UC-NRLF $B 2bQ 5M7 GIFT OF Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2007 witii funding from Microsoft Corporation littp://www.arcliive.org/details/carpentersguidetOOmillricli THE CARPENTERS' GUIDE Treating on Lines and the Square A Tv S O Giving Practical Rules and Methods on Carpentry HARVEY MILLER \'^ « • - . • • Copyright Applied for 1920 . o o INDEX o page Assemble a Roof 85 Base, Rise and Hypotenuse in Framing 30 Base Feet of Cripple Rafters 38 Base Feet of Common Rafters 36 Base Feet of Hip Rafter 39 BaseFeet of Jack Rafters 38 Base Feet of Rafters 36 Base Feet of Valley Rafter 39 Cases and Cupboards 70 Common Rafter 45 Corn Crib 77 Cripple Rafter 50 Cut and Place Studding 25 Door and Window Frames 62 Excavate for Basement 13 Fence and Gauge for the Square 42 Finish Floors 66 Forms for Concrete Wall 14 Garage 75 Grade of a Building 8 Height of Ridge 39 Hen House 80 Hip Rafter 51 Hog House 83 Inside Finish 66 Introduction 5 Jack Rafter 48 Lathing 65 Level a Building 10 Locate a Building 7 Names of Rafters 29 Outside Finish 56 Outside Wall Sheeting 29 Pitch of Roof 41 4252h INDEX - Continued Placing Sills and Girders 20 Placing and Spacing Plates 24 Planes and their Uses 100 Plumb a Building 28 Porch 63 Practical Hints \96 Proportion of Concrete 18 Saw Trestle 108 Scaffold 108 Setting and Filing Saws : 106 Sheath a Roof 55 Shingle a Eoof 60 Spacing and Placing Joists 21 Square a Building 11 Stairs 71 Stake for a Building 7 Straight Edges 98 Sub Floors , 23 Test a Level 100 Test a Plumb 102 Test a Square 99 The Square 44 To Find the Length of Ridge 40 To Set Door and Window Frames 63 Trim Openings 27 Truss Framing 93 Valley Rafter 54 Work Bench 102 INTRODUCTORY SET A long felt need on a work to explain carpentry in a brief, practical way has in- duced me to write this little book, giving rules and illustrations that will be helpful as a guide to the Mechanic, Apprentice or Student in manual training in developing ideas of construction. It is not our aim to illustrate every pos- sible cut that is to be made with the square, but to give simple rules and illustrations which will, by studying their methods, be a guide in making any cut desired. By the use of the steel tape-line, square, plumb, level and lines, one ma}^ demonstrate all illustrations with the rules herein given. The student may work them out by square-root or geometry, as all framing is based on horizontal perpendicular and ang- ular lines; but we will treat them in the way they are practically used. The uses of lines and measurements will be expiainecf/ 'as 'well as the use of the square. The line is used in locating, laying out, and squaring a building, also in lining walls, forms, partitions, plates, measure- ments, etc. ; hence the importance of lines and their uses. Practical methods will be given of the square as we have used it in construction for twenty-five years. The method is the same, whether cutting a rafter for a garage, school, church, house or any other building. The square is familiar to nearly every man, woman and child, and is looked upon as a mysterious tool. There are 3 lines that will give any cut in framing to be made with the square, the base, rise and hypotenuse. The rules and illustrations given in this booklet will enable you to make any cut desired, and understand the use of the square in obtaining pitch of roof, length and cut of rafters, braces, etc., also in Truss bridging and bracket framing. Our aim in compiling this booklet is to give to others the practical methods that would have been a guide to us as Apprentices and Mechanics. TO LOCATE A BUILDING Draw a line in the street 200 feet or more, in front of the intended structure parallel with the street or road, then meas- ure in from this line at two different points to establish the line for the front wall parallel with the one in the street. Locate the two front corners of the building. All other walls and corners must be located and squared from this front wall line. (See PARM EL LINL OF ^TUt&T I T r I J I FRONT I h £0' - o" -^ FIG. 1 LOCATE A BUILDING fig. 1.) In this illustration, the wall line is set back 40' from the street line. The building is 20'x24^ The two front corners are 20' apart, located on the front wall line. TO STAKE OUT A BUILDING From the established corners on front wall measure and stake the approximate lo- cation of the other corners and drive three stakes in a triangle two or more feet out- side of the wall lines, place two boards (termed batter boards) at each corner to be nailed on the stakes when the grade is es- tablished and the building leveled. (See fig. 2.) •AKt S i , 11 1/ l=RONT WALL LlNti // H -. — k: *-i 1 s/r I^EJ I ^EJTABLUHED (lORNER \^ — — 2o'-o" ■t-1 r i s 1 ^T APPROXIMXTt WALL LINE r FIG. 2 TO JTAKE OUT A BUILDING THE GRADE OF THE BUILDING The grade is an established line from '8 Avhicli all measureineiits ar(^ taken for the height of the building and the depth of the l)asement. This grade line is the top of the wall or bottom of the sill. Take a general survey of the surrounding grounds to o})tain the proper height for grade line and mark on one of the front corner stakes the desired height. From this grade mark all other corners and angles are to be leveled. (See fig. 3.) r I I GRADE Llr^E 2 FEET Above THE OROUND FIG. 3 9 —I ^ f TO LEVEL A BUILDING To the stake designating the height of wall or grade line nail the batter boards FIG. 4 leveled on the triangle stakes. From this corner level and sight to all other corners and mark the height of grade line, then nail the batter boards on the stakes at 10 grade height around each corner and angle. Measure the length and width of intended structure on the batter boards and from these measurements draw a line on four sides (fig. 4), sight across to see that all lines are parallel; if they are not, relevel to all corners to find the one that is out of level and raise the same parallel with other lines, {fig. ^y^.) LEVtL ^ HOT LEVtL FIG. Ml TO SQUARE A FOUNDATION The front wall line, parallel to the street and leveled to grade, remains unchanged. Rule 1. From the intersection of the lines at the established corners of the build- 11 iiig, meas^ure 6' on one line and 8' on the intersecting line and adjust the side line so the hypotenuse, or measurement between 6' and 8' will be 10' (fig. 5). With every ad- 5 ATT Eft BOARD5 FIG. 5 TO SQUARE A FOUNDATION 12 justment of the line, remeasure from the intersection of the two lines until the meas- urements are exactly 6^, 8' and 10' and the lines will be at a perfect right angle or square (fig. 5). Rule 2. Take a steel tape-line and meas- ure diagonally to the opposite corners, then reverse the tape-line to the two opposite corners, and adjust the lines until the meas- urements are the same and the lines will be squared. This rule is reliable in any building where the measurements are taken equal distances on the side lines from the two front corners and both ends of line are the same width. TO EXCAVATE A BASEMENT From the lines that have been leveled and squared to the grade, plumb down for the excavation. Cut a stake the length of intended depth of the basement from the grade line to the basement floor — allowing for the thickness of cement floor, excavate the depth of this stake from the grade line. All measure- ments for depth of basements, walls, piers, footings, etc., are taken from the grade line. 13 Leave an approach at one end to draw out the ground. When all dirt is removed ex- cept the approach, draw the line in place, plumb down, aud excavate the balance with a shovel. Where the bank is to be used for the outside form of a concrete wall, exca- vate plumb with the wall lines, but where forms are used on both sides, the depth of the wall, excavate the outside of the wall lines 8'' to V to admit the forms. FORMS FOR BASEMENT WALLS All bearing walls should have footings sufficient in width and depth to carry the weight of the building (see fig. 7), excavate and put in the footings before setting forms for the walls. The forms for a concrete w^all are commonly made of board moulds. There are different ways in which these forms may be built. We will give one of the most practical ways for a basement wall. This method will work for any wall. Cut 2x4 's the length required for parti- tion studs of the building and use them for the upright supports of the basement wall. Plumb down from the grade or wall line at the corners and drive a stake directly 14 under the top wall lines. From these stakes draw a line to set the bottom of the forms plumb with the top line, cut enough sheet- ing boards of equal length to make a sec- tion of forms from the bottom of the base- ment to the top of the wall; set the corner studding the thickness of the sheeting out- side of the wall line; stake and nail the bottom and brace the top two ways to keep the corners plumb. Nail a board flush with this studding on the inside at the bottom, and set another studding, centered on the end of this board, plumbed and braced at the top and staked at the bottom the same as the corner studding. Then nail another board of this section at the top temporarily on which to space and set the other studs of this section. The studs should be spaced not more than 2I/2' apart. (See fig. 6a.) From this section measure to the opposite corner and cut enough boards of this length to make another section to finish the outside of the wall. • Space and set studs as in first section. Continue this method on each of the outside walls. Cut No. 11 wires long enough to span around the studs of the in- side and outside forms; place one around 15 each stud above the first board of the out- side wall and about 2' above this as the form is sheeted. When the inside form is placed and sheeted, they can be easily at- tained and tied. Cut VxV^ spreaders the KtS AMD .SPReADei^ i t L E.VATIOK - I 5ECTIOK length of desired thickness of the wall (fig. 6). Cut the boards for the inside sections, using the same method as for the outside, 16 placing studding directly opposite the out- side studding, except at the corners (fig. 6b). Set the end of the first section in from the outside wall %^' more than the length of the spreader to allow for sheeting of returning forms, then place another spreader between the two forms near the bottom of the form, loop the wire around the studs above the first board, tie and twist the wire to hold the spreader and form in place. Nail temporary ties at the top to stay the inside form to the outside, the thickness of the wall, mea&ure from this section to opposite corner allowing for thickness of wall and retui!n sheeting the same as the first . corner, keeping the wall of the same thickness,: : Cut ejiough boards of one length for this section and set the studs as before. Continue this method around the inside of the wall. Place a spreader be- tween the forms at each stud, where the wires were placed, in the outside walls as the sheeting progresses. Draw thein tight and tie on the edge of the studdings; with a bolt or spike twist the wires taut enough 17 to hold the spreaders in place ; continue this method until completed. Nail the boards with 6d nails, vice versa, every other stud. Continuing this process to the top of the wall, lay a 2x4 flat on the ground against the studdings and stake firmly to straighten the forms and hold them in place, also nail a 2x4 near the top of the form for the same purpose. Brace every other studding to hold form in place. Leave top wall line in place until all walls are straightened and braced. (See fig. 6.) CONCRETE MIXTURE For walls use 1 part of cement to 6 or 7 parts of coarse sand and gravel, depending on the sharpness of the sand. For concrete five parts of coarse sand and gravel for the floors and walks, take one part cement to base, 2 to 4" thick; basement floors, 2'^ thick; walks, 3%" base; for the top or finish coat use one part cement to three parts of sifted sand; using I/2 to %'' of this mixture. Apply the top while the base is moist so the top and bottom will unite. Straight edge and trowel to an even sur- face. 18 Where there is no machine to mix con- crete, clean a sufficient surface of hard ground, or lay a board floor where the ground is not suitable, close by the gravel and sand, then empty one or more sacks of cement conveniently close and to the number of shovels of sand or gravel for either of the above mixtures add one shovel full of cement and with a garden rake mix thoroughly. Continue this operation until a sufficient quantity is mixed, then reshovel and rake the pile again and you will have an even, dry mixture better than can be done with shovels alone and a greater quantity can be mixed at one time by this method. The cement will not set in a dry mixture. Moisten a portion of this by shoveling onto a separate pile and apply water sufficient to moisten to a proper con- sistency, mixing thoroughly and place in the floor or wall forms and continue this method until the work is complete. Where piers or footings are needed, locate them directly under the wall or supportiiig girder at the required distance apart, the height of which is determined from the grade line. (Fig. 7.) 19 For concrete floors, level the ground to the proper grade, take 2 2x3 's or 2x4 's to gauge the thickness of the floor, place the concrete on the floor the height of the gauge, draw a straight edge across the top of the gauge to level to an even surface. Draw the timber forward for another fill, and straight edge, the same as before. Fill the space of the timber as it is removed. The same method is advisable for the top coat, take % or % in strips and apply the top coat as described above. The surface should be leveled with a wooden float be- fore trowling. TO PLACE SILLS AND GIRDERS When the wall is seasoned and forms re- moved, lay the sills on the wall, the dimen- sions of the intended structure leveled and bedded in mortar. Where a girder is re- quired, double two to four thicknesses of 2" plank, indimention, to the weight to be carried; chisel a bearing in the wall so the top of the girder will be level with the top of the sill, put posts of 6'x6' or heavier, under the girder, 6' to 8' apart for ample support of the building. (Fig. 7.) 20 /JOIST '^/O. > •» V <" J "^J^L Zx8 U3 PLY GlR.OER_; -COMCR,tTE WALL Gk6 f05T- , FLCX^R f\Q. 7 SPACING AND PLACING JOISTS To space the joists, measure and mark 15'' and 17" from the corner on the sill and continue to space 16" from these mark- ings, set the joists between these lines and they win be 16" on centers across the build- ing. 21 If there are two rows of joists and you wish to lap them in the center, space one side 2" less in the first space so they will FIG. 8 EMD J015T ^ run parallel. (Fig. 8.) Where a sub floor is used, place a joist or header across the ends of the joists for a bearing of the sub 22 floor. Also a partition of rooms having no sub floors; bearings, or headers, should be cut and nailed in between joists to support sub floors at all openings. Locate chimney, cellar and all other open- ings and trim them the required size. Where the span of the joists are more than 12', cut a row of bridging and fasten them in place by nailing the top, leaving the bot- tom to be nailed after the sub floor is nailed in place. See that the crown of every joist is up. Where there is too much crown, straighten them so the top of all joists and bearings are level. (Fig. 8). SUB FLOORS In nearly all buildings it is best to lay the sub floors diagonally, so the finished floor can be laid to suit the room. Measure equal distances from the corners on both walls and place a floor board across to those points, lay the sub floor from this board, and the floor will be diagonal or 45 degrees. Trim the projecting edges even w^ith the outside of the joists and flush with all openings, nail all boards with two 8d nails in each joist, placing the nail %'' 23 from the outer edge of the board. (See fig. 8.) PLACING PLATES Place and line 2x4 plates around the outer edge of the building, then measure and locate all partitions, marking them on the plate and sub floor with a chalk line. Line all partitions on the sub floor to lay the partition plates. To space the outside studdings, begin at the front, measure 15'^ and 17" from the corner for the spacing of the first studding, then continue 16" from these markings, the studding will be 16" center. For all partitions space first studding 15" and 17" from intersecting wall and con- tinue spacing at intervals of 16" from these markings, the same as on the outside wall plates. This will locate studdings with 16" centers for lathing. Place the studding directly over the joists for bear- ing partitions where possible. Locate all door and window openings and mark them oh the plate, then make a duplicate plate for the top, laid beside the bottom plate, and mark the same spacings as for the bot- 24 torn plate, and the studs will be parallel to each other. Double the top plate after the studs have been put in place and raised. Lap joints at the corners and partitions with the top plate. (Fig. 9.) }feI>0"R->i jt-DCXiR-*< FIG. 9 TO CUT AND PLACE STUDDINGS From the desired height of ceiling, de- 25 duct the thickness of the plates for the length of the studding. After this has been done and a pattern made, nail a small block to one end allowing it to extend one inch over the sides, this studding is to be used as a gauge to mark and cut duplicate studdings. (Fig. 10.) FIG. 10 All corners should be doubled or trippled. (Fig. 11.) When the spacing is complete CT STUDS PLATE dORHER FIG. 11 26 and studs are cut, nail them on the top plates in their respective places, trim all openings, then raise the section and nail the studs to the lower plate. (Fig. 12.) ^TOP PL/kTt MtADtR- 'WIHDOW -tN05 or JOI5 I5T-' z dtLUR DOOR M= EHO JOI3T r ^ 5» LL FIG. 12 Where there is a ribbon used for the sup- port of the upper joists, measure down the thickness of the joist and notch in the stud the thickness and width of the ribbon be- low the joist for a bearing, using a 1x4 for the ribbon. TO TRIM OPENINGS Cut a gauge stake two inches longer than the height of doors, plus the thickness of the finish floor, and mark on the studding for the bottom of the top trimmer for door and window openings. For all window openings, measure down from the top 27 header 5'' more than the height of sash foi* the top of the bottom trimmer. The allow- ance for the head jamb and sill. All top trimmers should be doubled, the side trimmers for doors, sash and casement windows, add 3I/2'' to the width of the sash or door for side jambs. For a double hung or weight window, add 6'' to the width of sash for jambs and pockets. For a mullion (two windows side by side) allow 5%" more for mullion between windows for weight pockets and jambs. For sash or casement, mullions where there are no weights, allow the width you wish for the mullion casing. (Fig. 12.) In bearing partitions and walls, truss across the openings. All door sash and casements should be doubled on the side, set the full stud on the outside and double under the top header. TO PLUMB A BUILDING When all walls and partitions have been raised and fastened in place, nail a tem- porary brace board at the top to each cor- ner, extending diagonally to the bottom plate. With a straight edge and plumb '28 plumb each corner and angle, fasten the bottom end of the brace board to keep the frame plumb until the walls are sheathed, or permanent braces are cut between the studs. See that all plates are straight be- fore placing upper joists. (Fig. 12.) OUTSIDE WALL SHEATHING In most countries the outside is sheathed before a finish siding is put on. Begin at the bottom of the sill and sheath up. Cut all door sheathing flush with sash and case- ment window openings. For double hung or weight windows, let the sheathing boards extend 2" in the opening to form a pocket for the weights. Put two 8d nails in the boards at each studding. Trim all corners flush. Keep all openings and corners trimmed as you sheath. NAMES OF RAFTERS There are different kinds of rafters, viz : Common, Jack, Cripple, Hip and Valley (see Fig. 13). A common rafter extends from the plate to the ridge. A Jack rafter extends from the plate to intersection of the hip. A cripple rafter extendi frbm the yalley to hip or ridge. A hip rafter ex- 29 tends from the corner of the plate to the ridge diagonally. A valley rafter extends from the intersection of two roofs at right angle to the ridge and runs parallel with the hip rafter. (See fig. 13.) FIG. 15 BASE, RISE AND HYPOTENUSE There are three lines on the square with 30 which all cuts are obtained. The base, rise and hypotenuse (the angular line from base to rise), (see fig. 14). It is important to FIG. 14 understand their relative uses in framing. Study the rules and demonstrations herein given. The base represents the horizontal line and is reckoned in feet. Every hori- zontal line represents one base foot in framing. Twelve inches is the base of the square for common, jack and cripple raft- ers, brace, truss, bracket, bridging, house and barn framing, and nearly all framing at right angles; the 12''' base does not change on the square for obtaining the 31 pitch of roof, angle of brace and various cuts, as the rise. (See fig. 15.) / s- / - 1 1 1 1 1 i7i 1 1 1 i^6T^Pi-i-i-|-ri r FIG. 15 . The base of a hip or valley rafter is W . The diagonal, or hypotenuse of a 12" square is nearly 17". Every foot on the plate rep- resents one base foot of 17" for a hip and valley rafter (see fig. 16). This base does not change in obtaining the different pitches of roof (see fig. 17). Then a 17" base with the same rise used in the 12" base will meet at thet same point on the hips after. (See fig.'lS.) The Rise is the perpendicular line, and is 32 ■trc. ETC/ Vi / rsiJ — ' / ^/ 9 h- Vi M ^/ nl u. h y < < y f Q^ u J2" . / .jg . a. COM. R. / H / a: at oj 8 nl Xn^ c y .V ^^" RTfc FIG. 16 - ' ::.-•■• : ^- . 0- ■ ■/\. - ' - ,:-,-■/ ■ - <3-^ - ' ■- ■ ''"'■- y r. y . ^ ^ "5 / ^ " ^ r^ x >r^-/'^' t:'- ,t- ■ - • - :--- X -/i^/^r^-^C- ' ^— ''.J. - ^« 1 i.\ to 1 (1 M .r->r^4;^f^^f-rfff^^H • IT ^88 . r . I i . 1 I i^-i I > tVr I I I i i I I I I t FIG. 18 used on the square at right angle to the base. Every inch or fractional inch rise to one base foot gives a different pitch of roof, angle or cut. (See Figs. 15 and 17.) The Hypotenuse is the angular line from the base to the rise and is the pitch of roof and length of rafter in one base foot which is obtained by raising the Eise to the de- sired pitch or angle (see fig. 15). It is used with the base instead of the rise for the angular or face cut for Jack, Cripple, Hip and Valley rafters that meet the ridge, Hip and Valley rafters, which will be explained. 34 The base of an Octagon is 13'', used with the same Eise of the common rafter, to meet the same point. The difference of the radius and the distance to the corner of the octagon is 1" to every radius foot. (See %. 19.) FIG. 19 We will use repetitions of many of the 35 rules here given. If the Mechanic or Stu- dent does not understand them in one form, they may comprehend them in another. TO FIND THE BASE FEET IN A RAFTER To find the number of base feet of a rafter is absolutely necessary in framing a roof. The base of a rafter is the number k- — a B/kSE FT. ^ e FT. — FIG. 20 of horizontal feet to be spanned by the rafter. (See fig. 21.) It is advisable to draw the dimensions of the roof at 14" scale, and mark the rafters in, as shown in fig. 13. BASE FEET OF COMMON RAFTERS There are as many base feet in a com- mon rafter oi a Hip roof as there are num- ber of feet in one-half the width of the bliilding. (See fig. 21.) There are as many 36 kilalSI^ISIftlTlels 4 .o 1 1 I ■^V r i^ 1^ l *' y^ rr 5 nl -'^ < 1 y\ there are as many horizontal feet from the plate to a perpendicular line of the ridge with any Rise to obtain the required pitch. BASE FEET OF JACK RAFTER There are as many base feet in a Jack rafter as there are number of feet on the plate from the corner to the center of the rafter. (See fig. 21.) BASE FEET OF CRIPPLE RAFTER There are as many base feet in a cripple rafter that extends from the valley to the hip as there are number of feet on the plate from the corner at the hip rafter to the center of the valley rafter, or from corner to angle. (See fig. 21.) The base 38 of a cripple rafter that extends from the valley to the ridge of a gable roof is the number of feet on the ridge from the inter- section of the valley and ridge. The raft- ers are set out on the ridge, 2', 4' and 6', and have respective base feet. (See fig. 21.) BASE FEET OF HIP RAFTER Rule 1. There are as many base feet of 17'' in a hip rafter as the number of feet in half the width of the building. (See fig. 21.) Rule 2. In cases where the hip does not extend to the ridge, there are as many base feet in the hip rafter as there are feet on th plate at right angles to a plumb line of the intersection of the hip rafter. BASE FEET OF VALLEY RAFTER There are as many base feet of 17'' in a valley rafter as there are number of feet in half the width of the gable, or the num- ber of feet at right angles from the plate to a perpendicular line of the ridge. (See fig. 21.) HEIGHT OF RIDGE When there is a number of inches rise 39 given to one base foot, the height of ridge is equal to the given rise as many times as there are base feet in the rafter. Add the height of the heel of the rafters in line with the outside of the plate. (See fig. 22.) When a certain height of ridge is given the number of inches rise to one base foot is equal to the height, reduced to inches, di- vided by the number of base feet in the rafter. The height of ridge, 5' 4", the num- ber of base feet, 8. 5' 4''=64'' -^ by 8, the numT)er of base feet, gives 8" rise to one base foot. TO FIND THE LENGTH OF RIDGE For a hip roof the length of ridge is equal to the difference between the width and length of the building. (See fig. 23.) For a gable roof that intersects a main roof, the length of ridge is equal to half the width of the gable, plus any projection of build- ing from main building. (See fig. 23.) The dotted lines represent an offset of 4', the ridge in line ol plate is 8', niaking a total length of the ridgie: 12'. : .: 40 ^1 1 \ / \ \ / / t ^, \ Ur — 8 FT. ^>ik 8 FT. ?4 1 J.. 1 1 ^ 1 J .X : 1 FIG. 23 PITCHES OP ROOF Use the 2' square to determine the num- ber of inches rise and pitch. 1/2 Pitch is 1/2 of 24'' or 12'' rise to 12" base. 1/3 Pitch is 1/3 of 24" or 8" rise to 12" base; . 14- Pitch is 14 of 24" or 6" rise to 12" base. 41 1/6 Pitch is 1/6 of 24'^ or 4" rise to 12'' base. Vs Pitch is i/s of 24'' or 3" rise to 12" base. (See fig. 24.) Or take 1/2, 1/3 or 14 of the - oi- /_ / - &^ — , '/' . CO -7 ^ '^ / 0*5.-- ."*' «*)^ '^/iJ--^^^"^ . ." 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 Li**--r 1 1 1 L. 1 1 1 1 1 FIG. 24 width of the building for the pitch of the roof. FENCE AND GAUGE FOR THE SQUARE For rafter and stair framing, it is ad- visable to use a square gauge. It simplifies the uses of the square by fastening the gauge at the base and rise for the desired pitch. (See figs. 25 and 26.) A gauge or fence is easily made by taking a I"x2"x2' 42 I RAFTER xty FIG. 25 piece of wood, rip edgewise 18'', and with a couple of screws, clamp the square at 12" hase and the desired rise, then lay the FIG. 26 gauge on the edge of the rafter, mark for rise, and check mark at base ; move the rise to the check mark and recheck as many times as there are base feet in the rafter. (See fig. 27.) Cry <;:--v- v «""«-^ FIG. 27 43 Where there is a fraction of a base foot, take the number of inches on the base at right angle, and move the square the frac- tional foot, 6", and mark as in former di- rections. (See fig. 28.) FIG. 28 THE SQUARE It is important to understand the use of the square. The base, rise and hypotenuse of the square used in the different methods herein given solve the practical use of the square. Every inch to 8'^ rise, with 12" base, gives 8 different cuts on either of the three lines, and 8 different pitches of roof. It also gives eight cuts for braces, brackets, bridging and truss framing. In roof fram- ing, the hypotenuse is the pitch of the roof and the length of the rafter in one base foot. (See fig. 29.) Any cut in framing 44 i I I I JLJ. ..'^y* f IQ. 29 may be obtained with 12'' base and the re- quired number of inches rise. There may be a hundred or more different rises from the base and every one is a square root, or geometrical problem, but can be worked out with the square in a practical way without the knowledge of either square root or geometry. COMMON RAFTER 'There are as haany base feet in a common rafter as there are feet in half the width of the gable, or half the width of the building in a hi^ roof; (See figr 21.) 45 The length of a common rafter in one base foot is equal to the hypotenuse of the base and rise and can be obtained by meas- uring from the base to the given rise. (See fig. 29.) This is true with 12" base and any number of inches rise. (See fig. 15.) Then lay the square at 12" base and the given rise as many successive times as there are base feet in the rafter to obtain the length of the rafter. (See figs. 30 and riKXt. CUT FIG. 30 32.) Mark on the base for the plate cut and on the rise for the ridge out. (See figs. 29, 30 and 32.) Where there is a ridge board used shorten the rafter half the thick- ness of the ridge. For an extension of the rafter over the plate for eave, and two or more inches left on the rafter for support, measure down perpendicularly from the spacing for the plate mark to the bottom of the rafter. Draw a line parallel with the rafter, 2" from the top edge. Set the 46 square to where the two lines intersect, use the base for the plate cut, and the perpen- FIG. 31 47 dicular line, down, for the outside cut of the plate. (See fig: 31, ) The distance marked down from the top edge of the rafter does" not change the length of the rafter. The top has the same angle, but raises the rafter and ridge the height of the thickness of the heel or support in outer line of plate. (See fig. 31.) THE JACK RAFTER -^ There are as many base feet iii a -Jack rafter as there are number of feet on the plate from the corner to the center of the rafter. (See fig^^ 21.) The base 12" and the same rise used in the common rafter laid on the rafter as many successive times as there jire base feet to meet the hip rafter, gives the length of the Jack rafter. (See fig. 30.) ;.Mark on the base for the plate cut, and 6n the rise for the perpen- dicular cut to meet the hip rafter. (See fig. 35.) Where a heel of -support is let on see fig. 31. ;^ The face or angular cut to meet tlie hip varies with the pitcb and every V^rise. To obtain the angular cut to meet the hip, take the number of inches in the hypotenuse 748 pr the length of rafter in one base foot of the common rafter. (See fig. 33.) Taking the length of the hypotenuse H YPOT E. N U S El 14- /a -^ ^ ^ i I I M M I I i M^l I 1 I 1 I M 1 I I FIG. 33 \Z AHD \A% AMGULAR CUT TT" '''''«'''« i i <«'''«'«'' ' ~ I4'4 FIG. 34 4!) (141/2") with the base (12") on the square instead of the rise (see fig. 34), and mark back on the length of the hypotenuse 14%" r I U* 00 ^ ^\HGULAR COT 12" AMD H/x for the angular cut. (See fig. 35.) This rule is reliable in any pitch of roof. CRIPPLE RAFTERS There are as many base feet in a cripple rafter as there are number of feet on the plate from the corner of the hip to the cor- ner or center of the valley rafter. (See rules for base, fig. 21.) To obtain the length of a cripple rafter, lay the square on the rafter at the base and rise of the common rafter as many succes- sive times as there are base feet in the rafter. (See figs. 30 and 32.) Mark on 50 the rise for the hip and valley cuts. To obtain the face cut to meet the hip rafter, use the same rule given for the jack rafter that meets the hip. (See fig. 35.) For the lower cut of the cripple rafter to meet the valley use the same rule as for the face cut to meet the hip, only reverse the angular cut by marking across the rafter, and cut parallel to the hip cut. (See fig. 36.) AHGLt CUT REVERSED \ ^ FIG. 36 HIP RAFTER There are as many base feet of 17" as there are number of feet in half, the width of the building. (See rules for base of rafters, fig. 21.) To obtain the length of a hip rafter, lay the square on the rafter at 51 17''' base and the rise of the common rafter as many successive times as there are base feet in the hip rafter. (Fig. 37.) Mark on ^J^^^ M«P «^^FTtR FOR \0 BA5t fT. ^ no. 37 the base for the plate cut and on the rise for the plumb cut to meet the ridge. (Fig. 40.) For the angular cut to meet the ridge, «b \% s% no. 38 52 take the number of inches in the hypotenuse of the base and rise of the hip rafter in one base foot (fig. 38), using this hypotenuse to mark on instead of the rise (fig. 39), with the i 171 FIG- 39 CO V) D r ttj a. >- HIP \ND VALLIY^n'n ,^^ PLUMS CUT \7 AMD 6 AHGULXR CUT \7 AND 18^ 53 base (17'0 ou the square and mark on the length of the hypotenuse for the angular cut. (Fig. 40.) Take % of the base and hypo- tenuse where required. This rule is reliable in any pitch. At the base of the hip rafter cut off %" to lower the corners to line of comon and jack rafters, or saw %" or more, depending on pitch of roof, plumb down across the cor- ner. (See fig. 41.) CUT OFF %" Fl(i.4l ADD Ve** FIG. 42 VALLEY RAFTERS There are as many base feet in a valley rafter as there are number of feet in I/2 the width of the gable. (Fig. 21.) To obtain the length of a valley rafter, lay the square on the rafter at 17'' base and the rise of the common rafter, as many successive times as there are base feet to be spanned. (P'ig. 37.) Mark on the base for the plate 54 cut and on the rise for the perpendicular cut to meet the ridge. The angular cut, to meet the ridge, is the same rule given for the hip rafter. (Fig. 40.) Mark %'' lower than the base mark for the base cut to raise the center of the rafter to line with common rafters. (See fig. 42.) TO SHEATH A ROOF Line the bottom board with the face of the rafters. It is rulable to space them 2" to 4'' apart and continue this method until sheeting is completed. At the gable ends of the building, let the sheeting extend over the rafters the desired width of the plancier or eave. To cut sheething boards to meet the hip or valley, take the hypotenuse of the base FIG. 43 55 and rise of the common rafter with the base, and mark on the base for the hip and val- ley cut. (Fig. 43.) For the plumb cut of the sheeting boards for a hip and valley, take the length of the hypotenuse of the base 17" and rise of the hip rafter with the rise and mark on the rise for the plumb cut. (Fig. 44.) PLUMB FKj. 44 The rules for cutting sheeting in valleys is used to cut eave and plancier boards that meet in an angle. OUTSIDE FINISH The outside finish consists of facier, plan- cier, frieze, corner, base boards and moulds. The facier board is the finish around the outer edge of the roof. (Fig. 45.) The plancier board is the finish from the facier to the building. The frieze is the finish on the wall under the plancier and laps over 56 the siding. The corner boards are the finish around the corners. The base board extends around the bottom of the building, with a drip cap placed on the top edge on FIG. 45-A • 57 which to start the siding. The crown mould extends around the outside of facier. The bed mould is placed in the angle of the frieze and plancier. FIG. 45-B Line up and saw the heels of the rafters for the facier board and let the facier ex- tend above the rafters enough to receive the sheeting, and extend %" below the plan- cier. Nail a block under the sheeting of the gable to lower the plancier for a %" margin on the facier for rake or box cor- nice. (Fig. 45.) 58 A box cornice returns square from the facier to the building, the plancier is sup- ported with a lookout, nailed to the rafter and back to the wall. (Fig. 45b.) Rabbit the frieze board or furrow it out to lap on the siding. Put a bed mould in the angle of the plancier and frieze. The style in fig. 45b is called a box cornice. There are different styles of cornice, but we w411 not go into details of all the styles, but will only refer to , some of them. Some ceil the plancier under the rafter and break square around the corner for the gable plancier. This style is called ^'Rake Cor- nice." Some ceil on top of the rafters with 13/16'' ceiling instead of sheathing for the finish, allowing the rafters to be exposed. At the gable let the ceiling or sheeting ex- tend from the rafter to the facier, breaking joints on the first and second rafters. Place the corner and frieze boards on the sheath- ing when lap siding is used. Where rustic siding is used place the corners and frieze boards over the rustic. Where a base board and drip cap is used, place them on before the corner boards and siding. Paper all outside walls before siding, and 59 place . strips of paper under the finish that will extend for a lap of the wall paper. TO SHINGLE A ROOF Nail a shingle at each end of eave to be shingled and let them extend 1%'^ or the desired distance over the sheeting for the drip. Put a shingle nail in the end of the shingles and draw a line taut across the eaves. Then lay a double row of shingles to this line, being careful not to allow the shingles to move the string out of line. Leave about 1/16'^ between line and shin- gles to prevent this. Measure up from the lower edge of shin- gles 414'' or 5'\ according to pitch of roof, for second row, and strike a chalk line for 3 rows. Shingle and continue this method until roof is covered (fig. 45), putting two nails %" from the edge in a shingle. You may use a straight edge to lay the shingles by, moving it up for each row. An expert shingler usually uses a gauge on his shingle hatchet, and lines with chalk and line every sixth row instead of using the straight edge or former method. Let shingles project 60 over the gable facier or mould 13/16'' of an inch. To cut a valley shingle to fit the valley or hip, take the hypotenuse of the base and rise of the common rafter with the base, 12", and mark on the length of the hy- potenuse. (Pig. 35.) This rule is reliable for hip or valley shingles. The end of the shingle cut from the valley will make a hip shingle. Do not have two cracks directly over each other. Keep them ll^'' apart for a good roof. Chalk line the valleys to lay the shingles in line, leaving 2i/^'' valley between the shingles. It is advisable to have the top of valley %'' narrower than the bottom. The valley tin 14'' wide, laps over and down. To estimate the number of shingles for a roof, take the length of rafters and the projection of the gable and find the number of square feet in the roof. For 4%" to the weather it will take 9 shingles to the square foot; then 9 times the number of square feet is the number of shingles required, and other widths in proportion. 61 DOOR AND WINDOW FRAMES Most frames are made at the planing mills, but when it is more convenient to build them, the following suggestions will be helpful. For a door or window, rabbet across the side jambs %'' for the head jamb and sill. Cut the head jamb and sill %" longer than the width of sash or door, for the gain or rabbet in the jambs. (Fig. 46.) <1 A- S 1 N G I j«r-5TOf» -JAMB.- 5 I LL CASINO — REBME— f^ VIMDOV Fli/kME l^'BCJ JAMB FIG. 47 FIG. 46 The jamb must be made wide enough to extend %'' inside of the studding for the thickness of the lath and plaster. Let 2^' horns on the outside of sill to set the easing on, and for any projection desired. Casing to be soft wood. Add %" more to the length of the door frame than the height of the door. The window jamb should be plowed y^!' or %'' for the parting stop, 2%" from the outside of the jamb for 13/8^' windows, and 13/16'' stop. Set the pulley down from the top 3I/2". Cut a pocket 4'' from the bottom to a height of 10'' to 12" to admit the weights. Cut the pocket on a 60 degree angle and fasten with two screws at the bottom and one at the top. (See fig. 46.) TO SET DOOR AND WINDOW FRAMES Cut a pole 1/^" longer than the height of the door, adding the thickness of the fin- ished floor. Set the pole under the head jamb of the window for height of frame. Level and plumb the frame at this height and fasten in place. PORCH Line and nail a 2x4 on the joists or sheething the thickness of the porch floor- ing lower than the door sill, the length of 63 the porch, less the thickness of the headers. Cut the headers the length of the width of the porch, nail and square to the 2x4 nailed on the wall joists. Measure the length of the joists between the headers, next to the wall, and place them the desired distance apart. (16 to 24''.) Make the frame 3" shorter than the floor boards. Slope the frame to the front about 1'' to every 6' for drain. Lay the floor two inches over the side of the frame. Line and cut the front the same as the sides to extend over the frame for facier board and cove. Locate the posts, deduct the depth of the beam from the height of the ceiling for the length of the posts, adding the drop of the porch floor. Build the beam for the support of the porch roof that rests on top of the posts of 2'' plank or boards. Then place the joists for the ceiling 2' or more apart the same way the floor joists run. (Fig. 48.) The ceiling usually runs the same as the floor. Cut the rafters the desired pitch and style of roof, allowing for facier. Sheath and shingle same as main roof. Lo- cate the height of the top rail; keep the 64 bottom rail 2i/^'' from the floor and the side rails level, not following the slope of floor. Take the space between the rails, for the length of spindle, and the distance be- tween posts for the length of rail, making allowance for fitting. Ceil the ceiling of the porch and put a cove in the angles of the ceiling and under the outer edge of the floor, a crown mould around the facier, and a bed mould in the angle of plancier and frieze. .Door sill 2^« FI0?48 LATHING The lath should be spaced 5/16'^ apart to admit the plaster for a good clinch, breaking joints every ninth lath. Put grounds around the inside door openings %'' thick by V wide. Plumb and straight edge them and gauge them the same width 65 in all door openings, or, when the lathing is done, nail a lath around the face of door openings, to gauge the thickness of plaster. Plumb, straighten, and gauge the same thickness as the width of the former grounds, %'' for lath and plaster. FINISH FLOORS Lin'e and nail the first board perfectly straight. Lay and nail all other flooring tight. Where the flooring board does not extend the length of the room, have at least two boards, between each joint on the same joist. Blind nail pine flooring with 7d nails. For hard floor, use 6d casing nails, and for %'' flooring use 4d casing or finish nails. To finish pine floors, plane the un- even edges, then scrape and sand. Cut all hard wood floors to an even surface with a cabinet or floor scraper, sandpaper length- wise of the floor to a smooth finish with No. 1 and No. sandpaper. INSIDE FINISH The inside finish consists of door jambs, casings, head trimmers, base, window stool, aprons, stops, picture mould, closet strips, 66 doors, windows, etc. Scrape and sand out all defects and plane marks before putting finish in place. Straighten and gauge the door jambs the thickness of the partition or walls. Cut a gain %'' for the head jamb and cut the head jamb %'^ longer than the width of the door for the gains. Measure down from the head jamb y^'^ more than the length of door. (Example — for a 6' 6'' door, make the jamb 6' 6%''.) Square the jamb at this length and when put in place, keep it up the thickness of the finish floor. Fit the window stools between the jambs, leave 1/16'' between stool and sash. Let the inside projection of stool extend over the outer edge of the casing the distance between the front edge of the stool to the face of casing. Case the double hung win- dows flush with the jambs. Case doors or easement windows 5/16" back from the edge of the jamb, around the opening. Dotted lines around the door (fig. 49) rep- resent casing. Cut the apron the length of the outer line of casing. Cope or mitre the ends and fit it under the stool in line with the casing. Cut the approximate length of the base <--1 PICTURE MOULD I 3TOP— »■ «j* THIS KEIom yf FOR A _l DOIJBIE-KOM ^ WINDOW fPIMISH TLOOR FIG. 49 boards for each room. When finished in the natural or stained, select the grain to match in each room. With spacing rods get the length of base board needed for each wall. Cope the corner and fit to cas- ing or base blocks. Cut the door and win- dow heads flush with the outside edge of the casing. When there is a fillet used, let the fillet extend over the outer edge of cas- ing %'\ To get the length of picture mould, use spacing rods, then cope the cor- ners and place them %^^ from the ceiling, or it may be placed in line with the top of window and door heads. The regulation 68 height for closet strips is 5i/^^ For door stops, cut the head stop between the jamb and cope the side stops to the head stop and cut the bottom square to fit the floor. For window stops, use same method as for door stops, allowing 1/16'' between stop and sash. Straighten and square the back edge of the door to be hinged, set it in the open- ing flush with the jamb on the hinged side. Mark the front and top flush with the jamb, then rip and plane to the line, bev- eled back 1/16''. When properly fitted, will have nearly 1/16" space on top and sides of the door. Set the door in place and mark with a knife for the hinges 7" from the top for the upper edge of the top hinge and 11" from the floor for the bottom end of lower hinge. If there is a third hinge used, divide the space between the top and bottom hinges. It is practical to make a pole with those markings to have all door hinges set the same. For sash and casement windows, fit the hinged side and bottom, then mark the front and top to jambs. For double-hung windows, fit. the top sash and put it in 69 place, then plane off the sides of the bottom sash the proper width and set in place. Set a compass the width the top rail of the bottom sash extends above the rail of the top sash, and mark with the compass the bottom rail of the lower sash to fit the sill. Set a bevel square the angle of the sill, mark across, and rip on those lines. CASES AND CUPBOARDS Lay the outline of cupboard or case on the wall by marking height and where shelves are desired. These markings or heights can be made on a pole or gauge to get height where it is inconvenient to mark on the wall. Lay out the width and depth of cupboard on the floor. Space the width of doors, casings, drawers, crossbars, head, base, etc. Use casing the thickness of the cupboard doors. Cupboards should extend from the floor to the ceiling, making a short door at the top for a storage shelf. Dotted lines (fig. 50) represent shelves. Make the draw fronts of 13/16'' boards, rabbet the end %" deep and the width of the sides of the draw, allowing for the front to lap over the opening %""to- close the 70 crack, then plow the sides and front %'' above the bottom, %'' wide for the draw bottom. (Fig. 50.) TctikiMa ' TROMT 51 Dt u bKCK — a 5tCTION ■" "" ' ^^ HOOR ORAWtR" 1 1 Dl LM - DETAIL OF DRAWERS FIG. 50 STAIRS Stair framing is figured by run and rise and is not computed by base feet, as in nearly all construction. The run of the step is the horizontal or tread line and the rise is the perpendicular or rise line. We must determine the number of treads and rises for the span of the stair. Cut a pole the length from the top of the finish floor below to the top of the finish floor above. With a compass space the desired number of rises in the stair. There is one less run 71 than rise in laying out the stair. Plumb from the header above to the floor below. Allow 11/4'' for finish, and measure back the length of the run of one tread as many times as there are number of runs in the stair. (Fig. 51.) Where there is a certain amount of space for the stair, divide the same with the com- pass for the number of runs required, one less than the number of risers. The tread is 1^4 '' wider than the run for nosing. The finish rise is the same width of the rise of the stringer. (Fig. 52.) Ex- sub FLOOR FIG. 52 ample: The height from finish floor below the top of finish floor above is 9' 4'', or 112". Keep as close to 7'' rise as possible, where there is room for the run. There are 16 rises, 112^16=7'' rise. 73 Where there is space, make the run 10''' for a 11%,'' tread. To locate the header of opening, find the number of runs and rises in the stair as described, and locate the first rise. The plumb line between the rear header and stair tread should be 6' 8'' to 7'. The. ceiling is 8' 6'', the third riser is 21^' high, the distance between the third rise and ceiling is 6' 9''. Plumb up from the third rise for the header of the opening. (See fig. 51.) Lay the square at 10'' run and 7" rise on the stringer to be cut out, as many times as there are runs and rises in the stair. Cut off the bottom of the first rise the thickness of the finished tread. Nail this stair horse on the finish stringer 3" from the top edge to the point of rise and run to support the rise and tread. Cut out of finish stringer at the top that rests on the floor, the thickness of the tread and cut the top and bottom of the finish stringer to meet the base with mitred joint. (Fig. 51.) Take the width of opening and deduct the thickness of stringers for the length of the tread, straighten and square a tread for a pattern to mark all other treads and rises, using a knife point to do all marking. 74 Nail the risers and treads in firmly. If the one side is exposed, allow for an out- side finish string. There are different methods to build stairs. The treads and risers may be housed in the finished stringer and wedged and glued. All stairs are fig- ured on the method described, whether two or more risers and runs. Any one wishing to make a specialty of stairs work can ob- tain books especially for stairs. GARAGE Locate, stake and establish the grade. Then level, line and square as described in the fore part of the book. (See index for same.) Set the forms for the concrete wall, setting bolts in the concrete and let extend 2^2 '' above the wall to bolt sills in place. The wall should be 2'' or more above the finished floor. Leave an opening in the ce- ment floor 2^x5', directly under the engine and transmission, fill the pit with sand to absorb all grease that may drop. When it becomes too oily shovel out and replace with clean sand, and there will be no pans and oily floors to clean. Lay the sills and space them for the studding. Cut plates the dimension of the building over the sills and space the same as sills. Lay out the door and window openings. Cut the studs 8', less the thick- ness of the sill and the plate. Nail the studs on the plate, raise and nail to the sill. Brace and plumb the corners, double the plates, and tie the building the way the rafters span. Put braces above on the plate diagonally near the corners, to keep the front end plumb. Double 2x6 and set edgewise across the front for ties and head- ers over the doors. Notch out to lower the top even with plate. Cut the rafters for the desired pitch. (See rules on rafters.) Board the sides and leave openings for door and windows. Sheath and sihingle as de- scribed. (See rule for shingling.) Put on outside finish. Place the door cleats across the opening for front doors. Notch the side to set the cleat back the thickness of door boards, so the doors will set flush with the casing. The casing to be set back on the siding i^" for stop. Cut the boards the proper length 76 and build the doors in place. Brace and hinge before opening them. The dotted lines (fig. 53) represents ties and braces on the top plate. ^^^ oil. PIT // l-.-.-lV- / 1 ^^ '\ 1 ^^^k 7 / / ^ _ J" \_ _ _ _ J /> ^ ^\ FIO- 53 CORN CRIB The modern corn crib should be planned and constructed with the conveniences to conserve labor. Handling corn in ear or shelled will be no more the burden of the farm if properly planned. 77 In the construction of this building you can locate, stake, find grade, level and square the building as described and illus- trated in this book and with the rules for the use of the square, you can make any cut. (See rules covering same.) The dimen- sions of the crib is 28'x40'. The walls are 8" thick and 12^' above the driveway floor. Con- cave the top of the wall to anchor the floor slab. The footings and wall to extend in the ground 18'^, and at both ends of the drive- way put footings 18'^ deep to prevent rats from burrowing under the floors. (See fig. 54.) The floor slab for the cribs are 6" thick, crowned in the center 2" and extend over the wall V^ for drip. Place iron sock- ets in the concrete slab, when poured, 2' on center lined and leveled for the support of the studdings. The cement floor for the driveway is 5'' thick and should be mixed. Five shovels of sand to 1 shovel of cement for solid floor. The dimension lumber for building, outside studs, 2''x6''xl4'. Inside studs 2''x8'^xl4', double plate, with same di- mension; 2''x8'' ties under the plates every 4'. Nailed to the studs and plates. Cross joists for bin 2^^x8" every 2\ ties under bin 78 2^'x8''' every 2'. Ties and cross ties in crib V^xS^\ The studs above the inside plates 2^'x6'^ Perline plates 2''x6''. Rafters 2''x6'^ 16' bin at both ends, leaving 8' opening above between the bins in center for elevator. Board the bottom and side of the bin with matched flooring. Sheet and shingle (see rule for same). Use bats and drop siding for the outside wall. Matched flooring for doors. Board off a space 6' wide the width of crib and 7' high for engine room. Put slides along the length of the crib to let the corn out for shelling. Set sheller by the elevator, to elevate the corn to the bins from the sheller. Begin in the fore part of this book and demonstrate every rule and diagram. This will enable you to make any cut required for this building. (Fig. 54.) HEN HOUSE Poultry raising is one of the commercial pursuits of the day. The care and shelter of the hen is absolutely necessary. The hen house herein described is 12'xl6'. r^-l ROOST ROOM la* ' 2 1 r J / / / o \ 1 \ i / — GA.BI.C R — - N K-4 rx. -. I-- ~ - 5^ I« rr. - e -- - H k- - ^ _i. FIG. 60 The gable is 16', located in the center of 86 one side of the building. The length of the ridge is % the width of the gable or 8' to meet the main roof. The difference in the height of the gable ridge and the ridge of the hip roof is l^ the difference between the width of the gable, 16', and the width of the main building, 20', or 2'. The valley rafter extends from the mark on the plate for the width of the gable, to the 8' mark on the ridge. (Fig. 60.) Spac- ing the rafters 2' on center. There are five common rafters in the main roof. They extend from the plate to the ridge. There are 28 jack rafters, that extend from the plate to the hip rafter. There are 4 cripple rafters that extend from the valley rafter to the hip rafter and 1 cripple rafter that extends from the gable ridge to the ridge of the hip roof. The two gable rafters that extend from the plate to the ridge are com- mon rafters. Cut off lower ends of gable rafters 14 thickness of valley rafter on same bevel as cripple rafters. There are six cripple rafters in the gable that extend from the valley to the ridge. (See fig. 13.) Begin at the corners and space the raft- ers 2' on center. Measure from the corner 87 23" and 25'^ for the space of the first rafter and continue to space 2' from these marks. Follow this method around the building except the 16' span of the gable. Space the ridge of the gable 2' center, the same as the plate. Let the gable ridge extend 1%'' longer than the 8' mark to meet the valley rafter cut. Space the ridge of the main roof to correspond with the space on the plate. Allow 1^/4'' extension at both ends of the 4' ridge to meet the hip rafter, the center of the hip rafter to line with the 4' mark. Draw the rafters from plate to ridge, plate to hip, valley to hip and valley to ridge. (Fig. 60.) All roofs are laid out with this method. Draw an outline of the roof before cutting the rafters and check the rafters on the plat as you cut them to know where you left off cutting and where to begin. It is practical to fasten a pair of gauges on the square at 12" base and the given rise to space and cut the rafters. It is as ^asy to cut a roof with 3", 5", 7"', or any other rise as it is with 8" in this roof. Observe the methods. The common rafters have 10 base feet, 1/2 the width of the main roof. (Fig. 88 60.) Lay the square o]i the rafter at 12^' base and 8'' rise. Mark on the rise for the ridge cut, and make a check mark at 12'^ base. Move the rise of the square to this check mark and re-check as before ten suc- cessive times for the length of the common rafter. Then mark on the base for the plate cut. (Fig. 32.) Shorten the rafter at the top one-half the thickness of the ridge. There are as many base feet in a jack rafter as there are num- ber of feet on the plate from the corner to the center of the rafter. They are usually in pairs of the same length. Reverse the cuts on one to make a pair of right and left cuts. There are four pairs of jack rafters of the first length. They are 2' from the corner and have two base feet. Lay the square on the rafter at 12'^ base and 8'^ rise, two successive times. For the length of the rafter, mark on the base for the plate cut and on the rise for the perpendicular cut to meet the hip rafter. If a heel and extension is left on see rule for same. For the angular or face cut to meet the hip, take the number of inches from 12^' base to 8'' rise, which is nearly 141/2 '' on the 89 square instead of the rise with 12'' base. Lay the square on the top edge of the rafter at 12'' base and I4I/2" at the plumb line and mark back from the perpendicular line on the 14^/^". This method is true in any pitch. (Fig. 35.) Take the pattern and make four dupli- cate rafters of the reverse cut. Take one of the four and make three duplicate raft- ers with the opposite cut the same as pat- tern and you have four pairs of rafters. There are four pairs of the second jack rafter. They are 4' from the corner and have 4 base feet. Follow directions for length and cut of first pair. The third rafter is 6' from the corner and has six base feet. There are three pairs and will require the square laid at the base and rise 6 suc- cessive times. For the length, use the same method as in the first pair for length and cut. There are three pairs of the fourth jack rafter. They are 8' from the corner and have 8 base feet. Follow the same method as former pairs. By marking back from the regular spacing or perpendicular line, the center of the jack rafter will be short- ened enough for the thickness of the hip. 90 The cripple rafter that extends from the valley rafter to the hip rafter has 4 base feet, the number of feet on the plate from the corner at the hip to the angle or center of the valley. Lay the square on the rafter at 12" base and 8" rise four successive times for the length of the cripple rafter. Mark on the rise for the perpendicular line for top and bottom to meet the hip and valley. Square across the rafter at the check mark for the valley and make the plumb line on the opposite side from the hip line. The angular cut is obtained the same as for the jack rafter. The valley cut to be reversed on opposite side from the hip, the cuts running parallel. (Figs. 35 and 36.) The two gable rafters are common. They have eight base feet, % the number of feet in the width of the gable. (Refer to rule given for common rafter.) There are three pairs of cripple rafters that extend from the valley to the gable ridge. Every foot out on the ridge from the center of the valley at the intersection of valley and ridge lengthens the cripple rafter one base foot. The first pair of cripple rafters are 91 set out 2' and have 2 base feet. The sec- ond pair is set out 4' and has 4 base feet. The third pair is set out 6^ and has 6 base feet. (Fig. 21.) Lay the square at 12'' base and 8'' rise as many times as there are base feet in the rafter for the length. Mark on the rise for the ridge cut, and down on the rise for the perpendicular cut to meet the valley. The face cut to meet the valley. See rule for cripple rafter to meet the val- ley rafter. The cripple from the gable ridge to the ridge of the main building. Sets in 2' on the ridge from the hip and has two base feet. Obtain the length by laying the square at 12'' base and 8" rise two successive times and cut square to rise as for ridge cuts. The base for the hip and valley rafter is 17". (Fig. 16.) The hip rafter has 10 base feet, % the width of the building. Then 17" base and 8" rise laid on the rafter 10 successive times gives the length of the hip rafter. Mark on the base for the plate cut and on the rise for the perpendicular cut to meet the ridge. The 'face cut to meet the ridge, take the num- ber of inches from 17" base to 8" rise, which is nearly 18%" with 17" base and 92 mark on the 18%'' for the angular cuts. This rule is good in any number of inches rise. There are as many base feet of 17'' in the valley as there are number of feet in % the width of the gable. If the gable is 16' there are 8 base feet in the valley. Lay the square at 17" base and 8" rise, eight successive times for the length. Mark on the base for the plate cut and on the rise for the plumb cut to meet the ridge. The angular cut is the same as used in the hip rafter. TRUSS FRAMING Truss framing is figured with the base 12" and any rise to meet the objective point. The rules given in rafter framing will give any cut in truss framing, by rais- ing and lowering the rise, the hypotenuse is the length of brace in one base foot. Truss (fig. 61) is 16' long, 4' 6" high. The outside braces have 3% base feet and 3^ 6" rise. There are as many inches rise to one base foot as there are number of inches in the rise divided by the number of base feet. Thus, 3' 6"=42"-by 31/2 base feet=12" rise to one base foot. The inside brace has 3 93 base feet and 2^ 10'' rise equals 34'' rise -^ by 3 base feet. = 11 1/3" rise to one base foot. The length of brace is 12" base and 11 1/3" rise laid on the timber three suc- cessive times. Mark on the base at top and bottom, add the seat of brace, beyond those marks in the proportion of 4" to 12". (See fig. 61.) FIG. 61 There are 1" iron rods with plates that extend from the top beam at the corner through the bottom beam. Where the out- side brace is seated an iron clamp or stirrup laps over the bottom and is bolted to the beam. The beam is three thicknesses of 2"xl2". Truss No. 2 is 20' span with 12" rise to 1 base foot. See rule for common rafters for length and cut of main or outside raft- 94 ers. Place a cross tie from the plate to the opposite rafter 1/3 the distance down from the point of rafter to the plate. Put a horizontal tie up 1/3 the length of the rafter from the plate, and a tie from the ridge to the bottom tie, spiked between cross ties and at bottom. (See fig. 62.) FIG. 62 J Truss No. 3 spans 20', 3" rise to one base foot. See rule for common rafters for length and cut. Tie from ridge to cross tie. Place a brace from the center of No. a FI165 95 through tie to I/2 way up the rafter, and a perpendicular tie from the center of the rafter to the cross tie. Trusses No. 2 and No. 3 are used mostly in roof construction. PRACTICAL HINTS To divide a board in 2 or more equal parts, lay the rule across at any number that will give 2, 3 or more equal parts and mark and line for same, and there will be no fractional parts to figure. (Fig. 64.) To cut a mitre take the square at 12'' and 12'' or any other equal number of inches on the square. (To cut a mitre see fig. 65.) To cope a mould or board cut an inside mitre and cut out the face of the mitre with a coping saw and the cope will fit the mould at right angle, also set a compass 96 the proper width, hold in the same angle as you mark down, and cnt to mark. (Pig. 66.) Fid. 65 CUT OOTj fcOPEP ^ F10.66-A Fl(j.66 To cope a board to an uneven surface, set the board plumb and scribe with a pencil compass, from top to bottom, holdinc^ the compass at the same angle. 97 STRAIGHT EDGE A straight edge to level walls and build- ings should be made of li/g'^xS^xie' of edge grain lumber to prevent warping. Straighten the bottom of the straight edge. Measure to the center of the board and from this mark measure 18'' on either side. From this point draw a line to the end 41/^" from the bottom and up the taper line and gauge the same width from the bottom in the center of the board to the tapered lines. Cut a handhold in the center ll^'' wide by 4'' long, leaving li/^'' on the top edge. Set a true level on the top edge. Level the board, reverse the straight edge on the same bearings, if the bulb centers the straight edge is true, if not, plane off the high point on the top edge until it reverses the same. The plumb straight edge should be 4%" wide and the length of the height of upper plate. Put a % block on each end to keep the board clear from any timber that may be bowed. Make perfectly straight, and see the ends measure the same width. The straight edge to set the jambs, line cabinet work, etc., straighten and gauge the same width the entire length. That in 98 straightening a jamb, it can be plumbed at the same time. To test a straight edge, lay- it on the floor, draw a line reverse the board end to end, draw another line. If the lines are parallel, the edge is straight, if not, plain the defects until it reverses the same. (Fig. 68.) 16 ?T LtVtL BOARD PLUMB BOARD L t 5TRAICHT EDGE FIG. 68 TEST A SQUARE Place and fasten a straight edge on a smooth wall or surface, set the square on the straight edge and draw a line the length of the square on the wall. Reverse the square to the opposite side of the line and draw another line. If the lines run paral- lel, the square is true, if the lines divide, it is not true. Draw a line centered of the divided lines, and file the edge of the square until it reverses the same. (Fig. 69.) 99 I., i. II III II II II 1 1 III It n 1 FIG. 69 TEST A LEVEL Drive a nail in a smooth even wall, to set one end on. Adjust the other end until the bulb is centered on the glass, and draw a line the length of the level. Eeverse the opposite end of the level on the nail, center the bulb and draw another line. If the lines are parallel, the level is true ; if they divide, it is not true. Take V2 tlie distance of the divided lines and draw a line from this point to the intersection of the lines for the level line, and adjust the level to the center line, and the level will be true. (Fig. 70.) KOT LEVEL FIG. 70 100 2nd. Set4t oii an eveii' surface and ad- just the level until the bulb centers, re- verse the level end to end, if the bulb cen- ters, the level is true; if not, adjust the level until the bulb will come to the same place in reversing the level. (Fig. 70.) PLUMb LIHE-H PLUMB HOT PLUM& FIG. 71 101 Place the plumb on a smooth wall, hold the plumb to center the bulb and draw a line the length of the plumb stock, reverse the plumb to the opposite side of the line and draw a line the length of the plumb, if the lines are parallel, the plumb is true; if the lines divide at one end, it is not true. Make -a mark i/^ the distance between the divided lines and draw a line from this mark to the intersection of the two lines, then adjust the plumb to the center, or plumb line. (Fig. 71.) WORK BENCH A work bench 8' or 10' long, 2' in width and 3' high, or height of thigh joint, makes a convenient bench to move to any room in finishing, and when a longer length is needed, hook on an extension. It should be equipped with a bench screw, and clamp, also with a bench stop on the top, that can be lowered and raised for any thickness of board. The dimension of lumber for the bench, 4 pieces of 2''x4''x3' for the legs, 4 pieces of 2"x4''x2' for top supports. Nailed be- 102 tweeu the side boards. One piece 3x4 hard wood for clamp. Two pieces I''xl2''xl0' for side boards. Two pieces Ii4''xl2''xl0' for top. Four pieces I^^x4''x3' for braces. Straighten the top edge of side boards and outer edge of top to form a straight corner- to work from. (Fig. 72.) WORK. 5tHCH FIG. 72 SAW TRESTLE The height of trestle for the average man is nearly 2^ The top should be made of 2''x6^'x4^ the legs of IVs'^xd'' boards. The bottom of the legs may be tapered V^ nar- rower than the top. Set the legs in from 103 the end 4'^ Notch in the side' for the leg at an angle so the bottom of the legs will be spread 16'' and out in line of the end of the top to brace, endwise. Nail a cross tie on the legs under the top of trestle. Set the trestle on a level floor, and compass and saw the bottom of the legs parallel to the floor. (Fig. 73.) 5AW TRt^TLL FIO. 73 SAWS The length of saw and gauge of tooth for practical purposes: 104 The Rip Saw, 28'' blade, 5 points to V. The Cutoff Saw, 26'' blade, 8 points to 1". The Finish Saw, 22'' blade, 11 points to 1". The Compass Saw% 14" blade, 8 points to 1". Hold the saw at right angle to your body nearly 45 degrees upright; make an even stroke forward with a slight pressure, low- ering the handle and raising the point in shoving forward. To clear the chips and keep cutting the length of stroke, keeping the right eye in line of the saw to see that the saw does not run sideways. Prevent any side motion if possible. SETTING AND FILING SAWS Set every other tooth with the point out, then reverse the saw and set the other side in the same manner. Place the saw in the vise with the teeth as close to the clamp as possible for filing to prevent vibration. File toward the point of the saw, keeping the points the same height and the front edge of the tooth slightly back from perpendic- ular by holding the file at the same angle for all teeth", hold the file back 20 degrees, and upright at nearly 25 degrees; the more the file is angled, the longer the point. Cut the same amount off of each tooth to keep them even. (Fig. 74.) Ky FI0.74 PLANES The planes most commonly used are the 106 jack plane, fore plane, jointer plane, smoothing plane, and block plane. The jack plane is used to cut the rough surface of boards and timbers, and to cut the high places of a board before using the jointer. It is the roust about plane of planes. The fore plane is used to fit sash and doors. It is also used in cutting the uneven edge of a board before using the jointer. The jointer is used to straighten and join boards, and is frequently used instead of the fore plane to fit tHe sash and doors. The smoothing plane is used to surface a board to a smooth surface. Begin planing at the fore end of the board and work back, also at one side and work across. Shove the plane straight forward, not swerving it sideways. In shoving the plane forward near the end of stroke, gradually raise the back end of the plane to raise the bit at end of stroke to prevent any plane marks, and keep it raised high enough to clear the bit in drawing the plane back. Drawing the plane back witfi the weight on the bit dulls it more than the cutting. Those methods should be observed with all planes. The block plane is used to 107 plane the ends of board and mould joints, and in close fitting. The bit should be ground back at 60 degrees, keeping the edge squared to the sides, then finish on an oil stone to a keen edge. (Fig. 76.) P051TIOK TO DRAW BACK. CUTTIMG P051T10K FIG. 76 SCAFFOLD Set 2''x4'^ around the building about 10' apart for upright posts. Nail a clear strong board on the 2x4 at the proper height for the scaffolding. Saw a notch in a short board, or 2x4 the width of the bracket. Nail the block on the bracket and to the building. Put a tie of 1x6 sheeting in line of the brackets to all upright posts, put a cross brace on the uprights, from bot- tom to line of scaffolding, using 2^'xlO'^ or 12'' plank for the scaffolding. High scaff- olding should have heavier upright posts. 108 THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH DAY AND TO $1.00 ON THE SEVENTH DAY OVERDUE. A^ii 24 1933 DEC -45 m. APR 11 1934 MAY 4 1936 AUG 2^^93S SEP 14 ; ,, 5tP ^^ ^*'^ JAN »9 ^94t JUL 23 \m FEB 23 1942 FEB 281948 MAY 5 1948 ^\i't\0? ^<^<^^ C0477b3e53 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY