,"C SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY G 000 08411 6 3 «|. E R K S H I R E .ic/.l i?Fr. P, //. DI TCH FIELD, u ? 1 '" ^^:f( V^x!*v -O^A l./^~ BEal^^^Hl '^'^^^^^^\ 1%^ ^^^^^ 'C^ ^K .^ -t-dt^ ^ THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES 1 Pr,r^^ 7 Buijijf i' Uvwell Hccsc ^ 3 Mertaith ajp Madcfh i Howell ap (trirrifh 5 Ednevet Vychan 6 Richardson % '(J . ►vy, BYGONE BERKSHIRE. '■^UK CA^Tll Bygone Berkshire EDITED BY P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A., Eilitor of the "Berks, Bucks, a)id Oxon A rr/Kvolofiiral Journal, Secretary of Berkshire Archie olorjical Society. Author of " Oitr English Villages," etc. LONDON : WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., r^, FARRINGDON AVEN(JE. I 8 9 G . HI' I.I. : WILLIAM .\NPRF.\VS AND CO., THE HULL PRKSS. A-)' L IPrcface, ^ I ^HE Hoyal County has many charms for the ^ Antiquary and the Historian, and we trust that " Bygone Berkshire" will not be the least interesting volume of the series which the publisher has so successfully inaugurated. We have attempted to give some glimpses of bygone times and episodes, sketches of the manners and customs of old Berkshire folk, and a few biographical notices of our heroes and learned men. The story of our castles and abbeys shows how many great events in the history of England have been enacted on Berkshire soil, and Windsor, the home of our sovereigns, sheds additional glory on the annals of our ancient county. The editing of this volume has been a task congenial to one who for many years has made Berkshire his home, I desire to express my gratitude to the authors who have so kindly co-operated witli me in the preparation of this 534811 LIBRARY PREFACE. volume, and I trust that their labours will meet with the approbation of all who reverence antiquity, and love the traditions of the Royal County. P. H. DiTCHFIKLD. Baukham Puxtouv, AiiffJi-il, 189G. Contents. PAGE HiiTORic Berksiiikk. By P. H. Ditchtield, m.a., f.s.a. - I Windsor Castlk. By Evelyn Ingleby 21 Wallingforu Castle. By J. E. Field, bi. a. . . . 47 CuMNOR Place and Amv Robsart. By H. J. Reid, f.s.a. 63 Alfred the Great. By \V. H. Thompson - - . - gs The Guilds of Berkshire. By P. H. Ditchtield, m.a., f.s.a. The Scouring of the White Horse. By E. R. Gardiner, m.a. ' 137 The Last of the Abbots 153 Siege of Reading 160 Reading Abbey - 179 The First Battle of Newbury. By Edward Lamplougli - 193 The Second Battle ok Newbury. By Edward Laniijlouj^h 204 BiNKiELD and Easthampstead, 1700-1716, and the Early Years of Alexander Pope. By C. W. Penny, bla. 211 Berkshire Words and Phrases. By M. J. Bacon, m.a. - 235 Bull Baiting in Berkshire. By Canon Sburges, m.a. - 244 Index. By William Andrews, f.r h.s. 258 BYGONE BERKSHIRE. -> ^♦^ < 1bi6toric Berhsbire. By Rev. P. H. Ditchfield, m.a., f.s.a. BERKSHIRE has played an important part in the annals of our country, and been the scene of many stirring ev^ents in English history. For eight hundred years it has enjoyed the proud distinction of being the Royal County ; Windsor Castle, the ancient home of the kings and queens of England, is within its borders, and it has shared the fortunes and misfortunes of the Royal House. Indeed, its proud distinctive title may be traced to a period more remote than that of the building of the Castle by the Plantagenet Kino's ; Alfred the Great was born in Berkshire, and there were royal palaces in Saxon times at Farringdon and Old Windsor. Here the Confessor King oft resided. Here the Conqueror hunted the tall stacks whom he loved " as though 1 2 BYGONE BERKSHIRE. he were their father." Hence from Saxon times to the present day Berkshire has deserved its royal title, and has been pre-eminently the county which kings delight to honour. The history of Berkshire is indeed the history of England. Successive waves of conquerors ^^^'^sed over our hills and vales, and have left their traces behind them in the names of hamlets, towns, and villages, or in barrows or earthworks. In Celtic times the greater part of Berkshire was held by the powerful family of the Segontiaci ; eastern Berkshire was inhabited by the Bibroci ; whilst on the south dwelt the Atrebates, a tribe of the Belgse, mentioned by Ca3sar, who migrated into these parts from Gaul and drove the Celts northward. Silchester, the famous Roman city, the Pompeii of England, was their capital before it was captured by the Roman legions ; and the Avails, which seem to defy the attacks of time, were built alono- the Atrebatian earthworks. o Very numerous are the remains of these ancient inhabitants of Britain in various parts of the county. There are the old roads and trackways, the most important being the Ridgeway, running along the Ilsley Downs, forming part of the HISTORIC BERKSHIRE. 3 Icknield Street, which connected the east and west of Britain. The road is flanked by fortresses of earth at various places along its course, and barrows mark the burial places of the heroes of their tribes. The chief of these are Letcombe, Uffington, Lowbury, Churn Knob, and Scutcha- more Knob. The so-called " King Alfred's Bugle Horn," near Kingston Lisle, a large stone pierced with natural holes, is really a Celtic Memorial. Its trumpet-note can be heard for miles, and was used by the British tribes to summon their scattered bands together when danger threatened. And Wayland Smith's Cave, immortalized by Sir Walter Scott, and supposed to be the burying- place of a Danish chieftain, is probably a British cromlech. In other parts of Berkshire, especially on the high ground between the Thames and Kennett, there are many traces of the ancient inhabitants of our country. When the tide of Roman conquest flowed over Britain the old inhabitants of our county soon felt its force and yielded to the storm. Their lands then formed part of the Roman province of Britannia Prima. Instead of incessant tribal wars and rude barbaric manners, the conquerors established peace and civilisation. Silchester 4 BYGONE BERKSHIRE. became the centre of tlieir rule in this part of the country, and instead of the pit dwellings and rude huts of the natives they erected their stately villas and their forums and bacilicas, the ruins of which, after a burial of many centuries, are now being disinterred. This city lies just beyond the confines of Berkshire, although the Amphitheatre, where Roman gladiators fought, and where, doubtless, as at Rome during the Decian Persecution, Christians were doomed to death, " butchered to make a Roman holiday," is within our borders. Silchester was the centre of our system of Roman roads. Other Roman towns in this district were Spinre (Speen, near Newbury), Thamesis (probably Streatley). and Bibracte (possibly Wickam Bushes, near Easthampstead). A rt»a(l ran fi-om Silchester to Pontes (Staines), and another fr<»iii the same place to Spinas. Romano-British remains have been found ii) abundance at Wallingford, Compton, Reading, and other places ; and Roman villas discovered at Maidenhead, Hampstead Xorris, Frilsham, and elsewhere. With the Romans also came Christianity, and at Silchester have recently been discovered the remains of what is probably the most ancient ecclesiastical building in the country,. HISTORIC BERKSHIRE. 5 the forerunner of the many beautiful churches which adorn our county. But dark days were in store for our British ancestors, enfeebled by Roman luxury, when the legions were withdrawn to protect the centre of the Empire, and they were left to shift for themselves. The tierce Saxons poured into the land, a happy hunting ground for adventurous warriors, and with fire and sword destroyed the towns and villas which the Romans had left. Calleva, or Silchester, soon fell a prey to the ruthless conquerors, and was burnt to the ground.* This was said to have been accomplished by tying burning tow to a swallow's tail. The Celts were driven westward, and found a secure retreat in the fastnesses of Wales and Cornwall, where the British church lived on and waited the advent of better days. The Saxons hated walled towns, which they regarded as " graves of freedom surrounded by nets," and loved to make clearings in the forests and form agricultural settlements. In no part of England have they left more enduring marks of their presence than in Berkshire. The names of * So say the Chroniclers ; but modern investigators seem to think that the city did not fall a prey to fire and sword, but died a lingering death by the slow process of gradual decay. 6 BYGONE BERKSHIRE. our towns and villages are nearly all Saxon, and mark the spot where their powerful families formed their settlements. We find the Riedingas at Heading, the Wokings at Wokingham, the Ardings at Ardington, the sons of Offa at Ufting- ton, the Farringas at Farringdon, and scattered all over the county are the Jidds and hams, and steads and tons, which denote a Saxon origin. The name of the count}^ too, is decidedly Saxon, and is probably derived from Beorce, the birch- tree, or from the Berroc wood, ^vhich occupied a large part of the scire or shire. It formed part of the important kingdom of Wessex, and soon became the battlefield of opposing tribes. Offa, King of Mercia (a.d. 750-796), wrested that portion which borders on the Thames from King Kinewulf, after the battle at Bensington. In the time of Egbert (a.d. 800), Wessex recovered its territory, and established its superiority over the other kingdoms of the Saxon Octarchy, its ruler becoming the first Bretwalda or monarch of England. In the time of Ethelred I., the brother of Alfred the Great, a Berkshire hero, born at Wantage, came the black raven of the Danes, and on the chalk hills many a fierce fight ^vas fought between the old and new invaders. HISTORIC BERKSHIRE. 7 At length, after the Danes had captured Reading, and were movino- westward to ravao-e the whole country, Ethelred and his immortal brother Alfred drew up their Saxon hosts at ^scendune (the Ash-tree Hill), slew the Danish King B^egsceg, and put his yellow -haired warriors to flight. This great battle checked the conquering career of the Danes, who, though they made several incursions into the count}^, and set on fire Reading and Wallingford, gained no per- manent footing in its valleys. The exact site of this victory has been vigorously disputed ; it may possibly be identified with Ashdown, near Lambourne, where the white horse cut out on the adjoining hill is supposed to commemorate the valour of the Saxons, but the best authorities place it at Lowbmy. Ashmole states that when England was united under King- Alfred, another division was made, and when the office of High Sheriff", or Vice Comes, was instituted, Berkshire and the adjoining county of Oxford were put under the authority of the same person. In the war with the Danes during the reign of Ethelred II., Berkshire was again laid waste by fire and sword, and the barbarous invaders burnt 8 BYGONE BERKSHIRE. Reading. Wallingford, and other places in 1006. They destroyed, too. witli ruthless hand the numerous churches and monasteries, which since the conversion of the Saxons to Christianity, had been erected in our towns and hamlets. This conversion was accomplished by the preaching of Berin or Birinus, who, with a company of faithful monks, arrived in Berkshire about 636 a.d. He was received by King Kynegils, Oswald of North- umbria, his son-in-law, and other princes at Churn Knob, and convinced his hearers of the truth of Christianity. The Kino^ and his court were baptised at Dorchester, which became an important centre of missionary enterprise. The earliest monastic house was the famous abbey of Abingdon, founded by Heane, its first prior, and nephew of Cissa, Viceroy of Kentwine, who was a great benefactor to the monastery. Here also Heane's sister founded a nunnery dedicated to St. Helen, which was removed to Wytham. The abbey, in spite of being burned by the Danes, became very rich and prosperous. At Reading, Elfreda founded a nunnery in expiation of the murder of her step-son, and almost every village had its parish church. In the time of the Norman Conquest there were as many as 1,700. HISTORIC BERKSHIRE. 9 At Sonning there was a bishop's palace, but although Leland speaks of the Bishops of Sonning, it was never an episcopal seat. Soon the peaceful hamlets of Saxon folk were rudely disturbed by the advent of the Norman invaders, and Saxon writers lament over the sadness of the times, when English lands were bestowed upon the followers and favourites of the Conqueror, who reared their mighty strongholds everywhere, " filled with devils and evil men," who plundered the English, confined them in dungeons, and were guilty of ever}^ kind of cruelty and crime. At Wallingford, William received the submission of Archbishop Stigand Bnd the principal barons before he marched to London. There arose the strong castle, built by Robert D'Oyly, and others were erected at Windsor, Reading, Newbury, and later at Farringdon, Brightwell, and Donnington. The history of the castles at Wallingford and Windsor will be recorded in this volume ; Donnington endured an excitino- sie^fe during^ the Civil Wars ; the others were speedily destroyed. The foundation of the famous Abbey of Reading was the chief event for Berkshire in the reign of Henry I., a magnificent building, one of 10 BYGONE BERKSHIRE. tlic richest and most |)()\verful in the kingdom. It was commenced in 1121. A royal charter was granted in 1125 conferring upon it important piivileges, and the great Church of the Abbey- was consecrated by Archbishop Becket in 1164. Here the embalmed l)ody of King Henry I. was buried, and subsequently the eldest son of Henry II. found here a last resting-place. Here many stirring events in the annals of English history took place ; here Parliaments were held and royal festivals, and many exciting conclaves sat to discuss the disputes of kings and barons and papal legates. To these inviting themes we need not now refer, as the history of the Abbey will be dealt with in a separate chapter. The wars between Stephen and the Empress Maud devastated the c(mnty. As each side gained the supremacy they proceeded to take vengeance on the supporters of the vanquished, and the land was filled with fi