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 ^\\E■u^'; 
 
 ^ifr. 
 
 ^OFCAllFOff^
 
 T R A V ELS 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 Germany, Bohemia, Hungary, 
 Switzerland, Italy, and Lorrain. 
 
 Giving a T R u E and Just 
 
 DESCRIPTI ON 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Present State of thofe Countries 5 
 
 THEIR 
 
 Natural, Literary, and Political HISTORY; Manners, Laws, 
 Commerce, Manufactures, Painting, Sculpture, ArchitecturEj 
 Coins, Antiquities, Curiosities of Art and Nature, &c. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED 
 
 With Cop p E r-Pl at e s, engraved from Drawings taken on the Spot. 
 
 By JOHN GEORGE KEYSLER, 
 
 Fellow of the Royal Society in London. 
 
 Carefully tranflated from the Second Edition of the German. 
 IN FOUR VOLUMES. 
 
 V O L. III. 
 THESECONDEDITION. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed for A. Linde, Bookfeller to her Royal Highnefs the Frincefs Dowager 
 
 of Wales, in Catherim-ftreet in the Strand; and T. Field, at \.\\g. Wheat-Jfjeaf^ 
 
 the Corner of Pater-Nofter-Roiv, Cheapfuie. 
 
 MDCCLVII.
 
 btack 
 Annex 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 O F T H E '^ 
 
 THIRD VOLUME. 
 
 LETTER LXI. 
 
 Journey from Ro7ne to LorettOy ■ Page i 
 
 LETTER LXIL 
 
 Defcription of Loretto, 23 
 
 LETTER LXIII. 
 
 Account of Ancona., and feveral kinds of Fiflies in the Adriatic Sea ; of 
 SenigaUia, Fa?io, Pefaro, Rimi?ii, the River Riibico?i ; alfo of the 
 towns of Cejena and Cervia, ■ ' ■■ 47 
 
 LETTER LXIV. 
 
 Account of Ravenna, Ferrara, Faenza, and Imola, 70 
 
 LETTER LXV. 
 
 Defcription of the City of Bologna, •■ 85 
 
 LETTER LXVL 
 
 Account of Modena and Reggio, • — 135 
 
 LETTER LXVII. 
 
 Obfervations on Parma and Placentia, 1 50 
 
 LETTER LXVIIL 
 
 Journey to Cremona and Mantua, • 1 64 
 
 LETTER LXIX. 
 Account of the City of ^tTOT^, 174 
 
 LETTER
 
 CONTENTS, 
 
 LETTER LXX. 
 
 Account of Ficcfiza, ■ Page 196 
 
 LETTER LXXr. 
 
 Of the City of Pddi/a, 202 
 
 LETTER LXXII. 
 
 Defcriptlon of the Country about Abano, Catajo, Bataglia, Arqiia., &c. 239 
 
 LETTER LXXIIL 
 
 Obfervations on the City of Venice ; with an Account of the Operas, 
 Carnaval, and other Diverfions in that City, 250 
 
 LETTER LXXIV. 
 
 Of the Doge, the Senate, the Nobility, the Inquifition, the Police, the 
 Ducal-Palace, the Piazza di S. Marco, or St. Mark's Place, the 
 Mint, the Public Library, the great Arfenal, and military Forces at 
 Venice, — 269 
 
 LETTER LXXV. 
 
 Of the Rialto, the German Fadlory, the moft remarkable Palaces and 
 Cabinets of Curiofities in the City of Venice; the Ifland of Mu- 
 rano, &c. — — 292 
 
 L E T T T R LXXVL 
 
 Of the Clergy, and the principal Churches of the Cxi)' of Venice, 303 
 
 LETTER LXXVIL 
 
 Journey from Ff/z/V? to Tr/^if, Fiume, Buccari, Porto Re, &cc. 353 
 
 LETTER LXXVIII. 
 An Account of fome remarkable Caverns in the Dutchy of Camiola ; 
 and of the Cirknitzerfee, • ' 367 
 
 LETTER LXXIX. 
 
 Defcription of the Quickfiver Mines at /rtV^, 375 
 
 
 TRAVELS
 
 
 T R A V E L S 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 Germany, Italy, Switzerland, ^c. 
 
 VOLUME THE THIRD. 
 
 LETTER LXL 
 
 Journey from Rome to Loretto. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 ^^^^^"^.N return! ng from Rome io Germaiiy, you fet out through 
 KS^^'SS the Porta Flumentana, formerly called Porta Flaminia ; and 
 SM^ ^ M)^ °" ^^^^ ''^^^' ^^ '^^ diftance of an Italian mile from Rotrje, 
 ^f^.^'^'P.fi lies the Poiite Molie, or Mihio, fo called, but corruptly, j] po^je 
 ^^^■^^^ from M. JEmil'na Scaiinis., who firft built this brido-e. Mollc 
 
 That the fpace betwixt this city and the Ponfe Mollc, in the time of 
 the ancient Romans was not built upon j and that Rome did not then ex- 
 tend itfelf beyond the prefent walls is manifeft both from its prefent appear- 
 ance (tor no traces of any ruins are to be feen here) and as it was the ground 
 on which Conjlantine the Great drew up his army in order of battle, 
 againft Maxeutius. On crofling the Tiber over Ponte Molle, the road to 
 Sienna and Florence (which was formerly called Via Ca/Jia) turns ofF to Via Caffia. 
 the left ; and the Via Flo7nima on the right leads to Anmi7mm, or Ri- ViaFlaminia. 
 mini, and again croffes the T/At by means of iliQ Ponte Felice, where Ponte Felice. 
 is to be feen the following infcription : 
 
 Vol. m. ■ B Sixtm
 
 From ROME. to LO RETTO. 
 
 Sixtus V. Pont. Max. 
 
 Ut commeantes trajeSfionis molejlid 
 
 Et veBigali fublevaret, 
 
 Pontem inchoavit 
 
 Ann. Sal MDLXXXIX. Pontif.fiii V. 
 
 ' For eafing travellers of the trouble and expence of ferrying over, 
 * his Holinefs Sixtus V. began this bridge in the year 1589, and the 
 ' fifth of his pontificate.' 
 
 This bridge was called Ponte Felice^ from the name that Pope alTumed 
 whilfl a monk. 
 
 Oppofite to the above infcription are thefe words : 
 
 Clemens VIII. Pontif. Max. 
 
 Pontem a Sixto V. Pont. Max. incceptiim 
 
 Opere magnifico abfolvit, 
 
 Aheo excavato T'iberini indiixit. 
 
 Anno Sal. MDCIIII. Pontif.fiii XIII. 
 
 ' This bridge, begun by pope Sixtus V. was magnificently compleated 
 ' by pope Cle?nentY\ll. and the Tiber brought under it by a channel which 
 ' he caufed to be made for it, in the year of our Lord 1604, and of his 
 ' pontificate the thirteenth. 
 
 Some hundred paces from thence, on the left-hand of the road, is a 
 fquare large flone, with this infcription : 
 
 VRBANVS VIII. PONT. MAX. 
 Tiber im via publico, everfa 
 Veterem repetentem aheunit 
 Novi efoj/ione 
 Ad dextram deduSiuniy 
 Aggeris objeSfti 
 Validdque compadl. lignoruni 
 Sub ponte:, quern declinabat, 
 Contimdt, 
 Confer'vatio?ii profpiciem 
 Peninfulam adjacentem 
 Attribuit, 
 Jnm Salutis MDCXXFIIL 
 Pontif fuifexto. 
 
 ' The
 
 Frrm RO M E to LO RETTO. 
 
 ' The 'Tiber having borne down the public road in its efforts to return 
 
 * to its ancient channel, was carried to the right, and by a new channel 
 
 * and a bank flrongly fenced with flakes, kept to its courfc under the 
 ' bridge, which it had left ; and, for the prefervation of it, the adjacent 
 
 * peninfula was added : fuch are the effedls of the liberality and pater- 
 
 * nal care of Urban VIII. A. D. 1628, and of his glorious pontifi- 
 
 * cate the fixth.' 
 
 At this bridge is the fifth ftage, after having pafled through Prima 
 Porta, Cajlel Nuovo, Rignano, Ci'vita Cajlellana, and Borghetto. 
 
 Betwixt Rignano and Civita CaJlcUana, on the right-hand, lies the 
 mountain St. Orejle, which fome hermits have chofen for their retreat, st. O.-efle. 
 It is alfo called Monte di S. Sihejiro, from the convent built there by 
 Charles the Great in honour of St. SiheJIer ; but its more ancient names 
 VfQvt Mo?ts Falifconim ^r\d SoraSfe. Poffibly a period unjudicioufly put 
 after the firfl letter of the latter, made it S. OraBe, which at laft gave 
 rife to the imaginary faint, Ore/le. In the fame manner, according to 
 the teflimony of Mahillon himfelf, St. Vianis was very near increafing 
 the number of faints, had it not been difcovered that the letters S. VIAR, 
 on which the (ticklers for Viarus% faintfliip relied, were no more than 
 the remains of the title PrafeSluS VIARunt "*, or furveyor of the high- 
 ways. 
 
 An account of the remarkable annual offering of the Tlirpii to Apollo 
 on mount SoraEle may be feen in Strabo, lib. v. Scrvius ad JEneid. lib. xi. 
 Pli?!. lib. vii. c. 2. and Soli^ms, c. 8. Varro fays, that the goats on this 
 mountain leaped from one rock to another at the diflance of lixty paces. 
 
 The village of Civita Cajlellana fiands upon a fleep hill, and is hy An- Civita Cartel- 
 tonio Majfa, who wrote a particular treatife de origine Falifcorum, thought '''"''• 
 to be the ancient Fefcennium, or capital of the Falifci. Its diflance 7-^^^/,„>„, 
 from Rome is about thirty-feven or thirty-eight //«//^Z7? miles; and the t'cCcenmum. 
 country about it is hilly, and not cultivated to the beft advantage. 
 
 On the bridge towards Otricoli is the following infcription : . 
 
 * The Roml/l) church hiftories abound with new faints, who owe their titles either td 
 ignorance or fraud. Witnefs St. Longinus., St. Veronica., and the eleven thoufand virgins. 
 The author, in his Jntiquitks, wilhes to fee a treatife de pia Pontificiorum vcl frande vel igno- 
 rantla in expluandis vetcrum inferiptionibus ; and he who will give himi'elf the trouble of gra- 
 tifying the public with fuch a work, will find fuflicicnt materials in Baronius, Allatiusy Ma- 
 billon., and o'Cazi Romijh hiftorians. 
 
 B a Clemens
 
 From ROME to LORE TTO. 
 
 Clemcm XL F. M. 
 Oppojitam agrorum partem 
 Ponte rara magnitudinis excitato 
 Civitati conjuiixit, 
 Vidque Flmninid intra muros perduSfii 
 Ac longiorh iti fieri s incommodo fuhlato, 
 Civium non minus quam cxteroriim utilitati 
 Conjuluity 
 "Jofcpbo Renato Card. Imperiali 
 Cong. Bon. Reg. PrcefeBo 
 Ciirante 
 Anno Sal. MDCCXII. Pont. XII. 
 
 Ruin: of 
 Ocrca. 
 
 ' This ftately bridge, which opens a communication between the city 
 
 * and the oppofite part of the country, was built by pope Clement XI. 
 
 * bv vvhofe munificence alfo the FUwiinian-w^y was brought within the 
 ' walls, to the great conveniency of the public, the road being thereby 
 
 * confiderably fhortened, &c. 171 2.* 
 
 On the left-hand, about an Italian mile from Otricoli, in the plain 
 adjoining to the Tiber, are ftill to be feen the ruins of the old Sabine 
 town Ocrea, or Ocriadum ; but they will not anfwer the trouble of turn- 
 ing out of the road to fee them. The modern Otricoli is a wretched 
 village ftanding on a mountain. 
 Remariahk Fivc Italian miles beyond Otricoli towards Cahi, the foil near the 
 chalky Lottom q'jij^f jg jo deep and marfhy, that the men who draw barges laden with 
 oil for Rome (ten or fourteen of which often tug at one barge) are 
 obliged to walk bare-footed ; and if it happens to rain, fuch a thick fog 
 is raifed, that they are not able to keep their eyes open to purfue their 
 journey, but are forced to come to an anchor. That the river Nero-, 
 which difcharges itfelf into the Tiber above Otricoli, runs along a chalky 
 bottom, is evident from the whitenefs of its waters, which is taken no- 
 tice of by Silius Italicus, lib. viii. and Martial ; but it is remarkable the 
 rain turns its water red *. 
 
 In the front of the pofthoufe at Otricoli is to be feen this old infcrip- 
 tion in honour of yidia Lucilia, &c. 
 
 * Pliny, Hi/l. Nat. lib. iii. c. 12. makes the water of the river Nar to be fulphureous ; 
 and Afartial, lib. vii. agrees with liim. Of the Vaclimon lake, v/hich lies in this neighbour- 
 hood, not far from the Tiber, mention has been already made, in defcribing the floating 
 iilands of Tivoli. 
 
 Julia,
 
 From RO M E to LO RETT 0. 5 
 
 "Julice, Lucilice, 
 
 L. yuli. 'Juliani. Fil. 
 
 Fati'oni. Municipi 
 
 Ciijus. Pater 
 
 Thermas. Ocriada- 
 
 nis. a. folo. extrn5las 
 
 Sua. pecunia. dona 
 
 vit. 
 
 Dec. Aug. Plebs 
 
 L. D. D. D. 
 
 Betwixt this place and Narni the country exhibits fome charming 
 profpedls, efpecially towards Porcaria, or Portaria (as it is termed in an Porcarla. 
 infcription over the gate) which lies on the fide of a hill. Near the 
 Ponte Sanchonaro, a little beyond it, is an infcription on a flone, com- 
 memorating the liberality of Gregory XIII. by whom this road was re- 
 paired. From hence the road runs through a very flony and mountain- 
 ous country, with very deep precipices on the left-hand ; but it is broad, 
 and kept in good repair. On the i'ummit of a hill are fome fuppofititious 
 monuments of an ancient giant, called Orlando; and among them ol Ca^em of ihe 
 huge flone, faid to be his chair, and a cavern in which he lived. The ^"."'Oilando, 
 cavern is very mean, pardy hewn out of a rock, and partly built of flint '""^-/'^'^'^>'- 
 and mortar; and in fome places the water drops through. It is alfo 
 called Antrum Sibylla, or the Sibyl's cave. In the rock on one fide of 
 the cave is an impreflion, as is pretended, of a horfe's foot, but done 
 by a bungling carver. Near it is a deep hole in the earth, which in 
 heavy rains is faid to emit fmoke, or fleam. 
 
 Narni is a very poor town ; but as it flands high, the profpedl of the Nami. 
 vale below, reaching as far as Terni, is extremely pleafant. The name 
 of this town was formerly Neqiii7ium, which was fo called on account 
 of the obflinacy of the inhabitants; who being befieged, firft killed their 
 wives and children, to huftand what provifions they had ; and when 
 thefe were confumed, chofe rather to lay violent hands on thtmfelves 
 than furrender. Others derive this name from the badnefs of the roads 
 near this town. But notwithftanding its prefent mean condition, it prides 
 itfelf not a little in having been the birth-place of the emperor Nerva, pope 
 yohn XIII. the Venetian general Gattamelcta, cardinal Ce'\ and othei- famous 
 men. But cardinal Sacripanti ^Qt% it no great honour. Here are iVme good 
 fprings, and a fine aquedud;, which conveys the water about filteen Ita- 
 lian.
 
 6 From ROME to LO RETTO. 
 
 I'lan miles. In the epifcopal church, the high altar, and the flairs by 
 which one defends into St. "Juvenal'^ chapel are worth feeing, 
 
 McientbriMge. But above all the reft, the ruins of the noble bridge built hy Augu/ltis 
 over the Nera, deferves particular notice. It lies on the left-hand juft 
 below the city, and the only way to it is down a very difficult defcent; 
 but no perfon who has a tafte for antiquity will grudge the trouble. By 
 this bridge two mountains on the oppofite fides of the river, were joined, 
 for the conveniency of making a road to Perugia. It was built with 
 
 „ large fquare pieces of freeftone inferted without cement or iron braces j 
 
 the outlides of which are cut like diamonds. The piers ftill to be feen 
 in the water, give a very grand idea of the arches ; which however were 
 not all of an equal diameter. Near the foot of the bridge is a hole faid to 
 be of fuch a depth, that by means of a fubterraneous paflage under the 
 Nera one might crofs to the other fide of the river. On the Narni fide, 
 and on dry ground, one entire arch, of a very extraordinary height, is ftill 
 remaining, which is above forty paces wide. MartineUi in his Dejcriti- 
 cne de diverfi ponti ejjiflenti fopra il fiumi Nera e T'evere has given a parti- 
 cular defcription of this bridge ; and according to his computation the 
 length of it was eight hundred and fifty pahni, or fix hundred and thirty- 
 feven Roman feet and a half*. The diftance betwixt the piers of the 
 firft arch, which are ftill to be feen, is a hundred palmi ; and the height 
 of the arch is a hundred and fifty palmi. The diftance betwixt the piers 
 ■of the fecond arch was a hundred and eight palmi, that of the third a 
 hundred and fifty, and the laft arch on the other fide of the Nera was a 
 hundred and ninety palmi, or a hundred and forty-two Roman feet and a 
 half. This arch, however, comes fliort of the Ponte Rialto, and other 
 arches to be feen at prefent in Europe. Martial, Epigr. lib. vii. fpeaks 
 of the bridge at Narni in the following manner : 
 
 Sed jam parce mihi, nee abutere, Narnia, ^i?ito, 
 Perpetuo liceat fie tibi ponte frui I 
 
 ' Preferve my ^intus, Narni, from all harm, 
 * So may thy noble bridge withftand the fhock 
 ' Of all devouring time !' 
 
 The moft convenient way for feeing this bridge is to let the carriage 
 wait in the road to Tt;;//, whilft one is getting down the fteep defcent 
 mentioned above, which faves the trouble of climbing up the hill with 
 the chaife. The Nera, which at a fmall diftance from hence falls into 
 the Tiber near Guafianello, abounds in tenches, mullets, eels, trouts, and 
 
 The Raman foot, according to Mentfaucon, is equal to eleven Paris inches. 
 
 Other
 
 From RO ME to LO RErrO. 7 
 
 other kinds of delicate fifli. Terni lies feven Italian from Narni ; and Teml. 
 
 the road runs along a hn^ valley, efpecially that part of it betwixt Cejfa 
 
 and Colle Scipoli (a corruption of Collis Scipionis) is quite charming. The coiiis Sciri- 
 
 fields are planted with rows of trees, and very large and fprcading vines oni^- 
 
 interwoven with their branches. Amongft other kinds here is a fort of 
 
 vine which hears fmall grapes without any ftones in them. Thefe are 
 
 called Uva Pajfa * or Pajfarina, and are much ufed in fauces. They are Uva Paja. 
 
 alfo fraudulently mixed with the currants of the Levant, which they very 
 
 much refemble both in tafte and appearance. Thefe parts alfo abound 
 
 in olive-trees and fig-trees. According to Pli?iy [lib. xviii. c. 28.) the 
 
 meadows about T'erni, even thofe which could not be watered were 
 
 mowed four times in a year : and in the lefs fertile parts where they had 
 
 three crops of hay, very rich pafture remained for the cattle. Txxxnc^s, Large tumeps, 
 
 are here oi fuch an uncommon fize as fometimes to weigh thirty or forty 
 
 pounds -|-; they feem to thrive befl in ftony ground. The feeds of thefe 
 
 turneps however do not produce fuch roots in other countries ; not even 
 
 in the Milaneje, where the foil is remarkably fertile. The melons, 
 
 peaches, figs, and other fruits that grow about Narni are much larger 
 
 than in other places j it being nothing uncommon here to fee peaches 
 
 weighing from fifteen to eighteen ounces. 
 
 l'er?ii was anciently called Interamna from its fituation between the Interamna. 
 two channels of the Nera. It was the birth-place of Cornelius Tacitus 
 the famous hiftorian, and of the emperors Tacitus and Florianus. On one 
 fide of the market-place, near the entrance of the feminary, are fome 
 ancient infcriptions relating to the old Interamna. Over the market 
 clock is this moral verfe : 
 
 Hora, dies, & vitafugif, manet iinica Virtus. 
 
 ' Hours, days, and ages fly away, 
 ' Virtue alone knows no decay.* 
 
 On a fmall pyramid that ftands over the fountain in the market-place^ 
 is the following infcription : 
 
 * The name of Uva Paffj is not derived from Pat'ientla, as PUny woulJ intimate, (lib. 
 xiv. c. I.) but rather from their drynefs ; for they feem to be, as it were, trodden to- 
 gether aTuSfio-o. , or a pande7ido, i. e. being expofed to the air and fun, &c. 
 
 t .WhatP/zwj, fays [Hi/I. Nat. lib. viii. c. 13.) of his having feen turneps of above forty 
 pounds weight, is therefore the lefs to be queftioned. 
 
 Aqiiarum
 
 8 From ROME to LO RETT 0, 
 
 Aquariim delicias 
 
 ^asfiio mirabatur in agro, 
 
 Et fitiebat in gremio 
 
 Interamna, 
 
 Inclytce Patrice commodis 
 
 Comes Antonius Majiajfe, 
 
 Rques SatiSii Michaelis, 
 
 De Dnis. Caflri. Copparum Condnus 
 
 1'errar. Ccelejlat. & Turris Urfma 
 
 Suo cere ingenioque adduxit. 
 
 Marco ButagVmo Guhernat. 
 
 MDCLXXXIII. 
 
 ' Thefe refrefliing waters which Terni admired in its territory, and 
 
 * wifhed to receive within its bofom, were, to the infinite benefit of our 
 ' illuftrious country, and at the expence, and by the fkill of count An- 
 ' tonio ManaJJ'e, knight of St. Michael, &c, brought hither under the in- 
 
 * fpedtion oi Marco Butaglino in the year 1683.' 
 
 But the fountain on which this encomium was made does not yield 
 any water, which gave occafion to the following verfe : 
 
 O ^'«", che qui trovare aqua penfate, 
 Se non piove dal del, non Fajpettate. 
 
 ' Whoever hopes to find water here will be difappointed, unlefs 
 * Heaven be kindly pleafed to fend fome rain.' 
 
 After the example of feveral other cities in Italy, pretending to a 
 greater antiquity than Rome, the inhabitants oi Terni are extremely infa- 
 tuated with this frivolous pretenfion ; which however is confuted by an 
 infcription of their own. It is to be feen on the wall of the portico be- 
 longing to thefeminary ; where it isexprefly faid, that this city [Iteram}!a\ 
 in the confulfhip of Cn. Domitiamis Mmbarhin and M, Camilhis Scriboni- 
 anus (which was in the itven hundred and thirty-fourth year from 
 the building of Rome) had exifted feven hundred and four years. This 
 ancient infcription is as follows : 
 
 Saluti
 
 From ROME to LO R ETTO. 
 
 Saluii perpeiua Aiiguftc^ libertatique public a; Populi Romani, Genio Mu- 
 nkipti Anno poft Interamnam condiUim DCCIIII. ad Cn. Dotfiitianum JEno- 
 
 barbmn Cojf. Providcntice Tib. Ccejarts Augufti nati ad 
 
 aternitalem Romani nojnitiisjiiblato hofte perniciofi/Jimo P. R. Fauftus Titius 
 Liberalis VI. Fir. Aug. iter. P. S. F. C. i. e. iteriim pecuniafuafieri cu- 
 ravit. 
 
 This monument very probably was a flattering compliment paid to Ti- 
 berius, after he had got rid of Sejanus. To this may be added another 
 infcription relating to the antiquity of this place, were there any certainty 
 of its authenticity, or at leaft that it was not quite modern. It flands in 
 the cathedral, and is exprefled in the following words : 
 
 Interamna anno ante Chrijlum DCLXXI. 
 condita vive?ite Pompilio. 
 
 * Inter omiia was built in the year 671 before Chrift, whilft Pompilius 
 ' was living.' 
 
 Over the Spoletto gate are the following lines : 
 
 Porta, quam, Viator, ingredcris, tj'iuni fnonumentorum diSfa, 
 Ob propinqua ajiuminibm disjeSia monunmita^ 
 C. Cornelii Tacit i PoUticorum Principis, 
 Tacitique & Floriani Imperatorum hujus Urbis civium. 
 Nunc in honorem facratijjimce Laureti domiis, 
 ^10 revert ent em te ducit, Lauretana 7iimcupatay 
 Aditum prabet fpedlanti hiteramnam, 
 PrcBjlantiJjimum Italic^ muiiicipiiwi, 
 Patriam illiiis Claiidii Neronis, qui ad Metaurumjluviwn 
 
 Collatis cum Afdrubalejigjiis, 
 
 IJiius internecione & exercitus oSloginta Poe7i07-im milliu?n 
 
 Afinibalem ex Italia expulit, 
 
 Carthagincnfetn Rempublicajn concuj/it, 
 
 Romafiam periclitantetn cojijlabiliity 
 
 Et plures Cafares t err arum Orbi dedit. 
 
 Ad perennitatem glories hujus 7nunicipii^ 
 
 Tatitorum Heroutn progenitoris 
 
 Interamnenfes Nahartes banc memoriatn apponi curdrunt 
 
 Anno Dni. MDCLXXXIX. 
 
 Vol. III. C t Traveller
 
 iidarac: of 
 the V'clino. 
 
 lo From ROME to LORE TTO, 
 
 • Traveller, the gate which thou entereft, formerly called the gate of 
 ' the three monuments (on account of the monuments oi Cornelius Ta- 
 
 * citus the prince of politicians, and the emperors Tacitus and Florianus 
 
 * natives of this town, that once flood near it) but long fince ruined by 
 ' inundations, now in honour of the holy houfe oi Loretto, to which it 
 ' diredls thee as thou goeft out of the town, is called the gate of Lo- 
 ' rettOy and opens an accefs to thee coming towards Tenii the moft enii- 
 ' nent free town of Italy, the native place of Claudius Nero, that illuf- 
 ' trious warrior, who in the battle with Afd^-ubal near the river Metaro, 
 ' flew him and defeated his army, confifting of eighty thoufand Cartha- 
 ' ginians ; AxovtHa?mibal o\x\. oi Italy, fliook t\i& Carthaginian ftate, and 
 ' retrieved the Roman commonwealth ; from whom alfo defcended fe- 
 
 * veral emperors. To perpetuate the glory of this borough, the nur- 
 
 * fery of fuch diftinguiflied heroes, the magiftracy of Interamna or Ternt 
 ' have erected this monument in the year of Chrift 1689.' 
 
 Tra^i. The greatefl: trade of this place is in oil, and wine of a mofl: delicious 
 
 flavour. 
 
 Remarkdle A traveller fhould not omit befl:owing three or four hours to fee the 
 cafcade formed by the Velino, about four Italian miles eafl:ward of Terni. 
 As the road is impradicable for carriages, this excurfion mufl: be made 
 on horfeback : four paoli * is the ufual hire for each horfe. The road 
 is not only very bad up the acclivity of the mountain, but by its narrow- 
 nefs and the fteep precipices on the left-hand is fo dangerous, that in 
 fome places it is advifable to alight and lead the horfe. The fource of 
 the river Feli7w lies among the Appenine mountains near Civita Reah\ 
 about fifteen or fixteen miles from Terni ; and this river, after pafling 
 by Anterdcco, Citta Ducale and the Lago di Rieti, which has a commu- 
 nication with the Lago di Pie di Luco, empties itfelf into the Lago delle 
 Marmore ; the latter alfo joins with the Lago di Cor delle Fratte. Some 
 are inclined to think that the Velino after running through the Lago delle 
 Martnore, formerly inclined its courfe more to the left than it does at 
 prefent, and that its channel was in the valley below : but as the caf- 
 cade extended itfelf fo far as to be dangerous to the inhabitants of 
 Terni, there v/as a neceflity of altering its courfe and carrying it on the 
 right towards a fteep precipice inclofed within rocks, where its violence 
 would be more eafily broken. 
 
 A«>»/ Lacus As to the ancient iituation of the Lacus Velini, and the courfe of the 
 
 Vdim. j.jy.gj. running from it, they cannot be traced out with any certainty. 
 
 Cicero (lib.'iv. epift. 15. ad Atticum) mentions a complaint of the 2?r«- 
 
 » About two Ihillixigs, 
 
 tini
 
 From ROME to L R E TTO. ii 
 
 ijni againfl: the Inter amnatcsy who had diverted the cour/e of this river. 
 His words are, Reatini tne ad Jua T-^y^n diixerimt, nt agerem cciufam con- 
 tra Interaninates apud Cof. & decern kgatos, quod laciis yelinits a M. Curio 
 emijfus, intercifo monte in Nar dcfuxit : ex quo eji villa ficcata, & bumida 
 tamen modicc rofea. ' The Reatiyii led me to their T£,a7r/i, or meadows, 
 ' that I might plead their caufe before the confuls and the ten com- 
 ' miffioners againfl the Interaninates, becaufe the Lacus Velinus had been 
 
 * diverted from its courfe by M. Curius, and by piercing through a moun- 
 ' tain, made to run into the Nar ; fo that their town labours under a 
 
 * fcarcity of water, &c' Varro alfo mentions this diverting the courfe 
 of the river. On what the complaint againfl the Interamnates was 
 grounded, I do not readily conceive ; efpecially as Marcus Curius Den- 
 tatus, who had carried on bloody wars in thofe parts, was conful of 
 Rome in the year 463 from the building of the city ; fo that this altera- 
 tion mufl have been made above two hundred years before Cicero wrote 
 this letter. Befides, Servius fays, that the fertility of that country was 
 greatly increafed by altering the courfe of the Felino ; and Virgil repre- 
 fents it as a very extraordinary improvement : 
 
 Et quantum longis carpcnt anncnta dicbus 
 Exigua tantum gelidus ros no£ie reponet. 
 
 ViRG. Georg. ii. "O. 201. 
 
 * For what the day devours, the nightly dew 
 
 * Shall to the morn in pearly drops renew.' Dryden: 
 
 The lall words of the pafTage of Cicero quoted above are fomething 
 obfcure. Rofeus is often put for rojcidus ; and Servius fays, that the 
 country about Reate was called Ager Rofidanus. Virgih Rofea rura Ve- 
 lini. See. mufl alfo relate to thefe parts : but I do not think that Dentafus 
 •altered the courfe of the Felino ; Cicero fpeaking only of the interfec- 
 tion of a mountain, which has nothing to do with the fall of the VeUno 
 down a precipice into the valley. Befides, this work is fo far from di- 
 verting the flream from the inhabitants of Terni, that it brought it nearer 
 to them. It is farther to be confidered, that (as Tacitus writes, Annal. 
 lib. i. c. 79.) the i?az;/;/z petitioned Tiberius againfl damming up the in- 
 flux of the lake Velino into the Nar, which was then under deliberation, 
 as it would infallibly overflow all the adjacent country. Had this cafcade, 
 where the flream precipitates itfelf into the valley, been then flopt, no 
 detriment could have happened to the high country of the Reatini from 
 the obflrudion of its communication with the Nar. On the contrary, 
 the Interamnatesy or inhabitants of Terni^ towards which the flream, af- 
 
 C 2 ter
 
 12 ■ From RO M E 10 LO RErrO. 
 
 ter fallino- down from the rock, profccutcs its courfe along a deep valley, 
 muft have been expofed to the impetuofity of the water, and confe- 
 quently were filled with apprehcnfions at the projedled alteration ; but it 
 feems all their folicitude was, that the Nar might not be divided into 
 fmall flreams, as their vale would, by that means, be more fubje6l to 
 inundations. Had this cafcade, which is now viewed with fuch aftonifli- 
 ment, exifted in the days of Cicero, it muft feem ftrange that no men- 
 tion of fuch a catarad occurs in that author, or any other ancient writer. 
 Pliny, lib. ii. Hi/l.Nat. c. 62. fpeaking of the particular qualities of the 
 air in different climates, fays, rofcidas cejlate Africa nocles, in Italia Lo~ 
 cris (3 in lacu Velino nuUo non die apparere arcus. ' That the fummer nights 
 ' in Africa are attended with copious dews ; and in Italy, at Locri and 
 ' the lake Velino, a rainbow appears every day.' And though he takes 
 notice here of the rainbow daily formed over the lake Velino, poffibly by 
 the exhalations, yet he is entirely filent throughout his works with re- 
 gard to this remarkable catarafl. The river Nar is not a great way from 
 the Velitw j hence Virgil places them together ; 
 
 Audiit & longe Trivice lacus aiidiit amnis 
 Sulphured Nar albus aqua, fontejque Velini. 
 
 ViRG. -/En. vii. V. 516. 
 
 • The facred lake of Trivia from afar, 1 
 
 The Veline fountains, and fulphureous Nar, > 
 
 Shake at the baleful blaft, the fignal of the war. J 
 
 Dryden. 
 
 < 
 
 Claudian, in his poem on Honorius, when the emperor quits the com- 
 mon road to take a view of the river Nar, does not make the leaft men- 
 tion of the fall of the Velino ; though fuch a work deferved a monarch's 
 attention, and naturally offered to the poet a very entertaining pidure for 
 the embelliftiment of his poem. Some writers, indeed, imagine to have 
 difcovered a defcription of this cafcade in the feventh Mneid, v. 563, 
 where Virgil defcribes the gulf through which the fury Aledlo, after fuc- 
 ^eeding in her deteftable expedition, plunges into the infernal fhades : 
 
 Eji_
 
 From ROME to LORE r TO. 13 
 
 RJl hem Italic^ in medio fub moniibm altis, 
 Nobilis, ^ jama muliis meinoratia in oris, 
 AmfanSli valla : Dmfn bine frondi bus aU'ian 
 XJrget iitrumque latus nemoris, mcdiogiie fragofus 
 Dat fonitiim Jaxis, & tor to vert ice torrcns. 6cc. 
 
 ' Amid fair Italy, renown'd by fame, 
 
 * Lies a deep vale, ylmJmSliis is the name. 
 ' Its gloomy fides are fliaded with a grove, 
 
 ' And a huge range of mountains tow'rs above : 
 
 ' Fierce thro' the dufky vale the torrents pour, 
 
 ' And o'er its rocky bed the whirlpool's roar. Pitt. 
 
 In fupport of this conjedlure it is farther alledged, that, accordino- to 
 
 the teftimony of Solinus, Varro places the diftridl of Rente fo near the 
 
 middle oi Italy, that he ftiles it the Umbilicus, or Navel of it: but what 
 
 'Virgil adds in the following lines by no means agrees with the cafcade of 
 
 Velino : 
 
 Hicfpecus horrendum, fcevi fpiracula Ditis 
 Mon/lratur, ruptoqiie ifigens Acheronte vorago 
 Pejliferas aperit fauces - - - 
 
 * There the black jaws of hell are open'd wide;, 
 ' There rolls dire Acheron his baleful tide ; 
 
 * There lies the dark infernal cave, and there 
 
 ' Pluto's abodes inhale refrefhing air.' Pitt. 
 
 The poet's defcription may, according to the opinion of Servius, in 
 his notes on this paffage, be more juftly applied to a fpot near the Via 
 Flaminia, not far from mount Sora5le, where there are ponds of a fulphu- 
 reous water, and a cavern which emits a very noxious vapour. 
 
 The mountain which the Velino croffes before it falls from the pre- 
 cipice is indeed, with regard to the country about Terni, exceeding 
 high ; but is inclofed on both fides with rocks that are ftill higher. As 
 the country hereabouts is upon the defcent, the rapidity of the Velino is 
 increafed after it has pafi'ed the Lago delle Marmore. This cataradl con- 
 fifts of three cafcades, one above another, and the lowed feems to be 
 near two hundred feet. Nature has, on the left of it, prepared a nar- 
 row place like a promontory, in the form of a crefcent, where the fpec- 
 tator may have a full view of the principal cafcade. I own I differ from 
 thofe who affirm this cafcade to be three hundred feet high ; yet this is. 
 
 certain,.
 
 14 From ROME to LO RE^ITO. 
 
 certain, that one cannot, without a kind of pleafing horror, hear * the 
 roaring noile caufed by the impetuous fall of the water, which imme- 
 diately, even before it reaches the bottom, is converted into a white 
 Iroth ; and dadnng againft the rocks at the bottom, caufes a thick mift, 
 like a cloud of fmoke, to rife, which, in a clear funfliine, exhibits a 
 moft beautiful rainbow. What has induced fome travellers to atlirm, 
 that this mifl of watery particles afcends twice the height of the fall, lean- 
 not fay } nor {Irall I venture to determine whether the name oi Lams Ve- 
 Ihiiy mentioned by Pliny and others, properly belongs to the Lago delle 
 Marmore, or Lago di Cor delle Fratte, or Lago di Fie di Luco. According 
 to the general opinion, the lituation of the Liictis, or facred grove, and 
 of the temple of Veliiiia, correfponds with that of the little town of Fie 
 di Luco, together with the lake of that name. This is alfo the opinion 
 of Vari'o ; but the cataradl derives its name from the firfl mentioned 
 lake, and is called Cafcata delle Marmore. 
 Remarkable In the year 1543, one Fietro Terenatico had a very providential efcape 
 ■efia^e. here. He was carried down the precipice by the force of the current,- 
 
 and yet was taken out without the leaft hurt. As he attributed his fafety 
 to the afliftance of the holy virgin oi Loretto-, the flory, with all its cir- 
 cumftances, is tranfmitted to pofterity, being infcribed on marble at 
 Loretto in the following words : 
 
 Ego Fetnis Terennatiais, Eqties & Marefcallus eqtiitatus Duels Cajlro- 
 rum, & cateri equites ex Piceno ad "oicmn Varronis proficifcentes, cum Nonis 
 Marti i MDXLIIL ad Velinum lacum per'venijj'emiis, G* duo alii milites, 
 'Tiberius ex Gravifcis, & ^ntoftius Cortonenjis a cceteris equitibus difcejjimus, 
 ut ilium viferemus locinn., quo fe Velinus in Nar prcecipitat. Ac nonprocul 
 inde, cum eqicum adaquare?n, ego una cum equo in quajdam jlumims angujlias 
 ijicidi, ex 'quibus pracipitem altij/imo cafu, circiter videlicet cetittim cubitos 
 altum, & Deipar^ Virginis Lauretance opem implcrantem, quidam me fco- 
 pulus excepit incolumem, G? rei miraculo admirabundum atque attonitum. 
 '^luapropter illico votum perfolvi Beatijimce Virgini, quam turn prcejentem 
 propitianique fufu expertus, tejtibus oculatis duobus Centurionibus Chiancio 
 Urbeveta?io, & Raimundo cwn univerfa equitum ala. 
 
 * Seneca writes thus of a catara£l in the Nile, Vb'i fcopulos verberavit, fputnat : £3* //// non 
 ex tiatura fua, fed ex injuria loci color eji. Tandemquc eluclatus objiantia, in vajlam altitudinem 
 fubito dejiitutus cadit cum ingcnti circumjacentium rcgionum Jirepitu. ' The water falls with 
 ' fuch impetuofity againft the rocks, that it raifes a froth ; but this colour is not natural, 
 ' but owing to the cragginefs of the rock. At laft, having made its way through every 
 ' impediment in its courfe, it is at once precipitated from fuch a vail height, that all the 
 "* neighbouring country echoes with the noife of its fall.' 
 
 ' I Fetro
 
 From R ME to LORE TTO. 15 
 
 ' I Pefro Terennatico, captain in the duke o^ Caflrds regiment of Iiorfe, 
 
 ' being on a march from Piceno to the town of Varro, came to the Ve- 
 
 * lino on the 4th of March, 1543, with my troops: Tiberio Graviji, 
 ' Antonio da Cortona, and myfelf leaving the reft of the regiment, went 
 
 * up to take a view of the place where the Fclino falls down a high pre- 
 
 * cipice into the At?;-. But as I was watering my horfe at a fmall diftance 
 ' from the cafcade, myfelf and horfe, by the force of the current in a 
 ' narrow part of the river, were carried down the precipice to the depth 
 ' of a hundred cubits. In the extremity of my danger, as I implored 
 
 * the help of the virgin mother of God of Loretto, I fell without the 
 
 * leaft hurt upon a rock, quite aftonirtied at my miraculous prefervation, 
 
 * Wherefore, in gratitude to the propitious prefence and protection of 
 ' the moil blefled Virgin, which 1 then experienced, I hereby difcharge 
 
 * the vow I then made in the prefence of the captains Chiancio Urbevetano 
 
 * and Raitnundo, with the reft of the regiment.' 
 
 The Feli no, after this fall from the rock, runs into the N'era or Nar 
 near Terni, where it lofes its name. 
 
 II Mont-Eolo lies on the other fide of T^erni, fix or feven Italian miles II Mont-Eolo. 
 from that town, and is noted for the cool air, which, in fummer-time, 
 •proceeds from the clefts and cavities of this mountain. Miffbn tells us, 
 that the inhabitants of the little town of CeJJi, convey the air through 
 pipes into their houfes and wine-cellars. 
 
 The road from I^erni to Spoletto is extremely pleafant, being planted on 
 both fides with olive and other fruit-trees, as far as the Monte di Somma, 
 which in rainy or fnowy weather is very flippery and difficult to be 
 crofTed. 
 
 Spoletto ftands on a fteep aclivity, and makes but a mean figure ; yet, Spolettoj. 
 like other paultry towns in Italy, exhibits bombaftic infcriptions con- 
 cerning its antiquity, and many trivial occurrences which have happened 
 there. 
 
 One of the gates of this town derives its name from Annibal, the Car- 
 thaginian general, and on it is the following infcription : 
 
 r. r £f ^^^^^ ^«/->"- 
 
 Ccejis ad Tkrafy?}2enum Roma?ns o'ver J.-; Porta. 
 
 Urbem Ro7na?n infenfo agmiite petens, d'Anmbaie. 
 
 Spoleto magna fuoriim clade repulfus, 
 
 Injigni fugd portce fiomen fecit. 
 
 ' Annibal, after defeating the Romans at Thrafymene, marching his 
 
 * army towards Rome, was driven from Spoletto with great flaughter, and 
 ' his flight on that occafion gave name to this gate.' 
 
 In.
 
 i6 From R M E io L R E TT 0. 
 
 Caikdral. In the cathcdr?.! are foine paintings by Filippo Lippi Carlni^ which, 
 
 after that artift had been poifoned out of envy in the year 143H, were 
 finiflied by his alliftant, one Diamante^ a monk. He lies buried in the 
 church, and has a marble bufto and an epitaph erefted to his memory. 
 
 Oppofite to this bufto is the monument of Giov. Francejco Ur/ini, 
 adorned with beautiful bajjo-relievds. And over the main entrance of 
 the church is to be feen the virgin Mary, with fome of the difciples, in 
 ancient mofaic-work. 
 Cajlk. The caftle of Spcktto lies on an eminence, and is joined to the city by 
 
 a bridge. From a mountain lying over-againft the cattle, which takes 
 its name from St. Francis, the water is conveyed by an aquedudl into 
 the town. The canal, or aquedudl, is a beautiful work, confifting of 
 ten frecftone arches, narrow indeed, but in the middle, on account of 
 the depth of the valley, it is fupported by a double arcade, the whole 
 height of which is between four and five hundred feet; but Mijfon 
 makes it ftiU higher. 
 Fojfiie 'v.-ood. Round Spoletto, and alfo about Vmbria, is found a foffile wood, which 
 is dug up in a chalky foil ; it is porous like other wood, and burns to 
 a coal. This is entirely different from a wood growing in fome parts 
 of Italy, which is not confumed after being red-hot for feveral hours. 
 The beft burning-glafles, which caufe a fufion even in iroh and ftone, 
 make very little impreffion on this wood ; nor does it lofe either colour 
 or weight in the fire. The grain of this wood is not unlike that of oak ; 
 I but it is fomething fofter, and of a reddifh colour. It grows foft and 
 
 brittle after having been often in the fire, and is fpecifically heavier than 
 water, the fmalleft bits of it finking to the bottom. Vitruvius, lib. ii. 
 c. 9. attributes a like fpecific gravity and incombuftibility to the larix, 
 which grows about the Po and the Adriatic-kz : and adds, that Julius 
 Co'Jar fet on fire a town built of this wood on the Alps ; which, how- 
 ever, was not confumed. Pliny *, who clafies this tree among the 
 fpecies of pine and fir-trees, afcribes the like qualities to it. I fhall en- 
 rich your colledlion of natural curiofities with a piece of this incom- 
 buftible wood. Some of it has been found in Andalufia, near Seville •{-. 
 The lifium ajbejltwi found in T^ranfyhania and other parts ; and of which 
 incombuftible paper and linen are made, is a flone, and differs fpecifically 
 from the above-mentioned wood. 
 Fine country. FroHi Spokfto the road lies through a moft delightful valley, much re- 
 fembling the country between Pija and Florence. There is a moft en- 
 
 * Hiji. Nat. lib. xvi. c. lO. Excepta hrke, qua nee ardet, nee carbonem fach, nee alio modi 
 ignis vi confumitiir, qvam lapides. ' Except the larix, which never flames, nor burns to a 
 ' coal ; nor is any more confumed by the force of the fire than ftones are.' 
 
 t Vide Clerc Bibliotheque Choifie, torn. xii. p. 57. 
 
 chanting
 
 From ROME to LO R E TTO. 17 
 
 t^antlng profpedl from the temple of Clitumniis, which lies two or three Temph ofOXi. 
 
 hundred paces from the firft ftage on this road, which is called la Vene. '"'"""2' 
 
 This temple has been converted into a Chrijiian chapel, under the title 
 
 of St. Salvadore. The front towards the plain makes a fuperb appearance, 
 
 being adorned with fix Corinthian pillars; two of which are covered with 
 
 a foliage of laurel-leaves, two twifted, and the other two fquare and 
 
 fluted. On the frize are thefe words : 
 
 •f* 5C5 Hens Angehrum., qui fecit refurrediionem. 
 
 ' The moft holy God, and king of angels, the author of the refur- 
 * redion.' 
 
 On the right-hand, the architrave of the pillars with foliages exhibits 
 this imperfedt infcription : 
 
 Ics DEVS APosro 
 
 -SIONEM. 
 
 On the left-hand : 
 
 SCS Deus Profefarum qui fecit redemptionem. 
 
 * The moft holy God of the prophets, the author of redemption.' 
 
 This edifice is oblong, and on the roof are the following words cut in 
 ilone : 
 
 T. Septimus Plebeius. 
 
 On the fide towards the road is a crucifix, with vine-branches twifted 
 about it, in bajfo-relievo. 
 
 This edifice having fo few marks of paganifm, and on the contrary fo 
 many figns of Chriftianity, the moft probable conjedure is, that this 
 chapel was built out of the ruins of a pagan temple; but whether this 
 temple was confecrated to Clitummis is another queftion, and not a little 
 dubious : for Pliny * places that temple near the fource of the river Cli~ 
 
 * Lib. v'\n. ep. 8. Fans adhisc, i^ jam amplijpmum Jlumen atque etiam navium patiens, qitas 
 ehvfas quoque y contrar'to n'lfu m diverfa icndnitis, iranfrnittit bf perfcrt : adeo validus, ut ilia, 
 qua properat ipfe, quanqiiam per fdmn planum, remis non adjuventur : idem cegerrime remis con- 
 tifque fiiperetur adverfus. - - - Rigor aqucs certaverit nivibus, nee color cedit. ' Here it ap- 
 ' pears a fountain, and there immediately a very noble river, fit even to receive large veflels, 
 
 * that pafs backwards and forwards, according as they ere bound, one way or another ; 
 » the current is fo iirong, that while the boat glides with the ftream there is no neceflity 
 
 * for oars ; all is even as plain ground : but oars and poles are fcarce fufficient in returning 
 
 * againft the ftream, - - - The water is as cold as fnow, and the colour of it is as white.' 
 
 Vol. III. D tumnus
 
 i8 From ROME to LO RETTO. 
 
 timm/s, juft on the fpot where the river became navigable ; which is not 
 the cafe here. This Icruple is farther countenanced by what Suetonius fays, 
 chap. 43. in the hfe of Caligula, namely, that this emperor went xoMe^a- 
 nia to fee the temple of Clilumnus, and the confecrated grove. Now 
 Mtvania is unqueflionably the prefent little town of Bevagna, fituated 
 on the weft-fide of the Titiia, or Timia., at the influx of the rivers Ta~ 
 carcna and Rucciatio into the Clitumiius, which anciently might have re- 
 tained that name as far as the7o/»/;zo*. But one of the many fmall chapels 
 which Pli?iy places in this neighbourhood may have flood on this fpot ; 
 efpecially as but a few paces from it there is an excellent fpring, which 
 illuftrates the palTage of Pliny quoted in the note-j-. Obferving an in- 
 fcriptien on freeftone in the bottom of this little fpring, I perfuaded 
 feme of the peafants to take it up, and found on it thcfe imperfect 
 words : 
 
 r. TFGALL 
 
 X FIRO FE . . lEIS 
 
 Notions ojt the No fooncf had I read thefe words, than the peafants afked me where 
 Italians con- they fliould begin to dig ; and upon my enquiring of them the caufe of 
 "nalurel "" ^^^h a queftioH, they very eagerly anfwered, Per troiiare i denari ; 
 i. e. ' To come at the pence -,' for they expected that I was now 
 thoroughly informed where the treafure, which they were perfuaded lay 
 burled in the old temple or near it, was to be fearched for. The com- 
 mon people all over Italy are ftrongly pofleffed with the notion that trea- 
 fures are concealed in every part ot the country ; and if curiofity detains 
 a ftranger any confiderable time among ancient buildings or ruins, they 
 immediately fuppofe, that it is to get an account of hidden treafures. 
 On fuch occafions fome caution is neceflary to be obferved, left a per- 
 
 * V'ld. Lucan. lib. i. bf Stat, lib. i. Sylv. 
 
 t Adjacet tanplum prifatm Jsf religloftim. Stat Clitumnus ipfe amiflus ornatufque pratextd. 
 Vrafem nimien at que et'iam fat'uUcum indicatit fortes. Sparfa funt circa facella complura, totidem- 
 que Dei fimulacra : fua ciiiqne veneratio, fman nomen : quibufdam vera etiamfontes. Nam prater 
 ilium, quaft parentein ca-terorum, funt minor cs capite di/creti ; fed jiumini mifcentur, quod ponte 
 tranfrnittiiur. 'Is terminus facri profaniqite. In fuperiore parte navigare tantion, infra etiavi 
 natare concefjum - - Nee dejunt villes, qua fecuta fiutninis amwnitatem, tnargini inpjiunt. In 
 fumtna, nihil erit, ex quo non capias voluptatem, U'c. 'Adjoining to it is an old and awful tem- 
 ' pie, in which the god Clilumnus ftands, cloathed and adorned with the pratexta. The 
 ' oracles delivered fhew the god propitious and prophetic. There are little temples fcat- 
 ' tered up and down in thefe parts, in every one of which is the ftatue of the deity : each 
 ' has a diftincl: worfhip, and a particular name. Some of them have alfo fprings confecrated 
 ' to them : for befides the original fpring, which feems, as it were, the parent of the reft, 
 ' there are fcveral fmaller flreams, divided from the chief fource. They mix with the river, 
 ' over which a bridge terminates the facred, and divide them from the profane places. 
 ' Abo\ e the bridge vou are permitted only to go in boats i below it you are allowed to 
 ' fwim, ^c' 
 
 fon
 
 From RO M E to LO RETTO, 19 
 
 fon (hould bring himfelf into fome difagreeable adventure by too long an 
 indulgence of his curiofity; efpecially when alone, and in a folitary place. 
 
 The ancients erroneoufly imagined that the great number of horned OfthehreeJof 
 cattle brought from JJmbria owed their white colour to the river Clitum- '^p'^ '^""i"" 
 nus. Hence Properties fays: ^ncounrj. 
 
 ^a jormoja fuo Clitumnus jiumina luco 
 Integit j Gf itiveos ahliiit U7ida boves. 
 
 Prop. Lib. ii. Eleg. 19. v, 25. 
 
 * Shaded with trees, Clitumnus' waters glide, 
 
 * And milk-white oxen drink its beauteous tide.* 
 
 Addison, 
 
 Ckudian, fpeaking of the journey of Ho?iorius to RofJiCi fays : 
 
 ^in G? Clitumni facras viSioribiis undas, 
 Candida quce Latiis prabeiit ar?nenia triumphisy 
 
 Vifere ciira fiiit. 
 
 Claudian. de Sexto Conf. Hon. 
 
 ' Next he came. 
 
 * Where fair Clitumnus rolls his facred ftream, 
 
 ' Whence hecatombs of milk-white oxen come, 
 ' To grace the triumphs of imperial Rontc' 
 
 Et lavet ingent em p erf u film flumine f aero 
 Clitumnus taurum, Narque albefcentibus iindis 
 In 'Tibrim properanSy Tiiteaque inglorius humor. 
 
 Sil. Ital. lib, viii, 
 
 ' Clitumnus, that prefents its facred ftores, 
 
 * To wafli the bull : the Nar's infedled tide, 
 
 * Whofe fulph'rous waters into Tiber glide : 
 
 * Tinea's fmali ftream that runs inglorious on.' 
 
 Addison. 
 
 Hinc albi, Clitumne, greges, & maxima taw'Ui 
 ViSlima, jape tuo perjufi Jlumine Jacro 
 Roinanos ad templa Deum duxere triumphs. 
 
 ViRG. Georg. ii, u 468. 
 
 D 2 There
 
 20 J^rom ROME to LORE rro, 
 
 ' There flows CUtumnus through the flow'ry plain j 
 ' Whofe waves, for triumphs after profp'rous war, 
 * The vidlim ox, and fnowy ilieep prepare. 
 
 Addison. 
 
 Servius, in his commentary upon thefe words, fays : CUtumnus autem 
 Jluvitis ejl in Meva?iia, qua pars cjl Umbria, partis 'Tufci/^, de quo Jiiroio, 
 . lit dicit Pli7iiiis in Hijloria natiirali, animalia, qua potaverint, albos foetus 
 crea?it. * Now CUtumnus is a river in Mevania, a part of Umbria, which 
 ' is a province of Tufcaiiy. And PUny, in his Natural Hi/iory., fays, that 
 * the cattle which drink its waters produce a white breed.' Poffiby Ser- 
 i^ius has an eye to the padiige of PU/iy [Hi ft. Nat. Ub. ii. c. 103.) which 
 in the common editions runs thus: In FaUfco omnis aqua pota candidos 
 boves facit. Some editions, inflead of omnis have amnis ; and others, 
 though but few, read CUtummis ; fo that Servius' s copy muft have been 
 one of the latter. But fhould this reading be admitted, it is hard to 
 conceive how PUny fhould commit fuch a geographical error relating to 
 a country fo near Rome, as to place the CUtumnus in the province of the 
 FaUfci, which belonged to Hetruria : whereas nothing can be more cer- 
 tain than that it is in Umbria, betwixt Spoktto and 'Tacarena ; or more 
 precifely in the country formerly called Mevania, as is evident from 
 PUny, Suetonius, &c. That the Hifpcllates had a public bath and houfe 
 of entertainment near the CUtwnnus, is mentioned by the younger Pliny. 
 Now Hifpellum is certainly the modern Spello, lying northwards, beyond 
 the 'Topino, betwixt Foligno and AJJiJi, and famous for the many antiqui- 
 ties daily difcovered there. As to the particular nature of the cattle of 
 this country, their whitenefs is by no means owing to the water of the 
 CUtumno, the fame fpecies being feen in all the northern parts of Italy; 
 efpecially in the Bol&gnefe, whither the Clitutnm does not diredl its courfe. 
 Neither does this river alter the colour of the fwine bred near it, which in 
 its neighbourhood and all over Italy are generally black, or of a dark 
 brownifh colour. 
 
 The C//V/^;w7(5 joins the T^f<7rr;z^, xkiz Rucciano, and the T/;;/^, which 
 difcharge themfelves into the Topino, and under that name mingle with 
 the Chiafcio, through which at laft it lofes itfelf in the Tiber. 
 
 Not far from the above-mentioned temple of CUtumnus lies the village 
 Pifllgnano. Pefignano, or Pijfignano, on the right-hand of the road towards Foligno. 
 The ancient name of it was Pifcina Jain ; fo that fome have been in- 
 duced to believe, that the ruins which pafs for a temple of CUtumnus, 
 are rather the remains of a temple of Jamis : but this conjecture wants 
 farther fupport for its confirmation. 
 
 Trevi
 
 From RO ME to LORE TTO. 21 
 
 ^Tnvi ftands alfo on the right-hand on an eminence j and the road Trevi. 
 all the way betwixt La Vene and Foligno is upon the level, and exceed- 
 ing pleafant. 
 
 Foligno {mLatin Fulginas) has a greater trade in cloth, fi Ik, and fpices Foligro, 
 than any of the neighbouring cities ; and the magnificent altar and paint- 
 ings infrefco in the epifcopal church are worth obferving. 
 
 On the left, at the next flage beyond Foligno, lies ^Jifi, the native Anifi, 
 place of St. Fra?icis, and very famous for the beautiful church belonging 
 to the order inftituted by that faint, in which fome fay he is buried ; and 
 alfo for the great numbers of pilgrims reforting to it. Thofe who are 
 not drawn hither by devotion, will meet with fuch entertainment among 
 the fine paintings in this church, by Giotto, Giottino-, Giovanni Cimahiie, 
 Pietro Cavallino Romano, Frederico Barocci, &c. that they cannot be dif- 
 pleafed with the journey. The convent of Francijcan nuns, called the 
 nuns of St. Clare, is likewife worth feeing. To the fouth of AJfiJi, at 
 the diftance of an Italian mile, lies another beautiful church, called 
 *S. Maria Portiuncula, which is alfo much vifited by pilgrims. 
 
 Near a hill, jult without Foligno, in the way X.o'Tolentino, it is worth Caflro Pales, 
 while to go up to Caflro Pales, where, befides a famous paper-mill, is 
 to be feen the palace of the bifliop of Orvietano, marquis of El/Jci, to 
 whom this place belongs. Here is a very remarkable grotto, where Groua. 
 the lapideous exfudations have formed all kind of ornaments, as pil- 
 lars, bunches of grapes, pears, and other fruit, which hang down from 
 the top. This grotto confifts of feveral paffages and apartments, and has 
 a communication with the houfe. In the court are feveral infcriptions, 
 indicating the time when Chrijiina queen of Siveden, Violanta hereditary 
 princefs of Florence, count T)aun the vice-roy of Naples, and other per- 
 fons of diftinftion, vifited this place, &c. 
 
 The road from hence to Tolentino lies over the Appennine mountains ; Tokntino'. 
 but, in thefe parts, the roads are kept in exceeding good repair ; and 
 in feveral places ftone monuments are erected in praife of the feveral 
 popes, or furveyors by whom the roads have been made or repaired. I . 
 cannot here forbear wifliing, that, in feveral parts of Germany, the fo- 
 vereigns would affed: to perpetuate their names in this ufeful manner; it 
 muft be owned, however, that the houfe of Auftria has fet them a very 
 laudable example in its hereditary dominions. 
 
 The villages and inns on this road are fo mean, that it is advifable for 
 a traveller to carry cold provifions with him ; and efpecially fome wine, 
 as that of the country (which is always boiled for keeping) is not agree- 
 able to every one's tafte. 
 
 From To'lentino the road leads again into a level, fruitful, and well 
 cultivated country. The profped nQiii 'Maceraf a over the vallies on each 
 
 fide
 
 22 
 
 Macerata. 
 
 Ruins o/Hel- 
 via Ricina. 
 
 Recanau. 
 
 Lm-gf arti- 
 chokes. 
 
 Fmn ROME to LO RETrO. 
 
 fide of the road is extremely delightful. The chief gate of Macerata^ 
 is built after the manner of a triumphal arch, with three arches j and 
 over it on the country fide (lands a brafs ftatue of cardinal Pio. The 
 town affords nothing remarkable, and the clock-work, which the inha- 
 bitants fo much boall: of, is but a mere bauble. When the clock ftrikes, 
 the three eaftern Magi make their appearance, attended by an angel, and 
 pafllng before an image of the virgin Mary make a reverential bow, the 
 crowns on their heads being lifted up. Over them a ftar is fufpended, which 
 afcends whilft the images are pafling under it. The figures are but a 
 foot high, and perform their adoration in a very aukward manner. 
 
 Betwixt Macerata and Recanati are to be feen the ruins of the ancient 
 town of Hehia Ricma, built by the emperor Septimius Severus. After its 
 deftrudlion by the Goths, the inhabitants of Recanati and Macerata found 
 a good fupply of fiones for building, among its ruins. At the laft men- 
 tioned town the following ancient infcription hath been found. 
 
 Imp. Cafari L. Veri. Aug. fil. divi. Pii. Nep. Divi. Hadriani. Pron. 
 Divi. T'rajan. Parth. Abnep. Divi. Nervtt. Adnepoti. L. Septimio. Severe. 
 Pio. Perti?iaci. Auguflo. Arabico. Adiabenico. Parthico. Maximo. P. M. 
 Tribunit. Poteft. XIII. Imp. XL Cos. III. P. P. Colonia. Hehia. Ricina. 
 Conditori. fuo. 
 
 From Seravalle to Macerata the road runs along the bank of the river 
 Chiento -, and betwixt Macerata and Recanati crofles the Potenza. Reca- 
 77ati ftands on a hill within three miles of Loretto ; and after pafijng 
 through the gate of this town, one has a glorious profpeft towards the 
 Adriatic fea and adjacent valleys. The aquedudl, which, according to 
 the infcription on it, was built by Paid V. is nothing extraordinary. But 
 fuch is the fertility of this country, that the Macerata artichokes are fre- 
 qently known to weigh above twenty pounds. The Recajiati celery and 
 the Loretto fennel are alfo highly efteemed 3 but the latter is yet infe- 
 rior to that which grows in Sicily. 
 
 Loretto, 
 
 I ever remain^ &c. 
 
 LETTER
 
 L R B TTO. 
 
 LETTER LXIL 
 
 Defcrq)tion of Loretto, 
 
 23 
 
 SIR, 
 
 TH E Cafa Santa, or the houfe in which the virgin Mary is faid to 
 have lived in Nazareth, has rendered Lorctto famous all over 
 Chriflendom. It is pretended to have been carried in the month o^ May, 
 1 29 1, through the air from Galilee io "Terfatom Dalmatia by angels j 
 and four years and a half afterwards to have been carried to Italy, where 
 about midnight on the loth of December, 1294, it was fet down in a 
 wood in the diftridl of Kecanati, about a thoufand paces from the fea. 
 If 'Turfelini may be credited, on the alighting of this facred houfe from 
 its aerial journey, all the trees and flirubs in the wood bowed with the 
 greateft reverence, and continued in that pofture till at laft they withered 
 and decayed. It feems the remains of this pious wood, by the brutal 
 irreverence of the peafants, were dug up in the year 1575 in order to 
 improve the land *. 
 
 A rich and pious lady, whofe name was Lnureta, being at that time Dm'vnthn «/ 
 lady of the manor, the holy houfe was from her name called thie houfe LorettT""^ 
 of Laureta. The road leading to this facred houfe becoming dangerous 
 by the cruelties of robbers, which deterred the pilgrims from refoiting 
 thither to perform their devotions, at the end of a few months the an- 
 gels took it up again and removed it to a hill about a thoufand paces 
 nearer to Recanati. The place where it was then fituated belonged to 
 two brothers, who at firfl: received the prefent with becoming joy and 
 gratitude : but it was not long before the vaft profits accruing from the 
 refort of pilgrims to the holy houfe, and the rich offerings they made, 
 kindled fuch feuds betwixt them as terminated in a duel, in which both 
 the brothers lofl their lives. 
 
 To prevent any farther misfortunes, and as a punifliment to the un- 
 worthy pofTefibrs of fuch a treafure, it is pretended the holy Virgin again 
 direded the angels to remove the houfe a bow-iliot further up the country, 
 to an eminence about two thoufand geometrical paces from the fea j and 
 this is the place where it now ftands. This happened a few months 
 after it had been placed on the eflate of thofe bloody-minded brothers ; 
 and it is received as a matter of fadt, that the Cafa Santa within a year 
 
 Vide Horatil Turjdlini Hifloria Laurdana, edit. Vcnet. 1727, ^vo. />. 27 (J feq 
 
 4 after
 
 24. Defcription ofLORE TT* 0. 
 
 after its firft arrival in Italy from Dalmatia, (hifted its place three times 
 in the diftridt of Rccanati. 
 
 The popifh writers are at a lofs for an anfwer to the objedlion, that 
 the Caja Santa had been near two hundred years in Italy before any Au- 
 thor of that country took any notice of it*. But what gready contri- 
 buted to bring the Madona di Loretto in vogue was the offering of a 
 golden cup by pope Pius II. in perfon, on which is to be feen the fol- 
 lowing infcription : 
 
 Pia Dei Genitrix, 
 
 ^amvis tua potejias mdlis coartletur jinibiis^ ac tofum impleat Orbem mi- 
 raculis -, quia t amen pro 'uohmtate fcepius nno loco tnagh qiidni alio deleStarisj 
 & Latireti tibi placitam jedem per fwguhs dies innumeris fignis & miracu- 
 lis cxornas ; ego infelix peccator, mente & animo ad Te recurro fupplex 
 or am, lit mi hi arde?itemjebrim molejlijjimamque tujfim auferas, lafijque mem- 
 bris fanitatem rejlituas, Reipublicce, lit credimus, faliitarem. Interim hoc 
 munm accipito meajervitiitis figniim. 
 
 Pius Papa II. Ann. hum. Sal. 
 MCCCCLXIF. 
 
 * Propitious Mother of God ! 
 ' Though thy unlimited power fills the whole world v/ith miracles ; 
 
 * yet as thou art often plealed to fliew thy felf more delighted with fome 
 
 * places than others, and continued it daily by innumerable figns and 
 ' wonders to diftinguifh this thy favourite feat at Loretto ; I, who am a 
 ' miferable linner, run to thee for fuccour, and from the bottom of my 
 ' heart implore thy affiftance ; humbly intreating thee to relieve me from 
 ' a burning fever and a violent cough, and likewife to reftore the ufe of 
 
 * my feeble limbs, as I am perfuaded that my recovery will be a pub- 
 ' lie benefit to Chriftendom. In the mean time gracioufly accept of 
 
 * this offering from thy devoted fervant, Pius II, Pope, 1464.' 
 
 This offering and the omnipotence afcribed to the virgin Maty in the 
 above-mentioned addrefs were however of litde effecfl ; for his Holinefs 
 died that very year at Ancona^ and of the fame complication of diftempers 
 againft which he was for procuring the virgin's affiflance, by means of 
 this fplendid offering. But Turfdlltii roundly affirms, that the Pope was 
 cured ziLoretto immediately after he had finiffied his prayer. 
 Defcription of As to the dimenfions of the Cafa Santa it is about forty feet in length, 
 tie holy houfe . ^^^ quite twenty in breadth, and about twenty-five in height, according 
 
 * The author's confutation of this and other miracles of the fame kind, I have omitted, 
 fmce the bare mention of them is enough to fhew the ridiculous abfurdity of fuch fa- 
 bles, which would h;irdly gain credit among Hottentots. 
 
 4 to
 
 L R E T T 0. 25 
 
 to TurfelUni ; but this author is even here very inaccurate : the houle be- 
 ing properly forty-three Roman pahni wanting two inches in lengtli 
 within the edifice, eighteen /'/'?/ot/ four inches broad, and twenty-fix palmi 
 in height. Hence it appears that the length is thirty-one feet and three 
 quarters, the breadth thirteen feet and near three inches, and the height 
 eighteen feet and three quarters Englijh meafure, reckoning a palmi and 
 a half equal to thirteen inches. In the center of the roof it is five 
 palmi higher than on the fides. Formerly this houfe had only a timber 
 cieling j but lefi: by a great number of lights continually burning here it 
 fliould happen to take fiie, Clement VII. caufed a vaulted roof to be 
 made. For that end, and to fiirengthen the foundation as well as to pre- 
 vent any damage by making this alteration, it was ftrongiy compacted 
 with rafters, boards, and ropes, and fupported by machines till the new 
 foundation was carried up, fo as to be joined with the old wal's of the 
 houfe. At the fame time alfo the door was altered : for there being only 
 one entrance towards the north, which was in the front; to remedy this 
 inconvenience, on account of the vafl concourfe of people coming in and 
 going out, it was thought advifeable to wall this up and make three other 
 doors ; two for the people, and a third opening into the holieft part of 
 the chapel for the clergy. Thefe breaches for the doors, by order of the 
 Pope, were not entered upon till after a proper courfe of fafting, (^c. For 
 it is pretended that Nerucio the architecft going about it without the 
 proper preparations, as if it had been a common work, was feized witli 
 a fudden illnefs which was very near proving fatal to him. The weft 
 window oppofite to the image of the virgin was alfo enlarged and fe- 
 cured with a gilt iron-work. The rafters, boards, tiles and other mate- 
 rials that were taken away when thefe alterations were made, are depo- 
 fited under the floor of the Cafa Sa?ita, that they might not be fet up 
 as reliques in other places, which might prove prejudicial to Lorctto. 
 With this view alfo the people are made to believe, and numberlefs in- 
 flances are ailedged, that thofe who prefume clandefl:inely to carry away 
 fo much as a bit of flone or mortar belonging to this facred houfe, are 
 punifhed with difeafes and other misfortunes and become extremely 
 wretched, having no peace of mind till they bring back what they have 
 pilfered. This is farther confirmed by fliewing a flone faflened with 
 two iron braces in the wall, which John Soarius bifhop of Conimbria, ia 
 the year 1562, fent back from Trent, that his health which had been 
 impaired for taking away that flone might be reflored ; though he had 
 pope Pius the fourth's permiflion for fo doing, and the ftone was intended 
 to be preferved as a relique in a new-built church in Portugal. The 
 people therefore mufl be fatisfied, and even account it no fmall favour 
 to be permitted to kifs or lick the walls of the Cafa Santa. This cele- 
 V^OL. III. E ^ brated
 
 26 L R E "I r 0. 
 
 brated edifice is manifeftly built of bricks of unequal fizes, though the 
 popiih writers labour hard to prove it a kind of ftone *, at prefent, no 
 where to be found. Thefe bricks indeed are not placed in the mofl 
 regular order : however, Ihould curiofity or dovotion prompt a perfon to 
 carry off the leaft fragment, he would find it difficult to avoid difcovery ; 
 the cement, as is obferved in all old buildings, being very hard to 
 break off". On the cieling is painted the AlTumption of the virgin 
 Mary ; but at prefent it is almofl: obfcured by the fmoke of the great num- 
 ber of lamps continually burning in this houfe. 
 
 On the top of the Cafa Santa is a little tower, which the Roman" 
 catholics cannot deny to have been the v/ork of Chriftians ; fince it is 
 contrary to all probability to imagine, that the virgin Mary had fuch a 
 tower ereded upon her mean habitation. In violent tempefts of thun- 
 der and lightning, they ring two little bells which are hung in the 
 tower, not doubting but that their found will difperfe any tempeft, and 
 prevent any ill effedls from it. 
 
 There is one part of the Cafa Santa, which maybe looked upon as the 
 
 Holy cf holies ; for it is feparated from the other part by a filver baluftrade 
 
 and a gate of the fame metal. This is faid to be the fpot where the 
 
 virgin was fitting when the angel Gabriel appeared to her at the time of 
 
 the annunciation. The filver baluftrade was a gift of cardinal Fortacar^ 
 
 rero, and the gate of the fame metal of cardinal Magalotti. 
 
 Remarkable The window through which the angel came into the houfe, is fliewn 
 
 77"'"^°"''''^ on the weft-fide of the Cafa Santa. The image of the virgin Mary^ 
 
 thewir^in! which ftands facing it is made of cedar, and is five feet in height. The 
 
 evangelift St. Luke (who from the number of portraits of our Saviour 
 
 and his mother, faid to be done by him, muft have had litde time to 
 
 fpare for any thing elle) has in this piece given us a fpecimen of his 
 
 Of Chrijl. iMll in fculpture -f*. The divine infant in her right arm is not quite two 
 
 palmi high, and of the fame wood; in her left-hand fhe has a globe, and 
 
 two fingers of the right-hand are eredt, as if flie was giving the blefiing. 
 
 The faces of both images have been overlaid with a kind of filver lacker, 
 
 * It would be no difficult matter to make the people believe this, when they have fwal- 
 lovvcd the fable recited abo\'e concerning this houfe. 
 
 t All the pieces flaewn as St. Luke% works would make a very large colleftion ; but it 
 happens that the whole pretence of the evangelift's fkill in painting relies upon the flender 
 foundation oi Nicephorus's tcftimony, and fome other ftories no lefs fufpicious. The pro- 
 bability of it, however, vanifhes, by confidering that the ancient Jezw and primitive Chri- 
 ftians, according to the accounts of Jofephus and Clemens Alexandrinus, exploded painting, 
 as highly pernicious both to the ftate and religion. This is farther confirmed by the filence 
 of the mofl: ancient writers ; and merits the more attention, as the fathers of the fecond 
 council of Nice make no mention of St. Luke's painting f whereas it would have made very 
 ftrongly for their zeal in fupport of images. It is verv probable that St. Luke's defcriptive 
 account of the Virgin's virtues, isc, have given rife to this fidion of his being a painter. 
 
 which
 
 J 
 
 L R E r r 0. 27 
 
 which is now become quite black with the continual fmoke of the 
 lamps ; fo that the virgin Mary wants only a thick upper lip to make her 
 a perfedl negro *. The infant Jejus is dreffed in a flame-coloured habit, D>-efs. 
 and the virgin Mary in an azure robe, with which (ho, is fo modeflly co- 
 vered, that nothing is to be feen of the ftatue but its face and the toes. 
 The mantle hanging down her flioulders is of the fame colour, pow- 
 dered with golden flars ; her hair hangs on her flioulders and part of her 
 back. On her head is a triple crown of gold, enriched with pearls and Crowi. 
 diamonds, and another on that of the child JeJus ; both were the gift 
 of X^w/iXIII. king oi France^ and valued at feventy-five thoufandy^'W/, 
 or crowns. On the former are thefe words engraven : 
 
 ^u caput ante mcum c'lnxijli Virgo corona., 
 Nunc caput ecce teget nojlra corona tiamt, 
 
 ' In return for the crown which thou, O holy virgin, didil bellow on 
 ? me, accept of this which I have placed on thy head.* 
 
 On the latter : 
 
 CJmftiis dcdit Mihi, 
 Chrijlo reddo coronam. 
 
 * Chrift gave me a crown, and I reflore it again.* 
 
 The gold-chains, rings, and jewels with which this image of the vir- %,^.^/^ 
 gin Mary is loaded, though they make a moft fplendid appearance, I 
 pafs over; as they cannot be very entertaining in a defcription. They 
 are alfo fometimes varied, in order to ftrike the eye with fuch alterations j 
 and the jewels which are taken off at fuch times are laid up in the trea- 
 fury. Her apparel alfo is not always the fame; for on the feven days of 
 paffion-week Ihe is dreffed in deep mourning, and complimented with a 
 frerti fuit every day. When they take off or put on any part of the Vir-^ 
 gin's apparel, they ufe a great deal of ceremony, and low inclinations 
 of the body ; whilfi: the crouding fpedlators lay their diftreffes before the 
 faint with loud invocations, the violence of which increafes as the priefts 
 proceed in undreffing the image ; as if the cries of the fuppliants could 
 fooner touch the heart of the virgin when naked, than when fhe is 
 dreffed in her robes. The fculptor has taken care that the modefty of 
 
 * The apocryphal book of Baruch, ch. vi. v. 7,i. likewife mentions the faces of idols 
 grown quite bhck wiih the fmoks of the lamps biiinijig before them. See alio Arnobius, 
 lib. vi. adverjh genti's, p. 202. 
 
 E 2 the
 
 28 L R E r r 0. 
 
 the priefts (hould not be offended with the fight of a naked female flatue, 
 by adding a proper covering. An account of fome of the ornaments 
 which are generally to be feen on this pompous image may not be dif- 
 pleafing to the reader, i. A jewel confiiling of thirteen rubies, fixty- 
 fix emeralds, and three hundred and fifty-one diamonds, which was an 
 offering of AmiCy a princefs of Neuburg, and confort of Charles II. of 
 Spam. 2. A golden crucifix, with very large and beautiful emeralds, 
 the gift of cardinal Paolo Sfondrata. 3. Two large pearls fet in gold, 
 hanging at the divine infant's hand, prefented by a princefs of Darmjladt. 
 4. A crucifix fet with diamonds of great value, given by cardinal Ma- 
 refcotto. 5. and 6. Two other crucifixes fet with rubies and diamonds, 
 offered by the cardinals Barberini and Corft. 7. The badge of the 
 golden-fleece, with a collar fet with large fapphires, rubies, emeralds, 
 and topazes, the gift of Catherine wife of Gabriel Bethlen Gabor, prince 
 of I'ranfyhania. 8. A large golden heart, hanging at a gold chain fet 
 with rubies and diamonds, offered by Maximilian I. eledor of Bavaria. 
 9. A clufler of diamonds, rubies, and emeralds fet in gold, on which 
 is a pelican feeding her young-ones with her blood, reprefented by a very 
 large ruby at her breaft, an offering of the dutchefs d Ucccda. 10. A 
 large emerald, fet round with diamonds and rubies, which hangs on one 
 of the infants hands, the gift of the dutchefs de Sahiati. 11. Three 
 admirable emeralds fet in gold, and furrounded by diamonds and other 
 emeralds, prefented by Violanta Beatrix, a princefs of the houfe of Ba- 
 varia, and widow of Ferdinand hereditary prince of Florence. The niche 
 in wliich the image ftands is adorned with feventy-one large Bohemian 
 topazes, the offering of the cavaliere Capra. 
 Oferingonthe On the right-fide of the image is an angel of caft gold, profufely en- 
 iVete^'der^ riched with diamonds and otlier gems, with one knee inclined, offering 
 a golden heart embellifhed with large diamonds and terminating in a 
 fiame of rubies and pearls, with a lamp burning continually over it. This 
 piece, which is faid to have coft 50,000 ducats, was offered by Maria 
 Beatrix Eleajtora, of the houfe of EJle, queen of king James II. of Eiig- 
 landy that by the intercefHon of the virgin Mary fhe might conceive a 
 fon. Accordingly, foon after, as it is faid, flie had a fon j who has 
 fince made fo much noife in Europe, under the name of the Pretender 
 to the Britijh crown. 
 
 On the left-fide of the Virgin's image is a filver angel, in the fame 
 reverential poflure, offering her a golden heart crowned, and glittering 
 with pearls, emeralds, and diamonds, likewife terminating in a flame. 
 This was the gift oi Laura Martinozzia, widow oiAlphonjo IV. duke of 
 Modma, and mother to the above-mentioned queen of England. 
 
 5 
 
 On
 
 L R E T T 0. 29 
 
 On the right-hand of the Virgin is a filver angel, weighing three 
 hundred and fifty-one pounds, and offering, on a cufhion of the fame 
 metal, an infant of mafiy gold, which weighs twenty-four pounds *. 
 This was the gift of Lewis XIII. king of France for the birth of the 
 Dauph'niy afterwards Lewis XIV. who made a much greater ftir in 
 Europe than the Pretender mentioned above. Many other gold and 
 filver images of children I omit ; though fome of the former exceed 
 twelve pounds in weight. Here one alfo fees an infinite number of other 
 coftly votive pieces, the enumeration of which would engage me in a 
 tedious detail. 
 
 The robe which this famous image had on when it was brought from 
 Dahnatia into Italy, is of red camlet, and kept in a glafs flirine. The 
 difli out of which it is pretended the Virgin and her divine infant ufed to 
 eat, is (haped like a fhallow bowl, and of glazed earthen-ware ; but its 
 outfide is now plated over with filver. This utenfil is not only kifled ; 
 but rofaries, medals, agjius Dei's, crucifixes, and paper caps painted with 
 the image of the Madon7ia of Loretto are rubbed againfi: it, from a firm 
 perfuafion that they thus became an infallible remedy againft the head- 
 ach and other diforders. An ague is faid to have been perfedly cured 
 only by drinking a litde cold water out of this difli : even the oil and 
 wax of the lamps and candles burning before the image, are not without 
 their medicinal virtues. Befides the diih, here are other pieces of furni- 
 ture, the meannefs of which fhews the Virgin's humility or low condi- 
 tion. Under the image is the hearth, or fire-place, where (he ufed to 
 drefs her vidtuals, which is now ftiled SacrofanSius Caminiis. 
 
 Seven golden lamps are continually burning before the image, one o^Lamp. 
 which, prefented by the republic of Venice on account of the ceafing of 
 an epidemical diftemper, weighs thirty-feven pounds and a half. Under 
 this hangs another, richly fet with jewels, offered a few years fince by 
 duke Hia di Palma, who declared that it coft fifteen thoufand ducats. 
 The lamp that (lands next the virgin's face, which is held by three an- 
 gels, weighs nine pounds, and is a memorial of the devotion and fkill of 
 Francis Maria duke d'Urbino, who is faid to have made this admirable 
 piece with his own hands. Another golden lamp, weighing twenty pounds, 
 to be feen here, paflTes for the work of Sigifmund king of Poland. That 
 
 * Dion, in his feventy-fecond book, fays, that the emperor Commodus was poflefled of a 
 golden ftatue weighing^ a thoufand pounds ; but this ftill falls very fhort of the pieces 
 which Ptolemy Philadelphus once exhibited to the people, as a difplay of his riches and power. 
 Among thefe, according to Callixencs of Rhodes, cited in Jthemeus's firfl: booic, were two 
 golden eagles, each of them fifteen cubits long, one hundred golden couches, three thou- 
 fend two hundred golden crowns ; and likewife a crown eighty cubits in height, which 
 was placed over the entrance of the temple of Berenice i not to mention fome other par- 
 ticulars almoft incredible, 
 
 which
 
 30 
 
 L R E r r 0. 
 
 which Francis II. duke oi Modena offered to the Virgin, weighs eighteen 
 
 pounds and a half. Among the thirty-feven filver lamps, with which 
 the other part of the Cafa Santa is illuminated, feveral weigh fifty, 
 eighty, a hundred, and four of them a hundred and twenty-eight pounds. 
 For the fupplying of all thefe lamps with oil, fuch legacies have been 
 left, or funds fettled by the perfons who prefented them, that they are 
 fo far from being a charge to the Caja Santa, as to yield a confiderable 
 profit to it J fome thoufands of dollars being the leafl legacy left for each 
 lamp. 
 Altar. The altar flands in the middle of the partition betwixt the fanSiiim 
 
 Jan^loriim and the other part of the chapel It does not intercept the full 
 view of the image, which ftands pretty high in the fanduary behind the 
 altar. The credulous papifts affirm, that this altar was made by the 
 apoftles themfelves, and brought hither from Galilee along with the fa- 
 cred houfe. 
 
 On this altar is a fquare ftone, on which St. Teter is faid to have ce- 
 lebrated the firft mafs. The fplendid palliotto, enriched with jafper, lapis 
 lazuli, and agat, was the gift of Cofmo II. great duke of Tufcaity. 
 
 Over the window, through which the angel Gabriel came into the 
 Virgin's hcufe at the annunciation, flands a pidture of the crucifixion, 
 pretended to be brought by the apoftles into this houfe, and to have been 
 by St. Luke. 
 
 The prefent new floor of the Cafa Santa confifts of fquare pieces of 
 red and white marble. The walls feem to have been formerly plaftered 
 with mortar ; part of which, with the portrait of the virgin Mary, and 
 a groupe of angels painted on it, is ftill remaining. 
 
 Notwithftanding the mean appearance of the walls within, the out- 
 fide of the Cafa Santa is moft elegantly adorned with the fineft marble ; 
 but it is fo contrived, that the marble ftrudlure ferves only as a cafe for 
 it, leaving a fmall interval betwixt it and the brick walls of the CaJa Santa. 
 This is pardy to be attributed to the veneration entertained for thofe fa- 
 cred materials, and partly from an apprehenfion that they would not have 
 fuffered the new and unhallowed marble to be in contact with them ; 
 but would have repelled it with fuch violence, as to endanger the lives 
 of the workmen. This (according to tradition) formerly happened to 
 fome builders, who, out of an indifcreet zeal, were going about to 
 ilrengthen thefe facred walls by fome new additions. 
 
 The above-mentioned marble cafe was begun in the year 1514, in 
 the pontificate of pope Leo X.. and confecrated in the year 1538, by 
 Pai{l III. The expence of it at that time, when labour was cheip, 
 amounted to twenty-two thoufand ducats, exclufive of twenty marble 
 ftatues, and four brafs doors of curious workmanfliip, which have been 
 
 fince
 
 L R E r r 0, 31 
 
 fince added, and mufl have coft an immenfe fum "*. The mofl: ce- 
 lebrated fculptors of that age, as Andrea Sanfovino, Francefco Sangalli^ 
 Domenico Lamia, Nicolo de Pericolic Biagio Bandinclli, Giovanni della 
 Porta and his brother Tomafo, Girolamo Lombardi with his brother 
 Aurelio, Rafaelk da Monte Lupone, il Mofca Fiore?itino, Nic. I'ribulo, 
 Contucci, &c. feem to have emulated each other in this noble ftrudure. 
 It is about fifty feet in length, thirty broad, and about the fame height. 
 No meaner materials than the whiteft Carrara marble has been employed 
 in this building. The two longer fides are adorned with twelve Corin- 
 thian pillars, and the other two fides with eight. The intervals between 
 the pillars are filled with ^^o-r£'//VT;o '5 finely executed, reprefenting the ^'"^ ba/To. 
 mofi: remarkable incidents in the life of the bleffed virgin, ten fiiatues pf^'^''^"" 
 the prophets, and above thefe the ten fibyls. Among the prophets on the 
 fouth-fide, David, with the head of Goliah at his feet, is greatly admired 
 by all connoifiTeurs ; and on the north-fide, in a groupe reprefenting the 
 efpoufals of the virgin Mary, a boy playing with a dog, whilft his mo- 
 ther, with a child in her arms, looks at him with a countenance full of 
 maternal tendernefs and complacency, cannot be viewed without plea- 
 fure. This piece was defigned and begun by Contucci, and finifhed by 
 Raphael da Monte Liipone and Nicolo Trihulo. In the bajfo-relievo that 
 exhibits the extraordinary conveyance of the Cafa Saiita through the air, 
 the expreflion in a peafant driving his afs before him is ftrong and natural. 
 This is the joint work of Tribulo and Sangalli. Under this piece is the 
 following infcription: 
 
 Chrijliane Hofpes, qui fietatis causa hue advenifli, facram Lauretani 
 adem vides divinis myjieriis & miracuhrum gloria toto Orbe terrarum vene- 
 rabilem. Hie janBiJfima Dei Getiitrix Maria in Liicem edita. Hlc ab 
 angelo falutata, Hlc aterni Dei Verbiim Caro faSlum eft. Hanc A?igeli 
 pritnum a Paleflina ad Illycrium adduxere adTerfanSium Oppidum anno j a- 
 lutis MCCXCL Nicolao IV. fummo Pojitifice. Pojlea initio Pontijicatiii 
 Bonifacii VIII. in Picenum tranjlata prope Recinetam urbem in hiijus collis 
 72emore eddem angelorum opera collocata ; iibi loco intra anni fpatium ter cotn^ 
 mutato, hie pojlremo fedem divinitia jixit anno abhine CCC. Ex eo tempore 
 tantce jlupendce rei novitate vicinis fopulis ad admirationem commotis, turn 
 deinceps miracidorum famd longe lateque propagatd, SanSfa hcec domm magttd 
 apud otnnes gentes veneratione habita, cujus parietes nullis fundame?itis fub- 
 fiixi, poft tot feculorum cetates integri flabilefque permanent. Clemens VIII. 
 Pontifex Maximus in hoc marmoreo lapide infcrihi jujjit. Anno Domini 
 MDXCV. 
 
 * The Cafa Santa has indeed four doors, but one of them is a falfe door ; for there 
 are but three entrances cut through the wall. The brafs-work is faid to be done by Giro- 
 lamo Lombardi. ' 
 
 A * Chriftian
 
 32 
 
 Ctije of the 
 bbly houfe. 
 
 L R E r r 0, 
 
 * Chrlftrian flranger,whom devotion has brought hither, thou feeft here 
 the facred houfe of Loretto, which by its divine myfteries, and the 
 fame of its miracles, claims the veneration of the whole world. In 
 this houfe the mofl holy Mary, mother of God, was born ; here (he 
 was vifited by the angel; here theWoRDof the eternal God was made 
 Flesh. This facred houfe was firft brouglit by angels from Palejline 
 to the town o^Terfati in Illyria, in the year of the Chriftiani^ra 1291, 
 and in the pontificate of Nicholas \V . Afterwards in the beginning 
 of the pontificate of Boniface VIII. it was removed by angels a fe- 
 cond time acrofs the feas, and placed in a wood near Reccanati : and 
 laftly, after changing its fituation three times within the fpace of a 
 year, it was at length, by divine appointment, fixed on this hill, about 
 three hundred years fince. From that time the reputation of this fa- 
 cred houfe has been continually increafing by the univerfal wonder 
 raifed among the neighbouring ftates by fo remarkable an event, and 
 likewife by the fame of its miracles, which have attra<fled the venera- 
 tion of the whole world. Its walls, though without any foundation, 
 after fuch a fucceffion of ages, ftill remain found and intire. This in- 
 fcription was cut in marble, and put up by order of his Holinefs Cle- 
 ment VIII. in the year of Chrift 1595.' 
 
 The Caja Santa could not be truly fald to ftand without foundation 
 in the time of pope ClementYlW. which (according to 'Turjcllifii, p. 138.) 
 had been laid by pope Clement VII, 
 
 The edifice which inclofes the holy houfe was defigned by Bramante. 
 Sanfomno, Tribulo, and Andrea Contiicci defigned the fculpture, and alfo 
 executed the greateft part. It was at laft completed in the year 1 579, and 
 G;v^(5r)' XIII. had the honour of putting the finifliing hand to this fuperb 
 work. It ftands in the middle of a beautiful and fpacious church, which 
 preferves it from the injuries of the weather. The pilgrims, in their 
 firft procefiion, generally walk round the Cafa Santa on their knees, 
 though they are under no particular injunctions to do this ; for the man- 
 ner of their performing their devotions here is left to the di<itates of their 
 blind zeal. 
 
 No perfon is permitted to enter the houfe with a fword, or any other 
 g"^'^^.';^.^*^ weapon, which muftbe delivered to an ecclefiaftic, who fits over-againft 
 ^Ks. the door of the fanQuary, and receives the little pecuniary prefents which 
 
 are made for the benefit of the church. Afcudi is a fufficient gratuity 
 for a company of two or three perfons, and the like fum mufi; be given 
 at feeing the treafury : but the offerings of the pilgrims are very con- 
 fiderable, and may without exaggeration be computed at many thoufands 
 of ducats annually. 
 
 The 
 
 No per/on to
 
 L R E rr 0. 33 
 
 The extraordinary worfliip paid by the Romanijls to the virgin Mary is 
 fufticiendy known : and as the veneration for reliques has been, in tlie 
 laft century, carried to the higheft pitch, it may eailly be conceived what 
 a concourfe of people muft be continually reforting to a houfe in which 
 the virgin Mary was born, brought up, efpoufed, and lived after mar- 
 riage ; in which alio the incarnation of Chrift was made known to her, 
 where fhe was overfhadowed by the Holy Ghoft, and laftly, where our 
 Saviour himfelf pafled a great part of his life. From this laft circum- 
 ftance, fome Romanijls, when afl^ed why this relique only, preferably to 
 any other memorial of the evangelical hiftory, efpecially the holy fepul- 
 chre, was not brought away from the infidels by the miniftry of angels, 
 and removed into Europe ? alledge for anfwer, that, among other rea- 
 fons, it was owing to that natural fondnefs which our Saviour retained 
 for the houfe in which he had pafTed many pleafant hours in his child- 
 hood, &c. 
 
 The number of pilgrims who vlfited this place in a year has formerly Numler of piU 
 amounted to two hundred thoufand ; but the Reformation has given a^^'l/ ""' 
 fevere blow to the fale of indulgences j and even among thofe who ftill "'" ^' 
 adhere to the Romip church, the zeal for tirefome pilgrima<^es has 
 cooled, or run into other channels; fo that at prefent the number of 
 pilgrims repairing hither annually, for devotion, feldom exceeds forty or 
 fifty thoufand. It is notmanyyears fince nine thoufand happened to be at 
 Lorctto at one time ; and what a confufion fuch a number muft occalion ia 
 this little town, may eafily be conceived. Some pilgrims come afoot, 
 fome ride on affes or horfes. The female pilgrims w'ho can afford it, 
 generally travel to Lcretto in a carriage ; and as large companies often 
 journey together, many droll incidents happen on the road. As foon as 
 they enter the fuburbs, at the foot of the hill, they fet up a finging, 
 which continues till they reach the church. If the company be too lar<je, 
 the ceremony of going round the Cafa Santa on their knees is omitted ; 
 and they are obliged to exprefs their devotion in fome other manner. 
 The poorer fort of pilgrims are received into an hofpital, where they 
 are provided with beds, and bread and wine every morning and evening 
 for three days. The greatell concourfe is feen here in May, June, and 
 part of July, and likewife in September ; for it feems Paiilus a Sylva was 
 informed in a vifion that the virgin Mary was born on the eighth day of 
 that month. 
 
 The large church, in which the cafe of the Caja Santa flands, as if it C/^an-^. 
 was under a tent, is built of Iftrian ftone, which refcmhles the Traver- 
 tino ftone ufed at Rowe. The front is entirely of marble, and embel- 
 lifhed with very fine fculpture ; and over the portal is a ftatue of the holv 
 Viigin, by the ingenious Lombardi. The three doors on this fide of the 
 
 Vol. III. F church
 
 34 
 
 L R E rr 0, 
 
 Altars and 
 fine fainting!. 
 
 Fimh 
 
 Cardinal Gcie 
 tani'j Kio/iu- 
 mnt. 
 
 church are of bronze with beautiful bajjo-relie'-oo's^ reprefenting different 
 hiftories of the Old Teftainent j thefe are likewife the work of Ljw- 
 bardi. Over the middle door are thefe words : 
 
 JDomtis Deiparce, in qua Verbum Caro fadliim eft. 
 
 \ The houfe of the mother of God in which theWord was made flefh/ 
 
 Befides the altar of the annunciation which flands on the weft fide of 
 the church without the Gj/^z ^'^w/rt, there are reckoned in the church about 
 nineteen other altars and chapels, in which Peregrino Tibaldo, Annibal 
 Ciiracci, Frederice Barocci, Frederico -Zuccari, Gajparino, Giovanni Bagli~ 
 oni, Simon Vouet, Girolamo Mutiani, Francefco Orvieta, Lorenzo Lothy 
 Filippo Bellini d'TJrbino, Giovanni Battifta de Montenuovo, Francefco 
 Minicbio di Forli, and other celebrated artifts, have given fpecimens of 
 their uncommon fkill. 
 
 The fetters of four thoufand Chriftians, who, by the naval vidlory at 
 Lepanto in the time of popeP/'w; V. in 1571, were releafed {romTurki/h 
 flavery, afforded materials to make the iron grates at the front of the 
 feveral chapels in this church. The great cupola is fupported by eight 
 large pilafters ; and in it is painted the affumption and glorification of the 
 virgin Mary, painted by Chrijlopher Rofiealli, otherwife called il Cavaliere 
 Pomarancio. This cupola is covered on the outfide with a hundred and 
 thirteen thoufand pounds of lead *. 
 
 The font ftands in a feparate chapel and coft fixteen thoufand T^W/. 
 It is of bronze and embelliflied with beautiful bajfo-relievo s, reprefent- 
 ing fcriptural hiftories. The bafon ftands on four angels, and over it is 
 the baptifm of our Saviour by John the Baptijl. It is the work of Ver- 
 zelli da Came ri no. 
 
 On the beautiful marble monument of cardinal Gaetatii is the follow- 
 ing infcription : 
 
 NICOLAVS GAETANVS, Car dinali s Sermoneta,Gentilis Papa 
 Bonif. VIII. cum fub id terapus, quo ille Pontificatum iniit., janBam banc 
 domum hie tandetn divifiiiiis confedilje, (S multa fe a Deo Opt. Max. B. 
 Virg. Deiparcs precibus ohtinuijje rneminifjet, fperans ejufdem opem morienti 
 non defuturatn, 'monumentwn hoc marmoreum vivens & incolumis fibi faci- 
 endum curavit, atque in eo, ubi morialitatem exuifjet, corpus fuum recondi 
 voluit, ann. agens LW. Obiit annos natus ferme LX. Ann. Sal, hum. 
 MDLXXXK Menfe Majo. 
 
 * Vide Le Glorie maejlofc dd Santurario di Lordlo, publifhed in o^avo at Macerata by Bal- 
 tofar Boriolini. 
 
 ' Nicholas
 
 L R E T T 0, 35 
 
 ' Nicholas Gaeiani, cardinal Sermoiieta, domeftick chaplain to pope 
 
 * Bom'/'aceVlll. calling to mind, that about the time in which he entered 
 ' into holy orders, this facred houfe had by divine appointment been 
 
 * fixed on this fpot ; and that he had received many favours from the 
 
 * Almighty by the interceffion of the blefled virgin mother of God ; in 
 ' hopes that her afliftance would not be wanting to him in his lafl: mo- 
 
 * ments, whilft alive and in his health, caufed this marble monument 
 ' to be ereded, in the 54th year of his age, for the receptacle of his 
 ' body, when he fhould put off mortality. He died in the month of 
 
 * May 1585, when he had almofl reached the fixtiethyear of his age.' 
 
 The remains of this cardinal were brought hither from Rome, where 
 he died, and on his tomb-ftone is this infcription : 
 
 Hie habitabo, qimtiam elegi earn: 
 * Here will I dwell, becaufe I have chofen her.* 
 
 The pavement of the church confifts of fquare pieces of white ahd 
 red marble. 
 
 Here are feveral confeffionals with fuperfcriptions over them, figni- Caufeffma::. 
 fying in what language ftrangers may confefs at any of them, and re- 
 ceive abfolution. Upwards of twenty yefuits are appointed as conflant 
 confeflbrs ; and among thefe a perfon of any European nation at lead, 
 may find one who underftands his native language. Formerly the Car- 
 melite monks had the care of the Cafa Santa, and it was promifed them 
 by pope Innocent VIII. as they alledged, that they had, for a long time 
 before, been in poffeffion of it, whilll the houfe ftood in Galilee. This 
 allegation was further confirmed by the d'epofitlon of a female demo- 
 niac *. But thefe fathers having for the fpace of nine years quitted not 
 only their fundion, but the town ol Loretto alfo, on account of its un- 
 healthfulnefs, pope Leo X. inftituted canons in their ftead, v/ith a car- Camm. 
 dinal as prefident over them ; and at laft pope Sixtus V. fettled a bifliop 
 here. The air of this place owes its prefent falubrity to pope Clement Vll. 
 who caufed feveral little eminences to be levelled, woods to be cut down, 
 and the morafies to be drained. 
 
 On account of the many mafles partly founded for ever, and partly cimplau:. 
 well paid for and faid here daily on particular occafions, the Cafa Santa 
 maintains near eighty chaplains, who with the canons, beneficiaries and 
 
 * Turjellin. p. 104. This demoniac was a native of Grenoble, from whom information 
 was received concerning the fpot on which the virgin Mary and the angel ftood at the 
 annunciation. 
 
 F 2 eccle*
 
 36 L R E rr 0, 
 
 ecclefiafticks that come to Loretto out of devotion, conftantly perform 
 this eflential part of the Rofnip^ religion. The number of malles daily 
 faid in the Cafa Santa and in the great church where it ftands, amount 
 to a hundred and twenty-three, and in the whole year to forty-four thou- 
 sand eight hundred and ninety-five. 
 Eumchpirp. The eunuclis, wlio fing the oftices in the choir of the Holy Chapel^ 
 likewife fay mafles here; and on futh occahons carry their tefticlcs about 
 them in a little box, wifely concluding, according to mathematical calcu- 
 lation, that the fraiftions -AV and too- are always equal to an integer. 
 No fuch practice however is known at Ro?ne ; but in the northern parts 
 of Italy it is very common. 
 
 The prieils of Cybele the mother of the gods, according to Lucian de 
 Dca Syria were eunuchs -, and the indifpenfable qualification for perform- 
 ing the rites of the faid goddefs was. 
 
 Per trijle 'Uidnusy pcrque JeSfum dedecus ; 
 
 ' A grievous wound and an infamous caftration,' 
 
 as Prudentiiis exprefles it. 
 ^"'.'^"''i.ld' Eunuchs faying mafs, however, is not contrary to the papal laws, 
 from holy or- which cxcludc from the priefthood only fuch mutilated perfons as 
 ders. have Voluntarily and deliberately deprived themfelves of their virility, a 
 
 finger, a foot, or an eye *. But if any fuch thing has happened to a per- 
 fon in his childhood, or unvoluntarily, or by the direcflion of phyficians, 
 it fhall not difqualify him for holy orders -f-. As to the lofs of the left 
 eye, which is called Ocidis Canonis, the reafon affigned for rejeding a 
 candidate on that account is, that a prieft who wants that eye when he 
 reads mafs, is obliged at faying Dominus Vobifcum, ' the Lord be with 
 ' you,' to turn his head %. Thofe who are deprived of any member, 
 either by their own hand, defire, or fault, mufl: have a difpenfation pre- 
 vioufly to their admittance into holy orders. Where the Miniitice of 
 the canon law are fo cautioufly obferved, it were to be wifhed that 
 fome attention were paid to more important precepts, founded both in 
 natural and revealed religion ; and that the Italian clergy could more 
 ferioufly confider and put in execution the canons de vita & honejlate 
 
 * c. pamiUnies 3, c. Ji quis ahfcidit /^, e. qui partem 6, c. lator. 11, c. fi Evangelica 13, 
 
 •)■ Diif. c. ft quis ahfcidit c. I, 3, iff 5, corp. vitiat. ord. c. ft quis a Medicis 7, dijl. 55 : 
 Nift fit elu/catus c. fin. difi. 55; quia talis nunqua?n or dinar i pot eft. 
 
 X A certain ignorant prieft, who had loft one eye, looking round, and obferving only 
 a fingle perfon prefent at mafs, thought he had done mighty well in faying Dominus Tibif- 
 lum. 
 
 Cleric,
 
 L R E rr 0. 27 
 
 Ckric. as alfo dc excrf. Pirelat. which deprive incumbents of their bene- 
 fices ob Mafculam Vencrem. 
 
 Formerly the walls of the church at horetto were covered with mul- 
 titudes of pi6tures and votive pieces ; fome of wood, odiers of wax or 
 brafs : but befides the coaifenefs of the performance and meannefs of 
 many of them, they very much darkened the church; and therefore in 
 1673, the far greater part of them were removed, and the filver and 
 gold tablets employed to better ufes. Near the Cafa Satita in this church RUicukus fa. 
 is fhU to be feen the picture of a priefl offering his entrails to the virgin ^^'^■ 
 Mary. The occafion of putting up this pidure, according to the in- 
 fcription under it, is as follows : This prieft, by birth a Dalmatian, lived 
 at the beginning of the fixteenth century, and had always entertained the 
 hi'^icii vtn&x2X\.on ior xhn Mddotma di Lorctfo ; being taken prifoner by 
 the Turks, and flrongly folicited to abjure the Chrillian religion, he not 
 only withftood their menaces and promifes, but to vex the infidels never 
 ceafed calling jipon the name of Chrifl and the virgin Mary, till he was 
 afked the reafon of fuch loud and continual invocations. His anfwer 
 was, that thofe names being engraven in the inmofl recefi"es of his heart, 
 he could not forbear it. And when they threatened to tear his heart and 
 entrails out of his body, if he did not immediately renounce ChrilT; and 
 Mary, he replied, that the firfi was in their power, but that it was im- 
 pofiible to take away Chrifl: and Mary from him. Upon this, the Turh 
 immediately put their threatenings in execution. The Dalmatian priefl: 
 in the midfl of his torture fl:ill perfifted in calling upon Mary with a loud 
 voice, and promifing a pilgrimage to Lorctto. As he lay expiring, they 
 put his heart and entrails, which they had torn out of him, into his 
 hands, farcaftically telling him, that he might now go and perform his 
 promife, and carry that offering to Loretto. 
 
 They had no fooner fpoke but the martyr immediately fet out with his 
 heart and entrails in his hand, and at length arrived at Loretto ; where 
 having fliewed his empty thorax and offered his entrails, C^c. and after 
 relating the whole affair and receiving the facrament, he died in an ec- 
 fl:acy of joy. The 'Jcfuit Terfeilini in^his Hijhria Lauretana, lib. ii. c. i 8. 
 adds, that thefe entrails hung a long time in the church as memorials of 
 the miracle j but, that decaying by length of time, a reprefentation of 
 them cut in wood was put in their place. Thefe wooden entrails how- 
 ever were afterwards removed by order of Faid III. becaufe the common 
 people began to entertain a greater veneration for them than even for the 
 virgin Mary herfelf. Terjillini's, words are, ^ia ridiicani homines Lau- 
 retanum tewpliim ingreffi, animis tali fpeSfaculo occupatis, Deparam Jegni- 
 ore cokbant curd i ta^idem ea [txiz-l tolli placidt. 
 
 Of
 
 L R E rr 0. 
 
 Of the many fabulous ftories related here with the greate/l air of 
 truth, many of which are made public in printed narratives, I fhall only 
 mention one more, concerning a votive piece fent hither from the Nether- 
 lands in the year 1586. This was a wax taper weighing three hundred 
 pounds. The donor of this remarkable gift was a Flcmifi officer in the 
 duke oi Parma s troops, who being once fent with eight others of the ca- 
 valry to reconnoitre the enemy, fell into an ambufcade, and was attacked 
 by a body of three hundred men, horfe and foot. Under fo vafl: a dif- 
 parity, the FlemiJIo officer addreffed himfelf to the holy virgin, who in- 
 fpired him and his handful of men with fuch courage and vigour, that 
 they not only maintained a fliarp acflion for two hours, till relief camej 
 but at laft entirely routed the enemy. In this hot adtion not one of the 
 nine heroes, nor even of their horfes received any wound. The votary 
 fent the above-mentioned taper to Loretto to burn there on certain days 
 before the Caja Santa ; and likewife a fum of money, the intereft of 
 which was to procure fuch another candle when this fhould be burnt 
 out, without fo much as mentioning his name ; which piece of humi- 
 lity may to fome appe ir no lefs extraordinary than his vid.ory *. 
 
 i'efirj. ' On the fouth fide of the great church ftands the veflry, which is pe- 
 
 culiarly appointed for thofe priefts who officiate in the holy houfe. The 
 
 Paintings. paintings in it are by Raphael, Andrea del Sarto, Parntigiano, Frede- 
 rlco Barocci, Giiido Rheni, Mutiano, Tintoretto., Paolo Veronefe, Teariniy 
 
 frea/tny. Schidom, Cantariuo, and Fanellt. Adjoining to this veftry is a large fa- 
 loon, the cieling of which was painted by Potnerancio, and the pavement 
 is inlaid with marble of various colours. This apartment contains a trea- 
 fure worth many millions, confifting of the moft valuable jewels and of- 
 ferings made to the virgin Mary, which are not ufed in decking out her 
 image. It is remarkable, that this prodigious treafure has been accu- 
 mulated within thefe three centuries ; for atl the gifts and donations 
 belonging to the Cafa Santa in the year 1470, amounted to no more 
 than fix thoufand ducats. Thefe jewels, &c. are kept in fhrines within 
 the wall, which are fecured with clofe grates, and cannot be viev\'ed 
 without aftonifliment. In the middle of each grate is the figure of a 
 cock. The ecclefiafliicks who attend on flrangers here, have a wand with 
 w^hich they point to every piece as they give an account of it : the fame 
 method is alfo obferved in the fancftuary of the holy houfe. To enumerate 
 every particular piece of this immenfe treafure would be almoftimpoffible j 
 and I believe it will be more to your fatisfacftion that I confine myfelf to 
 the mofl; remarkable curiofities to be feen here, which are as follows : 
 
 Moft rimarka- I. The crown and fceptre enriched with jewels, which queen Chrl- 
 
 '':lV\"ZtlT M"^y after her abdication of the throne of Siveden, brought hither and 
 otfered to the virgin Mary. 
 
 * Turfellinl, lib. \. c. 1%, 2. A
 
 L R E rr 0. 59 
 
 2. A golden crown fet with rubies, pearls, and diamonds, prefented 
 by a princefs of Ragotzi. 
 
 3. Two branches of coral near a foot and a half high. 
 
 4. A crown of lapis lazuli. 
 
 5. A crown of agat. 
 
 6. A robe which Jfahella a princefs of the houfe oi Bourbon^ and queen 
 to Fhilip IV. king oi Spain, bro«glit hither, and had fitted for the Ma- 
 donna diLoretto. It is enriched with fix thoufand fix hundred and eighty- 
 four diamonds. 
 
 7. An emerald four times as big as a man's head, in which, as in a 
 matrix, are to be feen a great many fmaller emeralds inclofed. For this 
 valuable natural curiofity, which was offered to the Virgin by Philip IV. 
 king of Spain, an RngliJIi gentleman offered ninety thoufand Jcudi, or 
 crowns. 
 
 8. In another fhrine is a very large amethyfl fet in gold, but not fo 
 big as the emerald before-mentioned. * 
 
 9. A chain of the golden fleece prefented by the fame king Philipy 
 which is fet with fo many fine rubies, pearls and diamonds, that it 
 deferves to be reckoned one of the mofl valuable pieces in this treafury. 
 
 10. A golden candleftick fet with rubies, opals, emeralds, pearls and 
 diamonds, weighing twenty-three pounds, and of very curious work- 
 manfhip, offered by prince Camillo Farnfili. 
 
 11. A crown fet with pearls and rubies, prefented by the above-men- 
 tioned princefs of Ragotzi. 
 
 12. A mifi"al, the cover of which is adorned with twelve large topazes, 
 given by Ferdinand II. great duke of Florence. 
 
 13. A pearl looked upon as invaluable, and the mofl extraordinary jewel 
 in this treafury ; nature itfelf (as is pretended) having delineated on it the 
 holy Virgin, fitting on a cloud, and holding the \nixntyefus in her arms. 
 To this art has contributed nothing, as pearls will not admit of it ;. 
 but it mufl alfo be allowed, that imagination rawd ftrongly afliil the 
 ^ye to make out any diflindt figure on it. However, this pearl (the do- 
 nor of which has out of humility concealed his name) is, by reafon of 
 its extraordinary fize, very valuable. Sir Hans Sloan oi London is pofl'efi'ed 
 of a fine pearl, to which feveral others are concreted in the form of a 
 bunch of grapes *. Pieces of marble plainly reprefenting Apollo and the 
 Mufes have been difcovered by the ancients. Pliny (HrjL Nat. lib. xxxvi. 
 
 * This is not the firft time our author has made mention of Sir Hans Sloa7i''s Mufeum r 
 and iiidtfcd the value and magnificency of it is fo great, that for feme time paft the learned 
 w'orld has been in expe£l:ation that an ait of parliament would pafs, to prevent the curi- 
 ofities in it from being difperfcd, after the deceafe of its worthy poffeflbr. [This mufeum, 
 after the death of Sir Ham Sloan has been purchafed by the public, according to acl of 
 parliament , and is nov/ called the Britijh Mufmm.\ 
 
 c, s-\
 
 40 L R E rf 0. 
 
 c. 5.) mentions a reprefentation of Silenus found in a block 0^ Parian 
 marble. 
 
 14. A pearl of the bignefs of a pigeon's tgg, prefented by the mar- 
 quis del Vajlo, one of the chief commanders under Charles V. 
 
 15. A piece of virgin gold, as it came out of the mine, weighing 
 eleven ounces. 
 
 1 6. A fet of altar furniture of amber, with ^ paliotto, &cc. fet with 
 between fix and {even thoufand pearls, belides diamonds and rubies, and 
 valued at two hundred thoufand crowns. This was fent as an offering 
 in the year 1639 hy Catbarifie Zamoifda dutchefs o£ 0/lrog, the high 
 chancellor of Poland's lady. 
 
 17. Another complete fet of altar-furniture, with a crucifix, the ca- 
 nopy, veflments, &f. all fet with coral, and prefented a few years ago by 
 prince Avelllfii of Naples. 
 
 18. The imperial eagle fet with diamonds. 
 
 19. The fame entirely made of diamonds, with a brilliant of an un- 
 common fize and luftre on the breaft, which is of the finefl water in the 
 whole treafure. This work, with the golden fleece appendant to it, 
 which is likewife enriched with valuable diamonds, is one of the finefl 
 pieces in the whole treafury, and was the offering of the emprefs Mary, 
 mother to the emperor Leopold I. 
 
 20. A fbip of gold, being a votive piece of a princefs of Mamfeldf, 
 who imagined, that by the affiflance of the virgin Mary, fhe was faved 
 in a fliipwreck. 
 
 21. The virgin's flatue of amber, on a pedeftal of gold. 
 
 22. A diamond weighing feventy-three grains, offered by prince 
 Carlo Doria. 
 
 23. Two filver candlefticks, one weighing a hundred and nine, the 
 other a hundred and twelve pounds, prefented by cardinal Paiilufi 
 dAltieri. 
 
 24. The imperial eagle, of gold, flying into the virgin Mary's lap, 
 enriched with diamonds and pearls, prefented in the year 1700 by 
 prince Vajlo. 
 
 25. Two golden candlefticks, inlaid with agat, chryfolite, /<7/>/^/^;o/(;//', 
 hyacinths, and topazes, of excellent workmanfhip, prefented two years 
 ago by Violanta Beatrix, hereditary princefs-dowager of Florence, of the 
 houfe of Bavaria,' on her coming to Loretto. 
 
 26. A filver ojlenforium, fo weighty as fcarce to be carried by a fingle 
 man, the gift of the fame princefs. 
 
 27. A large golden crucifix, enriched with fix fapphires of an extra- 
 ordinary fize, and a great number of diamonds, the offering of cardinal 
 dAaigna of Portugal. 
 
 28. The
 
 L R E r r 0. 41 
 
 28. The Pretender to the crown of Great Britain coming to Z-or^/Zo Pi"«tendei's 
 feme years fince with his lady, offered a golden angel about a foot [n"'^'"'''"^' 
 height; which the virgin fliould look upon as an inftancc of extraordinary 
 devotion, as he could but ill afford fuch coflly prefents. 
 
 29, 30. Two regal crowns, one enriched with pearls, the other larger, 
 and richly fet with diamonds, both tokens of the great refpedl which 
 the above-mentioned princefs Ragozzi bore to the virgin Mary. 
 
 31. A beautiful goblet oi lapis lazuli on an emerald fland, embelliflied 
 with three golden Syrens, eight diamonds, ten pearls, and twelve rubies: 
 the cover is of rock-cry flal fet with large rubies and diamonds. This 
 was the gift oi He?try III. of ir^wt:^, with a view of obtaining from the 
 mother of God an heir to his crown, as. is expreffed in theie words on 
 the pedeflal of the cup : 
 
 Ut quce prole tiid Mundiim Regina bed/li, 
 
 Et Regfiiim & Regem prole beare velis. 
 
 Henricus III. Franc. & Polon. Rex ChriJlianiJ. 
 
 Anno MDLXXXIF. 
 
 * That thou, O adorable queen, who haft blefTed the world by thy 
 
 * offspring, wilt be pleafed to blefs the king and kingdom with royal 
 ' IfTue, this is offered by his Moft Chriftian Majefty Henry III. king of 
 
 * France and Poland. J 584.' 
 
 This rich offering, however, did not procure the defired effed. 
 
 32. A filver ftatue, weighing a hundred and fifty-three pounds, given 
 by Adelaide eleftrefs of Bavaria. 
 
 33. A gold ring, fet with a moft beautiful emerald, put into the 
 oifering-box by a perfon unknown, with this billet faftened to it : 
 
 Virgo Singularisy 
 Mites Jac & cajlos, 
 O Amor, qui Jemper ardes. 
 Ft nunquatn extingueris 
 
 Accende me, 
 Sufcipe me Jervum tuum B. 
 
 * O Ihou, of virgins the moft extraordinary, render them mild and 
 ' chafte ; and thou, Love, whofe bright flames are never extinguifhed, 
 
 * inflame me, and accept thy fervant B.' 
 
 The meaning of this petition I leave to be unriddled by others. 
 Vol. III. G 34. A
 
 42 L R E t r 0. 
 
 34. A large golden heart, enriched with diamonds, in which is a re- 
 prcfentation of two diamond eyes of curious workmanfhip. Thefe were 
 the offerings of Cbriftina dutchefs of Savoy. 
 
 The number of fuch votive pieces fet with jewels is above three hun- 
 dred, exciufive of the fmgle jewels often fent or put into the box, with- 
 out mentioning the votary's name. 
 
 35/ A large filver altar. 
 
 36. The city and citadel oi Nancy in Lorrain, of filver chafed, three 
 fpans and a half in breadth, and betwixt five and fix in length. 
 
 37. The Bafii/e, in filver, fent hither by the prince of Condi , likewife a 
 reprefentation of the cities of Milan., Ferrara, Bologna, Afcoli, Fermo, 
 Recajiati, Ancona, Monte Santo, Sarnano, Saverne^ &c, alfo the entire 
 lordfhip of Montalto., all of filver, which I think may be called the 
 moft valuable geographical colledtion in the world. 
 
 Some part of it has been put into three other veftries, where are alfo 
 kept the twelve apoflles in filver, altogether weighing four hundred and 
 twenty-five pounds, or eight hundred and fifty marks, with an incre- 
 dible number of other filver and gold ftatues, ^c. The filver pieces 
 are not ufually fhewn to flrangers, as they make too mean an appearance 
 among the more coftly and valuable jewels ; although the prodigious 
 number of fuch pieces makes fome amends for the bafenefs of the 
 metal, when compared to the reft. 
 rotiw pieces If is, howcver, not improbable that a great number of tablets and 
 melted down, yotive pieccs, that make no great fliew, are continually melted down 
 and fent to- the mint. The fuperfluous jewels alfo, which are not em- 
 ployed in ornaments, are converted into money, for a better ufe ; efpe- 
 cially if they have been offered by perfons long fince dead; or, if from 
 other circumftances, no further enquiry after them is to be apprehended. 
 Church jenxiek This I know, that foreign jewellers find their account in vifiting the con- 
 clandefiineli yents in Italy, and get many a valuable jewel for a fmall fum of ready 
 edhymonhf' money, which the monks are very fond of; lecrecy being ftridly en- 
 Ac. joined on both fides. Poffibly in many convents, &c. the number of 
 jewels is kept up, and only an exchange is made of a fine ftone for a 
 lefs valuable one, with fome allowance. This is a kind of embezzlement 
 which a fliort fpace of time puts beyond the pofilbility of a detecftion. 
 Miracukus In the above-mentioned Sala del Teforo, on a ftone in the pavement 
 tiifco'vny of a js infcribed the date 1626, as a memorial of a thief, who, in that year, 
 *"'■'' found means to convey himfelf into this place, fo proper for him to 
 exercife his trade in ; but the pavement, as it is faid, Immediately opened, 
 and fwallowed him up to his waift, fo that being unable to ftir, he was 
 taken, and fuffered the punifliment of his intended facrilege. Others relate 
 this ftory with fome additional circumftances ; however, the defign of 
 
 them
 
 L R E r r 0, 43 
 
 tliem all is to deter people from any future attempt, by citing fuch 
 dreadful examples of judgments inflidted on the facrilegious. 
 
 The people of Loretto, whatever reafon they may have to depend 
 on the invifible protedion of the virgin Mary, efpccially as to what con- 
 cerns the treafury confecrated to her, do not think it advifable to put it 
 to the trial : for the window of the treafury is not only fecured with a 
 flrong grate, but the city is alfo fortified. Theie fortifications, accord- Fortifcaiionsi 
 ing to an infcription on one of the baftions, were built in the year 152 1, 
 in the pontificate of pope Leo X. and are indeed a fufficient fecurity 
 againft any fuddcn attack of pirates, hut otherwife of little importance ; 
 for in many places the houfes fupply the place of walls, 
 
 Loretto is generally without a garrifon, fo that it feems fomething The Tarks do 
 ftrange \\it Turks have not made greater efforts for getting into their '"' ^^"f''"?"""' 
 hands the precious booty kept there than they have hitherto done. It fii^ci majierl 
 can hardly be their reverence to the Virgin that retrains them ; though °/ Loretto. 
 the people of Lor^//o pretend, that even the Turks,in any extremity at fea, 
 often have recourfe to her, and exprefs their acknowledgments of her 
 affiftance by fending to Loretto very valuable prefents. The Rc;nan- 
 Catholics, indeed, affirm, that in all the attempts which the Turks have 
 hitherto made againfl Loretto, they have either been repelled by fome 
 extraordinary miracle, or mifcarried by a fupernatural panic. But all 
 thefe miracles have not produced fuch a confidence in the inhabitants as 
 to put the affair upon fuch an iffue ; the treafure being, upon the leall: 
 appearance of danger, fent away to Aucona, or fome other place of fe- 
 curity. General Lmigallerie and the count de Linange are highly cen- 
 fured, that, among all their enterprizes, which moflly turned upon 
 chimera's and impoffibilitles, they never thought of attacking Loretto. 
 But the reafon why the Turks do not make any formal attempt upon this Thirea/omf 
 place may probably be owing to the fhallownefs of the Adriatic, which "' 
 in thefe parts has not a fufficient depth of water for large fliips to ap- 
 proach the fhore. Befides, Loretto being three Italian miles from the 
 fea, and in an open country, no defcent can be made with fuch fecrecy 
 and expedition as not to alarm the whole neighbourhood, who are ready 
 to venture life and fortune in defence of their Virgin, and would be 
 foon in arms. The burghers of Loretto amount to above three hundred, 
 and the inhabitants in the town and the two fuburbs are reckoned to ex- 
 ceed feven thoufand j and a Turkijh fquadron is no fooner known to be 
 at fea, than a flrong garrifon is immediately fent hither. 
 
 In going out of the church, on the right-hand, is a flatue oi SixtusV, Statue of Six- 
 fitting on a pedeflal decorated on every fide with bajfo-relie'vo's, all of '"^ ^' 
 bronze, by Antonio Cakagni. In the great area before the church is a 
 beautiful marble fountain, made at the expence of PW V . to whom 
 
 G 2 the
 
 44- 
 
 L R E r r 0. 
 
 the town owes the fine water it receives, by means of an aquedud, froiti 
 a neighbouring hill. In the palace, which flands in this area, the clergy, 
 the officers of the holy houfe, and the governor of the town have apart- 
 ments, befides thofe appointed for perfons of diflindion, who come 
 hither upon pilgrimages. Here are alfo the wine-vaults belonging to 
 the Caja Santa, which are a hundred and fifty-eight common paces in 
 length, confiding of twelve apartments. In thefe vaults are generally 
 kept a hundred and forty large cafks of wines, one of which holds above 
 four hundred and twenty barrels, allowing ninty Paris chopi?ics to a bar- 
 rel. Another cafk contains three hundred and fixty-five barrels j and 
 out of it three forts of wine are drawn through one cock, viz. white, 
 claret, and a deep red wine. Over the wine-cellar are the kitchens, offices, 
 Gallipots nnd difpcnfary. In the latter are three hundred and fixty-eight galli- 
 R^h'^t' ^o\.s, mod of them very large and with covers, which are extremely va- 
 lued on account of the paintings on them, faid to be the work of the great 
 Raphael. The fubjeft of thefe paintings is a medly of dories taken from 
 the Scriptures, Roman Hidory, and Ovid's Metamorpbofis, &c. Thefe 
 pots were prefented by one of the dukes of Urbino, RaphaePs birth-place, 
 and is a coUeftion which the Italians never mention but with raptures : 
 they w^ould alfo fain make us believe, that one of the great dukes of 
 Florence offered to exchange them for filver pots of the fame bignefs. 
 For the four evangelids and St. Paul, Lewis XIV. o( France is faid to 
 have offered their weight in gold. Queen Cbrijli/ia of Sweden offered 
 fix thoufand fcudi for five others ; her majedy, as the dory goes, pre- 
 ferring this collection to all the other curiofities of Loretto, becaufe the 
 riched jewels, filver, gold, G?f. may be equalled, and confequently the 
 lofs of them may in fome meafure be repaired j whereas pots fo exqui- 
 fitely painted were not to be matched. That princefs is faid, on the re- 
 fufal of her offer, to have borrowed a very fine piece of porcelain -, but 
 never had the honour to return it. 
 Whether they If all thofc earthen veffels fhewn in different places, to which Ra- 
 were really phael's name gives a very confiderable value, were actually painted by 
 thael. "^ ^' *^^' mader, he mud have had Httle elfe to do. But probably there is 
 not a fino-le piece of that kind, done by him, extant ; unlefs perhaps a 
 few, which he painted by way of amufement in his younger years. Pof- 
 fibly Baitijia Franco, an ingenious Venetian painter, who, according to 
 Vafari, when he defigned for fuch porcelain veflels, drew from copper- 
 plates of the w^orks of Raphael and other celebrated maders, gave rife 
 to this midake. Something of that kind, however, may have been 
 done \yy' Raphael \\\vs\{t\^ ; for baron "Tallis of Venice has in his hands a 
 letter from that eminent artift, wherein he acquaints the dutchefs of 
 
 V'rbino^
 
 L R E r r 0. 45 
 
 XJrb'im, that he had finifhed the defigns which that prlncefs had defired 
 for a fide-board of porcelain *. 
 
 The arfenal is in one of the upper ftories, and is pretty well fur- ^ffi'"*^' 
 niflied. Among other votive pieces offered by pilgrims, here are feve- 
 ral arms ; among which is a fhort pillol made by one of the dukes of 
 JJrhino. Here is another piftol, prefented about two years fince by a 
 foreigner, which is hardly four inches long ; it is of mofl curious work- 
 manfliip, and carries a ball about the fize of a pepper-corn. Two 
 fmall field-pieces, faid to be taken, about two hundred years fince, from 
 the Turks, who had landed to pillage Loretto, are likewife flievvn here ; 
 and a large bomb charged. It is faid that the latter was concealed in a Story of aixmx 
 large wax taper fent by the Turks as an offering to the virgin for fome-^'^ ""■ 
 pretended deliverance, and that if it had burnt to the bomb, the whole 
 Cafa Santa would have been blown up ; but that by the miraculous 
 forefight of the virgin Mary this dreadful mifchief was prevented. One 
 clofet is full of prohibited weapons which have been offered to the 
 Virgin. 
 
 From the arfenal you afcend to the apartment where the bells given Sells. 
 by feveral Popes are hung. The largefl of thefe is called LorettOy and 
 weighs ten tons : it was the gift of Leo X. 
 
 The clergy here allow, that die annual revenue of the Cafa Santa, Therewnues 
 from lands and other fettled funds, amounts to twenty-nine or thirty "f"*','-*'^^""'"'-'' 
 thoufandy^z^^j'/, exclufive of prefents and offerings, which, from the re- 
 fort of many thoufands of votaries, muftbe very confiderable. However, 
 that the fuperftitious may not be wanting in their liberality, all kinds of 
 arguments are ufed by the clergy, both verbally and in print, to make 
 Grangers believe, that their neceffary annual expences exceed the fettled 
 yearly income by ten thoufand fcudi ; at the fame time intimating, that 
 it is the indifpenfible duty of every pious Chriftian to contribute. Ac- 
 cording to their computation, no lefs than fourteen thoufand pounds of 
 wax is every year confumed in the holy houfe and the church, which 
 quantity is valued at three thoufand two hundred and twenty jcudi. I 
 {hall not examine into the truth of this article, no more than that of 
 four hundred and twenty y?z/i//expended for lamp-oil : but other articles are 
 ftill more exaggerated, viz. the annual expence of maintaining the twenty 
 yefiiits, and other priefts, is faid to exceed the fum of five thoufand 
 fcudi ; the twelve canons fix thoufand ; and the other officers about 
 fixteen thoufand fcudi. The Collegium Illyricum, founded by Gregory XIII. 
 for the education of thirty Sclavonian youths in philofophy and divinity, 
 was, by order of Clement VIII. removed from hence to Rome. 
 
 * Vide D, VinunzQ Vittoria's Offirvazmi fopra il Libra Mia Fslfina Pittrice, Rom. 1703. 
 
 The
 
 46 L R E r r 0. 
 
 Iradeofthe ^e tfadc camcd on by the inhabitants o^ Lcrctto, befides what they 
 
 'l^^^^^l'^" °^ gti hy cnX.G:Yt2\n\v\g oi ^vzngexs, confirts in m;',agand felling medals, 
 
 crucifixes, images of the virgin Mary, paints: : riper caps, ribbons, rofa- 
 
 Defcription o/Hes, &c. which are bought by the credulou'. ; .ipifts as amulets. 
 
 the to'u.it of The walls o^ Loretto are about half an lu 'ia?2 mile in circumference, 
 
 Lorctto. ^^^ yield a delightful profpedl on one fitie of the fea and a beautiful 
 
 vale finely cultivated ; and on the other, of its elegant fuburbs, which 
 
 extend to Monte Reale along a ftrait broad road. About fun-fet in clear 
 
 weather the mountains of Croatia may be difcerned, though they are 
 
 a hundred and fifty Italian miles diftant from Loretto. 
 
 ■Ex/frtmnment 'p}^g ^^^ concourfe of foreigners necefTariiyoccafions a great confump- 
 
 tion of provifions at Loretto. The inn-keepers are for impofmg as much as 
 
 they can upon flrangers ; but the entertain:!. ent is here generally very good. 
 
 The inhabitants behave civilly to travellers ; and at the poft-houfes from 
 
 Rome to Bologna a perfon has a much better fort of people to deal with 
 
 than on the rout from Florence to Rome ; for their frequent converfatiofi 
 
 with ftrangers probably contributes to mend their manners. It is alfo 
 
 obferved, that the lower clafs of people are much more reafonable in 
 
 their demands, &c. from thofe travellers who return from Rome, than 
 
 from fuch as travel towards that city ; for they conclude that the latter 
 
 are ftrangers to the cufloms of the road, and therefore think it allowable 
 
 to take all advantages they can of the unexperienced. 
 
 The country about Loretto as well as the town itfelf fwarms with 
 beggars ; with whom it is cuflomary in fpring to flrew flowers in the 
 road when ftrangers approach, who cannot fee fuch an honour paid 
 them without giving a fmall gratuity in return for it. 
 Cirolo or At the diftance of a few Italian miles from Loretto towards A?icona, 
 
 Sciroio. ];gs the little town o^ Cirolo or Scirolo, famous for the refort of pilgrims 
 on account of a miraculous crucifix. It is a common faying here, Cbi 
 e andato a Loreto, e non a. Cirolo, ha vifto la madre, e ha lafciato il figU- 
 olo ; i. e. ' Whoever goes to Loretto and not to Cirolo vifits the mother, 
 ' and takes no notice of the fon.' But in reality this is only another in- 
 vention to drain the pilgrims purfes. The votive pieces to be feen here are 
 very inconfiderable ; and a traveller who goes to Cirolo only out of cu- 
 rjofity, will find that he has quitted the road to little purpofe. The wine 
 of this country is very good ; and pofTibly may be that which Pliny (Hiji. 
 Nat. lib. xiv, c. 6.) clafi'es among the heft Italian wines, under the name 
 of Vinum Anco?iitanum ; but the wine now made at Ancona and in the 
 neighbourhood of it is but very indifferent. 
 CioWiar Before I clofe my account o^ Loretto, I mufl obferve, that at certain times 
 
 ^aim. of the year, the fea throws up globular ftones here, the origin of which 
 
 I cannot venture to account for, though poflibly the roundnefs of them 
 5 n^ay
 
 A N C N A. 
 
 may be owing to the agitation of the waves : it muft however be ac- 
 knowledged, that there are izvtxA Jlrata of the earth, remote from the 
 fea, in which an infinite number of round ftones are to be found ; par- 
 ticularly about half a mile from Helm/iadt, near the convent of St. Ma- 
 rienthal in the iron mines in the country of Wirtemberg, and according 
 to Agricola, near Polcnza in the kingdom of Naples, where there are 
 many fuch ftones to be feen of the fize of a cannon ball. 
 
 LorettOy April ly^o. lam. Sec. 
 
 47 
 
 LETTER LXIII. 
 
 Account of Afjcona^ and feveral kinds of Fifhes in tlie 
 Adriatic Sea ; of Senigalliay Fano, Pefaroy Rimini, the 
 River Riibico?i ; alfo of the towns of Cefena and Cervia. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 TH E diftance from Loretto to Ancona is fifteen Italian miles j and 
 the road lies through a charming plain interfered by the rivers 
 Mufone and Afpido. Here I cannot but obferve, that in no other chain 
 of mountains fo many fources of brooks and rivers are to be found as on 
 the eaft fide of the Appenines. 
 
 Ancona is badly built on an uneven fituation, from which it derives its Ancona; 
 name, which is of Greek original. Over one of the gates are thefe words : 
 
 Alma Fides, Proceres, i)eftram qua condidit Urbem, 
 Gaudet in hoc Jocid vivere Pace loco. 
 
 ' Fair probity, which built this city, delights to afiTociate with peace 
 * on this happy fpot.' 
 
 The cathedral ftands on an eminence, and affords a delightful profped Cathe^raL 
 of the town, and along the fea coaft. In the portico before the church 
 are two remarkable pillars refting on two marble lions. This church 
 wants light extremely. 
 
 This
 
 Je^^.^s. 
 
 Exchange. 
 
 Triiimpha! 
 arch. 
 
 48 A N C N A. 
 
 Tortifications. Th'is City befides its out-works is alfo fortified with a citri'^el ; hut nei- 
 ther of them is fufficienc to hold out againft an army, Tlie haibour is 
 
 Harbour. vcry commodious * ; but the trade is inconfiderable, which is generally 
 the cafe in every part of the papal dominions : perfons of all religions 
 are on an equal tooting here, only they are not allowed the public exer- 
 ciie of their religion. The Jcivs are very numerous in Ancona ; how- 
 ever they live in a particular quarter, and are obliged by way of d.ftinc- 
 tion to wear a bit of red cloth in their hats. Their fynagogue is an ob- 
 long edifice with an arched roof, and is illuminated with feveial lamps. 
 The exchange has a beautiful front, and over the entrance is an equef- 
 trian flatue, (£c. Within it i^ a lofty fpacious apartment, in which, 
 among other ftatue?, are thofe of Kz/'/Z', Hope, Charity znA Religion. The 
 harbour is fecured by a flrong mole ; and near it is a triumphal arch, 
 ereded by the Rotncin fenate to the emperor Trajan, Plotina his confort, 
 z.x\^Marciana his filler, in gratitude for the great improvement made in this 
 harbour by that emperor, at his own expence. This arch was formerly 
 ornamented with great numbers of brafs ftatues, trophies and infcrip- 
 tions; and confequently muft have made a quite different appearance 
 from what it does at prefent. The fculpture being cut on the large pieces 
 of marble with which the arch is built, was not fo liable to be demo- 
 liflied, and could not be carried away j fo that this arch was more mag- 
 nificent, and calculated for a longer duration than moft other monuments 
 of antiquity of this kind. The marble for building this arch was brought 
 from the ifland of Paros, and is fo clofely compacted, that the whole 
 feems to confift only of one block. On both fides are four fluted pil- 
 lars of the Corinthian order ; and over the front towards the city is this 
 ancient infcription : 
 
 Ancieaf . in. Imp. Ccefari. Divi. Nerva. F. Nervce 
 
 jcriptim. Trajano. Optimo. Aug. Germaiiic. 
 
 Dacico. Pont. Max. Tr. Pot. XFIIII. Imp. IX. 
 Cos. VI. P. P. ProvidentiJ/tmo. Priiicipi, 
 
 Senatus. P. ^ R. quod, accejfum. 
 Italia, hoc. etiam. addito. ex. peainia.fua. 
 Porta, tutiorem, navigarrtibm. reddiderit. 
 
 Betwixt the pillars on the front oppofite to the city, and on the right 
 fide of the arch are thefe words : 
 
 * There is a common faying in praife of the harbour, w'z. Unus Petrus eji in Roma -.una 
 Turris in Creynona ; unus Portus in Ancona ; i. e, ' The only Peter is at Kome ; the only 
 ^ tower is at Cremona^ and the only harbour at Ancona.^ 
 
 Plotinee.
 
 A N C N A, 49 
 
 And on the left 
 
 Aug. 
 Conjiigi. Aug. 
 
 Marclarue. 
 Sorori. Aug. 
 
 The head of the mole is fortified, and eight or ten guns are gene- 
 rally mounted on it. There is a kind of wooden cover over it, fupported 
 in the center by a long pole fixt in the ground. 
 
 The inhabitants of Anconay efpecially the female fex, fo far excel thofe r'-^^^y •>/ the 
 of the other parts oi Italy in fhape and complexion, that they feem. ^o'^^^^^'^"''J^ 
 be quite a different race of men. The fame may be obferved of the in- /« Wjxj/ cw. 
 habitants beyond Sencgallia, Fa?20, and Pefcaro as far as Rimi?ii. If it be'"^- 
 true that the refort of young gentlemen to the univerfities, and the nu- 
 merous retinue of a Court, greatly contribute to render Leipfick, Hally 
 and Drejdtm, as it were, the nurferies of fine women j the fuperior beauty 
 of the female fex at Fano, Ancona, &c. may likewife be attributed to the 
 great number of flrangers and pilgrims continually traveUing through 
 tiiofe cities. 
 
 The eaflern part of Italy is much more fertile and pleafant than mofl Eaf.ern confi 
 parts on the weft fide; efpecially if the coaft from Genoa to Leglwn bc"-^ •*'' 
 included. The whole Adriatic fea abounds in teftaceous and other kinds 
 of fifli. A fingular fpecies of the former are the Ballani or Ballari found J^'^'V'n fiJ^ 
 alive in large ftones. The fhell of this fiHi is thin, rough, and of an oblongyj'^^^ 
 figure : it is not unlike a date ; hence they are called Dattili del Mare, Ballani, or 
 or fea-dates. They are chiefly found in the lliallows near Monte Comero Dattili del 
 or Conaro, about ten Italian miles from Ancona. There is alfo a kind ^ ^^^' 
 of clay found there very much refembling brown earthen ware, and like- 
 wife feveral kinds of porous ftones. Within the fmall interftices or pores 
 of thefe ftones and clay-clods, the fpawn or fry of thefe Ballani are lodged. 
 Here they are provided both with air and water, whilfl; by their motion 
 they gradually abrade the ftone in which they are inclofed ; and thus 
 make themfelves room for their growth. The clay is hard within ; but 
 as it is continually moiftened by the fea-water, the outfide is foft. Since 
 the inhabitants oi Ancona have obferved that xhs Ballari, taken up in their 
 harbour, were larger than thofe of the Monte Conaro, they generally fetch 
 them in boats from thence, and lay them within the mole; where, by 
 the reft and nutriment which they enjoy from the depth and fliminef's of 
 the bottom, they foon come to perfedion. In fidnng for Ballari, fuch 
 ftones are chiefly picked up as have the furface full of little holes ; that 
 
 Vol. III. H being
 
 s® 
 
 A N C N A. 
 
 being a certain fign thefe fidies have infinuated themfelves into them. 
 Sometimes the aperture through which the fpawn of the fifh penetrated 
 into the ftone happens to be afterwards flopped up or covered with 
 flime, io that it is not difcernable, and yet the tiih thrives very well. In 
 breaking fome of thefe flones taken up in tlie harbour, I have found 
 twenty or thirty live filli in a ftone, though not the leaft fiflure or open- 
 ing was to be obferved on the outfuie ; they always lie in a little cavity, 
 which allows them no more room than is juft necefTary for opening their 
 ihcU a little way, probably to take in the air, and moifture or nourifti- 
 ment. The only way of getting them out of the ftone is by breaking 
 it; for the paflage through which they entered, is much too fmall, even 
 for the young fry to come out at. If two or more of thefe fliells by their 
 growth happen to come in contadt with each other in the fame ftone, only 
 one fifli is found alive. Their propagation and encreafe may in fome mea- 
 fure be explained by obferving how butterflies, fpiders, cfff. lay their eggs 
 in galls, or excrefcencies of oak leaves. As to the pofition of the Ballaniy 
 it IS not always exaftly in the middle of the ftone; however the thickeft 
 part of their body which attradls moft nutriment is generally fartheft 
 from the furface. The infide of the ftiell is white, but the outlide is of 
 an afh colour : the largeft of thofe found at Ancona are not much above 
 a finger in length. When they are taken out of the ftone, a gut, re- 
 fembling a worm, of the length of one's finger hangs to them, like that 
 of the Solenes or Cappe Longhe, as they are called at Venice. This is en- 
 tirely white and full of clear water, which it fquirts out when prefled. 
 Thofe perfons that find a particular delicacy of tafte in them, fay, that the 
 Ballard do not feed on the grofs parts of the fea water, but as it were on the 
 fubtile dew that penetrates through the ftone, and thus undergoes a kind of 
 filtration. Both the nfli and the juices of it are fo luminous in the dark 
 that one may fee to read by it ; and even water in which this fifh has 
 -been Iqeczed, when put in a glafs, emits an efiiilgence which lafts from 
 eight to twelve hours. But this phenomenon is nothing extraordinary, 
 as frefli oyfters when opened, and whitings have alfo fomething of a 
 lucid appearance in the dark. 
 
 It muft be in a great meafure owing to cuftom, that the Ballani 
 are reckoned fo palatable : however great quantities of them are fent to 
 .Rome, where they are reckoned boccone di Cardinale, or dainties fit for 
 a cardinal. There is alfo a fpecies of this fifh found near Civita Vccchia, 
 and like wife near Narbonne'm Fratice. Some naturalifts call them Pholides 
 or Pbolayfrom a Greek word, fignifying a thing concealed*. In the diftricft 
 of Ancona, the ftones in which they are found are called Ea[}i del balhro, 
 
 * The Greek word ^o^?, in the plural number fioAiJf;, fignifies the fcale of a fifh ; fo that 
 there is a miftake in the etymology above, 
 
 1 Oyfters
 
 A N C N A. 
 
 5^ 
 
 Oyfters arc preferved here alive in fea-water for feveral years. At AnconaOyJiers. 
 they are indeed very large ; but flabby, and far from being palatable. Here 
 is alfo a kind of fea craw-fi/li, called Nocchia, in appearance like thofe Nocchia. 
 called lobfters in TLngland ; but of a more delicate flavour. Their claws 
 are lefs than thofe of craw-fifli, and the head and tail of a very uncom- 
 mon fliape. The largefl: of this fpecies is about four inches long : this 
 filh is by fome called Squilla arenaria. 
 
 Among other remarkable fea-animals found in the harbour of ^W(7;2<7 7'/^<^ Sepi. - 
 and the Adriatic, is a fifh called the Scpi *, which has a longifli white 
 fliell on its head. Thefe lliells are often found along the ihore, and 
 when pulverized, are ufed for cleaning of plate. 
 
 Here is alfo the univalve fliell-fi(h, which in Z(7//7Z is called P^/^//^, '^■^<' Patella, 
 and adheres to the rocks. Through the fmall aperture in its convex 
 IhcU it expels its excrements. 
 
 The mme o^ Patella major h by fome given to thofe fhells, which, 9''^"^"^'"*- 
 on account of their variegated lufl:re refembling that of mother-of-pearl, ""^' 
 are very much ufed in the decoration of grotto's and water-works : but 
 their more common name here is Qrecchia marhia, and they are found 
 not only in the Adriatic, but Neapolitan feas. The fpiral tubes obferved 
 in thefe fliells ferve for imbibing the water. 
 
 Another fmall fpecies of fhell-fifli are thrown in great quantities Bavarazzi del 
 upon this fliore, which feem to be infcribed with Arabic charaders. "''"^' 
 There is fuch an infinite variety in this fpecies, I am apt to think two 
 of thefe Bavarazzi del Mare, as they are called, could not be found that 
 are perfcdlly alike. 
 
 The Solenes, Fiftida, Canales, or U?igiies, as they are called in 'Latin, Solenes. 
 from the colour or fliape of the fhell, refemble the handle of a razor ; 
 and at Venice are known by the name of Cappe lofighe ; but at Ancona 
 they are called Camiolichii, or Pefci Canelle. Thefe are alfo found in 
 many parts of the Mediterranean. 
 
 The Concha Rhomboides, or Mufcidus Sfriatus, Mitzdus, alfo called ^''^^ ^°^- 
 Area Noce, is a fliell covered with filaments like hair or wool. 
 
 The Nautilus fubtilis, which is diftinguiflied by the name of Polypo Polypo Mof- 
 Mofcardino, is as white as the fineft writing paper. cardmo. 
 
 The Noce gcntili di Mare, or Niices Marina, are of the bivalve kind, Noce di 
 flriated, and have a brown border. The finefl of thefe foecies are ^^^'^^' 
 found on the coafts of Africa. 
 
 The Chiocciola celata is a fliell refembling mother-of-pearl. It is Chiocciola 
 rough within, and is fecured with a cartilaginous cover adhering to it, "lata. 
 like the nail of a man's finger. This is common almofl to all the 
 
 • Probably a fpecies of the Sepia, or Cuttle-fifh. 
 
 H 2 'furbinafa
 
 52 
 
 A N C N A. 
 
 'turh'tJiatdP, which, on this account, may be reckoned among the Tejhicca 
 
 Bivahia. The Surface is Iinooth and varig-ated with red and brown, and 
 
 marked with a fpiral Hne. The above-mentioned cartilaginous cover is 
 
 Occhi di S. j-,-^i]g(^^ m PtizzuGio, Occhi d'l pefce, fi(hes eyes; and in other places, 
 
 Occbi di S. Lura, UmMici, Bellicali, and Pietre di Margarita. 
 Turbinate. Xhe T'cjlacca T^nrbiuata hkewile abound in the Adriatic. To this 
 Purpmis. ^lafg belong the Purpuras Rcbinatii;, or T'urbinata, VermicuJata, and 
 Cbermifmce, &c. The laft name is faid to be derived from Che-rmi, an 
 ancient town in Sardifiia, where wool is faid to have been firft dyed 
 of a cramoiji, or crimfon colour, with the red juice or blood of this 
 
 Exten/fve xhc wotd fiirpTireiis among the ancients was of a very comprehenfive 
 
 ^^^^T^JpJ'^ meaning, and denoted any vivid and bright colour; fo that it has been 
 reus ^(/w?j^ //;'^ applied even to fnow '^. One fpecies of the above-mentioned T^iirbinatce 
 ancteiits. jg ^^^j. ^j^jy. guarded with aculei, or prickles, at the opening ; but even 
 the intervals betwixt its volutations are fo full of them, that this kind is 
 Purpura acu- very properly C'SiWcA purpura aadeata, which anfwers to the name Scon- 
 leata. ciglio Spi?iofo, as it is called by the Neapolitans. 
 
 Jacob's fhells. In the jldriatic are likewife found the fpecies called 'Jacob-Jhelh, or 
 PeSJincs, Ctenites 2.nA Conchites Jlriati : one half of the fhell is almoft 
 plain and fmooth, and the other convex ; this is ufed in Hallaiid, and 
 other places for ftewing oyfters. 
 Turbulara The Tabulara Purpurea, Spongia rubra, or the Alcyonium Mikfium, 
 
 Purpurea. jg found here in very large pieces at a great depth in the fea. It is of a 
 beautiful colour, and refembles red coral ; which has induced fome natu- 
 ralifts, though improperly, to clafs it among corals. This mafs is pro- 
 perly nothing but a congeries of feveral thoufands of fine tubes, which 
 ferve for nefls and receptacles to a certain fpecies of fmall worms. 
 fucusCapil- Here are feveral fliells covered with filaments of a dark brown co- 
 '^"'' lour, not unlike coarfe hair. This is called Funis Capillaris, and is fre- 
 
 quently a foot or a foot and a half in length, when taken off the fliell. 
 Pilx marina. The P;7(« Tl-f^^/W lie alfo very thick along this fhore. Thefe feem 
 
 to be only a mafs compofed of flime, &c. 
 Capricciofe. Among the fmaller kinds of fliells found here, are feveral of fiich a 
 lingular, and, as it were, grotefque figure, that they cannot properly 
 be ranged among the common claffes ; and therefore the Italians give 
 them the name of Capricciope. 
 Pimije. The largeft fliell-fifh found on this coaft are the Pinna, or Pernce, 
 
 fo called from the refemblance they bear to a gammon of bacon. The 
 
 • Alhlnovanm ad L'lviam. - - purpurea fub nne terra latct. ' The dazzling fnow conceals 
 * the earth.' Horace gives fwans the epithet of purpurei, as Catullus does the oaken 
 branches ; and Anacreon calls Venus vofipv^a 'Af^M, i. e. ' effulgent Venus.' 
 
 outfide
 
 A N C N A. ^z 
 
 outfide of their fliell is red, at)d at the acute angle of it generally grows 
 
 a byjfi's ma?-i/ius to the length of five or fix inches. The fliell itfelf 
 
 is two feet in length; and from its largenefs and fhape, it might be ty^ »//„«; 
 
 of fervice to thofe Indian nations who are faid to cover their houfes with A^/-'- 
 
 the fliells of filh* 
 
 The fea near Ancona is obferved to ebb and flow about a foot, or a Ehb an>i flood 
 foot and a half; which phenomenon gradually abates z.^ ihe Adriatic'" '^" ^'^'^^' 
 approaches to its junilion with the Mediterranean, and increafes in its 
 northern part towards the city of Venice. 
 
 The town of Senegaglia, fo called from the founders of it the Galli Senegagiia. 
 Senones, lies on the fea-coaft, about fixteen Italian miles from Ancona 3 
 but has nothing worth the obfervation of a traveller of tafle. Betwixt 
 the river Mija, which runs ihorugh this town, and the little ftream of 
 Ccfcino, are feme ancient ditches marking the limits of the Roman camp ; Roman raw^. 
 and on the other fide of the Cefano fome antiquarians imagine they have 
 difcovered the traces of the Carthaginian camp. So far, however, it is 
 certain, that Afdrubal (whofe name a neighbouring mountain flill bears) Afdrub.nl, 
 brother to the renowned Hcmnibal, loft both his army and life in a battle '^hereflain. 
 fought in thefe parts -|-. 
 
 The diftance from Senegaglia to Fano is two pofls, or fixteen Italian Fano. 
 miles. Thofe who would perfuade the world that the country about 
 the latter is the fineft Ipot in ail Italy, certainly do a great injury to many 
 other parts of it. Fano derives its name from ^Faniim, or temple oi Fortune, 
 which anciently ftood here. In commemoration of this, the image of 
 Fortune is not only erected on the fountain in the market-place, but has 
 alfo a place in the coat of arms of the town. The greatefl: curiofity here 7-,./,„ww- 
 is a triumphal-arch built of marble, which, after having withftood the arc A. 
 injuries of time, ZSc. till the year 1458, was then very much damaged 
 by the cannon during the fiege of this town. This arch had formerly 
 three gates ; but the fmalleft on the left-hand in coming from the town 
 has been pulled down, to make room for St. Michaels church, and the 
 other is flopped by a mean houfe ; fo that the middle gate is now the 
 
 * Pi'lcr Adartyr, lib. iv. Dec, 3. relates, that fome nations in India make the fame ufe 
 of thefhells of fifh z^Jdimi and^y^'did of fig-leaves, a^ repiefentcd in the common pidiires. 
 Others polifh them from the coarfe opaque cruft, and make tranfparent panes for windows 
 of them, as may be feen in Sir Ham Sloanis mufeum at London. At the Houfe in theJVcod, 
 near the Hague, is an oyfler-fliell of fuch a large fize, as to ferve as a bafon for a foun- 
 tain. At Goa an oyfter of prodigious fize was once accidentally drawn up with an anchor ; 
 and the fifli, exclufive of the Ihell, weighed ab:5ve a hundred pounds. The two fhells of 
 it are now in tiie royal mufeum at Copenhagen, each of which weighs about two hundred 
 and twenty-four pounds. The circumference of them is about eight feet and a half, and 
 the longed diameter near five. In the above-mentioned mufeum. of Sir Hans Sloane is a 
 prickly oyfter-fliell, which is feven common fpans in its grealeft Diameter. 
 
 t Vide Livii Hiji. ad fmenu 
 
 only
 
 ^4 A N C N A. 
 
 only one open, and over the arch of this not fo much as the ox-head, 
 which was formerly placed there, is left {landing. Some of the infcrip- 
 tions are over-run with weeds, and others effaced by time. However, 
 thev are copied under a Iketch of the triumphal arch itfelf, which is cut 
 in the wall of the above-mentioned church of St. Michael. 
 Over this reprefentation of the arch are thefe words : 
 
 Effigies _ . ■. .. 
 
 Infcripuom. Arcus ah Aiigiijlo ere£li, pofteaque tormcnth ex parte diruti bello Pii II. 
 
 contra Faneti. Ann. M. CCCC. LXIII. 
 
 ' A reprefentation of the triumphal arch eredled by -.^z^gw/^r/i', part of 
 * which was afterwards demoliilied by cannon in the war of Pius II. 
 ' againft the inhabitants oi Fano, in the year 1463.' 
 
 On the upper part, where feven windows or doors are to be feen, is 
 this ancient infcription : 
 
 Divo Augujlo Pio ConftaiUino Patri Domino. ^ 
 
 And underneath : 
 
 Imp. C(efar. Divi. F. Augnftus. Pontifex. Maximus. CoJ. XIII. Tribu- 
 nitia. Potejl. XXXII. Imp. XXVI. Pater. Patria, Murum. dedit. 
 
 Ct'ira?ite. L. Tiircio. Seciindo. Aproniani. Prof. Urb. Fil. AJlerio. V. C. 
 Corr. Flam. &. Piceni. 
 
 Fitnrjius fays, that this city took the name of Julia Fane/Iris, m 
 memory o( Angu/lus, who built the walls of it; whereas before, accord- 
 ing to Pompouius Mela, it was called Colojiia Fanejlris. 
 Cathuirai. -^n the cathedral of Fa?io are to be feen fome admirable Paintings re- 
 
 prefenting the Annunciation, the Lord's-fupper, and the Gathering of 
 Manna, by ^ierci?2i ; likewife the AfTumption of the virgin Mary, by 
 Caraccicli. In the chapel of the virgin Mary are the fifteen myfteries of 
 the Rofary, painted by Fiomenichino. 
 St. ?etet's St. Peters church likewife deferves notice, for its fine paintings, fculp- 
 
 (i>«nb. tnre, and cupola. On the high altar are two angels of white Carrara 
 
 marble, by an eminent hand. The pifture of Chrilt delivering the 
 keys to Peter, is by Guido Rheni. On each fide of it are the raifing of 
 Tabitha from the dead by a Fleming ; and St. Peter curing the lame man, 
 by Simone Ca?itari?ji, who was called Pefarefe, 
 
 A noble-
 
 •-.f 
 
 Urban \ III. 
 
 A N C N A, 55 
 
 A nobleman, of the name oi 'Torelli ,h\\\\i on the market-place •^AFano^heatte. 
 a very elegant theatre for exhibiting comedies and opera's, which is made 
 ufe of in carnival-time. 
 
 Pejaro lies about eight Italian miles from Fano. Here is a fountain Peraro. 
 of mineral waters which though its jet d'eau is nothing extraordinary, \q,^^<^'^'"'"'^ 
 very convenient for the inhabitants, and ornamented in a good tafte. 
 In its upper bafon, wiiich is in the form of a drinking-glafs, are feveral 
 fea-goddeffes and fea-horfes, which fpout water out from above thirty 
 different apertures. On one fide of it are thefe words : 
 
 Pifauri Patritii cere piihlico. 
 
 ' By the contribution of the nobility of Pefaro.' 
 
 And on the other, the names of thofe under whofe diredlion the 
 work was completed. 
 
 On the great market-place is a ftatue of pope Urban VIII. in a fitting ■^f'''''^ 
 attitude, with the following infcription on one fide of the pedeftal : 
 
 VRBANO Fin. P. O. M. 
 
 Civitas Pijcmrenjis 
 Per egregia ejus prudentice confilia 
 Citm univerfa ad Metauriim ditione. 
 Inter fltirimas difficult ates, f.ne ftrepitii armorumj 
 Ad Scdis ApoftoUcce dominationem revccata, 
 Prceclaro conftanftice ac moderationis exemplo 
 Sandlas PrcedeceJJ'orum leges conjirmante ; 
 Mox prater alia plurima benejicia 
 t ' Libirali condcJtatione 
 
 Sexaginta millium aureoriim obJiriSia, 
 Grati animi monumentum. 
 
 * This was ereded as a monument of gratitude to Urban VIII. the 
 
 ' greatefl: and bed of popes, by whofe wifdom and prudence the city 
 
 ' of Pejaro., together with the whole country as far as the river Metaro, 
 
 ' was again recovered without the violence of war, though amidft many 
 
 ' difficulties, to the dominion of the apoftolic fee. The fame gracious 
 
 ' fovereign, by an illuftrious example, both of firmnefs and moderation, 
 
 * confirmed the facred laws enaded by his predeceflbrs, and among fe- 
 
 * veral other ads of munificence, remitted a tribute of fixty thoufand 
 
 * crowns of gold that was due to him from the inhabitants of this city.' 
 
 On
 
 56 A N C N A. 
 
 On the other three fiJes are infcriptions in honour of cardinal Bar- 
 berini the Pope's legate, Gff. 
 F^irtipations. Pefciro is a large wcU-huilt city; but its fortifications are but very in- 
 conuderable, though itt forth with fuch pomp of exprefTion in the fol- 
 lowing infcription over the Rimhii gate : 
 
 GUIDUS VB ALDUS DUX URBINI IIII. hofllum pallori acpavori, 
 cppidanorim Q fuorum jaluti atque crnammto Pijauri amplificatd circum- 
 77ninitione, quam a Je prius cxcogitatam Francifcus Maria Pater ob vita 
 brcvifatan vix inckoatain reliqiiit, paternis veftigiis priidentijjime inharem 
 adrairabiU Jliuiio ac diligentia. perjecit. M.D.LXIF. 
 
 ' Giddo Ubaldi, fourth duke of Urbino, having, to the dread and ter- 
 
 * ror of his enemies, the fafety of his fubjeds, and the ornament of Pefaro, 
 ' enlarged its fortifications, and compleatcd with admirable diligence and 
 ' Jhill the plan laid by his glorious father FrauceJ'co Maria, whofe un- 
 
 * timely death fcarce permitted him to fee the beginning of this public 
 
 * work. 1564.' 
 
 Pefaro y%i. The Pcfaro figs are accounted the befl: in all Italy., and even preferred 
 
 to thofe of Sdavonia. 
 Poggiolmpe- Poggio Imperiak., an ancient pleafure-houfe of the dukes of Urbino^ 
 riale. ftands on a hill about an Italian mile from Pefaro, and is furniflied 
 
 with fome good paintings by Genga. Here is alfo a fine orangery. 
 
 Along the coafl:, as far as Pefaro, the country wxars an agreeable af- 
 peftj but the foil and road are none of the beft, the latter being very 
 fandy for the laft ftage. 
 D'fjifionofthe From Ptj/^ro you enter into a fine corn country, divided into fquare 
 dittchyofXit- inclofures by rows of trees interwoven with vines. This whole trad of 
 '"''■ land belongs to the dukedom of Urbino, which the Popes, on the demife 
 
 of the laft duke Francefco Maria di Rovere in 163 i, without male ifiiie, 
 have found means to get into their hands. The faid duke by his will 
 figned in 1626, had confirmed the papal claim, and in effed previoufly 
 renounced his own title. But Vitloria, daughter to his fon Frederico 
 Ubaldi, who died before him, and wife to Fcrdiiiand II. great duke of 
 Tifcany (to whom flie was married in the year 1631, W'hen flie was but . 
 eight years of age) obtained the allodial part of the dutchy, whence it 
 cotnes to pafs that Poggio Imperiale and fome other places in thcfe parts 
 belong to the ducal family of Florence. 
 
 About an Italian mile from Catholica, which is feven miles difliant 
 from Pefaro, the road crofles a canal by means of a bridge of one arch ; 
 however in dry weather there is not a drop of water to be feen under 
 
 this
 
 F A N 0. sy 
 
 this bridge, though there Is a mofl oflentatious infcrlption cut In marble 
 on it in honour of cardinal Altieri. It begins as follows : 
 
 Clemente X. P. 0. M. 
 
 Torrenti crebris alluvionibus tumidoy 
 
 AuSlo ingentibm prcedis, 
 
 Cladibus editisjormidabiliy 
 
 Pont em hunc opere magnijico jiixta & commodo viator ibus 
 
 Pietate proximi Jubilcei Romam advocatidis 
 
 Palutius Cardinalis Alterius S. R. E. Corner ^^ 
 
 Imponetidum aere fuo curavit. Ami. Dotn. 
 
 MDCLXXIK 
 
 * Over this torrent, fwelling with frequent floods, driving heaps of 
 ' ruins along its rapid ftream, and formidable for itsnumberlefs devaluations, 
 ' Paluti, cardinal Alteri, &c. has, at his own expence, built this bridge ; 
 ' a work, which befides its grandeur affords convenience and fafety to 
 ' thofe whom devotion fhall incite to vilit Rome at the approaching ju- 
 * bilee. 1674.' 
 
 CathoUca is a village fo called from the orthodox bifliops, who in the Catholica 
 year 359 withdrew to this place from the council of Rimini , where they X^ArhnT, 
 had been out-voted by the Arians. This remarkable tranfadion is com- 
 memorated in the following infcrlption on the wall, and not far from 
 the entrance, of the church. 
 
 Anno reparatce Saliitis CCCLIX. 
 
 Liberia Pont. Max. Conjlatitio Imp. 
 
 Cum Heereticorum fraudibus ingemijcens Or bis t'errariim 
 
 Se AriaJium ejfe miratm eft. 
 
 Ex quadringentis Epifiopis ad Syuodum Ariminenfem ccnvocatis 
 
 Pcrpauci orthodoxi in hunc locum ventitantes, 
 
 Ut feorjim ab Arianis facra facerent, 
 
 Et CathoUca cotnmunione Catholicos impertirent, 
 
 Occafionejn prakuerunt, ut vicus ipfe CathoUca nuncuparetur. 
 
 Cujus nominis rationem ac totius rei gejlce memoriam 
 
 Cafar Cardinalis Barotiius Annalibus Ecck/iajiicis injeruity 
 
 Bernardimis Cardinalis Spada 
 
 Ad peregrinantium pietatem erudiendam 
 
 Amoremqiie fuum erga patriam provinciam teftandum 
 
 Hoc pofito marmore indicavit. Ann. Dom. 
 
 M. DC. XXXVII. 
 
 Vol. III. I ' la
 
 58 RIMINI. 
 
 ' In the year of the Chrlftian /Era 359, in the reign of the cm- 
 
 * peror Coa/ianihis, and the pontificate of Libcrius, when the whole world, 
 
 * with grief and furprize faw itlelf through the craft of herefy, infedled 
 
 * with the errors of Arianifm ; out of four hundred bifliops aflembled at 
 ' the council of Rimni, very few were found orthodox, who by frequently 
 
 * reforting hither to perform the divine offices apart from the ArianSy 
 ' and adminifter to catholicks a catholick communion, gave this village 
 ' the name of Catholica. The origin of this name, and the particulars 
 
 * of the whole tranfadtion cardinal Co'far Baronim has inferted in his an- 
 
 * nals of the church ; and cardinal Bcryiardine Spada, in order to teftify 
 ' his affeclion to his native country, has exhibited it on this marble, for 
 
 * the information of devout pilgrims, in the year 1637.' 
 
 Concha. A few Italia?! miles from CathoUca towards Rimini, are to be feen the 
 
 ruins of the ancient city oi Concha in the fea; and farther on towards 
 
 St. Marino, the left lies the republick of St. Marino. The freedom of this little 
 commonwealth is more owing to the poverty of the individuals than the 
 abilities of the governors. 
 
 Rimini. Rimini or Ariminmn was formerly a city of note, but is now extremely 
 
 decayed, efpecially fince it received a fatal blow by an earthquake in 
 1671 : however it is ftill venerable for the many monuments of its an- 
 cient fplendor. A little without the town towards Pejaro is a trium- 
 
 Triumphal phal arch, on each front of which are two htz\xt\i\A Corinthian pillars and 
 
 "'''''' two bufto's. On that towards the country is this imperfedl infcription : 
 
 Co.fi. Sept. dejignat. OB. Aug. M. V. Cekberrimeii Italia "oieis conftli^ 
 Senatus Pop. lleis 
 
 On a pyramid on the other fide : 
 
 Cos. Ariminen. poss. id. Mart. M. DLXFII. 
 
 ' Ereded by the confuls of Rimini, March 15, 1567.' 
 
 In the market-place is the following infcription cut in ftone : 
 
 C. Cafar
 
 R I M I N L 59 
 
 /~, f^ p Monument of 
 
 C. Lcejar JdmsCsfar. 
 
 Rubicone 
 
 Superato 
 Civili bell. 
 
 Commilif. 
 
 Suos hie 
 In foro Ar. 
 
 Adlocut. 
 
 ( 
 
 Caius Cajar the didator, after paffing the Rubicon, here in this area 
 f of Ariminum harangued his army to prepare them for a civil war.' 
 
 On the other fide : 
 
 Suggejlum hum 'vetuflate collapfum Coss. Arim. menjium Novcmbris ^ 
 Decemb. MDLV. rejlit. 
 
 • This ancient Suggejlum decayed by length of time, was repaired by 
 
 * the confuls of Rimini in the months of 'November and December^ 
 
 1 ^555' 
 
 On the wall of the council-houfe is a flone with the following an- 
 cient infcription : 
 
 C. Cafari Augufl. Cof. vias cmnes a Rimin. 5 tern. 
 
 Underneath it is alfo this infcription : 
 
 Mantii Franci Regis Bungi, Michaelis Protafii Aritnanorum Regis, ac J=*P^"^'<= '"■'- 
 Barptolomcei Omurce Principis, yuliani, Martinique Comitwn, ab yapanor. Rimini. 
 remotijf. infulis ad D. Gregorium XIII. k gator wn, ut jam fufceptam Chrifli 
 Jidem profit ercntur, cptatijf. Ariminion adventiii XVI. Kl. Julii publico 
 fumptu, maximdque latitid hofp. MDLXXXF. Sixto V. P. O. M.feden. 
 S. P. ^ Ar. D. 
 
 ' Manti Franco king of Bungo, Michael Prota/i king of Arima, and 
 
 * Eartolomew prince of Omur, fent the noble Julian and Martin embaf- 
 ' fadors from the remote iflands of Japan to pope Gregory XIII. in or- 
 ' der to make a public profeffion of the Chriftian faith, which they had 
 
 * already embraced; who arrived at Rimini June 16, 158^, where they 
 
 * were entertained with the greateft feftivity and magnificence at the 
 
 I 2 ' public
 
 6o 
 
 RIMINI. 
 
 public charge. In memory of this remarkable tranfadllon, the fenate 
 and people of Rimini have fet up this monument in the pontificate of 
 Sixtm V.' 
 
 Oihr infci'f. Here are other infcriptions relating to fuch natives of this city as have 
 deferved well of the ftate, by contributing to its profperity after the 
 plague, and by other fignal fervices. 
 
 Behind the Capuchin convent is {hewn fome ruins, faid to have been 
 
 A»s^V,tb:atre. an amphitheatre. Thefe being in a garden, and confequently not very 
 obvious tolhe public view, an index is cut on the outfide of the convent- 
 wall, pointing with its finger to thofe ruins, and over it are thefe words : 
 
 Aifiphithecttri olim P. Sempronio Cos. excitati reliquias indigitaf Sen. Ar. 
 
 ' This points to the remains of the amphitheatre built in the conful- 
 ' fliip of P. Semprotiius.' 
 
 Ancient biidze. 
 
 Fountain. 
 
 Francifcan 
 
 church. 
 Malatefta 
 family. 
 
 Tomb of the 
 celebrated 
 
 Themillius. 
 
 On that fide of the city which lies to\v2irA.s Ravenna, near a bridge 
 over the Ariminiim., now called Marecchia, is an infcription, denoting 
 that it was either built or repaired by Augtt/ius and Tiberius. This bridge 
 is two hundred feet in length, fifteen in breadth, and confifts of five 
 arches. 
 
 In the middle of the area before the council-houfe is a magnificent 
 fountain, on which (lands a fmall bronze ftatue of St. Paul. Not far 
 from this is likewife a bufto of pope P<2«i!/ V. of brafs. 
 
 The Francifcan church was built in the year 1450, by SigifmundPan- 
 duJfo, of the family of Malate/ia, who for a long time were lords of 
 Rimini, as is exprefled in an infcription over the main entrance. This 
 Sigifnnmd Pandulfo was two years commander in chief of the Venetian 
 troops againft the Turks in the Morea ; and having made himfelf mafter 
 of the city of Sparta, brought back with him the bones oiThemifiius, a 
 celebrated philofopher of Confiantinople, and one of the befl: commen- 
 tators upon Arijlotle. Thefe bones he depofited in a marble tomb 
 without this church, with the following infcription : 
 
 TJ^emidii
 
 RIMINI. 6i 
 
 tbem'ijlii Byzantini 
 
 Thihfophorum fua t-'mpeftate Principis rdiqtium 
 
 Sigtjmundus Pandulfm Malatefta Pand. F. 
 
 Belli Pelopon. advirfus Turcarum Re gem Imperator, 
 
 Ob ingentem eruditorum, guojlagrat, amor em 
 
 Hue adjerendiwi introque mittendiim 
 
 Curavit. M. CCCC. LXK 
 
 ' Thefe remains of Themiftius, a native of Confiantimpk, the mofl 
 
 * eminent philofopher of his time, were brought over by Sigifmund Pan- 
 
 * dulfo Malatefta-, fon of Pandulfo, General in the Morean war againft the 
 
 * TurkSy who being a friend and patron to learned men, depofited them 
 ' here, A. D. 1465. 
 
 Near this tomb are alfo fix others in the church-yard, containing the 
 remains of perfons eminent for their learning ; among thefe are the 
 civilian Sebajiiano Vanti, and Robert Valturi who wrote twelve books on Tomhso/Y&v.- 
 the art of war, which he dedicated to the above-mentioned Malatefta, ti«»a'Valturi. 
 
 In one of the chapels in this church is alfo a marble bufto of the 
 former. 
 
 Aflatue oi Sigifmund Pandulfo, in complete armour was fet up in the ■5{«'«'^e/"Si- 
 famous armory at Ambras in Tirol by the archduke Ferdi?iand, with a fjjifo"" *"' 
 large book in his hand, as an emblem of his affeftion to men of learn- 
 ing. He died in the year 16485 and on the right-hand within the 
 church a monument is erefled to his memory, with the following 
 epitaph, in which the dipthong a, according to the cuftom of thofe 
 times, is expreffed by a fingle e : 
 
 Sum Sigifmundus Malatefte e fanguine gentis {f'ff^ 
 
 Pandulfus genitor P atria Flamitiia eft. 
 Vitatn sbiit VII. Id. 0£i. efatis fiie ann. 
 L & L. men/. III. D. XX. M. CCCC. LXVITI. 
 
 ' I am Sigifmund, of the family of Malatefta, Pandulfo was my fa- 
 
 * ther, and Rimini my native place. He died on the ninth of OSlohery 
 ' 1468, aged fifty-one years, three months, and twenty days.' 
 
 Near this monument hang fome old flandards, and at a little diftance 
 a helmet with two horns; but the diflich annexed to them, in which 
 Malatefta clafles himfelf among the cornuted, is not very proper for a 
 Chridian church : 
 
 Porto
 
 62 
 
 Csunt Gam- 
 balonga'j ii- 
 brarf. 
 
 Andent Har- 
 kmr. 
 
 tight-houfe. 
 Flace ^^vhere 
 St. Anthony 
 , f reached to 
 fjhei. 
 The river 
 Lufa. 
 
 Fiumefmo. 
 Pifatello. 
 
 Kubicon the 
 ancient limits 
 of Italy. 
 
 R I M 1 N L 
 
 Porto le coma chogniino le "vede, 
 Et tal le porta che nonfe lo crede. 
 
 ' All the world is welcome to fee my horns ; it is no more than the 
 * fate of many a one who little thiniis of it.' 
 
 Thefe lines, according Francefco Sajifovim *, allude to his unfortunate 
 marriages ; who adds, that if he did wear horns, he knew how to rid 
 himfelf of the authors of his difgrace ; for he caufed his two firfl wives 
 to be poifoned, and his third to be ftrangled. His fecond wife was a 
 daughter of Nicholas margrave of EJle and Ferrara ; and the father of 
 his third wife was no lefs a perfon than Francefco Sforza duke of Milan. 
 
 On both fides of the church are feveral tombs belonging to the Ma- 
 tejla family. The church, as yet, is not roofed, but only covered with 
 planks laid acrofs. 
 
 Travellers who have a tafte for letters fliould not omit vifiting count 
 Ganibalongd% library at Rimini, which, purfuant to a deed of truft, is kept 
 in good order, and daily augmented. The building alfo in which the 
 books are depofited is elegant and well contrived. 
 
 Rimini had formerly a good harbour ; but it is now fo choaked up 
 with land, as fcarce to afford depth of water fufficient for paffage- boats. 
 The above-mentioned Sigifmund Pandulfo Malatefta feeing the marble 
 with which the harbour was faced could be of no farther ufe there, re- 
 moved it, in order to build the France/can church with it. The fea 
 at that time had withdrawn half an Italian mile from its ancient limits ; 
 and at prefent the brick tower, which formerly ferved for a Faro, or 
 light-houfe, is furrounded with gardens. However, they ftill {hew on 
 the coaft the fpot on which St. Anthony is faid to have ftood when he 
 preached to the fiflies. 
 
 A few Italian miles from Rimini you pafs by a bridge over the river 
 Lufa, which by Ckmentini, Giacomo Villani, and other learned men, 
 has been erroneoufly taken for the ancient Rubicon. Two miles on this 
 fide Cefcnatico the road crofles the river Fiumefino, and fcarce fifty or fixty 
 paces from thence, the Pifatello, which likewife difembogues itfelf here- 
 abouts into the Fiumefino. The Pifatello, though it appears fo fhallow 
 and fmall in any continuance of dry weather, was the river celebrated in the 
 Roman hiftoiy under the name of the Rubicon., as the limit betwixt the 
 Italian provinces and Cifalpine Gaul-f. For this reafon the hoftile views 
 
 of 
 
 * Dell' Origine dells Cafe Ulupi d' Italia, p. 368, edit Vend. 1674. 
 
 t Plin. Hift. Nat. lib. iii. c. 15. QSlava regio determinatur Arimino, Pado, Apcnnino. In 
 ora fiuvim Crujtumiiim, Ariminum cohnla cum amn his Arimino fs" Aprufa. Fluviu> hinc Rti- 
 bico, quondam finis Italia;, I id. Sidon, Apollinor. Uu. i. epift. 5. Thr ''-ighth diftriil is 
 
 bounded
 
 RIMINI. 63 
 
 of Julius Cafar plainly appeared by his paffing this river with his army ; Julius Cafjrf 
 for by the Roman laws no General could march the legions under his ^'l-'"!.-^,.'" 
 command out of the territories of his province into another, without an 
 order from the fenate and people of Rome. Likewife in returning from 
 an expedition, the army was not permitted to crofs this river, and come 
 into the Regiones fubiirbicaric?, without laying down their arms, on pain 
 of being adjudged enemies to their country. Ccefar being refolved to 
 break through this law, frankly faid, Ja5Ia ejl alea ; i. e. ' Now the die 
 
 • is caft;' fince, after that, no amicable accommodation was to be 
 expeded. Lucan fpeaks of this pafTage of the Rubicon in the following 
 manner : 
 
 Jam gelt das Cafar curfu fiipera'verat Alpes, 
 Ingejitefque animo motus, bellumque futuriim 
 Ceperat : ut ve}itum ejl parvi Rubiconis ad undas, 
 Ingens vifa duct patrice trepidantis imago 
 Clara per obfcuram vultu mcejlij}ima noSfem, 
 Turrigero cams effundens veriice crines, 
 Cafarie laccrd nudijque adjlare lacertis, 
 Et gemitu permijla loqui : quo tenditis ultra f 
 ^bfertis meajigna viri f Ji jure vemfis, 
 Si cives ; hue ujque licet. - - - 
 
 Fonte cadit modico, parvifqiie ifnpellitur undis 
 Puniccus Rubicon, cwn fervida canduit ajlas : 
 Perque imas ferpit valles, & Gallica certus 
 Limes ab Aufofiiis dijlerminat arva colonis. 
 
 Cafar ut adverfam fuperato gurgite ripam 
 
 Attigit, Hefperia iietitis & conftitif amis. 
 
 Hie, ait, hie pacem temerataque jura relinqiio ; 
 
 Te, Fortuna, fequor : procul hi?ic jam fodder a fwito. 
 
 Credidimusfatis, utendum ejl judice bello. Pharsal. //(5, i. 
 
 * Now Cafar marching fwift, with winged hafte, 
 ' The fummits of the frozen Alps had paft, 
 
 * With vafl events and enterprizes fraught, 
 
 * And future wars revolving in his thought, 
 
 ' bounded by Arimlnum, the Po, and the Apenn'me mountains. On the confines, are the 
 
 * river Cruftumium, the colony of Ariminum, together with the river of that name, 
 ' aiid the Apruja, The river Rubicon was formerly the boundary of Italy on this fide.' 
 
 A. ' Now
 
 64 RIMINI. 
 
 ' Now near the banks of Rubicon he flood ; 
 ' When lo ! as he furvey'd the narrow flood, 
 ' Amidft the dulky horrors of the night, 
 ' A wond'rous vifion ftood, confefs'd to fight. 
 
 * Her awful head Rome^ rev'rcnd image rear'd, 
 ' Trembling and fad the matron form appear'd : 
 ' A tow'ry crown her hoary temples bound, 
 ' And her torn treffes rudely hung around j 
 ' Her naked arms uplifted e'er flie fpoke, 
 
 * Then groaning, thus her painful filence broke j 
 ' Prefumptuous man ! Oh whither do you run ! 
 ' Oh whither bear you thefe my enfigns on ! 
 
 * If friends to right, if citizens of Rome, 
 ' Here to your utmoft barrier are you come. — — 
 
 ' While with hot fkies the parching fummer glows, 
 
 * The Rubicon in narrow currents flows : 
 
 * Through fliallow vales it flowly winds its way, 
 ' Lofing its ruddy waters in the fea. 
 ' Its bank on either fide a limit fliands 
 ' Between the Gallic and Auj'onian lands. 
 
 ' The leader now had pafs'd the torrent o'er, 
 
 ' And reach'd fair Italy's forbidden fliore. 
 
 ' Then rearing on the hoflile bank his head : 
 
 ' Here farewel peace and injur'd laws he faid : 
 
 ' Since faith is broke, and compa(!^ fet afide, 
 
 ' Henceforth thou, goddefs Fortune, art my guide, 
 
 * Let fate and war the great event decide.' 
 
 ROWE. 
 
 Suetonius, in the Life of "Julius Cafar, writes thus : Cafar - - conje- 
 cutus cohortes ad Rubiconem jiumen, qui Provincia ejus finis erat, paultum 
 conjlitit : ac reputam, quantum tnoliretur, converfus ad proximos, etianmum 
 inquit, regredi pofllimus : quodfi ponticulum tranfierimus omnia armis 
 agenda erunt. - - cap. 32. Tunc Cafar , Eatur, inquit, quo Deorum ofl:enta 
 & inimicorum iniquitas vocat. Jad:a alea eft, inquit. ' Cafar coming 
 ' with his troops to the bank of the Rubicon, which was the boundary 
 ' of his province, flood mufing for fome time on the importance of his 
 ' defign; and then turning to thofe about him, faid: " We may flill 
 " retreat; but if we once pafs this little bridge, a war is the certain con- 
 *•' fequence." Then Cafar called out, " Let us march whither the 
 " omens of the Gcds, and the perverfnefs of our enemies call us. The 
 " die is now cafl:." 
 
 4 Scipio 
 
 1
 
 RIMINI. . e^ 
 
 Sclpio a^rdmonir of Cefena has in a particular treatife fliewn, tliat the "^'-'^ Pirateiio, 
 Pifatello, and not the Lufa, was the SLUcicnt Ruh'con ; and even at this "^^,^J^^J' 
 day the neighbouring country people call it Rugo}i. What feems to put 
 this beyond all doubt, is an ancient flone-monument dug up on the Andem monu 
 banks of the Pifatcllo, and at the defire of the inhabitants of Cefena, "^'"^'1"^'"' 
 eredled by cardinal Brcarola, late legate of Romagna. It is to be feen on 
 the road leading from Rimini to Ceje?ia, not far from the latter, and is 
 commonly called la Colonna di Riibicone. Near the top of this pyramid 
 are the following words : 
 
 S. P. ^ R. San5lio ad Ruhico?iis pontem. 
 
 Underneath, on a large marble table, is this infcription : 
 
 'Jiijfu mandatiive Pop. Rom. Cof. Imp. Trib. Miles, Tyro, Conimilito, ar- 
 mate quijqiiis es, 7na?iipulariave centurio, turmave Legionarice, hie fijlito, 
 'vexilhim finito, arma deponito, nee citra hunc amnem Riibico?iem figna, duSliun 
 exercitum, commeatumve traducito. Si qiiis ergo hiijufce ji/JJiojiis advei-jus 
 prcecepta ierit, feceritve, adjiidicatus efto hojiis S. P. ^ R. ac fi contra 
 Patriam arma tulerit Penatefque c faeris penetralibus afportaverit. 
 S. P. ^ R. Sanaio Plebifciti S. Ve C. 
 
 On the bafe are engraven thefe words : 
 
 U/fra hos fines arma proferre liccat nemini. 
 
 To thefe is added the following modern infcription : 
 
 Rubiconem ponti JiibjeBum tranfis. Viator y 
 
 Romano interdiSio, Ccefaris aujii 
 
 Ef adagio JACTM ALEM celebratum, 
 
 Flumini hide fiabikm iinponere trajeSlian 
 
 Ethnic a din vetuit pavidafuperflitio, 
 
 Catholica nunc Jiiajit fecura Religio, 
 
 Innocent X. Summo Pont. 
 
 Card. Donghio Legato 
 
 Anno MDCLIF. 
 
 * Traveller, thou pafTeft the Rubicon, over which this bridge is built i 
 
 * a river famous for the ancient Roman prohibition, the bold attempt of 
 
 * Ccefar, and the adage of "JaSta efl alea. Superflition had long deterred 
 ' the pagans from building a bridge over this river } but the Catholic re- 
 
 VoL. III. K ' ligion,
 
 66 C E S E NA. 
 
 ' ligion, lefs fearful, refolved upon and performed this ufeful work in 
 
 * the pontificate of Innocent X. and the legatelhip of cardinal Doiighi, in 
 
 * the year 1654.' 
 
 Cefena. Cejena lies wide on the left-hand, in the road from Rimini to Ra- 
 
 Ccfenatico. 'vcnnu. Over-againft it lies Cefenatico, which has an excellent harbour 
 and a commodious canal. Upon the bridge, on the Rimini fide, ftand 
 two fine marble pillars of the Corinthian order. On one of thefe pil- 
 lars is a reprefentation of a dragon, and under it are thefe words : 
 
 Infcriptioni on 'Jo. PctrUS Ghljl. 
 
 On the pedeftal is the following infcription : 
 
 Ut maris intumefcentis 
 
 Undas occluderent 
 
 In hujus poflea canalis ac poriiis 
 
 Cujlodiam & munditiem 
 
 Iterum adjiuendum quotidie relaxandas, 
 
 Veteri ponte jam pene cetate 
 
 CotifeSfo, 
 
 Novum hunc are publico afundamentii 
 
 Erexere 
 
 S. P. ^ C. 
 
 Anno Domini MDCCXFI. 
 
 ' In order to fliut up the waters of the fea during the flood, and af- 
 ' terwards to let them out again when it ebbs, for the fecurity and 
 ' cleanfing this canal and harbour, the old bridge having been almoft 
 ' ruined through length of time, the fenate and people of Cefenatico 
 '■ ereded this new one, in the year iy\().' 
 
 On the other pillar are the pope's arms, and the following words : 
 
 Gregorio XIII. Pont. Max. 
 
 ' In the pontificate of pope Gregory XIII.' 
 
 Rtmontalefthe About half-way betwixt Cefenatico and Savio lies the epifcopal city of 
 toyincfQw- Cerviay which at the beginning of this century entirely changed its fitua- 
 InZtlut tion, having formerly flood a quarter of a mile diftant from the fea. 
 
 The
 
 CERVIA. 67 
 
 The inhabitants removed on account of the unhealthful air, from 
 which, in its prefent fituation the town is entirely free. This new 
 city is built with beautiful broad ftreets, which for the mod part are un- 
 der covering. On that fide of the city oppofite to Savio, or Ravenna, 
 over one of the gates is the following inscription : 
 
 Cervia Urbcm infahibri damnatam cceloy 
 
 Ad foUtudtnem jam din rcdaSlam 
 
 In hujus apricam Adriatici plagam, 
 
 Ckinentiori perflandam aura, 
 
 Propmquofpeifandam mari, 
 
 Niinquam antea tentato opere 
 
 Innocentius XII. & Clemens XL Rom. Pontijices, 
 
 Fuhii S. R. E. Cardinalis Ajlalii 
 
 Solicitudine allaborante, 
 
 Laurentii Cor/mi Ecclefiafiici cerarii genera/is PrcefeSli 
 
 Adfplrante Jludio, 
 
 Michaelis Angcli Comitis Majai Mmilm ^xjloris 
 
 Votis expofcentibus, 
 
 T'raduxerunt 
 
 Ann. Dom. MDCCIIL 
 
 ' Pope's Innocent XII. and Clement XI. by the indefatigable care of 
 ' cardinal Fuhio AJlali, the great diligence of Laiirczo Corfini, &c. re- 
 
 * moved the city of Cervia,vj)\\ch. being infefted with an unwholefome air, 
 
 * had long been reduced to a defolate condition, into this high fituation on 
 ' the coaft of the Adriatic, that it might enjoy a more falubrious air, (iff. 
 
 * in the year 1703.' 
 
 One would fcarce believe there could be fuch a difference in the na- 
 ture of the air within fo fmall a diftance, did not experience in many 
 inftances fhew it, efpecially in hot climates. 
 
 Without the above-mentioned gate is a beautiful and broad canal, Sait-iuorh. 
 through which, in June, Jidy, and Augujl (namely, when the feafon 
 is hottefl and drieft) the water is let out into a low piece of ground co- 
 vered with rufhes and weeds, about half a mile in length, and in fome 
 places as broad. Here the heat of the fun totally exhales the water, 
 and the fait remains at the bottom and fides, to the great profit of the 
 court of Ro7ne. The papal provinces Urbino, Ferrara., Ancona, Bologna, 
 and Romagna, that lie near the Appe7iine mountains, have the greateft 
 part of the fait they ufe from thefe falt-works. 
 
 K 2 In
 
 68 LA CLASS E. 
 
 Barren mm- Jn tiic countfy bcyond Rimini there is a vifible alteration for the worfe ; 
 
 '''^'' but the foil is no where fo barren as between Cervia and Rave/ifia ; the 
 
 fea-fliore being very fandy, and the country full of moraffes and fens. 
 
 Pigniii'W. About three or four miles on this (\i\q Ravenna, the road lies through 
 a wood oi pigni*; a tree perfedtly like the pine, or rather the fir-tree, 
 only it fpreads into a broad crown at the top, and has fomewhat of an 
 aromatic fmell. The fruit called />/^«« is larger than the pine-apple, and 
 when laid upon the fire, opens, fo that the kernel may be taken out, 
 and eaten without any farther preparation, or elfe put into foop. This 
 fruit is no inconfiderable branch of trade here, and the hufks make a 
 clear and excellent fire ; but they are chiefly burnt in ftoves. 
 
 Cxt^nt of La. About two Italian miles on this fide Ravenna lies the monaftery o^La 
 Clajfe, which was founded in honour of St. Apollinaris, in the year 
 534, finifhed in 548, and in 1721 rebuilt by pope 7/7«off«^ XIII. and 
 cardinal Ccrneliiis Bentiv&lo, his legate (as appears by an infcription on the 
 right-hand of the portico at the entrance of the church.) The fathers 
 call themfelves Monachi Clajfenfes, and alfo Camaldulenfes. The church 
 doors ftcod open when I was there ; but not a foul was to be met with 
 cither in the church, or in the convent ; for the monks, on account of 
 the unhealthful air in thefe parts, as foon as the fummer heats com- 
 
 j^ff/Vf defet-ted mcncc quit the monafl:ery in order to fpend that feafon at Ravenna. On 
 
 in fummer. g^ch fide of the church are twelve very beautiful pillars of a lightifh-grey 
 marble. Here are alfo ten large ftone coffins, being the repofitories of 
 fo many bifliops oi Ravenna; andfome of them, in their epitaphs, are called 
 Jan5iijjimi and ter beatijjimi. Within the church, over the main door, 
 is an infcription, fignifying, that in 1653, the body oi ^t. Apollinaris 
 was brought hither from Ravenna. On the right-hand in going up to 
 the high altar, is fhewn, within a grate near the wall, the print of a 
 
 The print of ^ foot, which is pretended to be an imprefiion made by Gregory the Great 
 
 fi,'ot^°^'^ ' '" ^^^ ecflafy when he was flruck with the fandtity of this place ; but by 
 the direftion of the foot that made this impreffion, the faint feems to have 
 been rather leaving the church than coming into it. The door through 
 which Gregory entered the church is at prefent walled up, and over it is 
 to be feen the following infcription : 
 
 * Jornandes^ de rebus Gathicis, mentions this wood. 
 
 D. 0. M.
 
 LACLASSE 69 
 
 X). O. M. SanSium 
 
 Gregorium M. 
 
 'Po7itificem ter maximum 
 
 Per jamiam banc 
 Temphim mgrcdieiitem, 
 Ob loci JanSlitatem & majejiatem 
 
 hi exflajin raptum, 
 
 Vejiigiiim niidi pedis limini ittjixijfe-y 
 
 ^od antiqiid populi 'venerations 
 
 Craticuld ferrea 
 
 coopertum eji, 
 
 In Vrbe Ravenna 
 
 'Traditio & Fama 
 
 Viget, 
 
 * To God, the greateft and befl of Beings. 
 ' A tradition is ftill frefli at Ravenna, that Gregory the greateft of 
 
 * Popes entering the church through this door, and being ftruck with the 
 
 * awfulnefs and fandity of this place was rapt into an ecliafy, and left the 
 ' print of his naked foot at the entrance; which the people, out of 
 
 * veneration to the faint, have long fince inclofed within an iroa 
 
 * grate.' 
 
 The high altar is infulated or detached from the wall, and of yellow- 
 marble : it is adorned with four beautiful Corinthian pillars made of a kind 
 of marble with white and black veins. About the altar is a good old mofaic- 
 work, reprefenting feveral faints, with their names infcribed near them. 
 On the left-hand in coming into the church, is the following infcrip- 
 tion on the wall : 
 
 + Otho III. Rom. Imp. Germ, oh pat rata crimina auftcriori difciplina Penance cf the 
 SanSfi Romualdi obtemperans, emenfo nudis pedibiis ab Vrbe Romd ad Gar- ""P"'"' '^^^°' 
 ganum montem itinere, Bnfilicam banc & Cfsnobium Clnjj'enfe XXXX. dies 
 pa; nit ens inhabit avit., & hie cilicio ac voluntariis cajligationibus peccata fiia 
 expians, aiigujlmn dedit hiiniilitatis exemplum, Gf Imperator fibi T^emplum 
 hoc ^ pcenitentiam Juam nobilitat. Anno P. C. M. 
 
 * The emperor Otho III. having, in compliance with the fevere difci- 
 ' pline which St. Romiiald enjoined him for his fins, travelled barefoot 
 ' from Rome to mount Garganus; to complete his penance, refided in 
 
 ' this,
 
 70 ■ RAVENNA. 
 
 * this church and the convent of la Clajfe, for forty days, expiating his 
 ' fins with hair-cloth and voluntary caftigations. By this means the em- 
 
 * peror made this church and his own repentance famous, in the year of 
 ' Chrifl 1000.' 
 
 LETTER LXIV. 
 
 Account of Ravenjia^ Ferrara, Faenza, and Imola. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 Ravenna. T^ AVENNA, abfurdly fuppofed by fome learned men, to have 
 Xv. heen founded by EJau, vv'as, not only during the grandeur of an- 
 cient Rome, but a confiderable time afterwards, very famous for the 
 Number of in. Exarchatc*, of which it was the feat. It contains at prefent fcarce 
 hahitanti and flftee„ thoufand inhabitants, which bears fuch a difproportion to the 
 convents, being no lels than rour-and-twenty, that the city mull 
 fenfibly feel the weight of this ufelefs load. Its former unhealth- 
 fulnefs has in a great meafurc been remedied by diverting the courfe of 
 the rivers Montone and Ronco from their ancient channels, and cauling 
 them to run clofe by the city; and by draining the ftagnating putrid water 
 from the marfhy land about it. 
 Porta Pam- In coming from Rimini you enter Ravemia through the Porta Pam- 
 ^^^' Jili, fo called from the papal family of that name ; and as Innocent X. 
 
 was of that houfe, the infcription on the gate begins thus : 
 
 Imperante coliimbd Patnphilid, &c. 
 
 ' Under the aufpices of the Pamphilian dove, (ScJ 
 
 The Po7-ia Ciho likewife derives its name from the cardinal, under 
 whofe adminiftration it was built. 
 Porta d'Oro. On the Porta d'Oro is the following ancient infcription : 
 
 • The Exarchus was the emperor's vice-roy in Itah^ whofe refidence was at R<wenrui. 
 Vid. Hiji. Med. yEvi. 
 
 3 
 
 r/.
 
 RAVENNA. 71 
 
 7/. Claudius. Drufi. F. Ccefar. Aug. Ancient in- 
 
 Ger77ianicus. Pont. Max. Tr. Pot. >'''^"""- 
 
 Cof. II. DPS. III. Imp. III. P. P. dedlt. 
 
 Among the antiquities in this city are flaewn the remains of the palace P^^^^e'ifa 
 of Theodorick king of the Oftro-Goths ; and feveral fuperb pillars are to °' '"^ '""' 
 be feen in the upper part of it. In the lower part is a large porphyry uh tomb. 
 veffel, or farcophagus, clofed up, where formerly the remains of that 
 monarch were depofited. It is decorated with fculpture, reprefenting 
 circles and lions heads. This farcophagus is indeed fomething fmaller 
 than thofe lit Rome, which I have already taken notice of: however, it 
 is very well worth feeing, being no lefs than eight feet in length, 
 four in breadth, and cut out of one block*. Near it is the following 
 infcription : 
 
 Vas hoc Porphyriacimi ol. Tbeodorici Gothorum Imp. cineres in Rotunda^ 
 apice recondem hue Petro Donato Ccefio Narnien. Pnvjule Javenfe tranjlatum 
 adperennem memoriam Sapicntes Reip. Rav. P. P. C. MDLXIIII. 
 
 * This porphyry vafe, formerly placed on the top of the Rotonda, 
 
 * and containing the afhes of Theodorick king of the Goths, was, with 
 
 * the confent of Pietro Donato Ccefi biOiop of Narni, and by order of 
 ' the wife maglftracy of the commonwealth of Ra'vejtna, removed hither, 
 
 * for the better preservation of this valuable piece of antiquity.' 
 
 The church called the Rotonda lies without the city, and on the Rotonda, 
 right-hand in going from the Porta Cibo. At prefent it looks like a 
 ruined cupola, or chapel. Its diameter is about fixteen common paces ; 
 and its pavement, excepting in the dry fummer months, is always un- 
 der water. It is fuppofed to have been built by Amalafunta, king Theo- 
 dorick's daughter, in the year 526. The moft remarkable part of it is Remarkable 
 the roof, which is in the form of an inverted difli, and confifts of one 'jfjJ "J'"^'- 
 fingle ftone, which, many years after this church was built, was fplit by 
 lightning: it is as hard as a flint, and, according to an account written 
 on vellum and kept on the altar of the chapel, was brought out of £_g)'^r. 
 The thicknefs of this ftone is four geometrical feet, the circumference a 
 hundred and fou teen, and the diameter one- and-thirty feet and two 
 inches. 
 
 * Ecfides this piece of antiquity, Ravenna boafts of another not lefs venerable ; I mean: 
 the filver bowl made by Peter Chryfilogm bifhop of Ravenna, and prelerved amidft all the 
 savages of the Barbarians,
 
 72 
 
 Its Kveight. 
 
 King Thco- 
 dorick'j i(i7/ib 
 
 Iffventlon of 
 het/ibi. 
 
 Hokv far the 
 fea ii txith- 
 draiun f) om 
 the city. 
 
 Roman ^fe^-/ 
 at Ravenna 
 
 RAVE N N A, 
 
 It is difficult to conceive in what manner, at a time when the modern 
 machines were in a great meafure unknown, this huge mafs, the weight 
 of which cannot be lefs than a hundred tons, was raifed to the top of 
 this edifice. Indeed a perfon who has {ttn the ftupendous obelifks at 
 Rome, will the lefs wonder at this. Mijfon, torn. I. f. 293. makes this 
 Hone thirty-eight feet in diameter, and fifteen thick ; but the laft article 
 is a grofs miftake, the thicknefs at mofi: not exceeding five EngUfh feet. 
 I am furprifed that any writer, who pretends to have been at Ravenna, 
 fliould fay, that this flone roof has an aperture in the center, like that 
 in the Rotonda at Rome ; for it is very certain that there is no fuch thing 
 in the roof of the Ravenna Rotonda ; and though it be a little convex 
 on the outfide, a perfon may walk over every part of it. 
 
 Round this ftone formerly flood the ftatues of the twelve apoftles, 
 as appears from their names ftill to be feen on the pedeftals, which pro- 
 jedl a little way out from the ftone roof. 
 
 On the top of this roof, near the center, was formerly placed the 
 porphyry farcophagus mentioned above, with the remains of king Theo- 
 dorick. According to a narrative written on vellum, and kept on the 
 altar of the chapel, this farcophagus, in the fifteenth century, was beat 
 down by a cannon-ball j but others will have it that this happened in 
 the fixteenth century, in the year 15 12; when the French, under 
 Lewis XII. made themfelves mafters of Ravenna, and committed the 
 mofl: violent outrages, without any regard to the fandtity of churches, &c. 
 Thofe authors who fay, that in this expedition Leicis XII. made ufe of 
 bombs, do not refledt, that, according to Blondel, in his Art dejetter des 
 bombes, thofe dreadful inftruments of war were firft made ufe of in the 
 year 1588, at the fiege of Wachtendonk : others are of opinion that they 
 were not invented till the year 1639, and that their dreadful eff^edls were 
 firfl felt by the caflle of La Motte. They feem to have the greateft pro- 
 bability on their fide, who think that the French foldiers threw down 
 this farcophagus without the help of cannon ; however, thev deftroyed 
 the cover of it, which was made of gilt Corinthian brafs, and finely orna- 
 mented with bajfo-relievos. 
 
 On the right-hand without the Porta Cibo are fome remains of the 
 towers of the old cafilc. On the left-hand, where formerly the fea beat 
 againft the city-walls, as is evident from the iron rings for making faft 
 the fhips ftill to be feen in them, is a large tradt of land, finely cul- 
 tivated ; for Ravenna, at prefent, lies three Italian miles from the fea. 
 As Mijenum was the ancient port for the Roman fleet in the Mediter- 
 ranean, defigned to keep Gaul, Spain, Mauritania, Egypt, Sardinia, 
 and Sicily in awe ; Raven77a was the rendezvous of the other Roman 
 fleet, appointed for the fame purpofe with regard to Epirus, Macedonioy 
 
 Achaia,
 
 RAVENNA. 73 
 
 Achaia, Propontis, Pontus, Crete, and Cyprus, as appears from Vcgctius, 
 lib. iv. and Suetonius, in the Life of Augujlus *. And it is not impro- 
 bable that the convent of la Clajfe derives its name from the Clajfiarii 
 or marines, who ufed (o encamp on that fpot. Strabo ^Q{Qx'\bt% Ra-^'.'^"'."^'''''*', 
 'uenna as a city built on piles among moralles and mallows, and lubjecl Xo about Ra- 
 frequent inundations ; and adds, that it had a great many bridges, and venna. 
 that boats were ufed in going from one part of it to the other. But it 
 is almoft incredible to think how much things are now altered ; for it is 
 certain that the city ftands on the fame place as it formerly did, as ap- 
 pears from the old walls and other remains of antiquity. To this place 
 what Ovid fays on another occafion is applicable : 
 
 - - - vidi faStas ex aquore terras, 
 
 Et procul a pelago conchce jacuere marina. 
 
 ' I faw dry land where once the billows roU'd, {^r.' 
 
 This alteration is not of late date ; for "Jornandes, who lived in the 
 middle of the fixth century, relates, that in his time the harbour was 
 turned into delightful gardens -}-. 
 
 The ancient pharos J, or light-houfe, fliands about half a mile from Pharos. 
 the city; it is at prefent in a ruinous condition, and of no manner of 
 
 * Cap. 49. Claffem Mifeni, & alteram Ravenna, ad tutelam fuperi & infer i maris, collocavit, 
 
 * For the defence of the upper and lower fea, he ftationed a fleet at Mifenwn, and another 
 ' at Ravenna.^ Tacit, Annal. iv. cap. 5. Itaiiam utroque mari ducs claffes, Mifenum aptid ijf 
 Raiiennam prafidebant. ♦ Two fleets, one at Mifenum, and the other at Reventra, proteiSled 
 ' Italy in both feas.' 
 
 f A meridie P adits, qui ^ Eridanus, ah Augufto Imp. altiffima foffa demiffus, qui feptima fui 
 alvei parte tnedinm infuit civitniem: ad ojiia fua amocnijfimum portum habens, qui claffem ducen- 
 tarum quinquaginta naitium, Dione referente, tutijfimd dudum credebatiir recipere Jlatione. i^« 
 nunc, ut Fabius ait, quod aliqiiando partus fuerat, fpatiofiffimos hortos oflendit, arboris pknos, 
 veriim de quibus pendeant non vela, fed poma. ' Towards the fouth, the Po, otherwife called 
 ' the Eridanus, Augujlus conveyed into the city through a very deep canal, at the mouth 
 
 * of which was a delightful and fpacious harbour, where, according to Dio, two hundred 
 ' and fifty fhips could lie in fafety. Whereas now, to ufe the words of Fabius, the har- 
 
 * hour is turned into fpacious gardens, planted with trees, where fruit hangs inftcad of fails.' 
 The quotation from Dio, that the harbour of Ravenna could contain two hundred and fifty 
 fliips, muft have been in fome piece of that author that is now loft, for it is not to be found 
 in any of his works that are extant. But it is impoffible that the/*<7 fhould ever run fouth- 
 ward of the city, as that branch of this river running from Ferrara, called Po di Primaro or 
 Po d'Argenta, is feven miles diftant from Ravenna, to the north of that city. 
 
 X Plinius, Hi/l. Nat. lib.xxxvi, c. 12. Ufus Phari ('Alexandrini) noiiurno navium curfui 
 ignes ojlendere, ad pranuncianda vada portufque introiium : ftcuti compluribus jam locis flagrant, 
 ui Puetolis iff RAVENN.E. ' The ufe of the Pharos (of Alexandria) is to hang out lights, 
 
 * for the benefit of fhips failing in the night, that they may avoid (helves, or know they 
 
 * are near the entrance of a harbour. This is done in many other places, namely, at 
 
 * Pj4teoli and Ravenna,* 
 
 Vol. hi. L- fcrvice,
 
 74 
 
 Pillat-s in ths 
 market -ylate. 
 
 Statue nffcpe 
 Alexander. 
 
 Memorial in 
 honour of the 
 •virgin Mary. 
 
 Gales o/Ga.- 
 za. 
 
 Statue of 
 Hercules Ho 
 rarius. 
 
 R A V E _ N N A, 
 
 fervice. Thz pha-ros mufl: be diftinguidied from the watch-tower within 
 the walls, near the Palazzo de Spetti. The former is a fquare tower not en- 
 tirely flraight or perpendicular, but leans to one fide. When any danger 
 is apprehended from pirates, the inhabitants on the coaft have notice of it 
 by fignals from this tower, by lamps, or a lire made in it. 
 
 The large market-palace of the city is adorned with two lofty pillars 
 of granate, upon which ftand at prefent the flatues of St. Vitlor and 
 ^l. ApoUinaris ; but formerly, when this city remained under the jurif- 
 diction of Venice^ the arms and the patron faints of that republic were 
 to be fcen on them. In this area is alfo eredled a brafs ftatue of pope 
 Alexander VII. fitting, which is the ufual attitude in public monuments 
 erefted to the vicars of Chrift. Behind this ftatue is a monumental in- 
 fcription on the wall of a houfe, by which Raijenna teftifies her gratitude 
 to the holy virgin for averting the plague in 1631, when it raged all 
 over the neighbourhood. 
 
 Farther on, under an arcade in the market-place, are eight fmall iron 
 grates, which are faid to have been gates taken from the city of Pavia, 
 and fet up as trophies of the valour of the inhabitants of Ravenna, The 
 common people are perfuaded that thefe gates were brought from the 
 Holy Land, and that they were thofe which Samjon carried away from 
 Gaza : if this were true, he had no very extraordinary load to carry. 
 
 In the council-houfe are to be feen leveral infcriptions fet up in ho- 
 nour of the Pope's legates who prefided here. Such a vice-gerent ordi- 
 narily prefides here only three years; after the expirationof which time, a 
 new patent is requifite to continue him in his office. 
 
 On a fountain in the area before the Pope's palace is to be feen an an- 
 ■ cient ftatue of Hercules, bearing on his fhoulder an hemifphere that 
 ferves for a fun-dial, which is called Hercules Aftrohgiis, or Horarius. 
 Thofe who believe, with Vcjjius (de Idololatria) that the fun was wor- 
 fiiipped under the name of Hercides, may eafily comprehend why this 
 hero was chofen as a fupport for a fun-dial *. The club on which this 
 ftatue leans diftinguifties him from Atlas, for whom otherwife he might 
 eafily be taken. According to Pighi (in his Hercules Prodicius, p. 257.) 
 juft fuch another ftatue, with a celeftial fphere, was formerly to be feen 
 in Stefano Bubali'i 'villa at Rome. 
 
 How fcarce good fpring water, fit for drinking, was anciently at Ra- 
 vtmna, appears from Martial, who fays, in his fifth book : 
 
 * Some learned perfons before Vojfius have, in the worfhip paid to the fun and moon, 
 traced out all the deities of antiquity, and their conjecture is favoured by Macroblus, SatutTi. 
 tib. i. c. 17. who fays, Omnia numina mafailini generis ad unum folem : feminini generis ad lunam 
 referr't. ' That all the male deitres are included in that of the fun alone, and the female 
 •- in that of the moon.'
 
 RAVENNA, 75 
 
 Bit Cifterna m'lht quam Vinea malo Ravemia, 
 Cian pofjlm multo vaidere flur'n a quam. 
 
 ' I would rather be poffefled of a ciftern than a vineyard at Ravenna, 
 ' where water is fold at a dearer rate than wine.' 
 
 On the area before the cathedral flands the flatue of the virgin Mary, Statue of the 
 on the top of a pillar ered:ed to her in the year 1659, ob reparatam'^"'^"^^^^'^'' 
 (perhaps it fliould he, prefervatam) pluries a pejle Civitatem, ' becaufe 
 flie preferved the city more than once from the plague,' according to the 
 infcription upon it. The great door of the church is made of rough ^f""' ^'""■^■' 
 boards, without any ornaments ; but the mofl: remarkable thing is, that °^ '^'""' 
 thefe boards are fawed out of vines, and fome of them are twelve feet long, 
 and two fpans in breadth *. In the cathedral are fifty-two large marble Cathedra!. 
 pillars arranged in four rows. In the choir is fome very old mofaic-work ; 
 and in the chapel of the holy facrament is a reprefentation of the children 
 of Ifrael gathering manna in the wildernefs, with fome other paintings, 
 by Giiido Rheni. 
 
 lii the T^heatine church is fliewn the window through which it is pre- l^^ieatlne 
 tended the Holy Ghoft came twelve different times in the fhape of a dove, Frequent at. 
 after the death of St. Apollmaris, at the elcdtion of the biQiops his (\ic- p^'^a'^e 0/ the 
 ceffors, and fettled upon thofe who were to be eleded. St.Severus's pulpit ,,''^^ ""^ '" 
 
 ^ I ■ 11 fj • I 1 • 1 • r r the form of a 
 
 of white marble, <sc. is kept here with great veneration. dme. 
 
 On the left-hand near the main entrance of the church of St. Apolli- -^"'-^ SeverusV 
 naris, in the cloyfter, is to be feen the following ancient infcription on ^ A^lunt ,„o«u- 
 ftone fixed in the wall : "tem. 
 
 * PUn. lib. xiv. c- I. ink : "Jovis fimulacrum in JJrhe Populonia ex una (vite) confpidmus tof 
 avis incorruptum : item MaJJiliiS pateram. Metaponti templum "Junonis vitigineis columniijietit. 
 Etiam nuncfcalis teiium Epbefue Diance fcanditur vite una Cypria, ut fertint - - - - Verum ijia 
 ex ftlvejlribits faSia crediderim. ' The xmzgs o( Jupiter m tht c\ty o( Poptdonia, cut out of 
 ' a fingle vine, we fee undecayed for fo many ages ; as Hkewife the difh at Marfeilles. 
 ' The pillars in the temple of 'Juno at Metapontum were of vine-tree : and even the fteps to 
 
 ' the temple of Diana at Ephefus are faid to be made of one Cyprian vine but I take 
 
 ' them to be made of the wild vine.' 
 
 L 2 -Tropagatovi
 
 76 RAVENNA, 
 
 Propagatori. Roma 
 ni. Imperii, fundato. 
 quietis. publicce. D. 
 Fl. Co?iJ}antino. 
 Semper. Aug. Divi 
 Cofiftanti. Filio 
 Set or ins Si II anus 
 V. P. Prcepofitus 
 FabriccE. De-votu. 
 N. M. ^ E. 
 
 The letters at the end of this infcription, fignify Numitji Majejiatique 
 Ejus. 
 
 Near tliis is a grave-ftone, with the following ancient infcription : 
 
 Marcus Coc 
 ceius. 
 
 Epitaph of jVf, Cocceio. M. Pollionis. Nepoti 
 
 ^'—"'^- rrib. Pleb. Deji. 
 
 Leg. Pr. Pr. Prov. in 
 Sicilia. ^caft. 
 
 rrib. Mil. Leg. XL a. 
 
 SeViro Eq. R XFL R. Sf. 
 
 Primitives. Lib. 
 
 FL Fir. 
 
 St. Apollina- The church of St. Apollinaris deferves a traveller's notice. On each 
 usV church, ^jjg ^£ jj ^j.g j^eive marble pillars ; and the cieling is an old, but beau- 
 tiful mofaic-work, reprefenting the three eaftern kings worfhipping the 
 infant Jejus ; and alio feveral faints, with their names infcribed over 
 them. In the center is to be feen the head of the emperor jfujliaian -, 
 and from the gold and filver ornaments in the mofaic-work, this church 
 is commonly called ii dele tfOro, or the golden cieling. Cardinal Ra~ 
 Cardinal's.^- gio, who died in 1687, has a fine monument here of white and black 
 gio'jW. marble, embellifhed with fome excellent flatues. The high altar is in- 
 fulated, and both the fculpture and marble about it are exceeding beau- 
 tiful. 
 St. AntonyV J,-; St. Antoiij?, chapel are feveral fine marble flatues : the altar is or- 
 ^''"t'^- namented with black marble pillars ; and near the entrance are two pil- 
 
 lars of quince-coloured alabafter, which on that account are very re- 
 markable. The altar of the chapel delle Reliquie is decorated with four 
 beautiful pillars of red porphyry. All the other altars in this church are 
 fainting!. [ikewife of marble, and adorned with many excellent pieces of painting. 
 
 Great
 
 RAVENNA. 77 
 
 Great devotion is paid to the body of St. ApoUiuarh ; and on his coffin are Corps ofSt. 
 three filver tablets, on which is engraven a long account of his life and P°'"""'2- 
 martyrdom. Near the entrance of the church, on the roof, are two 
 mofaic pieces, one reprefenting Theodoric'i palace, and the other over-againfl Mo/aU-wori,. 
 it the old harbour of Ravenna. 
 
 In the wall of the convent of St. Vitalis is an antique monument, on 6'^ Vitalis'j 
 one fide of which is a reprefentation of a man, and on the other a wo-^'"'"^"'- 
 man, with the following infcription : 
 
 Oh'a P. P. jlncientefi- 
 
 Tertulla "'''^'■ 
 
 V. Ann. XV. M. Villi. D. X. 
 
 Olius TertuUianus 
 Pilia pientijjimce & Jibt. 
 
 Near the door is the marble monument of Ifaac, one of the Exarchs^ 
 with a Greek infcription. 
 
 This convent belongs to the BetiediSfines, and the annual revenues of 
 it amount to upwards of thirteen thousand Jcudi. 
 
 The pavement of St. Vitalise church is very beautiful, and the mo- Church. 
 faic-work in the choir is extremely curious ; Ciampini has inferted a cop- 9'''""''' ^''" 
 per-plate of it in his treatife de Operibiis Mufroh. It feems to reprefent the 
 confecration of this church. The emperor Jujlinian, the archbifhop 
 Maximilian, and feveral other affiftants, are to be feen on one fide j and 
 the emprefs 'Theodora, with her retinue, on the other. The cieling of 
 this church is painted in frefco. On the pavement is fhewn the fpot 
 on which St. Urficinm was beheaded. Near it are fome beautiful 
 pieces of painting, one of which, by Federico Boracio, a native of Ra- Paintingj. 
 "vejina, reprefents the martyrdom of St. Vitalis. It was painted in the 
 year 1583 ; and the connoiffeurs are particularly pleafed with the repre- 
 fentation of a woman fuckling her infant, in this piece. 
 
 The chapel of St. Urftcimis is called SanBa SanSloritm ; and on ac- Sanda Safto- 
 count of the extraordinary fandity of this place, no woman is permitted '^"™" 
 to enter it. 
 
 On the altar della Madonna ftand three beautiful white marble ftatucs 
 of the virgin Mary, and two angels. Over another altar, which is like- 
 wife of white marble, is an excellent Pieta betwixt two angels, copied 
 from an original piece in the church of St. Juftina at Padua. 
 
 The altar of St. Vitalis has alfo fome curious pieces of fculpture in 
 white marble. Behind it is Hiewn the well, into which the body of that faint 
 was thrown. Near the choir is^yc-e^Az/^/ijreprefented under the figure of^"^''"^ 
 a dragon, and two marble bajo-relievo s (landing over-againft each other. ^'"'' 
 
 This
 
 ^8 RAVENNA. 
 
 This church having frequently been damaged by inundations, the fol- 
 lowing infcription on a pilailer is addrefled to every pious traveller : 
 
 Infcriptkn X),' Die XXPIII. Maji MDCXXXll. 
 
 "lat'^^s ""'"' ^^^ Jacris parcens ruit iinda hue ajque^ Viator ^ 
 
 Mollttcr ut jaceant jiumina no/lra, roga. 
 
 * On the 28th day of May, 1636, the raging flood, without regard 
 , ' to the facrednefs of the place, penetrated even thus far. O traveller, 
 
 ' kindly pray that our river may keep quietly within its bed.' 
 
 Near the entrance of the church is a bajjo-relievo, reprefenting four 
 Reprefintatwn pgrfons in a Romati drefs, to whom four others are bringing an ox. It 
 
 of ajacrijicc, ' , , ^ ^ 
 
 may poffibly reprefent a facrifice, though no idol is to be feen ; and, 
 F It in it contrary to the rules of perlpedlive, the fartheft figure of the groupe 
 
 feems to be the largeft. 
 
 In the garden of the convent of St. Vifalis is a chapel confecrated to 
 
 St. Celjiis and St.Nazarius, built by Galia Placidia daughter of TJ&^o^oyJai 
 <r , f u ike Great, filler of the emperors Arcadius and Honorius, and mother to 
 emperor'^o- ValcntlniaJt II. This chapel, which is paved with marble, feems to have 
 nonus, ^c been intended for a family burial-place ; for there are three tombs in it, 
 
 and on the altar is the following infcription : 
 
 Viator, qui antiqim invifts, hic tergemino cJauJi marmore jacent Galla 
 Placidia, Honorius I'heodofii Senioris Imperatorii Filii *, Cotijlantius Placidia 
 Conjtix, ac Valentinianiis Tertius eorum Filius, mundaiice CelfUudinis reliquia 
 & terrcfice caducitatis argumentinn. 
 
 * Traveller, who comeft in fearch of monuments of antiquity, behold 
 ' the poor remains of worldly grandeur, and an inftance of the tranfi- 
 ' torinefs of fublunary glorv ! within thefe three marble repofitories lie 
 ' inclofed Galla Placidia, Honorius fon of the emperor Theodcfius the 
 ' elder, Conflantiiis the hufband of Placidia, and Valentinian III. their 
 ' fon.' 
 
 Clofe by is an Italian infcription, fignifying that Placidia lies in the 
 large white marble repoiitory behind the altar, with her brother Hono- 
 rius on her right-hand, and her huiband Conjlantius, together with their 
 fon Valentinian III. in a maufoleum on the left. 
 
 * It fhould htfil'im, and not fili: : for Conflantius, Placidia's hufband, was not defcended 
 of the imperial family ; but only of a Rcnian patrician houfe. [Filii feems to refer to Pia- 
 cidits and Honorius, who were both the children oi Tbeodoftusy the mafculine gender being 
 ufed here for both, j 
 
 Placidia
 
 RAVENNA. 79 
 
 Placidia is faid likewife to have founded the church of St. John at Ra- ^ether?\3.- 
 wnna, if the infcription quoted by Gruter, p. 1048. but not to ^^']oYm:s"(hun/'. 
 feen in that city, deferves any credit. For it cannot be denied that the 
 vow made to St. John the evangelift, when flie was in peril of being 
 Hiipwrecked, renders it very fufpicious. The infcription runs thus : 
 
 SanBiJfim. ac. Beatijjimo 
 
 Apojlolo. "Johanni. R'umigelijlce 
 
 Galla. Placidia. Augujia 
 
 Cum. fuo. Filio 
 
 Plac. Vatentiniano. Aug. 
 
 Et Filio. fuo 
 
 Jujla. Grata. Honoria. Aug. 
 
 Liberation! s. maris 
 
 Vot. folvit. 
 
 From this it may be inferred, that the vow might not include the 
 building of the church ; but only the eredling of this monument, or 
 votive table. 
 
 At one corner of the Francifcan convent in the public ftreet is to be DanteV tomb. 
 feen the tomb of the celebrated Florentine poet, Dante Alighieri, under 
 cover, and inclofed within iron rails > and over his bufto the following 
 words are infcribed within a laurel wreath : 
 
 * To Virtue and Honour.*; 
 
 And near it, on the left fide : 
 Op. 
 Petri 
 
 Lombardi. 
 
 ' The work of Pietro Lombardi' 
 
 On
 
 So RAVENNA, 
 
 On the right-fide of the poet are the following Latin verfes in rhyme, 
 which, as appears by the letters 5. V. F. i. e. Sibi Vivem Fecit, over 
 them, were compofed by Dante himfelf : 
 
 His tpitafb. 'Jura Monarchist Superos, Phlegethonta Lacufque 
 
 Luflrando cecini, voluerunt fata quofque. 
 Sed quia pars cejjit melioribm hojpita caflris, 
 FaBoremque Juum petiit felicior ajlris. 
 Hie claudor Dantes patriis extorris ab oris, 
 ^em genuit parvi Florentia mater amoris. 
 
 ' Of monarchs rights I fung, and tun'd my lay 
 
 * To hell's dark regions, and the realms of day. 
 ' My better part now foars above the ftars, 
 
 ' In pcrfedl blifs, free from inteftine jars; 
 
 * My body lies within this narrow tomb, 
 
 * For ever exil'd from its native home *.' 
 
 On the left is the following infcription cut in marble : 
 
 Exulem a Florentia D ant em liber at ijjime excepit Ravenna vivo fruens, 
 mortuum colem. Magnis cineribus, licet in parvOy magnijice parent arunt 
 Polentani Principes erigendo, Bembus Preetor luculentius extrtiendo pretiofum 
 Mulis & Apollini Maufolceum, quod injuria temporum petie fquakm Etnin. 
 Doinmico Maria Curjio Leg. Jobawie Salviato Prolegato, magniCivis cineres 
 patriae reconciliare cultus perpetuitate curantibiis, S. P. ^ Rljure ac are 
 Juo tanqiiam thejaurum Juum munivit, inftauravit, ornavit.- 
 
 Anno Domini M. DC. XCIL 
 
 ' Rairnna having very kindly received Dante, when ho^'as exiled 
 
 * from Florence, enjoyed him when living, and reveres his memory 
 
 * when dead. The funeral honours paid to his venerable afhes were 
 
 * great, though they are confined in a narrow tomb, firft eredted by the 
 
 * princes -f Poletani ; but the prsetor Bembo raifed this more fplendid 
 ' maufoleum, facred to Apolio and the Mufes. When this had fuffered 
 ' by the injury of time, the moft illuftrious Domenico Maria Cur/i be- 
 
 * ing legate, and Giovanni Sahiati vice-legate, &c. the fenate and peo- 
 
 * pie of Ravenna, by their own authority, and at their own expence, re- 
 
 * Florence. 
 
 t Gu!,!o Poletani, to whom Dante fled for prote£lion, was at that time prince and lord 
 of Ravenna. See Vclaterr. Cemm, Vrb, Hi. xxi. p. 771. 
 
 ' paired
 
 Fm?i RAF E N NA to BO LOG N A. U 
 
 • paired, embellinied, and fenced (his monument with iron palifadoes 
 
 * as their moft valuable treafurc yf. D. 1692.' 
 
 Under fome Lad'/i verfes by Bernardo Bembo, on his embellifliing this 
 tomb with a marble arch, &c. is the following infcription : 
 
 An. Sal. M. CCCa LXXXIII. VI. Kal Jun. 
 Bernardiis Bembiis aere ftio pofuit. 
 
 * Erected by Bernardo Bembo at his own expence, in the year of our 
 * Redemption 1483/ 
 
 Mifon and others afcribe the repairing of this monument to the famous 
 cardinal Pietro Bembo ; but the fubfcription and year both fhew, that 
 the honour is due to his father Bertiardo Betiibo, a nobleman of Venice ; 
 with which like wife agrees the teftimony of Pocciantius de Script. Florcnt. 
 p. 45. But that author is miftaken in placing this tranfadlion in the year 
 I4'53 ; whereas it fhould be 1483, as appears by the infcription above. 
 Dante was born in 1265, and died in 1321. The animofities of the '^"'^ '"■'^*'"* 
 Bianchi and Nei'i factions drove him from Florence., his native country ; 
 for the former, with whichD«;zz'^fided, being worfled, were driven out 
 of the city. This poet's proper name was Durantes, which, during his ^^" P''°f'*' 
 childhood, was contraded into Dante, the name he was ever after 
 known by *. Buonanni affirms, that Aligbieri was only the name of his 
 iather; but that his right family name was iJe'/Zo -f-. As the poetical genius 
 of Petrarch was firft kindled by his pailion for his beloved Laura., fo 
 Dante'?, genius for poetry appeared very early in paffionate addrefTes to 
 the ohjeft of his love ;|:. Beatrix Portitiaria and Qentucca were the two His mijlrffts. 
 nymphs whofe names he has conveyed down to poflerity ; and Dante, 
 in a particular poem, introduces Theology under the name of his be- 
 loved Beatrix, then lately deceafed. His treatife de Monarchia, in which Why hated hy 
 he defends the emperor's power in fecular affairs againft the ufurpation *^o^^' °£^i 
 of the Pope, caufed him to be declared a heretic by the court of Rome. dedarU a he- 
 
 About three Italian miles from Kavenna, on the road to Forli, and T'^'"^- 
 near the river Ponco, is fhewn the fpot on which the French, in the year 
 15 1 2, obtained a fignal vidlory over the Papal and Spanijlj army; but 
 with the lofs of their brave general Gajion de Foix duke of Ncfjtours, ^lf^l,f^ 
 
 d. 
 
 * Volaierr. lib. xxi. p. 770. t Difcorfo fopra PInferno de Daiitc, p. 2, 3, 184. 
 
 X Propertius fays, 
 
 Ingenium nobis fola puella dedit. 
 
 ' Beauty alone infpir'd my infant mufc' 
 
 Vol. III. M This
 
 82 From RylVEN NA to I MO LA. 
 
 Tills. nobleman who was then only twenty-four years of age, wis cele- 
 brated for his valour and conduft, and loft his life in the purfuit of the 
 enemy, which very much damped the joy of the French army. la 
 memory of this battle Fictro Donato Cafi-, hifliop of A^ir^r?//, and governor 
 of this province under Find III. ereded a fquare pillar here, with the 
 following infcriptions : 
 
 On the weft-fide, near the pedeftal : 
 
 Monument of Videbis hofpcs huc pariwi attolkm caputs infcripfiis i/le quid -oelit lapis 
 the buttle in tihi. Rccenjet tllatn nempe chidcm maxlmam Galli at que Ibcri exercitus, 
 Tuii ^' '"''" ^^miliam qua pen} tot am maciilavlt f anguine. 
 
 * Stranger, look up, and thou wilt fee what the infcription on this 
 
 * ftone means ; it gives thee an account of that very great flaughter of 
 
 * the French and Spa/vJIi armies, by which alrnoft the whole territory of 
 
 * Romagna was deluged with blood.' 
 
 The word cladcs does not relate to the flaughter of the French^ but to 
 the Pope's troops, which the bifliop conceals under the general name of 
 Spaniards ; probably from a tendernefs for the honour of the Pope, be- 
 ing willing, as far as poffible, to fupprefs the memory of the vidlory 
 gained by the Moft Chriftian King, Leivis XII. when he made war 
 upon the Vicar of Chrift. Ferdinand the Catholic King was indeed at that 
 time in alliance with the Pope; but his auxiliaries did not make up the 
 greateft part of the Papal army. 
 
 On the north-fide of the pillar are thefe words : 
 
 Fauh III. Font. Max. fedente 
 Pefrus Donatus Cajius Epifc. Nam. Utr. Sign. Refer, dum Mmilia pra;- 
 Jideret locumque hunc conjiiSlh Rai)ennatis celebritate clarutn diligenter 
 explordjjet, ne tantce rei memoriam "cetujlas temporum aboleret, hoc ere£io. 
 marmore confervandam curavit. 
 
 * In the pontificate of Faul III. Fietro Do?2ato Cefi bifhop of Narni, Sec. 
 ' after a careful furvey of this place, famous for the bloody battle of Ra- 
 
 * venna, erefted this marble, that the memory of that fignal adtion 
 ' might not be loft by the injuries of time *.' 
 
 * Some other infcriptions to the fame purpofe, fignifying that twenty thoufand men 
 were killed on each fide, are omitted. This circumftance, as well as the natural conftruc- 
 tion of the firft infcription mentioned above, fliews that clades may be very juftly applied to 
 the French as well as the Spanijb army. 
 
 The
 
 From RAV EN NA to I MO LA. Z)^ 
 
 The effufion of blood, however, was not fo terrible as thefe infcrip- 
 lions reprefent it, though fupported by the authorities of Platina and 
 Cicicotti ; for both armies put together hardly exceeded thirty thoufand 
 men. And Guicciiirditii, lib. x. fays, that though there was no exacft 
 account taken of the flain in this battle, they amount-^d at lead to ten 
 thoufand, and only one third of that number on the fide of the French, 
 Juftiniani, Hift. Venet. lib. xi. />. 237. affirms, that the French loft fix 
 thoufmd foot, and kvi;n hundred horfe ; and the Spaniards eight hun- 
 dred horfe, and above eight thoufand foot. This memorable battle, 
 -which does great honour to both parties, was fought on the 12th day 
 of April, 1 5 1 2, which in that year happened to be Eafter-day. 
 
 On the fouth-fide of the above-mentioned pilafter are thefe words : 
 
 AElafunt hac pridic iJus ApriVn Anno a part u Virginis fupra fefqui mil- 
 Icfumim duodecimo, Julio II. Pont. Max. Chrijiiancrmn Rempublicam Gu- 
 bcrnante. 
 
 ' This battle was fought on the 12th day 0^ April, in the year of 
 ' Chrift 1 51 2, in the pontificate of 'Julius II. Qf^.' 
 
 • And over this : 
 
 Mine poll, cruejita Gallorum viSloria GaftoJie pere7?7pto, Hifpanorum re^ 
 liqiiia coajermit. Pojtremo capitur Kavenna a viSloribus ac diripitur. 
 
 Abi. 
 
 ' This way fled the remains of the Spaniards defeated by the French, 
 ' whofe bloody viftory coft them their commander Ga/lon ; and after- 
 ' wards Ra'uenna was taken and plundered by the vidorious enemy. 
 
 ' Farewell. ' 
 
 As we were defirous of reaching Piacenza at the time of its yearly 
 fair, and as a contagious diftemper raged for fome weeks at Ferrara, we 
 were deterred from viliting this laft city *. The roads are likewife fo 
 bad that, though Ferrara is but five ftages from Raiienna, it is a whole 
 day's journey ; and unlefs it be in very dry weather, there is no travelling 
 the neareft way. 
 
 * The bloody-flux has this Tpring been very fatal all over Italy, fwecping away old and 
 young. Some days there is no going into a church at Rome but one fees (according to the 
 fhocking cuftom of the country) corpfes lying in open coffins from mornin^ to ni^fht. 
 Poffibly this cuftom of expofing the dead was originally intended to remove all fufpicion of 
 poifon, or a violent death. 
 
 M 2 The
 
 Country f'lom 
 Ravenna to 
 Bologna. 
 
 84 FAENZA and I M L A. 
 
 The diftance from Ravenna to Bolcgna is five ftages, and the road lies 
 through Faenza, Imola, and S. Nicolo. 1 his road, efpccially after heavy rains, 
 is fomething dangerous, as it runs clofe to the river IJ Afhoni -, but this 
 is but a fmall part of the road, and is afterwards compenfated by the 
 pleafure of travelling between delightful rows of trees, and a fertile 
 country on each fide, divided into fquare inclofures by ditches and hedges 
 interwoven with vines. The foil, though it be fruitful, is more clayey, 
 and not fo black and rich as in the fouthern parts of Italy. Juft on the 
 other fide of Ravenna I perceived that the common people pronounced 
 the letter /'like the German fch ; fo that inftead of /uhto, they hy fchiibito, 
 or as the. French would write the latter, chonbito. This pronunciation pre- 
 vails as far as Bologna; and the inhabitants of this trait of land may not 
 unproperly be called the Italian Sivabians. 
 
 Faenza is famous all over Italy for its fine earthen-ware, few places 
 affording fuch good clay for that purpofe as the neighbourhood of this 
 city. The name of Majolica given to this ware is a compliment paid to 
 the inventor of it. 
 
 The palace, or council-houfe, the fountain on the market-place, the 
 cathedral (in which are fome good bajfo-relievos, tombs, and fix beauti- 
 ful fiatues in the Capella di S. Pietro) are the moft remarkable objeds 
 at Faejiza. 
 Inaola* Ifnola, anciently called Forum Cornelii, lies on the Via Emilia, which 
 
 leads from Bologna to Rimini ; but affords nothing worth feeing, except 
 the cathedral, in which is a fine monument of cardinal Gozzadini, and 
 three ivnz Jarcophagi of fine marble, adorned with good flatues. 
 
 Swabian dia 
 lea of this 
 country. 
 
 Faenza. 
 Fine earthen- 
 'ware made 
 there. 
 
 Bologna, April i6, 1730. 
 
 LETTER
 
 B L G NA, 85 
 
 LETTER LXV. 
 
 Defcription of the City of Bologna, 
 
 SIR, 
 
 BOLOGNA, on account of its extent, the number of its nobility l^^'os"^- '"■ 
 and other inhabitants, and the importance of its trade, is, next ^o^n'tuation. 
 Rome, unqueftionably the fined and molt wealthy city in the whole ec- 
 clefiaftical ftate. Ity circuit is between five and fix Italian miles ; but 
 the length of it greatly exceeds the breadth, and is fuppofed to refemble 
 a (hip, the tower of ^y?;;^/// being the mart. The number of inhabi-'^'-y"^''''"-'^'"'' 
 tants in this city is faid to be near ninety thoufand j but the whole diftridt, 
 which includes three hundred and eight cities, towns, and villages, con- 
 tains three hundred and eight thoufand fouls. The ancient name of this 
 city was Felftna, from Feljiniis, a Tujcari king, who is fuppofed to have Iti name, 
 built it twenty-five years before the foundation of Rome. The name of 
 Bononia is, by fome, derived from a fucceflbr of Feljinus, called Bonus ; but 
 others derive it from the Boji. This city had for a long fucceffion of years 
 retained a kind of liberty under the emperors of Gennany, namely, till the 
 year 1278, when it was refigned, with the referve of fome privileges, 
 to pope Nicholas III But from inteftine commotions, and wars with the Hoiv it cams 
 neighbouring ftates, it continued in a fludluating condition till the ^on-'"""'^^t''f'''- 
 tificate of pope 'Julius II. who taking advantage of the Venetian war, 
 made himfelf abfolute mafter of it, and annexed it to the papal domi- 
 nions, by expelling the family of the Betitevoglio's : however, fome of that 
 family are the leading men of the city even to this day. On account of 
 their voluntary fubmiffion, it was at firft flipulated, that thcBologncfe fliould 
 have the privilege of keeping a nuncio at the court of Rofne, and an au- 
 ditor in the Rota -, that no citadel fhould be built ; and that the effeds 
 of the citizens fliould not be liable to confifcation on any pretence what- 
 foever. This compact has hitherto been punftually obferved ; fo that it 
 is faid of Bologna, as an extraordinary circumftance, that it is a dtyjenza 
 ffco e Citadella. Ecclefiaftical affairs are decided by the archbifhop, 2.nd its goveifP. 
 civil rnatters by a cardinal, with the tirle of Legatus a latere, affifted by a'"'^"'- 
 prelate as vice-legate. The legate is either changed or confirmed every 
 three years. The prefident of the council, which confifts of fifty fe- 
 ntitors, is the Gonfalonierc, who is at the head of the police and revenue. 
 
 The
 
 S6 BOLOGNA. 
 
 Genius of the The Bokgficfe arc famous for their vivacity and wit; and particularly 
 inhabitants. fo|- {]-,(, fatidical poignancy of their jcfts. However, a ftrangcr no where 
 meets with more civility than at B'oiogjia. But their afTiduous application 
 to their feveral trades and manufadures is a much more valuable quality 
 Sili tnanufac- than the former. This city carries on a large trade in filk ; and the little 
 tures. river Row, a branch of which runs through Bologna, is extremely con- 
 
 St/i-mil/s. venient for their filk-mills, in which a lingle wheel often turns round 
 four or five thoufand little cylinders or fmaller wheels with furprifmg 
 volocity, and, efpecially if the filk be good and ftrong, does more work 
 than fo many thoufand hands in winding it. The motion of this wheel 
 is fo regulated, as to be eafily flopped, and then the whole machine (lands 
 ftill, as in the filk-mill at Utrecht ; for the lifting up of a weight of a 
 fingle pound only, that hangs in the water, does it. 
 Itstradt. The 5(5/?^;?^ damafks, fattins, tafFeties, and velvets, are in great re- 
 
 pute. This city alfo carries on a confiderable trade in flax and hemp, 
 and great quantities of the latter are exported to Venice, for fails and 
 cordage. It likewife fupplies the neighbouring provinces with its oil and 
 mne. wine. The wine made about Bolog?m is fo ftrong, that when it firft 
 
 comes from the prefs it is generally diluted with a fourth part of water, 
 except that appointed for the facramcnt, which is made by itfelf, and 
 without any mixture : this net wine is to be purchafed at the convents. 
 
 Many ingenious works are here made of walnut-tree ; for the country 
 abounds with thofe trees. The quinces which grow here are alfo very 
 large, and of an exquifite flavour. Bologna is likewife celebrated for 
 Effenees. efleuccs, Aqua vitce, foap, and fnuff; but more particularly for i':s The- 
 e icuies, c. ^1^^^^ which is Openly, and with no fmall folemnity, prepared in the 
 public elaboratory ; and another alcxipharinic, highly efteemed, which is 
 called Elettuario di Mart'uio. Near the river Setta is found good rock 
 cryflial, which at Bologna is wrought into fnuff-boxes, Juflres, ^c. 
 
 The nuns of this city are very ingenious in making moft beautiful 
 Artificial artificial flowers of filver, filk, muflin, enamel, ifinglafs, Gff. And 
 jio-Mcrs. thouoh the befl: fort of flowers are made only for prefents, yet abun- 
 
 dance of them are to be met with in the fhops, where travellers may buy 
 them at a moderate price. Fruits of all kinds are alfo imitated in wax, 
 fo as fcarcely to be difcerned at firft fight from the produds of nature. 
 Bologna dogs. Formerly little dogs of the Bologna breed brought no inconfiderable 
 fums to this city ; but at prefent the ridiculous pafi^on for thofe animals 
 is fo far exploded, that even in Bologna itfelf, by the decreafe of the breed, 
 they are become fo fcarce, that one of any tolerable beauty is valued at 
 four or five guineas. Some people tell us, the means ufed for checking 
 the growth of thefe creatures is, to rub their legs and back as foon as 
 they are brought forth with fpirits of wine, and afterwards frequently 
 
 repeating
 
 B L G N A. '^y 
 
 repeating the operation. If this be true, the effecl muft arife from the 
 heat of the liquor, which dries up the vital juices; and pofliblythis recipe 
 may be better grounded than what is afferted in the Mtjccllanea Ciiriofa 
 Medico-Phyjica, publiflied 2X Le'pjick in 1670, 'uiz. If you anoint the 
 back-bone of a new-born infant with the fat of rats, moles, and bats, 
 they will never exceed the ftatue of a fmall dwarf. 
 
 This country alfo abounds in honey and wax, great quantities of which 
 are exported; and all kinds of provifions are here exceeding good, and 
 in great plenty. St. Marco and il Felegrino have for fome years part been /„„. 
 famous for being the befl inns in all Italy. Fowls of all kinds in thefe parts ExciiUy.t 
 are very large, and ol a particular fine flavour; e!])€cially the pigeons, -^.'^''' ""■*' 
 as they are all over Lombardy. The BJcgiia cervellaty and its other '^"^"'' 
 dried faufages, tongues, &c. arc famous not only throughout Europe^ 
 but are well known in the Eaft and IVcj} Indies. 
 
 The Bologneje affirm, that their cheefe is not inferior to that of Par- 
 may and they fell a great quantity of it under the name of Parmafan 
 cheefe. From all thefe ciicumflances it n.ay be e^fily conceived how 
 Bologna came to be ftiled la Graffa, or the Fat. The fniall branch of 
 the ReJio, which runs through their city, has been improved, and ren- 
 dered extremely commodious for trade; a canal of communication hav- 
 ing been cut from it to the lake of Valle diMarara, from whence they lend 
 their merchandizes io Ferrara and other plices (Ituated on the Po. 
 
 The Bologneje ladies drefs entirely in the French fafhion. The women- LihrtycftLt 
 of the middle clafs generally appear in a black gown, with a black fiik '"''"^''• 
 veil over their heads: but the female fex here in general enjoy a greater 
 freedom than in mod cities in Italy. I was furpiized to fee fo great a 
 number of blind people in this city, and have not received any f.itif- 
 failory account of the caufe. One alfo meets with not a few perfons 
 walking the flreets with fpeiftacles on, who are yet fo far from labourino' 
 under any weaknefs of fight, that they roll their eyes about on all fices 
 without once looking through their glaffes. This fafliion is of Spanijh 
 origine, and is fuppofed to be a fign of greater gravity than ordinary : 
 this has recommended it to the generality of the monks and clergy. 
 
 The houfes in mofl of the principal ftreets have before them a kind Pcruco':. 
 of portico, which fupports the fc;cond ftory. Thefe muft be allowed to 
 be very convenient in windy or rainy weather, and in fliading the houfes 
 from the fun; but they deprive them of that ornament which they would 
 receive from a fine front, or an elegant entrance. As the pillars of thefe 
 porticp's are verv irregular before different houles, fome being high, others 
 Low ; fome round, others fquare or odlangular ; fome of (lone, and others 
 again of wood, they are no great ornaments to the city. Thefe portico's 
 or galleries ferve only for walking 3 and that part of the llreets where 
 
 the
 
 88 BOLOGNA. 
 
 the carriages pafs is confiderably lower *. The roofs of the houies are 
 of tiles, but flat, with a kind of parapet towards the ftreets. 
 77.C Afir.elli The tower degU Afinelli is by fome, but erroneoufiy, faid to be the- 
 7ouf/-. Jiighcfl: in all Italy ; for the cupola of St. Peter % at Rome far exceeds it. 
 
 Th^heightof itisbut three hundred and feventy-or,e feet,and it is afccnded 
 bv four hundred and fixty-four lleps ; of which four hundred and forty- 
 nine bring you to the gallery, and fifteen more to the very top, where 
 the bells hang. The report of a hamper of gilt iron hanging out of 
 this tower in terrcrem to confeiTors, is without foundation. A monk, for 
 divulging fome particulars confeffed to him, having, as the ftory goes, 
 been put in this hamper, and left to periih. This tower is fquare, and 
 the fteps by which it is afcended are only of wood. It derives its name 
 RidMeonits from Gerardo AfinelU, who built it at his own charge in 1 109. It is a 
 ^""^ ' common faying here, that from the tower of Afinelli one has a view of 
 
 Cento e cinque Citta, i. e. a hundred and five cities. But this is no more 
 than a pun upon the word Cento, the name of a fmall town a little to the 
 northward of Bologna ; and to make up the five, they bring in Bologna with 
 Imola, Butrio, Ferrara, and Modena. A like piece of wit one hears in France 
 concerning the profped: from a mountain near the village of Trente, be- 
 tween Beziers and Narhonne, viz. yai vu d'une mcntagne Trente & deux 
 vil/es ; i. e. ' I have fcen from the top of a mountain two-and-thirty 
 ' cities ; ' but it means no more than, I have feen the village Trente and 
 two cities ; Trente being the Fre7ich word for thirty. 
 Leaning t(yiver Near the AjijielH tower is another fquare tower, called Garifenda, which 
 eAGanienda. p^j^ig fome derive from the name of the perfon who built it, to emulate 
 the above-mentioned Gerardo A/iftelli ; and others from the nam.e of the 
 architeift. Its height is now reduced to a hundred and thirty feet, the 
 foundation having fo far given way, that a great part of it fell, or was 
 taken down. The inclination of this tower on one fide is fuch, that 
 a plumb-line let down from the top, falls feven feet from the wall at 
 the bottom. It is ridiculous to imagine that this tower was originally 
 built in this manner, as it would have been the height of folly to have 
 laid out fo much money, only to fliew that fuch a thing as a leaning 
 tower might be built. This may be demonftrated at a much lefs ex- 
 pence with the men of a draught-board, or a thoufand other ways; and 
 confequently no great fkill was required to raife fuch a firucflure. But 
 that this is not the only leaning tower in Italy is well known to thofe 
 who have been at Pifa, Ravefina, Mantua, or Venice. 
 
 The tower of Garijenda is quite covered in at the top ; and the city- 
 council, in whofe hands the keys are kept, feldom indulge any perfon 
 
 * Tbcfe portico's are fomewhat like what they call the Rovji at Chejier. 
 
 5 with
 
 VIII. 
 
 B L G N A. 89 
 
 with the ufe of them to go up the tower, by which it is manlfeil that they 
 have no great confidence in the ftrength of this pretended mafler-piecc of 
 architetfture ; and, as flir as po{llble, endeavour to prevent any motion 
 in it. In the walls of this tower, as in that oi A/inelli, are holes iix: 
 or feven feet above one another, for the conveniency of fixing fcaffolds 
 for necefl'ary repairs. 
 
 The palace in which the vice-legate, the gofifaloniere, and other of- Legan'i {a. 
 ficers of ftate have their apartments, and the feveral boards and courts 
 .of juftice are held, flands on the great market-place. The front is two 
 hundred and eighteen common paces in length, which, in A journey 
 to Italy, publiHied under the name of one de Seine, is increafed to one 
 thoufand four hundred and twenty feet. This, however, is but a fmall 
 exaggeration, in comparifon of the many hundred palpable untruths 
 with which that book is ftufted. 
 
 Over the entrance flands a brafs ftatue of pope Grr^or^' XIII. who'^''"'«^?'^Gr«- 
 was a native of Bologfia; the weight of it is eleven thoufand three hun-^*"^^ 
 dred pounds, and the workmanfhip does great honour to Mingaiiti, the 
 artill; who made it. On the left-hand as one enters the door, is the 
 flatue of pope Boniface VIII. 0/Boniface 
 
 The interview between the emperor Charles V. and pope Ckrnent VII. 
 in 1529, when that prince fubmitted to be crowned by the pope, is com- 
 memorated here by the following infcription on a copper-plate : 
 
 CLEMENS VIL PONT. MAX. 
 Ut Chrijliance Reip.JiiJtumfon?jaret, cum Carolo V. linper. Bonotiice con~ 
 grelJus eft: In banc Urbent Ccefar Non. Novemb. a Chrijli Natali 1529 in- 
 troiity pro 'Templi foribus de More Pont. Max. adoravit. Ejus hortatus con- 
 filio Cum reftituto in Mediolani avitum Regtium Francijco Sjortia ac Venetis 
 Pace data cunSla Italia otium ac tranquillitatein din optatam reddidiffet. 
 Imperii coronam hoc pompce ordine accepit. Feneftra hc?c ad dextram fiiit 
 Porta Pretoria., ed greffui Cafar per poiitem fublicium in adem D.Petronii 
 dediiSlus, Sacris 7'ite peraBis a Pont. Max. Auream Coronam Imperii catcra- 
 que infignia accepit ; inde cum eo triumpham, exercitu ornatijjimo praeunte, 
 iirbem pcrluflravit. Cum ajnbo in eodem Prat or io tot am hyemem cojijunofijf'. 
 de fumma deliberantes egijent, Cafar poft fuum advenum Menfc V. in Ger- 
 maniajn ad tumultus impiorum ci'viu?n fedandos, & Bellum Turcicum cum 
 Ferdinando Fratre Pamionia Rege apparandum profcBus eft. Ilujus rei 
 monumejitum hoc Innocentio Cibo Card. Legato auBore^ Uberto Gambara 
 XJrbis Praf. referente, S. P. ^ B. extare voluit. 
 
 Non. Nov. MDXXX. 
 
 Vo L. III. N His
 
 90. 
 
 Hoiofar 
 Charles V. 
 huinbhd him- 
 J'elf to the 
 Pope, 
 
 BOLOGNA. 
 
 ' His holinefs pope Clement VII. tor the tranquillity of the Chriftiah 
 commonwealth, had an interview at Bologna with the emperor 
 Charles V. in this city on the fifth day of November., in the year 1529 
 from the birth of Chrift, who paid the cuftomary veneration to his 
 hoiinefs before the gate, of the cathedral ; and having, at the pope's 
 exhortation, given the long-wiHi'd-for tranquillity to all Italy, by re- 
 ftoring Francefco Sforza to his hereditary dominions the dutchy of Milan, 
 and by granting peace to the Venetians, he received from the hands of his 
 Holinefs the imperial crown, with the following ceremony : The win- 
 dow on the right was the ^r^^/cmm-gate through which the emperor 
 entered, and was condudled over a wooden bridge to St. PetroJiius's 
 church, where, after divine fervice had been folemnly performed, he 
 received from the Pope's hands the golden imperial crown, and all 
 the other regalia ; and when this ceremony was over, thefe illuftrious 
 perfons went in a triumphant procefhon through the city, preceded 
 by a fine army. They fpent the whole winter in the fame palace, 
 concerting dcfigns of the higheft importance, and emulating each 
 other in reciprocal tokens of regard and affection ; and the emperor, 
 about five months after his arrival in this city, fet out for Germany, to 
 quell the feditions of his rebellious fubjeds, and, together with Fer- 
 divand his brother, king of Hungary, to make preparations for a war 
 agalnft the Turks. In memory of fuch a glorious tranfadtion, this mo- 
 nument was erefted by cardinal Cito, legate, and the fenate and peo- 
 ple oi Bologna, on the fifth day of November, in the year 1530.' 
 
 This infcription fays, that Charles V. paid the ufual veneration to the 
 pope, without mentioning what that ceremony was. According to Jo- 
 viia Mafeniiis and Fnmdjhcrgs hifi:ory, the emperor kiffed the Pope's 
 foot : but Burnet, in his Hijlory of the Reformation, fays, that the Pope, 
 whom the Reformation, already begun in Germany, had probably infpired 
 with fentiments of moderation, drew back his foot, and cordially em- 
 braced the emperor. Even Jovius obferves, that the Pope, after the 
 emperor was crowned, had the difcretion not to fuffer Charles V. to 
 hold his ftirrup ; which probably, however, was far from the emperor's 
 intention, who had brought a powerful army along with him, and had 
 already given pope demerit VII. to underftand, that his filial obedience 
 to his Holinefs knew its proper bounds, when any unbecoming condef- 
 cenfion were required of him*: and even when he was -iX. Bologna, 
 
 Charles 
 
 * The Pope was obliged to permit feveral very exprefs limitations of his authoritj', and 
 confirmations of all the imperial rights before C'/wfa V. would take the formulary oath. 
 
 The
 
 B L G N A. 9] 
 
 Charles V. in a public affembly of the Pope and cardinals, infiftod on a 
 free council. When the Pope interrupted the imperial fecretary of ftate 
 (who in a Latin fpecch was urging the fitnefs of fuch a meafure) with 
 the following reprimand : ^tare Tu mibi Jic contradicere aiides, & domi' 
 num contm me incitas f i. e. How dare you thus contradidl me, and fet 
 your mafter againft me?' Charles took up the cudgels, and in the fame 
 language boldly delivered with his own mouth what he had before re- 
 commended to his fecrctary *. 
 
 Nothing can be more haughty and arrogant than the compliment that Former priu 
 the fervi fervorum, as they were pleafed to call themfelves, expeded "■^'''^ ''^"' 
 fliould be paid them by crowned-heads, namely, that of holding the 
 ftirrup ; which they formerly had fo much at heart, that they would not 
 fuffer themfelves to be attended in any other manner by the Roman em- 
 perors, than as if they were equerries or grooms of the holy See. 
 
 At firft, indeed, princes might, partly out of complaifance, and 
 partly out of a blind religious zeal, have been drawn in to perform fuch 
 an unbecoming office ; but it was not long before the Popes claimed it 
 as an eflabliflied right. It is furprifing to find the emperor Frederick I. Frederick L 
 after the obftinate refufal of the princes and great men attending him, ';°f^'' '^^ 
 ftooping, in conformity to this old cuftom, to the indignity of holding 
 pope Adrian the fourth's ftirrup. Before the emperor could be brought 
 to fuch an abafement, the pope fufFered him to kifs his foot j but re- 
 fufed him the ojculum pads, i. e. ' kifs of peace -f-.' After that time, 
 the like demands, with farther encroachments, were inferted in the 
 Roman ceremonial J as a fettled point of right; to which, however, 
 feveral fecular princes, who zealoufly adhere to the papal See, will 
 fcarce conform in this article : for the Reformation has, in many particu- 
 
 The coronation was performed on two different days, the Roman fiicceeding the Lombar- 
 cl'ian. Giucciardini and Jovius have examined the reafons of the city of Bologna being chofen 
 for this folemnity preferably to Rome. 
 
 * See AIiJIo-'s Hijiory of the Augfburg Confcjfion, p. 409. 
 
 t Vid. Aclci AdriaiiilK MS. ex Codice Vaticano ap. Baronhim torn. xU. ad ami. 1155. ♦ 
 
 H. 8. p. 403. the laft words of which run thus : Rex Fridcricus pracejjit aliquantidu?ii, (s" 
 appropinquaiite Papa tentorlo Regis, per aliam viam tranfiens defcendit, is' occurrem Rex ei, quantum 
 jaP.ns eft lap'idh, inconfpeBu exereitus officium flratonis cum jucunditate implevit ET STRE- 
 GUA'M FORTITER TENUIT. Turn wri Pontifex emdem Regnum ad pads o/culwn 
 prima recepit. ' King Frederic went a little before, and as the Pope drew near to the kind's 
 ' pavilion, his majefly paffing another way, alighted; and running up to him about a ftone's 
 ' throw, before the whole army with pleafure perfor?ned the office of a groom, AND 
 <■ HELD THE STIRRUP TIGHT. Then it was thatthe Pope fiifl admitted 
 ' the faid king to the kifs of peace.' 
 
 X Ceremoniale Rom. lib. i. /. 3. c. 3. ^ando Papa per fcalam afcendit equum, major Priii- 
 ceps, qui prajens adej}, etiamft Rex effit aut Imperator, Stapham cqui Papalis tcncre debet, i3' 
 deinde ducere equum per frenum aliquantum, &c. ' When the Pope mounts his horfe, the 
 ' greateft prince who is prefent, though he be a king or emperor, ought to hold his 
 ' ftirrup, and after tliat, to lead the horfe a little way by the bridle, isc' 
 
 N 2 lars,
 
 92 BOLOGNA, 
 
 I.ir?, opened the eyes of the i?(?w^«-Cathol!C laity. We are told, in 
 Maitheiv, ch. xx. v. 26. ' That whofoever will be the greateft among 
 ' Chrift's dilciples, fhall be the fervant or minifter of the reft,' And pro- 
 bably the Popes had an eye to this text, when they aflumed the appel- 
 lation oi fervi fervonmi, or xht fervants of fer'vants*. Never was any 
 yoke fo galHng as that which thefe fervants have laid on the necks of 
 their feilow-fervants, being watchful to feize every opportunity of in- 
 creafing their wealth and power. Frcvtextu co;li capfant terras. * While 
 ' they feem intent on heaven only, they endeavour to engrofs the whole 
 ' earth.' 
 "Manwial t^f a An infcfiption is to be feen on the front of this papal palace, giving 
 "lec'oV' ^'^ account of the peftilence with which this place was fo vifited, that 
 within the city twenty-three thoufand four hundred and eighty-eight 
 perfons died of it; and in the diftridt belonging to it, eighteen thoufand. 
 The cefTation of it is folely afcribed to the omnipotence of the virgin 
 Marv, and this infcription was put up in memory of that deliverance. 
 
 Among the apartments Ihewn to ftrangers, there is one called il Sa-' 
 lone d'Ercole, where is to be k^n a noble ftatue of Hercules, of an un- 
 common fize ; it is of terra cotta, and by the fkilful hand of Lombardi. 
 Life and im- jp, another little faloon is reprefented in /rf/?(? the moft confiderable at- 
 ^w He'nci chievements of the Bologneje, infcribed with Latin verfcs, in which the 
 vidlory over He?ici king of Sardinia is not forgotten ; and under the tri- 
 umphal proceffion are thefe words : 
 
 Felfina Sardifiue Regem fibi vincla minantem 
 ViBrix captivum Confide ovante trahit. 
 
 Ncc patris impcrio cedit, 7icc fieStitur aiiro, 
 Sed piitat hoc magnum, detimiijfe, drcus. 
 
 Excitat aiiguftam regalis carceris aulam. 
 Sic nojlri vidlis conjulucrc Patres. 
 
 ' Viflorlous Bohgna, amidft the pomp of a triumph, fees the king of 
 ' Sardinia, who had threatened to enflave it, dragged as a captive ; and 
 ' difdaining the offers, and fearlefs of the power of his father, detained 
 ' him prifoner, but in a grand palace built for that purpofe. Such is 
 ' the treatment our anceftors gave their prifoners of war.' 
 
 * Pope Gregory the Great was the firft who, by afluniing this hypocritical title, fet the 
 example to his fucceflbrs. 'Johannes yejunator, formerly patriarch of Conjlantinotle, alTumed 
 to himfelf the name cf iiniverfal bifhop ; this arrogancy the artful pope Gregory wanted to 
 difcredit by his pretended humility. Baronius, in vciy pompous terms, extols this con- 
 defcenfion ; and obferves, that the bifhops of Rome exhibit a very f^riking refcmblance of 
 Chrift's humiliation. It is a great pity that the Popes fhcwed this appearance of humility in 
 name only; and that Boniface 111. has iincc, out cf the fame ambition with the patriarch, af- 
 fuoied the title oiumvct'jhl bijhop. 
 
 The
 
 BOLOGNA. 93 
 
 The firft three lines are written in black, with the letter A^ near them. 
 The three following are in red, and on one fide of them PM. 
 
 Henci was a natural fon of the emperor * Frederick II. who oppofing -^"""J 'f 
 the Pope's grant of the iiland of Sardinia to the PifanSt fent his fon, 
 who was married to Adela, a Sardinian princefs, with an army, which 
 at firft gained great advantages over the Pope 2iV\d Pijdns ; and after- 
 wards, with the like fuccefs, afiifted the Mode}ielc. It is commonly re- 
 ported here, and the Bononian Hijioriograpbcrs alfo relate, that Frede- 
 rick II. offered for his fon's ranfom a gold-ring as large as the circum- 
 ference of the city. Probably feme equivocation was apprehended in the 
 offer, as the thicknefs of the ring was not fpecified ; and conlequently it 
 might have proved only a piece of gold-wire of fuch a length as to in- 
 clofe the city. The long imprifonment of Henci might alfo be owing to 
 the death of the emperor, which happened foon after, -ciz. in 1250; 
 this unfortunate prince being forgot amongfl: the difturbances of the in- 
 terregnum. So far is certain, that he remained a prifoner at Bologna 
 from the year 1249 till his death, which happened in 1 272. To fay that this 
 palace, at prefent the refidence of the legate and other great officers, 
 was built merely for the reception of that captive prince, is an idle piece 
 of oftentation, the fallity of which appears at firfl; ffght, as fuch a vaft 
 edifice would require more years in building than a prifoner could naturally 
 be expe(fled to remain among them. BefideSj&^ow, in \\\sHiftoria Bofioni- 
 enfis, lib. iv. p. 78. and lib. vi. p. 115. fays, that one of the public palaces,^ 
 called /"/ Palazzo vecchio del Commune, or del Podejia, was begun in the 
 year 1200, and the other diftinguiffied by the name of Palazzo Maggiorg 
 in the year 1245. Now the latter is the palace in queftion, and, as ap- 
 pears by this date, was built before Henci was taken prifoner. However, 
 Malefpini does the Bologneje great injuftice, by faying, in cap. cxi. p. 97. 
 that they locked up this prince in an iron cage, and confined him in it 
 as long as he lived. 
 
 Over the Salone d'Ercole is the Sala Farnefe, fo called from a marble Sala Famefe. 
 flatue of pope Paul III. who was of the Far?jefe family. The cieling 
 and walls of this apartment were painted by the beft mafters in Bologna^ 
 at the expence of cardinal Farnefe. Among others, Emilio Taruffi, and 
 Carlo Cignani have united their fkill in a piece, reprefenting Francis I. 
 king of France touching for the evil at Bologna, in the prefence of pope 
 Leo X. by virtue of the miraculous power of healing aff'umed by his 
 predecefibrs the kings of Fr/?;/^^. As to anyone miracle peformed by 
 Leo X. hiftorians are entirely filent : and theProteftants poffibly exceed the 
 
 •* Fid. Continual or Martini Polom, p; 1417. Riccobaldus Ferrarienfii in Hijhria Imperator. 
 ^.1174. 
 
 truthj
 
 ihe Sala Far 
 nefe 
 
 ^4. BOLOGNA. 
 
 Su/fUioiis «'.- truth, in aflerting that he was an Atheift *. However, Jovitis, a zeal- 
 anihig LeoX. ^^^ popifli hiftoiian, hi his Li/e of Lto X. acknowledges this Pope to 
 have been fufpeded of being given to unnatural lufts, and makes no fe- 
 cret of his fcnlliality and voluptuoufnefs ; to which vices other authors +, 
 of unfuipeded veracity, add his exceflive love of hunting, fowling, mu- 
 fic, fpeftacles, and feailing. That he chiefly delighted in the frivolous 
 mirth of fycophants, buffoons, and jefters, is affirmed by Mnttkicu's Hi]}, 
 de Henry IF. lib. \n. t.i\. p.jib. And on the contrary, the little efteem 
 he had for divines, and his preference of poetry, mythology, and other 
 profane fciences to thofe of his profeffion, appears even from Pal/avicini's 
 Hijhry of the Ccwicil of T^rejit. With fiich difpofitions it may well be 
 fuppoled, that Leo X. when he law Francis I. a libertine young king, 
 affume to himfelf a power of working miracles, thought, as Cato the 
 Cenfor did of the Arnjpices, (which he is faid indeed not to have concealed) 
 ' That one could not look upon the other without laughing :]:.' 
 Other fine Another fine piece of painting in the Sala Farnefe reprefents the public 
 
 .fmnthigs in entry oi Paul III. into Bologna. The aqueducl by which cardinal Al- 
 borno has immortalized his name in this city, is reprefented in this piece 
 by a plan of it laid before him. The coronation of Charles V. is by 
 Luigi Scaramuccia di Feriifa. Laftly, among the remarkable tranf- 
 aftions of the republic is alfo clalled the acquilition of a portrait of the 
 -virgin Mary, faid to be painted by St. Luke. 
 The Aldio- The Aldrovamii mufeum, which is kept in this place with fuch care, 
 vandi mufeur:. ^^^^^ j^ jg ^^^^^ opened but in the prefence of a fenator, conlifts, among 
 other curiofities, of a hundred and eighty-feven folios, and above two 
 
 * The great confidence which our forefathers repofed in this Pope inclines us Germans 
 to a tendernefs for his character ; and it muit be owned he was not without fome eminent 
 qualities : but they extremely deviated from German fmcerity, or had too good an opinion 
 of him, when at the renewal of the concordat, nat. German, they termed him a zealous pa- 
 tron of religion, and a fhining example of fandtltv. It is alledged, in extenuation of his 
 irregularities, that he was very early exalted to the papal fee. Luther, who in this Pope's time 
 reflcred the truths of the gofpel to their primitive purity, proftrates himfelf before him with 
 the rnofl implicit \eneration. torn. I. epijl. p. ji. an. 1518. ^lare, BeatiJJlme Pater, prt- 
 Jiratum me pedibus iue beatitudinis offero cum omnibus., qua fum y habeo; vivifies, occide, voca, 
 rci'oca, adproba, reproba ui placuerit, vocem tuam ChrtjU voccm in te prafidentis (jf loquentis 
 agnofcam. Si mortem merui, morl non recufabo. ' Wherefore, moft holy father, I proftrate 
 ' myfelf at thy facred feet, offering myfelf and all that I have: come life, come death, 
 
 * call me, rejecSl me, approve me, condemn me, as it feemeth good to thee. In thy voice 
 
 * I hear that of Chriii fpeaking throua;h thee his vicegerent. If thou thinlceft I deferve 
 ' death, I fliall willingly fubmit.' And Z.i'» himfelf does Z«/A<t the juftice to fay : Cfe/ra 
 Mnriino Luthero haveva tm bellijfimo ingegno, e che cotefte erano invidie fraiefihe. ' Brother 
 ' Martin Luther is a perfon of an extraordinary genius, and thefe are only monaftic 
 ' bickerings.' 
 
 t Gmipl.rius in vita p. 396. Ciacon. in vit. p. 327. Natalis Alex. tom. VIII. p. 34. 
 X Cicero lib. ii. de Divinat. Cato mirari fe ajebat, quod non riderct arufpex arufpicem cum vi- 
 dipt. 
 
 hundred
 
 BOLOGNA. 95 
 
 hundred bags full of fingle leaves, all written by the hand of that inde- 
 fatigable perlbn. Here is alfo (hewn the portait of a woman, with a j.^r./f^^t'o- 
 beard as long as that oi ■a capuchin monk, whom Aldrovnudi aiTirms to have ">"■"• 
 ieen. This coUedlion has been enriched with the cabinet of the rnarquis 
 Cofpi^ which contains a great number of valuable medals, as may be 
 {(itw in the printed catalogue of them. On the flairs, and over the 
 doors of the apartments, are the buflo's of feveral Popes, as Urban VJIL. 
 Innocent X. ^c. 
 
 The military ftores and artillery, with arms for fix thousand men, are Arfenal. 
 alfo kept in this place. The phyfic-garden in the court of it is very phj/ic-garJen-,. 
 fmall, and has nothing remarkable in it. The area before the palace is 
 three hundred and feventy feet long, and three hundred broad. The 
 fountain in this area, together with the leaden pipes, &c. are faid to have fountain. 
 coft feventy thoufand fcudi d'Oro, or golden crowns ; and it is indeed a 
 very noble ornament to it. The brafs ftatues eredfed here are by Gio- 
 •vanni di Bologna; the others are hy Anionic Lupi ; but the difpofition of 
 the whole work was left to Lauretti. The ftatue of Neptune on the top 
 is eleven feet high. Within the bafon are a great number of dolphins 
 ejefting water, and four women with three ftreams ifTuing out at each 
 breafi:. The only exception to this fuperb work is, that the jetteaus are 
 not proportional to the fize of the figures. 
 
 The mint affords nothing remarkable. The ballancer or prefs ufed Minr.. 
 for coining, moves like the pendulum of a clock, and in a minute 
 ftamps fifteen or fixteen pieces. The privilege of coining was firfl con- 
 ferred on this city in the year 1291, by the emperor Henry V. and on 
 the large pieces coined here is the following legend alluding to the uni- 
 verfity of Bologna, which formerly was in fuch reputation : Bononia 
 docet. And on the fmaller pieces, the important word Lihertas; but both 
 at prefent are ufed with little propriety. 
 
 A connoifleur in painting will meet with a great deal of entertainment 
 in the private palaces of this city. 
 
 In the Palazzo Bonfiglioli, befides feveral beautiful pieces by the Ca- Pai,:ii„gs /« 
 racci's, are about fifty drawings by the moft celebrated mafters; among Contiglioli 
 which are thtMaJJacre of the Imiocents, by Raphael ; Veturia and Coriolanus, t"''^''-- 
 by Baptifta Franco^ * &c. All thefe pieces are elegantly framed and 
 glazed with ground glafs, which not only preferves them from the duft 
 and the fingers of the beholders, but gives no litde addition to their beauty. 
 
 The ^alazzo dc Campeggi is built with free-fi:one of a diamond cut, and Campe<jei; 
 was once the refidenceof the emperor Charles V. Here alfo, in the time/.«/ja-.° 
 of 'Julius III. and Baul III. the bifhops and prelates appointed to afiift 
 
 * Livy, lib. ii. c. 40. calls Coriolanus's mother Veturia, and his wife Volumnia, which 
 uames are ufed vice vcrj'd in Plutarch ; but Aurelius Fi£ior, de viris illujlribus, follows Livy. 
 
 at:
 
 96 
 
 Bentivoglio 
 palace. 
 
 Caprara pa- 
 {ace. 
 
 'Rich families 
 in Bologna. 
 
 Paintings by 
 the Caracci 
 ill the Favi 
 palace. 
 
 BOLOGNA, 
 
 at the council of Trent, held their meetings in the year 1 547, when the 
 unheahhfuhiefs of the air had obliged them to leave 'Trc?2t. In the gar- 
 den is a lion of white marble, formerly ereded at Ravenna by the Vene- 
 tians ; but when that city fell under the papal yoke, it was brought 
 hither. 
 
 The fpacious fuperb palace, which formerly the izmAy oi xhtBentivogli 
 had in Bologna, was, upon their expuUion out of the city in the year 
 1 507, totally demollHied and razed : however, they have fince built a 
 very fine houfe in another part of the city. 
 
 But the palace wliich moft gratifies a taveller's curlofity is that of Ca- 
 prara, where he cannot but admire the double ftair-cafe, the large 
 looking-glalTes (which are feldom feen in the Italian palaces, and what 
 they have are generally but very mean) the tapertry hangings, and the 
 richnefs of the other furniture. Here are particularly a great many fmall 
 coffers of admirable Florentine-work ; one of raifed mother-of-pearl, an- 
 other with fix large, and as many fmall, pillars of rock-cryftal ; feveral 
 curious works in ivory and wood, and general Caprara's brafs ftatue on a 
 pedeftal of red porphyry, fupported by a T^ur^. At the corners of a fplen- 
 did gallery are clofets filled with fliells and other marine produdlions ; 
 but both the fides of it are taken up with four large tables, covered with 
 Turki/lj utenfils, belts, money, furniture, &c. count Tekeli and prince 
 Ragozzi's cabinets ; two fwords fet with diamonds, prefented to general 
 Caprara, one by the emperor Leopold, and the other by Augujlus king 
 of Poland; the golden-fleece, and feveral other curiofities within 
 glafs-cafes, and little brafs fiatues on the top of them. The walls are 
 hung with Turkifo arms in the form of trophies. In this gallery are 
 likewife fome fine paintings j among which is the death of Braugandini, 
 who was flead by the Turks, painted on wood. Here are alfo two beau- 
 tiful tables of i'7i3ri'«//w-work, and feveral large filver vafes. The 1 aft 
 male heir of the Caprara family died in the year 1724; and his daugh- 
 ter, on her marriage with a gentleman of the name of Montccuciili, in- 
 fifted, that he fhould take upon him the name of Caprara; which he 
 agreed to, rather than lofe her fortune of eighty thoufand y2'z/^/ a year: 
 however, the Caprara family is not the richeft in Bologna ; for thofe of 
 Magnani, Pepoli, and Ranucci are pofi'efiTed of a hundred thoufandyirW/ 
 or crowns fterling a year. 
 
 On the cieling o{ ^ faloon oi th^ palazzo de" Favi are the adventures of 
 Jafon in eighteen pieces painted \nfrefco by the two brothers Auguflino 
 and Annibal Caracci, under the infpedtion of their uncle Luigi. In an- 
 other apartment are painted on the frize twelve pafTages of the JEneid 
 painted in frefio by Luigi Caracci, copper-plates of which are to be 
 had at RoJJi\ in Rome for two fcudi, under the following title : Galleria 
 
 5 dipinta
 
 B L G N A. 9* 
 
 tiipinta in Bologna in caja dc Signori Fwci, colle favole di tima^ Jecondo la 
 defcrizionc di l^ergilio, colorite da tutti trc i Caracci, Annibalc, Agojlino e 
 Liidovico, int agitata in acqua forte da Gnijcppc Maria M/tclli, lihro in 
 XVII. fogli reali per traverjo. The reft of the zdwtniuvas oi /lineas '^'^^''' t''^"''-'' 
 are painted in ten pieces by Albani, under the direditni of Liiigi Ca~ 
 racci, and his other difciples have finifhed the remainder \ but the lat- 
 ter are in a different apartment, and under every pidiire is a Latin verfe 
 out of the Mneid^ explaining the fubjed:. On the frize of one apart- 
 ment are feverai landscapes xnjrefco^ by the cavaliere Creti; by whom are 
 two other pieces, reprefcnting painting and mufic by two women. Se- 
 veral other fine pieces of painting are likewife to be feen in this palace, 
 and particularly fome very delicate drawings with a pen. 
 
 On a wall mtht Palazz-o de Legtiani ^vq fome imperfe<5l remains of ^"''•'''':?' '" 
 a piece of painting in praife of pope y/z/Z/^j III. by Nicoh del Abbate.{"^^'[il[^'^^' 
 Under the papal crown are thefe words : hmocentes manibus & ?nundi 
 corde. A motto little applicable to Julius III. 
 
 The Palazzo Magrtani is finely furnillied ) but the moft remarkable Magnani/w- 
 thing here, is the \\\{{ory oi Ronmhis, painted in frejco by the three Ca- "'''■ 
 racci's. Count Carlo Cefare Maha/ia, in the third part of his Feljina 
 Pittrice, and other connoifleurs give the preference to the piece repre- 
 senting Ronndus's vidtory over Numitor's fliepherds, which was done by 
 Atigiijlifio Caracci ; but it is a great difadvantage to all thefe maflerpieces, 
 that the beauty of the colouring is faded, and on that account they are 
 not beheld witn the fame pleafure and admiration as the noble works of 
 thofe artifts in the Farnefian palace at Rome. 
 
 In the Marcfcotti palace are feverai tine pieces of painting, and a very Palazzo Ma- 
 fuperb double ftair-cafe. 
 
 The Palazzo de Molari exhibits a good colledion of paintings j but is L^'r^:° ''*^' 
 chiefly remarkable for a meridian-line drawn bv Dr. Moutanari. 
 
 The Palazzo de' Monti (liews the genius of the Itaiian nobility fo'r Palazzo de' 
 decorating their palaces with colleftions of paintings and other curiofi- //°""^ „f the 
 ties ; who often abridge themfelves of a great many of the conveniences Italian ?«//- 
 of life, in order to be poffeffed of Ibmething which attracts the admira- ''""^'" 
 tion of other people, and efpecially of foreigners. The firft lioor of this 
 grand edifice, confifting of above thirty apartments, which are by far 
 the beft, is never, or at leaft very feldom, inhabited, and then only for 
 the reception of fome perfon of diftinftion ; the general ufe of them be- 
 ing only to difplay an amazing collection of paintings and other curiofi- 
 ties. Befides the great number of pieces hy Albani andthe Gzr^m'^, here 
 is a gallery painted by young Cignani ; together with a very large piece of 
 painting reprefenting the raifing of the fiege of 'Turin, by Antonio Caja. 
 In another apartment is to be feen a woman afleep, with a wanton boy 
 
 Vol. Ilh O laughing,
 
 98 BOLOGNA. 
 
 laughing, whilft he lets down a moufe hanging by a thread upon her 
 bread:. In this piece the expreflion is very ftrong, and the moufe is ad- 
 mirably done. This palace is well furniftied, and the apartments are 
 lofty and magnificent. The Bolognefe family of Monti claims kindred 
 with pope "yuiiiis I'll, who was a Florentine. 
 Pilazzi di The Falazzo di Pepoli is a fine edifice, and is remarkable for its fuperb 
 
 Pepoh. ftair-cafe, fpacious hall, fine tapeftry and other rich furniture. Here 
 
 is to be feen a filver triumphal car, with two ladies fitting in it, which 
 moves by clock-work about the room, as if it was drawn by two lions. 
 The beft paintings in this palace are the cieling-pieces. 
 Palazzo Ra- The palace of Ranucci is likewife built in a grand tafte, with a noble 
 nucci. ftair-cafe, and fpacious lofty rooms. Here is fome beautiful tapeftry made 
 
 at the Gobelins, and feveral clofets full of Florentine-work, filver vafes, 
 and other furniture ; particularly a clock of raifed inlaid work of gems on 
 a ground of lapis lazuli. The height of the chapel takes up three ftories of 
 Paintings. the houfe. Among the paintings in this palace are,a fine piece of perfpec- 
 tive, by Agoftino Mitelli ; St. Jerom, and Jofeph flying from Potiphar'% 
 wife, hy Gui do ; the fall of Haman, hy Antonio Gionima (a new piece, 
 where the beautiful figure of EJlher is particularly admired ;) and the 
 portraits of the great dukes of the Medicis family. In the upper faloon is 
 an indifferent piece of the Reception of the king of Denmark at this 
 palace, with thefe words under it : 
 
 Fridericus IF. Danice, Norvegia, 
 Gothia ac Vandalice Rex, 
 Ranutice Domus bis hofpes 
 MDCCIX. 
 
 ' In this palace of Ranucci, Frederick IV. king of Denmark, Norway, 
 • the Goths and Fa?idals, was twice entertained in the year 1709.' 
 
 Facing it is a piece reprefenting the coronation of the emperor CharlesY. 
 
 as performed by the Pope at Bologna in the year 1530. 
 r/f Ranucci The family o^ Ranucci have alfo a charming villa, of which, toge- 
 %ii.'a. ther with the Dominican Convent, one has a fine view from the Monte 
 
 della Guardia. 
 Sampieri/a- ■ In the Palazzo San?pieri are feveral pieces, by the three Caracci's; and 
 ^"/f- ,, one of the befl; that was ever done by y^/(^««/, reprefentine 0^/"/^ kiffine 
 fUture by h\- his mother A^^w/5, and, with an air or triumph, as it were to ihcw his 
 bi.ai. power, pointing at the rape of Froferpine by Fluto : and near him is a 
 
 groupe of Iportlve loves joining in a dance. 
 
 Not
 
 BOLOGNA, 9g 
 
 Not far from the church of Madonna di Galiera, Gieronimo Trevifam Palazzo dj 
 has painted in chiaro ofciiro, on the outfide of the wall of the PaiazzoY^^^l'. hd- 
 di Volta, feveral remarkable tranfadions of the Roman commonwealth ; Volu >«%. 
 but it is almoft defaced by length of time. In the apartments are to be '^_>"gf'>i'^'d 
 feen the works of Mitelli, and feveral other painters. Befides another '^'^''^''• 
 palace in this city, the family of the Volta have a feat at Cafaralta, where 
 the following enigmatical epitaph, on which fo many oi rht literati have 
 already exercifed their wits, is to be feen : 
 
 D. M. 
 
 JElia Lalia Crifpis 
 
 Nee Vir, nee Mulier, nee Androgyna^ 
 
 Nee Puella, nee Juvenis, nee Anus, 
 
 Nee Cajia, nee Meretrix, nee Pudica, 
 
 ■ Sed omnia, 
 
 Sublata 
 
 Neque Fame, neqiie Ferro, neque Veneno, 
 
 Sed omnibus. 
 
 Nee Ciielo, nee Aquis, nee Terris, 
 
 Sed Ubique jaeet. 
 
 LVCIVS AGATH'O PRISCIFS 
 
 Nee Maritus, nee Amator, nee Ncceffarius 
 
 Neque Mcerens, neque Gaudens, neque Flens 
 
 Hane 
 
 Nee Molem, nee Pyramidem, nee Sepukhrum, 
 
 Sed omnia 
 
 Scit ^ Nejcit Cui Pojuerit. 
 
 ' Sacred to the Manes of 
 * Mlia Lalia Crijpis, who was neither male, female, nor hermo- 
 ' phrodite ; neither a girl, a youth, nor an old woman ; neither chafte, 
 ' a whore, nor a modeft woman ; but was all thefe. She died neither 
 
 • by famine, fword, nor poifon ; but by all three. She lies neither in 
 
 * the air, nor in the waters, nor in the earth ; but every where. Lu- 
 ' cius Agatho Prifeius, who was neither her huthand, nor gallant, nor re- 
 ' lation ; neither weeping, rejoicing, nor mourning, ereded this, which 
 ' is neither a fabric, a pyramid, nor a tomb, but all three; but to whom, 
 ' he knows, and yet knoweth not.' 
 
 Under this enigma are the following words : 
 
 O 2 Mnigma
 
 ICO BOLOGNA 
 
 /Enigma 
 Sluod pcperit glorice 
 
 Aiitirf/itas, 
 
 Ne periret inglortum 
 
 Ex antiqualo marmore 
 
 Hie in novo repara-oit 
 
 Achilles Volta Senator. 
 
 ' That this ^Enigma, the invention of ingenious antiquity, might not 
 ' be loft by the decay of the ancient marble on which it was firft en- 
 ' graven, it ftands here cut in frefli characters, by order of Achilla 
 ' Folta^ a fenator.' 
 
 Explanations On the four fides of the fame ftone are twelve different explanations of 
 *-''"'• this epitaph, with the names of their fagacious authors. Mario Michael 
 
 Angela will have it to be Rain ; Fcrtiaiiiis Licetus^ the beginning and end- 
 ing of Friendihip ; John Cajper Gevartius interprets it to be Love ; Zachary 
 Pontinus fays it was defigned for the remains of three different perfons ; 
 Johannes Turriiis is of opinion that it is the Materia prima ; Nicholas Bar- 
 naiid, that it is an Eunuch, or the philofopher's ftone ; Agathias Schola/licus 
 (if that was his name) affirms it to be Niobe; Richardus Vitus will have 
 it to be the rational Soul, or the Idea Platonis, and Ovidius Montalbanus, 
 Hemp. Count Malvajia, in a particular treatife entitled Mlia Lalia 
 Crifpis non nata rejurgens, interprets it of a daughter promifed to a perfon 
 in marriage, who died pregnant with a male child before the celebra- 
 tion of her nuptials *. 
 
 Befides thefe learned perfons, M. deCigognelngrattde has difcovered pope 
 "Joan in it ; the celebrated Boxhorn -|- fays it is Shadow ; and a ludicrous hand 
 
 has 
 
 * Whether this be our author's meaning, I cannot fay, it being fomething obfcure in 
 this palTagc ; but it is fomething applicable to the aenigma, though I know not whether 
 it be agreeable to Alahafiai interpretation, having never feen it. 
 
 + I;i the AP.a Eriulitoriim Lipficnf. menf. Mart. ami. 1732. is an anonymous letter, in 
 which the author interprets this riddle of a monument eredled by one of the /Elian family 
 to his own Soul, where he puts the letters A. AI. P. P. D. at the beginning of the epitaph, 
 iJenoting Anima Mas PropriiS Dico. This interpretation he fupports as grounded on the old 
 infciiption; but adduces no proof. Not to mention that thofe letters are not on the Bo- 
 J'^'gria epitaph, but only on an old copy alMilan, fuppofed by Alalvafia to be fpurious ; and to 
 the end of which is tacked the following addition, not to be found in the epitaph of 
 
 Bologna : 
 
 Moc cji fepulcrwn intus cadaver non habensy 
 
 Hoc f/l cadaver fepulchrum extra non habenSy 
 
 Sed cad^ivcr idem ejl U fepukhrumfibi. 
 
 Here
 
 B L G NA, loi 
 
 has taken the hberty to fcratch on the ftonc under the above-mentioned 
 
 illuftrations Vn Petto, or a F — /. The original epitaph is laid to have 
 
 been broken to pieces in the lart: century, and the fragments were made 
 
 life of in laying the foundation of this houfe ; and what feems not a 
 
 little furprifing, all the explanations hitherto given of this infcription 
 
 have their difficulties. And though Mahaftas has the moll probability 
 
 on its fide ; yet the particulars are grounded on (o many hiftorical cir- 
 
 circumftances, that an ingenious pen would not be much at a lofs to 
 
 cook up a romance out of them. Give me leave to fubjoin another Wnoiher ^,„>, 
 
 enigmatical infcription, though it be fomething fatirical, made on a wo- "!" "f''"" 
 
 man at BafiU who lived fifteen years in the matrimonial ftate with an"^'""" ''""^' 
 
 eunuch : 
 
 Palladice Veneris, vel Venerice Palladis 
 
 Thalamum Sepidchro jimUcm cernis. 
 
 Vbi Virgo fimul 6? Matrona, Nupta & Inmipta, 
 
 Nee Sterilis, 7iec fceciinda : ?iec Uxor, ficc Pelkx : 
 
 Conjux fine conjuge : Ca^lebs fine ccelibatu. 
 
 Annos qimidecim, fine querela^ 
 
 Cum Viro jacuit jemiviro. 
 
 Mirante naturd, tamdiu pottiijfe fceminam 
 
 Sicjacere, vel tacere *. 
 
 * Behold a marriage-bed, or rather a grave, of a lady endowed with 
 ' the beauty of Venus, joined with the prudence of a Pallas; who was at 
 ' once a virgin and a matron, married and unmarried; neither barren 
 
 * nor prolific, neither wife nor concubine; a wife without a hulband; 
 
 * fingle, and yet not in a ftate of celibacy. Here flie lay fifteen years 
 
 * without any complaints, with a man who was but half a man, while 
 
 * nature itfelf admired that a woman could lie or be filent for fo long a 
 
 * time under fuch circumftances.' 
 
 I fliall not take upon me to decide, whether the filence of the above- 
 mentioned Pallas be more wonderful than her patience ; or than the ig- 
 norance of another wife, who lived fome years with an impotent huf- 
 band, without being fenfible of his deficiency; for llie imagined that 
 the refl of the world had no further commerce together than flie and her 
 
 ' Here is a fepulchre without a corps ; here is a corps without a fepukhre : the corps 
 
 * and fepulchre are one.' 
 
 [A correfpondent of the Mercure de France will have this epitaph to be defigned for Lot's 
 wife.] 
 • Vid. Comes Emanuel Tbcfaurus, in Idea argut<s tf ingeniofa dliiionh, p. 455. 
 
 hufband.
 
 102 BOLOGNA. 
 
 hufband. HUarion de Cojic, in his Eloges des Dames illuftres, torn. I. 
 p. 697, relates this ftory of Ifabella di Gonzagua, the wife of Guido Ubaldi 
 duke oi'Urbifw, who died in 1508: but now, fince women are better 
 acquainted with the fecrets of nature, their knowledge renders them lefs 
 patient under fuch difappointments. To what a degree of immodefty 
 not a few are arrived, appears from their proceffes for divorces ex capite 
 impot entice. 
 Voiiugardcn. xhe Giard'ino de Po'e'ti at Bohgfia, fo extolled by fome travellers, is in 
 reality but meanly laid out. It derives its name from the family of the 
 Poeti, to which it belongs. 
 Grotto cut of A little without the Po}-ta S. Mamala is a paffage through a garden 
 ti>e Porta s. jj^jQ ^ grotto, in which is a ftatue of Venus, fome fliell-work on the 
 walls, and feveral fmall bafons filled with water for baths. This work 
 generally pafles for a bathing-place of the ancient Roman emperors -, but 
 I am of opinion, that the chief defign of this work was to find out a 
 good fpring of water : for many pafTages are hewn in the rock, in which 
 are feveral fprings, at lail meeting in a deep refervoir ; and from thence the 
 Aiuiika. water is conveyed by an aqueduct, which is to be feen behind the church 
 dell' Annonz.iata to the large fountain in the area before i\\t Palazzo Publico. 
 The lapidious concretions that hang on the bricks with which the 
 above-mentioned fubterraneous pafTages are lined, perfedly refemble the 
 incruflations on the pillars in the Pifcina Mirabilis at Baia, and are fo 
 hard and tenacious, as not to be feparated without damaging the brick- 
 work. In fome places thefe flrong concretions are of fuch a thicknefs, 
 that an altar has lately been made of them at Bologna. 
 St Aenes. I come now to the ecclefiaflical edifices zt Bologna, and (lial! begin with 
 
 St. Agnes's church, which belongs to the Dominican nuns. This church 
 Fine fainting, is finely gilt and painted ; among the latter the martyrdom of St. Agnes 
 
 over the high altar is one of Domenichino's beft: pieces. 
 
 5/. Antonv. I" St. Antony\ church, over the great altar, is an admirable piece, by 
 
 Luigi Caracci, reprefenting the preaching of the primitive hermits. On 
 
 another altar is a picture of the virgin Mary with her divine infant, with 
 
 a groupe of angels hovering over her ; St. Francis and St. Carlo in a de- 
 
 Mfurdrepre- yout pofture, ^c. \xi the oratory or fmall chapel near this church is a 
 
 ///a'gIS '^ "^°^ beautiful piece, reprefenting the Annunciation, by 'Tiarini; but 
 
 with this prelumptuous abfurdity, viz. God the father is reprefented 
 
 above, in heaven, holding a dove in both his hands, jufl as if he was 
 
 going to let it fiy. The convent near this church is called Col- 
 
 Montako ccl- legio di Montalto ; for it was converted by pope Sixtiis V. from an hof- 
 
 h^- pital into a convent. Here is a good library, which is prettily painted 
 
 Miraadous '\x\ jrcfco, by GeJJi. On the wall without the college is a miraculous 
 
 ii/mgeo/st. iiijage of St. Antofix, before which a perjured man being once brought, 
 
 Antony. ^ - ^ - ^ ^jj
 
 B L G N A. . 103 
 
 all his flefli, as the fable goes, was inflar.tly reduced to aHjCS, and fell 
 off his bones. On the feftival of that faint thofc afhes and bones are 
 publicly expofed to the devotion of the credulous people. 
 
 Before St. Bartholomews church ftands a marble ftatue of St. Petroniiis, ^'"'"^ "f^'- 
 by Brunelli. This church is divided into three illes, and that in the ^'s^'iZtLlo. 
 middle is of a remarkable height. All the three make a fine appearance, mow'j chnnh. 
 and are exxellently painted, particularly that on the fouth-fide. yln^elo 
 Michael Colonna, as is mentioned in an infcription, from a motive'^ of 
 devotion, performed this grand piece, and fome others, without any 
 reward. The high altar is of beautiful marble, with fome figures in- 
 laid. An Annunciation, hy Albani to be feen here, is accounted an in- 
 comparable piece ; and indeed nothing can furpafs the exprelllon of the 
 Virgin's admiration ; though, in my opinion, it is not accompanied with 
 that humility, and, as it were, blufliing modefty, which are exprelfed in 
 fome of the befl: pieces on this fubjedt. The two other pieces, repre- 
 fenting the Nativity, and the flight to Egypt are alfo by the fame marter. 
 On the outfide of the cloyfter which faces the ftreet, and confilb of ten 
 arches, are fome fine bajj'o-relievos, by Formigini 3 with the life of St. 
 Gaetano, painted from Cignani\ defigns. 
 
 In the veftry of the Capuchitis church is a Crucifixion, by Giddo Rljeni, Amajierpme 
 which is extremely admired as a real mafler-piece. 4>G"'do. 
 
 The Certofmi, or Carthufiam, whofe convent is without the city, are ^'""' t^hthg 
 in pofleflion of that celebrated piece of Agojlino Caracci, in which fj^^' ^"'°' 
 St. Jerom is reprefented receiving the facrament at the point of death 
 and taking leave of his friends. This pidure ftands on the orcat altar • 
 and in a chapel on one fide of it is St. John preaching in the wildernefs 
 painted by Luigi Caracci, who in this piece ftrove to emulate Ago/lino Ca~ 
 racci in that mentioned above. By the fame mafter is alfo the Scourging of 
 Chrift. Here is alfo a capital piece, reprefenting the Baptifm of Chrift,%y 
 Elizabeth Sirani ; and the feaft vAitxzMary Magdalene anoints our Saviour's 
 feet, by her father Giov. Antonio Sirani. St. Bruno kneelino- before the 
 holy virgin, is by Giiercino ; the Afcenfion of Chrift, by Bibieiia j the 
 Defcent from the Crofs, by GeJJi; St. Catharine of Sienna, by Tiarini ; 
 and Chrift led to the place of execution, a capital piece, is hy Ma /Jar i. 
 
 The church ad Corpus Domitii, belonging to the nuns of SCClare, Ad Corpus 
 has been newly rebuilt, and fuitably ornamented ; the roof was painted ^°"''"' 
 by Francefchino. On the right-hand, near the entrance, is a beautiful '''""''' 
 altar, adorned with red and white marble pillars. Here are alfo two 
 fine pieces by Luigi Caracci; one reprefents Chrift defcending into 
 the limbus patrum, and the other the Interment of the viro-in Marv <j * a-.- 
 The undecayed body of Catharine de Vigri, a Bclogneje, the foundrefs o(''t<"" 'he 
 this convent, who died in the year 1463, is preferved by the nuns as a "'■'^- f ,S^." 
 
 reiiqucgri.
 
 104 BO L G N A. 
 
 rellque of rmgulur value. The body is fitting in a chali-, and looks 
 like a dried mummy. As to the fragrant odour emitted by this corps, 
 that may be eftedled without any difficulty ; but that its nails and hair 
 are continually growing and often cut, is what, out of mere complaifance 
 to the fair nun?, one would not choofe to dilpute. We are indeed in- 
 formed by hiftorians, that the beard of the brave Gujiaviis Adolphiis grew 
 confiderably after he had been laid in his grave*; and this is no more 
 than can eafily be credited of a body full of blood and juices. But 
 whether this be poflible in a corpfe totally dried up, is much to be que- 
 fhoned, or rather, may be faid to be impofTible. In this convent is given to 
 devout perfons a kind of holy water, which is faid to derive particular 
 virtue by being ufed to wafh the body of St. Catharine, and likewife the 
 wool with which it is dried at thofe times. 
 
 S. Chriftina ^. ChrijUna della Fundaca belongs to a convent of nuns, and is adorned 
 
 daca """ \v\t\\ a great number of fine pieces of painting. 
 
 CatkcJral. The cathedral is dedicated to St, Peter, and exhibits a great many 
 
 monuments, among which is that of 'Taiicred, a celebrated civilian. 
 On each fide of the main entrance is a large lion, couchant, of red 
 marble, on which are placed the holy-water bafons. On the center- 
 arch, near the T'ribuna, is a marble ftatue of pope Gregory XV. who 
 was a native of Bokgfia, with an eagle on one fide of him, which was 
 the arms of the Ludovijio family, from which he was defcended. On 
 the cieling of the chapter-room is a fine piece of painting, by Luigi 
 Caracci, reprefenting St. Peter on his knees before the virgin Mary t 
 here is alfo the Annunciation, by the fame hand, which was the laft 
 piece he painted. In the choir are feveral good baffb-relie'vo's. 
 
 t)ominican The church of the Dominicans is at prefent totally altered by repairs 
 
 church. ^^^ j^g^^ ornaments begun by the late PopCj who was of that order. 
 
 St. Domi- St. Dominico, who died at Bologna in the year 1221, lies buried here in 
 
 mc s lo/.'! . 2 magnificent chapel. His monument is of white marble, adorned with 
 beautiful bafjo-rclievo's, by Michael Angela 5 and the altar, together with 
 the large candleflicks which fi:and upon it, are of filver. In the choir 
 is a beautiful inlaid work, reprefenting fcriptural hifi:ories ; and in the 
 
 * The poflibJlity of the beard, and confequently of the hah', growing on dead "bodies, 
 has been maintained by Jrijioilc, in hi/}, anim. I. iii. c. 11. who fays, ' In perfons afflicted 
 ' withfomediftempcrs, efpeciallyin confumptive perfons, the hair grows more thanordinary. 
 ' In aged perfons, and even after death it continues to grow, and is very hard like briftles!' 
 D. Joh. Chrifl. Stock in dif]'. phyj. dc cadavcrihui fanguifugis. §. 5. "Jm. 1 7 32. has fhewn the 
 poiTibllity of this from natural caufes ; but in the fame year was oppofed by M. "Joh. 
 Cbrijioph. Pohl, in diff'. dc hominihui pojl mortem fnnguijugis, in a treatil'e printed at Lcip- 
 lick. Whoever is willing to be convinced by hiitorical accounts, may read Chrijl. 
 Frid. Garmami, de miraciilii nwytuanm, I. i. ///. i, dc capillomm in cadavcribm augmcnto, §. jg. 
 
 veflrvj
 
 BOLOGNA. 105 
 
 veftry, is a very confiderable treafure of jewels and rich church furniture, 
 with the Old Teftamciit, faid to be written \iy Ezra himfeif: it is a large ^■'!'""ifi'';pt of 
 folio, inclofed within a glafs-cafe, fo that only one fide of it can be feen.'^',^/^ jlfr^ 
 Here are alfo fevcral reliques, fet in gold at the expence of the city; on 
 which account the fen ate or council keep one of the keys of this place; 
 fo that there is no feeing it without their permiffion. This is attended 
 with fo much trouble and folicitation, that I rather chofe to deprive my- 
 feif of the pleafure of taking a more exaft view of this extraordinary ma- 
 nufcript; and the rather as Montjaucon, in his Diarium Italiciim, fays, 
 that it contains only the Pentateuch, and that it is by no means of Ezra's 
 writing, though it be very ancient : for the jeivs, even at the begin- 
 ning of the fourteenth century, prefented it to this convent, as a manu- 
 icript of great antiquity. In the other veftry alfo, which ferves for the 
 ordinary ufes, are feveral fine paintings. 
 
 Henci king of Sardinia, and fon of the etnperor Frederick II. whofe 
 imprifonment has been mentioned above, lies near the choir in this 
 church. 
 
 Henci died in the year 1272, after an imprifonment of twenty-three 
 years. The Bolognefe, who imagine that they have gained immortal 
 honour by their viftory over him, and their firmnefs in detaining him 
 prifoner, have taken care to give a particular account of the whole affair 
 in the following infcription cut in marble : 
 
 Viator, qtiijquis es. Epitaph on the 
 
 Sijie gradim, & quod fir iptum eft, perlege, i^rijoned king 
 
 TJbi pcrlegeris, penjita. 
 
 Hoc is, cnjtis caiijd hoc fcriptum ejl, fieri rogat. 
 
 Orto inter Botionietfies & Mutine?ifis hello, 
 
 Ccefar Fredericus II. Rom. Imperator 
 
 Filmm HENTIVM, 
 Sardinia & Corfiicce Infiidariun Regem 
 Mutinenfibiis fii/ppetias fierre jubet, 
 iui 
 Inito apud D. Ambrqfii pontem cert ami ?2e 
 A Botwnienfibus capitur, 
 Nulldquc re, lit dimittatur, impetrat. 
 Licet Pater mi?iis, deinde precibm, & pretio 
 Deprecatorihiis uteretur. 
 Cum tantum auri pro rediinendofilio pollicerctur, 
 ^ ant urn ad mcema Bonoiiice circulo aiireo cingcnda 
 fiifjiceret. 
 Vol. III. P Sic
 
 c6 BOLOGNA. 
 
 Sic Cdptivus anms XXII. mmfa IX. dies X^l. tenelitr, 
 
 Alitiirque Regio more puhlicd Bononienfiwn impenfd. 
 
 Sic dtfunSJtis magnificentiff. ac pientiJJ. funeratus 
 
 Hie tumtdatiir. 
 
 Praterea fimulacnan hoc in perpetmim monumentum 
 
 Et hofti 6f captivo 
 
 S. P. ^ B. P. 
 
 Anno Sal. MCCLXXII. II. Id. Mart. 
 
 Hoc "volebam, ut fcires. 
 
 Abi (S Vale. 
 
 Monumentum hocce vetuftate collapfum 
 
 Senatm Bononienfis juffu 
 
 Injiauratum fuit MDLXXFI. 
 
 ' Traveller, whoe'er thou art, flop and read this infcription ; when 
 thou haft read it, confider what it contains : this is the requeft of him 
 on whofe account it was written. In a war between the Itates of Bo- 
 logna and Modena, the emperor Frederick II. ordered his fon Henci 
 king of Sardifiia and Corfica to come to the affiftance of the Modenefe ; 
 but in a battle fought near St. Ambro/e's bridge, this prince was taken 
 prifoner by the victorious Bolognefe, who would by no means fuffer him 
 to be fet at liberty, notwithftanding the threats and entreaties of his fa- 
 ther, who, finding his power difregarded, offered for his fon's ranfom as 
 much gold as would make a ring large enough to compafs the walls 
 of Bologna : however, he remained prifoner twenty-two years, nine 
 months, and lixteen days j during which time he was entertained in a 
 manner becoming his dignity at the expence of the city. When he 
 died, the Bolognefe crowned this generoiity with beffowing on him 
 a pompous funeral, and this magnificent tomb, March 13, 1272. 
 Stranger, farewel! 
 
 ' This monument being much decayed, was, by order of the fenate 
 of Bologna, repaired in the year 1 576.' 
 
 Underneath are the following words : 
 
 Senatm
 
 BOLOGNA. 107 
 
 Satatiis Bononienfn 
 Pietate ac Liberalitafe 
 OJaREG IS HE NTH 
 . ■ Et ho/lis & captivi 
 
 : ' Hie jacent. 
 
 Humance foriis memor 
 Pits manibm be7ie precare. 
 - Jnjlaurat. iterum A. D. MDCLXXXX. 
 
 ' By the humanity and generofity of the fenate of Bologna, here arc 
 
 • depofitcd the bones of king Henci, their enemy and prifoner of war. 
 ' Be mindful of the viciffitudes of human life, and pray for the repofe 
 ' of his foul. This monument was repaired a fecond time in the year 
 
 * 1690.' 
 
 In this church lies Z/Z//_g'/ G:?^^fa, the celebrated painter, and (cvtrsX Richa of tie 
 famous civilians. The Capella del Rcjario is at all times embellidied with f^f/i^elR-o- 
 a great quantity of plate, purfuant to a claufe in the will of the founder, 
 enjoining that the filver ornaments fliould never be removed upon any pre- 
 tence whatever. This treafure is guarded in the night by a man well 
 armed, and feveral large maftiffs. 
 
 In the Dowinicafi convent, to which this church belongs, are about a hun- Dommkan 
 dred and forty monks. On the walls of the refedtory are feveral infcriptions, con'vent. 
 commemorating the moft remarkable tranfad:ions of pope Pins V. An 
 anti-chamber, divided into three iiles by two rows of pillars, leads to the Library. 
 library. On each fide are ftatues and paintings In honour of the Domini- 
 can order, and popeP/V/j- V. Over the entrance of the library is an infcription, 
 fignifying that this treafure of books was compleated Dei {5? Patriarchce. 
 Dominici pccidiari Patrocinante providentia ; ' Under the patronage of the 
 ' providence of God andofSt.£)o«2/wV.' The books are very numerous, and 
 iudicioufly arranged. In the lower cloyfter of the convent is a fmall chapel, Si. Dominic'/ 
 Vaid to have been the apartment in which St.Daminic, in the year 122 1, de- ''"'■"'^'>'- 
 parted this life. In one piece of painting in this chapel an angel is reprefented piaure of an 
 going up a ladder to heaven with St. Dominic on his back; but the angel «''5'''^'^''"J''"l 
 afcends the ladder backwards, that he and St. Dominic may not turn their ^,3^^°™"'"^ 
 backs on the fpeftators. Another circumftance equally abfurd in this piece 
 is that our Saviour and the virgin Mary are reprefented landing above, 
 holding the ladder. In the paflagc leading to the church lies the cele-T'fw^ c/Soci- 
 brated civilian ^Wwf^, who, in his epitaph, is czW^A Zczifius. On a""^""'"^'" 
 green plot behind this convent is fliewn an old cyprefs-tree, faid to have c'pref planted 
 been planted by ^X.. Doininic, and confequently not lefs valued than the ^l" •^'- i^oi^u 
 orange-tree in the Dominican convent at Fondi, affirmed to have been ""^" 
 planted by Thomas Aqtiinau On the area before the Dominican church 
 
 P 2 the
 
 ioB B L G N A. 
 
 the brafs images of the Virgin and St. Dominic are ereded on two pil- 
 lars. Betwixt thefe ftatues is a large ftone tomb, fupported by nine pil- 
 lars, and adorned with ba[fo-rclievos reprefenting fcveral perfons writing 
 while one didates to them. The infcription on this tomb is inexplicable, 
 and is as follows ; but I could get no certain account of the meaning of it : 
 
 •f- Autore magno nature lege vocabo 
 Patre Rolandino cetm pro confute prima 
 Nunc hie Jcribe locant OSiobris tertia deri 
 Milk trecentenis celeftis prolis ab annis 
 Rejiauratum MDCIII. iterum MDCCXII. 
 
 jeahiify be- A continual emulation reigns betwixt the Francijcans and Dominicans, 
 Fm'ncifcans efpecially at Bologna ; for each of thefe orders ftrive to furpafs the other 
 «w Domini- in buildings and other external magnificence, in order to increafe their 
 revenues and authority. The Dominicans have the advantage in the fplen- 
 dor of their churches ; but in wine-cellars they have hitherto been ex- 
 ceeded by the Francijcans. The high altar of the Fra?2cijcan church is 
 in the Gothic tafte, or, as it is called in Italy, alia T'edcfca. Among the 
 paintings in this church are fome highly-finifhed pieces, by Facini, Luigi 
 Caracci, Brizio, Guide and Tiarini. Pope Alexander V. fome old civi- 
 lians and gloflbgraphers, as Francifcus Accurfms, Ortofrcdus and RomanzOy 
 the philofopher Boccaferri, and other celebrated men in the republic of 
 letters are interred here. Under the marble bufto of the civilian Hanni- 
 bal Monter end, who died in 1586, and lies on the left-hand of the main 
 entrance, are thefe diftichs : 
 
 Francifcan 
 
 thurch. 
 
 Epitaph of 
 
 Monterenci. 
 
 DoBa per ora Virum 'volitas, clarijjime DoSlor^ 
 JEtsrnuJque tiii nominis exjlat honos. 
 
 ' Thy memoiy fliall live, confign'd to fame, 
 ' And every tongue fliall celebrate thy name.* 
 
 And lower down are thefe lines : 
 
 Vivida cui inrtus, cui fumma fcientia Juris, 
 Dum vixit, fiierat, nunc bre'vis tirna tenet. 
 
 * Within this little urn, alas, he lies 
 
 ' Whofe better part exults above the fkies; 
 
 ' His virtue lives, his knowledge never dies.' 
 
 1 
 
 Accurji,
 
 B L G N A. 109 
 
 ylccurfi, who lies on the right-hand as you go towards the convent, Accurfl 
 has only thefe words for his epitaph : '""''• 
 
 Sepulchrum Accwjii GklJatoris Legum. 
 
 * The tomb of Accurfi, a commentator on the law.' 
 
 On the fame fide is the following epitaph : 
 
 Barbara Pretc? Blanch'ina 
 
 Pietate & moribus iiifigni, 
 
 ^cs Presto run I Familiam, 
 
 Per qidngeiitos mmos belli & pads mimeribus 
 
 Bo)ionice illiiftrem, 
 
 NcviJJimis Hieronymi Preti Mufis Italia confpicuam, 
 
 Immatiira morte conclujit, 
 
 Co. Ccefar Blanc hi nus Senator 
 
 yujjis charijf. Conjugis obfequentijjimus 
 
 hijlauravit & pojuit Anno Do?n. MDCLIII. 
 
 ' To the memory o^ Barbara Preti Blanchini, a lady eminent for her 
 ' piety and fweetnefb of manners, the laft furviving perfon of the family 
 
 * of the Preti, which, in a lucceflion of five hundred years, had dif- 
 ' charged at Bo'ogna the higheft civil and military ports with honour 
 ' and reputation ; and of which illuflriou'; houfe the late Gierojiittto Preti, 
 
 * whofe poetry does honour to Italy, was defcended. Couiu Cafar Blan- 
 ' chini, a fenator, in compliance witli the requcil of his beloved con- 
 ' fort erefted this monument in the year 1653.' 
 
 On each fide of this convent are fine arched cloyfters, or galleries, one 
 of which is a hundred and thirty-three, and die other two hundred 
 common paces in length. In the flreet before the convent is a pillar, 
 on the top of which is a brafs ftatue of the virgin Mary {landing on a 
 crefcent. 
 
 S. Gidcomo maggiore, which belongs to the Auguftine monks, is well s. Giacomo 
 furnUlied with good paintings ; and among other reliques, here is flievi^n maggiore. 
 a thorn, as is pretended, of the crown worn by our Saviour at his 
 crucifixion. 
 
 The Jefuits church is dedicated to St. Lucia, and is adorned with jefuitsf/^?<r*&; 
 fome fine marble altars; but the front is a very indifferent one (the de- 
 fed: ot moft of the churches of Bologna) and has nothing of the riches 
 and fplendor by which the Jcjuits in other cities affed: to diflinguifh their 
 
 churches.
 
 no 
 
 Chicfa del 
 .buuno Giesii 
 
 Pai>i:ii:gs in 
 S. Giorgio. 
 
 S. Giovanni 
 £attilla. 
 
 Monument of 
 fibula. 
 
 S. Giovanni 
 
 in Monte. 
 Pi^iu>■e of St. 
 Cecilia, bj 
 Rapliael. 
 
 ■Ceiijured. 
 
 BOLOGNA. 
 
 churches. In a chapel near the entrance is reprefented the proceffion of 
 St. Gregory in order to put a flop to the plague, painted by Frederico Zuc- 
 caro ; St. Lucia and St. Agatha, to be feen over the high altar, are by 
 Vrocaccino ; here are alfo Ibme pieces of painting by Cignani and Erizio. 
 In the college is rtiewn the chamber or cell of St. Fra?2cis Xavier. 
 
 The church called C/vV/^ del buono Giesu is of anoval figue, and is adorned 
 with paintings \n frejco by Pianori, a difciple oi Alhani, and other hands. 
 Here is a very good llatueof our Saviour, or an ecce homo, by Brunelli ; and 
 by the fame mafter is alfo S. Antonio di Padua, to be feen on the altar 
 of the chapel dedicated to that faint. St. ApoUonia of marble, and 
 St. Bernardine of terra cotta, are admirable fpecimens of Lombardi's fkill 
 in fculpture : but nothing can exceed the bajfo-relieio of the circumcifion, 
 on the high altar, by the celebrated Brunelli, 
 
 A connoiiTeur in painting v.'ill not omit feeing S.Giorgio's church, 
 were it only on account of four celebrated pieces of painting : the firft 
 rcprefents the Nativity of Chrift, in frefco, by Cignani; the fecond, 
 the Annunciation, by Luigi Caracci ; the third is the virgin Mary with 
 her divine infant, hy Annibal Caracci ; and the fourth is the baptifm of 
 Chrift, by Albani. 
 
 The church of 5. Giovanni Batti/la de' Celejlini is every where orna- 
 mented with fine paintings. The high altar-piece is a pidture of the Vir- 
 gin with the infant y^«, as is pretended, by St. Luke. The appearance 
 of Chrift to Maty Magdalene in the difguife of a gardener, is by Maffari. 
 Clofe by this piece lies Alexander Fibula, who died in 1541, aged forty- 
 nine ; and in his epitaph he is ftiled Eques Cafareus, and yuris Vtriujque 
 Catididatus. 
 
 S. Giovatitii in Monte is famous for an admirable picfture of St. Cecilia, 
 by Raphael. The faint, inraptured with the harmony of a choir of an- 
 gels, dafties all her mufical inftruments againft the ground. In this 
 piece are alfo feen St. yohn, St. Paul, Mary Magdalene, and St. Aujlin. 
 Count Mahafia, in his lives of the celebrated Bologntfe painters pub- 
 liftied in two volumes in quarto in the year 1678, under the title of 
 Felfuia Pittrice, cenfures the ftiffnefs and want of expreffion both in 
 this and many other pieces by Raphael; and fupports his opinion with 
 the authority of Annihal Caracci. And though Vincejizo Vittoria, in his 
 Ofervazioni Jopra il Libra della Feljina Pittrice, printed in 8vo. at Rome 
 in the year 1703, labours hard to vindicate Raphael's pencil from fuch 
 an imputation ; yet it is not done to the fatisfaftion of impartial judges. 
 However, this piece is greatly valued, and the painter's mafterly ftrukes 
 at a certain diftance give it fuch a charming appearance, that the ftiff- 
 nefs of the dcfign is not obferved. Befides, Raphaels laft pieces ft^ew, 
 that . he had pretty well got the better of this defedl. Vajari relates, 
 
 5 that
 
 BOLOGNA, in 
 
 'Cvi-iX Franc efco Francia^ one of the befl: painters of that timp, being de- 
 firous to get acquainted with Raphael, whofe fame had then begun to 
 fpread, wrote a letter to him ; and the friends of both thefe maflers en- 
 deavoured to bring them to an intimacy. Raphael accepted the offer 
 with the greatefl civility, and fent Fra?icia the pidlure of St. Cecilia, 
 which was defigned for a church in Bologna, requeuing him to mend 
 what faults he might obferve in ir, and afte.wards get it placed where it 
 was defigned for. Francia being extremely elevated at fuch a confidence 
 repoled in him by Raphael, was refolved to hang up the piece himfelf ; 
 and by that means, the longer he now viewed it, the more beauties he 
 perceived in it, fo that he was quite loft in admiration : it was, however, Cmifeofa 
 accompanied with fuch a mortifying convidtion of his being fo vaftly in-taim^'-'! death. 
 ferior to Raphael, that it threw him into a deep melancholy, which foon 
 proved fatal to him. 
 
 In the Capeila del Rofario in this church, is a fine piece of painting, by 
 Domeyiichino, reprefenting the fifteen myfteries of the Rofary. In another 
 chapel is a good picture of the martyrdom of St. Laurence, by Facini. 
 In an apartment near the veftry are feveral paintings by Ercole di Ferrara. 
 On the veftry altar is a picture of St. Patricius, preaching, by Spifanelli.. 
 In the refed:ory is a reprefentation of the marriage-feaft made by a king 
 for his fon, according to the parable in the Gofpel, at which he finds one 
 of the guefts without the wedding-garment : this piece is painted in 
 jrejco by Gefu 
 
 In the church of St. Gregory is a capital piece, by huigi Caracci, re- s. Gregorloi 
 prefenting St. George delivering a lady by killing a dragon. The baptifm 
 of Chrift is one o1 Annibal Caracci\ firft pieces, and in which he had fome 
 alTiftance from his mafter Liiigi Caracci. The large picture of St. Wil- 
 liam is by Guercino. 
 
 In the church of S. Maria del Baracano is fhewn an image of the s. Maria del 
 virgin Mary, which, as is pretended, on being wounded with a muiliet- Baracano. 
 ball, ftied tears, while blood was feen to ilTue from the wound, and the image. 
 offender was immediately ftruck dead with lightning. But one miracle 
 performed by this image is not fufficient ; they tell you, that in the Miracle of 
 year 15 12, when Bologna was befieged, a mine blew up the whole wall ^^^'"•^'"^ "* 
 of the chapel in which this fame image ftood, to fuch a height, that 
 both armies being drawn up, though it was night, could plainly fee 
 one another through the breach ; however, that the wall fell again into 
 its place and was joined as exadl as if it had never been feparated.. A- 
 Latin infcription near it fays :. 
 
 Moenium
 
 II 
 
 BOLD G N A. 
 
 Mi^nh'.m pars iihi piSia Virgt'iih imago cernitur, pervia ulriufque exer- 
 cith oculisfaBa, & mirabiliter in ciindem locum rejiituta. 
 
 IS 
 
 ' That part of the wall where the painted image of the Virgin i 
 
 * feen, was laid open to the view of both armies, and miraculoufly re 
 
 * flored to the fame place.' 
 
 The Italian account concerning this church fays of the wall, Bi Icvb 
 taut' in alto, che per qiiello Jpaz-io rimajlo tra il terreno e V muro gittato in 
 alto, amho gli efferciti /i videro I'lin taltro. ' It was carried up to fuch a 
 
 * height, that, through the intermediate fpace betwixt the earth and the 
 ' wall which was blown up both armies plainly faw each other.' The 
 monks who invented this ftory muft have no idea of the duft and rubbifh 
 of earth, fand, and flone which are always thrown up at the fpringing of 
 a mine. That Jovius, in his fecond book of the Lije cf Leo X. fhould 
 follow the common report, is not to be wondered at ; but one would 
 little expedl to meet with fuch an abfurdity in Guicciardini's judicious 
 hiftory. SigorJ, in his fifth book de epifcopis Bononienjibus only fays, 
 that by the particular intervention of the virgin Mary, the walls received 
 no other damage from fpringing the mine than a gentle concuflion. 
 But the zealots for the fee of Rome in this ftory muft find a ftumbling- 
 block, which certainly they cannot csfily get over ; for according to the 
 ftory, a miracle muft have been performed in favour of pope Julius the 
 fecond's enemies. 
 
 s. Maria di 5. Maria di Go.licra is a beautiful church, and belongs to the fathers 
 
 Gahera. ^f ^^ oratory. The ftucco-work in this church is greatly admired ; 
 
 and likewile the paintings by Guido RJjeni, Guercini, Alhani and Ca- 
 
 racci. 
 
 Annual 7mra- I fti^U juft mention the church of S. Maria di Genna on the TWow^t? 
 
 deofamrin ^^Hg Ponniche, on account of the annual miracle exhibited in it on the 
 
 'i!Ml7id{ ^^^ o( September, which is the anniverfary of the virgin Mary's birth- 
 
 Genna. day. Thev tell you, that multitudes of winged emmets rendezvous 
 
 near this church, and that this whole fwarm diredl their flight on that 
 
 day to an old altar in the church, where they immediately expire. 
 
 Thefe dead emmets the monks diftnbute as an infallible reme 'y againft 
 
 a difeafe called // male di Formica, which is occafioned by a worm, or 
 
 inward ulcer. But that the Papifts may not complain that this is a 
 
 fidlion fathered upon them by heretics, I refer them to the pamphlet 
 
 entitled Lifonnatione per i Foraflieri curioji di vedere le coje pin notabiti di 
 
 Bologna, which has feveral times been printed with the approbation of 
 
 Francefco Aloyfi Barelli, who is ftiled Clerici Regul. Congreg. S. Pauli, 
 
 San£liJJimce
 
 B L G N A. 113 
 
 ^AnBiJJimcc Inqidfitionis Confultcr, & hi Ecc/e/ia Metropolitana Bononia 
 Pcenitentarhis ; as alfb of Fr. y. M. Mazzn?7i Vicarius Gcneralis SancJi 
 Officii Bononia. The church of S. Maria di Genna is flill dependent on 
 Bologna, though it be fituated tliirteen //(s/Z^w miles from that city, be- 
 yond Pia?wro, towards the river Idice. 
 
 Madonna di S. Luca, on the Mo?itc del/a Gtiardia, is a Dominican ^''''^^"""^ ^^ 
 nunnery, about four Italia?t miles from Bologna, and is much refortcd 
 to on account of a picture of the virgin Mary pretended to have been 
 painted by the hand of St. Luke. According to Sigoni, it was brought PiHure painted 
 by a hermit from the church of SanSia Sophia at Conjiantinople in the year h ^'- ^-"l^e. 
 II 60 J and fince that time its power has feveral times been manifefted to 
 the great benefit of the country ; on which account it is every year, in 
 the month of May, brought into the city of Bologna in a folemn pro- 
 cefTion, and faluted by firing of guns. For the greater conveniency uf 
 the pilgrims, an arched colonade has been built from the city to the top 
 of the mountain, which, on account of its great length, may be ac- Ronarhabk co- 
 counted the rnoft remarkable building of that kind in Italy. \\\ the ^''"""''• 
 contribution of the neceffary fums for this colonade, all the handicraft- 
 men, ^c. feemed to vie with each other in the eredion of a perpetual 
 monument of their zeal for the blefled Virgin ; even the very lackeys 
 of the city were at the expence of building fifteen of the arches. On 
 every one of the other arches are the names and even the arms of the 
 benefadors. One fide of the arcade is walled ; but in that towards the 
 road, every arch refl:s upon its refpedlive pillars. Every arch is five com- 
 mon paces, or twelve feet wide, which is alfo the breadth of the walk. 
 The height is about fixteen feet. This arcade does not run in a ftrait 
 line } but its diredion is now and then interrup A with fmall windings : 
 however, in many parts of it there are very lo-;g vifla's, particularly at 
 the grand portico near the city ; from which orie has a view of ninety- 
 three arches in a diredl line, which taken tog ther, are feven hundrtd 
 and fifty common paces in length. There are thirty-three flights of 
 fteps to afcend the aclivity of the mountain ; thele flights confift of a 
 few fleps, and the fpace between is level, and paved with flat flones. 
 
 On the road to Madonna di S. Luca one has a view both of the C//^ Delia Guar- 
 thufian convent, and S. Micbele in Bofco, or St. Michael in the wood. This '^'^^ «ine. 
 little hill is called della Guardia, and produces a very good fort of wine. 
 
 S. Maria de' Servi, or the church of the Services, has a fpacious por- s. Maria de* 
 tico, adorned with thirty-feven red and white marble pillars, and painted ^*^''^'- 
 m frejco. In the church are to be feen fome fine paintings, and no lefs 
 than thirty-four altars. The high altar is remarkable for the fiiatues 
 and other fculpture with which it is embelliflied. In the choir are two 
 epitaphs, highly efleemed by the lialiatis for their concetti, or playing 
 
 Vol. III. Q_ ' on
 
 1X4 B L G N A. 
 
 on words : but as this falle beauty cannot be well preferved in a tranfla- 
 tion, thefe concetti may be concluded to be no part of true wit *. 
 
 MartinoMaff- ^" ^- -^^^^'«<' Maggiorc, among other good paintings is St. Jerom^ 
 
 giore. by Luigi Caracci. 
 
 s. Michcle The convent of S. Michcic in Bofco lies on an eminence without the 
 
 in Bofto. ^j(y^ 3j^(^ belongs to the Olivet^?! monks. Jufl: within the entrance is a 
 marble monument of Capt. Rajnazzotti, by the celebrated Lombardo. 
 On the altar of the choir is a curious tabernacle of inlaid gems. On 
 one fide of the altar is a piece of painting, which was probably firft 
 done hy Gni do Rhetii, and retouched in the year 1689, as the foUow- 
 iii2 diftich feems to intimate : 
 
 Hoc jiijjit Pratiisfecitque colore Vianm 
 Ft Rhetiio & Rheno reddat uterque deem. 
 A. D. MDCLXXXIX. 
 
 The flails in the choir are embellifned with inlaid work, by Ra- 
 phael da BreJ/ia, an Olivet ayi monk ; and on the left-hand near the en- 
 trance to the church is a crucifix of the natural iize, of one piece, cut out 
 of a fig-tree. 
 
 Fmaihigs. This convent was formerly accounted a treafury of fine paintings. 
 
 Luigi Giracci has here diftinguifhed his iTcill by feveral pieces reprefent- 
 ing the life of St. BetiediB ; but that piece which exhibits the faint in 
 the wildernefs, and the neighbouring peafants bringing to him fruit, eggs, 
 iheep, &c. was painted by Giiido. The figure that chiefly attracts the 
 admiration of the beholder in this piece, is a beautiful young woman, 
 with a turban on her head, and a bafket of eggs under her arm ; fo that 
 
 La Turban- from her the whole pidlure is called La Turbantitia. Here were alfo 
 
 ^'"■^- fome valuable pieces of painting by Tiarino, Brijio, Majfari, Cavedoni, 
 
 and other difciples o'i Luigi Caracci ; but by the injuries of the weather to 
 which thcfe paintings mfrcjco were expofed, and the carelefnefs of the 
 monks, who little concern themfelves about the real beauty of fine 
 paintings, many of the pieces are almofl: effaced, the plafter being 
 fallen oflf in fome places, &c. Some of the pieces are indeed retouched 
 by fuch unlldlful hands, that they have fpoiled what they endeavoured 
 to mend. 
 
 Lihary. This convent has a very elegant library, the cieling of which is painted 
 
 by Afncr and Camiii. Befides the booke-, here is a very good coliedion 
 of mathematical inftruments, optical glaffes, ^c. The fniall bronze 
 image of the archangel Michael fliewn herCj is the \\'ork of the Cava- 
 
 * Thefe epitaphs, anJ fevcral others, v.-hich are nothing but a firing of funs, are oniitteil 
 
 in this tranilatio.-i. 
 
 Here
 
 BOLOGNA 115 
 
 lere Alg(trdi. The terrafie belonging to this convent yields a tnofl; delight- ^'■o/fcei. 
 fill prolpeft towards the eaft (as far as the eye can reach) of an cxtenfive 
 plain, beautifully diverfified with corn-fields, meadows, vineyards, vil- 
 las, and fummer-houfes ; and the city of Bologna, which is but two 
 Italian miles from it, lying as it were juft under it, is a great addition to 
 the profpedl. 
 
 The Mons Pietatis, or the Charitable-corporation-office, near the ca- Mons Picta. 
 thedral, is a handfome building ; and in the portico of it feveral per- '"• 
 fons attend to advance money to the neceffitous on vei7 moderate terms. 
 Over the entrance is a Picta or the virgin Mary lamenting over Chrifl's 
 dead body, well executed in ten-a cotta, with this infcription : 
 
 Mons Pietatis 
 
 Adverfus pravas Judceortim ufuras ereSfus 
 
 M.DLXXVI. 
 
 ' The charitable fociety inftituted againft the extravagant ufuries of 
 * the Jews in the year 'i^S7^' 
 
 The church of S. Paolo de Padri Bernabiti is remarkable for the two ^- Pao!o de' 
 marble ftatues of St. Peter and St, Paul, by Ccefarc Coventi, ereded on 
 the front ; and of St. Carlo and St. Philippo Neri, in plafter, by Ercole 
 Fichi, placed above them. The State of Blifs in Heaven is admirably 
 well painted in the cupola of this church, by Liiigi Caracci. The Nati- 
 vity of Chrift, the Adoration of the Eaftern Magi, and fome other pieces, 
 are by Cavedoni : A reprefentation of Purgatory, and S. Carlo bearing a 
 crofs in a public proceffion at Milan in the time of a peftilence, are by 
 Giierci7ii. On the high altar are three pieces of perfpeclive, confiding 
 of beautiful fmall pillars. The /^fl;^-/r/zV'uo reprefenting the martyrdom 
 of St. Paul, is the work of Algardi, a Bohgneje. 
 
 The church of 8. Paolo, called F OJJcrvanza de Padri Minori OJ[cr-^-^f'^°,^<^\ 
 vanti. Reformat i di S. Francefco, lies v/ithoutthe city, and affords jioth in g 
 remarkable; but in the convent is fliewn the cell where ^X. Anthony lived; Si. AnthcnyV 
 and in the garden are fome cyprefs- trees, faid to be planted by St. Ber- Cy^,.en-„ f^ hy 
 nard. The monks difpofe of a kind of white flone, which they call s7. Btniaid. 
 Latte della Madonna, or Our Lady's Milk, for money, and recommend 
 it as a fpecific to procure milk in women. I believe I have before ob- 
 ferved, that the relique which paflfes under the name of the Virgin's ^'^':'^"'^f^>^- 
 Milk, is no more than a kind of ^crra hemnia, or a medicinal foffile, t^^'.^,, 
 of an alkaline quality, which is a fweetener of the blood and juices ; Mary ;j w 
 and confequently from its natural property, it may be of fervice in fuch '''''"'^• 
 cafes. 
 
 Q_2 The
 
 ii6 B L G N A. 
 
 '5'r.PctronittsV The church of St. Fctronim is the largeft in all Bologna., on which 
 ihurch. account the coronation of the emperor Charles V, was performed there in 
 
 Charresv/'^ the year 1530. The length of this church is three hundred and fixty, and 
 the brendth "a hundred and fifty-four feet. The large piece of painting 
 reprefenting that memorable tranfadlion, is by Brizio. The liigh altar, 
 which is infulated or detached from the wall, refts on four beautiful pil- 
 lars of grey marble. On the right-hand near the entrance of the church 
 Miraaihui is the toHib of Cardinal Lnznri, who died in the year 1677 : and in the 
 image. ^^^.^ chapcl On that fide is the image of a foldier with a dagger in his 
 
 hand, as a memorial of that wretch's impiety, who, as the ftory goes, 
 in the year 1405, being enraged at an ill run in gaming, ftabbed an 
 image of the virgin Mary with his dagger, and boke off one of the toes 
 of the infant in her arms. Upon this he fell down immediately deprived 
 of his ftrength, and was fentenced to die : but the Virgin, moved by 
 his repentance, at once reftored him to his health ; and this miracle alfo 
 procured him a full pardon. 
 jnaer.t pic- lu 3 chapcl ou the left-hand fide of the church is a piece of painting, 
 tureofthe cier- reprcfcnting hell, where a great number of red hats, mitres, and crowned 
 ^'^'-'" " ■ heads are to be feen among the damned; but this piece being almoft 
 effaced by length of tiirre, one cannot rightly diftinguifli whether the 
 artift went fo far as to put a Pope in this wretched groupe. 
 Mfidian line The grcateft curiofity in this church, is the brafs meridian-line drawn 
 t)- Caffini. i^y Ca/Jiui, the celebrated aflronomer. It confifts of pieces of red and 
 white marble inlaid, of a hand's breadth; but thofe pieces in which the 
 figns of the Zodiac are cut, are a foot fquare. All the reft of this 
 church is paved with brick. This line is above half the length of the 
 church ; but does not run parallel with the church-wall. At the begin- 
 ning is this infcription : 
 
 MeridiarKt hujiis femitce tot a hngitudo, an^a titulis., eft fey.centi-millefima 
 pan circuit lis wiiverfce terrce. 
 
 ♦ The whole length of this meridian-line, diftinguiflied by the 
 ' figns, &c. is the fix hundred thoufandth part of the circumference 
 ' of the terraqueous globe/ 
 
 The length of this meridian-line is faid to be a hundred and eighty 
 feet, twenty thousand of which feet are equal to a German mile; and 
 the circumference of the earth is computed to be 5400 fuch miles, 
 reckoning 15 to a degree. I cannot conceive by what m&z^nxe Mi ffoa 
 makes the length of the line to be two hundred and twenty feet. 
 
 4 
 
 On
 
 B L G N A, iiy 
 
 On the pavein ent, at the end of the h'ne, is this infcription in white 
 marble : 
 
 Linea Meridiana 
 
 A vertice 
 
 Ad Tropiciim Capricorni. 
 
 • The meiidian-Hne from the Zenith to the tropic of Capricorn.' 
 
 The divifions are marked with the following words along the line : 
 
 Maxuni 4err(f. circuit II. & III. Gradus dijiantice a vert ice. Perfendi- 
 ctdi partes ccntcfunce. Hora ab occajii ad oricntcw. Signa Zodiaci defcen- 
 dentia. Signa Zodiaci afcetidejitia, Sec. Oppofite to the vertical point is 
 the date MDCLII. 
 
 A fmall round aperture has been made in the roof of the church, 
 towards the fouth, thro' which the rays of the fun form a circular lu- 
 minous fpot about eight inches in diameter, on the pavement, which 
 fliews the proper meridianal point on the line every day. On the wall, 
 at the end of the meridian-Hne, is to be feen the following infcription cut 
 in white marble. 
 
 D. 0. M. 
 
 Alitor it ate illujirijfimorum Senator iim 
 
 Prcejidis & Fabricejijiian 
 
 Meridiana hcec linea Horizmifalis 
 
 Solcm in meridie e templi fornice 
 
 Ad infcripta ca:lejliiim locorum jigna toto anno excipiens. 
 
 Ante XL. annos per iiitercoluinnium oblique occurrem 
 
 Reperto aiigitjliffimo tramite paducia 
 
 Eccle/iaflicis, AJhonoinicis, 
 
 Geographicifqiie ufibus accommodata 
 
 A. JOH. DOMINICO CASSINO 
 
 Botionienjis Archigymnajii AJlronomo priinario 
 
 Et Mat he mat i CO Pontificio. 
 
 ylb eodem in Itaiico itinere e Regia ajironomica Parijienji 
 
 Regiaque Scientiarum Academia 
 
 ^co ad Chri/liani//. Rcgem Ludoviciim Magnum, 
 
 Annuente Clement e IX. Stimm. Pont, concejferaty 
 
 Ad Solem iteriim diligent ijime expanfa 
 
 , Cirk/li mcridiano adhuc mire co?igriiere inve^ita efl^ 
 
 Et Jexcenti-wilh'Jimam terrce circuitus partem 
 
 Ab
 
 ii5 ■ B L G N A, 
 
 Ah initio adfpeciei Jblis hibernce ipjhmfmicntis medium 
 
 Accipcre ; 
 
 Horizontali ant em pofitioni, tinde exiguo templi motu 
 
 Incequaliqiie foli attritii recejferat, accurate 7-cJJituta, 
 
 Injlante anno maxima aquinotliormn in Kalendario Gregoriano 
 
 PraceJJionis 
 
 Hie potijjimiim obfervonda 
 
 Labente anno Salutis MDCLXXXXV. 
 
 • To God the greatefl: and beft of Beings.' 
 ' By order of the moft illuftrious fcnators, the prefident and furveyors 
 
 * of the works, this horizontal nieridian-Hne on which the rays of the 
 ' fun during the whole year fall at noon through the roof of this 
 ' church, and which forty years ago paffed obliquely betwixt the pillars, 
 ' was for the benefit of the clergy and all mathematicians, drawn by 
 ' Gicvanni Domenico CaJJini^ chief aftronomer in the univerfity of Bolog- 
 ' nia, &c. in a more magnificent manner. The fame celebrated Aflro- 
 ' nomer in his return to Italy from the Royal academy of Paris, whither 
 
 * he had gone at the invitation of His moft Chriftian Majefty Lewis the 
 ' Great, and with the permiflion of His Holinefs C/ement IX. accurately 
 ' examined this line, and found it ftill to correfpond exaflly with the ce- 
 ' leftial meridian; and that from the beginning to the tropic of Capricorn 
 ' where it terminates, it was equal to the fix hundred thoufandth part of 
 ' the circuit of the earth. It was likewife with the moft exadl pundua- 
 
 * lity, in the year of the greateft proceftion of the Equinox, according to 
 ' the Gregorian Calendzr, obferved in this place, reftored to its horizon- 
 
 * tal polition, from which by a fmall concufilon of the church and the 
 
 * unequal attrition of the pavement it had a little deviated. A, D. 1695. 
 
 Under this infcription is a brafs line not above a fpan and a half in 
 length, divided into a thoufand parts, the divifions being marked out by 
 hundreds, with this infcription near it : 
 
 Cent ef ma pars altitudinis fornicis millies fubdivifa. 
 
 ' The hundredth part of the height of this arched roof fubdivided 
 
 * into a thoufand parts.' 
 
 D.rroculo. The following epitaph on the outfide of the wall of the Church of 
 S. Procnlo, is another complete fpecimen of the genius of the Italians for 
 concetti, i. q. Puns, or playing upon words: 
 
 4 Si
 
 BOLOGNA, 119 
 
 &'i procitl a Proculo Procidi canipana fuijjet 
 "yam procul a Proculo Proculus ipje foret. 
 A. D. 1393. 
 
 But the wit of this piece, if any, as has been before obferved, wouLd 
 be quite loft in a tranflation. 
 
 Whether this Proculus, who was buried here, was a ftudent wlio 
 Shortened his life by rifing every morning to his Books, when the bell 
 of this church rung for ;;w///«j ; or whether according to the other ac- 
 count, he was killed by a bell belonging to this church that fell on him, 
 is a matter of no great importance. 
 
 In the Convent to which this church belongs is fliewn the cell where Gratian'^ cdh 
 Gratian the monk drew up the Decretum. In the refedory is a pidure 
 oi' St. Peter, fifhing, painted by Leonello Spada. St. Proculo, a nobleman 
 o? Bologna, is faid to have fuffered martyrdom without the city, oppofitc 
 the porta di S. Mamolo. The place where his head was Ibuck off is St. Proculo 
 ■marked by a crofs erecfled on the fpot j but it feems the Saint carried ^-^'f''''^" '''■"'' 
 his head in his hands, from this crofs, to the place where the church hi's°"hea7'?"ci 
 dedicated to him now ftands. This miracle is commemorated in the ''^'^ "'.>• 
 following infcription under the crofs": 
 
 Hie S. Proculus Miles, Bo?wn. facro Martyrio coronatus exjlitit abfciffo 
 capite, quod iftuc idn nunc Hints Templum conjpicitur manibus propriis detulit. 
 Anno Bom. D. XIX. 
 
 * Here St. Procido, a noble knight of Bononia, was crowned with 
 ' martyrdom by the lofs of his head, which with his own hands h© afcer- 
 ' wards carried to the fpot where his church is now built.' 
 
 .tore. 
 
 The church di S. Sahatore, belongs to a religious fraternity who flyles. Salvato 
 themfelves, Cancnici Regohiri della Congregatione Renann del Santijjinio 
 Salvatore, or Canons Regular, &c. and have been in poffeffion of this 
 church and convent ever fince the year 1 100. The former has been 
 rebuilt from a delign of P. Magenta, a Barnabite monk o^ Milan, and is 
 ornamented with fine ftucco work, and paintings. On feveral fellivals, '^'"''^■"•'■f ''■' « 
 the cornifhes within the church are fet all round with fmall orange-trees "'''••'■"*• 
 in filver flower-pots. Here are feveral fine pieces of painting by Lin^i 
 Caracci ; of which, the moft admired are the aifumption of theViro-m 
 Mary, and a p:(5ture of our Saviour. GiroJamo Carpi, Guide, Benc-vr- 
 mito Tijio, Samacbino and Ca-vedoni have likewile difplaved their fkill 
 .in this church. The convent is fpacious and elegant; it confifts of four CmicKt. 
 
 coiu^ts.
 
 I20 B L G N J, 
 
 'courts. The pcrfpedive pieces in frefco, at the end of the cioyfters, are 
 by Mitclli ; and the marble Itatue of Chrift, an excellent piece, is the 
 work of the celebrated BriinelU. Thirty-three canons always refide in 
 the Convent, excliifive of the Novitiates, who ftndy Divinity and Philofo- 
 lihrary. phy, Under two profeflbts. In the library are a great number of curious 
 /Yrr/r^/Eib '"^""^'-''''P^'''' particularly, one of the hiftory of queen E/z'/jfr, written on 
 hex. yellow coarfe leather, which is done up in a roll, or volume, according 
 
 to the original fignification of the word. It is written in large Hebrew 
 charaders, which the canons would have one believe to have been writ- 
 ten byfixr^. 
 
 When I took, the liberty to objedt, on account of the points or vowels, 
 againft the great antiquity of this Manufcript, their anfwer was, That 
 thefe points had been added by fome officious modern hand : and indeed, 
 it mull be acknowledged, that the ink with which the text was written, 
 is much blacker than that of the vowels under it. 
 Hebrew hla- Here is alfo ihewn a Hebrew Pentateuch, or rather all the books of the 
 vufoipt of the Qj(j Xeflament, written on Vellum, in three volumes in folio, faid to 
 ' ^'-i "'"'"'• j^ave been written in the year 953. At the beginning of one of the Vo- 
 lumes is inferted the following account in Italian : Jfaacjiliolo de Jacob 
 Jcriff'e qiiejlo Libro con iutto il corpo di quefta Biblia, e Manuel Jiliolo de uno 
 chiamato Solthedar, e fu furnita el Martedi a di 26. dehneje di Marzo del 
 953. in tre Volnmini. i.e. ' i/Wi^f the fon of y<7co^ wrote this book, and 
 • almoft this whole bible, affifted by Emanuel the fon of one called Sol- 
 ' thedar (or rather Solcedar). It was finilhed on Tuejday the twenty-fixth 
 ' day of Mi?rf,6, 953, in three Volumes.' This Manufcript is written 
 with the points or vowels. 
 Other Manu- Among the other Manufcripts, which are about three hundred in 
 fintts. number, are the following. 1. The. Pentateuch, with the comments of 
 
 the Rabbi's, in Hebrew. 2. A medical treatife in Hebrew. 3. Meuro- 
 phanes de Spiritu SanSto in Greek, and bound in filk. 4. Several of the 
 Greek homilies of St. Chryjo/lom. 5. Ten difcourfes by the fame author, 
 in Greek, upon that text in JJdiah, ' I faw the Lord,' fuppofed to have 
 been written in the tenth century. 6. A Greek verfion of the Pfalms of 
 David, by the fame father. 7. The New Teftament, faid to be of the 
 eleventh century, full of abbreviations ; among which S.-i,- is commonly 
 written «c 8. A Greek verfion of the minor prophets, and Daniel, 
 fuppofed to be of the tenth century. 9. A Greek Manufcript of St. Ba- 
 /?/'s expofition of the pfalms, and his homilies on fafting, of the fame 
 date. 10. A Greek fragment of the hiftory o^ Byzantium, ox Conjianti- 
 nople, by an anonym.ous author, faid by Montfmcon to be of no ancienter 
 date than the thirteenth century. 11. LaSfantiuss works, which the 
 
 Canons,
 
 B L G N A. ^ ,21 
 
 Canons, on account of fome marginal concclions, will have to be the* 
 origirial manulciipt. 
 
 Among the moft ancient printed books, in this library, are Cicero % Old editipn «f 
 works, publilhed by Alexander Manutius at Milatt, in the year 1498, in C'<="°' 
 four Volumes, folio ; likcwife a LatitihWAt in folio, at the end of which 
 the following account is printed : 
 
 Ptu hoc opiifculinn artificlofd ad'invcntione imprimendi feu cara5lerizandi 
 ahfqiie calami exarationc in civitate Moguniii fie effigiatum, Gf ad Eufebiam 
 Dei indii/irie per Joh'ez Fuji civem, & Petrum Schoiffher de Gernfl.vym 
 Clericum ciioces ejujdem ejl confummatum. Anno Domini MCCCCLXil. in 
 Vigilia ajfumtionis Virg. Marie. 
 
 ' This work is a fpecimen of the invention of printing, or exprefllng 
 * charadters without the affiftance of the pen, and was completed at 
 ' Mentz, for the benefit of religion, by the induflry oi John Fiift a lay- 
 ' man, and Peter Scboijf'er oiGernJlxim, a prieft of the diocefe o( Mentz, 
 ' in the year 1462, on the eve of the affumption of the Virgin Mary.' 
 
 St. Stephens i church belongs to the Cale/line monks, and properly con- st. Stefana. 
 fifts of k\cn churches built together ; but in fuch an irregular difpoli- 
 tion, that a perfon may foon lofe himfelf in it*. 
 
 The Archigymnajium, or Univerfity, according to fome writers, was Uniwrfitj. 
 founded by the emperor T/'tWi?/7« in the year 433. Others with more 
 probability attribute it to Cljarles the great. Here are profefibrs for ora- 
 tory, philofophy, the oriental languages, geometry, aftronomy, ana- 
 tomy, phyfic, the civil and canon law, civil and ecclefiaftical hiftory, 
 and Divinity ; and all of them have handfome falaries. Both the civil 
 and canon law have been taught at Bologna with very great reputation by 
 Ireneri, Gratiani, Bwgari, Alberico da Porta, Accurfi, Bartoli, Baldi, 
 and Uzo. The Lift mentioned is faid to have had, at one time, ten thou- 
 fand ftudents for his pupils. At prefent, the foreign ftudents are in all 
 about four hundred. The publick college, or univerfity, which is alfo 
 Cilled il Studio, is feven hundred and forty palms, or two harwjred ?tnd li Siu£o. 
 thirteen common paces in length, and was built hy Giacomo Barocci , an ar- 
 chitect: olVigmla. Near the entrance of this ftrufture, on the rioht hand, 
 is a grand ftair-cafe, adorned with fome good paintings in frefco, by Va- ' 
 kfio, reprefenting the noble a-ftions of St. Carlo Borromeo. On the left 
 fide of the ftair-cafe, Lionarda Spada has painted a monument in honour 
 of V/enceflaus Lazarus, a philofopher and phyfician, with fuch mafierly 
 
 * A great number of reliques mentioned by the author are here omitted. 
 
 Vol. III. R ftrokes,
 
 122 B L G N A. 
 
 'ftrokes of the pencil, that it appears to be a beautiful bafTo^relievo. Gaetano 
 Creti has <T:-'cn a noble proof of his fkili on another monument painted 
 o/Sbarabeo. jpi Jrefco, to Giovanni Gieronimo Sbarabeo., M. D. who died in the year 
 Maipighi. j^io. The infcripdon on that of the celebrated Malpighi is as follows: 
 
 Virtute & Famce 
 
 In cevum manjurce 
 
 Inclyti Viri 
 
 MARCEL LI MALPIGHII, 
 
 Medicina ProfeJI'oris celeberrimi 
 
 Utraque Artiflarum Ufiiverfitas 
 
 Amto Sdlutis 
 
 MDCLXXXIIL 
 
 Mirarii breve Lemma ? 
 Nomen itigens 
 Ornari negat : eji 
 
 Satis rejerri 
 'Jujjum catera cur 
 'facer e 7narmor: 
 Omnh MALPIGHIUM loquctur cetas. 
 
 ' To the eminent virtues and immortal fame of the great Marcello 
 Malpighi, profeflbr of phyfic, the two academies have ereded this 
 monument, in the year of our Redemption 1683.' 
 
 ' Reader, if thou are furprized at the brevity of this Epitaph, know, 
 ' that an illuftrious name needs no panegyrics. It is fufficient to tell 
 ' thee why the marble is thus filent in his praife: Fame thro' every age 
 * will refound Malpighi's name.' 
 
 But among the multitude of learned perfons to whofe memory, as in 
 the college at Padua, monuments are raifed, here are feveral obfcure 
 names to be feen, whofe reputation never extended itfelf beyond the 
 limits of their own country*. 
 
 * Several Epitaphs of fuch obfcure perfons, where there was nothing remarlcable in the 
 
 iitntiment, language, iiff. are opiitted in the tranflation in this and other parts of thefe volumes. 
 
 c The
 
 B L G N A. 123 
 
 T\\Qanair,nncal theatre is ornamented with wo'v.ien ftatues of" the moftT'"^3"'°^i 'i- 
 cdebratcd anatoaiirts, and the floor is boarded vv di cyprefs ; but it wants 
 a proper light. Not far from it is a monument of Francefcus and Achil- 
 ks de Moratorin, which has been repaired and embclliflied with good 
 painting bv T^lynfia de Moratoriis, a relation of the deceafed. The Privileges of 
 German rtudents at Bologna are under particular regulations of their own German flu- 
 forming, and havea diflindRegifter, with feveral other privileges Thc_^ ,. „ 
 fees paid by a German ftudent for the degree of doftor in the civil law, torsjhjmts, 
 amount to two hundred and ninety-two Lire *, or about forty-three rix- 
 dollars. 
 
 Liiigi Ferdinando, Count de Marjigli, inftituted at Bologna an academy Co""- '^^rfig- 
 offciences, in the year 1712, for the improvement of natural hiflory, j^^'^J^ /.''^' 
 mathematics, natural philofophy, chemiftr}', anatomy, and phyfick. ces. 
 M. de Limiers publiflied an account of this academy at Amjierdam, in 
 the year 1723. With this, tlie Academia Clementina bcnarum artium, 
 founded at Bologna not long before by pope Clement XL for archi edture 
 and painting was incorporated. For the farther advancement of this in- 
 flitution, the city purchaled and gave the Palazzo Celefi to the academy, L.Unjiiiuta. 
 that the library, the Miifeum, the obfervatory, the fchools, and profeffors 
 apartments might be under the fame roof. Over the entrance of this 
 magnificent edifice is the following truly catholick infcription : 
 
 Bononienfe 
 
 Scientiannn & Artium 
 
 Injiitutum 
 
 Ad publicum 
 
 Totius Orhis 
 
 Ufum. 
 
 • The Bononian academy of arts and fciences for the publick ufe of 
 
 ' the whole world.' 
 
 In afcending the tower belonging to this flrudlure, you firfl come \_Q^^hola ajimni. 
 the aflronomical fchool, where is to be feen ^ model of the Copernican '""^''' 
 fyflem. Here is alfo a perpendicular meridian-line, cut through a wall a 
 foot thick, which was altered above eight times before it could be made 
 to correfpond with the meridian of this place. Manfredo had the diredion Linea merUi- 
 of this work. On each fide hang telefcopes, compalles, quadrants, ^c.''""^"- 
 fo that as the ftars crofs the meridian, proper obfervations may be the 
 more conveniently made. For which end alfo the iliutters of the line, 
 
 * 19 /. 12 J. A Lire at Bologna is equal to a fliilling, the author muft therefore mean the 
 Hamburgh rix-doUars, at 4 f. 6 a'. 
 
 R 2 or
 
 ,24 BOLOGNA. 
 
 or aperture in the wall may be removed at pleafure *. On tlie walls of 
 the aftronomical fchool hung Ccvcral drawings and paintings relating to 
 the obfervations taken of the llin, moon, comets, and other celeftial 
 bodies. 
 Oh/cr-vatory. Higher up in this tower is the obfervatory, which on every fide has 
 fhutters to be opened or fhut as required, and a gallery on the outfide. 
 Expenccscfii. Though this obfervatory, with its apparatus, has already cofl the city 
 twenty-lix thouland fciidi or crowns, it is not yet completed. This tower 
 is afcended by two hundred and feventy fteps; and the top of it alfo ferves 
 for aftronomical obfervations ; thro' an aperture in which, juft over the 
 Stan [ten by niiddlc of the fpiral ftair-cafe, the ftars may be feen in the day time ' 
 djj-Iigji. f|-Q,i-j (-he vault under the tower, when it is finiflied. Such a phaenomenon 
 was formerly feen from the royal obfervatory at Paris, before an altera- 
 tion was made there on account of a new meridian-line. 
 College library. The library belonging to the college is in the fecond ftory, and chiefly 
 confifts of Count Mar/iglPs books, who founded the academy, as men- 
 tioned above. It contains feveral 'Turb'/J:, Arabic, and other oriental 
 manufcripts, which were part of tlie Ccr^vW library; fox Marfgli was pre- 
 fent at the taking of £i/d'/;. Before this nobleman incurr'd his Imperial 
 maiefly's difpleafure by the affair of old Brifac, the emperor Leopold of- 
 fered him four thoufand ducats for this coUedlion of manufcripts.' Here 
 is a great variety of other books relating to philofophy, mathematics, 
 ^antiquhlef ^"^^ antiquitics. An apartment adjoining to this library is full of an- 
 Vafa lacry- cicnt Weights, ums, "cafa lacrinmtoria, or lacrymatories, in which the 
 matona. ancients colledled the tears flied over their deceafed friends, and after- 
 wards fet them by the urn -f-. Here are alfo facrificing inflruments, Ro- 
 7nan, Grecian and Egyptian idols ; Roman votive pieces, and a tablet in- 
 laid with Egytian hicro.:;lyphics, after the manner of the tabula Ifiaca at 
 Turin ; but it is not fo large. 
 School for ex- In another apartment is taught experimental philofophy. The paint- 
 perimental phi- jj^p-s and defigus with which it is decorated, reprefent remarkable parti- 
 "■'"^ ^' culars on feveral parts of the globe, as volcano's, and other mountains 
 
 of a fingular quality; large iflands of ice, frequent in the north feas; the 
 cataradls of the Nile and other great rivers ; the formation of the rain- 
 bow, of clouds, &c, 
 
 * The Italians in general, and the Bolognefe in particular, were the firft who gave their 
 fandlion to Copernicui's fyftem ; who was inftrucied in the firft rudiments of aftronomy at 
 Bologna., under Domenico Maria. The firft of the Gerinan literati, wlio efpoufed his opinion, 
 was cardinal Nicholas Schonberg, at whofe recommendation pope Pi:iil III. ma^^e him Pro- 
 feflbr of Mathematids at Rome, which was tlic firft preferment that famous aftronomer had. 
 
 f The jilibe Bencini of Turin, affured me that he and Fnlretti had found feveral of thefe 
 lachrymatories of glafs in the catacombs of Rome ; and that the mouth of thefe vafes was 
 contrived to be held fo clofe to the eye that not a tear could be loft. 
 
 la
 
 B L G N A. 125 
 
 In a clofet adjoining to this fchool feveral loadftones are kept ; among loadftonts. 
 whicli there is one, fcarce fo hig as a man's fift, and weighing only nine 
 ounces without the cap, that lifts up two hundred and thirty ounces. 
 This put me in mind of the Hcirtfoker magnet to be feen in the land- 
 grave of He//e-CaJ?/'s mufasum, which takes up a pound and a half, tho' 
 it weighs not much above a drachm. The attradtive power of this ftone 
 greatly depends on the capping, by which it has been obferved to be 
 furprifingly augmented. 
 
 Another apartment exliibits a variety of fliells and other marine pro- Marinep-oduc- 
 dudtions. Adjoining to this is a clofet containing a colledlion of femi- '""■'• 
 pellucid (lones. In this clafs are comprehended agate, jafper, turquoife, Colkaiom of 
 calcedony, onyx, and lapis lazuli. The tranfparent ftones are kept in '''^^^''' "&"''> 
 another clofet; and among them are feveral uncommon kinds of cryllal, Cr\'flal, ame- 
 amethyfl:, G'r. with the name affixed to each piece. Here are alfo 'hji, &c. 
 many hundred fpecies of marble and other ftones in feparate repofitories, Mar3/f. 
 which being well polilLed, and all arranged according to their different 
 colours, make a beautiful appearance. Here is a great number of pieces 
 of porphyry, and near a fine ftone marbled with green and blue, is the 
 following infcription : 
 
 Lapis ad Smaragdi Pramam accede fis, ncnnidlis lapidis Lazuli portiun- 
 culis elegantijjime tnterjperjiis. 
 
 i. e. ' A ftone refembling a kind of emerald, beautifully variegated 
 ' with fmall veins of lapis lazuli.' 
 
 No mention is made from whence this curious flone was brought. 
 
 A kind of marble known by the name of verde afitico, fo often inen- 
 tioned in my letters from Rome, is called Ophites viridis & liiteus in this 
 collection. The finefl: among the affortment of alabaftcr was brought 
 from the ifland of Paros. Thoifc pieces of marble in which fhells are f,Jliti>ii ' 
 inclofed form a particular clafs, to which the lumachella belongs. 
 
 The Saxon foffiles are put together in the fliape of a mountain. Thefe Saxon /affiles . 
 were a prefent from king Augujlus, and are kept in a particular clofet ; 
 in which are alio to be fezn all kinds of glebes, earths, fulphur, allum, 
 vitriol, foffile falts, fpars, plafter, Bononian ftones, fand, freeftones, mar- 
 caiites, bloodftones, magnets, cinnabar, antimony, and other ores of 
 quickfilver, iron, lead, tin, copper, filver, gold, ^c. 
 
 In another room are kept feveral kinds of fea-v/eeds, z% Keratophyta Marine tlann, 
 marina-, Alcyonia., vegetabilia marina libidea, corals, fpunge, (^c. 
 
 The next apartment exhibts all kinds of exotic fruits, wood?, leaves ExctUs. 
 of plantSj roots and barks of trees (iiinong which are thirteen fpecies of 
 
 the
 
 126 B L G N A, 
 
 the Peruvian cortex) gums, refines, balfam?, fungi, with the feeds of 
 all kinds of vegetables. 
 Miif.tum ani- Q^e large room is diftliiguiflied by the appellation of Mufeiim anima- 
 Jiiim, and contains a very great variety of all kinds of animals, as fii'llce 
 vmrirKT, or ftar-fiHies, rtiell and fquamofe fifhes, ferpents, crocodiles, 
 lizzards, cameleons, birds, locufts, ^c. 
 ihelljijh in The ftonc in which a kind of fliell-fiOi grows, and mentioned above 
 jhae. |j^ p^y account oi Ancona, has alio a place in this colle(f^ion with the fol- 
 
 lowing infcription : 
 
 Lapides, iji quibus Pbohides feu Bala?ii Bonn, iijgejiti numero nidulantur 
 ex littore Anconitano. 
 
 i. e. ' The ftones in which the pholades or balatii are inclofed in great 
 ' numbers, brought from the coalt of Ancofia.' 
 
 PearhextraSi. Near a clufter of fome hundreds of fmall pearls, in the form, and 
 «»/"W. ' about the bignefs of half a walnut, are thefe words : 
 
 Uniomim congeries eleganfijjima ex animali extraBa. 
 
 * A moft beautiful congeries of pearls taken out of an animal.' 
 
 , , Butterflies are here preferved, which bein? dipt in a balfamic liquor, re- 
 
 Methodofpre- . ., , • • • , i r r i k /ii i '■ t-- • r • • 
 
 /er'uirtg Butter- tain all thcir ongioal beauty tor leveral years. An Aaae at riorence, is laid 
 j!ies,BirJ>,^c. to be poffefTed of a fecret for preferving birds againft all corruption or da- 
 mage by worms ; but he is lb very fond of this nojlrum, that it is likely 
 to die with him ; at leaft he has hitherto obftinately rejected all over- 
 tures made to him for communicating this fecret. 
 Clofet of -war- The Warlike inftruments, as models of cannon, mortars, &c. take up 
 tike tftjiru- ^ particular apartment, in which alfo is' feen the model of the citadel of 
 ' . old £r//^7f, and likewife of other fortifications, after the different methods 
 ^rijicaiotis, pj.g£^j(gj hy Vaiiban, Sturm, Rufetjftein, Malleti, Bellini, Floriani, Mclder, 
 
 Werth?7iuller, Cohcrn, Grotta,BombeUi, and feveral other engineers. 
 Weights and Another room contains a coUedion of all forts of weights and fcales. 
 Mies. In the turnery-room are all kinds of laths and inftruments for turn- 
 
 urnery-room. -^^^^^ portraits, and Other maftcr-picces ; and likewife all the inftruments 
 ufed in making clock-work. 
 J fchool for A fuperb gallery defigned for the library is jufl: finifhed, which leads 
 ^navi^atlon" ^"^° ^ room appropriated for curiofities relating to geography and navi- 
 gation. In the centre of it hangs a fmall galley ; and the walls of it are 
 covered with jufl and elegant drawings and models for fhip-building. 
 
 The
 
 B L G N A. 127 
 
 The chemical apartment is on the ground-floor ; but the necefTary funds 
 for teaching this fcience and fliip-building, not being yet fettled, no 
 colleges are yet affigned for thofe ufeful arts : However, the other pro- 
 fefTors are obliged once a week, to read a public led:ure in this fchool. 
 
 The painting academy ftands alfo on the ground-floor, and is oxn2i--^<:'"i""y fir 
 mented in a manner becoming fuch a place. The cieling is beautifully^'""""'^* 
 painted by Pellegrino di Baldi, where Polyphemus feeking out Vlyjfes and 
 his companions, after the lofs of his eye, cannot be fufficiently admired. 
 In winter, the difciples who are inftrudted in painting, meet in a particu- 
 lar room, built in the form of an amphitheatre and well illuminated 
 with lamps, where above a hundred and fifty of them may conveniently 
 lit in three or four rows and draw from the life. 
 
 In the academy of fculpture are to be feen wooden models of the zv\-Schocl fir 
 cient obeliflcs at Rome, with drawings and copper-plates of feveral me..f"'^P'""- 
 chanical machines. In a room adjoining to it are ftatues, and copies of 
 the mofl: famous pieces, as the Fenus of Medicis, the Farnejian Hercules, 
 the Vatican Apollo, gladiators. Flora, &c. in plaflier. 
 
 In the cloyfl:er round the court are feveral fl:ones infcribed with He- Hebrew and 
 brew charafters ; the thumb of a Coloflus, and a great number of an- Roman in- 
 cient Roman infcriptions and ftatues. natues" "" 
 
 Count Marfigli was born in the year 1650, and deferves to have the Some account of 
 pleafure of fpending the clofe of his life at Bologna, with more tranqui-'''"'"''^^'^''^'*" 
 lity and comfort than is aftually the cafe, on acconnt of the learned 
 foundation mentioned above ; on which he has expended the greateft 
 part of his fortune, and bellowed all the fruits of his labour and appli- 
 cation. It feems the city has given him no fmall vexation by croffing Hh farthular 
 him in feveral particulars relating to his favourite academy, and have ^ifi"'''"^'- 
 laid an unreafonable reflraint upon him to prevent his regulating it ac- 
 cording to his own judgment. It is true, that as his public donations to 
 the academy, and his manner of applying them are ratified by the Pope's 
 Bull, it is no longer in his power to make any alterations. And this, 
 perhaps, has induced the city to think that there is no farther need of 
 carrying it fair with him, and that the feafon of flattery and refpeft is 
 now over. But were not gratitude utterly extindl among the Bolognefcy 
 certainly the magiftrates of the city would avoid thwarting and con- 
 temning a nobleman of fuch a public fpirit, which was fo fignally exerted 
 for the advantage of Bologna. Even fuppofing it true, that count Marfigli 
 were whimfical and obfl:inate, and that if a full fcope was given to his 
 will, he would launch out into many indifcretions in regulating an afi^air 
 to which the city has already contributed no fmall fum : yet does it net 
 deferve fome confideration, whether it were not better to connive at the 
 caprice of an old man, than to exafperate him with the mortification of 
 
 think-
 
 128 D L G N A. 
 
 thluklng his liberality ill-bcftowed ? This behaviour at tlie fame lime 
 gives the coimnonaUy room to fufped, that the harfa treatment of 
 Marfigli proceeds rather from private views than any concern for the 
 right management of the academy, G'c. It is known that Mai-Jj^Ii ob- 
 tained a grant from the Pope of the reverfion of fcvcral benefices, to the 
 yearly amount of fonie thoufands oi Jcudi, which on the deceafe of the 
 prefent incumbents (who being left in the quiet enjoyment cf tl^em 
 Theccu/eo/hisnTLwe x\o caufc to comphiin) are to devolve to his academy. This, in the 
 being hand, opinion of many people, is the fource of ail the animofity and rancor 
 againfc /yf(77y%// J feveral families in Bologna being incenfed to find them- 
 feives deprived of thefe places, which in their imaginations they had 
 made them.felves fure of. On this account Marfigli relzdes but feldom 
 at Bologiia; and thus the far greater part of his time is Ipent at a diftance 
 from the academy on which his heart has ever been fet. He re.urned 
 hither yelferday for the firft time after he had left the city, but with all 
 the weaknefs and infirmities to which old age is incident -f-. How highly 
 this gentleman has deferved of the republic of letters is well known, and 
 his natural hiftories of the Mediterranean and the Danube are lafling 
 Hhrefer-ve. proofs of it. His rcferve and extreme inodefty appeared confplcuous in 
 feveral particulars relating to this foundation ; efpecially in the flrift 
 orders he gave that his name fliould not be infcribed on any par.: of the 
 building, either within or on the outfide, nor on any of the curiofities 
 Frinting-houfc. whicli are depofited in it. The noble printing-houfe, which he added to 
 this foundation, is well furnilhed not only with Latin, Greek, and Hc- 
 hretv, but alio with Arabic, and other oriental types. He ordered it to 
 be called the printing-houfe cf St. I'homas Aquinas, and appointed the 
 Medals of theDomrtiican monks to be truflees of it *. The medals ftruck when this 
 academy. academy was founded, have on one fide the head of pope Clemejit XI. 
 and on the reverfe the edifice appropriated to this inftitution, with the 
 following legend : 
 
 Bonarum Artiiim cultui & ina'emento. 
 
 ' For the cultivation and improvement of arts and fciences.' 
 
 f He died in November 1 730, in the eightieth year of his age. Some make him two - 
 years older, and fay that he was born in the year 1648. 
 
 * All the deeds of gift, contracts, &c, that paffed betwixt count Marfigli and the 
 fenate of Bologna, and likewife betwixt the faid count and the Dominican monks, were 
 publifhed at Bohgna in the year 1728, with the following title : Jtti Legal'i per la Forula- 
 zaione deW Injiituta delle Scienze ed Arti Uherali per mernoria de gli Ordini Ecdefiajtici e Secolari 
 che compongotio la Citta di Bologna. Here it mufl be farther obferved that the academy 
 once known by the appellation of Academia degV Inquieti, is alio annexed to Marfigli's 
 foundation. Vide De Bononienfi Scieruiarnm i^ Artium In/lituto atque Academia Commentar. 
 Bonon. ann, I73i> 410. 
 
 c On
 
 B L G N A, 129 
 
 On the exergue are thefe words : 
 
 Injiitut. Scient. Bonofi. 
 ' The Academy of Sciences at Bologna.' 
 
 But not the leaft mention is made of count JS'IarfigU on thefe 
 medals. 
 
 Though Mar/igli was fo eminent for his knowledge and learning, and 
 was defervedly efteemed as an encourager and promoter of arts and 
 fciences, he makes but an indifferent figure when viewed in a military q-;.^ indiffemn 
 light : For in the affair of old Brijhc, in the year 1703, he brought anA«'f i-^hich 
 indelible blemifii upon his reputation. Count Arco was the governor of ^''r"'/'S'' '""/" 
 
 1 , 1 Tt/r r 1- 1 1 1 T- 7-1 ■• i:-it» regard ta 
 
 that place, and count Marjigli and colonel I' on Lgg were lieutenants old Brifac. 
 under him ; and tho' the emperor had fent pofitive orders to defend the 
 place againft the French, to the very laft extremity, yet it was furren- 
 dered without making the leaft refiftance ; and Marjigli was the firft who 
 voted for a capitulation. At the council of war held on account of this 
 mifcarriage, on the fourth day oi February 1704, at which general Von 
 Thimgen prefided, count Arco was condemned to lofe his head, which q , . \ jo' 
 fentence was accordingly executed -f-, tho' he had before ferved the cotdemnatkn. 
 emperor with diftinguifhed honour, and could fhew the fears of 
 eighteen wounds. 
 
 The French marfhal de ■ , who had been employed by his 
 
 mafter in conducting this fiege, told M. Forftner, one of tlie minifters of 
 ftate in Lorrain, That count Arco did not deferve to die as a traitor ; 
 but that his difobedience to the orders of his fovereign required an ex- 
 emplary puniiliment. Hov/ever, one may fee in count Arcos fate, the 
 fecret hand of divine juftice, as he had feveral times immediately before 
 the fiege, fecretly treated with the French about the furrender of this 
 fortrefs. 
 
 As to colonel Von Egg, the third commanding officer in Brifac, tho' Von Egg'i 
 he was deprived of all his employments, yet the emperor was pleafed to^"''"'"^^' 
 beftow on him a yearly penfion of a thoufand guldem *, on which he 
 lived privately with his family at Rodenbtirg on the Neckar, where I was 
 feveral times in his company lafi: year. The other officers, who figned 
 the capitulation, were cafhiered and fined ; however they were all after- 
 wards received into other regiments, excepting Von Egg. Prince Lewis 
 of Badin affirmed, ' That what chagrined him moft, was, to find all 
 * the officers were fo unanimous for a capitulation ; for (continued he) 
 
 f Vid. Rink, ijfc. * About ii6/. 13 j. 4^/. fterling. 
 
 Vol. III. S ' had
 
 I30 B L G N A. 
 
 ' had there been but n fingle enfign who had oppofcd It, I would have 
 ' given him a regiment.' 
 
 Marfgli was never accufed of want of courage j but he is thought to 
 ^rW.^//W j^ the foible of tco many of the Itnlians, and to have been influenced 
 
 upou this to .,,,,-'.,. ,.- 
 
 Marfigli. by envy ; fo that he uied many mdirecl means and artifices to form cabals, 
 and prevent a good underflianding betwixt count Arco and the garifon ; 
 by which meant^feveral good ineafures, that might ctherwife have taken 
 place, mifcarried. The fentence palled by the Court Martial on Marfigli, 
 v/as, that his fword fliould be broken as a mark of infamy, which was 
 immediately executed. But what fome have advanced, namely, that 
 the count had the alternative granted him either to lofe his head, or his 
 reputation ; and that with great joy he preferred his life to his honour 
 is a groundlefs afperfion *. In the year i 704, he publiflied a Vindica- 
 tion of himfelf, in which he does not deny his being acquainted with 
 the order for defending the place to the lafl: extremity; but alledges, 
 that this order was founded on a faffe report made to prince Lewis of 
 Baden., namely, that the town was fufficiently provided with men and 
 (lores ; whereas it was m fuch a condition that refiftance would have 
 been contrary to all the rules of war, as it would be only deliberately 
 throwing away the lives of the men in garrifon. This affertion he fup- 
 ports by feveral authorities and examples, as may be feen in the extradl 
 of his defence in the Efprit des Cours de U Europe, under that year. How- 
 far a commanding officer may deviate from the orders he receives, ac- 
 cording to the circumftances of his army, or thofe of the place in which 
 he commands, and what feverity may be ufed hy way of example, I 
 ihall not take upon me to determine. The Italians, to this very day, 
 treat the memory of the prince of Badai with great acrimony. But he 
 fufficiendy cleared himfelf of the imputation of feverity by fliewing the 
 neceflity of fuch a proceeding ; for he was even obliged to break his own 
 regiment, tho' the men were afterwards admitted into other corps. This, 
 
 * Such another report prevails about general Heiderfdcrff', and with no better founda- 
 tion ; it being certain, when he was informed of the emperor's order to change his fen- 
 tence of death into a deprivation of his honours, he anfwer'd, ' This is what I have not 
 '. defcrved.' What was laid to his charge, was, that he had not properly defended Hel- 
 (lelhvrg againft the French in the year 1692. After he was ftript of the infign'ia of the Teutonic 
 order, he was carried on a hurdle, which was driven by the executioner, thro' the whole 
 armv, while he contl-iually cried out. Rather death than this ! After undergoing this igno- 
 miny, his fword was broken by the common hangman, who flrucic him on the head 
 with the pieces of it, and then he was banifhed the country. He died not many years 
 fmce, at a convent at HUdvjham, and left a very amiable chara6ler behind him. Genei-al 
 SdmebeUn was alfo tried on the fame charge ; but he cleared himfelf, by proving that he 
 was'ignorant of tlic orders which had been fent for th^ defence of the place. Concerning; 
 t>dnchclhi, I fhall only add, that he was the author of the famous entertaining and moral 
 piece called Tabula Utopia:, 
 
 however.
 
 B L G N A, i3t 
 
 however. Is certain, that Marfigli% reputation will always fufter by it j 
 and that fiich a flain is not effaced by the pofl which afterwards pope 
 Clement XI. conferred on him, by appointing him general of thofe Marfigli Twr 
 wretched troops which he had picked up to act againft the e mperor "/"«/" V^''"/- 
 yojeph, in the difpute concerning Comacchio. For, by the confequence, it 
 appeared, that the command of fuch an "army did no great honour to the 
 General, nor was fuch a commander any credit to the papal See *. 
 
 But to return to my obfervaticns on the prefent flate of learning at Monti, proftf- 
 Bologna. Giiijeppe Monti, profeffor of Botany in the univerfity, and of ''^"^-^ '"""^' 
 anatomy in the Marfiglian academy, is now engaged in writing a natural 
 hiftory of this country ; which is the more impatiently expeded by the 
 public on account of the proofs he has already given of his accurate 
 knowledge in the fciences, (Sc. -f- 
 
 Zanoni., an apothecai-y at Bologna, who has publiOied a curious Her- Zanoni, n^a- 
 balift, embelliflied with feveral copper-plates, is pofleifed of a large coU'^^'^''^-*'' 
 ledion of natural curiofities. The abovementioned profeffjr Monti, has 
 a great variety of petrefadlions colleded in the neighbourhood of this ^^"'C/^'^'''^*'- 
 city : he has alfo publiflied a fmall but elaborate diffei tation on tlie head 
 of a fea-horfe, or fea-cow, dug out of the adjacent mountains, and [n^'^"'!""'-/'^'^ 
 which the (/entes molares are ftill to be feen j 
 
 Among other petrefadlions found in the little river Martignone, not inxDentah. 
 from Cajlello Crefpellano, as alfo in a brook near Cottibo, are i'tve.vs\Jiphun- 
 ,culi marini, which fome take to be the teeth of a kind of fiili; whereas 
 in reality they have neither the fmoothnefs nor hardnefs of a tooth, but 
 rather confift of a teftaceous fubftance which was once the recepticle of 
 a worm or fnail. Thofe commonly called the large Dent ales are white, 
 ftreaked longitudinally, and fomewhat crooked; the fmaller teeth, which 
 terminate in a flender point, and are of a reddifh colour, are called An- 
 tales. Both thefe fpecies are worn by the common people next their 
 fliin, by way of amulet or prefervative againft a difeafe called in Italian, 
 la Schiranzia or Squinanzia and angina, i. e. a quinfey or fore-throat. 
 Thefe are alfo found near Verona, Vicenza, &;c. near hiinebiirg in Ger- 
 many, and at Achiia in the dutchy of Bremen. - 
 
 * A farcaftical anagram on AdarfigU's name is here omitted, as fuch kind of wit is ex- 
 ploded in Enghvtd, tho' It ftill prevails in Germany. 
 
 t Among other pieces of his are Cainhgi Sth p'nmi rgri Bor.onleiifis Prcdromus, gramina ac h:- 
 jufmodi aff.nia compkthm, hi quo if forum Elymdgics, TSlctts charaSleri/Hc^, peadiares iifv.s Media., 
 Synnoytna J'e!eSlloya J'ummci thnexhibentur, ac infupcr proprih ohfervat'wniuns exotidfque gramimbus cadem 
 difpcni loaipletantur a Jojlpho Alonii, fp. Conftantinitm B'lfarrt, 1 7 19. tj\V.^\m{z Phntanim 
 varii indices ad v.fum dcinoiylrationum Bonmia Jiudiorian, publiflied in 1724, in which is a 
 plate of the phyfic garden. 
 
 X Dc monnmcntc diluviano nuper in ngro Bononienjt deteSfo Dijfertatio, in qua pertmdt^ ipj:t:s in- 
 undailonii vindicia ei flaiu terra antediluviana & pijUiluvlona defumia: exponuntur a Jojepho /i/Ionti, 
 Bononia, 1719, apud RoJJil^ focios, 
 
 S 2 ' On
 
 132 BOLOGNA. 
 
 Pinna. On the fummit of mount Blancano^ in z Jlrofum of marie, is found a 
 
 fpecies of fhells commonly called in Latin, Vinnce, and Ly the F)-emh, 
 Nacres, i. e, mother of pearl lliells, or Monies, i. e. mufcles, which, 
 from their fliape refembling a gammon of bacon, have alfo the name of 
 Pertm. While the fidi is alive the lower fliell ftrongly adheres to the 
 Largefiells. bottom of the fca. Some other large llicUs are alfo dug up near Ma- 
 donna del Saffo, Vv'hich lies about eleven Italian miles from Bologna ; 
 Denteslamis. and feveral of the Dentcs lamic-e are found near Poggivoli rojjiy or the 
 
 Red hills, 
 Peirrfi-d ffr, In and near the Martignme are alfo found petrefied filh. Fungi and 
 W other a>.i- p^Sfinilcs, which, on account of their thin fliell, are alfo called Membra- 
 '""''' null ; Conckites PedUnites, Pe£iimcidita Jlriati, 'Tiibulitce 'verniiculares reSli, 
 
 6? intcrii, majores & mino-es, &c. 
 
 In the brook dell' Inferno, as it is called, are found Conchita kviter per 
 longumjiriati, Conchita majores, PeBunciditce leviter Jiriati, &c. 
 The rivulet Mercad exhibits congeries of Conchita, Tellinitce, &c. 
 On the mountain called Monte dclle Grotte, are found 'Turbinate, Con- 
 chita, Echinita, Spimdce, PeBinites, &c. 
 
 In other parts of the territory of Bologna are found fragments of the 
 OJlrcita Pohleptoginglymi, the Oflreian imhricatum & jidcatum of diffe- 
 rent fizes, afli-coloured oyfter-fliells, Conchita^ bivalves ; Conchita turbi- 
 nati, PeSlines bivalves, PeBiniles flriati, PeSIuncidi, PeSluncidita j Chama 
 leves, bivalves Glychcimerides ; Chama ingentes margaritijera polygin- 
 ghma bivalves, as Lifter in his hiftory of fliells terms them ; Chama ob- 
 longa leves et leviter Jtriata ; Dendrita, Lignum JoJJile et petrcfaSltim, or 
 foffile petrefied wood, and Gagates or Gangetes, which is alio called Lapis 
 fyJ-^iiSarda. ^hraciiis. Among petrefied fiflies the Sarda * is frequently found here. In 
 the yellow fand, which abounds in the territories of Bologna, and derives 
 its colour from a yellow kind of earth, are found great numbers o{ Cornua 
 Ammonis, and other fhells, many of which are fo fmall as hardly to be 
 diftinguiflied without the help of a microfcope. 
 Of the Bono- I muft not here omit the well known Lapis Bononienfis. This is a fmall 
 mzxipnc, a ^^^g pf ^ Ijaht grev colour, and irreeular fliape. It is full of fulphu- 
 
 hnd of phof- ■ V i r y " i- i iii 
 
 thoru!. reous particles, and or a lax texture, yet heavier than would be con- 
 
 ceived from its fize, and fparkles like 7'alc. It is found in feveral parts 
 of Italy, but efpecially in the diflricl of Bologna, towards the Appenine 
 mountains, and" on mount Paderno which ftands about five Italian 
 miles from Bologna. They are mofl: commonly found after heavy rains 
 among the earth wartied off from the neighbouring mountains. This 
 Hone is of the fize of a walnut, and has no lucid appearance in the dark 
 
 * This is a fmall fifti well known in the Mediterranean, and called by the French, Sar- 
 dine. It is not unlike a fprat, but Ibmething larger, 
 
 until
 
 B L G N A. 133 
 
 until it undergoes a particular calcination, by which It acquires the pro- 
 perty of imbibing, when expofed for a few minutes to the fun-beams, 
 fuch a quantity of light, that it afterwards fliines in the dark from 
 eight to fifteen minutes like a glowing coal, but without any fenfible 
 heat. This experiment may be repeated at pleafure; and it is fufficient, 
 if the ftone be laid only in the open air in the day-time v/herc the fun 
 does not fhine ; for the heat of the fun is apt to make it crumble to 
 pieces. If the ftone be well prepared, the light of a candle is fuflicient 
 to give it this luminous quahtyj but it is not affeded by moon-fliine. 
 It retains its luftre, even tho' it be put in water, and preferves this pro- 
 perty for three or four years j and then it may be calcined anew, but it 
 never perfedly recovers the fame refulgency that it acquired at the firft 
 calcination. 
 
 In the fourth article of the Phihfophical TrmijaBmis of the Royal 
 Society 2A Loiidon for the month of Jajiuary ibbb, it is faid, that only a 
 certain ecclefiaftic had the art of preparing this ftone, and that the fecret 
 died w^ith him. But this fuppofed lofs was happily retrieved by M. Hom- 
 berg, a celebrated German naturalift, who, on his return from his travels 
 in Italy, brought with him a great many of thefe ftones, and calcined 
 two hundred of them fo many different ways, that at laft he found 
 out the fecret. His method was as follows. He firft fcrapcd the ftone In preparation. 
 all over till it appeared exadtly like T^alc ; then having foaked it throuThlv 
 in brandy, and inclofed it in a pafte or cruft made of other ftones of the 
 fame kind pulverized, he calcined it in the fire, or a fmall furnace. After 
 this, all the powder of the cruft in which the ftone was inclofed is taken 
 off. Both the powder and the ftone, when brought into the dark fioni 
 the open air, make a luminous appearance; and the former, if kept in a 
 ftrong and well ftopt phial, when expofed to the air, imbibes the light, and 
 if fprlnkled on piftures and letters illuminates them in the dark. In prepar- 
 ing the pafte the ftone muft be pulverized in a brafs mortar; for a glafs or 
 marble mortar is very detrimental to the virtue of this kind oi Phcfphonis ; 
 an iron mortar particularly is worfe than any other. For this information 
 wc are obliged ioLemery, who in his Coiirs deCljymie, defcribes at large the 
 whole procefs of preparing this ftone, which, he candidly acknowledges, 
 he learned from Hojuberg himfelf. I have been afilired, that in calcin- 
 ing this ftone over a fire, as it muft be frequently turned, the operator 
 muft take care not to hang his head over the efliuvia arifing from it. The 
 uncalcined Lapis Bononicnfn is fold at Bologna at a Taolo * per pound ; 
 but a prepared piece of the bignefs of a dried fig cofts two or three P<Z(p//, 
 or more. This phenomenon is generally attributed to tlie fulphur with 
 which the Lapit Bononienjh abounds ; for when it is frefli calcined the 
 
 * Six-pence fterling. 
 4 fmell
 
 134 BOLOGNA. 
 
 fmell of it is an evident proof of this. Befides, its evaporations are 
 known to tinge filver : However, fulphur cannot be productive of any 
 light or effulgence, unlefs it be previoufly purged from all heterogeneous 
 particles ; and this is done by fire. Day-light, which is nothing but 
 the finefi: rays of the igneous matter emitted by the fun, kindles the 
 fulphur on the furface of the flone, when expofed to the open air, as fire 
 does common fuel. Upon this fuppofition, Lemery directs that this ftone 
 be calcined in a moderate fire, and obferves, that if the heat be too 
 flow the fulphur is not carried to the furface of the ftone ; and on the 
 contrary, if it be too intenfe,' the fulphur is too much diflipated and 
 evaporates. 
 Phofphorus The phofphoriis Baldiiiniis, invented by Baudo'vin, a Frenchman, who 
 Balduinus. publiflied an account of it in 1675, under the title oi Phofphorm Herrne- 
 tiiis, without acquainting the world with the fecret of preparing it, was 
 nothing elfe but an imitation of the Lapis Bononien/is. Baudovins Mag~ 
 ?iet of Light, as he pompoufly ftyled it, was nothing but a compound 
 made of Englijh chalk and aquafortis, or fpirit of nitre. 
 Burmn^Phof- ^ot long after, in the year 1677, °"^ Brand, a German chemift at 
 phorusf Ha?tibi{rg, found out the fecret of making burning Phofphoriis, and that 
 by chance (to which we owe many curious inventions) whilft he was 
 endeavouring to extradt a liquid from human urine in order to tranfmute 
 filver into gold. 
 
 Runkel c^Lvncdi the invention ftill farther, and at length it was brought 
 to fuch perfecftion, that at prefent a burning or incendible phofphorus 
 may be made from vegetable or animal fubflances, when calcined with 
 allum. This is beft kept in water, and emits light when expofed for a 
 little while to the open air. I myfelf have feen experiments of this kind 
 exhibited by Homberg, and Lemery, the fon. 
 Flame from Befides this Phofphorus fulgurnns, feveral other fimilar difcoveries have 
 fwo ttquon \yQ^^ made, as for example : By mixing two cold fluids, as the acid 
 fpirits of a mineral and an oil extracted from vegetables, flame has been 
 PI rio-os produced. I fiiall on another occafion fpeak of the luminous Barome- 
 Sraaragdinus. ter, and a kind of phofphorus, which may be called S,maragdinus. 
 Sea-animah, \ havc already given an account of fome fea-animals that emit an ef- 
 7heiJk"' '" fulgence in the dark, in defcribing the Dattali del Mare of Arcona : And 
 I would recommend it to the enquiries of naturalifts, whether this 
 fhining be owing to the fea-falt, or to the refinous and fulphureous 
 particles with which the fea-watei* is impregnated ; I have often ob- 
 Racliancy in fcrved at fca in a dark night corrufcations not unlike ignited fparks, 
 fca-'water. caufcd by the collificn of the waves, the motion of the fhip, and efpe- 
 cially of the oars : and if a perfon make water from the deck of alhip 
 into the lea in a dark night, a multitude of luminous fparks are leen to 
 
 rebound.
 
 MODE NA. .135 
 
 rebound, as it were, from the furface of the water. But both thefe 
 fcintillations are obferved only in dry weather ; and poflibly the caufe 
 is to be looked for in the motion of the filine fpirits. 
 
 The Indole, or glow-worms, common in Italy and other countries, is Ludola, or 
 to be claifed among the natural phofphori. Thefe infers appear ■ mofl: fj)^^7J7*/v.'' 
 luminous in rainy weather ; as rotten wood, which is another kind phorm. 
 of natural phofphorus, is known to emit light in the dark, if it be 
 moift. 
 
 Bologna, April 2\, ^73°' 
 
 LETTER LXVI. 
 
 Account of Modena and Reggio. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 r 
 
 "^ HE country betwixt Bologna and Modena is very pleafant, fertile, 
 
 and well cultivated, and abounds in vineyards. The inhabitants Hotv grapes 
 have a method of preferving ripe grapes, from the vintage-time till the "''^ t^'M'ved. 
 month of Aiigufl in the following year, by keeping them in little rooms 
 well fecured againft the external air and the light of the fun ; and they 
 never go into thefe ftore-rooms but with one fmall candle, and that as fel- 
 dom as pofTible. The bunches are not laid upon the floor, but hang 
 feparate, being tied to a great number of fmall flicks ; and when a fingle 
 grape has the leaft appearance of decay or rottennefs, it is plucked off, 
 to prevent the reft from the infedlion. 
 
 The horned cattle of this country are very large, and generally white. ^^"^'/^ honed: 
 Six or eight oxen are here put to a carriage, with a great number q^'^^"^^ '^"''' 
 bells hanging about them, which make no difagreeable nolfe. The de- 
 fign of this mufic, as I am informed, is to chear the creatures under 
 their labour, and to give notice at a diftance on the road that fuch a car- 
 riag'e is cominjj. 
 
 Not far from the city of Bologna the river Reno * croftes the road, j^"'^^"'^'''' 
 Though this river, during the greateft part of the year, has but a fmall '^^ '^"*'' 
 current; yet there is a bridge confifting of two-and-twenty arches, which 
 is four hundred and feventy paces long, and kvzn broad, built over it, 
 
 * Sil. lial. lib. viii. Parv'ique Bononla RJimi, 
 
 4 In
 
 136 
 
 M D E N A. 
 
 In the year 1530, when Charles V, pafled it in great folemnity juft be- 
 fore his coronation, it broke under the multitude of people who attended 
 in the procelTion, which occaiioned great damage, befides the lofs of 
 many lives. This misfortune fomc prophetic genius's of that time looked 
 upon as a certain omen that Charles V. was to be the lafl emperor who 
 would receive his crown from the hands of the Pope. 
 Place where It was not far from Bologna tliat the Triumviri, M. Lcpidus, M. Anto- 
 ^^^ llii "" '^^'"■^' ''"'^ ^* Oolavius, formed that alliance which afterwards proved fo 
 orta'vius en. bloody in its confequences. Plutarch, in his Life of Cicero, c. 67. and 
 toed into an j,-j ^Y\2A o'i Antojiy, c. 24. fays, that the Triumviri had this interview on 
 a fmall ifland ; to which Dio, lib. xlvi. adds, that the ifland was formed 
 by a little river (probably the Reno) near Bologna. However, there is no 
 river in the neighbourhood of this city that forms an ifland exacftly 
 agreeable to the defcription given us by this hiftorian ; for by an ifland is 
 now always underfl:ood a place which is generally furrounded with water. 
 But whether this ifland was near Bagncto, at the conflux of the L^vino 
 and the Reno, or at Bagno, where the little flream Dojio empties itfelf 
 into the Reno ; or laflily, whether it was in the neighbourhood of the 
 village called Treio di S. Gicvaimi, it is not eafy to determine. 
 FortUrbano. About fourteen Italian miles from Bologtia, near this road, lies Fort 
 Vrhano, which confift:s of five baftions, and was built by pope Urban VIII. 
 as a key to the ecclefiaflical ftate on this fide. A little farther on we 
 ferried over the little river Panaro, about five Italian miles on this fide 
 Modena. This river ferves as a boundary to divide the dutchy of Mo- 
 Martial in- (fena from the Bolognefe. On a pillar erefted in this place is the follow- 
 /criptmn. jj^g infcription, which would better become a warlike monarch, than 
 the head of the church of Chrift, who faid to his difcipies, ' The princes 
 
 * of the Gentiles exercife dominion ; but it fliall not be fo among 
 
 * you.' Matt. xx. 25, 26. 
 
 Viator, 
 
 Hie ejl limes agri Bononienfis 
 
 Et Ecclefiajlicce ditionis initium, 
 
 ^od, lit 
 
 Vrbanus VIII. Pont. Max. 
 
 Tedium fartumque redderet, 
 
 Arce mioiiti [jimd, ut mox videbis, excitata 
 
 Sic Pontijicice Majejlati, Jic fubditorum fecuritati confuluit, 
 
 Ut exinde clavibus imperterrite 
 
 Ovilis Domini ci gcreret ciiram, 
 
 1 Rt gladio truculent arcerct luporum rabiem. 
 
 n*. 
 
 Traveller,
 
 M D E N A. 137 
 
 ' Traveller, here thou feeft the boundary of the Bolognefc territories, 
 ' and the entrance into the ecclefiaftical ftate ; for the defence and fe- 
 
 * curity of which his Holinefs pope Urbafi VIII. has built, as thoa fhalt 
 
 * prefentjy fee, a very ftrong fortrefs ; who thus at once confulted the 
 ' dignity of the papal majefty and the tranquility of his fubjecls, that 
 ' he may henceforth intrepidly protedt the Ihcepfold of the Lord with 
 ' the keys committed to him, and drive away the ravenous wolves from 
 
 * the flock with the deftroying fword.' 
 
 Modena is a very ancient city, and frequently mentioned in the Roma}:Moicm. 
 hiftory. When Dea'us Brutus was befieged in this city, Hirtiiis made 
 ufe of tame pigeons (which by hunger he had trained up for fuch a kr- M,jjages car- 
 vice) as meflengers *, to give the befieged advice of his intentions, zvid'^'^^'^f'^^"'"- 
 to receive intelligence from Decius Brutus on their return. The memorv 
 of this device is perpetuated even to this very dav at Moacna, where 
 pigeons are taught to carry letters to a place appointed, and bring back 
 anfwers. According to the relations of travellers, the fame is pradtiftd 
 Til Aleppo, and other cities in the Levant ■\. Of what benefit thefc 
 letter-carriers proved to the city of Leydcn\, when hard prefTed.by the 
 Spaniards, is fufficiently known from the hiftory of the fixteenth cen- 
 tury. 
 
 The city of Mcdc'fia boafts of having given birth to fcveral eminent ^w««/ /^r- 
 perfons, among whom they reckon Sigoni the civilian and hiftorian,^"''-"""''^--'?'^ 
 Fallcpi the phyfician, from whom certain tubes || in the human body de- 
 rive their name : Corregio the painter ; the poets Alc[fandro TaJJoni, and 
 Ttfii ; Gicopo Barocd da Figiiola the archited j cardinal Sadoleti, and the 
 imperial general MontccuciV. 
 
 In the cathedral of Modena they fi:iew a very \incommon trophy of the 
 valour of the inhabitants, namely, a wooden bucket with iron hoops, 
 which the Modeneje, for what purpofe I know net, brought away from 
 Bolcgna, and keep as a memorial of their expedition to the capital city 
 
 * Pl'in. Hijl. Nat. c. 73. Magnis in rebus fuere int crnmL a {co\um\x) ^id vaUnin 
 
 bf vigil obftdlo, (itqne (tiarn retia amne pratenta profuere Antonino per colvm eunU rnvtio? 'In 
 
 ' affairs of great importance (pigeons) were made ufe of for meflengers. What did the 
 
 * trenches, the Centincls, and even the fnares laid acrofs the river avail Anti):\:, while a 
 ' courier made his way through the air ?' 
 
 + That Mahomet alfo made pigeons fubfcrvient to his impofiurcs. appears from the 
 fcveral hiftories of his life ; as alfo from Ximenes, in hiji. Arab. Elnmcei:, inhi/l. Same. ise. 
 
 J Thefe pigeons, on account of their good fervices, when they died were {luffed, and 
 are ftill kept in the council-houfe at Leydcn. "Janus Douza's pigeon, which was one of thefc 
 ■winged expreffes, has further been honoured with two poetical panegyrics in Latins and 
 Greek by the famous Daniel Heinf.us. The great fervice done by pigeons at Haerlem in the 
 year 1573, at Ziriekfee in 1575, and Gertrudenherg in 1593, are related by Strada, Mete~ 
 rano, and other hiftorians of thofe times. \ Tubtv Fullopianie. 
 
 Vol. III. T of
 
 1^5 
 
 Taffoni'^ 
 
 poem. 
 
 La Secchia 
 
 rapita, or the 
 rape of the 
 buiket. 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 Jefuit'j 
 
 church. 
 
 Theatine 
 church. 
 
 St. Dominic' 
 
 church. 
 
 St. Marga- 
 letV church. 
 
 M D E N A. 
 
 of their enemies. The war was originally occ^fioned by the Bologncfe re- 
 fufl!ig to reitore the towns o^ San-Ccfario and Nonantola according to th? 
 decifion of the emperor Frederick II. who had been appointed arbitrator 
 or the difference: upon this, the emperor, out of refentment for th^ 
 indignity offered, fent his natural fon Henci^ king of Sardim'a, to the 
 afliftance of the Modenefe, whofe unhappy fate has been already taker\ 
 notice of. /is Gemijiianus was the patron faint of Mociena, and Petro7}im 
 that of Bologna, the contending parties were called Getninimit and Petro- 
 niani. Alejfandro Tajfoni has ludicroufly defcribed the whole courfe of 
 this war, in his moft ingenious poem entitled La Secchia rapita ; and 
 to heighten the burlefque, he makes the Modenefe give rife to that bloody 
 war by ftealing this bucket. 
 
 It was from this Modenefe poet that the celebrated Boileau took the 
 hint for the hutrin. The only fault in Tajfonii burlefque poem is a want 
 of delicacy in fome of his expreffions, which are fometimes fo grofs as 
 to offend a chafte ear. The bucket that has been thus immortalized 
 hangs in one of the towers of the cathedral by an iron chain ; to come 
 at it, a perfon muft go through no lefs than fix doors, and give a hand- 
 fome gratuity. 
 
 In this church the remains of St. Gemiriiatius are depofited. Here 
 is alfo a piece of painting by Guido, reprefenting Chrifl in the temple, 
 which well deferves a traveller's notice. Before the church are feveral 
 low and (lender pillars belonging to the building, which are fupported by 
 large figures of lions, (£c. 
 
 - The yf/i///5 church is extremely beautiful, and the roof of it is painted 
 from a defign of father Bojji. The altars are very elegant, and behind 
 the high altar is the hiflory of St. Bartholomeiv, painted in feveral capital 
 pictures by Procaccini. 
 
 The T'hcatine church is remarkable for its high altar, which is finely 
 decorated with columns and ftatues. The choir is painted with fine 
 pieces in frefco, reprefenting the life and martyrdom of St. Vincentiiis, 
 by Galati. 
 
 They are now rebuilding St. Tiominic\ church ; and by what may be 
 conjedlured from the Capello del Rofario, a maflierly white marble ftatue 
 of the Madonna, and the great number of pillars of white and blue 
 marble to be feen there, it will be a fplendid and magnificent edifice. 
 
 St. Margaret's church belongs to theDominicans. It exhibits fome good 
 ftatues of terra cotta by Begarelli, reprefenting our Saviour, two ufurers, 
 and fome of the apoftles. A much greater objedt of curiofity is that 
 of the Virgin (landing at the crucifixion, and fupported by the two other 
 Marys, of the fame materials with the reft, but far exceeds them in 
 exprefBon, ^c. being made and painted hy Cqrregio..
 
 M D E N A. 139 
 
 In the colleg;e of St. Car/o Borromco, between feventy and eighty cJ^eA 5/. 
 young nobltnicn are maintained, and inftrudted in the fcicnces and aca- ^^^^J^] 
 demical exercifes. In the hall are the portraits of celebrated perfons 
 who received their education at this college. 
 
 The ducal palace will be an elegant Itruclure ; but at prefent it is not ^'"-'"^ f"^"'^- 
 above half finilhed. In the pafiiige leading to the palace-church are 
 painted all the faints who were of the ducal family ; and among the reft 
 thehiftoryof St. £^^/r/x is to be feen there, who is faid always to prtdiA PreJiaion of 
 the death of every one of the ducal family by damping with the ioo\, the death of 
 on the floor. The cieling of moil of the apartments are finely painted "'alfaml. 
 in frefco. Here are alfo other valuable paintings, particularly the fol- Fine painting'. 
 lowing, viz. A capital piece, rcprefcnting a peftilence j 7itiafi with 
 his wife and fon p^iying their devotions to the virgin Merry ; a MadofiJia 
 fitting, attended by four faints, all as big as the life, by Antonio Corregio ; . 
 the virgin Mary, with St. George, and a groupe of little boys, by the 
 fame hand ; the virgin Mary attended byleveral faints, and her afilimp- 
 tion, both by Liiigi Caracci ; Paolo Veroncfe and his family proftrate he- 
 fore the virgin Maty and her divine intant ; a capital piece reprefenting 
 Abrahams, intended facrifice of his fon, by Del Sarto ; ten pictures by 
 Giulio Romano ; the adoration of the eaftern Magi, and the marriage at 
 Ca7ia, by Paolo Veroneje ; a moil: beautiful landfcape painted on copper, 
 and a night-piece, by Corregio, reprefenting Mary Magdalen lying on CorregioV 
 the ground in the wildernels and reading in a book. The frame of this "'5*''^''"- 
 piece is fet with rubies, amethyfts, turquoifes, and other gems. St. Roch 
 diftributing alms, is by Armibal Caracci, and formerly flood in the ^cola 
 di S. Rocco at Reggio ; but was given the duke of Modena in exchange 
 for a good copy. Here alfo is a pidure of St. George, by DoJJ'o da Fer- 
 rara. I have often obferved pidures placed together on account of the 
 equality of their fize, though the fubjedts of them were extremely im- 
 proper, which is the cafe here ; a large piece reprefenting Bacchanals is 
 placed near another of our Saviour's crucifixion. But that piece, which La Notte di 
 tor its excellence I fhould have mentioned firft, is La Notte di Corregio, Corregio. 
 or Corregio'?, incomparable night-piece, reprefenting the infant Jefiis lying 
 in his mother's lap. As Corregio s excellence was more confpicuous in the 
 colouring and chiaro ofcuro, than in defigning, it muft be allowed that 
 in this piece he has fliewn the utmoft effort of his fkill. The infant's 
 body is reprefented as it were femi-pellucid, and emits fuch a radiancy, 
 as to throw a proper light on the objeftsthat are near it ; and indeed this 
 incomparable piece is never viewed without the higheft admiration and 
 pleafure. It was painted in the year 1522, ^nd at firft was fold for no 
 
 T 2 more
 
 140 
 
 l,9ohing ^htfs 
 cl.fet. 
 
 Qardtn. 
 Stablts. 
 
 Library. 
 
 Moiu Miran- 
 dola came to 
 the duke of 
 Modena. 
 
 M D E N A. 
 
 more than two hundred Reggio lire, or livres *, which according to the 
 prefeiit courfe of money, are not much more than eight Loui$-d'or$ •^. 
 
 ' Mctelli has publifhed a copper-plate of this pidure on a flieet of royal 
 paper, which Roffi fells at Rome for ten Bqjochi j:. Corregio's paintings 
 are the more valued, becaufe he has not left a great number of pieces 
 behind him ; for he beflowed a great deal of time on his works, and 
 died in the forty-fecond year of his age. 
 
 The looking-glafs clofet is filled with the portraits of the Z);<fC7/ family. 
 A connoifibur fees with coi^cern the fine cicliiig-piects in this and fevtral 
 other rooms here damaged by cracks and fiffiues. 
 
 The garden is at fome diftance from the palace. It has an orangery, 
 but exhibits nothing very remarkable or curious, no more than the flables 
 that ftand near it. 
 
 In this part of the city likewife the duke's flate-coaches are alfo kept j 
 fome of which are ornamented with fine fculpture ; others are of a won- 
 derful largenefs, being made a great many years fince. 
 
 The ducal library is under the care of Muraton, who was formerly 
 Ambrofian library-keeper at Milan, and is well known in the republic of 
 letters by his Antichita Efienfi ed Italiafie, the firft part of which was 
 publifhed in folio at Mode/ia in the year ijij ; and for his large collec- 
 tion of the 5'cr//>/'or« 7/<z//c/ ||. The manufcripts oi t.h.& Modefia library 
 are enumerated by Montfaucon, in his Diaj-ium Italicum, p- 'i^i. 
 
 The duke of Modena has been in poflcflion of the principality of 
 Mirandola ever fince the year 1710; Francefco Maria Pica, the lafl 
 prince, having forfeited it by being guilty of felony. An offer indeed 
 was made this unhappy prince that he fhould be reftored to his princi- 
 pality, on paying a fine of an hundred thou'and ducats, and on condi- 
 tion that he fhould marry a daughter of Charles Maximilian Von Thurn, 
 fleward of the houfhold to the emprefs-dowager Elcanora. As this lady 
 was maid of honour to the emprefs, her majefly zealoufly promoted 
 fuch an advantageous match; but by delaying the affair, and fome 
 failure in the immediate payment of the hundred thoufand ducats, the 
 imperial exchequer, in the year 1710, receded from thefe conditions. 
 
 * About eight guineas. 
 
 t See Rjchwdfon's Treatife on Painting and Sculpture. 
 
 X Seven-pence halfpenny. 
 
 [I The life of this great man has been written not only by feveral Italians, but by Mr. 
 Rath/ef and Mr. Btuder, two Gerinan writers. His Scriptares rer. Ital. in twenty-feven vo- 
 lumes, and his Thefaurm veterum infmptionum in four are lafling monuments of his judg- 
 ment and application ; as is his invaluable work of the hiflory of Italy, By the laft ac- 
 counts from Modena we are informed, that Muratori being in a very advanced age, has 
 left his fight, of which he had made fuch an excellent ufe, 
 
 and:
 
 M D E N A. 141 
 
 and fit (n:e fold the principality oi Mirandohi for a million o? guldens'^ 
 to the duke of Modeita, who was inverted with it by the emperor on the 
 12th o^ March, 171 1. On this occafion the duke of Mcdma, in order 
 to raife money for fuch a large purchafe, propofed to fome perfons in 
 Gcr77tany a loan of two hundred thoufand guldens on a mortgage of the 
 territory of Mirandola. That he might cany his point, his agents were 
 for making the people believe, that the annual revenues of M/r^Wc/^ 
 were no lefs than a hundred thoufand Spanifo piftoles ■+• ; but I queftion The duke's 
 whether Modcna and Mirandola both together, after the neceffary deduc- '■'^'^^»««'-'- 
 tions, amount to more ; though it is certain that the duke draws very 
 confiderable fums from the tax on mills, monopolies, and farms, with 
 other imports. 'John Frederick, the fecond fon oi Rinaldo the '^^t'icx\\. uifferenct he- 
 duke, lived fome years ztViejina, and during that time endeavoured to ti^-ixt the tvia 
 create a fufpicion of his brother the hereditary prince Franccjco Maria, on^'^'"'"' 
 -account of his marriage w^ith Charhtta, the duke regent's (iaughter, in 
 hopes of gaining the emperor's confent for difmembering the principa- 
 lity of M/V^Wc/^ from the dutchy of M(7i7t7/rt'. This prince, efpecially 
 in the year 1722, pufhed the affair with all poflible vigour; and to harten 
 the accomplifliment of his defire, is faid to have propofed a marriage 
 with a princefs of the Sobiejki family, who is related to the emperor ; 
 but all his meafures were fruftrated, and he ended his days in the year 
 1727, in the twenty-feventh year of his age. The former depofed 
 prince of the houfe of Fica betook himfelf to Spain, where, in regard 
 to his birth, perfonal accomplirtiments, and zeal for that crown, he was 
 made mafter of the horfe. 
 
 The animofity betwixt the two brothers, as related above, is not the ^^ '^^ ^f- 
 only difturbance that happened in the ducal family. The father's rigid 'dllTand her 
 treatment of the hereditary prince, which was imputed to the violent ditaryprime. 
 counfels of Sahatico a Faduan, his prime minifter, has been the occafion 
 of great feuds. The fame perfon is alfo charged with opprefiing the 
 fubjefts, and other iniquitous meafures, which raifed great murmurs 
 and complaints. At laft fuch high words partTed betwixt the hereditary 
 prince and Sahatico, that the latter thought it advifable to make the 
 beft of his way to his own country. Since this minifter has withdrawn 
 frequent endeavours have been ufed for rertoring a harmony betwixt the 
 duke and his fon ; and an outward reconciliation has been effeded ; but the 
 inward miftruft, ufual in fuch cafes, after an open rupture, ftill fubfifts ; 
 the father keeping his court at Modena, and the fon living with his prin- 
 cefs at Reggio. 
 
 • ioo,oi6/. 13J. t 89,583/. 7^. fterling. 
 
 France
 
 T42 M D E N A. 
 
 htcycft cf France is unwillinj^ that Italy Hiould be parcelled out into petty fo- 
 icoani to the vereigiitics, but rather willies that it were gradually united again ; ima- 
 julian States, gining, that by the (ub-divifion of the feveral principalities the emperor 
 has an opportunity of enlarging his power there. This is certain, that 
 in the wars of Ittily, the emperor knows very well how to draw confi- 
 derable fuccours from the Italian princes, and never fails putting them in 
 mind of the fervices they owe to the Roman empire, by virtue of their 
 High pirtoi- fieffs. But this is alfo highly nccefTary, and without fuch memento's 
 'iulia.xfi-nwes '^^y might poihbly think that they were independent fovereigns, and on 
 a level with the German electors. The ceremonial which they think to 
 procure for themfelves and their envoys at feveral foreign courts, does 
 not a little favour their ambitious views. This brings to my mind what 
 happened to M. Hiddenbcrg, envoy from the eledlor of Brunfivick-Lune- 
 hiirg to the Imperial court in the year 1698, when he was at the courts 
 of Modena, and of fome other Italian princes, to treat about the marriage 
 Pretended, -hht °^ '^^^ cmprefs WUhelmina Amelia. Theduke of — ■ — , fpeaking of the Ita- 
 ofnona^^^A.han princes, obferved, that the German eleftors and princes were indeed 
 poffeffed of great power and large revenues; but that xh^Italian princes were 
 more abfolute in their dominions. In proof of which affertion he alledged, 
 that an appeal lay from the German eledlors and princes to the emperor, 
 whereas it was not fo with the Italian princes, who judged with ap- 
 peal. To this M. Huldenberg replied. That his highnefs was mifin- 
 formed in this affair, with regard to the German eleifturs, and mentioned 
 feveral inferior princes of the empire who are invefted with the 'Jus de 
 7ion adpellando in cafes that do not exceed a certain fum; adding, he 
 could not apprehend why an appeal might not be lodged from the 
 decree of an Italian prince to the aulic council, or his imperial majefty. 
 The duke infifiied that no inftance of this kind could be produced. After 
 dinner M. Hiddenberg took occafion to relume the fubjeft with the 
 prime minifler, with whom he was very intimate, and to afk him whe- 
 ther there was not an example of fuch an appeal to the emperor ? 
 Upon the minifter's anfwering in the negative, M. Huldenburg farther 
 afked him, if the Italian princes had found means to hinder complaints 
 from being brought againft them by way of appeal, as no law, in this 
 cafe, could tie up the hands of the imperial court ? The minifier Was 
 filent for fome time ; but at laft, upon M. Huldenberg?, urging him far- 
 ther, he gave him the wink, and whifpered him, Facciamo tic taCy 
 tic tac, intimating, that they caufed thofe perfons who threatned to 
 miake fuch appeals to be affaffinated. Upon which M. Hiddenberg 
 fmiled, and faid, ' That this was an extraordinary privilege, indeed, and 
 • for which the Italian princes had little reafon to value themfelves 
 ' above the eledtors of Germany,' &c. * 
 
 But
 
 MODE N A. 143 
 
 But to return to Modena. This city is fuppofed to contain thirty-five 
 thoufand inhabitants : but this computation feems to exceed the truth j 
 and, indeed, it is not at all credible. Before mofl of the houfes there 
 are portico's or cloyfters, as in Bologna, under which a perfon may walk 
 fecure from rain and the heat of the fun : However, on account of their 
 unequal height and breadth, they are no great ornament to the city. 
 Here is but little trade ftirring ; and though a great number of mafks (in 
 making of which Modena excels) be exported to Venice and other 
 places, yet fo inconfiderable an article can contribute but little to the 
 profperity of the city. 
 
 The foil of the country about Modena is of a fingular conftitution, and Particular pro. 
 . well deferves the notice of the curious naturalilt. It gives no fmall weight//''^/ "/'''' 
 to the opinion that petrefaftions are chiefly owing to the univerfal de-"'" * 
 luge. In every part, not only of the city, but of the adjacent country, 
 plenty of good water is to be found; only before it can be attained, the 
 ground muft be dug to the depth of fixty-three feet. For the firft: four- 
 teen feet are found large ftones, which feem to be the remains of paved 
 ftreets or roads, and buildings ; and from hence there is fufficient reafon 
 to conclude that the foundation of this city was anciently much lower 
 than it is at prefent. In the next place is found zjiratum of hard and 
 compadt earth proper to build upon. This feems to be a kind oi Terra 
 •uirginea, or Virgiji inoidd, which has never been difturbed by digging, 
 though fuch kind of earth is looked upon as the beft foundation for the 
 largeft ftruftures. Under this is z Jl ration of black marfhy earth, in which 
 are found a great many fea-weeds, the leaves, branches, and trunks of 
 trees in great abundance ; and, at the depth of twenty-four feet, unde- 
 cayed ears of corn have been dug up. The next is a Jlratum of chalk, 
 which begins at the depth of twenty-eight feet. As foon as the labourers 
 find this they are fure of being no longer molefled with the muddy 
 water breaking in upon them. This chalky jlratum is about eleven feet 
 deep, and very full of fliells. It terminates at the depth of thirty-nine 
 feet, after which follows a moorifh or muddy foil two feet deep, in 
 which are found rufhes, leaves of plants, and branches of trees. Next 
 to this is a cretaceous fir atwn, which is eleven feet deep, and confequently 
 terminates at the depth of fifty-two feet from the furface of the earth. 
 This is fucceeded by a marfhy or muddy foil, refembling the former, of 
 two feet in depth ; and then follows zjlratutn of chalky earth, but not fo 
 deep. The next to this is another /Ira turn of marfi:iy foil, or turf, under 
 which is found a foft fand intermixt with gravel. This appears to be the 
 original Jlratum laid by nature; in which are found fea-fliells and other 
 indications of an inundation or deluge. T\\\% (Iratum is very firm; and by 
 only boring a little way into it, a great plenty of good water immediately 
 
 fpringB.
 
 144 M D E N A. 
 
 fprings up, and foon fills iVr. well to a proper height. No trunks of 
 
 trees are found m the chalky jirata ; but they are met with only in the 
 
 Strata, w ««- rnardiy or turty loll *. It wii: not be amifs to fubjoin here the different 
 
 •^''"'"'y^n''''!/?r(j/^'^ of the earth, and their arrangement, as found in digging a well 
 
 d'ara. "^ two hundred and thirty-fix feet deep, sbout the beginning of the laft 
 
 century, at Amilerdam., by orde- of the magifi:rates. This well is ftill to 
 
 be iz^w at the OudemannflMufe , 1 Jtwixt the Dot 'eftfcet ■s.nt^ Rufslandy where 
 
 is fluck up a printed account of the order in which \.\\q Jirata lay, which 
 
 is as follows : 
 
 Feet 
 
 1. h. flratum of garden-mould in depth 7 
 
 2. Black turf, or peat 9 
 
 3. Soft clay 9 
 
 4. Sand 8 
 
 5. Earth 4 
 
 6. Clay 10 
 
 7. Earth ' 4 
 
 8. Paving-fand, upon which, as a good foundation, moft 
 
 of the houfes in Amjlerdam are built, piles being 
 firfl driven into it 10 
 
 9. Clay 2 
 
 10. White fand • 4 
 
 11. Dry earth 5 
 
 12. Marfliy, or muddy earth i 
 
 13. Sand 14 
 
 14. A fandy clay 3 
 
 15. Sand intermixt with clay — 5 
 i6. Sea-fand, in which are a great many fmall fliells 4 
 
 17. Clay — — — 102 
 
 1 8. Sand where they left off digging 3 i 
 
 232 feet 
 
 Fofuiott of It is well known, that afhes, coals, bones, potflierds, trees, &c. are 
 tree! in turf, frequently found in the turf-lands or marfhes in Holland and Friejland: 
 lands. j-jyj jj^^,. tj^efe were overwhelmed and buried by fome inundation or de- 
 
 luge maybe concluded from the fimilarity of their pofition j the branches 
 and tops always lying towards the N. E. and the roots in the oppofite 
 diredion. 
 
 * Vide Bernardinus Ranazzini de fontium Mutinenftum admiranda fcaturigine, A^utina, 1692. 
 and Montfaucon'% Diar. Italic. 
 
 In
 
 M D E N A. 145 
 
 In the Mochnefe, efpecially near St. Polo, wliich is not far from Regglo, 
 an excellent alkaline earth, which the Italiam call Terra Vcrgine aurea. Terra Ver^-ine 
 is dug up. Sometimes it is found in a kind of powder, and fometimes ^urea. 
 it refembles a fat and oleaginous tophus, or friable ftone. It is fiift 
 pounded fine, and then made into a foft, white, and infipid pafte. This M^dc'.nal i>fe. 
 is in great repute, and reckoned of equal virtue with Terra Samia, the 
 Bolo bianco and Terra Silefiaca, are ufed as alexipharmics, and found ve y 
 beneficial in fevers, dyfenteries, and hypochondriac diforders *. 
 
 Near the caftle on Monte BaranzonCy and in a place called Fiianetto, o„'jo di 
 wells or pits are dug thirty or forty ells, and more, in depth, in which a Naphti, or 
 kind of oil is feen floating on the furface of the water: this is what the '"''"'^ 
 Italians call Oglio di Naphta, or the Olio di SaJJo, but more commonlv 
 known by the name o^ Petroleum, or oil oi Peter. It is found in greateft 
 plenty in autumn and fpring, and is fkimmcd off the water once in a 
 fortnight; but the wells are kept fhut up clofe. It is of a reddiHi co- 
 lour ; and when one of thefe wells becomes dry, they either dig deeper, 
 or make a new one. Befides thefe, near Cajlello di Monte Gibhio are 
 three other fuch fprings, which are perennial. The oil which thefe lafl: 
 yield is of a yellovvifli colour, and is accounted the befl: in this cot!ntr)\ 
 Petroleum is ufed for embalming the dead, varnifliing, painting, and in 
 pharmacy, and is found not only here, but likewife in the neighbour- 
 hood oi Parma and Naples, in S/cily, feveral of the iflands of the ^/rZ;/- 
 pelego, India, the fouthern parts o^ Frajice, and in other places -j-. 
 
 Some naturaliAs will have this to be a fpecies of Succirunn li'-faiJunj, or the orUin 
 which after its induration is diftinguiflied by the name of amber; and e'""^"'^^''- 
 this opinion is founded on Bocconi's obfervations, who tells us that he 
 found fome drops oi Petroleum inclofed in the middle of a piece of am- 
 ber ; and that amber is to be met vv'ith on the coaft of Sicily only in thnfe 
 places where Petroleum is found, and in no other. How well grounded 
 the affertion of Oligerius 'Jacobceus, -3. Dane, who has writ a particiil.ir 
 treatife on this oil, may be, namely, that it will grow hard and folid if 
 it be boiled with fpirit of nitre, I cannot fiiy, as I have hitherto had no 
 opportunity of trying the experiment. This, however, is certain, that 
 lea- water is not neceflary to the produftion of amber, which is often 
 found in parts very remote from the fea. That it is not £;e icrated from 
 the relin of pine or fir trees, appears evident, b-cauf.% i.i the countries 
 about Foligno, Ancona, and Seija, in the papal dominions, amber, ful- 
 phur, and rcfinous folliles of feveral kinds are dug up, though there is 
 not a wood of pines or firs to be feen all over the country. Near ^icrcoJa 
 and al Sajlo, in the Modonejc, amber is likewife not uncommon ; and is 
 
 * Vide Bnon. Olyr^at. Plyfic. vi. f ^'^"''- Olfcrvat. PLy/"^. v, »X>:, xxxi. 
 
 Vol. III. U ' there
 
 146 M D E N A. 
 
 there found in a foil which has yielded a great quantity oi Petroleum. In 
 the diftriit oi Luncburg, and in places which are io far from having any 
 communication with the fca, that they are at the diftance of ten German 
 miles from it, I myfelf have gathered large pieces of amber, which had 
 both the proper hardnefs, and when rubbed, the eledlric quality of attradl- 
 ing light fubftances. Alfo in a marfliy ground, on an eftate called Gar- 
 tcio, belonging to baron Bernflorf, very good amber has been found. This 
 was of feveral kinds j f^me pieces were yellow and tranfparent, fome 
 white and opaque or cloudy, and others black, which indeed are pro- 
 perly a kind of agate. Thel'e pieces of amber lie fingle in a turfy foil 
 within a concretion of grey fand, and intertnixt with filaments of roots ; 
 they are alfo found in the fame manner in the mountains of Prti/Jia. It 
 is alfo no uncommon thing to find there, and in other places, pieces of 
 wood impregnated with fulphur and refin, which have infinuated them- 
 felves into the pores and interftices. 
 
 The Elbe throws up fine pieces of amber on its banks in feveral places. 
 Ainber is alfo dug up in a mountain called Biigarach, in the province of 
 Lnngucdoc, in France ; but it has not the hardnefs of the PruJJian ; and 
 perhaps the inhabitants make their lamps of it on that account. 
 
 But to obviate the objedlion. That polTibly the firft formation or per- 
 fedtion of amber has been occafioned by the fea-water, which by 
 fome extraordinary inundation may have overflowed thofe countries, that 
 are, at prefent, at a great diftance from the fea, I fliall obferve, that amber 
 is daily formed in the earth, and from a liquid or foft fubftance, is gra- 
 dually indurated, and becomes a hard body. An inftance of this 1 met 
 with in a piece which, a few years ago, was dug up in the abovemen- 
 tioned eftate of Gartoiv, and is now in Sir Hans Shane's Mufeum at 
 London. On the furface of that piece of amber is feen a withered birch- 
 leaf, the fibres and indented edges of which are imprinted in the moft 
 accurate manner on the amber. This muft have been done while the 
 latter was in its liquid ftate. Now this leaf cannot be fuppofed to have 
 continued there whole ages, without corruption or decay ; efpecially as 
 the jlrata in which the Gartoiv amber is found, do not lie above the 
 depth of three or four feet from the furface of the earth. 
 
 The animals which I have feen inclofed in amber, as far as I can re- 
 coUedl:, arc only of the terreftrial kind, as gnats, fpiders, pifmires, locuftr, 
 and the like. Minerals have alfo been found inclofed in amber; which 
 is a plain proof that the former could not be in the liqui.l amber in the 
 fea, tho' luch pieces of amber may have been waflied away from their 
 jlrata by the fea, and be again thrown. by the tides on the lliore, or ac- 
 cidentally drawn up in nets. 
 
 They
 
 M D R N A. i^^7 
 
 They, who attribute the origin of amber to gum or refin of trees, 
 forget that amber remains indiflbkible in water, contrary to tlic nature 
 of gums; and that there never was any vegetable lound, from which 
 a relinous oil and volatile acid can be extrafted, as may be done from 
 amber and other foffils. Amber lofes its hardnels and tranfparency after 
 fufion ; but retains its eleftric or attractive quality, which the modern 
 philolbphers, who are for exploding all occult qualities, attribute to 
 the fubtile faline and fulphureous particles of which' amber is com^- 
 pounded. Fur, fay they, thefe being detached and emitted by the fric- 
 tion, rarefy the air near the amber, fo that light fubflances as ftraw, 
 pieces of paper, ^c. being propelled by the denfer air, move towards 
 the amber, where the air is rarefied more or lefs in proportion to its 
 proximity, or diftance from the latter. 
 
 Two Italian miles, from Safjiiolo in the Modeneje is to be ktn z Fhe n:,UiU 
 chafm in the earth called la Salfa, which often ejeds fmoke, flames, /'■"« Salia. 
 aflies, and ftones of a fulphureous fmell ; and throws many of them to 
 the height of thirty yards. Thefe eruftations generally fall out infprin^- 
 and autumn, and are fometimes attended with very great noifes under 
 ground. The mountain in which this aperture appeaVs, has been ren- 
 dered quite barren by the aflies, ftones, 6ff. ejeded out of the chafm j 
 and during its eruptions the Petroleum or oil of Peter-vJcWs, at Saljb and 
 Monte Gibbio, are extremely turbid. Bocconi in his Miifeo di Fijca & di 
 Efperie}ize, publiflied in quarto at Venice in 1697, pretends to have found 
 out that la Salfa agrees not only as to its efFeds, but alfo the time of its 
 eruptions with mount /Etna in Sicily, and that this agreement was par- 
 ticularly remarkable on the loth, iith, and 12th oi May 1693. 
 
 The country about la Salfa affords petrefications of feveral kinds, petycfaahv 
 Cochleitce, Tiirbinita, Dentales., Tubuliti varii, rcBi cjf intorti ; but at 
 what depth they are found I have not been informed. 
 
 In the little river Salja, near SaJ/uolo, are found the teeth of ITippcpo- 
 tami and T'ubiditce Venniculares. And farther towards Safjuolo, Buccinitcr, 
 Caryophylla marina foffilia Scheucbzeri, Turbinita; fafciculati, hcves & 
 Jlriati, 'Tiirbinita cylindroidei, &c. On Monte delle Meraviglie, are found 
 large chama -ventncofcv. The other mofl: xt\i\zx\i'^\t petrefaEla in the terri- 
 tories of Modena are Conchitct 'valvis (vqualibus lavibus & rofundis; Conchitce 
 oblongi & laves ; Ccncbitcc Jlriati, tranfverfim rugofi. ; Concbltcs in lon^-um 
 & tranfver/im minuti/Jime Jiriati ; Cochleitce ccelati ; Cochleita; trochiformes ; 
 Chamce ; Chamce IcEves, rbomboidece ; Charnce xientricoja ; PeBines aiiriti ; 
 PeSlunculita tarn in longum qiiam tranfverfim flriaii ; TelUnitce fnbrctimdi 
 mimitijjlmc ftriati ; Petliinculi laves ; Oftrcitce imbricati ; Olireitarian 
 €perciila; OJlreita rugofi ; Miirices aiiriti, oris recurvi ; 'Tiirbinita mtiri- 
 
 U 2 call
 
 14.8 R E G G I 0. 
 
 cati of fevewl kinds; Turbinilcs aiiriti, oris dentat'i ; Umbilici fojftleiy 
 alias vpcrcula cochlearum calatarum, &c. 
 
 fl,ai;,,g Laftly, I muft here obferve, that Pliny {lib. ii. c. 95.) mentions a 
 
 ijlaad. floating iil:ind in the M'rt'fw^^'; but at prefent no fuch Phaenomenon i» 
 
 to be lecii in thele parts. 
 
 Betwixt Modena and Rtihiera, you crofs the little river Secchia over a 
 very long bridge : Rubiera is one pofl;-fl:age from Modena, and about half 
 
 Reggio. way to Rr^rgio. This laft mentioned city is better built, and has more 
 
 regular Are'ets than Modena ; it alio appears but little inferior to it in 
 extent. 
 
 The ftreet, in which the famous fair is yearly kept, is particularly re- 
 markable both for its length and breadth; and the only defedl is, that it 
 is not laid out in a direft line. 
 
 In the cathedral oi Reggio is to be feen, over the high altar, the af- 
 fumption of the Virgin Mary, painted by Fincenzo Gotti, and four mar- 
 ble flatues by Clement e da Reggio ; and by the fame hand are alfo thofe 
 o^ Adam and Eve, which fland before the front of the church. Among 
 the fepulchral monuments in this church are feveral belonging to the 
 family of MaJeguzi ; particularly that of Horatio Maleguzi, count of 
 Monte Obizi, v/ho was ambaflador to Philip II. king of Spain, and alfo 
 wrote the Life of pope Pius V. He died in the year 1583. The monu- 
 ment ofUgo Rangoni, legate of Paid Y. to feveral princes, is extremely 
 beautiful. On the right fide of the Tribuna are fix fine marble ftatues, 
 and in an adjoining chapel, the images of St. Fabian and St. Sebajlian. 
 
 Clurch cf the The chiefa della Madonna is a very lightfom building; and the cieling 
 
 Madonna. \^ elegantly painted, 
 
 ?t Pfo:"^ei-o. Before St. Profperds church ftand fix lions which formerly ferved for 
 pedeftals to fome fIrucTiure. The roof is painted by Camillo ProcaccinOy 
 and, among other things, exhibits the laft judgment. In the veftry is 
 to be (een a defcent from the crofs, together with the three Mary's, by 
 Luigi Caracci, which confequently deferve notice. 
 
 \ia .E^nilia. The road betwixt Modena and Parma is a part of the ancient Via 
 
 DA-gktjuhefs ^^ffiilia, and is very pleafant to travel. It lies all along through gardens, 
 
 trff.Ci^'' ''" ^'■"^ is planted on both fides with rows of white mulberry-trees, inter- 
 woven with vines which form a kind of natural feltoons. The whole 
 plain confirts of plantations and inclofures, every where feparated by rows 
 of fruit-trees and vines, fo that few countries can form a richer fcene, 
 or yield a more beautiful landfcape to the eye. 
 
 Ri-jcr Lenza, On the road about five miles from Reggio, a very long bridge is built 
 
 h-jurjan be- Qvcr thc river Lenza, which is the boundary betwixt the dutchies of 
 
 rt<fparraa. Modciia ixnd Pa?-ma. 
 
 On
 
 R E G G I 0. 149 
 
 On the Modomfc fide, and on the left hand, lies the caftle 0^ Ca}ioJfaS^'''°^^"'-^- 
 which belongs at prefcnt to a family of the fame name, and is famous in 
 the hiftory of the middle-ages, being the refidcnce given by the powerful 
 countefs Mathilda to pope HUdchraud or Gregory VII. Here the em- 
 peror Mmry IV. was obliged, in very fevere cold weather, to fland for ]g,wm}mon: pn. 
 three days in the court-yard clad in fack-cloth, and bare-footed, without "«'"■''?/" '■'-'« 
 either meat or drink, and with tears to beg for pardon, before the Pope Jy^"'"' ^"""^ 
 could be prevailed on to receive him again into the bofom of the 
 church *. Concerning the fufpicion of a criminal commerce between tins 
 Pope and Mathilda, fee Lambertus Schaffnaburgenfis ad ann. 1077, p. 809, 
 and the author of Apologia pro Henrico IV. p. 219. -f- 
 
 Several proteftants make ufe of the teftimony of thefe hiftorians in 
 order to complete ihe. Jcandalous hiftory of the court of Rome; and when 
 it is obje(^ed that pope Hildebraiid was old and emaciated, and that Ma- 
 thilda was not very young, tJiey anfwer. That old men are often con- 
 cerned in fuch intrigues. But if, from the hiftories of thofe times, we 
 enquire into the character of pope Gregory VII. they will inform us that 
 ambition and avarice had the predominance over that pontiff; fo that lufi: 
 could make but little oppofition againll thofe reigning paffions. A perfon 
 of fuch a caft of mind is feldom known to indulge himfelf in fenfual 
 pleafures; and if he happens to be furprifed by a ftrong temptation, io as to 
 make a falfe flep, he is afliamed of it, and his former ambition and avarice 
 foon refume the afcendant over him, and put him upon projeds which 
 the world look upon as grand and enterprifmg. 
 
 * Vide Baron. Annal. Tom. xx. ad ann. 1077, ti. xviii, p. 524. Donnizo, hi iiita Ma- 
 thildis, lib. xi. c. I ^5" 7. Arnulphus Medwlancnjis, lib. iv. Gejiorum Mediolauenf. c. viii. p. 746. 
 The fovereign princes o( Europe, are not fenfible how much they are indebted to Luther's 
 reformation, were it only in refpeft of the temporal profperity and outward fecurity of 
 their feveral dominions. See alfo on this head Balth. Bebel. dc beneficih maglflratui politico a 
 Luthero exhihitis, Georg. Hcnr. Gotze, de bcneficiis cecojiomicis Lutheri minijlcrio eMhitis., iS Y'"'^- 
 Hcrtnaim. Fiirjlcnau, de tneritis Lutheri in ccconomiam publicani i^ privatam, Riutel. 1749. 
 
 f To the hiftorians who charge pope Gregory v/iih carrying on amorous intrigues, may 
 be added Leo OJlienf. in chron. Cnfjin, lib, iii. c. 49. Sigbert. Gemblac. and A'iberie. ad an. 1085, 
 who relate that Gregory on his death-bed heartily repented of this cruel treatment of the 
 inihappy emperor Henry IV. but to thele may be oppolcd the filence of other credible hi- 
 ftorians on this head. 
 
 LETTER
 
 130 FARM A. 
 
 LETTER. LXVII. 
 
 Obfervations on Parma and Placentia, 
 
 SIR, 
 
 Parma. 'WyARM^ is a large populous city, and has broad regular ftreets 
 
 ^^ and a great number of handfome houfes, which the Italians here, 
 according to the cuftom of other parts oi Italy, dignify with the name of 
 Rkierofthe palazzl, or palaces. The little river Parma divides the city into two parts, 
 fame name. ^i^jjch have a Communication vvith each other by three flone bridges. 
 CArcmt. Its circuit is about four Italian miles ; and the citadel very much refem- 
 
 Ciiadel. i^j ^.^^j. ^^ Antwerp. The number of inhabitants is fuppofed to be 
 
 habitant. from forty-five to fifty thouland ; but this computation certamly exceeds 
 
 the truth. 
 A/itiquitj of Among the ancient writers who fpeak of this city, are the following : 
 the city. Strabo, lib. v. Livy, lib. xxxix. c. K^^. Rliny, lib. iii. c. 15. Ci- 
 
 cero ad Famil. lib. x. ep. 33. n. 8. Ptolemy, Columella, and others. 
 In an ancient infcription it is ll:iled Colonia 'Julia Augufta Parma. 
 Ducal palace. The ducal pakce is not yet completed : however, in the duke's apart- 
 Iti paintings, mcnt, a great number of fine paintings are to be feen ; among thefe, the 
 pieces which Annibal Caracci has copied in oil colours from the paintings 
 in frefco in the cupola of St. Johns church, by Corregio, are eminently 
 diflinguifhed from the reft. A night-piece of Peter denying Chrift, and 
 another piece, reprefenting Abraham entertaining the three angels, de- 
 ferve a particular attention. Here are two very large pieces by the ca- 
 valiere M^%/o, reprefenting the glories of heaven, and the fall of Z/«- 
 cijer into hell, who, to gain the favour of the ecclefiaftics, has taken 
 care to fill the former with bifhops and friars. 
 
 Adjoining to the dutchefs's apartment, is a looking-glafs clofet j but 
 It has no very large glafies. Moft of the principal rooms are hung 
 with red velvet laced with gold, with the richnef^ of which the brick 
 flooring little agrees. 
 NcUe theatre. The vaft theatre at Parma, fo famous throughout all Europe, was 
 built by Rainutius I. in the year 1618. The parterre, or pit, is fixty- 
 five, and the ftage fixty-two common paces, in length. In Parma, the 
 length of the whole building is generally computed at a hundred and 
 ninety ells, and the height about forty-nine, or fifty. On each fide of 
 the ftage ftands an equeftrian ftatue of one of the former dukes, and 
 4 feveral
 
 PARMA, T51 
 
 feveral other ftatues on each fide of the pit. The latter confifts 6f twelve 
 rows, riiing gradually one above another, as in the ancient Romo.n am- 
 phitheatres ; and over it is a double gallery. Some, indeed, will have it 
 that it will conveniently hold eight or nine thoufand fpedators ; but this 
 is an alTertion which the eye manifeftly contradidls at firft fic^ht. On ■ 
 occafion of the marriage of prince Edward, brother to the prefent duke, 
 with Dorothea Sophia, daughter of Philip V/illiam eledor Palatine, in the 
 year 1670, it was mofi: Iplendidly illuminated ; and during the opera, 
 the parterre, or pit, was laid three or four feet under water, in order to N^njalngage- 
 reprefent a naval engagement betwixt two Gondola's. For this purpofe •'«""' exhibited 
 two large rooms on each fide of the theatre were filled with water, the'""' 
 entrances to the pit were ftopt; and as the flooring and feats of the 
 amphitheatre * are of ftone (the latter being only covered with wood) 
 there was no great diliiculty in exhibiting fuch a Naumachia. But the 
 Gondolas mufi: certainly have been very much confined in their motions, 
 as the pit could not be enlarged ; for in extent it is far fhort of that of 
 the Aliberti theatre at Rome. The moft remarkable thing in the conftruc- ExtmordiKan 
 tion of this edifice, is, that a word ipoken ever fo low en the ftaoe \o""fi'f'''""'f 
 diitmdtly heard in every part of the pit, (which laves the adlors no fmall 
 trouble) and the greatefl: elevation of the voice caufes no echo. It is 
 faid, that when Leivis IV. defigned to build an opera-houfe in the pa- 
 lace of the Tlmillcries at Paris, he fent the celebrated archited: Vigarani 
 to Parma, in order to examine into the caufe of this extraordinary ef- 
 fed; but to no purpofe. The P^m opera-houie is indeed fuppofed \oOhfcr-vation 
 be large enough to contain {Q.\tn or eight thoufand people; but I q^^^. "bout the 
 ftion whether this be not an exaggeration little fliort of that mentioned iCil!' 
 above ; at leaft I am certain that the opera-houfe at Hanover exceeds it 
 both in largenefs and elegance. 
 
 The illumination of the large theatre at Parma being very expenfive, Theatre fir 
 a fmaller theatre has been erecfted for common ufe in a faloon adjoinino-''''''"™" ^'A 
 to it ; and this has a pit large enough to contain two thoufand fpedla- 
 tors. On the fides of it are three rows of feats, and eight more rifin"- 
 one above another, in the manner of an amphitheatre in front, and over 
 thefe are three galleries. 
 
 The duke's library makes a very grand appearance ; the books are all ulraf-t. 
 in French binding, and elegant pillars are placed at certain diftances 
 along the flielves. The number of books does not exceed feventeen 
 or eighteen thoufand volumes ; and all the care taken to preferve them 
 from worms and moths ie, only by fliaking and beating them a little at 
 certain times. 
 
 * The amphitheatre, as it is called, in the foreign theatres anfwers to the front boxes 
 in our play-houfes, and confifts of feveral rows of feats raifed above the pit v/ith a o-radual 
 afceiit. 
 
 The
 
 152 , P A R M A. 
 
 The manufcrlpts are likewife bound in the fame pompous manner. 
 Tho printed books are for the moft part in folio, and chiefly relate to 
 hiftory. At the end of the library is this infcription : 
 
 Infcription. . 'Theatnim Orbh miracuhim 
 
 Ne fiijpicito, 
 
 Majin hicjihi viftdicat 
 
 Sapientia, 
 
 Maximicm Farnejia 
 
 Serefiijimi Francifci 
 
 Duds VII. 
 
 Magnificetttia. 
 
 ' Ceafe to admire the theatre of Parma, which is the wonder of the 
 * world J for wifdom here exhibits a greater : but the greatefl wonder 
 ' of all is the magnificence of his moft ferene highnefs duke Fran- 
 ' cejco VII. of the illuftrious houfe of Farnefe.' 
 
 Cabhet of The cabinet of medals confifts of eighteen thoufand pieces, all of dif- 
 
 *'^^''* ferent dies, though there are no lefs than five hundred of the emperor 
 
 Adrian. Over every medal is a little ticket, with black letters on a 
 gold ground, fhewing on what occafion it was ftruck, ^c. Thefe me- 
 dals are inferted in copper-plates glazed, fo that by turning them you have 
 a view of the reverfes of the medals, without taking them out of the 
 fockets. This collection comes no lower down than the reign of Hera- 
 clhis ; but the feries is continued in gold, filver, and copper pieces, each 
 aflbrtment of which is kept in a feparate cafe. 
 
 RariJifiM. The rareft piece in this collecftion is a medallion q{ Pijcenyiiiis Niger, 
 which was ftruck at Antioch, with Dea Salutis or the goddefs of health, 
 on the reverfe. The three copper medals of Of bo are of the medius modulus, 
 or middling fize; one of which is a Latin medal, and the other two Greek. 
 But the genuinenefs of thefe pieces is much difputed by feveral learned 
 antiquarians. Petriiji, iijejuit, in the year 1694, began the publica- 
 
 Catahgues. tion of a catalogue of this mufeum, the eiglith part of which, confifting 
 of a thin volume in folio, was publiilied z^. Par-ma in the year 1717. 
 After his death the continuation of the work was undertaken by Pio- 
 cieno, znoihtv Jefuit of Placentia, and fon to a /-^ra^/Z^w. nobleman ; but 
 he is fo fparing of his labour, that he has publiOied nothing yet. 
 
 The medal-tables are placed on both fides cf a long gallery, where the 
 eye is farther entertained with the fight of feveral admirable pidures. The 
 
 . •""•■'' ••2^- rpoft efteemed amongft the latter are the foUou^ing pieces, viz. a naked 
 
 Vcmis afleep, by Aiimbal Caracci ; Ui:der which is a iooking-glafs in a 
 
 4 frame
 
 PA R MA. J 53 
 
 frame of white Carrara marble, beautifully carved with five angels and 
 a variety of flowers in rdievo-, by Gutiano Mozani ; the laft judgment, by 
 Mi chcicl Angela; a Fietci by Annibal Curacci ; the efpoufals of St. Catha- 
 rine, by Corregio ; and the celebrated Zingana, or.gipfey, by the fame 
 malfer. This figure v/as accidentally fo called from the brown com- 
 plexion it had when fi'd: painted ; but it is a pidure of the virgin Mary 
 in a wild, defert, country on her flight to Egypt. Here are alfo Lucreiia, 
 by Parmeggiaao, and a remarkable copy of a poi trait of pope Leo X. 
 executed in fuch a mafterly manner by Andrea del Sarto, that it is pre- 
 ferred by the Parmejafjs to the original, which is in the poffellion ot the 
 great duke of Tiifcany. This copy is faid not only to have deceived Va- Remarkable 
 fart., but even Giidio Romano himfelf, who, though he worked on the '^''^-'' ^-'^''^'^' 
 drapery of the original by i^<?/»^^f/, when, fome time after, he faw this 
 copy at Parma, took it for Raphael's piece, and imagined he could diftin- 
 guifh in it fome ftrokes of his own pencil, as Felibien tells us, in his 
 Lives of celebrated painters. Pope Clement VII. who was of the houfe of 
 Medicis, promifed the original pifture to one of the dukes oi Mantua ; who 
 paid his Holinefs a viiit, and afked him for it. But the cunning Florentine 
 being very unwilling, upon fecond thoughts, to part with fuch an exqui- 
 fite piece, contrived to put the duke off^ with a copy of it (which is that 
 we are fpeaking of) and kept the original ftill at Florence. This inftance 
 renders fomething dubious that infallible certainty which many connoif- 
 feurs pretend to, of immediately telling us, upon feeing any celebrated 
 pidure, the name of the artifl: that painted it. 
 
 Near the pidlure-gallery is a fmaller apartment, which, as it contains Mufcum. 
 many coftly and valuable curiofities, may be called a mufeum, or trea- 
 fury. Here are feveral cabinets, tables, and clocks of plain and raifed 
 Florentine-worky and one embelliflied with admirable fculpture, and fet 
 with gems ; two tables of rock-cryftal, adorned with figures, one of 
 which has a filver border gilt, and the other is embellifhed with flowers 
 of enamel and gold ; feveral marble and agate vafes ; a fine hanger fet 
 with very valuable jewels, among which is a cryfolite of the bignefs of a 
 large bean ; feveral cafkets ornamented with enamel and gems ; paint- 
 ings on lapis laztdi, and curious works in ivory. Among the laft are 
 feveral crucifixes, where the whole body of our Saviour, the arms ex- 
 cepted, is made of a fingle piece. Here is an affortment of mother-of- 
 pearl, curioufly wrought ; another of amber, and a clofet full of pieces 
 of rock cryftal, moft of which were brought from the country of the 
 Grifons. Some of thefe pieces are near the bignefs of a man's head; Extra,,/,: ■ 
 and in this clofet is an entire fet of altar-furniture of cryftal, with a ' ,- ■ - 
 caflcet of cryftal, feveral cryftal pillars, and a remarkable piece of the '"^■^'"'' 
 fame, refembling a mountain dividing itfelf into two forked tops, which 
 
 Vol. III. X weighs
 
 '54- 
 
 jintiqultie!. 
 
 PARMA. 
 
 weighs near a thoufand pounds. It has not indeed the fincfl; luflre ; but 
 as to its hugenefs, I qucflion whether its equal can be produced in any 
 paft of the world. The largcft piece of cryftal known in Pliny ^ tinie 
 weighed no more than fifty pounds, and was prefentcd by Lhia to the 
 Capitol as a very extraordinary curiofity *. 
 
 Adjoining to this mufeian is an apartment filled with fhells, ancient 
 Paiminv'" infciipt^ions, buflo's, and lamps; Eg\ptia?i, Greek, and Roman idols. 
 fieico L.long. Not long fince the paintings m jrcfco difcovered at Rome in the Farnejian 
 '"& ''' Nero'j gardens, and fuppofed to have belonged to Nero\ apartments, were 
 alfo brought hither. The figures of n-^en reprefented in thefe paintings 
 are not defigned in the beft manner; the faces are fcarce diftinguifhable, 
 and the colours at prefent quite fided. In my opinion it would be do- 
 ing injuftice to the ancients to form an idea of their fkill in painting 
 from iuch pieces ; for though, probably, antiquity produced no paintings 
 which can rival the works of Raphael and fome other modern artifts ; 
 yet their painters could not but draw great advantages from the flourilh- 
 ing flate of fculpture, in which the ancients deferve the highefl; ap- 
 plaufe. 
 
 In a cabinet in this room is kept a mifial curioufly illuminated and 
 painted, at the end of which is an altar painted in miniature, and 
 infcribed with thefe words : 
 
 yulitis Chvius Monumenta hac Alexandra Farnefio Domino fiio facie- 
 bat M.D.XL.VL 
 
 RighiilO the 
 fainter. 
 
 Stables. 
 
 Dlfpojiiion of 
 the acnian) 
 de' Nobili. 
 
 ' Julius Clo-oius painted thefe memorials for Alejfandro Fa?-nefe, his 
 ' patron, in the year 1 546.' 
 
 Concerning the works of this Clovius mention has already been made 
 in mv account of the Vatican library. Thefe paintings have been alfo 
 retouched by P. Ramclli, who died very lately. 
 
 As to the theatrical and perfpeftive paintings, Parana may now boafi: 
 of a mafterly hand in Righino, a native of that city. 
 
 The duke's ftables confift of feveral feparate buildings ; and near them 
 are alfo kept the ftate coaches, ^c. both of ancient and modern times, 
 many of which are very fuperb. 
 
 Duke Raitiutius I. befides the Univerlitv ereded in 1599, alfo founded 
 an accademy in 1601 for perfons of noble families, in which young 
 fludents from their childhood are inflrudted not only in grammar, the claf- 
 
 * Pim, Hi/}. Ntit. lib. xxxvii. a//. 2. 
 
 fics
 
 PA R MA.- i5<; 
 
 fics, rhetoric, philofophy, mathematics, geography, hiftory, diviiiitv, 
 the civil, feodal, and canon lawj but likcwife in the German?, FrcJich, 
 and SpaniJIi languages ; in mufic, painting, fortification, dancing, fenc- 
 ing, vaulting, and riding. This academy is under the diredion of tlic 
 ycfuiis'; and the annual allowance to every ftudent for board, lodging, 
 wartiing, fire and candle, attendance, and inftrudlion is about a hundred 
 Filippi *y one of which is equal to nine Piwli and a half. The riding 
 fchool is furnilhed with horfes from the dukes ftables, to the number 
 of twenty or thirty ; and only a ducatoon, or fcudo-\-, is given every month 
 to the head groom. For other arts, as painting, fortification, (^c. thev 
 pay about four Pao/i'l a month; and the gratuities to fervants, contri- 
 bution to the chapel, feaik^, comedies, and the carnival diverfions, may 
 amount to about four ducatoom \\ a year. 
 
 The morning ledures generally take up two hours and a half, 
 and thofe of the afternoon about three. The fcudents are divided into 
 cameratCy or dalles, of ten or thirteen ; and every comeraia has a Wx- 
 vant and a monitor, which muft be an ecclefiaftic. There are at prc- 
 fent a hundred and thirty young noblemen, either counts or barons in 
 this college; but the foundation admits of two hundred and fifty ftudirnts. 
 Youth of all nations are received here indifcriminately ; but with reg.ird 
 to birth they mufi: be noble, and fu:h as are capable of being admitted 
 among the knights of Malta. When they walk about the cirv, the fi-u- 
 dents are drefied in black ; but in hunting, and during the feftivities in 
 autumn, they are allowed to wear deaths of any colour. That ftudent 
 who fignalizes himfelf moft by his exercifes, &c. is ftiled princlpe, and 
 has a particular refped paid him by the reft. He likewife wears a me- 
 dal hanging at a purp'e ribbon with a filver border, on his breaft. 
 
 There are two elegant theatres in the college, in one of which the 
 ftudents ad plays during the carnival ; at other times they allow the 
 players to perform in theni. The autumn vacation they fpend at one of the 
 duke's country feats in filhing, hunting, and other innocent paftitnos ; 
 but under the care of proper diredors : nor are their ftudies quite laid 
 afide during this feafon. The duke and the principal nobility of the 
 city lend their coaches and horfes to carry the ftudents into the country ; 
 and at the expiration of the time allowed them, they are brought 
 back in the lame manner. 
 
 The cupola of the cathedral is admirably painted by Corrcgio, and re- Cathedral cu 
 prefents the ailumption of the virgin Mary. In this piece the noble in- ^'■^1.^''^^||^''" ^ 
 vention of the painter, the delicacy of the ftrokes of his pencil, and 
 the beauty of the colouring cannot be fuificiently extolled. Copper- 
 
 * A FU'ippo is about four fiiillings and niucpence fterling. -j- A Crown. % Two 
 
 fhilJLngs. II About a guinea. 
 
 X 2 plates
 
 ,36 PARMA. 
 
 plates of this cupola are fold at Rome by RqlJi iov two feu di and a half. 
 This work is entitled La Cupola di Porma^ cioe la P'ergine ajfunta in gloria 
 con cGvi d'Jngeli e Santi fra le niibi e jplendori cele/li, gli ApoHoU, i Santi 
 Dottori cogli altri Angeli e Piitii, con candelieri e odori, difcgnata e intag- 
 iiata in acqita forte da Giov. Battijia Faimi, and is comprifed in fifteen 
 fheets of imperial paper. 
 Monument of In the large fubterraneous vault under this church is feen the ftately 
 Bern, degli monument of S. Bernardo degli Uberti, a native of Florence, and bifliop 
 Ubem. ^^ Parma. In the area before the church, as before many other churches 
 
 in this part of Italy, {land the figures of feveral lions, which fupport the 
 Chabel for pilUirs of the portico. The baptiftery, or particular chapel for admini- 
 ba^tifm. llering baptilm, ftands clofe by the cathedral. It is an octangular, lofty, 
 fpacious ftrufture, and refembles the baptiftery at Pifa. The font is of 
 one entire piece of white marble, and the balluftrade round it is of yel- 
 low marble. In this chapel are to be feen feveral ancient pieces of 
 painting, which are very much valued. 
 Church of_ St. ]S[q{; far from the cathedral ftands the Chiefa di S. Giovanni, which has 
 Oiovanni. ^^ elegant front, ztribuna decorated with fculpture and gilding, and two 
 fine organs eredted oppofite to each other. The cupola of this church, 
 as well as that of the cathedral, was painted by Corregio, and reprefents 
 the virgin Mary crowned by God the Father and the Son. But when 
 the BenediBine monks, to whom this church belongs, thought proper 
 to widen the choir, the cupola was broken down : however, before that 
 happened, copies were taken of the paintings with which it was adorned 
 by Annihal and Augujlino Caracci ; and from thofe copies the prefent cu- 
 pola was painted by Cefare Aretiiji. The copies painted by the two Ca- 
 racci s are kept in the duke's palace. Corregio worked on the original 
 paintings in the old cupola from the year 1520 to 1524 *. 
 r, f The afcenfion or affumption of the virgin Mary over the high altar is 
 
 r roper nams cj . , - ^ '^t-, , ^ 
 
 Parmeggiano the work of Parmeggiauo, whofe proper name was Franccjco (or as others 
 
 the fainter. ^yj|j j^j^^g j^^ Giacomo) MazziioH ; and by that name he is diftinguiflied 
 
 from his uncle Girolamo Mazziioli, who alfo was an eminent painter. 
 
 jlh misfortune. According to VajTari^ account, Francefco Mazziioli, or Parmeggiano was 
 
 unhappily feduced by alchymiftical chimeras, fo that he negled:ed his 
 
 proper art, and at laft he loll his reputation, his eafe, and his life. 
 
 The above-mentioned high altar is infulated or detached from the 
 wall, and fet with lapis lazuli, agate, and curious forts of fine marble. 
 The flails in the choir are of wood beautifully inlaid. In the Capella 
 della Madonna are to be feen two original paintings by Corregio, and two 
 copies of his famous night-piece, and Madonna, which are in the ducal 
 palace at Modena. 
 
 * See Bjchardj'jn\ Treatifc oji Painting and Sculpture. 
 
 In
 
 PAR M A. 157 
 
 In the church del Sepokro is likcwife to be feen, in a chapel near the cw./^ del Se- 
 entrance on the right hand, the virgin Mary with her divine infant, and ^° "'^' 
 yofcph. Oppofite to this is a pidure of JoJ'cph exhorting Mary to efcape 
 to Egypt, both by Corrcgio. 
 
 In the church of S. Antonio /' Abbate is a fine piece by the fame mafter, s Antonio 
 reprefenting St. "Jerom and the virgin Mary, with the infant Jrjus, and ' ^"^ti.LCu-. 
 St. Mary Magdalene worfliipping him. 
 
 The church of Madonna delta Steccata is elegantly built, and is adcrned Madonna 
 with four fmall cupola's, painted in fre/co by Farmeggiano. ddiaSteccata. 
 
 The monuments of feveral princes of the houfe of Farneje are to be Cciiurhin 
 feen in the CVt/'/i'*:/'/); church. Under the arch or vault where the farco- '^^-'•'"^''•'• 
 phagus of the celebrated hero AleJJlindro Fartieje lies, is the following in- Alex. Far- 
 fcription : vi^ies epitaph. 
 
 * Pro partis ViBoriis in Belgio clams. 
 Fro Chriftianis virtufibus ?'« caelo clarior, 
 Ft SeretiiJJima ejus Uxor Maria Lnjiiana, 
 ^omodo in vita fud dilexerunt fe. 
 It a et in morte nonftint Jeparati. 
 Hcec anibos iirna captt ; 
 Et quos pi etas fecerat Jimiles, 
 Sepulchrtim facit aquales. 
 Obiit Ilk anno MDXCII. Hcec aiitem M. D. LXXFII. 
 
 * In this urn lies a prince famous for his vidlories in the Low coun- 
 ' tries, but more illuflnous in heaven for his Chriftian virtues, together 
 * with his moft ferene confort Mary, a princefs oi Portugal ; who, as in 
 ' life they loved each other, in death are not divided : for thofe who 
 ' refembled each other in piety, are equally commemorated by thefe 
 ' monumental honours. He died in the year 1592; and his confort 
 
 " ^Sir- 
 On the pavement of the church near the door, and juft over the grave, 
 are thefe words : 
 
 D. 0. M. 
 
 Alexander Farnefius, 
 
 Belgis deviBis, 
 
 Francifque obftdione levatis, 
 
 Ut 
 
 Humili hoc loco 
 
 Ejus cadaver reponeretur 
 
 Mandavif. 
 
 III. Non. Dccemb. MDXCII. 
 
 * I fuppofe Alexander Farnefius muft be inferted here to make the leiuc complete, though 
 it is omitted in the Gcnimn edition. 
 
 Et
 
 158 
 
 P A 
 
 R 
 
 Et 
 
 M A. 
 
 Duke's rc-z'i- 
 Salt-ivotks. 
 
 Vt fecinn Marue Lufitana 
 
 CouJKgis optima; oJJ'a 
 
 'jiingcrentur-, illiiis 
 
 fejuwientiim fccutus^ 
 
 Anniiit. 
 
 * To God the greateft and beft of Beings.' 
 ' Aufflindfo Fameft'y after defeating tiie Flemings and relieving the 
 
 * French who were belieged, ordered his body to be laid in this hum- 
 ' ble place on the third o^ December 1592. And, in compliance with her 
 ' laft will, confented that the remains of his dear wife Mary oi Portugal 
 
 * fliould be depofited in the fame grave.' 
 
 Here are likewife fome good paintings by Guercino, Annibal Ca- 
 racci, and Augujlino Caracci •■, the laft of thefe artifts lies buried in this 
 church. 
 
 The yearly revenues of the duke oi Farma are computed at five hun- 
 dred and fifty thoufand fcudi or crowns fterling. It is faid, the falt-works 
 alone, all charges deduced, yield above fifty thoufand y^W/. They are 
 carried on at Salfo, about twenty-four Italian miles from Parjna; where 
 there are twelve wells or pits of lalt-water, which are two hundred ells in 
 depth. The water being drawn out of the wells is boiled in large cal- 
 drons till it evaporates, and begins to coagulate or break fo as to produce 
 fait. After this it is mixed with putrefied bullocks blood, and that of 
 other animals, and the whole is boiled together for about an hour, and 
 carefully fKimmed all the while. By this procefs a pure and white fait is 
 obtained. The mixture of blood with the falt-water I had feen pradtifed 
 ihod is ufei. at Hall in Saxony, and fome other parts of Germany ; but did not think 
 it was ufed for refining fait in any other country in Europe, as this me- 
 thod is entirely unknown at Funebnrg and other falt-works. It is indeed 
 pretended, that the volatile falts with which the blood of animals is re- 
 plete, purify the falt-water drawn from wells, and help to precipitate the 
 heterogeneous particles ; however, this may be effedlcd by many other 
 ingredient?, without making ufe of blood. 
 
 At Lijignano, which lies twelve Italian miles from Parma, are two 
 medicinal fprings of mineral water. 
 
 Petroleum is found in feveral places in the Parmefan territories; fome- 
 times without water, as at ilf/^«o and Vizzole ; fometimes floating on the 
 furface of tlie water in wells, as at Ozzono, St. Andrea, Fornoxo, Pibiam, 
 Lifgnano, Torre, Safjb., and Cakfrano. 
 
 For ''jshhh 
 
 Idhierat 
 firings. 
 
 Petroleum. 
 
 In
 
 PAR M A. 159 
 
 In fome veins of loam and chalk near Bardi, fexanguhr cryflals are^':>y5'«/f. 
 frequently found, and alio a few petrefaftions. 
 
 The excellency of the Parmejan thetfe, fo celebrated at all the elegant parmefan 
 tables m Europe, proceeds from the excellent pafturcs in this country j/"^ <•'!*• 
 particularly thofe about Flacaitia, where the meadows during the whole 
 iummer may be watered at pleafure, by means of fmall fluices which 
 convey water from the Fo. Befides, the waters of that river are impreg- 
 nated with a flimy fubflance, which proves a very good manure to the 
 grounds which they overflow. The cows here yield an uncommon 
 quantity of milk, fo that in a good feafon the miik of fifty cows will 
 make a rich cheefe of a hundred weight every day. But within few 
 miles of this fertile traft of land, which docs not extend above ten Ita- 
 lian miles in length, the cows do not yield fuch plenty of milk as they 
 do in the Parmefan; nor is it fo rich. But as in Germany great quanti- 
 ties of Dutch cheefes are fold, which never were in Holland, fo likewife 
 many thoufands of pounds of cheefe made in Lodi, Torino, Bologna, &c. 
 pafs under the name oi Parmejan; efpecially as the peafants about Lodi, 
 in the Milanefe, have the like advantage of watering their meadows, fo 
 as to mow them four or five times a year. There are three kinds of 
 Par me fan cheefe : i. Formaggio di Forma, which is commonly two 
 palms in diameter and about eight inches thick. 2. Formaggio di Ro- 
 /^iole, and 3. Formaggio di Robiolini. Sometimes faffron is ufed for co- 
 louring thefe cheefes, and half an ounce fuffices for a hundred of them. 
 Parmejan cheefe is in greateft perfection when it is three or four years 
 old ; and that which crumbles in cutting is reckoned the beft. 
 
 At Vianino, near the Appenine mountains, a very palatable cheefe is 
 made of fheeps-milk. 
 
 The diftance from Parma to Placentia is about thirty-three Italian 
 miles, and about five miles from the former there is a ferry over the 
 river Faro. A little way farther, on the left, hand lies Qiftcllo Giielfo, Caftello 
 which is ftill inhabited : Not far from it ftands Caftello Gibcllino. Both Guelfo w 
 thefe caftles derive their names from the two faQions by which Ger?naiiyi^^_^ ° ' ^' 
 and Italy were for a long time made a fcene of flaughter and con- 
 fufion *. 
 
 Borgo S. Do?2nino, which is the next pofl-flage, though it be a very BorgoS.Doa- 
 mean place, is an epifcopal fee. The country about this town abounds "'"°- 
 
 * Concerning the origin of the natn-es of Guclphs and GVucItlncs, the Italians have pub- 
 lifhed feveral ridiculous ficSlions, vide Sioon. tie regn. Ital. c. 13. Philipp. Bergam. ad ar, 1234. 
 Trithejn. chron. Hirjaug. ad an. 1 140. The true epocha of thefe appellations is to be dated 
 from the year 1 140, when at the battle near IVieJherg, the oppofite parties of duke Giiclph 
 and Conrad diflinguifhed themfelves by the rnilitary words //)<' //'r^ and i:}"*" ^•'^'''''"',?''" • 
 See Audi: Prcfl'yter. chron. Bavcrr. p. 25. Adlzrdtcr m.r.aL Bit. P. /, lib. 21. and Eccanl de 
 iij'u i£ preejl.jliid, etpml. § 5. 
 
 in
 
 i6o PLACENTIA. 
 
 \\\ truffles. The road here is very good and exceeding pleafant all tli 
 way, like tliat from Facnza and Bolcgna. It runs in a rtraight line with 
 finc^nclofures on both fides, which are divided by rows of fruit-trees in- 
 terwoven with vines ; particularly the part that leads from Rcggio (which 
 has been already defcribed) to Flacentia^ where the country is fo delight- 
 fully caltivated, that it has the appearance of a large garden or orchard. 
 In luch a charming fertile country, it may be fuppofed, that the clergy 
 have not negledted to procure fat benefices and large endowments. Ac- 
 Great r.ui!:lcr cordiugly I have been allured, that of the twenty-eight thoufand inha- 
 ffefckf.nftns bitants of the territories of Placcntia, two thoufand are ecclefiaflics, 
 '■« i*i^"''=i^- mqrks, nuns, &c. 
 
 Annual fair. On the fifth day oi April the great yearly fair commences, and lafts a 
 fortnight. Placentia fair is accounted the largeft in all Italy ; but is not 
 to be compared with the fairs held in Germany. The flands and booths 
 take up a very large area near the ducal palace, which is laid out in regu- 
 lar lanes or palfages, which are covered with canvas, as a Hielter both againfl 
 rain and the heat of the fun. The beft entertainment in Placentiay during 
 the fair was the opera, where three of the beft fingers in Italy performed 
 the vocal part, namely. Carlo Brofchi, detto Farinelli, Giovanni Carefti}ii, 
 and Francefca Qizzoni Sandoni. A perfon is admitted into the pit for 
 apaolo-f-. One inconveniency that attended this diverfion was, that the 
 opera did not begin till ten o'clock at night, and was not over till near 
 Tte pre/eiit fout in the moming. The duke and dutchefs of Parma, with a very nu- 
 //a/ffff/raima. jj^gj-Qyg j-etinue, were prefent. The duke, as to his perfon is very cor- 
 pulent, though he has formerly ufed a great deal of exercife, as riding 
 and hunting, &c. to bring down his fat. But as at prefent his corpu- 
 lency will not bear any violent motion, he pafi!es moft of his time in 
 reading and converfation X- He is very affable to ftrangers, and during 
 the opera feveral perfons were admitted into his box. The dutchefs is 
 of the duke of Modejtdi family. They live very happily together, and 
 their only concern is the want of a male heir *. The court generally re- 
 fides at Parma, the air of that city being reckoned more falubrious than 
 that of Placentia. The ducal palace at the former is alfo larger and more 
 commodious than that of Placentia. 
 Equefirianfa. Qn the area before the tcwn-houfe are two bronze equeftrian fta- 
 /«? 0/ Alexan- j^jgg^ and on each of the pedeftals, which are of ftonc, two bronze 
 balfo relievo's with an infcription in brafs under each of them. One ftatue, 
 
 t Six-pence. 
 
 X Since this author wrote, the dutchy of Parma is become fubje6l to a prince of the 
 houfe of Bcuyhon. 
 
 * Duke Anton'w, who fucceedcd his brother Francefco in the year 1727, died on the 20th 
 of 'January 1731. 
 
 4. and
 
 PLACENriA, i6r 
 
 which Is much fuperior to the other, reprefents duke Alejfandro 
 Farnefe, and the baffb relievo's on the pedeftal exhibit the fiege oi Ant- 
 werp, and the raifing of that of Paris, witli the following infcriptiq» on 
 two fides of it : 
 
 Alexandra Farnejio 
 
 Placentice, Parnice &c. Duci III. 
 
 S. R. E. 
 
 Gonfalonerio perpetuo 
 
 Belgis deviclis Belgico, 
 
 Gallis objidione levatis Gallico, 
 
 Placentia Civitas, 
 
 Ob ampli/Jima accepta benejicia, 
 
 Ob Placentinum nomen 
 
 Sui nomifiis gloria 
 
 Ad ultimas usque gentes 
 
 Propagatum, 
 
 InviSlo Domino fuo 
 
 Eqiiejiri hdc Jlatud 
 
 Sempiternum 'uoliiit extare monimentwn. 
 
 * To AleJJ'andro Farnefe, third duke of Placentia, Parma, &c. the con- 
 
 * queror of the Netherlands, to whom Paris the capital of France owed 
 ' its relief, the city of Placentia in gratitude for the many great benefits 
 ' received from him, and for his propagating the honour of Placentia by 
 
 * his illuftrious name to the remotefl: part of the globe have eredled this 
 
 * equeftrian fl:atue, as to their invincible fovereign, and as a perpetual 
 
 * monument of his glory.' 
 
 Under the other fi:atue which is that of Rainucci I. are the following Rainuntius 
 words : t^^ fi'-fi- 
 
 Rainiitio Farnefio 
 
 Placentice, Parma &c. Duci IIII. 
 
 S. R, E. Gonfalonerio perpetuo 
 
 Coftodi jujlitia, 
 
 Cultori cequitatis, 
 
 Ob 
 
 Opifices alleSlos, 
 
 Popidum auSlum, 
 
 Patriam illujiratam, 
 
 Placentia Civitas 
 
 Pri7icipi Optimo 
 Equejlrem Statuam 
 D. D. 
 Vol. III. Y To
 
 i62 PLACENTIA. 
 
 * To Rainucci Fiirnefc, fourth duke of Fhcentia., Parma, (sc. the bcft 
 
 * of princes, the patron of juftice and equity, the city of P/aceniia, in 
 
 * gt%titude for his care in procuring the moft ingenious artificers, in 
 ' promoting the glory cf his country, and increafing the number of his 
 ' fubjedls, has ereded and dedicated this equeftrian flatue.' 
 
 Thefe infcriptions, with feveral others, fhew that the Placenjians give 
 themfeh'es the preference to the Pannejans, The Scots, in the title of 
 thofe kings, who, at the fame time were kings of England, were guilty, 
 but in a greater degree, of the fame arrogance. 
 
 The caftle of Placentia, is but improperly fo called, and the city is 
 not capable of making any defence. The river Po runs at the diftance 
 of five or fix hundred paces from Placentia; and the whole diftridl, on 
 account of which the city is very juftly called Piacenza, i. e. Pleafant- 
 nefs, exhibits a delightful profpeft from the top of one of the towers in 
 nstradone. the city. The high-ftreet, called Stradone, is five and twenty common 
 paces broad, and three thoufand feet long in a diredl linej but the 
 buildings are not anfwerable. 
 
 In St. Sixtm's church, which belongs to the BenediSiines, is to be ktn 
 a fine pidure in which Raphael has reprefented the virgin Mary with 
 St. Sixtus and St. Barba. The ftalls in the choir are of wood finely in- 
 laid, and it is furnifhed with two fine organs, ereded oppofite to each 
 other. On one fide of the high altar this infcription is cut in marble, 
 Engilbgera Augiijla Hludovici Germ. Reg. F. Hludovici Pii Aug. NeptiSy 
 Karoli M. Aug. Prompt is, Hludovici II. Aug. Conjux ; fignifying, ' That 
 ' Rngilberga Augufla, the daughter of hudovic king of Germany, grand- 
 ' daughter of Ludovic the pious and auguft, great-grandaughter of 
 
 * Charles the great and auguft, and wife io Ludovic II. the auguft, founded 
 
 * this church.' Near this altar is to be feen a large fepulchral monu- 
 ment of white and black marble, on which are two lions, two ftatues 
 of women, and two of men, all of white marble, together with the 
 Aujlrian and Farnefe arms. There is no infcription on the monument 
 itfelf ; but, probably, it was ereded in honour of Margaret of Auftria, 
 the wife of duke Ottavio Farnefe, and mother to the celebrated hero 
 Akffandro Farnefe. Clofe by it on the left hand, as you go towards the 
 altar, are the following words : 
 
 St. Sixtus'i 
 fhurck'. 
 
 Movunant of 
 Maiparel ef 
 ^u'.lria. 
 
 Margareta
 
 PLACENriA. 162 
 
 Margareta Aujiriacce 
 Car oil V. Aug. F. 
 OSfavii Far?!. Plac. & Farm. Duds JI. _ ^ 
 
 Uxori 
 Akxandri Max. Ducis III. Matri, 
 
 Ramutii Ducis JV. Avia., 
 Majoribus, Viro & Sobole felicijjima 
 RariJJt?ni exempli fcefnince., 
 Rebujque in Belgio gejiis 
 Iiifigniy 
 ^luod in Satmiio decedem ojja fua 
 In banc cedem transferri jujit, 
 ^odque eidem pretiofam fuppelleBilem 
 Ft ccenobio in pios ufus pecuniam 
 Legavit, 
 Abbas & Monacbi pof. 
 MDCXVIL 
 
 * To Margaret of Aujiria, daughter of Charles V, the auguft, wife 
 
 * of Ottavio Farneje, fecond duke of Flacentia and Farma, mother of 
 ' Alejfandro the great, third duke, and grandmother of Rainucciy the 
 
 * fourth duke, who was remarkably happy in her anceftors, her hufband, 
 
 * and her defcendants ; a woman whofe exemplary piety was equalled 
 ' by few, and famous for her noble aftions in the Netherlands, &c. who 
 
 * left her rich furniture and a large fum of money to this convent for 
 
 * pious ufes ; the abbots and monks ereded this monument in 16 17. 
 
 This lady was a natural daughter of the emperor Charles V. and in ^a-(?«w/ o/ie,-. 
 her fourteenth year was married to the firft duke, of Florence, Alejfandro 
 de Medicis, who was a natural fon of Lorenzo de Medicis duke of Ur- 
 bino, or, according to others, of pope Clement VII. But he being foon 
 after murdered, in the year 1538, fhe was again married to the duke of 
 Farma ; her fecond hufband being hardly fourteen years of age, and flae 
 fcarce entered into her feventeenth year. After the death of Charles V: 
 fhe was appointed governefs of the Netherlands, in the year 1559, which 
 high ftation fhe difcharged with fo much prudence, for the fpace of eight 
 years, that probably the Spanijli affairs in that country would have taken 
 a better turn, had her ad'ice been followed by the miniftry. She was 
 not otiiy remarkable for her firmnefs and refolution, but was alfo famous 
 for her bodily ftrength, and is faid to have had a beard like that of a 
 man. She died in the year 1586, at Ortona in the kingdom oi Naples, 
 
 Y 2 as
 
 164- 
 
 CREMONA, 
 
 St. Auiuf- 
 iirCs church. 
 
 S. Maria in 
 Canipagna. 
 
 S. Sabino. 
 
 as appears by the infcription quoted above, which lays that Margaret 
 died at Saninium, the ancient name of that city. 
 
 The church of St, Aitgujiin is remarkable for its fine nave and fpa- 
 cious ifles. Here are alfo feveral pieces in ftucco-work, and in the veftry, 
 the crucifixion finely cut in wood. 
 
 S. Maria in Campagna is one of the beft churches in the city, and is 
 adorned with a great many pieces of painting by Georgionc, Paolo Veronefe, 
 Alcfjandro Tiarini^ and Pordcmne. 
 
 St. Sabino's church is remarkable for its fine ogan, and for a certain 
 feftival, at which feafon the church is for fome days ornamented with 
 a furprifing quantity of rich furniture and plate : And on the middle of 
 the great altar, which then looks like a magnificent fide-board, is a kind 
 of pyramid of large fiver difhes, &c. 
 
 There are in the dutchy of Placentia a great number of falt-works. 
 A confiderable quantity of vitriol is alfo gathered and refined there ; and 
 fome iron forges have likewife been fet on foot in this country near the 
 Appenines, where they have alfo begun to work in copper. 
 fcMfaaioiii. Among the petrefadions of this country, the Dentales are remarkably 
 beautiful, and well preferved. 
 
 Sall-tvoris. 
 P'llriol. 
 
 Iron, 
 
 LETTER LXVIir. 
 
 Tourney to Cremona and Mantua^ 
 
 ^oad to Cre- 
 mona. 
 
 iS'ver Po. 
 
 Cremona. 
 Vai'veyftti. 
 F<.itifi^ati<,n. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 FROM Placentia to Cremona is a journey of eighteen Italian miles, 
 along a fruitful well-cultivated country ; but the road is not fo plea- 
 fan t, nor kept in fuch good repair as the Via Mmilia leading to Pla- 
 centia. 
 
 In the way to Cremona the Po is ferried over ; there being no bridge on 
 this river below Turin. It is here about the breadth of the Rhi):e at 
 Manheim ; but a little lower it grows much wider. According to Bur- 
 nett computation, in his Theory of the Earth, the Po hourly difcharges 
 into the gulph of Venice, eighteen millions of cubic feet of water ; which, 
 however, I fhall not difpute with him. 
 
 Crano7ia is an univerfity, which was founded by the emperor Sigif- 
 mund; but is rtow in a very declining condition. The fortifications of 
 
 this
 
 C R E M Ny^, ■ 165 
 
 this city are at prefcnt of no importance j and it owes a great part of its 
 
 reputation to the attempt made on this place by prince Eugefie, in the^^"""^^"* 
 
 year 1702. By means of a correfpondence carried on hetwixt tlie Imoe- ^'^"'i,'"'"""^' 
 
 rialifts and fome of the townfmen, and particularly with an ecclefiaftic 
 
 of the name oi Cofoli, who was curate of 5. Maria Niiovo, a church that 
 
 ftood near the ramparts, he got poffefhon of the Porta Zanta and Palazzo 
 
 Publico, or town-houfe, where marfhal Villeroy refided ; aiid on the firft 
 
 of Fibruary entered the city by a canal or aquedudV, through which 
 
 formerly the French had alfo furprifed this place. But unfortunately tJie 
 
 troops which were to fupport this bold enterprize having loft their way 
 
 by the darknefs of the night and a fog, came up too late ; and gave tlie 
 
 French (to whom the Irifl? brigades, by furioufly attacking the Germans, jy,.a.ve,-< or the 
 
 performed fignal fervice) time to recover from their pannic, and put iri'li- 
 
 themfelves in a pofture of defence : fo that the Imperialifts were obliged' 
 
 to retreat; contenting themfelves with the honour of car ryi no- off /^V/- 
 
 leroy prifoner from a garrifon of fix thoufand men. The French, in the 
 
 firft tranfport of their rage againft Cojoli, pulled down the church of 
 
 S. Maria Niiova to the ground; fo that nothing of it is now to be {atw. 
 
 But near the place where the church ftood, not fiir from the Porta 
 
 Smita, is fliewn the fubterraneous pafi!age through which the Germans 
 
 entered the city ; it is now fecured with a ftrong iron grate. 
 
 There are in Cremona a great many towers and fteeples ; but the highefl 
 of them does not delerve the encomiums commonly beflowed on it ; 
 for Italy affords a great many towers, which not only equal, but furpafs 
 it in height. There goes a flory that the emperor Sigijnmnd and pope 
 John XXII. once afcended this tower, attended by Gahrino FiindoUa, the 
 fbvereign of the city ; and that the latter afterwards faid, ' He repented A ,em:irko.bie 
 ' of nothing fo much as that he had not thrown down the civil and "i/^""'^?/' 
 ' temporal heads of Chriftendom from the top of it, and by that means '^"^^'""^''""' 
 < immortalized his name, in imitation of Erojiratus, who fet fire to the 
 * famous temple of Diana at EphefusJ 
 
 In the cathedral is a handfome monument eredled to the memory oi Cathedral. 
 cardinal Fra?icefco Sfondrato, adorned with fine baj/b-relievo's ; and like- 
 wife fome paintings by celebrated maflers. Before the entrance of the 
 church are two lions, each fupporting a pillar. The like alfo is to be 
 ieen before the baptiftery, which is a large, lofty, odangular building, 
 with two galleries round the upper part of it. 
 
 The Dominican church is adorned with fome good paintings, and a Domini 
 fuperb altar made of laps lazuli, agate, and beautiful marble. On \.\\c <:h''rcb. 
 cieling is feen a pidture of the Madonna, who, in token of her peculiar 
 protedlion, lays her mantle over three monks, and as many nuns, of 
 the Dominican order. In the area before the church is a flatue of St. ^'"''i'^/'J^. 
 3 Dominic^°'^''''^-
 
 i66 B O Z Z L Oy &c. 
 
 Dominic holding a crofs in his right-hand, and in his left a dog with a 
 lighted torch in his mouth. Under it is the following infcription : 
 
 . , S. Dominico 
 
 Ord. Prad.'"" SS. Rop ac S. Inq." Injiit. 
 Fidei Reparatori ac Orbis, 
 • ■,..■■ ... , J.. ,. Firo 
 Pietate eximio, Charitate optima, Religione maximo, 
 
 Patri 
 
 Devotiffimus Jiliiis pofuit 
 
 M.DCCXXIL 
 
 G 
 
 ' To St. Dominic, founder of the order of the predicants of the moft 
 
 * facred rofary, and of the holy inquifition ; the reftorer both of the faith, 
 
 * and reformer of the world ; a man eminently diftinguiflied for his extra- 
 
 * ordinary piety, extenfive charity, and zeal for religion, one of his moft 
 
 * dutiful fons, as to the father of his order, ered:ed this flatue in the 
 
 * year 1722.' 
 
 St. petei'y St. Peter 'i church, which belongs to the canons regular, is a beautiful 
 
 p") vs ftrudlure, adorned with elegant paintings. Here is kept the body of 
 
 Mana^gyp. St. Mary of Egypt, who, after fhe had fpent a diflblute life in her 
 
 tiaca. youth, became a perfedl pattern of repentance and mortification. Her 
 
 pidlure over the altar is not black ; and they are very much miflaken 
 
 who do not diftinguifh this faint from the virgin Mary, becaufe in fome 
 
 places fhe is reprefented of a black complexion : the latter is particularly 
 
 called Madonna di Loretto. 
 
 Auguftine'j The Augujlinci have a good library in their convent, and their church 
 
 chunk. gjj-Q exhibits feveral good pieces of painting. 
 
 The diftance from Creinojia to Mantua is forty Italian miles ; and about 
 Bozzolo. the mid-way between thefe two cities lies a pretty little town called Boz~ 
 z-c!o. It is fortified with a caftle, and is the chief place of a fmall princi- 
 pality of that name. Three miles from thence we paffed near S. Mar- 
 The Oeiio ^"^° '^^ Marcaria over the Oglio, which is a confiderable river. In winter, 
 after great rains, the road between Cremona and Mantua is almoft im- 
 BadroaM. paflablc, bccaufe of the foftnefs and depth of the foil ; as when we tra- 
 velled there after a long drought it was but very indifferent. This in- 
 Delightful conveniency is fully compenfated by the exuberant fertility of the whole 
 country. couutry ; and a perfon cannot fufliciently admire the verdure of the 
 fields and meadows, which are divided by beautiful rows of trees, with 
 abundance of vines twining round their trunks and branches. The 
 gi'eat number of nightingales that frequent this tradt of land, by their 
 3 plaintive
 
 MANTUA. 167 
 
 plaintive warblings at this fcafon of the year, make the charming fcene 
 ftill more delightful. Indeed a perfon who makes any ftay in Ilaly is fo ■^""^O' "/>' 
 accuftomed to fine profpefts and enchanting landfcapes, that in time 
 they grow familiar to the eye, and are lefs regarded than when they 
 firft prefented themfelves to his view. I am certain, however, that a 
 native of the mountainous parts of Franconia, Tirol, Sah-burg, the 
 forefl: of Hartz, the hilly parts of Saxony, or thofe who have always 
 lived in the woods of Thurifigen and Pomcrania, the fandy parts of Sile^ 
 Jia, the margravat of Brandenburg and Mecklenhcrg, or on the wild un- 
 cultivated heaths of Liinebiirg and Weftphalia, muft feel an uncommon 
 emotion, and be enraptured with a kind of vernal delight, when the 
 enchanting fcenes of Italy firfl ftrike their admiring eyes. 
 
 Mantua lies in a lake or morafs, caufed by the overflowing of the ^'^*"'"•''• 
 river Miucio. On the fide towards Cremona this morafs is not above two 
 or three hundred paces wide; but on the oppofite fide of the city it is about 
 an Italian mile in breadth. The river Mincio runs through Mantua, '^^^ "■^''''- 
 
 l\'l* 
 
 which is fortified with a good citadel ; but otherwife is more indebted to '""°' 
 nature than art for its ftrength. Claudian, in Sexto Conf. Hon. not 
 improperly, calls the river Mincio, 
 
 fardujque meatu 
 
 Mincius 
 
 ' The flow-winding Mincius *j' 
 
 And the vapours arifing in the fummer from the ftagnant putrid wa- Unhealthy 
 ters about this city render the air fo unhealthful, that no body would "''' 
 ftay in Mantua during that feafon, who could go any where elfe. This churches°'ind 
 city contains eighteen parifhe churches, and fourteen convents, which conijents. 
 are undoubtedly too many for a place that, exclufive of the imperial 
 garrifon (confiding at prefent of three or four thoufand men) has not Chriflian /«. 
 above ten thouiand inhabitants. The number of Jews at Mantua is fup_ ''-"'^"«'"'- 
 pofed to be four or five thoufand ; who have their Ghetto, or particular je 
 quarter, the gate of which is fhut every evening. They have alfo four or 
 
 * Virgil defcribes the Mincio in the fame manner : 
 
 Tardis ingens ubi fiexibus errat 
 
 Mincius, y tenera pratexit arundine ripas. 
 
 ' Where the flow Mincio thro' the valley ftray'd: 
 
 ' Where cooling flreams invite the flocks to drink, 
 
 *• And reeds defend the winding waters brink.' Dryden. 
 
 five 
 
 Jews,
 
 i68 MANTUA. 
 
 five fynngogues here; and the principal fynagogue is well built, and has 
 a fky-light, or large aperture in the roof. 
 Decay of No court is kept here at prcfent ; and fince the laft war the place is 
 
 ^rade. ^^^^^ much fallen to decay ; for a confiderable trade was formerly car- 
 
 ried on here, and the filk manufacflure particularly brought large fums 
 into the country. Of the flourifliing condition and origin of Mantua in 
 •ancient times, Virgil fpeaks thus in his tenth Mneid: 
 
 Ilk etimn patriis agmen ciet Ocntis ab oris 
 Fatidica Mcvitus, & Tbufci filius amiiis ; 
 ^i miiros, matrifque dcdit tibi, Mantua., nomen : 
 Matitiia dives avis, fed 7ion genus omnibus unum. 
 Gens illi triplex, popidi fiib gente quaterni ; 
 Jpja caput populis, Thufco de f anguine vires. 
 
 Ma. X. V. 198. 
 ' Ocnus was next, who led his native train 
 
 * Of hardy warriors thro' the watVy plain ; 
 
 ' The fon of Manto, by the Tujcan flream, 
 
 * From whence the Mantuan town derives the name : 
 ' An ancient city, but of mixt defcent, 
 
 ' Three fev'ral tribes compofe the government. 
 
 ' Four towns are under each ; but all obey 
 
 ' The Mantuan laws, and own the Tufcan fway. 
 
 Dry DEN. 
 
 Tamoiii mu. The trcafufy and curious mufeum, founded here by the duke, made 
 
 /mm. j^js (.jty yety famous in the laft century ; but as the imperial general 
 
 Cclalto took the city by ftorm, and plundered it on the 1 8th of 'Jtdy, 1630, 
 
 all the curiofities, which were worth fome millions, fell into the hands 
 
 ■of the foldiers, by whom they were partly deftroyed, and partly diflipated, 
 
 or fold to perfons who knew little of the value of fuch things. At that 
 
 time a common foldier was fo lucky as to get a booty of eighty thoufand 
 
 POTw^mw/ff/" dugats; but he was fo bad an oeconomift as to game it all away in one 
 
 p-odigahty. jiight, for which Colalto hanged him the next day. The few curiofities 
 
 collected here fince that time have fallen a prey to the public tumults that 
 
 happened in the prefent century ; the beft part of them having fallen to 
 
 hsprefcnt the fhare of the French by way of plunder. However, fome aparr- 
 
 (mdition. ments in the caftle are worth feeing, the cieling being painted by Giulio 
 
 Romano, and in which are fome tortoife-fliell cabinets, feveral tables 
 
 of Florentine-work, inlaid with very beautiful pieces of lapis lazuli 
 
 and agate ; fome marble ftatues and bufto's ; a Moor's head on a 
 
 pedeftai of white marble, with a turban curioufly inlaid, fo as exadly to 
 
 imitate
 
 MANTUA. 169 
 
 imitate a kind of Indian fluff j two large pieces of painting by V^alma ; 
 two f;ihersbyCo/?<2; four large pidures, reprefenting battles between the 
 Turks and Cbriftians ; a female faint in a chapel, painted by Annibal 
 Caracci. Here are alfo two galleries of portraits ; three falcons, which 
 are fomethuig dark, but well painted inyr^ro; however, but little care 
 is taken to preferve them. The large gallery that was formerly full of 
 ail forts of curiofities, contains nothing curious at prefent but four 
 large globes, with two of a fmaller fize; the fkin of a fea-ox fluffed, 
 and an old pifture of one of the Roman emperors, painted on wood by 
 Titian. The twelve C«yi/ri muff have been of an ineflimable value; but , 
 eleven of them are gone, and this is the only one left : the board on 
 which it is painted is alfo fplit. Befides this flaw, the piece has been 
 defignedly damaged by fome fpiteful or Ignorant perfon. In a clofet are 
 iikewife kept the fkeletons of feve>-al animals. The ducal palace is large 
 and fpacious ; but old, and built without any fymmetry or regularity. The 
 grotto's in the garden are entirely gone to ruin. The bell: thing here is the 
 academy, which indeed for the grotto- work, pillars, fculpture, galleries. Fine acadcmj, 
 and height, has not its equal of the kind. The riding-courfe belonging 
 to it is extremely well contrived. 
 
 The palace church contains a rich treafury of reliques, gold and filver T?ahce church. 
 crucifixes, flatues, and other altar-furniture. In it are alfo two large Paintings. 
 pidures, one of the baptifm of Conftantine the Greats and the other of 
 the martyrdom of St. Andrew^ both by Cojla^ otherwife called il Vecchio ; 
 and it is faid that a thoufand Louis-d'ors * have been offered for each 
 of thefe pieces. 
 
 Mantua is an epifcopal fee immediately dependent on the Pope. Giu- Cathedral, 
 lio Romano was the architeft of the cathedral, who alfo painted the Ts'i- 
 huna, and a part of the cieling. Here are alfo feveral pieces of painting 
 by other celebrated maflers, as the calling of Peter and Andrew to the 
 apofllefhip ; the martyrdom of a female faint, whofe breafls are torn off 
 with pincers ; but the finefl of all is a night-piece of S. Anto-nio del Fmco Majierfy pita 
 hy Paolo Verofieje. This pidlure is in the upper veflry, and cannot be ^-*!,*'- ^*''''" 
 viewed without admiration. Among the figures in this piece, a fat 
 comely woman is reprefented, fuch as Pack Veroneje feems to have been 
 particularly fond of; as in his other pi<5lures, and efpecially thofe of the 
 marriage of Cana, all his figures are very plump, and of a florid com- 
 plexion, and not one pale or meagre object is to be leen among them. Paul 
 Rubens and Van Dyke, who generally looked upon Paolo Veronefe as their 
 pattern, have alfo imitated Kim in this particular. The cathedral is very 
 fpacious, and divided by rows of pillars into live ifles. 
 
 * About 1000/. fterling;. 
 
 Vol. III. Z ' la
 
 lyo 
 
 St. Agnci'i 
 
 (lurch. 
 
 Its leaning 
 
 tower. 
 
 St. AndrewV 
 
 (burch. 
 
 Epit/tph on 
 
 Andrea 
 
 Mantegna. 
 
 Whether 
 Mantegna in- 
 •vented coffer- 
 flates. 
 
 MANTUA, 
 
 In the church of St. Agnes is to be feen a moft beautiful Ecce homo, 
 by Dolci. The tower of this church is obferved to lean a httle from 
 the perpendicular. 
 
 St. Andrew?, church is accounted the principal in all Mantua for a 
 large coUedlion of reliques *. 
 
 In a chapel on the left-hand in going into this church is a ftatue of 
 the famous painter Andrea Mantegna., in which fmall diamonds once 
 fupplied the place of the pupils of the eyes ; but they have been ftolen 
 away long fince. The inscription under it is as follows : 
 
 EjJ'e parent noris, Ji non praponis^ Apelli 
 Mnea MANTINIM qui fimidacra vides. 
 
 ' Reader, if thou haft feen the copper-plates engraved by Man- 
 ' teg7ia, thou wilt own that he was equal, if not fuperior, to 
 ' Apelles! 
 
 On the pavement the following words are cut in ftone : 
 
 OJfa Andrea Mantinia famojijjimi piBoris cum duobus Jiliis in fepulchro 
 per Andream Mantiniam nepotem exjilio conJiruBo repofita. MDLX. 
 
 * The bones of Andrea Mantegna^ a moft celebrated painter, with 
 ' thofe of his two fons, were depofited in this tomb, built by Andrea 
 ' ikf<2«/^^«^ his grandfon. 1560.' 
 
 Over the altar is a piece of painting by Mantegna, reprefenting the 
 birth of 'John the Baptiji. Andrea Mantegna, who was born in the year 
 145 1, and died in 1517, is by fome writers faid to have been the in- 
 ventor of engraving on copper-plates ; or rather, of the method of re- 
 prefenting paintings by prints : but this admits of fome doubt. For 
 when Valturt% treatife of the Art of war, which was printed at Verona 
 in the year 1472, and embellifhed with a great number of plates, repre- 
 fenting arms, military machines, fortifications, <^c. Andrea Mantegna 
 was but a youth. From this and feveral other circumftances, it may be 
 concluded, that Matteo Pajli was the engraver and printer of the 
 figures in that work. It does not indeed appear that Mantegna had any 
 fhare in the impreflion of JEJop\ Fables, which was publifhed in verfe 
 in the year 3479: not to mention the book publilhed by Cojler at 
 
 * Some obfervations on a relique kept here are omitted in the tranflation, as fcholaftic 
 and. trifling. 
 
 5 Haerlem.
 
 MANTUA. 171 
 
 TtJaerlem in 1 440 ; though it feems that the art which he invented rather 
 confifted in taking an impreffion from a piece of wood, containing all 
 the letters of one page (which is the invention we are fpeakingof) than 
 any thing like our prefent printing, by which fingle letters or types are 
 put together, and afterwards feparated again. It mufl:, however, be 
 owned, that if Mantegna was not the inventor, he at leaft made great 
 improvements in this art. 
 
 Near one of the fide-doors of this church is a very large bell of brafs, Perforated 
 but not of a proportionate thicknefs, in which there are eight oblong ^''^^' 
 holes, each of them being one foot broad, and three feet in length. 
 The defiign of this whimfical piece is not known ; for the fabulous ftory 
 that formerly its found was fo loud, as to throw pregnant women into 
 labour, and contribute to their delivery, is too abfurd to gain much 
 credit. 
 
 St. Andrews church is old, and contains no ornaments befides what -Sz-o^^ a»^ 
 I have taken notice of. The nave is of an extraordinary height, and is '"-^'^ ''°°-^" 
 twenty-feven paces in breadth. The main door is ornamented with 
 fome fine marble bajfo-relievo's, reprefenting flowers, fi?r. 
 
 In St. Giles's church lies Bernardo TaJJb, father of Torqitato TaJJb, the st. Giles'/ 
 celebrated Italian poet : of the monument of the latter I have fpoken '^/""■ch. 
 elfewhere. 
 
 Battijla Q)^ Mantua, a celebrated divine, philofoper, and poet of the T"-""*?/^ Bat- 
 fifteenth century, who was general of the Carmelite order, lies in the ""^^ «/Man- 
 Capella della Madonna, on the left-hand as you enter the church. I was 
 furprifed to find, that a perfon who had done fo much credit both to 
 the city, and to the order of which he was the head, was not honoured 
 with a monument. 
 
 On the oppofite fide of the church, facing this chapel, is a marble bafjo- 
 relievo, reprefenting a kind of trophy confifting of a lute, a violin, 
 a lyre, a trumpet, and other mufical inftruments j and in the center of 
 it is the following epitaph on a female finger : 
 
 Z 2 hiffice
 
 172 MANrUA, 
 
 Jfitafbona Infptce, Lcgc, Dejle ! 
 
 fmatejiogir. . CathariTia Martinclla Romana, 
 
 ^<g vocis modiilatione & Jicxu 
 
 Sirenum cantus, facile 
 
 Orbiumqiie ccekjlium melos prcecellebaty 
 
 Infigni ea virttite, morumfnavitate^ 
 
 Formd^ Lepore, ac Venujlate 
 
 Ser. Fine. Duci Mant. 
 
 J}pprime cara, 
 
 Acerbd eheu morte Jublata 
 
 Hoc tumiilo 
 
 BeneJicentiJJimi Principis jujfuy 
 
 Repentino adhuc cafu m(^rentiSy 
 
 JEternum qiiiejcit. 
 
 Nomen miindo, Deo vivat anima ; 
 
 Obiit adolejcentice fuce anno XV 111. 
 
 Die VIII. Mart. 
 
 MDCVIII. 
 
 * Behold this monument, read, and weep ! 
 * Catharina Martinella, a native of Rome, who by the fweetnefs 
 
 * and exquifite modulations of her voice, greatly furpaffed the fy- 
 ' reus, or even the harmony of the fpheres, and by her extraordinary 
 *• virtues, and fweetnefs of manners, her graceful mien, beauty, and 
 " wit endeared herfelf to his ferene highnefs Vincenzo duke of Mantua^ 
 
 * being fnatched away in her early bloom, here enjoys an eternal reft. 
 ' This tomb was erected by the above-mentioned beneficent prince, 
 ' whilft his grief was frefli for the lofs of this amiable young lady. She 
 ' died on the eighth day of March, 1708, in the eighteenth year of het 
 " age: May her fame live in this world, and her foul with God V 
 
 No mention is made in this epitaph of the lady's chaftity ; for as to 
 the panegyric that flie was infigni virtuti, many who know in what an 
 cxtenfive fenfe the words virtu and virtuofo are taken, will be apt to 
 imagine that this incomparable lady was a favourite miftrefs of the duke,, 
 and that it was not the lofs of a fine voice only which fo extremely af- 
 feded his highnefs. 
 
 Andreafio'j In this church is alfo a marble monument of a perfon called Andrea- 
 
 ^ ._. ^^^ which very well deferves a traveller's notice. 
 
 Giulio 
 
 sxtnument.
 
 MA N ru A. 173 
 
 Gullio Romano lies in St. Barnabas % church which belongs to the ScrviSt. Barnabas'/ 
 ^. Maria, or Servite monks ; but on account of the many alterations and '^"'' ' 
 repairs of that church, the fpot where that celebrated artift lies is not 
 known. Here is an admirable piece reprefenting the marriage o( Cana, 
 by Car/o Cignani Bolognefe. Near the church, and facing the Gonzagiie Giulio Roma- 
 palace ftands the houfe v/here Giu/io Romano lived, which is diftinguiQied "°"^ ''-"-"'/^• 
 by a fine ftatue of Mercury over the entrance. 
 
 At the yacobines or Dominicans I gave myfelf a great deal of trouble Dominican 
 in looking after the tomb of John de Medicis, father o^ Cojmo I. duke of '^*"" '• 
 Florence., whom fome fuppole to have been buried there ; but without 
 fuccefs, though the monks very obligingly affifted me in the fearch. But 
 1 faw there a fine marble monument of Pietro Slrozzi, and fome exqui- 
 fite pieces of fculpture in wood, both in the choir and in the veflry. 
 The remains of a faint called OJfana Andreajja is kept here with great 
 devotion. 
 
 About the high altar of the Theatine church hang feven large pieces of TheatineV 
 painting by Guercino. Here is alfo a piece reprefenting a martyr kneel- '^""^: . 
 ing before the executioner, and prefenting his head to be ftruck off, by 
 Luigi Caracci, who alfo painted a duplicate of it for the cathedral ; it 
 ftands between two fine pid;ures by Majjari, a difciple of Caracci. 
 
 The church of St. 'Thcrejia is remarkable for its altar and tabernacle 5/. Therefu"; 
 of curious inlaid work of agate, and the fineft forts of marble. On each ('^'"'<^''- 
 fide ftands an angel and another ftatue. 
 
 The cbieja di quarante bore has a beautiful front, and contains feveral Chiefadiquai 
 good pieces of painting, and eight ftatues, reprefenting David, Solomon^ ""''^ ^'^^'^• 
 and fome of the prophets, made of plafter, by the celebrated Barbarigo^ 
 On the outfide of this church, over the entrance, is a bajjb relievo of the 
 annunciation, with a ftatue on each fide of it. 
 
 In II Palazzo della Giiijlizta is a faloon that is remarkably, large. In Palazzo della 
 the wall is a ftatue of Virgil, fitting ; but the artift was not fo expert in Gmftizia. 
 fculpture as Virgil was in poetry. 
 
 Among the private edifices the principal are the palaces of count Man- Prii-aii fa^ 
 zelli, Valenti and Benedetto Sorti. ^'"■"• 
 
 The city of Mantua has three fuburbs on the other fide of the lake. Suburbs. 
 namely, Porta Fortejfa towards the north, II Borgo di S. Giorgio towards 
 the north-eaft, and // The towards the fouth. In the kft fuburb ftands 
 the Porta Virgiliana, over which is to be feen the bufto of Virgil. Porta Virgi- 
 Half a quarter of a league from thence lies // Palazzo di The, fo called I'l^p^i^^yj) d'. 
 from its being built in the form of the letter T. The imperial cuirafiiersThe. 
 are quartered on the ground-floor of this palace at prefent, who, it may' 
 well be fuppofed, will not leave it better than they found it. More care 
 has been taken of the upper apartments, on account of the fine paintings 
 5.- in
 
 1 74 VERONA. 
 
 in frejco ; for they are always locked up. GiitUo Romcuo drew the plan 
 and elevation of this palace ; and moft of the piftiires were painted from 
 his defigns, and not a few of them received the finifliing ftrokes from 
 his pencil. The moft admired pieces are the fall of Phaeton, and Ju^ 
 piter\ vidlory over the giants. 
 
 In going from the Porta Virgiliana, the left-hand road leads to 
 the duke's menagerie, which lies two Italian miles from Mantua^ and in 
 the way the Mincio, is ferried over. This place alfo is called Vir- 
 giliana ; and there is a tradition that the poet, from whom it derives its 
 name, ufed to ftudy here in a grotto. But at prefent it affords nothing 
 
 virgir. birth' worth a traveller's notice. Near it lies the village Pietola, anciently called 
 
 place. Andes y which was the birth-place of Virgil. 
 
 Mantua, April 26, 1730. 
 
 LETTER LXIX. 
 
 Account of the City of Verona. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 TH E diflance from Mantua to Verona is three pofl-flages, or four 
 and twenty Italian miles. On this road, within ten miles of the 
 Villa Franca, latter, lies Villa Franca, where are flill to be feen the walls of a fpacious 
 old caflle, or palace. On the left hand, the mountains of Trent, which 
 are covered with fnow, begin to prefent themfelves to the view. The 
 road is fomething flony, and the foil fhallow and poor ; however, the 
 rows of mulberry-trees and vines, with which it is planted, give the 
 country a pleafant afpeft. 
 Fraifet ef Ve- Verona has been celebrated in the following diflich : 
 
 rona, 
 
 TJrbibus Italia praftat Verona fuperhis 
 
 Mdibus, Ingeniis, Flumine, Fonte, Lacu. 
 
 * Verona furpaffes all the cities of Italy for fuperb buildings, the ge- 
 nius of its inhabitants, its river, fountain, and lake.' 
 
 Another
 
 VERONA. 175 
 
 Another poet has exprefled himfelf in thefe lines. 
 
 Verona qui te viderif, 
 Et non amarit protinus 
 Amore perditijjhno. 
 Is credo, feipfiim non atnat, 
 Caretque ama7idi Jerifibus 
 Et odit omnes grattas. 
 
 ' Verona, whoever fees thy beauties, and is not paflionateiy enamoured 
 ' of thy charms, I am apt to think, does not love himfelf, and is defti- 
 * tute of all fenfibility and tafte for elegance and beauty.' 
 
 However, as to its beauty, it will not bear a comparifon with moft of Verona tir- 
 the large cities in the fouthern parts of Italy. Moft of the ftreets of Ve-"^^"^^^- 
 rona are narrow, winding, and dirty, and the houfes are meanly built; 
 And as it ftands in a very pleafani^ country, when viewed from a neigh- 
 bouring eminence it appears much more beautiful than it is really found 
 to be upon entering it. Its fortifications are but contemptible, though 
 theyconfift of three caftles, namely, IlCaJlello Vecchio, S.Pietro, and San 
 Felice. That in the middle is faid in ancient times to have been a tem- 
 ple of Diana. The top of this caftle affords the beft view of the city. 
 The river Adige divides Verona almoft into two equal parts, which are 
 joined together by four ftone bridges. All thefe bridges are well built ; 
 but il Ponte niiovo deferves particular notice on account of the fine prof- 
 pedl that it yields of the country over the river, towards the mountain of 
 Cajlello S. Felice. The number of inhabitants at Verona, is, at prefent. Number of i,t. 
 computed to be no more than forty-nine or fifty thoufand ; whereas not ^"^i"^'^- 
 a century ago they exceeded feventy thoufand fouls. The beft ftreet in 
 the city is II Ctirjo, where the carnaval diverfions conclude with foot- n Curfo, 
 races, ©'r. Formerly common proftitutes were permitted to enter the lifts, 
 and to run for the prize ; but this cuftom has been juftly aboliflied, and 
 altered to a horfe-race, which is exhibited on Shr eve-Sunday, being the Hor/e-race 
 laft Sunday of the carnaval. The prize is a piece of gold-brocade, or 
 fome rich ftufF. The largeft piazza or area in this city is la Piazza pjazza d' ar- 
 d'armi, where the two annual fairs in fpring and autumn are held. On ">'• 
 this piazza ftands a marble ftatue reprefenting the republic of Venice, 
 under whofe jurifdidlion this city has been for fome centuries paft *. 
 The family of the Scaligeri, from which the learned Julius Qrfar Sca- 
 
 * Maffe'i in Verona lllujlr. P. iii. p. 20. fhews, that the Venetians draw yearly from the 
 territories of Verona above five hundred and fixty thoufand ducats, which are ec^ual to a. 
 hundred and twelve thoufand doppie, or Spani/h piftoles, 
 
 liger
 
 176 VERONA. 
 
 Tiger would fain derive his pedigree, were formerly lords of Verona ; but 
 the arrogancy of that learned critic was fmartly chaftifed by the poignant 
 wit of Scioppiiis -j-. One of the Scaligers, for his better fecurity, and to 
 keep the city in awe, eretfted within the fpace of three years not only 
 jtremarkabk the Callello Fccchio at the end of the Curjb ; but likewife built a bridge 
 '^"^^' over the ^dige, which is ftill in good condition, and deferves to be taken 
 
 notice of; for the diftance between the piers of the firft arch is feventy 
 feet, between thofe of the fecond eighty-two, and thofe of the third 
 arch a hundred and forty-two feet. There is at prefent a governor and 
 a fmall garrifon in the caftle. 
 
 Near the church of S. Maria ant'ica are ftijl to be feen fome monu- 
 ments of the Scaliger family, namely, three large and four fmall tombs. 
 The former reft on a fexangular work of gothick ftrudure, adorned 
 with fix ftatues, and the Scaliger arms, viz. a ladder and an eagle. 
 Palazzo della On the PaUizzo della ragione, or town-houle, the ftatues of five cele- 
 ragione. brated perfons, who were natives oi Verona, are eredted. Thefe are the 
 cehbraud fer- poets Catullui and MmiHui Macrus, the hiftorian Cornelim Ncpos, the fx~ 
 fins. mous naturalift Pliny the elder, and the architedt Vitriiviin, who lived in 
 
 the reign ol Augujiui. On a high arch ftands the ftatue of Gieronimo 
 Fracaftori, a learned phyfician, mathematician, and excellent poet, who 
 fiourilhed in the fixteenth century %• The Vero7iefe might juftly eredl fta- 
 tues to other illuftrious perfons who were their countrymen ; for Verona 
 was the birth-place of Potnponius J'ecundus, Peter Martyr a learned Do- 
 minican, Fra yocondo a great mathematician, Guarini Veroneje, one of 
 thofe learned men who reftored the fludy of the Greek language in Italy ; 
 the celebrated painter Paolo Vcronefe, and of the learned cardinal Henry 
 Nor is. 
 Chief magif- The chief magiftrates by whom the Venetians govern this province, 
 trutes. are the Podejia, and the Capitanco or General. All civil affairs are under 
 
 + The Veronefe, indeed, acknowledge yulim Cafar Scaliger for their countryman ; but 
 deny that he was defcended from the Scaliger family, who were lords of their city. They 
 particularly accufe his fon Jofeph Scaliger, that in his Epijhla de fplendore gentis fua, as alfo 
 in the Corifutatio Fabula Burdmmm, he has publifhed palpable falfhoods, and contrived a 
 mere fable, only in order to fupport his chimerical pedigree. See Maffei Veron. illujl. P. ii. 
 
 p. 1^6. feq. 
 
 t The marquis Maffei in Verona illujlrata. Part II. p. 178. treats at large of the life and 
 writings of Fracajiori, and likewife inierts a plate of a medal that was ftruck for him ; on 
 one fide of which is the head of Fracajhri ; on the reverfe, a burning altar, with a fer- 
 pent under the bafe ; and on each fide, a book, an armillary fphere, Apollo's lyre, and a 
 wreath of laurel, with this infcription on the exergue : 
 
 Minerva, Apoll. ^ Mfculap. facrum. 
 
 * Sacred to Mintrva, Apollo, and JEfculapius.' 
 
 the
 
 VERONA, ,77 
 
 the direcStion of the former, and the latter has the care of the mililary. 
 Both thefe continue in office no longer than fixteen months. A fine 
 houfe was begun for the Copitaneo or General, but it lies unfiniflied. 
 
 Among the private buildings in this city, the palace of count Mr^d'/ \^ BuUdinv 
 the molt fplendid and magnificent. It ftandson the Piazza de Mc'rcanti^ 
 and is ornamented with feveral ftatues on the roof, which is flat, like 
 thofe in the fouth part of Italy. I( is probably on account of the cold 
 weather and great quantity of fnow which falls on the high mountains 
 in the neighbourhood, that it is not ufual to build the roofs flat in thtfe 
 parts ; yet many flat roofs are to be feen at Infpruck where thefe incon- 
 veniencies are rather greater. 
 
 On the Piazzo de' Mercanti, or the merchant's fquare, is a ftatue ^^'SiatueofVc- 
 prefenting the city of Verona, or rather the republic of Venice, in arona. 
 female habit, with a crown on its head. The next for magnificence, Gfr. 
 to count Maffei?, palace, are the houfes of the counts Bevilaqua, Ca?toffa, 
 and the Signior's Verzi, Pompeii, and Pellegrini. 
 
 Formerly the moft fuperb palace in Verona, was that of the Venetian odoli fakce. 
 military comnliflary Odoli, or Lodoli ; the expence of building, and the 
 furniture, being computed at three hundred thoufand Jcudi, or crowns. 
 But all this pomp is now vanifhed, Odoli having been convifted of em- 
 bezzling to the amount of a million of the public money j for which he 
 was hanged at P'enice in the laft carnaval. The fplendid furniture is all 
 fold, and a great part of it gone to Modena. A miftrefs of Odoli, to 
 whom he allowed a grand equipage, very feafonably eloped with forty 
 thoufand crowns. His fon and lady, who had alfo their particular 
 coaches (the former fpending the public money as faft as his father em- 
 bezzled it) now live obfcurely in the country, on a fmall penfion allowed 
 them by the republic of Venice. 
 
 Oppofite the unfiniflied houfe, intended for the General, is an edifice philarmonic 
 where the members of the learned Philarmonic fociety hold their meet-^'^'^'^'^^J'- 
 ings. In the hall, which is very large, are the portraits of the Pat res, or 
 prefidents of this academy, who are always four in number. In an 
 apartment on the left hand are kept the old mufical inftruments with 
 which the nobility oi Verona formerly amufed themfelves ; and this gave 
 rife to the prefent foundation. Some centuries fince, there was a literary 
 fociety at Ancona who were termed Incatenati, which, according to an 
 infcription in the academy, were in the year 1543 incorporated with the 
 Philarnionici. The other apartments, which are intended for reading 
 public ledlures, are ornamented with the portraits of the moft eminent 
 members, with the following infcription : 
 
 Vol. III. A a Anm
 
 lyh VERONA, 
 
 Anno MDXLIII. ccetus Philarmonicus 
 Academicas leges fancit 
 Ac Mujis omnihiis lit at. 
 
 * In the year 1543, the Philarmonic fociety eflabhflied the laws of 
 ' this academy, and devoted themfelvcs to the mures.' 
 Ihe Philcti An apartment on the right hand is appointed for the ^refidents of the 
 Society. PhUolt, who are inftituted for the improvement of bodily exercifes, as rid- 
 
 ing, fencing, vaulting, dancing, &c. There is alfo in this building, a fine 
 theatre for exhibiting opera's and comedies ; which has five galleries, and 
 was built from a delign of the famous Francejco Bibiena, architedl to the 
 emperor. As the nobility aflemble here feveral times a week, to divert 
 themfelves with cards, (Sc. this theatre may be looked upon as a kind 
 of exchange for the Beau fnoude, and Lite7-ati of Verona. In one room 
 ftands the ftatue of a female of white marble, faid to have been found in 
 the ancient amphitheatre ; and fome antiquarians arc of opinion that there 
 muft have been originally feventy-two ftatues in all, though not the leaft 
 remains, or pedeftals on which they flood, are to be feen there. On the 
 Colhaion of outfide of this edifice are to be feen a great number of infcriptions, and 
 
 ancient tn/crip- , . ^ . . r i • i i ^ rr 
 
 rims. other remains or antiquity, many or which were dug up about Verona j 
 
 and that they may not be expofed to any future damage, from 
 the injuries of the weather, ^c. they are inferted in a long wall, facing 
 the fouth ; the T'ramoniafia, or north-wind, being found very detrimen- 
 tal to ftones. The firft in order are infcriptions confiding of cha- 
 radlers which are at prefent unknown, as the Egyptian, Punic, and Etru- 
 rian. Next to thefc are the Greek infcriptions, to the number of fixtyj 
 and after thefe come the Roman ancient monuments. Thofe reprefent- 
 ing the gods, and ancient facrifices, have the precedence ; one of which 
 is particularly taken notice of: it is a fmall idol of porphyry, with a 
 votary proftrate before it. Another remarkable piece, is a bajfo relievo 
 reprefenting Mercury, with fomething in his hand, which he reaches to 
 the earth under the fymbol of a woman, fitting. Over thefe two images 
 are the Greek names of Mercury and the earth, as follows, EPMH2 and 
 TH. After thefe are placed the infcriptiones Imperatorice, mihtares, Con- 
 fulares, Sepulchrales, Sec. 
 Mini of the In the proper arrangement of all thefe pieces, the marquis Scipione 
 mjr|»;/ Scipio Ma^ci has been at no fmall expence or trouble, and has fpared no pains 
 to increafe the number of them. On this account the gentlemen be- 
 longing to this academy have eredfed a marble ftatue of him over the 
 entrance of the palace, with thefe words : 
 
 Mar-
 
 F E R N A. I 
 
 79 
 
 Marchioni Scipioni Maffeio. ' Mommi„tin 
 
 AdhllC viventi honour of him. 
 
 Academla P hilar fno7iica 
 
 Decreto & oere publico. 
 
 MDCCXXFIL 
 
 ' Ereded in honour of the marquis Scipio?ie Maffei, who is flill living, 
 
 * by the Fhilarmonic academy, at their own expence. iJ2j'. 
 
 This honour was done him in his abfence, from a fuppofition that, 
 had he been prefent, he would not eafily have been prevailed upon to 
 give his confent, or at leafl: have raifed fome pretended difficulties. The 
 marquis Mqff'ei, muft be diftinguifhed both from count Maffei^ whofe 
 palace ftands on the Piazza de Mercanti ; and likewife from Paolo Alejfan- 
 dro Maffei, a Patritio or nobleman ol Volt err a., and knight of the order 
 of St. Stephen, who publirtied the life of pope Pius V. and fome other 
 very learned treatifes on antique ftatues, gems, infcriptions, and other 
 antiquities, and died at Rome in the year 1716. 
 
 In the marquis Scipio Maffei's palace, are to be feen feveral ancient Curiofitia /« 
 T)iploma\ or deeds j and he has inferted copper-plates of fome in his Hi- '"' ™"'eum. 
 lioria Diplomatica ; among which there is one of the year 445, which he 
 fuppofes to be the moll ancient original extant in Europe. He is alto 
 poffelTed of an original inftrument containing the decrees of the council 
 of Florence (like that famous MS. in the Florentine library, which is fo 
 much valued) and of feveral other manufcripts 5 a colleftion of antique 
 intaglio s, and vafes infcribed with Etrufcan charadlers *; with great num- 
 bers of medals, gems, paintings, ftatues, bufts, infcriptions, facrifi* 
 catory inftruments and other antiquities, and feveral curious petrefac- 
 tions. He is a very polite gentleman, and moft agreeable in converfa- 
 tion. Formerly he entertained no great efteem for the Germans; but 
 now he is thoroughly cured of that prejudice ; and, when he mentions 
 the Leipfic academy, he knows not how^ to praife it fufficiently. Pof- 
 fibly what may have contributed to this change was his Syftema de nata- HhSjflemm 
 libus fulminum, in which he maintains that thunder and lightning do not ''',^ "''p" "f 
 proceed from the clouds, but are generated near the earth in the atmof- ^' '""^' 
 phere or lower regions of the air. In Italy this opinion, at firft, was 
 cenfured as ,abfurd ; but profeflbr Richter of Leipjic adopted his hypo- 
 
 * Maffei, Fontanlni, Buonaroti, and Mariani, have for fome years paft applied themfelves 
 very affiduoufly to the old Etnifcaa language and antiquities ; tut hitherto their difcove- 
 ries feem to amount to no more than very uncertain conjectures. S«r Ham Sham, of Lon- 
 don,, has alfo feveral Etrnjcan infcriptiojis in his mufeum. 
 
 A a 2 thelis,
 
 8o 
 
 Tie Calceob 
 niufeuiii. 
 
 That of evint 
 Mofcarci. 
 
 Of count Be- 
 vilaqua. 
 
 and maintained 
 
 Capocuco'j 
 
 Cabinet of 
 (Cunt Giuili. 
 
 Saibanti's col- 
 lUiqn of tr.a- 
 nufcrifts. 
 
 The chapter's 
 
 F^E^^O N A. 
 
 thefis, and maintained it in an elaborate treatife publifhed in the year 
 1725, which, as it tended to enhance Mdffct% reputation in tiie republic 
 of letters, could not but be highly agreeable to him. 
 ' Formerly the Calceolari mufeum at Verona was fo famous, that in the 
 year 1622 a defcription of it was publiflied with the following title : 
 Froncifci Calceolarii Mujcxum a Bencd. Certito, Medico, inceptu??:, Qf ab 
 Andrea Chiocco perJeSliim, & in vi partes divifum. But at prefcnt it is 
 totally difperfed, and nothing is to be feen of it under that name. 
 
 Mifon [Tome I.) gives a very accurate account of the celebrated col- 
 lection of count Mofcardi ; more curious particulars of which may be 
 feen in NotCy overo Memorie, del Mufeo del Conte Ludovico Mo/car do, Vero- 
 jicfe, publiflied at Padna in 1656, and at Verona in 1672. For fome 
 years paft that mufeum is not to be feen ; either becaufe a great part of it 
 has been difpofed of, or on account of the ignorance and churlifl:inefs of 
 the prefent owner. 
 
 Count Mario Bevilaqiia has a fine collection of ancient ftatues ; among 
 which is a marble P'e)nis in the attitude of the Venus de Medicis ; a ftatue 
 oi Hcrmophraditus like the BorgheJ'e ; Bacchus, a Bacchanalian, and a. Ceres, 
 all exquifitely done. Among the great number of bufto's thofe of Augiijlus, 
 Livia, Tiberius, Trajan, Lucius Vcrus, Commodus and Septimius Severus, 
 deferve a particular attention. Among the ba£o relievo's in this collec- 
 tion that oi "Jupiter Amnion is the beft. Here are alfo feveral fmall ftatues 
 of bronze, a great number of medals, and likewife a fine fet of paint- 
 ings ; the principal among the laft are, a reprefentation of paradife by 
 Tintoretii, and a Venus half naked viewing herfelf in a looking-glafs held 
 by an Amoriiio or Cupid, by Paolo Veroneje. 
 
 A gentleman of the name of Capociico has made a coUedlion of feveral 
 fmall ftatues of bronze, and models of all kinds of military engines, in- 
 ftruments, and arms ; as cannons, mortars, ^c. of brafs. But they are 
 now to be fold, and are valued at two thoufand SpaniJJ} piftoles. 
 
 Count Gomberto Giufti is a great connoiffeur in medals, of which he 
 has a numerous and valuable colle<5lion. He is alfo fond of other curiofi- 
 ties which he has not neglefted j efpecially paintings. 
 
 Giovan?2i Saibanti is very curious, and fuccefsful in colleding ma- 
 nufcripts ; of which he is mafter of above thirteen hundred. The mod 
 remarkable MS. that he is poffcfTed of, in my opinion, is the four 
 evangelifts in Greek, written about the clofe of the 13th century, in large 
 round charadters. The fame gentleman has alfo a colledtion of antiques 
 and natural cuiiofities. 
 
 The chapter-library contains a great number of curious manufcripts t. 
 
 t The moft valuable of thefe, and likewife of Saibanti's collection, are taken notice of 
 by Maffci in his Verona illujhata, P. iii. f. 244, ^ feq. 
 
 Anti-
 
 VERONA. ,8j 
 
 Antiquarians may meet with a moft valuable piece at Verona, which Awphuheatre. 
 gives a clearer idea of the fpedlacles or public diverfions of the ancient 
 Romam than any other edifice now extant ; I mean the celebrated am- 
 phitheatre, which through a fuccelTion of fo many centuries has, by the 
 commendable care and attention of the inhabitants, been kept in fuch 
 good repair, that, in this reped, it is far preferable to, though not fo 
 large as, Vejpafian\ amphitheatre at Ro7ne. This noble flrudture, ac- l'^ antiquity. 
 cording to fome, was built in the reign of AugiiJIus : however, there is 
 but little probability that fuch a fuperb and fumptuous edifice would be 
 fet on foot in a province of Italy before the capital of the empire, which 
 was not adorned with any thing equal to it till Fefpa/ians time. To this 
 maybe added the filence of Pliny the elder, whofe accuracy in the enume- 
 ration of the mofl; celebrated edifices and artifts of his time, and particu- 
 larly of what concerned his native place, would not have fufFered him to 
 omit a ftru(!ture of this nature, which does fo much honour to Verona. 
 A farther argument is adduced, that during the firft century no fuch 
 amphitheatre was to be feen at Verona ; for Pliny the younger, who was 
 alive towards the clofe of Trajan% reign, makes no mention of it, thouo-h^ 
 in lib. vi. ep. 34, he is fo particular in defcribing the fpedacles and 
 fliew of gladiators given at Verona by his friend Maximus, in honour of 
 his deceafed wife. On the other hand, this amphitheatre cannot be 
 dated much later than this, as it is a ftrudure which bears in it the 
 marks of the flourifliing ftate both of architefture, fculpture, and of the 
 Roman empire. 
 
 The marquis Maffei, whom I have already mentioned with the refpedl Maffei'j Sf. 
 due to fo learned a man, is at prefent engaged in a curious treatife which finaiion on 
 is to be entitled Verona illuftrata *, and of which a part was publiHied "'"P^"''''""'"' 
 two years ago at Verona, as a fpecimen of this noble undertaking, and of 
 the elegance and accuracy with which it is executed. It enters into a 
 very accurate diiquifition concerning the antiquity of amphitheatres in 
 general, and particularly of that of Verona. It were to be wiflied that 
 perfons of equal talents and application would alfo favour the world with 
 their conjedlures concerning the amphitheatres of Rome, Capua, and 
 Ni/ines f. 
 
 According to Maffei's meafurement, the longed diameter of the am- Geometrical 
 pbitheatre oi Verona, from the firfi: arch of the main entrance to the op- "'^fl'll'"""^ 
 pofite arch is four hundred and fifty /^^ro/zf/^ feet, and its greateft breadth amphuhcatie. 
 three hundred and fixty. The length of the area within the walls, ac- 
 cording to his computation, is two hundred and eighteen feet, fix inches; 
 
 * This was publifhed M Vermin, in folio, in the year 1732. 
 
 f MajJVis work is entitled De gli J/iftcc/tri, e /mgolarmente ddVeronefe, libri due, in Verona^ 
 1728. 
 
 the
 
 i82 r E R N A. 
 
 the breadth a hunded and twenty-nine ; and the outward circuit of the 
 whole edifice a thoufand two hundred and ninety feet. The Verona foot 
 is exadlly one third more than the Roman palmi, which is ufed in archi- 
 tedlure. Its prefent height indeed is but eighty-eight feet; but, from 
 evident marks on the walls, it appears to have been at firfl: a hundred 
 and ten, or a hundred and twenty feet high. The loweft row of feat3 
 is as it were buried in dirt and rubbilTi ; but if we include this, the num- 
 ber of the rows of feats or fteps rifing one above another to the higheft 
 gallery, amounts to fifty-four. This method of building amphitheatres 
 was the moft convenient for holding a vaft number of fpe<fl:ators in fuch a 
 manner, that the neareft row did not intercept the view of the Arena from 
 Kumberof thofe who fat at the greateft diftance. If we allow a foot and a half 
 jpetiators it f^j. ^^^.j^ Dcrfon, the amphitheatre at Verona afforded room for twentv- 
 two thouland one hundred and eighty-four ipeaators. 1 he internal 
 Comparedwith area of the Colyfcetitn at Rome does not gteatly exceed it, as, according to 
 that at Rome. pQf2*ana, the length of that edifice is but five hundred and fixty-four 
 Verona feet; its breadth four hundred and fixty-feven j the internal area 
 two hundred and feventy-three feet long, and a hundred and feventy- 
 three broad, and the circuit of the whole building one thoufand five 
 . hundred and fixty-fix Verona feet. According to this computation the 
 colyfaufn at moft contained but thirty or thirty-four thoufand perfons. 
 In the colyfaum none of the feats are now remaining. The amphitheatre 
 of Verona is much more perfedl, and has no holes or chafms in the wall. 
 However, it muft be owned that the prefent edifice is not merely the an- 
 cient ftrudlure, but that it owes its good condition to fubfequent repairs, 
 many of which are the work of the moderns *. The new-inlerted ilones 
 may be eafily diftinguirtied from the ancient work, which is much neater. 
 SSlT "^ "T^^ height of the" feats is not the fame in all ; but is generally a foot 
 and five inches, and the common breadth two feet and two inches. 
 Near the twenty-fixth row, reckoning from the bottom, there is one fo 
 narrow, as to be fcarce fit for a feat, which, for this reafon, ap^-icars not 
 to be the work of antiquity, but of the moderns who repaired it. The 
 ancient feats are of red marble ; but the modern repairs of a red friable 
 
 * With this account given by the author may be compared the following defcription of 
 this amphitheatre from Dr. Burnetts Travels, p. ii8, 119. * The known antiquity of" 
 
 * Verma is the amphitheatre, one of the leaft of all that the Romans built, but the beft 
 
 * prefen'ed ; for moft of the great flones of the outfide are picked out ; yet the 
 
 * great Hoping vault, on which the row s of the feats are laid, is intiie ; the rows of the 
 ' feats are alfo intire ; thev are four-and-twenty rows ; every row is a foot and a half hifjh, 
 *• and as much in breadth ; ib that a man fits conveniently in them under the feet of thofe 
 ' of the higher row ; and allowing every man a foot and a half, the whole amphitheatre 
 ' can hold twenty-three thoufand perfons. In the vaults under the rows of feats were the 
 ' flails of the wild beafts that were prefented to entertain the company. The thicknefs 
 
 * of the building, from the outward wall to the loweft row of feats, is ninety feet.' 
 
 5 ftpne ;
 
 VERONA. 183 
 
 flone ; and for greater conveniency, as the ftone feats were very cold 
 to fit upon, they were covered with boards, and alfo with cufliions for 
 perfons of quality. See D/o, lib. lix. Hence it appears, that an amphi- 
 theatre built with ftone might receive feme damage by fire. There are 
 in this amphitheatre feparate ftone ftair-cafes, by which the fpedlators 
 afcended to their feats from the vaults below. The apertures from 
 thefe ftair-cafes into the rows of feats, on account of the multitudes of 
 people crowding, and as it were pouring through to fee the fpedacles, are, 
 by Macrohius, Saturn, lib. vi. cap. 4. called Vomitoria. The number vomitoria. 
 of Ao;«/Vcr/^ within this amphitheatre are fixty-four, being difpofed in 
 four rows. 
 
 On the outfide of this amphitheatre are twenty-feven arched en- Entramn, 
 trances *, and the key-ftone of each of thcfe arches is numbered ; fo 
 that every clafs of the people being informed where they were to go 
 in and come out of the amphitheatre, no confufion or difturbance could 
 arife. Thefe arches are for the moft part eleven feet eight inches wide, 
 and eighteen feet high. The lower part of the pillars are buried about 
 four feet under the prefent furface of the ground, as appears by the an- 
 cient main entrance, where the earth has been cleared away. The ba- 
 luftrades over the entrances are a modern work ; two galleries over the 
 lower arches reprefent as it were the fecond and third ftories. No pe- 
 deftals have been found either in this amphitheatre, or in that at Rome ^'^^'Ji^J '^" 
 mentioned above; from which we may conclude, that it was not ornz-'^^^^' ^^"^["^ 
 mented with ftatues in any other part but over the main entrance : and if, mented ^ith 
 on any particular folemnity, ftatues were erected in thefe amphitheatres,^'"""- 
 they muft have been but fmall, and remained but a fliort time there. 
 Thefe moveable ftatues may probably be the figures ftill to be feen on 
 fome ancient medals that reprefent amphitheatres; plates of which are 
 inferted in Maff'ei's work mentioned above. Indeed few or no frag- 
 ments of ftatues have been dug up near this amphitheatre. The ftones 
 of the ancient part of this edifice are not cemented together, but only 
 faftened withfew iron cramps or braces. The beft print of this ancient 
 ftrufture is given us by Maffei. 
 
 It is no wonder that fuch a fuperb theatre fhould be built at Verona., Whether the 
 preferably to many other cities; for all hiftorians agree, that in the times '""Af'''*'''"'''^ 
 of the ancient Romans, this City was very large and populous. It does fodjle^eid 
 not appear that this amphitheatre like that at Rome could be laid under um/crivater.. 
 water, as the furface of the river Adige is fome feet lower than the area 
 of it, and as no traces of any aquedufls are to be feen near it. On the 
 other hand, fome arches are fliewn in the water below S. Pietro, fup- 
 
 *■ That at Rome has eighty, and that of Nifmes fixty arches. 
 
 pofcd.
 
 ,84 VERONA. 
 
 Naumachia. pofed to be remains of a Namnacbia, which was not Aipplied from the 
 AcU'S'c, as that river did not flow in ancient times thro' the City, but 
 from the Eminences oi Morrtorio and Avefa, from whence it was conveyed 
 to Verona by leaden pipes. Both thele places are about two Italian miles 
 from the city ; and the leaden-pipes, which are ftill kept in repair, are 
 laid over abridge and furnifh feveral private houfes with fredi water. 
 Mcient ccwfe Q^ the left-hand of the road leading ivomVercna to Ca/}cllo Fcccbio 
 «y//xAdige. ji^g ancient courfe of the ^r%r, before it was diverted into the City, is 
 ftill to be feen. There is but a very narrow fl:ream at prefent in the 
 old channel of this river*. 'Tis fuppofed with as litile certainty that 
 there were three triumphal arches in and near Verona. That •!• near Ca- 
 flello Vecchio is attributed to the family of theG<^wV; another in the Via 
 Leoni to Flaminiiis ; a third in the Curfo to Marius ; and a fourth in the 
 fame place, confifting of two fimular arches io Galienus. It is too com- 
 mon among antiquarians to dignify the remains of old city gates with the 
 name of triumphal arches ; to which honour none of thofe ancient re- 
 mains, which have two fimilar gates near each other, are in any wife 
 entitled. For the triumphal arches always confifted either of one large 
 arched entrance only, or with a fmall one on each fide. 
 Alterathn of prom the depth of the rubbifli and earth about the foundations of the 
 fhe{'ltT."°"'''^ ^ovQ mentioned remains of antiquity, it may be concluded that the an- 
 Triumphal cicnt fituatiou of the city was much lower than the prefent. On the 
 arches. Hdc of Gall enus's triumphal arch, as it is called, that faces the country, 
 
 there was formerly an infcriptlon, which at prefent is' not legible. Vig- 
 nier has publillied a plate of it in his Bibliotheca Hiftorica, as it then 
 flood, which evidently fhews that inftead of a triumphal arch this flruc- 
 ture is no more than a common gate. The words of the infcription as 
 tranfcribed by that author are : Colonia Augufta Verona Gallieniana. Va- 
 leriano II. l^ Lucilio Coff. muri Veronenjiiim fabricati, ex die III. Non 
 April, dedicati prid. No. Decemb. jiibente SanciiJJimo Galieno Aug. N. 
 Over the two arches are fix apertures like windows difpofed in two rows, 
 CampusMar- Near the city ol Verona is a fine plain, which is called by the name 
 ^'"^' o{ Campus. Martins^ where the people are muftered and perform their 
 
 A yearly fair, military exercifes. In the year 1712, the booths or fliops for the annual 
 fair held on the Campus Martins till that time, were burnt down j and 
 for greater fecurity and convenlency, the fair has been fince that 
 time kept in the Piazza d'armi, within the city, where the fliops are 
 curioufly difpofed. From the middle of the fair there are eight vifto's 
 
 * Maffei in Veron. Uhiflr. Pmt I. 38. affirms, that the courfe of the Adlge was always 
 the fame as it is at prefent. 
 
 t On this arch the name of the Architeft is ftill legible, Lucius Vitrtfvius Cerdo, who 
 is thought to have been a freeman of the famous Viiruvius. 
 
 3 along
 
 V E R N A. 185 
 
 along fo many rows of Hiops. Befides thcfe ftreets or lanes, there are 
 four fpacious areas formed by the dilpofition of the booths ; and over the 
 lanes between them canvafs is fpread to fhelter the company from the 
 rain and the fun. Sdpioi2e Mqffei has prefixed a copper-plate of this fair 
 to his mifcellaneous works. The trade of this city might be put on ^.T'^^de and ma- 
 much, better foot than it is at prcfent. «'^^^aures oj 
 
 The chief commodities that the Vcroneje ivzde. in, are phyfical plants*, 
 which are gathered on Monte Baldo, olives, (thofe of Veroiia being 
 reckoned very good) oil, wine, with linen, woollen, and filken manu- 
 factures. The neighbouring places indeed are no lefs plentifully provided 
 with fuch commodities ; but whether greater vent for them might not 
 be opened at Venice, &cc. is well worth their confideration. 
 
 The goodnefsof the ^Iro/M wine is mentioned by Pliny, Hiji. Nat. lib. Verona vslne. 
 XIV. c.b. Virgil. Georg. 2. and Cajiodorns Var. Lib. XII. 4. The beft 
 wines at prefent, produced in the neighbourhood of this city, aretwo forts 
 of white wine, one of which \?, c3\{td.Garganico bianco, and the other 
 Vino fanto. The latter, in my opinion, is the befl, and has fomething 
 of the flavour of the o\6. Hungarian wines. Some think that this is the 
 wine which CaJJiodonis c.ills V iniini Acinatician. 
 
 There is a very commodious water-carriage from hence to Venice. Canal to Ve- 
 The paffage in a barge takes up but three days and a half; but the re-"''^^* 
 turn is more tedious ; for the barge is drawn by oxen, fo that it is not 
 performed in lefs than eight days. 
 
 In the cathedral of Verona are to be feen fome good pidtures by Bel- Cathedral 
 lini, Balejlra, and Paolo Veronefc. The font is large, and adorned with 
 BaJJo-rclievd s : it is cut out of one block of marble. Lucius III. whofe Epitaph of Lm- 
 narae before he was exalted to Papal Dignity wzs HumbaUus Lucea,'^^^^^^' 
 lies here with the following epitaph : 
 
 OJa 
 Lucii in. Pont. Max. 
 Cut Roma ob invidiam ptdfo Verona tutijf. ac gratijjimiim perfiigium 
 fuity ubi cowventu Clmjlianonim aSlo, dum praclara mult a molitur e 
 '■oita excejjit. 
 
 ' Here are depofited the remains of Pope Z,r/aa; III. to whom, when 
 * baniflied thro' envy from Rome, Verona afforded a fafe and agreeable 
 ' retreat, where, whilft he was concerting feveral great defigns in a Synod, 
 ' he departed this life.' 
 
 * Vide Plantte five Shnplida, ut vocant, qua In Baldo Monie cs in Via ah Vcroua ad Baldum 
 reperiuntur, per Job. Pan, Pbarmacopittim Veroncnfcm, Bafil. 1608, \to. 
 
 Vol. III. B b lie
 
 i86 VERONA. 
 
 He died in 1 185, after he had fat in the papal chair four years, two 
 months, and fourteen days, with much diflurbance, and but an indiffe- 
 rent charadler. 
 
 Kevcutic ofthi The biflioprick of Verona brings in four or five thoufand fcudi a year. 
 
 ^'^- On the left hand, near the entrance of the epifcopal palace, is feen a 
 
 large marble ftatue of a woman, with the following infcription, con- 
 taining the Sculptor's name, under it. 
 
 AleJJ'andro Vittoria Frid. F. 
 
 frj:nt hi/hop's The uppcf apaftmcnts of this palace are ornamented with marble 
 "^(^'"""ff"- hudos of ^grippina the mother of Nero, yuli a the daughter of T//z/s, 
 ''^'' MeJTalina, Malidia, Faiijiina the daughter of Antoninus, Julia the 
 
 daughter oi Aiigujlus, &nd Lucili a of L. Verus ; thofe of Aurelia the 
 mother of Julius Cafar, Seleucus, Julius Cafar, Marcus Brutus, Cali- 
 gula, Antinous, Juba king of Mauritania, Septimius Severus, Heliogabu- 
 lus, and Scipio Ajricanus, together with a ftatue of Venus coming out of 
 a bath, and many other pieces coUeded by the prefent bifhop of Vero7ta, 
 who is of the Trevifani family. 
 Carmelite In Verona, there are convents of Carmelite monks both calceati and 
 
 church. difcalceati. In the church of the former is a beautiful altar of fine 
 
 marble ; and in their veftry, a fine piece of painting by one of the 
 difciples of the celebrated Raphael, reprefenting our Saviour, when a 
 child, playing with John the Baptift, and the Virgin-mother, looking 
 with great complacency, on their mutual fondnefs and fportive in- 
 nocence. 
 Church of the In the church of the difcalceati, or barefooted Carmelites, are to be 
 Difcalceati. ^^^^ ^i^^.^^ ^^^ altars, the firft of which is adorned with pillars of Verde 
 antico, the fecond with pillars of a red and white veined marble, and 
 the third with yellow marble pillars. The high altar is likewife of beau- 
 Baleftra.a^W tiful marble, and finely executed : It is alfo embellifhed with a pidure 
 iainter. of the annunciation, which does great honour to Antonio Balejira, who is 
 
 ftill living at Cremona. This Artift is in high repute, and has painted 
 many pieces which have been fent into England and Germaiiy. 
 Dominican The Dominican church is dedicated to St. Anaftafm. Near the en- 
 ihurch. trance of this church, on the right hand, a fuperb monument is eredled 
 
 Tomb of Gene- to Giovanni Fregoji, a Genoefe officer, who raifed himfelf by his merit to 
 r«/Fregofi. ^g commander in chief, by Cataneo di Carrara. I could not but take 
 cr- L 1 notice here of* a very great impropriety, namely, the holy- water veffels 
 ^ums Support at the entrance of the church are fupported by two grotefque figures, 
 fi"-M-'^^"«''reprefenting harlequins or buffoons. The front of the church is partly 
 ■^""fi- 5 adorned
 
 VERONA. 187 
 
 adorned with good marble ' hajfo-relievo s ; but that "work has been dif- 
 continued. Before the church ftands the tomb of Count Cajielbarro. 
 
 St. Euphemia?, church is adorned with fome good paintings. On the St. Eupbemia'i 
 high altar ftands a curious marble tabernacle; before it are two beautiful '''"'''''' 
 brafs ftatues, with eight others of plafter. In other refpeds it is a mean 
 edifice, neither is the cieling arched. 
 
 In the Jejuits, or St. Baftiano% church, the high altar is adorned je/uit'sthunh. 
 with fome fine pillars of Mifchia di Brentonico, a kind of marble found 
 in this country. Here is alfo a white marble ftatue of St. Sebajltan^ and 
 likewife fome fine pidlures, being ornaments that are common to moft , 
 churches in Italy. 
 
 The Church and Convent di S. Giorgio belong to the BenediSline St. dofgie, 
 monks. On the outfide over the church door is this extravagant infcrip- '^'■""''^'■'• 
 tion : 
 
 Numini Sau^o propiiiato hfcription. 
 
 Divi Georgii 
 
 Pollentis, poteiitis, inviSti 
 
 Pie., rite, folenmitus 
 
 Sacrum dicatiim efto. 
 
 * Let this church which has been confecrated with folemn rites, be 
 * dedicated to the holy, powerful, ftrong,' invincible, and propitious 
 ' Deity of St. George.' 
 
 Over the door is the Baptifm of Chrill, painted by Tintorretto. On Paintings. 
 the high altar is a piece reprefenting the martyrdom of St. George, by 
 Paolo Feroncfc, and on one fide near it our Saviour feeding five thou- 
 fand men, by Paolo Faranati, who was feventy-nine years of age when 
 he painted this piece. Few of this mafter's works are to be feen in 
 Italy, except at Verona ; moft of his time having been fpent in painting 
 the Efci/ri aim Spain. On the other fide, is a very fine reprefentation 
 of the IJraelites gathering of manna, by Felice Brufaforzi : This piece is 
 twenty-four Veroneje feet in length, and twenty-three broad. Here is 
 another piece, by the fame hand, which reprefents St. Johh vifion in 
 die apocalypfe, of Michael with his angels protefting a woman and her 
 child againlt the Dragon*. Whether it be confiftent with the myftery 
 of this vifion, that the child fliould be reprefented, as it were, crying 
 out in an agony of fear, I fliall not difpute. Here is alfo Barnabas heal- 
 ing the fick man, by Paul Veroneje. Oppofite to this piece is the virgin 
 Mar'^ betwixt two bifliopSj by Girolamo da i Libri : The carpet on 
 
 * Revelation, cap. xv. 
 
 B b 2 which
 
 i88 VERONA. 
 
 which the virghi ftands, is juftly admired. Domcnico Ricci, furnamed 
 Bnifaforzi, and Father to Felice, has alio dilplayed his Ikill in this 
 church, which is one of the fineft in the city. 
 Chiefa della. In the church of the hofpital della Mifericordia, or the Incurables^ is 
 niifencordia. an exquifite P/>/^, or the virgin Mary viewing the dead body of Chrift 
 d'Orbetto //?'^ after he was taken dov/n from the crofs, by Alejfatidro Turchi. This" 
 tmnto'. celebrated painter, otherwifc known by the name of ^'Ori^6'//o, which 
 he had when he was a poor boy, and ufed to lead about a blind man, 
 till, very fortunately for him, Felice Bnifaforzi happening to fee him 
 drawing figures with charcoal on a wall, concluded that he had a genius 
 for defigning, and took him under his care *. 
 Olivetan The Olivet at! church, or Madonna in Organo, has a very fuperb altar, 
 
 church, paint- ^^^ ^ great number of excellent paintings. Among which, a Madonna 
 Gratioja by Anto7iio Baleftra is none of the worft. The aflumption of 
 the vivgm Mary and the maffacre of the Innocents in theTribuna, are by 
 Paolo Farinati. The ftalls in the choir are of wood, curioufly inlaid, by 
 Seliques of Giovanni Veroneje a lay-brother of the Olivetan convent. Here was alfo 
 '*' ' ■ formerly kept a wooden afs, within the belly of which, as fome fimple 
 
 credulous people are perfuaded, were kept the remains of the afs on 
 which Chrift made his entry into 'Jeriijalem. The ftory of this afs, and 
 its travels thro' various countries, till it died at Verona, where it was 
 kept with great veneration, is related by Mijfon, T. I. p. 164, ^ feq. 
 with feveral entertaining circumftances ; but with fuch farcafms on this 
 and other fuperftitious cuftoms which he met with in his travels, as will 
 not eafily be digefted by the Roman catholicks. The Veroneje particu- 
 larly refent his charge againft them, as he fo far expofed their fondnefs 
 for the relicks of the yewijlj afs, as to fubjeft them to the ridicule of a 
 nickname J. They objc6t in their defence, that MiJJon muft have re- 
 ceived his information from no better authority than the chamber-maids, 
 or boys at the inn, who had a mind to divert themfelves with his credu- 
 lity, adding, that all perfons of fenfe in Verona entertain very different 
 thoughts of the affair ; and that if this wooden afs formerly made a part of 
 the procefHon on Corpus Chrifti day, it was only for the more lively re- 
 preientation of a part of the laft fcene of our Saviour's life, namely his 
 entrance into 'Jerufalem. I have alfo feen a wooden afs of this kind with 
 the image of our Saviour fitting on it, in the church of our Lady at 
 Halle near Brujfels, w^here it is annually carried in a procefTion for the 
 
 * He died in 1648. See Muffei Venn. Illujlr. P. III. p. 165. 
 
 X Concerning the calumny with which the heathens branded the Jeivs, charging them 
 with worfliipping an afs, which defcended to the chriftians, who were called Afmmii, on. 
 a fuppofition that they worfliipped the head of an nfs, k^TerUilhan JpoL <:. 1 6, and alfo 
 Morlho/t in Pagan obireft, lib, II. c, I.. 
 
 fame.
 
 and tiati- 
 
 VERONA. 189. 
 
 fame purpofe ; and I have been affured, that to charge all the Fcronefe 
 in general, with the ridiculous opinions held by the vulgar about this 
 wooden afs, is doing great injuftice to feveral perfons of eminent fenfe 
 and learning *. However, feveral particular circumftances may be ad- 
 duced in fupport oi Miffbn^ relation, efpecially his mentioning the per- 
 fon from whom he had his account, namely, one Montel, a French 
 merchant, who had lived a confiderable time at Verona. ^\\&nz^&r- Particular /u- 
 fon fpeaks ingenuoufly of the fuperftitious cuftoms of a place, it is \xndtr-P^'J^'''<'""'/''il 
 ftood, that thole inhabitants who have banilhed fuch prejudices bv the^"^' 
 light of reafon, ftudy, and refledtion, are not included in the lump/"^' 
 No city is fo defpicable but one intelligent perfon may be met with in it ; 
 yet is there no city in which fome fuperftitious cuftoms and opinions do 
 not generally prevail. How low the vulgar may fall, with regard to 
 fuperftition, is evident from experience and the hiftories of ancient and 
 modern times. No nation, no fedl, is free from this infedlion ; but 
 certainly thofe nations are moil fubjedl to this evil, whofe fyflem of re- 
 ligion either too much reflrains, or utterly prohibits them the ufe of their 
 reafon. Are there not innumerable fables concerning the afs, on which 
 our Saviour made his entrance into Jerufalc!?!, current alfo in other 
 countries ? And is there not fliewn on the road from Tubingeti to Hild- 
 ritzhauj'en, feveral holes on two broad ftones, of which the vulgar of thofe 
 parts have retained a tradition lince the popifli times, that they were the 
 prints which the fame afs's feet made in his travels through Sivabia^ 
 where the animal loon after died. 
 
 I have often confidered with myfelf whether it be not pradlicable for 
 a proteftant, to write an account of his travels through Italy, in fuch a 
 manner as not to difcover what religion he is of; as it is a qualification 
 requifite in an impartial hiftorian, not to be prejudiced in favour of any 
 country or religion, fo far as the latter implies the external difference of 
 churches or communions : but I found, that fuch an impartiality would, 
 be attended widi great difficulties. For inftance, our Saviour's entire 
 prceputium which was cut oft, is fliewn in three or four different places. 
 Every one of thefe churches, perhaps, produces a papal bull in favour 
 ofits relique: Shall a proteftant hiftorian, in fuch a cafe, pafs over in 
 filence the contradi<£lion which muft appear in fuch papal inftruments, 
 and the impolTibility that all the three prcepiit'ia fliould be genuine re- 
 
 * It cannot be iinjuft to charge the Rmmn catholics with ^da^s. fuperftitious cuftoms ; 
 for what is enjoined by the clergy, and' countenanced and authorifed by princes and 
 karned men of that communion, as well as the vulgar, muft be looked upon as the Gene- 
 ral praiSice. The' the former impute fuch fuperftitions to the commonalty, when preffed 
 on this head, yet they never refufe to attend at the moft ridiculous proccffions ; nor do 
 they ever attempt to convince the vulgar of their error. Upon the whole, \SizVcrom-fe Av. 
 Hot deferve the apology our author makes for them. 
 
 liquesj,
 
 igo VERONA, 
 
 liques, and In ddciibingcach of thcfe churches tell us : thatthe xtiS. prapw 
 ////wis kept there? Or, fliall he only mention in fliort, that this or that 
 is accounted the genuine relique ? The former is not confirtent with the 
 love of truth ; and in the latter cafe, how artfully foever he may couch his 
 expreflions, it will very foon be difcovered that he is no votary of the 
 Church oi Rome'^\ 
 Theafs.'why no g^j ^q rctum to the fable of the Verona afs. Miffons farcaftical obfervati- 
 
 longer Jhe-TMn at ,i/- • r n Jiii 
 
 Verona. OHS, and the fneenng enquiries or ftrangers and travellers about this extra- 
 ordinary relique, and, perhaps, the fuperftitious abufes it caufed among the 
 vulgar, have contributed to prevent the afs from making his appearance 
 in the procefTion, as ufual, for thefe eight years part; but on the con- 
 trary, has been concealed from the public view ; and the Veronefe make 
 a great difficulty of fliewing It to ftrangers. For my own part, I fliould 
 not have been much difappointed if I had not feen it ; but by mere acci- 
 dent, I happened to go into a particular chapel belonging to St. Bene~ 
 di£i\ church ; and there I had a full view of the afs that has made fo 
 much noife in the world. It flands upon the table behind the altar- 
 piece, v/hich reprefents St. BenediSf, and may be opened like a door. 
 The afs is a good piece of fculpture, and was carved fome centuries 
 ago by a devout monk of this convent. Our Saviour's image, which 
 fits upon it, is Ukewife of wood, and holds a book in the left hand, and 
 with the right feems to be giving the benediction. On the wall of the 
 fame chapel is to be feen a good piece of painting, by Do?ne>tico Brufa- 
 ^ forzi, reprefenting the refurredion of Lazarus. 
 
 St. ProculusV jj^ jj^g church of St. Procuhis, the table of the high altar confifls of 
 an entire piece o^verde antico, which is fix palms in breadth, and twelve 
 palms long. The bodies of St. Cofmus and St. Damiamis are kept in a 
 vault under this church. Whoever has a mind to fee duplicates of thefe 
 reliques, may, according ioRo/fi's account in h.\^ Roma nioder7ia, find 
 them at Rome in the church dedicated to thofe faints in the Campo Vac-' 
 
 falfe pretend, ctuo. In the ccmitcry of St. Procuhis at Veroiia, is fliewn a vault 
 
 Mut the body ^j^i^,]^ ^t prefent harbours great numbers of adders, t^c. where the body 
 of King Pf/JZ/z, which has been lince taken up in time oi war, and car- 
 ried into France, is faid to have been buried. The whole affair may' be 
 looked upon as a fable ; for the grave of king Pepin is not to be fearched 
 
 * The author here makes a proper exception to the general rule, which condemns all 
 paflion in an hiftorian, fmce truth is as it were the foul of hiftory ; however the pofitioii 
 is good, that he mult neither have country nor religion. A mind full of prejudices, for 
 any particular country or religion, cannot poflibly be a good hiftorian. For this reafon, 
 Mainhurys hiftory oi Calv'mifrn is decried by his own countrymen. On the contrar)', thofe 
 of oppofite principles refpe6t Thuams as an hiftorian. See counfellor Shnonetti's charafler 
 «rf'an hiftorian, §. 9. 
 
 for
 
 VERONA. 191 
 
 for at Verona, as it is certain that the French king of that name lies bu- 
 ried at St. Dennis, where he died *. 
 
 The houfein which St, Zeno is faid to have lived is converted into a ■^'- Zeno '«»■<». 
 chapel or oratory ; and on a large ftone is the following diftich : '°^' 
 
 Hoc fuper inciimbem faxo prope jiuminis imdam 
 Zeno Pater tremula captabat arundine pijces. 
 
 ' Oft on this ftone which lay upon the ftrand 
 
 ' The venerable Zeno took his ftand ; 
 
 ' A patient fifher, with his trembling reed 
 
 ' Intent to captivate the fcaly breed.' 
 
 The church of St. Zeno ftands not far from this chapel, where, in a parti- St. Zeno's 
 cular clofet, is kept a large round porphyry veffel, twenty-fix feetincircum- '^^■""'<:^- 
 ference, or eight Ferona feet in diameter. It confifts of one piece, and re- ^"''^^ f'"'P^y''J' 
 fembles a fliallow goblet. The pedeftal belonging to it is cut out of ano- 
 ther large piece. Itfeems, the devil, by the command of St. Zeno, brought ^^^ froui/c it 
 both thefe hither out oi I/iria. His firft day's journey with it was fome-^"' ' * ''^''' 
 what unlucky, the burden being too heavy for him, fothat he let the pe- 
 deftal fall into the yi^rfV/W/c fea. The excufes which fatan pleaded on 
 this occafion were not fatisfaftory to St. Zeno, who ordered him away to 
 look out for what he had loft by his carelefsnefs. That I may not be 
 charged, like MiJJ'on, with having my information from a fcullion boy, 
 or a chambermaid at an inn ; my authority is grounded upon a bajfo- 
 relievo, which repreients the whole tranfadion, and is inferted in the 
 wall near the porphyry vafe, where it could hardly have come but with 
 the approbation of the ordin^i-y and clergy belonging to this church. 
 This vafe is not made ufeofat prefent. But, if it be true, that former- 
 ly it ferved to hold the holy-water, it is no wonder that the devil, if he 
 had any foreknowledge of the ufe it was deligned for, fliould be very 
 unwilling to fatigue himfelf with carrying weapons to be employed 
 againft himfelf, and provide a veffel for that water by which he and his 
 legions may at any time be confounded and put to flight. However, 
 from the largenefs of the vafe, it does not feem probable that it was 
 employed for that ufe. It muft be acknowledged to be a valuable 
 piece, on account of its dimenfions, and the matter of which it 
 confifts. 
 
 * See Eg'mhard, vit. Carol. M. c. 3. Annates Frandfa Land'cclan'i, Tom. IL Camxiuntar. dc 
 BibliothaaVindabonmf. c. V, p. 371. Adeltnus ad ann. 263. 
 
 The;
 
 ,92 VERONA. 
 
 Tni. The font of St. Zeno\ church is very large, and cut out of one block 
 
 of white inarble. The tabic of the high-altar liicewife confuls of one 
 piece of inarble, thirteen feet long, and fix broad, which was the pro- 
 duce of this country. St. Zeno lies in the vault under this church, 
 which is adorned with feveral pillars of yellow marble. On the church 
 Bailo relievo's door, which is plated with bronze, are reprefented, but very rudely, all 
 on the <-'f""'<^* ranks and orders of ecclefiaftics. On both fides of the entrance feveral 
 fcriptural flories are carved on ftone ; thofe of the Old Teftament on the 
 ri"ht hand, as one enters into the church, and thofe of the New on the 
 other fide. The Eaftern Magi are here reprefented with crowns on 
 their heads ; and in the piece reprefenting the apprehending of Chrift in 
 the garden, Peter cuts off Malc/.ms ear, and is diftinguifhed by a key 
 hanging at his arm. The fculpture on the outfide of this church is 
 fomething remarkable, as it reprefents horfemen, wild beafts, hunting 
 matches, &c. with Lathi infcriptions over them, very few of which arc 
 now legible. The vulgar entertain themfelves with abundance of ftories 
 relating to thefc images. Among other things, they tell us, that king 
 ^/jeo^oric and Satan entered into a compaft, by virtue of which, the lat- 
 ter was bound, at all times, tofupply his majelty with good horfes and 
 hounds. The perfon onhorfeback faid to xe}pvtknvTheodo?'ic rides with 
 ftirrups, contrary to the pradice of antiquity. 
 
 On the wall, near the roof, two cocks are feen dragging along a fox 
 
 with his feet faftened to a log of wood : the like is feen of inlaid work 
 
 on the pavement at St. Mark's church in Vetiice. The lafi: piece, be- 
 
 caufe the word Galli fignifies both Cocks and Frenchmen, is fuppofed to 
 
 allude to Cbarles VIII. and Lewis XII. kings of France, and the crafty 
 
 Ltiigi Sforza duke of Milan. Mijfon alfo conjedures, that the Vero7ieJe 
 
 figures allude to Z)f//rf'(?rm king of Z/Ow-^^r^', ox\iva ioxv Adalgifiis, and 
 
 Fepin andCharles the great. But I am inclined to think, that in giving 
 
 a myfterious fignification to thofe grotefquc figures with which the 
 
 builders of the middle ages were fond of embellilhing their works, is 
 
 frequently attributing to them defigns which they never thought of. 
 
 Doubt concern- As to St. Zcno's church, it is far from being of that antiquity commonly 
 
 /«^/i^<j»/<VH/. afcribed to it, as the title of Rex GaUic:e, to be feen in a fi:one infcriptlon 
 
 'chCch. "^""^on the porch of this church, was unknown in fuch a remote epocha. 
 
 „ . . Connoifleurs in painting will find entertainment in the church of 
 
 Paintings !no- . ,.,; n i-r-i- jirroo J 
 
 iher churches. St. Nazario, which belongs to the Benedimnes, and thole ot bt. htcpbano, 
 Fermo, &c. The capuchine monks have fome fine pieces of painting 
 in their church, by Farenati, in one of which, as a compliment to the 
 fathers, St. Francis is reprefented taking down our Saviour from the 
 
 crofs. 
 
 r The
 
 VERONA. 103 
 
 The Ver072efe vtovatn arc well fhaped, and of a frefli complexion, for ^' '"''"''' e'^Ve- 
 which, unqueftionably, they cire obliged to the goodnefs of the air. The'''"^' 
 neighbourhood of the mountains conftantly refrefhes this city in the 
 heats of fummer with a cool evening breeze. And tho' the orange- 
 trees, G?r. are not expofed here in winter to the open air; yet the 
 climate produces all kind of fruits and vegetables in perfeftion. 
 
 In count Ght/li's garden is a very grand walk of cyprefs trees, fome ofCon'if Gam's 
 which exceed a hundred feet in height, and are above two hundred &'"'"''"■ 
 years old. This garden, in which there is a very curious labyrinth, is '"'»'• '-'^'^'•'• 
 laid out on an eminence, which yields a delightful profped of the city 
 and the neigbouring plain. It has likewife a grotto, vvhich is fo con- 
 trived, that the leall: found or whifper may be diftindly heard from one 
 corner to another. Under a ftatue of Cej-es eredtcd in this garden, are 
 thefe words : 
 
 Ne quid Veneri infa-ipiion un- 
 
 Deefet, tl^t/""" ^ 
 
 Cum Baccho Ceres 
 AJfociatur. 
 
 ' That nothing might be wanting to Venm, Ceres is here joined with 
 
 * Bacchus' 
 
 Under a ilatue of Vejius is the following infcription : 
 
 Sine me latum 
 
 Nihil exoritur : 
 
 Stafua in Viridario 
 
 Miki pofita eft 
 
 Ut in Vencre Venus eJJ'et. 
 
 * Without me there is nothing that charms : my flatue is placed in 
 
 * this garden, becaufe a beautiful place becomes the goddefs of beauty.' 
 
 And under the ftatue of Bacchus : 
 
 Ambulator^ 
 
 Ne trepidesy 
 
 Bacchum Amatorem 
 
 Non Bellaiore?n 
 
 Ad Geniufn loci 
 
 Dominus P, 
 
 Vol. hi. C c ' PalTenger
 
 194 VERONA. 
 
 * Faffcngcr be not afiaid, I am Bacchus the Lover, not the Warrior, 
 ' and ftationed here, as the genius of ihe place, by the pofieflbr.' 
 
 Fru;t,kt:.pro- Thecountry about 7 Vrc/z.z produces good peaches, melons, figs, ftraw- 
 ducdintlH\''i- berries, truflics, very large artichoaks, alparagus, chefnuts, apple?, 
 lone e. pears, plums, grapes, olives, and efculent herbs. 
 
 C'.unt Gazzu- Signior Gazzmlas garden is laid out in fine walks, planted with trees 
 o AS gur tn y^,}-,i(-j^ afford an agreeable ibade. The owner was formerly a ccunfellor, 
 
 ti:iaaimi. o _ y _ ' 
 
 but has procured the title of Count ; and as Gazzuola, in Italian, fignifies 
 a magpie, that bird is hi? coat of arms, with this motto, Loquendo, i.e. 
 By fpcaJiing. This delightful place he owes to his fkill in his profeffion. 
 The former ovv'ner of it, who, it feems, had many law-fuitson his hands, 
 employed Gazzuola fo long to plead for him till he had no other way of 
 fatisfying his demands, but by making over the houfe and garden to 
 him *. As foon as Gazzuola had taken pofl^elTion of the garden, he 
 ycciihi- o.lhfi- took down the arms of the former owner, and put up his own with 
 latotbem. the motto Li jQjjENDo, infcribed under them ; which, contrary to his 
 intention, is interpreted of the means by which he acquired this garden. 
 
 * A genenil cenfure from the mifbehaviour of a few is extremely uncharitable. However, 
 the iavv vers, from time immcmoiinl, have been looked upon in a difadvantageous light. 
 Even in Augufiui\ time, they were become \ eiy contemptible at Rome ; for they had depart- 
 ed from thcfolid eloquence, by which Cucro and riortmfmsixdi honour to their profcffion, infti- 
 gatedone party aa;ainil another, and enriched thcmfelves by chicanery and malpractices, till 
 that empeior faw himfelf under a jieceiTity of diminifiiing their number, and putting a check 
 to their avm ice. In the time of Z-itt/j emperor ot Germany, it was found necelTary to 
 publidi a folemn edicl to put a Hop to their abufes. Aiieiitin. arnurl. Bcj. I. IV. ad an. 850, 
 p. 244. Diminufa fiint caiijjidicorum merces, quorum pirMia nihil venahus. Nee rjt quidquani, 
 quod Tenic/tes, nofiro 'csvo magh ad Jummam egcjiatem redigit qiiam ktiiun calumnia ctf legulcjorwn 
 ai'.rlpiga turba, qui quafi Sardi venales fora cmyiipant. ' The fees of pleaders were reduced, 
 ' then- iniquitous venality being grown to a monftrous height : nor are the Germans more 
 ' impoverifhcd by any thing in our age than by lawfuits, and the chicanery of the venal 
 ' tribe of pettifoggers, with which the courts of juftice are crowded.' However, no people 
 perhaps fheweda greater deteflation of the lawyers than the ancient Germans.. Lueius Fk- 
 riis, Mi/h Rcii:. I. IV. c. 12. ^ 37. fays, NihilHIa cade Variana eruentius : nihil infutiaiione har- 
 harovum intolerantius, pracipue tamen in cauffarum patronos. Aliis oculos, aliis manus ampuiahant : 
 tmius OS fututn, recifa prius lingua, qtiam in manu tencns harharus : tandem, inquit., viptra Jibilm-e 
 dejl/le, i. e. ' Never was any defeat more bloody than that of Varius, nothing more fava&e 
 ' than the infults of the barbarians; efpeciaJly towards the pleaders of caules. Offonie 
 ' they plucked out the eyes, and cut off the hands of others : they fewed up the mouth 
 ' of one of them, having firft tore out his tongue, which a barbarian holding up in his 
 ' hand, farcaftically faid, "Now ceafe to hifs, viper." Among the ancients, the charadler of 
 a wicked 1-awyer has been expofed by Ammian. Marcell. lib. XXX. c. 12. Cicero pro Rofc. 
 Jmer.. c. 20. Sens:ade ira, I. I. c. 7, /. III. c. 37. Peiren. in Salyr. And among the moderns, 
 fee ZirgLr in rahul. A. Fiiijch in advoc. peccant, and the famous Italian profeffor of law, AureL 
 di Ga.naro treatife dclle viziofe manicre del defender k aaufe velforo, i -45. 
 
 I fliali
 
 VERONA. j^^ 
 
 I fliall conclude this letter with an account of the feveral kinds of pe- Petrcfaaa. 
 trefadions which have been found ■^oxw.Vcrona, of which BalUano Ro- 
 tario, a phyfician, has a very large coUedion. The molt remarkable 
 among thefe, in my opinion, is a kind of fea-crabs called Paguri^ which Sea o-ab. 
 are rarely to be met with. 
 
 Betwixt Verona and Vicenza in the difl.ri(5t of Boko and not far from FifJ.'n. 
 Vejlene nuova are found all kinds of petrefied fifh, mofl of which are 
 of the fait- water fpecies, in a fort of wiiite loam. The foil contains 
 but a fmall quantity of chalk. Thefe fiflies are moftly well preferved, 
 their bones being entire, and, frequently, even their fcales. They chiefly 
 confifl: of the Sarda minor, pyke, foals, thornbacks, the Hirundo marina, 
 a flying fifli, perch, thcfcat'us, and gudgeon. 
 
 Befides thefe, near Boko are found crabs, large oyfter-fliells, and pe- other teire- 
 trifled leaves of the Lonchys afpcra, faakm. 
 
 ZannichelU, a celebrated Venetian apothecary, in the year 1721, pub- 
 liflied a treatife dedicated to P. Bonanni a yefuit, entitled Lithograph'ui 
 diiorum Montium Veronenjium inilgo di Boricoh et di Zcppica ditlorum. 
 The moft remarkable petrefadions found in diofe mountains are the 
 Oftrea maxima riigofa, lapides knticuhres majores k'vigati, Conchitce, Coco- 
 kit (t, T^iirbinitce, Nunnfmatafive Lapides fninuntarii, &c. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Bcgno/o are found Coralloides, Oftrea^ Islumif- 
 mata majora, Tubiditce injlar Cornu Ammonis in f'e revoluti, Cochkita and 
 Buccinitce. Petrefied corallines are likewife dug up in Monte di Scave. 
 
 Near Ronca are found Conchitc? hives, tranj'-cerj'.m minutifjime Jlriati\ 
 together with other fpecies of the fame, Tellimta, Stronibit^e laves, 
 Strombitce miiricati & Jlriati, ^c. Turbinita jajciati , Turbinita Jafciati 
 & ftriati, 'Turbinitce muricati, Turbinitce miiricati ^ in crbe fuperiore fa'- 
 ciati, Turbinito'. jafciati & pimBicidati, lurbijiito' fajciati & echinoji, Tur- 
 binitce heptangidares variis ftriis ajpcrati, Tiirbinitce mIH multangidares 
 Jliati, Muricites tnartnoreus rojiro incurvaio, Mwicitee kvitcr Jiriati, par- 
 tim rojlri curvi, partim auriti, majores & minoirs, Murex marmoreus auritus 
 rufefcentis coloris, oftreiim bivalve riifefcentis coloris, Ccchleitce Iccvcs, Biic- 
 cinitt^ Iceves, Chama coloris cinerei tranjvci-jim flriaUt, Purpuritce echini- 
 formes, Coralloida, Madrepora, Numifmata fc. Lapides frumcntarii , &c. 
 
 In feveral other parts of the territories of Verona are found Conchitcv, 
 FeBinitce auriti, PeElinitce fukis lafijjimis infigniti, PcSfines ingenfcs ftrtis 
 craffioribus riigofi, Peoliinctdita miniitiJjinK per hngum firiati, Pecliincu- 
 litce Lifteri, PeSlunculi per kngum G? tranjverfmi ftriati , Tellinitc^, Coch- 
 kitce laves marmorei, together with other ipecies of them, Cornua ylm- 
 monis. Nautilus in marmore rufefcenti, Odontopetrcv, Coralloides, Lapis 
 frumentarius fc. juxta Langium Semen feeniculi. Lapis Lynciiis fc. Bekm- 
 nitcs, Akyonia variir, jStrombi, Lapides kn/iculares, Purpura marmorec?, 
 
 C c 2 Lur-
 
 ig6 V I C E N Z A, 
 
 Turhinei hi hngwn undati & elegant er minullm in tyanfvcrjum crifpat' , 
 'Tiirhinita per longitm & tranfverlvn Jlriati, Fimgi, Modioli & Lopidc^ 
 jimygdalam refhcntcs, Muridta oiiriti., Chamce dentnta Buccinitce, Bu- 
 carditce, which the country people call tortelliy thcfe are hivalves, and 
 nearly in the form of a heart, miijcidi, ojlreum bivahc inibricatinn, o/lcc- 
 colla crctacc^ ijaria Jpccies, cancri varies fjiagnititdinis, Lcnfijci folia, and 
 other petreficd leaves, as alfo EchinitcB Spatagoides niidi., &c. befidcs 
 Mifchio de Brent onico and Giallo di Ten i. 
 
 The country about Verona produces feveral other fpecies of good mar- 
 ble befides thofe called Mifchio di Brentonico and Giallo di Torri -, and 
 fpeciniens of all thefe are to be feen in many of the churches in this 
 city. 
 
 Verona, May 2, 1730. 
 
 LETTER LXX. 
 
 Account of Vicenza. 
 
 B I R, 
 
 Cauntry. '°~1~^ ^ ^ diftancc from Verona to Vicenza is t!iirty Italian miles : The 
 _|^ road lies through a fliony, but fertile and pleafant country. 
 
 fi'f city. Vicen:::.a contains a great many elegant and beautiful buildings, and the 
 
 tops of feveral of them are ornamented with ftatues ; particularly thofe 
 in the piazza or area before the council-houfe. This piazza makes fuch 
 a grand appearance that it only wants fountains to make it a Piazza di 
 Novcna in miniature. After this city fell under the Venetian yoke, they 
 erefted here, as in other conquered cities, the arms of St. Mark on a 
 lofty pillar, which are a winged lion. On another pillar of the fame 
 kind itands the image of our Saviour. 
 
 €iiimdl-koufe. The council-houfe called //P^/^zasso della Ragione has a very fpa- 
 cious hall ; but it is not kept in good order. In the criminal court is a 
 pidlure reprefenting the final judgment, painted by Titian. In another 
 part of this palace is the llory of Noah's drunkennefs, Cyc. painted by 
 Paris Bardone. This large edifice contains feveral other fine paintings ; 
 but moil: of them are difpofed in an improper light. 
 
 Thcie
 
 r I C E N Z .^. 197 
 
 There is in this <.lty an academy or literary Ibciety rtyled the Olympic!, AcaJemia o. 
 whofe defign is chiefly t!ic improvehient of the Italian language. The >''"P"^°'""f- 
 academicians iiokl their meetings in a theatre built by the celebrated a;/,/?^ ihci» 
 Palladia; which is very well wcrth a traveller's notice for its admirable ''■^• 
 conftrudion. It is but very feldom ufed as a theatre ; the opera of So- 
 fhonisba being the only one that has been exhibited in it. The pcr- 
 fpedive of the ftage is adniirable, and it is decorated with ftatues of the 
 Roman emperors and philofophers. The parterre or pit is likewife 
 adorned with fevcral ftatues, and the feats are difpofed after the manner 
 of the ancient amphitheatres. 
 
 As for the ruins of the ancient Roman theatre, not long fmce fhev/n Roman thea- 
 in the Pigafetti {=? Giialdi gardens, nothing is now to be feen of them, "'"■ 
 an houfc being built on the place where it liood. 
 
 In the Campus Martins without the city is a triumphal arch built from Triumphal 
 a defign of the abovementioned Palladia., in imitation of the ancient '"■''^■ 
 ftrudures of that kind. Formerly the yearly fivir, which lafts from the 
 15th day to the end of OSiober, was held on the Campus Martins ; but Campus Mar- 
 for fome years paft it has been removed into the city. '■"^• 
 
 In count Montenari'i houfe is a hall finely painted, a great deal of Montenari 
 curious ftucco work, and a fmall gallery of feled pidures. ;itau: 
 
 The palace of count Chiragado ftands in a large area, and is an elegant Chiragado 
 piece of architedure. f^'^ce. 
 
 In count Wale's, houfe where Frederick king of Denmark lodged as he Cw«.' Wa!e j 
 paffed through Vicenza, is a good coUedion of fine pidures. ''''"'^'■ 
 
 The city of Vice)iza is of no extraordinary extent ; however tiiere are dumber of con- 
 fuppofed to be in it fifty-feven churches, convents, and hofpitals. The '<^^i"^, &c 
 cathedral affords nothing worth a traveller's notice. 
 
 The Dominican church deferves feeing on account of the high altar, Dominican 
 and the inlaid Florentine work on the Palliotto, which reprefents ^''■""■"'-'• 
 the annunciation, the inflitution of the Lord's fupper, and the refurrec- 
 tion ofCbrijL The other ornaments of the altar confifting of flowers 
 and ftatues, are alfo executed with a mafterly hand. Here is a piece of 
 painting reprefenting the adoration of the eaftern Magi by Paolo Ve- 
 ronefe. 
 
 On the front of St. Barbaras church the following infcription is to St. BarbaiaV 
 be feen. ^''■""■''^• 
 
 Senio fatifcens Fcclefia 
 
 V. Kal. Mart. A. MDCXCV. horrendis motibus 
 
 Vniverjd nut ante Urbe 
 
 Propcmodum excufj'a 
 
 BJitu ac rudcribus elegantior exjurgit 
 
 A. MDCCIL 
 
 ' This,
 
 198 V 1 C E N Z A. 
 
 ' This church being ahnoft ruinous by length of time, was, on the 
 
 * 25th of February 1695, when the whole city rtiook. by tlic terrible 
 ' concuflions of an earthquake, almoft demolinied, hut rofe from its 
 
 • ruins with greater beauty and elegance in the year 1702.' 
 
 S.Maria in The cieling and feveral chapels in the church ^/ 6'. Maria in Cam- 
 Canipagnano. ^,^^^^^^^^ Were painted by Pordenone. 
 
 The T'kcatine'?: church has been lately rebuilt. 
 Mons Pietatis. The Molu Fictalis is a fupcrb edifice, and has an excellent library 
 
 opened for the ufe of the public. 
 Madonna in Without the city is the church of the Madonna in Moritc, which has 
 Monte. ^ good front, and is covered with votive pieces. There is a pidture, painted 
 
 Vt-nnarki on a hj Paul Vcronijc, iu the refedory ot this convent, reprcfenting pope 
 ^x'^.^. ^L^'^"' Gregory the great fitting with feveral pilgrims at table, where our Sa- 
 viour alfo is prefent. Though this piece be finely executed, the inven- 
 tion is very abfurd ; for the Pope fits at the upper end without his triple 
 crown, and next to him Cbrijl is reprefented without any particular 
 fymbol or mark of diftinftion. The next is a cardinal, and on the other 
 fide is another cardinal with a large pair of fpedtacles on his nofe. A page 
 drefied in the Spanijh manner waits at table with a dog under his arm. 
 Under the table a cat, a monkey, &c. are reprefented. The moun- 
 tain on which this church and the convent to which it belongs are built 
 ^■ields a very agreeable profpeft, which extends as far as Padua. For 
 the convenience of the ufual procefilons, and of pilgrims, a large afcent 
 by fteps has been made up the acclivity of the mountain. At the be- 
 ginning of the afcent in the valley, a triumphal arch is ered:ed ; and on 
 the left hand of it is a fiatue of the virgin Mary. 
 SJn-aii't!. Fice72za lies between two mountains in a large plain ; and the tevy'i- 
 
 Fe-.'.iU country, tory belonging to it on account of its fertility is generally called the gar- 
 den and fhanibles of Venice. The meadows about Vicehxa are watered 
 by the little rivers Lccgra, Lcrcto, Aliignello, Dehita, Rercne and '7/7- 
 bualo : And the rivulet Bacbiglione runs through the middle of the city. 
 The fineft garden at Vicenzax^xhiXoicoxSi'CitValmaranOi which, indeed 
 for its fituaticn, hedges, vifl:a's, arbors and beautiful walks, may be 
 reckoned one of the nobleft in all Italy. A covered walk of cedar and 
 orange-trees planted alternately, which is above two hundred common 
 paces in length, is particularly admired. On one fide of it is a broad 
 canal well flocked with large barbels and other fifh, which at the found 
 of a pipe immediately appear in great numbers on the furface in order to 
 be fed. Over the entrance into the garden, on the Verona fide, is the 
 following infcription : 
 
 Si
 
 V I C E N Z A, 
 
 Si te, ingredienfem graviorei fortt 
 
 Hue ufque infeciita funt curce^ 
 
 Eas velint nolint prociil 
 
 Nunc lit abeatit Jacito ; 
 
 Hilaritati namque Gf gento 
 
 Pan hcec potij]'. dicata eft. 
 
 Cedros hofce qui dempferit 
 
 Florefve carpfcrit 
 
 Is jacrilegus efio, 
 
 Vertunmoqiie & Pomona, 
 
 ^eis fu7it facri, 
 
 Pcenai luito. 
 
 Civis, Amice, Advena, 
 
 ^li loci amcsnitate cupis obkSlariery 
 
 Securus hue ingredere 
 
 T'eque largiter recrea. 
 
 Nullui inius canis, 
 
 Nullus Draco, 
 
 Nullus fake minaci Dens, 
 
 Omnia fed tufa benigmqiie expofita. 
 
 Sic voluit Comes LEONARDUS VALMANARA 
 
 Hortorum dominus, 
 
 Modejliam quod tuam & cojitinentiam 
 
 Cuftodem fore fidat opportunum. 
 
 Anno MDXCII. 
 
 ' If corroding cares have haply followed thee thus far, though they 
 be loth to leave thee, difpel and banifli them away. This place is more 
 particularly dedicated to genial mirth and feflivity. Whoever fliall da- 
 mage thefe cedars, or crop a flower, let him be accounted as a facri- 
 legious perfon, and be puniflied to appeafe Vertumnus and Pomona, to 
 whom they are conlecrated. 
 
 ' Native, friend, or ftranger, who defireft to amufe thyfelf with the 
 rural charms of this place, thou mayeft fecurely enter thefe gardens 
 defic-ned for pleafure and recreation. Here is no fierce dog, no 
 frightful dragon, no deity with his threatening weapon ; but every 
 thing here is freely and without danger expofed to thy view.. Such is 
 the pleafure of count Leonarda Vahnanara, the owner of the gardens,, 
 
 1 ' wIioj 
 
 i99
 
 200 FICENZA. 
 
 ' who relies on thy modefty and good breeding, as fufficlent to guard 
 ' the place from any outrage.' 
 
 ■ifrn. This country produces plenty of excellent wine, which is particularly 
 
 celebrated for its lenient quality in the pains of the gout. 
 Vmsaiw Xlie inhabitants of Viccnza are charged with being of a more vindidive 
 
 \tT\\%'a'd temper than the reft of the //////^«i; on which account they are com- 
 fnHicuL-iy oj monly called GU alfajjini Viccntini ; i. e. * Thefe Vicentian alHilTins.' This 
 thejiopleof jg certain, that travellers, and cfpecially the Germans^ who have here the 
 charader of being hot and quarrclfome, fhould be very careful in every 
 part of //rt/y to avoid difputcs, and eipecially with the pollillions, and 
 other perfons of the lower clais j for the delire of revenge is fuch a pre- 
 dominant paflion in them, that they have been known to follow a tra- 
 veller fix or eight ftages to watch an opportunity of gratifying their 
 malice and revenge. 
 
 Open violence, indeed, is little to be apprehended from them, on which 
 account the danger is the greater. 
 
 Omne animal timidnm crudek. 
 ' Cowards are always cruel.' 
 
 Murder is looked upon in Italy in a very different light from what it 
 js in other countries. If a robbery has been committed, either in the 
 ilreets or on the market-place, in any of the towns of ltaly\ and the 
 people are alarmed to ftop the thief, there is always affiftance at hand 
 to purfue the criminal ; but upon crying after a murderer, no body offers 
 to ftir ; and the affaffm faves himfelf by flying unmolefted to a church, 
 convent, or other afvlum, where, to the great honour of the clergy 
 be it fpoken, the villain receives all poffible affiftance that he may efcape 
 the hands of the civil power. I remember, a poftillion who once drove 
 me was treacheroufly ftabbed at the poft-houfe of Pijhia ; and though 
 the fad: was committed in the prefence of more than ten perfons, not 
 one of them ftirred a foot to feize or purfue the murderer. 
 
 The meaneft citizen of Ficenza, in figning con trads or other deeds, 
 add to their name the title of Comie Vicefitino, or Count of Vicenza, an 
 empty piece of pride, which they derive from an anfwer, as is pretended, 
 given by Charles V. who, when he was at Vicenza, to get rid of the 
 importunate folicitations of feveral of the rich citizens, to grant them 
 the title of counts, faid in jeft, Todos Contes ; '* • I make you all counts.' 
 
 * As Charles V. ditl not fettle any revenue on the burghers of Ficenza to maintain their 
 imaginary dignity, the following proverb is not improperly applied to them : 
 Per multos Ccmites Vincentla nutrit cgcncs. 
 * As poor as a count of Fincenza.' 
 
 I M. de la
 
 V I C E N Z A. 201 
 
 M. della Vale, an ingenious apothecary, who lives on the Piazza has 
 a curious coUedtion of petrefadtions ; and efpecially of Verona petrefied 
 fiflies. Thofe who are fond of thefe natural curiofitics may colledl in many 
 places of the di\^n&. oi Vicenza., PcSlunculi flriati-, Ecbini and Cheknites ; 
 and particularly on the cha!k-hill, as it is called, are found Conchita bt- 
 vahes, Tellinitce, MufaiUtce, Buccintta., 'Turbinitce per longum & tranf- 
 "verjim /iriati, PeBinitee, auriti, PeSlifiitce aim Jiriis lati/jimis diftin^i, 
 PcBunculi leviter Jlriati, Echini, Cochloites, vertebra pijcium, &c. Be- 
 yond the Capuchin mountain, near Schiiim, towards the north-eaft, and 
 on the' borders of Trent are found the Rchinitce difcoidei, Cheknites, 
 PeSlines, and Gagates. 
 
 Beyond Schiiim, farther north, in a mountain called // Motite Siim- 
 mano, medals, and other remains of antiquity, have been dug up. Some 
 derive the name of this hill from its height ; but others from a temple 
 of Pluto, the ruins of which with the following infcription, as itisfaid, 
 are ftill to be feen there : Plutoni Summano aliijque Diis Stigiis *, i.e. ' To 
 ' Pluto of Sunnnanus, and the other infernal deities.' A fragment of an altar 
 confecrated io Pluto Sutnmamis, placed in the church of <S. Maria in Monte^ 
 is mentioned by Gruter, T. I. p. 1015. n. 7. Macrobius and Capella de 
 Nupt. Philolog. lib. ii. fuppofe that Sum?tianus was put for fummus, or 
 Prificips Manium ; i. e. ' The chief of the Manes.' But Sum?na?ms has 
 not been demonftrated to be a fiirname of Pluto ; and perhaps thofe 
 two names may imply two different deities. Ovid, who thoroughly un- 
 derftood the heathen mythology, is himfelf at a lofs what to make of 
 the god Summanus; for he fays, in his Fajli, lib. vi. v. 731, 
 
 Reddita, quifquis is ejl, Summano templa feruntiir 
 Tunc cum Romano, Pyrrhe, timendus eras. 
 
 * It is faid, that temples were firft eredled to Summanus, whoever he 
 ' be, when Pyrrhus grew formidable to the Ro?nans.' 
 
 • The diilance from Vicenza to Padua is eighteen Italian miles. The 
 road lies through a fertile, well- cultivated plain. PafTengers may go from 
 one city to the other by water j but the paffage is very tedious, being no 
 lefs than fixty Italian miles by reafon of the winding of the river. 
 
 Vicenza, May 3, 1730. 
 
 * Vid. Fcbreit. Infcript. p. %•■. '. 
 
 Vol. 111. D d LETTER
 
 202 PAD U A. 
 
 LETTER LXXI. 
 
 Of the City o{ Padua. 
 
 S I R, 
 
 PaJpa. ' i "^ HE Paduans boafl:, that the republic of Venice owes its origin and 
 
 ^ rife to their city. But it is now fome centuries fince Padua has 
 
 been brought under the Venetian yoke, which has occafioned it greatly 
 
 to decline from its former fplendor ; fo that at prefent it hardly con- 
 
 ^rhtbZliu' '■^'"^ ^°''y thoufand inhabitants *, 
 
 Univerfiy.' The univerfity eredted here by the emperor Frederick II. with a 
 view of prejudicing that of Bologna, is in a very declining ftate ; for 
 the number of lludents at prefent fcarce amount to four or five hun- 
 dred. This is in a great meafure owing to the negledt of checking the 
 extravagant licentioufnefs and infolence of the ftudents, which formerly 
 rofe to fuch extremities, that no one could walk the ftreets after dufk 
 without being obnoxious to their infults, which they pracftifed with im- 
 punity. The watchword of thofe defperadoes in their nodturnal ex- 
 curfions was, ^d va li ? i. e. * Who goes there?' Hence they came 
 to be called ^livalijii. And though their enormities are very much de- 
 creafed with their numbers, yet difcreet people generally take care not 
 to be out in the night at Padua, 
 
 In the year 1722 fuch a tumult happened here in the day-time, that 
 a Syndic and four ftudents were fhot by the Sbirri. As thefe officers ex- 
 ceeded their commiffion, feveral of them were hanged, or fent to the 
 galleys, that the ftudents might have no caufe, or pretence, to forfake 
 the univerfity. An infcription was alfo fet up in the place where the tu- 
 mult began, as a memorial of the fatisfaftion given to the ftudents on 
 that account, It is not above two years fince count la Rofa loft his life 
 in the ftreets of Padua in the night. 
 
 Protej}ant:bu- When a Proteftant traveller dies at Padua, he is buried without any 
 
 ried in difficulty either in a church or a convent, if he has only taken care to 
 
 be matriculated in the univerfity. 
 
 The college is called // Palazzo degli Sttidii, and is adorned with great 
 numbers of ftatues of the moft celebrated perfons educated there with 
 proper infcriptions. The anatomy-fchool has fix galleries round it, for 
 the conveniency of feeing the difi'edlions j but is fo dark, that thofe 
 
 ' The number of inhabitants at Brefda are computed to be thirty-five thoufand. 
 
 operations 
 
 thurchci 
 
 •$.
 
 PAD U A 203 
 
 operations are performed in it by candle-light. Here arc no fkeletons to 
 
 be feenj but the profeflbrs of phyfic have feveral in their refpedlive 
 
 houfes. The phyfic-garden has very few equals ; and the difpofition o^ Phj/ic-gartien. 
 
 the plants is very elegant and convenient. It was founded by Francif- 
 
 ciis Bonafidei, who was the firft profeflbr of botany at Padua, and died 
 
 in the year 1658. 
 
 Over the entrance are the rules prefcribed to thofe who frequent this 
 garden, with the penalties for difobeying them, (Sc. 
 
 The fuperior advantages which this garden has enjoyed above mofl 
 other phyfic-gardens is, that Guilandini, Cortiifo, Alpino, Vejling, and 
 other celebrated botanifts, have fucceffively had the fuperintendeney of 
 it. Vejling was a native of Minden in Weftphaliay and was honoured by 
 Otta'vio Ferrari with the following epitaph : 
 
 yOANNI VESL ING 10, Mindano, 
 
 Natures verique Jcrutatori folertijjimo, qui fapientice, atque (xoticarum 
 
 firipium Jludio Mgypto ac Syria per agr at a ab Veneto Senatii rei her bar ice & 
 
 corporum Se£lio7ii prafeSius, etim Latinitatis & Gmcce eruditionis cultum 
 
 niutis artibus circuntfudit, ut illic natures ludentis pompam cemularetur, hie 
 
 fpcBaculi diritatem Orationis dulcedine deliniret, ut quantum oculi paterentur, 
 
 tantum fibi aures placer ent. Demum laboribus fraSius dum mi [era plebi 
 
 gratuitam cperam praeflat, noxio contaStu vitatn public ce Saluti impendit. 
 
 Jo. Pueppa Socero B. M. P. Anno MDCLV. 
 
 * To the memory of yohn Vejling, a native of Minden, a moft in- 
 
 * defatigable fenrcher after truth, and into the works of nature, who, 
 
 * for the improvement of his knowledge, and his fkill in botany, having 
 
 * travelled all over Egypt and Syria, was afterwards, by the fenate of 
 ' Venice, appointed profeflbr of Botany and Anatomy, and fet forth 
 ' thofe demonftrative fciences with all the ornaments of Greek and Ro- 
 ' man eloquence ; fo that in the former, he imitated the exuberance 
 
 * and flowery pride of nature ; and in the latter, he foftened the horror 
 
 * of anatomical operations, by the harmony and fweetnefs of his ac- 
 
 * cents, which pleafed the ear no lefs than the difl!edlions fhocked the 
 
 * eye. At length, broken by care, and afliduity in his profeflion, whilfl 
 ' he was attending the poor without fee or reward, he contracfled a fatal 
 
 * difeafe, and thus laid down his life in the fervice of the public. Johri 
 ' Pueppa ereded this monument as a mark of his affedlion to his worthy 
 
 * father-in-law, in the year 1655." 
 
 The Morofmi garden in the Brenta Vecchia deferves the notice of thole 
 who admire orangeries and exotic plants. 
 
 D d 2 the
 
 204 PADUA. 
 
 The Francifcan church is one of the moft remarkable places -MPadua. 
 It is dedicated to 6'. Antonio di Fadiia. This celebrated patron fa.nt was 
 born at jL»/!^07/ in the year 1195, and died in the year 1231. Several 
 books are publiflied, giving an account of his life, and the great mi- 
 racles performed by St. Antony^ all ufliered in with the licence and ap- 
 probation of the fuperior clergy; though many paflages in thofe books 
 cannot be read without offence. Indeed feveral i?'9Wi/«-Catholics would 
 lo'jk upon them as the fiftions of hv^retics, were :i; not manifefl from their 
 own books that nothing is falfely charged upon them with regard to this 
 faint. The patronage of St. Antony is certainly worth all the endeavours 
 that a good Catholic can be at to obtain it, as it is not limited to this 
 Oiort life J but extends to the day of judgment, with an efficacy not infe- 
 rior to that which the fcripture attributes to our blelTed Saviour only*. 
 Fini, an Italian poet, has thus expreffed his confidence in this faint : 
 
 Cke fo? chc penfof al perentorio cflrcmo, 
 
 Al novijjiino di mi chiama i I fata. 
 
 Con proclama di Morte io [on citato 
 
 Del alte Rote al T'ribunal fjipremo. 
 O gran pnnto ! 6 gran piinto ! io g^h, io tre7no, 
 
 J5 placitar giafento il mio peccato ; 
 
 Vieni Antonio, e per me J a PAvnocato, 
 
 Se til tratti la caufa, io pin tion temo. 
 Io temo ben delle mie colpe iljio, 
 
 E perche reo ?kI gran procejjo io fono 
 
 Del' eterne Giuflitie io temo il Dio. 
 Ma /per aljin de la Pi eta nel trono 
 
 S ho la lifigua d' Antonio in favor mio, 
 
 Segnatura di gratia e di perdono-f. 
 
 ♦ Alas ! what fliall I do, and whither rove my thoughts ? Fate calls 
 ' me to the laft day. I am fummoned by death before the fupreme tri- 
 ' bunal of heaven. O important crifis ! O weighty concern ! I fhiver 
 ' and tremble when I confider what pleafure I took in fin. Come, O 
 ' blefled Antony, and be thou my advocate; if thou doft but plead my 
 ' caufe, I fliall no longer fear. 'Tis true, I fear the punifliment due 
 
 * The devotion of the Pnrliwns to this faint is fuch, that the beggars do not afk alms for 
 God's, but for St. Jniony'r. fake ; and among the votive tables, one of them has the following 
 infcription : Exaudit S. Jntonius, quos non exaudit Dens ; ' Thofe whom God himfelf does not 
 ' hear, St. Antony hears.' 
 
 •f /''/.-/. Relazioni del gran Santo di Padoua Antoni'), e deW alte fue maravigUe, di Lelio Mancini. 
 Jr: Padkua 1654. 
 
 'to
 
 PADUA, 205 
 
 ' to my fins ; I fear the divine jufticc, as I fliall be foutui guilty before 
 ' the throne of God : but I hope to find mercy at laft if Antony\ tongue 
 ' be employed in my favour, as it is the feal and pledge of pardon and 
 ' forgivenefs,' 
 
 The chapel of this faint is almoft covered with votive pieces, ^c. for 
 the cures and other favours obtained by his interceffion ; and among the 
 reft is the following infcription : 
 
 Viator^ afpice novum portentwn, 
 
 ne mirere, 
 Adfunt Jimili a Jape & frequcntia. 
 
 At ve}icra?-e. 
 Veneti maris unda incautum Lrcium 
 JDecenncjn rapiiit, 
 Infcio Patre 
 Aliejium, nrMJiUwn conquer cut e. 
 Bis horafpatio tethmi 
 Pietas fervatum "vohat. 
 
 Cur dubitas ? 
 Ignis, Mare, Ferrum, 
 CcEtera occurrentia mala, 
 
 Omnia SanSlo cedunt. 
 
 Zacharias Pontimis Pater 
 
 Tanti mimeris memor 
 
 'Tanto SanSlo pofuit. 
 
 1645. ^^' -^i^gufti' 
 
 ' Traveller, behold a new prodigy ; yet wonder not, but adore the 
 ' faint who often works fuch miracles amongft us. Livio, a boy of 
 ' ten years of age, carelefly playing on the fhore of the Adriatic-(cz, 
 ' was waflied away by the waves, while his father knowing nothing of 
 ' this accident, unexpededly found his fon, whofe devotion to the 
 
 * faint had miraculoufly preserved him two hours under water. Doft 
 ' thou doubt of this ? Even fire, water, the fword, and every difeafe 
 
 * own the power of the faint. In memory of this great mercy to his 
 ' fon, the father, Zachary Pontano, hung up this votive table tofo great 
 .' a faint on the ift day of AuguJ}, 1645.' 
 
 In this faint's chapel I faw burning above fifty large filver lamps, and Richchafelof 
 one of gold, together with two very large filver candlefticks ftanding on ''■'"/«""• 
 white marble pedeftals. The walls are embellilhed with admirable bujfo- 
 
 4 rclircos
 
 2o6 PADUA. 
 
 relievo s bv TuUh Lombardo, Antonio Lombardo, Giacomo Sanfovitio, and 
 Gieronimo Campagna. Zi.AntOJiy's farcopbagus is of ferpentine, and lies under 
 the altar. The altar is adorned with feven angels of bronze, caft hyAfpetti, 
 and likcwife with fome exquifite fculpture ; and indeed the chapel, in every' 
 refped, has but few equals. On one fide of it are fiiewn two wax 
 flambeaux, eight or nine inches in diameter, which are fixed in an iron- 
 work : thefe are faid to have been offered by a treacherous Turk, with a 
 defign to blow up the chapel by means of fire-works concealed in them. 
 But it feems St. Antony prevented the calamity : for thefe flambeaux be- 
 ing lighted, he cried out aloud three times from his cofSn, that they 
 fliould be put out again ; which occafioned a farther examination of the 
 flambeaux : and thus the villanous plot was difcovered. We were enter- 
 tained with fuch another ftory of a powder plot at Loretto. St. Antonys 
 remains is faid continually to emit a moft fragrant perfume, which is chiefly 
 Si. Antony'j fmelt at a crevice b:^hind the altar. The faint's tongue is kept with 
 tongue. great devotion in a glafs vafe in the veflry, and very fervent prayers are 
 
 Trea/ure. offered up to it. Here is a vart: treafurc of filver candlefticks, crucifixes, 
 
 gold chalices, pyxes, and feveral reliques belonging to the chapel. 
 St. FelixV Oppofite to St. Antonys, chapel is that of St. Felix, in which are fome 
 
 xhai:el. paintings in frefco by the famous Giotto of Florence. 
 
 Under a marble buflo near St. Antonys chapel is the following epitaph 
 by Ottavio Ferrari : 
 
 CONSrANTlNO DOTTORIO, 
 
 Ingentis aninii juveyii, qui in Dalmatia tnihtiam aufpicatus, flagrante 
 Cretico hello illuc tranfiit, & memorabili Urbis obfidionejhemii & fnaxime 
 pTignncis Jiomen implevit ; nam pro valj^ excubans, crebrifque in hojlem crup- 
 tionibiis, 7ion uno vulnere decorus, terrdqiie tormentorwn impetu exciijfd pcne 
 obrutm & prope ocuUs captus, cum illi Senatus emeriti decoris praf}Uian Tar- 
 vifii armorum regimen obtuliffet, honefto otio labores ac pej-icida pra-ferens, 
 dwn quotidie peSfiis mortis capax hofti objicit, glande trajeSlus ?nortalitatem 
 magis finivit qudm vitam. Julius Parens dejolatijjimus, quod accipere dc- 
 buerat, pojuit. A)in. M.DC.LXX. 
 
 ' To the magnanimous youth Conjiantino Dotfori, who, having ferved 
 ' his firft campaign in Dalmatia, afterwards diflinguiflied himfelf in the 
 
 * Cretan war, and acquired the reputation of a brave and intrepid fol- 
 ' dier at the memorable fiege of the city oi Candia; being poffed before 
 
 • ' the trenches in the frequent (allies made by the enemy, he received 
 ' feveral honourable wounds, and almoft loft his fight, being in a man-- 
 ' ner buried under-ground by the fpringing of a mine. The fenate, as 
 
 * the reward of his valour, offered him an honourable poff ; but he 
 
 3 ' preferring
 
 PADUA. 207 
 
 ' preferring hardfhips and dangers even to honourable Icifiire, continued 
 
 • in the army, where he intrepidly expofed himfelf to the fire of the 
 < enemy. He was at lafl: fliot by a mufket-ball, and thus finished his 
 
 • mortal courfe rather than his life. Giiilio, his afflidleft father, eredled 
 ' this monument to his fon, who ought rather to have performed this 
 ' lafl office to his father. \6yo.' 
 
 In the choir are feveral brafs bajo-rel'ievo's of fcriptual hiftory, ex- Ba/Torelievos- 
 ecuted agreeable to the fubjefts they reprefent. Among thefe, Samfrm '"'''^ ^''"''■ 
 dying under the ruins of the idolatrous temple cannot be fufficiently 
 admired. The artift that made them was Pellano, a native of Padua, 
 who was a difciple of Dotiatello. The flails in the choir are alfo worth 
 feeing, being adorned with inlaid figures and fculpture. 
 
 Near the high altar, on the left-hand in going up to it, is a bronze Great altar. 
 candleftick, of a very extraordLuary fize, and incomparable workman- 
 fhip. On the altar fland fix fiiver candlefticks, near fix feet high, and 
 in the middle a crucifix of the fame metal, which is much taller. Be- 
 hind the altar, which is infulated or detached from the wall, a chapel 
 has been built, merely as a repofitory for reliques. 
 
 St. Francis a altar is remarkable for the delicacy of the workmanfliip C/^^^f/o/5/, 
 inpietre commeffe. It is alfo adorned with four black marble pillars, and "^"'=^*- 
 two flatues of white marble ;. one reprefenting Charity, the other Grief. 
 Among the many fuperb monuments in this church, that of Catferino 
 Cornelio is one of the mofi: remarkable : the epitaph was compofed by 
 the celebrated Qttavio Ferrari : 
 
 D. 0. M. CArrERINO CORNELIO. 
 
 j^ndrea Parentis fummi Ducis iinprcfja fangiiine 'vejiigia in/ijlens, omnes 
 honorian gradus emcnfus, Dalmatia, dein Cr^etce cum fianrna potefiaie Le~ 
 gatus, tricnniiim objcjja mctropoli., 7nanu^ confilio, exemplo nutaiitia jata, & 
 Juminum Urbis diem moratus ejl ; fed dum in propugnaculo maxime hojlihus- 
 infejlo dies noSteJque excubat, ollce. incendiat'ice fulmine c(elo ajfertus eji, Iti- 
 jidarum nobilijjimce una in cinej-es collapfce rogo funeratus. Federicus Corne- 
 lius Fratri incomparabili H. P. P. Ann. \l.DC.LXXIK 
 
 * Sacred to God the greatefl and befl of Beings, and to Catterino 
 ' Cornelio, who with hereditary courage treading in the fteps of An- 
 *■ drew his illufirious father, having paffed through all military degrees, 
 ' behaved with univerfal applaufe as commander in chief in Dalmatia; 
 
 • afterwards he defended Caridia for the fpace of three years, and by his 
 ' conduft, courage, and example, retarded the taking of that tottering 
 ' city J but being pofled in a baftion which, greatly annoyed the enemy,. 
 
 • while
 
 2o8 PADUA. 
 
 ' while he exerted himfelf night and day with indefatigable ardour, he 
 
 ' was removed to heaven by a red-hot boinb-fliell, and buried in the 
 
 ' ruins of the moft magnificent houfes, which were demoliOied at the 
 
 ' fame time. To his heroic brother, Frcderico Cornelio eredled this 
 
 ' monument in the year 1674.' 
 
 In the chapel of the Holy Sacramettt is to be feen the tomb of Erafmus 
 Gattamelata^ with an image of him in armour. The equeftrian ftatue 
 with which the republic of Venice has honoured the memory of this 
 General is the work of the celebrated Donatello, and ftands on the area 
 before this church. Oppolite to Erafimn lies his fon 'John Antony Gata- 
 melata, who, according to his epitaph, was not inferior to his father in 
 military glory. 
 
 Monument of jp St. Jofeplfi chapel is a beautiful monument of two brothers, of the" 
 ivo '■"•'''■•'• -f^fniiy of ^^^^^^/^/; it is of white marble, and adorned with ftatues. 
 The deceafed are highly celebrated in the epitaph, which is very extra- 
 vagant, for their profound knowledge in phyfic and anatomy, their fkill 
 in furgery, &c. &c. 
 
 Here is alfo a beautiful tomb of Pius Capilijlius, a Venetian general, 
 who died in 1557. 
 
 Tomb o/Otia.- Ottanjio Ferrari , a profefTor in the univerfity oi Padua, and celebrated 
 for his many learned works, lies buried between the chapels di S. Felice 
 and del Crojifijjo. His monument is fo magnificent, that few learned men 
 can boaft of the like. His epitaph is as follows : 
 
 OCTAVIO FERRARIO MEDIOLANENSI in quo ornando 
 G? extollendo jnagni Reges & Principes certarunt. Veneta Refpublica prce- 
 ter alia decoratnenta bis milk jlorcnonwi honor ario auxit. Ludovicus Mag- 
 nus, Francorum Rex, fponte aureorum quingentorum annuorum congiariiim 
 dill indiiljit. Chriftiua Augulla equejlri injigni cxtidit. Ille Reguni opes ac 
 munera animo aquatis, facundid, fide & conjilio inuidiatn aut vicit, aiit 
 glorice incitamention habuit. Stpteni & quadraginta annos cum admirntione 
 piiblici ai'.ditus eft. ^linto & feptiiageJ]imo obticuit, quamdiu Uteris honor 
 conjlahit fcriptis apiid pofteros locuturus. yulius Ferrarius P. B. M. P. 
 Anno MDCLXXXIV. 
 
 ' To the memory of Ottavio Ferrari of Milan, whom great mo- 
 " narchs and Princes ftrove with emulation to honour and prefer. The 
 
 * republic of Venice, befides other honours, fettled a penfion of two 
 ' thoufand florins on him. Leicis the Great, king of France, long 
 ' favoured him with a yearly penfion of five hundred Louis-dors. The au- 
 ' gall C/6r////«rt, queen of ^''zc-vi^d'//, conferred on him the orderof knighthood. 
 
 * His exalted foul equalled the wealth and munificence of kings ; and 
 . " 'by 
 
 v'lo Ferrari.
 
 ' PADUA. 209 
 
 * by his eloquence, fidelity, and wifdom, he cither conquered envy, or 
 ' made it an incentive to glory. His public ledlures were heard with 
 ' admiration for forty-feven years. In the feventy-fifth year of his age 
 ' death filenced his harmonious tongue ; but he will fpeak in his writ- 
 ' ings to pofterity as long as learning is honoured and efteemed. This 
 ' monument was eredled by Giulio Ferrari., as a mark of his tender 
 ' affeftion to the beft of parents, in the year 1684.' 
 
 Not far from this is the following epitaph on count Sicci\ tomb. 
 
 CO MIT I HORATIO SIC CO Monur^nt of_ 
 
 Patr. Pat. qui avitam glori am Jor tibia geftis amulatus, in propugnaculo '■^ "''"* 
 Viennce a Turcis objejjce Jagittd tramfixus^ cuniculi mind pene obrutus, de- 
 mum plumbed glande traje^Jus Urbis, Imperii, & Religionis niSlima concidit^ 
 a Leopoldo Augujio, ciijus in aula adokverat^ elogio Chrijliani Herois 
 decoratus. Vincentius Pajchalicm Patr, Venet, H, M, P. Anno Sal 
 MDCLXXXVI 
 
 Hac itur Rlyfium. 
 
 * To count Horatio Sicci, a nobleman of Padua, who in warlike ex- 
 
 * ploits emulating the glory of his anceftors, was dangeroufly wounded 
 
 * by an arrow in the defence of Vienna, when befieged by the Turks, 
 ' and was afterwards almoft buried by the fpringing of a mine j at 
 
 * length being fhot by a mufket-ball, he fell a glorious victim to the 
 
 * city, the empire, and religion, and was honoured by the emperor 
 ' Leopold, in whofe court he had been educated, with the elogium of 
 
 * being a Chriftian hero. Vincenzo Pafchali, a nobleman of Venice, 
 ' erefted this monument in the year 1686. 
 
 * By fuch brave adlions patriot heroes mount 
 
 ' i^therial heights, and find the way to heav'n.' 
 
 The celebrated fculptor Augi/ftino Zotto has fliewn his ikill in the xno- 
 xwym^nx. oi Alcjfandro Contareni ; under whofe ftatue is an infcription, 0/ Alexander 
 fignifying that he was commander in chief of the Venetian fleet again ft ^°"''"'^"'- 
 Adrian Barbaroffo, the Turkijl? admiral, ^c. &c. 
 
 Under the flatue of the celebrated cardinal Betjibo, eredled in this 
 church, is the following infcription : 
 
 PETRI B E MB I Car din alts iinaginetn Hieronymus ^iritms If ma- Monument ot 
 
 ' " ' ■ " " ■ " ' " ■ the carAi ' 
 
 Bembo. 
 
 (hi filiiis in publicum ponend. curavit, iit cujus ingenii momunenta aterna '^'^ '^'"'^""'■' 
 
 funt, ejus corporis qiioque memorla ne a pojteris dcfideretur. Vix. Ann. 
 'LXXVL Menf. VIL dies XXIX. Obiit XV. Cal. Febr. is^J. 
 
 Vol. III. E e Gieronimo
 
 2IO PAD U A. 
 
 ' Gierommo Slulrini, fon of JfJ.mael, caufed this image of cardinal 
 ' Pietro Bcmbo to be publicly eroded, that as the monuments of his genius 
 ' are eternal, the memory of his mortal part might alfo be perpetuated to 
 ' poflerity. He lived feventy-fix years, feven months, and twenty-nine 
 ' days, and died on the iSth o{ "January, 1547-' 
 
 The body of this famou'? cardinal lies at Home in the Dominican church, 
 called .S*. Maria Sopra Minerva, with the following epitaph : 
 
 //» epitapl. Petro Bemho Pair. Ven, ob ejus Jinguhires virtutes a Paulo III. Pont. Max. 
 in Sac. Coll. cooptato Torquatus Benibm pcjiiit. Obiit XV. Kalend. Februar. 
 1547. Vixit annos y^. menfes 7. dies 28. 
 
 ' To the memory of P/f/ro Bembo, a noble Venetian., who for his emi- 
 ' nent virtues was promoted to the facred college by Paul III. this mo- 
 ' nument was ereded by Torquato Bembo. He died yanuary 18, 1547, 
 ' aged feventy-five years, feven months, and twenty-eight days.' 
 
 Cardinal Bembo was a man of learning, and wrote very pure clafhc 
 Latin ; but was rather too clofe an imitator of the ancients, for which 
 he is ccnfured by ynlius Cafar, Scaliger, Gafper Francus, and Lipfius. It 
 is faid he was fo proud of his elegant Latin ftile, that he would often 
 fay, he would not exchange it for the dutchy of Mantua. Lanzius, m 
 his Oratio contra Italos, and others, charge him with having diffuaded 
 a friend from reading St. Pauls epillles *, and fays, that he himfelf 
 would never look into the Bible or Breviary, for fear of corrupting the 
 purity of his Latin ftile. It feems he wrote fome very obfcene and li- 
 centious compofitions in his younger days. 
 Learnfdlady. Laftly, near the north-gate of this church is the marble ftatue of a 
 very learned lady of the Cornara family, with the following panegyric 
 under it : 
 
 HELENM LUCRETIM CORNELI/E PISCOPTM, Job. 
 Baptijice D. Marci Procuratc}-is Fill a; Heroince, ajmni cclfttudine, pietate, 
 cajiimoniay omni literature & feptem linguarum peritia /ingidari, cum ab 
 aliis Europce Magjiatibus, turn irl jnaxime ab Innocentio XI. P. M. perho- 
 norifico diplomat e, & ab Jo. III. PokniiS Rege datis ad earn epijlolis fum- 
 
 * He might have read the epiflles in the original Greek without endangering his Latin ftile. 
 As for the Vulgate and mofl other Latin tranflations of St. Paul's epiftles, he might juitly 
 condemn them as barbarous, without any prejudice to his own charatier, or that of the 
 infpired v/riter; fo that the charge which this author mentions is no fign of the cardinal's 
 profanenefs. 
 
 mopcre
 
 PADUA, 211 
 
 niopere commerulatcA-;, qua pojJhabitis Vironwi Principum contmbiii, ante D, 
 Beneditli Antiftites Deo primum virghiitatcm vovit^ fwjl amplilj] cx;dibm in 
 aj'ceteria & peripmhim converjis, Jer?-ets uncis membra^ divinis philofop>hicif- 
 que contemplationibus maitein acriiis exercuit. Demum in cclebri Patav. 
 Collegia iinico pojl hominum memoriam excmplo Philojopbice Lauream adcpta, 
 Coronam pra'vmit, quam ipfi moriim i7mocentice aiigurabatur in ccvlo. Obiit 
 Amu MDCLXXXIV. XXV J. Jnlii, Mtatisfuce XXXV 111. 
 
 Cujus Momimentum 
 
 Hiero77ymus Cornelius Prater 
 
 Grwciore formCi corrigendum curavit 
 
 ppi'^^raphe jervatd 
 
 MDCCXXVIL 
 
 ' To the memory of Helena Liicretia Cornelia Pifcopia, the illuflrious 
 
 ' daughter of Giovanni Battifta procurator of St. Mark, who, for great- 
 
 * nefs of foul, piety, and chaflity, her perfedl knowledge of feven lan^ 
 
 * guages, and every branch of polite literature, was honoured with let- 
 
 * ters of commendation from feveral of the princes of Europe, particu- 
 ' larly from John III. king of Poland, and a very honourable diploma 
 
 * from his holinefs pope Innocent XI. {he declined many advantageous 
 ' offers of marriage from perfons of dift:in(ftion, devoted herfelf to God 
 ' at the altar of the BenediSiines ; and, having converted her fpacious pa- 
 
 * lace into a convent, mortified her body with great feverity, and in- 
 
 * ceffantly employed her mind in divine and philofophic contemplations. 
 
 * Laftly, (lie gained the palm of philofophy at a public adl in the univer- 
 
 * fity of Padua (of which there never was another inllance in the me- 
 ' mory of man) and thus anticipated that crown which her exalted vir- 
 ' tue and fandity of manners feemed to promife her in heaven. She 
 ' died in the year 1684, on the 26th day oi July, aged thirty-eight. 
 ' Her brother Gieronitno Qornelio caufed this monument be altered, and 
 ' embellifhed with new ornaments, ftill preferving the former epitaph, 
 
 * in the year 1727.' 
 
 This is only a memorial of this extraordinary lady's knowledge In di- Accemt^f 
 vinity and philofophy, and her uncommon fkill in aflronomy, mathe- ^"'■ 
 matics, and the languages ; her tomb being in the church of St. "JuPlincr. 
 She was born on the 5th day of Ju2ie, in the year 1646 ; and before flie 
 was eleven years of age took the vow of perpetual chaftity. On the 
 25th of Jtme, 1678, flie lield a public philofophical difputation at Pa- 
 dua, where the degree of docftor of phyfic v/as conferred on her with the 
 ufual folemnity. She would likewiie have been honoured with the fame 
 degree in divinity, had not cardinal Barbarigo, then bifliop of Padua, 
 
 E e 2 prohibiied
 
 21 2 PADUA. 
 
 prohibited It, under pretence, that by injundion of the apofllc Paul, 
 in I Cor. xiv. 34. no woman was allowed to teach in public. She 
 both underftood and fpoke Latin, French^ SpaniJ}:>, and ancient and mo- 
 dern Greeks with fluency and elegance. The academy of the Injecondi 
 at Rome eledled her as a member, and had a medal ftruck in honour 
 of her, having on one fide the bufto of this learned Indy, with the fol- 
 lowing infcription : 
 
 Helena Liicretia Cornelia Pifcopia 'Jo. Bap. Procurat. S. Marci Filia. 
 
 And on the reverfe, a laurel-tree with this legend : 
 
 Etiam infcecunda perennat. 
 
 Alluding to her perpetual virginity, and her admiffion into the aca- 
 demy of the Infecondi, as likewife to the immortal fame fhe acquired by 
 her extenfive knowledge and learning. 
 Other learned Anna Maria SchurtnaTinin, who lived in Holland, and was highly ce- 
 acmfn. lebratcd for her learning, and acquaintance with a variety of languages^ 
 
 was contemporary wirh this lady. She was born in the year 1607, and 
 died in the year 1678*. I have elfewhere (in Vol. I.) taken notice of 
 the three learned ladies at Milan -f- ; and Charles Patin's two daughters I 
 
 fhall 
 
 * When this learned lady's works were become fcarce, another ingenious perfon of the 
 fame fex publiflied a new edition of them, with this title, y^nniv Maria a Sihurmanmn 
 Dpnfcula Ebraa, Latina, Graca, Gallica, projaka isf 7netrica cum animadverfKnibus isf pmfatione 
 "Traugott. Chrijh Dorotheie Loeberia, Lipf. 1 749. She was born at Cologn on the. Rhine in 
 the year 1607 ; but having fpent mod of her time at Utrecki, the Dutch claim her as their 
 countrywoman. With no better right has Moller, in his Cimbria liieratr., clafled her among 
 the Holjiein Literati, only becaufe fhe had lived for feme time at Altena, where alfo was 
 printed the firfl part of her work, entitled MeUorii partis deSiio ib-j^- In the year 1678 (he 
 removed from Altena to IViewert, where (he died in the feventy-firft year of her age. The 
 motto fhe chofe fliews the pious difpofition of her mind. Amor ?neus crucifixus eji ; i. e. ' My 
 ' love is crucified.' The celebrated Dutch poet ^acob Cats, though fhe reje<3ed his ad- 
 ciieffes, often mentions her with the higheft praifes. 
 
 f No longer ago than the year 1733, Laura Maria Catharina Bajfis took a doftor's de- 
 gree at Bologna at the age of twenty- one, and was chofen a member of the academy called 
 injliiutmn Scicntiarum in that city. In 1731 I paid a vifit at a place called IVarnmnd, about 
 a league from Leyden, to Mr. Kenaruninin, the Arminian minifler there, and converfed with 
 his daughter Sarah Maria, who, though only in her twelfth year, played a thorough bafs 
 on the harpfichord admirably, had a perfeit knowledge of the Bible, was very well ac- 
 quainted with the heathen mythology, fpoke French, Englijh, Spanijh, High znd Loiv Dutch, 
 and had made a confiderable progrefs in the Latin language. She feems to be but of a 
 weakly conftitution ; and what is moft remarkable in this lady is, that fhe has made fuch 
 .iti extraordinary progrefs contrary to her inclination and the natural bent of her genius ^ 
 tor fhe was forced upon thefe ftudies by her father, only that he might have the honour of 
 having a leained daughter. In the year 1731, I was prefent at Z,f>v/t« at a divinity leiture on 
 
 the
 
 PAD U A. 213 
 
 fhall have occafion to introduce in the fequel. That women do not 
 want capacity for literary attainments may be (hewn from many un- 
 queftionable teftimonics * ; but the beft way for fuch extraordinary per- 
 fbns is to imitate the lady of the Cornara family, mentioned above, ■SLV\(\.Linrntd 11.0. 
 keep themfelves fingle. What 'Juvenal, in his fixth fatyr fays of a rich '■'"' ^""^ 
 woman, viz, 
 
 Intokrabilim nihil ejl, quam fcemina dives, 
 
 i. e. ' Nothing can be more infufferable than a rich wife,' 
 
 May poflibly with more juflice be applied to a learned lady. 
 
 the book of Revelation, held every Sunday by an old woman of a mean condition ; flie quoted 
 feveral paflages of the Old Teftament in the original language, and made fome critical 
 and grammatical remarks on thofe pafTages. She was commonly called the Hebrew wo- 
 man, on account of her knowledge of the Hebmu language. The freedom with regard to 
 religion allowed in Holland puts the commonalty of both faxes upon enquiries into thofe 
 parts of literature, which have any affinity with religion, more than in any other country. 
 In the year 1715, one. Teiierhof, a Um\V.-m&k.ev o( Jmjkrdam, ufed to read a ledture three 
 times a week, for fome hours, on Spinofa's philofophy ; and among his audience, which 
 moftly confifted of plebeians and v/as noted for filence and attention, were fevcra] young 
 women. The orator had indeed no great ftock of learning, but he had an admirable o-e- 
 rius, and expfefled himfelf with great propriety and clearnefs. Secretary iy^himfelf, 
 after fpending fome hours with this man, gave him the character of Ingcniurn vafUJJimmn ; 
 ' A moftcomprehenfive genius.' 
 
 * Laft year Donna Maria Gaetana Agnefi, a Milancje lady, gave an illuftrious proof that 
 the fair fex are capable of attaining to the higheft knowledge and fkill even in thofe 
 fciences which are thought to be the moft abftrufe. She publifhed a treatife on Algebra 
 with this title, InjUtuzioni anaiuiche ad ufo della Giovenla Italiana, printed in Milan 1 749, 
 2 vol. 4to. Laura Ccreta of Brefcia, and Signora Chiara Matraini of Lucca, with the late 
 marquifs de Chatekt, and a thoufand others were glaring proofs of the vaft extent of fe- 
 male genius. The fantaftical queen Chri/Vma of Sweden might have fpared her indecent 
 manner of expreffing herfelf, as being afhamed of her fex. In her travels (he had been 
 complimented with above two thoufand harangues compofed and delivered by perfons ce- 
 lebrated for their eloquence ; and yet it feems not one of them pleafed her majefty. 
 Bcurdelct, her phyfician, took upon him to ask her the caufe of this flrange diflike to the 
 orations made in praife of her ; to whom fhe anfwered, ' I am tired with being always 
 ' entertained with the fame tune; fuch as, the illuftrious daughter of the great Gujiavus ; 
 ' the tenth mufe ; the Sappho of our age; the ornament of my fex.' ' Thefe gentlemen 
 (continued fhe) ' are at a wonderful deal of pains in dinning my ears to put me in mind 
 ' that I am a woman ; tliis is what 1 am but too fenfible of without all this pother.' 
 Such was her contempt for, and the mean opinion fhe had of, her own fex. Dr. Argoud 
 oi Vienna feems to have been awaie of this foible ot Chrijiina ; for he never made ufe of 
 the word ^een throughout his whole fpeech. Accordingly it was the only harangue fhe 
 heard with patience ; and the author received fubflantial marks oi her approbation. In 
 drawing a comparifon between her and the moft diflinguifhed heroes, he afferted that fhe 
 not only equalled but furpaffcd them all. This piece of adulation flattered the vanity of 
 this fantaflric queen, who afFefted to be thought to have nothing of her own fex in her 
 compofition. See Abbe D'Artigny'i Nouveaux Me/noires cl'Hijiorique, de Critique, ^ de Lite- 
 rature, art. 26. Paris, I749- 
 
 On
 
 214 PADUA. 
 
 On the one hand, houfliold affairs and the education of children de- 
 mand an attention and adivity incompatible with the love of books ; on' 
 the other hand, St. Paul's faying, that knoivkdgepuffcth up, is efpecially 
 verified in women. A man, however learned he may be, ftill finds many 
 others of his fex who can enter the lifts with him, which checks the 
 filings of pride ; whereas a woman of learning being a rara avis, and 
 with whom very few of her own fex can come in competition, is infa- 
 tuated with fuch extraordinary talents, and fwells with an infupportable 
 haughtinefs and conceit. 
 Oratory f ii^'-- In the oratory of the Francifcan church, of which I am now fpeak- 
 francifcans. j^g^ are three large pieces of painting in /r^/^0 by T///<?«, befides feveral 
 fine monuments belonging to the Corrareji family. The tower of this 
 church is afcended by two hundred and fifty fteps, and yields a charm- 
 Fineproffea. ing profpcdt all over the adjacent large plain; but at the fame time it 
 difcovers the nakednefs of Padua : for it appears from the top of this 
 high tower that a great part of it is taken up with gardens, Cs'c. 
 Chiefa della The fmall church dei/a Anminciata has little remarkable except the 
 Annunciata. painting in frefco by Zotti. The oval area near it, called Arena, is 
 thought to have been anciently ufed for exhibiting fpedacles, like an am- 
 phitheatre. The palace built on it is likewife of an oval farm, and be- 
 longs to the noble Venetian family of the Fofcari. 
 Church cf St. St. Aiigufiines church belongs to the Dominican monks. The high 
 Augulline. altar is worth feeing on account of its fine fculpture and inlaid work ;_ 
 and in the choir are fome tombs of eminent perfonages of the Carrara 
 family, &c. 
 Monument of Not far from the altar di. S. Sahatore are the monuments of Charlotta 
 Chariotta ^ daughter of Jacob king of Cyprus, and of her mother Marietta. The 
 pTuTwi^r former died in 1480, but the latter in 1503. 
 
 viotber. The vcftry-altar is a very grand piece of fculpture adorned with feveral 
 
 ^^■^''^' exquifite white marble ftatues. Here alfo lie the Buzzacare?ia family, all 
 
 with very extravagant epitaphs. 
 library. In the convent are forty monks. Its library is well contrived but not" 
 
 large, and the manufcripts are kept in a feparate clofet. 
 Piiiureof A\- In the great gallery is fhewn a cell faid to have been that oi Albertus 
 bertusMag- Magjuis ; and under a pidlure of his, in this convent, is the following 
 diftich : 
 
 MAGNFS hie ALBER TVS Patavi auguftijjima proles 
 Cmiobii fpkndor, pahna, corona, decus. 
 
 ' Behold ! Albertus Mag7ius, the illuflrious native of Padua, the 
 ' crown, the glory, and ornament of this convent.' 
 
 In
 
 PAD U A. 215 
 
 In the church oF St.- Bartholomew, which belong? to the BenediSllne^'- E^irtUoio- 
 nuns, are fome good pieces of painting; but its other ornanients ^-e "'*'^' "^'" '"''''■ 
 mean, and the walls covered only with old tarnifhed gilt leather. 
 
 In the fiifl chapel on the left hand on entering the Capuchin church, dpuchin 
 lies the celebrated cardinal Commendon, whofe life has been written by '!:'"'!'- 
 Fkchier with all the judgment and elegance which recommend Iiis other „Ifcoii)men'- 
 biographical pieces. He died in the year 1584, on the yth o{ January, in^o"- 
 the fixty-fecond year of his age : 'His epitaph has nothing remarkable 
 in it. 
 
 The Carmeliie church, among other curious embelllflmients, is parti- Carmci;tc 
 cularly remarkable for fine fculpture. d'lmh. 
 
 In St. Andrea Corjini'% chapel is the following epitaph on a lady who Epitufj on a 
 dropt down dead during the celebration of her nuptials. t''''i(- 
 
 ELISABETH SALOMONIM Fatritice Vejtefc?, nupta, innupfa, iffo 
 fponfalium momento extinBa, Nicolaus Comes de Lazara Eques inter iitram- 
 que facem defolatijjimus pro thalamo tumulum pofuit, lit faltem cineres & 
 ojfa mifceret. An. MDCLXXIIl 
 
 ' To Elizabeth Salomojiia defcended from a noble Venetian family, 
 ' who was neither married nor fingle, but died in the very inflantof her 
 ' efpoufals ; this tomb was raifed by Nicolas count de Lazara, her af- 
 ' flidled hulband, inftead of a nuptial bed; that atleafl their aflies might 
 ' be mingled together. 1673.' 
 
 The cathedral is not yet finiflied, and the model of it is fixt againft Cathedral. 
 the wall at the entrance of the church. The bi(hop's annual revenues 
 exceed a hundred ihoni^-nA fcudi or crowns. 
 
 In the chapel of the Zabarclla family is fliewn a pi(flure of the vir2:in 
 Mary, painted, as is pretended, by St. Luke; which Robert king oi Naples 
 made a prefent of to Petrarch the famous Italian poet, and the latter be- 
 ftowed it on this church. 
 
 On the right hand of St. Carlos altar is the following epitaph : Epitaph of 
 
 Charles Patiii.' 
 
 D. O. M. 
 CAROLO PAT I NO 
 
 Prif. Equ. D. M. prifc. numifmat. ftudiis clarilj. famam celeberrimi pa- 
 tris amulato, e patrio in Patav. Lyceum excepto, pojl tot am Eiiropam luflra- 
 tam, pramiis & majorum Priticipum grati auSlo, cum c alumni a feliciter 
 luElato, ac pro fundamento virtutis fortunce ruinis ufb, ob veterem eruditio- 
 ncm erutam, pojierorum cultum promerita Magdalena Omnietz Parif. uxor, 
 Gdbr. Carola Santa Paulina, & Carol. Cath. Filice, extrenw amoris argu- 
 4 mcnto.
 
 2i6 PADUA. 
 
 menfo, mmucnfe Cajntuh parentant. Oh. An, MDCXCIII. X. OSl. cetal. 
 fuce An. LIX. McnJ. VII I. D. X. 
 
 ' To God the greateft and befl: of Beings,' 
 
 * And to the memory of Charles Patiu, knight, and dodor of phyfic, 
 
 * of the univerfity of Paris, who being, like his father, famous for his 
 ' knowledge of ancient coins and medals, was admitted a member of the 
 ' univerfity of Padua ; and, having travelled all over Europe, received fig- 
 
 * nal marks of favour and approbation from many fovereign princes j 
 
 * ftruggled with envy and calumny ; and fhone with fuperior luftre in 
 
 * adverfity, C^c. his affedionate wife Magdalen Ot7imetz 2l nziwt oi Paris, 
 ' Gabr. Carola Santa Paulina, and Carola Catherina his daughters ereded 
 
 * this monument, as the laft mark of their love, with the confent of the 
 ' chapter. He died on the loth day oi OSlober, 1693, aged 59 years, 
 
 * eight months and tea days,' 
 
 <Ihree learned In this epitaph mention is made of three ladies of uncommon eruditon. 
 •women of the Magdaku Ommetz, wife of Charles Patin, publifhed a book entitled Re- 
 ^meofP^M.^^^^.^ ^f Reflexions morales & Chretiennes in 1680. Their eldeft daughter 
 Gabriela Carola Santa Paulina, in the fame year, held a public difputation 
 on feveral philofophical Thefes, her father fitting as moderator, and wrote 
 a diflertation to fhew why the figure of the phoenix was ftruck on fome 
 of Caracalld% coins, which are ftill extant. Her younger fifter, Carola 
 Catharina Patin, made a public oration at Padua in the year 1683, on 
 account of raifing the fiege of Vienna, which was received with great 
 applaufe, and afterwards printed. In the year 1691 {he publifhed at 
 Padua, Tabella fele5lce & expli cater, or copper-plates of the moft cele- 
 brated paintings by the befl hands, as Titian, Paolo Veronefe, Leonardo da 
 Vinci, Tintoretto, Bajf'ano, Holbein, &c. with explanations of them. Both 
 thefe fiflers were members of the academy of the Ricourati at Padua. 
 irjciption on In the church of St. Francis at an altar over which is placed a mira- 
 an hr.agc of j.,^,]qus cruclfix, is the foUowing elegant infcription by Ottavio Ferrari. 
 
 Chrijli Scr-catoris imagincm, "cultus placidd majeftate ferenos, deciduis 
 atsrna: clementiee radiis atque admiraiidis operihus humano generi benefices 
 acfalutares, ah oh [euro & ig?Jobili loco in hanc augiifliorem fedem tranftulit 
 Pater PAULUS A PLEBE SACCI, eamque collatitid piorum flipe ad 
 fafligium perduxit, araque juggeflu & peregrifw rnarmore excoluit. Anno 
 MDCLXIX. 
 
 ' The image of our Saviour, Chrift-, whofe countenance majeflically 
 •^ ferene, beams with rays of infinite love and mildneis, and which has 
 
 A ' in
 
 P yl D U A, 217 
 
 ' In a wonderful manner and by innumerable inflanccs imparted its fa- 
 ' lutary virtues to affliifled mortals, was removed into this more con- 
 ' fpicuous fituation from an obTcure and mean place by father Pt7o/o a 
 ' Plebe Sacci, who, affifled by the contributions of devout perfons, com- 
 
 * pleated his pious defign, and eredted an altar of very coftly marble in 
 ' honour of it.' 
 
 In this church lies buried the celebrated civilian G/VrowV/zo Gzg-Wo, A^««,«w »/■ 
 who died at Padua in the year 1551. J'-TomCag- 
 
 On the right hand of the main entrance is the following florid "°°' 
 epitaph. 
 
 JACO BO SCARAB IC 10 Patavino, in quo Moderator temponim Epitaph on 
 munerumque largitor Deus, annos fimul ac virtutes contraxit ; cui annum Scarai^'cci. 
 quartiim jupra decinium vix age at i & moru/n hilegritas, ingenii fokrtia, 
 fermonifque blanditia fiitt , ut Patavinis civibiis foret excftipJo, amori & ad- 
 mirationi. Nui2C 'ueluti leSii/Jitnum in terris Jlorcm, cado jam grafijjimum, 
 quo No?ias Marfii non tarn veris, quam atheris ingrejjh in amnsnij/lmum de- 
 liciarum hortum fubijividi tra?ijlulerc Superi. Sebaftianus Pater, iti Pata- 
 vino Lycao Piiblicus Medlcince LeSfor, acerbijjimum animi dolorem hoc uno 
 kniens, quod jucundijjimo unici jilii confpeStu conviSluque in caelis iteriun 
 fruiturus, jlagrantis defiderii Monumentum pojuit. MDCLIF. 
 
 ■ ' To Giacopo Scarabicci, a native of Padua, to whom the eternal Be- 
 ' ing, who prefides over time, and is the giver of every noble endow- 
 
 * ment, was pleafed to allow a term of years very difproportionate to the 
 
 * extraordinary virtues and accomplifliments with which he had endued 
 
 * him J for the purity of his morals, the acutencfs of his genius, the ele- 
 
 * gance of his language and behaviour made him, at the age of four- 
 ' teen, the pattern, the delight, and admiration of the citizens oi Padua. 
 ' Now the heavenly powers, being enamoured of this moft fragrant 
 
 * flower, and as it were envying the earth the poiTeflion of it, tranfplanted 
 ' it to the celeftial paradife on the ninth oi March, which, inftead of a 
 
 * temporary, proved to him the entrance on an eternal fpring. Under 
 
 * fuch an affliftive lofs, the only comfort to Scbaftiajw his father, pro- 
 
 * feflbr of phyfic in the univeriity of Padua, is the confideration, that 
 
 * he fiiall again one day, in heaven, fee, and enjoy the converfation of, 
 
 * his dearly beloved fon ; to whom he has eredted this monument of 
 
 * his grief and tender affection.' 1654. 
 
 Whether the expreCfionfubiftvidi fuperi becomes a Chriftian pen, may 
 be quefiioned by fome, and be abfolutely condemned as profane by 
 others. 
 
 Vol. III. F f The
 
 2l8 
 
 Francefco di 
 I'aola. 
 
 Theatine 
 church. 
 
 Tomb o/'Bri- 
 ofci ill S. Gi- 
 ovanni inVer 
 daca. 
 
 IMemorial of 
 the fiege of 
 Padua. 
 
 Jullina. 
 
 V A D U A. 
 
 The chui-ch of 5. Francejco di Paola is fmall but very elegant, and 
 has an arched roof well painted. On the great altar are feveral marble 
 ftatues and a very rich tabernacle. 
 
 The Tbcatincs church, which is dedicated to S. Gaetatw, is entirely 
 lined with Marmo pavofiazzo, or a violet-coloured marble, beautifully va- 
 riegated with white; and has feveral other ornaments well worth feting. 
 The altar is adorned with eight fine pillars of black and white marble, 
 and a reprefentation of our Saviour in his agony on the mount oi Olives, 
 admirably cut in wood, in the middle. In the veftry are fliewn two 
 pieces reprefenting martyrdoms, painted by Paolo Veronefe. It is well 
 known that the T'heatine monks derive their name from Theati, a fmall 
 epifcopal fee in the kingdom of Naples, where the order was firft infti- 
 tuted in the year 1523. 
 
 On the- outfide of the church di S. Giovanni in Verdaca or Viridario, 
 is a monument of Briofci, a ftatuary of Padua, who, if his epitaph does 
 not run in the ufual ftrain of thofe compofitions, was a very extraordi- 
 nary artift, and emulated the ancients. 
 
 Over the entrance into the garden belonging to the convent adjoin- 
 ing to this church are to be feen two iron cannon balls, and between 
 thefe a third of white ftone, faid to have been fhot into the wall at the 
 fiege of Padua by the emperor Maximilian I. with this infcription under 
 them alluding to the imperial ftandard, ^c. 
 
 Ales Jovis ter maximi. 
 Main's Deorum Bijuges 
 His lufitabant fphceridis, 
 Non ergo lucri (§ janguinis., 
 Sed imperii, Jed gloria. 
 
 ' With fuch little fpherical balls as thefe, great yove's eagle and the 
 ■^ lions of Cyl>ele played, not for gain, or blood, but for glory and 
 ' empire.' 
 
 St. Jujlina's church is an elegant and magnificent edifice, and in many 
 particulars refembles that of St. Paul at London. It is divided into three 
 naves or ifles, and is very well enlightened. The altars, which, exclu- 
 fwe of the high altar, amount to twenty-four, are embellished with the 
 fineft fculpture, and Florentine work oi lapis Lazuli, mother of pearl, jaf- 
 per, agate, (ic. Even the pavement about the altar is inlaid work, and 
 that of the church of red, white, and black marble curioufly arranged. 
 This church is adorned with nine beautiful cupola's, three of which are 
 larger than the reil, and have galleries with a balluftrade on the infide. 
 
 The
 
 PAD U A. 219 
 
 The ornaments of this church are daily increafing ; and will never be. 
 difcontinued, for this prudential reafon, that whilft any work is carrying 
 on very large funis left by legacies, Q?c. accrue to the convent to which 
 the church belongs : Befides, the ftated revenue of it is computed at 
 a hundred thoufand ducats. This church is built in the form of a Latin 
 crofs, and the length of it within, the choir included, is a hundred and 
 eighty-three common paces, and the breadth feventy-eight : The length 
 of the crofs-ifle is a hundred and twenty-eight fuch paces. 
 
 The martyrdom of St. yuftina, an admirable piece painted by Paolo 
 Veronefe, hangs over the high altar. There are two organs placed oppo- 
 fite to each other in the choir ; and the ftalls are adorned with incompa- 
 rable bajfo relievo's reprefenting hiftorical pafTages out of the Old and New 
 Teftament. Thefe pieces were executed by one Riccard, a Frenchman., 
 who fpent no lefs than two and twenty years in carving thefe exquilite 
 pieces. 
 
 Befides the remains of St. "Juftina and other faints, this church Miqim. 
 boafts of being pofTeffed of the body of St. Luke the evangelifl j which,, 
 however, occafioned great difputes between the BejiediBines, to whom 
 this church and convent belong, and the Francifcam of St. °Job'''a church 
 at Venice., who maintained that the genuine body was in their pofTeffion. 
 But at length pope Gregory XIII. decided the point in favour of the Pa- 
 duans; however the head of the fame evangelifl is fliewn at Rome in the 
 church of the holy Apoftles. As all the ornaments of this church are 
 new, no old infcriptions are now to be feen here, except a long narra- 
 tive near the pretended remains of St. Luke, which is inferted in Sala- 
 moni's Infcriptiones urbis Pativince*. The celebrated learned lady of the 
 Cornara family, whom I have often mentioned before, lies in the burial- 
 place of the monks according to her own requefl:, and the monks ereded. 
 a monument to her memory in the year 1684. 
 
 Eighty BenediBine monks conftantly refide in this convent. Their li- 
 brary is extremely well chofen, and ornamented with fine fculptures. 
 The convent confifls of feveral courts, and in the cloifler of the largeft 
 court the whole life of St. Benediti is painted in frefco, and illuflrated 
 with Latin verfes. 
 
 Before the church of St. yuftina is 2l piazza or area anciently called 
 Campus Martins, but now known by the name of Prato della Valle. On 
 the firft Saturday of every month a market for cattle is kept in this place; 
 and the vulgar are perfuaded that during the greateft heats of fummer 
 no gnats or flies are to be feen in this market. As I happened to be there 
 
 * This work was publifhed at Padua in 4to in the year 1701. But is full of typogra- 
 phical errors. 
 
 F f a ©111
 
 2 20 PADUA. 
 
 •on a market-day, I could from ocular demonftration confute this idle 
 tradition, which, though it be evidently falfe, paffes here for a certain 
 truth. Between Prato della Voile and St. yujlina's church is a place fe- 
 parated by a ditch to preferve it from being profaned by the cattle, be- 
 caufe a great number of martyrs are fuppofed to have been put to death 
 there; on which account it is diftinguifhed by the na.me of il Campo 
 Santo or the Holy-Field. 
 Suppofed gra've In the year 1273, in laying the foundation of the hofpital called La 
 cy Antenor. q^j^ ^j jj^^ gpj q\^ leaden coffin was found, and in it a fword, on which, 
 according to Scardeoni, were the following unintelligible lines. 
 
 Oh/cure in- * Ciiin fuper. A, fumes prmum tibt Durdane gramma 
 
 faiftion. AnxtUum a Juperis Juhito tibi Numine clama. 
 
 Heu Patavmn qui te profugus conjiruxit ab igne 
 
 Midtoties tali pefli JubjeSle malignce. 
 
 Mors cita, vita brevis, Patavos in Pace volentes 
 
 Vivere, non pajfa ejl, gens hoc fatale ferentes 
 
 Admonet, & punit nullo dijcrimine Gives. 
 
 In order to flrike out, at any rate, fome elucidation of this prophetic 
 infcription, it has been obferved, that the government of all the fovereigns 
 and lords of this city, whofe name began with an A, as Attila, Accio- 
 lim,At!fedif, Albert Scaliger, Andrea Neri, &c. were extremely tyran- 
 nical and unfortunate. This fword is fxid, in the year 1334, to have been 
 delivered up to Albert Scaliger according to his command ; but the 
 above-mentioned coffin was, in the year 1283, fet up on the left hand of 
 the main entrance into St. Laurence's church ; and being fuppofed, for 
 what reafon I cannot conceive, to be the tomb of Antenor the Trojan, 
 Lupatus de Lupatis, one of the magiftrates of this city, and a man of 
 learning caufed the following verfes to be cut in Gothic charaders on the 
 ftone cafe in M'hich it is inclofed : 
 
 C. Liclitus Antenor pairia vox nija quietem 
 
 TranfluUt hue Rncduin Dardanidianque fugas, 
 
 Expulit Euganeos PataviTia ccndidit urbem 
 S(uam tenet hie humili marmore cefa domus. 
 
 The firft line of this infcription feems to convey no meaning. On the 
 other fide of the cafe are the following lines fliev/ing the date 1284, 
 when this ccffin was fet up here, Gff. 
 
 t This infcription muft liave been the compofition of the monks, as appears by the 
 iliyn-iC, ijc. 
 
 Cum
 
 PADUA, 221 
 
 Cum quater alma Dei natalia viderat Orbis 
 
 Pojl decies oSlo milk ducentafuper, 
 Extulit hac Padua Pmfes, cut notnen Olive 
 
 Cognomen Cleri, patria Floris erat. 
 
 On the arch under which the coffin is placed are thefe words : 
 
 Potejiate nobili viro D. Pant one de Rubeis, de Florentia, perfeSlum fuit 
 hoc opus. 
 
 * This work was completed when Fanfoni de Rubeis a native of Flo- 
 * rence was Podejla of this city.' 
 
 The abovementioned Fantoni was three times Podefia of the city, o/Antenoi',- 
 namely, in the year 1284, 1285 and 1295. Virgil, JEn. I. v. 246, ©* Patavium. 
 feq. fays, indeed, that Antenor built a town called Pat avium. And with 
 him alfo agrees Seneca, Confol. ad Helviam, c. 7. But according to the 
 poets defcription, that city muft have been built on the river T'imavus, 
 which empties itfelf -f- into the fea near Aquiliei, and not on the banks 
 of the Brenta. His words are : 
 
 Antenor potuit mediis elapfus Achivis 
 Illy ri cos penetrarejinus, at que ijitima tutus 
 Regna Liburnorum, (S fontem fuperare T'imavi : 
 Unde per ora novem vajto cinn murmur e mentis 
 It mare praruptum & pelago premit arva fonanti. 
 Hie tamen ille urbem Patavi-, Jedefque locavit 
 Teucrorum — — — 
 
 • Frondentihus himiiila rip'ts 
 
 Colla levant, pulcher Tidnus, W AtUua vifu 
 Ctmdei:s, velox Athcf.i, tuvdufque meatu 
 Mincius, inque novem confurgem ora Timcrvus. 
 
 ' Her dropping locks the filver TeJJin rears ; 
 
 ' The blue tranfparent Adda next appears ; 
 
 ' The rapid Adige then erects her heaJ ; 
 
 ' And Mkcio rifmg flowly from his bed ; 
 
 ' And laft Tininvus, that with eager force 
 
 ' From nine wide mouths comes gufliijig to his courfe.' Jddijou. 
 
 AntaiOT
 
 222 
 
 PAD U A. 
 
 Of the Eu- 
 ganei. 
 
 S. Maria delle 
 Gratie. 
 
 S. Maria de' 
 
 Servi. 
 
 Church of St. 
 Philip and 
 St. James. 
 
 Luther'.' ful- 
 
 * Antenor, from the mid ft of G red mi hofls, 
 
 ' Could pafs fecure, and pierce th' Illyrian coafts : 
 ' Where rolling down the fteep, Timavus raves, 
 ' And thro' nine channels difembogues his waves. 
 
 • At length he founded Padua s, happy feat, 
 
 ' And gave his Trojans a fecure retreat.' Dryden. 
 
 Virgil and Claudian attribute nine mouths to the Timavus ; whereras 
 Strabo mentions only feven ; with whom alfo Mardal iLgrecs. 
 
 The Euganei, in whofe country Antenor, after he had conqnercd 
 them, is faid to have built the ancient Patavium, according to Livy^ 
 lib. i. c. I. inhabited the country that lies between the Adriatic gulph» 
 and the Alps. Hence Pliny alfo calls them Graiarum Alpium incola ; 
 /. e. • The inhabitants of the Grecian Alps' So that their country ap- 
 pears to have been fituated towards the north-eaft, and at a great diftance 
 from the modern Padua. However, their colonies, in procefs of time, 
 might have extended themfelves towards Verona ; and this conjedure is 
 favoured by Pliny. 
 
 S. Maria delle Gratie is an elegant church, and belongs to the Domi^ 
 nican monks. 
 
 5. Maria de' Servi is fo called from the order of monks to which it 
 belongs, who have afTumed the name of Servi diva Maria, or, as they 
 are commonly called, Servites. A connoifleur in fculpture will be highly 
 pleafed with the altar in the middle of the church, and the exquifite 
 bajj'o relievo's of bronze on the monument of the civilian Paolo de Cajlro, 
 who died towards the clofe of the fifteenth century. 
 
 The church of St, Philip and St. James belongs to the eremetical fa- 
 thers of St. Auguftin. This church and the convent to which it belongs is 
 remarkable for being the place, where great numbers of Germans and 
 other foreigners, have according to their defire, been depofited. Around 
 the genealogical tree of Luca Salvioni, a civilian, are thefe words : 
 
 O quhn tnifera fortunUy qua caret invidid. 
 
 ' How wretched is that ftate of life that is not envied ? ' 
 
 The chapel belonging to the family of Zabarella is beautifully painted 
 by Andrea Mantegna ; and in the veftry is a pidure of John the Baptijly 
 by Guido Rbeni. 
 
 In the wall on the outfide of this church is to be feen a ftone pulpit,, 
 in which Luther is faid to have preached. The antiquary who attended 
 
 us
 
 PAD U A. 223 
 
 us very gravely affiired us, that Luihcr was 701 gran pcdicatore^ i. e. ' A fa- 
 mous preacher;' but that being dilappointed by one Pope of a cardinal's hat, 
 which another Pope had promiled him, he out of rcfentment, gave 
 himfelf up to a very ftrange heretical way of preaching. 
 
 In the church of St. Sophia the German fludents of phyfic, or ex or- Church of St. 
 dine gratiofo, as they are ftyled in fome infcriptions, are generally buried. ^°P"''''- 
 On a white marble tabic, facing the high altar, are thefe words : 
 
 SereniJJimi 
 Ferdinand i Cnroli Gonzaga; ^ ^kfrf 
 
 Ducis Mantiice, Mont isf err. Carolop. &c. mcntiiiima ' 
 
 ClemcntiDinia vijcera. vifcera. 
 
 V. Jul. Amu Sal. MDCCVIII. 
 
 * Here are depofited the moft compaflionate bowels of the ferene 
 
 * Ferdinand Carlo Gonzaga, Duke of Mantua, Montferrat, G?f. on the 
 
 * fifth day oi July, 1708.' 
 
 ClementiJJima vifcera is a very uncommoti phrafe, and I fuppofe the 
 ingenious author alluded to the Greek word <TiT\ot.yyjx., which, metaphori- 
 cally, is often ufed to denote pity, compaflion, Gfc. 
 
 In the church del Spirito Santo lies Scipio Gonemi, who, as his epitaph Chunh del 
 fays, died at the age of ninety-fix, on the fame day and the fame hour ^'"^° ''^"^°' 
 in which he was born. 
 
 The church of St. Thomas of Canterbury belongs to the fathers of the si. Thomas'j 
 Oratory o( S. Filippo Neri; vAio have afligned five feparate burying- vaults f'^""''^- 
 for fo many different clafTes of men, women, and children, with infcrip- 
 tions over every one of them. 
 
 The principal among the civil edifices of Padua is // Palazzo della ra- Totun-houfi. 
 ^ione, fo the town-houfe, though the great hall does not anfwer com- 
 mon report. The plan of it is rhomboidal : It is a hundred and twenty- 
 four common paces in length, ajld forty-three in breadth. The roof is 
 proportionably lofty, and arched, being flrengthened at the top with 
 crofs iron bars, and covered with lead on the outfide. On the cieling, 
 Giotto, afiifted by fome of his difciples, has allegorically reprefented the 
 influences of the fun in the twelve figns of the Zodiac. But after all, 
 this apartment has not a proper light for fine paintings, and is not kept in 
 any tolerable order. In going up to this hall, which is in the fecond 
 ftory, over the firfl door on the left hand, is a flatue of Livy the hiflo- 
 rian, with thefe words under it : 
 
 T. Livius Pativinus, Hijloricorum Latini nominis facile prificeps, cujus Infcription. 
 doBrinam Gf laBeam eloquentiam atas ilia, quae virtute pariter ac eruditione 
 jlorebat, adeo admirata efl, ut multi Romam non lit urbem rerwn pulcherri- 
 4 mam.
 
 224 PAD U A, 
 
 tnam^ aut Urbis ^ Orbis 'Domhnim OSfavlamim, fed lit hitnc 'uirwn invife- 
 rent andirevtque a Gadibtis profe^i Jhit. liic res omncs, qiias Popul. Rom. 
 pace belloque gfjjit-, quaiuordecim Decadibiis mirdjlyli facilitate compkxus, 
 fbi ac patria gloriam peperit fetnpiternam. 
 
 ' T'itus Livius, a native of Padua, the chief of all the Latin hiflo- 
 
 ' rians, whofe learning and flowing eloquence, even the age in which 
 
 ' he lived, when virtue and learning were at fo great a height, admired 
 
 ' to fuch a degree, that feveral perfons came from the remoteft parts of the 
 
 * weft, not to fee Rome (though it was the mod magnificent fight on earth) 
 ' or the great ^/(^z^/«f, who was emperor of that city, and of the whole 
 ' world, but to fee and hear this great man. His hiftory of all 
 
 * the civil and military tranfa(flions of the Roman people comprized in 
 ' fourteen decads, and written with wonderful purity and elegance of 
 ' ftile, is an everlafting monument of glory to himfelf and his country.' 
 
 This ftatue holds a book, in which thefe words are legible : 
 
 Parvus ignis magnum fcepe fufcifat incendlwn. Excefjit h vita VI. Ti- 
 berii Cafaris anno, cetatis verb [uce LXVI. 
 
 ' A little fire often kindles a large conflagration. He departed this 
 ' life in the fixth year of the reign oi Tiberius, and the fixty-fixth of 
 ' his age.' 
 
 Albertus Pa- Over the fecond door on this fide of the town-houfe, flands a bufto of 
 
 tavinus. Albertus Patavinus, with the following infcription : 
 
 Albertus Patavinus Heremitana Religionis fplendor, continentqfimee vita, 
 finiptd Parifiis infuU Magifrali, in Theologia tantum projecit, ut Pa'ulum, 
 Moyfen, Evangelia, ac Libros Sententiarum laudatiffitne expofuerit. Factin- 
 difjimus ed at ate concionator ifnmortali memoria optima jure datur. '■< 
 
 ' Albertus Patavinus, the glory of the eremitical order, a perfon ot 
 ' the mofl: exemplary chaftity, who having entered into the order of 
 
 * priefl:hood at Paris, made fuch progrefs in the fludy of divinity, that 
 
 • his expofitions of St. Pauls Epiftles, the Pentateuch, the Gcfpels, and 
 ' the book of Proverbs, were juftly received with applaufe. The mod 
 ' eloquent preacher of his age, as he undoubtedly was, well deferves a 
 ' lafting monument to tranfmit his name to pofl;erity.' 
 
 Pietro Aponi. Over the door of the hall, on the other fide of the building, is a 
 flone image of Pietro Aponi, with this in(cription : 
 
 4 Petrus
 
 PAD U A. 225 
 
 Petrm Aponin Fat. Phihfopics Mcdicinaqiie fcu'nti[f. oh idqtie Coixiliatoris 
 nomen adeptus., Ajirohgm verb adeo peritus, lit in Magice fufpicionem hiciderit^ 
 falfoqiie de hcerefi pofiulatiis., abjblidus fiiit . 
 
 ' Pictro Apoiil nf Padua, called the Conciliator for his profound 
 ' knowledge in philofophy and phyfic. His flcill in aftrology was fo 
 ' great, that it caufed him to be rufpe<5led of being a magician, and 
 
 * confequently he was charged as guilty of herefy ; of which, however, 
 ' he was acquitted.' 
 
 On what groundsP/V/ro Aponi is faid to have been acquitted by 'ihz Proceedings cf 
 Inquifition I cannot conceive. Spondaniis, in his Annal. Ecclef, and '''^ ^"i"'^'"". 
 other writers, exprelly lay, that Aponi died during his trial, and was pri- "^'""'^ ^°'''*' 
 vatejy buried ; but that the Inquifition carried on the profecution after 
 his death, and for want of the criminal's real body, burnt him in 
 effigy. Naiide, in his Apologie des grands hommes acciifh de Ma^ie, 
 c. 14. Bayle, in his Diclionaire Crit. and M. Henman, in his Acla 
 Pbihjoph. Art. 3. have vindicated this learned man againft the charge 
 of forcery. But indeed in thofe times a fmall fkill in the fciences was 
 fufficient to make a man fufpeded of magic and dealing with the devil. 
 Aponi o^Nt^ the tide of Co^c/V/^r/or, to a book that he publiflied in the 
 year 1483, in folio, with the title of Conciliator differentiarum Philofo- 
 phorum prcecipue Medicorum. His life has been written by Tomafini in Elo^s;. 
 Illufl. viror. p. 0.2. and Scardeoni., de antiq. Urbis Patavii & claris ejus 
 ciinbus. But the latter is fomething inaccurate : for according to hirn, 
 Pietro Aponi died in the year 13055 whereas, from other authorities 
 and circumftances, it is evident that he lived till the year 13 16, and 
 died at the age of fixty-fix. 
 
 Over the other door is the ftatue of Paidus Pataviniis, with the fol- 
 lowing pompous encomium under it : 
 
 Pauliis Pata-vifuis Jurifconfultoriiin clarijf. hiijtis nojlra urbis deem ater- hfcnpHo,! m- 
 num, Akxandri Mammce temporibus Floruit., ad Praturam, Prcefe^uram,'^"'^^?^^^ 
 Confidatumque eveSius, ct/jufque fapientia?n tanti fecit 'Jujlinianus hnp. ut *^^'^°"^' 
 nulla ?ton Civilis Juris particula hiijus legibus decor etur, qui fplcn dor e fames 
 immortalisy oculis pojleritatis admirandus, infigni imagine hdc merito decor. 
 
 ' Paulus Patanjinus, the moft eminent of civilians, and the eternal 
 
 * ornament of this our city, who flouriflied in the time of Alexander 
 ' 7W<:ZOTOTtf, and was promoted to the praetorfhip, prcefecflure, and con- 
 
 * fulate, whofe wifdom the emperor fuftintan held in fuch high 
 ' efteem, that he made great ufe of his maxims to embellifli every part 
 
 Vol. III. G g 'of
 
 ,^26 PAD V A. 
 
 * of his Inftitutes of the Roman law, and whofe fame is immortal, is de- 
 ' fervedly honoured with this flatue, that he may be admired by pofte- 
 
 * rity.' 
 
 On the wefl-fide of the hall, under a marble ftatue, this infcription 
 is to be feen : 
 
 irn APISTOTEAEI NOEEIN KIKEPONI TE EIPEIN 
 J ^.^^ SPERO NO SPERONIO japientiJ]imo, eloquent ijjimo, Optimo & Viro 
 
 wider Spero- ^ Civiy Virtutcm Merit aqiie a5la vita, fapientiam, eloquentiam declarant 
 nus Spero- fcripta, puhUco Decreto Vrbis ^atiior-Viri P. Anno a Chrijlo nato 
 ,nus's/.„ue. j^j^xCIV. Ab iirbe vero conditd MM. die XL 
 
 * To Speroniii Speronius, who was equal to Arijlotle in reafoning, and to 
 
 * 'Tully in eloquence ; a perfon eminent for wifdom, probity, and pa- 
 
 * triotifm ; whofe virtue and merit fhone in his life ; whofe wifdom and 
 ' eloquence appear confpicuous in his writings, this ftatue was ereded 
 
 * by a public decree in the year 1 594 of the Chriflian jera, and in the 
 ' two thoufandth year and eleventh day from the building of the city.' 
 
 A marble bufto of Livy is fixed againft the wall ; and under it, upon 
 another flone, is the following infcription : 
 
 V, F. 
 
 T. LIVIVS 
 
 LIVIAE T. F. 
 
 QVARTAE L. 
 
 HALYS 
 
 CONCORDIALIS 
 
 PATAVI "-^-.^ 
 SIBI ET SVIS 
 OMNIBVS. 
 
 This is an ancient infcription, and was found near the place where 
 a temple oi Concord ioxva^xVj flood. Others pretend that it was dug up 
 under the foundation of St. 'Jujlin% church, about the middle of the 
 fourteenth century. The head that is fixed over this infcription is a 
 beautiful antique : but whether the bufto and infcription were defigned 
 for Livy the hiftorian is another queftion. Sertorius Urfatus in Marmor. 
 erud. p. 142. according to the information given him by Marqiiard 
 Giidius, conjedlures, with very great probability, that the latter belonged 
 
 to a freed man of Titus Livius's daughter. 
 
 The
 
 PAD U A, 227 
 
 The 'P(tduam are firmly perfuaded that the bones found inclofed in a^ivyv r». 
 leaden coffin in St, Jujiina'?, church, in the year J413, niuft have been '""'"■ 
 thofe of Livy ; and accordingly they were brought with great folemnity 
 into the council-houfe, by order of X'lccone Poknto?ii, who wfis chan- 
 cellor of Padua at that time and may be reckoned among the chief re- 
 ftorers of learning in Italy. Under the aforefaid ancient infcription 
 are the following words : 
 
 1". Livi'us quarto Imperii 'Tib, 
 Caefarii anno vita excejjit, 
 Mtatis verofua LXXVII. 
 M. D. XLVIL 
 
 . ' 1". Livy died in the fourth year of the reign of Tiberius Ccefar^ and 
 ' in the feventy-feventh of his age. j 547.' 
 
 On the outfide over the door leading to the Officium Sanitatis, or Board 
 of Health, are thefe words : 
 
 OJfa T. Livii Patavini uniiis omtiium mortaliiim judicio digni, cnjus props 
 inviSfo calamo inviSii populi Romani res gejlce confcriberentur An. 1548. 
 
 ' Here lie the bones of T. Livy, a native of Padua, whofe matchlef* 
 * pen alone, in the opinion of moll men, was qualified to tranfmit to po- 
 ' ilerity the noble atchievements of the invincible Rojjians. 1548.' 
 
 The proofs on which the opinion, that the bones found in the year 
 141 3 did belong to Livy the hiftorian, refls, are fo far from amounting to 
 a demonftration, that it is dubious whether they are not the fkeleton of 
 a female. Indeed Xiccone Polentoni, in a letter to Nicolini Nicoli of Flo- 
 rence concerning thefe bones, mentions the future of the ikull as a proof 
 of the fex of the perfon to whom it belonged ; but fuch uncertain marks 
 modern anatomifls will not eafily fubfcribe to. 
 
 Afmius Pollio cenfures Lzi^y's fiile for a fort oi Patavinity or provincial u-vysfau 
 dialed * ; but it does not abfolutely follow from thence that Livy was a "/"atM'y- 
 native of the city now called Padua. Statius, lib. jv. Silv. 7. ad Maximum 
 yunium, calls Livy, Timavi alumnus ; but the courfe of the river Timavus 
 is at a confiderable diftance from Padua ; for it runs between Triefte and 
 Aquikia (as has been already obferved) where Antenor built his Patavium. 
 Probably Sidonius Apollinaris in Paneg. Anth. points at Livy's writings 
 in thefe hnes : 
 
 * See ^dntil. lib. I. jnjllt. Oral. c. 9. ^nd lib. viii. cap. 1. 
 
 G g 2 ~ ~, - I'el
 
 228 PADUA, 
 
 - - - vel quidquid in aviim 
 Mittimt Euganeis Patavina 'volumina chartis. 
 
 ' Or whatever the Patavian volumes, made oi Euganean paper, conlign 
 ' to imniortiiHty.' 
 
 But the Montcs Euganei cannot be placed in the territories of the mo- 
 dern Padua (as has been faid above) without greatly perplexing the an- 
 cient geography. On what authority Eufebms fays, in his Chronicon, 
 that Livy died at Padua, I know not ; but that Apona was the place of 
 his nativity Martial feems to intimate, in lib. i. epigr. 62. 
 
 Cenfetur Apona Liviojuo tellus 
 Stellaqiie, ncc Flacco minus. 
 
 This celebrated hiftorian might be furnamed Patavinm from the 
 neighbouring city of Patavium, as Virgil is called the Mantuan poet, 
 though he drew his firfl breath at Andes, a village that is fituated not 
 far from Mantua. This conjedure would be the more plaufible, were 
 it afcertained that ^t Pontes Patavini mentioned by Pliny, lib. \\. c. 103. 
 and lib. xxxi. c. 6. were the hot baths o^ Apona, which lie at the dif- 
 tance of four Italian miles and a half from Padua, and, no doubt, were 
 well known in ancient times *. If Livy was a native of Padua, the 
 name Timavus muft have been applied by the ancients to two different 
 rivers. 
 Motmmentatid In the hall of the council-houfe at Padua is a monument, with a 
 death of the ^^ufj-g of the marchioncfs d'Obizzi, who, when a gentleman of Padua, 
 d'Obizz'i. in the abfence of her hufband, had clandeftinely conveyed himfelf into 
 her bed-chamber, chofe rather to be ftabbed by the ravifher, who was 
 enraged at the reliftance fhe made, than violate the honour of the mar- 
 riage bed. Befides other proofs againfl: this execrable affaffin, one fhirt- 
 fleeve-button, exadly refembling that which he wore in the other 
 fleeve, was found on the lady's bed. The marchionefs's only fon, then 
 but -five years of age, whom the affaffin removed out of the bed before 
 he made any attempt on her chaftity, was likewife produced as an evi- 
 dence againft him ; but by reafon of his tender age, his depofitions 
 were not thought fufficient to convidl the villain. He ftood the torture 
 feveral times, but his life could not be touched ; and after fifteen years 
 imprifonment, his friends procured him his liberty ; which, however, 
 
 "^ VicL Lucmu l:b. vii. Claudian. cpig. viii. Sih ltd. lib, xii. Mart, lib, vi. ^c. 
 
 he
 
 PADUA, 229 
 
 he did not long enjoy: for the above-mentioned {ox\ of the unfortunate 
 marchionefs (liot him through the head foon after his enlargement, and 
 thus revenged the barbarity committed againfl his mother *. Under the 
 marble bufto of the marchionefs are thefe words : 
 
 Venerare pudicitice Jimulacrum & •viBimam Liicretiam de Dondis ab 
 Horologio, Pit Mnece de Obizzonibiis, Orciani Marchionis, uxor em. Hac 
 inter no£fis tenebras, jnaritalcs a[]cre7n tadas, J'uriales receniis 'Tarqid-nji 
 faces cajlo encore extinxit, ficque Komanam Liicretiam intemerati tori gk/id 
 idcit. Tantce fuce Heronice generojis Ma?iibiis banc dicavit aram Civitas Pa- 
 tavina. Decreto die 3 1 Decembris Anni MDCLXL 
 
 * Reader, revere this image of a noble vidim to chaflity, namelv, 
 
 * Lucretia de Dondis, the worthy confort of Pius Mneas d' Obizzi, ma'r- 
 ' quis of Orciani, who, in the darknefs of the night, preferved the pure 
 ' flame of conjugal chaflity, and with her chafte blood extinjjuiflied the 
 
 * brutal fire of a modern Tarquins luft; fo that fhe furpaflfed the plorv 
 ' of the Roman Lucretia, in preferving the honour of the marriage-bed 
 ' inviolable. To the illuflrious manes of fo great a heroine, the city of 
 ' Padua dedicated this altar by a public decree, December 31, 166 1.' 
 
 * That the heroic chaflity of the marchionefs d' Obizzi fliould be per- 
 petuated with fuch a memorial is very proper ; but it muft be allovi'ed 
 
 the like honour is no lefs due to a chafte young women, called IJabella Virtue of a 
 Ravagnina, who, when Maxitniliafi I. had made himfelf mafter o^ Pa-"'"'"'^^"^' 
 dua, chofe to jump ofl^ from the bridge, called // Ponte Curvo, into the 
 water, where (he was drowned, rather than fall into the hands of fome 
 Imperial foldiers, who clofely purfued her. The Roman Liicretiam he- 
 roic adl is indeed highly to be commended ; yet I doubt not but many 
 other nations afford inftances • of chaflity, which, though buried in 
 oblivion, upon weighing all circumftances, juftly deferve to be preferred 
 to that of Lucretia •\. Applicable to this is Pliny's obfervation, lib. iii. 
 Ep. 15. Alia claricra e[fe, alia majora; i. e.. ' Some adions are more ce- 
 
 * Miffon. Tom I. p. 186, & feq. 
 
 t In the whole behaviour of LucrcUa the love of fame had a great fhare : and OwV alfo, 
 in Fajlor, llb.'W. gives us to underftand, that fhe flabbed herfelf to avoid reproach, rather 
 than from any principle of Chaftity, when he fays, 
 
 Succubuit famts villa -pmlla inctu. 
 
 [Another note, by Mr, Schiitz, to the f;ime purport with this of the author, is here 
 omitted ; as an invidious refleftion of fuch an heroic inllance of chaftity favours of ill- 
 nature,, efpecially fince they both chiefly rely on the teftimony of Ovid, who was a noto- 
 . rious debauchee.] 
 
 ' lebrated.
 
 230 
 
 PAD U A. 
 
 Seiijuii of ( lel^rated, whllft others that are greater are burled in oblivion,' After 
 iianid. ^jj jj^g panegyrics on Lucretia, the following contrail may be drawn 
 between her and the chalte Sufanna : 
 
 Cajla Sufanna placet ; Lucrctia, cede Sufanna, 
 Tu pofl, ilia mori tnalnit antefcelus *. 
 
 * Sufanna I admire, to whom Liicretia mull yield ; the latter chofe 
 
 * to die after flie had contraded the guilt, which the former was refolved 
 ' to prevent by her death.' 
 
 Near the marchionefs dObizzi's monument, over the door which 
 opens into the Officium Sanitatis, is the following infcription cut in 
 marble : 
 
 ^"^'^llwTf "" If^clyfo Alphmjo Arragonum Regi Jliidiorum Fautori, Reip. Veneta fcede- 
 
 Lv/'j arm. rato, Antonio Panormita Poeta legato Juo or ante, ^ Matthceo ViBurio bujus 
 
 Urbis Pratore conjlantijfime intercede?2te, ex Hifloriarutn parentis Titi Livii 
 
 cjfibusy qua hoc tumtdo conduntur, brachium Pat. Civ. in munm concejfere. 
 
 A. C. MCCCCLL 14. Kal. Se. 
 
 ' The citizens of Padua made a prefent of an arm of Titus LiviuSy 
 
 * the father of hiftory, being part of the remains of that great man 
 ' depofited in this tomb, to the illuflrious Alphonfo king of Arragon^ 
 ' encourager of learning, and allie to the republic of Venice., at the 
 
 * earneft requeft: of the celebrated poet Antonio Panormita., their en- 
 
 * voy, and the paffionate folicitation of Mateo Vitiuri, chief magiftrate 
 
 * of this city. Augujl 18, 145 1.' 
 
 *The comparlfon here drawn between \.\\e Apocryphal hero'mt and Lucreiia is hr from being 
 juft ; for the former could not prevent the punifhment (he was going to fufFer after convic- 
 tion upon the falfe evidence of the elders ; whereas the latter had it not in her power to 
 prevent 7<3r^««'s villany, though, perhaps, (he might have concealed the rape, had (he 
 not preferred her honour to her life. To this farcafm on the Roman matron may be op- 
 pofed the following lines : 
 
 ' Fair Bufan did her wif-hede well menteine, 
 
 ' Algates aflaulted fore by letchours tweine : 
 
 ' Now, and I read aright that auncient fong, 
 
 ' Olde were the paramours, the dame full yong. 
 
 ' Had thilke fame tale in other guife been told ; 
 
 ' Had they been yong (pardie) and (he been olde : 
 
 ' That, by St. A7/, had wrought much forer tryal j 
 
 '■ Full marveillous, I wot, were fwilk denyal.' Prior, p. 233. 
 
 ttence
 
 PADUA. 231 
 
 Hence it appears that there are alfo literary reliques, and that they 
 are no lefs eagerly fought for than the religious ; but the misfortune is, 
 that as many objedlions may be raifed againfh the genuinencfs of Lhy's 
 bones, which Pndiia fo much boafts of, as againft many of the reliques 
 fo devoutly worfhipped by the Romijb church ; but feme of the latter 
 are infinitely more profitable, and therefore more valued. 
 
 In the large hall, not far from the pafiage leading to the Potejias pa- 
 lace, is to be feen a ftone fuperfcribed with the following words^: 
 
 Lapis 'viiuperii & cejjionh bonorum. Sione of re- 
 
 proach, 
 
 * The flone of ignominy and bankruptcy/ 
 
 Such as become bankrupt, and are unable to pay their debts, by fitting 
 publicly three times with their bare buttocks upon this ftone, and fwear- 
 ing that it is not in their power to difcharge their debts, are cleared 
 from any further profecution from their creditors. This extraordinary 
 ceremony, however, has been difcontinued for upwards of fifty years. 
 
 The chief magiftrate's apartment, or il Palazzo di PoteJIa, is in the ^'^^'^zzo dl 
 council-houfe, where the bufto's, portraits, and arms of fuch as have ""^ ■*' 
 been invefled with the dignity of Potejia, are to be feen. Formerly, 
 feveral panegyrical infcriptions were placed under the bufto's, (Sc. fome Elogyof/ei'e- 
 of which, compofed by the celebrated ivrr^r/, pleafed me fo, that I ''"^ Poteila's. 
 cannot forbear tranfcribing a few fpecimens of them : 
 
 I. 
 
 ALOrSIO PRIOLO £"oi 
 
 Paternce venerationis titulum promeritOy. 
 ^od Jubmotis peccandi caufis 
 Levioris lapfiis atque eetatis Ucent'tam 
 
 Clementer ceftimarit, 
 
 Et in piidoris 7'iotam fupplicio converfo 
 
 Siiffundere 7naliierit juventittis fanguinem 
 
 ^lam effundere, 
 
 Artiiim Studioji 
 
 Sumjno reg7iandi ariijici 
 
 Effigicin facrariiiit 
 
 AnnoM'.DC.LIV. 
 
 ^■. ' To Aloyji Prioli, an excellent magiftrate, who well deferved the vcne- 
 ' rable and affedionate tide of a father, for he wifely removed the caufes 
 ' of guilt, and was mild in overlooking the foibles and fallies of youth, 
 
 ' by 
 
 O/AhyH
 
 232 - PADUA. 
 
 ' by changing the pwnirtiment of them to fome mark of fliame, being 
 ' defirous that the blood of young perfons Oiould rather tinge their 
 
 * cheeks with ingenuous blufties, than be (hed by ftripes, the ftudents 
 
 * have confecrated this image in the year 1654. 
 
 II. 
 
 o/Angeio ANGELO CORRARIO, Pratcri 
 
 Corrari. ^j Vcneto ccelo delapfiis, populis, qiiojciinque adiit, beneficus ac fahitaris, hh 
 
 etiavi terris ufurd brevi commodatus, manjuetiidine, cekritate & conjUii prce- 
 Jlantid nomifiis augurium implevit, hoc etiam quod in ipfo rerum ingentium 
 molimine evocatm ejl, ut pads ac f elicit at is Jiuntius Romanum Orbem col' 
 bijlraret : Littera ac dijciplina Cylle77ium fdus fibi modo ojlenfum befieficiis 
 prcefens odor ant-, at que crept i defiderimn aiigujid imagine folantur. Anno 
 MDCLVL 
 
 ' To Angela Corrari, chief magiftrate of Padua, who defcending from 
 
 * the Venetian fky, was gracious, and fpread virtue and happinefs where- 
 ' ever he came ; though lent but for a fliort time to this country, fuch 
 
 * was his mildnefs, his diligence, and wifdom, that he well deferved the 
 ' nz-me o( Angela ; and more particularly as he was recalled from this 
 
 * fcene of a(5tion, as a magiftrate, to be fent as a meflenger to difFufe 
 
 * peace and happinefs through the whole Raman empire. Learning and 
 ' the fciences adore this illuftrious ftar (which like the planet Mercury was 
 
 * but juft fliewn them, but by its benign influences is ftill prefent) and 
 ' alleviate their grief for the lofs of it by this auguft image. 1656.' 
 
 Of Antonio III. 
 
 Bernardi. Q^p^ (ifj}fjjQ;^ Dalmatia Miccrens, 
 
 Culti or bis limes, Italia mcenia. 
 
 Si tot a viriiim mole Ottomajiniis incumbit 
 
 Naviifqtie e Thracia turbo circimitojiat 
 
 Certa Salus adejl 
 
 ANT ON IV S BERNARDVS, 
 
 ^i publicos hoft.es tato cequore cecidity 
 
 Irruentem barbariemjijlet, 
 
 Noviifque Leonida 
 
 Chri/Iiani Orbis claujlra tiiebitur. 
 
 Facile hoftem fuperat 
 
 ^i fe ipfum vincens 
 
 De viiiis & cupidi/atibns triwnphai. 
 
 * Mourning
 
 PAD U A. 233 
 
 * Mourning Dalinafia, tliou boundary of the civilized world, and 
 ' bulwark of //"j/)', take courage j lliould the Ottoman with his whole 
 
 * force invade, and Thrace dig^m thunder from every quarter, Antonio 
 ' Bernardi, thy invincible protedor, who flaughtered the enemies of 
 ' the republic in repeated engagements at fea, is prefent to repel the ir- 
 
 * ruptions of the barbarians. This modern Leonidas will defend the 
 ' barrier of the Chriilian world : For He is fure to gain the vidtory over 
 5 an enemy, who conquers himfelf, and triumphs over his paflions and 
 ' vices.' 
 
 IV. O/AIoy- 
 
 Hoc militari afpeSlu cultuqne chilis iriiperii infignibm radiante fpeSian- '"'"^ Mocem- 
 tium oculos rapiebat jiLOTSlVS MOCENICVS, incertum hello an^""'' 
 face clarior, cum a 'Turcicis Tropais recetis in Vrbe /itidiorum altrice Otto- 
 mannicas mamibias Mufis confecraret, fejjifque rebus Jubveniens fovendis in- 
 geniis laiidem fceneraret. yuris ftiidioja juventus fuum cuique decus repen- 
 dcns facros vultus quam publicis hojlibus formidatos, tarn clementice julgore 
 corufcos, ater7itim grati animi monumeniian ftatiiit. 
 
 Anno M.DC.LVni. 
 
 ' With this military afpedt, and adorned with thefe glorious enfigns of 
 ' civil power, Aloyfi Mccenici attracted the eyes of the beholders. It is 
 ' dubious whether he was more illuftrious in peace than in war ; for when 
 
 * he returned loaded with.fpoils, after his vidories over the Turks, into 
 ' this city, the nurfery of the fciences, he confecrated them to the 
 ' Mufes }' and by relieving the diftrefled, and encouraging men of ge- 
 ' nius, acquired frefli glory. The ftudents of the civil law, as an eter- 
 
 * nal monument of their gratitude, have unanimoufly fet up the refem- 
 ' blanceof that facred face, that always ftruck terror into his enemies j 
 
 * but beamed with mildnefs'and benevolence towards his friends." 
 
 V. 
 
 MARCI RUZZINl Pretoris 0/ Marco 
 
 Sereni 'vultus duro mar more jpirant, cujus mitijfimim peBus dementia, ^"zzi"'- 
 ianquam Templum infedit, cui cum una felicitas juerit fecijje felices, poji- 
 quam urbem annond, Gymnafium mmiificiejitid beaisit, ita abfceffit, ut cum 
 7ii{llius iinquam f pern frufiratiis fit, fui defiderium explere non potuerit. Juris 
 Jiudiofi B. M. P. 
 
 ' This breathing marble reprefents the ferene countenance of Marco 
 ' Ruzzitii. In his mild breafl benevolence fat enthroned as in a tem- 
 
 * pie ; his fole happinefs was to make others happy ; and after he had 
 < relieved the city with plenty of provifions, and largely endowed the 
 
 Vol. III. Hh ' college.
 
 234- PAD U A. 
 
 ' college, he by his death has occafioncd a grief, which (though he ne- 
 
 * ver fVuftiated the hopes of any) it is beyond his power to allay.' 
 
 Whythejein- But of thcfc and other infcriptions nothing now is to be feen : for an 
 j.ipthKs 'u.cre order was fent from Venice about five weeks ago to erafe them all with- 
 <^'j''ced. ^^^ exception, and afterwards to plafter them over with mortar. The 
 
 real caufe of fuch a procedure is unknown. Probably the Venetians in- 
 tended, by the abolition of thefe panegyrical infcriptions, to put a ftop 
 to fuch g°rofs flattery; or perhaps jealoufy on the part of the magiftrates 
 of Venice may have occalioned fuch a fevere order ; or, laflly, they 
 might be apprehenfive that the ereding of fuch monuments might in- 
 duce the Potejlas to connive at the great number of irregularities too fre- 
 quent among the diffolute ftudents, in order to procure themfelves the 
 honour of fuch memorials. 
 infcriptioKi in Be this as it will, the precaution ufed by the Venetiajis has not fpared 
 d^'i^a^ttT '•^^ infcriptions in the Palazzo del Ccipitaneo, or the governor's palace, 
 neoerafid. in which Ottdvio Ferrari had given noble fpecimens of his talents for 
 
 this kind of writing ; fo that they are no longer extant. 
 City library. Tile city library is alfo in this palace, of which Gabriel ^emo deferved 
 fo well, that the following infcription is fet up in memory of his care 
 and liberality : 
 
 GABRIELI MMO PrafeBo; quod Bibliothecam veniis at que Imbri- 
 biis per'viam, librisjitu corriiptis, ip/ifque parietibus vitiwn ducentibusy far- 
 tam teSlam exegerit, & abfterjo fqualore in prijlinum cultum rejiitutam in- 
 figni liber alit ate auxerit ; OBavius Ferrarius B. M. P. 
 
 ' Ottavio Ferrari ere&ed th\s memorhl o( Gabriel y^emo, librarian, in 
 
 • acknowledgment of his great liberality in repairing this library, when 
 ' in fo bad a condition, that the books were greatly damaged by the 
 ' weather and rain, and grown mouldy by the dampnefs of the walls.' 
 
 II Palazzo II Palazzo del Capifaneo ftands on the beautiful area called Piazza de' 
 
 tiel Capita- J^olnH ; it is an elegant building, and the fecond flory is adorned 
 
 with a gallery fupported by feventy-three pillars of red marble. The 
 
 tower is alfo a good piece of architecture, and has a clock on it which 
 
 fhews the courfe both of the fun and moon. 
 Ezzelini/a- The ancient palace of the tyrant Ezzelini, or j^cciolini, is remarkable 
 
 for its fpacious vaults, and at prefent ferves both for an arfenal and. 
 
 granary. This old fortrefs, which was begun in the year 1237, and 
 
 finifhed in the year 1242, is ornamented with two towers^ on one of 
 
 which the following infcription is to be feen : 
 
 3 -P^"^'^ 
 
 neo. 
 
 lace.
 
 P A D U A. 
 
 Piis carcerem adfpergite lacrymis, quern majores vejlri cnwre, hk cetatis, 
 
 fexus, conditiofiis., morum, nulla difcrimine hcdnto., quos Acciolijius Tertius 
 
 de Romafto inbumaniter vivos detrujlt, inedid, dolore, dcjperatione non nifi 
 
 mortuos atque conjumptos extraxit, inter tot innocentes quod ina-edibili 
 
 feritate hoc viventibm condidit fepidchrum, 7iocens mortum ejl. Vc/lram 
 hinc agnofcite felicitatem, qui optimum Principem naBi, invidio".^ 7ion pietatt 
 locum reliquiftis. Sebajlianus Galvanus Patavimis, annond & toto bellico 
 apparatu a Scrcj^ijf. Veneta Rep. in hac arce Juce fidei comtniflis, teterrimo 
 carceri hac ex kijioriis infcribenda curavit. Ann. Dom. MDCXIIX. 
 
 ' Shed tears of compafTlon on this prifon, where the blood of your 
 
 ' anceftors was abundantly flied ; for thofe, whom the inhuman Acciolini 
 
 ' thruft down alive, without any diftinflion of age, fex, rank, or con- 
 
 ' dition into this dungeon, periftied with hunger, grief, and defpair. 
 
 ' After fuch numbers of innocent vidlims, who were buried alive in 
 
 ' this dreadful fepulchre, it was the juft fate of the execrable tyrant 
 
 ' himfelf to expire in it at iaft. Hence you ought to be fenfible of your 
 
 * prefent happinefs, in having a prince, who from being objeds of pity 
 
 ' and compaffion, has rendered you fo happy as to be envied for your 
 
 ' profperity. This infcription was fet up over this dreadful dungeon by 
 
 ' Sebajliano Galvani, a native of Padua, commiflary of the provifions 
 
 ' and military flores lodged in this caflle, in the year 1618.' 
 
 On a baftion, near All-Saints-g^tc, is a marble lion, with this infcrip- 
 tion under it : 
 
 Hoc hofpes opus tibi indicat, an JULIANUS Gradonicus, qui Pafavium 
 ornavit atque munivit. And meruerit 7iomen ; at, fi tii legeris acta, Ari/li- 
 dem quoque dices, nam talem egit Prcef. qualis quilibet ejfe deberet. Anno 
 M.D.XFIIL 
 
 * Stranger, this monument informs thee how well Giuliano Gradoniciy 
 ' who embellifhed and fortified Padua, deferved the name of Ancus *. 
 ' But if thou wilt read the account of his noble exploits, thou wouldft 
 ' look upon him as another Arijlides : for when he was Podejla, he 
 ' behaved fo as to deferve univerfal applaufe. 151 8.' 
 
 Over the entrance. of a private gentleman's houfe not far from Ponte 
 de Tadi, is the following infcription fet up by the owner : 
 
 * Alluding to Anais Martius^ fourth king of Rome, who enlarged and embellifhed the 
 city. 
 
 H h 2 Domino 
 
 235
 
 236 p'yi^'^ U J. 
 
 houfe. 
 
 His ivill. 
 
 Infcriftion. Domino cohoneflauda Domtts. 
 
 «»Temafinl'/ Paulus Toiijofimis Advocatus 1639, 
 
 ' The owner's virtue refledts a luftre upon his houfe. Paolo Tomafini, 
 • a pleader, 1639.' 
 
 In the houfe is fliewn the following concife form of a will by the fame 
 gentleman : 
 
 Deo vivite, Seren/Jf. Reip. Venetce obfequiiim prajlate, omnes honor at e, 
 rmlliim aijufcimque jortis Jpernite, pro ncmine Jideijiijfione vos ohjlringite, 
 Jic %nvite, lit pojleri vos vixijj'e intelligant. Paulus T'omafmus J. C. Filiis 
 fuis tejlamento reliquit. 
 
 * Live to God ; be loyal fubjedls to the ferene republic of ^f«?V^ ; 
 ' honour all men ; defpife not the meaneft j be fureties for no man ; fo 
 ' live, that pofterity may know you have not lived in vain. This is 
 ' the legacy which Paolo Tomafini^ a lawyer, left his fons by this his 
 ' laft will and teftament.' 
 
 Near the mill-bridge are to be feen thirty mills within a fmall diftance 
 
 of each other, fet in motion by the fame ftream. 
 Palazzo di The fineft private Edifice in the whole city is the Palaxzo di Soranzo, 
 
 Soranzo. which is adorned with the portraits of a great number of princes. The 
 
 garden belonging to this palace is not yet completed. 
 StatiuofUsr. I" ^^^ court of the Palazzo di Mantua ftands a large colofTus with 
 cules Buphi- this infcription : 
 
 loponus. 
 
 Hercules Biiphilopojius beftiarius, qui trijiitiam depulit omnem, peramplo 
 hocjigno Mantiice curce rejlorefcit. 
 
 BuphilopoJiiis may poffiblly fignify a great lover of labour *, and befli- 
 arii, according to Tertullian, I'opifcus, Prudentius, and particularly Caf- 
 f.odorus [diverf. Ie5i. lib. v. epift. 42,) were thofe who voluntarily offered 
 themfelves to fight with wild beafts in the amphitheatres : but for what 
 end this flatue was erected I can get no information, neither do I re- 
 member that any of the ancient writers apply fuch an epithet or furname 
 to Hercules. 
 
 In the palace of count Francefco Capo di Lifta is a wooden horfe, 
 
 ji large 'VOoden . , \ . n^•^rnn^■l■ 
 
 borje^ fo large, that it cannot Itand m the firit Irory, but by its enormous 
 
 height takes up half the fecond. It feems the family coat of arms is 
 
 * It feems rather, from its etymology, to denote a lover of labouring oxen, from Po-.-c, 
 ^.?ia; and ■noMi, and probably alludes to Hivadcs^s ftealing Geryon's o.xen, and driving them 
 from Spain ntp Grtae. 
 
 a horfe j
 
 PADUA, 237 
 
 a horfe j but what gave rife to the whim of making this huge wooden 
 horfe, no body could inform me. My guide aflured me that it was 
 the original Trojan horfe. 
 
 Formerly the cabinets of Bonaviti^ Sihatico, Zcibarella, Tomaflini, Cahmen of 
 Lazara, &c. at Padua were worth feeing ; but they have been difperfed, ""'"'■'"'"• 
 and nothing now remains of them. However, Morgani has a good 
 coUedion of curiofities. But the moft valuable in this city is that of the 
 celebrated phyfician Antoni Va'ijmeri, who dying on the 28th of 'January, 0/Valifnicrj. 
 1730, in the five-and-twentieth year of his age, left behind him a fon 
 of the fame name, the prefent owner of this curious colledfion. It con- 
 fifts of feveral petrefadions, natural curiofities, Egyptian idols, He/rujcan 
 vafes, and ancient marble burto's, among whAch ont oi yunius Brutus 
 and two of "Jupiter are much admired. Several animals and \nk€i.s, ^^^'/'"'^f "f 
 formerly kept in fpirits of wine, are here preferved without any liquor, ^f-J/^^w^ 
 in glafs bells flopped with wax at the bottom, to fecure them zgz\ni\. fir a hng 
 the air. """• 
 
 Among the pleafure-gardens of Padua, that of d'AndoIa, a noble Ve-7he garden of 
 netian, is one of the belt, being adorned with great numbers of flatues ; ^"^°'3- 
 but the Papafava gardens ex'ceed it for orange-trees, cyprefs, and other cyPapafavrai 
 ever-greens, which are difpofed into fine walks, labyrinths, and beautiful 
 hedges. Of the latter, fome are of box-tree, grown to the height of thii- 
 teen or fourteen feet. 
 
 The name of Papafava is faid to be derived from Giacobino de Carra-The etymol'iy 
 ria, to whom the monks of a convent In Carraria, where he was edu- "-f''*''"'"'"'^ 
 cated, gave that nickname, becaufe he was extremely fond of beans. 
 
 The air of Padua is accounted very healthy. Martin Ichtel, a German-, H-:alib/ul,!tfs 
 father to the perfon who keeps the inn called il Re d" Itigliterra, or the^'''^* '"'"• 
 fign of the king of England, died a few years fince at the age of a hun- 
 dred and fourteen. However, few cities have fo many apothecaries as 
 Padua, in proportion to the number of inhabitants : but it muft be ob- 
 ferved, that mofl: of thefe venders of medicines are alfo confedtioners. 
 Great quantities of vipers afe coUeded here; fome of which are kept alive Plpa-s. 
 for various ufes, and others dried and made into powder, which is fup- 
 pofed to be of great efficacy in medicine. They feed the fowls with Fotvls feii 
 vipers and meal at Naples-, where they are alfo adminiftered to pitientSj'^'-''*^'^"^ 
 as well as the broth made of thefe animals. The bed: way of feeding 
 fowls, is to cram them with a pafle made with viper-powder and barley- 
 meal, and then to give them milk to drink. Of thefe fowls the Neapolitans 
 make ajelly, and give it to confumptive patients, and order them to con- 
 tinue drinking it for fome weeks. This puts me in mind of Sir Kenelm 
 Digby, ?n Engliji) virtuofo, who ufed to feaft his wife, who was a very 
 beautiful lady, with capons fattened with vipers flefli ; but he did not 
 
 long
 
 238 PADUA. 
 
 long enjoy his pampered idol ; for (he died very young. \'ipers are not 
 
 always equally good j for in fome years their fleHi is more efficacious 
 
 Thebeji'vi- than in others. Thofe caught in the neighbourhood of TJow^ are ac- 
 
 /''"'• counted the beft ; and on that account great quantities are fent from 
 
 thence to Venice, to be ufed as an ingredient in the Therlaca Andromachi, 
 
 or Ft-^zV^-treacle j though, at prefent, the Theriaca made at Paris and 
 
 other places, is as good as that of Ve7iice. As all venomous creatures thrive 
 
 beft in a warm climate and dry foil, the vipers bred about Padua mud 
 
 confequently be inferior in virtue and efficacy to thofe of Rome. 
 
 Storms. The territory of Padua is very fubjedt to ftorms, particularly thofe 
 
 which come from the fea, which are extremely violent. 
 Pubikbro- Yox the honour of the Mufes, and the edification of the ftudents in the 
 
 ' ' ' Univerfity, it feems the Domie libere, or Donne del Mondo, as they are 
 
 called, are publicly tolerated at Padua. Thefe ladies have their re- 
 fpedive dwellings appointed them, where they live together fix or eight 
 in a clafs, and offer themfelves to the fervice of the Public. That fo 
 commendable an inftitution may not be liable to any objedion, it is the 
 peculiar office of feveral phyficians frequently and ftriftly to examine 
 thefe Donne, that no bad confequences may happen to thofe who con- 
 verfe with thefe nymphs. Of thefe public temples of /^fw^^, there are 
 two in the city of Padua ; and what feems fomething out of charadler, 
 one joins to the Eremiticalfnther's convent, and the other to a nunnery 
 of St. Blaze. 
 Jews place. The Jews have alfo their particular quarter alloted to them at Padua, 
 out of which they are not permitted to ftir. On the three gates leading 
 thither are fo many different infcriptions : that on the fouth-gate is as 
 follows : 
 
 JnfcriptioH -T . U. 
 
 ever agate jy^ populo c^kjlis Reg?ii haredt ufiis cum exharede ejfet fraudi, "Judczi 
 qJarte>\^^ uniwi in locum hie redaSli ajjiduo Marci Cornelii leclijimi Viri, Epifcopi, Do- 
 mus Dei zelo atque jludio pene univerjorum SattBiJJimo, Domijia tfrbis Senatu 
 auBore, faSlo decreto civium, Virorum atnpUJJitnorum Franjcifci Bernardi 
 Prcetoris, Marci ^irini ProefeBi henigno aufpicio, eximid Danielis Cam- 
 pefii, Sertorii Urfati Eq. Nicolai Campo San. Petri J. C. Curatorum opera. 
 Anno Chrifti M.DC.III. J. F. M. 
 
 • Left any detriment might accrue to the heirs of the kingdom of 
 
 * heaven from a commerce with thofe who are difmherited, the Jews 
 ' were confined to this quarter by the indefatigable zeal of the moft ex- 
 ' cellent bifliop, Marco Cornelio, for the houfe of God, and the unani- 
 
 * mous decree of the fenate, <3c. in the year 1603.' 
 
 Padua, May, 1730. LETTER
 
 The Country about PADUA. 239 
 
 LETTER LXXII. 
 
 Defcription of the country about Abano^ Catajo, Bataglia, 
 
 Arqua^ &c. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 ^ 
 
 NO traveller of tafte will think it loft time to beftow a day on txv The •village 
 excurfion into the country that lies to the fouth of Padua. The ^''*"°- 
 village Abano, in Latin, Apo?iutn, lies about (our Italian miles from Padua, 
 and is much frequented in fummer on account of the warm baths which 
 are about half a mile from it. 
 
 A houfe belonging to fignior Cornelio, or Cornaro, in this village, is Andati tombs. 
 adorned with fome good pidures, and two ancient monuments, one of 
 which reprefents a woman fitting, with this infcription : 
 
 rnOMNHMA AIAIA2 $IAH Greek/»/w>.- 
 
 M A T I O T. '""'■ 
 
 * The monument of JElia, the wife or daughter of Philematios.* 
 
 On the other is the reprefentations of a man and a boy, with thefe 
 words under them : 
 
 TAATKOS TAATKOT Anothsr. 
 
 XPH2TEXAIPE. 
 
 * My beloved Glaucus, the fon of Gluacus, farewel ! ' 
 
 Over an old pifture of the poet Petrarch are thefe words in Italian : 
 
 Vecchio penfo, ardo, piango, e chi mi sfage Infcription 
 
 Seinpre meinanzi per mia dolcc pena. twrch'j */■/<■- 
 
 ' ' Old as I am, I ftill for Laura burn, 
 
 * And with forKi. tears bedew her facred urn ; 
 ' Her pleafing form ftill prefent to my view, 
 ' At once my former joys, and grief renew/ 
 
 Oppofite to Petrarch hangs Lauras pidlure, with the following in- 
 fcription in the fame language : 
 
 Miriam 
 
 ture.
 
 240 
 
 TJye- Country, aboiu. P /I D U A. 
 
 Over that of 
 Laura. 
 
 Ancient monu- 
 ment of Cain 
 AtU. 
 
 The ivarm 
 baths of A- 
 bano. 
 
 Miriam coftci quand'ella pm'la e rie 
 Che fol fe JleJJ'a e null' altra fomiglia. 
 
 " The beauteous Laura towers above her fex ;" 
 ' And while we gaze, the willing foul beguiles 
 * With tuneful accents, or bewitching fmiles.' 
 
 An admirable ancient monument, which now ftands on a pillar near 
 the college at Padua was found at Abano. The infcription is as follows : 
 
 C. ATI A C. F. 
 
 PRIMA SIBI 
 
 ET. Q^SICINIO. M. F. 
 
 VIRO SVO 
 
 V. F. 
 IN FRONTE 
 
 P. XX. 
 
 H. L. ET. M. 
 
 H. N. S. 
 
 DIS PENATIBVS. 
 
 i. e. Caja Ada, Caji Filia, Prima fibi, & ^litito Sicinio Marcl Filia 
 Viro fuo vivens fecit. In froitte pedes XX. Hunc locum & motiumentum 
 Hares nonfequitur. Diis Penatibus. Vid. Vrjati Mon. Patav.fol. 181. 
 
 The letters H. L. ET. M. H. N. S. may be read. Hie locus & 
 monumenfum haredem non fequuntur j and fignify, That no other perfon 
 was to be buried in that place. 
 
 If Pliny by the Pontes Patavini means the baths of Abano, there is 
 not one of them at prefent that does not emit a fmell, which is quite 
 contrary to what he obferves of the Pontes Patavini *. In thefe baths are 
 three forts of water, of very different qualities ; fome of the fprings are 
 
 * Plinius Hi/i Nat. lib. xxxi. c, 6. Nee decolor fpeciei tens argentive (ut multi exiflimavere) 
 medkanunum argumentum eft, quando nihil eoriim in Patavinis foiitibus, ne odoris quidem differentia 
 aliqua deprehenditur. ' Nor does the difcolouring of brafs or filver prove, as many have 
 * thought, any medicinal virtues to be in them ; no fuch virtues being found in the waters of 
 ' Padua, nor any difference in fmell.' But thofe of Abano are not the only baths in the 
 territory of Padua. Suetonius, in his Life of Tiberius, mentions the Pons Jponus ; and Mar~ 
 tial wrote an epigram in its praife ; where, among other encomiums, he fays of it : 
 
 Pons Anterior ea vitam qui porrigis urbi, 
 
 '■ O fountain, who beftowed life and health on Jntenor'a city.' 
 
 impregnated
 
 The Country about PADUA. 241 
 
 impregnated with fulphur, and have particular hathing-rooms, where, 
 by means of fleps, one may defcend to any depth in the water. Others 
 are boiling hot, and the water f'prings up in fuch quantities as to drive a 
 mill at the diftance only of about twenty paces from the fource. The 
 wooden pipes through which the v/ater is conve^/ed to thefe baths are 
 often incrufled with a white lapideous fubftance, not eafily fcparated 
 from the wood ; and the exacfl impreflions of the veins and knots of the 
 wood on this concretion make it perfectly refemble petreficd wood. 
 
 A Sudatorium has alfo been built here, the effeft of which is caufed Sudatorum. 
 by the fteam of the water. Some of the fprings, which are tepid, are Minerals in 
 faid to be impregnated with lead: and others, from their reddifli fedi- the-wattr. 
 ment, and other figns, appear to be ferrugineous. In thofe where fulphur 
 predominates, the pipes contrad a cruft of whitifli fait. Here is alfo a SUmebath. 
 bagrio di fango, or a muddy bath, where very obftinate arthritick diforders 
 have been cured by means of the warm flime. 
 
 Why Martini, in lib. vi. Ep. 42. ftiles thefe baths Pontes Aponi rudes 
 puellisy I own I cannot conceive. 
 
 The baths of Abano belong to two perfons of the Morofmi family, 
 and are at prefent let for a hundred Ducati dArgento, or Silver Ducats, 
 a year. A very accurate account of their virtues and properties was pub- 
 lifhed at Padua by Gratiafii, in the year 1701. It was entitled Ther- 
 marutn Patavinarum exameriy where he alfo treats of other baths in the 
 neighbourhood of Padua. 
 
 In fome places betwixt this and Catajo, a fmoke, or warm exhalation 
 is feen to arife from the water and foil ; fo that if it was requifite, the 
 number of hot baths might be eafily increafed. 
 
 On the left-hand of this road (lands a fine ^:([zct c^ltd Ingamio, Palace ^f in. 
 i. e. Deceit. g"""°- 
 
 Catajo lies five Italian miles from Abano. The former belongs to a Catajo, 
 gentleman of the family of Obiz-zi, the moft remarkable adlions of 
 which are painted in frefco in this palace by the celebrated Paolo Vcro- 
 neje, and explained by proper infcriptions. On the entrance of this pa- 
 lace are the following ingenious lines, compofed by Paul 'Julian Vngar. 
 
 'Jupiter alme domian tutare, juperna Gigantes ingenhm 
 
 Atria Ji capiant, hie iuus orbis erit. wjcnftim 
 
 Heic quoque fiderei funt piSla palatia ctvli, entrance of 
 
 Adde notis animas, Numinis injlar erunt, lU palace. 
 
 ' Great Jove protedl this houfe. Should the giants once more ftorm 
 
 * thy imperial dwelling, this may be thy refidence. Here alfo are 
 
 * painted the palaces of the flarr'y heaven. Give life to the figures, and 
 
 * they will become as fubordinate deities to thee.' 
 
 Vol. III. I i Near
 
 242 l^he Cctmtry about PA D U A. 
 
 Near a finall flair-cafe in the palace is the portrait af an old woman, 
 with thcfe lines over it : 
 
 Vcrfii ci'er the Gabriua giace qui, Vecchia Jafci'va, 
 
 figure of an §>ual ddl vogo Zahfin portatc /;? groppa -, 
 
 dd^:oman. chc k'nche forda, JhalundtM, e Zoppa, 
 
 Si trajluUo in amor, fin che Jit 'vi'Da. 
 
 ' Here lies the lafcivious Gabrina, &c. who, though Hie was deaf, 
 * old, lame, and blind, was lliil amorous while flie had any life in 
 « her.' 
 
 PcHrait of the The Upper Rory is finely furniflied with paintings, among which 
 marchionefs d" hangs the portrait of the marchionefs d' Obizzi, in honour of whom a 
 "^^'" ftatue was ereded in the council-houfe at Padua for her chaftity, as 
 mentioned above. By her pidure (and painters are feldom guilty of 
 doing injuftice to the ladies) il:ie appears to be no extraordinary Beauty. 
 This palace yields a beautiful profpedl, and has charming gardens, cool 
 grotto's, a park, a theatre, a pavillion for balls, and every thing that 
 conduces to pleafure and magnificence. 
 Monfelice. The village of Mo?ifelice (in Latin, Mo?2S fiUcis) lies not far from 
 
 hence ; and within an Italian mile from Catajo lies the little town of 
 Bataglia, fo called from the rapid conflux of two fmall rivers in that 
 place. 
 Arqua. About three miles (i-omBataglia Vies Arqua, QxArquato, famous for having 
 
 Aciount ofYz- been the refidence and burial-place oi FrancefcoPetrarcha. This celebrated 
 tiarch. poet was born on the 20th day of y^/)', in the year 1304, zi Arezzo, in 
 
 the dutchy of Fk^-ence ; and in his youth was forced to make his efcape 
 into the couniy oi Avigncn in France, where he lived, chiefly at Vaucluje 
 (fo called qiiafi Fa/lis claufa) near the fource of the river Sorgue ; a place 
 Nil amour, he often mentions in his poems with great praife and afi^edtion. In the 
 twenty-third year of his age, he happened one day to meet a young 
 lady of about thirteen years of age without the gates of Avignon, with 
 -whofe beauty he was immediately ftruck j and became fo paflionately 
 enamoured of her, that he not only entertained the tendered love for her 
 during the courfe of one-and-twenty years, that is, as long as ftie 
 lived ; but perfevered in his extraordinary paflion ten years after her 
 death, and even to the end of his days *. It does not appear that they 
 
 were 
 
 * This appears from Petrarch's own words in one of his fonnets : 
 
 Tenerm amor anni veHt' uno ardendo 
 
 Lieto nelfuoco, e tiel duel pien d't fpcme ; 
 
 Poi che madonr.a, e il mio corfeco infgne 
 
 Saltroal (leU died alir'ianmpiar-gendo. Sonetto 313. 
 
 For
 
 The Country about PADUA. 243 
 
 were ever married * ; nor is it known what could prevent thefe lovers 
 from entering into the conjugal ftate. It is true, Petrarch once had 
 fome ecclefiallical preferment ; but this was towards the latter part of 
 his life : fo that in the firft years of his paflion for Laura, he was under 
 noreflraint as to marriage on that account. Poflibly the want of an eafy 
 fortune might check any thoughts of entering into a condition, which is 
 generally attended with confiderable charges ; for it was but few years 
 before his death that he went to Florence^ to take polTeffion of the inhe- 
 ritance that his father had left him. The real name of Petrarch's 
 miftrefs was Lauretta, which in his poems he always has abbreviated 
 into Laura. Her father was Henry Chahod, lord of Cabrieres. Petrarch 
 fell paflionately in love with Laura the moment he firft faw her, which 
 was on the fixth day of April, 1327, about one of the clock in the after- 
 noon, as he tells us in his, 177th Sonnet, Part I. Ifliould not have been 
 fo exadl in mentioning this circumftance, had not Petrarch, in the firft 
 chapter of the Triumph of Love ; and in the aQift Sonnet, Part II. ob- 
 ferved, that his beloved Laura expired on the very fame day of the 
 year 1348, and in the fame hour. Upon her death France became quite 
 infupportable to him ; and after roving for fome time from place to place, 
 he at length fixed upon Arquato as his place of refidence, where he died 
 in the feventy -fourth year of his age. His monument is to be feen near 
 the church, with the following fliort infcription : 
 
 Frigida Francijci lapis hie tegit ojfa Petrarchce 
 SuJ'cipe, Virgo Parefis, animam ; Sate virgine parcc, 
 Feffaquejam terris cceli requiefcat in arce. 
 
 Moritur, Anno Dom. J 374. 18. 'Juliii 
 
 * Under this ftone lie the poor cold remains of Francefco Petrarcha. 
 
 • Holy virgin, receive his foul ; and Thou who waft born of a virgin 
 
 * pardon his fins, and grant that he may refl in heaven after his weary 
 ' pilgrimage on earth.' 
 
 ' For twice ten years, and more, my bofom glow'd 
 ' With love's foft fires, and felt its pleafing pangs. 
 ' But fince my Laura took her fli2;ht to heav'n, 
 • And thither carried every heart-felt joy, 
 ' Ten years I've mourn'd her early fate, and oft 
 ' Bedew'd her urn with unavailing tears.' 
 
 * In the Colloquio tertii dm, Petrarch writes thus : In amore ?neo nil unqiiivn twpe, nil ohfcKr.unty 
 ml denique prater magniitidinem ctdpabile. Adde modum, nihil pulchrius excogitari queat. ' My 
 ' love was ever free from the leafl: turpitude or obfcenity, and was culpable only in its excefs. 
 ' Had the ardour of my paflion been lefs violent, nothing could be imagined more com- 
 ' mendable and praife-worthy.' 
 
 I i 2 Underneath
 
 244 ^'^ Country aboutt^^^K^jd D U A. 
 
 Underneath are thefe words : . ■- r • 
 
 Viro wfigni Franc. Pctrarcha Laureato Francifcohis de Brofano, Medio- 
 lajunfis-i gener tndividud converjatione., amove., propinquitate, fuccejjione, me- 
 moriii. 
 
 ' To the memory of that celebrated poet Francefco Tatrarcha ; Fran- 
 ' cejcclo de Brofano, of Milan, his fbn-in-law, who was infeparably united 
 ' to him by converfation, affinity, affedlion, (^c. infcribes thefe lines. 
 
 And farther underneath : 
 
 yo, Bapt. Rota Patav. -ainore, benevokntid, obfervantidque devinBiJf. 
 tarjti celebr. Vat is virtutum admirator ad pojieros. H. M. B. M. P. C. 
 
 ' Giovanni Bafti/ia Rota eredled this monument as a mark of his 
 
 * fincere affedion to, and admiration of the excellent qualities of fo great 
 
 * a poet, in order to perpetuate the memory of their friendfliip to po- 
 ' flerity.' 
 
 Under a brafs bufto of Petrarch, placed over this monument, is the 
 following infcription : 
 
 Fr. Petrarcka Patdus Valdezucus Poematum ejus admirator, cedium 
 agriqiie poffejfor, banc effigiem pof. An. 1547. Idibus Sept. Manfredino 
 Comite Vicar io. 
 
 * This bufto of Petrarch was fet up by Paolo Valdefuci, an admirer 
 
 * of his poems, and the polTeflbr of his houfe and eftate, Sept. it,, 1547-' 
 
 On the north fide of the church is to be feen the following infcription 
 on marble : 
 
 Danti Aligerio, Francifco Pretrarchc?, G? "Joanni Bocacio, Viris ingenio 
 
 eloquentidque clarijjimis, Italicce linguce parejitihus ; JJt quorutn corpora 
 
 ?nors & fortuna Jejimxerat , nomina jaltein Jimid collegia permanerent, 'Joan. 
 
 Brevius Canon. Cenetenfis, hnjus Bajilicce ReSior in Jui erga eos amoris ob~ 
 
 Jervantiaque tejiimonium pojuit MDXXIIII. 
 
 • To Dante Aligieri, Francefco Petrarcha, and Giovanni Boccacio, per- 
 
 * fons celebrated for their wit and eloquence, the parents of the Italian 
 
 * language ; that thofe, whofe bodies death and other accidents have fe- 
 
 3 ' parated
 
 ^/he Coimtry about P AD U A. 245 
 
 ' paratedj might at leafl: have their names perpetuated together on this 
 
 • marble, Giovanni Brevi, canon of Ccneda, and rector of tliis church, 
 
 • as a teftimony of his regard and afFedion for thofe illuflrious perfons, 
 
 • eredled this monument in the year 1524/ 
 
 Over a fountain at Arquato this diftich is to be feen : 
 
 Fonti Nuineft ine/l^ hofpes "jenerare liqiiorem^ in/cription on 
 
 Unde bibcm cecinit digna Fetrarcha Deis. ajountam. 
 
 * Revere this facred fpring, whofe limpid ftream 
 
 * Infpired FetrarcUs heav'n-born mufe, to fing 
 
 * Such lays as e'en the gods might deign to hear.' 
 
 The houfe in which Fetrarch lived flands on a hill, at fome diftance O'''^^'- "f'^"- 
 from Arquato; and over the door leading to the garden and vineyard '^'^'^loaiihti' 
 the following diftich, put up by order of the perfon who fucceeded Fe- houfe. 
 trarch, as proprietor of the houfe i 
 
 Impiaii hinc Cercrem fumas impune Lyceum 
 Intadias habeat dum mea lauriis opes.. 
 
 ' Traveller, thou mayft fafely regale thyfelf with the gifts of Ceres 
 ' and Bacchus -, but let not thy rafli hand touch my laurels.' 
 
 The memory of the poet is preferved in feveral of the apartments 
 by allegorical paintings in frefco : copper-plates of thefe, and of fome 
 pieces of his furniture that ftill remain in this houfe, are to be feen in 
 Tomajini's Fetrarcha redivivus. Fi^nori has bellowed the following 
 epigram on the poet's chair : 
 
 Hofpes ades, teniicmque procax ne defpice Sellam Epigram on A;.- 
 
 'Terp/ichore qua vix aurea majus habet. 
 O quo ties Fa turn hacjedit clartjjimus olini 
 
 Dum canit ad Tbufca?n carmina cult a lyram. 
 Cum rigidce ad numeros tnotare cacwnina quercus 
 
 ConjpeSlce, & rahiem p07icre jujjafcra eji. 
 Fhcebe Fafer, quid Jella?n axi Juperaddere cejfas f 
 
 Digfu'or baud currus injlruet uHa tuos. 
 
 * Stranger, 
 
 aiatr.
 
 246' "The Country aUut PADUA. 
 
 ' Stranger, approach, behold this homely chair, 
 
 ' Which e'en Terpfichore herfelf might choofe, 
 
 ' Where feated oft the bard divine attun'd 
 
 ' His heav'nly numbers to the Titj'can lyre ; 
 
 ' While knotted oaks were feen to wave their head?, 
 
 ' As beating time to his harmonious lays, 
 
 * And admiration tam'd the favage hearts. 
 
 ' Apollo, to thy axis join this feat, 
 
 ' For none will better fuit thy radiant car." 
 
 Petrarch's table is alfo celebrated by 'Johannes Rhodiin, a Dane : 
 
 liii table. Limpida fervam menfis cryjlalla Petr arches 
 
 Simplicitas avi, qui Juit, inde patet. 
 
 * This table held PetrarcUs cryftal vafes, and remains here as a me- 
 
 * nument of the fimplicity of that age.' 
 
 Petrarch'i 7?«. That P^/r<7;T^ had a daughter is evident from the infcription on his 
 {uraldaiigh. monumcnt, Francefcolo de Broffano of Milan being there ftiled Gener^ i. e. 
 his daughter's hufband. It alfo appears by the infcription on the tomb 
 eredled to her memory by her hufband in St. Francis'^ church at Tj'evifo, 
 that her name was Francefca. 
 
 Francljcce parientt perem^ce Francifci Petrarcha Laureati Filia, Fran- 
 nifcolus de Brofano Mediolanenfs maritus P. Obiit anno M.CCC.LXXXW. 
 
 * To Francefca the daughter of Francefco Petrarcha, the celebrated 
 
 * poet, who died in childbed, this monument was eredted by her 
 ' hufband Francefcolo de BroJJdtto oi Milan. She died in the year 1384.' 
 
 This daughter he is fuppofed to have had in his younger years at 
 Milan. And Tomafmi, in his Petrarcha redivivuSy fays, that fhe was, by 
 the mother's fide, of the family of the Becrarii. As it is unqueftionable 
 that this daughter of Petrarch was the fruit of ftolen embraces, I cannot 
 but wonder at Boccacio's confidence, when he fays of Petrarch, Ajuven- 
 tute fud CKlibem 'uit^m ducens adeo inepte Venerii Jpurcitias horret, ut nof~ 
 centibm ilium J'anBiffimum fit exemplar honejli ; ' That he led a fingle life 
 
 * from his youth, and was fo averfe to lufl and forbidden pleafures, that 
 
 * all who knew him looked upon him as a fliining example of chaflity.* 
 
 His 
 
 ier
 
 ^he CoufUry alout PADUA. 247 
 
 His (laughter Tranccj'ca left behind her n fon, who died at Puvia, where 
 formerly his grandfather Petrarch refided for fonie time '^. 
 
 Though I am not for making a fiint of Frnnccfco Pelrarcha ; yet he ividcd.iefs of 
 ought to be diftinguifhed from his brother Gerardino, who is charged ^'^^^^'^''^'^ 
 •with having, in c«infideration of a fum of money, given up his own 
 flfler to the brutal luft of pope BenediSl XII. 
 
 As for the beautiful Laura, flie died in Petrarch's abfence, while he L- "'''■'"' ^''""^^ 
 was on a vilit to the Scaligeri family at Verona. She lies in the Frafi-"'"'''''"'^^' 
 cifcan + church at Avignon, with the following epitaph : 
 
 D. 0. M. 
 
 Et memorice reterna D. JLaura cum pudicitid turn forma faeinince hicom- 
 parabilis, qiice it a i^ixit, ut ejus memoria nuUo fecido extingiu pojjit. 
 
 Re Ji it Iter lint veteriun monument or ujn peregrini indagatores D. Chrijlopho- 
 rus de Allegre Eques Lufitanus, & £). Antonius de Prat. Praetor Parifienfis, 
 & Gabriel Simeojiiiis Florenti}7US, iJJox-ia? p^«f ii-. W. Idus April. 1558. 
 Siola manet virtus, catera mortis erunt. 
 
 ' Sacred to God the greatefl: and beflr of Beings, 
 
 * And the eternal memory of Laura, a lady no lefs diftinguifhed for 
 * her chaftity than her beauty ; who lived in fuch a manner, that her 
 ' memory will never die, but is configned to immortality. 
 
 * Chrtjiopher de Allegre, a knight oi Portugal ; Antony de Prat, chief 
 ' magiftrate of P<7r/; ; znA Gabriel Si7neoni oi Florence, fearching for an- 
 ' cient monuments, out of refped to Lauras memory, repaired this 
 ' tomb, April 10, 1558. 
 
 ' Virtue alone defies the ftroke of death.' 
 
 * This infant was honoured with the following elegant ejntaph, which is inferted here 
 lor the fake of the learned reader : 
 
 Vix mundl novu's bofpes eram, vitc^que vokmtis 
 
 Atligeram tencro limhia dura pcde : 
 Francifau genitor, genitrix Frandfca, fecutus 
 
 Hos de fonte facro nomen idem tenui. 
 Infam formopis, fokimen duke parent um 
 
 Hie doler, hoc uno fors mea Iteta minus. 
 Cietera fum felix, & verce gaudia vitte 
 
 Naitus & atema, tam cifo, tarn facile. 
 Sol bis, Luna quatcr fexum pei-agraverai orhenty 
 
 Obvia mors, fallor, obvia vita fiat. 
 Me Venetmn tern's dedit Uibs, rapuitque Papia j 
 
 Ncc queror, hie ccelo reftituendus eram. 
 
 Vid. Jae. Salotnoriii Infcriptioncs agri Patavini, p. 580. 
 ■f Or rather the Cordeliers cnurch, which is one of tlie Francifcan orders. 
 
 The
 
 248 Toe CoimWy about PAD U A, 
 
 This tomb remained for many years in obfcurity, till it was at lafl: dif- 
 covered by Mauritius Scava. 
 
 Fr(J}icis I. king o^ France, pafling through Avignon in his way ioMar- 
 fcilles, ordered haura\ grave to be opened, and the coffin to be taken 
 • up; but nothing remained of that celebrated beauty but duft and the 
 
 bones. On the breaft of the fkeleton lay a fmall leaden box, in which 
 were fome Italian verfes *, and a medal of lead, on one fide of which 
 was the image of a female, and on the reverfe thefe letters, M. L. M.'I. 
 which ftand for Madonna Laura mortajace ; i. e. ' My beloved Laura 
 * lies dead.' 
 
 Upon this, Francis I. erefted a fplendid monument to Laura's memory, 
 with the following epitaph compofed by himfelf : 
 
 En petit lieu compris vous pouvez voir, 
 
 Ce, qui comprend heaucoup par renommee > * 
 
 Flume, labeur, la langue Cif le devoir 
 
 Furent vaiticus par I'aymant de I'aymee. 
 gentiW Ame, etatit taut ejlimee, 
 
 ^i te pourra louer, quenfe taifant ? 
 
 Car la parole eji tousjours reprimee, 
 
 ^and le fujet furmonte le difant. 
 
 * Thefe verfes were written on parchment by Petrarch's own hand, and are as 
 follows : 
 
 ^u'l rtpofan qun cajle e felici ojja 
 
 Dl queW alma gentile, e fola in terra, 
 
 Afpro e dur fajjo hor ben teco hai Jotttrra, 
 
 E'l vera honor, la fama, e heha fcojja. 
 Morte ha del verde Laiiro fuelta e mojja 
 
 Frefca radice, e il premio di mia guerra 
 
 Di quattro lujiri e piu i'ancor non erra 
 
 Mio penjier trijh, e'l chuide in poia fojpi. 
 Felice pianta in borgo d' Avignone, 
 
 Nacque e tnori : e qui con ella giace 
 
 La penna, e'l Jiil, Vinchioftro i^ la ragione 
 O delicati rnembri, viva face, 
 
 Ch'ancor mi ciioggi e Jlruggi, in ginocchione 
 
 Ciafcun preghi il Signor t'accetti in pace. 
 Scxo. 
 Mortal hellezsM indamo fi fufpira, 
 Ualma heata in del vivra in eterno. 
 Pianga el puie e il futv.r fecul prrva 
 D'una tal luce : isf io de gli occhi e il tempo. 
 
 ' Within
 
 7hc Country aSoui PADUA. 249. 
 
 * Within this narrow tomb confin'd you fee 
 
 ' Her, whofe fair fame the world did ovcr-fpread ; 
 
 * Her lover's voice, his pen, his mufc confpir'd 
 
 ' To praife her living, and lament her dead. 
 ' O gentle fliade ! who can record thy worth, 
 
 ' Since words are wanting for fo high a theme ? 
 
 ' The mufe in lllence droops her doubtful wing ; 
 
 ' There needs no words to eternize thy name -f-.' 
 
 In returning from Arqiiato to Padua, we paffed through a very plea- Country alout 
 fant country, interfperfed with many beautiful feats ofperfons of diftinc- ^'■q"»to. 
 tion. The nobility of the diftrift oi Padua had formerly the criminal ju- ii''ty]'fl]heir'' 
 rifdicflion, as it is called, over their vaffals. But the Caftellani oi Sahaz- criminal jwif. 
 zano having ordered a woman's eyes to be put out for a theft (he had '^"''"'"" 
 committed, the republic of Padua, under pretence that fuch a power 
 was liable to enormous abufes, laid hold of that opportunity to take the 
 entire adminiftration of juftice into their own hands. This happened in 
 the year 1 120 ; and the lofs of this privilege was confirmed by an tdi\Oi AJminijlrathn 
 in 1205, under penalty of death to fuch delinquents as fliould offer to'fj"-^'"' 
 
 t Giulio Camilla, after the example of the French monarchj compofed the following 
 Latin epitaph for Laura : 
 
 Laura ego, qua fueram Thufci olim vita Po'ette: 
 
 Laura ego, quam in vita Thufcus alebat amor : 
 Heic fine honor e diu jacui non cognita, quatnvis 
 
 Cognita carminibus cidte Petrarcha iuis. . 
 Nullm purpweis fpargebat Jlorihus urnam, 
 
 Nullus odor at is feria dabat calathis. 
 Nunc quoque Francifci, fed verfu i^ munere Regis 
 
 Notefco, officiis confpicienda pus. 
 
 Luigi Jlainanni likewife celebrated Laura in the following Italian veifes : 
 
 ^d giace il tronco di quel facro Lauro 
 Che del Tofco iniglior fii dal oggetto, 
 Ch^ ovunque fcalda il Sol n'ando todore: 
 Hor dal Gallico Re del del thefauro 
 (Sendo in poco terren vile e yiegletto) 
 Et di marmi, e di Jlil receve honore, 
 E fempre i rami hauvra fioriti e frefchi 
 Sotto I'ombra immortal de duo Francefcbi, 
 
 The following Latin diftich was alfo compofed on Petrarch and Lama by Golnitz, a 
 Dane. 
 
 Carmine laurum habui, LA VR ^EJiudiofus amator : 
 Mors rapuit LA VRAM, carmina non potiiit. 
 
 Vid. Golnitz Ulyf. Belg. Gall. p. 484. 
 
 Vol. III. K k re-
 
 250 F E N I C E, 
 
 re-affume it. After this the Paduans appointed Podeftds in feveral places 
 bv whom to this day juftice is, or ought to be, adminiftred ; it being 
 the common boaft of the VejietianSy that, in two momentous points, their 
 fubjefts are happier than the reft of the world, viz. that they always 
 find Pane in piazza ; i. c. ' Bread in the market ;' and Giiijlitia in pa- 
 lazzoy ' Juftice in the courts.' But I would not advife any foreigner, 
 if he can poffibly avoid it, to put the fecond article to the trial. 
 
 7 am, iic. 
 
 LETTER LXXIII. 
 
 Obfervations on the City of Ve7tice ; with an Account of the 
 Operas, Carnaval, and other Diverfions in that City. 
 
 SIR, > 
 
 TH E diftance from Padua to Venice is five and twenty Italian 
 miles, and the paffage by water is generally performed in eight 
 
 nice. hours. The barges that ply between thefe two cities are conveniently 
 
 fitted up and adorned with windows, painting, and fculpture. Such a 
 barge, which is called brucella, or burchiello, may be hired either for a 
 fingle perfon or a whole company for about a guinea. We went as far 
 as the Lagune or fliallows, on a canal and the river Bre?2ta *, which by 
 means of four locks or fluices is made fo commodious for the boats, that 
 they may be drawn along by horfes like the T'reckjclmits in Holland. 
 The pafifage is very pleafant on account of the profpedis that every where 
 ftrike the eye. About two Italian miles from Padua, on the left hand, 
 
 Giovanellw ftands a fine houfe, with delightful gardens, belonging to a gentle- 
 
 gardens. j^^j^ called GiovanelH. An avenue of cyprefs-trees, ever-green hedges, 
 fummer-houles, orangeries, and a great number of curious ftatues, are 
 no fmall ornament to thefe gardens. Three miles further brought us 
 
 PifaniV W/a. to dgmoT Pifani's villa and gardens, which, excepting the Borromcan 
 iflands, is the fineft I remember to have feen in Italy. I do not here in- 
 
 * The Brenla feems to be the Meduacus major of the ancients ; and probably the name 
 of its mouth or harbour, which at prefent is called Porto di Malamocco, is derived from a 
 vitiated pronunciation of Meduacus. 
 
 5 elude
 
 VENICE, 251 
 
 elude the fupeib palaces and other edifices in the gardens at Rome, but 
 fpeak only of the laying out and beautiful difpolition of the gardens. This 
 villa of fignior Pijani probably exceeded many others as to the mag- 
 nificence of its buildings, at the time they were erefted. However, at 
 prefent, a perfon muft overlook the houfe, and be contented with fine 
 profpe<fls, wildernefles, theatres, beautiful hedges, rows of orange and 
 lemon trees, alcoves, and curious ftatues. The improvements made in 
 this garden have already taken up twenty years, during which time in- 
 credible fums have been expended on it. 
 
 Five miles farther towards Venice lies fignior Veneri's gardens, which Veneris g.w^ 
 would be much admired by a perfon who had not before (etn Pi/am % '*'''"• 
 villa. 
 
 Five Italian miles on this fide of Venice are the Lagwie or fliallows, Lagunc. 
 where there is a continual flux and reflux of the fea ; but at ebb the 
 bottom may almofl: every where be touched with poles. Thefe fhallows 
 are in every part nearly of an equal depth, as appears by the fmoothnefs 
 of the water. The velfels that row on the Lagime muft be carefully 
 ranged in proper order. The large barques are here faftened by a rope 
 to a finall boat which towes them along ; and the barque is at the fame 
 time fhoved on with long poles. Large flakes are driven into the ground 
 to fhow the entrance between the fliallows. On the fouth fide of Ve- 
 nice the fea is of a greater depth, particularly in certain places : But 
 large fliips or veflels of burden cannot come up to the city on any fide, 
 which is no fmall fecurity to it from invafions . On the fide towards 
 the terra Jirma, all imaginable care is taken to prevent the fliallow parts 
 from being quite deferted by the fea, and becoming dry land, left by 
 that means the city fliould be deprived of its advantageous fituation, ac- 
 cording to the prophecy of Luca Gaurici, where, among other things, 
 he fays, 
 
 jE pelago emergens tellm fcecunda colonis GauriciV*«; 
 
 Prcebebit mijeris aliment a e frugibus altii, fhecy cancen- 
 
 Nec naiita^ pifi^^ capient in litorejicco. '"^ '!" "'^ °-f 
 
 Sed varios pjieri Jlores, & gramina pingues 
 Lata boves, haft a non remis pulchra juvenilis 
 Cert at im Indent, mcejlo Jpe£lante Senatu. 
 
 ' The fertile earth emerging from the fea fliall yield a plenteous fuf- 
 ' tenance to the hardy rufl:icks. Mariners fhall no longer fi(h on the 
 * dried fliore : But boys fliall tliere gather flowers where now the fea 
 ' flows, and cattle feed on its rich paftures. The ad;ive youth, inftead 
 
 K k 2 ' « of
 
 252 
 
 F E N I C E. 
 
 of the oar, fliall exercile themfelvcs with the warlike fpear, while the 
 fenate fhall look on with grief at the furpriling change.' 
 
 It was on this account that part of the Bre/ita nmgra, by means of a 
 
 canal, has been diverted more towards the fouth ; for it is fuppofed that 
 
 the quantity of fand ufually carried by that river into the Lagune or Ihal- 
 
 lows, will thereby be confiderably diminifhed. 
 
 Sannn/ari- The fitiiation of Venice has been celebrated in the following lines by 
 
 wi: s faneg)rk Snuiinxarto'^ ; and the republic made him a prefent of a hundred Lotas 
 oil Venice. ;. ■ r r 
 
 dors -f for every verle. 
 
 V'tderat Adr'iacis Venetam Neptunns in tindis 
 
 Stm-e. urbeni-, (if toti ponere jura mari. 
 Nunc mihi Tarpe'ias qua7iiumvis Jupiter arces 
 
 Objice, & ilia tui mxnia Mariis, ait. 
 Si Peliigo Tiberim prafers, JJrbem afpice utramque, 
 
 lllam homines dices, banc pofuijje Deos § . 
 
 * Neptune faw Venice on th' Adriatic flrand, 
 ' And all the fea under her wide command, 
 
 * Now Jove, faid he, thy Romati towers objedl, 
 
 * And thofe proud walls which Mars could not prccedl ; 
 ' Before the fea '\( Tiber thou prefer, 
 
 * Behold both cities, and thou wilt aver, 
 
 * That men built Rome, but gods placed Venice there. 
 
 Collier. 
 
 1 
 
 Jnothei- enco- Formerly the following dialogue betwixt a foreigner and an old 
 miumonthe nian was to be feen in St. Mark\ church. The former was diftinguillied 
 ■^'""'' by the letter A, which fignified Advena, and the latter by the letter S, 
 
 which flood for Sejiex. 
 
 A. Die. 
 
 * See vol. ii. p. 412, & /eg. for a further account of this Poet. 
 t About 100/. fierling. 
 
 § Sannazari has celebrated this city in the following lines, befides the epigram quoted 
 above. 
 
 ^lis Vaietie mirocula proferat urbis, 
 
 Una injiar magni qua funul orbis habet ? 
 Salve Italum regina, alt'f pulcherrirna Rom^ 
 JErnula, qua t err is, qua' dominarh aquis 
 Tu tibi vcl reges cives fads, O decus, O lux 
 
 Aufonia, per quam libera turba juinus. 
 Per quam Barbaries nobis non imperat, et fol 
 
 Exoriens nojlro dar'ius crrbe nitet / Lib. iii. Eleg. I. 
 
 * Vemtia
 
 F E N I C E' 253 
 
 A. Die antique Senex, Venctce quis conditor Urois ? 
 
 S. Jupiter. A. Uftde ones'? S. Attica. A. Scorta? S. Fe/ius. 
 
 A.M/v/iiaf S.Ncptunus. K.Nummi? S.Dido. A.Bellica? S.Mu'uoj's. 
 
 A.A>'tes'? S.Mercurius. A Jura? S. Minerva dcdit. 
 Non }nirum ejifi alias inter caput exhihct urbes, 
 
 Sluam tot ccekjics compofuerc Dece. 
 
 * Stranger. Pray, old gentleman, by whom was the city of Venice 
 founded ? Old jnan. By Jupiter. Stranger. Who contrived its arfenal ? 
 Old man. Minerva. Stranger. Who ftocked it with ladies of plea- 
 fure ? Old man. Venus. Stranger. Who built its walls ? Old man. 
 Neptune. Stranger. From whom did it derive its coin ? Old tnan. 
 From Dido. Strajiger. To whom does it owe its military glory ? 
 Old tnan. To Mars. Stranger. Its commerce ? Old tnan. To Mercury. 
 Stranger. Its laws ? Old man. To Minerva. No wonder, therefore, 
 it fo far excels other cities, fuice it owes its origin, to fo many deities.' 
 
 This city is fenced from the violence of the waves by feveral fmall I' ^'''o ''' 
 iflands, namely, S. Erajho, il Lido di Palejlrina, tlwA il Lido di Mala- ^mi^J^Mr'^'^'^ 
 mocco. The laft lies about two Italian miles from the city ; it is very ijlmds. 
 narrow, but extends between four and five Italian miles in length. The 
 coaft of this ifland near the fea affords variety of fliell-fifli, fea- weeds, 
 and other marine produdions ; particularly the pidmo marinus virgatus, Pu'mo M*. 
 
 rinus. 
 
 ' Vcnctla {lands with endlefs beauties crown 'd, 
 
 ' And as a world within herfelf is found. 
 
 ' Hail queen of Italy ! for years to come 
 
 ' The mighty rival of immortal Rome ! 
 
 ' Nations and feas are in thy ftates enroll'd, 
 
 ' And kings among thy citizens are told. 
 
 ' Aufonia'i brighteft ornament ! by thee 
 
 ' She fits as fov'reign, unenflav'd and free ; 
 
 ' By thee, the rude Barbarian chas'd away, 
 
 ' The rifing fun chears with a purer ray 
 
 ' Our weftern world, and doubly gilds the day. 
 
 In another part of his poems, he fays : 
 
 Addison. 
 
 Nee tu femper eris, qu^ feptem ample^eris arees. 
 Nee lUf qwe mediis <s?nula furgis aquis. 
 
 ' Thou too (halt fall by time or barb'roiis foes, 
 
 ' Whofe circling walls the fcven fam'd hills inclofe; 
 
 ' And thou, whofe rival tow'rs invade the /kies, 
 
 * And, from amidft the waves, with equal glory rife.' 
 
 Addison. 
 
 which
 
 254 VENICE. 
 
 which is Oi^a confidenihle bignefs, and looks like a white jelly ftreaked 
 
 widi brown and yellow. A kind of fca-grals, called fticus marimis, grows 
 
 on feveral of the fl)ell-fifh found here ; and others are covered with 
 
 Lrduca ma. the laciuca marina. Thefe and other kinds of fhell-fiH-i are cleared of 
 
 rina. fj^g Weeds by laying them in vinegar, and afterwards fcraping off with 
 
 a knife the ragged black fliells which cover them. 
 ZannichelU's I fhall not enter upon a defcription of thefe fmall iflands, as the 
 l7ZtS2 learned Zanmchelli has left behind him an accurate natural hiftory of 
 " them, which his fon intends fliortly to publifh. In the fequel I (liall 
 entertain you with an account of thefe two ingenious perfons. Treve- 
 fa?ii's defcription della laguna di Venezia^ publifhed here in quarto in the 
 year 1715, is a curious piece. 
 Vifitatores Th&Jqff'es, or vifJatores, and cuftomhoufe-officcrs keep a (harp look- 
 
 out in the Lagune, that no prohibited or contraband goods be brought 
 into the city, nor any other commcdities without paying the ufual 
 duty : however, they do not much care to moleft German travellers, by 
 whom they have fometimes been very roughly handled ; nor are they 
 leis cautious of meddling with perfons who have a barque of their own. 
 Indeed any perfon, for a fmall gratuity, may get rid of thefe trouble- 
 fome fellows very quietly. 
 Pro/pea of the jj j^^fl- )^q owHcd that the great number of iflands difpetfed in the 
 "'"^' fea, and the churches and other magnificent buildings towering above 
 
 the water, give the city a very grand appearance at a diftance ; and the 
 canals which in moft parts of the city run clofe to the houfes, caufe 
 the greateft admiration to a ftranger, as it is a very uncommon fight. 
 However, excepting the Piazzo di S. Marco, or St. Mark's place, and a 
 few other areas, Fenice may, without any great injuftice to it, be faid 
 to have nothing extraordinary beautiful or grand, when compared with 
 Houfes. many other cities. The houfes in general are but meanly built, and 
 
 Ccmtan-d £^j. inferior to thofe along the fides of tht grachts or canals of Amfier- 
 dam. "' ^c"^- I^ canale tnaggiore, or the great canal, is indeed remarkable for 
 its breadth, and has fome very fuperb houfes on its banks ; but the other 
 Canals. canals are crooked and narrow, and in fummer-time emit a very dif- 
 
 agreeable fmell, occafioned by the great quantity of filth of all kinds 
 EbbandflooL which runs into them. The tide flows here about fix hours, and in 
 fpring-tides generally rifes four or five feet ; but this is not fufiicient 
 for cleanfing the fmall canals. I have more than once obferved a 
 fmall wifp of fi:raw, or any other light fubftance, floating on the water 
 for two or three days, being hardly carried thirty or forty paces from 
 the place where it was firft thrown in. The fea-water is alfo generally 
 thick and foul here. 
 
 The
 
 VENICE. 255 
 
 The gondola's glide very fwiftly on thefe canals ; but as they are Gondolas. 
 painted black, and lined with black cloth, or ferge, they make a difmal 
 gloomy appearance. They will not carry above four or five perfons ; and 
 as the awning is fo low, that a perfon cannot ftand upright in the gondola, 
 when a ftranger gets into one of them, it feems as if he was creeping 
 into a herfe or tomb, hung with black. A gondola may be hired for 
 itvQn or eight lire * a day, except on Afcenlion-day, when they raife their 
 prices confiderably. In a gondola the left-hand is the place of honour; 
 lor as the firft rower fits on the right-hand, he intercepts the profpedt 
 from the perfon who fits on that fide. The gondaliers avoid each other 
 with furprifing exadnefs and celerity, and make ufe of the word flacatido, 
 or Jlali, to fignify to thofe coming another way to keep on the right- 
 hand, and premandoy or premi, as notice to pafs on the left ; fo that 
 the gondola's feldom run each other down. The noble Venetians them- 
 felves are obliged to paint and line their gondola's with black, in order 
 to prevent the extravagant expences, which would arife from an emula- 
 tion to out-vie each other in the fplendor of thefe naval equipages. The 
 lady of a noble Venetian, for the firft and fecond year after her marriage, 
 is indulged with greater freedom in this refpedt. Indeed foreigners are 
 at liberty to fpend what money they pleafe in fine gondola's, &c. but 
 few ftrangers ftay fo long in this city as to make ufe of this political in- 
 dulgence : fo that the only perfons here who diftinguifh themfelves by 
 fplendid gondola's are the foreign minifters, who always make their public 
 entries in thefe vehicles. On thefe occafions the gondola's are extremely 
 gay, being decorated with the fineft paintings, gildings, and fculpture. 
 
 The whole city is divided by a great number of canals ; but by means Bridges. 
 of fmall bridges, of which there are above five hundred, one may go a 
 great way by land. Moft of the houfes which front the v/ater have 
 back-doors to the ftreets, by which they have a communication with 
 each other by land and the bridges. Thefe ftreets are very narrow, and, 
 after rain, fomething dangerous to walk on, the fmooth and broad white 
 ftones with which they are paved being flippery in wet weather ; but par- 
 ticular care is required in croffing the bridges, the fteps and pavement 
 of them being of the fame fmooth free-ftone ; befides, very few of 
 them have any fence on either fide. 
 
 In allufion to this, there is a proverb, which advifes to beware of the Fim- P's. 
 four P's at Venice, namely, Pietra bianca, Ftitana, Prete, and Panta- 
 lone; i. e. 'A white ilone, a whore, a prieft, and the lait P may de- 
 note either mountebanks and jugglers, or the nobility themfelves ; 
 that being a nickname given them by the vulgar. To thefe inconveni_ 
 encies may be added the great number of perfons who fhaye in the go_. 
 
 About 4 J. fterling. 
 
 vernmenl';
 
 -^5^ 
 
 F E N I C E. 
 
 vernment ; the violent tempefts of thunder and lightning, frequent 
 there in fummer; and the diverfions and public feftivals. The three 
 laft inconveniences are fpecified in a common faying, "jiz. Troppo tejle, 
 troppofejle, troppo tempejle. 
 fflafdT "^ The city of ;^V«/Vc, according to fome, ftands on fixtyiflands; others 
 increafethe number to feventy-two. But if all the fpots which have fuc- 
 ceffively appeared above the water in the Lagune, and been rendered a pro- 
 per foundation for buildings, by driving piles into the ground are to be 
 accounted iflands, the number would be flill greater. It is probable, that 
 fome parts of the city were originally iflands, fo as to require no art or labour 
 tomakethem more folid and compadl: Or perhaps the whole foundation 
 was formerly terra Jirma; for it is not to be conceived whence thefprings 
 of frefli-water to be feen at Venice fhould iffue, if the foundation had 
 Frefi-ivater been laid in the falt-water by the hand of man. Unqueftionably the 
 j}rpigs «/ V'e- fprings of frelli-water derive their origin from the mountainous parts of 
 "'"• the continent ; for there is not one eminence on any of the illands in- 
 
 cluded in the city, nor fo much as a fpot of wafte ground, on which 
 the dew, or rain-water from the clouds might fettle, and penetrate into 
 fubterraneous paflages to form fprings. There are near two hundred 
 fountains in Venice ; but the water is fo indiiFerent, that many private 
 dflerm. families preferve the rain-water in cifterns, which are fometimes alfo 
 
 filled with river water out of the Brcnta. 
 Waterforhak- Oh the ifland of St. Helena is a fine well, the water of which is very 
 ingonthe ijlmd QQYiVtvi\Q,Xi\. for the bakers, who bake bread on that ifland to fupply the 
 sj it. He ena. ^^^ ^^^ navy. As this water does not agree with rye, they ufe a coarfe 
 kind of wheat, and to every bufliel of meal they allow half a pound of 
 fait. Though this bread, or bifcuit, be made of wheat, it is very black ; 
 but it is faid, that it will keep above thirty years. In this bakehoufe are 
 forty-fix ovens, and fixty hands, continually employed in baking. The 
 water about the illand of St. Helena is very fhallow, and in fome places 
 is hardly a foot deep; on which account feveral engines are made ufe 
 of for removing the mud, or llime, as it accumulates. 
 Obfer'Tjationon Bread mixed with fea-water, is, at firft, pretty palatable ; but in 
 thebitteniefsof^^^^^ bccomes fo bitter as not to be eatable. It was the opinion of 
 VoJJiin., that the fea-water near the bottom, or at any confiderable depth, 
 was not fo fait as it is near the furface. But the following experiment 
 has fhown the contrary. Some veffels, contrived fo as not to open till 
 they touched the ground, and then to fhut, were let down to the bot- 
 tom of the fea ; and the water was found extremely bitter and fait *. 
 
 * Count MaifigU, by feveral experiments he made with the barometer at Marfeilles^ 
 found that the fea-water at a confiderable depth is a degree warmer than it is at the 
 furface. 
 •<, 3 Were
 
 VENICE, 257 
 
 Were VoJjiia% opinion well grounded, manners would have lefs diffi- 
 culty infupplying thcmfclves- with drinkable water. But as the brackilli 
 and bitter tafte of fea-water is chiefly caufed from detached particles of 
 faline and refinous Jlrata, thefe two qualities muft necelTarily be 
 ftronger, according to the proximity of the water to the bottom ; and 
 as fait is more eafily abraded by water than refin, the tafte of the former li'Mnefs. 
 is predominant in fea-water. 
 
 The circumference of the city 0^ Venice is reckoned to be fix Italia?? Circuit of tk- 
 miles, and it takes up about two hcrurs to make the circuit of it in a ?'■''' ''"''""f" 
 gondola. The number of inhabitants is fuppofed to be two hundred /aL"/'" " " 
 thouiand, including thole of the iQands of Miirano, La Giudeca, and 
 thofe who live on the water in barges, &c. 
 
 The moft famous inns at Venice are I'Aquila 7iera, or the Black Eagle ; i>,>,s. 
 il Lione bianco, or the White Lion ; and // Scudo di Francia, or the Arms 
 oi France ; but they are fomething extravagant in their demands. About 
 a year ago, another inn, called the ,S/. George, which is fomething more 
 reafonable, has been opened, where a traveller pays but fcven lire * a 
 day for dinner, fupper, and the ufe of two rooms neatly furniflied ; and 
 when he happens to dine abroad, three lire are dedudled from that 
 fum. For a fervant's board three lire and a half is the ufual price ; but 
 the charge of keeping a hired lacquey is in all but three lire a day. 
 
 The wine ufually fold at the inns is but indifferent ; however, there /;'/« 
 are feveral convents and wine-vaults, where Vino di Malaga, di Aiaha- 
 Jia, di Cypro, di Capo iljhia may be bought at a reafonable rate. 
 
 They \A\o are not difpofed to take up with the fare of inns, and have Pi-o'viji-.n-. 
 a good cook, may always have their table very well furniHied at Venice, 
 provifions of all kinds being brought thither in great plenty from the 
 'Terra ferma. 
 
 The fea, and the rivers which empty themfelves into the gulph, afford ^'^''• 
 a great variety of good fifli, as cray-fifli, mufcles, oyfters, ^c. The 
 lafl:, though they are very large, are not to be compared for flavour 
 with thofe of Holland znd England. The fifli is flabby, and the ground 
 about the arfenal is of fuch a nature, that it gives thefe oyfters a dif- 
 agreeable tafle, and makes them appear very nafly. Great quantities, 
 however, are brought to this city from the ifland of Murano. The fea 
 and neighbouring rivers furnifli the Venetian tables, at the proper feafons 
 of the year, with no lefs than feventy-feven different kinds of fifhes, 
 feveral of which are peculiar to thefe parts. Their names are as 
 follows : 
 
 * A I'ira is fomething more than 6 d. fterling, feventecn lire being equal to a ■x.eju'in, or 
 C)i. 7.(1. flerling. 
 
 Vol. III. LI i. M^ro,
 
 258 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 1. Albero^ 
 
 2. ylnguilla, 
 
 3. Angufigola, 
 
 4. Afiato, 
 
 5. AJIaca, 
 
 6. yf/Z^^/o, 
 
 7. Baraccola, 
 
 8. Bar bone, 
 
 9. Baicolo, 
 30. Bobba, 
 
 1 1 . Bofegna, 
 
 12. Brancino, 
 
 1 3 . Calamareto, 
 14. Cahimara, 
 1 5. Cappa dent ale, 
 ) 6. Cappa longa, 
 
 1 7. Cappa Santa, 
 
 1 8. Cdpparazzolo, 
 
 19. Cappart, 
 
 20. Chieppa grajj'a, 
 
 2 1 . Chieppa di Po, 
 
 22. Gevolobottolo, 
 
 23. Cievolo Bofega, 
 
 24. Cievolo Caojielio, 
 
 25. Cievolo Detregan, 
 
 26. Cievolo Volpin, 
 
 29 
 
 3^ 
 32 
 
 33 
 34 
 35 
 
 27. Coppefa, 
 
 28. Cor be I to, 
 Dentale, 
 Gambari, 
 Gambarelli, 
 Go, 
 
 Grancio, 
 Gra7tceolla, 
 Granciporo^ 
 
 36. Latiicioli, 
 
 37. Lizza, 
 
 38. Lucerna, 
 
 39. Luccio, 
 Luccio da Latte, 
 Majenetta, 
 Marfwno, 
 Menola, 
 Molecca, 
 Molli da Paragnai, 
 
 46. Moroiia frejca, 
 
 47. Orada di Ca?iale, 
 
 48. Orada di Porto, 
 
 49. Orada di Valle, 
 
 50. Orada vecchia, ' 
 
 51. Oftrica, 
 
 52. Paganello, 
 
 40. 
 4T. 
 
 42. 
 
 43- 
 44 
 45 
 
 53. Panocchia fegjiata, 
 
 54. Panocchia col coratlo. 
 55- P^pra, 
 
 56, PaJ/drino da Latfe, 
 ^y. Peverazzo, 
 
 58. Porefja, 
 
 59. Rai7ia, 
 
 60. Rotnbo, 
 
 61. Sar delta, 
 
 62. Sar del Una. 
 
 63. Sar done, 
 
 64. Schila, 
 
 65. 5>/'/^, 
 
 66. Seppolina, 
 
 67. .S/00-//0, 
 
 68. Sgombro, 
 
 69. Soazo, 
 
 70. Sparc, 
 
 71. Sturione, 
 
 72. iSz^ro, 
 
 73. 'Tenca, 
 
 74. To7/, 
 
 75. Variola, 
 
 76. Ve7-zeIato, 
 jj. Volpino. 
 
 the Adriatic. 
 
 Ctmanial di- 
 vcrfions. 
 
 Great quantity TIic coaft of Napks Is reckoncd to abound in fifh more than any part 
 fjffijh taken in q^ /-^/,, . ygt it is coiTimonly faid, that a greater quantity of fifh is caught 
 at Venice in a month, than at Naples in a whole year. 
 
 Of all the diverfions which this city offers to ftrangers, the carnaval is 
 generally accounted the chief; but I queftion whether it will be thought 
 fo in the eye of an impartial judge. 
 
 Young perfons, who feek for entertainment only in debauchery and 
 exorbitant licentioufnefs, may here, indeed, if not fatiate their defires, 
 at leaft tire themfelves. But the diverfions at this and other feflivals, 
 efpecially on Ajcenfion-day, are of fuch a nature, that to take an habi- 
 tual delight in fuch a diflblute manner of hving, a perfon mufl have caft 
 alide all regard to decency and morality. 
 
 The courtefans who tender their fervices here, are the moft abandoned 
 wretches, who are loft to all fenfe of modefly and decorum, and, for 
 the moft part, have been, for th^ir debaucheries and villanies, driven 
 
 out 
 
 Courtefans.
 
 VENICE, 259 
 
 out of the neighbouring imperial dominions; often bearing on their backs 
 the marks of the punifhment they have more than once fuffered by the 
 hands of the common hangman. 
 
 The Italia?is in general are exceflively fond of mafquerades, and are Camaval 
 generally mafqued during the whole time of the carnaval, except from "'"^'i'^*' "' 
 the preceding Friday to Shrove-Tuefday^ the lad: day of that jovial fea- 
 fon. The mafquerade drefs at Venice confifts only of a night-gown, or 
 a cloak, with a mafque on the face. The general ufe of maiques pre- 
 vents a ftranger from making any acquaintance at this feafon, and like- 
 wife from feeing any ciiriofities ; for no pcrfon is permitted to go into a 
 church or convent in any manner of difguife. As the carnaval feafon is 
 often attended with rain, froli, and fnow, which occafion defluxions, 
 colds, catarrhs, ^c. great numbers of people, for fear of vvorfe confe- 
 quences, are obliged to confine themfelves to their chambers. 
 
 A ftranger is foon tired of the Ridotto at Venice; and as the purfes ofRi4otto. 
 moft travellers will not allow them to game very high, it would be im- 
 prudent in a foreigner to engage too far in this diverfion ; efpecially as 
 the cards are different from what he has been ufed to. None but noble 
 Venetians hold the banco or bank, as it is called, in the ridoUO'Voom. 
 Clofe by every banker fit two ladies in mafques, who are allowed to put 
 him in mind of any miftakes he may chance to commit to his difadvan- 
 tage. The bankers are unmafqued ; but the pointeurs., as they are 
 called, keep them on. No mafque is denied admittance into the ridotto- 
 room ; fo that it may well be conceived what inconveniences one mud: 
 fuffer from fuch a crowd. 
 
 The p-rand fcene of all the follies acfted durincr the carnaval is the Pi- Cama-valdi. 
 azzo di S.Marco, or St. Marizs Place, where mountebanks, buffoons, n'T,"!/ 
 
 \ r r T ■ r 1 ^ Mark J Mace. 
 
 and others, whole proieliion is to make a prey of the fimple vulgar, 
 have their ftages, and exhibit their Ihovvs. But the moft ridiculous 
 figures among all the reft, are the old women, or old men, who fit Forfunet.l- 
 upon a table, and are confulted like oracles concerning future events, i^'-^- 
 the fuccefs of enterprifcs, C^c. That among fuch a multitude of peo- 
 ple this may be done without confufion, and with the greater fecrecy, 
 thefe fortune-tellers make ufe of a long fpeaking-trumpet, through 
 which the confulter conveys his queries by a whifper, whilft the con- 
 iurer lays his ear to the large opening, and inverts the trumpet to refolve 
 the qucftions propofed. Amidft the pity which naturally muftarlfe in a 
 humane breaft at any indance of weaknefs or wickednefs that debafe ra- 
 tional creatures, a perfon can fcarce forbear fmiling to fee poor fimple 
 girls coming up to thefe fortune-tellers (vvhofe looks and geftures betray 
 their fear and confufion) to enquire about their fate with regard to 
 their amours, (Sc. To raife the higher idea of their abilities, thefe im- 
 
 L 1 2 poftors
 
 26o V E N I C E. 
 
 poftois are fure to place om tlieir tables fome paltry globes, or other 
 allroiiomicril inftriiments. Even ecclefnftics, both regular and fccular, 
 have been known openly co have recoarfc to thefc fortune-tellers. 
 (•.ojee-hcufcs \\\ the colonade or cloifter round St. Mark's Place are feveral coffce- 
 '■•'■'■i*^'jf""''S houfes, which are frequented chiefly by foreigners. Formerly the com- 
 pany ufed to fit and convcrfe together at their eafe in thefe cofifee- 
 lioufes; but this cuftom has been for fome time prohibited. This was 
 owing to a difcovery made, that the fon of Bakgnos, the imperial envoy, 
 had, in the carnaval, made ufe of this opportunity, when mafqued, to 
 hold difcoufe with feveral of the Venetian nobility ; and from that time 
 no benches or chairs are allowed in the coftee-houfcs (;f this city. 
 Oiher majfM- It is not Only in carnaval-time that mafques are allowed, but on fe- 
 nades. veral other occafions, namely, on the four days when the republic holds 
 
 its pulilic feafts; at \}ac'Regnte^OK boat-races, and other entertainments for 
 the diverfion of foreign princes ; at the nuptials of one of the nobles ; 
 on the eledion of the procurators of St. ilf^?^ and the P^i'r/m j and 
 likewife when thev enter on their office : at the public entry of a foreign 
 embaffador, and that of the Patriarch, or Primicerio, &c. Thefe op- 
 portunities the Venetian ladies wait for v.ith the mofk eager impatience ; 
 but the hufbands at the fame time are no lefs on their guard to fecure 
 the honour of the marriage-bed. And there are too many inftances of 
 intrigues, and even trifling gallantries with thefe wanton iyrens having 
 Con'verfation been rcvcngcd with death. However, as the commerce between the 
 'u.'iihthe'wo- {exes in Italy has undergone great alterations fince the beginning of this 
 century, this is alfo the cafe m Ve7rice : where ladies of charader not 
 only receive male vifitants in the morning, when in an undrefs, but ac- 
 cept of invitations to entertainments in mixed company, and even to 
 treats at taverns. In fliort, fuch improvements have already been made 
 in this freedom of behaviour, that parties of both fexes meet at private 
 balls in dancing-mafler's houfes in this city ; but thefe are parties where 
 foreigners are feldom or ever admitted, unlefs they happen to be known 
 to fome of the principal perfons of the company. 
 Gondf.fim of On the laft T'hurjday of the carnaval, when licentioufnefs is carried to 
 the carna-val. jjg gfeatcft height, bulls are baited in feveral ftreets, and on St. Marks 
 Place ; but thefe Fefte de' Tori may be feen, at other times, every Friday 
 morning, near the fhambles. 
 Plays. The Italian plays in general are wretched performances, and thofe of 
 
 Venice are not at all better than the reft. As the whole defign of the 
 adlors is to raife a laugh in the audience, to that purpofe they employ all 
 manner of grimaces, poftures, and diftortions, which fometimes border 
 upon obfcenity. 
 
 The
 
 V ^fi^^N ICE. 261 
 
 The /Ai/Zi/;/ opera maybe veryjuAIy i-cckoncd among the principal O^vv?. 
 diveriions both of the canuival and the Afcenlion-time. 1 fliall not now 
 enter upon a defcription of this entertainment till I have the pleafure of 
 feeing an opera at Fenicc. In this particular the Italians unqueftion- 
 ably furpafs all other nations ; and nothing but an infupportable va- Cimpanhn 
 nly can make the French bring their muGc in competition with that of /r/ww.. //-<• 
 Italy. The decorations of the theatre at Paris are indeed fcarce to be pi*'''''? """^ 
 exceeded, and the dancing and interludes between the ads are excellent. ^aT °^'~ 
 The Rccilatl-vo alfo among the French receives an agreeablenefs from its 
 being performed more in the manner of Airs * than the Italians. They 
 alfo make ufe of chorus's and duettes, which the Italians have not. 
 Thefe are all points in which the latter might with advantage borrow 
 fomething from the former. But in the compohtion, and efoecially 
 the executive part, the French are vaftly inferior to the Italians. Their 
 Airs for the moft part refemble chanfons a boire, or drinking fongs, and 
 have fo little variety, that the repetition of the fame founds muft be 
 tirefome to a nice ear. The femitones or tranfitions from one note to 
 another are too much lengthened out by their vocal performers, and are 
 generally accompanied with a trill or fliake on the laft fyllable of the 
 verfe. When a new opera is exhibited, if the French audience cannot 
 make themfelves mafters of the Airs, fo as to be able to join with the 
 performers in finging them on the fecond night, they are difpleafed with 
 it. But in the Italian theatre the cafe is different ; for though the latter 
 have naturally a great fondnefs and a genius for mufic ; yet to be able 
 to imitate the fine airs of their fingers, they are fenfible it requires a 
 much longer time. Indeed there are many airs fung by Farinclli and 
 Fau/li?ja, which thofe who have a great command of voice know very 
 well they can never reach. Poffibly the liberty allowed by the Italians 
 to thQ.\rVocalifti, or vocal performers, merely to difplay their talent, may 
 be ill grounded ; and an opera compofed in a medium between the Ita- 
 lian and French tafle in this particular, would be the moft perfed. The 
 inftrumental mufic zi Paris is arrived at a great height; fome of the per- 
 formers certainly are not to be exceeded, as Guignon, an Italian, for the 
 violin ; Demarets and Battijla for the bafs-viol ; Blavet for the Germati 
 flute ; and Fabio for the archi-lute. 
 
 Among the fingers in Italy Carlo Br ofchi, alfo called FarinelU, \i\- Accomit of 
 difputably makes the greateft: figure for the finenefs and modulation of Farinelli. 
 
 * I muft differ from the author in this point ; tor the Italian recitative, as it approaches 
 nearer to the tone of voice in common difcourfe (in Italy) muft be more natural than 
 that ufed in France, which little agrees with the rapidity of the French pronunciation. Be- 
 fides, there is a certain gloominefs in tiie recitative of the French opera, which is not un- 
 like fome of our old Englijh ballad tunes. 
 
 hit
 
 .262 VENICE. 
 
 Ills voice. He is mafter of twenty-three different notes or gradations of 
 voice ; and as it is univerfally allowed that he excels all other fingers, 
 this extraordinary talent is (aid to have been beftowed on him by the 
 virgin Mary, as a grateful return for the extraordinary adoration which 
 FarinelW'S, mother conflantly paid to her. He is now in the twenty- 
 third year of his age ; fo that he may poffibly improve, and even furpaf; 
 his prefent flcill in muiic. 
 ■Cariaini, bv. Next to FarinelU for a graceful manner, propriety of geftures, and 
 ftrength of voice, Giovanni Cariftini defervcs to be mentioned ; and after 
 him Sene/ino., Giacinto Fontana, otherwife called Farfarello, Gaetano 
 Majorano, called Caffarello, Angela AmerovoH, Nicolini, Gaetano Valletta 
 di Milano, &c. Care has been taken that none of thefe famous fingers 
 (hould be disfigured with a beard ; however, their fmooth faces with 
 their flirill and effeminate voice feem to be fomething out of charafter, 
 when they make their appearance on the ftage like warlike heroes, ani- 
 mating their troops to fecond their bravery. But we mufl: obferve 
 that opera's are not calculated to pleafe the judgment, but to tickle the 
 ear; fo that propriety of charafters is as little to be expedted in thefe 
 pieces, as fublime and poetical language. The mufic of the Airs is often 
 compofed before the words ; and the author is fometimes obliged in cer- 
 tain fyllables pointed out to him, to introduce a word which has the 
 vowels e or a; thofe vowels being the two founds on which a good 
 voice can beft difplay its ftrength and variety of modulations. 
 Italian /an- It is Certain that no language is fof\vcll adapted to mufic as the IfaJian, 
 ^'T4!' jV'^ on account of its ufing fo many vowels in proportion to the number 
 
 aJaptcd to tmc- , iii-ir)- rr 
 
 fie. of conionants; for even all the lubuantives terminate m a vov/el m that 
 
 harmonious language. 
 Of Faurtina Among the Italian female fingers the precedency is not determined 
 t'^a"/^^"' ^y ^^ connoifi^eurs ; fome declaring in favour oi Franccfca Ctizzoni San- 
 tivixtthem. doni, and others ol Faujlina Bordoni. Neither of them indeed has any 
 pretence to beauty , but of the two Cuzzoni has the advantage in that 
 particular. Her voice is alfo clearer, and flie is miftrefs of a greater 
 compafs of notes. On the other hand Fauftina has a very graceful man- 
 ner of finging, more fkill and variety of modulations, makes quicker 
 trills or fhakes, and adts better on the Rage than Ciizzoni. As thefe two 
 ladies are declared rivals, they never fing together ; efpeciallv fince their 
 late return from Kngland, where they endeavoured to mortify each other 
 to the utmoft of their power. It was indeed contrived to bring an opera 
 on the ftage, applicable to thefe two performers, in which two en- 
 amoured and jealous princefies were introduced ; and, as far as polTible, 
 all precedency to either of them avoided. But this did not totally re- 
 Why they left movc their jealoufy. As the virulence of party-fpi pit in E/Tg-Ar/zrf' plainly 
 
 England. difcovers
 
 VENICE, 263 
 
 difcovers itfelf in many things quite remote from politics, it proved 
 lb with refpedt to thele two Italian lingers. But fince the origin of this 
 difference of parties is foreign to my purpofe, I fliall only fay, that the 
 party v;hich oppofcd the court efpoufed Faujlina. The two diredlors of 
 the opera alfo departed from their neutrality. And whenever the famous 
 Handel favoured Faujlina in the compofition, and gave her opportunities 
 to diiplay her voice and fkill to the utmoft, Buojiancini took care to give 
 Cuzzoni the like advantage. This affair produced feveral private quar- 
 rels. The ladies particularly exprefled great warmth for the different 
 caufes which they had efpoufed. Thofe who fivoured Faujlina, ufed to 
 hifs and make a noife whenever Cuzzoni began to fing. And this rude- 
 nefs was, with no lefs violence, returned by Cuzzoni's adherents, when 
 Faujlina was to perform. At laft, when the opera fubfcriptions came to 
 be renewed for the fucceeding year, feveral abfolutely refufed to fub- 
 fcribe if Faiiflina was allowed to fing any longer, and others entered the 
 like protefl againft Cuzzoni ; fo that the only expedient for continuing 
 the opera's, and reftoring harmony among the politer part of the na- 
 tion, was to fend the two rival heroines out of Fngland. Upon this, 
 Handel himfelf made a voyage to Italy, on purpofe to provide new 
 lingers, who might be perfuaded to agree together without caufmg fuch 
 heart-burnings among the audience. 
 
 At Turin, Handel laboured hard to prevail on Mademoifelle Somis, o/Madamr- 
 fifter to the celebrated mulician and diredlor of the royal chapel there, /^^^« Somis. 
 to accompany him to London. But her brother, from his nice fenfe of 
 honour, ftrenuoufly oppofed her appearing on the ftage, notwithftand- 
 ing Mr. Allen, the EngUP^ minifter, offered to be anfwerable that, for 
 five or fix years, fhe fliould have an annual falary of a thoufand pounds 
 fferling, or twenty thoufand Piedmontefe livres, though fhe could not 
 appear in a principal charadler, as flie never had been upon the ffage. 
 
 The vaft fum of money which Faujlina mufl have amaffed in Eng- UheralUyof 
 land, appears from what fhe got by one benent-night, the clear profit ^'^'''?^"sl-'||'/,'' 
 of which amounted to fifteen hundred pounds flerling. Befides, £lie '"'"^" ■'"'''" " 
 
 received of my lady , during her ftay in England, above a thoufand 
 
 pounds fterling in money and prefents. The agreeablenefs of her con- 
 verfation alfo procured her admittance to all the aflemblies of thofe per- 
 fons of quality who favoured her. Though a voyage to England is fo 
 advantageous to the Italian fingers of both fexes, who are treated there 
 vi^ith the greateft civility, yet they do not feem to be very willing to un- 
 dertake it, from a pretence, or a real perfuafion, that the faline exhala- 
 tions of the fea is detrimental to a fine voice : But probably this pre- 
 judice may wear off, fince Faujlina and Cuzzoni are returned from £7;^- 
 iojid with their voices unhurt, and their fortunes greatly im-proved. The 
 5 Englijh^ ■
 
 264 
 
 Many of the 
 famous ftngen 
 extiauagant. 
 
 Story of Bar- 
 baruccia. 
 
 Other female 
 fingers notu 
 Urging. 
 
 Comfofers, 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 ILjigUp have taken a great deal of pains to induce Farinelli to take a voyage 
 to London; bat hitherto to no purpofe *. This refufal may pofiibly pro- 
 ceed from the great 'llims of money which fine fingers get even in Italy ; 
 Farinelli having, during the laft carnaval at Venice, received five hundred 
 piftoles -j-, and Cuzzoni a thoufand Zequins §. And very lately Ftiiiftina, 
 in five weeks, during which Ihe performed about fifteen times, brought 
 away from 'Turin five hundred Louis d'ors ]| ; and fi^r performing in feven 
 or eight operas, afted about Afcenfion-time at Venice, flie received three 
 hundred Louis d'ors. Srnr/ino. during the laft carnaval at Turin, got fix 
 hundred Louis d'ors. He has now above twenty thoufand Picdmofitejc 
 livres |' a year (being the intereft of the money he has faved) with a 
 country-houfe near Siei2na, which cofl him above a hundred thoufand 
 Ticdmontcje livres 4., and has fome thoughts of quitting the fiage, and 
 living on his eftate. 
 
 Faujlina has likewife amafied a confiderable fortune ; and is going to 
 be married to M. HaJJe, a native of Briuijwick, wliofe fkill in mufic is 
 fo great that not a few connoiiTeurs in Italy think him equal to 
 Handel. Some of thefe fingers, however, feem to defpife all occonomy : 
 And as they get large fums without much trouble, fo they lavifliiy fpend 
 them by keeping elegant tables, wearing rich dreffes, and other extra- 
 vagances ; but throw away flill more by gaming. 
 
 I remember one Barbaruccia, a female finger at Turin, who, being 
 offered two hundred ducats for one night's lodging, by a young French 
 traveller, fent him for anfwer, ' That if her perfon was as agreeable to 
 ' him as it was dilagreeable to herfelf, the pofieifion of it (hould not 
 ' only coft him nothing, but fiie would alfo make him a prelent of two 
 ' hundred Louis d'ors for his good fervices'. 
 
 Other famous female fingers, befides Faujlina and Cuzzoni, are Selvai, 
 or Maria Maddalena Frigeri, Anna Ciro, Giujlina Turcotti, Cerefma, and 
 Lancetti. A young woman called La Rofa, has been for fome years in- 
 ftruded in mufic here at the expence of the eleftor of Bavaria, and 
 great things are expeded from her. Mr. Handel, who at prefent refides 
 at London, the above-mentioned M. Hajfe, Nicola Porpora, direftor of the 
 band of mufic in the hofpital of incurables at Venice, Giovanni Porta, of 
 the chapel of the hofpital ^^//<z PietazX. Venice, GeminianoGiocamelli, and 
 
 * Farinelli was at laft prevailed upon in the year 1734, to go to England, when an offer 
 was made him of an annual allowance of two thoufand five hundred pounds flerling. His 
 ftav at London was not long ; for he had ftill more advantageous offers made him by the 
 Spanijh ambaffador, to engage him to go to Madrid, that his nrufic might I'umetimes di- 
 vert the melancholy into which Philip V. was then fallen. 
 
 t 447/. 18 J. \d. §. 616/. Si-/. U About 500/. flerling. 
 
 X About 1000/. flerling. 4- 5000/. flerling, 
 
 LliCa
 
 VENICE, 265 
 
 huca Antonio Prcdicri are highly celebrated as excellent compofers of 
 mufic. 
 
 Interludes which confifl: of drolleries of all kinds, accompanied with imrluda. 
 fuitable fongs, are introduced between the acfts of the opera on the Ita- 
 lian ftage, to divert the audience. Ballads and dances are alfo fre- 
 quently exhibited, in which the two fiflers of the name of Gaktti, and 
 Aquilante a famous dancer, perform with great applaufe. But thefe 
 ballads are not to be compared with the opera-dances at Paris; for 
 Ca?77margo, who is now in that city, has no equal for the folemn 
 dance. 
 
 In the printed Italian opera's, it is well known, that the authors fel- Ridiculous pi-o- 
 dom fail to fill the lirft page with a devout and folemn proteftation "-^'J'"'" °-^^'^' 
 that they are true catholics in their hearts; and that the words Idolo, "^ri„ud hnVmn. , 
 Numi, Delta, Fato, Fortuna, Adorare, and the like, which they were "/'"«''• 
 obliged to make ufe of, are to be looked upon only as poetical fidtions. 
 
 If a traveller cannot contrive to be at Venice in carnaval time, the befl: Di-uerfmns of 
 ■ way to retrieve that lofs, is fo to order his route as to be there about Holy- '^^ M^'^"!: <>f 
 Thurfday; or if one of the two muft be omitted, I would advife it fhould 
 be the carnaval. For the afcenlion feftival affords all the diverfions of the 
 carnaval, as malquerades, opera's, (Sc. excepting the ridotto's and the dif- 
 folute revels about the clofe of the latter. But to a perfon of any tafte, the 
 lofs of thofe extravagant feflivities is fufficiently compenfated by the de- 
 lightfulnefs of the feafon, the annual fair, and the folemnity of the Doge's 
 marriage with the fea. The annual fair begins on the Sunday before Afcen- Annual fair. 
 Jion-day, and lafts till Whitfiinday. During this fair, St.iVf^r/^'s Place is taken 
 up with booths fo arranged as to form feveral flreets ; and all forts of 
 goods are expofed to fale at the (hops in the little flreets called Le Mercerie, 
 near the Piazza di S. Marco. On Afcenjioi-eve, vefpers are performed with 
 great pomp and fplendor, and the pretended miraculous blood oi Chrijl^ 
 . with other remarkable relicks kept in St. Mark\ treafury are expofed 
 to public view in the great church, which is dedicated to that faint. 
 
 On Afcenfion-day, about ten o'clock in the morning, the fignal being Carriage j 
 given by a difcharge of great guns and ringing of bells, the Doge, or if '"^.^ ,^?^^.. 
 he happens to be indifpofed, the Vice-doge (who is always one of the fix ''"* 
 
 Conjiglieri) goes on board the Bucentoro or Biicentaiir, and, accompanied 
 by feveral thoufand barques and gondola's, a great number of gallies finely 
 ornamented on that occafion, and the fplendid yachts of foreign ambaffa- 
 dprs, is rowed out to fea about two hundred paces, between the iilands 
 of St. Erafmo and // Lido di Malamocco. The patriarch, (who on this 
 day, according to an ancient cufbom, in commemoration of the fimple 
 diet of the primitive clergy, is entertained in the Olivetan convent, on 
 the ifland of St. Helena, with chefnuts and vvater) and feveral of the 
 
 Vol. III. M m digni-
 
 266 V E N 1 C E. 
 
 dignified clergy come on board tlie Bucentoro, and prefent tiie Doge and 
 Signoria, as they pafs, with artilkial flowers or nofegays, v/hich, at their 
 return, they make prefents of to their acquaintance. The Dc^e, at his 
 putting off and return, is faluted by the cannon of a fort on the Lido, 
 of the caftic on the ifland Rafmo, or Erciftno, and with the imall arms 
 of the foldiers, who are drawn up along the Lido fhore. Thefe ifiands 
 lie about two Italiaii miles from the city ; and an eminence on the ifland 
 nf Z/Wo affords a diftinft view of this pompous proceilion, and of the 
 vafl number of boats, Gfc. which cover the furface of the water, and 
 make a beautiful appL-arance. In the mean time feveral hymns a;e per- 
 formed on board the Bucentoro, by the band of mufic belonging to St. 
 Mark's church, and feveral prayers appointed for the occafion are read 
 or fung, till the Doge has pafied the two forts o^ Lido and St. Eralmo ; 
 and then he proceeds a little farther towards the Lido fhore, the ftern of 
 his barge being turned towards the main fea. Here the Patriarch pours 
 into the fea fomc water, whicli has been confecrated with particular 
 prayers, and is faid to have the virtue of allaying Storms and the fiirv 
 of the waves. After this the Doge drops a gold ring into the fea, through 
 a hole near his feat, at the fame time repeating thefe words, Dcfponjct- 
 inus Te Mare, infigmwi leri perpetuiqiie dominii ; i. e. ' We efpouie thee, 
 ' O fea, in lign of our real and perpetual dominion over thee.' The 
 ring indeed is of gold, but is plain, and without any ftones ; fo that it 
 Origin of this cannot be of any great value. This ceremony is faid to have been firfl 
 cer£?/io':y. inflitut^d by pope Alexander III. in gratitude for the good offices which 
 the Venetians had done him. For under the Doge, Sebaftiano Ziani, 
 they defeated and took prifoner Otho, fon of the emperor Frederic I. 
 Fable of the The truth of the whole ftory is dubious ; but the circumftance of the 
 '^"^"'/"■f'''**^ emperor's purchafmg the Pope's pardon, with the fcandalous fubmiffion 
 Frederic L of lying down and fuffering the Pope to tread on his neck, is without any 
 exfkded. foundation *. However, on this day prints reprefenting this extraordi- 
 nary tranfadion, and paltry poems on the fame fubjeft are publicly 
 carried about and fold at Venice. 
 
 * The authorities on which the whole is grounded has been overthrown by Afajus and 
 Heumann. Nauclerus fecms to be the firft who invented this fable, and was blindly fol- 
 lowed bv Schedcly Si:Micus, and other credulous writers. This ftory is ftill the more fufpicious, 
 as none of the writers of that time take notice of it; and even Ro?)maldi, bifhop of Salerr.c, 
 who feems to have been prefent at the interview, is wholly fdent as to this remarkable 
 circumflance. Befides, the Pope, who, in his letters to tbx bifhops of 1^;/ and Z)»r- 
 /'y?ot, gives a circumrtantial account o* the reconciliation, fays not a word of this aflair, 
 which muft have highly flattered his vanity. Others mention it In very obfcure terms^ 
 and obferve, that Frederick, was of a charafter little difpofed to make fuch a fcandalous fiib- 
 niiffion. [Perhaps the author's prejudice in favour of the head of the empire makes him 
 rejecS this itoiy, as the arguments he ufcs to confute it are not fufficient to convince impar- 
 tial perfons.] 
 
 Ho\v
 
 VENICE' 267 
 
 How far the power of the Venetian republic over the Adriatic ex- 
 tends, I fliall not pretend to determine; but it is certain that the Pope 
 could not transfer to others what did not belong to him. Bcfides, it 
 feems flrange that the imperial ambaffador, without the leaft form of 
 proteftation, not only affifts at this ceremony, but together with the 
 French ambaflador accompanies the Doge in the Buccntaur . As for the 
 SpaJiiJJj ambaflador, he has never appeared at any public ceremony, fince 
 the Venetians decided the contefl: about precedency between him and the 
 French minifter in favour of the latter. 
 
 The Doge in his return goes afhore at the ifland of Lido, where he 
 hears mafs performed by the patriarch in St. Nicholas's church. In the 
 evening the principal members of the council, and all who attended the 
 Doge in the Buce7naur, are entertained at the Doge\ palace ; where the 
 defert, which reprefents gondolas, forts, G?c. is expofed the whole day 
 to the admiration of the populace. 
 
 The word Bucentoro i% faid to derive its origin from the firft vefl!el Etymology cf 
 ufed for this folemnitv, which had the image of a Centaur carved on it. the --M^ird ^n- 
 
 ccntoro 
 
 Bu, in the ancient language of this city fignified huge, or great ; and 
 this alfo was the import of the Greek particle Ba, as appears from Varro, 
 de Re rujiicd^. 
 
 Three fuch vefl*els are fliewn in the arfenal. The oldeft of thefe was 
 built in the year 1520, the I'econd in 1605, and the third about two 
 years ago. It is natural to fuppofe that thefe barges have gradually im^ " 
 proved in fplendor and magniiicence year after year. 
 
 The newefl: Bucentoro is a kind of Galeafs a hundred feet in length, Bejo-ii,,,..,, q/ 
 and twenty broad. It has forty-two benches for the rowers, which are '''''^^"'^'''°'^"'' 
 concealed under the two great cabins, and on every bench are four 
 rowers. The Buce^itoro is not manned with galley-flaves, but with 
 men belonging to the arfenal, who, on this occafion, are allowed an ex- 
 traordinary pay. The Bucentoro is never brought out of the arfenal, but 
 for thefe eipoufals, being there kept dry under cover ; from whence it is 
 launched about eight days before yljcenfion-day ., and remains on the 
 water about eight days after the ceremony. 
 
 The fculpture on the Bucentoro reprefents the Pagan fea-gods, the 
 water-nympths, rivers, fea-monfters, fliells, Qfc. with the flatues oi 
 Juftice, Truth, Fidelity, Vigilance, Peace, Plenty, Apollo and the nine 
 Mufes, the twelve Months, and feveral other emblematical figures. The 
 
 * Lih. ii. c. 5. Kovi,^ jMenas, VK^ejlatnn bourn, (^ ab his did plcroque magna, ut ^utrw-nt, 
 iSbCi-^oi, |Sf?.ifio;, Poiwi;. ^acvxot is a kind of large fis:, ^a?i>;xo5 denotes extrsme and inlup- 
 portable hunger, !'-=oi-^oi, a violent thirft, CowTrii, a pcrfoii with large eyes. Thefe inftances 
 ihew the injuftice done to Hojner, when he is cenfured for calling a^goddefs, whofe beauty 
 he intends to extol, Ox-eyed, as Gowjri; is generally rendered. 
 
 M m 2 gild-
 
 268 F E N I C E. 
 
 gilding was performed by Giovanni AJami, a Venetian., and coft about 
 ten or twelve thoufand Ducati d'argento *. It is true, the Bucentoro is 
 very beautiful in its kind; yet it mufl: be owned that the king oi Great 
 Uritain\ chief yacht makes a much more fplcndid and nobler appear- 
 ance, though it did not coft near lo much as the former. 
 
 When the Bucentoro goes out, it has three officers on board, who arc 
 flyled admirals. One is called Ammiraglio deW Arfenale, the fecond Am- 
 mlragUo del Porto del Lido, and the third Ammiraglio del Porto di Ma- 
 lamocco ; but the firft is inverted with the command of the veflel, and 
 takes a mofl: ridiculous oath, that he will bring the T)oge fafe and found 
 back to the city, in fpite of wind and weather. Indeed, he is in little 
 danger of forfeiting his oath, as the folemnity is deferred till the enfu- 
 ing Sunday if a brilk gale happen to blow. This caution either proceeds 
 from an exceflive care for the fafety of the Doge and the Signoria, or 
 fuch an opportunity is readily embraced for detaining the great numbers 
 of ftrangers, who refort hither from the Terra ferma, as long as they can, 
 that they may fpend the more money in the city. 
 RoiwHg On Afcenfion-day in the afternoon, feveral hundreds of boats and gon~ 
 
 matches, or dola's may be feen rowing for wagers on the Corfo or Canale di Murano. 
 And their dexterity in keeping clear of each other, tacking about, &c. 
 is very furprizing. In moft of the gondola's, on this dav, there are mafques 
 and mufic ; and there appears an univerfal emulation among them who 
 fliall divert themfelves moft. 
 Called Re- When any foreign prince of diftinftion arrives at Venice, the republic 
 gatta. generally entertains him with a Regatta or rowing matches of gondola's 
 
 on the great canal. The word Regatta feems to be derived from the 
 Aurigatio, or chariot-races of the Circenfian games. 
 Fight betiuixt Formerly an'other diverfion was exhibited at this feafon on a bridge 
 the Caftellani near St. Barnabas'?, church ; which was an engagement betwixt the CaJ- 
 ati icoou. fgii^jji and Nicoloti. During this mock battle feveral perfons on both 
 fides are thrown over into the water. This bridge is feven common paces 
 broad, eighteen long, and without any fence ; and when fuch an en- 
 gagement was going to be exhibited, the water under it was made deeper 
 than ufual. The combatants were not allowed to fcratch or feize one 
 another, but only to ftiew their ftrength and addrefs with their arms 
 and fifts. But this diverfion has been fupprefied for fome time, having 
 once occafioned a dangerous tumult; when the populace affaulted with 
 ftones the houfes where the nobles were pofted to view the battle and 
 encourage the combatants. 
 
 o 
 
 Venice, May, 1730. 
 
 * About 2000 /. fteriing. 
 
 LETTER
 
 VENICE, 269 
 
 LETTER LXXIV. 
 
 Of the Doge^ the Senate, the Nobility, the Inquifition, the 
 PoHce, the Ducal-Palace, the Piazza cii S. Majxo, or 
 St. Mark's, Place, the Mint, the Public Library, the great 
 Arfenal, and military Forces at Venice. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 THE form of government in the republic of Venice, has been (o Covenment. 
 fully defcribed by Sanfovino, Didicr, Amclot, and others, that it 
 would be fuperfluous to enlarge on it here. 
 
 The l!)ogc is very juflly faid to be Rex in purpura, Senator in curia, in jhe Do'-e. 
 IJrbe captivus, extra iirbemprivatiis. ' A king as to his robes, a fenator 
 
 * in the council-houfe, a prifoner within the city, and a private man 
 
 * out of it.' His fons and brothers are excluded from all confiderable 
 offices, and incapable of being fent on embaflies as long as he lives ; 
 and, without the fenate's confent, they are not to accept of a fief from a 
 foreign prince, or a benefice from the Pope. Even the Doge hiinfelf, is 
 not to marry the fifter or relation of a prince, without the permiflion of 
 the Gran Conjiglio, or great Council. On his demife, his adminiftration 
 is ftri<ftly enquired into, and frequent opportunities taken of laying a 
 
 heavy fine on his heirs for his male-adminiftration. Even in his \\(c- His pc-.'.-er li. 
 time he is fubjed to the decrees of the ftate-inquifition ; the prefident of""'''^- 
 which may at all hours, go into his moft fecret clofets, and fearch his 
 bed and all his writings, while the Doge dares not exprefs the leaft dif- 
 gufl or refentment. In ftate affairs he cannot do the leafl: thing, nor 
 r,o out of the city without the confent of the fenate ; and during his flay 
 on the Ttrraferma, he is looked upon as no more than a private gen- 
 tleman. 
 
 The yearly revenue of his office amounts to about twelve thoufand 
 dollars*, and half of this fum is expended on the four -{- entertainments 
 which he is obliged to give every year, The Doge is not to accept of 
 the leaft prefent from a foreign prince; neither can he refign, though 
 he may be depofed ; and inflances are not wanting of feveral Doges 
 
 * About 2000/. flerling. 
 
 t Namely, on St. Stt-phrn, and St. Mark's days, on the feftival of the Afcenf.on, and on 
 the 15th of 'June, in comraemoration of a confpiracy detedled in the year 1 310. 
 
 who
 
 270 VENICE. 
 
 who were condemned to lofe their lives, or to be deprived of their 
 fight. 
 
 If it were not a flagrant truth that the human heart idolizes every thing 
 which has a fplendid exterior, we fliould conclude, that the dignity of 
 a Venetian Dcge, under fuch difagreeable circuniftances, would be rather 
 avoided, than eagerly fought after. The ftate and retinue of the Doge, 
 on all public occafions, is indeed very magnificent. He is the prefident of 
 all councils ; and in the great council he has two votes. All the courts 
 ftand up in his prefence, and pay their obeilance to him. On the 
 other hand, he never rifes from his feat, nor takes off his cap or cornoX, 
 except on the elevation of the Hoft at mafs, before a prince of royal 
 blood, or a cardinal, to whom he alfo gives the right-hand. His name 
 is alfo flamped on the money of the republic. All public letters and 
 credentials are direfted to the Doge, and anfwered in his name. He has 
 alfo the nomination of the Primicerio, or dean of St. Mark's, as like- 
 wife of the canons of that church. He fills up the lower offices be- 
 longing to the palace, creates knights, and has feveral other privileges 
 of that kind. 
 Ehaion of the In order as much as poflible to prevent all intrigues in the eledion 
 <2cge. of a Doge, the ceremony is conduced in^the following manner : Upon 
 
 the demife of a Doge, the whole grati configlio, or great council, is con- 
 vened, except the members under thirty years of age, who are excluded 
 on this occafion. A number of balls equal to the number of perfons 
 prefent (which often amounts to above a thoufand) are put into a veflel ; 
 thirty of which are gilt with gold, and the reft only filvered over. 
 Every one of the nobles prefent, according to his feniority, draws a ball ; and 
 they to whofe Ihare the thirty golden balls are fallen, withdraw into a pri- 
 vate room, in order to continue the eledlion. But in drawing the golden 
 balls, leaft two or three perfons of the fame family fhould happen to 
 be appointed electors, all the relations of any nobleman who has drawn 
 a gilt ball are obliged to withdraw ; and for every perfon that departs on 
 this account, a filver ball is taken out of the vefilel, that there may be 
 none remaining, as all the balls are to be drawn out of the veffel. Af- 
 ter this, the thirty eledlors who had drawn the golden balls, draw a fe- 
 cond time out of another veffel, in which there are one-and-twenty fil- 
 ver, and nine golden balls. The nine who draw thefe golden balls 
 choofe forty other eledlors, all of different families, but are allowed to 
 name themfelves of the number; and as all thefe nine cannot choofe an 
 
 X When the Doge is ill, and h's place fupplled by one of the fix ccnjiglieri, the Vlce-dege, 
 though he does not wear the robe, nor fit in the leat, never pulls oiF his cap to any 
 perfon but thofe mentioned above. 
 
 4 equal
 
 VENICE. 271 
 
 equal number of eleftors, each of the four };erfons who draw firfl has 
 the privilege of choofing five perfons, and each of the remaining five 
 names four new electors. In the next place, thefe forty elec'tors'draw 
 from a veiTel, in which are twenty-eight filvered, and twelve gilded 
 balls. To thofe who draw the latter is annexed'the right of chooling 
 twelve other eleftors, of whom the fcnior nominates three, and each 
 of the remaining eleven choofe two, fo that the whole number is tvv^entv- 
 five. Thefe again, by drawing gold and filver balls as before, are re- 
 duced to nine j each of thefe nine nominates five perfons, who make 
 forty-five, who are likewife reduced by lot to eleven. Laftly, thefe 
 eleven nominate forty-one other eledors, the eight feniors naming four 
 each, and the remaining three choofing but three perfons each Thefe 
 forty-one nobles being (as in the foregoing eledions) confirmed by the 
 great council, are locked up in a particular apartment of the ducal palace, 
 where they are confined till they have chofen a Doge. In the mean 
 time they are treated pretty much in the fame manner as the cardinals in 
 the conclave ; but the time of their confinement here is not fo long : 
 for the preliminary eledions, &c. with the nomination of the laft one- 
 and-forty electors, are generally difpatched in two days, and the eleciiun 
 of a Doge is generally brought about in feven or eight days more. He 
 that is eledled Doge mufl have twenty-five voices, out of the forty-one, in 
 his favour. 
 
 When a perfon is elefted Doge, he is not permitted to decline the office. 
 Of this there was an inftance in 1368, vjhen A?idi-ea Contareni made 
 fome difficulty of accepting the dignity, and was threatened with ba- 
 nifhment and confifcation of goods, unlefs he immediately confented 
 to take upon him the office, in confcquence of his eledion. 
 
 All the noblefle, who are about fixteen hundred in number, have a C'/w/ <■;««>//. 
 feat in the great council. The fenate, ov i\\c pregadi, confills of two p/^^'^f'^''" 
 hundred and fifty members, and is the chief college ; having the power 
 of making war, peace, and foreign alliances, with the difpofal of all 
 ofiices by fea and land. The fenate alfo appoints embafi^adors, fixes tlie 
 value of money, and impofes duties and taxes for the fervice of the ftate. 
 Thefe two colleges, namely, the great council, and the fenate, meet 
 on Sundays and holidays in the palace. The time of their meeting, du- 
 ring the fummer feafon, is in the morning, and the afternoon in 
 winter. 
 
 The votes are not collected in the colleges with a regularity becoming Billottatione; 
 fuch auguft aiTemblies ; for the charity-boys, or ballotini, make a great 
 buftle in running about to diftribute the balls, or to put them again into 
 the boxes. Thefe boxes are called bojfoli., and are painted half green 
 and half white ; and when the fenator's hand is put in theballoting-box, 
 
 tlje
 
 272 VENICE. 
 
 the perfon that fits next cannot perceive on which fide of the partition, 
 which divides the box in the middle, he puts the ball. The balls are 
 all white. The balloting being ended, the drawers, of which there are 
 two alfo of different colours in every box, are taken out, and the num- 
 ber of votes are carefully reckoned up. The balls in the white drawer 
 denote the votes for, and thofe in the green the votes againft the que- 
 ftion. 
 
 In order to fee the great council and the fregadi fitting, a perfon muft 
 give a few fliillings, and leave his fword at the door ; for the nobili 
 themfelves are prohibited, under pain of deatli, from coming into the 
 council-room armed with any weapon. 
 Want of dean- What is no Icfs furprifing than offenfive to a ftranger, is the difa- 
 Une/s greeable fmell of urine, (i^c. which is always very ftrong between 
 
 the council-houfe and the fenate-houfe, for want of water and clean- 
 linefs. 
 Hozu tumults Whilft the council is fitting, the lower gates of the palace are fecured, 
 are prt'vented. and fomc of the procurators of St. Mark., from a logietta, or little gallery 
 in St. Mark\ tower, keep a look-out, and give notice of the leafk ap- 
 pearance of an infurredtion. The palace alfo, in cafe of fuch an exi- 
 gency, is provided with a fmall armory. 
 
 The Doge., with his fix conftglieri, who conftitute thtfignoj'la and con- 
 figlietfo, together with a few other fenators, fit on a place that is raifed 
 fomething above the refl:; the latter being feated on benches or forms of 
 an equal height, like thofe which are feen in many Proteflant churches. 
 In the great council feveral things are tranfadled by committees, &c. 
 becaufe the members are fo numerous. 
 llPienCol- The third council is /'/ Pieit Colhgio, which confifts of the Doge, his 
 legio. ^y^ counfellors, the Capi ddla ^larantia Criminale, the Sai'ti Grandi, 
 
 the Savii di 'Terraferma, and the Savii de gFordi?n. In this council letters 
 and infl:ruments relating to the ftate are read, embalTadors arc admitted 
 to audience, and other important affairs are tranfa<3:ed. 
 Savii. The Savii are a kind of public infpeftors, or confuls. One of the 
 
 Savii di Terra ferma has the care of muftering the foldiers of the repub- 
 lic, and fuperintends their marches, raifes new levies, &c. Hence he is 
 called Savio alle Scritture. 
 II Configlio // Configlio di Died confifts of ten counfellors, the Doge, and his fix 
 diDieci, or configUeri. This court decides all criminal cafes without appeal, and is 
 cmna of ten. gj.g^j|y (jj-eaded for its feverity, as its power extends even to the Doge 
 himfelf. This council is particularly diftinguifhed by the title of // Ex- 
 celfo, or the high council. 
 Procurators e/" The procurators of St. Mark were at firft appointed only as comniif- 
 St. Mark. fioncrs to fuperintcnd the building of the churCh ; but, in time, wills, 
 
 3 guardian-
 
 VENICE. 273 
 
 guardianfliips, fice caufKe^ and making a proper provifion for the poor, 
 fell under their jurifdidion. This office is reckoned the more conlide- 
 rable, becaufe it is held foF life. The procurators of St. iliizr/J-are at 
 prefent but nine in number: when the ftate is diflreflcd for money, the 
 title may be acquired by advancing a confidernble fum. 
 
 IITribimale dell' Inqiiiliz>ioiie, or ftate-inquifition, con fifts of three pref;- Political or 
 dents, who keep a very watchful eye over the fafety of the republic ; {Qf'^"'"iuifi- 
 that it behoves every prudent perlon to be upon his guard, and to obfervc 
 the ftriaefl: caution in talking of flate affairs at Venice. The nobility are for- 
 bid to hold any converfation with embaffadors, or ix)reign miniflcrs ; but at 
 ridottos and balls this order is frequently tranfgreffed under the con- 
 venient difguife of mafques. 
 
 For ftill greater fecurity of the ftate, the heads of lions or leopards Denuncic 
 are carved in the wall on feveral parts of the ducal palace, wi h their Sccrette. 
 mouths open, to receive billets or informations of any plot or contriv- 
 ance againft the public tranquility, or other matters which it imports the 
 flate to be informed of. Behind thefe mouths are placed boxes to re- 
 ceive the notes, of which the inquifitors alone have the keys. Such 
 informations require no fignature, but are generally anonymous ; and 
 if a reward is expefted, the informer may at any time make himfelf 
 known by producing a piece of paper torn from the billet put into thefe 
 Denunciejecreite, as they are called, fo as to tally with it. It is left en- 
 tirely to the wifdom and integrity of the inquifitors to determine how far 
 fuch informations are to be relied on. 
 
 // I'ribunale della S. Inquifizioric, or tlie Holy Inquiiltion, falfely fo Theecdefia/ii. 
 called, (for erecting which, the Pope has at lafi: extorted the confent of ^''^ iKqui/uhn. 
 the republic, after a long oppofition) confifts of the Pope's nuncio, the 
 Patriarch, the Inquifitor, and three Afli/lenti, or lay-afliftants, nominated 
 by the Republic. The power of this tribunal, fo formidable in other 
 popiih countries, is here confined within proper limitations by the repub- 
 lic ; and when things of moment are tranfadled in the court of inquifi- 
 tion, the Aijillenti (without whom nothing can come under deliberation) 
 give notice of it to the ftate. As for what relates to the JewiJJj or Greek 
 religion, witchcrnft, '&c. it does not come under the cognizance of this 
 inquiiltion, whofe vigilance is confined to herefy, and the abufe of the 
 facraments. 
 
 In confequence of this regulation, Proteftants at Venice zre not only L'^n/y al/cii- 
 indulged in the private exercife of their religion ; but here are alfo not "^"' ''"'(/'- 
 a few fuch feftaries, as even among Proteftants would be called to ac- 
 count for fome of their tenets, v/ho are fufpeded to be Pjctijh, as they 
 are called. The Lutherans belonging to the German factory maintain a 
 preacher here, who drefles in a lay habit, and calls himfelf counfellor 
 
 Vol. III. Nn to
 
 274 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 to the duke oi Sax-Meinungen. This the republic connives at; ajid the 
 
 Proteftants, on their fide, omit finging hymns in their aflemblies. They 
 
 ufed formerly to bury their dead on tht Lido.; but within thefe fev/ 
 
 years the German houfe has purchafed of the monks of St. Chrijiopher a 
 
 piece of ground that belonged to the convent for that purpofe. 
 
 ■ThcHojicar- Such as fcruple to kneel at the Hpft need be und^r no apprehenfions 
 
 ricdvjitbout at Venice, where, by reafpn of the narrownefs of the flrcets, and the 
 
 a>:)prccrjj:sri. p^.,j-)y canals, it is Carried privately to the fick. 
 
 Regulation of Here is a particular college inftituted, to whofe care the regulation 
 ^>-''P- of drefs is committed by the republic. None are exempted from the 
 
 jurlfdiiftion of this college but noblemen's wives for the two firft years 
 after their marriage, who are called no^ci-ziate during that time, and 
 ftrangers. The former are no farther indulged than in wearing a pearl 
 necklace, and a gold fringe at the bottom of their gowns ; and in giv^ 
 ing their gondaliers ribbons to wear on their caps. But here alfo, as in 
 other countries, the women are connived at in this refpedt ; particularly 
 the courtefans, who readily find patrons, under whofe protection they 
 trefpafs againft this fumptuary law with impunity ; though there is fome- 
 times an inftance of one or two being fined on that account. It is pro- 
 bably owing to the great number of perfons who offend againft tliis 
 law that it is not ftriftly put in execution *. 
 
 All the nobili wear black, and the importation of foreign cloth is to- 
 tally prohibited. I have already taken notice of the black lining of the 
 gondola's j but this ordinance is limited to thofe belonging to the city of 
 Vemce : for the Venetian fubjedts on the Terra ferma, or main land, are 
 at full liberty as to this article. 
 Nobili, ez-w- Cajlmir Frejchot has publiflied a particular lifl of the noble families at 
 bdity. Venice. They are divided into four or five claffes. In the firfl clafs 
 
 the following families are ranked, 'viz. ihe Contariniy Morofmi, Badouari, 
 Tiepoli, Micbicli, SaJiudi, Grader/igbi, Mefnmi, Falieri, Dandoli, Po/ani, 
 and Barozzi, who are compared to the twelve apoflles. Ne^t to thefe 
 are reckoned four other families, called the four evangelifts, namely, 
 the Giiijliniani, Cornari, Bragadini, and Bembi. The Contarini and 
 Morofini families are the mod illu.flrious and powerful ; and the former 
 has been fubdivided into mpr.e than. fifty branches. When the republic 
 is at war, a perfon may purchafe a patent of nobility for a round fum of 
 money: however, fuch upfhart families have hitherto been excluded 
 from the chief ports in the republic. As focn as a nobleman has a le- 
 
 * Tacit. Annal. iii. OmitUre poilus preevalida bf adulta v'uia, quam hoc ajjequi, ut pahmfitreiy 
 quibtis fagitiis impares ej/cmtis. ' It is more priideut to overlook fuch faults as prevail and 
 have taken deep root, than publicly to expofe thofe enormities which we are not able to 
 
 ' fupprefs.' 
 
 gitnnate
 
 VENICE. 275 
 
 gitiinate (on born, he canfes his name to be entered in i\\t Lil>ro d'Oro, 
 as it is called, without which circumflance the child cannot be looked 
 upon as of noble extradlion. If a noble Venetian marries a cittadina, or 
 citizen, it proves of no detriment to. his iffue. The cittadini are thofe C;VW;«/. 
 who are defcended from the noble families, which formerly, at the re- 
 formation of the flate, were excluded from having a fliare in the go- 
 vernment ; and among thefe are alfo claffed the rich merchants, lawyers, 
 phylicians, notaries, and the giafs-makers of Murano. If a noblemaii 
 marries a woman of low birth, who is not of the cittadini clafs, the 
 children of fuch a marriage forfeit their nobility. Jt was on this ac- 
 count that Cornaro, one of the procurators of St. Mark, and father of 
 the learned Carnaro, was obliged to fave the forfeiture of nobility, which 
 his children whom he had by his marriage with a gondelier's daughter 
 muft have undergone, by paying a confiderable fine. 
 
 If a nobleman declines an office to which he has been eledled, he is 
 obliged to pay a fine of two thoufand ducats, and is excluded from the 
 great council, and likewife from the Broglio, for the fpace of two years. 
 The 7iobili are not allowed to hold any lands or fiefs on i\\Q Terra fermay 
 but gardens and houfes of pleafure are not included in this prohibition. 
 A noble Venetian who enters into holy orders, is excluded ipfo facio 
 from the great council, and all public employments ; and this law ex- 
 tends even to fuch as are made knights of Malta. None of the nobi- 
 lity muft take prefents, penfions, or receive any order of knighthood 
 from foreign ftates. The relations of fuch Vetjetians as are cardinals, are 
 excluded from all deliberations in the council relating to ecclefiaftical 
 affairs. No one muft congratulate any perfon on his obtaining a poft 
 in the government, except he is promoted to be Doge, ov procurator of 
 St. Mark, nor follicit any judge but in criminal procefles. No perfon 
 enjoys more than one office at the fame time, be it ever fo inconfider- 
 able. In the divifion of hereditary eftates, the eldeft fon of a noble Ve- 
 netia has no advantage over his younger brothers, by which means feve- 
 ral families are reduced to poverty; efpecially as they are not allowed 
 to mend their circumftances by trade or commerce. It is hardly credible 
 what a mean appearance feveral perfons among the nobility make in the 
 ftreets of Venice, by the fhabbinefs of their drefs, &c. Many of them are 
 not able to keep a fervant ; fo that they are obliged to buy their provi- 
 fions even in the market, and carry them home along the public ftreets. 
 When there are feveral brothers in a family^ in order ly prgVent their 
 falling thus into contempt by their poverty, only one of them marries : 
 But by this practice not only the increafe of the nobility is hindered, but 
 likewife a great many fcandalous vices are propagated artiong the reft of 
 the brothers, which are committed at Venice in a iHoft flagrant manner, 
 
 N n 2 with-
 
 .276 ' V-'E NICE. 
 
 ■^^'^''#-"f'/'' without iTiame or concealment. Keeping a miftrefs is looked upon as 
 tiiio-nmo?!. ^^ undoubted privilege belonging to a noble /^i^;.'.'//^/; ; and vvh'in one, 
 by reafon of his poverty, cannot keep a miftrefs for his own ufe alone, 
 he enters into a copartnerilup with three or four other indigent perfons, 
 who all contribute to fupport her, and enjoy her company in their turns. 
 Criminal pleafures nre profecuted with fuch licenticufnefs at Venire, and 
 the confequences arifing from fuch indulgences fo common, that it is 
 thought hardly worth while to apply for a cure ; efpecially as the cli- 
 mnte is fo favourable for fuch diforders. 
 ^iidenefs cf The nobility are far more converfible out of Venice than within the 
 
 ^m7J^ "" "' '-'^y ' ■'°'' ^^""^ ^"^^y ^'^ ^^'^ from concealing the high opinion they have 
 of tlieir own power and rank; which betrays many of them into a rude 
 and unpolite, not to fay indecent behaviour. As for inflance: at opera's 
 and plays they not only throw the rind of oranges and other fruit which 
 they eat J but likewife even fpit from the boxes on fuch as fit below in 
 the pit. For which reafon it is heft for ftrangers, who would avoid 
 being fubjedl to this inconveniency, to fit in the boxes. 
 TieDogt'.' pa ■ The ducal palace was very much damaged by two fires which hap- 
 ^''"- pened in 1573 and 1577, when the lofs, with regard to the fine paint- 
 
 ings, was irretrievable ; but the palace has been repaired, and feveral build- 
 ings, which are furniflied with fine pidtures, have been added to it. 
 Statue 0/ In the court of the palace ftands a marble flatue of Francefco Maria, 
 
 Francefco duke of TJrbino, who was General of the Vejietia?! army in 1 536. It was 
 Ur"ino." ^ ^'^^ by Gio'-camii Bandini, a Flo7-entine fculptor, and vv^as form.erly eredled 
 at Pejaro; but was afterwards fent hither as a memorial of his grandfather 
 hy Francefco Maria II. duke of JJrbino, who died without heirs, and left his 
 efi:ate to the papal fee. Over it are the following words cut in Pictra 
 di paragone, or touch-ftone : 
 
 Francifco Maria I. Urbini Diici 
 Reip. Copiarum imperatori, Pijauri 
 
 EreBa, a Frajicijco Maria II. 
 
 Pojieritatis orbit ate, Venetce pietati 
 
 Commendata 
 
 S C 
 
 M. DC. XXV. 
 
 ' To Francefco Maria I. duke of Urbiiio, general of the forces of the 
 ' republic, this ftatue was firfl: fet up at Pejaro ; but Francefco Maria II, 
 ' leaving no iffue behind him, recommended this monument of his 
 ' illuflrious father to the care of the Venetian fenate, who eredted it in this 
 ' place in the year 1625.' 
 
 5 Not
 
 ^F^E NICE. 277 
 
 Not far from hence, towards Si. Mark\ church, are the marhlc {\.z-Sia!uei of A- 
 X\\(ts oi ylclnm and £i't', hy Andrea Riccio oiPcidiia; and over-againft ^™ '"''^ '"''' 
 ihefe, on the fteps leading up to the palace, arc Mars and Neptune, by 
 S(Uifovino. Both thefe liatues arc by the vulgar called Giants, and are a 
 great ornament to the Pen on, on each fide of which is alfo a bafket, full 
 of huit, cut in tine marble. Hard by in the gallery which goes round 
 three fides of the palace, is the following infcription, being a monument 
 :to the memory o^ Henry III. King oi France, in red letters on gilt 
 brafs. 
 
 Monument of 
 
 a!'i 
 
 Henricm III. Galli^e Rex & I. Polonia Chriftianijj'. accepto de immatura ^^^^^Tn 
 iroli Va.. Gallic^ Regis, fratrh conjun5li[Jwn, morte triJU imncio, e Polo- Ki>,.-'.r 
 nia in Franc i am ad ineimdum Regnum hareditarium proper ans, Veneiias^'^'^^'^'-^- 
 Anno Sahit. MDLXXIV. XIIII. Calend. Augujl. acceffit, atqiie ab Aloy- 
 Jio. Mocenigo SereniJJ] Venetorum Principe, & omnibus hujicfce Reipiibl. Or- 
 dinibus, non modo propter 'veteris amicitife necejjitudinem, veriim etiani oh 
 fingularem de ipjius eximia virtute atque animi magnitudine opinionem, mag- 
 nificetitij]'. poji hominum memoriam apparatu, atque alacri Italics prope uni- 
 iierfce, fummornmque Principiim prccjertim, conciirfu exceptns efl. Ad cujus 
 rei gratique Regis animi erga banc Rempuhl. memoriam jempiternam, Sena- 
 tus hoc monwnentum fieri curavit. Arnohlo Ferrerio Secretioris Conjilii 
 participe, Regio aptid Remp. Legato id etiam pojhdante. 
 
 ' Henry the moft chriftian King, of France the third, and of Poland, 
 
 ' the firft of that name, who upon receiving the melancholy news of the 
 
 ' untimely death of C/6^r/fj IX. King of France, his mofl dear brother, 
 
 ' in his iourney from Poland to France to take upon him his hereditary 
 
 ' kingdom, came to Venice on the 19th day of July 1574; where he 
 
 ' was received by Aloyfi Mocenigo the moft ferene Doge of Venice and alt 
 
 ' the orders of this republic with the greateft fplendor and magnificence 
 
 ' known in the memory of man, amidft the joyful acclamations of al- 
 
 ' mofl all Italy, and efpecially its moft illuftrious princes, who reforted 
 
 * to this city. The fenate eredled this monument as a laffing memorial 
 
 ' of this tranfadfion, and the great efteem which that monarch exprefTed 
 
 ' towards this republic, ^c! 
 
 The Scala Aurea, or golden flair-cafe, is decorated with flucco-work Scala Aurea. 
 and fine paintings. A great number of the latter are to be ftzn in the P^'"''"g^ '« 
 apartments, for the mofl part reprefenting the noble exploits of the Ve- 
 netians, or the happinefs of their government. The painters Giovanni 
 Contarino, Carletto Calliari, Marco I'itiano, Domenico 'Tintoretto, Paolo 
 Veronefe, Giacomo Pahna, Civetta, Girclam BaJ/i, Francejco BaJJano, 
 
 Albert
 
 278 VENICE. 
 
 Albert Durer, and other celebrated painters have here given adrt^i?abie 
 
 fpecimens of their ikill. 
 
 7he Sala ili In the middle of the cieling of the Sa!a del Conjiglio di Pregadi, 
 
 Piegadi. the republic of Venice is reprefcnted above the clouds and furrounded 
 
 with a multitude of gods, while the 'Tritons and Nereids, at Mercury s 
 
 command, bring ihells, coral, pearls, &c. and prefent them to lier as the 
 
 queen of the fea. This is one of Tintoretto & beft pieces. But here I 
 
 muft not omit another piece of painting by the fame mafter in one of the 
 
 Jupiter wVi a apartments, which exhibits Jupiter with feveral other gods con- 
 
 nimbus,o;-^/3;>'j^ijCj.jj p^enice, in order to lav the foundation of its pov/er and grandeur 
 
 round hii head. . , ° ^ , . • ,- . 1 • 1 1 • n 1 • 1 ^ r ^ 1 
 
 m the Adriatic lea ; in which the artilt has given the god fuch a glory 
 round his head, as is ufually painted round that of our Saviour. I am 
 very fenlible that the ancient Pagans ufed to adorn the heads of their 
 gods with fuch a 7iimbus, or glory ; but in modern times it is fomething 
 uncommon to diftinguilli any other figures, but that of Chrijl or the 
 Saints, with this ornament. 
 jccouni of Tintoretto % proper name was Giacomo Robujli ; but he is commonly 
 '^'"^°'^^"° '■'^^ called T/ff^or^Z/o, becaufe his father was a dyer Cm Italian Tintore) by 
 trade. His daughter Maria Tintoretta painted good portraits, and, ac- 
 cording to Te Comte, married a German of fortune. 
 Afiawe In Over the door leading to the Capella del Pregadi, is a reprefentation 
 the chapel. ^^ jj^g ^^^j j^^jy q£- (^/p^-^y/ painted by Tintoretto ; and in the church is to 
 be feen a piece of painting of our Saviour converfing with the two dif- 
 Faults in a ciplcs at Emaus, by Titian. This piece, indeed, is finely executed ; but 
 Titianf " ^ queftion whether any intelligent perfon will think that the following 
 circumftances are introduced in it with propriety, viz. one of the difciples 
 in a pilgrim's habit with a rofary, the innkeeper's nofegay, the fpread-eagle 
 on the tapeftry of the room, the wine-glafs and the coarfe bread on the 
 table ; and laflly, a dog fnarling at a cat under the table. 
 Some account Titiano VeccclH, the celebrated painter, was defcended from a noble 
 of him. family though in mean circ'umftances, and was born at Cadore (in Latin 
 
 Cadtibriuni) fituated on the banks of the river Piave in 1477, ^"^ '^'^^ 
 zx. Venice of the plague in the year 1576, and the ninety-fixth of his 
 age. He was of a very jealous difpofition, as appears from the follow- 
 ing inflance. He diflliaded his younger brother, Francefco, from apply- 
 ing himfelf to painting, and put him to a cabinet-maker, merely becaufe 
 he obferved that the young man had fuch a genius for painting, that if 
 he had continued his application to that art, he would at leafl: have 
 equalled, if not furpafied Titian. To the fame motive his difcharging 
 Tintoretto, who was one of his difciples, is attributed. 
 fhe Sala del The Sala del Gran Con/iglio, is . fcventy-three feet in breadth and a 
 ^o'ho ^°'^' ^""""^^^^ ^"<^ fi% 'n length. Paolo CalUari, Leonardo Bajfani, Francefco 
 
 3 Bqljhn»,
 
 VENICE. 279 
 
 Baffano-, 'Tintoretto^ Aiidrea Vicentino, Paolo Fiamingo, Palma, Federico 
 Zuccaro, Girolariio Giiinbarato, Giulio dal Moro, and other celebrated 
 painters have in I'everal pieces reprefented the tranfadtions between pope 
 Alexander III. and the republic of VeJiice, Among the reft is a pidiure of 
 the fcandalous humiliation of Frederic Barbarofja, who lays his n^ck Pi^iure 0/ the 
 under the Pope's foot *, This pidure refembles that which is to ht^"^'"'-^"'." "f 
 feen in the Vatican at Rome, only the latter is much larger than the for- tre pill. 
 mer. In the fame hall are alfo a great many pieces reprefenting other 
 famous atchievments of the Fatetians, which are explained by infcrip- 
 tions underneath. 
 
 Before this palace was damaged by fire in 1577, feveral pieces painted 
 by the two brothers, Giovajvii and Gentile Bellini, were to be feen in 
 the Sala del Gran Conjiglio and La Jala dello Scrutinio. The fame artifts 
 were alfo employed in painting the hiftory of pope Alexander the third's 
 tranfaftions with the republic, in the Sala del Gran ConfigUo. 
 
 Gentile was fent by the republic to the Grand Signior at the requeft ^..,t,^;/ ^ ,/^, 
 of the latter, and was well received at Conftantinople. Among other /«'■«^7.' Gio- 
 pieces he there painted the decollation of John the Baptijl. But the Q^^ixlT^d- 
 Sultan, in order to convince him that the neck of the Baptijl was not lini. 
 properly reprefented, fent for a flave, and ordered his head to be ftruck 
 off in the prefence of Gentile, to convince him of his miftake. This aft 
 of barbarity made the painter apprehenfive for his own fafety j fo that 
 he did not care to continue any longer in fuch a country, but returned 
 again to Venice, where he died in 1501, in the eightieth year of his 
 age. His brother Giovanni Bellini lived ninety years, and died in 
 1510+. 
 
 The celeftial glory over the Doge's feat in the Sala del Gran Conjiglio, Fine paintings 
 by Tintoretto, is looked upon as an admirable piece. It is painted upon h Tintoretto. 
 a piece of canvas, which is feventy feet by thirty. The fineft piece among 
 all the paintings in this palace is, the taking of the fortrefs Zara in the 
 Sala dello Scrutinio, by which Tintoretto has perpetuated his fame. In 
 the fame hall is to be feen the laft judgment, exquifitely painted by 
 Palma. 
 
 In this palace is a fmall arfenal to furnifli arms upon any fudden 'n\(ur- Tie- tirfinal of 
 redlion of the people. Befides the ufual weapons, with which a vaft num-'''''^ ikcal pa^ 
 ber of chefts are filled, here are fome uncommon inftruments of deftruc- "'^' 
 tion with which Francejco Carrara, the lafl poffefTor of Padua (who by 
 order of the Venetian council was ftrangled) uled to take off his enemies 
 
 This is a farther proof of the emperor's mean fubmiflion, though the author calls it 3 
 fabulous ftory. 
 
 t Le Comic z Cdhict dcs Slngidaritti d'Arckiteclure, Pdniure, Sculpture f?" Gvavcure, 
 Tom. ii. 
 
 in
 
 28o VENICE. 
 
 in a clandeftine manner, and fome Cauflra caftitatis by which he fecured 
 the fidelity of his mifcrefTes ; 5'(:fl«/«rZ'^^'s dagger ; a machine by whicli 
 five hundred lamps may be Hghte 1 at once; and two little ftatues of 
 Adam and Eve, cut with a knife in an uncommon kind of wood, by 
 Albert Durer during his confinement, for which he was rewarded u'lth 
 his liberty. Here is alfo a moft curious lantern of rock cryftai, for which 
 a yearly penfion of four hundred ducats was ordered to the inventor and 
 his heirs to the fourth generation. When the great council fits, the key 
 of this arfenal is laid before the Doge, or in his abfence, before the fe- 
 nior counfellor. 
 
 On one fide of die palace over againft the canal called Rio di Palazzo, 
 
 is a kind of dungeon or prifon, ftrongly fecured with iron grates. The 
 
 bridge over which the prifoners are carried from this dungeon to the 
 
 Pontede'Sof- palace in order to be tried, is called Ponte de" Sofpiri, i. e. ' the bridge 
 
 ' of fighs. 
 Tj^^Broglio. The lower gallery of the palace, on the fide oppofite to St. Mark'^ 
 Place, together with the hall under the new Procuratie, over-againft it, 
 is cViW^A Broglio. This name is derived froni tht Gi-eek word tt f(,3o>.«i:t, 
 which fig nifies a place enclofed with a wall. Hence came the Latin 
 wotAperibclium, and in the middle ages hrirAium and broHitm, which are 
 to be met with in feveral authors, and particularly in Liiitpro.ndinz em- 
 baffy to Nicephorus *. 
 
 Thefe galleries ferve the F'^w^/w'z nobility to walk in at certain hours 
 of the day, there being but little conveniency for walking in this city. 
 According as the fun fnines, the nobility remove to the fliade from one 
 fide of the piazza to the other; and on the pavement of St. Mark's place, 
 over-againfl the market, is a line of white ftones to mark out the bounds 
 of the Broglio; where no Venetian, unlefs he be noble, dares walk while 
 the Nobili are prefent. With refped to {^rangers, indeed, they are not io 
 ftridl ; but a prudent foreigner would forbear to appear on the Broglio at 
 fuch times, as the noble Venetians are not pleafed when {grangers mix 
 with them in this place. For while they walk on t\\p Broglio, they ge- 
 nerally converfe about flate affairs, and form parties for obtaining pub- 
 Origin of the Hc employments, &c. Hence the phrafes far broglio, znA patire i I broglio 
 'vjorjs brogii- are particularly applied to a man who is ambitious and alpires to public 
 \Tr', brigue, pofts. Probably alfo the Italian words brogliare, imbrogliare, imbroglio, 
 is'c. ' and the French broiiiller, broiiillonerie, broiiillons, &c. are derived from 
 
 * See Otto Morena Hiflor. rerim LauiJenfnm, f. i8, 84. BenediBus lovius in Hiftoria 
 NovDCOmenfi. Fenaiius Epiji. p. 129. Chart. Odobki Archiep. in append, ad Flodoard. Brut 
 or Bryl, alfo in the old German language, fignifies an indofed place, or park. 
 
 the
 
 VENICE. 281 
 
 the buftle, cabals, and intrigues which are commonly carried on in this 
 place. 
 
 A nobleman, who is excluded from the great council, muft not appear 
 on the Broglio. 
 
 The piazza di S. Marco, or St. Mark's place is the greateft ornament St. Mark"; 
 of the city. It is a large area; and the ihorteft fide of it extends the Z''''*'^'- 
 length of the ducal palace, and from thence fouthward for two hundred 
 and forty paces, as far as the canal. The fineft part of this area is that 
 between the churches of St. Mark and St. Gemin'iano ; where it is about 
 fix hundred and eighty feet, or two hundred and feventy-four common 
 paces, in length. The breadth is not uniform, being, near St. Mark's 
 church, a hundred and twenty-fix common paces exclufive of the colo- 
 nade ; but lower down, near St. Geminiano, It is but eighty-nine paces 
 broad. 
 
 The mofl; confiderable buildings in St. Mark's place, befides the ducal 
 palace and the two churches above mentioned, are called Prociiratie, Procuratie. 
 where the Procurators of St. Mark refide. They are divided into old and 
 new. The Procuratie vecchic are on the right hand, when viewed from 
 the main entrance to St. Mark's church, and extend to that of St. Gemi- 
 ni am ; and the Procuratie nove take up the other fide on the left hand. 
 
 Before St. Mark's church three large poles like the mafi:s of a Hiip are 
 eredted on brafs pedeftals of curious workmanfliip. On thefe, filk co- 
 lours with the arms of the republic are hoifi:ed on public days and holy- 
 days. That which ftands in the middle is the oldefl -, and the other two 
 were firft put up in 1505. Thefe are faid to be emblenis of the liberty 
 of the republic ; but the number three particularly alludes to the ftates of 
 Cafidia, Cyprus, and Fcnice, or as fome will have it, the Morea. How- 
 ever no difference is to be feen in the colours. 
 
 Near St. Mark's church and on the Procuratie vecchie fide, is a tower Acurious c/tti. 
 with a curious clock ; which not only points out the hours and their fubdi- 
 vifions, but likewife exhibits the Cigns of the Zodiac, with the courfe of the 
 fun and moon. On certain fefiivals, and efpecially every hour while afcen- 
 fionfair lafts, theftatues of an angel and the three eaftern Magi make their 
 appearance on this clock, and, in paffmgby the image of the Virgin, pay 
 their adoration by bowing their heads. This piece of clock-work re- 
 fembles that at Macerata ; but the images in the former are larger. On 
 the fpire of this tower are the images of two Moors, of brafs, who firike 
 the hours with hammers on a large bell. 
 
 Oppofite to this, on the fide where the Procuratie nove ftand, is a lofty Another tmvtr. 
 quadrangular tower three hundred and eighteen feet in height. The 
 afcent to the top of this tower is by fteps, but fo contrived that a per- 
 fon may ride up and down on horfebackj whicii Augujlus King ol Poland 
 
 Vol, hi. O o once
 
 2^2 VENICE. 
 
 once did without meeting with any accident. On the top of it is a 
 fpire with an angel fixteen feet high, cut in wood and gilt, inflead of a 
 weather-cock or vane ; fo that the height of the whole is three hundred 
 and thirty-four feet. This tower has a gallery which is quite open 
 above, and yields a very fine profpeft. While the gilding of the fpire is 
 bright, it may be feen at fea upwards of thirty Italian miles off: Nay, 
 fome give out, that in clear weather, and when the gilding was quite 
 frefh, it could be plainly difcerned off Capo dijiria, at the diftance of an 
 hundred miles from Venice. What Sabelli farther fays, namely, that the 
 foundation of this tower is laid as deep in the earth as it is high above 
 the furface of it, may doubtlefs be looked upon as one of thofe gafco- 
 nades which arc not at all uncommon among the Venetians. 
 
 lovetta. The. Logetta, or fmall ftone building, where fome of the procurators 
 
 of St. Mark together with feveral armed men keep guard, while the 
 great council is fitting, flands at the foot of this tower. The front of it 
 is adorned with curious pieces of fculpture in marble, by the celebrated 
 Sanhvino. 
 
 Tht lihran. Over againft the ducal palace flands the public library of the com- 
 mon-wealth. The poet Petrarch firft begun this coUeftion *, and in 
 TomaJini\ Petrarcha redivivits, cap. xiii. />. 85, is to be feen a catalogue 
 of the books which Petrarch bequeathed to the republic of Venice. After 
 him cardinal Befarion, by his laft will, added his curious colledion of 
 Greek manufcripts, which he had made in Conjiantinople and Greece, to 
 this library. 
 
 The cardinals Niceno, Aleandro., and Gramini have likewile made 
 great additions to this library ; which, however, is not kept in the beft 
 order. 
 
 P«intwzs. The paintings by Titian and other celebrated maflers, together with 
 
 feveral antiquities and Greek marble flatues in this library, deferve parti- 
 cular notice. Among the latter, the moft curious is the rape of Gany- 
 mede by Jupiter in the fhape of an eagle, which fome take to be the 
 work oi Phidias. K Venus, an Apollo, two gladiators, Leda., Paris, and 
 feveral bufto's of the Roman emperors are alfo exquifitely done. The me- 
 mory of the donors of thefe rare ftatues is preferved in the following in- 
 fcription, over the door of one of the apartments adjoining to tl'te 
 library. 
 
 ^igna marmorea perantiqua, olim a T)cminico Cardinale Grima770, Ant. 
 Principis F. & pojiea a Joanne Patriar. Aquilejenfi ejufdem Principis Ne- 
 
 * Petrarch gave his colle£tion of books to the republic of Venice by an inftrument dated 
 Sepumber ^, 1362, upon condition that a decent cdiRce fhould be built for the reception 
 of them at the public expence. 
 
 I , pote.
 
 VENICE, 283 
 
 poU, Pafquale Ciconea Duce, magna ex parte Keipiiblica legata, parthn 
 verb Marino Grimano Pri?icipe, li Friderico Contarcno Divi Marci Pro- 
 curaf. ad abjoliitum ornatnentum fuppleta, idem Federicus ex Senatus Con- 
 fulto hoc in loco rcponenda curavit, Anno Domini M. D. XCVII. 
 
 Farther on in the library is a white marble bufto fupported by two an- 
 gels with this infcription : 
 
 Siheftro 
 
 Valeria 
 
 Prificipiy 
 
 Principis filio 
 
 Prcefidiy 
 
 'tutclari BenefaBoriy 
 
 Annuente Senatti 
 
 Anno Domini 
 
 MDCCL 
 
 * To Sihejler Valeri, Doge (whofe father was likewife Doge) prefi* 
 '• dent, and tutelary benefador, with the confent of the fenate, 1701.' 
 
 Among the portraits of the philofophers painted on the walls of the 
 library, that of Diogenes by Tintoretto deferves particular notice. 
 
 On each fide of the principal entrance of this edifice, inftead of a pi- 
 lafler or pillar, is a marble llatue of a female, done by AleJJandro Vit- 
 ttjvia ; and thefe ftatues lupport the ornaments above. 
 
 Between the two galleries or walks of the Broglio, near the fide of the puian rfgra- 
 canal, are two large granate pillars, which were brought hither from "'"''• 
 Conftantinople in the year 1192, when the Venetians made themfelves 
 mafters of that city under the command oi Sebajliano Ziani their Doge> 
 Three of thefe pillars were brought to Venice ; but one of them in un- 
 lading fell into the canal, and funk fo deep in the mud, that it was 
 never afterwards found. Nicolo Barattiero, a native of Low^^^r^v, ereded 
 the two remaining pillars, after they had lain a whole year upon the 
 ground, for which he was well rewarded. On the pillar that flands 
 next to the ducal palace is a brafs lion, being St. Mark's fymbol, with 
 its head towards the eaft, as an emblem of the republic's dominion 
 over feveral places in the Levant. On the other pillar ftands a marble 
 ftatue of St. Theodore., or, as others will have it, of St. George, who holds 
 his fliield in the right-hand -, which either proceeds from the fculptor's 
 miltake, or perhaps it was copied from an intaglio. But the Venetians 
 pretend it was done defignedly to exprefs the jufliice of the republic, 
 
 O o 2 which,
 
 284 VENICE. 
 
 which, fay they, aims only at defending itfelf without doing any hurt 
 or iniury to other powers. 
 Thephacf All inalefadlors are executed between thefe two pillars. A noble Ve- 
 txuutian for netiait would not pafs this way upon any terms. For when the Doge 
 "Avrjfd'l Marino Falieri (who in 1354 was beheaded for treafon againft the ftate) 
 ihe Luity. came to Venice after his eledtion, he was obliged to land between thefe 
 pillars, becaufe the water was remarkably high. On the canal, oppofite 
 to thefe pillars, a galley completely rigged and armed is kept in readl- 
 nefs for any fudden exigency. 
 Zicc3.crmini. The 7.ccca or mint lies behind the Frocuralie nove, and near it flands 
 the ftatues of two giants, in a threatening attitude : One of them is the 
 work oi Titiano Ajpetti, and the other of G/;V^«o Campagna. 
 
 From ihcltalian word Zccca, the Zecchino, a gold coin, derives its name, 
 which goes for a lira more than a Gentian ducat, though both as to weight 
 and flandard, the latter exceeds the former*. This coin is over- valued, 
 in order to prevent the exportation of the Zecchini, or at leafl: to induce 
 flrangers to fend mofl: of them back to the Venetian dominions. The 
 Origin of the word Zeccha feems to be originally derived from Cyxicus, which city, 
 Huords Zecca jp ancient times, was celebrated for the beautiful coin ftruck there. One 
 ^ " of the fmalleft pieces of money at Ve?uce is called Gazzetta ; and as the 
 literary news-papers -j-, which were publifhed at Venice in fingle fheets, 
 fo e.irly as the fixteenth century, were fold for a Gazzetta a piece, all 
 kinds of news-papers were from thence called Gazzette, or Gazzets. 
 K1V1 in Ve- At prefent no political news-paper is allowed to be publifhed at Ve- 
 «'*'^"^- nice, but by thofe who are appointed by the ftate to colleft an account of 
 
 occurrences, &c. Thefe intelligencers dictate the feveral articles they 
 have colleded to thirty or forty writers at once. 
 p;,3ura in the In the apartments over the mint, which is all arched with ftone, are 
 rotms <yver the fevcral fine picccs of painting by Palma, T'intoretto, Marco Titiano, Be- 
 ^"^' nedetto Diana, and Poller. 
 
 The great The great arfenal ftands in another part of the city ; and the expence 
 
 4>-fenai. of feeing it is about four-and-thirty Lire J. Sometimes thofe who prefide 
 over the arfenal are very fufpiclous ; and a few years fince they walled up 
 two windows of the Francifcan convent adjoining to the tower; having 
 been informed that two Frenchmen had, by the help of atelefcope, taken 
 from thence an exad: view of the arfenal. The different accounts given 
 by travellers of this affair, depends in a great meafure on the temper of 
 tlie perfons who attend foreigners. One of our company afked a perfon 
 
 * Its value is 9 J. 2 d. flerling. 
 
 t See Cimmfi's Idea della Storia ddl' Italiii Letterata, publifhed in 1723, at Naples^ in 
 quarto. 1; About i8 s. 4 d. 
 
 who
 
 (VENICE, 2«5 
 
 who fliewed the arfcnal, whether we might write down minutes of 
 what we obferved there ; which was readily granted us. 
 
 This famous armory, which is two Italian miles and a half in cir- 
 cumference, is entirely furrounded with water, and fortified with raro- 
 parts, and twelve towers. Facing the main entrance, a fniall marble 
 llonj with the following infcription under it, is erected near the canal. 
 
 Ex Atficis. i. e. ' From Attica' 
 
 On one fide of this is a lionefs couchant, with thefe words under it; 
 
 Anno Corcyra liberata. 
 
 * In the year when Corfu was delivered from flavery.' 
 
 Farther on is a large lion couchant, with this infcription : 
 
 Athcnienfm Veneta Clajfis Trophcea 
 
 Veneti Senatus Decreto 
 
 In Navalis veftibulo conjlituta 
 
 Anno Salut. MDCLXXXFIL 
 
 ' The trophies which the Venetian fleet brought from Athens, erected 
 
 * by a decree of the fenate before the arfenal, in the year 1687.' 
 
 .On a tower of the arfenal on the fame fide is the following infcrip- ■^«a'^'>'«'« ^» 
 tion : 
 
 Senatus Confuh 
 
 Eodem tempore navibus egreffum 
 
 & dominium ampliavit \ 
 
 Sic faujlce plurima regna 
 
 Patrice reftituit 
 
 M. Antonio Ju/iiniano Duce, 
 
 Andrea Valeria Paulo, Jujlo Lolino, Jo. Ant, 
 
 Riizzitio, Anton. Canati, Nicol. Duodo & 
 
 Georgio Cornelio 
 
 Navalis armentarii PrafeSlis 
 
 Atmo Sal. MDCXXCVI. Fa:d IIL 
 
 ' By order of the fenate, this harbour and the dominions of the re- 
 
 * public were enlarged, and many kingdoms happily reflored to their 
 
 * mother country, &c. in the year 16S6J 
 
 Over
 
 286 VENICE. 
 
 Over the entrance are thefe words under a marble lion ; 
 
 Vi SI or ice Navalis Monument. 1 1 57. 
 
 * In memory of a naval vidtory gained in r 1 57.' 
 
 a liott!"' ^"^ the left-fide of the entrance is to be feen a large lion couchant, 
 
 likewife of marblcj with the following infcription : 
 
 Francifcus Maurocenus Peloponefiacus 
 
 Expugnatis AtheJiis 
 
 Marmorea Leonum fimulacra 
 
 'Triwnphali jnanii e Pirao direpta 
 
 In Patriam travftulit, jutura Veneti Leonis 
 
 ^a fuerant Minerva Atticce monumenta. 
 
 * Francijcm Maurocenus, a native of the Morea, after taking the city 
 * of Athens by ilorm, tranfported into his own country thefe marble 
 ' lions, which he took as trophies of his vidlory from the Piraeus ; that 
 ' thefe monuments of the Athenian Minerva might for the future be 
 ' dedicated to the Venetian lion.' 
 
 At the gate, every perfon, on entering the arfenal, leaves his fword, 
 which is returned to him at coming out. 
 Monument of Within the area of the arfenal over the door of a building full of 
 count Konigf- arms is the marble bufto of count Konigfmark, with the following in- 
 
 mark, r • .-• 
 
 Icription : 
 
 Ottoni Wilhelmo Comiti a Konigfmark, 
 
 Suprema terreflrium copiarum contra T!urcas PrcefeSiurd 
 
 Semper ViSlori 
 
 MDCLXXXl^lII. 
 
 s. c. 
 
 ' To Otho William count Konigfmark, chief commander of the land 
 * forces againft the Turks, who was always victorious, this bufl was 
 ' erected by the fenate in 1688.' 
 
 Apartments This cdifice is divided into four large rooms, two of which are in the 
 
 for the arms, lowcr, and two in the upper flory. The arms are difpofed in long walks, 
 
 %lli>hiei which are ornamented with the fuits of armour wore by Scanderbeg, 
 
 MGCcnigo;Francefco Morojini, Ziani, Giuftiniani, Caflrani, and other illuf- 
 
 trious warriors, by way of trophies. Over that of Morofint% hang four 
 
 fmall red caps, to fliew that he had been four times commander in chief. 
 
 In
 
 VENICE, 2S7 
 
 In the left-hand he holds a blue furtout, which was fent him as a pre- 
 fent from the Pope. Attild% helmet, the iron head- piece wore by Col- 
 leonius% horfe, and feveral forts of arms taken from the Turks^ are like- 
 wife to be feen here. 
 
 In the vault underneath is a large veffel filled with wine four times a ^'^''"^ gii"* 
 day, out of which every workman in the arfenal (who are above a thou- 'day''i/lth7 
 fand in all) may drink as often, and as much, as he pleafes. Towards «r>w. 
 the bottom of this vefTel are feveral cocks to draw the wine, which, it 
 mufl be fuppofed, is not extraordinary good ; befides, it is generally diluted 
 with two thirds of water : for there is a fine fpring of good water on the 
 ifland where the arfenal is built. 
 
 In the iron-magazine are all kinds of large nails, &c. which zvq The inn ma- 
 ftamped with a particular mark, and whoever fleals or buys one of thefe •^"~""^" 
 nails is condemned for five years to the galleys. 
 
 In the magazine for oars is preferved the fine chair, in which the 
 Doge, after his eledlion, is carried about by forty men, and throws mo- 
 ney among the populace. 
 
 The length of the rope-walk is faid to be two hundred geometri- Therofe-'walk. 
 cal paces ; and I found it to be four hundred add forty-four common 
 paces. On each fide of it is a gallery, fupported by forty-three brick 
 pilafters. It is pretended that the ropes which are kept here among 
 the naval ftores are worth two millions of Ducati iArgento *. 
 
 The falt-petre works deferve a traveller's notice. Since the fire which l"^'J^''^' 
 happened in 1569, the gun-powder has not been kept in the arfenal, 
 but in large quadrangular towers, which are detached from it. 
 
 Here are twelve magazines full of cannon-balls, and others filled °'*"' ''"'•?*' 
 with pitch, hemp, fail-cloth, &c. In one large room feveral old wo- "'""' 
 men are employed in making and repairing fails. 
 
 A hundred men are daily employed in the forges, of which there are Forges. 
 twelve continually going. 
 
 In one magazine are five hundred large iron cannon, befides a great ^<:aiy canncn. 
 nuniber piled in the open air. 
 
 In the foundery none but brafs guns are caft. When Henry III. Foundery. 
 king of France dined in the arfenal, a large cannon was cafl while he 
 fat at table ; and when the prefent king of Denmark was at Venice, two 
 great guns, two culverines, and as many mortars were cafl, and one of 
 each fort was afterwards fent to Denmark. In 1729, a fire happened in ^•''' '" ^~-9- 
 the arfenal, by which two hundred culverines, arms for ten thoufand 
 horfe, together with rigging for twelve galeafi^es, and fifteen gallics 
 were entirely confumed. At the fmie time one of the culverines cafl: in 
 the prefence of the king of Denmark, and the fine gun caft in honour 
 * A filver ducat is about 3.(. 4</. fterling. 
 
 of
 
 Mtmoriah 
 a vi'lory O' 
 the Turks, 
 Venetian 
 
 T.ai'jf. 
 
 ■ 88 VENICE, 
 
 - ofH^wvlII. o? France received fome damage. The republic's foun- 
 deries for iron guns, (3c. are at Brejcia and Bergamo. In order to make 
 up the lofs they fuftained by the late fire, they are now proving forty 
 thoufand mufkets, and as many piftols, lately purchafed. I cannot fay 
 that the arms here are kept very bright; but the rufl which appears on 
 them is probably owing to the dampnefs of the place, and the faline 
 exhalations from the fea, 
 of The heads of fix TurkiJIi galleys are preferved here under cover, as a 
 ■■''' trophy of fo many vefi'els taken at one time by Morofmi. 
 
 The number of the republic's galleys at prefent is fifty, twenty-five 
 of which are at fea, and the reft almoft ready to quit the harbour. 
 They have alfo four-and-tv/enty fhips of war on the flocks, the largeft 
 of which is to carry feventv or eighty guns. There is a flied built for 
 every galley and man of war, where they lie unrigged under cover, and 
 may be kept without receiving any damage fifty or fixty years. From 
 thefe flieds they are launched into the deep canals, of which there are 
 three in the arfenal. At Rochefort, where the king of France has an 
 excellent dock-yard, the men of war are built and rigged in a deep 
 dry dock, and then the water is let into it from a large canal, in order 
 to fet them a-float, and carry them out of the dock. The fame curious 
 contrivance is to be feen in the royal yard at Chatham., and alfo along 
 the 'Fhames, and fome other places, in England. But thefe dry docks 
 have no covering, as the fliips are not kept in them for any confiderable 
 Gaimpfi. time. Befides the five-and-twenty galleys above-mentioned, four gale2fi"es 
 and four bomb-galiots lie ready rigged in the Venetian arfenal ; and they 
 have two galeafl'es always out at fea. A galeazza, or galeafs is a large 
 low-built galley with three marts, and carries fails; befides which, it 
 has from thirty to fifty oars, and fix or feven hands to every oar. Over 
 the rowers is a deck for guns. Towards the head of the veffel are three 
 tires of guns, the uppermoft tire confifting of ten pounders, and the 
 other two of twenty-four pounders. Towards the ftern it has but two 
 tires of eighteen pounders *. The whole complement of guns in a 
 galeafs generally amounts to forty cannons, and fix culverines. The 
 latter are faid to carry a ball fix Italian miles. The full complement of 
 men in a large galeafs is near twelve hundred, rowers included. 
 
 Formerly fuch a vefiel had orders not to ftrike to twenty-five Turkifo 
 galleys ; and the captain, who is always a noble Venetian., was fworn to 
 obferve this order ; but things are now altered, and of late the Turkijli 
 iVavy is become more tormidable than it was a century ago. 
 
 * See the ancient and modern ftate of Dalmaiia in High-Duuh, printed at Kurtnherg in 
 1718, 
 
 A gal-
 
 VENICE, 289 
 
 A galley has a much flatter bottom than a galeafs, and carries but Gaikyt, 
 two marts, with about twenty-five or thirty oars on each fide, and five 
 •or fix galley-flaves to every oar. It generally mounts but five guns, the 
 largefl of which is placed at the prow, and carries a ball weighing from 
 thirty to forty pounds. Thefe vefTels go very fwift ; but are not fit for 
 bad weather, on which account they feldom go far from (hore. The 
 Venetians pretend that their galleys exceed all others, becaufe they are 
 double timbered. The galliots are ftill fmaller than the galleys, and ^xcGaHhts. 
 chiefly ufed as tranfports ; fifty of thefe are always kept ready in the ar- 
 fenal, together with four advice-boats, fome of which are continually at fea. Advice-boats. 
 As it is of great confequence to the republic to have a fuflicient quantity 
 of timber always ready for fliip-building, the trunks of ten thoufand Timber. 
 large trees (of which about a thoufand are required for building a fhip) 
 are kept here in the water for that purpofe. Among other ways for try- Proo/o/good 
 ing the goodnefs of the timber after a tree is felled, the following me- timher. 
 thod is pradifed : One perfon applies his ear to the center of one end of 
 the trunk, while another with a key hits the other end with a gentle 
 ftroke ; if the tree be found and good, the ftroke will be di{lind:ly 
 heard at the other end, though the tree fliould be a hundred feet or 
 more in length. 
 
 I have already given an account of the Bucentoro, or the vefl^el in 
 which the Doge goes to fea. 
 
 Whether this arfenal can furniHi arms for ten thoufand horfe, and a 
 hundred thoufand foot, and fit out ten galeafles, fixty men of war, and a 
 hundred galleys, as fome pretend, is a point I muft leave undecided. 
 
 The annual charge of the whole work is faid to amount to five \\n'c\- Nearly charge 
 dred thoufand ducats, which unqueftionably muft be underftood q^"/ '^^ "v^''"'^- 
 diicatc d' Aj-gmto^ each of which goes for feven lire and a half*. It is 
 under the diredlion of three of the nobles, who are called Patrone d' Ar- 
 fenale, who continue but three years in their office. Under the Pati-one 
 are three Proveditori, who appoint oflicers and artificers, and make the 
 neceflary payments ; the artificers and labourers are paid their full 
 wages every Saturday night, without any dedudions. 
 
 In time of war the number of workmen in the arfenal is increafed Ammiraglio 
 to two or three thoufand. Thefe are under the direction of the '^*^' ^'■^'^"*''^- 
 Ammiraglio del Arfaiak, who commands the Buccntoro on Af- 
 cenfion-day ; and, during the election of a Doge, guards the ducal 
 palace with a party of arfenalotti, or the arfenal-watch. The failors 
 with which the Venetian fleet is manned are mortly natives of 
 Italy. The republic is very cautious in accuftoming its fubjedls to miJi- 
 tary exercifes, being confcious that the fevere opprefTions of the Great fo 
 ♦ About three iliillings and four-pence. 
 
 Vol. III. P p embitter
 
 290 VENICE, 
 
 embitter the minds of the people, that they have no great love for their 
 
 fuperiors. On this account the government think it the fafeft way to 
 
 deprive the people of the means which might induce them to fhake off 
 
 Toreign troofs. the yoke. Their wars with the Turks are chiefly carried on by foreign 
 
 troops, which they hire from the Germati princes. 
 Capitaneoge- The Capitaneo Gneralc is at the head of the republic's naval force. He 
 nerale. jg ^jways one of the principal nobles, and has under him the Proved!- 
 
 tore Generale di Marc, and other great officers. The land forces, as 
 foon as they are debarqued, are under the command of the Field- 
 marfhal, or Generale di Sbarco, who is generally fome foreigner of di- 
 ftindlion. Accordingly that high pofl is at prefent filled by count ScJm- 
 lemburg. The fenate join two of their members, ililed Proveditori in 
 Campo, with the General. 
 Singular m- I faw formerly, in the cabinet of baron Bernflorf, minifter of ftate to 
 ^''^' the king of Great Britain, as eledlor of Brimfivick Liincburg, a very 
 
 curious medal, (truck in honour of the xf^nhWc oi Venice ; but with- 
 out any particular marks to fliew on what occafion it was ftruck. It is 
 of filver, and about the bignefs of a Rhenijh guilder, but not fo thick. One 
 fide reprefents the iflands belonging to Venice, with part of the Terra 
 fernia towards the frontiers of Germany ; and that part which reprefents 
 dry land is inlaid with gold. The names of the chief churches and 
 iflands are in very fmall charadlers. On the reverfe lide is the following 
 infcription within a crofs : 
 
 Inclitce 
 
 Andriacce Virgini 
 
 Juftitid & Legum 
 
 Praftantid infi 
 
 gnitce armifq. 
 
 Viclrici. 
 
 * To the renowned virgin city in the Adriatic, famed for its juftice, 
 * and the excellency of its laws, and always vicflorious in war.' 
 
 It/mark on the The republic of Venice can boaft of one advantage almoft peculiar 
 Venetian jq itfelf, namely, that for feveral centuries the ableft pens have, as it 
 were, fucceeded each other in compofing the hiftory of it. The firft in 
 this feries of hiftorians was Sabelllcus, whofe works, entitled Res Veneta, 
 in forty-three books, were elegantly printed by Andreas Maurocenus, in 
 the year 1487. This excellent hiftory was continued by P/V/ro £^«;^(7, 
 who was fucceeded by Andrea Maurocenl. The next hiftorian was 
 Battifta Natii ; and where he left off, Mich. Fofcareni continued the 
 hiftorv of Venice. After him Pietro Garzoni wrote the modern part. 
 
 Ilhail
 
 VENICE. 291 
 
 I (liall conclude my letter with an elegant infcription in praFfe of this •fwi"»'»'»<"» 
 famous republic, which Ottavio Ferrari prefcnted to the three moderators ' "'^^" "^' 
 of the univerfity of Padua, namely, Giovanni Nani, Giova?mi Pijauri 
 (who were alfo procurators of St. Mark) and the cavaliere Giovanni 
 Grimani, on Neiv-year's-day : 
 
 Jane Pater triceps, 
 Mufariim ac temporiim moderator, 
 
 Fajloritm tituhis & bonos, 
 
 ^li totiim in Orbe?n cum fpeSies 
 
 Nil prater Venetos babes quod tuearis, 
 
 Apud qiiQS, terris omjiibus pulfus, 
 
 JEternum cum libertate facrariutn naSlus es, 
 
 Cujus iinius initium & Jinis 
 
 'Te ciinSta videntem latet. 
 
 Jane Pater, 
 
 ^i patens claufufque pacem 
 
 Ac pads opera in invidiam foves, 
 
 Aditwnque divinitatis rejeras, 
 
 Hanc japientice ftrenam placatus excipe, 
 
 Et volens fove 
 
 ' T'rojanos rerum dominos gentemqiie togatani' 
 
 * Venerable Janus, prefident of the Mufes, and regulator of times, 
 ' whofe name is the moft honourable in the whole Calendar, and whofe 
 ' triple view comprehends the paft, prefent, and future -, be propitious to 
 ' Venice, where thou didft find an eternal afylum with Liberty, when 
 
 * baniflied from every other part of the world. And though all things 
 ' are open to thy comprehenfive view ; yet the beginning and end of 
 ' that illuftrious republic are concealed from thy fight. Janus, propi- 
 
 • tious father, who doft prefide over peace and war, and openeft the 
 ' way to immortality ; gracioufly accept this literary New-years of- 
 ' fering, and protedl the vidlorious republic of Venice, and all the 
 ' learned members of this celebrated feat of the Mufes.' 
 
 Pp 2 LETTER
 
 i^^2 
 
 VENICE, 
 
 LETTER LXXV. 
 
 Of the RialtOy tlie German Faclory, the mofl remarkable 
 Palaces and Cabinets of Curiolities in the City of Venice ; 
 the Ifland of Mura7io^ 8ce. 
 
 I! Ponte Ri- 
 aha. 
 
 II Canale 
 niaggiore. 
 
 B.iik and ix- 
 
 German 
 
 hcttfe. 
 
 Jcadcmy of 
 painting. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 ^ H ^HE bridge called Rinlfo is all of marble, and confifts of a 
 J_ fingle arch, which is ninety feet wide. It was built by the fa- 
 mous architecft j4ntonio dal Ponte. This bridge is fupported by twelve 
 thoufand piles of elm, and coft the republic two hundred and fifty 
 thoufand ducats. The breadth of it above is thirty-feven common 
 paces, which is divided by two parallel rows of fliops into three greets ; 
 but the middle ftreet is broader than thofe on each fide. 
 
 The great canal over which this bridge is built, is narrower here than 
 in any other part, being only forty paces over. It is thirteen hundred 
 paces in length, and the beft houfes in the city ftands on its banks. 
 
 Not far from the Rialto are the exchange and the bank. The latter 
 belongs to the ftate, and pays no intereft for any funds lodged there: 
 but the merchants place their money there partly for fecurity, and partly 
 for the facility of transferring, and remitting it in trade. 
 
 II Fontieo del Tedefchi, or the German Faftory, which is the maga- 
 zine for all goods coming from Germany or configned thither, ftands 
 alfo in this neighbourhood. The company of German merchants con- 
 cerned in this fadlory at prefent confifts of twenty-eight families : and 
 though the building belongs to the ftate, both they and their fadtors, 
 if unmarried, have the privilege of living in it; for it contains near 
 five hundred rooms. The front towards the great canal is painted by 
 Gecrgicne, and that towards the ftreet by Titian ; but the weather has 
 greatly impaired the beauty of both performances. Several fine paintings 
 by Titian, Paolo Ferone/e, Giovamii Contarini, and Tintoretto are alfo to 
 be feen in the apartments. 
 
 Connoifleurs in painting will be pleafed to find two accademies for that 
 noble art at Venice, where the difciples generally draw from the life. 
 The moft remarkable pieces of painting throughout the city of Ve- 
 nice are judicioufiy defcribcd by Borghini^ in a work entitled Le Minere 
 d'ila pittiira. 
 
 On
 
 VENICE. 293 
 
 On this head I mufl: add, that here is made tiie heft fort of that^'l'f^'"''"''"*' 
 fine blue ufed by painters, and diftinguillicd by the name of ultramaritie.'''^/!^'^ "" 
 The chief ingredient in this colour is lapis lazuli, though not the befb 
 oriental kind, but fuch as is found in feme parts of Jtaly. 
 
 The roofs of the houfes in Venice are flat, and covered with tiles. •'^'"''!^?^'''' 
 The flooring of mofl: of the apartments is a kind of red plafter, made oiyj'^^'jl'''' 
 pulverized marble and brick, mixed with, oil : it makes a beautiful ap- 
 pearance, and is very lafting. 
 
 Among the private palaces in this city, that of Grimaldi is one of the Palazzo di 
 mofl elegant, for the architedlure, the furniture, and the curiofities, both Grimaldi. 
 modern and antique, to be feen in it. Mabillon has given an accurate 
 defcription of it in his Diariuin Italicum : and Sanfovim has thought 
 it worthy of a particular treatife. 
 
 The Pefaro palace is one of the befl on the banks of the Canale Palazzo di 
 vraggiore, or great canal. The front is of free-ftone, and as high as * ^^°' 
 the firft fl:ory the ftones are cut like a diamond : the gallery over it is 
 fupported by pillars, and makes a very grand appearance. 
 
 Not far from S. Maria Zobenigo, a nobleman of the name of Fifani Palazzo di 
 is building a very elegant and fpacious houfe. In the court are feveral P''*"'- 
 buflo's and flatues ; and among the latter, is one of a woman, whofe 
 head is, as it were, covered with a fine white veil of fuch exquifite 
 workmanfliip, that the face is feen as if it was through a piece of gauze. 
 
 Among other curiofities in the Grimani palace, is a bufto with thefe Paia-.^7o tJi 
 words under it : Grimani. 
 
 ^ _^ Ancient biilio 
 
 Bono Deo „,.j ;„fcrfp. 
 
 Brofoiitl <'<•"■ 
 
 Aftori of Venice has publiilied a learned letter to Zenir concerning this 
 infcription. That Brontonti, or Thunderer, Hiould be read inflead of 
 Broionti, is certain, as may be feen by the following ancient infcriptions 
 in Gr liter, p. 17. 
 
 yei;/. SanSlo. Brontonti. 
 Aur Popliiii 
 
 And p. 34. 
 
 Deo. Soli. inviBo. Mithre 
 
 Fl. Septimius. Zofmiis. V. F. 
 
 Sacerdus. Dei. Brontontis. 
 
 But in all probability Dcus Brontom is no other than 'JupiterTdna/is, 
 or Jupiter Fidminam, as he is called in an ancient moniunent in Grater 
 p. 21. n. 3. And the fame author makes mention of Dcus Fidgura/us, 
 in loc. cit. and Dem Fulgerator, n. 4. Jupiter Optimus Maxlmus SaramcuSy 
 
 in
 
 294 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 in an infcription found in the village of Mombach, not far from Mentz, 
 mentioned by Griiter, p. 22. n. 13, alfo fecms to be the fame deity. Saran 
 and Taran appear to be fynonimous terms ; and the latter, in the Celtic lan- 
 guage, fignifies thunder*. From this word I conceive is derived the name 
 of Thor, the idol of the Germnfis and other northern nations, which feems 
 to agree in moil points with the Jupiter of the Greeks and Romans -f. 
 The name of the god Tharamis occurs in the poet Ltican X ; and Lu- 
 cius, in his Infcriptio7ies Dalmatica, cites the following infcription on 
 a flone found in Dalmatia : 
 
 Jovi. O. M. 
 
 Taranuco 
 
 Arria Succejfa. 
 
 V. S. 
 
 I make no fcruple alfo to attribute the following monument, dug up 
 at Cbejler in the year 1653, and now to be feen among the Oxford anti- 
 quities to the fame deity : 
 
 * It has the fame fignification in the ancient Britifl) or TVelch language^ 
 t This refemblance has been generally allowed in all ages. See Cluver. Germ, antiq. 
 1. i. c. 26. Lofcher. Utter. Celt. the/, xii. p. 25. JVorm. faft. Dan. I. i. p. 85. Scheffer. 
 IJpfal. antiq. c. 6. Arnkiel Cimhr. gcntil. I. i. c. 10. 'ButTVeiland, in his diflertation on Thor, 
 printed in quarto at Copenhagen, in the year 1709, finds the greateft refemblance to be be- 
 twixt the Man of the Romam and the 77w of the Celta : and it muft be owned, that fome 
 of the attributes of Thor have an affinity with thofe of the god of war. But it muft alfo 
 be allowed, that we muft not be too pofitive, when we fearch into the dark ages of 
 antiquity. 
 
 X The poet fpeaks of the barbarous human facrifices of the Celt<e in the following 
 words : 
 
 ^utbus immitis placatur fanguine diro 
 
 Teutates, horrenfque feris altaribus Hefus, 
 
 Et Tliaramis || Scythica non mitior ara Diana. Pharfal. lib. i. 
 
 * And ye, where Hefus' horrid altar ftands ; 
 
 * Where dire Teutates human blood demands ; 
 
 * Where Thararnis by wretches is obey'd, 
 
 * And vies in flaughter with the Scythian maid.' RoWE. 
 
 II It is Taranis in fome Editions. Vid. Ed. Thoma Faitmb, Amjl. 1643. 
 
 I. O. M.
 
 VENICE. 295 
 
 I. O. M. T A N A R O 
 
 T. ELVPIUS. GALER 
 
 PRAESENS GVN + A 
 
 P R I. L E G. XX. V. V. 
 
 COMMODO. ET 
 
 LATERANO 
 
 C O S S. 
 
 V. S. L. M. 
 
 I give you this infcription as it was copied by D r. Prideaux, an Eng^ 
 lipj Divine of extraordinary learning, and no lefs piety. For as the ftone, 
 on account of its great weight, ftands in the open air, expofed to all 
 weathers, the letters are fo worn out, that in the year 171 5, I could 
 make out no more than the two X X. and V. in the fourth line. 
 
 An ancient monument publiflied by Boijfardy in which Bronto?is is re- 
 prefented as a beardlefs young man with a lyre, might occafion fome 
 perfons to conje<fture that this Bonus Dcus Brcntons was rather the fame 
 with Apollo^ than Jupiter. But it is well known that every ftatue of 
 'Jupiter has not a beard. The lyre in BoiJJhrd's monument, which is 
 without firings, and refls on a ball or kettle, may (according to the ex- 
 planation of the celebrated Mo7itfaucon) in general allude to the noife of 
 the thunder. Befides, in Gruter% infcription, p. 36. n. 11. Bonus Deus 
 Brontons, is manifeftly diflinguifhed from Apollo. 
 
 In the SavornianOy Nani, Morofini, Lorendam and Vandramini pa- Paiazzi di Sa- 
 .laces, are to be feen a great many fine pieces of painting. The apart- vorniano, k^c. 
 ments in thefe palaces are alfo very elegantly furnirtied. Sagredo's cele- Sagrcdo'; ?a/- 
 brated gallery at prefent is fliut up, on account of fome repairs he is ''''7- 
 making there : But it confifts chiefly of antiquities, natural curiofities, 
 and efpecially foreign arms and weapons. 
 
 Signior T^iepolo has alfo a very valuable cabinet where the arrangements- 1 . 
 IS very judicious, elpecially as to the coins and medals. Hm. 
 
 Capello, a noble Venetian., is poflefled of a copper-plate on which part Capciio'; f.^- 
 of the Fajii confulares is engraven. Nicolo Ben has written a very learned hinetofcurhft- 
 diflertation on this antique. In the fame nobleman's cabinet are four- ''"' 
 , teen gems, or cameo s^ reprefenting the chief paffages of the life of 
 Chrifly feveral intaglio's, curious works in wood, natural curiofities, Cic. 
 As the owner was in mourning for the death of his father Antonio Ca- 
 pello, I found all the paintings in the hall in fuch diforder, that I could 
 not take a view of them. 
 
 ConnoifTeurs in medals and old coins may fee fine collections of them Cahhtm «/ 
 &t the above-mentioned Signior Boris, and in the cabinets of the follow- "••'•''«'''• 
 
 iiig
 
 296 VENICE. 
 
 ing Nobili., namely. Ri/zzim, on the Canale Rcgio ; Correri, m the Riva 
 di Binggio (who likewife has publifhed a curious treatife on the medal- 
 lions in his poffeffion) Coniero, in the Calk della Rcgijia ; and at Btir- 
 baro's, in the Procto-atie vecchie. 
 Minerals, &.-C. As to natural curiofities, minerals, foflils and petrifications, Zanni- 
 "h n^^^""'" ^'W/^' an apothecary has an incomparable collection left him by his fa- 
 ther, who died in the year 1729, and was particularly famous for his 
 Nix ferri. preparation of Nixferri ; which fecret he learned from one St. Hilairey 
 a Frenchman. The Nixferri is of a beautiful white colour, and confifts 
 of clear and fparkling filaments, as if it was made out of the pureft fil- 
 ver. It is ufed as a very powerful remedy in various cafes, but particu- 
 larly for a Gotiorrhaa, and is properly the quintefcence or fineft particles 
 of iron. This metal, as appeared byfeveral experiments Zannichelli tried 
 on it, confifls of a little quickfilver, a pretty large quantity of fulphur. 
 Nix Martis. and a good deal of fait. Nix Martis is prepared from filings of fi:eel dif- 
 folved in antimony, which being fufHciently fublimed over a gentle fire, 
 are then cryftalized. The inventor, in 17 13 and 171 9, publifhed at Ve- 
 nice a particular treatife entitled, De ferro ejufque Nivis prcpparatione. 
 
 Among the petrifications in Zannichelli % colledion, are likewife to be 
 feen the upper jaws of two large fifhes, a flying-fifli, a Tattropo}-m, a 
 Lapis nutnil??talis, and other curious pieces. Here are alfo fome artificial 
 curiofities worth obferving ; particularly, an ivory cylinder, finely carved 
 in relie'vo. 
 Paintings of Among the curious colledlions of paintings at Venice are thofe, which 
 (ount Schu- fome years ago were purchafed by the field-marfhal count Schi/Iemiurg, 
 lemburg. -whom I have mentioned above, when it was probable he would have con- 
 tinued fome time, if not always refided in this city. Some pieces by Ca/iig- 
 lione deferve particular notice, together with the lafl fiege and new fortifica- 
 tions oi Corfu, which are not only reprefented in paintings, but there is like- 
 The importance wifc a modcl of them cut in wood. Corfu *, is not only a bulwark to the 
 e/ the ijland Venetians againft the attack of a foreign enemy, but is likewife of great ad- 
 "■' ^^ ' vantage to the republic on account of its falt-works, which, with thofe of 
 Chiofa (an ifland lying not far from the influx of the Brenta Nuova, and 
 twenty Italian miles from Venice) yield an annual revenue of upwards of 
 live millions of lire. There is now a garrifon of four thoufand men conti- 
 nually kept in the caflle o^ Corfu; and fince, cownt Schulonburg c&ukd fe- 
 veral nevi^ fortifications to be added to it, it may juffly be looked upon as 
 one of the flrongeff places in Europe. The Venetians are very fenfible of the 
 
 * The antiquities of the idand o( Corfu have been at full length defcribed by its late 
 ."irchbifliop cardinal ^lirim, \i\ his Primordia Corcyra:, publifhed at Leui in 1725, and at 
 Brcjda in 1738, in quarto. 
 
 fisnal
 
 VENICE. 297 
 
 flgnal fervice that General did them by holding out fo long jn this ifland ; 
 
 lor which reafon they ereded a flatue to him in his life-time > an iionour Statw ruihj 
 
 which they never conferred on a General before, Morofmi only excepted, '" '^'^"' ^^''"" 
 
 It ftands in the large piazza of the city of Corfu^ and reprefents count ^henpMk. 
 
 Schulemburg fomcwhat bigger than the life, in a Roman habit, with a 
 
 truncheon in his hand. On the pedeftal, which, together with the 
 
 flatue, is of white marble, is the following infcription : 
 
 Mattbiis 
 
 Cotniti Scuh'mhurgio, 
 
 Sum mo terreftrhun copiayiwi 
 
 PrafeBo, 
 
 ChrifliancB Reipiiblica, 
 
 In Corcyra ohfuiione 
 
 J^aborantis, 
 
 FortiJJimo Ajfertori 
 
 Adhuc vi'vefUi 
 
 Senatus 
 
 Anno 
 
 M. DCC. XV I. 
 
 Die XIL Menf. Sept. 
 
 ' To Matthias Count Schi/kmburg, chief commander of the land forces 
 ' of the Chriftian republic of Fenice, when preffed hard by the fiege 
 * of Corfu, the fenate erecfted this flatue on the twelfth day of September, 
 ' 1716, while the brave defender of that city is living.' 
 
 Some years after this flatue was ereded, a powder magazine, at a fmall 
 diflance from it, happened to be fet on fire by lightning, and did great 
 damage to many public buildings, both civil and ccclefiaftical, that flood 
 near it. But the Count's flatue was not fo much as touched. This cir- 
 cumflance, and the allufion to the ancient opinion, that the lightning 
 fpared heads crowned with a laurel- wreath, the emblem of vidory, Ixgesicus ad- 
 gave occafion to the addition of the following line on the pedeftal. MaiMh"! 
 
 IntaSfa juhnine laurm *. 
 
 ' The laurel'd yidor flill remains unhurt, 
 
 ' Tho' mimic lightning play'd about his head.' 
 
 This 
 * Plin. Hijh Nat. lib. xv. c. 30. Tiberium principem tomnte cwk ionnari ea {hmo)Jolitum 
 ferunt contra fulminum metm. 
 
 Vol. III. Q.q ' « The
 
 298 VENICE, 
 
 His inccni. 'X\\\% General's income, as Generak di Sbarco, in time of peace, is about 
 thirty thoufand dollars*; but during the time of war it amounts to eighty 
 thoufand. His meffages or propofals relating to military affairs, and likewife 
 the flate's directions to him, are all fent in writing. Amidft all the miftruft 
 His eonwrfn- which the Venetians conceive againft their nobles and officers of flate, 
 'uima's! '^''' ^^^ '^^y ^ould have any converfation with foreign ambaffidors, Count 
 Schiikmlmrg, even at the beginning, never thought fit to conform him- 
 felf to fuch fevere reftridions ; and when a foreign ambafTador arrived 
 at Venice he always paid him the firft vifit. However, for fome time 
 paft, this commerce has been in fome meafure intermitted ; for the Ge- 
 neral expedts the firft vifit from them, when he returns from the Terra 
 ferma, and the ambalTadors on the other hand, refufe to pay him that 
 compliment. 
 Medals jiruck I cannot omit three medals ftruck in honour of this nobleman at Nii- 
 in honour of rcjjberg. The firft reprefents the Marpal's head, with this infription : 
 
 Matth. yoh. S. R. I. Com. de Schulenburg Ser. Reip. Ven. Marech. Gen. 
 Corcyra Fropiignator. 
 
 * Matthias "John de Schidemburg, count of the holy Roman empire, 
 ' General of the forces of the moft ferene republic of Venice^ and de- 
 * fender of Corfu.' 
 
 On the reverfe is the count's coat of arms, with thefe words : 
 
 Ab ipfo ducit apes animumqiie ferro. Horat. 1. iv. c. 4, 
 
 ' CoUeding wealth and fpirit from the fword. 
 
 The fecond medal agrees with the firft as to the head and the legend 
 round it; but on the reverfe is a reprefentation of the fiege oiCorJu^ and 
 a plan of the city, with this motto : 
 
 ' The emperor Tiberius is faid, when it thundered, to have put a wreath of laurel nbout 
 ' his head as a charm againft lightning, of which he was much afraid.' 
 
 The medal ftruck on the death of the great marfhal Turenne alludes to this opinion of 
 the ancients. On one fide of it was the marftial's head ; and on the reverfe, a tree 
 hung with laurel wreaths, and blafted by lightning. The infcription, 
 
 2\on lauri mille iiientur. 
 
 « A thoufand laurel wreaths are no defence.' 
 
 * A rix-dollar is equal to 3^. td. 
 
 Aufpik'iis
 
 VENICE, 299 
 
 Atijpiciis Vcwttmvh'fiti Gcrmana tuelur 
 
 Ortnan bravery, under the aufpices of the Venetians, defends' 
 
 In the exergue : 
 
 Corcyram 
 D. XXIL Au^. A. MDCCVL 
 
 ' Corfu, Augufi 22, 1706.' 
 
 The third medal has or one fide a laurel wreath, and within it the 
 infcription, engraven on the pedeftal of his llatue at Corfu, cited above. 
 On the reverfe is the figure of the ftatue, and the ifland of Corfu at a 
 diftance, with this infcription : 
 
 Semper honos noynenque iuum laudejque manebunt *. 
 
 ' Thy fame, thy praife, and honour'd name fliall laft 
 ' Till time fliall be no more — — — 
 
 The ifland of Murano, which lies about a mile from Venice^ has Its i/7anJ o/Mu' 
 own magiftrates, and is faid to contain eighteen thoufand inhabitants. ^^^°- 
 
 The beautiful mirrours. and other glaffes made in this ifland, have Ltoking-glafts^ 
 fpread the reputation of it into foreign countries. However, this trade 
 is confiderably decayed ; other nations having found out the art of mak- 
 ing glafs, which far furpafl'es that of Venice : For the looking-glafles 
 made at Murano are only blown ; whereas in ether places they are 
 caft and ground. The Venetian glafs is very pure and dudile when it 
 is in fufion j on which account it is more eafily melted, and anfwers 
 much better than any other for works of fancy. The beft flints, called 
 Cuogoli, pulverized and mixed with fine aflies for this purpofe, are ga- 
 thered out of the river Po, and are not inferior in whitenefs to alabaflier. 
 Foreigners are permitted to fee and obferve every thin^- in thefe glafs- 
 works as long as they pleafe ; whereas to have a fight of thofe at P^/vV, 
 it is often a matter of great difiiculty. 
 
 This precaution of the French appears the more ftrange, as the glafl'es CumfanAwth 
 are all cafl: in Piccardy, and only poliflied and filvered over at Paris. On ^,*^]j^efden. 
 the contrary, no fcruple is made of fhewing the polifhing-mill at Drcf- 
 den, which, in its contrivance and execution, far exceeds any thing in tlic 
 Paris glafs-manufadory. 
 
 • Virg. Eclog. V. vcr. 73. 
 
 Q. q 2 At
 
 300 y E N I C E, 
 
 At MtiranOy when a large lump of ignited or melted glafs is blown 
 as much as poflible, it is drawn out into a long hollow cylinder by wav- 
 ing it about in the hand. This is afterwards cut open, and laid on a 
 large flat fliovel, like an oven-peel. It is then put in the furnace, where 
 it farther dilates itfelf, and is fcveral times clipped, till at laft it comes 
 out a fmooth-finilhed plate, and is brought to the cooler. The whole 
 procefs takes up but fix or feven minutes ; in which fliort fpace of time 
 the looking-glafs is put into the fire ten or twelve times. 
 
 The French have indeed found out the art of cafting glafs, where.13 
 at firfb they ufed to blow it like x\.\QVerie(ia}is. I am apt to believe, how- 
 ever, that the other method) by the progrefilve motion of the fwinging 
 or waving it in the hand makes the glafs clearer, and difiipates the 
 fmall bubbles' of air. But the lungs of a man are not able to per- 
 form, in point of fize, what has been compafled by cafting; for looking- 
 glaffes have been made in France to the height of a hundred and five 
 inches ; whereas the utmofl: extent acquired by blowing cannot exceed 
 fifty inches. On this account the Vcnetiait glafles of any confiderable 
 fize are extremely dear, when other looking-glaffes at prefent are fo 
 cheap, that a glafs fourteen inches high, and twelve broad, may be 
 friiioffhfs bought, at the beft hand, for ^w livres *. The prices of looking-glaffes at 
 at Paris. P^w nfc in the following proportion. A looking-glafs, 
 
 In Height In Breadth Livres: 
 
 20 Inches, 16 Inches, Coils 15 
 
 2j; 20 ' 27 
 
 .0 24 . 52 
 
 ^J . 26 100 
 
 40 30 ^50 
 
 200 
 
 45 33 
 
 50 35 255 
 
 55 38 325 
 
 60 ■ 40 ■ 400 
 
 65 43 510 
 
 70 45 
 
 620 
 
 75 48 780 
 
 80 • 50 1000 
 
 85 53 1515 
 
 ^o — i ^^ ■ ——— 2000 
 
 95 58 2520 
 
 TOO ' 60 ■ — — — 3000 
 
 * About five {hillings ; a French livre being nearly equal to 10^. fterling. 
 
 The
 
 VENICE, jor- 
 
 The poliniing-houfe for looking-glaflcs in the Rue St. Anlo'nic at Paris^F'-^'-"'i- 
 in which four hundred men arc continually cniploycd, was let up in the ''"■'"" '"'''■ 
 year 1666 under the miniftry of the celebrated Colbert. The French glafs 
 is cail at Chcrburg and St. Gobble. Formerly the French were fupplicd 
 with looking-glafs from Venice. But ihofc hnppy times for tlie rcpubhc 
 are now pall, and the making of all forts (jf glalfcs has been brought to 
 great perfedion m England*^ Saxony, Berlin, and the dutchy of /-/'«r- 
 temberg. Great quantities of fmall glafs tubes (like thole ufed in ther- 
 mometers) of dilrercnt colours, are alfo blown at Murano. Of thefe are Pruersc/ihe 
 made at Venice what they call Margaritlni, which the women of the "•«'-/'<? Mar- 
 lower clafs wear about their arms and necks for ornament. The larger ^^'^'"'"" 
 fort are ufed for makinsr rofaries. This work is performed with great 
 difpatch J the artifan taking a whole handful of thefe tubes at once, and 
 breaking them off one after another with an iron tool. Thefe fliort 
 cylinders are mixed with a kind of adies, and put over the fire in ai 
 iron pan ; and when the two ends begin to melt, by ftirring them about 
 (which is done with an iron v/ire) they are brought to a round figure ; 
 but care is taken not to leave them too long over the fire, left the hole 
 through which they are to be ftrung fhould be entirely clofed by the 
 melting of the glafs. 
 
 At S. France'i'co di Vigna arc fcveral ftrects entirely inhabited by 
 people, whofe fole occupation is to make and ftring thefe Mnrgaritini. 
 
 The managers of the glafs-houfe at Murano lay claim to nobility, by Pri^jihie <.■!■' 
 virtue of a grant made to them and their defcendants by //c7/;-v III. king '^'^ i' '-?/■'"'«- 
 ef France, who expreffed great pleafure and fatisfadion when he viewed ^^^ 
 their work. They are not looked upon as people of the loweft clafs 
 or mechanics even at Venice, but of the rank of Citiadini ; and on yJJ- 
 cen/ion-d-^y they make their appearance in three very elegant gondola's. 
 
 On this ifland formerly ftood the beautiful palace of Trevijano, which Trevifano 
 is now extremely decayed. Th^ Cornaro palace on this ifland has a gal_ ''"''' '-'"'■"^f°' 
 lery of paintings very well worth feeing ; hut as this gallery is faid to be 
 an Italian mile in length, it does not anfwer the high idea one is apt to Length of a 
 conceive of it from fach an account. It is indeed true, that, exclufive j"'^^"'-^,'''",'^/' 
 of the apartments of the firft ftory (which lead into the gallery, and are „,;,/,.. 
 decorated with fine paintings) it takes up nine hundred and eightv-four 
 common paces in length : but this gallery, as it is called, is of a very un- 
 equal breadth, and in feveral parts is no more than a narrow paflage, 
 which goes round the garden in a curve, forming feveral angles. It is 
 natural to fuppofe, that among the vaft number of pictures required to 
 
 * Query, whether the glafs made in England does not exceed any other in finencfs ? 
 I am certain our drinking-glafles are much fuperior to thole of France, and, I believe, of all 
 ©ther countries. 
 
 iiili
 
 302 
 
 V E N [ C E. 
 
 fill a gallery of fuch a length, many indifFerent pieces niuft: have 
 found a place there. It is alfo adorned with a conliderable number of 
 marble ftatues and bufto's. 
 Dominican Among the fifteen churches on the iflandof Mnrano, the principal is 
 church. jj^^t; of gj^ Pi'tcr, vvhicli bclongs to the Dominican monks. The De- 
 
 jcent from the crofs, over the high altar, is a celebrated piece by Giojeppe 
 Salviati. Near this piece is another of the Marriage at Ca72a ; and op- 
 pofite to it hangs a large and beautiful picture, reprefenting the mira- 
 culous feeding of the five thoufand, painted in the year 1721, 
 5/. Sernard'/ The church of St. Sc'TO^r^, adjoining to which is a convent of nun?, 
 church. j^^g feveral good pidures, by Falange and Pcirelli. In one of its chapels 
 
 is a pidlure of the dead body of Chrift, together with the virgin Mary 
 and fome of the difciples. The common people bellow very liberal oifer- 
 ings of copper money * through the grate under this picture. 
 Chiefa de' h\ the church of the holy angels are alfo fome remarkable pieces of 
 
 S.S. Angeli. painting, by Beliiii, Paris Bcrdone, &'c. The Annunciation of the 
 virgin Mary, over the altar, is by Pardenone ; and the four angels under 
 the organ were painted by Paolo Veroneje. 
 
 The 'JcwSi who formerly lived in a place to u'hich they gave the name 
 of Giudeca, or Zueca, are now limited to a particular quarter near the 
 Cajiale regie. They are obliged to wear a piece of red cloth on their 
 hats, by way of diftindlion. The number of Jeivs here amounts to 
 about fifteen hundred. 
 
 * That the ancient Romans made ufe of their little copper pieces of money not only fo^ 
 alms, but in honour of their gods, appears from Senna de Benef. vii. 4. Omnia Deorum 
 flint: tammt^ Diis pofuimus ditium^i^Jiipcmjc'citnvs. ' All things belong to the gods; yet 
 ' we make offerings to them, and caft fmall copper coins in their treafury.' It was alfo 
 cuftomary with the heathens to throw money and other valuable offerings into fprings and 
 rivers confecrateJ to deities. And to this ufage Seneca alludes, in ^taji. Nat. iv. 2. when, 
 fpeakino- of the fprings of thtNile iffuing from the craggy rocks, he fays, in hdc ora ftipcm facer- 
 dotes is aurea do7ia pr^rfeili, mm folemie venit faaum, jaciunt, ' Here, on the folemn feflival, the 
 ' priefls throw in their brafs money, and the great men their golden offerings.' To which 
 may be added what Pliny, lib. viii. efiji. 8. fays of the facred fpring of the Clitumnus : Fern 
 purus ^' vitreus, ut numerare jaSiai Jiipcs ^ relucentes cakidos poffis. 'A fpring fo pure and 
 ' clear, that you may count the pieces of money that have beea thrown into it, and the 
 ' fliining pebbles at the bottom,' 
 
 LETTER
 
 VENICE, 503 
 
 LETTER LXXVI. 
 
 Of the Clergy, and the principal Churches of the City of 
 
 Ve7ike. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 THE Venetia?i clergy are in no great repute either for tlieir learn- Free manner 
 ing or morals J nor do the nuns obferve the ftriftefl dlfcipline, °-^ '^'''."'^"' 
 efpecially in thofe convents, where none but thofe of noble families are 
 admitted. For as they do not voluntarily enter into this reclufe v/ay of 
 life out of a principle of devotion, but are perfuaded to take fuch a gall- 
 ing yoke upon themlelves againft their inclination, for the convenicncy 
 of their families, they leave no flone unturned by company, which 
 they receive in their parloir, and other entertainments, to make it the 
 more fupportable. The nuns of S. Lorenzo once threatened to fet the 
 nunnery on fire, rather than fubmit to be brought under any greater 
 reflraint. Thefe nuns, on account of their rank, have the title of Ex- 
 celleiiza as foon as they take the veil, though they be but young at that 
 time. 
 
 The common people, as in other places, ^lXQ {u^tv^mon?, zt Venice ; ii^tauomnf 
 but perfons of quality often run into the other extreme, and give them.- tl-e po-n-er of 
 felves no concern about religion. Their iTcill in politics has opened their ''f ^"P'^ ""/ 
 eyes to fee the indignity and detriment accruing to a ftate by fubmitting nice, 
 to the papal power, and encouraged them to affert feveral freedoms 
 and privileges, of which other nations have fuffered themfelves to be 
 deprived by the incroachments of the Pope. In order to fecure and per- 
 petuate this liberty, and to prevent diiturbances, every perfon who em- 
 braces an eccleliaflical life is, by a particular law, excluded from the 
 great council, and from having any fliare in the government. 
 
 The Patriarch, who is at the head of the clergy, ftiles himfelf Divina Pntrlmcij. 
 miferatione Patriarcha Venetiaruni ; i. e. ' By the divine mercy Patri- 
 ' arch of Venice ;' without the addition ufed by the bilhops of other na- 
 tions, £/ Sanvlce SedisApofiolia gratia ; ' And the favour of the holyApoftc- 
 ' lical See.' He is primate of Dahnatia, metropolitan of the archbifliops of 
 Candia and Corfu, as alfo of the bifliops of Ckiozza and Tercello. The great 
 council choofes him out of the nobility, and the Pope confirms the nomi- 
 nation. His power and dignity are very inconfiderable ; and even in 
 Venice itfelf does not extend to the church and dean of St. Mark, who 
 3 bears
 
 04 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 houndarits. 
 
 St. Angclo'j 
 church. 
 
 "bears the title of Primicer'io, and as to his office and habit, is, as it were, 
 a bifliop, but dependant on the Doge and Senate. 
 
 Kumber of The number of churches, convents, and hofpitals in Venice is com- 
 
 cburches, ^c. puted to be a iiundred and eighty. 
 
 Eccl'f.nnical in the ftreets near many of thefe rehgious edifices, white ftones are 
 fet up, infcribed with the word Sncrum, or ilSacrato, to denote how far 
 the privileges of every fuch foundation extend. 
 
 The mofl: remarkable churches are as follows in alphabetical order. 
 The church o^ S.Angclo is confecrated not only to Chrift and the vir- 
 gin Mary, butalfoto the archangel M/W'<Jt'/. The admirable piece over 
 the high altar wliich reprefents our Saviour healing the lame man, wa.s 
 p;iinted by Trcvifajii. In this church are alfo fome pidures by ^itian^ 
 Feranda, Contarini, and Pcilma; all, as may be concluded from the 
 names of the painters, cxquifitely done. 
 
 On the pavement before the high altar is the following epitaph : 
 
 Lp.t.rh of LAURENTIUS PASS INI P. Presbyter atatu fuce anno LXXIL 
 Laurenzo js[g /„ fnundt peldgo naufragiian patiar, banc tnihi arcam conjlruo. Ex~ 
 peSlabo pacts coliimbam, per quam falutis port urn attingam. 
 
 Anno MDCLXXXIIL 
 
 ' Lorenzo Pajini, a priefl, aged feventy-two. 
 * That I mav not be fliipwrecked in the troublefome fea of this world, 
 ' I build this ark for myfelf. Here I wait for the peaceful dove, which 
 ' Ihall condudlme to the port of falvation. A. D. 1683.' 
 
 Chif fa de' 
 tianti Apo- 
 lloli. 
 
 Epitaph of 
 Georgione 
 Cornell. 
 
 In the church of the Holy Apojlles are feveral monuments of the Cor- 
 JicUi or Cornari family, one of which has the following infcription : 
 
 GEORGIO CORNEL 10 Eq. D. Marci Procuratori Meritiffimo, 
 getter e at que opibus claro, '■cirtiite ivro fiamnifque fuis erga Rcmpublicam me- 
 ntis clariori. Ciijiis imius opera a Catheritta Sorore Regi/ta, ejus pefteris 
 mird pietate pojfhabitis, Imperiiim Vettetum Cypro Itifuld auButn ornatum- 
 que eji. 
 
 ' To Georgiotie Cornell, knight, procurator of St. Mark, a perfon 
 ' of diftinguiflied merit ; eminent for his defcent and fortune, but much 
 
 * more eminent by his virtues, and important fervices to the republic. 
 ' For to him alone the ftate of Vettice owes the ifland of Cyprtis, who 
 
 * perfuaded queen Catharitie, his fifter, generoufly to beftow it on this 
 
 * republic, in preference to her heirs and defcendants,' 
 
 I 
 
 Gcorgiom
 
 VENICE. 305 
 
 Gcbrgione and Catharina were the fon and daughter of the Doge Ofhufijier 
 Marco Cornaro. James II. the baflard, king o^ Cyprus, raifed Catbari7'ia ^^.J.|)^^/cv. 
 to the throne on account of her beauty : but after his deceafe, and that prus. 
 of her fon, flie was prevailed upon by her brother to take a voyage to 
 Vejjice. Accordingly the Bucentoro was fent in order to convey her to 
 that city; and fuch honours were paid to her, that flie not only con- 
 tinued ■iX. Venice till her death, which was in the year 15 10, but alfo 
 made the republic her heir. This was indeed a manifefl; injury XoChar- 
 lotta, the lawful daughter oi John III. and wife to Lewis duke of Savoy, 
 who had been expelled by the illegitimate James II, But the Venetians, 
 without paying any regard to thefe confiderations, took pofTefTion of the 
 kingdom of C)'/';-?^ : from which, however, in 1574, they were in their 
 turn expelled by the Turks'. 
 
 On another tomb is the following infcription : 
 
 ^NDREM CORNELIO Uieronymi Equitis ac D. Marci Procu- inja-ipthn o>: 
 r-atortsjilio, qui ad maxima pads bellique 7iegotia femper vocatus, toga ceque A"^/- ^°''- 
 clarus ac armis, nunc Veronce Prator, Brixice- Prafe5lus, nunc in Fenetd "^ ' i''^'^'- 
 continente junimus copiarum Provifor, dum Cretce Procojiful ac Imperator 
 fotenti Turcarum iwoajloni coiiatu onmi ubique ardens occurrit, & obfeJJ'ee 
 Cydojiifedulofcrt fuppetias & operam, mijfo quoque cum fua Triremi Catharino 
 jilio, qui & pugnans vulnus accepit, & fiunquam deditioni acqiaevit, dumque 
 infraSius Rethymi dimicat, jerrea iSlus peSlore glande, repetito Patrice no- 
 mine moritur ceternum ijiSfurus, Mtath hi. Salutis M.DC.XLFI. 
 
 ' To Andrea. Cornelio, fon of Gieronimo, knight, and procurator of 
 
 * St. Mark, whole life was fpent in the higheft civil and military dig- 
 ' nities ; illuiftrious both in peace and war ; prxtor of Verona, prefedt 
 
 * oi BreJJia, proveditor-general of the army on the Venetiaii Terra ferma, 
 ' and afterwards commander in chief in Cr^/^, where, with the mofl adlive 
 
 * courage and ardour, he oppofed the powerful invafion of the Turks, 
 
 * and haftened with fuccours to the relief of Canea, then befieged ; 
 
 * and having fent away in a galley his iovi Catharino, who alfo was 
 
 * wounded in the engagement, and would not furrender, he received a 
 
 * fatal wound in the breaft: by a mufket-ball as he bravely fought, and 
 ' died that he might live for ever, often repeating the name of his dear 
 
 * country, in the 51ft year of his age. 1646.' 
 
 The paintings in this church are all done by the moft celebrated 
 m afters. 
 
 The church of St. Bajj'o, in Sejiiero di S. Marco, has a beautiful marble s/. Bafib 
 tabernacle on the high altar 5 and on an another altar, an excellent 
 
 Vol. III. R r b^Jo-
 
 3o6 VENICE. 
 
 hajfo-rclkvo of St. Francis fupported in the air by angels. Oppofite to 
 it is an admirable ftatuc of St. Antony^ with the infant "Jejm in his 
 arms. 
 S, Cantiano. The church of S.Cantiano is adorned with feveral good pieces of 
 painting and fculpture. Here is alfo the following epitaph on Tiberio 7/- 
 nelliy a painter, who was created a knight by L^w/i XIII. oi France: 
 
 Tinelli'j <■//. TIBFjRIO I'INELLI Eqtiiti, qimn trior taliiim wraginei animan- 
 <apb. ffffi piQVi hen rapiilt tntempejlroa, ut naturae ab arte deviSla indulQ;eret, 
 
 "fohannes BaptiJIa Cajella Atitijhs Fratri betie merenti mcerem poj, Vixit 
 annos LIL M. IV. D.XXIl. Obiit Anno M.DCXXXVIIL 
 
 ' To Tiberio TinclUt knight, whom death, out of pity to nature, 
 ' which was furpalfed by his art, haflily fnatched away, while he was 
 ' infpiring human figures with life. G/o^'. Battijla Cajella, a priefb, 
 ' eredled this monument as a mark of his tender affedion for his bro- 
 
 * ther. He lived fifty-two years, four months, and twenty-two days, 
 
 * and died in the year 1638. 
 
 This church lies in the quarter of the Canale regio. 
 La Carita. La Carita, in the Sejliero di Dorfo dura, belongs to the Lateran canons, 
 
 Honv Alexan- and is famous for having been the place where pope Alexander III. pri- 
 Aerlll.pays yatcly refided ; who was pleafed to return the civility he met with here 
 tlinmnt. with a grant of perpetual indulgence, which is granted every year on 
 
 the third day of April. Accordingly the following infcription is to be 
 
 feen over the door : 
 
 Alexander III. Pontifex Maximus, Fredericl a rabie profugus^ has facras 
 Regidarium cedes pro munere receptee hofpitalitatis inexhaujio indulgentiarum 
 thefaiiro ferpetiio ditavit. M.C.LXXVII. 
 
 • Vo^^t Alexander Wl. in recompenfe of the hofpitality fhewn to him in 
 ' this holy place, when he was obliged to fly from the brutal rage of 
 
 * the emperor Frederic, perpetually endowed it with an inexhauftible 
 ' treafure of indulgences, in^ the year 1177.' 
 
 The Pope's original bull, written on parchment, is hung up in the 
 
 church. 
 
 Piauri of the The memory of Frederick the firft's fubmifiion to pope Alexander TIL 
 
 jubaijjiott of is alfo prefcrved here in a pidure ; in which, however, the Pope does 
 
 FredwuTl. "°^ ^^^ ^^ f°°^ diredly on the emperor's neck *. The infcription is 
 
 * This is a farther proof of the truth of the fait, though the author feems unwilling 
 te believe it, 
 
 exadly
 
 VENICE. 307 
 
 exadly tlie fame with that in ilie Sale Regia of the Vatica7i "*, under a 
 reprefentation of the fame tranfadtion. 
 
 The walls of the Capella di San Sahatore are inlaid with a great num- 
 ber of large pieces of porphyry and ferpentine. 
 
 In this church is a beautiful marble monument of the Doge Nicolo 
 da FontCy with the following infcription : 
 
 N I CO LAO DE PONTE Priucipi, qui ad Reipub. adminijlratio- 'Epitaph of the 
 nem prater nobilif. Jcieniiariitn ornamenta fmgularem quoque fapientiam at- ^'^p ^'colo 
 que itmocentiam cum atttdijjet, ampliJJ. honorihus ac legationibus apud onmes 
 Europce Principes prceclari/J'.JhiBus, ilUfque potijf. duabin, altera ad Tri- 
 dentinajn Synodum, altera exaSid jam estate adGregor. XIII. Poiitif. Max. 
 fujcepta, optunc de P atria meritiis, ad Principatiim eveSlus, Republ. gravijf. 
 cere alieno liberatd, Urbe plurimis belli fubftdiis & pads ornamentis au^d, 
 decejjit memorahile fids civibus exemplum M.D.LXXXV. III. Kal. Sextil. 
 Vixit annos LXXXIF. in Principatu Vll, Menf. W. Die XL 
 
 * To the memory of prince Nicolo da Ponfe, who was qualified for 
 
 * the adminiftration of public affairs, by his univerfal learning, extraor- 
 
 * dinary wifdom, and lingular probity ; and after difcharging with great 
 ' honour the moft arduous employments, and embaflies to all the princes 
 ' of Europe (particularly one at the council of Tretit, and another, in 
 ' his advanced age, to his holinefs Gregory XIII.) was defervedly raifed 
 
 * to the ducal dignity. In that high ftation he difcharged the heavy 
 ' load of debts under which the republic laboured ; furnifhed the city 
 ' with the implements of war, and embellifhed it with the ornaments of 
 ' peace ; and> leaving a noble pattern of patriot fpirit to his country- 
 
 * men, died on the 30th of July, in the year 1585, after a life of 
 ' eighty-four years, having been Doge feven years, four months, and 
 
 * eleven days.' 
 
 Over the images of the Virtues which are reprefented on this monu- 
 inent, is the following line : 
 
 Eximia virtutis moimmenta ad gloria (India excitanda. 
 
 • Thefe monuments of virtue are defigned to excite a love of glory.* 
 And at the feet of them : 
 
 * See the Infcription in voK ii. p. 166. 
 
 R r 2 Vita
 
 3o8 
 
 VENICE, 
 
 f^inlings in 
 the churih of 
 5/. Catharina, 
 
 La Sertofa. 
 
 Paintings in 
 
 S. S. Cofmo 
 e Damiano. 
 
 Corpus Do- 
 mini church. 
 
 Chiefadella 
 Croce. 
 
 Si, Domenic 
 
 Vita curriculum exiguum, gloria vero immenfum. 
 ' Short is the duration of human lifej but that of glory is eternal.' 
 
 Here alfo are interred two brothers of the houfe of Barbarighi, who 
 were both raifed to the Dogejliip^ of which there had never been an ex- 
 ample before. 
 
 /&'. Catharinay in the quarter of the Canale regio is vilited by connoif- 
 feurs in painting, on account of a pidlure of Chrift efpoufing St. Catha- 
 rine, exquiijtely painted by Paolo Verofiefe. This church alfo exhibits 
 ieveral other pieces, painted by Tintoretto, poller, Pietro Vecchia, and 
 Tinelli. 
 
 La Sertofa, or the Carthufian convent, ftands on the ifland of 5. Andrea. 
 The gardens are remarkably large, and the chief nobility have their little 
 cells with as many private altars in this convent, which they make ufe 
 of as folitary retreats for devotion ; particularly in Lent. To every one 
 of thefe cells there is a little garden, where they keep turtles, which 
 are the moft delicate provifions allowed in Leiit. In the church belong- 
 ing to this convent are to be feen fome good pieces of fculpture in mar- 
 ble, particularly St. Bruno, the founder of this order, by Nicole Rinieri. 
 
 The church of S. S. Cofmo e Damiano, in Sejliero di Dorfo duro, is ele- 
 gantly ornamented, and belongs to the BenediSiine nuns. The painting 
 in frejco on the arched roof over the altare maggiore, or high altar, is 
 h'^ Pellegrini; and the crucifixion of Chrift, over another altar, is by 
 Tintoretto. Oppofite to this, is the virgin Mary with her divine infant in 
 the clouds, painted by Buc?iconfigli in the year 1497. Here are alfo 
 four other pieces of painting, equally remarkable for their largenefs and 
 beauty, ^7x;. i. Mofes caufing water to iffue from the rock. 2. David 
 dancing before the ark. 3. Chrifl feeding five thoufand men. 4. The 
 buyers and fellers driven out of the temple by our Saviour. 
 
 In the church ad Corpus Domini, belonging to the Dominican nuns, 
 which ftands in the Stfiiero di Canale regio, is a fine piece, reprefenting 
 king David bringing home the ark, hung over the door. But the 
 moft admired piece, is the Adoration of the Magi, by Giacomo Palma. 
 
 The church called La Croce di Venezia, in Sejliero della Croce, is adorned 
 with fine paintings ; but as to the beauty of the edifice, it is far furpaffed 
 by la Croce della Zueca. In the latter are fine altars, embellifhed with 
 excellent fculpture, and a great number of admirable pidlures. 
 
 The church of di S. Domenico, in Sefliero di Cajlello, will afford enter- 
 tainment to a connoifTeur in painting. Among the epitaphs in this 
 church, is the following oi Stefatjo Dpria, a young nobleman oi Genoa: 
 
 5 STE^
 
 309 
 
 VENICE, 
 
 STEPHANUS DORIA florens genere, opibus, estate ac fpe, primo 
 vix limine juvetittitis {proh dolor) fublatus, Cceteris omnibus 7-eUquit cotiti- 
 nejitia atqiie innoccntice exeinplum /ingulare, parent ibm vera mce/lij/imis & 
 amicis defideriiwi^ quale nemo antea, trijle ac lachrymabile. Vixit annos XXII. 
 Menfes Fill Obiit die XIX. Dec. M.D.XLII. 
 
 ' Stefano Doria, a youth of noble defcent, extenfive fortune, and of 
 ' the greateft hopes, was fnatched away by relentlefs fate in the flowery 
 ' pride of youth ; leaving to thofe who furvived him a remarkable pat- 
 . ' tern of innocence and chaflity ; but to his inconfolable parents and 
 ' friends the mournful tafk. of lamenting their irreparable lofs. He lived 
 ' twenty-two years and eight months, and died on the 1 9th of Decem- 
 ' ber, 1542.' 
 
 In the veftry ftands a beautiful white marble ftatue of pope Bene- 
 diti XIII. 
 
 S. Eufemia deferves a traveller's notice for its elegant high altar, and s. Eufemia;. 
 fome good pieces of painting. 
 
 The chief convent and bell church belonging to Li Frari, or the Fran- Li Frari. 
 cifcan monks, is in the Sefticro di S. Polo. Among the paintings in the 
 church are feveral pieces by Titiano, Fivarifio, Carpaccio, Contarini, 
 Catena, Peranda, Giovanni Perino, Palma, Salviafi, &c. Among its 
 chapels, that of St. Antony is particularly worth feeing. 
 
 In this church is the following epitaph on the tomb of Giacomo da Pe- 
 Jaro, bifhop of Baffo, who was chief commander of the Pope's galleys 
 againft the Turks ; 
 
 JACOBUS PISAURIUS Paphi Epifccpus, qui Turcas bello, fe Epitaph of 
 ipfian pace viticebat, ex nobili inter Venetos ad nobiliorem inter angelos fa~^^^^^^' 
 mi Ham delatus, nohilijjimam in illu die Coronam jujlo judice reddente hie [ittis 
 expe£lat. Vixit annos Platonicos. Obiit M.D.XLVU. IX. Kal. Aprilis. 
 
 ' Giacomo da Pefaro, bifhop of Baffo, vidlorious over the Turks m 
 
 * war, and over himfelf in peace ; who, being tranflated from the aflem- 
 
 * bly of the nobles oi Venice to the more auguft aflembly of the angels, lies' 
 ' here in expedation of that glorious crown, which the jufl: judge fhall 
 
 * beftow on him at the laft day. He lived the life of a philofopher, 
 
 * and died on the 24th day of March, 1547.' 
 
 The monument of the Doge Giovanni da Pefaro is one of the moft ■"^'.avsjm/ e/^ 
 magnificent in all Venice. I could net, however, help fmiling, to fee the yl^\§l^°' 
 
 four.
 
 3IO 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 lour Cohjjal ftatues which fupport the fuperb canopy under which the 
 Doge is reprefented fitting, with marble cufliions on their flioulders and 
 heads, as if it were in fome meafure to eafe them of the prefTure of fo 
 great a load *. 
 '' Under the monument, on the right-hand, are thefe words : 
 
 Vixit amios LXX. 
 
 * He lived feventy years.' 
 On the left : 
 
 jDevixit anm M. DCLIX. 
 
 * He died in the year 1659.' 
 
 And in the middle juft under his ftatue t 
 
 Hie revixil anno MDCLXIX. 
 
 '■ He revived in this ftatue in the year 1669. 
 
 Francefco Near the door leading from the choir to the convent, lies Francefco 
 
 DandoloV Dandolo, who was Doge of Venice ivom the year 1328 to 1339; and 
 taking advantage of the difturbances in Ltmbardy, he reduced Tre-vifo^ 
 and added it to the Venetian dominions. 
 
 The phyfician Peter Scivos, who invented the beft method of curing 
 caruncles that fometimes grow in the neck of the bladder, is comme- 
 morated by the following infcription on his tomb-ftone, which is near 
 the Altare di S. Girolamo. 
 
 Monument of PE'TRO SCIVOS, Gallo, Medico nojlni tempeftate celeherrimo, & 
 Scivos the curand^e Carunculce Veficce coUo adnata autori vei-e principi, yo. Carolus 
 F. ma;JiiJJ'. ejufdem art is profejjbr [ibiqiie & hare dikes P. C. 
 Obiit anno M.D.XCIIIL III. Kal. Aprilis. 
 
 * To Peter Scivos, a native of France, the moft celebrated phyfician 
 * of our age, &<:. He died March ^o, 1594-' 
 
 * His epitaph is very long, and full of the moft extravagant flattery. He is celebrated 
 for his courage, eloquence, and penetration in finding out the death of 'Jafnes I. king of 
 England, which had been concealed with wonderful artifice : But what entitled him to 
 this panegyric on his tomb, above all the reft, was his favouring the Jefuits, who, pro- 
 bably, were the authors of it. 
 
 Ift
 
 VENICE. 311 
 
 In the chapel of the Bernardi family, under a ftatue of black marble, ^"""neni of 
 are thefe words : _ '^^^ 
 
 Veritas jaceret hlc piibhca. 
 
 Si in uno viverei Sefiatore, 
 
 Scepe cum in Senatu perordjfet^ 
 
 Sapiflime in fupremis Cojnitiis 
 
 Auditin eft, nunquam pro familia, 
 
 Semper pro Republica, 
 
 Ed mode/I id ac libertate, qui loqui Jolet 
 
 Patrit? Pater, 
 ^iisfueritf habes etiamjine nomine, 
 Mortuus enim adhuc Jpirat & loquitur.. 
 
 * If truth and public faith were confined to one breaft, they would 
 ' lie buried here with this illuftrious fenator. Though he often ha- 
 
 * rangued in the fenate, and oftener in the great council, he was never 
 
 * heard to fpeak for his own family, but always for the common-wealth ; 
 ' and his fpeeches were delivered with that modefty and freedom which 
 
 * became a true Patriot. Reader, if thou afkeft who this great man was? 
 
 * I need not repeat his name ; for though he is dead, he ftill breathes 
 ' and fpeaks in this ftatue.' 
 
 I muft not here omit the monument of a learned lady called Mo- Monument of 
 dcfia dal PozzOy who was famous for feveral compofitions both in profe " ^^'^^^^^^'^j- 
 and verfe. She is alfo known by the name of Moderata Fonte, and lies in 
 the cloyfter not far from a ftatue of the Madomia miracolofa, with the 
 following epitaph : 
 
 MODESTM A PVTEO, fcemina doaijimc?. 
 ^ce varies virtutis partus Moderates Fontis nomine Rythmis Hetrufcis 
 {qui bus memoranda cecinit) & fermone continuo f elicit er enixa, ttaturce par- 
 turn dum ederet, puellce vitam, fibi vera mortem [proh dolor) afcivit. Phi- 
 lippus de Georgiis Petri F. in off. fuper aquis pro Ser. Dom. publici jura 
 defhidens AmantiJJima conjugi P. abiit ami. JDomini M.D.XCII. Kal. 
 Novembris. 
 
 ' To the memory of Modefta dal Pozzo, a lady of great learning, 
 ' who, after being happily delivered of what her genius conceived in 
 ' profe and verfe, in the Tufcan language, which were publilhed under 
 ' the name of Moderata Fonte, loft her life in child-bed, while fhe gave 
 ' being to a daughter. Filippo de Georgiis, the fon of Peter, who bravely 
 ' maintained the rights of the republic at fea, erefted this monument 
 
 * to
 
 OI2 VENICE. 
 
 ' to his beloved confort. She left this world on the firfl: day of No'cem' 
 ' ber, 1592.' 
 
 Account of Above eighty monks refide in this convent, who exprefs no great re- 
 nellr ^°'^°' ^P^<^ ^°'' '^^ memory of their brother P. Coronelli, a celebrated Venetian 
 cofmographer. For they told us, that he funk fome thoufands of ducats, 
 of the convent's money, in his phantaftical undertaking, which was an 
 univerfal library, or encyclopaedia! did:ionary, in five-and-forty volumes in 
 folio. But this work is now entirely at a fland, though a great number 
 of copper-plates have been already engraven for it, which are fold for 
 a mere trifle. Eight volumes of this didionary have, indeed, been pub- 
 liflied : But it has been very prudently laid alide, as there is little need 
 of further encumbering the world with a new load, which is nothing 
 Academia de ^ut a heap of errors and abfurdities. Venice, however, owes the inftitu- 
 gli Argonauti. tion of the Acadcmia Cofmografica de gli Argonauti, a literary fociety cal- 
 culated to improve geography and cofmography, to him ; but they have 
 hitherto given no remarkable fpecimen of the improvements they have 
 Coronelli'/ made in this fcience. The globes made by Coronelli, have, indeed, gained 
 globes, Jjim fome reputation, though they are far from being corredt, as may be 
 
 feen at firft fight. The two largeft globes that he ever finifhed, were made 
 by cardinal dEtree% defire, for Louis, XIV. king olVrance, and were for- 
 merly placed at Marly, from whence they have been fince brought to 
 the king's library at Paris. They are fifteen feet in diameter ; and yet, 
 notwithftanding their fize, they may be turned on their axes with one 
 fino-er. This gave occafion to the following flattering diflich on the pe- 
 deftal of one of thefe globes : 
 
 Inclyta Gallorum prolo ! quanta potentia Regis, 
 En I digito cceli volvit & Or bis Opus. 
 
 * How great is the power of the French monarch, who with his finger 
 * moves both heaven and earth ? ' 
 
 The flattery here is not more grofs and fulfome, than the thought on 
 which it is founded is falfe, it being nothing but a paltry pun ; for as 
 the meaneft: perfon could move thefe terreftrial and celeftial globes, it 
 could certainly be no proof of the monarch's great power. 
 
 Under the terreftrial globe are thefe lines ; 
 
 FiSius, Aloyfi, Tibi fijlitur Orbis ab arte, 
 Verus at ante pedes, Marte jubente, cadet, 
 
 * Here
 
 VENICE, 
 
 ' Here, great Lewis, Art prefents her mimic world to thee ; but by 
 ^ thy victorious arms the real world fliall fall at thy feet.' 
 
 Z^Z 
 
 This prophecy, that the whofe world was to fall at the feet of 
 Lewis XIV, was far from being verified when that prince concluded a 
 peace with Eriglandm the year 171 3. 
 
 Here is another church dedicated to St. Francis which is called s . Francefco 
 S. Francefco della Vigna, and lies in Sejliero di Caftello. It has an elegant (iella \'igna. 
 front built from a defign of the celebrated Palladio, on which are two 
 bronze flatues, bigger than the life, reprefenting Mojes and St. Faid. 
 Under the former are thefe words : 
 
 Minijlro umhrarum. 
 ' To the minifter of types or fliadows.' 
 
 And under the latter, 
 
 Difpe7ifatori lucis> 
 
 ' To the difpenfer of light.* 
 
 And near them are the following words fliewing the fculptor*s name J 
 
 Tiziani AfpeSli Fatavini Opus. 
 
 ' The work ci'Titiano Afpetto of Fadua.' 
 
 On the right hand at going into the church, is the Cape/la Grimajta, Capella Gri. 
 where the altar-piece is the adoration of the Magi, painted by Zuccaro, '^^na. 
 in 1564. On each fide ftands a bronze ftatue call by Camillo Bozzetti. 
 Under one of them are the words, 
 
 Diicc jndicio. ' Guided by judgmenti' 
 
 And under the other, 
 
 Comite bello. ' Accompanied by War.' 
 
 In the adjoining chapel of St. Antony the Abbot, are fome good marble 
 ftatues by AUeJfandro Viitoria. 
 
 The next chapel in order belongs to the family of Sagredo, and is 
 remarkable for the paUiotto or front of its altar, which is exquifitely in- 
 laid with marble. 
 
 Vol. III. S f Over
 
 H 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 ?ifl Morofuii. 
 
 Over the paflage to the convent is a monument erecfted to the memory 
 of the £)'3iji" Trev'ijano^ who expired at mafs -in the fervour of his devo- 
 tion. On one fide of the door is the fcourging of Chriji, painted by 
 Giacomo Fahna ; and on the other the Virgin vifiting Elizabeth her 
 coufin, by Pcranda. 
 Monument -f Over the high alf-ar are two beautiful hiftorical pieces of the Old 
 Gritti!"" Tcftamcnt by Farijh Micbiele, fome fine pieces of fculpturc; and on each 
 fide are the elegant monuments of two celebrated perfons of the Gritti 
 family. The moft remarkablf" was 'Triiidani, who, being admiral of the 
 Vi'ne.iian fleet, defeated the Tiirh, and died at Cafara in the year of 
 Chrift 1474, find the eightieth of his age. 
 
 In the Cappella Morojina is the monument of Marco Antonio Morcfniy 
 wiih the two following encomiums. 
 
 I. 
 
 MonuTT.entcf M. ANT. MA FRO C. Equif. & Prcciirat. Viro eloquent ia, rcriim 
 Marco Arte- dourind, civiUhiii ticgotiis & bellied 'virtute claro. %«* cum omnia oma- 
 jnenta, qucie in Repiibl. funt amplijjima, Jiid '■cirtiite adcptus ejjet, majoribus 
 tamen dignilf. femper ejl jiidicatiis. Legaiicncs innumeras maximajque fapi- 
 enter fortiterqiie geffit-, reprc£a prafertitn apiid Maxi mi U anion Imperat. quo- 
 riindcm Legatorwn temeritate. Legatus in caftris Impei-atoria omnia mimia 
 fdiciter obi it. Infubrico bello Magijler Equ. dejignatiis inird cekritate tran- 
 fmiJfo Abdud fe Gallorum Regi conjunxit, & Liidovicum Sforziam 'viSlorice 
 fpe jam exultantem^ armis reg72oqiie fpoliavit. 
 
 11. 
 
 Cremona captd, Mediolani Principis infignibm potitiis, ea fuis adibm af- 
 Jixit. %/^ lit fuce virtiitis & prreclarc^ viEIo'rice pcfreris monumoita ejjt'f:t, 
 exaBd jam at ate, dum videt totam Enropam armari eojitra Re-mptiblicam, 
 & luStuoli belli can jam prctcidere coniendit, di-vino conjilio e vita difceffii, ne 
 Urbem, quam auSlam imperio & ftorentem opibus reliquerat, paulo pofl mul- 
 tis cladibus affiiBam videret. Obiit anno Salutis M.D.IX. Sexto Id. Apri- 
 lis omnium fere fuorum bonorum Sihejlro Mauroceno Jcann-'Fr. ^S. M. & 
 ab eo uni femper ex eademjamilia ufufruStu legato. Vixit annos LXXF. 
 
 I. 
 
 * In memory of Marco Antcnio Mcrqfini, knight and procurator, di- 
 
 * ftinguiflied for his eloquence and learning, his civil and military ta- 
 
 * lents ; who, though raifed by his merit to the higheft dignities in 
 
 * the republic, was always accounted worthy of greater. In his embaf- 
 
 * fies, which were many and of the greateft importance, he behaved 
 •' with prudence and courage; efpecially at the court of the emperor 
 
 Max-
 
 -^ F E N I C E. 315 
 
 * Maximilian^ where he checked the raflinefs of other foreign ambafla- 
 
 ' dors. He difcharged his military commands in the field with great 
 
 ' ability and fuccefs. In the war of Z/5//7i^i^/Y/)', being appointed General 
 
 ' of the horfe, he palled the Addige with wonderful expedition, joined 
 
 ' the king of France, and totally defeated Luigi Sforza, already elate 
 
 ' with the hopes of vidory, and ftripped him of his dominions.' 
 
 II. 
 
 ' Having taken Cremona, and thus become mafter of the duke of 
 ' Milan\ colours, he fet them up in his own houfc ; as a monument to 
 ' pofterity of his courage and fignal vidlory. In his advanced age, whilfl 
 ' all Europe was arming againft the republic, and he indefatigably la- 
 ' bouring to prevent the threatning war. Divine Providence removed 
 ' him out of the world, that he might not fee that city, which he had 
 ' raifed to the height of profperity and power, fooi? after haraffed, weak- 
 ' ened, and brought low by many loffes, and a feries of calamities. He 
 ' died y^r// 18, 1509, having lived feventy-five years.' 
 
 The altar-piece in the Cappella di Cafa Badoera is a piece of painting 0/ Andrea 
 reprefenting our Saviour's afcenfion, by Paolo Veronefe : And among other Badoera. 
 epitaphs in that chapel is the following. 
 
 AND REM BAD FA RIO Equiti, Petri F. Se?ia/ori integerrimo, 
 qui ehqiientia qua mirifice valuit, iifus femper opt i me, phcrimis PraJeSturis 
 egregie adminijiratis^finitirnque inter Rempulb. ac Cafarem difceptatione per- 
 traMatd, & tnagno cum fpkndvre ad Pontijicem Maximu7n, ad Philippum 
 Hifpaniarum, ad Henriciim III. Gallia:, & Polonia Reges Lcgationibus ha- 
 hitis. Pace cum Sclymo Turcarum Imperat. Reipubl. nomine frmat a, adHen- 
 ricum Gallice Regem Legatus iterum projicifcens, in ipfomet itinere ad ceter- 
 'lUim fedem ejl evocatus, gravi civium omnium dolore, magjid Reip.jaSlurd, 
 egregio pojleris reliSlo ad iaudern excmplo D. ijixit anncs LX. 
 
 ' To the memory of Andrea Badoera, knight, the fon of Pietro, a 
 ' nobleman dlftinguidied for his integrity, who always made the beft 
 ' ufe of that eloquence which he poffelTed in an eminent degree, and 
 ' difcharged the higheft offices with honour and reputation. He fettled 
 ' the dhpute between the republic and the emperor concerning their 
 ' boundaries, and was fent on feveral important embaflies, namely, to 
 
 * the Pope; to Philip, king of Spain; to Henry HI. king of France ; 
 ' and Sohman, emperor of the Turks, with whom he concluded a 
 ' peace, in the name of the republic : But being a fecond time nomi- 
 
 * nated ambalTador to Henry king of France, he was, on his iourney 
 
 S f 2 ' called
 
 3i6 
 
 Statue of 
 the Doge 
 Fiancifci 
 Contaieai. 
 Gardtn. 
 
 St. Gemini- 
 ano. 
 
 SanfovinoV 
 
 S. Giacomo 
 della Giu- 
 decca. . 
 Large pillars. 
 
 ti Giefuati. 
 
 F E N I C E. 
 
 * called away to his eternal habitation, to the extreme grief of all his 
 ' countrymen, the great lols of the republic, leaving a glorious example 
 ' for the imitation of pofterity. He lived fixty years." 
 
 In the Capclla Cont arena are feveral good pidures by Giacomo Pahna.^ 
 and a marble flatue of the Doge Frajidfco Cotitarcni, with an infcription 
 under it. 
 
 In the garden belonging to this Frandjcan convent is a very plea- 
 fant grotto, beautifully adorned v/ith great variety of fljell-work. 
 
 The church of 5. Gcminiano, on St. Mark\ place, is remarkable only 
 on account of the following infcription on the tomb of the famous fculp- 
 tor Giacomo Sanfovi'io, who is interred there. 
 
 J AGO BO SANSOVINO F. qui Romce Julio 11. Lccni X. de- 
 menti VII. Pont. Max. maxime gratus, Venetiis Arcbite6liira Sculpturaque 
 intermortimm decus primus excitavit, quiqiie a Se?mtu ob cximiam -cirtutem 
 Viheralitcr honoratus, Jummo Civitatis mcerore decejjit, Francijctis F. hoc 
 M. P. D. Obiit V. Kal. Decembris M.D.LXX. 
 
 * To Giacomo Sanfovino, who was honoured with the favour and 
 
 * efteem of three popes, viz. Julius JI. Leo X. and Clonent VJI. at 
 
 * Rome, and firft revived the expiring honour of architedture and fculp- 
 ' ture at Venice -, where his flcill and virtues were honourably rewarded 
 ' by the fenate, and his death lamented by the whole city. This monu- 
 
 * ment was erected to him by his fon Francefco. lie died on the 27th 
 ' dzy oi November, 1570.' 
 
 The church of »S. Giacomo della Giudecca belongs to the Servites. Se- 
 veral beautiful ftatues of white marble are to be feen on the high altar; 
 and behind it are two very large pillars of yellow and red marble, above 
 twenty feet high, each of which is faid to be cut out of one block. 
 
 In the veftry of this church are fome pieces of painting by Ti?itoretto. 
 
 Li Giefuati were formerly a quite diftinft order from that of the Je~ 
 fiats, and a church in the Sefiiero di Dorfo duro- ftill retains their name. 
 But thefe monks being in the year 1669 expelled, and the order fup- 
 prefTed at Venice, the Dominicans got poffeffion of the church, and are 
 now very defirous that it fhould be called La Madonna del Rofario. There 
 are fome good paintings in this church; and alfo the following remarkable 
 epitaph. 
 
 A tc
 
 F E N I C E. 
 
 317 
 
 A tc Gran Re del del con puro core Eramier'/ tpi. 
 
 Confacro la piu degna e miglior parte ^ taph. 
 
 Come Faltra donai fill piu belfiore 
 
 In Servitio di Carlo al Jiero Marte. 
 
 Do alia F atria-, a gl' Amici ogni mio honor e 
 
 Nel cut fervitio oprai /' i?jgeg7io e l' arte. 
 
 Di gicvar ad cgn'iin fu il 7nio diletto 
 
 Benedetto Bramier da ogniin fid detto. 
 
 * To thee, great King of heaven, I confecrate, with a pure heart, the 
 ' nobler and better part of me, as I devoted the other from my bloom of 
 ' youth to the fervice of Charles my fovereign in the profeflion of arms. 
 * To my country and my friends, in whofe fervice I exerted the befl: of my 
 ' abilities, I bequeath all my honours. To oblige and do good to every 
 ' one was my delight, hence I was called Benedetto * Bramier! 
 
 The church of the Padri Giefiti^ or yefuits, has a fuperb front, Th; Jcfuit'c 
 adorned with a profufion of ftatues and fine pillars ; and the ornaments '''"'''^''^ 
 within this edifice is anfwerable to its outward beauty and elegance. The 
 walls between the pillars, the great altar, and the pulpit, are of white 
 marble inlaid with green, and embelliflied with flowers. The great 
 altar has fixteen twifted pillars of white and green marble. The fteps 
 and the pavement before it, are of yellow and green marble, and re- 
 femblc a beautiful carpet. The tabernacle is of Lapis lazuli. Among a 
 multitude of other fine pitftures with which this church is adorned, the 
 moft admired are the circumcilion and afcenfion by 'Tintoretto; the mar- 
 tyrdom of St. Laurence, by 'fitiano ; the beheading of John the Baptijt, 
 by old Pahna ; and the Virgin Mary vifiting her coufm Elizabeth, by 
 Andrea Schia.'vone. The veftry is entirely painted by Palma. A connoif- 
 feur in fculpture will be pleafed with the monuments of the Procurator 
 Priamo Legi, the Doge Pafquale Cicogna, and the Venetian General Ho- Mgnument:.. 
 ratio Farnefe, who is reprefented by a white marble flatue, with the fol- 
 lowing infcription : 
 
 HORATIO FARNESIO prajlantis animi ^ fummcs fpei Principi, 0/ Horatio 
 Tranfalpince militice PrcrfeBo, navalis viBorid ad Hellefponti fauces tro- P^*™**"^- 
 phtsis inclyto, 7ion avitam ?nodo, fed fimwioriim Diicimi gloriam ceqiiatiiro, nifi 
 Iniperatoria indolis jloretn fata ante diem rapuiffent ; Senatus ob navaiam 
 ftrenue operam, Remigefque ac Milites non femel a Duce Parmenfi ejufdent 
 Patre benigne tranfmifos, graft animi M. P. Anno M.DC.LXVL 
 
 * L s. Bleffed.. 
 
 " To.
 
 sin V E N 1 r E. 
 
 ' To Horatio Farneje.^ a prince of a noble fpirit and the greateH: 
 ' hopes, commander of the 'T'raj'ijalpine forces, celebrated for his naval 
 
 * victory near the Streights of Conjlantimpk. And who (had not the fates 
 ' cropp'd this flower of military virtue before its time) would certainly 
 ' have equall'd the glory, net only of his anceftors, but of the moft illuf- 
 ' trious commanders, this monument is eredled by the fenate, in con- 
 
 * fideration of his fervices ; and by the mariners and foldiers, in grati- 
 ' tude to the kind treatment they had more than once received from 
 ' the duke of P^r/7w, his father. 1666.' 
 
 This epitaph v/as compofed by Oltavio Ferrari, but is a little altered 
 by the author in his Infcriptiones and Rlcgia, 
 
 The epitaph of the Doge Cicogna is as follows : 
 
 tfiiafh of FAS)'£>VALIS CTCONI/E Vmetiarum Principis manoria fempi- 
 Do^eCicogna. f^j^j^^^ ^{ p^ji Rempiih. domi^ /oris, e dignitate adminijiratam., poji Cre- 
 tenfem Lifitlam, ciii per decenjiiiim fummo cum imperio prcefuit^ in navali ad 
 Echinadas prcelio iiicolumem rejervatam, qua ca:ijci Cydones illi Jlatuam in 
 foro E. C. Patrice fuce, tandem Princeps mira omnium cotifenjione creatus., 
 eam pariter per deceiinium tantd ajjiduitate & diiigefitid gubernavit, ut de 
 ejus commodis at que utilitatibm non prim jinem fecerit, quam animarn effla- 
 •verit, & ad Ji/peros, cum diu ataiiitati fuce interfm(Jet, fion fine cpijiicne 
 SanSiitatis e-volavit. Obiit die II. Aprilis M.D.XCV. JEtatis juce an. 
 LXXXF. Men/. X. die XXF. Principatus verofui IX. Men/. VII. D. XV.. 
 Pafchalis Ciconia exfratre nepos mcejiijjimm P. C. 
 
 * To the eternal memory oi Pafquale Cicogna, Doge Gi Venice ; who, 
 
 * after an honourable difcharge of the higheft employments, both at 
 ' home and abroad, and fecuring the ifland of Crete, of v.diich he was 
 ' ten years governor, by the naval vidory which he gained near the 
 ' Curxolaircs in the lojiian fea (on which account the inhabitants of 
 
 * Canea honoured him with a flatue in their public market-place) was 
 
 * at length created Doge of Venice, by the unanimous confent of all the 
 
 * fenate. He ruled his country likewife during ten years with fuch 
 ' care and vigilance, that his zeal for its profperity did not ceafe but 
 ' with his life, when he took his flight to heaven, leaving behind him 
 ' an eternal fame, and the reputation of uncommon fanftity. He died 
 ' on the fecond day of y^r//, 1595, aged eighty-five years, ten months, 
 ' and twenty-five days, and in the tenth year of his government. Paf- 
 
 * quale Cicogna, his brother's fon, eredted this monument as a mark of 
 ' his affedion.' 
 
 This
 
 VENICE, 319 
 
 This monument is the work of Campcigna, a celebrated fculptor and 
 architect. On one fide are thele words : 
 
 V^elut alter Simeon manibui Chrijlum excepit. 
 
 ' Like Simeon, he received Chrifl in his hands.' 
 
 This alludes to a fabulous flory of a confecrated wafer, which, in the 
 illand of Candia rofe up from the altar during mafs ; and. notwithftand- 
 ing all the prieft could do to bring it back, moved towards Cicogna, and 
 lodged itfelf in his hand. 
 
 On the other fide, the fame infcription is continued as follows : 
 
 Ef velut alter Daind Cretcs in Bello, Patnvio in Pejiilentia, & Patrice 
 in Fame prcejiofuit. 
 
 * And, like another David, he was as it were a tutelar deity to Crete 
 ' in v^ar, to Padua in a pefliilence, and to his country in a famine.' 
 
 The church of ^. Giobbe belongs to the Francifcans, and ftands in the S. Giobbe. 
 Scfticro di Canaregio. The moft valuable paintings in this church are 
 the nativity of Chrifl, by Gieronimo Brejfano ; the prefentation of the in- 
 fant ye'/i/^ in the temple, by Carpaccio y and fome others by Bellino, and 
 Carletto Calliari, Paolo Veronefe^ fon. 
 
 The pretended remains of St. Luke, which by a bull of pope Pius 11. Remains of 
 (which is alfo fliewn here) have been declared genuine, are kept in this ^'- Luke, 
 church : however, the Benediclines of St. Ginjlinas church in Padua 
 produce a like decree of pope Gregory XIII. in favour of St. Luke'?, re- 
 mains, which they pretend to have in their poflefiion. 
 
 In the cloyfter lies the confort of the Doge Nicolo Trono, of the Moro- Epitaph of 
 fini family, named Dca, which pofl'ibly is only an abbreviation of Doro-^^^''-"^ '"■''/'' 
 thea ; and on the pavement is the following epitaph to her memory : Trono^^ 
 
 DEM, rarijjimce mulieris, Illujlrijf. Dom. Nicolai Throfii inclyti Ducis 
 Veneti arum conjugis, humili hoc in loco corpus jujfu fuo condition eft ; ani- 
 mum ve?'o ejus propter liita virtutumque & morum fanSlitatem ad ccelejlein 
 patriam advoldje credendum eft. Anno Salutis M.CCCC.LXXVUI. 
 
 ' In this mean place, by her own diredlion, lies the mortal part of 
 ' Dea, a lady of uncommon merit and rare accomplidiments, and wit'e 
 * of the mod illuftrious lord Nicolo 'Trono, Doge of Fe?iice ; but from 
 ' her many virtues, and the fandity of her life, it may be affirmed, that 
 *- her fq^l has taken its flight to its native heaven. H?^-' 
 
 There:
 
 320 
 Renati do 
 
 Coii'vent of 
 S. Giorgio 
 Maggiore. 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 Here is alfo a fuperb maufoleum, erecfled in honour of Renauld i\e 
 Voyer Count / Argenfo?!, ambalTador extraordinary from the court of 
 France, who died at Vejuce before he had made his public entry. The 
 fculpture was executed hy Claude Per ravu, according to a draught brought 
 from Rome. On a large black marble pyramid, with which this ftruc- 
 ture is embelliflied, a large pompous epitaph, giving an account of his 
 family, (i?c. is to be feen in gold letters. He died in 165 1, and the 
 fifty-fifth year of his age. 
 
 In the chapter-room, which is in the firft court of the convent, is to 
 be ken the following infcription : 
 
 A. M. D. G. 
 
 Memoria 
 
 Excelfi ac Frcepotentis 'Domini 
 
 D. Renati de Voyer, 
 
 E Comitibtis de Paulmy 
 
 Comitis dArgenfon, 
 
 ChriJlianiJJimi Ludovici XIV. Regis 
 
 Ad Serenijfimam Remp. he gat i, 
 
 Cujus exta cippus hie habet. 
 
 Cor Gallia pojjidct. 
 
 Corpus in Maiijoleo jacet, 
 
 Fafna terras implet, 
 
 Anima ckUs atei-niim vivet. 
 
 Pluraji requiris viator 
 In Hemplo marmor dicet. 
 
 '■ iTo the memory of the high and puiflant lord D. Renauld de Voyef 
 ' Count dArgenfon, defcended from the Counts de Paulmy, ambaffador 
 ' from his Mort; Chriftian Majefty Lewis XIV. to the moft ferene repub- 
 ' lie of Venice. His bowels are interred in this grave, his heart lies in 
 
 * France, his body in the maufoleum, his fame fills the earth, and his 
 
 * foul enjoys eternal life in heaven. Traveller, if thou defirefl to know 
 
 * more of this great man, the marble monument in the church will in- 
 ' form thee.' 
 
 Oppofite to St. Mark's place lies the convent of S. Giorgio Maggiore, 
 on the ifland of the fame name, where eighty BenediBine monks con- 
 flantly refide. Here is a fine walk of two hundred and nine common 
 paces in length, which yields a mofl beautiful profpedl. This convent 
 is alfo remarkable for a grand flair-cafe, built by horighena, a famous 
 5 architedf,
 
 VENICE. 321 
 
 architeft, whofe buflo flands over the main entrance of the library : 
 and on the wall, on one lide of it, is the following infcription : 
 
 * Facilem babes, Hofpes, 
 
 Ajcenfum 
 
 TJt dtfcas, 
 
 j4d ardtios cadi apices 
 
 Modico lahore 
 
 Pervenire. 
 
 ' Stranger, the afcent to this repofitory of knowledge is eafy and 
 ' gentle : hence thou mayeft learn, that the lofty heights of heaven, of 
 * which this is an emblem, may be afcended with moderate labour aad 
 ' induftry." 
 
 On the other fide are thefe words : 
 
 ^lifquis hos gradus premis 
 
 Vitia quoque calca. 
 
 Sic tibi ex piaculii 
 
 Novo more 
 
 Scalam faciei 
 
 Ad ccelutn. 
 
 ' Whoever thou art that treadeft thefe fleps, let it remind thee to 
 ' trample alfo in the fame manner on vice ; fo flialt thou make a ladder 
 ^ of thy crimes, by which thou mayefl: afcend to heaven.' 
 
 In the middle is to be feen the following date : 
 
 M. DC. XL IK 
 
 This library has three doors, is of a confiderable length, and is adorned 1;^^ 
 "with two rows of pillars, which fupport a gallery that goes all round it. 
 
 Near the cieling are the ftatues of feveral perfons who diflinguiflied 
 themfelves by their learning, cut in wood. Though the collection of 
 books is nothing extraordinary ; yet this library is the fineft in all Venice. 
 The fymbolical paintings on the cieling are by the two Giovanni Va- 
 lo7-o/iy Giov, Coli, and Filippo Ghcrardi, a native of Lucca. 
 
 In the refeftory or dining-hall, is a piece of painting ^y Paolo Vero- -pamousfiaut^ 
 7ieje, reprefenting the marriage at Cana, which, both for fize and \}c\e.'ntherejca!i- 
 execution, is reckoned one of the moft celebrated pieces in the world. '^* 
 
 * Thefe infcriptions have nothing to recommend them but what the Ualiam call Cm- 
 :(tti, or playing upon words ; which kind of wit is generally loft in the trandation. 
 
 Vol. III. Tt The 
 
 brary.
 
 322 
 
 F E N 1 C E. 
 
 The depth of it is two-and-thii ty feet, and in length it takes up one 
 fide of the refeftory entirely. The figures in this piece amount to a 
 hundred and twenty ; but the bridegroom and bride cannot be diflin- 
 guiflied from their guefts : however., the painter has taken care to repre- 
 fent himfelf among the latter, playing on a mufical inftrument, and his 
 brother with a glafs of wine in his hand. The faces of the other 
 guefts, for the moft part, reprefent feme of the BetiediSfine monks at 
 that time living in the convent. As the Italians., when they would com- 
 mend any piece of painting as very extraordinary, ufually fay, that 
 Lewis XIV. of France., or Augujlus king of Poland, offered a vaft fum of 
 money for it; but that it was refufed. So they tell us, that the king of 
 
 It.' value. France would have been glad to have covered this pidure with Louis- 
 d'ors, if the monks would have parted with it. But all the artift had 
 from the convent for painting this piece amounted only to three hun- 
 dred ducati d'argento, and a cafk of wine. He was a whole year about 
 it, during which time he was in this afylum on account of a murder he 
 had committed in the city. Vanni has publiflied a copper-plate of this 
 
 Fault in it. piece on two llieets of imperial paper. One fault which ihe critics find 
 with this pifture is, that, in fuch a numerous company, few feem to 
 take any notice of the miraculous change of water into v.'ine ; and that 
 little or no furprife or emotion is exprefled in the countenances of thofe 
 few. 
 
 Garden. The garden belonging to this convent is large, and well laid out in 
 
 ever-green hedges, and with long covered walks interwoven with vines, (ic. 
 
 Church. The church has an elegant front oi Pietra Iftriana, built from a de- 
 
 fign of Palladio. And among other marble ftatues by Vicentino with 
 which it is adorned, thofe of St. Stephen and St. George are accounted 
 the befl. 
 
 At the entrance of the church are the monuments of two Doges, 
 namely, Tribuno Memi, and Sebajiiano Ziani. On the firfl is this in- 
 fcription : 
 
 Epitaph of Memoria TRlBVNI MEMI optimi Principis, qui faSiojis Urbe 
 
 Tribuni pulfis, inde Ottonis II. Ccefaris odio mirifice ehifo de eadem ubique promeri- 
 
 tiis, ut ceternam eamque certiorem adipifceretur gloriam, abdicate imperio 
 
 banc injulam Monachus tJicoluit ac ejufdeni Injlituti Viris pie legavit. Iidem 
 
 grati animi ergo pojuere M.DCX. Decejjit DCCCCXCII. 
 
 * To the memory of "Tribiino Memi, who, among many other emi- 
 '. nent fervices by which he deferved highly of the ftate, drove a danger- 
 • ous fadion from the city, and with wonderful prudence averted the 
 ' hatred of the emperor Otho II. Afterwards having in view an eternal 
 
 * and
 
 ■32 
 
 o 
 
 V E N ICE. 
 
 * and more certain glory, he abdicated the ducal throne, and lived a 
 ' monaftic life in this ifland, which he devoutly bequeathed to the monks 
 ' of the fame order, who, in gratitude to their founder, ereded this mo- 
 
 * nument in the year 1610. He died in the year 992.' 
 
 On the fecond are thefe words : 
 
 Memorice SEBASTIANI ZIANT iwo'i^i Duels, cnjus nrmis fraEld o/Sebafliano 
 priiis Friderici /Enobarb. Caf. pcrtinacid mox qfficiis dclinitd, cimdetn inter '^"'' 
 fe & Alexatjdrum III. Pontif. Max. pacis urbitriwi voluit, qud nutans 
 Chrifliana Refp. tandem jublato dijjidio conquievit. Monachi pluribus obJlriSli 
 beneficiis, celebriori loco monumentwn r-ejlituere M.DC.X. 
 
 ' To the memory of Seba/liano Ziani, a renowned warrior, who hav- 
 
 * ing by his bravery humbled the obftinacy of the emperor Frederick 
 ' BarbaroJJa, and afterwards winning him by courtefy, became the me- 
 
 * diator of a peace betwixt that monarch and pope Alexander III. fo that 
 ' by the accommodation of thefe differences, the tranquility of Chrijleti- 
 ' dom, which had been long torn by facftions, was at length reftored. 
 ' The monks, in confideration of his many favours, have rebuilt his 
 
 * monument in a more confpicuous place in the year 1610.' 
 
 Thefe two infcriptions, like many others, are very defeftive in 
 Miffon. 
 
 The Doge Domenico Michieli has likewlfe a fuperb monument in this 
 church. 
 
 At the fiege of Tyre, the Venetian fleet being in want of money, this '^" «''«"■'' 
 Doge ordered counters, made of leather, to pafs current till they fliould 
 be called in and difcharged. Thefe pieces went by the name of AfzV/'t'- 
 lotti; and in memory of this tranfadlion, his defcendants to this day bear 
 a gold coin in their arms. 
 
 The flails of the monks in the choir are admirably carved, and repre- Sadpturt. 
 fent the life of St. BcjiediSi, with the palaces, temples, gardens, animals, 
 and landfcapes occurring in his hiftory. The whole is faid to have 
 been done by Albert Van Bride, a Flemming, when he was in the twenty- 
 fifth year of his age. The pavement of the choir is of fine inlaid work 
 of marble. 
 
 The higl\altar is infulated or detached from the wall, and of very cu- •L'-'i'i'e mag- 
 rious marble. On it fland four brafs flatues of the evangelifls, whicji ''' 
 fupport a large globe of copper, gilt, over which is rcprefented God the 
 Father. This piece was caft by Girolamo CampagJia. 
 
 On the altar of the virgin Mary is a fine marble flatue, which deferves 
 notice. 
 
 T t 2 The
 
 324 F E N I C E. 
 
 Pai>tii'>gs, y}^2 martvriiom of St. Stephen., whofc body, as the monks pretend, Is 
 
 prelerved in this church; Manna fahing from heaven ; the Lord's fupper ; 
 a Defcent from the crofs, and fome other fine pidlures to be feen here-, 
 were painted by 'Tintoretto. The birth of Chrift, which is looked upon 
 as one of the beft pieces painted by Gincomo Bq//am, who is commonly 
 known by the name of /// Bafflmo Vecchio, deferves the attention of a 
 curious traveller. 
 
 Tretendidmi- On the firfl altar on the right-hand near the entrance, the cavaliere 
 
 racle lu-otight J[,e-andro da Baffhno has painted the miracle which was wrought in favour. 
 
 ^/. Luaa ^^ ^^' L'ii"^-> whom feveral oxen could not draw from her feat to a 
 houfe of iH fame, where an afiault on her virtue was intended. 
 
 Hard by the Capclla magglore ftands the altar of Vincenzo Moro[im\ 
 which is embelliflied with pillars of white and violet-colour marble, 
 the veins of which reprefent the heads of men, birds, and fifhes. To 
 find out the laft, indeed, a ftrong imagination is required ; but the body 
 of a man, with his arms flretchcd, and legs let clofe together, may 
 be plainly diftinguiflied on this variegated marble ; and though nothing 
 like a crofs is to be feen near it, yet it commonly pafTes for a reprefenta- 
 tion of our Saviour on the crofs. Aldrc-candi has given a wooden print of 
 it, in his Mufeiim MetaUicum, p. 759, where he alfo gives a tedious 
 defcription of the reprefentations of the virgin Mary, Ibme of the monkiHi 
 
 A natural orders> dogs, cats, birds, (iff. to be feen in variegated marble. Another 
 
 crucifix in mar- {x^^^^ a Chimerical reprefentation of our Saviour on the crofs I likewife ob- 
 ferved in Notre Dame at Paris, on a pillar of white marble with fpots of 
 red and grey, behind the high altar; and it is affirmed that forty thoufand 
 livres have been refufed for that curious piece ; for it may be fuppofed that 
 fo rich an archbiOiop as that of Paris would not fell a curiofity of this 
 kind. Whether art has always been affifling to nature in producing 
 fuch pieces, I will not pretend to fay ; but that this is really the cafe 
 with regard to the eyes and nofe of a large death "s head, reprefented by 
 various colours in the veins of a piece of marble on the altar of the church 
 of S, Giorgio fnaggiore can hardly be called into queflion. 
 
 S. Giofeppe. S. Giofeppe, in SeJIiero di S. Marco, belongs to the Auguftine nuns. 
 The pifture of the nativity of Chrifl, over the high altar, is the work 
 of Paolo Veronefe, and was done at the expence of Gieronimo Gritnani, 
 procurator of St. Mark. The fame benefador alfo embellifhed the Ca- 
 pella Maggiore with feveral ornaments. He lies buried, and has a fine 
 monument, with an extravagant epitaph, in the fame chapel. 
 
 Church of St. In the church of S. Giovanni Evangelifia are to be feen fome elegant 
 
 John the fepulchral monuments belonging to the Badoaro family, with epitaphs 
 
 i^angehjh jn the ufual Itrain. 
 
 The
 
 F E N I C E. 325 
 
 The church dedicated to St. yohn and St. Paul may be looked upon as^''"?'"'" '" ^f- 
 the iineft in /-'tv/ZtV for exquilite paintings, which are the works ^^ ^^^ p^y^'""hJ'il 
 following celebrated mafters, 'viz. Paliiia., Vivarim, Titiajio, Paolo Ve- 
 ra?3rfe, Polydoro di Caravagio, 'Tintoretto^ Jlndrea Cortona, Leotiardo Co- 
 rona, Santo Peranda, the two Ba[fani, Matthco Ingoli of RaiK'nna, Li- 
 bert., Bcllino, &c. But among all thefe, the martyrdom of Peter Mar- 
 tyry the Dominica?! monk, is reckoned the beft; and it mufl be owned 
 that nothing can cxxeed the exprelfion of the various paffions in the 
 countenances of the perfons prefent. Whether it be Titian's mafter- Titian'^ .w«- 
 piece I cannot pretend to determine ; but this is certain, that none oi-^^'''^'""' 
 his pieces that are now extant are fo much valued and admired. 
 
 In this church are to be feen a great number of fepulchral monuments •S'/^/^c/. 
 of feveral Doges, and other famous perfonages, among whom, four 
 have been honoured by the republic with ftatues on their tombs ; but 
 thefe ftatues are only of wood : however, the horfe on Horatio Balleoni's 
 monument is reckoned a mafterpiece in fculpture. 
 
 Among the Doges buried here, are Pietro and Giovanni Mocenigo, 
 and Leonardo Laurcdauo, whole elegant monuments defeirve particular 
 notice, on account of the beauty of the fculpture. 
 
 Pietro s, epitaph is as follows 1 
 
 P E TR MO CE NIG Leonardi F. ofnnibiis non minus optimi quant infcripthn on- 
 eloquent ijjimi Senatoris muneribus domi Jorifque funBo, maris Imperatori, ".'^^''° 1^°^^- 
 S^ui, A fid a faucibus Hellejponti iijque in Syrian ferro ignique va/latd, Ca- " 
 ramannis Regibus, Venetorum Jocits, ab Ottomanno opprejjis, Reg?2o re/lituto, 
 Piratis undique fublatis, C)pro a conjuratis non minori celeritate quam pru- 
 dentia receptd, Scodrd duBu & aufpiciis fuis obfidione liber at a, cum rempubl. 
 Jeliciter gejjiffet, ahfens D. Marci Procurator, inde Dux grato Patrum 
 conftnfu creatus eft. Johannes tertius ab hoc Dux, & Nicolaus Mocenici, 
 fraJres pientijjimi B. M. D. Vixit annos LXX. MenJ. I. Dies XX. Obiii 
 non fine fummo popidi gemitu, Ducatus Jtii anno primo, menfe fecwidoy 
 die Xr. Antio Salutis M.CCCC.LXXFI. 
 
 ' To Pietro Mocenigo, fon of Leonardo, a moll eloquent and worthy 
 ' fenator and admiral, who, after having difcharged, both at home and 
 
 * abroad, all the duties of the feveral pofts he was inverted with, 
 *■ when Afia, from the ftraits of Confiantinoble as far as Syria, had been 
 
 * laid wafte with fire and fword, reftored the kings oi Caramannia, the 
 
 * allies of the Venetians, who had been- opprelfed by the Ottoman em- 
 
 * peror, to their kingdom; extirpated the pirates; recovered Cyprus ixova.. 
 
 * the rebels, G?f. was, in regard to thefe his glorious aftions, created 
 ' procurator of St. Mark in his abfcnce, and afterwards, with the una- 
 
 5 ' nimous;
 
 326 VENICE. 
 
 ' nimous confcnt of the fenators, chofen Doge. Giovanni the third 
 
 ' Dcge after him, and Nicolo Mocenigo, his moft afteftioriate brothers, 
 
 • eredted this to his memory. He lived feventy years, orie month, and 
 
 ' twenty days ; and died, to the great grief of the people, thirteen months 
 
 ' and fifteen days after he had been created Doge.' 
 
 Leonardo Girolatno Ciwipagna has given a noble fpecimen of his fl<ill in fculp- 
 
 Lauredani. j-^^j.^ q;^ (j^g tomb of La)narilo Laureda7ii. 
 
 Marco Anto- Tlic iTcin of the unfortunate Marco Antonio Bragadeni, who, after 
 nio Braga- the taking of fort Faniagiijia in Cyprus in the year 1571, was flayed alive 
 dcmsjkm. ^^ [hcTurks, Contrary to the articles of capitulation, lies in a beautiful 
 marble tomb, with this infcription : 
 
 ' MARC I ANTON II BRAGADENI dum pro Fide & Patria 
 bello Cvprio Salamine contra I'lircas conjlairter fortiterqiie cur am principem 
 fuflineret^ longd ohfidione 'viSli a perjida hoftis manu, ipfo vivo ac intrepidc 
 Jicffere?ite, detract a pellis. Anno falutis M.D.LXXI. XV. Kal. Septembr, 
 Antonii Fratris opera & impe7ifd hue adveSta \ atqm hlc a Marco, Her- 
 molao, Antofiioque filiis picntifjimis ad fummi Dei., Parice Paternique nomi- 
 ■nis gloriam Jempiternum pojita. Anno Salutis M.D.XCVI. Vixit annos 
 XLVI. 
 
 * Here is depofited the fkin of Marco Antonio Bragadeni, who fo glo- 
 ' rioufly fignalized his courage and fidelity in the wars of Cyprus, as go- 
 ' vernor of Salamis ; and being, after a long fiege, conftrained to fur- 
 ' render, \^as flayed alive by the perfidious 'Turks, which he bore with 
 ' uncommon patience and fortitude. It was brought hither at the fole 
 ' expence of, and by the generous care of his brother Antonio on the 
 ' 1 8th oi Auiuft, 1571 ; and his dutiful fons placed it here to the glory 
 ' of God, and the eternal honour of their country and family. He lived 
 ' forty-fix years.' 
 
 Bragadeni not only bore the many previous tortures *" inflifted on him 
 by the Barbarians, but alfo the cruel death to which he was put, with 
 the greatell conflancy. Such was the favage fury of Mujlapha the Otto- 
 ■ man General, that he caufed the fkin of this unhappy vidim to be 
 fluffed with flraw, and, by way of indignity, to be tied on the back of 
 a cow, and carried through the flreets of Salamis in proceffion under a 
 -red umbrella -f- which Bragadeni made ufe of when he viewed the forti- 
 
 * As foon as he fell into the hands of the Turks, Mujlapha, their general, ordered his 
 cars to be cut off. 
 
 t Parnta della Guerra dl Cipro,, lib. ii, p. 145. 
 
 3 fications.
 
 VENICE. 327 
 
 ficatlons. After this he hung it at the yard-arm of a fliip as a trophy, 
 then carried it in triumph through Syria, and at laft brought it to 
 Conllantimplc, \v\\gxc Bragadcni's, friends purchafed it, but not without an 
 extravagant ranfom. 
 
 All that could be colledted of the other parts of his body is buried in 
 St. Gregorys church, in Stjliero di Dorjo duro ; and on a pillar in the Ca- 
 pclla Maggiore, is the following infcription : 
 
 Marci A?itonii Bragadcni FreefeSli infignes rcliquice. 
 
 ' The honoured remains of General Marco Antonio BragadetiiJ 
 
 Above the veflry door are the monuments of the celebrated Titian, 
 and the two Palmar. Leatidro Bajfano and Fialetti have painted feveral 
 paffages of St. Dominic's life, and others are reprefented in hajjo-relievo, 
 on bronze, in the chapel of this faint. A little further, on the right- 
 hand, is a beautiful monument, of an uncommon fize, on which three 
 flatues of white marble reprefcnt the Doge Bertucci Valeri, his fon Syl- 
 "vejiro Valeri, and the wife of the latter. 
 
 On the left-hand, near the high-altar, is a pidure reprefenting the Paintings. 
 battle fought between the Turks and Venetians near the Dardanels, in 
 the year 1656, the day after the feflival of St. John and St. Paul. It 
 was painted by yofepb Eniiiis, a native of Aiigjl'urg, in the year 1657. 
 Bertucci Valicri, who was then Doge, together with feveral fenators, 
 kneeling before the holy Trinity, the Virgin Mary, St. '^ohn, and St. 
 Paul, are reprefented in this piece. 
 
 In the Capclla del Rofario are beautiful pieces of fculpture in marble, 
 and very good paintings. The outfide of the church is decorated with 
 curious baffb-relievds, reprefenting fruit, flowers, (iff. Facing the church CoIkoniV mo. 
 flands a brafs cqueltrian fliatue of Bartolomeo Collconi, made by Andrea ^^"'^>"- 
 del Verrochio of Florence, The life of this warrior is written by his 
 countryman Pietro Spina. On one fide of the pedeflal of the ftatue are 
 thefe words : 
 
 Bartholomcto Colkono Bergomenfi ob militare imperium optimc geftum. 
 
 ' In honour of Bartholomeo Collconi, a native of Bergamo, as a monu- 
 ' ment of his vidories and military glory.' 
 
 On the other fide : 
 
 S. C. Jobanne Maiiro (^ Marimo Venerio Curatoribus, Ann. Sal. 
 MCCCCLXXXXV. 
 
 Colkoni's
 
 s> 
 
 328 
 
 Ridiculous 
 arms. 
 
 Some account 
 of Andrea 
 Verrochio. 
 
 3. H 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 Con'veHt. 
 
 Paintings in 
 the rejtdories. 
 
 Kum'oer vf 
 monks. 
 
 Library. 
 
 Co/It'ovi's coat of arms, which is to be feen on his monument, confifts 
 of three Coglio?it, or tefticles. 
 
 Andrea Verrochio was a difciple of Do77atcllo. He was an excellent 
 painter, architecft, mathematician, mufician, and goldfmith, and was 
 the firfl who preferved the likenefs of perfons after they were dead, in a 
 ];ind of model, for painting their portraits. The equeftrian ftatue cf 
 Collcciii does him great honour ; but fome connoiffeurs find fault with 
 the horfe, which, contrary to the natural motion of quadrupeds, lifts up 
 two feet at once on the fame fide. The fame fault is found with the 
 horfe on the monument erefted to "John Aciito [Sharp) a native of Eng- 
 land, and General of the Pifans in the cathedral at Florence ; as alfo in 
 the four celebrated horfes on St. Mark\ church at Venice, which are 
 faid to have been brought from Conjlantinople. But no general rule can 
 be formed with regard to this pofture, and feveral horfes move in that 
 manner which has been fo much cenfured in the excellent pieces 
 above-mentioned. 
 
 In the cloifter round the Dominican convent, to which St. 'John and 
 St. Faul\ church belongs, are feveral tombs of beautiful marble and 
 porphyry. The bufto's of the moft celebrated perfons of the Dominican 
 order are fet up over the windows and doors. In the lower ftory is the 
 old refedory, or hall, adorned with feveral fine pieces of painting. There 
 are two new refeftories, in one of which the monks dine on feftivals, 
 and in the other on meagre days, both in the upper flory. In the former 
 is a fine pidlure by Taolo Veroneje, reprefenting our Saviour at an enter- 
 tainment in the houfe of Simon the leper. It is painted on canvas, and 
 was once torn into three pieces to fecure it from being burnt. Another 
 piece reprefents Mary Magdalene wiping our Saviour's feet with her 
 hair, while he was at table, which deferves particular notice, though 
 this piece is only a copy; for the original was painted by Faolo Veronefe, 
 and lent to France. In the other new refectory Petro delta Vecchia has 
 painted the martyrdom of St. 'John and St. Paul. 
 
 Ninety monks are conftantly maintained in this convent ; but the 
 whole number, including the travelling and extraordinary monks fup- 
 ported by this foundation, amounts to a hundred. The library is ele- 
 gant, and the books in good order. It is adorned with fome fculpture 
 in wood, and feveral flatues on the cornices. The difpenfary ot this 
 fpaclous and beautiful convent is likewife extremely well furniflied, and 
 kept in the belt order. 
 
 In the Capella di S. Maria della Pace, whicfi belongs to this convent, 
 is a beautiful altar and fome good pieces of painting by BaJJano, Car- 
 paccio. and Andrea Celefti, a Venetian. 
 
 The
 
 VENICE. 329 
 
 The church of ^. GhiUano in the Scftierodi S. Marco, has fbme goodS- Giuliano. 
 pictures, one of which, rcprefenting St. Chrijlcpher, is afcribed to Arito- 
 uelli Mamerti?7i , who, according to fome, was the firfl; inventor of the 
 method of painting in oil-colours. The beautiful marble front of this 
 church was defigned by SmTJovino. 
 
 The church of S. Giujlina in the Sejliero di Caflelh has a moft elegants. Giullina, 
 front of Iftrian ftone, defigned by Bciltafare Longhefia, and decorated with 
 pillars, ftatues, &c. The high altar confifts of curious marble, por- 
 phyry, and ferpentine. The four pillars on it are of white marble, in- 
 laid with foliages and flowers. 
 
 The tabernacle is made with coral, agate, cornelian, znd lapis lazuli ^ The tabernacle. 
 and has fixteen pillars of curious red jafper. It cofl fifteen thoufand 
 ducats. 
 
 Here are alfo two flatues oi Parian marble, rcprefenting Thomas Aqui- Statua. 
 vas and St. Peter. The former is the work ol Aiitonio Lomhardo, and 
 the latter of Paolo Milattejc. 
 
 The paintings in this church dtlerve particular notice. In the wall is hnpvcff.on of 
 to be feen a ftone, upon which St. 'Jujiiiia once kneeled dov/n to pray, ^'- J"'t'"^'j 
 
 , . 1 1 , r 1 • o- r 1 I knee qk a ftone. 
 
 and, as is pretended, lert the unpreuion or her knee. 
 
 In the ifland of St. Helena, is a church belonging to the white Olivetan 
 monks, which is commonly called St. Lena. It contains the monuments 
 of feveral famous perfonages. 
 
 The four principal hofpitals in Venice, are, i. SS. Giovanni e Paolo ; HoffUaU. 
 2. Spedale de gl' Incurahili ; 3. 5. Lazaro de Mendicauti ; and 4. Spedale 
 dellaPietii; where not only foundlings, but other poor children, and even 
 grown-up perfons are taken in. Some of the girls are inftrudted in mufic, 
 and attain to great flcill not only in finging, but alfo in playing on the vio- 
 lin, organ, hautboy, theorbo, and other inftruments. Every Saturday and 
 Sunday, very fine pieces of mufic are performed in the churches of thefe 
 hofpitals, which begin about two hours before fun-fet. A perfon gives two 
 or three pence at fuch times for a chair or convenient feat. The young 
 women, who are the only performers in thefe concerts, appear in pubLc 
 but twice a year, when they walk abroad with their inftrudors. They 
 are not permitted to quit the hofpital, except it be to be married : and 
 even then it is with difficulty they obtain leave of the hofpital, becaufe 
 it is not an eafy matter to fill their places; befides, the care and expence 
 of their education is very confiderable. Bologna is the finefl: voice at prc- 
 fent in the Pieta hofpital, and Tere/ia in that of the Memlicanti. The 
 republic allows a falary for a mufic mafter to every one of thefe four 
 hofpitals. And the mofl: celebrated rnuficians do not think the office be* 
 neath their acceptance. 
 
 Vol. III. U u The
 
 o 
 
 3<^ 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 Si. Lazaio. The church of the Spedale dc Mcnd'uonti is dedicated to St. Lazarus. 
 Over the entrance is an infcription on marble, in honour of Loren-zo Del- 
 Jiiii, to whom, when governor of Padua, the inhabitants of that place 
 ereded a ftatue, in acknowledgment of the many benefits they received 
 from him during his adminiftration. But the mofl: remarkable thing in 
 St. Lazarus s church, which is, indeed, far from being defpicable, is 
 the monument oi Aloyfio Mocenigo, which is as wide as the whole front ; 
 fo that one in going up this church muft pafs under it, as if it were 3 
 triumphal arch. It is adorned with a great number of bkck marble 
 pillars; and the whole monument has fomething extremely grand and 
 llriking. On the left-hand, at the entrance, is this infcription : 
 
 Ne molem, quam ceniis, 
 
 Maujolewn futa, SpeStator, 
 
 Triumphus hie ejt, qui Creta pofitiis 
 
 ALOrSlO MOCENICO, 
 
 D. Marci Procuratori, 
 
 Hue per civium laerymas advedius ejl, 
 
 D. Marcus So/pit ator, 
 
 ^i Mocenicce genti 
 
 SuumjuJJit mi li tare Leofiem, 
 
 In Aloyfio vel extinSlo riigit^ 
 
 Gives illiiis exemplo 
 
 Ad gloriam provocaturus. 
 
 Hie Maris Mars, terra terror, 
 
 Veneta Clajjis bis Imperator, 
 
 Patria femper /a/us, 
 
 Religione, Conjilio, Pietate, 
 
 Bellied virtute clarijjimus 
 
 Habet tot doeumenta, 
 
 A Turcis Jefu, Bettheemi, Martinenghi, Vitturi., 
 
 D. Demetrii propugnaeula 
 
 Pene expugnata propugnavit. 
 
 D. I'heodori Turluli munitnenta 
 
 Ex unguibus hoftium evulfit. 
 
 ^hracum Clajfes viBoriarum aura tumidas 
 
 Adverfum Martem pati nefeias^ 
 
 Cladibus adjuejcere docuit, 
 
 Parvdque manu profigatai 
 
 Toto JEgeo profugas egit. 
 
 ' Think
 
 VENICE. 
 
 ' Think not the ftrudure thou beholdeft: to be a monument : It is 
 
 ' that triumph, which was firft raifed at Crete to Aloyfio Mocenigo, pro- 
 
 ' curator of St. M/r^, and was wafted hither by the tears of his fellow 
 
 • citizens. St. Mark, our patron faint and protedlor, bequeathed his 
 ' warlike lion to the i^.m\\y oi Mocefiigo, which ftill feems to roar in 
 ' Aloyfio, though dead, in order to incite the citizens to glory by his il- 
 ' luftrious example. This Mars of the fea, this terror of the land, who 
 ' was twice commander in chief of the Venetian fleet, and always the 
 ' defender of his country, was equally diftinguidied for his military ta- 
 ' lents, his prudence, devotion, and aftedion to his countiy. He gave 
 
 * fignal proofs of his bravery by fuccefsfully defending feveral places of 
 ' importance againfl the powerful afiaults of the Turks, and by difpof- 
 ' fefTing them of others. The Thracian fleets^ elate with frequent vic- 
 ' tories, and unufed to lofTes, he humbled by frequent defeats, and with 
 ' a fmall number of fliips drove them before him, and fcattered them all 
 ' over the Archipelago.' 
 
 On the right-hand this infcriptioh is continued in the following 
 words : 
 
 Ajfaniun Bajfatn Babilonice dofniforeiH 
 
 Interfecit, 
 
 Natalinuju Furlanum 
 
 Ottomannarum na'uium moderatoreiH 
 
 A Chrijlo Venetifqne transfugam 
 
 Catenis onera'vit. 
 
 Turcarum cunicidis laceratd Cretd 
 
 Per murorum hiatus 
 
 Se in urbem hofte cffundente, 
 
 Perterritos duces, plorantes cives, 
 
 Milites abeuntes revocavit. 
 
 Sclus fenex ferreum fe murum objiciem 
 
 Ho/ies percecidet, fogavit. 
 
 Veneto Imperio in una urbe 
 
 Tot urn regnum rcjlituit. 
 
 Nejcio Romanum Mefellum^ 
 
 An Venetum Aloyfnan 
 
 Cretenjis vocabulo aptiiis hmeftes. 
 
 Ilk Regnum domuit ; Hie affeYuif. 
 
 Hinc d Cretettfi Senatu Populoque 
 
 Aureo cereoque numijmate donatus ejh 
 
 ' U u 2 Trium^ 
 
 331
 
 3^2 ^ P^ B N I C E. 
 
 Triumfihcrum pkiius 
 
 Pahneiin accepturus chiit 
 
 ylnno MDCLW. Menje Oacbrh die XFII. 
 
 Aloyjhn ©" Petrm D. M. Procuratores 
 
 Ex Tepamcnto Commijfarii 
 Magm Patruo hcrytnabimdi pofuete. 
 
 ' He flew the Bafhaw Hnjfati, famous for Ills conquefl: of Babylon. 
 
 * He took prilbner and fent home \n chains Natalino Furlam, a Venetian 
 ' venegado, who was admiral of the Ottoman fleet. When the Turks by 
 ' fpringing a mine had made a breach in the walls of Candia, and came 
 ' pouring into the city, fo that the befieged gave thcmfelves up to de- 
 ' fpair, the military officers were terrified, and the foldiers fought their 
 ' fafety by flight ; he comforted and animated the former, and rallied 
 
 ^^ :■ • the latter : For this brave old man oppofed himfelf like a bulwark of 
 
 ' iron, repulfed the enemy with great flaughter, and, by preferving 
 ' the metropolis, reftored the whole ifland of Candia to the Venetian 
 
 * government. If we compare the Roman Metellus with the Venetian 
 
 * Aloyfio^ it will be difficult to determine which of the two heroes befl: 
 
 * deferved the honourable title of Cretenjis. The former conquered the 
 
 * kingdom ; but the latter refcued it from flavery ; for which fignal fer- 
 
 * vice he was prefented with two medals, one of gold and the other of 
 
 * copper, by the Cretans. After fo many vidlories and triumphs, he 
 ' went to receive an immortal palm on the 17th A^lj oi OSlober, 1654. 
 ' Aloyfio and PietrOy procurators of St. Mark, erefted this monument to 
 
 * their illuftrious uncle, as a mark of their tender afl:edion.' 
 
 Under the ftatues of Courage and Prudence, which are to be feen on 
 this monument, is alfo an hiftorical account of the moft remarkable 
 adions of the deceafed. 
 
 There are likewife feveral monuments belonging to the families of 
 Capello, Mora, &c. and a good coUedlion of pidlures in this church. 
 The front of it was built from a defign of Sardi. 
 S. Leone. In St. Leone's church, in the Seftiero di Cajiello, are feveral pieces painted 
 
 by Palma and Pietro Vecchio. Over the entrance of the veflry are thefe 
 words : 
 
 ANDRE M
 
 VENICE. 
 
 ZZZ 
 
 AND REM P ISAM I, Petri filii, 
 
 Flebile fat urn illacrymat faxiim Epitaph of 
 
 r^j^ 1 ^- 1 A , ■' ■„■ , , Andrea Pi- 
 
 h,t lapiaea voce portat tlhus laudes, fani, 
 
 Sluod pietas, morum candor, civile s elegantice, 
 
 Et jura amicitia illibata 
 
 Cum illo interiere 
 
 Anno M.DC.LXIX. Mefife Mojo Die XXIX. 
 
 ' This ftone laments the death of Andrea Pifaiio, the fon of Pietro ; 
 < and though it be filent, yet it fpeaks his praife ; for piety, candour, 
 . ' elegance of manners, and fincere friendfliip, died with Pijano on the 
 * 29th day of May, j 669.' 
 
 St. Lorenzo is a convent of Benedi5iine nuns, in which the chief of S. Lorenzo, 
 the nobility place their daughters and fifters, and confequently it may be ^':" ^''^'"^ "■f 
 ■_, fuppofed that the hfe of thefe nuns is none of the moft auflere. They 
 go about the convent without veils; and thdr par/oirs, though fecured 
 with thick iron grates like a prifon, feldom want very fprightly company. 
 Thefe ladies are feventy in number. Among their reliques in this ReJigues. 
 convent, they fliew a coif, which they pretend the virgin Mary wore. 
 In the church are very fine pieces of fculpture in marble, and feveral 
 pidlures by Pa/ma, 'Tintoretto, and Giro/amo Pilotti. 
 
 In St. Luke's church was formerly to be feen the monument of Pietro S. Luca. 
 Aretino, who, on account of the poignancy of his wit in fatirifing ^'^"'° '^■■*- 
 the great, was called Fiageilum Principum; but his diflblute life and ^uhgra'u;. 
 atheiftical writings have left an indelible ftain on his memory ; though 
 Ariojio^ in his Orlando Furiofo, fays of him : 
 
 Ecco iljlagello 
 
 Dei Principi, il divin Pietro Aretino * ! 
 
 * Behold the fcourge of princes, the divine Aretino I ' 
 
 Spezelino 
 
 * On this exalted epithet, fo ill beftowed on fuch. a vicious debauchee, Gnddi, a famous '*** " 
 Florentine writer, in his book de faiptoribus non ecdefiajiich Gracis, Latinis, Itrilis, Florent. 1 648. 
 71 i. under the ^-oxAAretinKS, makes the following remark : Cur verofibi arrogaverit aliorum 
 confenfu divinitatem, nefdo, nift forte Dei niunus exercuijfe dicendus fit, quum Jumina capita velut 
 celjijpmos monies fulminaverit, lingua corrigem isf rmdSfmn, qua: ah aliis cajligari nequeimt. ' But 
 ' how others could countenance his affuming the epithet divine, I know not ; unlefs, per- 
 ' haps, he may be faid to have performed the office of a god, by thundering out his in- 
 
 * veilives againft perfons in the higheft rank, who, like fo many lofty mouiitains, were 
 
 * moft expofed to his revenge ; and by chaftifing and punifhing with his tongue thofe 
 ' who were above the reach of human laws.' Amidft: all the infolent virulence of his 
 pen, nothing can be moie bafe and mean-fpirited than his fawning petitions to feveral 
 
 great-
 
 
 c>d' 
 
 ' 1^'^'E NICE, 
 
 Spczelim * alfo tells us, that he is alfo ftiled Dhus Pe/nis Aretiitus, 
 on medals. 
 
 The learned differ about Aretinoz epitaph ; but that which Ghilini 
 gives us in the following words is looked upon as the bcft : 
 
 ^i giace FAretin amaro Tojco 
 T)el feni human, la cui lingua trqfijje 
 El vivi, & niorti : d'Iddio mal non dijjky 
 
 Etfifcujd, col dir, io no I conojco. 
 
 * Beneath this ftone the Tufcan bard doth lie, 
 
 ' Whofe wit licentious lafli'd both high and low : 
 
 * His God he fpar'd ; alk you the reafoii why ? 
 
 ' His anlwer is, My God I do not know.' 
 
 Which has been thus tranllated into Latin : 
 
 Condit Aretini cineres lapis ijle fepuhos, 
 
 Mart ales atro qui fale perfricuit. 
 IntaSlus Dens ejl Hit, caujamque rogatus 
 
 Hanc dedit, ilk, inquit, Jion mihi notus erat. 
 
 It Is alfo tranllated in a more difFufe manner into French, as follows \ 
 
 great men. And though fome, poffibly, from a motive of pity, might order him a fmall 
 gratuit)', others rewarded him with fevere drubbings. Vid. Girolamo Ghilini in Teatro 
 crhuomini letterati, Venet. 1 647, p. 192. The book entitled, De tribus impojiortbus, is falfly 
 afcribed to Aretino : but his abominable and infamous debaucheries appear by his fonnetSj 
 which are embellifhed with fixteen copper-plates defigned hy Giulio, a. painter of Rome, 
 and engraved by Marco Antonia oi' Bologna. Of the poet and the painter the learned ^a^r/, 
 in Trattato della Pittura, p. 302. has given his opinion in thefe words ■ Io non fo, qtial fajjic 
 piu brutto Io fpettacoh de i deftgni di Giulio air ochio, le parole delF Aretino a gV orecchi. ' I 
 ' know not which is moft filthy, obfcene, and ofFenfive, Giulio's defigns to the eye, or 
 ♦ Aretino's words to the ear.' A perfon could not believe that fuch a mifcreant had ever 
 been acquainted with theological ftudies ; and yet a paraphrafe on the ieventeenth Pfaim ; 
 a treatife called Speculum operum divimrnm ; and another entitled De humaniiate filii Dei j 
 and the Life of the virgin Mary, written by this (Time Aretino, are ftill extant. 
 
 * Vid. Spizelii Scrutin. Atheifmi,p. 19. where he affirms that he himfelf had feen fuch 
 medals. It was the opinion of fome, that Aretino, like the ancient Roman emperors, 
 might have jufHy aflumed the titles of Germaniius, Pannonicus, Francicus, is'c. as by the dread 
 of his pen he kept feveral fovereign princes under contribution. He died in the year 1556. 
 
 Le
 
 335 
 
 VENICE, 
 
 Le temps par qui tout fe cmfume 
 Sous cette picrre a mis le corps 
 De I'Aretin, de qui la plume 
 Bleffci les vivans & les morts ; 
 Son encre ternit la mcmoire 
 Des Monarqucs, de qui la gloire 
 'Eft vivante aprcs le trepas ; 
 Et s'il na pas centre Dieu mcme 
 Vomi quclque horrible blafpheme, 
 Cejl qiiil ne le connoijfoit pas. 
 
 This thought is more concifely exprefled in the Sieur des Accords' cqI- 
 ledion of epigrams, to which he gives the name of de 'Touches : 
 
 Bijfot rempli de medifance 
 Parle mal de tons, en tout lieu ; 
 Et mediroit encore de Dieu, 
 
 S'il en avoit la con?ioiJJa}ice. 
 
 This epigram, indeed, was publiflied fo early as the fixtcenth century ; 
 yet is it not lb old as to make us conclude, that the author of the epi- 
 taph on Arctino borrowed the thought fiom it : the reverfe is rather- 
 more probable. 
 
 Many i?c;«^«-Catholics will not be perfuaded that the clergy could fo 
 far forget themfelves, as to fuffer fuch a perfon to be buried in a Chri- 
 ftian church, and with fuch an epitaph : but whether it was fo or no, 
 cannot now be determined, becaufe the pavement of the church has 
 been ratfed higher many years fince ; fo that at prefent nothing is to be 
 feen of the tombftones of feveral famous men of thofe times. Among 
 thefe, there were three diftinguiflied for their learning, who being co- 
 temporaries, were infupportable to each other during their lives, out of 
 envy and jealoufy : however, all three died fo poor, that they were 
 laid together in one grave. Thefe were Dolce, a dramatic poet j Dio- Cra'veof 
 7iigi Atanagi da Cagli, who applied himfelf to the improvement of the '^"'^ '"erati, 
 Tufcan language ; and Alphonfo Ulloa, a Spaniard, who wrote the lives 
 of the emperors Charles V. and Ferdinand \. 
 
 Though at prefent nothing oi Aretifio's monument is to be feen in Portrait of 
 St. Luke's church ; yet, in an old pidture they fhew his portrait as bio- Arstino." 
 as the life, dreffed in black, and with a grey beard. In this piece is a 
 groupe of other perfons, and Chrift d'iftributing the hoft to them. 
 
 Under a white marble bufto in this chapel is the following infcription : 
 
 5- JOH:
 
 'V 
 
 36 VENICE. 
 
 r.pita^hof yon. CAR. LO'TH Bavarus, 
 
 ^^^fl^' Siwrum temporum Apelles, 
 
 Ob virtutem penicilli ab Imp. 
 
 Leopoldo 7iobilium ordini oggregat, 
 
 Umbram mortis 
 
 Depingere coepit 
 
 Dri.Oa.MDCXCVIII. Mtat.Jua LXVI. 
 
 • John Charles Loth, a native of Bavaria, the Apelles of his time, 
 ' who, on account of the fkill of his pencil, was, by the emperor 
 ' Leopold, honoured with a patent of nobility, began to paint the fliades 
 ' of death on the fixth day oi OSlober, 1698, and in the fixty-fixth year 
 ' of his age.' 
 
 Sf. Mark'j St. Mark's church is remarkable for the five brafs doors in the front. 
 chunh. That in the middle is the largeft, and is inlaid with filver. Some will 
 
 and brafs ' havc it, that thefc doors formerly belonged to the church of St. Sophia 
 k"-/"- at Conjlantinople ; and that they were brought hither from that city, with 
 
 the four brafs horfes that ftand over them : but this is but an uncertain 
 tradition. Some affirm that thefe horfes were originally fixed to the 
 chariot of the fun, which belonged to the triumphal arch ereded at 
 Rome by Nero, on account of a vidlory over the Parthians ; that ConJIaii- 
 tine the Great tranfported them to his Hippodro7mis at Conjlantinople, from 
 whence, in the year 1206, they were brought to Venice. But this opi- 
 nion feems to be confuted by an anonymous author, who, in the thir- 
 teenth century, wrote a treatife de mirabilibus Roma, which was publiflied 
 by Montfaucon ; for that writer mentions four horfes exadly refembling 
 thefe at Venice, which he fays were at that time ftanding in Ncrdi, circul 
 at Rome. The opinion that they were the work of Lifippiis, and fent 
 as a prefent from Tyridates V^mg oi Armenia to Tiberius, has no better 
 foundation. This, however, is certain, that for workmanfliip nothing 
 can exceed, and few pieces of the kind equal them. They are of Co- 
 ri?2thian hrak, and appear to have been formerly gilt. 
 
 There is likewife a great deal of mofaic-work, and feveral ftatues, with 
 other pieces of fculpture, on this front. At the entrance into the church 
 are four beautiful red porphyry pillars. On the fide facing the Broglio 
 are two porphyry images embracing each other, which reprefent Love 
 and Friendlhip. 
 
 Near the entrance you come into a cloyfter, which almofl furrounds 
 the church, and has in it feveral monuments of Doges and other cele- 
 brated pcrfons. Alfo in this piazza is rtiewn a fmall piece of ferpentine, 
 
 of
 
 P^ E N I C E. '22^ 
 
 of a rhomboidal figure, inlaid in another ftone, on which it is laid that ■^"""' <"""/«'* 
 pope Alexander III. flood when he fet his foot upon the emperor Fre- wl^Hfl]; 
 derick Barbarojfds, neck. This ftone is inclofed in a row of fmallerAo/o" /-^'^m- 
 pebbles, on which people arc frequently feen kneeling with great dtvo- ^^"/,^'^'^^' 
 tion, and crofTing themfelves on the forehead and breaft with the dufl: SupcrjUtln of 
 of the pavement, as they ufually do with holy water. '''' common 
 
 This ftone has no infcription, though Mabillon fays the contrary. The ^^''^"' 
 church is fomewhat dark ; but every where adorned with old mofaic- 
 work. The pavement is conipofed of inlaid pieces of jafper, ferpen- 
 tine, porphyry, and other beautiful forts of marble. Among the figures 
 to be ittn in it, are two cocks dragging away a fox, with his legs tied 
 together, which are faid to reprefent the vidories of Charles VIII. and 
 L.e-iois^\\. kings o{ France, over Liiigi Sforxa duke of Milan, who 
 was remarkably politic and cunning. 
 
 Within the church are eight pillars of black and white marble, faid Pretended pii. 
 to have been thofe of Solomo?is temple at 'Jerufale?n. '"'' f'''t 
 
 The altare maggicre, or high altar, is very magnificent, and is adorned lomon. 
 with four large alabafter pillars, two of which are tranfparent, as may be '^>;'"'fp<"-ent 
 feen by holding a lighted candle on the oppofite fide. ^' 
 
 Of all the chapels in this church the preference is unqueflionably due 
 to that of the virgin Mary, and chiefly on account of the admirable 
 mofaic-work, reprefenting the birth of Chrift, the prefentation of him in 
 the temple, the annunciation, the vifitation, with the death and afiumption Mo/ak-tuork. 
 of the virgin Mary, on a gilt ground, by Gambiono. Mofi: of the mofaic 
 reprefentations in this church are likcwife on gilt grounds, and were de- 
 figned by Tintoretto, Palma, Pietro Vecchio, &c. 
 
 I In the wall of the Cappella del Cardinale Ze7io is inferted a large ftone, 
 with three holes in it. Thefe holes are difpofed in the form of a triangle, 
 and are about half an inch in diameter. An infcription under it in four 
 Greek Iambic verfes informs us, that this ftone was ufed at Conjlantinopk 
 in a common fountain, and that the water bubbled up through thefe 
 holes. But as probably the Gr^^'^t infcription was not rightly underftood, 
 and the name of Mofes being legible on the ftone, it was luppofed that 
 this was the very ftone out of which Mofcs fupplied the IJraclites with 
 fpring water in the wildernefs. This is mentioned by Sanjo-vino in'Veiii- 
 fia defcritta, p- ()J- MartinelU in Ritratto di Fenezia, p. 18. and other 
 popilh writers ; and fome of them pretend, that Michael Palcologus dif- 
 covered thofe fprings of Mofes in the wildernefs, and caufed this infcrip- 
 tion to be put on the ftone. 
 
 The tomb of St. Mark the evangelift is faid bv fome to have been in ,., 
 
 the Cappella del Sagramcnto, behind the great altar ; whilft othe.'S main- t^mb. 
 tain, that it is not known with anv certaintv, even zxVciycc, in what 
 Vol.. III. JC X ■ part
 
 3^8 VENICE. 
 
 part of the church he lies. Some again pretend, that this fecret is only 
 known to the dean and procurators of St. Mark. The thumbs of that 
 evangelift, however, cannot be in his grave, wherever he lies ; one of 
 them being fliewn in the veftry of this church, and the other in the 
 caftle-church at Hannover, among other reliques which fell into the hands 
 of duke yobn Frederick, when he took the city of Bninfwick ; though 
 the greateft part of them were brought from the eafi: hy Henry Leo, in 
 tlie twelfth century. Two other reliques of St. Mark are alfo fliewn at 
 Hannover. 
 Sf. MarkV St. Mark's treafury, like many other things, when feen, is found to 
 
 treojmj. j^^vc bccn greatly magnified by report. A great part of its former riches 
 was expended in the liitT'urkiJJ:) wars. And of what is now remaining, 
 Mijfon, T. i. p. 2IO. and the author of La Gidda de Forejlierii per la 
 Citta diVenezia, p. 149. have given an accurate defcription. It contains 
 nothing at prefent but fome valuable altar-velTels, and fpurious reliques *. 
 On^ina/of The moft valuable piece is the gofpel of St. Mark, written, as is pre- 
 i>. Maik'o tended, by his own hand. But nothing is more certain than that the 
 critics would be at a terrible lofs, if they v/cre to reconcile the various 
 readings by this manufcript, which is not legible becaufe of its age, or 
 rather the dampnefs of the place where it is kept, which is lower than the 
 furface of the fea that flows near it at high water. This occafions the 
 moifture to drop continually from the cieling, by which means this ma- 
 nufcript is now become a kind of foft mafs, or parte, fo that a perfon can 
 hardly touch the leaves without tearing them. 
 
 Miffon believes he could diftinguifli die word KATA in Greek capitals in 
 part of this MS. and tlie letters A and S in another. But Ciaconi, and the 
 learned BenediSiine, Montfaiicon, in his Diar. Ital. p. ^^, afHrms for a 
 certainty that this manufcript is written in Latin. Now of what ufe a 
 book can be, which is fo decayed that one cannot diftinguifh in what 
 language it was written, is not eafily conceived +. As to the word KATA, 
 difcovered hy Mijfon, Montfaucon previoully informs us, that as the words 
 are joined together, both in this and other ancient manufcripts, it is pro- 
 bable, that Miffon had miftaken the letter B for a K, and made the word 
 KATA out of "the lafl: and firft fyllables of the two words IBATAVTEM, 
 which often occur in the gofpel; and as the letters were generally inclofed 
 between two lines, one at the top, and the other at the bottom, in order 
 to keep them even, an A might very eafily be taken for the Greek A ; 
 and the affinity between the s and the E is manifefl at firft fight. On 
 ©ne fide of the cafket of filver gilt, in which this manufcript lies as in. 
 a cover, are to be feen the arms of the city of Aquileia j and on the 
 
 * The reliques are here omitted. 
 
 f Montfaucon, in his Dijfert. de Papyro JEgyptiaca, inferted in the Memo'irei de Literature de 
 f,A(ademie da Infcriptions, fays, that this manufcript was legible in the year. 1564. 
 
 Other
 
 VENICE. 339 
 
 other fide, a coat of arms, confifting of a tower furrounded with lilies. 
 Hence it is conjectured, that this manufcript was formerly kept at Aqui- 
 kia, and fent hither as a prefent by one of the patriarchs of that city, of 
 the family Delia Torre. But why Montjancon {Dijf. de Papyro /Egypt.') 
 and other writers fuppofe It to be the moft ancient manufcript extant, 
 and of the fourth century, I cannot conceive, as no fufficicnt reafons for 
 fuch an opinion have been hitherto adduced. 
 
 Mabillon., in his Dicirium Italiciim, is miftaken in faying that no per- 
 fon is permitted to fee this antographical Gofpel of St. Mark, and that 
 it is written on Rgyptiaii paper made of the leaves or bark of Papyrus *. 
 Montjaucon is alfo of this opinion ; but Scipio Maffei, who is a very 
 complete judge of fuch points, in his Ijioria Diplomatica, publiflied 
 in quarto at Mantua, in the year 1727, affirms that this manufcript is 
 written on a paper made of cotton. 
 
 In this treafury is alfo kept the Gofpels faid to be written by St. Chry- Manufa-ipts hy 
 folkm's own hand. ^'- ^'hryibf- 
 
 -— -. to m . 
 
 The church of S. Maria de Carmini in the Sefiiero di Doj-fo duro, affords 5. Maria de 
 a high entertainment to a curious traveller, by the great number of fine C^™"^- 
 paintings with which it is embellifhed. Over the main entrance is the 
 monument of Giacomo Fofcari, a procurator of St. Mark, adorned with 
 curious fculpture in marble. 
 
 * The emperor jfu/lmMi's Cha>ia pknari^ fecwitiitis is one of the moft ancient inftruments 
 written on Egyptian paper in the French king's library, and is publifhed by Mabillon in his 
 incomparable treatile dc Re Diplomntica. St. A/guJiirie's epiftles, and a part of Jofephus's 
 antiquities in Laii?i, to be fecn in the BencdiSine hbrary at Paris, are of the fixth centur}-. 
 As for the manufcripts I favv at Geneva and J''aona, I have elfewhere taken notice of them. 
 The ufe of this paper fctnis to h.i\c been laid afide in the ninth, or at the beginning of 
 the tenth, century ; when filk-papcr was introduced as more convenient and lafting than 
 that made of Papyrus. As to our modern paper f, v^'\\\c)\ Petrus Moritiiis, furnamed Ff- 
 nerabilis (who lived in tlic twelfth century, and in St. Bernard's time) calls Charta e rafuris 
 vetcrum pnnmnm faSfa, ' A kind of paper made of lint of old rags ;' It fecms to have been 
 invented in the eleventh century. Vid. Alonifaucon Dijj. ciiat . Parchment (in Lalin Perga- 
 ■mena) derives its name from Pergamus, where it was invented by king Attalui. 
 
 t The exafl time of the invention of our modern paper is not to be afcertained. Rembold'm has 
 dilTertation on paper, printed at Berlin 1744, fixes the time of its invention in 1470 ; but upon 
 very flender grounds. Maliilon met with a m.^nufcript on modern paper which was nine hundred 
 years old in a monaflery in Lorrain. The obfervations of the learned Carmelite, Orlando, on this 
 fubjeft, have been tafcen notice of in the JcT. Enid. Lipf. an. 1724, p. 102. as follows : Turn de 
 charta dijjerens, ejus iiii'e/itionem ad feeculum /ere oiiavum rejert, quo Ei/Jihatius comnicntarios fuos in 
 Homerum charts infcripfijjt ftratur, additquc Genei'ce adhuc chartaceum Hoi/ieri codi.cm ojlenai, qui ante 
 amios oilmgentos fcriptui fit. ' Then difcourfmg on paper, he refers the invention of it almoft as 
 ' far back as the eighth century, when Eufatius publilhed his commentary on Homer, which is 
 ' faid to have been written on paper. He adds, that a manufcript of Hamcr is llill (hewn at Ge- 
 ' ne'va, faid to be about eight hundred years old.' Vid. Plin. hijt. nal. ed. Harduiii. J. xiii. c. 11, 
 12, 13. Guilandin. eomnientar. tn C. Plin. maj. tria capita de papyro, Laujann. 1576. Panciroll. rer, 
 mentor, deperd. I. ii. tit. 13. de iharta. Hugo de prima fcrtbendi origir.e iitm not. Trotz. Vltraj. 1738, 
 vif VoJJii etymolog.f, 129. 
 
 X X 2 S. Mirio
 
 34(5- 
 
 S. Maria Far- 
 mofa. 
 
 Monument. 
 
 S. Maria del 
 Horto. 
 
 ^^'"K^'N ICE. 
 
 S. Maria Formofa, in the Seftjero di Cafldlo, has fome good pieces of 
 painting. The fine marble fculpture about the high-altar alfo deferves 
 notice. The two fronts of this church were built at the expence of the 
 Capello family: And on one of them is the following panegyric. 
 
 V INCENTIVE CAPELLVS mar'itimarum rerum peritiffimus & 
 aiitiquoriim laiidibus par, I'riremium onerariarum Prafeilits, ab Hen- 
 rico VII. Britannia Rege Inftgnc donatm, ClaJJis Legatiis V. Imperator 
 dejig. ter ClaJJhn dt'dtixit, collapfam navaletn dij'ciplinam re/littiit, ad Zax- 
 inthum Aurice Ccejaris Legato prifcam Venetam virtutem ojlendit. 
 
 ' Vincenzo Capello, celebrated for his admirable fkill in naval affairs, 
 
 * and equal to the moft eminent charadlers of former ages, admiral 
 ' of the tranfport-gallies, who was honoured by Henry VII. king of 
 
 * England, with the order of knighthood, in five expeditions aded 
 
 * as vice-admiral, and in three had the chief command, reftored the 
 ' naval difcipline which had been long neglefted, and near the ifland 
 
 * of Zdnte fhewed Auria the emperor's commander, what wonders. 
 
 * could be performed by the ancient Vetietian bravery.' 
 
 Over the main entrance of one of the fronts is a ftone Sarcophagus. 
 
 The infide of the cupola is adorned with feveral ftatues : But what 
 chiefly attrads the eye of a curious traveller, is the fuperb monument 
 ereded in 1690, to Bartolonieo and Antonio T^omioni \ oppofite to which 
 is that of Tiirrini Tonnoni, which alfo deferves notice. Mijfon. T. i. 
 p. 282. mentions a church by the name of S. Maria gloriofa ; but he is 
 miftaken, and confounds it with the church of St. Francis, which is alfo 
 called Li Frari. 
 
 S.Maria del horto in the.SeJliero di Canaregio rs adorned with fome good 
 pieces of painting ; among which two very large pidures, by TintorettOy 
 in the Cappella del Alt are maggiore, are the principal. One reprefents the 
 apoftacy of the IJraelites in worfhipping the golden calf, and the other 
 the final judgment. On this altar ftands a ftatue of St. Chrijlcpher of a 
 gigantic fize. The patella, or knee-bone of that faint, is faid to have 
 been brought hither from England in the year 1470 ; and from that fpe- 
 cimen the celebrated ftatuary Moranzono firft caufed a knee to be made, 
 from which he himfelf made a ftatue proportionable to it. This patella,. 
 together with a finger of the apoftle St. T'homas, is preferved among the 
 other reliques in this church. The organ was painted by 1'i?itoretto, 
 which was the penance enjoined him for feducing a young woman in a 
 nobleman's houfe, where he was for fome time employed. He has, 
 
 how-
 
 VENICE. j4r 
 
 however, contrived to introduce the pidture of this occafional miftrefs 
 of his in the performance. 
 
 In this church lies Aloyfi Contareni, who was plenipotentiary from 
 Venice at the treaty of Mufijler, vvith the following oftentatious 
 epitaph. 
 
 ALOTSIUS CO NT. Eq. c/arus on'ghte, clarior i?ige?iio, pietate cla-Moxumtnt of 
 rijjimin, pofl famatn faSiis devinSla?n, Gennaniam^ Galliafu, Siietiam, Hif-^^°^^^ ^°'** 
 patiiam, Hollandiam cofnpofitam, Angliam, Galliam pacatas, Thraces Ve~ 
 netis reconciliatos, Orbem totum 7ion iMtn cito pajjibm peragratum, quamvir- 
 tutibm illuftratum, cum jam fibi fath, Pafriis jyiultiim, Glorice plurimiim 
 'uixijfet, Munjler. ad Gallon Flenipot. delegatus^ ad Turcas Orat. defignatiis^ 
 in albo hnmortaLJigtiandus, obiit eetatis fuce anno LIV.D.XI. M.XI. Pie- 
 tat is ac virtiitiim hxres Vincentius Contarenus Patruo fuo H. M. P. Anno 
 MDCLIII. 
 
 ' Aloyfi Contareni^ knight, illuftrious by his defcent, more fo for abi- 
 
 * lities, but moft of all for his piety. After he had rendered himfelf fa- 
 
 * mous by his noble exploits, and accommodated the differences of 
 
 * Germany., France, Sweden, Spain, and Holland; negotiated a peace 
 
 * between England and Fraitce, and reftored peace and harmony betwixt 
 
 * the Turks and Venetians, travelled over the whole world, which he 
 
 * illuminated with his virtues ; and after having now lived enough to 
 
 * himfelf, long to ferve his country, and arrived to the higheft pitch of 
 ' glory, &c. he was enrolled in the bright lift of immortals in the iifty- 
 « fifth year of his age. Vincenzo Cotitareno, the heir of his piety and vir- 
 < tues, eredled this monument to his illuftrious uncle, in the year 1653.' 
 
 Among the many beautiful paintings in S. Maria Maggiore, in xhtPaimhgs in 
 Sejlicro di Dorfo duro, Noah's ark, by Bajfano Vecchio, is in fuch repu-^- Maria 
 tation, that endeavours have been ufed to obtain copies of it for many' ^^g'oie. 
 collections and cabinets of the curious. The affumption of the Virgin 
 Mary, on the Altare Maggiore, hy Paolo Veronefe, is alfo much admired. 
 In this church the pillars are all covered with gilt leather. 
 
 S. Maria de Miracoli, in the Seftievo di Canaregio, is worth feeing forS. Maria de' 
 its beautiful marble bajjo-relievo's. The ftatue of the Virgin Mary, over'^'"'^^''* 
 the main entrance, is the work of the famous Pirgotele. Under the or- 
 gan are likewife to be feen two boys cut in marble, which were brought 
 hither from Ravenna, and are generally afcribed to Praxitiles. 
 
 There is a flagrant proof of the villany of popifh priefts, and that theS. Maria di: 
 emperor Henry VII. was not the only perfon who was poifoned by re_Miiencordia.. 
 Geiving the hoft, in the church of *S, Maria di Mifericordia, in the Sejliero 
 
 di
 
 342 VENICE, 
 
 ■ ' (ii Cunaregio ; for the following epitaph is to be feen there on the 
 
 tomb of Gieroiiymo Savina. 
 
 HIERONTMO SAVIN M, Chi Veneto, SanSfa Maria Miferi- 
 cordia Priori, P'iro bonariim artiiim infgni peritid claro, fed ob pictatem 
 clariori, quam etiam moriem erga hojlem, qui ei •venerium in calice, dumfacra 
 perageret, propinaverat , magnii argmnentis oflendit. Obiit die IX. 'Junii 
 M.DC.I. Anno cetatisfuce L. Prioratui vero X. H. M. N. S. 
 
 ' To the memory of Gieronymo Savina, a native of Venice, prior of 
 * S. Maria di Mifericordia, whofe great fkill in the arts and fciences re- 
 ' ceived additional dignity from his piety, of which, when dying, he 
 ' gave an uncommon proof towards an impious aifaflln, who had given 
 ' him poifon in the confecrated elements. He died on the ninth of JunCf 
 ' 1601, in the fiftieth year of his age, £fr. 
 
 The memory of this atrocious adtion is alfo preferved in an another in- 
 fcription in the Scuola della Mifericordia. 
 S.Maria in B. Maria in Nazareth, in the Sejliero di Canaregio, belongs to theG?r- 
 Nazareth. melites, and has a magnificent front. This church is not very large ; 
 but it is ornamented in a very elegant manner, the walls being all lined 
 with white, red, and purple marble. The altar is embellifhed with 
 exquifite fculpture in marble ; and a great number of fine paintings are 
 to be feen in the body of the church. 
 S.Maria del- Satita Maria della Salute was built by the republic, purfuant to a ge- 
 la Salute. neral vow made, during the terrible ravages of a peftilence, in the year 
 1630. The number of marble flatues, within and without this church, 
 exceeds a hundred and thirty; and the whole expence of this noble ftruc- 
 ture is faid to have amounted to a million of monev. This edifice is odan- 
 gular, and was built from a defign of Baltafare Longhetia. The pillars are of 
 the Corinthian order, and almoft every thing that is to be feen in the church 
 is of white marble. The pavement is of marble inlaid in figures, and 
 that before the great altar is remarkably beautiful. 
 
 Among the paintings, the defcent of the Holy Ghoft by Titian, and 
 the capital piece in the veftry, by Tintoretto, reprefenting the marriage 
 in Caija, are the mod efteemed. The cupola, which is not yet painted, 
 has a gallery within it. The marble fculpture on the high-altar repre- 
 fents the humiliation of the republic of Venice before the Virgin Alary, 
 and an angel driving away the peftilence. 
 
 In the convent belonging to this church the Patres Zomafchce, or 
 Somafca, refide ; and the infcriptions under five white marble ftatues 
 on the firft landing-place of the ftair-cafe of this convent, give a fliort 
 
 account
 
 r E N I C E. 343 
 
 account of the inftitution of their order. That under the hnage of GiroJatno 
 Mianiy or Hieronymus /EmiliamiSy a Venetian nobleman, is as follows : 
 
 Congregationis Somafcha Fundator. 
 
 * The founder of the Somafchean order/ 
 
 Under the ftatue of St. Augiijlme are thefe words ; 
 
 Religionis Legijlator. 
 
 ' The legiflator of the order.' 
 
 Under that of pope Paul III. 
 
 Congregationis Approbator. 
 
 ' The approver of the order/ 
 
 And under Pius V. 
 
 Religionis Confirmatory 
 
 ' The confirmer of the order.*^ 
 
 Over the entrance of the library are thefe words : Libror^. 
 
 Ingeniorum exuvia 
 
 Immortalitatem adepta^. 
 
 Pofieritati legatee. 
 
 ' The noble remains of immortal genius's, which they configned to 
 * pofterity.' 
 
 There are a great number of valuable books in this library; and on 
 the outfide of it is a noble gallery, on which ftand forty-four ftatues of 
 the moft eminent fethers of the church, and Ibme other perlbns difbin- 
 guifhed for their great learning, as Albertus Magnus, cardinal Barotiius, &€. 
 The library itfelf is very lofty, and well illuminated. 
 
 In S. Maria de Servi, or the Servites church, in the Sejliero de C^-s-Ma"a<l« 
 naregio, lie the Doges Francefco Donato and Andrea Vendranwio : the 
 ^.tter has a Aately monument, with an epitaph in the ufual ftrain. 
 
 The
 
 34: + 
 
 LoHge'vilf. 
 
 S. Maria Zo 
 benigo. 
 
 LeaniKg 
 
 ■lonver, 
 
 S. Marina. 
 
 S, Martino. 
 
 Church on St. 
 
 MichaclV 
 
 ijland. 
 
 Mvnumlnt of 
 cardinal Del- 
 fini. 
 
 V B N I C E. 
 
 The advanced age of the feveral perfons, whofe epitaphs I have taken 
 the liberty to infert, puts me in mindof obfervingto you, that for a perfoii 
 at Venice it is nothing flrange or extraordinary to live eighty years or 
 more. Whether the Venetians are indebted to the climate for this lon- 
 gevity, or to fome other caufe, I leave others to determine. A piece of 
 painting over the altar, by Salviati, of the affumption of the virgin Mary, 
 is greatly efteemed. Formerly, an exquifite original piece, by Paolo 
 Veronefe, of Simon the leper entertaining our Saviour, and Mary Mag- 
 dalen anointing his feet, was to be feen in the hall of this convent ; but 
 in the year 1665, the republic made a prefent of it to the king of France. 
 It was thirty feet by fifteen. 
 
 S. Maria Zobenigo, in the Se/iiero di S.Marco, miy boaft of having one 
 of the moftfuperb fronts in the world. The whole feems to be cut out 
 of one piece; but is embellifhed with exquifite pillars, flatues, and ba//o- 
 relievo's reprelenting forts, fhips, trophies, &c. all of marble. This 
 grand piece was defigned by Benoni, a celebrated architedt ; and fignior 
 Antonino Barbara, who died in 1679, on his return from an embaffy to 
 Rome, left thirty thoufand ducats to put it in execution. 
 
 The fquare tower near this church is remarkable for inclining con- 
 fiderably from the perpendicular. 
 
 In the church of S. Marina, in the Sejiierio di Cajiello, on the right- 
 hand of the entrance, is an altar, where, every Friday, penitent proili- 
 tutes perform their devotions. In this church lie the Doges Michael 
 Steno and Nicolo Marcelli ; but without any thing extraordinary on their 
 monuments. Tadeo della Volpe da Imola has been honoured by the re- 
 public with an equeftrian flatue on his tomb. In a chapel on the right- 
 hand near the high altar is a Fieta of white marble, with an angel {land- 
 ing on each fide of the Virgin. 
 
 In S. Martino is interred the. Doge Francijco Erizzo, who died in 
 1646 ; his monument is very elegant, and was executed by Carneri. 
 
 This church ftands in the Se/iiero di Caftelh. 
 
 The church built on the ifland of St. Michael, which lies betwixt Ve- 
 fiice and Murano, belongs to the white monks, called Patres Camaldo- 
 lenj'es. Its foundations are very much damaged by the fea, which is here 
 about twenty feet deep, and the walls are cracked in feveral places. In 
 the portico before the church are two large pieces of painting, repre- 
 fenting the Ifraelites worfliipping the golden calf in the wildernefs, and 
 Mofes fetting up the brazen lerpent. 
 
 Within the church, over the main entrance, is a fine monument 
 ereded to the memory of cardinal Delfini. 
 
 It is remarkable, that a Spanifi ambafilador, about two hundred and. 
 
 fifty years fince, took fuch a fancy to this ifland on account of its fitua., 
 
 J tion,
 
 VENICE. 345 
 
 tioh, that he embraced a monaftic life, and ended his days upon it. His 
 epitaph is as follows : 
 
 Ledtor parumper fifte, rem miram leges, Spanifh am. 
 
 Hie E USEE II HISPANl Motiachi corpus fitum ejl, ''^'■ff"''' 't'- 
 
 Vir undeciinque qui juit doBiJjimiis, 
 
 Nofireeqiie vitce exemplar admirabile, 
 
 Morbo laborans, fexdecim totos dies 
 
 Edefis, bibens, nihil prorfus, & tifquc fuos moneni 
 
 Deiim adiit. Hoc tefcire "cokbom. Abi Gf i:alc. 
 
 ' Stranger, ftay a while, and read what will furprize thee. Here lies 
 ' the body of the tnon^L Eupbius, a Spaniard, who was a perfon of uni- 
 ' verfal learning, and a fliining example of die monadic life. In his 
 ' laft ficknefs he continued fixteen whole days without eating, drini-;ing, 
 ' or taking the leaft nourilliment, while he incellantly gave pious admu- 
 ' nitions to thofe about him to the laft moment, and then took his flight 
 ' to heaven. This is not unworthy thy notice ; go on and profper.' 
 
 On the left hand at entering into the church is an elegant hexagonal Chapel founded 
 chapel, adorned with beautiful marble bajb-relievo's, which is faid to ^' """""'■ ""'■ 
 have been built by Margarctta Mmiliana, a courtezan of Verona, in her 
 old age, and of the money which flie had gained by the debaucheries 
 of her youth. This account, however, is contradidled by the monks of 
 this convent, who affirm that ilie was of the noble Venetian family of 
 Miani, and appeal to the good teftimony given of this lady's virtue in 
 her epitaph, in the chapel that flie founded : 
 
 Margarita Emiliance tejlamento Matrona pletate infjgnis Procuratores 
 D. M. de Citra ^^ fide optima a fiindamentis exfiruendam curdrunt, 
 
 ' This chapel was built from the foundation by the procurators of St. 
 * Mark, in juft and faithful conformity to the will of Margaretta JEmi- 
 ' liana, a lady eminent for her piety.' 
 
 The monks of this convent value themfelves extremely on a brother of 7i/«waj Cuf- 
 their order, of the name of MaUrus, who was a celebrated cofmographer. '"o^™/*"'- 
 
 * Three of the nine procurators of St. Mark have the care of St. Mark's church, and 
 are ftiled Procuratores d'l Supra. Three others have the management of the Fits Ciufa, and 
 legacies relating to the city on this fide of the i?/rt//ff, and are called Procuratores di Citra, 
 The remaing three, who are diftinguifhed by the n:une of Procuni/ores ci' Uftra, have thole 
 parts of the city on the other fide of the Ria/to and the great canal, under their infpeflion. 
 
 • Vol. III. Yy They
 
 ;4.6 
 
 S, Nicola di 
 Tok^itino. 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 They ftill iLew a map of the world, as a fpeclmen of his fkill, wliich 
 is very beautifully drawn, though not very accuuite. 
 
 The Venetians^ contrary to the cuftoin of other Roman-Q'!i\.\\o\\c 
 countries, have dedicated churches to feveral of the y^iviJJj worthies 
 mentioned in the Old Teftament, as Samuel, "Jeremiah, DaJiiel, and Job ; 
 and, among the reft, a church is dedicated to Mofes. It lies in the 
 Sefiiero di S. Marco, and has a fine front of IJlrian ftone, adorned with 
 ftatues. The high altar is embelliflied with fine fculpture in marble. 
 
 In the church of S. Nicola di 'Tclentiuo the Covjiari have a beautiful 
 chapel, where two Doges of that noble family lie buried. Giovanni 
 Cornaro died in the year 1624, and his fon Francefco in the year 1656. 
 The epitp.phs of thefe tv/o Doges, for what realon I know not, have bten 
 erafcd : however, their monuments make a fuperb appearance ; and on 
 each fide of them are twelve marble bufto's of celebrated perlons of 
 that family. The high altar is adorned with feveral mart'le ftatues, and 
 other pieces of fculpture. On the left-hand in going into the church 
 ftands the pompous monument of Giovanni Franofco Morojini, patriarch 
 oi Venice, who died in the year 1628. The paintings have been taken 
 away from the cieling, in order to admit more light into the church. 
 
 The church of 5. Fietro di Cq/iello is a very lumuious elegant edifice, 
 and is adorned with beautiful marble pillars. At the high altar ftand 
 twelve ftatues of white marble, fix of which fupport the farcophagus 
 where the body of St. Lorenzo Giuftiniani, the firfi patriarch of Ve?jice, 
 was depofited. This elegant monument was deiigned by Baltafare 
 Longhena the archited:. The Capella del SanfiJJimo Sacramento is alfo 
 very beautiful ; but for marble ornaments, is n>uch furpafi"ed by the 
 Capella del Cardinale Vendramino. The picflure of the virgin Mary with 
 the infant Jejus, over the altar of the latter, is by Giordano. On each 
 fide of this chapel is a beautiful bajfo-relievo •„ and the church is embel- 
 liflied with fine paintings. 
 F^aion of the The Qajlellani, a party among the common people, derive their name 
 ^^^^^^^"■""^ ixom Fietro di Cajlello; as ihc Nicolati, or the oppofite fadtion, are fo 
 called from the church of St. Nicola, which lies at the other end of the 
 city. 
 
 I have before taken notice of the encounters betwixt thefe two parties 
 on the Fonte de Carmini. 
 
 As for the epitaphs in this church, 1 fliall only infert the following : 
 
 S. Pietro 
 di Caftello, 
 
 Nicolati. 
 
 0/^
 
 VENICE, 
 
 347 
 
 0(fa I^pltaph of 
 
 HE L E NM CAPELLJE "jj^^"'^ <-^'- 
 
 Omnigcnis virtutibus infignitce 
 
 Matronce, 
 
 Francifci Mauroce7ji D. M. P. 
 
 Conjugis prcedileSlee 
 
 Genere, Fortuna, Venujlate^ 
 
 Grcecam, 
 
 Fide, Ptidore, Pielat^ 
 
 Romaiiam Helctiam 
 
 Refercntis 
 
 In hoc poftrano hwnanitath dojnicilio 
 
 Requiefcunt. 
 
 ' In this lad manfion of mortality lie the remains of Helena Capella, 
 " a matron adorned with every kind of virtue, the tenderly-beloved 
 ' wife of Francefco Morofini, procurator of St. Mark; who, in birth, 
 ' fortune, and beauty, excelled the Greciaii Hele?:, but for conjugal 
 ' fidelity, modefty, and piety, refembled the Ro7nan Helcji.' 
 
 Here is fliewn a marble chair, which, as is pretended, belonged to f^^T^'" ^ 
 St. Peter, when he was bi(hop of Ajitioch. 
 
 The church called // Redentore, in the Siftiero di Dcrfo duro, belongs to '^ Redentore. 
 the Capuchin monks. This edifice is quite new, and well enlightened. 
 It exhibits to the traveller's curiofity an extraordinary colledion of paint- 
 ings, by 'Tintoretto, the two Palma's, and Paolo Vcronefe. The high al- 
 tar is ornamented with fine baJJ-.-relievo's, pillars of white marble, and 
 two large bronze ftatues, with feveral others of a fmaller fize. 
 
 The church^? S.Rocco lies in the Srjiiero di S.Paolo, and, among other iV. Roccc, 
 fine paintings, has one reprefenting our Saviour led to his crucifixion, by 
 1'ilian. Oppofite to this picfture is alfo a marble haffo-relievo of the fame 
 fubjeft, by Sanfovino, purfuant to a vow he had made. On the left- 
 hand going into the church ftands the ftatue of Peregrini Bofelli Griili, a 
 native of Bergamo, who was killed in battle in the year 1517. The 
 high altar is decorated with fine pieces of ferpentine and other valuable 
 forts of marble. 
 
 In the church of S. Sakatore, in the Siftiero di S. Marco, is to be feen ^- Salvatwe. 
 a fine monument, erefted in memory of Catharina Cornara, queen ofTomh of queen 
 Cyprus, which is enibellifhed with elegant bajjo-relievo's in marble. Op- comara. 
 pofite to this are the monuments of three cardinals of the houfe oi Car- 
 naro> Among the fine paintings with which this church is adorned, 
 
 Y y 2 the
 
 348 
 
 F E N I C E. 
 
 Scoole, 
 
 ii-:nola di S. 
 MafCO. 
 
 the Annunciation, by Titian, is the nioll remarkable. Not far from Iier 
 Cyprian majelly lies the Doge FraiicefcoVencri , with a fuperb monument, 
 of which it is fufficient to fay, that it was done by the hand of Sanfo'vino. 
 In this church lies 2\io Andrea Dcljini. His monument is very elegant; 
 as are thofe of two Doges of the Priu/i family oppofite to it. 
 
 The Stuole arc thofe chapels or halls belonging to certain religious fra- 
 ternities, or companies of meclianics, where they meet to perform their 
 devotions, or on other occafions. A Scuola, belides the chapel, con- 
 fiiisof fcveral other apartments, mofl: of which are ornamented with good 
 pictures. The number of the Scitole in Venice amount to forty; and lix 
 of the principal Scuole are called Sawk grandi. 
 
 But a traveller may fatisfy his curiofity by a taking a view only of two 
 of the latter, namely, the Sciiola di S. Marco, and the Scuoln di S. Rocco -, 
 and this may be done at any time for a fmall gratuity. In the former 
 are feveral pieces painted by both the Tintoreiti ; and the wall on the 
 outfide is adorned with bajjo-relievds. 
 
 The Sciiola di S. Rocco, in the Sejiiero di S. Paolo, has a beautiful marble 
 front, embelliflied with fculpture. 
 
 On the (lair-cafe, the plague that raged at Venice in 1630 is repre- 
 fented in two large emblematical pieces of painting. One of thefe pic- 
 tures is the work of Antonio Zanchi, and the other of Pietro Negri. In 
 this Scuola are likewife feveral noble fpecimens of the fkill of TintorettOt 
 and feveral other celebrated painters ; but the greatefl: part of the paint- 
 ings are by the former. He painted St. Rocco in the air on the cieling of one 
 of the apartments with admirable fkill, and fuch difpatch, that the other 
 painters, who were employed in this Scuola at the fame time, had hardly 
 drawn the out-lines of their intended work when he had finiflied his 
 piece. The wooden flatues in the great hall, reprefenting Arts and Sci- 
 ences, with the Virtues and Vices, are well executed. Here is alfo a 
 library reprefented by a piece of painting, which would deceive the niceft 
 eye. 
 S. Sebaftiano. The church of S. Seba/liatio, or S. Bajliano, lies in the Seftiero di Dorfo 
 diiro. It is ornamented with four pieces of painting by Paolo Veroneje ; 
 among which, our Saviour fitting at table in the houfe of Simon the 
 leper, and Mary Magdalene anointing his feet, is a piece that is highly 
 efleemed. In this church alfo lies that celebrated painter, with the fol- 
 lowing epitaph on his tomb : 
 
 S. Sr-uola di 
 S. Rocco. 
 
 paintings. 
 
 Puolo
 
 VENICE, 
 
 349 
 
 "Paulo Calliari Veronenfi PiBori Epitaph of 
 
 Natm-a amnio, Artis miracuh, . Paolo Vero- 
 
 Supt'j-Jliti Fatt's, Famd viBiiro. "^ ^" 
 
 ' To the memory of Paolo Calliari of Verona, a celebrated painter,, 
 ' the rival of nature, a prodigy of art, who will live after death ; for 
 • his never-dying fame renders him immortal.' 
 
 It is a fufficient encomium on this ingenious artift, that when we 
 fpeak of the four moft famous painters of modern times, we are fuppofed 
 to mean Raphael, Corregio, Titiano, and Paolo Veronefe. 
 
 The church called // Sepolcro, which flands in the Seftiero di Cajlello, II Sepolcro. 
 derives its name from the large monument of IJlrian marble, erefted there imitation of 
 in imitation of the holy fepulchre in which Chrift is faid to have been Chriji'sjefui- 
 buried at 'Jerufalem. 
 
 The AfTumption of the virgin Mary, over the high altar, was painted 
 by Palma. 
 
 The church del Santo Spirito ftands in the Seftiero di Dorfo duro, and Church del 
 belongs to the Auguflitie nuns. Here are the monuments of the fenator Santo Spirito. 
 and celebrated hiflorian Paolo Periita, and two other fenators of his fa- 
 mily. 
 
 The church of 5'. Stefano, in i\\t Seftiero di S. Marco, is a Gothic llruc- S. Stefano. 
 ture, which the Italians ci\\ ftruttura Tedefca. On the right-hand near 
 the entrance within the church is a marble altar, adorned with admirable 
 pieces of fculpture. Fortitude leaning on a pillar, with a flambeau in 
 her left-hand, flands on one fide, with this infcription underneath : 
 
 Adverfitati mundi noji cede 
 
 ' I fink not under the adverfities of this life.' 
 
 On the other fide is Prudence, with a book in her hand, and thele 
 words under : 
 
 Felicitati mundi non credo. 
 
 ' I do not place any confidence in worldly profperity.' 
 
 The palliotto, or front of the altar, is an exquifite piece, beautifully 
 inlaid with marble of various colours. The pulpit is likewife made of a, 
 coftly fort of marble. 
 
 Over
 
 35' 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 Over the itjam entrance, within the church, is the monument of JDo- 
 menico Contaretii, adorned with an equeftrian ftatue, and an epitaph, 
 which is as follows : 
 
 DOMINICUS CONTJRENUS, DoSlore copianim Liviam 
 _ . , . Provilor Genera/is, 
 
 Epitaph of TT 1 ■■ / 7 ■ I n/r I n • 
 
 Domenico Helvetus Juu oppido Melegnano pro/tratis, 
 
 Contareni. Auolis in Loinbardid Venetis, 
 
 Lilia Jlemati Coyitareno a Fraricijco Gallorum Rege injun^ld 
 
 Fcederata Gallo Rcpublica 
 
 Virtutis accipit monumentum. 
 
 Angehis Eques D. M. Procurator, & Domim'cus Frafer 
 
 Patruo Maximo ex tejl anient o P. P. MDL. 
 
 ' Domenico Contareni, Proveditor General of the forces of the republic 
 ' commanded by Liviani, having defeated the Switzers near the town 
 * of Melignano, and enlarged the Venetian dominions in Lcmhardy, 
 ' negociated an alliance between France and the republic ; and was fo 
 ' highly efteemed by Francis, king of that nation, that he gave him 
 ' leave to quarter the Contareni arms with the lilies. To their glorious 
 ' uncle, purfuant to his will, this monument was eredled by An'-'ch, 
 ' procurator of St. Mark, and Domenico, his brother. 1550.' 
 
 In the paffage towards S. Angeh, lies the cavaliere Carlo Rodolfo, a cele* 
 brated painter, who alfo wrote the lives of feveral painters. His epitaph 
 is as follows : 
 Carlo Ro- ^ifie pedem parumper, 
 
 dolfo. Amice viator ; 
 
 Conditur fub hoc lapide 
 tAROLVS RODVLPHIVS, Auratm Eques, 
 
 ^i 
 cum alios 
 Calamo & penicillo 
 F. fepiilchris eruere conaretiir^ 
 Tumulum fihi paravit, 
 
 Ut quies tandem 
 
 Laboribus inveniretur^ 
 
 Die requiefce, preeor^ 
 
 Et abi. 
 
 Vixit annos LXIIII. Menf. V. Dies V. 
 
 Obiit anno Domini MDCLVIIL 
 
 5 * Friendly
 
 25T^ 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 ' Friendly traveller, flop a while and read. Under this ftone lies 
 
 * Carlo Rodolfo, knight, who at the fame time that he endeavoured by 
 ' his pen and pencil to refcuc others from the grave, prepared himfelf a 
 ' tomb, where he might at lafl: reft from his labours. Kindly pray for 
 
 * his repofc, and' then go on, and profper. He died in the year 1658, 
 
 * having lived fjxty-four years, five months,, and five days.' 
 
 In the cloyfter belonging to the eonvent, is the following epitaph on 0/ Antonio 
 Antonio Cornaro, a phifopher. Gornaro. 
 
 Antonji ad citierem Viator ad/la. 
 
 Hie CORNELIVS ilk, quern folebant 
 
 Rerian principia & Deos docentem 
 
 Olim A?ite?iorea Jiupere Athence; 
 
 Accitus patrias jubinde ad oras. 
 
 Or n at us titmis fafcibufque, 
 
 DoSi7-ind, Venetam beavit JJrbem. 
 
 • Stop traveller, and revere the remains of Antonio Cornaro, whofe 
 
 * ledures on natural philofophy and divinity, were heard by the univer- 
 
 * fity of Padua, with the higheft admiration and applaufe. Being after- 
 ' wards recalled to his own country, he was honoured with titles and 
 ' high pofts ; and by his learning and wifdom greatly contributed to the 
 
 * happinefs of the city of Venice.' 
 
 I muft not here omit the equeftrian ftatue and monument, with 
 which the republic has honoured Bartolomeo dAhiano, who was Ca- 
 pitano Generate, or commander in chief of the Venetian forces. Undec 
 it is the following infcription : 
 
 ^ARTHOLOMMO L IV I A NO, Imperatori 
 
 Plurimis bellis fpe£tato, 
 
 ^em ad Gaidum frcepr opera mors^ 
 
 FraSium labor i bus abftulit 
 
 M. D: XV. 
 
 Nonis OElobris. 
 
 Sena t us dicatam menioriarn renovavit 
 
 Ad merita glories perennitatem 
 
 M. DC. XXXIII. 
 
 • Bartolo?neo dAhiano, a celebrated General, who, having diftin— 
 ' guiihed himfelf in many campaigns, and impaired his health by fa- 
 
 ' tigucs.
 
 35^3 
 
 r E N I C E, 
 
 ti^^ues aud hardlLips, was fnatched away by death, too Toon for hiy 
 country, on the Icventh day of October, 1515. In order to perpetuate 
 his menaory, this monument, which had been fo juftly erected to his 
 glory, was repaired by the fcnate in the year 1633.' 
 
 This dAhiaim, or Liviano, in confideration of his bravery, was raifed 
 to the rank of Nohili, and had a grant of the CaJleUo Fordcnone, which, 
 for want of male ilTue, again devolved to the republic. The whole Sig- 
 'noria of Venice afTifted at his funeral, his three daughters were portioned 
 by the republic, and his widow, during her life, enjoyed a monthly 
 penfion of fifty fcudi, or crowns, befides a palace to reiide in. 
 Pmntlng by In the convcnt to which this church belongs are feveral paintings in 
 Poidenone. frefco, by Anton'io Licinio da Forde'none, which, among other hiftorical 
 paffages of the Old and New Teftament, reprefent the judgment oi Solo" 
 mon ; David with G-oliatb's head ; Abratatn^ intended facrifice of Ifaac ; 
 the murder ot Abel; Adam and Eve driven out of Paradife ; our Saviour 
 converfing with the woman of S^nnaria; the burial of Chrift, and his 
 refurredion ; the ftoning of St. S\pben, and the converfion of St. Paul. 
 S. Vitalc. The church di S. Vttale, in the SejHero di S. Marco, has fome good 
 
 marble bajfo-relicvo's. This whimfical infcription is to be feen over the 
 entrance into the veftry belonging to this church: 
 
 D. O. M. 
 
 Amove 
 
 SanBi - - Vitalis 
 
 More 
 
 Pientijf. - - Majorian 
 
 Ore 
 
 P. Theodori — Thejferi 
 
 Re 
 
 M. DC. LXXFI. 
 
 %, Zacharia. 
 
 This put me in mind of the following verfe made on the fix letters of 
 the word Amores. 
 
 Sexjuge, quinque tene, fac bis dao, trinafeqtmittir. 
 
 S. Zaccaria, in the Sejiiero di Caftello, both on account of its beautiful 
 marble pillars, and fine pidures, is far from being the leafl elegant of 
 thofe churches that deferve a traveller's notice at Venice. Over the main 
 entrance is a marble ftatue of Zacbarias, John the Baptifl\ father, as big 
 as the life, and entirely worthy oi Alejandro Vittoria, who made it: 
 
 He
 
 From VENICE to TRIESTE, 353 
 
 He lies near the veflry, and has a very elegant monument, with this 
 Ihort infcription : 
 
 ALEXANDER VICTORIA 
 
 ^li "vivus 'vivos duxit e marmore indtus. 
 
 * AlefaJidro Vittoria, 
 
 • Who to rude ftone did youthful beauty give, 
 
 * And taught the breathing marble how to live.' 
 
 On the right-hand as you enter tlie church is an altar-piece repre- Painting. 
 fenting our Saviour, diftributing confecrated wafeis to the difciples, who 
 kneel down before him. Among the many excellent pictures on the 
 fame fide, the eye is particularly ftruck with a piece exhibiting the 
 eaftern Magi coming to B^'tblcbem, and another of the adoration of the 
 fhepherds. 
 
 LETTER LXXVII. 
 
 Journey from Venics to Tf-iejicy Fiume^ Buccari, Porto 
 
 Re, &c. * 
 
 SIR, 
 
 "^ H E fiiorteft way for travellers to go from Venice to Vienna is to 
 return to Padua, and there to agree with a Vettiiriiio ; who, for 
 carriage and diet, has generally from twelve to fourteen ducats for every 
 perfon. But as in that road a perfon travels twelve or thirteen days 
 without meeting with any thing remarkable to fatisfy his curiofity ; our 
 company rather chofe to go by the way of T'riejie and Fiume -|-, two 
 places which are now rifing into great reputation for commerce, and 
 from thence to take a view of the natural curiofities that occur in the 
 dutchy of Cat'niola. If a perfon is not difpofed to go all the way by 
 fea, he may perform this journey by firft going in a barque, which may 
 be hired for a Zecchino, to Fofete ; and the price of a chaife from thence 
 
 * Thefe towns, through which the author travelled, are in the province of TJiria, part 
 of which belongs to the houfe qI Aujlria, and the reft to the reptibKc of f'fK/Vf?. 
 t Both thefe ports belong to the hcufe o'i jiujlvin. 
 
 Vol. III. Z z to
 
 354^ 
 
 JalazzoMag- 
 
 gini. 
 
 Aquileja. 
 
 2^ R I E S 1'' E. ^ 
 
 to Palina is about three Zecchini *. But the next ftage from Pahna to 
 Monte Falcone, being a long one, a traveller pays twenty-five lire -{- for 
 the chaife. At Monte Falcone, one may take a barque again for Triejle, 
 the hire of which comes to twelve lire. 
 
 In this route, betwixt Mo72ta and Ontagnia, a perfon has an opportu- 
 nity of feeing the fine palace and gardens of the Magiiini, a Venetian 
 familv. 
 
 On this fide o^ Monte Falcone, and on the right-hand fide of the road, 
 are fome old walls and a tower, which are the melancholy remains of 
 the celebrated city of Aquileja ; the antiquities of which, are, with the 
 greatefi: judgment, treated of in a learned difiertation by the venerable 
 biihop Fbilippus a Tnrre t. 
 
 The mildnefs of the feafon encouraged us to take the fliortefl: way, by 
 going from Venice to Tricjle by fea ; and accordingly we provided our- 
 felves with the necefTary certificates of health, which are delivered out 
 gratis, at a large edifice oppofite to the fait doiiane, or excife-office. In 
 thefe certificates the perfons name, age, ftature and complexion, are al- 
 ways exadly fpecified. 
 G/7/?o/Iftria. A Bracera, or large barque, maybe hired from Venice to 'Triejle for 
 fifty or fixty lire ; and with a fair wind the pafi!age, which is about ninety 
 Italian miles, is performed in fifteen or eighteen Hours. But a contrary 
 wind drove us confiderably to the fouthward, where the IJlrian fliore 
 lies low, and on a level j but nearer Triejle, from Pyrano and Capo d'lf- 
 tria, it rifes behind a narrow plain, into a range of eminences and hills, 
 which give the country the appearance of an amphitheatre. The country 
 about Pyrano abounds with groves of olive-trees. This place, together 
 with Ifola, Capo d'ljlria, and the fortrefs of Muglia, belongs to S. Marco, 
 or the republic of Venice. 
 
 Dolphins and tunny fillies are commonly feen \x\\k\& Adriatic, with- 
 out the ufual confequence of flormy weather, which is generally ex- 
 pedted in the eaflern and northern feas, when they are obferved to leap 
 out of the water ; fo that the fea-faring people of thefe parts make a jeft 
 of fuch prognoftics. 
 
 Triejle is pleafantly fituated on a hill, and forms a femi-circle, which 
 is encompafled with vineyards. The town is but fmall. The caftle, 
 which flands on an eminence, i& furrounded with ditches, or moats -, 
 but is otherwife in a poor condition, the garrifon confifting only of five- 
 and-forty men. They are at prefent raifing fome fortifications on both 
 fides of the narrow paflTage into the inward harbour, or bafon. 
 
 Qbferi-ationi 
 on do If him. 
 
 Triefte. 
 
 * A Zecchino, or Sequin, is equal to 9 i. zd. fterling. \ A lira is about 6il. flerling. 
 X In his DiJJ'ertatw de Beleno (^ aliis quibtifdain Diis Jqu'dejenfibus^ which he has added to 
 
 his Alonumcnta Vetcris Jiitii, 
 
 The
 
 '^. ^ i\A^ 4 355 
 
 The entrance into the large harbour is from fixty to fevcnty-elght^^'^'^'"^- 
 feet in depth. In this harbour we faw forty merchant fliips, and the 
 6'/. Elizabelh, an Imperial man of war of fixty-five guns ; but the latter 
 has not yet been out at fea. Near the Lazaretto, a TurkjJJj Tartane., 
 with red colours, emblazoned with three crefcents, ZSc. was performing 
 quarantine. The outward harbour is very commodious, and may be " 
 
 confiderabiy enlarged by taking in the peninfula on which the Lazarettd 
 ftands, to build a new mole on. The founc^ations of an ancient mole, 
 which was probably built by the Rofua7is, ' is flill to be feen in the 
 fea. 
 
 The inhabitants of Triejle affirm, that their harbour is much fafer 
 than that of F/?^/«f, as the latter is furrounded with high hills, which 
 makes the wind recoil back towards the harbour. Befides, the iflands 
 o^ Pero/Ina, Cherfo and Veglia, lying before it, make the entrance into 
 the harbour of Fiiwie (o incommodious, that it frequendy happens when 
 there is the faireft wind out at fea, the Sirocco, cr fouth-wind, hin- 
 ders a vellel from making its way out of the road. Trie/ie is alfo much 
 more conveniently fituated for carrying on a trade betwixt Germany and 
 Italy. 
 
 On the other hand, thofe who are for making Fiume the feat of 
 commerce, maintain that the harbour oi'Tricfte is too fmall; and, as it has 
 not fo much frefh water as that of Fiume, the road of Triejle is infefted 
 with a kind of worm, which faflens to fliips, and does them a great deal 
 of damage; of which there is an inftance in the Elizabeth man of war, 
 which, though it is but five years fince it was firfl built, is fo worm- 
 eaten, that it cannot be fitted for fea for lefs than fifteen thoufand 
 guilders *. The ff icklers for Fiume farther alledge, that the Triejle 
 road is not fo fafe as the other; requiring ten or twelve men to manage 
 a vefTel in a fform ; whereas in that of Fiume, during the whole winter, 
 one man and a boy are fufRcient to weather it out. Indeed the Bora^ 
 or north-eaft wind, often occafions very great damages in both harbours, 
 but is mofl dangerous in that of Triejle. Thefe and other objedions, 
 made by both places againfl each other, fliew that neither of the har- 
 bours is free from very great difadvantages. But the emperor, in his 
 laudable zeal for promoting the commerce of his dominions in the Me- 
 diterranean, has the interefl: of both places equally at heart. The privi- 
 leged Levant company formerly kept their warehoufes and fi^dlory at 
 Triejle, but are lince removed to Fiut?u'. 
 
 The natives of Triefle are accufed of being lazy and proud ; of ntszxCemuinfthe 
 applying themfelves to any ufeful employment; and of being of fuch a j^f^^jj^"""' ^^ 
 
 * A Cuiliier is about 2 j". 4 d. 
 
 Z z 2 mali-.
 
 35^ 
 
 r R I E s r 
 
 Fi/hing el 
 Tfielie and 
 Fiume. 
 
 Tratfi cf 
 
 Triefte. 
 
 Sult-^uarks 
 
 malicious temper, that they moleft and injure ftrangcrs to the utmoH: of 
 their power. 
 
 The fea about Triefte and Fiume affords excellent fifli : but the 
 fifhermen are fo lazy and indolent that they never go out to fifli till want 
 compels them ; and even then they referve the befl: fifli for themfelves 
 to feaft on. And though there may be fome few induftrious men among 
 them, yet the inhabitants are but very ill ferved with fifli ; the produce 
 of their labour being carried to Vetiicc, v.'here every thing fetches a better 
 price than at home, 
 
 Befidcs the annual fair, lately inftituted, the ftaple commodities of 
 'Triefte are fait, oil, almonds, iron, and minerals, which are brought thi- 
 ther by the way of Laiibach. 
 
 Some falt-pits have been made among the windings of the harbour 
 where the fea is very fliallow, in which the fait is made in the following 
 manner : When the hot weather begins, a level fpot of land, which is 
 divided into fmall fquare compartments, or pans, is overflowed, by means 
 of a fluice, with the falt-water in a fpring-tide ; but the return of the 
 tide is carefully prevented when the pans are once filled with water. 
 The falt-water, by ftanding feveral weeks expofed to the air and fun, 
 is gradually exhaled, and the fait fubfiding to the bottom is every morn- 
 ing taken out. As for the fmall quantity of water that remains, it is 
 ealily boiled into fait. In a hot and dry fummer, the profits arifing from 
 thefe works are much more confiderable than when the weather hap- 
 pens to be wet and cool. The Va^etiam have eflablifhed larger and 
 more advantageous falt-works of this kind at Miiglia, which is not far 
 from Triefte. 
 Unhtahhy-air.. But thefe advantages are accompanied with feveral inconveniences j 
 for the flagnant and putrid water, by its exhalations, communicates a 
 noxious unhealthy quality to the air ; which is very fenfibly felt at Triejie, 
 where the foil is marfhy, and, after the tide, which rifes there fome- 
 times four or five feet, is out, emits a very naufeous fmell. The fait 
 made there, as mentioned above, is very coarfe and black, but is whi- 
 tened and refined by boiling. 
 
 The Jefiiits church at Triefte is a handfome fiirudlure ; but has neither 
 good paintings, nor any other ornaments worth oblerving. In the 
 church near the caftle are two chapels on one fide of the high altar, 
 adorned with a great deal of old mofaic-work. The flreets of this 
 town are very narrow and uneven, except only in the market-place, 
 where there is a very convenient walk. 
 
 The hire and keeping of a horfe from Triefte to Fiume comes to 
 three R}je?jiJ}: guilders. The road for carriages lies through Adeljherg, 
 
 5 a^d 
 
 Jetakhcbutrb. 
 
 Mead from 
 Triefte to
 
 TRIESTE. 357 
 
 and takes up two days ; whereas the journey of five-and-forty Italia?!, 
 or nine German miles, as it is computed, over thofe ftony and rugged 
 mountains of I/lria and Carniola, called Monte dclla Vena, is eafily per- 
 formed in a day and a half on horfeback. 
 
 About two or three Italian miles from Tric/ie lies a fine tradl of land, Excellent 
 famous for producing two forts of wine ; one of which is called Vino de '^'"'' 
 R^, the othtr Vino di Santi Martiri ; but the latter grows four in fix 
 months, whereas the former will keep five or fix years. 
 
 A vineyard on the other fide of Tric/Je towards Aqiiilcja produced a fort ^j^" ^^J"/., 
 of wine in very high repute among the ancients, to which Julia Atiguji a andean: 
 attributed her long life, having attained to the age of eighty-two *■ It 
 was called Pucinum viniim, and derived its name from an ancient cafi:le 
 called Pucinufn ; but where that fort ftood is at prefent not eafily deter- 
 mined. Some will have it to be Caftello Duino, and others fuppofe it 
 to be Profecho, or Projecio. The latter belongs to the houfe of Aujlria., 
 and the wine it produces is called Projegno, in German., Rainjall wine, 
 and is highly commended both for its delightful flavour, and its falutary 
 quality ; for it is not in the leafl heady, and its mildnefs particularly re- 
 commends it to the ladies. 
 
 About a German mile •+■ from I'rie/le, the caftle of S. Servulo ftands Cawrn »«■«>• 
 on a high mountain, which yields a very pleafant profpe<fl. Near it is ' "^■"°' 
 the entrance of a famous cavern, in which the lapideous exfudations have 
 formed feveral large pillars, and a variety of figures of white or brown 
 colour on the top and fides. This cavern is very fpacious, and the en- 
 trance into it is on the fide of the mountain. For the conveniency of 
 thofe v/ho are fond of natural curiofities, betwixt twenty and thirty ftone 
 fteps have been made to afcend to the entrance. The paflages within 
 are, indeed, in fome places, in a ruinous condition ; and if a perfon is 
 inclined to take a view of every part of this cavern, and to go through 
 its windings and paflages, he will meet with fome difiiculty. In the 
 firft; cell you come into, mafs is celebrated at certain times, for which 
 purpofe it is furnifhed with an altar. 
 
 * PUn. HiJ}. Nal. lib. iii. c. ig. Atymis Timavus, caJleUiim nobile vino Pucinum, Ter^ 
 gejiitms fmus ' The river Timavus; the caftle of Pucinum famous for its wine ; the bay 
 
 • oiTrie/ie And lib. xiv. c. 6. Julia Jugujla \x-Kxn. annos vii<e Pmim (vino) rttulit acccp- 
 
 ios, nan alio ufa. Gignitur in finu Adriutici maris non procul a Tirncroo fonte, jaxcs colic, mantimo 
 offiatu paucas coquente amphoras.- Nee aliud aptius medicamentis judicaiur. ' yiilia Augujla 
 ' thought thnt her living to the age of eighty-two years was owing to tlie Pucinum wine> 
 ' as flie drank no other. It is produced on a rocky eminence near the Adriatic coaft, not 
 
 • far from the Timavus, and only a few caflcs of it are made; no other wine is accounted 
 ' to come up to it for medicinal ufes.' 
 
 t A geometrical German mile is about four Englijh, or five Italian milcK ; but the eom- 
 guted miles ^e lenger. 
 
 In
 
 358 Ps^IyM M E. 
 
 Mother cave. Jd ^ j-Qck )uft uiidcr the caftle of S. Servuh is another cave, to the. 
 entrance of which we paffed over a draw-bridge. Here the inhabitants 
 of the neighbouring country ufed formerly, in troublefome times, to 
 lodge their mofl: valuable etfeds ; and by drawing up the bridge, fecured 
 them from the enemy, 
 BaiTcnfoU. There is but little grafs to be feen in thefe parts, which is, indeeti, 
 generally the cafe in mountainous countries. In feveral places hereabouts 
 the fingle white and red piony grows wild in the woods ; but the country 
 in general is very barren, rocky, and but thinly inhabited. 
 R-^zaza. About half-way betwixt I'riefle and Fiime lies Razaza ; and twelve 
 
 or fifteen Italian miles from thence, a traveller has the pleafure of en- 
 tering on a good road, which is rendered fo by art and labour. 
 Caflua. The little town of Caflua, fo called from its great number of chefnut- 
 
 trees, lies on the right-hand, and is a lorddiip belonging to the Jejuits 
 college at Fitwie -, which, with lome other lands in Camiola, were a 
 donation of one of the countelles oi T'hombanjhi. 
 Fiume. Fiume lies by the fea-fide, on a fmall plain in the middle of a valley 
 
 Fertility of the that produccs good wine, figs, and other fruit. The fig-trees bear twice 
 ^°'^- a year; but the latter fruit is not fo large as the firft. The fruit in ge- 
 
 iJ'eatl.-^: ncpal hcrc is excellent, by reafon of the frequent viciffitudes of rain and 
 fun-fliine in this climate. 
 
 The city is very populous, and the inhabitants in general are more 
 wealthy than thofe of T'riefte. . Near the arfenal and the harbour, which 
 is formed by the river Fiumara (in the Sclavonia?i language called Ricca, 
 or Reka) are feveral pleafant walks. Over the inner gate, towards the 
 fea, the ftatues of the emperors Leopold and Charles VI. are erected, with 
 an infcription, fignifying that the former vifited this place in the year 
 1684, and the latter in 1728. 
 Lazaretto. The Lazaretto lies at fome difiance from the city, on the right-haad, 
 
 near the fea. It is a handfome fpacious building, and w-as finiftied in 
 the year 1724. One part of it is, at prefent, ufed as warehoufes for 
 t\\t Levant company, where there are feparate buildings, in which mer- 
 Sluarantine. chaudifes brought from infeded places are laid up to perform quaran- 
 tine. 
 
 Another edifice near it is appointed for Chriftians only, who, from an 
 apprehenfion of their carrying fome contagious dillemper with them, are 
 not immediately permitted to come on fhore ; and in the court-yard 
 there is a fine marble altar, where mafs is faid every day. Behind this 
 building are quartered fuch Jeivs and Turks as are fufpeded to come from 
 places infedted with the plague. 
 Caution to be Somc of our Company being ignorant of the method of performing 
 4,hfirwdhtn. quarantine, were defirous of feeing thofe apartments, which they fup- 
 
 pofed
 
 359 
 
 F I U M E. 
 
 pofed to be empty. This imprudence might liave involved them in a great 
 deal of trouble, had not one of the perfons that were confined there, out 
 of good-natuie, called out fcveral times as loud as he could, advifing 
 them not to come any farther ; for it feems if they had once entered the 
 place, they muft unqueftionably have kept company with the reft, and 
 be confined there for two-and-forty days. Of this our guide, who at a 
 moft improper time had itepped out of the way, informed us ; for all 
 converfation with fuch as are performing quarantine is ftridly prohibited. 
 Even their food is only brought them into a certain part of the court ; 
 from whence, when thofe who brought it are withdrawn, they are 
 obliged to fetch it themfelves. 
 
 On the coaftof the bay of Fiume are feveral copious fpringsof frefli water, Frcfi/prings 
 within very few paces of the fea, which makes the bay extremely pleafant. y '''^ f'"-/^^- 
 This is a proof that fprings and wells do not derive their origin imme- 
 diately from the fea by fubterraneous paflages, but from the rain and 
 dew that fetdes on the mountains. 
 
 The cathedral of Fiume, though it is not yet finifhed, is worth feeing. Cathedral. 
 being adorned with feveral beautiful marble pillars and ftatues. To this 
 church belong feven canons, who have the extraordinary privilege of 
 filling up the vacancy when any one of the number dies. Fiume is fub- 
 jeft to the Venetian bifliop of Pola in matters of religion -, who is not, 
 however, inverted with the power of immediate vifitation, but performs 
 it by the archiprefbyter of Fiume ; and, even for this, a licence from the 
 emperor muft be previoufly obtained. 
 
 The ^c/rt//^ church, like the cathedral, is not yet finiftied, and pof- C'^^f <""*' 
 fibly never will, as the college enjoys large endowments, and has con- j^'^^j^''^"^ '''^' 
 fiderable legacies left it in order to complete the building. This edifice 
 is of a circular form, with a fmall cupola which has an aperture at the 
 top. Behind a moveable pidture over the high altar is kept a pretended 
 miraculous crucifix, which being once ftruck by a profane wretch ^'"■"'■y•'"•• 
 with a ftone, as the ftory goes, immediately bled profufely. The "''"■^''' 
 ftone, faid to be that which was thrown againft the crucifix, and fome 
 drops of blood that ilTued from the crucifix, are kept in a glafs, and 
 fhewed to ftrangers. 
 
 The company which trades to the Levant have at prefent, a fadory at Faaory of the 
 Fiume, and carry on a great X.x's.^&io Portugal, in honey, wax, oiJ, me- ^"^^^"^ '"""'■ 
 tals, minerals, linen, ^c. which are brought hither ixom. Hungary, Si- t,Vax trade, 
 le/ia, Moravia, and Aujlria. The company is impowered to take what 
 quantity they judge necelTary of the wax brought for the Venetians from 
 Hungary by the way o^Buccari, paying no more than the prime coft, and 
 the charge of carriage to Buccari. 
 
 The-
 
 'rdo r R I E S T E. 
 
 Great quan- T}ie J'e?ieticvis ycai'ly import wax, from Hungary alone, to the amount 
 "nie/aT\l. '^^ ^^^ hundrccl thoulaiici i^/^a;///.' guilders*; and the greatefl: part of 
 nice. this is confumed in that city. The Venetians often boaft, that on Good- 
 
 Friday only (v/hen, befides other churches, &c. the church and place 
 oi St. Mark are illuminated Vvith large flambeaux) more wax is confumed 
 in Venice than at Rome in a whole year. 
 ■J5^j y f iuine. The Goifo di Carnero, or bay of i^/V;«^, derives its name from an ancient 
 people called Carni, frequently mentioned by Pliny, and other hillio- 
 rians, from whom the dutchy of Carniola derives its name. This bay is 
 alfo termed Sirms Folanus, from the neighbouring colony of Colchians, 
 who inhabited the city of Pola, the name of which occurs in Fomp. 
 Mela, lib. ii. c. 3. Plin. lib. iii, 19. z.v\^Ammianiis Marcellinus, lib. xiv. 
 It was polTibly from a corruption of that word that Pliny, c. 2\. calls it 
 Sinus Flanaticiis, unlefs this appellation he rather derived from the Fla- 
 Jiates, and the town of Flanona, or Flamona, which are both to be 
 found in Pliny, I. iii. c. 21, and Ptolemy, in his defcription ol Libur- 
 nia. From Flawona the Gerjnans have formed the word Flaiim ; for they 
 call the town of Fiume, SanB Veit ajii Flaitm. All this, however, is little 
 more than uncertain conjediure; and the laft name may poffibly be de- 
 rived from Fanimi S. Viti Flomonienfis, or ad Flumen, becaufe the Fiumara, 
 or il Fiume di Carnero, which feems to have been the ancient Oeneus, or 
 rather the Ti/ius, here fall into the fea. 
 
 The Fiumara abounds with fifh, and is particularly remarkable for its 
 fine falmon-trouts, the flefli of which is quite red. // Golfo di Carnero is 
 alfo well ftocked vvith fine fifh, and efpecially the Gatto. This fifli grows 
 to a confiderable bignefs, and its f!<.in is ufed as a kind of fliagreen, to 
 make cafes for watches, ZSc. 
 
 The voyage from Fiume to Naples is generally performed in four or 
 five days. But this conveniency, on account of the prefent war in 
 Italy, \^ not very advantageous to the inhabitants of Carniola and I/lria,and 
 efpecially to the city of Fiume ; for the troops which are tranfported into 
 Italy are quartered upon them in their march. Nor are i\\c ISleapolitans, 
 whofe barques and tartanes are taken up for tranfports, better pleafed, as the 
 contrary winds often keep them whole weeks at lea off Fiume, and thus 
 lays them under a neceffity of fpending the money that they get for 
 freight; the emperor paying them only for the time they are out in 
 the voyage from Fiume to Naples, and vice "oerjd. Some days before 
 my arrival, three battalions had fet fail ; but were detained above a week 
 by the Sirocco, or fouth-eafl wind, among the iflands of Perojina, Cherjb, 
 
 * A guilder is about is. 4?/. 
 
 Veglia,
 
 F I U M E. 361 
 
 P'rgh'a *, y^rl>t\ Pago, and Ofora, which lie before the gulph of Ftume, 
 where they fuffered extremely by the violent heats. 
 
 The port of Fiume, on account of the fliallownefs of the water, has 
 no conveniency for building fliips -, fo that it would be neceflary to make 
 the Scala, or flocks, from whence fliips fliould be lanched into the wa- 
 ter, of too great a length, in order to carry the (liips to a proper depth, as 
 is pradlifcd at Porto Re. 
 
 The river Fiumara falls into the fea near Fiume, and ferves as a hoiin- The i-Tier- 
 dary betwixt Germany and Croatia; fo that the imperial governor of^j^"j"^'' 
 Fiume has no authority on the other fide of that river. In fome maps 
 Fiume is placed in Germany; others will have it to be in Italy -f ; but it 
 properly belongs to the aticient L.ihiirnia, from whence the adjacent fea 
 was alfo called Mare Lihiiryiicwn. Old coins, pieces of mofaic-work, and 
 other antiques, are frequently found in the earth, in this country. The 
 noble road which his imperial majefty has caufed to be made, at his ■^^'■''^''''«'' '''"'•^■ 
 own expence, for the conveniency of trade and commerce, begins here. 
 It is carried on already about eight German miles X, and in three years 
 time will be continued as far as Carljladt. From this laft place the coun- 
 try is naturally level ; and when the whole work is completed, the car- 
 riages from Belgrade will perform their journey in ten or twelve days lefs 
 than they have hitherto done. , 
 
 On a mountain, about an Italian mile and a half to the north-eafl o^ Con-vent of 
 Fiume, lies the ancient Cajlrum TerfaSlenfc, or the modern celebrated ^«"*^"- 
 convent of Terfatc, in which forty Francifcan monks conftantly refide. 
 It was founded in the year 143 i hy Martina Count of Frangipani, whofe 
 anceflofs were proprietors of this country ; on which account, two lions 
 tearing a loaf of bread to pieces, which is the coat of arms of that illuf- 
 trlous family, are to be feen in fcveral places in this convent. The 
 founder, and two of his brothers, lie buried here. 
 
 We afcended homFiu?ne to the convent by flone-fleps, the number of 
 which can never be afcertained, as is pretended, though counted ever fo 
 often ; but one of the fathers candidly told me, that for his part, he had 
 found them, upon repeated trials, to be juft four hundred and eighty. 
 
 The principal chapel in the church is faid to be built on the fpot Pli^e f./wv 
 where, for three years and feven months, the Cafa Santa, or the dwel- '^^^^^"^^j^^_ 
 ling-houfe of the virgin Mary, flood, before it was carried away by an- Tiuo/cimerly 
 
 food. 
 
 * Veglia, Viglia, or Vcgium, ftems to be the ifland of Cur'ifta mentioned by Pliny, lib. iii. 
 c. 11. For the Sclavonians to this ihiy call it Kirk ; but in time it has got a new name, 
 Vegiuw^ from a town on the neighbouring continent, of the fame name, which is likewile 
 Rier^tioned by Pliny. 
 
 t It is properly m.I/lria. 
 
 X A geometrical Gerir.an mile, fifteen of which make a degree, is about four Englijh 
 miles ; but many of the computed German miles are equal to five or fix Englifh miles. 
 
 Vol. III. A a a gels
 
 362 Convem of TE RS AT 0. 
 
 gels toLorefio, in the year 1294. Nicola Frangipani obtained leave froini 
 
 the Pope to build this chapel on the ground, which had been foconfecrated 
 
 by the Caja Santa. It is pretended that the foundation of this chapel 
 
 exactly correfponds with that of the fmall houfe which is held fo facred 
 
 Ccr.traSacd at Lorctto. Though this is poiitively allertcd by the fuperftitious, it is 
 
 Lyjcular ei;. ^^,)^^^ ^^ body, who has takcn a view of both chapels, will aflent to. 
 
 The holy houfe of Lorello is broader, and even the fanftuary behind 
 
 the altar, faid to have been the virgin Mary's kitchen, is more fpacious 
 
 tlian the chapel o( 'Ter/hto, as may be perceived by the eye at firft fight. 
 
 The whole length of it is forty-four geometrical feet, the breadth fome- 
 
 thing more than twenty, and the height twenty-eight. Over the altar 
 
 Po'traii cf the |g ^ pi(fture of the virgin Mary painted on cedar, pretended to be 
 
 X^'-'lmU. f^o"^ by St. Luke, which was fent hither in 1362," as a prefent, by pope 
 
 Urban V. Travellers arc generally prefented with a copper-plate of this 
 
 pidure, with thefe Latin rhyming verfes under it : 
 
 Ccrcnata Mater Dei, Mdem qiiidem hinc tidijli\ 
 
 Tu Solamen cordis jiici, Attamcn hie permanjijti^ 
 
 Spcs es & refugium, Regifia dementia', 
 
 HiC in fede gratianim Nobis i?ide gratulamur, 
 
 Monjira nobis pigmis charum^ Digni quod hie habeaniur 
 
 jfefam tuum Filium. Maternce prce fent ice *. 
 
 Hue cum domo advenijli ^a hie coronata Jedes 
 
 JJt qua pia Mater Chri/ii Ante tiios fiexi pedes 
 
 Dijpetifares gratiam^ Adoramus Filium, 
 
 Nazarethum tibi ortus, Dwn tenellumfmu laEIas, 
 
 Scd T'erfaSlum primus portm, Twie pro 7iobis precesjaffas^ 
 
 Petenti banc patriatn. Triadis Triclinium. 
 
 V. Domum iuam, Domlne, decet San&itudo. 
 J^. in longitudinem dierum. 
 
 * Crowned mother of God, my hope, my refuge, and the folace of 
 • my heart. In this feat of the graces fhew to us that dear pledge, thy 
 
 ' fon Jefus. O bountiful mother of Chrift, thou cameft hither wit-h 
 ' thy houfe in order to dlfpenfe thy favours. If Nazareth gave thee 
 ' birth, Terfato was the firft port which received thee in thy voyage to 
 ' this country. O queen of mercy, it is true thou didft convey thy 
 
 * Though this be an offence a2;ainft the Syntax, I have fet it down as I found it. [This 
 hypercriticifm might have hcen omitted, tlignus being found with a genkive cafe in the 
 moft ancient and clailical i?WM?2 writers. Vid. Ciaro adJtiic. I. viii. ep. 15. PLiuius and 
 Firi,:il put the noun governed of hidignm in the genitive cafe. The Gtcek »|i©- alfo gor 
 verns the fame cafe.] 
 
 '■ houfe
 
 Cojivejit of T E R SATO. 363 
 
 * houfe from hence ; yet thou doft ftill remain amongft us. We there- 
 ' fore glory in being accounted worthy of thy maternal prcfence. Here 
 
 * thou fitteft magnificently crowned ; and whilfl: we proftrate at thy 
 ' feet, adore thy infant fon, to wiiom thou art giving fuck, be plcafcd 
 
 * to offer up prayers for us ; for in thee the Trinity dwells. 
 
 * V. O Lord, holinefs becometh thy houfe. 
 
 * J^. For ever and ever.' 
 
 Or emus : 
 Detis, qui Beata Maria Virginis Domiim per incarnati verhi myjleriuht 
 mifericorditer confecrajli, eamque in Jinu Ecclejice tuce miraii liter collocdjli^ 
 loncede, ut fegregati a tabernaculis feccatorum digjii efficiamur habitatores 
 Aomiis Jan5lce tua, per Chriftum Doininum 7ioftrum. y}men. 
 
 O Maria ! ejlo inihi Mria *, 7iunc (3 in hora mortis mea. Amen. 
 
 ' Let us pray* 
 * O God, who by the myftery of thy incarnate word haft mercifully 
 
 * confecrated the houfe of the bleffed virgin Mary, and wonderfully 
 ' placed it in the bofom of thy church ; grant that we, being feparated 
 
 * from the dwellings of finners, may be made worthy inhabitants of thy 
 ' holy houfe, through ^fefiis Ctrift our Lord. Amen. 
 
 ' O Mary, be merciful to me now, and at the hour of my death !' 
 
 The mountain of Terfato, like the reft of the hills about Fiiime, pro- 
 duces wild fage in abundance, which gives a very agreeable flavour to 
 the flefli of the flieep and goats that feed on it -f-. This herb is made 
 ufe of by the inhabitants inftead of tea, efpecially in the convent. 
 
 In all the country about Triefte I never faw what may be properly called 
 a foreft ; and the rocky mountains of Fiime, along the coafts of Croatin 
 and Dalmatia, produce only fmall thickets, between which the peafants 
 have here and there cleared fome little fpots from ftones, and made 
 them fit for culture. The level ground along the fea-coaft is every 
 v;here very narrow ; and at Zeng, which is about as large as Flume, 
 the acclivity begins at the diftance of twenty paces from the town. 
 
 We went to Porto Re in a Caica of fix oars, for the hire of which we 
 paid three RheniJJj gilders X- This is generally a paffage of about two 
 
 * Mria, in which .ire almoft all the letters of the name Maria, is a defigned contradion 
 •of the word M'lfericorJ.'ia. 
 
 t Spariijh mutton is generally accounted the bell, on account of the thyme, marjoram, 
 and other fweet herbs growing in their paftures. 
 
 X About 75. fieri ing. 
 
 A a a 2 hours
 
 364 B U CCA R I and P RTO RE. 
 
 hours. The way by land is fomething nigher ; btit if a traveller takes 
 that route, he muft hire a boat at Buccari to crofs ove? to Forto Rdy 
 which takes up about half an hour, 
 
 Euccaii. Bucciiri is a. place of fuch trade, that it pays the emperor above fe- 
 
 vcnty thouland^?//^?^* a year, hycuftoms, licences, and excife ; whereas 
 the imperial revenue aiifing from Fiumc does not exceed thirty-four thou- 
 fand, and from the whole county of Goritia only thirteen thoufand gul- 
 dtms. In the hiilory of the wars Avith the Ufcocks, frequent mention is 
 made of £//cr/?/7 ; for thofe lavvlefs people often made ufe of it as their 
 place of retreat. It formerly belonged to the Sen'm family, together 
 with feveral other eftates in thefe parts ; but by the treafon, of which 
 count Pictro Sen'jii wzs convifted, they were all forfeited. The diftance 
 from Buccari to T'erfato is twelve thoufand, and to Zeng twenty-four 
 thoufand geortietrical paces. 
 
 The town of 5z/(:c^;/ ftands on a rocky hill, and formerly the road. 
 was fo fteep and craggy, that a fingle horfe could fcarce go thither by 
 way of Fiume ; but now it is pradicable for heavy-loaded carriages to 
 pnf? both ways. Indeed neither expence nor labour has been fpared for 
 accompliihing this ufeful work ; for lefs than an Italian mile of this road 
 cofl: twenty thoufand guldens. 
 
 The harbour, or rather the gulph of Buccari, is commodious and 
 fafe ; but it is a little expofed to the fouth-eaft wind, which fometimes 
 makes it dangerous. In this gulph, and at Porto Re is caught a kind of 
 li(h called Tonina +, (in hatin, Titms) of an exquifite tafte, and five or 
 fix feet in length ; but thefe Tcnine are generally carried to Venice^ 
 where they are fold for nine or twelve yo/j % a pound ; whereas at Buccari y 
 three job., or two light crutzers a pound are reckoned a great price for 
 that fiHi. 
 
 r«rto Re. What chiefly draws the attention of a ftranger on this coafi: arc the 
 
 preparations which the imperial court is carrying on at Po7-to Re, in or- 
 der to make a dock-yard for building of floips. It is certain that a fleet 
 is very necefi*ary to the houfe o( Auftria, for the defence of the ifland of 
 Sicily, and the reft of its dominions in Italy, and accordingly it has 
 been what the emperor has had principally in view for ten years paft. 
 Bat as this is an undertaking which requires many millions of money, 
 his imperial majefty at firft afiigned a great part of the revenue of the 
 kingdom of Naples for this fervice : however, on account of fome dif- 
 putes and jealoufes which arofe among the imperial minilVry, the work 
 has not been profecuted with a fpirit and vigour anfwerable to the be- 
 ginning. The zrchhi^ho^ of Valenza could not, without concern, fee 
 
 * A gulden is equal to 2 ;. 4 d. fterling. t Tuiiny-fifh. % About 2 d. 
 
 4 the
 
 P R r R E'. 2^(i^ 
 
 the revenues of Naples appropriated to the fervice of the navy, v/hich 
 was not under his direction ; and, probably, he fufpeded that the mar- 
 quis de Rialp, who was the archbilhop's declared enemy, only aimed at 
 depriving him from having the difpolal of the above-mentioned branch 
 of the public revenue, v/ithout ever applying it to the ufes propofed by 
 
 my lord For/w. Count S , who alio had a hand in this aftair, 
 
 was not for breaking either with the archbifliop of Valenza, or the mar- 
 quis of Ri'alp; fo that this advantageous plan was poftponed, though the 
 remaining funds were fufficient for fitting out and maintaining fix or 
 feven fhips of war. Had this projedl been completely executed, the dif- 
 ficulty of improving and augmenting the emperor's navy would have 
 been afterwards very inconfiderable. It was fet on foot fo early as the 
 years 1720, 172 1, and 1722. My lord Forces might indeed have greatly J^f ^^,.^ 
 promoted his private intereft by it ; but he perfifted in refufing to take Foxhei's gene- 
 upon him the command of the fieet, till he faw it in a condition to do''"-^-*' 
 him honour ; and by that refufal he drew upon himfelf the hatred both 
 of the archbifliop and the marquis ; and thefe differences proved ex- 
 tremely detrimental to the Imperial intereft. 
 
 However, a harbour and dock have been lately begun at Pcrto Ri'., 
 which, when completed, it is fuppofed, will be extremely commodious. 
 This work is conducted by vice-admiral Dei-<:hmmi?i, a Dane, who is ce- 
 lebrated for his fkill in naval afi'airs : He is in hopes of completing his 
 plan in three years*. The difficulties to be furmounted for this end 
 cannot be viewed without aftonifliment. A hard rock lies under the 
 water all along the fhore, which mufl be dug. away firom the bottom, 
 that the new-built fliips, when they are lanched from the ftocks, may 
 immediately come into three fathoms or eighteen feet of water ; and a 
 thick wall or breaft-work of free-ftone has been built by the water's 
 edge. Four or five hundred Croats are daily employed in this work, 
 who labour cheerfully for fmall wages, as they have been ufed to live 
 very hard ; and Mr. Dcichmann commends them as a quiet laborious 
 people, and fo contented with their condition, that in the evening, after 
 their toilfom day's work, they go home finging, and in good fpirits. 
 The harbour is broader than it appears at firll; fight ; for it will conve- 
 niently hold fix-and-thirty men of war in a line. The entrance is but 
 narrow, and well defended by the batteries which are already railed 
 there : But on an eminence at a point of land towards the fouth, they 
 defign to build a rcgulai* fortification. This will command the whole 
 entrance of the bay, which extends as far as Buccari. 
 
 * Poffibly this gentleman's death, which happened in 1731, may retard this woik a 
 fecond time : However, his place is fupplied by one PaHiviciniy an Italian cngijxcr. 
 
 Oppo-
 
 366 PORTO R E. 
 
 SenvAcajlU. Oppofite to this fortrefs are two caftles, which together with all this 
 country, formerly belonged to the unfortunate Count Seritii. The more 
 modern of the two is a very ftrong, large, quadrangular building, with 
 four round towers, and vaulted underneath. Under this edifice is a deep 
 ciftern, of a circumference almoft as large as the whole caftle, fupported 
 by a double row of pillars, which contains a fufficient quantity of frefli 
 water to fupply ten thoufand men upon occafion, 
 
 LMngjhill- I muft not omit a natural curiofity the vice-admiral was fo obliging as. 
 
 fijhindofidin jQ fliew me, which was fome live fhell-fifli Inclofed in large blocks of 
 
 ' ■ a kind of very hard brown marble, taken up from the bottom of the har- 
 
 bour, after the latter had with much labour, been broken to pieces. This 
 Ihell-fifh, differs from the Dattili del mare, which I mentioned in my 
 account of Ancona, not only in fliape and colour, but alfo in hardnefs. 
 Thofe oi Porto Re are very fmooth, and of a brown colour, and in fize 
 and figure refemble dates more than xhok oi AnconUy the outfides of 
 which are white and rough. Befides, the former were inclofed in a very 
 hard kind of marble ; whereas the latter were only inverted with a foft 
 ftone or clay. For an account of the formation and growth of this kind of 
 fifh, I muft refer you to my obfervations on the Dattili del mare of An- 
 cona *. The fame fort of fifh are alfo found in flones full of holes near 
 the caflle of Diiyno, which lies on the gulf of Venice, oppofite to Monte^ 
 falcone, and about three ftages from Triejle. 
 
 I am, &c. 
 Fiume, June i, 1730. 
 
 * See vol. ii. \a the dcfcription of AncoKa. 
 
 LETTER
 
 AD L SEE R G. ' 367. 
 
 LETTER LXXVIII. 
 
 An Account of fome remarkable Caverns in the Diitchy of 
 Carniola\ and of the Cirknitzerfee, 
 
 SIR, 
 
 IN going from Fiume to Adljhcrg, I was obliged to return by the fame P-oad uTtd ceun- 
 road v/hich I had travelled in going from Triejle to the former, as pjume"" 
 fiir as Scnlitz, where I had before lodged all night. Scaliiz confifts only AdllLerg. 
 of a few mean houfes ; and the whole country is ftony and barren, and 
 in great want of frefli water, which is fo fcarce here, that they are 
 obliged to fetch it from Fiumc: but as it is brought hither in wine- 
 cafks, it is not very palatable for travellers. From Scaliiz, the foil and 
 the road gradually improve as you approach towards Adlfburg. The Langungnf 
 Sclavonian language is fpoken in this country almoll: as far as Laubach;'''^ "'"'"^^' 
 but perfons of any rank fpeak Italian and German^ befides their native 
 language. 
 
 Adljherg, in the Sclavonian language called Pofloina, is feven Gentimi 
 miles from Fiume. About half way up the acclivity near Ailljlwrg, juO: 
 by the mill, is the entrance into a large cavern, which is divided into a Miibcrgea-.r. 
 great number of fubterraneous paflages. A vaft many fparry iiicles, 
 formed on the arched roof of this vaft cavern, by the exfudation of a la- 
 pideous or petrifying fluid, are a kind of beautiful natural decorations 
 that wonderfully pleale the eye. The fides are covered with all kinds of 
 figures, formed by the fame exfudations, to which the imagination of 
 the curious fpedlator frequently gives various forms never intended by 
 nature ; lb that it is not at all ftrange that fome people fliould make out 
 the heads of horfes, dragons, tygers, and feveral other animals, among 
 thefe flalaclical fubflances. Several pillars, which are to be fccn on each /»///«,.[ ,;, u. 
 fide, proceed from the droppings of the petrifying fluid from the top, 
 which form a kind of fparry pillar on the bottom of the cave : this gra- 
 dually increales, till at lad it joins the ificle at the top, by meeting it 
 about halfway ; and thus a complete pillar is formed. If a perfon's cu- 
 riofity will carry him fo far, he may rove above two German miles in the 
 fubterraneous paflages of this cavern. 
 
 It is very remarkable that the river Foig^ which riles in this mountain Th ri-jcr 
 about a German mile from Adijberg^ runs again to it with an inverted ^°'2- 
 courfe, loles itfelf near the entrance of the cavern, and falls a great 
 
 depth.
 
 368 
 
 Cwverm near 
 LuL-g. 
 
 Stalki 
 
 Fine ciTve of 
 St. Mary 
 Magdalene. 
 
 Planlna. 
 
 P L A N I N A. 
 
 depth Into the rock, as is evident from its roaring noife, and the found 
 cauled by flinging a ftone into the hole. The fame river appears again 
 near PlaJiina; but foon after lofes itfclf a fecond time in a rock, and at 
 length emerges a third time, and affumes the name of the Laubacb. 
 
 About a German mile from AdIJherg, towards the north-weft, feveral 
 remarkable caverns are likewife to be feen. 
 
 In one of thefe a great part of the caftle of Lueg, which belongs to 
 count Cobejitzl, ftands as under cover. In the Caniiolan, or Sclavonian 
 language, this caftle is called yamtna ; and both its names fignify a hole, 
 or cave. 
 
 About a Gerjnan mile and a half from Adljherg., namely, at Preflari^ 
 the emperor has a fine ftable ; and alfo another at Lipiza, which lies 
 about two German miles and a half from hence towards Triejie ; and 
 in both, at prefent, are kept a great number of beautiful Neapolitan 
 horfes. 
 
 About two German miles from Adljherg is a remarkable cavern called 
 St. Mary Magdalene s cave, to which there is no going but on horfe- 
 back. The ftones and buflies make the road extremely troublefome ; 
 but the great fatigue is even over-paid by the fatisfadlion a curious per- 
 fon enjoys in feeing fuch an extraordinary cave. Though this cavern is 
 not equal to that of Adhberg in height ; yet in many other particulars it 
 far furpaffes it, and is, indeed, the finefl I ever faw. You firft defcend 
 into a kind of hole where the earth feems to be fallen in, for ten paces 
 before you come to the entrance, which looks like a fiilure in a huge 
 rock, caufed by an earthquake. Here the torches are always lighted to 
 condudt travellers ; for the cave is extremely dark. This wonderful ca- 
 vern is divided as it were into feveral large halls, and other apartments. 
 The vaft number of pillars with which it is ornamented by nature, give 
 it a fuperb appearance, and are exceeding beautiful ; for they are as 
 white as fnow, and have a kind of tranfparent luftre not unlike that of 
 white fugar-candy. The bottom is of the fame materials ; fo that a per- 
 Ibn may imagine he is walking among the ruins of fome ftately palace, 
 amidft noble pillars and columns, partly mutilated, and partly entire. 
 Sparry ificles are feen every where fufpended from the top, and in fome 
 places refemble a great number of w-ax-tapers, which appear extremely 
 beautiful to the eye, as they are of fuch a radiant white colour. All the 
 inconvcniency is, that the inequality of the bottom, where the malTes of 
 lapideous concretions lie in confufed heaps, caufes the fpedlator toftumbie 
 as he furveys the beauties of this furpriiing cave. 
 
 Near a German mile from this cavern lies the village of Planiua, called 
 by the Germans-, AlberF; where there is a poft-houle. Here alfo is a ca- 
 vern ; but it is fcarce worth feeing after that of St. Mary Magdalene. On 
 
 .? the
 
 C I RKNirZ E R S E E. 369 
 
 the right-hand, near Pla7ww, ftands a handfome country-feat called 
 Hasberg^ In adorning which Count Cohnifzl, who is the owner of it, Fiafterg. 
 has fpared no expence. The adjacent country is very mountainous and 
 focky. 
 
 Kx.Planina, thofe travellers who are curious, take horfe in order to go 
 to Cirknitz, which is about a German mile from it. This is but a fmall 
 village, and of itfelf not worth feeing ; but the lake, which lies about Defiriptkn of 
 half a leage from it, is very famous, and has been the fubjedt of the ''^;^ l"k' of 
 difquifitions of many naturalifts. Cirkmtz. 
 
 It is a common faying, that in the Cirhntzerfee, or lake of Cirk- Sonvhg, reap, 
 nitz., a perfon may fow and reap, hunt and fifh, within the fpace of one^""'.'"'.'^^^'"''- 
 year; but this is the leaft remarkable circumftance in it, and no more ^ff^a^/'f^;., 
 than what may be faid of any other fpot which is overflowed with water 
 in the winter or fpring. Beiides, the ground generally included in 
 the Cirknit-zerfee is feldom fovvn, becaufe it is uncertain how long it may 
 r-emain dry; for, poffibly, the place may be again entirely under water 
 within a few days after the grain is fown. In winter-time, indeed, this 
 lake is of great extent, and overflows a conliderable part ot the adjacent 
 fields, which, in fummer-time, are quite dry and fit for tillage. If thefe 
 be included in the lake, it may with truth be faid, that the peafants fow 
 and reap in it every year. But this is alio common to many tradls of 
 land on the banks of rivers. When the Cirknitzerjee is dry, the ruflies 
 (of which it produces vafl: quantities) are mowed for manure, and litter 
 for the cattle. If it remains long dry, as it has fometimes from the latter 
 end oi Jime to the latter end oi September, it produces a kind of grafs 
 which is ufed as fodder for the cattle. But the moft wonderful circum- 
 flance is the ebbing and flowing of this lake. The former happens in Itsftrangeebb 
 a long drought, whether it be in fummer or winter. And laft year the '""^•^'''^'" 
 water was entirely abforbed twice ; once during the fummer, and a fe- 
 cond time in the fucceeding winter. The lake generally continues to 
 ebb for five-and-twenty days, the water during that time running off by 
 holes, or cavities, which are eighteen in number, being like fo mmy eddies 
 or whirlpools. Thtfc cavities or pools do not abforb an equal quantity of 
 water in the fame fpace of time ; for that called Kamine empties itfelf in 
 five days ; and five days after that the Vodonos becomes dry. At the end 
 of the fucceeding five days the Refchetfo is evacuated ; and five days after 
 the latter, the Koten pool is empty ; and laftly, in five days more, the 
 Levifche is dried up. Thus in five-and-twenty days the whole bed of 
 the lake becomes dry, the water during that time, being alfo abforbed 
 by the other thirteen holes, or whirlpools. After a fortnight's fettled 
 drought in fummer, the lake is generally obferved to begin to ebb ; and 
 
 Vol. III. B b b if
 
 370 GIRKNirZERSEE. 
 
 If it happens to rain for two or three days it fills again. Inflances have 
 been known of its being dried up three times in a year. 
 RimarkaMe The FodoHOS pool has three eddies, or 'vortices, which abforb the water 
 
 method of fijh- y^\i^ a prodlgious noife. Vahafor, mentions a very fingular method of 
 '"^' fidiing in the cavity callixi Rlbefcajama. He tells us, thit when the 
 
 water is entirely run off into its fubtcrrancous relervoirs, the peafants go 
 down with lights through that cavity, which is in a hard rock, three or 
 four fathom under ground, to a folid bottom ; where the water runs off 
 again through very fmall holes, as through a fieve ; but the fiflies are 
 left behind, being as it were caught in a net provided by nature. Some 
 of the above-mentioned eighteen whirlpools, or cavities, are dried up in 
 few hours ; fo that if the ebb happens in the night-time, the peafants 
 firti by candle-light. At the fiirft appearance of the ebbing of the lake, 
 a bell is rung at Cirlmifz, as a fignal to give notice of it ; upon which 
 all the peafants of the neighbouring villages get every thing ready for 
 firtiing with the utmoft diligence ; for the fifli generally go off at the 
 beginning of the ebb, and feldom ftay till the water is confiderably 
 decreafed. 
 Lorj/hipi that ■ The inhabitants of the fix following lordfliips only are entided to fifh 
 have a right j^ d^jg ja^e, viz: Husberg, Steegberg, Auerjperg, Laas, Scbneeberg, and 
 0/ jtMing- ^j^^ convent of Sittich. The abovementioned Count Cobentzl, as lord of 
 Hdsberg, has farmed his fliare, together with another fifliery, if I am 
 not miftaken, for eleven thouland RljeniJJj guilders, to the Carthu/ian 
 monks of Freiidenthall, who, being prohibited from eating flefli by the 
 rules of their order, employ their own filhermen on the lake, in order to 
 fupply the convent with fifii. The proprietors of the above-mentioned 
 lordfliips fifli with large nets, with meflies of a determined fize, and ac- 
 cording to certain rules long fince fiiipulated between them. Some pools 
 or cavities, are affigned to the fifliermen for their trouble, v/ho fell their 
 Emptio fpei, chance before they caff their nets, if any of the fpedlators are inclined to 
 or chances jJd. ^^^ ^^^^ fortunc that Way. The lord of Steenberg, who is gover- 
 nor of Idi-a, told me, that once an humour took him to give thirty- 
 guilders for fuch a chance in one of thofe pools ; and that the quantity of 
 fifh caught in it amounted to fourteen cart-loads. 
 PrMlegt Any peafant may purchafe the liberty of fifliing in this lake for three 
 
 fhTHtfalti ^'tibenzehner, or one-and-fifty crutxers *, as often as he pleafes, till the 
 tQjijh^ water begins to fall: but upon the return of the water this licence mufl: 
 
 be purchafed again. 
 
 Some of the pools or cavities which have but few filh in thern^ 
 are given to the peafants to be cleared ; and when the water begins to 
 
 * About ^s. id, fierling. 
 
 4 fall.
 
 C I RKNirZ ER3 EE. 371 
 
 fall, and the bell is rung at Cirknitz, they all haAcn to the place to this 
 gleaning, as it is called, from which only a few holes are excepted. What 
 fi(h is not confumed or difpofed of while freHi, is dried by the fire. 
 Above a hundred peafants never fail to exert themfelves at thefe times ; 
 and the men and women promifcuoufly run to the pools flripped quite Both fixes j;^^ 
 naked. Both the magiftrates and clergy have indeed ufed their joint en- ""''''^• 
 deavours to fupprefs this indecent cuftom ; efpecially on account of the 
 young lay-brothers belonging to the convent which has the privilege of 
 fifliing here ; for they are apt at fuch times to leave the convent, in 
 order to indulge their curiofity in feeing this uncommon fpedacle, though 
 they are ftricflly prohibited by the fathers. But neither fex can be pre- 
 vailed on to wear any kind of covering on thefe occafions. It is true 
 thefe poor people mean no manner of harm by this indecent prac- 
 tice ; neither is it found that they are guilty of more lewdnefs or de- 
 bauchery at fuch times, than at others, when they are cloathed. But it 
 occafions a great deal of laughing and ribaldry among the Grangers 
 who happen to be prefent. Befides, to a reclufe, fuch a fight is a ftrong 
 temptation ; and though the women of the lower clafs in this country 
 are far from being handfome, yet they are not difagreeable to thofe who 
 never faw any of the fex but thefe wretches. 
 
 The Narte and Pimize pools abound with leeches, which are fald Lieches. 
 fometimes to gather in multitudes about the fifliermen ; and when once 
 they have faftened, they find it very difficult to difengage them. I pre- 
 fume the people of this country do not know, that they drop ofir'of 
 themfelves if a little fait be thrown upon them, unlefs, perhaps, they 
 look upon this method as too expenfive ; for they go a cheaper way to 
 work, by fprinkling fome of their own urine upon the leeches, to make 
 them quit their hold. For greater conveniency, and immediate applica- 
 tion in cafe they are attacked, the peafants carry fome of this natural 
 elixir about them when they go into the vi'ater. 
 
 The deepefl: part of the lake is on the right fide as you come from Pfa~ 
 7iina, near the village Jcffer (which in the Sch'vonian language fignifies 
 a river) and is the fooneft dried up : But the river Jejfer, which is formed cj-;,^ „-^,^ j^f. 
 by the conflux of eight fmall rivulets that run into the lake is never empty; fero. 
 its main fource is in a rock at the eaft end of the lake. This river is alfo 
 called Jefero, and, after direding its courfe the whole length of the lake, 
 lofes itfelf in two holes in a rock at the furface of the water. The 
 Imaller hole is called Mala Karlouza, ai-id the larger Vclka Karloiiza. 
 
 That branch of the river that flows into the latter, appears again not far j^^ ^^^,.r^ „„_ 
 from the place where it buries itfelf, on the fide of the hill X.owxxd^^ der ground. 
 St. Cantianiis ; and about half a quarter of a German mile farther lofes it- 
 felf a fecond time in a rock near St. Cantiamis, and continues its courfe 
 
 B b b 2 for
 
 372. CIRKNirZE R S E E. 
 
 foi- above a miifket-lhot among^ rocks and caverns, till it breaks our 
 again from the fide of the mountain. Here it only appears for two or 
 three furlongs, and hides itfelf a third time in a lofty wide cavern, where 
 the "Jejj'oro is divided into feveral fmall branches. This river cannot be 
 faid to influence the ebbing or flowing of the lake; the quantity of 
 Avater in the Jcffero, and the depth of it being always the fame. The 
 fonrce from which it runs into the Cirbtitzerfce mufi: contain a vail 
 quantity of fifh, as appears by the number and fize of thofe which this 
 river carries with it into the lake; but no pyerfon is permitted to firti in 
 it. The pools called Aw-/c and P/rtwx;^ are never quite dried up; but 
 are a kind of nurfery for the fpawn and young fry; and on tliis account 
 all perfons are prohibited from fifhing in thefe pits. 
 
 FijJjinthis An incredible number of pike, trout, tench, eels, carp, perch, (Sc. 
 
 kke. j^j.g caught in this lake. The cray-fi(h found in fome of the pools are 
 
 indeed very large, but lean and ill-tafted. Though every part of the 
 lake is fucceflively dried up, fo that no living creature is left in it except 
 the fpawn or young fry in Narte and Piiuize, and the fifli in the bottom 
 of the river '^cjj'cro ; yet, immediately on the return of the water, it 
 abounds in lifl:i as much as it did before. The fifhes that return with 
 the water are of a very large fize, particularly jacks weighing fifty or 
 fixty pounds. This is a manifefl: proof that the refervoir (which, as I 
 fliall prefently fliew, fupplies the lake with water) is well flocked with 
 fifli. 
 
 The neighbouring peafants would be much better pleafed if this lake 
 was not dried up fo often as it generally is ; for if thefe ebbings were to 
 happen but once in three or four years, they would leave a greater num- 
 ber of large fifhes in the pools or cavities than they ufually do. 
 
 The lake does not continue dry for any determinate fpace of time, 
 the water returning with great impetuofity after great rains, or even a 
 fudden ftorm attended with thunder. It mufl be obferved that the lake 
 flands higher than the country in general about Planma, which lies on 
 one fide of it, and is a low valley with feveral cavities in it. Hence we 
 may eafily judge, how the lake, by a continued drought, when no water 
 flows into it, may be gradually dried up, and become empty. But as the 
 other fide of it is furrounded with high mountains, in the cavities of which 
 great quantities of water muft be coUedled in heavy rains; by the preflure 
 of this, the water in the caverns under the vifible bottom of the lake 
 rifes according to the laws of hydrollatics, and fills the bed of the lakci 
 For that there are immenfe caverns, or rather another fubterraneous 
 lake, poffibly even larger than that on the furface of the earth, under 
 the Cirknitzcrjee, appears from the great quantity of water which runs 
 into the abyfs through the above-mentioned holes or cavities, and again 
 
 iffues.
 
 'vities. 
 
 C I RK N ITZ E RS E E. 273. 
 
 Hfties out into the lake througli the fame paflages. If wc farther fun- 
 
 pofe that there is a communication betwixt the caverns that lie one over 
 
 another, by a kind of natural fyphons, it may eafily be conceived, not 
 
 only how the water collecited in the cavities of the mountains operates 
 
 on the fubterraneous lake ; but alfo how the air being agitated and com- 
 
 prcfled by thunder-florms in tlie feveral fubterraneous caverns, may act 
 
 with great violence on the water, on the fame abyfs under the lake. 
 
 This hypothefis is further confirmed by the noifes heard in deep cavi- £^f<?o//^«;,. 
 
 ties of the earth ; particularly in the two caverns called Malabobnarza,''": j"''^'" ^''• 
 
 or the Little Drummer, and Vdkabobnarza, or the Great Drummer ; " 
 
 in which, when it thunders, a loud rumbling is heard like the beating 
 of a drum *. I could wifli that fome perfon of competent knowledge in 
 hydraulics would make an accurate refearch into the fubterraneous con- 
 duits that fupply this furprifing lake of Cirk?iitz. Mr, Sternberg of Idra, a 
 perfon of great fkill and experience in mechanics, indeed, allured me, that 
 he has made accurate enquiries into this phenomenon ; fo that he has formed 
 a fyfliem, which he flatters himfelf he fliall be able to explain by a ma- 
 chine that is to reprefent the ebbing and flowing of this lake. Not only 
 the fubterraneous fyphons, vortices, and refervoirs, will be plainly ex- 
 hibited by that machine, but it is alfo to Hiew how the lake fubfides j 
 and even how the air, when agitated by found (as for inftaace, that 
 of a drum) may in a lefs degree have the fame effed; in the model as the- 
 thunder has in the great lake, and contribute to the return of the water +. 
 But from the many avocations of this ingenious gentleman, and the 
 want of a fufficient fund to carry it on, I have little hopes of ever fee- 
 ing fuch a curious piece of mechanifm completed. 
 
 When it begins to rain hard, three of the cavities, viz. Koteny Natural ]ei%^ 
 'Jenjlenza, and TreJJetz fpout up water to the height of two or three '^'^^"• 
 fathoms. If the rain continues, and is accompanied with violent thunder- 
 claps, the water bubbles up out of all the holes through which it had 
 been abforbed, thofe called Velka' znd Malakarlauza excepted, and the 
 whole lake is again filled with water in twenty-four, and fometimes in 
 eighteen hours. Some of the holes or cavities only emit water, but 
 never abforb any ; others both emit and abforb during the ebb or flow 
 of the lake; neither do all the holes ejeft fifh, which poffibly may be 
 owing to the narrownefs oi the fyphons through which the water flows. 
 Sometimes even live ducks, with grafs and fmall fiflies in their flomachs, 
 
 * Thefe two cavities, with fome others, do not contain much fifl), and are not included 
 in the eighteen holes or cavities mentioned above. 
 
 t This is certain, that the beating of a drum near a calm fmooth piece of water occa- 
 fions on. the fuvface of it thofe undulations which are ufually c?.ufed by the wind or motion 
 t»f the air. 
 
 have
 
 374 CIRKNirZERSEE. 
 
 have emerged out of thefe cavities ; which is a manifefl proof that there 
 mud be a large lake under the Cirkiiitzerfec. The water in the latter 
 fometimes rifes on a fudden five or fix feet above the ufual height. 
 Remarkalh \\\ 2. rcck on One fide of the lake, but confiderably higher than its 
 /jolainarod. f^^^jT^^Q^ are two holes called Urajna jf^nima and Sekadulze. Thefe ca- 
 vities are at fonie difiance from each other; but the water gufiies out of 
 both with great noife and impetuofity when it thunders. If this happens 
 in autumn, they alfoejecfl a great many ducks, which are blind, but very 
 fat, and of a black colour ; and though they are almoft quite bare of fea- 
 thers at firfi;, in a fortnight's time, or before the end of October at fartheft, 
 they are entirely fledged, recover their fight, and fly away. Each of 
 thefe caves or holes in the rock is fix feet high, and of the fame breadth j 
 and when the water gufhes out of them, it is in a large column of 
 the fame dimenfions, and in a continual flream. There is a large paf- 
 fage in each of thefe caves, where a man may walk upright for a con- 
 fiderable way ; but I have not heard of any perfon whofe curiofity could 
 embolden him to venture into them, to fearch into the nature of the 
 inner caverns and refervoirs to which thefe apertures lead ; for there is 
 no certainty, but that in an inflant he may be furprifed by the water 
 rufiiing upon him with the force and rapidity of a fire-engine. 
 Hunting on the In fpring and autumn the Cirhiitzerjee is frequented by vaft flocks of 
 ''^^- wild-ducks ; but more efpecially in fpring, when they breed. Though 
 
 the peafants are not allowed to fhoot, yet they may purfue them in their 
 boats, and knock them down with the oars. One of my boat-men afiured 
 me, that he and his comrade, in one day, killed above thirty ducks in 
 that manner. At thofe feafons it is a common diverfion among the no- 
 bility to go to fhoot ducks on the lake. It is no uncommon thing here to 
 find a whole duck in the belly of a large jack. 
 
 In the thickets and forefts of the neighbouring mountains are found 
 great numbers of hares, foxes, wolves, and fome bears ; for his impe- 
 rial majefi;y, about two years fince, fhot a large one in Count Cobenzl's 
 lordlhip. 
 jjiands. There are three pleafant iflands in this lake, befides a kind of penin- 
 
 Nameandes- ful^. It is fomething more than a German mile in length, and about 
 tent of the half as broad. The natives call it Zerknijku Jeferu. The lafi: word, as 
 I have already obferved, fignifies a ftream, or piece of water ; and Zir- 
 kiiifa denotes a fmall church. Its greateft depth, exclufive of the ca- 
 vities or holes, is four fathoms, or four-and-twenty feet. Simbo gives 
 it the name of Liigea palus, either from the town of Lueg, which does 
 not lie far from it, or from its deep and cavernous bed. 
 
 Planina, June 5, 1730. / am^ &c. 
 
 LETTER
 
 JL JiJ Jl\. u^, "J 7 C 
 
 LETTER LXXIX. 
 Defcription of the Quickfilver Mines at Lira. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 IT was my defign to take the lliortcfi: road, which lies through -^Jo^'/'o Idra. 
 Lcidjch from Flanina to Lira, or Tdria, where I was defirous of 
 taking a view of the imperial quickfilver mines ; but I was obliged, 
 againft my will, to go by way of Upper-Laubach, which is about two 
 German miles from Flanina. This was partly o\n\x\o to my apprehen- 
 fions, that our company could not be furniflied with a fufficient number 
 of horfes at Loidfch, and partly to my ignorance of the Sclavonian lan- 
 guage; for we could not have found one perfon zi Loidfch, nor any of 
 the neighbouring villages, who underftood the German language, or 
 could give us thofe informations which we received at the poft-hcufe in 
 Upper-Laubach. The diftance from the latter to Lira is at leall five 
 hours journey on horfeback ; for the rough craggy road over the moun- 
 tains is impradicable for carriages. On the left-hand we faw thofe high 
 mountains, called ^^« Carnica, ox Jidic^e, which were covered \\\i\\ De/cripthn of 
 fnow. The town of Idra lies in a deep valley, and the fleep declivity by '^'^tl'^"- 
 which you defcend to it is very difficult, and fometirnes dangerous to ride. 
 The town confifts of about two hundred and feventy fcattered houfes- 
 and the number of inhabitants I fuppofe to be about two thoufand. 
 
 The quickfilver mines were firft difcovered* in the year 1497. '^t- Difccvcn of 
 fore that time this part of the country was inhabited only by a few ''■'' y^v-f^Wr 
 coopers, who made cafks and other wooden veflels, and likewife laths '""'"' 
 fliingles, &c. out of wood with which this country abounds. One of 
 thefe artificers, having, in the evening, placed a new tub under a dropping 
 fpring, in order to try whether his work was tight enough to hold water ; 
 when he came in the morning to take away the tub, found it fo heavy, 
 that he could hardly move it. At firil, according to the fuperfiitious 
 notions of ignorant and illiterate people, he began to fufpedl there was 
 fome witchcraft in the cafe ; but at laft, obferving a kind of fliinino- 
 fluid at the bottom of the tub, and not knowing what to make of it, he 
 immediately went to Laidmch, where he was advifed to ffiew it to an 
 apothecary. The latter, who was an artful man, and undcrfiocxl his 
 trade well, difmifi'ed the peafant v/ith a fmall gratuity, and told him to 
 bring fome more of the fame lluff whenever he could meet with it. 
 This thepoorcooperfrequentlydid.beinghighlyplcafed with his '^ood luck.
 
 37^ 
 
 being 
 ;2;<ufrldrizza.fmelting- furnaces,-'''^ 
 
 Canal. 
 
 Model of the 
 ivorh. 
 
 Depth, 
 
 Methods of 
 
 gouig 
 
 donxn 
 
 znto the mine 
 fill. 
 
 ^iclfilv&r Mi?ies in 1 D R A. 
 
 till at lad the affiiir was made public ; upon which feveral perfons formed 
 themfclves into a fociety in order to fearch farther, and to improve this 
 quickfilver mine, as it proved to be. It continued in the pofTeffion of 
 the adventurers till Charles duke of Anjlrin faw the i^reat importance and 
 value of fuch a work ; who, giving them a fum of money, as a compen- 
 fation for their charges, took it into his own hands. 
 
 All the adjacent country is very woody ; but, in order to prevent the 
 woods from being entirely deftroyed, great quantities of fuel for the 
 £?£-. are every year brought down the little river Idrizza 
 from the foreft of Schottcnbach, T'rachaiirch, and Bujcbeck, which lie 
 about a German mile and half from the mines. Befides this conveni- 
 ence of water-carriage, the fame little river produces plenty of fifli : 
 among thefe are fine trouts, weighing from fix to twelve pounds a piece, 
 which retain all the delicate tafte of that firti, though the bottom of the 
 river in which they bread is entirely a quickfilver ore. 
 
 Befides this river, here is a canal oi' half a German mile in length, which 
 is fupplied with water by feveral ftreams ilfuing from perennial fprings. 
 The defign of this is to put the machines belonging to the mines in mo- 
 tion. Several large ftreams, indeed, flow from the neighbouring moun- 
 tains ; but as thefe, for the moll: part, are dried up in fummer, there 
 was a necefl'ity of bringing from a great diftance a never-failing fupply 
 of water. M. Sternberg, the diredor of the works, and governor of the 
 town, lives in an old caftle adjoining to the latter. He has made for 
 his imperial maiefty a curious model, which reprefents in the mofl: ac- 
 curate manner both the plan and elevation of Idra, and its fubterraneous 
 works or mines ; in which all the pafTages, trenches, Ihafts, water- 
 courfes, entrances, and fpiracles, with the different kinds of ore found 
 in every mine, may be plainly difcerned. This admirable machine at 
 prefent flands in the emperor's library at Vieniia, and deferves the no- 
 tice of all lovers of the mechanic arts. 
 
 The two principal fliafts are thofe of St. Agatha and St, Barbara; and 
 it would take up feveral hours to go through all the fubterraneous paf- 
 fao-es. The greateft perpendicular height, computing from the entrance 
 of the fliaft, is a hundred and thirty fathoms * ; for as they advance ho- 
 rizontally under a high mountain, the depth would be much greater, 
 if it was meafured from the furface of the hill. One way of defcend- 
 ing into the fliafts is by letting one down in a bucket ; but this is Ibme- 
 thing dangerous : for as the entrance is narrow, the bucket is conlequently 
 liable to ftrlke againft the fides, or to be flopped by fomething in the way, 
 while the rope to which it is faftened is continually veering at the top > fo 
 
 5 
 
 * 840 feet. 
 
 that
 
 ^khfiker Mines at I D R A. 377 
 
 that It may be cafily overfet. The other way of going down is fafer, though 
 not without inconveniency ; and this is to deltend by a great number of 
 ladders placed obliquely in a kind of zig-zag ; but as the ladders are 
 wet and narrow, a perfon mufl be very cautious how he fleps, other- 
 wife he muft fall to the depth of feveral fathoms. 
 
 As you defcend, there are refting-places in fome parts, which are 
 very welcome to a fatigued traveller. The horizontal paflages are often 
 fo low, that a perfon cannot fland upright in them. The fides are fup- 
 ported by timber, and confequently are not fo fafe as thofc of the mines 
 at Schwatz, in Tirol., which are all lined with ftone. It is remarkable, 
 that in fome of thefe fubterraneous paffages, the heat is fo intenfe, as 
 to throw a man into a perfedl fweat; and formerly, in fome of the 
 fliafts the air was extremely confined, fo that feveral miners were from 
 time to time fuffocated by a kind of igneous vapour, which they call 
 the Damp ; but by finking the main lliaf: deeper, &c, this has been re- 
 medied. 
 
 Near the main fliaft is a large wheel, and an hydraulic machine, by 
 which all the water is raifcd out of the bottom of the minej and for this 
 end, there is what they call a prefs-ivork, at the diftance of every five 
 fathoms in depth, and all thefe are put in motion by the great wheel 
 at the top. As the inhabitants of all mine-towns have their flories oi Story of mini 
 mine-goblins, fo are they here flrongly pofTefled with a notion of fuch fi""'- 
 apparitions that haunt the mines ; though, of all the miners whom I 
 examined about it, not one could fay that he himfelf had feen any fuch 
 thing. It is faid that the miners oi Idra have formerly been fofuperilitious 
 as to fet fome provifions for the mine-fpirit every day, in order to ren- 
 der him propitious and favourable to them. It is added, that every 
 year they hung up a red fuit of cloaths in one of the paflages of the mine. 
 But this is carrying the joke too far, at leaft with regard to tlic prefent 
 miners. This little old man, with a great head (for that is the fhape he 
 generally afiljmes) is faid not to Ihew himfelf lb frequently fince an- 
 nual proceffions have been performed with the Plofi:, and the monks 
 have confecrated thofe places, where he ufed to be moft mifchievous, with 
 holy water and other ceremonies. However, they ftill believe that he 
 fometimes knocks when they are at work in the mines ; upon which 
 they immediately leave off^, having, as they pretend, often experienced, 
 that if they do not immediately lay by their tools out of refpedl to the 
 goblin, but continue to work in op})ofition to him, fome misfortune or 
 other never fails to happen to them for their prefumption. 
 
 Virgin mercury, or mincra mcrcurii, is that which is entirely prepared Minera Mer- 
 by nature, and is found in fome of the ores of thefe mines in a multi- '^'"''• 
 tude of little drops of pure q.uickfilver. Tliis is alfo to be met with in 
 
 Vol. III. C c c a kind
 
 378 
 
 Lucid banme- 
 ten. 
 
 Minera Ciii' 
 nabaris. 
 
 ^ickfther Mines at I D R A. 
 
 a kind of clay, and fometimes flows down the paflages or fifllires of 
 the mine in a fmall continued ftream, as the milk docs from the cow ; 
 fo that a man has been known to have gathered, in fix hours, above 
 fix-and-thirty pounds of virgin mercury. This bears a higher price 
 than common quickfilver, and is thought to be much better for ba- 
 rometers and chymical ufes, as it is lefs impregnated with bubbles of 
 air, and heterogeneous particles. It has been fliewn; by repeated ex- 
 periments, that if common quickfilver be put in a bottle well-flopped, 
 and fafl:ened to the fweep of a windmill, to be whirled round with it 
 for twenty-four hours, a kind of black duft appears in it ; and that when 
 this heterogeneous duft: is feparated from it, the remainder is found to 
 be much purer than before. 
 
 Virgin mercury is of great ufe for making the mElUucce mercuri- 
 aJes, or lucid barometers, which being fliaken in the dark, emit lu- 
 minous corrufcations. This efFe(5t is beft feen by fhaking the barome- 
 ter in a perpendicular diredlion. The light is alfo brighter in the fall 
 of the mercury than when it rifes again. However, this luminous ap- 
 pearance is not entirely owing to the mercury, but rather to the rare- 
 facftion of the air, to which the purity or the quickfilver indeed greatly 
 contributes. For that a clear light may be produced in a rarefied fub- 
 tile air, without quickfilver, may be demonflrated by feveral experi- 
 ments on the air-pump ; and alfo by thofe fmall glafs tubes, which, 
 after the air has been exhaufled by fire as much as poflible, are her- 
 metically fealed at both ends ; for thefe being rubbed in the dark with 
 leather, cloth, or the finger, efpecially if firft wetted with brandy, foon 
 becomes luminous. To the motion of fubtile rarefied air it is alfo ow- 
 ing, that light is produced by rubbing together two well-polifhed pieces 
 of glafs, diamond, cs'r. that are cut fo as to correfpond with each 
 other. 
 
 Virgin mercury may be known by the following curious experiment : 
 Let an amalgama be made of mercury and gold, and put it over the 
 fire to evaporate ; and if it be virgin mercury, it will carry off all the 
 gold along with it, which the common mercury will not do. 
 
 Foreigners of diftindlion are always prefented with a fmall quantity 
 of virgin mercury in a leathern purfe, for which the mine-ofiiceis have 
 the emperor's permiffion. 
 
 Minera cinnabarisM the ore from which quickfilver is extraded by the 
 force of fire ; and the heavier the cinnabar is, the more quickfilver it 
 yields. The beft: ore is not quite red, but has a tinge of blue j but be- 
 ing rubbed upon iron, marks it with red. Some of the lumps of ore 
 are fo rich, as to yield two-thirds of quickfilver, and only one of earth. 
 An experienced perfon would indeed imagine, that the ore in which the 
 3 virgin
 
 ^ichfilver M'mes at I D R A. 379 
 
 virgin quickfilver is found in drops, and the cinnabar, were more valu- 
 able than the mercury j but experience has fhewn it to be quite other- 
 wife. 
 
 There is alfo a c'mnaharii nativa^ or native cinnabar, found on quick- Cinnabarij 
 filver ore in very beautiful red grains, like little bloflbms. This is alfo faid 
 to be of great virtue in medicinal preparations; but it is feldom met with 
 in the Idrian mines. It is not fb fcarce in the mines o{ Hungary; but 
 even there it fells at a very high price. The common or faditioii'S cin- Making of 
 nabar is made of quickfilver iublimed with fulphur ; and the alteration ^'"""■^'^''' 
 caufed by two fuch ingredients of different colours has fomething very 
 furprifing in it. 
 
 The earth or clay, in which virgin quickfilver has been found, is laid Preparation of 
 apart, and waflied by itfelf ; but the cinnabar lumps of ore are .forted '-^^ """f- 
 in two claffes, which are called good and middling ore. The former 
 is beaten to pieces with hammers before it is put into the flamping- 
 mill, that there may not be too great a wafle. The lumps that adhere 
 to the good ore, but are not fo rich, are immediately put into the 
 ftamping-mill along with the middling fort, in order to reduce them to 
 fmall pieces. Thefe are afterwards waflied, and forted a fecond time 
 into good, middling, and bad earth. The firfl fort is referved for ufe ; 
 the fecond, or middling fort is again put into the ftamping-mill, and af- 
 terwards into the wafh-trough, where the parts that contain no cinna- 
 bar float in the water, are thrown among the bad earth, or refufc. 
 However, children and poor people pick fmall mineral pieces out of the 
 rubbifli, and fell them again to the emperor at the rate of nine guldens * a 
 hundred weight. It has alfo been found that due care was not ufed 
 formerly in wafhing the ore and every other part of the procefs, 
 fo that a great quantity of the good ore was thrown away ; on which 
 account the old wafte or refufe-houfes are undergoing another examina- 
 tion, at the emperor's charge, but at the fame time very much to his 
 advantage. In this__fearch the rain facilitates the diftinguifliing of the 
 good mineral ore from the mere flones. 
 
 Seven hundred faams, each faam being equal to three quintals, of 
 (lamped and vvaihed ore have been -laid up in the warehoufes at one 
 time. The feafon of walliing and fmelting is from the latter-end of 
 yipril to the middle oi November, during which time little of the ore is 
 dug up. But, in the mean time, new loads, or veins of ore, are fought 
 out, the ladders are repaired, the fides of the fliafts are ftrengthened, 
 and other preparations are made againll: v^^inter. For during that ('i^ion, 
 the works in the open air cannot be carried op, on account of the wea- 
 
 * A gnl.'kn is 2s. ^.d. {terling. 
 
 C c c 2 ther
 
 380 ^khf^lver Mines at 1 D R A. 
 
 ther and the cold ; and feveral hundreds of the miners return to their 
 fubterraneous labour of digging and hewing out the ore. 
 Wages of the Every common miner receives weekly, in money and provifion, about 
 *"""'■'■ a gulden and a half *. But the health of many of them is extremely im- 
 
 paired ; for they are afflidled with a nervous diforder, accompanied with 
 violent tremblings, fudden convuKive motions of the hands and legs, 
 and frightful diflortions of the face. 
 
 Thole miners are moft fubjedl to thefe diforders, who work in thofe 
 places where the virgin mercury is found ; on which account they are 
 relieved every fortnight, and employed in wafhing the ore in the open 
 hjiance hoiu gjp^ where they recover their health. The quickfilver infinuates itfelf 
 %'uaie''il/filf furprifingly into the body of many of thefe workmen ; fo that when 
 into ihehuman they go into a Warm bath, or are put into a profufe fweat by fleam, 
 '■^* drops of pure mercury has been known to iiTue through the pores from 
 
 all parts of their bodies. The fame pernicious effefts have alio been felt 
 by induflrious, hut imprudent goldfmiths, who cannot gild metals with- 
 out ufing quickfilver ; on which account it is the fafeft way always to 
 perform this work in the open air. Thofe who filver the looking- 
 glafles at Venice are alfo very fubjeft to paralytic diforders. On the other 
 hand, there are inftances of perfons labouring under the venereal diftem- 
 pers who have met with a happy cure by working in the quickfilver 
 mines. 
 
 The mines at Idra are often infefted with rats and mice, which feed 
 on the crumbs of bread, G?c. dropped by the miners at their meals. But 
 this plague feldom lafls long ; for even thefe vermin are feized with the 
 like convulfive diforders as the men are fubjedt to, which foon kills 
 them. It is by no means proper to go into the mines fafting; it being 
 a neceflary caution to eat a bit of fomething before a perfon defcends to 
 thefe fubterraneous regions. 
 Mitiutenefs of Somc miners at Idra are fo impregnated, if I may ufe the expreillon, 
 ^ividjhe" with quickfilver, that if they put a piece of copper money in their mouth, 
 or only rub it with their fingers, it immediately becomes as white as if 
 it had been done over with mercury itfelf. This penetrative fubtilty of 
 Mercury is the lefs to be wondered at; fince it appears from accurate ob- 
 fervatiohs, that a little globule of quickfilver, no bigger than a coriander- 
 feed, only by the prefTure of a finger and thumb, may be broken into 
 twenty-feven millions of fmall particles, which fliall all retain their ar- 
 gentine hvftre and globular form, as may be feen through a micro- 
 fcope 
 
 * About 3 J. b d. flerling. 
 
 I have
 
 ^ickfther Mines at I D R A. 381 
 
 I have already mentioned, that the feafon for fmelting the ore is from f-iii^'od of 
 the latter end oi April to the middle ofNovem/nr. But they do not workf'^f "•^ "''" 
 on Sundays, which are reckoned from St:ifiirdiij- noon to Sii/Jciay-noon, 
 at which time the work is re-aflumed. Thirty-five quintals of ore arc 
 daily fmeltcd, which yield about half that quantity, or at leaft fifteen 
 quintals of pure quickfilver. Hence we may judge of the great profits /''W^rr «/ 
 arifing from thefe mines. For the common mercury is fold for a hun- '''''" "''"**• 
 dred and fifty ^«/rti?wj />^r quintal *, and, when retailed, nt two guldens 
 the pound ; fo that when the number of workmen is complete, and the 
 vent large, the quantity of common mercury refined in a year, may be 
 computed, at leaft, to be two thoufand fix hundred quintals, and the 
 virgin mercury, which is gathered pure, about a hundred quintals. All 
 the expences of the works amount yearly to fixty-thoufand guildens. 
 
 The fmelting furnace lies about three or four furlongs from the town 5 Smelting fur. 
 and the fmoke of this furnace is fo deftrudlive to vegetation, that no "^"'^ 
 fruit-trees grow near it ; nor will the cattle touch the hay that is mowed 
 in the adjacent meadows. 'Tis true, the peafant who lives there breeds 
 calves ; but they are very much ftinted in their growth. The fmelters 
 are relieved every week ; fo that their turn comes round but once in a 
 year. I have already fliewn above, how the ore is beaten fmall and 
 "wafhed. The procefs of burning or fmelting is performed as follows : 
 'The ore is mixed with an equal quantity of quick-lime, and this mix- 
 ture, which is called fcklich, is put into iron retorts. Thefe retorts are 
 placed obliquely in the fmeltina; furnace, and flopped clofe with mofs, 
 fo that nothing may fall out. When the force of the fire has fmelted 
 the ore, and burnt the moi's-floppers, the quickfilver runs into receivers 
 which are placed underneath, and clofely luted to the iron retorts. If 
 there be the leaft hole Icfr, it muft be flopped with lute, otherwife the 
 quickfilver will evaporate to the top of the room. Formerly this luting 
 ufed to be performed with the naked hand, by which method a great 
 deal of the quickfilver evaporated in fume, becaufe the artificer did not 
 do it effeftually, being afraid of burning his hands by the red-hot iron 
 retort. But the prefent direftor has introduced a new method of put- 
 ing on the lute with fmall pieces of linen, which is done without run- 
 ning any danger of being burnt by the retort.. As»a great quantity of 
 quickfilver mixes with the lute ; it is again reduced, after it is burnt, to 
 a foft wet pafte, then waflied, and, with the old earthen receivers (which 
 are ftamped to pieces) is burnt •&.% fchlich. 
 
 * About 17/. 10 f. feeding, a ^«A/t'« being ^s. i^d. 
 
 It
 
 382 ^ickfther Mines at I D R A. 
 
 It is not without reafoii, that the reader is furprifed to find it ailerted 
 in chap. vii. p. 209. of tlic German tranllation of Brown's travels, that 
 fixteen thouftnd retorts are conftantly ufed here : But this monftrous ex- 
 aggeration is an overfight of the tranflator, or correftor ; for Mr. Brown, 
 in the original, mentions only fixteen hundred; and at prefent, indeed, 
 they come fliort of that number. All the furnaces are of a new inven- 
 tion, and amount only to ten or eleven, and in every furnace are placed 
 from fixty to ninety retorts. One of the old faOiion furnaces, which con- 
 fumed a great deal more fuel, is left {landing, but never ufed. The old, 
 or damaged iron retorts, are a perquifite of the diredlor of the works, whoj 
 in order to turn them to the beft account, has built a forge at his own 
 expence, not far from the mine-works. The ufe of fmaller retorts would, 
 indeed, diminifli this perquifite ; but then the expences in fuel and artifi- 
 cers would be the fame, though a lefs quantity of quickfilver would be 
 refined. The fires are generally lighted at five o'clock in the morning, and 
 continue burning till nocn, or fometimes an hour or two later; fo that 
 the iron retorts at length become red-hot, and as tranfparent as ignited 
 glafs. After the burning, or fmelting, befides the pure quickfilver, a 
 large quantity of black alhes are found in the earthern receivers, which 
 are put into a trough placed obliquely ; where water being poured on 
 them, and the adies being continually ftirred, a great deal of quick- 
 filver is feparated from them ; for this metal feems, as it were, to de- 
 Separation of \\g\][ Jn humidity. In the fame manner the mercury is feparated from 
 'by nvater.'^'" the Jcoria to which it adhered ; and the Vv'afhing is repeated, whilft any 
 of the quickfilver is obferved to run off. However, what remains after 
 this procefs, is known ftill to contain fome fmall quantity of mercury ; 
 and therefore undergoes a fecond burning v/ith the fchlich. As for the 
 Caput moi-tinim, remaining in the iron retorts, it is thrown away as ufe- 
 lefs. From the fympathy betwixt mercury and humidity, we may de- 
 rive the flrong inclination of the Idra miners to liquor ; unlefs, perhaps, 
 it may be faid, that this is a propenfity common to all other miners. 
 It is alfo to be fufpeded, that the tremors which thefe miners are fub- 
 je(5l to, may be, in a great meafure, owing to their intemperance. 
 
 The mine that is carried towards the fouth affords the mofl cinnabar, 
 or ore: But the virgin mercury, or pure quickfiver, is moftly found in 
 that which lies towards the wefl, and where thefirfl difcovery was made 
 by the cooper, as mentioned above. 
 Spanifh qiiuk- The Spaniards alfo have large and rich quickfilver mines at Almaden^ 
 rd-vsrmines. j^^ ^j^^ provincc of La Mdnchu, which borders on E/Ircniadiira, and the 
 niountains called Sierra Morcna. Thefe mines feem to have been known 
 even fo early as the time of PIim\ who, in //^. xx^iii. c. 7. fays, ' That 
 
 ' the
 
 ^kkjiiver Mmes at I D R A. 383 
 
 ' the Rowans were fo choice of tlieir Cinnabai-, or Minium, which they tj* e/"'-'-'^ »''^ 
 
 * imported only ex SiJ'apo?ienJi regionc in Bcetica, that the preparation of ^^^J";^^^,'^^^'^ 
 
 * it was not permitted to be performed in any other place but at Rome ; 
 ' and for that purpofe ten thoufand pounds weight of this ore were an- 
 
 * nually brought, iecured under feals, into that capital.' According to 
 VitruviiiSy lib. vii. c. 9. the edifice where the Minium was prepared, 
 ftood betwixt the temples of Flora and ^drinus. Befides the great de- 
 mand of it for dying, &c. great quantities of this Minium, or Vermilion, 
 were ufed for painting human faces, and the images of the gods *'. For 
 it appears from the above-cited chapter of Pliny, as alfo from Pauja- 
 nias, in Achaicis, that on feftivals the face of yupiter's (latues was painted 
 with Minium. The following line in Ovid's I'ri/l. lib. i. Hiews it to 
 have been alfo ufed for embellilhing the titles of books. 
 
 Nee titulus minio, nee cedro charta mtetiir. 
 
 ' Let not the title be decorated with Minium, nor the paper be an- 
 ' ointed with the oil of cedar.' 
 
 The capital letters were likewife written with Minium by the anci- 
 ents ; and Dwz. [lib.xl.) fays, that the emperors figned their names 
 
 * The Greeks and Romans had adopted this cuflom from other nations. PUn. h'lft. naf^ 
 lib. xxxni. e. 7. y^jis ipftus fiiniilacri facicm diehiis ftjlis m'mio illhi'i foUtam, triumphantumque 
 corpora. Hodie id e.tpcti conjiat JEthiapiun popidh, totofque eo t'mgi procercs, huncque ibi dcorum 
 Jirnulacr'is cohrem ejje. ' The face of the image oi Jupiter, ufed on holidays to be daubed 
 ' over with vermihon ; and jilcewife the bodies of heroes on the day of their triumph. It 
 ' is known to be the prefcnt cuflom of the /Ethiopians, to paint all their princes and great 
 ' men with jMiniurn ; and that the images of their gods arc always painted with it.' Con- 
 cerning the Greeks, Paiifiviius-Ss,ys, lib. \\\. c. 26. Liber paler i i'gno, einnabari olliius. ' They 
 ' bedaubed a wooden ftatue of Bacchus with cinnabar'. And lib. viii. e. 39. Libera etiam 
 patri templum ercSium eji. Signi partes inferiores confpici nequeu^t, quod hcdera isf lawi cienfa 
 fronde velaniur., qua: in ccnfpcSiu funt einnabari oblita ilhmiinantur. ' A temple was alfo built 
 ' to Bacchus. The lower parts of the ftatue were concealed, being covered with ivy and 
 
 * laurel ; and thofe that were in fight were painted v»ith cinnabar.' Jlex. ah Alex, genial 
 dier. lib. iv. c. 11. Nee prat enundum, quod /Ethiopibus in i:fum vcnit, ut dcorum Jmmlacra mi- ~ 
 nio iUimrcnt, ilia pro majejlate nundmim fanciioria 13 augtijliora arbitrati. ' Nor muft I 
 
 ' omit the cuflom of the /Ethiopians of daubing the images of their idols \\'\l\\ Aliniuin, 
 ' from a notion that it made their gods appear more auguft and venerable.' And in 
 lib. vi. c. 6. Ipje vera triumphans, cui iaittus honos dabatur, curru aurato fiddimis, atque ornatu 
 humano augujlior^ qui ut conjpelytior videretur, rninio illini Jolebat, excmplo AJJyriorum iff Medo- 
 rum, apud quos inungi ocuhs, is facieni pingi ex Cyri injiituto adfuetum ejh ' The perfon ho- 
 ' noured with a triumph, was feated on a high golden chariot, fuperbly adorned ; and, 
 ' that he might be more auguil, and fupcrior to other men, his body was painted with 
 
 * Minium, after the manner of the Jffyrians and Medes, who, by a law of Cyrus the Great, 
 ' ufed to anoint their eyes and paint tlieir faces.' 
 
 with
 
 384 ^kkfiken Mines' at I D R A. 
 
 with it. Caligula, from a filly afFedlation of magnificence, caufed the area 
 of the amphitheatre to be ftrewed with Cbryfocolla, or Borax, inftead of 
 fand ; but his folly was outdone by Ncro^ who ordered pulverifed cin- 
 nabar to be mixed with Chr folia for that purpofe -f-. 
 ^ckfiher The above-mentioned Spanijh mines yields but little virgin mercury. 
 
 }ntr.mn?txa. -pj^^ Spaniards have alfo a quickfiiver mine at GiumcaveVca in Peru, and 
 l^f waat «/// which was not unknown to \\\t Indians \ But they only made ufe of 
 ^j//^^ Indians. j.j^g red orc, which they call Climpi, for daubing their faces by way of 
 ornament. The Spa^iiards themfelves were unacquainted with the great 
 importance of this mine till the year 1567, when z Portuguefe On&yNtA 
 them, by trying the experiment, that quickfiiver was to be extrafteti 
 from it. 
 Decreafe of the Tliough the territories belonging ^o Spain yield a great deal of quick- 
 qukkfil'ver filver, yet confiderable quantities were formerly imported thither from 
 Spai^n.'^' the imperial hereditary dominions ; that being much better than their 
 own : befides, the latter was not fufficient to anfwer the great demands 
 they had for it. But as the American mines no longer yield fo much 
 gold (which cannot be feparated and prepared without this metal) as 
 they did formerly, the quickfiiver trade is very m.uch decreafed ; and 
 the Spaniards pretty nearly fupply all their wants with quickfiiver out of 
 their own mines. 
 
 Qiiickfilver formerly was alfo prepared near Kunigeftein m Franconia. 
 Other qiihk- About thirty years ago a mine of cinnabar, or quickfiiver ore, was dif- 
 fiiermines. covered at St. Lo, in Normandy; but it was foon overflowed by an al- 
 moft incxhauftible ftream of water. We may, however, fuppofe that 
 it was not very rich ; for if it had yielded a great deal of mercury, that 
 induftrious and polite nation would have found fome means or other to 
 drain off the water. 
 
 Stria alfo affords quickfiiver mines; but they are not worked at pre- 
 fent ; and thofe in Hungary are far from being improved as far as they 
 might be. It is affirmed, that cinnabar or quickfiiver ore is alfo found 
 in ILjfe-Homburg, and in the Palatinate, namely, at Muchelandsberg, 
 which lies about three leagues from Crcut-zenach, towards Donnersberg ; 
 and that even virgin mercury has been difcovered there. Thefe, in time, 
 
 t Tlie author miftakes one emperor for another : For Suetonius {lib. iv. c. 18.) fays, Edi/iit 
 [Caligula] ludos cirxenfes plurimos a mane iffqiie ad vcfpcram, interjcBa modo Afruanaruin bejii- 
 ormii vcnattone, modo "Troja deairfione : quoJdatnMutem pracipuos, rniuio i^ chiyfocslla cmjiruto c'rcc. 
 ' He \Cdlgula'\ likewife exhibited a great many Circcnjhn games, which laftcd from morii- 
 * ing till evening, and were diverfified with the hunting oi Jfiican beads, or the Trojan tour- 
 ' nament ; and in fome of thefe more extraordinary diverfions, the Circus was ftrewed 
 . ' with vermilion and Borax ;' but the hiftorian does not fay a word oi Nero's ftrewing the 
 Circus with Mir.ium ; for he was rather fparing in thofe expenccs, as Suetonius informs lis, 
 j/7 J^it. Keren, c. xxxiv. Concerning the difference betwixt Mirii.um and cinnaoar, See Plin. 
 Jib. xxxiii. r. 7. Diojcorid. lib. v. c. 69. and Falentini'i hijh fimplic. reform, p. 59. 
 
 may
 
 ^Ickfihc?' Mines at I D R A. 3 5 
 
 may hurt the imperial trade in this commodity. And, indeed, it is cer- 
 tain, that within thefe few years it is fo declined, that feveral tons of 
 mercury remain in the caftle of Lira for want of a purchafer ; and on 
 this account the works are not carried on with that vigour as they ought 
 to be, in the quickfilver mines. Hitherto the Dutch have taken off great 
 quantities of quickfilver for exportation ; but this was by way of pay- 
 ment for the capital and intereft due to them from the court oi Vienna. 
 They have alfo this farther advantage, that no more has been dedudted 
 from the debt,and confequendy paid for, than what theDutcb have adually 
 difpofedof : the remainder, whilft unfold, being looked upon as the em- 
 peror's property (and a confiderable quantity ftill lies on his hands) who is 
 obliged to run the rifque of trade, &c. It feems the emperor promifed 
 that the quickfilver ftiould be fold to them only, exclufive of all others : 
 at laft, however, the imperial chamber was not pleafed with thefe 
 articles, which were looked upon as diladvantageous, and hoped to turn 
 the quickfilver to a much better account by being its own fadtor. This 
 is now done at Idra both wholefale and retail ; but it does not turn out 
 according to their expedlations. The quickfilver is put into large lea- 
 ther bags, each of them weighing a hundred and twenty pounds ; and 
 two fuch bags are put up in a cafl<, which is worth four hundred and 
 fifty Rhetiijh guilders. There is a confiderable demand for quickfilver 
 at Venice, where it is u(ed in filvering looking-glafi^es, and fome of it is 
 fent to Rome and Naples. The leather for keeping mercury mull be 
 worked white, and of that kind which is ufed by belt-makers. At 
 my return I fliall have the pleafure of gratifying your tafte for chymical 
 experiments with fome extraordinary fpecimens of quickfilver of fuch a 
 fixidity, that it has already flood the cuppel three times. 
 
 I conclude with obferving, that if mercury, as the alchymifts afi"ert, 
 be the principle of all metals, how comes it to pafs, that, in the quick- 
 filver mines, fcarce any other metals are to be found ? 
 
 Upper-Laiibach, June 8, 1730, / am, &c. 
 
 Vol. III. D d d INDEX.
 
 I 
 
 N 
 
 E 
 
 X 
 
 TO THE 
 
 THIRD VOLUME. 
 
 Ac J D EMU cofmographica degli Ar- 
 gonauti, p. 312. 
 Academy^ 154, feq^. 
 Abano^ account of, 239. 
 Ahftinence^ remarkable, 345. 
 Abyffes, 372. 
 
 AdIJberg, furprifing cave, 367. 
 Adriatic-fca, its teftaceous filh, 49," 
 Adriatic, ebb and flood in, ^■^. 
 Aibetif its cave, 368. 
 Aldrovandi muiicwm, account of, g4.,feq. 
 Alexander III. pope, his bounty to the phice 
 
 of his refidence, 306. — Treads on the 
 
 emperor's neck, ibid. 
 Allegory, political, 337. 
 Aloifio Mocenigo, his fuperb monument, 330. 
 Amber, origin of, 145, feq. 
 American mines, their decreafe, 384. 
 Ammiraglio del Arfenale at Venice, 289. 
 Amphitheatre, a celebrated one at Verona, 181. 
 
 — Account of, ibid.fcq. n. 
 Amfierdam, conftitution of the foil at, 144. 
 Ancient bufto and infcription, 293. 
 Ancona, 47, Jcg. beauty of its inhabitants 
 
 accounted for, 49. 
 Antenor, fuppofed grave, 220. 
 Antejiorh Patavitm, 221. 
 Ants, annunl miracle of, 112. 
 Aponi, ftone image of^ — jProceedings of the 
 
 inquifiiion agamft, 225. 
 
 Aqifikia, remains of, 354. 
 
 Arco, condemnation of count, 1 29. 
 
 Aretins, his monument, 333. 
 
 Ariojlo, his faying of Areiine, ibid. 
 
 Arfenal, 95, 279. 
 
 • the great one at Venice, 284, fep 
 
 — Its yearly charge, 289. 
 Artichokes, huge ones, 22. 
 Afs, reliques of one, i88. — Refledions on, 
 
 1 89. —Why no longer fliewn ^i Verona^ 
 
 190. 
 JJJi/h 21. 
 
 B. 
 
 TyAlleni, ftrange manner of their breed- 
 
 ■L> ing, 49. 
 
 Bajj'ano, his fine picture, 341. 
 
 Bembo, monument of, 209. — Epitaph, 210. 
 — Some account of, ibid. 
 
 Bencdiffine monks, their fine convent, 320. 
 
 nuns, their gaiety, 333, 
 
 Bentivoglio palace, 96. 
 
 Blindnefs common at Bologna, 87. 
 
 Bologna, city of, 85. 
 
 dogs, 86. 
 
 I — cervelas, 87. 
 
 Bomb concealed in wax-candle, 45. 
 
 Bonfiglioli palace, 95. 
 
 BragadeKi'si[il\n, 326. — His barbarous treat- 
 ment, 326. 
 
 Brainier, his epitaph, 317. 
 
 Erafs horfes of exquifue vvorkmanfhip, 336. 
 
 Bridge,
 
 I N D E X. 
 
 Bridge, ancient one, built by /lu^ujlus over 
 the Nera, 6. 
 
 . accident at, 136. 
 
 remarkable, 176. 
 
 bridges at Venice., 2r^s- 
 
 Brcglio, whence derived, 280. 
 
 .„ hence hrcgliare, brouiller, iriguc^ ib. 
 
 Buccari, account of it and its great trade, 
 
 364- 
 Bucentaur, defcription of, 267. 
 Bucket, remarkable trophy of one, 137. 
 Butterfies, birds, i^c. how preferved, ii6. 
 
 C Abinets 0^ cuno^mts, 295. 
 Caligula, his filly magnificence, 384. 
 Calvi, remarkable chalky bottom near, 4. 
 Campeggi palace, 95, feq. 
 Capella del Rofario, how guarded, 107. 
 Caprara palace, c,6. — Family, ibid. 
 Carnaval diverfions at Venice, 258, feq. 
 Cafafanta, miracles concerning, z^,feq. 
 Cfl#«i's meridian line, 116, feq. 
 CataraSf, remarkable, 13. 
 Catharine de Vigri, undecayed body of, 
 
 103, feq. 
 Catharina, queen of Cyprus, 305. 
 Cattle, white, 20. 
 Cecilia, admirable picture of St. 1 10. — Cen- 
 
 iured, ibid. 
 Cenfure of Are tine, 33 ^.n. 
 Certificates of health, 354. 
 Chances fold, 370. 
 Chaplains, great numbers of them at the 
 
 Cafa Santa, 35. 
 Charles V's behaviour towards the Pope, 
 
 90, 91. 
 Chafm emitting fire, 147. 
 Chejler, monumenc dug up at, 295. 
 Cicero, old edition of, 121. 
 Cigogna, doge, his epitaph, 31 8. 
 Cinnaberis, native, 379. 
 Cirknitz lake, particularly defcribed, 369. 
 Cittadini at Venice, who, 275. 
 
 CJilumnus, temple of, 17. n. 
 
 Clock, a curious one, 281. 
 
 Coat of arms, ridiculous, 328, 
 
 Ccllegium Illyricum, 45. 
 
 Colonade, remarkable, 113. 
 
 Compofcrs ol mufic, 264. 
 
 Contarcni, honour done to that family, 350. 
 
 Copernicus' i, fyitem, where firft adoptetl, 
 
 124. n. 
 Copper coins, liberal offerings of, 302. — 
 
 To what ufe the Remans put them, n. 
 Corfu, importance of that ifland, 296. 
 Cornulo, illuftrious, 61, feq. 
 Corregio's night-piece. 139, feq. 
 Coronelli's, father, account of, 312. 
 Courtizan founds a chapel, 345. 
 Croats, their vigour and chearfulnefs, 365. 
 Cremona, account of, 1 64. 
 Crucifix, a natural one in marble, 324. 
 Crucifix, miraculous, 3S<^. 
 Cryftal, extraordinary large piece of, 153. 
 Cupola, admirably painted by Corregio, 155, 
 
 Curta Cafiellana village, account of, 3. 
 Cypr^ planted hy St. Dominic, 108. 
 
 D 
 
 D, 
 
 fff/6' the poet, tomb of, 77, yS, firj. 
 life of, 8 1 . 
 
 Dardanelles, fight near it, 327. 
 
 D' Argenfon, count, his pomjious epitaph, 
 
 320. 
 Dijtich, 114, 174, 191, 200. n. 
 
 from Ovid, 201. 
 
 ■ • from Juvenal, 213. 
 
 on Albert us Magnus, 214. 
 
 Diftich, 22S, 230, 231, 245, 246, 307, 
 
 feq. 312. 
 Diftiches, two flattering ones to the king of 
 
 France, ibid. 
 Doge, his marriage with the fea, 265. 
 — — its origin, 266. 
 Doge of Venice, his power, 269. 
 — — eledion of, how performed, 2yo,feq. 
 D d d 2 Doers,
 
 I /N -iD 
 
 Bsors, remarkahly fine,' 3^6. ^ ^ "' '■'^'\ 
 
 Drejs, regulation of, at Venice, 274. 
 Drum beating, eiiedt of, 273- 
 
 ?:. 
 
 EBB ant! flow, flrange, 369. 
 Ecclefiaftieo.l inquifition at Venice., 273. 
 
 . — Liberty allowed to Proteflants, ihid. 
 Egyptian yx^ix, 339. 
 Encounters of factions at Venice, 346. 
 EngUflj., their liberality to foreign fingers, 
 
 263. 
 Epigram, 245. 
 Epitaph, 80. 
 
 enigmatical one, 99. 
 
 explanations of, 100. 
 
 Epitaph, 105, fe(i. 108, 
 
 109, 
 
 n. feq. 
 119, 
 
 170, 
 
 171, 173, ib5. 
 
 -^ on Vejling, 203. 
 
 . by Ferrari, 206, 207. 
 
 on Ferrari, 208,209,215,217,247. 
 
 — ».-~— elegant, il>id. 248, 249, 304, 306, 
 
 30?' 309' 311. 317' 318, 319- 
 
 on Bra-mier, 317, 326, 341, 349, 
 
 350- 
 F.ftber, manufcript of, 120. 
 Etymology of Bucen/oro, 267. — Sculpture 
 
 on, /i'zV/. 
 Euganei, 222. 
 
 Eugene, brave attempt of, prince, 165. 
 Eunuch, ccclefiaftical device of theirs, '^6. 
 Expenfive church, 342. 
 
 FAUe of the Pope's treading on Frederick 
 the firft's neck, 266. n. 
 F^enza, its fine earthen veflels, 84. 
 F'^mous fingers at Venice, 262. 
 Farinelli, account of, 261, 264.?;. 
 Fatdt \n an admirable pidure, 322. 
 Female fmger, epitaph on, 172. 
 Female fingers, 264. 
 Ferrari Ottavia, epitaph by, 203, 
 
 ' epitaphs by, 206, 207. 
 
 Ferrari's tomb and epkaph, 208. 
 
 -^E "X. 
 
 Ferrari, infcrfptions by, 231, ' 
 
 Fight betwixt the Cajtellani and Nicoloti, 
 
 268. 
 Figs, extraordinary, 56. 
 Fini, remarkable verfes by, 204. 
 Fijh, teilaceous, 49, feq^. 
 
 lift of, at Venice, 258. 
 
 Fiume, contefh between it and Triejle, 355. 
 
 fertility of its Ibil, 358. 
 
 Flattery, ridiculous to the king of France, 
 
 312. 
 Forbis, lord, his generofity, 3G5. 
 Fortune-tellers at the carnaval, 259. 
 Fountain^ noble one, ^^. 
 Fozi-ls fed with vipers, 237. 
 Francia, a famous painter, caufe of his 
 
 death what, in. 
 Francifcan church remarkable, 204. 
 Frederick I. holds the Pope's ftirrup, 91. 
 ■ his low fubmifiion to the Pope, 
 
 306. 
 Frangepani, count, his coat of arms, 361. 
 Frep fprings originated from rain and dew, 
 
 359- 
 Front, fuperb, of a church, 344. 
 
 GAIlery, faid to be an Italian mile in 
 length, 301. 
 Gallipots, valuable, 44. 
 Gajlon de Foix, his viftory and death, 
 
 81, /f?. 
 Gazzetta and Zecca, origin of, 284. 
 Gazzuolo, his arms, 194. 
 German ftudents, particular privileges of, 
 
 at Bologna, 123. 
 German mzg7L-L\nt ^x. Venice, 292. 
 Glafs, its price at Paris, 300. 
 Glow zvorm, or Luciola, account of, 135. 
 Goats, extraordinary leap of, 3. 
 Gaidala's Hi Venice, 255. 
 Gr^W monument, 330. 
 Grapes, remarkable ones, 7. 
 
 m.ethod of preferving ripe ones, 135. 
 
 Gregory VII. account of, pope, 149. 
 Grotto, account of, 102. 
 
 Guelphs
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Gudphs and GihellineSy origin of, 159. «. 
 Gtiidot a mailer-piece by, 103. 
 
 H. 
 
 HALLS at Venice^ 348. 
 Harlequins an impropriety in a chyrch, 
 
 186. 
 Heiderfdorfy general, fentence pafled on, 
 
 129. n. 
 Henci king of Sardinia, account of, 93. 
 — — epitaph on, 105, feq. 
 Henry IV's fevere treatment by the Pope, 
 
 149. ». 
 Henry VII. king of England, 340. 
 High^rttX., fine one, 162, 
 Hiftorian, particular quaUfications of, 189, 
 
 190. 
 Horatio Farnefe, his monument, ■^ij. 
 Horfe, a large wooden one, 236. 
 Hofpitals in Venice, 329. 
 Hojl carried without proceflion at Venice, 
 
 274. 
 
 I. 
 
 IDOLS befmeared with vermillion, 383. 
 Idra, difcovcry of quickfilvcr mines 
 
 there, 383. n. 
 Jealoufy betwixt Francifcans and Domicans, 
 
 io8. 
 — betwixt Faujiina and Cuzzoni, 262. 
 
 — Why left England, ibid. feq. 
 Jefuits chnxc\\, fine one, 317. 
 Jet d'eau, natural, 373. 
 Jewellers, trade with convents, 42. 
 Indulgence, perpetual, 306. 
 Inhabitants of Tricjie, their ill qualities, 
 
 355- 
 Innocence oi nz^eAwtk, 371. 
 
 Infcription on a bridge, 2. 
 
 on a large fquare flone, ibid. 
 
 on a bridge, 4. 
 
 on a pofthoufe, 5. 
 
 on a clock, 7. 
 
 on a pyramid, 8. 
 
 Infcription, ancient one, 9. 
 
 in a cathedral, ibiJ. 
 
 ■ over the Spoletto gate, ibid. 
 
 Infcription 15, 31, 47, 48, c^^, 57, 
 e-j, Gcj. 
 
 — - remarkable, 81. 
 
 %> 
 
 Infcription 89. 
 
 about a peftilence, 92. 
 
 Infcription 98. 
 
 under an asnigma, 100. 
 
 —- aenigmatical, loi. 
 
 ' inexplicable, 108. 
 
 Infcription 112,115, ' ' 7^ 1 1 8> 1 1 9» 123, 
 125, 126, 
 
 martial one, 136. 
 
 Infcription 152, 154, 157, feq. 161, 163, 
 
 166. 
 ' ancient, a colieiflion of, 178. 
 
 Infcription 187, 193, 197, 199, 201, 205, 
 209, 212, 216, 218. 
 
 obfcure, 220. 
 
 Infcription 221. 223, feq. 224, 225. 
 
 under Livy'% bufto, 22. 
 
 Infcription 229, 231, feq. 234, 235, 236, 
 238. 
 
 • a Greek one, 239. 
 
 over Petrarch's pifture, ibid. — Lau- 
 ra's pifture, 240. 
 
 i ancient, ibid. 
 
 — — - ingenious, 241. 
 
 on Petrarch's monument, 243, «.y^^. 
 
 Infcription 244. — On a fountain, 245. 
 Infcription 246, 276, 277, 282, 285, 286. 
 
 — on a medal, 290. 
 
 famous one, 291. 
 
 ■ ancient, 293. — Explained from 
 
 Gruter, 293, feq. n. 
 — — — — on a ftone, 294. 
 ' dug up at Chefler, 295. 
 
 ■ on count Schulemburg's ftatue, 297. 
 
 — — — ingenious addition to. Hid. 
 — — — on a medal to count Schulemhurg, 
 
 298. feq. 
 Infcriptions, 305, ibid. 310, 311, 313, 314, 
 ibid. 3 1 5^ 316, 317, 318, 319, 320, ibid. 
 321, ibid. 322, 323, 325. 
 Infcription on Bragadoii, 326, 327^ 
 
 Infcriptions,
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Lifiriptions, 330, 331, 340. 
 
 InJlruSlion fo r tra vc 1 1 i n g, 353, 356. 
 
 IriJI.\ bravery of, 165. 
 
 Italian nobility, particular humour of, 97. 
 
 Italian princes, high pretenfions of, 142. 
 
 — Pretended right of non-appeal, ibid. 
 Italians, their commendation of a painting, 
 
 322. 
 
 K 
 
 K. 
 
 Onigfmark, the monument of, count, 
 86. 
 
 L. 
 
 LAcus Velini, ancient, 10. 
 Lady, learned, her epitaph, 311. 
 Lamps, legacies left for lighting, 30. 
 Z,<7/7>z bible, account in, 121. 
 Laura, Vctrarclo'i miftrefs, who, i\l,feq^. 
 
 . grave and epitaph, 247. 
 
 epitaphs, 249. n. 
 
 ■ grave opened by Francis I. 248-- -A 
 
 monument and epitaph by him, 248. 
 
 -— Verfes found in a leaden box, ibid. 
 Lawyers, how in all ages treated, 194. «. 
 Lazaretto, 358. 
 
 Learned hdks, account of, 212. «. 
 Learned men, their acrimony, 335. 
 Leather money, 323. 
 Leeches, odd way of getting rid of them. 
 
 Legate'^ palace, 89. 
 
 Leo X. fome account of, 94. n. 
 
 Levant company, indulgences to it, 359. 
 
 Library, account of, 114. 
 
 Library, 151, feq^. 
 
 at Venice, 282. 
 
 at Venice, 321. 
 
 exquifitely painted, 348. 
 
 Liren paper, when invented, 339. n. 
 
 Lift of all the moil valuable offerings at 
 
 Loretto, 38. 
 Live fhell-fiih inclofed in marble, 0,^6. 
 Livfs remains, 227 — Place of nativity, 
 
 ibid. 
 
 Loadftones, remarkable, 125. 
 
 Longevity at Venice, 344. 
 
 Loretto, 23, feq. 
 
 Loretto, trade of its inhabitants, 46. — En- 
 tertainment at, ibjd. — Globular flone 
 there, 47. 
 
 Lucid barometers, 378. 
 
 Lucretia, contrail betwixt her and Sufanna, 
 230. n. 
 
 Luther's proftration before popeL^^X.94. n. 
 
 pulpit, 222. 
 
 M. 
 
 MAchine, admirable, 376. 
 Maffei, his fyftem of the origin of 
 lightning, 179. 
 Mattel, monument of, ibid. 
 Magnani palace, 97. 
 Malpighi, infcription on the monument of, 
 
 122. 
 Mamertini, firft painter in oil colours, 
 
 329- 
 
 Mantegna, whether fhe inventor of copper- 
 plates, 170. 
 
 Mantua, account of, 166, feq. — Its ferti- 
 lity, ibid. 
 
 Mmiufcripts, 120, feq. 
 
 of the Old Teflament by Ezra, 
 
 105. 
 
 of the Old Teflament, n. 
 
 Alargaret of Auftria, account of, 163, y?y. 
 
 Margaritini, procefs of making them, 301, 
 
 Marble cafe of the holy houfe, when built, 
 
 30- 
 Maria Egyptiaca, body of, 166. 
 Martial, verfes of, concerning a bridge, 6. ' 
 Marftgli's new academy, 123, f'q. n. 
 — fentence pafled on, 129. — Vin<)ica« 
 
 tion of himfelf, ibid. 
 Marfigli, fome account of, 127, feq. — 
 
 Made an indifferent figure as a military 
 
 man, 129. 
 Mary, miraculous image of, iii. 
 
 the fuppofed milk of, what, 115. 
 
 Mary
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Mary Magdalene, v/onderful ca.vtrn (o caUcdy Mufctum, curlofities in M{^«"s, i-/<). 
 
 368. coUedlions of, liJo. 
 
 Medals, cabinet of, 152. Mu/Ical hofpltal, 329. 
 
 a fingular one, 290. Muftcians, female, ibid. 
 
 Medallion, rare one, 152. Mutton, exquifite, ^^-^.n. 
 
 Meridian line, 123. 
 
 Method, remarkable, of fifliing, 370. 
 
 Methods of preferving animals, 237. N. 
 
 Miles, German, their proportion to Englipj, 
 
 361. ». T^y/rra, extraordinary largenefs of fruits 
 
 Mincio river, defcription of, 167. n. -^^ near, 7, 
 
 Minera cinnaberis, 378. , account of the town of, 5. ---Why 
 
 Miners, their fuperllition, ^yy. called Nequintim, Z,^/^. —- Birth-place of 
 
 Minium, its ufe among the ancients, 283. great men, ibid. 
 
 Mint, account of, ^^. Naumachia, remains of, 184. 
 
 Miracles, 25, 29, ^j, 68. Neapolitan tranfports, hardlhip on them. 
 
 Miraculous image, 116. g6o, 
 
 Mirandola, how it came to the duke of Mo- Nera, plenty of fifli in, 6. 
 
 dena, 140, feq^. — Revenues, 141. Nix ferri, what, 296. 
 
 Mijfon, miftake of his cleared up, 338. martis, what, ibid. 
 
 Mtftrejfes kept in common at Venice, 2^6. Nobility at Venice, fhabbinefs of, 275. 
 
 Mocenigo, doge, his epitaph, 325. - at /^^raVf avoid the place of execu- 
 
 Modena, account of, ^35, feq. tion, 284. 
 
 eminent perfons born in, 137. - their devotion and luxury, 30S. 
 
 difference betwikt the two princes, ■ Noblemen zt Venice, their rudenefs, zy6. 
 
 as alfo between the duke and hereditary iVb/wz of concealed treafu res in Italy, 18. 
 
 prince, 141. Nunneries, free manner of living in thofe of 
 
 number of its inhabitants, 143. Venice, 303. 
 
 — Particular property of its foil, ibid. fcq^. 
 
 Monti, account of, 131. «. O. 
 
 Monument, 179. 
 
 magnificent, 310. — With mar- f~\Brizzi, marchionefs, her death and 
 
 ble cufhions, ibid. n. ^^ monument, 228,7?^. ---Infcription, 229. 
 of the Bernardi, .—-Of a learned pifture of the marchionefs of, 
 
 lady, 311. 242. 
 
 Monuments, 314. Ocrea, or Ocriculum, ruins of, 4. 
 
 Morcftni, Marco, 314. Of fo«o;wj of the J^/r^ miners, 3S1. 
 
 Mofes, the Itone from which he flruck wa- ' Oil colours, by whom invented, '^x^. 
 
 ^^^■> 337- Orii't'/o the painter, account of, 188. 
 
 Murano looking-glalTes, 299. --Compared O/ifra at Fma', 261.— Comparifon between 
 
 with thofe of Paris and iJreJden, Hid. the Italian and French^ ih:d. 
 
 — glafs-makers, the privilege of, 301. Ore, preparation of (r/;7«rt^^r, 379. 
 
 Muratori, v/orks of, 140. n. Orejle, mountain of St. 3. ---How lb called. 
 
 Murder, how looked upon in Italy, 200. ibid. 
 
 Mufieum, 153. Orlando, monument of, w.--- Cavern, ac- 
 
 _,. famous, 168, feq. count of, 5. 
 
 Padua.
 
 I N D 
 
 p. 
 
 PADUA, account of, 202. 
 . how its nobility loll the crimi- 
 nal jurifdiction, 249. 
 Paintings, ^7, 54, TJ- 
 
 ■I--- remarkiibic, 93. 
 Paintings, 94, c)=„ 96, feq. 98. 
 
 admirable, 98. 
 
 fine, J02, 103. 
 
 Paintings, 107, no, in, 114. 
 
 — — -- admirable, 119. 
 
 Paintings, 124, 137, 138, 139, 150, 152, 
 
 ^53- 
 • m frefco, 154. 
 
 Paintings, 156, 169, 173, 187, 192, 196, 
 
 277, 278. 
 
 . fault in one oi Titian"" %, ibid. 
 
 • hy Tintoretto, 279. 
 
 Paintings, 282, 284, 296, 302, 308,315, 
 
 31?' 324, 325- , , 
 
 - — famous one, 321. — Its value.— 
 
 Fault in, 325. 
 
 famous, 327. 
 
 Paintings, 327, 328, 347, 352. 
 
 Painting, academy of, 292. 
 
 Painters, account of two, 276. 
 
 the four moft famous among the 
 
 moderns, 349. 
 Palazzo de Monti, ^y. 
 
 de Popoli, 98. 
 
 Rannici, ibid. 
 
 Palaces at Venice, 293. 
 Panegyric on a learned lady, 210. 
 Papal dominions, hardlliips of, 48. 
 Paper made of cotton, 339. 
 Parma, account of, 150. 
 
 revenues of the duke of, 158. 
 
 - duke of, his characler, 160. 
 
 Parmefan cheefe, excellence of, to what 
 
 owing, 159. 
 Patin, epitaph of, 2 15. --Learned woman 
 
 of that name, 216. 
 P aires, Zomafcha, 342. 
 Patriarch at Venice, account of, 303. 
 4 
 
 E X. 
 
 Pearls, cxtraded from an animal, 126. 
 Pepin, talfe j)retence about iiis body, 190. 
 Pernicious z^izSi of mercury on miners, 380. 
 Petrarch, an account of, 242.— -His amour, 
 ibid. n. 
 
 natural daughter, 246. 
 
 PctrifaSions, 147, 195, feq. 201. 
 Petrolmm, for what uled, 145. 
 Pharos of Ravenna, 7 3 . 
 Philharmonic academy, 177. 
 Philoti Ibciety, what, 178. 
 Phofphorus Balduinus, what, 134. 
 
 burning, z'/'/i.— -Fulgurans from 
 
 the mixture of two liquors, 134. 
 Phyjic garden, 95. 
 
 Pi^ure of the Virgin, by St. Luke, 113. 
 Pi£lure of clergy in hell, 116. 
 
 - remarkable copy of one, 153. 
 
 - fine one, 162, 186. 
 
 hy St. Luke, 215. 
 
 — of the fubmiflion of Frederick I. to 
 
 the Pope, 279. 
 
 of Frederick I. his fubmiflion, 306. 
 
 - admirable, 321. 
 
 - exquifite, prefented to the king of 
 
 France, 344. 
 Pieta, exquifite one, 188. 
 Pigeons made letter-carriers, 137. «.— Several 
 
 inftances of, ibid. 
 Pigni, fruit of the, 68. 
 Pilgrims, great number of, ^■^. n. 
 Pillars of gTunztc, 283. 
 
 beautiful, 324. 
 
 Place where the Santa Cafa of Loretto for- 
 merly flood, 361. 
 Placentia, great number of ecclefiaftics in, 
 160. 
 
 fair, ibid. 
 
 Plague, painting of, 348. 
 Polijhing houfe at Paris, 301. 
 P(5///zV^/ inquifition at Venice, 273. 
 Ponte Molle, or Milvio, near Rome, i. 
 Ponte Felice, ibid.— -From what fo called, 2, 
 Popes, former pride of, 91. 
 limitation of his power and the cler- 
 gy's at Venice, 303. 
 
 Porcariat
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Pcrcaria, or PortariUy charming profpeft 
 towards, 5. 
 
 Porphyry veflel, what trouble it put the de- 
 vil to, 191. 
 
 Praxiteles, two images by him, 341. 
 
 Prieji, ignorance of one, 36. ». 
 
 Pretender, his offering to the virgin Mm-y, 
 
 41- 
 Prior ^ poifoned by the cup, 341. 
 
 Proculo, St. carries his head into Bologna, 
 
 119. 
 Procuratie, account of, 281. 
 Procurators of St. Mark, 272. 
 Prodigality, remarkable inftance of in a 
 
 common foldier, 168. 
 Prognojlics, vanity of them, 354. 
 Prqjiitutes, their devotion, 344. 
 Proverb about four P's, 255. 
 P«^//V brothels at P^i««, 238. 
 
 PUKSy 88. 
 
 OUarantaine, manner of performing it, 
 358- 
 ^ickfilver, experiment of, 378. 
 
 ^ivalijii, who, 202. 
 
 R. 
 
 RAdiatices in fea-water, what, 134. 
 i?«/i/&flf/ paints porcelain, 44, 
 Ravenna, 70. 
 
 Razafa, account of it, 358. 
 Reatini, complaint of, againlt the Interam- 
 
 nates, what, 11. — OV^ro's account fome- 
 
 what obfcure, ibid. 
 Reggio, account of, 148, feq. 
 Reprefentation of our Saviour on the crofs 
 
 chimerical, 324. 
 Retorts, number of, in the Idra mines, 382. 
 Rjalto at Venice, 292. — Great canal, ibid. 
 Ridicule in a monument, 309. 
 Ridiculous arms of Colleoni, 328, 
 Rimini, 58. 
 
 Vol. IH. 
 
 Road, incomparable, 361, 
 
 Rock, very remarkable holes in, ^74. 
 
 Rock oil, account of, 145. 
 
 Rodolpho Carlo, his epitaph, 350. 
 
 Romifl} new faints, to what owing, 3. «. 
 
 Rowing-mzxchcs,, 268. 
 
 Rubicon, account of C^;'s pafTing it, 63, 
 
 S. 
 
 OAcramental cup made an inftrument of 
 
 ^ revenge, 341. 
 
 St. Antony, place where he preached to the 
 
 fifhes, 62. 
 
 ■ • miraculous image of, 102, feq. 
 
 ■ I . extraordinary devotion paid to, 
 
 204. 
 St. Afollinaris, body of, •]•]. 
 St. Beatrix, prediftion of, 139. 
 5/. Jujlina, elegant church of, 218. — Re- 
 
 liques, 219. 
 St. Lucia, pretended miracle in favour of, 
 
 324- 
 
 St. Luke, his remains, 319. 
 
 his numerous paintings, 26 «. 
 
 5/. MzrFs place, 281. 
 
 ■ his golpel written by his own 
 
 hand, 338. 
 
 S. Servulo, cavern near it, 357. 
 
 St. Stephen, his body, 324. 
 
 Sage, wild, its advantage, ^6^. 
 
 Sella Farnefe., account, of 93. 
 
 Salmon trouts, 360. 
 
 cW/- works, 67. 
 
 1 -^ — remarkable, 158. — Blood ufcd 
 
 in, ibid. 
 
 Salt-wovks, 3 5 6. -i— Inconveniences of them, 
 ibid. 
 
 Sannazarius, paneg)'ric on, 252. £5?;;. 
 
 Snxon foffiles, 125. 
 
 6'irrtra^zVa's epitaph, 217. 
 
 Schulemburg, count, his income as gene- 
 ral, (^c. 298. 
 
 ^f^j-water, obfervations on its bitternefs, 
 256,= — Saltnefs, 257.- 
 
 E e e Senegaglia,
 
 Ix Ni Di E;'i X; 
 
 Sem'gnglia, r,^. ,..yj, .,^,,yv.N Terni, vj]\y cMcd hteyamHitfj. — ^Icstrade, lO; 
 
 Hc/Ji, method for coolir.g cellars; jtbi^riSi^^ 5.' Tora virgiw aurea, account of, 145. 
 
 i/j(if/s, deep, 376. j, ' ^"" 'Theatre, noble one, 150,7^5. — Extraordi- 
 
 Sbdh, large, 53 «. ." nary conUrudion of, 151. 
 
 %//-fift in ftone, 126. curious, 197. 
 
 i7;/j!)-yard, 364.' Theodoras kin^oi- ihe OJlrogoths-, h\% ^z\z.cc, 
 
 S/gncria ol' Fenice, its genexoficy, 352. 7'- 
 
 6';7X'-niill, 86. rbunder, cffcCl of it, 373. 
 
 paper, 339. Timkr, manner of proving, 289. 
 
 Somis, mademoifelle, at Tjiriv, 263. , Tintoretto, account of, 278. 
 
 Spanifh ambaffador turns monk, 344, ftq. bis penance, 340. 
 
 ■ '- qviickfilver mines, 382. Tiiim, account of, 278. — Faults in a paint- 
 
 ^pcSires in mines, 377. ing ti^ ^^'^ 
 
 tipoktto, 15. rpaftcr- piece, 325. 
 
 5»'«rj fecn in the day-time, 124. Tomb o'i /Iccurjj, 109, 
 
 Statues, remarkable, 61. of St. Danmc, 104. 
 
 Stalue, 74. Tcii^tp, 217, 271. 
 
 brafs one, of Gregory XIII. 89, T'omn^., the fifli fo called, 364. 
 
 remarkable of //^m//w, 92. Tower, lofty one, 281. 
 
 of St. Petror.ius, 103. - of Degli Afinelli, height of, 88, 
 
 1 remarkable, 115. of Garifenda, a leaning one, ibid. 
 
 Statues, 160, 165. Treafury zxLoretto, 38. 
 
 of five celebrated perfons, 176. — of St. Mark, 0,1%. 
 
 Of Verona, 177. Trevefano, doge, 314. 
 
 colledion of, iS6. Triefle, account of, 354. 
 
 Statue, 78. Triumviri, where entered into an alliance, 
 
 of Livy, 223. 13^- 
 
 Statues, 276, 277. T«r,^7/^ fleet defeated, 33 f. 
 
 of count Schulemhurg, z^y. Turks, inftance of their favage perfidy, 326, 
 
 Statues, 313, 323. Turnips, extraordinary large, 7./;. 
 
 Stones, globular, 47. T'urtles, 308. 
 
 Stone, a very extraordinary, 71. 
 
 that from which Mofes flruck the wa- U. 
 
 ter, s^7- 
 
 devotion paid to it, 337. 
 
 Story, 37, 38, 45, 165, 264, 319, 259- 
 
 Subtilty of mercury, 380. 
 
 Sim and moon, comprehenfivenefs of the 
 
 woriliip of, 74. n. 
 
 TAffoni\ poem la Secchia rapita, to what 
 owing, 138. 
 Terenatico, his wonderful efcape, 14. 
 Ttrni, account of, 7. 
 
 ULtramarine, what, 293. 
 Univerfily, account of, 121. 
 IJva pa£'a, ox pajferina, wJiy lb called, 7. n. 
 Velino, remarkable cataratt of, 10, feq. 
 Venetian navy, 288. 
 
 - — hiftorians, remark on, 290. 
 
 Venice, account of, 250. — Prophecy con- 
 cerning it, 251. — Saunazarius, panegy- 
 ric on, 252. 
 
 - defended by feveral fmall iflands, 252. 
 
 another encomium on the fame, 253, 
 
 feq. 
 
 J eriice,,
 
 IX N^i 
 
 Venice, profptcl of, ir^^T-'^^^''^' 
 
 , compared with .■hijlerdam, iMd, 
 
 .. number of its iflancls, 256. 
 
 irefh-water fprings, il>id.^<^^"> V^' 
 
 water for baking, ibid. 
 
 .'- its ancient inhabitants, inns, fifh, fc 
 
 encomium on, 291. 
 
 Verona, account of, 174, feq. 
 
 - wine, 185. 
 
 Veronefe, Paul, night-piece of, 169. 
 
 _ remarks on a piece of, 198. 
 
 fine picture by him, 321. 
 
 Veronefe, Paul, 349. 
 Verfes, Latin onts, 92. 
 
 over an old woman's pidlure, 242. 
 
 on Vercna, 175. 
 
 VaJJ'ari, ingenious obfervation of, 334. ;/. 
 Verrochio, fome account of, 328. 
 
 his ingenious invention, ibid. 
 
 Via Cajfia, 1 . 
 
 Via Flaminia, ibid. 
 
 Ficenzay vindidlive temper of its people, 
 
 200. 
 
 - defcription of, 196, feq. 
 
 - the meaneft citizen of, why a 
 
 count, 200. 
 ViSfcria, his epitaph, 2,52- 
 Vines, boards of, JS- '"• 
 Vinum Pujcinum, its virtue, '^e^'j. i£ n. 
 Vipers, 237, feq. 
 
 Virgil's defcription of ancient Mantua, 168. 
 - bufto and birth-place, 174,175. 
 
 D E X; 
 
 Virgin Mary'n image, great ceremony in 
 dreffing it, 27. 
 
 appearance of her image at 
 
 Lore: to, 261. 
 l,etin rhyine addrefled to her, 
 
 362. 
 Virgin mercury, 377, 
 Virtue of a country girl, 229. 
 Von Egg's fcntence, 1 29. 
 Votive pieces, abufes ot them, 42. 
 
 W. 
 
 YJTJfer, confecrated llory of, 319. 
 '' f'Varm haths of Abano, 24.0.— -Plin/s 
 
 account, n.— Martial's epigram, ibid. 
 IVax, quantity of it imported from Hungary 
 
 to Venice, 360. 
 /^>?'/?;5/?f«/ infcription, 352. 
 fVbite horned cattle with bells, why, 135,; 
 fVill, conciie form of, 236. 
 fVine-vauks, fpacious, 44. 
 fVitty epitzph on Jretine, 334* 
 IVoodfomk, 16. 
 
 X. 
 
 'Vhni, doge, his monument, 323. 
 Z. 
 
 "7 Anoni, curiofities of, 131. 
 
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