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 The Author. Missionary from the Society and Sandwich Islands.
 
 The Advertiser Historical Series 
 No. 2 
 
 A Narrative of a Tour through Hawaii, or 
 
 Owhyhee; with remarks on the History, 
 
 Traditions, Manners, Customs and 
 
 Language of the Inhabitants 
 
 of the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 By William Ellis 
 
 Aissionary from the Society and Sandwich Islands 
 (Reprint of the London 1827 Edition) 
 
 With an Introduction 
 
 By Lorrin A. Thurston 
 
 Hawaiian Gazette Co., Ltd. 
 Honolulu, Hawaii, 1917
 
 3 
 
 INTRODUCTION BY LORRIN A. THURSTON 
 
 There has recently been a growing demand, both on the part of 
 permanent residents of and visitors to Hawaii, for specific informa- 
 tion concerning the history of Hawaii, more particularly of the period 
 of transition from the ancient feudal system when the King and 
 Chiefs had supreme and absolute power of life and death and the 
 common people had no rights of person or property, to the era when 
 constitutional guaranty of protection and the laws of civilization be- 
 came established. 
 
 A comprehensive history of Hawaii has yet to be written. Its 
 compilation will involve a vast amount of investigation and study, as 
 the material is scattered through governmental and court records, pri- 
 vate correspondence and journals, newspapers and magazine articles; 
 while many matters, especially regarding the events leading up to an- 
 nexation, rest in the personal and unwritten knowledge of leading 
 participants. 
 
 Alexander's History, written for public school purposes, the best 
 Hawaiian history now available, is necessarily condensed. 
 
 Other books bearing upon various phases of Hawaiian life, were 
 issued in limited editions, and moreover, are mostly out of print. 
 
 Under these circumstances, it has been decided by the Hawaiian 
 Gazette Co., Ltd., publishers of the Pacific Commercial Advertiser, to 
 meet the public desire for information by reprinting the more valuable 
 of the out-of-print books and by collecting and publishing the per- 
 sonal memoirs, reminiscences and writings of some of the older resi- 
 dents of Hawaii, who are able to give first-hand evidence of what they 
 have seen and heard, or to relate the traditions and evidence of what 
 had previously transpired, obtained by them from those who have 
 gone before. 
 
 In pursuance of this decision the "Reminiscences of Old Hawaii," 
 by Sereno Edwards Bishop, have been published in The Advertiser, 
 and also published in book form, as "No. 1 of The Advertiser His- 
 torical Series." 
 
 This has been followed by the like publication in The Advertiser 
 of "A Tour Through Hawaii," with incidental remarks by Rev. Wil- 
 liam Ellis, an English Missionary to the South Pacific Islands, who 
 visited Hawaii in 1822 and 1823 and lived here for about two years. 
 This volume is the publication of the "Tour" in book form. 
 
 The following is a resume of the facts incident to the visit of Mr. 
 Ellis to Hawaii, and of the publication of the "Journal" and the 
 several editions of the "Tour." 
 
 The extension of missionary effort to Hawaii, by the American 
 
 2* 79
 
 Board of Foreign Missions, in 1820, was preceded, in the South Pacific, 
 by the London Mission Society, who, in 179G despatched an expedition 
 to, and early in 1797 established mission settlements at the Marquesas, 
 Friendly and Society Islands. 
 
 These missionaries suffered great hardship, assaults upon them being 
 numerous and some were murdered. Owing to the frequent inter-tribal 
 wars, some of the stations were abandoned, and it was not until the 
 discouraging struggle had been carried on for fifteen years that a 
 change for the better took place; after which progress at some of the 
 stations was rapid. 
 
 In 1822, a deputation from the home society visited the English 
 Missions, and, in company with Rev. William Ellis, who had for six 
 years been a missionary at the Society Islands, and two natives, 
 extended their observations to Hawaii, where they intended to spend 
 a few weeks. Owing to the exigencies of transportation, their stay 
 was extended for four months. The American missionaries at Hawaii 
 and the Hawaiian chiefs were so much pleased with Mr. Ellis and his 
 native assistants, that they were invited to remain permanently, 
 which invitation was accepted. Mr. Ellis returned to Huahine for 
 his family, arriving back in Hawaii in February, 1823. 
 
 The American Mission had, at that time, established permanent sta- 
 tions on Oahu and Kauai only. It was thereupon decided that an 
 exploration of the Island of Hawaii should be made, for the purpose 
 of learning more of the country and people, with a view to establish- 
 ing mission stations there. Mr. Ellis and three of the American mis- 
 sionaries, Asa Thurston, Artemas Bishop and Joseph Goodrich, were 
 despatched for the purpose, in June, 1823, landing at Kailua and 
 spending two months in making the circuit of the island. So far as 
 the records show, they were the first white men to accomplish this, 
 being also the first white men to visit the volcano of Kilauea. 
 
 Upon the return of the party to Honolulu, a joint journal of their 
 journey and observations was prepared. A copy of this, together with 
 a report by the American missionaries, was printed in Boston in 1825. 
 
 Mr. Ellis returned to England in 182-1 and after rewriting the jour- 
 nal in the form of a personal narrative, and adding thereto a large 
 number of his own observations, together with comparisons of life and 
 customs in Hawaii with those in the Society Islands, published five 
 editions in London between 1825 and 1828. Later, in 1S42, the same 
 material, as a whole, was published by him, in connection with other 
 material concerning the South Sea Islands, under the title of "Poly- 
 nesian Researches." This also went through several editions. 
 
 A number of these many editions differ more or less from each 
 other. 
 
 For the purposes of this publication, one of the English editions of
 
 1827 has been followed, there being added thereto the preface and 
 report of the American missionaries, from the American edition, and 
 illustrations from all of them. 
 
 The combination constitutes the clearest, most accurate and de- 
 tailed account extant, of the physical and social conditions existing in 
 Hawaii in 1823. 
 
 The information secured by Mr. Ellis from the natives concerning 
 a great number of subjects, and here recorded, also constitutes a 
 mine of information concerning Polynesian lore, which, but for him, 
 would have been lost or known in much less detail. 
 
 The poet, Coleridge, is reported to have stated that he considered 
 Ellis' "Tour Through Hawaii" to be the most interesting and in- 
 structive book of travel that he had ever read. 
 
 All of the many editions of this book have been out of print for 
 many years, and are only to be found in a few libraries, or at rare 
 intervals second-hand and at prohibitory prices in a few book stores. 
 
 The sub-headings throughout the book are inserted by myself as a 
 convenience in referring to the contents. Some of the longer para- 
 graphs have been broken into shorter ones, but no change has other- 
 wise been made. I have also added an index. 
 
 Honolulu, November 11, 1916.
 
 6 
 PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION OF 1825. 
 
 In the year 1819, Tamehameha, king of the Sandwich Islands, died, 
 and his son Rihoriho succeeded to his dominions; and immediately 
 afterwards, the system of idolatry, so far' as it was connected with 
 the government, was abolished. This measure seems to have been 
 owing to three causes: First, a desire on the part of the king to 
 improve the condition of his wives, who, in common with all the 
 other females of the islands, were subject to many painful incon- 
 veniences from the operation of the tabu; secondly, the advice of 
 foreigners, and of some of the more intelligent chiefs; and thirdly, 
 and principally, the reports of what had been done by Pomare, in 
 the Society Islands. A war, which this act occasioned, was suppressed 
 by a decisive battle described in this volume. At this time, and be- 
 fore intelligence of the death of Tamehameha reached the United 
 States, missionaries, sent forth by the American Board of Commis- 
 sioners for Foreign Missions, were on their way to the islands, where 
 they arrived, a few months afterwards, with the Gospel of Jesus 
 Christ. 
 
 SETTLEMENT OF MISSIONARIES IN HAWAII. 
 
 After some hesitation on the part of the rulers of the islands, the 
 missionaries, so opportunely arrived, were allowed to remain and com- 
 mence their work. Some took up their abode on Hawaii, where the 
 king then resided; others went to Tauai, under the patronage of 
 Taumuarii, king of that island; but the main body settled at Hono- 
 ruru, on the island of Oahu, where is the principal harbour for ship- 
 ping. This was in April, 1820. At the close of the year, the king 
 and the missionaries removed from Hawaii, and the latter joined 
 their brethren at Honoruru. 
 
 During the following year, some progress was made in settling the 
 orthography of the language, a task, which the great prevalence of 
 liquid sounds rendered extremely difficult. The alphabet adopted, was 
 that proposed by the Hon. John Pickering, of Salem, Mass., in his 
 "Essay on a Uniform Orthography for the Indian languages of North 
 America," published in the Memoirs of the American Academy of 
 Arts and Sciences; excepting that the Hawaiian language requires 
 a less number of letters than that alphabet contains. Every sound 
 has its appropriate sign; every word is spelled exactly as it is pro- 
 nounced; and thus the art of reading and writing the language, is 
 rendered to the natives simple and easy. A press being at the com- 
 mand of the missionaries, the first sheet of a Hawaiian spelling-book 
 was printed in the beginning of 1822. This work was soon in great 
 demand. Other works in the native language have since been pub- 
 lished.
 
 ARRIVAL OF REV. WILLIAM ELLIS. 
 
 In the spring of this year, the Eev. William Ellis, an English Mis- 
 sionary, who had resided several years at the Society Islands, came 
 to the Sandwich Islands, on his way to the Marquesas. He was accom- 
 panied by the Eev. Daniel Tyerman and George Bennet, Esq., two 
 gentlemen who had been sent by the London Missionary Society as 
 deputies to their missions in the South Seas; and, also, by two Tahi- 
 tian chiefs, who were sent, with their wives, by the church of Hua- 
 hine, as missionaries to the Marquesas. 
 
 This company having been detained at the Sandwich Islands for a 
 considerable period, and Mr. Ellis and the two Tahitians being almost 
 immediately able to use the Hawaiian language with facility, the 
 natives became so much interested in them, as to invite them to re- 
 main permanently at the Sandwich Islands. This invitation being 
 strongly seconded by the American Missionaries, was accepted. At 
 the close of the year, Mr. Ellis went to Huahine for his family, and 
 returned in the February following. 
 
 ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 In April, the mission received a further accession of strength by the 
 arrival of new labourers from the United States. This called for an 
 enlargement of operations. Two missionaries were sent to Maui, and, 
 as soon as circumstances would permit, arrangements were made for 
 surveying Hawaii, with a view to the judicious occupation of that 
 large and populous island. Mr. Ellis, the English missionary, the Eev. 
 Asa Thurston, the Eev. Charles S. Stewart, the Eev. Artemas Bishop, 
 and Mr. Joseph Goodrich, (a licensed preacher,) American mission- 
 aries, were selected for this purpose. 
 
 Mr. Stewart was detained from the service by ill health. The rest 
 commenced the tour of the island early in the summer of 1823, and 
 completed it in a little more than two months. The results of the 
 tour form the subject matter of this volume. 
 
 DEPARTURE OF KING TO ENGLAND. 
 
 A short time after the return of the Deputation from Hawaii, the 
 king, Eihoriho, embarked in a whaling ship for England. His object 
 seems to have been chiefly to increase his knowledge of the world. 
 Accompanied by his favourite queen, a chief, and some other native 
 attendants, he arrived in London early in the following summer; but, 
 in the course of a few weeks, both he and his wife sickened and 
 died. The remains of these two personages were sent back to the 
 islands in the Blonde, an English Frigate, commanded by Lord 
 Byron, brother (cousin — L. A. T.) to the poet; and upon their arrival,
 
 8 
 
 the funeral rites were performed, in a Christian manner, by their affec- 
 tionate and sorrowing people. A younger brother succeeds to the gov- 
 ernment, which seems to rest upon a solid basis. 
 
 The progress of the missionaries in attracting the attention of the 
 natives to religious instruction, and in teaching them to read and 
 write their own language, especially of late, has been truly surprising. 
 Schools, managed by natives themselves, have become quite numerous, 
 and are constantly increasing in number, popularity, and effect. 
 
 AUTHORSHIP OP JOURNAL. 
 
 The following Journal was drawn up by Mr. Ellis, from minutes 
 kept by himself, and by his associates on the tour, who subsequently 
 gave it their approbation. The Eeport of the Deputation, which 
 forms a convenient introduction to the main work, was written by 
 another hand. 
 
 The Appendix was prepared by the Assistant Secretary of the 
 Board of Foreign Missions, who performed the duties of an editor, 
 while the work was passing through the press: but, as those duties 
 were performed amidst numerous cares and frequent interruptions, it 
 will not be surprising if inaccuracies should exist.
 
 REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION. 
 
 To The Members and Patrons of the Sandwich Island Mission. 
 
 Brethren and Friends: — Having, by favour of Providence, per- 
 formed, in the period of ten weeks, the interesting service, for which 
 we were lately appointed, it is with no small satisfaction, that we 
 lay before you a brief outline of our proceedings. 
 
 AN APPRECIATION OF KUAKINI. 
 By sea and by land we have enjoyed the protection of God, and 
 the countenance and patronage of the king and chiefs. Especially 
 would we notice the kindness of Kuakini, the Governor of Hawaii, 
 more known in this country by the name of John Adams, who re- 
 ceived us with great hospitality, and freely lent his influence and 
 authority to aid us in the attainment of our immediate objects; and 
 with a view to the permanent establishment of a missionary station 
 there, has promptly commenced the erection of a chapel at Kairua 
 for the worship of Jehovah, whose rightful and supreme authority 
 he has publicly acknowledged. 
 
 We would early and devoutly acknowledge our obligations of grati- 
 tude to the Great Lord of the harvest, who has enabled us, without 
 opposition or material disaster, so fully to investigate the moral state, 
 and comparative claims, of that portion of our field of labour, and 
 so freely and frequently to proclaim to its perishing thousands the 
 unsearchable riches of Jesus Christ. While we have endeavored 
 steadily to pursue these grand objects of our enterprise with reference 
 to a permanent maintenance of the Gospel on that island, we have 
 been enabled to collect considerable information on a variety of sub- 
 jects, which, though of secondary moment in the missionary's account, 
 are, nevertheless, interesting and important; such as the natural 
 scenery, productions, geology, and curiosities; the traditionary legends, 
 superstitions, manners, customs, &c. 
 
 In the prosecution of our design to explore and enlighten the long 
 benighted Hawaii, we have ascended its lofty and majestic mountains, 
 entered its dark caverns, crossed its deep ravines, and traversed its 
 immense fields of rugged lava. We have stood with wonder on the 
 edge of its ancient craters, walked tremblingly along the brink of its 
 smoking chasms, gazed with admiration on its raging fires, and wit- 
 nessed, with no ordinary feelings of awe, the varied and sublime 
 phenomena of volcanic action, in all its imposing magnificence and 
 terrific grandeur. 
 
 We have witnessed, too, with sorrow, the appalling darkness, which 
 has hitherto over-spread the land; have wept over the miseries of its 
 untutored inhabitants; have sighed for their speedy emancipation
 
 10 
 
 from the bondage of iniquity; and through their fertile vales, barren 
 wastes, and clustering villages, have proclaimed the Lord Jesus 
 Christ, as the Hope and Deliverer of man. 
 
 COURSE OF THE EXPLORATION. 
 
 Commencing our tour at Kairua, on tho western shore of Hawaii, we 
 travelled to the south, the east, and the north; twice crossed the in- 
 terior in different parts; remained a night and a day at the great 
 volcano of Kirauea; visited all the principal settlements, both on the 
 coast, and in the interiour; spent a Sabbath in each of the five 
 large divisions of the island; and have endeavored to convince the 
 inhabitants, that the objects of the mission are benevolent and dis- 
 interested, intended to lead them to the enjoyment of the lights of 
 science, and the blessings of Christianity. 
 
 We have not forgotten the command of our Saviour, "As ye go, 
 preach;" and it has been our comfort, in obedience to that command, 
 to hold the cup of his salvation to the parched lips of those, who had 
 never tasted the heavenly draught, and whom we found most em- 
 phatically without hope and without God in the world. Strengthened 
 by the divine promise, ' ' Lo, I am with you alway, ' ' we have on our 
 tour preached in more than sixty different places, to collections of 
 people of from fifty to one thousand in number, and in most cases 
 have been heard with attention. 
 
 CENSUS AND CAUSES OF DECREASE OF POPULATION. 
 
 We have also carefully numbered the habitations of the natives, 
 and have estimated the inhabitants of Hawaii to be 85,000; a num- 
 ber much greater than the population of all the other islands of the 
 group; but far less than the estimate of its celebrated discoverer, and 
 of reputable subsequent voyagers. To contemplate the waste of 
 population here indicated, — whether we attribute it to the ravages of 
 war, whose restless spear is scarcely restrained by the approach of 
 the cross; to the desolating pestilence, which has more than once 
 swept through these isles; to the cruel superstition, which has but 
 recently abolished her immolating rights; to that most unnatural of 
 all crimes, that gain admittance to "the habitations of cruelty," in- 
 fanticide; or to the prevalence of vice, rendered doubly destructive 
 by foreign causes, — cannot but be deeply affecting to the feelings 
 of philanthropy. 
 
 The light of the Gospel has broken the gloom, which, like a long 
 and cheerless night, has, from time immemorial, rested on the hills and 
 vallies of Hawaii; and a jubilee has, we trust, dawned upon its miser- 
 able inhabitants.
 
 11 
 
 IDOLATRY RENOUNCED BUT SUPERSTITION REMAINS. 
 
 But though the chiefs have renounced their ancient idolatry, and 
 the priests no longer perform the mystic and bloody rites of the 
 heiau, (Temple), and though on the ruins of their temples, altars are 
 now erecting for the worship of the living God, yet the deep im- 
 pressions made in childhood, by the songs, legends, and horrid rites 
 connected with their long established superstitions, and the feelings 
 and habits cherished by them in subsequent life, are not, by the 
 simple proclamation of a king, or the resignation of a priest, to be 
 removed at once from the mind of the unenlightened Hawaiian, who, 
 in the sighing of the breeze, the gloom of night, the boding eclipse, 
 the meteor's glance, the lightning's flash, the thunder's roar, the 
 earthquake's shock, is accustomed to recognize the dreaded presence 
 of some unpropitious deity. Nor must we be surprised, if the former 
 views which the Hawaiian has been accustomed to entertain respect- 
 ing Pele, the goddess he supposes to preside over volcanoes, should 
 not at once be eradicated; as he is continually reminded of her power, 
 by almost every object that meets his eye, from the rude cliffs of 
 lava, against which the billows of the ocean dash, even to the lofty 
 craters, her ancient seat amid perpetual snows. Nor is it to be ex- 
 pected, that those who feel themselves to have been released from 
 the oppressive demands of their former religion, will, until they are 
 more enlightened, be in haste to adopt a substitute, which presents 
 imperious claims in direct opposition to all their unhallowed affec- 
 tions; especially since, while thus ignorant of the nature of Chris- 
 tianity, their recollections of the past must awaken fears of evil, 
 perhaps not less dreadful than those from which they have just 
 escaped. 
 
 PEOPLE OF A RECEPTIVE DISPOSITION. 
 
 But though we found the people generally ignorant of Jehovah and 
 indifferent to his worship, and many of them retaining their house- 
 hold gods, and cherishing a sort of veneration for the bones of their 
 chiefs, and relatives, yet not a few, when they heard of the love of 
 God in the gift of his Son, desired to be more fully instructed, and 
 "intreated that the word might be spoken to them again." 
 
 "The harvest is plenteous, but the labourers are few." Nine 
 preachers only are employed in the Sandwich Islands; and such is 
 the importance of the stations occupied in Oahu, Maui and Tauai, 
 (heretofore written Woahoo, Mowee and Atooi. — Ed.), that but four 
 at most can be spared for Hawaii, or one to every 21,000 inhabitants, 
 a number more than equal to the whole population of the Society 
 Islands, where twelve missionaries are advantageously employed. But 
 to furnish Hawaii even with one missionary to every 4,200 souls, six- 
 teen more than the mission can now assign to it, would be required.
 
 12 
 
 LOCATION OF MISSION STATIONS RECOMMENDED. 
 
 We are happy to state, that, on different parts of the island, there 
 are eight eligible stations, Kairua, Kearakekua, Honaunau, Honuapo, 
 Kaimu, Waiakea, Waipio, and Towaihae. These we earnestly recom- 
 mend for early and permanent occupation, as affording to the mis- 
 sionary encouraging prospects, not of freedom from privation, but of 
 extensive usefulness. 
 
 Kairua, on the west, claims, doubtless, our earliest attention. Not 
 less than 60 of its 3,000 inhabitants, including the governor, have 
 been taught to read and write their own language, and have been 
 made acquainted with the first principles of Christianity. (Kairua, 
 Kearakekua, and Waiakea, have since been occupied. — Ed.) 
 
 Near Kearakekua, memorable for the lamented fall of Captain 
 Cook, we were surprised and delighted to find a friendly chief, Ka- 
 makau, who espouses with lively interest, the cause of the Gospel, 
 and earnestly desires to be taught himself, and to teach his people, 
 the word of God. The expected residence here of Naihe and Kapio- 
 lani, interesting chiefs, renders it still more desirable that missionaries 
 should reside here. 
 
 Honaunau, the frequent residence of former kings, where a de- 
 pository of their bones, and many images of their gods, still remain, 
 has a dense population waiting for Christian instruction. 
 
 Including these three places, the coast, for twenty miles, embraces 
 more than forty villages, containing a population of perhaps 20,000 
 souls, to whom missionaries, stationed at these posts, might convey 
 instruction. 
 
 Honuapo, on the southern shore, is an extensive village, with a con- 
 siderable population in its vicinity. 
 
 Kaimu is a pleasant village on the southeast shore, with 700 inhabi- 
 tants, and with twice that number of people in its vicinity. 
 
 At most of the above places, unless wells can be obtained, the mis- 
 sionaries will often experience the want of good water. 
 
 Waiakea, on the east, well watered, fertile and beautiful, having a 
 commodious harbour, with an extensive population, demands, next to 
 Kairua, our earliest arrangements for permanent missionary opera- 
 tions. 
 
 Waipio, little less fertile and beautiful, having in its immediate 
 neighbourhood Waimanu, a valley of similar beauty and importance, 
 is waiting to receive the precious seed. 
 
 Towaihae on the north-west, a considerable village, presents nearly 
 equal claims. 
 
 Several other places, which have not been named, are scarcely less 
 inviting.
 
 13 
 
 DETAILS IN JOINT JOURNAL. 
 
 The whole field is open to spiritual cultivation, "and he that 
 goeth forth and weepeth, bearing precious seed, shall doubtless come 
 again with rejoicing, bringing his sheaves with him." 
 
 Such is the general view, which we proposed to lay before you. 
 But for more particular information on the various subjects of our 
 inquiry; for detailed descriptions of the places eligible for missionary 
 operations, and of the recently established and flourishing station 
 visited by one of us at Maui; and for minute and copious accounts 
 of Hawaii, and of the sentiments, characters, and employments, of its 
 ingenious inhabitants; we beg leave respectfully to refer you to our 
 joint journal of the tour. Believing that you will rejoice with us in 
 the cheering prospect of the early and ultimate success of missionary 
 operations there, and encouraged as we are with the assured hope of 
 the complete and glorious triumph of the Gospel in every island, 
 permit us affectionately to invite you to unite with us, "even as also 
 ye do," in humble and earnest prayer for this interesting portion of 
 our race; that the seed already sown among them may be as "the 
 handful of corn upon the tops of the mountains, the fruit whereof 
 shall shake like Lebanon;" that the promise to the Eedeemer of the 
 nations may be remembered for their good; and that divine mercies 
 may descend from heaven upon them in rich and joyful profusion, 
 "as the dew of Hermon, and as the dew that descended upon the 
 mountains of Zion, for there the Lord commanded the blessing, even 
 life forever more."
 
 14 
 PREFACE TO 1827 ENGLISH EDITION. 
 
 The greater part of the following Narrative was written in the 
 Sandwich Islands, from notes taken by my fellow-travellers and my- 
 self, while engaged in the Tour it describes. At my request, a mem- 
 ber of the American Mission was associated in preparing it; but cir- 
 cumstances requiring his presence in another island, the task devolved 
 on myself alone. 
 
 The journal, when prepared, was submitted to most of the mis- 
 sionaries, and approved. As the chief object of the Tour, — a survey 
 of the religious state of the inhabitants of the island, — was one in 
 which the American Society had an equal interest with the London 
 Missionary Society, with which I am connected, a copy of the journal 
 approved in the islands, was, according to previous agreement be- 
 tween the American missionaries and myself, left by me in America, 
 and I believe will be published there. 
 
 ADDITIONS TO JOURNAL. 
 
 The continued narrative form, as more agreeable than that of a 
 daily journal, has been adopted in the present publication; and the 
 writer appears in the first person, instead of the third. I have not 
 felt it incumbent on me to confine myself to the mere contents of 
 the document left in America; but have, in various parts, made large 
 additions from my own private observations. 
 
 The biographical accounts of various important persons, many 
 descriptions of the superstitions, manners, customs, and traditions of 
 the people, the nature of their government, and the remarks on their 
 language, are taken from my own memoranda, which a knowledge 
 of their language enabled me to make, during my daily intercourse 
 with the natives for the space of two years. 
 
 I have occasionally illustrated my remarks by allusions to the 
 Society Islands, where I spent sis years in missionary occupations. 
 I have invariably represented the natives as we found them, exhibit- 
 ing freely the lights and shades of their character, without exagge- 
 ration; and can assure my readers, that it has been my constant aim 
 to offer nothing, the accuracy of which may not be relied upon; and, 
 in many descriptions, have rather diminished than enlarged the 
 objects described. 
 
 PICTURES AND MAPS. 
 
 The drawings were sketched on the spot. The outline of the map is 
 from Vancouver's survey, unaltered, except slightly in two places, 
 viz. Kairua and Waiakea. The geographical divisions, &c. were in-
 
 15 
 
 serted during the Tour; and specimens brought to this country, of 
 the lava, &c. described in the narrative, have been inspected by in- 
 dividuals of eminence in the study of mineralogy. 
 
 It is hoped, that in various points of view, the following narrative 
 will be found interesting. It will introduce to the more accurate 
 knowledge of our country a portion of the human race, with which 
 they have been hitherto very imperfectly acquainted; and tend to 
 remove some prejudices which may have existed respecting the sup- 
 posed invincible ferocity of the Sandwich Islanders. It will prove 
 that they are rapidly emerging from their former condition, and pre- 
 paring to maintain a higher rank in the scale of nations. Above all, 
 it will furnish a decisive and triumphant illustration of the direct 
 tendency of Christian principles, and Christian institutions, to pro- 
 mote the true amelioration of mankind in all the relations of social 
 life. 
 
 POWER OF CHRISTIANITY. 
 
 Without depreciating the value of those efforts, which mere political 
 philanthropists may employ for the interests of humanity; such facts 
 as those presented to the world, in the recent history of the Society 
 and Sandwich Islands, prove, that CHEISTIANITY ALONE supplies 
 the most powerful motives, and the most effective machinery, for 
 originating and accomplishing the processes of civilization. "While 
 the spiritual welfare and the eternal destinies of men are the primary 
 objects of its solicitude, it provides for all their subordinate interests 
 on true and permanent principles, and thus lays a solid foundation 
 for personal happiness, domestic comfort, and national prosperity. 
 These are the legitimate triumphs of the gospel; these are moral 
 demonstrations of its efficiency and its origin; these are proofs, in 
 perfect harmony with other illustrations of the fact, that "the foolish- 
 ness of God is wiser than men, and the weakness of God is stronger 
 than men;" and that "godliness hath the promise of the life that 
 now is, and of the life which is to come." 
 
 The candid reader will pass over all the defects in the execution 
 of the work, when assured, that every pretension, except to a simple 
 narrative of facts, is disclaimed; that it was prepared amidst a variety 
 of engagements, and under the pressure of severe domestic affliction, 
 and that the last ten years of my life have been so much devoted 
 to the study of the uncultivated languages of the Pacific, that when 
 most of it was written, they were more familiar than my native 
 tongue. 
 
 London, February 23, 1826.
 
 of ihe 
 
 C
 
 Missionary Tour Through Hawaii 
 
 By WILLIAA ELLIS 
 
 It is nearly half a century since Captain Cook, in search of a north- 
 ern passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic, discovered a group of 
 islands, which, in honour of his patron the Earl of Sandwich, first 
 lord of the Admiralty, he called the SANDWICH ISLANDS. The 
 importance he attached to this discovery may be gathered from his 
 own words; for, when speaking of the circumstances under which the 
 vessels anchored for the first time in Kearake 'kua bay, the appear- 
 ance of the natives, &c. he remarks, "We could not but be struck 
 with the singularity of this scene; and, perhaps, there were few on 
 board who now lamented our having failed in our endeavours to find 
 a northern passage homeward last summer. To this disappointment 
 we owed our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, 
 and to enrich our voyage with a discovery, which, though last, seemed, 
 in many respects, to be the most important that had hitherto been 
 made by Europeans throughout the extent of the Pacific ocean." 
 
 These are the last words recorded in the journal of that enter- 
 prising and intelligent navigator; a melancholy event shortly after- 
 wards occurred on the shores of this very bay, which arrested his 
 career of discovery, and terminated his existence. 
 
 On the return of the survivors, a detailed account of the islands 
 and their inhabitants was given to the world, and excited no small 
 degree of interest, not only in England, but throughout the continent 
 of Europe. 
 
 CHARACTER OF COOK'S REPORTS. 
 
 The descriptions which Captain Cook's Voyages contained, of the 
 almost primitive simplicity, natural vivacity, and fascinating man- 
 ners, of a people who had existed for ages, isolated, and unknown 
 to the rest of the world, were so entirely new, and the accounts 
 given of the mildness and salubrity of the climate, the spontaneous 
 abundance of delicious fruits, and the varied and delightful appear- 
 ance of the natural scenery in the Sandwich and other islands of the 
 Pacific, were so enchanting, that many individuals were led to imagine 
 they were a sort of elysium, where the highly favoured inhabitants, 
 free from the toil and care, the want and disappointment, which mar 
 the happiness of civilized communities, dwelt in what they called a 
 state of nature, and spent their lives in unrestrained gratification and 
 enjoyment. 
 
 These descriptions, were, I am convinced, faithful transcripts of the 
 first impressions made on the minds of Captain Cook and his com-
 
 18 
 
 panions, and in every respect correct, so far as their partial observa- 
 tion extended. 
 
 A residence of eight years in the Society and Sandwich islands, 
 has afforded me an opportunity of becoming familiar with many of 
 the scenes and usages described in their, voyages, and I have often 
 been struck with the fidelity with which they are uniformly portrayed. 
 In the inferences they draw, and the reasons they assign, they are 
 sometimes mistaken; but in the description of what they saw and 
 heard, there is throughout a degree of accuracy, seldom if ever ex- 
 ceeded in accounts equally minute and extended. Still their acquain- 
 tance with the islands and the people was superficial, and the state of 
 society which thoy witnessed was different from what generally 
 existed. 
 
 EFFECT ON NATIVES OF COOK'S ARRIVAL. 
 
 An event so important and surprising as their arrival, — the ships 
 and the foreigners, — the colour, dress, arms, language, manners, &c. 
 of the latter, whom they regarded at first as superior beings, so power- 
 fully affected the minds of the natives, that the ordinary Avocations 
 of life were for a time suspended. The news of such an event 
 rapidly spread through the island and multitudes flocked from every 
 quarter to see the return of Orono, or the motus, (islands) as they 
 called their ships. 
 
 The whole island was laid under requisition, to supply their wants, 
 or contribute to their satisfaction. Hence the immense quantity of 
 provisions presented by Taraiopu; the dances, &c. with which they 
 were entertained. The effect also produced on the minds of those 
 early visitors, by what they saw during their transient stay among 
 the islands, was heightened by all the attractions of novelty, and all 
 the complacency which such discoveries naturally inspire. 
 
 IMPRESSION OF MISSIONARIES DIFFERENT FROM COOK'S. 
 
 Far different are the impressions produced on the minds of the 
 missionaries who have resided for some years in the islands. Having 
 acquired their language, observed their domestic economy, and be- 
 come acquainted with the nature of their government, the sanguinary 
 character of their frequent wars, their absurd and oppressive system 
 of idolatry, and the prevalence of human sacrifice, they are led, from 
 the indubitable facts which have come under their notice, to more 
 just and accurate conclusions in awful accordance with the faithful 
 testimony of divine revelation.
 
 19 
 DESCRIPTION OF ISLANDS. 
 
 Although ten in number, only eight of the Sandwich Islands are 
 inhabited, the other two being barren rocks, principally resorted to by 
 fishermen. They lie within the tropic of Cancer, between 18° 50' and 
 22° 20' north latitude, and between 154° 53' and 160° 15' west 
 longitude from Greenwich, about one-third of the distance from the 
 western coast of Mexico, towards the eastern shores of China. The 
 Sandwich Islands are larger than the Society Islands, or any of the 
 neighbouring clusters. 
 
 HAWAII, the principal island of the group, resembles in shape an 
 equilateral triangle, and is somewhat less than three hundred miles in 
 circumference, being about ninety-seventy miles in length, seventy- 
 eight in breadth, two hundred and eighty miles in circumference, and 
 covering a surface of 4000 square miles. It is the most southern of 
 the whole, and, on account of its great elevation, is usually the first 
 land seen from vessels approaching the Sandwich Islands. Its broad 
 base and regular form renders its outline different from that of any 
 other island in the Pacific with which we are acquainted. 
 
 The mountains of Hawaii, unlike the peak of Teneriffe in tha 
 Atlantic, the mountains of Eimeo, and some other islands of the 
 Pacific, do not pierce the clouds like obelisks or spires, but in most 
 parts, and from the southern shore in particular, the ascent is gradual, 
 and comparatively unbroken, from the sea beach to the lofty summit 
 of Mouna Eoa. 
 
 HAWAII COMPARED "WITH TAHITI. 
 
 The whole appearance of Hawaii is less romantic and picturesque 
 than that of Tahiti, the principal of the Society Islands, but more 
 grand and sublime, filling the mind of the beholder with wonder and 
 delight. 
 
 On approaching the islands, I have more than once observed the 
 mountains of the interior long before the coast was visible, or any of 
 the usual indications of land had been seen. On these occasions, the 
 elevated summit of Mouna Kea, or Mouna Eoa, has appeared above 
 the mass of clouds that usually skirt the horizon, like a stately pyra- 
 mid, or the silvered dome of a magnificent temple, distinguished from 
 the clouds beneath, only by its well-defined outline, unchanging posi- 
 tion, and intensity of brilliancy occasioned by the reflection of the 
 Bun's rays from the surface of the snow. 
 
 The height of these mountains has been computed by some navi- 
 gators who have visited the Sandwich Islands, at 12,000, and by others
 
 20 
 
 at 18,000 feet. The estimate of Captain King,* we think, exceeds 
 their actual elevation, and the peaks of Mouna Kea, in the opinion 
 of those of our number who have ascended its summit, arc not more 
 than 1000 feet high. But admitting the snow to remain permanent on 
 the mountains of the torrid zone at the height of 14,600 feet, the 
 altitude of Mouna Kea and Mouna Koa is probably not less than 15,000 
 feet. 
 
 The base of these mountains, is, at the distance of a few miles from 
 the sea shore, covered with trees; higher up, their sides are clothed 
 with bushes, ferns, and alpine plants; but their summits are formed 
 of lava, partly decomposed, yet destitute of every kind of verdure. 
 
 PEW INLAND SETTLEMENTS. 
 
 There are a few inland settlements on the east and north-west parts 
 of the island, but, in general, the interior is an uninhabited wilder- 
 ness. 
 
 The heart of Hawaii, forming a vast central valley between Mouna 
 Boa, Mouna Kea, and Mouna Huararai, is almost unknown, no road 
 leads across it from the east to the western shore, but it is reported, 
 by the natives who have entered it, to be "bristled with forests of 
 ohia, " or to exhibit vast tracts of sterile and indurated lava. 
 
 The circumstance of large flocks of wild geese being frequently 
 seen in the mountains, would lead to the supposition that there must 
 be large ponds or lakes to which they resort; but if any exist, they 
 have hitherto remained undiscovered. 
 
 The greatest part of the land capable of cultivation, is found near 
 the sea shore; along which, the towns and villages of the natives are 
 thickly scattered. The population at present is about 85,000, and will 
 most probably be greatly increased by the establishment of Christian- 
 ity, whose mild influence, it may reasonably be expected, will effect 
 a cessation of war, an abolition of infanticide, and a diminution of 
 those vices, principally of foreign origin, which have hitherto so mate- 
 rially contributed to the depopulation of the islands. 
 
 * In Cook's Voyages, Captain King, speaking of Mouna-Kaah, (Kea,) remarks 
 that it "may be clearly seen at fourteen leagues' distance." Describing Mouna- 
 Roa, and estimating it according to the tropical line of snow, he observes, "This 
 mountain must be at least 16.020 feet high, which exceeds the height of the Pico 
 de Teyde, or Peak of Teneriffe, by 724 feet, according to Dr. Heberden's com- 
 putation, or 3680 according to that of Chevalier de Borda. The peaks of Mouna- 
 Kaah appeared to be about half a mile high; and as they are entirely covered 
 with snow, the altitude of their summits cannot be less than 18,400 feet. But 
 it is probable that both these mountains may be considerably higher; for in 
 insular situations, the effects of the warm sea air must necessarily remove the 
 line of snow, in equal latitudes, to a greater height, than where the atmosphere 
 is chilled on all sides by an immense tract of perpetual snow."
 
 21 
 
 IMPORTANCE OF HAWAII. 
 
 Hawaii is by far the largest, most populous, and important island 
 of the group, and, until within a few years, was the usual residence 
 of the king, and the frequent resort of every chief of importance in 
 the other islands. Foreigners, however, having of late found the har- 
 bours of some of the leeward islands more secure and convenient than 
 those of Hawaii, have been induced more frequently to visit them; 
 and this has led the king and principal chiefs to forsake, in a great 
 degree, the favourite residence of their ancestors, and excepting the 
 governor, and the chiefs of Kaavaroa, to spend the greater part of 
 their time in some of the other islands. 
 
 MAUI DESCRIBED. 
 
 Separated from the northern shore of Hawaii by a strait, about 
 twenty-four miles across, the island of MAUI is situated in lat. 20° N. 
 and Ion. 157° W. This island is forty-eight miles in length, in the 
 widest part twenty-nine miles across, about one hundred and forty 
 miles in circumference, and covers about 600 square miles. At a dis- 
 tance it appears like two distinct islands, but on nearer approach a 
 low isthmus, about nine miles across, is seen uniting the two penin- 
 sulas. The whole island is entirely volcanic, and was probably pro- 
 duced by the action of two adjacent volcanoes, which have ejected 
 the immense masses of matter of which it is composed. The appear- 
 ance of Maui resembles Tahiti more than the neighbouring island of 
 Hawaii. The southern peninsula, which is the largest of the two, is 
 lofty; but though its summits are often seen above the clouds, they 
 are never covered with snow. The high land is steep and rugged, 
 and frequently marked with extinct craters, or indurated streams of 
 lava; yet whenever the volcanic matters have undergone any degree 
 of decomposition, the sides of the mountains, as well as the ravines 
 by which they are intersected, are covered with shrubs and trees. 
 
 In the northern peninsula there are several extensive tracts of level 
 and well- watered land, in a high state of cultivation; and although 
 this part of the island is evidently of volcanic formation, the marks 
 of recent eruption, so frequent in the southern peninsula, are seldom 
 seen here. The population of Maui has been estimated at 18,000 or 
 20,000, and the number of inhabitants do not probably fall short of 
 that number. 
 
 MISSION ESTABLISHED AT LAHAINA. 
 
 In the month of May, 1823, a Christian Mission was commenced at 
 Lahaina, the most important and populous district in the island, and
 
 22 
 
 the endeavors of Messrs. Stewart and Kichards and the native teach- 
 ers by whom they were accompanied, have been attended with the 
 most decisive and extensive success. Public preaching on the Sabbath 
 is regularly attended by numerous audiences, and thousands of the 
 people are daily receiving instruction in, useful knowledge, and the 
 principles of Christianity, in the various native schools, which are 
 patronized by the young Prince Kauikeouli, younger brother and 
 successor to the late king, — by his sister Nahienaena, — and by all the 
 principal chiefs of Maui. The most lasting benefits may be expected 
 to result, not only to the present race, but to every future generation 
 of the inhabitants. 
 
 KAHOOLAWE AND MOLOKINI DESCRIBED. 
 
 To the south of Maui, and only a few miles distant from its southern 
 peninsula, is situated the small island of TAHAUEAWE, about eleven 
 miles in length, and eight across. It is low, and almost destitute of 
 every kind of shrub or verdure, excepting a species of coarse grass. 
 The rocks of which it is formed are volcanic, but we are not aware 
 of the existence of any active or extinct craters on the island; and 
 from its shape and appearance, it is not improbable that it once 
 formed a part of Maui, from which it may have been detached by 
 some violent convulsion connected with the action of the adjacent 
 volcanoes of Maui or Hawaii. There are but few settled residents 
 on the island, and these are considered as under the authority of the 
 governor of Maui. 
 
 MOKOKENT, a barren rock, lies between these two islands, and 
 would render the navigation of the strait exceedingly dangerous, were 
 it not so much elevated above the sea as to be at all times visible 
 from vessels passing between the islands. Morokini is only visited 
 by fishermen, who on its barren surface spread their nets to dry, and 
 for this purpose it may be considered a convenient appendange to 
 the adjacent islands. 
 
 LANAI DESCRIBED. 
 
 EANAI, a compact island, seventeen miles in length and nine in 
 breadth, lies north-west of Tahaurawe, and west of Lahaina, in Maui; 
 from which it is separated by a channel, not more than nine or ten 
 miles across. Though the centre of the island is much more elevated 
 than Tahaurawe, it is neither so high nor broken as any of the other 
 islands: great part of it is barren, and the island in general suffers 
 much from the long droughts which frequently prevail; the ravines 
 and glens, notwithstanding, are filled with thickets of small trees, and 
 to these many of the inhabitants of Maui repair for the purpose of 
 cutting posts and rafters for their small houses. The island is vol-
 
 23 
 
 canic; the soil shallow, and by no means fertile; the shores, however, 
 abound with shell-fish, and some species of medusae and cuttle-fish. 
 The inhabitants are but few, probably not exceeding two thousand. 
 Native teachers are endeavouring to instruct them in useful knowl- 
 edge and religious truth, but no foreign missionary has yet laboured 
 on this or the neighboring island of Morokai, which is separated from 
 the northern side of Eanai, and the eastern end of Maui, by a channel, 
 which, though narrow, is sufficiently wide for the purposes of navi- 
 gation. 
 
 MOLOKAI DESCRIBED. 
 
 Morokai is a long irregular island, apparently formed by a chain of 
 volcanic mountains, forty miles in length, and not more than seven 
 miles broad; the mountains are nearly equal in elevation to those of 
 Maui, and are broken by numerous deep ravines and watercourses, the 
 sides of which are frequently clothed with verdure, and ornamented 
 with shrubs and trees. There is but little level land in Morokai, and 
 consequently but few plantations; several spots, however, are fertile, 
 and repay the toils of their cultivators. The population is greater 
 than that of Eanai, though it does not probably exceed three thou- 
 sand persons. Native teachers are engaged in the instruction of the 
 people; many of the natives also occasionally visit the missionary sta- 
 tions in the adjacent islands of Oahu and Maui, and participate in 
 the advantages connected with these institutions. 
 
 OAHU DESCRIBED. 
 
 OAHU, the most romantic and fertile of the Sandwich Islands, 
 resembling in the varied features of its natural scenery, several of 
 the Society Islands, — lies nearly west-north west of Morokai, from 
 which it is between twenty and thirty miles distant. This beautiful 
 island is about forty-six miles long, and twenty-three wide; its appear- 
 ance from the roads off Honoruru, or Waititi is remarkably pic- 
 turesque: a chain of lofty mountains rises near the centre of the east- 
 ern part of the island, and, extending perhaps twenty miles, reaches 
 the plain of Eva, which divides it from the distant and elevated moun- 
 tains that rise in a line parallel with the north-west shore. The plain 
 of Eva is nearly twenty miles in length, from the Pearl River to 
 Waiarua, and in some parts nine or ten miles across: the soil is fertile, 
 and watered by a number of rivulets, which wind their way along the 
 deep water-courses that intersect its surface, and empty themselves 
 into the sea. Though capable of a high state of improvement, a very 
 small portion of it is enclosed, or under any kind of culture; and in 
 travelling across it, scarce a habitation is to be seen. The whole 
 island is volcanic, and, in many parts, extinguished craters of largo
 
 24 
 
 dimensions may be seen; but, from the depth of mould with which 
 they are covered, and the trees and shrubs with which they are 
 clothed it may be presumed that many ages have elapsed since any 
 eruption took place. 
 
 HONOLULU GEOLOGICALLY DESCRIBED. 
 
 The plain of Honoruru exhibits in a singular manner the extent 
 and effects of volcanic agency; it is not less than nine or ten miles in 
 length, and, in some parts, two miles from the sea to the foot of the 
 mountains; the whole plain is covered with a rich alluvial soil, fre- 
 quently two or three feet deep; beneath this, a layer of fine volcanic 
 ashes and cinders extends to the depth of fourteen or sixteen feet; 
 these ashes lie upon a stratum of solid rock by no means volcanic, 
 but evidently calcareous, and apparently a kind of sediment deposited 
 by the sea, in which branches of white coral, bones of fish and ani- 
 mals, and several varieties of marine shells, are often found. A num- 
 ber of wells have been recently dug in different parts of the plain, in 
 which, after penetrating through the calcareous rock, sometimes 
 twelve or thirteen feet, good clear water has been always found: the 
 water in all these wells is perfectly free from any salt or brackish 
 taste, though it invariably rises and falls with the tide, which would 
 lead to the supposition that it is connected with the waters of the 
 adjacent ocean, from which the wells are from 100 yards to three 
 quarters of a mile distant. The rock is always hard and compact 
 near the surface, but becomes soft and porous as the depth increases; 
 and it is possible that the water in these wells may have percolated 
 through the cells of the rock, and by this process of filtration have 
 lost its saline qualities. The base of the mountains which bound the 
 plain in the interior appears to have formed the original line of coast 
 on this side of the island, but probably in some remote period an 
 eruption took place from two broad-based truncated mountains, called 
 by foreigners Diamond Hill and Punchbowl Hill, evidently extin- 
 guished craters; the ashes and cinders then thrown out were wafted 
 by the trade-winds in a westerly direction, filled up the sea, and 
 formed the present extensive plain; the soil of its surface having been 
 subsequently produced either by the decomposition of lava, or the 
 mould and decayed vegetable matter washed down from the mountains 
 during the rainy season of the year. 
 
 NUTJANU VALLEY IN 1823. 
 
 Across this plain, immediately opposite the harbour of Honoruru,' lies 
 the valley of Anuanu, leading to a pass in the mountains, called by 
 the natives Ka Pari, the precipice, which is well worth the attention 
 of every intelligent foreigner visiting Oahu. The mouth of the valley, 
 which opens immediately behind the town of Honoruru, is a complete
 
 25 
 
 garden, carefully kept by its respective proprietors in a state of high 
 cultivation; and the ground being irrigated by the water from a river 
 that winds rapidly down the valley, is remarkably productive. The 
 valley rises with a gradual ascent from the shore to the precipice, 
 which is seven or eight miles from ttie town. After walking 
 about three miles through one unbroken series of plantations, the 
 valley becomes gradually narrower, and the mountains rise more steep 
 on either side. The scenery is romantic and delightful: the bottom of 
 the valley is gently undulated; a rapid stream takes its serpentine 
 way from one side of the valley to the other, sometimes meandering 
 along with an unruffled surface, at other times rushing down a fall 
 several feet, or dashing and foaming among the rocks that interrupt 
 its progress. 
 
 The sides of the hills are clothed with verdure; even the barren 
 rocks that project from among the bushes are ornamented with pendu- 
 lous or creeping plants of various kinds; and in several places, beauti- 
 ful cascades roll their silvery streams down the steep mountain's side 
 into flowing rivulets beneath. 
 
 NUTJANTJ PALI. 
 
 The beauty of the scenery around increases, until at length, after 
 walking some time on a rising ground rather more steep than usual, 
 and through a thicket of hibiscus and other trees, the traveller sud- 
 dently emerges into an open space, and, turning round a small pile 
 of volcanic rocks, the Pari all at once bursts upon him with an almost 
 overwhelming effect. 
 
 Immense masses of black and ferruginous volcanic rock, many hun- 
 dred feet in nearly perpendicular height, present themselves on both 
 sides to his astonished view; while immediately before him, he looks 
 down the fearful steep several hundred feet, and beholds hills and 
 valleys, trees and cottages, meandering streams and winding paths, 
 cultivated plantations and untrodden thickets, and a varied landscape 
 many miles in extent, bounded by lofty mountains on the one side, 
 and the white-crested waves of the ocean on the other — spread out 
 before him as if by the hand of enchantment. 
 
 I have several times visited this romantic spot, and once climbed 
 the rocky precipice from the district of Kolau, on the northern side: 
 the ascent is at first gradual and easy, but in two places, towards the 
 highest edge, the volcanic rocks appear to rise perpendicularly, pre- 
 senting an even, and apparently projecting front, which it seems im- 
 possible to ascend; but though the passage is thus difficult, and the 
 elevation of the upper ridge, over which the path leads, is from four 
 to five hundred feet above the level land below, yet the natives not 
 only pass and repass without much difficulty, but often carry heavy 
 burdens from one side to the other.
 
 26 
 
 TALES OF THE PALI. 
 
 It is reported that a native female, on one occasion, carried her 
 husband, who was in a state of intoxication, down the precipice in 
 safety. This appears hardly possible, and the story is probably one 
 of those fabulous wonders, with which inquiring foreigners are often 
 entertained during their stay among the islands. 
 
 On one of my visits, however, I saw a party, heavily laden with 
 provisions for the king's household, ascend the Pari, and one of them 
 had a pig of no very small size fastened on his back, with which he 
 climbed the steep, but not without difficulty. 
 
 THE GODS OP THE PALI. 
 
 Within a few yards of the upper edge of the pass, under the shade 
 of surrounding bushes and trees, two rude and shapeless stone idols 
 are fixed, one on each side of the path, which the native call "Akua 
 no ka Pari," gods of the precipice; they are usually covered with 
 pieces of white tapa, native cloth; and every native who passes by to 
 the precipice, if he intends to descend, lays a green bough before these 
 idols, encircles them with a garland of flowers, or wraps a piece of 
 tapa round them, to render them propitious to his descent. All who 
 ascend from the opposite side make a similar acknowledgment for the 
 supposed protection of the deities, whom they imagine to preside over 
 the fearful pass. This practice appears universal, for in our travels 
 among the islands, we have seldom passed any steep or dangerous 
 paths, at the commencement or termination of which we have not seen 
 these images, with heaps of offerings lying before them. 
 
 SURVIVAL OP SUPERSTITION. 
 
 Until very recently, it is evident the influence of superstition was 
 very strong in the minds of the great mass of the people, for although 
 the natives who accompanied us in our excursions, either from a convic- 
 tion of the absurdity of the notions of their countrymen, or from mere 
 wantonness, usually overturned the idols, battered them with stone, 
 or rolled them down the precipice or passage which they were sup- 
 posed to defend; yet on passing the same path only a very short time 
 afterwards, we have invariably found them replaced; or, if broken, 
 their places supplied by fresh ones. This conduct of our native com- 
 panions was never the consequence of our directions, and seldom 
 received our approbation, for we were not ambitious to become Icono- 
 clasts; our object was rather to enlighten the minds of the people, and 
 convince them of the absurdity and evil of idolatry, to present before 
 them the true God as the only legitimate object of rational homage, 
 lead them to the exercise of a better faith, and the adoption of a purer 
 worship; well assured that, if under the blessing of God we succeeded 
 in this, they themselves would, with the adoption of the Christian
 
 27 
 
 system, not only renounce idolatry, but abolish the appendages by 
 which it was upheld. 
 
 THE BATTLE OF NUUANTT. 
 
 The Pari of Anuanu was an important position in times of war, and 
 the parties in possession of it were usually masters of the island. In 
 its vicinity many sanguinary battles have been fought, and near it the 
 independence of Oahu was lost in or about the year 1790. Tameha- 
 meha invaded Oahu; the king of the island assembled his forces to 
 defend his country, between Honoruru and the Pearl river; an engage- 
 ment took place, in which his army was defeated, and his ally, Taeo, 
 king of Tauai and Nihau, was slain. The king of Oahu retreated 
 to the valley of Anuanu, where he was joined by Taiana, an ambitious 
 and warlike chief of Hawaii. Hither Tamehameha and his victorious 
 warriors pursued them, and, about two miles from the Pari, the last 
 battle in Oahu was fought. Here the king of Oahu was slain, his 
 army fled towards the precipice, chased by the warriors of Tameha- 
 meha; at the edge of the Pari, Taiana made a stand, and defended it 
 till he fell: the troops of the fallen chiefs still continued the conflict, 
 till being completely routed, a number of them, it is said four hun- 
 dred, were driven headlong over the precipice, dashed to pieces among 
 the fragments of rock that lie at its base, and Tamehameha remained 
 master of the field, and sovereign of the island. 
 
 The natives still point out the spot where the king of the island 
 stood, when he hurled his last spear at the advancing foe, and received 
 the fatal wound; and many as they pass by, turn aside from the path, 
 place their feet on the identical spot where he is said to have stood, 
 assume the attitude in which he is supposed to have received his 
 mortal wound, and, poising their staff or their spear, tell their chil- 
 dren or companions that there the last King of Oahu died defending 
 his country from its invading enemies. 
 
 THE CITY OF HONOLULU IN 1823. 
 
 Immediately south of the valley of Anuanu is situated the town and 
 harbour of Honoruru; the harbour is the best, and indeed the only 
 secure one at all seasons, in the Sandwich Islands, and is more fre- 
 quented by foreign vessels than any other; seldom having within it 
 less than three or four, and sometimes upward of thirty, lying at 
 anchor at the same time. 
 
 The town has also, since the number of shipping has increased, 
 become populous, and is one of the largest in the islands, usually con- 
 taining 6000 or 7000 inhabitants. It is the frequent residence of the 
 kin^ and principal chiefs, who are much engaged in traffic with 
 foreigners visiting the islands, or residing on shore, for purposes of 
 trade.
 
 28 
 
 There are twelve or fourteen merchants, principally Americans, who 
 have established warehouses on shore for foreign goods, principally 
 piece goods, hardware, crockery, hats and shoes, naval stores, &c, 
 which they retail to the natives for Spanish dollars or sandal wood. 
 
 On the eastern side of the basin is a strong fort, one hundred yards 
 square, mounting sixty guns. It was begun by the Russians, who 
 were expelled but finished by the natives, from an apprehension that 
 these foreigners, in connexion with the Russian settlements on the 
 north-west coast of America, were about to take possession of the 
 island. 
 
 FOUNDING OP THE AMERICAN MISSION. 
 
 Here also, in the month of April, 1820, an American mission was 
 commenced, which, under God, has been the means of producing a 
 most happy moral and domestic change in the character of many of 
 the people, whose advancement in the arts of civilized life, as well as 
 Christian knowledge, is truly gratifying. Several thousands are under 
 religious instruction, and numbers regularly attend the preaching of 
 the gospel, which we earnestly hope will result in the conversion of 
 many. Several have forsaken their grass huts, and erected com- 
 fortable stone or wooden houses, among which, one built by Karai- 
 moku, the prime minister, is highly creditable to his perseverance and 
 his taste. 
 
 THE MOANALUA SALT LAKE. 
 
 About six miles to the west of Honoruru, and nearly as far from 
 the village of Eva, on the Pearl river, there is a singular natural 
 curiosity, a small circular lake, situated at a short distance from the 
 sea shore, so impregnated with salt, that twice in the year the natives 
 take out between two and three hundred barrels of fine, clear, hard, 
 crystallized salt: this lake is not only an interesting natural curiosity, 
 but an important appendage to the island. It belongs to the king, 
 and is not only useful in curing large quantities of fish, but furnishes 
 a valuable article of commerce; quantities of it having been sent for 
 sale to Kamtschatka, and used in curing seal skins at the different 
 islands to which the natives have sent their vessels for that purpose, 
 or sold in the islands to Russian vessels, from the settlements on the 
 north-west coast of America. The population of Oahu is estimated at 
 about 20,000. 
 
 THE ISLAND OF KAUAI. 
 
 North-west of Oahu, and distant from it about seventy-five miles, 
 is situated the island of Tauai, which is a mountainous island, exceed- 
 ingly romantic in its appearance, but not so fertile as Oahu, or the 
 greater part of Maui. It is forty-six miles in length, and twenty-
 
 29 
 
 three in breadth, and covers a surface of 520 square miles. The popu- 
 lation probably amounts to nearly 10,000. The principal settlements 
 are in the neighbourhood of Waimea river, the roads at the entrance 
 of which are the usual resort of vessels touching at Tauai. Near the 
 mouth of the river is a strong fort, in excellent repair, mounting 
 twenty-two guns. It was erected several years since, and is well 
 adapted for defence. 
 
 CESSION OF KAUAI AND NIIHAU AND A REBELLION. 
 
 This, and the neighbouring island of Nihau, were not invaded and 
 conquered by Tamehameha, by whom all the other islands of the 
 group were subdued. Taumuarii, the king, rendered a tacit acknowl- 
 edgment of dependence on that ambitious prince, and paid annually 
 a nominal tribute both to him, and his son, the late Eihoriho, and, 
 shortly before his death, which took place in 1824, he formally ceded 
 the islands which he had governed to Karaimoku, the present regent 
 of the Sandwich Islands, for the king, who was then absent on a visit 
 to Great Britain. 
 
 The son of the late king, and several old warriors, dissatisfied with 
 the conduct of their sovereign, took up arms to rescue the islands 
 from the dominion of the chiefs of the windwards island, but being de- 
 feated in a battle fought in a valley near Waimea, the island is 
 now under the authority of the young prince Kauikeouli, the successor 
 to Eihoriho, and the present sovereign of the whole of the Sandwich 
 Islands. 
 
 ESTABLISHMENT OP THE MISSION ON KAUAI. 
 
 Soon after the commencement of the Mission in Oahu, a similar 
 institution was commenced in Tauai, under the friendly auspices of 
 the late king, and continued to prosper until the civil war, which 
 followed his death, obliged the Missionaries to remove from the 
 island, and suspend their endeavours for the instruction of the natives. 
 Since the restoration of peace, however, their labours have been 
 resumed with more extensive and encouraging prospects of success 
 than had been previously enjoyed. The inhabitants are in general 
 a hardy and industrious race; but it is remarkable that in their 
 language they employ the t in all those words in which the k would 
 be used by the natives of the other islands. 
 
 THE ISLAND OP NIIHAU. 
 
 NIHAU, a small island, twenty miles in length, and seven miles 
 wide, politically connected with Tauai, lies in a westerly direction, 
 about fifteen miles distant. The inhabitants are not numerous, and, 
 in the general features of their character, resemble the people of 
 Tauai.
 
 30 
 
 These islands are celebrated throughout the whole group for the 
 manufacture of the fine painted or variegated mats, so much admired 
 by foreigners, and which, for the purpose of sleeping on, the chiefs 
 in all the islands prefer to any others. 
 
 These mats are sometimes very large, measuring eighteen or twenty 
 yards in length, and three or four yards in breadth, yet they are 
 woven by the hand, without any loom or frame, with surprising regu- 
 larity and exactness. 
 
 They are made with a fine kind of rush, part of which they stain 
 of a red colour with vegetable dyes, and form their beautiful patterns 
 by weaving them into the mat at its first fabrication, or weaving them 
 in after it is finished. 
 
 The natives of these islands are also distinguished for the culti- 
 vation of the yam, which grows very large, both at Tauai and Nihau, 
 and contributes essentially to the support of the inhabitants. As 
 they are not cultivated to any extent in the other islands, many ships 
 are induced to visit there, principally for the purpose of procuring a 
 supply; they are not only an excellent root, but will keep a long time 
 at sea without deterioration. 
 
 THE ISLAND OF KAULA. 
 
 TAUEA, is another small island belonging to tne group, lying in a 
 south-western direction from Tauai; but it is only a barren rock, the 
 resort of vast numbers of aquatic birds, for the purpose of procuring 
 which, it is occasionally visited by the natives of the windward 
 islands. 
 
 Adjacent to the shores of most of the islands, small reefs of white 
 coral, common throughout the Pacific, are occasionally found; but 
 they are not so varied in their kind, so frequently met with, nor so 
 extensive, as in all the southern islands. 
 
 The climate is not insalubrious, though warm, and debilitating to 
 an European constitution. There is nothing Like winter; and the only 
 variation in the uniformity of the seasons, is occasioned by the fre- 
 quent and heavy rains, which usually fall between December and 
 March, and the prevalence of southerly and variable winds during the 
 same season. 
 
 The following tabular view of a meteorological journal, kept by the 
 American missionaries, will show more fully the state of the weather 
 for a year, from August, 1821, to July, 1822; the thermometer was 
 noted at 8 a. m., 3 p. m. and 8 p. m.:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 32 
 
 Eain falls but seldom on the western shores of any of the islands, 
 excepting in the season above mentioned, though showers are fre- 
 quent on the eastern or windward side, and in the mountains occur 
 almost daily. 
 
 The soil is rich in those parts which have long been free from 
 volcanic eruptions; but the general appearance of the country is 
 hardly so inviting as when first discovered; many parts, then under 
 cultivation, are now lying waste. 
 
 PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF NATIVES. 
 
 The natives are in general rather above the middle stature, well 
 formed, with fine muscular limbs, open countenances, and features fre- 
 quently resembling those of Europeans. Their gait is graceful, and 
 sometimes stately. 
 
 The chiefs in particular are tall and stout, and their personal 
 appearance is so much superior to that of the common people, that 
 some have imagined them a distinct race. This, however, is not the 
 fact; the great care taken of them in childhood, and their better liv- 
 ing, have probably occasioned the difference. Their hair is black or 
 brown, strong, and frequently curly; their complexion is neither yel- 
 low like the Malays, nor red like the American Indians, but a kind 
 of olive, and sometimes reddish-brown. Their arms, and other parts 
 of the body, are tatau'd; but, except in one of the islands, this is by 
 no means so common as in many parts of the Southern sea. 
 
 POPULATION IN 1823 — CAUSES OF DEPOPULATION. 
 
 Compared with the inhabitants of other islands, they may be termed 
 numerous. They were estimated by their discoverers at 400,000. 
 There is reason to believe this was somewhat above the actual popu- 
 lation at that time, though traces of deserted villages, and numerous 
 enclosures formerly cultivated, but now abandoned, are every where 
 to be met with. 
 
 At present it does not exceed 130,000 or 150,000, of which 85,000 
 inhabit the island of Hawaii. 
 
 The rapid depopulation which has most certainly taken place within 
 the last fifty years, is to be attributed to the frequent and desolating 
 wars which marked the early part of Tamehameha's reign; the rav- 
 ages of a pestilence brought in the first instance by foreign vessels, 
 which has twice, during the above period, swept through the islands; 
 the awful prevalence of infanticide; and the melancholy increase and 
 destructive consequences of depravity and vice. 
 
 ANIMALS OF HAWAII. 
 The natural history of the islands, as it regards the animal king- 
 dom, is exceedingly circumscribed. The only quadrupeds originally
 
 33 
 
 found inhabiting them, were a small species of hogs, with long heads 
 and small erect ears; dogs, lizards, and an animal larger than a mouse, 
 but smaller than a rat. There were no beasts of prey, nor any feroc- 
 ious animals, except the hogs, which were sometimes found wild in 
 the mountains. 
 
 There are now large herds of cattle in Hawaii, and some tame ones 
 in most of the islands, together with flocks of goats, and a few horses 
 and sheep, which have been taken there at different times, principally 
 from the adjacent continent of America. 
 
 Horses, cattle, and goats, thrive well, but the climate appears too 
 warm for sheep, unless they are kept on the mountains, which, in con- 
 sequence of the keenness of the air, are seldom inhabited by the 
 natives. 
 
 BIRDS OF HAWAII — ABSENCE OF REPTILES. 
 
 Birds, excepting those which are aquatic, and a species of owl that 
 preys upon mice, are seldom seen near the shores. In the mountains 
 they are numerous; and the notes of one kind, whose colour is brown 
 and yellow speckled, are exceedingly sweet, resembling those of the 
 English thrush. Several are remarkably beautiful, among which may 
 be reckoned a small kind of paroquet of a glossy purple, and a species 
 of red, yellow, and green woodpecker, with whose feathers the gods 
 were dressed, and the helmets and handsome cloaks of the chiefs are 
 ornamented. But the feathered tribes of Hawaii are not in general 
 distinguished by variety of plumage, or melody in their notes. 
 
 There are wild geese in the mountains, and ducks near the lagoons 
 or ponds in the vicinity of the sea shore; the domestic fowl was found 
 there by their first discoverer, and though now seldom used as an arti- 
 cle of food, is raised for the supply of shipping. 
 
 In common with the other islands of the Pacific, they are entirely 
 free from every noxious and poisonous reptile, excepting centipedes, 
 which are neither large nor numerous. 
 
 FISH, VEGETABLES AND FRUIT IN HAWAII. 
 
 Fish are not so abundant on their shores as around many of the 
 other islands; they have, however, several varieties, and the in- 
 habitants procure a tolerable supply. 
 
 The vegetable productions, though less valuable and abundant than 
 in some of the islands both to the west and the south, are found in 
 no small variety, and the most serviceable are cultivated with facility. 
 
 The natives subsist principally on the roots of the arum esculentum, 
 which tliey call taro, on the convulvulus batatas, or sweet potato, 
 called by thcrn uara, and uhi, or yam. 
 
 The principal indigenous fruits are the uru, or bread-fruit; the
 
 34 
 
 niu, or cocoa-nut; the maia, or plantain; the ohia, a species of eugenia; 
 and the strawberry and raspberry. 
 
 Oranges, limes, citrons, grapes, pine-apples, papaw-apples, cucum- 
 bers, and water melons, have been introduced, and, excepting the pine- 
 apples, thrive well. French beans, onions, pumpkins, and cabbages, 
 have also been added to their vegetables, and, though not esteemed 
 by the natives, are cultivated to some extent, for the purpose of sup- 
 plying the shipping. 
 
 COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES OP HAWAII. 
 
 Sugar-cane is indigenous, and grows to a large size, though it is not 
 much cultivated. 
 
 Large tracts of fertile land lie waste in most of the islands; and 
 sugar-cane, together with cotton, coffee, and other valuable inter- 
 tropical productions, might be easily raised in considerable quantities, 
 which will, probably, be the case when the natives become more in- 
 dustrious and civilized. 
 
 The local situation of the Sandwich Islands is important, and highly 
 advantageous for purposes of commerce, &c. On the north are the 
 Russian settlements in Kamtschatka, and the neighbouring coast; to 
 the north-west the islands of Japan; due west the Marian islands, 
 Manila in the Philippines, and Canton in China; and on the east the 
 coast of California and Mexico. Hence they are so frequently re- 
 eorted to by vessels navigating the northern Pacific. 
 
 The establishment of the independent states of South America has 
 greatly increased their importance, as they lie in the track of vessels 
 passing from thence to China, or Calcutta and other parts of India, 
 and> are not only visited by these, but by those who trade for skins, 
 &c. with the natives of the north-west coast of America. 
 
 VISITS TO HAWAII AFTER DISCOVERY. 
 
 From the time of their discovery, the Sandwich Islands were un- 
 visited until 1786, when Captains Dixon and Portlock, in a trading 
 voyage to the north-west coast for furs and sea-otter skins, anchored, 
 and procured refreshments in the island of Oahu. The island of Maui 
 was visited about the same time by the unfortunate La Perouse. 
 
 After this period the islands were frequently visited by vessels en- 
 gaged in the fur trade. Captain Douglas, of the Iphigenia, and Cap- 
 tain Metcalf, of the Eleanor, an American snow, were nearly cut off 
 by the turbulent chiefs, who were desirous to procure the guns and 
 ammunition belonging to their vessels, to aid them in carrying their 
 purposes of conquest into effect.
 
 35 
 
 DESTRUCTION OF "FAIR AMERICAN" — CAPTURE OF DAVIS AND 
 
 YOUNG. 
 
 The son of the latter, a youth of sixteen, who commanded a schooner, 
 called the Fair American, which accompanied the Eleanor from Can- 
 ton, when close in with the land off Mouna Huararai, was becalmed; 
 the natives thronged on board, threw young Metcalf overboard, seized 
 and plundered the vessel, and murdered all the crew, excepting the 
 mate, whose name was Isaac Davie. He resided many years with 
 Tamehameha, who very severely censured the chief under whose 
 direction this outrage had been committed. 
 
 A seaman whose name is Young, belonging to the Eleanor, who 
 was on shore at the time, was prevented from gaining his vessel, but 
 was kindly treated by the king, and is still living at Towaihae. 
 
 VISIT OF VANCOUVER TO HAWAII. 
 
 In the years 1792 and 1793, Captain Vancouver, while engaged in 
 a voyage of discovery in the North Pacific, spent several months at 
 the Sandwich Islands; and notwithstanding the melancholy catas- 
 trophe which had terminated the life of Captain Cook, whom he had 
 accompanied, and the treacherous designs of the warlike and ambi- 
 tious chiefs towards several of his predecessors, he met with the most 
 friendly treatment from all parties, and received the strongest ex- 
 pressions of confidence from Tamehameha, sovereign of the whole 
 group, who had been wounded in the skirmish that followed the death 
 of their discoverer, but who had ever lamented with deepest regret 
 that melancholy event. 
 
 CESSION OF ISLAND TO ENGLISH BY KAMEHAMEHA. 
 
 He alone had prevented the murderous intentions of his chieftains 
 towards former vessels from being carried into effect; and it was his 
 uniform endeavour to shew every mark of friendship to those who 
 visited his dominions. His attachment to the English induced him, 
 during the stay of Captain Vancouver, to cede the island of Hawaii 
 to the British crown, and to place himself and his dominions under 
 British protection; an act which was repeated by his son, the late 
 king, on his accession to the sovereignty of all the islands. 
 
 The natives received many advantages from the visit of Captain 
 Vancouver; a breed of cattle, and a variety of useful seeds, had been 
 given. Generous and disinterested in his whole behaviour, he secured 
 their friendship and attachment, and many still retain grateful recol- 
 lections of his visit. 
 
 THE SANDAL-WOOD AND WHALING INDUSTRIES. 
 
 After his departure, the islands were seldom resorted to, except 
 by traders from the United States of America, who, having discovered
 
 36 
 
 among them the sandal-wood, conveyed large quantities of it to Can- 
 ton, where it is readily purchased by the Chinese, manufactured into 
 incense, and burnt in their idol temples. 
 
 Subsequently, the South Sea whalers began to fish in the North 
 Pacific, when the Sandwich Islands afforded a convenient rendezvous 
 for refitting and procuring refreshments during their protracted voy- 
 ages, particularly since they have found the sperm whale on the coast 
 of Japan, where of late years the greater parts of their cargoes have 
 been procured. 
 
 ENGLISH MISSION IN THE SOUTH SEAS. 
 
 So early as the year 1796, the London Missionary Society despatched 
 the ship Duff to the South Sea islands; and early in 1797, missionary 
 settlements were established in the Marquesan, Friendly, and Society 
 islands. 
 
 The missionary left at the Marquesas, after spending about a year 
 among the people, returned. 
 
 The establishment in the Friendly Islands was relinquished, though 
 not till some of the individuals of which it was composed had fallen a 
 sacrifice to the fury of the islanders in their intestine wars. 
 
 The missionaries in the Society Islands have been enabled to 
 maintain their ground, though exposed to many dangers and priva- 
 tions, and some ill usage. The greater part of them were at one time 
 obliged to leave the islands, in consequence of violent assaults, and 
 the civil wars among the natives. Several of those who left, returned 
 after a very short absence, and rejoined their companions who had 
 remained, and the labours of the missionaries were continued with 
 patience and industry for fifteen years, from the time of their first 
 establishment, without any apparent effect. 
 
 FINAL SUCCESS OF MISSION. 
 
 After this protracted period of discouragement, God has granted 
 them the most astonishing success; and the happy change in the out- 
 ward circumstances of the people, and the great moral renovation 
 which the reception of the gospel has effected, have more than realized 
 the ardent desires of the missionaries themselves, and the most san- 
 guine anticipations of the friends of the mission. 
 
 But though the effects of the London Missionarj' Society were con- 
 tinued under appearances so inauspicious, with a degree of persever- 
 ance which has since been most amply compensated, various Causes 
 prevented their making any efforts towards communicating the knowl- 
 edge of Christ to the Sandwich islanders. While their southern neigh- 
 bours were enjoying all the advantages of Christianity, they remained 
 under the thick darkness, and moral wretchedness, of one of the most
 
 37 
 
 cruel systems of idolatry that ever enslaved any portion of the human 
 species. 
 
 ESTABLISHMENT OF AMERICAN MISSION IN HAWAII. 
 
 The attention of the American churches was at length directed to 
 the Sandwich Islands. Their sympathies were awakened, and resulted 
 in a generous effort to meliorate the wretchedness of their inhabitants. 
 A society already existed, under the name of the American Board 
 of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, the chief seat of whose opera- 
 tions was in the city of Boston, Massachusetts, though including 
 among its members many distinguished individuals in different states 
 of the Union. 
 
 In the autumn of 1819, a select and efficient band of missionaries 
 was appointed by this society to establish a mission in the Sandwich 
 Islands. They landed at Kairua, in Hawaii, on the 4th of February, 
 1820, and had the satisfaction to find the way in a measure prepared 
 for them, by one of those remarkable events which distinguish the 
 eras in the history of nations, whether barbarous or civilized. This 
 was no other than the abolition of the national idolatry, which, though 
 it was closely interwoven with all the domestic and civil institutions 
 of every class of the inhabitants, upheld by the combined influence of 
 a numerous body of priests, the arbitrary power of warlike chiefs, 
 and the sanction of venerable antiquity, had been publicly and 
 authoritatively prohibited by the king only a few months before their 
 arrival. 
 
 THE KING AND THE MISSIONARIES. 
 
 The motives which influenced the monarch of Hawaii in this deci- 
 sive measure, the war it occasioned, and the consequences which en- 
 sued, are detailed in the following narrative. The missionaries could 
 not but view it as a remarkable interposition of divine Providence in 
 their favour, and a happy prelude to the introduction of that gospel 
 which they had conveyed to these shores. 
 
 They had naturally expected that their landing would be opposed 
 by the institutions of a system, which, however degrading and 
 oppressive in its influence, had presented more than human claims 
 to the support of its adherents, — and to be withstood by a numerous 
 and influential class of priests, whose craft would be endangered so 
 soon as they should present the paramount claims of the true God to 
 the homage of the heart and uniform obedience of the life. 
 
 A NATION WITHOUT A RELIGION. 
 
 Instead of this, they found the laws of the Tabu entirely abrogated, 
 and priests no longer existing as a distinct body, but merged in the 
 other classes of the community.
 
 38 
 
 The whole nation was without any religion, and in this respect at 
 least prepared to receive the dispensation of the gospel, recommended 
 as it was, by an exemption from all the miseries of their former sys- 
 tem, and the animating prospects of life and immortality. 
 
 Notwithstanding this, the missionaries, in the commencement of 
 their efforts to instruct the natives, met with some opposition from 
 misinformed and jealous individuals, who entertained groundless sus- 
 picions as to the ultimate object of their mission. This, however, was 
 overruled by Karaimoku, Keopuolani, and other leading chiefs, and 
 the king willingly allowed them to remain at least for a year. 
 
 They were accompanied by several native youths, whom a roving 
 disposition had induced to visit America, where they had been edu- 
 cated in a school for instructing the aborigines of various heathen 
 nations, designated the Foreign Mission School, and who, having given 
 pleasing evidence of piety, and understanding English, were qualified 
 to act as interpreters, and assist the missionaries in the acquisition of 
 the language. 
 
 CREATING A WRITTEN LANGUAGE. 
 
 The difficult task of settling the orthography of an unwritten lan- 
 guage, required all their energies; but by diligent application, and the 
 help of the elementary books in the dialects of the Society Islands 
 and New Zealand, they were enabled, in the beginning of 1822, to put 
 to press the first sheet of a Hawaiian spelling-book, and to present the 
 natives with the elements of the vernacular tongue in a printed form. 
 
 Schools were established on a scale less extended than the mission- 
 aries desired, but not without advantage, as many of their early 
 scholars made encouraging proficiency, and have since become useful 
 teachers. The more public instructions were generally well received 
 by the people. 
 
 Tamehameha, who had governed the islands thirty years, and whose 
 decease took place not twelve months before their arrival, had in- 
 variably rendered the most prompt and acceptable aid to those English 
 vessels which had touched at the islands. In return for the friend- 
 ship so uniformly manifested, the British government instructed the 
 governor of New South Wales to order a schooner to be built at 
 Port Jackson, and sent as a present to the king of the Sandwich 
 Islands. In the month of February, 1822, his majesty's colonial cut- 
 ter, Mermaid, having in charge the vessel designed for the king of 
 Hawaii, put into the harbour of Huahine for refreshments. The cap- 
 tain of the Mermaid politely offered a passage either to the deputation 
 from the London Missionary Society, then at Huahine, or any of the 
 missionaries who might wish to visit the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 "We had long been anxious to establish a mission among the Mar- 
 quesas; and as he intended touching at those islands on his return,
 
 39 
 
 It appeared a very favourable opportunity for accomplishing it, and 
 at the same time visiting the American missionaries, the intelligence 
 of whose embarkation for Hawaii had been previously received. 
 
 MISSIONARY DELEGATION VISITS HAWAII. 
 
 Two pious natives, members of the church, and one of them a chief 
 of some rank in the islands, were selected for the Marquesas; and I 
 accompanied the deputation on their visit to Hawaii, for the purpose 
 of aiding in the establishment of the native teachers in the former 
 islands, observing how the people were disposed to receive instructors, 
 and obtaining such other information as might be serviceable in 
 directing our future endeavours to maintain permanent missionary 
 stations among them. 
 
 In the month of March we reached the Sandwich Islands, and re- 
 ceived a cordial welcome, not only from the American missionaries, 
 but from the king and chiefs, to whom the generous present of the 
 British government was peculiarly acceptable. 
 
 Shortly after our arrival, a public council of the king and chiefs 
 of Hawaii was held at Oahu. Auna and his companion, from Huahine, 
 were invited to attend, and had an opportunity of answering the in- 
 quiries of the king and chiefs relative to the events which had trans- 
 pired in the Society Islands, and of testifying to the feelings of 
 friendship and esteem entertained by Pomare, and the rulers of those 
 islands, much to the satisfaction of the latter; who were convinced 
 that the reports which had been circulated among them respecting 
 the hostile intentions of the southern islanders, and the dangerous in- 
 fluence of Christian missions there, were totally groundless. 
 
 ELLIS REMAINS IN HAWAII. 
 
 We did not expect, when we first arrived, to spend more than a fort- 
 night or three weeks in the Sandwich Islands; but circumstances un- 
 foreseen, and entirely beyond our control, detained us four months in 
 Oahu. 
 
 In two months I was enabled to converse with facility, and preach 
 to the people in their own language, which I soon perceived was only 
 a dialect of that spoken by the natives of Tahiti, and the neighbour- 
 ing islands. 
 
 Auna and his companion were at the same time diligently and 
 acceptably employed in teaching some chiefs of distinction in Hawaii, 
 who requested that he would relinquish his voyage to the Marquesas, 
 and fix his residence among them; to which he cheerfully consented. 
 
 Several of the principal chiefs also expressed a wish that I should 
 associate with the teachers already engaged in their instruction. The 
 American missionaries at the same time affectionately inviting me to
 
 40 
 
 join them, and the measure meeting the approbation of the deputation, 
 it appeared my duty to comply with their request. 
 
 Early in February, 1S23, I returned to Oaliu with m} r family, ex- 
 perienced a kind reception from the king and chiefs, and was privi- 
 leged to commence my missionary pursuits in harmonious cooperation 
 with my predecessors, the American missionaries, who were diligently 
 employed in their benevolent exertions for the spiritual well-being 
 of the nation; AVOIDING, AS THEY HAVE UNIFOEMLY DONE 
 EVER SINCE, ALL INTERFERENCE WITH THE CIVIL, COM- 
 MERCIAL, AND POLITICAL CONCERNS OF THE PEOPLE, AND 
 ATTENDING- SOLELY TO THEIR INSTRUCTION IN USEFUL 
 KNOWLEDGE AND RELIGIOUS TRUTH. 
 
 EXPLORING EXPEDITION TO HAWAII. 
 
 The difficulties attending the acquisition of the language, and other 
 circumstances, had hitherto confined the labours of the missionaries 
 almost entirely to the islands of Oahu and Tauai; but in April, 1823, 
 a reinforcement arriving from America, enabled them to extend their 
 efforts, particularly towards Maui and Hawaii. 
 
 In order that arrangements for the establishment and permanent 
 maintenance of missionary stations in the latter, the largest, most 
 important, and most populous island of the group, might be made 
 with all the advantages of local knowledge, it was agreed that three 
 of the American missionaries and myself should visit and explore 
 that interesting island, to investigate the religious and moral condi- 
 tion of the people, communicate to them the knowledge of Christ, 
 unfold the benevolent objects of the mission, inquire whether they 
 were willing to receive Christian teachers, and select the most eligi- 
 ble places for missionary stations. 
 
 These, though the principal, were not the only objects that occu- 
 pied our attention during the tour. We availed ourselves of the 
 opportunities it afforded to make observations on the structure 
 of the island, its geographical character, natural scenery, produc- 
 tions, and objects of curiosity; and to become more fully acquainted 
 with the peculiar features of the system of idolatry, the traditions, 
 manners, and customs of the inhabitants, — a detailed account of which 
 is given in the following narrative. 
 
 HAWAIIAN ORTHOGRAPHY EXPLAINED. 
 
 Before entering upon the tour, a few remarks on the orthography 
 of the Hawaiian names which are occasionally introduced, explain- 
 ing the reasons for its adoption, and assisting in the pronunciation of 
 native words, will probably be acceptable to most of our readers. 
 
 The visits which most foreigners have paid to the Sandwich and 
 other islands of the Pacific, have been too transient to allow them,
 
 41 
 
 however well qualified they may have been, to become acquainted 
 with the nice distinction of vowel sounds, and peculiar structure, of 
 the aboriginal languages of the islands; and those individuals whom 
 purposes of commerce have induced to remain a longer period among 
 them, whatever facility they may have acquired in speaking it, have 
 not attended to its orthographical construction, but have adopted that 
 method of spelling names of persons and places which happen to have 
 been used by those of their predecessors, with whose printed accounts 
 they were most familiar. 
 
 The want of a standard orthography cannot be better illustrated, 
 than by noticing the great variety of methods adopted by different 
 voyagers to represent the same word. 
 
 SPELLING OF HAWAIIAN NAMES. 
 
 We have seen the name of Tamehameha, the late king, spelt in 
 various publications twelve or fourteen different ways; and the same 
 variety has also prevailed in other popular names, though perhaps not 
 to an equal extent. The above word is a reduplication of the simple 
 word meha, (lonely, or solitary,) with the definite article Ta pre- 
 fixed, which is a part of the name; though rejected in Cook's Voy- 
 ages, where he is called Maihamaiha. Captain Vancouver calls him 
 Tamaahmaah, which is somewhat nearer. 
 
 This disagreement in different writers arises, in the first place, from 
 the deficiency in the vowel characters as used in the English lan- 
 guage, for expressing the native vowel sounds. 
 
 The English language has but one sign, or letter, for the vowel 
 sound in the first syllable of father and fable, or the words tart and 
 tale; but in Hawaiian the sense of these sounds, which frequently 
 occur unconnected with any other, is so different, that a distinct char- 
 acter is essential. 
 
 The first sound is often a distinct word, and frequently marks the 
 future tense of the verb, while the second sound distinguishes the 
 past, and is also a distinct word. These two sounds often occur to- 
 gether, forming two distinct syllables, as in the interrogation e-a? 
 what? and the word he-a, to call. 
 
 In the English language, two letters, called double vowels, are used 
 to lengthen the same sound, as ee in thee, or to express one totally 
 different, as oo in pool; but in Hawaiian there is often a repetition of 
 the vowel sound, without any intervening consonant, or other vowel 
 sound, as in a-a, a bag or pocket, e-e, to embark, i-i, a name of a 
 bird, o-o, an agricultural instrument; which must be sounded as two 
 distinct syllables. 
 
 Hence when the ee is employed to express a lengthened sound of e, 
 as in Owhyhee, and oo to signify the sound of u in rule, as in Kara-
 
 42 
 
 kakooa, which is generally done by European visitors; it is not possi- 
 ble to express by any signs those native words in which the double 
 vowels occur, which are invariably two distinct syllables. 
 
 IGNORANCE OP CONSTRUCTION OP LANGUAGE. 
 
 Another cause of the incorrectness of the orthography of early 
 voyagers to these islands, has been a want of better acquaintance 
 with the structure of the language, which would have prevented their 
 substituting a compound for a single word. 
 
 This is the case in the words Otaheiti, Otaha, and Owhyhee, which 
 ought to be Tahiti, Tahaa, and Hawaii. 
 
 The O is no part of these words, but is the sign of the case, denot- 
 ing it to be the nominative answering to the question who or what, 
 which would be O wai? 
 
 The sign of the case being prefixed to the interrogation, the answer 
 uniformly corresponds, as, 
 
 Nom. O wai ia aina? — What that land? 
 
 Ans. O Hawaii: — Hawaii. 
 Pos. No hea oe? — Of whence you? 
 
 Ans. No Hawaii: — Of or belonging to Hawaii. 
 Obj. Hoe oe i hea? — Sailing you to where? 
 
 Ans. I Hawaii: — To Hawaii. 
 
 Mai hea mai oe? — From whence you? 
 
 Ans. Mai Hawaii mai: — From Hawaii. 
 
 In pronouncing the word Ha-wai-i, the Ha is sounded short as in 
 Hah, the wai as wye, and the final i as e in me. 
 
 COOK AND VANCOUVER'S SPELLING. 
 
 A.tooi in Cook's voyages, Atowai in Vancouver's, and Atoui in one 
 of his contemporaries, is also a compound of two words, a Tauai, liter- 
 ally, and Tauai. 
 
 The meaning of the word tauai is to light upon, or to dry in the 
 sun; and the name, according to the account of the late king, was 
 derived from the long droughts which sometimes prevailed, or the 
 large pieces of timber which have been occasionally washed upon its 
 shores. 
 
 Being the most leeward island of importance, it was probably the 
 last inquired of, or the last name repeated by the people to the first 
 visitors. For should the natives be pointed to the group, and asked 
 the names of the different islands, beginning with that farthest to 
 windward, and proceeding west, they would say, O Hawaii, Maui, 
 Eanai, Morotai, Oahu a (and) Tauai: the copulative conjunction pre- 
 ceding the last member of the sentence, would be placed immediately 
 before Tauai; and hence, in all probability, it has been attached to
 
 43 
 
 the name of that island, which has usually been written, after Cook's 
 orthography, Atooi; or Atowai, after Vancouver. 
 
 The more intelligent among the natives, particularly the chiefs, fre- 
 quently smile at the manner of spelling the names of places and per- 
 sons, in published accounts of the islands, which they occasionally 
 see, and doubtless wonder how we can employ two letters of the same 
 kind to express two distinct sounds, as aa, for the sound of a in mark, 
 and a in make; or oo for a sound so distinct as u. 
 
 PRONUNCIATION OF HAWAIIAN NAMES. 
 
 The orthography employed in the native names which occur in the 
 succeeding narrative, is in accordance with the power or sound of the 
 letters composing the Hawaiian alphabet, and the words are rep- 
 resented as nearly as possible to the manner in which they are pro- 
 nounced by the natives. 
 
 A is always as a in father, or shorter as a in the first syllable of aha, 
 e as a in hate, i as i in machine, ee in thee, o as o in note, u as oo 
 in food, or short as in bull, and the diphthong ai as i in wine or mine. 
 The consonants are sounded as in English. 
 
 The native words may be correctly pronounced by attending to the 
 above sounds of the vowels. 
 
 The following list of the principal names will likewise assist in the 
 proper pronunciation of Hawaiian words. The h is inserted after 
 the a, only to secure that vowel's being sounded as in the exclama- 
 tion ah! 
 
 PLACES. 
 
 Ha-wai, pronounced as Ha wye e 
 
 O-a-hu O-ah-hoo 
 
 Tau-ai Tow-i, or Tow-eye 
 
 Mau-i Mow-e 
 
 Kai-ru-a Ky-roo-ah 
 
 Ke-a-ra-ke-ku-a Kay-a-ra-kay-koo-ah 
 
 Wai-a-ke-a Wye-ah-kay-ah 
 
 Wai-pi-o Wye-pe-o 
 
 Ki-rau-ea Ke-row-ay-ah 
 
 Pu-ho-nu-a Poo-ho-noo-ah 
 
 Mou-na-hu-a-ra-rai . . . Mow-nah-hoo-ah-ra-rye 
 
 Mou-na Eo-a Mow-nah Eo-ah 
 
 Mou-na Ke-a Mow-nah Kay-ah 
 
 Ka-a-va-ro-a Kah-ah-vah-ro-ah
 
 44 
 
 PERSONS. 
 
 Ta-me-ha-me-ha Ta-me-hah-me-hah 
 
 Bi-ho-ri-lio Ree-ho-ree-ho 
 
 Ta-u-mu-a-ri-i Ta-oo-moo-ah-re-e 
 
 Ka-a-hu-ma-nu Ka-ah-hoo-ma-noo 
 
 Ke-o-pu-o-la-ni Kay-o-poo-o-lah-ne 
 
 Ku-a-ki-ni Koo-ah-ke-ne 
 
 Ka-rai-mo-ku Ka-rye-mo-koo 
 
 Bo-ki Bo-ke 
 
 Li-li-ha Le-le-hah 
 
 Mau-ae Mow-aye 
 
 Ma-ko-a Ma-ko-ah 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 THE TRIP TO HAWAII BEGINS. 
 
 Taumuarii, the friendly king of Tauai, having generously offered 
 the missionaries chosen to make the tour of Hawaii, (Owhyhee,) a 
 passage in one of his vessels bound from Oahu to Kairua; Messrs. 
 Thurston, Bishop, and Goodrich, repaired on board in the afternoon 
 of June 24, 1823. They were accompanied by Mr. Harwood, an in- 
 genious mechanic, whom curiosity, and a desire to assist them, had 
 induced to join their party. The indisposition of Mrs. Ellis prevented 
 my proceeding in the same vessel, but I hoped to follow in a few 
 days. 
 
 At 4 p. m. the brig was under weigh, standing to the S. E. Having 
 clearing the bar, and the reefs at the entrance of the harbour, the 
 trade-wind blowing fresh from the N. E. they were soon out of sight 
 of Honoruru. They passed the islands of Morokai, Ranai, and the 
 principal part of Maui (Mowee) during the night, and at daybreak 
 on the 25th were off Tahaurawe, a small island on the south side of 
 Maui. 
 
 The Haaheo Hawaii, (Pride o Hawaii,) another native vessel, for- 
 merly the Cleopatra's barge, soon after hove in sight; she did not, 
 however, come up with them, but tacked, and stood for Lahaina. In 
 the evening, the wind, usually fresh in the channel between Maui and 
 Hawaii, blew so strong, that they were obliged to lay-to for about 
 three hours; when it abated, and allowed them to proceed. 
 
 A QUICK TRIP TO KAILUA. 
 
 On the 26th, at 4 p. m., the vessel came to anchor in Kairua bay. 
 The missionaries soon after went on shore, grateful for the speedy 
 and comfortable passage with which they had been favoured, having 
 been only forty-nine hours from Oahu, which is about 150 miles to
 
 MAP OF 
 
 THE LARGEST OF THE 
 
 SANDWICH ISLANDS: 
 
 Improved, from Vancouver's Survey. 
 
 
 n 
 
 r
 
 45 
 
 the leeward of Kairua. They were heartily welcomed by the gov- 
 ernor, Kuakini, usually called by the foreigners, John Adams, from 
 his having adopted the name of a former president of the United 
 States of America. They took tea with him; and after expressing 
 their gratitude to God in the native language with the governor and 
 his family, retired to rest in an apartment kindly furnished for them 
 in his own house. 
 
 The next morning their baggage was removed from the vessel, and 
 deposited in a small comfortable house, formerly belonging to Tameha- 
 rneka, but which the governor directed them to occupy so long as they 
 should remain at Kairua. He also politely invited them to his table, 
 during their stay; in consequence of which, without forgetting their 
 character, they sat down to their morning repast. 
 
 Their breakfast room presented a singular scene. They were seated 
 around a small table with the governor and one or two of his friends, 
 who, in addition to the coffee, fish, vegetables, &c, with which it was 
 furnished, had a large wooden bowl of poe, a sort of thin paste made 
 of baked taro, beat up and diluted with water, placed by the side of 
 their plates, from which they frequently took very hearty draughts. 
 
 Two favourite lap-dogs sat on the same sofa with the governor, one 
 on his right hand and the other on his left, and occasionally received 
 a bit from his hand, or the fragments on the plate from which he 
 had eaten. 
 
 A number of his punahele, (favourite chiefs,) and some occasional 
 visitors, sat in circles on the floor, around large dishes of raw fish, 
 baked hog, or dog, or goat, from which each helped himself without 
 ceremony, while a huge calabash of poe passed rapidly round among 
 them. They became exceedingly loquacious and cheerful during their 
 meal; and several who had been silent before, now laughed loud, and 
 joined with spirit in the mirth of their companions. 
 
 Neat wooden dishes of water were handed to the governor and his 
 friends, both before and after eating, in which they washed their 
 hands. 
 
 Uncivilized nations are seldom distinguished by habits of cleanli- 
 ness; but this practice, we believe, is an ancient custom, generally 
 observed by the chiefs, and all the higher orders of the people, 
 throughout the islands. 
 
 SCARCITY OF WATEB AT KAILUA. 
 
 Kairua, though healthy and populous, is destitute of fresh water, 
 except what is found in pools, or small streams, in the mountains, four 
 or five miles from the shore. An article so essential to the main- 
 tenance of a missionary station, it was desirable to procure, if pos- 
 sible, nearer at hand. The late king Tamohameha used frequently to
 
 48 
 
 beg a cask of water from the captains of vessels touching at Kairua; 
 and it is one of the most acceptable presents a captain going to this 
 station could make, either to the chiefs or missionaries. As soon 
 therefore as breakfast was ended, the party walked through the dis- 
 trict in a south-east direction, to examine the ground, with a view 
 to discover the most eligible place for digging a well. 
 
 The whole face of the country marked decisively its volcanic origin; 
 and in the course of their excursion they entered several hollows in 
 the lava, formed by its having cooled and hardened on the surface, 
 while, in a liquid state underneath, it had continued to flow towards 
 the sea. leaving a crust in the shape of a tunnel, or arched vault, of 
 varied thickness and extent. 
 
 THE LANIAKEA CAVE. 
 
 Before they returned, they also explored a celebrated cavern in the 
 vicinity, called Eaniakea. After entering it by a small aperture, they 
 passed on in a direction nearly parallel with the surface; sometimes 
 along a spacious arched way, not less than twenty-five feet high and 
 twenty wide; at other times, by a passage so narrow, that they could 
 with difficulty press through, till they had proceeded about 1200 feet; 
 here their progress was arrested by a pool of water, wide, deep, and 
 as salt as that found in the hollows of the lava within a few yards of 
 the sea. This latter circumstance, in a great degree, damped their 
 hopes of finding fresh water by digging through the lava. 
 
 More than thirty natives, most of them carrying torches, accom- 
 panied them in their descent; and on arriving at the water, simul- 
 taneously plunged in, extending their torches with one hand, and 
 swimming about with the other. 
 
 The partially illuminated heads of the natives, splashing about in 
 this subterranean lake; the reflection of the torch-light on its agitated 
 surface; the frowning sides and lofty arch of the black vault, hung 
 with lava, that had cooled in every imaginable shape; the deep gloom 
 of the cavern beyond the water; the hollow sound of their footsteps; 
 and the varied reverberations of their voices, produced a singular 
 effect; and it would have required but little aid from the fancy, to 
 have imagined a resemblance between this scene and the fabled 
 Stygian lake of the poets. 
 
 The mouth of the cave is about half a mile from the sea, and the 
 perpendicular depth to the water probably not less than fifty or sixty 
 feet. The pool is occasionally visited by the natives, for the purpose 
 of bathing, as its water is cool and refreshing. From its ebbing and 
 flowing with the tide, it has probably a direct communication with 
 the sea.
 
 47 
 
 HUALALAI IN ERUPTION. 
 
 In the afternoon, Messrs. Thurston and Bishop walked out in a 
 N.W. direction, till they reached the point that forms the northern 
 boundary of the bay, on the eastern side of which Kairua is situated. 
 It runs three or four miles into the sea; is composed entirely of lava; 
 and was formed by an eruption from one of the large craters on the 
 top of Mouna Huararai, (Mount Huararai,) which, about twenty-three 
 years ago, inundated several villages, destroyed a number of planta- 
 tions and extensive fish-ponds, filled up a deep bay twenty miles in 
 length, and formed the present coast. 
 
 An Englishman, who has resided thirty-eight years in the islands, 
 and who witnessed the above eruption, has frequently told us he was 
 astonished at the irresistible impetuosity of the torrent. 
 
 Stone walls, trees, and houses, all gave way before it; even large 
 masses or rocks of hard ancient lava, when surrounded by the fiery 
 stream, soon split into small fragments, and falling into the burn- 
 ing mass, appeared to melt again, as borne by it down the mountain's 
 side. 
 
 Numerous offerings were presented, and many hogs thrown alive 
 into the stream, to appease the anger of the gods, by whom they 
 supposed it was directed, and to stay its devastating course. 
 
 All seemed unavailing, until one day the king Tamehameha went, 
 attended by a large retinue of chiefs and priests, and, as the most 
 valuable offering he could make, cut off part of his own hair, which 
 was always considered sacred, and threw it into the torrent. 
 
 A day or two after, the lava ceased to flow. The gods, it was 
 thought, were satisfied; and the king acquired no small degree of in- 
 fluence over the minds of the people, who, from this circumstance, 
 attributed their escape from threatened destruction to his supposed 
 interest with the deities of the volcanoes. 
 
 In several places they observed that the sea rushes with violence 
 twenty or thirty yards along the cavities beneath the lava, and then, 
 forcing its waters through the apertures in the surface, forms a num- 
 ber of beautiful jets d 'eau, which falling again on the rocks, roll 
 rapidly back to the ocean. 
 
 SUBURBS OF KAILUA DESCRIBED. 
 
 They enjoyed a fine view of the town and adjacent country. The 
 houses, which are neat, are generally built on the sea-shore, shaded 
 with cocoa-nut and kou trees, which greatly enliven the scene. 
 
 The environs were cultivated to a considerable extent; small gar- 
 dens were seen among the barren rocks on which the houses are built, 
 wherever soil could be found sufficient to nourish the sweet potato, 
 the water melon, or even a few plants of tobacco, and in many places
 
 48 
 
 these seemed to be growing literally in the fragments of lava, col- 
 lected in small heaps around their roots. 
 
 The next morning, Messrs. Thurston, Goodrich, and Harwood, walked 
 towards the mountains, to visit the high and cultivated parts of the 
 district. After travelling over the lava lor about a mile, the hollows 
 in the rocks began to be filled with a light brown soil; and about half 
 a mile further, the surface was entirely covered with a rich mould, 
 formed by decayed vegetable matter and decomposed lava. 
 
 Here they enjoyed the agreeable shade of bread-fruit and ohia 
 trees; the latter is a deciduous plant, a variety of eugenia, resembling 
 the eugenia malaccensis, bearing a beautifully red pulpy fruit, of the 
 size and consistence of an apple, juicy, but rather insipid to the taste. 
 The trees are elegant in form, and grow to the height of twenty or 
 thirty feet; the leaf is oblong and pointed, and the flowers are at- 
 tached to the branches by a short stem. The fruit is abundant, and 
 is generally ripe, either on different places in the same island, or on 
 different islands, during all the summer months. 
 
 INLAND CULTIVATION. 
 
 The path now lay through a beautiful part of the country, quite a 
 garden compared with that through which they had passed on first 
 leaving the town. It was generally divided into small fields, about 
 fifteen rods square, fenced with low stone walls, built with fragments 
 of lava gathered from the surface of the enclosures. These fields 
 were planted w r ith bananas, sweet potatoes, mountain taro, paper mul- 
 berry plants, melons, and sugar-cane, which flourished luxuriantly in 
 every direction. 
 
 Having travelled about three or four miles through this delightful 
 region, and passed several valuable pools of fresh water, they arrived 
 at the thick woods, which extend several miles up the sides of the 
 lofty mountain that rises immediately behind Kairua. 
 
 Among the various plants and trees that now presented themselves, 
 they were much pleased with a species of tree ferns, whose stipes were 
 about five feet long, and the stem about fourteen feet high, and one 
 foot in diameter. 
 
 A smart shower of rain (a frequent occurrence in the mountains) 
 arrested their further progress, and obliged them to return to their 
 lodgings, where they arrived about five in the afternoon, gratified, 
 though fatigued, by their excursion. 
 
 Mr. Bishop called on Thomas Hopu, the native teacher, who has 
 for some time resided at Kairua, and was pleased to find him patient 
 under the inconveniences to which his situation necessarily subjects 
 him, and anxious to promote the best interests of his countrymen. 
 
 29th. The Sabbath morning dawned upon the missionaries at Kai-
 
 49 
 
 rua under circumstances unusually animating, and they prepared to 
 spend this holy day in extending, as widely as possible, their labours 
 among the benighted people around them. 
 
 Mr. Thurston preached in the native language twice at the gov- 
 ernor's house, to attentive audiences. Mr. Bishop and Thomas Hopu 
 proceeded early in the morning to Kaavaroa, a village about fourteen 
 miles distant, on the north side of Kearake 'kua, (Karakakooa,) where 
 they arrived at 11 a. m. 
 
 KAMAKAU, A BENEFICENT CHIEF. 
 
 Kamakau, chief of the place, received them with many expressions 
 of gladness, led them to his house, and provided some refreshments; 
 after which, they walked together to a ranai, (house of cocoa-nut 
 leaves.) which he had some time ago erected for the public worship of 
 Jehovah. Here they found about a hundred of his people assembled, 
 and waiting their arrival. 
 
 Mr. Bishop, with the aid of Thomas, preached to them from 
 John iii:16, and endeavoured in the most familiar manner to set be- 
 fore them the great love of God in sending his Son to die for sinners, 
 and the necessity of forsaking sin, and believing on him, in order 
 to eternal life. 
 
 Towards the latter part of the discourse, the preacher was inter- 
 rupted by Kamakau, who, anxious that his people might receive the 
 greatest possible benefit by the word spoken, began earnestly to ex- 
 hort them to listen and regard, telling them, their salvation depended 
 on their attention to the truths which they heard. After the service 
 was concluded, he again addressed them, affectionately recommending 
 them to consider these things. 
 
 Kamakau wished them to meet with the people again, but as the 
 day was far spent, they thought it best to return. He then told them, 
 that after their departure he should assemble his people, and repeat 
 to them what they had heard. He asked many questions on religious 
 subjects, several respecting the heavenly state; and appeared in- 
 terested in the answers that were given; especially when informed that 
 heaven was a holy place, into which nothing sinful could enter. 
 
 A DISCARDED IDOL. 
 
 As they went from his house to the beach, they passed by a large' 
 idol, that Kamakau had formerly worshipped, lying prostrate and 
 mutilated on the rocks, and washed by the waves of the sea as they 
 rolled on the shore. It was a huge log of wood, rudely carved, present- 
 ing a hideous form, well adapted to infuse terror into an ignorant 
 and superstitious mind. 
 
 On his being asked why he had worshipped that log of wood? he 
 answered, — because he was afraid he would destroy his cocoa-nuts.
 
 50 
 
 But were you not afraid to destroy it? "No, I found he did me 
 neither good nor harm. I thought he was no god, and threw him 
 away." Bidding him farewell, they stepped into their canoe, and 
 returned to Kairua, where they arrived in the evening, encouraged 
 by the incidents of the day. 
 
 Kamakau is a chief of considerable rank and influence in Hawaii, 
 though not immediately connected with any of the reigning family. 
 He is cousin to Naihe, the friend and companion of Tamehameha, and 
 the principal national orator of the Sandwich Islands. His person, 
 like that of the chiefs in general, is noble and engaging. He is about 
 six feet, high, stout, well-proportioned, and more intelligent and en- 
 terprising than the people around him. For some time past he has 
 established family worship in his house, and the observance of the 
 Sabbath throughout his district; having erected a place for the pub- 
 lic worship of the true God, in which, every Lord's day, he assembles 
 his people for the purpose of exhortation and prayer, which he con- 
 ducts himself. 
 
 He is able to read, writes an easy and legible hand, has a general 
 knowledge of the first principles of Christianity, and, what is infi- 
 nitely better, appears to feel their power on his heart, and evince 
 their purity in his general conduct. His attainments are truly sur- 
 prising, manifesting a degree of industry and perseverance rarely dis- 
 played under similar circumstances. 
 
 His sources of information have been very limited. An occasional 
 residence of a few weeks at Honoruru, one or two visits of the mis- 
 sionaries and of some of the native teachers to his house, and letters 
 from Naihe, are the chief advantages he has enjoyed. 
 
 He appears, indeed, a modern Cornelius, and is a striking manifesta- 
 tion of the sovereignty of that grace of which we trust he has been 
 made a partaker; and we rejoice in the pleasing hope that He who has 
 "begun a good work, will perform it until the day of Christ." 
 
 INCIDENTS OF LIFE AT KAILUA. 
 
 In the forenoon of the first of July, two posts of observation were 
 fixed, and a base line of 200 feet was measured, in order to ascertain 
 the height of Mouna Huararai; but the summit being covered with 
 clouds, they were obliged to defer their observation. 
 
 In the afternoon they walked through the S. E. part of the town to 
 select a spot in which to dig for fresh water. After an accurate 
 investigation of the places adjacent, in which they thought it might be 
 found, they chose a valley, about half a mile from the residence of 
 the governor, and near the entrance of Eaniakea, as the spot where 
 they were most likely to meet with success. 
 
 The 4th of July being the anniversary of the American independ- 
 ence, guns were fired at the fort, the colours hoisted, and a hospitable
 
 51 
 
 entertainment given at the governor's table. The missionaries em- 
 ployed the greater part of the day at the well, which early in the 
 morning they had commenced. 
 
 In the evening, while at tea, considerable attention was attracted by 
 a slender man, with a downcast look, in conversation with the gov- 
 ernor. 
 
 It afterwards appeared, that this was a stranger, from Maui, who 
 wished to be thought a prophet, affirming that he was inspired by a 
 shark, that enabled him to tell future events. The governor said, 
 many of the people believed in him, and from them he obtained a 
 living. 
 
 The excavations of the well proceeded but slowly during the next 
 day. Hard and closely imbedded lava rendered the work difficult. 
 But as the governor promises assistance, they are encouraged to pro- 
 ceed. 
 
 RELIGIOUS INSTRUCTION IMPARTED. 
 
 The next day being the Sabbath, Mr. Bishop preached twice at the 
 governor's house, Thomas Hopu acting as interpreter. The congre- 
 gation consisted principally of Kuakini's attendants and domestics, 
 the greater part of the population conceiving themselves under no 
 obligation to hear preaching, as they do not know how to read; pre- 
 tending, that ignorance exempts them from all obligation to attend 
 religious exercises. 
 
 Leaving Kairua early, in a canoe with four men, provided by the 
 governor, Messrs. Thurston and Goodrich reached Kaavaroa about 
 nine o'clock in the morning. Kamakau was waiting for them, and 
 seemed to rejoice at their arrival. He led them to his house, and 
 provided them with a frugal breakfast, after which they repaired in 
 company to the ranai for public worship. On reaching it, they found 
 about one hundred of the people already there. Before the service 
 commenced, the chief arose, directed them to remain quiet, and pay 
 the greatest attention to the word of life, which they were about to 
 hear. 
 
 Shortly after the conclusion of the service, the missionaries passed 
 over Kearake'kua bay, in a canoe, landed on the opposite side, and 
 walked along the shore about a mile, to Karama. Here, in a large 
 house, they collected about three hundred people; to whom Mr. Thurs- 
 ton preached, and was pleased with the interest they manifested. 
 Some who stood near the speaker, repeated the whole discourse, sen- 
 tence by sentence, in a voice too low to create disturbance, yet loud 
 enough to be distinctly heard. 
 
 There were seven or eight American and English seamen present, 
 who requested that they might be addressed in their own language. 
 Mr. Goodrich accordingly preached to them from Rev. iii. 120.
 
 52 
 
 REMINISCENCES OF CAPT. COOK. 
 
 Returning from Karama to the southern side of Kearake'kua bay, 
 w here they had left their canoe, they passed the ruins of an old heiau, 
 the morai mentioned in Captain Cook's voyage, where the obser- 
 vatory was erected. 
 
 The remaining walls were one hundred feet long and fifteen high, 
 and the space within was strewed with animal and human bones, the 
 relics of the sacrifices once offered there; a scene truly affecting to 
 a Christian mind. 
 
 Leaving this melancholy spot, they returned in their canoe to Kaava- 
 roa: and when the people had assembled in the ranai, Mr. Thurston 
 preached to them from Psalm cxviii. 24. This is the day the Lord 
 hath made: we will rejoice and be glad in it. 
 
 About sun-set, Mr. Goodrich ascended a neighbouring height, and 
 visited the spot where the body of the unfortunate Captain Cook was 
 cut to pieces, and the flesh, after being separated from the bones, 
 was burnt. It is a small enclosure, about fifteen feet square, sur- 
 rounded by a wall five feet high; within is a kind of hearth, raised 
 about eighteen inches from the ground, and encircled by a curb of 
 rude stones. Here the fire was kindled on the above occasion; and 
 the place is still strewed with charcoal. The natives mention the in- 
 terment of another foreigner on this spot; but could not tell to what 
 country he belonged, or the name of the vessel in which he waa 
 brought. 
 
 MISSION ASSISTED BY KAMAKAU. 
 
 Kamakau and his people had interested his visitors so much, that 
 they determined to spend the night at his house. After supper, the 
 members of the family, with the domestics and one or two strangers, 
 met for evening worship: a hymn was sung in the native language, 
 and Kamakau himself engaged in prayer with great fervour and 
 propriety. He prayed particularly for the king, chiefs, and people, 
 of Hawaii, and the neighbouring islands; and for the missionaries, 
 who had brought the good word of salvation to them. 
 
 The brethren were surprised to hear him use so much evangelical 
 language in prayer. During the conversation of the evening, he ex- 
 pressed a desire, which has since been gratified, that a missionary 
 might reside in his neighbourhood, that he and his people might be 
 instructed in the word of God; might learn to read and write, and 
 become acquainted with what the missionaries were teachings at the 
 stations where they dwelt. He is about fifty years of age, and re- 
 gretted exceedingly, as many others have also done, that he was so far 
 advanced in life before the missionaries arrived at the islands. 
 
 The Sabbath passed away pleasantly, and, it is to be hoped, pro- 
 fitably, both to the interesting inhabitants of the place, and their
 
 53 
 
 guests; and the latter retired to rest, animated and encouraged by 
 what they had that day witnessed. Early next morning they set out 
 for Kairua, where they arrived about nine o'clock in the forenoon. 
 
 Unable to proceed with the well for want of proper instruments 
 with which to drill the rocks, the greater part of this day was spent 
 in ascertaining the population of Kairua. 
 
 Numbering the houses for one mile along the coast, they found them, 
 to be 529; and allowing an average of five persons to each house, the 
 inhabitants in Kairua will amount to 2645 persons. This certainly 
 does not exceed the actual population, as few of the houses are small, 
 and many of them large, containing two or three families each. 
 
 The varied and strongly marked volcanic surface of the higher 
 parts of the mountain called Mouna Huararai, in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood of Kairua; the traditional accounts given by the natives of 
 the eruptions, which, from craters on its summit, had in different ages 
 deluged the low land along the coast; the thick woods that skirt its 
 base, and the numerous feathered tribes inhabiting them, rendered it 
 an interesting object, and induced the travellers to commence its 
 ascent. 
 
 About eight o'clock in the morning of the 9th, they left Kairua, 
 accompanied by three men, whom they had engaged to conduct them 
 to the summit. Having travelled about twelve miles in a northerly 
 direction, they arrived at the last house on the western side of the 
 mountain. Here their guides wished to remain for the night; and on 
 being urged to proceed, as it was not more than three o'clock in the 
 afternoon, declared they did not know the way, and had never been 
 beyond the spot where they then were. Notwithstanding this dis- 
 appointment, it was determined to proceed. Leaving the path, the 
 party began to ascend in a S.E. direction, and travelled about six 
 miles, over a rough and difficult road, sometimes across streams of 
 hard lava, full of fissures and chasms, at other times through thick 
 brushwood, or high ferns, so closely interwoven as almost to arrest 
 their progress. 
 
 CAMPING ON IIUALALAI. 
 
 Arriving at a convenient place, and finding themselves fatigued, 
 drenched also with the frequent showers, and the wet grass through 
 which they had walked, they proposed to pitch their tent for the 
 night. A temporary hut was erected with branches of the neighbour- 
 ing trees, and covered with the leaves of the tall ferns that grew 
 around them. At one end of it they lighted a large fire, and, after 
 the rains had abated, dried their clothes, partook of the refreshments 
 they had brought with them, and, having commended themselves to 
 the kind protection of their heavenly Guardian, spread fern leaves
 
 54 
 
 and grass upon the lava, and lay down to repose. The thermometer, 
 which is usually about 84° on the shore, stood at 60° in the hut 
 \\ln> re they slept. 
 
 The singing of the birds in the surrounding woods ushering in the 
 early dawn, and the cool temperature of the pure mountain air, ex- 
 cited a variety of pleasing sensations in the minds of all the party, 
 when they awoke in the morning, after a comfortable night's rest. 
 The thermometer, when placed outside of the hut, stood at 46°. 
 
 Having united in their morning sacrifice of thanksgiving to God, 
 and taken a light breakfast, they resumed their laborious journey. 
 The road, lying through thick underwood and fern, was wet and 
 fatiguing for about two miles, when they arrived at an ancient stream 
 of lava, about twenty rods wide, running in a direction nearly west. 
 Ascending the hardened surface of this stream of lava, over deep 
 chasms, or large volcanic stones imbedded in it, for a distance of 
 three or four miles, they reached the top of one of the ridges on the 
 western side of the mountain. 
 
 BERRIES AND CRATERS ON HUALALAI. 
 
 As they travelled along, they met with tufts of strawberries, and 
 clusters of raspberry bushes, loaded with fruit, which, as they were 
 both hungry and thirsty, were very acceptable. The strawberries had 
 rather an insipid taste; the raspberries were white and large, fre- 
 quently an inch in diameter, but not so sweet or well-flavoured as 
 those cultivated in Europe and America. 
 
 Between nine and ten in the forenoon they arrived at a large ex- 
 tinguished crater, about a mile in circumference, and apparently 400 
 feet deep, probably the same that was visited by some of Vancouver's 
 people, in 1792. The sides sloped regularly, and at the bottom was a 
 small mound, with an aperture in its centre. By the side of this large 
 crater, divided from it by a narrow ridge of volcanic rocks, was 
 another, fifty-six feet in circumference, from which volumes of sul- 
 phureous smoke and vapour continually ascended. No bottom could 
 be seen; and on throwing stones into it, they were heard to strike 
 against its sides for eight seconds, but not to reach the bottom. There 
 were two other apertures near this, nine feet in diameter, and appar- 
 ently about 200 feet deep. 
 
 As the party walked along the giddy verge of the large crater, they 
 could distinguish the course of two principal streams, that had issued 
 from it in the great eruption, about the year 1800. One had taken a 
 direction nearly north-east; the other had flowed to the north-west, in 
 broad irresistible torrents, for a distance of twelve or fifteen miles 
 to the sea, where, driving back the waters, it had extended the boun- 
 daries of the island. They attempted to descend this crater, but the
 
 55 
 
 steepness of its sides prevented their examining it so fully as they 
 desired. 
 
 After spending some time there, they walked along the ridge be- 
 tween three and four miles, and examined sixteen different craters, 
 similar in construction to the first they had met with, though generally 
 of smaller dimensions. 
 
 The whole ridge, along which they walked, appeared little else than 
 a continued line of craters, which, in different ages, had deluged the 
 valleys below with floods of lava, or showers of burning cinders. 
 Some of these craters appeared to have reposed for ages, as trees of 
 considerable size were growing on their sides, and many of them were 
 covered with earth, and clothed with verdure. 
 
 In the vicinity of the craters they found a number of small bushes, 
 bearing red berries in crowded clusters, which, in size and shape, 
 much resembled whortleberries; though insipid, they were juicy, and 
 supplied the place of fresh water, a comfort they had been destitute 
 of since the preceding evening. 
 
 RETURN TRIP FROM HUALALAI. 
 
 They continued ascending till three p. m. when, having suffered 
 much from thirst, and finding they should not be able to reach the 
 highest peak before dark, the sky also being overcast, and the rain 
 beginning to fall, they judged it best to return to Kairua, without 
 having reached the summit of Mouna Huararai; particularly as they 
 were somewhat scattered, and found difficulty in pursuing the most 
 direct way, on account of the thick fog which surrounded the 
 mountain. 
 
 On their return they found the aid of their pocket compass neces- 
 sary to enable them to regain the path by which they had ascended 
 in the morning. 
 
 After travelling some time, they beheld with gladness the sun break- 
 ing through the fog in which they had been so long enveloped, and, 
 looking over the clouds that rolled at their feet, saw him gradually 
 sink behind the western wave of the wide extended ocean. 
 
 The appearance of the sky, at the setting of the sun, in a tropical 
 climate, is usually beautiful and splendid; it was so this evening; and 
 from their great elevation, the party viewed with delight the mag- 
 nificent yet transient glories of the closing day. 
 
 They travelled about three miles further, when, being wet with the 
 fog, and weary with travelling, they erected a hut on the lava, and 
 encamped for the night. They succeeded in making a good fire, dried 
 their clothes, and then sat down to partake of the little refreshment 
 that was left. It consisted of a small quantity of hard taro paste, 
 called by the natives ai paa. A little water would have been agree-
 
 56 
 
 able, but of this they were destitute. Having gathered some fern 
 leaves, they strewed them on the lava, and laid down to repose. 
 
 On the morning of the 11th, the party still felt unwilling to return 
 without reaching the top of the mountain, and hesitated before they 
 began again to descend; but having been a day and two nights with- 
 out water, and seeing no prospect of procuring any there, they were 
 obliged to direct their steps towards Kairua. 
 
 They walked several miles along the rough stream of lava by 
 which they had ascended, till they arrived at the woody part of the 
 mountain. Two of them, in searching for a more direct road to 
 Kairua, discovered an excellent spring of water. They soon commu- 
 nicated the agreeable intelligence to their companions, who hastened 
 to the spot, and, with copious draughts, quenched their thirst. Hav- 
 ing filled their canteens, they, with renewed strength and grateful 
 hearts, kept on their way to the town. 
 
 Owing to the roughness of the paths, and the circuitous route by 
 which they travelled, they did not arrive at Kairua until after sun- 
 set, much fatigued, and almost barefoot, their shoes having been de- 
 stroyed by the sharp projections in the lava. 
 
 They refreshed themselves at the governor's, and after uniting with 
 him and his family in an evening tribute of praise to God, they re- 
 paired to their lodgings, somewhat disappointed, yet well repaid for 
 the toil of their journey. 
 
 MR. ELLIS JOINS THE PARTY. 
 
 Eight days after the departure of Mr. Thurston and his companions, 
 I followed in a small schooner belonging to Keopuolani, bound first 
 to Lahaina, and then to Hawaii for sandal wood. 
 
 Kalakua, one of the queens of the late Tamehameha, and Kekau- 
 ruohe her daughter, were proceeding in the same vessel to join the 
 king and other chiefs at Maui. The trade wind blew fresh from the 
 north-east, and the sea was unusually rough in the channel between 
 Oahu and Morokai. The schooner appeared to be a good sea-boat, but 
 proved a very uncomfortable one; the deck, from stem to stern, being 
 continually overflowed, all who could not get below were constantly 
 drenched with the spray. 
 
 The cabin was low, and so filled with the chief women and their 
 companions, that, where space could be found sufficient to stand or 
 sit, it was hardly possible to endure the heat. The evening, however, 
 was fine, and the night free from rain. 
 
 At daylight next morning, being close in with the west point of 
 Morokai, we tacked, and stood to the southward till noon, when we 
 again steered to the northward, and at four o'clock in the afternoon 
 were within half a mile of the high bluff rocks which form the south- 
 ern point of Ranai.
 
 57 
 STOPPING THE SHIP TO FISH. 
 
 A light air then came off the land, and carried us slowly along the 
 shore, till about an hour before sun-set, when Kekauruohe said she 
 wished for some fish, and requested the master to stop the vessel while 
 she went to procure them among the adjacent rocks. Her wishes were 
 gratified, and the boat was hoisted out. 
 
 Kekauruohe and three of her female attendants proceeded towards 
 the rocks that lie along the base of the precipice, about half a mile 
 distant. The detention thus occasioned afforded time to observe more 
 particularly the neighbouring coast. 
 
 The face of the high and perpendicular rocks in this part of the 
 island indicate that Eanai is either of volcanic origin, or, at some 
 remote period, has undergone the action of fire. Different strata of 
 lava, of varied colour and thickness, are distinctly marked from the 
 water's edge to the highest point. These strata, lying almost hori- 
 zontally, are in some places from twelve to twenty feet thick, in others 
 not more than a foot or eighteen inches. 
 
 After fishing about an hour, Kekauruohe and her companions re- 
 turned with a quantity of limpets, peri-winkles, &c, of which they 
 made a hearty supper. The wind died away with the setting of the 
 sun, until about 9 p. m. when a light breeze came from the land, and 
 wafted us slowly on our passage. 
 
 The southern shore of Eanai is usually avoided by masters of ves- 
 sels acquainted with the navigation among the islands, on account of 
 the light and variable winds or calms generally experienced there; 
 the course of the trade-winds being intercepted by the high lands of 
 Maui and Eanai. 
 
 It is not unusual for vessels, passing that way, to be becalmed 
 there for six, eight, or even ten days. The natives, with the small 
 craft belonging to the islands, usually keep close in shore, avail them- 
 selves of the gentle land-breeze to pass the point in the evening, and 
 run into Lahaina with the sea-breeze in the morning; but this is 
 attended with danger, as there is usually a heavy swell rolling in 
 towards the land. One or two vessels have escaped being drifted on 
 the rocks, only by the prompt assistance of their boats. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF LAHAINA IN 1823. 
 
 At day-break, on the 4th, we found ourselves within about four 
 miles of Lahaina, which is the principal district in Maui, on account 
 of its being the general residence of the chiefs, and the common re- 
 sort of ships that touch at the island for refreshments. A dead calm 
 prevailed, but by means of two large sweeps or oars, each worked by 
 four men, we reached the roads, and anchored at 6 a. m. 
 
 The appearance of Lahaina from the anchorage is singularly roman-
 
 58 
 
 tic and beautiful. A fine sandy beach stretches along the margin of 
 the sea, lined for a considerable distance -with houses, and adorned 
 with shady clumps of kou trees, or waving groves of cocoa-nuts. The 
 former is a species of cordia; the cordia sebastina in Cook's voyages. 
 
 The level land of the whole district, , for about three miles, is one 
 continued garden, laid out in beds of taro, potatoes, yams, sugar- 
 cane, or cloth plants. The lowly cottage of the farmer is seen peep- 
 ing through the leaves of the luxuriant plantain and banana tree, 
 and in every direction white columns of smoke ascend, curling up 
 among the wide-spreading branches of the bread-fruit tree. 
 
 The sloping hills immediately behind, and the lofty mountains in 
 the interior, clothed with verdure to their very summits, intersected 
 by deep and dark ravines, frequently enlivened by glittering water- 
 falls, or divided by winding valleys, terminate the delightful prospect. 
 
 MEETING THE KING. 
 
 Shortly after coming to anchor, a boat came from the barge, for 
 the chiefs on board, and I accompanied them to the shore. 
 
 On landing, I was kindly greeted by Keoua, governor of the 
 place; and shortly afterwards met and welcomed by Mr. Stewart, who 
 was just returning from morning worship with Keopuolani and her 
 husband. 
 
 We waited on Eihoriho, the late king, in his tent. He was, as usual, 
 neatly and respectably dressed, having on a suit of superfine blue, 
 made after the European fashion. 
 
 We were courteously received, and after spending a few minutes 
 in conversation respecting my journey to Hawaii, and answering his 
 inquiries relative to Oahu, we walked together about half a mile, 
 through groves of plantain and sugar cane, over a well-cultivated 
 tract of land, to Mr. Butler's establishment, in one of whose houses 
 the missionaries were comfortably accommodated, until their own 
 could be erected, and where I was kindly received by all the mem- 
 bers of the mission family. 
 
 After breakfast I walked down to the beach, and there learned that 
 the king had sailed for Morokai, and that Kalakua intended to fol- 
 low in the schooner in which she had come from Oahu. This obliged 
 me to wait for the Ainoa, another native vessel, hourly expected at 
 Lahaina, on her way to Hawaii. 
 
 ATTITUDE OF QUEEN KEOPUOLANI. 
 
 The forenoon was spent in conversation with Keopuolani, queen of 
 Mauhi, and mother of Eihoriho, king of all the islands. She, as well 
 as the other chiefs present, appeared gratified with an account of the 
 attention given to the means of instruction at Oahu, and desirous
 
 59 
 
 that the people of Lahaina might enjoy all the advantages of Chris- 
 tian education. Taua, the native teacher from Huahine, appeared 
 diligently employed among Keopuolani's people, many of whom were 
 his scholars; and I was happy to learn from Messrs. Stewart and 
 Eichards, that he was vigilant and faithful in his work. 
 
 At sun-rise next morning, Mr. Stewart and I walked down to Keo- 
 puolani's, to attend the usual morning exercises, in the large house 
 near the sea. About fifty persons were present. In the afternoon I 
 accompanied the missionaries to their schools on the beach. The 
 proficiency of many of the pupils in reading, spelling, and writing on 
 slates, was pleasing. 
 
 A HULA DESCRIBED. 
 
 Just as they had finished their afternoon instruction, a party of 
 musicians and dancers arrived before the house of Keopuolani, and 
 commenced a hura ka raau, (dance to the beating of a stick). Five 
 musicians advanced first, each with a staff in his left hand, five or 
 six feet long, about three or four inches in diameter at one end, and 
 tapering off to a point at the other. 
 
 In his right hand he held a small stick of hard wood, six or nine 
 inches long, with which he commenced his music, by striking the 
 small stick on the larger one, beating time all the while with his 
 right foot on a stone, placed on the ground beside him for that pur- 
 pose. 
 
 Six women, fantastical^ dressed in yellow tapas, crowned with 
 garlands of flowers, having also wreaths of the sweet-scented flowers 
 of the gardenia on their necks, and branches of the fragrant mairi, 
 (another native plant,) bound round their ancles, now made their way 
 by couples through the crowd, and, arriving at the area, on one side 
 of which the musicians stood, began their dance. 
 
 Their movements were slow, and though not always graceful, ex- 
 hibited nothing offensive to modest propriety. 
 
 Both musicians and dancers alternately chanted songs in honour of 
 former gods and chiefs of the islands, apparently much to the grati- 
 fication of the numerous spectators. 
 
 FROM HULA TO PRAYERS. 
 
 After they had continued their hura, (song and dance,) for about 
 half an hour, the queen, Keopuolani, requested them to leave off, as 
 the time had arrived for evening worship. The music ceased; the 
 dancers sat down; and, after the missionaries and some of the people 
 had sung one of the songs of Zion, I preached to the surrounding 
 multitude with special reference to their former idolatrous dances, 
 and the vicious customs connected therewith, from Acts xvii. 30.
 
 60 
 
 "The times of this ignorance God winked at, but now commandeth 
 ill men every where to repent." 
 
 The audience was attentive; and when the service was finished, 
 the people dispersed, and the dancers returned to their houses. 
 
 On our way home, the voice of lamentation arrested our attention. 
 Listening a few moments, we found it proceeded from a lowly cot- 
 tage, nearly concealed by close rows of sugar-cane. When we reached 
 the spot, we beheld a middle-aged woman, and two elderly men, 
 weeping around the mat of a sick man, apparently near his end. 
 Finding him entirely ignorant of God, and of a future state, we 
 spoke to him of Jehovah, of the fallen condition of man, of the amaz- 
 ing love of Christ in suffering death for the redemption of the world, 
 and recommended him to pray to the Son of God, who was able to 
 save to the uttermost. 
 
 He said that until now he knew nothing of these things, and was 
 glad he had lived to hear of them. "We requested one of his friends 
 to come to our house for some medicine; and having endeavoured to 
 comfort the mourners, bade them farewell. 
 
 The Ainoa was seen approaching from the southward, on the morn- 
 ing of the 6th. About two p. m. she came to anchor, having been 
 becalmed off Eanai four days. 
 
 A SUNDAY'S WORK AT LAHAINA. 
 
 This day being the Sabbath, at half-past ten the mission family 
 walked down to the beach to public worship. Most of the chiefs, 
 and about three hundred people, assembled under the pleasant shade 
 of a beautiful clump of kou trees, in front of Keopuolani's house. 
 After singing and prayer, I preached from Luke x. 23, 24. "Blessed 
 are the eyes which see the things which ye see: for I tell you, that 
 many prophets and kings have desired to see those things which ye 
 see, and have not seen them; and to hear those things which ye hear, 
 and have not heard them. ' ' 
 
 After service, when we went to present our salutations to Keopu- 
 olani, we found her, Kaikioewa, and several chiefs, conversing about 
 Tamehameha, and others of their ancestors, who had died idolaters, 
 and expressing their regret that the gospel had not been brought to 
 the Sandwich Islands in their day. "But perhaps," said Keopuolani, 
 ' ' they will have less punishment in the other world for worshipping 
 idols, than those, who, though they do not worship wooden gods, yet 
 see these days, and hear these good things, and still disregard them." 
 
 As we returned, I visited the sick man; found him rather better 
 than on the preceding evening, and again recommended the Son of 
 God as all-sufficient to save.
 
 61 
 
 GAME OF PUHENEHENE DESCRIBED. 
 
 I afterwards saw a party at buhenehene. This is one of the most 
 popular games in the Sandwich Islands, and the favourite amusement 
 of the king, and higher order of chiefs, frequently occupying them 
 whole days together. It principally consists in hiding a small stone 
 under one of five pieces of native tapa, so as to prevent the spectators 
 from discovering under which piece it is hid. 
 
 The parties at play sit cross-legged, on mats spread on the ground, 
 each one holding in his right hand a small elastic rod, about three 
 feet long, and highly polished. 
 
 At the small end of this stick there is a narrow slit or hole, through 
 which a piece of dog's skin, with a tuft of shaggy hair on it, or a 
 piece of ti leaf, is usually drawn. 
 
 Five pieces of tapa, of different colours, each loosely folded up like 
 a bundle, are then placed between the two parties, which generally 
 consists of five persons each. 
 
 One person is then selected on each side to hide the stone. He 
 who is first to hide it, takes it in his right hand, lifts up the cloth at 
 one end, puts his arm under as far as his elbow, and, passing it along 
 several times, underneath the five pieces of cloth, which lie in a line 
 contiguous to each other, he finally leaves it under one of them. 
 
 The other party sit opposite, watching closely the action in the 
 muscles of the upper part of his arm; and, it is said, that adepts can 
 discover the place where the stone is deposited, by observing the 
 change that takes place in those muscles, when the hand ceases to 
 grasp it. 
 
 Having deposited the stone, the hider withdraws his arm; and, with 
 many gestures, separates the contiguous pieces of cloth into five dis- 
 tinct heaps, leaving a narrow space between each. 
 
 The opposite party, having keenly observed this process, now point 
 with their wands or sticks to the different heaps under wiiich they 
 suppose the stone lies, looking significantly, at the same time, full in 
 the face of the man who had hid it. He sits all the while, holding 
 his fingers before his eyes, to prevent their noticing any change in 
 his countenance, should one of them point to the heap under which it 
 is hid. 
 
 Having previously agreed who shall strike first, that individual, 
 looking earnestly at the hider, lifts his rod, and strikes a smart blow 
 across the heap he had selected. The cloth is instantly lifted up; 
 and should the stone appear under it, his party have won that hid- 
 ing, with one stroke; if it is not there, the others strike, till the stone 
 is found. 
 
 The same party hide the stone five or ten times successively, ac- 
 cording to their agreement at the commencement of the play; and
 
 G2 
 
 whichever party discovers it the given number of times, with fewest 
 Btrokes, wins the game. 
 
 Sometimes they reverse it; and those win, who, in a given number 
 of times, strike most heaps without uncovering the stone. 
 
 GAMBLING FREQUENT. 
 
 Occasionally they play for amusement only; but more frequently for 
 money, or other articles of value, which they stake on the game. 
 
 I went to the party, whom I found thus engaged; and after a few 
 minutes' conversation, told them, that it was the sacred day of God, 
 and induced them to put aside their play, and promise to attend pub- 
 lie worship in the afternoon. 
 
 Leaving them, I passed through a garden, where a man was at 
 work weeding and watering a bed of cloth plants. I asked him if he 
 did not know it was the sacred day, and improper for him to work? 
 The man answered, yes, he knew it was the la tabu, (sacred day,) 
 and that Karaimoku had given orders for the people of Lahaina not 
 to work on that day; but said, he was hana maru no, (just working 
 secretly;) that was some distance from the beach, and the chiefs 
 would not see him. 
 
 I then told him he might do it without the chiefs seeing him, but 
 it was prohibited by a higher power than the chiefs, even by the God 
 of heaven and earth, who could see him alike in every place, by 
 night and by day. 
 
 He said he did not know that before, and would leave off when 
 he had finished the row of cloth plants he was then weeding! 
 
 Mr. Stewart conducted an English service in the afternoon. The 
 sound of the hura in a remote part of the district was occasionally 
 heard through the after-part of the day, but whether countenanced 
 by any of the chiefs, or only exhibited for the amusement of the 
 common people, we did not learn. 
 
 At four o'clock we again walked down to the beach, and found 
 about two hundred people collected under the kou trees; many more 
 afterwards came, and after the introductory exercises, I preached to 
 them upon the doctrine of the resurrection and a future state, from 
 John xi. 25. 
 
 The congregation seemed much interested. Probably it was the first 
 time many had ever heard of the awful hour, when the trumpet shall 
 sound, and the dead shall be raised, and stand before God. At the 
 conclusion of the service, notice was given of the monthly missionary 
 prayer-meeting on the morrow evening, and the people were invited to 
 attend
 
 63 
 SINCERETY OP KEOPUOLANI. 
 
 Taua, the native teacher of Keopuolani, visited the family in the 
 evening, and gave a very pleasing account of Keopuolani 's frequent 
 conversations with him, on the love of God in sending his Son, on 
 the death of Christ, and on her great desire to have a new heart, and 
 become a true follower of the Eedeemer. He informed us, that after 
 most of the attendants had retired, she had several times sent for 
 him, at nine or ten o'clock in the evening, to engage in prayer with 
 her and her husband, before they retired to rest. 
 
 This account was truly gratifying, and tended much to strengthen 
 the pleasing hope, which, from her uniform, humble, and christian 
 conduct, had for some time been indulged, that a saving change had 
 taken place in her heart. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 7th I walked to the sea side with Mr. 
 Eichards, and waited on the queen Keopuolani, to converse with her 
 respecting the houses and fences which she had kindly engaged to 
 erect for the missionaries. 
 
 The interview was satisfactory. Keopuolani seemed anxious to 
 make them comfortable, and assured Mr. Richards that the houses 
 would soon be ready for them. 
 
 We then visited Mauro, the chief of Waiakea, a large district on 
 the eastern side of Hawaii. He had been on a short visit to the 
 king, at Oahu, and was returning to his land in the Ainoa. 
 
 He received us kindly, and, when informed that I wished to pro- 
 ceed in the vessel to Hawaii, said, "It is good that you should go; 
 we shall sail to-morrow." 
 
 The eastern part of Lahaina, in which he had his encampment, was 
 highly cultivated, and adorned with some beautiful groves of kou 
 trees and cocoa-nuts. There were also several large ponds, well 
 stocked with excellent fish. 
 
 On returning from our visit to Maaro, we found the people col- 
 lecting under the cool shade of their favourite trees, in front of 
 Keopuolani 's house, for the purpose of attending the monthly mis- 
 sionary prayer meeting. About five o'clock the service commenced. 
 I gave an address from the Saviour's commission to the first mis- 
 sionaries to the heathen. Matt, xxviii. 19. "Go ye, therefore, and 
 teach all nations." 
 
 The audience appeared gratified with the brief account given of 
 the missionary operations of the present day, especially those among 
 the various clustering islands of the Pacific, with whose inhabitants 
 they feel themselves more particularly identified, than with the native 
 tribes of Africa or Asia. 
 
 It was a circumstance truly animating to see so many of those who, 
 wrapt in the thick darkness of paganism, had till lately worshipped
 
 64 
 
 the work of their own hands, and ' ' sacrificed ' ' their fellow-creatures 
 "to devils," now joining in concert with Christians of every nation, 
 in praying for the spread of the gospel of Jesus throughout the world. 
 
 A CONVERSATION WITH THE KING'S SERVANTS. 
 
 After breakfast on the 8th, I visited a neat strong brick house, 
 which stands on the beach, about the middle of the district. It was 
 erected for Tamehanieha; appears well built, is forty feet by twenty, 
 has two stories, and is divided into four rooms by strong boarded 
 partitions. It was the occasional residence of the late king, but by 
 the present is used only as a warehouse. 
 
 Several persons who appeared to have the charge of it, were living 
 in one of the apartments, and having looked over the house, and 
 made some inquiries about the native timber employed for the floor, 
 beams, &c. I sat down on one of the bales of cloth lying in the room 
 where the natives were sitting, and asked them if they knew how 
 to read, or if any of them attended the school, and the religious ser- 
 vices on the Sabbath? On their answering in the negative, I advised 
 them not to neglect these advantages, assuring them that it was a 
 good thing to be instructed, and to know the true God, and his son 
 Jesus Christ, the only Saviour. 
 
 They said, "Perhaps it is a good thing for some to attend to the 
 palapala and the pule (to reading and prayers,) but we are the king's 
 servants, and must attend to his concerns. If we (meaning all those 
 that had the care of the king's lands) were to spend our time at 
 our books, there would be nobody to cultivate the ground, to provide 
 food, or cut sandal wood for the king." 
 
 I asked them what proportion of their time was taken up in attend- 
 ing to these things? They said they worked in the plantations three 
 or four days in a week, sometimes from daylight till nine or ten 
 o'clock in the forenoon; that preparing an oven of food took an hour; 
 and that when they went for sandal wood, which was not very often, 
 they were gone three or four days, and sometimes as many weeks. 
 
 They were the king's servants, and generally work much less than 
 the people who occupy the lands, or cultivate them. 
 
 I asked them what they did in the remaining part of those days 
 in which they worked at their plantations in the morning; and also 
 on those days when they did not work at all? 
 
 They said they ate poe, laid down to sleep, or kamailio no (just 
 talked for amusement). 
 
 They were then asked, which they thought would be most advan- 
 tageous to them, to spend that time in learning to read, and seeking 
 the favour of Jehovah and Jesus Christ, that they might live for 
 ever, or wasting it in eating, sleeping, or foolish talking, and remain-
 
 65 
 
 ing ignorant in this world, and liable to wretchedness in that which 
 was to come? 
 
 They immediately endeavoured to give a different turn to the con- 
 versation, by saying, "What a fine country yours must be, compared 
 with this! 
 
 What large bales of cloth come from thence, while the clothing 
 of Hawaii is small in quantity, and very bad. 
 
 The soil there must be very prolific, and property easily obtained, 
 or so much of it would not have been brought here. 
 
 I informed them, that the difference was not so great between the 
 countries as between the people. 
 
 That, many ages back, the ancestors of the present inhabitants of 
 England and America possessed fewer comforts than the Sandwich 
 islanders now enjoy; wore skins of beasts for clothing; painted their 
 bodies with various colours; and worshipped with inhuman rites their 
 cruel gods: but since they had become enlightened and industrious, 
 and had embraced Christianity, they had been wise and rich; and 
 many, there was reason to hope, had, after death, gone to a state of 
 happiness in another world; that they owed all their present wealth 
 and enjoyment to their intelligence and industry; and that, if the 
 people of either country were to neglect education and religion, and 
 spend as much of their time in eating, sleeping, and jesting, they 
 would soon become as poor and as ignorant as the Sandwich islanders. 
 
 They said, perhaps it was so; perhaps industry and instruction 
 would make them happier and better, and, if the chiefs wished it, 
 by and by they would attend to both. 
 
 After again exhorting them to improve the means now placed 
 within their reach by the residence of the missionaries among them, 
 I took leave of them. 
 
 During the forenoon, I went into several other houses, and con- 
 versed with the people on subjects relating to the mission, recom- 
 mending their attention to the advantages it was designed to confer. 
 Some approved, but many seemed very well satisfied with their 
 present state of ignorance and irreligion, and rather unwilling to be 
 disturbed. 
 
 After having united with the family in their evening devotions, 
 on the 9th I took my leave, grateful for the hospitable entertain- 
 ment and kind attention I had experienced, during my unexpected 
 stay at their interesting station. I regretted that the illness of Mr. 
 Stewart, which had been increasing for several days, prevented his 
 accompanying me on my projected tour. 
 
 DIFFICULTIES OF INTEIMSAND TRAVEL. 
 
 At nine o'clock I walked down to the beach, but waited till mid- 
 night before an opportunity offered for getting on board. On reach- 
 
 5
 
 66 
 
 ing the brig, I learned that they did not intend to sail till daylight. 
 
 There were such multitudes of natives on board, and every place 
 was so crowded, that it was impossible to pass from the gangway 
 to the companion without treading on them; and it was difficult any 
 where, either below or upon deck, to find room sufficient to lie down. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 10th the vessel was under way, but 
 the light winds, and strong westerly current, soon rendered it neces- 
 sary to anchor. Between eight and nine I went on shore, and after 
 breakfasting with the Mission family, returned to the beach, that I 
 might be ready to embark whenever the wind should become favour- 
 able. I sat down in Keopuolani's house, and entered into an inter- 
 esting conversation with her, Hoapiri, and several other chiefs, re- 
 specting their ancient traditions and mythology. 
 
 One of the ancient gods of Maui, prior to its subjugation by Tame- 
 hameha, they said, was Keoroeva. The body of the image was of 
 wood, and was arrayed in garments of native tapa. The head and 
 neck were formed of a kind of fine basket or wicker work, covered 
 over with red feathers, so curiously wrought in as to resemble the 
 skin of a beautiful bird. A native helmet was placed on the idol's 
 head, from the crown of which long tresses of human hair hung down 
 over its shoulders. Its mouth, like the greater number of the Hawai- 
 ian idols, was large and distended. 
 
 KEOROEVA— A MAUI GOD. 
 
 In all the temples dedicated to its worship, the image was placed 
 within the inner apartment, on the left hand side of the door, and 
 immediately before it stood the altar, on which the offerings of every 
 kind were usually placed. 
 
 They did not say whether human victims were ever sacrificed to 
 appease its imagined wrath, but large offerings, of every thing valu- 
 able, were frequent. 
 
 Sometimes hogs were taken alive, as presents. The large ones were 
 led, and the smaller ones carried in the arms of the priest, into the 
 presence of the idols. The priest then pinched the ears or the tail of 
 the pig till it made a squeaking noise, when he addressed the god, 
 saying, "Here is the offering of such a one of your kahu, " (de- 
 votees). 
 
 WHEN A PIG WAS SUPERIOR TO A MAN. 
 A hole was then made in the pig's ear, a piece of cinet, made of the 
 fibres of the cocoa-nut husk, was fastened in it, and the pig was set 
 at liberty until the priest had occasion for him. In consequence of 
 this mark, which distinguished the sacred hog, he was allowed to 
 range the district at pleasure; and whatever depredations he might
 
 67 
 
 commit, driving him away from the enclosures into which he had 
 broken, was the only punishment allowed to be inflicted. 
 
 Keoroeva's hogs were not the only ones thus privileged. The 
 same lenient conduct was observed towards all the sacred pigs, to 
 whatever idol they had been offered. 
 
 Tiha, a female idol, they said was also held in great veneration 
 by the people of Maui, and received nearly the same homage and 
 offerings as Keoroeva. 
 
 THE GODS OP LANAI AND MOLOKAI. 
 
 The people of Eanai, an adjacent island, had a number of idols, 
 but those best known by the chiefs with whom I was conversing, 
 were Eaeapua and Kaneapua, two large carved stone images, repre- 
 senting the deities supposed to preside over the sea, and worshipped 
 chiefly by fishermen. 
 
 Mooarii, (king of lizards or alligators,) a shark, was also a 
 celebrated marine god, worshipped by the inhabitants of Morokai, 
 another island in the neighbourhood. The chiefs informed me, that 
 on almost every point of land projecting any distance into the sea, a 
 temple was formerly erected for his worship. 
 
 Several kinds of fish arrive in shoals on their coast, every year, in 
 their respective seasons. The first fish of each kind, taken by the 
 fishermen, were always carried to the heiau, and offered to their god, 
 whose influence they imagined had driven them to their shores. 
 
 In some remote period, perhaps, they had observed the sharks chas- 
 ing or devouring these fish, as they passed along among their islands, 
 and from this circumstance had been led to deify the monster, sup- 
 posing themselves indebted to him for the bountiful supplies thus 
 furnished by a gracious Providence. 
 
 MANY SEA GODS. 
 
 They had a number of sea gods, besides those whom they imagined 
 directed the shoals of fishes to their shores. They had also gods who 
 controlled the winds and changed the weather. 
 
 During a storm, or other season of danger at sea, they offered up 
 their paro, or pule kurana, a particular kind of prayer; but it is 
 not known to what idol they addressed it. On these occasions, their 
 dread of perishing at sea frequently led them to make vows to some 
 favourite deity; and if they ever reached the land, it was their first 
 business to repair to the temple, and fulfil their vows. These vows 
 were generally considered most sacred engagements; and it was ex- 
 pected that, sooner or later, some judgment would overtake those 
 who failed to perform them.
 
 68 
 
 It is not. improbable, that the priests of those idols, in order to 
 maintain their influence over the people, either poisoned the delin- 
 quents, or caused them to sustain some other injury. 
 
 KALAIPAHOA, THE GREAT POISON GOD. 
 
 Karaipahoa was also a famous idol, originally belonging to Morokai. 
 It was a middling-sized wooden image, curiously carved; the arms 
 were extended, the fingers spread out, the head was ornamented with 
 human hair, and the widely distended mouth was armed with rows 
 of shark's teeth. 
 
 The wood of which the image was made was so poisonous, that if 
 a small piece of it was chipped into a dish of poe, or steeped in water, 
 whoever ate the poe or drank the water, the natives reported, would 
 certainly die in less than twenty-four hours afterwards. 
 
 We were never able to procure a sight of this image, though we 
 have been repeatedly informed that it still exists, not indeed in one 
 compact image, as it was divided in several parts on the death of 
 Tamehameha, and distributed among the principal chiefs. 
 
 It is a known fact, that the natives use several kinds of vegetable 
 poison; and probably the wood of which the idol was made is 
 poisonous. But the report of the virulence of the poison is most likely 
 one of the many stratagems so frequently employed by the chiefs and 
 priests, to maintain their influence over the minds of the people. 
 
 A smaller image of the same god was formed of nioi, a hard yel- 
 low wood, of which idols were usually made. This was left at Moro- 
 kai, the original being always carried about by Tamehameha, and, 
 it is said, placed under his pillow whenever he slept. 
 
 THE TRADITION OF THE ORIGIN OF KALAIPAHOA. 
 
 The following is the tradition given by the natives of the original 
 idol. 
 
 In the reign of Kumaraua, an ancient king of Morokai, lived Ka- 
 neakama, a great gambler. Playing one day at maita, (a Hawaiian 
 game,) he lost all that he possessed, except one pig, which, having 
 dedicated to his god, he durst not stake on his game. 
 
 In the evening he returned home, laid down on his mat, and fell 
 asleep. His god appeared to him in a dream, and directed him to go 
 and play again, on the following day, and stake this pig on his suc- 
 cess in a particular part of the play. He awoke in the morning, did 
 as the god had directed, and was remarkably successful through the 
 day. Before he returned home in the evening, he went to the temple 
 of his idol, and there dedicated the greater part of his gain. 
 
 During his sleep that night the god appeared to him again, and 
 requested him to go to the king, and tell him, that a clump of trees
 
 69 
 
 would be seen growing in a certain place in the morning; and that if 
 he would have a god made out of one of them, he would reside in 
 the image, and impart to it his power, signifying also, that Kane- 
 akama should be his priest. 
 
 A MIRACULOUS POISON TREE. 
 
 Early the next morning, the man who had received the communi- 
 cation from his god went and delivered it to the king, by whom he 
 was directed to take a number of men, and cut down one of the trees, 
 and carve it into an image. 
 
 As they approached Karuakoi, a small valley on the side of one of 
 the mountains in Morokai, they were surprised at beholding a clump 
 of trees, where there had been none before, the gods having caused 
 them to grow up in the course of the preceding night. Into these 
 trees, Tane, and some other gods, are reported to have entered. 
 
 When they arrived at the spot, the gods, by some sign, directed 
 Kaneakama which tree to cut down. They began to work with their 
 short-handled stone hatchets; but the chips flying on the bodies of one 
 or two of them, they instantly expired. 
 
 Terrified at the dreadful power of the wood, the others threw 
 down their hatchets, and refused to fell the tree; being urged by 
 Kaneakama, they resumed their work; not, however, till they covered 
 their bodies and faces with native cloth, and the leaves of the ti 
 plant, leaving only a small aperture opposite one of their eyes. In- 
 stead of their hatchets, they took their long daggers, or pahoas, with 
 which they cut down the tree, and carved out the image. From this 
 circumstance, the natives say, the idol derived its name, Karai-pahoa, 
 which is literally, dagger cut or carved; from karai, to chip with 
 an adze, or carve, and pahoa, a dagger. 
 
 Excepting the deities supposed to preside over volcanoes, no god 
 was so much dreaded by the people as Karaipahoa. All who were 
 thought to have died by poison, were said to have been slain by 
 him. 
 
 IDENTITY OF TAHITIAN AND HAWAIIAN TRADITIONS. 
 
 Before I left the party, I could not help stating to them the strik- 
 ing identity between some of their traditions and those of the Tahi- 
 tians; and expressed my conviction that both nations had the same 
 origin. 
 
 They said, tradition informed them that their progenitors were 
 brought into existence on the islands which they now inhabit; that 
 they knew nothing of the origin of the people of the Georgian and 
 Society Islands, yet Tahiti, the name of the largest of the Georgian 
 Islands, was found in many of their ancient songs, though not now 
 applied exclusively to that island.
 
 70 
 
 PROPOSED INTERMARRIAGE BETWEEN ROYAL FAMILIES OP 
 TAHITI AND HAWAII. 
 
 With the people of Borabora, (the name they gave to the Society 
 Islands,) they said they had no acquaintance before they were visited 
 by Captain Cook, but that since that time, by means of ships pass- 
 ing from one group of islands to the other, several presents and 
 messages of friendship had been interchanged between Tamehameha 
 and Pomare I., and that, in order to cement their friendship more 
 firmly, each had agreed to give one of his daughters in marriage to 
 the son of the other. 
 
 In consequence of this amicable arrangement, a daughter of Pomare 
 was expected from Tahiti, to be the wife of Rihoriho, late king of 
 Hawaii; and Kekauruohe, one of the daughters of Tamehameha, was 
 selected by her father to be the bride of Pomare, the late king of 
 Tahiti. 
 
 Wanting a conveyance from Hawaii to Tahiti, Tamehameha was 
 unable to send Kekauruohe; which, together with the death of Pomare 
 before he had any opportunity of sending one of his relatives to 
 Hawaii, prevented the intended intermarriages between the reigning 
 families of Hawaii and Tahiti. 
 
 VOYAGING PROM LAHAINA TO KAWAIHAE. 
 
 About two o'clock in the afternoon, the Ainoa hove up her anchor. 
 I went on board in a canoe just as she was leaving the roads. The 
 brig being about ninety tons burden, one of the largest the natives 
 have, was, as has been already observed, much crowded, and, owing 
 to the difference between the motion of the vessel and that expe- 
 rienced in their small canoes, many of the natives soon became sea- 
 sick. 
 
 It was calm through the night, but the wind blew fresh in the 
 morning from N. N. E. and continued until noon, when, being under 
 the lee of the high land of Kohala, one of the large divisions of 
 Hawaii, we were becalmed. 
 
 At four o'clock p. m. a light air sprung up from the southward, 
 and carried us slowly on towards Towaihae, a district in the divi- 
 sion of Kohala, about four miles long, containing a spacious bay, and 
 good anchorage. The vessel stood in towards the north side of the 
 bay, leaving a large heiau, (heathen temple,) situated on the brow 
 of a hill, to the southward, and heading directly for a deep gully, 
 or water-course, called Honokoa, opposite the mouth of which, about 
 7 p. m. she came to anchor, in 10 fathoms, with a good bottom. 
 
 The north side of the bay affords much the best anchorage for 
 shipping, especially for those that wish to lie near the shore. It is 
 the best holding ground, and is also screened by the kuahive (high
 
 71 
 
 land) of Kohala from those sudden and violent gusts of wind, called 
 by the natives mumuku, which come down between the mountains with 
 almost irresistible fury, on the southern part of Towaihae, and the 
 adjacent districts. 
 
 A MEETING WITH JOHN YOUNG. 
 
 At six a. m. the next day, I went on shore, and walked along the 
 beach about a mile to the house of Mr. J. Young, an aged English- 
 man, who has resided thirty-six years on the island, and rendered the 
 most important services to the late king; not only in his various civil 
 wars, but in all his intercourse with those foreigners who have visited 
 the islands. 
 
 I found him recovering from a fit of illness, received from him a 
 cordial welcome, and, as he was just sitting down to his morning 
 repast, joined him, with pleasure, at his frugal board. 
 
 THE GREAT HEIAU AT KAWAIHAE. 
 
 After breakfast, I visited the large heiau or temple called Bukohola. 
 It stands on an eminence in the southern part of the district, and 
 was built by Tamehameha about thirty years ago, when he was en- 
 gaged in conquering Hawaii, and the rest of the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 He had subdued Maui, Eanai, and Morokai, and was preparing, 
 from the latter, to invade Oahu, but in consequence of a rebellion in 
 the south and east parts of Hawaii, was obliged to return thither. 
 
 When he had overcome those who had rebelled, he finished the heiau, 
 dedicated it to Tairi, his god of war, and then proceeded to the 
 conquest of Oahu. Its shape is an irregular parallelogram, 224 feet 
 long, and 100 wide. The walls, though built of loose stones, were 
 solid and compact. At both ends, and on the side next the mountains, 
 they were twenty feet high, twelve feet thick at the bottom, but nar- 
 rowed in gradually towards the top, where a course of smooth stones, 
 six feet wide, formed a pleasant walk. The walls next the sea were 
 not more than seven or eight feet high, and were proportionally wide. 
 The entrance to the temple is by a narrow passage between two high 
 walls. 
 
 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 
 
 As I passed along this avenue, an involuntary shuddering seized me, 
 on reflecting how often it had been trodden by the feet of those who 
 relentlessly bore the murdered body of the human victim an offering 
 to their cruel idols. 
 
 The upper terrace within the area was spacious, and much better 
 finished than the lower ones. It was paved with various flat smooth 
 stones, brought from a considerable distance.
 
 72 
 
 At the south end was a kind of inner court, which might be called 
 the sanctum sanctorum of the temple, where the principal idol used to 
 stand, surrounded by a number of images of inferior deities. 
 
 WHERE THE ORACLE WORKED. 
 
 In the centre of this inner court was the place where the anu was 
 erected, which was a lofty frame of wicker-work, in shape something 
 like an obelisk, hollow, and four or five feet square at the bottom. 
 Within this the priest stood, as the organ of communication from the 
 god, whenever the king came to inquire his will; for his principal god 
 was also his oracle, and when it was to be consulted, the king, accom- 
 panied by two or three attendants, proceeded to the door of the inner 
 temple, and standing immediately before the obelisk, inquired respect- 
 ing the declaration of war, the conclusion of peace, or any other affair 
 of importance. The answer was given by the priest in a distinct and 
 audible voice, though, like that of other oracles, it was frequently 
 very ambiguous. On the return of the king, the answer he had 
 received was publicly proclaimed, and generally acted upon. 
 
 I have frequently asked the people, whether, on these occasions, 
 there was not some previous agreement between the king and the 
 priest. They generally answered in the negative, or said they did not 
 know. 
 
 On the outside, near the entrance to the inner court, was the 
 place of the rere (altar,) on which human and other sacrifices were 
 offered. The remains of one of the pillars that supported it were 
 pointed out by the natives, and the pavement around was strewed 
 with bones of men and animals, the mouldering remains of those 
 numerous offerings once presented there. 
 
 THE KING'S SACRED HOUSE. 
 
 About the centre of the terrace was the spot where the king's 
 sacred house stood, in which he resided during the season of strict 
 tabu, and at the north end, the place occupied by the houses of 
 priests, who, with the exception of the king, were the only persons 
 permitted to dwell within the sacred enclosure. 
 
 Holes were seen on the walls, all around this, as well as the lower 
 terraces, where wooden idols of varied size and shape formerly stood, 
 casting their hideous stare in every direction. Tairi, or Kukairimoku, 
 a large wooden idol, crowned with a helmet, and covered with red 
 feathers, the favourite war-god of Tamehameha, was the principal 
 idol. To him the heiau was dedicated, and for his occasional resi- 
 dence it was built.
 
 73 
 
 HUMAN VICTIMS. 
 
 On the day in which he was brought within its precincts, vast 
 offerings of fruit, hogs, and dogs, were presented, and no less than 
 eleven human victims immolated on its altars. And, although the 
 huge pile now resembles a dismantled fortress, whose frown no longer 
 strikes terror through the surrounding country, yet it is impossible 
 to walk over such a golgotha, or contemplate a spot which must 
 often have resembled a pandemonium more than any thing on earth, 
 without a strong feeling of horror at the recollection of the bloody 
 and infernal rites so frequently practised within its walls. 
 
 Thanks be to God, the idols are destroyed! Thanks to his name, 
 the glorious gospel of his Son, who was manifested to destroy the 
 works of the devil, has reached these heretofore desolate shores! 
 May the Holy Spirit make it the ' ' savour of life unto life ' ' to the 
 remnant of the people! 
 
 Leaving Bukohola, accompanied by some natives, I visited Mairi- 
 kini, another heiau, a few hundred yards nearer the shore. It was 
 nearly equal in its dimensions to that on the summit of the hill, but 
 inferior in every other respect. It appeared to have been literally 
 crowded with idols, but no human sacrifices were offered to any of 
 its gods. 
 
 A TRIP PROM KAWAIHAE TO KAILUA. 
 
 On returning to Mr. Young's house, I was informed that the vessel 
 would sail that evening for Kairua, a circumstance I much regretted, 
 as I hoped to spend the sabbath at Towaihae. Mr. Young, however, 
 collected his family and neighbours together, to the number of sixty. 
 A short exhortation was given, and followed by prayer; after which 
 I took leave of my kind host, repaired on board, and the vessel 
 soon after got under way. 
 
 It was daylight the next morning before we had left Towaihae 
 bay, as the wind during the night had been very light. The sea 
 breeze had, however, set in early, and carried us along a rugged and 
 barren shore of lava towards Kairua, which is distant from Towaihae 
 about thirty miles. 
 
 It being the sabbath, I preached on deck in the afternoon from 
 Mark iv. 38, 39. to a congregation of about 150 natives, including the 
 greater part of the crew. Many of the people were afterwards 
 observed sitting together in small groups, and conversing about what 
 they had heard, though some were inclined to make sport of it. 
 
 In the evening we were opposite Laemano (Shark's Point,) but 
 strong westerly currents prevented our making much progress. 
 
 On the morning of the 14th, we found ourselves becalmed to the 
 southward of Kairua, several leagues from the shore. The snow-
 
 74 
 
 covered tops of the mountains were distinctly seen at sunrise, but 
 they soon after became enveloped in clouds, and continued so through 
 the day. A light breeze carried the vessel towards the land, and at 
 nine a. m. the boat was lowered down, and I proceeded to the shore. 
 On my way I met the governor Kuakini, and Messrs. Goodrich and 
 Harwood, who were coming off in the governor's boat. We returned 
 together to the shore, where I was gladly received by Messrs. Thurston 
 and Bishop, whom I found waiting to proceed on the tour of the 
 island. 
 
 STROLLING MUSICIANS AND DANCERS DESCRIBED. 
 
 In the afternoon, a party of strolling musicians and dancers arrived 
 at Kairua. About four o'clock they came, followed by crowds of 
 people, and arranged themselves on a fine sandy beach, in front of 
 one of the governor's houses, where they exhibited a native dance, 
 called hura araapapa. 
 
 The five musicians first seated themselves in a line on the ground, 
 and spread a piece of folded cloth on the sand before them. Their 
 instrument was a large calabash, or rather two, one of an oval shape 
 about three feet high, the other perfectly round, very neatly fastened 
 to it, having also an aperture about three inches in diameter at the 
 top. 
 
 Each musician held his instrument before him with both hands, and 
 produced his music by striking it on the ground, where he had laid 
 the piece of cloth, and beating it with his fingers, or the palms of 
 his hands. As soon as they began to sound their calabashes, the 
 dancer, a young man, about the middle stature, advanced through the 
 opening crowd. His jet-black hair hung in loose and flowing ringlets 
 down his naked shoulders; his necklace was made of a vast number 
 of strings of nicely braided human hair, tied together behind, while a 
 paraoa (an ornament made of a whale's tooth) hung pendent from 
 it on his breast; his wrists were ornamented with bracelets, formed 
 of polished tusks of the hog, and his ancles with loose buskins, thickly 
 set with dog's teeth, the rattle of which, during the dance, kept time 
 with the music of the calabash drum. A beautiful yellow tapa was 
 tastefully fastened round his loins, reaching to his knees. He began 
 his dance in front of the musicians, and moved forwards and back- 
 wards, across the area, occasionally chanting the achievements of 
 former kings of Hawaii. The governor sat at the end of the ring, 
 opposite to the musicians, and appeared gratified with the perfor- 
 mance, which continued until the evening. 
 
 ROUTE OP EXPLORATION DECIDED UPON. 
 July 15th. Our whole number being now together at the place 
 where we had previously agreed to commence our tour, we no longer
 
 76 
 
 delayed to decide on the route we should take, and the manner in 
 which we should endeavour to accomplish the objects of our visit. 
 
 Anxious to gain a thorough acquaintance with the circumstances 
 of the people, and their disposition relative to missionary operations, 
 we agreed to travel on foot from Karma, through the villages on 
 the southern shore, to pass round the south point, and continue along 
 the south-east shore, till we should arrive at the path leading to the 
 great volcano, situated at the foot of Mouna Roa, about 25 miles 
 distant from the sea, which we thought it improper to pass unnoticed. 
 
 We proposed, after visiting the volcano, either to descend to the 
 shore and travel along the coast through the division of Puna, or 
 across the interior to the division of Hiro, as circumstances might 
 then render most expedient. 
 
 From Waiakea in Hiro, we agreed to proceed along the eastern 
 shore, till an opportunity should offer for part of our number to cross 
 over the mountains of Kohala, while the rest should travel along the 
 shore, round the north point of the island, and meet their companions 
 at Towaihae, whence they could return direct to Oahu, if a means 
 of conveyance should present itself, or to Kairua, and there wait for 
 a vessel. 
 
 The plan of our tour being thus arranged, we were anxious to 
 receive the aid of the governor in the execution of it. Mr. Thurston 
 and myself were therefore chosen to wait upon him in the afternoon, 
 to make him acquainted with our wishes, and solicit his assistance 
 for their accomplishment. 
 
 A "PEOPLE'S FORT." 
 
 I afterwards accompanied Mr. Thurston to the well, where we 
 found the natives boring the hard rocks of lava which they intended 
 to blast. We encouraged them in their laborious work, and then 
 visited the ruins of an old military fortification, formerly belonging 
 to the makaainana, (common people, as distinguished from the aris- 
 tocracy, or reigning chiefs). 
 
 In those periods of their history, during which the island of Hawaii 
 was divided into a number of independent governments under dif- 
 ferent chiefs, which were frequent prior to the reign of Taraiopu, who 
 was king at the time of its discovery by Captain Cook; this had 
 been a place of considerable importance. 
 
 All that at present remains is part of the wall, about eighteen or 
 twenty feet high, and fourteen feet thick at the bottom, built of lava, 
 and apparently entire. In the upper part of the wall are apertures 
 resembling embrasures; but they could not have been designed for 
 cannon, that being an engine of war with which the natives have but 
 recently become acquainted.

 
 78 
 
 The part of the wall now standing, is near the mouth of Raniakea, 
 the spacious cavern already mentioned, which formed a valuable 
 appendage to the fort. In this cavern, children and aged persons 
 were placed for security during an assault or sally from the fort, 
 and sometimes the wives of the warriors also, when they did not 
 accompany their husbands to the battle. 
 
 The fortification was probably extensive, as traces of the ancient 
 walls are discoverable in several places; but what were its original 
 dimensions, the natives who were with us could not tell. They as- 
 serted, however, that the cavern, if not the fort also, was formerly 
 surrounded by a strong palisade. 
 
 ASSISTANCE FROM THE GOVERNOR. 
 
 In the afternoon we waited on the governor, according to appoint- 
 ment; made him acquainted with our arrangements, and solicited the 
 accommodation of a boat, or canoe, to carry our baggage, and a man 
 acquainted with the island, to act as a guide, and to procure provi- 
 sions, offering him, at the same time, any remuneration he might re- 
 quire for such assistance. After inquiring what baggage we intended 
 to take, and how long we expected to be absent from Kairua, he 
 generously offered to send a canoe as far as it could go with safety, 
 and also to furnish a guide for the whole tour without any recom- 
 pense whatever. He recommended that we should take a few articles 
 for barter, as, occasionally, we might perhaps be obliged to purchase 
 our food, or hire men to carry our baggage. After thanking him 
 for his kindness, we returned. 
 
 MORE MUSIC AND DANCING. 
 
 About four o 'clock in the afternoon, another party of musicians 
 and dancers, followed by multitudes of people, took their station 
 nearly on the spot occupied yesterday by those from Kau. The musi- 
 cians, seven in number, seated themselves on the sand; a curiously 
 carved drum, made by hollowing out a solid piece of wood, and cov- 
 ering the top with shark's skin, was placed before each, which they 
 beat with the palm or fingers of their right hand. A neat little drum, 
 made of the shell of a large cocoa-nut, was also fixed on the knee, 
 by the side of the large drum, and beat with a small stick held in the 
 left hand. 
 
 When the musicians had arranged themselves in a line, across' the 
 beach, and a bustling man, who appeared to be master of the cere- 
 monies, had, with a large branch of a cocoa-nut tree, cleared a circle 
 of considerable extent, two interesting little children, (a boy and a 
 girl,) apparently about nine years of age, came forward, habited in the
 
 79 
 
 dancing costume of the country, with garlands of flowers on their 
 heads, wreaths around their necks, bracelets on their wrists, and 
 buskins on their ankles. 
 
 When they had reached the centre of the ring, they commenced 
 their dance to the music of the drums; cantilating, alternately with 
 the musicians, a song in honour of some ancient of Hawaii. 
 
 C.T^- sa 
 
 KFAIOK1, 
 Governor of Hawaii. 
 
 The governor of the island was present, accompanied, as it is cus- 
 tomary for every chieftain of distinction to be on public occasions, by 
 a retinue of favourite chiefs and attendants. 
 
 THE GOVERNOR'S DRESS AND COURT ETIQUETTE. 
 
 Having almost entirely laid aside the native costume, and adopted 
 that of the foreigners who visit the islands, he appeared on this occa- 
 sion in a light European dress, and sat on a Canton-made arm chair,, 
 opposite the dancers, during the whole exhibition. 
 
 A servant, with a light kihei of painted native cloth thrown over 
 his shoulder, stood behind his chair, holding a highly polished spit-
 
 80 
 
 toon, made of the beautifully brown wood of the cordia in one hand, 
 and in the other a handsome kahiri, an elastic rod, three or four feet 
 long, having the shining feathers of the tropie-bird tastefully fastened 
 round the upper end, with which he fanned away the flies from the 
 person of his master. 
 
 The beach was crowded with spectators, and the exhibition kept up 
 with great spirit, till the overspreading shades of evening put an end 
 to their mirth, and afforded a respite to the poor children, whose little 
 limbs must have been very much fatigued by two hours of constant 
 exercise. 
 
 DANCING EXCLUDED RELIGION. 
 
 We were anxious to address the multitude on the subject of reli- 
 gion before they should disperse; but so intent were they on their 
 amusement, that they could not have been diverted from it. I suc- 
 ceeded, however, in taking a sketch of the novel assemblage, in which, 
 a youth, who had climbed a high pole, (that, looking over the heads 
 of the throng who surrounded the dancers, he might witness the scene,) 
 formed a conspicuous object. 
 
 A messenger now invited us to sup with the governor, and we soon 
 after joined him and his friends around his hospitable board. 
 
 DINNER ACCOMPANIED BY MINSTRELSY. 
 
 Our repast was not accompanied by the gladsome sound of "harp 
 in hall" or "aged minstrel's flowing lay," yet it was enlivened by 
 an interesting youthful bard, twelve or fourteen years of age, who 
 was seated on the ground in the large room in which we were assem- 
 bled, and who, during the supper, sung, in a monotonous but pleasing 
 strain, the deeds of former chiefs, ancestors of our host. His fingers 
 swept no "classic lyre," but beat, in a manner responsive to his song, 
 a rustic little drum, formed of a calabash, beautifully stained, and 
 covered at the head with a piece of shark skin. 
 
 The governor and his friends were evidently pleased with his lay, 
 and the youth seemed repaid by their approbation. 
 
 MEASURING HUALALAI — PREPARING FOR THE TRIP. 
 
 In the morning of the 16th, Messrs. Goodrich and Harwood en- 
 deavoured to ascertain the height of Mouna Huararai, by means of 
 two observations at the extremity of a base line of 2230 feet. They 
 made the height of the mountain to be 7822 feet; but their quadrant 
 being an inferior one, we thought the height of the mountain greater 
 than that given above, though it is never covered with snow. 
 
 The accounts the natives gave us of the roads we were to travel, 
 and the effects the short journeys already made had produced on our
 
 81 
 
 shoes, convinced us that those we had brought with us would be worn 
 out before we had proceeded even half way round the island. We 
 therefore provided a substitute, by procuring a tough bull's hide from 
 the governor's store-house, and making ourselves rude sandals; which 
 we afterwards found very serviceable, as they enabled us to travel 
 over large tracts of lava with much more expedition and comfort 
 than we could possibly have done without them. 
 
 RELIGIOUS TRUTHS SUBSTITUTED FOR THE HULA. 
 
 At four p. m. the musicians from Kau again collected on the beach, 
 and the dancer commenced a hura, similar to that exhibited on Mon- 
 day evening. We had previously appointed a religious meeting for 
 this evening, and, about an hour before sun-set, proposed to the 
 governor to hold it on the beach, where the people were already 
 assembled. He approved, and followed us to the edge of the circle, 
 where we took our station, opposite the musicians. 
 
 At the governor's request the music ceased, and the dancer came 
 and sat down just in front of us. We sang a hymn; I then offered 
 up a short prayer, and afterwards addressed the people from Acts 
 xiv. 15; "And preach unto you, that ye should turn from these vani- 
 ties unto the living God, which made heaven and earth, and the sea, 
 and all things that are therein." The multitude collected was from 
 different and distant parts of the island, and appeared to listen with 
 attention to the word spoken. To many, it was doubtless the first 
 time they had heard of the name of Jehovah, or of Jesus Christ his 
 Son, and we afterwards heard them conversing among themselves 
 about the truths they had heard. 
 
 DISCUSSIONS WITH THE GOVERNOR. 
 
 After supper and family worship at the governor's, I spent the 
 evening in conversation with him, partly on traditions respecting 
 some remarkable places in the neighbourhood of Kairua, and partly 
 on the subject of religion. I spoke on the desirableness of his building 
 a place for the public worship of the true God, and the advantages 
 of keeping the Sabbath as a day of holy rest, recommending him to 
 set the common people a good example, and use his influence to induce 
 them to attend j>ublic service on the Lord's day. 
 
 He said it was his intention to build a church by and by, when 
 the maka-ainana should become interested in these things, and when 
 they should have a missionary to reside permanently with them; but 
 that at present the people at Kairua were quite indifferent to all 
 religion. 
 
 6
 
 82 
 
 ROYAL WOMEN MAKING TAPA. 
 
 For several days past we have observed many of the people bring- 
 ing home from their plantations bundles of young wauti, (a variety 
 of the morus papyrifera,) from which we infer that this is the season 
 for cloth-making in this part of the island. 
 
 This morning, the 17th, we perceived Keoua, the governor's wife, 
 and her female attendants, with about forty other women, under the 
 pleasant shade of a beautiful clump of cordia or kou trees, employed 
 in stripping off the bark from bundles of wauti sticks, for the pur- 
 pose of making it into cloth. 
 
 The sticks were generally from six to ten feet long, and about an 
 inch in diameter at the thickest end. They first cut the bark, the 
 whole length of the stick, with a sharp serrated shell, and having 
 carefully peeled it off, rolled it into small coils, the inner bark being 
 outside. In this state it is left some time, to make it flat and smooth. 
 
 Keoua not only worked herself, but appeared to take the superin- 
 tendence of the whole party. Whenever a fine piece of bark was 
 found, it was shewn to her, and put aside to be manufactured into 
 wairiirii, or some other particular cloth. With lively chat and cheer- 
 ful song, they appeared to beguile the hours of labour until noon, 
 when having finished their work, they repaired to their dwellings. 
 
 CULTIVATION OF TAPA PLANTS. 
 
 The wauti plant, of which the greater part of the cloth on this side 
 of the island is made, is cultivated with much care in their gardens 
 of sugar-cane, plantain, &c. and whole plantations are sometimes de- 
 voted exclusively to its growth. Slips about a foot long are planted 
 nearly two feet apart, in long rows, four or six feet asunder. Two 
 or three shoots rise from most of the slips, and grow till they are six 
 or twelve feet high, according to the richness of the soil, or the kind 
 of cloth for which they are intended. Any small branches that may 
 sprout out from the side of the long shoot, are carefully plucked off, 
 and sometimes the bud at the top of the plant is pulled out, to cause 
 an increase in its size. 
 
 Occasionally they are two years growing, and seldom reach the size 
 at which they are fit for use, in less than twelve or even eighteen 
 months, when they are cut off near the ground, the old roots being 
 left, to produce shoots another year. 
 
 The bark, when stripped off and rolled up, as described above, is 
 left several days; when, on being unrolled, it appears quite flat. The 
 outer bark is then taken off, generally by scraping it with a large 
 shell, and the inner bark, of which the cloth is made, is occasionally 
 laid in water, to extract the resinous substances it may contain. Each 
 piece of bark is then taken singly, and laid across a piece of wood,
 
 83 
 
 twelve or eighteen feet long, six inches square, smooth on the top, 
 but having a groove on the under side, and is beaten with a square 
 mallet of hard heavy wood, about a foot in length, and two inches 
 wide; three sides are carved in grooves or ribs, the other into squares, 
 in order that one mallet may answer for the different kinds of cloth 
 they are accustomed to make. 
 
 When they have beaten the bark till it is spread out nine inches 
 or a foot wide, it is either dried and reserved for future use, or 
 wrapped up in leaves, laid by for a day or two, and then beaten out 
 afresh till the required extent and texture are produced. 
 
 DIFFERENT KINDS OF TAPA. 
 
 Various sorts of cloth are made with this plant, some remarkably 
 fine and even; that which has been beaten with a mallet, carved in 
 different patterns, much resembles muslin at first sight, while that 
 made with a grooved mallet appears, until closely examined, some- 
 thing like dimity. There are other kinds, very thick and tough, 
 which look like wash-leather; but the most common sort is the pau, 
 worn round the waists of the females. To make this, a piece of 
 bark is beaten till it is four yards long, and more than a yard wide, 
 and of an equal texture throughout. 
 
 Sometimes two or three pieces of bark are necessary to make one 
 piece of cloth. Five of these pieces, when finished, are spread out 
 one upon the other, and fastened together at one end. These five 
 pieces make only one pau. The inside pieces are usually white, or 
 yellow; but the outside piece is always stained, or painted, with vege- 
 table dyes of various colours. 
 
 No gum is used in the manufacture of the pau, except that con- 
 tained in the bark, yet the fibres adhere firmly together. Those 
 painted red or yellow, &c. are sometimes rubbed over with a vegetable 
 oil, in which chips of sandal wood, or the seeds of the pandanus 
 odorotissima, have been steeped. This is designed to perfume the 
 cloth, and render is impervious to wet; it is, however, less durable 
 than the common pau. 
 
 SLEEPING AND CLOTHING TAPAS. 
 
 There is another kind of cloth, called tapa moe, (sleeping cloth,) 
 made principally for the chiefs, who use it to wrap themselves in at 
 night, while they sleep. It is generally three or four yards square, 
 very thick, being formed of several layers of common tapa, cemented 
 with gum, and beaten with a grooved mallet till they are closely inter- 
 woven. The colour is various, either white, yellow, brown, or black, 
 according to the fancy of its owner. 
 
 Nearly resembling the tapa moe is the kihei, only it is both thinner
 
 84 
 
 and smaller. It is made in the same manner, and is about the size 
 of a large shawl, or counterpane. Sometimes it is brown, but more 
 frequently white or yellow, intermixed with red and black. It ia 
 generally worn by the men, thrown loosely over one shoulder, passed 
 under the opposite arm, and tied in front, or on the other shoulder. 
 
 TAPAS FOR PA-US AND MALOS. 
 
 But the best kind of cloth maae with the cultivated plant is the 
 wairiirii, which is made into paus for the females, and maros for 
 the men. 
 
 The paus are generally four yards long, and about one yard wide, 
 very thick, beautifully painted with brilliant red, yellow, and black 
 colours, and covered over with a fii^e gum and resinous varnish, which 
 not only preserves the colours, but renders the cloth impervious and 
 durable. The maros are about a foot wide, and three or four yards 
 long. 
 
 The colours they employ are procured from the leaves, bark, ber- 
 ries, or roots of indigenous plants, and require much skill in their 
 preparation. 
 
 One or two kinds of earth are also used in mixing the darker 
 colours. Since foreigners have visited them, they have found, upon 
 trial, that our colours are better than theirs, and the paint they 
 purchase from ships has superseded in a great degree the native 
 colours, in the painting of all the most valuable kinds of cloth. 
 
 MANNER OF PAINTING TAPAS. 
 
 Their manner of painting is ingenious. They cut the pattern they 
 intend to stamp on their cloth, on the inner side of a narrow piece 
 of bamboo, spread their cloth before them on a board, and having 
 their colours properly mixed, in a calabash by their side, dip the 
 point of the bamboo, which they hold in their right hand, into the 
 paint, strike it against the edge of the calabash, place it on the right 
 or left side of the cloth, and press it down with the fingers of the 
 left hand. The pattern is dipped in the paint after every impres- 
 sion, which is continued till the cloth is marked quite across, when it 
 is moved on the board, and the same repeated till it is finished. 
 
 The tapa in general lasts but a little while, compared with any kind 
 of wove cloth, yet if kept free from wet, which causes it to rend like 
 paper, some kinds may be worn a considerable time. The fabrica- 
 tion of it shews both invention and industry; and whether we con- 
 sider its different textures, its varied and regular patterns, its beau- 
 tiful colours, so admirably preserved by means of the varnish, we are 
 at once convinced, that the people who manufacture it are neither 
 deficient in taste, nor incapable of receiving the improvements of
 
 85 
 
 civilized society. Specimens of the principal kinds of native cloth, 
 manufactured in the Sandwich Islands, may be seen in the Missionary 
 Museum, Austin Friars. 
 
 During the forenoon, Mr. Harwood made an auger, to aid the 
 well-diggers in boring the rocks. I walked with Mr. Thurston to 
 see what progress they had made, and to encourage them to persevere. 
 The rocks they said were hard, and their progress slow, yet they were 
 not discouraged, but hoped to find the work easier as they descended. 
 
 RELIGIOUS DISCUSSION WITH GOVERNOR KUAKINI. 
 
 After dinner, the governor entered freely into conversation on reli- 
 gious subjects, particularly respecting the resurrection of the body, 
 the destruction of the heavens and the earth at the last day, and 
 the final judgment. 
 
 After listening attentively to what was said upon these subjects, he 
 inquired about the locality of heaven and hell. 
 
 He was told that we did not know where the one or the other was 
 situated, as none had ever returned from either, to tell mankind 
 about them; and we only know, that there is a place called heaven, 
 where God makes glorious manifestations of his perfections, and 
 where all good men are perfectly happy; and that there is a place 
 where wicked men are shut up in darkness, and endure endless misery. 
 
 He then said, "How do you know these things?" I asked for his 
 bible, and translated the passages which inculcate the doctrine of the 
 resurrection, &c. and told him it was from that book we obtained all 
 our knowledge of these things; and that it was the contents of that 
 book which we had come to teach the people of Hawaii. 
 
 THE GOVERNOR ASKS EMBARRASSING QUESTIONS. 
 
 He then asked if all the people in our native countries were 
 acquainted with the bible. 
 
 I answered, that from the abundant means of instruction enjoyed 
 there, the greater portion of the people had either read the book, 
 or had in some other way become acquainted with its principal con- 
 tents. 
 
 He then said, How is it that such numbers of them swear, get 
 intoxicated, and do so many things prohibited in that book? 
 
 He was told, that there was a vast difference between knowing 
 the word of God, and obeying it; and that it was most likely, those 
 persons knew their conduct was displeasing to God, yet persisted 
 in it, because agreeable to their corrupt inclinations. 
 
 He asked if God would not be angry with us for troubling him so 
 frequently with our prayers? If he was like man, he said, he wafl 
 sure he would.
 
 86 
 
 I replied, that God was always "waiting to be gracious," more 
 ready to hear than we were to pray; that indeed he was not like 
 man, or his patience would have been exhausted long ago by the 
 wickedness of men; but that he continued exercising long-suffering 
 and forbearance towards sinners, that they might turn from their 
 wickedness and live. 
 
 THE TRIP BEGINS. 
 
 We supped with the governor as usual, and, after family worship 
 with his household, prepared our baggage for our journey, some of 
 which we left to be forwarded by the Ainoa to Waiakea, a district on 
 the eastern side of the island. 
 
 About eleven o'clock in the forenoon, on the 18th, we waited on the 
 governor to express our grateful sense of the generous hospitality we 
 had experienced from him, during our protracted stay at Kairua. 
 We also thanked him for the friendly advice he had given, and the 
 acceptable aid he had so kindly furnished for the prosecution of our 
 journey, and informed him that we were ready to proceed. He had 
 before given instructions to our guide. He now directed the man who 
 was going in the canoe, to take care of our things, and told us he 
 would send some men to carry our baggage by land, as far as Keara- 
 ke'kua. We then took leave of him, and proceeded on our journey. 
 Messrs. Bishop and Harwood went in the canoe, the rest of our num- 
 ber travelled on foot. 
 
 MAKOA, THE GUIDE, DESCRIBED. 
 
 Our guide, Makoa, who had been the king's messenger many 
 years, and was well acquainted with the island, led the way. He 
 was rather a singular looking little man, between forty and fifty 
 years of age. A thick tuft of jet black curling hair shaded his 
 wrinkled forehead, and a long bunch of the same kind hung down 
 behind each of his ears. The rest of his head was cropped as short 
 as shears could make it. His small black eyes were ornamented 
 with tataued vandyke semicircles. 
 
 Two goats, impressed in the same indelible manner, stood rampant 
 over each of his brows; one, like the supporter of a coat of arms, was 
 fixed on each side of his nose, and two more guarded the corners of 
 his mouth. 
 
 The upper part of his beard was shaven close; but that which grew 
 under his chin, was drawn together, braided for an inch or two, and 
 then tied in a knot, while the extremities below the knot spread out in 
 curls like a tassel. 
 
 A light kihei, (cloth worn like a shawl,) was carelessly thrown 
 over one shoulder, and tied in a knot on the other; and a large fan,
 
 87 
 
 made of cocoa-nut leaf, in his hand, served to beat away the flies, or 
 the boys, when either became too numerous or troublesome. 
 
 THE COUNTRY SOUTH OF KAILUA. 
 
 Leaving Kairua, we passed through the villages thickly scattered 
 alonsr the shore to the southward. The countrv around looked un- 
 
 
 
 *TJgr^Si^!§§s 
 
 oJSfeSss«Ss^-? 
 
 MAKOA . 
 
 The Guide who Piloted the Party Around Hawaii. 
 
 usually green and cheerful, owing to the frequent rains, which for 
 some months past have fallen on this side of the island. Even the 
 barren lava, over which we travelled, seemed to veil its sterility 
 beneath frequent tufts of tall waving grass, or spreading shrubs and 
 flowers. 
 
 The sides of the hills, laid out for a considerable extent in gardens
 
 88 
 
 and fields, and generally cultivated with potatoes, and other vegeta- 
 bles, -were beautiful. 
 
 The number of heiaus, and depositories of the dead, which we 
 passed, convinced us that this part of the island must formerly have 
 been populous. The latter were built with fragments of lava, laid 
 up evenly on the outside, generally about eight feet long, from four 
 to six broad, and about four feet high. Some appeared very ancient, 
 others had evidently been standing but a few years. 
 
 HEIAU OF KAUAIKAHALOA DESCRIBED. 
 
 At Ruapua we examined an interesting heiau, called Kauaika- 
 haroa, built of immense blocks of lava, and found its dimensions to 
 be 150 feet by 70. At the north end was a smaller enclosure, sixty 
 feet long and ten wide, partitioned off by a high wall, with but one 
 narrow entrance. The places where the idols formerly stood were 
 apparent, though the idols had been removed. 
 
 The spot where the altar had been erected could be distinctly 
 traced; it was a mound of earth, paved with smooth stones, and sur- 
 rounded by a firm curb of lava. The adjacent ground was strewed 
 with bones of the ancient offerings. 
 
 The natives informed us that four principal idols were formerly 
 worshipped there, one of stone, two of wood, and one covered with 
 red feathers. 
 
 One of them, they said, was brought from a foreign country. Their 
 names were Kanenuiakea, (great and wide spreading Kane,) who was 
 brought from Tauai, Kaneruruhonua, (earth-shaking Kane,) Rorama- 
 kaeha, and Kekuaaimanu. 
 
 GODS OP THE FISHERMEN. 
 
 Leaving the heiau, we passed by a number of smaller temples, 
 principally on the sea shore, dedicated to Kuura, a male, and Hina, a 
 female idol, worshipped by fishermen, as they were supposed to pre- 
 side over the sea, and to conduct or impel to the shores of Hawaii, 
 the various shoals of fish that visit them at different seasons of the 
 year. The first of any kind of fish, taken in the season, was always 
 presented to them, especially the operu, a kind of herring. This 
 custom exactly accords with the former practice of the inhabitants of 
 Maui and the adjacent islands, and of the Society islanders. 
 
 GOVERNOR'S WIFE STILL MAKING TAP A. 
 
 At two p. m. we reached Horuaroa, a large and populous district. 
 Here we found Keoua, the governor's wife, and her attendants, who 
 had come from Kairua for wauti, with which to make cloth. 
 
 Shortly after, we reached a village called Karuaokalani, (the second
 
 89 
 
 heaven,) where was a fine heiau, in good preservation. It is called 
 Pakiha; its dimensions were 270 feet by 210. 
 
 "We could not learn the idol to which it was dedicated, but were 
 informed it was built in the time of Keakealani, who, according to 
 tradition, was queen of Hawaii about eleven generations back. 
 
 The walls were solid, thick, and nearly entire; and the singular 
 manner in which the stones were piled upon the top, like so many 
 small spires, gave it an unusually interesting appearance. 
 
 A TALE OP A GIANT. 
 
 Before we left Karuaokalani the inhabitants pointed out to us a 
 spot called Maukareoreo, the place of a celebrated giant of that 
 name, who was one of the attendants of TImi, king of Hawaii, about 
 twelve generations since, and who, they told us, was so tall that he 
 could pluck the cocoa-nuts from the trees as he walked along; and 
 when the king was playing in the surf, where it was five or six 
 fathoms deep, would walk out to him without being wet above his 
 loins; and when he was in a canoe, if he saw any fish lying among 
 the coral at the same depth, would just put his hand down and take 
 them. 
 
 They also told us he was a great warrior, and that, to his prowess 
 principally, Umi was indebted for many of his victories. 
 
 The Hawaiians are fond of the marvellous, as well as many 
 people who are better informed; and probably this passion, together 
 with the distance of time since Maukareoreo existed, has led them 
 to magnify one of Umi's followers, of perhaps a little larger stature 
 than his fellows, into a giant sixty feet high. 
 
 GROVES OF KOU TREES. 
 
 Our road now lay through a pleasant part of the district, thickly 
 inhabited, and ornamented occasionally with clumps of kou trees. 
 Several spots were pointed out to us, where the remains of heiaus, 
 belonging to the late king Tamehameha, were still visible. 
 
 After travelling some time, we came to Kanekaheilani, a large 
 heiau more than 200 feet square. In the midst of it was a clear pool 
 of brackish water, which the natives told us was the favourite bath- 
 ing place of Tamehameha, and which he allowed no other person to 
 use. A rude figure, carved in stone, standing on one side of the 
 gateway by which we entered, was the only image we saw here. 
 
 About fifty yards further on, was another heiau, called Hale o 
 Tairi (house of Tairi). It was built by Tamehameha soon after he 
 had assumed the government of the island. Only one mutilated image 
 was now standing, though it is evident that, but a few years ago, 
 there had been many.
 
 90 
 
 TAIRI THE FLYING WAR GOD. 
 
 The natives were very desirous to shew us the place where the image 
 of Tairi the war-god stood, and told us, that frequently in the even- 
 ing he used to be seen flying about in the neighbourhood, in the form 
 of a luminous substance like a flame, or like the tail of a comet. 
 
 We told them that the luminous appearance which they saw was an 
 occurrence common to other countries, and produced by natural 
 causes: that the natives of the Society Islands formerly, whenever 
 they observed such a phenomenon, supposed it to be Tane, one of their 
 gods, taking his flight from one marae to another, or passing through 
 the district seeking whom he might destroy, and were consequently 
 filled with terror; but now, they wondered how they could ever have 
 given way to such fears, from so inoffensive a circumstance. 
 
 We asked them if they did not see the same appearances now, 
 though the god had been destroyed, and his worship discontinued? 
 
 They said, "No; it has not been seen since the abolition of 
 idolatry. " 
 
 We assured them it did not proceed from the power of the god 
 Tairi, but that it was a luminous vapour, under the control of Jehovah, 
 the creator and governor of all things which they beheld. 
 
 CANOE MAKING — FUTURE STATE DISCUSSED. 
 
 We walked on to Pahoehoe, where we entered a large house, in 
 which many workmen were employed in making canoes. About fifty 
 people soon after assembled around us. We asked them if they 
 would like to hear about the true God, and the way of salvation? 
 They answered, Yes. I then addressed them for about twenty minutes 
 on the first principles of the gospel. As soon as I began to speak, 
 they all sat down, and observed perfect silence. 
 
 Shortly after this service we took our leave, and proceeded along 
 the shore to Kahaluu; where a smart shower of rain obliged us to 
 take shelter in a house by the road side. While resting there, the 
 voice of wailing reached our ears. We inquired whence it came? 
 and were informed by the people of the house, that a sick person in 
 the neighbourhood had just expired. 
 
 We asked where the soul was gone to? 
 
 They answered, they knew not whither, but that it would never 
 return. 
 
 I spoke to them respecting the condition of departed soula; the 
 resurrection of the body, and the general judgment which will follow; 
 telling them afterwards of the love of Christ, who had brought life 
 and immortality to light, and by his death secured eternal happiness 
 to all that believe in him.
 
 91 
 
 They listened attentively, and continued the conversation till the 
 rain abated, when we pursued our journey. 
 
 APPROACHES TO AND ENVIRONS OF KEAUHOU. 
 
 We passed another large heiau, and travelled about a mile across 
 a rugged bed of lava, which had evidently been ejected from a vol- 
 cano more recently than the vast tracts of the same substance by 
 which it was surrounded. It also appeared to have been torn to pieces, 
 and tossed up in the most confused manner, by some violent con- 
 vulsion of the earth, at the time it was in a semifluid state. 
 
 There was a kind of path formed across the most level part of it, 
 by large smooth round stones, brought from the sea-shore, and placed 
 about three or four feet apart. By stepping from one to another of 
 these, we passed over the roughest piece of lava we had yet seen; 
 and soon after five p. m. we arrived at Keauhou, a pleasant village 
 containing one hundred and thirty-five houses, and about eight miles 
 from Kairua. Messrs. Bishop and Harwood reached the same place 
 about an hour earlier, and here we proposed to spend the night. 
 
 We had not been long in the village, when about one hundred and 
 fifty people collected round the house in which we stopped. 
 
 After singing and prayer, Mr. Thurston preached to them. They 
 gave good attention; and though we conversed with them a consid- 
 erable time after the service was ended, they still thronged our house, 
 and seemed unwilling to disperse. 
 
 ESTIMATE OF POPULATION — TALKS WITH THE PEOPLE. 
 
 During our walk from Kairua to this place we counted six hundred 
 and ten houses, and allowed one hundred more for those who live 
 among the plantations on the sides of the hills. 
 
 Beckoning five persons to each house, which we think not far from 
 a correct calculation, the population of the tract through which we 
 have travelled today will be about 3550 souls. 
 
 We also passed nineteen heiaus, of different dimensions, some of 
 which we carefully examined. 
 
 Late in the evening we spread our mats on the loose pebbles of 
 which the floor of the house was formed, and, thankful for the mer- 
 cies we had received, laid ourselves down, and enjoyed a comfortable 
 night's repose. Thermometer at sunset 71°. 
 
 Early the next morning numbers of the natives collected around our 
 lodgings, and when informed that we intended to perform religious 
 worship, sat down on the ground, and became quite silent. After 
 singing a hymn in their language, I gave a short exhortation, followed 
 by prayer. 
 
 They afterwards kept us in conversation till about half-past eight,
 
 92 
 
 •when we set out from Keauhou, and pursued our journey. Mr. Har- 
 wood proceeded in the canoe; the rest of our number travelled on 
 foot along the shore. 
 
 LAVA COUNTRY DESCRIBED. 
 
 Our way lay across a rough tract of lava, resembling that which 
 we passed over the preceding afternoon. In many places it seemed 
 as if the surface of the lava had become hard, while a few inches 
 underneath it had remained semifluid, and in that state had been 
 broken up, and left in its present confused and irregular form. This 
 rugged appearance of the external lava was probably produced by the 
 expansive force of the heated air beneath the crust, but that could 
 not have caused the deep chasms or fissures which we saw in several 
 places. 
 
 We also observed many large spherical volcanic stones, the surface 
 of which had been fused, and in some places had peeled off like a 
 crust or shell, an inch or two in thickness. The centre of some of 
 these stones, which we broke, was of a dark blue colour and com- 
 pact texture, and did not appear to have been at all affected by the 
 fire which had calcined the surface. 
 
 SCENE OP BATTLE WITH SUPPORTERS OF IDOLATRY. 
 
 After travelling about two miles over this barren waste, we reached 
 the place where, in the autumn of 1819, the decisive battle was 
 fought between the forces of Eihoriho, the present king, and his 
 cousin, Kekuaokalani, in which the latter was slain, his followers com- 
 pletely overthrown, and the cruel system of idolatry, which he took 
 up arms to support, effectually destroyed. 
 
 The natives pointed out to us the place where the king's troops, led 
 on by Karaimoku, were first attacked by the idolatrous party. We 
 saw several small heaps of stones, which our guide informed us were 
 the graves of those who, during the conflict, had fallen there. 
 
 We were then shewn the spot on which the king's troops formed a 
 line from the sea-shore towards the mountains, and drove the oppos- 
 ing party before them to a rising ground, where a stone fence, about 
 breast high, enabled the enemy to defend themselves for some time, 
 but from which they were at length driven by a party of Karaimoku 's 
 warriors. 
 
 The small tumuli increased in number as we passed along, until we 
 came to a place called Tuamoo. Here Kekuaokalani made his last 
 stand, rallied his flying forces, and seemed, for a moment, to turn 
 the scale of victory; but being weak with the loss of blood, from a 
 wound he had received in the early part of the engagement, he 
 fainted and fell. However, he soon revived, and, though unable to
 
 93 
 
 stand, sat on a fragment of lava, and twice loaded and fired his 
 musket on the advancing party. He now received a ball in liis left 
 breast, and immediately covering his face with his feather cloak, ex- 
 pired in the midst of his friends. 
 
 MANONA, THE FAITHFUL WIFE. 
 
 His wife Manona during the whole of the day fought by his side 
 with steady and dauntless courage. 
 
 A few moments after her husband's death, perceiving Karaimoku 
 and his sister advancing, she called out for quarter; but the words 
 had hardly escaped from her lips, when she received a ball in her 
 left temple, fell upon the lifeless body of her husband, and instantly 
 expired. 
 
 The idolaters having lost their chief, made but feeble resistance 
 afterwards; yet the combat, which commenced in the forenoon, con- 
 tinued till near sunset, when the king's troops, finding their enemies 
 had all either fled or surrendered, returned to Kairua. 
 
 Karaimoku grieved much at the death of Kekuaokalani, who was 
 his own sister's son. He delayed the engagement as long as pos- 
 sible; and, the same morning that the battle took place, sent a mes- 
 senger, addressing the young chief as his son, and requesting him 
 to refrain from hostilities till they could have an interview, and, if 
 possible, effect an accommodation. But the message was rejected, 
 and the messenger obliged to jump into the sea, and swim to save 
 his life. In the moment of victory, also, he acted with humanity; and, 
 contrary to the usual custom, the vanquished were not pursued and 
 murdered in their retreats. 
 
 A CAVE OF REFUGE — WOMEN IN BATTLE. 
 
 A little way south of the spot where the chief fell, was a small 
 cave, into which, in the confusion that followed the death of Kekua- 
 okalani, a woman attached to his party crept, and, drawing a piece 
 of lava over its mouth, remained until night, beneath whose friendly 
 cover she fled to the mountains, not knowing that the victors had 
 returned without pursuing their foes. 
 
 The wives of warriors often accompanied their husbands to battle, 
 and were frequently slain. Their practice, in this respect, resembled 
 that of the Society islanders on similar occasions. They generally 
 followed in the rear, carrying calabashes of water, or of poc, a little 
 dried fish, or other portable provision, with which to recruit their hus- 
 band's strength when weary, or afford a draught of water when 
 thirsty or faint; but they followed, more particularly, to be at hand 
 if their husbands should be wounded. 
 
 Some women, more courageous than the rest, or urged on by affec-
 
 94 
 
 tion, advanced side by side with their husbands to the front of the 
 battle, bearing a small calabash of water in one band, and a spear, 
 a dart, or a stone, in the other; and in the event of the husband's 
 being killed, they seldom survived. 
 
 A MONUMENT TO KEKUAOKALANI AND MANONA. 
 
 A pile of stones, somewhat larger than the rest, marked the spot 
 where the rival chief and his affectionate and heroic wife expired. 
 A few yards nearer the sea, an oblong pile of stones, in the form of 
 a tomb, about ten feet long and six wide, was raised over the grave 
 in which they were both interred. A number of lowly flowering 
 bushes grew around, and a beautiful convulvulus in full bloom almost 
 covered it with foliage and flowers. 
 
 We could not view this rudely constructed tomb without renewed 
 lamentation over the miseries of war, and a strong feeling of regret 
 for the untimely end of the youthful pair, especially for the affec- 
 tionate Manona, whom even the horrors of savage fight, in which the 
 demon of war wears his most terrific form, could not prevent from 
 following the fortune, and sharing the dangers, that she might ad- 
 minister to the comfort, of her much-loved husband. This feeling 
 was not a little increased by the recollection of the delusion of which 
 they were the ill-fated victims, and in support of which they were 
 prodigal of their blood. Alas! they knew not, till from the fatal field 
 they entered the eternal world, the value of that life which they had 
 lost, and the true nature of that cause in which they had sacrified it. 
 
 The piles of stones rose thick around the spot where they lay; and 
 we were informed that they were the graves of his kahu, (particular 
 friends and companions,) who stood by him to the last, manifesting a 
 steadfastness which even their enemies admired, and a degree of 
 courage worthy of being exercised in a better cause. 
 
 THE ABOLITION OF IDOLATRY AND THE TABU. 
 
 Kekuaokalani was first cousin to Eihoriho. He is represented by 
 some as having been an enterprising and restless young man, aspiring 
 to share the government with his cousin, if not to reign in his stead. 
 
 The late king Tamehameha, a short time before his death, left the 
 government of the islands to his eldest son Eihoriho, and the care 
 of the gods, their temples, and the support of their worship, to the 
 king and Kekuaokalani, together with the rest of the chiefs. 
 
 Almost the first public act of the young king Eihoriho, was the 
 abolition of the national idolatry, and all the restrictions of the tabu 
 system by which it was upheld. This system, with all its superstitious 
 cruelty, had existed, and had exerted its degrading yet almost super- 
 natural influence over the people, from time immemorial; and it re-
 
 95 
 
 quired no small degree of courage by one single act to abrogate its 
 inflexible laws, and destroy its dreaded power. But several acts of 
 Kihoriho's reign shew that he possessed a mind well adapted for such 
 undertakings. 
 
 LIHOLIHO'S MOTIVES FOR ABOLISHING TABU. 
 
 His motives for this decisive measure appear to have been, in the 
 first place, a desire to ameliorate the condition of his wives, and the 
 females in general, whom the tabu sunk into a state of extreme 
 wretchedness and degradation, obliging them to subsist only on in- 
 ferior kinds of food, and not allowing them to cook their provisions, 
 such as they were, at the same fire, or even eat in the same place 
 where the men took theirs. 
 
 And in the second place, he seems to have been influenced by a 
 wish to diminish the power of the priests, and avoid that expendi- 
 ture of labour and property which the support of idolatry required, 
 and which he was anxious to employ for other purposes. He had 
 also heard what Pomare and the Tahitian chiefs had done in the 
 Society Islands. 
 
 THE HIGH-PRIEST'S ADVICE. 
 
 He consulted some of the principal chiefs, particularly Karai- 
 moku, who declared his intention not to keep or observe any more 
 tabu's; and though several of the priests said the gods would recom- 
 pense any neglect with vengeance, Hevaheva, the high priest of his 
 father's war-god, said no evil consequences would follow the discon- 
 tinuance of the worship of the gods. 
 
 Soon after this, the king made a feast, to which many chiefs of the 
 different islands were invited. The guests assembled, as usual; the 
 men in one place, the women in another. The food was cut up, and 
 when all were about to begin their meal, the king ordered his attend- 
 ants to carry some fowls, and such prohibited food, to the place 
 where his wives and other females were assembled; he then went, 
 and, sitting down with them, began to eat, and directed them to do 
 the same. 
 
 A shout of surprise burst from the multitude around; several other 
 chiefs followed his example. 
 
 The men and women sat promiscuously, and ate the same food, 
 which they called ai noa, general or common eating, in opposition to 
 the former ai tabu, restricted or sacred eating. 
 
 The ai tabu was one of the perpetual restrictions imposed by their 
 idolatry on all ranks of the people, from their birth until their death.
 
 96 
 
 PRIESTHOOD ABOLISHED— IDOL WORSHIP ENDED. 
 
 This public violation of it manifested the king's intention to de- 
 stroy the whole system, which very shortly after was accomplished 
 by the priest Hevaheva's resigning his office, and the king declaring 
 that there should no longer be any priests, or any worship rendered 
 to the gods. i 
 
 Kekuaokalani, though he had no share in the government, yet had, 
 in common with the other high chiefs, received a charge concerning 
 the gods. Urged on by the priests, who promised him victory by a 
 superstitious reverence for the idols of his ancestors, and perhaps also 
 by a hope of defeating Kihoriho, and securing the government to 
 himself, he took up arms. 
 
 EFFECT OF ABOLITION OF TABU. 
 
 The abolition of idolatry by Kihoriho was thus the immediate occa- 
 sion of the war, which terminating in his favour, left him sole monarch 
 of the Sandwich Islands. This was the summit of his ambition, and 
 the consummation of his wishes, though probably the least among the 
 all-wise and benevolent purposes of Him, who ruleth all things after 
 the counsel of his own will, and causeth even the wrath of man to 
 praise him. 
 
 Little did the pagan chief imagine, when he collected his forces, 
 offered his sacrifices, and, preceded by his war-god, marched to the 
 battle, that he was urging on his way to remove the most formidable 
 barrier that existed to the introduction of a religion which should 
 finally triumph over every system of idolatry in the world; and as 
 little did the victorious chiefs, when they beheld themselves mas- 
 ters of the field, and returned in triumph to the king, think that suc- 
 cess had only prepared the way for their own subjection to a peaceful 
 Prince, whose heralds (then on their way) should soon proclaim his 
 laws in their camp, and demand their allegiance to his crown; — 
 whose divine power should erect among them a kingdom, of which 
 they themselves should delight to become subjects, and commence a 
 reign that should be everlasting. 
 
 AT HONUAINO AND HOKUKANO. 
 
 Leaving Tuamoo, we passed on to Honuaino, where, being thirsty 
 and weary, we sat down on the side of a canoe, under the shade of a 
 fine-spreading hibiscus, and begged a little water of the villagers. 
 
 We had not remained many minutes before we were surrounded 
 by about 150 people. After explaining to them in few words our 
 feelings on meeting them, we asked them if they would like to hear 
 what we had to say to them. They replied, Ae (yes,) and sat down 
 immediately.
 
 97 
 
 We sung a hymn and prayed, and I addressed them for about half an 
 hour on the first principles of Christianity. They all appeared grati- 
 fied, said they were naau po, (dark hearted,) and should be glad to 
 be instructed in all these things, if any body would teach them. 
 
 We now travelled on to Hokukano, where we passed a pahu tabu, 
 (sacred enclosure,) which the natives told us was built by Taraiopu, 
 (Terreoboo in Cook's Voyages,) king of the island at the time it was 
 discovered by Captain Cook. 
 
 A BURIAL TOMB AND SHARK HEIAU. 
 
 A little further on we examined a buoa (tomb) of a celebrated 
 priest. It was composed of loose stones, neatly laid, about eight 
 feet square and five high. 
 
 In the centre was a small mound of earth, higher than the walls; 
 over this a house had formerly been erected, but it was now fallen to 
 decay; around it were long poles, stuck in the earth, about three or 
 four inches apart, and united together at the top. 
 
 We asked why the grave was enclosed with those tall sticks? Some 
 said" it was a custom so to inter persons of consequence; others said 
 it was to prevent the spirit from coming out. 
 
 On the top of a high mountain, in the neighbourhood, stood the 
 remains of an old heiau, dedicated to Ukanipo, a shark, to which, we 
 were informed, all the people along the coast, for a considerable dis- 
 tance, used to repair, at stated times, with abundant offerings. 
 
 AT KAAWALOA. 
 
 Passing on along a rugged road, we reached Kaavaroa soon after 
 2 p. m. 
 
 Kamakau received us kindly, spread out a mat for us to sit down 
 on, handed us a calabash of good fresh water, (a great luxury on this 
 side of the island,) and ordered a goat to be prepared for our refresh- 
 ment. He appeared as zealous in his pursuit of truth, earnest in his 
 desires after his own salvation, and concerned for that of his people, 
 as when some of our party had formerly visited him. 
 
 One or two inferior chiefs, from a district belonging to him, in 
 the south part of the island, were sitting in the house when we en- 
 tered. He afterwards began to talk with them on matters of reli- 
 gion, with a seriousness and intelligence which surprised us. 
 
 In the afternoon Mr. Thurston and I climbed the rocks, which rise 
 in a north-east direction from the village, and visited the cave in 
 which the body of Captain Cook was deposited, on being first taken 
 from the beach. These rocks, which are entirely composed of lava, 
 are nearly two hundred feet high, and in some parts very steep. A 
 winding path of rather difficult ascent leads to the cave, which is
 
 98 
 
 situated on the face of the rocks, about half-way to the top. In 
 front of it is a kind of ledge three or four feet wide, and immedi- 
 ately over it the rocks rise perpendicularly for a yard or two, but 
 afterwards the ascent is gradual to the summit. 
 
 The cave itself is of volcanic formation, and appears to have 
 been one of those subterranean tunnels so numerous on the island, 
 by which the volcanoes in the interior sometimes discharge their 
 contents upon the shore. It is five feet high, and the entrance 
 about eight or ten feet wide. The roof and sides within are of 
 obsidian or hard vitreous lava; and along the floor it is evident that 
 in some remote period a stream of the same kind of lava has also 
 flowed. 
 
 INTERVIEWS WITH WITNESSES OP COOK'S DEATH. 
 
 There are a number of persons at Kaavaroa, and other places in 
 the islands, who either were present themselves at the unhappy dis- 
 pute, which in this vicinity terminated the valuable life of the 
 celebrated Captain Cook, or who, from their connexion with those 
 who were on the spot, are well acquainted with the particulars of 
 that melancholy event. With many of them we have frequently con- 
 versed, and though their narratives differ in a few smaller points, 
 they all agree in the main facts with the account published by Cap- 
 tain King, his successor. 
 
 "The foreigner," they say, "was not to blame; for, in the first 
 instance, our people stole his boat, and he, in order to recover it, 
 designed to take our king on board his ship, and detain him there till 
 it should be restored. 
 
 ''Kapena Kuke (Captain Cook's name is thus pronounced by the 
 natives) and Taraiopu our king were walking together towards the 
 shore, when our people, conscious of what had been done, thronged 
 around the king, and objected to his going any further. His wife 
 also joined her entreaties that he would not go on board the ships. 
 
 "While he was hesitating, a man came running from the other side 
 of the bay, entered the crowd almost breathless, and exclaimed, 'It 
 is war! — the foreigners have commenced hostilities, have fired on a 
 canoe from one of their boats, and killed a chief.' 
 
 CIRCUMSTANCES INCIDENT TO COOK'S DEATH. 
 
 "This enraged some of our people, and alarmed the chiefs, as they 
 feared Captain Cook would kill the king. The people armed them- 
 selves with stones, clubs, and spears. Kanona entreated her husband 
 not to go. All the chiefs did the same. The king sat down. 
 
 "The captain seemed agitated, and was walking towards his boat, 
 when one of our men attacked him with a spear: he turned, and
 
 99 
 
 ■with his double-barrelled gun shot the man who struck him. Some of 
 our people then threw stones at him, which being seen by his men 
 they fired on us. 
 
 "Captain Cook then endeavoured to stop his men from firing, but 
 could not, on account of the noise. He was turning again to speak 
 to us, when he was stabbed in the back with a pahoa; a spear was 
 at the same time driven through his body; he fell into the water, and 
 spoke no more. We have several times inquired, particularly of the 
 natives acquainted with the circumstances, whether Captain Cook 
 was facing them, or had his back towards them, when he received the 
 fatal thrust; and their answer, in general, has been as here stated, 
 which accords very nearly with Captain King's account, who says, 
 'Our unfortunate commander, the last time he was seen distinctly, 
 was standing at the water's edge, and calling out to the boats to 
 cease firing, and pull in.' 
 
 "If it be true, as some of those present have imagined, that the 
 marines and boatmen fired without his orders, and that he was de- 
 sirous of preventing any further bloodshed, it is not improbable, that 
 his humanity, on this occasion, proved fatal to him: for it was re- 
 marked, that whilst he faced the natives, none of them had offered 
 him any violence, but that having turned about, to give his orders to 
 the boats, he was stabbed in the back, and fell with his face into 
 the water." See Captain King's Continuation of Cook's Voyages, 
 4to. vol. iii. pages 45 and 46. 
 
 SOUVENIRS OF COOK. 
 
 "After he was dead, we all wailed. His bones were separated — 
 the flesh was scraped off and burnt, as was the practice in regard 
 to our own chiefs when they died. We thought he was the god 
 Kono, worshipped him as such, and after his death reverenced his 
 bones." 
 
 Not only were his bones so treated, but almost every relic left 
 with them. 
 
 Among other things, a sledge, which, from their description of it, 
 must have come from the north-west coast of America, left at the 
 islands by Captain Cook, or some of his companions, was afterwards 
 worshipped by the people. They called it, probably from its singular 
 shape, Opaitauarii, a crab or shrimp, for a chief to rest on; from opai, 
 a f-r:ib or shrimp, tau, to rest or sit, and arii, a chief. 
 
 Many of the chiefs frequently express the sorrow they feel when- 
 ever they think of the Captain; and even the common people usually 
 speak of these facts with apparent regret. Yet they exonerate the 
 king Taraiopu from all blame, as nothing was done by his orders.
 
 100 
 REGRET AT COOK'S DEATH. 
 
 I was once in a house in Oahu with Karaimoku, and several other 
 chiefs, looking over the plates in the folio edition of Cook 's Voyages. 
 They were greatly affected with the print which represented his 
 death, and inquired if I knew the names of those who were slain on 
 that occasion. 
 
 I perceived Karaimoku more than once wipe the tears from his 
 eyes, while conversing about this melancholy event. 
 
 He said, he recollected Captain Cook's visit, if not also his person, 
 though he was at Maui at the time of his death. 
 
 More than once, when conversing with us on the length of time the 
 missionaries had been in the Society Islands, they have said, Why 
 did you not come here sooner? Was it because we killed Captain 
 Cook? 
 
 WHY COOK'S BOAT WAS STOLEN. 
 
 We have sometimes asked them what inducement they had to 
 steal the boat, when they possessed so many canoes of their own. 
 
 They have generally answered, that they did not take it to trans- 
 port themselves from one island to another, for their own canoes 
 were more convenient, and they knew better how to manage them; 
 but because they saw it was not sewed together, but fastened with 
 nails. These they wanted, — therefore stole the boat, and broke it to 
 pieces the next day, in order to obtain the nails to make fish-hooks 
 with. 
 
 Wo have every reason to believe that this was the principal, if 
 not the only motive, by which they were actuated in committing the 
 depredation which ultimately led to such unhappy consequences. 
 
 They prize nails very highly; and though we do not know that 
 they ever went so far in their endeavours to obtain a more abundant 
 supply, as the Society islanders did, who actually planted them in 
 the ground, hoping they would grow like potatoes, or any other 
 vegetable, yet such is the value they still set on them, that the fisher- 
 men would rather receive a wrought nail, to make of it a fish-hook 
 according to their own taste, than the best English-made fish-hook 
 we could give them. 
 
 COOK SUPPOSED TO BE A GOD. 
 
 It has been supposed that the circumstance of Captain Cook's 
 bones being separated, and the flesh taken from them, was evidence 
 of a savage and unrelenting barbarity; but so far from this, it was 
 the result of the highest respect they could shew him. 
 
 We may also mention here, the reason for which the remains of 
 Captain Cook received, as was the case, the worship of a god.
 
 101 
 
 Among the kings who governed Hawaii during what may in its 
 chronology be called the fabulous age, was Eono or Orono; who, on 
 some account, became offended with his wife, and murdered her; but 
 afterwards lamented the act so much, as to induce a state of mental 
 derangement. In this state he travelled through all the islands, box- 
 ing and wrestling with every one he met. 
 
 He subsequently set sail in a singularly shaped canoe for Tahiti, or 
 a foreign country. After his departure he was deified by his country- 
 men, and annual games of boxing and wrestling were instituted to his 
 honour. 
 
 As soon as Captain Cook arrived, it was supposed, and reported, 
 that the god Eono was returned; the priests clothed him with the 
 sacred cloth worn only by the god, conducted him to their temples, 
 sacrificed animals to propitiate his favour, and hence the people pros- 
 trated themselves before him as he walked through the villages. 
 
 WHAT UNDECEIVED THE NATIVES. 
 
 But when, in the attack made upon him, they saw his blood run- 
 ning, and heard his groans, they said, "No, this is not Eono." 
 
 Some, however, after his death, still supposed him to be Eono, and 
 expected he would appear again. 
 
 Some of his bones, his ribs, and breastbone, were considered sacred, 
 as part of Eono, and deposited in a heiau (temple) dedicated to Eono, 
 on the opposite side of the island. Captain King was led to suppose 
 that the bones of the trunk were burnt with the flesh. Part of them 
 probably were so disposed of, but not the whole. 
 
 It appears that none of them were returned; for, describing those 
 brought to Captain Clarke, which were all they received, he says, 
 "When we arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, and 
 delivered to the captain the bones wrapped up in a large quantity of 
 fine new cloth, and covered with a spotted cloak of black and white 
 feathers. 
 
 PORTIONS OP COOK'S BODY RETURNED. 
 
 We found in it both the hands of Captain Cook entire, which were 
 well known, from a remarkable scar on one of them, that divided 
 the thumb from the forefinger, the whole length of the metacarpal 
 bone; the skull, but with the scalp separated from it, and the bones 
 that form the face wanting; the scalp, with the hair upon it cut 
 short, and tli f cars adhering to it; the bones of both arms, with the 
 skin of the fore arms hanging to them. The thigh and leg bones 
 joined together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the joints 
 were entire; and the whole bore evident marks of having been in
 
 102 
 
 tho fire, except the hands, which had the flesh left upon them, and 
 were cut in several places, and crammed with salt, apparently with an 
 intention of preserving them. 
 
 The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, Eappo told us, had 
 been seized by different chiefs, and that Terreeoboo was using every 
 means to recover them. 
 
 Speaking of Eappo 's first visit after the death of Captain Cook, he 
 says, "We learned from this person, that the flesh of all the bodies 
 of our people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been burnt." 
 — Captain King's Continuation of Cook's Voyages, vol. iii. pages 78, 
 79, and 80. 
 
 There religious homage was paid to them, and from thence they 
 were annually carried in procession to several other heiaus, or borne 
 by the priests round the island, to collect the offerings of the people, 
 for the support of the worship of the god Kono. 
 
 The bones were preserved in a small basket of wicker-work, com- 
 pletely covered over with red feathers; which in those days were con- 
 sidered to be the most valuable articles the natives possessed, as being 
 sacred, and a necessary appendage to every idol, and almost every 
 object of religious homage throughout the islands of the Pacific. 
 They were supposed to add much to the power and influence of the 
 idol, or relic, to which they were attached. 
 
 VAIN SEARCH FOR COOK'S BONES. 
 
 The missionaries in the Society Islands had, by means of some 
 Sandwich islanders, been long acquainted with the circumstance of 
 some of Captain Cook's bones being preserved in one of their tem- 
 ples, and receiving religious worship; and since the time of my 
 arrival in company with the deputation from the London Missionary 
 Society, in 1822, every endeavour has been made to learn, though 
 without success, whether they were still in existence, and where 
 they were kept. 
 
 All those of whom inquiry has been made have uniformly asserted, 
 that they were formerly kept by the priests of Eono, and worshipped, 
 but have never given any satisfactory information as to where they 
 are now. 
 
 Whenever we have asked the king, or Hevaheva the chief priest, or 
 any of the chiefs, they have either told us they were under the 
 care of those who had themselves said they knew nothing about 
 them, or that they were now lost. 
 
 The best conclusion we may form is, that part of Captain Cook's 
 bones were preserved by the priests, and were considered sacred by 
 the people, probably till the abolition of idolatry in 1819: that, at that 
 period they were committed to the secret care of some chief, or de-
 
 103 
 
 posited by the priests who had charge of them, in a cave, unknown 
 to all besides themselves. The manner in which they were then dis- 
 posed of, will, it is presumed, remain a secret, till the knowledge of 
 it is entirely lost. 
 
 The priests and chiefs always appear, unwilling to enter into con- 
 versation on the subject, and desirous to avoid the recollection of the 
 unhappy circumstance. 
 
 COOK'S DEATH UNPREMEDITATED. 
 
 From the above account, as well as every other statement given by 
 the natives, it is evident that the death of Captain Cook was un- 
 premeditated, and resulted from their dread of his anger; a sense 
 of danger, on the momentary impulse of passion, exciting them to 
 revenge the death of the chief who had been shot. 
 
 Few intelligent visitors leave Hawaii without making a pilgrimage 
 to the spot where he fell. We have often visited it, and, though sev- 
 eral natives have been our guides on different occasions, they have 
 invariably conducted us to the same place. A number of cocoa-nut 
 trees grow near the shore, and there are perforations through two 
 of them, which the natives say were produced by the balls fired from 
 the boats on the occasion of his death. 
 
 "We have never walked over these rocks without emotions of melan- 
 choly interest. The mind invariably reverts to the circumstances of 
 their discovery; the satisfaction of the visitors; the surprise of the 
 natives; the worship they paid to their discoverer; and the fatal 
 catastrophe which here terminated his days; and, although in every 
 event we acknowledge an overruling Providence, we cannot but lament 
 the untimely end of a man whose discoveries contributed so much 
 to the advancement of science, introduced us to an acquaintance with 
 our antipodes, and led the way for the philosopher in his extended 
 researches, the merchant in his distant commerce, and the missionary 
 in his errand of mercy, to the unenlightened heathen at the ends of 
 the earth. 
 
 CHURCH AND SCHOOL AT SITE OP COOK'S DEATH. 
 
 It will be gratifying to the Christian reader to know, that, under 
 the auspices of the governor of the island, and the friendly in- 
 fluence of the present chief of the place, Naihe, and his wife Kapio- 
 lani, who are steady, intelligent, discreet, and one, if not both, it is 
 to be hoped, pious persons, a missionary station has since been formed 
 in this village; and that on the shore of the same bay, and not far 
 from the spot where this murderous affray took place, and whore 
 Captain Cook was killed, a school has been opened, and a house
 
 104 
 
 erected for Christian worship; and that the inhabitants of the 
 neighbourhood are instructed in the elements of learning and the 
 peaceful principle of the Christian religion. 
 
 INVESTIGATIONS AT KAAWALOA. 
 
 Towards evening we examined another buoa, similar to the one we 
 had passed at Hokukano. On entering it, we found part of a canoe, 
 several calabashes, some mats, tapa, &c. and three small idols, about 
 eighteen inches long, carefully wrapped in eloth. 
 
 The man who accompanied us said, "My father lies here, don't 
 disturb him; I have not yet done weeping for him, though he has 
 been dead some years." 
 
 We assured him of our sympathy with him in the loss of his 
 father; and having satisfied our curiosity, which he was willing to 
 gratify by allowing us to enter the tomb, we returned to Kama- 
 kau's, in conversation with whom we passed the evening. 
 
 He made many inquiries; such as, if he should bathe on the Sab- 
 bath, or eat fish that was caught or brought to him on that day; 
 whether the same body would rise again at the last day; and if the 
 spirit proceeded into the presence of God immediately on quitting 
 the body. 
 
 During our journey today, we have numbered 443 houses and eight 
 heiaus. In the shade, the thermometer at sun-rise stood at 71°, at 
 noon 76°, at sun-set 71°. 
 
 Much rain fell during the night, but the following morning was 
 bright and serene. It was the Sabbath, and a wide field of useful- 
 ness, presented its claim to our attention on this holy day, which we 
 felt was to be specially employed in exhibiting to the heathen around 
 the unsearchable riches of Christ. 
 
 RELIGIOUS INTEREST OP KAMAKAU. 
 
 The village of Kaavaroa, where we lodged, stretched along the 
 north shore of the bay. A number of villages with a considerable 
 population were scattered on the southern shore, and it appeared our 
 duty to go over and preach to them. Mr. Bishop and myself, having 
 procured a canoe from Kamakau, passed over the bay about nine a. m. 
 Messrs. Thurston, Goodrich, and Harwood, remained at Kaavaroa, 
 where Mr. Thurston preached to attentive congregations, both in the 
 morning and afternoon. 
 
 The good chief Kamakau was so anxious that his people might 
 profit by the word spoken, that he could not forbear interrupting 
 the preacher, to request them to be attentive. After the conclusion of 
 the services, he also addressed them, and exhorted them to be in 
 earnest in seeking salvation through Jesus Christ.
 
 105 
 
 The missionaries observed, with great pleasure, that during the day 
 he was frequently engaged in affectionate conversation on religious 
 subjects, with some one or other of his people. 
 
 PREACHING ALONG THE KONA COAST. 
 
 Landing on the southern shore of Kearake'kua, Mr. Bishop and I 
 passed through the villages of Kiloa, Waipunaula, and Kalama, in- 
 viting the people, as we went along, to attend a religious exercise. At 
 the latter place we entered a large house, built by Karaimoku's 
 mother, Kamauokalani, but at present belonging to Kekauonohi, his 
 niece. It was the largest in the place, and was ninety-three feet by 
 thirty in the inside. Here about three hundred people collected; and 
 I preached to them from Psalm xxv. 8. 
 
 After the service, they seemed desirous to enter into conversation 
 on what they had heard. One man stood up, and called out aloud, 
 "I desire Jehovah, the good Lord, for my God! but we have no one 
 to tell us about him." 
 
 SERVICES HAD TO BE REPEATED. 
 
 In the afternoon we sent the head man word to collect the people, 
 that they might hear the word of God again. It rained, but a con- 
 siderable number soon assembled in the large house, and I preached 
 to them from 1 Tim. i. 15. 
 
 Many kept arriving half an hour after the service had commenced, 
 which induced me to recapitulate the discourse, yet they did not seem 
 weary. When it was finished, the head man addressed the people, 
 recommending them to attend to what they had heard, and proposed 
 that henceforth they should abstain from all labour on the Sabbath, 
 and pray to Jehovah and Jesus Christ; assuring them that such was 
 his own intention. 
 
 After answering several inquiries, and encouraging them to adopt 
 the proposal that had been made by the head man, we bade them 
 farewell, and proceeded to another village. 
 
 Two large heaps of ti root, (a variety of dracaena, from the sweet 
 root of which an intoxicating drink is made,) and one or two vessels of 
 sugar-cane juice in a state of fermentation, preparatory to its being 
 distilled, were, during the day, thrown away at this place, in conse- 
 quence of some public remarks against intoxication. 
 
 EXPERIENCES AT KEEL 
 
 After leaving Kalama, we walked to Keei, a considerable village 
 on the south point of Kearake'kua bay. 
 
 As we approached it, we passed over the ground where, about forty 
 years ago, Tamehameha encamped with his warriors, previous to his 
 decisive battles with Kivaraao, the son of Taraiopu.
 
 106 
 
 On reaching the head man's house, about one hundred people soon 
 collected before the door, and I preached to them from Psalm lxx. 4. 
 concluding, as usual, with prayer. 
 
 We then went into the house prepared for our lodging, which the 
 good people soon made very comfortable, -by spreading some cocoa-nut 
 leaves on the ground, and covering them with a clean mat. 
 
 The kind host then proposed to fetch a pig, and have it dressed 
 for suppei*. We told him we had rather ho would not do it on the 
 Sabbath, but that, if agreeable, we should be glad to receive one in 
 the morning. 
 
 After family worship, we laid down on the mats to repose, thankful 
 for the opportunities of doing good which we had enjoyed, and for 
 the encouraging attention manifested by the people. 
 
 GEOLOGY AND BURIAL CAVES OF KEALAKEKTJA. 
 
 In the morning of July the 21st, the party at Kamakau's walked 
 through the village of Kaavaroa (Kowrowa in Cook's Voyages) to 
 the sea-side. The water in some places is deep, and, along the whole 
 extent of the north-west shore, a boat may pull in close to the rocks. 
 The rocks which form the beach on this and the opposite side of the 
 bay, are not, as was supposed by those who first described them, of 
 black coral, but composed entirely of lava, porous, hard, and of a very 
 dark colour, occasionally tinged with a ferruginous brown, bearing 
 marks of having been in a state of fusion. Part of it has probably 
 flowed through the cavern in which Captain Cook 's body was de- 
 posited, as traces of a stream of lava from thence to the plain below 
 are very distinct. 
 
 The steep' rocks at the head of the bay are of the same kind of sub- 
 stance, but apparently more ancient; and judging from appearances, 
 the lava of which they are composed had issued from its volcano be- 
 fore Kearake'kua existed; as part of the coast seems to have been 
 rent from these rocks, and sunk below the level of the sea, which has 
 filled up the indention thus made, and formed the present bay. 
 
 There are stiW a number of caves in the face of these rocks, which 
 are seldom resorted to for security in a time of danger, but used as 
 places of sepulture. Several were barricaded, to prevent any but the 
 proprietors entering them, or depositing bodies there. The natives 
 pointed out one in which the remains of Keoua, uncle of Tamehameha, 
 were laid. 
 
 Having accomplished the object of their excursion, which was to 
 procure some fragments of the rock on which Captain Cook had been 
 killed, they prepared to return. 
 
 On their return, they exchanged a piece of blue cotton, about three 
 yards in length, for four small idols. They were rudely-carved imi-
 
 107 
 
 tations of the human figure; one of them between three and four 
 feet in length, the others not more than eighteen inches. Having 
 breakfasted with Kamakau and his family, they took their leave, 
 and passed over to the other side of the bay. 
 
 HAWAIIAN THEORIES OP THE HEREAFTER. 
 
 The house in which Mr. Bishop and myself had lodged, was early 
 crowded with natives. Morning worship was held in the native lan- 
 guage, and a short address given to the people. 
 
 A very interesting conversation ensued, on the resurrection of the 
 dead at the last day, which had been spoken of in the address. The 
 people said they had heard of it by Kapihe, a native priest, who 
 formerly resided in this village, and who, in the time of Tameha- 
 meha, told that prince, that at his death he would see his ancestors, 
 and that hereafter all the kings, chiefs, and people of Hawaii, would 
 live again. 
 
 I asked them how this would be effected, and with what circum- 
 stances it would be attended; whether they would live again on Ha- 
 waii, or in Miru, the Hades of the Sandwich Islands? 
 
 They said there were two gods, who conducted the departed spirits 
 of their chiefs to some place in the heavens, where it was supposed 
 the spirits of kings and chiefs sometimes dwelt, and afterwards re- 
 turned with them to the earth, where they accompanied the move- 
 ments, and watched over the destinies, of their survivors. 
 
 The name of one of these gods was Kaonohiokala, the eye-ball of 
 the sun; and of the other, Kuahairo. 
 
 A REVELATION TO KAMEHAMEHA. 
 
 Kapihe was priest to the latter, and, by pretended revelation, in- 
 formed Tamehameha that when he should die, Kuahairo would take 
 his spirit to the sky, and accompany it to the earth again, when his 
 body would be reanimated and youthful; that he would have his wives, 
 and resume his government in Hawaii; and that, at the same time, the 
 existing generation would see and know their parents and ancestors, 
 and all the people who had died would be restored to life. 
 
 These, they said, were all the particulars they knew; but added, 
 that though at Kapihe 's suggestion many valuable offerings were 
 made to his god, he proved a false prophet, for Tamehameha died, and 
 did not come to life again. 
 
 At eight o'clock, a small pig, nicely baked under ground, and a 
 calabash full of potatoes, were brought in for breakfast. We were 
 both too ill to partake of the bounty of our kind host, yet felt 
 grateful for his attention.
 
 108 
 
 MOKUOHAI, SITE OF KAMEHAMEHA'S DECISIVE BATTLE. 
 
 At nine a. m. we were joined by our companions from Kaavaroa, 
 and shortly after set out again on our tour. 
 
 Mr. Bishop went in the canoe, the rest of us walked on towards 
 Honaunau, a considerable village about -five miles distant. 
 
 Leaving Keei, w T e passed on to Mokuohai, a spot celebrated as the 
 place where, in the year 1780 or 1781, the great battle was fought 
 between Kauikeouli, (called also as Kivaraao,) eldest son and suc- 
 cessor of Taraiopu, and his cousin, Tamehameha, by which the latter 
 though before only possessed of two districts, became sovereign of the 
 whole island. 
 
 This battle is considered by most of Tamehameha's friends (who 
 frequently allude to it in talking of him) as the foundation of all his 
 subsequent power and greatness in the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 AN EIGHT-DAY BATTLE. 
 
 During seven successive days, a severe conflict was maintained, 
 with doubtful success. On the morning of the eighth day, it was 
 renewed with augmented fury on both sides, and continued raging 
 until noon, when the death of Kauikeouli terminated the struggle in 
 favour of his rival. 
 
 The circumstances attending his death were singular. 
 
 Keeaumoku, (the father of Kaahumanu, Piia, and Kuakini, present 
 governor Hawaii,) Tamehameha's principal general, with a few of 
 his companions, had advanced a considerable distance beyond the 
 main body of his warriors, and was completely surrounded by Kau- 
 ikeouli 's men. 
 
 After defending themselves for some time against superior numbers, 
 all the associates of Keeaumoku were slain, he himself was danger- 
 ously wounded by a number of stabs with the pahoa, (the pahoa is a 
 dagger, from eighteen inches to two feet long, made of wood or 
 iron,) and fell in the midst of his foes. His enemies thought him 
 mortally wounded, and were proceeding to despoil him of his orna- 
 ments, &c. 
 
 HOW THE BATTLE WAS WON. 
 
 Kauikeouli approached, and called out to them to take care of the 
 paraoa, a finely polished ornament, made of a whale 's tooth, highly 
 valued by the natives, and worn on the breast suspended by a neck- 
 lace of curiously braided human hair, stooping down himself at the 
 same time to untie it. 
 
 Keeaumoku, recovering from a swoon, and seeing Kauikeouli bend- 
 ing over him, made a sudden spring, and grasped him round his neck, 
 or (as some of the natives say) by his long flowing hair, and being a
 
 109 
 
 man of uncommon stature and strength, held him down. Kauikeouli 
 endeavoured, but in vain, to extricate himself from his grasp. 
 
 At this instant, Tamehameha and his attendants, having heard that 
 Keeaumoku had fallen, hastened to the spot, and one of them, Nari- 
 maerua, perceiving the situation of Kauikeouli, rushed forward, and 
 ran a spear through his body; another stabbed him with a pahoa. 
 He fell upon the body of Keeaumoku, and instantly expired. 
 
 Keoua, his uncle, who fought near him, was about the same time 
 wounded in the thigh by a spear, and obliged to quit the field. 
 
 KAMEHAMEHA REMAINED MASTER. 
 
 As soon as the death of Kauikeouli was known, a panic spread 
 through his men, and they quickly fled in every direction. Many 
 jumped into the sea, and swam to some canoes lying off the place, and 
 the rest fled to the mountains or the adjoining puhonua (place of 
 refuge) at Honaunau, about four miles distant. Among these was 
 Karaimoku, then a youth, now principal chief in the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 Looking one day at the drawing I had made of the puhonua, he 
 pointed with his finger to the place by which he entered when fleeing 
 thither for protection. 
 
 Tamehameha now remained master of the field, and before evening 
 reached Honaunau, the former residence of the vanquished chiefs. 
 
 The scene of this sanguinary engagement was a large tract of rugged 
 lava, the whole superficies of which had been broken up by an earth- 
 quake. 
 
 SCENES OF THE CONFLICT. 
 
 Since leaving Keei, we had seen several heaps of stones raised over 
 the bones of the slain, but they now became much more numerous. 
 
 As we passed along, our guide pointed out the place where Tairi, 
 Tamehameha 's war-god, stood, surrounded by the priests, and, a little 
 further on, he shewed us the place where Tamehameha himself, his 
 sisters, and friends, fought during the early part of the eighth day. 
 
 A few minutes after we had left it, we reached a large heap of 
 stones overgrown with moss, which marks the spot where Kauikeouli 
 was slain. 
 
 The numerous piles of stones which we saw in every direction, con- 
 vinced us that the number of those who fell on both sides must have 
 been considerable. 
 
 HAWAII A SCENE OF CONSTANT WARFARE. 
 
 The Sandwich Islands, like many other parts of the world, have 
 frequently felt the cruel scourge of war. Their traditionary history, 
 so far as we have been able to trace it, is distinguished by nothing 
 bo much as accounts of the murderous and plundering expeditions of
 
 110 
 
 one island against another, or the sanguinary battles between the in- 
 habitants of different parts of the same island. 
 
 The whole group have seldom, if ever, been united under one author- 
 ity; but, in general, separate governments, and independent kings or 
 chiefs, have existed in each of the large islands; and sometimes the 
 six great divisions of Hawaii have been under as many distinct rulers 
 or chieftains. 
 
 Their inclinations or interests often interfered, and almost every dis- 
 pute terminated in an appeal to arms. Indeed, a pretext for war was 
 seldom wanting, when one party thought themselves sufficiently pow- 
 erful to invade with success the territories of their neighbours, and 
 plunder their property. 
 
 HAWAIIAN METHOD OF WARFARE. 
 
 Their modes of warfare must, therefore, necessarily exhibit much 
 of their national character; and having in the course of the narrative 
 already had occasion to describe two of their battles, some account 
 of their system of war will probably be acceptable in this place. 
 
 Their armies were composed of individuals from every rank in 
 society. 
 
 There was no distinct class of men trained exclusively to the use 
 of arms, and warriors by profession, yet there have always been men 
 celebrated for their courage and martial achievements; and there are 
 many now living, who distinguished themselves by deeds of valour 
 and strength in the frequent wars which were carried on during the 
 former part of the late Tamehameha's reign; men who left their 
 peaceful home and employment, as agriculturalists or fishermen, to 
 follow his fortunes in the field, and resumed their former pursuits on 
 the cessation of hostilities. 
 
 HAWAIIAN WEAPONS OF WAR. 
 
 Before the introduction of fire-arms and gunpowder, almost all the 
 men were taught to use the various weapons employed in battle, and 
 frequently engaged in martial exercises or warlike games. 
 
 One of the exercises consisted in slinging stones at a mark. They 
 threw stones with great force and precision, and are supposed to 
 have been able to strike a small stick at fifty yards' distance, four 
 times out of five. 
 
 They also practised throwing the javelin, and catching and re- 
 turning those thrown at them, or warding them off so as to avoid 
 receiving any injury. In this latter exercise, they excelled to an 
 astonishing degree. 
 
 "We know some men who have stood and allowed six men to throw 
 their javelins at them, which they would either catch, and return on
 
 Ill 
 
 their assailants, or so dexterously turn aside, that they fell harmless 
 to the ground. 
 
 WRESTLING MATCHES AND SHAM FIGHTS. 
 
 Wrestling was also practised by the more athletic youth, as a prep- 
 aration to the single combats usual in almost every battle. 
 
 Sometimes they had sham fights, when large numbers engaged, and 
 each party advanced and retreated, attacked and defended, and exer- 
 cised all the maneuvres employed in actual engagement. 
 
 Admirably constituted by nature with fine-formed bodies, supple 
 joints, strong and active limbs, accustomed also to a light and cum- 
 berless dress, they took great delight in these gymnastic and warlike 
 exercises, and in the practice of them spent no inconsiderable portion 
 of their time. 
 
 CONSULTING DIVINERS CONCERNING WAR. 
 
 "Whenever war was in contemplation, the poe kiro (diviners and 
 priests) were directed to slay the accustomed victims, and consult the 
 gods. Animals only were used on these occasions, generally hogs and 
 fowls. 
 
 The priests offered their prayers and the diviners sacrificed the vic- 
 tims, observed the manner in which they expired, the appearance of 
 their entrails, and other signs. 
 
 Sometimes, when the animal was slain, they embowelled it, took out 
 the spleen, and, holding it in their hands, offered their prayers. If 
 they did not receive an answer, war was deferred. They also slept in 
 the temple where the gods were kept, and, after the war-god had 
 revealed his will by a vision or dream, or some other supernatural 
 means, they communicated it to the king and warriors, and war was 
 either determined or relinquished accordingly. 
 
 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 
 
 If the expedition in contemplation was of any magnitude or im- 
 portance, or the danger which threatened imminent, human sacrifices 
 were offered, to ensure the co-operation of the war-gods in the destruc- 
 tion of their enemies. 
 
 They do not appear to have imagined these gods exerted any pro- 
 tecting influence over their devotees, but that their presence and their 
 power destroyed the courage and strength of their enemies, and filled 
 their hearts with terror and dismay. 
 
 Sometimes the priests proposed that human victims should be slain; 
 sometimes the gods themselves were said to require them, to promise 
 victory on condition of their being offered, and at other times they 
 were slain after having consulted the gods as their oracle, and not
 
 112 
 
 having received a favourable answer, they were desirous to consult 
 tli I'm again before they abandoned the enterprise. 
 
 METHOD OP OBTAINING HUMAN SACRIFICES AND OF KILLING. 
 
 If any of their enemies had been taken captive, the victims were 
 elected from among their number; if not, individuals who had broken 
 tabu, or rendered themselves obnoxious to the chiefs, were fixed upon. 
 
 A message was sent to the chief under whose authority they were, 
 and at the appointed time he sent his men, who generally despatched 
 them with a stone or club, without any notice, and then carried them 
 away to the temple. 
 
 Sometimes they were bound and taken alive to the heiau, and slain 
 in the outer court, immediately before being placed on the altar. 
 
 It does not appear that they were slain in the idol's presence, or 
 within the temple, but either on the outside or at the place where 
 they were first taken; in both cases they appear to have endeavoured 
 to preserve the body entire, or mangled as little as possible. 
 
 The victims were generally despatched by a blow on the head with, 
 a club or stone; sometimes, however, they were stabbed. 
 
 The number offered at a time varied according to circumstances, 
 two, four, or seven, or ten, or even twenty, we have been informed, 
 have been offered at once. 
 
 When carried into the temple, every article of clothing they might 
 have on was taken off, and they were laid in a row with their faces 
 downwards, on the altar immediately before the idol. 
 
 The priest then, in a kind of prayer, offered them to the gods; and 
 if any offerings of hogs were presented at the same time, they were 
 afterwards piled upon them, lying at right angles across the human 
 bodies, where the whole were left to rot and putrefy together. 
 
 APPROBATION OF GODS PRELIMINARY TO WAR. 
 
 War was seldom declared without the approbation of the gods, ob- 
 tained through the medium of the priests, though it is probable the 
 answer of the diviners was given with due regard to the previously 
 known views of the king and chiefs. 
 
 Sometimes the question of war or peace was deliberated in a 
 public meeting of chiefs and warriors, and these popular assemblies 
 furnished occasion for the most powerful displays of native eloquence 
 which, though never present at one of these councils, we should think, 
 from the specimens we have heard repeated, was, like that of their 
 neighbours of the southern isles, at once bold in sentiment, beautiful 
 in imagery, and powerful in effect.
 
 113 
 
 AN ELOQUENT ADDRESS. 
 
 I never was more deeply affected than by the parting address of a 
 warrior in the South Sea Islands, when he was taking leave of his 
 friends, before going, as he expected, to battle. 
 
 Nothing can surpass their efforts on some of these occasions, when 
 their addresses abound with figures like the following: 
 
 "Our ranks are rocks in the ocean, unmoved by the dashing waves; 
 each warrior moves a sea porcupine, whom none dare handle. 
 
 "Let the king's troops advance, and they shall rise before his 
 enemies as the lofty breadfruit rises before the slender grass. 
 
 "In the combat the warrior shall stand like the deep-rooted palm, 
 and nod over the heads of their enemies, as the tall cocoa-nut nods 
 over the bending reed." 
 
 On urging the attack by night, 
 
 "Our torches' glare shall surprise them like the lightning's flash; 
 and our shouts, in the instantaneous onset, terrify like bursting 
 thunder." 
 
 The effect was greatly heightened by the conciseness of their lan- 
 guage, and the euphony with which it abounds; and probably on one 
 side of the place where they were assembled, the rocks arose, and the 
 waves dashed; while on the other, groves of stately bread-fruit trees 
 appeared, or towering cocoa-nuts, seventy or eighty feet high, waved 
 over their heads. 
 
 METHOD OF PREPARATION FOR WAR. 
 
 When war was declared, the king and warrior chiefs, together with 
 the priests, fixed the time and place for commencing, and the manner 
 of carrying it on. 
 
 In the mean time, the Eunapai (messengers of war) were sent to the 
 districts and villages under their authority, to require the services of 
 their tenants, in numbers proportionate to the magnitude of the ex- 
 pedition. 
 
 These were ordered to come with their weapons, candle nuts for 
 torches, light calabashes for water, dried fish, or other portable pro- 
 visions. 
 
 The summons was in general obeyed with alacrity, and as their 
 spears, clubs, juvelins, and slings, were usually suspended in some 
 convenient part of every house, they armed with these, and soon 
 joined the forces at the appointed rendezvous. 
 
 When the people en masse were required, the Tuahaua was sent, 
 whose office it was to bring every individual capable of bearing arms. 
 
 TREATMENT OF SHIRKERS. 
 
 Sometimes the Uruoki, another officer, was afterwards despatched; 
 and if be found any lingering behind who oufjht to have been with the
 
 114 
 
 army, he cut or slit one of their ears, tied a rope round their body, 
 and in this manner led them to the camp. 
 
 To remain at home when summoned to the field, was considered so 
 disgraceful, the circumstances attending detection so humiliating, and 
 the mark of cowardice, with which it was punished, so indelible, that 
 it was seldom necessary to send round the last-named officer. 
 
 These messengers of war were sometimes called Rere, a word which 
 signifies to fly, probably from the rapidity with which they conveyed 
 the orders of the chiefs. They generally travelled at a running pace,, 
 and, in cases of emergency, are reported to have gone round the island 
 of Hawaii in eight or nine days; a distance which, including the cir- 
 cuitous route they would take to call at different villages, exceeds 
 three hundred miles. 
 
 When the different parties arrived at the place of rendezvous, the 
 chief of the division or district, with some of inferior rank, waited on 
 the king or commanding chief, and reported the number of warriors 
 they had brought. 
 
 AN ENCAMPMENT — CHARACTER OP BATTLE FIELDS. 
 
 They then selected a spot for their encampment, and erected their 
 Hare-pai or Auoro, in which they abode till the army was collected. 
 
 The former were small huts, built with cocoa-nut leaves, or boughs 
 and green ti leaves, which each party or family erected for their own 
 accommodation, around that of their chief; and thus formed a small 
 encampment by themselves. 
 
 The latter was a large open building, constructed with the same 
 materials, in which the chief and his warriors all dwelt together. 
 
 Their camp was near an open space, and they generally selected the 
 most broken and uneven ground, frequently rugged tracts of lava, as 
 their fields of battle. 
 
 Sometimes they encamped on the banks of a river, or deep ravine, 
 which lying between them and their enemies, secured them from sud- 
 den attack. But they do not appear to have thrown up lines or other 
 artificial barriers around their camp; they did not, however, neglect 
 to station piquets at all the passes by which they were likely to be 
 approached. 
 
 FORTS AND REFUGES. 
 
 Each party usually had a pari or pa-kaua, natural or artificial 
 fortress, where they left their wives and children, and to which they 
 fled if vanquished in the field. 
 
 These fortresses were either eminences of difficult ascent, and, by 
 walling up the avenues leading to them, sometimes rendered inaccessi- 
 ble; or they were extensive enclosures, including a cave, or spring, 
 or other natural means of sustenance or security.
 
 115 
 
 The stone walls around the forts were composed of large blocks of 
 lava, laid up solid, but without cement, sometimes eighteen feet high, 
 and nearly twenty feet thick. On the tops of these walls the warriors 
 fought with slings and stones, or with spears and clubs repelled their 
 assailants. 
 
 "When their pari was an eminence, after they had closed the avenues, 
 they collected large stones and fragments of rock on the edges of the 
 precipices overhanging the paths leading to the fortification, which 
 they rolled down on the heads of their enemies. 
 
 NAVAL BATTLES. 
 
 Sometimes they engaged in fleets amounting to upwards of one hun- 
 dred canoes on each side. 
 
 At a distance they fought with slings and stones, and other mis- 
 siles, and, at close quarters, with club and spear. 
 
 Their fleets were not lashed together like those of the Society 
 islanders. 
 
 The Sandwich Islands not being surrounded with coral reefs, there 
 is but little smooth water; and the roughness of the sea, most likely, 
 induced them generally to select terra firma for their theatre of war. 
 
 FIGHTING IN OPEN, BY DAY — ORDER OF BATTLE. 
 
 They do not appear to have practised many stratagems in war, sel- 
 dom laid ambushes, generally sought open warfare, and but rarely 
 attacked in the night. 
 
 Whenever they expected an action, they proceeded to hoonoho ka 
 kaua, (fix the war, or set their army in battle array,) for which they 
 had a regular system, and adopted various methods for attack and 
 defence, according to the nature of the ground, force of the enemy, &c. 
 
 When about to engage in an open plain, their army, drawn up for 
 battle, consisted of a centre and wings, the latter considerably in 
 advance, and the line curved in form of a crescent. 
 
 The slingers, and those who threw the javelin, were in general dis- 
 tributed through the whole line. 
 
 Every chief led his own men to battle, and took his position accord- 
 ing to the orders of the commanding chieftain, whose station was 
 always in the centre. 
 
 The king generally commanded in person, or that authority was 
 exercised by the highest chief among the warriors; occasionally, 
 however, a chief inferior in rank, but distinguished by courage, or 
 military talents and address, has been raised to the supreme com- 
 mand. 
 
 When they fought in a defile, or narrow pass, they advanced in a 
 single column.
 
 116 
 
 The first division, or advanced guard, was called the verau, or point, 
 tho name they also give to a bayonet. The other parts of the column 
 were called by different names; the pohivi, or shoulder, was gen- 
 erally considered the strongest section. The chief who commanded 
 was in the centre. 
 
 DESCRIPTION 'OF WEAPONS. 
 
 Their weapons consisted of the pololu, a spear made of hard wood, 
 from sixteen to twenty feet long, and pointed at one end. The ihe, 
 or javelin, about six feet in length, made of a species of hard red 
 wood, resembling mahogany, called kauira, pointed and barbed. The 
 raau parau, a weapon eight or nine feet long, between a club and 
 spear, somewhat resembling a halbert, with which they were accus- 
 tomed to thrust or strike, and the pahoa, or dagger, eighteen inches 
 or two feet in length, made of the hard wood, sometimes pointed 
 at both ends, and having a string attached to the handle, which 
 passed round the wrist to prevent their losing it in action. 
 
 Besides these, they employed the sling, and their stones were very 
 destructive. The slings were made of human hair, plaited, or the 
 elastic fibres of the cocoa-nut husk ; the stones they employed were, 
 about the size of a hen's egg, generally ponderous pieces of compact 
 lava, from the bed of a stream or the sea-beach, where they had been 
 worn smooth by the action of the water. 
 
 NO SHIELDS— WAR DRESS. 
 
 They had no shields or weapons of defence, except the javelin, which 
 they used in warding off those that might be thrown at them; they 
 were very expert in avoiding a stone, if they saw it thrown, and the 
 spearmen excelled in parrying the thrusts of their enemies' spears. 
 
 The warriors seldom went to battle with any other dress than a 
 maro or narrow girdle round their loins. 
 
 Some, however, wore a quantity of cloth bound round their head, 
 which was called ahupoonui, and the chiefs were frequently dressed 
 in their war-cloaks and helmets. 
 
 HELMETS AND CLOAKS. 
 
 The cloaks, though they gave the wearers an imposing appearance, 
 must have proved an incumbrance, without affording much protection. 
 
 Some of the helmets were made of close wicker-work, exactly fitted 
 the head, and were ornamented along the crown. But those worn by 
 the high chiefs only, and called mahiori, though not more useful, were 
 peculiarly beautiful. They were made in the form of the Grecian 
 helmet, with towering crest, and were thickly covered with the glossy 
 red and yellow feathers of a small paroquet found in the mountains,
 
 117 
 
 (with whose feathers the war-cloaks are also ornamented,) and though 
 they did not appear adapted to defend the head, any more than the 
 cloaks were to guard the body, they increased the effect of the tower- 
 ing height and martial air of the chiefs, whose stature was generally 
 above that of the common people. 
 
 The long cloaks reaching to the knees, or even to the ancles, were 
 worn only by the king and principal chiefs. 
 
 The royal colour was yellow, and no one besides the king was 
 allowed to wear a cloak made entirely of yellow feathers. Those of 
 the other chiefs were of red and yellow rhomboidal figures intermin- 
 gled or disposed in alternate lines, with sometimes a section of dark 
 purple or glossy black. 
 
 Tippets were manufactured of the same materials, and worn by 
 the inferior chiefs, or some of the principal warriors, whose rank did 
 not entitle them to wear the cloak. 
 
 In addition to the helmet and cloak, the high chiefs occasionally 
 wore a paraoa, or other ornament, like a breastplate, suspended from 
 the neck by finely braided strings of human hair. 
 
 PRELIMINARIES AND DETAILS OF BATTLE. 
 
 The diviners were consulted immediately before they engaged; 
 they slew their victims, noticed also the face of the heavens, the 
 passage of clouds over the sun, the appearance of the rainbow; and, 
 if they augured well, the principal war-god was brought out in the 
 front of the whole army, and placed near the king. 
 
 The priest then addressed a prayer to the gods, urged them to exer- 
 cise their power, and prove themselves, in the ensuing engagement, 
 mightier than the gods of their enemies; promising, at the same time, 
 hecatombs of victims in the event of victory. 
 
 The king, or commander-in-chief, now addressed the assembled war- 
 riors; and if they were to attack, gave the signal for the hoouta, or 
 onset, and they rushed to hui, or mix in fight. 
 
 They did not employ any banners or colours, but in their warlike 
 expeditions were attended by their idols. 
 
 FUNCTIONS OF THE BATTLE GODS. 
 
 The national war-god was elevated above the ranks, and carried 
 by the priest near the person of the king, or commander-in-chief. 
 Nor was this the only idol borne to the battle: other chiefs of rank 
 had their war-gods carried near them by their priest; and if the king 
 or chief was killed or taken, the god himself was usually captured 
 also. 
 
 The presence of their deities inspired the warriors with courage, 
 who supposed their influence essential to victory.
 
 118 
 
 A description of Tairi has already been given, and lie may be 
 taken as a sample; the image was four or five feet high, the upper 
 part wicker-work, covered with red feathers, the face a hideous form, 
 the mouth armed with triple rows of dog's or shark's teeth, the eyes 
 of mother of pearl, the head crowned with a helmet, the crest some- 
 times formed of long tresses of human hair. They were fixed on a 
 small pillar or pedestal; were sometimes carried by the priests, or 
 placed on the ground, upheld and defended by them. 
 
 APPEARANCE OF THE PRIEST HEVAIIEVA. 
 
 We have often conversed with Hevaheva, the priest of Tameha- 
 meha's war-god, and though there is nothing naturally repulsive in 
 his countenance, we have been told, that, in the battle, he often dis- 
 torted his face into every frightful form, and uttered most terrific 
 and appalling yells, which were supposed to proceed from the god he 
 bore or attended. 
 
 At times the whole army, except the reserve, engaged at once, but 
 their battles were most commonly a succession of skirmishes, or partial 
 engagements. 
 
 SINGLE COMBAT NOT UNUSUAL. 
 
 The hooparau, single combat, was not unusual. A haughty and 
 boastful warrior would advance beyond the line of his companions, 
 and toho or aa, (insult,) in opprobrious terms the whole army of his 
 enemies. 
 
 A warrior from that army would hasten to meet him, and the 
 encounter was continued till one was disabled or slain. 
 
 We do not know whether, like the Grecian heroes, these combatants 
 addressed each other before engaging in the mortal strife, as did their 
 neighbours in the southern seas. There the challenger, when he beheld 
 his antagonist approaching, would exclaim: 
 
 "Who are you, that come to contend with me? — I am so and so, 
 who slew such a one, whose name is famous to the farthest of these 
 islands; the son of such a one, who achieved such an action: are you 
 come to add to our fame?" &c. &c. 
 
 The other would answer, "I am such a one, the son of so and so, 
 who performed such an action, celebrated in every island." And after 
 much more rhodomontade, one would ask the other: 
 
 "Know you how to lift the spear?" or club; and immediately com- 
 mence the combat. 
 
 We are not certain, but think it probable, that, like the Society 
 Islanders, they had orators, whose duty it was to go through the 
 camp, and through the ranks, on the day of battle, stimulating the 
 men, by reciting, with most violent gesticulations, the warlike deeds
 
 119 
 
 of their ancestors, and the victories their island or district had 
 formerly obtained. 
 
 Their battles were with confused noise, and boastful shouts. 
 
 BRUTAL BATTLE ETHICS. 
 
 The first that either party slew, they called erehua; frequently the 
 victor jumped upon the expiring body, or, spurning it contemptu- 
 ously, dedicated its spirit to his gods. He then cut or tore off the 
 hair from the top of the forehead, and, elevating it in the air, 
 shouted aloud, He oho, a frontlet; and if it was a chief or warrior of 
 note he had slain, his name was added. 
 
 He oho! He oho! was reiterated through the ranks of the victor, 
 while he despoiled the fallen warrior of his ornaments, and then 
 dragged the heana, slain body, to the king, or the priest, who, in a 
 short address, offered the victim to his god. 
 
 The first offering they called urukoko, increasing blood. 
 
 The second slain was called maka-wai, face of water, and the third 
 herua-oni, sand-dug. They were all likewise brought and offered to 
 the gods on the field. 
 
 Their conflicts were sometimes continued for several successive days 
 before either army retreated; and, on some occasions, both parties 
 discontinued the contest as if by mutual consent, from despair of 
 victory, or an evil omen revealed by the diviners. Such a battle 
 was called rukurua, both beaten. This, however, was a rare occur- 
 rence; they generally fought till one of the armies was vanquished 
 and fled. 
 
 NO MERCY TO VANQUISHED. 
 
 When routed in the field, some fled to the pahu tapu, sacred en- 
 closure, called also puhonua, or place of refuge; others repaired to 
 their pari or fortress; and when these were distant, or the way to 
 them intercepted, they all fled to the mountains, whither they were 
 pursued by the victors for weeks, and even months, afterwards. 
 
 When discovered, they were cruelly massacred on the spot, or 
 brought down to the king and chiefs. 
 
 When led to the king's presence, they usually prostrated them- 
 selves before him, and exclaimed, "E make paha, e ora paha, — i 
 runa te aro? i raro te aro?" To die perhaps, to live perhaps, — 
 upwards the face? or downwards the face? 
 
 If the king did not speak, or said "The face down," it was sentence 
 of death, and some one in attendance either despatched the poor cap- 
 tive in his presence, or led him away to be slaughtered. But if the 
 king said, "Upward the face," they were spared, though perhaps 
 spared only to bo slaves, or to be sacrificed when the priests should 
 require human victims.
 
 120 
 
 CAPTIVES PROPERTY OP VICTORS. 
 
 The persons of the captives were the property of the victors, and 
 their lives entirely at their disposal. 
 
 A chief taken in the field, or during the retreat, was sometimes 
 spared, and allowed to return to his home. 
 
 The victors usually buried their dead; but the bodies of the slain, 
 belonging to the vanquished, were generally left unburied on the 
 field, and were devoured by hogs and dogs, or suffered to rot. Small 
 heaps of stones were afterwards piled over their bones, or on the 
 spot where they had fallen, probably as trophies of victory. 
 
 APPEALS FOR MERCY. 
 
 When the king or any chief of high rank was known to be humane, 
 or any of the vanquished had formerly been on terms of friendship 
 with him, avoiding carefully the warriors, an individual, risking his 
 life on the conqueror's clemency, would lie in wait for him in his 
 walks, and prostrating himself in his path, supplicate his compas- 
 sion, or rush into his house, and throw himself on the ground before 
 him. 
 
 Though any one might have killed him, while on his way thither, 
 none dare touch him within the king's enclosure, without his orders. 
 
 When the king did not speak, or directed the fugitive to be car- 
 ried from his presence, which was very unusual, he was taken out 
 and slain. 
 
 Generally the prince spoke to the individual who had thus thrown 
 himself into his power; and if he did but speak, or only recognize 
 him, he was secure. He might either join the retinue of the sov- 
 ereign, or return to his own house. No one would molest him, as he 
 was under maru, shade, or screening protection of the king. 
 
 These individuals, influenced by feelings of gratitude, generally 
 attached themselves to the persons or interest of the prince by whom 
 they had been saved, and frequently proved, through subsequent life, 
 the most faithful attendants on his person, and steady adhei-ents to 
 his cause. 
 
 REAPPORTIONMENT OP LANDS AFTER WAR. 
 
 When the vanquished were completely routed, or nearly cut off, 
 their country was hoopahora, portioned out, by the conqueror, among 
 the chiefs and warriors who had been his companions in the war, by 
 whom it was settled. 
 
 The wives and children of those whom they had defeated were fre- 
 quently made slaves, and attached to the soil for its cultivation, and, 
 together with the captives, treated with great cruelty. But when 
 there had been a great loss on both sides, or one party wished for
 
 121 
 
 peace, an ambassador with a young plantain tree, and a green branch 
 of the ti plant, was sent with proposals for peace. If they were 
 accepted, the preliminaries were arranged, and the chiefs and priests 
 of both parties met to adjust the particulars. 
 
 METHOD OF SETTLEMENT OP PEACE TERMS. 
 
 When the conditions of peace were agreed to, they all repaired to 
 the temple. There a pig was slain, its blood caught in a vessel, and 
 afterwards poured on the ground, probably to signify that thus it 
 should be done to those who broke the treaty. A wreath of mairi, 
 a sweet-scented plant, was then woven by the leading chiefs of both 
 parties, and deposited in the temple. Peace was ratified, feasting, 
 dances, and public games followed. The warriors returned to their 
 lands, and the king's heralds were sent round his districts to an- 
 nounce ua pau ka kaua, ended is the war. 
 
 The introduction of fire-arms, which so soon followed the discovery 
 of the Sandwich Islands, increased the passion for conquest and 
 plunder in the minds of the proud and turbulent chiefs by whom 
 they were governed; and although the recent introduction and par- 
 tial reception of Christianity has not induced them to discontinue the 
 practice of war, it has already altered its ferocious and exterminat- 
 ing character, and the principles of clemency inculcated in the gospel 
 have been most strikingly exemplified in the humane conduct of the 
 chiefs by whom it has been embraced. After a late civil war in 
 Tauai, when the captives were brought before Karaimoku, the chief 
 against whom they had rebelled, he dismissed many of them with 
 spelling books, and directed them to go home, and dwell in peace, 
 cultivate their lands, learn to read and write, and worship the true 
 God. 
 
 EFFECT OF CHRISTIANITY ON NATIVES. 
 
 There is every reason to hope that Christianity, when more gen- 
 erally received, will subdue their restless and ambitious spirits; and 
 under its influence they may be expected, like the southern islanders, 
 to delight in the occupations of peace, and cease to learn the art, or 
 find satisfaction in the practice, of war. Many most decisive and 
 pleasing illustrations of the peaceful tendency of the principles of 
 the Bible, have been given by the Southern Islanders. 
 
 One of these occurred under my own observation. In the year 
 1817 I visited the island of Tubuai, about 300 miles south of Tahiti. 
 While there, two or three natives of the Paumotu or Faliser's Islands, 
 which lie to the eastward of the Society Islands, came on board our 
 vessel, and asked the captain for a passage to Tahiti. He inquired 
 their business there? They said, that some weeks before, they left
 
 122 
 
 Tahiti, whither they had been on a visit, to return to their native 
 islands, but that contrary winds drifted their canoe out of its course, 
 and they reached the island of Tubuai; that shortly after their arrival, 
 the natives of the island attacked them, plundered them of their 
 property, and broke their canoe; that they wished to go to Tahiti, 
 and acquaint Pomare with their misfortune, procure another canoe, 
 and prosecute their original voyage. 
 
 Two Europeans, who were on the island at the time, told me they 
 were very peaceable in their behaviour; that the natives of Tubuai 
 had attacked the strangers because they had tried to persuade them to 
 cast away their idols, and had told them there was but one true God, 
 viz. Jehovah. 
 
 Our captain, and some others who were present, asked why they did 
 not resist the attack? inquiring, at the same time, if they were 
 averse to war; knowing that their countrymen were continually en- 
 gaged in most savage wars, and were also cannibals. 
 
 WHY THEY DID NOT FIGHT BACK. 
 
 They said they had been taught to delight in war, and were not 
 afraid of the natives of Tubuai; that if they had been heathens, they 
 should have fought them at once; but that they had been to Tahiti, 
 and had embraced the new religion, as they called Christianity; had 
 heard that Jehovah commanded those who worshipped Him to do 
 no murder, and that Jesus Christ had directed his followers to love 
 their enemies; that they feared it would be displeasing to God, should 
 they have killed any of the Tubuaians, or even have indulged feel- 
 ings of revenge towards them; adding, that they would rather lose 
 their canoe and their property, than offend Jehovah, or disregard the 
 directions of Jesus Christ. 
 
 Our captain gave them a passage. Pomare furnished them with a 
 canoe; they returned for their companions, and subsequently sailed to 
 their native islands. 
 
 When they arrived, they and other natives of the same islands, 
 who had also been to Tahiti, told their countrymen what they had 
 learned there, and the changes they had witnessed; that Jehovah was 
 the only God recognized at Tahiti, and that all was peace and good 
 will. 
 
 God was pleased to accompany their plain narrative with such 
 power to the hearts of their countrymen, that they abolished idolatry, 
 erected places for the public worship of Jehovah, opened school- 
 houses, became professedly Christian people; and the cruelties of 
 their idolatry, cannibalism, and war, have ever since ceased among 
 them.
 
 123 
 
 These natives, in all probability, had never heard the question as to 
 the lawfulness or unlawfulness of Christians engaging in war dis- 
 cussed or even named, but they had most likely been taught to 
 commit to memory the decalogue, and our Lord's sermon on the 
 mount, and hence resulted their noble forbearance at the island of 
 Tubuai. 
 
 IN AND ABOUT HONAUNAU. 
 
 Ever since Saturday last, I had suffered violent pain, probably in- 
 duced by the bad water we had been obliged to drink since leaving 
 Kairua; and shortly after passing over the battle ground, I found 
 myself too ill to walk any further. I reclined about an hour on the 
 rocks of lava, under the shade of a small shrub, and then travelled 
 on slowly to Honaunau, which I reached about noon. 
 
 The town contains 147 houses, yet we could procure no better accom- 
 modation than what an open house for building canoes afforded. 
 Here my companions spread a mat on the ground, and I laid down, 
 grateful for the comfort the canoe shed afforded, as it screened me 
 from the scorching rays of an almost vertical sun. 
 
 Towards the evening Mr. Thurston preached to the people of the 
 place, who gave good attention. 
 
 I found myself much better the next morning, but too ill to 
 resume the journey that day. 
 
 A WELL CULTIVATED SECTION. 
 
 After breakfast, Messrs. Thurston and Goodrich examined the in- 
 land part of the district, and found, after proceeding about two miles 
 from the sea, that the ground was generally cultivated. 
 
 They passed through considerable groves of bread-fruit trees, saw 
 many cocoa-nuts, and numbers of the prickly pear (cactus ficus indi- 
 cus,) growing very large, and loaded with fruit. They also found 
 many people residing at the distance of from two to four miles from 
 the beach, in the midst of their plantations, who seemed to enjoy an 
 abundance of provisions, seldom possessed by those on the sea shore. 
 They returned about noon. 
 
 Finding ourselves in want of cooking utensils, and a little tea and 
 Bugar, which, in order to lighten our baggage, we had left at Kairua, 
 and perceiving our stock of medicines nearly expended, it was thought 
 best that one of our number should return for them. Mr. Thurston 
 accordingly left Honaunau in the canoe at 2 p. m. and reached Kairua 
 about sunset. He returned about three the next morning, with most 
 of the articles we needed. 
 
 The night of the 22d was a restless one with us all, on account of 
 the swarms of vermin that infested our lodging. We should have
 
 124 
 
 been glad to have changed our quarters, but I was not yet well 
 enough to proceed. 
 
 Another day's detention afforded us time for the more minute ex- 
 amination of whatever was interesting in the neighbourhood, and the 
 more ample development of the object of our visit to the unen- 
 lightened people of the village; and those were the occupations of 
 the day. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF HALE O KEAWE. 
 
 Honaunau, we found, was formerly a place of considerable impor- 
 tance, having been the frequent residence of the kings of Hawaii for 
 several successive generations. 
 
 The monuments and relics of the ancient idolatry with which this 
 place abounds, w r ere, from some cause unknown to us, spared amidst 
 the general destruction of the idols, &e. that followed the abolition 
 of the aitabu, in the summer of 1819. 
 
 The principal object that attracted our attention, was the Hare o 
 Keave, (the House of Keave,) a sacred depository of the bones of 
 departed kings and princes, probably erected for the reception of the 
 bones of the king whose name it bears, and who reigned in Hawaii 
 about eight generations back. 
 
 It is a compact building, twenty-four feet by sixteen, constructed 
 with the most durable timber, and thatched with ti leaves, standing on 
 a bed of lava that runs out a considerable distance into the sea. 
 
 It is surrounded by a strong fence of paling, leaving an area in 
 the front, and at each end about twenty-four feet wide. The pave- 
 ment is of smooth fragments of lava, laid down with considerable 
 skill. 
 
 MANY IDOLS STILL IN PLACE. 
 
 Several rudely carved male and female images of wood were placed 
 on the outside of the enclosure; some on low pedestals under the 
 shade of an adjacent tree, others on high posts on the jutting rocks 
 that hung over the edge of the water. 
 
 A number stood on the fence at unequal distances all around ; but 
 the principal assemblage of these frightful representatives of their 
 former deities was at the south-east end of the enclosed space, where, 
 forming a semicircle, twelve of them stood in grim array, as if per- 
 petual guardians of "the mighty dead" reposing in the house ad- 
 joining. 
 
 A pile of stones was neatly laid up in the form of a crescent, about 
 three feet wide, and two feet higher than the pavement, and in this 
 pile the images were fixed. They stood on small pedestals, three or 
 four feet high, though some were placed on pillars, eight or ten feet 
 in height, and curiously carved.
 
 <o <o
 
 126 
 IDOLS APPEARED NEGLECTED. 
 
 The principal idol stood in the centre, the others on either hand; 
 the most powerful being placed nearest to him: he was not so large 
 as some of the others, but distinguished by the variety and superior 
 carvings of his body, and especially of his head. 
 
 Once they had evidently been clothed, but now they appeared in 
 the most indigent nakedness. A few tattered shreds round the neck 
 of one that stood on the left hand side of the door, rotted by the 
 rain and bleached by the sun, were all that remained of numerous 
 and gaudy garments, with which their votaries had formerly arrayed 
 them. 
 
 A large pile of broken calabashes and cocoa-nut shells lay in the 
 centre, and a considerable heap of dried, and partly rotten, wreaths 
 of flowers, branches of shrubs and bushes, and fragments of tapa, (the 
 accumulated offerings of former days,) formed an unsightly mound 
 immediately before each of the images. 
 
 The horrid stare of these idols, the tattered garments upon some of 
 them, and the heaps of rotting offerings before them, seemed to us 
 no improper emblems of the system they were designed to support; 
 distinguished alike by its cruelty, folly, and wretchedness. 
 
 CONDITIONS INSIDE THE HOUSE. 
 
 We endeavoured to gain admission to the inside of the house, but 
 were told it was tabu roa, (strictly prohibited,) and that nothing but 
 a direct order from the king, or Karaimoku, could open the door. 
 
 However, by pushing one of the boards across the door-way a little 
 on one side, we looked in, and saw many large images, some of wood 
 very much carved, others of red feathers, with distended mouths, 
 large rows of sharks' teeth, and pearl-shell eyes. 
 
 We also saw several bundles, apparently of human bones, cleaned, 
 carefully tied up with cinet made of cocoa-nut fibres, and placed in 
 different parts of the house, together with some rich shawls and other 
 valuable articles, probably worn by those to whom the bones belonged, 
 as the wearing apparel and other personal property of the chiefs is 
 generally buried with them. 
 
 When we had gratified our curiosity, and I had taken a drawing of 
 the building, and some of its appendages, we proceeded to examine 
 other remarkable objects of the place. 
 
 CITY OP REFUGE AT HONAUNAU. 
 
 Adjoining the Hare o Keave to the southward, we found a Pahu 
 tabu (sacred enclosure) of considerable extent, and were informed by 
 our guide that it was one of the pohonuas of Hawaii, of which we
 
 127 
 
 had so often heard the chiefs and others speak. There are only two 
 on the island; the one which we were then examining, and another 
 at Waipio, on the north-east part of the island, in the district of 
 Kohala. 
 
 These Puhonuas were the Hawaiian cities of refuge, and afforded 
 an inviolable sanctuary to the guilty fugitive, who, when flying from 
 the avenging spear, was so favoured as to enter their precincts. 
 
 This had several wide entrances, some on the side next the sea, 
 the others facing the mountains. Hither the manslayer, the man who 
 had broken a tabu, or failed in the observance of its rigid require- 
 ments, the thief, and even the murderer, fled from his incensed pur- 
 suers, and was secure. 
 
 To whomsoever he belonged, and from whatever part he came, he 
 was equally certain of admittance, though liable to be pursued even 
 to the gates of the enclosure. 
 
 Happily for him, those gates were perpetually open; and as soon 
 as the fugitive had entered, he repaired to the presence of the idol, 
 and made a short ejaculatory address, expressive of his obligations to 
 him in reaching the place with security. 
 
 PROTECTION OF DEFEATED IN "WAR. 
 
 Whenever war was proclaimed, and during the period of actual 
 hostilities, a white flag was unfurled on the top of a tall spear, at 
 each end of the enclosure, and, until the conclusion of peace, waved 
 the symbol of hope to those who, vanquished in fight, might flee 
 thither for protection. It was fixed a short distance from the walls 
 on the outside, and to the spot on which this banner was unfurled, 
 the victorious warrior might chase his routed foes; but here, he must 
 himself fall back; beyond it he must not advance one step, on pain 
 of forfeiting his life. 
 
 The priests, and their adherents, would immediately put to death 
 any one who should have the temerity to follow or molest those who 
 were once within the pale of the palm tabu; and, as they expressed it, 
 under the shade or protection of the spirit of Keave, the tutelar 
 deity of the place. 
 
 In one part of the enclosure, houses were formerly erected for the 
 priests, and others for the refugees, who, after a certain period, or at 
 the cessation of war, were dismissed by the priests, and returned 
 unmolested to their dwellings and families; no one venturing to injure 
 those, who, when they fled to the gods, had been by them protected. 
 
 We could not learn the length of time it was necessary for them 
 to remain in the puhonua; but it did not appear to be more than 
 two or three days. After that, they either attached themselves to 
 the service of the priests, or returned to their homes.
 
 128 
 
 The puhonua at Honaunau is capacious, capable of containing a 
 vast multitude of people. In time of war, the females, children, and 
 old people of the neighbouring districts, were generally left within it, 
 while the men went to battle. Here they awaited in safety the issue 
 of the conflict, and were secure against surprise and destruction, in 
 the event of a defeat. 
 
 The form of it was an irregular parallelogram, walled up on one 
 side and at both ends, the other being formed by the sea-beach, ex- 
 cept on the north-west end, where there was a low fence. On meas- 
 uring it, we found it to be 715 feet in length, and 404 feet wide. 
 The walls wort' twelve feet high and fifteen thick. 
 
 Holes were still visible in the top of the wall, where large images 
 had formerly stood, about four rods apart throughout its whole ex- 
 tent. 
 
 Within this enclosure were three large heiaus, two of which were 
 considerably demolished, while the other was nearly entire. It was a 
 compact pile of stones, laid up in a solid mass, 126 feet by 65, and 
 ten feet high. 
 
 Many fragments of rock, or pieces of lava, of two or more tons 
 each, were seen in several parts of the wall, raised at least six feet 
 from the ground. 
 
 The erection of such a place as the puhonua at Honaunau, under 
 the circumstances and with the means by which alone it was reared, 
 (as they had no machinery,) must have been an herculean task, and 
 could not have been completed but by the labour of many hands. 
 
 ORIGIN OP CITY OF REFUGE. 
 
 We could not learn how long it had been standing, but were in- 
 formed it was built for Keave, who reigned in Hawaii about 250 
 years ago. The walls and heiaus, indeed, looked as if it might claim 
 such antiquity; but the house of Keave and the images must have 
 been renewed since that time. 
 
 We had often passed over the ruins of deserted heathen temples, 
 and the vestiges of demolished altars, in the Sandwich Islands, and 
 I had frequently visited those in other groups of the Pacific; but the 
 feelings excited on these occasions had always been those of deep 
 melancholy and horror, at the human immolations and shocking cruel- 
 ties which they had so often exhibited. Here, however, idolatry ap- 
 peared at least in the form of clemency, and the sacred enclosure 
 presented a scene unique among the ruins of paganism, which we 
 contemplated with unusual interest. 
 
 Whether its establishment was originally projected by the priests, 
 to attach to their interests all who might owe their lives to its institu- 
 tion, or by some mild and humane prince, anxious to diminish th«
 
 129 
 
 barbarous cruelties of idolatry, and soften the sanguinary character 
 of savage warfare; or whether derived traditionally from the Israel- 
 itish cities of refuge, to which some of its features are strikingly 
 analogous, — we do not pretend to determine. 
 
 However, we could not but rejoice that its abolition was so soon 
 succeeded by the revelation of a refuge more secure, — that the white 
 flag ceased not to wave till another banner was ready to be unfurled, 
 on which was inscribed, "Look unto me, and be ye saved, all the ends 
 of the earth." — Unto Jesus may they look, and may his name to 
 them become the hope of glory. 
 
 Sweet hope, it makes the coward brave, 
 It makes a freeman of the slave, 
 
 And bids the sluggard rise: 
 It lifts the worm of earth on high, 
 Provides him wings, and makes him fly 
 
 To mansions in the skies. 
 
 DISCOMFORTS AT HONAUNAU AND KEOKEA. 
 
 Our accommodations at Honaunau were very indifferent. The 
 house where we stayed, in addition to other unpleasant circumstances, 
 being entirely open at one end, exposed us by night as well as by day 
 to the unwelcome intrusion of hogs and dogs of every description. 
 
 As I was able to walk out on the 23d, we resolved to change our 
 lodgings that evening; and about five o'clock in the afternoon we re- 
 moved nearly half a mile, to a place called Keokea, where we put up 
 in the best house we saw, in hopes of procuring at least a comfortable 
 night 's rest. In this, however, we were disappointed, for it rained 
 heavily the greater part of the night, and the roof of the house not 
 being water-proof, we were more than once obliged to shift our mats 
 to different parts of the earthen floor. 
 
 SWEET POTATO LIQUOR. 
 
 This was not all; our host, and Makoa our guide, with almost a 
 house full of natives besides, had been regaling themselves with an 
 immense wooden bowl of fermented juice of the sweet potato, and 
 were very noisy till midnight, when they lay down on their mats, 
 but to our great annoyance continued either talking or singing until 
 it was almost day. We frequently spoke to them, and asked them to 
 be still. They answered, "Yes, yes, we will;" but in a few minutes 
 were as boisterous as ever. We were not aware of the intoxicating 
 nature of the simple juice of sweet potatoes when fermented, till we 
 saw its effects on the party here. 
 
 But notwithstanding we were uncomfortable during our short stay 
 at Honaunau, and the people less kind than we usually found them, it 
 
 9
 
 130 
 
 appeared to us a most eligible place for a missionary station, where 
 one or two devoted men might labour with a prospect of extensive 
 usefulness. 
 
 The inhabitants, objects of the first attention with a missionary, 
 are numerous, both in the town and neighbourhood. 
 
 ADVANTAGES OP HONAUNAU AS A MISSION STATION. 
 
 The coast, for twenty miles to the northward, includes not less per- 
 haps than forty villages, either on the shore or a short distance inland, 
 and contains probably a population of 20,000 souls, among whom a 
 missionary might labour with facility. 
 
 Though there is at present no chief of distinction residing here, as 
 at Kairua, or Kearake'kua, yet the very circumstance of establishing 
 a station here might lead one to remove hither; and the conduct of 
 the people, we have no doubt, would alter materially as they became 
 better acquainted with the missionaries, and their object in settling 
 permanently among them. It is near Kearake'kua bay, the frequent 
 resort of shipping, where supplies might be left; and the natives also 
 told us, that fresh water in considerable quantities might be procured 
 at a short distance. We had not an opportunity to examine the place 
 where they said it was found; but should this prove a fact, Honaunau 
 would possess an accommodation seldom met with on this side of the 
 island. 
 
 Being sufficiently recovered to proceed on the journey, we left Keo- 
 kea about eight o 'clock on the morning of the 24th. 
 
 A VOLCANIC CURIOSITY. 
 
 After travelling half a mile, a singular appearance of the lava, at 
 a small distance from the shore, attracted our attention, and, on ex- 
 amination, presented a curious phenomenon. It consisted of a covered 
 avenue of considerable extent, from fifty to sixty feet in height, 
 formed by the flowing of the lava, in some recent eruption, over the 
 edge of a perpendicular pile of ancient volcanic rocks, from sixty to 
 seventy feet high. 
 
 It appeared as if, at first, it had flowed over in one vast sheet, 
 but had afterwards fallen more slowly, and in detached semifluid 
 masses. These, cooling as they fell, had hardened and formed a pile, 
 which, by continued augmentation from above, had ultimately reached 
 the top, and united with the liquid lava there. It was evident that 
 the lava had still continued to flow, along the outside of the - arch 
 thus formed, into the plain below, as we observed, in several places, 
 the courses of unbroken streams, from the top of the cliff to the bed 
 of smooth lava, that covered the beach for several miles. 
 
 The space at the bottom between the ancient rocks and more re-
 
 131 
 
 cently formed lava, was from six to twelve feet. On one side the lava 
 rose, perpendicular and smooth, shewing distinctly the different and 
 variously coloured masses of ancient lava of which it was composed; 
 some of a bright scarlet, others brown and purple. 
 
 The whole pile appeared to have undergone since its formation the 
 effects of violent heat. The cracks and hollows, horizontally be- 
 tween the different strata, or obliquely through them, were filled with 
 lava of a florid red colour, and much less porous than the general 
 mass. This last kind of lava must have been brought to a state of 
 most perfect liquefaction, as it had filled up every crevice that was 
 more than half an inch wide. 
 
 A MARVELOUS SIGHT. 
 
 It appeared highly glazed, and in some places we could discover 
 small round pebbles, from the size of a hazel-nut to that of a hen's 
 egg, of the same colour, and having the same vitreous covering, yet 
 seeming to have remained solid, while the liquid lava, with which 
 they were mixed, had been forced by subterranean fire into all the fis- 
 sures of the ancient rock. 
 
 The pile on the other side, formed by the dripping of the liquid 
 lava from the upper edge of the rocks, presented a striking contrast, 
 but not a less interesting sight. It was generally of a dark purple 
 or jet black colour, glittering in the rays of the sun, as if glazed over 
 with a beautiful vitreous varnish. 
 
 On breaking off any fragments, we found them very porous, and 
 considerably lighter than the ancient lava on the other side. Its 
 varied forms baffled description, and were equal to the conceptions of 
 the most fertile imagination. 
 
 The archway thus formed continued for about half a mile, occasion- 
 ally interrupted by an opening in the pile of recent lava, caused by 
 some projecting rock, or elevation in the precipice above. A spectacle 
 awfully sublime and terrific must have been presented, when this 
 burning stream rolled in one wide sheet, a fiery cascade, from the 
 lofty steep down upon the smoking plain. 
 
 With what consternation and horror must it have filled the 
 affrighted inhabitants of the surrounding villages, as they beheld its 
 irresistible and devastating course, impressed as they were with the 
 belief, that Pele, the goddess whom they had offended, had left her 
 lightning, earthquake, and liquid fire, the instruments of her power 
 abode in the volcano, and was in person visiting them with thunder, 
 and vengeance. 
 
 As we passed along this vaulted avenue, called by the natives 
 Keanaee, we beheld a number of caverns and tunnels, from some of
 
 132 
 
 which streams of lava had flowed. The mouths of others being walled 
 up with stones, we supposed were used as sepulchres. 
 
 Mats, spread upon the slabs of lava, calabashes, &c. indicated 
 some of them to be the habitations of men; others, near the openings, 
 were used as workshops, where women were weaving mats, or beating 
 cloth. Some, we also saw, used as storehouses, or depositories of san- 
 dal wood. 
 
 In many places the water filtered through the lava, and, around 
 the spots where it had dropped on the ground, we observed a quan- 
 tity of fine white spear-shaped crystals of a sharp nitrous taste. 
 
 Having walked a considerable distance along the covered way, 
 and collected as many specimens of the lava as we could conveniently 
 carry, we returned to the sea-shore. Mr. Harwood being indisposed, 
 and unable to travel, and being myself but weak, we proceeded in 
 the canoe to Kalahiti, where we landed about 2 p. m. and waited 
 the arrival of our companions. The rest of the party travelled along 
 the shore, by a path often tedious and difficult. 
 
 FURTHER REMARKABLE VOLCANIC FORMATIONS. 
 
 The lava frequently presented a mural front, from sixty to a hun- 
 dred feet high, in many places hanging over their heads, apparently 
 every moment ready to fall; while beneath them the long rolling 
 billows of the Pacific chafed and foamed among the huge fragments 
 of volcanic rocks, along which their road lay. 
 
 In many places the lava had flowed in vast torrents over the top 
 of the precipice into the sea. Broad flakes of it, or masses like stalac- 
 tites, hung from the projecting edge in every direction. The atten- 
 tion was also attracted by a number of apertures in the face of the 
 rocks, at different distances from their base, looking like so many 
 glazed tunnels, from which streams of lava had gushed out and fallen 
 into the ocean below, probably at the same time that it had rolled 
 down in a horrid cataract from the lofty rocks above. 
 
 They passed through two villages, containing between three and 
 four hundred inhabitants, and reached Kalahiti about four in the 
 afternoon. Here the people were collected for public worship, and 
 Mr. Thurston preached to them from John vi. 38. They gave good 
 attention, and appeared interested in what they heard. 
 
 The evening was spent in conversation on religious subjects, with 
 those who crowded our lodgings. 
 
 CUSTOMS UPON DEATH OF A CHIEF. 
 
 At this place we observed many of the people with their hair 
 either cut or shaved close on both sides of their heads, while it was 
 left very long in the middle from the forehead to the back of the
 
 133 
 
 neck. When we inquired the reason of this, they informed us, that, 
 according to the custom of their country, they had cut their hair, in 
 the manner we perceived, on account of their chief who had been 
 sick, and who they had heard was dead. 
 
 The Sandwich islanders observe a number of singular ceremonies 
 on the death of their kings and chiefs, and have been till very 
 recently, accustomed to make these events occasions for the practice 
 of almost every enormity and vice. The custom we noticed at this 
 place is the most general. The people here had followed only one 
 fashion in cutting their hair, but we have seen it polled in every 
 imaginable form; sometimes a small round place only is made bald 
 just on the crown, which causes them to look like Roman priests; at 
 other times the whole head is shaved or cropped close, except round 
 the edge, where, for about half an inch in breadth, the hair hangs 
 down its usual length. 
 
 Some make their heads bald on one side, and leave the hair twelve 
 or eighteen inches long on the other. Occasionally they cut out a 
 patch, in the shape of a horse-shoe, either behind, or above the fore- 
 head; and sometimes we have seen a number of curved furrows cut 
 from ear to ear, or from the forehead to the neck. When a chief who 
 had lost a relative or friend had his own hair cut after any particular 
 pattern, his followers and dependants usually imitated it in cutting 
 theirs. 
 
 Not to cut or shave off the hair, indicates want of respect towards 
 the deceased and the surviving friends, but to have it cut close in 
 any form is enough. Each one usually follows his own taste, which 
 produces the endless variety in which this ornamental appendage of 
 the head is worn by the natives during a season of mourning. 
 
 KNOCKING OUT FRONT TEETH. 
 
 Another custom, almost as universal on these occasions, was that 
 of knocking out some of the front teeth, practised by both sexes, 
 though perhaps most extensively by the men. 
 
 When a chief died, those most anxious to shew their respect for 
 him or his family would be the first to knock out with a stone one 
 of their front teeth. 
 
 The chiefs related to the deceased, or on terms of friendship with 
 him, were expected thus to exhibit their attachment; and when they 
 had done so, their attendants and tenants felt themselves, by the in- . 
 fluence of custom, obliged to follow thoir example. Sometimes a man 
 broke out his own tooth with a stone; more frequently, however, it 
 was done by another, who fixed one end of a piece of stick or hard 
 wood against the tooth, and struck the other end with a stone, till 
 it was broken off.
 
 134 
 
 When any of the men deferred this operation, the women often 
 performed it for them while they were asleep. 
 
 More than one tooth was seldom destroyed at one time; but the 
 mutilation being repeated on the decease of every chief of rank or 
 authority, there are few men to be seerr, who had arrived at maturity 
 before the introduction of Christianity to the islands, with an entire 
 set of teeth; and many by this custom have lost the front teeth on 
 both the upper and lower jaw, which, aside from other inconveniences, 
 causes a great defect in their speech. 
 
 Some, however, have dared to be singular; and though they must 
 have seen many deaths, have parted with but few of their teeth. 
 Among this number is Karaimoku, a chief next in authority to the 
 king, not more than one of whose teeth are deficient. 
 
 Cutting one or both ears was formerly practised on these occasions; 
 but as we never saw more than one or two old men thus disfigured, 
 the custom appears to have been discontinued. 
 
 Another badge of mourning, assumed principally by the chiefs, is 
 that of tatauing a black spot or line on the tongue, in the same 
 manner as other parts of their bodies are tataued. 
 
 A SATURNALIA OF WICKEDNESS AND CRUELTY. 
 
 All these usages, though singular, are innocent, compared with 
 others, which, until very recently, were practised on every similar 
 event. 
 
 As soon as the chief had expired, the whole neighbourhood exhibited 
 a scene of confusion, wickedness, and cruelty, seldom witnessed even 
 in the most barbarous society. 
 
 The people ran to and fro without their clothes, appearing and 
 acting more like demons than human beings; every vice was prac- 
 tised, and almost every species of crime perpetrated. 
 
 Houses were burnt, property plundered, even murder sometimes 
 committed, and the gratification of every base and savage feeling 
 sought without restraint. 
 
 Injuries or accidents, long forgotten perhaps by the offending party, 
 were now revenged with unrelenting cruelty. Hence many of the 
 people of Maui, dreading their recurrence, when Keopuolani was 
 thought to be near her end, took their effects into the enclosure be- 
 longing to the missionaries there, and requested permission to re- 
 main there, hoping to find a sanctuary within their premises amidst 
 the general devastation which they expected would follow her decease. 
 
 MOURNING CUSTOMS IN SOUTH PACIFIC. 
 
 The inhabitants of several groups in the Pacific have mourning cere- 
 monies somewhat resembling these.
 
 135 
 
 The Friendly islanders cut off a joint of one of their fingers at 
 the death of a chief, and, like the Society islanders, cut their tem- 
 ples, face, and bosoms, with shark's teeth. 
 
 The latter also, during their oto haa, or mourning, commit almost 
 as many depredations as the Sandwich islanders. They have, how- 
 ever, one very delicate method of preserving the recollection of the 
 dead, which the latter do not appear to employ; that is, of having a 
 small portion of the hair of the deceased passed through a perfora- 
 tion in one of their ears, ingeniously braided in the form of an ear- 
 ring, and worn sometimes for life. 
 
 But the Sandwich islanders have another custom, almost peculiar 
 to themselves, viz. singing at the death of their chiefs, something in 
 the manner of the ancient Peruvians. I have been peculiarly affected 
 more than once on witnessing this ceremony. 
 
 A MOURNING SONG. 
 
 A day or two after the decease of Keeaumo'ku, governor of Maui, 
 and the elder brother of Kuakini, governor of Hawaii, I was sitting 
 with the surviving relatives, who were weeping around the couch on 
 which the corpse was lying, when a middle-aged woman came in at 
 the other end of the large house, and having proceeded about half 
 way towards the spot where the body lay, began to sing, in a plaintive 
 tone, accompanying her song with affecting gesticulations, such as 
 wringing her hands, grasping her hair, and beating her breasts. I 
 wrote down her monody as she repeated it. 
 
 She described in a feeling manner the benevolence of the deceased, 
 and her own consequent loss. One passage was as follows: 
 
 Ue, ue. ua mate tuu Arii, 
 
 Ua mate tuu hatu e tuu hoa, 
 
 Tuu hoa i ta wa o ta wi, 
 
 Tuu hoa i paa ta aina, 
 
 Tuu hoa i tuu ilihune, 
 
 Tuu hoa i ta ua e ta matani, 
 
 Tuu hoa i ta vera o ta la, 
 
 Tuu hoa i ta anu o ta mouua, 
 
 Tuu hoa i ta ino, 
 
 Tuu hoa i ta marie, 
 
 Tuu hoa i mau tai awaru, 
 
 Ue, ue, ua hala tuu hoa, 
 
 Aohe e hoi hou mai. 
 
 Alas, alas, dead is my chief, 
 
 Dead is my lord and my friend; 
 
 My friend in the season of famine, 
 
 My friend in the time of drought, 
 
 My friend in my poverty, 
 
 My friend in the rain and the wind, 
 
 My friend in the heat and the sun, 
 
 My friend in the cold from the mountain, 
 
 My friend in the storm, 
 
 My friend in the calm, 
 
 My friend in the eight seas;* 
 
 Alas, alas, gone is my friend, 
 
 And no more will return. 
 
 Other exhibitions of a similar kind I witnessed at Maui. 
 
 MOURNING FOR KEOPUOLANI. 
 
 After the death of Keopuolani, we frequently saw the inhabitants 
 of a whole district, that had belonged to her, coming to weep on 
 account of her death. They walked in profound silence, either in 
 
 A figurative term for the channels between the different islands of the group.
 
 136 
 
 single file, or two or three abreast, the old people leading the van, and 
 the children bringing up the rear. 
 
 They wore not covered with ashes, but almost literally clothed in 
 sack-cloth. No ornaments, or even decent piece of cloth, was seen on 
 any one. Dressed only in old fishing nets, dirty and torn pieces of 
 matting, or tattered garments, and these sometimes tied on their 
 bodies with pieces of old canoe ropes, they appeared the most abject 
 and wretched companies of human beings I ever saw. 
 
 When they were within a few hundred yards of the house where 
 the corpse was lying, they began to lament and wail. The crowds 
 of mourners around the house opened a passage for them to approach 
 it, and then one or two of their number came forward, and standing 
 a little before the rest, began a song or recitation, shewing her 
 birth, rank, honours, and virtues, brandishing a staff or piece of 
 sugar-cane, and accompanying their recitation with attitudes 
 and gestures expressive of the most frantic grief. When they had 
 finished, they sat down, and mingled with the thronging multitudes 
 in their loud and ceaseless wailing. 
 
 MOURNING CUSTOMS AMONG COMMON PEOPLE. 
 
 Though these ceremonies were so popular, and almost universal on 
 the decease of their chiefs, they do not appear to have been practised 
 by the common people among themselves. The wife did not knock- 
 out her teeth on the death of her husband, nor the son his, when he 
 lost his father or mother, neither did parents thus express their grief 
 when bereaved of an only child. Sometimes they cut their hair, but 
 in general only indulged in lamentations and weeping for several days. 
 
 Anxious to make ourselves acquainted with their reasons for these 
 practices, we have frequently conversed with the natives respecting 
 them. 
 
 The former, such as polling the hair, knocking out the teeth, tatau- 
 ing the tongue, &c. they say is designed to shew the loss they have 
 sustained, and perpetually to remind them of their departed friends. 
 
 Kamehamaru, queen of Rihoriho, who died on her recent visit to 
 England, gave me a fine answer to this effect, on the occasion of 
 the death of Keopuolani, her husband 's mother. 
 
 TATOOING THE TONGUE. 
 
 A few days after the interment, I went into a house where a 
 number of chiefs were assembled, for the purpose of having their 
 tongues tataued; and the artist was performing this operation on her's 
 when I entered. He first immersed the face of the instrument, which 
 was a quarter of an inch wide, and set with a number of small fish- 
 bones, into the colouring matter, placed it on her tongue, and giving
 
 137 
 
 it a quick and smart stroke with a small rod in his right hand, punc- 
 tured the skin, and injected the dye at the same time. Her tongue 
 bled much, and a few moments after I entered she made a sign for 
 him to desist. She emptied her mouth of the blood, and then held 
 her hands to it to counteract the pain. 
 
 As soon as it appeared to have subsided a little, I remarked that 
 I was sorry to see her following so useless a custom; and asked if it 
 was not exceedingly painful? She answered, He eha nui no, he 
 nui roa ra kuu aroha! Pain, great indeed; but greater my affection! 
 
 After further remarks, I asked some of the others why they chose 
 that method of shewing their affectionate remembrance of the dead? 
 They said, Aore roa ia e naro! That will never disappear, or be 
 obliterated! 
 
 BURNING THE SKIN. 
 
 Another method, very generally practised by all classes on these 
 occasions, was that of burning on their skin a large number of semi- 
 circles disposed in different forms. It was not done by a heated iron, 
 but having stripped the bark from a small branch of a tree, about 
 an inch in diameter, they held it in the fire till one end of the bark 
 was perfectly ignited, and in this state applied it to the face or 
 bosom, which instantly raised the skin, and after the blister had sub- 
 sided the scars remained a number of days. 
 
 We never found any apologists for the enormities practised on these 
 occasions; and the only excuse they have ever given has been, that 
 at the death of a great chief, the paroxysm of grief has been so 
 violent as to deprive the people of their reason, hence they neither 
 knew nor cared what they did, being hehena, frantic, or out of their 
 senses through sorrow. 
 
 CHANGE EFFECTED BY MISSIONARIES. 
 
 Since the introduction of the gospel by Christian missionaries, or 
 rather since the death of Keopuolani in September, 1823, all the wicked 
 practices, and most of the ceremonies usual on these occasions, have 
 entirely ceased. Knocking out the teeth is discontinued; wailing, cut- 
 ting the hair, and marking the tongue, is still practised; but all the 
 evil customs have been most strictly forbidden by the principal chiefs. 
 
 We took leave of the friendly people of Kalahiti about nine a. m. 
 on the 25th. Messrs. Thurston, Bishop, and Goodrich, continued their 
 journey along the shore, and I went in the canoe in company with 
 Mr. Harwood. 
 
 The coast, along which we sailed, looked literally ironbound. It 
 was formed of steep rocks of porphyritic lava, whose surface wore the 
 most rugged aspect imaginable.
 
 138 
 
 FROM KALAHIKI TO KAPUA. 
 
 About two p. m. we reached Taureonanahoa, three large pillars of 
 lava, about twenty feet square, and apparently sixty or eighty high, 
 standing in the water, within a few yards of each other, and adjacent 
 to the shore. Two of them were united at the top, but open at their 
 base. The various coloured strata of black, reddish, and brown lava, 
 being distinctly marked, looked like so many courses of masonry. We 
 sailed between them and the main land; and about five in the after- 
 noon landed at Kapua, a small and desolate-looking village, on the 
 south-west point of Hawaii, and about twenty miles distant from 
 Kalahiti. Here we had the canoe drawn up on the beach until our 
 companions should arrive. 
 
 After leaving Kalahiti, Messrs. Thurston, Goodrich, and Bishop, pro- 
 ceeded over a rugged tract of lava, broken up in the wildest con- 
 fusion, apparently by an earthquake, while it was in a fluid state. 
 About noon they passed a large crater. Its rim, on the side towards 
 the sea, was broken down, and the streams of lava issuing thence, 
 marked the place by which its contents were principally discharged. 
 The lava was not so porous as that at Keanaee, but, like much in the 
 immediate vicinity of the craters, was of a dark red, or brown fer- 
 ruginous colour, and but partially glazed over. It was exceedingly 
 ponderous and compact, many fragments had quite a basaltic shape, 
 and contained quantities of olivin of a green and brown colour. 
 
 CANOEING THROUGH THE SURF. 
 
 For about a mile along the coast they found it impossible to travel 
 without making a considerable circuit inland; they therefore procured 
 a canoe, and passed along the part of the coast where the sea rolled 
 up against the naked rocks; and about one p. m. landed in a very 
 high surf. To a spectator on the shore their small canoe would have 
 seemed every moment ready to be buried in the waves; yet, by the 
 dexterity of the natives, they were safely landed with no other incon- 
 venience than a slight wetting from the spray of the surf. 
 
 CAMPING AT HONOMALINO. 
 
 Mr. Thurston preached to the people at the place where they landed, 
 after which they took some refreshment, and kept on their way over 
 the same broken and rugged tract of lava till about six p. m. when 
 they reached Honomalino. Here they were so much fatigued with the 
 laborious travelling of the past day, that they were obliged to put 
 up for the night. They procured a little sour poe, and only a small 
 quantity of brackish water. Having conducted family worship with 
 the people of the place, they laid themselves down to rest on their
 
 139 
 
 mats spread on the small fragments of lava, of which the floor of 
 the house was composed. 
 
 Early the next morning the party at Honomalino proceeded to 
 Kapua, and about eight a. m. joined those who had slept there. 
 
 A BARREN AND DESOLATE COUNTRY. 
 
 At this place we hired a man to go about seven miles into the moun- 
 tains for fresh water; but he returned with only one calabash full; a 
 very inadequate supply, as our whole company had suffered much from 
 thirst, and the effects of the brackish water we had frequently drank 
 since leaving Honaunau. 
 
 Nothing can exceed the barren and solitary appearance of this part 
 of the island, not only from the want of fresh water, but from the 
 rugged and broken tracts of lava of which it appears to be entirely 
 composed. 
 
 Unwilling to spend the Sabbath in the desolate and almost forsaken 
 village of Kapua, we prepared for a long day's journey, as we knew 
 of no village before us containing more than five or six houses for 
 nearly thirty miles' distance. 
 
 Before we left Kapua, we were so favoured as to procure water 
 enough to fill our canteens, and about 10 a. m. resumed our journey. 
 Messrs. Thurston, Bishop and Goodrich, walked on by the sea-side. 
 About noon they reached Kaulanamauna, and shortly after left Kona, 
 and entered Kau. 
 
 A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF KONA. 
 
 Kona is the most populous of the six great divisions of Hawaii, and 
 being situated on the leeward side, would probably have been the most 
 fertile and beautiful part of the island, had it not been overflowed by 
 floods of lava. It is joined to Kohala, a short distance to the south- 
 ward of Towaihae bay, and extends along the western shore between 
 seventy and eighty miles, including the irregularities of the coast. 
 
 The northern part, including Kairua, Kearake'kua, and Honaunau, 
 contains a dense population; and the sides of the mountains are culti- 
 vated to a considerable extent; but the south part presents a most 
 inhospitable aspect. The population is thin, consisting principally of 
 fishermen, who cultivate but little land, and that at the distance of 
 from five to seven miles from the shore. 
 
 ENTERING THE KAU DISTRICT. 
 
 The division of Kau commences at Kaulanamauna, runs down to the 
 south point of the island, and stretches about forty miles along the 
 south-east shore. On entering it, the same gloomy and cheerless desert 
 of rugged lava spread itself in every direction from the shore to the
 
 140 
 
 mountains. Here and there at distant intervals they passed a lonely 
 house, or a few wandering fishermen's huts, with a solitary shrub, or 
 species of thistle, struggling for existence among the crevices in the 
 blocks of scoria? and lava. All besides was "one vast desert, dreary, 
 bleak, and wild." 
 
 In many places all traces of a path entirely disappeared; for miles 
 together they clambered over huge pieces of vitreous scoria;, or rugged 
 piles of lava, which, like several of the tracts they had passed in 
 Kona, had been tossed in its present confusion by some violent con- 
 vulsion of the earth. 
 
 VOLCANIC CONDITIONS IN KAU. 
 
 From the state of the lava covering that part of the country through 
 which we have passed, we should be induced to think that eruptions 
 and earthquakes had been, almost without exception, concomitants of 
 each other; and the shocks must have been exceedingly violent, to 
 
 Slabs of lava, from nine to twelve inches thick, and from four to 
 as we every where beheld. 
 
 Slabs of lava, from nine to twelve inches thick, and from four to 
 twenty or thirty feet in diameter, were frequently piled up edgewise 
 or stood leaning against several others piled up in a similar manner. 
 Some of them were six, ten, or twelve feet above the general surface 
 fixed in the lava below, which appeared to have flowed round their 
 base, and filled up the interstices occasioned by the separation of the 
 different pieces. 
 
 One side of these rugged slabs generally presented a compact, 
 smooth, glazed, and gently undulated surface, while the other appeared 
 rugged and broken, as if torn with violence from the viscid mass to 
 which it had tenaciously adhered. Probably these slabs were raised 
 by the expansive force of the heated air beneath the sheet of lava. 
 
 KEAWAIKI — A PORT OF REFUGE. 
 
 After about eighteen miles of most difficult travelling they reached 
 Keavaiti, a small opening among the rocks, where, in case of emerg- 
 ency, a canoe might land in safety. Here they found Mr. Harwood 
 and myself waiting; for, after leaving Kapua, we had sailed along 
 close to the shore, till the wind becoming too strong for us to proceed, 
 we availed ourselves of the opening which Keavaiti afforded, to run the 
 canoe ashore, and wait till the wind should abate, though in so doing 
 we were completely wet with the surf, and spoiled the few pro- 
 visions we had on board. 
 
 The wind was still too strong to allow the canoe to proceed on her 
 voyage; and those who had travelled by land felt too much fatigued 
 to go on without some refreshment and rest. Desirous of spending the
 
 141 
 
 Sabbath -with the people at Tairitii, which was still fourteen or fifteen 
 miles distant, we determined to rest a few hours, and then prosecute 
 our journey by moonlight. 
 
 A number of conical hills, from 150 to 200 feet high, rose imme- 
 diately in our rear, much resembling sand-hills in their appearance. 
 On examination, however, we found them composed of volcanic ashes 
 and cinders; but could not discover any mark of their ever having 
 been craters. 
 
 HARD CONDITIONS AT KEAWAIKI. 
 
 When those of our party who had travelled by land had recovered 
 a little from their fatigue, we partook of such refreshment as re- 
 mained, and drank the little fresh water we had brought with us in the 
 canoe. Being only about a quart between five persons, it was a very 
 inadequate supply in such a dry and thirsty land, yet we drank it with 
 thankfulness, hoping to procure some at Tairitii early on the following 
 morning. 
 
 By the time we had finished our frugal meal, the shades of evening 
 began to close around us. We called our little party together, and 
 after committing ourselves, and those who travelled with us, to the 
 watchful care of our merciful Father, we spread our mats on the small 
 pieces of lava, and lay down to rest under the canopy of heaven. A 
 pile of blocks of scorias and lava, part of which we had built up our- 
 selves, screened our heads from the winds. 
 
 The thermometer at sun-set stood at 73°, yet during the evening the 
 land wind from the snow-covered top of Mouna Eoa blew keenly down 
 upon us. We slept, however, tolerably well till midnight, when the 
 wind from the shore being favourable, and the moon having risen, we 
 resumed our journey. 
 
 TRAA'EL BY MOONLIGHT TO KAILIKII. 
 
 I went with Mr. Harwood in the canoe to Tairitii, which we reached 
 a short time before daybreak; but the surf rolling high, we were 
 obliged to keep off the shore until daylight enabled us to steer be- 
 tween the rocks to the landing place. Some friendly natives came 
 down to the beach, and pointed out the passage to the steersman, by 
 whose kind aid we landed in safety about half past five in the morn- 
 ing of the 27th. Our first inquiry was for water; Mauae, the gov- 
 ernor's man, soon procured a calabash full, fresh and cool, of which 
 we drank most copious draughts, then filled the canteens, and pre- 
 served them for those who were travelling along the shore. 
 
 LACK OF DRINKING WATER. 
 
 About half -past eight, Mr. Thurston hastily entered the house; his 
 first salutation was, "Have you got any water?" A full canteen was
 
 142 
 
 handed to him, with which he quenched his thirst, exclaiming, as he 
 returned it, that he had never in his life before suffered so much for 
 want of water. When he first discovered the houses, about two miles 
 distant, he felt his thirst so great, that he left his companions and 
 hastened on, running and walking till he reached the place where 
 those who arrived in the canoe were stopping. 
 
 After leaving Keavaiti, Messrs. Bishop, Goodrich, and Thurston 
 travelled over the rugged lava, till the moon becoming obscured by 
 dark heavy clouds, they were obliged to halt under a high rock of 
 lava, and wait the dawn of day, for they found it impossible to pro- 
 ceed in the dark, without being every moment in danger of stumbling 
 over the sharp projections of the rocks, or falling into some of the 
 deep and wide fissures that intersected the bed of lava in every 
 direction. 
 
 After waiting about an hour, they resumed their journey; and 
 Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich reached Tairitii nearly half an hour after 
 Mr. Thurston's arrival. 
 
 At 10 a. m. Mr. Thurston preached to the people of Tairitii, and 
 the neighbouring village of Patini, all of whom are fishermen. They 
 behaved with propriety, and appeared interested. 
 
 "We had sent out Makoa, our guide, soon after our arrival, to inform 
 the people that there would be a religious meeting, and invite their 
 attendance. He had gone much further than we expected he would; 
 and just as Mr. Thurston had finished his sermon, he returned, followed 
 by a considerable company from an inland settlement, who, to use their 
 own words, had come to hear about Jehovah and Jesus Christ. They 
 seemed disappointed at finding the service over. As they said they 
 could not wait till the evening, they and the people of the village 
 assembled in a large canoe-house, and Mr. Thurston preached again 
 of salvation through Jesus Christ. They sat very quietly, and listened 
 with apparent attention. After they had spent an hour or two in 
 conversation with us, they returned, seemingly interested in what they 
 had heard. 
 
 In the afternoon Mr. Thurston preached a third time. Between 
 seventy and eighty were present. With most of those who have at- 
 tended the public worship in this place, this day was probably the 
 first time they ever heard of Jehovah the living God, or Jesus Christ 
 the Saviour. We could not but desire and pray that the Holy Spirit 
 might make the word spoken in this distant and desolate part of the 
 earth, the power of God to the salvation of many that heard it. 
 
 A "SPOUTING HORN" AT KAILIKII. 
 
 July 28th. — During the whole of yesterday a most beautiful spouting 
 of the water had attracted our attention, which we found was pro-
 
 143 
 
 duced in a manner similar to that we had witnessed at Kairua. The 
 aperture in the lava was about two feet in diameter, and every few 
 seconds a column of water was thrown up with considerable noise, and 
 a pleasing effect, to the height of thirty-five or forty feet. 
 
 The lava at this place was very ancient, and much heavier than what 
 we had seen in Kona. The vesicles in it were also completely filled 
 with olivin, which appeared in small, green, hard, transparent crystals, 
 in such quantities as to give the rocks quite a green appearance; some 
 of the olivin was brown. 
 
 In this neighbourhood we also discovered large masses of porphyritic 
 lava, containing crystals of felspar and olivin in great quantities, and 
 apparently black schorls. 
 
 LIMIT OF CANOE TRAVEL. 
 
 The trade-winds blowing along the shore very fresh, and directly 
 against us, obliged us to leave our canoe at this place. Mauae and his 
 companions having drawn it into an adjacent shed, took off the out- 
 rigger and left it, together with the mast, sails, and paddles, in the 
 care of the man at whose house we had lodged; as he was also desirous 
 to see the volcano, and, after an absence of several years, to revisit 
 Kaimu, in the division of Puna, the place of his birth, he prepared to 
 accompany us by land. 
 
 Hitherto we had travelled along the sea-shore, in order to visit the 
 most populous villages in the districts through which we had passed. 
 But here receiving information that we should find more inhabitants 
 a few miles inland, than nearer the sea, we thought it best to direct 
 our course towards the mountains. 
 
 Makoa, our guide, procured men to carry our baggage, and at nine 
 a. m. we left Tairitii. Our way lay over a bed of ancient lava, smooth, 
 considerably decomposed, and generally covered with a thin layer of 
 soil. We passed along the edge of a more recent stream of lava, 
 rugged, black, and appalling in its aspect, compared with the tract we 
 were walking over, which here and there showed a green tuft of grass, 
 a straggling shrub, or a creeping convolvulus. 
 
 TRAMPING ALONG THE KAHUKU BLUFF. 
 
 After travelling about a mile, we reached the foot of a steep 
 precipice. A winding path led to its top, up which we pursued our 
 way, occasionally resting beneath the shade of huge overhanging rocks. 
 This precipice is about three hundred feet high, and the rocks on frac- 
 ture proved a dark grey kind of lava, more compact than that on the 
 adjacent plain. 
 
 The whole pile appears to have been formed by successive eruptions 
 from some volcano in the interior, as there appeared to be a thin layer
 
 144 
 
 of soil between some of the strata, or different inundations, which we 
 supposed was produced by the decomposition of the lava on the surface 
 of the lower stratum, before overflowed by the superincumbent mass. 
 
 The rocks appeared to have been rent in a line from the sea-shore 
 towards the mountains, and probably the same convulsion which burst 
 the rocks asunder, sunk the plain to its present level. 
 
 A CHANGE OF SCENE. 
 
 In half an hour we reached its summit. A beautiful country now 
 appeared before us, and we seemed all at once transported to some 
 happier island, where the devastations attributed to Nahoaarii, and 
 Pele, deities of the volcanoes, had never been known. 
 
 The rough and desolate tract of lava, with all its distorted forms, 
 was exchanged for the verdant plain, diversified with gently rising 
 hills, and sloping dales, ornamented with shrubs, and gay with bloom- 
 ing flowers. We saw, however, no stream of water during the whole 
 of the day; but, from the luxuriance of the herbage in every direction, 
 the rains must be frequent or the dews heavy. 
 
 About noon we reached Kalehu, a small village, upwards of four 
 miles from Tairitii. The kind cottagers brought us some fine water- 
 melons, which afforded us a grateful repast while we rested during 
 the heat of the noonday sun. 
 
 WATERMELONS AT KALEHU. 
 
 Between sixty and seventy persons collected around the house in 
 which we were sitting, and as I was so far recovered as to be able 
 to preach, I addressed them from Matt. i. 21. They seemed inter- 
 ested, and afterwards said, that they had heard good news. We re- 
 mained about an hour, conversing on some of the first principles of the 
 religion of Jesus Christ, and then resumed our journey over the same 
 beautiful country, which was partially cultivated, and contained a nu- 
 merous, though scattered, population. 
 
 The prospect was delightful. On one hand the Pacific dashed its 
 mighty waves against the rocky shore, and on the other, the kuahivi 
 (mountain ridges) of Kau, and snow-top 'd Mouna Boa, rose in the in- 
 terior, with lofty grandeur. 
 
 UPLAND TARO CULTIVATION. 
 
 Our path led us through several fields of mountain taro, (a variety 
 of the arum,) a root which appears to be extensively cultivated in 
 many parts of Hawaii. It was growing in a dry sandy soil, into 
 which our feet sunk two or three inches every step we took. The 
 roots were of an oblong shape, generally from ten inches to a foot in 
 length, and four or six inches in diameter. Seldom more than two or
 
 145 
 
 three leaves were attached to a root, and those of a light green colour, 
 frequently blotched and sickly in their appearance. The inside of the 
 root is of a brown or reddish colour, and much inferior to that of 
 the arum esculentum, or lowland taro. It is, however, very palatable, 
 and forms a prime article of food in those parts of the island, where 
 there is a light soil, and but little water. 
 
 AN OVERNIGHT STOP AT KAULTJ. 
 
 Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon we reached Kauru, 
 a small village environed with plantations, and pleasantly situated on 
 the side of a wide valley, extending from the mountains to the south 
 point of the island. As the men with our baggage had not come up, 
 we waited about two hours, when Tuite, the head man of the village, 
 arrived, and pressed us to spend the night at his house. We accepted 
 his invitation, and proposed to him to collect the people of the village 
 together, to hear about the true God. He consented, and a little before 
 sunset about a hundred and fifty assembled in front of his house. 
 
 Mr. Thurston, after the usual devotional exercises, preached to them 
 for about half an hour, and they paid great attention. During the 
 evening, a baked pig, with some potatoes, and taro, was brought for 
 our supper, of which we made a hearty repast. 
 
 A FERTILE BUT SPARSELY SETTLED DISTRICT. 
 
 At the request of Makoa, Tuite furnished men to carry our baggage 
 to the next district, and soon after daylight on the 29th we left 
 Kauru, and, taking an inland direction, travelled over a fertile plain, 
 covered with a thin yet luxuriant soil. Sometimes the surface was 
 strewed with small stones, or fragments of lava, but in general it 
 was covered with brushwood. 
 
 The population in this part did not appear concentrated in towns 
 and villages, as it had been along the sea-shore, but scattered over 
 the whole face of the country, which appeared divided into farms 
 of varied extent, and upon these the houses generally stood singly, or 
 in small clusters, seldom exceeding four or five in number. 
 
 After walking six or seven miles, we entered the district of Papa- 
 pohaku. When we had nearly passed through it, we sat down to rest, 
 on a pile of stones by the way side. Between sixty and seventy 
 natives soon collected around us; presenting a motley group. Most 
 of the children were naked, or at best had only a narrow slip of tapa 
 fastened round their loins. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OP PEOPLE OF PAPAPOHAKU. 
 
 ral of the men, on seeing us pass along the road, had left their 
 work in the fields and gardens, and, although covered with dust and 
 
 10
 
 146 
 
 perspiration, had seated themselves in the midst, with their o-os in 
 their hand. (This o-o is the principal implement of husbandry which 
 a Hawaiian farmer uses. Formerly it was a sharp-pointed stick of 
 hard wood; it is now usually pointed with iron. The best are made 
 with broad socket chisels, into which they fix a handle four or six feet 
 long.) Their only clothing was the maro, a narrow girdle worn round 
 the loins, one end of which passes between the legs, and fastens in 
 front. 
 
 The old men were most of them dressed in a kihei, as were also 
 some of the women, but many of the latter wore only a pau of native 
 cloth wound round their loins. Their black hair was in several in- 
 stances turned up, and painted white all round the forehead, with 
 a kind of chalk or clay, which is found in several parts of the island. 
 
 Many also wore a small looking-glass, set in a solid piece of wood, 
 and suspended on the bosom by a handkerchief, or strip of native 
 cloth, fastened round the neck, to which was sometimes added an- 
 other article, considered equally useful, and not less ornamental; 
 viz. a small wooden brass-tipped tobacco-pipe; the looking-glass and 
 tobacco-pipe were sometimes combined in one ornament. 
 
 FOREIGNERS A CURIOSITY. 
 
 Most of these people had probably never seen so large a company 
 of foreigners before; and their curiosity, as might be expected, was 
 unusually excited. Their countenances, however, indicated no feel- 
 ings of jealousy, but manifested a degree of pleasure greater than 
 ordinary. 
 
 After conversing with them some time on the objects of our tour, 
 and their ideas of the true God, we proposed to them to listen to his 
 word, and unite with us in worshipping him. They seated themselves 
 on the grass. We sung a hymn, and I preached from Psalm cxxviii. 1. 
 At the conclusion of our religious service we resumed our journey, sev- 
 eral of the natives following us to the next village. 
 
 THE BEAUTIES OP WAIOHINU. 
 
 Our path running in a northerly direction, seemed leading us towards 
 a ridge of high mountains, but it suddenly turned to the east, and 
 presented to our view a most enchanting valley, clothed with verdure, 
 and ornamented with clumps of kukui and kou trees. On the south- 
 east it was open towards the sea, and on both sides adorned with gar- 
 dens, and interspersed with cottages, even to the summits of the hills. 
 
 A fine stream of fresh water, the first we had seen on the island, 
 ran along the centre of the valley, while several smaller ones issued 
 from the rocks on the opposite side, and watered the plantations be- 
 low. We drank a most grateful draught from the principal stream,
 
 147 
 
 and then continued our way along its margin, through. Kiolaakaa, 
 travelling towards the sea, till we reached Waiohinu, about ten 
 miles from the place where we slept last night. Here we found a very 
 comfortable house belonging to Pai, the head man, who invited us in, 
 and kindly entertained us. 
 
 About noon, a hospitable dinner was prepared, of which, with the 
 additional luxury of fresh water, we made a comfortable meal. 
 
 FIRST KNOWLEDGE OP JESUS CHRIST. 
 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon the people of the place were col- 
 lected outside of the house; and when we had requested them to sit 
 down, we conducted a religious exercise similar to that held in the 
 morning. Much conversation followed, on the subject of religion. 
 They said they had heard of Ieho (Jehovah) our God, but had never 
 before heard of Jesus Christ; that, until now, they did not know there 
 was a Sabbath day, on which they ought not to work, but that here- 
 after they would recollect and observe it. They wished, they said, 
 to become good men, and to be saved by Jesus Christ. 
 
 Between three and four o'clock we took leave of them, and pur- 
 sued our journey towards the sea-shore. Our road, for a considerable 
 distance, lay through the cultivated parts of this beautiful valley: 
 the mountain taro, bordered by sugar-cane and bananas, was planted 
 in fields six or eight acres in extent, on the sides of the hills, and 
 seemed to thrive luxuriantly. On leaving the valley, we proceeded 
 along by the foot of the mountains, in a line parallel with the sea, 
 and about a mile and a half from it. 
 
 THE GAME OF PAHE DESCRIBED. 
 
 In our way we passed over a tahua pahe, or pahe floor, about fifty 
 or sixty yards long, where a number of men were playing at pahe, 
 a favourite amusement with farmers and common people in general. 
 The pahe is a blunt kind of dart, varying in length from two to five 
 feet, and thickest about six inches from the point, after which it 
 tapers gradually to the other end. These darts are made with much 
 ingenuity, of a heavy wood. They are highly polished, and thrown 
 with great force or exactness along the level ground, or floor of 
 earth, previously prepared for the game. 
 
 Sometimes the excellence of the play consists in the dexterity with 
 which the pahe is thrown. On these occasions two darts are laid down 
 at a certain distance, three or four inches apart, and he who, in a 
 given number of times, throws his dart most frequently between these 
 two, without striking either of them, wins the game. 
 
 At other times it is a mere trial of strength; and those win who, 
 in a certain number of times, throw their darts farthest. A mark
 
 148 
 
 is made in the ground, to designate the spot from which they are to 
 throw it. The players, balancing the pahe in their right hand, re- 
 treat a few yards from this spot, and then springing forward to the 
 mark, dart it along the ground with great velocity. The darts re- 
 main wherever they stop till all are thrown, when the whole party 
 run to the other end of the floor, to see whose have been the most suc- 
 cessful throws. 
 
 THE GAME OP MAIKA DESCRIBED. 
 
 This latter game is very laborious, yet we have known the men of 
 whole districts engage in it at once, and have seen them playing 
 several hours together, under the scorching rays of a vertical sun. 
 
 On the same tahua or floor they also play at another game, re- 
 sembling the pahe, which they call maita or uru maita. 
 
 Two sticks are stuck in the ground only a few inches apart, at a 
 distance of thirty or forty yards, and between these, but without 
 striking either, the parties at play strive to throw their stone; at 
 other times, the only contention is, who can bowl it farthest along 
 the tahua or floor. 
 
 The uru, which they use instead of a dart, is a circular stone 
 admirably adapted for rolling, being of compact lava, or a white 
 alluvial rock, (found principally in the island of Oahu,) about three 
 or four inches in diameter, an inch in thickness around the edge, but 
 thicker, and consequently heavier, in the centre. 
 
 COMPETITIVE TOURNAMENTS. 
 
 These stones are finely polished, highly valued, and carefully pre- 
 served, being always oiled and wrapped up in native cloth after hav- 
 ing been used. The people are, if possible, more fond of this game 
 than the pahe; and the inhabitants of a district, not unfrequently chal- 
 lenge the people of the whole island, or the natives of one island 
 those of all the others, to bring a man who shall try his skill with 
 some favourite player of their own district or island. 
 
 On such occasions we have seen seven or eight thousand chiefs and 
 people, men and women, assembled to witness the sport, which, as 
 well as the pahe, is often continued for hours together. 
 
 Many of these amusements require great bodily exertion; and we 
 have often been struck with the restless avidity and untiring effort 
 with which they pursue even the most toilsome games. 
 
 Sometimes we have expressed our surprise that they should labour 
 so arduously at their sport, and so leisurely at their plantations or 
 houses, which, in our opinion, would be far more conducive of their 
 advantage and comfort. 
 
 They have generally answered, that they built houses and culti-
 
 149 
 
 vated their gardens from necessity, but followed their amusements be- 
 cause their hearts were fond of them. 
 
 GAMBLING CHIEF INCENTIVE OF GAMES. 
 
 There are some few who play merely for pleasure; but the greater 
 part engage in it in hopes of gain. 
 
 Were their games followed only as sources of amusement, they 
 would be comparatively harmless; but the demoralizing influence of 
 the various kinds of gambling existing among them is very extensive. 
 
 Scarcely an individual resorts to their games but for the purpose of 
 betting; and at these periods all the excitement, anxiety, exultation, 
 and rage, which such pursuits invariably produce, are not only visible 
 in every countenance, but fully acted out, and all the malignant pas- 
 sions which gambling engenders are indulged without restraint. 
 
 DESPERATE BETTING. 
 
 We have seen females hazarding their beads, scissors, cloth-beating 
 mallets, and every piece of cloth they possessed, except what they 
 wore, on a throw of the uru or pahe. 
 
 In the same throng might be frequently seen the farmer with his 
 o-o, and other implements of husbandry; the builder of canoes, with 
 his hatchets and adzes; and some poor man, with a knife, and the 
 mat on which he slept, — all eager to stake every article they pos- 
 sessed on the success of their favourite player; and when they have 
 lost all, we have known them, frantic with rage, tear their hair from 
 their heads on the spot. 
 
 This is not all; the sport seldom terminates without quarrels, some- 
 times of a serious nature, ensuing between the adherents of the dif- 
 ferent parties. 
 
 Since schools have been opened in the islands, and the natives 
 have been induced to direct their attention to Christian instruction 
 and intellectual improvement, we have had the satisfaction to observe 
 these games much less followed than formerly; and we hope the period 
 is fast approaching, when they shall only be the healthful exercises 
 of children, and when the time and strength devoted to purposes so 
 useless, and often injurious, shall be employed in cultivating their 
 fertile soil, augmenting their sources of individual and social hap- 
 piness, and securing to themselves the enjoyment of the comforts and 
 privileges of civilized and Christian life. 
 
 The country appeared more thickly inhabited than that over which 
 we had travelled in the morning. The villages, along the sea shore, 
 were near together, and some of them extensive.
 
 150 
 A RELIGIOUS DISCUSSION AT KAPAUKU. 
 
 After travelling about an hour, we came to Kapauku, a pleasant 
 village belonging to Naihe. As we passed through it we found tall 
 rows of sugar-cane lining the path on either side, and beneath their 
 shade we sat down to rest. 
 
 A crowd of natives soon gathered around us; and after a little 
 general conversation, we asked them who was their god? They 
 said they had no god; formerly they had many, but now they had 
 cast them all away. 
 
 We asked them if they had done well in abolishing them? They 
 said, Yes, for the tabu occasioned much labour and inconvenience, and 
 drained off the best of their property. 
 
 We asked them if it was a good thing to have no god, and to 
 know of no being to whom they ought to render religious homage? 
 They said perhaps it was, for they had nothing to provide for the 
 great sacrifices, and were under no fear of punishment for breaking 
 tabu; that now, one fire cooked their food, and men and women ate 
 together the same kind of provisions. 
 
 We asked them if they would not like to hear about the true God, 
 and the only Saviour? They said they had heard of Jesus Christ, 
 by a boy belonging to Naihe, who came from Oahu about two months 
 ago; but he had not told them much, and they should like to hear 
 something more. 
 
 NATIVES FAVORABLY DISPOSED. 
 
 I then requested them to sit down, and preached to them on the 
 way of salvation by Jesus Christ. When the service was ended, many 
 involuntarily exclaimed, Nui roa maitai! E ake makou i kanaka 
 makou no Jesu, a i ora roa ia ia. It is greatly good! We wish to 
 become the people of Jesus Christ, and to be saved everlastingly by 
 him. 
 
 We recommended them to think on his love, and to love him in 
 return; to obey him; to keep the Sabbath-day, by abstaining from 
 labour, and meeting together to talk about what they had heard; to 
 ask God in prayer to teach them all his righteous will; and to send to 
 Naihe their chief, or the missionaries at Oahu, for books, and a per- 
 son to instruct them. 
 
 Bidding them farewell, we directed our course towards the shore, 
 and in about half an hour came to Honuapo, an extensive and popu- 
 lous village, standing on a level bed of lava which runs out a con- 
 siderable distance into the sea. 
 
 THE LEGEND OF KAWELOHEA. 
 
 As we approached this place, the natives led us to a steep precipice, 
 overhanging the sea, and pointed out a rock in the water below,
 
 151 
 
 called Kaverohea. They seemed to regard both the place where we 
 were, and the rock below, with strong feelings of superstition; at 
 which we were not surprised, when they informed us, that formerly 
 a jealous husband, who resided a short distance from the place, mur- 
 dered his wife in a cruel manner with a stone, and afterwards dragged 
 her down to the place where we stood, and threw her into the sea; 
 that she fell on the rock which we saw, and, immediately afterwards, 
 while he stood ruminating on what he had done, called out to him 
 in the most affectionate and lamentable strains, attesting her inno- 
 cence of the crime for which she had been murdered. 
 
 From the rock, which is still called by her name, they said her 
 voice was often heard calling to her husband, and there her form was 
 sometimes seen. They also informed us, that her lamentations were 
 considered by them as ominous of some great disaster; as of war, or 
 famine, or the death of a distinguished chief. We told them it was 
 in imagination only that she was seen, and that her supposed lamen- 
 tations were but the noise of the surf, or the whistling of the winds. 
 
 PRIMITIVE PEOPLE AT HONUAPO. 
 
 From the manner in which we were received at Honuapo, we 
 should not think this village had been often visited by foreigners; 
 for on our descending from the high land to the lava on which the 
 town stands, the natives came running out to meet us from all 
 quarters, and soon gathered so thickly around us, that we found it 
 difficult to proceed. 
 
 Boys and girls danced and hallooed before us; vast numbers walked 
 by our side, or followed us, occasionally taking us by the hand, or 
 catching hold of some part of our clothes. 
 
 They seemed surprised at our addressing them in their own tongue, 
 but were much more so when Mauae, who preceded us with a large 
 fan in his hand, told them we were teachers of religion, — that we had 
 preached and prayed at every place where we had stopped, and should 
 most likely do so there before we slept. 
 
 We passed through the town to the residence of the head man, 
 situated on the farthest point towards the sea. He invited us to 
 his house, procured us water to wash our feet with, and immediately 
 sent to an adjacent pond for some fish for our supper. While that 
 was preparing, the people assembled in crowds around the house, 
 and a little before sun-set Mr. Thurston preached to them in the 
 front yard. Upwards of 200 were present, and, during the whole of 
 the service, sat quietly and listened attentively. 
 
 TATOOING SIMILAR TO THAT OP NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 A number of the people at this place had one of their lips tataued, 
 after the manner of some of the New Zealand tribes. There was
 
 152 
 
 more tatauing here than we had observed at any other place; but it 
 was very rudely done, displaying much less taste and elegance than 
 the figures on the bodies of either the New Zealanders, Tahitians, or 
 Marquesians, which are sometimes really beautiful. 
 
 After the service, some of our number visited the ruins of a heiau, 
 on a point of lava near our lodging. During the evening we made 
 some inquiries respecting it, found it had been dedicated to Tairi, 
 and was thrown down in the general destruction of idols in 1819. 
 
 STATUS OF IDOLATRY AND RELIGION. 
 They seemed to think it was well that idolatry had been pro- 
 hibited by the king; said its frequent requisitions kept them very 
 poor, and occasioned them much labour. 
 
 They were, as might be expected, almost entirely ignorant of the 
 religion of Jesus Christ. And from what we saw and heard on first 
 arriving among them, we should fear they were much degraded by 
 immorality and vice. 
 
 One man only from this place had been at Honoruru, in Oahu, 
 since the king had been favourably disposed towards Christianity; 
 while there, he once attended the public worship in the native lan- 
 guage, and heard about Jesus Christ, the God of the foreigners; but 
 had given a very imperfect account of him. 
 
 The people seemed inclined to listen attentively to what was said 
 about salvation through the Eedeemer; and though fatigued by our 
 journey and exercises with the people of the different places where 
 we had stopped during the day, we esteemed it a privilege to spend 
 the evening in conversation on a topic of so much interest and im- 
 portance, and experienced no small degree of pleasure, while en- 
 deavouring to eonvey to their uninformed, but apparently inquiring 
 minds, a concise and simple view of the leading doctrines and duties 
 of our holy religion. 
 
 PEOPLE TALKED ALL NIGHT. 
 At a late hour, we asked them to unite with us in our evening 
 worship, and afterwards lay down to rest. Many of the people in 
 the house, however, continued talking till almost daylight. The at- 
 tention given by the people to our instructions is not to be considered 
 as evidencing their conversion to Christianity, or indicating any de- 
 cisive change in their views or feelings, but are merely noticed aa 
 pleasing manifestations of their willingness to listen to the truths 
 we are desirous to promulgate amongst them. 
 
 GREAT INTEREST IN RELIGIOUS SUBJECTS. 
 On the morning of the 30th, we arose much refreshed, but Makoa 
 not having arrived with our baggage, we did not leave Honuapo so 
 early as we could have wished.
 
 1 4 
 
 1
 
 154 
 
 Great numbers of the people crowded our house at an early hour, 
 and, while breakfast was preparing, they were addressed from Psalm 
 xcvi. 4. When the service was ended, the people were anxious to 
 know more about these things; some time was therefore spent in 
 conversation with them. We had seldom- seen any who appeared more 
 interested in the truths of the gospel, than the people of Honuapo. 
 
 About eight a. m. Makoa arrived, but without our baggage. The 
 men who were bringing it, he said, could not be persuaded to come 
 on last night, but had set out this morning, and would soon over- 
 take us. 
 
 MAKOA FEARS VOLCANO GODS. 
 
 We now acquainted him with our intention to visit the volcano, 
 and requested him to hasten on the men with our baggage, as we 
 should want more things there than we could conveniently carry. 
 
 He objected strongly to our going thither, as we should most likely 
 be mischievous, and offend Pele or Nahoaarii, gods of the volcano, 
 by plucking the ohelo, (sacred berries,) digging up the sand, or 
 throwing stones into the crater, and then they would either rise out 
 of the crater in volumes of smoke, send up large stones to fall upon 
 us and kill us, or cause darkness and rain to overtake us, so that we 
 should never find our way back. 
 
 We told him we did not apprehend any danger from the gods; 
 that we knew there were none; and should certainly visit the volcano. 
 
 If we were determined on going, he said, we must go by ourselves, 
 he would go with us as far as Kapapala, the last village at which we 
 should stop, and about twenty miles' on this side of it; from thence 
 he would descend to the sea-shore, and wait till we overtook him. 
 
 The governor, he said, had told him not to go there, and, if he had 
 not, he should not venture near it, for it was a fearful place. 
 
 FROM HONUAPO TO HOKUKANO. 
 
 We waited till after nine o'clock, when, the men not arriving with 
 our baggage, we proceeded on our way, leaving Makoa to wait for 
 them, and come after us as far as Kapapala, where we expected to 
 spend the night. As we walked through the village, numbers of the 
 people came out of their houses, and followed us for a mile or two, 
 when they gradually fell behind. When they designed to leave us, 
 they would run on a little way ahead, sit down on a rock, give us 
 their parting aroha as we passed, and continue to follow us with their 
 eyes till we were out of sight. 
 
 After travelling some time over a wide tract of lava, in some places 
 almost as rugged as any we had yet seen, we reached Hokukano. Here 
 we found an excellent spring of fresh water, the first we had yet
 
 155 
 
 seen on our tour, though we had travelled upwards of a hundred 
 miles. 
 
 While we were stopping to drink, and rest ourselves, many natives 
 gathered around us from the neighbourhood. We requested them to 
 accompany us to a cluster of houses a little further on, which they 
 very cheerfully did; and here I addressed them, and invited all who 
 were athirst, and whosoever would, to come and take of the water 
 of life freely. 
 
 They sat quietly on the lava till the concluding prayer was finished, 
 when several simultaneously exclaimed: "He mea maitai ke ora, e 
 makemake au:" A good thing is salvation; I desire it. They then 
 proposed several questions, which we answered apparently to their 
 satisfaction, and afterwards kept on our way. 
 
 FISH PONDS AT HILEA. 
 
 We travelled over another rugged tract of lava about two hundred 
 rods wide. It had been most violently torn to pieces, and thrown 
 up in the wildest confusion; in some places it was heaped forty or fifty 
 feet high. The road across it was formed of large smooth round 
 stones, placed in a line two or three feet apart. By stepping along 
 on these stones, we passed over, though not without considerable 
 fatigue. 
 
 xVbout half-past eleven we reached Hilea, a pleasant village be- 
 longing to the governor. As we approached it, we observed a num- 
 ber of artificial fish-ponds, formed by excavating the earth to the 
 depth of two or three feet, and banking up the sides. The sea is let 
 into them occasionally, and they are generally well stocked with ex- 
 cellent fish of the mullet kind. 
 
 We went into the house of the head man, and asked him to collect 
 the people together, as we wished to speak to them about the true 
 God. He sent out, and most of the people of the village, then at 
 home, about two hundred in number, soon collected in his house, which 
 was large, where Mr. Thurston preached to them. They appeared 
 gratified with what they had heard, and pressed us very much to 
 spend the day with them. We could not consent to this, as we had 
 travelled but a short distance since leaving Honuapo. 
 
 HOSPITALITY OF HILEA CHIEF. 
 
 The head man then asked us to stop till he could prepare some 
 refreshment; saying, he had hogs, fish, taro, potatoes, and bananas in 
 abundance. We told him we were not in need of any thing, and 
 would rather go on. He said, probably the governor would be angry 
 with him, banish him, or perhaps take off his head, when he should 
 hear that he had not entertained his friends as they passed through
 
 156 
 
 the place. We ate a few ripe plantains which he placed before us, 
 and then took our leave, assuring him that we would speak to the 
 governor on the subject of taking off his head, &c. This seemed to 
 satisfy him in some measure, and, after accompanying us a short 
 distance, he gave us his aroha, and returned. 
 
 SCENE OP KEOUA'S PINAL DEFEAT. 
 
 As we left Hilea, our guide pointed out a small hill, called Makanau, 
 where Keoua, the last rival of Tamehameha, surrendered himself up 
 to the warriors under Taiana, by whom he had been conquered in 
 two successive engagements. He was the younger brother of Kauike- 
 ouli, the eldest son and successor of Taraiopu. 
 
 After the battle of Keei, in which his brother was slain, he fled 
 to Hiro, the large eastern division of the island. The warriors of 
 Hiro, with those of Puna, and some parts of Kau, on the south-east, 
 together with those of part of Hamakua on the north-east, declared 
 themselves in his favour, as the immediate descendant of Taraiopu. 
 Among them he resided several years, undisturbed by Tamehameha, 
 frequently making attacks on the northern and western parts of thtf 
 island, in which, however, he was generally repulsed with loss. 
 
 Notwithstanding the defeats he had experienced, he was still de- 
 sirous to obtain the sovereignty of the whole island, to the throne of 
 which he considered himself the legitimate heir, and in the year 1789 
 marched from Hiro with all his forces, to attack Kau and Kona on 
 the western shores. 
 
 A DESTRUCTIVE ERUPTION. 
 
 He took the inland road, and on his way across the island halted 
 for the night in the vicinity of the volcano. An eruption took place 
 that very night, and destroyed the warriors of two small villages, 
 in all about eighty men. This was considered an ill omen. 
 
 He, however, continued his march, and shortly after reached Tairitii. 
 Here he was met by a body of Tamehameha 's warriors under Taiana, 
 a chief of whom frequent mention is made in Meares's and Dixon's 
 voyages. 
 
 An engagement took place, in which he was defeated, and obliged 
 to retreat towards Hiro. The victorious party pursued, and over- 
 took him at Puakokoki, in the division of Puna, where another battle 
 was fought, in which his forces were totally routed, and almost all 
 of them slain. He saved himself by flying to the mountains, attended 
 by a few of his kahu, or faithful companions. Taiana and his war- 
 riors returned to Waiohinu, there to remain till the place of his 
 retreat should be discovered.
 
 157 
 SURRENDER OF KEOUA. 
 
 After some time, Keoua, Kaoreioku, his younger brother, and a 
 few friends that were with them, came to Makanau. From hence 
 he despatched a messenger to Taiana, requesting permission to pass 
 to the sea-shore, in order that he might go and surrender himself to 
 Tamehameha, who was then at Towaihae. 
 
 Taiana, and the rest of the warriors, agreed to allow him to pass 
 unmolested through their camp, and Keaveaheuru, the father of 
 Naihe, present chief of Kaavaroa, and Kamahoe, father of Hoapiri, 
 two near relatives of Keoua, though attached to Tamehameha, went 
 back to assure him of his safety, and of the friendly feelings of 
 Tamehameha towards him. 
 
 KEOUA" S PROGRESS TO KAWAIHAE. 
 
 He accompanied them to Tairitii, where they embarked in Taiana 's 
 canoes, and directed their course along the western shores to Towai- 
 hae. On their way he stopped at several places, particularly Hono- 
 malino, Honaunau, Kaavaroa, Keauhou, and Kairua. The people at 
 each of the places, at Honaunau in particular, crowded around him, 
 brought him presents of food, hogs, tapa, and fruits, and, by every 
 means in their power, demonstrated their attachment to him. Many 
 of them wept, some on account of the joy they felt at seeing him 
 again; others, from a foreboding fear of the result of his surrender to 
 Tamehameha. 
 
 He stopped two nights at Paraoa, a small village a few miles to 
 the southward of Towaihae, where he received the greatest assurances 
 of Tamehameha 's kind intentions; and on the morning of the third 
 day, proceeded to Towaihae. 
 
 THE TREACHEROUS MURDER OF KEOUA. 
 
 Tamehameha, with his chiefs, was standing on the beach as his 
 canoe came in sight, and, with most of the chiefs, intended to protect 
 him; but Keeaumoku, a chief of the most sanguinary disposition, who 
 had grappled with his elder brother in the battle at Keei, had deter- 
 mined on his death; and fearing Tamehameha might frustrate his 
 purpose, if the canoe was allowed to land, he waded above his middle 
 into the sea; and regardless of the orders of Tamehameha, and the 
 expostulations of the other chiefs, caught hold of the canoe as it 
 approached the shore, and either with his pahoa, or a long knife, 
 stabbed Keoua to the heart as he sat in the stern. He also mur- 
 dered seven of his companions and friends, who came in the same 
 canoe. 
 
 In another canoe was Kaorrioku, his younger brother, and the 
 father of Pauahi, one of the wives of Rihoriho, the late sovereign of
 
 158 
 
 the islands. Tamehameha gave strict orders to protect it, and their 
 lives were spared. 
 
 Tamehameha, and many of the chiefs, particularly Keaveaheuru 
 and Kamahoe, are reported to have regretted his death. Keeaumoku, 
 however, justified his horrid act by saying, that if Keoua had been 
 allowed to live, they should never have been secure. 
 
 THE REPRODUCTIVE PEBBLES OF NINOLE. 
 
 We had not travelled far before we reached Ninole, a small village 
 on the sea-shore, celebrated on account of a short pebbly beach 
 called Koroa, the stones of which were reported to possess very 
 singular properties, amongst others, that of propagating their species. 
 
 The natives told us it was a wahi pana (place famous) for supply- 
 ing the stones employed in making small adzes and hatchets, before 
 they were acquainted with the use of iron; but particularly for fur- 
 nishing the stones of which the gods were made, who presided over 
 most of the games of Hawaii. Some powers of discrimination, they 
 told us, were necessary to discover the stones which would answer to 
 be deified. 
 
 THE MANUFACTURE OF GODS. 
 
 When selected, they were taken to the heiau, and there several 
 ceremonies were performed over them. Afterwards, when dressed, 
 and taken to the place where the games were practised, if the parties 
 to whom they belonged were successful, their fame was established; 
 but, if unsuccessful for several times together, they were either 
 broken to pieces, or thrown contemptuously away. 
 
 When any were removed for the purpose of being transformed into 
 gods, one of each sex was generally selected, and were always wrapped 
 very carefully together in a piece of native cloth. After a certain 
 time, they said a small stone would be found with them, which, when 
 grown to the size of its parents, was taken to the heiau or temple, 
 and afterwards made to preside at the games. 
 
 We were really surprised at the tenacity with which this last opinion 
 was adhered to, not only by the poor people of the place, but by 
 several others, with whom we have since conversed, and whom we 
 should have supposed better informed. It required all the argument 
 and ridicule that we could employ, to make them believe it could not 
 possibly be so. Koroa was also a place of importance in times of 
 war, as the best stones used in their slings were procured here. 
 
 GAME OF KONANE DESCRIBED. 
 
 This place is also celebrated as furnishing the small black and 
 white stones used by the natives in playing at konane, a native game, 
 resembling drafts, and apparently more intricate.
 
 159 
 
 The konane board is generally two feet long, and contains up- 
 wards of two hundred squares, usually fourteen in a row. It is a 
 favourite amusement with the old men; and we have known one game, 
 commenced early in the morning, hardly concluded on the same day. 
 
 "We examined some of the stones. The black ones appeared to be 
 pieces of trap, or compact lava. The white ones were branches of 
 white coral, common to all the islands of the Pacific. The angles 
 of both were worn away, and the attrition occasioned by the con- 
 tinual rolling of the surf on the beach, had also given them a con- 
 siderable polish. 
 
 AT PUNALUU — TRAVELING INLAND. 
 
 After travelling about two miles, we came to Punaruu, where the 
 people of that and the next village, Wailau, collected together in a 
 large house, and were addressed on the nature and attributes of the 
 true God, and the way of salvation. 
 
 In general, speaking to the people in the open air was preferred, 
 as we then had more hearers than when we addressed them in a 
 house. But in the middle of the day we usually found it too hot to 
 stand so long in the sun. The services which we held in the morning 
 and evening were always out of doors. 
 
 We now left the road by the sea-side, and directed our course to- 
 wards the mountains. Our path lay over a rich yellow-looking soil of 
 decomposed lava, or over a fine black vegetable mould, in which we 
 occasionally saw a few masses of lava partially decomposed, sufficient 
 to convince us that the whole had once been overflowed, and that 
 lava was the basis of the whole tract of country. There was but 
 little cultivation, though the ground appeared well adapted to the 
 growth of all the most valuable produce of the islands. 
 
 DOMESTIC LIFE OP NATIVES AT MAKAAKA. 
 
 After walking up a gentle ascent about eight miles, we came to a 
 solitary hamlet, called Makaaka, containing four or five houses, in 
 which three or four families were residing. We entered one of them 
 to take some refreshment and rest after the fatigue of travelling in 
 the heat of the day. The people of the house, though poor, were hos- 
 pitable, and gave us cheerfully a few roots of taro out of their own 
 oven. 
 
 The house was large, and beneath one roof included their workshop, 
 kitchen, and sleeping-room, without any intervening partitions. 
 
 On one side two women were beating native cloth, and the men 
 were at work on a new canoe. In the same place were several larger 
 ones, one upwards of sixty feet long, and between two or three feet 
 deep, hollowed out of a single tree. The workmen told us they were
 
 160 
 
 making a pair of that size for Kaikiocva, guardian of the young prince 
 Kauikeouli, whose tenants they were. 
 
 Near the south end of the house, which was quite open, was their 
 fire-place, where a man was preparing a quantity of arum or taro for 
 the oven. The roots were oblong, from -six inches to a foot in length, 
 and three or four inches in diameter. The substance of the root is 
 somewhat like that of a potato, but more fibrous; and to the taste, 
 before dressed, is exceedingly pungent and acrid. 
 
 METHODS OF COOKING DESCRIBED. 
 
 The tender leaves of this plant are sometimes wrapped up in plan- 
 tain leaves, baked, and eaten by the natives; but in general the root 
 only is used as an article of food. 
 
 The oven was a hole in the earth, three or four feet in diameter, 
 and nearly a foot deep. A number of small stones were spread over 
 the bottom, a few dried leaves laid on them, and the necessary 
 quantity of sticks and firewood piled up, and covered over with small 
 stones. The dry leaves were then kindled, and while the stones 
 were heating, the man scraped off the skin or rind of the taro with 
 a shell, and split the roots into two or three pieces. 
 
 When the stones were red-hot, they were spread out with a stick, 
 the remaining fire-brands taken away; and when the dust and ashes, 
 on the stones at the bottom, had been brushed off with a green bough, 
 the taro, wrapped in leaves, was laid on them till the oven was full, 
 when a few more leaves were spread on the taro; hot stones were 
 then placed on these leaves, and a covering six inches thick of leaves 
 and earth spread over the whole. In this state the taro remained to 
 steam or bake about half an hour, when they opened their oven, and 
 took out as many roots as were needed. 
 
 The arum or taro is an excellent vegetable, boiled as we are accus- 
 tomed to dress potatoes, but is not so farinaceous and pleasant as 
 when baked in a native oven. 
 
 Sometimes the natives broil their food on heated stones, or roast it 
 before their fire; but these ovens are most generally used for cooking 
 their several kinds of victuals. Potatoes and yams are dressed in the 
 same manner as the taro; but pigs, dogs, fish, and birds, are wrapped 
 in green leaves before they are put into the oven. 
 
 HOSPITALITY OF NATIVES. 
 
 "We saw some Muscovy ducks feeding in the garden, and offered to 
 purchase one; but they said they were rearing them for their landlord, 
 and could not part with any; they furnished us, however, with a 
 fowl, with which, and some biscuit we had with us, we made a toler- 
 able meal.
 
 161 
 
 We stopped about two hours, during which, we did not omit to 
 speak to the inhabitants respecting the Saviour. 
 
 We also offered to remunerate them for what we had received, but 
 they refused to take any thing. We therefore made the children a 
 present of a looking-glass and a few strings of beads, and then 
 resumed our journey over the same verdant country, frequently 
 crossing small valleys and water-courses, which, however, were all 
 dry. 
 
 The surface of the country was covered with a light yellow soil, 
 and clothed with tall grass, but the sides and bed of every water- 
 course we passed were composed of volcanic rock, a kind of basalt, 
 or dark grey compact lava, with fine grains of olivin, the different 
 strata lying in a direction gently inclined towards the sea. 
 
 KAALAALA AND KAPAPALA THICKLY SETTLED. 
 
 The land, though very good, was but partially cultivated, till we 
 came to Kaaraara, where we passed through large fields of taro and 
 potatoes, with sugar-cane and plantains growing very luxuriantly. 
 
 Maruae, the chief of the place, came down to the road side as we 
 passed by, and asked us to stay for the night at his house; but as 
 Kapapala was only four miles distant, we thought we could reach it 
 before dark, and therefore thanked him, and proposed to walk on. 
 As our boys were tired with their bundles, we asked him to allow a 
 man to carry them to Kapapala. He immediately ordered one to go 
 with us, and we passed on through a continued succession of planta- 
 tions, in a high state of cultivation. 
 
 VOLCANIC MANIFESTATION. 
 
 During the whole of the time we had been travelling on the high 
 land, we had perceived a number of columns of smoke and vapour, 
 rising at a considerable distance, and also one large steady column, 
 that seemed little affected by the wind; and this, we were informed, 
 arose from the great crater at Kirauea. The smaller columns were 
 emitted at irregular intervals of several seconds between each. On 
 inquiry we learned, that they arose from deep chasms in the earth, 
 and were accompanied by a hot and sulphureous vapour. 
 
 CONDITIONS AT KAPAPALA. 
 
 About seven o'clock in the evening we reached Kapapala, and 
 directed our weary steps to the house of Tapuahi, the head man. He 
 kindly bade us welcome, spread a mat in the front of his house for 
 us to sit down upon, and brought us a most agreeable beverage, a 
 calabash full of good cool fresh water. 
 
 The thermometer at sun-set stood at 70°, and we sat for some 
 
 11
 
 162 
 
 time talking with the people around us. The air from the mountains, 
 however, soon began to be keen. We then went into the house, and, 
 although we were in a tropical climate, in the month of July, we 
 found a fire very comfortable. It was kindled in a hollow place in 
 the centre of the earthen floor, surrounded by large square stones, 
 and gave both light and heat. But as there was only one aperture, 
 which, as in the houses of the ancient Britons, answered the triple 
 purpose of a door, a window, and a chimney, the smoke was sometimes 
 rather troublesome. 
 
 A PIG MEMBER OF THE FAMILY. 
 
 Few of the Hawaiian females are without some favourite animal. 
 It is usually a dog. Here, however, we observed a species of pet 
 that we had not seen before. It was a curly-tailed pig, about a year 
 and a half old, three or four feet long, and apparently well fed. He 
 belonged to two sisters of our host, who formed part of his family, 
 and joined the social circle around the evening hearth. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Kapapala we noticed a variety of the 
 paper-mulberry, somewhat different from that generally cultivated, 
 which grew spontaneously, and appeared indigenous. Large quanti- 
 ties of the dried bark of this plant, tied up in bundles, like hemp or 
 flax, were piled up in the house where we lodged. It is used in manu- 
 facturing a kind of tapa, called mamake, prized throughout the islands 
 on account of its strength and durability. 
 
 About eight o'clock a pig was baked, and some taro prepared by 
 our host for supper. At our particular request he was induced to 
 partake of it, though contrary to the etiquette of his country. 
 
 When we had finished, Tapuahi and his household assembled for 
 family worship, after which we retired to rest. We had travelled 
 more than twenty miles, and two of our number had since the morn- 
 ing spoken four times to the people. 
 
 Soon after sunrise on the 31st, the people of the place were col- 
 lected around our house. I requested them to sit down in front, and, 
 after singing a hymn, preached to them a short and plain discourse. 
 Mr. Thurston concluded the service with prayer. The people remained 
 in the place for nearly an hour, and made many inquiries. 
 
 VOLCANIC ACTIVITY AT PONAHOHOA. 
 
 After breakfast three of our number went to visit the places where 
 we had seen the columns of smoke rising yesterday. After travelling 
 about five miles, over a country fertile and generally cultivated, we 
 came to Ponahohoa. It was a bed of ancient lava, the surface of 
 which was decomposed; and in many places shrubs and trees had 
 grown to a considerable height.
 
 164 
 
 As we approached the places whence the smoke issued, we passed 
 over a number of fissures and deep chasms, from two inches to six 
 feet in width. 
 
 The whole mass of rocks had evidently been rent by some violent 
 convulsion of the earth, at no very distant period; and when we 
 came in sight of the ascending columns of smoke and vapour, we 
 beheld immediately before us a valley, or hollow, about half a mile 
 across, formed by the sinking of the whole surface of ancient lava, 
 to a depth of fifty feet below its original level. 
 
 Its superficies was intersected by fissures in every direction; and 
 along the centre of the hollow, two large chasms, of irregular form 
 and breadth, were seen stretching from the mountain towards the 
 sea in a south-and-by-west direction, and extending either way as 
 far as the eye could reach. 
 
 The principal chasm was in some places so narrow that we could 
 step over it, but in others it was ten or twelve feet across. It was 
 from these wider portions that the smoke and vapours arose. 
 
 As we descended into this valley, the ground sounded hollow, and 
 in several places the lava cracked under our feet. Towards the centre 
 it was so hot that we could not stand more than a minute in the 
 same place. 
 
 THE GUIDE FEARS PELE. 
 
 As we drew near one of the apertures that emitted smoke and 
 vapour, our guide stopped, and tried to dissuade us from proceeding 
 any further, assuring us he durst not venture nearer for fear of Pele, 
 the deity of the volcanoes. 
 
 We told him there was no Pele of which he need be afraid; but 
 that if he did not wish to accompany us, he might go back to the 
 bushes at the edge of the valley, and await our return. He imme- 
 diately retraced his steps, and we proceeded on, passing as near some 
 of the smoking fissures, as the heat and sulphureous vapour rising 
 from them would admit. 
 
 We looked down into several, but it was only in three or four that 
 we could see any bottom. The depth of these appeared to be about 
 fifty or sixty feet, and the bottoms were composed of loose fragments 
 of rocks and large stones, that had fallen in from the top or sides 
 of the chasm. 
 
 Most of them appeared to be red-hot; and we thought we saw 
 flames in one, but the smoke was generally so dense, and the heat so 
 great, that we could not look long, nor see very distinctly the bot- 
 tom of any of them. 
 
 DETAILS OF ERUPTIOX. 
 
 Our legs, hands, and faces, were nearly scorched by the heat. 
 Into one of the small fissures we put our thermometer, which had
 
 165 
 
 stood at 84°; it instantly rose to 118°, and, probably, would have 
 risen much higher, could we have held it longer there. 
 
 After walking along the middle of the hollow for nearly a mile, we 
 came to a place where the chasm was about three feet across, at its 
 upper edge, though apparently much wider below, and about forty 
 feet in length; and from which a large quantity of lava had been re- 
 cently vomited. It had been thrown in detached semifluid pieces to a 
 considerable distance in every direction, and from both sides of the 
 opening had flowed down in a number of smaller streams. 
 
 The appearance of the tufts of long grass through which it had 
 run; the scorched leaves still remaining on one side of a tree, while 
 the other side was reduced to charcoal, and the strings of lava hang- 
 ing from some of the branches like stalactites; together with the 
 fresh appearance of the shrubs, partially overflowed, and broken 
 down, — convinced us the lava had been thrown out only a few days 
 before. It was highly scoriaceous, of a different kind from the 
 ancient bed of which the whole valley was composed, being of a jet- 
 black colour, and bright variegated lustre, brittle, and porous; while 
 the ancient lava was of a gray or reddish colour, compact, and broken 
 with difficulty. 
 
 VOLUMES OF SMOKE AND VAPOR. 
 
 We found the heat to vary considerably in different parts of the 
 surface; and at one of the places, where a quantity of lava had 
 been thrown out, and from which a volume of smoke continually 
 issued, we could stand several minutes together, without inconven- 
 ience. We at first attributed this to the subterranean fires having 
 become extinct beneath, but the greater thickness of the crust of 
 ancient lava, at that place, afterwards appeared to us the most prob- 
 able cause, as the volumes of smoke and vapour which constantly 
 ascended, indicated the vigorous action of fire below. 
 
 I took a drawing of this place; and when we had collected as many 
 specimens of the lava as we could conveniently carry back to our 
 lodgings, we returned to our guide, whom we found waiting at the 
 spot where we first entered the hollow. 
 
 DATE OP PONAHOAHOA ERUPTION. 
 
 As he was a resident in Kapapala, and owned a small garden near, 
 we endeavoured to learn from him something of the history of the 
 phenomenon before us. 
 
 He told us that the two large chasms were formed about eleven 
 moons ago; that nothing else had been visible till nearly two moons 
 back, when a slight earthquake was experienced at Kapapala, and the 
 next time he came by, the ground had fallen in, forming the hollow 
 that we saw, which also appeared full of fissures.
 
 166 
 
 About three weeks ago, as he was going to his plantation, he said, 
 he saw a small flame issuing from the apertures, and a quantity of 
 smoking lava all around; the branches of the trees that stood near 
 were also broken and burnt, and several of them still smoking. 
 
 VOLCANO AT PONAHOAHOA, KAU. 
 
 Having gratified our curiosity, we prepared to leave this infant vol- 
 cano, for such to us it appeared. Although the surface, at least, of the 
 whole country around had a volcanic origin, it seems to have remained 
 undisturbed a number of years, perhaps ages. The lava is decom- 
 posed, frequently a foot in depth, and is mingled with a prolific soil, 
 fertile in vegetation, and profitable to its proprietors; and we felt a 
 sort of melancholy interest in witnessing the first exhibitions of re- 
 turning action after so long a repose in this mighty agent, whose 
 irresistible energies will, probably, at no very remote period, spread 
 desolation over a district now smiling in verdure, repaying the toils, 
 and gladdening the heart, of the industrious cultivator. 
 
 Ponahohoa, the place we had visited, is situated in the district of 
 Kapapala, in the north-east part of the division of Kau, and is, as near 
 as we could judge, from ten to twelve miles from the sea-shore, and 
 about twenty miles from the great volcano at the foot of Mouna Roa. 
 
 The road by which we returned lay through a number of fields of 
 mountain taro, which appears to be cultivated here more extensively 
 than the sweet potato. 
 
 USES OF THE WILIWILI TREE. 
 
 On the edge of one of these fields we sat down in the grass to rest, 
 beneath a clump of beautiful trees, the Erythrina corollodendrum; 
 a tree we frequently met with in the mountains, sometimes covered 
 with beautiful flowers, and always affording an agreeable shade. It 
 is called by the natives oviriviri, or viriviri. Its branches are much 
 used in erecting fences, on account of the readiness with which they 
 take root when planted in the ground. The wood is also employed 
 for making the carved stools placed under their canoes, when drawn 
 on the beach, or laid up in their houses. The best kind of surf -boards 
 are also made of this wood, which is lighter than any other the natives 
 possess. 
 
 On our way back, we also passed several hills, whose broad base 
 and irregular tops shewed them originally to have been craters. They 
 must be very ancient, as they were covered with shrubs and trees. 
 From them must have come the then molten, but now indurated, flood 
 over which we were travelling.
 
 167 
 
 OTHER VOLCANIC ACTIVITY. 
 
 Several small columns of smoke were seen rising near them from 
 fissures recently made. 
 
 About two p. m. we reached our lodgings, and dismissed the man 
 who had shewed us the way, with a remuneration for his trouble. 
 
 Mr. Harwood, who had arrived during our absence, informed us, 
 that on reaching Kaaraara last night, he took up his lodging with 
 Maruae, the chief of the place, by whom he had been hospitably enter- 
 tained. Mauae, and his two companions, who had also slept at Kaara- 
 ara, arrived with him, but nothing had been heard of Makoa, or our 
 baggage; and we began to suspect he would not follow us, even so 
 far as he had promised. 
 
 TRAVELLERS FROM KEALAKEKUA. 
 
 Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon of the 31st of 
 July, a party of travellers, consisting of four men and a woman, 
 entered the house in which we were stopping, and sat down to rest. 
 We soon learned that they belonged to Kearakomo, in Puna, whither 
 they were going, by a road that also led to the great volcano; and 
 having before experienced the great inconvenience of travelling with- 
 out a guide over a country of which we were entirely ignorant, it 
 appeared desirable that some of us at least should go with them. "We 
 expressed our intention to accompany them. They were pleased, and 
 told us they would wait till we were ready. 
 
 No tidings had yet been received of Makoa, or our baggage, our 
 biscuit was nearly expended, and being without even a change of 
 linen, we did not think it expedient to leave this place altogether 
 before our baggage should arrive, especially as we knew it would be 
 several days before we should reach any of the villages on the shores 
 of Puna. Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich, therefore, thought best to 
 wait at least another day, while the rest of us should proceed with 
 the travellers. 
 
 Having made this arrangement, we immediately packed up our pro- 
 visions, which were but a scanty supply, and filled our canteens with 
 water. The natives filled their calabashes; and about five p. m. 
 Messrs. Thurston, Harwood, and myself, left Kapapala, in company 
 with the people of Puna. 
 
 A CAVE RESIDENCE AT KAPUAIII. 
 
 We proceeded a short distance to a place called Kapuahi, (the 
 hearth of fire,) where we stopped at the entrance of a large cave, 
 arched over by a thick crust of ancient lava. Here two or three 
 families, consisting of men, women, and children, were residing. Its 
 interior was rather dark, as the entrance was the only aperture that
 
 168 
 
 admitted any light; yet the inhabitants of this dreary abode seemed 
 cheerful and contented, and perhaps felt themselves favoured by Pele, 
 in having a permanent abode furnished free of labour or expense. 
 
 The women were employed in making mats, and beating tapa; 
 the children were playing among the fragments of lava on the out- 
 side, and the men were preparing an oven in which to bake some taro. 
 We wished to purchase a few fowls of them, but they had none to 
 dispose of. They gave us, however, two or three roots of taro, and a 
 draught of excellent spring water. Bidding them farewell, we pur- 
 sued our way over a beautiful country, gradually sloping towards the 
 right, and meeting the ocean, at a distance of from ten to fifteen 
 miles, and rising more abruptly on the left, where it was crowned 
 with the woods, which extended like a vast belt round the base of the 
 greater part of Mouna Koa. 
 
 A CAVE LODGING AT KEAPUANA. 
 
 After travelling between three and four miles, we reached Kea- 
 puana, a large cavern, frequently used as a lodging-place by weary 
 or benighted travellers. The sun was nearly down, and the guides 
 proposed to halt for the night in the cave, rather than proceed any 
 further, and sleep in the open air. The proposal was agreed to, and 
 when we had gather a quantity of fern leaves and grass for our bed, 
 and collected some fuel for the evening fire, we descended about four- 
 teen feet to the mouth of the cavern, which was probably formed in 
 the same manner as those we had explored in the vicinity of Kairua. 
 The entrance, which was eight feet wide and five high, was formed 
 by an arch of ancient lava, several feet in thickness. 
 
 The interior of the cavern was about fifty feet square, and the arch 
 that covered it, ten feet high. There was an aperture at the northern 
 end, about three feet in diameter, occasioned by the falling in of the 
 lava, which admitted a current of keen mountain air through the 
 whole of the night. 
 
 While we were clearing out the small stones between some of the 
 blocks of lava that lay scattered around, a large fire was kindled near 
 the entrance, which, throwing its glimmering light on the dark vol- 
 canic sides of the cavern, and illuminating one side of the huge masses 
 of lava, exhibited to our view the strange features of our apartment, 
 which resembled, in no small degree, scenes described in tales of 
 romance. 
 
 When we had cleared a sufficient space, we spread our beds of fern- 
 leaves and grass on the rough floor of the cavern, and then mingled 
 with the cheerful circle who were sitting round the fire. We sung a 
 hymn in the native language, and afterwards committed ourselves and 
 fellow-travellers to the kind keeping of Him, whose wakeful eye and 
 watchful care no dark cavern can exclude.
 
 169 
 
 FIRST VIEW OF KILAUEA'S FIRES. 
 
 While the natives were sitting round the fire, Mr. Thurston and I 
 ascended to the upper region, and walked to a rising ground at a 
 small distance from the mouth of the cavern, to try if we could dis- 
 cern the light of the volcano. The wind blew fresh from the moun- 
 tains; the noise of the rolling surf, to which we had been accustomed 
 on the shore, was not heard; and the stillness of the night was only- 
 disturbed by the chirping of the insects in the grass. The sky was 
 clear, except in the eastern horizon, where a few light clouds arose, 
 and slowly floated across the expanse of heaven. 
 
 On looking towards the north-east, we saw a broad column of light 
 rising to a considerable elevation in the air, and immediately above it 
 some bright clouds, or thin vapours, beautifully tinged with red on 
 the under side. We had no doubt that the column of light arose 
 from the large crater, and that its fires illuminated the surrounding 
 atmosphere. The fleecy clouds generally passed over the luminous 
 column in a south-east direction. As they approached it, the side 
 towards the place where we stood became generally bright; after- 
 wards the under edge only reflected the volcanic fire; and in a little 
 time each cloud passed entirely away, and was succeeded by another. 
 
 We remained some time to observe the beautiful prenomenon occa- 
 sioned by the reflection of the volcanic fire, and the more magnificent 
 spectacle presented by the multitude and brilliancy of the heavenly 
 bodies. The season was solemn and delightful. 
 
 ON THE ROAD TO THE VOLCANO. 
 
 Refreshed by a comfortable night 's sleep, we arose before day- 
 light on the morning of the first of August, and after stirring up 
 the embers of our fire, rendered, with grateful hearts, our morning 
 tribute of praise to our almighty Preserver. 
 
 As the day began to dawn, we tied on our sandals, ascended from 
 the subterraneous dormitory, and pursued our journey, directing our 
 course towards the column of smoke, which bore E. N. E. from the 
 cavern. 
 
 The path for several miles lay through a most fertile tract of coun- 
 try, covered with bushes, or tall grass and fern, frequently from three 
 to five feet high, and so heavily laden with dew, that before we had 
 passed it, we were as completely wet as if we had walked through 
 a river. 
 
 The morning air was cool, the singing of birds enlivened the woods, 
 and we travelled along in Indian file nearly four miles an hour, al- 
 though most of the natives carried heavy burdens, which were tied 
 on their backs with small bands over their shoulders, in the same 
 manner that a soldier fastens on his knapsack. Having also ourselves
 
 170 
 
 a small leather bag containing a bible, inkstand, note-book, com- 
 pass, &c. suspended from one shoulder, a canteen of water from the 
 other, and sometimes a light port-folio, or papers, with specimens of 
 plants besides, our whole party appeared, in this respect at least, 
 somewhat en militaire. 
 
 STOPPED BY A CHASM. 
 
 After travelling a short distance over the open country, we came 
 to a small wood, into which we had not penetrated far, before all 
 traces of a path entirely disappeared. We kept on some time, but 
 were soon brought to a stand by a deep chasm, over which we saw no 
 means of passing. Here the natives ran about in every direction 
 searching for marks of footsteps, just as a dog runs to and fro when 
 he has lost the track of his master. 
 
 After searching about half an hour, they discovered a path, which 
 led some distance to the southward, in order to avoid the deep chasm 
 in the lava. 
 
 SUGAR CANE REFRESHMENT. 
 
 Near the place where we crossed over, there was an extensive 
 cavern. The natives sat down on the top of the arch by which it was 
 formed, and began eating their sugar-cane, a portable kind of pro- 
 vision usually carried on their journeys, while we explored the cavern 
 in hopes of finding fresh water. In several places drops of water, 
 beautifully clear, constantly filtered through the vaulted arch, and 
 fell into calabashes placed underneath to receive it. Unfortunately 
 for us, these were all nearly empty. Probably some thirsty traveller 
 had been there but a short time before. 
 
 A SANDY DESERT. 
 
 Leaving the wood, we entered a waste of dry sand, about four miles 
 across. The travelling over it was extremely fatiguing, as we sunk in 
 to our ancles at every step. The sand was of a dark olive colour, fine 
 and sparkling, parts of it adhering readily to the magnet, and being 
 raised up in heaps in every direction, presented a surface resembling, 
 colour excepted, that of drifted snow. 
 
 It was undoubtedly volcanic; but whether thrown out of any of the 
 adjacent craters in its present form, or made up of small particles of 
 decomposed lava, and the crystalline olivin we had observed so abun- 
 dant in the lava of the southern shore, and drifted by the constant 
 trade-wind from the vast tract of lava to the eastward, we could not 
 determine. 
 
 When we had nearly passed through it, we sat down on a heap of 
 lava to rest and refresh ourselves, having taken nothing since the 
 preceding noon. About ten o'clock, Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich
 
 171 
 
 reached the place where we were sitting. They had heard by some 
 travellers, that two or three days would elapse before Makoa would 
 overtake them, and deeming it inexpedient to wait so long, had pro- 
 cured a guide, and early this morning set out from Kapapala to fol- 
 low the rest of the party. 
 
 VOLCANIC FORMATIONS DESCRIBED. 
 
 Having refreshed ourselves, we resumed our journey, taking a north- 
 erly direction towards the columns of smoke, which we could now dis- 
 tinctly perceive. Our way lay over a wide waste of ancient lava, of a 
 black colour, compact and heavy, with a shining vitreous surface, 
 sometimes entirely covered with obsidian, and frequently thrown up, 
 by the expansive force of vapour or heated air, into conical mounds, 
 from six to twelve feet high, which were, probably, by the same power 
 rent into a number of pieces, from the apex to the base. The hollows 
 between the mounds and long ridges were filled with volcanic sand, 
 and fine particles of olivin, or decomposed lava. 
 
 This vast tract of lava resembled in appearance an inland sea, 
 bounded by distant mountains. Once it had certainly been in a fluid 
 state, but appeared as if it had become suddenly petrified, or turned 
 into a glassy stone, while its agitated billows were rolling to and fro. 
 
 Not only were the large swells and hollows distinctly marked, but 
 in many places the surface of these billows was covered by a smaller 
 ripple, like that observed on the surface of the sea at the first spring- 
 ing up of a breeze, or the passing currents of air which produce what 
 the sailors call a cat 's-paw. The billows may have been raised by 
 the force which elevated the mounds or hills, but they look as if the 
 whole mass, extending several miles, had, when in a state of perfect 
 fusion, been agitated with a violent undulating or heaving motion. 
 
 A HARD ROAD. 
 
 The sun had now risen in his strength, and his bright rays, reflected 
 from the sparkling sand, and undulated surface of the vitreous lava, 
 dazzled our sight and caused considerable pain, particularly as the 
 trade-wind blew fresh in our faces, and continually drove into our 
 eyes particles of sand. 
 
 This part of our journey was unusually laborious, not only from 
 the heat of the sun and the reflection from the lava, but also from the 
 unevenness of its surface, which obliged us constantly to tread on an 
 inclined plane, in some places as smooth and almost as slippery as 
 glass, where the greatest caution was necessary to avoid a fall. Fre- 
 quently we chose to walk along on the ridge of a billow of lava, 
 though considerably circuitous, rather than pass up and down its 
 polished sides. Taking the trough, or hollow between the waves, was
 
 172 
 
 found safer, but much more fatiguing, as we sunk every step ancle- 
 deep into the sand. 
 
 The natives ran along the ridges, stepping like goats from one 
 ridge to another. They, however, occasionally descended into the 
 hollows, and made several marks with their feet in the sand at short 
 distances, for the direction of two or three native boys with our pro- 
 visions, and some of their companions, who had fallen behind early in 
 the morning, not being able to keep up with the foremost party. 
 
 CRATERS AND ACTIVE VOLCANIC CRACKS. 
 
 Between eleven and twelve we passed a number of conical hills on 
 our right, which the natives informed us were craters. A quantity of 
 sand was collected round their base, but whether thrown out by them, 
 or drifted thither by the wind, they could not inform us. 
 
 In their vicinity we also passed several deep chasms, from which, 
 in a number of places, small columns of vapour arose, at frequent 
 and irregular intervals. They appeared to proceed from Kirauea, the 
 great volcano, and extended towards the sea in a south-east direction. 
 Probably they are connected with Ponahohoa, and may mark the 
 course of a vast subterraneous channel leading from the volcano to 
 the shore. The surface of the lava on both sides was heated, and the 
 vapour had a strong sulphureous smell. 
 
 DEPOSITS OP PUMACE LAVA. 
 
 We continued our way beneath the scorching rays of a vertical sun 
 till about noon, when we reached a solitary tree growing in a bed of 
 sand, spreading its roots among the crevices of the rocks, and casting 
 its grateful shade on the barren lava. Here we threw ourselves down 
 on the sand and fragments of lava, stretched out our weary limbs, and 
 drank the little water left in our canteens. 
 
 In every direction we observed a number of pieces of spumous lava, 
 of an olive colour, extremely cellular, and as light as sponge. They 
 appeared to have been drifted by the wind into the hollows which they 
 occupied. 
 
 The high bluff rocks on the north-west side of the volcano were dis- 
 tinctly seen; the smoke and vapours driven past us, and the scent of 
 the fumes of sulphur, which, as we approached from the leeward, we 
 had perceived ever since the wind sprung up becoming very strong, 
 indicated our proximity to Kirauea. 
 
 EATING OHELO BERRIES. 
 
 Impatient to view it we arose, after resting atjout half an hour, and 
 pursued our journey. In the way we saw a number of low bushes 
 bearing beautiful red and yellow berries in clusters, each berry being
 
 173 
 
 about the size and shape of a large currant. The bushes on which 
 they grew were generally low, seldom reaching two feet in height; 
 the branches small and clear, leaves alternate, obtuse with a point, 
 and serrated; the flower was monopetalous, and, on being examined, 
 determined the plant to belong to the class decandria, and order 
 monogynia. 
 
 The native name of the plant is ohelo. The berries looked tempting 
 to persons experiencing both hunger and thirst, and we eagerly 
 plucked and ate all that came in our way. They are juicy, but rather 
 insipid to the taste. 
 
 NATIVE FEARS OF PELE. 
 
 As soon as the natives perceived us eating them, they called out 
 aloud, and begged us to desist, saying we were now within the pre- 
 cincts of Pele 's dominions, to whom they belonged, and by whom 
 they were rahuiia, (prohibited,) until some had been offered to her, 
 and permission to eat them asked. We told them we were sorry they 
 should feel uneasy on this account, — that we acknowledged Jehovah 
 as the only divine proprietor of the fruits of the earth, and felt 
 thankful to him for them, especially in our present circumstances. 
 
 Some of them then said, "We are afraid. We shall be overtaken 
 by some calamity before we leave this place." 
 
 We advised them to dismiss their fears, and eat with us, as we knew 
 they were thirsty and faint. They shook their heads, and perceiving 
 us determined to disregard their entreaties, walked along in silence. 
 
 KILAUEA DESCRIBED. 
 
 We travelled on, regretting that the natives should indulge notions 
 so superstitious, but clearing every ohelo bush that grew near our 
 path, till about two p. m. when the Crater of Kirauea suddenly burst 
 upon our view. 
 
 We expected to have seen a mountain with a broad base and rough 
 indented sides, composed of loose slags or hardened streams of lava, 
 and whose summit would have presented a rugged wall of scoria, 
 forming the rim of a mighty caldron. But instead of this, we found 
 ourselves on the edge of a steep precipice, with a vast plain before us, 
 fifteen or sixteen miles in circumference, and sunk from 200 to 400 
 feet below its original level. 
 
 The surface of this plain was uneven, and strewed over with large 
 stones and volcanic rocks, and in the centre of it was the great crater, 
 at the distance of a mile and a half from the precipice on which we 
 were standing. 
 
 Our guides led us round towards the north end of the ridgo, in order 
 to find a place by which we might descend to the plain below.
 
 O ^ 
 
 o 2
 
 176 
 
 NATIVE TRIBUTE TO PELK. 
 
 As we passed along, we observed the natives, who had hitherto 
 refused to touch any of the ohelo berries, now gather several bunches, 
 and, after offering a part to Pele, eat them very freely. They did 
 not use much ceremony in their acknowledgment; but when they had 
 plucked a branch, containing several clusters of berries, they turned 
 their faces towards the place whence the greatest quantity of smoke 
 and vapour issued, and, breaking the branch they held in their hand 
 in two, they threw one part down the precipice, saying at the same 
 time, 
 
 "E Pele, eia ka ohelo 'au; e taumaha aku wau ia oe, e ai hoi au 
 tetahi." "Pele, here are your ohelos: I offer some to you, some I 
 also eat." 
 
 Several of them told us, as they turned round from the crater, that 
 after such acknowledgments they might eat the fruit with security. 
 
 We answered we were sorry to see them offering to an imaginary 
 deity the gifts of the true God; but hoped they would soon know 
 better, and acknowledge Jehovah alone in all the benefits they re- 
 ceived. 
 
 DESCENDING INTO KILAUEA. 
 
 We walked on to the north end of the ridge, where, the precipice 
 being less steep, a descent to the plain below seemed practicable. It 
 required, however, the greatest caution, as the stones and fragments 
 of rock frequently gave way under our feet, and rolled down from 
 above; but, with all our care, we did not reach the bottom without 
 several falls and slight bruises. 
 
 The steep which we had descended was formed of volcanic matter, 
 apparently a light red and gray kind of lava, vesicular, and lying in 
 horizontal strata, varying in thickness from one to forty feet. In a 
 small number of places the different strata of lava were also rent in 
 perpendicular or oblique directions, from the top to the bottom, either 
 by earthquakes, or other violent convulsions of the ground connected 
 with the action of the adjacent volcano. 
 
 ON THE EDGE OF THE PIT. 
 
 After walking some distance over the sunken plain, which in 
 several places sounded hollow under our feet, we at length came to 
 the edge of the great crater, where a spectacle, sublime and even 
 appalling, presented itself before us — 
 
 "We stopped, and trembled." 
 
 Astonishment and awe for some moments rendered us mute, and, 
 like statues, we stood fixed to the spot, with our eyes riveted on the 
 abyss below.
 
 177 
 
 Immediately before us yawned an immense gulf, in the form of a 
 crescent, about two miles in length, from north-east to south-west, 
 nearly a mile in width, and apparently 800 feet deep. 
 
 A FLOOD OF BURNING LAVA. 
 
 The bottom was covered with lava, and the south-west and northern 
 parts of it were one vast flood of burning matter, in a state of terrific 
 ebullition, rolling to and fro its "fiery surge" and flaming billows. 
 
 Fifty-one conical islands, of varied form and size, containing so 
 many craters, rose either round the edge or from the surface of the 
 burning lake. 
 
 Twenty-two constantly emitted columns of gray smoke, or pyramids 
 of brilliant flame; and several of these at the same time vomited from 
 their ignited mouths streams of lava, which rolled in blazing torrents 
 down their black indented sides into the boiling mass below. 
 
 The existence of these conical craters led us to conclude, that the 
 boiling caldron of lava before us did not form the focus of the vol- 
 cano; that this mass of melted lava was comparatively shallow; and 
 that the basin in which it was contained was separated, by a stratum 
 of solid matter, from the great volcanic abyss, which constantly poured 
 out its melted contents through these numerous craters into this upper 
 reservoir. 
 
 VAST COLUMNS OF VAPOR. 
 
 We were further inclined to this opinion, from the vast columns of 
 vapour continually ascending from the chasms in the vicinity of the 
 sulphur banks and pools of water, for they must have been produced 
 by other fire than that which caused the ebullition in the lava at the 
 bottom of the great crater; and also by noticing a number of small 
 craters, in vigorous action, situated high up the sides of the great 
 gulf, and apparently quite detached from it. 
 
 The streams of lava which they emitted rolled down into the lake, 
 and mingled with the melted mass there, which, though thrown up by 
 different apertures, had perhaps been originally fused in one vast 
 furnace. 
 
 800 FEET DOWN TO THE LAKE. 
 
 The sides of the gulf before us, although composed of different 
 strata of ancient lava, were perpendicular for about 400 feet, and 
 rose from a wide horizontal ledge of solid black lava of irregular 
 breadth, but extending completely round. 
 
 Beneath this ledge the sides sloped gradually towards the burning 
 
 lake, which was, as nearly as we could judge, .'500 or 400 feet lower. 
 
 as evident that the large cratei had been recently filled with 
 
 liquid lava up to this black ledge, and had, by some subterranean 
 
 12
 
 178 
 
 canal, emptied itself into the sea, or upon the low land on the shore; 
 and in all probability this evacuation had caused the inundation of 
 the Kapapala coast, which took place, as we afterwards learned, about 
 three weeks prior to our visit. 
 
 ROARING OF VAST FURNACE. 
 
 The gray, and in some places apparently calcined, sides of the great 
 crater before us; the fissures which intersected the surface of the 
 plain on which we were standing; the long banks of sulphur on the 
 opposite side of the abyss; the vigorous action of the numerous small 
 craters on its borders; the dense columns of vapour and smoke that 
 rose at the north and south end of the plain; together with the ridge 
 of steep rocks by which it was surrounded, rising probably in some 
 places 300 or 400 feet in perpendicular height, presented an immense 
 volcanic panorama, the effect of which was greatly augmented by the 
 constant roaring of the vast furnaces below. 
 
 After the first feelings of astonishment had subsided, we remained 
 a considerable time contemplating a scene, which it is impossible to 
 describe, and which filled us with wonder and admiration at the almost 
 overwhelming manifestation it affords of the power of that dread 
 Being who created the world, and who has declared that by fire he 
 will one day destroy it. We then walked along the west side of the 
 crater, and in half an hour reached the north end. 
 
 NATIVE FEARS OF PELE AGAIN. 
 
 While walking over the plain, which was covered with a thin layer 
 of what appeared like indurated sand, but which we afterwards found 
 to be decomposed lava, the natives requested us not to kaha, a heru 
 ka one, strike, scratch, or dig the sand, assuring us it would displease 
 Pele, and be followed by an irruption of lava, or other expression of 
 vengeance from this goddess of the volcano, of whose power and dis- 
 pleasure they had manifested the greatest apprehensions ever since 
 our approach to Kirauea. It appears singular that similar ideas 
 respecting the consequences of disturbing the earth in the vicinity of 
 volcanoes, should prevail here, as among the natives of the New 
 Hebrides. 
 
 SIMILAR SUPERSTITIONS AT NEW HEBRIDES. 
 
 Forster, in his account of a visit to a place somewhat resembling 
 this, in the island of Tanna, speaking of their making a hole, and 
 burying their thermometer, says, "The natives, who observed that we 
 stirred in the solfatarra, (as he called the places where the smoke 
 and vapour issued,) desired us to leave it, telling us it would take 
 fire, and resemble the volcano, which they called Assoor. They seemed
 
 179 
 
 to be extremely apprehensive of some mischance, and were very un- 
 easy as often as we made the least attempt to disturb the sulphurous 
 earth." — Forst. Voy. vol. ii. page 308. 
 
 FRESH WATER ENCOUNTERED. 
 
 At the north end of the crater we left the few provisions and little 
 baggage that we had, and went in search of water, which we had been 
 informed was to be found in the neighbourhood of a number of 
 columns of vapour, which we saw rising in a northerly direction. 
 About half a mile distant, we found two or three small pools of per- 
 fectly sweet, fresh water; a luxury which, notwithstanding the re- 
 ports of the natives, we did not expect to meet with in these regions 
 of fire. It proved a most grateful refreshment to us after travelling 
 not less than twenty miles over a barren thirsty desert. 
 
 These pools appeared great natural curiosities. The surface of the 
 ground in the vicinity was perceptibly warm, and rent by several deep 
 irregular chasms, from which steam and thick vapours continually 
 arose. In some places these chasms were two feet wide, and from 
 them a volume of steam ascended, which was immediately condensed 
 by the cool mountain air, and driven, like drizzling rain, into hollows 
 in the compact lava on the leeward side of the chasms. 
 
 The pools, which were six or eight feet from the chasms, were sur- 
 rounded and covered by flags, rushes, and tall grass. Nourished by the 
 moisture of the vapours, these plants flourished luxuriantly, and, in 
 their turn, sheltered the pools from the heat of the sun, and prevented 
 evaporation. 
 
 We expected to find the water warm, but in this we were also agree- 
 ably disappointed. 
 
 EXPLORING NORTH OP THE CRATER. 
 
 When we had quenched our thirst with water thus distilled by 
 nature, we directed the natives to build a hut in which we might pass 
 the night, in such a situation as to command a view of the burning 
 lava; and while they were thus employed, we prepared to examine 
 the many interesting objects around us. Mr. Bishop returned, with 
 a canteen of water, to meet Mr. Harwood, who had not yet come up. 
 
 Mr. Thurston visited the eastern side of the great crater, and I 
 went with Mr. Goodrich to examine some extensive beds of sulphur at 
 the north-east end. 
 
 After walking about three-quarters of a mile over a tract of decom- 
 posed lava, covered with ohelo bushes and ferns, wo came to a bank 
 about a hundred and fifty yards long, and in some places upwards of 
 thirty feet high, formed of sulphur, with a small proportion of red 
 clay or ochre. The ground was very hot; its surface rent by fissures;
 
 180 
 
 and we were sometimes completely enveloped in the thick vapours 
 that continually ascended from these cracks. 
 
 THE SULPHUR BANKS. 
 
 A number of apertures were visible along the whole extent of the 
 bank of sulphur; smoke and vapours arose from these fissures also; 
 and the heat of the sulphur around them was more intense than in 
 any other part. Their edges were fringed with fine crystals, in various 
 combinations, like what are called flowers of sulphur. 
 
 Wo climbed about half way up the bank, and endeavoured to break 
 off some parts of the crust, but soon found it too hot to be handled. 
 However, by means of our walking sticks, we detached some curious 
 specimens. Those procured near the surface were crystallized in 
 beautiful acicular prisms, of a light yellow colour; while those found 
 three or four inches deep in the bank, were of an orange yellow, 
 generally in single or double tetrahedral pyramids, and full an inch 
 in length. 
 
 A singular hissing and cracking noise was heard among the crystals, 
 whenever the outside crust of the sulphur was broken and the atmos- 
 pheric air admitted. The same noise was produced among the frag- 
 ments broken off, until they were quite cold. The adjacent stones and 
 pieces of clay were frequently incrusted, either with sulphate of 
 ammonia, or volcanic sal ammoniac. Considerable quantities were 
 also found in the crevices of some of the neighbouring rocks, which 
 were much more pungent than that exposed to the air. 
 
 Along the bottom of the sulphur bank we found a number of 
 pieces of tufa, or clay-stone, which appeared to have been fused, ex- 
 tremely light and cellular. It seemed as if sulphur, or some other 
 inflammable substance, had formerly occupied the cells in these stones. 
 
 A thick fog now came over, which, being followed by a shower 
 of rain, obliged us to leave this interesting laboratory of nature, and 
 return to our companions. 
 
 On the eastern side of the crater, we saw banks of sulphur less 
 pure, but apparently more extensive, than those we had visited; but 
 their distance from us, and the unfavourable state of the weather, 
 prevented our examining them. 
 
 FLOCKS OF WILD GEESE. 
 
 On our way to the sulphur banks, we saw two flocks of wild geese, 
 which came down from the mountains, and settled among the ohelo 
 bushes, near the pools of water. They were smaller than the common 
 goose, had brown necks, and their wings were tipped with the same 
 colour. The natives informed us there were vast flocks in the interior, 
 although they were never seen near the sea.
 
 181 
 
 Just as the sun was setting we reached the place where we had left 
 our baggage, and found Messrs. Bishop and Harwood sitting near the 
 spot, where the natives, with a few green branches of trees, some 
 fern leaves, and rushes, had erected a hut. 
 
 MORE SUPERSTITIOUS FEARS OF PELE. 
 
 "We were none of us pleased with the site which they had chosen. 
 It was at the north-east end of the crater, on a pile of rocks over- 
 hanging the abyss below, and actually within four feet of the 
 precipice. When we expressed our disapprobation, they said it was 
 the only place where we might expect to pass the night undisturbed 
 by Pele, and secure from earthquake and other calamity, being the 
 place in which alone Pele allowed travellers to build a hut. 
 
 We told them it was unnecessarily near, and, being also unsafe, we 
 wished to remove. 
 
 They answered, that as it was within the limits prescribed by Pele 
 for safe lodging, they should be unwilling to sleep any where else, 
 and had not time to build another hut for us. 
 
 We then directed them to collect a quantity of fire-wood, as we 
 expected the night would be cold, although the thermometer then 
 stood at 69°. We were the more anxious to have the fuel collected 
 before the shades of night should close upon us, as travelling in some 
 places was extremely dangerous. 
 
 DANGEROUS GROUND UNDERFOOT. 
 
 The ground sounded hollow in every direction, frequently cracked, 
 and, in two instances, actually gave way while we were passing over 
 it. Mr. Bishop was approaching the hut, when the lava suddenly 
 broke under him. He instantly threw himself forward, and fell flat 
 on his face over a part that was more solid. 
 
 A boy, who followed me with a basket to the sulphur banks, and 
 walked about a yard behind Mr. Goodrich and myself, also fell in. 
 There was no crack in the surface of the lava over which he was 
 walking, neither did it bend under his weight, but broke suddenly, 
 when he sunk in up to his middle. His legs and thighs were con- 
 siderably bruised, but providentially he escaped without any other 
 injury. 
 
 The lava in both places was about two inches in thickness, and 
 broke short, leaving the aperture regular and defined, without even 
 cracking the adjoining parts. On looking into the holes, we could see 
 no bottom, but on both sides, at a short distance from the aperture, 
 the lava was solid, and they appeared to have fallen into a narrow 
 chasm covered over by a thin crust of lava, already in a state of de- 
 composition.
 
 182 
 
 MR. THURSTON'S ADVENTURE. 
 
 When night came on, we kindled a good fire, and prepared our frugal 
 supper. Mr. Thurston, however, had not yet returned, and, as the 
 darkness of the night increased, we began to feel anxious for his 
 safety. The wind came down from the~ mountains in violent gusts, 
 dark clouds lowered over us, and a thick fog enveloped every object; 
 even the fires of the volcano were but indistinctly seen. 
 
 The darkness of the night advanced, but no tidings reached us of 
 Mr. Thurston. About seven o'clock we sent out the natives with 
 torches and firebrands, to search for him. They went as far as they 
 durst, hallooing along the border of the crater, till their lights were 
 extinguished, when they returned, without having seen or heard any 
 thing of him. We now increased our fire, hoping it might serve as a 
 beacon to direct him to our hut. Eight o'clock came, and he did not 
 appear. 
 
 We began seriously to fear that he had fallen into the crater itself, 
 or some of the deep and rugged chasms by which it was surrounded. 
 A native, who accompanied Mr. Goodrich on a subsequent visit to the 
 volcano, fell into one of these chasms; he was severely bruised by the 
 fall, and could only be extricated from his perilous situation by a rope 
 lowered down from the surface. In this state of painful suspense 
 we remained till nearly half -past eight, when we were happily relieved 
 by his sudden appearance. He had descended, and walked along the 
 dark ledge of lava on the east side of the crater, till a chasm obliged 
 him to ascend. Having with difficulty reached the top, he travelled 
 along the southern and western sides, till the light of our fire directed 
 him to our encampment. The extent of the crater, the unevenness of 
 the path, the numerous fissures and rugged surface of the lava, and 
 the darkness of the night, had prevented his earlier arrival. 
 
 A STRENUOUS CAMP. 
 
 We now partook with cheerfulness of our evening repast, and after- 
 wards, amidst the whistling of the winds around, and the roaring of 
 the furnace beneath, rendered our evening sacrifice of praise, and com- 
 mitted ourselves to the secure protection of our God. We then spread 
 our mats on the ground, but as we were all wet through with the rain, 
 against which our hut was but an indifferent shelter, we preferred to 
 sit or stand round the fire, rather than lie down on the ground. 
 
 THE VOLCANO AT NIGHT. 
 
 Between nine and ten, the dark clouds and heavy fog, that since 
 the setting of the sun had hung over the volcano, gradually cleared 
 away, and the fires of Kirauea, darting their fierce light athwart the
 
 183 
 
 midnight gloom, unfolded a sight terrible and sublime beyond all we 
 had yet seen. 
 
 The agitated mass of liquid lava, like a flood of melted metal, raged 
 with tumultuous whirl. The lively flame that danced over its un- 
 dulating surface, tinged with sulphureous blue, or glowing with 
 mineral red, cast a broad glare of dazzling light on the indented sides 
 of the insulated craters, whose roaring mouths, amidst rising flames, 
 and eddying streams of fire, shot up, at frequent intervals, with very 
 loud detonations, spherical masses of fusing lava, or bright ignited 
 stones. 
 
 The dark bold outline of the perpendicular and jutting rocks around, 
 formed a striking contrast with the luminous lake below, whose vivid 
 rays, thrown on the rugged promontories, and reflected by the over- 
 hanging clouds, combined to complete the awful grandeur of the 
 imposing scene. 
 
 A MAGNIFICENT PHENOMENON. 
 
 We sat gazing at the magnificent phenomena for several hours, 
 when we laid ourselves down on our mats, in order to observe more 
 leisurely their varying aspect; for, although we had travelled up- 
 wards of twenty miles since the morning, and were both weary and 
 cold, we felt but little disposition to sleep. This disinclination was 
 probably increased by our proximity to the yawning gulf, and our 
 conviction that the detachment of a fragment from beneath the over- 
 hanging pile on which we were reclining, or the slightest concussion 
 of the earth, which every thing around indicated to be no unfrequent 
 occurrence, would perhaps precipitate us, amidst the horrid crash of 
 falling rocks, into the burning lake immediately before us. 
 
 NATIVE VIEWS CONCERNING KILAUEA. 
 
 The natives, who probably viewed the scene with thoughts and 
 feelings somewhat different from ours, seemed, however, equally in- 
 terested. They sat most of the night talking of the achievements of 
 Pele, and regarding with a superstitious fear, at which we were not 
 surprised, the brilliant exhibition. They considered it the primeval 
 abode of their volcanic deities. The conical craters, they said, were 
 their houses, where they frequently amused themselves by playing at 
 Konnne (the game resembling drafts, described on page 158); the 
 roaring of the furnaces and the crackling of the flames were the kani 
 of their hura, (music of their dance,) and the red flaming surge was 
 the surf wherein they played, sportively swimming on the rolling 
 wave. Swimming in the sea, when the weather is tompestuous and 
 the surf high, is a favourite amusement throughout the Sandwich and 
 other islands in the Pacific.
 
 184 
 
 NATIVE TRADITIONS CONCERNING VOLCANO. 
 
 As eight of the natives with us belonged to the adjoining district, 
 we asked them to tell us what they knew of the history of this vol- 
 cano, and what their opinions were respecting it. From their account, 
 and that of others with whom we conversed, we learned, that it had 
 been burning from time immemorial, or, to use their own words, "mai 
 ka po mai," from chaos till now, (the Hawaiian traditions, like those 
 of the ancients, refer to night, or a chaotic state, the origin of the 
 world, and almost all things therein, the greater part of their gods not 
 excepted; the present state they call the Ao marama, Day, or state 
 of light; they speak of creation as a transition from darkness to 
 light; and when they wish to express the existence of any thing from 
 the beginning, they say it has been so mai ka po mai, from the night, 
 or state of darkness or confusion, till now;) and had overflowed some 
 part of the country during the reign of every king that had gov- 
 erned Hawaii: that in earlier ages it used to boil up, overflow its 
 banks, and inundate the adjacent country; but that, for many kings' 
 reigns past, it had kept below the level of the surrounding plain, 
 continually extending its surface and increasing its depth, and occa- 
 sionally throwing up, with violent explosion, huge rocks or red-hot 
 stones. These eruptions, they said, were always accompanied by 
 dreadful earthquakes, loud claps of thunder, with vivid and quick- 
 succeeding lightning. No great explosion, they added, had taken place 
 since the days of Keoua; but many places near the sea had since 
 been overflowed, on which occasions they supposed Pele went by a 
 road under ground from her house in the crater to the shore. 
 
 These few facts were gathered from their accounts of its origin and 
 operation; but they were so incorporated with their traditions of its 
 supernatural inhabitants, and fabulous stories of their romantic ad- 
 ventures, that we found no small difficulty in distinguishing fiction 
 from fact. 
 
 MYTHOLOGY OF THE VOLCANO. 
 
 Among other things, we were told, that though, according to the 
 traditions preserved in their songs, Kirauea had been burning ever 
 since the island emerged from night, it was not inhabited till after 
 the Tai-a-kahina'rii, sea of Kahina'rii, or deluge of the Sandwich 
 Islands. Shortly after that event, they say, the present volcanic 
 family came from Tahiti, a foreign country, to Hawaii. 
 
 The names of the principal individuals were: Kamoho-arii, the 
 king Moho; moho sometimes means a vapour, hence the name might 
 be the king of steam or vapour — Ta-poha-i-tahi-ora, the explosion in 
 the place of life — Te-ua-a-te-po, the rain of night — Tane-hetiri, hus- 
 band of thunder, or thundering tane (Tane is the name of one of their
 
 185 
 
 gods, as well as the name of the principal god formerly worshipped 
 by the Society islanders; in both languages the word also means a 
 husband) — and Te-o-ahi-tama-taua, fire-thrusting child of war; these 
 were all brothers, and two of them, Vulcan-like, were deformed, hav- 
 ing hump backs — Pele, principal goddess — Makore-wawahi-waa, fiery- 
 eyed canoe-breaker — Hiata-wawahi-lani, heaven-rending cloud-holder 
 — Hiata-noholani, heaven-dwelling cloud-holder — Hiata-taarava-mata, 
 quick glancing eyed cloud-holder, or the cloud-holder whose eyes turn 
 quickly and look frequently over her shoulders — Hiata-hoi-te-pori-a- 
 Pele, the cloud-holder embracing or kissing the bosom of Pele — Hiata- 
 ta-bu-enaena, the red-hot mountain holding or lifting clouds — Hiata- 
 tareiia, the wreath or garland-encircled cloud-holder — and Hiata-opio, 
 young cloud-holder. 
 
 These were all sisters, and, with many others in their train, on 
 landing at Hawaii, are said to have taken up their abode in Kirauea. 
 Something of their characters may be inferred from the few names we 
 have given. "Whenever the natives speak of them, it is as dreadful 
 beings. 
 
 VOLCANO THE ABODE OF THE GODS. 
 
 This volcano is represented as having been their principal residence 
 ever since their arrival, though they are thought to have many other 
 dwellings in different parts of the island, and not a few on the tops 
 of the snow-covered mountains. To these some of them frequently 
 remove. Sometimes their arrival in a district was foretold by the 
 priests of the heiaus there, and always announced by the convulsive 
 trembling of the earth, the illuminating fire in their houses, (craters,) 
 the flashes of lightning, and the roar of awful thunder. 
 
 OFFERINGS TO THE VOLCANO GODS. 
 
 They never journeyed on errands of mercy; to receive offerings, or 
 execute vengeance, where the only objects for which they left their 
 palace. "Nui wale," said the people with whom we were talking, 
 "ka kanaka i make ia rakou," (alluding to those destroyed by the 
 inundations,) Great indeed is the number of men slain by them; ua 
 rau, ua rau, ua rau, ka puaa i tioraia na rakou, (this is a figurative 
 expression signifying a great number, as we are accustomed to hear 
 of thousands, and thousands, and thousands,) four hundreds, four hun- 
 dreds, four hundreds of hogs have been thrown to them. (Vast num- 
 bers of hogs, some alive, others cooked, were thrown into the craters 
 during the time they were in action, or when they threatened an erup- 
 tion; and also, during an inundation, many were thrown into the 
 rolling torrent of lava, to appease the gods, and stay its progress.)
 
 186 
 
 \ KXGEANCE OP THE VOLCANO GODS. 
 
 The whole island was considered as bound to pay them tribute, or 
 support their heiaus, and kahu, (devotees;) and whenever the chiefs 
 or people failed to send the proper offerings, or incurred their dis- 
 pleasure by insulting them or their priests, or breaking the tabu 
 (sacred restrictions) of their domains in the vicinity of the craters, 
 they filled Kirauea with lava, and spouted it out, or, taking a sub- 
 terranean passage, marched to some one of their houses (craters) in 
 the neighbourhood where the offending parties dwelt, and from thence 
 came down upon the delinquents with all their dreadful scourges. 
 
 If a sufficient number of fish were not taken to them by the in- 
 habitants of the sea-shore, they would go down, and with fire kill the 
 fish, fill up with pahoehoe (lava) the shallow places, and destroy all 
 the fishing grounds. 
 
 COMBAT BETWEEN KAMAPUAA AND PELE. 
 
 We were told that several attempts had been made to drive them 
 off the islands, and that once they were nearly overpowered by Tama- 
 puaa, the Centaur of Hawaii, a gigantic animal, half hog and half 
 man. He travelled from Oahu to countries beyond the heavens, viz. 
 beyond the visible horizon, the boundary where they supposed the 
 heavens to be, in form of a hollow cone, joined to the sea. 
 
 He also visited Kirauea, and made proposals to become the guest 
 and suitor of Pele, the elder sister. When she saw him standing on 
 the edge of the crater, she rejected his proposals with contempt, call- 
 ing him a hog, the son of a hog. On her ascending from the crater 
 to drive him away, a fierce combat ensued. 
 
 Pele was forced to her volcano, and threatened with destruction 
 from the waters of the sea, which Tamapuaa poured into the crater 
 till it was almost full, and the fires were nearly extinct. Pele and 
 her companions drank up the waters, rose again from the craters, and 
 finally succeeded in driving Tamapuaa into the sea, whither she fol- 
 lowed him with thunder, lightning, and showers of large stones. 
 
 DESTRUCTION OP KEOUA'S ARMY. 
 
 They also related the account of the destruction of part of Keoua 'a 
 camp by a violent eruption of the volcano, which, from their descrip- 
 tion, must have been sudden and awful. 
 
 Pele, they said, was propitious to Tamehameha, and availed herself 
 of the opportunity afforded by the contiguous encampment of Keoua 
 to diminish his forces and aid the cause of his rival. 
 
 "We asked why Keoua was unpopular with Pele. They said, "We 
 do not exactly know. Some say, he had not sent sufficient offerings 
 to the heiaus; others, that he had no right to make war against
 
 187 
 
 Tamehameha, as he had before concluded a treaty of peace with him; 
 and others, that he had broken the tabu of the place by eating the 
 ohelos, marking and disturbing the sand, or pulling up a sacred kind 
 of grass growing in the neighbourhood." 
 
 THE EXPLOSIVE ERUPTION OF 1790. 
 
 Whatever was the cause, Pele, they said, was "huhu roa," ex- 
 ceedingly angry, and, soon after sun-set, repeatedly shook the earth 
 with the most violent heaving motion, sent up a column of dense black 
 smoke, followed by the most brilliant flames. 
 
 A violent percussion was afterwards felt, streams of bright red lava 
 were spouted up, and immense rocks in a state of ignition thrown 
 to a great height in the air. A volley of smaller stones, thrown with 
 much greater velocity and force, instantly followed the larger ones, 
 and struck some of them, when the latter frequently burst with a re- 
 port like thunder, accompanied by the most vivid flashes of lightning. 
 
 Many of Keoua's people were killed by the falling fragments of 
 rocks, and many were actually buried beneath the overwhelming mass 
 of ashes and lava. Some of the natives say, the warriors of two dis- 
 tricts, about eighty men, perished on this occasion. 
 
 Not intimidated by this event, which many considered as a pre- 
 monition of his fate, Keoua continued his march, and the volcano 
 continued its action, confining, however, its operation within the 
 boundaries of Kirauea. 
 
 We had heard the account several times before, with some little 
 variation as to the numbers killed, and the appearance of Pele to 
 Keoua, in the column of smoke as it rose from the crater, and, with 
 the exception of this last circumstance, believe it to be true. 
 
 NATIVE VISIONS OF THE VOLCANO GODS. 
 
 Frequently during the night the natives thought they saw some one 
 or other of the deities, but immediately afterwards they doubted. 
 At these times, if we asked them where they saw Pele, they would 
 sometimes point to the red lava, at others to the variegated flame; and 
 on our saying we could not perceive any distinct form, they generally 
 answered by assuring us, that during the night some one or other of 
 them would certainly be seen. 
 
 We jocosely requested them to inform us as soon as any appeared; 
 and even to awake us, should we happen to be asleep. At the same 
 time we told them, that when we considered their ignorance of the 
 true God, and of the causes by which the action of volcanoes was 
 sustained, we were not surprised at their supposing them to be the 
 habitations of their deities, and their operations those of supernatural 
 beings.
 
 188 
 
 As far as their language and mental capability admitted, we en- 
 deavoured to explain some of the causes of volcanic fire; and illus- 
 trated them by the force of gunpowder, with the effects of which the 
 natives are familiar; assuring them that the expansive force of steam 
 is much greater than that of gunpowder- 
 
 Our principal solicitude, however, was to lead their minds to God, 
 who created the world, and whose almighty power controls the ele- 
 ments of nature in all their diversified operations; but of whom, 
 though they beheld the wondrous works of his hand, they were 
 lamentably ignorant. 
 
 DIMENSIONS OP THE CRATER. 
 
 After two or three hours' sleep, we arose before it was day, and, 
 gathering round our fire, sang our morning hymn of praise, in which 
 we were joined by the natives who were with us. The sun had now 
 risen, and, as we had no provisions left, we felt it necessary to pre- 
 pare for our departure. Mr. Goodrich walked along the north side of 
 the crater, in order to enable us to form as accurate an opinion as 
 possible of its actual dimensions; and, from the observations of Mr. 
 Goodrich and Mr. Thurston, as well as those the rest of us made when 
 we walked along the north and east sides, we think the crater is 
 not less than five, or five-and-a-half, miles in circumference. 
 
 The following extract of a letter from Mr. Chamberlain is copied 
 from a recent American publication: 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF KILAUEA BY GOODRICH. 
 
 "Mr. Goodrich and myself visited the volcano again, and, with a 
 line, measured the upper edge of the crater, and found it to be seven 
 miles and a half in circumference. We then descended, and measured 
 the side of the ledge, and satisfied ourselves, that, at the depth of 
 500 or 600 feet, the circumference is at least five miles and a half. 
 "We did not get the exact depth of it, but judge it not less than one 
 thousand feet. We had good opportunities for forming a judgment." 
 
 In a letter to Professor Silliman of New Haven, Mr. Goodrich cor- 
 roborates the above, and states also, that he walked across the bot- 
 tom, where the lava was hard, the surface of which, though appar- 
 ently smooth as seen from the top, was raised in hills or sunk in 
 valleys; that dense sulphureous fumes and gases, very suffocating, 
 some of them resembling muriatic gas, ascended from almost all parts 
 of the bottom, making in their escape a "tremendous roaring, like the 
 discharge of steam from the boiler of a steam engine;" at one place 
 the florid lava was boiling like a fountain, and spouting up lava forty 
 or fifty feet into the air. — Philosophical Magazine for September, 
 1826.
 
 189 
 DEPTH OF THE CRATER. 
 
 We regret that we had not means for ascertaining more accurately 
 its depth. 
 
 We lowered down a line one hundred feet from the edge of the 
 plain on which our hut was erected, but it did not appear to reach 
 near half-way to the black ledge of lava; and judging the proportion 
 below to be equal to that above, it could not be less than 700 or 800 
 feet to the liquid lava. 
 
 "We also threw down some large stones, which after several seconds 
 struck on the sides, and then bounded down to the bottom, where 
 they were lost in the lava. "When they reached the bottom they ap- 
 peared like pebbles, and we were obliged to watch their course very 
 steadily to perceive them at all. 
 
 A SECOND VISIT TO KILAUEA. 
 
 In company with Dr. Blatchely, Messrs. Chamberlain and Ely, 
 American missionaries, and a gentleman resident in Oahu, I have 
 since visited Kirauea, when we again endeavoured to measure its 
 circumference. 
 
 Mr. Chamberlain walked round the northern end from east to west, 
 as near the edge as it was prudent to go, and, numbering his paces, 
 made that part of it 3 1/16 miles; from which, we think, the above 
 estimate does not exceed the actual extent of the crater. 
 
 We also lowered down a line 230 feet long, but it did not reach 
 the horizontal ledge of lava. The fissures in the vicinity of the sul- 
 phur banks, and pools of water, were more numerous, and the smoke 
 and vapour that ascended from them greater in quantity, than during 
 our first visit. 
 
 CHANGES AT THE VOLCANO. 
 
 The volcano was much more quiescent; but some violent convulsions 
 had taken place in the interim, for several masses of rock had fallen 
 from the high precipices in the neighbourhood. The fires in the south 
 and west parts burned but feebly; and though there was but little firo 
 in the north and east sections of the volcano, it was evident that the 
 whole of the lava in this part had been in a state of agitation since 
 we had seen it. 
 
 Some of the small craters, on the southern sides of the great abyss, 
 were extinguished; but several new craters had been formed on the 
 opposite side, and bore marks of having been in vigorous action but a 
 very short period before. 
 
 Soon after leaving our encampment this morning, we come to the 
 pools of water, where we filled our canteens.
 
 190 
 THE JOURNEY FROM KILAUEA TO HILO. 
 
 Here also our party separated; Messrs. Goodrich and Harwood pro- 
 ceeding across the interior through the villages of Ora to Waiakea, 
 in the division of Hiro, while the rest of us passed along the east side 
 of the crater, towards the sea-shore. , 
 
 The path was in many places dangerous, lying along narrow ridges, 
 with fearful precipices on each side, or across deep chasms and hol- 
 lows that required the utmost care to avoid falling into them, and 
 where a fall would have been fatal, as several of the chasms seemed 
 narrowest at the surface. 
 
 In one place, we passed along for a considerable distance under a 
 high precipice, where, though the country was perfectly level at the 
 top, or sloped gradually towards the sea, the impending rocks tow- 
 ered some hundred feet above us on our left, and the appalling flood 
 of lava rolled almost immediately beneath us on our right. 
 
 LAVA SPECIMENS AND PELE'S HAIR. 
 
 On this side we descended to some small craters on the declivity, 
 and also to the black ledge; where we collected a number of beautiful 
 specimens of highly scoriacious lava, the base approaching to volcanic 
 glass. It was generally of a black or red colour, light, cellular, brit- 
 tle, and shining. 
 
 We also found a quantity of volcanic glass drawn out into filaments 
 as fine as human hair, and called by the natives rauoho o Pele, (hair 
 of Pele). It was of a dark olive colour, semi-transparent, and brittle, 
 though some of the filaments were several inches long. Probably 
 it had been produced by the bursting of igneous masses of lava, 
 thrown out from the craters, or separated in fine-spun threads from 
 the boiling fluid, when in a state of perfect fusion, and, borne by 
 the smoke or vapour above the edges of the crater, had been wafted 
 by the winds over the adjacent plain; for we also found quantities of 
 it at least seven miles distant from the large crater. 
 
 LAVA CONES AND TUNNELS. 
 
 "We entered several small craters, that had been in vigorous action 
 but a very short period before, marks of most recent fusion presenting 
 themselves on every side. Their size and height were various, and 
 many, which from the top had appeared insignificant as mole-hills, 
 we now found twelve or twenty feet high. The outside was composed 
 of bright shining scoriacious lava, heaped up in piles of most singular 
 form. The lava on the inside was of a light or dark red colour, with a 
 glazed surface, and in several places, where the heat had evidently 
 been intense, we saw a deposit of small and beautifully white crystals.
 
 191 
 
 We also entered several covered channels, or tunnels, down which 
 the lava had flowed into the large abyss. They had been formed 
 by the cooling of the lava on the sides and surface of the stream, while 
 it had continued to flow on underneath. As the size of the current 
 diminished, it had left a hard crust of lava of unequal thickness over 
 the top, supported by walls of the same material on each side. Their 
 interior was beautiful beyond description. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF LAVA CAVES. 
 
 In many places they were ten or twelve feet high, and as many 
 wide at the bottom. The roofs formed a regular arch, hung with red 
 and brown stalactitic lava, in every imaginable shape, while the floor 
 appeared like one continued glassy stream. The winding of its cur- 
 rent and the ripple of its surface were so entire, that it seemed as 
 if, while in rapid motion, the stream of lava had suddenly stopped, 
 and become indurated, even before the undulations of the surface had 
 subsided. 
 
 "We traced one of these volcanic chambers to the edge of the preci- 
 pice that bounds the great crater, and looked over the fearful steep, 
 down which the fiery cascade had rushed. In the place where it had 
 fallen, the lava had formed a spacious basin, which, hardening as it 
 cooled, had retained all those forms which a torrent of lava, falling 
 several hundred feet, might be expected to produce on the viscid 
 mass below. 
 
 VARIETIES OP EJECTED ROCK. 
 
 In the neighbourhood we saw several large masses of basaltic rock, 
 of a dark gray colour, weighing probably from one to four or five 
 tons, which although they did not bear any marks of recent fire, 
 must have been ejected from the great crater during some violent 
 eruption, as the surrounding rocks in every direction presented a very 
 different appearance; or they might have been thrown out in a liquid 
 state, combined with other matter that had formed a rock of a less 
 durable kind, which, decomposing more rapidly, had been washed 
 away, and left them in detached masses scattered on the plain. 
 
 They were hard, and, when fractured, appeared a lava of basalt, 
 containing very fine grains of compact felspar and augite; some of 
 them contained small particles of olivin. 
 
 We also saw a number of other rocks in a state of decomposition, 
 which proved to be a species of lava, containing globules of zeolite. 
 The decomposition of these rocks appeared to have formed the present 
 surface of much of the west, north, and east parts of the plain 
 immediately surrounding the crater.
 
 192 
 
 When we had broken off specimens of these, and of some red 
 earthy-looking stones, which seemed to have the same base as the 
 other, but to have lost their compact texture, and to have experienced 
 a change of colour, from a further degree of decomposition, we passed 
 along to the east side, where I took a sketch of the south-west end 
 of the crater. 
 
 KILAUEA-IKI DESCRIBED. 
 
 As we travelled on from this spot, we unexpectedly came to another 
 deep crater, nearly half as large as the former. The native name of 
 it is Kirauea-iti, (little Kirauea). It is separated from the large 
 crater by an isthmus nearly a hundred yards wide. Its sides, which 
 were much less perpendicular than those of the great crater, were 
 covered with trees and shrubs, but the bottom was filled with black 
 lava, either fluid or scarcely cold, and probably supplied by the great 
 crater, as the trees, shrubs, and grass on its sides, shewed it had 
 remained many years in a state of quiescence. Though this was the 
 only small one we saw, our companions informed us there were many 
 in the neighbourhood. 
 
 A RUINED HEIAU AT KILAUEA. 
 
 They also pointed out to us the ruins of Oararauo, an old heiau, 
 which crowned the summit of a lofty precipice on our left. It was 
 formerly a temple of Pele, of which Kamakaakeakua, (the eye of 
 god,) a distinguished soothsayer, who died in the reign of Tameha- 
 meha, was many years priest. 
 
 Large offerings were frequently made of hogs, dogs, fish, and fruits, 
 but we could not learn that human victims were ever immolated on 
 its altars. These offerings were always cooked in the steaming chasms, 
 or the adjoining ground. Had they been dressed any where else, or 
 prepared with other fire, they would have been considered polluted, 
 and have been expected to draw down curses on those who presented 
 them. 
 
 CONDITIONS IN THE VICINITY OP KILAUEA. 
 
 The ground throughout the whole plain is so hot, that those who 
 come to the mountains to procure wood for building, or to cut down 
 trees and hollow them out for canoes, always cook their own food, 
 whether animal or vegetable, by simply wrapping it in fern leaves, 
 and burying it in the earth. 
 
 The east side of the plain was ornamented with some beautiful 
 species of Alices; also with several plants much resembling some of the 
 varieties of cycas, and thickly covered with ohelo bushes, the berries 
 of which we ate freely as we walked along, till, coming to a steep 
 precipice, we ascended about 300 feet, and reached the high land on
 
 193 
 
 the side towards the sea, which commanded a fine view of Mouna 
 Eoa, opposite to which we had been travelling ever since we left 
 Punaruu. 
 
 The mountain appeared of an oval shape, stretching along in a 
 southwest direction, nearly parallel with the south-east shore, from 
 which its base was generally distant twenty or thirty miles. 
 
 A ridge of high land appeared to extend from the eastern point 
 to the south-west shore. Between it and the foot of Mouna Eoa was 
 a valley, as near as we could judge, from seven to twelve miles wide. 
 
 MAUNA LOA SNOW CAPPED. 
 
 The summit of Mouna Eoa was never free from snow, the higher 
 parts of the mountain's side were totally destitute of every kind of 
 vegetation; and by the help of a telescope we could discover numerous 
 extinguished craters, with brown and black streams of indurated lava 
 over the whole extent of its surface. 
 
 The foot of the mountain was enriched on this side by trees and 
 shrubs, which extended from its base six or seven miles towards the 
 summit. 
 
 FIRST WHITES TO VISIT KILAUEA. 
 
 The volcano of Kirauea, the largest of which we have any account, 
 and which was, until visited by us, unknown to the civilized parts of 
 the world, is situated in the district of Kapapala, nearly on the 
 boundary line between the divisions of Kau and Puna, twenty miles 
 from the sea-shore. 
 
 We could form no correct estimate of its elevation above the level 
 of the sea; the only means we had of judging being the difference of 
 temperature in the air, as shewn by our thermometer, which, on the 
 shore, was usually at sunrise 71°, but which, in the neighbourhood of 
 the volcano, was, at the same hour, no higher than 46°. 
 
 From the isthmus between Kirauea-nui, or Great Kirauea, and Lit- 
 tle Kirauea, the highest peak of Mouna- Kea bore by compass N. N. \V. 
 and the centre of Mouna-Eoa W. S. W. 
 
 The uneven summits of the steep rocks, that, like a wall, many 
 miles in extent, surrounded the crater and all its appendages, shewed 
 the original level of the country, or perhaps marked the base, and 
 formed as it were the natural buttresses of some lofty mountain, 
 raised in the first instance by the accumulation of volcanic matter, 
 whose bowels had been consumed by volcanic fire, and whose sides had 
 afterwards fallen into the vast furnace, where, reduced a second time 
 to a liquefied state, they had been again vomited out on the adjacent 
 plain. 
 
 13
 
 194 
 SPECULATIONS CONCERNING THE VOLCANO. 
 
 But the magnificent fires of Kirauea, which we had viewed with such 
 admiration, appeared to dwindle into insignificance, when we thought 
 of the probable subterranean fires immediately beneath us. 
 
 The whole island of Hawaii, covering a space of four thousand 
 square miles, from the summits of its lofty mountains, perhaps 15,000 
 or 16,000 feet above the level of the sea, down to the beach, is, accord- 
 ing to every observation we could make, one complete mass of lava, 
 or other volcanic matter, in different stages of decomposition. 
 
 Perforated with innumerable apertures in the shape of craters, the 
 island forms a hollow cone over one vast furnace, situated in the 
 heart of a stupendous submarine mountain, rising from the bottom 
 of the sea; or possibly the fires may rage with augmented force be- 
 neath the bed of the ocean, rearing through the superincumbent 
 weight of water the base of Hawaii, and, at the same time, forming 
 a pyramidal funnel from the furnace to the atmosphere. 
 
 CAPT. KING CONCERNING KEA AND LOA. 
 
 In Cook's Voyages, Captain King, speaking of Mouna-Kaah, (Kea,) 
 remarks that it "may be clearly seen at fourteen leagues' distance." 
 
 Describing Mouna-Roa, and estimating it according to the tropical 
 line of snow, he observes, ' ' This mountain must be at least 16,020 
 feet high, which exceeds the height of the Pico de Teyde, or Peak of 
 Teneriffe, by 724 feet, according to Dr. Heberden's computation, or 
 3680 according to that of Chevalier de Borda. The peaks of Mouna 
 Kaah appeared to be about half a mile high; and as they are entirely 
 covered with snow, the altitude of their summits cannot be less than 
 18,400 feet. But it is probable that both these mountains may be 
 considerably higher; for in insular situations, the effects of the warm 
 sea air must necessarily remove the line of snow, in equal latitudes, 
 to a greater height, than where the atmosphere is chilled on all sides 
 by an immense tract of perpetual snow." 
 
 LEAVING THE VOLCANO. 
 
 Though we left our encampment at daybreak, it was eleven o'clock 
 in the forenoon before we took our final leave of Kirauea. 
 
 The path by which we descended towards the sea was about south- 
 east-by-east. On the high lands in the vicinity of the crater, we 
 found the ground covered with strawberry plants, on some of which 
 were a few berries, but the season for them appeared to be gone by. 
 The plants and vines were small, as was also the fruit, which in its 
 colour and shape resembled the hautboy strawberry, though in taste it 
 was much more insipid.
 
 195 
 
 Strawberries, as well as raspberries, are indigenous plants, and are 
 found in great abundance over most of the high lands of Hawaii; 
 though we do not know of their existence in any other islands of the 
 group. 
 
 The ground over which we walked was composed of ancient lava, 
 of a light brown colour, broken into small pieces, resembling coarse 
 dry gravel, to the depth of two or three inches, below which it was 
 one solid mass of lava. The surface was covered with ohelo bushes, 
 and a few straggling ferns and low shrubs, which made travelling 
 much more agreeable than when we approached the volcano. 
 
 KEANAKAKOI CRATER. 
 
 Within a few miles of Kirauea, we passed three or four high and 
 extinct craters. One of them, Keanakakoi, the natives told us, sent 
 forth, in the days of Riroa, king of Hawaii about fourteen genera- 
 tions back, most of the lava over which we were travelling. The 
 sides of these craters were generally covered with verdure, while the 
 brown irregular-shaped rocks on their indented summits frowned like 
 the battlements of an ancient castle in ruins. 
 
 We occasionally passed through rather extensive shrubberies of 
 bushes and small trees growing in the decomposed lava and sand, and 
 striking their roots among the cracks which were filled up with the 
 same material. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF APPROACHES TO PUNA. 
 
 As we approached the sea, the soil became more generally spread 
 over the surface, and vegetation more luxuriant. 
 
 About two p. m. we sat down to rest. The natives ran to a spot 
 in the neighbourhood, which had formerly been a plantation, and 
 brought a number of pieces of sugar-cane, with which we quenched 
 cur thirst, and then walked on through several plantations of the 
 sweet potato, belonging to the inhabitants of the coast, until about 
 three o 'clock, when we reached the edge of the high ground, which, 
 at a remote period, probably formed the south-east coast. 
 
 We stopped at a solitary cottage, where we procured a copious 
 draught of fresh water, to us a most grateful beverage, as we had 
 travelled ever since the morning without any refreshment, except a 
 few berries and a piece of sugar-cane. 
 
 We descended 300 or 400 feet, by a narrow winding path, covered 
 with overhanging trees, and bordered by shrubs and grass. We then 
 walked over a tract of lava, broken and decomposed, and about four 
 or five miles wide, at the end of which another steep appeared. 
 
 These steep precipices form concentric ridges of volcanic rock 
 round the greater part of this side of the island. Down this we de-
 
 196 
 
 scended, by following the course of a rugged current of ancient lava, 
 for about 600 feet perpendicular depth, when we arrived at the plain 
 below, which was one extended sheet of lava, without shrub or 
 bush, stretching to the north and south as far as the eye could reach, 
 and from four to six miles across, from, the foot of the mountain to 
 the sea. 
 
 POOR WATER AT KEALAKOMO. 
 
 The natives gave us the fabulous story of the combat between 
 Pele and Tamapuaa, as the origin of this flood of lava. 
 
 This vast tract of lava was black, shining, and cellular, though not 
 very brittle, and was more homogeneous than that which covered the 
 southern shores of the island. 
 
 We crossed it in about two hours, and arrived at Kearakomo, the 
 second village in the division of Puna. TTe stopped at the first 
 house we came to, and begged some water. The natives brought us 
 a calabash-full, of which we drank most hearty draughts, though it 
 was little better than the water of the sea, from which it had per- 
 colated through the vesicles of the lava into the hollows from nine 
 to twelve feet distant from the ocean. It barely quenched our thirst 
 while we were swallowing it, but it was the best we could procure, 
 and we could hardly refrain from drinking at every hollow to which 
 we came. 
 
 ACCOMMODATIONS BAD— NATIVES DRUNK. 
 
 After walking about a mile along the beach, we came to a house, 
 which our guide pointed out as our lodgings. It was a miserable hut, 
 and we asked if we could not find better accommodations, as we in- 
 tended to spend the Sabbath in the village? Mauae told us it was 
 the only one in the place that was not crowded with people, and he 
 thought the most comfortable one we could procure. 
 
 The village is populous, and the natives soon thronged around us. 
 To our great regret, two-thirds of them appeared to be in a state of 
 intoxication, a circumstance w T e frequently had occasion to lament, in 
 the villages through which we passed. Their inebriation was gen- 
 erally the effect of an intoxicating drink made of fermented sugar- 
 cane juice, sweet potatoes, or ti root. 
 
 MAKING LIQUOR FROM THE TI PLANT. 
 
 The ti plant is common in all the South Sea islands, and is a variety 
 of dracaena, resembling the dracaena terminalis, except in the colour 
 of its leaves, which are of a lively shining green. It is a slow-grow- 
 ing plant, with a large woody fusiform root, which, when first dug 
 out of the ground, is hard and fibrous, almost tasteless, and of a 
 white or light yellow colour.
 
 197 
 
 The natives bake it in large ovens underground, in the same man- 
 ner as they dress the arum and other edible roots. After baking, it 
 appears like a different substance altogether, being of a yellowish 
 brown colour, soft though fibrous, and saturated with a highly 
 saccharine juice. It is sweet and pleasant to the taste, and much of 
 it is eaten in this state, but the greater part is employed in making 
 an intoxicating liquor much used by the natives. 
 
 They bruise the baked roots with a stone, and steep them with 
 water in a barrel or the bottom of an old canoe, till the mass is in 
 a state of fermentation. The liquor is then drawn off, and some- 
 times distilled, when it produces a strong spirit; but the greater part 
 of it is drank in its fermented state without any further perparation. 
 
 The root is certainly capable of being used for many valuable pur- 
 poses. A good beer may be made from it; and in the Society Islands, 
 though never able to granulate it, we have frequently boiled its juice 
 to a thick syrup, and used it as a substitute for sugar, when destitute 
 of that article. 
 
 OTHER USES OF THE TI PLANT. 
 
 "We should think it an excellent antiscorbutic, and as such, useful 
 to ships on long voyages. 
 
 Captains visiting the Society Islands frequently procure large quan- 
 tities of it to make beer with during their voyage, as it will keep good 
 six weeks or two months after it is baked. It is not so plentiful in 
 the Sandwich Islands as it was before the natives used it for the 
 above purpose, but in some of the other islands of the Pacific it is 
 abundant, and may be easily procured. 
 
 On my return in the American ship Eussell, Captain Coleman, we 
 procured a quantity that had been baked, at Eurutu, near the Society 
 Islands, and brought it round Cape Horn. It lasted five or six 
 weeks, and would probably have kept longer, as the only change we 
 perceived during that time was a slight degree of acidity in the 
 taste. Cattle, sheep, and goats, are fond of the leaves; and as they 
 contain more nutriment than any other indigenous vegetable, and 
 may be kept on board ships several weeks, they are certainly the 
 best provender that can be procured in the islands for stock taken 
 to sea. 
 
 TI LEAVES USED AS FLAGS OF TRUCE. 
 
 Other parts of the dracaena are also useful. The natives fre- 
 quently plant the roots thickly around their enclosures, interweave 
 the stems of the plant, and form a valuable permanent hedge. 
 
 The branch was always an emblem of peace, and in times of war, 
 borne, together with a young plantain tree, as a flag of truce by 
 the messengers who passed between the hostile parties.
 
 198 
 
 The leaves, woven together by their stalks, formed a short cloak, 
 which the natives wore in their mountainous journeys; they also 
 make the most durable thatch for the sides and roofs of their best 
 houses, are employed in constructing their tents in war, and tem- 
 porary abodes during their inland excursions. 
 
 About sunset we sent to the head man of the village for some 
 refreshment, but he was intoxicated; and though we had walked up- 
 wards of twenty miles since morning, and had subsisted on but scanty 
 fare since leaving Kapapala, we could only procure a few cold 
 potatoes, and two or three pieces of raw salt fish. 
 
 SUPERSTITIOUS FEAR OP PELE. 
 
 Multitudes crowded around our hut; and with those that were sober 
 wo entered into conversation. When they learned that we had been 
 to Kirauea, they were unwilling to believe we had broken the sulphur 
 banks, eaten the ohelo berries, descended to the craters, or broken 
 any fragments of lava from them, as they said Pele ma, Pele and her 
 associates, would certainly have revenged the insult. However, when 
 our boys shewed them the ohelo berries, with the specimens of sul- 
 phur and lava that we had brought away, they were convinced that 
 we had been there, but said we had escaped only because we were 
 haore, foreigners. No Hawaiian, they added, would have done so 
 with impunity, for Pele was a dreadful being. 
 
 The apprehensions uniformly entertained by the natives, of the 
 fearful consequences of Pele 's anger, prevented their paying very 
 frequent visits to the vicinity of her abode; and when, on their inland 
 journeys, they had occasion to approach Kirauea, they were scrupu- 
 lously attentive to every injunction of her priests, and regarded 
 with a degree of superstitious veneration and awe, the appalling spec- 
 tacle which the crater and its appendages presented. 
 
 The violations of her sacred abode, and the insults to her power, 
 of which we had been guilty, appeared to them, and to the natives 
 in general, acts of temerity and sacrilege; and, notwithstanding the 
 fact of our being foreigners, we were subsequently threatened with 
 the vengeance of the volcanic deity, under the following circum- 
 stancs. 
 
 A PRIESTESS OF PELE THREATENS VENGEANCE. 
 
 Some months after our visit to Kirauea, a priestess of Pele came 
 to Lahaina, in Maui, where the principal chiefs of the islands then 
 resided. The object of her visit was noised abroad among the people, 
 and much public interest excited. One or two mornings after her 
 arrival in the district, arrayed in her prophetic robes, having the 
 edges of her garments burnt with fire, and holding a short staff or
 
 199 
 
 spear in her hand, preceded by her daughter, who was also a candi- 
 date for the office of priestess, and followed by thousands of the 
 people, she came into the presence of the chiefs; and having told who 
 she was, they asked what communications she had to make. 
 
 She replied, that, in a trance or vision, she had been with Pele, 
 by whom she was charged to complain to them that a number of 
 foreigners had visited Kirauea; eaten the sacred berries; broken her 
 houses, the craters; thrown down large stones, &c. to request that 
 the offenders might be sent away; and to assure them, that if these 
 foreigners were not banished from the islands, Pele would certainly, 
 in a given number of days, take vengeance by inundating the country 
 with lava, and destroying the people. She also pretended to have 
 received, in a supernatural manner, Kihoriho's approbation of the 
 request of the goddess. 
 
 PELE'S PRIESTESS REPUDIATED BY KAAHUMANU. 
 
 The crowds of natives who stood waiting the result of her inter- 
 view with the chiefs, were almost as much astonished as the priestess 
 herself, when Kaahumanu and the other chiefs ordered all her para- 
 phernalia of office to be thrown into the fire; told her the message 
 she had delivered was a falsehood, and directed her to return home, 
 cultivate the ground for her subsistence, and discontinue her jour- 
 neys of deception among the people. 
 
 This answer was dictated by the chiefs themselves. 
 
 The missionaries at the station, although they were aware of the 
 visit of the priestess, and saw her, followed by the thronging crowd, 
 pass by their habitation on her way to the residence of the chiefs, 
 did not think it necessary to attend or interfere, but relied entirely 
 on the enlightened judgment and integrity of the chiefs, to suppress 
 any attempts that might be made to revive the influence of Pele 
 over the people; and in the result they were not disappointed, for 
 the natives returned to their habitations, and the priestess soon after 
 left the island, and has not since troubled them with the threaten- 
 ings of the goddess. 
 
 KAPIOLANI'S VISIT TO KILAUEA. 
 
 On another occasion, Kapiolani, a pious chief -woman, the wife of 
 Naihe, chief of Kaavaroa, was passing near the volcano, and ex- 
 pressed her determination to visit it. 
 
 Some of the devotees of the goddess met her, and attempted to dis- 
 suade her from her purpose; assuring her that though foreigners 
 might go there with security, yet Pele would allow no Hawaiian to 
 intrude.
 
 200 
 
 Kapiolani, however, was not to be thus diverted, but proposed that 
 they should all go together; and declaring that if Pele appeared, or 
 inflicted any punishment, she would then worship the goddess, but 
 proposing that if nothing of the kind took place, they should renounce 
 their attachment to Pele, and join with her and her friends in 
 acknowledging Jehovah as the true God. 
 
 They all went together to the volcano; Kapiolani, with her attend- 
 ants, descended several hundred feet towards the bottom of the 
 crater, where she spoke to them of the delusion they had formerly 
 laboured under in supposing it inhabited by their false gods; they 
 sung a hymn, and after spending several hours in the vicinity, pur- 
 sued their journey. What effect the conduct of Kapiolani, on this 
 occasion, will have on the natives in general, remains yet to be dis- 
 covered. 
 
 RECENT VOLCANIC ACTIVITY AT KEALAALA AND MAHUKA. 
 
 The people of Kearakomo also told us, that no longer than five 
 moons ago, Pele, had issued from a subterranean cavern, and over- 
 flowed the low land of Kearaara, and the southern part of Kapapala. 
 The inundation was sudden and violent, burnt one canoe, and car- 
 ried four more into the sea. 
 
 At Mahuka, the deep torrent of lava bore into the sea a large rock, 
 according to their account, near a hundred feet high, which, a short 
 period before, had been separated by an earthquake from the main 
 pile in the neighbourhood. It now stands, they say, in the sea, nearly 
 a mile from the shore, its bottom surrounded by lava, its summit 
 rising considerably above the water. 
 
 "We exceedingly regretted our ignorance of this inundation at the 
 time when we passed through the inland parts of the above-men- 
 tioned districts, for had we known of it then, we should certainly 
 have descended to the shore, and examined its extent and appearance. 
 
 We now felt convinced that the chasms we had visited at Ponaho- 
 hoa, and the smoking fissures we afterwards saw nearer Kirauea, 
 marked the course of a stream of lava, and thought it probable that 
 though the lava had burst out five months ago, it was still flowing in 
 a smaller and less rapid stream. 
 
 Perhaps the body of lava that had filled Kirauea up to the black 
 ledge which we saw, between three and four hundred feet above the 
 liquid lava, at the time we visited it, had been drawn off by this 
 subterranean channel, though the distance between the great crater 
 and the land overflowed by it, was not less than thirty or thirty- 
 five miles.
 
 201 
 A NIGHT AND DAY AT KEALAKOMO. 
 
 When the day began to close, and we wished the natives to retire, 
 we told them that to-morrow was the sacred day of Jehovah, the 
 true God, and directed them to come together early in the morning, 
 to hear his word, and unite with us in his worship. We then spread 
 our mats upon some poles that lay at one end of the house, and, as 
 we had no lamp, and could procure no candle-nuts, we laid ourselves 
 down as soon as it became dark, and, notwithstanding our uncom- 
 fortable lodging place, slept very soundly till day-break. 
 
 ' ' Welcome, sweet day of rest, ' ' was the language of our hearts, as 
 on the morning of the 3d we beheld the Sabbath's early light dawn 
 on the desolate shores of Puna, and saw the bright luminary of day, 
 emblem of the Sabbath's Lord, rise from the eastern wave of the 
 extended Pacific. 
 
 After the fatiguing journey, and unusual excitement, of the past 
 week, a day's rest was necessary, and we were happy to spend it 
 in the populous, though desolate-looking village of Kearakomo, as it 
 afforded us an opportunity of unfolding the Saviour 's love to many of 
 its inhabitants, and inviting them to seek that everlasting rest and 
 happiness reserved for his followers in the heavenly world. 
 
 SUNDAY MORNING SERVICES WITH THE NATIVES. 
 
 Between six and seven o'clock, about two hundred of the people 
 collected in front of our house. We sung a hymn; one of our number 
 preached to them a discourse, which occupied rather more than half 
 an hour; and another concluded the service with prayer. They were 
 all sober, and appeared attentive. Several proposed questions to us; 
 and when we had answered them, we directed them to return to their 
 houses, to abstain from fishing and other ordinary employments, and, 
 when the sun was over their heads, (the manner of expressing mid- 
 day,) to come together again, and hear more about Jehovah and 
 Jesus Christ. Many, however, continued talking with the natives be- 
 longing to our company, and gazing at us through most of the day. 
 
 HOSPITALITY OP NATIVES. 
 
 About nine a. m. a friend of Mauae brought us a bundle of potatoes 
 and a fowl. We procured another; our native boys cooked them in 
 an oven of stones under ground, and they made us a good breakfast. 
 All that we wanted was fresh water, that which we were obliged to 
 drink being extremely brackish. For it, however, and our other re- 
 freshments, we felt thankful; and considered the inconvenience of
 
 202 
 
 wanting fresh water very trifling, compared with, the pleasure which 
 passing a Sabbath among the poor benighted people around, imparted, 
 in declaring to them the love of God, and inviting them to partake 
 of the bread which came down from heaven, and to drink of the foun- 
 tain of the water of life. 
 
 FURTHER SERVICES AND HOSPITALITY. 
 
 At 12 o'clock, about three hundred of the people again assembled 
 near our dwelling, and we held a religious exercise similar to that 
 which they had attended in the morning. 
 
 The head man of the village was present during the service. He 
 came into our house after it was over, and told us all his provisions 
 were at his farm, which was some distance inland, and that tomor- 
 row he intended to bring us a pig, and some potatoes. We thanked 
 him, but told him probably we should proceed on our way early in the 
 morning. He went away, and in a short time returned with a raw 
 salted albicore, and a basket of baked sweet potatoes, which he said 
 was all he could furnish us with to-day. 
 
 We spent the afternoon in conversation with those who crowded 
 our hut, and wished to inquire more fully about the things of which 
 they had heard. 
 
 Between five and six in the evening, the people again collected for 
 worship in front of our house, when they were addressed from Isaiah 
 lx. 1. "Arise, shine, for thy light is come." They listened with 
 attention to the advantages of Christian light and knowledge, con- 
 trasted with pagan ignorance and misery, and several exclaimed at 
 the close of the service, Oia no. Poereere makou. E ake makou i 
 hoomaramarania ia. "So it is. We are dark. We desire to be en- 
 lightened." 
 
 FRESH WATER A LUXURY. 
 
 In the evening, we were so favoured as to procure a calabash-full 
 of fresh water from the caves in the mountains, where it had filtered 
 through the strata of lava, and was received into vessels placed there 
 for that purpose. It tasted bitter, from standing long in the cala- 
 bashes; but yet it was a luxury, for our thirst was great, notwith- 
 standing the quantities of water we had drank during the day. 
 
 About sunset we ate some of our raw fish and half-baked potatoes. 
 When it began to grow dark, we concluded the day with prayer, 
 imploring the gracious influences of the Holy Spirit to follow our 
 feeble attempts to declare his truth, and make it effectual to the 
 spiritual welfare of the people. 
 
 We afterwards lay down upon our mats, but passed an uncom- 
 fortable night, from the swarms of vermin which infested the house,
 
 203 
 
 and the indisposition induced by the nature of the food and water we 
 had taken since leaving the volcano. 
 
 "We held worship with the people of the village at sunrise on the 
 4th, and after a short address, in which we earnestly recommended 
 them to give themselves up to the Saviour, we bade them farewell, 
 and set out again on our journey. 
 
 Leaving Kearakomo, we travelled several miles in a north-easterly 
 direction along the same bed of lava that we had crossed on Satur- 
 day evening. 
 
 WHY NATIVES LIVE ALONG THE SHORE. 
 
 The population of this part of Puna, though somewhat numerous, 
 did not appear to possess the means of subsistence in any great 
 variety or abundance; and we have often been surprised to find the 
 desolate coasts more thickly inhabited than some of the fertile 
 tracts in the interior; a circumstance we can only account for, by 
 supposing that the facilities which the former afford for fishing, 
 induce the natives to prefer them as places of abode; for they find 
 that where the coast is low, the adjacent water is generally shallow. 
 
 "We saw several fowls and a few hogs here, but a tolerable number 
 of dogs, and quantities of dried salt fish, principally albicores and 
 bonitos. This latter article, with their poe and sweet potatoes, con- 
 stitutes nearly the entire support of the inhabitants, not only in this 
 vicinity, but on the sea-coasts of the north and south parts of the 
 island. 
 
 DRIED FISH AN ARTICLE OF COMMERCE. 
 
 Besides what is reserved for their own subsistence, they cure large 
 quantities as an article of commerce, which they exchange for the 
 vegetable productions of Hiro and Mamakua, or the mamake and 
 other tapas of Ora and the more fertile districts of Hawaii. 
 
 When we had passed Punau, Leapuki, and Kamomoa, the country 
 began to wear a more agreeable aspect. Groves of cocoa-nuts orna- 
 mented the projecting points of land, clumps of kou-trees appeared 
 in various directions, and the habitations of the natives were also 
 thickly scattered over the coast. 
 
 THE HEIAU OF WAHAULA. 
 
 At noon we passed through Pulana, where we saw a large heiau 
 called "Wahaura, Eed Mouth, or Ked-feathcr Mouth, built by 
 Tamehameha, and dedicated to Tairi, his war-god. Human sacrifices, 
 we were informed, were occasionally offered here.
 
 204 
 
 Shortly after, we reached Kupahua, a pleasant village, situated on a 
 rising ground, in the midst of groves of shady trees, and surrounded 
 by a well-cultivated country. Here we stopped, and, having collected 
 the people of the village, I preached to them. They afterwards 
 proposed several interesting inquiries connected with what they had 
 heard, and said it was a good thing for us to aroha, or have com- 
 passion on them. They also asked when we would come again. 
 
 AT KALAPANA — RESIDENCE OP PRIEST KAPIHI. 
 
 Leaving this interesting place, we passed on to Kalapana, a small 
 village on the sea-shore, distingished as the residence of Kapihi, the 
 priest, who, in the days of Tamehameha, told the king, that after 
 death he and all his ancestors would live again on Hawaii. 
 
 We saw a large heiau, of which he was chief priest, but did not see 
 many people in the houses as we passed by. Kapihi had many 
 disciples, who believed, or pretended to believe, his predictions. 
 
 Frequent offerings were made to Kuahairo, his god, at other parts 
 of the island more frequently visited by the king, and this probably 
 drew away many of the people from Kalapana. 
 
 AT KAIMTJ — ROYAL RECEPTION TO MAUAE. 
 
 About three p. m. we approached Kaimu. This was the birth-place 
 of Mauae, and the residence of most of his relations. He was a 
 young man belonging to .the governor, who had been sent with the 
 canoe, and who, since leaving Honuapo, had acted as our guide. He 
 walked before us as we entered the village. The old people from the 
 houses welcomed him as he passed along, and numbers of the young 
 men and women came out to meet him, saluted him by touching 
 noses, and wept for joy at his arrival. Some took off his hat, and 
 crowned him with a garland of flowers; others hung round his neck 
 wreaths of a sweet-scented plant resembling ivy, or necklaces com- 
 posed of the nut of the fragrant pandanus odoratissime. 
 
 When we reached the house where his sister lived, she ran to meet 
 him, threw her arms around his neck, and having affectionately 
 embraced him, walked hand in hand with him through the village. 
 
 Multitudes of young people and children followed, chanting his 
 name, the names of his parents, the place and circumstances of his 
 birth, and the most remarkable events in the history of his family, 
 in a lively song, which, he afterwards informed us, was composed on 
 the occasion of his birth. The following fragments of the commence- 
 ment, which I afterwards wrote down from the mouth of one of his 
 aged relatives who was with us, will suffice as a specimen, as the 
 whole is too Ions; for insertion:
 
 205 
 
 FRAGMENT OF A SONG ON THE NAME OF MAUAE. 
 
 Inoa o Mauae a Para, 
 He aha matou auanei 
 
 Mauae, te wahine horua nui, 
 Wahine maheai pono. 
 
 Tuu ra te Ravaia 
 
 1 ta -wahine maheai, 
 
 I pono wale ai te aina o orua. 
 
 I ravaia te tane, 
 
 I mahe ai te wahine, 
 
 Mahe te ai na te ohua, 
 
 I ai na te puari. 
 
 Malarna te ora na te hoapiriwale. 
 E Mahe ai na Tuitelani. 
 Owerawahie i uta i Tapapala. 
 
 Tupu mau ua ore te pari. 
 
 Oneanea te aina o Tuaehu. 
 
 Ua tu ra te manu i te pari Ohara- 
 
 hara. 
 Ewaru te po, ewaru te ao, 
 Ua pau te aho o na hoa maheai, 
 
 I te tarni wale i te rau, a maloa. 
 
 Ua mate i te la, 
 Ua tu nevaneva. 
 I ta matani, ua ino auaurere, 
 
 Ua tu ta repo i Hiona : 
 
 Pura ta onohi i ta u i ta repo. 
 
 Tauai, O Tauai, aroha wale 
 Te aina i roto o te tai, 
 
 E noho marie oe I roto o te tai, 
 
 E hariu ai te aro i rehua. 
 
 Pura ta onohi i ta matani, 
 Ta tatau ta iri onionio, 
 
 Ta repo a Tau i Pohaturoa, 
 
 Te a i Ohiaotalani. 
 
 Ma tai te aranui e hiti ai 
 
 1 te one i Taimu, 
 Ma uta i ta tuahivi, 
 Te aranui i hunaia. 
 Narowale Tirauea i te ino. 
 Noho Pele i Tirauea, 
 
 I tahu mau ana i te rua. 
 
 Name of Mauae, 1 (son) of Para, 
 
 How shall we dnclare ? 
 
 O Mauae, woman famous at horua, 
 
 Woman tilling well the ground. 
 
 Give the fisherman, 
 
 To the woman (who) tilleth the ground; 
 
 Happy will be the land of you two. 
 
 A fisherman the husband, 
 
 The wife a tiller of the ground. 
 
 Cultivated food for the aged, and the 
 young ; 
 
 Food for the company of favourite war- 
 riors. 
 
 Regarded the life of the friend. 
 
 Cultivated for Tuitelani. 3 
 
 Burnt were the woods inland of Tapa- 
 pala. 
 
 Long parched had been the precipice. 
 
 Lonely was the land of Tuaehu. 
 
 The bird perched on Oharahara rooks. 
 
 Eight the nights, eight the days. 
 Gone was the breath of those who help 
 
 the tillage, 
 With planting herbs (they) were 
 
 fatigued; 
 Fainting under the sun, 
 (They) looked anxiously around. 
 By the wind, the flying scudding 
 
 tempest, 
 Thrown up was the earth (or dust) at 
 
 Hiona : 
 Red were the eye-balls with the dust. 
 O Tauai. 4 O Tauai, loved he 
 The land in the midst of the sea, 
 Thou dwellest quietly in the midst of 
 
 the sea, 
 And turnest thy face to the pleasant 
 
 wind, 
 Red were the eye balls with the wind, 
 i Of those) whose skin was spotted with 
 
 tatau, 
 The sand of Taii (lay) at Pohaturoa, 5 
 Tii. lava at Ohiaotalani." 
 By the sea was the road to arrive 
 AI the sandy beach of Taimu, 
 Inland by the mountain ridges, 
 The path that was concealed. 
 His was Tirauea 7 by the temp 
 
 Pele 8 abode in Tirauea, 
 
 In the i>it, ever feeding the fires. 
 
 'Mother of the young man. 2 Horua, a native game. 'Name of a chief. 
 *At00i. '■ Districts. "North peak of the volcano. ' The great volcano 
 deal of volcanoes.
 
 20G 
 
 They continued chanting their song, and thus we passed through 
 their plantations, and groves of cocoanut trees, till we reached his 
 father's house, where a general effusion of affection and joy pre- 
 sented itself, which it was impossible to witness without delight. 
 
 MAUAE'S FAMILY REUNION. 
 
 A number of children, who ran on before, had announced his ap- 
 proach; his father, followed by his brothers and several other rela- 
 tions, came out to meet him, and, under the shade of a wide-spreading 
 kou-tree, fell on his neck, and wept aloud for some minutes; after 
 which they took him by the hand, and led him through a neat little 
 garden into the house. 
 
 He seated himself on a mat on the floor, while his brothers and 
 sisters gathered around him; some unlossed his sandals, and rubbed 
 his limbs and feet; others clasped his hand, frequently saluting it 
 by touching it with their nose; others brought him a calabash of 
 water, or a lighted tobacco pipe. 
 
 One of his sisters, in particular, seemed much affected; she clasped 
 his hand, and sat for some time weeping by his side. At this we 
 should have been surprised, had we not known it to be the usual man- 
 ner, among the South Sea Islanders, of expressing unusual joy or 
 grief. In the present instance, it was the unrestrained expression 
 of joyful feelings. Indeed, every one seemed at a loss how to mani- 
 fest the sincere pleasure which his unexpected arrival, after several 
 years' absence, had produced. 
 
 WELL PROVIDED FOR WITH FOOD AND FRESH WATER. 
 
 On first reaching the house, we had thrown ourselves down on a 
 mat, and remained silent spectators, not, however, without being 
 considerably affected by the interesting scene. 
 
 We had been sitting in the house about an hour, when a small 
 hog, baked under-ground, with some good sweet potatoes, was brought 
 in for dinner, of which we were kindly invited to partake. As 
 there was also plenty of good fresh water here, we found ourselves 
 more comfortably provided for than we had been since leaving Ka- 
 papala on Thursday last. 
 
 At six o'clock in the evening, we sent to collect the people of the 
 village to hear preaching. Between three and four hundred assem- 
 bled, under a clump of shady cordia trees, in front of the house, 
 and I preached to them from Psalm xxii. verses 27 and 28. 
 
 Our singing appeared to interest them, as well as other parts of 
 the service, and at the conclusion several exclaimed, "Jehovah is a 
 good God; I desire him for my God."
 
 207 
 
 About this time Makoa arrived with our baggage. We were glad 
 to see him, and inquired where he had been during the past week? 
 He said he remained only one night at Honuapo, and followed on the 
 next morning; observing, at the same time, we must have travelled 
 fast, or he should have been here before us, as he had not gone 
 round by the volcano, but had proceeded in a straight line from 
 Kapapala to Kearakomo. 
 
 NATIVE TRADITIONS CONCERNING THE VOLCANO. 
 
 The evenings we spent with the people of the place in conversa- 
 tion on various subjects, but principally respecting the volcano which 
 we had recently visited. They corroborated the accounts we had 
 before heard, by telling us it had been burning from time imme- 
 morial, and added, that eruptions from it had taken place during 
 every king's reign, whose name was preserved in tradition, or song, 
 from Akea, first king of the island, down to the present monarch. 
 
 Kaimu, the district where we were, was overflowed in the days of 
 Arapai, but how many generations it was since he reigned, we could 
 not learn, as they were not agreed about it among themselves. 
 
 They also repeated the account of the inundation of Kearaara, and 
 the low land of Kapapala, five moons ago, and some of them told us 
 they had seen the large rock carried out into the sea at Mahuka. 
 Like the people of Kearakomo, they believed Kirauea to be the abode 
 of supernatural beings. 
 
 They recapitulated the contest between Pele and Tamapuaa, and 
 related the adventures of several warriors, who, with spear in hand, 
 had opposed the volcanic demons when coming down on a torrent of 
 lava. They could not believe that we had descended into the crater, 
 or broken off pieces of Pele's houses, as they called the small craters, 
 until the specimens of lava, &c. were produced, when some of them 
 looked very significantly, and none of them cared much to handle 
 them. 
 
 We tried to convince them of their mistake in supposing Kirauea 
 was inhabited, and unfolded to them, in as simple a manner as pos- 
 sible, the nature of volcanoes, and of their various phenomena, assur- 
 ing them, at the same time, that they were under the sovereign con- 
 trol of Jehovah, the only true God. Some said, "Ae paha," "Yes, 
 perhaps;" others were silent. 
 
 PREACHING AND TALKING AT KAIMU. 
 
 Numbers of the people were present at our evening worship, which 
 we conducted in their language. 
 
 After a very comfortable night's rest, we arose at daybreak on the 
 5th.
 
 208 
 
 At sun-rise the people assembled more numerously than they had 
 done on the preceding evening, and I preached to them from these 
 words, — "Herein is love, not that we loved God, but that he loved us, 
 and sent his Son to be the propitiation for our sins." They appeared 
 to listen with interest, and numbers s^at down under the kou-trees, 
 talking among themselves on the subject, for a long time after the 
 services had closed. 
 
 After breakfast we walked through the district, entered several of 
 the cottages, and talked with the people. 
 
 GREAT EARTHQUAKE AT KAIMU IN 1823. 
 
 We also examined the effects of an earthquake experienced in this 
 place about two months before. We were informed that it took place 
 about ten o'clock in the evening. The ground, after being agitated 
 some minutes with a violent tremulous motion, suddenly burst open, 
 for several miles in extent, in a direction from north by east, to 
 south by west, and emitted, in various places at the same instant, 
 a considerable quantity of smoke and luminous vapour, but none of the 
 people were injured by it. 
 
 A stone wall, four feet thick and six feet high, enclosing a garden 
 at the north end of the village, was thrown down. 
 
 A chasm about a foot wide marked distinctly its course; this was 
 generally open, though in some places it seemed as if the earth had 
 closed up again. 
 
 AN EARTHQUAKE CHASM. 
 
 We entered a house, sixteen feet by twelve in the inside, through 
 which it had passed. Ten persons, viz. one man, six women, and 
 three children, were asleep here at the time it occurred. They were 
 lying on both sides of the house, with their heads towards the centre; 
 some of them very near the place where the ground was rent open. 
 The trembling of the ground, they said, awoke them, but before 
 they could think what it was that had disturbed them, the earth 
 opened with a violent percussion; a quantity of sand and dust was 
 thrown up with violence, and smoke and steam were at the same time 
 emitted. 
 
 After a short interval, a second percussion was felt, vapour again 
 arose, and at the opposite end of the house to that in which they 
 were lying, they saw a light blue flame, which almost instantly dis- 
 appeared. 
 
 We asked them if they were not alarmed? They said they were at 
 first, but after remaining awake some time, and finding the shock 
 was not repeated, they lay down and slept till morning, when 
 they filled up the fissure with grass and earth!
 
 209 
 
 We examined the aperture, that still remained open at one end of 
 the house, and found its sides perpendicular, and its breadth one foot 
 and eleven inches. The north-west corner of the house was broken by 
 the shock. 
 
 TRACING THE EARTHQUAKE CRACK. 
 
 We next traced its course through the fields of potatoes. In some 
 places the ground seemed hardly disturbed, yet it sunk six or eight 
 inches beneath our tread. At other places we saw apertures upwards 
 of two feet wide. The potatoes that were growing immediately in 
 the direction of the fissure, were all spoiled. Several roots of consid- 
 erable size were thrown out of the ground, and, according to the 
 representations of the natives, appeared as if they had been scorched. 
 
 At the south end of the village, it had passed through a small 
 well, in which originally there was seldom more than eighteen inches' 
 depth of water, though since that period there has been upwards of 
 three feet. 
 
 The crack was about ten inches wide, running from north to south 
 across the bottom of the well. The water has not only increased in 
 quantity, but suffered a great deterioration in quality, being now 
 very salt; and its rising and falling with the ebbing and flowing of 
 the tide, indicates its connexion with the waters of the ocean, from 
 which it is distant about 300 yards. 
 
 Convulsions of this kind are common over the whole island: they 
 are not, however, so frequent in this vicinity as in the northern and 
 western parts, and are seldom violent, except when they immediately 
 precede the eruption of a volcano. 
 
 The superstitions of the natives lead them to believe they are pro- 
 duced by the power of Pele, or some of the volcanic deities, and con- 
 sider them as requisitions for offerings, or threatenings of still greater 
 calamities. 
 
 DESCRIPTION AND POPULATION OP KAIMU AND MAKENA. 
 
 In the afternoon, Messrs. Thurston and Bishop walked over to 
 Makena, a pleasant village about a mile to the southward of Kaimu, 
 where they collected about one hundred people, to whom Mr. Thurs- 
 ton preached in one of their houses. A greater number would prob- 
 ably have attended, but for the rain which fell during most of the 
 afternoon. Mr. Bishop numbered the houses in the village, and found 
 them, including Makena, to be 145. 
 
 Kaimu is pleasantly situated near the sea shore, on the S. E. side 
 of the island, standing on a bed of lava considerably decomposed, 
 and covered over with a light and fertile soil. It is adorned with 
 plantations, groves of cocoa-nuts, and clumps of kou-trees. It has a 
 
 14
 
 210 
 
 fine Bandy beach, where canoes may land with safety; and, according 
 to the houses numbered to-day, contains about 725 inhabitants. 
 
 Including the villages in its immediate vicinity, along the coast, 
 the population would probably amount to 2000; and, if water could 
 be procured near at hand, it would form an eligible missionary 
 station. 
 
 There are several wells in the village, containing brackish water, 
 which has passed from the sea, through the cells of the lava, under- 
 going a kind of nitration, and is collected in hollows scooped out to 
 receive it. 
 
 The natives told us, that, at the distance of about a mile there was 
 plenty of fresh water. 
 
 KAIMU NATIVES SOBER AND INDUSTRIOUS. 
 
 The extent of cultivation in the neighbourhood, together with the 
 decent and orderly appearance of the people, induced us to think 
 they are more sober and industrious than those of many villages 
 through which we have passed. 
 
 The rain continuing through the afternoon, prevented our preach- 
 ing to the people, but many, influenced probably by motives of 
 curiosity, collected in the house where we lodged, in conversation with 
 whom we passed the evening. 
 
 Their ignorance and superstition awakened lively sympathy in our 
 minds. They are still "without God in the world," and are satis- 
 fied with their state. 
 
 RELIGIOUS BELIEFS AND THEORIES. 
 
 Like the inhabitants of Honuapo and Kapauku, and most of those 
 we had conversed with on the subject, they rejoiced in the abolition 
 of the national idolatry. Its general features precluded their ever 
 contemplating it with pleasure or satisfaction, and every memento 
 that remains, only serves to awaken the recollection of its cruelty, 
 and the oppressive bondage under which they were enslaved while it 
 continued. From this they feel themselves emancipated, and seem 
 also to enjoy, in some degree, the social and domestic comfort re- 
 sulting from their dwelling together in one house, sitting down to 
 the same repast, and eating the same kind of food. But though they 
 approved of the destruction of the national idols, many were far, from 
 having renounced idolatry, and were in general destitute of all 
 knowledge of that dispensation of grace and truth which came by 
 Jesus Christ. They related many tales about their gods, and seemed 
 firm believers in the existence of deities in the volcanoes.
 
 211 
 NATIVE THEORIES CONCERNING LIFE AFTER DEATH. 
 
 Bespecting family idols, the natives in general suppose that after 
 the death of any member of a family, the spirit of the departed 
 hovers about the places of its former resort, appears to the survivors 
 sometimes in a dream, and watches over their destinies; hence they 
 worship an image with which they imagine the spirit is in some way 
 connected. 
 
 We endeavoured to convince them of their mistake respecting the 
 objects of their worship, spoke to them of Jehovah, the only being to 
 whom religious homage should be rendered, and of that life and 
 immortality revealed in the sacred scriptures. 
 
 Before we retired, we wrote a letter to the governor, informing 
 him of our progress, the hospitality of the people in general, and 
 the kind attention we had received from Mauae, who intended to 
 return from this place to Kairua. 
 
 At daybreak on the 6th, Mauae and his family united with us in 
 our morning worship, after which we recommended him to improve 
 the time he might spend here, in teaching his brothers and sisters 
 to read and write, in telling them of the true God, and persuading 
 them, and the people of the place, to avoid intoxication and every 
 other vice, and to regard the sabbath-day by refraining from labour 
 and amusement. He promised to try what he could do; and, when 
 we had taken leave of the family, he walked with us through the 
 village, pointed out the best road, then gave us his parting aroha, 
 and returned to his house. 
 
 DISCUSSIONS WITH THE NATIVES AT KEOUOHANA. 
 
 After travelling nearly two hours, we arrived at Keouohana, where 
 we sat down to rest beneath the shade of some cocoa-nut trees. 
 
 Makoa, our guide, spoke to the head man, and he directed the 
 people to collect near his house. About 100 soon assembled, and when 
 we had explained to them in few words, the object of our visit, we 
 requested them to sit down, and listen to the tidings we had brought. 
 They immediately obeyed. 
 
 We sang a hymn in their language, after which an address was 
 given, and the service concluded in the usual manner. As soon as 
 it was finished, they began to talk about what we had told them. 
 Some said it was very good: they had never heard before of a God 
 who had sent his Son to save men. Others said, it was very well 
 for the haore (foreigners) to believe it, but Tane, Bono, Tanaroa, 
 and Tu, were the gods of the Sandwich Islanders. 
 
 Makoa, who was a chief speaker among them on such occasions, 
 ssi.i<l they must all attend to the new word, must forsake thieving 
 and drunkenness, infanticide and murder, and do no work on the
 
 212 
 
 la tabu, (day sacred;) adding, at the same time, that the king had 
 received the palapala, books, &c. and went to church on the sacred 
 day, as did also Kuakini, the governor. 
 
 The head man brought us some ripe plantains, of which we ate a 
 few, and then proceeded on our way, leaving them busy in conversa- 
 tion about the news they had heard; which, in all probability, were 
 "strange things" to their ears. 
 
 AT KEHENA — AN INGENIOUS LANDING DEVICE. 
 
 After travelling a mile and a half along the shore, we came to 
 Kehena, a populous village; the people seemed, from the number of 
 their canoes, nets, &c. to be much engaged in fishing. Their con- 
 trivance for launching and landing their canoes, was curious and 
 singular. 
 
 The bold coast is formed of perpendicular or overhanging rocks, 
 from forty to sixty feet high, against which, this being the wind- 
 ward part of the island, the swell beats violently. 
 
 In one place, where there were a few low rocks about thirty feet 
 from the shore, they had erected a kind of ladder. Two long poles, 
 one tied to the end of the other, reached from these rocks to the 
 top of the cliffs. Two other poles, tied together in the same manner, 
 were fixed parallel to the first two, and about four or five feet distant 
 from them. Strong sticks, eight or ten feet long, were laid across 
 these at right angles, and about two or three inches apart, which 
 being fastened to the long poles with ie, (the tough fibrous roots of a 
 climbing sort of plant, which they find in the woods,) formed the 
 steps of this ingenious and useful ladder. 
 
 LANDING OF THE CANOES. 
 
 The canoes of the place were light and small, seldom carrying more 
 than one man in each. A number were just landing, as we arrived at 
 the place. Two men went down, and stood close to the water's edge, 
 on the leeward or southern side of the rock. 
 
 The canoes were paddled up one at a time. The person in each, 
 then watching a convenient opportunity, rowed swiftly to shore, when 
 the rolling billow carried the canoe upon the rock, and it was seized 
 by two men who stood there to receive it. At the same instant that it 
 was grasped on each side by the men on the rock, the one in the canoe, 
 who steered it, jumped into the sea, swam to the shore, and assisted 
 them in carrying it up the ladder to the top of the cliff, where' they 
 placed it upon curiously carved stools, made of the wood of the 
 erythrina, and returned to the rock to await the arrival of another 
 canoe. In this way five or six were brought up while we stood 
 looking at them, and I took a sketch of their useful contrivance.
 
 213 
 
 We then walked to the house of the head man, which was large, and 
 contained several families. A number of people soon gathered round 
 us; and when they had expressed their wishes to hear what we had 
 to say, I addressed them on the subject of our religion. 
 
 HOSPITABLE RECEPTION AT KAMAILI. 
 
 Leaving Kehena, we walked on to Kamaili, a pleasant village, 
 standing in a gently sloping valley, cultivated and shaded by some 
 large cocoa-nut trees. Here we stopped to take breakfast, having 
 travelled about four hours and a half. The hospitable inhabitants, at 
 the request of our guide, soon brought us some fresh fish, a nice pig, 
 with potatoes and taro, and a calabash of good water. 
 
 The people who were not employed on their plantations, or in 
 fishing, afterwards assembled, and were addressed from Psalm lxvii. 7. 
 Considerable conversation followed, and they detained us some time 
 to answer their questions, or to explain more fully the things that 
 had been spoken. It was truly gratifying to notice the eagerness with 
 which they proposed their inquiries. After spending about half an 
 hour in endeavouring to satisfy 200 or 300 of them, we took leave, 
 and pursued our journey. 
 
 Our path from Kaimu had been smooth and pleasant, but shortly 
 after leaving Kamaili, we passed a very rugged tract of lava nearly 
 four miles across. The lava seemed as if broken to pieces as it cooled; 
 it had continued to roll on like a stream of large scoria, or cinders. 
 Our progress across it was slow and fatiguing. 
 
 On our way, our guide pointed out Karepa, an ancient heiau, for- 
 merly dedicated to Tu and Eono, and built in the days of Teavemau- 
 hiri, or Tanakini, king of this part of the island. We could not learn 
 whether this was the heiau of Rono, in which the bones of Captain 
 Cook were deposited, and worshipped. 
 
 MEETING THE NATIVES AT OPIHIKAO. 
 
 About half-past one, we arrived at Opihikao, another populous vil- 
 lage, situated within a short distance of the sea. The head man, Ka- 
 raikoa, brought out a mat, spread it under the umbrageous shade of a 
 kou-tree in front of his door, and invited us to sit down and rest, as 
 the sun was vertical, and travelling laborious. We seated ourselves 
 beside him, and, so soon as he learned from Maltoa the nature of our 
 errand, he sent of his own accord, and collected the people to hear 
 what we had to say to them. 
 
 When they had assembled, we stood up and sung a hymn, after 
 which one of our number preached to them frrom Job xxi. 15. It 
 was undoubtedly the first time most, if not all of them, tad attended a 
 meeting of the kind; and the preacher was frequently interrupted
 
 214 
 
 by several, who exclaimed, "Owau knhi e malama ia Jehova, — e ake 
 au i ora ia Jesu Kraist:" I am one that will serve Jehovah; — I 
 desire to be saved by Jesus Christ. 
 
 We invited them to ask us any question respecting what they had 
 heard; and, in answering those they proposed, we spent some time 
 after the service was concluded. 
 
 THROUGH KAUAEA AND MALAMA — RECENT ERUPTION THERE. 
 
 We then proceeded about two miles, principally through cultivated 
 grounds, to Kauaea. About 300 people, excited by curiosity, soon col- 
 lected around us, to whom Mr. Thurston preached. 
 
 We afterwards sat down and talked with them, and then resumed 
 our journey through the district of Malama, the inland part of which 
 was inundated by a volcanic eruption about thirty years since. The 
 part over which we passed, being nearer the sea than that which 
 the lava had overflowed, was covered with soil, and smiling with 
 verdure. 
 
 AT KEAHIALAKA. 
 
 Near five p. m. we reached Keahialaka, the residence of Kinao, 
 chief or governor of Puna. We found him lying on a couch of 
 sickness, and felt anxious to administer to his comfort, yet did not 
 like at so early an hour to halt altogether for the night. I there- 
 fore remained with the sick chief, while Messrs. Thurston and 
 Bishop went on to a village at the east point, about two miles distant. 
 
 When they reached Pualaa, the above-mentioned village, they were 
 kindly welcomed by the head man, who soon had the people of the 
 plaoe collected at their request, and to them Mr. Thurston proclaimed 
 the news of salvation through Jesus Christ. The chief furnished the 
 travellers with a hospitable supper and comfortable lodgings. 
 
 DISCUSSIONS WITH A SICK CHIEF. 
 
 Just before the setting of the sun, I preached to the people at the 
 village where I was staying, and spent the evening with the chief, 
 who was afflicted with a pulmonary complaint, and almost reduced to a 
 skeleton, earnestly recommending him to fly to Jesus, the great 
 physician of souls. He seemed at first much attached to the super- 
 stitions of his ancestors, said he had performed every ceremony that 
 he thought likely to be of any avail, and would do any thing to live; 
 but added, E make paha auanei, Perhaps I must soon die. 
 
 The love of the Saviour, and his suitableness to the situation of the 
 poor chief, were pointed out, and he was requested rather to seek 
 unto Him for the salvation of his soul, than to priests, and the incan- 
 tations of sorcerers, for the prolongation of his mortal life, which,
 
 215 
 
 although of infinitely less moment than the well-being of his soul, 
 was yet entirely beyond their power. He listened attentively, and at 
 a late hour requested me to pray for him to Jesus Christ. The 
 family collected during the time of prayer, at the close of which the 
 chief lay down on his mat, but said he could not sleep. 
 
 We were fatigued with the labours of the day, though we had not 
 travelled so far as usual. The country had been much more populous 
 than any we had passed since leaving Kona, and we felt thankful 
 for the opportunities that we had this day enjoyed of speaking to 
 so many about those things which concern their everlasting peace. 
 Maj' the Holy Spirit water the seed this day sown! 
 
 Messrs. Thurston and Bishop conducted the usual worship with the 
 people, who, at an early hour the next morning, crowded the house 
 where they had lodged, — I spent some time in endeavoring to inform 
 the dark mind of the dying chief, on points of the last importance, 
 again directed him to that compassionate Saviour, who invites all to 
 come unto him, receives even those who apply at the eleventh hour, 
 and is able to save to the uttermost those who trust in his mercy. 
 I afterwards prayed with him and his family, and then bade them 
 farewell. 
 
 SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES CONCERNING SICKNESS. 
 
 The situation of Kinao was affecting. He appeared in the midst of 
 his days, probably not more than thirty or forty years of age; and 
 though formerly robust and healthy, he was now pale, emaciated, 
 and reduced almost to a skeleton. Enveloped in all the darkness of 
 paganism, and perhaps agitated with fearful uncertainties respecting 
 a future state, he clung eagerly to life, yet seemed to feel a convic- 
 tion of his approaching end daily increasing. Like his countrymen in 
 general, he supposed his disease inflicted in consequence of the prayers 
 of some malicious enemy, or the vindictive displeasure of the gods 
 of his country; hence he had consulted the sorcerers, expended on 
 them his property, and attended to all their injunctions, if by any 
 means his life might be spared. 
 
 The popular superstitions of the islanders lead them to imagine, 
 that an individual who possesses the means of employing a sorcerer, 
 may afflict with painful disease, and even occasion the death of, any 
 person against whom he may indulge feelings of hatred or revenge. 
 
 They also believe that the sorcerers, by certain incantations, can 
 discover the author or cause of the disease, and refer it back to the 
 party with whom it originated. So prevalent are these aotions, that 
 the people generally believe every individual, who does not meet his 
 death by some act of violence, is destroyed by the immediate power 
 of an unpropitious deity, l>y poison, or the incantations of the sorcer- 
 ers employed by some cruel enemy.
 
 216 
 TOWERS AND CEREMONIES OF THE SORCERERS. 
 
 This belief gives the sorcerers great influence among the middling 
 and lower orders; and in times of protracted sickness, their aid is 
 almost invariably sought by all who can procure a dog and a fowl 
 for the sacrifice, and a piece or two of tapa as a fee for the priest. 
 
 A dog and a fowl are all that are necessary for the ceremony; 
 but the offerings to the god, and the fees to the priest, are regulated 
 according to the wealth or rank of the individuals on whose behalf 
 the aid of sorcery is employed. 
 
 The ceremonies performed are various; but the most general is the 
 kuni ahi, broiling fire, a kind of anaana, or sorcery, used to discover 
 the person whose incantation has induced the illness of the party for 
 whom it is performed. 
 
 When a chief wishes to resort to it, he sends for a priest, who, on 
 his arrival, receives a number of hogs, dogs, and fowls, together with 
 several bundles of tapa. 
 
 Before he commences any of his operations, all persons, except 
 the parties immediately concerned, retire from the house, which the 
 priest tabu's, and prohibits strangers from entering. 
 
 He then kindles a small fire somewhere near the couch of the in- 
 valid, and covers it with stones. This being done, he kills one of 
 the dogs by strangling it, and cuts off the head of one of the fowls, 
 muttering all the while his prayers to the god he invokes. 
 
 INCANTATIONS OF THE SORCERERS. 
 
 The dog, fowl, and pig, if there be one, are then cut open, em- 
 bowelled, and laid on the heated stones, the priest continuing hia 
 incantations, and watching, at the same time, the offerings broiling 
 on the fire. 
 
 A small part only of these offerings are eaten by the priest, the 
 rest remain on the fire until consumed, when the priest lies down 
 to sleep; and if his prayers are answered, he informs the poor 
 sufferer, on awaking, who or what is the cause of his sickness. 
 
 Additional presents are then made to the god, and other prayers 
 offered, that the sickness may seize the person whose incantations in 
 the first instance caused it, or, if in consequence of any delinquency 
 towards the god on the part of the sufferer, that he would abate his 
 anger, and remove the disease. 
 
 But if, during his sleep, the priest has no revelation or dream, he 
 informs his employers, on awaking, that he has not succeeded, and 
 that another kuni ahi must be prepared, before he can satisfy them 
 respecting the cause of the sickness. On such occasions the unsuc- 
 cessful priest is often dismissed, and another sent for, to try his in- 
 fluence with the god.
 
 217 
 
 Different priests employ different prayers or incantations, and are 
 careful to keep the knowledge of them confined to their families, as 
 each one supposes, or wishes the people to think, his own form the 
 best; hence we have often heard the natives, when talking on the 
 subject, say, "He pule mana ko me," A powerful prayer has such 
 a one: — and the priest or sorcerer who is supposed to have most in- 
 fluence with the god, is most frequently employed by the people, and 
 hence derives the greatest emoluments from his profession. 
 
 Though Uri is the principal god of the sorcerers, each tribe has its 
 respective deities for these occasions. Thus the poor deluded people 
 are led to imagine that the beings they worship are continually 
 exerting their power against each other; or that the same god who, 
 when a small offering only was presented, would allow sickness to 
 continue till death should destroy the victim of his displeasure, would, 
 for a larger offering, restrain his anger and withdraw the disease. 
 
 The sorcerers were a distinct class among the priests of the island, 
 and their art appears to claim equal antiquity with the other parts 
 of that cruel system of idolatry by which the people have been so 
 long oppressed; and though it has survived the destruction of the 
 national idolatry, and is still practised by many, it is entirely dis- 
 continued by the principal chiefs in every island, and by all who 
 attend to Christian instruction. 
 
 AT PUALAA— DISCUSSION WITH THREE PRIESTS. 
 
 It was about eight o'clock in the morning of the 7th when I joined 
 Messrs. Thurston and Bishop at Pualaa, where we took breakfast, 
 and afterwards spent the forenoon in conversation with the natives 
 who thronged around us. 
 
 Two or three old men, whom we afterwards learned were priests, 
 seemed to dispute what we said about Jehovah's being the only true 
 God, and the Christian the only true religion. They said they thought 
 their tao (traditions) respecting Tu, Tanaroa, Eono, or Orono, and 
 Tairi, were as authentic as the accounts in our book, though ours, 
 from the circumstance of their being written, or, as they expressed 
 it, "hana paia i ka palapala, " (made fast on the paper,) were bet- 
 ter preserved, and more akaaka, clear, or generally intelligible. 
 
 To this we replied at some length, after which the old men ceased 
 to object, but continued to withhold their assent. Numbers sat 
 around, and seemed interested in the discussion. We continued 
 talking to them on the subject of their traditions, one of which we 
 wrote down as they repeated it. 
 
 LAVA FLOW DURING TIME OF CAPT. COOK. 
 
 About half-past eleven we took leave of them, and directed our 
 way across the eastern point. A most beautiful and romantic
 
 218 
 
 landscape presented itself on our left, as we travelled out of Pualaa. 
 The lava was covered with a tolerably thick layer of soil, and the 
 verdant plain, extending several miles towards the foot of the moun- 
 tains, was agreeably diversified by groups of picturesque hills, origi- 
 nally craters, but now clothed with -grass, and ornamented with 
 chimps of trees. 
 
 The natives informed us, that three of these groups, Honuaura, 
 Malama, and Mariu, being contiguous, and joined at their base, 
 arrested the progress of an immense torrent of lava, which, in the 
 days of Taraiopu, the friend of Captain Cook, inundated all the 
 country beyond them. We soon left this cheerful scenery, and en- 
 tered a rugged tract of lava, over which we continued our way 
 till about two p. m., when we reached Kapoho. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF KAPOHO AND GREEN LAKE CRATER. 
 
 A cluster, apparently of hills three or four miles round, and as 
 many hundred feet high, with deep indented sides, overhung with 
 trees, and clothed with herbage, standing in the midst of the barren 
 plain of lava, attracted our attention. 
 
 We walked through the gardens that encircled its base, till we 
 reached the S. E. side, where it was much lower than on the northern 
 parts. Here we ascended what appeared to us to be one of the hills, 
 and, on reaching the summit, were agreeably surprised to behold a 
 charming valley opening before us. It was circular, and open 
 towards the sea. 
 
 The outer boundary of this natural amphitheatre was formed by 
 an uneven ridge of rocks, covered with soil and vegetation. Within 
 these there was a smaller circle of hills, equally verdant, and orna- 
 mented with trees. The sides of the valley, which gradually sloped 
 from the foot of the hills, were almost entirely laid out in plantations, 
 and enlivened by the cottages of their proprietors. 
 
 In the centre was an oval hollow, about half a mile cross, and 
 probably two hundred feet deep, at the bottom of which was a beau- 
 tiful lake of brackish water, whose margin was in a high state of 
 cultivation, planted with taro, bananas, and sugar-cane. 
 
 The steep perpendicular rocks, forming the sides of the hollow, 
 were adorned with tufts of grass, or blooming pendulous plants, while, 
 along the narrow and verdant border of the lake at the bottom, the 
 bread-fruit, the kukui, and the ohia trees, appeared, with now and 
 then a lowly native hut standing beneath their shade. 
 
 A SCENE OP BEAUTY. 
 
 We walked to the upper edge of the rocks that form the side of the 
 hollow, where we viewed with pleasure this singularly beautiful scene.
 
 219 
 
 The placid surface of the lake, disturbed only by the boys and girls 
 diving and sporting in its waters, the serpentine walks among the 
 luxuriant gardens along its margin, the tranquil occupations of the in- 
 habitants, some weaving mats, others walking cheerfully up and down 
 the winding path among the steep rocks, the sound of the cloth-beat- 
 ing mallet from several directions, and the smiling gaiety of the 
 whole, contrasted strongly with the panorama we had recently beheld 
 at Kirauea. Yet we felt persuaded, that this now cheerful spot 
 had once presented a similar spectacle, less extended, but equally 
 grand and appalling. 
 
 TRADITIONS OF THE NATIVES CONCERNING KAPOHO. 
 
 The traditions of the people informed us, that the valley itself 
 was originally a crater, the indented rocks along the outer ridge 
 forming its rim, and the opening towards the sea its mouth. But had 
 tradition been silent, the volcanic nature of the rocks, which were 
 basaltic, or of compact lava in some parts and cellular in others, the 
 structure of the large basin in which we were standing, and the deep 
 hollow in the centre which we were viewing, would have carried 
 conviction to the mind of every beholder, that it had once been the 
 seat of volcanic fires. 
 
 We asked several natives of the place, if they had any account of 
 the king in whose reign it had burned; or if they knew any songs 
 or traditions, in which it was stated how many kings had reigned in 
 Hawaii, or how many chiefs had governed Puna, either since it first 
 broke out, or since it became extinct; but they could give us no in- 
 formation on these subjects. 
 
 They told us the name of the place was Kapoho (the sunken in,) 
 and of the lake, Ka wai a Pele (the water of Pele). 
 
 The saltness of the water in this extinguished volcano proves the 
 connexion of the lake with the sea, from which it is about a mile 
 distant; but we could not learn that it was at all affected by the 
 rising or falling of the tides. 
 
 GAME OP HORUA, OR SLEDDING, DESCRIBED. 
 
 The natives also told us that it was one of the places from which 
 the volcanic goddess threw rocks and lavn utter Kahavari, for refus- 
 ing his papa, or sledge, when playing at horua. 
 
 The horua has for many generations been a popular amusement 
 throughout the Sandwich [elands, and is still practised Ln several 
 places. It consists in sliding down a hill OH a narrow sledge, and 
 those who, by strength or skill in balancing themselves, slide farthest, 
 are considered victorious.
 
 220 
 
 The papa, or sledge, is composed of two narrow runners, from seven 
 to twelve or eighteen feet long, two or three inches deep, highly 
 polished, and at the foremost end tapering off from the under side 
 to a point at the upper edge. These two runners are fastened to- 
 gether by a number of short pieces of wood laid horizontally across. 
 To the upper edge of these short pieces two long tough sticks are 
 fastened, extending the whole length of the cross pieces, and about 
 five or six inches apart. 
 
 Sometimes a narrow piece of matting is fastened over the whole 
 upper surface, except three or four feet at the foremost end, though 
 in general only a small part for the breast to rest on is covered. 
 
 At the foremost end there is a space of about two inches between 
 the runners, but they widen gradually towards the hinder part, where 
 they are distant from each other four or five inches. 
 
 The person about to slide grasps the small side-stick firmly with his 
 right hand, somewhere about the middle, runs a few yards to the 
 brow of the hill, or starting-place, where he grasps it with his left 
 hand, and at the same time with all his strength throwing himself 
 forward, falls flat upon it, and slides down the hill, his hands re- 
 taining their hold of the side-sticks, and his feet being fixed against 
 the hindermost cross-piece of the sledge. 
 
 Much practice and address are necessary, to assume and keep an 
 even balance on so narrow a vehicle, yet a man accustomed to the 
 sport will throw himself, with velocity and apparent ease, 150 or 
 200 yards down the side of a gradually sloping hill. 
 
 GAME OP HOLUA AT KULA. 
 
 About three o'clock we resumed our journey, and soon reached 
 Kula, a romantic spot, where Kahavari took leave of his sister. 
 
 The hill on which he was sliding when he incurred the displeasure 
 of the terrible goddess, the spot where he rested, and first saw her 
 pursuing him, were visible; and the traditionary story of his encoun- 
 ter with Pele is so interesting, that we think we shall be pardoned 
 for inserting it. 
 
 In the reign of Keariikukii, an ancient king of Hawaii, Kahavari, 
 chief of Puna, and one of his punahele, (favourite companions,) went 
 one day to amuse themselves at the horua on the sloping side of a 
 hill, which is still called Ka horua-ana o Kahavari, (the sliding place 
 of Kahavari). 
 
 Vast numbers of the people collected at the bottom of the hill, to 
 witness the game; and a company of musicians and dancers repaired 
 to the spot, to add to the amusement of the spectators. The buskined 
 youths had begun their dance, and, amidst the sound of the drums 
 and the songs of the musicians, the horua commenced between Kaha- 
 vari and his favourite.
 
 221 
 
 KAHAVARI' S ADVENTURE WITH PELE. 
 
 Pele, the goddess of the volcano, came down from Kirauea to wit- 
 ness the sport. 
 
 She stood on the top of the hill, in the form of a woman, and chal- 
 lenged Kahavari to slide with her. He accepted the offer, and they 
 set off together down the hill. Pele, less acquainted with the art of 
 balancing herself on the narrow sledge than her rival, was beaten, 
 and Kahavari was applauded by the spectators as he returned up the 
 side of the hill. 
 
 Before they started again, Pele asked him to give her his papa. 
 He, supposing from her appearance that she was no more than a 
 native woman, said, Aore, no! "Are you my wife, that you should 
 obtain my sledge?" and, as if impatient at being delayed, adjusted 
 his papa, ran a few yards to take a spring, and then, with all his 
 strength, threw himself upon it, and shot down the hill. 
 
 PELE MAKES A LAVA FLOW. 
 
 Pele, incensed at his answer, stamped on the ground, and an earth- 
 quake followed, which rent the hill in sunder. She called, and fire 
 and liquid lava arose, and, assuming her supernatural form, with 
 these irresistible ministers of vengeance, she followed down the hill. 
 
 When Kahavari reached the bottom of the hill, he arose, and, on 
 looking behind, saw Pele, accompanied by thunder and lightning, 
 earthquake, and streams of burning lava, closely pursuing him. He 
 took up his broad spear, which he had stuck in the ground at the be- 
 ginning of the game, and, accompanied by his friend, fled for his life. 
 
 The musicians, dancers, and crowds of spectators, were instantly 
 buried beneath the fiery torrent, which bearing on its foremost wave 
 the enraged goddess, continued to pursue Kahavari and his friend. 
 
 They ran till they came to an eminence, called Buukea. Here Kaha- 
 vari threw off his tuiraii, cloak of netted ti leaves, and proceeded 
 towards his house, which stood near the shore. 
 
 KAHAVARI ABANDONS MOTHER, WIFE AND CHILDREN. 
 
 He met his favourite hog Aroipuaa, saluted him by touching noses, 
 and ran to the house of his mother who lived at Kukii, saluted her 
 by touching noses, and said, Aroha ino oe, eia ihonei paha oe e make 
 ai, ke ai mainei Pele: Compassion great to you, close here perhaps is 
 your death; Pele comes devouring. 
 
 Leaving her, he met his wife, Kanakawahine. He saluted her. The 
 burning torrent approached, and she said, "Stay with me here, and 
 let us die together." He said, "No; I go, I go." 
 
 He then saluted his two children Paupouru and EEaohe, and said, 
 "Ke ue nei au ia orua," I grieve for you two.
 
 222 
 
 The lava rolled near, and he ran till a deep chasm arrested his 
 progress. He laid down his spear, and on it walked safely over. His 
 friend called out for his help; he held out his spear over the chasm; 
 his companion took hold of it, and he drew him securely over. 
 
 KAHAVARI ESCAPES. 
 
 By this time Pele was coming down the chasm with accelerated 
 motion. He ran till he reached the place where we were sitting. 
 
 Here he met his sister Koae, but had only time to say, A.roha oe! 
 "Alas for you!" and then ran on to the sea-shore. His younger 
 brother had just landed from his fishing canoe, and had hastened to 
 his house to provide for the safety of his family, when Kahavari 
 arrived; he and his friend leaped into the canoe, and with his broad 
 spear paddled out to sea. 
 
 Pele perceiving his escape, ran to the shore, and hurled after him, 
 with prodigious force, huge stones and fragments of rock, which fell 
 thickly around, but did not strike his canoe. 
 
 A SPECIMEN OF HAWAIIAN TRADITIONS. 
 
 When they had paddled a short distance from the shore, the Kumu- 
 kahi (east wind) sprung up. He fixed his broad spear upright in the 
 canoe, which answering the double purpose of mast and sail, he soon 
 reached the island of Maui. Here they rested one night, and pro- 
 ceeded to Eanai. On the day following he removed to Morokai, and 
 from thence to Oahu, the abode of Koronohairaau his father, and 
 Kanewahinekeaho his sister, to whom he related his disastrous perils, 
 and with whom he took up his permanent abode. 
 
 The above tale is a tolerable specimen of most of their traditions, 
 though it is among the least marvellous of the many fabulous stories 
 we have met with, and the truth may easily be separated from the 
 fiction. 
 
 A sudden and unexpected eruption of a volcano, when a chief and 
 his people were playing at horua, is probably its only foundation. 
 
 ILLUSTRATION OF LOW STATUS OF WOMEN. 
 
 It exhibits, however, much of the general character of the people, 
 the low estimation in which the females were held, and the wretched 
 state of their social and domestic society, in which those fond at- 
 tachments, that in civilized and Christian life endear the different 
 members of kindred and family to each other, appear scarcely to have 
 existed. 
 
 The absence of relative affections shewn by Kahavari, who, not- 
 withstanding the entreaties of his wife, could leave her, his children, 
 his mother, and his sister, to certain destruction, meets with no repre-
 
 223 
 
 hension; neither is any censure passed on his unjust seizure of the 
 canoe belonging to his brother, who was engaged in saving his own 
 family, while his adroitness in escaping the dreadful calamity of 
 which he had been the sole cause, is applauded in terms too indelicate 
 to be recorded. 
 
 The natives pointed out a number of rocks in the sea, which, they 
 said, were thrown by Pele to sink the canoe in which Kahavari 
 escaped. 
 
 KAHAVARI' S HILL — A RUGGED COUNTRY. 
 
 After travelling a short distance, we saw the Bu o Kahavari, (Hill 
 of Kahavari,) the place where he stopped, after sliding down-hill, 
 and perceiving the goddess pursuing him. It was a black frowning 
 crater, about 100 feet high, with a deep gap in its rim on the eastern 
 side, from which the course of the current of lava could be distinctly 
 traced. 
 
 Our way now lay over a very rugged tract of country. Sometimes 
 for a mile or two we were obliged to walk along on the top of a 
 wall four feet high and about three feet wide, formed of fragments 
 of lava that had been collected from the surface of the enclosures 
 which these walls surrounded. We were, however, cheered with a 
 beautiful prospect; for the land, which rose gradually towards the 
 mountains, a few miles to the westward of us, presented an almost 
 enchanting appearance. 
 
 The plain was covered with verdure; and as we advance, a woody 
 eminence, probably some ancient crater, frequently arose from the 
 gently undulated surface, while groups of hills, clothed with trees 
 of various foliage, agreeably diversified the scene. 
 
 The shore, which was about a mile to the eastward of us, was 
 occasionally lined with the spiral pandanus, the waving cocoa-nut 
 grove, or the clustering huts of the natives. 
 
 AT KAHUWAI AND HONOLULU. 
 
 At half-past four we reached Kahuwai, where we sat down and 
 took some refreshment, while Makoa was engaged in bringing the 
 people of the place together. About one hundred and fifty assem- 
 bled around the door, and were addressed. 
 
 After conversing some time, we travelled in an inland direction 
 to llonoruru, a small village situated in the midst of a wood, where 
 we arrived just at the setting of the sun. 
 
 Whilst the kind people at the house where we put up were pre- 
 paring our supper, we sent and invited the inhabitants of the nexi 
 village to come and hear the word we had to speak to them. They 
 soon arrived; the large house in which we had taken up our lodg-
 
 224 
 
 ings was filled, and a discourse was delivered from John xii. 46. 
 "I am come a light into the world," &c. 
 
 RELIGIOUS SERVICES AT WAIAKAHIULA. 
 
 "We afterwards spent a hour in conversation and prayer with the 
 people of these sequestered villages, who had perhaps never before 
 been visited by foreigners, and then lay down on our mats to rest. 
 
 We arose early on the 8th, and Mr. Thurston held morning wor- 
 ship with the friendly people of the place. Although I had been 
 much indisposed through the night, we left Honoruru soon after six 
 a. m. and, travelling slowly towards the sea-shore, reached Waiaka- 
 heula about eight, where I was obliged to stop, and lie down under 
 the shade of a canoe-house near the shore. Messrs. Thurston and 
 Bishop walked up to the settlement about half a mile inland, where 
 the former preached to the people. 
 
 BISHOP TRAVELS THROUGH KEAAU TO WAIAKEA. 
 
 "We had seen the eastern division of Hiro yesterday afternoon; aud 
 Mr. Bishop hoping to reach Waiakea in a few hours, left Mr. Thurs- 
 ton and the natives with me, and proceeded thither. He was much 
 deceived as to the distance; for it was three o'clock in the afternoon 
 when he arrived at Kaau (Keaau), where the natives tried to per- 
 suade him to stay till morning, as they did not think he could reach 
 "VVaiakea before night. However, he kept on with increased speed, 
 in hopes of getting at least a sight of Waiakea before dark. But in 
 this he was disappointed, for the sun sunk behind Mouna-Kea, and 
 darkness overshadowed the landscape before he had passed the 
 wilderness of Pandanus, that stretched along the eastern shore, be- 
 tween Kaau and Hiro. He began to think of resting for the night 
 beneath the shelter of the surrounding bushes; but the path becoming 
 more beaten, indicated his approach to a village. Encouraged by this, 
 he pursued his way, about nine in the evening reached Waiakea, and 
 entered the house of Maaro, where he found Messrs. Goodrich and 
 Harwood, by whom he was gladly welcomed. 
 
 Being somewhat recovered by noon, I was able to proceed with 
 Mr. Thurston. The country was populous, but the houses stood singly, 
 or in small clusters, generally on the plantations, which were scat- 
 tered over the whole country. Grass and herbage were abundant, 
 vegetation in many places luxuriant, and the soil, though shallow, was 
 light and fertile. 
 
 KEAAU DESCRIBED. 
 
 Soon after five p. m. we reached Kaau, the last village in the divi- 
 sion of Puna. It was extensive and populous, abounding with well-
 
 225 
 
 cultivated plantations of taro, sweet potatoes, and sugar-cane; and 
 probably owes its fertility to a fine rapid stream of water, which, 
 descending from the mountains, runs through it into the sea. It was 
 the second stream we had seen on the island. 
 
 Having quenched our thirst, we passed over it by stepping on some 
 large stones, and directed our way to the house of the head man, 
 where we put up for the night. He was absent in the mountains, 
 with most of his people, and Makoa could procure us no provisions. 
 We, however, succeeded in purchasing a fowl and some potatoes, and 
 made a comfortable supper. While our boys were preparing it, Mr. 
 Thurston preached to a considerable number of people, who had col- 
 lected outside of the house. We were afterwards joined in evening 
 worship by the family, who at night furnished us with a comfortable 
 and clean mat for our bed, an accommodation we did not always 
 enjoy. 
 
 Early on the 9th the house was crowded with natives, and a little 
 before sun-rise morning worship was performed as usual. 
 
 Some of the natives observed, in conversation, "We shall never 
 obtain the things of which you have told us, for we are a wicked 
 and unbelieving people." 
 
 IEIE ROOT BASKETS — MAKING FIRE BY FRICTION*. 
 
 Before we left the place, the people offered for sale some curious 
 deep oval baskets, with covers, made of the fibrous roots of ie. We 
 purchased two, intending to preserve them as specimens of native in- 
 genuity. 
 
 Leaving the village of Kaau, we resumed our journey, and after 
 walking between two and three hours, stopped in the midst of a 
 thicket to rest, and prepare some breakfast. 
 
 The natives produced fire by rubbing two dry sticks, of the hibiscus 
 tiliaceus, together; and having suspended over it a small iron pot, in 
 gipsy style, upon three sticks, soon prepared our food. At half-past 
 ten we resumed our walk, and passing about two miles through a 
 wood of pretty large timber, came to the open country in the vicinity 
 of Waiakea. At one p. m. we reached the house of the chief, where 
 we were welcomed by our companions, and Maaro, the chief, who, 
 though very ill, was glad to see us. 
 
 LOCATED AT WAIAKEA. 
 
 As our party was now all together, am] intended to spend several 
 days in his district, we applied to liim for lod^in^s, and he directed 
 one of his men to conduct us to a comfortable lions. • by the sea-aide, 
 where he said we could be accommodated so long as we should find it 
 necessary or agreeable to stay. We removed into it. ami employed 
 
 15
 
 226 
 
 the afternoon in narrating the incidents of our respective journeys, 
 and preparing for the coming Sabbath. 
 
 It -was exactly a week since Messrs. Goodrich and Harwood had 
 parted from us at Kirauea, the great volcano. They had travelled 
 over a pleasant and not uneven country, well wooded, and abounding 
 with ohelos and strawberries, till they reached the inland district of 
 Ora (Olaa). They purchased a hog and vegetables of the people, 
 and had the hog dressed that evening. The next day was the Sab- 
 bath; Mr. Goodrich was unable to preach in the native language. The 
 people of the place, however, were induced to abstain from working 
 on that holy day. They arrived at Waiakea on Wednesday evening, 
 and ever since had been hospitably entertained by Maaro. 
 
 OLAA DESCRIBED. 
 
 In company with Messrs. Chamberlain, Ely, and Blatchely, I have 
 since travelled from this place to the volcano, and during that jour- 
 ney had an opportunity of preaching at most of the villages of Ora. 
 
 The distance is probably between thirty and forty miles, and the 
 ascent gradual from the shore to the volcano. The soil is generally 
 rich and fertile, and the face of the country, though more uniform 
 than some parts which we passed over, on leaving the southern 
 shore, is varied by occasional undulations. 
 
 We travelled through two or three extensive woods, in which were 
 many large trees, and saw also several pools and small currents of 
 excellent fresh water. 
 
 The construction of the swineherds' houses at the village of Ka-pu- 
 o-ka-ahi, (the hill of the fire,) was singular. There were no walls, nor 
 uprjght posts along the sides, but the rafters were fixed in the ground, 
 united at the top, and thatched about half way down. 
 
 RASPBERRY, OHELO AND STRAWBERRIES. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of this village we also saw hedges of rasp- 
 berry bushes, which the natives informed us bore white berries, and 
 were abundant in the mountains, though they would not grow nearer 
 the shore. 
 
 Nine or ten miles from the sea, we met with ohelo bushes, and after 
 we had travelled about twenty miles, we found strawberry plants in 
 abundance, and saw several in blossom, although it was in the month 
 of January. The latter plant, as well as the raspberry, is found in 
 all the higher parts of Hawaii, which induces us to think them both 
 indigenous. 
 
 RELIGIOUS INTEREST BY NATIVES. 
 
 It was six months after our tour along the coast, that we passed 
 through the villages of Ora, and we were gratified to find that
 
 227 
 
 several of the people, at different places, had received some general 
 ideas of the true God, from the reports of those natives who had 
 heard us preach when travelling along the shore, and had subse- 
 quently visited these inland districts. 
 
 At one place where we halted for the night, on our return from 
 the volcano, I preached to the people in the evening, and natives 
 afterwards maintained an interesting conversation on religious sub- 
 jects till midnight. 
 
 Among other things, respecting the salvation of the soul through 
 Jesus Christ, they said, "Our forefathers, from time immemorial, and 
 we, ever since we can remember any thing, have been seeking the ora 
 roa (enduring life,) or a state in which we should not die, but we 
 have never found it yet; perhaps this is it, of which you are telling 
 us." 
 
 NATIVES COLLECTING SANDAL WOOD. 
 
 During the same journey we overtook Maaro, the chief of Waiakea, 
 and three or four hundred people, returning with sandal wood, which 
 they had been cutting in the mountains. Each man carried two or 
 three pieces, from four to six feet long, and about three inches in 
 diameter. The bark and sap had been chipped off with small adzes, 
 and the wood appeared lighter in colour than what is usually sold at 
 Oahu, probably from its having been but recently cut down. 
 
 The sandal wood is the same as in the East Indies, and is probably 
 the santalum album. It is a tolerably heavy and solid wood, and 
 after the sap, or part next the bark, is taken off, is of a light yellow 
 or brown colour, containing a quantity of aromatic oil. Although a 
 plant of slow growth, it is found in abundance in all the mountainous 
 parts of the Sandwich Islands, and is cut in great quantities by the 
 natives, as it constitutes their principal article of exportation. 
 
 It is brought down to the beach in pieces from a foot to eighteen 
 inches in diameter, and six or eight feet long, to small sticks not 
 more than an inch thick and a foot and a half long. 
 
 It is sold by weight, and the merchants, who exchange for it 
 articles of European or Chinese manufacture, take it to the Canton 
 market, where it is bought by the Chinese for the purpose of pre- 
 paring incense to burn in their idol temples. 
 
 HILO A RAINY DISTRICT. 
 
 In the evening, many natives, attracted by curiosity, came to our 
 house. "We conversed some time with them, and when they went 
 away, invited them to attend public worship on the morrow. 
 
 Dense fogs and heavy rains arc more frequent at Waiakea, and 
 over the whole division of Him. than in any other part of the island.
 
 228 
 
 Wo were, therefore, not surprised at beholding, on the morning of the 
 10th, the district and coast enveloped in mist, and experiencing fre- 
 quent showers of rain through the earlier part of the day. Between 
 nine and ten in the forenoon, however, the fog cleared off, and the 
 sun shone brightly on the glowing landscape. 
 
 Shortly after ten o'clock, the chiefs, and people in considerable 
 numbers, assembled in a large house adjacent to that in which we 
 resided, agreeably to the invitation given them last evening. The 
 worship commenced as usual, and I preached from the text, ' ' Happy 
 is that people whose God is the Lord." The attention was not so 
 good as that generally given by the congregations we had addressed. 
 Many, however, quietly listened till the service was over. 
 
 A CONTROVERSY WITH A PRIESTESS OF PELE. 
 
 As we arose to depart, an old woman, who during the discourse 
 sat near the speaker, and had listened very attentively, all at once 
 exclaimed, ' ' Powerful are the gods of Hawaii, and great is Pele, 
 the goddess of Hawaii, she shall save Maaro, " (the sick chief who 
 was present). 
 
 Another began to chant a song in praise of Pele, to which the 
 people generally listened, though some began to laugh. 
 
 We supposed they were intoxicated, and therefore took no notice 
 of them; but on our leaving the house, some of our people told us 
 they were not ona i ka ruma (intoxicated or poisoned with rum,) but 
 inspired by the akua (goddess) of the volcano; or that one of them 
 was Pele herself, in the form of one of her priestesses. 
 
 On hearing this, I turned back into the house, and when the song 
 was ended, immediately entered into conversation with the principal 
 one, by asking her if she had attended to the discorse that had been 
 delivered there? 
 
 She answered that she had listened, and understood it. 
 
 I then asked if she thought Jehovah was good, and those happy 
 who made him their God? 
 
 She answered, "He is your good God, (or best God,) and it is 
 right that you should worship him; but Pele is my deity, and the 
 great goddess of Hawaii. Kirauea is the place of her abode. Ohia- 
 otelani (the northern peak of the volcano) is one corner of her house. 
 From the land beyond the sky, in former times, she came." 
 
 She then went on with the song which she had thus begun, giving 
 a long account of the deeds and honours of Pele. This she pronounced 
 in such a rapid and vociferous manner, accompanied by such violent 
 gestures, that only here and there a word could be understood. In- 
 deed, towards the close, she appeared to lose all command of herself. 
 
 When she had done, I told her she was mistaken in supposing any
 
 229 
 
 supernatural being resided in the volcano; that Pele was a creature 
 of their own invention, and existed only in the imagination of her 
 kaku, or devotees: adding, that volcanoes, and all their accom- 
 panying phenomena, were under the powerful control of Jehovah, 
 who, though uncreated himself, was the Creator and Supporter of 
 heaven and earth, and every thing she beheld. 
 
 JEHOVAH NOT THE ONLY GOD. 
 
 She replied, that it was not so. She did not dispute that Jehovah 
 was a God, but that he was not the only God. 
 
 Pele was a goddess, and dwelt in her, and through her would heal 
 the sick chief then present. She wished him restored, and therefore 
 came to visit him. 
 
 I said I also wished Maaro to recover, but if he did recover, it 
 would be by the favour of Jehovah, and that I hoped he would ack- 
 nowledge him, and seek to him alone, as he was the only true Phy- 
 sician, who could save both body and soul, making the latter happy 
 in another world, when this world, with all its volcanoes, mountains, 
 and oceans, should cease to exist. 
 
 I then advised her, and all present, to forsake their imaginary 
 deity, whose character was distinguished by all that was revengeful 
 and destructive, and accept the offers Jehovah had made them by his 
 servants, that they might be happy now, and escape the everlasting 
 death that would overtake all the idolatrous and wicked. 
 
 AN IMPERSONATOR OF PELE. 
 
 Assuming a haughty air, she said, "I am Pele; I shall never die; 
 and those who follow me, when they die, if part of their bones be 
 taken to Kirauea, (the name of the volcano,) will live with me in the 
 bright fires there." 
 
 I said, Are you Pele? 
 
 She replied, Yes: and was proceeding to state her powers, &c. when 
 Makoa, who had till now stood silent, interrupted her, and said, "It 
 is true you are Pele, or some of Pele's party; and it is you that have 
 destroyed the king's land, devoured his people, and spoiled all the 
 fishing grounds. 
 
 Ever since you came to the islands, you have been busied in mis- 
 chief; you spoiled the greater part of the island, shook it to pieces, 
 or cursed it with barrenness, by inundating it with lava. 
 
 You never did any good; and if I were the king, I would throw 
 you all into the sea, or banish you from the islands. Hawaii would 
 be quiet if you were away." 
 
 This was rather unexpected, and seemed to surprise several of the 
 company.
 
 230 
 
 However, the pretended Pele said, "Formerly we did overflow some 
 of the land, but it was only the land of those that were rebels, or 
 were very wicked people. (Broke the restrictions of the tabu, or 
 brought no offerings.) Now we abide quietly in Kirauea. " 
 
 RUM WORSE THAN PELE. 
 
 She then added, "It cannot be said that in these days we destroy 
 the king's people." She mentioned the names of several chiefs, and 
 then asked who destroyed these? 
 
 Not Pele, but the rum of the foreigners, whose God you are so fond 
 of. Their diseases and their rum have destroyed more of the king's 
 men, than all the volcanoes on the island. 
 
 I told her I regretted that their intercourse with foreigners should 
 have introduced among them diseases to which they were strangers 
 before, and that I hoped they would also receive the advantages of 
 Christian instruction and civilization, which the benevolent in those 
 countries by which they had been injured, were now anxious to 
 impart: that intoxication was wholly forbidden by Jehovah, the God 
 of Christians, who had declared that no drunkard should enter the 
 kingdom of heaven. 
 
 I then said, I was sorry to see her so deceived, and attempting to 
 deceive others; told her she knew her pretensions were false, and 
 recommended her to consider seriously the consequences of idolatry, 
 and cease to practise her fatal deceptions; to recollect that she 
 would one day die; that God had given her an opportunity of hearing 
 of his love to sinners in the gift of his Son; and that if she applied 
 to him for mercy, although now an idolatrous priestess, she might be 
 saved; but if she did not, a fearful doom awaited her. 
 
 "I shall not die," she exclaimed, "but ora no," (live spon- 
 taneously.) 
 
 After replying to this, I retired; but the spectators, who had mani- 
 fested by their countenances that they were not uninterested in the 
 discussion, continued in earnest conversation for some time. 
 
 The name of the priestess we afterwards learned was Oani. She 
 resided in a neighbouring village, and had that morning arrived at 
 Waiakea on a visit to Maaro. 
 
 THREATS BY PRIESTS OF PELE. 
 
 When the national idolatry was publicly abolished in the year, 1819, 
 several priests of Pele denounced the most awful threatenings, of 
 earthquakes, eruptions, &c. from the gods of the volcanoes, in revenge 
 for the insult and neglect then shewn by the king and chiefs. But no 
 fires afterwards appearing in any of the extinguished volcanoes, no 
 fresh ones having broken out, and those then in action having since
 
 231 
 
 that period remained in a state of comparative quiescence, some of 
 the people have been led to conclude, that the gods formerly sup- 
 posed to preside over volcanoes had existed only in their imagination. 
 The fearful apprehensions which they had been accustomed to asso- 
 ciate with every idea of Pele and her companions, have in a great 
 measure subsided, and the oppressive power of her priests and 
 priestesses is consequently diminished. 
 
 PELE STILL DREADED. 
 
 There are, however, many who remain in constant dread of her 
 displeasure, and who pay the most submissive and unhesitating obedi- 
 ence to the requisitions of her priests. 
 
 This is no more than was to be expected, particularly in this part 
 of the island, where the people are far removed from the means of 
 instruction, the example and influence of the principal chiefs, and 
 more enlightened part of the population; and it appears matter of sur- 
 prise, that in the course of three years only, so many should have re- 
 linquished their superstitious notions respecting the deities of the 
 volcanoes, when we consider their ignorance, and their early impres- 
 sions, and recollect that while resting at night, perhaps on a bed of 
 lava, they are occasionally startled from their midnight slumbers by 
 the undulating earthquake, and are daily reminded of the dreadful 
 power of this imaginary goddess "by almost every object that meets 
 their view, from the cliffs which are washed by the waves of the sea, 
 even to the lofty craters, her ancient seat above the clouds, and amid 
 perpetual snows." 
 
 Until this morning, however, none of the servants of Pele had ever 
 publicly opposed her pretended right to that homage and obedience 
 which it was our object to persuade and invite them to render to 
 Jehovah alone; and though it was encouraging to notice, that, by 
 many of the people present, the pretensions of Oani were disregarded, 
 it was exceedingly painful to hear an idolatrous priestess declaring 
 that the conduct of those, by whom they had been sometimes visited 
 from countries called Christian, had been productive of consequences 
 more injurious and fatal to the unsuspecting and unenlightened 
 Hawaiians, than these dreadful phenomena in nature, which they had 
 been accustomed to attribute to the most destructive of their imagi- 
 nary deities, and to know also that such ;t declaration was too true to 
 be contradicted. 
 
 NATIVES INCLINED TOWARD CHRISTIANITY. 
 
 A number of people, after they left the place of public worship, 
 came to our house, and conversed on the blessedness of those who 
 worship and obey Jehovah. They all sai.i it 4, and that Lf the
 
 232 
 
 king were to come or send them word, they would build a house for 
 a missionary, a school-house, and chapel, and also observe the Sab- 
 bath-day. 
 
 In the afternoon Mr. Thurston preached at the same place to an 
 attentive congregation. In company wifh Mr. Bishop, I walked over 
 to Ponahawai, where Makoa collected upwards of one hundred people 
 at the head man's house, to whom I preached from Kom. x. 13. 
 "Whosoever shall call upon the name of the Lord shall be saved." 
 The whole assembly gave good attention, frequently interrupting me 
 while speaking, by their exclamations. 
 
 A gray-headed old man, who sat near the door, listened with ap- 
 parent interest during the whole service, and when, towards the close, 
 it was stated that those who in faith called on the Lord, would in 
 another world obtain everlasting life, he exclaimed, "My days are 
 almost ended, that cannot be for me, — can an old man live for ever?" 
 He was told that Jesus was willing to save the souls of all who with 
 humility and sincerity come to him, both old and young; that he 
 would reanimate their bodies in the resurrection; and that he 
 would give eternal life to as many as believed on his name. 
 
 EFFECT OF RELIGIOUS DOCTRINE ON NATIVES. 
 
 We have more than once had occasion to notice with peculiar in- 
 terest the impression made on an adult heathen, when some of the 
 sublime and important doctrines of religion are for the first time 
 presented to his mind. 
 
 Accustomed to contemplate the gods of his ancestors as the patrons 
 of every vice, and supernatural monsters of cruelty, deriving satis- 
 faction from the struggles and expiring agonies of the victim offered 
 in sacrifice, he is surprised to hear of the holy nature of God, and 
 the condescending love of Christ; but the idea of the resurrection 
 of the body, the general judgment, and the eternal happiness or 
 misery of all mankind, affects him with a degree of astonishment 
 never witnessed in countries where the Christian religion prevails, 
 and in which, notwithstanding the lamentable ignorance existing in 
 different portions of the community, there are few who have not some 
 moral perceptions, which have enlarged with the growth of intellect, 
 and the more extended observations of riper years. 
 
 But the heathen, whose mental powers have reached maturity be- 
 fore the truth has been presented, experiences very different sensa- 
 tions; and we have seen the effects produced at these times exhibited 
 in various ways: sometimes by most significant gestures, at other times 
 by involuntary exclamations, or penetrating looks fixed on the speaker; 
 and occasionally, as was the case this afternoon, by their actually 
 interrupting us to inquire, "How can these things be?" or declaring
 
 233 
 
 in their own beautiful and figurative language, that the tidings they 
 had heard "broke in upon their minds like the light of the morning." 
 "When the exercises were ended, they congratulated each other on 
 the news they had heard; said it was good, and added, "Let us all 
 attend to it; who is there that does not desire eternal life in the other 
 world?" They afterwards made many inquiries about the Sabbath- 
 day, prayer, &c. and asked if they should not be visited again. We 
 told them it was probable that, before long, teachers would come and 
 reside permanently among them. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OP A CHIEF'S HOUSEHOLD. 
 
 On our way home, we called on Maaro, whom we found very ill. 
 One of his children was also sick, and seemed near dying. "We re- 
 greted that we had no medicine proper to administer either to the 
 suffering chief or his child. 
 
 The wretched picture of uncivilized society, which this family ex- 
 hibited, powerfully affected our minds. Maaro 's house, like that of 
 the chiefs in general, was large, and accommodated many of his 
 friends and dependants. 
 
 On one side near the door, he lay on a mat which was spread on 
 the ground. Two or three domestics sat around, one of them holding 
 a small calabash of water, and another with a kahiri was fanning 
 away the flies. 
 
 Xear the centre of the house, on another mat, spread also on the 
 ground, lay the pale emaciated child, its features distorted with pain, 
 and its feeble voice occasionally uttering the most piteous cries. A 
 native girl sat beside it, driving away the flies, and holding a cocoa- 
 nut shell in her hand, containing a little poe, with which she had 
 been endeavouring to feed it. 
 
 INDIFFERENCE OP FAMILY TO SICKNESS. 
 
 In the same place, and nearly between the father and the child, 
 two of Maaro 's wives, and some other chief women, were seated on 
 the ground, playing at cards, laughing and jesting over their game. 
 
 We tried to enter into conversation with them, but they were too 
 intent on the play to pay any attention to what we Baid, 
 
 The visitors or attendants of the chief sat in groups in different 
 parts of the house, some carelessly singing, others engaged in earnest 
 conversation. 
 
 We could not forbear contrasting the scene here presented, with a 
 domestic circle in civilized and Christian society, under Bimilar cir- 
 cumstances, where all the alleviations which the tenderest sympathy 
 could impart, would be promptly tendered to the suffering indivi- 
 duals.
 
 234 
 
 But hero, alas! ignorance, cruel idolatry, and familiarity with vice, 
 appeared to have destroyed natural affection, and all the tender sym- 
 pathies of humanity, in their bosoms. 
 
 The wife beheld unmoved the sufferings of her husband, and the 
 amusement of the mother was undisturbed by the painful crying of 
 her languishing child. 
 
 TREATMENT OF THE SICK IN TAHITI. 
 
 The state of domestic society in Tahiti and the neighbouring 
 islands, only a few years ago, was even more affecting. There the 
 sick were often removed from the house in which they had been 
 accustomed to reside, and placed in a miserable hut a few yards dis- 
 tant, and were sometimes starved to death, or murdered, or buried 
 alive, from motives of covetousness or idleness; children frequently 
 declaring it was too much trouble to attend to the wants of their 
 parents. 
 
 But what a pleasing change has the introduction of Christianity 
 effected among them! 
 
 So far from being unwilling to take care of their sick relatives and 
 friends, a number of individuals, at several of the missionary sta- 
 tions, annually devote a part of the produce of their labour, to erect 
 houses, purchase medicine, and provide for the comfort of those who 
 are sick and indigent. 
 
 It is impossible for any people to be more attentive and kind than 
 they now are. Many a time the friend of some one who had been 
 taken ill has called me up at midnight to ask for medicine; and often 
 have I seen a wife or a sister supporting in her lap the head of a sick 
 and perhaps dying husband or brother, night after night, yet refus- 
 ing to leave them, though almost exhausted with fatigue. 
 
 DISCUSSIONS "WITH MAARO, CHIEF OF WAIAKEA. 
 
 Leaving Maaro, we returned through a highly cultivated part of 
 the district. Every thing in nature was lovely, and the landscape 
 around awakened emotions very different from those excited during 
 our visit to the abode of sickness which we had just left. 
 
 The wretchedness of the people, we trust, will ere long be amelior- 
 ated; for the gospel, which produced the favourable change above 
 alluded to, among the natives of the Society Islands, has at length 
 reached these shores; and there is every reason to expect that its 
 humane spirit and principles, when onee imbibed by the people, will 
 result in corresponding effects. 
 
 The morning of the 11th was cloudy, with rain, which did not clear 
 off till about 10 a. m. The greater part of the day we employed in
 
 235 
 
 examining the district and harbour. We were highly gratified with 
 the fertility of the soil, and the luxuriance of the verdure. 
 
 PROPOSAL TO SEND MISSIONARIES TO HILO. 
 
 In the afternoon we waited on Maaro the chief, to ask his opinion 
 respecting missionaries settling permanently in his neighbourhood. 
 He said, perhaps it would be well; that if the king and chiefs ap- 
 proved of it, he should desire it. 
 
 We asked if he would patronize and protect missionaries and their 
 families, provided the king and chiefs approved of their settling at 
 Waiakea. He answered, ' ' Yes, certainly, ' ' and, at the same time, 
 pointed out several places where they might build their houses." 
 
 We told him that the king, Karaimoku, Kaahumanu, and the gov- 
 ernor, approved of instructors coming to teach the people of Waia- 
 kea; but that we were also desirous to obtain his opinion, before any 
 arrangements were made for their removal from Oahu. He again 
 repeated that he thought it would be a good thing; and that if the 
 missionaries came with the approbation of the king and chiefs, he 
 should be glad to witness their arrival. 
 
 We then took leave of Maaro. and the chiefs that were with him. 
 Messrs. Thurston and Bishop walked to the opposite side of the 
 bay, where we had held a religious exercise yesterday, and here Mr. 
 Thurston preached to an attentive congregation of about sixty people. 
 The head man afterwards expressed a strong desire to be instructed, 
 and said all the people would like to learn the palapala, and keep 
 the Sabbath-day. 
 
 DISCUSSIONS WITH NATIVES ABOUT MISSIONARIES. 
 
 While they were on the western shore, 1 visited several houses on 
 the eastern side of the settlement, and entered into conversation with 
 the people on the subject of missionaries coming to reside at Waiakea. 
 
 In general they approved, saying they had dark minds, and needed 
 instruction. Some, however, seemed to doubt the propriety of for- 
 eigners coming to reside permanently among them. They said they 
 had heard that in several countries where foreigners had intermin- 
 gled with the original natives, the latter had soon disappeared; and 
 should missionaries come to live at Waiakea, perhaps the land would 
 ultimately become theirs, and the kanaka maore (aborigines) cease 
 to be its occupiers. 
 
 I told them, that had boon the case in some countries; but thai the 
 residence of missionaries among them, so far from producing it. was 
 i ed and eminently calculated to prevent a oonsequence bo melan- 
 choly. 
 
 At the same time I remarked, thai their sanguinary wars, tlieir
 
 23G 
 
 extensive and cruel practice of infanticide, their frequent intoxica- 
 tion, and their numerous diseases, partly gendered by vicious habits, 
 had, according to their own account, diminished the population of 
 the island three-fourths within the last forty years; and, from the 
 destructive operation of these causes, there was every reason to fear 
 the Hawaiian people would soon be annihilated, unless some antidote 
 was found, some barrier opposed, to their depopulating effects. 
 
 None, I added, were so strong as moral restraints; none so effica- 
 cious as instruction and civilization; and, above all, the principles and 
 doctrines of the Bible, which they could not become acquainted with 
 but by the residence of missionaries among them. 
 
 Such, I informed them, was the opinion of the friends of missions, 
 who, anxious to ameliorate their wretched condition, preserve from 
 oblivion the remnant of the people, place them among the nations 
 of the earth, and direct them to the enjoyment of civilized life, and 
 the participation of immortality and happiness in another world, had 
 sent them the word of God, and missionaries to unfold to them, 
 in their own language, its divine and invaluable truths. 
 
 At the close of this interview, some again repeated, that it would 
 be a good thing for missionaries to come; others expressed doubt and 
 hesitation. 
 
 Many of the people, during their intercourse with foreigners, have 
 been made acquainted with the leading facts in the history of South 
 America and the West Indies; and hence the natives of this place, in 
 all probability, derived the ground of their objection. 
 
 STATUS OF NATIVES COMPARED WITH SOCIETY ISLANDERS. 
 
 The houses of the natives whom we had visited today, like most 
 in this part of the island, where the pandanus is abundant, were 
 covered with the leaves of this plant, which, though it requires more 
 labour in thatching, makes the most durable dwellings. 
 
 The inhabitants of "Waiakea are peculiarly favoured in having 
 woods producing timber, such as they use for building, within three or 
 four miles of their settlement, while the natives in most parts of the 
 islands have to fetch it from a much greater distance. 
 
 In neatness and elegance of appearance their houses are not equal 
 to those of the Society Islanders, even before they were instructed 
 by Europeans, but in point of strength and durability they sometimes 
 exceed them. 
 
 STYLES AND METHODS OF BUILDING HAWAIIAN HOUSES. 
 
 There is also less variety in the form of the Sandwich Island 
 dwellings, which are chiefly of two kinds, viz. the hale noho, (dwell- 
 ing house,) or halau, (a long building,) nearly open at one end, and,
 
 237 
 
 though, thatched with different materials, they are all framed in 
 nearly the same way. 
 
 They begin to build a house by planting in the ground a number of 
 posts, six or eight inches in diameter, in a row, about three or four 
 feet apart, which are to support one side of the house. When these 
 are fixed in a straight line, they erect a parallel row, to form the 
 opposite side. 
 
 In the small houses, these posts are not more than three or four 
 feet high, while in the larger ones they are twelve or fourteen feet 
 in height, and proportionably stout. Those used in the chiefs' houses 
 are round, straight, and smooth, being prepared with great care, but 
 in general they are fixed in the ground without even having the 
 bark stripped off. 
 
 Grooves are cut in the top of the posts, along which small poles are 
 laid horizontally, instead of wall-plates, and tied to the posts with 
 the fibrous roots of the ie, a tough mountain plant. 
 
 A high post, notched at the top, is next fixed in the middle at 
 each end, and supports the ridge-pole, on which the tops of the rafters 
 rest, while, at the lower end, they are fixed on the wall-plate, each 
 rafter being placed exactly above the post which supports the hori- 
 zontal pole, or wall-plate. 
 
 "When the rafters are fixed, small poles are laid along, where they 
 cross each other above the ridge-pole; sometimes poles are fastened 
 across like tie-beams, about half-way up the roof, and the separate 
 parts of the whole frame are tied together with strong cinet, made 
 of the roots of the ie plant, or fibres of cocoa-nut husk. 
 
 The space between the posts at the sides and ends is now closed 
 up with sticks, larger than a common-sized walking-stick, which are 
 tied with cinet in horizontal lines, two or three inches apart, on the 
 outside of the posts, and extending from the ground to the top of the 
 roof. A large house, in this stage of its erection, has a singular ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 If the sides and roof are of plantain leafstalks, and the leaves of 
 the pandanus, or of ti leaves, each leaf is woven around tho hori- 
 zontal sticks, which gives it a neat appearance, resembling a kind 
 of coarse matting on the inside, while the ends of the leaves hang 
 down without. But if they are covered with grass, which is most 
 commonly the case, it is bound up in Bmall bundles, and these are tied 
 to the small sticks along the side of the wall of the house, with cinet 
 or cord. 
 
 They always begin at the bottom, and tie on the grass with the 
 roots upward, and inclined towards the Lnside, and continue one row 
 above another from the ground to the top of the roof. 
 
 The roof and sides are always of the same material, except where
 
 238 
 
 tlif latter are of plantain or ti leaves. The corners and ridge are 
 sometimes covered with fern-leaves, with which they can secure these 
 parts better than with grass, &c. 
 
 ABSENCE OF WINDOWS IN HOUSES. 
 
 The shell is now finished, and generally, except in the lowness of 
 the sides and steepness of the roof, looks much like a hay-rick, 
 particularly as until recently they never thought of making win- 
 dows, and had only one aperture, which was the entrance. 
 
 A large portion of the lower part of that end of the halau which 
 faces the sea, is usually open. 
 
 The houses of this kind were probably originally erected for the 
 construction and preservation of canoes, for which purpose they are 
 still sometimes used, though frequently occupied as dwellings. 
 
 In the common dwelling-house, the door is frequently on one side. 
 In the old houses the doors are always low. 
 
 Since foreigners have resided among them, and built houses with 
 doors and windows, the natives have enlarged their doors, though 
 there are yet but few that can be entered without stooping. 
 
 Some of them also begin to think windows a convenience, but 
 they by no means fall in with our ideas of uniformity in the disposi- 
 tion of them. 
 
 Sometimes we have seen a house forty or fifty feet long, with the 
 door at one end, and a small window at the other, half way up to the 
 top of the roof. 
 
 Again, we have entered a house of equal dimensions, and in some 
 parts of it we have seen an aperture within a foot or a foot and a 
 half of the floor, generally near their sleeping-places. This, as well 
 as the other, they call a buka makani, (wind hole,) and assign as a 
 reason for placing it in such a situation, that they sometimes find 
 it close in their houses, and like to have the wind blow on them as 
 they lie on their mats. 
 
 INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT OF DWELLINGS. 
 
 The shell of the house being finished, they proceed to fit up the 
 inside, which is soon accomplished, as they have neither partitions 
 nor chambers, and, however large the house may be, but one room 
 and one floor. In preparing the latter, they sometimes level the 
 ground, and spread grass over it, which they cover with large mats 
 made of the leaves of the pandanus. But the best floors are' those 
 formed with pebbles, or small fragments of lava, which are always 
 dry, and less likely to be infested with vermin than those covered 
 'fith grass. 
 
 The size and quality of a dwelling varies according to the rank
 
 239 
 
 and means of its possessor, those of the poor people being mere 
 huts, eight or ten feet square, others twenty feet long, and ten or 
 twelve feet wide, while the houses of the chiefs are from fort)' to 
 seventy feet long. 
 
 Their houses are generally separate from each other; even in their 
 most populous villages, however near the houses may be, they are 
 always distinct buildings. 
 
 METHODS OF ERECTION OF HOUSES. 
 
 Although there are professed house-carpenters who excel in fram- 
 ing, and others who are taught to finish the corners of the house and 
 ridge of the roof, which but few understand, yet, in general, every 
 man erects his own house. If it be of a middling or large size, this, 
 to an individual or a family, is a formidable undertaking, as they 
 have to cut down the trees in the mountains, and bring the wood 
 from six to ten miles on their shoulders, gather the leaves or grass, 
 braid the cinet, &e. before they can begin to build. 
 
 But when a chief wants a house, he requires the labour of all who 
 hold lands under him; and we have often been surprised at the des- 
 patch with which a house is sometimes built. 
 
 We have known the natives come with their materials in the 
 morning, put up the frame of a middling-sized house in one day, 
 cover it in the next, and on the third day return to their lands. 
 
 Each division of people has a part of the house allotted by the 
 chief, in proportion to its number; and it is no unusual thing to 
 see upwards of a hundred men at a time working on one house. 
 
 DURABILITY OF GRASS HOUSES. 
 
 A good house, such as they build for the chiefs, will keep out the 
 wind and rain, and last from seven to ten years. But, in general, 
 they do not last more than five years; and those which they are hired 
 to build for foreigners, not much more than half that time. 
 
 In less than twelve months after my own grass house was built, the 
 rain came through the roof from one end to the other, every time 
 there was a heavy shower. 
 
 In some of the islands the natives have recently covered their 
 houses with mud; this, however, does not appear to render them more 
 durable. 
 
 TOOLS QSED I'.V NATIVES. 
 
 Before they were visited by foreigners, the only tool employed In 
 building was a stone adze, formed of a kind of basalt, or compact 
 lava; and though they hot* use an axe Ln felling the trees, the adze 
 
 is BtiU their favourite tool, ami miiny of tlimi n:-.' no other.
 
 240 
 
 The stone adze is, however, exchanged for one made with a plane 
 iron, bent, and tied securely to a handle of light wood. This they 
 prefer to the European adze, which they say is too heavy. 
 
 Sometimes they use a saw, chisel, and gimblet, in framing their 
 houses, but they are not yet adepts in the use of these tools; we have 
 often seen them throw down the saw, and take up their adze to finish 
 that which they had commenced cutting with a saw. 
 
 IMPROVEMENTS IN DWELLINGS. 
 
 Their habitations, though rude, discover, concerning their circum- 
 stances and means, a greater degree of industry, and attention to 
 comfort, than is usually manifested by uncivilized nations; and 
 within the last few years great improvements have been made in 
 their houses. 
 
 Karaimoku has erected in the island of Oahu, a stone house, sixty 
 feet by thirty, three stories high, with a spacious cellar underneath. 
 The inside of the house he has formed into apartments, which, by 
 foreign workmen whom he employed, have been finished in a highly 
 respectable manner. The front, which faces the south, is skreened by 
 a wide veranda enclosed with light railing, and ascended by a hand- 
 some flight of stairs. 
 
 SUPERSTITIONS CONNECTED WITH HOUSE BUILDING — HOW 
 FURNISHED. 
 
 While idolatry existed, a number of superstitious ceremonies were 
 performed, before they could occupy their houses. Offerings were 
 made to the gods, and presents to the priest, who entered the house, 
 uttered prayers, went through other ceremonies, and slept in it be- 
 fore the owner took possession, in order to prevent evil spirits from 
 resorting to it, and to secure its inmates from the effects of incan- 
 tation. 
 
 When the house was finished, it was soon furnished. A sleeping- 
 mat spread on the ground, and a wooden pillow, a wicker basket 
 or two to keep their tapa or native cloth in, a few calabashes for 
 water and poe, and some wooden dishes, of various size and shape, 
 together with a haka, were all they required. 
 
 This latter article was sometimes like a stand used by us for hang- 
 ing hats and coats on. It was often made with care, and carved, but 
 more frequently it was a small arm of a tree, with a number of 
 branches attached to it. These were cut off within a foot of the 
 main stem, which was planted in some convenient part of the house, 
 and upon these natural pegs they used to hang their calabashes, and 
 other vessels containing food.
 
 241 
 
 METHODS OF EATING. 
 
 They generally sat on the ground, and took their food near the 
 door of their house: sometimes, however, they took their meals in the 
 more luxurious manner of some of the eastern nations, lying nearly 
 in a horizontal posture, and resting on one arm, or reclining on a 
 large cushion or pillow placed under the breast for that purpose; in 
 this manner the late king, with the members of his family, and many 
 of the principal chiefs, were accustomed frequently to take their 
 evening meal. 
 
 Their intercourse with foreigners of late years has taught many 
 of the chiefs to prefer a bedstead to the ground, and a mattress to a 
 mat, to sit on a chair, eat at a table, use a knife and fork, &c. This 
 we think advantageous, not only to those who visit them for purposes 
 of commerce, but to the natives themselves, as it increases their 
 wants, and consequently stimulates to habits of industry. 
 
 CANOE HIRED FOR PASSAGE TO LAUPAHOEHOE. 
 
 Having been informed by our guide that travelling along the coast 
 to the northward would be tedious and difficult, on account of the 
 numerous deep ravines that intersected the whole extent of Hiro and 
 Hamakua, it seemed desirable to take a canoe as far as Laupahoehoe, 
 by which we should avoid some of the most difficult parts of the 
 coast. 
 
 As soon as the rain had ceased, and the fog cleared off, on the 
 morning of the 12th I waited on Maaro, to inquire if he could furnish 
 us with one. The chief said, he had not a double canoe at his com- 
 mand, or he would cheerfully provide one. I therefore walked on to 
 Pueo, on the western shore, where, for six dollars, I hired one of 
 Kapapa, chief of the place, to take us between twenty and twenty-five 
 miles. 
 
 TOLL CHARGED FOR CROSSING WAILUKU RIVER. 
 
 Returning from Pueo, I visited Wairuku, a beautiful stream of 
 water flowing rapidly over a rocky bed, with frequent falls, and many 
 places eligible for the erection of water-mills of almost any descrip- 
 tion. Makoa and the natives pointed out a square rock in the middle 
 of the stream, on which, during the reign of Tamehameha, and 
 former kings, a toll used to be paid by every traveller who passed 
 over the river. 
 
 AVhenever any one approached the stream, he stood on the brink, 
 and called to the collector of the toll, who resided on the opposite 
 side. He came down with a broad piece of board, which he placed 
 on the rock above mentioned. Those who wished t.> cross me1 him 
 there, and deposited on the board whatever articles had lie n brought; 
 
 1G
 
 242 
 
 and if satisfactory, the person was allowed to pass the river. It did 
 not appear that any uniform toll was required; the amount, or value, 
 being generally left to the collector. 
 
 The natives said it was principally regulated by the rank or num- 
 ber of those who passed over. 
 
 In order the better to accommodate passengers, all kinds of per- 
 manently valuable articles were received. Some paid in native tapa 
 and mats, or baskets, others paid a hog, a dog, some fowls, a roll of 
 tobacco, or a quantity of dried salt fish. 
 
 MARKET FAIRS HELD AT HILO. 
 
 The river of Wairuku was also distinguished by the markets or fairs 
 held at stated periods on its banks. At those times the people of 
 Puna, and the desolate shores of Kau, even from the south point of 
 the island, brought mats, and mamake tapa, which is a remarkably 
 strong black or brown native cloth, for the manufacture of which 
 the inhabitants of Ora, and some of the inland parts of Puna, are 
 celebrated throughout the whole group of the Sandwich Islands. It 
 is made of a variety of the morus papyrifera, which grows sponta- 
 neously in those parts. These, together with vast quantities of dried 
 salt fish, were ranged along on the south side of the ravine. 
 
 The people of Hiro and Hamakua, as far as the north point, 
 brought hogs, tobacco, tapa of various kinds, large mats made of 
 the pandanus leaves, and bundles of ai pa, which were collected on 
 the north bank. Ai pai, (hard food). A kind of food made of baked 
 taro, pounded together without water. When properly prepared, it is 
 wrapped in green ti leaves, and tied up in bundles containing from 
 twenty to forty pounds each; in this state it will remain several 
 months without injury. From bank to bank the traders shouted to 
 each other, and arranged the preliminaries of their bargains. From 
 thence the articles were taken down to the before-mentioned rock 
 in the middle of the stream, which in this place is almost covered 
 with large stones. Here they were examined by the parties imme- 
 diately concerned, in the presence of the collectors, who stood on 
 each side of the rock, and were the general arbiters, in the event 
 of any disputes arising. To them also was committed the preserva- 
 tion of good order during the fair, and they, of course, received a 
 suitable remuneration from the different parties. 
 
 On the above occasions, the banks of the Wairuku must often 
 have presented an interesting scene, in the bustle of which these 
 clerks of the market must have had no inconsiderable share. 
 
 According to the account of the natives, this institution was in 
 force till the accession of Kihoriho, the late king, since which time 
 it has been abolished.
 
 243 
 
 In the afternoon I called on Maaro, and found him very ill, and 
 averse to conversation. His wives sat in the same room playing at 
 cards, and apparently too intent on their game to be easily diverted. 
 
 A CASE OF INFANTICIDE — JUSTIFIED BY KAMEHAMEHA. 
 
 About twelve years ago, a shocking instance of infanticide occurred 
 in this district, exhibiting, in a most affecting manner, the unre- 
 strained violence of malignant passion, and the want of parental 
 affection, which so often characterize savage life. 
 
 A man and his wife, tenants of Mr. Young, who has for many 
 years held, under the king, the small district of Kukuwau, situated 
 on the centre of Waiakea bay, resided not far from Maaro 's house. 
 They had one child, a fine little boy. A quarrel arose between them 
 on one occasion respecting this child. The wife refusing to accede 
 to the wishes of the husband, he, in revenge, caught up the child 
 by the head and the feet, broke its back across his knee, and then 
 threw it down in expiring agonies before her. 
 
 Struck with the atrocity of the act, Mr. Young seized the man, led 
 him before the king, Tamehameha, who was then at Waiakea, and 
 requested that he might be punished. 
 
 The king inquired, "To whom did the child he has murdered be- 
 long?" 
 
 Mr. Young answered, that it was his own son. 
 
 "Then," said the king, "neither you nor I have any right to in- 
 terfere; I cannot say any thing to him." 
 
 PREVALENCE OF INFANTICIDE IN HAWAII. 
 
 We have long known that the Sandwich Islanders practised in- 
 fanticide, but had no idea of the extent to which it prevailed, until 
 we had made various inquiries during our present tour, and had con- 
 versed with Karaimoku, Kapiolani, the governor, and several other 
 chiefs, who, though formerly unwilling to converse on the subject, 
 have, since their reception of Christianity, become more commu- 
 nicative. 
 
 It prevails throughout all the islands, and, with tho exception of 
 the higher class of chiefs, is, as far as we could learn, practised by 
 all ranks of the people. 
 
 However numerous the children among the lower orders, parents 
 seldom rear more than two or three, and many spare only one; all 
 the others are destroyed sometimes shortly after birth, generally dur- 
 ing the first year of their age. 
 
 The means by which it is accomplished, though numerous, it would 
 be improper to describe. Kuakini, the governor of the Island, in a 
 conversation I had with him at Kairua, cniiincratrd many diflVrmt
 
 244 
 
 methods, several of which frequently proved fatal to the mother also. 
 Sometimes they strangle their children, but more frequently bury 
 them alive. 
 
 INFANTICIDE IN SOCIETY ISLANDS. 
 
 Among the Society Islanders, who, while they were idolaters, prob- 
 ably practised infanticide more than any other natives in the Pacific, 
 if the intended victim survived only one day, and frequently not 
 more than a few hours, it was generally saved. 
 
 Depraved as they were, they could not afterwards sacrifice to a 
 barbarous custom an innocent babe, who seemed to look with con- 
 fidence to its mother or its nurse, and unconsciously smiled upon those 
 who stood by: hence the parties interested in the child's destruction, 
 which were the parents themselves, or their relations, generally stran- 
 gled it soon after its birth. 
 
 ESTIMATE TWO-THIRDS OF CHILDREN WERE KILLED. 
 
 But among the Sandwich Islanders, the infant, after living a week, 
 a month, or even a year, was still insecure, as some were destroyed 
 when nearly able to walk. 
 
 It is painful to think of the numbers thus murdered. All the 
 information we have been able to obtain, and the facts that have 
 come to our knowledge in the neighbourhood where we resided, afford 
 every reason to believe, that from the prevalence of infanticide 
 two-thirds of the children perished. 
 
 We have been told by some of the chiefs, on whose word we can 
 depend, that they have known parents to murder three or four infants 
 where they have spared one. But even supposing that not more 
 than half the children were thus cut off, what an awful spectacle of 
 depravity is presented! how many infants must have been annually 
 sacrificed to a custom so repugnant to all the tenderest feelings of 
 humanity, that, without the clearest evidence, we should not believe 
 it would be found in the catalogue of human crimes. 
 
 REASONS FOR INFANTICIDE. 
 
 The reasons they give for this practice manifest a degree of de- 
 pravity no less affecting. 
 
 Among the Marquesians, who inhabit a group of islands to the 
 southeast of Hawaii, we are told that children are sometimes, during 
 seasons of extreme scarcity, killed and eaten by their parents, to 
 satisfy hunger. 
 
 With the Society Islanders, the rules of the Areoi institutions, and 
 family pride, were the principal motives to its practice. 
 
 If the rank or family of the mother was inferior to that of the 
 father, his relations or friends usually destroyed the child.
 
 245 
 
 More frequently, however, the mother's rank was superior to that 
 of the father. In this case, her relations, in order to avoid the 
 degradation which they supposed it would entail on their family or 
 class in society, almost invariably murdered the child. 
 
 The regulations of the Areoi society were not only abominable and 
 vicious, but exceedingly cruel, and, excepting the chiefs, the members 
 usually destroyed their offspring; and the rearing of any was con- 
 sidered a degradation. 
 
 The reason generally assigned for this was, that nursing children 
 quickly diminished the personal charms of the mother. 
 
 Excepting the latter, which operates in a small degree, none of 
 these motives actuate the Sandwich Islanders; those, however, by 
 which they are influenced are equally criminal. 
 
 Some of the natives have told us that children were formerly 
 sacrificed to the sharks infesting their shores, and which through fear 
 they had deified; but as we have never met with persons who have 
 ever offered any, or seen others do it, this possibly may be only 
 report. 
 
 LAZINESS PRINCIPAL REASON FOR INFANTICIDE. 
 
 The principal motive with the greater part of those who practise 
 it, is idleness; and the reason most frequently assigned, even by the 
 parents themselves, for the murder of their children, is, the trouble 
 of bringing them up. 
 
 In general they are of a changeable disposition, fond of a wan- 
 dering manner of life, and find their children a restraint, pre- 
 venting them, in some degree, from following their roving incli- 
 nations. 
 
 Like other savage nations, they are averse to any more labour than 
 is absolutely necessary. Hence they consider their children a burden, 
 and are unwilling to cultivate a little more ground, or undertake the 
 small additional labour necessary to the support of their offspring 
 during the helpless periods of infancy and childhood. 
 
 In some cases, when the child has been sickly, and the parents 
 have grown tired of nursing and attending it, they have been known, 
 in order to avoid further attendance and care, to bury it at once; 
 and we have been credibly informed that children have been buried 
 alive, merely because of the irritation they have discovered. 
 
 BURIED ALIVE IN FLOOR OF HOUSE. 
 
 On these occasions, when the child has cried more than the parents, 
 particularly the mother, could patiently hoar, instead of clasping the 
 little sufferer to her bosom, and soothing by careSBea the pains which, 
 though unable to tell them, it has probably felt, she has, to free her- 
 self from this annoyance, stopped its cries by thrusting a piece of
 
 246 
 
 tapa into its mouth, dug a hole in the floor of the house, and, per- 
 haps within a few yards of her bed, and the spot where she took 
 her daily meals, has relentlessly buried, in the untimely grave, her 
 helpless babe. 
 
 The Society Islanders buried the infants they destroyed among the 
 bushes, at some distance from their houses; but many of the infants 
 in the Sandwich Islands are buried in the houses in which both 
 parents and child had resided together. 
 
 In the floors, which are frequently of earth or pebbles, a hole is 
 dug, two or three feet deep, into which they put the little infant, 
 placed in a broken calabash, and having a piece of native cloth laid 
 upon its mouth to stop its cries. The hole is then filled up with earth, 
 and the inhuman parents themselves have sometimes joined in tread- 
 ing down the earth upon their own innocent but murdered child. 
 
 INDIFFERENCE OF NATIVES CONCERNING INFANTICIDE. 
 
 The bare recital of these acts of cruelty has often filled our 
 minds with horror, while those who have been engaged in the per- 
 petration of them, have related all their tragical circumstances in 
 detail with apparent unconcern. 
 
 What an affecting view does this practice exhibit of human nature, 
 unaided by the light of revelation, uninfluenced by the mild spirit of 
 true religion, and under the debasing influence of cruel superstition. 
 
 To what an abject state of moral degradation must a people, in 
 many respects extremely interesting, be reduced, to perpetrate, with- 
 out compunction, such atrocities; and what a painful and humiliating 
 demonstration do they afford of the truth of the scripture declara- 
 tion, that "the dark places of the earth are full of the habitations 
 of cruelty." 
 
 Instinct teaches animals to take care of their offspring; even the 
 savage tiger roams the forest to provide for her young, or fearlessly 
 meets death in their defence. But here, where so many advantages 
 combine to increase the comforts of the inhabitants, infants are 
 destroyed by a parent 's hand. 
 
 How great are the obligations of those whose lot is cast in coun- 
 tries favoured with the Bible, to whose domestic society Christianity 
 imparts so much happiness. And how consoling to know, that its 
 principles, wherever imbibed, will produce, even in the most bar- 
 barous communities, such a delightful transformation of character, 
 that the lion and leopard shall become harmless as the lamb and the 
 kid, "and they shall neither hurt nor destroy." 
 
 CHRISTIANITY TERMINATED INFANTICIDE IN SOCIETY ISLANDS. 
 When the natives of the Society Islands embraced the Christian 
 religion, they immediately refrained from this practice. The infants
 
 247 
 
 spared- as they grew up, kindled and cherished in their parents' 
 bosoms emotions they had never before experienced. They became, 
 in general, exceedingly fond of their children. 
 
 I have seen a mother or a father, who have been known to have 
 murdered several children, fondling and nursing a little babe with a 
 degree of tenderness, that, without witnessing it, I could not be- 
 lieve would have been felt by individuals so hardened and insensible 
 as they had formerly been. 
 
 As parental affection increased, they began to view with abhorrence 
 a crime, their former familiarity with which, was now surprising even 
 to themselves; and, in order to mark their sense of its enormity, the 
 very first article in the code of laws proposed by the chiefs, and 
 adopted by the people in most of the Society Islands, shortly after 
 their reception of Christianity, is a prohibition of infanticide, an- 
 nexing the punishment of death to its perpetration under any cir- 
 cumstances whatever. 
 
 ATTEMPTS TO ABOLISH INFANTICIDE IN HAWAII. 
 
 In the Sandwich Islands, although not abolished, we have reason 
 to believe it prevails less extensively now than it did four or five 
 years ago. 
 
 The king, and some of the chiefs, especially Karaimoku, since 
 they have attended to the precepts of Christianity, and have been 
 made acquainted with the direct prohibitions of it in the Bible, have 
 readily expressed in public their conviction of its criminality, and 
 that committing it is in fact pepehi kanaka, (to kill man,) under cir- 
 cumstances which aggravate its guilt. They have also been led to 
 see its impolicy with respect to their resources, in its tendency to 
 depopulate the islands, and render them barren or unprofitable, and, 
 from these views, have lately exerted themselves to suppress it. 
 
 Karaimoku, regent of the islands, has more than once forbidden 
 any parents to destroy their children, and has threatened to punish 
 with banishment, if not with death, any who shall be found guilty 
 of it. 
 
 ONLY RECENTLY THAT CHIEFS HAVE OPPOSED INFANTICIDE. 
 
 After we left Kairua, on our present tour, Kuakini, the governor, 
 published among all the people under his jurisdiction, a strict pro- 
 hibition of this barbarous custom. It is, however, only recently that 
 the chiefs have endeavoured to prevent it, and the people do not very 
 well brook their interference; so that, notwithstanding their efforts, 
 it is still practised, particularly in remote districts, but in general 
 privately, for fear of detection and punishment. 
 
 The check, however, which infanticide has received from the 
 humane and enlightened policy of the chiefs, is encouraging. It war-
 
 248 
 
 rants the most sanguine expectations, that as Christianity advances 
 among the Hawaiians, this, and other customs equally degrading to 
 their character, and destructive of their race, will be entirely laid 
 aside, as has been the case among the Tahitians; and there is every 
 reason to presume, that the pleasing change, which has resulted from 
 the general reception of the gospel among the latter, will, under the 
 divine blessing, be ultimately realized by the Sandwich Islanders. 
 
 May that happy period soon arrive! for if the total abolition of 
 this cruel practice (though amongst the least of its benevolent ob- 
 jects) be the only advantage which the establishment of a Christian 
 Mission in these distant islands shall confer on their inhabitants, yet, 
 in rescuing every year, through all the succeeding generations of 
 this reviving nation, multitudes from a premature death, the liberal 
 assistance of its friends and the labours of its several members will 
 be most amply rewarded. 
 
 KAHUNAS ATTEMPT TO CURE CHIEF. 
 
 On the morning of the 13th we examined some of the eastern parts 
 of the bay. I also visited Maaro. On arriving at the house in which 
 I had left the sick chief yesterday, the natives told me that he had 
 been removed, that the house where he then was, was tabu, and the 
 tabu would be broken if I should go there. They refused to tell where 
 he was, but did not attempt to prevent my going in search for him. 
 
 After travelling a mile and a half inland, I reached the house in 
 which he lay, and was immediately invited to enter. The number 
 of small sticks, with the leaves of the ti plant fastened round them, 
 which I saw fixed in different parts of the house, particularly around 
 the mat on which the chief was reclining, induced me to think they 
 had been performing some incantation for his recovery, or were pre- 
 paring for one. 
 
 I asked one who sat by, and who, I supposed, was a kahuna, (doc- 
 tor,) what remedies they were using for his recovery; but they gave 
 me no answer. The chief seemed to have less pain than yesterday, 
 and was much more communicative. He said the native doctors had 
 brought him there in order to try the effect of medicines, which he 
 trusted would give relief. 
 
 A WARNING AGAINST INCANTATION. 
 
 I told him it was right to use every lawful means for the recovery 
 of health; but cautioned him particularly against having recourse to 
 the incantations of the priests, or making any offerings to their former 
 gods, as that was not only foolish and useless, but offensive to God 
 the author of all our mercies, with whom alone were the issues of life 
 and death.
 
 249 
 
 He made no reply, but turned the conversation, by saying he re- 
 gretted that he was not able to furnish us with a canoe, and that his 
 sickness had not allowed him to be more with us. 
 
 I told him we wished to have had more frequent opportunities of 
 telling him of Jesus Christ; and endeavouring to impress his mind 
 with the necessity of an early application for the pardon of his sins, 
 and the salvation of his spirit. When I left him, he said he would 
 think of these things, and, should he get better, would attend to in- 
 struction, and use his influence to induce his people to attend. 
 
 THE PRACTICE OP MEDICINE AND SORCERY. 
 
 Maaro was attended by two or three natives, who were called 
 kahuna rapaau mai, the name given to those who undertake to cure 
 diseases, from kahuna, a priest, or one expert in his profession, 
 rapaau, to heal, or to apply medicine, and mai, disease. 
 
 Although among the Sandwich Islanders there are none who ex- 
 clusively devote themselves to this employment, there are many 
 who pretend to great skill in the discovery and cure of diseases. 
 They are usually, as their name imports, priests or sorcerers, and 
 seldom administer medicine unaccompanied by some superstitious 
 ceremony. 
 
 The knowledge of the art is frequently communicated from father 
 to son, and thus continued in one family. In their practice they have 
 different departments, and those who are successful in removing in- 
 ternal complaints are most esteemed. 
 
 Febrile disorders are not so prevalent as in many tropical climates, 
 but asthmatic and pulmonary affections are frequent, and the latter 
 generally baffle all their skill. 
 
 HAWAIIAN MEDICINES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. 
 
 "We are not aware that they admit into their materia medica any 
 but vegetable substances, which are variously prepared; sometimes 
 baked, or heated in a cocoa-nut shell, but often applied after being 
 simply bruised with a stone. In the selection and employment of 
 these, they certainly manifest an acquaintance with the medicinal 
 properties of a number of indigenous herbs and roots, which is com- 
 mendable, and may hereafter be turned to a good account. 
 
 Several of their applications, simply as they are prepared, are, how- 
 ever, very powerful, and sometimes fatal in their effects. They had 
 till lately no means of employing a warm bath, but frequently steamed 
 their patients on an oven of heated stones, or placed them over the 
 6moke of a fire covered with green succulent herbs. 
 
 They have also a singular method of employing friction by rolling 
 a stone or cannon shot over the part in pain.
 
 250 
 
 I went one day into a house belonging to Karaimoku, where a chief 
 was lying on his face, and the kahuna, or his attendant, was rolling 
 a cannon shot of twelve or fourteen pounds weight backwards and 
 forwards along his back, in order to alleviate the pain. 
 
 OCULISTS AND SURGERY. 
 
 There were also among them oculists, who were celebrated for cur- 
 ing diseases of the eye, and who were sometimes sent for by persons 
 residing many miles distant. But in surgery they seem to be far 
 behind the Society Islanders. 
 
 Their operations were usually performed with no small degree of 
 roughness and insensibility; and from what I have seen, I am strongly 
 inclined to think that the sense the natives have of pain is less than 
 ours, or their powers of endurance greater. 
 
 In setting a broken leg or an arm, they were frequently successful. 
 Not so, however, when they attempted, as was sometimes the case, 
 more difficult operations. 
 
 They relate, that when some of their warriors have had the bones 
 of their head fractured by a blow or a stone in battle, they have 
 removed the pieces of bone, fitted in a piece of cocoa-nut shell, cov- 
 ered the skin over, and that the patient has recovered; but although 
 they say there are persons living on whom it has been performed, I 
 never saw one, and can hardly credit their having recovered, though 
 I believe they performed the operation. 
 
 DISPOSITION OF NATIVES TOWARD FOREIGN MEDICINE AND 
 TREATMENT. 
 
 The chiefs, and many of the natives, who are accustomed to asso- 
 ciate with foreigners, have entirely discarded the native doctors; and 
 in times of sickness apply to the physician connected with the Ameri- 
 can mission, to the surgeon on shore, or one belonging to any ship in 
 harbour, and shew a decided preference to foreign medicine. 
 
 The great body of the people, however, are generally averse to our 
 remedies, and prefer the attendance of the native doctors. The em- 
 ployment is somewhat profitable, and the fee, which is either a piece 
 of cloth, a mat, a pig, or dog, &e. is usually paid before the kahuna 
 undertakes the case. 
 
 NATIVE TRADITION OF ORIGIN OF ART OF MEDICINE. 
 
 In conversation on this subject with the governor at Kairua, I once 
 asked him what first induced them to employ herbs, &c. for the 
 cure of diseases. 
 
 He said that, many generations back, a man called Koreamoku 
 obtained all their medicinal herbs from the gods, who also taught him
 
 251 
 
 the use of them: that after his death he was deified, and a wooden 
 image of him placed in the large temple at Kairua, to which offerings 
 of hogs, fish, and cocoa-nuts were frequently presented. 
 
 Oronopuha and Makanuiairono, two friends and disciples of Korea- 
 moku, continued to practise the art after the death of their master, 
 and were also deified after death, particularly because they were fre- 
 quently successful in driving away the evil spirits by which the peo- 
 ple were afflicted and threatened with death. This is the account 
 they have of the first use of herbs medicinally; and to these deified 
 men the prayers of the kahuna are addressed, when medicine is ad- 
 ministered to the sick. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF WAIAKEA OR BYRON'S BAY. 
 
 During the day we examined various parts of the district on the 
 western side, and sounded in several places along the channel leading 
 into the bay. The district of Waiakea, and the bay of the same 
 name, the "Whye-a-te-a Bay of Vancouver, form the southern boundary 
 of the division of Hiro, are situated on the north-east coast of 
 Hawaii, and distant about twenty or twenty-five miles from the east- 
 ern point of the island. Eecently in some of the public journals this 
 bay has been called Byron's Bay, having been visited and explored 
 by Captain Lord Byron, on his late voyage to the Sandwich Islands 
 in his majesty's ship Blonde. 
 
 The highest peak of Mouna-Kea bears due west from the sandy 
 beach, at the bottom or south end of the bay. 
 
 In the centre, or rather towards the south-east side, is a small 
 island connected with the shore by a number of rocks, and covered 
 with cocoa-nut trees. South-west of this small island the native ves- 
 sels usually anchor, and are thereby sheltered from all winds to the 
 eastward of north-east. The bottom is good across the whole extent 
 of the bay, but the western side is more exposed to the prevailing 
 trade-winds. 
 
 There is a shoal extending perhaps two miles from the above men- 
 tioned island. It is therefore necessary in going into the harbour 
 to keep near the western shore, which is very bold; the water is deep, 
 and the passage free from rocks. 
 
 RIVERS EMPTYING INTO BAY. 
 
 There are three streams of fresh water, which empty themselves 
 into the bay. One on the western angle is called Wairuku. It rises 
 near the summit of Mouna-Kea, and, after taking a circuitous course 
 for several miles, runs rapidly into the sea. 
 
 Two others, called Wairama and Waiakea, rise in springs, boiling 
 up through the hollows of the lava, at a short distance from the shore,
 
 252 
 
 fill several large fish-ponds, and afterwards empty themselves into the 
 sea. Waiakea, on the eastern side of the bay, is tolerably deep, and is 
 navigated by canoes and boats some distance inland. 
 
 PRODUCTS OF WAJAKEA. 
 
 The face of the country in the vicinity of Waiakea is the most 
 beautiful we have yet seen, which is probably occasioned by the 
 humidity of the atmosphere, the frequent rains that fall here, and 
 the long repose which the district has experienced from volcanic erup- 
 tions. 
 
 The light and fertile soil is formed by decomposed lava, with a 
 considerable portion of vegetable mould. The whole is covered with 
 luxuriant vegetation, and the greater part of it formed into planta- 
 tions, where plantains, bananas, sugar-cane, taro, potatoes, and melons, 
 grow to the greatest perfection. 
 
 Groves of cocoa-nut and breadfruit trees are seen in every direction 
 loaded with fruit, or clothed with umbrageous foliage. The houses 
 are mostly larger and better built than those of many districts 
 through which we had passed. We thought the people generally 
 industrious; for in several of the less fertile parts of the district 
 we saw small pieces of lava thrown up in heaps, and potato vines 
 growing very well in the midst of them, though we could scarcely 
 perceive a particle of soil. 
 
 DUCKS AND FISH IN THE PONDS. 
 
 There are plenty of ducks in the ponds and streams, at a short dis- 
 tance from the sea, and several large ponds or lakes literally swarm 
 with fish, principally of the mullet kind. The fish in these ponds be- 
 long to the king and chiefs, and are tabued from the common people. 
 
 Along the stone walls which partly encircle these ponds, we saw a 
 number of small huts, where the persons reside who have the care of 
 the fish, and are obliged frequently to feed them with a small kind 
 of muscle, which they procure in the sands round the bay. 
 
 The district of Waiakea, though it does not include more than half 
 the bay, is yet extensive. Kukuwau in the middle of the bay is its 
 western boundary, from which, passing along the eastern side, it ex- 
 tends ten or twelve miles towards Kaau, the last district in the divi- 
 sion of Puna. 
 
 RECOMMENDED AS A MISSION STATION. 
 
 Taking every circumstance into consideration, this appears a most 
 eligible spot for a missionary station. The fertility of the soil, the 
 abundance of fresh water, the convenience of the harbour, the dense
 
 253 
 
 population, and the favourable reception we have met with, all com- 
 bine to give it a stronger claim to immediate attention than any other 
 place we have yet seen, except Kairua. 
 
 There are 400 houses in the bay, and probably not less than 2000 
 inhabitants, who would be immediately embraced in the operations 
 of a missionary station here, besides the populous places to the north 
 and south, that might be occasionally visited by itinerant preachers 
 from Waiakea. 
 
 INTERVIEW WITH THREE MARQUESANS. 
 
 In the afternoon I preached in front of the house where we held 
 our worship on the last Sabbath. There were three Marquesians 
 present, who arrived here but a few weeks ago. After the service 
 was ended, they said it was maitai, or good. 
 
 I asked them from what island they came. They said "Fatu- 
 hiva, " (La Magdalena,) and that there were seven white men and 
 two negroes living on their island, but they did not tell them any 
 thing concerning Jehovah or Jesus Christ. 
 
 I then asked them if they thought their countrymen would receive 
 and protect Christian teachers, "Yes," they all answered, "we are 
 sure they would." "But you kill and eat white people; missionaries 
 would not be safe among you." They seemed affected by this obser- 
 vation, and, after a moment's pause, exclaimed, "O, no! O, no! you 
 would not injure us, and should never be injured by us. ' ' 
 
 These strangers, possessing all the vivacity natural to their coun- 
 trymen, could not fail to excite in our minds strong feelings of in- 
 terest; and we can but hope a Christian mission will soon be es- 
 tablished in those islands. Many advantages might be expected to 
 result from it; and, among others, the security of vessels touching 
 there for refreshments. 
 
 MISSIONARY EFFORT IN TAHITI AND MARQUESAS. 
 
 The natives of these islands have frequently sent to Tahiti for 
 teachers, and, since the above was written, they have been visited by 
 Mr. Crook, a missionary, who was in 1797 stationed among them, but 
 who is now labouring in Tahiti. The natives of Tahuata were 
 favourably disposed towards instruction, and three native teachers 
 from the Society Islands were left among them, preparatory to the 
 establishment of a permanent mission in the Marquesas. 
 
 It is truly distressing to hear so frequently of the murderous quar- 
 rels which take place between the natives of the Marquesas, and other 
 islands in the Pacific, and the crews of ships visiting them; which, 
 we think, would be in a great degree prevented, were missionaries 
 permanently residing among them.
 
 254 
 
 The natives are sometimes exceedingly deceitful and treacherous 
 in their dealings with foreigners, and the conduct of the latter is not 
 always such as to inspire confidence. 
 
 The missionaries in the Society Islands have often been the means 
 of preventing the consequences to which the misunderstanding of the 
 natives and foreigners would in all probability have led. 
 
 A DISHONEST CAPTAIN. 
 
 Once in particular, about four years ago, a captain, who had never 
 visited them before, and has not been there since, touched at a small 
 island to the south-west of Tahiti, bargained with the natives for 
 a number of hogs, agreeing to give in exchange for them tools or 
 clothing. 
 
 The natives carried to the ship, which was lying off and on, five or 
 six large hogs in a canoe; they were hoisted in, when, instead of re- 
 turning the stipulated articles, the captain threw down into their 
 canoe a bundle of old iron, principally iron hoops, cast loose the rope 
 by which they held on to the ship, and sailed away. 
 
 The natives returned to the shore; a council was held, in which it 
 was agreed to take revenge on the first ship that should arrive. In 
 the interim, however, a missionary from one of the Society Islands, 
 whom they had,, long known, visited them, and being made acquainted 
 with the circumstances, dissuaded them from their purpose, promised 
 to make up their loss, and thus, in all probability, the death of several 
 innocent persons was prevented. 
 
 THE LAST NIGHT AT WAIAKEA. 
 
 While we were engaged in worship at Waiakea, Messrs. Bishop 
 and Thurston went over to Pueho, on the western shore, and Mr. 
 Thurston preached to about 100 of the people at the house of Kapapa, 
 the head man. When the service was ended, Kapapa accompanied 
 them to the east side of the bay, in the double canoe which had been 
 hired to convey us to Laupahoehoe. 
 
 As we intended to leave Waiakea early in the morning, I paid a 
 farewell visit to Maaro this evening. The chief seemed more in- 
 disposed than when I last saw him, was restless, and apparently in 
 much pain. 
 
 After spending some time in religious conversation with Maaro 
 and his household, I took leave of them, and enjoyed a pleasant 
 walk back through the lonely village. 
 
 The noise of the rolling surf on the distant beach was occasionally 
 heard; the passing breeze caused a frequent rustling among the slen- 
 der leaves of the cocoa-nut groves; while the rapid stream rippled 
 over its pebbly bed in several places close by the path. The glim-
 
 255 
 
 mering lights in the native huts shed their enlivening rays through 
 the thick foliage of the surrounding gardens, and the beating of the 
 drum, and the sound of the hura, with transient intervals between, 
 broke upon the ear from several directions. 
 
 These last, though far more agreeable than the drunken halloo, 
 the savage war-cry, or the horrid yell from the mysterious and dark 
 heiau, I yet could not but hope would soon be exchanged for the 
 words of inspired truth, read aloud from the holy scriptures, the 
 cheerful hymn of praise, or the solemn language of family devotion, 
 so frequently heard from the lowly Tahitian cottage, during an 
 evening walk through the happy villages of the Society Islands. 
 
 TRAVEL BY CANOE TO LAUPAHOEHOE. 
 
 At daybreak on the 14th, after morning worship with the people 
 who crowded our house, we made arrangements for our departure. 
 Mr. Harwood remained, to return to Oahu in the brig Inore, lying at 
 anchor in the bay, as he would thereby be enabled to transact some 
 business for the mission, and also avoid travelling over the ravines 
 of Hiro and Hamakua. 
 
 Soon after six a. m. we embarked on board our canoe, and passed 
 over the reef to the deep water on the western side of the bay. The 
 weather was calm, and the men laboured with their paddles till about 
 eight, when the maranai (east wind) sprung up, and wafted us pleas- 
 antly along the shore. We found our double canoe very convenient, 
 for it had a pora (or stage) raised in the middle, which provided a 
 comfortable seat, and also kept our packages above the spray of the 
 sea. 
 
 HAWAIIAN CANOES DESCRIBED. 
 
 The pora is formed by tying slight poles to the iako, or cross pieces 
 that connect the two canoes together, from the foremost iako to 
 the one nearest the stern. The cross pieces are not straight, but bent 
 like a bow, and form an arch between the two canoes, which raises 
 the pora or stage at least two feet higher than the sides of the canoe. 
 
 When the breeze sprang up, four of the men laid down their pad- 
 dles, and attended to the sail, while one man sat in the stern of each 
 canoe with a large paddle to steer. 
 
 Our canoe, though made of heavy wood, was thin, and consequently 
 light, and, as the wind increased, seemed at a rapid rate to skim along 
 the tops of the waves; dashing through the crested foam with a de- 
 gree of velocity, which, but for the confidence we reposed in the 
 skill and address of our pilots, would have excited no small degree 
 of apprehension for our safety. 
 
 The canoes of the Sandwich Islands appear eminently calculated
 
 256 
 
 for swiftness, being long, narrow, generally light, and drawing but 
 little water. 
 
 SIZE AND FINISH OP CANOES. 
 
 A canoe is always made out of a "single tree; some of them are 
 upwards of seventy feet long, one or two feet wide, and sometimes 
 more than three feet deep, though in length they seldom exceed 
 fifty feet. 
 
 The body of the canoe is generally covered with a black paint, made 
 by the natives with various earthy and vegetable materials, in which 
 the bark, oil, and burnt nuts of the kukui tree are the principal 
 ingredients. 
 
 On the upper edge of the canoe is sewed, in a remarkably neat 
 manner, a small strip of hard white wood, from six to eight inches 
 in width, according to the size and length of the canoe. These strips 
 meet and close over the top at both stem and stern, and shoot off 
 much water that would otherwise enter the canoe. 
 
 SPEED OP HAWAIIAN CANOES— SAILING AND PADDLING. 
 
 All the canoes of these islands are remarkably strong and neatly 
 made; and though not so large as those of New Zealand, the Society 
 Islands, or some of the other islands to the southward, are certainly 
 better made; and would probably paddle or sail faster than any of 
 them. 
 
 One man will sometimes paddle a single canoe faster than a good 
 boat's crew could row a whale-boat. Their tackling is simple and 
 convenient; the mast generally has a notch cut at the lower end, and 
 is placed on one of the cross pieces to which it is tied; the sails they 
 now use, are made of mats, and cut in imitation of the sprit-sails of 
 foreign boats, which, they say, they find much better than the kind 
 of sail they had when first visited by foreigners. 
 
 When sailing with a fresh breeze, the ropes from the lower corners 
 of the sails are always loosened, and held in the hands of persons 
 whose only business it is to keep them properly trimmed. 
 
 Their paddles, which are large and strong, are generally four or 
 five feet long, have an oval-shaped blade and round handle, and are 
 made of the same hard and heavy wood employed in building their 
 canoes. They are not handsome, and their weight must make pad- 
 dling very laborious. 
 
 Neither the canoes nor paddles of the Sandwich Islanders are carved 
 like those of many islands in the Pacific. Their canoes are, never- 
 theless, remarkably neat, and sometimes handsome.
 
 257 
 DESCRIPTION OF HILO DISTRICT. 
 
 The country, by which we sailed, was fertile, beautiful, and appar- 
 ently populous. The numerous plantations on the eminences and sides 
 of the deep ravines or valleys, by which it was intersected, with the 
 streams meandering through them into the sea, presented altogether 
 a most agreeable prospect. The coast was bold, and the rocks evi- 
 dently volcanic. "We frequently saw the water gushing out of hol- 
 lows in the face of the rocks, or flowing in cascades from the top 
 to the bottom. 
 
 After sailing pleasantly for several hours, we approached Laupa- 
 hoehoe: we had proceeded upwards of twenty miles, and had passed 
 not less than fifty ravines or valleys, but we had not seen a spot where 
 we thought it would be possible to land without being swamped; and 
 although we knew we had arrived at the end of our voyage, we could 
 discover no place by which it seemed safe to approach the shore, as 
 the surf was beating violently, and the wind blowing directly towards 
 the land. 
 
 LANDING AT LAUPAHOEHOE. 
 
 However, when we came within a few yards of the surf, we per- 
 ceived an opening in the rocks, just wide enough to admit our canoe. 
 Into this our pilots steered with uncommon address and precision; 
 and before we could look round, we found our canoe on a sandy 
 beach, a few yards long, entirely defended by rocks of lava from the 
 rolling surf on the outside. 
 
 It was one p. m. when we landed, and walked up to the house of 
 the head man, where we had a few fish and some potatoes, that we 
 had brought with us, prepared for dinner. After the people of the 
 place had been spoken to on the subject of religion, they said they 
 had heard there were missionaries living at Oahu, teaching the king 
 to read, and write, and pray. They had also heard of Jehovah, but 
 not of Jesus Christ. It was compassionate in the great God, they 
 added, to think of them, and send his word among them. 
 
 After remaining an hour or two, we proposed to proceed, but could 
 not prevail on Makoa to go any further that night. He said we had 
 come far enough for one day, and had better stay till the morning. 
 He also complained of being tired with bailing out the canoe. We 
 knew this was only an excuse, and that the principal reason why he 
 wished to stop was because the head man of the place had invited 
 us to remain, and had told us that if we would spend the night there, 
 he would have a pig and some taro cooked. Makoa could not agree 
 to lose the benefit of this offer; but as we were refreshed, and thought 
 it best to proceed, we thanked the chief for his kindness, and, finding 
 
 17
 
 258 
 
 our guide determined to stay, we took each a blanket for a covering 
 at night, and resumed our journey. 
 
 FROM LAUPAHOEHOE TO HUMUULA. 
 
 Leaving Laupahoehoe, we ascended the north side of the deep 
 ravine, at the bottom of which the village is situated. We reached 
 the top after climbing between 400 and 500 feet, and beheld a 
 beautiful country before us. Over this we travelled about five miles 
 in a W. N. W. direction towards the foot of Mouna-Kea, and after 
 passing three deep ravines, reached Humuula shortly before sun-set. 
 
 This retired little village is situated on the edge of a wood, ex- 
 tending along the base of Mouna-Kea. We directed our steps to 
 the principal house in the village, and invited the people of the neigh- 
 bourhood to meet us there. They soon collected, and listened with 
 apparent interest to a short discourse. Many continued with us till 
 a late hour in conversation, which to them is usually a source of no 
 small gratification. 
 
 HAWAIIAN CUSTOM TO TALK AND SING ALL NIGHT 
 
 We have several times during our tour been kept awake by the 
 natives in the houses where we lodged, who have continued talking 
 and singing till near daybreak. Circumstances the most trivial some- 
 times furnish conversation for hours. Their songs also afford much 
 amusement, and it is no unusual thing for the family to entertain 
 their guests with these, or for strangers to gratify their host by re- 
 citing those of their own island or neighbourhood. 
 
 More than once, when we have entered a house, some of the inmates 
 have shortly afterwards commenced a song, accompanied occasionally 
 by a little drum, or the beating of the raau hura, musical stick; and 
 the natives, who formerly visited Hawaii from the Society Islands, ex- 
 cited no small degree of interest by reciting the songs of their 
 country. 
 
 It is probable that many of the fabulous tales and songs so popular 
 among them, have originated in the gratification they find in thus 
 spending their time. This kind of amusement is common to most of 
 the South Sea Islands. 
 
 HABITS OF SONG, CONVERSATION AND GOSSIP IN THE PACIFIC. 
 
 The Sandwich Islanders equal the Marquesians, the most lively 
 natives of the Pacific, in the number of their songs, and exceed the 
 Society Islanders; but their conversational powers are inferior to 
 those of the latter, who are perhaps the most loquacious of them all. 
 
 An acquaintance with every body's business used almost to be
 
 259 
 
 cultivated as an accomplishment; and inquiries, which, to us would 
 appear most officious, were only common civilities. To meet a party, 
 and not ask where they came from, or where they were going, what 
 was their business, and when they intended to return, would be con- 
 sidered indicative of displeasure towards the party thus neglected, or 
 at least of want of interest in their welfare. 
 
 HOSPITALITY OF HAWAIIAN'S AND SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS. 
 
 Our hostess, who was a widow, treated us kindly, and between 
 seven and eight brought in for supper a small baked pig, and a large 
 dish of taro. This was the more grateful, as it had not been required 
 by Makoa in the governor's name, but was furnished by the genuine 
 hospitality which characterizes the South Sea Islanders, though not 
 practised so much by the Hawaiians as by some other tribes in the 
 Pacific, and we believe much less now than when the Sandwich 
 Islands were first discovered, or during the earlier visits they re- 
 ceived. 
 
 They are still, however, a hospitable people, and even the poorest 
 would generally share their scanty dish of potatoes with a stranger. 
 
 Not to entertain a guest with what they have, is, among themselves, 
 considered reproachful; and there are many, who, if they had but one 
 pig or fowl in the yard, or one root of potatoes in the garden, would 
 cheerfully take them to furnish a repast for a friend. This generous 
 disposition is frequently abused, and encourages the rambling manner 
 of life of which many are so fond. 
 
 HAWAIIAN SOCIAL CUSTOMS. 
 
 It is not unusual for a family, when they have planted their field 
 with sweet potatoes, &c. to pay a visit for four or five months to 
 some friend in a distant part of the island. When the crop is ripe 
 they travel home again, and in return are most likely visited by a 
 friend, who will not think of leaving them so long as any of their 
 provisions remain unconsumed. This, however, is only the case where 
 friendship has previously existed between the parties. 
 
 A transient visitor on arriving among them will generally have an 
 entertainment provided, of which the persons who furnish it seldom 
 partake. The family with which we lodged were, however, induced 
 to join us this evening at supper, though contrary to their ideas of 
 propriety. 
 
 Whenever we have remarked to the natives that their conduct in 
 this respect is unsocial, they have usually answered, "Would it be 
 right for us to present food to our friends, and then sit down and eat 
 of it ourselves?"
 
 260 
 
 Connected with this, another custom, equally at variance with our 
 views of hospitality, is practised by the guests, who invariably carry 
 away all that remains of the entertainment, however abundant it may 
 have been. Hence, whenever a pig, &c. has been dressed for us, 
 and our party have finished their meal; our boys always put the re- 
 mainder into their baskets, and carried it away. To this we often 
 objected: but they usually replied, "It is our custom; and if we don't 
 take it, the people will think you are dissatisfied with what they 
 have provided." 
 
 The entertainment given to strangers or visitors is regulated by 
 the means of the host, or the rank of the guests. 
 
 SOCIAL CUSTOMS OP SOCIETY ISLANDERS. 
 
 In the Society Islands their feasts were formerly characterized by 
 a degree of prodigality extremely oppressive to the people who had 
 to furnish the provisions. 
 
 I once saw in the island of Raiatea upwards of fifty large baked 
 hogs, and a proportionate quantity of poe, yams, &c. served up at 
 one time for a party of chiefs on a visit from the Georgian or Wind- 
 ward Islands. 
 
 DOGS THE PRINCIPAL MEAT. 
 
 In this respect the Sandwich Islanders are not behind their southern 
 neighbours, but in their feasts the flesh of the dog constitutes the 
 principal meat. 
 
 I have seen nearly two hundred dogs cooked at one time; and dur- 
 ing the last visit which Taumuarii, late king of Tauai, and Kaahu- 
 manu his queen, paid Kuakini, the governor of this island, a feast 
 was prepared for them by the latter, at which Auna was present, and 
 counted four hundred baked dogs, with fish and hogs, and vegetables 
 in proportion. 
 
 Sometimes the food is spread out on the ground, which is previously 
 covered with grass or green leaves; the party sit down around it, and 
 the chiefs distribute it among them, after the servants have carved 
 it with a knife, or with a piece of bamboo cane, which, before 
 visited by foreigners, was the only kind of knife they possessed. 
 
 DIVISION OP FOOD AT A FEAST. 
 
 The serrated edge of the hard bamboo cane, when but recently 
 split, is very sharp; and we have often been surprised at the facility 
 with which they cut up a large hog with no other instrument. 
 
 The head of a hog, or at least the brains, were always offered to 
 the principal chief of the party; particular parts were given to the
 
 261 
 
 priests, if any were present; while the backbone and the tail were 
 the usual perquisites of the person who carved. 
 
 In general, however, when such large presents of food are made, 
 each hog or dog when baked is put into a distinct basket, and piled 
 up in heaps in the court-yard, in front of the house where the chief 
 is residing; the fish, dogs, and vegetables, in separate heaps. 
 
 "When collected, the chief conies out to look at it, and those who 
 have brought it retire. He then calls his stewards — directs them to 
 select a portion for his own table — distributes some among the chiefs 
 in the neighbourhood, in which the chief who has provided the feast 
 is frequently included — and divides the rest among his own followers, 
 who sometimes amount to two or three hundred. 
 
 DOG FARMS. 
 
 Numbers of dogs, of rather a small size, and something like a ter- 
 rier, are raised every year as an article of food. They are mostly 
 fed on vegetables; and we have sometimes seen them kept in yards, 
 with small houses to sleep in. 
 
 A part of the rent of every tenant who occupies land, is paid in 
 dogs for his landlord's table. 
 
 Though often invited by the natives to join them in partaking of 
 the baked dog, we were never induced to taste of one. The natives, 
 however, say it is sweeter than the flesh of the pig, and much more 
 palatable than that of goats or kids, which some refuse to touch, 
 and few care to eat. 
 
 These feasts are much less frequent than formerly, particularly 
 among those chiefs who have opportunities for frequent inter- 
 course with foreigners, several of whom now spread their table in 
 the European manner, and invite their friends to dine, or entertain 
 their guests at home, and treat them as members of their family 
 while they remain under their roof. 
 
 Several members of the family we had lodged with, united with 
 us in our morning worship on the 15th, after which we breakfasted 
 together. 
 
 While thus engaged, Makoa arrived with our baggage, and about 
 eight a. m. we were ready to proceed. Unwilling that our hostess 
 should suffer by her kindness, we presented her with as much blue 
 cotton cloth as would amply pay for the supper she had generously 
 furnished last evening, and then set out on our journey. 
 
 TRAMPING FROM I1ILO TO BAMAKTJA. 
 
 The wide-extended prospect which our morning walk afforded, of 
 the ocean, and the shores of Hamakua on our right, was agreeably 
 diversified by the occasional appearance of the snow-capt peaks of
 
 262 
 
 Mouna-Kea, seen through the openings in the trees on our left. The 
 body of the mountain was hid by the wood, and the different peaks 
 only appeared like so many distinct hills at a great distance. The 
 highest peak bore S. W. by S. from Humuula. 
 
 The high land over which we passed was generally woody, though 
 the trees were not large. The places that were free from wood, 
 were covered with long grass and luxuriant ferns. The houses mostly 
 stood singly, and were scattered over the face of the country. 
 
 A rich field of potatoes or taro, five or six acres sometimes in ex- 
 tent, or large plantations of sugar-cane and bananas, occasionally 
 bordered our path. But though the soil was excellent, it was only 
 partially cultivated. The population also appeared less than what 
 we had seen inhabiting some of the most desolate parts of the island. 
 
 About 10 a. m. we reached the pleasant and verdant valley of 
 Kaura, which separates the divisions of Hilo and Hamakua. 
 
 HOW BOUNDARIES ARE MARKED. 
 
 The geographical divisions of Hawaii, and the other islands of the 
 group, are sometimes artificial, and a stone image, a line of stones 
 somewhat distant from each other, a path, or a stone wall, serves 
 to separate the different districts, or larger divisions, from each 
 other. They are, however, more frequently natural, as in the present 
 instance, where a watercourse, winding through the centre of the 
 valley, marked the boundary of these two divisions. The boundary 
 of the smaller districts, and even the different farms, as well as the 
 large divisions, are definitely marked, well understood, and permanent. 
 
 Each division, district, village, and farm, and many of the sites of 
 houses, have a distinct name, which is often significant of some 
 object or quality distinguishing the place. 
 
 WORSHIP OF PELE STILL PRACTISED. 
 
 On descending to the bottom of the valley, we reached a heiau 
 dedicated to Pele, with several rude stone idols, wrapped up in white 
 and yellow cloth, standing in the midst of it. A number of wreaths 
 of flowers, pieces of sugar-cane, and other presents, some of which 
 were not yet faded, lay strewed around, and we were told that every 
 passing traveller left a trifling offering before them. 
 
 Once in a year, we were also informed, the inhabitants of Hama- 
 kua brought large gifts of hogs, dogs, and fruit, when the priests 
 and kahu of Pele assembled to perform certain rites, and partake of 
 the feast. 
 
 This annual festival, we were told, was designed to propitiate the 
 volcanic goddess, and secure their country from earthquakes, or inun- 
 dations of lava. Locks of human hair were among: the offerings
 
 263 
 
 made to Pele. They were frequently presented to this goddess by 
 those who passed by the crater of Kirauea, on which occasions they 
 were thrown into the crater, a short address being made at the same 
 time to the deity supposed to reside there. 
 
 THEOLOGICAL DISCUSSION WITH NATIVES. 
 
 We ventured to deviate from the custom of travellers in general; 
 yet, though we presented no offerings, we did not proceed to pull 
 down the heiau, and irritate the people by destroying their idols, but 
 entered into conversation with them on the folly of worshipping such 
 senseless things, and pointed out the more excellent way of propi- 
 tiating the favour of Jehovah, the true God, with sacrifices of thanks- 
 giving and praise, placing all their hopes in his mercy, and depending 
 for security on his providence. 
 
 They took what we said in good part, and answered, that though 
 the stones could not save them, the being whom they represented, or 
 in honour of whom they were erected, was very powerful, and capable 
 of devouring their land, and destroying the people. This we denied; 
 and told them that volcanoes, and all their powers, were under the 
 control of that God, whom we wished them to choose for their God and 
 Saviour. 
 
 When a drawing had been taken of this beautiful valley, where 
 kukui trees, plantains, bananas, and ti plants were growing spon- 
 taneously with unusual richness of foliage and flower, we took leave 
 of the people, and, continuing our journey, entered Hamakua. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE HILO DISTRICT. 
 
 Hiro, which we had now left, though not so extensive and populous 
 as Kona, is the most fertile and interesting division on the island. 
 
 The coast from Waiakea to this place is bold and steep, and inter- 
 sected by numerous valleys or ravines; many of these are apparently 
 formed by the streams from the mountains, which flow through them 
 into the sea. The rocks along the coast are volcanic, generally a 
 brown vesicular lava. In the sides and bottoms of some of the ravines, 
 they were occasionally of very hard compact lava, or a kind of basalt. 
 
 This part of the island, from the district of Waiakea to the north- 
 ern point, appears to have remained many years undisturbed by vol- 
 canic eruptions. The habitations of the natives generally appear in 
 clusters at the opening of the valleys, or scattered over the face of the 
 high land. The soil is fertile, and herbage abundant. 
 
 The lofty Mouna-Kea, rising about the centre of this division, forms 
 a conspicuous object in every view that can be taken of it. The base 
 of the mountain on this Bide is covered with woods, which occa- 
 Bionally extend within five or six miles of the shore.
 
 264 
 
 CLIMATE OF HILO AND HAMAKUA. 
 
 While the division of Kona, on the leeward side of the island, is 
 often several months without a shower, rain is frequent in this and 
 the adjoining division of Hamakua, which form the centre of the 
 windward coast, and is doubtless the source of their abundant fer- 
 tility. The climate is warm. Our thermometer was usually 71° at 
 sun-rise; 74° at noon; and 72° or 73° at sun-set. Notwithstanding 
 these natural advantages, the inhabitants, excepting at Waiakea, did 
 not appear better supplied with the necessaries of life than those of 
 Kona, or the more barren parts of Hawaii. They had better houses, 
 plenty of vegetables, some dogs, and a few hogs, but hardly any 
 fish, a principal article of food with the natives in general. 
 
 THRU KEARAKAHA, MANIENIE AND TOUMOARII. 
 
 About mid-day we came to a village called Kearakaha, where we 
 collected the people, and preached to them. They listened attentively, 
 and conversed very freely afterwards on what had been said. 
 
 Leaving Kearakaha, we continued our walk to Manienie, where we 
 dined, and rested two or three hours. During our stay we addressed 
 the people as usual. 
 
 Shortly after four in the afternoon we left Manienie, and travelled 
 over a well-cultivated tract of country, till we reached Toumoarii, 
 where we put up for the night, as we were considerably fatigued 
 with our day's journey, having crossed nearly twenty ravines, some 
 of which were from 300 to 400 feet deep. The people collected in 
 front of the head man's house, for religious worship; and the service 
 was concluded with singing and prayer just as the sun was setting. 
 
 We spent the evening in conversation with the people of the house. 
 Many of them exclaimed, "Makemake au ia Jesu Kraist. Aroha nui 
 o Jesu!" I desire Jesus Christ; great is Jesus' love. 
 
 MAKOA AS A RELIGIOUS TEACHER. 
 
 Makoa, as usual, excited much interest among the natives by the 
 accounts he gave of our journey, &c. This evening he turned theo- 
 logian, and while we were at supper, we heard him telling a party 
 around him in another part of the house, that heaven was a place 
 where there was neither salt fish, nor calabashes of poe. Indeed, 
 added he, we shall never want any there, for we shall never be hun- 
 gry. But in order to get there, much is to be done. A man that 
 wishes to go there, must live peaceably with his neighbours; must 
 never be idle; and, moreover, must be a kanaka opu nui ore, i. e. must 
 not be a glutton. 
 
 "We arose at day-light on the 16th, and shortly after left Taumoarii.
 
 265 
 
 We had not travelled more than four or five miles when we reached 
 Kaahua. After breakfast, we proceeded on our journey over a coun- 
 try equal in fertility to any we had passed since leaving "Waiakea. 
 The houses were in general large, containing usually three or four 
 families each. Mr. Goodrich was indisposed through the day, which 
 obliged us to travel but slowly. 
 
 PREACHING AT KOLOAHA AND KAPULENA. 
 
 Near noon we stopped at Koloaha, and, while he reclined beneath 
 the shade of an adjoining grove of trees, I addressed the assembled 
 natives on the subject of religion. 
 
 After remaining about two hours, we walked to another village, 
 where Mr. Thurston spoke to the people, who gave good attention. 
 
 "We then kept on our way till we reached Malanahae, where a con- 
 gregation of the people assembled, with whom we conversed some 
 short time, then bade them farewell, and about three p. m. reached 
 Kapulena, where we preached to upwards of 100 of the people. 
 
 At this place we thought it best to form ourselves into two parties, 
 in order that we might preach to the natives along the northern parts 
 of the island, and examine the interior between this place and Towai- 
 hae. It was therefore arranged that Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich 
 should spend the Sabbath here, and on Monday morning pass over 
 to "Waimea, and thence to Towaihae, while Mr. Thurston and myself 
 travelled through the villages on the northern shores. 
 
 THE PARTY SEPARATES. 
 
 On Monday morning Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich commenced their 
 journey to Waimea. Having procured a man to carry their baggage, 
 they left Kapulena, and, taking an inland direction, passed over a 
 pleasant country, gently undulated with hill and dale. The soil was 
 fertile, the vegetation flourishing, and there was considerable culti- 
 vation, though but few inhabitants. 
 
 THRU WAIMEA AND KAWAIHAE— MEETING WITH JOHN YOUNG. 
 
 About noon they reached the valley of Waimea, lying at the foot 
 of Mouna-Kea, on the northwest side. Here a number of villages 
 appeared on each side of the path, surrounded with plantations, in 
 which plantains, sugar-cane, and taro, were seen growing unusually 
 large. At 4 p. m. they obtained a view of the ocean, and kept on 
 their way towards Towaihae. 
 
 When they had travelled several miles the sun went down, and, no 
 houses being near, they spread their blankets on the ground, and .slept 
 comfortably in the open air.
 
 266 
 
 At break of day on the 19th they began to descend, and, after 
 walking about two hours, reached Towaihae, where they were hos- 
 pitably received by Mr. Young, with whom they spent the day. 
 
 Having heard that a schooner from Oahu was at Keauhou, they left 
 Towaihae in the evening in a canoe belonging to Mr. Young, and 
 proceeded to Kairua, where the schooner was lying at anchor. 
 
 ALONG THE CROOKED TRAIL TO WAIPIO. 
 
 It was about 5 o'clock in the afternoon of the 16th, when Mr. 
 Thurston and myself left Kapulena. Wishing to spend the Sabbath in 
 the populous village of Waipio, we travelled fast along the narrow 
 paths bordered with long grass, or through the well-cultivated plan- 
 tations of the natives. 
 
 The Sandwich Islanders have no idea of constructing their roads or 
 foot-path in a straight line. In many parts, where the country was 
 level and open, the paths from one village to another were not more 
 than a foot wide, and very crooked. We often had occasion to notice 
 this, but never passed over any so completely serpentine as those we 
 travelled this evening. 
 
 The sun had set when we reached the high cliff that formed the 
 southern boundary of Waipio. Steep rocks, not less than five hundred 
 feet high, rose immediately opposite. Viewed from the great eleva- 
 tion at which we stood, the charming valley, spread out beneath us 
 like a map, with its numerous inhabitants, cottages, plantations, fish- 
 ponds, and meandering streams, (on the surface of which the light 
 canoe was moving to and fro.') appeared in beautiful miniature. 
 
 WAIPIO DESCRIBED. 
 
 Makoa led the way down the steep cliffs. The descent was dif- 
 ficult, and it was quite dark before we reached the bottom. A party 
 of natives, returning from a fishing excursion, ferried us across the 
 stream that ran along near the place where we descended, and we 
 directed our steps towards the house of Haa, head man of the village. 
 
 He received us courteously, ordered a clean mat to be spread for us 
 to recline on, and water for us to drink; some of his attendants also 
 handed us a large wooden tobacco-pipe, which is usually passed round 
 when strangers arrive; this last compliment, however, we begged 
 leave to decline. 
 
 Makoa seated himself by the side of the chief, and gave him a brief 
 outline of our tour — our object — and the instructions given to the peo- 
 ple. In the mean time, fish was prepared for supper by a fire of sandal 
 wood, which, instead of filling the house with disagreeable smoke, 
 perfumed it with a fragrant odour. After family worship in the 
 native language, we retired to rest.
 
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 The next morning unveiled to view the extent and beauty of the 
 romantic valley. Its entrance from the sea, which was blocked up 
 with sand-hills, fifty or sixty feet high, appeared to be a mile or a 
 mile and a half wide. 
 
 The summits of the hills, which bordered the valley, seemed 600 feet 
 above the level of the sea. They were nearly perpendicular, yet they 
 were mostly clothed with grass, and low straggling shrubs were here 
 and there seen amidst the jutting rocks. 
 
 A number of winding paths led up their steep sides, and, in several 
 parts, limpid streams flowed, in beautiful cascades, from the top to 
 the bottom, forming a considerable stream, which, meandering along 
 the valley, found a passage through the sand-hills, and emptied itself 
 into the sea. 
 
 A CONTINUOUS AND POPULOUS GARDEN. 
 
 The bottom of the valley was one continued garden, cultivated 
 with taro, bananas, sugar-cane, and other productions of the islands, 
 all growing luxuriantly. Several large ponds were also seen in dif- 
 ferent directions, well stocked with excellent fish. 
 
 A number of small villages, containing from twenty to fifty houses 
 each, stood along the foot of the mountains, at unequal distances on 
 each side, and extended up the valley till projecting cliffs obstructed 
 the view. 
 
 Morning worship was attended by our host and his family, and 
 about half-past ten the people of the neighbourhood assembled in front 
 of the house. Mr. Thurston preached to them, and was encouraged 
 by the attention given. 
 
 In the afternoon he walked up the north side of the valley, and 
 preached to congregations of about 100 persons, in three different 
 villages. I proceeded about a mile and a half along the south side 
 of the valley, to the village of Napopo, containing forty-three houses, 
 and preached to the natives. After the service, the people com- 
 plained of their great ignorance, and wished they might be visited 
 again. 
 
 At five p. m. I returned, and addressed the people in the place 
 where Mr. Thurston had preached in the morning. About 300 were 
 present, and listened attentively. 
 
 DISCUSSIONS WITH A CHIEF. 
 
 The chief with whom we lodged made many inquiries respecting the 
 way of salvation through Jesus Christ. He also asked about the 
 change which had taken place in the Society Islands; and afterwards 
 observed, that Hawaii was a dark land, and would not soon attend to 
 its true interests. He and his family cheerfully united in the devo- 
 tional exercises of the day, and by his conversation manifested, for 
 an untutored native, an unusual degree of intelligence.
 
 269 
 
 In the evening, as we sat around the door, the voice of wailing and 
 lamentation broke upon the ear. On inquiry, it was found to proceed 
 from a neighbouring cottage, where a woman, who had been some 
 time ill, had just expired. This circumstance led to a conversation on 
 death and a future state, and the necessity of habitual preparedness 
 for the eventful change which awaits all mankind. 
 
 While we were talking, the moon arose, and shed her mild light 
 upon the valley; her beams were reflected by the rippling stream, and 
 the small lake beautified the scene. All was serene and still, save 
 the chirping insects in the grass. The echo of the cloth-mallet, which 
 had been heard through the day in different parts of the valley, had 
 now ceased. Though generally a pleasant sound, especially when 
 heard in a solitary valley, indicating the industry of the natives, it 
 had on this day, which was the Sabbath, called forth the most affec- 
 tionate solicitude for the interesting people of the place; and we 
 could not but desire the speedy arrival of that time, when the sacred 
 hours of the Sabbath should be employed in spiritual and devotional 
 exercises. That, however, is not to be expected in the present cir- 
 cumstances of the people, for 
 
 "The sound of the church-going bell 
 These valleys and rocks never heard: 
 Never sigh 'd at the sound of a knell. 
 Nor smiled when a Sabbath appear 'd." 
 
 And probably until this day their inhabitants had not been informed, 
 that "in six days they should labour and do all their work, and that 
 the seventh is the Sabbath of the Lord their God," which he requires 
 them to sanctify by sacred worship and holy rest. 
 
 MAKOA GIVES POINTERS ON HAOLE MEDICINE. 
 
 On the morning of the 18th, while some medicine was preparing, 
 Haa inquired of what kind it was, when Makoa, who was sitting by, 
 observed that it was very strong medicine; that if a native only 
 smelt it, his breath would be taken away: (he referred probably to 
 a bottle of hartshorn, of which he had once smelt.) "If we were 
 to be taken sick on a journey, we should rest a few days before we 
 thought of continuing it: but they are strange people, very unlike us; 
 for frequently, after being ill all night, they get up in the morning, 
 take medicine, and then walk all day as if nothing were the matter 
 with them." 
 
 HAWAIIAN METHODS OF INTERMENT. 
 
 We were desirous of witnessing the interment of the person who 
 died last night, but were disappointed; it was, as most of their fune- 
 rals are, performed in secret.
 
 270 
 
 A few particulars, relative to thoir mode of burying, we have been 
 able to gather from the people of this place and other parts of the 
 island. 
 
 The bones of the legs and arms, and sometimes the skull, of their 
 kings and principal chiefs, those ■who were supposed to have descended 
 from the gods, or were to be deified, were usually preserved, as already 
 noticed. The other parts of the body were burnt or buried, while these 
 bones were either bound up with cinet, wrapped in cloth, and de- 
 posited in temples for adoration, or distributed among the immediate 
 relatives, who, during their lives, always carried them wherever they 
 went. This was the case with the bones of Tamehameha; and it is 
 probable that some of his bones were brought by his son Rihoriho on 
 his recent visit to England, as they supposed that so long as the bones 
 of the deceased were revered, his spirit would accompany them, and 
 exercise a supernatural guardianship over them. 
 
 They did not wash the bodies of the dead, as was the practice with 
 some of the South Sea Islanders. 
 
 The bodies of priests, and chiefs of inferior rank, were laid out 
 straight, wrapped in many folds of native tapa, and buried in that 
 posture; the priests generally within the precincts of the temple in 
 which they had officiated. 
 
 DIFFERENT BURIAL METHODS. 
 
 A pile of stones, or a circle of high poles, surrounded their grave, 
 and marked the place of their interment. It was only the bodies of 
 priests, or persons of some importance, that were thus buried. 
 
 The common people committed their dead to the earth in a most 
 singular manner. After death, they raised the upper part of the body, 
 bent the face forwards to the knees, the hands were next put under 
 the hams, and passed up between the knees, when the head, hands, 
 and knees were bound together with cinet or cord. The body was 
 afterwards wrapped in a coarse mat, and buried the first or second 
 day after its decease. 
 
 They preferred natural graves whenever available, and selected for 
 this purpose caves in the sides of their steep rocks, or large subter- 
 ranean caverns. 
 
 SEPULCHRAL CAVES. 
 
 Sometimes the inhabitants of a village deposited their dead in one 
 large cavern, but in general each family had a distinct sepulchral cave. 
 
 Their artificial graves were either simple pits dug in the -earth, 
 or large enclosures. One of the latter, which we saw at Keahou, 
 was a space surrounded with high stone walls, appearing much like 
 an ancient heiau or temple. We proposed to several natives of the 
 village to accompany us on a visit to it, and give us an outline of its
 
 271 
 
 history; but they appeared startled at the thought, said it was a 
 wahi ino, (place evil,) filled with dead bodies, and objected so strongly 
 to our approaching it, that we deemed it inexpedient to make our in- 
 tended visit. 
 
 Occasionally they buried their dead in sequestered places, at a short 
 distance from their habitations, but frequently in their gardens, and 
 sometimes in their houses. Their graves were not deep, and the bodies 
 were usually placed in them in a sitting posture. 
 
 BURIALS ARE SECRET AND WITHOUT CEREMONY. 
 
 No prayer was offered at tne grave, except occasionally by the 
 inhabitants of Oahu. 
 
 All their interments are conducted without any ceremony, and are 
 usually managed with great secrecy. We have often been surprised at 
 this, and believe it arises from the superstitious dread the people en- 
 tertain respecting the places where dead bodies are deposited, which 
 they believe resorted to by the spirits of those buried there. 
 
 Like most ignorant and barbarous nations, they imagine that appari- 
 tions are frequently seen, and often injure those who come in their 
 way. 
 
 Their funerals take place in the night, to avoid observation; for 
 we have been told, that if the people were to see a party carrying a 
 dead body past their houses, they would abuse them, or even throw 
 stones at them, for not taking it some other way, supposing the spirit 
 would return to and fro to the former abode of the deceased by the 
 path along which the body had been borne to the place of interment. 
 
 BONES THROWN TO PELE AND THE SHARKS. 
 
 The worshippers of Pele threw a part of the bones of their dead 
 into the volcano, under the impression that the spirits of the deceased 
 would then be admitted to the society of the volcanic deities, and 
 that their influence would preserve the survivors from the ravages 
 of volcanic fire. 
 
 The fishermen sometimes wrapped their dead in red native cloth, 
 and threw them into the sea, to be devoured by the sharks. Under 
 the influence of a belief in the transmigration of souls, they sup- 
 posed the spirit of the departed would animate the shark by which 
 the body was devoured, and that the survivors would be spared by 
 those voracious monsters, in the event of their being overtaken by 
 any accident at sea. 
 
 The bodies of criminals who had broken tabu, after having been 
 slain to appease the anger of the v,od whose tabu, or prohibition, they 
 had broken, were buried within the precincts of the heiau.
 
 The bones of human sacrifices, after the flesh had rotted, were 
 piled up in different parts of the heiau in which they had been offered. 
 
 CHANGES IN BURIAL METHODS INTRODUCED BY MISSIONARIES. 
 
 Idolatry, since 1819, has been abolished, and all ceremonies con- 
 nected therewith have ceased; the other heathenish modes of burying 
 their dead are only observed by those who are uninstructcd, and are 
 not professed worshippers of the true God: those who are, inter their 
 dead in a manner more resembling the practice of Christians. 
 
 The corpse is usually laid in a coffin, which, previous to interment, 
 is borne to the place of worship, attended by the relatives in mourn- 
 ing habiliments, where a short service is performed; it is then carried 
 to the grave; after being deposited there, sometimes the spectators 
 are addressed by the misssionary, on other occasions a short prayer 
 only is offered, and, as the friends retire, the grave is filled up. 
 
 After breakfast, Mr. Thurston walked about five miles up the val- 
 ley, in order to estimate its population, and preach to the people. 
 The whole extent was well cultivated, and presented in every direc- 
 tion the most beautiful prospects. At one of the villages where he 
 stopped, about 100 people collected, to whom he preached the word 
 of salvation. 
 
 TALES OF HUMAN SACRIFICES. 
 
 I spent the morning in taking a drawing of the valley from the 
 sand-hills on the beach; and in examining some large heiaus in the 
 neighbourhood, in reference to which the natives taxed our credulity 
 by the legendary tales they related respecting the numbers of victims 
 which had on some occasions been offered. 
 
 In the days of Umi, they said, that king, after having been vic- 
 torious in battle over the kings of six of the divisions of Hawaii, was 
 sacrificing captives at Waipio, when the voice of Kuahiro, his god, 
 was heard from the clouds, requiring more men; the king kept sacri- 
 ficing, and the voice continued calling for more, till he had slain all his 
 men except one, whom, as he was a great favourite, he refused at first 
 to give up; but the god being urgent, he sacrificed him also, and the 
 priest and himself were all that remained. Upwards of eighty vic- 
 tims, they added, were offered at that time, in obedience to the audible 
 demands of the insatiate demon. 
 
 We have heard the same account at other places, of eighty victims 
 being slain at one time; and though perhaps the account may ex- 
 ceed the number actually immolated, the tradition serves to shew the 
 savage character of the gods, who, in the opinion of the natives, 
 could require such prodigal waste of human life.
 
 273 
 CITY OF REFUGE OF PAKARANA AT WAIPIO. 
 
 In the afternoon, we visited Pakarana, the Puhonua, or place of 
 refuge, for all this part of the island. It was a large enclosure, less 
 extensive, however, than that at Honaunau. The walls, though of 
 great antiquity, were of inferior height and dimensions. In the 
 midst of the enclosure, under a wide-spreading pandanus, was a small 
 house, called Ke Hale o Eiroa, (The House of Kiroa,) from the cir- 
 cumstance of its containing the bones of a king of that name, who was 
 the grandson of Umi, and, according to their traditions, reigned in 
 Hawaii about fifteen generations back. 
 
 We tried, but could not gain admittance to the pahu tabu, or sacred 
 enclosure. We also endeavoured to obtain a sight of the bones of 
 Eiroa, but the man who had charge of the house told us we must 
 offer a hog before we could be admitted; that Tamehameha, when- 
 ever he entered, had always sent offerings; that Eihoriho, since he 
 had become king, had done the same, and that no one could be ad- 
 mitted on other conditions. 
 
 Finding us unwilling to comply, yet anxious to see the bones, they 
 directed us to a rudely carved stone image, about six feet high, 
 standing at one corner of the wall, which they said was a tii, or image 
 of Eiroa. 
 
 We talked some time with the people around, who were principally 
 priests, on the folly of deifying and worshipping departed mortals. 
 The only answer, however, which they made was, Pela no i Hawaii 
 nei: So it is in Hawaii here. 
 
 SANDAL WOOD COLLECTING. 
 
 During the afternoon great numbers of men belonging to the valley 
 returned with loads of sandal wood, which they had been cutting in 
 the neighbouring mountains. The wood was much superior to that 
 which we had seen at Waiakea, being high coloured, strongly scented, 
 and sometimes in large pieces nearly a foot in diameter. 
 
 At five o'clock in the afternoon, about 300 of the natives of the 
 place assembled for public worship in front of the head man's house, 
 where they were addressed from Luke xiv. 23. The people were atten- 
 tive, and frequently interrupted the speaker by their exclamations. 
 
 Some said, "Jehovah is a good God: the living God is a good God; 
 gTeat is his love." 
 
 After the service, they sat talking on what they had heard, and 
 occasionally making inquiries, till the sun had set, and the moon had 
 nearly reached the mid-heaven. The chief, in particular, seemed much 
 interested, and, during the evening, he and several others expressed 
 themselves very desirous that a missionary should come and reside 
 with them, that they might be instructed fully in all these tilings. 
 
 18
 
 274 
 
 LARGE POPULATION AT WAIPIO. 
 
 According to the number of houses which we have seen, in all 265, 
 there are at least 1325 inhabitants in this sequestered valley, besides 
 populous villages on each side along the coast, which might be easily 
 visited. This circumstance, together with the fertility of the soil, 
 the abundance of water, the facility with which, at most seasons of 
 the year, supplies can be forwarded by water from Kairua or Towai- 
 hae, combine to render this an eligible spot for a missionary station; 
 but notwithstanding all these favourable circumstances, together with 
 the great desire of the people to be instructed in the important prin- 
 ciples of Christianity, it is much to be feared that, unless the funds 
 of the Parent Societies are increased, this inviting field, as well as 
 several others, must long remain destitute of moral culture. 
 
 WAIPIO CELEBRATED IN HAWAIIAN HISTORY. 
 
 The valley of Waipio is a place frequently celebrated in the songs 
 and traditions of Hawaii, as having been the abode of Akea and Miru, 
 the first kings of the island; of Umi and Riroa, kings who make a 
 prominent figure in their history. 
 
 It is also noted as the residence of Hoakau, king of this part of the 
 island, who appears to have been one of the Neros of the Sandwich 
 Islands, and whose memory is execrable among the people, on account 
 of his cruelties; and of whom it is reported, that if a man was said 
 to have a fine-looking head, he would send his servants to behead 
 the individual, and bring his head before him, when he would wantonly 
 cut, and otherwise disfigure it. He is said also to have ordered a 
 man's arm to be cut off, and brought to him, only because it was 
 tataued in a manner more handsome than his own. 
 
 DISCUSSION ON THE SOUL, RESURRECTION AND GENERAL JUDGMENT. 
 
 An interesting conversation was carried on this evening with respect 
 to the separate existence of the soul, the resurrection of the body, 
 and the general judgment at the last day. 
 
 The account of the raising of the widow's son, and the calling of 
 Lazarus from the grave after he had been dead four days, seemed 
 greatly to interest the natives. 
 
 We afterwards endeavoured to learn from them something re- 
 specting their opinions of a state of existence after death. But all 
 they said upon the subject was so contradictory, and mixed with 
 fiction, that it could not be discovered whether they had any definite 
 idea of the nature, or even the existence, of such a state.
 
 275 
 HAWAIIAN VIEWS CONCERNING LIFE AFTER DEATH. 
 
 Some said that all the souls of the departed went to the Po, (place 
 of night,) and were annihilated, or eaten by the gods there. 
 
 Others said, that some went to the regions of Akea and Mini. 
 
 Akea, they said, was the first king of Hawaii. At the expiration 
 of his reign, which terminated with his life at Waipio, the place 
 where we then were, he descended to a region far below, called Ka- 
 papahanaumoku, (the island-bearing rock, or stratum — compounded 
 of Ka papa, the rock, or stratum of rock; hanau, to bear or bring 
 forth; and moku, an island,) and founded a kingdom there. 
 
 Miru, who was his successor, and reigned in Hamakua, descended, 
 when he died, to Akea, and shared the government of the place with 
 him. Their land is a place of darkness; their food lizards and but- 
 terflies. There are several streams of water, of which they drink, 
 and some said there were large Kahiris, and wide-spreading kou- 
 trees, beneath which they reclined. (Though the Kahiris were usually 
 small, resembling the one represented in the plate of the native dance 
 at Kairua, they were sometimes upwards of twenty feet high; the 
 handle tweleve or fifteen feet long, beautifully covered with tortoise 
 shell and the ivory of whales' teeth; and the upper part formed with 
 red, yellow, or black feathers, fastened on a kind of wicker-work, 
 and resembling a cylinder twelve or thirteen inches in diameter. 
 These, however, are only used on state occasions, when they are car- 
 ried in processions instead of banners, and are fixed in the ground 
 near the tent or house in which 'the king or principal personages may 
 remain on such occasions.) But to most of the questions that were 
 asked, they said they could give no answer, as they knew nothing 
 about it; none had ever returned in open daylight, to tell them any 
 thing respecting it; and all they knew was from visions or dreams of 
 the priests. 
 
 MESSAGES FROM THE OTHER WORLD. 
 
 Sometimes, they said, when a recently liberated spirit arrived in 
 the dominions of Miru, the Pluto of Hawaii, he (viz. Miru) would 
 ask it what the kings above were doing, and what were the principal 
 pursuits of the people? and when he had answered, he was sent back 
 to the ao marama (state of day or light) with a message from Miru 
 to them, to iho nui mai ma nei, (to descend altogether to this place). 
 The person so sent would appear to the priests in a dream, deliver 
 his message, and then return to the lower regions. 
 
 This account accorded with the report of the late Tamehameha's 
 appearing to a man in the division of Komi, of which we had before 
 heard.
 
 276 
 
 A MESSAGE FROM KAMEHAMEHA AFTER DEATH. 
 
 A short time ago, a man in the southern part of Kona retired to 
 rest as usual. In the middle of the night, it is said, he was con- 
 ducted by a spirit to the lower regions, where he saw Tamehameha, 
 who asked him by whom Hawaii was" governed; and made several 
 inquiries respecting his son, Rihoriho, and his other children. Tame- 
 hameha then requested the man to return, deliver a certain message 
 to Kuakini, and also to Rihoriho the king, promising his favour if he 
 obeyed, but threatening severely, should he fail to do as he had 
 directed him. 
 
 The man returned to his house, related where he had been, but in- 
 stead of setting off immediately to Kairua, he remained to dress a hog, 
 and prepare food for the journey. The delay was severely punished, 
 for he died before the food, he had stopped to prepare, was cooked. 
 
 This story probably originated with those who were fearful lest 
 some of the institutions and principles of the late king should be dis- 
 regarded by his successors. It serves, however, to exhibit the popular 
 notions of the people, and the great influence Tamehameha had over 
 them. 
 
 HAWAIIAN AND SOCIETY ISLAND TRADITIONS OF HADES. 
 
 The account given this evening of the Hawaiian hades, afforded 
 another proof of the identity between the traditions of the Sandwich 
 and Society Islanders. For among the latter, the spirits of the Areois, 
 and priests of certain idols, were not eaten by the gods after the death 
 of their bodies, but went to Miru, (pronounced by both, Meru,) where 
 they lived much in the same way as the departed kings and heroes 
 of Hawaii were supposed to do; or joining hands, they formed a circle 
 with those that had gone before, and danced in one eternal round. 
 
 At daylight, on the 19th, numbers of the people collected around the 
 house where we had lodged, with whom we held morning worship. 
 
 Haa, the chief of the place, beneath whose friendly roof we had 
 been most hospitably entertained, then accompanied us to the beach, 
 where he had prepared a canoe to convey us to the next district. 
 Shortly after six a. m. we gave him the parting hand, with sincere 
 thanks for his kindness, after which we seated ourselves in the canoe, 
 and, in the midst of many expressions of good will, from those who 
 had come down to the beach to bid us farewell, we were safely 
 launched through the surf. 
 
 We left Waipio, deeply impressed with a sense of the kind treat- 
 ment we had received, and with feelings of sympathy for the mental 
 darkness and degradation of the interesting people by whom it was 
 inhabited. We could not but hope that they would soon enjoy the 
 constant light of Christian instruction, and participate in every Chris-
 
 277 
 
 tian privilege. A wide field of usefulness is here presented to a 
 Christian missionary, and we sincerely hope the directors of mis- 
 sionary operations will have means sufficient at their disposal to send 
 a missionary to this, and every other place where the people are so 
 anxious to be instructed. 
 
 DOWN THE COAST PROM WAIPIO. 
 
 The shore, along which the canoe was paddled, was extremely bold 
 and romantic. In many places the mountains rose almost perpendicu- 
 larly 500 or 600 feet above the sea. Their steep sides were nearly 
 destitute of verdure, as it was the dry season, yet, at unequal dis- 
 tances of a quarter or half a mile from each other, beautiful water- 
 falls and varied cascades flowed from the top into the ocean below. 
 The rocks seemed composed of various strata of vesicular lava, and 
 in several places the water was seen oozing out between the strata in 
 the face of the rocks some hundred feet below their summits. 
 
 Large stones and fragments of rocks in some places lay scattered 
 along the base of the precipice, just above the water's edge; but fre- 
 quently the mountain sides seemed to descend perpendicularly to a 
 great depth under water. 
 
 We saw several groups of natives passing along on the large stones 
 at the foot of the mountains, and whenever they came to a place 
 where the deep waters extended to the base of the precipice, they 
 all jumped into the sea, and swam perhaps fifty or sixty yards, till 
 they came to another ledge of rocks, upon which they would climb, 
 and pursue their journey. 
 
 SHIPPING SANDAL WOOD AT WAIMANU. 
 
 After proceeding pleasantly along for five or six miles, we arrived 
 at Waimanu a little before eight o'clock. 
 
 We found Arapai, the chief, and a number of his men, busy on the 
 beach shipping sandal-wood on board a sloop belonging to the gov- 
 ernor, then lying at anchor in a small bay off the mouth of the valley. 
 He received us kindly, and directed two of his men to conduct us to 
 his house, which was on the opposite side. 
 
 The valley, though not so spacious or cultivated as Waipio, was 
 equally verdant and picturesque; we could not but notice the unusual 
 beauty of its natural scenery. The glittering cascades and water- 
 falls, that rolled down the deep sides of the surrounding mountains, 
 seemed more numerous and beautiful than those at Waipio. 
 
 SURFING AT WAIMANU. 
 
 As we crossed the head of the bay, we saw a number of young per- 
 sons swimming in the surf, which rolled with some violence on the 
 rocky beach.
 
 278 
 
 To a spectator nothing can appear more daring, and sometimes 
 alarming, than to see a number of persons splashing about among 
 the waves of the sea as they dash on the shore; yet this is the most 
 popular and delightful of the native sports. 
 
 There are perhaps no people more aceustomed to the water than the 
 islanders of the Pacific; they seem almost a race of amphibious beings. 
 Familiar with the sea from their birth, they lose all dread of it, 
 and seem nearly as much at home in the water as on dry land. 
 
 CHILDREN SWIM AS SOON AS THEY WALK. 
 
 There are few children who are not taken into the sea by their 
 mothers the second or third day after their birth, and many who can 
 swim as soon as they can walk. 
 
 The heat of the climate is, no doubt, one source of the gratification 
 they find in this amusement, which is so universal, that it is scarcely 
 possible to pass along the shore where there are many habitations 
 near, and not see a number of children playing in the sea. 
 
 Here they remain for hours together, and yet I never knew of but 
 one child being drowned during the number of years I have resided 
 in the islands. 
 
 CHILDREN'S WATER GAMES. 
 
 They have a variety of games, and gambol as fearlessly in the 
 water as the children of a school do in their playground. 
 
 Sometimes they erect a stage eight or ten feet high on the edge of 
 some deep place, and lay a pole in an oblique direction over the edge 
 of it, perhaps twenty feet above the water; along this they pursue 
 each other to the outermost end, when they jump into the sea. 
 
 Throwing themselves from the lower yards, or bowsprit, of a ship, 
 is also a favourite sport, but the most general and frequent game is 
 swimming in the surf. The higher the sea and the larger the waves, 
 in their opinion the better the sport. 
 
 SURF BOARDING. 
 
 On these occasions they use a board, which they call papa he naru, 
 (wave sliding-board,) generally five or six feet long, and rather more 
 than a foot wide, sometimes flat, but more frequently slightly convex 
 on both sides. It is usually made of the wood of the erythrina, stained 
 quite black, and preserved with great care. After using, it is. placed 
 in the sun till perfectly dry, when it is rubbed over with cocoa-nut 
 oil, frequently wrapped in cloth, and suspended in some part of their 
 dwelling house. 
 
 Sometimes they choose a place where the deep water reaches to the 
 beach, but generally prefer a part where the rocks are ten or twenty
 
 279 
 
 feet under water, and extend to a distance from the shore, as the surf 
 breaks more violently over these. 
 
 When playing in these places, each individual takes his board, and, 
 pushing it before him, swims perhaps a quarter of a mile or more out 
 to sea. 
 
 They do not attempt to go over the billows which roll towards the 
 shore, but watch their approach, and dive under water, allowing the 
 billow to pass over their heads. 
 
 GOING IN ON THE SURF. 
 
 When they reach the outside of the rocks, where the waves first 
 break, they adjust themselves on one end of the board, lying flat on 
 their faces, and watch the approach of the largest billow; they then 
 poise themselves on its highest edge, and, paddling as it were with 
 their hands and feet, ride on the crest of the wave, in the midst of 
 the spray and foam, till within a yard or two of the rocks or the shore; 
 and when the observers would expect to see them dashed to pieces, 
 they steer with great address between the rocks, or slide off their 
 board in a moment, grasp it by the middle, and dive under water, 
 while the wave rolls on, and breaks among the rocks with a roaring 
 noise, the effect of which is greatly heightened by the shouts and 
 laughter of the natives in the water. 
 
 Those who are expert frequently change their position on the 
 board, sometimes sitting and sometimes standing erect in the midst 
 of the foam. 
 
 The greatest address is necessary in order to keep on the edge of the 
 wave: for if they get too forward, they are sure to be overturned; 
 and if they fall back, they are buried beneath the succeeding billow. 
 
 CANOE SURFING — WHOLE VILLAGES, INCLUDING CHIEFS, SURFING. 
 
 Occasionally they take a very light canoe; but this, though directed 
 in the same manner as the board, is much more difficult to manage. 
 
 Sometimes the greater part of the inhabitants of a village go out 
 to this sport, when the wind blows fresh towards the shore, and spend 
 the greater part of the day in the water. All ranks and ages appear 
 equally fond of it. 
 
 We have seen Karaimoku and Kakioeva, some of the highest chiefs 
 in the island, both between fifty and sixty years of age, and large 
 corpulent men, balancing themselves on their narrow board, or splash- 
 ing about in the foam, with as much satisfaction as youths of sixteen. 
 
 They frequently play at the mouth of a large river, where the strong 
 current running into the sea, and the rolling of the waves towards the 
 shore, produce a degree of agitation between the water of the river 
 and the sea, that would be fatal to an European, however expert
 
 280 
 
 he might bo; yet in this they delight: and when the king or queen, 
 or any high chiefs, are playing, none of the common people are 
 allowed to approach these places, lest they should spoil their sport. 
 
 KAUMUALII AN EXPERT SURFER. 
 
 The chiefs pride themselves much on excelling in some of the games 
 of their country; hence Taumuarii, the late king of Tauai, was 
 celebrated as the most expert swimmer in the surf, known in the 
 islands. 
 
 FEAR OF SHARKS. 
 
 The only circumstance that ever mars their pleasure in this diver- 
 sion is the approach of a shark. When this happens, though they 
 sometimes fly in every direction, they frequently unite, set up a loud 
 shout, and make so much splashing in the water, as to frighten him 
 away. Their fear of them, however, is very great; and after a party 
 return from this amusement, almost the first question they are asked 
 is, ""Were there any sharks?" 
 
 The fondness of the natives for the water must strike any person 
 visiting their islands; long before he goes on shore, he will see them 
 swimming around his ship; and few ships leave without being accom- 
 panied part of the way out of the harbour by the natives, sporting in 
 the water; but to see fifty or a hundred persons riding on an immense 
 billow, half immersed in spray and foam, for a distance of several 
 hundred yards together, is one of the most novel and interesting 
 sports a foreigner can witness in the islands. 
 
 INSPECTING WAIMANU. 
 
 When we arrived at the house of Arapai, we were welcomed by 
 his wife and several members of his family. 
 
 Mr. Thurston walked up to the head of the valley, to number the 
 houses and speak to the people. At one of the villages through which 
 he passed, about 150 of the inhabitants assembled, to whom he 
 preached. The people were interested, and several of them followed 
 him down to the chief's house near the beach. Shortly after his re- 
 turn, the chief came home, and some breakfast of salt fish and taro 
 was provided, of which we partook with the family. 
 
 THE FURNISHINGS OF CHIEF ALAPAI'S HOUSE. 
 
 Arapai is evidently a chief of some importance. We saw several 
 large double canoes in his out-houses. The number of his domestics 
 was greater than usual; his house was large, well built, and stocked 
 with a number of useful articles, among which we noticed some large
 
 281 
 
 and handsomely stained calabashes, marked with a variety of devices. 
 
 The calabash is a large kind of gourd, sometimes capable of holding 
 four or five gallons. It is used to contain water and other fluids, 
 by the natives of all the islands in the South Sea; but the art of 
 staining it is peculiar to the Sandwich Islanders, and is another proof 
 of their superior powers of invention and ingenuity. 
 
 "When the calabash has grown to its full size, they empty it in the 
 usual manner, by placing it in the sun till the inside is decayed, 
 and may be shaken out. The shell, which remains enth-e, except the 
 small perforation made at the stalk for the purpose of discharging 
 its contents, and serving as a mouth to the vessel, is, when the cala- 
 bash is large, sometimes half an inch thick. 
 
 DECORATION OF CALABASHES. 
 
 In order to stain it, they mix several bruised herbs, principally the 
 stalks and leaves of the arum, and a quantity of dark ferruginous 
 earth, with water, and fill the vessel with it. They then draw with a 
 piece of hard wood or stone on the outside of the calabash, what- 
 ever figures they wish to ornament it with. These are various, being 
 either rhomboids, stars, circles, or wave and straight lines, in separate 
 sections, or crossing each other at right angles, generally marked 
 with a great degree of accuracy and taste. 
 
 After the colouring matter has remained three or four days in the 
 calabashes, they are put into a native oven and baked. When 
 they are taken out, all the parts previously marked appear beauti- 
 fully brown or black, while those places, where the outer skin had 
 not been broken, retain their natural bright yellow colour. The 
 dye is now emptied out, and the calabash dried in the sun; the 
 whole of the outside appears perfectly smooth and shining, while the 
 colours imparted by the above process remain indelible. 
 
 USES OF THE CANDLE NUT. 
 
 Large quantities of kukui, or candle nuts, hung in long strings in 
 different parts of Arapai's dwelling. These are the fruit of the 
 aleurites triloba; a tree which is abundant in the mountains, and 
 highly serviceable to the natives. 
 
 It furnishes a gum, which they use in preparing varnish for their 
 tapa, or native cloth. 
 
 The inner bark produces a permanent dark-red dye, but the 
 nuts are the most valuable part; they are heart-shaped, about the 
 size of a walnut, and are produced in abundance. 
 
 Sometimes the natives burn them to charcoal, which they pulverize, 
 and use in tatauing their skin, painting their canoes, surf-boards, idols, 
 or drums; but they are generally used as a substitute for candles
 
 282 
 
 or lamps. When designed for this purpose, they are slightly baked 
 in a native oven, after which the shell, which is exceedingly hard, 
 is taken off, and a hole perforated in the kernel, through which a 
 rush is passed, and they are hung up for use, as we saw them at this 
 place. 
 
 When employed for fishing by torch-light, four or five strings are 
 enclosed in the leaves of the pandanus, which not only keeps them 
 together, but renders the light more brilliant. 
 
 When they use them in their houses, ten or twelve are strung on 
 the thin stalk of the cocoa-nut leaf, and look like a number of peeled 
 chestnuts on a long skewer. 
 
 The person who has charge of them lights a nut at one end of the 
 stick, and holds it up, till the oil it contains is consumed, when the 
 flame kindles on the one beneath it, and he breaks off the extinct 
 nut with a short piece of wood, which serves as a pair of snuffers. 
 
 Each nut will burn two or three minutes, and, if attended, give 
 a tolerable light. We have often had occasion to notice, with ad- 
 miration, the merciful and abundant provision which the God of 
 nature has made for the comfort of those insulated people, which is 
 strikingly manifested by the spontaneous growth of this valuable 
 tree in all the islands; a great convenience is hereby secured, with 
 no other trouble than picking up the nuts from under the trees. 
 
 The tree is large, the leaves and wood remarkably white; and 
 though the latter is not used by the Sandwich Islanders, except oc- 
 casionally in making fences, small canoes are frequently made of it 
 by the Society Islanders. 
 
 In addition to the above purposes, the nuts are often baked or 
 roasted as an article of food, which the natives eat with salt. 
 
 The nut contains a large portion of oil, which, possessing the prop- 
 erty of drying, is useful in painting; and for this purpose quantities 
 are carried by the Eussian vessels to their settlements on the north- 
 west coast of America. 
 
 A FAREWELL SERVICE AT WAIMANU. 
 
 Before we prepared for our departure, we requested that the people 
 of the place might assemble to hear the word which we had to speak 
 to them. About 200 collected, and were addressed from John vi. 40. 
 They gave good attention, particularly the wife of Arapai, who was 
 afflicted with an affection of the spine, which prevented her walking 
 without support. She called us to her after the service, and told 
 us she had incurred the displeasure of the gods by eating a fish that 
 was tabu, or sacred, and that the disease which rendered her a 
 cripple was her punishment. She said she had felt great pleasure 
 on hearing the invitation of Jesus Christ, desired to go to him and 
 obey his word, inquiring at the same time very earnestly, if we
 
 283 
 
 thought he could and would save her. We told her that eating the 
 tabu fish was not the cause of her suffering, and encouraged her to 
 repair, by faith, to Him who was able and willing to heal her body 
 if he saw fit, and who would assuredly save her soul, if she applied 
 in a right manner; repeating several of the most precious promises 
 of our blessed Lord to those that are weary and heavy laden with 
 sin, and desire salvation through his mercy. 
 
 Numbers of the people crowded round us when the service was 
 ended, and with earnestness besought us to sit down and repeat 
 several of the truths they had heard respecting the name and at- 
 tributes of Jehovah, his law, and the name and offices of Jesus Christ 
 the only Saviour. They also requested to be more particularly in- 
 formed in what manner they should pray to him, and how they should 
 know when the Sabbath-day came. 
 
 We told them to go to Jehovah in prayer, as a child went to its 
 parents, assuring them they would find him more ready to attend to 
 them, than the fondest earthly parent was to listen to his most be- 
 loved child. This did not satisfy them; we, therefore, after observing 
 that God did not regard so much the words, as the desires of the 
 heart, mentioned several expressions of praise, confession, and peti- 
 tion — which the natives repeated after us till they could recite them 
 correctly. 
 
 The chief then sent for a youth, about sixteen years of age, of 
 whom he seemed very fond, and after he and his wife had requested 
 him to attend very particularly to what he should hear, they requested 
 us to repeat to him what we had told them. We did so; the youth 
 evidently tried to treasure up the words in his memory; and when 
 he could repeat correctly what had been told him, the parents ap- 
 peared highly pleased. 
 
 Indeed, the greater part of the people seemed to regard the tidings 
 of ora roa ia Jesu, (endless life by Jesus,) as the most joyful news 
 they had ever heard; "breaking upon them," to use the expressions 
 of the natives on another occasion, "like light in the morning." 
 
 The chief's wife in particular exclaimed aloud, "Will my spirit 
 never die? and can this poor weak body live again?" 
 
 TRIP FROM WAIMAXU TO HONOKANE. 
 
 When we departed, she rose up, and, by the help of two sticks, 
 walked down to the beach with us. Here we took an affectionate 
 leave, and then stepped into a canoe, which Arapai had provided to 
 convey us as far as Honokane, the first village in the division of 
 Kohala. 
 
 As the canoe pushed off from the shore, we again bade them Care- 
 well. When we saw the interesting group standing on the beach, we 
 could not but feel the must lively concern fur their welfare, and
 
 284 
 
 involuntarily besought the great Redeemer, that his holy Spirit might 
 be poured out upon them, that the seed sown among them might take 
 root in their hearts, and produce an abundant harvest to his praise. 
 
 FORMATION OP LAUPAHOEHOE NO. 2. 
 
 After leaving Waimanu, we passed by Laupahoehoe, a second village 
 of that name on this part of the coast, where, according to the ac- 
 counts of the natives, about eight or nine months before, an im- 
 mense mass of rocks had suddenly fallen down. The mountain that 
 remained appeared nearly 600 feet high. The face next the sea was 
 perpendicular, and as smooth as a compact piece of masonry. The 
 rock appeared volcanic, and the different strata of highly vesicular 
 lava were very distinct. In several places we saw the water oozing 
 from the face of the rock 200 or 300 feet from the summit. 
 
 The mass that had fallen lay in ruins at the base, where it had 
 formed two considerable hills, filled up a large fish-pond and part of 
 the sea, presenting altogether a scene of wide-spread desolation. 
 
 The original surface of the ground appeared to have been broken 
 by an earthquake, as some parts were rent by deep chasms, others 
 sunk down six or twelve feet lower than the rest. The shrubs and 
 grass were growing luxuriantly on the upper or original, and lower 
 or fallen surface, while the perpendicular space between them in- 
 dicated that the latter had recently sunk down from the former. 
 
 Wrecks of houses were seen in several places, some partly buried by 
 the ruins, others standing just on the edge of the huge rocks that 
 had fallen from above. Several houses were standing in the neigh- 
 bourhood, but all seemed deserted. 
 
 The natives, say that in the evening when the accident took place, 
 a mist or fog was seen to envelop the summits of the precipice, and 
 that after the sun had set, a luminous appearance, like a lambent 
 flame, was observed issuing from and playing about the top, which 
 made them think it was a forerunner of Pele, or volcanic fire. A 
 priest of Pele and his family, residing in one of the villages below, 
 immediately offered his prayer to the goddess, and told the inhabitants 
 that no harm would befall them. 
 
 About ten o'clock at night, however, the whole side of the moun- 
 tain, for nearly half a mile in extent along the shore, fell down with 
 a horrid crash. 
 
 Part of two small villages were destroyed, and several of the in- 
 habitants killed, but the natives did not agree as to the numbers; 
 some said twenty were killed, others only eighteen. 
 
 The people with whom we talked on the spot, and at other places 
 subsequently, could not recollect having heard the natives who es- 
 caped say any thing about an earthquake at the time.
 
 285 
 TRAILS ALONG KOHALA MOUNTAIN BLUFFS. 
 
 We did not land at this place, but passed close to the shore, and 
 continued to sail along at the base of steep mountains, 500 or 600 
 feet high; and although nearly perpendicular, they were intersected 
 here and there by winding paths, which we at first thought could be 
 travelled only by goats, but up which we afterwards saw one or two 
 groups of travellers pursuing their steep and rugged way. 
 
 About noon we passed Honokea, a narrow valley which separates 
 the divisions of Hamakua and Kohala, and shortly after reached 
 Honokane, the second village in the latter. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF HAMAKUA DISTRICT. 
 
 The division of Hamakua, on the N. E. side of the island, is, during 
 the greater part of the year, singularly romantic in its appearance, 
 particularly as seen from a vessel four or five miles out at sea. 
 
 The coast is bold and steep, and the cliffs, from three to five hun- 
 dred feet high, partially covered with shrubs and herbage, inter- 
 sected by numerous deep ravines and valleys, frequently in a high 
 state of cultivation, while the whole coast is ornamented with water- 
 falls and cascades of every description. I once beheld three-and- 
 twenty at one time from a ship's deck, some rolling in one continued 
 stream from the summit of the cliffs to the sea, others foaming and 
 winding among the ledges of rock that arrested their progress, spark- 
 ling among the verdant shrubs that fringed their borders, and alto- 
 gether presenting a most delightful spectacle. 
 
 EXPERIENCES AT HONOKANE. 
 
 We landed at Honokane, and went through the village to the house 
 of Ihikaina, chief woman of the place, and sister to Arapai, the chief 
 of Waimanu, from which this district is distant about twenty miles. 
 Ihikaina received us kindly, and for our refreshment provided a duck, 
 some vegetables, and a small quantity of excellent goat's milk, large 
 flocks of which are reared by some of the natives for the supply of 
 ships touching at the islands for refreshments. 
 
 The valley contained fifty houses. A number of the people collected 
 round the door of the house, and listened to a short address. 
 
 GREAT LAND SLIDE NEAR POLOLU. 
 
 About 4 p. m. we left Honokane, and passed on to Pololu. On 
 our way we walked over a long tract of fragments of rocks, occa- 
 sioned by the falling down of a side of the mountain, which took 
 place at the same time that the mass of rocks tell at Laupahoehoe, 
 which we had passed in the forenoon.
 
 It was impossible, without considerable emotion, to walk over these 
 rocks; some of them were broken in small pieces, others in blocks of 
 several tons weight, each lying exactly as it had fallen, the fractures 
 fresh, and the surface hardly discoloured, while the steep side of the 
 mountain from which they had fallen looked as smooth and even as if 
 the mass below had been separated from it only a few minutes before. 
 
 In some places between Honokane and Pololu, we had to walk in 
 the sea, where the water was up to the knees, but by watching the 
 surf we passed by without much inconvenience. 
 
 POLOLU DESCRIBED. 
 
 Pololu is a pleasant village, situated in a small cultivated valley, 
 having a fine stream of water flowing down its centre, while lofty 
 mountains rise on either side. 
 
 The houses stand principally on the beach, but as we did not see 
 many of the inhabitants, we passed on, ascended the steep mountain 
 on the north side, and kept on our way. The country was fertile, 
 and seemed populous, though the houses were scattered, and more 
 than three or four seldom appeared together. The streams of water 
 were frequent, and a large quantity of ground was cultivated on 
 their banks, and in the vicinity. 
 
 About sun-set we passed the residence of Mr. Parker, an Amer- 
 ican, who has resided a number of years on the island, and cultivated 
 a considerable tract of ground. As he was in the mountains shoot- 
 ing wild cattle for the king and Karaimoku, we did not stop at his 
 farm. During our journey this day, we passed by 458 houses; but 
 as we travelled part of the way six or eight miles from the shore, 
 in order to avoid the frequent and deep ravines, it is probable there 
 were several villages which we did not see. 
 
 HOSPITABLE CUSTOMS OF THE HAWAIIANS. 
 
 About seven in the evening we reached Halaua, the residence of 
 Miomioi, a friend and favourite of the late king Tamehameha. He 
 gave us a hearty welcome, with the accustomed courtesy of a Ha- 
 waiian chief, saying, "Our house is large, and there are plenty of 
 sleeping mats for us." 
 
 The hospitality of the chiefs, both of the Society and Sandwich 
 Islands, is always accompanied with a courtesy of behaviour pecu- 
 liarly gratifying to those who are their guests, and indicating a 
 degree of refinement seldom witnessed among uncivilized nations. 
 
 The usual salutation is Aroha (attachment,) or Aroha nui (at- 
 tachment great;) and the customary invitation to partake of some 
 refreshment is, "The food (a kakou) belonging to you and us is 
 ready; let us eat together"; always using the pronoun kakou, or
 
 287 
 
 kaua, which includes the person addressed, as well as the speaker. 
 
 On entering a chief's house, should we remark, Tour's is a strong 
 or convenient house, he would answer, "It is a good house for (or 
 belonging to) you and me." 
 
 If, on entering a house, or examining a fine canoe or piece of 
 cloth, we should ask who it belongs to, another person would tell 
 us the possessor's name; but if we happened to inquire of the owner 
 himself, he would invariably answer, "It is yours and mine." The 
 same desire to please is manifested in a variety of ways. 
 
 The manner in which they frequently ask a favour of each other is 
 singular, usually prefacing it with, "I rea oe, " If pleasing to you. 
 Hence we often have a message or note to the following effect: "If 
 pleasing to you, I should like a sheet of writing paper or a pen; 
 but if it would not give you pleasure to send it, I do not wish it." 
 
 ENTERTAINED AT HALAWA. 
 
 Soon after we had entered his house, a salt flying-fish was broiled 
 for supper. A large copper boiler was also brought out, and tea was 
 made with some dried mint, which, he said, he had procured many 
 months ago from ships at Towaihae. 
 
 He supped at the same time, but, instead of drinking tea, took a 
 large cocoanut shell full of ava. If an opinion of its taste might be 
 formed by the distortion of his countenance after taking it, it must 
 be a most nauseous dose. There seemed to be about half a pint of it 
 in the cup; its colour was like thick dirty calcareous water. 
 
 As he took it, a man stood by his side with a calabash of fresh 
 water, and the moment he had swallowed the intoxicating dose, he 
 seized the calabash, and drank a hearty draught of water, to remove 
 the unpleasant taste and burning effect of the ava. 
 
 USE OF AWA SUBSTITUTED BY LIQUOR. 
 
 The ava has been used for the purpose of inebriation by most of 
 the South Sea Islanders, and is prepared from the roots and stalks of 
 a species of pepper plant, the piper methysticum of Forster, which is 
 cultivated for this purpose in many of the islands, and being a plant 
 of slow growth, was frequently tabued from the common people. 
 
 The water in which the ava had been macerated, was the only in- 
 toxicating liquor with which the natives were acquainted before their 
 intercourse with foreigners, and was, comparatively speaking, but 
 little used, and sometimes only medicinally, to cure cutaneous erup- 
 tions and prevent corpulency. 
 
 But since they have been so much visited by shipping, the case Lfl 
 very different. They have been taught the art of distillation; and 
 foreign spirits in some {daces are so easily obtained, that inebriety,
 
 288 
 
 with all its demoralization, and attendant misery, is ten times more 
 prevalent than formerly. This is a circumstance deeply to be de- 
 plored, especially when we recollect, the immediate cause of its 
 prevalence. 
 
 CHIEF'S HOUSE DESCRIBED. 
 
 The chief's house was large, and one end of it was raised, by 
 leaves and mats, about a foot higher than the rest of the floor, and 
 partially screened from the other parts of the house. This was his 
 own sleeping place, but he ordered a new mat to be spread, and 
 obligingly requested us to occupy it. We did so, and enjoyed a com- 
 fortable night's rest. 
 
 After an early breakfast with Miomioi and his family, I embraced 
 the opportunity of addressing his people on the subject of religion, 
 before they separated to pursue their various avocations. About 
 fifty, were present and listened with silent attention. 
 
 MIOMIOI ONE OF KAMEHAMEHA'S FIGHTING MEN. 
 
 Miomioi, though not so tall and stout in person as many of the 
 chiefs, appeared a remarkably active man, and soon convinced us he 
 had been accustomed to delight in war. His military skill had prob- 
 ably recommended him to the notice and friendship of Tamehameha, 
 and had secured for him the occupancy of the district of Halaua, 
 the original patrimony of that prince. 
 
 Every thing in his house seemed to be preserved with care, but 
 particularly his implements of war. Spears, nearly twenty feet long, 
 and highly polished, were suspended in several places, which he was 
 very careful to shew us; remarking, that Tamehameha always re- 
 quired every man to keep his weapons in order, so as to be ready for 
 war at the shortest notice, and shewing, at the same time, an evident 
 satisfaction at the degree of care with which his own were preserved. 
 
 Considering his natural disposition, the circumstances and principles 
 under which he had been brought up, his total ignorance of the 
 gospel of peace, and the influence of a superstition which gave greater 
 importance to war than any other human pursuit, we did not censure 
 his complacency in exhibiting to us these instruments of death, but 
 it was very affecting to think of numerous bodies of men meeting to- 
 gether with an intention to murder each other. — And we may cherish 
 the hope that the principles of Christianity, when embraced by the 
 Hawaiians, will produce that cultivation of peace, and that aversion 
 to war, which so happily prevail among the Society Islanders, and 
 of which, since their reception of the gospel, they have given so many 
 illustrations. 
 
 KAMEHAMEHA'S HOME. 
 
 Between seven and eight, Miomioi, dressed in a blue jacket and 
 trowsers, shoes and stockings, and a sailor's red cap on his head,
 
 289 
 
 conducted us down to the village on the sea-shore, where he pointed 
 out to us several places remarkable by their connexion with the 
 early history of Tamehameha. 
 
 Halaua is a large district on the north-east coast of the island, 
 and, if not the birth-place of Tamehameha, was the land which he 
 inherited from his parents, and, with the exception of a small district 
 in the division of Kona, the only land he possessed in Hawaii prior 
 to the death of Taraiopu, and the celebrated battle of Keei, which 
 took place shortly afterwards. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF KAMEHAMEHA. 
 
 Tamehameha seems to have been early distinguished by enterprise, 
 energy, decision of character, and unwearied perseverance in the ac- 
 complishment of his objects. Added to these, he possessed a vigorous 
 constitution, and an unrivalled acquaintance with all the warlike 
 games and athletic exercises of his country. To these qualities of 
 mind and body he was probably indebted for the extensive power and 
 protracted dominion which he exercised over the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 In early life he associated with himself a number of youthful 
 chiefs of his own age and disposition, into whom he had the happy 
 art of instilling, on all occasions, his own spirit, and inspiring them 
 with his own resolution; by these means he most effectually secured 
 their attachment and co-operation. 
 
 ENGINEERING WORK BY KAMBHAMEHA. 
 
 Great undertakings appear to have been his delight, and achieve- 
 ments deemed by others impracticable were those which he regarded 
 as most suitable exercises of his prowess. 
 
 Miomioi led the way to a spot, where, in a small bay, the original 
 coast had been a perpendicular pile of rocks at least 100 feet high. 
 Here Tamehameha and his companions, by digging through the rocks, 
 had made a good roail, with a regular and gradual descent from the 
 high ground to the sea, up and down which their fishing canoes could 
 be easily drawn. 
 
 At another place, he had endeavoured to procure water by digging 
 through the rocks, but after forcing his way through several strata, 
 the lava was so hard that he was obliged to give up the undertaking. 
 Probably he had no powder with which to blast the rocks, and not 
 the best tools for working through them. 
 
 REMINISCENCES OF KAMEHAMEHA. 
 
 A wide tract of country in tin* neighbourhood was divided into 
 fields of considerable size, containing several acres each, which he 
 used to keep in good order, and well stocked with potatoes and other 
 
 19
 
 290 
 
 vegetables. One of these was called by his name. He was accus- 
 tomed to cultivate it with his own hands. There were several others, 
 called by the names of his principal friends or companions, which, 
 following his example, they used to cultivate themselves; the others 
 were cultivated by their dependants. 
 
 As the chief walked through the village, he pointed out the houses 
 in which Taniehameha formerly resided, and several groves of noni 
 trees, the morinda citrifolia, that he had planted, as Miomioi re- 
 marked, before his beard was grown. 
 
 Tameharoeha was undoubtedly a prince possessing shrewdness and 
 great strength of character. During his reign, the knowledge of the 
 people was much enlarged, and their comforts in some respects in- 
 creased; their acquisition of iron tools facilitated many of their 
 labours; the introduction of fire-arms changed their mode of war- 
 fare; and in many cases, cloth of European manufacture was sub- 
 stituted for that made of native bark. But these improvements 
 appear to be rather the result of their intercourse with foreigners, 
 than of any measures of their sovereign; though the encouragement 
 he gave to all foreigners visiting the islands, was, no doubt, ad- 
 vantageous in these respects. 
 
 He has been called the Alfred of the Hawaiians; but he appears 
 rather to have been their Alexander, ambition and a desire of con- 
 quest having been his ruling passions during the greater part of his 
 life, though towards its close avarice superseded them. 
 
 It has been stated that he projected an invasion of the Society 
 Islands, but the report, from many conversations on the subject with 
 the natives, appears destitute of all foundation. 
 
 KAMEHAMEHA'S HEIAU AT KOHALA. 
 
 Miomioi also pointed out the family heiau of Tamehameha, of 
 which Tairi was the god, and the heiau was called Hare o Tairi, 
 House of Tairi. It was an insignificant pile of stones, on a jutting 
 point of volcanic rocks. Miomioi, however, said that the tabu was 
 very strictly observed, and the punishments incurred by breaking it 
 invariably inflicted on the transgressor; adding, at the same time, 
 that Tamehameha always supposed his success, in every enterprise, 
 to be owing to the strict attention he paid to the service and re- 
 quirements of his god. Many persons, he said, had been burnt on 
 the adjoining hills, for having broken the tabu enjoined by the 
 priests of Tairi. 
 
 The Tabu formed an important and essential part of their cruel 
 system of idolatry, and was one of the strongest means of its 
 support.
 
 291 
 
 PRACTICE OF THE TABU IN POLYNESIA. 
 
 In most of the Polynesian dialects, the usual meaning of the word 
 tabu is, sacred. It does not, however, imply any moral quality, but 
 expresses a connexion with the gods, or a separation from ordinary 
 purposes, and exclusive appropriation to persons or things considered 
 sacred. 
 
 Those chiefs who trace their genealogy to the gods, are called 
 arii tabu, chiefs sacred, from their supposed connexion with the 
 gods; and a temple is called a wahi tabu, place sacred, because 
 devoted exclusively to the abode and worship of the gods. 
 
 It is a distinct word from rahui, to prohibit, as the ohelo berries 
 at Kirauea were said to be prohibited, being tabu na Pele, sacred 
 for Pele, and is opposed to the word noa, which means general or 
 common. Hence the system, which rjrohibited females from eating 
 with the men, and from eating, except on special occasions, any 
 fruits or animals ever offered in sacrifice to the gods, while it 
 allowed the men to partake of them, was called the Ai tabu, 
 eating sacred, but the present state of things is called the Ai moa, 
 eating generally, or having food in common. 
 
 "KAUKAU" NOT A HAWAIIAN WORD. 
 
 This appears to be the legitimate meaning of the word tabu, 
 though the natives, when talking with foreigners, use it more ex- 
 tensively, applying it to every thing prohibited or improper. This, 
 however, is only to accommodate the latter, as they use kaukau 
 (a word of Chinese origin) instead of the native word for eat, and 
 pikaninny, for small, supposing they are thereby better understood. 
 
 The tabu separating whatever it was applied to from common 
 use, and devoting it to the above purposes, was one of the most 
 remarkable institutions among the South Sea Islanders; and though 
 it prevailed, with slight variations, in the different groups of the 
 Pacific, it has not been met with in any other part of the world. 
 
 TABU WAS PRIMARILY A RELIGIOUS CEREMONY. 
 
 Although employed for civil as well as sacred purposes, the tabu 
 was entirely a religious ceremony, and could be imposed only by the 
 priests. 
 
 A religious motive was always assigned for laying it on, though it 
 was often done at the instance of the civil authorities; and persons 
 called kiaimoku, (island keepers,) a kind of police officers, were 
 always appointed by the king to see that the tabu was strictly 
 observed. 
 
 The antiquity of the tabu was equal to the other branches of 
 that superstition of which it formed so component a part, und its
 
 292 
 
 application was both general and particular, occasional and perma- 
 nent. 
 
 WHAT TABU APPLIED TO. 
 
 The idols, temples, persons, and names of the king, and members 
 of the reigning family; the persons of the priests; canoes belonging 
 to the gods; houses, clothes, and mats of the king and priests; and 
 the heads of men who were the devotees of any particular idol, — 
 were always tabu, or sacred. 
 
 The flesh of hogs, fowls, turtle, and several other kinds of fish, 
 cocoa-nuts, and almost every thing offered in sacrifice, were tabu 
 to the use of the gods and the men; hence the women were, exeept 
 in cases of particular indulgence, restricted from using them. 
 
 Particular places, as those frequented by the king for bathing, 
 were also rendered permanently tabu. 
 
 Sometimes an island or a district was tabued, when no canoe or 
 person was allowed to approach it. Particular fruits, animals, and 
 the fish of certain places, were occasionally tabu for several montha 
 from both men and women. 
 
 SEASONS AND TERMS OF TABU. 
 
 The seasons generally kept tabu were, on the approach of some 
 great religious ceremony; immediately before going to war; and 
 during the sickness of chiefs. Their duration was various, and much 
 longer in ancient than modern times. 
 
 Tradition states, that in the days of Umi there was a tabu kept 
 thirty years, during which the men were not allowed to trim their 
 beards, &c. Subsequently there was one kept five years. 
 
 Before the reign of Tamehameha, forty days was the usual period; 
 during it, ten or five days, and some-only times one day. 
 The tabu seasons were either common or direct. 
 
 COMMON AND STRICT TABUS. 
 
 During a common tabu, the men were only required to abstain 
 from their usual avocations, and attend at the heiau when the prayers 
 were offered every morning and evening. But during the season of 
 strict tabu, every fire and light on the island or district must be 
 extinguished; no canoe must be launched on the water, no person 
 must bathe; and, except those whose attendance was required at 
 the temple, no individual must be seen out of doors; no dog must 
 bark, no pig must grunt, no cock must crow, — or the tabu would be 
 broken, and fail to accomplish the object designed.
 
 293 
 DOGS, PIGS AND CHICKENS KEPT THE TABU. 
 
 On these occasions they tied up the mouths of the dogs and pigs, 
 and put the fowls under a calabash, or fastened a piece of cloth over 
 their eyes. 
 
 All the common people prostrated themselves, with their faces 
 touching the ground, before the sacred chiefs, when they walked out, 
 particularly during tabu; and neither the king nor the priests were 
 allowed to touch any thing, — even their food was put into their 
 mouths by another person. 
 
 The tabu was imposed either by proclamation, when the crier or 
 herald of the priests went round, generally in the evening, requiring 
 every light to be extinguished, the path by the sea to be left for the 
 king, the paths inland to be left for the gods, &e. The people, 
 however, were generally prepared, having had previous warning; 
 though this was not always the case. 
 
 HOW THE TABU WAS MADE KNOWN. 
 
 Sometimes it was laid on by fixing certain marks called unu unu, 
 the purport of which was well understood, on the places or things 
 tabued. 
 
 When the fish of a certain part are tabued, a small pole is fixed 
 in the rocks on the coast, in the centre of the place, to which is tied 
 a bunch of bamboo leaves, or a piece of white cloth. 
 
 A cocoa-nut leaf is tied to the stem of a tree, when the fruit is 
 tabued. 
 
 The hogs which were tabu, having been devoted to the gods, had 
 a piece of cinet woven through a perforation in one of their ears. 
 
 DEATH PENALTY FOR BREAKING TABU. 
 
 The prohibitions and requisitions of the tabu were strictly en- 
 forced, and every breach of them punished with death, unless the 
 delinquents had some very powerful friends who were either priests 
 or chiefs. They were generally offered in sacrifice, strangled, or 
 despatched with a club or a stone within the precincts of the heiau, 
 or they were burnt, as stated by Miomioi. 
 
 An institution so universal in its influence, and so inflexible in its 
 demands, contributed very materially to the bondage and oppression 
 of the natives in general. 
 
 The king, sacred chiefs, and priests, appear to have been the only 
 persons to whom its application was easy; the great mass of the 
 people were at no period of their existence exempt from its in- 
 fluence, and no circumstance in life could excuse their obedience to 
 its demands.
 
 294 
 SEVERITY OP TABU RELATING TO WOMEN. 
 
 The females in particular felt all its humiliating and degrading 
 force. From its birth, the child, if a female, was not allowed to 
 be fed with a particle of food that had been kept in the father's 
 dish, or cooked at his fire; and the little boy, after being weaned, 
 was fed with his father's food, and, as soon as he was able, sat 
 down to meals with his father, while his mother was not only 
 obliged to take her's in an outhouse, but was interdicted from 
 tasting the kind of which he ate. 
 
 It is not surprising that the abolition of the tabu, effecting for 
 them an emancipation so complete, and an amelioration so important, 
 should be a subject of constant gratulation; and that every circum- 
 stance tending in the smallest degree to revive the former tabu should 
 be viewed with the most distressing apprehensions. 
 
 The only tabu they now have is the Sabbath, which they call 
 the La tabu, (day sacred,) and to its extension and perpetuity those 
 who understand it seem to have no objection. Philanthropy will 
 rejoice that their fears respecting the former are not likely to be 
 realized, for should Christianity not be embraced by some, and only 
 nominally professed by others, so sensible are the great body of the 
 people of the miseries of the tabu, that it is very improbable it will 
 ever be re-established among them. 
 
 On the other hand, there is every reason to hope that pure Chris- 
 tianity, which imposes none but moral restrictions, and requires no ap- 
 propriations but such as it will conduce to their own happiness to 
 make, will eventually pervade every portion of the community; and 
 that while it teaches them to render a reasonable homage and obe- 
 dience to the only living and true God, and prepares them for the 
 enjoyment of his presence in a future state, it will elevate the de- 
 graded classes, especially the females, to the rank and influence for 
 which they were designed, and render their domestic society as 
 rational and happy, as under the tabu it was abject and wretched. 
 
 CAPTAIN KING ON STATUS OF WOMEN IN HAWAII. 
 
 Their degraded condition appears to have attracted the notice of 
 the intelligent voyagers by whom the islands were discovered; for, 
 speaking of the Sandwich Islanders, Captain King, in his Continua- 
 tion of Cook 's Voyages, remarks, ' ' It must, however, be observed, 
 that they fall very short of the other islanders, in that best test of 
 civilization, the respect paid to the women. 
 
 Here they are not only deprived of the privilege of eating with the 
 men, but the best sorts of food are tabooed, or forbidden them"; 
 and adds, "In their domestic life, they appear to live almost entirely 
 by themselves; and though we did not observe any instance of per-
 
 295 
 
 sonal ill-treatment, yet it is evident they had little regard or atten. 
 tion paid them." Cook's Voyages, vol. iii. page 130. 
 
 SANDAL WOOD COLLECTING IN KOHALA. 
 
 Having seen the most remarkable places in the village, we took 
 leave of Miomioi, and proceeded in a N. N. W. direction. The soil 
 was fertile, and vegetation abundant. The coast towards the N. W. 
 point of the island is frequently broken by sung little bays or inlets, 
 which are invaluable to the inhabitants, on account of the facilities 
 they afford for fishing. The tract we passed over today seemed more 
 populous than that through which we had travelled yesterday, but 
 we found most of the villages destitute of inhabitants, except a few 
 women who had charge of some of the houses. On inquiry, we 
 learned that a short time ago the people of Kohala had received 
 orders from the king to provide a certain quantity of sandal-wood, 
 and that they were absent in the mountains, cutting it. 
 
 TRADITIONS OF PAAO, A WHITE PRIEST. 
 
 At noon we stopped at Kapaau, an inland village, where, with 
 some difficulty, we collected a congregation of about fifty, prin- 
 cipally women, to whom a short discourse was addressed. When we 
 had remained some time for rest and conversation, we resumed our 
 journey, and proceeded towards the north point of the island, near 
 which we passed through the district of Pauepu, in which formerly 
 stood a temple called Mokini, celebrated in the historical accounts of 
 the Hawaiians, as built by Paao, a foreign priest, who resided in 
 Pauepu, and officiated in this temple. 
 
 A tradition preserved among them states, that in the reign of 
 Kahoukapu, a kahuna (priest) arrived at Hawaii from a foreign 
 country; that he was a white man, and brought with him two idols 
 or gods, one large, and the other small; that they were adopted by 
 the people, and placed among the Hawaiian gods; that the above- 
 mentioned temple of Mokini was erected for them, where they were 
 worshipped according to the direction of Paao, who became a power- 
 ful man in the nation. The principal event preserved of his life, 
 however, respects a child of Kahoukapu, whose mother was a woman 
 of humble rank, but which was spared at the solicitations of Paao. 
 After his death, his son, Opiri, officiated in his temple; and the 
 only particular worthy of note in their account of his life, is his 
 acting as interpreter between the king and a party of white men 
 who arrived at the island. — We forbear making any comment on 
 the above, though it naturally originates a variety of interesting 
 inquiries. 
 
 We heard a similar account of this priest at two other places 
 during our tour, viz. at Kairua, ami at tin- fir.st place we visited 
 after setting out.
 
 29G 
 TALES OF ADVENTURES OF KANA. 
 
 During our journey today we also passed another place, celebrated 
 as the residence of the brother of Kana, a warrior; in comparison 
 with the fabulous accounts of -whom, the descriptions in the Arabian 
 Nights' Entertainments are tame. He~ is described as having been 
 so tall, that he could walk through the sea from one island to an- 
 other; stand with one foot on the island of Oahu, and the other on 
 Tauai, which is seventy miles distant. 
 
 The tale which recounts his adventures, states, that the Hawai- 
 ians, on one occasion, offended a king of Tahiti; who, in revenge, 
 deprived them of the sun; that after the land had remained some 
 time in darkness, Kana walked through the sea to Tahiti, where 
 Kahoaarii, who according to their traditions made the sun, then 
 resided. He obtained the sun, returned, and fixed it in the heavens, 
 where it has remained ever since. 
 
 Various other adventures, equally surprising, are related. The 
 numerous tales of fiction preserved by oral tradition among the 
 people, and from the recital of which they derive so much pleasure, 
 prove that they are not deficient in imagination; and lead us to 
 hope, that their mental powers will be hereafter employed on sub- 
 jects more consistent with truth, and productive of more pure and 
 permanent gratification. 
 
 TRADITIONS OF VOYAGES TO MARQUESAS AND TAHITI. 
 
 In this part of the island there is another tradition very gen- 
 erally received by the natives, of a somewhat more interesting 
 character; and as it may tend to illustrate the history of the in- 
 habitants, and the means by which the islands were peopled, I shall 
 introduce it in this place. 
 
 These traditions respect several visits, which in remote times 
 some of the natives made to Nuuhiva and Tahuata, two islands in 
 the Marquesian group, and to Tahiti, the principal of the Society 
 Islands. 
 
 One of these accounts the natives call, "The Voyage of Kama- 
 piikai, " in which they state that Kamapiikai (child running or 
 climbing the sea, — from kama, a child, pii, to run or climb, and 
 kai, the sea) was priest of a temple in Kohala, dedicated to Kane- 
 nuiakea. 
 
 The exact period of their history when he lived, we have not been 
 able to ascertain; but it is added, that the god appeared to him 
 in a vision, and revealed to him the existence, situation, and dis- 
 tance of Tahiti, and directed him to make a voyage thither. In 
 obedience to the communication, he immediately prepared for the 
 voyage, and, with about forty of his companions, set sail from 
 Hawaii in four double canoes.
 
 297 
 
 After an absence of fifteen years, they returned, and gave a 
 most flattering account of Haupokane, the country which they had 
 visited. We know of no island in the neighbourhood called by 
 this name, which appears to be a compound of Haupo, sometimes 
 a lap, and Kane, one of their gods. Among other things, they 
 described the one rauena, a peculiar kind of sandy beach, well 
 stocked with shell-fish, &c. The country, they said, was inhabited 
 by handsome people, whose property was abundant, and the fruits 
 of the earth delicious and plentiful. There was also a stream or 
 fountain, which was called the wai ora roa, (water of enduring 
 life.) 
 
 OTHER VOYAGES TO TAHITI. 
 
 Kamapiikai made three subsequent voyages to the country he had 
 discovered, accompanied by many of the Sandwich Islanders. From 
 the fourth voyage they never returned, and were supposed to have 
 perished at sea, or to have taken up their permanent residence at 
 Tahiti. Many were induced to accompany this priest to the country 
 he visited, for the purpose of bathing in the life-giving waters, in 
 consequence of the marvellous change they were reported to produce 
 in those who used them; for it was said, that however infirm, emaci- 
 ated, or deformed they might be when they went into the water, they 
 invariably came out young, strong, and handsome. 
 
 Without making further remarks, these traditions furnish very 
 strong evidence that the Sandwich Islanders were acquainted with 
 the existence of the Marquesian and Society Islands long before 
 visited by Captain Cook; and they also warrant the inference, that 
 in some remote period the Sandwich Islanders have visited or 
 colonized other islands in the Pacific. 
 
 About three P. M. we reached Owawarua, a considerable village on 
 the north-west coast, inhabited mostly by fishermen. Here we tried 
 to collect a congregation, but only three women and two small 
 children remained in the place, the rest having gone to Waimea to 
 fetch sandal wood for Karaiomoku. 
 
 From Owawarua we passed on to Hihiu, where we had an op- 
 portunity of speaking to a small party of natives. 
 
 HAWAIIAN FISHERIES AND PISHING METHODS. 
 
 In these villages we saw numbers of canoes and many large fish- 
 ing nets, which are generally made with a native kind of flax, very 
 strong and durable, but produced by a plant very different from that 
 called the phormium tenax, which furnishes the flax of New Zea- 
 land, and bearing a nearer resemblance to the plant used by the 
 natives of the Society Islands, called roa, the urtica argentea, or 
 candicans of Parkinson.
 
 298 
 
 In taking fish out at sea, they commonly make use of a net, of 
 which they have many kinds, some very large, others mere hand- 
 nets; they occasionally employ the hook and line, but never use 
 the spear or dart which is a favourite weapon with the southern 
 islanders. 
 
 Quantities of fish were spread out in the sun to dry, in several 
 places, and the inhabitants of the northern shores seem better sup- 
 plied with this article than those of any other part of the island. 
 
 The shores of Hawaii are by no means so well stocked with fish 
 as those of the Society Islands, for though the natives of the former 
 appear equally skilful and industrious, they have not from the sea 
 either that variety or abundance of fish which their southern neigh- 
 bours enjoy. 
 
 The numerous coral reefs and shoals, and lagoons of salt water, 
 which surround the latter islands, while very rare among these, is 
 the probable occasion of the difference in this respect. 
 
 The industry of the Hawaiians in a great degree makes up the 
 deficiency, for they have numerous small lakes and ponds, frequently 
 artificial, wherein they breed fish of various kinds, and in tolerable 
 abundance. 
 
 FROM KOHALA TO KAWAIHAE BY CANOE. 
 
 Being considerably fatigued, and unable to find any fresh water 
 in the village, we procured a canoe to take us to Towaihae, from 
 which we were distant about twenty miles. 
 
 Though we had numbered, in our journey today, 600 houses, we 
 had not seen any thing like four hundred people, almost the whole 
 population being employed in the mountains cutting sandal wood. 
 
 It was about seven o'clock in the evening when we sailed from 
 Hihiu, in a single canoe. The land breeze was light, but the canoe 
 went at a tolerably rapid rate, and about eleven at night we reached 
 Towaihae, where we were kindly received by Mr. Young. By him 
 we were informed that Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich had arrived at 
 Towaihae on the preceding Tuesday, and had gone to Kairua, ex- 
 pecting to obtain a passage to Oahu, in a native vessel called the 
 pilot-boat. 
 
 THOUSANDS OF MEN PACKING SANDAL WOOD. 
 
 Before daylight on the 22d we were roused by vast multitudes of 
 people passing through the district from Waimea with sandal wood, 
 which had been cut in the adjacent mountains for Karaimoku, by 
 the people of Waimea, and which the people of Kohala, as far as the 
 north point, had been ordered to bring down to his storehouse on 
 the beach, for the purpose of its being shipped to Oahu. 
 
 There were between two and three thousand men, carrying each
 
 299 
 
 from one to six pieces of sandal wood, according to their size and 
 weight. It was generally tied on their backs by bands made of ti 
 leaves, passed over the shoulders and under the arms, and fastened 
 across their breast. When they had deposited the wood at the store- 
 house, they departed to their respective homes. 
 
 AT THE KAWAIHAE WARM SPRINGS. 
 
 Between seven and eight in the morning, we walked to the warm 
 springs, a short distance to the southward of the large heiaus, and 
 enjoyed a most refreshing bathe. 
 
 These springs rise on the beach a little below high-water mark, of 
 course they are overflowed by every tide; but at low tide, the warm 
 water bubbles up through the sand, fills a small kind of cistern, 
 made with stones piled close together on the side towards the sea, 
 and affords a very agreeable bathing place. 
 
 The water is comfortably warm, and is probably impregnated 
 with sulphur; various medicinal qualities are ascribed to it by those 
 who have used it. 
 
 SALT PONDS AT KAWAIHAE. 
 
 The natives of this district manufacture large quantities of salt, 
 by evaporating the sea water. We saw a number of their pans, in 
 the disposition of which they display great ingenuity. They have 
 generally one large pond near the sea, into which the water flows 
 by a channel cut through the rocks, or is carried thither by the 
 natives in large calabashes. After remaining there some time, it is 
 conducted into a number of smaller pans about six or eight inches 
 in depth, which are made with great care, and frequently lined with 
 large evergreen leaves, in order to prevent absorption. Along the 
 narrow banks or partitions between the different pans, we saw a 
 number of large evergreen leaves placed. They were tied up at each 
 end, so as to resemble a shallow dish, and filled with sea water, in 
 which the crystals of salt were abundant. 
 
 USE OF SALT IN HAWAII AND SOCIETY ISLANDS. 
 
 Although salt was never made by the Society Islanders, who used 
 as a substitute the sea water, in a cocoa-nut shell-full of which 
 they always dipped their food before eating it, it has ever been an 
 essential article with the Sandwich Islanders, who eat it very freely 
 with their food, and use large quantities in preserving their fish. 
 
 They have, however, besides what they make, salt lakes, which 
 yield them large supplies. The surplus thus furnishcil. they dispose 
 of to vessels touching at the islands, or export to the Russian settle- 
 ments on the north-west coast of America, where it is in great de- 
 mand for curing fish, &c.
 
 300 
 
 The facility which many parts of the coast afford for this purpose, 
 and the length of the dry season, are favourable to the process; and, 
 together with the ready market which the natives find for it, will 
 probably induce them, as they advance in civilization, to manufacture 
 it in much greater abundance. 
 
 In the afternoon, Mr. Goodrich returned from Kairua, and in- 
 formed us that the pilot-boat was at Keauhou, and would sail for 
 Oahu in a fortnight. 
 
 BUILDING A CHURCH AT KAILUA. 
 
 He also brought the more pleasing intelligence, that the governor 
 was engaged in building a chapel for the public worship of God at 
 Kairua, having at the same time enjoined on his people the ob- 
 servance of the Sabbath as a day of rest from labour and amuse- 
 ment, to be employed, moreover, in religious exercises. This wel- 
 come news rendered it desirable that one of us should repair to 
 Kairua, in order to preach there on the coming Sabbath, and en- 
 courage them to persevere in the work they had so happily begun. 
 
 It was thought best that I should remove to Kairua, while Mr. 
 Thurston remained at Towaihae, with the intention of visiting that 
 part of Kohala which we had passed in the canoe on Wednesday 
 evening, and also the most populous places in the vicinity. This 
 arrangement, however, prevented our again uniting till we arrived at 
 Oahu. 
 
 THURSTON VISITS KOHALA. 
 
 On the 23d Mr. Thurston left Towaihae, and walked along the 
 shore towards the north point. About noon he reached a small 
 village, called Kipi, where he preached to the people; and as there 
 was only one village between Kipi and the place where I had preach- 
 ed on Wednesday evening, he retraced his steps to Towaihae. He 
 preached at four other villages on his return, where the congrega- 
 tions, though not numerous, were attentive. The heat of the sun 
 was oppressive, and the labours of the day fatiguing, yet it may be 
 hoped that some good was effected. The coast was barren; the 
 rocks volcanic; the men were all employed in fishing; and Mr. 
 Thurston was informed that the inhabitants of the plantations, about 
 seven miles in the interior, were far more numerous than on the 
 shore. In the evening he reached Towaihae, and found that Mr. 
 Goodrich had departed from Waimea, intending, after the Sabbath, 
 to ascend Mouna-Kea. 
 
 The 24th was, probably, the first Christian Sabbath ever enjoyed 
 by the people of Towaihae, which is a village containing 100 houses. 
 Mr. Thurston preached twice to the people. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 25th, the brig Nio arrived from Oahu, 
 intending to remain five or six days, and then return.
 
 301 
 MR. THURSTON VISITS WAIMEA POPULATION. 
 
 About five p. m. Mr. Thurston set out on a visit to the inland 
 district of Waimea, having been furnished with a guide by Mr. 
 Young. It was dark when he reached Ouli, a place belonging to the 
 latter, where he put up for the night. 
 
 After worship with the people, on the morning of the 26th, Mr. 
 Thurston walked on to Kalaloa, the residence of the chief of Waimea, 
 Kumuokapiki, (Stump of Cabbage), Leaving Kalaloa, he walked on 
 to Waiakea, from thence to Waikaloa, Pukalani, and Puukapu, which 
 is sixteen or eighteen miles from the sea-shore, and is the last village 
 in the district of Waimea. At these places he addressed the people. 
 
 The soil over which he had travelled was fertile, well watered, 
 and capable of sustaining many thousand inhabitants. In his walks 
 he had numbered 220 houses, and the present population is prob- 
 ably between eleven and twelve hundred. 
 
 CHARACTER OF LAND IN HAMAKCA, KOHALA AND WAIMEA. 
 
 The surface of the country is gently undulated, tolerably free from 
 rocks, and easy of cultivation. In this district, and throughout the 
 divisions of Hamakua and Kohala, together with the greater part of 
 Hiro, the plough might be introduced with advantage, and the pro- 
 ductions of intertropical climates raised in great abundance and 
 excellent quality, as the sugar-cane, and other indigenous plants, 
 grown at Waimea, are unusually large. 
 
 From Puukapu he directed his steps towards the sea-shore, and 
 in the twilight of the evening reached Puako, a considerable village, 
 four or five miles to the southward of Towaihae, where he took up 
 his lodging for the night. After addressing the people on the morn- 
 ing of the 27th, Mr. Thurston returned to Towaihae, where he 
 arrived at 10 a. m. 
 
 MR. GOODRICH MAKES TRIP TO MAUXA KEA. 
 
 About noon the same day, Mr. Goodrich returned from his journey 
 to Mouna-Kea. Leaving Towaihae on the 23d, he had walked to 
 Waimea, on the skirts of which he encamped with Mr. Parker, who 
 was employed in shooting wild cattle. With him he spent the Sab- 
 bath, which was rainy and unpleasant. 
 
 Larly on Monday the 25th, he commenced his journey up the moun- 
 tain. The path lay along the side of a deep ravine; tin- soil was 
 formed of decomposed lava ami ashes. 
 
 At noon he dismissed his native companion, ami. taking his great 
 coat and blanket, began to ascend tin more steep and rugged parts. 
 The way was difficult, on account of the rugged volcanic rocks and 
 stunted shrubs that covered the .sides of the mountain. In his way,
 
 302 
 
 he found numbers of red and -white raspberry bushes loaded with 
 delicious fruit. 
 
 CAMPING CONDITIONS AND EXPERIENCES. 
 
 At 5 p. m. having reached the upper boundary of the trees and 
 bushes that surround the mountain, he erected a temporary hut, 
 kindled a small fire, and prepared for his night's repose. The 
 thermometer shortly after sun-set stood at 43°; and the magnet, 
 though it pointed north -when held in the hand, -was drawn between 
 two and three degrees to the eastward, when placed on the blocks 
 of lava, owing probably to the quantity of iron in the mountain. 
 
 After a few hours' rest, Mr. Goodrich arose at eleven o'clock at 
 night, and the moon shining brightly, he resumed his journey to- 
 wards the summit. At midnight he saw the snow about three miles 
 distant, proceeded towards the place, and reached it about one o'clock 
 on the morning of the 26th. The snow was frozen over, and the 
 thermometer stood at 27°. 
 
 CONDITIONS AT SUMMIT. 
 
 He now directed his steps towards a neighbouring peak, which 
 appeared one of the highest; but when he had ascended it, he saw 
 several others still higher. He proceeded towards one, which looked 
 higher than the rest, and bore N. E. from the place where he was. 
 On reaching the summit of this second peak, he discovered a heap 
 of stones, probably erected by some former visitor. From this peak 
 Mouna-Roa bore south by west, Mouna-Huararai west by south, and 
 the island of Maui N. W. 
 
 The several hills or peaks on the summit of Mouna-Kea seemed 
 composed entirely of volcanic matter, principally cinders, pumice, and 
 sand. Mr. Goodrich did not discover apertures or craters on either 
 of the summits he visited; probably there is a large crater some- 
 where adjacent, from which the scoria, sand, and pumice, have been 
 thrown out. The whole of the summit was not covered with snow, 
 there were only frequent patches, apparently several miles in extent, 
 over which the snow was about eight inches or a foot in thickness. 
 The ocean to the east and west was visible; but the high land on 
 the north and south prevented its being seen in those directions. 
 
 Mr. Goodrich commenced his descent about three o'clock, and 
 after travelling over large beds of sand and cinders, into which he 
 sunk more than ankle deep at every step, he reached about sun-rise 
 the place where he had slept the preceding evening. The descent 
 in several places, especially over the snow, was steep and difficult, and 
 rendered the utmost caution necessary. After taking some refresh- 
 ment at this place, Mr. Goodrich continued his descent, and between 
 four and five in the afternoon reached the encampment of Mr. Parker.
 
 303 
 WILD CATTLE OX MAUNA KEA. 
 
 In his way down, he saw at a distance several herds of wild 
 cattle, which are very numerous in the mountains and inland parts 
 of the island, and are the produce of those taken there, and presented 
 to the king, by Captain Vancouver. They were, at his request, 
 tabued for ten years, during which time they resorted to the moun- 
 tains, and became so wild and ferocious, that the natives are afraid 
 to go near them. 
 
 Although there are immense herds of them, they do not attempt 
 to tame any; and the only advantage they derive is by employing 
 persons, principally foreigners, to shoot them, salt the meat in the 
 mountains, and bring it down to the shore for the purpose of pro- 
 visioning the native vessels. But this is attended with great labour 
 and expense. They first carry all the salt to the mountains. When 
 they have killed the animals, the flesh is cut off their bones, salted 
 immediately, and afterwards put into small barrels, which are brought 
 on men's shoulders ten or fifteen miles to the sea-shore. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 27th, Mr. Goodrich left Mr. Parker, 
 and returned through the fertile district of Waimea to Towaihae. 
 
 OTHER TRIPS TO MAUNA KEA. 
 
 Nearly six months afterwards, Dr. Blatchely and Mr. Euggles as- 
 cended Mouna-Kea, from Waiakea bay. After travelling six days, 
 they reached the summit of the mountain, where, within the circum- 
 ference of six miles, they found seven mountains or peaks, apparently 
 800 or 1000 feet high; their sides were steep, and covered with snow 
 about a foot thick. The summit of the mountain appeared to be 
 formed of decomposed lava, of a reddish brown colour. The peak 
 in the centre, and that on the western side, are the highest. 
 
 The following observations respecting a subsequent visit to this 
 mountain from Waiakea, contained in a letter from Mr. Goodrich to 
 Professor Silliman, of New Haven, are copied from the Philosophical 
 Magazine for September, 1826. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OP HILO SLOPE OP MAUNA KEA. 
 
 "There appear to be three or four different regions in passing 
 from the sea-shore to the summit. The first occupies five or six 
 miles, where cultivation is carried on in a degree, and might be 
 to almost any extent; but, as yet, not one-twentieth part is cultivated. 
 
 "The next is a sandy region, that is impassable, except in a few 
 foot-paths. Brakes, a species of tall fern, here grow to the size of 
 trees; the bodies of some of them are eighteen Inches in diameter. 
 
 "The woody region extends between ten and twenty miles in width. 
 
 "The region higher up produces grass, principally of the benl kind.
 
 304 
 
 Strawberries, raspberries, and whortleberries flourish in this region, 
 and herds of wild cattle are seen grazing. It is entirely broken up 
 by hills and valleys, composed of lava with a very shallow soil. The 
 upper region is composed of lava in almost every form, from 
 huge rocks to volcanic sand of the coarser kind. Some of the peaks 
 are composed of coarse sand, and others of loose stones and pebbles. 
 I found a few specimens, that I should not hesitate to pronounce 
 fragments of granite. I also found fragments of lava, bearing a near 
 resemblance to a geode, filled with green crystals, which I suppose 
 to be augite. 
 
 WILD SHEEP, DOGS AND GOATS. 
 
 "Very near to the summit, upon one of the peaks, I found eight or 
 ten dead sheep; they probably fled up there to seek a refuge from 
 the wild dogs; I have heard that there are many wild dogs, sheep, 
 and goats. Dogs and goats I have never seen. I was upon the 
 summit about 2 o'clock p. m., the wind S. W., much resembling the 
 cold blustering winds of March, the air being so rare produced a 
 severe pain in my head, that left me as I descended." 
 
 LEGENDS OP MAUNA KEA. 
 
 In the native language, the word kea, though seldom used now, 
 formerly meant, white. Some white men, who are said to have 
 resided inland, and to have come down to the sea shore frequently 
 in the evening, and to have frightened the people, were called na kea, 
 (the whites.) 
 
 The snow on the summit of the mountain, in all probability, in- 
 duced the natives to call it Mouna-Kea, (mountain white,) or, as 
 we should say, white mountain. They have numerous fabulous tales 
 relative to its being the abode of the gods, and none ever approach 
 its summit, — as, they say, some who have gone there have been 
 turned to stone. We do not know that any have ever been frozen to 
 death; but neither Mr. Goodrich, nor Dr. Blatchely and his com- 
 panion, could persuade the natives, whom they engaged as guides up 
 the side of the mountain, to go near its summit. 
 
 We could not but regret that we had no barometer, or other means 
 of estimating the actual elevation of this mountain, either here or at 
 Waiakea. 
 
 GOVERNOR KUAKINI BUILDS A CHURCH. 
 
 Mr. Bishop, who, in company with Mr. Goodrich, had left To- 
 waihae in a canoe belonging to Mr. Young, on the evening of the 
 19th, was obliged to put on shore about midnight, on account of the 
 rough sea, which rendered it dangerous to proceed. Having slept 
 in the open air till daylight, they resumed their voyage on the
 
 305 
 
 20th, and reached Kairua about noon, after an absence of four weeks 
 and five days. 
 
 The governor welcomed their return, and they were agreeably 
 surprised to find him engaged in erecting a building for the worship 
 of the true God. They learned that he had during the preceding 
 week collected his people at Kairua, and addressed them on the 
 duty of observing the Sabbath according to the laws of Jehovah. He 
 also told them it was his desire that they should cease from work 
 or amusement on that day, and attend divine service at his house. 
 
 The people assented to his proposal, and when the Sabbath arrived, 
 such numbers assembled, that hundreds were obliged to stand outside. 
 Numbers also repaired to the house of Thomas Hopu, to be instructed 
 in what they denominate the new religion. 
 
 The next day the governor directed the people of Kairua to com- 
 mence building a house, in which they might all meet to worship 
 God; and in the morning on which Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich 
 arrived, they had commenced their work. 
 
 HEIAU FURNISHES MATERIAL FOR CHURCH BUILDING. 
 
 In the afternoon they walked to the place where the men were 
 at work. Upwards of fifty persons were employed in carrying stones 
 from an old heiau, which they were pulling down, to raise the ground, 
 and lay the foundation of the place of worship. It was a pleasing 
 sight to view the ruins of an idol's temple devoted to such a purpose; 
 and they could not but hope that the spirit of Christianity would 
 soon triumph over the superstition, prejudice, and wickedness of 
 idolatry. 
 
 The place of worship is sixty feet long and thirty broad, erected 
 in the native manner, and thatched with the leaves of the pan- 
 danus. The walls are ten feet high, with doors at each end, and 
 four windows on each side. It was impossible to behold the work 
 without contemplating it as an intimation of most benevolent de- 
 signs, on the part of the Lord of missions, towards the benighted 
 tribes around, or without praying that the time might soon arrive 
 when houses for the worship of the living God shall be erected in 
 every district in the islands. 
 
 Recent intelligence conveys the pleasing information, that five 
 or six places of worship and a number of schools have already been 
 erected in Hawaii, and a proportionate number in other islands of the 
 group. 
 
 VICISSITUDES OF INTER-ISLAND TRAVEL. 
 
 On the 22d, after the return of Mr. Goodrich to Towaihae, a small 
 boat arrived, which had left Oahu some days before for M:iui, but had 
 been blown so far to the southward, that they had with difficulty 
 
 20
 
 306 
 
 made the south point of Hawaii. They stopped at Kairua a short 
 time in order to procure water, for the want of which they had 
 suffered severely. As they intended proceeding to Oahu, Mr. Bishop 
 wrote to the mission family there, informing them that the tour 
 of the island had been accomplished, and that the missionaries were 
 waiting an opportunity to return. 
 
 On the 23d he visited the well, and found that the men had not 
 made much progress. The rocks of lava, though hard, are cellular, 
 so that powder has very little effect, and therefore they proceeded 
 but slowly by blasting it. 
 
 NATIVES OBSERVE THE SABBATH. 
 
 The morning of the 24th was the Sabbath, and was unusually 
 still; not a canoe was seen in the bay, and the natives seemed to 
 have left their customary labours and amusements, to spend the day 
 as directed by the governor. Mr. Bishop spent half an hour with 
 him this morning, explaining in English the 21st and 22nd chapters 
 of Bevelation. 
 
 I joined them at breakfast, having arrived at Kairua about an 
 hour before daylight. I had left Towaihae on the preceding day 
 at six in the morning, in a canoe kindly furnished by Mr. Young. 
 
 VISITING VILLAGES BETWEEN KAWAIHAE AND KAILUA. 
 
 About nine a. m. I stopped at Kaparaoa, a small village on the 
 beach, containing twenty-two houses, where I found the people pre- 
 paring their food for the ensuing day, on which they said the gov- 
 ernor had sent word for them to do no work, neither cook any food. 
 When the people were collected, I addressed them, and after answering 
 a number of inquiries respecting the manner in which they should 
 keep the Sabbath-day, again embarked on board my canoe, and 
 sailed to Wainanarii, where I landed, repaired to the house of Waipo, 
 the chief, who, as soon as the object of my visit was known, directed 
 the people to assemble at his house. 
 
 At Kaparaoa I saw a number of curiously carved wooden idols, 
 which formerly belonged to an adjacent temple. I asked the natives 
 if they would part with any? They said, Yes; and I should have 
 purchased one, but had no means of conveying it away, for it was 
 an unwieldy log of heavy wood, twelve or fourteen feet long, curious- 
 ly carved, in rude and frightful imitation of the human figure. 
 
 After remaining there till two p. m. I left them making prepara- 
 tion to keep the Sabbath-day, according to the orders they had 
 received from the governor. 
 
 KAMEHAMEHA'S FISH-POND AT KIHOLO. 
 
 About four in the afternoon I landed at Kihoro, a straggling 
 village, inhabited principally by fishermen. A number of people
 
 308 
 
 collected, to whom I addressed a short discourse, from 1 John i. 7. 
 
 This village exhibits another monument of the genius of Tame- 
 hameha. A small bay, perhaps half a mile across, runs inland a 
 considerable distance. From one side to the other of this bay, Tame- 
 hameha built a strong stone wall, six feet high in some places, and 
 twenty feet wide, by which he had an excellent fish-pond, not less 
 than two miles in circumference. 
 
 There were several arches in the wall, which were guarded by 
 strong stakes driven into the ground so far apart as to admit the 
 water of the sea; yet sufficiently close to prevent the fish from es- 
 caping. It was well stocked with fish, and water-fowl were seen 
 swimming on its surface. 
 
 DISCUSSIONS WITH THE PEOPLE OF KIHOLO. 
 
 The people of this village, as well as the others through which I 
 had passed, were preparing to keep the Sabbath, and the conversa- 
 tion naturally turned on the orders recently issued by the governor. 
 
 They said it was a bad thing to commit murder, infanticide, and 
 theft, which had also been forbidden; that it would be well to 
 abstain from these crimes; but, they said, they did not know of 
 what advantage the palapala (instruction, &c.) would be. 
 
 I remained some time with them, and told them I hoped mis- 
 sionaries would soon come to reside permanently at Kairua, whither 
 I advised them to repair as frequently as possible, that they might 
 participate the advantages of instruction — be made better acquainted 
 with the character of the true God, and the means of seeking his 
 favour. 
 
 FROM KIHOLO TO KAILUA. 
 
 Just before sun-set, I left Kihora. The men paddled the canoe 
 past Lae-mano, (Shark 's-point,) a point of land formed by the last 
 eruption of the great crater on Mouna-Huararai, which took place 
 twenty years ago. 
 
 Between seven and eight in the evening, we reached Kaupulehu, 
 where the men drew the canoe on the beach, and, as the inhabitants 
 were all buried in sleep, laid down to repose on the sand till the 
 moon should rise. About eleven p. m. I awoke my companions; and 
 the moon having risen, they launched the canoe, and, after paddling 
 hard several hours, reached Kairua at the time above mentioned. 
 
 At breakfast the governor seemed interested in the narrative of the 
 tour, particularly of the interview we had with the priestess of Pele 
 at "Waiakea. 
 
 SUNDAY SERVICES TO 800 AT KAILUA. 
 
 At half-past ten, the bell rung for public worship, and about 800 
 people, decently dressed, some in foreign, others in native clothing,
 
 309 
 
 assembled under a large ranai (a place sheltered from the sun) formed 
 by two large canvas awnings, and a number of platted cocoanut 
 leaves, spread over the place from posts fixed in the fence which 
 enclosed the court yard around the house of the governor's wife. 
 
 The governor and his attendants sat on chairs; the rest of the 
 congregation reclined on their mats, or sat on the ground. 
 
 After singing and prayer, I preached from Acts xvi. 30, 31. The 
 history of the Philippian jailor appeared to interest them, and, after 
 the conclusion of the service, the governor in particular made many 
 inquiries. 
 
 FONDNESS OF NATIVES FOR DOGS. 
 
 We have often had occasion to notice the fondness of the natives 
 for their dogs. The pets are usually of a small size; and though the 
 females generally evince the greatest regard for them, frequently 
 bringing them in their arms or on their backs, when they come to 
 our public meetings, yet the men are occasionally seen attended 
 by their favourite dog. This has been particularly the case at 
 Kairua. 
 
 AFTERNOON AND EVENING SERVICES AT KAILUA. 
 
 At half-past four in the afternoon the bell rung again, and the 
 people collected in the place where the services had been held in 
 the forenoon, and in equal numbers seated themselves very quietly. 
 The exercises commenced in the usual manner, and I preached on the 
 occasion from Acts v. 14. They were attentive, and appeared much 
 affected with the account of the awful end of Ananias and Sapphira. 
 
 After the public exercises were finished, Mr. Bishop visited Thomas 
 Hopu's house, where a small congregation was assembled for con- 
 versation and prayer. Mr. Bishop gave them a short exhortation; 
 and many of the people remained after the service, to hear more 
 from Thomas about Jesus Christ. 
 
 The Sabbath was spent in a manner truly gratifying. No athletic 
 sports were seen on the beach; no noise of playful children, shouting 
 as they gambol'd in the surf, nor distant sound of the cloth-beating 
 mallet, was heard through the day; no persons were seen carrying 
 burdens in or out of the village, nor any canoes passing across tin- 
 calm surface of the bay. It could not but be viewed as the dawn 
 of a bright sabbatic day for the dark shores of Hawaii. 
 
 In the evening, family worship was conducted a1 the governor's 
 house in the native language; his companions and domestics at- 
 tended, and expressed themselves pleased with the singing. 
 
 On the 27th it was proposed to the governor to have a public 
 meeting, and a sermon, as was tin- practice at Oahu; but he objected, 
 Baying that the people would nol attend, and it was too soon yel to 
 have preaching among them during the we<
 
 310 
 
 Having hoard of the arrival of the brig Nio at Towaihae, Mr. 
 Bishop left Kairua in the evening, to return to Oahu; while I 
 remained, in order to preach to the governor and his people on the 
 next Sabbath, expecting then to reach Towaihae in season to proceed 
 to Oahu by the Nio. 
 
 ISLAND SHIPPING IN 1823. 
 
 The natives possess no inconsiderable share of maritime and com- 
 mercial enterprise. The king and chiefs own fifteen or sixteen vessels, 
 several of which, like the Nio, are brigs of ninety or a hundred tons 
 burden. The greater part of them, however, are schooners of a 
 smaller size. 
 
 The larger ones on a long voyage are commanded by a foreigner; 
 but among the islands, they are manned and navigated by the natives 
 themselves. A native captain and supercargo is appointed to each; 
 the former navigates the vessel, while the latter attends to the cargo. 
 
 The natives in general make good sailors; and although their 
 vessels have greatly multiplied within the last few years, they find 
 constant employ for them, particularly the small craft, which are 
 continually plying from one island to another, while their larger 
 ones are either chartered to foreign merchants, or make distant 
 voyages on their own account. 
 
 VOYAGES TO FOREIGN COUNTRIES. 
 
 They have once sent a vessel to Canton loaded with sandal wood, 
 under the care of an English captain and mate, but manned by 
 natives. They have also traded to Kamtschatka and other parts of 
 the Pacific, and have within the last few years made one or two 
 successful voyages for the purpose of procuring seal skins, which 
 they have disposed of to advantage. 
 
 ORIGIN OF HAWAIIAN FLAG. 
 
 The national flag of the islands, which is an English jack, with 
 eight or nine horizontal stripes, of white, red, and blue, was given 
 them by the British government many years ago, accompanied by 
 an assurance that it would be respected wherever the British flag 
 was acknowledged. 
 
 SUPPLIES SOLD TO SHIPS. 
 
 Although they are so expert in the manufacture of their canoes, 
 they have made but little progress in building and repairing their 
 ships, or in any of the mechanic arts. They seem much more fond 
 of the pursuits of commerce, and are tolerable adepts in bartering. 
 In exchange for foreign articles, they not only give sandal wood 
 and salt, but furnish supplies to the numerous vessels which visit 
 the islands for the purpose of refitting or procuring refreshments.
 
 311 
 
 In the months of March and April, and of September and October, 
 many vessels, principally whalers, resort to the Sandwich Islands for 
 fresh provisions, &c. — we have seen upwards of thirty lying at 
 anchor off Oahu at one time. The farmers in many places dispose 
 of the produce of their land to these ships; but in Oahu and some 
 other harbours, this trade is almost entirely monopolized by the king 
 and chiefs. 
 
 OPPRESSIVE TAXATION BY CHIEFS— COMMERCE "WITH SHIPS. 
 
 There is indeed a public market, in which the natives dispose of 
 their stock; but the price is regulated by the chiefs, and two- 
 
 The Hawaiian Flag. 
 
 Said by Ellis to have been Designed by the 
 British Government. 
 
 thirds of the proceeds of whatever the natives sell is required by 
 them. 
 
 This is not only unpleasant to those who trade with them, but 
 very oppressive, and retards in no small degree the industry, comfort, 
 and civilization of the people. 
 
 In return for most of the supplies which they furnish to the 
 shipping, they receive Spanish dollars; but the sandal wood, &c, they 
 usually exchange for articles of European or Chinese fabrication: 
 the silks, crapes, umbrellas, furniture, and trunks of the latter, are 
 most in demand; while those of the former are hardware, earthen- 
 ware, linens, broad-cloth, slops, hats, shoes, canvas, cordage, &c. 
 
 The season was approaching when the whalers, fishing on the coast 
 of Japan, usually put in to some of the harbours of these islands. 
 Hence Karaimoku had sent the Ni<> for B cargo of bogs, to meet 
 the demand for these animals, which he expected would follow their 
 
 arrival.
 
 312 
 
 BISHOP AND GOODRICH RETURN TO HONOLULU. 
 
 About noon on the 2Sth, Mr. Bishop reached Towaihae; and in 
 the evening of the 30th, they received the unexpected information 
 that the brig would sail that evening: Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich 
 therefore went on board, leaving Mr. Thurston at Towaihae to preach 
 to the people there on the next day, which was the Sabbath, and 
 afterwards join the vessel at the north point of the island, where they 
 were going to take in hogs for Karaimoku, to whom the division of 
 Kohala belonged, though the island in general was under the jurisdic- 
 tion of Kuakini the governor. 
 
 THE HAWAIIAN SYSTEM OP GOVERNMENT. 
 
 Their system of government is rather complex; and having occa- 
 sionally mentioned several of its leading members, some further 
 account of it will perhaps be acceptable. 
 
 The government of the Sandwich Islands is an absolute monarchy. 
 The supreme authority is hereditary. 
 
 The rank of the principal and inferior chiefs, the offices of the 
 priests, and other situations of honour, influence, and emolument, 
 descend from father to son, and often continue through many gen- 
 erations in the same family, though the power of nomination to 
 every situation of dignity and trust is vested in the king; and persons 
 by merit, or royal favour, frequently rise from comparatively humble 
 rank to the highest station in the islands, as in the instance of 
 Karaimoku, sometimes called by foreigners, William Pitt. This in- 
 dividual, from being a chief of the third or fourth rank, has long 
 been prime minister, in rank second only to the king, and having, in 
 fact, the actual government of the whole of the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 BASIS OP RANK IN HAWAIIAN SOCIETY. 
 
 Hereditary rank and authority are not confined to the male sex, 
 but are inherited also by the females; and, according to tradition, 
 several of the islands have been once or twice under the government 
 of a queen. 
 
 Four distinct classes or ranks in society appear to exist among 
 them. The highest rank includes the king, queens, and all the branches 
 of the reigning family. It also includes the chief counsellor or 
 minister of the king, who, though inferior by birth, is by office and 
 authority superior to the queens and other members of the. royal 
 family. 
 
 SECOND RANK IN SOCIETY. 
 
 The second rank includes the governors of the different islands, and 
 also the chiefs of several large divisions or districts of land. Many
 
 313 
 
 of these are the descendants of the ancient families of Taraiopu, 
 Kehekii, Teporiorani, and Taeo, who were the kings of Hawaii, Maui, 
 Oahu, and Tauai, when the islands were visited by Captain Cook; 
 they retained their power until subdued by Tamehameha. Several 
 of them were either the favourite and warlike companions of that 
 prince, or are descended from those who were; among whom may be 
 classed Kuakini the governor, Kaahumanu, Piia, Boki, Wahinepio, 
 Kaikeova, and others. 
 
 THIRD RANK IN SOCIETY. 
 
 The third rank is composed of those who hold districts or villages, 
 and pay a regular rent for the land, cultivating it either by their own 
 dependants and domestics, or letting it out in small allotments to 
 tenants. This class is by far the most numerous body of chiefs in 
 the island. 
 
 Among the principal may be ranked Kamakau at Kaavaroa, Maaro 
 at Waiakea, Haa at Waipio, Auae at Wairuku, and Kahanaumaitai 
 at "Waititi. They are generally called Haku aina, proprietors of land. 
 This rank would also include most of the priests under the former 
 dispensation. 
 
 In the fourth rank may be included the small farmers who renf 
 from ten to twenty or thirty acres of land, the mechanics, viz. 
 canoe and house builders, fishermen, musicians, and dancers; indeed, 
 all the labouring classes, those who attach themselves to some chief 
 or farmer, and labour on his land for their food and clothing, aa 
 well as those who cultivate small portions of land for their own 
 advantage. 
 
 ETIQUETTE TOWARD AXD BETWEEN' CHIEFS. 
 
 Though the chiefs did not receive that abject and humiliating 
 homage which is frequently paid to superiors in barbarous nations, 
 where the government is arbitrary, yet the common people always 
 manifested a degree of respect to the chiefs, according to their rank 
 or office. This, towards the sacred chiefs, amountn! almost to adora- 
 tion, as they were on no occasion allowed to touch their persons, 
 but prostrated themselves before them, and could not enter their 
 houses without first receiving permission. 
 
 The behaviour among the chiefs was courteous, and manifested ri 
 desire to render themselves agreeable to each other; while all ob- 
 served a degree of etiquette in their direct intercourse with the king 
 He is usually attended by a number of courtiers or favourites, Bailed 
 Punahele, who join in his amusements and occupations, excepl in 
 affairs of government, with which they seem to have no concern. 
 
 When in a state of inebriation, nil marks of distinction were lost,
 
 314 
 
 but at other times even these favourites conducted themselves to- 
 wards their sovereign with great respect. 
 
 I have often seen Kapihe and Kekuanaoa, the two who accom- 
 panied Rihoriho to England, come into his presence, and wait without 
 speaking, whatever their business might be, till he should address 
 them, and then continue standing until requested by him to sit down. 
 
 GOVERNMENT RESEMBLES FEUDAL SYSTEM. 
 
 In some respects the government resembles the ancient feudal 
 system of the northern nations. During many periods of their history, 
 not only the separate islands, but the larger divisions of some of 
 them, have been under the government of independent kings or 
 chiefs; and it does not appear that until the reign of Rihoriho, the 
 late king, they were ever united under one sovereign. 
 
 The king is acknowledged in every island as the lord and pro- 
 prietor of the soil by hereditary right, or the laws of conquest. 
 
 When Tamehameha had subdued the greater part of the islands, 
 he distributed them among his favourite chiefs and warriors, on con- 
 dition of their rendering him, not only military service, but a certain 
 proportion of the produce of their lands. 
 
 This also appears to have been their ancient practice on similar 
 occasions, as the hoopahora or papahora, division of land among the 
 ranakira or victors, invariably followed the conquest of a district 
 or island. 
 
 DIVISION OF AUTHORITY BY ISLANDS AND DISTRICTS. 
 
 Every island is given by the king to some high chief, who is 
 supreme governor in it, but is subject to the king, whose orders he 
 is obliged to see executed, and to whom he pays a regular rent or tax, 
 according to the size of the island, or the advantages it may possess. 
 
 Each island is separated into a number of permanent divisions, 
 sometimes fifty or sixty miles in extent. In Hawaii there are six, 
 Kohala, Kona, &c. 
 
 Each of the large divisions is governed by one or two chiefs, 
 appointed by the king or by the governor, and approved by the 
 former. These large divisions are divided into districts and villages, 
 which sometimes extend five or six miles along the coast; at others, 
 not more than half a mile. 
 
 A head man, nominated by the governor, usually presides over 
 these villages, which are again subdivided into a number of small 
 farms or plantations. 
 
 The names of these are generally significant; as Towahai, the 
 waters broken, from a stream which runs through the district, and 
 is divided near the sea; Kairua, two seas, from the waters of the 
 bay being separated by a point of land, &c.
 
 315 
 
 Although this is the usual manner in which the land is distributed, 
 yet the king holds personally a number of districts in most of the 
 islands, and several of the principal chiefs receive districts directly 
 from the king, and independent of the governor of the island in 
 which they are situated. 
 
 PAYMENT OF RENT AND TAXES. 
 
 The governor of the island pays over to the king annually, or 
 half yearly, the rents or taxes required by the latter. These he 
 receives from the chiefs under him, who generally pay in the produce 
 of the soil. Sometimes the king requires a certain sum in Spanish 
 dollars, at other times in sandal wood. 
 
 This, however, is only a modern regulation, introduced since they 
 have become acquainted with the use of money, and the value of 
 sandal wood. 
 
 The rent was originally paid in canoes, native cloth, mats, fishing- 
 nets, hogs, dogs, and the produce of the soil, for the use of the king, 
 and the numerous train of favourite chiefs and dependants by which 
 he was surrounded, and who were daily fed from the provisions of 
 his house. 
 
 For this tax the governor is responsible, and it is his business 
 to see it conveyed to the king, or disposed of according to his order. 
 
 A second tax is laid on the districts by the governor, for himself. 
 
 The inhabitants of those portions of the island, however, which 
 belong to other chiefs, although they furnish their share towards 
 the king's revenue, are not called upon to support the governor of 
 the island, but are expected to send a part of the produce of the land 
 to their own chiefs. 
 
 After this has been paid, additional requisitions are made upon the 
 poor people cultivating the land, by the petty chiefs of the districts 
 and villages; these, however, are but trifling. 
 
 NO FIXED TAX. 
 
 There is no standing rule for the amount of rents or taxes, but 
 they are regulated entirely by the caprice or necessities of their 
 rulers. Sometimes the poor people take a piece of land, on condition 
 of cultivating a given portion for the chief, and the remainder for 
 themselves, making a fresh agreement after every crop. 
 
 In addition to the above demands, the common people are in general 
 obliged to labour, if required, part of two days out of seven, in 
 cultivating farms, building houses, &c, for thrir landlord. 
 
 A time is usually appointed (or receiving the rent, when the people 
 repair to the governor's with what they have to pay. It' the required 
 amount is furnished they return, and, as they express it. (komo hou)
 
 316 
 
 enter again on their land. But if unable to pay the required sum, 
 and their landlords are dissatisfied with the presents they have 
 received, or think the tenants have neglected their farm, they are 
 forbidden to return, and the laud is offered to another. When, how- 
 ever, the produce brought is nearly equal to the required rent, and 
 the chiefs think the occupants have exerted themselves to procure 
 it, they remit the deficiency, and allow them to return. 
 
 Besides the stipulated rent, the people are expected to make a 
 number of presents to their chiefs, usually the first fish in season, 
 from their artificial ponds, or from the sea, if the land they occupy 
 be near the coast, together with the first-fruits of the trees and 
 plantations. 
 
 CERTAIN LANDS FREE OF TAX. 
 
 Though these are the usual conditions on which land is held, there 
 are a number of districts, called aina ku pono, (land standing erect,) 
 held free from all rent and taxes, except a few presents, the value 
 and frequency of which are entirely optional with the occupier. 
 
 These privileges of exemption from the established usage, were 
 probably granted originally in reward for eminent services rendered 
 the king, and they continue permanent, for should the king, on ad- 
 count of any crime, banish an individual holding one of these dis- 
 tricts, the next occupant would enjoy all the privileges of his 
 predecessor. 
 
 PEOPLE PASS WITH THE LAND. 
 
 The common people are generally considered as attached to the 
 soil, and are transferred with the land from one chief to another. 
 
 In recently conquered districts, they were formerly obliged to 
 abide on the land which they cultivated, as slaves to the victors; 
 at present, though they frequently remain through life the dependants 
 or tenants of the same chief, such continuance appears on their part 
 to be voluntary. 
 
 No chief can demand any service or supplies from those who 
 occupy the land of another without his direction. 
 
 The king occasionally changes the tenants of a farm, without taking 
 the proprietorship from the chief who may hold it more immediately 
 from himself; and when the rents are insufficient to meet his wants, if 
 any of the neighbouring farmers have potatoes and taro in their fields, 
 he, or any high chief, will send their men, and hao (seize) the greater 
 part of them, without making any remuneration to the injured parties. 
 
 HARBOR DUES BELONG TO KING. 
 
 Besides the sums which the king receives from the land, and the 
 monopoly of the trade, in live stock and other supplies furnished to
 
 317 
 
 the shipping at several ports in the islands, the revenue is augmented 
 by the harbour dues at Oahu. 
 
 Every vessel anchoring in the outer harbour pays sixty dollars, and 
 eighty for entering the basin, or inner harbour. 
 
 Till within two or three years, it was only forty for one, and sixty 
 for the other. 
 
 ORIGIN OF HARBOR DUES. 
 
 The demand for these dues originated in their unprofitable voyage 
 to Canton in 1816. The cargo of sandal wood was sold, but instead 
 of a return in cloths, silks, &c, the vessel came back nearly empty, 
 and in debt. The king inquired the reason; when the captain, a 
 very incompetent person for such a business, told him, that some 
 of the money had been stolen; that so much was demanded for 
 pilotage, coming to anchor, &c, as to leave nothing for the purpose 
 of fitting the vessel for sea, which had occasioned the debt. "If," 
 replied the king, "that be the case, we will have a pilot here, and 
 every vessel that enters the harbour shall pay me for anchorage." 
 
 The pilotage, which is a dollar per foot for every yessel, both on 
 entering and leaving the harbour, is divided between the govern- 
 ment and the pilot. 
 
 OTHER FORMS OF TAXATION. 
 
 Another singular method of taxing the people, is by building a 
 new house for the king or some principal chief. 
 
 On the first day the king or chief enters it, the chiefs and the 
 people of the neighbourhood repair thither, to pay their respects, 
 and present their gifts. 
 
 Custom obliges every chief to appear on such occasions, or expose 
 himself to the imputation of being disaffected; and no one is allowed 
 to enter without a present of money. The amount is proportioned 
 to their rank or the land they hold. Some chiefs, on such occasions, 
 give sixty dollars, others ten or five, and some only one. 
 
 A short time before his embarkation for England, a large native 
 house was built for Eihoriho, at Honoruru, in the Island of Oahu. 
 During three days after the king went into it, the people came with 
 their gifts. No individual, not even the queens, entered the house 
 without presenting the king a sum of money; several gave upwards 
 of fifty dollars; and we saw more than two thousand dollars received 
 in one day. A similar tax was also levied by Kuukini, the governor 
 at Kairua, when he first entered a handsome framed house, recently 
 erected there. 
 
 TRADITIONAL CODE OF LAW. 
 
 Until the establishment of a Christian mission among them, the 
 Sandwich Islanders had no records, and consequently ttO written 
 
 laws.
 
 318 
 
 There is, however, a kind of traditionary code, a number of regu- 
 lations which have been either promulgated by former kings, or 
 followed by general consent, respecting the tenure of lands, right 
 of property, personal security, and exchange or barter, which are 
 well understood, and usually acted upon. 
 
 The portion of personal labour due from a tenant to his chief is 
 fixed by custom, and a chief would be justified in banishing the 
 person who should refuse it when required; on the other hand, were 
 a chief to banish a man who had rendered it, and paid the stipulated 
 rent, his conduct would be contrary to their opinions of right, and 
 if the man complained to the governor or the king, and no other 
 charge was brought against him, he would most likely be reinstated. 
 
 The irrigation of their plantations is of great importance in most 
 parts, and there is a law that the water shall be conducted over 
 every plantation twice a week in general, and once a week during 
 the dry season. 
 
 REVERSION OF LAND UPON DEATH OP OWNER. 
 
 On the death of a chief, his lands revert to the king or the 
 governor of the island. He may nominate his son, his wife, or any 
 other person, to succeed to his districts, &c, but the appointment 
 must be confirmed by the king or governor, before the individual can 
 take possession. 
 
 This regulation, next to the tabu, is the most effectual mode of 
 preserving the authority and influence of the king and chiefs. 
 
 PENALTY FOR MURDER AND THEFT. 
 
 In cases of assault or murder, except when committed by their 
 own chief, the family and friends of the injured party are, by com- 
 mon consent, justified in retaliating. When they are too weak to 
 attack the offender, they seek the aid of their neighbours, appeal 
 to the chief of the district, or the king, who seldom inflicts a heavier 
 punishment than banishment even for murder, which, however, is a 
 crime very rarely committed by the natives. 
 
 Theft among themselves is severely punished. Formerly, when 
 a garden or house had been robbed, and the robbers were discovered, 
 those whose goods had been stolen repaired to the house or planta- 
 tion of the offenders, and hao (seized) whatever they could find. 
 This regulation was so well established, that though the guilty party 
 should be strongest, they would not dare to resist the retaliation; 
 for in the event of their making any opposition, the people of a 
 whole district would support those who were thus punishing the in- 
 dividuals by whom theft had been committed.
 
 319 
 PENALTY FOR ROBBERY AND ADULTERY. 
 
 When robbery had been committed on the property of a high chief, 
 or to any great amount, the thief, in some of the islands, was fre- 
 quently bound hand and foot, placed in an old decayed canoe, towed 
 out to sea, and turned adrift. The canoe speedily filled, and the 
 culprit, being bound, soon sunk beneath the waves. 
 
 Adultery among the highest ranks has been punished with death 
 by decapitation. 
 
 LAW RELATING TO BARTER. 
 
 In the transactions of barter among themselves, there are several 
 regulations which they punctually observe. No bargain was con- 
 sidered binding till the articles were actually exchanged, and the 
 respective owners expressed themselves satisfied. Afterwards there 
 was no withdrawing, however injurious the bargain might be to 
 either party. 
 
 There is, in the Sandwich Islands, no class of men, either peasants 
 or mechanics, who are regularly employed as day-labourers, or who 
 receive for their work a stipulated payment, excepting those em- 
 ployed by foreigners. 
 
 In hiring workmen to dig stone, burn lime, build a house or canoe, 
 &c. it is a common practice among the natives themselves to make 
 the bargain with a petty chief, who requires the labour of all his 
 dependants in its fulfilment. They usually pay beforehand; and 
 those who have received such remuneration are bound, when called 
 upon, to perform their work, or have their property seized, and their 
 plantations plundered. 
 
 These, and several similar regulations, are generally received, and 
 govern the conduct of the people. The king can dispense with any 
 of them; but such conduct would be contrary to the established usage, 
 and is seldom done. 
 
 WILL OP KING AND CHIEFS IS SUPREME. 
 
 The will of the king, however, being the supreme law, the gov- 
 ernment is more or less arbitrary as his disposition is humane or 
 vindictive and cruel. 
 
 His power extends, not only over the property, but over the 
 liberty and lives of the people. 
 
 This power is delegated by him 1" the irovernors of the different 
 islands, and by them again to the chiefs of the district.-. 
 
 A chief takes the life of One Of his OWB people fOI any offence 
 he may commit, and no one thinks lie has a right to interfere. Hut 
 though the power of the chiefs is so absolute over their own people, it 
 extends no further. A chief dare BOl for any offence punish a
 
 320 
 
 man belonging to another, but must complain to the chief on whose 
 land the offender resides. 
 
 CONSTITUTION OP COURTS. 
 
 The king is chief magistrate over the whole islands. The gov- 
 ernors sustain the same office in the islands under their jurisdiction, 
 and the chiefs of the districts are the arbitrators in all quarrels 
 among their own people. 
 
 A man dissatisfied with the decisions of his chief, may appeal 
 to the governor, and finally to the king. 
 
 They have no regular police, but the king has generally a number 
 of chiefs in attendance, who, with the assistance of their own de- 
 pendants, execute his orders. The governors and high chiefs have 
 the same, and employ them in a similar manner when occasion 
 requires. 
 
 The house or front yard of the king or governor is the usual 
 court of justice, and it is sometimes quite a court of equity. Judg- 
 ment is seldom given till both parties are heard face to face. 
 
 ORDEALS FOR TRYING ACCUSED. 
 
 They have several ordeals for trying those accused of different 
 crimes. One of the most singular is the wai haruru, shaking water. 
 A large calabash or wooden dish of water is placed in the midst 
 of a circle, on one side of which the accused party is seated. A 
 prayer is offered by the priest; and the suspected individuals are 
 required, one by one, to hold both hands, with the fingers spread out, 
 over, the dish, while the priest or the chief looks steadfastly at the 
 face of the water; and it is said, that when the person, who has 
 committed the crime, spreads his hands over the vessel, the water 
 trembles. Probably conscious guilt, and superstitious dread, may 
 make the hands of the culprit shake, and occasion the tremulous 
 appearance of the water in which they are reflected. 
 
 No unnecessary delays take place in the redress of grievances, or 
 the administration of justice. 
 
 I was once sitting with Karaimoku, when a poor woman came 
 to complain of the chief of her district, who, she said, had kept 
 the water running through his own plantation for several days, while 
 the potatoes and taro in her garden were parched up with drought. 
 
 After making a few inquiries, he called Kaiakoiri, one of his 
 favourite chiefs, and said, "Go with this woman; and, if the chief 
 has kept back the water, open the channels, and let it flow over 
 her field immediately." The chief girded up his maro, and, fol- 
 lowed by the woman, set off for the district in which she resided.
 
 321 
 
 NO LAWYERS. 
 
 No lawyers are employed to conduct their public trials; every 
 man advocates Ms own cause, usually sitting cross-legged before 
 the judge; and I have often been pleased with the address the differ- 
 ent parties have displayed in exhibiting or enforcing their respective 
 claims. 
 
 CHIEFS ARE CONSULTED BY KING. 
 
 There is no national council, neither have the people any voice 
 in the proceedings of government. But the king, though accountable 
 to no one for the measures he adopts, seldom acts, in any affair of im- 
 portance, without the advice of his confidential chiefs. These 
 counsellors are in no degree responsible for the advice they give, nor 
 liable to suffer from any conduct the king may pursue. He, however, 
 always pays a deference to their opinion, and seldom acts in opposi- 
 tion to their wishes. 
 
 In all matters of importance, it is customary to summon the 
 governors and principal chiefs of the several islands to a national 
 council, when the subject is freely discussed. Their deliberations 
 are generally conducted with great privacy, and seldom known among 
 the people till finally arranged, when they are promulgated through- 
 out the island by the king's heralds or messengers. 
 
 The king sends his orders directly to the governor of the island, 
 or principal chief of the district. Formerly a courier bore a verbal 
 message; now he carries a written despatch. 
 
 The office of messenger, as well as that of herald, is hereditary, and 
 considered honourable, as those who sustain it must necessarily have 
 possessed the confidence of the king and chiefs. 
 
 PUBLIC ASSEMBLIES ON NATIONAL AFFAIRS. 
 
 Occasionally they hold public meetings for discussing national 
 affairs. These are interesting assemblies, particularly when hostile 
 chiefs, or the agents of opposite parties, meet; national orators, and 
 counsellors, whose office is also hereditary, are then employed. In 
 general, however, these meetings are convened only for the purpose 
 of promulgating what has been previously arranged between the 
 king and chiefs. 
 
 STATUS OF HAWAIIAN SYSTEM OF GOVEKNM BNT. 
 
 The Hawaiian system of government — whether derived from the 
 country whence the first settlers emigrated, or established by warlike 
 chieftains in a subsequent period of theil history, as an expedient 
 to secure conquests, to command the services of tlnir tenants on 
 occasions of war, and to perpetuate the influence which military 
 
 21
 
 322 
 
 prowess or success in the first instance had given them, exhibits, in its 
 decided monarchical character, the hereditary descent of rank and 
 office, and other distinguishing features, considerable advancement 
 from a state of barbarism, and warrants the conclusion that they 
 have been an organized community for many generations. 
 
 But whatever antiquity their system may possess, they have 
 made but little progress in the art of good government. 
 
 PEOPLE CONSIDERED AS PROPERTY OP CHIEFS. 
 
 The well-being of the subject seems to have been but rarely 
 regarded by the rulers, who appear to have considered the lower 
 orders in general as a kind of property, to be employed only in 
 promoting the interests of their superiors; and the ardent love of 
 wealth, which an acquaintance with the productions of foreign 
 countries has excited in most of the chiefs, has not improved the 
 condition of the people. 
 
 PEOPLE ABJECTLY SUBJECT TO CHIEFS. 
 
 Industry receives no encouragement; and even those whom natural 
 energy of character would induce to cultivate a larger portion of 
 land than was absolutely necessary for their bare subsistence, are 
 deterred from the attempt by the apprehension of thereby exposing 
 themselves to the rapacity of avaricious or necessitous chiefs. 
 
 Nothing can be more detrimental to the true interest of the chiefs, 
 and the civilization and happiness of the people, than the abject 
 dependence of the latter, the uncertain tenure of lands, the insecurity 
 of personal property, the exactions of the chiefs, and the restrictions 
 on trade with the shipping, which they impose. 
 
 As the nation in general becomes enlightened, it is to be pre- 
 sumed that the policy of the rulers will be more liberal, and the 
 general prosperity of the islands proportionably advanced. 
 
 RETURN OF THURSTON AND OTHERS TO HONOLULU. 
 
 On the 31st, Mr. Thurston preached twice at Towaihae to attentive 
 congregations, and with the labours of the day, closed a month of 
 toil and interest greater than any he had before spent in the Sand- 
 wich Islands. In the retrospect, he could not but hope some good 
 would result to the people. 
 
 Early on the 1st of September, Mr. Thurston left Towaihae in a 
 canoe furnished by Mr. Young, and at eight in the forenoon reached 
 the place where the Nio was lying at anchor, on board of which he 
 joined Messrs. Goodrich and Bishop. Soon after four in the after- 
 noon they weighed anchor and made sail. When they left Hawaii, 
 the master intended touching at Maui; but contrary winds obliged
 
 323 
 
 them to shape their course towards Oahu, ■where they safely arrived 
 late in the evening of the 3d, and had the satisfaction of finding the 
 mission family in the enjoyment of comfortable health. 
 
 The time which I spent at Kairua was chiefly occupied in con- 
 versation with the governor on the history and traditions of the 
 island; the advantages of instruction; and the blessings which the 
 general adoption of Christianity w T ould confer on the people. On 
 this latter subject, the governor uniformly expressed his conviction 
 of its utility; and said, he had therefore sent a messenger round 
 among the people, requesting them to renounce their former evil 
 practices, and keep the Sabbath according to the direction of the 
 word of God. 
 
 HEIAU OF AHUENA CONVERTED INTO A FORT. 
 
 Adjacent to the governor's house stand the ruins of Ahuena, an 
 ancient heiau, where the war-god was often kept, and human 
 sacrifices offered. Since the abolition of idolatry, the governor has 
 converted it into a fort, has widened the stone wall next the sea, 
 and placed upon it a number of cannon. 
 
 The idols are all destroyed, excepting three, which are planted on 
 the wall, one at each end, and the other in the centre, where they 
 stand like sentinels amidst the guns, as if designed by their frightful 
 appearance to terrify an enemy. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF HAWAIIAN IDOLS. 
 
 On the 29th, I visited the ruins, and took a sketch of one of the 
 idols, which stood sixteen feet above the wall, was upwards of 
 three feet in breadth, and had been carved out of a single tree. 
 
 The above may be considered as a tolerable specimen of the 
 greater part of Hawaiian idols. The head has generally a most 
 horrid appearance, the month being large and usually extended 
 wide, exhibiting a row of large teeth, resembling in no small decree 
 the cogs in the wheel of an engine, and adapted to excite terror 
 rather than inspire confidence in the beholder. Some of their idols 
 were of stone, and many were constructed with a kind of wicker- 
 work covered with red feathers. 
 
 NATIVE TRADITIONS OF ORIGIN OF HAWAIIAN'S. 
 
 In the evening our conversation at the governor's turned OH tin- 
 origin of the people of Hawaii, and the other islands of the Pacific, 
 a topic which often engaged our attention, and respecting which, in 
 the various inquiries we made, we often had occasion to regrel that 
 the traditions of the natives furnished such scanty Information, on a 
 subject so interesting and important. This portion, however, though
 
 324 
 
 small, and surrounded by an incredible mass of fiction, is still worth 
 preserving. 
 
 The general opinions entertained by the natives themselves, 
 relative to their origin, are, either that the first inhabitants were 
 created on the islands, descended from the gods, by whom they were 
 first inhabited; or, that they came from a country which they called 
 Tahiti. 
 
 Many, as was the case with the chiefs at Maui, and also the 
 governor at this place suppose that, according to the accounts of the 
 priests of Tane, Tanaroa, and other gods, the first man was made by 
 Haumea, a female deity. We have not, however, met with any who 
 pretend to know of what material he was formed. * 
 
 Others, again, suppose the chiefs to have descended from Akea, 
 who appears to have been the connecting link between the gods and 
 the men; but this supposes the chiefs and the common people to have 
 been derived from different sources. 
 
 The accounts they have of their ancestors having arrived in a 
 canoe from Tahiti, are far more general and popular among the 
 people. 
 
 When some of our party were at Towaihae, the subject was 
 discussed. Mr. Young said, among the many traditionary accounts 
 of the origin of the island and its inhabitants, one was, that in 
 former times, when there was nothing but sea, an immense bird 
 settled on the water, and laid an egg, which soon bursting produced 
 the island of Hawaii. Shortly after this, a man and woman, with 
 a hog, a dog, and a pair of fowls, arrived in a canoe from the Society 
 Islands, took up their abode on the eastern shores, and were the 
 progenitors of the present inhabitants. 
 
 Another account prevalent among the natives of Oahu, states, 
 that a number of persons arrived in a canoe from Tahiti, and 
 perceiving the Sandwich Islands were fertile, and inhabited only by 
 gods or spirits, took up their abode on one of them, having asked 
 permission of the gods, and presented an offering, which rendered 
 them propitious to their settlement. 
 
 HAWAIIANS PROBABLY CAME FROM TAHITI. 
 
 Though these accounts do not prove that the Sandwich Islanders 
 came originally from the Georgian Islands, they afford a strong 
 presumption in favour of such an opinion. 
 
 Tahiti is the name of the principal island in the group, called 
 by Captain Cook the Georgian Islands. It is the Otaheite of Cook; 
 the Taiti of Bougainville; and the Taheitee, or Tahitee, of Forster. 
 
 In the language of the Georgian and Society Islands, the word 
 tahiti also signifies to pull up or take out of the ground, as herbs 
 or trees are taken up with a view to transplantation, and to select
 
 325 
 
 or extract passages from a book or language, to be translated into 
 another. Hence a book of scripture extracts is called, words tahitihea. 
 
 HAWAIIAN MEANING OP "TAHITI." 
 
 In the language of the Sandwich Islands, we do not know that the 
 word is ever used in the latter sense, and very rarely in the former. 
 
 An Idol on the Wall of a Hclau at Kallua. which 
 was Converted Into a Fort by Governor Kuaklnl. 
 
 It is generally employed to denote any foreign country, and seema 
 equivalent to the English word abroad, as applied to parte beyond 
 the sea. But though this is the signification of the word among 
 the Sandwich Islanders al the presenl time, it is probable timt it
 
 326 
 
 was primarily used to designate the whole of the southern group, 
 or the principal island among them; and it may lead us to infer, 
 either that Tahiti, and the Georgian and Society Islands, were all 
 the foreign countries the Ifawaiians were acquainted with, or that 
 they considered the Marquesian Islands contiguous, and politically 
 connected with them, and that these being the only foreign countries 
 originally known to them, they have applied the term to every 
 other part with which they have subsequently become acquainted. 
 
 DIFFERENCES BETWEEN INHABITANTS OF ISLANDS OF PACIFIC. 
 
 It is an opinion generally received, that the various tribes 
 inhabiting the islands of the Pacific, have an Asiatic, and probably 
 a Malayan origin. Applied to a great part of them, this opinion 
 is supported by a variety of facts; but with respect to those groups 
 with which we are acquainted, additional evidence appears necessary 
 to confirm such a conclusion. 
 
 The natives of the eastern part of New Holland, and the inter- 
 tropical islands within thirty degrees east, including New Cale- 
 donia, the New Hebrides, and the Figiis, appear to be one nation, 
 and in all probability came originally from the Asiatic islands, to 
 the northward, as their skin is black, and their hair woolly or 
 crisped, like the inhabitants of the mountainous parts of several of 
 the Asiatic islands. 
 
 But the inhabitants of all the islands to the east of the Figiis, 
 including the Friendly Islands and New Zealand, though they have 
 many characteristics in common with these, have a number essen- 
 tially distinct. 
 
 The natives of Chatham Island and New Zealand, in the south; 
 the Sandwich Islands, in the north; the Friendly Islands, in the 
 west; and all the intermediate islands, as far as Easter Island, 
 in the east, are one people. Their mythology, traditions, manners 
 and customs, language, and physical appearance, in their main 
 features, are, so far as we have had an opportunity of becoming 
 acquainted with them, identically the same, yet differing in many 
 respects from those of the islands to the westward of Tongatabu. 
 
 The dress of the Figiians, &c, is not the same as that of the 
 natives of New Zealand, Tahiti, and the other islands; they do not 
 appear to wear the cloak or the tiputa. 
 
 In war they throw long spears to a considerable distance, and 
 use the bow and arrow, which the others only employ in their 
 amusements. 
 
 The difference in their physical character is greater; the dark 
 complexion, woolly hair, and slender make, indicate them to be a 
 different people.
 
 327 
 
 RESEMBLANCE OF PACIFIC ISLANDERS TO AMERICAN INDIANS. 
 
 Various points of resemblance might be shewn between the abori- 
 gines of America and the natives of the eastern islands of the 
 Pacific, in their modes of war, instruments, gymnastic games, rafts 
 or canoes, treatment of their children, dressing their hair, feather 
 head-dresses of the chiefs, girdles, and particularly the tiputa of 
 the latter, which, in shape and use, exactly resembles the poncho 
 of the Peruvians, but it would lead too far at this time. 
 
 LONG VOYAGES IN CANOES. 
 
 "We have every reason to believe the canoes of the natives were 
 larger formerly than they are now, and yet we have known them 
 make several long voyages, being sometimes a fortnight or three 
 weeks at sea. 
 
 In the year 1821, a large canoe arrived at Maurua from Rurutu, 
 and as it passed to the north of Huahine, must have sailed 500 
 miles, even supposing it had made a direct course. 
 
 Since that time, a boat from Tahiti reached one of the islands 
 near Mangea, almost 600 miles, in a direct course, but x )r °hably not 
 half the distance actually sailed by the natives in the boat. 
 
 Canoes are frequently arriving at Tahiti from some of the eastern 
 islands. Two came recently from Hao, an island of which the 
 Tahitians were before entirely ignorant. 
 
 INFLUENCE OF TRADE WINDS ON EMIGRATION. 
 
 Several canoes passing among the islands, have been blown out 
 to sea, and have never returned; and the native teachers sent from 
 the Society Islands to the various islands lying between them and 
 the Friendly Islands, have met among them several of their country- 
 men. These voyages have always been in a westerly direction. 
 We never heard of one to the eastward. 
 
 The trade-winds blowing within the tropics from the eastward 
 more than three-fourths of the year, and their canoes not being 
 adapted to sail close to the wind, render it difficult for the natives 
 of the leeward islands to pass to windward. They never attempt it, 
 except when the wind is somewhat westerly, which is but seldom, 
 while it often blows steadily from the east for weeks together. 
 
 These circumstances seem to favour the conjecture that the in- 
 habitants of the islands west of Tongatabu have an Asiatic origin 
 entirely; but that the natives of the eastern islands may be a 
 mixed race, who have emigrated from the American continent, and 
 
 from the Asiatic islands; that the proximity of the Friendly and 
 Figii islands may have given both a variety of WOT&B and usages iu 
 common, while the people to which the former belong ha\e re- 
 mained in many respects distinct.
 
 328 
 
 The nation inhabiting the eastern parts of the Pacific has spread 
 itself over an immense tract of ocean, extending upwards of seventy 
 degrees north and south from New Zealand and Chatham Island to 
 the Sandwich group, and between sixty and seventy degrees east 
 and west from Tongatabu to Easter Island. This last is not farther 
 from the islands adjacent to the continent than some of these groups 
 are from any other inhabited island. 
 
 The Sandwich Islands are above twenty degrees from the Mar- 
 quesas, and thirty-six from Tahiti, yet inhabited by the same race 
 of people. 
 
 ADVANCE OF WRITING AMONG HAWAIIAN'S. 
 
 The day after the conversation took place which led to the above 
 remarks, the pilot-boat arrived at Kairua, on her way to Maui. On 
 first coming to anchor, Kahiori, the master, said he should sail in 
 the evening; but when I told him I would go with him if he would 
 wait till the Sabbath was over, he cheerfully agreed to do so. By 
 him the governor received a note on business, written by Kamakau, 
 the interesting chief of Kaavaroa, which, after he had read it, he 
 shewed me, saying, he admired the diligence and perseverance of 
 Kamakau, who, with but little instruction, had learned to write very 
 well. "This letter writing," added the governor, "is a very good 
 thing." 
 
 It also appears to them a most surprising art, which, till they saw 
 what had been acquired by the natives of the southern islands, they 
 imagined could never be attained by persons in their circumstances. 
 
 Supposing it beyond the powers of man to invent the plan of com- 
 municating words by marks on paper, they have sometimes asked 
 us, if, in the first instance, the knowledge of it were not com- 
 municated to mankind by God himself. 
 
 HAWAIIAN MARRIAGE CUSTOMS. 
 
 In the governor's family is an interesting girl, who is called his 
 daughter, and has been spoken of as the future consort of the young 
 prince Kauikeouli, instead of Nahienaena his sister. 
 
 Marriage contracts in the Sandwich Islands are usually concluded 
 by the parents or relations of both parties, or by the man and the 
 parents or friends of the woman. 
 
 We are not aware that the parents of the woman receive any 
 thing from the husband, or give any dowry with the wife. Their 
 ceremonies on the occasion are very few, and chiefly consist in the 
 bridegroom's casting a piece of tapa or native cloth over the bride, 
 in the presence of her parents or relations. Feasting is general, 
 and the friends of both parties contribute towards furnishing the 
 entertainment.
 
 329 
 
 The marriage tie is loose, and the husband can dismiss his wife 
 on any occasion. 
 
 MORE MALES THAN FEMALES DUE TO INFANTICIDE. 
 
 The number of males is much greater than that of females in 
 all the islands, in consequence of the girls being more frequently 
 destroyed in infancy, as less useful than the males for purposes of 
 war, fishing, &c. "We do not know the exact proportion here; but 
 in the Society Islands, in all our early schools, the proportion of 
 girls to boys was as three to four, or four to five, though since the 
 abolition of infanticide the numbers are equal. 
 
 Polygamy is allowed among all ranks, but practised only by the 
 chiefs, whose means enable them to maintain a plurality of wives. 
 
 Among the higher ranks, marriage seems to be conducted on prin- 
 ciples of political expediency, with a view to strengthen alliances 
 and family influence; and among the reigning family, brothers and 
 sisters marry. 
 
 INTERMARRIAGE OF RELATIVES. 
 
 This custom, so revolting to every idea of moral propriety, that 
 the mind is shocked at the thought of its existence, appears to have 
 been long in use; and very recently a marriage was proposed at 
 Maui, between the young prince and princess, both children of the 
 same parents; a council of chiefs was held on the subject, and all 
 were favourable. 
 
 The opinion of the missionaries there was asked. The chiefs 
 assigned as a reason, that being the highest chiefs in the islands, 
 they could not marry any others who were their equals, and ought 
 not to form alliances with inferiors, as it was desirable that the 
 supreme rank they held should descend to their posterity. 
 
 They were told that such marriages were forbidden in the word 
 of God, were held in abhorence by all civilized and Christian nations, 
 and had seldom been known to leave any descendants to wear the 
 honour or sustain the rank the contracting parties desired thus to 
 perpetuate. 
 
 MARRIAGE OF RELATIVES CHILDLESS. 
 
 Several of the chiefs present made no profession of Christianity, 
 and consequently were uninfluenced by some of the remarks, but the 
 concluding observation appeared of importance to them all. 
 
 They said they thought there was some truth in it; thai the late 
 king Tamehameha, father of Rihoriho, had several wives, who were 
 his near relations, and even his daughter-in-law, y.t left no children, 
 except those of whom Keopuoluni was the mother, and who, though u 
 sacred chief of higher rank than her husband, WM the grand-
 
 330 
 
 daughter of a princess of another island, and distantly connected 
 with his family, and that the same was the case with Rihoriho. 
 
 The marriage was postponed; and it appears the opinion of the 
 chiefs in general, that it ought not to take place. 
 
 The individuals themselves are entirely passive in the affair; and 
 we view it as a happy circumstance, subversive of an evil custom, 
 and tending to produce moral feelings highly advantageous, and 
 illustrative of the collateral advantages arising from the influence 
 of Christian missionaries. 
 
 FOREIGNERS IN HAWAII PRIOR TO CAPTAIN COOK. 
 
 An interesting conversation took place this evening, relative to 
 the first visits the islanders received from foreigners. 
 
 The possession of pieces of iron, particularly one supposed to be 
 the point of a broad sword, by the natives of Tauai, (Atooi,) when 
 discovered by Captain Cook, induced some of his companions to 
 think they were not the first European visitors to the islands. W« 
 have endeavoured to ascertain, by inquiring of the most intelligent 
 of the natives, whether or no this was the fact. 
 
 They have three accounts of foreigners arriving at Hawaii prior 
 to Captain Cook. The first was the priest, Paao, who landed at 
 Kohala, and to whom the priests of that neighbourhood traced their 
 genealogy until very recently. Of this priest some account is given 
 in a preceding chapter. 
 
 WHITE MEN ON HAWAII. 
 
 The second account states, that during the lifetime of Opiri, the 
 son, of Paao, a number of foreigners (white men) arrived at Hawaii, 
 landed somewhere in the south-west part of the island, and repaired 
 to the mountains, where they took up their abode. The natives 
 regarded them w T ith a superstitious curiosity and dread, and knew 
 not whether to consider them as gods or men. 
 
 Opiri was sent for by the king of that part of the island where 
 they were residing, and consulted as to the conduct to be observed 
 towards them. 
 
 According to his advice, a large present of provisions was cooked 
 and carried to them. Opiri led the procession, accompanied by 
 several men, each carrying a bamboo cane, with a piece of white 
 native cloth tied to the end of it. 
 
 "When the strangers saw them approaching their retreat, they came 
 out to meet them. The natives placed the baked pigs and potatoes, 
 &c. on the grass, fixed their white banners in the ground, and then 
 retreated a few paces. The foreigners approached. Opiri addressed 
 them. They answered, received the presents, and afterwards con- 
 versed with the people through the medium of Opiri. The facility
 
 331 
 
 with which, they could communicate their thoughts by means of Opiri, 
 the governor said, was attributed to the supposed influence of Opiri 
 with his gods. 
 
 The foreigners they imagined were supernatural beings, and aa 
 such were treated with every possible mark of respect. 
 
 After remaining some time on the island, they returned to their 
 own country. 
 
 No account is preserved of the kind of vessel in which they 
 arrived or departed. 
 
 The name of the principal person among them was Manahini; 
 and it is a singular fact, that in the Marquesian, Society, and 
 Sandwich Islands, the term manahini is still employed to designate 
 a stranger, visitor, or guest. 
 
 FOREIGNERS AT KEALAKEKUA. 
 
 The third account is much more recent and precise, though the 
 period at which it took place is uncertain. 
 
 It states that a number of years after the departure of Mana- 
 hini-ma, (Manahini and his party,) in the reign of Kahoukapu, 
 king at Kaavaroa, seven foreigners arrived at Kearake'kua bay, 
 the spot where Captain Cook subsequently landed. They came in a 
 painted boat, with an awning or canopy over the stern, but without 
 mast or sails. They were all dressed; the colour of their clothes 
 was white or yellow, and one of them wore a pahi, long knife, the 
 name by which they still call a sword, at his side, and had a feather 
 in his hat. The natives received them kindly. They married native 
 women, were made chiefs, proved themselves warriors, and ultimately 
 became very powerful in the island of Hawaii, which, it is said, 
 was for some time governed by them. 
 
 "EHUS," SUPPOSED DESCENDANTS OF FOREIGNERS. 
 
 There are in the Sandwich Islands a number of persons distin- 
 guished by a lighter colour in their skin, and corresponding brown 
 curly hair, called ehu, who are, by all the natives of the islands, 
 considered as the descendants of these foreigners, who acknowledge 
 themselves to be such, and esteem their origin by 00 means dis- 
 honourable. 
 
 OTHER TRADITIONS OF FOREIGN ARRIVALS, 
 
 Another party is said to have afterwards arrived at the same 
 place, but the accounts the natives give of their landing are aot 
 very distinct; and we feel undecided whether there were two distinct 
 parties, or only two different accounts of the sum.' event. 
 
 In addition to these, they have a tradition of some white man, 
 called Kea, who lived wild in the mountains, occasionally coming
 
 332 
 
 down to the streams, or towards the sea-shore, in an evening, much 
 to the terror of the natives, particularly the females. 
 
 We have heard from one of the chiefs of Hawaii, that there is a 
 tradition, of a ship having touched at the island of Maui prior to 
 the arrival of Captain Cook; but, with the exception of this chief, 
 all the natives we have conversed with on the subject, and we have 
 conversed with many, declare that they had no idea of a ship 
 before Captain Cook was seen off Tauai. The ship they called 
 motu, an island, probably supposing it was an island, with all its 
 inhabitants. 
 
 (Marvellous reports respecting the ships and people were circulated 
 through the islands, between the first discovery of Tauai and the 
 return of the vessels from the N. W. coast of America. Aa mo, 
 (skin of lizard's egg,) a native of Tauai, who was on board one 
 of the ships, procured a piece of canvas, about a yard and a half 
 long, which Tiha, king of Tauai, sent as a present to Poriorani, 
 king of Oahu. He gave it to his queen Opuhani, by whom it was 
 worn on the most conspicuous part of her dress in a public proces- 
 sion, and attracted more attention than any thing else. The piece 
 of cloth was called Aa mo, after the man who had the honour of 
 bringing it from the ships. 
 
 The most unaccountable circumstance connected with the priest 
 Paao, is his arriving alone, though he might be the only survivor 
 of his party. If such a person ever did arrive, we should think he 
 was a Eoman Catholic priest, and that reported gods an image and 
 a crucifix. 
 
 The different parties that subsequently arrived were probably, if 
 any inference may be drawn from the accounts of the natives, 
 survivors of the crew of some Spanish ship wrecked in the neigh- 
 bourhood, perhaps on the numerous reefs to the north-west; or 
 they might have been culprits committed by their countrymen to 
 the mercy of the waves. 
 
 The circumstance of the first party leaving the island in the 
 same boat in which they arrived, would lead us to suppose they 
 had been wrecked, and had escaped in their boat, or had con- 
 structed a bark out of the wreck of their ship, as has subse- 
 quently been the case with two vessels wrecked in the vicinity of 
 these islands. 
 
 It is possible that one or other of the islands might have been 
 seen by some Spanish ship passing between Acapulco and Manila; 
 but it is not probable that they were ever visited by any of these 
 ships. 
 
 An event so interesting to the people would not have been left out 
 of their traditions, which contain many things much less important; 
 and, had the Spaniards discovered them, however jealous they might
 
 333 
 
 be of such a discovery becoming known to other nations, that jealousy 
 would not have prevented their availing themselves of the facilities 
 which the islands afforded for refitting or recruiting their vessels, 
 which must frequently have been most desirable during the period 
 their ships were accustomed to traverse these seas. 
 
 These accounts, but particularly the latter, are generally known, 
 and have been related by different persons at distant places. All 
 agree respecting the boat, clothing, sword, &c. of the party who 
 arrived at Kearake'kua. 
 
 Among others, the late king Rihoriho gave us a detailed account 
 of their landing, &c. only a short time before he embarked for 
 England. We feel but little doubt of the fact; but the country 
 whence they came, the place whither they were bound, the occasion 
 of their visit, and a variety of interesting particulars connected 
 therewith, will probably remain undiscovered. 
 
 PREACHING ABOUT NOAH AND THE FLOOD. 
 
 The 31st was the Sabbath. The stillness of every thing around, 
 the decent apparel of those who were seen passing and repassing, 
 together with the numbers of canoes all drawn up on the beach, 
 under the shade of the cocoa-nut or kou trees, combined to mark the 
 return of the la tabu, or sacred day. 
 
 As unusual number attended family prayers at the governor's 
 house in the morning; and at half-past ten the bell was rung for 
 public worship. About 800 people assembled under the ranai, and 
 I preached to them from Heb. xi. 7. And after a succinct account 
 of the deluge, I endeavoured to exhibit the advantages of faith, 
 and the consequences of wickedness and unbelief, as illustrated in 
 the salvation of Noah, and the destruction of the rest of mankind. 
 
 HAWAIIAN TRADITION OP THE FLOOD. 
 
 After the conclusion of the service, several persons present re- 
 quested me to remain till they had made some inquiries respecting 
 the deluge, Noah, &c. 
 
 They said they were informed by their fathers, that all the land 
 had once been overflowed by the sea, except a small peak on tho 
 top of Mouna-Kea, where two human beings were preserved from 
 the destruction that overtook the rest, but they said they had never 
 
 before heard of a ship, or of Noah, having always 1 o accustomed 
 
 to call it the kai a Kahinarii, (sea of Kahinarii.) After conversing 
 with them some time, I returned to the governor's. 
 
 DISCUSSION WITH GOVERNOR CONCERNING THE FLOOD. 
 
 The afternoon was principally employed i" conversation with him 
 on the flood, and the repeopling of the earth i>y the descendants 
 
 of Noah.
 
 334 
 
 The governor seemed to doubt whether it were possible that the 
 Hawaiians could be the descendants of Noah; but said, he thought 
 their progenitors must have been created on the islands. 
 
 I told him the account in the bible had every evidence that could 
 be wished to support it; referred him to his own traditions, not only 
 of Hawaii's having been peopled by persons who came in canoes 
 from a foreign country, but of their having in their turn visited 
 other islands, and planted colonies, as in the days of Kamapiikai; 
 the superiority of their war canoes in former days; the resemblance 
 in manners, customs, traditions, and language, between themselves 
 and other islanders in the Pacific, many thousand miles distant. 
 
 The longevity of mankind in the days of Noah, also surprised 
 him. Comparing it with the period of human life at the present 
 time, he said, "By and by men will not live more than forty years." 
 
 DISCUSSION WITH KUAKINI CONCERNING THE FLOOD. 
 
 At half-past four in the afternoon the bell rang again, and the 
 people collected in numbers about equal to those who attended in the 
 morning. I preached to them from the words, "Be not weary in 
 well-doing, for in due season ye shall reap, if ye faint not." Their 
 attention was encouraging. 
 
 Numbers thronged the governor 's house at evening worship. The 
 conversation afterwards turned upon the identity of the body at the 
 resurrection, and the reward of the righteous in heaven. The governor 
 asked if people would know each other in heaven; and when answered 
 in the affirmative, said, he thought Christian relations would be 
 very happy when they met there. 
 
 Some who were present asked, "If there is no eating and drinking, 
 or wearing of clothes, in heaven, wherein does its goodness consist?" 
 This was a natural question for a Hawaiian to ask, who never had 
 an idea of happiness except in the gratification of his natural appe- 
 tites and feelings. 
 
 In answer to the question, they were, however, informed, that the 
 joys of heaven were intellectual and spiritual, and would infinitely 
 exceed, both in their nature and duration, every earthly enjoyment. 
 
 At a late hour I took leave of the governor and his family, thank- 
 ing him, at the same time, for the hospitable entertainment we had 
 received, and the great facilities he had afforded for accomplishing 
 the objects of our visit. 
 
 TRIP FROM KAILUA TO KAWAIHAE AND LAHAINA. ' 
 
 About three o'clock in the morning, being awoke by the shouts of 
 the men who were heaving up the anchor of the pilot-boat, I repaired 
 on board, and immediately afterwards we sailed with a gentle breeze 
 blowing from the land. The wind was light and baffling, and it was
 
 335 
 
 noon before we reached Towaihae, where I learned with disappoint- 
 ment that the Nio had sailed to Oahu. On landing, I was welcomed 
 by Mr. Young, with whom I remained till the pilot-boat was ready 
 to sail for Lahaina. 
 
 Late in the evening of the 2nd of September, after preaching to 
 the people of the place at Mr. Young's house, I went again on board 
 the pilot-boat, but found her so full of sandal wood, that there was 
 not room for any person below, while the decks were crowded with 
 natives. The weather was unfavourable for getting under way till 
 nearly daylight; and every person on board was completely drenched 
 by the heavy rain that fell during the night. 
 
 During the forenoon of the 3d, we drifted slowly to the north- 
 ward, and about noon took in 800 dried fish, after which we made 
 sail for Maui. The weather was warm, the wind light; and all on 
 board being obliged to keep on deck, without any skreen or shade 
 from the scorching rays of a vertical sun, the situation was very 
 uncomfortable. At three p. m. we took the channel breeze, which 
 soon wafted us across to the S. E. part of Maui. 
 
 As the shores of Hawaii receded from my view, a variety of 
 reflections insensibly arose in my mind. The tour which, in the 
 society of my companions, I had made, had been replete with in- 
 terest. The varied and sublime phenomena of nature had elevated 
 our conceptions of "nature's God;" the manners and customs of the 
 inhabitants had increased our interest in their welfare; while their 
 superstition, moral degradation, ignorance, and vice, had called forth 
 our sincerest commiseration. 
 
 We had made known the nature and consequences of sin; spoken 
 of the love of God; and had exhibited the Lord Jesus Christ as the 
 only Saviour, the multitudes who had never before heard his name, 
 or been directed to worship the holy and living God, and who would 
 probably never hear these truths again. We cherish the hope, that, 
 under the divine blessing, lasting good will result, even from this 
 transient visit. 
 
 Many of the individuals we have met on these occasions, we shall 
 in all probability meet no more till the morning of tin' resurrei fcion. 
 May we meet them then on the right hand of the Son of God! 
 
 NATIVES SWIM ASHORE AT LAHAINA. 
 
 At sun-set we arrived off Molokai, but were shortly utter becalmed. 
 The current, however, was in our favour through the night, and at 
 
 daylight on the 4th we found ourselves off tl asl end oi the district 
 
 of Lahaina, and about a mile distant from the shore. 
 
 Many of the natives jumped into the tea, and swam to the beach, 
 holding their clothes above their heads with one hand, and swim- 
 ming with the other.
 
 336 
 
 About ten a. m. a canoe came alongside, in which I went on shore, 
 where I was welcomed by the mission family, and by Mr. Bingham, 
 who was there on a visit. Soon after I had landed, Karaimoku 
 arrived from Oahu, by whom I learned that Mrs. Ellis, though very 
 ill, was better than she had been at some periods since my departure. 
 
 CHIEFS PRAY FOR RECOVERY OF KEOPUOLANI. 
 
 I waited on Keopuolani, the king's mother, whom I found ill; 
 Karaimoku, Kaahumanu, Kalakua, and several other chiefs, were 
 reclining around her, weeping. After some time, Karaimoku pro- 
 posed that they should unitedly pray for her recovery, and his 
 proposal was acceded to. 
 
 At four p. m. a corpse was brought to the place of worship, and, 
 previously to its being interred, I gave an exhortation to a multitude 
 of people. 
 
 Towards evening, I visited the governor of the island, and also the 
 king, who was then at Maui. The subsequent voyage of the latter to 
 Great Britain, accompanied by his queen, and the melancholy event 
 which terminated their lives while in London, excited considerable 
 interest, and will probably be considered sufficient apology for a 
 short account of them, although the event took place after my visit 
 to Maui at this time. 
 
 BIOGRAPHY OF KAMEHAMEHA II. 
 
 The late king of the Sandwich Islands was the son of Tameha- 
 meha, former king, and Keopuolani, daughter of Kauikeouli and 
 Kakuiapoiwa. He was born in the eastern part of Hawaii, in the 
 year 1795 or 1796. 
 
 The name by which he was generally known was Rihoriho, which 
 was only a contraction of Kalaninuirihoriho, literally, the heavens 
 great black — from Ka lani, the heavens, nui, great, and rihoriho, 
 applied to any thing burnt to blackness. 
 
 On public occasions, he was sometimes called Tamehameha, after 
 his father, though names are not always hereditary. Besides these, 
 he had a variety of other names, the most common of which was 
 Iolani. The word lani, heaven or sky, formed a component part 
 in the name of most chiefs of distinction. The following is a fac- 
 simile of the official signature of the late king. 
 
 SIGNATURE OF KAMEHAMEHA II. 
 
 (^^^^e^^l^^^^^
 
 337 
 
 The early habits of Bihoriho did not warrant any great expecta- 
 tions. His natural disposition was frank, and humane. The natives 
 always spoke of him as good-natured, except when he was under the 
 influence of ardent spirits; his manners were perfectly free, at the 
 same time dignified, and always agreeable to those who were about 
 him. 
 
 His mind was naturally inquisitive. The questions he usually 
 presented to foreigners were by no means trifling; and his memory 
 wa3 retentive. 
 
 KAMEHAMEHA II A WELL-IXFORMED MAX. 
 
 His general knowledge of the world was much greater than could 
 have been expected. I have heard him entertain a party of chiefs 
 for hours together, with accounts of different parts of the earth, 
 describing the extensive lakes, the mountains, and mines of North 
 and South America; the elephants and inhabitants of India; the 
 houses, manufactures, &c. of England, with no small accuracy, con- 
 sidering he had never seen them. 
 
 He had a great thirst for knowledge, and was diligent in his 
 studies. I recollect his remarking one day, when he opened his 
 writing desk, that he expected more advantage from that desk than 
 from a fine brig belonging to him, lying at anchor opposite the house 
 in which we were sitting. 
 
 KAMEHAMEHA II A STUDIOUS MAN. 
 
 Mr. Bingham and myself were his daily teachers, and have often 
 been surprised at his unwearied perseverance. I have sat beside 
 him at his desk sometimes from nine or ten o'clock in the morning, 
 till nearly sun-set, during which period his pen or his book has not 
 been out of his hand more than three-quarters of an hour, while he 
 was at dinner. 
 
 We do not know that Christianity exerted any decisive influence 
 on his heart. He was willing to receive the missionaries on their 
 first arrival — availed himself of their knowledge to increase his own 
 — and, during the latter years of his life, was decidedly favourable 
 to their object; declared his conviction of the truth of Christianity; 
 attended public worship himself on the Sabbath, and recommended 
 the same to his people. 
 
 ANALYSIS OP CHARACTER OP KAMEHAMEHA II. 
 
 His moral character w r as not marked by that cruelty, rapacity, 
 and insensibility to the sufferings of the people, which frequently 
 distinguish the arbitrary chiefs of uncivilized nations. 
 
 He appears in general to have been kind; and, in several places on 
 our tour, the mothers shewed us their children, and told us, that 
 
 22
 
 338 
 
 when Kihoriho passed that way, he had kissed them, — a condescen- 
 sion they seemed to think much of, and which they will probably 
 remember to the end of their days. 
 
 But though generous in his disposition, and humane in his conduct 
 towards his subjects, he was addicted to intoxication; whether from 
 natural inclination, or the influence and example of others, is not 
 now to be determined; frequently, to my own knowledge, it has been 
 entirely from the latter. 
 
 MOTIVES FOR VISITING ENGLAND. 
 
 Had he in early life been privileged to associate with individuals 
 whose conduct and principles were favourable to virtue and religion, 
 there is every reason to suppose his moral character, with respect 
 at least to this vice, would have been as irreproachable as his mental 
 habits were commendable. But, alas for him! it was quite the reverse. 
 
 Though not distinguished by the ardour and strength of character 
 so conspicuous in his father, he possessed both decision and enter- 
 prise: the abolition of the national idolatry was a striking instance 
 of the former; and his voyage to England, of the latter. 
 
 The motives by which he was induced to undertake a voyage so 
 long and hazardous were highly commendable. They were, — a desire 
 to see, for himself, countries of which he had heard such various and 
 interesting accounts — a wish to have a personal interview with his 
 majesty the king of Great Britain, or the chief members of the 
 British government, for the purpose of confirming the cession of the 
 Sandwich Islands, and placing himself and his dominions under 
 British protection. 
 
 It was also his intention to make himself acquainted with tho 
 tenor and forms of administering justice in the courts of law — the 
 principles of commerce — and other subjects, important to the welfare 
 of the islands. 
 
 The melancholy death of the king and queen, which took place 
 shortly after their arrival in England, not only prevented the full 
 accomplishment of these desirable objects, but awakened very gen- 
 erally a degree of apprehension that the people of the islands, un- 
 acquainted with the true circumstances of their death, would be led 
 to suppose they had been neglected, unkindly treated, or even 
 poisoned in revenge of the death of Captain Cook, and that the 
 feelings of friendship with which they had been accustomed to regard 
 the people of England, might be followed by enmity or distrust. 
 
 TREATMENT OF KAMEHAMEHA II IN ENGLAND. 
 
 The fears of those who felt interested in the welfare of the Ha- 
 waiians, though natural, were groundless. The British government 
 had entertained the young ruler of the Sandwich Islands, his consort
 
 339 
 
 and attendants, with its accustomed hospitality; and when they 
 were attacked by diseases incident to a northern climate, but un- 
 known in their native islands, every attention that humanity could 
 suggest, and every alleviation that the first medical skill in London 
 could afford, was most promptly rendered. 
 
 After their decease, the highest respect was paid to their remains, 
 and, in honourable regard to the feelings of the nation who had 
 suffered this painful bereavement, a British frigate, under the 
 command of Captain Lord Byron, was appointed to convey to the 
 Sandwich Islands the bodies of the king and queen, that their sor- 
 rowing people might have the mournful satisfaction of depositing 
 their ashes among the tombs of their ancestors. 
 
 By the return of a highly esteemed missionary friend, Eev. C. S. 
 Stewart, I have learned that the Blonde reached the islands in the 
 month of May, 1825: the natives were in some degree prepared 
 for the arrival, by the intelligence of the death of their king and 
 queen, which they had received about two months before from 
 Valparaiso. 
 
 RETURN TO HAWAII OF BODIES OF KING AND QUEEN. 
 
 Shortly after the vessel having the remains of the king and queen 
 on board had anchored off Oahu, Boki, the principal chief, who had 
 accompanied the king to England, attended by those of his country- 
 men who had also returned, proceeded on shore: on landing, he was 
 met by his elder brother Kairaimoku, and other distinguished chiefs, 
 and after the first emotions of joy at meeting again, and sorrow on 
 account of the loss all had sustained, were somewhat abated, the 
 survivors and their friends walked in solemn and mournful procession 
 to the place of worship, where thanksgivings were presented to God, 
 for the merciful preservation of those who were thus privileged to 
 meet again, and supplications were made that the afflicting dispensa- 
 tion, which all so deeply felt, might exert a salutary influence ia 
 the minds of the surviving chiefs, and the sorrowing nation at large. 
 
 Karaimoku, the late prime minister, and present regent of the 
 islands, then arose, and said, "We have lost our king and queen, 
 they have died in a foreign land; we shall see them no more; it is 
 right that we should weep, but let us not entertain hard thoughts 
 of God. God has not done wrong. The evil is with us, let us bow 
 under his hand; let all amusement cease; let our daily avocations be 
 suspended; and let the nation, by prayer, and a cessation from 
 ordinary pursuits, humble itself before God fourteen days." 
 
 REPORT BY BOKI OF INTERVIEW WITH BRITISH KING, 
 
 Before the assembly separated, Boki stood up, :ind, in a brief out- 
 line of the voyage, narrated the most prominent events thai had
 
 340 
 
 transpired since his departure from the islands, calling their at- 
 tention in particular to the suitable and important advice he had 
 received from his majesty the king of Great Britain, in an audience 
 with which he was graciously favoured: viz. To return to his native 
 country, attend to general and religious instruction himself, and 
 endeavour to enlighten and reform the people. 
 
 The peculiar circumstances of the people at this time, the in- 
 creased satisfaction they had for some time felt in attending every 
 means of instruction within their reach, and the pleasing change in 
 favour of religion, which many had experienced, rendered this 
 recommendation, so congenial to their feelings, from a source so 
 distinguished, unusually acceptable. 
 
 A deep and favourable impression was produced on all present, a 
 new impulse was given to the means already employed for the in- 
 struction and improvement of the people, from which most advan- 
 tageous results have already appeared. 
 
 They were also made acquainted by Boki and his companions with 
 the kind reception, generous treatment, and marked attentions, 
 which the late king and queen and their suite had received while in 
 England. This intelligence, communicated by those whose testimony 
 would be received with the most entire credence, would at once 
 confirm the attachment and confidence they have so long felt towards 
 England. 
 
 No disturbance of the general tranquillity, nor change in the gov- 
 ernment of the islands, has resulted from this event. 
 
 SUCCESSION TO THRONE BY KAMEHAMEHA III. 
 
 Bihoriho left a younger brother, Kauikeouli, about ten years of age, 
 who is acknowledged by the chiefs as his successor. A regency will 
 govern during his minority, and the executive authority will probably 
 continue to be exercised by Karaimoku, and the other chiefs with 
 whom Bihoriho left it when he embarked for England. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF CHARACTER OF KAMEHAMARU, RIHORIHO'S QUEEN. 
 
 The queen, who accompanied him, and who died at the same time, 
 has left a fond mother and an affectionate people to lament her 
 loss: she was the daughter of Tamehameha and Kalakua, and was 
 born about the year 1797 or 1798, being two years younger than 
 Bihoriho, and about twenty-six years of age when she left the 
 islands. 
 
 Like all the persons of distinction, she had many names, but that 
 by which she was generally known, was Kamehamaru, (shade of 
 Kameha,) from kameha, a contraction of her father's name, and 
 maru, shade. She was distinguished for good-nature, and was much 
 beloved by all her subjects.
 
 341 
 
 The poor people, when unable to pay their rent, or under the 
 displeasure of the king and chiefs, or embarrassed on any other 
 account, frequently repaired to her, and found a friend whose aid 
 was never refused. 
 
 She was also kind to those foreigners who might be distressed in 
 the islands; and though she never harboured any, or countenanced 
 their absconding from their ships, she has often fed them when 
 hungry, and given them native tapa for clothing. 
 
 Kamehamaru was at all times lively and agreeable in company; 
 and though her application to her book and her pen was equal to 
 that of the king, her improvement in learning was more gradual, 
 and her general knowledge less extensive. 
 
 BECAME STRONG SUPPORTER OF CHRISTIANITY. 
 
 She excelled, however, in the management of his domestic affairs, 
 which were conducted by her with great judgment and address; and 
 though formerly accustomed to use ardent spirits, from the time 
 she put herself under Christian instruction, she entirely discon- 
 tinued that, and every other practice inconsistent with her profession 
 of Christianity. Her attendance on the duties of religion was main- 
 tained with commendable regularity. 
 
 Her influence contributed very materially to the pleasing change 
 that has recently taken place, in connexion with the labours of the 
 missionaries in the islands. For the instruction and moral improve- 
 ment of the people, she manifested no ordinary concern. 
 
 Long before many of the leading chiefs were favourable to the 
 instruction of the people, or their reception of Christianity, Ka- 
 mehamaru on every suitable occasion recommended her own servants 
 to serve Jehovah the living God, and attend to every means of 
 improvement within their reach. 
 
 It was truly pleasing to observe, so soon after she had embraced 
 Christianity herself, an anxiety to induce her people to follow her 
 example. 
 
 ESTABLISHED A SCHOOL IN HONOLULU. 
 
 At Honoruru she erected a school in which upwards of forty 
 children and young persons, principally connected with her estab- 
 lishment, were daily taught to read and write, and instructed in 
 the first principles of religion, by a native teacher whom she almost 
 entirely supported. 
 
 In this school she took a lively interest, and marked the progress 
 of the scholars with evident satisfaction; in order to encourage the 
 pupils, she frequently visited the school during the hours of in- 
 struction, accompanied by a number of chief women. She also
 
 342 
 
 attended the public examinations, and noticed those who on these 
 occasions excelled, frequently i^resenting a favourite scholar with a 
 slate, a copy-book, pencil, pen, or some other token of her approbation. 
 
 In her death the missionaries have lost a sincere friend, and her 
 subjects a queen, who always delighted to alleviate their distresses 
 and promote their interests. 
 
 Her disposition was affectionate. I have seen her and the king 
 sitting beside the couch of Keopuolani, her mother-in-law, day after 
 day, when the latter has been ill; and on these occasions, though 
 there might be several servants in constant attendance, she would 
 allow no individual but her husband or herself to hand to the patient 
 any thing she might want, or even fan the flies from her person. 
 
 INCIDENTS UPON HER DEPARTURE FOR ENGLAND. 
 
 The circumstances attending her departure from the islands were 
 peculiarly affecting. The king had gone on board the L'Aigle; the 
 boat was waiting to convey her to the ship. She arose from the 
 mat on which she had been reclining, embraced her mother and 
 other relations most affectionately, and passed through the crowd 
 towards the boat. The people fell down on their knees as she walked 
 along pressing and saluting her feet, frequently bathing them with 
 tears of unfeigned sorrow, and making loud wailings, in which they 
 were joined by the thousands who thronged the shore. 
 
 On reaching the water side, she turned, and beckoned to the people 
 to cease their cries. As soon as they were silent, she said, "I am 
 going to a distant land, and perhaps we shall not meet again. Let 
 us pray to Jehovah, that he may preserve us on the water, and you 
 on the shore." 
 
 She then called Auna, a native teacher from the Society Islands, 
 and requested him to pray. He did so; at the conclusion, she waved 
 her hand to the people, and said, "Aroha nui oukou:" (Attachment 
 great to you:) she then stepped into the boat, evidently much 
 affected. 
 
 The multitude followed her, not only to the beach, but into the 
 sea, where many, wading into the water, stood waving their hands, 
 exhibiting every attitude of sorrow, and uttering their loud u — e! 
 u — e! (alas! alas!) till the boat had pulled far out to sea. 
 
 INCIDENTS IN ENGLAND. 
 
 The death of the king and queen, so soon after their arrival in 
 England, was an event in many respects deeply to be deplored. 
 
 The officers of the London Missionary Society were unable to 
 gain access to them until they should have been introduced to his 
 majesty; and one of them, I believe the king, died on the very day 
 on which that introduction was to have taken place.
 
 343 
 
 The same circumstance also prevented many Christian friends, who 
 felt interested in their welfare, from that intercourse with them 
 which, under the blessing of God, might have been expected to have 
 strengthened the religious impressions they had received from the 
 instructions of the missionaries. 
 
 In their visit to England they were accompanied by a suite, which, 
 though much less numerous than that which invariably attended 
 their movements in their native islands, included nevertheless several 
 individuals of rank and influence. 
 
 THE KING'S SUITE ON VISIT TO ENGLAND. 
 
 Among the principal of these was Boki, the governor of the island 
 of Oahu, and Liliha his wife; Kauruheimarama, a distant relation 
 of the king's; Kakuanaoa and Kapihe, two of his favourite com- 
 panions; the latter of whom was a man of an amiable disposition, 
 and, considering the circumstances under which he had been brought 
 up, possessed general intelligence. He had made a voyage to Canton, 
 in China, for the purpose of acquiring mercantile information; and 
 from the circumstance of his commanding the finest vessel belonging 
 to the king, a brig of about ninety tons burden, called the Haaheo 
 Hawaii, (Pride of Hawaii,) he was sometimes called the Admiral, 
 although that is an office to which there is nothing analogous in the 
 present maritime system of the Hawaiians. 
 
 With this individual, who died at Valparaiso on his return to the 
 islands, and the others who survived the death of the king, particu- 
 larly with Boki, the officers of the London Missionary Society had 
 several interviews, and received the strongest assurances of their 
 continued patronage and support of the Christian mission established 
 in the Sandwich Islands. Many benevolent individuals had also an 
 opportunity of testifying the deep interest they felt in the civil, 
 moral, and religious improvement of their countrymen. 
 
 While they were at Portsmouth, the late venerable Dr. Bogue, 
 tutor of the Missionary Seminary at Gosport, accompanied by several 
 Christian friends, visited Boki and his companions, — expressed his 
 hopes that no unfavourable results would follow their visit to Great 
 Britain, and offered up his prayers that God would preserve them, 
 and bless their return to their native islands. 
 
 BOKI'S ATTITUDE TOWARD CHRISTIANITY. 
 
 Boki, together with his elder brother Karaimoku, had invariably 
 manifested his friendship towards the missionaries, by countenancing 
 every effort to enlighten the people; and, before he left the islands 
 to accompany his sovereign, we had reason to hope that his own 
 mind had received favourable impressions of that system of religion
 
 344 
 
 which it had been our object to unfold; but we were not without 
 serious apprehensions that his visit to England might considerably 
 weaken, if not altogether obliterate, those religious impressions, and 
 originate others of a character totally different. 
 
 In this respect, however, we have been most agreeably disappointed. 
 The death of the king and queen appears to have produced a salutary 
 effect on his mind; and, by letters recently received from the islands, 
 I have been gratified to learn, that, since his return, he has taken 
 a most decided stand in favour of Christianity, and has given evi- 
 dence of its influence on his heart so uniform and satisfactory, that 
 he has been admitted a member of the Christian church in Oahu, and 
 in the general tenour of his conduct exhibits to his countrymen an 
 example worthy of their imitation, materially contributing to the 
 advancement of civilization, education, and Christianity, throughout 
 the islands. 
 
 ATTITUDE OF CHIEFS TOWARD CHRISTIANITY. 
 
 It is a pleasing fact, in connexion with the present circumstances 
 of the nation, that not only Boki and his brother, the present regent, 
 but almost every chief of rank and influence in the Sandwich Islands, 
 are favourably disposed towards the instruction of the natives, and 
 the promulgation of the gospel. 
 
 A deep sense of the kindness of the late Dr. Bogue and his friends, 
 by whom they were visited at Portsmouth, appears to have re- 
 mained on the minds of the Hawaiian chiefs long after their return 
 to their native land; for when the Rev. C. S. Stewart, an American 
 missionary, was about to leave the Sandwich Islands for Great 
 Britain, Boki gave him a special charge to present his grateful 
 regards to the Bishop of Portsmouth. Mr. S. told him he was not 
 aware that there was such a dignitary; but Boki said, Yes, there 
 was, for he visited him, with some of his friends, when they were 
 on the point of sailing from England. Those who were acquainted 
 with the venerable form and apostolic address of the late Dr. Bogue, 
 will not be surprised at the mistake of the Sandwich chief, in his 
 supposing he must be the Bishop of Portsmouth. 
 
 A LETTER FROM BOKI. 
 
 Among the letters I was favoured to receive from the islands by 
 the return of his majesty's ship Blonde, those from Boki and Liliha, 
 or, as she was frequently called while in England, Madam Boki, 
 were of a character so interesting, that I think I shall be pardoned 
 for inserting one of them. It is from Boki, the chief who was with 
 the king in London. I shall translate it very literally.
 
 345 
 
 "Oahu. The first of the Twins is the month (answering to our 
 October,) 1825. 
 
 "Affection for you, Mr. Ellis, and sympathy with you, Mrs. Ellis, 
 in your illness. This is my entreaty: Beturn you hither, and we 
 shall be right. Grief was ours on your returning. Heard before 
 this have you of the death of the king: but all things here are correct. 
 We are serving God: we are making ourselves strong in His word. 
 Turned have the chiefs to instruction: their desire is towards God. 
 I speak unto them, and encourage them concerning the word of God, 
 that it may be well with our land. 
 
 "Attachment to you two, attachment to the 
 Ministers, and the Missionaries all. 
 
 "CAPTAIN BOKI." 
 
 MR. ELLIS RETURNS TO HONOLULU. 
 
 At ten o'clock in the forenoon of the 9th, I took leave of my 
 kind friends at Lahaina, and, in company with Messrs. Bingham 
 and Richards, went on board the Tamahorolani, bound to Oahu. It 
 was, however, four o'clock in the afternoon before the vessel hove 
 up her anchor. We were becalmed till nine in the evening, when a 
 fresh breeze sprung up; we passed down the channel between Mo- 
 rokai and Eanai; and between nine and ten in the forenoon of the 
 10th, arrived off the harbour of Honoruru. 
 
 On landing, I was grateful to meet my family in health and com- 
 fort, except Mrs. Ellis, who was confined by severe indisposition. I 
 united with Messrs. Thurston, Bishop, and Goodrich, who had pre- 
 viously arrived, in grateful acknowledgments to God for the un- 
 remitted care and distinguishing goodness which we had enjoyed in 
 accomplishing the interesting tour, from which, under circumstances 
 of no small mercy, we had now returned.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 REMARKS ON THE HAWAIIAN LANGUAGE. 
 
 HAWAIIAN ROCK CARVINGS. 
 
 In the course of our tour around Hawaii, we met with a few speci- 
 mens of what may perhaps be termed the first efforts of an uncivilized 
 people towards the construction of a language of symbols. 
 
 Along the southern coast, both on the east and west sides, we 
 frequently saw a number of straight lines, semicircles, or concentric 
 rings, with some rude imitations of the human figure, cut or carved 
 in the compact rocks of lava. They did not appear to have been cut 
 with an iron instrument, but with a stone hatchet, or a stone less 
 frangible than the rock on which they were portrayed. 
 
 On inquiry, we found that they had been made by former travellers, 
 from a motive similar to that which induces a person to carve his 
 initials on a stone or tree, or a traveller to record his name in an 
 album, to inform his successors that he has been there. 
 
 When there were a number of concentric circles with a dot or mark 
 in the centre, the dot signified a man, and the number of rings de- 
 noted the number in the party who had circumambulated the island. 
 
 When there was a ring, and a number of marks, it denoted the 
 same; the number of marks shewing of how many the party consisted; 
 and the ring, that they had travelled completely round the island; but 
 when there was only a semicircle, it denoted that they had returned 
 after reaching the place where it was made. 
 
 In some of the islands we have seen the outline of a fish portrayed 
 in the same manner, to denote that one of that species or size had 
 been taken near the spot; sometimes the dimensions of an exceed- 
 ingly large fruit, &c. are marked in the same way. 
 
 NO WRITTEN LANGUAGE IN HAWAII. 
 
 With this slight exception, if such it can be called, the natives 
 of the Sandwich and other islands had no signs for sounds or 
 ideas, nor any pictorial representation of events. Theirs was entirely 
 an oral langiiage; and, whatever view we take of it, presents the 
 most interesting phenomenon connected with the inhabitants of the 
 Pacific. 
 
 A grammatical analysis would exceed my present limits; a few 
 brief remarks, however, will convey some idea of its peculiarities; 
 and a copious grammar, prepared by my respected colleagues, the 
 American missionaries in those islands, and myself, may perhaps be 
 published at no distant period.
 
 347 
 THE POLYNESIAN LANGUAGE. 
 
 The language of the Hawaiians is a dialect of what the mission- 
 aries in the South Seas have called the Polynesian language, spoken 
 in all the islands which lie to the east of the Friendly Islands, in- 
 cluding New Zealand and Chatham Island. 
 
 The extent to which it prevails, the degree of perfection it has 
 attained, the slight analogy between it and any one known language, 
 the insulated situation and the uncivilized character of the people by 
 whom it is spoken, prove that, notwithstanding the rude state of 
 their society, they have bestowed no small attention to its cultivation, 
 and lead to the inference, that it has been for many ages a distinct 
 language; while the obscurity that veils its origin, as well as that 
 of the people by whom it is used, prevents our forming any satis- 
 factory conclusion as to the source whence it was derived. 
 
 COMPARISON BETWEEN HAWAIIAN AND MALAYAN. 
 
 The numerals are similar to those of the Malays; and it has many 
 words in common with that language, yet the construction of the 
 words and the rules of syntax appear different. 
 
 In the specimen of languages spoken in Sumatra, given by Mr. 
 Marsden in his history of that island, some words appear in each, 
 common in the South Seas; and it is difficult to determine in which 
 they preponderate. 
 
 In looking over the Malayan grammar and dictionary by the same 
 gentleman, many words appear similar in sound and signification; 
 but there are a number of radical words common to all the Polynesian 
 languages, as kanaka, man, ao, light, pouri, darkness, po, night, ra 
 or la, sun, marama, moon, maitai, good, ino, bad, ai, to eat, and moe, 
 to sleep, which, though very nearly the same in all the South Sea 
 languages, appear to have no affinity with orang, trang, klam, malam, 
 mataari, and shems, bulan, baik, buruk, makan, and tidor, words of 
 the same meaning in Malayan; notwithstanding this, there is a 
 striking resemblance in others, and a great part of the language was 
 doubtless derived from the same source. 
 
 COMPARISON WITH LANGUAGE OP MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Since my return to England, I have had an opportunity of con- 
 versing with the Madagasse youth now in this country for the pur- 
 poses of education, and from them, as well as a vocabulary which 
 I have seen, I was surprised to learn, that in several points the 
 aboriginal languages of Madagascar and the South Sea Islands are 
 strikingly analogous, if not identical, though the islands are about 
 10,000 geographical miles distant from each other. 
 
 With the aboriginal languages of Smith America we have had
 
 348 
 
 no opportunity of comparing it; some of the words of that country, 
 in their simplicity of construction and vowel terminations, as Peru, 
 Quito, pronounced kito, Parana, Oronoko, &c. appear like Polynesian 
 words. 
 
 COMPARISON WITH HEBREW. 
 
 In the Sandwich Islands, as well as the Tahitian language, there 
 are a number of words that appear true Hebrew roots, and in the 
 conjugation of the verbs there is a striking similarity; the causative 
 active and the causative passive being formed by a prefix and suffix 
 to the verb. 
 
 In many respects it is unique, and in some defective, but not in 
 that degree which might be expected from the limited knowledge of 
 the people. 
 
 The simple construction of the words, the predominancy of vowels, 
 and the uniform terminations, are its great peculiarities. 
 
 The syllables are in general composed of two letters, and never 
 more than three. 
 
 There are no sibilants in the language, nor any double consonants. 
 
 HAWAIIAN SYSTEM OF PRONUNCIATION. 
 
 Every word and syllable terminates with a vowel; and the natives 
 cannot pronounce two consonants without an intervening vowel; 
 nor a word terminating with a consonant, without either dropping 
 the final letter, or adding a vowel; hence they pronounce Britain, 
 Beritania, boat, boti; while there are many words, and even sentences, 
 without a consonant, as e i ai oe ia ia ae e ao ia, literally, "speak 
 now to him by the side that he learn." 
 
 The frequent use of the k renders their speech more masculine 
 than that of the Tahitians, in which the t predominates. 
 
 The sound of their language is peculiarly soft and harmonious; 
 great attention is also paid to euphony, on account of which the 
 article is often varied; the same is the case in the Tahitian, in which 
 the word tavovovovo, signifies the rolling of thunder. 
 
 A LANGUAGE ADAPTED TO POETRY. 
 
 Each of the dialects appears adapted for poetry, and none more 
 so than the Hawaiian, in which the 1 frequently occurs. Whether 
 the smoothness of their language induced the natives to cultivate 
 metrical composition, or their fondness for the latter has occasioned 
 the multiplicity of vowels, and soft flowing arrangement of the sen- 
 tences, which distinguish their language, it is difficult to conjecture. 
 
 In native poetry, rhyming terminations are neglected, and the 
 chief art appears to consist in the compilation of short metrical 
 sentences, agreeing in accent and cadence at the conclusion of each, or 
 at the end of a certain number of sentences.
 
 349 
 
 Kude as their native poetry is, they are passionately fond of it. 
 When they first began to learn to read and spell, it was impossible 
 for them to repeat a column of spelling, or recite a lesson, without 
 chanting or singing it. 
 
 They had one tune for the monosyllables, another for the dissyl- 
 lables, &c. and we have heard three or four members of a family 
 sitting for an hour together in an evening, and reciting their school 
 lessons in perfect concord. 
 
 HISTORY PRESERVED IN SONGS. 
 
 Most of the traditions of remarkable events in their history are 
 preserved in songs committed to memory, by persons attached to 
 the king or chiefs; or strolling musicians., who travel through the 
 islands, and recite them on occasions of public festivity. 
 
 The late king had one of these bards attached from infancy to 
 his household, who, like some of the ancient bards, was blind, and 
 who, when required, would recite a hura (song) on any particular 
 event relating to the family of his sovereign. 
 
 The office was hereditary; the songs transmitted from father to 
 son; and whatever defects might attach to their performances, con- 
 sidered as works of art, they were not wanting in effect; being 
 highly figurative, and delivered in strains of plaintive sadness, or 
 wild enthusiasm, they produced great excitement of feeling. 
 
 Sometimes their interest was local, and respected some particular 
 family, but the most popular were the national songs. 
 
 When I first visited the Sandwich Islands, one on the defeat of 
 Kekuaokalani, the rival of Kihoriho, who was slain in the battle of 
 Tuamoo, was in the mouth of almost every native we met; another, 
 nearly as popular, was a panegyric on the late king, composed on his 
 accession to the government; and soon after his departure for Eng- 
 land, several bards were employed in celebrating that event. 
 
 HOW SONGS WERE FORMULATED. 
 
 In my voyage from Hawaii, three or four females, fellow-passen- 
 gers, were thus employed during the greater part of the passage, 
 which afforded me an opportunity of observing the process. They 
 first agreed on two or three ideas, arranged them in a kind of metrical 
 sentence, with great attention to the accent of the concluding word, 
 and then repeated it in concert. If it sounded discordantly, they 
 altered it; if not, they repeated it several times, and then pro- 
 ceeded to form a new sentence. 
 
 THE USE OF "T" AND "K." 
 The k in most of the islands is generally used in common inter- 
 course, but it is never admitted Lnto their poetical compositions, In 
 
 which the t is universally and invariably employed.
 
 350 
 
 The following Verses, extracted from a collection of Hymns in 
 the native language, containing 60 pages, are a translation of lines 
 on the "Sandwich Mission," by W. B. Tappan, on the embarkation 
 of the missionaries from New Haven, (America,) in 1822. The 
 k is employed, though contrary to the practice of the natives. The 
 original commences with — 
 
 "Wake, isles of the south, your redemption is near, 
 No longer repose in the borders of gloom." 
 
 HAWAIIAN. 
 
 I na moku i paa i ka pouri mau, 
 Uhia 'ka naau po wale rakou, 
 Ano nei e puka no maila ke ao, 
 Hoku Bet'lehema, ka Hoku ao mau. 
 
 Huia ka rere a pau me ka kii, 
 E hooreia ka taumaha a pau; 
 I k'alana maitai rakou e ora'i, 
 Tabu ka heiau na ke Akua mau. 
 
 E ake rakou i nana wave ae, 
 Ka wehea mai'ka araura maitai, 
 A o ka kukuna 'ka Mesia mau, 
 "A kali na moku kona kanawai." 
 
 ORIGINAL. 
 
 On the islands that sit in the regions of night, 
 The lands of despair, to oblivion a prey, 
 The morning will open with healing and light, 
 And the young star of Bethlehem will ripen to day. 
 
 The altar and idol, in dust overthrown, 
 
 The incense forbade that was hallow 'd with blood; 
 
 The priest of Melchisedec there shall atone, 
 
 And the shrines of Hawaii be sacred to God. 
 
 The heathen will hasten to welcome the time, 
 The day-spring the prophet in vision foresaw, 
 When the beams of Messiah will 'lumine each clime, 
 And the isles of the ocean shall wait for his law. 
 
 A COPIOUS LANGUAGE. 
 
 Notwithstanding its defects, the Hawaiian has its excellencies. 
 Ideas are frequently conveyed with great force and precision; verbs 
 not only express the action, but the manner of it, distinctly; hence, 
 to send a message would be orero, to send a messenger, kono, 
 to send a parcel, houna, to break a stick, haki, to break a string, 
 moku, to break a cup, naha, to break a law, hoomaloka, &c. 
 
 Considering it is a language that has received no additions from
 
 351 
 
 the intercourse of the natives with other countries, and is devoid of 
 all technical terms of art and science, it is, as well as the other 
 dialects, exceedingly copious. Some idea of this may be formed 
 from the circumstance of there being in the Tahitian upwards of 
 1400 words commencing with the letter a. 
 
 The greatest imperfections we have discovered occur in the degrees 
 of the adjectives, and the deficiency of the auxiliary verb to be, 
 which is implied, but not expressed. 
 
 The natives cannot say, I am, or it is, yet they can say a thing 
 remains, as, ke waiho maira ka waa i raira, (the canoe remains 
 there;) and their verbs are used in the participial form, by simply 
 adding the termination ana, equivalent to ing, in English. 
 
 Hence in asking a native, What he is doing? the question would 
 be, "He aha-ana oe?" (What-ing you?) The answer would be, He 
 ai ana wau. Eating (am) I. The He denoting the present tense 
 preceding the question, the answer corresponds; but if he wished to 
 say, what he was eating, the noun would be placed between the verb, 
 and its participial termination, as He ai poe ana wau, literally, Eat 
 poe-ing I. 
 
 In every other respect their language appears to possess all the 
 parts of speech, and some in greater variety and perfection than 
 any language we are acquainted with. 
 
 HOW WRITTEN LANGUAGE WAS FORMULATED. 
 
 In reducing the language to a written form, the American mission- 
 aries adopted the Eoman character, as the English missionaries had 
 done before in the southern dialects. 
 
 The English alphabet possesses a redundancy of consonants, and 
 though rather deficient in vowels, answers tolerably well to express 
 all the native sounds. 
 
 The Hawaiian alphabet consists of seventeen letters: five vowels, 
 a, e, i, o, u, and twelve consonants, b, d, h, k, 1, m, n, p, r, t, v, w, to 
 which f, g, s, and z, have been added, for the purpose of preserving 
 the identity of foreign words. 
 
 The consonants are sounded as in English, though we have been 
 obliged to give them different names, for the natives could not say 
 el or em, but invariably pronounced ela and ema; it being therefore 
 necessary to retain the final vowel, that was thought sufficient, and 
 the other was rejected. 
 
 EUROPEAN PRONUNCIATION FOLLOWED. 
 
 The vowels are sounded more after the manner of the continental 
 languages than the English; A, as in ah, and sometimes as it in far, 
 but never as a in fate; E, as a in gale, ape, and mate; I, as ee in 
 green; e in me, or i in machine.
 
 352 
 
 The short sound of i in bit, seldom occurs, and the long sound of 
 i in wine is expressed by the diphthong ai; O, as o in no and mote; 
 U, as u in rude, or oo in moon. 
 
 Several of the consonants are interchangeable, particularly the 1 
 and r, the b and p, t and k. There are no silent letters. I have 
 known a native, acquainted with the power of the letters, spell a 
 word, when it has been correctly pronounced, though he had never 
 seen it written; for in pronouncing a word, it is necessary to pro- 
 nounce every letter of which it is composed. 
 
 THE PARTS OF SPEECH. 
 
 Articles. — They have two articles, definite (he) and indefinite 
 (ke or ka,) answering to the English the and a or an. The articles 
 precede the nouns to which they belong. 
 
 Nouns. — The nouns undergo no inflection, or change of termina- 
 tion, the number, case, and gender, being denoted by distinct words 
 or particles prefixed or added. Hence o, which is only the sign of 
 the nominative, has been usually placed before Tahiti and Hawaii, 
 making Otaheiti and Owhyhee, though the o is no part of the word 
 any more than no the sign of the possessive, as no Hawaii, of Hawaii, 
 and i the sign of the objective, as i Hawaii, to Hawaii. 
 
 Pronouns. — The scheme of pronouns is copious and precise, having 
 not only a singular, dual, and plural number, but a double dual and 
 plural; the first including the speaker and spoken to, as thou and I, 
 and ye and I; the second, the speaker and party spoken of, as he 
 and I, and they and I. Each of these combinations is clearly ex- 
 pressed by a distinct pronoun. 
 
 Adjectives. — The adjective follows the noun to which it belongs. 
 There are several degrees of comparison, though the form of the 
 adjective undergoes no change; the degrees are expressed by distinct 
 words. There is, properly speaking, no superlative; it is, however, 
 expressed by prefixing the definite article, as k kiekie, ke nui, (the 
 high, the great.) 
 
 Verbs. — The verbs are active, passive, and neuter. The regular 
 active verb in the Hawaiian dialect admits of four conjugations, as 
 rohe, to hear, hoo-rohe, to cause to hear, rohe-ia, heard, and hoo- 
 rohe-ia, to cause to be heard. Some of the verbs admit the second 
 and fourth, but reject the third, as noho, to sit, hoo-noho, to cause 
 to sit, and hoo-noho-ia, to cause to be seated. Others again allow the 
 third and fourth, but not the second, as pepehi, to beat, pepehi-ia, 
 beaten, and hoopepehi-ia, to cause to be beaten. The verbs usually 
 precede the nouns and pronouns, as here au, go I, and e noho marie 
 oe, sit still you, instead of, I go, and you sit still. 
 
 The adverbs, prepositions, conjunctions, and interjections, are
 
 numerous; but a description of them, and their relative situation in 
 the construction of their sentences, would take up too much room. 
 
 NUMERALS RESEMBLE MALAYAN. 
 
 Their numerals resemble the Malayan more than any other part 
 of their language. 
 
 Eleven would be either umidiumu-ma-kahi, ten the root and one, 
 or umi-akahi-keu, ten one over; this would be continued by adding 
 the units to the ten till twenty, which they call iva-karua, forty 
 they call kanahaa, or seventy-six they would say forty twenty ten 
 and six, and continue counting by forties till 400, which they call a 
 rau, then they add till 4000, which they call a mano, 40,000 they 
 call lehu, and 400,000 a kini; beyond this we do not know that they 
 carry their calculations: the above words are sometimes doubled, as 
 manomano kinikini; they are, however, only used thus to express a 
 large but indefinite number. Their selection of the number four in 
 calculations is singular; thus, 864,S95 would be, according to their 
 method of reckoning, two kini, or 400,000s, one lehu, or 40,000, six 
 mano, or 4000s, two rau, or 400s, two kanaha, or 40s, one umi, or ten 
 and five. They calculate time by the moon; allow twelve to a year; 
 have a distinct name for every moon, and every night of the moon, 
 and reckon the parts of a month by the number of nights, as pa 
 akoru ainei, nights three ago, instead of three days ago. 
 
 The following specimen of native composition will convey some idea 
 of their idiom. The translation is servile; and with this I shall close 
 these remarks on their language. It is a letter written by the late 
 king in answer to one I sent, acquainting him with my second arrival 
 in the isalnds, on the 4th of Feb. 1823. 
 
 "Mr. Ellis, eo. 
 Mr. Ellis, attend. 
 
 Aroha ino oe, me ko wahine, me na kiiki a pan a 
 Attachment great (to) you, and your wife, with children all of ye 
 orua. I ola oukou ia Jehova ia laua o tesu rlraist. 
 two. Preserved (have) you (been) by Jehovah they two Jesus Christ. 
 Eia kau walii olero ia oe, -Mr. Ellis, apopo a tela La ku :i ahiahi, 
 Thi- (is) my word to you, Mr. Ellis, to morrow or the day after when 
 a ku hoi mai. I ka tabu a 1< ila ua ite knua. A i 
 g, then 1 return. On the ."-'i* 1 : i (shall; meel we. I 
 
 23
 
 354 
 
 makemake oe e here mai ianei maitai no hoi. Ike ware oe i na'rii 
 desire you to come here, well also. Seen indeed (have) you 
 o Tahiti. Aroha ware na'rii o Bolabola. 
 the chiefs of Tahiti. Attachment only to the chiefs of Borabora.* 
 
 I ola oe ia Jehova ia Jesu Kraist. 
 
 Saved (may) you (be) by Jehovah by Jesus Christ. 
 
 IOLANI. » » 
 * The term for the Society Islands. 
 
 (Several pages of Hawaiian words and their English equivalents and of 
 declensions of Hawaiian pronouns are omitted.) 
 
 The End
 
 INDEX 
 
 Page 
 Adams, Jno. ; See "Kuakini". 
 
 Adultery, Penalty for 319 
 
 Adze, Favorite tool 239 
 
 Akea, First King of Hawaii, 
 
 Founded Kingdom after death.. 275 
 Alcoholic liquor; See "Liquor". 
 American Mission, Founding of.. 
 
 28, 37 
 
 American Missionaries; See "Mis- 
 sionaries' '. 
 Anaana; See "Sorcery". 
 Animals; See "Cattle", "Dogs", 
 "Pigs", "Sheep". 
 
 Animals described 32, 33 
 
 Appeal to Chiefs or King, Right 
 
 of 320 
 
 Arapai, Chief of Waimanu 
 
 277, 280, 283 
 
 Army; See "Battle", "War". 
 Army, Hawaiian, no professional 110 
 Assembly, Public, When held.... 321 
 
 Auae, Chief, Rank of 313 
 
 Awa, Manufacture and use of... 287 
 
 Bamboo Knives used 
 
 Bananas 147, 197, 
 
 Barter, Customs of 
 
 Basket, Ieie root made by natives 
 Battle; See "Keei", "Puako- 
 koki", "Nuuanu", "War", 
 "Kekuaokalani", "Keoua". 
 
 Battle, Ethics most brutal 
 
 Idols carried in 
 
 Method of 110, 115, 
 
 To restore idolatry 
 
 Battles, Fought in daytime 
 
 Beheading; See "Decapitation". 
 Bennett, Geo., Visit of to Hawaii, 
 
 1822 
 
 Berries of the Islands 
 
 34, 54, 55, 172, 
 
 176, 192, 194, 195, 226, 302, 
 
 Birds of Hawaii described 
 
 Bishop, Artemas, Trip of around 
 
 Hawaii 4, 7, 
 
 44, 47, 49, 138, 224, 310, 312, 
 Bishop, S. E., Reminiscences of.. 
 Blatchely, Dr., Trip of to Mauna 
 
 Kea 303, 
 
 Boki, Letter to Ellis from... 344, 
 
 Member King's Suite on trip 
 
 to England; character of; 
 
 friendly to missionaries. . . 
 
 343 
 
 Rank of 
 
 Report by, of interview with 
 
 King of England 
 
 Boundaries, Land, How marked.. 
 
 Breadfruit at Waiakea 
 
 Building; See "Houses". 
 
 Burial Caves, Described 106, 
 
 Burial Customs, Hawaiian arid 
 
 South Pacific 269- 
 
 Burning the skin, a badge of 
 
 mourning 
 
 Butler, Missionaries entertained 
 
 by at Lahaina 
 
 Byron' a Bay, Description of. . . . 
 
 Byron, Lord, Vi it of 7, 
 
 Calabii ■ ii bed 
 
 Candle nut tree; Bee "Knkui". 
 
 260 
 252 
 319 
 225 
 
 119 
 117 
 117 
 92 
 115 
 
 304 
 33 
 
 322 
 3 
 
 304 
 345 
 
 345 
 311 
 
 339 
 262 
 252 
 
 270 
 
 272 
 
 187 
 
 58 
 
 ■_•:.! 
 
 281 
 
 35 
 
 189 
 205 
 
 Page 
 
 Canoe, Double 255, 280 
 
 Hawaiian, Construction and 
 
 operation of.. 90, 159, 255, 256 
 Kukui at Society Islands. . . . 282 
 Landing at Kehena described 212 
 
 Long voyages in 327 
 
 Canoe trips from Hilo to Laupa- 
 
 hoehoe 241, 257 
 
 Kohala to Kawaihae 298 
 
 Kona to Kau. .138, 140, 141, 143 
 
 Waipio to Waimanu 277 
 
 Cattle, Hunting in Hawaii 286 
 
 In Hawaii 33, 303, 304 
 
 Vancouver brought to Islands 35 
 Census; See "Population" Ha- 
 waii, 1823 10 
 
 Centipedes in Hawaii 33 
 
 Cession of Islands to Great Brit- 
 ain 
 
 Chamberlain, Description of Kilau- 
 
 ea by 188, 
 
 Chant, Example of Hawaiian .... 
 
 Chiefs; See "Customs". 
 
 Chiefs, Common people property 
 
 of; Power over people 
 
 313, 315, 316, 319, 322 
 
 Consulted by King 321 
 
 Customs upon death of.. 132-137 
 
 Etiquette between 313, 314 
 
 Household, Description of.. 
 
 233, 280 
 
 Monopoly of trading by.... 311 
 Rank of individuals set forth 
 
 312, 313 
 
 Rapacious and avaricious. . . . 322 
 
 Tabu easy upon 293 
 
 Chiefs, Names of principal; See 
 Boki, Hoakau, Hoapiri (Hoa- 
 pili). Ihikaina, Kaahumanu, 
 Kahanaumaitai, Kahavari, Ka- 
 hekii (Kahekili), Kaikioeva, 
 Kakuiapoiwa, Kalaimoku, Ka- 
 laiopu, Kalakua. Kamahoe, Ka- 
 makau, Kamapiikai. Kameha- 
 maru (Kamamaln), Kaoreioku, 
 Kapihe, Kapiolani, Kaumualii, 
 Kauiuheimarama, Keakealani, 
 Keaveaheuru, Keeaumoku, Ke- 
 kauruohe, Kekuaokalani, Ke- 
 kuanaoa, Keopuolani, Keoua, 
 Kinao, Kiwalao, Koreamoku, 
 Kuakini, Kumaraua, Kumuoka- 
 piki, Liliha, Maaro, Manona, 
 Miomioi, Miru. Naihe, Nahiena- 
 ena, Pauahi, Piia, Poriorani, 
 Bihoriho I Liholiho ) , Riroa (Li- 
 Ina i, Bono (Lono)i Taeo (Ka- 
 eo), Taiana. Tarainpu, Teave- 
 mauhiri, Tt'jiorinniiii. T i li a. 
 1'nii, Wahinepio. 
 Christianity, Effect of upon games 
 
 and gambling 149 
 
 Effect of mi Infanticide, .2 16, 217 
 
 Effect "f (Hi mourning cus- 
 toms 1 H7 
 
 Effect of mi Datives .... 121, 122 
 
 Effect of (Hi war 121 
 
 Kamehamaru strung inpport' 
 
 er of -'Mi 
 
 Natives inclined toward .... 
 
 152, 281, 232
 
 356 
 
 Page 
 
 Church. Erection of at Kailua... 
 
 3, 300, 305 
 
 City of Refuge, at Honaunau and 
 
 Waipio 109, 126-128, 273 
 
 Origin of 128 
 
 Rules relating to 127 
 
 Climate of Island of Hawaii 264 
 
 Of Honolulu 30 
 
 Cloaks, Feather, described. .. 116, 117 
 
 Cocoanuts in Puna 203 
 
 Coleridge, Estimate of value of 
 
 this book by 5 
 
 Common People, Pass with the 
 
 land 316 
 
 Property of chiefs 322 
 
 Rank of: Labor required of; 
 
 Status of 313, 315 
 
 Cook, Capt., Burial cave of 97 
 
 Character of reports by 17 
 
 Bodv, Disposition of 101-103 
 
 Death, Details of 98-103 
 
 Foreigners in Hawaii prior to 
 
 330, 333 
 
 Kamehameha present at death 
 
 of 35 
 
 Lava flow at time of 217 
 
 Natives thought him a god, 
 regretted death... 99, i00, 101 
 
 Reminiscences of 52 
 
 Treatment of by natives. ... 18 
 Cooking, Hawaiian methods of... 160 
 Counting, Hawaiian method of . . . 353 
 Courts. Constitution of, Right of 
 
 appeal 320, 321 
 
 Crime, Penalty for 318, 319 
 
 Hawaiian and So. Pacific com- 
 pared 258-261 
 
 Cultivation, Extensive in Kona. . 48 
 Customs; See "Battle", "Bur- 
 ial", "Chiefs", "Cooking", 
 "Dress", "Eating", "Eti- 
 quette", "Games", "Hospital- 
 ity", "Houses", "Housewarm- 
 ing 1 ". "Hula", "Infanticide", 
 "Labor", "Marriage", "Med- 
 icine", "Mercy", "Mourn- 
 ing", "Pets", "Sacrifices", 
 "Seashore, Living at", "Sing- 
 ing", Social", "Surgery", 
 "Tabu", Trading", "War". 
 
 Daggers described 116 
 
 Dancers, Rank of 313 
 
 Dancing; See "Hula" 
 
 Davis, Isaac, Capture of 35 
 
 Dead; See "Burial", "Human 
 Sacrifice' '. 
 
 Death, Life after, discussed with 
 natives 274, 275 
 
 Death; See "Mourning Customs". 
 
 Penalty for adultery 319 
 
 Penalty for breaking tabu, 
 
 How administered . . . .290, 293 
 Power of in King and Chiefs 319 
 
 Decapitation, Penaltv for adul- 
 tery 319 
 
 Diamond Hill 24 
 
 Distilled Liquor; See "Liquor". 
 
 Districts, Division and govern- 
 ment of 314 
 
 Diviners, Consulted before battle 117 
 
 Page 
 Divorce, At will by husband. . . . 329 
 Dixon & Portlock, Visit to Ha- 
 waii by 34 
 
 Dogs, As pets 309 
 
 Principal meat 260, 261 
 
 Wild, on Mauna Kea 304 
 
 Douglas, Visit to Hawaii by. . . . 34 
 Dress; See "Cloaks", "Maro". 
 
 Dress of natives, described 
 
 74, 79, 83, 84, 116, 145, 146 
 
 Drunkenness, Encountered on trip, 
 
 Increase of 129, 196, 287, 288 
 
 Effect of on social etiquette. . 313 
 
 Duel described 118 
 
 Dwellings; See "Houses". 
 
 Eating, Customs 45, 80, 95, 241 
 
 Earthquake at Kaimu in 1823. . . . 208 
 
 Ehus, Descendants of foreigners 
 prior to Cook 331 
 
 Eleanor, Attempted capture of 
 ship 34 
 
 Ellis, Rev. Wni., Biography of, In- 
 cidents relating to 
 
 . .4, 7, 38-40, 56, 193, 334-336, 345 
 
 Eloquence, Native, Example of. . 113 
 
 England; See "Great Britain". 
 
 English Mission, Delegates go to 
 
 Hawaii 38, 39 
 
 Established in S. Pacific... 36 
 
 English missionaries; See "Mis- 
 sionaries, English". 
 
 Eruption; See "Volcano". 
 
 Etiquette of chiefs 79, 313, 314 
 
 Fair American, Capture and de- 
 struction of 35 
 
 Farmers. Rank of in society 313 
 
 Feast, Hawaiian, described. . .260-262 
 Feudal system, Government resem- 
 bled 314 
 
 Fighting; See "War". 
 
 Firearms, Effect of in Hawaii.. 121 
 
 Fire-making by friction 225 
 
 Fish, Dried, an article of com- 
 merce 203 
 
 Fish not abundant ._. 33 
 
 Fish pond, Kamehameha's at Ki- 
 
 holo 306 
 
 Fisheries and fishing methods of 
 Hawaii and South Seas com- 
 pared 297, 298 
 
 Fishing by torchlight, described. . 282 
 Flag, Hawaiian, Origin and pic- 
 ture of 311 
 
 Flood, Hawaiian tradition of the. . 333 
 
 Foreigners a curiosity 146 
 
 Foreigners, Distilled liquor intro- 
 duced by 287 
 
 In Hawaii prior to Cook. . . . 
 
 330-333 
 
 Fort at Honolulu, Origin and 
 
 status of 28 
 
 Fort at Kailua 76, 77, 323 
 
 Forts, Construction and defense of 
 
 114, 115 
 
 Friendly Islands, English mission 
 
 at 36 
 
 Fruit; See "Berries". 
 
 Fruits of the Islands 
 
 33, 34, 48, 123, 144, 252 
 
 Funeral; See "Burial".
 
 357 
 
 Page 
 Furniture of chief's house de- 
 scribed 45, 280 
 
 Gambling, Chief incentive for 
 
 games 149 
 
 Methods described, Bad ef- 
 fects of 149 
 
 Prevalence of 62 
 
 Quarrels resulting from .... 149 
 
 Games, Effect of Christianity upon 149 
 Gambling chief incentive of.. 149 
 Hawaiian; See "Horua", 
 "Konane'*, " JIaika", 
 "Pahe", "Puhenehene", 
 ' 'Water Games' '. 
 Tournaments of, held 148 
 
 Geese, Wild, on Hawaii 20, 180 
 
 Georgian Islands, Tahiti one of. . 
 
 69, 324 
 
 Goats in Hawaii 33, 304 
 
 Gods; See "Idols", "Religious 
 Beliefs", "Sacrifices". 
 
 Gods, Described and named: 
 
 Akea, a god — King of Ha- 
 waii 274, 275, 324 
 
 Haumea 324 
 
 Hiatahoiteporiapele 185 
 
 Hiatanoholani 185 
 
 Hiataopio 185 
 
 Hiatareiia 185 
 
 Hiatataaravamata 185 
 
 Hiatatabuenaena 185 
 
 Hiatawawahilani 185 
 
 Kalaipahoa, poison god.... 68, 69 
 Kamapuaa; see "Kamapuaa". 
 
 Kamohoarii 184 
 
 Kaneapua, a Lanai god 67 
 
 Kanenuiakea 88 
 
 Kaneruruhonua 88 
 
 Kekuaaimanu 88 
 
 Kuahiro 204, 272 
 
 Kukailimoku 72 
 
 Makorewawahiwaa 185 
 
 Miru, a god and king, the 
 Hawaiian Pluto.. 274, 275, 276 
 
 Mooarii, a Molokai god 67 
 
 Kohoarii 154 
 
 Pele; See "Pele". 
 
 Raeapua, a Lanai god 67 
 
 Keoroewa, a Maui god 66 
 
 Rono, Cook thought to be. 
 Traditions of.... 100, 101, 217 
 
 Roramakaeha 88 
 
 Tairi, a flying god 90, 217 
 
 Tanaroa 217, 324 
 
 Tane 297, 324 
 
 Tanehetiri 184 
 
 Teoahitamataua 185 
 
 Teuaatepo 184 
 
 Topohaitahiora 184 
 
 Tu 217 
 
 Uri, god of sorcerers '_i ~ 
 
 Gods, Manufacture of 158 
 
 Gods, Of Lanai and Molokai. . . . 07 
 
 (If Maui ■;''• 
 
 Of the Sea 67 
 
 Savage character of.... Ill, 272 
 
 Shark M 
 
 Volcano, .'■ as of . . 1 87 
 
 War decided upon bj i i i 
 
 Page 
 Goodrich. Rev* Josepn, Canoeing 
 
 through the surf by 138 
 
 Description of Kilauea by. . . 
 
 183, 189 
 
 Trip of around Hawaii 
 
 ... .4, 7, 44, 48, 51, 312, 322 
 Trip of to top of Manna Kea 
 
 301, 303, 304 
 
 Government; See "Law". 
 Government, Hawaiian system of 
 
 described 110, 312, 314-322 
 
 Good, Little progress in ... . 
 
 321, 322 
 
 Grammar: See "Hawaiian Lan- 
 guage, Rules of Grammar of". 
 Great Britain, Cession of Hawaii 
 
 to 35 
 
 Visit of Kamehameha II to. . 
 
 7. 338-340 
 
 Green Lake, Puna, Description of 
 
 218, 219 
 
 Guns; Use of in Hawaii 121 
 
 Haa, Chief, Rank of 313 
 
 Hades, Hawaiian and Society Is- 
 lands tradition of.... 101, 275, 276 
 Hair, Cutting of, on death of a 
 
 chief 132, 133 
 
 Halawa, Experiences at 286 
 
 Kamehameha's original pat- 
 rimony 288 
 
 Hale o Keawe described, picture 
 
 of 124. 126 
 
 Hale o Riroa, Burial place of 
 
 Riroa at Waipio 273 
 
 Hamakua, Described ..261. 262, 
 264, 265-269, 272-274, 285, 301 
 
 Status of natives of 264 
 
 Harbor dues belong to King, Ori- 
 gin of 316, 317 
 
 Harwood, Mr., Accompanied dele- 
 gation around Hawaii 44, 255 
 
 Haupokane, A foreign land visited 
 
 by natives 297 
 
 Hawaii, Climate of Island of.... 264 
 
 Compared with Tahiti 19 
 
 Description of Island of.... 19 
 Exploration of. . . .10, 40, I I. B6 
 
 Importance of 21 
 
 Interior of unknown 20 
 
 Journal of trip around, Au- 
 thors of 4, 8 
 
 of 16 
 
 Pronunciation of 42 
 
 Hawaiian Character; Bee "Hospi- 
 tality ". " Licentiousness ' '. 
 • 'Drunkennei b", ' '< Gambling' '. 
 Hawaiian Ohiefs; See "Chiefs, 
 
 Names of Principal' '. 
 Hawaiian Chiefs, Physical '1' 
 
 tiou <>f 32 
 
 Hawaiian Customs; See "Cus- 
 
 Hawaiian D "Dresa". 
 
 Hawaiian etiquette; See "Eti- 
 quette 1 '. 
 
 Hnv. . See "Gode". 
 
 Hawaiian government ; See ' 
 ernmenl ' ' . 
 
 Hawaiian hospitality; See "Hos- 
 pitality"
 
 358 
 
 Page 
 Hawaiian Houses; See "Houses". 
 Hawaiian Islands, Commercial 
 
 importance of 34 
 
 Description of 19 
 
 (See Each Island by name.) 
 
 Map of 33 
 
 Social conditions of 18 
 
 Hawaiian language; See "Lan- 
 guage". 
 Hawaiian Language, a copious 
 
 one 350 
 
 A poem in 350 
 
 Compared with others.. 347, 348 
 
 First printing in 6 
 
 Numerals named 353 
 
 Pronunciation of... 343, 349, 351 
 
 Remarks on 346-354 
 
 Rules of grammar of 352 
 
 Social conditions, Reports by 
 
 Cook superficial 18 
 
 Specimen of idiom of 353 
 
 Spelling explained 41, 42, 43 
 
 Traditions same as Tahitian. 69 
 Warfare, Methods of; See 
 
 ' 'Warfare' '. 
 Weapons; See "Weapons". 
 Women; See "Women, Ha- 
 waiian". 
 Written, How formulated. .6, 351 
 Hawaiians: See "Natives". 
 
 Cleanliness of 45 
 
 Origin of.... 323, 324, 326, 327 
 Hebrew language compared with 
 
 Hawaiian 348 
 
 Heiau, Kamehameha's at Ko- 
 
 hala 290 
 
 Heiau at Kawaihae described .. 71, 73 
 
 Kanekaheilani 89 
 
 Haleotairi 89 
 
 Hina 88 
 
 Kauaikahaloa 88 
 
 Kuura 88 
 
 Kilauea 192 
 
 Mairikini 73 
 
 Ukanipo 97 
 
 Waipio 272 
 
 Heiau of Ahuena. at Kailua, de- 
 scribed 323 
 
 Honaunau described 124 
 
 Karepa in Puna 213 
 
 Oararauo at Kilauea 192 
 
 Pele in Hamakua 262 
 
 Wahaula at Pulana, described 203 
 
 Heiaus, Kona, described 
 
 88, 89, 91, 97, 124 
 
 Helmets, described 116 
 
 Herbs, Medical treatment with. . . 
 
 249, 250, 251 
 
 Hevaheva, high priest, advised 
 abolition of idolatry and tabu 
 
 95, 96 
 
 Appearance of in battle.... 118 
 
 Hieroglyphs 346 
 
 Hilea, Experiences at 155 
 
 Hilo, description of district 
 
 227, 257, 263 
 
 Market fair at 242 
 
 Ilihiu. Village of 297 
 
 History preserved in song 349 
 
 Hoakau, A Hawaiian Nero 274 
 
 Hoapiri, Chief 157 
 
 Page 
 Hokukano, Spring of water at, 
 
 Experiences at 97, 155 
 
 Ilolua, Game of between Pele and 
 
 Kahavali 220-223 
 
 Game of described 219-220 
 
 Holualoa, Kona, Experiences at.. 88 
 Honaunau; See "City of Refuge". 
 
 Described 12, 123, 124 
 
 Drunkenness at 129 
 
 Experiences at 129 
 
 Picture of 124 
 
 Population of 123, 130 
 
 Volcanic curiosity at. ... 130-132 
 Honokane Valley, Experiences at 285 
 
 Honokea Valley passed 285 
 
 Honolulu, Described, population, 
 
 shipping 27 
 
 Fort, Origin and status of. . 28 
 
 Geological description of.... 24 
 
 Weather record at, 1821-22. . 30 
 
 Honomalino, Experiences at .... 138 
 
 Honoruru, village in Puna 223 
 
 Honuaino, Kona, Experiences at.. 96 
 
 Honuapo, Description of 12 
 
 Primitive conditions at 151 
 
 Honuaula, Lava flow at 218 
 
 Hookupu, gift custom 317 
 
 Hopu, Thos., instructor at Kailua 
 
 48, 305 
 
 Horses in Hawaii 33 
 
 Horua (sledding) described. .219, 220 
 Hospitality, Customs described. . 286 
 Hawaii and South Sea island- 
 ers compared 259, 260 
 
 at Halawa 286, 287 
 
 at Honokane 285 
 
 at Kamaili 213 
 
 at Keei 106, 107 
 
 at Waimanu 277. 283 
 
 at Waipio 266, 276 
 
 and lack of at Kealakomo.. 
 
 197, 198, 201, 206 
 
 Lack of at Honaunau and 
 
 Keokea 123, 129 
 
 Houses, Ceremonies connected 
 
 with building 240 
 
 Hawaiian, Character, con- 
 struction, durability, di- 
 mensions, furnishings of. . 
 
 236, 
 
 238, 239, 240, 280, 281, 288 
 
 Housewarming customs 317 
 
 Hualalai, Ascent of, Active in 
 1823, Active in 1800.... 47, 53, 54 
 
 Height of measured 80 
 
 Land formed by last lava 
 
 flow from 308 
 
 Hula. Described 59, 78, 79, 80, 81 
 
 Picture of 75 
 
 Human Sacrifices, Described, » 
 Method of securing and offer- 
 ing 71, 
 
 73, 111, 112, 119, 185, 203, 323 
 
 By King Umi 272 
 
 Humuula, Village, Experiences at 258 
 Husband; See "Marriage", "Di- 
 vorce' '.
 
 359 
 
 Page 
 Idolatry, Abolition of. . . .6, 37, 94, 95 
 Abolition did not affect su- 
 perstition 11 
 
 Battle to restore in 1819.. 92 
 Native sentiment re abolition 
 
 of 150, 152, 210 
 
 Idol at Waipio 273 
 
 Idols, Carried in battle, Functions 
 
 of 117 
 
 Existing in 1823 89 
 
 Native beliefs concerning. . . 263 
 
 Picture of 323 
 
 Sundry Hawaiian, described 
 66-69, 118, 124. 126, 306, 325 
 Ihikaina, Chiefess of Honokane.. 285 
 Implements; See ''Tools''. 
 Incantations; See "Sorcerers". 
 Indians, Resemblance of Pacific 
 
 [slanders to 327 
 
 Infanticide, Effect of Christianity 
 
 on 247 
 
 In Society Islands. .244, 246, 329 
 Kamehameha's judgment con- 
 cerning 243 
 
 Prevalence, evidence and 
 causes of. .10, 32, 243-248, 329 
 
 Prohibited by Kuakini 247 
 
 Specific instance of 243 
 
 Inheritance of land. Law of . . . . 318 
 Inter-island; See "Shipping". 
 
 Travel described 
 
 56, 65, 305, 334-336 
 
 Inter-marriage; See "Marriage". 
 Interment; See "Burial". 
 Intoxicating liquor; See "Liquor". 
 Iolani, one of Kamehameha 2's 
 
 names 354 
 
 Iphiginia, Attempted capture of 
 
 ship 34 
 
 Iron, Natives possessed prior to 
 Cook's arrival 330 
 
 Javelins, described 110, 116 
 
 Journal of trip around Hawaii, 
 Author of American edition of 
 4, 6, 8 
 
 (If a word is not found under 
 "K", look under "T".) 
 "K" and "T", Alternative use 
 
 of 349 
 
 Kaahumanu, Rank of 313 
 
 Prayer by 336 
 
 Repudiates priestess of Pele 199 
 
 Kaahua, Village of 265 
 
 Kaalaala, District of, described.. 161 
 
 Kaawaloa, Description of 49 
 
 Experiences at 97. 104 
 
 Burial cave of Capt. Cook at 97 
 
 Kahaluu, Experiences at 90 
 
 Kahanaumaitai, Chief, Rank of. . 313 
 Kahnvari, Game of holua with 
 
 Pele 220-228 
 
 Kahekii (Kahekili O, king of Maui 
 
 at time of Cook 818 
 
 Kahilis described 276 
 
 Kahoolawe, Description of 22 
 
 Kahuku, Kan. Bluff, described 148 
 ana, Attempts of to cure dis- 
 ease 248 
 
 Kahuwai, village 228 
 
 Kai b kfl In OS I ii, Hawaiian for 
 
 the flood 
 
 Kaiana, Chief; See "Taiana". 
 Kaikioeva, Chief, a surfing expert 279 
 
 Rank of 313 
 
 Kailua, Churches at 9, 300. 305 
 
 Description of 45-47 
 
 Fort at, described 76 
 
 Life at, ili si ribed 44, 50 
 
 Picture of 77 
 
 Population of 12, 53 
 
 Kaimu, Description, Population 
 
 of 12, 209, 210 
 
 Experiences at 204 
 
 Great earthquake at 208 
 
 Kairi, Idol of, described 118 
 
 Kakuiapoiwa, a chief 336 
 
 Kalahiki, Description of country 
 
 south of 138 
 
 Experiences at 132-137 
 
 Kalakua, one of Kamehameha's 
 
 queens 56 
 
 Kalaloa, Village of 301 
 
 Kalaimoku, alias Wm. Pitt, a 
 chief, a surfing expert .... 279, 312 
 
 Acting as a judge 320 
 
 Discussion of Cook's death 
 
 by 100 
 
 Dwelling of, described 240 
 
 Favored missionaries 38 
 
 Independence of 134 
 
 Opposed Kamehameha, now 
 
 Prime Minister 28, 109 
 
 Statement of in re infanti- 
 cide 243 
 
 Treatment of captives by. . . . 121 
 
 Regent of Islands 29 
 
 Kalaipahoa, Poison God 68, 69 
 
 Kalakua. Kamehameha's Queen. . 
 
 56, 336 
 
 Kalama, Village of 103 
 
 Kalapana, Village of 204 
 
 Kalehu, Village of 144 
 
 Kamahoe. a chief 157 
 
 Kamaili, Experiences at 213 
 
 Kamakau, Ability to write 328 
 
 Character of, References to. . 
 
 12, 49-52, 97, 104 
 
 Rani of 313 
 
 Kamapiikai, Tradition of Vo 
 
 of 296, 297 
 
 Kamapuaa; See "Pele". 
 
 A god, Tradition of, Combat 
 
 with Pele 186, 196 
 
 Kamehamaru, Queen of Kan 
 
 mehs II. Biography of, , , B 10 8 12 
 BTamehameha I ; Bee ' ' Keoua 1 '. 
 
 Bathing pool of 89 
 
 British Government prest ati d 
 
 a schooner to 38 
 
 Cession of Islands to Great 
 
 Bl lain by :; 5 
 
 Conquest "f < 'aim by 27 
 
 Death, Hate of 6 
 
 (if. I ) i s | p ■ i s i ( i . . ' i Of ■ 270 
 
 Engineering work by, Tales 
 
 ,,f 289, 290, 806 
 
 Eruption >>f Bualalai .•■tupped 
 
 47 
 
 :is 
 
 a of, a' Kohala 
 
 i «,r Wahaula buill ■ 
 ii,,n.- of; Land origii 
 owned by 388, 289
 
 360 
 
 Page 
 
 Judgment on infanticide.... 243 
 
 Lands divided by 31-1 
 
 Message from after death. . . 
 
 275, 276 
 
 Miomioi, a friend and favor- 
 ite of 286-288, 290, 295 
 
 Present at murder of Ke- 
 oua 157 
 
 Present at death of Capt. 
 
 Cook 35 
 
 Prophecv concerning 107 
 
 I and II, Sacrifices by 273 
 
 Spelling of name explained. . 41 
 War of with Kauikeouli (Ki- 
 
 wala-o) 105, 108, 109 
 
 War of with Keoua. . . . 156, 157 
 
 Wives many, children few. . 329 
 Kamehameha II; See "Rihoriho". 
 Abolition of idolatry and 
 
 Tabu, by; Motives for... 95 
 
 Accesion to throne 6 
 
 Biographv and signature of 
 
 336-340 
 
 Death of on trip to England 7 
 
 Description of 58 
 
 First King of all Islands. . . . 314 
 
 Ilousewarming by 317 
 
 Letter from, to Ellis 353 
 
 Revolt of Kekuaokalani 
 
 against 92 
 
 Suite of, on trip to England 343 
 
 Kamehameha III, successor of 
 
 Kamehameha II 340 
 
 Kana. Tradition of adventures of 296 
 
 Kanenuiakea, a god 296 
 
 Kaoreioku, brother of Keoua.... 157 
 
 Kapaau, Village of 295 
 
 Kapapahanaumoku, Kingdom after 
 
 death 275 
 
 Kapapala, Description of, Expe- 
 riences at 154, 161 
 
 Kaparaoa, Village of, Idols at... 306 
 
 Kapauku, Experiences at 150 
 
 Kapihe, Accompanied King to Eng- 
 land 314, 343 
 
 Kapiolani, Mission station located 
 through influence of, Character 
 
 of 103 
 
 Statement in re infanticide.. 243 
 Visit of to Kilauea, Defiance 
 
 of Pele by 199, 200 
 
 Kapoho, Description of 218 
 
 Kapua, Experiences at, Descrip- 
 tion of 138, 139 
 
 Kapuahi, a cave dwelling, de- 
 scribed; Experiences at 167 
 
 Kapulena, Village of, visited.... 265 
 
 Kapuokaahi village. Visit to.... 226 
 Karaimoku; See "Kalaimoku". 
 
 Ksrepa, Heiau of 213 
 
 Kau, General description of 
 
 139, 140, 143, 144 
 
 Kauaea, Village of, Experiences at 214 
 Kauai; See ' 'Kaumualii' '. 
 Kauai, Cession of to Kameha- 
 meha 29 
 
 Description of 28 
 
 Population of 29 
 
 Fort at 29 
 
 Language of, Difference in.. 29 
 
 Rebellion on 29 
 
 Page 
 Kauikeouli; See "Kamehameha 
 
 III". 
 Kauikeouli, alias for Kiwala-o... 108 
 Scene of battle with Kame- 
 hameha 105 
 
 Kaukau. a Chinese word 291 
 
 Kaula, Description of Island of . . 30 
 
 Kaulanamauna, boundary of Kau 
 
 Kaulu, Description, Experiences 
 
 at 145 
 
 Kaumualii; See "Kauai". 
 Kaumualii, a chief; Pronuncia- 
 tion of 44 
 
 Champion surfer of the Is- 
 lands 280 
 
 Missionaries favored by ... . 6 
 Submission of to Kameha- 
 meha, Death of 29 
 
 Kaura, Valley, Experiences at... 262 
 Kauruheimarama, accompanied 
 
 King to England 343 
 
 Kawaihae, Description of 12 
 
 Heiau at, described 71 
 
 Jno. Young visited at 266 
 
 Keoua murdered at 157 
 
 Salt ponds at 299 
 
 Size of 300 
 
 Warm springs at 299 
 
 Kawelohea, Legend of 150 
 
 Kea, name of whites who lived in 
 
 mountains 331 
 
 Keaau, village, described 224 
 
 Keahialaka, Village of, Experi- 
 ences at 214 
 
 Kealakekua, Foreigners at before 
 
 Cook 331 
 
 Geology and burial caves of 106 
 Kealaala, Volcanic Activity at... 200 
 Kealakomo, Experiences and con- 
 ditions at 196, 201, 202, 264 
 
 Travelers from act as guides 167 
 Keanakakoi crater, Activity of. . 195 
 Keapuana, a cave dwelling, de- 
 scribed; Experiences at 168 
 
 Kearakaha, Village of 264 
 
 Keauhou described, Population of 91 
 Keawaiti, a port of refuge, Ex- 
 periences at 141 
 
 Keawe, House of; See "Hale o 
 Keawe' '. 
 
 Keaveaheuru, a chief 157, 158 
 
 Keeaumoku, Mourning for 135 
 
 Murder of Keoua by. . . .157, 158 
 Warrior of Kamehameha; fa- 
 ther of Kaahumanu 108 
 
 Keei, Battle of 105, 156 
 
 Experiences at 105 
 
 Kehena, Village of described. . . . 21Js 
 Kekauluohi, Kamehameha' s 
 
 daughter 56,' 57 
 
 Keakealani, Queen of Hawaii.... 89 
 Kekuanaoa, accompanied King to 
 
 England 314, 343 
 
 Kekuaokalani, Battle of, to re- 
 store idolatry 92 
 
 Monument to 94 
 
 Keokea, Experiences at 129
 
 561 
 
 Page 
 Keopuolani, Illness of, Pravers 
 
 for 336 
 
 Mother of Kamehameha II, 
 Attitude toward mission.. 
 
 38, 58, 59, 60, 62, 329 
 
 Mourning for 135, 136 
 
 Mourning customs changed 
 
 from death of 137 
 
 Keoua, Army of destroyed by 
 
 volcano 156, 186, 187 
 
 Son of Kalaiopu, brother of 
 
 Kauikeouli 156 
 
 "War and surrender by, Mur- 
 der of 156-158 
 
 Governor of Maui 58 
 
 Kuakini's wife, Tapa mak- 
 ing by 82, 83 
 
 Keouohana, Village of 211 
 
 Kiholo, Kamehameha's fish pond 
 
 at 300 
 
 Kilauea, Approach to described. . 
 
 169, 173 
 
 Described 173-194 
 
 Ellis party first whites to 
 
 visit 4, 193 
 
 Eruption of, destrovs army 
 
 156, 186, 187 
 
 Pictures of 174, 175 
 
 Traditions and mythologv of 
 
 183-186, 207 
 
 Kilauea-iki described 192 
 
 Kinao, Governor of Puna, Dis- 
 cussions with 214 
 
 King, Capt., Account of death of 
 
 Capt. Cook by 99 
 
 Description of Loa and Kea 
 
 by 194 
 
 Status of women in Hawaii, 
 
 by 2S4 
 
 King; See "Law", "Kings of 
 Hawaii", "Kaumualii". 
 
 Chief magistrate 320 
 
 Chiefs consulted by on im- 
 portant matters 321 
 
 Etiquette toward 313, 314 
 
 Land reverts to, on death of 
 
 holder . 318 
 
 Perquisites and monopolies 
 
 of 316, 317 
 
 Supreme authority of 
 
 312, 314, 319 
 
 flings of Hawaii; See "Kameha- 
 meha I", "Kamehameha II", 
 "Kamehameha III". 
 Kings of Hawaii at time of Capt. 
 
 Cook named 313 
 
 Kings of Hawaii named and de- 
 scribed: 
 
 Akea 274 
 
 Hoakau, a Hawaiian Nero.. 274 
 
 Kahekii 818 
 
 Kumaraua, of Molokai 68 
 
 Miru 274 
 
 Riroa 27 
 
 Rono 1"". L01. 217 
 
 Taraiopu, King at time of 
 
 Cook 98, 313 
 
 Taeo 
 
 Umi 272-274 
 
 Kiwala-o; See "Kauikeouli". 
 
 Kohala, Description of 28 
 
 Kamehameha's home and 
 
 surrounding Bt 288-290 
 
 Page 
 Koloaha, Tillage of, visited. . . . 263 
 
 Kona, Cultivation in 48 
 
 Description of. . . .87, 91, 92, 139 
 
 Population of 139 
 
 Konane, Game of described 158 
 
 Koreamoku, originator of art of 
 
 medicine 250 
 
 Kou trees, Numerous 
 
 ..47, 58, 60. 63, 89, 203. 209, 213 
 
 Kuahiro, a god 204, 272 
 
 Kuakini, alias Jno. Adams, Gov- 
 ernor of Hawaii, Appreciation 
 
 of by missionaries 9, 45 
 
 Church built by, at Kailua.. 305 
 Description of domestic cus- 
 toms of 45, 78-80 
 
 Discussions with.. 79, 81, 85, 323 
 
 Housewarming by 317 
 
 Infanticide discussed by.... 243 
 
 Prohibited by 247 
 
 Portrait of 79 
 
 Rank of 313 
 
 Kuamoo, scene of battle in sup- 
 port of idolatry 92 
 
 Kukailimoku, Kamehameha's war 
 
 god 72 
 
 Kukui tree, Uses made of... 281, 282 
 Kumaraua, King of Molokai.... 68 
 Kumuokapiki, Chief of "Waimea.. 301 
 Kupahua, Village of described.. "204 
 
 Labor, required of common people 315 
 Laborers, Custom regulating hire 
 
 of 319 
 
 Lae-Mano, a point formed by last 
 
 Hualalai flow 308 
 
 Lahaina, Description of 57, 63 
 
 Lahaina, Mission established at.. 21 
 Lanai; See "Ranai". 
 Land boundaries, how marked. . . 262 
 Land, Common people pass with 316 
 Disposition of on death of 
 
 holder 318 
 
 Divided among followers of 
 
 Kamehameha 314 
 
 Rent and taxes paid on.... 315 
 System described ..313, 314-319 
 Tax free in certain cases... 316 
 Tenure, Description and ef- 
 fect of 314, 316, 318. 322 
 
 Titles, Status of, in case of 
 
 war 120 
 
 Landslide, Great, at Laupahoe- 
 
 hoe 284 
 
 At Pololu 285 
 
 Language; See "Hawaiian lan- 
 guage", "Malay language"] 
 ' • M :i (1 a g a s c a r langUS 
 "South American langua 
 "Hebrew language", "Tahiti an 
 language", "Written langu 
 Different i Imilarltles 
 
 in groups ot Pacific 326 
 
 Hawaiian, Remarks on . . ■ • 
 
 6, 88, i" 18, B LI 
 
 Eawaii, Same as Tahltian . . B9 
 ■ i, com- 
 pared with otl 
 Lanial ea I a ■■ a at Kailua, da 
 
 Ibed, i'"i t at i 
 
 La Pi ron e, Will to Hawaii b 
 , 1 1 i I.,, Oanoe trip to 
 -j i i ,
 
 302 
 
 Page 
 Laupahoehoe, Hamakua, Descrip- 
 tion of formation of by land- 
 slide 284 
 
 Lava at Kilauea, described 191 
 
 Lava flow: See "Honaunau", 
 "Hualalai", ' 'Volcano' '. 
 
 Flow near Malama 218 
 
 Law; See "Courts", "Inheri- 
 tance", "Divorce", "Mar- 
 riage". "Penalties' ', "Tabu". 
 
 Traditional code of 317 
 
 Lawyers, none allowed 321 
 
 Laziness, principal cause of infan- 
 ticide 245 
 
 Legends; See "Traditions". 
 Life after death; See "Death, 
 Life after' '. 
 
 Belief of natives in 211 
 
 Liholiho; See "Rihoriho". 
 Liliha, accompanied King to Eng- 
 land 343 
 
 Liholiho; See "Kamehameha II". 
 Liquor, Distilled, Introduced by 
 
 foreigners 287 
 
 Made from cane, potatoes 
 
 and ti 129, 196 
 
 Lono; See "Rono". 
 
 Maaro, Chief of Waiakea 
 
 63, 224, 225, 227, 228, 
 
 233, 234, 241, 248, 249, 254, 313 
 Madagascar language, compared 
 
 with Hawaiian 347 
 
 Mahuka, Volcanic activity at... 200 
 
 Maika, Game of described 148 
 
 Makaaka, described, Experiences 
 
 at 159, 161 
 
 Makanau, scene of final surrender 
 
 of Keoua 156 
 
 Makaena, village, Description of 209 
 Makoa, guide around Hawaii, de- 
 scribed; Picture of 86, 87, 154 
 
 Gets drunk 129 
 
 Address of to natives. . .211, 264 
 
 Malama, Lava Flow at 214, 218 
 
 Malanahae, Village of, visited... 265 
 Malav language, compared with 
 
 Hawaiian 347, 353 
 
 Manahini, White visitor to Ha- 
 waii before Cook 331 
 
 Manienie, Village of 264 
 
 Manona, wife _ of Kekuaokalani, 
 
 dies with him 93 
 
 Monument to 94 
 
 Marin, Lava flow at 218 
 
 Market fairs held at Hilo 242 
 
 Maro, worn in battle 116 
 
 Marquesas, Customs of compared 
 
 with Hawaiian 253, 258-260 
 
 English mission at 36 
 
 Voyages to 296, 297 
 
 Marriage; See "Polygamy". 
 Marriage and divorce, Customs in 
 
 re 328. 329 
 
 Between royal families of 
 Hawaii and Tahiti, pro- 
 posed 70 
 
 Of relatives prevalent 329 
 
 Mauae, guide, Reception to. Chant 
 
 to 141, 143. 204-206. 211 
 
 Maui, Description of, Population 
 of 21 
 
 Page 
 
 Maukareoreo, a giant 89 
 
 Maunakea described 19 
 
 Legends of white men on . . . 304 
 Trip of Blatchley and Rug- 
 
 gles to 303 
 
 Trip of Goodrich to top of, 
 
 ^Description of 301-304 
 
 Wild animals on 303, 304 
 
 Maunaloa described. ... 19, 193, 194 
 
 Mechanics, Rank of 313 
 
 Medicine, Foreign, Native dispo- 
 sition towards 249, 250 
 
 Tradition of origin of art... 250 
 Meles; See "Songs". 
 Mercy, to vanquished. ... 11, 119, 120 
 
 Metcalf, Visit to Hawaii by 34 
 
 Miomioi, a friend and favorite of 
 Kamehameha, Reminiscences by 
 
 286, 288-290", 295 
 
 Mission station on Kauai 29 
 
 Established at Lahaina .... 21 
 Mission stations, Locations rec- 
 ommended 11, 12 
 
 Missionary, preaching to natives, 
 
 Picture of, Description of. .153, 307 
 Missionaries, American, Arrival of 
 and location of'in Hawaii.. 4, 6, 11 
 Chiefs friendly to; See Boki, 
 Kaahumanu. Kamakau. Ka- 
 mehamaru. Kapiolani, Kau- 
 mualii, Keopuolani, Kua- 
 kini, Maaro. 
 
 English to South Pacific 3, 4 
 
 First whites to visit Kilauea 4 
 
 Opposition to 38 
 
 Report of on trip around Ha- 
 waii 9 
 
 Sentiments of natives toward 235 
 Written language formulated 
 
 by 351 
 
 Moanalua, Salt Lake at, described 28 
 Mokini, temple built by Paao, 
 
 white priest 295 
 
 Mokuohai, scene of Kamehame- 
 
 ha's crucial battle 108 
 
 Money, Use of 315 
 
 Morokai described, Population of 23 
 
 Morokini, Description of 22 
 
 Mourning, Burning a badge of.. 137 
 Changes in custom effected 
 
 by Christianity 137 
 
 Customs 132-137 
 
 Customs of S. Pacific 134 
 
 For Keopuolani 135, 136 
 
 Song, Fine example of 135 
 
 Tattooing tongue badge of. . 136 
 
 Murder, Penalty for 318 
 
 Muscovy ducks in Kau 160 
 
 Musicians and dancers at Kailua 
 
 74, 78-80 
 
 Rank of 313 
 
 Mythology; See "Kilauea", t 
 "Pele", "Kamapuaa", "Tra- 
 ditions", "Religion". 
 
 Nahienaena, sister of Kameha- 
 meha 328 
 
 Nahoaarii, Hawaiian god 154 
 
 Kaihe, Character of, References to 
 12, 103, 157
 
 36 3 
 
 Page 
 Native tools: See "Tools". 
 
 Traditions: See "Traditions". 
 Houses; See "Houses". 
 Houses, compared with those 
 
 of Society Islands 236 
 
 Opinion of idolatry, Christi- 
 anity, tabu. .150, 152, 210, 211 
 Natives; See "Chiefs", "Com- 
 mon people", "Hawaiian". 
 
 Causes of decrease. .10, 235, 236 
 
 Ornaments of 146 
 
 Physical description of 32 
 
 Status of at Kau 145, 146 
 
 Status of at Honuapo 151 
 
 Naval battles described 115 
 
 Necklaces of bone and hair.... 117 
 New Hebrides, Superstitions of 
 
 similar to those of Hawaii.... 178 
 New Zealanders, Hawaiians iden- 
 tical with 326 
 
 Niihau, Cession of to Kameha- 
 
 meha, Description of 29 
 
 Mats, Description of 30 
 
 Kinole, described : source of re- 
 productive pebbles, source of 
 
 sling stones 158 
 
 Numerals, Hawaiian named 353 
 
 Xuuanu, Battle of described. ... 25-27 
 
 Valley described 24 
 
 Nuuhiwa; See "Marquesas". 
 
 Oahu. Conquest of by Kameha- 
 
 meha 27 
 
 Described, Population of. .23, 28 
 
 Oculists and surgery 250 
 
 Ohelos; See "Berries". 
 
 Ohelo berries, sacred to Pele . . . 173 
 
 Ohiokalani, name of N. peak of 
 
 Kilauea 205, 228 
 
 Oil; See "Kukui". 
 
 Olaa, Sandalwood collecting in... 227 
 
 Tapa produced at 203 
 
 Village and district described 226 
 
 O-o, agricultural tool, described. . 146 
 Opihikao, Village of, Experiences 
 
 at 213 
 
 Opiri. son of Paao, the white 
 
 priest 330 
 
 Oracles, Practise of in Hawaii.. 72 
 
 Orator, National, Office hereditary 321 
 
 Ordeals for trying accused 320 
 
 Origin of Hawaiians, Tradition 
 
 and probabilities of 
 
 323, 324, 326, 327 
 
 Orthographv, Hawaiian explained 
 
 40, 41, 42, 43 
 
 Ouli, Village of 301 
 
 Owawarua, Village of 291 
 
 Paao, a white priest; Traditions 
 
 of 295, 330 
 
 Pacific; See "Polynesian". 
 Pacific Islanders, Differences.... 826 
 Resemblance of to American 
 
 Indians 327 
 
 Traditions and probabilities 
 
 of origin of 
 
 ::•_';'., 82 1. B26, 327 
 
 Tabu peculiar to 291 
 
 Pahe, l lame of described 147 
 
 Pakarana, City of Refuge of. . . 27:', 
 ohaku, Kau, People of de- 
 scribed 1 45, 1 16 
 
 Page 
 Parker. American resident at Po- 
 
 lolu, Waimea 286, 301 
 
 Patani, Preaching at 142 
 
 Pauahi, wife of Kamehameha II. . 157 
 Pauepu, District of: White priest, 
 
 Paao, located at 295 
 
 Peace, Method of concluding. . . . 121 
 
 Ti an emblem of 197 
 
 Pearl Harbor, References to 23 
 
 Pebbles, Reproductive, of Ninole 158 
 Pele, Controversy with a priestess 
 
 of, at Hilo 228-230 
 
 Combat of with Kamapuaa. . 
 
 186. 196, 207 
 
 Defiance of by Kaahumanu 
 
 and Kapiolani 199 
 
 Game of Holua with Kaha- 
 
 vari 220-223 
 
 Priestess of. Vengeance 
 
 threatened by 198, 230 
 
 Traditions, Native fear of.. 
 
 11, 154, 164, 173, 
 
 178, 181, 183, 187, 198, 231 
 Worship of in Hamakua, 
 
 Heiau to 262 
 
 Pele's hair described 190 
 
 Penalty; See "Tabu, Violation 
 of". 
 
 Penalty for crime 318, 319 
 
 People: See "Common People", 
 
 "Chiefs". 
 
 Personal property, Insecurity of 322 
 
 Pestilence at the Islands 32 
 
 Petroglyphs described 346 
 
 Pets, dogs and pigs 162 
 
 Pickering, John, Hawaiian writ- 
 ten language based on plan by 6 
 
 Picture-writing described 346 
 
 Pigs as offerings 73, 185, 192 
 
 Tabu of 66 
 
 Pigs as pets 162 
 
 Piia, :i chief, Bank of 313 
 
 Po, Souls of dead went to 275 
 
 Polygamy, prevalent among chiefs 329 
 
 Poem, Specimen of chant 205 
 
 Poison god Kalaipahoa described 
 
 68-69 
 
 Pololu, Land slide at 285 
 
 Valley, described 285, 286 
 
 Ponahawai, village, visited 232 
 
 Ponahoahoa, Volcanic activity at, 
 
 Picture of 162-166 
 
 Population of Islands, Number 
 
 and cause:, of decrease 10, ^2 
 
 Central Kona 12, 91 
 
 Bfonaunau 180 
 
 Honokane 285 
 
 Honolulu 27 
 
 Kaalaala and Kapapala, thick- 
 ly set tie. 1 161 
 
 Kahoolawe 22 
 
 Kailna 12, 
 
 Kauai 29 
 
 noil !> I 
 
 Lanai 28 
 
 21 
 
 Niihau 29 
 
 Oahu 28 
 
 Waipio 274 
 
 Molokal 
 
 ui, King of ( liihu at time of 
 
 I ioV
 
 3G4 
 
 Page 
 Prayers; See "Sorcery", "Sor- 
 cerers' '. 
 Precipice trails along Hamakua 
 
 bluffs 285 
 
 Prickly pear in Kona 123 
 
 Priest, High, Hewahewa advised 
 
 ilition idolatry and tabu. .95, 96 
 
 Priests, abolished as a class 37 
 
 Printing, First in Hawaii 6, 38 
 
 Prisoners; See "Sacrifices", 
 
 "Slaves' '. 
 Pronunciation; See "Hawaiian 
 language, Pronunciation of".. 
 Property; See "Personal prop- 
 erty", "Land", "Common peo- 
 ple". 
 
 Puako. Village of 301 
 
 Puakokoki, Battle of, final defeat 
 
 of Keoua 156 
 
 Pualaa, Village of, Experiences at 217 
 Public assemblies, When held.... 321 
 Puhenehene, Game of, described.. 61 
 Pukalani, Village of, in Waimea . . 301 
 Pukohola, Heiau of described. ... 71 
 
 Puna, described 194, 195, 203 
 
 Punahele, Definition of term.... 313 
 
 Punaluu, visited 159 
 
 Punchbowl, Reference to 24 
 
 Pun o Kahavari hill described... 223 
 Puukapu, Village of, in Waimea. . 301 
 
 Rainfall of Islands 30-32 
 
 Ranai described, Population of... 
 
 22, 23, 57 
 
 Raspberries; See "Berries". 
 Real Estate; See "Land", "Land 
 tenure' '. 
 
 Rebellion on Kauai 29 
 
 To restore idolatry 92 
 
 Refuge; See "City of Refuge". 
 Religious beliefs; See "Gods", 
 ' 'Sacrifices' '. 
 
 Discussions and services, Ha- 
 
 waian 66, 69, 71-73, 
 
 90, 91, 97, 107, 210, 211, 
 226, 263, 274-276, 282, 283 
 Religious controversy with a 
 
 priestess of Pele 228 
 
 Discussion with three priests 
 
 217 
 
 Services at Heiau of Kawai- 
 
 hae described 71 
 
 Worship of Pele 262 
 
 Rent, Land. How payable 315 
 
 Reptiles, Absence of 33 
 
 Residence; See "Houses". 
 Resurrection, after death, Belief 
 
 in 274 
 
 Richards, Rev., References to.. 22, 63 
 Rihoriho; See "Kamehameha II". 
 
 Meaning of word 336 
 
 Robbery, Penalty for 319 
 
 Riroa, King of Hawaii 195, 273 
 
 Roads, Character of 266 
 
 Rono, a god, Cook thought to be, 
 
 Traditions of 100, 101, 217 
 
 Ruggles, Mr., Trip of to Mauna- 
 
 kea 303 
 
 Rum and diseases of foreigners 
 worse than Pele 230, 231 
 
 Page 
 Russian Fort built at Honolulu.. 28 
 
 Russian vessels at Honolulu 28 
 
 Russians, Trading salt with 299 
 
 Sabbath. Observance of by natives 
 
 62, 305-309, 323 
 
 Services, Picture of 307 
 
 Sacrifices; See "Human sacri- 
 fices' '. 
 
 By diviners prior to war. .111, 112 
 By Kamehameha I and II.. 273 
 
 In battle 119 
 
 Of animals Ill, 112 
 
 To volcano gods 185 
 
 Sale, Law of 319 
 
 Salt Lake at Moanalua described 28 
 Salt. Manufacture and use of in 
 Hawaii and Society Islands... 299 
 
 Ponds at Kawaihae 299 
 
 Trade in 28 
 
 Sandalwood collecting, in Kohala 
 
 295, 298 
 
 in Waiakea 227 
 
 In Waimanu 277 
 
 In Waipio 273 
 
 Sandalwood, tree, Preparation of 
 and trade in, described. ... 35, 227 
 
 Schools established 38, 305 
 
 Sea; See "Naval Battles". 
 
 Seashore, Why natives live at... 203 
 
 Sham fights as preparation for 
 
 war Ill 
 
 Shark god, Heiau to 67, 97 
 
 Sharks, Natives afraid of 280 
 
 Sheep in Hawaii 33, 304 
 
 Shipping at Honolulu in 1823... 27 
 Inter-island, Number and size 301 
 Supplies furnished to... 310, 311 
 
 Shoes, Substitute for 81 
 
 Sick, Indifference toward 233 
 
 Sickness, Incantations to cure... 248 
 Superstitions of natives in re 
 
 215, 249 
 
 Single combat, described 118 
 
 Singing at night, Custom of.... 258 
 Slaves, Defeated in battle became 
 
 120, 316 
 
 Slings described 110, 116 
 
 Stones obtained at Ninole.. 158 
 Social Customs; See "Customs". 
 
 "Chiefs". 
 Social Customs, Rank of Chiefs, 
 
 How decided 312, 313 
 
 Society, Rank in, Division of... 
 
 312, 313 
 
 Society Islands, Canoes made of 
 
 kukui in 282 
 
 English mission at 36 
 
 Hospitality at 286 
 
 Invasion of not contemplated 290 
 
 Surgery in 250 
 
 Traditions of Hades at.... 276 
 
 Use of salt in .' 299 
 
 Songs, History presented in.... 349 
 
 How formulated 349 
 
 Sorcerers, Status and powers of. . 
 
 215, 217 
 
 Sorcery to cure sickness ... .248, 249 
 Soul, Discussions with natives 
 concerning 274
 
 365 
 
 rage 
 
 South Pacific; See "Pacific", 
 "Tahiti', "Marquesas", "So- 
 ciety Islands". 
 
 Customs of compared with 
 
 Hawaiian 258-260 
 
 English mission in 36 
 
 Fisheries of compared with 
 
 Hawaiian 297, 298 
 
 South American languages com- 
 pared with Hawaiian- 347, 348 
 
 Spanish discovery of Hawaii, 
 
 Possible 330-333 
 
 Spelling, Hawaiian, explained. . . . 
 
 40, 41, 42 
 
 Spears described 116 
 
 Sports; See "Games". 
 
 Spouting Horn at Tairitii 142 
 
 Stewart, Rev., References to 
 
 22, 58, 59, 62 
 
 Strawberries; See "Berries". 
 
 Sugar Cane at the Islands 
 
 34, 48, 147, 150, 195, 218 
 
 Used as a food 170 
 
 Used for intoxicants 105 
 
 Sulphur beds at Kilauea. . . . 179, 180 
 Sunday; See "Sabbath". 
 Superstitions; See "Pele", "Ki- 
 lauea' '. 
 
 Superstitions, Re building houses 240 
 Re curing sickness . .215-217, 248 
 
 Re volcano gods 187 
 
 Prevalence of 11, 26 
 
 Similar to those of New 
 
 Hebrides 178 
 
 Supplies furnished to shipping. . 
 
 310, 311 
 
 Surf riding:, described 277-280 
 
 Surf canoeing, described 279 
 
 Surf, Missionaries canoeing thru 
 
 138, 140, 141 
 
 Surgery; See "Medicine". 
 
 Surgery, Practice of 250 
 
 Sweet potato liquor 129 
 
 Swimming, Adeptness of natives 
 at 278, 335 
 
 (If a word is not found under 
 "T", look under "K".) 
 "T" and "K", Alternative use 
 
 of 349 
 
 Tabu, Abolition of, Motives of. . 
 
 37, 94, 95 
 
 Easv for chiefs and priests. . 293 
 
 Effect of abolition of 96 
 
 Effect of on women 95, 294 
 
 Instances of application.... 66 
 
 Length of term of 292 
 
 Meaning of, Practice of in 
 '■sia, Penalities for 
 
 breaking; 290-293 
 
 Opinion of natives re aboli- 
 tion of 150 
 
 Violation of punished by 
 
 burning 290, 293 
 
 Taeo (Kaeo), King <>f Kauai, 
 
 .slain in be t tie on ( (ahu 27 
 
 King of 'J'.-i M :i i ,- t t time of 
 Cook 313 
 
 Pa ge 
 
 Tahiti compared with Hawaii.... 19 
 
 Conditions in 253-255 
 
 Hawaiians came from 324 
 
 Intermarriage proposed with 
 
 royal family of 70 
 
 Origin and meaning of word 
 
 324, 326 
 
 Treatment of sick in 234 
 
 Traditions same as Hawaiian 69 
 
 Voyages to and from 
 
 296, 297, 327 
 
 Tahitian language, Peculiarities 
 
 of 351 
 
 Tahaurawe; See "Kahoolawe". 
 
 rahuata; See "Marquesas". 
 
 Taiana, Slain in battle of Nuuanu 27 
 
 Surrender of Keoua to 156 
 
 Tairi. a flying god 72. 90 
 
 Tairitii, Description of, Experi- 
 ences at 141 
 
 Talking at night, Custom of.... 258 
 
 Tapa. Coloring, Methods of 84 
 
 Cultivation, manufacture and 
 varieties of described. . 82, 
 84, 159, 162, 168, 203, 269 
 Taraiopu, King at time of Cook. . 
 
 18, 98, 213, 313 
 
 Taro described, Methods of cook- 
 ing 144, 160 
 
 Tattooing compared to that of 
 New Zealand, Tahiti and Mar- 
 quesas 151, 152 
 
 The tongue badge of mourn- 
 ing, Method of 134, 136 
 
 Tauai; See "Kauai". 
 Taumuarii ; See "Kaumualii". 
 Taureonanahoa, rock pillars off 
 
 Kona 138 
 
 Tax free, Certain lands are. . . . 316 
 Taxes paid on land, No fixed... 315 
 Taxation, Different forms of . . . . 317 
 
 Oppressive 311 
 
 Teavemauhiri, King of Hawaii... 213 
 Tenure; See "Land". 
 Teporiorani, King of Oahu at 
 
 time of Cook 313 
 
 Teeth, Knocked out on death of 
 
 chief 133 
 
 Temple; See "Heiau", "City of 
 Refuge' '. 
 
 Theft, Penalty for 318 
 
 Thurston, Rev. Asa, Adventure of 
 
 at Kilauea 182 
 
 Canoeing through the surf.. 
 
 138, 141 
 
 References to It. 
 
 47, 48, 49, 51, 123, 300, 301 
 
 Return of to Honolulu 322 
 
 Trip of around Hawaii 4, 7 
 
 Tiha, King of Kauai at time of 
 
 Cook 332 
 
 J'i plant, described; Uses of for 
 liquor, food, building, clothing 
 
 105, li>()-198 
 
 robacco pipe used as an orna- 
 ment 146 
 
 Produced in Hawaii 47 
 
 Smoking, Emblem of hospi- 
 tality 266 
 
 Toll for crossing Wailuku Ki\.r J 1 1
 
 366 
 
 rage 
 Tools; See "Adze", "Oo". 
 
 Bamboo knives 260 
 
 Used by natives 239 
 
 Tongue, Tattooing, badge of 
 
 mourning 136 
 
 Tournaments of sports are popu- 
 lar 148 
 
 Toumoarii, Village of 264 
 
 Tour around Hawaii, The start 
 
 from Kailua 86 
 
 Towaihae; See "Kawaihae". 
 Trade winds, Influence of on 
 
 emigration 327 
 
 Trading, Customs of 319 
 
 I n tcr (list rict at Hilo 242 
 
 With shipping 311 
 
 Tradition, Hawaiian, a specimen 
 
 of 222 
 
 Medicine, Origin of art of. . 250 
 
 Paao, a white priest 295 
 
 Voyage of Kamapiikai . .296, 297 
 Traditions, Adventures of Kaua.. 296 
 
 Of the Flood 333 
 
 Of foreigners in Hawaii prior 
 
 to Cook 295, 330-333 
 
 Of game of Holua between 
 Pele and Kahavari .... 220-223 
 
 Of Mauna Kea 304 
 
 Of Kawelohea 150 
 
 Of a giant 89 
 
 Of Hades 101, 275, 276 
 
 Of Kilauea 184-186 
 
 Of origin of Hawaiians 
 
 323, 324, 326, 327 
 
 Of voyages to Marquesas and 
 
 Tahiti 296, 297 
 
 Traditional code of law 317 
 
 Trans-Pacific Voyages; See "Voy- 
 ages' '. 
 Travel; See "Inter-island travel' ', 
 "Tahiti, Voyages to and from". 
 
 Trial by ordeal 320 
 
 Of causes, Methods of.. 320, '321 
 
 Truce,, Ti used as a flag of 197 
 
 Tyerman, Rev. Danl., Visit of to 
 Hawaii, 1822 7 
 
 Dlumaikia. Game of; See "Maika". 
 Umi, King, Human sacrifices by. . 
 
 272-274 
 
 Uri, god of the sorcerers 217 
 
 Vancouver, Visits of to Hawaii.. 
 
 14, 35, 41, 42 
 
 Vegetables of the Islands 
 
 33, 34, 48, 195, 198 
 
 Volcano; See "Kilauea", "Hua- 
 lalai", "Ponahoahoa". 
 
 Activity at Kealaala and Ma- 
 
 huka 200 
 
 Conditions in Kau 140 
 
 Eruption at Malama 214 
 
 Formations near Kilauea, de- 
 scribed 170, 171, 172 
 
 Formations at Honaunau . .130-132 
 
 Native fears of 154 
 
 Y r oyages; See "Inter-island 
 travel' '. 
 
 Long, in canoes 327 
 
 To Marquesas and Tahiti. . . . 
 
 296, 297 
 
 Page 
 Waiakea, Village and district de- 
 scribed 225 
 
 Waimanu, Description of 12 
 
 Wahnea, District of, visited.... 265 
 
 Waipio, Description of 12 
 
 Whaling industry, Beginning of 35 
 Wahaula, Heiau of described. . . . 203 
 
 Wahinepio, Rank of 313 
 
 Waiakahiula, Village, Visit to.. 224 
 
 Waiakea, Description of 12, 225 
 
 Bay, Description of 251 
 
 Population of 253 
 
 Products of 252 
 
 Village of in Waimea 301 
 
 Waikaloa, Village visited 301 
 
 vVailau, visited 159 
 
 vVailuku River, Hilo, described; 
 
 Toll for crossing 241 
 
 vVaimanu, Description of 
 
 12, 277, 280, 282 
 
 Waimea, District, Population, De- 
 scription of 265, 301 
 
 Waiohinu, described, Experiences 
 
 at 146, 147 
 
 Waipio Valley, described 
 
 12, 266, 273, 274 
 
 Celebrated in song and tradi- 
 tion 274 
 
 Picture of 267 
 
 Population of 274 
 
 War; See "Battle", "City of 
 Refuge", "Cloaks", "Dress", 
 "Fofts", "Helmets", "Land 
 titles", "Naval battles", 
 "Peace", "Prisoners", 
 "Single combat", "Weapons", 
 ' 'Women' '. 
 
 Addresses prior to 112, 113 
 
 Camps in preparation for... 114 
 Cities of refuge used in time 
 
 of t»li 
 
 Diviners consulted before en- 
 gaging in Ill, 112 
 
 Fought in daytime 115 
 
 God; See "Idols". 
 
 Messengers 114 
 
 Method of preparation for. . . 
 
 113, 114 
 
 Shirkers, Punishment of . . . . 
 
 113, 114 
 
 Prevalence of 32 
 
 Status of, Defeated in.. 119, 120 
 
 Ti leaf a flag of truce 197 
 
 Warfare, Hawaii a scene of con- 
 stant 109 
 
 Hawaiian method of 110 
 
 Warm Springs at Kawaihae 299 
 
 Water pools at the volcano.... 179 
 
 Scarcity of 
 
 . . . .45, 50, 130, 138, 139, 141 
 
 Stream of at Keaau 
 
 Stream of at Waiohinu.... 146 
 
 Waterfalls on Waipio bluffs 
 
 277, 285 
 
 Water Games; See "Games, 
 Water", "Surf riding", "Canoe 
 
 surfing", described 278 
 
 Water melons at Kalehu, Kau.. 144 
 Weapons; See "Slings", 
 ' 'Spears' '.
 
 367 
 
 Page 
 
 Weapons, Differences in groups of 
 
 Pacific 326 
 
 Hawaiian, described 
 
 110, 116, 288 
 
 Weather record, Honolulu, in 
 
 1821-22 30-32 
 
 SVhaleships at Hawaii, Numbers 
 
 of, Trading by 35, 36, 311 
 
 White priest, Tradition of a.... 295 
 Whites in Hawaii prior to Cook. . 
 
 295, 304, 330-333 
 
 In Hawaii in 1823; See 
 "Parker", " Young, 
 John' '. 
 Wiliwili tree, Description and 
 
 uses of 166 
 
 Windows, none in houses 238 
 
 Women, Hawaiian, participants in 
 
 battle 93, 109 
 
 Status of in Hawaii 222 
 
 Status of under tabu.... 95, 294 
 
 Page 
 
 Work; See "Labor". 
 
 Worship; See "Pele", "Relig- 
 ious worship". 
 
 Wrestling, practiced by Hawai- 
 ians Ill 
 
 Written Language, Hawaiian 
 
 How formulated 6, 38, 351 
 
 Hieroglyphics discussed .... 346 
 
 Writing, Advance of among Ha- 
 waiians 328 
 
 Yams, raised on Kauai and Nii- 
 
 hau 30 
 
 Young, John, Capture of 35 
 
 Description of 71 
 
 Relations with mission 
 
 266, 298, 322 
 
 Traditions stated by 324
 
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