I 

 
 DAVID LIVINGSTONE, 
 From a Photograph taken by Thomas Annan of Hamilton and Glajgow.
 
 THE'LAST JOURNALS/ 
 
 DAYID LIYINGSTON^/ 
 
 CENTRAL AFRICA, 
 
 FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH. 
 
 (ABRIDGED FROM THK ORIGINAL LONDOK IDITIOK.) 
 WITH A NARRATIVE OP 
 
 HIS LAST MOMENTS AND SUFFERINGS, 
 
 OBTAINED FROM 
 
 HIS FAITHFUL SERVANTS CHUMAH AND SUSI 
 
 BY HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S., 
 
 RECTOR OF TWYWELL, NORTHAMPTON. 
 
 WITH PORTRAIT, MAPS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 "To-day the Englishman is dead, 
 Who has different hair from ours : 
 Come round to see the Englishman." 
 
 PUBLISHED B7 SUBSCRIPTION ONLY. 
 
 HARTFORD, CONN"., 
 
 :R,. w. BLISS <fe 
 
 F. C. BLISS & CO., NEWARK, X. J.: F. DEWING <fc CO., SAN FRANCISCO. CAL. 
 
 1875.
 
 ENTERED according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by 
 
 R. W. BLISS & CO., 
 In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
 
 or 
 
 731 
 
 PUBLISHERS' PREFACE. 
 
 FEW persons familiar with Dr. Livingstone's earlier writings 
 have failed to observe that his books contain considerable 
 matter which, however profitable it may be as a study for 
 embryo explorers, members of Geographical Societies, and 
 persons of various scientific tastes, is dry and uninteresting 
 to people generally ; and it is doubtless true that " THE LAST 
 JOURNALS " of the great traveler, recently published in London, 
 of which this volume is an abridged reprint, is open to the 
 same criticism. Yery few, for example, will care to know 
 that " the strike of large masses of foliated gneiss is parallel 
 with the major axis of the lake," or that the names of the 
 thirty-nine species of fish inhabiting it are "Monde, Mota, 
 Lasa, Kasibe, Molobe, Lopembe," etc., etc. 
 
 In preparing this book the aim has been to retain every- 
 thing necessary to the continuity of the narrative and a full 
 understanding of Dr. Livingstone's travels, adventures, dis- 
 coveries and experiences, and all else which would be likely 
 to interest any considerable portion of intelligent American 
 readers: and it is believed that for them, at least, the 
 Journals lose nothing of their interest or depth of meaning 
 at the compiler's hands. 
 
 In the Introduction to the London edition its Editor says : 
 " In the midst of the universal sorrow caused by the intel- 
 ligence that Dr. Livingstone had lost his life at the furthest 
 point to which he had penetrated in his search for the true 
 sources of the Nile, a faint hope was indulged that some 
 of his journals might survive the disaster: this hope, I. 
 
 716168
 
 X PREFACE. 
 
 rejoice to say, has been realized beyond the most sanguine 
 expectations. We have not to deplore the loss, by accident 
 or carelessness, of a single entry, from the time of Living- 
 stone's departure from Zanzibar in the beginning of 1866, to 
 the day when his note-book dropped from his hand in the 
 village of Ilala at the end of April, 1873. 
 
 "The reader must be warned that, however versed in 
 books of African travel he may be, the very novelty of his 
 situation amongst these pages will render him liable perhaps 
 to a danger which a timely word may avert. Truly it may 
 be said he has an embarras de richessesf To follow an 
 explorer who by his individual exertions has filled up a great 
 space in the map of Africa, who has not only been the first 
 to set foot on the shores of vast inland seas, but who, with 
 the simple appliances of his bodily stature for a sounding 
 pole and his stalwart stride for a measuring tape, lays down 
 new rivers by the hundreds, is a task calculated to stagger 
 him. It may be provoking to find Livingstone busily en- 
 gaged in bargaining for a canoe upon the shores of Bang- 
 weolo, much as he would have secured a boat on his own 
 native Clyde ; but it was not in his nature to be subject to 
 those paroxysms in which travelers too often indite their dis- 
 coveries and description. 
 
 "At the same time these journals will be found to contain 
 innumerable notes on the habits of animals, birds, and fishes, 
 many of them probably new species, and on phenomena in 
 every direction which the keen eye searched out as the great 
 traveler moved amongst some of the grandest scenes of this 
 beautiful world : it may be doubted if ever eye so keen was 
 backed by so much perseverance to shield it from a mere 
 superficial habit of noticing. Let his adventures speak for 
 themselves." 
 
 The Portrait and full-page Engravings in the London 
 Edition have been copied for this book : also, substantially, 
 a map showing the Explorer's routes and discoveries. An- 
 other map showing his earlier travels in Southern Africa has 
 been added.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Arrival at Zanzibar Hearty Reception by Said Majid, the Sultan The 
 Slave-market Preparations for Starting to the Interior Embarkation 
 in H. M. S. Penguin and Dhow Rovuma Bay Impracticable Dis- 
 embarks at Mikindany Joy at Traveling once more Trouble with 
 Sepoys Camels attacked by Tsetse Fly, and by Sepoys Jungle 
 Sappers Meets old Enemies The Makonde Lake Nangandi- . . 19 
 
 CHAPTER H. 
 
 Reminder of Pioneer's former Visit The poodle Chitane Island Encamp- 
 ment Death of Camels and Buffaloes Disaffection of Followers 
 Disputed Right of Ferry Mazitu Raids An old Friend Severe Pri- 
 vations The River Loendi Sepoys Mutiny Matamora Desolation 
 Tattooing Dependent on Carriers Singular Custom Death of the 
 Nassick boy, Richard A sad Reminiscence, 83 
 
 CHAPTER m. 
 
 Horrors of the Slave-trader's Track System of Cultivation Pottery 
 Special Exorcising Death of the last Mule Rescue of Chirikaloma's 
 Wife Brutalities of the Slave-drivers Mtarika's Desperate March 
 to Mataka's Meets Arab Caravans Dismay of Slavers Dismissal of 
 Sepoys Mataka The Waiyau Metropolis Great Hospitality and 
 Good Feeling Mataka Restores stolen Cattle Life with the Chief 45 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Leaves Mataka's Pezimba's Village Native Furnaces Makes for the 
 Lake Nyassa Delight at Seeing the Lake once more The Manganja 
 or Nyassa Tribe Arab Slave Crossing Unable to Procure Passage 
 across The Kungu Fly Fear of the English amongst Slavers Lake 
 Shore Chitane Changes Color Makalaose Drinks Beer Deserted 
 Villages Mukate's Lake Pamalombe Mponda's A Slave Gang 
 Wikatani Discovers his Relatives, and Remains, . . . . 62 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Crosses Cape Maclear The Havildar Demoralized The Discomfited Chief
 
 X CONTENTS. 
 
 Reaches Marenga's Town The Earth-sponge Description of Maren- 
 ga's Town Rumors of Mazitu Musa and the Johanna Men Desert 
 Reaches Kimsusa's His Delight at Seeing the Doctor once more The 
 fat Ram Kimsusa Relates his Eiperience of Livingstone's Advice 
 Chumah Finds Relatives Kimsusa Solves the Transport Difficulty 
 nobly Another old fishing Acquaintance Description of the People 
 and Country on the west of the Lake The Kanthundas Kauma 
 Iron-smelting An African Sir Colin Campbell Milandos, . . . . 72 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 Progress Northwards An African Forest Destruction by Mazitu Native 
 Salutations A disagreeable Chief Extensive Iron-workings An old 
 Nimrod The Bua River Lovely Scenery Difficulties of Transport 
 Sunday at Zeore's An African Pythoness Enlists two Waiyau 
 Bearers HI Rains Set in Arrives at the Loangwa, . . . . . . 86 
 
 CHAPTER VIL 
 
 Crosses the Loangwa Distressing March Bargaining for a Blanket 
 Great Hunger Christmas Feast necessarily Postponed Loss of Goats 
 Honey-hunters A Meal at last The Babisa The Mazitu again 
 Chitimba's A Rain Dance End of 1866 The new Year Meal Gives 
 out A Sunday March Pushes for the Chambeze Death of Chitane 
 Great Pinch for Food Disastrous Loss of Medicine-Chest The 
 Chambeze Suspicious Ferryman Reaches Chitapangwa's Town 
 Meets Arab Traders from Zanzibar Sends off Letters Chitapangwa 
 and his People Complications, 101 
 
 CHAPTER Yin. 
 
 Chitapangwa's parting Oath Course Laid for Lake Tanganyika Moamba's 
 Village The Babemba Tribe HI with Fever Threatening Attitude 
 of Chibue's People Continued Illness Reaches Cliffs overhanging 
 Lake Liemba Extreme Beauty of the Scene Dangerous Fit of Insen- 
 sibility Leaves the Lake Rumors of War between Arabs and Nsama 
 Reaches Chitimba's Village Presents Sultan's Letter to principal 
 Arab, Hamees The War in Itawa Ivory Traders and Slave-dealers 
 Appeal to the Koran Gleans Intelligence of the Wasongo to the East- 
 ward, and their Chief, Merere Hamees Sets out against Nsama 
 Tedious Sojourn Departure for Ponda, 118 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Peace Negotiations with Nsama Reaches the River Lofu Arrives at 
 Nsama's Hamees Marries the Daughter of Nsama Flight of the 
 Bride Conflagration in Arab Quarters Anxious to Visit Lake Moero 
 Arab Burial Serious Illness Continues Journey Slave-traders on 
 the March Reaches Moero Description of the Lake Information 
 concerning the Chambeze and Luapula Hears of Lake Bemba
 
 CONTENTS. Xlll 
 
 Visits Spot of Dr. Lacerda's Death Casembe Apprised of Living, 
 stone's Approach Meets Mohamad Bogharib Lakelet Mofwe 
 Arrives at Casembe's Town, . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Grand Reception of the Traveler Casembe and his Wife Long Stay in 
 the Town Goes to Explore Moero Dispatch to Lord Clarendon, with 
 Notes on recent Travels Illness at the End of 1867 Further Explo- 
 ration of Lake Moero Flooded Plains The River Luao Visits Kab- 
 wabwata Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin Salleh's Freedom Again 111 
 with Fever Stories of Underground Dwellings, . . . . . . 149 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Riot in the Camp Mohamad's account of his long Imprisonment Super- 
 stitions about Children's Teeth Concerning Dreams Life of the Arab 
 Slavers The Katanga Gold Supply Muabo Ascent of the Rua Mount- 
 ains Syde bin Habib Birthday, 19th March, 1868 Hostility of 
 Mpweto Contemplates Visiting Lake Bemba Nile Sources Men 
 Desert The Shores of Moero Visits Fungafunga Return to Casem- 
 be's Obstructiveness of " Cropped-ears " Accounts of Pereira and 
 Dr. Lacerda Major Monteiro The present Casembe Casembe Ex- 
 plains the Connection of the Lakes and the Luapula Queen Moari 
 Arab Sacrifice Kapika Gets rid of his Wife, 162 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Prepares to Examine Lake Bemba Starts from Casembe's llth June, 1868 
 Dead Lion Moenampanda's Reception The River Luongo Weird 
 Death-song of Slaves The Forest Grave Lake Bemba Changed to 
 Lake Bangweolo Chikumbi's The Imbozhwa People Kombokom- 
 bo's Stockade Mazitu Difficulties Discovers Lake Bangweolo on 18th 
 July, 1868 The Lake Chief Mapuni Description of the Lake Pre- 
 pares to Navigate it Embarks for Lifunge Island Immense Size of 
 Lake Reaches Mpabala Island Strange Dream Fears of Canoe-men 
 Return to Shore March back Sends Letters Meets Banyamwezi 
 Reviews recent Explorations at length Disturbed State of Country, 179 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Arrives at the Kalongosi Passage of the River Disputed Halt at Kabwab- 
 wata Syde bin Habib's Slaves Escape Enormous Collection of Tusks 
 111 Theory of the Nile Sources Tribute to Miss Tinne Notes on 
 Climate Muabo's Underground Strongholds Slaves Dying Repent- 
 ant Deserters Mohamad Bogharib Enraged Imbozhwa An Attack 
 Narrow Escape Renewed Attack A Parley Help Arrives Bin 
 Juma March from the Imbozhwa Country Slaves Escape Burial of 
 Syde bin Habib's Brother Singular Custom A Disastrous Ford 
 Christmas Dinners, 195
 
 XIV CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Bad Beginning of the new Year Dangerous Illness Kindness of Arabs 
 Complete Helplessness Arrive at Tanganyika The Doctor is Con- 
 veyed in Canoes Uguhu Kasanga Islet Musical Slaves Reaches 
 Ujiji Receives some Stores Plundering Hands Slow Recovery 
 Writes Dispatches Refusal of Arabs to Take Letters Thani bin 
 Suellim A Den of Slavers Hires a House Letters Sent off at last 
 Contemplates Visiting the Manyuema Arab Depredations Starts for 
 new Explorations in Manyuema, 12th July, 1869 Voyage on the Lake 
 Kabogo River Crosses Tanganyika Evil Effects of last Illness 
 Elephant Hunter's Superstition Dugumbe The Lualaba Reaches the 
 Manyuema Sons of Moenekuss Sokos first Heard of Illness, . . 212 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Prepares to Explore River Lualaba Beauty of the Manyuema Country 
 Irritation at Conduct of Arabs Dugumbe's Ravages Hordes of 
 Traders Arrive Severe Fever Sickness in Camp A good Samaritan 
 Reaches Mamohela and is Prostrated Beneficial Effects of Nyumbo 
 Plant Long Illness All Men Desert except Susi, Chumah and Gard- 
 ner Starts with these to Lualaba Arab Assassinated by outraged 
 Manyuema Returns Baffled to Bambarre Long and dreadful Suffer- 
 ing from ulcerated Feet Questionable Cannibalism Hears of Four 
 River Sources close together Resume of Discoveries The Soko 
 Description of Its Habits Dr. Livingstone Feels Himself Failing 
 Intrigues of Deserters, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. ' 
 
 Footsteps of Moses " A Drop of Comfort " Continued Sufferings A sta- 
 tionary Explorer Consequences of Trusting to Theory Nomenclature 
 of Rivers and Lakes Comes out of Hut for first Time after Eighty 
 Days' Illness Rumor of Letters The Loss of Medicines a great Trial 
 now Return of Arab Ivory Traders Future Plans Thankfulness for 
 Mr. Edward Young's Search Expedition Tedious Delays The Bargain 
 for the Boy Exasperation of Manyuema against Arabs 253 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Degraded State of the Manyuema Longings for Arab Arrivals An Epi- 
 demic The strangest Disease of all ! The New Year Detention at 
 Bambarre Approach of Coast Caravan The Parrots-feather Chal- 
 lenge Murder of James Men Arrive as Servants They Refuse to go 
 North Part at last with Malcontents Receives Letters from Dr. Kirk 
 and the Sultan Doubts as to the Congo or Nile Katomba Presents a 
 young Soko A Rural Scene Forest Scenery Discrimination of the 
 Manyuema Pretty Women They " want to eat a white one " Horri- 
 ble Bloodshed by TTjiji Traders Heartsore and Sick of Blood Ap- 
 proach Nyangwe Reaches the Lualaba, 263
 
 CONTENTS. XV 
 
 CHAPTER XVUL 
 
 The Chitoka or Market Gathering Improvises Ink Builds a new House 
 at Nyangwe on the Bank of the Lualaba Marketing Cannibalism 
 Dreadful Effect of Slaving Tiresome Frustration The Bakuss 
 Feeble Health Busy Scene at Market Unable to Procure Canoes 
 Disaster to Arab Canoes Rapids in Lualaba Project for Visiting 
 Lake Lincoln and the Lomame Offers large Reward for Canoes and 
 Men The Slave's Mistress Alarm of Natives at Market Fiendish 
 Slaughter of Women by Arabs Heartrending Scene Death on Land 
 and in the River Tagamoio's Assassinations Continued Slaughter 
 across the River Livingstone Becomes desponding 280 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Leaves for Ujiji Dangerous Journey through Forest The Manyuema 
 Understand Livingstone's Kindness Kasongo's Stalactite Caves 
 Consequences of Eating Parrots 111 Attacked in the Forest Provi- 
 dential Deliverance Another extraordinary Escape Running the 
 Gauntlet for Five Hours Loss of Property Reaches Place of Safety 
 Ill Mamohela To the Luamo Severe Disappointment Recovers 
 Severe Marching Reaches Ujiji Despondency Opportune Arrival 
 of Mr. Stanley Joy and Thankfulness of the old Traveler Deter- 
 mines to Examine North End of Lake Tanganyika They Start Reach 
 the Lusize No Outlet Return to Ujiji Departure for Unyanyembe 
 with Mr. Stanley Abundance of Game Attacked by Bees Serious 
 Illness of Mr. Stanley Thankfulness at Reaching Unyanyembe, . . 803 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Determines to Continue his Work Proposed Route Refits Robberies 
 Discovered Mr. Stanley Leaves Mteza's People Arrive Tabora 
 Description of the Country The Banyamwezi A Baganda Bargain 
 The Mirambo War The Cat and the Snake Feathered Neighbors 
 Mistaken Notion concerning Mothers Prospects for Missionaries 
 Halima Chumah is Married, 324 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Letters Arrive at Last Sore Intelligence Death of an old Friend Obser- 
 vations on the Climate Arab Caution The Slave Trade and its 
 Horrors Progressive Barbarism Carping Benevolence Geology of 
 Southern Africa The Fountain Sources African Elephants A ven- 
 erable Piece of Artillery Livingstone on Materialism Bin Nassib 
 The Baganda Leave at last Enlists a new Follower, 839 
 
 CHAPTER XXH. 
 
 A Party of Baganda Boys' Playthings in Africa Reflections Arrival of 
 the Men Fervent Thankfulness An End of the weary Waiting 
 Jacob Wainwright Preparations for the Journey Flagging and 111-
 
 XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 ness Great Heat Approaches Lake Tanganyika The Borders of 
 Fipa Capes and Islands of Lake Tanganyika High Mountains 
 Large Bay, 848 
 
 CHAPTER XXIH. 
 
 False Guides Very difficult Traveling Donkey Dies of Tsetse Bites The 
 Kasonso Family A hospitable Chief The River Lofu The Nutmeg 
 Tree Famine 111 Arrives at Chama's Town A Difficulty An Im- 
 mense Snake Account of Casembe's Death The Products of the 
 Babisa Country Reaches the River Lopoposi Arrives at Chitunkue'a 
 Terrible Marching The Doctor is Borne through the flooded Country 
 by his Men, 858 
 
 CHAPTER XXTV. 
 
 Entangled amongst the Marshes of Bangweolo Great Privations Obliged 
 to Return to Chitunkue's At the Chiefs Mercy Agreeably Surprised 
 with the Chief Start once more Very difficult March Robbery 
 Exposed Fresh Attack of Illness Sends Scouts out to Find Villages 
 Message to Chirube An Ant Raid Awaits News from Matipa 
 Distressing Perplexity The Bougas of Bangweolo Constant Rain 
 above and Flood below El Susi and Chumah Sent as Envoys to Matipa 
 Reach Bangweolo Arrive at Matipa's Islet Matipa's Town The 
 Donkey Suffers in Transit Tries to Go on toKabinga's Dr. Livingstone 
 Makes a Demonstration Solution of the Transport Difficulty Susi 
 and Detachment Sent to Kabinga's Extraordinary Extent of Flood 
 Beaches Kabinga's An Upset Crosses the Chambeze The River 
 Muanakazi They Separate into Companies by Land and Water A 
 disconsolate Lion Singular Caterpillars Observations on Fish Coast- 
 ing along the southern Flood of Lake Bangweolo Dangerous State of 
 Dr. Livingstone, . 877 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Dr. Livingstone rapidly Sinking Last Entries in his Diary Susi and 
 Chumah 's additional Details Great Agony in his last Illness Carried 
 across Rivers and through Flood Inquires for the Hill of the Four 
 Rivers Kalunganjovu's Kindness Crosses the Mohlamo into the 
 District of Ilala in great Pain Arrives at Chitambo's Village 
 Chitambo Comes to visit the dying Traveler The last Night Living- 
 stone Expires in the Act of Praying The Account of what the Men 
 Saw Remarks on his Death Council of the Men Leaders Selected 
 The Chief Discovers that his Guest is Dead Noble Conduct of Chitambo 
 A separate Village built by the Men wherein to Prepare the Body 
 for Transport The Preparation of the corpse Honor Shown by the 
 Natives to Dr. Livingstone Additional Remarks on the cause of Death 
 Interment of the Heart at Chitambo's in Ilala of the Wabisa An 
 Inscription and Memorial Sign-Posts Left to Denote Spot, . . . . 403
 
 CONTENTS. XV11 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 They Begin the Homeward March from Ilala Illness of all the Men 
 Deaths Muanamazungu The Luapula The Donkey Killed by a Lion 
 A Disaster at N'kossu's Native Surgery Approach Chawende's 
 Town Inhospitable Reception An Encounter They Take the Town 
 Leave Chawende's Reach Chiwaie's Strike the old Road 
 Wire Drawing Arrive at Kumbakumba's John Wainwright Disap- 
 pears Unsuccessful Search Reach Tanganyika Leave the Lake 
 Cross the Lambalamfipa Range Immense Herds of Game News of 
 East-Coast Search-expedition Confirmation of News They Reach 
 Baula Avant-couriers Sent forward to Unyanyembe Chumah Meets 
 Lieut. Cameron, 419 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 Arrival and Halt of the Caravan at Unyanyembe Firmness of Livingstone's 
 Men Start for the Coast Accompanied by Murphy and Dillon A 
 Clever Stratagem The Natives Deceived Death of Dr. Dillon Killed 
 by a Snake Arrival at Zanzibar Concluding Remarks, . . . . 487 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 DR. LITINGSTOKE'S FUNERAL OBSEQUIES, .. .. 444
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 POBTBAIT OF DB. LIVINGSTONE (Frontispiece) 
 
 EVENING. ILALA. 29re APBIL, 1873 
 
 DB. LIVINGSTONE'S HOUSE AT ZANZIBAB 22 
 
 Duow USED FOR TRANSPORTING CAMELS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 23 
 
 SLAVES REVENGING TIIEIB LOSSES .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 47 
 
 &LAVES ABANDONED .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 53 
 
 FOBGING HOES .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 93 
 
 MANGANJA AND MACHINGA WOMEN .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 94 
 
 CHITAPANQWA RECEIVING DB. LIVINGSTONE .. .. .. .. .. ..109 
 
 Tnx CHIEF CHITAPANGWA .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 115 
 
 CHITAPANGWA'S WIVES .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..116 
 
 THE VILLAGE oir LAKE LIEXBA (TANGANYIKA) 124 
 
 Tint ABBIVALOF HAHKX'B BBIDB 137 
 
 DISCOVERY OF LAKE BANGWEOLO .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..189 
 
 UGUHU HEAD-DRESSES .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..215 
 
 CmjMAii AND Susi. (FROM A PHOTOGRAPH) .. .. .. .. .. .. ..240 
 
 MANTUKMA HUNTEKS KILLING SOKOS .. .. .. .. .. .. ..247 
 
 A DANGEROUS PBIZB .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..267 
 
 THE MASSACRE OF THE MANYUEM A WOMEN AT NYANG WE .. .. .. .. ..296 
 
 THE MANYFXMA AMBUSH .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 806 
 
 LIVINGSTON* BEADING THE BIBLB TO HIS MEN .. .. .. .. .. .. 314 
 
 " THE MAIN STREAM CAME UP TO Susi's MOUTH" 373 
 
 MATIPA AND His WIFE 887 
 
 DB. LIVINGSTONE'S MOSQUITO CUBTAIN 383 
 
 FISH EAGLZ OK HIPPOPOTAMUS TBAP .. .. .. ..396 
 
 THE LAST ENTBY IN DB. LIVINGSTONE'S JOUBNALS 400 
 
 THE LAST MILE OF DB. LIVINGSTONE'S TBAVELS .. .. .. .. .. ..402 
 
 TEXPOBABY VILLAGE IN WHICH DB. LIVINGSTONE'S BODY WAS PBEPABED . . . . 418 
 
 KAWBNDE BUKGBBY 425 
 
 AH OLD SBBVANT DBSTBOYED . . .. .. .. .. .. ..426 
 
 JACOB WAINWBIGHT WITH DB. LIVINGSTONE'S REMAINS AT ADEN 446 
 
 MAP OF CENTBAL AFBIOA, SHOWING DB. LIVINGSTONE'S ROUTES AND DISCOVEBIES . . 18
 
 DR, LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 THE START FOE THE INTERIOR. 
 
 F7ANZIBAR, 28^ January, 1866. After a passage of 
 Lk twenty-three days from Bombay we arrived at this island 
 in the Thide, which was one of Captain Sherard Osborne's 
 late Chinese fleet, and now a present from the Bombay 
 Government to the Sultan of Zanzibar. I was honored with, 
 the' commission to make the formal presentation, and 
 this was intended by H. E. the Governor-in-Council to 
 show in how much estimation I was held, and thereby 
 induce the Sultan to forward my enterprise. The letter 
 to his Highness was a commendatory epistle in my favor, 
 for which consideration on the part of Sir Bartle Frere I 
 feel deeply grateful. 
 
 When we arrived Dr. Seward, the Acting Consul, was 
 absent at the Seychelles on account of serious failure of 
 health. Dr. Seward was expected back daily, and he did 
 arrive on the 31st. I requested a private interview with the 
 Sultan, and on the following day (29) called and told him 
 the nature of my commission to his Highness. He was very 
 gracious, and seemed pleased with the gift, as well he might, 
 for the Thule is fitted up in the most gorgeous manner. 
 We asked a few days to put her in perfect order, and this 
 being the Ramadan, or fasting month, he was all the more 
 willing to defer a visit to the vessel.
 
 20 LIVIXGSTONFS LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Dr. Scward arranged to have an audience with the Sultan, 
 to carry out his instructions, which were to present me 
 in a formal manner ; Captain Bradshaw of the Wasp, with 
 Captain Leathara of the Vigilant, and Bishop Tozer, were 
 to accompany us in full dress, but the Sultan had a tooth- 
 ache and gumboil, and could not receive us ; he, however, 
 placed one of his houses at my disposal, and appointed a 
 man who speaks English to furnish board for my men and 
 me, and also for Captain Brebner, of the Thule, and his men. 
 
 6th February, 1866. The Sultan being still unable to 
 come, partly on account of toothache and partly on account 
 of Ramadan, he sent his commodore, Captain Abdullah, 
 to receive the Thule. "When the English flag was hauled 
 down in the Thule, it went up to the mainmast of the 
 Iskander Shah, and was saluted by twenty-one guns ; then 
 the Wasp saluted the Arab flag with an equal number, 
 which honor being duly acknowledged by a second royal 
 salute from the Iskander Shah, Captain Abdullah's frigate, 
 the ceremony ended. 
 
 Next day, we were received by the Sultan, and through 
 his interpreter, I told him that his friend, the Governor of 
 Bombay, had lately visited the South Mahratta Princes, 
 and had pressed on them the necessity of education ; the 
 world was moving on, and those who neglected to acquire 
 knowledge would soon find that power slipped through their 
 fingers, and that the Bombay Government, in presenting his 
 Highness with a portion of steam power, showed its desire 
 to impart one of the greatest improvements of modern times, 
 not desiring to monopolize power, but hoping to lift up 
 others with themselves and I wished him to live a hundred 
 years and enjoy all happiness. 
 
 l&th. All the Europeans went to pay visits of congratu- 
 lation to his Highness the Sultan upon the conclusion of the 
 Ramadan, when sweetmeats were placed before us. He 
 desired me to thank the Governor of Bombay for his 
 magnificent gift, and to state that although he would like to 
 have me always with him, yet he would show me the same
 
 THE ZANZIBAR SLAVE MARKET. 21 
 
 favor in Africa which he had done here : he added that the 
 Thule was at my service to take me to the Rovuma when- 
 ever I wished to leave. 
 
 The sepoys came in and did obeisance ; and I pointed out 
 the Nassick lads as those who had been rescued from slavery, 
 educated, and sent back to their own country by the Gov- 
 ernor. Surely he must see that some people in the world 
 act from other than selfish motives. 
 
 2nd March, 1866. A northern dhow came in with slaves ; 
 when this was reported to the Sultan he ordered it to be 
 burned, and we saw this done from the window of the 
 Consulate ; but he has very little power over Northern Arabs. 
 He has shown a little vigor of late. 
 
 On visiting the slave market I found about 300 slaves 
 exposed for sale, the greater part of whom came from Lake 
 Nyassa and the Shire River; I am so familiar with the 
 peculiar faces and markings or tattooings, that I expect them 
 to recognize me. Indeed one woman said that she had heard 
 of our passing up Lake Nyassa in a boat, but she did not see 
 me : others came from Chipeta, S.W. of the lake. All who 
 have grown up seem ashamed of being hawked about for 
 sale. The teeth are examined, the cloth lifted up to examine 
 the lower limbs, and a stick is thrown for the slave to bring, 
 and thus exhibit his paces. Some are dragged through the 
 crowd by the hand, and the price called out incessantly : 
 most of the purchasers were Northern Arabs and Persians. 
 This is the period when the Sultan's people may not carry 
 slaves coastwise ; but they simply cannot, for the wind is 
 against them. Many of the dhows leave for Madagascar, and 
 thence come back to complete their cargoes. 
 
 6th. Rains have begun now that the sun is overhead. 
 We expect the Penguin daily to come from Johanna, and 
 take us to the Rovuma. It is an unwholesome place; 
 six of my men have fever; few retain health long, and 
 considering the lowness of the island, and the absence of 
 sanitary regulations in the town, it is not to be wondered at. 
 
 "We visited an old man to-day, the richest in Zanzibar,
 
 22 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 who is to give me letters to his friends at Tanganyika, 
 and I am trying to get a depot of goods for provisions 
 formed there, so that when 1 reach it I may not be 
 destitute. 
 
 18th. I have arranged with Koorje, a Banian, who 
 farms the custom-house revenue here, to send a supply of 
 beads, cloth, flour, tea, coffee, and sugar, to Ujiji, on Lake 
 Tanganyika. The Arab there, with whom one of Koorje's 
 people will remain in charge of the goods, is called Thani 
 bin Suelim. 
 
 Yesterday we went to take leave of the Sultan, and to 
 thank him for all his kindness to me and my men which 
 has indeed been very great. He offered me men to go with 
 me, and another letter if I wished it. He looks very ill. 
 
 The Penguin came a few days ago, and Lieutenant Gar- 
 forth in command agrees to take me down to the Rovuma 
 River, and land me there. I have a dhow to take my 
 animals : six camels, three buffaloes, and a calf, two mules, 
 and four donkeys. I have thirteen sepoys, ten Johanna 
 men, nine Nassick boys, two Shupanga men, and two 
 Waiyaus, "Wekatani and Chumah. 
 
 [Several of these men had previously been employed by 
 Dr. Livingstone on the Zambesi and Shire ; thus Musa, the 
 Johanna man, was a sailor on the Lady Nyassa, whilst Susi 
 and Amoda were engaged at Shupanga to .cut wood for the 
 Pioneer. The two Waiyau lads, Wakatani and Chumah, 
 were liberated from the slavers by the Doctor and Bishop 
 Mackenzie in 1861, and lived for three years with the Mission 
 party at Chibisa's before they were engaged by Livingstone. 
 The Nassick lads were entire strangers, and were trained in 
 India.] 
 
 19*A. "We start this morning at 10 A.M. I trust that the 
 Most High may prosper me in this work, granting me influ- 
 ence in the eyes of the heathen, and helping me to make my 
 intercourse beneficial to them. 
 
 22nd. We reached Rovuma Bay to-day, and anchored 
 about two miles from the mouth of the river.
 
 LIVINGSTONE'S HOUSE, ZANZIBAR. 
 
 DHOW USED FOR TRANSPORT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S CAMELS.
 
 THE EXPEDITION LANDS AT MICKINDANY. 25 
 
 I went to the dhow, and there being no wind, I 
 left orders with the captain to go up the right bank should a 
 breeze arise. Mr. Fane, midshipman, accompanied me up 
 the left bank above, to see if we could lead the camels along 
 in the water. Near the point where the river first makes a 
 little bend to the north, we landed and found three formid- 
 able gullies, and jungle so thick with bush, date-palms, 
 twining bamboo, and hooked thorns, that one could scarcely 
 get along. Further inland it was sticky mud, thickly planted 
 over with mangrove roots and gullies in whose soft banks 
 one sank over the ankles. No camels could have moved, and 
 men with extreme difficulty might struggle through ; but we 
 never could have made an available road. 
 
 [Finding it impracticable to disembark at the mouth of 
 the Rovuma, the vessels proceeded to the port of Mickindany, 
 about 25 miles N. of Rovuma, where the Expedition was 
 landed. The Penguin then left.] 
 
 25tfA. I hired a house for four dollars a month, and landed 
 all our goods from the dhow. The cattle are all very much 
 the worse for being knocked about in the dhow. We began 
 to prepare saddles of a very strong tree called Ntibwe. I 
 applied also for twenty carriers, and a Banian engaged to get 
 them as soon as possible. The people have no cattle here, 
 they are half-caste Arabs mostly, and quite civil to us. 
 
 26tfA. A few of the Nassick boys have the slave spirit 
 pretty strongly ; it goes deepest in those who have the darkest 
 skins. Two Gallah men are the most intelligent and hard- 
 working among them ; some look on work with indifference 
 when others are the actors. 
 
 Now that I am on the point of starting on another trip 
 into Africa I feel quite exhilarated : when one travels with 
 the specific object in view of ameliorating the condition of 
 the natives, every act becomes ennobled. 
 
 Whether exchanging the customary civilities, or arriving 
 at a village, accepting a night's lodging, purchasing food for 
 the party, asking for information, or answering polite African 
 inquiries as to our objects in traveling, we begin to spread
 
 26 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 a knowledge of that people by whose agency their land will 
 yet become enlightened and freed from the slave-trade. 
 
 The mere animal pleasure of traveling in a wild unexplored 
 country is very great. When on lands of a couple of thous- 
 and feet elevation, brisk exercise imparts elasticity to the 
 muscles, fresh and healthy blood circulates through the 
 brain, the mind works well, the eye is clear, the step is firm, 
 and a day's exertion always makes the evening's repose 
 thoroughly enjoyable. 
 
 We have usually the stimulus of remote chances of danger 
 either from beasts or men. Our sympathies are drawn out 
 towards our humble hardy companions by a community of 
 interests, and, it may be, of perils, which make us all friends. 
 Nothing but the most pitiable puerility would lead any manly 
 heart to make their inferiority a theme for self -exaltation ; 
 however, that is often done, as if with the vague idea that 
 we can, by magnifying their deficiencies, demonstrate our 
 immaculate perfections. 
 
 The effect of travel on a man whose heart is in the right 
 place is that the mind is made more self-reliant : it becomes 
 more confident of its own resources there is greater presence 
 of mind. The body is soon well-knit ; the muscles of the 
 limbs grow as hard as a board, and seem to have no fat ; the 
 countenance is bronzed, and there is no dyspepsia. Africa 
 is a most wonderful country for appetite, and it is only when 
 one gloats over marrow bones or elephant's feet that indi- 
 gestion is possible. No doubt much toil is involved, and 
 fatigue of which travelers in the more temperate climes can 
 form but a faint conception ; but the sweat of one's brow is 
 no longer a curse when one works for God : it proves a tonic 
 to the system, and is actually a blessing. No one can truly 
 appreciate the charm of repose unless he has undergone severe 
 exertion. 
 
 27^. While the camels and other animals are getting 
 over their fatigues and bad bruises, we are making camels' 
 saddles, and repairing those of the mules and buflaloes. 
 Oysters abound on all the rocks and on the trees over which
 
 AN EXCITED ARAB. 27 
 
 the tide flows : they are small, but much relished by the 
 people. The point of land which on the north side of the 
 entrance to the harbor narrows it to about 300 yards, is alone 
 called Pemba. 
 
 4th April) 1866. When about to start from Pemba, at the 
 entrance to the other side of the bay, one of our buffaloes 
 gored a donkey so badly that he had to be shot : we cut off 
 the tips of the offender's horns, on the principle of " locking 
 the stable-door when the steed is stolen," and marched. "We 
 came to level spots devoid of vegetation, and hard on the 
 surface, but a deposit of water below allowed the camels to 
 sink up to their bodies through the crust. Hauling them 
 out, we got along to the jemidar's house, which is built of 
 coral and lime. Hamesh was profuse in his professions of 
 desire to serve, but gave a shabby hut which let in rain and 
 wind. I slept one night in it, and it was unbearable, so I 
 asked the jemidar to allow me to sleep in his court-room, 
 where many of the sepoys were : he consented, but when I 
 went refused ; then, being an excitable, nervous Arab, he 
 took fright, mustered all his men, amounting to about 
 fifteen, with matchlocks ; ran off, saying he was going to 
 kill a lion; came back, shook hands nervously with me, 
 vowing it was a man who would not obey him, " it was not 
 
 you." 
 
 Our goods were all out in the street, bound on the pack- 
 saddles, so at night we took the ordinary precaution of 
 setting a guard. This excited our dignitary, and after dark 
 all his men were again mustered with matches lighted. I 
 took no notice of him, and after he had spent a good deal of 
 talk, which we could hear, he called Musa and asked what I 
 meant. The explanations of Musa had the effect of sending 
 him to bed, and in the morning, when I learned how much 
 I had most unintentionally disturbed him, I told him that I 
 was sorry, but it did not occur to me to tell him about an 
 ordinary precaution against thieves. He thought he had 
 given me a crushing reply when he said with vehemence, 
 " But there are no thieves here."
 
 (M. "We made a short march round to the south-west side 
 of the lake, and spent the night at a village. 
 
 1th. Went about south from Kindany with a Somalie 
 guide, named Ben Ali, a good-looking obliging man, who 
 was to get twenty dollars to take us up to Ngomano. Our 
 path lay in a valley, with well-wooded heights on each side, 
 but the grass towered over our heads, and gave the sensation 
 of smothering, whilst the sun beat down on our heads very 
 fiercely, and there was not a breath of air stirring. Not 
 understanding camels, I had to trust to the sepoys who over- 
 loaded them, and before we had accomplished our march of 
 about seven miles they were knocked up. 
 
 Sth. "We spent the Sunday at a village called Nyangedi. 
 Here our buffaloes and camels were first bitten by the tsetse 
 fly. We had passed through some pieces of dense jungle 
 which, though they offered no obstruction to foot-passengers, 
 but rather an agreeable shade, had to be cut for the tall 
 camels, and fortunately we found the Makonde of this village 
 glad to engage themselves by the day either as woodcutters 
 or carriers. We had left many things with the jemidar from 
 an idea that no carriers could be procured. I lightened the 
 camels, and had a party of woodcutters to heighten and 
 widen the path in the dense jungle into which we now pene- 
 trated. Every now and then we emerged on open spaces, 
 where the Makonde have cleared gardens. The people were 
 very much more taken up with the camels and buffaloes than 
 with me. 
 
 lltk. At Tandahara we were still ascending as we went 
 south ; the soil is very fertile, with a good admixture of sand 
 in it, but no rocks are visible. 
 
 12th. On starting we found the jungle so dense that 
 the people thought " there was no cutting it : " it continued 
 upwards of three miles. The trees are not large, but so 
 closely planted together that a great deal of labor was 
 required to widen and heighten the path. Many are mere 
 poles, and so intertwined with climbers as to present the 
 appearance of a ship's ropes and cables shaken in among
 
 AN AFRICAN COAST JUNGLE. 29 
 
 them, and many have woody stems as thick as an eleven- 
 inch hawser. 
 
 We employed about ten jolly young Makonde to deal with 
 these prehistoric plants in their own way, for they are 
 accustomed to clearing spaces for gardens, and went at the 
 work with a will, using tomahawks well adapted for the work. 
 They whittled away right manfully, taking an axe when any 
 trees had to be cut. Their pay arranged beforehand, was 
 to be one yard of calico per day : this is not much, seeing we 
 are still so near the sea-coast. Climbers and young trees 
 melted before them like a cloud before the sun ! Many more 
 would have worked than we employed, but we used the pre- 
 caution of taking the names of those engaged. Tall men 
 became exhausted soonest, while the shorter men worked 
 vigorously still but a couple of days' hard work seemed to 
 tell on the best of them. It is doubtful if any but meat- 
 eating people can stand long-continued labor without exhaus- 
 tion : the Chinese may be an exception. 
 
 13th. We now began to descend the northern slope 
 down to the Rovuma, and a glimpse could occasionally be 
 had of the country ; it seemed covered with great masses 
 of dark green forest, but the undulations occasionally looked 
 like hills, and here and there a Sterculia had put on yellow 
 foliage in anticipation of the coming winter. More fre- 
 quently our vision was circumscribed to a few yards till 
 our merry woodcutters made for us the pleasant scene of a 
 long vista fit for camels to pass : as a whole, the jungle 
 would have made the authors of the natty little hints to 
 travelers smile at their own productions good enough, 
 perhaps, where one has an open country with trees and hills, 
 by which to take bearings, estimate distances, see that 
 one point is on the same latitude, another on the same 
 longitude with such another, and all to be laid down fair 
 and square with protractor and compass ; but so long as we 
 remained within the vegetation that is fed by the moisture 
 from the Indian Ocean, the steamy, smothering air, and 
 dank, rank, luxuriant vegetation made me feel, like it,
 
 30 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 struggliug for existence, and no more capable of taking 
 bearings than if I had been in a hogshead and observing 
 through the bunghole ! 
 
 14^. To-day we succeeded in reaching the Kovuma, 
 close by where it is marked on the map that the Pioneer 
 turned back in 1861. Here we rested on Sunday 15th. 
 
 IQth. Our course now lay westwards, along the side of 
 that ragged outline of table-land, which we had formerly 
 seen from the river as flanking both sides. The path is not 
 straight, but from one village to another. "We came per- 
 petually on gardens, and remarked that rice was sown among 
 the other grain. 
 
 tfth. I had to leave the camels in the hands of the 
 sepoys : I ordered them to bring as little luggage as possible, 
 and the havildar assured me that two buffaloes, were amply 
 sufficient to carry all they would bring. I now find that 
 they have more than full loads for two buffaloes, two mules, 
 and two donkeys ; but when these animals fall down under 
 them, they assure me with so much positiveness that they 
 are not overloaded, that I have to be silent, or only, as I 
 have several times done before, express the opinion that they 
 will kill these animals. The sun is very sharp ; it scorches. 
 
 18th. Ben Ali misled us away up to the north in spite 
 of my protest, when we turned in that direction ; he declared 
 that was the proper path. "We had much woodcutting, and 
 found that our course that day and next was to enable him 
 to visit and return from one of his wives a comely Makonde 
 woman ! He brought her to call on me, and I had to be 
 polite to the lady, though we lost a day by the zigzag. This 
 is one way by which the Arabs gain influence. 
 
 19A. We were led up over a hill again, and on to the 
 level of the plateau, and tasted water of an agreeable cold- 
 ness for the first time on this journey. The people, 
 especially the women, are very rude, and the men very 
 eager to be employed as woodcutters. Very merry they are 
 at it, and every now and then one raises a cheerful shout, 
 in which all join. I suppose they are urged on by a desire
 
 AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. 31 
 
 to please their wives with a little clothing. The higher 
 up the Rovuma we ascend, the people are more and more 
 tattooed on the face, and on all parts of the body. The 
 teeth are filed to points, and huge lip-rings are worn by 
 the women ; some few Mabeha men from the south side of 
 the river have lip-rings too. 
 
 20^. A Johanna man allowed the camels to tres- 
 pass and destroy a man's tobacco patch : the owner would 
 not allow us after this to pass through his rice-field, in 
 which the route lay. I examined the damage, and made 
 the Johanna man pay a yard of calico for it, which set 
 matters all right. 
 
 21s. After a great deal of cutting we reached the valley 
 of Mehambwe to spend Sunday, all glad that it had come 
 round again. Here some men came to our camp from 
 Ndonde, who report that an invasion of Mazitu had three 
 months ago swept away all the food out of the country, and 
 they are now obliged to send in every direction for 
 provisions. 
 
 A wall-eyed, ill-looking fellow, who helped to urge on 
 the attack on our first visit in 1861, and the man to whom 
 I gave cloth to prevent a collision, came about us disguised 
 in a jacket. I knew him well, but said nothing to him.* 
 
 237*6?. A carrier stole a shirt, and went off unsuspected ; 
 when the loss was ascertained, the man's companions tracked 
 him with Ben Ali by night, got him in his hut, and then 
 collected the headmen of the village who fined him about 
 four times the value of what had been stolen. They came 
 back in the morning without seeming to think that they 
 had done aught to be commended; this was the only case 
 of theft we had noticed, and the treatment showed a natural 
 sense of justice. 
 
 2-itfA. We had showers occasionally, but at night all the 
 men were under cover of screens. We could not march 
 more than a few miles owing to the slowness of the sepoys ; 
 
 * This refers to an attack made upon the boats of the Pioneer.
 
 32 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 they are a heavy drag on us, and of no possible use, except 
 when acting as sentries at night. 
 
 26A. On the 25th we reached Narri ; the people are 
 eager traders in meal, fowls, eggs, and honey ; the women 
 are very rude. Yesterday I caught a sepoy, Pando, belabor- 
 ing a camel with a big stick as thick as any part of his arm ; 
 the path being narrow, it could not get out of his way ; I 
 shouted to him to desist ; he did not know I was in sight ; 
 to-day the effect of the bad usage is seen in the animal being 
 quite unable to move its leg : inflammation has set up in the 
 hip-joint. We had to leave this camel at Nam. 
 
 28th. The hills on the north now retire out of our sight. 
 A gap in the southern plateau gives passage to a small river, 
 which arises in a lakelet of some size, eight or ten miles inland : 
 the river and lakelet are both called Nangadi ; 'the latter is 
 so broad that men cannot be distinguished, even by the keen 
 eyes of the natives on the other side ; it is very deep, and 
 abounds in large fish. 
 
 We spend Sunday, the 29th, on the banks of the Rovuma. 
 Ali draws a very dark picture of the Makonde. He says 
 they know nothing of a Deity, they pray to their mothers 
 when in distress or dying; know nothing of a future 
 state, nor have they any religion except a belief in medicine ; 
 and every headsman is a doctor. 
 
 I went with the Makonde to see a specimen of the gum- 
 copal tree in the vicinity of this village. The leaves are in 
 pairs, glossy green, with the veins a little raised on both 
 face and back ; the smaller branches diverge from the same 
 point : the fruit, of which we saw the shells, seems to be 
 a nut ; some animal had in eating them cut them through. 
 The bark of the tree is of a light ash color ; the gum was 
 oozing from the bark at wounded places, and it drops on the 
 ground from branches ; it is thus that insects are probably 
 imbedded in the gum-copal. 
 
 30<A. I am sorry to suspect foul play : the buffaloes and 
 mules are badly used, but I cannot be always near to pre- 
 vent it.
 
 CHAPTER H. 
 THE MAECH UP THE KOVUMA. 
 
 MAY IST, 1866. "We now came along through a country 
 comparatively free of wood, and we could move on 
 without perpetual cutting and clearing. It is beautiful to 
 get a good glimpse out on the surrounding scenery, though 
 it still seems nearly all covered with great masses of umbra- 
 geous foliage, mostly of a dark green color, for nearly all of 
 the individual trees possess dark glossy leaves like laurel. 
 
 When we came to Ntande's village, 'we found it inclosed 
 in a strong stockade, from a fear of attack by Mabiha, who 
 come across the river and steal their women when going to 
 draw water : this is for the Ibo market. They offered to pull 
 down their stockade and let us in if we would remain over- 
 night, but we declined. Before reaching Ntande we passed 
 the ruins of two villages; the owners were the attacking 
 party when we ascended the Kovuma in 1862. I have still 
 the old sail, with four bullet-holes through it, made by the 
 shots which they fired after we had given cloth and got 
 assurances of friendship. 
 
 3rd. We rested in a Makoa village, the head of which 
 was an old woman. The Makoa or Makoane are known by 
 a half -moon figure tattooed on their foreheads or elsewhere. 
 Our poodle dog Chitane chased the dogs of this village with 
 unrelenting fury, his fierce looks inspired terror among the 
 wretched pariah dogs of a yellow and white color, and those 
 looks were entirely owing to its being difficult to distinguish 
 at which end his head or tail lay. He enjoyed the chase of
 
 34 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 the yelping curs immensely, but if one of them had turned 
 he would have bolted the other way. 
 
 A motherly-looking woman came forward and offered me 
 some meal ; this was when we were in the act of departing : 
 others had given food to the men and no return had been 
 made. I told her to send it on by her husband, and I would 
 purchase it, but it would have been better to have accepted 
 it: some give merely out of kindly feeling and with no 
 prospect of a return. 
 
 Many of the Makoa men have their faces thickly tattooed 
 in double raised lines of about half an inch in length. After 
 the incisions are made, charcoal is rubbed in and the flesh 
 pressed out, so that all the cuts are raised above the level of 
 the surface. It gives them rather a hideous look, and a good 
 deal of that fierceness which our kings and chiefs of old put 
 on whilst having their portraits taken. 
 
 4th. The stream, embowered in perpetual shade and over- 
 spread with the roots of water-loving, broad-leaved trees, we 
 found to be called Nkonya. The spot of our encampment 
 was an island formed by a branch of it parting and re-enter- 
 ing it again : the owner had used it for rice. 
 
 At Nyamba, a village where we spent the night of the 5th, 
 was a doctoress and rain-maker, who presented a large basket 
 of soroko, or, as they call it in India, " inung," and a fowl. 
 She is tall and well made, with fine limbs and feet, and was 
 profusely tattooed all over ; even her hips and buttocks had 
 their elaborate markings ; no shame is felt in exposing these 
 parts. 
 
 6th. The people hereabouts seem intelligent and respect- 
 ful. At service a man began to talk, but when I said, " Ku 
 soma Mlungu," "we wish to pray to God," he desisted. 
 
 1th. A camel died during the night, and the gray buffalo 
 is in convulsions this morning. The cruelty of these sepoys 
 vitiates my experiment, and I quite expect many camels, one 
 buffalo, and one mule to die yet ; they sit down and smoke 
 and eat, leaving the animals loaded in the sun. "We have 
 not averaged four miles a day in a straight line, yet the
 
 ABOLISHING A TOLL. 35 
 
 animals have often been kept in the sun for eight hours at a 
 stretch. Sepoys are a mistake. 
 
 8th "We arrived at a village called Jponde. I left the 
 havildar, sepoys, and Nassick boys here in order to make a 
 forced march forward, where no food is to be had, and send 
 either to the south or westwards for supplies, so that after 
 they have rested the animals and themselves five days they 
 may come. 
 
 9A. I went on with the Johanna men and twenty-four 
 carriers, for it was a pleasure to get away from the sepoys 
 and Nassick boys ; the two combined to overload the animals. 
 I told them repeatedly that they would kill them, but no 
 sooner had I adjusted the burdens and turned my back than 
 they put on all their things. It was however such continual 
 vexation to contend with the sneaking spirit, that I gave up 
 annoying myself by seeing matters, though I felt certain 
 that the animals would all be killed. We did at least eight 
 miles pleasantly well, and slept at Moedaa village. We 
 passed the spot where an Arab called Birkal was asked pay- 
 ment for leave to pass. After two and a half days' parley he 
 fought, killed two Makonde, and mortally wounded a head- 
 man, which settled the matter; no fresh demand has been 
 made. Ali's brother also resisted the same sort of demand, 
 fought several times, or until three Makonde and two of his 
 people were killed; they then made peace, and no other 
 exactions have been made. 
 
 \\th. We now found a difficulty in getting our carriers 
 along, on account of exhaustion from want of food. We met 
 a runaway woman : she was seized by Ali, and it was plain 
 that he expected a reward for his pains. He thought she was 
 a slave, but a quarter of a mile off was the village she had left, 
 and it being doubtful if she were a runaway at all, the would- 
 be fugitive slave-capture turned out a failure. 
 
 13M-. We halted at a village at Matawatawa. A pleasant- 
 looking lady, with her face profusely tattooed, came forward 
 with a bunch of sweet reed, and laid it at my feet, saying, " I 
 met you here before," pointing to the spot on the river
 
 g0 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 where wo turned. I remember her coming then, and that I 
 asked the boat to wait while she went to bring us a basket of 
 food, and I think it was given to Chiko, and no return made. 
 It is sheer kindliness that prompts them sometimes, though 
 occasionally people do make presents with a view of getting 
 a larger one in return : it is pleasant to find that it is not al- 
 ways so. She had a quiet, dignified manner, both in talking 
 and walking, and I now gave her a small looking-glass, and 
 she went and brought me her only fowl and a basket of 
 cucumber-seeds, from which oil is made ; from the amount of 
 oily matter they contain they are nutritious when roasted 
 and eaten as nuts. She made an apology, saying they were 
 hungry times at present. I gave her a cloth, and so parted 
 with Kanangone. 
 
 \th. I could not get the carriers on more than an hour 
 and three-quarters ; men tire very soon on empty stomachs. 
 We had reached the village of Hassane. Hassane's daughter 
 was just lifting a pot of French beans, boiled in their pods, 
 off the fire when we entered the village ; these he presented 
 to me, and when I invited him to partake, he replied that 
 he was at home and would get something, while I was a 
 stranger on a journey. He, like all the other headmen, is a 
 reputed doctor, and his wife, a stout old lady, a doctoress ; 
 he had never married any wife but this one, and he had four 
 children, all whom lived with their parents. We employed 
 one of his sons to go to the south side and purchase food, 
 sending at the same time some carriers to buy for themselves. 
 The siroko and rice bought by Hassane's son we deposited 
 with him for the party behind, when they should arrive. The 
 amount of terror the Mazitu inspire cannot be realized by us. 
 They shake their shields and the people fly like stricken 
 deer. I observed that a child would not go a few yards for 
 necessary purposes unless grandmother stood in sight. 
 
 \5th-\Qth. Miserably short marches from hunger, and I 
 sympathize with the poor fellows. Those sent to buy food 
 for themselves on the south bank were misled by a talkative 
 fellow named Chikungu, and went off north, where we knew
 
 MATUMORA. 37 
 
 4 
 
 nothing could be had. His object was to get paid for three 
 days, while they only loitered here. I suppose hunger has 
 taken the spirit out of them ; but I told them that a day in 
 which no work was done did not count : they admitted this. 
 We pay about two feet of calico per day, and a fathom or six 
 feet for three days' carriage. 
 
 Vlth. "With very empty stomachs they came on a few 
 miles and proposed to cross to the south side; as this involved 
 crossing the Loendi too, I at first objected, but in hopes that 
 we might get food for them we consented, and were 'taken 
 over in two very small canoes. I sent Ali and Musa mean- 
 while to the south to try and get some food. I got a little 
 green sorghum for them and paid them off. These are the 
 little troubles of traveling, and scarce worth mentioning. 
 
 . Coming on with what carriers we could find at the 
 crossing place, we reached the confluence without seeing it ; 
 and Matumora being about two miles up the Loendi, we sent 
 over to him for aid. He came over this morning early, a 
 tall, well-made man, with a somewhat severe expression of 
 countenance, from a number of wrinkles on his forehead. 
 He took us over the Loendi, which is decidedly the parent 
 stream of the Rovuma. 
 
 Matumora has a good character in the country, and many 
 flee to him from oppression. He was very polite ; sitting-on 
 the right bank till all the goods were carried over, then 
 coming in the same canoe with me himself, he opened a fish 
 basket in a weir and gave me the contents, and subsequently 
 a little green sorghum. He literally has lost all his corn, for 
 he was obliged to flee with his people to a rocky island in 
 Rovuma. He had never seen a European before. 
 
 20th. I paid Ali to his entire satisfaction, and intrusted 
 him with a dispatch, " No. 2 Geographical," and then sent 
 off four men south to buy food. Here we are among 
 Matambwe. Two of Matumora's men act as guides. 
 
 Abraham, one of the Nassick boys, came up and said he 
 had been sent by the sepoys, who declared they would come 
 no further. It was with the utmost difficulty they had come 
 
 B
 
 gg LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 so far, or that the havildar had forced them on, they would 
 not obey him would not get up in the mornings to march ; 
 lay in the paths, and gave their pouches and muskets to the 
 natives to carry : they make themselves utterly useless. The 
 black buffalo is dead; one camel ditto, and one mule left 
 behind ill. "Were I not aware of the existence of the tsetse, 
 I should say they died from sheer bad treatment and hard 
 work. 
 
 I sent a note to be read to the sepoys stating that I had 
 seen their disobedience, unwillingness, and skulking, and as 
 soon as I received the havildar's formal evidence, I would 
 send them back. I regretted parting with the havildar only. 
 
 A leopard came a little after dark while the moon was 
 shining, and took away a little dog from among us ; it is said 
 to have taken off a person a few days agb. 
 
 22nd. The men returned with but little food in return 
 for much cloth. Matumora is very friendly, but he has 
 nothing to give save a little green sorghum, and that he 
 brings daily. 
 
 2Gth. I sent Musa westwards to buy food, and he 
 returned on the evening of the 27th without success; he 
 found an Arab slave-dealer in the path, who had bought up 
 all the provisions. About 11 P. M. we saw two men pass 
 our door with two women in a chain ; one man carried fire 
 in front, the one behind, a musket. Matumora admits that 
 his people sell each other. 
 
 21th. The havildar and Abraham came up. Havildar 
 says that all I said in my note was true, and when it was 
 read to the sepoys they bewailed their folly ; he adds that if 
 they were all sent away disgraced, no one would be to blame" 
 but themselves. He brought them to Hassane's, but they 
 were useless, though they begged to be kept on I may give 
 them another trial, but at present they are a sad encumbrance. 
 
 The country due west of this is described by all to be so 
 mountainous and beset by Mazitu, that there is no possibility 
 of passing that way ; I must therefore go to the middle of 
 the lake, cross over, and then take up my line of 1863.
 
 DEEP REVERENCE IN THE NATIVE MIND. 39 
 
 June, 1866. The men sent to the Matambwe south- 
 east of this returned with a good supply of grain. The 
 sepoys won't come ; they say they cannot, a mere excuse, 
 because they tried to prevail on the Nassick boys to go 
 slowly like them, and wear my patience out. They killed 
 one camel with the butt ends of their muskets, beating it 
 till it died. I thought of going down, disarming them all, 
 and taking five or six of the willing ones, but it is more 
 trouble than profit, so I propose to start westwards on the 
 4th or 5th. My sepoys offered Ali eight rupees to take 
 them to the coast; thus it has been a regularly organized 
 conspiracy. 
 
 3rd. The cow-buffalo fell down foaming at the mouth, 
 and expired. The meat looks fat and nice, and is relished 
 by the people. 
 
 I asked Matumora if the Matambwe believed in God, he. . 
 replied, that he did not know Him, and I was not to ask the 
 people among whom I was going if they prayed to Him, 
 because they would imagine that I wished them to be killed. 
 I told him that we loved to speak about Him, etc. He said, 
 when they prayed they offered a little meal and then prayed, 
 but did not know much about Him. They have all great 
 reverence for the Deity, and the deliberate way in which 
 they say, "We don't know Him" is to prevent speaking 
 irreverently, as that may injure the country. 
 
 4th. Left Ngomano. I was obliged to tell the JSTassick 
 boys that they must either work or return, it was absurd to 
 have them eating up our goods, and not even carrying their 
 own things, and I would submit to it no more : five of them 
 carry bales, and two the luggage of the rest. Abraham and 
 Richard are behind. I gave them bales to carry, and 
 promised them ten rupees per month, to begin on this date. 
 Abraham has worked hard all along, and his pay may be the 
 day we started from Kindany. 
 
 5#A. We slept at a village called Lamba, on the banks of 
 the Rovuma. The country is covered with open forest, 
 with patches of cultivation everywhere, but all dried up at
 
 4.Q LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 present and withered, partly from drought and partly from 
 the cold of winter. 
 
 Qth. We left a village, called Mekosi, and soon came to a 
 slaving party by a sand stream. They said that they had 
 bought two slaves, but they had run away from them, and 
 asked us to remain with them ; more civil than inviting. 
 We came on to Makochera, the principal headman in this 
 quarter, and found him a merry laughing mortal, without 
 any good looks to recommend his genial smile, low forehead, 
 covered with deep wrinkles; flat nose, somewhat of the 
 Assyrian shape ; a big mouth and lean body. 
 
 7tfA. The havildar and two sepoys came up with Abra- 
 ham, but Richard, a Nassick boy, is still behind from weak- 
 ness. I sent three off to help him with the only cordials we 
 could muster. The sepoys sometimes profess inability to 
 come on, but it is unwillingness to encounter hardship : I 
 must move on whether they come or not, for we cannot 
 obtain food here. 
 
 I could not prevail on Makochera to give me a specimen 
 of poetry ; he was afraid ; neither he nor his forefathers had 
 ever seen an Englishman. He thought that God was not 
 good because He killed so many people. Dr. Roscher must 
 have traveled as an Arab if he came this way, for he was not 
 known. 
 
 9tfA. We now left and marched through the same sort of 
 forest, gradually ascending in altitude as we went west ; then we 
 came to huge masses of granite, or syenite, with flakes peeling 
 off. We spent the night by a hill of the usual rounded form, 
 called Njengo. The Rovuma comes close by, but leaves us 
 again to wind among similar great masses. 
 
 Wth. A very heavy march through the same kind of 
 country, no human habitation appearing. The first evidence 
 of our being near the pleasant haunts of man was a nice 
 little woman drawing water at a well. I had become sepa- 
 rated from the rest ; on giving me water she knelt down, and, 
 as country manners require, held it up to me with loth 
 hands.
 
 THE MATAMBWB. 41 
 
 An Arab party bolted on hearing of our approach : they 
 don't trust the English, and this conduct increases our 
 importance among the natives. 
 
 llth. Our carriers refuse to go further, because they say 
 that they fear being captured here on their return. 
 
 12A. I paid off the carriers, and wait for a set from this. 
 A respectable man, called Makoloya, visited me, and wished 
 to ask some questions as to where I was going, and how 
 long I should be away. He had heard from a man who 
 came from Ibo, or Wibo, about the Bible, a large book which 
 was consulted. 
 
 13th. Makoloya brought his wife and a little corn, and 
 says that his father told him that there is a God, but nothing 
 more. The marks on their foreheads and bodies are meant 
 only to give beauty in the dance ; they seem a sort of heraldic 
 ornament, for they can at once tell by his tattoo to what 
 tribe or portion of tribe a man belongs. The tattoo or tembo 
 of the Matambwe and Upper Makonde very much resembles 
 the drawings of the old Egyptians ; wavy lines, such as the 
 ancients made to signify water, trees and gardens enclosed 
 in squares, seem to have been meant of old for the inhabi- 
 tants who lived on the Rovuma, and cultivated also, the son 
 takes the tattoo of his father, and thus it has been perpetuated, 
 though the meaning now appears lost. The Makoa have the 
 half or nearly full moon, but it is, they say, all for ornament. 
 Some blue stuff is rubbed into the cuts, and the ornament 
 shows brightly in persons of light complexion, who by the 
 by are common. 
 
 14A. I am now as much dependent on carriers as if I 
 had never bought a beast of burden but this is poor stuff 
 to fill a journal with. We started off to Metaba to see if 
 the chief there would lend some men. The headman, 
 Kitwanga, went a long way to convoy us ; then turned, say- 
 ing he was going to get men for Musa next day. "We passed 
 near the base of the rounded masses Ngozo and Mekanga, 
 and think, from a near inspection, that they are over 2000 
 feet above the plain, possibly 3000 feet, and nearly bare.
 
 42 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 with only the peculiar grassy plant on some parts which 
 are not too perpendicular. The people are said to have 
 stores of grain on them, and on one the chief said there is 
 water ; he knows of no stone buildings of the olden time in 
 the country. 
 
 15A. Another three hours' march brought us from the 
 sleeping-place on the Rovuma to Metaba, the chief of which, 
 Kinazombe, is an elderly man, with a cunning and severe 
 cast of countenance, and a nose Assyrian in type ; he has 
 built a large reception house, in which a number of half-caste 
 Arabs have taken up their abode. A great many of the 
 people have guns, and it is astonishing to see the number of 
 slave-taming sticks abandoned along the road as the poor 
 wretches gave in, and professed to have lost all hope of escape. 
 Many huts have been built by the Arabs to screen themselves 
 from the rain as they traveled. 
 
 16th. The cattle of Africa are like the Indian buffalo, 
 only partially tamed ; they never give their milk without the 
 presence of the calf or its stuffed skin, the " fulchan." The 
 women adjacent to Mozambique partake a little of the wild 
 animal's nature, for, like most members of the inferior races 
 of animals, they refuse all intercourse with their husbands 
 when enciente and they continue this for about three years 
 afterwards, or until the child is weaned, which usually hap- 
 pens about the third year. , I was told, on most respectable 
 authority, that many fine young native men marry one wife 
 and live happily with her till this period ; nothing will then 
 induce her to continue to cohabit with him, and, as the sepa- 
 ration is to continue for three years, the man is almost com- 
 pelled to take up with another wife : this was mentioned to 
 mo as one of the great evils of society. The same absurdity 
 prevails on the West Coast. 
 
 ISth. Finding that Musa did not come up with the goods 
 I left in his charge, and fearing that all was not right, we 
 set off with all our hands who could carry, after service yes- 
 terday morning, and in six hours' hard tramp arrived here 
 just in time, for a tribe of Wanindi, who are either Ajawas
 
 DEATH OF A NASSICK BOY. 43 
 
 or pretended Mazita, had tried to cross the Kovuma from 
 the north bank. They came as plunderers, and Musa having 
 received no assistance was now ready to defend the goods. 
 A shot or two from the people of Kitwanga made the 
 Wanindi desert after they had entered the water. 
 
 Six sepoys and Simon had come up this length ; Reuben 
 and Mabruki reported Richard to be dead. This poor boy 
 was left with the others at Liponde, and I never saw him 
 again. I observed him associating too much with the sepoys ; 
 and often felt inclined to reprove him, as their conversation 
 is usually very bad, but I could not of my owi knowledge 
 say so. He came on with the others as far as Hassane or 
 Pachassane : there he was too weak to come further, and as 
 the sepoys were notoriously skulkers, I feared that poor 
 Richard was led away by them, for I knew that they had 
 made many attempts to draw away the other Nassick boys 
 from their duty. When, however, Abraham came up and 
 reported Richard left behind by the sepoys, I became 
 alarmed, and sent off three boys with cordials to help him 
 on : two days after Abraham left he seems to have died, and 
 I feel very sorry that I was not there to do what I could. I 
 am told now that he never consented to the sepoy tempta- 
 tion : he said to Abraham that he wished he were dead, he 
 was so much troubled. The people where he died were not 
 very civil to Simon. 
 
 The sepoys had now made themselves such an utter 
 nuisance that I felt that I must take the upper hand with 
 them, so I called them up this morning, and asked if they 
 knew the punishment they had incurred by disobeying 
 orders, and attempting to tamper with the Nassick boys to 
 turn them back. I told them they not only remained in the 
 way when ordered to march, but offered eight rupees to Ali 
 to lead them to the coast, and that the excuse of sickness 
 was nought, for they had eaten heartily three meals a day 
 while pretending illness. They had no excuse to offer, so 
 I disrated the naik or corporal, and sentenced the others to 
 carry loads ; if they behave well, then they will get fatigue
 
 44 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 pay for doing fatigue duty ; if ill, nothing but their pay. 
 Their limbs are becoming contracted from sheer idleness; 
 while all the other men are well and getting stronger they 
 alone are disreputably slovenly and useless-looking. Their 
 filthy habits are to be reformed, and if found at their habit 
 of sitting down and sleeping for hours on the march, or with- 
 out their muskets and pouches, they are to be flogged. 
 
 19rfA. Perim, a sepoy, reduced his load of about 20 Ibs. of 
 tea by throwing away the lead in which it was rolled, and 
 afterwards about 15 Ibs of the tea, thereby diminishing our 
 stock to 5 Ibe. 
 
 I lighted on a telegram to-day : 
 
 "Tour mother died at noon on the 18th June." 
 
 This was in 1865 ; it affected me not a little. 
 [This refers to a telegram which he received while in 
 England, and took with him to Africa.]
 
 CHAPTER 
 IN THE TRACKS OF THE SLAYERS. 
 
 JUNE 19-ni, 1866. We passed a woman tied by the 
 neck to a tree and dead ; the people of the country 
 explained that she had been unable to keep up with the 
 other slaves in a gang, and her master had determined that 
 she should not become the property of anyone else if she 
 recovered after resting for a time. I may mention here that 
 we saw others tied up in a similar manner, and one lying in 
 the path shot or stabbed, for she was in a pool of blood. 
 The explanation we got invariably was that the Arab who 
 owned these victims was enraged at losing his money by the 
 slaves becoming unable to. march, and vented his spleen by 
 murdering them ; but I have nothing more than common 
 report in support of attributing this enormity to the Arabs. 
 
 20A. Having returned to Metaba, we were told by 
 Kinazombe, the chief, that no one had grain to sell but 
 himself. He had plenty of powder and common cloth from 
 the Arabs, and our only chance with him was parting with 
 our finer cloths and other things that took his fancy. He 
 magnified the scarcity in front in order to induce us to buy 
 all we could from him, but he gave me an ample meal of 
 porridge and guinea-fowl before starting. 
 
 %lst. "We had difficulties about carriers, but on reaching 
 an island in the Rovnma, called Chimiki, we found the 
 people were Makoa and more civil and willing to work than 
 the "Waiyau : we sent men back to bring up the havildar to 
 a very civil headman called Chirikaloma.
 
 46 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 . Immense quantities of wood are cut down, collected 
 in heaps, and burned to manure the land, but this does not 
 prevent the country having an appearance of forest. Divine 
 service at 8.30 A. M., great numbers looking on. They have 
 a clear idea of the Supreme Being, but do not pray to Him. 
 
 Pottery seems to have been known to the Africans from 
 the remotest times, for fragments are found everywhere, 
 even among the oldest fossil bones in the country. Their 
 pots for cooking, holding water and beer, are made by the 
 women, and the form is preserved by the eye alone, for no 
 sort of machine is ever used. 
 
 25A. On leaving Chirikaloma we came on to Namalo, 
 whose village that morning had been deserted, the people 
 moving off in a body towards the Matambwe country, where 
 food is more abundant. A poor little girl was left in one 
 of the huts from being too weak to walk probably an 
 orphan. The Arab slave-traders flee from the path as soon 
 as they hear of our approach. No food to be had for either 
 love or money. 
 
 Near many of the villages we observe a wand bent and 
 both ends inserted into the ground : a lot of medicine, 
 usually the bark of trees, is buried beneath it. When 
 sickness is in a village, the men proceed to the spot, wash 
 themselves with the medicine and water, creep through 
 beneath the bough, then bury the medicine and the evil 
 influence together. This is also used to keep off evil spirits, 
 wild beasts, and enemies. 
 
 Chirikalomd told us of a child in his tribe which was 
 deformed from his birth. He had an abortive toe where his 
 knee should have been ; some said to his mother, " Kill him ;" 
 but she replied, " How can I kill my son ? " lie grew up 
 and had many fine sons and daughters, but none deformed 
 like himself: this was told in connection with an answer to 
 my question about the treatment of Albinoes : he said they 
 did not kill them, but they never grew to manhood. On 
 inquiring if he had ever heard of cannibals, or people with 
 tails, he replied, " Yes, but we have always understood that
 
 RESCUED FROM A TAMING-STICK. 49 
 
 these and other monstrosities are met with only among you 
 sea-going people." The other monstrosities referred to were 
 those who are said to have eyes behind the head as well as 
 in front : I have heard of them before, but then I was near 
 Angola, in the west. 
 
 In the route along the Rovuma, we pass among people 
 who are so well supplied with white calico by the slave-trade 
 from Kilwa, that it is quite a drug in the market : we cannot 
 get food for it. 
 
 i. My last mule died. In coming along in the 
 morning we were loudly accosted by a well-dressed woman 
 who had just had a very heavy slave-taming stick put on 
 her neck ; she called in such an authoritative tone to us to 
 witness the flagrant injustice of which she was the victim, 
 that all the men stood still and went to hear the case. She 
 was a near relative* of Chirikaloma, and was going up the 
 river to her husband, when the old man (at whose house she 
 was now a prisoner) caught her, took her servant away from 
 her, and kept her in the degraded state we saw. The withes 
 with which she was bound were green and sappy. The old 
 man said in justification that she was running away from 
 Chirikaloma, and he would be offended with him if he did 
 not secure her. 
 
 I asked the officious old gentleman in a friendly tone what 
 he expected to receive from Chirikaloma, and he said, 
 " Nothing." Several slaver-looking fellows came about, and 
 I felt sure that the woman had been seized in order to sell 
 her to them ; so I gave the captor a cloth to pay to Chirikal- 
 omo if he were offended, and told him to say that I, feeling 
 ashamed to see one of his relatives in a slave-stick, had 
 released her, and would take her on to her husband. 
 
 She is evidently a lady among them, having many fine 
 beads and some strung on elephant's hair : she has a good 
 deal of spirit too, for on being liberated she went into the 
 old man's house and took her basket and calabash. A virago 
 
 v O 
 
 of a wife shut the door and tried to prevent her, as well as 
 to cut off the beads from her person, but she resisted like a
 
 50 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 good one, and my men thrust the door open and let her out, 
 but minus her slave. The other wife for old officious had 
 two joined her sister in a furious tirade of abuse, the elder 
 holding her sides in regular fishwife fashion till I burst into 
 a laugh, in which the younger wife joined. I explained to 
 the different headmen in front of this village what I had 
 done, and sent messages to Chirikaloma explanatory of my 
 friendly deed to his relative, so that no misconstruction 
 should be put on my act. 
 
 We passed a slave woman shot or stabbed through the 
 body and lying on the path : a group of men stood about a 
 hundred yards off on one side, and another of women on the 
 other side, looking on ; they said an Arab who passed early 
 that morning had done it in anger at losing the price he had 
 given for her, because she was unable to walk any longer. 
 
 27tfA. To-day we came upon a man dead from starvation, 
 as he was very thin. One of our men wandered and found 
 a number of slaves with slave-sticks on, abandoned by their 
 master from want of food ; they were too weak to be able to 
 speak or say where they had come from ; some were quite 
 young. 
 
 At Chenjewala's the people are usually much startled when 
 I explain that the numbers of slaves we see dead on the road 
 have been killed partly by those who sold them ; for I tell 
 them that if they sell their fellows, they are like the man 
 who holds the victim while the Arab performs the murder. 
 
 28A. When we got about an hour from Chenjewala's we 
 came to a party in the act of marauding ; the owners of the 
 gardens made off for the other side of the river, and waved 
 to us to go against the people of Machemba, but we stood on 
 a knoll with all our goods on the ground, and waited to see 
 how matters would turn out. Two of the marauders came 
 to us and said they had captured five people. I suppose 
 they took us for Arabs, as they addressed Musa. They then 
 took some green maize, and so did some of rny people, be- 
 lieving that as all was going, they who were really starving 
 might as well have a share.
 
 A BLACK LADY'S GRATITUDE. 51 
 
 I went on a little way with the two marauders, and by the 
 footprints thought the whole party might amount to four or 
 five with guns ; the gardens and huts were all deserted. A 
 poor woman was sitting, cooking green maize, and one of 
 the men ordered her to follow him. I said to him, " Let her 
 alone, she is dying." " Yes," said he, " of hunger," and went 
 on without her. 
 
 "We passed village after village, and gardens all deserted ! 
 We were now between two contending parties. We slept at 
 one garden ; and as we were told by Chenjewala's people to 
 take what we liked, and my men had no food, we gleaned 
 what congo beans, bean leaves, and sorghum stalks we could, 
 poor fare enough, but all we could get. 
 
 29A. We came on to Machemba's brother, Chimseia, who 
 gave us food at once. One of the Nassick lads came up and 
 reported his bundle, containing 240 yards of calico, had been 
 stolen ; he went aside, leaving it on the path (probably fell 
 asleep), and it was gone when he came back. 
 
 Akosakone, whom we had liberated, now arrived at the 
 residence of her husband, who was another brother of 
 Machemba. She behaved like a lady all through, sleeping at 
 a tire apart from the men. The ladies of the different villages 
 we passed condoled with her, and she related to them the 
 indignity that had been done to her. Besides this she did us 
 many services ; she bought food for us, because, having a 
 good address, we saw that she could get double what any of 
 our men could purchase for the same cloth : she spoke up for 
 us when any injustice was attempted, and, when we were .in 
 want of carriers, volunteered to carry a bag of beads on her 
 head. On arriving at Machemba's brother, Chimseia, she 
 introduced me to him, and got him to be liberal to us in food, 
 on account of the service we had rendered to her. She took 
 leave of us all with many expressions of thankfulness, and 
 we were glad that we had not mistaken her position or 
 lavished kindness on the undeserving. 
 
 One Johanna man was caught stealing maize, then another, 
 after I had paid for the first. I sent a request to the chief
 
 52 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 not to make much of a grievance about it, as I was very much 
 ashamed at my men stealing ; he replied that he had liked 
 me from the first, and I was not to fear, as whatever service 
 he could do he would most willingly in order to save me pain 
 and trouble. A sepoy now came up having given his musket 
 to a man to carry, who therefore demanded payment. As it 
 had become a regular nuisance for the sepoys to employ 
 people to carry for them, telling them that I would pay, I 
 demanded why he had promised in my name. " Oh, it was 
 but a little way he carried the musket," said he. Chimseia 
 warned us next morning, 30th June, against allowing any 
 one to straggle or steal in front, for stabbing and plundering 
 was the rule. The same sepoy who had employed a man to 
 carry his musket now came forward, with his eyes fixed and 
 shaking all over. This, I was to understand, meant extreme 
 weakness ; but I had accidentally noticed him walking quite 
 smartly before this exhibition, so I ordered him to keep close 
 to the donkey that carried the havildar's luggage, and on 
 no account to remain behind the party. He told the havil- 
 dar that he would sit down only for a little while ; and, I 
 suppose, fell asleep, for he came up to us in the evening as 
 naked as a robin. 
 
 I saw another person bound to a tree and dead a sad 
 sight to see, whoever was the perpetrator. So many slave- 
 sticks lie along our path, that I suspect the people here-about 
 make a practice of liberating what slaves they can find 
 abandoned on the march, to sell them again. 
 
 A large quantity of maize is cultivated at Chimsaka's, at 
 whose place we this day arrived. We got a supply, but being 
 among thieves, we thought it advisable to move on to the 
 next place (Mtarika's). When starting, we found that fork, 
 kettle, pot, and shot-pouch had been taken. The thieves, I 
 observed, kept up a succession of jokes with Chumah and 
 Wikatani, and when the latter was enjoying them, and 
 gaping to the sky, they were busy putting the things of which 
 lie had charge under their cloths ! I spoke to the chief, and 
 he got the first three articles back for me.
 
 LIVINGSTONE LAUGHED AT. 55 
 
 1st July, 1866. The path is almost strewed with slave- 
 sticks, and though the people denied it, I suspect that they 
 make a practice of following slave caravans and catting off 
 the sticks from those who fall out in the march, and thus 
 stealing them. By selling them again they get the quantities 
 of cloth we see. 
 
 2nd. We rested at Mtarika's old place ; and though we 
 had to pay dearly with our best table-cloths for it, we got as 
 much as made one meal a day. At the same dear rate we 
 could give occasionally only two ears of maize to each man ; 
 and if the sepoys got their comrades' corn into their hands, 
 they ate it without shame. We had to bear a vast amount of 
 staring, for the people, who are Waiyau, have a great deal of 
 curiosity, and are occasionally rather rude. They have all 
 heard of our wish to stop the slave-trade, and are rather taken 
 aback when told that by selling they are art and part guilty 
 of the mortality of which we had been unwilling spectators. 
 Some were dumbfounded when shown that in the eye of their 
 Maker they are parties to the destruction of human life which 
 accompanies this traffic both by sea and land. If they did 
 not sell, the Arabs would not come to buy. Chumah and 
 Wakatani render what is said very eloquently in Chiyau, 
 most of the people being of their tribe, with only a sprinkling 
 of slaves. 
 
 Successive crowds of people came to gaze. My appearance 
 and acts often cause a burst of laughter ; sudden standing up 
 produces a flight of women and children. To prevent peep- 
 ing into the hut which I occupy, and making the place quite 
 dark, I do my writing in the veranda. Chitane, the poodle 
 dog, the buffalo-calf, and our only remaining donkey are 
 greeted with the same amount of curiosity and laughter- 
 exciting comment as myself. 
 
 Every evening a series of loud musket reports are heard 
 from the different villages along the river ; these are imita- 
 tion evening guns. All copy the Arabs in dress and chewing 
 tobacco with "nora" lime, made from burnt river shells in- 
 stead of betel-nut and lime. The women are stout, well-built
 
 56 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 persons, with thick arms and legs ; their heads incline to the 
 bullet shape ; the lip-rings are small ; the tattoo a mixture of 
 Makoa and Waiyau. 
 
 3rd. A short inarch brought us to Mtarika's new place. 
 The chief made his appearance only after he had ascertained 
 all he could about us. The population is immense ; they are 
 making new gardens, and the land is laid out by straight lines 
 about a foot broad, cut with the hoe ; one goes miles without 
 getting beyond the marked or surveyed fields. 
 
 Mtarika came at last ; a big ugly man, with large mouth 
 and receding forehead. He asked to see all our curiosities, 
 as the watch, revolver, breech-loading rifle, sextant. I gave 
 him a lecture on the evil of selling his people, and he wished 
 me to tell all the other chiefs the same thing. 
 
 5th. "We left for Mtende, the last chief before we enter on 
 an eight days' march to Mataka's. On the way we passed 
 the burnt bones of a person who was accused of having eaten 
 human flesh ; he had been poisoned, or, as they said, killed 
 by poison, and then burned. His clothes were hung up on 
 trees by the wayside as a warning to others. 
 
 7th. We got men from Mtende to carry loads and show 
 the way. He asked a cloth to insure his people going to the 
 journey's end and behaving properly. 
 
 When the sepoy Perim threw away the tea and the lead 
 lining I only reproved him and promised him punishment 
 if he committed any other willful offense, but now he and 
 another skulked behind and gave their loads to a stranger 
 to carry, with a promise to him that I would pay. We 
 waited two hours for them; and as the havildar said 
 that they would not obey him, I gave Perim and the 
 other some smart cuts with a cane, but I felt that I was 
 degrading myself, and resolved not to do the punishment 
 myself again. 
 
 8th. Hard traveling through a depopulated countiy. 
 
 th. We slept in a wild spot, near Mount Leziro, with 
 many lions roaring about us ; one hoarse fellow serenaded 
 us a long time, but did nothing more.
 
 STARVATION AX ARAB CARAVAN. 57 
 
 . Nothing to interest but the same weary trudge : 
 our food so scarce that we can only give a handful or half a 
 pound of grain to each person per day. A dead body lay 
 in a hut by the wayside ; the poor thing had begun to make 
 a garden by the stream, probably in hopes of living long 
 enough (two months or so) on wild fruits to reap a crop of 
 maize. 
 
 12A. A drizzling mist set in during the night and con- 
 tinued this morning ; we set off in the dark, however, leav- 
 ing our last food for the havildar and sepoys who had not 
 yet come up. 
 
 13A. A good many stragglers behind, but we push on 
 to get food and send it back to them. The soil all reddish 
 clay, the roads baked hard by the sun, and the feet of many 
 of us are weary and sore ; a weary march and long, for it is 
 perpetually up and down now. We got to the brow of a 
 ridge about an hour from Mataka's first gardens, and all were 
 so tired that we remained to sleep; but we first invited 
 volunteers to go on and buy food, and bring it back early 
 next morning : they had to be pressed to do this duty. 
 
 \kth. As our volunteers did not come at 8 A. M., I set off 
 to see the cause, and after an hour of perpetual up and down 
 march, as I descended the steep slope which overlooks the 
 first gardens, I saw my friends start up at the apparition 
 they were comfortably cooking porridge for themselves ! I 
 sent men of Mataka back with food to the stragglers behind 
 and came on to his town. 
 
 An Arab, Sef Kupia or Eubea, head of a large body of 
 slaves, on his way to the coast, most kindly came forward 
 and presented an ox, bag of flour, and some cooked meat, 
 all of which were extremely welcome to half-famished men, 
 or indeed under any circumstances. He had heard of our 
 want of food and of a band of sepoys, and what could the 
 English think of doing but putting an end to the slave- 
 trade ? Had he seen our wretched escort, all fear of them 
 would have vanished ! He had a large safari or caravan 
 under him. This body is usually divided into ten or twelve 
 c
 
 58 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 portions, and all are bound to obey the leader to a certain 
 extent: in this case there were eleven parties, and the 
 traders numbered about sixty or seventy, who were dark 
 coast Arabs. Each underling had his men under him, 
 and when I saw them they were busy making the pens of 
 branches in which their slaves and they sleep. Sef came 
 on with me to Mataka's, and introduced me in due form 
 with discharges of gunpowder. 
 
 "We found Mataka's town situated in an elevated valley 
 surrounded by mountains; the houses numbered at least 
 1,000, and there were many villages around. The mountains 
 were pleasantly green, and had many trees which the people 
 were incessantly cutting down. They had but recently 
 come here : they were besieged by Mazitu at their former 
 location west of this; after fighting four days they left 
 un conquered, having beaten the enemy off. 
 
 Mataka kept us waiting some time in the veranda of his 
 large square house, and then made his appearance, smiling 
 with his good-natured face. He is about sixty years of age, 
 dressed as an Arab, and if we may judge from the laughter 
 with which his remarks were always greeted, somewhat 
 humorous. He had never seen any but Arabs before. He 
 gave me a square house to live in, indeed the most of the 
 houses here are square, for the Arabs are imitated in every- 
 thing. We stand a good deal of staring unmoved, though 
 it is often accompanied by remarks by no means complimen- 
 tary ; they think they are not understood, and probably I do 
 misunderstand sometimes. 
 
 15th. Soon after our arrival we heard that a number of 
 Mataka's Waiyau had, without his knowledge, gone to 
 Nyassa, and in a foray carried off cattle and people : when 
 they came home with the spoil, Mataka ordered all to be 
 sent back whence they came. The chief came up to visit me 
 soon after, and I told him that his decision was the best piece 
 of news I had heard in the country : he was evidently pleased 
 with my approbation; and, turning to his people, asked if 
 they heard what I said. He repeated my remark, and said,
 
 THE SEPOYS AND THEIR TIGER. 59 
 
 " You silly fellows think me wrong in returning the cap- 
 tives, but all wise men will approve of it," and he- then 
 scolded them roundly. 
 
 I was accidentally spectator of this party going back, for 
 on going out of the town I saw a meat market opened, and 
 people buying with maize and meal. On inquiring, I was 
 told that the people and cattle there were the Nyassas, 
 and they had slaughtered an ox, in order to exchange 
 meat for grain as provisions on the journey. The women 
 and children numbered fifty-four, and about a dozen boys 
 were engaged in milking the cows : the cattle were from 
 twenty -five to thirty head. 
 
 I gave Mataka a trinket, to be kept in remembrance of 
 his having sent back the Nyassa people: he replied that 
 he would always act in a similar manner. As it was a 
 spontaneous act, it was all the more valuable. 
 
 The sepoys have become quite intolerable, and if I cannot 
 get rid of them we shall all starve before we accomplish what 
 we wish. Retaining their brutal feelings to the last they 
 killed the donkey which I lent to the havildar to carry his 
 things, by striking it on the head when in boggy places 
 into which they had senselessly driven it loaded ; then the 
 havildar came on (his men pretending they could go no 
 further from weakness), and killed the young buffalo and 
 ate it when they thought they could hatch up a plausible 
 story. They said it had died, and tigers came and devoured 
 it they saw them. " Did you see the stripes of the tiger ? " 
 said I. All declared that they saw the stripes distinctly. 
 This gave us an idea of their truthfulness, as there is no 
 striped tiger in all Africa. All who resolved on skulking or 
 other bad behavior invariably took up with the sepoys; 
 their talk seemed to suit evil-doers, and they were such 
 a disreputable-looking lot that I was quite ashamed of 
 them. The havildar had no authority, and all bore the 
 sulky, dogged look of people going where they were forced 
 but hated to go. This hang-dog expression of countenance 
 was so conspicuous that I many a time have heard the
 
 00 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 country people remark, " These are the slaves of the party." 
 They have neither spirit nor pluck as compared with the 
 Africans, and if one saw a village he turned out of the way 
 to beg in the most abject manner, or lay down and slept, 
 the only excuse afterwards being, "My legs were sore." 
 Having allowed some of them to sleep at the fire in my 
 house, they began a wholesale plunder of everything they 
 could sell, as cartridges, cloths, and meat, so I had to eject 
 them. One of them then threatened to shoot my interpreter 
 Simon if he got him in a quiet place away from the English 
 power. As this threat had been uttered three times, and I 
 suspect that something of the kind had prevented the havildar 
 exerting his authority, I resolved to get rid of them by 
 sending them back to the coast by the first trader. I felt 
 inclined to force them on, but it would have been acting 
 from revenge, and to pay them out, so I forbore. I gave 
 Mataka forty -eight yards of calico, and to the sepoys eighteen 
 yards, and arranged that he should give them food till 
 Suleiman, a respectable trader, should arrive. The havildar 
 begged still to go on with me, and I consented, though he 
 is a drag on the party, but he will count in any difficulty. 
 
 Abraham recognized his uncle among the crowds who 
 came to see us. On making himself known he found that his 
 mother and two sisters had been sold to the Arabs after he 
 had been enslaved. The uncle pressed him to remain, and 
 Mataka urged, and so did another uncle, but in vain. I 
 added my voice, and could have given him goods to keep 
 him afloat a good while, but he invariably replied, " How 
 can I stop where I have no mother and no sister?" The 
 affection seems to go to the maternal side. I suggested that 
 he might come after he had married a wife, but I fear very 
 much that unless some European would settle, none of these 
 Nassick boys will come to this country. 
 
 llth-ZSth. One day, calling at Mataka's I found as usual 
 a large crowd of idlers, who always respond with a laugh to 
 everything he utters as wit. He asked, if he went to Bom- 
 bay what ought he to take to secure some gold ? I replied,
 
 AT MATAKA'S TOWN. 61 
 
 " Ivory ;" he rejoined, " Would slaves not be a good specula- 
 tion ? " 'I replied that, " if he took slaves there for sale, 
 they would put him in prison'." The idea of the great 
 Mataka in " chokee " made him wince, and the laugh turned 
 for once against him. 
 
 An immense tract of country lies uninhabited. To the 
 north-east of Moembe we have at least fifty miles of as fine 
 land as can be seen anywhere, still bearing all the marks of 
 having once supported a prodigious iron-smelting and grain- 
 growing population. The clay pipes which are put on the 
 nozzles of their bellows and inserted into the furnace are 
 met with everywhere often vitrified. Pieces of broken 
 pots, with their rims ornamented with very good imitations 
 of basket-work, attest that the lady potters of old followed 
 the example given them by their still more ancient mothers. 
 
 The abundance of water, the richness of soil, the available 
 labor for building square houses, the coolness of the climate, 
 make this nearly as desirable a residence as Magomero ; but, 
 alas ! instead of three weeks' easy sail up the Zambesi and 
 Shire, we have spent four weary months in getting here : I 
 shall never cease bitterly to lament the abandonment of the 
 Magomero mission. 
 
 Moaning seems a favorite way of spending the time with 
 some sick folk. For the sake of the warmth, I allowed a 
 Nassick boy to sleep in my house ; he and I had the same 
 complaint, dysentery, and I was certainly worse than he, but 
 did not moan, while he played at it as often as he was awake. 
 I told him that people moaned only when too ill to be 
 sensible of what they were doing; the groaning ceased, 
 though he became worse. 
 
 Three sepoys played at groaning very vigorously outside 
 my door ; they had nothing the matter with them, except 
 perhaps fatigue, which we all felt alike; as these fellows 
 prevented my sleeping, 1 told them quite civilly that, if so 
 ill that they required to groan, they had better move off a 
 little way, as I could not sleep ; they preferred the veranda, 
 and at once forbore.
 
 CHAPTER IY. 
 LAKE NYASSA KEVISITED. 
 
 JULY 28-TH, 1866. "We proposed to start to-day, but 
 Mataka said he was not ready yet : the flour had to be 
 ground, and he had given us no meat. He had sent plenty 
 of cooked food almost every day. He came on the 28th 
 with a good lot of flour for us, and men to guide us to 
 Nyassa, telling us that this was Moembe, and his district 
 extended all the way to the lake: he would not send us 
 to Losewa, as that place had lately been plundered and 
 burned. 
 
 On leaving Mataka's we ascended considerably, and about 
 the end of the first day's march, near Magola's village, the 
 barometer showed our greatest altitude, about 3400 feet 
 above the sea. There were villages of these mountaineers 
 everywhere, for the most part of 100 houses or more each. 
 The springs were made the most use of that they knew ; the 
 damp spots drained, and the water given a free channel for 
 use in irrigation further down. 
 
 29tfA. At Magola's village. Although we are now rid of 
 the sepoys, we cannot yet congratulate ourselves on being rid 
 of the lazy habits of lying down in the path which they 
 introduced. 
 
 BQlh. A short march brought us to Pezimba's village, 
 which consists of 200 houses and huts. It is placed ver} r 
 nicely on a knoll between two burns, which, as usual, are 
 made use of for irrigating peas in winter time. The 
 headman said that if we left now we had a good piece of
 
 ENCAMPMENT OF SLAVE-TRADERS. 63 
 
 jungle before us, and would sleep twice in it before reaching 
 Mbanga. We therefore remained. An Arab party, hearing 
 of our approach, took a circuitous route among the mountains 
 to avoid coming in contact with us. 
 
 31st. I had presented Pezimba with a cloth, so he cooked 
 for us handsomely last night, and this morning desired us to 
 wait a little as he had not yet sufficient meal made to present : 
 we waited and got a generous present. 
 
 In our morning's march we passed the last of the popu- 
 lation, and went on through a fine well-watered fruitful 
 country, to sleep near a , mountain called Mtewire. A very 
 large Arab slave-party was close by our encampment, and I 
 wished to speak to them ; but as soon as they knew of our 
 being near they set off in a pathless course across the country, 
 and were six days in the wilderness. 
 
 1st August, 1866. We saw the encampment of another 
 Arab party. It consisted of ten pens, each of which, from 
 the number of fires it contained, may have held from eighty 
 to a hundred slaves. This second party went across country 
 very early this morning. We saw the fire-sticks which the 
 slaves had borne with them. The fear they feel is altogether 
 the effect of the English name, for we have done nothing to 
 cause their alarm. 
 
 2nd. There was something very cheering to me in the 
 sight at our encampment of yellow grass and trees dotted 
 over it, as in the Bechuana country. The birds were singing 
 merrily too, inspired by the cold, which was 47, and by the 
 vicinity of some population. Marks of smiths are very 
 abundant and some furnaces are still standing. Much 
 cultivation must formerly have been where now all is jungle. 
 
 We arrived at Mbanga, a village embowered in trees. 
 Kandulo, the headman, had gone to drink beer at another 
 village, but sent orders to give a hut and to cook for us. 
 We remained next day. Took lunars. We had now passed 
 through, at the narrowest part, the hundred miles of 
 depopulated country, of which about seventy are of the 
 N. E. of Mataka.
 
 64- LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 4th. An hour and a half brought us to Miule, and the 
 chief pressing us to stay, on the plea of our sleeping two 
 nights in the jungle, instead of one if we left early next 
 morning, we consented. I asked him what had become of 
 the very large iron-smelting population of this region ; he 
 said many had died of famine, others had fled to the west of 
 Nyassa : the famine is the usual effect of slave wars, and 
 much death is thereby caused probably much more than by 
 the journey to the coast. 
 
 52A. "We left Miule, and commenced our march towards 
 Lake Nyassa, and slept at the last of the streams that flow 
 to the Loendi. 
 
 6th. We passed two cairns this morning at the beginning 
 of the very sensible descent to the lake. They are very 
 common in all this Southern Africa in the passes of the 
 mountains, and are meant to mark divisions of countries, 
 perhaps burial-places ; but the Waiyau who accompanied us 
 thought that they were merely heaps of stone collected by 
 some one making a garden. The cairns were placed just 
 about the spot where the blue waters of Nyassa first came 
 fairly into view. 
 
 8th. We came to the lake at the confluence of the Misinje, 
 and felt grateful to That Hand which had protected us thus 
 far on our journey. It was as if I had come back to an old 
 home I never expected again to see ; and pleasant to bathe in 
 the delicious waters again, hear the roar of the sea, and dash 
 in the rollers. I feel quite exhilarated. 
 
 The headman here, Mokalaose, is a real Manganja, and he 
 and all his people exhibit the greater darkness of color con- 
 sequent on being in a warm moist climate ; he is very friendly, 
 and presented millet, porridge, cassava, and hippopotamus 
 meat boiled and asked if I liked milk, as he had some of 
 Mataka's cattle here. 
 
 [It is necessary to explain that Livingstone knew of an 
 Arab settlement on the western shore of the lake, and that 
 he hoped to induce the chief man Jumbe to give him a pas- 
 sage to the other side.]
 
 MOKALAOSE AND HIS WIVES. 65 
 
 . I sent Seyed Majid's letter up to Jumbe, but the 
 messenger met some coast Arabs at the Loangwa, which may 
 be seven miles from this, and they came back with him, 
 haggling a deal about the fare, and then went off, saying that 
 they would bring the dhow here for us. Finding that they 
 did not come, I sent Musa, who brought back word that they 
 had taken the dhow away over to Jumbe at Kotakota. I 
 am resting myself and people working up journal, lunars, 
 and altitudes but will either move south or go to the Arabs 
 towards the north soon. 
 
 The Loangwa Arabs give an awful account of Jumbe's 
 murders and selling the people, but one cannot take it all in ; 
 at the mildest it must have been bad. 
 
 12A-14A. Map making ; but my energies were sorely 
 taxed by the lazy sepoys, and I was usually quite tired out 
 at night. Some men have come down from Mataka's, and 
 report the arrival of an Englishman with cattle for me ; " he 
 has two eyes behind as well as two in front :" this is enough 
 of news for awhile ! 
 
 Mokalaose has his little afflictions, and he tells me of them. 
 A wife ran away, I asked how many he had ; he told me 
 twenty in all : I then thought he had nineteen too many. 
 He answered with the usual reason, " But who would cook 
 for strangers if I had but one ?" 
 
 2Ist. Started for the Loangwa, on the east side of the 
 lake ; hilly all the way, about seven miles. We got a house 
 from a Waiyau man on a bank about forty feet above the 
 level of Nyassa, but I could not sleep for the manoevres of a 
 crowd of the minute ants which infested it. They chirrup 
 distinctly ; they would not allow the men to sleep either, 
 though all were pretty tired by the rough road up. 
 
 %3rd. Proposed to the Waiyau headman to send a canoe 
 over to call Jumbe, as I did not believe in the assertions of 
 the half-caste Arab here that he had sent for his. All the 
 Waiyau had helped me, and why not he ? He was pleased 
 with this, but advised waiting till a man sent to Losewa 
 should return.
 
 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 . A leopard took a dog out of a house next to ours ; 
 he had bitten a man before, but not mortally. 
 
 29^. News come that the two dhows have come over to 
 Losewa. The Mazitu had chased Jumbe up the hills : had 
 they said, on to an island, I might have believed them. 
 
 30tfA. The fear which the English have inspired in the 
 Arab slave-traders is rather inconvenient. All flee from me 
 as if I had the plague, and I cannot in consequence transmit 
 letters to the coast, or get across the lake. They seem to 
 think that if I get into a dhow I will be sure to burn it. As 
 the two dhows on the lake are used for nothing else but the 
 slave-trade, their owners have no hope of my allowing them 
 to escape ; so after we have listened to various lies as excuses, 
 we resolve to go southwards. 
 
 3rd September, 1866. Went down to confluence of the 
 Misinje and came to many of the eatable insect " kungu." 
 We got a cake of these same insects further down ; they 
 make a buzz like a swarm of bees. 
 
 The poodle dog Chitane is rapidly changing the color of 
 its hair. All the parts corresponding to the ribs and neck 
 are rapidly becoming red ; the majority of country dogs are 
 of this color. 
 
 I gave Mokalaose some pumpkin seed and peas. He took 
 me into his house, and presented a quantity of beer. I 
 drank a little, and seeing me desist from taking more, he 
 asked if I wished a servant-girl to "pata nimba" Not 
 knowing what was meant, I offered the girl the calabash of 
 beer, and told her to drink, but this was not the intention. 
 He asked if I did not wish more ; and then took the vessel, 
 and as he drank the girl performed the operation on himself. 
 Placing herself in front, she put both hands round his waist 
 below the short ribs, and pressing gradually drew them round 
 to his belly in front. He took several prolonged draughts, 
 and at each she repeated the operation, as if to make the 
 liquor go equally over the stomach. Our topers don't seem 
 to have discovered the need for this. 
 
 8th. We passed very many sites of old villages, which
 
 DESERTED VILLAGES LAKE NYASSA. 67 
 
 are easily known by the tree euphorbia planted round an 
 umbelliferous one, and the sacred fig. One species here 
 throws out strong buttresses in the manner of some man- 
 groves instead of sending down twiners which take root, as 
 is usually the case with the tropical fig. These, with mill- 
 stones stones for holding the pots in cooking and upraised 
 clay benches, which have been turned into brick by fire in 
 the destruction of the huts, show what were once the "pleas- 
 ant haunts of men." No stone implements ever appear. 
 
 Here the destruction is quite recent, and has been brought 
 about by some who entertained us very hospitably on the 
 Misinje. It was wearisome to see the skulls and bones scat- 
 tered about everywhere ; one would fain not notice them, 
 bat they are so striking as one trudges along the sultry path, 
 that it cannot be avoided. 
 
 9tk. We spent Sunday at Kandango's village. 
 
 10A. After spending the night at a very civil headman's 
 chef u, we crossed the Lotende, another of these torrents : 
 each very lofty mass in the range seemed to give rise to one. 
 Nothing of interest occurred as we trudged along. A very 
 poor headman, Pamawawa, presented a roll of salt instead of 
 food : this was grateful to us, as we have been without that 
 luxury some time. 
 
 13th. In the course of this day's inarch we were pushed 
 close to the lake by Mount Gome, and, being now within 
 three miles of the end of the lake, we could see the whole 
 plainly. There we first saw the Shire emerge, and there 
 also we first gazed on the broad waters of Nyassa. 
 
 Many hopes have been disappointed here. Far down on 
 the right bank of the Zambesi lies the dust of her whose 
 death changed all my future prospects ; and now, instead of 
 a check being given to the slave-trade by lawful commerce 
 on the lake, slave-dhows prosper 1 
 
 An Arab slave-party fled on hearing of us yesterday. It 
 is impossible not to regret the loss of good Bishop Mackenzie, 
 who sleeps far down the Shire, and witli him all hope of the 
 Gospel being introduced into Central Africa. The silly
 
 68 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 abandonment of all the advantages of the Shire route by the 
 Bishop' s successor I shall ever bitterly deplore, but all will 
 come right some day, though I may not live to participate in 
 the joy, or even see the commencement of better times. 
 
 In the evening we reached the village of Cherekalongwa, 
 and were very jovially received by the headman with beer. 
 
 lth. At Cherekalongwa's we were requested to remain 
 one day in order that he might see us. He had heard much 
 about us ; had been down the Shire, and as far as Mozam- 
 bique, but never had an Englishman in his town before. As 
 the heat is great we were glad of the rest and beer, with 
 which he very freely supplied us. 
 
 15A. We marched three hours southwards, then up the 
 hills of the range which flanks all the lower part of the lake. 
 The population near the chief is large, and all the heights as 
 far as the eye can reach are crowned with villages. The 
 people live amidst plenty. All the chiefs visited by the 
 Arabs have good substantial square houses built for their 
 accommodation. Mukate, the chief, never saw a European 
 before, and everything about us is an immense curiosity to 
 him and to his people. We had long visits from him. He 
 tries to extract a laugh out of every remark. He is darker 
 than the generality of Waiyau, with a full beard trained on 
 the chin, as all the people hereabouts have Arab fashion. 
 The courts of his women cover a large space, our house being 
 on one side of them. I tried to go out that way, but wan- 
 dered ; so the ladies sent a servant to conduct me out in the 
 direction I wished to go, and we found egress by passing 
 through some huts with two doors in them. 
 
 16th. At Mukate's. The Prayer Book does not give ig- 
 norant persons any idea of an unseen Being addressed, it 
 looks more like reading or speaking to the book : kneeling 
 and praying with eyes shut is better than our usual way of 
 holding Divine service. 
 
 We had a long discussion about the slave-trade. The 
 Arabs have told the chief that our object in capturing slavers 
 is to get them into our own possession, and make them of
 
 AT MPONDA'S HALT OF A SLAVE-GANG. 69 
 
 our own religion. It is but little we can do, but we lodge a 
 protest in the heart against a vile system, and time may ripen 
 it. Their great argument is, " What could we do without 
 Arab cloth ?" My answer is, " Do what you did before the 
 Arabs came into the country." At the present rate of 
 destruction of population, the country will soon be a desert. 
 
 Ylth. We marched down from Mukate's and to about the 
 middle of the Lakelet Pamalombe. M ukate had no people 
 with canoes near the usual crossing place,, and he sent a 
 messenger to see that we were fairly served. 
 
 18A. We embarked the whole party in eight canoes, and 
 went up the lake to the point of junction between it and the 
 prolongation of Nyassa above it, which took us two hours. 
 A fishing party there fled on seeing us, though we shouted 
 that we were a traveling party (or " Olendo "). 
 
 Mukate's people here left us, and I walked up to the village 
 of the fugitives with one attendant only. Their suspicions 
 were so thoroughly aroused that they would do nothing. 
 The headman was said to be absent ; they could not lend us 
 a hut, but desired us to go on to Mponda's. We put up a 
 shed for ourselves, and next morning, though we pressed 
 them for a guide, no one would come. 
 
 19tfA. When we had proceeded a mile this morning we 
 came to 300 people making salt on a plain impregnated with 
 it. They lixiviate the soil and boil the water, which has 
 filtered through a bunch of grass in a hole in the bottom of 
 a pot, till all is evaporated and a mass of salt left. We held 
 along the plain till we came to Mponda's, a large village, 
 with a stream running past. The plain at the village is very 
 fertile, and has many large trees on it. Mponda is a blustering 
 sort of person, but immensely interested in everything Eu- 
 ropean. He says that he would like to go with me. " Would 
 not care though he were away ten years." I say that he 
 may die in the journey. " He will die here as well as there, 
 but he will see all the wonderful doings of our country." He 
 knew me, having come to the boat, to take a look incognito 
 when we were here formerly.
 
 70 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 We found an Arab slave-party here, and went to look 
 at the slaves; seeing this, Mponda was alarmed lest we 
 should proceed to violence in his town, but I said to him 
 that we went to look only. Eighty-five slaves were in a 
 pen formed of dura stalks. The majority were boys of about 
 eight or ten years of age ; others were grown men and 
 women. Nearly all were in the taming-stick ; a few of the 
 younger ones were in thongs, the thong passing round the 
 neck of each. Several pots were on the fires cooking dura 
 and beans. A crowd went with us, expecting a scene, but I 
 sat down, and asked a few questions about the journey, 
 in front. The slave-party consisted of five or six half-caste 
 coast Arabs, who said that they came from Zanzibar ; but the 
 crowd made such a noise that we could not hear ourselves 
 speak. I asked if they had any objections to my looking at 
 the slaves ; the owners pointed out the different slaves, and 
 said that after feeding them, and accounting for the losses 
 in the way to the coast, they made little by the trip. I said 
 to them it was a bad business altogether. They presented 
 fowls to me in the evening. 
 
 2(tfA. The chief begged so hard that I would stay another 
 day and give medicine to a sick child, that I consented. He 
 promised plenty of food, and, as an earnest of his sincerity, 
 sent an immense pot of beer in the evening. The child had 
 been benefited by the medicine given yesterday. He offered 
 more food than we chose to take. 
 
 The agricultural class does not seem to be a servile one : 
 all cultivate, and the work is esteemed. The chief was 
 out at his garden when we arrived, and no disgrace is attached 
 to the field laborer. The slaves very likely do the chief part 
 of the work, but all engage in it, and are proud of their 
 skill. A lion killed a woman early yesterday morning, and 
 ate most of her undisturbed. 
 
 It is getting very hot ; the ground to the feet of the men 
 " burns like fire " after noon, so we are now obliged to make 
 short marches, and early in the morning chiefly. 
 
 Wikatani Bishop Mackenzie's favorite boy met a brother
 
 WIZATANI DISCOVERS HIS RELATIONS. 71 
 
 here, and he finds that he has an elder brother and a sister at 
 Kabinga's. The father who sold him into slavery is dead. 
 He wishes to stop with his relatives, and it will be well if he 
 does. Though he has not much to say, what he does advance 
 against the slave-trade will have its weight, and it will be all 
 in the way of preparation for better times and more light. 
 
 The elder brother was sent for, but had not arrived when 
 it was necessary for us to leave Mponda's on the Rivulet 
 Ntemangokwe. I therefore gave Wikatani some cloth, a 
 flint gun instead of the percussion one he carried, some flints, 
 paper to write upon, and commended him to Mponda's care 
 till his relatives arrived. He had lately shown a good deal 
 of levity, and perhaps it is best that he should have a touch 
 of what the world is in reality. 
 
 The lines of tattoo of the different tribes serve for orna- 
 ments, and are resorted to most by the women ; it is a sort 
 of heraldry closely resembling the Highland tartans.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 WESTWARD FKOM NYASSA. 
 
 QEPTEMBER 21sT, 1866. We marched westwards, making 
 O across the base of Cape Maclear. Two men employed 
 as guides and carriers, went along grumbling that their 
 dignity was so outraged by working " only fancy Waiyau 
 carrying like slaves ! !" They went but a short distance, and 
 took advantage of my being in front to lay down the loads, 
 one of which consisted of the havildar's bed and cooking 
 things ; here they opened the other bundle and paid them- 
 selves the gallant havildar sitting and looking on. He has 
 never been of the smallest use, and lately has pretended to 
 mysterious pains in his feet ; no swelling or other symptom 
 accompanied this complaint. On coming to Pima's village 
 he ate a whole fowl and some fish for supper, slept soundly 
 till daybreak, then on awaking commenced a furious groaning 
 " his feet were so bad." I told him that people usually 
 moaned when insensible, but he had kept quiet till he awaked ; 
 he sulked at this, and remained all day, though I sent a man 
 to carry his kit for him, and when he came up he had changed 
 the seat of his complaint from his feet to any part of his 
 abdomen. He gave off his gun-belt and pouch to the carrier. 
 This was a blind to me, for I examined and found that he 
 had already been stealing and selling his ammunition : this is 
 all preparatory to returning to the coast with some slave- 
 trader. Nothing can exceed the ease and grace with which 
 sepoys can glide from a swagger into the most abject begging 
 of food from the villagers. He has remained behind.
 
 ARRIVAL AT MARENGA'S TOW& Y3 
 
 . We had a "Waiyau party with us six handsomely- 
 attired women carried huge pots of beer for their husbands, 
 who very liberally invited us to partake. After seven hours' 
 hard traveling we came to the village, where we spend 
 Sunday. The chief, a one-eyed man, was rather coy coming 
 incognito to visit us ; and, as I suspected that he was present, 
 I asked if the chief were an old woman, afraid to look at and 
 welcome a stranger ? All burst into a laugh, and looked at 
 him, when he felt forced to join in it, and asked what sort 
 of food we liked best. Chumah put this clear enough by 
 saying, " He eats everything eaten by the Waiyau." 
 
 24tfA. We went only 2 miles to the village of Marenga, 
 a very large one, situated at the eastern edge of the bottom 
 of the heel of the lake. The chief is ill of a loathsome 
 disease derived direct from the Arabs. 
 
 The bogs, or earthen sponges, of this country occupy a 
 most important part in its physical geography, and probably 
 explain the annual inundations of most of the rivers. 
 Wherever a plain sloping towards a narrow opening in hills 
 or higher grounds exists, there we have the conditions 
 requisite for the formation of an African sponge. The 
 vegetation, not being of a heathy or peat-forming kind, falls 
 down, rots, and then forms rich black loam. In many cases 
 a mass of this loam, two or three feet thick, rests on a bed of 
 pure river sand, which is revealed by crabs and other aquatic 
 animals bringing it to the surface. At present, in the dry 
 season, the black loam is cracked in all directions, and the 
 cracks are often as much as three inches wide, and very 
 deep. The whole surface has now fallen down, and rests on 
 the sand, but when the xains come, the first supply is nearly 
 all absorbed in the sand. The black loam forms soft slush, 
 and floats on the sand. The narrow opening prevents it 
 from moving off in a landslip, but an oozing spring rises at 
 that spot. 
 
 25A. Marenga's town on the west shore of Lake Nyassa 
 is very large, and his people collected in great numbers to 
 gaze at the stranger. The chief's brother asked a few 
 P
 
 74 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 questions, and I took the occasion to be a good one for telling 
 him something about the Bible and the future state. The 
 men said that their fathers had never told them aught about 
 the soul, but they thought that the whole man rotted and 
 came to nothing. "What I said was very nicely put by a 
 volunteer spokesman, who seemed to have a gift that way, 
 for all listened most attentively, and especially when told 
 that our Father in Heaven loved all, and heard prayers 
 addressed to Him. 
 
 Marenga came dressed in a red-figured silk shawl, and 
 attended by about ten court beauties, who spread a mat for 
 him, then a cloth above, and sat down as if to support him. 
 He asked me to examine his case inside a hut. He exhibited 
 his loathsome skin disease, and being blacker than his wives, 
 the blotches with which he was covered made him appear 
 very ugly. He thought that the disease was not in the 
 country before Arabs came. Another new disease acquired 
 from them was the small-pox. 
 
 26th. An Arab passed us yesterday. He told Musa that 
 all the country in front was full of Mazitu ; that forty -four 
 Arabs and their followers had been killed by them at 
 Kasungu, and he only escaped. Musa and all the Johanna 
 men now declared that they would go no farther. Musa said, 
 " No good country that ; I want to go back to Johanna to 
 see my father and mother and son." I took him to Marenga, 
 and asked the chief about the Mazitu. He explained that 
 the disturbance was caused by the Manganja finding that 
 Jumbe brought Arabs and ammunition into the country 
 every year, and they resented it in consequence ; they would 
 not allow more to come, because they were the sufferers, and 
 their nation was getting destroyed. 
 
 I explained to Musa that we should avoid the Mazitu : 
 Marenga added, " There are no Mazitu near where you are 
 going ;" but Musa's eyes stood out with terror, and he said, 
 " I no can believe that man." But I inquired, " How can 
 you believe the Arab so easily ?" Musa answered, " I ask 
 him to tell me true, and he say true, true," etc.
 
 THE JOHANNA MEN DESERT. ^5 
 
 When we started, all the Johanna men walked off, leaving 
 the goods on the ground. They have been such inveterate 
 thieves that I am not sorry to get rid of them ; for though 
 my party is now inconveniently small, I could not trust 
 them with flints in their guns, nor allow them to remain 
 behind, for their object was invariably to plunder their 
 loads. 
 
 [Here then we have Livingstone's account of the origin of 
 Musa's well-told story of the explorer's murder by Mazitu.] 
 
 With our goods in canoes we went round the bottom of 
 the heel of Nyassa, slept among reeds, and next morning 
 (27th) landed at Msangwa. A man had been taken off by a 
 crocodile last night; he had been drinking beer, and went 
 down to the water to cool himself, where he lay down, and 
 the brute seized him. The water was very muddy, being 
 stirred up by an east wind, which lashed the waves into our 
 canoes, and wetted our things. The loud wail of the women 
 is very painful to hear ; it sounds so dolefully. 
 
 28tfA. We reached Kimsusa's. The chief was absent, but 
 he was sent for immediately. His town has much increased 
 since I saw it last. 
 
 29A. Another Arab passed last night, with the tale that 
 his slaves had all been taken from him by the Mazitu. 
 I propose to go west of this among the Maravi until 
 quite away beyond the disturbances, whether of Mazitu or 
 Manganja. 
 
 Wth. We enjoy our Sunday here. We have abundance 
 of food from Kimsusa's wife. The chief wished me to go 
 alone and enjoy his drinking bout, and then we could return 
 to this place together ; but this was not to my taste. 
 
 \st October, 1866. Kimsusa came this morning, and 
 seemed very glad again to see his old friend. He sent off at 
 once to bring an enormous ram, which had either killed or 
 seriously injured a man. The animal came tied to a pole to 
 keep him off the man who held it, while a lot more carried 
 him. He was prodigiously fat ; this is a true African way 
 of showing love plenty of fat and beer, Accordingly the
 
 Y6 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 chief brought a huge basket of " pombe," the native beer, 
 and another of " nsima," or porridge, and a pot of cooked 
 meat; to these were added a large basket of maize. So 
 much food had been brought to us, that we had at last to 
 explain that we could not carry it. 
 
 Kimsusa speaks more rationally about the Deity than 
 some have done, and adds, that it was by following the 
 advice which I gave him the last time I saw him, and not 
 selling his people, that his village is now three times its 
 former size. He has another village besides, and he was 
 desirous that I should see that too ; that was the reason he 
 invited me to come, but the people would come and visit me. 
 
 27w Kimsusa made his appearance early with a huge 
 basket of beer, 18 inches high and 15 inches in diameter. 
 He served it out for a time, taking deep draughts himself, 
 becoming extremely loquacious in consequence. He took us 
 to a dense thicket behind his town, among numbers of lofty 
 trees, many of which I have seen nowhere else. A space 
 had been cleared, and we were taken to this shady spot as 
 the one in which business of importance and secrecy is 
 transacted. Another enormous basket of beer was brought 
 here by his wives, but there was little need for it, for 
 Kimsusa talked incessantly, and no business was done. 
 
 3rd. The chief came early, and sober. I rallied him on 
 his previous loquacity, and said one ought to find time in the 
 morning if business was to be done : he took it in good part, 
 and one of his wives joined in bantering him. She is the 
 wife, and mother of the sons in whom he delights, and who 
 will succeed him. Kimsusa said he would give me carriers 
 to go up to the Maravi, but he wished to be prepaid : to this 
 I agreed, but even then he could not prevail on anyone to go. 
 
 th. A woman turned up here, and persuaded Chumah 
 that she was his aunt. He wanted to give her at once a 
 fathom of calico and beads, and wished me to cut his pay 
 down for the purpose. I persuaded him to be content with 
 a few beads for her. He gave her his spoon and some other 
 valuables, fully persuaded that she was a relative, though he
 
 KIMSUSA SOLVES A DIFFICULTY. 77 
 
 was interrogated first as to his father's name, and tribe, etc., 
 before she declared herself. It shows a most forgiving 
 disposition on the part of these boys to make presents to 
 those who, if genuine relations, actually sold them. But 
 those who have been caught young know nothing of the 
 evils of slavery, and do not believe in its ills. 
 
 5th. The chief came early with an immense basket of 
 beer, as usual. We were ready to start : he did not relish 
 this ; but I told him it was clear that his people set very 
 light by his authority. He declared that he would force 
 them or go himself, with his wives as carriers. This dawd- 
 ling and guzzling had a bad effect on my remaining people. 
 Simon, a Nassick lad, for instance, overheard two words 
 which he understood ; these were " Mazitu " and " lipululu," 
 or desert; and from these he conjured up a picture of 
 Mazitu rushing out upon us from the jungle, and killing all 
 without giving us time to say a word ! To this he added 
 scraps of distorted information : Khambuiri was a very bad 
 chief in front, etc., all showing egregious cowardice ; yet he 
 came to give me advice. On asking what he knew, he 
 replied that he had heard the above two words, and that 
 Chumah could not translate them, but he had caught them, 
 and came to warn me. 
 
 The chief asked me to stay to-day, and he would go with 
 his wives to-morrow; I was his friend, and he would not see 
 me in difficulties without doing his utmost. He says that 
 there is no danger of our not finding people for carrying 
 loads. 
 
 6th. We marched about seven miles to the north to a 
 village. It was very hot. Kimsusa behaves like a king: 
 his strapping wives came' to carry loads, and shame his 
 people. Many of the young men turned out and took the 
 loads, but it was evident that they feared retaliation if they 
 ventured up the pass. One wife carried beer, another meal ; 
 and as soon as we arrived, cooking commenced : porridge 
 and roasted goat's flesh made a decent meal. Kimsusa 
 delights in showing me to his people as his friend. If I
 
 fg LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOUKNALS. 
 
 could have used his pombe, or beer, it would have put some 
 fat on ray bones, but it requires a strong digestion ; many 
 of the chiefs and their wives live on it almost entirely. 
 
 1th. I heard hooping-cough in the village. We found 
 our visitors so disagreeable that I was glad to march ; they 
 were Waiyau, and very impudent, demanding gun or game 
 medicine to enable them to shoot well : they came into the 
 hut uninvited, and would take no denial. 
 
 A Manganja man, who formerly presented us with the 
 whole haul of his net, came and gave me four fowls : some 
 really delight in showing kindness. When we came near 
 the bottom of the pass Tapiri, Kimsusa's men became loud 
 against his venturing further ; he listened, then burst away 
 from them : he listened again, then did the same ; and as he 
 had now got men for us, I thought it better to let him go. 
 
 In three hours and a quarter we had made a clear ascent of 
 2200 feet above the lake. The first persons we met were two 
 men and a boy, who were out hunting with a dog and basket- 
 trap. This is laid down in the run of some small animal ; the 
 dog chases it, and it goes into the basket which is made of split 
 bamboo, and has prongs looking inwards, which prevent its 
 egress : mouse traps are made in the same fashion. 
 
 8th. At the first village we found that the people up here 
 and those down below were mutually afraid of each other. 
 Kimsusa came to the bottom of the range, his last act being 
 the ofier of a pot of beer, and a calabash of Toku, which 
 latter was accepted. I paid his wives for carrying our things : 
 they had done well, and after we had gained the village 
 where we slept, sang and clapped their hands vigorously till 
 one o'clock in the morning, when I advised them to go to 
 sleep. The men he at last provided were very faithful and 
 easily satisfied. Here we found the headman, Kawa, of 
 Mpalapala, quite as hospitable. Resting on the 8th to make 
 up for the loss of rest on Sunday ; we marched on Tuesday 
 (the 9th), but were soon brought to a stand by Gombwa, 
 whose village, Tamiala, stands on another ridge. 
 
 Gombwa, a laughing, good-natured man, said that he had
 
 AMONG THE MOUNTAINS. 79 
 
 sent for all his people to see me ; and I ought to sleep, to 
 enable them to look on one the like of whom had never come 
 their way before. Intending to go on, I explained some of 
 my objects in coming through the country, advising the 
 people to refrain from selling each other, as it ends in war 
 and depopulation. He was cunning, and said, " Well, you 
 must sleep here, and all my people will come and hear those 
 words of peace." I explained that I had employed carriers, 
 who expected to be paid though I had gone but a small part 
 of a day; he replied, "But they will go home and come 
 again to-morrow, and it will count but one day :" I was thus 
 constrained to remain. 
 
 $th. Both barometer and boiling-point showed an altitude 
 of upwards of 4000 feet above the sea. This is the hottest 
 month, but the air is delightfully clear, and delicious. The 
 country is very fine, lying in long slopes, with mountains 
 rising all around, from 2000 to 3000 feet above this upland. 
 At every turning we meet people, or see their villages ; all 
 armed with bows and arrows. Many carry large knives of 
 fine iron ; and indeed the metal is abundant. Young men 
 and women wear the hair long, a mass of small ringlets 
 comes down and rests on the shoulders, giving them the ap- 
 pearance of the ancient Egyptians. One side is often culti- 
 vated, and the mass hangs jauntily on that side ; some few 
 have a solid cap of it. 
 
 We were invited by Gombwa in the afternoon to speak the 
 same words to his people that we used to himself in the 
 morning. He nudged a boy to respond, which is considered 
 polite, though he did it only with a rough hem ! at the end 
 of each sentence. As for our general discourse we mention 
 our relationship to our Father : His love to all His children 
 the guilt of selling any of His children the consequence ; 
 e. g. it begets war, for they don't like to sell their own, and 
 steal from other villagers, who retaliate. Arabs and Waiyau 
 invited into the country by their selling, foster feuds, and 
 war and depopulation ensue. We mention the Bible 
 future state prayer : advise union, that they should unite as
 
 g(3 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 one family to expel enemies, who came first as slave-traders, 
 and ended by leaving the country a wilderness. In refer- 
 ence to union, we showed that they ought to have seen justice 
 done to the man who lost his wife and child at their very 
 doors ; but this want of cohesion is the bane of the Manganja. 
 If the evil does not affect themselves they don't care whom 
 it injures. 
 
 10th. Kawa and his people were with ns early this morn- 
 ing, and we started from Tamiala with them. The weather 
 is lovely, and the scenery, though at present tinged with 
 yellow from the grass, might be called glorious. The bright 
 sun and delicious air are quite exhilarating. On resting by 
 a dark sepulchral grove, a tree attracted the attention, as 
 nowhere else seen: it is called Bokonto, and said to bear 
 eatable fruit. Many fine flowers were just bursting into full 
 blossom. After about four hours' march we put up at 
 Chitimba, the village of Kangomba, and were introduced by 
 Kawa, who came all the way for the purpose. 
 
 1.1th. A very cold morning, with a great bank of black 
 clouds in the east, whence the wind came. The huts are 
 built very well. The roof, with the lower part plastered, is 
 formed so as not to admit a ray of light, and the only visible 
 mode of ingress for it is by the door. This case shows that 
 winter is cold : on proposing to start, breakfast was not ready : 
 then a plan was formed to keep me another day at a village 
 close by, belonging to one Kulu, a man of Kauma, to whom 
 we go next. It was effectual, and here we are detained 
 another day. 
 
 12tk. "We march westerly, with a good deal of southing. 
 Kulu gave us a goat, and cooked liberally for us all. He set 
 off with us as if to go to Kauma's in our company, but after 
 we had gone a couple of miles he slipped behind, and ran 
 away. Some are naturally mean, and some naturally noble : 
 the mean cannot help showing their nature, nor can the noble ; 
 but the noble-hearted must enjoy life most. Kulu got a 
 cloth, and he gave us at least its value ; but he thought he 
 had got more than he gave, and so by running away that he
 
 NATIVE AGRICULTURE. 81 
 
 had done us nicely, without troubling himself to go and in- 
 troduce us to Kauma. I usually request a headman of a 
 village to go with us. They give a good report of us, if for 
 no other reason than for their own credit, because no one 
 likes to be thought giving his countenance to people other 
 than respectable, and it costs little. 
 
 We came close to the foot of several squarish mountains, 
 having perpendicular sides. One, called "Ulazo pa Ma- 
 lungo," is used by the people, whose villages cluster round 
 its base as a storehouse for grain. Large granaries stand on 
 its top, containing food to be used in case of war. A large 
 cow is kept up there, which is supposed capable of knowing 
 and letting the owners know when war is coming. There is 
 a path up, but it was not visible to us. 
 
 We spent the night at a Kanthunda village on the western 
 side of a mountain called Phunze. Many villages are planted 
 round its base, but in front, that is, westwards, we have 
 plains, and there the villages are as numerous : mostly they 
 are within half a mile of each other, and few are a mile from 
 other hamlets. Each village has a clump of trees around it. 
 
 All the people are engaged at present in making mounds 
 six or eight feet square, and from two to three feet high. 
 The sods in places not before hoed are separated from the 
 soil beneath and collected into flattened heaps, the grass 
 undermost; when dried, fire is applied and slow combus- 
 tion goes on ; most of the products of the burning being 
 retained in the ground, much of the soil is incinerated. The 
 final preparation is effected by the men digging up the 
 subsoil round the mound, passing each hoeful into the left 
 hand, where it pulverizes, and is then thrown on to the 
 heap. It is thus virgin soil on the top of the ashes and 
 burned ground of the original heap, very clear of weeds. 
 At present many mounds have beans and maize about 
 four inches high. 
 
 13tfA. Kauma, a fine tall man, with a bald head and pleas- 
 ant manners, told us that some of his people had lately 
 returned from the Chibisa or Babisa country, whither they
 
 82 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 had gone to buy ivory, and they would give me information 
 about the path. He took a fancy to one of the boys' blank- 
 ets ; offering a native cloth, much larger, in exchange, and 
 even a sheep to boot ; but the owner being unwilling to part 
 with his covering, Kauma told me that he had not sent for 
 his Babisa travelers on account of my boy refusing to deal 
 with him. A little childish this, but otherwise he was very 
 hospitable ; he gave me a fine goat, which, unfortunately, my 
 people left behind. 
 
 142A. Spent Sunday here. The population is very great 
 and very ceremonious. When we meet anyone he turns 
 aside and sits down : we clap the hand on the chest and say, 
 "Re peta re peta," that is, "we pass," or let us pass:" 
 this is responded to at once by a clapping of the hands 
 together. When a person is called at a distance he gives two 
 loud claps of assent ; or if he rises from near a superior he 
 does the same thing, which is a sort of leave-taking. 
 
 We have to ask who are the principal chiefs in the 
 direction which we wish to take, and decide accordingly. 
 Zomba was pointed out as a chief on a range of hills on 
 our west : beyond him lies Undi m'senga. I had to take 
 this route, as my people have a very vivid idea of the 
 danger of going northwards towards the Mazitu. We made 
 more southing than we wished. 
 
 We rested at Pachoma ; the headman offering a goat 
 and beer, but I declined, and went on to Molomba. Here 
 Kauma's carriers turned because a woman had died that 
 morning as we left the village. They asserted that had she 
 died before we started not a man would have left : this shows 
 a reverence for death, for the woman was no relative of any 
 of them. The headman of Molomba was very poor but 
 very liberal, cooking for us and presenting a goat ; another 
 headman from a neighboring village, a laughing, good- 
 natured old man, named Chikala, brought beer and a fowl 
 in the morning. I asked him to go on with us to Mironga, 
 it being important, as above mentioned, to have the like of 
 his kind in our company, and he consented.
 
 THE HEADMAN THERESA. 83 
 
 16th. Crossed the Rivulet Chiknyo and went on to 
 Chipanga : this is the proper name of what on the Zambesi 
 is corrupted into Shupanga. The headman, a miserable 
 hernp consuming leper, fled from us. We were offered a 
 miserable hut, which we refused ; Chikala meanwhile went 
 through the whole village seeking a better, which we ulti- 
 mately found : it was not in this chief to be generous, though 
 Chikala did what he could in trying to indoctrinate him : 
 when I gave him a present he immediately proposed to sett 
 a goat ! We got on pretty well however. 
 
 Passing on we came to a smithy, and watched the founder 
 at work drawing off slag from the bottom of his furnace. 
 He broke through the hardened slag by striking it with an 
 iron instrument inserted in the end of a pole, when the 
 material flowed out of the small hole left for the purpose in 
 the bottom of the furnace. The ore (probably the black 
 oxide) was like sand, and was put in at the top of the furnace, 
 mixed with charcoal. Only one bellows was at work, formed 
 out of a goatskin, and the blast was very poor. Many of 
 these furnaces or their remains, are met with on knolls; 
 those at work have a peculiarly tall hut built over them. 
 
 On the eastern edge of a valley lying north and south, 
 are two villages screened by fine specimens of the Ficus 
 Indica. One of these is owned by the headman Theresa, and 
 there we spent the night. The people look very poor, hav- 
 ing few or no beads ; the ornaments being lines and cuttings 
 on the skin. They trust more to buaze than cotton. I 
 noticed but two cotton patches. The women are decidedly 
 plain; but monopolize all the buaze cloth. Theresa was 
 excessively liberal, and having informed us that Zomba 
 lived some distance up the range and was not the principal 
 man in these parts, we, to avoid climbing the hills, turned 
 away to the north, in the direction of the paramount chief, 
 Chisumpi, whom we found to be only traditionally great. 
 
 20A. In passing along we came to a village embowered 
 in fine trees ; the headman is Kaveta, a really fine specimen 
 of the Kanthunda, tall, well-made, with a fine forehead and
 
 84: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Assyrian nose. He proposed to us to remain over night with 
 him, and I unluckily declined. 
 
 Convoying us out a mile, we parted with this gentleman, 
 and then came to a smith's village, where the same invitation 
 was given and refused. A sort of infatuation drove us on, 
 and after a long hot march we found the great Chisumpi, 
 the fac-simile in black of Sir Colin Campbell^ his nose, 
 mouth, and the numerous wrinkles on his face were identical 
 with those of the great General, but here all resemblance 
 ceased. Two men had preceded us to give information, and 
 when I followed I saw that his village was one of squalid 
 misery, the only fine things about being the lofty trees in 
 which it lay. Chisumpi begged me to sleep at a village 
 about half a mile behind : his son was brow-beating him on 
 some domestic affair, and the older man implored me to go. 
 Next morning he came early to that village, and arranged 
 for our departure, offering nothing, and apparently not 
 wishing to see us at all. I suspect that though paramount 
 chief, he is weak-minded, and has lost thereby all his 
 influence, but in the people's eyes he is still a great one. 
 
 Several of my men exhibiting symptoms of distress, 
 I inquired for a village in which we could rest Saturday 
 and Sunday, and at a distance from Chisumpi. A head- 
 man volunteered to lead us to one west of this. In passing 
 the sepulchral grove of Chisumpi our guide remarked, 
 "Chisumpi's forefathers sleep there." This was the first 
 time I have heard the word " sleep " applied to death in these 
 parts. 
 
 "We found Chitikola's village, called Paritala, a pleasant 
 one on the east side of the Adiampwe Yalley. Many ele- 
 phants and other animals feed in the valley, and we saw the 
 Bechuana Hopo again after many years. 
 
 Chitikola was absent from Paritala when we arrived on 
 some milando or other. These milandos are the business of 
 their ^lives. They are like petty lawsuits ; if one trespasses 
 on his neighbor's rights in any way it is a milando, and 
 the headmen of all the villages about are called on to
 
 CHITIKOLA RETURNS FROM MILANDO. 85 
 
 settle it. Women are a fruitful source of milando. A 
 few ears of Indian corn had been taken by a person, and 
 Chitikola had been called a full day's journey off to settle 
 this milando. He administered Muave and the person 
 vomited, therefore innocence was clearly established ! He 
 came in the evening of the 21st footsore and tired, and at 
 once gave us some beer. This perpetual reference to food 
 and drink is natural, inasmuch as it is the most important 
 point in our intercourse. While the chief was absent we 
 got nothing ; the queen even begged a little meat for her 
 child, who was recovering from an attack of small-pox. 
 There being no shops we had to sit still without food. I 
 took observations for longitude, and whiled away the time 
 by calculating the lunars. Next day the chief gave us 
 a goat cooked whole and plenty of porridge : I noticed that 
 he too had the Assyrian type of face.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 AMONG THE IRON WORKERS. 
 
 TT7~E started with Chitikola as our guide on the 22nd of 
 VV October, 1866, and he led us away westwards across 
 the Lilongwe River, then turned north till we came to a vil- 
 lage called Mashumba, the headman of which was the only 
 chief who begged anything except medicine, and he got less 
 than we were in the habit of giving in consequence. We 
 give a cloth usually, and clothing being very scarce this is 
 considered munificent. 
 
 23n. We had the Zanlanyama range on our left, and onr 
 course was generally north, but we had to go in the direction 
 of the villages which were on friendly terms with our guides, 
 and sometimes we went but a little way, as they studied to 
 make the days as short as possible. The headman of the last 
 village, Chitoku, was with us, and he took us to a village of 
 smiths, four furnaces and one smithy being at work. 
 
 24A. Our guide, Mpanda, led us through the forest by 
 what he meant to be a short cut to Chimuna's. We came on 
 a herd of about fifteen elephants, and many trees laid down 
 by these animals: they seem to relish the roots of some 
 kinds, and spend a good deal of time in digging them up ; 
 they chew woody roots and branches as thick as the handle 
 of a spade. Many buffaloes feed here, and we viewed a herd 
 of elands ; they kept out of bow-shot only : a herd of the 
 baama or hartebeest stood at 200 paces, and one was shot. 
 
 While all were rejoicing over the meat, we got news from 
 the inhabitants of a large village in full flight, that the
 
 A MAZITU PANIC. 87 
 
 Mazitu were out on a foray. While roasting and eating 
 meat I went forward with Mpanda to get men from Chimuna 
 to carry the rest, but was soon recalled. Another crowd 
 were also in full retreat ; the people were running straight to 
 the Zanlanyama range regardless of their feet, making a path 
 for themselves through the forest ; they had escaped from 
 the Mazitu that morning; "they saw them!" Mpanda's 
 people wished to leave and go to look after their own 
 village, but we persuaded them, on pain of a milando, to take 
 us to the nearest village, that was at the bottom of Zanlan- 
 yama proper, and we took the spoor of the fugitives. The 
 hard grass with stalks nearly as thick as quills must have 
 hurt their feet sorely, but what of that in comparison with 
 dear life ! We meant to take our stand on the hill and defend 
 our property in case of the Mazitu coming near; and we 
 should, in the event of being successful, be a defence to the 
 fugitives who crowded up its rocky sides, but next morning 
 we heard that the enemy had gone to the south. Had we 
 gone forward, as we intended, to search for men to carry the 
 meat we should have met the marauders, for the men of the 
 second party of villagers had remained behind guarding their 
 village till the Mazitu arrived, and they told us what a near 
 escape I had had from walking into their power. 
 
 25th. Came along northwards to Chimuna's town, a large 
 one of Chipeta with many villages around. Our path led 
 through the forest, and as we emerged into the open strath 
 in which the villages lie, we saw the large anthills, each the 
 size of the end of a one-storied cottage, covered with men on 
 guard watching for the Mazitu. 
 
 A long line of villagers were just arriving from the south, 
 and we could see at some low hills in that direction the smoke 
 arising from the burning settlements. None but men were 
 present ; the women and the chief were at the mountain 
 called Pambe ; all were fully armed with their long bows, 
 some flat in the bow, others round, and it was common to 
 have the quiver on the back, and a bunch of feathers stuck 
 in the hair like those in our Lancers' shakos. But they
 
 gg LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 remained not to fight, but to watch their homes and stores of 
 grain from robbers amongst their own. people in case no 
 Mazitu came ! They gave a good hut, and sent off at once 
 to let the chief at Pambe know of our arrival. We heard the 
 cocks crowing up there in the mountain as we passed in the 
 morning. Chimuna came in the evening, and begged me 
 to remain a day in his village, Pamaloa, as he was the 
 greatest chief the Chipeta had. I told him all wished the 
 same thing, and if I listened to each chief we should never 
 get on, and the rains were near, but we had to stay over 
 with him. 
 
 26th. All the people came down to-day from Pambe, and 
 crowded to see the strangers. They know very little beyond 
 their own affairs, though these require a good deal of knowl- 
 edge, and we should be sorely put about if, without their 
 skill, we had to maintain an existence here. Their furnaces 
 are rather bottle shaped, and about seven feet high by three 
 broad. One toothless patriarch had heard of books and 
 umbrellas, but had never seen either. The oldest inhabitant 
 had never traveled far from the spot in which he was born, 
 yet he has a good knowledge of soils and agriculture, hut- 
 building, basket-making, pottery, and the manufacture of 
 bark-cloth and skins for clothing, as also making of nets, 
 traps, and cordage. 
 
 Chimuna had a most ungainly countenance, yet did well 
 enough : he was very thankful for a blister on his loins to 
 ease rheumatic pains, and presented a huge basket of porridge 
 before starting, with a fowl, and asked me to fire a gun that 
 the Mazitu might hear and know that armed men were here. 
 They all say that these marauders flee from fire-arms, so I 
 think that they are not Zulus at all, though adopting some of 
 their ways. 
 
 On arriving at Mapuio's village, he was, as often happens, 
 invisible, but he sent us a calabash of fresh-made beer, which 
 is very refreshing, gave us a hut, and promised to cook for 
 us in the evening. We have to employ five or six carriers, 
 and they rule the length of the day's march. Those from
 
 EAST AFRICANS AT HOME. 89 
 
 Chimnna's village growled at the cubit of calico with which 
 we paid them, but a few beads pleased them perfectly, and 
 we parted good friends. It is not likely I shall ever see 
 them again, but I always like to please them, because it is 
 right to consider their desires. Is that not what is meant in 
 " Blessed is he that considereth the poor?" There is a great 
 deal of good in these poor people. In cases of milando they 
 rely on the most distant relations and connections to plead 
 their cause, and seldom are they disappointed, though time 
 at certain seasons, as for instance at present, is felt by all to 
 be precious. Every man appears with hoe or axe on shoulder, 
 and the people often only sit down as we pass and gaze at us 
 till we are out of sight. 
 
 Clapping the hands in various ways is the polite way of 
 saying "Allow me," " I beg pardon," " Permit me to pass," 
 " Thanks ; " it is resorted to in respectful introduction and 
 leave-taking, and also is equivalent to " Hear, hear." When 
 inferiors are called they respond by two brisk claps of the 
 hands, meaning " I am coming." They are very punctilious 
 amongst each other. A large ivory bracelet marks the head- 
 man of a village ; there is nothing else to show differences 
 of rank. 
 
 28A. "We spent Sunday at Mapuio's and had a long talk 
 with him ; his country is in a poor state from the continual 
 incursions of the Mazitu, who are wholly unchecked. 
 
 29tfA. We marched westwards to Makosa's village, and 
 could not go further, as the next stage is long and through 
 an ill-peopled country. The morning was lovely, the whole 
 country bathed in bright sunlight, and not a breath of air 
 disturbed the smoke as it slowly curled up from the heaps of 
 burning weeds, which the native agriculturist wisely destroys. 
 The people generally were busy hoeing in the cool of the 
 day. One old man in a village where we rested had trained 
 the little hair he had left into a tail, which, well plastered 
 with fat, he had bent on itself and laid flat on his crown; 
 another was carefully paring a stick for stirring the porridge, 
 and others were enjoying the cool shade of the wild fig-trees 
 

 
 90 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 which are always planted at villages. It is a sacred tree all 
 over Africa and India, and the tender roots which drop down 
 towards the ground are used as medicine a universal reme- 
 dy. Can it be a tradition of its being like the tree of life, 
 which Archbishop Whately conjectures may have been used 
 in Paradise to render man immortal ? One kind of fig-tree 
 is often seen hacked all over to get the sap, which is used as 
 bird-lime ; bark -cloth is mnde of it too. I like to see the 
 men weaving or spinning, or reclining under these glorious 
 canopies, as much as I love to see our more civilized people 
 lolling on their sofas or Ottomans. 
 
 30tfA. The black traders come from Tette to this country 
 to buy slaves, and as a consequence here we come to bugs 
 again, which we left when we passed the Arab slave-traders' 
 beat. 
 
 1st. November, 1866. In the evening we made the 
 Chigumokire, a nice rivulet, where we slept, and the next 
 morning we proceeded to Kangene, whose village is situated 
 on a mass of mountains, and to reach which we made more 
 southing than we wished. Our appearance on the ascent of 
 the hill caused alarm, and we were desired to wait till our 
 spokesman had explained the unusual phenomenon of a 
 white man. 
 
 This kept us waiting in the hot sun among heated rocks, 
 and the chief, being a great ugly public-house-keeper looking 
 person, excused his incivility by saying that his brother had 
 been killed by the Mazitu, and he was afraid that we were of 
 the same tribe. On asking if Mazitu wore clothes like us he 
 told some untruths, and, what has been an unusual thing, 
 began to beg powder and other things. I told him how other 
 chiefs had treated us, which made him ashamed. He 
 represented the country in front to the N. "W. to be quite 
 impassable from want of food : the Mazitu had stripped it of 
 all provisions, and the people were living on what wild 
 fruits they could pick up. 
 
 2nd. Kangene is very disagreeable naturally, and as we 
 have to employ five men as carriers, we are in his power.
 
 A CHURLISH HEADMAN. 91 
 
 "We can scarcely enter into the feelings of those who are 
 harried by marauders. Like Scotland in the twelfth and 
 thirteenth centuries harassed by Highland Celts on one side 
 and by English Marchmen on the other, and thus kept in the 
 rearward of civilization, these people have rest neither for 
 many days nor for few. When they fill their garners they 
 can seldom reckon on eating the grain, for the Mazitu come 
 when the harvest is over and catch as many able-bodied 
 young persons as they can to carry away the corn. Thus it 
 was in Scotland so far as security for life and property was 
 concerned ; but the Scotch were apt pupils of more fortunate 
 nations. To change of country they were as indifferent as 
 the Romans of the olden times ; they were always welcome 
 in France, either as pilgrims, scholars, merchants, or soldiers; 
 but the African is different. If let alone the African's mode 
 of life is rather enjoyable ; he loves agriculture, and land is 
 to be had anywhere. He knows nothing of other countries, 
 but he has imbibed the idea of property in man. This 
 Kangene told me that he would like to give me a slave 
 to look after my goats : I believe he would rather give a 
 slave than a goat ! 
 
 We were detained by the illness of Simon for four days. 
 When he recovered we proposed to the headman to start 
 with five of his men, and he agreed to let us have them ; but 
 having called them together such an enormous demand was 
 made for wages, and in advance, that on the Yth of November 
 we took seven loads forward through a level uninhabited 
 country generally covered with small trees, slept there, and 
 on the morning of the 8th, after leaving two men at our 
 depot, came back, and took the remaining five loads. 
 
 Kangene was disagreeable to the last. He asked where we 
 had gone, and, having described the turning point as near 
 the hill Chimbimbe, he complimented us on going so far, 
 and then sent an offer of three men ; but I preferred not to 
 have those who would have been spies unless he could give 
 five and take on all the loads. He said that he would find 
 the number, and after detaining us some hours brought two,
 
 92 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 one of -whom, primed with beer, babbled out that he was 
 afraid of being killed by us in front. I asked whom we had 
 killed behind, and moved off. The headman is very childish, 
 does women's work cooking and pounding ; and in all cases 
 of that kind the people take after their leader. The chiefs 
 have scarcely any power unless they are men of energy ; 
 they have to court the people rather than be courted. We 
 came much further back on our way from Mapuio's than we 
 liked ; in fact, our course is like that of a vessel baffled 
 with foul winds: this is mainly owing to being obliged 
 to avoid places stripped of provisions or suffering this 
 spoliation. The people, too, can give no information about 
 others at a distance from their own abodes. Even the smiths, 
 who are a most plodding set of workers, are as ignorant as 
 the others : they supply the surrounding villages with hoes 
 and knives: and, combining agriculture with handicraft, 
 pass through life. An intelligent smith came as our guide 
 from Chimbimbe Hill on the 7th, and did not know a range 
 of mountains about twenty miles off: "it was too far off 
 for him to know the name." 
 
 Wth. We found the people on the Mando to be Chawa, 
 or Ajawa, but not of the Waiyau race ; they are Manganja, 
 and this is a village of smiths. "We got five men readily to 
 go back and bring up our loads; and the sound of the 
 hammer is constant, showing a great deal of industry. They 
 combine agriculture, and hunting with their handicraft. 
 
 A herd of buffaloes came near the village, and I went and 
 shot one, thus procuring a supply of meat for the whole 
 party and villagers too. The hammer which we hear from 
 dawn till sunset is a large stone, bound with the strong inner 
 bark of a tree, and loops left which form handles. Two 
 pieces of bark form the tongs, and a big stone sunk into the 
 ground the anvil. They make several hoes in a day, and the 
 metal is very good ; it is all from yellow haematite, which 
 abounds all over this part of the country ; the bellows consist 
 of two goat-skins with sticks at the open ends, which are 
 opened and shut at every blast.
 
 IRON-SMELTERS AND BLACKSMITHS. 95 
 
 . A lion came last night and gave a growl or two on 
 finding he could not get our meat : a man had lent us a 
 hunting net to protect it and us from intruders of this sort. 
 The people kept up a shouting for hours afterwards, in order 
 to keep him away by the human voice. 
 
 14^/i. We marched northwards, and remained for the 
 night at a blacksmith's, or rather founder's village ; the two 
 occupations of founder and smith are always united, and boys 
 taught to be smiths in Europe or India would find themselves 
 useless if unable to smelt the ore. A good portion of the 
 trees of the country have been cut down for charcoal, and 
 those which now spring up are small ; certain fruit trees 
 alone are left. The long slopes on the undulating country, 
 clothed with fresh foliage, look very beautiful. The people 
 at Kalumbi, on the Mando (where we spent four days), had 
 once a stockade of wild fig and euphorbia round their village, 
 which has a running rill on each side of it ; but the trees 
 which enabled them to withstand a siege by Mazitu fell 
 before elephants and buffaloes during a temporary absence 
 of the villagers ; the remains of the stockade are all around 
 it yet. Lions sometimes enter huts by breaking through the 
 roof : elephants certainly do, for we saw a roof destroyed by 
 one ; the only chance for the inmates is to drive a spear into 
 the belly of the beast while so engaged. 
 
 A man came and reported the Mazitu to be at Chanyan- 
 dula's village, where we are going. The headman advised 
 remaining at his village till we saw whether they came this 
 way or went by another path. The women were sent away, 
 but the men went on with their employments : two proceeded 
 with the building of a furnace on an anthill, where they are 
 almost always placed, and they keep a look-out while work- 
 ing. We have the protection of an all-embracing Providence, 
 and trust that He, whose care of His people exceeds all that 
 our utmost self-love can attain, will shield us and make our 
 way prosperous. 
 
 16^A. An elephant came near enough last night to scream 
 at us, but passed on, warned, perhaps, by the shouting of
 
 96 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 the villagers not to meddle with man. No Mazitu having 
 come, we marched on. The iron trade must have been 
 carried on for an immense time in the country, for one cannot 
 go a quarter of a mile without meeting pieces of slag and 
 broken pots, calcined pipes, and fragments of the furnaces, 
 which are converted by the fire into brick. 
 
 When we arrived at Kanyenje, Kanyindula was out col- 
 lecting charcoal. He sent a party of men to ask if we should 
 remain next day: an old, unintellectual-lookiug man was 
 among the number sent, who had twenty-seven rings of 
 elephants' skin on his arm, all killed by himself by the spear 
 alone : he had given up fighting elephants since the Mazitu 
 came, whom we heard had passed away to the south-east of 
 this place, taking all the crops of last year, and the chief 
 alone has food. He gave us some, which was very accepta- 
 ble, as we got none at the two villages south of this. Kan- 
 yindula came himself in the evening, an active, stern-looking 
 man, but we got on very well with him. 
 
 202A. Kanyindula came with three carriers this morning 
 instead of five, and joined them in demanding prepayment : 
 however, we came on without his people, leaving two to 
 guard the loads. 
 
 About four miles up the valley we came to a village at the 
 fountain-eye of the Bua, and thence sent men back for the 
 loads ; while we had the shelter of good huts during a heavy 
 thunder-shower, which made us willing to remain all night. 
 The valley is lovely in the extreme. 
 
 21. We left Bua fountain, and made a short march to 
 Mokatoba, a stockaded village, where the people refused to 
 admit us till the headman came. They have a little food 
 here, and sold us some. We have been on rather short com- 
 mons for some time, and this made our detention agreeable. 
 
 We are making our way slowly to the north, where food 
 is said to be abundant. I divided about 50 Ibs. of powder 
 among the people of my following to shoot with, and buy 
 goats or other food as we could. This reduces our extra 
 loads to threefour just now, Simon being sick again.
 
 A SUNDAY AT ZEORE'S. 97 
 
 Mem,. The people assent by lifting up the head instead 
 of nodding it down as we do ; deaf mutes are said to do the 
 same. 
 
 22nd. "We reached Silubi's village, on the base of a rocky- 
 detached hill. No food to be had ; all taken by Mazitu, so 
 Silubi gave me some Masuko fruit instead. They find that 
 they can keep the Mazitu off by going up a rocky eminence, 
 and hurling stones and arrows down on the invaders : they 
 can defend themselves also by stockades, and these are 
 becoming very general. 
 
 On reaching Zeore's village, on the Lokuzhwa, we found 
 it stockaded, and stagnant pools round three sides of it. 
 The Mazitu had come, pillaged all the surrounding villages, 
 looked at this, and then went away ; so the people had food 
 to sell. The men know nothing of distant places, the Man- 
 ganja being a very stay-at-home people. The stockades are 
 crowded with huts, and the children have but small room to 
 play in the narrow spaces between. 
 
 25^A. Sunday at Zeore's. The villagers thought we 
 prayed for rain, which was much needed. I disabused their 
 minds about rain-making prayers, and found the headman 
 intelligent. 
 
 27tfA. Zeore's people would not carry without prepayment, 
 so we left our extra loads as usual and went on, sending men 
 back for them : these, however, did not come till 27th, and 
 then two of my men got fever. I groan in spirit, and do 
 not know how to make our gear into nine loads only. It is 
 the knowledge that we shall be detained some two or three 
 months during the heavy rains that makes me cleave to it as 
 a means of support. 
 
 Last night a loud clapping of hands by the men was 
 followed by several half -suppressed screams by a woman. 
 They were quite eldritch, as if she could not get them out. 
 Then succeeded a lot of utterances as if she were in ecstasy, 
 to which a man responded, " Moio, moio." The utterances, 
 so far as I could catch, were in five-syllable snatchos abrupt 
 and labored. I wonder if this " bubbling or boiling over "
 
 93 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 lias been preserved as the form in which the true prophets 
 of old gave forth their " burdens ? " One sentence, frequently 
 repeated towards the close of the effusion, was " linyama uta" 
 " flesh of the bow," showing that the Pythoness loved venison 
 killed by the bow. The people applauded, and attended, 
 hoping, I suppose, that rain would follow her efforts. Next 
 day she was duly honored by drumming and dancing. 
 
 3(MA. We march to Embora's. This village is on a tongue 
 of land chosen for its strength. Ernbora came to visit us 
 soon after we arrived a tall man with a Yankee face. He 
 was very much tickled when asked if he were a Motumboka. 
 After indulging in laughter at the idea of being one of such a 
 small tribe of Manganja, he said proudly " That he belonged 
 to the Echewa, who inhabited all the country to which I was 
 going." They are generally smiths ; a mass of iron had just 
 been brought in to him from some outlying furnaces. 
 
 3rd December, 1866. March through a hilly country 
 covered with dwarf forest to Kande's village, surrounded by 
 a dense hedge of bamboo and a species of bushy fig that 
 loves edges of water-bearing streams : it is not found where 
 the moisture is not perennial. Kande is a fine tall smith. 
 Two Waiyau now volunteered to go on with us, and as they 
 declared their masters were killed by the Mazitu, and Kande 
 seemed to confirm them, we let them join. 
 
 A continuous tap-tapping in the villages shows that bark 
 cloth is being made. The bark, on being removed from the 
 tree, is steeped in water, or in a black muddy hole, till the 
 outer of the two inner barks can be separated ; then com- 
 mences the tapping with a mallet to separate and soften the 
 fibres. The head of this is often of ebony, with the face cut 
 into small furrows, which, without breaking, separate and 
 soften the fibres. 
 
 4:th. Marched westwards, over a hilly, dwarf forest-covered 
 country : as we advanced, trees increased in size, but no 
 people inhabited it ; we spent a miserable night at Katette, 
 wetted by a heavy thunder-shower, which lasted a good 
 while. Morning (5tK) muggy, clouded all over, and rolling
 
 "SHE IS COMING." 99 
 
 thunder in distance. Went three hours with, for a wonder, 
 no water, but made westing chiefly, and got on to the 
 Lokuzhwa again : all the people are collected on it. 
 
 6th. Too ill to march. 
 
 1th. "Went on, and passed Mesumbe's village, also pro- 
 tected by bamboos, and came to the hill Mparawe, with a 
 village perched on its northern base and well up its sides. 
 In various villages we have observed miniature huts, about 
 two feet high, very neatly thatched and plastered ; here we 
 noticed them in dozens. On inquiring, we were told that when 
 a child or relative dies one is made, and when any pleasant 
 food is cooked or beer brewed, a little is placed in the tiny 
 hut for the departed soul, which is believed to enjoy it. 
 
 Sth. A poor child, whose mother had died, was unpro- 
 vided for ; no one not a relative will nurse another's child. 
 It called out piteously for its mother by name, and the 
 women (like the servants in the case of the poet Cowper 
 when a child), said, " She is coming." I gave it a piece of 
 bread, but it was too far gone, and is dead to-day. 
 
 An alarm of Mazitu sent all the villagers up the sides of 
 Mparawe this morning. The affair was a chase of a hyaena, 
 but everything is Mazitu ! The Babisa came here, but were 
 surrounded and nearly all cut off. Muasi was so eager to 
 be off with a party to return the attack on the Mazitu, 
 that, when deputed by the headman to give us a guide, 
 he got the man to turn at the first village, so we had to go 
 on without guides, and made about due north. 
 
 HtfA. We are now detained in the forest, at a place 
 called Chonde Forest, by set-in rains. The birds now make 
 much melody and noise all intent on building. 
 
 12M. Across an undulating forest country north we got 
 a man to show us the way, if a pathless forest can so be 
 called. We used a game-path as long as it ran north, but 
 left it when it deviated, and rested under a baobab-tree with 
 a marabou's nest a bundle of sticks on a branch ; the young 
 ones uttered a hard chuck, chuck, when the old ones flew 
 over them. A sun-bird, with bright scarlet throat and breast,
 
 100 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 had its nest on another branch; it was formed like the 
 weaver's nest, but without a tube. 
 
 13A. Keached the Tokosusi. Here I got a pallah ante- 
 lope, and a very strange flower called " katende," which was a 
 whorl of seventy-two flowers sprung from a flat round root ; 
 but it cannot be described. 
 
 A " set-in " rain came on after dark, and we went on 
 through slush, the trees sending down heavier drops than 
 the showers as we neared the Loangwa ; we forded several 
 deep gullies, all flowing north or north-west into it. The 
 paths were running with water, and when we emerged from 
 the large Mopane Forest, we came on the plain of excess- 
 ively adhesive mud, on which Miranda's stronghold stands 
 on the left bank of Loangwa, here a good-sized river. The 
 people were all afraid of us, and we were mortified to find 
 that food is scarce. The Mazitu have been here three times, 
 and the fear they have inspired, though they were sucess- 
 fully repelled, has prevented agricultural operations from 
 being carried on. 
 
 Mem. A flake of reed is often used in surgical operations 
 among the natives, as being sharper than their knives.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 FROM THE LOANGWA TO THE CHAMBEZE. 
 
 DECEMBER 16TH, 1866. We could get no food at any 
 price on 15th, so we crossed theLoangwa, and judged it 
 to be from seventy to a hundred yards wide. No guide 
 would come, so we went on without one. 
 
 Vlth. We went on through a bushy country without 
 paths, and struck the Pamazi, a river of sixty yards wide, in 
 steep banks and in flood, and held on as well as we could 
 through a very difficult country, the river forcing us north- 
 west : I heard hippopotami in it. We made only about three 
 miles of northing, and found the people on the left bank 
 uncivil : they would not lend a hut, so we soon put up a 
 tent of waterproof cloth and branches. 
 
 ISth. As the men grumbled at their feet being pierced 
 by thorns in the trackless portions we had passed, I was 
 anxious to get a guide, but the only one we could secure 
 would go to Molenga's only; so I submitted, though this 
 led us east instead of north. When we arrived we were 
 asked what we wanted, seeing we brought neither slaves nor 
 ivory : I replied that it was much against our will that we 
 came ; "but the guide had declared that this was the only way 
 to Casembe's, our next stage. To get rid of us they gave a 
 guide, and we set forward northwards. 
 
 20A. Reached Casembe, a miserable hamlet of a few huts. 
 The people here are very suspicious, and will do nothing but 
 with a haggle for prepayment ; we could get no grain, nor 
 even native herbs, though we rested a day to try.
 
 102 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 %<-2nd. Shot a bush-buck ; slept on the bank of Nyamazi. 
 
 23rd. Hunger sent us on ; for a meat diet is far from 
 satisfying : we all felt very weak on it, and soon tired on a 
 march, but to-day we hurried on to Kavimba, who success- 
 fully beat off the Mazitu. It is very hot, and between three 
 and four hours is a good day's march. On sitting down to 
 rest before entering the village we were observed, and all 
 the force of the village issued to kill us as Mazitu; but 
 when we stood up the mistake was readily perceived, and 
 the arrows were placed again in their quivers. In the hut 
 four Mazitu shields show that they did not get it all their 
 own way. 
 
 A very small return present was made by Kavimba, and 
 nothing could be bought except at exorbitant prices. We 
 remained all day on the 24th, haggling and trying to get 
 some grain. He took a fancy to a shirt, and left it to his 
 wife to bargain for. She got the length of cursing and 
 swearing, and we bore it, but could get only a small price 
 for it. We resolved to hold our Christmas some other day, 
 and in a better place. The women seem ill-regulated' here 
 Kavimba's brother had words with his spouse, and at the 
 end of every burst of vociferation on both sides called out, 
 " Bring the Muavi ! bring the Muavi ! " or ordeal. 
 
 Christmas-day, 1866. No one being willing to guide us to 
 Moerwa's, I hinted to Kavimba that should we see a rhi- 
 noceros I would kill it. He came himself, and led us on 
 where he expected to find these animals, but we saw only 
 their footsteps. We lost our four goats somewhere stolen 
 or strayed in the pathless forest, we do not know which, but 
 the loss I felt very keenly, for whatever kind of food we had, 
 a little milk made all right, and I felt strong and well ; but 
 coarse food hard of digestion without it was very trying. 
 We spent the 26th in searching for them, but all in vain. 
 The loss affected me more than I could have imagined. A 
 little indigestible porridge, of scarcely any taste, is now my 
 fare, and it makes me dream of better. 
 
 . Our guide asked for his cloth to wear on the
 
 ELEPHANT HUNTERS. 103 
 
 way, as it was wet and raining, and his bark cloth was a 
 miserable covering. I consented, and he bolted on the first 
 opportunity ; the forest being BO dense he was soon out of 
 reach of pursuit : he had been advised to this by Kavimba, 
 and nothing else need have been expected. We then followed 
 the track of a traveling party of Babisa, but the grass springs 
 up over the paths, and it was soon lost : the rain had fallen 
 early in these parts, and the grass was all in seed. On resting 
 near the top of an ascent two honey hunters came to us. 
 They were using the honey-guide as an aid ; the bird came 
 to us as they arrived, waited quietly during the half -hour 
 they smoked and chatted, and then went on with them. 
 
 28A. Three men, going to hunt bees, came to us as we 
 were starting and assured us that Moerwa's was near. 
 
 Moerwa came to visit me in my hut, a rather stupid man, 
 though he has a well-shaped and well-developed forehead, 
 and tried the usual little arts of getting us to buy all we 
 need here though the prices are exorbitant. " No people in 
 front, great hunger there." " We must buy food here and 
 carry it to support us." We have nothing, as we saw no 
 animals in our way hither, and hunger is ill to bear. By 
 giving Moerwa a good large cloth he was induced to cook a 
 mess of millet and elephant's stomach. 
 
 30th. Marched for Chitembo's, because it is said he has 
 not fled from the Mazitu, and therefore has food to spare. 
 While resting, Moerwa, with all his force of men, women, 
 and dogs, came up, on his way to hunt elephants. The men 
 were furnished with big spears, and their dogs are used to 
 engage the animal's attention while they spear it ; the women 
 cook the meat and make huts, and a smith goes with them to 
 mend any spear that may be broken. In the evening we en- 
 camped beside a little rill, and made our shelters, but we had 
 so little to eat that I dreamed the night long of dinners I had 
 eaten, and might have been eating. 
 
 I shall make this beautiful land better known, which is an 
 essential part of the process by which it will become the 
 " pleasant haunts of men." It is impossible to describe its
 
 104: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 rich luxuriance, but most of it is running to waste through 
 the slave-trade and internal wars. 
 
 31st. When we started this morning after rain, all the 
 trees and grass dripping, a lion roared, but we did not see 
 him. A woman had come a long way and built a neat 
 miniature hut in the burnt-out ruins of her mother's house : 
 the food-offering she placed in it, and the act of filial piety, 
 no doubt, comforted this poor mourner's heart. 
 
 We arrived at Chitembo's village and found it deserted. 
 The Babisa dismantle their huts and carry off the thatch to 
 their gardens, where they live till harvest is over. This 
 fallowing of the framework destroys many insects, but we 
 observed that wherever Babisa and Arab slavers go they 
 leave the breed of the domestic bug : it would be well if that 
 were all the ill they did! Chitembo was working in his 
 garden when we arrived, but soon came, and gave us the 
 choice of all the standing huts : he is an old man, much more 
 frank and truthful than our last headman, and says that 
 Chitapangwa is paramount chief of all the Abemba. 
 
 Three or four women whom we saw performing a rain 
 dance at Moerwa's were here doing the same; their faces 
 smeared with meal, and axes in their hands, imitating as 
 well as they could the male voice. I got some millet here 
 and a fowl. 
 
 We now end 1866. It has not been so fruitful or useful 
 as I intended. Will try to do better in 186T, and be better 
 more gentle and loving ; and may the Almighty, to whom I 
 commit my way, bring my desires to pass, and prosper me ! 
 Let all the sins of '66 be blotted out for Jesus' sake. 
 * * * * * # # 
 
 1st January, 1867. May He who was full of grace and 
 truth impress His character on mine. Grace eagerness to 
 show favor; truth truthfulness, sincerity, honor for His 
 mercy's sake. 
 
 4th. It is a set-in rain. We have neither sugar nor salt, 
 so there are no soluble goods ; but cloth and gunpowder get 
 damaged easily. It is hard fare and scanty ; I feel always
 
 DREAMING HUNGRY HOURS AWAY. 105 
 
 hungry, and am constantly dreaming of better food when I 
 should be sleeping. Savory viands of former times come 
 vividly up before the imagination, even in my waking hours ; 
 this is rather odd as I am not a dreamer ; indeed I scarcely 
 ever dream but when I am going to be ill or actually so. 
 
 6th. After service two men came and said that they were 
 going to Lobemba, and would guide us to Motuna's village. 
 These men's faces pleased us, but they did not turn out all 
 we expected, for they guided us away westwards without a 
 path: it was a drizzling rain, and this made us averse to 
 striking off in the forest without them. No inhabitants ilow 
 except at wide intervals, and no animals either. 
 
 No food at Motuna's village, yet the headman tried to 
 extort two fathoms of calico on the ground that he was 
 owner of the country : we offered to go out of his village and 
 make our own sheds on " God's land," that is, where it is 
 uncultivated, rather than have any words about it : he then 
 begged us to stay. 
 
 On the th of January we ascended a hardened sandstone 
 range. Two men who accompanied our guide called out 
 every now and then to attract the attention of the honey- 
 guide, but none appeared. There are no people here now in 
 these lovely wild valleys ; but to-day we came to mounds 
 made of old for planting grain, and slag from iron fences. 
 
 Wth. In the afternoon an excessively heavy thunderstorm 
 wetted us all to the skin before any shelter could be made. 
 Two of our men wandered, and other two remained behind lost, 
 as our track was washed out by the rains. The country is a 
 succession of enormous waves, all covered with jungle, and 
 no traces of paths ; we were in a hollow, and our firing was 
 not heard till this morning, when we ascended a height and 
 were answered. At midday reached the village of Chaf unga. 
 Famine here too, but some men had killed an elephant and 
 came to sell the dried meat. We bought up all the food we 
 could get ; but it did not suffice for the marches we expect 
 to make to get to the Chambeze, where food is said to be 
 abundant, we were therefore again obliged to travel on
 
 106 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Sunday. "We had prayers before starting ; but I always feel 
 that I am not doing right ; it lessens the sense of obligation 
 in the minds of my companions ; but I have no choice. 
 
 \$th. We had to cross the Chimbwe at its eastern end, 
 where it is fully a mile wide, and I, being the first to cross, 
 neglected to give orders about the poor little dog, Chitane. 
 The water was waist deep, the bottom soft peaty stuff' with 
 deep holes in it, and the northern side infested by leeches. 
 The boys were like myself all too much engaged with 
 preserving their balance to think of the spirited little beast, 
 and he must have swam till he sunk. He was so useful in 
 keeping all the country curs off our huts; none dare to 
 approach and steal, and he never stole himself. He shared 
 the staring of the people with his master, then in the march 
 he took charge of the whole party, running to the front, and 
 again to the rear, to see that all was right. He was becoming 
 yellowish-red in color ; and, poor thing, perished in what the 
 boys all call Chitane's water. 
 
 16th. March through the mountains, which are of beau- 
 tiful white and pink dolomite, scantily covered with upland 
 trees and vegetation. 
 
 Vlth. Detained in an old Babisa slaving encampment by 
 set-in rain till noon, then set off in the midst of it. 
 
 18th. The headman of Lisunga, Chaokila, took our present, 
 and gave nothing in return. 
 
 19th. Raining most of the day. Nothing but famine and 
 famine prices, the people living on mushrooms and leaves. 
 
 [We now come to a disaster which cannot be exaggerated 
 in importance when we witness its after effects month by 
 month on Dr. Livingstone.] 
 
 2CM. A guide refused, so we marched without one. The 
 two Waiyau, who joined us at Kande's village, now deserted. 
 They had been very faithful all the way, and took our part 
 in every case. Knowing the language well, they were 
 extremely useful, and no one thought that they would 
 desert, for they were free men their masters had been killed 
 by the Mazitu and this circumstance, and their uniform
 
 THE MEDICINE CHEST IS STOLEN. 107 
 
 good conduct, made us trust them more than we should have 
 done any others who had been slaves. But they left us in 
 the forest, and heavy rain came on, which obliterated every 
 vestige of their footsteps. To make the loss the more 
 galling, they took what we could least spare the medicine- 
 box, which they would only throw away as soon as they 
 came to examine their booty. One of these deserters 
 exchanged his load that morning with a boy called Baraka, 
 who had charge of the medicine-box, because he was so 
 careful. This was done, because with the medicine-chest 
 were packed five large cloths and all Baraka's clothing and 
 beads, of which he was very careful. The "VVaiyati also 
 offered to carry this burden a stage to help Baraka, while he 
 gave his own load, in which there was no cloth, in exchange. 
 The forest was so dense and high, there was no chance of 
 getting a glimpse of the fugitives, who took all the dishes, a 
 large box of powder, the flour we had purchased dearly to 
 help us as far as the Chambeze, the tools, two guns, and a 
 cartridge-pouch ; but the medicine-chest was the sorest loss 
 of all ! I felt as if I had now received the sentence of 
 death, like poor Bishop Mackenzie. 
 
 All the other goods I had divided in case of loss or 
 desertion, but had never dreamed of losing the precious 
 quinine and other remedies ; other losses and annoyances I 
 felt as just parts of that undercurrent of vexations which is 
 not wanting in even the smoothest life, and certainly not 
 worthy of being moaned over in the experience of an 
 explorer anxious to benefit a country and people but this 
 loss I feel most keenly. Everything of this kind happens 
 by the permission of One who watches over us with most 
 tender care ; and this may turn out for the best by taking 
 away a source of suspicion among more superstitious, charm- 
 dreading people further north. I meant it as a source of 
 benefit to my party and to the heathen. 
 
 We returned to Lisunga, and got two men off to go back 
 to Chafunga's village, and intercept the deserters if they 
 went there ; but it is likely that, having our supply of flour.
 
 108 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 they will give our route a wide berth and escape altogether. 
 It is difficult to say from the heart, " Thy will be done ; " 
 but I shall try. Yet this loss of the medicine-box gnaws at 
 the heart terribly. 
 
 2l s t, 22nd. Eemained at Lisunga raining nearly all 
 day. "We were now forced to go on, and made for the next 
 village to buy food. Want of food, and rain are our chief 
 difficulties now. 
 
 24th. The village of Moaba is on the east side of the 
 marshy valley of the Movushi, and very difficult to be 
 approached, as the water is chin-deep in several spots. I 
 decided to make sheds on the west side, and send over for 
 food, which, thanks to the Providence which watches over 
 us, we found at last in a good supply of mae're and some 
 ground-nuts. 
 
 25th. Eemain and get our mae're ground into flour. 
 Moaba has cattle, sheep, and goats. An owl makes the 
 woods resound by night and early morning with his cries, 
 which consist of a loud, double-initial note, and then a 
 succession of lower descending notes. Another new bird, 
 or at least new to me, makes the forests ring. 
 
 26th. Went northwards along the Movushi, and then 
 took lodging in a deserted temporary village. 
 
 27/i. A set-in rain all the morning, but having meat we 
 were comfortable in the old huts. In changing my dress 
 this morning I was frightened at my own emaciation. 
 
 28th. We went five miles along the Movushi and the 
 Chambeze to a crossing-place. The canoe-man was excessively 
 suspicious; when prepayment was acceded to, he asked a 
 piece more, and although he was promised full payment as 
 soon as we were all safely across, he kept the last man on 
 the south side as a hostage for this bit of calico : he then ran 
 away. They must cheat each other sadly. 
 
 Slept in forest without seeing anyone. Then next day 
 we met with a party who had come from their village to 
 look for us. This village had half a mile of ooze and sludgy 
 marsh in front of it, and a stockade as usual. We observed
 
 GRAND RECEPTION BY CHITAPANGWA. 
 
 that the people had great fear of animals at night, and shut 
 the gates carefully, of even temporary villages. 
 
 3~Lst. At midday we came to the Lopiri, the rivulet which 
 waters Chitapangwa's stockade, and soon after found that his 
 village has a triple stockade, the inner being defended also by 
 a deep broad ditch and hedge of a solanaceous thorny shrub. 
 
 Chitapangwa, or Motoka as he is also called, sent to inquire 
 if we wanted an audience. " We must take something in 
 our hands the first time we came before so great a man." 
 Being tired from marching, I replied, " Not till the evening," 
 and sent notice at 5 P. M. of my coming. We passed through 
 the inner stockade, and then on to an enormous hut, where 
 sat Chitapangwa, with three drummers and ten or more men, 
 with two rattles in their hands. The drummers beat furiously, 
 and the rattlers kept time to the drums, two of them advanc- 
 ing and receding in a stooping posture, with rattles near the 
 ground, as if doing the chief obeisance, but still keeping time 
 with the others. I declined to sit on the ground, and an 
 enormous tusk was brought for me. The chief saluted 
 courteously. He has a fat, jolly face, and legs loaded with 
 brass and copper leglets. I mentioned our losses by the 
 desertion of the Waiyau, but his power is merely nominal, 
 and he could do nothing. After talking a while he came 
 along with us to a group of cows, and pointed out one. 
 " That is yours," said he. The tusk on which I sat was 
 sent after me too as being mine, because I had sat upon it. 
 He put on my cloth as token of acceptance, and sent two 
 large baskets of sorghum to the hut afterwards, and then 
 sent for one of the boys to pump him after dark. 
 
 ~\.st February, 1867. We found a small party of black Arab 
 slave-traders here from Bagamoyo on the coast ; and as the 
 chief had behaved handsomely as I thought, I went this 
 morning and gave him one of our best cloths ; but when we 
 were about to kill the cow, a man interfered and pointed out a 
 smaller one. I asked if this was by the orders of the chief. 
 The chief said that the man had lied, but I declined to take 
 any cow at all if he did not give it willingly.
 
 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 The elavers, the headman of whom was Magaru Mafupi, 
 came and said that they were going off on the 2nd ; but tiy 
 payment I got them to remain a day, and was all day 
 employed in writing dispatches. 
 
 3 r ^ Magaru Mafupi left this morning with a packet of 
 letters, for which he is to get Es. 10 at Zanzibar. 
 
 I ordered another supply of cloth and beads, and I sent 
 for a small quantity of coffee, sugar, candles, French preserved 
 meats, a cheese in tin, six bottles of port-wine, quinine, cal- 
 omel, and resin of jalap, to be sent to Ujiji. 
 
 I proposed to go a little way east with this route to buy 
 goats, but Chitapangwa got very angry, saying, I came only 
 to show my things, and would buy nothing : he then altered 
 his tone, and requested me to take the cow first presented 
 and eat it, and as we were all much in need I took it. We 
 were to give only what we liked in addition ; but this was a 
 snare, and when I gave two more cloths he sent them back, 
 and demanded a blanket. The boys alone have blankets ; 
 so I told him these were not slaves, and I could not take 
 from them what I had once given. Though it is disagree- 
 able to be thus victimized, it is the first time we have tasted 
 fat for six weeks and more. 
 
 Qth. Chitapangwa came with his wife to see the instru- 
 ments which I explained to them as well as I could, and the 
 books, as well as the Book of Books, and to my statements 
 he made intelligent remarks. The boys are sorely afraid of 
 him. "When Abraham does not like to say what I state, he 
 says to me : " I don't know the proper word ; " but when I 
 speak without him, he soon finds them. He and Simon 
 thought that talking in a cringing manner was the way to win 
 him over ; so I let them try it with a man he sent to commu- 
 nicate with us, and the result was this fellow wanted to open 
 their bundles, pulled them about, and kept them awake most 
 of the night. Abraham came at night : " Sir, what shall I 
 do ? they won't let me sleep." " You have had your own 
 way," I replied, " and must abide by it." He brought them 
 over to me in the morning, but I soon dismissed both him 
 and them.
 
 THE CHIEF BARGAINS FOR A BLANKET. H3 
 
 7th. I sent to the chief either to come to me or say when 
 I should come to him and talk ; the answer I got was that 
 he would come when shaved, but he afterwards sent a man 
 to hear what I had to advance this I declined, and when 
 the rain ceased I went myself. 
 
 On coming into his hut I stated that I had given him four 
 times the value of his cow, but if he thought otherwise, let 
 us take the four cloths to his brother Moamba, and if he said 
 that I had not given enough, I would buy a cow and send it 
 back. This he did not relish at all. " Oh, great Englishman ! 
 why should we refer a dispute to an inferior. I am the great 
 chief of all this country. Ingleze mokolu, you are sorry 
 that you have to give so much for the ox you have eaten. 
 You would not take a smaller, and therefore I gratified your 
 heart by giving the larger ; and why should not you gratify 
 my heart by giving cloth sufficient to cover me, and please 
 me?" 
 
 I said that my cloths would cover him, and his biggest wife 
 too all over ; he laughed at this, but still held out ; and as 
 we have meat, and he sent maize and calabashes, I went 
 away. He turns round now, and puts the blame of greedi- 
 ness on me. I cannot enter into his ideas, or see his point 
 of view ; cannot, in fact, enter into his ignorance, his preju- 
 dices, or delusions, so it is impossible to pronounce a true 
 judgment. One who has no humor cannot understand one 
 who has : this is an equivalent case. 
 
 St/t. The chief demands one of my boxes and a blanket ; 
 I explain that one day's rain would spoil the contents, and 
 the boys who have blankets, not being slaves, I cannot take 
 from them what I have given. I am told that he declares 
 that he will take us back to the Loangwa ; make war and 
 involve us in it, deprive us of food, etc. : this succeeds in 
 terrifying the boys. He thinks that we have some self- 
 interest to secure in passing through the country, and there- 
 fore he has a right to a share in the gain. When told it was 
 for a public benefit, he pulled down the underlid of the right 
 eye. He believes we shall profit by our journey, though he 
 knows not in what way.
 
 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 . The chief sent us a basket of hippopotamus flesh 
 from the Chambeze, and a large one of green maize. He 
 says the three cloths I offered are still mine : all he wants is 
 a box and blanket ; if not a blanket, a box must be given, a 
 tin one. He keeps out of my way, by going to the gardens 
 every morning. He is good-natured, and our intercourse is 
 a laughing one ; but the boys betray their terrors in their 
 tone of voice, and render my words powerless. 
 
 13A. I gave one of the boxes at last, Chitapangwa offer- 
 ing a heavy Arab wooden one to preserve our things, which 
 I declined to take, as I parted with our own partly to lighten 
 a load. Abraham unwittingly told me that he had not given 
 me the chief's statement in full when he pressed me to take 
 his cow. It was, " Take and eat the one you like, and give 
 me a blanket." Abraham said, " He has no blanket." Then 
 he said to me, " Take it and eat it, and give him any pretty 
 thing you like." I was thus led to mistake the chief, and 
 he, believing that he had said explicitly he wanted a blanket 
 for it, naturally held out. 
 
 I got ready to go, but the chief was very angry, and came 
 with all. his force, exclaiming that I wanted to leave against 
 his will and power, though he wished to adjust matters, and 
 send me away nicely. He does not believe that we have no 
 blankets. It is hard to be kept waiting here, but all may be 
 for the best : it has always turned out so, and I trust in Him 
 on whom I can cast all my cares. The Lord look on this and 
 help me. Though I have these nine boys, I feel quite alone. 
 I gave the chief some seeds, peas, and beans, for which he 
 seemed thankful, and returned little presents of food and beer. 
 
 14M. I showed the chief one of the boys' blankets, which 
 he is willing to part with for two of our cloths, each of which 
 is larger than it, but he declines to receive it, because we 
 have new ones. I invited him, since he disbelieved my as- 
 sertions, to look in our bales, and if he saw none, to pay us a 
 fine for the insult : he consented in a laughing way to give 
 us an ox. All our personal intercourse has been of the good- 
 natured sort. It is the communications to the boys, by three
 
 ,iv 
 
 =:!- 
 THE CHIEF CHITAPANGTVA. 
 
 *. ^sS : x 
 
 CHITAPANGWA'S
 
 A MISUNDERSTANDING. 117 
 
 men who are our protectors, or rather spies, that is disagree- 
 able ; I won't let them bring these fellows near me. 
 
 15^A. He came early in the morning, and I showed that I 
 had no blanket, and he took the old one and said that the 
 affair was ended. A long misunderstanding would have 
 been avoided, had Abraham told me fully what the chief said 
 at first. 
 
 16A. The chief is not so bad, as the boys are so cowardly. 
 They assume a chirping, piping tone of voice in speaking to 
 him, and do not say what at last has to be said, because in 
 their cringing souls they believe they know what should be 
 said better than I do. It does not strike them in the least 
 that I have grown grey amongst these people ; and it is im- 
 mense conceit in mere boys to equal themselves to me. The 
 difficulty is greater, because when I do ask their opinions I 
 only receive the reply, " It is as you please, sir." Yery likely 
 some men of character may arise and lead them ; but such as 
 I have would do little to civilize. 
 
 Vlth. Too ill with rheumatic-fever to have service ; this 
 is the first attack of it I ever had and no medicine ! but I 
 trust in the Lord, who healeth His people. 
 
 19M. Chitapangwa begged me to stay another day, that 
 one of the boys might mend his blanket ; it has been worn 
 every night since April, and I, being weak and giddy, 
 consented.
 
 CHAPTER Yin. 
 ON THE SOUTHEKN SHOKES OF TANGANYIKA. 
 
 TTIEBKUARY 20xH, 1867. I told the chief before starting 
 J- that my heart was sore, because he was not sending me 
 away so cordially as I liked. He at once ordered men to 
 start with us, and gave me a brass knife with ivory sheath, 
 which he had long worn, as a memorial. He explained that 
 we ought to go north as, if we made easting, we should 
 ultimately be obliged to turn west, and all our cloth would 
 be expended ere we reached the Lake Tanganyika ; he took 
 a piece of clay off the ground and rubbed it on his tongue as 
 an oath that what he said was true, and came along with us 
 to see that all was right ; and so we parted. "We soon 
 ascended the plateau, which encloses with its edge the 
 village and stream of Molemba. 
 
 22nd. We came to a perennial rivulet running north, the 
 Mernngu. Here we met Moamba's people, but declined 
 going to his village, as huts are disagreeable ; they often have 
 vermin, and one is exposed to the gaze of a crowd through a 
 very small doorway. The people in their curiosity often 
 make the place dark, and the impudent ones offer character- 
 istic remarks, then raise a laugh, and run away. 
 
 We encamped on the Merungu's right bank in forest, 
 sending word to Moamba that we meant to do so. He sent 
 a deputation, first of all his young men, to bring us ; then 
 old men, and lastly he came himself with about sixty follow- 
 ers. I explained that I had become sick by living in a little 
 hut at Molemba; that I was better in the open air; that huts
 
 1LOAMBA AS A JUDGE. 119 
 
 contained vermin ; and that I did not mean to remain any 
 while here, but go on our way. He pressed us to come to 
 his village, and gave us a goat and kid, with a huge calabashful 
 of beer. I promised to go over and visit him next day ; and 
 went accordingly. 
 
 %3rd. Moamba's village was a mile off, and on the left 
 bank of the Merenge, a larger stream than the Merungu 
 flowing north and having its banks and oozes covered with 
 fine, tall, straight, evergreen trees. The village is surrounded 
 with a stockade, and a dry ditch some fifteen or twenty feet 
 wide, and as many deep. I had a long talk with Moamba, a 
 big, stout, public-house-looking person, with a slight outward 
 cast in his left eye, but intelligent and hearty. I presented 
 him with a cloth ; and he gave me as much mae're meal as a 
 man could carry, with a large basket of ground-nuts. He 
 wished us to come to the Merenge, if not into his village, 
 that he might see and talk with me. 
 
 He was very anxious to know why we were going to Tan- 
 ganyika ; for what we came ; what we should buy there ; and 
 if I had any relations there. He then showed me some fine 
 large tusks, eight feet six in length. " What do you wish to 
 buy, if not slaves or ivory ?" I replied, that the only thing 
 I had seen worth buying was a fine fat chief like him, a8 a 
 specimen, and a woman feeding him, as he had, with beer. 
 He was tickled at this ; and said that when we reached our 
 country, I must put fine clothes on him. 
 
 2-yA. I went over after service, but late, as the rain 
 threatened to be heavy. A case was in process of hearing, 
 and one old man spoke an hour on end, the chief listening 
 all the while with the gravity of a judge. He then delivered 
 his decision in about five minutes, the successful litigant 
 going off lullilooing. Each person, before addressing him, 
 turns his back to him and lies down on the ground, clapping 
 the hands : this is the common mode of salutation. Another 
 form here in Lobemba is to rattle the arrows or an arrow on 
 the bow, which all carry. "We had a little talk with the 
 chief ; but it was late before the cause was heard through.
 
 120 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 He asked us to come and spend one night near him on the 
 Merenge, and then go on, BO we came over in the morning 
 to the vicinity of his village. A great deal of copper-wire is 
 here made, the wire-drawers using for one part of the process 
 a seven-inch cable. They make very fine wire, and it is used 
 chiefly as leglets and anklets ; the chief's wives being laden 
 with them, and obliged to walk in a stately style from the 
 weight : the copper comes from Katanga. 
 
 26th. With the chief's men we did not get on well, but 
 with himself all was easy. His men demanded prepayment 
 for canoes to cross the river Loombe ; but in the way that he 
 put it, the request was not unreasonable, as he gave a man 
 to smooth our way, and get canoes, or whatever else was 
 needed, all the way to Chibue's. I gave a cloth when he 
 put it thus, and he presented a goat, a spear ornamented 
 with copper-wire, abundance of meal, beer, and numbo; so 
 we parted good friends, as his presents were worth the cloth. 
 
 6th March, 1867. We came after a short march to a 
 village on the Molilanga ; here we meet with bananas for the 
 first time, called, as in Lunda, nkonde. A few trophies from 
 Mazitu are hung up : Chitapangwa had twenty-four skulls 
 ornamenting his stockade. The Babemba are decidedly 
 more warlike than any of the tribes south of them: their 
 villages are stockaded, and have deep dry ditches round 
 them, so it is likely that Mochimbe will be effectually checked, 
 and forced to turn his energies to something else than to 
 marauding. 
 
 Our man from Moamba here refused to go further, and 
 we were put on the wrong track by the headman wading 
 through three marshes, each at least half a mile broad. The 
 people of the first village we came to shut their gates on us, 
 then came running after us; but we declined to enter their 
 village: it is a way of showing their independence. We 
 made our sheds on a height in spite of their protests. They 
 said that the gates were shut by the boys ; but when I pointed 
 out the boy who had done it, he said that he had been ordered 
 to do it by the chief. If we had gone in now we should
 
 BELLIGERENT NATIVES. 121 
 
 have been looked on as having coine under considerable 
 obligations. 
 
 8th. We went on to a village on the Loombe, where the 
 people showed an opposite disposition, for not a soul was in 
 it all were out at their farms. When the good wife of the 
 place came she gave us all huts, which saved us from a pelt- 
 ing shower. The boys herding the goats did not stir as we 
 passed down the sides of the lovely valley. The herdsman 
 said we were welcome, and he would show the crossing next 
 day ; he also cooked some food for us. 
 
 All the people are now transplanting tobacco from the 
 spaces under the eaves of the huts into the fields. It seems 
 unable to bear the greater heat of summer : they plant also a 
 kind of liranda, proper for the cold weather. 
 
 10th. I have been ill of fever ever since we left Hoamba's ; 
 every step I take jars in the chest, and I am very weak ; I 
 can scarcely keep up the march, though formerly I was 
 always first, and had to hold in my pace not to leave the 
 people altogether. I have a constant singing in the ears, 
 and can scarcely hear the loud tick of the chronometers. 
 The appetite is good, but we have no proper food, chiefly 
 mae're meal or beans, or mapemba or ground-nuts, rarely a 
 fowl. 
 
 ~L~Lth. Detained by a set-in rain. We saw an old iron 
 furnace, and masses of haematite, which seems to have been 
 the ore universally used. 
 
 12th. Rain held us back for some time, but we soon 
 reached Chibue, a stockaded village. Like them all, it is 
 situated by a stream, with a dense clump of trees on the 
 waterside of some species of mangrove. 
 
 15A. We now are making for Kasonso, the chief of the 
 lake, and a very large country all around it. Everyone 
 carries an axe, as if constantly warring with the forest. My 
 long-continued fever ill disposes me to enjoy the beautiful 
 landscape. 
 
 19A. A party of young men came out of the village near 
 which we had encamped to force us to pay something for not
 
 122 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 going into their village. " The son of a great chief onght 
 to be acknowledged," etc. They had their bows and arrows 
 with them, and all ready for action. 1 told them we had 
 remained near them because they said we could not reach 
 Kasonso that day. Their headman had given us nothing. 
 After talking awhile, and threatening to do a deal to-morrow, 
 they left, and through an Almighty Providence nothing was 
 attempted. We moved on N. "W. in forest, and came to a 
 village of Kasonso in a very lovely valley. 
 
 2Q(h. We found Kasonso situated at the confluence of 
 two streams; he shook hands a long while, and seems a 
 frank sort of man. A shower of rain set the driver ants on 
 the move, and about two hours after we had turned in we 
 were overwhelmed by them. To describe this attack is 
 utterly impossible. I wakened covered with them: my hair 
 was full of them. One by one they cut into the flesh, and 
 the more they are disturbed, the more vicious are their bites ; 
 they become quite insolent. I went outside the hut, but 
 there they swarmed everywhere; they covered the legs, 
 biting furiously ; it is only when they are tired that they 
 leave off. 
 
 28th. Set-in rain and Chumah fell ill. After sleeping in 
 various villages and crossing numerous streams, we cauie to 
 Mombo's village, near the ridge overlooking the lake. 
 
 1st. April 1867. We went up a low ridge of hills at its 
 lowest part, and soon after passing the summit the blue 
 water loomed through the trees. I was detained, but soon 
 heard the boys firing their muskets on reaching the edge of 
 the ridge, which allowed of an undisturbed view. This is 
 the south-eastern end of Liemba, or, as it is sometimes called, 
 Tanganyika. We had to descend at least 2000 feet before 
 we got to the level of the lake. It seems about eighteen or 
 twenty miles broad, and we could see about thirty miles up 
 to the north. Four considerable rivers flow into the space 
 before us. The nearly perpendicular ridge of about 2000 
 feet extends with breaks all around, and there, embosomed 
 in tree-covered rocks, reposes the lake peacefully in the 
 huge cup-shaped cavity.

 
 AT LAKE TANGANYIKA. 125 
 
 I never saw anything so still and peaceful as it 'lies all the 
 morning About noon a gentle breeze springs up, and 
 causes the waves to assume a bluish tinge. Several rocky 
 islands rise in the eastern end, which are inhabited by fish- 
 ermen, who capture abundance of fine large fish, of which 
 they enumerate about twenty-four species. In the north it 
 seems to narrow into a gateway, but the people are miserably 
 deficient in geographical knowledge, and can tell us nothing 
 about it. They suspect us, and we cannot get information, or 
 indeed much of anything else. I feel deeply thankful at 
 having got so far. I am excessively weak cannot walk 
 without tottering, and have constant singing in the head, but 
 the Highest will lead me further. 
 
 After being a fortnight at this lake it still appears one of 
 surpassing loveliness. Its peacef ulness is remarkable, though 
 at times it is said to be lashed up by storms. It lies in a 
 deep basin whose sides are nearly perpendicular, but covered 
 well with trees; the rocks which appear are bright red 
 argillaceous schist ; the trees at present all green : down 
 some of these rocks come beautiful cascades, and buffaloes, 
 elephants, and antelopes wander and graze on the more level 
 spots, while lions roar by night. The level place below is 
 not two miles from the perpendicular. The village (Pam- 
 bete), at which we first touched the lake, is surrounded by 
 palm-oil trees not the stunted ones of Lake Nyassa, but the 
 real West Coast palm-oil tree, requiring two men to carry a 
 bunch of the ripe fruit. In the morning and evening huge 
 crocodiles may be observed quietly making their way to their 
 feeding grounds ; hippopotami snort by night and at early 
 morning. 
 
 After I had been a few days here I had a fit of insensibility, 
 which shows the power of fever without medicine. I found 
 myself floundering outside my hut and unable to get in ; I 
 tried to lift myself from my back by laying hold of two posts 
 at the entrance, but when I got nearly upright I let them go, 
 and fell back heavily on my head on a box. The boys had 
 seen the wretched state I was in, and hung a blanket at the
 
 126 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 entrance of the hut, that no stranger might see my helpless- 
 ness ; some hours elapsed before I could recognize where I 
 was. 
 
 30th. We begin our return march from Liemba. Slept 
 at a village on the lake, and went on next day to Pambete, 
 where we first touched it. 
 
 1st Jtfay, 18C7. We intended to go north-west to see 
 whether this lake narrows or not, for all assert that it 
 maintains its breadth such as we see it beyond Pemba as far 
 as they know it; but when about to start, the headman and 
 his wife came and protested so solemnly that by going N. W. 
 we should walk into the hands of a party of Mazitu there, 
 that we deferred our departure. It was not with a full 
 persuasion of the truth of the statement that I consented, 
 but we afterwards saw good evidence that it was true, and 
 that we were saved from being plundered. These marau- 
 ders have changed their tactics, for they demand so many 
 people, and so many cloths, and then leave. They made 
 it known that their next scene of mulcting would be 
 Mombo's village, and there they took twelve people four 
 slaves, and many cloths, then went south to the hills they 
 inhabit. A strict watch was kept on their movements by our 
 headman and his men. They trust to fleeing into a thicket 
 on the west of the village should the Mazitu come. 
 
 The Mazitu having left, we departed and slept half-way up 
 the ridge. I had another fit of insensibility last night : the 
 muscles of the back lose all power, and there is constant 
 singing in the ears, and inability to do the simplest sum. 
 
 llA. A short march to-day brought us to a village on the 
 Moami, and to avoid a Sunday in the forest we remained. 
 The elephants had come into the village and gone all about 
 it, and to prevent their opening the corn safes the people 
 had bedaubed them with elephant's droppings. 
 
 122A-13A. News that the Arabs had been fighting with 
 Nsama came, but this made us rather anxious to get north- 
 ward along Liemba, and we made for Mokambola's village 
 near the edge of the precipice which overhangs the lake.
 
 MEET FRIENDLY ARABS. 127 
 
 As we began our descent we saw the Lofu coming from 
 the west and entering Liernba. We came to a village about 
 2' W. of the confluence, whose headman was affable and 
 generous. The village has a meadow some four miles wide 
 on the land side, in which buffaloes disport themselves, but 
 they are very wild and hide in the gigantic grasses. 
 
 We remained here because two were lame, and all tired by 
 the descent of upwards of 2000 feet, and the headman sent 
 for fish for us. He dissuaded us strongly from attempting 
 to go down the Liemba, as the son of Nsama (Kapoma) was 
 killing all who came that way in revenge for what the Arabs 
 had done to his father's people, and he might take us for 
 Arabs. A Suaheli Arab came in the evening, and partly 
 confirmed the statements of the headman of Karambo ; I 
 resolved therefore to go back to Chitimba's in the south, 
 where the chief portion of the Arabs are assembled, and 
 hear from them more certainly. 
 
 18th. Return to Mokambola's village, and leave for 
 Chitimba's. Baraka stopped behind at the village, and 
 James ran away to him, leaving his bundle, containing three 
 chronometers, in the path : I sent back for them, and James 
 came up in the evening ; he had no complaint, and no 
 excuse to make. The two think it will be easy to return to 
 their own country by begging, though they could not point 
 it out to me when we were much nearer to where it is sup- 
 posed to be. 
 
 19A. Where we were brought to a standstill was miser- 
 ably cold (55), so we had prayers and went on S. and S.W. 
 to the village of Chisaka. 
 
 20th. Chitimba's village was near in the same direction ; 
 here we found a large party of Arabs, mostly black Suahelis. 
 They occupied an important portion of the stockaded 
 village, and when I came in, politely showed me to a shed 
 where they are in the habit of meeting. After explaining 
 whence I had come, I showed them the Sultan's letter. 
 Hamees presented a goat, two fowls, and a quantity of flour. 
 It was difficult to get to the bottom of the Nsama affair, but
 
 128 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 according to their version that chief sent an invitation to 
 them, and when they arrived called for his people, who came 
 in crowds as he said to view the strangers. I suspect that 
 the Arabs became afraid of the crowds and began to fire ; 
 several were killed on both sides, and Nsama fled, leaving 
 his visitors in possession of the stockaded village and all it 
 contained. Others say that there was a dispute about an 
 elephant, arid that Nsama's people were the aggressors. At 
 any rate it is now all confusion ; those who remain at 
 Nsama's village help themselves to food in the surrounding 
 villages and burn them, while Chitimba has sent for the 
 party who are quartered here to come to him. An hour or 
 two after we arrived, a body of men came from Kasonso, 
 with the intention of proceeding into the country of Nsama, 
 and if possible catching Nsama, " he having broken public 
 law by attacking people who brought merchandise into the 
 country." This new expedition makes the Arabs resolve to 
 go and do what they can to injure their enemy. It will just 
 be a plundering foray each catching what he can, whether 
 animal or human, and retiring when it is no longer safe to 
 plunder ! 
 
 This throws the barrier of a broad country between me 
 and Lake " Moero " in the west, but I trust in Providence a 
 way will be opened. I think now of going southwards and 
 then westwards, thus making a long detour round the 
 disturbed district. 
 
 The name of the principal Arab is Hamees Wodim Tagh, 
 the other is Syde bin Alle bin Mansure : they are connected 
 with one of the most influential native mercantile houses 
 in Zanzibar. Hamees has been particularly kind to me in 
 presenting food, beads, cloth, and getting information. 
 
 Thami bin Suaelirn is the Arab to whom my goods are 
 directed at Ujiji. 
 
 24^A. At Chitimba's we are waiting to see what events 
 turn up to throw light on our western route. Some of the 
 Arabs and Kasonso's men went off to-day : they will bring 
 information perhaps as to Nsama's haunts, and then we shall 
 move south and thence west.
 
 WAR BETWEEN THE ARABS AND NSAMA. 129 
 
 i. Information came that Nsama begged pardon of 
 the Arabs, and would pay all that they had lost. He did 
 not know of his people stealing from them : we shall hear 
 in a day or two whether the matter is to be patched up or 
 not. While some believe his statements, others say, 
 " Nsama's words of peace are simply to gain time to make 
 another stockade : " in the mean time Kasonso's people will 
 ravage all his country on this eastern side. 
 
 Hamees is very anxious that I should remain a few days 
 longer, till Kasonso's son, Kampamba, comes with certain 
 information, and then he will see to our passing safely to 
 Chiwere's village from Kasonso's. All have confidence in 
 this last-named chief as an upright man. 
 
 \st June, 1867. Another party of marauders went off this 
 morning to plunder Nsama's country to the west of the 
 confluence of the Lofu as a punishment for a breach of public 
 law. The men employed are not very willing to go, but 
 when they taste the pleasure of plunder, they will relish it 
 more! 
 
 The Arabs inform me that between this and the sea, about 
 200 miles distant, lies the country of the "Wasango called 
 Usango a fair people, like Portuguese, and very friendly to 
 strangers. The Wasango possesses plenty of cattle: their 
 chief is called Merere. 
 
 The country in which we now are is called by the Arabs 
 and natives Ulungu, that farther north-west is named 
 Marungu. Hamees is on friendly terms with the Mazitu 
 (Watuta) in the east, who do not plunder. 
 
 There is nothing interesting in a heathen town. All are 
 busy in preparing food or clothing, mats or baskets, whilst 
 the women are cleaning or grinding their corn, which 
 involves much hard labor. They first dry this in the sun, 
 then put it into a mortar, and afterwards with a flat basket 
 clean off the husks and the dust, and grind it between two 
 stones ; the next thing is to bring wood and water to cook it. 
 The chief here was aroused the other day, and threatened 
 to burn his own house and all his property because the 
 people stole from it, but he did not proceed so far : it was 
 o
 
 130 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 probably a way of letting the Arab dependants know that he 
 was aroused. 
 
 Some of the people who went to fight attacked a large 
 village, and killed several men ; but in shooting in a bushy 
 place they killed one of their own party and wounded 
 another. 
 
 I am rather perplexed how to proceed. Some Arabs seem 
 determined to go westwards as soon as they can make it up 
 with Nsama, whilst others distrust him. One man will send 
 his people to pick up what ivory they can, but he himself 
 will retire to the Usango country. Nsama is expected to-day 
 or to-morrow. It would be such a saving of time and fatigue 
 for us to go due west, rather than south, and then west, but 
 I feel great hesitation as to setting out on the circuitous 
 route. 
 
 16A. News came to-day that an Arab party in the south- 
 west, in Lunda, lost about forty people by the small-pox. 
 
 17A-19A. Hamees went to meet the party from the 
 south-west, probably to avoid bringing the small-pox here. 
 They remain at about two hours' distance. Hamees reports 
 that though the strangers had lost a great many people by 
 small-pox, they had brought good news of certain Arabs Btill 
 further west : one, Seide ben Umale, or Salem, lived at a 
 village near Casembe, ten days distant, and another, Juma 
 Merikano, or Katata Katanga, at another village further 
 north, and Seide ben Habib was at Phueto, which is nearer 
 Tanganyika. This party comprises the whole force of 
 Hamees, and he now declares that he will go to Nsama and 
 make the matter up, as he thinks that he is afraid to come 
 here, and so he will make the first approach to friendship. 
 
 On pondering over the whole subject, I see that, tiresome 
 as it is to wait, it is better to do so than go south and then 
 west, for if I should go I shall miss seeing Moero, which is 
 said to be three days from Nsama's present abode. Hamees 
 remarked that it was the Arab way first to smooth the path 
 before entering upon it ; sending men and presents first, 
 thereby ascertaining the disposition of the inhabitants. He
 
 AN ARAB WEDDING. 131 
 
 advises patience, and is in hopes of making a peace with 
 Nsama. 
 
 2th. The Arabs are all busy reading their Koran, and in 
 praying for direction ; to-morrow they will call a meeting to 
 deliberate as to what steps they will take in the Nsama affair. 
 Hamees, it seems, is highly thought of by that chief, who 
 says, "Let him come, and all will be right." Hamees pro- 
 poses to go with but a few people. These Zanzibar men are 
 very different from the slavers of the Waiyau country. 
 
 25th. It was decided at the meeting that Hamees, with a 
 few people only, should go to Nsama on the first day after 
 the appearance of the new moon (they are very particular on 
 this point) ; the present month having been an unhappy one 
 they will try the next. 
 
 28tfA. A wedding took place among the Arabs to-day. 
 About a hundred blank cartridges were fired off, and a pro- 
 cession of males, dressed in their best, marched through the 
 village. They sang with all their might, though with but 
 little music in the strain. Women sprinkled grain on their 
 heads as wishes for plenty. 
 
 Nsama is said to be waiting for the Arabs in his new 
 stockade. It is impossible to ascertain exactly who is to 
 blame in this matter, for I hear one side only. 
 
 6th July, 1867. An earthquake happened at 3.30 p. M., 
 accompanied with a hollow rumbling sound ; it made me feel 
 as if afloat, but it lasted only a few seconds. The boys came 
 running to ask me what it was. Nowhere could it be safer ; 
 the huts will not fall, and there are no high rocks near. 
 
 1th. Hamees started this morning with about 300 follow- 
 ers dressed in all their finery, and he declares that his sole 
 object is peace. Kasonso, Mombo, Chitimba send their peo- 
 ple, and go themselves to lend all their influence in favor of 
 peace. Syde stops here. Before starting Syde put some 
 incense on hot coals, and all the leaders of the party joined in a 
 short prayer ; they seem earnest and sincere in their incanta- 
 tions, according to their knowledge and belief. I wished to 
 go too, but Hamees objected, as not being quite sure whether
 
 132 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Nsaraa would be friendly, and he would not like anything to 
 befall me when with him. 
 
 8th My remaining here enables me to observe that both 
 men and women are in almost constant employment. The 
 men are making mats, or weaving, or spinning ; no one could 
 witness their assiduity in their little affairs and conclude that 
 they were a lazy people. The only idle time I observe here 
 is in the mornings about seven o'clock, when all come and 
 sit to catch the first rays of the sun as he comes over our 
 clump of trees, but even that time is often taken as an op- 
 portunity for stringing beads. 
 
 14M. Hamees crossed the Lovu to-day at a fordable spot. 
 The people on the other side refused to go with a message to 
 Nsama, so Hamees had to go and compel them by destroying 
 their stockade. A second village acted in the same way, 
 though told that it was only peace that was sought of JS T sama : 
 this stockade suffered the same fate, and then the people went 
 to Nsama, and he showed no reluctance to have intercourse. 
 He gave abundance of food, pombe, and bananas ; the coun- 
 try being extremely fertile. Nsama also came and ratified 
 the peace by drinking blood with several of the underlings 
 of Hamees. He is said to be an enormously bloated old man, 
 who cannot move unless carried, and women are constantly 
 in attendance pouring pombe into him. He gave Hamees 
 ten tusks, and promised him twenty more, and also to en- 
 deavor to make his people return what goods they plundered 
 from the Arabs, and he is to send his people over here to call 
 us after the new moon appears. 
 
 It is tiresome beyond measure to wait so long, but I hope 
 to see Moero for this exercise of patience, and I could not 
 have visited it had Hamees not succeeded in making peace. 
 
 Vlth. A lion roared very angrily at the village last night, 
 he was probably following the buffaloes that sometimes come 
 here to drink at night : they are all very shy, and so is all the 
 game, from fear of arrows. 
 
 Chitimba has left us from a fear of his life, he says ; it is 
 probable that he means this flight to be used as an excuse to
 
 PEACE DECLARED TIPO TIPO. 133 
 
 Nsama after we are gone. "And I, too, was obliged to flee 
 from my village to save my life ! What could I do ? " This 
 is to be his argument, I suspect. 
 
 24^7*. "When Nsama was told that an Englishman wished 
 to go past him to Moero, he replied, " Bring him, and I shall 
 send men to take him thither." 
 
 Hamees is building a " tembe," or house, with a flat roof, 
 and walls plastered over with mud, to keep his ivory from 
 fire while he is absent. "We expect that Nsama will send 
 for us a few days after the 2nd August, when the new moon 
 appears ; if they do not come soon, Hamees will send men to 
 Nsama without waiting for his messengers. 
 
 282A. Prayers, with the Litany. Slavery is a great evil 
 wherever I have seen it. A poor old woman and child are 
 among the captives, the boy about three years old seems a 
 mother's pet. His feet are sore from walking in the sun. 
 He was offered for two fathoms, and his mother for one 
 fathom ; he understood it all, and cried bitterly, clinging to 
 his mother. She had, of course, no power to help him ; they 
 were separated at Karungu afterwards. 
 
 %9th. Went 2-J- hours west to village of Ponda, where a 
 head Arab, called by the natives Tipo Tipo, lives ; his name 
 is Hamid bin Mohamad bin Juma Borajib. He presented a 
 goat, a piece of white calico, and four big bunches of beads, 
 also a bag of Holcus sorghum, and apologized because it was 
 so little. He had lost much by Nsama ; and received two 
 arrow wounds there ; they had only twenty guns at the time, 
 but some were in the stockade, ,and though the people of 
 Nsama were very numerous they beat them off, and they fled 
 carrying the bloated carcass of Nsama with them. 
 
 The people seem to have no family names. A man takes 
 the name of his mother, or should his father die he may 
 assume that. Marriage is forbidden to the first, second, and 
 third degrees : they call first and second cousins, brothers 
 and sisters.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 TO LAKE MOERO AND CASEMBE'S TOWN. 
 
 AUGUST IST, 1867. Chronometer A stopped to-day 
 without any apparent cause, except the earthquake. It 
 is probably malaria which causes that constant singing in my 
 ears ever since my illness at Lake Liemba. 
 
 5th. Men came yesterday with the message that Hamees 
 must wait a little longer, as Nsama had not yet got all the 
 ivory and the goods which were stolen : they remained over 
 yesterday. 
 
 Slaves are sold here in the same open way that the business 
 is carried on in Zanzibar slave-market. A man goes about 
 calling out the price he wants for the slave, who walks behind 
 him ; if a woman, she is taken into a hut to be examined in a 
 state of nudity. 
 
 25A. Nsama requested the Arabs to give back his son 
 who was captured ; some difficulty was made about this by 
 his captor, but Hamees succeeded in getting him and about 
 nine others, and they are sent off to-day. We wait only for 
 the people, who are scattered about the country. . 
 
 3(MA. We marched to-day from Chitimba's village after 
 three months and ten days' delay. On reaching Ponda, 2^ 
 hours distant, we found Tipo Tipo, or Hamidi bin Mohamad, 
 gone on, and so we followed him. 
 
 1st September, 1867. We had to march in the afternoon 
 on account of a dry patch existing in the direct way. We 
 slept without water. 
 
 Baraka went back to Tipo Tipo's village, thus putting his 
 intention of begging among the Arab slaves into operation.
 
 ACROSS THE LOFU VISIT NSAMA. 135 
 
 He lias only one complaint, and that is dislike to work. He 
 tried perseveringly to get others to run away with him ; lost 
 the medicine-box, six tablecloths, and all our tools by giving 
 his load off to a country lad while he went to collect mush- 
 rooms : he will probably return to Zanzibar, and be a slave 
 to the Arab slaves after being a perpetual nuisance to us for 
 upwards of a year. 
 
 2nd. When we reached the ford of the Lofu, we found 
 that we were at least a thousand feet below Chitimba's. 
 
 The Lofu at the ford was 296 feet, the water flowing 
 briskly over hardened sandstone flag, and from thigh to waist 
 deep; elsewhere it is a little narrower, but not passable 
 except by canoes. 
 
 4th-5th. "Went seven hours west of the Lofu to a village 
 called Hara, one of those burned by Hamees because the 
 people would not take a peaceful message to Nsama. This 
 country is called Itawa, and Hara is one of the districts. 
 "We waited at Hara to see if Nsama wished us any nearer to 
 himself. He is very much afraid of the Arabs, and well he 
 may be, for he was until lately supposed to be invincible. 
 He fell before twenty muskets, and this has caused a panic 
 throughout the country. The land is full of food, though 
 the people have nearly all fled. 
 
 $th. "Went three hours west of Hara, and came to Nsama's 
 new stockade, built close by the old one burned by Tipo 
 Tipo, as Hamidi bin Mohamad was named by Nsama. I sent 
 a message to Nsama, and received an invitation to come and 
 visit him, but bring no guns. A large crowd of his people 
 went with us, and before we came to the inner stockade they 
 felt my clothes to see that no fire-arms were concealed about 
 my person. When we reached Nsama, we found a very old 
 man, with a good head and face and a large abdomen, show- 
 ing that he was addicted to pombe : his people have to carry 
 him. I gave him a cloth, and asked for guides to Moero, 
 which he readily granted, and asked leave to feel my clothes 
 and hair. He sent me a goat, flour, and pombe, and next 
 day we returned to Hara.
 
 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Nsama's people have generally small, well-chiseled features, 
 and many are really handsome, and have nothing of the West 
 Coast negro about them, but they file their teeth to sharp 
 points, and greatly disfigure their mouths. The only differ- 
 ence between them and Europeans is the color. Many of the 
 men have very finely formed heads, and so have the women ; 
 and the fashion of wearing the hair sets oif their foreheads 
 to advantage. 
 
 lO^A. Some people of ITjiji have come to Nsama's to buy 
 ivory with beads, but, finding that the Arabs have forestalled 
 them in the market, they intend to return in their dhow, -or 
 rather canoe, which is manned by about fifty hands. I sent 
 a box, containing papers, books, and some clothes, to Ujiji. 
 
 llth. I remained at Hara, for I was ill, and Hamees had 
 no confidence in Nsama, because he promised his daughter to 
 wife by way of cementing the peace, but had not given her. 
 Nsama also told Hamees to stay at Hara, and he would send 
 him ivory for sale, but none came, nor do people come here 
 to sell provisions, as they do elsewhere; so Hamees will 
 return to Chitimba's, to guard his people and property there, 
 and send on Syde Hamidi and his servants to Lopere, Ka- 
 buire, and Moero, to buy ivory. 
 
 The entire population of the country has received a shock 
 from the conquest of Nsama, and their views of the compara- 
 tive values of bows and arrows and guns have undergone a 
 great change. Nsama was the Napoleon of these countries ; 
 no one could stand before him, hence the defeat of the invin- 
 cible Nsama has caused a great panic. The Arabs say that 
 they lost about fifty men in all : Nsama must have lost at 
 least an equal number. The people seem intelligent, and 
 will no doubt act on the experience so dearly bought. 
 
 In the midst of the doubts of Hamees, a daughter of 
 Nsama came this afternoon to be a wife and cementer of the 
 peace ! She came riding " pickaback " on a man's shoulders ; 
 a nice, modest, good-looking young woman, her hair rubbed 
 all over with nkola, a red pigment, made from the camwood, 
 and much used as an ornament. She was accompanied by
 
 RECEPTION OP HAMEES' BRIDE. 139 
 
 about a dozen young and old female . attendants, each carry- 
 ing a small basket with some provisions, as cassava, ground- 
 nuts, &c. The Arabs were all dressed in their finery, and 
 the slaves, in fantastic dresses, flourished swords, fired guns, 
 and yelled.' "When she was brought to Hamees' hut she 
 descended, and with her maids went into the hut. She 
 and her attendants had all small, neat features. I had been 
 sitting with Hamees, and now rose up and went away ; as I 
 passed him, he spoke thus to himself: "Hamees "Wadim 
 Tagh ! see to what you have brought yourself! ! " 
 
 15A. A guide had come from Nsama to take us to the 
 countries beyond his territory. Hamees set off this morning 
 with his new wife to his father-in-law, but was soon met by 
 two messengers, who said that he was not to come yet. 
 
 16A-18A. Hamidi went to Nsama to try and get guides, 
 but he would not let him come into his stockade unless he 
 came up to it without either gun or sword. Hamidi would 
 not go in on these conditions, but Nsama promised guides, 
 and they came after a visit by Hamees to Nsama, which he 
 paid without telling any of us : he is evidently ashamed of 
 his father-in-law. 
 
 Those Arabs who despair of ivory invest their remaining 
 beads and cloth in slaves. 
 
 20th. I had resolved to go to Nsama's, and thence to 
 Moero to-day, but Hamees sent to say that men. had come, 
 and we were all to go with them on the 22nd. Hamees' wife, 
 seeing the preparations that were made for starting, thought 
 that her father was to be attacked, so she, her attendants, and 
 the guides decamped by night. Hamees went again to 
 Nsama and got other guides to enable us to get off at once. 
 
 22n< "We went north for a couple of hours, then de- 
 scended into the same valley as that in which I found Nsama. 
 
 23rd. A fire had broken out the night after we left Kara, 
 and the wind being strong, it got the upper hand, and swept 
 away at once the whole of the temporary village of dry 
 straw huts: Hamees lost all his beads, guns, powder, and 
 cloth, except one bale. The news came this morning, and
 
 140 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 prayers were at once offered for him with incense; some 
 goods will also be sent, as a little incense was. The prayer- 
 book was held in the smoke of the incense while the responses 
 were made. These Arabs seem to be very religious in their 
 way : the prayers were chiefly to Harasji, some relative of 
 Mohamad. 
 
 25^A. Off at 5:30 A.M., through the same well-grown forest 
 we have passed and came to a village stockade, where the 
 gates were shut, and the men all outside, in fear of the Arabs ; 
 we then descended from the ridge on which it stood, about a 
 thousand feet, into an immense plain, with a large river in 
 the distance, some ten miles off. 
 
 26th. Two and a half hours brought us to the large river 
 we saw yesterday. It is called Chisera. 
 
 %0th. We crossed the Kamosenga, or another river, and 
 reach Karungu's. 
 
 \st October, 1867. Karungu was very much afraid of us; 
 he kept every one out of his stockade at first, but during the 
 time the Arabs sent forward to try and conciliate other chiefs 
 he gradually became more friendly. Men were also sent to 
 Nsama asking him to try and induce Mteina and Chikongo 
 to be friendly and sell ivory and provisions, but he replied 
 that these chiefs were not men under him, and if they thought 
 themselves strong enough to contend against guns he had 
 nothing to say to them. Other chiefs threatened to run away 
 as soon as they saw the Arabs approaching. These were 
 assured that we meant to pass through the country alone, 
 and if they gave us guides to show us how, we should avoid 
 the villages altogether, and proceed to the countries where 
 ivory was to be bought ; however, the panic was too great, 
 no one would agree to our overtures, and at last when we did 
 proceed, a chief on the River Choma fulfilled his threat and 
 left us three empty villages. There were no people to sell, 
 though the granaries were crammed, and it was impossible to 
 prevent the slaves from stealing. 
 
 Srd-Ath. "When Chikongo heard Tipo Tipo's message 
 about buying ivory he said, " And when did Tipo Tipo place
 
 AN ARAB FUNERAL-LIVINGSTONE ILL. 
 
 ivory in my country that he comes seeking it ? " Yet he sent 
 a tusk, and said, " That is all I have, and he is not to conie 
 here." I wished to go on to Moero, but all declare that our 
 ten guns would put all the villages to flight : they are terror- 
 struck. 
 
 16A. An Arab who had been long ill at Chitimba's died 
 yesterday, and was buried in the evening. ^No women were 
 allowed to come near. A long, silent prayer was uttered over 
 the corpse when it was laid beside the grave, and then a cloth 
 was held over as men in it deposited the remains beneath 
 sticks placed slanting on the side of the bottom of the grave ; 
 this keeps the earth from coming directly into contact with 
 the body. 
 
 A feast was made by the friends of the departed, and por- 
 tions sent to all who had attended the funeral : I got a good 
 share. 
 
 18th. The last we hear of Nsama is that he will not inter- 
 fere with Chikongo. Two wives beat drums and he dances 
 to them ; he is evidently in his dotage. "VYe hear of many 
 Arabs to the west of us. 
 
 20th. Yery ill ; I am always so when I have no work 
 sore bones much headache ; thgn lost power over the mus- 
 cles of the back, as at Liemba ; no appetite and much thirst ; 
 the fever uninfluenced by medicine. 
 
 22nd. The final message from Chikongo was a discour- 
 aging one no ivory. The Arabs, however, go west with me 
 as far as Chisawe's, who, being accustomed to Arabs from 
 Tanganyika, will give me men to take me on to Moero : the 
 Arabs will then return, and we shall move on. 
 
 When a slave wishes to change his master he goes to one 
 whom lie likes better and breaks a spear or a bow in his pres- 
 ence ; the transference is irrevocable. If the old master 
 wishes to recover his slave, the new one may refuse to part 
 with him except when he gets his full price : a case of this 
 kind happened here yesterday. 
 
 25th. Authority was found in the Koran for staying one 
 day more here. This was very trying ; but the fact was our
 
 14-2 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 guide from Hara hither had enticed a young slave girl to run 
 away, and he had given her in charge to one of his country- 
 men, who turned round and tried to secure her for himself, 
 and gave information about the other enticing her away. 
 Nothing can be more tedious than the Arab way of traveling. 
 
 27A. Off early in a fine, drizzling rain, which continued 
 for two hours, and came on to a plain about three miles broad, 
 full of large game. 
 
 28^A. Five hours brought us to the Choma River and the 
 villages of Chifupa, but, as already mentioned, the chief and 
 people had fled, and no persuasion could prevail on them to 
 come and sell us food. We showed a few who ventured to 
 come among us what we were willing to give for flour, but 
 they said, " Yes, we will call the women and they will sell." 
 None came. 
 
 3Qth. Two ugly images were found in huts built for them : 
 they represent in a poor way the people of the country, and 
 are used in rain-making and curing the sick ceremonies ; this 
 is the nearest approach to idol worship I have seen in the 
 country. 
 
 31st. We were met by a herd of buffaloes, but Syde seized 
 my gun from the boy who carried it, and when the animals 
 came close past me I was powerless, and not at all pleased 
 with the want of good sense shown by my usually polite 
 Arab friend. 
 
 2nd November, 1867. These valleys along which we travel 
 are beautiful. Green is the prevailing color ; but the clumps 
 of trees assume a great variety of forms, and often remind 
 one of English park scenery. The long line of slaves and 
 carriers, brought up by their Arab employers, adds life to the 
 scene; they are in three bodies, and number 450 in all. 
 Each party has a guide with a flag, and when that is planted 
 all that company stops till it is lifted, and a drum is beaten, 
 and a kudu's horn sounded. One party is headed by about a 
 dozen leaders, dressed with fantastic head-gear of feathers 
 and beads, red cloth on the bodies, and skins cut into strips 
 and twisted : they take their places in line, the drum beats,
 
 ARAB SLAVERS ON THE MARCH. 143 
 
 the horn sounds harshly, and all fall in. These sounds seem 
 to awaken a sort of esprit de corps in those who have once 
 been slaves. My attendants now jumped up, and would 
 scarcely allow me time to dress, when they heard the sounds 
 of their childhood, and all day they were among the foremost. 
 One said to me " that his feet were rotten with marching," 
 and this though told that they were not called on to race 
 along like slaves. 
 
 The Africans cannot stand sneers. "When any mishap 
 occurs in the march (as when a branch tilts a load off a man's 
 shoulder) all who see it set up a yell of derision ; if anything 
 is accidentally spilled, or if one is tired and sits down, the 
 same yell greets him, and all are excited thereby to exert 
 themselves. They hasten on with their loads, and hurry with 
 the sheds they build, the masters only bringing up the rear, 
 and helping any one who may be sick. The distances trav- 
 eled were quite as much as the masters or we could bear. 
 Had frequent halts been made as, for instance, a half or a 
 quarter of an hour at the end of every hour or two but little 
 distress would have been felt ; but five hours at a stretch is 
 more than men can bear in a hot climate. The female slaves 
 held on bravely ; nearly all carried loads on their heads, the 
 head, or lady, of the party, who is also the wife of the Arab, 
 was the only exception. She had a fine white shawl, with 
 ornaments of gold and silver on her head. These ladies had 
 a jaunty walk, and never gave in on the longest march ; many 
 pounds' weight of fine copper leglets above the ankles seemed 
 only to help the sway of their walk : as soon as they arrive 
 at the sleeping-place they begin to cook, and in this art they 
 show a good deal of expertness, making savory dishes for 
 their masters out of wild fruits and other not very likely 
 materials. 
 
 3rd. The ranges of hills retire as we advance ; the soil is 
 very rich. At two villages the people did not want us, so we 
 went on and encamped near a third, Kabwakwa, where a son 
 of Mohamad bin Saleh, with a number of Wanyamwesi, lives. 
 The chief of this part is Muabo, but we did not see him :
 
 144 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 the people brought plenty of food for us to buy. The youth's 
 father is at Casembe's. The country-people were very much 
 given to falsehood every place inquired for was near ivory 
 abundant provisions of all sorts cheap and plenty. Our 
 headmen trusted to these statements of this young man rather, 
 and he led them to desist going further. Kua country was a 
 month distant, he said, and but little ivory there. It is but 
 three days oif. (We saw it after three days.) " No ivory at 
 Casembe's or here in Buire, or Kabuire." He was right as 
 to Casembe. Letters, however, came from Hamees, with 
 news of a depressing nature. Chitimba is dead, and so is 
 Mambwe. Chitimba's people are fighting for the chieftain- 
 ship : great hunger prevails there now, the Arabs having 
 bought up all the food. 
 
 This unfavorable news from a part where the chief results 
 of their trading were deposited, made Syde and Tipo Tipo 
 decide to remain in Buire only ten or twenty days, send out 
 people to buy what ivory they could find, and then retire. 
 
 As Syde and Tipo Tipo were sending men to Casembe for 
 ivory, I resolved to go thither first, instead of shaping my 
 course for Ujiji. 
 
 lih. Start for Moero, convoyed by all the Arabs for some 
 distance : they have been extremely kind. 
 
 8th. Villages are very thickly studded over the valley 
 formed by Kakoma range, and another at a greater distance 
 on our right ; 100 or 200 yards is a common distance between 
 these villages, which, like those in Londa, are all shaded with 
 trees of a species of Ficus indica. One belongs to Puta, and 
 this Puta, the paramount chief, sent to say that if we slept 
 there, and gave him a cloth, he would send men to conduct 
 us next day, and ferry us across: I was willing to remain, 
 but his people would not lend a hut, so we came on to the 
 lake, and no ferry. 
 
 Lake Moero seems of goodly size, and is flanked by ranges 
 of mountains on the east and west. Its banks are of coarse 
 sand, and slope gradually down to the water : outside these 
 banks stands a thick belt of tropical vegetation, in which
 
 REACH LUNDA LAKE MOERO. 
 
 fishermen build their huts. The country called Rua lies on 
 the west, and is seen as a lofty range of dark mountains : 
 another range of less height, but more broken, stands along 
 the eastern shore, and in it lies the path to Casembe. We 
 slept in a fisherman's hut on the north shore. 
 
 The northern shore has a fine sweep like an unbent bow, 
 and round the western end flows the water that makes the 
 river Lualaba, which, before it enters Moero, is the Luapula, 
 and that again (if the most intelligent reports speak true) is 
 the Chambeze before it enters Lake Bemba, or Bangweolo. 
 
 We came along the north shore till we reached the eastern 
 flanking range, then ascended and turned south, the people 
 very suspicious, shutting their gates as we drew near. We 
 were alone, and only nine persons in all, but they must have 
 had reason for fear. One headman refused us admission, then 
 sent after us, saying that the man who had refused admission 
 was not the chief: he had come from a distance, and had just 
 arrived. It being better to appear friendly than otherwise, 
 we went back, and were well entertained. Provisions were 
 given when we went away. The people here are Babemba, 
 but beyond the river Kalongosi they are all Balunda. 
 
 A trade in salt is carried on from different salt springs and 
 salt mud to Lunda and elsewhere. We meet parties of salt- 
 traders daily, and they return our salutations very cordially, 
 rubbing earth on the arms. 
 
 12th. We came to the Kalongosi, about 60 yards wide, 
 and flowing fast over stones. It is deep enough, even now 
 when the rainy season is not commenced, to require canoes. 
 Fish in great numbers are caught when ascending to spawn : 
 they are secured by weirs, nets, hooks. Large, strong bas- 
 kets are placed in the rapids, and filled with stones : when the 
 water rises these baskets are standing-places for the fishermen 
 to angle or throw their nets. Having crossed the Kalongosi 
 we were now in Lunda, or Londa. 
 
 13A. We saw that the Kalongosi went north till it met 
 a large meadow on the shores of Moero, and, turning west- 
 wards, it entered there. The fishermen gave us the names 
 of 39 species of fish in the lake.
 
 14:6 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 1. Being doubtful as to whether we were in the right 
 path, I sent to a village to inquire. The headman, evidently 
 one of a former Casembe school, came to us full of wrath. 
 " What right had we to come that way, seeing the usual path 
 was to our left ? " He mouthed some sentences in the pomp- 
 ous Lunda style, but would not show us the path ; so we left 
 him, and after going through a forest of large trees, 4K hours 
 south, took advantage of some huts on the Kifurwa River, 
 built by bark-cloth cutters. 
 
 15^A. We now crossed a brook, Chirongo, one yard wide 
 and one deep ; but our march was all through well-grown 
 forest, chiefly gum-copal trees and bark-cloth trees. The 
 gum-copal oozes out in abundance after or during the rains, 
 from holes a quarter of an inch in diameter, made by an 
 insect : it falls, and in time sinks into the soil, a supply for 
 future generations. The small, well-rounded features of the 
 people of Nsama's country are common here, as we observe 
 in the salt-traders and villages ; indeed, this is the home of 
 the Negro, and the features such as we see in pictures 
 of ancient Egyptians, as first pointed out by Mr. Winwood 
 Reade. 
 
 18th. "We rest by the Kabusi, a sluggish narrow rivulet. 
 It runs into the Chungu, a quarter of a mile off. The Chungu 
 is broad but choked with trees and aquatic plants. On this, 
 the Chungu, Dr. Lacerda, died. The statements of the people 
 are confused, but the following is what I have gleaned from 
 many : There were some TJjiji people with the Casembe of 
 the time. The Portuguese and Ujijians began to fight, but 
 Casembe said to them and the Portuguese, " You are all my 
 guests, why should you fight and kill each other ? " He then 
 gave Lacerda ten slaves, and men to live with him and work 
 at building huts, bringing firewood, water, &c. He made 
 similar presents to the Ujijians, which quieted them. Lacerda 
 was but ten days at Chungu when he died. The feud arose 
 from one of Lacerda's people killing an Ujijian at the water : 
 this would certainly be a barrier to their movements. 
 
 By advice of a guide whom we picked up at Kifurwa, we
 
 ARRIVAL AT CASEMBE'S TOWN. 
 
 sent four fathoms of calico to apprise Casembe of our coming : 
 the Arabs usually send ten fathoms ; in our case it was a very 
 superfluous notice, for Casembe is said to have been tele- 
 graphed to by runners at every stage of our progress after 
 crossing the Kalongosi. 
 
 "We remain by the Chungu until Casembe sends one of his 
 counsellors to guide us to his town. It has been so per- 
 petually clouded over that we have been unable to make out 
 our progress, and the dense forest prevented us seeing Moero 
 as we wished : rain and thunder perpetually, though the rain 
 seldom fell where we were. The soil is very rich. Casembe's 
 ground-nuts are the largest I have seen, and so is the cassava. 
 I got over a pint of palm oil for a cubit of calico. 
 
 A fine young man, whose father had been the Casembe 
 before this one, came to see us ; he is in the background now, 
 otherwise he would have conducted us to the village : a son 
 or heir does not succeed to the chieftainship here. 
 
 2lst. "When one Casembe dies, the man who succeeds him 
 invariably removes and builds his pembwe, or court, at 
 another place : when Dr. Lacerda died, the Casembe moved 
 to near the north end of the Mofwe. There have been seven 
 Casembes in all. The word means a general. 
 
 The plain extending from the Lunde to the town of Casembe 
 is level, and studded pretty thickly with red ant-hills, from 
 15 to 20 feet high. Casembe has made a broad path from his 
 town to the Lunde, about a mile and a half long, and as broad 
 as a carriage-path. The chief's residence is enclosed in a wall 
 of reeds, 8 or 9 feet high, and 300 yards square ; the gateway 
 is ornamented with about sixty human skulls; a shed stands 
 in the middle of the road before we come to the gate, with a 
 cannon dressed in gaudy cloths. A number of noisy fellows 
 stopped our party, and demanded tribute for the cannon; 1^ 
 burst through them, and the rest fallowed without giving 
 anything : they were afraid of the English. The town is on 
 the east bank of the Lakelet Mofwe, and one mile from its 
 northern end. Mohamad bin Saleh now met us, his men 
 firing guns of welcome ; he conducted us to his shed of recep-
 
 14:8 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 tion, and then gave us a hut till we could build one of our 
 own. Mohamad is a fine, portly, black Arab, with a pleasant 
 Bmile, and pure white beard, and has been more than ten 
 years in these parts, and lived with four Casembes : he has 
 considerable influence here, and also on Tanganyika. 
 
 An Arab trader, Mohamad Bogarib, who arrived seven 
 days before us with an immense number of slaves, presented 
 a meal of vermicelli, oil, and honey ; also cassava meal cooked 
 so as to resemble a sweet meat. (I had not tasted honey or 
 sugar since we left Lake Nyassa, in September, 1866.) They 
 had coffee, too. 
 
 Neither goats, sheep, nor cattle thrive here, so the people 
 are confined to fowls and fish. Cassava is very extensively 
 cultivated indeed, so generally is this plant grown, that it is 
 impossible to know which is town and which is country: 
 every hut has a plantation around it, in which is grown 
 cassava, Holcus sorghum, maize, beans, nuts. 
 
 Many of Casembe's people appear with the ears cropped 
 and hands lopped off: the present chief has been often guilty 
 of this barbarity. One man has just come to us without ears 
 or hands : he tries to excite our pity, making a chirruping 
 noise by striking his cheeks with the stumps of his hands. 
 
 A dwarf also, one Zofa, with backbone broken, comes about 
 us : he talks with an air of authority, and is present at all 
 public occurrences : the people seem to bear with him. He 
 is a stranger from a tribe in the north, and works in his 
 garden very briskly : his height is 3 feet 9 inches.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 A MONTH WITH CASEMBE. 
 
 "VTOYEMBEK 24ra, 1867. We were called to be presented 
 .LI to Caseinbe in a grand reception. 
 
 The present Casembe has a heavy uninteresting counte- 
 nance, without beard or whiskers, and somewhat of the 
 Chinese type, and his eyes have an outward squint. He 
 smiled but once during the day, and that was pleasant 
 enough, though the cropped ears and lopped hands, with 
 human skulls at the gate, made me indisposed to look on 
 anything with favor. His principal wife came with her 
 attendants, after he had departed, to look at the Englishman 
 (Moengerese). She was a fine, tall, good-featured lady, with 
 two spears in her hand ; the principal men who had come 
 around made way for her, and called on me to salute : I did 
 so ; but she, being forty rods off, I involuntarily beckoned 
 her to come nearer : this upset the gravity of all her attend- 
 ants ; all burst into a laugh, and ran off. 
 
 Casembe's smile was elicited by the dwarf making some 
 uncouth antics before him. His executioner also came 
 forward to look : he had a broad Lunda sword on his arm, 
 and a' curious scissor-like instrument at his neck for propping 
 ears. On saying to him that his was nasty work, he smiled, 
 and so did many who were not sure of their ears a moment : 
 many men of respectability show that at some former time 
 they have been thus punished. Casembe sent us another 
 large basket of fire-dried fish in addition to that sent us at 
 Chungu, two baskets of flour, one of dried cassava, and a pot
 
 150 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 of pombe or beer. Mohamad, who was accustomed to much 
 more liberal Casembes, thinks this one very stingy, having 
 neither generosity or good sense ; but as we cannot consume 
 all he gives, we do not complain. 
 
 272A. Casembe's chief wife passes frequently to her 
 plantation, carried by six, or more commonly by twelve men 
 in a sort of palanquin : she has European features, but light- 
 brown complexion. A number of men run before her, 
 brandishing swords and battle-axes, and one beats a hollow 
 instrument, giving warning to passengers to clear the way : 
 she has two enormous pipes ready filled for smoking. She is 
 very attentive to her agriculture ; cassava is the chief product ; 
 sweet potatoes, maize, sorghum, pennisetum, millet, ground- 
 nuts, cotton. The people seem more savage than any I have 
 yet seen; they strike each other barbarously from mere 
 wantonness, but they are civil enough to me. 
 
 Mohamad bin Sal eh proposes to go to Ujiji next month. 
 He waited when he heard of our coming, in order that we 
 might go together : he has a very low opinion of the present 
 chief. The area which has served for building the chief 
 town at different times, is about ten miles in diameter. 
 
 1st December, 1867. An old man named Perembe is the 
 owner of the land on which Casembe has built. They always 
 keep up the traditional ownership. Munongo is a brother 
 of Perembe, and he owns the country east of the Kalongosi : 
 if any one wished to cultivate land he would apply to these 
 aboriginal chiefs for it. Old Perembe is a sensible man : 
 Mohamad thinks him 150 years old. He is always on the 
 side of liberality and fairness ; he says that the first Casembe 
 was attracted to Mofwe by the abundance of fish in it. -He 
 has the i'dea of all men being derived from a single pair. 
 
 13<^. Set-in rains. A number of fine young girls who 
 live in Casembe's compound came and shook hands in their 
 way, which is to cross the right over to your left, and clasp 
 them ; then give a few claps with both hands, and repeat the 
 crossed clasp : they want to tell their children that they have 
 seen me.
 
 LEAVE CASEMBE'S TOWN. 
 
 . To-day I announced to Casembe our intention of 
 going away. I am always ill when not working ; I spend my 
 time writing letters, to be ready when we come to Ujiji. 
 
 18th. We have been here a month, and I cannot get more 
 than two lunars : I got altitudes of the meridian of stars 
 north and south soon after we came, but not lunars. Cas- 
 embe sent a big basket of fire-dried fish, two pots of beer, 
 and a basket of cassava, and says we may go when we choose. 
 
 19A. On going to say good-bye to Casembe, he tried to 
 be gracious, said that we had eaten but little of his food ; yet 
 he allowed us to go. He sent for a man to escort us ; and 
 on the 22nd we went to Luiide River, crossed it, and went 
 on to sleep at the Chungu, close by the place where Casembe's 
 court stood when Dr. Lacerda came, for the town was moved 
 further west as soon as the Doctor died. There are many 
 palm-oil palms, but no tradition exists of their introduction. 
 
 23rd. We crossed the Chungu. Rain from above, and 
 cold and wet to the waist below, as I do not lift my shirt, 
 because the white skin makes all stare. I saw black monkeys 
 at this spot. Casembe sent three men to guide me to Moero. 
 
 24th. Drizzly rain, and we are in a miserable spot by the 
 Kabusi, in a bed of brakens four feet high. The guides 
 won't stir in this weather. I gave beads to buy what could 
 be got for Christmas. 
 
 25th. Drizzly showers every now and then ; soil, black 
 mud. About ten men came as guides and as a convoy of 
 honor to Mohamad. 
 
 27th. In two hours we crossed Mandapala, now waist 
 deep. This part was well stocked with people five years 
 ago, but Casembe's severity in cropping ears and other 
 mutilations, selling the children for slight offences, etc., 
 made them all flee to neighboring tribes; and now, if he 
 sent all over the country, he could not collect a thousand 
 men. 
 
 [Livingstone refers (on the 15th Dec.) to some writings he 
 was engaged upon, and we find one of them here in his 
 journal which takes the form of a dispatch to Lord Clarendon,
 
 152 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 with a note attached to the effect that it was not copied 
 or sent, as he had no paper for the purpose. It affords an 
 epitomized description of his late travels, and the stay at 
 Casembe, and portions thereof are inserted here in the place 
 of many notes written daily, hut which only repeat the 
 same events and observations in a less readable form]. 
 
 TOWN OP CASEMBE, 10th December, 1867. 
 
 Lat. 9 37 ' 13 // South; long. 28 East. 
 THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE EARL OF CLARENDON. 
 
 MY LORD, The first opportunity I had of sending a letter 
 to the coast occurred in February last, when I was at a 
 village called Molemba (lat. 10 14' S.; long. 31 46' E.), 
 in the country named Lobemba. 
 
 On leaving Lobernba we entered Ulungu, and, as we pro- 
 ceeded northwards, perceived by the barometers and the 
 courses of numerous rivulets, that a decided slope lay in that 
 direction. A friendly old Ulungu chief, named Kasonso, on 
 hearing that I wished to visit Lake Liemba, which lies in his 
 country, gave his son with a large escort to guide me thither ; 
 and on the 2nd April last, we reached the brim of the deep 
 cup-like cavity in which the lake reposes. The descent is 
 2000 feet, and still the surface of the water is upwards of 
 2500 feet above the level of the sea. The sides of the hollow 
 are very steep, and sometimes the rocks run the whole 2000 
 feet sheer down to the water. The scenery is extremely 
 beautiful. The "Aeazy," a stream of 15 yards broad and 
 thigh deep, came down alongside our precipitous path, and 
 formed cascades by leaping 300 feet at a time. These, with 
 the bright red of the clay schists among the greenwood-trees, 
 made the dullest of my attendants pause and remark with 
 wonder. 
 
 We remained six weeks on the shores of the lake, trying 
 to pick up some flesh and strength. A party of Arabs came 
 into Ulungu after us in search of ivory, and hearing that an 
 Englishman had preceded them, naturally inquired where I 
 was. But our friends, the Baulungu, suspecting that mischief 
 was meant, stoutly denied that they had ever seen anything
 
 DISPATCH TO LORD CLARENDON. 153 
 
 of the sort; and then became very urgent that I should 
 go on to one of the inhabited islands for safety. I regret 
 that I suspected them of intending to make me a prisoner 
 there, which they could easily have done by removing the 
 canoes ; but when the villagers who deceived the Arabs told 
 me afterwards with an air of triumph how nicely they had 
 managed, I saw that they had only been anxious for my 
 safety. On three occasions the same friendly disposition 
 was shown ; and when we went round the west side of the 
 lake in order to examine the arm or branch above referred 
 to, the headman at the confluence of the Lofu protested so 
 strongly against my going the Arabs had been fighting, and 
 I might be mistaken for an Arab and killed that I felt half- 
 inclined to believe him. Two Arab slaves entered the village 
 the same afternoon in search of ivory, and confirmed all he 
 had said. We now altered our course, intending to go south 
 about the district disturbed by the Arabs. When we had 
 gone 60 miles we heard that the head-quarters of the Arabs 
 were 22 miles further. They had found ivory very cheap, 
 and pushed on to the west, till attacked by a chief named 
 Nsama, whom they beat in his own stockade. They were 
 now at a loss which way to turn. 
 
 On reaching Chitimba's village I found them about 600 in 
 all ; and, on presenting a letter I had from the Sultan of 
 Zanzibar, was immediately supplied with provisions, beads, 
 and cloth. They approved of my plan of passing to the 
 south of Nsama' s country, but advised waiting till the effects 
 of punishment, which the Baulungu had resolved to inflict 
 on Nsama for breach of public law, were known. It had 
 always been understood that whoever brought goods into the 
 country was to be protected ; and two hours after my arrival 
 at Chitimba's, the son of Kasonso, our guide, marched in 
 with his contingent. It was anticipated that Nsama might 
 flee ; if to the north, he would leave me a free passage through 
 his country ; if to the south, I might be saved from walking 
 into his hands. But it turned out that Nsama was anxious 
 for peace. He had sent two men with elephants' tusks to
 
 154 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 begin a negotiation ; but treachery was suspected, and they 
 were shot down. Another effort was made with ten goats, 
 and repulsed. This was much to the regret of the head 
 Arabs. It was fortunate for me that the Arab goods were 
 not all sold, for Lake Moero lay in Nsama's country, and 
 without peace no ivory could be bought, nor could I reach 
 the lake. 
 
 The peace-making between the people and Arabs was, 
 however, a tedious process, occupying three and a half 
 months drinking each other's blood. This, as I saw it west 
 of this in 1854, is not more horrible than the thirtieth dilu- 
 tion of deadly night-shade or strychnine is in homoeopathy. 
 I thought that had I been an Arab I could easily swallow 
 that, but not the next means of cementing the peace marry- 
 ing a black wife. Nsama's daughter was the bride, and she 
 turned out very pretty. She came riding pickaback on a 
 man's shoulders : this is the most dignified conveyance that 
 chiefs and their families can command. She had ten maids 
 with her, each carrying a basket of provisions, and all having 
 the same beautiful features as .herself. She was taken by the 
 principal Arab, but soon showed that she preferred her 
 father to her husband, for seeing preparations made to send 
 off to purchase ivory, she suspected that her father was to be 
 attacked, and made her escape. 
 
 I then visited Nsama, and, as he objected to many people 
 coming near him, took only three of my eight attendants. 
 His people were very much afraid of fire-arms, and felt all 
 my clothing to see if I had any concealed on my person. 
 Nsama is an old man, with head and face like those sculptured 
 on the Assyrian monuments. He has been a great conqueror 
 in his time, and with bows and arrows was invincible. He 
 is said to have destroyed many native traders from Tangan- 
 yika, but twenty Arab guns made him flee from his own 
 stockade, and caused a great sensation in the country. He 
 was much taken with my hair and woollen clothing ; but his 
 people, heedless of his scolding, so pressed upon us that we 
 amid not converse, and, after promising to send for me to
 
 DESCRIPTIVE RESUME. 155 
 
 talk during the night, our interview ended. He promised 
 guides to Moero, and sent us more provisions than we could 
 carry ; but showed so much distrust, that after all we went 
 without his assistance. 
 
 Nsama's people are particularly handsome. Many of the 
 men have as beautiful heads as one could find in an assembly 
 of Europeans. All have very fine forms, with small hands 
 and feet. The women excited the admiration of the Arabs. 
 They have fine, small, well-formed features: their great 
 defect is one of fashion, which does not extend to the next 
 tribe ; they file their teeth to points, the hussies, and that 
 makes their smile like that of the crocodile. 
 
 The Arabs sent out men in all directions to purchase ivory ; 
 but their victory over Nsama had created a panic among the 
 tribes which no verbal assurances could allay. If Jssama 
 had been routed by twenty Arab guns no one could stand 
 before them but Casembe ; and Casembe had issued strict 
 orders to his people not to allow the Arabs who fought 
 Nsama to enter his country. They did not attempt to force 
 their way, but after sending friendly messages and presents 
 to different chiefs, when these were not cordially received, 
 turned off in some other direction, and at last, despairing of 
 more ivory, turned homewards. From first to last they were 
 extremely kind to me, and showed all due respect to the 
 Sultan's letter. I am glad that I was witness to their mode 
 of trading in ivory and slaves. It formed a complete con- 
 trast to the atrocious dealings of the Kilwa trade'rs, who are 
 supposed to be, but are not, the subjects of the same Sultan. 
 
 Since coming to Casembe's the testimony of natives and 
 Arabs has been so united and consistent, that I am but ten 
 days from Lake Bemba, or Bangweolo, that I cannot doubt 
 its accuracy. I am so tired of exploration without a word 
 from home or anywhere else for two years, that I must go to 
 Ujiji on Tanganyika for letters before doing anything else. 
 The banks and country adjacent to Lake Bangweolo are 
 reported to be now very muddy and very unhealthy. I have 
 no medicine.
 
 156 "LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 The town of Casembe covers a mile square of cassava 
 plantations, the huts being dotted over that space. Some 
 have square enclosures of reeds, but no attempt has been 
 made at arrangement: it might be called a rural village 
 rather than a town. No estimate could be formed by count- 
 ing the huts, they were so irregularly planted, and hidden by 
 cassava ; but my impression from other collections of huts 
 was that the population was under a thousand souls. The 
 court or compound of Casembe some would call it a palace 
 is a square enclosure of 300 yards by 200 yards. It is 
 surrounded by a hedge of high reeds. Inside, where 
 Casembe honored me with a grand reception, stands a gigan- 
 tic hut for Casembe, and a score of small huts for domestics. 
 The Queen's hut stands behind that of the chief, with, a 
 number of small huts also. Most of the enclosed space is 
 covered with a plantation of cassava, Curcus purgaris, and 
 cotton. 
 
 Casembe sat before his hut on a square seat placed on lion 
 and leopard skins. He was clothed in a coarse blue and 
 white Manchester print edged with red baize, and arranged 
 in large folds so as to look like a crinoline put on wrong 
 side foremost. , His arms, legs and head were covered with 
 sleeves, leggings and cap made of various colored beads in 
 neat patterns: a crown of yellow feathers surmounted his 
 cap. Each of his headmen came forward, shaded by a huge, 
 ill-made umbrella, and followed by his dependants, made 
 obeisance to Casembe, and sat down on his right and left : 
 various bands of musicians did the same. When called 
 upon I rose and bowed, and an old counselor, with his ears 
 cropped, gave the chief as full an account as he had been 
 able to gather during our stay of the English in general, 
 and my antecedents in particular. My having passed through 
 Lunda' to the west of Casembe, and visited chiefs of whom 
 he scarcely knew anything, excited most attention. He then 
 assured me that I was welcome to his country, to go where I 
 liked, and do what I chose. We then went (two boys carry- 
 ing his train behind him) to an inner apartment, where the
 
 DESCRIPTIVE RESUME. 157 
 
 articles of my present were exhibited in detail. He had 
 examined them privately before, and we knew that he was 
 satisfied. They consisted of eight yards of orange-colored 
 serge, a large striped tablecloth ; another large cloth made at 
 Manchester, in imitation of West Coast native manufacture, 
 which never fails to excite the admiration of Arabs and 
 natives, and a large richly gilded comb for the back hair, 
 such as ladies wore fifty years ago : this was given to me by 
 a friend at Liverpool, and as Casembe and Nsama's people 
 cultivate the hair into large knobs behind, I was sure that 
 this article would tickle the fancy. Casembe expressed 
 himself pleased, and again bade me welcome. 
 
 I had another interview, and tried to dissuade him from 
 selling his people as slaves. He listened awhile, then broke 
 off into a tirade on the greatness of his country, his power 
 and dominion, which Mohamad bin Saleh, who has been 
 here for ten years, turned into ridicule, and made the 
 audience laugh by telling how other Lunda chiefs had given 
 me oxen and sheep, while Casembe had only a poor little 
 goat and some fish to bestow. He insisted also that there 
 were but two sovereigns in the world, the Sultan of Zanzi- 
 bar and Victoria. When we went on a third occasion to bid 
 Casembe farewell, he was much less distant, and gave me 
 the impression that 1 could soon become friends with him ; 
 but he has an ungainly look, and an outward squint in each 
 eye. A number of human skulls adorned the entrance to 
 his courtyard ; and great numbers of his principal men 
 having their ears cropped, and some with their hands lopped 
 off, showed his barbarous way of making his ministers 
 attentive and honest. I could not avoid indulging a 
 prejudice against him. 
 
 The different Casembes visited by the Portuguese seem to 
 have varied much in character and otherwise. Pereira, the 
 first visitor, said (I quote from memory) that Casembe had 
 20,000 trained soldiers, watered his streets daily, and sacri- 
 ficed twenty human victims every day. I could hear nothing 
 of human sacrifices now, and it is questionable if the present
 
 158 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Caserabe could bring a thousand stragglers into the field. 
 When he usurped power five years ago, his country was 
 densely peopled ; but he was so severe in his punishments- 
 cropping the ears, lopping off the hands, and other mutila- 
 tions, selling the children for very slight offences, that his 
 subjects gradually dispersed themselves in the neighboring 
 countries beyond his power. This is the common mode by 
 which tyranny is cured in parts like these, where fugitives 
 are never returned. The present Casembe is very poor. 
 "When he had people who killed elephants he was too stingy 
 to share the profits of the sale of the ivory with his sub- 
 ordinates. The elephant hunters have either left him or 
 neglect hunting, so he has now no tusks to sell to the Arab 
 traders who come from Tanganyika. 
 
 I send no sketch of the country, because I have not yet 
 passed over a sufficient surface to give a connected view of 
 the whole watershed of this region, and I regret that I can- 
 not recommend any of the published maps I have seen as 
 giving even a tolerable idea of the country. One bold con- 
 structor of maps has tacked on 200 miles to the north-west 
 end of Lake Nyassa, a feat which no traveler has ever ven- 
 tured to imitate. Another has placed a river in the same 
 quarter running 3000 to 4000 feet up hill, and named it the 
 "NEW ZAMBESI," because I suppose the old Zambesi runs 
 down hill. I have walked over both these mental abortions, 
 and did not know that I was walking on water till I saw 
 them in the maps. 
 
 [The dispatch breaks off at this point. The year con- 
 cludes with health impaired. As time goes on we shall see 
 how ominous the conviction was which made him dread the 
 swamps of Bangweolo.] 
 
 28A-31*. "We came on to the rivulet Chirongo, and then 
 to the Kabukwa, where I was taken ill. Heavy rains kept 
 the convoy back. I have had nothing but coarsely-ground 
 sorghum meal for some time back, and am weak ; I used to 
 be the first in the line of march, and am now the last ; Mo- 
 hamad presented a meal of finely-ground porridge and a fowl,
 
 FURTHER EXPLORATIONS OF LAKE MOERO. 159 
 
 and I immediately felt the difference, though I was not 
 grumbling at my coarse dishes. It is well that I did not go 
 to Bangweolo Lake, for it is now very unhealthy to the 
 natives, and I fear that without medicine continual wettings 
 by fording rivulets might have knocked me up altogether. 
 
 1st January, 1868. Almighty Father, forgive the sins of 
 the past year for Thy Son's sake. Help me to be more 
 profitable during this year. If I am to die this year prepare 
 me for it. 
 
 * # * . * # * * 
 
 My guide to Moero came to-day, and I visited the lake 
 several times, so as to get a good idea of its size. The first 
 fifteen miles in the north are from twelve or more to thirty- 
 three miles broad. The great mass of the Rua Mountains 
 confines it. 
 
 Our course was slow, caused partly by rains, and partly by 
 waiting for the convoy. The people at Kalongosi were 
 afraid to ferry us or any of his people in the convoy out of 
 Casembe's country ; but at last we gave a good fee, and their 
 scruples yielded : they were influenced also by seeing other 
 villagers ready to undertake the job ; the latter nearly fought 
 over us on seeing that their neighbors got all the fare. We 
 then came along the lake, and close to its shores. 
 
 \Zth. Sunday at Karembwe's village. "We went yester- 
 day to the shore, and by protraction Rua point was distant 
 thirty-three miles. Karembwe sent for us, to have an audi- 
 ence ; he is a ]arge man with a gruff voice, but liked by his 
 people and by strangers. I gave him a cloth, and he gave me 
 a goat. The enthusiasm with which I held on to visit Moero 
 had communicated itself to Tipo Tipo and Syde bin Alle, for 
 they followed me up to this place to see the lake, and re- 
 mained five days while we were at Casembe's. 
 
 14th. Leaving the lake, and going north, we soon got on 
 to a plain flooded by the Luao. We had to wade through 
 very adhesive black mud, generally ankle deep, and having 
 many holes in it much deeper : we had four hours of this, 
 and then came to the ford of the Luao itself. We waded up
 
 160 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 a branch of it waist deep for at least a quarter of a mile, then 
 crossed a narrow part by means of a rude bridge of branches 
 and trees, of about forty yards width. 
 
 16th. After sleeping" near the Luao we went on towards 
 Kabwabwata, the village in which Mohamad's son lives. In 
 many of the villages the people shut their stockades as soon as 
 we appear, and stand bows and arrows in hand till we have 
 passed : the reason seems to be that the slaves when out of 
 sight of their masters carry things with a high hand, demand- 
 ing food and other things as if they had power and au- 
 thority. One slave stole two tobacco pipes yesterday in 
 passing through a village; the villagers complained to me 
 when I came up, and I waited till Mohamad came and told 
 him ; we then went forward, the men keeping close to me 
 till we got the slave and the pipes. They stole cassava as 
 we went along, but this could scarcely be prevented. They 
 laid hold of a plant an inch-and-a-half thick, and tore it out 
 of the soft soil with its five or six roots as large as our largest 
 carrots, stowed the roots away in their loads, and went on 
 eating them ; but the stalk thrown among those still growing 
 shows the theft. The raw roots are agreeable and nutritious. 
 No great harm is done by this, for the gardens are so large, 
 but it inspires distrust in the inhabitants, and makes it danger- 
 ous for Arabs to travel not fully manned and armed. 
 
 On reaching the village Kabwabwata a great demonstra- 
 tion was made by Mohamad's Arab dependants and Wan- 
 yam wesi : the women had their faces all smeared with pipe- 
 clay, and lullilooed with all their might. When we came 
 among the huts, they cast handfuls of soil on their heads, 
 while the men fired off their guns as fast as they could load 
 them. Those connected with Mohamad ran and kissed his 
 hands, and fired, till the sound of shouting, lullilooing, 
 clapping of hands, and shooting was deafening : Mohamad 
 was quite overcome by this demonstration, and it was long 
 before he could still them. 
 
 ITtfA. Mohamad is anxious to stay a little while with his 
 son, for it is a wet season, and the mud is disagreeable
 
 STONE UNDERGROUND DWELLINGS. 
 
 to travel all over; it is said to be worse near Ujiji: he 
 cooks small delicacies for me with the little he has, and tries 
 to make me comfortable. Yinegar is made from bananas, 
 and oil from ground-nuts. I am anxious to be off, but 
 chiefly to get news. 
 
 I find that many Unyamwesi people are waiting here, on 
 account of the great quantity of rainwater in front: it would 
 be difficult, they say, to get canoes on Tanganyika, as the 
 waves are now large. 
 
 24:th. Two of Mohamad Bogharib's people came from 
 Casembe's to trade here, and a body of Syde bin Habib's 
 people also from Garaganza, near Kaze; they report the 
 flooded lands on this side of Lake Tanganyika as waist and 
 chest deep. Bin Habib, being at Katanga, will not stir till 
 the rains are over, and I fear we are storm-stayed till then too. 
 
 26/i-27tfA. I am ill with fever, as I always am when 
 stationary. 
 
 28th. Better, and thankful to Him of the Greatest Name. 
 "We must remain ; it is a dry spot, and favorable for ground- 
 nuts. Hooping-cough here. 
 
 30A. Stone underground houses are reported in Rua, but 
 whether natural or artificial Mohamad could not say. If 
 a present is made to the Rua chiefs they never obstruct 
 passengers. 
 
 1th to 21s February, 1868. On inquiring of men who 
 have seen the underground houses in Rua, I find that they 
 are very extensive, ranging along mountain sides for twenty 
 miles, and in one part a rivulet flows inside. In some cases 
 the doorways are level with the country adjacent : in others, 
 ladders are used to climb up to them ; inside they are said 
 to be very large, and not the work of men, but of God. The 
 people have plenty of fowls, and they too obtain shelter in 
 these Troglodyte habitations. 
 
 23rd. I was visited by an important chief called Chape, 
 who said that he wanted to make friends with the English. 
 He did not beg anything, and promised to send me a goat.
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 EABWABWATA AND THE EUA MOUNTAINS. 
 
 T1EBKUAKY 24xH, 1868. Some slaves who came with 
 JL Mohamad Bogharib's agent, abused my men this morn- 
 ing, as bringing unclean meat into the village to sell, though 
 it had been killed by a man of the Wanyamwesi. They 
 called out, "Kaffir, Kaffir!" and Susi, roused by this, 
 launched forth with a stick ; the others joined in the row, 
 and the offenders were beaten off, but they went and collected 
 all their number and renewed the assault. One threw a 
 heavy block of wood and struck Simon on the head, making 
 him quite insensible and convulsed for some time. He has 
 three wounds on the head which may prove serious. This is 
 the first outburst of Mohamadan bigotry we have met, and 
 by those who know so little of the creed that it is question- 
 able if one of them can repeat the formula : " La illaha ilia 
 lahu Mohamad Rasulela salla lahu, a leihi oa Salama." Simon 
 recovered, but Gallahs are in general not strong. 
 
 %5th. Mohamad called on me this morning to apologize 
 for the outrage of yesterday; but no one was to blame except 
 the slaves, and I wanted no punishment inflicted if they were 
 cautioned for the future. It seems plain that if they do not 
 wish to buy the unclean meat they can let it alone, no harm 
 is done. The Wanyamwesi kill for all, and some Mohama- 
 dans say that they won't eat of it, but their wives and people 
 do eat it privately. 
 
 I asked Mohamad bin Saleh to-day if it were true that he 
 was a prisoner at Casembe's. He replied, "Quite so." Some 
 Garaganza people, now at Katanga, fought with Casembe,
 
 MOHAMAD'S STORY OF HIS CAPTIVITY. 163 
 
 and Mohamad was suspected of being connected with them. 
 Casembe attacked his people, and during the turmoil a 
 hundred frasilahs of copper were stolen from him, and many 
 of his people killed. Casembe kept him a prisoner till sixty 
 of his people were either killed or died, among these 
 Mohamad's eldest son : he was thus reduced to poverty. He 
 gave something to Casembe to allow him to depart, and I 
 suspect that my Sultan's letter had considerable influence in 
 inducing Casembe to accede to his request, for he repeated 
 again and again in my hearing that he must pay respect to 
 my letter, and see me safe at least as far as Ujiji. Mohamad 
 says that he will not return to Casembe again, but will begin 
 to trade with some other chief: it is rather hard for a man 
 at his age to begin de novo. He is respected among the 
 Arabs, who pronounce him to be a good man. He says that 
 he has been twenty-two years in Africa, and never saw an 
 outburst like that of yesterday among the Wanyamwesi : it 
 is, however, common for the people of Ujiji to drink palm 
 toddy, and then have a general row in the bazaar, but no bad 
 feeling exists next day. 
 
 If a child cuts the upper front teeth before the lower, it is 
 killed, as unlucky: this is a widely-spread superstition. 
 When I was amongst the Makololo in 1859 one of Sekeletu's 
 wives would not allow her servant's child to be killed for 
 this, but few would have the courage to act in opposition to 
 public feeling as she did. In Casembe's country if a child 
 is seen to turn from one side to the other in sleep it is 
 killed. They say of any child who has what they consider 
 these defects " he is an Arab child," because the Arabs have 
 none of this class of superstitions, and should any Arab be 
 near they give the child to him : it would bring ill-luck, 
 misfortunes, " milando," or guilt, to the family. 
 
 If Casembe dreams of any man twice or three times he 
 puts the man to death, as one who is practicing secret arts 
 against his life : if any one is pounding or cooking food for 
 him he must preserve the strictest silence ; these and other 
 things show extreme superstition and degradation. 
 I
 
 164 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 During his enforced detention Mohamad's friends advised 
 him to leave Casembe by force, offering to aid him with their 
 men, but he always refused. His father was the first to 
 open this country to trade with the Arabs, and all his 
 expenses while so doing were borne by himself ; but Mohamad 
 seems to be a man of peace, and unwilling to break the 
 appearance of friendship with the chiefs. He thinks that 
 this Caseinbe poisoned his predecessor : he certainly killed 
 his wife's mother, a queen, that she might be no obstacle to 
 him in securing her. daughter. 
 
 No better authority for what has been done or left undone 
 by Mohamadans in this country can be found than Mohamad 
 bin Saleh, for he is very intelligent, and takes an interest in 
 all that happens, and his father was equally interested in this 
 country's affairs. He declares that no attempt was ever 
 made by Mohamadans to proselytize the Africans : they teach 
 their own children to read the Koran, but them only : it is 
 never translated, and to servants who go to the Mosque it is 
 all dumb show. Some servants imbibe Mohamadan bigotry 
 about eating, but they offer no prayers. Circumcision, to 
 make halel, or fit to slaughter the animals for their master, 
 is the utmost advance any have made. 
 
 As they never translate the Koran, they neglect the best 
 means of influencing the Africans, who invariably wish to 
 understand what they are about. When we were teaching 
 adults the alphabet, they felt it a hard task. " Give me 
 medicine, I shall drink it to make me understand it," was 
 their earnest entreaty. When they have advanced so far as 
 to form clear conceptions of Old Testament and Gospel his- 
 tories, they tell them to their neighbors; and, on visiting 
 distant tribes, feel proud to show how much they know : in 
 this way the knowledge of Christianity becomes widely dif- 
 fused. Those whose hatred to its self-denying doctrines has 
 become developed by knowledge, propagate slanders; but 
 still they speak of Christianity, and awaken attention. The 
 plan, therefore, of the Christian missionary in imparting 
 knowledge is immeasurably superior to that of the Moslem
 
 EXTREMES MEET IN SUPERSTITIONS. 165 
 
 in dealing with dumb show. I have, however, been aston- 
 ished to see that none of the Africans imitate the Arab 
 prayers : considering their great reverence of the Deity, it is 
 a wonder that they do not learn to address prayers to Him 
 except on very extraordinary occasions. 
 
 Some believe that Kilimanjaro Mountain has mummies, as 
 in Egypt, and that Moses visited it of old. 
 
 The people at Katanga are afraid to dig for gold in their 
 country because they believe that it has been hidden 
 where it is by " Ngolu," who is the owner of it. The Arabs 
 translate Ngolu by Satan : it means Mezimo, or departed 
 spirits, too. The people are all oppressed by their super- 
 stitions; the fear of death is remarkably strong. The 
 "Wagtails are never molested, because, if they were killed, 
 death would visit the village ; this too is the case with the 
 small Whydah birds, the fear of death in the minds of the 
 people saves them from molestation. But why should we 
 be so prone to criticise ? A remnant of our own superstitions 
 is seen in the prejudice against sitting down thirteen to 
 dinner, spilling the salt, and not throwing a little of it over 
 the left shoulder. Ferdinand I., the King of Naples, in 
 passing through the streets, perpetually put one hand into 
 his pockets to cross the thumb over the finger in order to 
 avert the influence of the evil eye ! 
 
 On the 6th of March, Muabo, the great chief of these 
 parts, came to call on Mohamad : several men got up and 
 made some antics before him, then knelt down and did 
 obeisance, then Muabo himself jumped about a little, and all 
 applauded. He is a good-natured-looking man, fond of a 
 joke, and always ready with a good-humored smile : he was 
 praised very highly, Mpweto was nothing to Muabo mokolu, 
 the great Muabo; and he returned the praise by lauding 
 Tipo Tipo and Mpamari, Mohamad's native name, which 
 means, " Give me wealth, or goods." Mohamad made a few 
 of the ungainly antics, like the natives, and all were highly 
 pleased, and went ofi. rejoicing. 
 
 Some Arabs believe that a serpent on one of the islands
 
 166 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 in the Nyanza Lake has the power of speaking, and is the 
 same that beguiled Eve. It is a crime at U jiji to kill a 
 serpent, even though it enters a house and kills a kid ! 
 
 There are underground stone houses in Kabiure, in the 
 range called Kakoma, which is near to our place of detention. 
 
 16^/i March. We started for Mpweto's village, which is 
 situated on the Lualaba. 
 
 Next day we ascended the Rua Mountains, and reached 
 the village of Mpweto, situated in a valley between two 
 ridges, about one mile from the right bank of the Lualaba, 
 where it comes through the mountains. 
 
 18^/i. On reaching Mpweto's yesterday, we were taken up 
 to the house of Syde bin Habib, which is built on a ridge 
 overhanging the chief's village, a square building of wattle 
 and plaster, and a mud roof to prevent it being fired by an 
 enemy. It is a very pretty spot among the mountains. 
 Sariama is Bin Habib's agent, and he gave us a basket of 
 flour and leg of kid. I sent a message to Mpweto, which he 
 politely answered by saying that he had no food ready in 
 his village, but if we waited two days he would have some 
 prepared, and would then see us. He knew what we should 
 give him, and he need not tell us. I met a man from Ses- 
 keke, left sick at Kirwa by Bin Habib and now with him 
 here. 
 
 A very beautiful young woman came to look at us, perfect 
 in every way, and nearly naked, but unconscious of inde- 
 cency ; a very Venus in black. The light-gray, red-tailed 
 parrot seen on the West Coast is common in Rua, and tamed 
 by the natives. 
 
 19^A. * (Grant, Lord, grace to love Thee more and serve 
 Thee better.) 
 
 The favorite son of Mpweto called on us ; his father is 
 said to do nothing without consulting him ; but he did not 
 seem to be endowed with much wisdom. 
 
 20^/i 21st. Our interview was put off; and then a sight 
 
 * The Doctor's birthday
 
 A SUSPICIOUS CHIEF. 
 
 of the cloth we were to give was required. I sent a good 
 large cloth, and explained that we were nearly out of goods 
 now, having been traveling two years, and were going to 
 Ujiji to get more. Mpweto had prepared a quantity of 
 pombe, a basket of meal, and a goat ; and when he looked 
 at them and the cloth, he seemed to feel that it would be a 
 poor bargain ; so he sent to say we had gone to Casembe and 
 given him many cloths, and then to Muabo, and if 1 did not 
 give another cloth he would not see me. " He had never 
 slept with only one cloth." " I had put medicine on this 
 one to kill him, and must go away." 
 
 It seems he was offended because we went to his great 
 rival, Muabo, before visiting him. He would not see Syde 
 bin Habib f or eight days; and during that time was using 
 charms to try if it would be safe to see him at all ; on the 
 ninth day he peeped past a door for some time to see if Bin 
 Habib were a proper person, and then came out: he is 
 always very suspicious. 
 
 At last he sent an order to us to go away, and if we did 
 not move, he would corne with all his people and drive us 
 off. Sariama said if he were not afraid for Syde bin Habib's 
 goods, he would make a stand against Mpweto; but I had 
 no wish to stay or to quarrel with a worthless chief, and 
 resolved to go next day. 
 
 24A. He abused a native trader with his tongue for 
 coming to trade, and sent him away too. We slept again at 
 our half-way village, Kapemba, just as a party of salt-traders 
 from Rua came into it: they were tall, well : made men, and 
 rather dark. 
 
 25/t. Reached Kabwabwata at noon, and were welcomed 
 by Mohamad and all the people. His son, Sheikh But, 
 accompanied us ; but Mohamad told us previously that it was 
 likely Mpweto would refuse to see us. 
 
 The water is reported to be so deep in front that it is 
 impossible to go north: the "Wanyarnwesi, who are detained 
 here as well as we, say that it is often more than a man's 
 depth, and there are no canoes. They would not stop here
 
 168 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 if a passage home could be made. I am thinking of going to 
 Lake Bemba, because at least two months must be passed 
 here still before a passage can be made ; but my goods are 
 getting done, and I cannot give presents to the chiefs on 
 our way. 
 
 2nd April, 1868. If I am not deceived by the information 
 I have received from various reliable sources, the springs of 
 the Nile rise between 9 and 10 south latitude, or at least 
 400 to 500 miles south of the south end of Speke's Lake, 
 which he considered to be the sources of the Nile. 
 
 \\th. I had a long oration from Mohamad yesterday 
 against going off to Bemba to-morrow. His great argument 
 is the extortionate way of Casembe, who would demand cloth, 
 and say that in pretending to go to Ujiji I had told him lies : 
 he adds to this argument that this is the last month of the 
 rains ; the Masika has begun, and our way north will soon 
 be open. The fact of the matter is that Mohamad, by not 
 telling me of the superabundance of water in the country of 
 Marungu, which occurs every year, caused me to lose five 
 months. He knew that we should be detained here, but he 
 was so eager to get out of his state of durance with Casembe, 
 that he hastened my departure by asserting that we should 
 be at Ujiji in one month. I regret this deception, but it is 
 not to be wondered at, and in a Mohamadan and in a Christian 
 too it is thought clever. "Were my goods not nearly done I 
 would go, and risk the displeasure of Casembe for the chance 
 of discovering the Lake Bemba. I fear that I must give up 
 this lake for the present. 
 
 12tfA. I think of starting to-morrow for Bangweolo, even 
 if Casembe refuses a passage beyond him : we shall be better 
 there than we are here, for everything at Kabwabwata is 
 scarce and dear. There we can get a fowl for one string of 
 beads, here it costs six : there fish may be bought, here none. 
 Three of Casembe's principal men are here, Kakwata, 
 Charley, and Kapitenga; they are anxious to go home, and 
 would be a gain to me, but Mohamad detains them, and 
 when I ask his reason he says " Muabo refuses," but they
 
 MEN TIRED OF EXPLORING. 169 
 
 point to Mohamad's house and say, "It is he who refuses." 
 ~L3th. On preparing to start this morning my people 
 refused to go : the fact is, they are all tired, and Mohamad's 
 opposition encourages them. Mohamad, who was evidently 
 eager to make capital out of their refusal, asked me to 
 remain over to-day, and then demanded what I was going 
 to do with those who had absconded. I said, " Nothing : if 
 a magistrate were on the spot, I would give them over to 
 him." " Oh," said he, " I am magistrate, shall I apprehend 
 them?" To this I assented. He repeated this question till 
 it was tiresome : I saw his reason long afterwards, when he 
 asserted that I " came to him and asked him to bind them, 
 but he had refused : " he wanted to appear to the people as 
 much better than I am. 
 
 ~L4:th. I start off with five attendants, leaving most of the 
 luggage with Mohamad, and reach the Luao to spend the 
 night. Headman Ndowa. 
 
 15tfA. Amoda ran away early this morning. " "Wishes to 
 stop with his brothers." They think that, by refusing to 
 go to Bemba, they will force me to remain with them, 
 and then go to Ujiji : one of them has infused the idea into 
 their minds that I will not pay them, and exclaims " Look at 
 the sepoys ! " not knowing that they are paid by the Indian 
 Government. I sent Amoda's bundle back to Mohamad : 
 my messenger got to Kabwabwata before Amoda did, and 
 he presented himself to my Arab friend, who of course 
 scolded him : he replied that he was tired of carrying, and 
 no other fault had he ; I may add that I found out that 
 Amoda wished to come south to me with one of Mohamad 
 Bogharib's men, but "Mpamari" told him not to return. 
 Now that I was fairly started, I told my messenger to say to 
 Mohamad that I would on no account go to Ujiji, till I had 
 done all in my power to reach the lake I sought : I would 
 even prefer waiting at Luao or Moero, till people came to 
 me from Ujiji to supplant the runaways. I did not blame 
 them very severely in my own mind for absconding : they 
 were tired of tramping, and so verily am I ; but Mohamad, in
 
 170 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 encouraging them to escape to him, and talking with a 
 double tongue, cannot be exonerated from blame. Little 
 else can be expected from him ; he has lived some thirty-five 
 years in the country, twenty-five being at Casembe's, and 
 there he had often to live by his wits. Consciousness of . my 
 own defects makes me lenient. 
 
 16th. Ndowa gives Mita or Mpamankanana as the names 
 of the excavations in Muabo's hills ; he says that they are 
 sufficient to conceal all the people of this district in case of 
 war : I conjecture that this implies room for ten thousand 
 people : provisions are stored in them, and a perennial rivulet 
 runs along a whole street of them. On one occasion, when 
 the main entrance was besieged by an enemy, some one who 
 knew all the intricacies of the excavations led a party out by 
 a secret passage, and they, coming over the invaders, drove 
 them off with heavy loss. Their formation is universally 
 ascribed to the Deity. This may mean that the present 
 inhabitants have succeeded the original burrowing race, 
 which dug out many caves adjacent to Mount Hor the 
 Jebel Nebi Ifarin, Mount of the Prophet Aaron, of the 
 Arabs and many others ; and even the Bushman caves, a 
 thousand miles south of this region. 
 
 \*Wi. Crossed the Luano by a bridge, thirty yards long, 
 and more than half a mile of flood on each side ; passed many 
 villages, standing on little heights, which overlook plains 
 filled with water. Some three miles of grassy plains abreast 
 of Moero were the deepest parts, except the banks of Luano. 
 "We had four hours of wading, the bottom being generally 
 black tenacious mud. Huts had been formed in the paths by 
 the feet of passengers : these were filled with soft mud, and, 
 as they could not be seen, the foot was often placed on the 
 edge, and when the weight came on it, down it slumped into 
 the mud, half-way up the calves ; it was difficult to draw it 
 out, and very fatiguing. To avoid these ruts we encroached 
 on the grass at the sides of the paths, but often stepping on 
 the unseen edge of a rut, we floundered in with both feet to 
 keep the balance, and this was usually followed by a rush of
 
 ON THE SHORES OF MOERO. 
 
 bubbles to the surface, which, bursting, discharged foul air 
 of frightful faecal odor. In parts, the black mud and foul 
 water were cold, in others hot, according as circulation went 
 on or not. When we came near Moero, the water became 
 half -chest and whole-chest deep ; all perishable articles had to 
 be put on the head. "We found a party of fishermen on the 
 sands, and I got a hut, a bath in the clear but tepid waters, 
 and a delicious change of dress. 
 
 18A. We marched along the north end of Moero, which 
 has a south-east direction. Finding a deserted fisherman's 
 village near the eastern hills, we gladly made it our quarters 
 for Sunday (19rfA). 
 
 21st. Crossed the Yuna and went on to Kalembwe's 
 village, meeting the chief at the gate, who guided us to a 
 hut, and manifested great curiosity to see all our things ; he 
 asked if we could not stop next day and drink beer, which 
 would then be ready. Leopards abound here. The lake now 
 seems broader than ever. 
 
 I could not conceive that a hole in the cartilage of the nose 
 could be turned to any account except to hold an ornament, 
 though that is usually only a bit of grass ; but a man sewing 
 the feathers on his arrows used his nose-hole for holding a 
 needle ! In coming on to Kangalola we found the country 
 swimming : I got separated from the company, though I saw 
 them disappear in the long grass not a hundred yards off and 
 shouted, but the splashing of their feet prevented any one 
 hearing. I could not find a path going south, so I took one 
 to the east to a village ; the grass was so long and tangled, I 
 could scarcely get along; at last I engaged a man to show me 
 the main path south, and he took me to a neat village of a 
 woman Nyinakasanga and would go no further. " Mother 
 Kasanga," as the name means, had been very handsome, and 
 had a beautiful daughter, probably another edition of her- 
 self; she advised my waiting in the deep shade of the Ficus 
 indica, in which her houses were placed. I fired a gun, and 
 when my attendants came, gave her a string of beads which 
 made her express distress at my " leaving without drinking
 
 172 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 anything of hers." People have abandoned several villages 
 on account of the great abundance of ferocious wild beasts. 
 
 %Zrd. Through very thick tangled grass to Chikosi's 
 burned village ; Nsama had killed him. We spent the night 
 in a garden hut, which the fire of the village had spared. 
 Turnips are growing in the ruins. The Nyassi, or long 
 coarse grass, hangs over the paths, and in pushing it aside 
 the sharp seeds penetrate the clothes and are very annoying. 
 The grass itself rubs on the face and eyes disagreeably ; when 
 it is burned off and greensward covers the soil it is much 
 more pleasant walking. 
 
 24A. We leave Chikosi's ruins and make for the ford of 
 the Kalungosi. Marigolds are in full bloom all over the 
 forest, and so are foxgloves. The river is here fully 100 
 yards broad with 300 yards of flood on its western bank ; so 
 deep we had to remain in the canoes till within 50 yards of 
 the higher ground. The headman of the village to which we 
 went was out cutting wood for a garden, and his wife refused 
 us a hut ; but when Kansabala came in the evening he scolded 
 his own spouse roundly and all the wives of the village, and 
 then pressed me to come indoors, but I was well enough in 
 my mosquito curtain without, and declined : I was free from 
 insects and vermin, and few huts are so. 
 
 25rfA. Off early west, and then on to an elevated forest 
 land, in which our course was S.S/W. to the great bend of 
 the rivulet Kifurwa. 
 
 26tfA. Here we spent Sunday in our former wood-cutters' 
 huts. Yesterday we were met by a party of the same occu- 
 pation, laden with bark-cloth, which they had just been 
 stripping off the trees. Their leader would not come along 
 the path because I was sitting near it : I invited him to do 
 so, but it would have been disrespectful to let his shadow fall 
 on any part of my person, so he went on a little out of the 
 way : this politeness is common. 
 
 27A. But a short march to Fungafunga's village. Fun- 
 gafunga's wife gave a handsome supper to the stranger : on 
 afterwards acknowledging it to her husband he said, " That
 
 VISIT A WOMAN'S VILLAGE. 173 
 
 is your village ; always go that way and eat my provisions." 
 He is a Monyamwezi trading in the country for copper, hoes, 
 and slaves. Parrots are here in numbers stealing Holcus 
 sorghum in spite of the shouts of the women. 
 
 29tfA. At the Mandapala Biver. Some men here from the 
 Chungu, one of whom claimed to be a relative of Casembe, 
 made a great outcry against our coming a second time to 
 Casembe without waiting at the Kalungosi for permission. 
 One of them, with his ears cropped short off, asked me when 
 I was departing north if I should come again. I replied, 
 " Yes, I think I shall." They excited themselves by calling 
 over the same thing again and again. " The English come 
 the second time ! " " The second time the second time 
 the country spoiled ! Why not wait at the Kalungosi ? Let 
 him return thither." " Come from Mpamari too, and from 
 the Bagaraganza or Banyamwezi ! ! " " The second time 
 the second time ! " Then all the adjacent villagers were 
 called in to settle this serious affair. I look up to that higher 
 Power to influence their minds as He has often done before. 
 I persuaded them to refer the matter to Casembe himself by 
 sending a man with one of mine up to the town. They 
 would not consent to go on to the Chungu, as the old cropped- 
 eared man would have been obliged to come back the 
 distance again, he having been on the way to the Kalungosi 
 as a sentinel of the ford. Casembe is reasonable and fair, 
 but his people are neither, and will do anything to mulct 
 either strangers or their own countrymen. 
 
 1st May, 1868. I sent a request to Mohamad Bogharib 
 to intercede with Casembe for me for a man to show the way 
 to Chikumbi, who is near to Bangweolo. 
 
 3rd. Abraham, my messenger, came back, while we were 
 at afternoon prayers, with good news for us, but what made 
 Cropped-ears quite chopfallen was that Casembe was quite 
 gracious ! He did not wish me to go away, and now I am 
 welcome back ; and as soon as we hear of peace at Chikumbi's 
 we shall have a man to conduct us thither. The Mazitu 
 were reported to have made an inroad into Chikumbi's
 
 174 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 country ; and it was said that chief had fled, and Casembe 
 had sent messengers to hear the truth. Thanks to the Most 
 High for His kindness and influence. 
 
 O 
 
 4th. We leave the Mandapala. Cropped-ears, whose name 
 I never heard, collapsed at once on hearing the message of 
 Casembe : before that I never heard such a babbler ; to every- 
 one passing, man or woman, he repeated the same insinua- 
 tions about the English, and "Mpamari," and the Banyam- 
 wezi, conspiracy guilt return a second time, till, like a 
 meddling lawyer, he thought that he had really got an 
 important case in hand. 
 
 On reaching Casembe's, on the Mofwe, we found Mohamad 
 Bogharib digging and fencing up a well to prevent his slaves 
 being taken away by the crocodiles, as three had been eaten 
 already. A dog bit the leg of one of my goats so badly that 
 I was obliged to kill it : they are nasty curs here, without 
 courage, and yet they sometimes bite people badly. I met 
 some old friends, and Mohamad Bogharib cooked a supper, 
 and from this time forward never omitted sharing his victuals 
 with me. 
 
 6th. Manoel Caetano Pereira visited Casembe in 1796, or 
 seventy-two years ago : his native name was Moendo-mondo, 
 or the world's leg "world-wide traveler!" He came to 
 Mandapala, for there the Casembe of the time resided, and 
 he had a priest or " Kasise " with him, and many people with 
 guns. Perembe, the oldest man now in Lunda, had children 
 even then: if Perembe were thirty years of age at that 
 period he would now be 102 years old, and he seems quite 
 that, for when Dr. Lacerda came he had forty children. He 
 says that Pereira fired off all his guns on his arrival, and 
 Casembe asking him what he meant by that, he replied, 
 " These guns ask for slaves and ivory," both of which were 
 liberally given. 
 
 When Major Monteiro was here, the town of Casembe was 
 on the same spot as now. A number of men were sent with 
 Monteiro as an honorary escort. Kapika, an old man now 
 living, was the chief or one of the chiefs of this party, and
 
 AN AUDIENCE WITH CASEMBE. 175 
 
 he says that he went to Tette, Senna and Quillimane with 
 Monteiro. 
 
 Muonga, the present Casembe, has good sense, and is very 
 fair in his judgments, but stingy towards his own people as 
 well as strangers : nevertheless I have had good reason to be 
 satisfied with his conduct to me. Muonga is said by the 
 others to be a slave " born out of the house," that is, his 
 mother was not of the royal line ; she is an ugly old woman, 
 and greedy. I got rid of her begging by giving her the beads 
 she sought, and requesting her to cook some food for me ; 
 she begged no more, afraid that I would press my claim for 
 provisions ! 
 
 I0t/i. I sent to Casembe for a guide to Luapula ; he replied 
 that he had not seen me nor given me any food ; I must come 
 to-morrow : but next day he was occupied in killing a man 
 for witchcraft and could not receive us, but said that he 
 would on the 12th. I have taken lunars several times, meas- 
 uring both sides of the moon about 190 times, but a silly 
 map-maker may alter the whole for the most idiotic of 
 reasons. 
 
 We did not get an audience from Casembe ; the fault lay 
 with Kapika Monteiro's escort being afraid to annoy 
 Casembe by putting him in mind of it, but on the 15th 
 Casembe sent for me, and told me that as the people had all 
 fled from Chikumbi's, he would therefore send guides to take 
 us to Kabaia, where there was still a population ; he wished 
 me to wait a few days till he had looked out good men as 
 guides, and ground some flour for us to use in the journey. 
 He understood that I wished to go to Bangweolo ; and it 
 was all right to do what my c ;vn chief had sent me for, and 
 then come back to him. It was only water the same as 
 Luapula, Mofwe, and Moero; nothing to be seen. His 
 people must not molest me again, but let me go where I 
 liked. This made me thank Him who has the hearts of all 
 in His hand. 
 
 Casembe also admitted that he had injured " Mpamari," 
 but he would send him some slaves and ivory in reparation :
 
 176 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 he is better than his people, who are excessively litigious, 
 and fond of milandos or causes suits. He asked if I had 
 not the leopard's skin he gave me to sit on, as it was bad to 
 sit on the ground ; I told him it had so many holes in it 
 people laughed at it and made me ashamed, but he did not 
 take the hint to give me another. He always talks good 
 sense when he has not swilled beer or pombe : all the Arabs 
 are loud in his praises, but they have a bad opinion of the 
 Queen Moari or Ngombe or Kif uta. The Garaganza people 
 at Katanga killed a near relative of Casembe and herself, and 
 when the event happened, Fungafunga, one of the Garaganza 
 or Banyamwezi being near the spot, fled and came to the 
 Mof we : he continued his flight as soon as it was dark, with- 
 out saying anything to anyone, until he got north to Kabiure. 
 The Queen and Casembe suspected Mpamari of complicity 
 with the Banyamwezi, and believed that Fungafunga had 
 communicated the news to him before fleeing further. A 
 tumult was made ; Mpamari's eldest son was killed ; and he 
 was plundered of all his copper, ivory, and slaves : the Queen 
 loudly demanded his execution, but Casembe restrained his 
 people as well as he was able and it is for this injury that he 
 now professes to be sorry. 
 
 The Queen only acted according to the principles of her 
 people. " Mpamari killed my son, kill his son himself. It 
 is difficult to get at the truth, for Mohamad or Mpamari never 
 tells the whole truth. He went to fight Nsama with Muonga, 
 and was wounded in the foot and routed, and is now glad to 
 get out of Lunda back to Ujiji. 
 
 Vltti. Mohamad Bogharib told Casembe that he could buy 
 nothing, and therefore was going away. Casembe replied 
 that he had no ivory and he might go : this was sensible ; he 
 sent far and near to find some, but failed, and now confesses 
 a truth which most chiefs hide from unwillingness to appear 
 poor before foreigners. 
 
 18^19^A. It is hot here though winter; but cold by 
 night. Casembe has sent for fish for us. 
 
 . Casembe is so slow with his fish, meal, and guides,
 
 AN ARAB'S SLAVE IN TROUBLE. 
 
 and his people so afraid to hurry him, that I think of going 
 off as soon as Mohamad Bogharib moves ; he is going to 
 Chikumbi's to buy copper, and thence he will proceed to 
 Uvira to exchange that for ivory ; but this is at present kept 
 as a secret from his slaves. The way seems thus to be opening 
 for me to go to the large lake west of Uvira. 
 
 237"^. The Arabs made a sort of sacrifice of a goat which 
 was cooked all at once ; they sent a good dish of it to me. 
 They read the Koran very industriously, and prayed for 
 success or luck in leaving, and seem sincerely religious, 
 according to the light that is in them. The use of incense 
 and sacrifices brings back the old Jewish times to mind. 
 
 A number of people went off to the Kanengwa, a rivulet 
 an hour south of this, to build huts ; there they are to take 
 leave of Casembe, for the main body goes off to-morrow, 
 after we have seen the new moon. They are very particular 
 in selecting lucky days, and anything unpleasant that may 
 have happened in one month is supposed to be avoided by 
 choosing a different day for beginning an enterprise in the 
 next. Mohamad left Uvira on the third day of a new 
 moon, and several fires happened in his camp ; he now con- 
 siders a third day inauspicious. 
 
 24:th. Detained four days yet. Casembe's chief men 
 refuse to escort Mohamad Bogharib ; they know him to be in 
 debt, and fear that he may be angry, but no dunning was 
 intended. Casembe was making every effort to get ivory 
 to liquidate it, and at last got a couple of tusks, which he 
 gave to Mohamad : he has risen much in the estimation 
 of us all. 
 
 28A. We went to Casembe ; he was as gracious as usual. 
 A case of crim. con. was brought forward against an Arab's 
 slave, and an attempt was made to arrange the matter 
 privately by offering three cloths, beads, and another slave, 
 but the complainant refused everything. Casembe dismissed 
 the case by saying to the complainant, "You send your 
 women to entrap the strangers in order to get a fine, but 
 you will get nothing :" this was highly applauded by the
 
 178 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Arabs, and the owner of the slave heaped dust on his head, 
 as many had done before for favors received. Casembe, 
 still anxious to get ivory for Mohamad, proposed another 
 delay of four days to send for it ; but all are tired, and it is 
 evident that it is not want of will that prevents ivory being 
 produced. 
 
 His men returned without any, and he frankly confessed 
 inability : he is evidently very poor. 
 
 30th. We went to the Kanengwa rivulet. 
 
 31st. Old Kapika sold his young and good-looking wife 
 for unfaithfulness, as he alleged. The sight of a lady in the 
 chain-gang shocked the ladies of Lunda, who ran to her, and 
 having ascertained from her own mouth what was sufficiently 
 apparent, that she was a slave now, clapped their hands on 
 their mouths in the way that they express wonder, surprise, 
 and horror : the hand is placed so that the fingers are on one 
 cheek and the thumb on the other. 
 
 The case of the chieftainess excited great sympathy among 
 the people; some brought her food, Kapika's daughters 
 brought her pombe and bananas ; one man offered to redeem 
 her with two, another witli three slaves, but Casembe, who is 
 very strict in punishing infidelity, said, " No, though ten 
 slaves be offered she must go." He is probably afraid of his 
 own beautiful queen should the law be relaxed. Old Kapika 
 came and said to her, " You refused me, and now I refuse 
 you." A young wife of old Perembe was also sold as a 
 punishment, but redeemed. 
 
 There is a very large proportion of very old and very tall 
 men in this district. The slave-trader is a means of punish- 
 ing the wives which these old fogies ought never to have 
 had. 
 
 Casembe sent me about a hundred-weight of the small fish 
 Nsipo, which seems to be the whitebait of our country ; it is 
 a little bitter when cooked alone, but with ground-nuts is a 
 tolerable relish : we can buy flour with these at Chikumbi's.
 
 CHAPTER, XII. 
 DISCOVERY OF LAKE BANGWEOLO. 
 
 JUKE IST, 1868. Mohamad proposes to go to Katanga to 
 buy copper, and invites me to go too. I wish to see the 
 Lufra River, but I must see Bemba or Bangweolo. Grant 
 guidance from above ! 
 
 2nd. In passing a field of cassava I picked the pods of a 
 plant called Malumbi, which climbs up the cassava bushes ; 
 at the root it has a number of tubers with e^es, exactly like 
 the potato. 
 
 4th. From what I see of slaving, even in its best phases, 
 I would not be a slave-dealer for the world. 
 
 5th. The Queen Moari passed us this morning, going to 
 build a hut at her plantation ; she has a pleasant European 
 countenance, clean light-brown skin, and a merry laugh, and 
 would be admired anywhere. I stood among the cassava to 
 see her pass ; she twirled her umbrella as she came near, 
 borne by twelve men, and seemed to take up the laugh which 
 made her and her maids bolt at my reception, showing that 
 she laughs not with her mouth only, but with her eyes and 
 cheeks : she said, " Yambo " (how are you) ? To which I 
 replied, "Yambo sana" (very well). One of her attendants 
 said, " Give her something of what you have at hand, or in 
 the pockets." I said, " I have nothing here," and asked her 
 if she would come back near my hut. She replied that she 
 would, and I duly sent for two strings of red beads, which I 
 presented. Being lower than she, I could see that she had a 
 hole through the cartilage, near the point of her slightly
 
 180 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 aquiline nose ; and a space was filed between the two front 
 teeth, so as to leave a triangular hole. 
 
 \Qth. Detained again, for business is not finished with the 
 people of Casembe. The people cannot esteem the slave- 
 trader, who is used as a means of punishing those who have 
 family differences, as those of a wife with her husband, or a 
 servant with his master. The slaves are said to be generally 
 criminals, and are sold in revenge or as punishment. 
 Kapika's wife had an ornament of the end of a shell called 
 the cone ; it was borrowed and she came away with it in her 
 hair: the owner, without making any effort to recover it, 
 seized one of Kapika's daughters as a pledge that Kapika 
 would exert himself to get it back ! 
 
 [At last the tedious delay came to an end and we must 
 now follow the Doctor on his way south to discover Lake 
 Bemba.] 
 
 HtfA. Crossed the Mbereze, ten yards broad and thigh 
 deep, ascending a range of low hills of hardened sandstone, 
 covered, as the country generally is, with forest. Our course 
 S.E. and S.S.E. 
 
 12A. We crossed the Mbereze again twice; then a very 
 deep narrow rivulet, and stopped at another in a mass of 
 trees, where we spent the night, and killing an ox remained 
 next day to eat it. When at Kanengwa a small party of men 
 came past, shouting as if they had done something of import- 
 ance : on going to them, I found that two of them carried a 
 lion slung to a pole. It was a small maneless variety, called 
 "the lion of Nyassi" or long grass. It had killed a man 
 and they killed it. They had its mouth carefully strapped, 
 and the paws tied across its chest, and were taking it to 
 Casembe. 
 
 15tfA. Very cold in mornings now (43). Found Moenem- 
 panda, Casembe's brother, on the Luluputa. A slave tried 
 to break out of his slave-stick, and actually broke half an 
 inch of tough iron with his fingers ; the end stuck in the 
 wood, or he would have freed himself. 
 
 The chief gave me a public reception, which was like that
 
 CASEMBE'S SHABBY BROTHER. 181 
 
 of Casembe, but better managed. He is young, and very 
 handsome but for a defect in his eyes, which makes him 
 keep them half shut or squinting. He walked off in the 
 jaunty way all chiefs do in this country, to show the weight 
 of rings and beads on the legs, and many imitate this 
 walk who have none, exactly as our fathers imitated the 
 big cravat of George IV., who thereby hid defects in his 
 neck : thousands carried their cravats over the chin who 
 had no defects to hide. Moenempanda carried his back 
 stiffly, and no wonder, he had about ten yards of a train 
 carried behind it. About 600 people were present. They 
 kept rank, but not step ; were well armed ; marimbas and 
 square drums formed the bands, and one musician added 
 his voice ; " I have been to Syde " (the Sultan) ; " I have 
 been to Meereput " (King of Portugal) ; " I have been to 
 the sea." At a private reception, where he was divested 
 of his train, and had only one umbrella instead of three, 
 I gave him a cloth. The Arabs thought highly of him; 
 but his graciousness had been expended on them in getting 
 into debt; he now showed no inclination to get out of it, 
 but offered about a twentieth part of the value of the goods 
 in liquidation. He sent me two pots of beer, which I care 
 not to drink except when very thirsty on a march, and 
 promised a man to guide me to Chikumbi, and then refused. 
 Casembe rose in the esteem of all as Moenempanda sank, 
 and his people were made to understand how shabbily he 
 had behaved. 
 
 22nd. March across a grassy plain southerly to the 
 Luongo, a deep river embowered in a dense forest of trees, 
 all covered with lichens some flat, others long and thready, 
 like old men's beards, and waving in the wind, just as they 
 do on the mangrove-swamp trees on the coast. 
 
 23rd. We waited for copper here, which was at first 
 refused as payment of debt. 
 
 2-ith. Six men slaves were singing as if they did not 
 feel the weight and degradation of the slave-sticks. I asked 
 the cause of their mirth, and was told that they rejoiced at
 
 182 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 the idea "of coming back after death and haunting and 
 killing those who had sold them." Some of the words I had 
 to inquire about ; for instance, the meaning of the words " to 
 haunt and kill by spirit power;" then it was, "Oh, you sent 
 me off to Manga (sea-coast), but the yoke is off when I die, 
 and back I shall come to haunt and to kill you." Then all 
 joined in the chorus, which was the name of each vendor. 
 It told not of fun, but of the bitterness and tears of such as 
 were oppressed, and on the side of the oppressors there was 
 a power : there be higher than they ! 
 
 Perembe was one of the culprits thus menaced. The 
 slave-owner asked Kapika's wife if she would return to 
 kill Kapika. The others answered to the names of the 
 different men with laughter. Her heart was evidently sore : 
 for a lady to come so low down is to her grievous. She has 
 lost her jaunty air, and is, with her head shaved, ugly ; but 
 she never forgets to address her captors with dignity, and 
 they seem to fear her. 
 
 25^A. We went over flat forest with patches of brown 
 haematite cropping out : this is the usual iron-ore, but I saw 
 in a village pieces of specular iron-ore which had been 
 brought for smelting. The Luongo flowed away somewhat 
 to our right or west, and the villagers had selected their 
 site where only well-water could be found. 
 
 The gardens had high hedges round to keep off wild 
 beasts. "We came to a grave in the forest ; it was a little 
 rounded mound as if the occupant sat in it in the usual native 
 way : it was strewed over with flour, and a number of the 
 large blue beads put on it : a little path showed that it had 
 visitors. This is the sort of grave I should prefer : to lie in 
 the still, still forest, and no hand ever disturb my bones. 
 The graves at home always seemed to me to be miserable, 
 especially those in the cold damp clay, and without elbow 
 room ; but I have nothing to do but wait till He who is over 
 all decides where I have to lay me down and die. Poor 
 Mary lies on Shupanga brae, " and beeks foment the sun." ' 
 
 * The allusion is to Mrs. Livingstone's grave.
 
 THE PARAMOUNT CHIEF. 183 
 
 Game to the Chando River, which is the boundary between 
 Casembe and Chikumbi ; but Casembe is over all. 
 
 28th. After service we went on up hills to a stockade of 
 Banyamwezi, on the Kalomina Eiyer, and here we built our 
 sheds. 
 
 1st July, 1868. I went over to Chikumbi, the paramount 
 chief of this district, and gave him a cloth, begging a man to 
 guide me to Bangweolo. He said that I was welcome to his 
 country ; all were so : I had better wait two days till he had 
 selected a good man as a guide, and he would send some food 
 for me to eat in the journey he would not say ten days, but 
 only two, and his man would take me to the smaller part of 
 the lake, and leave others to forward me to the greater or 
 Bangweolo. The smaller part is named Bemba, but that 
 name is confusing, because Bemba is the name of the country 
 in which a portion of the lake lies. When asking for Lake 
 Bemba, Kasongo's son said to me, " Bemba is not a lake, but 
 a country : " it is therefore better to use the name BANG- 
 WEOLO, which is applied to the great mass of the water, 
 though I fear that our English folks will bogle at it, or call it 
 Bungy-hollow ! 
 
 6th. Divided our salt that each may buy provisions for 
 himself: it is here of more value than beads. Chikumbi sent 
 fine flour, a load for two stout men carried in a large basket 
 slung to a pole, and a fine fat sheep, carried too because it 
 was too fat to walk the distance from his stockade. 
 
 1th 9th. After delaying several days to send our guide, 
 Chikumbi said that he feared the country people would say 
 that the Ingleza brought the Mazitu to them, and so blame 
 will be given to him. I set this down as " words of pombe," 
 beery babble ; but after returning from Bangweolo, I saw 
 that he must have been preparing to attack a stockade of 
 Banyamwezi in our path, and had he given us a guide, that 
 man would have been in danger in coming back : he therefore 
 preferred the safety of his man to keeping his promise to me. 
 
 I got a Banyamwezi guide, and left, on the 10th July, 
 going over gently rising sandstone hills, covered with forest
 
 184 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 and seeing many deserted villages, the effects of the Mazitu 
 foray : we saw also the sleeping-places and paths of the 
 Mazitu. The Banyamwezi expelled them, cutting off so 
 many of them with their guns and arrows that the marauders 
 retired. The effect of this success on the minds of the 
 Imboshwa, or Imbozhwas, as Chikumbi's people are called, 
 was not gratitude, but envy at the new power sprung up 
 among them of those who came originally as traders in 
 copper. 
 
 Kombokombo's stockade, the village to which we went 
 this day, w r as the first object of assault, and when we returned, 
 he told us that Chikumbi had assaulted him on three sides, 
 but was repulsed. The Banyamwezi were, moreover, much 
 too sharp as traders for the Imboshwa, cheating them 
 unmercifully, and lying like Greeks. We came in the midst 
 of a general jollification, and were most bountifully supplied 
 with pombe and food. The Banyamwezi acknowledge alle- 
 giance to the Sultan of Zanzibar, and all connected with him 
 are respected. Kombokombo pressed food and drink on me, 
 and when I told him that I had nothing to return for it, he 
 said that he expected nothing: he was a child of the Sultan, 
 and ought to furnish all I needed. 
 
 llth. On leaving the Chiberase we passed up over a long 
 line of hills with many villages and gardens, but mostly 
 deserted during the Mazitu raid. The people fled into the 
 forests on the hills, and were an easy prey to the marauders, 
 who seem to have been unmerciful. When we descended 
 into the valley beyond we came to a strong stockade, which 
 had successfully resisted the onset of the Mazitu ; we then 
 entered on a flat forest, with here and there sponges contain- 
 ing plenty of water ; plains succeeded the hills, and continued 
 all the way to Bangweolo. 
 
 13th. On resting at a deserted spot, the men of a village 
 in the vicinity came to us excited and apparently drunk, and 
 began to work themselves up still more by running about, 
 poising their spears at us, taking aim with their bows and 
 arrows, and making as if about to strike with their axes :
 
 TROUBLE WITH THE NATIVES. 185 
 
 they thought that we were marauders, and some plants of 
 ground-nuts strewn about gave color to the idea. There is 
 usually one good soul in such rabbles. In this case a man 
 came to me, and, addressing his fellows, said, " This is only 
 your pombe. White man, do not stand among them, but go 
 away," and then he placed himself between me and a portion 
 of the assailants, about thirty of whom were making their 
 warlike antics. "While walking quietly away with my good 
 friend they ran in front and behind bushes and trees, took 
 aim with bow and arrow, but none shot : the younger men 
 ran away with our three goats. When we had gone a 
 quarter of a mile my friend told me to wait and he would 
 bring the goats, which he did : I could not feel the inebriates 
 to be enemies ; but in that state they are the worst one can 
 encounter, for they have no fear as they have when sober. 
 One snatched away a fowl from our guide; that too was 
 restored by our friend. I did not load my gun; for any 
 accidental discharge would have inflamed them to rashness. 
 We got away without shedding blood, and were thankful. 
 The Mazitu raid has produced lawlessness in the country : 
 every one was taken as an enemy. 
 
 . We remained a day at the stockade of Moieggea. 
 
 . At the village on the south bank of the Mpanda we 
 were taken by the headman as Mazitu. He was evi- 
 dently intoxicated, and began to shut his gates with frantic 
 gesticulations. I offered to go away; but others of his 
 people, equally intoxicated, insisted on my remaining. I sat 
 down a little, but seeing that the chief was still alarmed, I 
 said to his people, " The chief objects and I can't stay : " 
 they saw the reasonableness of this, but I could not get my 
 cowardly attendants to come on, though one said to me, 
 " Come, I shall show you the way : we must speak nice to 
 them." This the wise boys think the perfection of virtue : 
 speaking nice means adopting a childish treble tone of voice 
 and words exactly similar to those of the little Scotch girl 
 who, passing through a meadow, was approached by a cow, 
 probably from curiosity. To appease this enemy, she said,
 
 186 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 " Oh, coo, coo, if you no hurt me, I no hurt you." I told 
 them to come on and leave them quietly, but they remained 
 babbling with them. The guide said that there was no 
 water in front : this I have been told too often ever to 
 believe, so I went on through the forest, and in an hour 
 and a half came to a sponge where, being joined by my 
 attendants, we passed the night. 
 
 16th. Crossing this sponge, and passing through flat 
 forest, we came to another named Meshwe, when there, as a 
 contrast, the young men volunteered to carry me across ; but 
 I had got off my shoes, and was in the water, and they came 
 along with me, showing the shallower parts. 
 
 Vlik 18th. Reached the chief village of Mapuni, near 
 the north bank of Bangweolo. On the 18th I walked a 
 little way out and saw the shores of the lake for the first 
 time, thankful that I had come safely hither. 
 
 I told the chief that my goods were all expended, and 
 gave him a fathom of calico as all I could spare : I told him 
 that as soon as I had seen and measured the lake I would 
 return north ; he replied, that seeing our goods were done 
 he could say nothing, he would give me guides, and what 
 else he should do was known to himself. He gave a public 
 reception at once. I asked if lie had ever seen anyone like 
 me, and he said, "Never." A Babisa traveler asked me 
 why I had come so far ; I said I wished to make the country 
 and people better known to the rest of the world, that we 
 were all children of one Father, and I was anxious that we 
 should know each other better, and that friendly visits 
 should be made in safety. "When asked I showed them my 
 note-book, watch, compass, burning-glass, and was loudly 
 drummed home. 
 
 I showed them the Bible, and told them a little of its 
 contents. I shall require a few days more at Bangweolo 
 than I at first intended. The moon being in its last stage 
 of waning I cannot observe till it is of some size. 
 
 19th. Went down to Masantu's village, which is on the 
 shore of the lake. Here we had as a spectator a man walking
 
 EMBARK ON THE LAKE. 187 
 
 on stilts tied to his ankles and knees. There are a great 
 many Babisa among the people. I sent the chief a fathom 
 of calico, and got an audience at once. Masantu is an oldish 
 man ; had never prayed to the Great Father of all, though 
 he said the footsteps of "Mungu" could be seen on a part 
 of Lifunge Island : a large footstep may also be seen on the 
 rock at the Chambeze, about fifteen inches long. He 
 informed us that the lake is much the largest at the part 
 called Bangweolo. 
 
 The country around the lake is all flat, and very much 
 denuded of trees, except the Motsikiri or Mosikisi, which 
 has fine dark, dense foliage, and is spared for its shade and 
 the fatty oil yielded by its seeds : we saw the people boiling 
 large pots full of the dark brown fat, which they use to 
 lubricate their hair. The islands, four in number, are all 
 flat, but well peopled. The men have many canoes, and are 
 all expert fishermen; they have many children, as fishermen 
 usually have. 
 
 21*. Canoe-men are usually extortionate, because one 
 cannot do without them. Mapuni claims authority over 
 them, and sent to demand another fathom that he may give 
 orders to them to go with us : I gave a hoe and a string of 
 beads instead, but he insisted on the cloth, and kept the hoe 
 too, as I could not afford the time to haggle. 
 
 No hot fountains or earthquakes are known in this region. 
 The bottom of the lake consists of fine white sand, and 
 a broad belt of strong rushes, say 100 yards wide, shows 
 shallow water. In the afternoons quite a crowd of canoes 
 anchor at its outer edge to angle ; the hooks are like ours, 
 but without barbs. The fish are perch chiefly, but others 
 similar to those that appear in the other lakes are found. 
 
 22ra<?. A very high wind came with the new moon, and 
 prevented our going, and also the fishermen from following 
 their calling. 
 
 25A. We embarked at 11.40 A.M. in a fine canoe, 45 feet 
 long, 4 feet deep, and 4 feet broad. The waves were high, 
 but the canoe was very dry, and five stout men propelled
 
 188 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 her quickly towards an opening in Lifunge Island, on our 
 S.E. Here we stopped to wood, and I went away to look at 
 the island. 
 
 The canoe-men now said that they would start, then that 
 they would sleep here, because we could not reach the Island 
 Mpabala before dark, and would not get a hut. I said that 
 it would be sleeping out of doors only in either case, so they 
 went. It was all sea horizon on our south and north, 
 between Lifunge and Mpabala, and between Lifunge and 
 Kisi. "We could not go to Kisi, because, as the canoe-men 
 told us, they had stolen their canoe thence. Though we 
 decided to go, we remained awhile to let the sea go down. 
 A hammerhead's nest on one of the trees was fully four feet 
 high. Coarse rushes show the shoals near the islands. 
 
 The water is of a deep sea-green color, probably from the 
 reflection of the fine white sand of the bottom ; we saw no 
 part having the deep dark blue of Nyassa, and conjecture 
 that the depth is not great ; but I had to leave our line when 
 Amoda absconded. On Kisi we observed a dark square 
 mass, which at first I took to be a low hill : it turned out to 
 be a mass of trees (probably the place of sepulture, for the 
 graveyards are always untouched), and shows what a dense 
 forest this land would become were it not for the influence 
 of men. 
 
 We reached Mpabala after dark. It was bitterly cold, 
 from the amount of moisture in the air. I asked a man who 
 came to see what the arrival was, for a hut ; he said, " Do 
 strangers require huts, or ask for them at night ? " he then 
 led us to the public place of meeting, called Nsaka, which 
 is a large shed, with planks around and open spaces between, 
 instead of walls; here we cooked a little porridge, and ate it, 
 then I lay down on one side, with the canoe-men and my 
 attendants at the fire in the middle, and was soon asleep, and 
 dreamed that I had apartments in Mivart's Hotel. This 
 made me feel much amused next day, for I never dream 
 unless I am ill, or going to be ill ; and of all places in the 
 world, I never thought of Mivart's Hotel in my waking
 
 DESERTED BY THE CANOE-MEN. 191, 
 
 moments ; a freak of the fancy surely, for I was not at all dis- 
 contented with my fare, or apartment, I was only afraid of 
 getting a stock of vermin from my associates. 
 
 26th. I have to stand the stare of a crowd of people at 
 every new place for hours: all usually talk as quickly as 
 their glib tongues can ; these certainly do not belong to the 
 tribes who are supposed to eke out their language by signs ! A 
 few indulge their curiosity in sight-seeing, but go on steadily 
 weaving nets, or by beating bark-cloth, or in spinning cotton ; 
 others smoke their big tobacco pipes, or nurse a baby, or 
 enjoy the heat of the bright morning sun. I walked across 
 the north end of the island, and found it to be about one 
 mile broad. At the highest part we could see the tops of 
 the trees on Kasango, a small uninhabited islet, about thirty 
 miles distant : the tops of the trees were evidently lifted up 
 by the mirage, for near the shore and at other parts they 
 were invisible, even with a good glass. 
 
 2T^A. The canoe-men now got into a flurry, because they 
 were told here that the Kisi men had got an inkling that their 
 canoe was here, and were coming to take it ; they said to 
 me that they would come back for me, but I could not trust 
 thieves to be so honest. I thought of seizing their paddles, 
 and appealing to the headmen of the island; but aware 
 from past experience how easy it is for acknowledged thieves 
 like them to get up a tale to secure the cheap sympathy of 
 the soft-headed, or tender-hearted, I resolved to bear with 
 meekness, though groaning inwardly, the loss of two of the 
 four days for which I had paid them. I had only my cover- 
 let to hire another canoe, and it was now very cold ; the few 
 beads left would all be required to buy food in the way back ; 
 I might have got food by shooting buffaloes, but that on 
 foot and through grass, with stalks as thick as a goose quill, 
 is dreadfully hard work ; I had thus to return to Masantu's, 
 and trust to the distances as deduced from the time taken 
 by the natives in their canoes for the size of the lake. I 
 think that I am considerably within the mark in setting 
 down Bangweolo as 150 miles long by 80 broad.
 
 192 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 . We commenced our march back, being eager to get 
 to Chikumbi's in case Mohamad should go thence to Katanga. 
 We touched at Mapuni's, and then went on to the Mato and 
 Moieggea's stockade, where he heard of Chikumbi's attack on 
 Kombokombo's. Moieggea had taken the hint, and was 
 finishing a second line of defense around his village: we 
 reached him on the 1st of August, 1868, and stopped for 
 Sunday the 2nd : on the 3rd back to the Rofubu, where I 
 was fortunate enough to hire a canoe to take me over. 
 
 5th August) 1868. Reach Kombokombo, who is very 
 liberal, and pressed us to stay a day with him as well as 
 with others; we complied, and found that Mohamad had 
 gone nowhere. 
 
 1th. We found a party starting from Kizinga for the 
 coast, having our letters with them ; it will take five months 
 to reach the sea. The disturbed state of the country pre- 
 vented parties of traders proceeding in various directions, 
 and one that set off on the same day with us was obliged to 
 return. Mohamad has resolved to go to Manyuema as soon 
 as parties of his men now out return : this is all in my favor; 
 it is in the way I want to go to see the Lualaba and Lufira 
 to Chowambe. The way seems opening out before me, and 
 I am thankful. I resolved to go north by way of Casembe, 
 and guides were ready to start, so was I ; but rumors of war 
 where we were going induced me to halt to find out the 
 truth : the guides were going to divine, by means of a cock, 
 to see if it would be lucky to go with me at present. The 
 rumors of danger became so circumstantial that our fence 
 was needed: a well was dug inside, and the Banyamwezi 
 were employed to smelt copper as for the market of Manyu- 
 ema, and balls for war. Syde bin Omar soon came over the 
 Luapula from Iramba, and the state of confusion induced the 
 traders to agree to unite their forces and make a safe retreat 
 out of the country. They objected very strongly to my 
 going away down the right bank of the Luapula with my 
 small party, though it was in sight ; so I resolved to remain 
 till all went.
 
 WAR DECLARED AGAINST ARABS. 193 
 
 ~L5th. Bin Omar, a Suaheli, came from Muaboso on Cham- 
 beze in six days, crossing in that space twenty-two burns or 
 oozes, from knee to waist deep. 
 
 29A. Kaskas began to-day hot and sultry. This will 
 continue till rains fall. 
 
 The notion of a rainy zone in which the clouds deposit 
 their treasures in perpetual showers, has received no con- 
 firmation from my observations. 
 
 Thanks to that all-embracing Providence, which has 
 watched over and enabled me to discover what I have done. 
 There is still much to do, and if health and protection be 
 granted I shall make a complete thing of it. 
 
 [Dr. Livingstone seems to have been unable to find oppor- 
 tunity to make daily entries at this period. All was turmoil 
 and panic, and his life appears to have been in imminent 
 danger. Briefly we see that on his way back from the lake 
 he found that his Arab associates of the last few months had 
 taken up Casembe's cause against the devastating hordes of 
 Mazitu, who had swept down on these parts, and had 
 repulsed them. But now a fresh complication arose ! 
 Casembe and Chikumbi became alarmed lest the Arabs, 
 feeling their own power, should turn upon them and possess 
 the whole country ; so they joined forces and stormed Kom- 
 bokombo, one of the leading Arabs, and with what success 
 we shall see.] 
 
 5th October, 1868. I was detained in the Imbozhwa coun- 
 try much longer than I relished. The inroad of the Mazitu, 
 of which Casembe had just heard when we reached the 
 Mof we, was the first cause of delay : he had at once sent off 
 men to verify the report, and requested me to remain till his 
 messengers should return. This foray produced a state of 
 lawlessness in the country, which was the main reason of our 
 further detention. 
 
 The Imbozhwa fled before the marauders, and the Ban- 
 yamwezi or Garaganza, who had come in numbers to trade 
 in copper, took on themselves the duty of expelling the 
 invaders, and this, by means of their muskets, they did
 
 194: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 effectually ; then, building stockades, they excited the jealousy 
 of the Imbozhwa lords of the soil who, instead of feeling 
 grateful, hated the new power thus sprung up among them ! 
 They had suffered severely from the sharp dealing of the 
 strangers already, and Chikumbi made a determined assault 
 on the stockade of Kombokombo in vain. 
 
 Confusion prevailed all over the country. Some Banyam- 
 wezi assumed the offensive against the Bausi, who resemble 
 the Imbozhwa, but are further south, and captured and sold 
 some prisoners : it was in this state of things that, as already 
 mentioned, I was surrounded by a party of furious Imbozhwa. 
 A crowd stood within fifteen or twenty yards with spears 
 poised and arrows set in the bowstrings, and some took aim 
 at me: they took us for plunderers, and some plants of 
 ground-nuts thrown about gave color to their idea. One 
 good soul helped us away a blessing be on him and his. 
 Another chief man took us for Mazitu! In this state of 
 confusion Casembe heard that my party had been cut off; 
 he called in Moenempanda and took the field in person, in 
 order to punish the Banyamwezi, against whom he has an 
 old grudge for killing a near relative of his family, selling 
 Bausi, and setting themselves up as a power in his country. 
 
 The two Arab traders now in the country felt that they 
 must unite their forces, and thereby effect a safe retreat. 
 Chikumbi had kept twenty-eight tusks for Syde bin Omar 
 safely ; but the coming of Casembe might have put it out 
 of his power to deliver up his trust in safety, for an army 
 here is often quite lawless : each man takes to himself what 
 he can. When united we marched from Kizinga on 23rd 
 September together, built fences every night to protect 
 ourselves and about 400 Banyamwezi, who took the oppor- 
 tunity to get safely away. Kombokombo came away from 
 his stockade, and also part of the way, but cut away by night 
 across country to join the parties of his countrymen who 
 still love to trade in Katanga copper. We were not molested, 
 but came nearly north to the Kalongosi. Syde parted from 
 us, and went away east to Mozamba, and thence to the coast.
 
 CHAPTER Xin. 
 MAKCH FKOM THE IMBOZHWA COUNTRY. 
 
 OCTOBEE HTH, 1868. From Kizinga north the country 
 is all covered with forest, and thrown up into ridges of 
 hardened sandstone, capped occasionally with fine-grained 
 clay schist. Trees often appear of large size and of a species 
 closely resembling the gum-copal tree; on the heights 
 masukos and rhododendrons are found, and when exposed 
 they are bent away from the south-east. Animals, as 
 buffaloes and elephants, are plentiful, but wild. Rivulets 
 numerous, and running now as briskly as brooks do after 
 much rain in England. All on the south-western side of 
 Kalongosi are subjects of Casembe, that is Balunda, or 
 Imbozhwa. 
 
 It was gratifying to see the Banyamwezi carrying their 
 sick in cots slung between two men : in the course of time 
 they tired of this, and one man, who was carried several 
 days, remained with Chumah. 
 
 12<A. We came to the Kalongosi at the ford named 
 Mosolo. Here 500 at least of Nsama's people stood on the 
 opposite shore to know what we wanted. Two fathoms of 
 calico were sent over, and then I and thirty guns went over 
 to protect the people in the ford : as we approached they 
 retired. I went to them, and told them that I had been to 
 Nsama's, and he gave me a goat and food, and we were good 
 friends : some had seen me there, and they now crowded to 
 look till the Arabs thought it unsafe for me to be among 
 them : if I had come with bared skin they would have fled.
 
 196 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 All became friendly : an elephant was killed, and we remained 
 two days buying food. We passed down between the ranges 
 of hills on the east of Moero, the path we followed when 
 we first visited Caseinbe. 
 
 20^A 21st. From the Luao I went over to the chief 
 village of Muabo, and begged him to show me the excava- 
 tions in his country: he declined, by saying that I came 
 from a crowd of people, and must go to Kabwabwata, and 
 wait awhile there ; meanwhile he would think what he should 
 do, whether to refuse or invite me to come. He evidently 
 does not wish me to see his strongholds. All his people 
 could go into them, though over ten thousand : they are all 
 abundantly supplied with water, and they form the store- 
 houses for grain. 
 
 22ra?. We came to Kabwabwata, and I hope I may find 
 a way to other underground houses. It is probable that they 
 are not the workmanship of the ancestors of the present 
 occupants, for they ascribe their formation invariably to the 
 Deity, Mulungu or Reza: if their forefathers had made 
 them, some tradition would have existed of them. 
 
 27tfA 30tfA. Salem bin Habib was killed by the people in 
 Rua : he had put up a tent and they attacked it in the night, 
 and stabbed him through it. Syde bin Habib waged a war 
 of vengeance all through Rua after this for the murder of 
 his brother: Sef's raid may have led the people to the 
 murder. 
 
 \st November, 1868. At Kabwabwata ; we are waiting 
 till Syde comes up that we may help him. He has an 
 enormous number of tusks and bars of copper, sufficient 
 it seems for all his people to take forward, going and 
 returning three times over. He has large canoes on the 
 lake, and will help us in return. 
 
 8th. Syde bin Habib is said to have amassed 150 frasilahs 
 of ivory = 5250 Ibs., and 300 frasilahs of copper = 10,500 
 Ibs. With one hundred carriers he requires to make four 
 relays, or otherwise make the journey four times over at 
 every stage. Twenty-one of his slaves ran away in one
 
 COTEMPORARY EXPLORERS. 197 
 
 night, and only four were caught again : they were not all 
 bought, nor was the copper and ivory come at by fair means : 
 the murder of his brother was a good excuse for plunder, 
 murder, and capture. Mpweto is suspected of harboring 
 them as living on the banks of the Lualaba, for they could 
 not get over without assistance from his canoes and people. 
 Mpweto said, i( Remove from me, and we shall see if they 
 come this way." They are not willing to deliver fugitives 
 up. Syde sent for Elmas, the only thing of the Mullam or 
 clerical order here, probably to ask if the Koran authorizes 
 him to attack Mpweto. Mullam will reply, " Yes, certainly. 
 If Mpweto won't restore your slaves, take what you can by 
 force." Syde's bloodshed is now pretty large, and he is 
 becoming afraid for his own life ; if he ceases not, he will 
 himself be caught some day. 
 
 Ill of fever two days. Better and thankful. 
 
 The discovery of the sources of the Nile is somewhat 
 akin in importance to the discovery of the North- West 
 Passage, which called forth, though in a minor degree, the 
 energy, the perseverance, and the pluck of Englishmen, and 
 all that does that, is beneficial to the nation and to its pos- 
 terity. The discovery of the sources of the Nile possesses, 
 moreover, an element of interest which the North-West 
 Passage never had. The great men of antiquity have 
 recorded their ardent desires to know the fountains of 
 what Homer called " Egypfs heaven-descended spring" 
 Sesostris, the first who in camp with his army made and 
 distributed maps, not to Egyptians only, but to the Scythians, 
 naturally wished to know the springs, says Eustathius, of 
 the river on whose banks he flourished. Alexander the 
 Great, who founded a celebrated city at this river's mouth, 
 looked up the stream with the same desire, and so did the 
 Caesars. The great Julius Caesar is made by Lucan to say 
 that he would give up the civil war if he might but see the 
 fountains of this far-famed river. Nero Caesar sent two 
 centurions to examine the " Caput Nili" They reported 
 that they saw the river rushing with great force from two
 
 198 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 rocks, and beyond that it was lost in immense marshes. 
 This was probably "native information," concerning the 
 cataracts of the Nile and a long space above them, which 
 had already been enlarged by others into two hills with 
 sharp conical tops called Crophi and Mophi midway 
 between which lay the fountains of the Nile fountains 
 which it was impossible to fathom, and which gave forth 
 half their water to Ethiopia in the south, and the other half 
 to Egypt in the north : that which these men failed to find, 
 and that which great minds in ancient times longed to know, 
 has in this late age been brought to light by the patient toil 
 and laborious perseverance of Englishmen. 
 
 In laying a contribution to this discovery at the feet of his 
 countrymen, the writer desires to give all the honor to his 
 predecessors which they deserve. The work of Speke and 
 Grant is deserving of the highest commendation, inasmuch 
 as they opened up an immense tract of previously unexplored 
 country, in the firm belief they were bringing to light the 
 head of the Nile. No one can appreciate the difficulties of 
 their feat unless he has gone into new country. In associa- 
 tion with Captain Burton, Speke came much nearer to the 
 " coy fountains," than at the Victoria Nyanza, but they all 
 turned their backs on them. Mr. Baker showed courage 
 and perseverance worthy of an Englishman in following out 
 the hints given by Speke and Grant. But none rises higher 
 in my estimation than the Dutch lady, Miss Tinne, who, 
 after the severest domestic afflictions, nobly persevered in 
 the teeth of every difficulty, and only turned away from the 
 object of her expedition, after being assured by Speke and 
 Grant that they had. already discovered in Victoria Nyanza 
 the sources she sought. Had they not given their own mis- 
 taken views, the wise foresight by which she provided a 
 steamer, would inevitably have led her to pull up, and by 
 canoes to reach Lake Bangweolo's sources, full five hundred 
 miles south of the most southerly part of Victoria Nyanza. 
 She evidently possesses some of the indomitable pluck of 
 Van Tromp, whose tomb every Englishman who goes to
 
 NOTES ON CLIMATE. 199 
 
 Holland must see.* Her doctor was made a baron were 
 she not a Dutch lady already we think she ought to be made 
 a duchm. 
 
 The subject of change of climate from alteration of level 
 has not received the -investigation it deserves. Mr. Darwin 
 saw reason to believe that very great alterations of altitude, 
 and of course climate, had taken place in South America 
 and the islands of the Pacific ; the level of a country above 
 the sea I believe he thought to be as variable as the winds. 
 A very great alteration of altitude has also taken place in 
 Africa ; this is apparent on the sea-coast of Angola, and all 
 through the center of the country, where large rivers which 
 once flowed southwards and westwards are no longer able to 
 run in these directions : the general desiccation of the country, 
 as seen in the beds of large rivers and of enormous lakes, 
 tells the same tale. Portions of the east coast have sunk, 
 others have risen, even in the Historic Period. The upper 
 or northern end of the Red Sea has risen, so that the place 
 of the passage of the children of Israel is now between forty 
 and fifty miles from Suez, the modern head of the Gulf. 
 This upheaval, and not the sand from the desert, caused the 
 disuse of the ancient canal across the Isthmus : it took 
 place since the Mohamadan conquest of Egypt. The women 
 of the Jewish captivities were carried past the end of the 
 Red Sea and along the Mediterranean in ox-wagons, where 
 such cattle would now all perish for want of water and 
 pasture ; in fact, the route to Assyria would have proved 
 more fatal to captives then than the middle passage has 
 been to Africans since. It may be true that, as the desert is 
 now, it could not have been traversed by the multitude 
 under Moses the German strictures put forth by Dr. 
 Colenso, under the plea of the progress of science, assume 
 that no alteration has taken place in either desert or climate 
 but a scientific examination of the subject would have 
 ascertained what the country was then when it afforded 
 
 * Miss Tinne" succumbed to the dangers of African traveling before Living- 
 stone penned these just words of appreciation.
 
 200 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 pasture to "flocks and herds, and even very much cattle." 
 We know that Eziongeber was, with its docks, on the sea- 
 shore, with water in abundance for the ship-carpenters : it 
 is now far from the head of the Elaic Gulf in a parched 
 desert. 
 
 Aden, when visited by the Portuguese Balthazar less than 
 300 years ago, was a perfect garden ; but it is now a vast 
 conglomeration of black volcanic rocks, with so little vegeta- 
 tion, that, on seeing flocks of goats driven out, I thought of 
 the Irish cabman at an ascent slamming the door of his cab 
 and whispering to his fare, " Whish, it's to desave the baste : 
 he thinks that you are out walking." Gigantic tanks in 
 great numbers and the ruins of aqueducts appear as relics of 
 the past, where no rain now falls for three or more years at 
 a time. They have all dried up by a change of climate, 
 possibly similar and cotemporaneous with that which has 
 dried up the Dead Sea. 
 
 The journey of Ezra was undertaken after a fast at the 
 River Ahava. With nearly 50,000 people he had only about 
 8,000 beasts of burden. He was ashamed to ask a band of 
 soldiers and horsemen for protection in the way. It took 
 about four months to reach Jerusalem ; this would give five 
 and a half or six miles a day, as the crow flies, which is equal 
 to twelve or fifteen miles of surface traveled over; this 
 bespeaks a country capable of yielding both provisions and 
 water, such as cannot now be found. Ezra would not have 
 been ashamed to ask for camels to carry provisions and 
 water had the country been as dry as it is now. The 
 prophets, in telling all the woes and miseries of the cap- 
 tivities, never allude to suffering or perishing by thirst in 
 the way, or being left to rot in the route as African slaves 
 are now in a well-watered country. Had the route to 
 Assyria been then as it is now, they could scarcely have 
 avoided referring to the thirst of the way ; but everything 
 else is mentioned except that. 
 
 HtfA. Muabo visited this village, but refuses to show his 
 underground houses.
 
 WAITING FOR THE ARABS TO START. 201 
 
 . I was on the point of starting without Mohamad 
 Bogharib, but he begged me not to go till he had settled some 
 weighty matter about a wife he is to get at Ujiji from 
 Mpamari ; we must have the new moon, which will appear 
 in three days, for lucky starting, and will leave Syde bin 
 Habib at Chisabi's. Meanwhile two M'omen slaves ran away, 
 and Syde has got only five back of his twenty-one fugitives. 
 Mullarn was mild with his decisions, and returned here; he 
 informed me that many of Syde's slaves, about forty, fled. 
 Of those who cannot escape many die, evidently broken- 
 hearted; they are captives, and not, as slaves often are, 
 criminals sold for their guilt; hence the great mortality 
 caused by being taken to the sea to be, as they believe, fatted 
 and eaten. Poor things ! Heaven help them ! 
 
 [It will be remembered that several of his men refused to 
 go to Lake Bangweolo with him: they seem now to have 
 thought better of it, and on his return are anxious to come 
 back to their old master who, for his part, is evidently 
 willing to overlook a good deal.] 
 
 I have taken all the runaways back again ; after trying 
 the independent life they will behave better. Much of 
 their ill conduct may be ascribed to seeing that after the 
 flight of the Johanna men I was entirely dependent on 
 them : more enlightened people often take advantage of 
 men in similar circumstances ; though I have seen pure 
 Africans come out generously to aid one abandoned to their 
 care. I have faults myself. 
 
 15^A. The Arabs have some tradition of the Emir Musa 
 coining as far south as the Jagga country. Some say he 
 lived N. E. of Sunna, now Mteza ; but it is so mixed up with 
 fable and tales of the Genii (Mageni), that it cannot refer to 
 the great Moses, concerning whose residence at Meroe and 
 marriage of the King of Ethiopia's daughter there is also 
 some vague tradition further north : the only thing of inter- 
 est to me is the city of Meroe, which is lost, and may, if 
 built by ancient Egyptians, still be found. 
 
 . I am tired out by waiting after finishing the
 
 202 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Journal, and will go off to-morrow north. Simon killed a 
 zebra after I had taken the above resolution, and this supply 
 of meat makes delay bearable, for besides flesh, of which I 
 had none, we can buy all kinds of grain and pulse for the 
 next few days. The women of the adjacent villages crowd 
 into this as soon as they hear of an animal killed, and sell all 
 the produce of their plantations for meat. 
 
 18A. A pretty little woman ran away from her husband, 
 and came to " Mpamari." Her husband brought three hoes, 
 a checked cloth, and two strings of large neck beads to 
 redeem her ; but this old fellow wants her for himself, and 
 by native law he can keep her as his slave-wife. Slave- 
 owners make a bad neighborhood, for the slaves are always 
 running away and the headmen are expected to restore the 
 fugitives for a bit of cloth. An old woman of Mpamari's fled 
 three times ; she was caught yesterday, and tied to a post for 
 the young slaves to plague her. Her daughter burst into an 
 agony of tears on seeing them tying her mother, and Mpa- 
 mari ordered her to be tied to the mother's back for crying ; 
 I interceded for her, and she was let go. He said, "You 
 don't care, though Syed Majid loses his money." I replied, 
 " Let the old woman go, she will be off again to-morrow." 
 But they cannot bear to let a slave have freedom. I don't 
 understand what effect his long prayers and prostrations 
 towards the " Kibla " have on his own mind ; they cannot 
 affect the minds of his slaves favorably, nor do they mine, 
 though I am as charitable as most people. 
 
 19A. I prepared to start to-day, but Mohamad Bogharib 
 has been very kind, and indeed cooked meals for me from 
 my arrival at Casembe's, 6th May last, till we came here, 
 22nd October ; the food was coarse enough, but still it was 
 food ; and I did not like to refuse his genuine hospitality. 
 He now begged of me not to go for three days, and then he 
 would come along with me ! Mpamari also entreated. I 
 would not have minded him, but they have influence with 
 the canoe-men on Tanganyika, and it is well not to get a bad 
 name if possible.
 
 THE IMBOZHWA ATTACK THE CAMP. 203 
 
 . Mohamad Bogharib purposed to attack two villages 
 near to this, from an idea that the people there concealed 
 his runaway slaves ; by remaining I think that I have put a 
 stop to this, as he did not like to pillage while I was in com- 
 pany : Mpamari also turned round towards peace, though he 
 called all the riff-raff to muster, and caracoled among them 
 like an old broken-winded horse. One man became so 
 excited with yelling, that the others had to disarm him, and 
 he then fell down as if in a fit ; water poured on his head 
 brought him to calmness. 
 
 22nd. This evening the Imbozhwa, or Babemba, came 
 at dusk, and killed a Wanyamwezi woman on one side of 
 the village, and a woman and child on the other side of it. 
 I took this to be the result of the warlike demonstration men- 
 tioned above ; but one of Mohamad Bogharib's people, named 
 Bin Juma, had gone to a village on the north of this and 
 seized two women and two girls, in lieu of four slaves who 
 had run away. The headman, resenting this, shot an arrow 
 into one of Bin Juma's party, and Bin Juma shot a woman 
 with his gun. 
 
 This, it turned out, had roused the whole country, and 
 next morning we were assailed by a crowd of Irabozhwa on 
 three sides : we had no stockade, but the men built one as 
 fast as the enemy allowed, cutting down trees and carrying 
 them to the line of defence, while others kept the assailants 
 at bay with their guns. Had it not been for the crowd of 
 Banyamwezi which we have, who shot vigorously with their 
 arrows, and occasionally chased the Imbozhwa, we should 
 have been routed. I did not go near the fighting; but 
 remained in my house to defend my luggage if necessary. 
 The women went up and down the village with sieves, as if 
 winnowing, and singing songs, and lullilooing, to encourage 
 their husbands and friends who were fighting, each had a 
 branch of the Ficus indica in her hand, which she waved, I 
 suppose as a charm. About ten of the Imbozhwa are said 
 to have been killed, but dead and wounded were at once 
 carried ofi by their countrymen. They continued the assault
 
 204 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 from early dawn till 1 P.M., and showed great bravery, but 
 they wounded only two with their arrows. Their care to 
 secure the wounded was admirable : two or three at once 
 seized the fallen man, and ran off with him, though pursued 
 by a great crowd of Banyamwezi with spears, and fired at by 
 the Suaheli Victoria-cross fellows truly many of them were ! 
 Those who had a bunch of animals' tails, with medicine, 
 tied to their waists, came sidling and ambling up to near the 
 unfinished stockade, and shot their arrows high up into the 
 air, to fall among the Wanyamwezi, then picked up any 
 arrows on the field, ran back, and returned again. They 
 thought that by the ambling gait they avoided the balls, and 
 when these whistled past them they put down their heads, 
 as if to allow them to pass over ; they had never encoun- 
 tered guns before. We did not then know it, but Muabo, 
 Phuta, Ngurue, Sandaruko, and Chapi, were the assailants, 
 for we found it out by the losses each of these five chiefs 
 sustained. 
 
 It was quite evident to me that the Suaheli Arabs were 
 quite taken aback by the attitude of the natives ; they 
 expected them to flee as soon as they heard a gun fired in 
 anger, but instead of this we were very nearly being cut off, 
 and should have been but for our Banyamwezi allies. It is 
 fortunate that the attacking party had no success in trying 
 to get Mpweto and Karembwe to join them against us, or it 
 would have been more serious still. 
 
 24tfA. The Imbozhwa, or Babemba rather, came early this 
 morning, and called on Mohamad to come out of his stockade 
 if he were a man who could fight, but the fence is now 
 finished, and no one seems willing to obey the taunting call : 
 I have nothing to do with it, but feel thankful that I was 
 detained, and did not, with my few attendants, fall into the 
 hands of the justly infuriated Babemba. They kept up the 
 attack to-day, and some went out to them, fighting till noon : 
 when a man was killed and not carried off, the Wanyamwezi 
 brought his head and put it on a pole on the stockade six 
 heads were thus placed. A fine young man was caught and
 
 NO QUARTER WITH THE ARABS. 205 
 
 brought in toy the "Wanyamwezi, one stabbed him behind, 
 another cut his forehead with an axe. I called in vain to 
 them not to kill him. As a last appeal, he said to the crowd 
 that surrounded him, " Don't kill me, and 1 shall take you 
 to where the women are." " You lie," said his enemies ; 
 "you intend to take us where we may be shot by your 
 friends ;" and they killed him. It was horrible : I protested 
 loudly against any repetition of this wickedness, and the 
 more sensible agreed that prisoners ought not to be killed, 
 but the Banyamwezi are incensed against the Babemba 
 because of the women killed on the 22nd. 
 
 25th. The Babemba kept off on the third day, and the 
 Arabs are thinking it will be a good thing if we get out of 
 the country unscathed. Men were sent off on the night of 
 the 23rd to Syde bin Habib for powder and help. Mohamad 
 Bogharib is now "unwilling to take the onus of the war : he 
 blames Mpamari, and Mpamari blames him ; I told Mohamad 
 that the war was undoubtedly his work, inasmuch as Bin 
 Juma is his man, and he, approved of his seizing the women. 
 
 He does not like this, but it is true ; he would not have 
 entered a village of Casembe or Moamba or Chikumbi as he 
 did Chapi's man's village : the people here are simply men of 
 more mettle than he imagined, and his folly in beginning a 
 war in which, if possible, his slaves will slip through his hands 
 is apparent to all, even to himself. Syde sent four barrels 
 of gunpowder and ten men, who arrived during last night. 
 
 27tfA. Two of Muabo's men came over to bring on a 
 parley : one told us that he had been on the south side of the 
 village before, and heard one man say to another " mo pige " 
 (shoot him). Mpamari gave them a long oration in exculpa- 
 tion, but it was only the same everlasting story of fugitive 
 slaves. The slave-traders cannot prevent them from escaping, 
 and impudently think that the country people ought to catch 
 them, and thus be their humble servants, and also the perse- 
 cutors of their own countrymen ! If they cannot keep 
 them, why buy them why put their money into a bag with 
 holes?
 
 206 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 It is exactly what took place in America flare-owners 
 are bad neighbors everywhere. Canada was threatened, 
 England browbeaten, and the Northerners all but kicked 
 on the same score, and all as if property in slaves had 
 privileges which no other goods have. To hear the Arabs 
 say of the slaves after they are fled, " Oh, they are bad, bad, 
 very bad !" (and they entreated me too to free them from 
 the yoke), is, as the young ladies say, " too absurd." The 
 chiefs also who do not apprehend fugitives, they too are 
 "bad." 
 
 I proposed to Mohamad Bogharib to send back the women 
 seized by Bin Juma, to show the Babemba that he disap- 
 proved of the act and was willing to make peace, but this 
 was four barrels of gunpowder or 160 dollars, while slaves 
 lawfully bought would have cost him only eight or ten yards 
 of calico each. At the conclusion of Mpamari's speech the 
 four barrels of gunpowder were exhibited, and so was the 
 Koran, to impress them (Muabo's people) with an idea of 
 their great power. 
 
 282A-29ZA. It is proposed to go and force our way if we 
 can to the north, but all feel that that would be a fine oppor- 
 tunity for the slaves to escape, and they would not be loth to 
 embrace it ; this makes it a serious matter, and the Koran is 
 consulted at hours which are auspicious. 
 
 30A. Messengers sent to Muabo to ask a path, or in plain 
 words protection from him ; Mpamari protests his innocence 
 of the whole affair. 
 
 1st December, 1868. Muabo's people over again; would 
 fain send them to make peace with Chapi ! 
 
 2nd. The detention is excessively vexatious to me. 
 Muabo sent three slaves as offers of peace a fine self- 
 imposed, but he is on our south side, and we wish to go 
 north. 
 
 Zrd. A party went to-day to clear the way to the north, 
 but were warmly received by Babemba with arrows ; they 
 came back with one woman captured, and they say that they 
 killed one man : one of themselves is wounded, and many
 
 NATIVE IDOLS. 
 
 others in danger : others who went east were shot at, and 
 wounded too. 
 
 4th. A party went east, and were fain to flee from the 
 Babemba ; the same thing occurred on our west, and to-day 
 (5th) all were called to strengthen the stockade for fear that 
 the enemy may enter uninvited. The slaves would certainly 
 flee, and small blame to them though they did. Mpamari 
 proposed to go off north by night, but his people objected, 
 as even a child crying would arouse the Babemba, and reveal 
 the flight ; so finally he sent off to ask Syde what he ought to 
 do, whether to retire by day or by night ; probably entreat- 
 ing Syde to come and protect him. 
 
 A sort of idol is found in every village in this part ; it is of 
 wood, and represents the features, markings and fashion of 
 the hair of the inhabitants : some have little huts built for 
 them others are in common houses. The Babemba call 
 them JV&m, and they present pombe, flour, bhang, tobacco, 
 and light a fire for them to smoke by. They represent the 
 departed father or mother, and it is supposed that they are 
 pleased with the offerings made to their representatives, but 
 all deny that they pray to them. Casembe has very many of 
 these Nkisi; one with long hair, and named Motombo, is 
 carried in front when he takes the field ; names of dead 
 chiefs are sometimes given to them. 
 
 6th. Ten of Syde bin Habib's people came over, bringing 
 a letter, the contents of which neither Mpamari nor Mohamad 
 cares to reveal. Some think, with great probability, that he 
 asks, ""Why did you begin a war if you wanted to leave so 
 soon ? Did you not know that the country people would 
 take advantage of your march, encumbered as you will be 
 by women and slaves ? " Mohamad Bogharib called me to 
 ask what advice I could give him, as all his own advice, and 
 devices too, had been lost or were useless, and he did not 
 know what to do. The Banyamwezi threatened to go off by 
 night and leave him, as they are incensed against the 
 Babemba, and offended because the Arabs do not aid them 
 in wreaking their vengeance upon them.
 
 208 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 I took care not to give any advice, but said, if I had been 
 or was in his place, I would have sent or would send back 
 Bin Juma's captives, to show that I disapproved of his act 
 the first in the war and was willing to make peace with 
 Chapi. He said that he did not know that Bin Juma would 
 capture these people ; that Bin Juma had met some natives 
 with fish, and took ten by force, that the natives, in revenge, 
 caught three Banyamwezi slaves, and Bin Juma then gave 
 one slave to them as a fine, but Mohamad did not know of 
 this affair either. I am of opinion, however, that he was 
 fully aware of both matters, and Mpamari's caracoling showed 
 that he knew it all, though now he denies it. 
 
 Bin Juma is a long, thin, lanky Suaheli, six feet two high, 
 with a hooked nose and large lips : I told Mohamad that if 
 he were to go with us to Manyiiema, the whole party would 
 be cut off. He came here, bought a slave boy, and allowed 
 him to escape ; then browbeat Chapi's man about him (and 
 he says, three others) ; and caught ten in lieu of him, of 
 which Mohamad restored six : this was the origin of the war. 
 Now that we are in the middle of it, I must do as Mohamad 
 does in going off either by day or by night. It is unreason- 
 able to ask my advice now, but it is felt that they have very 
 unjustifiably placed me in a false position, and they fear that 
 Syed Majid will impute blame to them; meanwhile Syde bin 
 Habib sent a private message to me to come with his men to 
 him, and leave this party. 
 
 I perceive that the plan now is to try and clear our way of 
 Chapi, and then march, but I am so thoroughly disgusted 
 with this slave-war, that I think of running the risk of attack 
 by the country people, and go off to-morrow without Mohamad 
 Bogharib, though I like him much more than I do Mpamari 
 or Syde bin Habib. It is too glaring hypocrisy to go to the 
 Koran for guidance while the stolen women, girls, and fish, 
 are in Bin Juma's hands. 
 
 8A 9th. I had to wait for the Banyamwezi preparing 
 food : Mohamad has no authority over them, or indeed over 
 anyone else. Two Babemba men came in and said that they
 
 THE START FOR FJIJI. 209 
 
 had given up fighting, and begged for their wives, who had 
 been captured by Syde's people on their way here: this 
 reasonable request was refused at first, but better counsels 
 prevailed, and they were willing to give something to 
 appease the anger of the enemy, and sent back six captives, 
 two of whom were the wives prayed for. 
 
 [At last he makes a start on the llth of December with 
 the Arabs, who are bound eastwards for Ujiji. It is a motley 
 group, composed of Mohamad and his friends, a gang of 
 Unyamwezi hangers-on, and strings of wretched slaves yoked 
 together in their heavy slave-sticks. Some carry ivory, 
 others copper, or food for the march, whilst hope and fear, 
 misery and villainy, may be read off on the various faces 
 that pass in line out of this country, like a serpent dragging 
 its accursed folds away from the victim it has paralyzed with 
 its fangs.] 
 
 11/A. We marched four hours unmolested by the natives, 
 built a fence, and next day crossed the Lokinda River. 
 
 12M. The tiresome tale of slaves running away was 
 repeated again last night by two of Mpamri's making off, 
 though in the yoke, and they had been with him from boy- 
 hood. Not one good-looking slave-woman is now left of 
 Mohamad Bogharib's fresh slaves ; all the pretty ones obtain 
 favor by their address, beg to be unyoked, and then escape. 
 Four hours brought us to many villages of Chisabi and the 
 camp of Syde bin llabib in the middle of a set-in rain, which 
 marred the demonstration at meeting with his relative 
 Mpamari ; but the women braved it through, wet to the skin, 
 and danced and lullilooed with " draigled " petticoats with a 
 zeal worthy of a better cause, as the " penny-a-liners " say. 
 It is the custom for the trader who receives visitors to 
 slaughter goats and feed all his guests for at least two 
 days, nor was Syde wanting in this hospitality, though the 
 set-in rain continuing, we did not enjoy it as in fine weather. 
 
 15M. March two hours only to the range of Tamba. 
 
 ~LQth IStfA. A brother of Syde bin Habib died last night : 
 I had made up my mind to leave the whole party, but Syde
 
 210 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 said that Chisabi was not to be trusted, and the death of his 
 brother having happened, it would not be respectful to leave 
 him to bury his dead alone. Six of his slaves fled during the 
 night one, the keeper of the others. A Mobemba man, 
 who had been to the coast twice with him, is said to have 
 wished a woman who was in the chain, so he loosed five out, 
 and took her off; the others made clear heels of it, and now 
 that the grass is long and green, no one can trace their course. 
 
 Syde told me that the slaves would not have detained him, 
 but his brother's death did. We buried the youth, who has 
 been ill three months. Mpamari descended into the grave 
 with four others ; a broad cloth was held over them horizon- 
 tally, and a little fluctuation made, as if to fan those who 
 were depositing the body in the side excavation made at the 
 bottom: when they had finished they pulled in earth, and all 
 shoved it towards them till the grave was level. Mullam 
 then came and poured a little water into and over the grave, 
 mumbled a few prayers, at which Mpamari said aloud to me, 
 "Mullam does not let his voice be heard;" and Mullam 
 smiled to me, as if to say, " Loud enough for all I shall get : " 
 during the ceremony the women were all wailing loudly. 
 We went to the usual sitting-place, and shook hands with 
 Syde, as if receiving him back again into the company of the 
 living. 
 
 Syde told me previously to this event that he had fought 
 the people who killed his elder brother Salem bin Habib, 
 and would continue to fight them till all their country was 
 spoiled and a desolation : there is no forgiveness with Mos- 
 lems for bloodshed. He killed many, and took many slaves, 
 ivory, and copper : his tusks number over 200, many of large 
 size. 
 
 19ZA 20th. To Chisabi's village stockade, on the left 
 bank of the Lofunso, which flows in a marshy valley three 
 miles broad. Eight of Mohamad Bogharib's slaves fled by 
 night, one with his gun and wife ; a large party went in 
 search, but saw nothing of them. 
 
 22nd. We crossed the Lofunso River, wading three
 
 A PERILOUS CROSSING. 
 
 branches, the first of forty -seven yards, then the river itself, 
 fifty yards, and neck deep to men and women of ordinary 
 size. Two were swept away and drowned ; other two were 
 rescued by men leaping in and saving them, one of whom 
 was my man Susi. A crocodile bit one person badly, but 
 was struck, and driven off. Two slaves escaped by night ; 
 a woman loosed her husband's yoke from the tree, and got 
 clear off. 
 
 24tfA. Five sick people detain us to-day. 
 
 25th December, Christmas Day. We can buy nothing 
 except the very coarsest food not a goat or fowl while 
 Syde having plenty of copper, can get all the luxuries. We 
 marched past Mount Katanga, leaving it on our left to the 
 River Kapeta, and slaughtered a favorite kid to make a 
 Christmas dinner. A trading-party came up from Ujiji ; 
 they said that we were ten camps from Tanganyika. 
 
 26A. We marched up an ascent 2^- hours, and got on to 
 the top of one of the mountain ridges, which generally run 
 N. and S. There were no people on the height over which 
 we came, though the country is very fine green and gay 
 with varying shades of that color. 
 
 27tfA 28tk. Remain on Sunday, then march and cross 
 five rivulets about four yards wide and knee deep. 
 
 29tfA. We kept well on the ridge between two ranges of 
 hills ; then went down, and found a partially burned native 
 stockade, and lodged in it. 
 
 BOth. We now went due east, and crossed the river 
 Lokivwa, twelve yards wide, and very deep, with villages all 
 about. We ascended much as we went east. Very high 
 mountains appeared on the N. W. The woods dark green, 
 with large patches of a paler hue. 
 
 Blst. We reached the Lofuko yesterday in a pelting rain ; 
 not knowing that the camp with huts was near, I stopped 
 and put on a burnouse, got wet, and had no dry clothes. 
 Remain to-day to buy food. Scenery very lovely.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 TO UJIJI AND THE MANYUEMA COUNTRY. 
 
 /rpHE new year opened badly enough, and from letters he 
 I .L wrote subsequently concerning the illness which now 
 attacked him, we gather that it left evils behind from which 
 he never quite recovered. The following entries were made 
 after he regained sufficient strength, but we see how short 
 they necessarily were, and what labor it was to make the 
 jottings which relate to his progress towards the western 
 shore of Lake Tanganyika.) 
 
 1st January, 1869. I have been wet times without num- 
 ber, but the wetting of yesterday was once too often : I felt 
 very ill, but fearing that the Lofuko might flood, I resolved 
 to cross it. Cold up to the waist, which made me worse, but 
 I went on for 2^ hours E. 
 
 3rd. I marched one hour, but found I was too ill to go 
 further. Moving is always good in fever ; now I had a pain 
 in the chest, and rust of iron sputa : my lungs, my strongest 
 part, were thus affected. We crossed a rill and built sheds, 
 but I lost count of the days of the week and month after 
 this. Very ill all over. 
 
 About 1th January. Cannot walk : pneumonia of right 
 lung, and I cough all day and all night : sputa rust of iron 
 and bloody : distressing weakness. Ideas flow through the 
 mind with great rapidity and vividness, in groups of twos 
 and threes ; if I look at any piece of wood, the bark seems 
 covered over with figures and faces of men, and they remain, 
 though I look away and turn to the same spot again. I saw
 
 DANGEROUS ILLNESS. 213 
 
 myself lying dead in the way to Ujiji, and all the letters I 
 expected there useless. "When I think of my children and 
 friends, the lines ring through my head perpetually : 
 
 ' ' I shall look into your faces, 
 
 And listen to what you say, 
 And be often very near you 
 When you think I'm far away." 
 
 Mohamad Bogharib came up, and I have got a cupper, who 
 cupped my chest. 
 
 8th-$th. Mohamad Bogharib offered to carry me. I am 
 so weak I can scarcely speak. We are in Marungu proper 
 now a pretty but steeply-undulating country. This is the 
 first time in my life I have been carried in illness, but I can 
 not raise myself to the sitting posture. No food except a 
 little gruel. Great distress in coughing, all night long ; feet 
 swelled and sore. I am carried four hours each day on a 
 kitanda, or frame, like a cot ; carried eight hours one day. 
 Then sleep in a deep ravine. Next day six hours, over vol- 
 canic tufa ; very rough. We seem near the brim of Tangan- 
 yika. Sixteen days of illness. May be 23rd of January ; 
 it is 5th of lunar month. Country very undulating ," it is 
 perpetually up and down. Soil red, and rich knolls of every 
 size and form. Trees few. Carried eight hours yesterday to 
 a chief's village. Small, sharp thorns hurt the men's feet, 
 and so does the roughness of the ground. Mohamad Bogha- 
 rib is very kind to me in my extreme weakness ; but carriage 
 is painful ; head down and feet up alternates with feet down 
 and head up ; jolted up and down and sideways changing 
 shoulders involves a toss from one side to the other of the 
 Kitanda. The sun is vertical, blistering any part of the skin 
 exposed, and I try to shelter my face and head as well as I can 
 with a bunch of leaves, but it is dreadfully fatiguing in my 
 weakness. 
 
 I had a severe relapse after a very hot day. Mohamad 
 gave me medicines ; one was a sharp purgative, the others 
 intended for the cure of the cough. 
 
 February, 1869. Arrived at Tanganyika. Parra is
 
 214 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 the name of the land at the confluence of the River Lofuko : 
 Syde bin Habib had two or three large canoes at this place ; 
 our beads were nearly done, so I sent to Syde to say that all 
 the Arabs had served me except himself. Thani bin Suellim 
 by his letter was anxious to send a canoe as soon as I reached 
 the lake, and the only service I wanted of Syde was to inform 
 Thani, by one of his canoes, that I was here very ill, and if 
 I did not get to Ujiji, to get proper food and medicine, I 
 should die. Thani would send a canoe as soon as he knew 
 of my arrival I was sure : he replied that he too would serve 
 me, and sent some flour and two fowls : he would come in 
 two days and see what he could do as to canoes. 
 
 15th. The cough and chest pain diminished, and I feel 
 thankful ; my body is greatly emaciated. Syde carne to-day, 
 and is favorable to sending me up to Ujiji. Thanks to the 
 Great Father in Heaven. 
 
 24th. "We had remarkably little rain these two months. 
 
 26i(A. Embark, and sleep at Katonga after seven hours' 
 paddling. 
 
 27^A. We were to cross to Kabogo, a large mass of mount- 
 ains on the eastern side, but the wind was too high. 
 
 2nd March, 1869. Waves still high, so we got oif only 
 on 3rd, and came to M. Bogharib, who cooked bountifully. 
 
 6th. 5 P.M. Off to Toloka Bay three hours ; left at 6 
 A.M., and came in four hours, to Uguha, which is on the west 
 side of Tanganyika. 
 
 lih. Left at 6 P.M., and went on till two canoes ran on 
 rocks in the way to Kasanga islet. Rounded a point of land, 
 and made for Kasanga with a storm in our teeth ; fourteen 
 hours in all. "We were received by a young Arab Muscat, 
 who dined us sumptuously at noon. 
 
 8th. On Kasanga islet. Patience was never more needed 
 than now : I am near Ujiji, but the slaves who paddle are 
 tired, and no wonder ; they keep up a roaring song all through 
 their work, night and day. I expect to get medicine, food, 
 and milk at Ujiji, but dawdle and do nothing. I have a good 
 appetite, and sleep well ; these are the favorable symptoms ;
 
 UGTTIHT HEAD DRESSES.
 
 ARRIVAL AT UJIJI. 217 
 
 but am dreadfully thin, bowels irregular, and I have no medi- 
 cine. Sputa increases ; hope to hold out to Ujiji. Cough 
 worse. Hope to go to-morrow. 
 
 9th. Zahor is the name of our young Arab host. 
 
 lltfA. Go over to Kibize islet, VA. hour from Kasanga. 
 
 12ith. From Kibize islet to Kabogo River on east side of 
 lake, ten hours ; sleep there. Syde slipped past us at night, 
 but we made up to him in four hours next morning. 
 
 1.3th. At Rombole ; we sleep, then on. 
 
 [At last he reached the great Arab settlement at Ujiji, on 
 the eastern shore of Tanganyika. It was his first visit, but 
 he had arranged that supplies should be forwarded thither by 
 caravans bound inland from Zanzibar. Most unfortunately 
 his goods were made away with in all directions not only 
 on this, but on several other occasions. The disappointment 
 to a man shattered in health, and craving for letters and 
 stores, must have been severe indeed.] 
 
 14th. Go past Malagarazi River, and reach Ujiji in 3% 
 hours. Found Haji Thani's agent in charge of my remain- 
 ing goods. Medicines, wine, and cheese had been left at 
 Unyanyembe, thirteen days east of this. Milk not to be had, 
 as the cows had not calved, but a present of Assam tea from 
 Mr. Black had come from Calcutta, besides my own coffee 
 and a little sugar. I bought butter ; two large pots are sold 
 for two fathoms of blue calico, and four-year-old flour, with 
 which we made bread. I found great benefit from the tea 
 and coffee, and still more from flannel to the skin. 
 
 15th. Took account of all the goods left by the plunderer; 
 sixty-two out of eighty pieces of cloth (each of twenty-four 
 yards) were stolen, and most of my best beads. The road to 
 Unyanyembe is blocked up by a Mazitu or "Watuta war, so I 
 must wait till the Governor there gets an opportunity to send 
 them. The Musa sent with the buffaloes is a genuine speci- 
 men of the ill-conditioned, English-hating Arab. I was 
 accosted on arriving by, " You must give me five dollars a 
 month for all my time;" this though he had brought 
 nothing the buffaloes all died and did nothing but receive
 
 218 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 stolen goods. I tried to make use of him to go a mile every 
 second day for milk, but he shammed sickness so often on 
 that day I had to get another to go ; then he made a regular 
 practice of coming into my house, watching what my two 
 attendants were doing, and going about the village with dis- 
 torted statements against them. 
 
 I clothed him, but he tried to make bad blood between the 
 respectable Arab who supplied me with milk and myself, 
 telling him that I abused him, and then he would come back, 
 saying that he abused me ! I can account for his conduct 
 only by attributing it to that which we call ill-conditioned : 
 I had to expel him from the house. 
 
 I repaired a house to keep out the rain, and on the 23rd 
 moved into it. I gave our Kasanga host a cloth and blanket ; 
 he is ill of pneumonia of both lungs. 
 
 28tfA. Flannel to the skin and tea very beneficial in the 
 cure of my disease ; my cough has ceased, and I walk half a 
 mile. I am writing letters for home. 
 
 8th April, 1869. Visited Moene Mokaia, who sent me 
 two fowls and rice ; gave him two cloths. He added a sheep. 
 
 13A. Employed Suleyman to write notes to Governor of 
 Unyanyembe, Syde bin Salem Burashid, to make inquiries 
 about the theft of my goods, as I meant to apply to Syed 
 Majid, and wished to speak truly about his man Musa bin 
 Salum, the chief depredator. Wrote also to Thani for boat 
 and crew to go down Tanganyika. Syde bin Habib refused 
 to allow his men to carry my letters to the coast, as he sus- 
 pected that I would write about his doings in Rua. 
 
 27tfA. I have been busy writing letters home, and finished 
 forty-two, which in some measure will make up for my long 
 silence. The Ujijians are unwilling to carry my letters, 
 because, they say, Syed Majid will order the bearer to return 
 with others : he may say, " You know where he is, go back 
 to him," but I suspect they fear my exposure of their ways 
 more than anything else. 
 
 16^ May, 1869. Thani bin Suellim sent me a note yes- 
 terday to say that he would be here in two days, or say three ;
 
 THANI BIN SUELLIM. 219 
 
 he seems the most active of the Ujijians, and I trust will help 
 me to get a canoe and men. 
 
 Vlth. Syde bin Habib arrived to-day with his cargo of 
 copper and slaves. I have to change house again, and wish 
 I were away, now that I am getting stronger. Attendants 
 arrive from Parra or Mparra. 
 
 [The old slave- dealer, whom he met at Casembe's, and who 
 seems to have been set at liberty through Livingstone's instru- 
 mentality, arrives at Ujiji at last.] 
 
 liSth. Mohamad bin Saleh arrived to-day. He left this 
 when comparatively young, and is now well advanced in 
 years. 
 
 26tfA. Thani bin Suellim came from Unyanyembe on the 
 20th. He is a slave who has risen to freedom and influence ; 
 he has a disagreeable outward squint of the right eye, teeth 
 protruding from the averted lips, is light-colored, and of the 
 nervous type of African. He brought two light boxes from 
 Unyanyembe, and charged six fathoms for one and eight 
 fathoms for the other, though the carriage of both had been 
 paid for. at Zanzibar. When I paid him he tried to steal, and 
 succeeded with one cloth by slipping it into the hands of a 
 slave. I gave him two cloths and a double blanket as a pres- 
 ent. He discovered afterwards what he knew before, that 
 all had been injured by the wet on the way here, and sent 
 two back openly, which all saw to be an insult. He asked a 
 little coffee, and I gave a plateful ; and he even sent again 
 for more coffee after I had seen reason to resent his sending 
 back my present. I replied, " He won't send coffee back, for 
 I shall give him none." In revenge he sends round to warn 
 all the Ujijians against taking my letters to the coast ; this is 
 in accordance with their previous conduct, for, like the Kilwa 
 people on the road to Nyassa, they have refused to carry my 
 correspondence. 
 
 This is a den of the worst kind of slave-traders ; those 
 whom I met in Urungu and Itawa were gentlemen slavers : 
 the Ujiji slavers, like the Kilwa and Portuguese, are the 
 vilest of the vile. It is not a trade, but a system of consec-
 
 220 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 utive murders; they go to plunder and kidnap, and every 
 trading trip is nothing but a foray. Moene Mokaia, the 
 headman of this place, sent canoes through to Nzige, and his 
 people, feeling their prowess among men ignorant of guns, 
 made a regular assault, but were repulsed, and the whole, 
 twenty in number, were killed. Moene Mokaia is now 
 negotiating with Syde bin Habib to go and revenge this, 
 for so much ivory, and all he can get besides. 
 
 29A. Many people went off to Unyanyembe, and their 
 houses were untenanted ; I wished one, as I was in a lean-to 
 of Zahor's, but the two headmen tried to secure the rent for 
 themselves, and were defeated by Mohamad bin Saleh. I 
 took my packet of letters to Thani, and gave two cloths 
 and four bunches of beads to the man who was to take them 
 to Unyanyembe; an hour afterwards, letters, cloths, and 
 beads were returned : Thani said he was afraid of English 
 letters ; he did not know what was inside. I had sewed 
 them up in a piece of canvas, that was suspicious, and he 
 would call all the great men of Ujiji and ask them if it would 
 be safe to take them ; if they assented, he would call for the 
 letters, if not he would not send them. I told Mohamad bin 
 Saleh, and he said to Thani that he and I were men of the 
 Government, and orders had come from Syed Majid to treat 
 me with all respect: was this conduct respectful? Thani 
 then sent for the packet, but whether it will reach Zanzibar I 
 am doubtful. I gave the rent to the owner of the house and 
 went into it on 31st May. They are nearly all miserable 
 Suaheli at Ujiji, and have neither the manners nor the sense 
 of Arabs. 
 
 1st June, 1869. I am thankful to feel getting strong 
 again, and wish to go down Tanganyika, but cannot get men : 
 two months must elapse ere we can face the long grass and 
 superabundant water in the way to Manyuema. 
 
 1th. Mohamad Bogharib goes in a month to Manyuema, 
 but if matters turn out as I wish, I may explore this Tan- 
 ganyika line first. 
 
 22nd. I have come to the conclusion that it will be better
 
 WESTWARD WITH ARABS. 221 
 
 for me to go to Manyuema about a fortnight hence, and, if 
 possible, trace down the western arm of the Nile to the 
 north if this arm is indeed that of the Nile, and not of the 
 Congo. Nobody here knows anything about it, or, indeed, 
 about the eastern or Tanganyika line either ; they all confess 
 that they have but one question in their minds in going any- 
 where : they ask for ivory and for nothing else, and each trip 
 ends as a foray. The Manyuema are said to be friendly 
 where they have not been attacked by Arabs : a great chief 
 is reported as living on a large river flowing northwards ; I 
 hope to make my way to him, and I feel exhilarated at the 
 thought of getting among people not spoiled by contact with 
 Arab traders. 
 
 2Sth. I propose to start for Manyuema on the 3rd July. 
 
 10th July, 1869. After a great deal of delay and trouble 
 about a canoe, we got one from Habee for ten dotis or forty 
 yards of calico, and a doti or four yards to each of nine pad- 
 dlers to bring the vessel back. 
 
 [It is necessary to say a few words here, so unostentatiously 
 does Livingstone introduce this new series of explorations to 
 the reader. The Manyuema country, for which he set out 
 on the 12th July, 1869, was hitherto unknown. As we fol- 
 low him we shall see that in almost every respect both the 
 face of the country and the people differ from other regions 
 lying nearer to the East Coast. It appears that the Arabs 
 had an inkling of the vast quantities of ivory which might 
 be procured there, and Livingstone went into the new field 
 with the foremost of those hordes of Ujijian traders.] 
 
 12A. Left at 1:30 A.M., and pulled 7K hours to the left 
 bank of the Malagarazi River. 
 
 ~L3th. Off at 3:15 A.M., and in five hours reached Kabogo 
 River ; from this point the crossing is always accomplished : 
 it is about thirty miles broad. Tried to get off at 6 P.M., but 
 after two miles the south wind blew, and as it is a dangerous 
 wind and the usual one in storms, the men insisted on coming 
 back, for the wind, having free scope along the entire south- 
 ern length of Tanganyika, raises waves perilous to their
 
 222 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 heavy craft ; after this the clouds cleared all away, and the 
 wind died off too ; the full moon shone brightly, and this is 
 usually accompanied by calm weather here. Storms occur 
 at new moon most frequently. 
 
 lth. People awaking in fright utter most unearthly yells, 
 and they are joined in them by all who sleep near. The first 
 imagines himself seized by a wild beast, the rest roar because 
 they hear him doing it : this indicates the extreme of help- 
 less terror. 
 
 15th. After pulling all night we arrived at some islands 
 and cooked breakfast ; then we went on to Kasenge islet on 
 their south, and came up to Mohamad Bogharib, who had 
 come from Tongwe, and intended to go to Manyuema. "We 
 cross over to the mainland, that is, to the western shore of 
 the lake, about 300 yards off, to begin our journey on the 
 21st. Lunars on 20th. Delay to prepare food for journey. 
 Lunars again 22nd. 
 
 1st August, 1869. Mohamad killed a kid as a sort of 
 sacrifice, and they pray to Hadrajee before eating it. The 
 cookery is of their very best, and I always get a share ; I tell 
 them that I like the cookery, but not the prayers, and it is 
 taken in good part. 
 
 2nd. "We embarked from the islet and got over to the 
 mainland, and slept in a hooked-thorn copse. 
 
 3rd. Marched BH hours south, along Tanganyika, in a 
 very undulating country ; very fatiguing in my weakness. 
 Passed many screw-palms, and slept at Lobamba village. 
 
 &th. A relative of Kasanga engaged to act as our guide, 
 so we remained waiting 'for him, and employed a Banyam- 
 wezi smith to make copper balls with some bars of that metal 
 presented by Syde bin Habib. 
 
 'Ith. The guide having arrived, we marched 2M hours 
 west and crossed the River Logumba, about forty yards broad 
 and knee deep, with a rapid current between deep-cut banks. 
 
 Sth-$tfir-lQth August. "Westwards to Makhato's village, 
 and met a company of natives beating a drum as they came 
 near ; this is the peace signal ; if war is meant the attack is
 
 HINTS TO HUNTERS. 223 
 
 quiet and stealthy. It is cold at night, but dry, and the 
 people sleep with only a fence at their heads, but I have a 
 shed built at every camp as a protection for the loads, and 
 sleep in it. Any ascent, though gentle, makes me blow since 
 the attack of pneumonia ; if it is inclined to an angle of 45, 
 100 or 150 yards make me stop to pant in distress. 
 
 \\th. Came to a village of Ba Rua, surrounded by hills. 
 
 12th-13th. At villages of Mekheto. Guha people. Re- 
 main to buy and prepare food, and because many are sick. 
 i. West and by north through much forest. 
 
 st. Went on to the River Loungwa, which has 
 worn for itself a rut in new red sandstone twenty feet deep, 
 and only three or four feet wide at the lips. 
 
 25tfA. We rest because all are tired ; traveling at this season 
 is excessively fatiguing. 
 
 Blst. Course N.W., among Palmyras and Hyphene Palms, 
 and many villages swarming with people. On asking the 
 name of a mountain on our right I got three names for it 
 Kaloba, Chingedi, and Kihomba, a fair specimen of the 
 superabundance of names in this country ! 
 
 1st September, 1869. West in flat forest, then go on to 
 Kunde's villages. Kunde is an old man, without dignity or 
 honor ; he came to beg, but offered nothing. 
 
 2nd. We remained at Katamba to hunt buffaloes and rest, 
 as I am still weak. 
 
 8th. Across five rivers and through many villages. On 
 to village of Karungamagao. 
 
 $th. Best again to shoot meat, as elephants and buffaloes 
 are very abundant: the Suaheli think that adultery is an 
 obstacle to success in killing this animal : no harm can hap- 
 pen to him who is faithful to his wife, and has the proper 
 charms inserted under the skin of his forearms. 
 
 12A. The days are sultry and smoking. We came to 
 some villages of Pyana-mosinde ; the population prodigiously 
 large. A sword was left at the camp, and at once picked up ; 
 though the man was traced to a village it was refused, till he 
 accidentally cut his foot with it, and became afraid that worse 
 would follow ; elsewhere it would have been given up at once.
 
 224: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 . The people seized three slaves who lagged behind, 
 but, hearing a gun fired at guinea-fowls, let them go. 
 
 1-yA. Up and down hills perpetually. "We went down 
 into some deep dells, filled with gigantic trees, and I meas- 
 ured one twenty feet in circumference, and sixty or seventy 
 feet high to the first branches ; others seemed fit to be ships'. 
 spars. Large lichens covered many, and numerous new plants 
 appeared on the ground. 
 
 15th. Met Dugumbe carrying 18,000 Ibs. of ivory, pur- 
 chased in this new field very cheaply, because no traders had 
 ever gone into the country beyond Bambarre, or Moenekuss's 
 district before. We are now in the large bend of the Lua- 
 laba. 
 
 16th. To Kasangangazi's. We now came to the first 
 palm-oil trees in our way since we left Tanganyika. They 
 had evidently been planted at villages. 
 
 IftA. Remain to buy food at Kasanga's, and rest the 
 carriers. The country is full of palm-oil palms, and very 
 beautiful. Our people are all afraid to go out of sight of the 
 camp for necessary purposes, lest the Manyuema should kill 
 them. Here was the barrier to traders going north, for the 
 very people among whom we now are, murdered any one 
 carrying a tusk, till last year, when Moene-mokaia, or Ka- 
 tomba, got into friendship with Moenekuss, who protected 
 his people, and always behaved in a generous, sensible man- 
 ner. Dilongo, now a chief here, came to visit us : his elder 
 brother died, and he was elected ; he does not wash in con- 
 sequence, and is very dirty. The people have their bodies 
 tattooed with new and full moons, stars, crocodiles, and 
 Egyptian gardens. 
 
 20A. Up to a broad range of high mountains of light 
 gray granite; there are deep dells on the top filled with 
 gigantic trees, and having running rills in them. Some trees 
 appear with enormous roots, buttresses in fact like mangroves 
 in the coast swamps, six feet high at the trunk, and flattened 
 from side to side to about three inches in diameter. There 
 are many villages dotted over the slopes which we climbed ;
 
 THE MANYUEMA HILLS. 225 
 
 one had been destroyed, and revealed the hard clay walls and 
 square forms of Manyuema houses. Our path lay partly 
 along a ridge, with a deep valley on each side : one on the 
 left had a valley filled with primeval forests, into which 
 elephants when wounded escape completely. The forest was 
 a dense mass, without a bit of ground to be seen except a 
 patch on the S.W. ; the bottom of this great valley was 
 2,000 feet below us, then ranges of mountains with villages 
 on their bases rose as far as they could reach. On our right 
 there was another deep but narrow gorge, and mountains 
 much higher than on our ridge close adjacent. Our ridge 
 looked like a glacier, and it wound from side to side, and 
 took us to the edge of deep precipices, first on the right, then 
 on the left, till down below we came to the villages of Chief 
 Monandenda. The houses here are all well filled with fire- 
 wood on shelves, and each has a bed on a raised platform in 
 an inner room. 
 
 The paths are very skilfully placed on the tops of the ridges 
 of hills, and all gullies are avoided. If the highest level 
 were not in general made the ground for passing through 
 the country the distances would at least be doubled, and the 
 fatigue greatly increased. The paths seem to have been used 
 for ages: they are worn deep on the heights; and in hollows 
 a little mound risea on each side, formed by the feet tossing 
 a little soil on one side. 
 
 %lst. Cross five or six rivulets, and as many villages, some 
 burned and deserted, or inhabited. Very many people come 
 running to see the strangers. Gigantic trees all about the 
 villages. Arrive at Bambarre, or Moenekuss. 
 
 About eighty hours of actual traveling, say at 2' per 
 hour = say 160' or 140'. Westing from 3rd August to 21st 
 September. My strength increased as I persevered. 
 
 %2nd. Moenekuss died lately, and left his two sons to fill 
 his place. Moenembagg is the elder of the two, and the 
 most sensible, and the spokesman on all important occasions, 
 but his younger brother, Moenemgoi, is the chief, the center 
 of authority. They showed symptoms of suspicion, and
 
 226 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Mohamad performed the ceremony of mixing blood, which 
 is simply making a small incision on the forearm of each 
 person, and then mixing the bloods, and making declarations 
 of friendship. Moenembagg said, "Your people must not 
 steal, we never do," which is true : blood in a small quantity- 
 was then conveyed from one to the other by a fig-leaf : " No 
 stealing of fowls or of men," said the chief: "Catch the 
 thief and bring him to me, one who steals a person is a pig," 
 said Mohamad. Stealing, however, began on our side, a slave 
 purloining a fowl, so they had good reason to enjoin honesty 
 on us ! They think that we have come to kill them : we 
 light on them as if from another world : no letters come to 
 tell who we are, or what we want. We cannot conceive their 
 state of isolation and helplessness, with nothing to trust to 
 but their charms and idols both being bits of wood. I got 
 a large beetle hung up before an idol in the idol house of a 
 deserted and burned village ; the guardian was there, but the 
 village destroyed. 
 
 I presented the two brothers with two table-cloths, four 
 bunches of beads, and one string of neck-beads ; they were 
 well satisfied. 
 
 I had a house built for me because the village huts are 
 inconvenient, low in roof, and low doorways ; the men build 
 them, and help to cultivate the soil, but the women have to 
 keep them well filled with fire-wood and supplied with water. 
 They carry the wood, and almost everything else, in large 
 baskets, hung to the shoulders, like the Edinburgh fishwives. 
 A man made a long prayer to Mulungu, last night after dark, 
 for rain. 
 
 The sons of Moenekuss have but little of their father's 
 power, but they try to behave to strangers as he did. All 
 our people are in terror of the Manyema, or Manyuema, 
 man-eating fame : a woman's child had crept into a quiet 
 corner of the hut to eat a banana she could not find him, 
 and at once concluded that the Manyuema had kidnapped 
 him to eat him, and with a yell she ran through the eamp 
 and screamed at the top of her shrill voice, " Oh, the Man-
 
 LIGHT IN DARKNESS. 227 
 
 yuema have stolen my child to make meat of him ! Oh, my 
 child eaten oh, oh ! " 
 
 26t/i-2Sth. A Lunda slave-girl was sent off to be sold for 
 a tusk, but the Manyuema don't want slaves, as we are told 
 in Lunda, for they are generally thieves, and otherwise bad 
 characters. Small-pox comes every three or four years, and 
 kills many of the people. A soko alive was believed to be a 
 good charm for rain ; so one was caught, and the captor had 
 the ends of two fingers and toes bitten off. The soko or 
 gorilla always tries to bite off these parts, and has been 
 known to overpower a young man and leave him without the 
 ends of fingers and toes. I saw the nest of one : it is a poor 
 contrivance. 
 
 5th October, 1869. An elephant was killed, and the entire 
 population went off to get meat, which was given freely at 
 first; but after it was known how eagerly the Manyuema 
 sought it, six or eight goats were demanded for a carcass, and 
 given. 
 
 9th. The rite of circumcision is general among all the 
 Manyuema ; it is performed on the young. If a headman's 
 son is to be operated on, it is tried on a slave first ; certain 
 times of the year are unpropitious, as during a drought, for 
 instance ; but having by this experiment ascertained the 
 proper time, they go into the forest, beat drums, and feast as 
 elsewhere: contrary to all African custom they are not 
 ashamed to speak about the rite, even before women. 
 
 Two very fine young men came to visit me to-day. After 
 putting several preparatory inquiries as to where our country 
 lay, &c., they asked whether people died with us, and where 
 they went to after death. " Who kills them ? " " Have you 
 no charm against death ? " It is not necessary to answer such 
 questions save in a land never visited by strangers. Both 
 had the " organs of intelligence " largely developed. I told 
 them that we prayed to the Great Father, "Mulungu," and 
 He hears us all : they thought this to be natural. 
 
 15A. Fever better, and thankful. Yery cold and rainy. 
 
 l&th. Our Hassani returned from Moene Kirumbo's;
 
 228 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 then one of Dugumbe's party (also called Hassani) seized ten 
 goats and ten doves before leaving, though great kindness 
 had been shown : this is genuine Suaheli or Nigger-Moslem 
 tactics ; four of his people were killed in revenge. 
 
 A whole regiment of Soldier ants in my hut were put into 
 a panic by a detachment of Driver ants, called Sirufu. The 
 Chungu, or black soldiers, rushed out with their eggs and 
 young, putting them down and running for more. A dozen 
 Sirufu pitched on one Chungu and killed him. The Chungu 
 made new quarters for themselves. "When the white ants 
 cast off their colony of winged emigrants, a canopy is erected 
 like an umbrella over the anthill. As soon as the ants fly 
 against the roof they tumble down in a shower, and their 
 wings instantly become detached from their bodies. They 
 are then helpless, and are swept up in baskets to be fried, 
 when they make a very palatable food. 
 
 24:th-25th. Making copper rings, as these are highly prized 
 by Manyuema. Mohamad's Tembe fell. It had been begun 
 on an unlucky day, the 26th of the moon ; and on another 
 occasion on the same day, he had fifty slaves swept away by 
 a sudden flood of a dry river in the Obena country : they are 
 great observers of lucky and unlucky days.
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 LIFE AMONG THE MANYUEMAS. 
 
 'YTOVEMBEK IST, 1869. Being now well rested, I re- 
 JL i solved to go west to Lualaba and buy a canoe for its 
 exploration. Our course was west and south-west, through a 
 country surpassingly beautiful, mountainous, and villages 
 perched on the talus of each great mass for the sake of quick 
 drainage. The streets often run east and west, in order that 
 the bright, blazing sun may lick up the moisture quickly from 
 off them. The dwelling houses are generally in line, with 
 public meeting houses at each end, opposite the middle of 
 the street, the roofs are low, but well thatched with a leaf 
 resembling the banana leaf, but more tough ; it seems from 
 its fruit to be a species of Euphorbia. The leaf-stack has a 
 notch made in it of two or three inches lengthways, and this 
 hooks on to the rafters, which are often of the leaf-stalks of 
 palms, split up so as to be thin ; the water runs quickly off 
 this roof, and the walls, which are of well-beaten clay, are 
 screened from the weather. Inside, the dwellings are clean 
 and comfortable, and before the Arabs came bugs were un- 
 known as I have before observed, one may know where 
 these people have come by the presence or absence of these 
 nasty vermin : the human tick, which infests all Arab and 
 Suaheli houses, is to the Manyuema unknown. 
 
 In some cases, where the south-east rains are abundant, the 
 Manyuema place the back side of the houses to this quarter, 
 and prolong the low roof down, so that the rain does not 
 reach the walls. These clay walls stand for ages, and men
 
 230 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 often return to the villages they left in infancy and build 
 again the portions that many rains have washed away. The 
 country generally is of clayey soil, and suitable for building. 
 Each housewife has from twenty-five to thirty earthen pots 
 slung to the ceiling by very neat cord-swinging tressels ; and 
 often as many neatly made baskets hung up in the same 
 fashion, and much firewood. 
 
 5^A. In going we crossed the River Luela, of twenty yards 
 in width, five times, in a dense dripping forest. The men 
 of one village always refused to accompany us to the next 
 set of hamlets, " They were at war, and afraid of being 
 killed and eaten." They often came five or six miles through 
 the forests that separate the districts, but when we drew near 
 to the cleared spaces cultivated by their enemies they parted 
 civilly, and invited us to come the same way back, and they 
 would sell us all the food we required. 
 
 The Manyuema country is all surpassingly beautiful. 
 Palms crown the highest heights of the mountains, and their 
 gracefully bended fronds wave beautifully in the wind ; and 
 the forests, usually about five miles broad, between groups of 
 villages, are indescribable. Climbers of cable size in great 
 numbers are hung among the gigantic trees, many unknown 
 wild fruits abound, some the size of a child's head, and 
 strange birds and monkeys are everywhere. The soil is 
 excessively rich, and the people, although isolated by old 
 feuds that are never settled, cultivate -largely. They have 
 selected a kind of maize that bends its fruit-stalk round into 
 a hook, and hedges some eighteen feet high are made by 
 inserting poles, which sprout like Robinson Crusoe's hedge, 
 and never decay. Lines of climbing plants are tied so as to 
 go along from pole to pole, and the maize cobs are suspended 
 to these by their own hooked fruit-stalk. As the corn-cob is 
 forming, the hook is turned round, so that the fruit-leaves of 
 
 O' ' 
 
 it hang down and form a thatch for the grain beneath, or 
 inside it. This upright granary forms a solid-looking wall 
 round the villages, and the people are not stingy, but take 
 down maize and hand it to the men freely.
 
 CURIOSITY OF THE NATIVES. 231 
 
 The women are very naked. They bring loads of pro- 
 visions to sell, through the rain, and are eager traders for 
 beads. Plantains, cassava, and maize, are the chief food. 
 The first rains had now begun, and the white ants took the 
 hint to swarm and colonize. 
 
 6th-8th. We came to many large villages, and were 
 variously treated ; one headman presented me with a parrot, 
 and on my declining it, gave it to one of my people ; some 
 ordered us off, but were coaxed to allow us to remain over 
 night. They have no restraint ; some came and pushed off 
 the door of my hut with a stick while I was resting, as we 
 should do with a wild-beast cage. 
 
 Though reasonably willing to gratify curiosity, it becomes 
 tiresome to be the victim of unlimited staring by the ugly, 
 as well as by the good-looking. I can bear the women, but 
 ugly males are uninteresting, and it is as much as I can stand 
 when a crowd will follow me wherever I move. They have 
 heard of Dugumbe Hassani's deeds, and are evidently suspi- 
 cious of our intentions : they say, " If you have food at home, 
 why come so far and spend your beads to buy it here ? " If 
 it is replied, on the strength of some of Mohamad's people 
 being present, " We want to buy ivory too," not knowing its 
 value they think that this is a mere subterfuge to plunder 
 them. Much palm-wine to-day at different parts made them 
 incapable of reasoning further; they seemed inclined to 
 fight, but after a great deal of talk we departed without 
 collision. 
 
 9th. We came to villages where all were civil, but after- 
 wards arrived where there were other palm-trees and palm- 
 toddy, and people low and disagreeable in consequence. 
 The mountains all around are grand, and tree-covered. I 
 saw a man with two great great toes : the double toe is usually 
 a little one. 
 
 \\th. We had heard that the Manyuema were eager to 
 buy slaves, but that meant females only to make wives of 
 them: they prefer goats to men. Mohamad had bought 
 slaves in Lunda in order to get ivory from these Manyuema,
 
 232 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 but inquiry here and elsewhere brought it out plainly that 
 they would rather let the ivory lie unused or rot than invest 
 in male slaves, who are generally criminals at least in Lunda. 
 I advised my friend to desist from buying slaves who would 
 all " eat off their own heads," but he knew better than to 
 buy copper, and on our return he acknowledged that I was 
 right. 
 
 15th. We came into a country where Dugumbe' s slaves 
 had maltreated the people greatly, and they looked on us as 
 of the same tribe, arid we had much trouble in consequence. 
 The country is swarming with villages. Hassani of Du- 
 gumbe got the chief into debt, and then robbed him of ten 
 men and ten goats to clear off the debt : the Dutch did the 
 same in the south of Africa. 
 
 Vlth. Copious rains brought us to a halt at Muana Ba- 
 lange's, on the banks of the Luamo River. 
 
 20^A-25A. We were now only about ten miles from the 
 confluence of the Luamo and Lualaba, but all the people had 
 been plundered, and some killed by the slaves of Dugumbe. 
 The Luamo is here some 200 yards broad, and deep ; the 
 chiefs everywhere were begged to refuse us a passage. The 
 women were particularly outspoken in asserting our identity 
 with the cruel strangers, and when one lady was asked in the 
 midst of her vociferation just to look if I were the same color 
 with Dugumbe, she replied, with a bitter little laugh, " Then 
 you must be his father ! " 
 
 It was of no use to try to buy a canoe, for all were our 
 enemies. It was now the rainy season, and I had to move 
 with great caution. The worst our enemies did, after trying 
 to get up a war in vain, was to collect, as we went by, in force, 
 fully armed with their large spears and huge wooden shields, 
 and show us out of their districts. All are kind except those 
 who have been abused by the Arab slavers. While waiting 
 at Luamo a man, whom we sent over to buy food, got into a 
 panic and fled he knew not whither ; all concluded that he 
 had been murdered, but some Manyuema whom we had never 
 seen found him, fed him, and brought him home unscathed :
 
 AFRICAN WIRE FENCES. 233 
 
 I was very glad that no collision had taken place. "We re- 
 turned to Bambarre 19th December, 1869. 
 
 20tfA December. While we were away a large horde of 
 Ujijians came to Bambarre, all eager to reach the cheap ivory, 
 of which a rumor had spread far and wide ; they numbered 
 500 guns, and invited Mohamad to go with them, but he pre- 
 ferred waiting for my return from the west. We now resolved 
 to go due north ; he to buy ivory, and I to reach another part 
 of the Lualaba and buy a canoe. 
 
 Wherever the dense primeval forest had been cleared off 
 by man, gigantic grasses usurp the clearances. None of the 
 sylvan vegetation can stand the annual grass-burnings except 
 a species of Bauhinia, and occasionally a large tree which 
 sends out new wood below the burned places. The parrots 
 build thereon, and the men make a stair up 150 feet by tying 
 climbing plants (called Binayoba) around, at about four feet 
 distance, as steps : near the confluence of the Luamo, men 
 build huts on this same species of tree for safety against the 
 arrows of their enemies. 
 
 %lst. The strong, thick grass of the clearances dries down 
 to the roots at the surface of the soil, and tire does it no harm. 
 Though a few of the great, old, burly giants brave the fires, 
 none of the climbers do : they disappear, but the plants 
 themselves are brought out of the forests and ranged along 
 the plantations like wire fences to keep wild beasts off; the 
 poles of these vegetable wire hedges often take root, as also 
 those in stages for maize. 
 
 22no-24:A. Mohamad presented a goat to be eaten on our 
 Christinas. I got large copper bracelets made of my copper 
 by Manyuema smiths, for they are considered very valuable, 
 and have driven iron bracelets quite out of fashion. 
 
 25A. We start immediately after Christmas : I must try 
 with all my might to finish my exploration before next 
 Christmas. 
 
 26<A. I get fever severely, and was down all day, but we 
 march, as I have always found that moving is the best 
 remedy for fever : I have, however, no medicine whatever.
 
 234: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 . Away to Monangoi's village. A man passed us, 
 bearing a human finger wrapped in a leaf; it was to be used 
 as a charm, and belonged to a man killed in revenge : the 
 Arabs all took this as clear evidence of cannibalism : I hesi- 
 tated, however, to believe it. 
 
 29A-31s. Heavy rains. The Luamo is called the Luasse 
 above this. We crossed in canoes. 
 
 1st January, 1870. May the Almighty help me to finish 
 the work in hand, and retire through the Basango before the 
 year is out. Thanks for all last year's loving kindness. 
 
 Our course was due north, with the Luasse flowing in a 
 gently undulating, green country on our right, and rounded 
 mountains in Mbongo's country on our left. 
 
 2nd. Rested a day at Mbongo's, as the people were honest. 
 
 3rd. Reached a village at the edge of a great forest, 
 where the people were excited and uproarious, but not ill- 
 bred; they ran alongside the path with us, shouting and 
 making energetic remarks to each other about us. A newly- 
 married couple stood in a village where we stopped to inquire 
 the way, with arms around each other very lovingly, and no 
 one joked or poked fun at them. We marched five hours 
 through forest, and crossed three rivulets and much stagnant 
 water which the sun by the few rays he darts in cannot evap- 
 orate. 
 
 4-th. The villagers we passed were civil, but, like noisy 
 children, all talked and gazed. When surrounded by 300 or 
 400, some who have not been accustomed to the ways of wild 
 men think that a fight is imminent ; but, poor things, no 
 attack is thought of, if it does not begin on our side. Many 
 of Mohamad's people were dreadfully afraid of being killed 
 and eaten ; one man out in search of ivory seemed to have 
 lost sight of his companions, for they saw him running with 
 all his might to a forest with no path in it ; he was searched 
 for, for several days, and was given up as a murdered man, a 
 victim of the cannibal Manyuema ! On the seventh day 
 after he lost his head, he was led into camp by a headman, 
 who not only found him wandering, but fed and lodged and 
 ^restored him to his people.
 
 LUXURIANT VEGETATION. 235 
 
 5t7i-1th. Wettings by rain and grass overhanging our 
 paths, with bad water, brought on choleraic symptoms ; and 
 opium from Mohamad had no effect in stopping it : he, too, 
 had rheumatism. On suspecting the water as the cause, I 
 had all I used boiled, and this was effectual, but I was greatly 
 reduced in flesh, and so were many of our party. 
 
 We proceeded nearly due north, through wilderness and 
 many villages and running rills ; the paths are often left to 
 be choked up by the overbearing vegetation, and then the 
 course of the rill is adopted as the only clear passage ; it has 
 also this advantage, it prevents footmarks being followed by 
 enemies : in fact the object is always to make approaches to 
 human dwellings as difficult as possible, even the hedges 
 around villages sprout out and grow a living fence, and this 
 is covered by a great mass of a species of calabash with its 
 broad leaves, so that nothing appears of the fence outside. 
 
 \\th. The people are civil, but uproarious from the excite- 
 ment of having never seen strangers before : all visitors from 
 a distance came with their large wooden shields ; many of 
 the men are handsome and tall, but the women are plainer 
 than at Bambarre. 
 
 14th. The Muabe palm had taken possession of a broad 
 valley, and the leaf-stalks, as thick as a strong man's arm and 
 20 feet long, had fallen off and blocked up all passage except 
 by one path made and mixed up by the feet of buffaloes and 
 elephants. In places like this the leg goes into elephants' 
 holes up to the thigh, and it is grievous ; three hours of this 
 slough tired the strongest : a brown stream ran through the 
 center, waist deep, and washed off a little of the adhesive 
 mud. Our path now lay through a river covered with tika- 
 tika, a living vegetable bridge made by a species of glossy- 
 leafed grass which felts itself into a mat capable of bearing a 
 man's weight, but it bends in a foot or fifteen inches every 
 step : a stick six feet long could not reach the bottom in cer- 
 tain holes we passed. The lotus, or sacred lily, which grows 
 in nearly all the shallow waters of this country, sometimes 
 spreads its broad leaves over the bridge so as to lead careless
 
 236 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 observers to think that it is the bridge-builder, but the grass 
 mentioned is the real agent. 
 
 15th. Choleraic purging again came on till all the water 
 used was boiled, but I was laid up by sheer weakness near 
 the hill Chanza. 
 
 20tfA-21srf.^ "Weakness and illness goes on because we get 
 wet so often ; the whole party suffers, and they say that they 
 will never come here again. 
 
 27M-30/A. Rest from sickness in camp. The country is 
 indescribable from rank jungle of grass, but the rounded hills 
 are still pretty ; an elephant alone can pass through it these 
 are his headquarters. 
 
 "We came to a village among fine gardens of maize, bananas, 
 ground-nuts, and cassava, but the villagers said, " Go on to 
 next village;" and this meant, ""We don't want you here." 
 The main body of Mohamad's people was about three miles 
 before us, but I was so weak I sat down in the next hamlet 
 and asked for a hut to rest in. A woman with leprous hands 
 gave me hers, a nice, clean one, and very heavy rain came 
 on : of her own accord she prepared dumplings of green 
 maize, pounded and boiled, which are sweet, for she said that 
 she saw I was hungry. It was excessive weakness from 
 purging, and seeing that I did not eat for fear of the leprosy, 
 she kindly pressed me : " Eat, you are weak only from hunger ; 
 this will strengthen you." I put it out of her sight, and 
 blessed her motherly heart. 
 
 I had ere this come to the conclusion that I ought not to 
 risk myself further in the rains in my present weakness, for 
 it may result in something worse, as in Marungu and Liernba. 
 
 The horde mentioned as having passed Bambarre was now 
 somewhere in our vicinity, and it was impossible to ascertain 
 from the Manyuema where the Lualaba lay. 
 
 In going north on 1st February we came to some of this 
 horde belonging to Katomba or Moenemokaia, who stated 
 that the leader was anxious for advice as to crossing Lualaba 
 and future movements. 
 
 2nd February^ 1870. We now climb over the bold hills
 
 A MUSICAL FROG. 37 
 
 Bininango, and turn south-west towards Katomba to take 
 counsel : he knows more than any one else about the country, 
 and his people being now scattered everywhere seeking ivory, 
 I do not relish their company. 
 
 3rd. Caught in a drenching rain, which made me fain to 
 sit, exhausted as I was, under an umbrella for an hour trying 
 to keep the trunk dry. As I sat in the rain a little tree-frog, 
 about half an inch long, leaped on to a grassy leaf, and began 
 a tune as loud as that of many birds, and very sweet ; it was 
 surprising to hear so much music out of so small a musician. 
 I drank some rain-water, as I felt faint ; in the paths it is 
 now calf deep. I crossed a hundred yards of slush, waist 
 deep in mid channel, and full of holes made by elephants' 
 feet, the path hedged in by reedy grass, often intertwined 
 and very tripping. I stripped off my clothes on reaching 
 my hut in a village, and a fire during night nearly dried them. 
 At the same time I rubbed my legs with palm oil, and in the 
 morning had a delicious breakfast of sour goat's milk and 
 porridge. 
 
 5^. The drenching told on me sorely, and it was repeated 
 after we had crossed the good-sized rivulets Mulunkula and 
 many villages, and I lay on an enormous boulder under a 
 Muabe palm, and slept during the worst of the pelting. I 
 was seven days southing to Mamohela, Katomba's camp, and 
 quite knocked up and exhausted. I went into winter quar- 
 ters on 7th February, 1870. 
 
 7#A. This was the camp of the headman of the ivory 
 horde now away for ivory. Katomba, as Moenemokaia is 
 called, was now all kindness. We were away from his 
 Ujijian associates, and he seemed to follow his natural bent 
 without fear of the other slave-traders, who all hate to see 
 me as a spy on their proceedings. Rest, shelter, and boiling 
 all the water I used, and above all the new species of potato 
 called Nyumbo, much famed among the natives as restorative, 
 soon put me all to rights. Katomba supplied me liberally 
 with nyumbo ; and, but for a slightly medicinal taste, which 
 is got rid of by boiling in two waters, this vegetable would 
 be equal to English potatoes.
 
 238 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 I was too ill to go through mud waist deep, so I 
 allowed Mohamad (who was suffering much) to go away alone 
 in search of ivory. 
 
 1st March, 1870. Visited my Arab friends in their camp 
 for the first time to-day. This is Kasessa's country. "Wood, 
 water, and grass, the requisites of a camp, abound, and the 
 Manyuema bring large supplies of food every day ; forty 
 large baskets of maize for a goat ; fowls and bananas and 
 nyumbo very cheap. 
 
 25th. Iron bracelets are the common medium of exchange, 
 and coarse beads and cowries : for a copper bracelet three 
 large fowls are given, and three and a half baskets of maize; 
 one basket three feet high is a woman's load, and they are 
 very strong. The Mamba fish has breasts with milk, and 
 utters a cry ; its flesh is very white. 
 
 1st May, 1870. An elephant was killed which had three 
 tusks; all of good size. Rains continued; and mud and 
 mire from the clayey soil of Manyuema were too awful to be 
 attempted. 
 
 24A. I sent to Bambarre for the cloth and beads I left 
 there. A party of Thani's people came south and said that 
 they had killed forty Manyuema, and lost four of their own 
 number; nine villages were burned, and all this about a 
 single string of beads which a man tried to steal ! 
 
 June, 1870. Mohamad bin Nassur and Akila's men brought 
 116 tusks from the north, where the people are said to be all 
 good and obliging. When we had the people here Kassessa 
 gave ten goats and one tusk to hire them to avenge a feud in 
 which his elder brother was killed, and they went ; the spoils 
 secured were 31 captives, 60 goats, and about 40 Manyuema 
 killed : one slave of the attacking party was killed, and two 
 badly wounded. Thani's man, Yahood, who was leader in 
 the other case of 40 killed, boasted before me of the deed. 
 I said, " You were sent here not to murder, but to trade ; " 
 he replied, "We are sent to murder." Bin Nassur said, 
 " The English are always killing people ; " I replied, " Yes, 
 but only slavers who do the deeds that were done yesterday."
 
 CHUMAH AXD SUSI.
 
 SUSI, CHUMAH, AND GARDNER. 241 
 
 Various other tribes sent large presents to the Arabs to 
 avert assaults, and tusks too were offered. 
 
 The rains had continued into June, and 58 inches fell. 
 
 26A. Now my people failed me; so, with only three 
 attendants, Susi, Chumah, and Gardner, I started oft' to the 
 north-west for the Lualaba. The numbers of running rivu- 
 lets to be crossed were surprising, and at each, for some forty 
 yards, the path had been worked by the feet of passengers 
 into adhesive mud : we crossed fourteen in one day some 
 thigh deep ; most of them run into the Liya, which we 
 crossed, and it flows to the Lualaba. We passed through 
 many villages, for the paths all lead through human dwellings. 
 Many people presented bananas, and seemed surprised when 
 I made a small return gift ; one man ran after me with a 
 sugar-cane ; I paid for lodgings, too : here the Arabs never do. 
 
 29A. At one village musicians with calabashes, having 
 holes in them, flute-fashion, tried to please me by their vigor- 
 ous acting, and by beating drums in time. 
 
 BOth. We passed through the nine villages burned for a 
 single string of beads, and slept in the village of Malola. 
 
 July^ 1870. While I was sleeping quietly here, some 
 trading Arabs camped at Nasangwa's, and at dead of night 
 one was pinned to the earth by a spear ; no doubt this was 
 in revenge for relations slain in the forty mentioned : the 
 survivors now wished to run a muck in all directions against 
 the Manyuema. 
 
 When I came up I proposed to ask the chief if he knew 
 the assassin, and he replied that he was not sure of him, for 
 he could only conjecture who it was ; but death to all Man- 
 yuemas glared from the eyes of half-castes and slaves. For- 
 tunately, before this affair was settled in their way, I met 
 Mohamad Bogharib coming back from Kasonga's, and he 
 joined in enforcing peace : the traders went off, but let my 
 three people know, what I knew long before, that they hated 
 having a spy in me on their deeds. I told some of them 
 who were civil-tongued that ivory obtained by bloodshed was 
 unclean evil " unlucky," as they say : my advice to them
 
 242 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 was, " Don't shed human blood, my friends ; it has guilt not 
 to be wiped off by water." Off they went ; and afterwards 
 the bloodthirsty party got only one tusk and a half, while 
 another party, which avoided shooting men, got fifty-four 
 tusks ! 
 
 From Mohamad's people I learned that the Lualaba was 
 not in the N.W. course I had pursued, for in fact it flows 
 W.S.W. in another great bend, and they had gone far to the 
 north without seeing it, but the country was exceedingly 
 difficult from forest and water. As I had already seen, trees 
 fallen across the path formed a breast-high wall which had to 
 be climbed over : flooded rivers, breast and neck deep, had 
 to be crossed, the mud was awful, and nothing but villages 
 eight or ten miles apart. 
 
 In the clearances around these villages alone could the sun 
 be seen. For the first time in my life my feet failed me, and 
 now, having but three attendants, it would have been unwise 
 to go further in that direction. Instead of healing quietly 
 as heretofore, when torn by hard travel, irritable-eating 
 ulcers fastened on both feet ; and I limped back to Bambarre 
 on 22nd. 
 
 The accounts of Ramadan (who was desired by me to take 
 notes as he went in the forest) were discouraging, and made 
 me glad I did not go. At one part, where the tortuous river 
 was flooded, they were five hours in the water, and a man in 
 a small canoe went before them sounding for places not too 
 deep for them, breast and chin deep, and Hassani fell and 
 hurt himself sorely in a hole. The people have goats and 
 sheep, and love them as they do children. 
 
 Qth. Back to Mamohela, and welcomed by the Arabs, 
 who all approved of my turning back. Katomba presented 
 abundant provisions for all the way to Bambarre. Before we 
 reached this, Mohamad made a forced march, and Moenemo- 
 kaia's people came out drunk : the Arabs assaulted them, and 
 they ran off. 
 
 [Livingstone arrived at Bambarre on the 22nd of July.] 
 
 23rd. The sores on my feet now laid me up as irritable-
 
 LIVINGSTONE'S FEET FAIL HIM. 243 
 
 eating ulcers. If the foot were put to the ground, a dis- 
 charge of bloody ichor flowed, and the same discharge 
 happened every night with considerable pain, that prevented 
 sleep : the wailing of the slaves tortured with these sores is 
 one of the night sounds of a slave-camp : they eat through 
 everything muscle, tendon, and bone, and often lame per- 
 manently if they do not kill the poor things. Medicines 
 have very little effect on such wounds: their periodicity 
 seems to say that they are allied to fever. The Arabs make 
 a salve of bees' -wax and sulphate of copper, and this applied 
 hot, and held on by a bandage, affords support, but the 
 necessity of letting the ichor escape renders it a painful 
 remsdy : I had three ulcers, and no medicine. The native 
 plan of support by means of a stiff leaf or bit of calabash 
 was too irritating, and so they continued to eat in and enlarge 
 in spite of everything : the vicinity was hot, and the pain 
 increased with the size of the wound. 
 
 2nd August, 1870. An eclipse at midnight : the Moslems 
 called loudly on Moses. Yery cold. 
 
 Vlth. It transpired that Kandahara, brother of old Moene- 
 kuss, whose village is near this, killed three women and a 
 child, and that a trading man came over from Kosangangaye, 
 and was murdered too, for no reason but to eat his body. 
 Mohamad ordered old Kandahara to bring ten goats and take 
 them over to Kasangangaye to pay for the murdered man. 
 When they tell of each other's deeds they disclose a horrid 
 state of bloodthirsty callousness. The people over a hill 
 N.N.E. of this killed a person out hoeing ; if a cultivator is 
 alone, he is almost sure of being slain. Some said that 
 people in the vicinity, or hyaenas, stole the buried dead ; but 
 Posho's wife died, and in Wanyamesi fashion was thrown 
 out of camp unburied. Mohamad threatened an attack if 
 Manyuema did not cease exhuming the dead ; it was effectual, 
 neither men nor hyaenas touched her, though exposed now 
 for seven days. 
 
 The head of Moenekuss is said to be preserved in a pot in 
 his house, and all public matters are gravely communicated
 
 244 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 to it, as if his spirit dwelt therein : his body was eaten, the 
 flesh was removed from the head and eaten too ; his father's 
 head is said to be kept also : the foregoing refers to Bam- 
 barre alone. In other districts graves show that sepulture is 
 customary, but here no grave appears : some admit the exist- 
 ence of the practice here ; others deny it. In the Metamba 
 country adjacent to the Lualaba, a quarrel with a wife often 
 ends in the husband killing her and eating her heart, mixed 
 up in a huge mess of goat's flesh : this has the charm charac- 
 ter. Fingers are taken as charms in other parts, but in Bam- 
 barre alone is the depraved taste the motive for cannibalism. 
 
 Bambarre^ 182A August. I learn from Josut and Moene- 
 pembe, who have been to Katanga and beyond, that there is 
 a Lake N.N.W. of the copper mines, and twelve days dis- 
 tant ; it is called Chibungo, and is said to be large. Seven 
 days west of Katafiga flows another Lualaba, the dividing 
 line between Rua and Lunda, or Londa ; it is very large, and 
 as the Lufira flows into Chibungo, it is probable that the 
 Lualaba West and the Lufira form the Lake. Lualaba West 
 and Lufira rise by fountains south of Katanga, three or four 
 days off. Luambai and Lunga fountains are only about ten 
 miles distant from Lualaba West and Lufira fountains: a 
 mound rises between them, the most remarkable in Africa. 
 Were this spot in Armenia it would serve exactly the descrip- 
 tion of the Garden of Eden in Genesis, with its four rivers, 
 the Gihon, Pison, Hiddekel, and Euphrates ; as it is, it possi- 
 bly gave occasion to the story told to Herodotus by the 
 Secretary of Minerva in the City of Sai's, about two hills 
 with conical tops, Crophi and Mophi. "Midway between 
 them," said he, "are the fountains of the Nile, fountains 
 which it is impossible to fathom : half the water runs north- 
 ward into Egypt ; half to the south towards Ethiopia." 
 
 Four fountains rising so near to each other would readily 
 be supposed to have one source, and half the water flowing 
 into the Nile and the other half to the Zambesi, required but 
 little imagination to originate, seeing the actual visitor would 
 not feel bound to say how the division was effected. He
 
 ABOUT THE WATERSHED. 24:5 
 
 could only know the fact of waters rising at one spot, and 
 separating to flow north and south. The conical tops to the 
 mound look like invention, as also do the names. 
 
 A slave, bought on Lualaba East, came from Lualaba West 
 in about twelve days : these two Lualabas may form the loop 
 depicted by Ptolemy, and upper and lower Tanganyika be a 
 third arm of the Nile. 
 
 Patience is all I can exercise : these irritable ulcers hedge 
 me in now, as did my attendants in June, but all will be for 
 the best, for it is in Providence and not in me. 
 
 The watershed is between 700 and 800 miles long from 
 west to east, or say from 22 or 23 to 34 or 35 East longi- 
 tude. Parts of it are enormous sponges; in other parts 
 innumerable rills unite into rivulets, which again form 
 rivers Lufira, for instance, has nine rivulets, and Lekulwe 
 other nine. The convex surface of the rose of a garden 
 watering-can is a tolerably apt similitude, as the rills do not 
 spring off the face of it, and it is TOO miles across the circle : 
 but in the numbers of rills coming out at different heights on 
 the slope, there is a faint resemblance, and I can at present 
 think of no other example. 
 
 [The subjoined account of the soko which is in all proba- 
 bility an entirely new species of chimpanzee, and not the 
 gorilla, is exceedingly interesting.] 
 
 24M,. Four gorillas or sokos were killed yesterday : an 
 extensive grass-burning forced them out of their usual haunt, 
 and coming on the plain they were speared. They often go 
 erect, but place the hand on the head, as if to steady the 
 body. "When seen thus, the soko is an ungainly beast. The 
 most sentimental young lady would not call him a " dear," 
 but a bandy-legged, pot-bellied, low-looking villain, without 
 a particle of the gentleman in him. Other animals, espe- 
 cially the antelopes, are graceful, and it is pleasant to see 
 them, either at rest or in motion : the natives also are well 
 made, lithe and comely to behold, but the soko, if large, 
 would do, well to stand for a picture of the devil. 
 
 He takes away my appetite by his disgusting bestiality of
 
 246 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 appearance. His light-yellow face shows off his ugly whis- 
 kers and faint apology for a beard ; the forehead, villainously 
 low, with high ears, is well in the back-ground of the great 
 dog-mouth ; the teeth are slightly human, but the canines 
 show the beast by their large development. The hands, or 
 rather the fingers, are like those of the natives. The flesh 
 of the feet is yellow, and the eagerness with which the Man- 
 yuema devour it leaves the impression that eating sokos was 
 the first stage by which they arrived at being cannibals ; they 
 say the flesh is delicious. The soko is represented by some 
 to be extremely knowing, successfully stalking men and 
 women while at their work, kidnapping children, and running 
 up trees with them he seems to be amused by the sight of the 
 young native in his arms, but comes down when tempted by 
 a bunch of bananas, and as he lifts that, drops the child: the 
 young soko in such a case would cling closely to the armpit 
 of the elder. One man was cutting out honey from a tree, 
 and naked, when a soko suddenly appeared and caught him, 
 then let him go : another man was hunting, and missed in 
 his attempt to stab a soko : it seized the spear and broke it, 
 then grappled with the man, who called to his companions, 
 " Soko has caught me ; " the soko bit off the ends of his 
 fingers and escaped unharmed. Both men are now alive at 
 Bambarre. 
 
 The soko is so cunning, and has such sharp eyes, that no 
 one can stalk him in front without being seen hence, when 
 shot, it is always in the back ; when surrounded by men and 
 nets, he is generally speared in the back too, otherwise he is 
 not a very formidable beast : he is nothing, as compared in 
 power of damaging his assailant, to a leopard or lion, but is 
 more like a man unarmed, for it does not occur to him to 
 use his canine teeth, which are long and formidable. Num- 
 bers of them come down in the forest, within a hundred 
 yards of our camp, and would be unknown but for giving 
 tongue like fox-hounds: this is their nearest approach to 
 speech. A man hoeing was stalked by a soko, and seized ; 
 he roared out, but the soko giggled and grinned, and left him
 
 THE SOKO. 249 
 
 as if he had done it in play. A child caught up by a soko is 
 often abused by being pinched and scratched, and let fall. 
 
 The soko kills the leopard occasionally, by seizing both 
 paws, and biting them so as to disable them, he then goes up 
 a tree, groans over his wounds, and sometimes recovers, while 
 the leopard dies : at other times, both soko and leopard die. 
 The lion kills him at once, and sometimes tears his limbs off, 
 but does not eat him. The soko eats no flesh small bananas 
 are his dainties, but not maize. His food consists of wild 
 fruits, which abound : one, Stafene, or Manyuema Mamwa, 
 is like large sweet sop, but indifferent in taste and flesh. 
 The soko brings forth at times twins. A very large soko 
 was seen by Mohamad's hunters sitting picking his nails; 
 they tried to stalk him, but he vanished. Some Manyuema 
 think that their buried dead rise as sokos, and one was killed 
 with holes in his ears, as if he had been a man. He is very 
 strong, and fears guns, but not spears; he never catches 
 women. 
 
 Sokos collect together, and make a drumming noise, some 
 say with hollow trees, then burst forth into loud yells which 
 are well imitated by the natives' embryotic music. If a man 
 has no spear the soko goes away satisfied, but if wounded he 
 seizes the wrist, lops off the fingers, and spits them out, slaps 
 the cheeks of his victim, and bites without breaking the 
 skin : he draws out a spear (but never uses it), and takes some 
 leaves and stuffs them into his wound to stanch the blood ; 
 he does not wish an encounter with an armed man. He sees 
 women do him no harm, and never molests them ; a man 
 without a spear is nearly safe from him. They beat hollow 
 trees as drums with hands, and then scream as music to it ; 
 when men hear them, they go to the sokos ; but sokos never 
 go to men with hostility. Manyuema say, " Soko is a man, 
 and nothing bad in him." 
 
 They live in communities of about ten, each having his 
 own female ; an intruder from another camp is beaten off 
 with their fists and loud yells. If one tries to seize the 
 female of another, he is caught on the ground, and all unite
 
 250 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 in boxing and biting the offender. A male often carries a 
 child, especially if they are passing from one patch of forest 
 to another over a grassy space: he then gives it to the 
 mother. 
 
 I now spoke with my friend Mohamad, and he offered to 
 go with me to see Lualaba from Luamo, but I explained 
 that merely to see and measure its depth would not do, I 
 must see whither it went. This would require a number of 
 his people in lieu of my deserters, and to take them away 
 from his ivory trade, which at present is like gold-digging, I 
 must make amends, and I offered him 2,000 rupees, and a 
 gun worth 700 rupees, R. 2,700 in all, or 270Z. He agreed, 
 and should he enable me to finish up my work in one trip 
 down Lualaba, and round to Lualaba West, it would be a 
 great favor. 
 
 The severe pneumonia in Marunga, the choleraic complaint 
 in Manyuema, and now irritable ulcers, warn me to retire 
 while life lasts. Mohamad's people went north, and east, and 
 west, from Kasonga's : sixteen marches north, ten ditto west, 
 and four ditto E. and S.E. The average march was 6> 
 hours, say 12', about 200' N. and W., lat. of Kasonga, say 4 
 south. They may have reached 1, 2 S. They were now 
 in the Balegge country, and turned. It was all dense forest, 
 they never saw the sun except when at a village, and then 
 the villages were too far apart. The people were very fond 
 of sheep, which they call ngornbe, or ox, and tusks are never 
 used. They went off to where an elephant had formerly been 
 killed, and brought the tusks rotted and eaten or gnawed by 
 "Dere" (?) a Rodent, probably the Aulocaudatus Swm- 
 derianus. Three large rivers were crossed, breast and chin 
 deep ; in one they were five hours, and a man in a small 
 canoe went ahead sounding for water capable of being waded. 
 Much water and mud in the forest. This report makes me 
 thankful I did not go, for I should have seen nothing, and 
 been worn out by fatigue and mud. They tell me that the 
 River Metunda had black water, and took two hours to cross 
 it, breast deep. They crossed about forty smaller rivers over
 
 THE DESERTERS. 251 
 
 the Kiver Mohunga, breast deep. The River of Mbite also 
 is large. All along Lualaba and Metumbe the sheep have 
 hairy dew-laps, no wool, Tartar breed (?), small, thin tails. 
 
 A broad belt of meadow-land, with no trees, lies along 
 Lualaba, beyond that it is all dense forest, and trees so large, 
 that one lying across the path is breast high: clearances 
 exist only around the villages. The people are very expert 
 smiths and weavers of the " Lamba," and make fine large 
 spears, knives, and needles. Market-places, called " Tokos," 
 are numerous all along Lualaba ; to these the Barua of the 
 other bank come daily in large canoes, bringing grass-cloth, 
 salt, flour, cassava, fowls, goats, pigs, and slaves. The women 
 are beautiful, with straight noses, and well-clothed; when 
 the men of the districts are at war, the women take their 
 goods to market as if at peace and are never molested : all 
 are very keen traders, buying one thing with another, and 
 changing back again, and any profit made is one of the 
 enjoyments of life. 
 
 I knew that my deserters hoped to be fed by Mohamad 
 Bogharib when we left the camp at Mamohela, but he told 
 them that he would not have them ; this took them aback, 
 but they went and lifted his ivory for him, and when a parley 
 was thus brought about, talked him over, saying that they 
 would go to me and do all I desired : they never came, but, 
 as no one else would take them, I gave them three loads to 
 go to Bambarre ; there they told Mohamad that I would not 
 give them beads, and they did not like to steal ; they were 
 now trying to get his food by lies. I invited them three 
 times to come and take beads, but having supplies of food 
 from the camp women, they hoped to get the upper hand 
 with me, and take what they liked by refusing to carry or 
 work. Mohamad spoke long to them, but speaking mildly 
 makes them imagine that the spokesman is afraid of them. 
 They kept away from my work and would fain join Moha- 
 mad's, but he won't have them. I gave beads to all but the 
 ringleaders. Their conduct looks as if a quarrel had taken 
 place between us, but no such excuse have they.
 
 252 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 I am powerless, as they have left me, and think that they 
 may do as they like, and the " Manyuema are bad " is the 
 song. Their badness consists in being dreadfully afraid of 
 guns, and the Arabs can do just as they like with them and 
 their goods. If spears alone were used the Manyuema would 
 be considered brave, for they fear no one though he has many 
 spears. They tell us truly " that were it not for our guns not 
 one of us would return to our own country." Moenemokaia 
 killed two Arab agents, and took their guns ; this success led 
 to their asserting, in answer to the remonstrances of the 
 women, " "We shall take their goats, guns, and women from 
 them." The chief, in reporting the matter to Moenemger (?) 
 at Luamo, said, " The Englishman told my people to go away, 
 as he did not like fighting, but my men were filled with 
 'malofu,' or palm-toddy, and refused to their own hurt." 
 Elsewhere they made regular preparation to have a fight with 
 Dugumbe's people, just to see who was strongest they with 
 their spears and wooden shields, and the Arabs with what in 
 derision they called tobacco-pipes (guns). They killed eight 
 or nine Arabs. 
 
 No traders seem ever to have come in before this. Barma 
 brought copper and skins for tusks, and the Babisa and 
 Baguha coarse beads. The Bavira are now enraged at seeing 
 Ujijians pass into their ivory field, and no wonder; they 
 took the tusks which cost them a few strings of beads, and 
 received weight for weight in beads, thick brass wire, and 
 loads of calico.
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 STRANDED AT BAMBARRE. 
 
 BAMBARRE, AUGUST 25xH, 1870. One of my waking 
 dreams is that the legendary tales about Moses coming 
 up into Inner Ethiopia with Merr his foster-mother, and 
 founding a city which he called in her honor " Meroe," may 
 have a substratum of fact. He was evidently a man of 
 transcendent genius, and we learn from the speech of St. 
 Stephen that "he was learned in all the wisdom of the 
 Egyptians, and was mighty in words and in deeds." His 
 deeds must have been well known in Egypt, for "he sup- 
 posed that his brethren would have understood how that God 
 by His hand would deliver them, but they understood not." 
 His supposition could not be founded on his success in 
 smiting a single Egyptian ; he was too great a man to be 
 elated by a single act of prowess, but his success on a large 
 scale in Ethiopia afforded reasonable grounds for believing 
 that his brethren would be proud of their countryman, and 
 disposed to follow his leadership, but they were slaves. The 
 notice taken of the matter by Pharaoh showed that he was 
 eyed by the great as a dangerous, if not powerful, man. He 
 " dwelt " in Midian for some time before his gallant bearing 
 towards the shepherds by the well, commended him to the 
 priest or prince of the country. An uninteresting wife, and 
 the want of intercourse with kindred spirits during the long 
 forty years' solitude of a herdsman's life, seem to have acted 
 injuriously on his spirits, and it was not till he had with 
 Aaron struck terror into the Egyptian mind, that the "man
 
 254: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Moses " again became " very great in the eyes of Pharaoh 
 and his servants." The Ethiopian woman whom he married 
 could scarcely be the daughter of Reuel or Jethro, for Midian 
 was descended from Keturah, Abraham's concubine, and they 
 were never considered Cushite or Ethiopian. If he left his 
 wife in Egypt she would now be some fifty or sixty years old, 
 and all the more likely to be despised by the proud 
 prophetess Miriam as a daughter of Ham. 
 
 I dream of discovering some monumental relics of Meroe, 
 and if anything confirmatory of sacred history does remain, 
 I pray to be guided thereunto. If the sacred chronology 
 would thereby be confirmed, I would not grudge the toil and 
 hardships, hunger and pain, I have endured the irritable 
 ulcers would only be discipline. 
 
 [Searching in his closely-written pocket-books we find 
 many little mementoes of his travels ; such, for instance, as 
 two or three tsetse flies pressed between the leaves of one 
 book ; some bees, some leaves and moths in another, but, 
 hidden away in the pocket of the note-book which Living- 
 stone used during the longest and most painful illness he 
 ever underwent lies a small scrap of printed paper which 
 tells a tale in its own simple way. On one side there is 
 written in his well-known hand : ] 
 
 " Turn over and see a drop of comfort found when suffer- 
 ing from irritable eating ulcers on the feet in Manyuema, 
 August, 1870." 
 
 [On the reverse we see that the scrap was evidently 
 snipped off a list of books advertised at the end of some 
 volume which, with the tea and other things sent to Ujiji, 
 had reached him before setting out on this perilous journey. 
 The " drop of comfort " is a complimentary notice of his 
 " Narrative of an Expedition to the Zambesi^ copied from 
 the British Quarterly Review. The kindly pen of the 
 reviewer served a good turn when there was " no medicine " 
 but the following: ] 
 
 I was at last advised to try malachite, nibbed down with 
 water on a stone, and applied with a feather: this is the 
 only thing that has any beneficial effect.
 
 A LONG ILLNESS SLOW RECOVERY. 255 
 
 9M September, 1870. A Londa slave stole ten goats from 
 the Manyuema ; he was bound, but broke loose, and killed 
 two goats yesterday. He was given to the Manyuema. The 
 Balonda evidently sold their criminals only. He was shorn 
 of his ears and would have been killed, but Monangoi said, 
 " Don't let the blood of a freeman touch our soil." 
 
 26A. I am able now to report the ulcers healing. For 
 eighty days I have been completely laid up by them, and it 
 will be long ere the lost substance will be replaced. They 
 kill many slaves ; and an epidemic came to us which carried 
 off thirty in our small camp. 
 
 4tk October, 1870. A trading party from TJjiji reports an 
 epidemic raging between the coast and Ujiji, and very fatal. 
 Syde bin Habib and Dugumbe are coming, and they have 
 letters and perhaps people for me, so I remain, though the 
 irritable ulcers are well-nigh healed. 
 
 I cannot understand very well what a " Theoretical Dis- 
 coverer" is. If anyone got up and declared in a public 
 meeting that he was the theoretical discoverer of the philos- 
 opher's stone, or of perpetual motion for watches, should we 
 not mark him as a little wrong in the head ? So of the Nile 
 sources. The Portuguese crossed the Chambeze some seventy 
 years before I did, but to them it was a branch of the Zam- 
 besi and nothing more. Cooley put it down as the New 
 Zambesi, and made it run backwards, up hill, between 3000 
 and 4000 feet ! I was misled by the similarity of names and 
 a map, to think it the eastern branch of the Zambesi. I was 
 told that it formed a large water in the south-west ; this I 
 readily believed to be the Liambai, in the Barotse Yalley, 
 and it took me eighteen months of toil to come back again to 
 the Chambeze in Lake Bangweolo, and work out the error 
 into which I was led twenty-two months elapsed ere I got 
 back to the point whence I set out to explore Chambeze, 
 Bangweolo, Luapula, Moero, and Lualaba. I spent two full 
 years at this work, and the Chief Casembe was the first to 
 throw light on the subject by saying, " It is the same water 
 here as in the Chambeze, the same ill Moero and Lualaba, 
 and one piece of water is just like another. Will you draw
 
 256 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 out calico from it that you wish to see it ? As your chief 
 desired you to see Bangweolo, go to it, and if in going north 
 you see a traveling party, join it ; if not, come back to me, 
 and I will send you safely by my path along Moero." 
 
 The central Lualaba I would fain call the Lake River 
 Webb; the western, the Lake River Young. The Lufira 
 and Lualaba West form a lake, the native name of which, 
 " Chibungo," must give way to Lake Lincoln. I wish to 
 name the fountain of the Liambai or Upper Zambesi, 
 Palmerston Fountain, and adding that of Sir Bartle Frere 
 to the fountain of Lufira, three names of men who have 
 done more to abolish slavery and the slave-trade than any of 
 their cotemporaries. 
 
 [The following paragraph occurs in a dispatch written to 
 the Earl of Derby by Dr. Livingstone a few weeks before 
 his death.] 
 
 "I have tried to honor the name of the good Lord 
 Palmerston, in fond remembrance of his long and unwearied 
 labor for the abolition of the Slave Trade ; and I venture to 
 place the name of the good and noble Lincoln on the lake, 
 in gratitude to him who gave freedom to 4,000,000 of slaves. 
 These two great men are no longer among us ; but it pleases 
 me, here in the wilds, to place, as it were, my poor little 
 garland of love on their tombs." 
 
 1.0th. I came out of my hut to-day, after being confined 
 to it since the 22nd July, or eighty days, by irritable ulcers 
 on the feet. The last twenty days I suffered from fever, 
 which reduced my strength, taking away my voice, and 
 purging me. My appetite was good, but the third mouthful 
 of any food caused nausea and vomiting purging took place 
 and profuse sweating; it was choleraic, and how many 
 Manyuema died of it we could not ascertain. While this 
 epidemic raged here, we heard of cholera terribly severe on 
 the way to the coast. I am thankful to feel myself well. 
 We expect Syde bin Habib soon : he will take to the river, 
 an,d I hope so shall I. 
 
 We expect letters, and perhaps men by Syde bin Habib.
 
 UNGRATEFUL GUESTS. 257 
 
 I am in agony for news from home ; all I feel sure of now 
 is that my friends will all wish me to complete my task. 1 
 join in the wish now, as better than doing it in vain 
 afterwards. 
 
 The visits of the Ujijian traders must be felt by the Man- 
 yuema to be a severe infliction, for the huts are appropriated, 
 and no leave asked: firewood, pots, baskets, and food are 
 used without scruple, and anything that pleases is taken 
 away ; usually the women flee into the forest, and return to 
 find the whole place a litter of broken food. I tried to pay 
 the owners of the huts in which I slept, but often in vain, 
 for they hid in the forest, and feared to come near. It 
 was common for old men to come forward to me with 
 a present of bananas as I passed, uttering with trembling 
 accents, " Bolongo, Bolongo ! " (" Friendship, Friendship ! "), 
 and if I stopped to make a little return present, others ran 
 for plantains or palm-toddy. The Arabs' men ate up what 
 they demanded, without one word of thanks, and turned 
 round to me and said, "They are bad, don't give them 
 anything." " Why, what badness is there in giving food ? " 
 I replied. " Oh ! they like you, but hate us." One man 
 gave me an iron ring, and all seemed inclined to be friendly, 
 yet they are undoubtedly bloodthirsty to other Manyuema, 
 and kill each other. 
 
 Syde bin Habib and Dugumbe will open up the Lualaba 
 this year, and I am hoping to enter the West Lualaba, or 
 Young's Kiver, and if possible go up to Katanga. The 
 Lord be my guide and helper. I feel the want of medicine 
 strongly, almost as much as the want of men. 
 
 19tfA. Bambarre. The ringleading deserters sent Chumah 
 to say that they were going with the people of Mohamad 
 (who left to-day) to the Metamba, but I said that I had 
 nought to say to them. They would go now to the Metamba, 
 whom, on deserting, they said they so much feared, and 
 they think nothing of having left me to go with only three 
 attendants, and get my feet torn to pieces in mud and sand. 
 They probably meant to go back to the women at Mamohela,
 
 258 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 who fed. them in the absence of their husbands. They were 
 told by Mohamad that they must not follow his people, and 
 he gave orders to bind them, and send them back if they 
 did. They think that no punishment will reach them what- 
 ever they do : they are freemen, and need not work or do 
 anything but beg. " English," they call themselves, and the 
 Arabs fear them, though the eagerness with which they 
 engaged in slave-hunting showed them to be genuine niggers. 
 
 20th. The party under Hassani crossed the Logumba at 
 Kanyingere's, and went N. and N.N.E. They found the 
 country becoming more and more mountainous, till at last, 
 approaching Morere, it was perpetually up and down. They 
 slept at a village on the top, and could send for water to the 
 bottom only once, it took so much time to descend and 
 ascend. The Balegga were very unfriendly, and collected in 
 thousands. " We come to buy ivory," said Hassani, " and 
 if there is none we go away." " Nay," shouted they, " you 
 come to die here ! " and then they shot with arrows ; when 
 musket-balls were returned they fled, and would not come 
 to receive the captives. 
 
 25tfA. Bambarre. In this journey I have endeavored to 
 follow with unswerving fidelity the line of duty. My course 
 has been an even one, turning neither to the right hand nor 
 to the left, though my route has been tortuous enough. All 
 the hardship, hunger, and toil were met with the full convic- 
 tion that I was right in persevering to make a complete 
 work of the exploration of the sources of the Nile. Mine 
 has been a calm, hopeful endeavor to do the work that has 
 been given me to do, whether I succeed or whether I fail. 
 The prospect of death in pursuing what I knew to be right 
 did not make me veer to one side or the other. I had a 
 strong presentiment during the first three years that I should 
 never live through the enterprise, but it weakened as I came 
 near to the end of the journey, and an eager desire to dis- 
 cover any evidence of the great Moses having visited these 
 parts bound me, spell-bound me, I may say, for if I could 
 bring to light anything to confirm the Sacred Oracles, I
 
 THE AFRICAN PASSPORT. 259 
 
 should not grudge one whit all the labor expended. I have 
 to go down the Central Lualaba or Webb's Lake River, then 
 up the Western or Young's Lake River to Katanga head 
 waters and then retire. I pray that it may be to my native 
 home. 
 
 Syde bin Habib, Dugumbe, Juma Merikano, Abdullah 
 Masendi are coming in with TOO muskets, and an immense 
 store of beads, copper, etc. They will cross Lualaba and 
 trade west of it : I wait for them because they may have 
 letters for me. 
 
 28th. Moenemokata, who has traveled further than most 
 Arabs, said to me, " If a man goes with a good-natured, 
 civil tongue, he may pass through the worst people in Africa 
 unharmed : " this is true, but time also is required : one 
 must not run through a country, but give the people time to 
 become acquainted with you, and let their first fears subside. 
 
 29A. The Manyuema buy their wives from each other ; 
 a pretty girl brings ten goats. I saw one brought home 
 to-day ; she came jauntily with but one attendant, and her 
 husband walking behind. They stop five days, then go back 
 and remain other five days at home: then the husband 
 fetches her again. Many are pretty, and have perfect forms 
 and limbs. 
 
 2nd November, 1870. The plain without trees that flanks 
 the Lualaba on the right bank, called Mbuga, is densely 
 peopled, and the inhabitants are all civil and friendly. 
 From fifty to sixty large canoes come over from the left 
 bank daily to hold markets : these people too " are good," but 
 the dwellers in the Metamba or dense forest are treacherous, 
 and murder a single person without scruple : the dead body 
 is easily concealed. 
 
 I long with intense desire to move on and finish my 
 work, I have also an excessive wish to find anything that 
 may exist proving the visit of the great Moses and the 
 ancient kingdom of Tirhaka, but I pray give me just what 
 pleases Thee, my Lord, and make me submissive to Thy 
 will in all things.
 
 260 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 I received information about Mr. Young's search trip 
 up the Shire and Nyassa only in February, 1870, and now 
 take the first opportunity of offering hearty thanks in a 
 dispatch to Her Majesty's Government, and all concerned 
 in kindly inquiring after my fate. 
 
 Musa fled in terror on hearing a false report from a half- 
 caste Arab about the Mazitu, 150 miles distant, though I 
 promised to go due west, and not turn to the north till far 
 past the beat of that tribe. The few liberated slaves with 
 whom I went on had the misfortune to be Mohamadan slaves 
 in boyhood, but did fairly till we came into close contact 
 with Moslems again. A black Arab was released from a 
 twelve years' bondage by Casembe, through my own influence 
 and that of the Sultan's letter : we traveled together for a 
 time, and he sold the favors of his female slaves to my 
 people for goods which he perfectly well knew were stolen 
 from me. He received my four deserters, and when I had 
 gone off to Lake Bangweolo with only four attendants, the 
 rest wished- to follow, but he dissuaded them by saying that 
 I had gone into a country where there was war : he was the 
 direct cause of all my difficulties with these liberated slaves, 
 but judged by the East African Moslem standard, as he ought 
 to be, and not by ours, he is a very good man, and I did not 
 think it prudent to come to a rupture with the old blackguard. 
 
 The Arabs tell me that Monyungo, a chief, was sent for 
 five years among the Watuta to learn their language and 
 ways, and he sent his two sons and a daughter to Zanzibar 
 to school. He kills many of his people, and says they are so 
 bad that if not killed they would murder strangers. Once 
 they were unruly, when he ordered some of them to give 
 their huts to Mohamad ; on refusing, he put fire to them, 
 and they soon called out, " Let them alone ; we will retire." 
 He dresses like an Arab, and has ten loaded guns at his 
 sitting-place, four pistols, two swords, several spears, and 
 two bundles of the Batuta spears : he laments that his father 
 filed his teeth when he was young. The name of his very 
 numerous people is Bawungu, country Urungu.
 
 LONGINGS FOR ACTIVITY. 261 
 
 The Basango, on the other hand, consider their chief as 
 a deity, and fear to say aught wrong, lest he should hear 
 them : they fear both before him and when out of sight. The 
 father of Merere never drank pombe or beer, and assigned as 
 a reason that a great man who had charge of people's lives 
 should never become intoxicated so as to do evil. 
 
 th. I long excessively to be away and finish my work 
 by the two lacustrine rivers, Lualaba of "Webb and Young, 
 but wait only for Syde and Dugumbe, who may have letters, 
 and as I do not intend to return hither, but go through 
 Karagwe homewards, I should miss them altogether. I 
 groan and am in bitterness at the delay, but thus it is : I pray 
 for help to do what is right, but sorely am I perplexed, and 
 grieved and mourn : I cannot give up making a complete 
 work of the exploration. 
 
 10A. The Arabs say that the Manyuema now understand 
 that every gun-shot does not kill ; the next thing they will 
 learn will be to grapple in close quarters in the forest, where 
 their spears will outmatch the guns in the hands of 
 slaves ; it will follow, too, that no one will be able to pass 
 through this country ; this is the usual course of- Suaheli 
 trading ; it is murder and plunder, and each slave as he rises 
 in his owner's favor is eager to show himself a mighty man 
 of valor, by coldblooded killing of his countrymen : if they 
 can kill a fellow-nigger, their pride boils up. The conscience 
 is not enlightened enough to cause uneasiness, and Islam 
 gives less than the light of nature. 
 
 I am grievously tired of living here. Mohamad is as 
 kind as he can be, but to sit idle or give up before I finish 
 my work are both intolerable ; I cannot bear either, yet I 
 am forced to remain by want of people. 
 
 ll^A. I wrote to Mohamad bin Saleh at Ujiji for letters 
 and medicines to be sent in a box of China tea, which is half 
 empty : if he cannot get carriers for the long box itself, then 
 he is to send these, the articles of which I stand in greatest 
 need. 
 
 The relatives of a boy captured at Monanyembe brought
 
 262 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 three goats to redeem him : he is sick and emaciated ; one 
 goat was rejected. The boy shed tears when he saw his 
 grandmother, and the father too, when his goat was rejected. 
 " So I returned and considered all the oppressions that are 
 done under the sun : and behold the tears of such as were 
 oppressed, and they had no comforter; and on the side of 
 their oppressors there was power; but they had no com- 
 forter." Eccles. iv. 1. The relations were told either to 
 bring the goat, or let the boy die ; this was hard-hearted. 
 At Mamohela ten goats are demanded for a captive, and 
 given too ; here three are demanded. " He that is higher 
 than the highest regardeth, and there be higher than they. 
 Marvel not at the matter." 
 
 When Syde and Dugumbe come, I hope to get men and a 
 canoe to finish my work among those who have not been 
 abused by Ujijians, and still retain their natural kindness of 
 disposition ; none of the people are ferocious without cause ; 
 and the sore experience which they gain from slaves with 
 guns in their hands usually ends in sullen hatred of all 
 strangers. 
 
 The 'education of the world is a terrible one, and it has 
 come down with relentless rigor on Africa from the most 
 remote times ! What the African will become after this 
 awfully hard lesson is learned, is among the future develop- 
 ments of Providence. When He, who is higher than the 
 highest, accomplishes his purposes, this will be a wonderful 
 country, and again something like what it was of old, when 
 Zerah and Tirhaka flourished, an<J were great.
 
 CHAPTER XVIL 
 EXPLORATIONS IN MANYUEMA RENEWED. 
 
 BAMBARRE, 6-ra DECEMBER, 1870. Oh, for Dugumbe 
 or Syde to come ! but this delay may be all for the best. 
 The parrots all seize their food, and hold it with the left 
 hand, the lion, too, is left-handed ; he strikes with the left, 
 so are all animals left-handed save man. 
 
 I noticed a very pretty woman come past this quite jauntily 
 about a month ago, on marriage with Monasimba. Ten goats 
 were given ; her friends came and asked another goat, which 
 being refused, she was enticed away, became sick of rheu- 
 matic fever two days afterwards, and died yesterday. Not 
 a syllable of regret for the beautiful young creature does one 
 hear, but for the goats : " Oh, our ten goats ! " they cannot 
 grieve too much " Our ten goats oh ! oh ! " 
 
 Basanga wail over those who die in bed, but not over those 
 who die in battle : the cattle are a salve for all sores. 
 
 Another man was killed within half a mile of this : they 
 quarreled, and there is virtually no chief. The man was 
 stabbed, the village burned, and the people all fled : they are 
 truly a bloody people ! 
 
 A man died near this, Monasimba went to his wife, and 
 after washing he may appear among men. If no widow can 
 be obtained, he must sit naked behind his house till some 
 one happens to die ; all the clothes he wore are thrown away. 
 They are the lowest of the low, and especially in bloodiness : 
 the man who killed a woman without cause goes free ; he 
 offered his grandmother to be killed in his stead, and after a 
 great deal of talk nothing was done to him !
 
 261 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Wth. I am sorely let and hindered in this Manyuema. 
 Rain every day, and often at night ; I could not travel now, 
 even if I had men, but I could make some progress ; this 
 is the sorest delay I ever had. I look above for help and 
 mercy. 
 
 I2t/i. It may be all for the best that I am so hindered, 
 and compelled to inactivity. 
 
 24th. Between twenty-five and thirty slaves have died in 
 the present epidemic, and many Manyuema ; two yesterday 
 at Kandawara. The feet swell, then the hands and face, and 
 in a day or two they drop dead ; it .came from the East, and 
 is very fatal, for few escape who take it. 
 
 A woman was accused of stealing maize, and the chief 
 here sent all his people yesterday, plundered all she had in 
 her house and garden, and brought her husband bound in 
 thongs till he shall pay a goat : she is said to be innocent. 
 
 Monangoi does this by fear of the traders here ; and, as the 
 people tell him, as soon as they are gone the vengeance he is 
 earning by injustice on all sides will be taken : I told the 
 chief that his head would be cut off as soon as the traders 
 leave, and so it will be, and Kasessa's also. 
 
 Three men went from Katomba to Kasongo's to buy 
 Yiramba, and a man was speared belonging to Kasongo ; 
 these three then fired into a mass of men who collected, one 
 killed two, another three, and so on ; so now that place is 
 shut up from traders, and all this country will be closed as 
 soon as the Manyuema learn that guns are limited in their 
 power of killing, and especially in the hands of slaves, who 
 cannot shoot, but only make a noise. These Suaheli are the 
 most cruel and bloodthirsty missionaries in existence, and 
 withal so impure in talk and acts, spreading disease every- 
 where. The Lord sees it. 
 
 28A. Moenembegg, the most intelligent of the two sons 
 of Moenekuss, in power, told us that a man was killed and 
 eaten a few miles from this yesterday : hunger was the reason 
 assigned. 
 
 The strangest disease I have seen in this country seems
 
 THE STRANGE DISEASE. 265 
 
 really to be broken-heartedness, and it attacks free men who 
 have been captured and made slaves. My attention was 
 drawn to it when the elder brother of Syde bin Habib was 
 killed in Eua by a night attack, from a spear being pitched 
 through his tent into his side. Syde then vowed vengeance 
 for the blood of his brother, and assaulted all he could find, 
 killing the elders, and making the young men captives. He 
 had secured a very large number, and they endured the 
 chains until they saw the broad River Lualaba roll between 
 them and their free homes ; they then lost heart. Twenty- 
 one were unchained as being now safe; however, all ran 
 away at once ; but eight, with many others still in chains, 
 died in three days after crossing. They ascribed their only 
 pain to the heart, and placed the hand correctly on the spot, 
 though many think that the organ stands high up under the 
 breast-bone. Some slavers expressed surprise to me that they 
 should die, seeing they had plenty to eat and no work. One 
 fine boy of about twelve years was carried, and when about 
 to expire, was kindly laid down on the side of the path, and 
 a hole dug to deposit the body in. He, too, said he had 
 nothing the matter with him, except pain in his heart : as it 
 attacks only the free (who are captured and never slaves), it 
 seems to be really broken-hearts of which they die. 
 
 [Livingstone's servants give some additional particulars in 
 answer to questions put to them about this dreadful history. 
 Children for a time would keep up with wonderful endurance, 
 but it happened sometimes that the sound of dancing and 
 the merry tinkle of the small drums would fall on their ears 
 in passing near to a village ; then the memory of home and 
 happy days proved too much for them ; they cried and 
 sobbed, the " broken-heart" came on, and they rapidly sank. 
 
 The adults as a rule came into the slave-sticks from 
 treachery, and had never been slaves before. Very often the 
 Arabs would promise a present of dried fish to villagers if 
 they would act as guides to some distant point, and as soon 
 as they were far enough away from their friends they were 
 seized and pinned into the yoke from which there is no
 
 266 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 escape. These poor fellows would expire in the way the 
 Doctor mentions, talking to the last of their wives and chil- 
 dren, who would never know what had become of them. 
 On one occasion twenty captives succeeded in escaping as 
 follows : Chained together by the neck, and in the custody 
 of an Arab armed with a gun, they were sent off to collect 
 wood ; at a given signal, one of them called the guard to 
 look at something which he pretended he had found : when 
 he stooped down they threw themselves upon him and over- 
 powered him, and after he was dead managed to break the 
 chain and make off in all directions.] 
 
 Rice sown on 19th October was in ear in seventy days. A 
 leopard killed my goat, and a gun set for him went off at 
 10 P.M. the ball broke both hind legs and one fore leg, yet 
 he had power to spring up and bite a man badly afterwards ; 
 he was a male, 2 feet 4 inches at withers, and 6 feet 8 inches 
 from tip of nose to end of tail. 
 
 1st January,, 1871. O Father! help me to finish this 
 work to Thy honor. 
 
 Still detained at Bambarre, but a caravan of 500 muskets 
 is reported from the coast : it may bring me other men and 
 goods. 
 
 Rain daily. A woman was murdered without cause close 
 by the camp ; the murderer said she was a witch and speared 
 her : the body is exposed till the affair is settled, probably by 
 a fine of goats. 
 
 The Manyuema are the most bloody, callous savages I 
 know ; one puts a scarlet feather from a parrot's tail on the 
 ground, and challenges those near to stick it in the hair : he 
 who does so must kill a man or woman ! 
 
 Another custom is that none dare wear the skin of the musk 
 cat, Ngawa, unless he has murdered somebody: guns alone 
 prevent them from killing us all, and for no reason either. 
 
 \6th. Ramadan ended last night, and it is probable my 
 people and others from the coast will begin to travel after 
 three days of feasting. It has been so rainy I could have 
 done little though I had had people.
 
 BOY KILLED AND EATEN. 269 
 
 Cold-blooded murders are frightfully common here. Some 
 kill people in order to be allowed to wear the red tail 
 feathers of a parrot in their hair ; and yet they are not ugly 
 like the West Coast Negroes, for many men have as finely 
 formed heads as could be found in London. We English, if 
 naked, would make but poor figures beside the strapping 
 forms and finely shaped limbs of Manyuema men and women. 
 Their cannibalism is doubtful, but my observations raise grave 
 suspicions. A Scotch jury would say, " Not proven." The 
 women are not guilty. 
 
 4Jh February, 1871. Ten of my men from the coast have 
 come near to Bambarre, and will arrive to-day. I am ex- 
 tremely thankful to hear it, for it assures me that my packet 
 of letters was not destroyed ; they know at home by this 
 time what has detained me, and the end to which I strain. 
 
 Only one letter reached, and forty are missing! James 
 was killed to-day by an arrow : the assassin was hid in the 
 forest till my men going to buy food came up. I propose to 
 leave on the 12th. I have sent Dr. Kirk a check for 
 Us. 4,000 : great havoc was made by cholera, and in the midst 
 of it my friend exerted himself greatly to get men off to me 
 with goods ; the first gang of porters all died. 
 
 8th. The ten men refusing to go north are influenced 
 probably by Shereef, and my two ringleaders, who try this 
 means to compel me to take them. 
 
 9#A. The man who contrived the murder of James came 
 here, drawn by the pretence that he was needed to lead a 
 party against the villages, which he led to commit the out- 
 rage. His thirst for blood is awful : he was bound, and word 
 sent to bring the actual murderers within three days, or he 
 suffers death. He brought five goats, thinking that would 
 smooth the matter over. 
 
 lltfA. Men struck work for higher wages : I consented to 
 give them six dollars a month if they behaved well ; if ill, I 
 diminish it, so we hope to start to-morrow. Another hunt- 
 ing quelled by Mohamad and me. 
 
 The ten men sent are all slaves of the Banians, who- are 
 o
 
 270 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 English subjects, and they come with a lie in their month : 
 they will not help me, and swear that the Consul told them 
 not to go forward, but to force me back ; and they spread 
 the tale all over the country that a certain letter has been 
 sent to me with orders to return forthwith. They swore so 
 positively that I actually looked again at Dr. Kirk's letter to 
 see if his orders had been rightly understood by me. But 
 for Mohamad Bogharib and fear of pistol-shot they would 
 gain their own and their Banian masters' end to baffle me 
 completely ; they demand an advance of one dollar, or six 
 dollars a month, though this is double freeman's pay at Zan- 
 zibar. Their two headmen, Shereef and Awathe, refused to 
 come past Ujiji, and are reveling on my goods there. 
 
 13th. Mabruki being seized with choleraic purging detains 
 us to-day. Yesterday crowds came to eat the meat of the 
 man who misled James to his death spot : but we want the 
 men who set the Mbanga men to shoot him : they were much 
 disappointed when they found that no one was killed, and 
 are undoubtedly cannibals. 
 
 16th. Started to-day. Mabruki making himself out very 
 ill, Mohamad roused him out by telling him I traveled when 
 much worse. The chief gave me a goat, and Mohamad 
 another, but in coming through the forest on the neck of the 
 mountain the men lost three, and have to go back for them, 
 and return to-morrow. Simon and Ibram were bundled out 
 of the camp, and impudently followed me : when they came 
 up, I told them to be off. 
 
 IftA. "Waiting at a village on the western slope for the 
 men to come up with the goats, if they have gone back to 
 the camp. Mohamad would not allow the deserters to re- 
 main among his people, nor would I. It would only be to 
 imbue the minds of my men with their want of respect for 
 all English, and total disregard of honesty and honor : they 
 came after me with inimitable effrontery, believing that, 
 though I said I would not take them, they were so valuable, 
 I was only saying what I knew to be false. The goats were 
 brought by a Manyuema man, who found one fallen into a
 
 A YOUNG SOKO. 271 
 
 pitfall, and dead ; he ate it, and brought one of his own in 
 lieu of it. I gave him ten strings of beads, and he presented 
 a fowl in token of goodwill. 
 
 18th. "Went on to a village on the Lulwa, and on the 19th 
 reached Moenemgoi. 
 
 20th. To the ford with only one canoe now, as two men of 
 Katomba were swept away in the other, and drowned. They 
 would not sell the remaining canoe, so I go N.W. on foot to 
 Moene Lualaba, where fine large canoes are abundant. The 
 grass and mud are grievous, but my men lift me over the waters. 
 
 21st. Arrived at Monandewa's village, situated on a high 
 ridge between two deep and difficult gullies. These people 
 are obliging and kind : the chief's wife made a fire for me in 
 the evening unbidden. 
 
 22nd On KW. to a high hill called Chibande a Yunde, 
 with a spring of white water at the village on the top. 
 Famine from some unknown cause here, but the people are 
 cultivating now on the plain below with a will. 
 
 23rd. On to two large villages with many banana plants 
 around, but the men said they were in fear of the traders, 
 and shifted their villages to avoid them : we then went on to 
 the village Kahombogola, with a feeble old man as chief. 
 The country is beautiful and undulating: light-green grass 
 covers it all, save at the brooks, where the eye is relieved by 
 the dark-green lines of trees. 
 
 24:th. To a village near Lolande River. Then to Mamo- 
 hela, where we were welcomed by all the Arabs, and I got a 
 letter from Dr. Kirk and another from the Sultan, and from 
 Mohamad bin Nassib, who was going to Karagwe : all anxious 
 to be kind. Katomba gave flour, nuts, fowls, and goat. A 
 new way is opened to Kasongo's, much shorter than that I 
 followed. I rest a few days, and then go on. 
 
 25th. So we went on, and found that it was now known 
 that the Lualaba flowed west-south-west, and that our course 
 was to be west across this other great bend of the mighty 
 river. I had to suspend my judgment, so as to be prepared 
 to find it after all, perhaps, the Congo.
 
 272 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Katomba presented a young soko or gorilla that had been 
 caught while its mother was killed ; she sits eighteen inches 
 high, has fine long black hair all over, which was pretty so 
 long as it was kept in order by her dam. She is the least 
 mischievous of all the monkey tribe I have seen, and seems 
 to know that in me she has a friend, and sits quietly on the 
 mat beside me. In walking, the first thing observed is that 
 she does not tread on the palms of her hands, but on the 
 backs of the second line of bones of the hands : in doing 
 this the nails do not touch the ground, nor do the knuckles ; 
 she uses the arms thus supported crutch fashion, and hitches 
 herself along between them ; occasionally one hand is put 
 down before the other, and alternates with the feet, or she 
 walks upright and holds up a hand to any one to carry her. 
 If refused, she turns her face down, and makes grimaces of 
 the most bitter human weeping, wringing her hands, and 
 sometimes adding a fourth hand or foot to make the appeal 
 more touching. Grass or leaves she draws around her to 
 make a nest, and resents any one meddling with her property. 
 She is a most friendly little beast, and came up to me at 
 once, making her chirrup of welcome, smelled my clothing, 
 and held out her hand to be shaken. I slapped her palm 
 without offence, though she winced. She began to untie the 
 cord with which she was afterwards bound, with fingers and 
 thumbs, in quite a systematic way, and on being interfered 
 with by a man looked daggers, and screaming tried to beat 
 him with her hands : she was afraid of his stick, and faced 
 him, putting her back to me as a friend. She holds out her 
 hand for people to lift her up and carry her, quite like a 
 spoiled child; then bursts into a passionate cry, somewhat 
 like that of a kite, wrings her hands quite naturally, as if in 
 despair. She eats everything, covers herself with a mat to 
 sleep, and makes a nest of grass or leaves, and wipes her face 
 with a leaf. 
 
 I presented my double-barreled gun which is at TJjiji to 
 Katomba, as he has been very kind when away from Ujiji : 
 I pay him thus for all his services. He gave me the soko,
 
 THROUGH A FOREST. 273 
 
 and will carry it to Ujiji for me ; I have tried to refund all 
 that the Arabs expended on me. 
 
 \st Jfarch, 1871. I was to start this morning, but the 
 Arabs asked me to take seven of their people going to buy 
 biramba, as they know the new way : the offer was gladly 
 accepted. 
 
 2nd-5th. Left Mamohela, and traveled over fine grassy 
 plains, crossing in six hours fourteen running rills, from three 
 to ten or fifteen feet broad, and from calf to thigh deep. 
 Tree-covered mountains on both sides. We came to Monan- 
 bunda's villages, and spent the night. Our next stage was at 
 Monangongo's. A small present of a few strings of beads 
 satisfies, but is not asked : I give it invariably as acknowledg- 
 ment for lodgmgs. The headman of our next stage hid him- 
 self in fear, as we were near to the scene of Bin Juma's 
 unprovoked slaughter of five men, for tusks that were not 
 stolen, but thrown down. Our path lay through dense forest, 
 and again, on 5th, our march was in the same dense jungle 
 of lofty trees and vegetation that touch our arms on each 
 side. 
 
 "We came to some villages among beautiful tree-covered 
 hills, called BasilangS or Mobasilange. The villages are very 
 pretty, standing on slopes. The main' street generally lies 
 east and west, to allow the bright sun to stream his clear hot 
 rays from one end to the other, and lick up quickly the 
 moisture from the frequent showers which is not drained off 
 by the slopes. A little veranda is often made in front of 
 the door, and here at dawn the family gathers round a fire, 
 and, while enjoying the heat needed in the cold that always 
 accompanies the first darting of the light or sun's rays across 
 the atmosphere, inhale the delicious air, and talk over their 
 little domestic affairs. The various shaped leaves of the 
 forest all around their village and near their nestlings are 
 bespangled with myriads of dewdrops. The cocks crow 
 vigorously, and strut and ogle ; the kids gambol and leap on 
 the backs of their dams quietly chewing the cud ; other goats 
 make believe fighting. Thrifty wives often bake their new
 
 274 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 clay-pots in a fire, made by lighting a heap of grass roots : 
 the next morning they extract salt from the ashes, and so two 
 birds are killed with one stone. The beauty of this morning 
 scene of peaceful enjoyment is indescribable. Infancy gilds 
 the fairy picture with its own lines, and it is probably never 
 forgotten, for the young, taken up from slavers, and treated 
 with all philanthropic missionary care and kindness, still 
 revert to the period of infancy as the finest and fairest they 
 have known. They would go back to freedom and enjoy- 
 ment as fast as would our own sons of the soil, and be heed- 
 less to the charms of hard work and no play which we think 
 so much better for them if not for us. 
 
 In some cases we found all the villages deserted; the 
 people had fled at our approach, in dread of repetitions of 
 the outrages of Arab slaves. The doors were all shut : a 
 bunch of the leaves of reeds or of green reeds placed across 
 them, means "no entrance here." A few stray chickens 
 wander about wailing, having hid themselves while the rest 
 were caught and carried off into the deep forest, and the still 
 smoking fires tell the same tale of recent flight from the 
 slave-traders. 
 
 Many have found out that I am not one of their number, 
 so in various cases they stand up and call out loudly, " Bo- 
 longo, Bolongo!" "Friendship, Friendship!" They sell 
 their fine iron bracelets eagerly for a few beads ; (for brace- 
 lets seem out of fashion since beads came in), but they are 
 of the finest quality of iron, and were they nearer Europe 
 would be as eagerly sought and bought as horse-shoe nails 
 are for the best gun-barrels. I overhear the Manyuema 
 telling each other that I am the "good one." I have no 
 slaves, and I owe this character to the propagation of a good 
 name by the slaves of Zanzibar, who are anything but good 
 themselves. I have seen slaves belonging to the seven men 
 now with us slap the cheeks of grown men who had offered 
 food for sale ; it was done in sheer wantonness, till I threat- 
 ened to thrash them if I saw it again ; but out of my sight 
 they did it still, and when I complained to the masters they
 
 THE MANYUEMA WOMEN. 275 
 
 confessed that all the mischief was done by slaves ; for the 
 Manyuema, on being insulted, lose temper and use their 
 spears on the nasty curs, and then vengeance is taken with 
 guns. Free men behave better than slaves; the bondmen 
 are not responsible. 
 
 The Manyuema are far more beautiful than either the 
 bond or free of Zanzibar ; I overhear the remark often, " If 
 we had Manyuema wives what beautiful children we should 
 beget." The men are usually handsome, and many of the 
 women are very pretty ; hands, feet, limbs, and forms perfect 
 in shape, and the color light-brown, but the orifices of the 
 nose are widened by snufl-takers, who ram it up as far as 
 they can with the finger and thumb : the teeth are not filed, 
 except a small space between the two upper front teeth. 
 
 5<A. We heard to-day that Mohamad's people passed us 
 on the west, with much ivory. I lose thus twenty copper 
 rings I was to take from them, and all the notes they were to 
 make for me of the rivers they crossed. 
 
 Qtfi. Passed through very large villages, with many forges 
 in active work ; some men followed us, as if to fight, but we 
 got them to turn peaceably : we don't know who are enemies, 
 so many have been maltreated and had relatives killed. The 
 rain of yesterday made the paths so slippery that the feet 
 of all were sorely fatigued, and on coming to Manyara's, I 
 resolved to rest on 7th near Mount Kimazi. I gave a cloth 
 and beads in lieu of a fine fat goat from the chief, a clever, 
 good man. 
 
 $th. We marched about five hours across a grassy plain 
 without trees buga or prairie. The torrid sun, nearly 
 vertical, sent his fierce rays down, and fatigued us all : we 
 crossed two Sokoye streams by bridges, and slept at a village 
 on a ridge of woodland overlooking Kasonga. After two 
 hours this morning, we came to villages of this chief, and at 
 one were welcomed by the Safari of Salem Mokadam, and I 
 was given a house. Kasonga is a very fine young man, with 
 European features, and "very clever and good." He is 
 clever, and is pronounced good, because he eagerly joins the
 
 276 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Arabs in marauding ! Seeing the advantage of fire-arms, lie 
 has bought four muskets. Mohamad's people were led by 
 his, and spent all their copper for some fifty frasilahs of good 
 ivory. From this party men have been sent over Lualaba, 
 and about fifty frasilahs obtained : all praise Kasonga. We 
 were now only six miles from Lualaba, and yet south of 
 Mamohela ; this great river, in fact, makes a second great 
 sweep to the west of some 130 miles, and there are at least 
 30' of southing ; but now it comes rolling majestically to the 
 north, and again makes even easting. It is a mighty stream, 
 with many islands in it, and is never wadeable at any point 
 or at any time of the year. 
 
 102A. Mohamad's people are said to have gone to Luapanya, 
 a powerful chief, who told them they were to buy all their 
 ivory from him : he had not enough, and they wanted to go 
 on to a people who have ivory door-posts ; but he said, " You 
 shall go neither forward nor backwards, but remain here," 
 and he then called an immense body of archers, and said, 
 "You must fight these." The consequence was they killed 
 Luapanya and many of his people. I wished to go from this 
 in canoes, but Kasonga has none, so I must tramp for five or 
 six days to Moene Lualaba to buy one, if I have credit with 
 Abed. 
 
 HtfA. I had a long, fierce oration from Amur, in which I 
 was told again and again that I should be killed and eaten 
 the people wanted a " white one " to eat ! I needed 200 
 guns ; and " must not go to die." I told him that I was 
 thankful for advice, if given by one who had knowledge, but 
 his vehement threats were dreams of one who had never 
 gone anywhere, but sent his slaves to kill people. He was 
 only frightening my people, and doing me an injury. I told 
 him that Baker had only twelve people, and came near to 
 this : to this he replied, " Were the people cannibals ? " 
 &c., &c. 
 
 I left this noisy demagogue, after saying I thanked him 
 for his warnings, but saw he knew not what he was saying. 
 The traders from Ujiji are simply marauders, and their
 
 SICK OP BLOOD. 277 
 
 people worse than themselves; they thirst for blood more 
 than for ivory ; each longs to be able to tell a tale of blood, 
 and the Manyuema are an easy prey. Hassani assaulted the 
 people at Moene Lualaba's, and now they keep to the other 
 bank, and I am forced to bargain with Kasonga for a canoe, 
 and he sends to a friend for one to be seen on the 13th. 
 This Hassani declared to me that he would not begin hostili- 
 ties, but he began nothing else; the prospect of getting 
 slaves overpowers all else, and blood flows in horrid streams. 
 The Lord look on it ! Hassani will have some tale to tell 
 Mohamad Bogharib. 
 
 15th. My men are not come back : I fear they are engaged 
 in some broil. In confirmation of what I write, some of the 
 party here assaulted a village of Kasonga's, killed three men 
 and captured women and children ; they pretended that they 
 did not know them to be his people, but they did not return 
 the captives. 
 
 20th. I am neartsore, and sick of human blood. 
 
 21st. Kasonga's brother's child died, and he asked me to 
 remain to-day while he buried the dead, and he would give 
 me a guide to-morrow ; being rainy, I stop willingly. Du- 
 gumbe is said to purpose going down the river to Kana- 
 gumbe River, to build on the land Kanagumbe, which is a 
 loop formed by the river, and is large. He is believed to 
 possess great power of divination, even of killing unfaithful 
 women. 
 
 22nd. I am detained another day by the sickness of one 
 of the party. Yery cold rain yesterday from the north-west. 
 I hope to go to-morrow towards the Kakoni, or great market 
 of this region. 
 
 23rd. Left Kasonga, who gave me a goat and a guide. 
 We reached Katenga's, about five miles off. There are many 
 villages, and people passed us carrying loads of provisions, 
 and cassava, from the chitoka or market. 
 
 24:th. Great rain in the night and morning, and sickness 
 of the men prevented our march. 
 
 25th. "Went to Mazimwe, 7K miles off.
 
 278 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 2Qth. "Went four miles and crossed the Kabwimaji. We 
 met a party from the traders at Kasonga, chiefly Matereka's 
 people under Salem and Syde bin Sultan ; they had eighty- 
 two captives, and say they fought ten days to secure them. 
 They had about twenty tusks, and carried one of their men 
 who broke his leg in fighting ; we shall be safe only when 
 past the bloodshed and murder. 
 
 27tfA. We went along a ridge of land overhanging a fine 
 valley of denudation, with well-cultivated hills in the dis- 
 tance, where Hassani's feat of bloodshed was performed. 
 There are many villages on the ridge, some rather tumble- 
 down ones, which always indicate some misrule. Our march 
 was about seven miles. A headman who went with us 
 plagued another chief to give me a goat ; I refused to take 
 what was not given willingly, but the slaves secured it ; and 
 I threatened our companion, Kama, with dismissal from our 
 party if he became a tool in slave hands. 
 
 %8th. The Banian slaves are again trying compulsion I 
 don't know what for. They refused to take their bead 
 rations, and made Chakanga spokesman : I could not listen 
 to it, as he has been concocting a mutiny against me. It is 
 excessively trying, and so many difficulties have been put in 
 my way I doubt whether the Divine favor and will is on my 
 side. 
 
 I am greatly distressed because there is no law here ; they 
 probably mean to create a disturbance at Abed's place, to 
 which we are near : the Lord look on it. 
 
 292A. Came YK miles to sleep at one of the outlying vil- 
 lages of Nyangwe : about sixty market people came past us 
 from the chitoka or market-place, on the banks of Lualaba ; 
 they go thither at night, and come away about midday, 
 having disposed of most of their goods by barter. The 
 country is open, and dotted over with trees, chiefly a species 
 of Bauhinia, that resists the annual grass burnings ; there are 
 trees along the water-courses, and many villages, each with a 
 host of pigs. 
 
 The headman's house, in which I was lodged, contained
 
 ARRIVES AT NYASGW& 279 
 
 the housewife's little conveniences, in the shape of forty pots, 
 dishes, baskets, knives, mats, all of which she removed to 
 another house : I gave her four strings of beads, and go on 
 to-morrow. Crossed the Kunda River and seven miles more 
 brought us to Nyangwe, where we found Abed and Hassani 
 had erected their dwellings, and sent their people over Lua- 
 laba, and as far west as the Loeki or Lomame. Abed said 
 that my words against bloodshedding had stuck into him, and 
 he had given orders to his people to give presents to the 
 chiefs, but never fight unless actually attacked. 
 
 31st. I went down to take a good look at the Lualaba 
 here. It is narrower than it is higher up, but still a mighty 
 river, at least 3,000 yards broad, and always deep: it can 
 never be waded at any point, or at any time of the year ; the 
 people unhesitatingly declare that if any one tried to ford it, 
 he would assuredly be lost. It has many large islands, and 
 at these it is about 2,000 yards, or one mile. The banks are 
 steep and deep ; there is clay, and a yellow-clay schist in their 
 structure ; the other rivers, as the Luya and Kunda, have 
 gravelly banks. The current is about two miles an hour away 
 to the north.
 
 CHAPTER XVni. 
 TRAGIC SCENES ON THE LTJALABA. 
 
 APRIL IST, 1871. The banks are well peopled, but one 
 must see the gathering at the market, of about 3000, 
 chiefly women, to judge of their numbers. They hold 
 market one day, and then omit attendance here for three 
 days, going to other markets at other points in the intervals. 
 It is a great institution in Manyuema: numbers seem to 
 inspire confidence, and they enforce justice for each other. 
 As a rule, all prefer to buy and sell in the market, to doing 
 business anywhere el^e ; if one says, " Come, sell me that 
 fowl or cloth," the reply is, "Come to the 'chitoka,' or 
 market-place." 
 
 Ind. To-day the market contained over a thousand people, 
 carrying earthen pots and cassava, grass cloth, fishes, and 
 fowls ; they were alarmed at my coming among them and 
 were ready to flee, many stood afar off in suspicion ; some 
 came from the other side of the river with their goods. 
 To-morrow market is held up river. 
 
 3rd, The people all fear us, and they have good reason 
 for it in the villainous conduct of many of the blackguard 
 half-castes which alarms them : I cannot get a canoe, so I 
 wait to see what will turn up. The river is said to overflow 
 all its banks annually, as the Nile does further down. I 
 sounded across yesterday. Near the bank it is 9 feet, the 
 rest 15 feet, and one cast in the middle was 20 feet : between 
 the islands 12 feet ; and 9 feet again in shore : it is a mighty 
 river truly.
 
 INGENIOUS CONTRIVANCE. 281 
 
 4th. The Arabs ask many questions about the Bible, and 
 want to know how many prophets have appeared, and prob- 
 ably say that they believe in them all ; while we believe all 
 but reject Mohamad. It is easy to drive them into a corner 
 by questioning, as they don't know whither the inquiries 
 lead, and they are not offended when their knowledge is, as 
 it were, admitted. When asked how many false prophets 
 are known, they appeal to my knowledge, and evidently 
 never heard of Balaam, the son of Beor, or of the 250 false 
 prophets of Jezebel and Ahab, or of the many lying prophets 
 referred to in the Bible. 
 
 Qth. 111 from drinking two cups of very sweet malofu, or 
 beer, made from bananas : I shall touch it no more. 
 
 1th. Made this ink with the seeds of a plant, called by 
 the Arabs Zugifare ; it is known in India, and is used here 
 by the Manyuema to dye virambos and ornament faces and 
 heads. I sent my people over to the other side to cut wood 
 to build a house for me ; the borrowed one has mud walls 
 and floors, which are damp, foul-smelling, and unwholesome. 
 I shall have grass walls, and grass and reeds on the floor of 
 my own house ; the ventilation will keep it sweet. This is 
 the season called Masika, the finishing rains, which we have 
 in large quantities almost every night, and I could scarcely 
 travel even if I had a canoe ; still it is trying to be kept back 
 by suspicion, and by the wickedness of the wicked. 
 
 Some of the Arabs try to be kind, and send cooked food 
 every day : Abed is the chief donor. I taught him to make 
 a mosquito-curtain of thin printed calico, for he had endured 
 the persecution of these insects helplessly, except by sleeping 
 on a high stage when they were unusually bad. 
 
 St/i. Every headman of four or five huts is a mologhwe, 
 or chief, and glories in being called so. 
 
 1CMA. Chitoka, or market, to-day. I counted upwards of 
 700 passing my door. With market women it seems to be a 
 pleasure of life to haggle and joke, and laugh and cheat : 
 many come eagerly, and retire with careworn faces ; many 
 are beautiful, and many old ; all carry very heavy loads of
 
 282 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 dried cassava and earthen pots, which they dispose of very 
 cheaply for palm-oil, fish, salt, pepper, and relishes for their 
 food. The men appear in gaudy lambas, and carry little 
 save their iron wares, fowls, grass cloth, and pigs. 
 
 Bought the fish with the long snouts : very good eating. 
 
 12th. New moon last night ; fourth Arab month : I am at 
 a loss for the day of the month. My new house is finished ; 
 a great comfort, for the other was foul and full of vermin : 
 bugs (Tapazi, or ticks), that follow wherever Arabs go, made 
 me miserable, but the Arabs are insensible to them ; Abed 
 alone had a mosquito-curtain, and he never could praise it 
 enough. One of his remarks is, " If slaves think you fear 
 them, they will climb over you." I clothed mine for noth- 
 ing, and ever after they have tried to ride roughshod over 
 me, and mutiny on every occasion ! 
 
 14A. Kahembe came over, and promises to bring a canoe ; 
 but he is not to be trusted ; he presented Abed with two 
 slaves, and is full of fair promises about the canoe, which he 
 sees I am anxious to get. They all think that my buying a 
 canoe means, carrying war to the left bank ; and now my 
 Banian slaves encourage the idea : " He does not wish slaves 
 nor ivory," say they, " but a canoe, in order to kill Manyuema." 
 Need it be wondered at that people, who had never heard 
 of strangers or white men before I popped down among 
 them, believed the slander? The slaves were aided in prop- 
 agating the false accusation by the half-caste Ujijian slaves 
 at the camp. Hassani fed them every day ; and, seeing that 
 he was a bigoted Moslem, they equaled him in prayers in 
 his sitting-place seven or eight times a day ! They were 
 adepts at lying, and the first Manyuema words they learned 
 were used to propagate falsehood. 
 
 19A. Dreary waiting, but Abed proposes to join and 
 trade along with me : this will render our party stronger, 
 and he will not shoot people in my company ; we shall hear 
 Katomba's people's story too. 
 
 20A. Katomba, a chief, was to visit us yesterday, but 
 failed, probably through fear.
 
 CANNIBALISM. 283 
 
 2Ist. The men here deny that cannibalism is common : 
 they eat only those killed in war, and, it seems, in revenge, 
 for, said Mokandira, " the meat is not nice ; it makes one 
 dream of the dead man." Some west of Lualaba eat even 
 those bought for the purpose of a feast ; but I am not quite 
 positive on this point : all agree in saying that human flesh 
 is saltish, and needs but little condiment. And yet they are 
 a fine-looking race ; I would back a company of Manyuema 
 men to be far superior in shape of head and generally in 
 physical form too against the whole Anthropological Society. 
 Many of the women are very light-colored and very pretty ; 
 they dress in a kilt of many folds of gaudy lambas. 
 
 2%nd. The Bagenya Chimbum came to visit me, but I 
 did not see him, nor did I know Moene Nyangwe till too 
 late to do him honor ; in fact, every effort was made to keep 
 me in the dark while the slavers of Ujiji made all smooth 
 for themselves to get canoes. All chiefs claim the privilege 
 of shaking hands, that is, they touch the hand held out with 
 their palm, then clap two hands together, then touch again, 
 and clap again, and the ceremony concludes : this frequency 
 of shaking hands misled me when the great man came. 
 
 25^A. News came that four men sent by Abed to buy 
 ivory had been entrapped, and two killed. The rest sent 
 for aid to punish the murderers, and Abed wished me to 
 send my people to bring the remaining two men back. I 
 declined ; because, no matter what charges I gave, my 
 Banian slaves would be sure to shed human blood. "We can 
 go nowhere but the people of the country ask us to kill 
 their fellow-men, nor can they be induced to go to villages 
 three miles off, because there, in all probability, live the 
 murderers of fathers, uncles, or grandfathers a dreadful 
 state truly. The traders are as bloodthirsty every whit as 
 the Manyuema, where no danger exists, but in most cases 
 where the people can fight they are as civil as possible. 
 At Moere Mpanda's, the son of Casembe, Mohamad Bog- 
 harib left a debt of twenty-eight slaves and eight bars of 
 copper, each seventy pounds, and did not dare to fire a shot
 
 284 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 because they saw they had met their match : here his head- 
 men are said to have bound the headmen of villages till a 
 ransom was paid in tusks ! 
 
 27tfA. Waiting wearily and anxiously; we cannot move 
 people who are far oif and make them come near with news. 
 Even the owners of canoes say, " Yes, yes ; we shall bring 
 them," but do not stir ; they doubt us, and my slaves increase 
 the distrust by their lies to the Manyuema. 
 
 2Sth. Abed sent over Manyuema to buy slaves for him 
 and got a pretty woman for 300 cowries and a hundred 
 strings of beads ; she can be sold again to an Arab for much 
 more in ivory. Abed himself gave $130 for a woman-cook, 
 and she fled to me when put in chains for some crime : I 
 interceded, and she was loosed : I advised her not to offend 
 again, because I could not beg for her twice. 
 
 1st May, 1871. Katomba's people arrived from the Babisa, 
 where they sold all their copper at two rings for a tusk, and 
 then found that abundance of ivory still remained : door-posts 
 and house-pillars had been made of ivory which now was 
 rotten. The people of Babisa kill elephants now and bring 
 tusks by the dozen, till the traders get so many that in this 
 case they carried them by three relays. They dress their 
 hair like the Bashukulompo, plaited into upright basket 
 helmets : no quarrel occurred, and great kindness was shown 
 to the strangers. 
 
 3rd. Abed informs me that a canoe will come in five 
 days. Word was sent after me by the traders south of us 
 not to aid me, as I was sure to die where I was going : the 
 wish is father to the thought ! Abed was naturally very 
 anxious to get first into the Babisa ivory market, yet he 
 tried to secure a canoe for me before he went, but he was 
 too eager, and a Manyuema man took advantage of his desire, 
 and came over the river and said that he had one hollowed 
 out, and he wanted goats and beads to hire people to drag it 
 down to the water. Abed on my account advanced five 
 goats, a thousand cowries, and many beads, and said that he 
 would tell me what he wished in return : this was debt, but
 
 A DISHONEST BOAT-BUILDER. 285 
 
 I was so anxious to get away I was content to take tlie canoe 
 on any terms. However, it turned out that the matter on 
 the part of the headman whom Abed trusted was all decep- 
 tion : he had no canoe at all, but knew of one belonging to 
 another man, and wished to get Abed and me to send men 
 to see it in fact, to go with their guns, and he would 
 manage to embroil them with the real owner, so that some 
 old feud should be settled to his satisfaction. On finding 
 that I declined to be led into his trap, he took a female slave 
 to the owner, and on his refusal to sell the canoe for her, it 
 came out that he had adopted a system of fraud to Abed. 
 He had victimized Abed, who was naturally inclined to 
 believe his false statements, and get off to the ivory market. 
 
 The Bakuss live near Lomame ; they were very civil and 
 kind to the strangers, but refused passage into the country. 
 At my suggestion, the effect of a musket-shot was shown on 
 a goat : they thought it supernatural, looked up to the clouds, 
 and offered to bring ivory to buy the charm that could draw 
 lightning down. "When it was afterwards attempted to force 
 a path, they darted aside on seeing the Banyamwezi's fol- 
 lowers putting the arrows into the bow-strings, but stood in 
 mute amazement looking at the guns, which mowed them 
 down in large numbers. They thought that muskets were 
 the insignia of chieftainship. Their chiefs all go with a long 
 straight staff of rattan, having a quantity of black medicine 
 smeared on each end, and no weapons in their hands : they 
 imagined that the guns were carried as insignia of the same 
 kind ; some, jeering in the south, called them big tobacco- 
 pipes ; they have no fear on seeing a gun leveled at them. 
 
 They use large and very long spears very expertly in the 
 long grass and forest of their country, and are terrible fellows 
 among themselves, and when they become acquainted with 
 fire-arms will be terrible to the strangers who now murder 
 them. The Manyuema say truly, " If it were not for your 
 guns, not one of you would ever return to your country:" 
 The Bakuss cultivate more than the southern Manyuema ; 
 common coffee is abundant, and they use it, highly scented
 
 286 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 with vanilla, which must be fertilized by insects ; they hand 
 round cups of it after meals. Pine-apples too are abundant. 
 They bathe regularly twice a day : their houses are of two 
 stories. The women have rather compressed heads, but very 
 pleasant countenances ; and ancient Egyptian, round, wide- 
 awake eyes. Their numbers are prodigious; the country 
 literally swarms with people, and a chief's town extends 
 upwards of a mile. But little of the primeval forest remains. 
 Many large pools of standing water have to be crossed, but 
 markets are held every eight or ten miles from each other, 
 and to these the people come from far, for the market is as 
 great an institution as shopping is with the civilized. Illicit 
 intercourse is punished by the whole of the offender's family 
 being enslaved. 
 
 The Bakuss smelt copper from the ore and sell it very 
 cheaply to the traders for beads. The project of going in 
 canoes now appeared to the half-castes so plausible, that 
 they all tried to get the Bagenya on the west bank to 
 lend them, and all went over to mix blood and make friends 
 with the owners, then all slandered me as not to be trusted, 
 as they their blood-relations were ; and my slaves mutinied 
 and would go no further. They mutinied three times here, 
 and Hassani harbored them till I told him that, if an Eng- 
 lish officer harbored an Arab slave he would be compelled 
 by the Consul to refund the price, and I certainly would not 
 let him escape ; this frightened him ; but I was at the mercy 
 of slaves who had no honor, and no interest in going into 
 danger. 
 
 16M. At least 3000 people at market to-day, and my 
 going among them has taken away the fear engendered by 
 the slanders of slaves and traders, for all are pleased to tell 
 me the names of the fishes and other things. Lepidosirens 
 are caught by the neck and lifted out of the pot to show 
 their fatness. Camwood ground and made into flat cakes 
 for Bale and earthen balls, such as are eaten in the disease 
 safura or earth-eating, are offered and there is quite a roar of 
 voices in the multitude, haggling. It was pleasant to be
 
 A CONSPIRACY. 287 
 
 among them compared to being with the slaves, who were 
 all eager to go back to Zanzibar : some told me that they 
 were slaves, and required a free man to thrash them, and 
 proposed to go back to TJjiji for one. I saw no hope of 
 getting on with them, and anxiously longed for the arrival 
 of Dugumbe ; and at last Abed overheard them plotting my 
 destruction. " If forced to go on, they would watch till the 
 first difficulty arose with the Manyuema, then fire off their 
 guns, run away, and as I could not run as fast as they, leave 
 me to perish." Abed overheard them speaking loudly, and 
 advised me strongly not to trust myself to them any more, 
 as they would be sure to cause my death. He was all along 
 a sincere friend, and I could not but take his words as well- 
 meant and true. 
 
 18th. Abed gave me 200 cowries and some green beads. 
 I was at the point of disarming my slaves and driving them 
 away, when they relented, and professed to be willing to go 
 anywhere ; so, being eager to finish my geographical work, I 
 said I would run the risk of their desertion, and gave beads 
 to buy provisions for a start north. I cannot state how 
 much I was worried by these wretched jslaves, who did much 
 to annoy me, with the sympathy of all the slaving crew. 
 When baffled by untowajd circumstances the bowels plague 
 me too, and discharges of blood relieve the headache, and 
 are as safety-valves to the system. I was nearly persuaded 
 to allow Mr. Syme to operate on me when last in England, 
 but an old friend told me that his own father had been 
 operated on by the famous John Hunter, and died in conse- 
 quence at the early age of forty. His advice saved me, for 
 this complaint has been my safety-valve. 
 
 20//. Abed called Kalonga the headman, who beguiled 
 him as I soon found, and delivered the canoe he had bought 
 formally to me, and went off down the Lualaba on foot to 
 buy the Babisa ivory. I was to follow in the canoe ar.d 
 wait for him in the River Luera, but soon I ascertained that 
 the canoe was still in the forest, and did not belong to 
 Kalonga. On demanding back the price he said, " Let Abed
 
 288 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 come and I will give it to him ; " then when I sent to force 
 him to give up the goods, all his village fled into the forest : 
 I now tried to buy one myself from the Bagenya, but there 
 was no chance ; so long as the half-caste traders needed any 
 they got all nine large canoes, and I could not secure one. 
 
 %4th. The market is a busy scene everyone is in dead 
 earnest little time is lost in friendly greetings ; vendors of 
 fish run about with potsherds full of snails or small fishes 
 smoke-dried and spitted on twigs, or other relishes to 
 exchange for cassava roots dried after being steeped about 
 three days in water potatoes, vegetables, or grain, bananas, 
 flour, palm-oil, fowls, salt, pepper ; each is intensely eager to 
 barter food for relishes, and makes strong assertions as to the 
 goodness or badness of everything : the sweat stands in beads 
 or their faces cocks crow briskly, even when slung over the 
 shoulder with their heads hanging down, and pigs squeal. 
 Iron knobs, drawn out at each end to show the goodness of 
 the metal, are exchanged for cloth of the Muabe palm. They 
 have a large funnel of basket-work below the vessel holding 
 the wares, and slip the goods down if they are not to be 
 seen. They deal fairly, and when differences arise they are 
 easily settled by the men interfering or pointing to me: 
 they appeal to each other, and have a strong sense of 
 natural justice. 
 
 With so much food changing hands amongst three thou- 
 sand attendants much benefit is derived ; some come from 
 twenty to twenty-five miles. The men flaunt about in 
 gaudy-colored lambas of many folded kilts the women work 
 hardest the potters slap and ring their earthenware all 
 round, to show that there is not a single flaw in them. I 
 bought two finely shaped earthen bottles of porous earthen- 
 ware, to hold a gallon each; for one string of beads, the 
 women carry huge loads of them in their funnels above the 
 baskets, strapped to the shoulders and forehead, and their 
 hands are full besides ; the roundness of the vessels is won- 
 derful, seeing no machine is used : no slaves could be induced 
 to carry half as much as they do willingly. It is a scene of
 
 SCENES IN THE MARKET. 289 
 
 the finest natural acting imaginable. The eagerness with 
 which all sorts of assertions are made the eager earnestness 
 with which apparently all creation, above, around, and 
 beneath, is called on to attest the truth of what they allege 
 and then the intense surprise and withering scorn cast on 
 those who despise their goods : but they show no concern 
 when the buyers turn up their noses at them. Little girls 
 run about selling cups of water for a few small fishes to the 
 half-exhausted wordy combatants. To me it was an amusing 
 scene. I could not understand the words that flowed off 
 their glib tongues, but the gestures were too expressive to 
 need interpretation. 
 
 272A. Hassani told me that since he had come, no Manyu- 
 ema had ever presented him with a single mouthful of food, 
 not even a potato or banana, and he had made many presents. 
 Going from him into the market I noticed that one man 
 presented a few small fishes, another a sweet potato and a 
 piece of cassava, and a third two small fishes, but the 
 Manyuema are not a liberal people. Old men and women 
 who remained in the half-deserted villages we passed through 
 in coming north, often ran forth to present me with 
 bananas, but it seemed through fear ; when I sat down and 
 ate the bananas, they brought beer of bananas, and I paid for 
 all. A stranger in the market had ten human under jaw-bones 
 hung by a string over his shoulder : on inquiry he professed 
 to have killed and eaten the owners, and showed with his 
 knife how he cut up his victim. When I expressed disgust 
 he and others laughed. I see new faces every market-day. 
 Two nice girls were trying to sell their venture which was 
 roasted white ants, called " Guinbe." 
 
 14A June, 1871. Hassani got nine canoes, and put sixty- 
 three persons in three : I cannot get one. Dugumbe reported 
 near, but detained by his divination, at which he is an 
 expert; hence his native name is " Molembalemba " 
 " writer, writing." 
 
 ~L8th. Dugumbe arrived, but passed to Moene Nyangwe's, 
 and found that provisions were so scarce and dear there, as
 
 290 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 compared with our market, that he was fain to come back to 
 us. He has a large party and 500 guns. He is determined 
 to go into new fields of trade, and has all his family with 
 him, and intends to remain six or seven years, sending 
 regularly to Ujiji for supplies of goods. 
 
 20A. Two of Dugumbe's party brought presents of four 
 large fundos of beads each. All know that my goods are 
 unrighteously detained by Shereef and they show me kind- 
 ness, which I return by some fine calico which I have. 
 Among the first words Dugumbe said to me were, "Why 
 your own slaves are your greatest enemies : I will buy you a 
 canoe, but the Banian slaves' slanders have put all the Man- 
 yuema against you." I knew that this was true, and that 
 they were conscious of the sympathy of the Ujijiau traders, 
 who hate to have me here. 
 
 %th. Hassani's canoe party in the river were foiled by 
 narrows, after they had gone down four da^s. Rocks jut 
 out on both sides, not opposite, but alternate to each other ; 
 and the vast mass of water of the great river jammed in, 
 rushes round one promontory on to another, and a frightful 
 whirlpool is formed in which the first canoe went and was 
 overturned, and five lives lost. Had I been there, mine 
 would have been the first canoe, for the traders would have 
 made it a point of honor to give me the precedence (although 
 actually to make a feeler of me), while they looked on in 
 safety. The men in charge of Hassani's canoes were so 
 frightened by this accident that they at once resolved to 
 return, though they had arrived in the country of the ivory : 
 they never looked to see whether the canoes could be dragged 
 past the narrows, as anyone else would have done. No better 
 luck could be expected after all their fraud and duplicity in 
 getting the canoes ; no harm lay in obtaining them, but why 
 try to prevent me getting one I 
 
 27th. In answer to my prayers for preservation, I was 
 prevented going down to the narrows, formed by a dyke of 
 mountains cutting across country, and jutting a little ajar, 
 which makes the water in an enormous mass wheel round
 
 BURNING OF VILLAGES. 291 
 
 behind it helplessly, and if the canoes reach the rock against 
 which the water dashes, they are almost certainly overturned. 
 As this same dyke probably cuts across country to Lomame, 
 my plan of going to the confluence and then up won't do, for 
 I should have to go up rapids there. Again, 1 was prevented 
 from going down Luamo, and on the north of its confluence 
 another cataract mars navigation in the Lualaba, and my 
 safety is thereby secured. We don't always know the dangers 
 that we are guided past. 
 
 28th. Eight villages are in flames, set fire to by a slave of 
 Syde bin Habib, called Manilla, who thus shows his blood 
 friends of the Bagenya how well he can fight against the 
 Mohombo, whose country the Bagenya want ! The stragglers 
 of this camp are over on the other side helping Manilla, and 
 catching fugitives and goats. The Bagenya are fishermen by 
 taste and profession, and sell the produce of their nets and 
 weirs to those who cultivate the soil, at the different markets. 
 Manilla's foray is for an alleged debt of three slaves, and ten 
 villages are burned. 
 
 30th. Hassani pretended that he was not aware of Manil- 
 la's foray, and when I denounced it to Manilla himself, he 
 showed that he was a slave, by cringing and saying nothing 
 except something about the debt of three slaves. 
 
 1st July, 1871. I made known my plan to Dugumbe, 
 which was to go west with his men to Lomame, then by his 
 aid buy a canoe and go up Lake Lincoln to Katanga and the 
 fountains, examine the inhabited caves, and return here, if 
 he would let his people bring me goods from Ujiji ; he again 
 referred to all the people being poisoned in mind against me, 
 but was ready to do everything in his power for my success. 
 My own people persuaded the Bagenya not to sell a canoe: 
 Hassini knows it all, but swears that he did not join in the 
 slander, and even points up to Heaven in attestation of 
 innocence of all, even of Manilla's foray. Mohamadans are 
 certainly famous as liars, and the falsehood of Mohamad has 
 been transmitted to his followers in a measure unknown in 
 other religions.
 
 292 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 4th. Hassani off down river in high dudgeon at the 
 cowards who turned after reaching the ivory country. He 
 leaves them here and goes himself, entirely on land. 
 
 5th. I offer Duguinbe $2,000, or 4001, for ten men to 
 replace the Banian slaves, and enable me to go up the 
 Lomame to Katanga and the underground dwellings, then 
 return and go up by Tanganyika to Ujiji, and I added that I 
 would give all the goods I had at Ujiji besides : he took a few 
 days to consult with his associates. 
 
 6th. Mokandira, and other headmen, came with a present 
 of a pig and a goat on my being about to depart west. I 
 refused to receive them till my return, and protested against 
 the slander of my wishing to kill people, which they all 
 knew, but did not report to me: this refusal and protest will 
 ring all over the country. 
 
 1th. I was annoyed by a woman frequently beating a 
 slave near my house, but on my reproving her she came and 
 apologized. I told her to speak softly to her slave, as she 
 was now the only mother the girl had; the slave came 
 from beyond Lomame, and was evidently a lady in her own 
 land ; she calls her son Mologwe, or chief, because his father 
 was a headman. 
 
 Dugumbe advised my explaining my plan of procedure to 
 the slaves, and he evidently thinks that I wish to carry it 
 towards them with a high hand. I did explain all the 
 exploration I intended to do : for instance, the fountains of 
 Herodotus beyond Katanga Katanga itself, and the under- 
 ground dwellings, and then return. They made no remarks, 
 for they are evidently pleased to have me knuckling down to 
 them ; when pressed on the point of proceeding, they say 
 they will only go with Dugumbe's men to the Lomame, and 
 then return. 
 
 10A. Manyuema children do not creep, as European 
 children do, on their knees, but begin by putting forward one 
 foot and using one knee. Generally a Manyuema child uses 
 both feet and both hands, but never both knees: one Arab 
 child did the same; he never crept, but got up on both 
 feet, holding on till he could walk.
 
 DISTRESSED AND PERPLEXED. 293 
 
 llth. Dugumbe's horde tried to deal in the market in a 
 domineering way. "I shall buy that," said one. "These 
 are mine," said another ; " no one must touch them but me ;" 
 but the market-women taught them that they could not 
 monopolize, but deal fairly. They are certainly clever 
 traders, and keep each other in countenance ; they stand by 
 each other, and will not allow overreaching, and they give 
 food astonishingly cheap : once in the market they have no 
 fear. 
 
 12rfAr-13#A. The Banian slaves declared before Dugumbe 
 that they would go to the River Lomame, but no further : 
 he spoke long to them, but they will not consent to go further. 
 When told that they would thereby lose all their pay, they 
 replied "Yes, but not our lives," and they walked off from 
 him muttering, which is insulting to one of his rank. I 
 then added, "I have goods at Ujiji; I don't know how 
 many, but they are considerable, take them all, and give me 
 men to finish my work ; if not enough, I will add to them, 
 only do not let me be forced to return now I am so near the 
 end of my undertaking." He said he would make a plan in 
 conjunction with his associates, and report to me. 
 
 14A. I am distressed and perplexed what to do so as not 
 to be foiled, but all seems against me. 
 
 15A. The reports of guns on the other side of the 
 Lualaba all the morning tell of the people of Dugnmbe 
 murdering those of Kimburu and others who mixed blood 
 with Manilla. " Manilla is a slave, and how dares he to mix 
 blood with chiefs who ought only to make friends with free 
 men like us" this is their complaint. Kimburu gave 
 Manilla three slaves, and he sacked ten villages in token of 
 friendship ; he proposed to give Dugumbe nine slaves in the 
 same operation, but Dugumbe's people destroy his villages, 
 and shoot and make his people captives to punish Manilla ; 
 to make an impression, in fact, in the country that they alone 
 are to be dealt with " make friends with us, and not with 
 Manilla or any one else " such is what they insist upon. 
 
 About 1500 people came to market, though many villages
 
 29J: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 of those that usually come from the other side were now in 
 flames, and every now and then a number of shots were fired 
 on the fugitives. 
 
 It was a hot, sultry day, and when I went into the market 
 I saw Adie and Manilla, and three of the men who had lately 
 come with Dugtimbe. I was surprised to see these three 
 with their guns, and felt inclined to reprove them, as one of 
 my men did, for bringing weapons into the market ; but I 
 attributed it to their ignorance, and, it being very hot, I was 
 walking away to go out of the market, when I saw one of the 
 fellows haggling about a fowl, and seizing hold of it. Before 
 I had got thirty yards out, the discharge of two guns in the 
 middle of the crowd told me that slaughter had begun: 
 crowds dashed off from the place, and threw down their 
 wares in confusion, and ran. At the same time that the 
 three opened fire on the mass of people near the upper end 
 of the market-place, volleys were discharged from a party 
 down near the creek on the panic-stricken women, who 
 dashed at the canoes. These, some fifty or more, were 
 jammed in the creek, and the men forgot their paddles in the 
 terror that seized all. The canoes were not to be got out, 
 for the creek was too small for so many ; men and women, 
 wounded by the balls, poured into them, and leaped and 
 scrambled into the water, shrieking. A long line of heads 
 in the river showed that great numbers struck out for an 
 island a full mile off : in going towards it they had to put 
 the left shoulder to a current of about two miles an hour; if 
 they had struck away diagonally to the opposite bank, the 
 current would have aided them, and, though nearly three 
 miles off, some would have gained land: as it was, the heads 
 above water showed the long line of those that would 
 inevitably perish. 
 
 Shot after shot continued to be fired on the helpless and 
 perishing. Some of the long line of heads disappeared 
 quietly ; while other poor creatures threw their arms high, 
 as if appealing to the great Father above, and sank. One 
 canoe took in as many as it could hold, and all paddled with
 
 FIENDISH MASSACRE. 297 
 
 hands and arms : three canoes, got out in haste, picked up 
 sinking friends, till all went down together, and disappeared. 
 One man in a long canoe, which could have held forty or 
 fifty, had clearly lost his head; he had been out in the 
 stream before the massacre began, and now paddled up the 
 river nowhere, and never looked to the drowning. By-and- 
 by all the heads disappeared ; some had turned down stream 
 towards the bank, and escaped. Dugum'be put people into 
 one of the deserted vessels to save those in the water, and 
 saved twenty-one, but one woman refused to be taken on 
 board from thinking that she was to be made a slave of ; 
 she preferred the chance of life by swimming, to the lot of a 
 slave : the Bagenya women are expert in the water, as they 
 are accustomed to dive for oysters, and those who went 
 down stream may have escaped, but the Arabs themselves 
 estimated the loss of life at between 330 and 400 souls. The 
 shooting-party near the canoes were so reckless, they killed 
 two of their own people ; and a Banyamwezi follower, who 
 got into a deserted canoe to plunder, fell into the water, 
 went down, then came up again, and down to rise no more. 
 
 My first impulse was to pistol the murderers, but Dugumbe 
 protested against my getting into a blood-feud, and I was 
 thankful afterwards that I took his advice. Two wretched 
 Moslems asserted " that the firing was done by the people of 
 the English ; " I asked one of them why he lied so, and he 
 could utter no excuse : no other falsehood came to his aid as 
 he stood abashed before me, and so telling him not to tell 
 palpable falsehoods, I left him gaping. 
 
 After the terrible affair in the water, the party of Taga- 
 moio, who was the chief perpetrator, continued to fire on 
 the people there and fire their villages. As I write I hear 
 the loud wails on the left bank over those who are there 
 slain, ignorant of their many friends now in the depths of 
 Lualaba. Oh, let Thy kingdom come ! No one will ever 
 know the exact loss on this bright sultry summer morning ; 
 it gave me the impression of being in Hell. All the slaves 
 in the camp rushed at the fugitives on land, and plundered
 
 298 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 them : women were for hours collecting and carrying loads 
 of what had been thrown down in terror. 
 
 Some escaped to me and were protected : Dugumbe saved 
 twenty-one, and of his own accord liberated them ; they were 
 brought to me, and remained over night near my house. One 
 woman of the saved had a musket-ball through the thigh, 
 another in the arm. I sent men with our flag to save some, 
 for without a flag they might have been victims, for Tagamoio's 
 people were shooting right and left like fiends. I counted 
 twelve villages burning this morning. I asked the question 
 of Dugumbe and others, "Now for what -is all this murder?" 
 All blamed Manilla as its cause, and in one sense he was the 
 cause ; but it is hardly credible that they repeat it in order 
 to be avenged on Manilla for making friends with headmen, 
 he being a slave. I cannot believe it fully. The wish to 
 make an impression in the country as to the importance and 
 greatness of the new comers was the most potent motive ; 
 but it was terrible that the murdering of so many should be 
 contemplated at all. It made me sick at heart. Who could 
 accompany the people of Dugumbe and Tagaraoio to Lomame 
 and be free from blood-guiltiness ! 4 
 
 I proposed to Dugumbe to catch the murderers, and hang 
 them up in the market-place, as our protest against the bloody 
 deeds before the Manyuema. If, as he and others added, 
 the massacre was committed by Manilla's people, he would 
 have consented ; but it was done by Tagamoio's people, and 
 others of this party, headed by Dugumbe. This slaughter 
 was peculiarly atrocious, inasmuch as we have always heard 
 that women coming to or from market have never been 
 known to be molested : even when two districts are engaged 
 in actual hostilities, " the women," say they, " pass among 
 us to market unmolested," nor has one ever been known to 
 be plundered by the men. These Nigger Moslems are infe- 
 rior to the Manyuema in justice and right. The people 
 under Hassani began the superwickedness of capture and 
 pillage of all indiscriminately. Dugumbe promised to send 
 over men to order Tagamoio's men to cease firing and
 
 CAPTIVES RESTORED. 299 
 
 burning villages; they remained over among the ruins, 
 feasting on goats and fowls all night, and next day (16th) 
 continued their infamous work till twenty-seven villages 
 were destroyed. 
 
 16th. I restored upwards of thirty of the rescued to their 
 friends: Dugumbe seemed to act in good faith, and kept 
 none of them ; it was his own free will that guided him. 
 Women are delivered to their husbands, and about thirty- 
 three canoes left in the creek are to be kept for the owners 
 too. 
 
 12 A. M. Shooting still going on on the other side, and 
 many captives caught. At 1 P. M. Tagamoio's people began 
 to cross over in canoes, beating their drums, firing their 
 guns, and shouting, as if to say, " See the conquering heroes 
 come;" they are answered by the women of Dugumbe's 
 camp lullilooing, and friends then fire off their guns in joy. 
 I count seventeen villages in flames, and the smoke goes 
 straight up and forms clouds at the top of the pillar, showing 
 great heat evolved, for the houses are full of carefully- 
 prepared firewood. Dugumbe denies having sent Tagamoio 
 on this foray, and Tagamoio repeats that he went to punish 
 the friends made by Manilla, who, being a slave, had no 
 right to make war and burn villages ; that could only be done 
 by free men. Manilla confesses to me privately that he did 
 wrong in that, and loses all his beads and many friends in 
 consequence. 
 
 2 P. M. An old man, called Kabobo, came for his old wife ; 
 1 asked her if this were her husband ; she went to him, and 
 put her arm lovingly around him, and said " Yes." I gave 
 her five strings of beads to buy food, all her stores being 
 destroyed with her house ; she bowed down, and put her 
 forehead to the ground as thanks, and old Kabobo did the 
 same : the tears stood in her eyes as she went off. Taga- 
 moio caught 17 women, and other Arabs of his party, 27; 
 dead by gunshot, 25. The heads of two headmen were 
 brought over to be redeemed by their friends with slaves. 
 
 3 P. M. Many of the headmen who have been burned out
 
 300 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 by the foray came over to me, and begged me to come back 
 with them and appoint new localities for them to settle in 
 again ; but I told them that I was so ashamed of the com- 
 pany in which I found myself, that I could scarcely look 
 the Manyuema in the face. They had believed- that I 
 wished to kill them what did they think now ? I could 
 not remain among bloody companions, and would flee away, 
 I said, but they begged me hard not to leave until they were 
 again settled. 
 
 The open murder perpetrated on hundreds of unsuspecting 
 women fills me with unspeakable horror : I cannot think of 
 going anywhere with the Tagamoio crew ; I must either go 
 down or up Lualaba, whichever the Banian slaves choose. 
 
 4 P. M. Dugumbe saw that by killing the market people 
 he had committed a great error, and speedily got the chiefs 
 who had come over to me to meet him at his house, and 
 forthwith mix blood : they were in bad case. I could not 
 remain to see to their protection, and Dugumbe, being the best 
 of the whole horde, I advised them to make friends, and then 
 appeal to him as able to restrain to some extent his infa- 
 mous underlings. One chief asked to have his wife and 
 daughter restored to him first, but generally they were cowed, 
 and the fear of death was on them. Dugumbe said to me, 
 " I shall do my utmost to get all the captives, but he must 
 make friends now, in order that the market may not be given 
 up." Blood was mixed, and an essential condition was, 
 "You must give us chitoka," or market. He and most others 
 saw that in theoretically punishing Manilla, they had slaught- 
 ered the very best friends that strangers had. The Banian 
 slaves openly declare that they will go only to Lomame, and 
 no further. Whatever the Ujijian slavers may pretend, they 
 all hate to have me as a witness of their cold-blooded atroci- 
 ties. The Banian slaves would like to go with Tagamoio, 
 and share in his rapine and get slaves. I tried to go down 
 Lualaba, then up it, and west, but with bloodhounds it is out 
 of the question. I see nothing for it but to go back to Ujiji 
 for other men. though it will throw me out of the chance of
 
 AGONY OF MIND. 301 
 
 discovering the fourth great lake in the Lualaba line of 
 drainage, and other things of great value. 
 
 At last I said that I would start for Ujiji in three days, on 
 foot. I wished to speak to Tagamoio about the captive 
 relations of the chiefs, but he always ran away when he saw 
 me coming. 
 
 Ylth. All the rest of Dugumbe's party offered me a share 
 of every kind of goods they had, and pressed me not to be 
 ashamed to tell them what I needed. I declined everything 
 save a little gunpowder, but they all made presents of beads, 
 and I was glad to return equivalents in cloth. It is a sore 
 affliction, at least forty-five days in a straight line equal to 
 300 miles, or by the turnings and windings 600 English 
 miles, and all after feeding and clothing the Banian slaves 
 for twenty-one months ! But it is for the best though ; if I 
 do not trust to the riffraff of Ujiji, I must wait for other men 
 at least ten months there. With help from above I shall yet 
 go through Rua, see the underground excavations first, then 
 on to Katanga, and the four ancient fountains eight days 
 beyond, and after that Lake Lincoln. 
 
 ISth. The murderous assault on the market people felt to 
 me like Gehenna, without the fire and brimstone ; but the 
 heat was oppressive, and the fire-arms pouring their iron 
 bullets on the fugitives, was not an inapt representative of 
 burning in the bottomless pit. 
 
 The terrible scenes of man's inhumanity to man brought 
 on severe headache, which might have been serious had it 
 not been relieved by a copious discharge of blood ; I was laid 
 up all yesterday afternoon, with the depression the blood- 
 shed made, it filled me with unspeakable horror. " Don't 
 go away," say the Manyuema chiefs to me ; but I cannot stay 
 here in agony. 
 
 19<A. Dugumbe sent me a fine goat, a maneh of gun- 
 powder, a maneh of fine blue beads, and 230 cowries, to buy 
 provisions in the way. I proposed to leave a doti Merikano 
 and one of Kanike to buy specimens of workmanship. He 
 sent me two very fine large Manyuema swords, and two
 
 302 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 equally fine spears, and said that I must not leave anything ; 
 he would buy others with his own goods, and divide them 
 equally with me : he is very friendly. 
 
 River fallen 4- feet since the 5th ult. 
 
 A few market people appear to-day, formerly they came in 
 crowds : a very few from the west bank bring salt to buy 
 back the baskets from the camp slaves, which they threw 
 away in panic, others carried a little food for sale, about 200 
 in all, chiefly those who have not lost relatives : one very 
 beautiful woman had a gunshot wound in her upper arm tied 
 round with leaves. Seven canoes came instead of fifty ; 
 but they have great tenacity and hopefulness, an old estab- 
 lished custom has great charms for them, and the market 
 will again be attended if no fresh outrage is committed. No 
 canoes now come into the creek of death, but land above, 
 at Ntambwe's village : this creek, at the bottom of the long 
 gentle slope on which the market was held, probably led to 
 its selection. 
 
 A young Manyuema man worked for one of Dugumbe's 
 people preparing a space to build on ; when tired, he refused 
 to commence to dig a pit, and was struck on the loins with 
 an axe, and soon died : he was drawn out of the way, and his 
 relations came, wailed over him, and buried him : they are 
 too much awed to complain to Dugumbe ! !
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 THE KETKEAT TO UJIJ I LIVINGSTONE FOUND. 
 
 JULY 20TH, 1871. I start back for Ujiji. All Dugumbe's 
 people came to say good-bye, and convoy me a little 
 way. I made a short march, for being long inactive it is 
 unwise to tire oneself on the first day, as it is then difficult 
 to get over the effects. 
 
 21*. One of the slaves was sick and the rest falsely 
 reported him to be seriously ill, to give them time to nego- 
 tiate for women with whom they had cohabited : Dugumbe 
 saw through the fraud, and said, " Leave him to me : if he 
 lives I will feed him ; if he dies, we will bury him : do not 
 delay for any one, but travel in a compact body, as stragglers 
 now are sure to be cut off." He lost a woman of his party, 
 who lagged behind, and seven others were killed besides, 
 and the forest hid the murderers. I was only too anxious 
 to get away quickly, and on the 22nd started off at daylight, 
 and went about six miles to the village of Mankwara, where 
 I spent the night when coming this way. 
 
 23n-24tfA. "We crossed the Kiver Kunda, in two canoes, 
 and then ascended from the valley of denudation, in which 
 it flows to the ridge Lobango. Crowds followed, all anxious 
 to carry loads for a few beads. Several market people came 
 to salute, who knew that we had no hand in the massacre, as 
 we are a different people from the Arabs. In going and 
 coming they must have a march of 25 miles with loads so 
 heavy no slave would carry them. They speak of us as 
 " good : " the anthropologists think that to be spoken of as 
 Q
 
 304: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 wicked is better. Ezekiel says that the Most High put His 
 comeliness upon Jerusalem : if He does not impart of His 
 goodness to me I shall never be good : if He does not put of 
 His comeliness on me I shall never be comely in soul, but be 
 like these Arabs in whom Satan has full sway the god of 
 this world having blinded their eyes. 
 
 25tfA. We came over a beautiful country yesterday, a vast 
 hollow of denudation with much cultivation, intersected by a 
 ridge some 300 feet high, on which the villages are built : 
 this is Lobango. After crossing the fast flowing Kahembai, 
 we rose on to another intersecting ridge, having a great 
 many villages burned by Matereka or Salem Mokadam's 
 people, since we passed them in our course N. W. They 
 had slept on the ridge after we saw them, and next morning, 
 in sheer wantonness, fired their lodgings, their slaves had 
 evidently carried the fire along from their lodgings, and set 
 fire to houses of villages in their route as a sort of horrid 
 Moslem Nigger joke ; it was done only because they could 
 do it without danger of punishment: it was such fun to 
 make the Mashense, as they call all natives, houseless. Men 
 are worse than beasts of prey, if indeed it is lawful to call 
 Zanzibar slaves men. It is monstrous injustice to compare 
 free Africans living under their own chiefs and laws, and 
 cultivating their own free lands, with what slaves afterwards 
 become at Zanzibar and elsewhere. 
 
 26A. Four men passed us in hot haste to announce the 
 death of a "woman at their village to her relations living at 
 another. Twenty-two men with large square black shields, 
 capable of completely hiding the whole person, came next in 
 a trot to receive the body of their relative and all her gear 
 to carry her to her own home for burial : about twenty women 
 followed them, and the men waited under the trees till they 
 should have wound the body up and wept over her. They 
 smeared their bodies with clay, and their faces with soot. 
 Reached our friend Kama. 
 
 27^A. Left Kama's group of villages and went through 
 many others before we reached Kasongo's, and were welcomed
 
 A MOUNTAIN DEFILE. 305 
 
 by all the Arabs of the camp at this place. Bought two 
 milk goats reasonably, and rest over Sunday. They asked 
 permission to send a party with me for goods to Ujiji; 
 this will increase our numbers, and perhaps safety too, 
 among the justly irritated people between this and Bambarre. 
 All are enjoined to help me, and of course I must do the 
 same to them. 
 
 3CtfA. They send thirty tusks to Ujiji, and seventeen 
 Manyuema volunteers to carry thither and back : these are 
 the very first who in modern times have ventured fifty miles 
 from the place of their birth. I came only three miles 
 to a ridge overlooking the River Shokoye, and slept at vil- 
 lage on a hill beyond it. 
 
 31*. Passed through the defile between Mount Kimazi 
 and Mount Kijila. Below the cave with stalactite pillar in 
 its door a fine echo answers those who feel inclined to shout 
 to it. Come to Mangala's numerous villages, and two slaves 
 being ill, rest on Wednesday. 
 
 1st August, 1871. A large market assembles close to us. 
 
 2nd. Left Mangala's and came through a great many 
 villages all deserted on our approach on account of the 
 vengeance taken by Dugumbe's party for the murder of 
 some of their people. Kasongo's men appeared eager to 
 plunder their own countrymen : I had to scold and threaten 
 them, and set men to watch their deeds. Came to Kittette, 
 and lodge in a village of Loembo. About thirty foundries 
 were passed ; they are very high in the roof, and thatched 
 with leaves, from which the sparks roll off as sand would. 
 Rain runs off equally well. 
 
 3rd. Three slaves escaped, and not to abandon ivory we 
 wait a day ; Kasongo came up and filled their places. 
 
 I have often observed effigies of men made of wood in 
 Manyuema ; some of clay are simply cones with a small hole 
 in the top ; on asking about them here, I for the first time 
 obtained reliable information. They are called Bathata 
 fathers or ancients and the name of each is carefully 
 preserved. Those here at Kittette were evidently the names
 
 306 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 of chiefs, Molenda being the most ancient. The old men 
 told me that on certain occasions they offer goat's flesh to 
 them : men eat it, and allow no young person or women to 
 partake. The flesh of the parrot is only eaten by very old 
 men. They say that if eaten by young men their children 
 will have the waddling gait of the bird. 
 
 4th. Came through miles of villages all burned because 
 the people refused a certain Abdullah lodgings ! The men 
 had begun to re-thatch the huts, and kept out of our way, 
 but a goat was speared by some one in hiding, and we knew 
 danger was near. Abdullah admitted that he had no other 
 reason for burning them than the unwillingness of the 
 people to lodge him and his slaves without payment, with the 
 certainty of getting their food stolen and utensils destroyed. 
 
 5thr-th. Through many miles of palm-trees and plantains 
 to a Boma or stockaded village, where we slept, though the 
 people were evidently suspicious and unfriendly. 
 
 lih. To a village, ill and almost every step in pain. The 
 people all ran away, and appeared in the distance armed, and 
 refused to come near then came and threw stones at us, and 
 afterwards tried to kill those who went for water. We sleep 
 uncomfortably, the natives watching us all round. Sent 
 men to see if the way was clear. 
 
 8th. They would come to no parley. They knew their 
 advantage, and the wrongs they had suffered from Bin Juma 
 and Mohamad's men when they threw down the ivory in 
 the forest. In passing along the narrow path with a wall of 
 dense vegetation touching each hand, we came to a point 
 where an ambush had been placed, and trees cut down to 
 obstruct us while they speared us ; but for some reason it 
 was abandoned. Nothing could be detected ; but by stooping 
 down to the earth and peering up towards the sun, a dark 
 shade could sometimes be seen: this was an infuriated 
 savage, and a slight rustle in the dense vegetation meant a 
 spear. A large spear from my right, lunged past and almost 
 grazed my back, and stuck firmly into the soil. The two 
 men from whom it came appeared in an opening in the
 
 RUNNING THE GAUNTLET. 309 
 
 forest only ten yards off and bolted, one looking back over 
 his shoulder as he ran. As they are expert with the spear I 
 don't know how it missed, except that he was too sure of his 
 aim and the good hand of God was upon me. 
 
 I was behind the main body, and all were allowed to pass 
 till I, the leader, who was believed to be Mohamad Bogharib, 
 or Kolokolo himself, came up to the point where they lay. 
 A red jacket they had formerly seen me wearing was proof 
 to them that I was the same that sent Bin Juma to kill five 
 of their men, capture eleven women and children, and 
 twenty-five goats. Another spear was thrown at me by 
 an unseen assailant, and it missed me by about a foot in 
 front. Guns were fired into the dense mass of forest, but 
 with no effect, for nothing could be seen ; but we heard the 
 men jeering and denouncing us close by : two of our party 
 were slain. 
 
 Coming to a part of the forest cleared for cultivation I 
 noticed a gigantic tree, made still taller by growing on an 
 ant-hill 20 feet high; it had fire applied near its roots ; I heard 
 a crack which told that the fire had done its work, but felt 
 no alarm till I saw it come straight towards me : I ran a few 
 paces back, and down it came to the ground one yard behind 
 me, and breaking into several lengths, it covered me with a 
 cloud of dust. Had the branches not previously been rotted 
 off, I could scarcely have escaped. 
 
 Three times in one day was I delivered from impending 
 death. 
 
 My attendants, who were scattered in all directions, came 
 running back to me, calling out " Peace ! peace ! you will 
 finish all your work in spite of these people, and in spite 
 of everything." Like them, I took it as an omen of good 
 success to crown me yet, thanks to the " Almighty Preserver 
 of men." 
 
 We had five hours of running the gauntlet, waylaid by 
 spearmen, who all felt that if they killed me they would 
 be avenging the death of relations. From each hole in 
 the tangled mass we looked for a spear ; and each moment
 
 310 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 expected to hear the rustle which told of deadly weapons 
 hurled at us. I became weary with the constant strain of 
 dan'ger, and as, I suppose, . happens with soldiers on the 
 field of battle not courageous, but perfectly indifferent 
 whether I were killed or not. 
 
 When at last we got out of the forest and crossed the 
 Liya on to the cleared lands near the villages of Monan- 
 bundwa, we lay down to rest, and soon saw Muanampunda 
 coming, walking up in a stately manner unarmed to meet us. 
 He had heard the vain firing of my men into the bush, 
 and came to ask what was the matter. I explained the 
 mistake that Munangonga had made in supposing that I was 
 Kolokolo, the deeds of whose men he knew, and then we 
 went on to his village together. 
 
 In the evening he sent to say that if I would give him 
 all my people who had guns, he would call his people 
 together, burn off all the vegetation they could fire, and 
 punish our enemies, bringing me ten goats, instead of the 
 three milch goats I had lost. I again explained that the 
 attack was made by a mistake in thinking I was Mohamad 
 Bogharib, and that I had no wish to kill men : to join in his 
 old feud would only make matters worse. This he could 
 perfectly understand. 
 
 I lost all my remaining calico, a telescope, umbrella, and 
 five spears, by one of the slaves throwing down the load 
 and taking up his own bundle of country cloth. 
 
 9th. Went on towards Mamohela, now deserted by the 
 Arabs. Muanampunda convoyed me a long way, and at 
 one spot, with grass all trodden down, he said, "Here 
 we killed a man of Moezia and ate his body." The meat cut 
 up had been seen by Dugumbe. 
 
 10th. In connection with this affair the party that came 
 through from Mamalulu found that a great fight had taken 
 place at Muanampunda's, and they saw the meat cut up to 
 be cooked with bananas. They did not like the strangers 
 to look at their meat, but said, " Go on, and let our feast 
 alone," they did not want to be sneered at. The same
 
 CANNIBALS BY CHOICE. 3H 
 
 Muanampunda told me frankly that they ate the man of 
 Moezia: they seem to eat their foes to inspire courage, 
 or in revenge. One point is very remarkable ; it is not want 
 that has led to the custom, for the country is full of food. 
 The only feasible reason I can discover is a depraved 
 appetite, giving an extraordinary craving for meat which we 
 call " high." They are said to bury a dead body for a 
 couple of days in the soil in a forest, and in that time, 
 owing to the climate, it soon becomes putrid enough for the 
 strongest stomachs. 
 
 The Manyuema are so afraid of guns, that a man -borrows 
 one to settle any dispute or claim : he goes with it over his 
 shoulder, and quickly arranges the matter by the pressure 
 it brings, though they all know that he could not use it. 
 
 112A. Came on by a long march of six hours across plains 
 of grass and watercourses, lined with beautiful trees, to 
 Kassessa's, the chief of Mamohela, who has helped the Arabs 
 to scourge several of his countrymen for old feuds : he gave 
 them goats, and then guided them by night to the villages, 
 where they got more goats and many captives, each to 
 be redeemed with ten goats more. During the last foray, 
 however, the people learned that every shot does not kill, 
 and they came up to the party with bows and arrows, and 
 compelled the slaves to throw down their guns and powder- 
 horns. They would have shown no mercy had Manyuema 
 been thus in slave power ; but this is a beginning of the end, 
 which will exclude Arab traders from the country. I 
 rested half a day, as I am still ill. I do most devoutly 
 thank the Lord, for sparing my life three times in one 
 day. The Lord is good, a stronghold in the day of trouble, 
 and He knows them that trust in Him. 
 
 . Maraohela camp all burned off. We sleep at 
 
 Mamohela village. 
 
 . At a village on the bank of Kiver Lolindi. I 
 am suffering greatly. 
 
 14A. Across many brisk burns to a village on the side of 
 a mountain range.
 
 312 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 . To Muanambonyo's. 
 
 . To Luamo River. Very ill with bowels. 
 
 Vlth. Cross river, and sent a message to my friend. 
 Katomba sent a bountiful supply of food back. 
 
 18tfA. Reached Katomba, at Moenemgoi's, and was wel- 
 comed by* all the heavily-laden Arab traders. They carry 
 their trade spoil in three relays. No news whatever from 
 Ujiji, and M. Bogharib is still at Bambarre, with all my 
 letters. 
 
 19A-20A. Rest from weakness. (21st.) Tip to the 
 palms on the west of Mount Kanyima Pass. (22nd.) Bam- 
 barre. (28th.) Better and thankful. 
 
 292A. 111 all night, and remain. (30th.) Ditto, ditto; 
 but go on to Monandenda's on River Lombonda. 
 
 31st. Up and half over the mountain range, (1st Septem- 
 ber,) and sleep in dense forest, with several fine running 
 streams. 
 
 2nd September, 1871. Over the range, and down on to a 
 marble-capped hill, with a village on top. 
 
 5th. To Kasangangazi's. (6th.) Rest. (7th.) Mamba's. 
 Rest on 8th. (9th.) Ditto, ditto. People falsely accused 
 me of stealing ; but I disproved it to the confusion of the 
 Arabs, who wish to be able to say, "the people of the 
 English steal too." 
 
 12<A. Two men sick. Wait, though I am now compara- 
 tively sound and well. Dura flour, which we can now 
 procure, helps to strengthen me. 
 
 14A. To Pyanamosinde's. (15th.) To Karungamagao's. 
 (16th-17th.) Rest, as we could get food to buy. (18th.) 
 To a stockaded village, where the people ordered us to leave. 
 We complied, and went out half a mile and built our sheds 
 in the forest. 
 
 20<A. We came to Kunda's on the River Katemba, 
 through great plantations of cassava, and then to a woman 
 chief's, and now regularly built our own huts apart from the 
 villages, near the hot fountain called Kabila, which is about 
 blood-heat, and flows across the path. Crossing this we came
 
 PAINFUL PROGRESS TOWARDS DJIJI. 315 
 
 to Mokwaniwa's, on the River Gombeze, and met a caravan, 
 under Nassur Masudi, of 200 guns. He presented a fine 
 sheep, and reported that Syed Majid was dead. He was a 
 true and warm friend and did all he could to aid me 
 with his subjects, giving me two Sultan's letters for the 
 purpose. Seyed Burghash succeeds him. 
 
 22nd. Caravan goes northwards, and we rest, and eat the 
 sheep kindly presented. 
 
 23rd. I was sorely knocked up by this march from 
 Nyangwe back to Ujiji. In the latter part of it, I felt as if 
 dying on my feet. Almost every step was in pain, the appe- 
 tite failed, and a little bit of meat caused violent diarrhoea, 
 whilst the mind, sorely depressed, reacted on the body. All 
 the traders were returning successful : I alone had failed and 
 experienced worry, thwarting, baffling, when almost in sight 
 of the end towards which I strained. 
 
 3rd October, 1871. I read the whole Bible through four 
 times whilst I was in Manyuema. 
 
 Sth. The road covered with angular fragments of quartz 
 was very sore to my feet, which are crammed into ill-made 
 French shoes. How the bare feet of the men and women 
 stood out, I don't know ; it was hard enough on mine though 
 protected by the shoes. We marched in the afternoons 
 where water at this season was scarce. The dust of the 
 march caused ophthalmia : this was my first touch of it in 
 Africa. We now came to the Lobumba River, which flows 
 into Tanganyika, and then to the village Loanda and sent to 
 Kasanga, the Guha chief, for canoes. The Longumba rises, 
 like the Lobumba, in the mountains called Kabogo West. 
 We heard great noises, as if thunder, as far as twelve days off, 
 which were ascribed to Kabogo, as if it had subterranean 
 caves into which the waves rushed with great noise, and it 
 may be that the Longumba is the outlet of Tanganyika. 
 
 9th. On to islet Kasenge. After much delay got a good 
 canoe for three dotis, and on 15th October went to the 
 islet Kabiziwa. 
 
 . Start for Kabogo East, and 19th reach it. 8 A. M.
 
 316 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Rest men. (22nd.) To Rombola. 
 
 23rd. At dawn, off and go to Ujiji. Welcomed by all the 
 Arabs, particularly by Moenyeghere. I was now reduced to 
 a skeleton, but the market being held daily, and all kinds of 
 native food brought to it, I hoped that food and rest would 
 soon restore me ; but in the evening my people came and 
 told me that Shereef had sold off all my goods, and Moenye- 
 ghere confirmed it by saying, " "We protested, but he did not 
 leave a single yard of calico out of 3000, nor a string of 
 beads out of 700 Ibs." This was distressing. I had made up 
 my mind, if I could not get people at Ujiji, to wait till 
 men should come from the coast, but to wait in beggary was 
 what I never contemplated, and I now felt miserable. Shereef 
 was evidently a moral idiot, for he came without shame to 
 shake hands with me, and when I refused, assumed an air of 
 displeasure, as having been badly treated ; and afterwards 
 came with his " Balghere," good-luck salutation, twice a day, 
 and on leaving said, " I am going to pray," till I told him 
 that were I an Arab, his hand and both ears would be cut off 
 for thieving, as he knew, and I wanted no salutations from 
 him. In my distress it was annoying to see Shereef 's slaves 
 passing from the market with all the good things that my 
 goods had bought. 
 
 24tfA. My property had been sold to Shereef 'a friends at 
 merely nominal prices. Syed bin Majid, a good man, pro- 
 posed that they should be returned, and the ivory be taken 
 from Shereef ; but they would not restore stolen property, 
 though they knew it to be stolen. Christians would have 
 acted differently, even those of the lowest classes. I felt in 
 my destitution as if I were the man who went down from 
 Jerusalem to Jericho, and fell among thieves ; but I could 
 not hope for Priest, Levite, or good Samaritan to come by on 
 either side, but one morning Syed bin Majid said to me, 
 " Now this is the first time we have been alone together ; I 
 have no goods, but I have ivory ; let me, I pray you, sell 
 some ivory, and give the goods to you." This was encourag- 
 ing ; but I said, " Not yet, but by-and-bye." I had still a few
 
 ARRIVAL OF STANLEY. 317 
 
 barter goods left, which I had taken the precaution to deposit 
 with Mohamad bin Saleh before going to Manyuema, in case 
 of returning in extreme need. But when my spirits were at 
 their lowest ebb, the good Samaritan was close at hand, for 
 one morning Susi came running at the top of his speed and 
 gasped out, "An Englishman ! I see him ! " and off he darted 
 to meet him. The American flag at the head of a caravan 
 told of the nationality of the stranger. Bales of goods, 
 baths of tin, huge kettles, cooking pots, tents, etc., made me 
 think " This must be a luxurious traveler, and not one at his 
 wits' end like me." (28th.) It was Henry Moreland Stanley, 
 the traveling correspondent of the New York Herald, sent 
 by James Gordon Bennett, junior, at an expense of more 
 than 4:0002., to obtain accurate information about Dr. 
 Livingstone if living, and if dead to bring home my bones. 
 The news he had to tell to one who had been two full years 
 without any tidings from Europe made my whole frame 
 thrill. The terrible fate that had befallen France, the tele- 
 graphic cables successfully laid in the Atlantic, the election 
 of General Grant, the death of good Lord Clarendon my 
 constant friend, the proof that Her Majesty's Government had 
 not forgotten me in voting 1000Z. for supplies, and many other 
 points of interest, revived emotions that had lain dormant in 
 Manyuema. Appetite returned, and instead of the spare, 
 tasteless, two meals a day, I ate four times daily, and in a 
 week began to feel strong. I am not of a demonstrative 
 turn ; as cold, indeed, as we islanders are usually reputed to 
 be, but this disinterested kindness of Mr. Bennett, so nobly 
 carried into effect by Mr. Stanley, was simply overwhelming. 
 I really do feel extremely grateful, and at the same time I 
 am a little ashamed at not being more worthy of the gener- 
 osity. Mr. Stanley has done his part with untiring energy ; 
 good judgment in the teeth of very serious obstacles. His 
 helpmates turned out depraved blackguards, who, by their 
 excesses at Zanzibar and elsewhere, had ruined their consti- 
 tutions, and prepared their systems to be fit provender for 
 the grave. They had used up their strength by wickedness,
 
 318 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 and were of next to no service, but rather downdrafts and 
 unbearable drags to progress. 
 
 IQth November, 1871. As Tanganyika explorations are 
 said by Mr. Stanley to be an object of interest to Sir Roderick, 
 we go at his expense and by his men to the north of the lake. 
 Four hours to Chigoraa. 
 
 20tfA-21*. Passed a very crowded population, the men 
 calling to us to land to be fleeced and insulted by way of 
 Mahonga or Mutuari : they threw stones in rage, and one, 
 apparently slung, lighted close to the canoe. We came on 
 until after dark, and landed under a cliff to rest and cook, 
 but a crowd came and made inquiries, then a few more came 
 as if to investigate more perfectly : they told us to sleep, and 
 to-morrow friendship should be made. We put our luggage 
 on board and set a watch on the cliff. A number of men 
 came along, cowering behind rocks, which then aroused 
 suspicion, and we slipped off quietly ; they called after us, as 
 men balked of their prey. We went on five hours and 
 slept, and then this morning came on to Magala, where the 
 people are civil, but Mukamba had war with some one. 
 
 24A. To Point Kizuka in Mukamba's country. 
 
 25th. We came on about two hours to some villages on a 
 high bank where Mukamba is living. The chief, a young, 
 good-looking man like Mugala, came and welcomed us. 
 Vast numbers of fishermen ply their calling night and day 
 as far as we can see. Tanganyika closes in except at one 
 point N. and by W. of us. The highest point of the western 
 range, about 7000 feet above the sea, is Sumburuza. 
 
 26A. Sunday. Mr. Stanley has severe fever. The end 
 of Tanganyika seen clearly is rounded off about 4' broad 
 from east to west. 
 
 27tfA. Mr. Stanley is better. We started at sunset west- 
 wards, then northwards for seven hours, and at 4 A.M. reached 
 Lohinga, at the mouth of the Lusize. 
 
 2SA. In the afternoon Luhinga, the superior of Mukambe, 
 came and showed himself very intelligent. He named eigh- 
 teen rivers, four of which enter Tanganyika, and the rest 
 Lusize : all come into, none leave Tanganyika.
 
 A TRIP ON TANGANYIKA. 319 
 
 29/A. We go to see the Lusize River in a canoe. The 
 mouth is filled with large reedy sedgy islets : there are three 
 branches, about twelve to fifteen yards broad, and one fathom 
 deep, with a strong current of 2 ' per hour : water discolored. 
 
 30th. A large present of eggs, flour, and a sheep came 
 from Mukamba. 
 
 \st December, 1871. I gave fifteen cloths to Lohinga, 
 which pleased him highly. 
 
 %nd. 111 from bilious attack. 
 
 3rd. Better and thankful. Men went off to bring 
 Mukamba, whose wife brought us a handsome present of 
 milk, beer, and cassava. She is a good-looking young woman, 
 of light color and full lips, with two children of eight or ten 
 years of age. We gave them cloths, and she asked beads, so 
 we made them a present of two f undos. By lunars I was 
 one day wrong to-day. 
 
 4th. Yery heavy rain from north all night. Baker's 
 Lake cannot be as near as he puts it in his map, for it is 
 unknown to Lohinge. He thinks that he is a hundred years 
 old, but he is really about forty-five ! 
 
 5th. We go over to a point on our east. The bay is 
 about 12' broad: the mountains here are very beautiful. 
 We visited the chief Mukamba, at his village five miles north 
 of Lohinga's. 
 
 6th. Remain at Luhinga's. 
 
 1th. Start and go S.W. to Lohanga : passed the point 
 where Speke turned, then breakfasted at the market-place. 
 
 8th. Go on to Mukamba ; near the boundary of Babembe 
 and Bavira. We pulled six hours to a rocky islet, with two 
 rocks covered with trees on its western side. 
 
 9th. Leave New York Herald Islet and go S. to Lubumba 
 Cape. The people now are the Basansas along the coast. 
 Some men here were drunk and troublesome : we gave them 
 a present and went to an islet at the north end in about three 
 hours, good pulling, and afterwards in eight hours to the 
 eastern shore ; this makes the lake, say, 28 or 30 miles broad. 
 We coasted along to Mokungo's and rested. 
 
 1.0th. Kisessa is chief of all the islet Mozima.
 
 320 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 llth. Leave Mokungo and coast along to Sazzi. 
 12th. Mr. Stanley ill with fever. Off, and after three 
 hours, stop at Masarabo village. 
 
 13th. Mr. Stanley better. Go on to Ujiji. 
 14th. Many people off to fight Mirambo at Unyanyerabe : 
 their wives promenade and weave green leaves for victory. 
 
 15th. At Ujiji. Getting ready to march east for my 
 goods. 
 
 16th. Engage paddlers to Tongwe and a guide. 
 nth. S. ISth. Writing. 19thr-Wth. Still writing 
 dispatches. Packed up the large tin box with Manyuema 
 ewords and spear heads, for transmission home by Mr. Stan- 
 ley. Two chronometers and two watches anklets of Nzige 
 and of Manyuema. Leave with Mohamad bin Saleh a box 
 with books, shirts, paper, etc. ; also large and small beads, 
 tea, coffee and sugar. 
 
 21st. Heavy rains for planting now. 
 22nd. Stanley ill of fever. 
 
 ' 23rd. Do. very ill. Rainy and uncomfortable. 
 24th. S. 25th. Christmas. 
 26th. Had but a sorry Christmas yesterday. 
 27th. Left Ujiji 9 A.M., and crossed goats, donkeys, and 
 men over Luiche. Sleep at the Malagarazi. 
 
 29th. Crossed over the broad bay of the Malagarazi to 
 Kagonga and sleep. 
 
 BOth. Pass Yiga Point, red sandstone, and cross the bay 
 of the River Lugufn. and Nkala village, and transport the 
 people and goats : sleep. 
 
 31st. Send for beans, as there are no provisions in front. 
 1st January, 1872. May the Almighty help me to finish 
 my work this year for Christ's sake ! "We slept in Mosehezi 
 Bay. I was storm-stayed in Kifwe Bay, which is very beau- 
 tiful still as a millpond. 
 
 2nd. A very broad belt of large tussocks of reeds lines 
 the shore near Mount Kibanga. We had to coast along 
 to the south. Saw a village nearly afloat, the people having 
 there taken, refuge from their enemies. There are many
 
 THE TRAVELERS START EASTWARD. 321 
 
 hippopotami and crocodiles in Tanganyika. We encamped 
 on an open space on a knoll and put up flags to guide our 
 land party to us. 
 
 3rd. We send off to buy food. Mr. Stanley shot a fat 
 zebra, its meat was very good. 
 
 4th. The Ujijians left last night with their canoes. We 
 are now waiting for our land party. 
 
 5th. Mr. Stanley is ill of fever. I am engaged in copying 
 notes into my journal. All men and goats arrived safely. 
 
 6th. Mr. Stanley better, and we prepare to go. 
 
 1th. Mr. Stanley shot a buffalo at the end of our first 
 march up. 
 
 8th. We crossed the River Luajere. 
 
 9th. Rainy, but we went on E. and N. N. E. through a 
 shut-in valley to an opening full of all kinds of game. 
 
 10th. Across a very lovely green country of open forest 
 all fresh, and like an English gentleman's park. Game 
 plentiful. Tree-covered mountains right and left. 
 
 llth. Off through open forest for three hours east, then 
 cook, and go on east another three hours, over very rough' 
 rocky, hilly country. River Mtambahu. 
 
 12th. Off early, and pouring rain came down; as we 
 advance the country is undulating. 
 
 13th. Fine morning. We went through an undulating 
 hilly country clothed with upland trees for three hours; then 
 breakfast in an open glade. 
 
 14th. Another fine morning, but miserably wet afternoon. 
 We now descended, and saw many reddish monkeys, which 
 made a loud outcry. 
 
 15th. Along a valley with high mountains on each hand, 
 then up over that range on our left or south. At the top 
 some lions roared. Sleep at a running rill. 
 
 16th. Went E. and by S. along the high land, then we 
 saw a village down in a deep valley into which we descended. 
 Then up another ridge in a valley and along to a village 
 well cultivated up again 700 feet at least, and down to 
 Merera's village, hid in a mountainous nook, about 140 huts
 
 322 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 with doors on one side. The valleys present a lovely scene of 
 industry, all the people being eagerly engaged in weeding 
 and hoeing to take advantage of the abundant rains which 
 have drenched us every afternoon. 
 
 . We remain at Merera's to buy food. 
 . March, but the Mirongosi wandered and led us 
 round about instead of S. S. E. I have very sore feet from 
 bad shoes. 
 
 19A. Crossed the Mbamba Kiver and passed through 
 open forest. 21st. Rest. 22nd. Rest. 
 
 23rd. Rest. Mr. Stanley has fever. 24th. Ditto. 25th. 
 Stanley ill. 26th. Stanley better and off. 
 
 27A. In going on a swarm of bees attacked a donkey Mr. 
 Stanley bought for me, and instead of galloping off, as did 
 the other, the fool of a beast rolled down, and over and over. 
 I did the same, then ran, dashed into a bush like an ostrich 
 pursued, then ran whisking a bush round my head. They 
 gave me a sore head and face, before I got rid of the 
 angry insects : I never saw men attacked before : the donkey 
 was completely knocked up by the stings on head, face, and 
 lips, and died in two days, in consequence. "We slept in the 
 stockade of Misonghi. 
 
 2&th. We crossed the river and then away E. to near a 
 hill. Bombay says his greatest desire is to visit Speke's 
 grave ere he dies : he has a square head with the top depressed 
 in the centre. 
 
 SQth. At Merera's, the second of the name. 
 
 1st February, 1872. We met a caravan of Syde bin 
 Habib's people yesterday who reported that Mirambo has 
 offered to repay all the goods he has robbed the Arabs of, all 
 the ivory, powder, blood, etc., but his offer was rejected. 
 The country all around is devastated, and Arab force is at 
 Simba's. Mr. Stanley's man Shaw is dead. 
 
 2nd. Away over ridges of cultivation and elephants' 
 footsteps. Cultivators all swept away by Basavira. 
 
 3rd. Mr. Stanley has severe fever, with great pains in the 
 back and loins : an emetic helped him a little, but resin of 
 jalap would have cured him quickly.
 
 ARRIVAL AT UNYAMYEMBE. 323 
 
 4th. Mr. Stanley so ill that we carried him in a cot 
 across flat forest and land covered with short grass for three 
 hour.s, about north-east, and at last found a path, which was 
 a great help. 
 
 5th. Off at 6 A. M. Mr. Stanley a little better. 
 
 6th. Drizzly morning, but we went on, and in two hours 
 got drenched with cold 1ST. ~W. rain : the paths full of water 
 we splashed along to our camp in a wood. 
 
 7th. Along level plains, and clumps of forest, and hollows 
 filled at present with water, about !N". E., to a large pool of 
 Ngombe Nullah. Send off two men to Unyanyembe for 
 letters and medicine. 
 
 Sth. Removed from the large pool of the nullah, about an 
 hour north, to where game abounds. 
 
 9th. Remained for game, but we were unsuccessful. 
 
 10th. Leave Manyara. After a hard tramp we came to a 
 pool by a sycamore tree, 28 feet in circumference, with broad 
 fruit-laden branches. 
 
 llth. Reach Chikuru, a stockaded village, with dura 
 plantations around it and pools of rain-water. 
 
 12th. Rest. 
 
 13th. Leave Chikuru, and wade across an open flat with 
 much standing-water. They plant rice on the wet land 
 round the villages. 
 
 14th. Across the same flat open forest. Came to a Boma. 
 
 15th Over the same kind of country, where the water 
 was stagnant, to camp in the forest. 
 
 16th. Camp near Kigando, in a rolling country. 
 
 17th. Over a country, chiefly level, with stagnant water, 
 rounded hills were seen ; encamp in a new Boma, Magonda. 
 
 1SA. Go through low tree-covered hills of granite, with 
 blocks of rock sticking out : much land cultivated, and many 
 villages. The country now opens out and we come to the 
 Tembe, in the midst of many straggling villages. Unyan-^ 
 eymbe. Thanks to the Almighty.
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 NEW EXPLORATIONS DECIDED ON. 
 
 BY the arrival of the fast Ramadan on the 14th November, 
 and a Nautical Almanac, I discovered that I was on that 
 date twenty-one *days too fast in my reckoning. Mr. Stanley 
 used some very strong arguments in favor of my going 
 home, recruiting my strength, getting artificial teeth, and 
 then returning to finish my task ; but my judgment said, 
 " All your friends will wish you to make a complete work of 
 the exploration of the sources of the Nile before you retire." 
 My daughter Agnes says, " Much as I wish you to come 
 home, I would rather that you finished your work to your 
 own satisfaction than return merely to gratify me." Rightly 
 and nobly said, my darling Nannie. Vanity whispers pretty 
 loudly, " She is a chip of the old block." My blessing on 
 her and all the rest. 
 
 It is all but certain that four full-grown gushing fountains 
 rise on the watershed eight days south of Katanga, each of 
 which at no great distance off becomes a large river; and 
 two rivers thus formed flow north to Egypt, the other two 
 south to Inner Ethiopia ; that is, Lufira or Bartle Frere's 
 River, flows into Kamolondo, and that into Webb's Lualaba, 
 the main line of drainage. Another, on the north side of 
 the sources, Sir Paraffin Young's Lualaba, flows through 
 Lake Lincoln, otherwise named Chibungo and Lomame, and 
 that too into Webb's Lualaba. Then Liambai Fountain, 
 Palmerston's, forms the Upper Zambesi; and the Lunga 
 (Lunga), Oswell's Fountain, is the Kafue ; both flowing into
 
 PROPOSED ROUTE OF TRAVEL. 325 
 
 Inner Ethiopia. It may be that these are not the fountains 
 of the Nile mentioned to Herodotus by the secretary of 
 Minerva, in Sais, in Egypt ; but they are worth discovery, 
 as in the last hundred of the seven hundred miles of the 
 watershed, from which nearly all the Nile springs do unques- 
 tionably arise. 
 
 I propose to go from Unyanyembe to Fipa ; then round 
 the south end of Tanganyika, Tambete, or Mbete; then 
 across the Chambeze, and round south of Lake Bangweolo, 
 and due west to the ancient fountains ; leaving the under- 
 ground excavations till after visiting Katanga. This route 
 will serve to certify that no other sources of the Nile can 
 come from the south without being seen by me. No one 
 will cut me out after this exploration is accomplished ; 
 and may the good Lord of all help me to show myself one 
 of His stout-hearted servants, an honor to my children, and, 
 perhaps, to my country and race. 
 
 Our march extended from 26th December, 1871, till 18th 
 February, 1872, or fifty-four days. This was over 300 miles, 
 and thankful I am to reach Unyanyembe, and the Tembe 
 Kwikuru. 
 
 I find, also, that the two headmen selected by the notorious, 
 but covert slave-trader, Ludha Damji, have been plundering 
 my stores from the 20th October, 1870, to 18th February, 
 1872, or nearly sixteen months. One has died of small-pox, 
 and the other not only plundered my stores, but has broken 
 open the lock of Mr. Stanley's storeroom, and plundered his 
 goods. He declared that all my goods were safe, but when 
 the list was referred to, and the goods counted, and he was 
 questioned as to the serious loss, he at last remembered a 
 bale of seven pieces of merikano, and three kanike or 304 
 yards, that he evidently had hidden. On questioning him 
 about the boxes brought, he was equally ignorant, but at last 
 said, " Oh ! I remember a box of brandy where it went, and 
 every one knows as well as I." 
 
 18th February, 1872. This, and Mr. Stanley's goods being 
 found in his possession, make me resolve to have done with
 
 326 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 him. My losses by the robberies of the Banian employed 
 slaves are more than made up by Mr. Stanley, who has given 
 me twelve bales of calico ; nine loads = fourteen and a half 
 bags of beads ; thirty-eight coils of brass wire ; a tent ; boat ; 
 bath ; cooking pots ; twelve copper sheets ; air beds ; trowsers ; 
 jackets, etc. Indeed, I am again quite set up, and as soon as 
 he can Bend men, not slaves, from the coast I go to my work, 
 with a fair prospect of finishing it. 
 
 20tfA. To my great joy I got four flannel shirts from 
 Agnes, and I was delighted to find that two pairs of fine 
 English boots had most considerately been sent by my friend 
 Mr. Waller. Mr. Stanley and I measured the calico and 
 found that 733 yards were wanting, also two frasilahs of 
 samsam, and one case of brandy. Othman pretended sickness, 
 and blamed the dead men, but produced a bale of calico 
 hidden in Thani's goods ; this reduced the missing quantity 
 to 436 yards. 
 
 21s. Heavy rains. I am glad we are in shelter. Masudi 
 is an Arab, near to Ali bin Salem at Bagamoyo. Bushir is an 
 Arab, for whose slave he took a bale of calico. Masudi took 
 this Chirongozi, who is not a slave, as a pagazi or porter. 
 Robbed by Bushir at the 5th camp from Bagamoyo. Othman 
 confessed that he knew of the sale of the box of brandy, and 
 brought also a shawl which he had forgotten : I searched 
 him, and found Mr. Stanley's stores which he had stolen. 
 
 22/i^. Service this morning, and thanked God for safety 
 thus far. Got a packet of letters from an Arab. 
 
 23r<2. Send to Governor for a box which he has kept for 
 four years : it is all eaten by white ants : two fine guns and a 
 pistol are quite destroyed, all the wood-work being eaten. 
 The brandy bottles were broken to make it appear as if by an 
 accident, but the corks being driven in, and corks of maize 
 cobs used in their place, show that a thief has drunk the 
 brandy and then broken the bottles. The tea was spoiled, 
 but the china was safe, and the cheese good. 
 
 25th. A number of Batusi women came to-day asking for 
 presents. They are tall and graceful in form, with well-shaped
 
 STANLEY STARTS FOR THE COAST. 327 
 
 small heads, noses and mouths. They are the chief owners 
 of cattle here. The war with Mirambo is still going on. The 
 Governor is ashamed to visit me. 
 
 2Gth. Writing journal and dispatch. 
 . To-day we hold a Christmas feast. 
 . Writing journal. Syde bin Salem called; he is a 
 China-looking man, and tried to be civil to us. 
 
 6th March, 1872. Repairing tent, and receiving stores. 
 
 7th. Received a machine for filling cartridges. 
 
 8th. 9th. Writing. 
 
 10th. Writing. Gave Mr. Stanley a check for 5000 
 rupees on Stewart and Co., Bombay. This 500Z, is to be 
 drawn if Dr. Kirk has expended the rest of the 1000Z. 
 If not, then the check is to be destroyed by Mr. Stanley. 
 
 12th. Writing. 
 
 13tfA. Finished my letter to Mr. Bennett, of the New York 
 JSerald, and Dispatch No. 3 to Lord Granville. 
 
 llth. Mr. Stanley leaves. I commit to his care my 
 journal sealed with five seals ; the impressions on them 
 are those of an American gold coin, anna, and half anna, 
 and cake of paint with royal arms. Positively not to 
 be opened. 
 
 [We must leave each heart to know its own bitterness, as 
 the old explorer retraces his steps to the Tembe at Kwihara, 
 there to hope and pray that good fortune may attend his 
 companion of the last few months on his journey to the 
 coast ; whilst Stanley, duly impressed with the importance 
 of that which he can reveal to the outer world, and laden 
 with a responsibility which by this time can be fully compre- 
 hended, thrusts on through every difficulty. 
 
 There is nothing for it now but to give Mr. Stanley time 
 to get to Zanzibar, and to shorten by any means at hand the 
 anxious period which must elapse before evidence can 
 arrive that he has carried out the commission intrusted 
 to him. 
 
 As we shall see, Livingstone was not without some ma- 
 terial to afford him occupation. Distances were calculated
 
 328 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 from native report; preparations were pushed on for the 
 coming journey to Lake Bangweolo ; apparatus was set in 
 order. Travelers from all quarters dropped in from time 
 to time ; each contributed something about his own land ; 
 whilst waifs and strays of news from the expedition sent by 
 the Arabs against Mirambo kept the settlement alive. To 
 return to his Diary. 
 
 How much seems to lie in their separating, when we 
 remember that with the last shake of the hand, and the last 
 adieu, came the final parting between Livingstone and all 
 that could represent the interest felt by the world in his 
 travels, or the sympathy of the white man 1] 
 
 15th. Writing to send after Mr. Stanley by two of his 
 men, who wait here for the purpose. 
 
 16th. Sent the men after Mr. Stanley, and two of mine 
 to bring his last words, if any. 
 
 [Sunday was kept in the quiet of the Tembe, on the 17th 
 March. Two days after, and his birthday again comes round 
 that day which seems always to have carried with it such 
 a special solemnity.] 
 
 19th. Birthday. My Jesus, my king, my life, my all ; I 
 again dedicate my whole self to Thee. Accept me, and 
 grant, O Gracious Father, that ere this year is gone I may 
 finish my task. In Jesus' name I ask it. Amen, so let it be. 
 
 DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 
 
 [Many of his astronomical observations were copied out at 
 this time, and minute records taken of the rainfall. Books 
 saved up against a rainy day were read in the middle of the 
 " Masika" and its heavy showers.] 
 
 25th. Susi brought a letter back from Mr. Stanley. He 
 had a little fever, but I hope he will go on safely. 
 
 26th. Eain of Masika chiefly by night. The Masika of 
 1871 began on 23rd of March, and ended 30th of April. 
 
 27th. Reading. Yery heavy rains. 
 
 28th. Moenyernbegu asked for the loan of a " doti." He 
 is starving, and so is the war-party at M'Futu; chaining
 
 VISITORS FROM UGANDA. 339 
 
 their slaves together to keep them from running away to get 
 food anywhere. 
 
 %9th-31st. Yery rainy weather. Am reading 'Mungo 
 Park's Travels ; ' they look so truthful. 
 
 1st April, 1872. Read Young's 'Search after Living- 
 stone ; ' thankful for many kind words about me. He writes 
 like a gentleman. 
 
 2nd. Making a sounding-line out of lint left by Mr. 
 Stanley. Whydah birds are now building their nests. The 
 cock-bird brings fine grass seed-stalks off the top of my 
 Tembe. He takes the end inside the nest and pulls it all in, 
 save the ear. The hen keeps inside, constantly arranging 
 the grass with all her might, sometimes making the whole 
 nest move by her efforts. Feathers are laid in after the 
 grass. 
 
 4th. We hear that Dugumbe's men have come to Djiji 
 with fifty tusks. My men whom I had sent to look for a 
 book left by accident in a hut some days' journey off came 
 back stopped by a flood in their track. 
 
 8th. An Arab called Syed bin Mohamad Magibbe called. 
 He proposes to go west to the country west of Katanga 
 (Urange). 
 
 [It is very interesting to find that the results of the visit 
 paid by Speke and Grant to Mteza, King of Uganda, have 
 already become well marked. As we see, Livingstone was 
 at Unyanyembe when a large trading party dropped in on 
 their way back to the king, who, it will be remembered, 
 lives on the north-western shore of the Victoria Nyassa]. 
 
 Qth. About 150 Waganga of Mteza carried a present to 
 Seyed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, consisting of ivory and 
 a young elephant. He spent all the ivory in buying return 
 presents of gunpowder, guns, soap, brandy, gin, etc., and 
 they have stowed it all in this Tembe. This morning they 
 have taken everything out to see if anything is spoilt. They 
 have hundreds of packages. 
 
 15th. Hung up the sounding-line on poles 1 fathom 
 apart and tarred it. 375 fathoms of 5 strands.
 
 330 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 16th. Went over to visit Sultan bin Ali near Tabora. 
 Tabora slopes down from some of the same hills that over- 
 look Kwihara, where I live. At the bottom of the slope 
 swampy land lies, and during the- Masika it is flooded and 
 runs westward. The sloping plain on the North of the 
 central drain is called Kaze that on the South is Tabora, 
 and this is often applied to the whole space between the 
 hills north and south. Sultan bin Ali is very hospitable. 
 He is of the Bedawee Arabs, and a famous marksman with 
 his long Arab gun or matchlock. He often killed hares 
 with it, always hitting them in the head. He is about sixty- 
 five years of age, black eyed, six feet high and inclined to 
 stoutness, and his long beard is nearly all gray. He pro- 
 vided two bountiful meals for self and attendants. 
 
 Called on Mohamad bin ISTassur recovering from sickness. 
 He presented a goat and a large quantity of guavas. He 
 gave the news that came from Dugumbe's underling Nserere, 
 and men now at Ujiji; they went S. W. to country called 
 Nombe, it is near Rua, and where copper is smelted. After 
 I left them on account of the massacre at Nyangwe, they 
 bought much ivory, but acting in the usual Arab way, plun- 
 dering and killing, they aroused the Bakuss' ire, and as 
 they are very numerous, about 200 were killed, and some 
 of Dugumbe's party. They bought fifty tusks to Ujiji. 
 "We dare not pronounce positively on any event in life, but 
 this looks like prompt retribution on the perpetrators of the 
 horrible and senseless massacre of Nyangwe. It was not 
 vengeance by the relations of the murdered ones we saw 
 shot and sunk in the Lualaba, for there is no communication 
 between the people of Nyaugwe and the Bakuss or people 
 of Nombe of Lomame that massacre turned my heart 
 completely against Dugumbe's people. To go with them to 
 Lomame as my slaves were willing to do, was so repugnant 
 I preferred to return .that weary 400 or 600 miles to Ujiji. 
 I mourned over my being baffled and thwarted all the way, 
 but tried to believe that it was all for the best this news 
 shows that had I gone with these people to Lomame, I could
 
 THE CHRISTIAN EMBLEM. 331 
 
 not have escaped the Bakuss spears, for I could not have run 
 like the routed fugitives. I was prevented from going in 
 order to save me from death. Many escapes from danger I 
 am aware of : some make me shudder, as I think how near 
 to death's door I came. But how many more instances of 
 Providential protecting there may be of which I know 
 nothing ! But I thank most sincerely the good Lord of all 
 for His goodness to me. 
 
 ISth. I pray the good Lord of all to favor me so a& to 
 allow me to discover the ancient fountains of Herodotus, and 
 if there is anything in the underground excavations to con- 
 firm the precious old documents (ra ^ftia), the Scriptures of 
 truth, may He permit me to bring it to light, and give me 
 wisdom to make a proper use of it. 
 
 The cross has been used not as a Christian emblem cer- 
 tainly, but from time immemorial as the form in which the 
 copper ingot of Katanga is moulded this is met with quite 
 commonly, and is called Handiple Mahandi. 
 
 19th. A roll of letters and newspapers, apparently, came 
 to-day for Mr. Stanley. The messenger says he passed Mr. 
 Stanley on the way, who said, " Take this to the Doctor ;" 
 this is erroneous. 
 
 20^/4. Opene'd it on 20th, and found nine 'New York 
 Heralds' of December 1 9, 1871, and one letter for Mr. 
 Stanley, which I shall forward, and one stick of tobacco. 
 
 21s Tarred the tent presented by Mr. Stanley. 
 
 23rd. Visited Kwikuru, and saw the chief of all the 
 Banyamwezi (around whose Boma it is), about sixty years 
 old, and partially paralytic. 
 
 It must be a sore affliction to be bereft of one's reason, 
 and the more so if the insanity takes the form of uttering 
 thoughts which in a sound state we drive from us as impure. 
 
 25th-2Qth. A touch of fever from exposure. 
 
 27i5A. Better and thankful. 
 
 1st May, 1872. Unyanyembe : bought a cow ; she gives 
 milk, and this makes me independent. Finished a letter for 
 the New York Herald, trying to enlist American zeal to stop
 
 332 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 the East Coast slave-trade : I pray for a blessing on it from 
 the All-Gracious. 
 
 [The concluding words of the letter he refers to are as 
 follows: ] 
 
 " All I can add in my loneliness is, may Heaven's rich 
 blessing come down on everyone, American, English, or 
 Turk, who will help to heal the open sore of the world." 
 
 [It was felt that nothing could more palpably represent 
 the man, and this quotation has consequently been inscribed 
 upon the tablet erected to his memory near his grave in 
 Westminster Abbey. It was noticed some time after select- 
 ing it that Livingstone wrote these words exactly one year 
 before his death.] 
 
 th. Many palavers about Mirambo's death having taken 
 place and being concealed. Arabs say that he is a brave 
 man, and the war is not near its end. Lewale* invites me 
 to a feast. 
 
 1th. New moon last night. Went to breakfast with 
 Lewale. He says that the JViirambo war is virtually against 
 himself as a Syed Majid man. They wish to have him 
 removed, and this would be a benefit. 
 
 The Banyamwezi told the Arabs that they did not want 
 them to go to fight, because when one Arab was killed all 
 the rest ran away and the army got frightened. 
 
 " Give us your slaves only and we will fight," say they. 
 
 9th. No fight, though it was threatened yesterday : they 
 all like to talk a great deal before striking a blow. They 
 believe that in the multitude of counselors there is safety. 
 Women singing as they pound their grain into meal, " Oh, 
 the march of Bwanamokolu to Katanga ! Oh, the march to 
 Katanga and back to Ujiji ! Oh, oh, oh !" Bwanamokolu 
 means the great or old gentleman. Batusi women are very 
 keen traders, and very polite and pleasing in their address 
 and pretty way of speaking. 
 
 I don't know how the great loving Father will bring all 
 out right at last, but He knows and will do it. 
 
 *This appears to be the title of the Governor of the town.
 
 THE MIRAMBO WAR ARAB TACTICS. 333 
 
 The African's idea seems to be that they are within the 
 power of a power superior to themselves apart from and 
 invisible: good; but frequently evil and dangerous. This 
 may have been the earliest religious feeling of dependence 
 on a Divine power without any conscious feeling of its 
 nature. Idols may have come in to give a definite idea of 
 superior power, and the primitive faith or impression 
 obtained by Revelation seems to have mingled with their 
 idolatry without any sense of incongruity. (See Micah in 
 Judges.) 
 
 10th Hamees Wodin Tagh, my friend, is reported slain 
 by the Makoa of a large village he went to fight. Other 
 influential Arabs are killed, but full information has not yet 
 arrived. 
 
 HtfA. A serpent of dark olive color was found dead at my 
 door this morning, probably killed by a cat. 
 
 12A. The reported death of Hamees Wodin Tagh is con- 
 tradicted. It was so circumstantial that I gave it credit, 
 though the false reports in this land are one of its most 
 marked characteristics. They are " enough to spear a sow." 
 
 13th. He will keep His word the gracious One, full of 
 grace and truth no doubt of it. He said, "Him that 
 cometh unto me, I will in nowise cast out," and "What- 
 soever ye shall ask in my name I will give it." He WILL 
 keep His word: then I can come and humbly present my 
 petition, and it will be all right. Doubt is here inadmissible, 
 surely. 
 
 D. L. 
 
 14^7*. People came from TJjiji to-day, and report that 
 many of Mohamad Bogharib's slaves have died of small-pox 
 Fundi and Suliman amongst them. Others sent out to get 
 firewood have been captured by the "VVaha. Mohamad's 
 chief slave, Othman, went to see the cause of their losses and 
 received a spear in the back, the point coming out at his 
 breast. 
 
 Lewale off to Mfutu to loiter and not to fight. The 
 Bagoye don't wish Arabs to come near the scene of action,
 
 334: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 because, say they, " When one Arab is killed all the rest run 
 away, and they frighten us thereby. Stay at Mf utu ; we will 
 do all the fighting." This is very acceptable advice. 
 
 16th. Lewale sends off letters to the Sultan to-day. I have 
 no news to send, but am waiting wearily. 
 
 Vlth. Ailing. Making cheeses for the journey : good, but 
 sour rather, as the milk soon turns in this climate, and we 
 don't use rennet, but allow the milk to coagulate of itself, 
 and it does thicken in half a day. 
 
 ISth-lQth. One of Dugumbe's men came to-day from 
 Ujiji. He confirms the slaughter of Matereka's people, but 
 denies that of Dugumbe's men. 
 
 20A. Better. Yery cold winds. The cattle of the Batusi 
 were captured by the Arabs to prevent them going off with 
 the Baganda : my four amongst them. I sent over for them 
 and they were returned this morning. 
 
 %Ist. I wish I had some of the assurance possessed by 
 others, but I am oppressed with the apprehension that after 
 all it may turn out that I have been following the Congo ; 
 and who would risk being put into a cannibal pot, and 
 converted into black man for it? 
 
 23n There seems but little prospect of Christianity 
 spreading by ordinary means among Mohamadans. Their 
 pride is a great obstacle, and is very industriously nurtured 
 by its votaries. No new invention or increase of power on 
 the part of Christians seems to disturb the self-complacent 
 belief that ultimately all power and dominion in this world 
 will fall into the hands of Moslems. Mohamad will appear 
 at last in glory, with all his followers saved by him. 
 
 I would say to missionaries, Come on, brethren, to the real 
 heathen. You have no idea how brave you are till you try. 
 Leaving the coast tribes, and devoting yourselves heartily to 
 the savages, as they are called, you will find, with some 
 drawbacks and wickednesses, a very great deal to admire and 
 love. Many statements made about them require confirma- 
 tion. You will never see women selling their infants : the 
 Arabs never did, nor have I. An assertion of the kind was 
 made by mistake.
 
 THE WHYDAH BIRDS. 335 
 
 Captive children are often sold, but not by their mothers. 
 Famine sometimes reduces fathers to part with them, but the 
 selling of children, as a general practice, is quite unknown, 
 and, as Speke put it, quite a mistake. 
 
 25Ar-26tfA. Cold weather. Lewale sends for all Arabs to 
 make a grand assault, as it is now believed that Mirambo is 
 dead, and only his son, with few people, remains. 
 
 Two Whydah birds, after their nest was destroyed several 
 times, now try again in another pomegranate-tree in the 
 yard. They put back their eggs, as they have the power to 
 do, and build again. 
 
 27tfA. Another pair of the kind (in which the cock is red- 
 breasted) had ten chickens, also rebuilds afresh. The red 
 cock-bird feeds all the brood. Each little one puts his head 
 on one side as he inserts his bill, chirruping briskly, and 
 bothering him. The young ones lift up a feather as a child 
 would a doll, and invite others to do the same, in play. So, 
 too, with another pair. The cock skips from side to side 
 with a feather in his bill, and the hen is pleased : nature is 
 full of enjoyment. Near Kasanganga's I saw boys shooting 
 locusts that settled on the ground with little bows and 
 arrows. 
 
 Cock "Whydah bird died in the night. The brood came 
 and chirruped to it for food, and tried to make it feed them, 
 as if not knowing death ! 
 
 A wagtail dam refused its young a caterpillar till it had 
 been killed she ran away from it, but then gave it when 
 ready to be swallowed. The first smile of an infant with its 
 toothless gums is one of the pleasantest sights in nature. It 
 is innocence claiming kinship, and asking to be loved in its 
 helplessness. 
 
 %8th. Many parts of this interior land present most 
 inviting prospects for well-sustained efforts of private benev- 
 olence. Karague, for instance, with its intelligent friendly 
 chief Rumainyika (Speke's Rumanika), and Bouganda, with 
 its teeming population, rain, and friendly chief, who could 
 easily be swayed by an energetic, prudent missionary. The 
 .evangelist must not depend on foreign support other than
 
 336 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 an occasional supply of beads and calico ; coffee is indigenous 
 and so is sugar-cane. It would be a sort of Eobinson Crusoe 
 life, but with abundant materials for surrounding oneself 
 with comforts, and improving the improvable among the 
 natives. 
 
 29tfA. Halima ran away in a quarrel with Ntaoeka: I 
 went over to Sultan bin Ali and Bent a note after her, but 
 she came back of her own accord, and only wanted me to 
 come outside and tell her to enter. I did so, and added, 
 "You must not quarrel again." She has been extremely 
 good ever since I got her from Katombo or Moene-mokaia : 
 I never had to reprove her once. She is always very atten- 
 tive and clever, and never stole, nor would she allow her 
 husband to steal. She is the best spoke in the wheel ; this 
 her only escapade is easily forgiven, and I gave her a warm 
 cloth for the cold, by way of assuring her that I had no 
 grudge against her. I shall free her, and buy her a house 
 and garden at Zanzibar, when we get there. 
 
 31st. The so-called Arab war with Mirambo drags its 
 slow length along most wearily. After it is over then we 
 shall get Banyamwezi pagazi in abundance. 
 
 In reference to this Nile source I have been kept in 
 perpetual doubt and perplexity. I know too much to be 
 positive. Great Lualaba, or Lualubba, as Manyuema say, 
 may turn out to be the Congo and Nile, a shorter river after 
 all the fountains flowing north and south seem in favor of 
 its being the Nile. Great westing is in favor of the Congo. 
 It would be comfortable to be positive like Baker. "Every 
 drop from the passing shower to the roaring mountain 
 torrent must fall into Albert Lake, a giant at its birth." 
 How soothing to be positive. 
 
 [Many busy calculations are met with here which are too 
 involved to be given in detail. At one point we see a rough 
 conjecture as to the length of the road through Fipa. 
 Further on we Bee that he reckoned on his work occupying 
 him till 1874.] 
 
 If Stanley arrived on the 1st of May at Zanzibar : allow
 
 GOOD NEWS FROM UGOGO. 337 
 
 =20 days to get men and settle with them=May 20th, 
 men leave Zanzibar 22nd of May=now 1st of June. 
 
 On the road may be 10 days 
 
 Still to come 30 days, June . . . 30 " 
 
 Ought to arrive 10th or 15th of July 40 " 
 
 14th of June= Stanley being away now 3 months ; say he 
 left Zanzibar 24th of May=at Aden 1st of June=Suez 8th 
 of June, near Malta 14th of June. 
 
 Stanley's men may arrive in July next. Then engage 
 pagazi half a month = August, 5 months of this year will 
 remain for journey ; the whole of 1873 will be swallowed up 
 in work, but in February or March, 1874, please the 
 Almighty Disposer of events, I shall complete my task and 
 retire. 
 
 lih June, 1872. Sultan bin Ali called. He says that the 
 path by Fipa is the best, it has plenty of game, and people 
 are friendly. 
 
 13th. Sangara, one of Mr. Stanley's men, returned from 
 Bagamoyo, and reports that my caravan is at Ugogo. He 
 arrived to-day, and reports that Stanley and the American 
 Consul acted like good fellows, and soon got a party of over 
 fifty off, as he heard while at Bagamoyo, and he left. The 
 main body, he thinks, are in Ugogo. He came on with the 
 news, but the letters were not delivered to him. I do most 
 fervently thank the good Lord of all for His kindness to me 
 through these gentlemen. The men will come here about 
 the end of this month. Bombay happily pleaded sickness as 
 an excuse for not re-engaging, as several others have done. 
 He saw that I got a clear view of his failings, and he could 
 not hope to hoodwink me. 
 
 After Sangara came, I went over to Kukuru to see what 
 the Lewale had received, but he was absent at Tabora. A 
 great deal of shouting, firing of guns, and circumgyration 
 by the men who had come from the war just outside the 
 stockade of Nkisiwa was going on as we descended the gentle 
 slope towards it. Two heads had been put up as trophies in
 
 338 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 the village, and it was asserted that Marukwe, a chief man of 
 Mirarabo, had been captured at Uvinza, and his head would 
 soon coine too. It actually did come, and was put up on a 
 pole. 
 
 I am most unfeignedly thankful that Stanley and "Webb 
 have acted nobly. 
 
 14ith. Seyed bin Mohamad Margibbe called to say that he 
 was going off towards Katanga to-morrow by way of Amran. 
 I feel inclined to go by way of Fipa rather, though I should 
 much like to visit Merere. 
 
 15th. Lewale doubts Sangara on account of having brought 
 no letters. Nothing can be believed in this land unless it is 
 in black and white, and but little even then ; the most 
 circumstantial details are often mere figments of the brain. 
 The one half one hears may safely be called false, and the 
 other half doubtful or not proven. 
 
 16th. Ksare chief, Msalala, came selling from Sakuma on 
 the north a jocular man, alwaj^s a favorite with the ladies. 
 He offered a hoe as a token of friendship, but I bought it, as 
 we are, I hope, soon going off, and it clears the tent floor and 
 ditch round it in wet weather. 
 
 Mirambo made a sortie against a headman in alliance with 
 the Arabs, and was quite successful, which shows that he is 
 not so much reduced as reports said. 
 
 ISth. Sent over a little quinine to Sultan bin Ali he is 
 ailing of fever and a glass of " Moiko " the shameful ! 
 
 The Ptolemaic map defines people according to their food. 
 The Elephantophagi, the Struthiophagi, the Ichthyophagi, 
 and Anthropophagi. If we followed the same sort of classi- 
 fication our definition would be the drink, thus : the 
 tribe of stout-guzzlers, the roaring potheen-fuddlers, the 
 whisky -fishoid-drinkers, the vin-ordinaire bibbers, the lager- 
 beer-swillers, and an outlying tribe of the brandy cocktail 
 persuasion. 
 
 19th. Whydahs, though full-fledged, still gladly take a 
 feed from their dam, putting down the breast to the ground 
 and cocking up the bill and chirruping in the most engaging
 
 THE DOCTOR'S LITTLE FRIENDS. 339 
 
 manner and winning way they know. She still gives them 
 a little, but administers a friendly shove off too. They all 
 pick up feathers or grass, and hop from side to side of their 
 mates, as if saying, "Come, let us play at making little 
 houses." The wagtail has shaken her young quite off, and 
 has a new nest. She warbles prettily, very much like a 
 canary, and is extremely active in catching flies, but eats 
 crumbs of bread and milk too. Sun-birds visit the pome- 
 granate flowers and eat insects therein too, as well as nectar. 
 The young whydah birds crouch closely together at night for 
 heat. They look like a woolly ball on a branch. By day 
 they engage in pairing and coaxing each other. They come 
 to the same twig every night. Like children they try and 
 lift heavy -weights of feathers above their strength. 
 
 I trust in Providence still to help me. I know the four 
 rivers Zambesi, Kafue, Luapula, and Lomame ; their foun- 
 tains must exist in one region. 
 
 The women work very hard in providing for their hus- 
 bands' kitchens. The rice is the most easily prepared grain r 
 three women stand round a huge wooden mortar with pestles 
 in their hands, a gallon or more of the unhusked rice' 
 called Mopunga here and paddy in India is poured in, and 
 the three heavy pestles worked in exact time ; each jerks up 
 her body as she lifts the pestle and strikes it into the mortar 
 with all her might, lightening the labor with some wild ditty 
 the while, though one hears by the strained voice that she is 
 nearly out of breath. When the husks are pretty well 
 loosened, the grain is put into a large plate-shaped basket 
 and tossed so as to bring the chaff to one side, the vessel is 
 then heaved downwards and a little horizontal motion given 
 to it which throws the refuse out ; the partially cleared grain 
 is now returned to the mortar, again pounded and cleared of 
 husks, and a semi-circular toss of the vessel sends all the 
 remaining unhusked grain to one side, which is lifted out 
 with the hand, leaving the chief part quite clean: they 
 certainly work hard and well. 
 
 "When Ntaoeka chose to follow us rather than go to the 
 I
 
 34:0 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 coast, I did not like to have a fine-looking woman among us 
 unattached, and proposed that she should marry one of my 
 three worthies, Chumah, Gardner, or Mabruki, but she smiled 
 at the idea. Chumah was evidently too lazy ever to get a 
 wife ; the other two were contemptible in appearance, and 
 she has a good presence and is buxom. Chumah promised 
 reform : " he had been lazy, he admitted, because he had no 
 wife." Circumstances led to the other women wishing 
 Ntaoeka married, and on my speaking to her again she con- 
 sented. I have noticed her ever since working hard from 
 morning to night : the first up in the cold mornings, making 
 fire and hot water, pounding, carrying water, wood, sweeping, 
 cooking. 
 
 21. Lewale is off to the war with Mirambo ; he is to 
 finish it now ! A continuous f usilade along his line of 
 march west will expend much powder, but possibly get the 
 spirits up. 
 
 24:th. A continuous covering of forests is a sign of a virgin 
 country. The earlier seats of civilization are bare and 
 treeless according to Humboldt. The civilization of the 
 human race sets bounds to the increase of forests. It is but 
 recently that sylvan decorations rejoice the eyes of the 
 Northern Europeans. The old forests attest the youthful- 
 ness of our civilization. The aboriginal woods of Scotland 
 are but recently cut down. 
 
 The medical education has led me to a continual tendency 
 to suspend the judgment. What a state of blessedness it 
 would have been had I possessed the dead certainty of the 
 homo3opathic persuasion, and as soon as I found the Lakes 
 Bangweolo, Moero, and Kamolondo pouring out their waters 
 down the great central valley, bellowed out, " Hurrah ! 
 Eureka ! " and gone home in firm and honest belief that I 
 had settled it, and no mistake. Instead of that I am even 
 now not at all " cock-sure " that I have not been following 
 down what may after all be the Congo.
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 WEARY WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE. 
 
 now the long-looked for letters came in by -various 
 hands, but with little regularity. It is not here neces- 
 sary to refer to the withdrawal of the Livingstone Kelief 
 Expedition which took place as soon as Mr. Stanley con- 
 fronted Lieutenant Dawson on his way inland. Suffice it to 
 say that the various members of this Expedition, of which 
 his second son, Mr. Oswell Livingstone, was one, had already 
 quitted Africa for England when these communications 
 reached Unyanyembe.) 
 
 27tfA June, 1872. Received a letter from Oswell yester- 
 day, dated Bagamoyo, 14th May, which awakened thankful- 
 ness, anxiety, and deep sorrow. 
 
 2&th. Went over to Kwikuru yesterday to speak about 
 pagazi. Nkasiwa was off at M'futu to help in the great 
 assault on Mirambo, which is hoped to be the last. But 
 Mohamad bin Seyed promised to arrange with the chief on 
 his return. I was told that Nkasiwa has the head of Morukwe 
 in a kirindo or band-box, and when Morukwe's people have 
 recovered they will come and redeem it with ivory and 
 slaves, and bury it in his grave, as they did the head of Ish- 
 bosheth in Abner's grave in Hebron. 
 
 3rd July, 1872. Received a note from Oswell, written in 
 April last, containing the sad intelligence of Sir Roderick's 
 departure from among us. Alas ! alas ! this is the only time 
 in my life I ever felt inclined to use the word, and it bespeaks 
 a sore heart : the best friend I ever had true, warm, and
 
 342 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 abiding he loved me more than I deserved : he looks down 
 on me still. I must feel resigned to the loss by the Divine 
 "Will, but still I regret and mourn. 
 
 "Wearisome waiting, this ; and yet the men cannot be here 
 before the middle or end of this month. I have been sorely 
 let and hindered in this journey, but it may have been all 
 for the best. I will trust in Him to whom I commit my 
 way. 
 
 5th. Weary ! weary ! 
 
 ^th. Waiting wearily here, and hoping that the good and 
 loving Father of all may favor me, and help me to finish my 
 work quickly and well. 
 
 Qih. Clear and cold the general weather : cold is penetra- 
 ting. War forces have gone out of M'futu and built a camp. 
 Fear of Mirambo rules them all: each one is nervously 
 anxious not to die, and in no way ashamed to own it. The 
 Arabs keep out of danger : " Better to sleep in a whole skin " 
 is their motto. 
 
 10A. No great difficulty would be encountered in estab- 
 lishing a Christian Mission a hundred miles or so from the 
 East Coast. The permission of the Sultan of Zanzibar would 
 be necessary, because all the tribes of any intelligence claim 
 relationship, or have relations with him; the Banyamwezi 
 even call themselves his subjects, and so do others. His per- 
 mission would be readily granted. 
 
 It seems indispensable that each Mission should raise its 
 own native agency. A couple of Europeans beginning, and 
 carrying on a Mission without a staff of foreign attendants, 
 implies coarse country fare, it is true, but this would be 
 nothing to those who, at home amuse themselves with fast- 
 ings, vigils, etc. A great deal of power is thus lost in the 
 Church. Fastings and vigils, without a special object in 
 view, are time run to waste. They are made to minister to 
 a sort of self-gratification, instead of being turned to account 
 for the good of others. They are like groaning in sickness. 
 Some people amuse themselves when ill with continuous 
 moaning. The forty days of Lent might be annually spent
 
 EPOCHS IN AFRICA. 343 
 
 in visiting adjacent tribes, and bearing unavoidable hunger 
 and thirst with a good grace. Considering the greatness of 
 the object to be attained, men might go without sugar, 
 coffee, tea, etc. I went from September 1866 to December 
 1868 without either. 
 
 12A. Two men come from Syde bin Habib report fight- 
 ing as going on at discreet distances against Mirambo. 
 
 Sheikh But, son of Mohamad bin Saleh, is found guilty of 
 stealing a tusk from the Lewale. He has gone in disgrace 
 to fight Mirambo : his father is disconsolate, naturally. 
 Lewale has been merciful. 
 
 When endeavoring to give some account of the slave- 
 trade of East Africa, it was necessary to keep far within the 
 truth, in order not to be thought guilty of exaggeration. 
 To overdraw its evils is a simple impossibility. The sights 
 I have seen, though common incidents of the traffic, are so 
 nauseous that I always strive to drive them from memory. 
 In the case of most disagreeable recollections I can succeed, 
 in time, in consigning them to oblivion, but the slaving 
 scenes come back unbidden, and make me start up at dead 
 of night horrified by their vividness. To some this may 
 appear weak and unphilosophical, sine 3 it is alleged that the 
 whole human race has passed through the process of develop- 
 ment. "We may compare cannibalism to the stone age, and 
 the times of slavery to the iron and bronze epochs slavery 
 is as natural a step in human development as from bronze to 
 iron. 
 
 Whilst speaking of the stone age I may add that in Africa 
 I have never been fortunate enough to find one flint arrow- 
 head or any other flint implement, though I had my eyes 
 about me as diligently as any of my neighbors. No roads 
 are made ; no lands leveled ; no drains digged ; no quarries 
 worked, nor any of the changes made on the earth's surface 
 that might reveal fragments of the primitive manufacture of 
 stone. Yet but little could be inferred from the negative 
 evidence, were it not accompanied by the fact that flint does 
 not exist in any part south of the Equator. Quartz might
 
 344 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 have been used, but no remains exist, except the half-worn 
 millstones, and stones about the size of oranges, used for 
 chipping and making rough the nether millstone. Glazed 
 pipes and earthenware used in smelting iron, show that iron 
 was smelted in the remotest ages in Africa. These earthen- 
 ware vessels, and fragments of others of a finer texture, 
 were found in the delta of the Zambesi and in other parts in 
 close association with fossil bones, which, on being touched 
 by the tongue, showed as complete an absence of animal 
 matter as the most ancient fossils known in Europe. They 
 were the bones of animals, as hippopotami, water hogs, 
 antelopes, crocodiles, identical with those now living in the 
 country. 
 
 These were the primitive fauna of Africa, and if vitrified 
 iron from the prodigious number of broken smelting fur- 
 naces all over the country was known from the remotest 
 times, the Africans seem to have had a start in the race, at 
 a time when our progenitors were grubbing up flints to save 
 a miserable existence by the game they might kill. Slave- 
 trading seems to have been coeval with the knowledge of 
 iron. The monuments of Egypt show that this curse has 
 venerable antiquity. 
 
 Some people say, " If so ancient, why try to stop an old 
 established usage now?" Well, some believe that the 
 affliction that befel the most ancient of all patriarchs, Job, 
 was small-pox. Why then stop the ravages of this venera- 
 able disease in London and New York by vaccination ? 
 
 But no one expects any benevolent efforts from those who 
 cavil and carp at efforts made by governments and peoples 
 to heal the enormous open sore of the world. Some profess 
 that they would rather give " their mite " for the degraded 
 of our own countrymen than to " niggers ! " Yerily it is " a 
 mite," and they most often forget, and make a gift of it to 
 themselves. It is almost an axiom that those who do most 
 for the heathen abroad are most liberal for the heathen 
 at home. It is to this class we turn with hope. With 
 others arguments are useless, and the only answer I care to
 
 MOSLEM GALLANTRY. 345 
 
 give is the remark of an English sailor, who, on seeing slave- 
 traders actually at their occupation, said to his companion, 
 " Shiver my timbers, mate, if the devil don't catch these 
 fellows, we might as well have no devil at all." 
 
 In conversing with a prince at Johanna, one of the Comoro 
 Islands lying off the north end of Madagascar, he took 
 occasion to extol the wisdom of the Arabs in keeping strict 
 watch over their wives. On suggesting that their extreme 
 jealousy made them more like jailers than friends of their 
 wives, or, indeed, that they thus reduced themselves to the 
 inferior animals, and each was like the bull of a herd and 
 not like a reasonable man " f uguswa " and that they gave 
 themselves a vast deal of trouble for very small profit ; he 
 asserted that the jealousy was reasonable because all women 
 were bad, they could not avoid going astray. And on 
 remarking that this might be the case with Arab women, 
 but certainly did not apply to English women, for though a 
 number were untrustworthy, the majority deserved all the 
 confidence their husbands could place in them, he reiterated 
 that women were universally bad. He did not believe that 
 women ever would be good ; and the English allowing their 
 wives to gad about with faces uncovered, only showed their 
 weakness, ignorance, and unwisdom. 
 
 The tendency and spirit of the age are more and more 
 towards the undertaking of industrial enterprises of such 
 magnitude and skill as to require the capital of the world for 
 their support and execution as the Pacific Railroad, Suez 
 Canal, Mont Cenis Tunnel, and railways in India and Western 
 Asia, Euphrates Railroad, etc. The extension and use of 
 railroads, steamships, telegraphs, break down nationalities and 
 bring peoples geographically remote into close connection 
 commercially and politically. They make the world one, and 
 capital, like water, tends to a common level. 
 
 Vlth. Went over to Sultan bin AH yesterday. Very 
 kind, as usual; he gave me guavas and a melon called 
 " matanga." It is reported that one of Mirambo's chief men, 
 Sorura, set sharp sticks in concealed holes, which acted like
 
 346 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Bruce's " craw-taes " at Bannockburn, and wounded several, 
 probably the twenty reported. This has induced the Arabs 
 to send for a cannon they have, with which to batter Mi- 
 rambo at a distance. The gun is borne past us this morning : 
 a brass 7-pounder, dated 1679. Carried by the Portuguese 
 Commander-in-Chief to China 1679, or 193 years ago and 
 now to beat Mirambo, by Arabs who have very little interest 
 in the war. 
 
 [Mtesa's people on their way back to Uganda were stuck 
 fast at Unyanyembe the whole of this time: it does not 
 appear at all who the missionary was to whom he refers.] 
 
 Lewale sends off the Baganda in a great hurry, after detain- 
 ing them for six months or more till the war ended, and 
 he now gets pagazi of Banyamwezi for them. This haste 
 (though war is not ended) is probably because Lewale has 
 heard of a missionary through me. 
 
 19^A. Visited Salim bin Seff, and was very hospitably 
 entertained. He was disappointed that I could not eat 
 largely. They live very comfortably: grow wheat, whilst 
 flour and fruits grace their board. Salim says that goat's 
 flesh at Zanzibar is better than beef, but here beef is better 
 than goat's flesh. He is a stout, jolly fellow. 
 
 21st. Some philosophising is curious. It represents our 
 Maker forming the machine of the universe: setting it 
 a-going, and able to do nothing more outside certain of His 
 own laws. He, as it were, laid the egg of the whole, and, 
 like an ostrich, left it to be hatched by the sun. "We can 
 control laws, but He cannot 1 A fire set to this house would 
 consume it, but we can throw on water and consume the fire. 
 We control the elements, fire and water: is He debarred 
 from doing the same, and more, who has infinite wisdom and 
 knowledge ? He surely is greater than His own laws. Civil- 
 ization is only what has been done with natural laws. Some 
 foolish speculations in morals resemble the idea of a Baganda, 
 who said last night, that if Mtesa didn't kill people now and 
 then, his subjects would suppose that he was dead ! 
 
 23rd. The departure of the Baganda is countermanded, 
 for fear of Mirambo capturing their gunpowder.
 
 THE WEARY WAR 34.7 
 
 Lewale interdicts them from going ; he says, " You may- 
 go, but leave all the gunpowder here, because Mirarnbo will 
 follow and take it all to fight with us." This is an after- 
 thought, for he hurried them to go off. A few will go and 
 take the news and some goods to Mtesa, and probably a lot 
 of Lewale's goods to trade at Karagwe. The Baganda are 
 angry, for now their cattle and much of their property are 
 expended here ; but they say, " We are strangers, and what 
 can we do but submit ? " 
 
 2th. The Bagohe retire from the war. This month is 
 unlucky. 
 
 27tfA. At dawn a loud rumbling in the east as if of 
 thunder, possibly a slight earthquake; no thunder-clouds 
 visible. 
 
 Bin Nassib came last night and visited me before going 
 home to his own house ; a tall, brown, polite Arab. A party 
 of native traders who went with the Baganda were attacked 
 by Mirambo's people, and driven back with the loss of all 
 their goods and one killed. The fugitives returned this 
 morning sorely downcast. 
 
 29^. Making flour of rice for the journey. Yisited 
 Sheikh bin Nassib, who has a severe attack of fever ; he can- 
 not avoid going to the war. He bought a donkey with the 
 tusk he stole from Lewale, and it died yesterday; now 
 Lewale says, "Give me back my tusk;" and the Arab 
 replies, " Give me back my donkey." The father must pay, 
 but his son's character is lost as well as the donkey. Bin 
 Nassib gave me a present of wheaten bread and cakes. 
 
 30th. Weary waiting this, and the best time for traveling 
 passes over unused. High winds from the east every day 
 bring cold, and, to the thinly-clad Arabs, fever. 
 
 31st. We heard yesterday from Sahib bin Nassib that the 
 caravan of his brother Kisessa was at a spot in Ugogo, twelve 
 days off. My party had gone by another route. Thankful, 
 for even this in my wearisome waiting.
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 LIVINGSTONE BEGINS HIS LAST JOUKNEY. 
 
 AUGUST IST, 1872. A large part of Baganda have come 
 to see what is stopping the way to Mtesa, about ten 
 headmen and their followers ; but they were told by an Arab 
 in Usui that the war with Mirambo was over. About seventy 
 of them come on here to-morrow, only to be despatched back 
 to fetch all the Baganda in Usui, to aid in fighting Mirambo. 
 It is proposed to take a stockade near the central one, and 
 therein build a battery for the cannon, which seems a wise 
 measure. These arrivals are a poor, slave-looking people, 
 clad in bark-cloth, " Mbuzu," and having shields with a boss 
 in the center, round, end about the size of the ancient High- 
 landers' targe, but made of reeds. 
 
 3rd. Visited Salem bin Seff, who is ill of fever. 
 
 4th. Wearisome waiting, and the sun is now rainy at mid- 
 day, and will become hotter right on to the hot season in 
 November, but this delay may be all for the best. 
 
 5th. In many parts one is struck by the fact of the chil- 
 dren having so few games. Life is a serious business, and 
 amusement is derived from imitating the vocations of the 
 parents hut building, making little gardens, bows and ar- 
 rows, shields, and spears. Elsewhere boys are very ingenious 
 little fellows, and have several games ; they also shoot birds 
 with bows, and teach captured linnets to sing. They are expert 
 in making guns and traps for small birds, and in making and 
 using bird-lime. They make play-guns of reed, which go off 
 with a trigger and spring, with a cloud of ashes for smoke.
 
 THE MEN ARRIVE AT LAST. 349 
 
 Sometimes they make double-barreled guns of clay, and have 
 cotton-fluff as smoke. 
 
 * * * "What is the atonement of Christ ? It is Him- 
 self: it is the inherent and everlasting mercy of God made 
 apparent to human eyes and ears. The everlasting love was 
 disclosed by our Lord's life and death. It showed that God 
 forgives, because He loves to forgive. He works by smiles 
 if possible, if not by frowns; pain is only a means of 
 enforcing love. 
 
 If we speak of strength, lo ! He is strong. The Almighty ; 
 the Over Power ; the Mind of the Universe. The heart 
 thrills at the idea of His greatness. 
 
 th. Wagtails begin to discard their young, which feed 
 themselves. I can think of nothing but " when will these 
 men come ? " Sixty days was the period named, now it is 
 eighty-four. It may be all for the best, in the good Provi- 
 dence of the Most High. 
 
 9tfA. I do most devoutly thank the Lord for His goodness 
 in bringing my men near to this. Three came to-day, and 
 how thankful I am I cannot express. It is well the men 
 who went with Mr. Stanley came again to me. " Bless the 
 Lord, O my soul, and all that is within me, bless His holy 
 name." Amen. 
 
 [At last this trying suspense was put an end to by the 
 arrival of a troop of fifty-seven men and boys, made up of 
 porters hired by Mr. Stanley on the coast, and some more 
 Nassick pupils sent from Bombay to join Lieut. Dawson. 
 We find the names of John and Jacob Wainwright amongst 
 the latter on Mr. Stanley's list. 
 
 Before we incorporate these new recruits on the muster- 
 roll of Dr. Livingstone's servants, it seems right to point to 
 five names which alone represented at this time the list of 
 his original followers ; these were Susi, Chumah, and Amoda, 
 who joined him in 1864 on the Zambesi, that is eight years 
 previously, and Mabruki and Gardner, Nassick boys, hired 
 in 1866. We shall see that the new-comers by degrees be- 
 came accustomed to the hardships of travel, and shared with
 
 350 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 the old servants all the danger of the last heroic march home. 
 Nor must we forget that it was to the intelligence and supe- 
 rior education of Jacob Wainwright (whom we now meet 
 with for the first time) that we were indebted for the earliest 
 account of the eventful eighteen months during which he 
 was attached to the party. 
 
 And now all is pounding, packing, bargaining, weighing, 
 and disputing amongst the porters. Amidst the inseparable 
 difficulties of an African start, one thankful heart gathers 
 comfort and courage : ] 
 
 15th. The men came yesterday (14th), having been sev- 
 enty-four days from Bagamoyo. Most thankful to the Giver 
 of all good I am. I have to give them a rest of a few days, 
 and then start. 
 
 16A. An earthquake " Kiti-ki-sha ! " about 7 P.M., shook 
 me in my katanda with quick vibrations. They gradually 
 became fainter : it lasted some 50 seconds, and was observed 
 by many. 
 
 . Preparing things. 
 
 -. Went to bid adieu to Sultan bin Ali, and left goods 
 with him for the return journey, and many cartridges full 
 and empty, nails for boat, two iron pillars, &c. 
 
 . Waiting for pagazi. Sultan bin Ali called. 
 . Weighed all the loads again, and gave an equal load 
 of 50 Ibs. to each, and half loads to the Nassickers. Ma- 
 bruki Speke is left at Tabora with Sultan bin Ali. He has 
 long been sick, and is unable to go with us. 
 
 21srf. Gave people an ox, and to a discarded wife a cloth, 
 to avoid exposure by her husband stripping her. She is 
 somebody's child ! 
 
 22ne?. Sunday. All ready, but ten pagazi lacking. 
 
 23/Y?. Cannot get pagazi. Most are sent off to the war. 
 
 25A. Started and went one hour to village of Manga or 
 Tuba by a granite ridge ; the weather clear, and a fine breeze 
 from the east refreshes. It is important to give short marches 
 at first. Marched 1M hours. 
 
 Two Nassickers lost a cow out of ten head of cat-
 
 THE START FROM UNYANYEMBE. 35} 
 
 tie. Marched to Borna of Mayonda. Sent back five men 
 to look after the cow. Cow not found : she was our best 
 milker. 
 
 27th. Started for Ebulua and Kasekera of Mamba. 
 
 2Sth. Reached Mayole village in 2 hours and rested ; S. 
 and by "W. Water is scarce in front. Through flat forest to 
 a marshy-looking piece of water, where we camp, after a 
 march of IK hours ; still S. by "W. 
 
 29th. On through level forest without water. Trees 
 present a dry, wintry aspect; grass dry, but some flowers 
 shoot out, and fresh grass where the old growth has been 
 burnt off. 
 
 30th. The two Nassickers lost all the cows yesterday, from 
 sheer laziness. They were found a long way off, and one cow 
 missing. Susi gave them ten cuts each with a switch. En- 
 gaging pagazi and rest. 
 
 31st. Pass Kisari's village, one and a half mile distant, 
 and on to Penta, or Phinta, to sleep, through perfectly flat 
 forest. 
 
 \st September, 1872. The same flat forest to Chikulu S. 
 and by W., 4 hours 25 m. Manyara called, and is going 
 with us to-morrow. Bought food and served out rations to 
 the men for ten days, as water is scarce, and but little food 
 can be obtained at the villages. The country is very dry and 
 wintry-looking, but flowers shoot out. First clouds all over 
 to-day. It is hot now. 
 
 2nd. The people are preparing their ten days' food. Two 
 pagazi ran away with 24 dotis of the men's calico. Sent 
 after them, but with small hopes of capturing them. 
 
 3rd. Unsuccessful search. 
 
 4th. Leave Chikulu's, and pass a large puff-adder in the 
 way. A single blow on the head killed it, so that it did not 
 stir. About three feet long, and as thick as a man's arm, a 
 short tail, and flat, broad head. The men say this is a very 
 good sign for our journey, though it would have been a bad 
 sign, and suffering and death, had one trodden on it. 
 
 5th. A long, hot tramp to Manyara's. He is a kind old 
 man. Many of the men very tired and sick. S.S.W.
 
 352 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 6th. Rest the caravan, as we shall have to make forced 
 marches on account of tsetse fly. 
 
 1th. Obliged to remain, as several are ill with fever. 
 
 Sth. On to N'gombo nullah. Very hot, and people ill. 
 Tsetse. A poor woman of Ujiji followed one of Stanley's 
 men to the coast. He cast her off here, and she was taken 
 by another ; but her temper seems too excitable. She set 
 fire to her hut by accident, and in the excitement quarreled 
 all round; she is a somebody's bairn nevertheless; a tall, 
 strapping young woman, she must have been the pride of her 
 parents. 
 
 9th. Telekeza * at broad part of the nullah, then went on 
 two hours and passed the night in the forest. 
 
 lO^A. On to Mweras, and spent one night there by a pool 
 in the forest. Tillage two miles off. 
 
 11^. On 8K hours to Telekeza. Sun very hot. 
 
 12th. We went till 2 P.M., then made a march, and to- 
 morrow get to villages. Got a buffalo, and remain over night. 
 Water is in haematite. I engaged four pagazi here. 
 
 15th. On to near range of hills. 111. 
 
 IQth. Climbed over range about 200 feet high; then on 
 westward to stockaded villages of Kamirambo. 
 
 17th. To Metambo River : 1M broad, and marshy. Here 
 begins the land of Merera. Through forest with many 
 strychnus trees, 3M hours, and arrive at Merera's. 
 
 18th. Remain at Merera's to prepare food. 
 
 19th. Ditto, ditto, because I am ill with bowels, having 
 eaten nothing for eight days. Simba wants us to pass by his 
 village, and not by the straight path. 
 
 20rfA. Went to Simba's; 3^ hours. About north-west. 
 Simba sent a handsome present of food, a goat, eggs, and a 
 fowl, beans, split rice, dura, and sesame. I gave him three 
 dotis of superior cloth. 
 
 21st. Rest here, as the complaint does not yield to medi- 
 cine or time ; but I begin to eat now, which is a favorable 
 
 *Mid-day halt.
 
 THE MARCH SOUTHWARD. 353 
 
 symptom. Under a lofty tree at Simba's, a kite, the common 
 brown one, had two pure white eggs in its nest, larger than 
 a fowl's and very spherical. 
 
 %%nd. Preparing food, and one man pretends inability to 
 walk ; send for some pagazi to carry loads of those who carry 
 him. Simba sends copious libations of pombe. 
 
 %Srd. The pagazi, after demanding enormous pay, walked 
 off. We went on along rocky banks of a stream, and, cross- 
 ing it, camped, because the next water is far off. 
 
 24tfA. Recovering and thankful, but weak ; cross broad, 
 sedgy stream, and so on to Boma Misonghi, W. and by S. 
 
 25th. Got a buffalo and M'jure, and remain to eat them. 
 I am getting better slowly. The M'jure, or water hog, was 
 all eaten by hyaenas during night ; the buffalo is safe. 
 
 26tfA. Through forest, along the side of a sedgy valley. 
 Cross its head water, which has rust of iron in it, then W. 
 and by S. Zebras calling loudly, and Senegal long claw in 
 our camp at dawn, with its cry, " O-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o." 
 
 27rfA. On at dawn. No water expected, but we crossed 
 three abundant supplies before we came to hill of our camp. 
 Much game about here. Getting well again thanks. !No 
 people, or marks of them. 
 
 28tfA. Buffaloes grazing. Many of the men sick. Whilst 
 camping, a large musk cat broke forth among us and was 
 killed. 
 
 . Very hot, and many sick in consequence. Course W. 
 . Away among low, tree-covered hills of granite and 
 sandstone. Found that Bangala had assaulted the village to 
 which we went a few days ago, and all were fugitives. 
 
 1st October, 1872. On through much deserted cultivation 
 in rich damp soil. Surrounded with low, tree-covered ranges. 
 We saw a few people, but all are in terror. 
 
 2nd. Obtained M'tama in abundance for brass wire, and 
 remained to grind it. 
 
 3rd. Southwards, and down a steep descent into a rich 
 valley with much green maize in ear ; people friendly ; but 
 it was but one hour's march, so we went on through hilly
 
 354: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 country S."W. Men firing off ammunition, had to be pun- 
 ished. Farjella shot a fine buffalo. 
 
 4th. Over the same hilly country. Came to a fine valley 
 with a large herd of zebras feeding quietly ; pretty animals. 
 We went only an hour and a half to-day, as one sick man is 
 carried, and it is hot and trying for all. I feel it much inter- 
 nally, and am glad to move slowly. 
 
 5th. Up and down mountains, very sore on legs and 
 lungs. Trying to save donkey's strength I climbed and 
 descended, and as soon as I mounted, off he set as hard as 
 he could run, and he felt not the bridle; the saddle was 
 loose, but I stuck on till we reached water in a bamboo hol- 
 low with spring. 
 
 6th. A long bamboo valley with giraffes in it. Eange on 
 our right stretches away from us, and that on the left dwin- 
 dled down; all covered with bamboos, in tufts like other 
 grasses; elephants eat them. Traveled W. and by S. 2M 
 hours. Short marches on account of carrying one sick man. 
 
 1th. Over fine park-like country, with large belts of bam- 
 boo and fine, broad, shady trees. 
 
 8th. Came on early as sun is hot, and in two hours saw 
 the Tanganyika from a gentle hill. All are very tired, and 
 in coming to a stockade we were refused admittance, because 
 Malongwana had attacked them lately, and we might seize 
 them when in this stronghold. Yery true ; so we sit outside 
 in the shade of a single palm (Borassus). 
 
 9th. Rest, because all are tired, and several sick. This 
 heat makes me useless, and constrains me to lie like a log. 
 Inwardly I feel tired too. Jangeange leaves us to-morrow, 
 having found canoes going to Ujiji. 
 
 10th. People very tired, and it being, moreover, Sunday, 
 we rest. Gave each a keta of beads. TJsowa chief Ponda. 
 
 Ilth. Reach Kalema district after 2M hours over black 
 mud all deeply cracked, and many deep torrents now dry. 
 Kalema is a stockade. "We see Tanganyika, but a range of 
 low hills intervenes. A rumor of war to-morrow. 
 
 . We wait till 2 P.M., and then make a forced march
 
 SKIRTING TANGANYIKA. 355 
 
 towards Fipa. The people cultivate but little, for fear of 
 enemies; so we can buy few provisions. Course S.W. to 
 brink of Tanganyika water. 
 
 13^A. Our course went along the top of a range of hills 
 lying parallel with the lake. A great part of yesterday was 
 on the same range. It is a thousand feet above the water, 
 and is covered with trees rather scraggy. At sunset the red 
 glare on the surface made the water look like a sea of reddish 
 gold ; it seemed so near that many went off to drink, but 
 were three or four hours in doing so. Yery hot weather. 
 To the town of Fipa to-morrow. Course about S. Our 
 drum is the greatest object of curiosity we have to the Ban- 
 yam wezi. 
 
 \th. Crossed two deep gullies with sluggish water im 
 them, and one surrounding an old stockade. Camp on a 
 knoll, overlooking modern stockade and Tanganyika very 
 pleasantly. Saw two beautiful sultanas with azure blue necks. 
 We might have come here yesterday, but were too tired. 
 
 \oth. Rest, and kill an ox. The dry heat is distressing,, 
 and all feel it sorely. I am right glad of the rest, but keep 
 on as constantly as I can. By giving dura and maize to the 
 donkeys, and riding on alternate days, they hold on ; but I 
 feel the sun more than if walking. The chief Kariaria is 
 civil. 
 
 \&th. Leave Mokaia and go south. The people set fire 
 to our camp as soon as we started. 
 
 \7th. Leave a bay of Tanganyika, and go on to Mpimbwe ; 
 two lions growled savagely as we passed. Game is swarm- 
 ing here, but my men cannot shoot except to make a noise. 
 
 18^. Went on about south among mountains all day till 
 we came down, by a little westing, to the lake again, where 
 there were some large villages, well stockaded, with a deep 
 gully half round them. Ill with my old complaint again. 
 Bubwe is the chief here. Food dear. 
 
 . Remained to prepare food and rest the people. 
 . We got a water-buck and a large buffalo. Went on 
 and passed a large arm of Tanganyika, having a bar of hills
 
 356 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 on its outer border. Country swarming with large game. 
 Passed two bomas, and spent the night near one of them. 
 
 2lst. Mokassa, a Moganda boy, has a swelling of the 
 ankle, which prevents his walking. We went one hour to 
 find wood to make a litter for him. The bomas round the 
 villages are plastered with mud, so as to intercept balls or 
 arrows. The trees are all cut down for these stockades, and 
 the flats are cut up with deep gullies. 
 
 I sent a doti to the headman of the village, where we 
 made the litter, to ask for a guide to take us straight south 
 instead of going east to Fipa, which is four days off and out 
 of our course. Tipo Tipo is said to be at Morero. 
 
 22nd. Turned back westwards, and went through the 
 hills down to some large islets in the t lake, and camped in 
 villages destroyed by Simba. 
 
 23?'d. First east, arid then passed two deep bays, at one 
 of which we put up, as they had food to sell. Wherever 
 buffaloes are to be caught, falling traps are suspended over 
 the path in the trees near the water. 
 
 24^A. There are many rounded bays in mountainous Fipa. 
 We rested two hours in a deep shady dell, and then came 
 along a very slippery mountain-side to a village in a stockade. 
 It is very hot to-day, and the first thunder-storm away in the 
 east. The name of this village is Linde. 
 
 25A. We went up south-east, then over a high, steep hill 
 to turn to south again, then down into a valley of Tangan- 
 yika, over another stony side, and down to a dell with a 
 village in it. The west coast is very plain to-day. 
 
 26A. Over hills and mountains again, past two deep bays, 
 and on to a large bay with a prominent islet on the south 
 side of it, called Kitanda, from the chief's name. 
 
 27A. Remained to buy food, which is very dear. We 
 slaughtered a tired cow to exchange for provisions. 
 
 28A. Left Kitanda, and came round the cape, going 
 south. We came to three villages and some large spreading 
 trees, where we were invited by the headman to remain, as 
 the next stage along the shore is long. The people brought
 
 MOUNTAIN CLIMBING. 357 
 
 in a leopard in great triumph. Its mouth and all its claws 
 were bound with grass and bands of bark, as if to make it 
 quite safe, and its tail was curled round: drumming and 
 lullilooing in plenty. 
 
 The chief Mosirwa paid us a visit, and is preparing a 
 present of food. One of his men was bitten by the leopard 
 in the arm before he killed it. The lake is about twelve or 
 fifteen miles broad, at latitude 7 52' south. Tipo Tipo is 
 ruling in Itawa, and bound a chief in chains, but loosed him 
 on being requested to do so by Syde bin Ali. It takes about 
 three hours to cross at Morilo. 
 
 29th. The mountains now close in on Tanganyika, so 
 there is no path but one, over which luggage cannot be 
 carried. The stage after this is six hours up hill before we 
 come to water. This forced me to stop after only a short, 
 crooked march of two and a quarter hours. We are now on 
 the confines of Fipa. The next march takes us into Bu- 
 rungu. 
 
 30A. The highest parts of the mountains are from 500 
 feet to 700 feet higher than the passes, say from 1,300 feet 
 to 1,500 feet above the lake. A very rough march to-day ; 
 one cow fell, and was disabled. We arrive at a village on 
 the lake shore. Thunder all the morning, and a few drops 
 of rain fell. It will ease the men's feet when it does fall. 
 They call out earnestly for it, " Come, come with hail ! " and 
 prepare their huts for it. 
 
 31st. Through a long pass after we had climbed over 
 Winelao. Came to an islet one and a half mile long, called 
 Kapessa, and then into a long pass. The population of Me- 
 gunda must have been prodigious, for all the stones have 
 been cleared, and every available inch of soil cultivated. 
 
 The population are said to have been all swept away by 
 the Matuta. 
 
 Going south we come to a very large arm of the lake with 
 a village at the end of it in a stockade. This arm is seven 
 or eight miles long and about two broad.
 
 CHAPTER XXHI. 
 TERRIBLE MARCHES AND FAILING HEALTH. 
 
 "YTOVEMBER IST, 18T2. We hear that an eruption of 
 -ll Babemba, on the Baulungu, destroyed all the food. 
 "We tried to buy food here, but everything is hidden in the 
 mountains, so we have to wait to-day till they fetch it. If in 
 time, we shall make an afternoon's march. Raining to-day. 
 
 %nd. Deceived by a guide, who probably feared his 
 countrymen in front. "Went round a stony cape, and then 
 to a land-locked harbor, three miles long by two broad. Here 
 was a stockade, where our guide absconded. They told us 
 that if we continued our march we should not get water for 
 four hours, so we rested, having marched four and a quarter 
 hours. 
 
 3rd. "We marched this morning to a village where food 
 was reported. I had to punish two useless men for calling 
 out, " Posho ! posho ! posho ! " (rations) as soon as I came 
 near. One is a confirmed bange-smoker ; the blows were 
 given slightly, but I promised that the next should be severe. 
 The people of Liemba village having a cow or two, and 
 some sheep and goats, eagerly advised us to go on to the 
 next village, as being just behind a hill and well-provisioned. 
 Four very rough hills were the penalty of our credulity, 
 taking four hours of incessant toil in these mountain fast- 
 nesses. They hide their food, and the paths are the most diffi- 
 cult that can be found, in order to wear out their enemies. 
 To-day we got to the River Luazi, having marched five and a 
 half hours, and sighting Tanganyika near us twice.
 
 THE MARCH TELLS SEVERELY. 359 
 
 4th. All very tired. We tried to get food, but it is very 
 dear, and difficult to bargain for. Goods are probably 
 brought from Fipa. A rest will be beneficial to us. 
 
 5th. We went up a high mountain, but found that one of 
 the cows could not climb up, so I sent back and ordered it to 
 be slaughtered, waiting on the top of the mountain whilst the 
 people went down for water. 
 
 6th. Pass a deep narrow bay and climb a steep mountain. 
 Too much for the best donkey. After a few hours' climb 
 we look down on the lake, with its many bays. A sleepy glare 
 floats over it. Further on we came on a ledge of rocks, and 
 looked sheer down 500 or 600 feet into its dark green waters. 
 
 7tfA. Sunday. Remained, but the headman forbade his 
 people to sell us food. We keep quiet except to invite him 
 to a parley, which he refuses, and makes loud lullilooing in 
 defiance, as if he were inclined to fighting. At last, seeing 
 that we took no notice of him, he sent us a present ; I 
 returned three times its value. 
 
 8th. The large donkey is very ill, and unable to climb the 
 high mountain in our front. I left men to coax him on, and 
 they did it well. I then sent some to find a path out from 
 the Lake mountains, for they will kill us all ; others were 
 dispatched to buy food, but the Lake folks are poor except in 
 fish. 
 
 The sun makes the soil so hot that the radiation is as if it 
 came from a furnace. It burns the feet of the people, and 
 knocks them up. Sub-cutaneous inflammation is frequent in 
 the legs, and makes some of my most hardy men useless. 
 We have been compelled to slowness very much against my 
 will. I too was ill, and became better only by marching on 
 foot. Riding exposes one to the bad influence of the sun, 
 while by walking the perspiration modifies beneficially the 
 excessive heat. It is like the difference in effect of cold if 
 one is in activity or sitting, and falling asleep on a stage-coach. 
 
 9th. We got very little food, and kill a calf to fill our 
 mouths a little. A path east seems to lead out from these 
 mountains of Tanganyika. We went on east this morning
 
 360 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 in highland open forest, then descended by a long slope to a 
 valley in which there is water. Many Milenga gardens, but 
 the people keep out of sight. The highlands are of a purple 
 color from the new leaves coming out. The donkey began 
 to eat to my great joy. Men sent off to search for a village 
 return empty-handed, and we must halt. I am ill and losing 
 much blood. 
 
 10th. Out from the Lake mountains, and along high 
 ridges of sandstone and dolomite. Our guide volunteered 
 to take the men on to a place where food can be bought a 
 very acceptable offer. The donkey is recovering; it was 
 distinctly the effects of tsetse, for the eyes and all the rnoutb 
 and nostrils swelled) 
 
 \\th. Over gently undulating country, with many old 
 gardens and watch-houses, some of great height, we reached 
 the Biver Kalambo, which I know as falling into Tanganyika. 
 
 ~LSth. Arrived at Zombe's town, which is built in such a 
 manner that the river runs through it, whilst a stiff palisade 
 surrounds it. 
 
 16rfA. After waiting some time for the men, I sent men 
 back yesterday to look after the sick donkey ; they arrived, 
 but the donkey died this morning. It is a great loss to me. 
 
 Vlth. We went on along the bottom of a high ridge that 
 flanks the lake on the west, and then turned up south-east to 
 a village hung on the edge of a deep chasm in which flows 
 the Aeezy. 
 
 IStk. We were soon overwhelmed in a pouring rain, 
 and had to climb up the slippery red path which is parallel 
 and near to Mbette's. One of the men picked up a little girl 
 who had been deserted by her mother. As she was benumbed 
 by cold and wet he carried her ; but when I came up he threw 
 her into the grass. I ordered a man to carry her, and we 
 gave her to one of the childless women ; she is about four 
 years old, and not at all negro-looking. Our march took us 
 about S.W. to Kampamba's, the son of Kasonso, who is dead. 
 
 19tfA. I visited Kampamba. He is still as agreeable aa 
 he was before when he went with us to Liemba. I gave him
 
 KASONSO'S SUCCESSOR. 361 
 
 two cloths as a present. He has a good-sized village. There 
 are heavy rains now and then every day. 
 
 %Qth-23rd. The men turn to stringing beads for future 
 use, and to all except defaulters I give a present of 2 dotis, 
 and a handful of beads each. .1 have diminished the loads 
 considerably, which pleases them much. We have now 3^ 
 loads of calico, and 120 bags of beads. One of our men is 
 behind, sick with dysentery. I am obliged to leave him, 
 but have sent for him twice, and have given him cloth and 
 beads. 
 
 24ith. Left Kampamba's to-day, and cross a meadow S.E. 
 of the village in which the River Muanani rises. It flows 
 into the Kapondosi and so on to the lake. We made good 
 way with Kiteneka as our guide, who formerly accompanied 
 Kampamba and ourselves to Liemba. 
 
 We came at last to Kasonso's successor's village on the 
 River Molulwe, which is, say, thirty yards wide, and thigh 
 deep. It goes to the Lofu. The chief here gave a sheep a 
 welcome present, for I was out of flesh for four days. Kam- 
 pamba is stingy as compared with his father. 
 
 25th. We came in an hour's march to a rivulet called the 
 Casembe the departed Kasonso lived here. 
 
 26rfA. Started at daybreak. The grass was loaded with 
 dew, and a heavy mist hung over everything. 
 
 27^A. As it is Sunday we stay here at N'dari's village, for 
 we shall be in an uninhabited track to-morrow, beyond the 
 Lofu. The headman cooked six messes for us and begged 
 us to remain for more food, which we buy. He gave us a 
 handsome present of flour and a fowl, for which I return him 
 a present of a doti. Very heavy rain and high gusts of wind, 
 which wet us all. 
 
 2SA. We came to the River Lofu in a mile. It is sixty 
 feet across and very deep. We made a bridge, and cut the 
 banks down, so that the donkey and cattle could pass over. 
 It took us two hours, during which time we hauled them all 
 across with a rope. 
 
 . Crossed the Loozi in two branches, and climbed up
 
 362 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 the gentle ascent of Malembe to the village of Chiwe, whom 
 I formerly called Chibwe, being misled by the Yao tongue. 
 
 Chiwe presented a small goat with crooked legs and some 
 millet flour, but he grumbled at the size of the fathom cloth 
 I gave. I offered another fathom, and a bundle of needles, 
 but he grumbled at this too, and sent it back. On this I 
 returned his goat and marched. 
 
 [The road lay through the same country among low hills, 
 for several miles, till they came on the 1st December to a 
 rivulet called Katanta, where curiously enough they found a 
 nutmeg-tree in full bearing. In two places he says : ] 
 
 Who planted the nutmeg-tree on the Katanta ? 
 
 [Passing on with heavy rain pouring down, they now 
 found themselves in the Wemba country.] 
 
 3rd December, 1872. No food to be got on account of 
 M'toka's and Tipo Tipo's raids, 
 
 We crossed the Lampussi twice ; it is forty yards wide, 
 and knee deep ; our course is W.N.W. for about 4^ hours 
 to-day. We camped and sent men to search for a village 
 that has food. My third barometer (aneroid) is incurably 
 injured by a fall, the man who carried it slipped upon a 
 clayey path. 
 
 4th. Waiting for the return of our men in a green wooded 
 valley on the Lampussi River. Those who were sent yester- 
 day return without anything ; they were directed falsely by 
 the country people, where nought could be bought. The 
 people themselves are living on grubs, roots, and fruits. 
 The young plasterer Sphex is very fat on coming out of its 
 clay house, and a -good relish for food. A man came to us 
 demanding his wife and child ; they are probably in hiding; 
 the slaves of Tipo Tipo have been capturing people. One 
 sinner destroyeth much good ! 
 
 6th. The people eat mushrooms and leaves. My men 
 returned about 5 P.M. with two of Kafimbe's men bringing a 
 present of food to me. A little was bought, and we go on 
 to-morrow to sleep two nights on the way, and so to Kafimbe, 
 who is a brother of Ksama's, and fights him.
 
 CASEMBE'S HEAD ON A POLE. 363 
 
 6th. We cross the Lampussi again, and up to a mountain 
 along which we go, and then down to some ruins. This took 
 us five hours, and then with 2^ more hours we reach Sintila. 
 We hasten along as fast as hungry men (four of them sick) 
 can go to get food. 
 
 7th. Off at 6.15 A.M. A leopard broke in upon us last 
 night and bit a woman. She screamed, and so did the 
 donkey, and it ran off. Our course lay along between two 
 ranges of low hills, then, where they ended, we went by a 
 good-sized stream thirty yards or so across, and then down 
 into a valley to Kafimbe's. 
 
 8th. Very heavy rains. I visited Kafimbe. He is an 
 intelligent and pleasant young man. 
 
 $th. Send off men to a distance for food, and wait of 
 course. Here there is none for either love or money. To-day 
 a man came from the Arab party at Kumbakumba's with a 
 present of M'chele and a goat. He reports that they have 
 killed Casembe, whose people concealed from him the 
 approach of the enemy till they were quite near. Having 
 no stockade, he fell an easy prey to them. The conquerors 
 put his head and all his ornaments on poles. His pretty 
 wife escaped over Mofwe, and the slaves of the Arabs ran 
 riot everywhere. We sent a return present. 
 
 10th. Left Kafimbe's. He gave us three men to take us 
 into Chama's village, and came a mile along the road with 
 us. Our road took us by a winding course from one little 
 deserted village to another. 
 
 llth. Being far from water we went two hours across a 
 plain dotted with villages to a muddy rivulet called the 
 Hukubwe, where we found the village of a nephew of Nsama. 
 This young fellow was very liberal in gifts of food, and in 
 return 1 gave him two cloths. An Arab, Juma bin Seff, 
 sent a goat to-day. They have been riding it roughshod 
 over all the inhabitants, and confess it. 
 
 12th. Marenza sent a present of dura flour and a fowl, 
 and asked for a little butter as a charm. He seems unwilling 
 to give us a guide, though told by Kafimbe to do so.
 
 364: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 . Westward about by south, and crossed a river, 
 Mokobwe, thirty-five yards. Ill, and after going S.W. 
 camped in a deserted village, S.W. traveling five hours. 
 
 14tfA. Guides turned N. W. to take us to a son of Nsama, 
 and so play the usual present into his hands. I objected 
 when I saw their direction, but they said, " The path turns 
 round in front." After going a mile along the bank of the 
 Menomba, which has much water, Susi broke through and 
 ran south, till he got a S. by W. path, which we followed, and 
 came to a village having plenty of food. 
 
 15A. Cross the Kiver Lithabo, thirty yards wide and 
 thigh deep. Keached village of Chipala. 
 
 16th. Off at 6 A. M. across the Chikatula, and in three- 
 quarters of an hour crossed the Lopanza, twelve yards wide 
 and waist deep, being now in flood. The Lolela was before 
 us in half-an-hour, eight yards wide and thigh deep, both 
 streams perennial and embowered in tall umbrageous trees 
 that love wet. We came to quite a group of villages having 
 food, and remain, as we got only driblets in the last two camps. 
 
 At noon we got to the village of Kasiane. The headman, 
 a relative of Nsama, brought me a large present of flour of 
 dura, and I gave him two fathoms of calico. 
 
 The pugnacious spirit is one of the necessities of life. 
 When people have little or none of it, they are subjected to 
 indignity and loss. My own men walk into houses where we 
 pass the nights without asking any leave, and steal cassava 
 without shame. I have to threaten and thrash to keep them 
 honest, while if we are at a village where the natives are a 
 little pugnacious they are as meek as sucking doves. The 
 peace plan involves indignity and wrong. I give little 
 presents to the headmen, and to some extent heal their hurt 
 sensibilities. This is indeed much appreciated, and produces 
 profound hand-clapping. 
 
 Vlth. It looked rainy, but we waited half-an-hour, and 
 then went on an hour and a half, when it set in and forced 
 us to seek shelter in a village. The head of it was very civil, 
 and gave us two baskets of cassava, and one of dura. I gave 
 a small present first.
 
 CHAMA'S WICKED BROTHER. 365 
 
 ISth. Over same flat pollarded forest until we reached the 
 Kalongwese River on the right bank. The donkey sends a 
 foot every now and then through the roof of cavities made 
 apparently by ants, and sinks down 18 inches or more and 
 nearly falls. These covered hollows are right in the paths. 
 
 19A. The Kalongwese is sixty or eighty yards wide and 
 four yards deep, about a mile above the confluence of the 
 Luena. We crossed it in very small canoes, and swamped 
 one twice, but no one was lost. 
 
 20th. Shut in by heavy clouds. Wait to see if it will 
 clear up. Went on at 7.15, drizzling as we came near the 
 Mozumba or chiefs stockade. A son of Chama tried to 
 mislead us by setting out west, but the path being grass- 
 covered I objected, and soon came on to the large clear path. 
 The guide ran off to report to the son, but we kept on our 
 course, and he and the son followed us. We were met by a 
 party, one of whom tried to regale us by vociferous singing 
 and trumpeting on an antelope's horn, but I declined the 
 deafening honor. Had we suffered the misleading we should 
 have come here to-morrow afternoon. 
 
 A wet bed last night, for it was in the canoe that was 
 upset. It was so rainy that there was no drying it. 
 
 21st. Arrived at Chama's. Heavy clouds drifting past, 
 and falling drizzle. Chama'a brother tried to mislead us 
 yesterday, in hopes of making us wander hopelessly and 
 helplessly. Failing in this, from my refusal to follow a 
 grass-covered path, he ran before us to the chief's stockade, 
 and made all the women flee, which they did, leaving their 
 chickens damless. We gave him two handsome cloths, one 
 for himself and one for Chama, and said we wanted food 
 only, and would buy it. They are accustomed to the 
 bullying of half-castes, who take what they like for nothing. 
 They are alarmed at our behavior to-day, so we took quiet 
 possession of the stockade, as the place that they put us in was 
 on the open defenceless plain. Seventeen human skulls orna- 
 ment the stockade. They left their fowls and pigeons. 
 There was no bullying. Our women went in to grind food, 
 and came out without any noise. This flight seems to be
 
 366 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 caused by the foolish brother of the chief, and it is difficult 
 to prevent stealing by my horde. The brother came drunk, 
 and was taking off a large sheaf of arrows, when we scolded 
 and prevented him. 
 
 22m7. Went on mainly south, through much bracken. 
 23rd. Off at 6 A. M, in a mist, and in an hour and a 
 quarter came to three large villages by three rills, called 
 Misangwa, and much sponge; went on to other villages 
 south, and a stockade. 
 
 24^. Very wet and drizzling. Sent back Chama's arrows, 
 as his foolish brother cannot use them against us now ; there 
 are 215 in the bundle. Passed the Lopopussi. The people 
 are not afraid of us here as they were so distressingly else- 
 where : we hope to buy food here. 
 
 25 th, Christmas Day. I thank the good Lord for the 
 good gift of His Son Christ Jesus Our Lord. Slaughtered 
 an ox, and gave a fundo and a half to each of the party. 
 This is our great day, so we rest. It is cold and wet, day 
 and night. The headman is gracious and generous, which 
 is very pleasant compared with awe, awe, and refusing to sell, 
 or stop to speak, or show the way. 
 
 26tfA. Came to the Lof ubu, fifteen yards broad and very 
 deep. We crossed by a bridge, and the donkey swam with 
 men on each side of him. We came to three villages on the 
 other side with many iron furnaces. Wet and drizzling 
 weather made us stop soon. A herd of buffaloes, scared by 
 our party, rushed off and broke the trees in their hurry, 
 otherwise there is no game or marks of game visible. 
 
 27rfA. Leave the villages on the Lofubu. We cross one 
 rivulet running to the Lofubu, and camp by a blacksmith's 
 rill in the jungle. I killed a Naia Hadje snake seven feet 
 long here ; he reared up before me and turned to fight. 
 
 A man, ill and unable to come on, was left all night in the 
 rain without fire. We sent men back to carry him. Wet 
 and cold. We are evidently ascending as we come near 
 the Chambeze. 
 
 Our man Chipangawazi died last night and was
 
 DEATH OF CHIPANGAWAZI. 357 
 
 buried this morning. He was a quiet, good man, his disease 
 began at Kampamba's. New moon last night. 
 
 , or 1st January, 1873. I am wrong two days. 
 
 December. After the burial and planting four 
 branches of Moringa at the corners of the grave we went on 
 southward 3^ hours to a river, the Luonogo, running strongly 
 west and south the Luapula, then after one hour crossed it, 
 twelve yards wide and waist deep. We met a man with 
 four of his kindred stripping off bark to make bark-cloth ; 
 he gives me the above information about the Luongo. 
 
 1st January, 1873. (30th.) Came on at 6 A. M. very 
 cold. The rains have ceased for a time. Arrive at the 
 village of the man who met us yesterday. Camp here. 
 
 2nd. Thursday Wednesday was the 1st, I was two days 
 wrong. 
 
 3rd. The villagers very anxious to take us to the west 
 ,to Chikumbi's, but I refused to follow them, and we made 
 our course to Luongo. Went into the forest south without 
 a path for 1^ hour, then through a flat forest, much fern 
 and no game. We camped in the forest at the Situngula 
 Rivulet. Our last cow died of injuries received in crossing 
 the Lof ubu. People buy it for food, so it is not an entire loss. 
 
 4th. March south one hour to the Lopoposi. Camped at 
 Ketebe's after very heavy rain. 
 
 5th. A woman of our party is very ill ; she will require 
 to be carried to-morrow. 
 
 6th. Ketebe very civil and generous. He sent three men 
 to guide us to his elder brother Chungu. The men drum 
 and sing harshly for him continually. I gave him half-a- 
 pound of powder, and he lay on his back rolling and clap- 
 ping his hands, and all his men lulliloed ; then he turned on 
 his front, and did the same. The men are very timid no 
 wonder, the Arab slaves do as they choose with them. The 
 women burst out through the stockade in terror when my 
 men broke into a chorus as they were pitching my tent. 
 Cold, cloudy, and drizzling. Much cultivation far from the 
 stockades.
 
 368 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 The sponges here are now full and overflowing, from the 
 continuous and heavy rains. Crops of mileza, maize, cassava, 
 dura, tobacco, beans, ground-nuts are growing finely. 
 
 1th. A cold rainy day keeps us in a poor village very 
 unwillingly. 3 P. M. On to the Rivulet Kamalopa. 
 
 8th. Detained by heavy continuous rains in the village 
 Moenje. We are near Lake Bangweolo and in a damp 
 region. Got off in the afternoon in a drizzle. Came on 
 through flat forest as usual S. "W. and S. 
 
 9th. Mosumba of Chungu. After an hour we crossed the 
 rivulet and sponge of Nkulumuna, 100 feet of rivulet and 
 200 yards of flood, besides some 200 yards of sponge full and 
 running off ; we then, after another hour, crossed the large 
 rivulet Lopopozi by a bridge which was 45 feet long, and 
 showed the deep water ; then 100 yards of flood thigh deep, 
 and 200 or 300 yards of sponge. After this we crossed two 
 rills called Linkanda and their sponges, the rills in flood 10 
 or 12 feet broad and thigh deep. After crossing the last we 
 came near the Mosumba, and received a message to build our 
 sheds in the forest, which we did. 
 
 Wth. Mosumba of Chungu. Rest to-day and get an 
 insight into the ford: cold rainy weather. When we pre- 
 pared to visit Chungu, we received a message that he had 
 gone to his plantations to get millet. He then sent for us at 
 1 P. M. to come, but on reaching the stockade we heard a 
 great Kelele, or uproar, and found it being shut from terror. 
 We spoke to the inmates but in vain, so we returned. 
 Chungu says that we should put his head on a pole like 
 Casembe's ! We shall go on without him to-morrow. The 
 terror guns have inspired is extreme. 
 
 llth. Chungu sent a goat and big basket of flour, and 
 excused his fears because guns had routed Casembe and his 
 head was put on a pole ; it was his young men that raised the 
 noise. We remain to buy food, as there is scarcity at Mombo, 
 in front. Cold and rainy weather, never saw the like ; but 
 this is among the sponges of the Nile and near the northern 
 shores of Bangweolo.
 
 THE TERRIFIED CHUNGU. 369 
 
 . A dry day enabled us to move forward an hour to 
 a rivulet and sponge, but by ascending it we came to its head 
 and walked over dry-shod, then one hour to another broad 
 rivulet Pinda, sluggish, and having 100 yards of sponge on 
 each side. This had a stockaded village, and the men in 
 terror shut the gates. Our men climbed over and opened 
 them, but I gave the order to move forward through flat 
 forest till we came to a running rivulet of about twenty feet, 
 but with 100 yards of sponge on each side. The white sand 
 had come out as usual and formed the bottom. Here we 
 entered a village to pass the night. We passed mines of fine 
 black iron ore (" motapo ") ; it is magnetic. 
 
 13A. Storm-stayed by rain and cold at the village on the 
 Rivulet Kalambosi, near the Chambeze. Never was in such 
 a spell of cold rainy weather except in going to Loanda in 
 1853. Sent back for food. 
 
 142A. Went on dry S.E. and then S. two hours to River 
 Mosinga, and marched parallel to it till we came to the con- 
 fluence of Kasie. Mosinga, 25 feet, waist deep, with 150 
 yards of sponge on right bank and about 50 yards on left. 
 There are many plots of cassava, maize, millet, dura, ground- 
 nuts, voandzeia, in the forest, all surrounded with strong 
 high hedges skillfully built, and manured with wood ashes. 
 The villagers are much afraid of us. After 4^- hours we were 
 brought up by the deep rivulet Mpanda, to be crossed to- 
 morrow in canoes. There are many flowers in the forest. 
 
 15tfA. Found that Chungu had let us go astray towards 
 the lake, and into an angle formed by the Mpande and Lopo- 
 pussi, and the lake full of rivulets which are crossed with 
 canoes. Chisupa, a headman on the other side of the Mpanda, 
 sent a present and denounced Chungu for heartlessness. We 
 explained to one man our change of route and went first 
 1ST.E., then E. to the Mosinga, which we forded again at a 
 deep place full of holes and rust-of-iron water, in which we 
 floundered over 300 yards. We crossed a sponge thigh deep 
 before we came to the Mosinga, then on in flat forest to a 
 stockaded village ; the whole march about east for six hours.
 
 370 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 . Away north-east and north to get out of the many 
 rivulets near the lake back to the river Lopopussi, which now 
 looms large, and must be crossed in canoes. We have to 
 wait in a village till these are brought, and have only got If 
 hour nearly north. 
 
 We were treated scurvily by Chungn. He knew that we 
 were near the Chambeze, but hid the knowledge and himself 
 too. It is terror of guns. 
 
 Vlth. We are troubled for want of canoes, but have to 
 treat gently with the owners, otherwise they would all run 
 away, as they have around Chungu's, in the belief that we 
 should return to punish their silly headman. By waiting 
 patiently yesterday, we drew about twenty canoes towards 
 us this morning, but all too small for the donkey, so we had 
 to turn away back north-west to the bridge above Chungu's. 
 If we had tried to swim the donkey across alongside a canoe 
 it would have been terribly strained, as the Lopopussi is here 
 quite two miles wide and full of rushes, except in the main 
 stream. It is all deep, and the country being very level as 
 the rivulets come near to the lake, they become very broad. 
 Crossed two sponges with rivulets in their centre. 
 
 18A. We lost a week by going to Chungu (a worthless 
 terrified headman), and came back to the ford of Lopopussi, 
 which we crossed, only from believing him to be an influen- 
 tial man who would explain the country to us. We came up 
 the Lopopussi three hours yesterday, after spending two 
 hours in going down to examine the canoes. 
 
 19th. After prayers we went on to a fine village, and on 
 from it to the Mononse, which, though only ten feet of deep 
 stream flowing S., had some 400 yards of most fatiguing, 
 plunging, deep sponge, which lay in a mass of dark-colored 
 rushes, that looked as if burnt off : many leeches plagued us. 
 We were now two hours out. We went on two miles to 
 another sponge and village, but went round its head dry-shod, 
 then two hours more to sponge Lovu. Flat forest as usual. 
 
 SOtfA. Tried to observe lunars in vain ; clouded over all, 
 thick and muggy. Came on disappointed and along the
 
 MISLED AND BAFFLED. 371 
 
 Lovu 1 mile. Crossed it by a felled tree lying over it. It 
 is about six feet deep, with 150 yards of sponge. Marched 
 about 2^- hours : very unsatisfactory progress. 
 
 [In answer to a question as to whether Dr. Livingstone 
 could possibly manage to wade so much, Susi says that he 
 was carried across these sponges and the rivulets on the 
 shoulders of Chowpere or Chumah.] 
 
 21st. We went on 2 hours, and were brought up by the 
 River Malalanzi, which is about 15 feet wide, waist deep, and 
 has 300 yards or more of sponge. Guides refused to come as 
 Chitunkue, their headman, did not own them. We started 
 alone : a man came after us and tried to mislead us in vain. 
 
 2%nd. We pushed on through many deserted gardens and 
 villages, the man evidently sent to lead us astray from our 
 S.E. course ; he turned back when he saw that we refused his 
 artifice. Crossed another rivulet, possibly the Lofu, now 
 broad and deep, and then came to another of several deep 
 streams but sponge, not more than fifty feet in all. Here 
 we remained, having traveled in fine drizzling rain all the 
 morning. Population all gone from the war of Chitoka with 
 this Chitunkue. 
 
 No astronomical observations worth naming during De- 
 cember and January ; impossible to take any, owing to 
 clouds and rain. 
 
 It is* trying beyond measure to be baffled by the natives 
 lying and misleading us wherever they can. They fear us 
 very greatly, and with a terror that would gratify an anthro- 
 pologist's heart. Their unfriendliness is made more trying, 
 by our being totally unable to observe for our position. It 
 is either densely clouded, or continually raining day and 
 night. The country is covered with brackens, and rivulets 
 occur at least one every hour of the march. These are now 
 deep, and have a broad selvage of sponge. 
 
 23rd. We have to send back to villages of Chitunkue to 
 
 buy food. It was not reported to me that the country in 
 
 front was depopulated for three days, so I send a day back. 
 
 I don't know where we are, and the people are deceitful in 
 
 u
 
 372 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 their statements; unaccountably so, though we deal fairly 
 and kindly. Rain, rain, rain as if it never tired on this 
 watershed. The showers show little in the gauge, but keep 
 everything and every place wet and sloppy. 
 
 Our people return with a wretched present from Chitun- 
 kue ; bad flour and a fowl, evidently meant to be rejected. 
 He sent also an exorbitant demand for gunpowder, and pay- 
 ment of guides. I refused his present, and must plod on 
 without guides, and this is very difficult from the numerous 
 streams. 
 
 24tfA. Went on E. and N.E. to avoid the deep part of a 
 large river, which requires two canoes, but the men sent by 
 the chief would certainly hide them. Went If hour's journey 
 to a large stream through drizzling rain, at least 300 yards of 
 deep water, amongst sedges and sponges of 100 yards. One 
 part was neck deep for fifty yards, and the water cold. We 
 plunged in elephants' footprints 1-J hour, then came on one 
 hour to a small rivulet ten feet broad, but waist deep, bridge 
 covered and broken down. Carrying me across one of the 
 broad deep sedgy rivers is really a very difficult task. One 
 we crossed was at least 2000 feet broad, or more than 600 
 yards. The first part, the main stream, came up to Susi's 
 mouth, and wetted my seat and legs. One held up my pistol 
 behind, then one after another took a turn, and when he 
 sank into a deep elephant's foot-print, he required two to lift 
 him, so as to gain a footing on the level, which was over 
 waist deep. Others went on, and bent down the grass, to 
 insure some footing on the side of the elephants' path. 
 
 Every ten or twelve paces brought us to a clear stream, 
 flowing fast in its own channel, while over all a strong cur- 
 rent came bodily through all the rushes and aquatic plants. 
 Susi had the first spell, then Farijala, then a tall, stout Arab- 
 looking man, then Amoda, then Chanda, then Wade Sale, 
 and each time I was lifted off bodily, and put on another 
 pair of stout willing shoulders, and fifty yards put them out 
 of breath : no wonder ! It was sore on the women folk of 
 our party. It took us full an hour and a half for all to cross
 
 APPROACH TO LAKE BANGWEOLO. 375 
 
 over, and several came over turn to help me and their friends. 
 The water was cold, and so was the wind, but no leeches 
 plagued us. We had to hasten on the building of sheds 
 after crossing the second rivulet, as rain threatened us. 
 After 4 p. M. it came on. a pouring cold rain, when we were 
 all under cover. We are anxious about food. The lake is 
 near, but we are not sure of provisions, as there have been 
 changes of population. Our progress is distressingly slow. 
 Wet, wet, wet ; sloppy weather, truly, and no observations, 
 except that the land near the lake being very level, the rivers 
 spread out into broad friths and sponges. The streams are so 
 numerous that there has been a scarcity of names. Here we 
 have Loou and Luena. We had two Loous before, and 
 another Luena. 
 
 25th. Kept in by rain. A man from ITnyanyembe joined 
 us this morning. He says that he was left sick. Rivulets 
 and sponges again, and through flat forest, where, as usual, 
 we can see the slope of the land by the leaves being washed 
 into heaps in the direction which the water in the paths 
 wished to take. One and a half hour more, and then to the 
 River Loou, a large stream with bridge destroyed. Sent to 
 make repairs before we go over it, and then passed. The 
 river is deep, and flows fast to the S. W., having about 200 
 yards of safe flood flowing in long grass clear water. The 
 men built their huts, and had their camp ready by 3 p. M. 
 A good day's work, not hindered by rain. The country all 
 depopulated, BO we can buy nothing. Elephants and ante- 
 lopes have been here lately. 
 
 26A. I arranged to go to our next river Luena, and 
 ascend it till we found it small enough for crossing, as it has 
 much " tinga-tinga," or yielding spongy soil; but another 
 plan was formed by night, and we were requested to go down 
 the Loou. Not wishing to appear overbearing, I consented 
 until we were, after two hours' southing, brought up by 
 several miles of tinga-tinga. The people in a fishing village 
 ran away from us, and we had to wait for some sick ones. 
 The women are collecting mushrooms. A man came near us,
 
 376 . LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 but positively refused to guide us to Matipa, or anywhere else. 
 
 The sick people compelled us to make an early halt. 
 
 %lth. On again through streams, over sponges and rivulets 
 thigh deep. There are marks of gnu and buffalo. I lose 
 much blood, but it is a safety-valve for me, and I have no 
 fever or other ailments. 
 
 28A. A dreary wet morning, and no food that we know 
 of near. It is drop, drop, drop, and drizzling from the 
 north-west. "We killed our last calf but one last night, to 
 give each a mouthful. At 9.30 we were allowed by the rain 
 to leave our camp, and march S. E. for two hours to a strong 
 deep rivulet ten feet broad only, but waist deep, and 150 
 yards of flood all deep too. Sponge about forty yards in all, 
 and running fast out. Camped by a broad prairie or Bouga. 
 
 29^A. No rain in the night, for a wonder. "We tramped 
 1 \ hour to a broad sponge, having at least 300 yards of flood, 
 and clear water flowing S. "W., but no usual stream. All was 
 stream flowing through the rushes, knee and thigh deep. 
 On still the same, repeated again and again, till we came to 
 broad branching sponges, at which I resolved to send out 
 scouts S., S. E., and S. "W. The music of the singing birds, 
 the music of the turtle doves, the screaming of the frankolin 
 proclaim man to be near. 
 
 30^. Remain waiting for the scouts. Manuasera returned 
 at dark, having gone about eight hours south, and seen the 
 lake and two islets. Smoke now appeared in the distance, so 
 -he turned, and the rest went on to buy food where the smoke 
 was. Wet evening.
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 ENTANGLED IN THE MAKSHES OF BANGWEOLO. 
 
 TIEBRUARY IST, 1873. Waiting for the scouts. They 
 -L return unsuccessful forced to do so by hunger. They 
 saw a very large river flowing into the lake, but did not 
 come across a single soul. Killed our last calf, and turn 
 back for four hard days' travel to Chitunkue's. I send men 
 on before us to bring food back toward us. 
 
 2nd. March smartly back to our camp of 28th ult. The 
 people bear their hunger well. They collect mushrooms and 
 plants, and often get lost in this flat, featureless country. 
 
 3rd. Return march to our bridge on the Lofu, five hours. 
 In going we went astray, and took six hours to do the work 
 of five. On the Luena. 
 
 4th. Return to camp on the rivulet with much MetTionica 
 gloriosa on its banks. Our camp being on its left bank of 
 26th. It took long to cross the next river, probably the 
 Kwale, though the elephants' footprints are all filled up now. 
 Camp among deserted gardens, which afford a welcome 
 supply of cassava and sweet potatoes. The men who were 
 sent on before us slept here last night, and have deceived us 
 by going more slowly without loads than we who are loaded. 
 
 5th. Arrived at Chitunkue's, crossing two broad deep 
 brooks, and on to the Malalenzi, now swollen, having at least 
 200 yards of flood and more than 300 yards of sponge. 
 Saluted by a drizzling shower. We are now at Chitunkue's 
 mercy. 
 
 We find the chief more civil than we- expected. He said
 
 378 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 each chief had his own land and his own peculiarities. He 
 was not responsible for others. We were told that we had 
 been near to Matipa and other chiefs: he would give us 
 guides if we gave him a cloth and some powder. 
 
 We returned over these forty-one miles in fifteen hours, 
 through much deep water. Our scouts played us false both 
 in time and beads: the headman punished them. I got 
 lunars, for a wonder. Visited Chitunkubwe, as his name 
 properly is. He is a fine jolly-looking man, of a European 
 cast of countenance, and very sensible and friendly. I gave 
 him two cloths, for which he seemed thankful, and promised 
 good guides to Matipa's. He showed me two of Matipa's 
 men who had heard us firing guns to attract one of our men 
 who had strayed ; these men followed us. It seems we had 
 been close to human habitations, but did not know it. "We 
 have lost half a month by this wandering, bnt it was all 
 owing to the unfriendliness of some and the fears of all. I 
 begged for a more northerly path, where the water is low. 
 It is impossible to describe the amount of water near the lake. 
 Rivulets without .number. They are so deep as to damp all 
 ardor. I passed a very large striped spider in going to visit 
 Chitunkubwe. A man killed it, and all the natives said that 
 it was most dangerous. 
 
 6th. Chitunkubwe gave a small goat and a large basket 
 of flour as a return present. 
 
 Itk. This chief showed his leanings by demanding pre- 
 payment for his guides. This being a preparatory step to 
 their desertion, I resisted, and sent men to demand what he 
 meant by his words ; he denied all, and said that his people 
 lied, not he. We take this for what it is worth. He gives 
 two guides to-morrow morning, and visits us this afternoon. 
 
 8th. The chief dawdles, although he promised great 
 things yesterday. He places the blame on his people, who 
 did not prepare food on account of the rain. Time is of no 
 value to them. We have to remain over to-day. It is most 
 trying to have to wait on frivolous pretences. I have 
 endured such .vexatious delays. The guides came at last
 
 * REACHES LAKE BANGWEOLO. 379 
 
 with quantities of food, which they intend to bargain with 
 my people on the way. 
 
 9th. Slept in a most unwholesome, ruined village. Hank 
 vegetation had run over all, and the soil smelled offensively. 
 Crossed a sponge, then a rivulet, and sponge running into the 
 Miwale River, then hy a rocky passage we crossed the Mofiri, 
 or great tinga-tinga, a water running strongly waist and 
 breast deep, above thirty feet broad here. 
 
 lO^A. Back again to our old camp on the Lovu or Lofu 
 by the bridge. "We left in a drizzle, which continued from 
 4 A. M. to 1 P.M. We were three hours in it, and all wetted, 
 just on reaching camp by 200 yards, of flood mid-deep. 
 
 Ilth. Our guides took us across country, where we saw 
 tracks of buffaloes, and in a meadow, the head of a sponge, 
 we saw a herd of hartebeests. A drizzly night was followed 
 by a morning of cold wet fog, but in three hours we reached 
 our old camp ; it took us six hours to do this distance before, 
 and five on our return. 
 
 ~L2th. We crossed the Kasoso ; sponges everywhere. 
 
 13th. In four hours we came within sight of the Luena 
 and lake, and saw plenty of elephants and other game, but 
 very shy. The forest trees are larger. The guides are more 
 at a loss than we are, as they always go in canoes in the 
 flat rivers and rivulets. Went E., then S. E. round to S. 
 
 14th. Public punishment to Chirango for stealing beads, 
 fifteen cuts ; diminished his load to 40 Ibs., giving him blue 
 and white beads to be strung. The water stands so high in 
 the paths that I cannot walk dry-shod, and I found in the 
 large bougas or prairies in front, that it lay knee deep ; so I 
 Bent on two men to go to the first villages of Matipa for 
 large canoes to navigate the lake, or give us a guide to go 
 east to the Chambeze, to go round on foot. It was Halima 
 who informed on Chirango, as he offered her beads for a 
 cloth of a kind which she knew had not hitherto been taken 
 out of the baggage. This was so far faithful in her, but she 
 has an outrageous tongue. I remain because of an excessive 
 hemorrhagic discharge.
 
 380 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 If the good Lord gives me favor, and permits me to finish 
 my work, I shall thank and bless Him, though it has cost 
 me untold toil, pain, and travel ; this trip has made my hair 
 all gray. 
 
 15th. Sunday. Service. Killed our last goat while wait- 
 ing for messengers to return from Matipa's. Evening : the 
 messenger came back, having been foiled by deep tinga- 
 tinga and bouga. He fired his gun three times, but no 
 answer came, so as he had slept one night away he turned, 
 but found some men hunting, whom he brought with him. 
 They say that Matipa is on Chirube, islet, a good man too. 
 
 16tfA. Sent men by the hunter's canoe to Chirube, with a 
 request to Matipa to convey us west if he has canoes, but, if 
 not to tell us truly, and we will go east and cross the 
 Chambeze where it is small. Chitunkubwe's men ran away, 
 refusing to wait till we had communicated with Matipa. 
 Here the water stands underground about eighteen inches 
 from the surface. The guides played us false, and this is 
 why they escaped. 
 
 Vlth. The men will return to-morrow, but they have to 
 go all the way out to the islet of Chirube to Matipa's. 
 
 Suffered a furious attack at midnight from the red Sirafu 
 or Driver ants. Our cook fled first at their onset. I lighted 
 a candle, and remembering Dr. Yan der Kemp's idea that no 
 animal will attack man unprovoked, I lay still. The first 
 came on my foot quietly, then some began to bite between 
 the toes, then the larger ones swarmed over the foot and bit 
 furiously, and made the blood start out. I then went out of 
 the tent, and my whole person was instantly covered as close 
 as small-pox (not confluent) on a patient. Grass fires were 
 lighted, and my men picked some oft my limbs and tried to 
 save me. After battling for an hour or two they took me 
 into a hut not yet invaded, and I rested till they came, the 
 pests, and routed me out there too ! Then came on a steady 
 pour of rain, which held on till noon, as if trying to make us 
 miserable. At 9 A. M. I got back into my tent. 
 
 The large Sirafu have mandibles curved like reaping- 
 eickles, and very sharp as fine at the point as the finest
 
 MIDXIGHT PROWLERS. 381 
 
 needle or a bee's sting. Their office is to remove all animal 
 refuse, cockroaches, etc., and they took all my fat. Their 
 appearance sets every cockroach in a flurry, and all ants, 
 white and black, get into a panic. On man they insert the 
 sharp curved mandibles, and then with six legs push their 
 bodies round so as to force the points by lever power. They 
 collect in masses in their runs and stand with mandibles 
 extended, as if defying attack. The large ones stand thus at 
 bay whilst the youngsters hollow out a run half an inch wide, 
 and about an inch deep. They remained with us till late in 
 the afternoon, and we put hot ashes on the defiant hordes. 
 They retire to enjoy the fruits of their raid, and come out 
 fresh another day. 
 
 18A. We wait hungry and cold for the return of the men 
 who have gone to Matipa, and hope the good Lord will grant 
 us influence with this man. 
 
 Our men have returned to-day, having obeyed the native 
 who told them to sleep instead of going to Matipa. They 
 bought food, and then believed that the islet Chirube was 
 too far off, and returned with a most lame story. We shall 
 make the best of it by going !N". W., to be near the islets and 
 buy food, till we can communicate with Matipa. If he fails 
 us by fair means, we must seize canoes and go by force. The 
 men say fear of me makes them act very cowardly. I have 
 gone amongst the whole population kindly and fairly, but I 
 fear I must now act rigidly, for when they hear that we have 
 submitted to injustice, they at once conclude that we are 
 fair game for all, and they go to lengths in dealing falsely 
 that they would never otherwise attempt. It is, I can 
 declare, not my nature, nor has it been my practice, to go as 
 if " my back were up." 
 
 19tfA. A cold wet morning keeps us in this uncomfortable 
 spot. When it clears up we go to an old stockade, to be near 
 an islet to buy food. The people, knowing our need, are 
 extortionate. We went on at 9 A. M. over an extensive water- 
 covered plain. ' I was carried three miles to a canoe, and then 
 in it we went westward, in branches of the Luena, very deep 
 and flowing W. for three hours. I was carried three miles
 
 382 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 to a canoe, and we were then near enough to hear the 
 Bangweolo bellowing. The water on the plain is four, five, 
 and seven feet deep. There are rushes, ferns, papyrus, and 
 two lotuses, in abundance. Many dark gray caterpillars 
 clung to the grass and were knocked off as we paddled or 
 poled. Camped in an old village of Matipa's, where, in the 
 west, we see the Luena enter Lake Bangweolo ; but all is flat 
 prairie or buga, filled with fast-flowing water, save a few 
 islets covered with palms and trees. Rain continued sprink- 
 ling us from the N. W. all the morning. Elephants had run 
 riot over the ruins, eating a species of grass now in seed. It 
 resembles millet, and the donkey is fond of it. I have only 
 seen this and one other species of grass in seed eaten by the 
 African elephant. Trees, bulbs, and fruits are his dainties, 
 although ants, whose hills he overturns, are relished. A 
 large party in canoes came with food as soon as we reached 
 our new quarters : they had heard that we were in search of 
 Matipa. All are eager for calico, though they have only raw 
 cassava to offer. They are clothed in bark-cloth and skins. 
 Without canoes no movement can be made in any direction, 
 for it is water everywhere, water above and water below. 
 
 20^A. I sent a request to a friendly man to give me men, 
 and a large canoe to go myself to Matipa ; he says that he 
 will let me know to-day if he can. Heavy rain by night and 
 drizzling by day. No definite answer yet, but we are getting 
 food, and Matipa will soon hear of us as he did when we 
 came and returned back for food. I engaged another man 
 to send a canoe to Matipa, and I showed him his payment, 
 but retain it here till he comes back. 
 
 21st. The men engaged refuse to go to Matipa's, they 
 have no honor. It is so wet we can do nothing. 
 
 22m. A wet morning. I was ill all yesterday, but 
 escape fever by hemorrhage. A heavy mantle of N.W. 
 clouds came floating over us daily. No astronomical obser- 
 vation can possibly be taken. I was never in such misty 
 cloudy weather in Africa. A man turned up at 9 A.M. to 
 carry our message to Matipa ; Susi and Chumah went with
 
 EMBARK IN CANOES. 383 
 
 him. The good Lord go with them, and lend me influence 
 and grant me help. 
 
 23rd. Sunday. Service. Rainy. 
 
 24:th. Tried hard for a lunar, but the moon was lost in 
 the glare of the sun. 
 
 25th. For a wonder it did not rain till 4 P.M. The people 
 bring food, but hold out for cloth, which is inconvenient. 
 
 26th. Susi returned this morning with good news from 
 Matipa, who declares his willingness to carry us to Kabende 
 for the five bundles of brass wire I offered. It is not on 
 Chirube, but amid the swamps of the mainland on the lake's 
 north side. Immense swampy plains all around except at 
 Kabende. Matipa is at variance with his brothers on the 
 subject of the lordship of the lands and the produce of the 
 elephants, which are very numerous. I am devoutly thank- 
 ful to the Giver of all for favoring me so far, and hope that 
 He may continue His kind aid. 
 
 21th. Waiting for other canoes to be sent by Matipa. 
 
 28th. Matipa's men not having come, it is said they are 
 employed bringing the carcass of an elephant to him. I 
 propose to go near to him to-morrow, some in canoes and 
 some on foot. The good Lord help me. 
 
 1st March, 1873. Embarked women and goods in canoes, 
 and went three hours S.E. to Bangweolo. Stopped on an 
 island where people were drying fish over fires. Heavy rain 
 wetted us all as we came near the islet, the drops were as 
 large as half-crowns by the marks they made. We went 
 over flooded prairie four feet deep, and covered with rushes, 
 and two varieties of lotus or sacred lily ; both are eaten, and 
 so are papyrus. The buffaloes are at a loss in the water. 
 Three canoes are behind. The men are great cowards. I 
 took possession of all the paddles and punting poles, as the 
 men showed an inclination to move off from our islet. The 
 water in the country is prodigiously large : plains extend- 
 ing further than the eye can reach have four or five feet of 
 clear water, and the lake and adjacent lands for twenty or 
 thirty miles are level. We are on a miserable dirty fishy
 
 384: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 island called Motovinza ; all are damp. We are surrounded 
 by scores of miles of rushes, an open sward, and many lotus 
 plants, but no mosquitoes. 
 
 2nd. It took us 7-J- hours' punting to bring us to an 
 island, and then the miserable weather rained constantly on 
 our landing into the Boma (stockade), which is well peopled. 
 The prairie is ten hours long, or about thirty miles by 
 punting. Matipa is on an island too, with four bomas on it.* 
 
 3rd. Matipa paid off the men who brought us here. He 
 says that five Sangos or coils (which brought us here) will 
 do to take us to Kabende, and I sincerely hope that they 
 will. His canoes are off, bringing the meat of an elephant. 
 There are many dogs in the village, which they use in hunt- 
 ing to bring elephants to bay. I visited Matipa at noon. 
 He is an old man, slow of tongue, and self-possessed ; he 
 recommended our crossing to the south bank of the lake to 
 his brother, who has plenty of cattle, and to go along that 
 side where there are few rivers and plenty to eat. I am 
 rather in a difficulty, as I fear I must give the five coils for 
 a much shorter task ; but it is best not to appear unfair, 
 although I will be the loser. He sent a man to catch a 
 Sampa for me, it is the largest fish in the lake, and he 
 promised to have men ready to take my men over to-morrow. 
 Matipa never heard from any of the elders of his people that 
 any of his forefathers ever saw a European. 
 
 4th. Sent canoes off to bring our men over to the island 
 of Matipa. They brought ten, but the donkey could not 
 come as far through the " tinga-tinga " as they, so they took 
 it back for fear that it should perish. I spoke to Matipa 
 this morning to send more canoes, and he consented. We 
 move outside, as the town swarms with mice, and is very 
 closely built and disagreeable. 
 
 6th. Building a camp outside the town for quiet and 
 cleanliness, and no mice to run over us at night. At 3 P.M. 
 we moved up to the highest part of the island. 
 
 * These islets were in reality slight eminences standing above water on the 
 flooded plains which border on Lake Bangweolo.
 
 THE DONKEY AS A SAILOR. 335 
 
 1th. "We expect our men to-day. I tremble for the 
 donkey ! Camp sweet and clean, but it, too, has mosquitoes 
 from which a curtain protects me completely a great luxury, 
 but unknown to the Arabs, to whom I have spoken about it. 
 Abed was overjoyed by one I made for him ; others are used 
 to their bites, as was the man who said that he would get 
 used to a nail through the heel of his shoe. The men came 
 at 3 P.M. but eight had to remain, the canoes being too small. 
 The donkey had to be tied down, as he rolled about on his 
 legs and would have forced his way out. He bit Mabruki 
 Speke's lame hand, and came in stiff from lying tied all day. 
 We had him shampooed all over, but he could not eat dura 
 he feels sore. Susi did well under the circumstances, and 
 we had plenty of flour ready for all. 
 
 8th. I press Matipa to get a fleet of canoes equal to our 
 number, but he complains of their being stolen by rebel 
 subjects. He tells me his brother Kabinga would have been 
 here some days ago but for haying lost a son, who was killed 
 by an elephant : he is mourning for him but will come soon. 
 Kabinga is on the other side of the Chambeze. A party of 
 male and female drummers and dancers is sure to turn up at 
 every village ; the first here had a leader that used such 
 violent antics perspiration ran off" his whole frame. I gave 
 a few strings of beads, and the performance is repeated 
 to-day by another lot, but I rebel and allow them to dance 
 unheeded. We got a sheep for a wonder for a doti ; fowls 
 and fish alone could be bought ; but Kabinga has plenty of 
 cattle. 
 
 The eight men came from Motovinza this afternoon, and 
 now all our party is united. 
 
 llth. Matipa says, " Wait ; Kabinga is crossing, and he 
 has canoes." Time is no value to him. His wife is making 
 him pombe, and will drown all his cares ; but mine increase 
 and plague me. Matipa and his wife each sent me a huge 
 calabash of pombe ; I wanted only a little to make bread with. 
 
 Better news comes : the son of Kabinga is to be here to- 
 night, and we shall concoct plans together.
 
 386 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 The news -was false ; no one came from Kabinga. 
 
 13th. I went to Matipa, and proposed to begin the em- 
 barkation of my men at once, as they are many, and the 
 canoes are only sufficient to take a few at a time. He has 
 sent off a big canoe to reap his millet ; when it returns he 
 will send us over to see for ourselves where we can go. 
 
 14^. Rains have ceased for a few days. Went down to 
 Matipa and tried to take his likeness for the sake of the 
 curious hat he wears. 
 
 15A. Finish my dispatch so far. 
 
 16th. /Sunday. Service. I spoke sharply to Matipa for his 
 duplicity. He promises everything and does nothing: he 
 has in fact no power over his people. Matipa says that a 
 large canoe will come to-morrow, and next day men will go 
 to Kabinga to reconnoitre. There may be a hitch there 
 which we did not take into account ; Kabinga's son, killed by 
 an elephant, may have raised complications : blame may be 
 attached to Matipa, and in their dark minds it may appear all 
 important to settle the affair before having communication 
 with him. Ill all day with my old complaint. 
 
 Vlth. The delay is most trying. So many detentions 
 have occurred they ought to have made me of a patient spirit. 
 
 As I thought, Matipa told us to-day that it is reported he 
 has some Arabs with him who will attack all the Lake 
 people forthwith, and he is anxious that we shall go over to 
 show them that we are peaceful. 
 
 ~LStk. Sent off men to reconnoitre at Kabinga's and to 
 make a camp there. Rain began again after nine days' dry 
 weather, N. "W. wind. Matipa is acting the villain, and my 
 men are afraid of him : they are all cowards, and say that 
 they are afraid of me, but this is only an excuse for their 
 cowardice. 
 
 19A. Thanks to the Almighty Preserver of men for 
 sparing me thus far on the journey of life. Can I hope for 
 ultimate success ? So many obstacles have arisen. Let not 
 Satan prevail over me, Oh ! my good Lord Jesus. * 
 
 * This was written on his last birthday.
 
 MATIPA AND IIIS WIFE. 
 
 PR. LIVINGSTONES MOSQUITO CURTAIN.
 
 A WARLIKE DEMONSTRATION. 389 
 
 8 A. M. Got about twenty people off to canoes. Matipa 
 not friendly. They go over to Kabinga on S. "W. side of the 
 Chambeze, and thence we go overland. 9 A. M. Men came 
 back and reported Matipa false again ; only one canoe had 
 come. I made a demonstration by taking quiet possession 
 of his village and house ; fired a pistol through the roof and 
 called my men, ten being left to guard the camp ; Matipa 
 fled to another village. The people sent off at once and 
 brought three canoes, so at 11 A. M. my men embarked 
 quietly. They go across the Chambeze and build a camp 
 on its left bank. All Kabinga's cattle are kept on an island 
 called Kalilo, near the mouth of the Chambeze, and are 
 perfectly wild : they are driven into the water like buffaloes, 
 and pursued when one is wanted for meat. 
 
 20th. Cold N. W. weather, but the rainfall is small, as the 
 S. E. stratum comes down below the N. "W. by day. Matipa 
 Bent two large baskets of flour (cassava), a sheep, and a cock. 
 He hoped that we should remain with him till the water of 
 the over-flood dried, and help him to fight his enemies ; but 
 I explained our delays, and our desire to complete our work. 
 
 21st. Yery heavy N. W. rain and thunder by night, and 
 by morning. I gave Matipa a coil of thick brass wire, and his 
 wife a string of large neck beads, and explained my hurry to 
 be off. He is now all fair, and promises largely : he has 
 been much frightened by our warlike demonstration. I am 
 glad I had to do nothing but make a show of force. 
 
 2,2nd. Snsi not returned from Kabinga. I hope that he is 
 getting canoes, and men also, to transport us all at one voy- 
 age. It is flood as far as the eye can reach ; flood four and 
 six feet deep, and more, with three species of rushes, two 
 kinds of lotus, or sacred lily, papyrus, arum, etc. One does 
 not know where land ends, and lake begins. 
 
 23rd. Men returned at noon. Kabinga is mourning for 
 his son killed by an elephant, and keeps in seclusion. The 
 camp is formed on the left bank of the Chambeze. 
 
 24:th. The people took the canoes away, but in fear sent 
 for them. I got four, and started with all our goods, first
 
 390 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 giving a present that no blame should follow me. "We punted 
 six hours to a little islet without a tree, and no sooner did we 
 land than a pitiless pelting rain came on. "We turned up a 
 canoe to get shelter. "We shall reach the Chambeze to- 
 morrow. The wind tore the tent out of our hands, and 
 damaged it too ; the loads are all soaked, and with the cold it 
 is bitterly uncomfortable. A man put my bed into the bilge, 
 and never said " Bale out," so I was safe for a wet night, but 
 it turned out better than I expected. No grass, but we made 
 a bed of the loads, and a blanket fortunately put into a bag. 
 
 25A. Nothing earthly will make me give up my work 
 in despair. I encourage myself in the Lord my God, and go 
 forward. 
 
 "We got off from our miserably small islet of ten yards at 
 7 A. M., a grassy sea on all sides, with a few islets in the far 
 distance. Four varieties of rushes around us, triangular and 
 fluted, rise from eighteen inches to two feet above the water. 
 The caterpillars seem to eat each other, and a web is made 
 round others; the numerous spiders may have been the 
 workmen of the nest. The wind on the rushes makes a 
 sound like the waves of the sea. The flood extends out in 
 slightly depressed arms of the lake for twenty or thirty miles, 
 and far too broad to be seen across ; fish abound, and ant- 
 hills alone lift up their heads ; they have trees on them. 
 
 After another six hours' punting, over the same wearisome 
 prairie or Bouga, we heard the merry voices of children. It 
 was a large village, on a flat, which seems flooded at times, 
 but much cassava is planted on mounds, made to protect the 
 plants from the water, which stood in places in the village, 
 but we got a dry spot for the tent. The people offered us 
 huts. "We had as usual a smart shower on the way to 
 Kasenga, where we slept. 
 
 262A. "We started at T.30, and got into a large stream out 
 of the Chambeze, called Mabziwa. One canoe sank in it, and 
 we lost a slave girl of Amoda. Fished up three boxes, and 
 two guns, but the boxes being full of cartridges were much 
 injured ; we lost the donkey's saddle too. After this mishap
 
 CANOE DISASTER. ' 
 
 -\ 
 
 we crossed the Lubanseusi, near its confluence with the Cham- 
 beze, 300 yards wide and three fathoms deep, and a slow 
 current. We crossed the Chambeze. It is about 400 yards 
 wide, with a quick clear current of two knots, and three 
 fathoms deep, like the Lubanseuse ; but that was slow in 
 current, but clear also. There is one great lock after another, 
 with thick mats of hedges, formed of aquatic plants between. 
 The volume of water is enormous. We punted five hours, 
 and then camped. 
 
 27tfA. I sent canoes and men back to Matipa's to bring all 
 the men that remained, telling them to ship them at once on 
 arriving, and not to make any talk about it. Kabinga keeps 
 his distance from us, and food is scarce ; at noon he sent a 
 man to salute me in his name. 
 
 28tfA. Making a pad for a donkey, to serve instead of a 
 saddle. Kabinga attempts to sell a sheep at an exorbitant 
 price, and says that he is weeping over his dead child. 
 
 29rfA. I bought a sheep for 100 strings of beads. I wished 
 to begin the exchange by being generous, and told his mes- 
 senger so ; then a small quantity of maize was brought, and 
 I grumbled at the meanness of the present : there is no use 
 in being bashful, as they are not ashamed to grumble too. 
 
 30th. Sunday. A lion roars mightily. The fish-hawk 
 utters, his weird voice in the morning, as if he lifted up to a 
 friend at a great distance, in a sort of falsetto key. 
 
 5 P. M. Men returned, but the large canoe having been 
 broken by the donkey, we have to go back and pay for it, 
 and take away about twenty men now left. Matipa kept all 
 the payment from his own people, and so left us in the lurch ; 
 thus another five days is lost. 
 
 31st. I sent the men back to Matipa's for all our party. I 
 give two dotis to repair the canoe. Islanders are always 
 troublesome, from a sense of security in their fastnesses. 
 Made stirrups of thick brass wire four-fold ; they promise to 
 do well. Sent Kabinga a cloth, and a message, but he is 
 evidently a niggard, like Matipa : we must take him as we 
 find him, there is no use in growling. Seven of our men 
 
 T
 
 392 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 returned, having got a canoe from one of Matipa's men. 
 Kabinga, it seems, was pleased with the cloth, and says that 
 he will ask for maize from his people, and buy it for me ; he 
 has rice growing. He will send a canoe to carry me over the 
 next river. 
 
 3rd April, 1873. Yery heavy rain last night. Six inches 
 fell in a short time. The men at last have come from 
 Matipa's. 
 
 4:th. Sent over to Kabinga to buy a cow, and got a fat 
 one for 2 dotis, to give the party a feast ere we start. The 
 kambari fish of the Chambeze is three feet in length. 
 
 5th. March from Kabinga's on the Chambeze, our luggage 
 in canoes, and men on land. We punted on flood six feet 
 deep, with many ant-hills all about, covered with trees. 
 Course S.S.E. for five miles, across the Kiver Lobingela, 
 sluggish, and about 300 yards wide. 
 
 6th. Leave in the same way, but men were sent from 
 Kabinga to steal the canoes, which we paid his brother 
 Mateysa handsomely for. A stupid drummer, beating the 
 alarm in the distance, called us inland ; we found the main 
 body of our people had gone on, and so by this, our party 
 got separated,* and we pulled and punted six or seven hours 
 S.W. in great difficulty, as the fishermen we saw refused to 
 show us where the deep water lay. The whole country S. 
 of the lake was covered with water, thickly dotted over with 
 lotus leaves and rushes. It has a greenish appearance, and 
 it might be well on a map to show the spaces annually 
 flooded by a broad wavy band, twenty, thirty, and even 
 forty miles out from the permanent banks of the lake : it 
 might be colored light green. The broad estuaries fifty or 
 more miles, into which the rivers form themselves, might be 
 colored blue, but it is quite impossible at present to tell 
 where land ends, and lake begins; it is all water, water 
 everywhere, which seems to be kept from flowing quickly 
 off by the narrow bed of the Luapula, which has perpendicular 
 
 * Dr. Livingstone's object was to keep the land party marching parallel to him 
 whilst he kept nearer to the lake in a canoe.
 
 DESPERATE WORK DISGUSTED LION. 393 
 
 banks, worn deep down in new red sandstone. It is the 
 Nile apparently enacting its inundations, even at its sources. 
 The amount of water spread out over the country constantly 
 excites my wonder ; it is prodigious. Many of the ant-hills 
 are cultivated and covered with dura, pumpkins, beans, maize, 
 but the waters yield food plenteously in fish and lotus roots. 
 A species of wild rice grows, but the people neither need it 
 nor know it. A party of fishermen fled from us, but by 
 coaxing we got them to show us deep water. They then 
 showed us an islet, about thirty yards square, without wood, 
 and desired us to sleep there. We went on, and then they 
 decamped. 
 
 Pitiless pelting showers wetted everything ; but near sun- 
 set we saw two fishermen paddling quickly off from an ant- 
 hill, where we found a hut, plenty of fish, and some firewood. 
 There we spent the night, and watched by turns, lest thieves 
 should come and haul away our canoes and goods. Heavy 
 rain. One canoe sank, wetting everything in her. The 
 leaks in her had been stopped with clay, and a man sleeping 
 near the stern had displaced this frail calking. "We did not 
 touch the fish, and I cannot conjecture who has inspired fear 
 in all the inhabitants. 
 
 1th. Went on S. W., and saw two men, who guided us 
 to the River Muanakazi, which forms a connecting link 
 between the River Lotingila and the Lolotikila, about the 
 southern borders of the flood. Men were hunting, and we 
 passed near large herds of antelopes, which made a rushing, 
 plunging sound as they ran and sprang away among the 
 waters. A lion had wandered into this world of water and 
 ant-hills, and roared night and morning, as if very much 
 disgusted : we could sympathize with him ! Near to the 
 Muanakazi, at a broad bank in shallow water near the river, 
 we had to unload and haul. Our guides left us, well pleased 
 with the payment we had given them. The natives beating 
 a drum on our east made us believe them to be our party, 
 and some thought that they heard two shots. This misled 
 us, and we went towards the sound through papyrus, tall
 
 394 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 rushes, arums, and grass, till tired out, and took refuge on 
 an ant-hill for the night. Lion roaring. "We were lost in 
 stiff grassy prairies, from three to four feet deep in water, 
 for five hours. "We fired a gun in the stillness of the night, 
 but received no answer ; so on the 8th we sent a small canoe 
 at daybreak to ask for information and guides from the 
 village where the drums had been beaten. Two men came, 
 and they thought likewise that our party was south-east ; but 
 in that direction the water was about fifteen inches in spots 
 and three feet in others, which caused constant dragging of the 
 large canoe all day, and at last we unloaded at another 
 branch of the Muanakazi with a village of friendly people. 
 We slept there. 
 
 All hands at the large canoe could move her only a few 
 feet. Putting all their strength to her, she stopped at every 
 haul with a jerk, as if in a bank of adhesive plaster. I 
 measured the crown of a papyrus plant or palm ; it was three 
 feet across horizontally, its stalk eight feet in height. Hun- 
 dreds of a large dark-gray hairy caterpillar have nearly 
 cleared off the rushes in spots, and now live on each other. 
 They can make only the smallest progress by swimming or 
 rather wriggling in the water : their motion is that of a 
 watch-spring thrown down, dilating and contracting. 
 
 $th. After two hours' threading the very winding, deep 
 channel of this southern branch of the Muanakazi, we came 
 to where our land party had crossed it and gone on to 
 Gandochite, a chief on the Lolotikila. My men were all 
 done up, so I hired a man to call some of his friends to take 
 the loads ; but he was stopped by his relations in the way, 
 saying, " You ought to have one of the traveler's own people 
 with you." He returned, but did not tell us plainly or truly 
 till this morning. 
 
 IQth. The headman of the village explained, and we sent 
 two of our men, who had a night's rest with the turn-again 
 fellow of yesterday. I am pale, bloodless, and weak from 
 bleeding profusely ever since the 31st of March last: an 
 artery gives off a copious stream, and takes away my strength.
 
 THE MARSHES OF BANGWEOLO. 397 
 
 Oh, how I long to be permitted by the Over Power to finish 
 my work. 
 
 12th. Cross the Muanakazi. It is about 100 or 130 yards 
 broad, and deep. Great loss of offta made me so weak I 
 could hardly walk, but tottered along nearly two hours, and 
 then lay down quite done. Cooked coffee our last and 
 went on, but in an hour I was compelled to lie down. Yery 
 unwilling to be carried, but on being pressed I allowed the 
 men to help me along by relays to Chinama, where there is 
 much cultivation. We camped in a garden of dura. 
 
 13A. Found that we had slept on the right bank of the 
 Lolotikila, a sluggish, marshy-looking river, very winding, 
 but here going about south-west. The country is all so very 
 flat that the rivers down here are of necessity tortuous. 
 Fish and other food abundant, and the people civil and 
 reasonable. They usually partake largely of the character 
 of the chief, and this one, Gondochite, is polite. 
 
 One sees interminable grassy prairies with lines of trees, 
 occupying quarters of miles in breadth, and these give way 
 to bouga or prairie again. The bouga is flooded annually, 
 but its vegetation consists of dry land grasses. Other bouga 
 extend out from the lake up to forty miles, and are known 
 by aquatic vegetation, such as lotus, papyrus, arums, rushes 
 of different species, and many kinds of purely aquatic sub- 
 aqueous plants which send up their flowers only to fructify 
 in the sun, and then sink to ripen one bunch after another. 
 Others, with great cabbage-looking leaves, seem to remain 
 always at the bottom. The young of fish swarm, and bob 
 in and out from the leaves. 
 
 One species of fish has the lower jaw turned down into a 
 hook, which enables the animal to hold its mouth close to 
 the plant as it glides up or down, sucking in all the soft 
 pulpy food. The superabundance of gelatinous nutriment 
 makes these swarmers increase in bulk with extraordinary 
 rapidity, and the food supply of the people is plenteous in 
 consequence. The number of fish caught by weirs, baskets, 
 and nets now, as the waters decline, is prodigious. The fish
 
 398 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 feel their element becoming insufficient for comfort, and 
 retire from one bouga to another towards the lake ; the 
 narrower parts are duly prepared by weirs to take advantage 
 of their necessities; the sun heat seems to oppress them 
 aijd force them to flee. With the south-east aerial current 
 comes heat and sultriness. A blanket is scarcely needed 
 till the early hours of the morning, and here, after the turtle 
 doves and cocks give out their warning calls to the watchful, 
 the fish-eagle lifts up his remarkable voice. It is pitched in 
 a high falsetto key, very loud, and seems as if he were 
 calling to some one in the other world. Once heard, his 
 weird unearthly voice can never be forgotten it sticks to 
 one through life. 
 
 We were four hours in being ferried over the Loitikila, 
 or Lolotikila, in four small canoes, and then two hours south- 
 west down its left bank to another river, where our camp 
 has been formed. I sent over a present to the headman, 
 and a man returned with the information that he was ill at 
 another village, but his wife would send canoes to-morrow 
 to transport us over and set us on our way to Muanazam- 
 bamba, south-west, and over Lolotikila again. 
 
 14tfA. At a branch of the Lolotikila. 
 
 15th. Cross Lolotikila again (where it is only fifty yards) 
 by canoes, and went south-west an hour. I, being very 
 weak, had to be carried part of the way. Am glad of rest- 
 ing ; aipa flow copiously last night. A woman, the wife of 
 the chief, gave a present of a goat and maize. 
 
 16th. Went south-west two and a half hours, and crossed 
 the Lombatwa River of 100 yards in width, rush deep, and 
 flowing fast in aquatic vegetation, papyrus, etc., into the 
 Loitikila. In all about three hours south-west. 
 
 llth. A tremendous rain after dark burst all our now 
 rotten tents to shreds. Went on at 6.35 A. M. for three hours, 
 and I, who was suffering severely all night, had to rest. We 
 got water near the surface by digging in yellow sand. Three 
 hills now appear in the distance. Our course, S. W. three 
 and three-quarter hours to a village on the Kazya River. A
 
 LIVINGSTONE VERY ILL. 399 
 
 iNyassa man declared that his father had brought the heavy 
 rain of the 16th on us. We crossed three sponges. 
 
 18A. On leaving the village on the Kazya, we forded it 
 and found it seventy yards broad, waist to breast deep all 
 over. A large weir spanned it, and we went on the lower 
 side of that. Much papyrus and other aquatic plants in it. 
 Fish are returning now with the falling waters, and are 
 guided into the rush-cones set for them. Crossed two large 
 sponges, and I was forced to stop at a village after traveling 
 S. W. for two hours : very ill all night, but remembered that 
 the bleeding and most other ailments in this land are forms 
 of fever. Took two scruple doses of quinine, and stopped it 
 quite. 
 
 19tfA. A fine bracing S. E. breeze kept me on the donkey 
 across a broad sponge, and over flats of white sandy soil and 
 much cultivation for an hour and a half, when we stopped at 
 a large village on the right bank of ,* and men went 
 
 over to the chief Muanzambamba to ask canoes to cross to- 
 morrow. I am excessively weak, and but for the donkey 
 could not move a hundred yards. It is not all pleasure this 
 exploration. The Lavusi hills are a relief to the eye in this 
 flat upland. Their forms show an igneous origin. The river 
 Kazya comes from them and goes direct into the lake. No 
 observations now, owing to great weakness ; I can scarcely 
 hold the pencil, and my stick is a burden. Tent gone ; the 
 men build a good hut for me and the luggage. S. "W". one 
 and a half hour. 
 
 20th April, Sunday. Service. Cross over the sponge, 
 Moenda, for food and to be near the headman of these parts, 
 Moanzatubamba. I am excessively weak. Village on Moenda 
 sponge, 7 A. M. Cross Lokulu in a canoe. The river is about 
 thirty yards broad, very deep, and flowing in marshes two 
 knots from S. S. E. to N. K W. into lake. 
 
 * He leaves room for a name which perhaps in his exhausted state he 
 forgot to ascertain.
 
 400 
 
 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 *** 
 
 7-1 
 
 
 . V 
 
 / 
 
 TAC-SIMILES Or LAST KNTR1KS IN NOTE-BOOK.
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 CONTINUATION OF THE NARRATIVE. 
 
 (AT ILALA DEATH OF LIVINGSTONE HEROISM OF HIS FOLLOWERS.) 
 
 /TT7E have now arrived at the last words written in Dr. 
 y I T Livingstone's diary : a fac-simile of the last entries 
 in his pocket-book, which contains them, is given on the last 
 page. It is evident that he was unable to do more than 
 make the shortest memoranda, and to mark on the map 
 which he was making the streams which enter the lake as 
 he crossed them. From the 22nd to the 27th April he had 
 not strength to write down anything but the several dates. 
 Fortunately Susi and Chumah give a very clear and circum- 
 stantial account of every incident which occurred on these 
 days, and we shall therefore add what they say, after each 
 of the Doctor's entries. He writes : ) 
 
 21 April. Tried to ride but was forced to lie down, 
 and they carried me back to vil. exhausted. 
 
 [The men explain this entry thus : This morning the 
 Doctor tried if he were strong enough to ride on the donkey, 
 but he had only gone a short distance when he fell to the 
 ground utterly exhausted and faint. Susi immediately undid 
 his belt and pistol, and picked up his cap which had dropped 
 off, while Chumah threw down his gnn and ran to stop 
 the men on ahead. When he got back the Doctor said, 
 "Chumah, I have lost so much blood, there is no more 
 strength left in my legs : you must carry me." He was then 
 assisted gently to his shoulders, and, holding the man's head 
 to steady himself, was borne back to the village and placed 
 in the hut he had so recently left. It was necessary to let
 
 404 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 the Chief Muanazawamba know what had happened, and 
 for this purpose Dr. Livingstone dispatched a messenger. 
 He was directed to ask him to supply a guide for the next 
 day, as he trusted then to have recovered so far as to be 
 able to march : the answer was, " Stay as long as you wish, 
 and when you want guides to Kalunganjovu's you shall have 
 them."] 
 
 22nd April. Carried on kitanda over Buga S. W. 2J. 
 
 [His servants say that instead of rallying, they saw that 
 his strength was becoming less and less, and in order to 
 carry him they made a kitanda of wood, consisting of two 
 side pieces of seven feet in length, crossed with rails three 
 feet long, and about four inches apart, the whole lashed 
 strongly together. This framework was covered with grass, 
 and a blanket laid on it. Slung from a pole, and borne 
 between two strong men, it made a tolerable palanquin, and 
 on this the exhausted traveler was conveyed to the next 
 village through a flooded grass plain. To render the kit- 
 anda more comfortable another blanket was suspended across 
 the pole, so as to hang down on either side, and allow the 
 air to pass under whilst the sun's rays were fended off from 
 the sick man. The start was deferred this morning until 
 the dew was off the heads of the long grass sufficiently to 
 insure his being kept tolerably dry. 
 
 The excruciating pains of his dysenteric malady caused 
 him the greatest exhaustion as they marched, and they were 
 glad enough to reach another village in 2 hours, having 
 traveled S. W. from the last point. Here another hut was 
 built. The name of the halting-place is not remembered by 
 the men, for the villagers fled at their approach ; indeed the 
 noise made by the drums sounding the alarm had been 
 caught by the Doctor some time before, and he exclaimed 
 with thankfulness on hearing it, " Ah, now we are near !" 
 Throughout this day the following men acted as bearers of 
 the kitanda : Chowpere, Songolo, Chumah, and Adiamberi. 
 Sowfere, too, joined in at one time.] 
 
 23rd April. (No entry except the date.)
 
 I 
 
 LAST ENTRIES IN DIARY. 405 
 
 [They advanced another hour and a half through the same 
 expanse of flooded treeless waste, passing numbers of small 
 fish-weirs set in such a manner as to catch the fish on their 
 way back to the lake, but seeing nothing of the owners, 
 who had either hidden themselves or taken to flight on the 
 approach of the caravan. Another village afforded them a 
 night's shelter, but it seems not to be known by any particu- 
 lar name.] 
 
 247i April. (No entry except the date.) 
 
 [But one hour's march was accomplished to-day, and again 
 they halted amongst some huts place unknown. His great 
 prostration made progress exceedingly painful, and frequently 
 when it was necessary to stop the bearers of the kitanda, 
 Chumah had to support the Doctor from falling.] 
 
 25th April. (No entry except the date.) 
 
 [In an hour's course S.W. they arrived at a village in 
 which they found a few people. Whilst his servants were 
 busy completing the hut for the night's encampment, the 
 Doctor, who was lying in a shady place on the kitanda, 
 ordered them to fetch one of the villagers. The chief of 
 the place had disappeared, but the rest of his people seemed 
 quite at their ease, and drew near to hear what was going to 
 be said. They were asked whether they knew of a hill on 
 which four rivers took their rise. The spokesman answered 
 that they had no knowledge of it ; they themselves, said he, 
 were not travelers, and all those who used to go on trading 
 expeditions were now dead. In former years Malenga's 
 town, Kutchinyama, was the assembling place of the Wabiea 
 traders, but these had been swept off by the Mazitu. Such 
 as survived had to exist as best they could amongst the 
 swamps and inundated districts around the lake. Whenever 
 an expedition was organized to go to the coast, or in any 
 other direction, travelers met at Malenga's town to talk 
 over the route to be taken : then would have been the time, 
 said they, to get information about every part. Dr. Living- 
 stone was here obliged to dismiss them, and explained that 
 he was too ill to continue talking, but he begged them to
 
 4:06 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 bring as much food as they could for sale to Kalunganjovu's.] 
 
 26/* April. (No entry except the date.) 
 
 [They proceeded as far as Kalunganjovu's town, the chief 
 himself coming to meet them on the way dressed in Arab 
 costume and wearing a red fez. Whilst waiting here Susi 
 was instructed to count over the bags of beads, and, on 
 reporting that twelve still remained in stock, Dr. Livingstone 
 told him to buy two large tusks if an opportunity occurred, 
 as he might run short of goods by the time they got to Ujiji, 
 and could then exchange them with the Arabs there for 
 cloth, to spend on their way to Zanzibar.] 
 
 To-day, the Nth April, 1873, he seems to have been almost 
 dying. No entry at all was made in his diary after that 
 which follows, and it must have taxed him to the utmost to 
 write : 
 
 "Knocked up quite, and remain recover sent to buy 
 milch goats. We are on the banks of the Molilamo." 
 They are the last words that David Livingstone wrote. 
 
 From this point we have to trust entirely to the narrative 
 of the men. They explain the above sentence as follows : 
 Salimane, Amisi, Hamsani, and Laede, accompanied by a 
 guide, were sent off to endeavor if possible to buy some 
 milch goats on the upper part of the Molilamo. They could 
 not, however, succeed ; it was always the same story the 
 Mazitu had taken everything. The chief, nevertheless, sent 
 a substantial present of a kid and three baskets of ground- 
 nuts, and the people were willing enough to exchange food 
 for beads. Thinking he could eat some Mapira corn 
 pounded up with ground-nuts, the Doctor gave instructions 
 to the two women M'sozi and M'toweka, to prepare it for 
 him, but he was not able to take it when they brought it to 
 him. 
 
 28A April. Men were now dispatched in an opposite 
 direction, that is to visit the villages on the right bank of 
 the Molilamo as it flows to the lake ; unfortunately they 
 met with no better result, and returned empty handed. 
 
 On the 29A April, Kalunganjovu and most of his people
 
 THE JOURNAL CLOSES. 407 
 
 came early to the village. The chief wished to assist hi8 
 guest to the utmost, and stated that as he could not be sure 
 that a sufficient number of canoes would be forthcoming 
 unless he took charge of matters himself, he should accom- 
 pany the caravan to the crossing place, which was about an 
 hour's march from the spot. " Everything should be done 
 for his friend," he said. 
 
 They were ready to set out. On Susi's going to the hut, 
 Dr. Livingstone told him that he was quite unable to walk 
 to the door to reach the kitanda, and he wished the men to 
 break down one side of the little house, as the entrance was 
 too narrow to admit it, and in this manner to bring it to him 
 where he was : this was done, and he was gently placed upon 
 it, and borne out of the village. 
 
 Their course was in the direction of the stream, and they 
 followed it till they came to a reach where the current was 
 uninterrupted by the numerous little islands which stood 
 partly in the river and partly in the flood on the upper 
 waters. Kalunganjovu was seated on a knoll, and actively 
 superintended the embarkation, whilst Dr. Livingstone told 
 his bearers to take him to a tree at a little distance off, that 
 he might rest in the shade till most of the men were on the 
 other side. A good deal of care was required, for the river, 
 by no means a large one in ordinary times, spread its waters 
 in all directions, so that a false step, or a stumble in any 
 unseen hole, would have drenched the invalid and the bed 
 also on which he was carried. 
 
 The passage occupied some time, and then came the diffi- 
 cult task of conveying the Doctor across, for the canoes were 
 not wide enough to allow the kitanda to be deposited in the 
 bottom of either of them. Hitherto, no matter how weak, 
 Livingstone had always been able to sit in the various canoes 
 they had used on like occasions, but now he had no power 
 to do so. Taking his bed off the kitanda, they laid it in the 
 bottom of the strongest canoe, and tried to lift him ; but he 
 could not bear the pain of a hand being passed under his 
 back. Beckoning to Chumah, in a faint voice he asked him
 
 408 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 to Btoop down over him as low as possible, so that lie might 
 clasp his hands together behind his head, directing him at 
 the same time how to avoid any pressure on the lumbar 
 region of the back ; in this way he was deposited in the 
 bottom of the canoe, and quickly ferried across the Molilamo 
 by Chowpere, Susi, Farijala, and Chumah. The same pre- 
 cautions were used on the other side: the kitanda was 
 brought close to the canoe, so as to prevent any unnecessary 
 pain in disembarking. 
 
 Susi now hurried on ahead to reach Chitambo's village, 
 and superintend the building of another house. For the 
 first mile or two they had to carry the Doctor through 
 swamps and plashes, glad to reach something like a dry 
 plain at last. 
 
 It would seem that his strength was here at its very 
 lowest ebb. Chumah, one of his bearers on these the last 
 weary miles the great traveler was destined to accomplish, 
 says that they were every now and then implored to stop 
 and place their burdens on the ground. So great were 
 the pangs of his disease during this day that he could 
 make no attempt to stand, and if lifted for a few yards 
 a drowsiness came over him, which alarmed them all exces- 
 sively. This was specially the case at one spot where a tree 
 stood in the path. Here one of his attendants was called 
 to him, and, on stooping down, he found him unable to 
 speak from faintness. They replaced him in the kitanda, 
 and made the best of their way on the journey. Some dis- 
 tance further on great thirst oppressed him ; he asked them 
 if they had any water, but, unfortunately for once, not a 
 drop was to be procured. Hastening on for fear of getting 
 too far separated from the party in advance, to their great 
 comfort they now saw Farijala approaching with some 
 which Susi had thoughtfully sent off from Chitambo's 
 village. 
 
 Still wending their way on, it seemed as if they would 
 not complete their task, for again at a clearing the sick 
 man entreated them to place him on the ground, and to let
 
 ARRIVAL AT ILALA. 409 
 
 him stay where he was. Fortunately at this moment some 
 of the outlying huts of the village came in sight, and they 
 tried to rally him by telling him that he would quickly be 
 in the house that the others had gone on to build, but they 
 were obliged as it was to allow him to remain for an hour in 
 the native gardens outside the town. 
 
 On reaching their companions it was found that the work 
 was not quite finished, and it became necessary therefore to 
 lay him under the broad eaves of a native hut till things 
 were ready. 
 
 Chitambo's village at this time was almost empty. When 
 the crops are growing it is the custom to erect little tem- 
 porary houses in the fields, and the inhabitants, leaving their 
 more substantial huts, pass the time in watching their crops, 
 which are scarcely more safe by day than by night ; thus it 
 was that the men found plenty of room and shelter ready to 
 their hand. Many of the people approached the spot where 
 he lay whose praises had reached them in previous years, 
 and in silent wonder they stood round him resting on their 
 bows. Slight drizzling showers were falling, arid as soon as 
 possible his house was made ready and banked round with 
 earth. 
 
 Inside it, the bed was raised from the floor by sticks and 
 grass, occupying a position across and near to the bay-shaped 
 end of the hut : in the bay itself bales and boxes were depos- 
 ited, one of the latter doing duty for a table, on which 
 the medicine chest and sundry other things were placed. 
 A fire was lighted outside, nearly opposite the door, whilst 
 the boy Majwara slept just within to attend to his master's 
 wants in the night. 
 
 On the 3Qth April, 1873, Chitambo came early to pay a 
 visit of courtesy, and was shown into the Doctor's presence, 
 but he was obliged to send him away, telling him to come 
 again on the morrow when he hoped to have more strength 
 to talk to him, and he was not again disturbed. In the 
 afternoon he asked Susi to bring his watch to. the bedside, 
 and explained to him the position in which to hold his
 
 410 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 hand, that it might lie in the palm whilst he slowly turned 
 the key. 
 
 So the hours stole on till nightfall. The men silently 
 took to their huts, whilst others, whose duty it was to keep 
 watch, sat round the fires, all feeling that the end could not 
 be far off. About 11 p. M. Susi, whose hut was close by, was 
 told to go to his master. At the time there were loud 
 shouts in the distance, and, on entering, Dr. Livingstone 
 said, "Are our men making that noise?" "No," replied 
 Susi ; " I can hear from the cries that the people are scaring 
 away a buffalo from their dura fields." A few minutes after- 
 wards he said slowly, and evidently wandering, "Is this 
 the Luapula?" Susi told him they were in Chitambo's 
 village, near the Molilamo, when he was silent for a while. 
 Again, speaking to Susi, in Suaheli this time, he said, 
 " Sikun'gapi kuenda Luapula 2 " (How many days is it to 
 the Luapula ?) 
 
 "Na zani zikutatu, Bwana" (I think it is three days, 
 master), replied Susi. 
 
 A few seconds after, as if in great pain, he half sighed, 
 half said, " Oh dear, dear ! " and then dozed off again. 
 
 It was about an hour later that Susi heard Hajwara 
 again outside the door, "Bwana wants you, Susi." On 
 reaching the bed the Doctor told him he wished him to 
 boil some water, and for this purpose he went to the fire 
 outside, and soon returned with the copper kettle full. Call- 
 ing him close, he asked him to bring his medicine-chest 
 and to hold the candle near him, for the man noticed he 
 could hardly see. With great difficulty Dr. Livingstone 
 selected the calomel, which he told him to place by his side ; 
 then directing him to pour a little water into a cup, and to 
 put another empty one by it, he said in a low feeble voice, 
 "All right; you can go out now." These were the last 
 words he was ever heard to speak. 
 
 It must have been about 4 A. M. when Susi heard Majwara's 
 step once more. " Come to Bwana, I am afraid ; I don't 
 know if he is alive." The lad's evident alarm made Susi
 
 LIVINGSTONE DEAD. 411 
 
 run to arouse Chumah, Chowpere, Matthew, and Muan- 
 yasere, and the six men went immediately to the hut. 
 
 Passing inside they looked towards the bed. Dr. Living- 
 stone was not lying on it, but appeared to be engaged in 
 prayer, and they instinctively drew backwards for the instant. 
 Pointing to him, Majwara said, " When I lay down he was 
 just as he is now, and it is because I find that he does not 
 move that I fear he is dead." They asked the lad how long 
 he had slept ? Majwara said he could not tell, but he was 
 sure that it was some considerable time: the men drew 
 nearer. 
 
 A candle stuck by its own wax to the top of the box, 
 shed a light sufficient for them to see his form. Dr. Living- 
 stone was kneeling by the side of his bed, his body stretched 
 forward, his head buried in his hands upon the pillow. For 
 a minute they watched him: he did not stir, there was 
 no sign of breathing ; then one of them, Matthew, advanced 
 softly to him and placed his hands to his cheeks. It was 
 sufficient ; life had been extinct some time, and the body 
 was almost cold : Livingstone was dead. 
 
 His sad-hearted servants raised him tenderly up, and 
 laid him full length on the bed, then, carefully covering him, 
 they went out into the damp night air to consult together.. 
 It was not long before the cocks crew, and it is from this 
 circumstance coupled with the fact that Susi spoke to him 
 some time shortly before midnight that we are able to 
 state with tolerable certainty that he expired early on the 
 1st of May. 
 
 It has been thought best to give the narrative of these 
 closing hours as nearly as possible in the words of the 
 two men who attended him constantly, both here and in 
 the many illnesses of like character which he endured in 
 his last six years' wanderings ; in fact from the first moment 
 of the news arriving in England, it was felt to be indis- 
 pensable that they should come home to state what occurred. 
 ***** 
 
 The men have much to consider as they cower around the 
 w
 
 412 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 watch-fire, and little time for deliberation. They are at 
 their furthest point from home and their leader has fallen at 
 their head; we shall see presently how they faced their 
 difficulties. 
 
 Several inquiries will naturally arise on reading this dis- 
 tressing history ; the foremost, perhaps, will be with regard 
 to the entire absence of everything like a parting word to 
 those immediately about him, or a farewell line to his family 
 and friends at home. It must be very evident to the reader 
 that Livingstone entertained very grave forebodings about 
 his health during the last two years of his life, but it is not 
 clear that he realized the near approach of death when his 
 malady suddenly passed into a more dangerous stage. 
 
 It may be said, " Why did he not take some precautions 
 or give some strict injunctions to his men to preserve his 
 note-books and maps, at all hazards, in the event of his 
 decease? Did not his great ruling passion suggest some 
 such precaution ?" 
 
 Fair questions, but, reader, you have all every word 
 written, spoken, or implied. 
 
 Is there, then, no explanation? Yes; we think past 
 experience affords it, and it is offered to you by one who 
 remembers moreover how Livingstone himself used to point 
 out to him in Africa the peculiar features of death by malarial 
 poisoning. 
 
 In full recollection of eight deaths in the Zambesi and 
 Shire districts, not a single parting word or direction in any 
 instance can be recalled. Neither hope nor courage give way 
 as death approaches. In most cases a comatose state of 
 exhaustion supervenes, which, if it be not quickly arrested 
 by active measures, passes into complete insensibility : this 
 is almost invariably the closing scene. 
 
 It may be that at the last a flash of conviction for a moment 
 lit up the mind if so, what greater consolation can those 
 have who mourn his loss, than the account that the men 
 give of what they saw when they entered the hut ?
 
 COUNCIL OF LIVINGSTONE'S MEN. 4-13 
 
 Livingstone had not merely turned himself, he had risen 
 to pray ; he still rested on his knees, his hands w,ere clasped 
 under his head : when they approached him he seemed to 
 live. He had not fallen to right or left when he rendered 
 up his spirit to God. Death required no change of limb or 
 position ; there was merely the gentle settling forwards of 
 the frame unstrung by pain, for the Traveler's perfect rest 
 had come. Will not time show that the men were scarcely 
 wrong when they thought " he yet speaketh " aye, perhaps 
 far more clearly to us than he could have done by word or 
 pen or any other means ! 
 
 Is it, then, presumptuous to think that the long-used fer- 
 vent prayer of the wanderer sped forth once more that the 
 constant supplication became more perfect in weakness, and 
 that from his " loneliness " David Livingstone, with a dying 
 effort, yet again besought Him for whom he labored to 
 
 break down the oppression and woe of the land ? 
 
 ***** 
 
 ' Before daylight the men were quietly told in each hut 
 what had happened, and that they were to assemble. Coming 
 together as soon as it was light enough to see, Susi and 
 Chumah said that they wished everybody to be present whilst 
 the boxes were opened, so that in case money or valuables 
 were in them, all might be responsible. Jacob Wainwright 
 (who could write, they knew) was asked to make some notes 
 which should serve as an inventory, and then the boxes were 
 brought out from the hut. 
 
 Jacob's entry is as follows, and it was thoughtfully made 
 at the back end of the same note-book that was in use by the 
 Doctor when he died. It runs as follows : 
 
 " 11 o'clock night, 28th April. 
 
 "In the chest was found about a shilling and half, 
 and in other chest his hat, 1 watch, and 2 small boxes of 
 measuring instrument, and in each box there was one. 1 
 compass, 3 other kind of measuring instrument. 4 other 
 kind of measuring instrument. And in other chest 3 
 drachmas and half half scrople."
 
 414 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 It was not without some alarm that the men realked their 
 more immediate difficulties : none could see better than they 
 what complications might arise in an hour. 
 
 They knew the superstitious horror connected with the 
 dead to be prevalent in the tribes around them, for the 
 departed spirits of men are universally believed to have 
 vengeance and mischief at heart as their ruling idea in the 
 land beyond the grave. All rites turn on this belief. The 
 religion of the African is a weary attempt to propitiate those 
 who show themselves to be still able to haunt and destroy, 
 as war comes or an accident happens. 
 
 On this account it is not to be wondered at that chief 
 and people make common cause against those who wander 
 through their territory, and have the misfortune to lose one 
 of their party by death. Who is to tell the consequences ? 
 Such occurrences are looked on as most serious offences, 
 and the men regarded their position with no small appre- 
 hension. 
 
 Calling the whole party together, Susi and Chumah 
 placed the state of affairs before them, and asked what 
 should be done. They received a reply from those whom 
 Mr. Stanley had engaged for Dr. Livingstone, which was 
 hearty and unanimous. " You," said they, " are old men in 
 traveling and in hardships ; you must act as our chiefs, and 
 we will promise to obey whatever you order us to do." 
 Prom this moment we may look on Susi and Chumah as 
 the captains of the caravan. To their knowledge of the 
 country, of the tribes through which they were to pass, but, 
 above all, to the sense of discipline and cohesion which was 
 maintained throughout, their safe return to Zanzibar at the 
 head of their men must, under God's good guidance, be 
 mainly attributed. 
 
 All agreed that Chitambo ought to be kept in ignorance 
 of Dr. Livingstone's decease, or otherwise a fine so heavy 
 would be inflicted upon them as compensation for damage 
 done that their means would be crippled, and they could 
 hardly expect to pay their way to the coast. It was decided
 
 CHITAMBO MOURNS FOR HIS FRIEND. 415 
 
 that, come what might, the body must be borne to Zanzibar. 
 It was also arranged to take it secretly, if possible, to a 
 hut at some distance off, where the necessary preparations 
 could be carried out, and for this purpose some men were 
 now dispatched with axes to cut wood, whilst others went to 
 collect grass. Chumah set off to see Chitambo. and said 
 that they wanted to build a place outside the village, if he 
 would allow it, for they did not like living amongst the 
 huts. His consent was willingly given. 
 
 Later on in the day two of the men went to the people 
 to buy food, and divulged the secret : the chief was at 
 once informed of what had happened, and started for the 
 spot on which the new buildings were being set up. Appeal- 
 ing to Chumah, he said, " Why did you not tell me the 
 truth ? I know that your master died last night. You 
 were afraid to let me know, but do not fear any longer. I, 
 too, have traveled, and more than once have been to Bwani 
 (the Coast), before the country on the road was destroyed 
 by the Mazitu. I know that you have no bad motives in 
 coming to our land, and death often happens to travelers 
 in their journeys." Reassured by this speech, they told 
 him of their intention to prepare the body and to take it 
 with them. He, however, said it would be far better to bury 
 it there, for they were undertaking an impossible task ; but 
 they held to their resolution. The corpse was conveyed to 
 the new hut the same day on the kitanda carefully covered 
 with cloth and a blanket. 
 
 2nd May, 1873. The next morning Susi paid a visit to 
 Chitambo, making him a handsome present and receiving 
 in return a kind welcome. It is only right to add, that the 
 men speak on all occasions with gratitude of Chitambo's 
 conduct throughout, and say that he is a fine generous 
 fellow. Following out his suggestion, it was agreed that all 
 honors should be shown to the dead, and the customary 
 mourning was arranged forthwith. 
 
 At the proper time, Chitambo, leading his people, and 
 accompanied by his wives, came to the new settlement. He
 
 416 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 was clad in a broad red cloth, which covered the shoulders, 
 whilst the wrappings of native cotton cloth, worn round the 
 waist, fell as low as his ankles. All carried bows, and arrows, 
 spears, but no guns were seen. Two drummers joined in 
 the loud wailing lamentation, which so indelibly impresses 
 itself on the memories of people who have heard it in the 
 East, whilst the band of servants fired volley after volley 
 in the air, according to the strict rule of Portuguese and 
 Arabs on such occasions. 
 
 As yet nothing had been done to the corpse. 
 
 A separate hut was now built, about ninety feet from the 
 principal one. It was constructed in such a manner that 
 it should be open to the air at the top, and sufficiently 
 strong to defy the attempts of any wild beast to break 
 through it. Firmly driven boughs and saplings were 
 planted side by side and bound together, so as to make a 
 regular stockade. Close to this building the men con- 
 structed their huts, and, finally, the whole settlement had 
 another high stockade carried completely around it. 
 
 Arrangements were made the same day to treat the corpse 
 on the following morning. One of the men, Safene, whilst 
 in Kalunganjovu's district, bought a large quantity of salt : 
 this was purchased of him for sixteen strings of beads, 
 there was besides some brandy in the Doctor's stores, and 
 with these materials they hoped to succeed in their object. 
 
 Farijala was appointed to the necessary task. He had 
 picked up some knowledge of the method pursued in making 
 post-mortem, examinations, whilst a servant to a doctor at 
 Zanzibar, and at his request, Carras, one of the Nassick 
 boys, was told off to assist him. Previous to this, however, 
 early on the 3rd May, a special mourner arrived. He came 
 with the anklets which are worn on these occasions, com- 
 posed of rows of hollow seed-vessels, fitted with rattling 
 pebbles, and in low monotonous chant sang, whilst he danced, 
 as follows : 
 
 Lelo kwa Engerese, 
 Muana sisi oa konda : 
 Tu kamb' tamb' Engerese. 
 
 which translated is
 
 * 
 ~ 
 
 O CO 
 
 > 
 
 & Q 
 o O
 
 PREPARATIONS FUNERAL SERVICES AT ILALA. 419 
 
 To-day the Englishman is dead, 
 Who hag different hair from ours : 
 Come round to see the Englishman. 
 
 His task over, the mourner and his son, who accompanied 
 him in the ceremony, retired with a suitable present of beads. 
 
 The emaciated remains of the deceased traveler were 
 soon afterwards taken to the place prepared. Over the 
 heads of Farijala and Carras Susi, Chumah, and Muanya- 
 sere held a thick blanket as a kind of screen, under which 
 the men performed their duties. Tofike and John Wain- 
 wright were present. Jacob Wainwright had been asked to 
 bring his Prayer Book with him, and stood apart against the 
 wall of the enclosure. 
 
 In reading about the lingering sufferings of Dr. Living- 
 stone as described by himself, and subsequently by these 
 faithful fellows, one is quite prepared to understand their 
 explanation, and to see why it was possible to defer these 
 operations so long after death : they say that his frame was 
 little more than skin and bone. Through an incision care- 
 fully made, the viscera were removed, and a quantity of salt 
 was placed in the trunk. 
 
 The heart, with the other parts removed, were placed in a 
 tin box, which had formerly contained flour, and decently 
 and reverently buried in a hole dug some four feet deep on 
 the spot where they stood. Jacob was then asked to read 
 the Burial Service, which he did in the presence of all. The 
 body was left to be fully exposed to the sun. No other 
 means were taken to preserve it, beyond placing some brandy 
 in the mouth and some on the hair ; nor can one imagine for 
 an instant that any other process would have been available 
 either for Europeans or natives, considering the rude appli- 
 ances at their disposal. The men kept watch day and night 
 to see that no harni came to their sacred charge. Their huts 
 surrounded the building, and had force been used to enter 
 its strongly-barred door, the whole camp would have turned 
 out in a moment. Once a day the position of the body was 
 changed, but at no other time was any one allowed to 
 approach it.
 
 420 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 No molestation of any kind took place during the fourteen 
 days' exposure. At the end of this period preparations were 
 made for retracing their steps. The corpse, by this time 
 tolerably dried, was wrapped round in some calico, the legs 
 being bent inwards at the knees to shorten the package. 
 The next thing was to plan something in which to carry it, 
 and, in the absence of planking or tools, an admirable sub- 
 stitute was found by stripping from a Myonga tree enough 
 of the bark in one piece to form a cylinder, and in it their 
 master was laid. Over this case a piece of sailcloth was sewn, 
 and the whole package was lashed securely to a pole, so as to 
 be carried by two men. 
 
 Jacob Wainwright was asked to carve an inscription on 
 the large Mvula tree which stands by the place where the 
 body rested, stating the name of Dr. Livingstone and the 
 date of his death, and, before leaving, the men gave strict 
 injunctions to Chitambo to keep the grass cleared away, so 
 as to save it from the bush-fires which annually sweep over 
 the country and destroy so many trees. Besides this, they 
 erected close to the spot two high thick posts, with an equally 
 strong cross-piece, like a lintel and door-posts in form, which 
 they painted thoroughly with the tar that was intended for 
 the boat : this sign they think will remain for a long time 
 from the solidity of the timber. Before parting with Chi- 
 tambo, they gave him a large tin biscuit-box and some news- 
 papers, which would serve as evidence to all future travelers 
 that a white man had been at his village. 
 
 The chief promised to do all he could to keep both the 
 tree and the timber sign-posts from being touched, but 
 added, that he hoped the English would not be long in coming 
 to see him, because there was always the risk of an invasion 
 of Mazitu, when he would have to fly, and the tree might be 
 cut down for a canoe by some one, and then all trace would 
 be lost. All was now ready for starting.
 
 CHAPTER XXYL 
 
 CONTINUATION OF THE NARRATIVE. 
 
 (THE HOMEWARD MARCH TO UNYANYEMBE AND ZANZIBAR.) 
 
 THE homeward march was then begun. Throughout its 
 length we shall content ourselves with giving the 
 approximate number of days occupied in traveling and halt- 
 ing. Although the memories of both men are excellent 
 standing the severest test when they are tried by the light 
 of Dr. Livingstone's journals, or " set on " at any passage of 
 his travels they kept no precise record of the time spent at 
 villages where they were detained by sickness, and so the 
 exactness of a diary can no longer be sustained. 
 
 To return to the caravan. They found on this the first 
 day's journey that some other precautions were necessary to 
 enable the bearers of the mournful burden to keep to their 
 task. Sending to Chitambo's village, they brought thence 
 the cask of tar which they had deposited with the chief, and 
 gave a thick coating to the canvas outside. This answered 
 all purposes; they left the remainder at the next village, 
 with orders to send it back to head-quarters, and then con- 
 tinued their course through Ilala, led by their guides in the 
 direction of the Luapula. 
 
 Susi and Chumah had traveled with Dr. Livingstone in 
 the neighborhood of the north-west shores of Bangweolo in 
 previous years. The last fatal road from the north might be 
 struck by a march in a due N.E. direction, if they could but 
 hold out so far without any serious misfortune ; but in order 
 to do this they must first strike northwards so as to reach 
 the Luapula, and then crossing it at some part not necessarily
 
 422 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 far from its exit from the lake, they could at once lay their 
 course for the south end of Tanganyika. 
 
 There were, however, serious indications amongst them. 
 First one and then the other dropped out of the file, and by 
 the time they reached a town belonging to Chitambo's 
 brother and on the third day only since they set out half 
 their number were Jiors de combat. It was impossible to go 
 on. A few hours more and all seemed affected. The 
 symptoms were intense pain in the limbs and face, great 
 prostration, and, in the bad cases, inability to move. The 
 men attributed it to the continual wading through water 
 before the Doctor's death. 
 
 Susi was suffering very much. The disease settled in one 
 leg, and then quickly shifted to the other. Songolo nearly 
 died. Kaniki and Bahati, two of the women, expired in a 
 few days, and all looked at its worst. It took them a good 
 month to rally sufficiently to resume their journey. 
 
 Fortunately in this interval the rains entirely ceased, and 
 the natives day by day brought an abundance of food to the 
 sick men. From them they heard that the districts they 
 were now in were notoriously unhealthy, and that many an 
 Arab had fallen out from the caravan march to leave his 
 bones in these wastes. One day five of the party made an 
 excursion to the westward, and on their return reported a 
 large deep river flowing into the Luapula on the left bank. 
 Unfortunately, no notice was taken of its name, for it would 
 be of considerable geographical interest. 
 
 At last they were ready to start again, and came to one of 
 the border villages in llala the same night, but the next day 
 several fell ill for the second time, Susi being quite unable 
 to move. 
 
 Muanamazungu, at whose place these relapses occurred, 
 was fully aware of everything that had taken place at 
 Chitambo's, and showed the men the greatest kindness. 
 Not a day passed without his bringing them some present or 
 other, but there was a great disinclination amongst the people 
 to listen to any details connected with Dr. Livingstone's
 
 ACROSS THE LUAPULA A NIGHT ATTACK. 423 
 
 death. Some return for their kindness was made by 
 Farijala shooting three buffaloes near the town : meat and 
 goodwill go together all over Africa, and the liberal sports- 
 man scores points at many a turn. A cow was purchased 
 here for some brass bracelets and calico, and on the twen- 
 tieth day all were sufficiently strong to push forwards. 
 
 The broad waters of the long-looked for Luapula soon 
 hove in sight. Putting themselves under a guide, they 
 were conducted to the village of Chisalamalama, who will- 
 ingly offered them canoes for the passage across the next 
 day. 
 
 As one listens to the report that the men give of this 
 mighty river, he instinctively bends his eyes on a dark burden 
 laid in the canoe ! How ardently would he have scanned it 
 whose body thus passes across these waters, and whose spirit, 
 in its last hours' sojourn in this world, wandered in thought 
 and imagination to its stream ! 
 
 It would seem that the Luapula at this point is double the 
 width of the Zambesi at Shupanga. This gives a breadth of 
 fully four miles. A man could not be seen on the opposite 
 bank : trees looked small : a gun could be heard, but no 
 shouting would ever reach a person across the river such is 
 the description given by men who were well able to compare 
 the Luapula with the Zambesi. Taking to the canoes, they 
 were able to use the " m'phondo," or punting pole, for a dis- 
 tance through reeds, then came clear deep water for some 
 four hundred yards, again a broad reedy expanse, followed 
 by another deep part, succeeded in turn by another current 
 not so broad as those previously paddled across, and then, 
 as on the starting side, gradually shoaling water, abounding 
 in reeds. Two islands lay just above the crossing-place. 
 Using pole and paddle alternately, the passage took them 
 fully two hours across this enormous torrent, which carries 
 off the waters of Bangweolo towards the north. 
 
 A sad mishap befell the donkey the first night of camping 
 beyond the Luapula, and this faithful and sorely-tried servant 
 was doomed to end his career at this spot !
 
 424 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 According to custom, a special stable was built for him 
 close to the men. In the middle of the night a great dis- 
 turbance, coupled with the shouting of Amoda, aroused the 
 camp. The men rushed out and found the stable broken 
 down and the donkey gone. Snatching some logs, they set 
 fire to the grass, as it was pitch dark, and by the light saw a 
 lion close to the body of the poor animal, which was quite 
 dead. Those who had caught up their guns on the first 
 alarm fired a volley, and the lion made off. It was evident 
 that the donkey had been seized by the nose, and instantly 
 killed. At daylight the spoor showed that the guns had 
 taken effect. The lion's blood lay in a broad track (for he 
 was apparently injured in the back, and could only drag 
 himself along) ; but the footprints of a second lion were too 
 plain to make it advisable to track him far in the thick cover 
 he had reached, and so the search was abandoned. The body 
 of the donkey was left behind, but two canoes remained near 
 the village, and it is most probable that it went to make a 
 feast at Chisalamalama's. 
 
 Traveling through incessant swamp and water, they were 
 fain to make their next stopping-place in a spot where an 
 enormous ant-hill spread itself out, a small island in the 
 waters. A fire was lit, and by employing hoes, most of 
 them dug something like a form to sleep in on the hard 
 earth. 
 
 Thankful to leave such a place their guide led them 
 next day to the village of Kawinga, whom they describe as a 
 tall man, of singularly light color, and the owner of a gun, 
 a unique weapon in these parts, but one already made 
 useless by wear and tear. The next village, N'kossu's, was 
 niuch more important. 
 
 A present was made to the caravan, of a cow ; but it seems 
 that the rule, "first catch your hare," is in full force in 
 N'kossu's pastures. The animals are exceedingly wild, and 
 a hunt has to be set on foot whenever beef is wanted ; it was so 
 in this case. Safene and Muanyasere with their guns essayed 
 to settle the difficulty. The latter, an old hunter as we have
 
 KAWEXDE SURGERY. 
 
 AN OI.O SKRVANT DKSTROYKI
 
 A DISASTER NATIVE SURGERY. 427 
 
 seen, was not likely to do much harm, but Safene, firing 
 wildly at a cow, hit one of the villagers, and smashed the bone 
 of the poor fellow's thigh. Although it was clearly an 
 accident, such things do not readily settle themselves down 
 on this assumption in Africa. The chief, however, behaved 
 very well. He told them a fine would have to be paid on 
 the return of the wounded man's father, and it had 
 better be handed to him, for by law the blame would 
 fall on him, as the entertainer of the man who had brought 
 about the injury. He admitted that he had ordered all his 
 people to stand clear of the spot where the disaster occurred, 
 but he supposed that in this instance his orders had not been 
 heard. They had not sufficient goods in any case to respond 
 to the demand ; the process adopted to set the broken limb 
 is a sample of native surgery which must not be overlooked. 
 First of all a hole was dug, say two feet deep and four in 
 length, in such a manner that the patient could sit in it 
 with his legs out before him. A large leaf was then bound 
 round the fractured thigh, and earth thrown in, so that the 
 patient was buried up to the chest. The next act was to 
 cover the earth which lay over the man's legs with a thick 
 layer of mud ; then plenty of sticks and grass were collected, 
 and a fire lit on the top directly over the fracture. To 
 prevent the smoke smothering the sufferer, they held a tall 
 mat as a screen before his face, and the operation went on. 
 After some time the heat reached the limbs underground. 
 Bellowing with fear and covered with perspiration, the man 
 implored them to let him out. The authorities concluding 
 that he had been under treatment a sufficient time, quickly 
 burrowed down and lifted him from the hole. He was now 
 held perfectly fast, whilst two strong men stretched the 
 wounded limb with all their might ! Splints, duly prepared 
 were afterwards bound round it, and we must hope that in 
 due time benefit accrued, but as the ball had passed through 
 the limb, we must have our doubts on the subject. The 
 villagers told Chumah that after the Wanyamwesi engage- 
 ments they thus treated gun-shot wounds with success.
 
 423 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Leaving N'kossu's, they rested one night at another vil- 
 lage belonging to him, and then made for the territory of 
 the Wa Ussi. Here they met with a surly welcome, and 
 were told they must pass on. No doubt the intelligence 
 that they were carrying their master's body had a great deal 
 to do with it, for the news seemed to spread with the great- 
 est rapidity in all directions. Three times they camped in 
 the forest, and for a wonder began to find some dry ground. 
 The path lay in the direct line of Chawende's town, parallel 
 to the north shore of the lake, and at no great distance 
 from it. 
 
 Some time previously a solitary Unyamwesi had attached 
 himself to the party at Chitankooi's, where he had been left 
 sick by a passing caravan of traders : this man now assured 
 them the country before them was well known to him. 
 
 Approaching Chawende's, according to native etiquette, 
 Amoda and Sabouri went on in front to inform the chief, 
 and to ask leave to enter his town. As they did not come 
 back, Muanyasere and Chumah set off after them to ascertain 
 the reason of the delay. No better success seemed to attend 
 this second venture, so shouldering their burdens, all went 
 forward in the track of the four messengers. 
 
 In the meantime, Chumah and Muanyasere met Amoda 
 and Sabouri coming back towards them with five men. They 
 reported that they had entered the town, but found it a 
 very large stockaded place ; moreover two other villages of 
 equal size were close to it. Much pombe drinking was 
 going on. On approaching the chief, Amoda had rested his 
 gun against the principal hut innocently enough. Chawende's 
 son, drunk and quarrelsome, made this a cause of offence, and 
 swaggering up, he insolently asked them how they dared to 
 do such a thing. Chawende interfered, and for the moment 
 prevented further disagreeables; in fact, he himself seems 
 to have been inclined to grant the favor which was asked; 
 however, there was danger brewing, and the men retired. 
 
 "When the main body met them returning, tired with their 
 fruitless errand, a consultation took place. "Wood there was
 
 TROUBLE AT CHAWENDE'S A FIGHT. 429 
 
 none. To scatter about and find materials with which to 
 build shelter for the night, would only offer a great tempta- 
 tion to these drunken excited people to plunder the baggage. 
 
 X J. A OO O 
 
 It was resolved to make for the town. 
 
 "When they reached the gate of the stockade they were 
 flatly refused admittance, those inside telling them to go 
 down to the river and camp on the bank. They replied 
 that this was impossible : that they were tired, it was very 
 late, and nothing could be found there to give them shelter. 
 Meeting with no different answer, Safene said, " Why stand 
 talking to them? let us get in somehow or other;" and, 
 suiting the action to the word, they pushed the men back 
 who stood in the gateway. Safeue got through, and Mua- 
 nyasere climbed over the top of the stockade, followed by 
 Chumah, who instantly opened the gate wide and let his 
 companions through. Hostilities might still have been 
 averted had better counsel prevailed. 
 
 The men began to look about for huts in which to 
 deposit their things, when the same drunken fellow drew 
 a bow and fired at Muanyasere. The man called out to 
 the others to seize him, which was done in an instant. 
 A loud cry now burst forth that the chiefs son was in 
 danger, and one of the people, hurling a spear, wounded 
 Sabouri slightly in the thigh : this was the signal for a 
 general scrimmage. 
 
 Chawende's men fled' from the town ; the drums beat the 
 assembly in all directions, and an immense number flocked 
 to the spot from the two neighboring villages, armed with 
 their bows, arrows, and spears. An assault instantly began 
 from the outside. N'chise was shot with an arrow in the 
 shoulder through the palisade, and N'taru in the finger. 
 Things were becoming desperate. Putting the body of Dr. 
 Livingstone and all their goods and chattels in one hut, they 
 charged out of the town, and fired on the assailants, killing 
 two and wounding several others. Fearing that they would 
 only gather together in the other remaining villages and 
 renew the attack at night, the men carried these quickly one
 
 430 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 by one and subsequently burnt six others which were built 
 on the same side of the river; then crossing over, they 
 tired on the canoes which were speeding towards the deep 
 water of Bangweolo, through the channel of the Lopupussi, 
 with disastrous results to the fugitive people. 
 
 Returning to the town, all was made safe for the night. 
 By the fortunes of war, sheep, goats, fowls, and an immense 
 quantity of food fell into their hands ; and they remained 
 for a week to recruit. Once or twice they found men 
 approaching at night to throw fire on the roofs of the huts 
 from outside, but with this exception they were not inter- 
 fered with. On the last day but one, a man approached and 
 called to them at the top of his voice not to set fire to the 
 chief's town (it was his that they occupied) ; for the bad son 
 had brought all this upon them ; he added that the old man 
 had been overruled, and they were sorry enough for his 
 bad conduct. 
 
 Listening to the account given of this occurrence, one can- 
 not but lament the loss of life and the whole circumstances 
 of the fight. Whilst on the one hand we may imagine that 
 the loss of a cool, conciliatory, brave leader was here felt in 
 a grave degree, we must also see that it was known far and 
 wide that this very loss was now a great weakness to his 
 followers. There is no surer sign of mischief in Africa than 
 these trumpery charges of bewitching houses by placing 
 things on them : some such over-strained accusation is gen- 
 erally set in the front rank when other difficulties are to 
 come: drunkenness is pretty much the same thing in all 
 parts of the world, and gathers misery around it as easily in 
 an African village as in an English city. Had the cortege 
 submitted to extortion and insult, they felt that their night 
 by the river would have been a precarious one even if they 
 had been in a humor to sleep in a swamp when a town was 
 at hand. These things gave occasion to them to resort to 
 force. The desperate nature of their whole enterprise in 
 starting for Zanzibar perhaps had accumulated its own 
 stock of determination, and now it found vent under evil
 
 IN THE SWAMPS WABISA WELCOME. 431 
 
 provocation. If there is room for any other feeling than 
 regret, it lies in the fact that, on mature consideration and 
 in sober moments, the people who suffered, cast the real 
 blame on the right shoulders. 
 
 For the next three days after leaving Chawende's they 
 were still in the same inundated fringe of Bouga, which sur- 
 rounds the lake, and on each occasion had to camp at night- 
 fall wherever a resting-place could be found in the jungle, 
 reaching Chama's village on the fourth day. A delay of 
 forty-eight hours was necessary, as Susi's wife fell ill ; and 
 for the next few marches she was carried in a kitanda. They 
 met an Unyamwesi man here, who had come from Kumba- 
 kumba's town in the Wa Ussi district. He related to them 
 how on two occasions the Wanyamwesi had tried to carry 
 Chawende's town by assault, but had been repulsed both 
 times. It would seem that, with the strong footing these 
 invaders have in the country, armed as they are besides with 
 the much-dreaded guns, it can only be a matter of time 
 before the whole rule, such as it is, passes into the hands of 
 the new-comers. 
 
 The next night was spent in the open, before coming to 
 the scattered huts of Ngumbu's, where a motley group of 
 stragglers, for the most part Wabisa, were busy felling the 
 trees and clearing the land for cultivation. However, the 
 little community gave them a welcome, in spite of the wide- 
 spread report of the fighting at Chawende's, and dancing 
 and drumming were kept up till morning. 
 
 One more night was passed in the plain, and they reached 
 a tributary of the Lopupussi River, called the M'Pamba ; it 
 is a considerable stream, and takes one up to the chest in 
 crossing. They now drew near to Chiwaie's town, which 
 they describe as a very strong place, fortified with a stockade 
 and ditch. Shortly before reaching it, some villagers tried 
 to pick a quarrel with them for carrying flags. It was their 
 invariable custom to make the drummer-boy, Majwara, 
 march at their head, whilst the Union Jack and the red 
 colors of Zanzibar were carried in a foremost place in the 
 x
 
 432 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 line. Fortunately a chief of some importance came up and 
 stopped the discussion, or there might have been more mis- 
 chief, for the men were in no temper to lower their flag, 
 knowing their own strength pretty well by this time. 
 Making their settlement close to Chiwaie's, they met 
 with much kindness, and were visited by crowds of the 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Three days' journey brought them to Chiwaie's uncle's 
 village ; sleeping two nights in the jungle they made Chun- 
 gu's, and in another day's march found themselves, to their 
 great delight, at Kapesha's. They knew their road from 
 this point, for on the southern route with Dr. Livingstone 
 they had stopped here, and could therefore take up the path 
 that leads to Tanganyika. Hitherto their course had been 
 easterly, with a little northing, but now they turned their 
 backs to the lake, which they had held on the right-hand 
 since crossing the Luapula, and struck almost north. 
 
 From Kapesha's to Lake Bangweolo is a three days' 
 march as the crow flies, for a man carrying a burden. 
 They saw a large quantity of iron and copper wire being 
 made here by a party of "Wanyamwesi. The process is as 
 follows : A heavy piece of iron, with a funnel-shaped hole 
 in it, is firmly fixed in the fork of a tree. A fine rod is then 
 thrust into it, and a line attached to the first few inches 
 which can be* coaxed through. A number of men haul 
 on this line, singing and dancing in tune, and thus it is 
 drawn through the first drill ; it is subsequently passed 
 through others to render it still finer, and excellent wire is 
 the result. 
 
 Leaving Kapesha they went through many of the villages 
 already enumerated in Dr. Livingstone's Diary. Chama's 
 people came to see them as they passed by him, and after 
 some mutterings and growlings Casongo gave them leave to 
 buy food at his town. Beaching Chama's head-quarters 
 they camped outside, and received a civil message, telling 
 them to convey his orders to the people on the banks of the 
 Kalongwesi that the travelers must be ferried safely across.
 
 AT KUMBAKUMBA'S TOWN. 433 
 
 At last Kumbakumba's town came in sight. Already the 
 large district of Itawa has tacitly allowed itself to be put 
 under the harrow by this ruffianly Zanzibar Arab. A small 
 detachment was sent off to try and gain tidings of one of the 
 Nassick boys, John, who had mysteriously disappeared a day 
 or two previously on the march. At the time no great 
 apprehensions were felt, but as he did not turn up, the grass 
 was set on fire in order that he might see the smoke if he had 
 wandered, and guns were fired. Some think he purposely 
 went off rather than carry a load any further ; whilst others 
 fear he may have been killed. Certain it is that after a five 
 days' search in all directions no tidings could be gained either 
 here or at Chama's, and nothing more was heard of the poor 
 fellow. 
 
 The talk was still about the break up of Casembe's power, 
 for it will be recollected that Kumbakumba and Pemba 
 Motu had killed him a short time before ; but by far the 
 most interesting news that reached them was that a party of 
 Englishmen, headed by Dr. Livingstone's son, on their way 
 to relieve his father, had been seen at Bagamoyo some months 
 previously. The chief showed them every kindness during 
 their five days' rest. 
 
 Marching was now much easier, and soon the steep descent 
 to the lake lay before them, and they came to Kasakalawe's. 
 Here it was that the Doctor had passed weary months of 
 illness on his first approach to Tanganyika in previous years. 
 So they journeyed on day by day till the southern end of the 
 lake was rounded. 
 
 The previous experience .-f the difficult route along the 
 heights bordering on Tangan\ v made them determine to 
 give the lake a wide berth this time, -ind for this purpose 
 they held well to the eastward, passing a number of small 
 deserted villages, in one of which they camped nearly every 
 night. This road across the plain seems incomparably the 
 best. No difficulty whatever was experienced, and one 
 cannot but lament the toil and weariness which Dr. Living- 
 stone endured whilst holding a course close to Tanganyika.
 
 4:34: LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 The chief feature after leaving this point was a three days' 
 march over Lambalamfipa, an abrupt mountain range, which 
 crosses the country east and west, and attains, it would seem, 
 an altitude of some 4,000 feet. Looking down on the plain 
 from its highest passes a vast lake appears to stretch away 
 in front towards the north, but on descending this resolves 
 itself into a glittering plain, for the most part covered with 
 saline incrustations. The path lay directly across this. The 
 difficulties they had anticipated had no real existence, for small 
 villages were found, and water was not scarce, although 
 brackish. The first demand for toll was made near here, 
 but the headman allowed them to pass for fourteen strings 
 of beads. Susi says that this plain literally swarms with 
 herds of game of all kinds : giraffe and zebra were particu- 
 larly abundant, and lions reveled in such good quarters. 
 The settlements they came to belonged chiefly to elephant 
 hunters. Farijala and Muanyasere did well with the buffalo, 
 and plenty of beef came into camp. 
 
 Just as they came to the Likwa, a long string of men was 
 seen on the opposite side filing down to the water, and being 
 uncertain of their intentions, precautions were quickly taken 
 to insure the safety of the baggage. Dividing themselves 
 into three parties, the first detachment went across to meet 
 the strangers, carrying the Arab flag in front. Chumah 
 headed another band at a little distance in the rear of these, 
 whilst Susi and a few more crouched in the jungle, with the 
 body concealed in a roughly-made hut. Their fears, how- 
 ever, were needless : it turned out to be a caravan bound for 
 Fipa to hunt elephants and buy ivory and slaves. The new 
 arrivals told them that they had come straight through 
 Unyanyembe from Bagamoyo, on the coast, and that the 
 Doctor's death had been reported there by natives of Fipa. 
 
 With no small satisfaction, the men learnt from the 
 outward-bound caravan that the previous story was a true 
 one, and they were assured that Dr. Livingstone's son with 
 two Englishmen and a quantity of goods had already reached 
 Unyanyembe.
 
 COURIERS SENT ON AHEAD. 4.35 
 
 Petty tolls were levied on them. Kampama's deputy 
 required four dotis, and an additional tax of six was paid to 
 the chief of the Kanongo when his town was reached. 
 
 Arriving at Baula, Jacob Wainwright, the scribe of the 
 party, was commissioned to write an account of the distress- 
 ing circumstances of the Doctor's death, and Chumah, taking 
 three men with him, pressed on to deliver it to the English 
 party in person. The rest of the cortege followed them 
 through the jungle to Chilunda's village. On the outskirts 
 they came across a number of Wagogo hunting elephants 
 with dogs and spears, but although they were well treated 
 by them, and received presents of honey and food, they 
 thought it better to keep these men in ignorance of the fact 
 that they were in charge of the dead body of their master. 
 
 20rfA October, 1873. We will here run on ahead with 
 Chumah on his way to communicate with the new arrivals. 
 He reached the Arab settlement without let or hindrance. 
 Lieut. Cameron was quickly put in possession of the main 
 facts of Dr. Livingstone's death by reading Jacob's letter, 
 and Chumah was questioned concerning it in the presence of 
 Dr. Dillon and Lieut. Murphy. It was a disappointment to 
 find that the reported arrival of Mr. Oswell Livingstone was 
 entirely erroneous ; but Lieut. Cameron showed the wayworn 
 men every kindness. Chumah rested one day before setting 
 out to relieve his comrades to whom he had arranged to 
 make his way as soon as possible. Lieut. Cameron expressed 
 a fear that it would not be safe for him to carry the cloth 
 he was willing to furnish them with, if he had not a stronger 
 convoy, as he himself had suffered too sorely from terrified 
 bearers on his way thither: but the young fellows were 
 pretty well acquainted with native marauders by this time, 
 and set off without apprehension.
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 CONTINUATION OF THE NAKRATIVE. 
 (AEKIVAL AT UNYANYEMBE THE MAKCH TO THE COAST.) 
 
 AND now the greater part of their task is over. The 
 weather-beaten company wind their way into the well- 
 known settlement of Kwihara. A host of Arabs and their 
 attendant slaves meet them as they sorrowfully take their 
 charge to the same Tembe in which the " weary waiting " 
 was endured before, and then they submit to the systematic 
 questioning which the native traveler is so well able to 
 sustain. 
 
 News in abundance was offered in return. The porters 
 of the Livingstone East-Coast Aid Expedition had plenty to 
 relate to the porters sent by Mr. Stanley. Mirambo's war 
 dragged on its length, and matters had changed very little 
 since they were there before, either for better or for worse. 
 They found the English officers extremely short of goods ; 
 but Lieut. Cameron, no doubt with the object of his Expedi- 
 tion full in view, very properly felt it a first duty to relieve 
 the wants of the party that had performed this Herculean 
 feat of bringing the body of the traveler he had been sent 
 o relieve, together with every article belonging to him at 
 the time of his death, as far as this main road to the coast. 
 
 In talking to the men about their intentions, Lieut. Cam- 
 eron had serious doubts whether the risk of taking the body 
 of Dr. Livingstone through the Ugogo country ought to be 
 run. It very naturally occurred to him that Dr. Livingstone 
 might have ielt a wish during lite to be buried in the same 
 land in which the remains of his wife lay, for it will be
 
 THE HALT AT UXYANYEMBE. 4.37 
 
 remembered that the grave of Mrs. Livingstone is at Shu- 
 panga, on the Zambesi. All this was put before the men, 
 but they steadily adhered to their first conviction that it 
 was right at all risks to attempt to bear their master home, 
 and therefore they were no longer urged to bury him at 
 Kwihara. 
 
 To the new comers it was of great interest to examine the 
 boxes which the men had conveyed from Bangweolo. As 
 we have seen, they had carefully packed up everything at 
 Chitambo's books, instruments, clothes, and all which would 
 bear special interest in time to come from having been 
 associated with Livingstone in his last hours. 
 
 It cannot be conceded for a moment that these poor 
 fellows would have been right in forbidding this examination, 
 when we consider the relative position in which natives and 
 English officers must always stand to each other ; but it is a 
 source of regret to relate that the chief part of Livingstone's 
 instruments were taken out of the packages and appro- 
 priated for future purposes. The instruments with which 
 all his observations had been made throughout a series of 
 discoveries extending over seven years aneroid barometers, 
 compasses, thermometers, the sextant and other things, have 
 gone on a new series of travels, to incur innumerable 
 risks of loss, whilst one only of his thermometers comes to 
 hand. 
 
 We could well have wished these instruments safe in 
 England with the small remnant of Livingstone's personal 
 property, which was allowed to be shipped from Zanzibar. 
 
 The Doctor had deposited four bales of cloth as a reserve 
 stock with the Arabs, and these were immediately forthcoming 
 for the march down. 
 
 The termination here of the ill-fated Expedition need not 
 be commented upon. One can only trust that Lieut. Cam- 
 eron may be at liberty to pursue his separate investigations 
 in the interior under more favorable auspices. Ill-health 
 had stuck persistently to the party, and all the officers were 
 Buffering from the various forms of fever. Lieut. Cameron
 
 438 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 gave the men to understand that it was agreed Lieut. Mur- 
 phy should return to Zanzibar, and asked if they could attach 
 his party to their march ; if so, the men who acted as carriers 
 should receive 6 dollars a man for their services. This was 
 agreed to. 
 
 At length the start was effected, and Dr. Dillon likewise 
 quitted the Expedition to return to the coast. It was neces- 
 sary to stop after the first day's march, for a long halt ; for 
 one of the women was unable to travel, they found, and 
 progress was delayed till she, the wife of Chowpere, could 
 resume the journey. There seem to have been some serious 
 misunderstandings between the leaders of Dr. Livingstone's 
 party, and Lieut. Murphy soon after setting out, which 
 turned mainly on the subject of beginning the day's march. 
 The former, trained in the old discipline of their master, laid 
 stress on the necessity of very early rising to avoid the heat 
 of the day, and perhaps pointed out more bluntly than 
 pleasantly that if the Englishmen wanted to improve their 
 health, they had better do so too. However, to a certain 
 extent, this was avoided by the two companies pleasing 
 themselves. 
 
 Making an early start, the body was carried to Kasekera, 
 by Susi's party where, from an evident disinclination to 
 receive it into the village, an encampment was made outside. 
 A consultation now became necessary. There was no dis- 
 guising the fact that, if they kept along the main road, 
 intelligence would precede them concerning that in which 
 they were engaged, stirring up certain hostility and jeopard- 
 izing the most precious charge they had. A plan was quickly 
 hit upon. Unobserved, the men removed the corpse of the 
 deceased explorer from the package in which it had hitherto 
 been conveyed, and. buried the bark case in the hut in the 
 thicket around the village in which they had placed it. The 
 object now was to throw the villagers off their guard, by 
 making believe that they had relinquished the attempt to 
 carry the body to Zanzibar. They feigned that they had 
 abandoned their task having changed their minds and that
 
 A CLEVER STRATAGEM. 439 
 
 it must be sent back to Unyanyembe to be buried there. 
 In the meantime the corpse of necessity had to be concealed 
 in the smallest space possible, if they were actually to convey 
 it secretly for the future ; this was quickly managed. 
 
 Susi and Chumah went into the wood and stripped off a 
 fresh length of bark from an N'gombe tree; in this the 
 remains, conveniently prepared as to length, were placed, 
 the whole being surrounded with calico in such a manner as 
 to appear like an ordinary traveling bale, which was then 
 deposited with the rest of the goods. They next proceeded 
 to gather a fagot of mapira-stalks, cutting them in lengths of' 
 six feet or so, and swathing them round with cloth to imitate 
 a dead body about to be buried. This done, a paper, folded 
 so as to represent a letter, was duly placed in a cleft stick, 
 according to the native letter-carrier's custom, and six trust- 
 worthy men were told off ostensibly to go with the corpse to 
 Unyanyembe. "With due solemnity the men set out; the 
 villagers were only too thankful to see it, and no one sus- 
 pected the ruse. It was near sundown. The bearers of 
 the package held on their way, till fairly beyond all chance 
 of detection, and then began to dispose of their load. The 
 mapira-sticks were thrown one by one far away into the 
 jungle, and when all were disposed of, the wrappings were 
 cunningly got rid of in the same way. Going further on, 
 first one man, and then another, sprung clear from the path 
 into the long grass, to leave no trace of footsteps, and the 
 whole party returned by different ways to their companions, 
 who had been anxiously awaiting them during the night. 
 No one could detect the real nature of the ordinary-looking 
 bale which, henceforth, was guarded with no relaxed 
 vigilance, and eventually disclosed the bark coffin and wrap- 
 pings, containing Dr. Livingstone's body, on the arrival at 
 Bagamoyo. And now, devoid of fear, the people of Kasekera 
 asked them all to come and take up their quarters in the 
 town. 
 
 But a dreadful event was about to recall to their minds 
 how many fall victims to African disease !
 
 440 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Dr. Dillon now came on to Kasekera suffering much from 
 dysentery a few hours more, and he shot himself in his 
 tent by means of a loaded rifle. 
 
 Those who knew the brave and generous spirit in which 
 this hard-working volunteer set out with Lieut. Cameron, 
 fully hoping to relieve Dr. Livingstone, will feel that he 
 ended his life by an act alien indeed to his whole nature. 
 The malaria imbibed during their stay at Unyanyembe 
 laid upon him the severest form of fever, accompanied by 
 delirium, under which he at length succumbed in one of its 
 violent paroxysms. His remains are interred at Kasekera. 
 
 We must follow Susi's troop through a not altogether 
 eventless journey to the sea. Some days afterwards, as 
 they wended their way through a rocky place, a little girl 
 in their train, named Losi, met her death in a shocking 
 way. It appears that the poor child was carrying a water- 
 jar on her head in the file of people, when an enormous 
 snake dashed across the path, deliberately struck her in 
 the thigh, and made for a hole in the jungle close at hand. 
 This work of a moment was sufficient, for the poor girl fell 
 mortally wounded. She was carried forward, and all. means 
 at hand were applied, but in ten minutes the last symptom 
 (foaming at the mouth) set in, and she ceased to breathe. 
 
 Here is a well-authenticated instance which goes far to 
 prove the truth of an assertion made to travelers in many 
 parts of Africa. The natives protest that one species of snake 
 will deliberately chase and overtake his victim with lightning 
 speed, and so dreadfully dangerous is it, both from the 
 activity of its poison and its vicious propensities, that it is 
 perilous to approach its quarters. Most singular to relate, 
 an Arab came to some of the men after their arrival at 
 Zanzibar and told them that he had just come by the 
 Unyanyembe road, and that whilst passing the identical spot 
 where this disaster occurred, one of the men was attacked by 
 the same snake, with precisely the same results ; in fact, when 
 looking for a place in which to bury him they saw the grave 
 of Losi, and the two lie side by side.
 
 LIVINGSTONE'S FOLLOWERS AT ZANZIBAR. 
 
 February, 1874. No further incident occurred worthy of 
 special notice At last the coast town of Bagamoyo came in 
 sight, and before many hours were over, one of Her Majesty's 
 cruisers conveyed the Acting Consul, Captain Prideaux, 
 from Zanzibar to the spot which the cortege had reached. 
 Arrangements were quickly made for transporting the 
 remains of Dr. Livingstone to the Island some thirty miles 
 distant, and then it became perhaps rather too painfully 
 plain to the men that their task was finished. . 
 
 One word on a subject which will commend itself to most 
 before we close this long eventful history. 
 
 "We saw what a train of Indian Sepoys, Johanna men, 
 Nassick boys, and Shupango canoe-men, accompanied Dr. 
 Livingstone when he started from Zanzibar in 1866 to enter 
 upon his last discoveries : of all these, five only could answer 
 to the roll-call as they handed over the dead body of their 
 leader to his countrymen on the shore whither they had 
 returned, and this after eight years' desperate service. 
 
 Once more we repeat the names of these men. Susi, and 
 James Chumah have been sufficiently prominent through- 
 out hardly so perhaps has Amoda, their comrade ever since 
 the Zambesi days of 1864: then we have Abram and 
 Mabruki, each with service to show from the time he left the 
 Nassick College with the Doctor in 1865. Nor must we 
 forget Ntoaeka and Halima, the two native girls of whom we 
 have heard such a good character : they cast in their lot 
 with the wanderers in Manyuema. It does seem strange 
 to hear the men say that no sooner did they arrive at their 
 journey's end than they were so far frowned out of notice, 
 that not so much as a passage to the Island was offered 
 them when their burden was borne away. "We must hope 
 that it is not too late even for the sake of consistency 
 to put it on record that whoever assisted Livingstone, 
 whether white or black, has not been overlooked in Eng- 
 land. Surely those with whom he spent his last years must 
 not pass away into Africa again unrewarded, and lost to 
 sight.
 
 442 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. 
 
 Yes, a very great deal is owing to these five men, and 
 we say it emphatically. If the nation has gratified a 
 reasonable wish in learning all that concerns the last days 
 on earth of a truly noble countryman and his wonderful 
 enterprise, the means of doing so could never have been 
 placed at our disposal but for the ready willingness which 
 made Susi and Chumah determine, if possible, to render 
 an account to some of those whom they had known as 
 their master's old companions. If the Geographer finds 
 before him new facts, new discoveries, new theories, as 
 Livingstone alone could record them, it is right and proper 
 that he should feel the part these men have played in 
 furnishing him with such valuable matter. For we repeat 
 that nothing but such leadership and staunchness as that 
 which organized the march home from Ilala, and distin- 
 guished it throughout, could have brought Livingstone's 
 bones to our land or his last notes and maps to the outer 
 world. To none does the feat seem so marvelous as to those 
 who know Africa and the difficulties which must have beset 
 both the first and the last in the enterprise. Thus in his 
 death, not less than in his life, David Livingstone bore 
 testimony to that goodwill and kindliness which exists in 
 the heart of the African.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 DR. LIVINGSTONE'S FUNERAL OBSEQUIES. 
 
 AS Mr. Waller's narrative closes at Zanzibar, a brief 
 account of the funeral of Dr. Livingstone is appended 
 to this American Edition. 
 
 From Zanzibar the remains of Dr. Livingstone were sent 1 
 to Aden, Arabia ,where they were transferred to the English 
 mail steamer " Malwa," and in charge of Arthur Young of 
 Zanzibar and Jacob Wainwright, started for England, March 
 23d, 1874. Thomas Livingstone, a mercantile agent in Egypt 
 and the eldest son of the explorer, joined the ship at Alexan- 
 dria. The " Malwa " arrived at Southampton, England, April 
 15th, 1874, where fifty thousand people were assembled to 
 witness the landing. From Southampton the body was 
 conveyed by railroad to London, where the members of the 
 Royal Geographical Society took it to their house. Here an 
 examination of the body was made, and it was proved to be 
 that of Dr. Livingstone beyond doubt. The left arm bone 
 showed the old fracture, caused by the bite of a lioness thirty 
 years before, which had often been noticed as a mark of his 
 indentity. The body was transferred from the rough Zanzi- 
 bar coffin to one of English oak, bearing the inscription : 
 
 DAVID LIVINGSTONE, 
 Born at Blantyre, Lanarkshire, Scotland, 
 
 March 19th, 1813. 
 Died at Ilala, Central Africa, 
 
 May 4th, 1873. 
 Wreaths of flowers to deck the bier were sent in, inclnd-
 
 446 HONORS TO THE DEAD EXPLORER. 
 
 ing one inscribed, " A tribute of respect and admiration from 
 Queen Victoria." The funeral which took place April 18th, 
 is said to have been the grandest ever witnessed during the 
 present generation. It was no doubt a fit tribute of the Eng- 
 lish nation to Dr. Livingstone's memory, but hardly in keep- 
 ing with the character of one so simple in his ways and 
 tastes ; he, doubtless, would have preferred a grave beside 
 that of his wife, on the banks of the Zambesi. In accordance 
 with general desire and expectation he was buried in West- 
 minster Abbey ; and it will be long ere there is received 
 within its walls one worthier to rest among the greatest 
 men of the British Islands. 
 
 " Laid among kings ! To be a king is duly 
 To do great things that else are left undone I 
 
 His life was one such deed ; then reigned he truly? 
 Yes, for he knit the hearts of men in one. 
 
 Laid among heroes ! All unquestioned wearing 
 
 The title won by all that wins the name. 
 Laid among heroes ; for his ensign bearing 
 
 The lion's tooth-marks on his wasted frame." 
 
 The name and achievements of the great traveler were a 
 talisman that gathered within the walls of the venerable 
 Abbey a throng of mourners as unique and diverse as was 
 ever collected around an open grave. Amid that distinguished 
 assemblage, besides his immediate relatives, were statesmen 
 who co-operated in realizing his philanthropic aims ; explorers 
 who had shared with him the perils of the African wilds ; 
 missionaries who had made light of suffering and privation in 
 seeking to Christianize the aboriginal races ; hunters who 
 had been his close companions in the solitude of the bush ; 
 clergymen who, with him, sought to establish a Zambesi 
 mission ; nonconformist ministers and laymen with whom he 
 was identified in the earlier part of his career ; and a miscel- 
 laneous host of admirers, who represented the general senti- 
 ment of the nation. 
 
 The pall-bearers were Sir T. Steele, W. Oswell, W. F. 
 Webb all old lion hunters and former comrades of Dr.
 
 LIVINGSTONE'S GRAVE IN WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 447 
 
 Livingstone in Africa Dr. Kirk, Rev. Horace "Waller, E. D. 
 Young commander of the first relief expedition, Henry M. 
 Stanley and Jacob Wainwright. Among the relatives pres- 
 ent were the veteran missionary Rev. Dr. Moffat, Dr. 
 Livingstone's two sons and two daughters, and the widow of 
 Rev. Charles Livingstone, the brother of Dr. Livingstone 
 and his companion on the Zambesi Expedition. Charles 
 Livingstone, who had long been English Consul on the West 
 Coast of Africa, died October 28th, 1873, on board the 
 homeward-bound English Steamer " Ethiopia." He and his 
 wife were educated at Oberlin, Ohio, and are remembered 
 by many former students of Oberlin College. Mrs. Living- 
 stone and her children were for many years residents of 
 Boston, Massachusetts. 
 
 A black marble tombstone was subsequently laid over the 
 grave of the great Traveler. The stone bears an inscription 
 in gold letters as follows : 
 
 BROUGHT BT FAITHFT7L HANDB 
 
 OVER LAND AND SEA, 
 
 BERK BESTS 
 
 DAVID LIVINGSTONE, 
 
 MISSIONARY, TRAVELER, PHILANTHROPIST, 
 
 BORN, MARCH 19, 1813, 
 AT BLANTYRK, LANARKSHIRE, 
 
 DIED, MAY 1, 1873, 
 AT CHITAMBO'S VILLAGE, ILALA. 
 
 FOB THIRTY YEARS HIS LIFE WAS SPENT IN UNWEARIED EFFOBT 
 
 TO EVANGELIZE THE NATIVE RACES, TO EXPLORE THJ6 
 
 UNDISCOVERED SECRETS, AND ABOLISH THE 
 
 DESOLATING SLAVE-TRADE OF 
 
 CENTRAL AFRICA, 
 
 WHERE WITH HIS LAST WORDS HE WROTE : 
 "AIL I CAN ADD IN MY LONELINESS IS, MAY HEAVEN'S 
 
 RICH BLESSING COME DOWN ON 
 
 EVERT ONE AMERICAN, ENGLISH, OR TURK WHO WILL HELP TO 
 HEAL THIS OPEN SORE OF THE WORLD."* 
 
 On the right hand edge of the stone are the lines : 
 
 Tantus amor veri Nihil est quod noscere malim, 
 Quam Fluvii causas per eaecula tanta latcntes. 
 
 And on the left hand edge is the following text : 
 
 Other sheep I have -which are not of this fold ; 
 Them also I must bring and they shall hear my voice. 
 
 * See Page 383.
 
 448 LIVINGSTONE'S GRAVE IN WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 When in after times the passing stranger shall look on Dr. 
 Livingstone's grave, and shall be told that it contains the 
 bones of a wayfaring man who perished in the remote wilds 
 of Africa, that English grave itself will be felt to be a 
 grander and more touching memento of the philanthropic 
 missionary than any monument that can be raised in his 
 honor ; because it will be, as it were, the token of the plighted 
 faith and awe-struck veneration which inspired the reverent 
 care, alike of heathen Mussulman and Christian, around the 
 solitary death-bed ; because it shows, by the most indisput- 
 able tokens, the devotion which must have sustained the 
 small band of African youths in their arduous enterprise of 
 carrying, through six long months, in spite of all the obstacles 
 of climate, all the inborn prejudices of ancient superstition, 
 all the machinations of hostile tribes, the last relics of their 
 departed master. The devoted heroism of his followers was 
 worthy of the chief they served.
 
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 APR 3 1977 
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