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 MEMOIRS 
 
 OF 
 
 FATHER RIPA 
 
 DURING 
 
 THIRTEEN YEARS' RESIDENCE AT THE COURT OF PEKING 
 IN THE SERVICE OF THE EMPEROR OF CHINA j 
 
 SELECTEO AND TRANSLATED FROM THE ITALIAN 
 
 BY FORTUNATO PRANDI 
 
 NEW EDITION 
 
 Mm + ^H^ia 
 
 REPRINTED IN CHINA 
 19 3 9 
 
MEMOIRS 
 
 FATHER JR I P A, 
 
 THIRTEEN YEARS' RESIDENCE AT THE COURT OF PEKING 
 IN THE SERVICE OF THE EMPEROR OF CHINA; 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF THE FOUNDATION OF THE COLLEGE FOR THE EMJCATTON 
 OF YOONG CHINESE AT NAlLES. 
 
 SELECTED AND TRANSLATED FROM THE ITALIAN 
 
 By FORTUNATO PRANDI. 
 
 NEW EDITION. 
 
 LONDON: 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 
 
 1855. 
 
(y IpM^v. <M^ 
 
( Hi ) 
 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 The following pages are a condensation of the most inte- 
 resting portions of Father Ripa s ' History of the Chinese 
 College/ published at Naples in 1832, in three volumes 
 octavo. For any amusement or instruction that the reader 
 may derive from their perusal, he will be indebted to Sir 
 Woodbine Parish. But for him, Father Ripa's work, like 
 those of several other modern Italian historians, of far 
 greater merit, would never, perhaps, have been known in 
 this country. Sir Woodbine Parish had himself intended 
 to publish it in English, connected with the map of Peking, 
 which he obtained at the Chinese College at Naples. 
 Other more important avocations having prevented him 
 from executing his intention, the task has fallen to the share 
 of the actual translator. The original title has not been 
 retained, because the present abridgment is more intended 
 to give the passages relating to China, than those con- 
 cerning the institution to which the Italian work is espe- 
 cially devoted. 
 
 \ It may perhaps not be uninteresting to the English 
 reader to know that it was from Father Ripas foundation 
 that Lord Macartney obtained two interpreters for his 
 
 W5742S9 
 
( v ) 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Early Life— An Impressive Sermon— Duty of a Confessor— Resolution to 
 enter the Church — Mysterious Vision — Order to proceed to China — 
 Departure for Rome— Sojourn in the Ecclesiastical College . Page 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Pilgrimage to Loreto — Roman Police — Inhospitable Monks — St Chiara's 
 Heart — Return to Rome — Mission to Capradosso — Vendetta — Extraor- 
 dinary Reconciliation 7 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Departure for China — The Pope's farewell Gifts — Scene at Bologna — Awful 
 Visitation at Brixen — Detention at Cologne — Disguise — Arrival in Lon- 
 don — English Women — Drawing Lots for a Saint . . .13 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Setting sail for Bengal — Loss of Luggage — Flying-fish— The Christening — 
 Rigid Observance of the Sabbath — Catching a Shark — Climbing to the 
 Main-top — The Cape of Good Hope — Conversions aboard . . 20 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 The Mouth of the Ganges— Ignorance of a Monk— Recruiting Missionaries 
 —Advice to Authors— Sun- Worshippers— St. Thomas's Prophecy— The 
 Transmigration of Souls— A Woman Exorcised . . • .25 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Departure for Manilla— Miraculous Escape — Preaching in earnest— Cardinal 
 de Tournon's Imprisonment in Macao— His Death— The Population of 
 China— Order to Paint for the Emperor 30 
 
vi CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Departure for Peking — The Candle-Hills — Chinese Porters — Navigation of 
 the River Nan-kiang-huo — Sacrifices — Fishing-Birds . . Page 37 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Dangers of Medical Practice — Missionary Pride — Foundlings — Maho- 
 medans 42 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Introduction to the Emperor — The Ko-tow — Climate and Clothing — Abun- 
 dance of Game — Chinese Stoves — Description of Peking . . 47 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Oil-Painting — Chinese Delicacies — The New Year — Parental Authority- 
 Jealousy — Punishment by Proxy — Women's Feet — Visiting-Cards 54 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Sacrifice to Heaven — Fireworks — The Emperor's Palace near Peking — 
 Landscape Gardening— Chinese Flattery 60 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Survey of China, Tartary, and Corea— Order to engrave — Fall from a 
 Horse— Tartar Surgeon— Water Cure 65 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Great Wall— Mountain near Je-hol— Attempts to engrave— Description 
 of Je-hol— The Emperor s Country Life 69 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 The Emperor's Retinue — The Little Hunt— Stag-hunting — Tiger-hunting — 
 Wrestling and Archery — Silence in the Camp . . . .74 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Chinese Letters— Imperial Condescension— The Christians in Danger — Con- 
 versions — Strict Discipline — The Crown Prince deposed — The Emperors 
 Sixtieth Birth-day 80 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Public Rejoicings — Provincial Deputations— Strawberries and Asparagus— 
 The First Pupil — Regard of the Chinese for their Beards — Russian 
 Priests Page 86 
 
 CHAPTER XV I. 
 
 Dread of the Plague — Death of Father Tilisch— Alarm among the Christians 
 — Firmness of the Emperor — His Avarice — Origin of the Chinese 
 College 91 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Chapels for Women — Chinese Jealousy — Don Pedrini arrested — Machina- 
 tions against the School — Lucio — John In withdrawn — His Father's 
 Death— His Return — A Dream 96 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Arrival of the Russian Embassy — Point of Etiquette — Imperial Manifesto — 
 Mutual Concessions 102 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Reception of Count Ismailof — Court Dinner — Eulogy of the European 
 Missionaries — Presents — The Emperor's Advice to the Czar . . 108 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 The Emperor in Bed — Life at Je-hol — A quid pro quo— Hard Living — Ill- 
 ness of Scipel 114 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Death of the Emperor Kang-hy — Funeral Rites— Punishment of two great 
 Mandarins 118 
 
 CHAPTER XXIH. 
 
 Exclusion of Europeans from the Imperial Palace — Plotting — Death of the 
 Emperor's Mother — Difficulties— Final resolution to depart . .124 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Permission to quit China — Farewell Px-esents— Departure from Peking — 
 Cheap Travelling— Variations of Climate — Arrival at Canton — Pecuniary 
 Difficulties — Supernatural Agency — Providential Occurrence . .131 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Setting Sail for England — Chinese in Trouble— Staying a Storm — Again — 
 Chinese Modes'y — Mr. Edmund Godfrey — A Substitute for the Compass 
 — Anonymous Liberality Page 137 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Casting Anchor at Deal — Importunity of Boatmen — Rapacity of Custom- 
 House Officers — National Monuments — Liberality of King George I. — Of 
 the East India Company's Directors— Of Mr. Edmund Godfrey — Sail- 
 ing for Leghorn 142 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 Arrival at Naples — St January's Blood — Permission to establish the Chinese 
 College — Reception of two Chinese Students • . . .147 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 Examination of two Chinese Students — Their Departure for China — Death 
 of John In — Flight of Lucio U. — His Arrest and Trial — His Evasion and 
 Recapture — Mysterious End 151 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 A Visit to the Chinese College at Naples founded by Father Ripa .157 
 
FATHER RIPA'S 
 
 EESIDENCE AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Early Life — An Impressive Sermon — Duty of a Confessor — Resolution to 
 enter the Church — Mysterious Vision — Order to proceed to China — 
 Departure for Home — Sojourn in the Ecclesiastical College. 
 
 In the year 1700, as I was strolling one day about the streets of 
 Naples in search of amusement, I came to the open space before 
 the Viceregal Palace just at the moment when a Franciscan friar, 
 mounted on a bench, began to address the people. I was only 
 eighteen ; but though so young, I was then leading a life which 
 I could scarcely describe without shocking the reader. Amid 
 all my vices, however it was fortunate for me that I always 
 listened with pleasure to religious discourses, not indeed with a 
 view to derive any profit or instruction from them, but merely 
 out of curiosity. The preacher took for his text these words of 
 the prophet Amos, " For three transgressions of Damascus, and 
 for four, I will not turn away the punishment thereof;" and he 
 proved that there were a certain number of sins which God 
 would forgive, but that beyond that number there is no salvation 
 for any one. From the proofs he passed to the morality of the 
 doctrine, and here he brought in the beautiful illustration of the 
 scales, which, when equally balanced, the smallest addition will 
 weigh down. " Thus," said the worthy father, " if when our 
 sins are equal to our counterpoise we commit one more offence, 
 the beam on which our lot is weighed will turn and fix our 
 eternal perdition ; and as we do not know when our scales are 
 balanced, if we transgress at the risk of such a punishment, we 
 deserve condemnation." 
 
2 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, i 
 
 This was not to me a mere figurative illustration, it was a 
 gleam of heavenly light by which I perceived the dangerous 
 path I was treading ; and methought I saw God himself me- 
 nacing me from above, while below the torments of hell lay 
 ready to receive me. On recovering from the horror I felt at 
 the sight of the danger to which I had so long thoughtlessly ex- 
 posed myself, I ardently thanked the Almighty for thus recalling 
 me to Himself, and full of repentance, I resolved to devote the 
 remainder of my life entirely to his service. "When the Fran- 
 ciscan had finished his impressive semion, to strengthen my 
 purpose I proceeded at once to the church of the great apostle 
 of India, St. Francis Xavier, which was close by ; and there, 
 having found a Jesuit, who, by the will of God, was preaching 
 On the same subject in the presence of the Host, I had the most 
 favourable opportunity of fulfilling my object. 
 
 At dusk I returned home, and as I began to consider how I 
 might best serve God, I felt inspired with a desire not only to 
 enter the Church, but to do something more than this, though 
 in spite of unceasing meditations I was unable to discover what. 
 I thought of entering several religious orders, but none came 
 up to my aspirations. I imagined that I should find peace in 
 the performance of the duties of a secular priest ; but this did 
 not satisfy the cravings of my heart : as one who is hungry, after 
 eating a moderate portion of delicate food, still longs for some- 
 thing more. This something more was, however, exactly what 
 I could not discover: but by degrees I conceived a strong wish 
 to found a new community of regular priests, although I was far 
 from comprehending the character of such an institution. I 
 said nothing of this to any confessor, because I was so ignorant 
 in religious matters, that I did not know that even in the path 
 of virtue it is necessary to have a guide. In this state of igno- 
 rance I lived for eight months, now confessing to one priest 
 and now to another, without ever meeting with any one who 
 took any pains to direct my way. A fault, by the bye, for which 
 those confessors who merely listen to sinners without endeavour- 
 ing to point out to them the vocation for which they are fitted, 
 will have to account to God. Fortunately, however, I made 
 the acquaintance of Don Niccolo Vinaccia, who recommended 
 me to read the Filotea of St. Francois de Sales, by which I per- 
 
chap, i.j AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 3 
 
 ceived the necessity of having a spiritual guide : and on the 10th 
 of May, 1701, at the suggestion of Don Niccolo, I confessed for 
 the first time to Father Antonio Torres, of the Order of the 
 Pious Labourers, to whom I avowed my desire to enter the 
 Church, and implored his advice. This benevolent man, as was 
 his custom, had held me clasped in his arms ; but on hearing my 
 prayer, he suddenly drew back, opening his arms, and fixed his 
 eyes on me for some time without uttering a word. Then em- 
 bracing me again with transport, but without asking any ques- 
 tion, as confessors are wont to do in order to ascertain the 
 vocation of their penitents, he exclaimed, " Yes, my son ; take 
 holy orders, and henceforward I will be your father in God;" 
 and happy has it been for me that he has been my spiritual 
 director ever since. 
 
 With the approbation of this holy father, I entered the Church 
 on the 26th of the same month ; and having been enrolled in the 
 congregation of the Holy Mary of Purity. I began the duties of 
 active life, doing my best to promote the salvation of those 
 around me. But I felt all the time that I was called to some- 
 thing else, and my desire to institute a new religious community 
 became more and more strong. To the glory of God, for it is 
 our duty to acknowledge his wonderful works, I must relate 
 what then befell me with reference to this institution. 
 
 In consequence of indisposition, I was obliged to go with an 
 other young priest, who was very ill, .to the Montagnola for 
 change of air. We remained there about six months. My 
 companion was an excellent young man, and as I devoted some 
 attention to my spiritual improvement, I may venture to say 
 that, thanks to his good example, my time was piously spent. 
 One day, as my friend was at prayers in his room, and I in mine, 
 I was seized with an ardent desire to retire to some place where 
 I might acquire the knowledge necessary to an ecclesiastic, 
 when all at once a clear and audible voice thrilled through my 
 soul, saying, u to Rome." 
 
 I was struek with awe ; and whilst, absorbed in thought, I 
 wondered at the mysterious sound, a motley multitude of things 
 floated before my mind, not in corporeal or spiritual forms, but 
 in a purely intellectual manner which I cannot describe. It 
 was then impressed upon my mind that the institution I was so 
 
 B 2 
 
4 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. i. 
 
 anxious to establish was to consist of secular priests, wholly re- 
 moved from worldly cares, and exclusively devoted to prayer, 
 study, and preaching; and that in order that nothing might 
 divert them from these pursuits, another class of ecclesiastics, 
 like the Pious Labourers, should minister to their temporal 
 wants. That, as to dress, those of the first class should wear a 
 habit different from that of any other religious community ; with 
 no hood or cap on their head, but with some other covering ; 
 not with shoes or sandals, but shod in another fashion. This 
 vision was short, but it made such an impression on my mind, 
 that although it took place more than thirty years ago, I re- 
 member it as distinctly as if it had happened but yesterday. 
 
 On the completion* of my twenty-third year, by the express 
 command of Father Torres, I repaired to Salerno to be ordained. 
 The day before my departure, when I went to take leave of him, 
 he bade me on my return begin my novitiate as Pious Labourer ; 
 and although I answered that I felt no inclination to such a 
 vocation, he insisted on my obeying him unreservedly. I there- 
 fore conformed to his will ; but whilst, as I journeyed on, my 
 mind dwelt on my being thus obliged to become a Pious La- 
 bourer, though I had the greatest veneration for that religious 
 order, I felt so sad and depressed, that I could scarcely walk. 
 However, being determined to obey Father Torres, I waited 
 upon him as soon as I came back to Naples, and requested an 
 order of admission to my novitiate. He had returned from 
 Rome only the day before, and was surrounded by a number of 
 his penitents. The moment he saw me, he said, " Good morning 
 to you, good man ; prepare for China." 
 
 I was surprised, and wondered what he could mean ; for I had 
 never heard any thing about China. Perceiving this, Father 
 Torres added, that China was a nation of idolaters, who, from 
 want of labourers in the Gospel, lived in the darkness of 
 heathenism ; that Clement XL, the reigning Pope, with a view 
 to remedy this evil, had recently attached to the Propaganda a 
 college for the instruction of European ecclesiastics in the 
 Chinese language, that they might carry the light of the Holy 
 Gospel to those benighted heathens, and that accordingly his 
 Holiness had commanded him to send some of his penitents to 
 Rome for that purpose. 
 
chap, i.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 5 
 
 As Father Torres spake these words, the mist which filled my 
 mind vanished, and I now, greatly to my wonder, perceived that 
 this was the very service to which God had called me. When 
 we were left alone, I asked him whether he had spoken in jest 
 or in earnest, as in the latter case I would go to China willingly. 
 " Whether you will or not, to China you shall go," he replied. 
 
 " How then can I pass my novitiate with you, if I am to enter 
 the college at Rome in order to go to China ?" said I. 
 
 At first he did not understand me, for he had forgotten that 
 he had ordered me to become a Pious Labourer ; but after I 
 had reminded him of this, he answered, M Pious Labourer ! 
 Pious Labourer ! God has destined you for the Chinese mission." 
 
 This made me perfectly happy ; and I walked home so ele- 
 vated in spirit, that I scarcely felt the ground I trod on. 
 
 On the 26th of November, 1705, I set out for Rome with 
 Don Gennaro Amodei, a Calabrian priest, who also had been 
 proposed by Father Torres for the Chinese mission. We reached 
 our destination on the 30th, and were kindly received by our 
 superiors, and by the Pope, to whom they presented us. Our 
 apartments in the Propaganda not being yet ready, we took up 
 our quarters at an inn ; but as it is not decorous for ecclesiastics 
 to dwell in places of this description, and moreover, as we had 
 no money to pay the landlord, we resolved to seek refuge in the 
 Ecclesiastical College, erected by Innocent XII. for the pur- 
 pose of rescuing houseless priests from the dangers of lodging- 
 houses. We still however had to pay about twenty shillings a 
 month for our board and lodging ; and as we had nothing to- 
 wards making up this sum but the five pence a-day we got for 
 the mass, I was obliged, with great shame and reluctance, to ask 
 alms in order to provide the remainder. 
 
 That I might reduce my expenses as much as possible, 1 
 mended my own clothes, washed my only shirt at night, and 
 even slept on a mat ; owing to which I have been dreadfully 
 tormented with rheumatism ever since. In this distress we pe- 
 titioned his holiness for some assistance, and he allowed us ten 
 shillings a month, which was just enough to meet our wants. 
 Being aware how important it is to lead a methodical life, during 
 our stay in the Ecclesiastical College we apportioned different 
 hours of the day for study, prayer, and all other occupations j 
 
6 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. i. 
 
 and in the evening, after a rigid self-examination, we confessed 
 to one another, Don Amodei kneeling before me, accusing him- 
 self of his faults and temptations, and kissing my feet ; and I 
 afterwards going through the same holy duty with him. Don 
 Amodei was a most excellent and pious young man, gifted with 
 every virtue, and distinguished by a purity of mind which lie 
 guarded with the greatest solicitude ; but unfortunately he some- 
 times allowed his religious zeal to carry him too far, insisting, in 
 spite of his very delicate constitution, in living on bread and 
 water, and subjecting himself to all sorts of mortifications. 
 
chap. u.J AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Pilgrimage to Loreto— Roman Police — Inhospitable Monks — St. Chiara's 
 Heart — Return to Rome — Mission to Capradosso — Vendetta — Extraor- 
 dinary Reconciliation. 
 
 One day about this time, as we were praying before the Host, 
 beseeching God to grant that our apartments in the Propaganda 
 might soon be ready, we were both inspired with a fervent desire 
 to go on a pilgrimage to Loreto, for the purpose of imploring 
 the favour of the Holy Virgin. After obtaining the permission 
 of our superiors, and the benediction of the Pope, we set out 
 on our journey, 
 
 The first day of our pilgrimage, as we approached Castel 
 Gandolfo singing canticles, at which Don Amodei was very ex- 
 pert, a gentleman on horseback overtook us, and being edified 
 at our behaviour, pressed us to make use of his horse. On our 
 resolutely declining the offer, he insisted that we should at least 
 stop at his house. We did so, and he gave us a sumptuous 
 supper and comfortable accommodation. 
 
 We were not so fortunate the next evening at Civita Castel- 
 lana, in the hospital destined for pilgrims, where we could 
 obtain no supper, and had to sleep on a paillasse, without sheets 
 or blankets. 
 
 At another place on the road, of which I have forgotten the 
 name, we entered a shop to buy some food ; and whilst we waited 
 to be served, we saw a man cautiously open a closet, and place 
 two pistols in it, unobserved by the master. Shortly afterwards 
 some constables came in, went straight to the closet, took out 
 the pistols, and arrested the cheesemonger on the pretence of his 
 keeping prohibited arms. The poor fellow repeatedly protested 
 his innocence, but to no purpose. They handcuffed him, and 
 took him to prison. Having witnessed the transaction, we imme- 
 diately offered, in the presence of the constables, to give evi- 
 dence in behalf of the prisoner, but thev took no heed of whit 
 
8 FATHER RIPAS RESIDENCE [chap. n. 
 
 we said. Our words, however, had more weight with the prelate 
 who governed the place, and the injured man was released, 
 whereupon he came, with all his family, to thank us for having, 
 by the interposition of God, saved him from such imminent 
 danger. 
 
 At the beginning of our pilgrimage we walked about twenty 
 miles a-day ; but as Don Amodei grew weaker and weaker, and 
 was in a state of constant fever, we spent forty days in a journey 
 which otherwise might have been completed in less than a fort- 
 night. Besides his baggage and my own, I was often obliged to 
 support him, hanging by my neck, for considerable distances, 
 especially up-hill. At last he became so faint, that in a wood 
 near Rieti he dropped to the ground, saying that he could no 
 longer continue his journey, although we were on level ground, 
 and only two miles from a place of rest. My distress may be 
 easily conceived, and I was under the necessity of leaving him 
 alone whilst I went for assistance. Not far from the spot I 
 found a cottage, but the moment I knocked at the door I was 
 surrounded by dogs, who growled and barked at me with great 
 fury ; and a peasant who was close by, taking me for a thief, 
 also assailed me with stones and abuse. I had the greatest diffi- 
 culty in persuading him that I was no thief, but a priest who 
 came to implore his aid in behalf of a dying man. At last I 
 succeeded, and he came with a donkey to convey my friend to a 
 convent, on arriving at the gate of which we had to ring the 
 bell for half an hour before anv one appeared. A monk then 
 came out in a rage, and exclaiming, " Oh ! it is you, is it, who 
 have been ringing so much ? " he banged the door in our face. 
 
 We were thunderstruck at such treatment; and while con- 
 sulting what we should do, the wretch of a monk again opened 
 the door, giving us, in an unglazed plate, a few drops of vinegar, 
 with two pieces of bread, so black that I had never seen the 
 like. On my saying that we were provided with victuals, but 
 implored shelter, he interrupted me with saying, " You may 
 take it, if you please ;" and again slamming the door in our 
 faces, he disappeared. 
 
 We then went into the church of the convent to recommend 
 ourselves to God, and await in prayer some effect of his divine 
 providence. Fortunately some very humane and devout ladies 
 
chap, n.l AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 9 
 
 came in, who, seeing the exhausted state of my companion, 
 began to talk with us, expressing deep compassion, and asked 
 why we did not go into the convent for refreshment and repose. 
 Whilst I answered their questions, there appeared in the pres- 
 bytery a friar with a candle in his hand, whom those ladies 
 pointed out to us as the Father Guardian of the convent. I im- 
 mediately went up to him, and begged him to grant us shelter 
 for the night ; but the moment he perceived me he ran away, as 
 though I had been the Evil One, without paying the least atten- 
 tion to my words. Shortly afterwards, however, the same monk 
 who had treated us so roughly at the door came to take us to a 
 cell on the ground-floor, where he gave us a miserable supper. 
 On our telling him that we had some food in our wallet, and 
 that we only wanted a light by which to read our prayers, he 
 reprimanded us severely for our supposed neglect in having de- 
 layed the performance of our duty to God until it was so late. 
 
 We had not yet recovered from our mortification when it 
 pleased God to comfort us by sending to our cell a page and a 
 servant from the ladies who had spoken to us, bringing with 
 them an excellent supper. Immediately after our meal I went 
 to thank our benefactresses for their charity ; and I found them 
 under the porch of the church, seated at a sumptuous table, 
 making good cheer with the father guardian and some other 
 friars of his order. The next morning before our departure, we 
 were desirous of expressing our gratitude to his reverence for 
 the hospitality he had granted us, but although we searched 
 about the convent for a long time, we could not find either him 
 or any of his friars. 
 
 After suffering many hardships, which I will not stop to de- 
 tail, .we at last arrived at Loreto, where we visited the Holy 
 House and various other sanctuaries. Among these, that of 
 Montefalco deserves particular notice ; for it contains the corpse 
 of St. Chiara in such a state of preservation that her hands and 
 face are as fresh and ruddy as though she were alive. We adored 
 her heart, which was cut open, and in which, with great asto- 
 nishment, we observed, in bas-relief, the implements of the 
 passion of our Lord, and our Lord himself on the cross. I must 
 not omit to say, that whilst I lay under a rock, awaiting my turn 
 for reading mass in the chapel where St. Francis of Assisi re- 
 
10 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. ii. 
 
 ceived from God the remission of his»sins, a large serpent fell 
 from above close to^ my face, but immediately crawled avay 
 without doing me any harm. 
 
 On our return to Rome, after a pilgrimage of forty days, Don 
 Amodei, being more dead than alive, went into the infirmary of 
 the Ecclesiastical College ; and after a severe illness, the physi- 
 cians sent him to Naples to recover his health. 
 
 Being left alone in Rome, I applied myself assiduously to the 
 study of moral theology ; and at Lent, after passing the examina- 
 tion required, I was sent to preach at Capradosso. Among 
 various edifying cases which I witnessed in the course of my 
 mission, the following shows how God, in his ineffable goodness, 
 was pleased, by means of my youthful ardour, to compose a 
 deadly feud which distracted a whole family:— 
 
 An old man of that place, with six of his sons, had for several 
 years sought the life of a relative who had murdered his seventh 
 son. Neither the exhortations of several ecclesiastics nor the 
 authority of Cardinal Barberini and other distinguished per- 
 sonages who had interposed, had been sufficient to reconcile 
 them. The unfortunate murderer wandered day and night about 
 the mountains and forests to escape from his pursuers. Various 
 persons informed me of this circumstance, and solicited me to do 
 my utmost to pacify the family. The fugitive himself, accom- 
 panied by several of his friends, all in arms, came down from 
 the mountains under cover of the night, to entreat me to the 
 same effect. 
 
 I waited till Easter, when I knew that his uncle and cousins 
 would come to confession. The latter did, one after the other, 
 come to my feet, and I exhorted them to peace. They all re- 
 plied that they bore no hatred in their hearts to the assassin, and 
 that they were ready to forgive him, if the permission of their 
 father, in whose" power they were, could be obtained. Last of 
 all, the father came to confession ; and after I had admonished 
 him at great length, he told me that he did not entertain any 
 resentment against his nephew, but that he wished justice to take 
 its course. I at once understood his object in this subterfuge, 
 and therefore commanded him to repeat the Lord's Prayer, which 
 he did, not suspecting my intentions. When he came to the 
 words, " And forgive us our trespasses as we forgive them that 
 
chap, ii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 11 
 
 trespass against us," J desired him to explain their force and 
 meaning ; whereupon, by the Divine grace, he burst into a flood 
 of tears. Having recovered his composure, he promised to 
 pardon and embrace his nephew, for the love of Jesus Christ, the 
 first time he should meet him. As, however, I feared that his 
 resolution might be a transient ebullition rather than a holy 
 purpose, I sent secretly to the fugitive nephew, directing him to 
 conceal himself in the belfry on a certain evening, when I in- 
 tended to preach upon the subject of love to our enemies, and if 
 in the course of the sermon I should call him, fearlessly to come 
 forward, accompanied by the rector and his other friends. 
 
 By the divine assistance, my efforts were crowned with the 
 happiest results. At about dusk, when I had finished my sermon 
 upon love to our enemies, at which all the injured family were 
 present, I intimated that the women might go home in peace, 
 and that the men only should remain to do penance. I then 
 caused the door of the church to be locked, and in a short dis- 
 course I exhorted them to self-castigation. After this, the 
 crucifix, as I had previously arranged, was brought out of the 
 sacristy, and borne between two lighted torches. At the same 
 time I repeated the most cogent arguments which I had used in 
 my sermon, and urged the congregation to put in practice what 
 they had heard, pardoning each other, and embracing in sign of 
 peace. Many who had been at variance then came and embraced 
 each other at my feet. Such was the emotion and the fervour 
 of the congregation that they were all in tears. Perceiving 
 among them the uncle of the assassin, 1 called him by name, and 
 he immediately came and threw himself at my feet. I asked him 
 in the presence of all whether he really forgave his nephew, and 
 he replied in a deliberate tone that he did. I inquired if he 
 promised this in the name of Jesus Christ, whose image he then 
 held in his hand ; and he answered in the affirmative. I made 
 him repeat this several times in a loud voice. Then I blessed 
 him, his family, and all his concerns, in the name of our Lord, 
 for the great satisfaction he gave to God, and to all the court 
 of Heaven, by granting pardon, for the love of Christ, to the 
 man by whom he had been injured ; and finally I asked him, if 
 at that moment his culpable nephew were on his knees to ask 
 forgiveness, for the love of Christ, how he would act ? He re- 
 
12 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, il 
 
 pHecl that he would gladly take him to his heart. I then made 
 the signal agreed upon, and the offender was conducted by the 
 rector into my presence. As soon as he was seen approaching, 
 the sobbing of the people increased. The old man was greatly 
 surprised at this, for he stood with his back to the entrance, and 
 did not see his nephew, who, however, the next moment fell at 
 his feet, craving pardon, for the love of Christ. At first the old 
 man stood motionless, struck with surprise. He seemed be- 
 wildered by the extraordinary scene, and knew not what to do. 
 I endeavoured to calm him : and, with the crucifix in my hand, 
 I reiterated my arguments to induce him to forgiveness, till, 
 urged by the grace that was working in him, he suddenly em- 
 braced his nephew, kissed and pardoned him, and gave him his 
 benediction. His example was instantly followed by his sons, 
 who, one after the other, sobbing and weeping, embraced their 
 cousin, while all the congregation, bathed in tears, blessed and 
 praised God. I ; 
 
chap, in.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 13 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Departure for China — The Pope's farewell Gifts — Scene at Bologna — Awful 
 Visitation at Brixen— Detention at Cologne — Disguise — Arrival in Lon- 
 don — English Women — Drawing Lots for a Saint. 
 
 Shortly after my return to Rome the rector of the Ecclesias- 
 tical College died, and I was appointed to succeed him. A .few 
 months after I had entered upon my new office the Pope received 
 the joyful intelligence that M. deTournon, whom he had sent to 
 China as apostolical commissioner, had been graciously welcomed 
 by the Emperor ; upon which his Holiness resolved to send him 
 the cardinal's hat by some missionaries. He therefore appointed 
 Dr. Funari, who was the parish-priest of San Giovanni de Fio- 
 rentini, in Rome ; Father Fabri Bonjour, an Augustine friar of 
 Toulouse ; Father Ceru, of the Chierici Minori of Lucca ; Father 
 Perrone, of the Order of the Mother of God ; my humble self, 
 then a secular priest from Evoli, in the diocesis of Salerno ; and 
 a gentleman of the name of Guarmani, who was to accompany 
 us as a surgeon. 
 
 Don Amodei, who was also a secular priest, was not included 
 in the list, in consequence of his being absent and in ill health ; 
 but the moment I informed him of this, he sent to Cardinal 
 Sacripante, the president of the Propaganda, a letter written with 
 more tears than ink, and so eloquently expressed that the Pope — 
 who, as well as the Cardinal, was greatly moved by it — imme- 
 diately directed him to join us. Upon his arrival, we were all 
 admitted to kiss the Pope's foot and to receive his paternal bene- 
 diction. After having solemnly exhorted us zealously to fulfil 
 our divine mission, his Holiness gave to each of us a silver medal, 
 with the indulgence in articulo mortis. He granted us also the 
 faculty of gaining plenary indulgence every month ; the favour 
 of a privileged altar once a-week ; the right of blessing five thou- 
 sand medals, crucifixes, or rosaries, with the usual indulgences ; 
 the privilege of confessing to one another during our voyage ; 
 
14 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. in. 
 
 the power of giving plenary indulgences in articulo mortis, not 
 attached to a crucifix, which might be lost, but to our own per- 
 sons ; and, lastly, the authority of deciding by majority of votes 
 all questions and doubts that might arise during our journey. 
 The cardinal's hat and the instructions of the secretary of state 
 were intrusted to Dr. Funari, with the injunction, that in the 
 event of his being prevented from fulfilling his mission, they 
 should be confided to the next senior member of the mission. 
 
 On the 13th of October we set out for London, in the hope of 
 obtaining our passage in one of the East India Company's ships. 
 At Bologna we went to the residence of a personage of great 
 distinction, and presented to him some letters of introduction 
 written in the name of his Holiness by the secretary of state : 
 this individual, after reading the letters, asked, with ill-dissem- 
 hk-d reluctance, what sort of assistance we wanted ; and Dr. 
 Funari gave him to understand that some alms to defray the 
 expenses of our mission would be gratefully received. At the 
 mere word alms he flew into a passion, and, in a manner not at 
 all becoming his station, loaded us with abuse, and drove us out 
 of the room as if we were impostors. I firmly remonstrated 
 against this treatment, asserted our respectability, and assured 
 him that we had only followed our instructions, as he must have 
 perceived by the letters ; and that we should immediately report 
 to our superiors the treatment we had received. We hail scarcely 
 returned to our inn before he sent us twenty sequins (about seven 
 pounds), with a message that he was fully satisfied as to our re- 
 spectability, and that we need not write to Rome. 
 
 From Bologna we went, through Mantua, to the famous city 
 of Trent, where I heard for the first time the sound of the Ger- 
 man language. Advancing farther, across the lofty mountains 
 of the Tyrol, we came to Egra, a small town in which they use 
 glass windows which do not open, and live in rooms lined with 
 boards and warmed with stoves. The next day we arrived at 
 Bolzano, where they bury their dead outside the church, in the 
 open air, fixing at the head of the grave a wooden cross, on 
 which hangs a vessel of holy water. Two days after tins we 
 reached Brixen : here, whilst celebrating mass in the church of the 
 Capuchins, Dr. Funari was seized with a fit of apoplexy, and, to 
 the great consternation and grief of us all, fell flat to the ground. 
 
chap, in.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 15 
 
 In consequence of this awful visitation he was obliged to return 
 to Italy, leaving the cardinal's hat and the accompanying papers 
 in the care of .Father Fabri Bonjour. 
 
 On the 15th of November we arrived at Inspruck, a small 
 but beautiful town, containing, among other curious things, some 
 bronze tombs, which are very remarkable. We then proceeded 
 to Metvolt, and thence to Augsburg, which we reached on the 
 19th, and where for the first time in my life I saw a priestess, or 
 wife of one of their Protestant ministers. The next morning we 
 started for Frankfort, where we arrived in safety, after seven 
 days' journey. The houses which we saw on the road are built 
 without foundations, the lower part of the walls consisting of 
 stones and mortar, while the remainder of the building is a com- 
 pound of mud and straw, held together by beams with small 
 pieces of wood woven between them. The church steeples are 
 built in the shape of round pyramids with very sharp taper 
 points, the lower part being in brick or stone work, the upper in 
 wood. 
 
 From Frankfort we went by water to Cologne ; and here we 
 received letters from the secretary of state, informing us that, 
 as the ship which was about to leave London for China could 
 not take us all on board, his holiness commanded Amodei and 
 me to go back to Rome. But as we heard at the same time that 
 this alleged deficiency of accommodation was a pretence, and 
 that, in reality, our recall had been caused by the calumnious 
 reports of one of our companions, we determined to vindicate 
 our conduct, and await at Cologne for further orders. It is 
 impossible to conceive how miserable I felt on being thus ex- 
 cluded from the mission which I had joined with such ardent joy. 
 My nights were perfectly sleepless ; during the day I did nothing 
 but weep, and was often obliged, whilst dining with my friends, 
 to quit the table and retire to my room to give vent to my grief. 
 Fortunately, Dr. Funari, whom divine providence, in its in- 
 scrutable designs, had separated from us so unexpectedly, arrived 
 at Rome most opportunely, and defended our cause. 
 
 Having, in consequence of his representations, received per- 
 mission to continue our journey, we disguised ourselves as lay- 
 men, and on the 23rd of December left Cologne for the Hague. 
 Here we found our companions, who, having been discovered to 
 
16 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. m. 
 
 be missionaries, were refused passports for England by the Eng- 
 lish ambassador. By the assistance of the Bishop of Munster, to 
 whom we were recommended by the Pope, Father Perrone, 
 Amodei, and I succeeded in obtaining passports under assumed 
 names ; and, on the 3rd of January, 1708, we sailed from Rotter- 
 dam for England. On the 7th we arrived safely in London ; 
 and the next morning we hastened to wait upon Signor Cornaro, 
 the Venetian ambassador, who received us with the greatest 
 kindness. Without losing any time, we went with Father Per- 
 rone and a gentleman of the embassy to solicit the East India Com- 
 pany for a passage to China in one of their ships ; but, as it was 
 strictly prohibited to take out any ecclesiastics, the Ambassador 
 sent to inform the Company that we were going to enter the 
 service of the Emperor of China — Don Amodei as a mathema- 
 tician, I as a painter, and Father Perrone as our servant. It was 
 indeed amusing to see Father Perrone standing before us two, 
 hat in hand, showing us all the marks of respect which servants 
 are wont to pay their masters. The directors, however, being 
 wary men, did not appear satisfied with this account, and said 
 they could believe that Amodei and I were laymen, but not 
 Father Perrone. His peculiar carriage and behaviour, his eyes 
 cast down, his hands continually in his sleeves, and other signs, 
 induced them to think that he must be an ecclesiastic. They 
 then asked the gentleman of the embassy whether Perrone was a 
 Jesuit, and on his answering that he was ready to swear to the 
 contrary, they granted us permission to sail in one of their ships, 
 which bore the name of Donegal, and was bound for Bengal. 
 
 After we had thus obtained our passage, our three compa- 
 nions, Fabri, Ceru, and Guarmani, who had joined us from 
 Holland, in like manner presented their petitions ; but, in spite 
 of the interest of the ambassador, they were several times re- 
 jected. Meanwhile Guarmani refused to proceed, on the pre- 
 tence that he was ill ; and the ambassador, having submitted 
 that permission was required for only two more, leave was at 
 length granted. 
 
 While we waited for the day on which the Donegal was ap- 
 pointed to sail, the news arrived that King James (the Pre- 
 tender), brother to the reigning Queen Anne, had left France, 
 with fifteen ships of war, for the purpose of recovering the king- 
 
chap, in.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 17 
 
 dom of Scotland, from which his father, James the Second, had 
 been forced to fly on account of his religion, and to seek refuge 
 in France. Queen Anne immediately gave orders that no Eng- 
 lish vessel should go out of port, under a heavy penalty ; and 
 that all Catholics then in the capital should be put in confine- 
 ment. Under these circumstances, the Ambassador desired us to 
 lose no time in going on board our vessel, as we had previously 
 obtained the passport, as well as the Queen's permission, and 
 that of the Company. 
 
 On the 11th of February we were hastily conveyed in a small 
 boat to the Donegal, which was lying at anchor in the river 
 Thames, at about twenty miles' distance. The Donegal was 
 only of 180 tons burden, and the berths were all full, there being 
 only the number required for the officers of the ship. In conse- 
 quence of this, I had my bed immediately under the beam of the 
 rudder, which, being violently moved from side to side by the 
 wheel, greatly terrified me in my sleep. But the greatest incon= 
 venience that I suffered, during the whole voyage, arose from 
 being always exposed to the view and the insolence of the sailors, 
 who were continually in this quarter of the vessel, eating, drink- 
 ing, singing, and playing, or else cleaning their arms, making 
 cartridges, and pursuing other employments of the same nature. 
 My bed being laid exactly over the powder-bin, I almost eveiy 
 day found it thrown into some corner, under the guns, casks, or 
 cables ; often soiled with beer or grog, and at times even covered 
 with vermin, some of the crew having lain upon it. I could, 
 however, have borne this and other miseries and annoyances in- 
 cident to a ship when in port, as every one should do who has 
 resolved to undertake the life of a missionary; but that which 
 was insufferable to me was, that close to my bed were the berths 
 of three officers, who, during the four months we remained in 
 the river, were frequently visited by their wives : those who 
 know what liberties English women allow themselves, may un- 
 derstand what a poor missionary must endure in being obliged 
 to remain day and night with such company. One of the women 
 was so barefaced in her actions, that no sooner was her husband 
 out of sight than she behaved in the most infamous manner. 
 
 All these disorderly proceedings, however, continued only 
 luring the four months in which the ship was lying at anchor : 
 
 c 
 
lg FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. hi. 
 
 for as soon as she had set sail, things were brought into such 
 strict order that, comparatively, the vessel bore the appearance 
 of a monastery. 
 
 Wishing to make choice of some tutelar saint who might be 
 our protector during the voyage, we assembled together, and 
 proceeded in the following manner. We agreed that each of us 
 should write down the name of a saint upon three separate slips 
 of paper, that these should be put into a box, and the saint 
 whose name should first be drawn three times should be our 
 patron. The first slip of paper drawn contained the name of 
 St. Joseph ; the second, the same name ; the third, that of St. 
 Paul; the fourth, again that of St. Joseph, who was thus de- 
 clared our tutelar saint. Having thus selected our patron, we 
 resolved to observe the following order of religious duties during 
 the voyage. In the morning, silent prayer, religious reading, 
 and self-examination, in private ; then the recital of the Priest's 
 Itinerary, the Litany of the Saints, a chapter out of the Mar- 
 tyrology, and one out of the Scriptures. On the afternoon of 
 every Thursday and feast-day, some spiritual reading, followed 
 by our individual observations and reflections, and by the recital 
 of the Litany of the Virgin. In the evening, after self-examina- 
 tion, if any one should find that he had transgressed against a 
 brother, he was to ask pardon in the presence of the others. On 
 Wednesdays and Fridays, a chapter of transgressions was to be 
 held, each confessing his sins, and praying the others, one by 
 one, to mention whatever failings they might have perceived in 
 him. We were also to hold meetings upon moral accidents, 
 eacli speaking by turns ; and whenever more than two of us were 
 together, the Latin language was to be employed. 
 
 Lent now drew near, and we held a meeting to determine 
 whether we should keep it or not. Our doubts upon the subject 
 arose principally from the circumstance that, as we were still 
 detained in the river, we had an allowance of fresh meat every 
 day ; and that, besides the inconvenience of cooking for our- 
 selves separately, we could get nothing but salt-fish and a little 
 soup. Fabri, Perrone, and Amodei were of opinion that we 
 should keep it ; Ceru and myself maintained the contrary. We, 
 however, yielded to the majority ; and accordingly we kept Lent 
 for about a week ; when, being convinced that the continuation 
 
chap, in."! AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 19 
 
 of such a diet would destroy our health, we unauimously re- 
 solved to desist. And this incident may serve as a warning to 
 others of our profession, to regulate their excessive zeal ; for 
 certainly God does not expect us to do anything which would 
 interrupt the execution of his direct commands. A religious 
 life, doubtless, requires many mortifications, but these must be 
 exercised with discretion ; and it would have been a culpable 
 imprudence in us if, by using such a regimen, we had rendered 
 ourselves incapable of fulfilling our important duties. 
 
 We were doomed to experience still further delays and dis- 
 appointments. On the evening of the 3rd of March there 
 arrived a boat, commissioned by government to press a part of our 
 crew for the Queen's immediate service ; and other ships, lying 
 at anchor around us, were treated in the same manner. This 
 was done for the purpose of manning thirteen vessels which were 
 to be sent against some ships that were hovering near the mouth 
 of the Thames, and supposed to be French privateers. Being 
 thus deprived of our sailors, we feared that our departure would 
 be delayed until another year ; and this fear was increased by 
 the news that the French ships conveying the Pretender had 
 arrived in Scotland, on which account the men-of-war which 
 were to have convoyed us were ordered against the French fleet ; 
 and, as no merchantmen could leave port, the wide bosom of the 
 Thames was soon crowded with vessels of every size. It seemed 
 as if another London had arisen from the waves. A wonderful 
 spectacle, which fully showed the great and destructive power 
 that the English possess upou the seas. 
 
 These vexations were soon followed by an event which alarmed 
 us all. The bishop of Ireland and his vicar-general, both friends 
 of ours, were arrested, together with our late companion Guar- 
 mani, in the middle of the street. Through the interest of the 
 Ambassador, the surgeon was released, but of the two ecclesiastics 
 we heard no more. Under these critical circumstances, we na- 
 turally feared for ourselves also ; and, in spite of all our miseries 
 aboard, we never for a moment quitted the vessel. Fortunately, 
 while we were thus afflicted, the pilot came on board with the 
 consoling intelligence that we were immediately to depart : and 
 on the 8th of the same month, which was Easter-day, we at last 
 set sail, with many other ships. 
 
 c 2 
 
20 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, rv 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Setting sail for Bengal — Loss of Luggage — Flying-fish— The Christening- 
 Rigid Observance of the Sabbath— Catching a Shark— Climbing to the 
 Main-top— The Cape of Good Hope — Conversions aboard. 
 
 Our voyage down the Thames and through the Chan no vas 
 extremely tedious. I will not attempt to state how often we 
 were becalmed or driven back by contrary winds ; or how often 
 after weighing anchor and setting sail we were suddenly obliged 
 again to suspend our course, lest the violence of the tide or a 
 gust of wind should force us against the sand-banks or shoals, 
 which are very frequent both in the river and the Channel. 
 Suffice it to say, that although we set sail on the 8th of April, 
 it was not until the 4th of June that we reached the open sea. 
 Amodei and I had soon another cause of vexation, in the loss of 
 our luggage ; but I must say, to the glory of God, that I was 
 soon reconciled to this privation. Nay, I fancied that I breathed 
 more freely, as though I had been relieved from an oppressive 
 burden ; and I felt like a bird which, freed from the constraint 
 of a cage, can spread its wings and rove where it pleases. Me- 
 thought I had just begun to be an apostle, and that, clad in a 
 ragged cassock, with the breviary under my arm and a crucifix 
 on my breast, I was about to wander through the vast regions of 
 China, preaching to those blind pagans the Holy Word of God. 
 
 When we had passed the twenty-seventh degree of latitude, 
 we began to see the flying-fish. Their wings are formed of car- 
 tilage like those of the bat, and extend to the base of the tail. 
 When pursued by other fish they fly in shoals out of the water ; 
 and those which alight upon ships, as they have no power to 
 take wing again, are easily seized by the sailors. Usually they 
 do not raise themselves more than three feet out of the water ; 
 but sometimes, when assisted by the action of the wind, or urged 
 by fear, they fly much higher. 
 
 On the 29th we passed the tropic of Cancer, and with a 
 
chap. iv. J AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 21 
 
 favourable wind entered the torrid zone. It is a custom in ships 
 going to India, that every one who for the first time passes the 
 two tropics, the Line, and the Cape of Good Hope, must under- 
 go the ceremony called u the Christening," or pay a fine to the 
 crew. Those who refuse to pay become the object of much ob- 
 loquy and many hard words from the sailors, and are tied astride 
 upon a piece of wood, on which they are drawn to the end of the 
 main-yard, and suddenly dipped thrice into the sea. If any of 
 the ship's boats have not passed the Line before, they are fined 
 three bottles of brandy. Our captain accordingly had to pay 
 six bottles for two boats. As to ourselves, having been kindly 
 informed that the crew would be satisfied with whatever we 
 might give, we contributed two shillings each. With the money 
 thus obtained, the men bought brandy and sugar to make punch, 
 of which they are particularly fond. I was told that those who 
 are accustomed to this beverage find it pleasant and wholesome. 
 
 As we drew near the Line, the heat increased very sensibly, 
 but not so much as we had expected ; for it is not true that 
 in the torrid zone the air and the water are as hot as fire, and 
 that every thing putrifies. The water turns blackish, and offen- 
 sive to the smell ; but it soon purifies itself, first however breed- 
 ing little worms, which afterwards become flies, as I was assured 
 by the surgeon and other persons on board. The captain had 
 given orders, that whoever should be absent from prayers on 
 Sunday, either morning or afternoon, should be deprived of his 
 share of bread and water. There were in the ship some sailors 
 who were Catholics, and did not attend ; but they were in no 
 way molested. It once happened that some of the sailors having 
 stayed away two or three times, were, by command of the cap- 
 tain, bound fast with cords, with their arms uplifted ; but one of 
 them to escape punishment said that he was a Catholic, and the 
 captain believing, or pretending to believe his assertion, ex- 
 empted him from punishment. In the afternoon, however, the 
 man appeared at prayers, and thus proved how easily he could 
 deny his religion. 
 
 The principal officers played almost every day at draughts, 
 but on the Sunday no one attempted it ; and many of those who 
 could read, might be seen during a great part of the day with 
 the Bible in their hands. One of the company who was em- 
 
22 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. iv. 
 
 ployed in drawing a geographical map, wishing to continue his 
 work on a Sunday, received a severe re rimand from the cap- 
 tain : such is the rigour with which these heretics observe the 
 Lord's day. 
 
 Not far from the Line, a fish was caught, which by the Eng- 
 lish is called a shark. It is frequently seen in the torrid zone ; 
 but almost always alone. We took about fifteen of these fish, 
 the largest of which was nearly nine feet in length, and propor- 
 tionably large. It was caught with a hook, baited with a great 
 lump of salt beef, of which they are ravenously fond. As he 
 was being drawn up out of the water his jaw was torn by the 
 hook, and he escaped ; but the bait being again thrown in, the 
 greedy animal, which I could not help likening to a relapsed 
 sinner, heedless of danger and in spite of the agony he must 
 have felt from the broken jaw, again gorged the beef, and was 
 caught. When he was pulled on deck, he made a desperate 
 struggle, and though a large piece of flesh was cut from his 
 back, he still continued to leap about ; so that in order to dis- 
 patch him, it was necessary to strike him repeatedly on the head 
 with a hatchet, and then divide his body into three parts. This 
 operation required much time and labour ; and those engaged in 
 it were often in great danger. 
 
 The animal had no scales, and was covered with a dark skin 
 like that of an eel, but as hard and rough as shagreen. When 
 it lay on its belly, it was impossible to discover its mouth or 
 eyes, which could only be seen when it was turned on its back. 
 Its mouth was disproportionately large, and furnished with three 
 rows of strong and sharp teeth. On opening its head, we found 
 two large white lumps like curdled milk, which the sailors care- 
 fully preserved, being, as they told me, an excellent specific for 
 the purposes of midwifery. Its blood was both cold and black. 
 When they are of a large size the flesh is tough, and they are 
 not good as food ; but we ate of the smaller ones, and found 
 them tender and good The manner in which this animal swims 
 is curious, for when it opens its wing-like fins, it appears broader 
 than it is long. No less strange is the way in which it prepares 
 to seize the bait, being forced to turn upon its back, as the upper 
 jaw of its enormous mouth overhangs the under one. 
 
 The second mate told me ? that he had found in the belly of 
 
chap, iv.l AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 23 
 
 one which he had taken, the entire hide of a cow with its horns. 
 Another officer, called Jim, assured me that a young man, while 
 swimming round the ship, was attacked by one of these fish, 
 which bit the middle of his body completely through, and carried 
 away one half. To this the captain added, that he had found in 
 the belly of one of them the body of a sailor, which had been 
 swallowed twenty-four hours before, while he was swimming 
 near the ship. The bones of the man were in process of diges- 
 tion, and could be easily broken ; but the most extraordinary 
 circumstance was, that a knife, which the man had in his pocket, 
 had become flexible, and could be bent like a piece of paper, In 
 the sharks which we caught, nothing was found but some fish of 
 about three feet in length, partly digested and partly entire. 
 
 These fish take great care of their young, but in quite a 
 different manner from all other known animals. When they 
 perceive them to be in danger, they open their mouths and re- 
 ceive them into their bellies, from which they cast them forth 
 again when the danger is past. This the captain and others 
 affirmed to be a fact which they themselves had witnessed. 
 
 On the 27th of July, through the favour of God and the pro- 
 tection of the glorious St. Anne, we crossed the Line with a pros- 
 perous gale. We unanimously joined in repeating a Te Deum, 
 thanking the Lord for having granted us so easy a passage. A 
 few days afterwards, the wind continuing propitious, we passed 
 the Tropic of Capricorn, and thus entered the southern tem- 
 perate zone. It is a custom on board English ships, that who- 
 ever for the first time climbs to the main-top, is there bound 
 fast till he pays a fine to the sailors. It accordingly happened 
 that the first surgeon, seeing some sailors and supercargoes climb 
 to that part of the rigging, which they perhaps had done to en- 
 snare him, not being aware of this custom, immediately climbed 
 after them. He had however hardly arrived at the place, when 
 he was suddenly seized by the sailors and secured tightly with 
 cords, amid shouts of laughter, nor was he released till he agreed 
 to pay the fine. The same joke was afterwards practised upon 
 one of the supercargoes, but on his proving satisfactorily that 
 he had already been fined in a former voyage, he was let off. 
 
 On the 6th of September we entered the port of Good Hope, 
 which is very beautiful and of considerable extent. The country 
 
24 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. iv. 
 
 belongs to the Dutch, but it is also inhabited by many French 
 Protestants who were expelled from their country by Louis XIV. 
 There were besides many Germans and Flemings, amongst 
 whom were several Catholics who lived without any spiritual 
 assistance. Having found them cold and wavering in the faith, 
 I bade them all return to Europe. At the end of a fortnight 
 we again set sail for Bengal. A few days afterwards we saw a 
 whale ; but all that I was able to learn of this huge animal was, 
 that it could not be of the same species as that which swallowed 
 the prophet Jonas, for its throat was so small that it would 
 scarcely have allowed an egg to pass down it. In the Indian 
 Ocean, the scurvy made dreadful havoc on board our ship, and 
 though we missionaries had hitherto endeavoured to conceal our 
 real character from the heretical company among which we had 
 been thrown, yet on this occasion we deemed it our duty to cast 
 off all disguise, for the eternal salvation of three of the crew, 
 who were Catholics, but had for several years wallowed in sin, 
 completely neglecting their religious duties. 
 
 On the 1st of January, 1709, one of the sailors, whom the 
 scurvy had reduced to a state of extreme debility, fell into the 
 sea. The boat was immediately lowered, and every effort made 
 to save him ; but to no avail. I was exceedingly grieved at this 
 accident, for the poor fellow had been disposed to abjure his 
 heresy, and we had agreed that as soon as we landed I should 
 confess and receive him into the bosom of the true Church. We 
 dared no* do this on board, lest we might be observed, espe- 
 cially as, owing to my ignorance of the English language, the 
 confession must have taken place through an interpreter, and 
 consequently with closed doors, in order to avoid discovery and 
 punishment. Whilst still sorrowing for this loss, I was informed 
 that an English youth, who was the son of a great London 
 merchant, finding himself brought nearly to his end by the same 
 fearful disease, was also anxious to abjure his religion and receive 
 absolution at my hands ; but the Devil, who reigns among those 
 heretics, kept them constantly about the bed of the patient until 
 he died, leaving me bitterly disappointed. 
 
chap, v.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 25 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 The Mouth of the Ganges — Ignorance of a Monk— Recruiting Missionaries 
 —Advice to Authors — Sun- Worshippers — St Thomas's Prophecy — The 
 Transmigration of Souls — A Woman Exorcised. 
 
 On the 1st of February we at last entered the mouth of the 
 Ganges, amid general exultation. In ascending the river, my 
 companions being still laid up with the scurvy. I one day stood 
 alone in a corner of the vessel reading my breviary, which from 
 prudential motives was bound in white, and looked exactly like 
 a common book. While thus employed, I suddenly heard a 
 voice close by, inquiring in Portuguese whether I was a priest. I 
 turned round, and on seeing an Indian youth, about fifteen years 
 of age, who had come to meet us with other merchants from 
 Calcutta, I reproved him in a severe tone. Perceiving that I was 
 afraid to discover myself, he told me that he was a Catholic : in 
 proof of which he crossed himself and then eagerly proffered 
 his services. It was by no accident that this youth found me 
 out. He was sent to us by Divine Providence, which perceived 
 that, being perfectly friendless in that country, with shattered 
 health and exhausted funds, we could not have reached our des- 
 tination without an act of its special assistance. Having learned 
 from this young man tliat the Augustines, for whom we had a 
 letter from the General of the Order, had a house in the neigh- 
 bourhood, I proceeded thither as soon as we arrived at Cal- 
 cutta, leaving my companions behind. On reaching their abode, 
 I was introduced to an old monk, who was deaf, and ignorant in 
 the extreme ; but a good sort of man withal. He took my letter 
 and affected to read it ; but as he had no knowledge of Latin, he 
 could make nothing of it. Being desirous to know the name 
 and surname of the Father-General, he turned to me, giving him- 
 self an air as though he had understood the whole, and pointing 
 at the signature, he said, " What villainous writing ! pray de- 
 
26 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. v. 
 
 cipher this signature for me." When he had heard the name 
 and surname of the Father-General, he betrayed his ignorance 
 3till more, by asking me whether he was the Father-General, or 
 the Father- General in Chief; and I, adapting my words to his ig- 
 norance, assured him that it was actually the Father-General in 
 Chief, whereat he expressed himself greatly pleased. He after- 
 wards inquired whether I was really sent by St. Peter, and on 
 being answered in the affirmative, he conceived a great opinion 
 of me, and did all in his power to forward my wishes. 
 
 As the reader will no doubt be surprised at the ignorance of 
 this monk, I will tell him how such things come to pass. The 
 Most Serene Kings of Portugal being very anxious to main- 
 tain and extend our Holy faith in these regions, decreed that all 
 their officers and sailors who on passing thither might feel dis- 
 posed to take holy orders, should be allowed to follow their in- 
 clination without any impediment. The harvest being abundant 
 and the reapers scarce, when a Portuguese vessel arrives at Goa, 
 the missionaries of different religious orders go on board and call 
 out aloud whether there is any one who will join them. Among 
 such numbers there is always some one, who having in a moment 
 of danger vowed to reform, or hoping to live more comfortably, 
 answers the call; and thus "many of those missionaries are very 
 ignorant, and some of them very vicious, which is still worse ; so 
 that, far from contributing to the propagation of our Holy reli- 
 gion, they do exactly the reverse, by bringing it into contempt. 
 
 A few days afterwards we were invited to dine with Mr. Uar- 
 neby, an Irish gentleman, who with great generosity had granted 
 us three places gratis on board a ship which he was freighting 
 for Manilla. Among various things that he did for our enter- 
 tainment, he produced Leuilles' work on Bengal, and pointed 
 out a great number of ludicrous blunders with which that book 
 abounds. Many years afterwards I enjoyed together with se- 
 veral of my fellow-missionaries a similar amusement, in picking 
 out the absurd statements inserted in a certain "-Account of the 
 Clnnese Empire." Authors are thus liable to ridicule or blame, 
 if, when writing without a due knowledge of the subject of which 
 they treat, they adopt indiscriminately all they hear. I there- 
 fore always warn my juniors never to attempt any thing of 
 the kind before they have lived in a country long enough to 
 
chap, v.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 27 
 
 understand it fully, or can at least obtain their information from 
 persons who are at once enlightened and trustworthy : and in 
 the event of their being called upon to take part in some im- 
 portant transaction or controversy, I recommend them to make 
 themselves masters of the language of the country, and to take 
 every possible precaution against erroneous impressions. 
 
 One morning as I walked beside the Ganges, I observed a 
 considerable number of men and women bathing promiscuously, 
 but with edifying behaviour ; and among them I saw a man who 
 held a looking-glass in one of his hands, turning his face towards 
 the sun, whilst with the other hand he threw the water upon his 
 body, describing signs much like the cross, and moving his lips 
 as though he had been praying. On inquiry, I was informed 
 that this man was worshipping the sun, and that the others were 
 also idolaters, who bathed in the Ganges because they believed 
 that the waters of that river possessed the miraculous power of 
 cleansing them from their sins. 
 
 It is well known that St. Thomas the Apostle preached the 
 Christian religion in these parts ; and that he afterwards suffered 
 martyrdom at Meliapor, on the coast of Coromandel. The true 
 faith was afterwards polluted and overpowered by the sect of the 
 Nestorians ; but upon the arrival of the Portuguese, it was re- 
 stored by the labour of zealous missionaries. The Portuguese 
 were greatly helped and encouraged in this holy work by an 
 ancient prophecy, left by St. Thomas, and engraved upon a stone 
 column near Meliapor, and not far from the sea. This pro- 
 phecy is written in the language of the country, and imports 
 that the " religion which he had planted would flourish again, 
 when the sea, then forty miles distant, should reach that column ; 
 at which time white men would come into these parts from a 
 distant country." All this appears to have been fulfilled by the 
 arrival of the Portuguese in India. 
 
 The missionaries reclaimed a great number of the Nestorians, 
 and converted a still greater number of the pagans ; the Maho- 
 medan government only forbidding attempts to convert those of 
 its own persuasion ; it being its maxim, that no religion could be 
 better than that of Mahomed, but that Christianity was better 
 than idolatry. 
 
 In imitation of the Catholics, the English, the Dutch, and the 
 
28 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. v. 
 
 Danes have sent many of their preachers into these countries ; 
 but the grace of God was not with them ; and this, together with 
 their bad conduct, which so ill accorded with what they preached, 
 prevented them from producing any good effect. Every sect of 
 idolaters has here its temples, priests, sacrifices, ceremonies, and 
 idols. Among the numerous errors in which these blind hea- 
 then multitudes live, a principal one is the doctrine of the trans- 
 migration of souls. They are therefore very kind to all sorts of 
 animals and insects, which they neither kill nor eat ; but on the 
 contrary feed them, and attend on them with great care. To such 
 a pitch do they carry this belief, that they have hospitals for lice 
 and fleas, and pay liberally by the hour those who will allow 
 the insects to feed on their blood. They do this in the per- 
 suasion that after death their souls will pass into the bodies of 
 some animal more or less loathsome, according to the good or 
 evil actions of their past life. Above all things they highly 
 esteem and venerate sheep and cows, from a foolish belief that 
 they once sustained the earth upon their horns, and that a cow 
 pacified the anger of their idol, Mahadeu, when he had resolved 
 to destroy the universe for the sins of men ; and also because 
 after death a great river must be passed, which can only be done 
 by holding fast to the tail of a sheep or cow. 
 
 Influenced by this superstition, upon rising in the morning, 
 just as we cross our foreheads with holy water, so do they soil 
 theirs with the dung of a cow ; and thus disfigured, they walk 
 out and transact their daily business When we are at the point 
 of death, we feel satisfied if we can procure the assistance of an 
 ecclesiastic of known piety : these people on the contrary are 
 happy if in their last moments they can lay hold of the tail of a 
 cow, believing that they shall thus easily pass over the great 
 river. If while they are expiring the cow happens to discharge 
 the contents of her stomach, this circumstance is considered as 
 an omen of their future felicity, because they suppose that it is 
 owing to their soul being about to migrate into the body of the 
 cow. After the death of the poor idolater, the cow is well kept, 
 and treated with the same attention that would have been paid 
 to the man himself had he lived. Such being the veneration 
 they have for these animals, and particularly for the cow, when 
 any one is converted to the Christian faith, the missionaries 
 
chap, v.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 29 
 
 always test his sincerity by obliging him to eat cow's flesh, after 
 which his former heathen associates look upon him with horror, 
 and will neither eat, drink, nor converse with him. 
 
 Some of the more strict of this sect form the resolution of 
 becoming saints, and those people, in their blind ignorance of 
 the true faith, believe that they have attained the highest point 
 of perfection when they have passed a certain number of years 
 in the same spot, constantly exposed to the inclemencies of the 
 weather, and remaining always in the same posture. I myself 
 saw one of these saints, falsely so called, who had for many 
 years held his hands in one position, and whose nails had grown 
 a hideous length and penetrated into his arm, so that he could 
 not open his hands, and was waited on by others in all the ne- 
 cessities of nature ; indeed, all these penitents are thus waited on, 
 and those who can render them any service esteem it fortunate 
 as securing their own future happiness. 
 
 I was informed by Father Giovanni Da Fano, that having 
 heard of a woman who, aspiring to this imaginary sanctity, was 
 then standing night and day in the same place, with her hands 
 raised towards the heavens, he felt a great curiosity to see her. 
 Being persuaded that she could not thus stand always immove- 
 able without the assistance of the Evil One, he went close behind 
 her, and in a low voice he commanded the malignant spirits to 
 depart from the woman. Immediately upon this her arms 
 dropped, and she turned round angrily, exclaiming in her own 
 language, M Ah, demon ! demon I It was thus clearly proved 
 that such arts as these could only be performed through the in- 
 strumentality of the great enemy of mankind, whose reign in 
 those regions is supreme. 
 
30 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. vi. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Departure for Manilla — Miraculous Escape — Preaching in earnest — Cardinal 
 de Tournon's Imprisonment in Macao — His Death- — The Population of 
 China— Order to Paint for the Emperor. 
 
 I might relate a great deal more respecting Bengal, but as my 
 sojourn in this country was very short, I think it best to omit 
 doing so, lest I should state anything inaccurate. On the 22nd 
 of February we set out for Manilla, in the ship San Lorenzo, 
 which, though very small, had fifty passengers on board, twenty- 
 three of whom were Catholics, and the remainder Mahometans 
 and idolaters ; but six of the latter were slaves, and had been 
 bought with a view to their being instructed and baptized. On 
 my arrival on board the San Lorenzo, I again put ou my cassock, 
 throwing off the lay dress I had worn ever since my departure 
 from Cologne, and applied myself in good earnest to reclaim the 
 Catholics on board, who were mostly relapsed sinners, entirely 
 heedless of their religious duties. During some stay we made 
 in Malay, I was requested by the captains of two other ships to 
 assist their crews in their spiritual exercises, which I did with 
 great pleasure, and I hope with some success. 
 
 I did not go from Malay to Manilla by the San Lorenzo, but 
 in Our Lady of Guadaloupe, having been solicited by the captain 
 to give his sailors some religious instructions. In the Strait of 
 Malay, not far from Singapore, we were very nearly lost, the 
 navigation of those seas being extremely dangerous, owing to a 
 multitude of little islands which, opposing the waves in all direc- 
 tions, form a labyrinth of eddies and whirlpools. One day whilst 
 I was at my morning devotions, I suddenly heard a dreadful 
 noise under the ship, followed by a great uproar and confusion 
 above my head ; and almost at the same moment an American 
 merchant burst into my cabin, and, without uttering one word, 
 seized me by the arm and led me on deck, and I then perceived 
 that the vessel had been driven upon a rock, and was near 
 
chap, vi] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 31 
 
 sinking. I immediately rushed back to my cabin, and taking 
 the holy water, and a candle of the holy Father Innocent XL, 
 I first blessed the sea, then broke the candle into pieces, and 
 threw it to the waves, well knowing its miraculous powers in 
 similar cases. Very soon after I had done this we were out of 
 danger; and the means which God in his ineffable goodness em- 
 ployed to save us were, that the boat of another ship, taking one 
 of our anchors, went and lowered it at a considerable distance, 
 and enabled us to tow the vessel out of its fearful position. 
 
 At Manilla 1 was desired by the Governor to teach the prin- 
 ciples of our faith to eight Dutch deserters who were confined in 
 the fort; and to my great satisfaction, after forty days' exertions, 
 they were brought to make a public abjuration of their heresy. 
 Taking advantage of my free access to the fort, on Sundays I 
 went about carrying the cross and singing hymns till I had col- 
 lected a pretty numerous congregation, when I proceeded to 
 teach them the Catechism, and to preach a sermon on some im- 
 portant point of our holy religion. After the sermon I again 
 took the crucifix in my hand, and made a profession of repent- 
 ance, imparting to each word all the warmth of my soul. Then, 
 in order to make a deeper impression on my hearers, I untied 
 my cassock, which for this express purpose I wore open behind, 
 and I scourged myself till both my shoulders bled. For some 
 time my companions ridiculed these inflictions ; but when they 
 perceived that a captain, who had never paid the least attention 
 to my exhortations, was so touched by them that he resolved to 
 reform, and live as a Christian, they no longer jested on the 
 subject. Since my return to Naples I have not continued these 
 practices— not that I should ever censure them in any one else, 
 but merely because, in my old age, I came to understand that 
 reasoning and prayer are the surest means of persuasion, whilst 
 violence and exaggeration can produce at best but a blaze which 
 no sooner appears than it vanishes. 
 
 As there was no ship at Manilla bound for China, the King 
 of Spain having interdicted all intercourse between his subjects 
 and the Celestial Empire, a small ship was fitted out by sub- 
 scription, entirely for us, under the orders of Don Teodorica 
 Pedrini, a missionary who had already been some years in these 
 regions, and who for this purpose had disguised himself as a 
 
32 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, vi 
 
 captain. His inexperience in nautical matters nearly cost us 
 our lives two or three times ; but in spite of all, on the night of 
 the 2nd of January, 1710, we cast anchor in one of the numerous 
 islands close to Macao. 
 
 The next morning Don Pedrini went on shore in his assumed 
 garb of a captain, and in the afternoon he returned on board, 
 accompanied by two ecclesiastics of the suite of Cardinal de 
 Tournon. This brilliant ornament of the Sacred College had, 
 on his first arrival in China, been received by the Emperor with 
 unequivocal marks of esteem ; but having since refused to con- 
 form to certain enactments of the Board of Rites concerning the 
 missionaries, he had been confined at Macao. Soon after dusk 
 we went to pay him our respects, under the guidance of the two 
 ecclesiastics just mentioned, eluding the vigilance of the guards 
 by entering his prison through a private door which opened upon 
 the sea. We were received by the holy man with extreme affa- 
 bility and kindness ; and after a long and deeply-interesting con- 
 versation, we retired from his presence perfectly edified. 
 
 Although the Cardinal, and about forty missionaries of dif- 
 ferent religious orders, were thus kept in confinement during 
 the first three weeks of our stay at Macao, I and my companions 
 were left quite free. On the morning of the 23rd of January, 
 however, we were suddenly visited by five mandarins, who, after 
 sending for Father Fabri, began in .judicial form to ask us who 
 we were, whence we came, what was our business, and so forth, 
 writing down their questions and our answers. After this they 
 went away, leaving the house guarded by Chinese soldiers, for 
 whose accommodation a booth was instantly erected on the 
 premises. 
 
 After duly considering the indignities to which our holy reli- 
 gion was exposed in his own person and in those of the mis- 
 sionaries, his Eminence resolved to address a remonstrance to the 
 Viceroy at Canton, and at the same time to transmit with it a 
 dispatch for the Emperor, announcing his promotion to the rank 
 of Cardinal, and the arrival of six missionaries, three of whom 
 were acquainted with mathematics, music, and painting. His 
 Eminence was induced to take this step by the recollection that, 
 when he was at Peking, the Emperor had asked him to write, in 
 his name, to the Pope for some missionaries skilled in the arts 
 
chap, vi.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 33 
 
 and sciences ; and he now hoped to recover the iavour of the 
 monarch by sending him Father Fabri, Don Pedrini, and myself, 
 in the above capacities. When I heard that, by this arrange- 
 ment, I was doomed to quit my favourite vocation for the pur- 
 pose of cultivating an art of which I knew only the rudiments, 
 I could not refrain from expressing my bitter dissatisfaction ; but 
 reflecting that it was at that moment impossible to benefit the 
 cause of our religion as a missionary, I soon resigned myself to 
 obedience. 
 
 His Eminence bore all his troubles and privations with a 
 Christian fortitude which was truly admirable ; but nevertheless 
 his bodily frame being unequal to sustain the efforts of his great 
 mind, after three months' lingering illness he went to receive the 
 palm of martyrdom in Heaven — departing this life in the forty- 
 first year of his age, sincerely beloved and lamented by all who 
 knew him. 
 
 Although visions and revelations, as being liable to error and 
 delusion, do not prove the merit of a Christian so certainly 
 as the great virtues with which the Cardinal de Tournon was 
 adorned, yet as the following possesses all the conditions required 
 by the highest authorities on the subject, I cannot refrain from 
 inserting it here : — 
 
 Bishop Mullener, a man of truly apostolical piety, was en- 
 gaged in prayer in the province of Soo-chow-en, when he sud- 
 denly perceived the Cardinal before him, radiant in countenance 
 and clad in pontifical garments, who said to him, " I depart for 
 Paradise," and then disappeared. This was told by the Bishop 
 to Father Appiani, who suffered for eighteen years in a Chinese 
 jail for having obeyed the Cardinal rather than the Board of 
 Rites ; and Father Appiani repeated it to me, when, as I was 
 passing through Canton on my return to Europe, I paid him a 
 visit in his prison. 
 
 In consequence of an order from the Emperor, very shortly 
 after the death of his Eminence, we left Macao for Quang-chow- 
 foo, which Europeans call Canton, from the name of the province 
 of Quang-tong, of which it is the capital. The Chinese towns 
 are distinguished by three different denominations, according to 
 their size. The largest, which are fifty-eight in number, are 
 named Foo; the next, amounting to two hundred and forly- 
 
 D 
 
34 FATHER RIP AS RESIDENCE [chap. vi. 
 
 seven, are called Chow ; and the smallest, which are as many as 
 one thousand one hundred and fifty-two, bear the name of Yen. 
 Quang-chow-foo is therefore a city of the first class. The streets 
 are generally long and straight ; and the houses, according to 
 the fashion prevailing all over China, have only one floor, and 
 are enclosed by walls, without any windows outside, so that they 
 look like nunneries. The traffic carried on here is so great as to 
 give the place, all the year round, the appearance of a fair. 
 
 As it is almost impossible to speak of the prodigious amount of 
 the population of Canton without being suspected of exaggera- 
 tion, I will leave tne reader to form his own opinion from the 
 following incident : — On my return to London in 1724, I was 
 invited to dine with a party of English gentlemen who wished 
 to hear some account of my long residence in China. Among 
 various other things, they asked me what the population of 
 Canton and Peking really was ; and when I talked of the millions 
 stated by the Chinese, they shewed their incredulity by a burst 
 of laughter. I told them that if they had no faith in the asser- 
 tions of the Chinese, they ought at least to believe their country- 
 man and friend, Mr. Fazacalei [Fazakerly ?], who was one of 
 the party, and who, having been five or six times in Canton, 
 would, I had no doubt, corroborate my statement ; but as he 
 joined them in their expressions of disbelief, my appeal to him 
 only produced more laughter. Whereupon I proceeded to 
 question Mr. Fazacalei in this manner : — 
 
 " Have you ever seen Canton from the top of the great 
 tower?" 
 
 " Yes, I have," he answered. 
 
 M How large did you think it ? " 
 
 u At least twice as large as London." 
 
 " Which of the two cities is the most thickly inhabited ? " 
 
 " Canton, by far: its thoroughfares being at all times ob- 
 structed with people." 
 
 " Is it men or women that chiefly form the crowd ? " 
 
 u Oh, no woman is ever seen in the streets of Canton." 
 
 " Then, gentlemen," said I, " if London contains eight hun- 
 dred thousand inhabitants, as you say, surely Canton, being 
 twice its size, and with a male population sufficient to throng 
 the streets, must have sixteen hundred thousand ; and if Canton 
 
chap, vi.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 35 
 
 contains sixteen hundred thousand, Peking, which is far larger, 
 and more thickly peopled, cannot fail to have at least two 
 millions." After which they raised no further objections. 
 
 It is true that we Europeans are astonished when we are told 
 of millions of men living within the walls of the same city ; but 
 those who have seen how all the towns, villages, hamlets, and 
 roads of China swarm with human beings, are no longer sur- 
 prised. How the population of the Celestial Empire has in- 
 creased to this enormous extent it is not my object to inquire ; 
 but among the many causes which must have contributed to pro- 
 duce such a state of society, I will merely mention these : — First, 
 the limited number of bonzes and bonzesses, who are devoted to 
 the service of their idols, and, like our monks and nuns, profess 
 celibacy ; second, the prevailing custom that each man should 
 marry as many wives as he can support, not caring what may 
 become of the children ; third, the disgrace attached to such 
 persons as do not marry ; fourth, the perfect peace that the 
 empire has enjoyed for a long time ; fifth, the total absence of 
 contagious diseases ; sixth, the extraordinary fecundity of the 
 women ; and, lastly, early marriages, which generally take place 
 as soon as the parties have attained the age of puberty. As an 
 illustration of the numerous progenies of the Chinese, I may add 
 that one day while dining with the steward of the Viceroy, I 
 asked him the number of his children. Not knowing it, he 
 began to reckon them by name ; but when he came to the 
 eighteenth he was puzzled, and called in the servants to help 
 him to count the remainder. 
 
 Having finished two pictures, which I had begun at Macao, 
 for the Emperor, I presented them to the Viceroy, and he for- 
 warded them to his Celestial Majesty, with firing of mortars, as 
 is customary whenever anything is sent to this monarch. He 
 then sent me an old picture representing Confucius on his knees 
 before the idol Lee-lao-keon, which he desired me to copy for 
 the Emperor. As I could not undertake such an idolatrous task, 
 I immediately went to him ; and he, in consequence of my being 
 about to enter the service of the sovereign, came to meet me at 
 the gate. The moment he saw me he asked, " Nan-lee noe, Pay- 
 lee ?" That is, whether I wished to use the ceremonies of the 
 south, or those of the north ? The ceremonies of the south are 
 
 d2 
 
36 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. vi. 
 
 those employed by the Chinese, and, on account of their number 
 and style, are more fit for divine worship than for the intercourse 
 of men ; those of the north belong to the Tartars, and are few 
 and easy, and nearly similar to ours. I therefore answered, 
 " Pay-lee," or the ceremonies of the north. After this he im- 
 mediately took me by the hand, and led me to the inner apart- 
 ments, where he made me sit down at his left, which among the 
 Tartars is the place of honour, as the right is with the Chinese. 
 On my telling him that my religion did not permit me to copy 
 the picture, he apologised, saying that he was not acquainted 
 with the dogmas of our faith, and added that he would send me 
 another. After a pretty long conversation I took leave, and he 
 did me the honour of accompanying me back to the gate. He 
 accordingly sent a picture ; and in order to ascertain the truth 
 of a report which had been spread, that I knew nothing of 
 painting, he at the same time ordered me to draw the portrait of 
 a living Chinese. He also deputed a great number of people to 
 come and see me work, till at length perceiving that I had been 
 slandered, he condemned the originator of the calumny to receive 
 thirty lashes. As soon as the copy and the portrait were finished, 
 he desired me to paint eight more ; and, as if they could be 
 blown with a breath like glass bottles, he sent next morning to 
 inquire how many I had made. 
 
chap, vii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 37 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Departure for Peking — The Candle-Hills — Chinese Porters — Navigation of 
 the River Nan-kiang-huo — Sacrifices — Fishing-Birds. 
 
 In obedience to an order received from the Emperor, the Vice- 
 roy ordered some vessels to be fitted out for the purpose of send- 
 ing us to Peking at his own expense. We sailed by the Great 
 Canal on the 27th of November ; our party consisting of Fathers 
 Tilisch and Cordero, both mathematicians, Don Pedrini, Father 
 Fabri, and myself. In a few hours we reached Joosh-yen, which 
 the Chinese consider as a village, because it has no courts of 
 justice, and is subject to Canton ; but in every other respect 
 it is a large and wealthy manufacturing town. Before we had 
 made much progress in our journey we had occasion to admire 
 the care shown by the government of this well-regulated empire ; 
 for at every fourth mile we found a large vessel, with a piece of 
 artillery at the prow, and a good number of soldiers on board, 
 expressly intended to protect the canal from robbers. 
 
 After a very pleasant voyage of four days, amid fruitful fields 
 and vast numbers of people always in sight, on either side of 
 the river, we came to some mountains which have been cut 
 through for the course of the canal. This part of the passage is 
 considered dangerous, on account of its being much infested by 
 robbers. Here we perceived on our left the celebrated hills called 
 Lah-chew-shian— that is, candle- hills, from their close resem- 
 blance to candles. They are lofty and barren, and rise abruptly 
 from the surrounding plain. When we arrived near the city of 
 Hing-hien-chee-foo, some persons, pretending to come from the 
 governor, ordered us to stop, that they might come on board 
 to see whether our numbers agreed with the list submitted to the 
 authorities by the commander of our convoy. The captain, sus- 
 
38 . FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. vii. 
 
 pecting that they were robbers, refused to admit them ; and, as 
 they still continued to approach, several muskets were fired into 
 the air, to intimidate them. Upon this they turned about, but 
 shortly afterwards they made two more attempts to board us ; 
 being, however, received with volleys of shot, they at length 
 went away. 
 
 After a voyage of six days upon the great river Kiang, we 
 arrived at a village called Kiang-Cheou — that is, the mouth of 
 the Kiang. The river Nan-kiang-huo, upon which we were to 
 continue our course, is generally about a gun-shot across, and in 
 winter contains but very little water; the streams from the 
 northern mountains, by which it is fed, being then frozen. For 
 this reason the boats employed upon this river are flat-bottomed ; 
 nevertheless, they often touch the ground, and in some parts the 
 sailors are obliged to pusli the boat along with their shoulders or 
 with poles; and in these cases even the women help, thoug 
 they may be burdened with an infant at their backs. Owing to 
 the shallowness of the water we were unable to continue our 
 course, and therefore stopped at a village called Hoang-hang, 
 where we remarked a house which was well fortified, and of ex- 
 traordinary size, containing, as I found upon examination, forty- 
 eight rooms. I was told by the Chinese that it was used as a 
 place of refuge by the neighbouring population when attacked 
 by bands of robbers. The next day we arrived at the town of 
 Nan-young. We wished to sleep in the convent of the Spanish 
 Augustines, but our conductor objected to this ; stating that he 
 had received orders not to permit us to lodge in any houses inha- 
 bited by Christians. At this place all our luggage was weighed 
 and divided into lots that could be carried by one or two men ; 
 for here the river ends, and a mountain is to be passed which di- 
 vides the province of Canton from Kian-sy. This mountain, called 
 Mei-ling, has two miles of steep ascent on one side, and two of 
 descent on the other, and is about thirty miles distant from an- 
 other river, on which we were again to embark. Everything is 
 carried the whole of this distance by porters, vehicles and ani- 
 mals of every kind being excluded j and as these two rivers form 
 the chief channel of communication between the south and the 
 north of the empire, the road which connects them is so covered 
 
chap, vii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 39 
 
 with people, that, during its whole length of thirty miles, it has 
 constantly the appearance of a fair. 
 
 These porters carry burdens like pack-horses, and also sedans 
 or palanquins, to do which they do not use straps, but a kind of 
 yoke, made of hard wood, which chafes and cuts their flesh when 
 they do not take the precaution of wearing a collar of felt or 
 leather. It is really marvellous to see with what untiring swift- 
 ness these men perform their journeys of thirty miles a-day, at 
 five miles an hour, stopping to rest only two or three times. It 
 must be remarked, however, that these palanquins, as well as the 
 more stately sedans, are very light, being always constructed of 
 bamboo. 
 
 On the fifteenth day of our journey we arrived at the city of 
 Nan-gan-foo, and were allowed to dine with Father Fernandes, 
 at the residence of the Reformed Franciscans ; but as we could 
 not stop there during the night, he returned with us, and passed 
 the night on board our vessel. While in this city, I was not a 
 little surprised to see boys and girls of eight or nine years car- 
 rying burdens far too heavy for their age. We next came to 
 the town of Kan-cheou-foo, in which both the Jesuits and the 
 Reformed Franciscans have stations. Here we found a custom- 
 house, being the first we had seen since our departure from 
 Canton. Every morning, at about two hours after sunrise, the 
 ships lying here are searched, and compelled to pay the duties 
 required. Those which arrive after that time are obliged to 
 wait till the next day. Having given notice that we were in the 
 service of the Emperor, and on our way to the imperial court, 
 we were not delayed nor troubled by any search. We had not, 
 however, continued our voyage for more than an hour when our 
 sailors went ashore to perform a sacrifice, in which they offered 
 up different animals and counterfeit paper-money, which last 
 they burn, believing that in another world it will be changed 
 into good coin. This was done because we were about to enter 
 a part of the river rendered very dangerous by a multitude of 
 rocks, against which the current breaks with great violence. 
 Ships are here in imminent danger of being lost ; and it requires 
 great experience and dexterity in the sailors to steer a safe 
 course, especially at a spot called Shee-pah-tan, or " eighteen 
 
40 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. vii. 
 
 breakers," upon which the waves dash with fearful impetuosity. 
 It was for protection against this peril that the sailors offered 
 sacrifices and prayers to their idols. 
 
 On their return on board they bound up some bundles of aro- 
 matic wood and burnt them as incense in honour of their gods. 
 I no sooner perceived this than I ran, snatched them away, and 
 threw them into the water ; setting up a crucifix in their stead. 
 A murmur immediately arose among the sailors ; but it sub- 
 sided upon their being told by our converted servant that this 
 was the image of our God, who was omnipotent ; and that the 
 vessel being thus placed under his protection, no unfortunate 
 accident need be feared. 
 
 Soon after, the river narrowed to only two hundred and sixty 
 paces in breadth, and we arrived in the midst of those dreaded 
 rocks, where we beheld with no small apprehension the fury of 
 the waves that dashed upon them, and the danger in which our 
 vessel was, owing to the irresistible power of the current. Our 
 sailors, however, managed their oars and rudder so admirably, 
 that they preserved us. The rocks under water are the most 
 perilous. I saw one of the boats strike upon one of them, and 
 instantly become a wreck. At length, after passing two whole 
 days amid these dangers, we were very thankful to find ourselves 
 safely beyond them. Six of the vessels of our convoy were lost, 
 and the one in which we were narrowly escaped. 
 
 While continuing our course upon this river we witnessed a 
 mode of fishing much practised in China, and a most interesting 
 sight it was. The fishermen employ a certain kind of birds 
 called loo-soo, which are rather larger than a duck, and have a 
 neck as long as that of a goose. As they are quite black, they 
 also bear the name of shew-e-laou, which signifies water-crow. 
 The fisherman takes them in his boat, and when he sets them at 
 liberty they swim upon the water, and at the sight of a fish they 
 dive and secure it in their beaks. A ring is put upon their 
 necks, which will allow them to swallow the smaller fish, but 
 not the larger. When the fisherman perceives that their throats 
 are filled with fish, he thrusts into the water a long pole, upon 
 which these birds have been trained to climb and return into the 
 boat ; he then squeezes their throats to make them disgorge their 
 
chap, vii.] AT THK COURT OF PEKING. 41 
 
 prey, and every time this is done he obtains about two handf'uls 
 of fish. The greater the number of these birds a fisherman pos- 
 sesses, the richer is he considered to be ; for the expense of keep- 
 ing them is a mere nothing, as the smaller fish which they catch 
 afford them in general sufficient food. I remarked, also, that when 
 these loo-soo have dived, they rise to tUe surface of the water 
 with their prey in their beak, and remain nearly a quarter of an 
 hour before they plunge again to swallow their food. Hence it 
 would appear they are taught by instinct that it would be dan- 
 gerous for them to swallow a fish before it is dead. 
 
42 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chjp. yiu. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Dangers of Medical Practice — Missionary Pride — Foundlings — 
 Mahomedans. 
 
 We arrived on Christmas-day at Nan-chang-foo, which is the 
 capital of the province of Kian-sy, and were soon afterwards 
 visited by Father Simoy, a Portuguese Jesuit, who informed us 
 that he was in hourly expectation of the arrival of a lay-brother 
 from Peking. On the following day the weather was so rough 
 that we could not cross the river, which is here a mile and a half 
 broad. We thus returned Father Simoy's visit, and while we 
 were at dinner we received the intelligence that the brother 
 above named had been robbed at a place called Lo-hua, about 
 twelve miles distant. Having some skill in the medical art, he 
 had been commanded by the Emperor to visit his twentieth son, 
 who was ill. Either from not understanding the disorder, or 
 from reluctance to give pain to the monarch he pronounced that 
 there was no danger. Not long af'er, the prince died, and the 
 lay-brother was kicked, cuffed, and beaten so severely, by order 
 of the Emperor, that he fell seriously ill in consequence, and was 
 now repairing to Macao, on leave of absence. This must not 
 surprise my readers, for I can add that, while in Peking, I was 
 acquainted with some medical men who, having attended one of 
 the imperial family, and not having succeeded in their treatment 
 of the case, received a severe flogging, by the Emperor's com- 
 mand, and, still smarting from the lashes, were sent to prison, 
 loaded with heavy chains. Fortunately for them, another mem- 
 ber of the imperial family was taken ill, and they were ordered 
 to attend the patient during the whole of his illness, without, 
 however, being freed from their chains. Having succeeded this 
 time in effecting a cure, they were set free, but on condition 
 that they must continue to wear round their necks a small chain 
 fastened with a clasp, as a warning for the future. Taught by 
 
chap, vin.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 43 
 
 these and many other similar occurrences, the Jesuits, who were 
 in the Emperor's service as mathematicians, painters, watch- 
 makers, surgeons, or in other capacities, would never undertake 
 to serve him as physicians. » 
 
 Upon leaving Nan-chang-foo, we no longer travelled by water, 
 but in litters, our attendants following on horseback ; and thus, 
 on the 1st of January, 1711, we entered the city of Kiaou-kian- 
 foo. At the inn where we stopped for the night, with the assist- 
 ance of an interpreter, I entered into conversation with the host 
 and his son, upon the principles of the Christian religion, and 
 they both appeared so convinced of its truth that they requested 
 to be baptized. But as I judged that in so short a time it was 
 impossible that they could fully understand the nature of the 
 subject, I left them a book, in Chinese, on the Christian faith, 
 and directed them where to find a missionary who would baptize 
 them. 
 
 These two conversions filled me with great joy, as they were 
 the first I had made. I may here take occasion to observe that, 
 if our European missionaries in China would conduct themselves 
 with less ostentation, and accommodate their manners to persons 
 of all ranks and conditions, the number of converts would be 
 immensely increased : for the Chinese possess excellent natural 
 abilities, and are both prudent and docile. But, unfortunately, 
 our missionaries have adopted the lofty and pompous manner 
 known in China by the appellation of " Tti-mjen." Their gar- 
 ments are made of the richest materials ; they go nowhere on 
 foot, but always in sedans, on horseback, or in boats, and with 
 numerous attendants following them. With a few honourable 
 exceptions, all the missionaries live in this manner ; and thus, as 
 they never mix with the people, they make but few converts. 
 The diffusion of our holy religion in these parts has been almost 
 entirely owing to the catechists who are in their service, to 
 other Christians, or to the distribution of Christian books in the 
 Chinese language. Thus, there is scarcely a single missionary 
 who can boast of having made a convert by his own preaching, 
 for they merely baptize those who have been already converted 
 by others ; and, in the absence of missionaries, infants, aged per- 
 sons, and those that are sick, are baptized by native Christians. 
 
 On the 18th I had the happiness of finding, in the open couu- 
 
44 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. viii. 
 
 try through which we passed, a castaway child about two 
 days old. I instantly ordered two persons who were with me to 
 ascertain whether the infant was alive ; and, upon finding that it 
 still breathed, I endeavoured to procure a little water to baptize 
 it. But, strange to say, although I had hitherto travelled with 
 several villages constantly in sight, none was within our reach at 
 this moment where we might obtain water, neither was there a 
 brook or a spring. In consequence of this, I had the child care- 
 fully placed in my litter till we arrived at the inn called " Pey- 
 suy-kaou," where we were to lodge for the night. Here I put 
 on my surplice and stole, and taking the oil, which I always 
 carried with me, I consecrated the water ; after this I baptized 
 the infant ; which, being a girl, I resolved to name Mary, in 
 order to offer to the Holy Virgin this my first-begotten in the 
 Lord. Upon my departure 1 left twelve shillings, partly my 
 own and partly contributed by the Christians of the place, for 
 her support, intending to send more from Peking if she lived : 
 but this was not necessary— the child died soon after ; and thus 
 went, without trouble, to be happy with God in heaven. 
 
 There is nothing unusual in seeing children thus abandoned ; 
 it occurs daily throughout this vast empire. When mothers are 
 poor, and have large families, or observe any defect upon the 
 body of an infant, or any indication of an illness likely to be- 
 come troublesome and expensive, they cast away the little crea- 
 ture without remorse. This cruel custom is also generally 
 practised by unmarried women who have children, and especially 
 by the members of a sect called Necoo, who pretend to live in 
 spotless chastity. The poor infants are secretly thrown into a 
 river, or left near the public road, in the hope that some passenger 
 may take pity on them and carry them home. This sometimes 
 happens, but generally the unfortunate beings are devoured by 
 wild beasts. Not far from the walls of Peking, I myself saw one 
 infant under the paws of a dog, and another between the teeth 
 of a hog. By a charitable provision of the Emperor, carts are 
 sent round the walls of his immense capital every morning in 
 order to collect castaway infants, and carry them to a certain 
 temple, where a number of women are employed to nurse them 
 at his expense ; but, owing to the want of proper attention, out 
 of a hundred of these numerous ill-fated children, scarcely ten 
 
chap, vin.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 46 
 
 survive. Well acquainted with this state of things, the Jesuits 
 have appointed a Chinese Christian to baptize all the infants 
 that are brought to that temple. To do this, however, they are 
 obliged to obtain permission from the bonzes, which they must 
 purchase with money. In this manner not less than three thou- 
 sand children are baptized every year. 
 
 In other cities in China, where no such receptacle as this 
 temple exists, the unfortunate little beings are left a prey to 
 wild beasts ; for it rarely happens that any one of them is pre- 
 served by the compassion of a stranger. I was so deeply affected 
 by this that I resolved to devote the rent of a small house at 
 Naples to the support of a ca tec hist, charged with the care of 
 baptizing such infants every morning ; hoping that the example, 
 however humble, might induce other persons to contribute more 
 effectually for the same purpose. 
 
 The next day was spent at the same place where I had bap- 
 tized the little foundling ; the river being considered dangerous, 
 in consequence of numerous masses of ice, which might have 
 come in contact with the vessel. At length we crossed it safely, 
 breaking with our oars the ice which had begun to form near the 
 banks. Before starting we had, however, to wait a long time, 
 because the officer appointed to conduct us had repaired to a 
 temple of idols to sacrifice various animals and implore a good 
 passage. This circumstance I only mention to shame many 
 Christians, who are less eager to pray to their true God than 
 these pagans to their false ones. 
 
 In these parts we saw for the first time a great many Maho- 
 medans ; and I afterwards understood that they are to be found in 
 every province of the empire. It is said that they entered China 
 from the west, in former times, when foreigners were permitted 
 to pass the frontiers ; and that they came from India. They 
 formed connexions with the Chinese, and their descendants have 
 increased to such an extent that they are now far more nume- 
 rous than the Christians. They have their temples, or mosques, 
 in which they meet to perform the rites of their religion. They 
 wear the Chinese costume, with the exception of the lower 
 orders, who axe distinguished by a kind of cap of white cloth, 
 pointed at the top : they also allow their mustachios to grow. 
 They live with the Chinese in perfect harmony. 
 
46 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. viii. 
 
 On arriving at Ool-she-poo I inquired of one of the Moors 
 what he adored ? " Pahy-choo" [the Lord], he answered. " What 
 Lord ? " said I. " Tah-se-yang-te-choo " [the Lord of Europe], 
 he replied. u Do you not worship Tien" [Heaven] ? I resumed. 
 " Poo-pahy-tien-pahy-choo " [I do not worship Heaven, but the 
 Lord], he replied, with some resentment. Father Fabri asked 
 the same questions of two other Moors, and he received similar 
 answers. 
 
 When we were within one day's journey of our destination, a 
 messenger brought us an order to stop, because the Emperor 
 was absent from Peking, and did not wish us to see any of the 
 Europeans before we were presented to him ; but, the day after. 
 we were commanded to proceed, and accordingly we reached the 
 capital on the 5th of January, about noon. 
 
chap, ix.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 47 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Introduction to the Emperor — The Ko-tow — Climate and Clothing — Abun- 
 dance of Game — Chinese Stoves — Description of Peking. 
 
 Being safely arrived in Peking, to which city the Emperor had 
 returned, we were, by his command, immediately conducted to 
 the palace, without being permitted to see any of the Europeans. 
 After remaining for some time in an apartment with a number 
 of mandarins, we were shown into a spacious open hall, where 
 the chief eunuch came to meet us, and made us sit down upon 
 cushions, which are used by the Tartars, who do not sit like us, 
 or like the Chinese, but with their legs crossed. When we had 
 taken our seats, the eunuch and the mandarins standing, two 
 large golden bowls, one full of meat, the other of fish, were 
 brought to us, with the intimation that the whole was sent by 
 the Wan-Sui, which signifies the life of ten thousand years, 
 which is one of the titles of his Imperial Majesty, and that it 
 came from his own table. Such being the case, we were ordered 
 to go on our knees, which is the universal custom upon receiv- 
 ing any thing direct from his Majesty. Then, taking the two 
 bowls, we were obliged to raise them on high in our hands, and 
 perform the ko-tow, that is, bend the head to the ground in sign 
 of thanks for the great favour thus conferred upon us. After 
 sitting down again we declined tasting the meat, saying that, 
 being Friday, our religion forbade it, and we partook of the 
 other things. We were then asked whether we had come pre- 
 pared to serve the Emperor, even unto death ; and we replied 
 that such was exactly our wish. 
 
 When the dinner was over we were presented to his Majesty 
 in his private apartments. He was seated, after the fashion of 
 the Tartars, on a divan covered with velvet ; and had before 
 him a small table, upon which were placed some books and writ- 
 ing materials. Upon his right and left were some European 
 
48 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap.ix. 
 
 missionaries, with some eunuchs, having their feet close together 
 and their arms hanging down, which, in China, is a sign of 
 modesty and respect. Following the instructions received from 
 the mandarins, as soon as we were within sight of the Emperor, 
 we hastened our steps to the divan on which he was seated ; and 
 there we stood a few moments, with closed feet and arms hang- 
 ing down. Then, at a signal given by the master of the cere- 
 monies lowering his hand, we bent our knees ; and, after remain- 
 ing a short time in this position, at another signal we inclined 
 slowly our heads till we touched the ground with the forehead ; 
 and this was repeated a second and a third time. After these 
 three prostrations we arose to our feet, and then we again re- 
 peated them in the same manner, till they amounted to nine. 
 This homage is called tah-Cee, that is, the great or solemn cere- 
 mony. Subsequently, when we went into the presence of the 
 Emperor, which was a frequent occurrence, we only knelt once ; 
 excepting at certain annual solemnities, such as the Emperor's 
 birth-day, the first day of the year, and some few other occa- 
 sions, when the nine prostrations were indispensable. 
 
 After these ceremonies his Majesty asked which of us had made 
 any progress in the Chinese language, as he had been informed 
 by the mandarins appointed to attend us that one of the five had 
 done so. He was answered that I was the one. He then in- 
 quired our names, country, and profession, and whether we had 
 brought any new mathematical works with us. He also ordered 
 Signor Pedrini to play some music ; put some questions to Signor 
 Fabri concerning mathematics ; and said something to me about 
 painting. To this point the conversation had been kept up by 
 means of interpreters. The Emperor now commanded me to 
 answer the next question in Chinese, expressing myself as well 
 as I could. He addressed me very slowly, employing many 
 synonymous words, in order that I might understand him ; and 
 was very patient with me, making me repeat the words, till at 
 length he made out what I meant. The question was as to the 
 cause of Cardinal de Tournon's death at Macao. At the termi- 
 nation of the audience we were obliged to hasten out of the apart- 
 ment as quickly as possible, which is a mark of respect paid to 
 the Emperor. Having thus left the presence, I was informed 
 bv the mandarins, that it was his Majesty's pleasure that I 
 
chap, ix.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 49 
 
 should go to the Palace to paint ; and, accordingly, I entered 
 upon my duty on the following day. 
 
 The city of Peking was once called Se-yun-tien-fu ; but it 
 received its present appellation when the emperors of China 
 removed the government from Nanking to the north of the 
 empire, in order to oppose the incursions of the Tartars. As 
 Nanking means south royal residence, thus Peking signifies 
 north royal residence ; the word Nan meaning south, Pe north, 
 and king royal residence. It lies in a plain which stretches to 
 the south for more than ten days' journey without interruption, 
 whilst at no great distance towards the north it is bounded by 
 very numerous mountains. Owing to this extensive plain on 
 the south, and this multitude of mountains on the north, Peking 
 is exposed to deadly heat in summer, and severe cold in winter. 
 
 The transition from one extreme to the other, however, is 
 slow and gradual, co that the Chinese of the upper classes go on 
 changing their clothes all the year round. In summer they 
 wear a cotton shirt, a waistcoat of light ko-poo, linen, a loose 
 gown of the same material, called ppow-zoo, and over this a 
 light silk spencer, called why-ttao. When the heat begins to 
 decrease they exchange the ko-poo for a sort of crape called 
 shah, and this again for satin ; and, as the weather gets cool, 
 they wear the ppow-zoo lined, and the why-ttao wadded, then 
 both these garments wadded, after which they adopt the furs of 
 ermine, sable, and fox, in the same gradation. In the depth of 
 winter, besides having both the ppow-zoo and why-ttao lined 
 with foxes' skin, they wear an under waistcoat of lambs' skin, 
 and the loose gown over it wadded ; and when it snows they put 
 on a long cloak covered over with seal-skin. In spite of all this 
 they still shiver with cold ; and Count Ismailof, the Russian 
 ambassador, told me that he and all his suit had been obliged to 
 add garments to those they had been accustomed to wear, as the 
 cold was far more intense here than at Moscow. 
 
 During the period of frost, that is, from October till March, 
 Northern Tartary sends to the capital an enormous quantity of 
 game, consisting chiefly of stags, hares, wild-boars, pheasants, 
 and partridges ; whilst Southern Tartary furnishes a great abun- 
 dance of excellent sturgeon and other fish, all of which being 
 frozen, can easily be kept during the whole winter. At the close 
 
80 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. ix. 
 
 of the old year, and the beginning of the new, huge heaps of 
 game and fish are exposed for sale in the streets, and it is sur- 
 prising to see how cheap they are sold. For seven or eight 
 silver tchens, which are equivalent to four shillings, one may 
 buy a stag ; for a trifle more a wild-boar ; for five half-pence, a 
 pheasant ; and so on in the same proportion. During the winter 
 it never rains at Peking, and it snows but seldom and sparingly. 
 From March to June there are occasional showers ; but in July 
 and August it rains copiously 
 
 Stoves are in use in Peking, not,, however, such as I have seen 
 in Germany, Holland, and England, standing in the room, like 
 small ovens : here they are placed without the room, and the 
 heat is transmitted to the apartment through pipes, which run 
 completely under the floor. By the European method of warm- 
 mg houses, our heads may be hot while our feet are cold, whereas 
 in Peking the feet are always well warmed, and a moderate heat 
 alike pervades every part of the room. Wood is very scarce, 
 but there are mountains in the neighbourhood which appear 
 entirely composed of coal like that of England ; and this is the 
 fuel in general use. While I was living in Peking seme Mus- 
 covites arrived who had never been there before. They built 
 themselves stoves of the European kind, supposing that they 
 were to be preferred ; but soon perceiving their error, they 
 pulled them down, and adopted those of the Chinese. They 
 likewise discovered that -he expense of heating -their own stoves 
 exceeded that of the Chinese a hundred-fold : for in their own 
 they were obliged to use a great deal of wood, which at Peking 
 is exceedingly dear ; whereas the cost of fuel for the Chinese 
 stove is a mere trifle, coals being very cheap, and the chimneys 
 not more than a foot square, and two feet deep. In the southern 
 part of China, the land being universally cultivated, there is but 
 little wood : and as the expense of conveying coals would be 
 very great, dry leaves, grass, weeds, and even the dung of ani- 
 mals, are used for fuel. The ground is dry and healthy. 
 
 The quantity of rice produced is not considerable ; but this, 
 as well as the other necessaries not found here, are abundantly 
 supplied fiom other parts of the empire ; and for their transport 
 the preseut Emperor furnishes, at his own expense, nearly a 
 thousand vessels of burden. 
 
chap. ix.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 51 
 
 There is also a want of fruit, the quantity grown not being 
 sufficient for so great a population ; but this deficiency is remedied 
 in the same manner, from the country about Peking. The 
 quinces are larger than ours, and of exquisite flavour ; and the 
 apples and pears are so wholesome that they are given uncooked 
 to sick persons. In Peking the price of these fruits if moderate ; 
 but, being of an excellent quality, they are carefully packed in 
 paper, and sent to Canton, where they are sold at one silver 
 tchen a-piece, which is equal to five half-pence of our money. 
 They consist almost entirely of juice, so that when dried in the 
 sun, as is done in Europe, nothing but the rind remains, which 
 is quite unfit for eating. There are two or three kinds of plums, 
 which are tolerably good ; the chesnuts are small, and the other 
 nuts resemble our own. The cherries are wild and small, and 
 have little pulp. 
 
 The grapes are good, but they are only eaten. Formerly they 
 were made into wine, as may be seen in manuscript books, where 
 the word Ppoo-tow-tsien occurs, which signifies grape-wine ; but 
 they now make their wine of a kind of rice, which is bruised and 
 compressed into solid cakes for the purpose, and easily conveyed 
 to any distance for sale. "When used, these rice-cakes are broken, 
 and put into vessels with hot water, and fermented. The liquor 
 thus produced might be mistaken for excellent grape- wine. It 
 is made sweet or acid at pleasure by the addition of certain herbs 
 introduced during the fermentation, and a colour (yellow, light, 
 or dark) is given to it as required. In consequence of this use 
 of rice, very little care is taken to cultivate the vine. The Eu- 
 ropeans, however, employ grape-wine to celebrate mass; but 
 from the watery nature of the grape, or from some other cause, 
 during the heat of summer this wine ferments and turns sour, 
 on account of which some of the missionaries cause it to be 
 boiled. 
 
 Peking is composed of two distinct cities, one being called the 
 Tartar city, the other the Chinese. The Tartar city is so named 
 because it is inhabited by Tartars, and by those who, though not 
 Tartars, are enrolled in the Ki-hiu-ti, or eight bands which con- 
 stitute the Tartar troops. The Chinese city is inhabited by 
 Chinese alone. It may be proper to observe that the district 
 now called the Tartar city was in former times inhabited by the 
 
 e2 
 
52 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. ix. 
 
 eunuchs in waiting, who amounted to ten thousand ; but under 
 the present dynasty it is inhabited, as I have said, by Tartars 
 and Chinese of the Ki-hiu-ti. The eunuchs, now about six 
 thousand in number, live entirely within the walls of the palace. 
 The Tartar city is square, and encircled by a yellow wall. It is 
 within this yellow wall that the imperial palace is situated, but 
 it is surrounded again by another wall, more lofty than that of 
 the city, and of vast extent. The inhabitants within amount to 
 a great multitude ; for besides the six thousand eunuchs, there is 
 in the seraglio a vast assembly of women, of whom the Emperor 
 alone knows the number. There is also within the imperial resi- 
 dence a great number of Tartars who are in the service of the 
 Emperor's sons, each of whom has his separate court ; so that 
 this palace may be very well considered as a third division, and 
 Peking described as containing three distinct cities. 
 
 The Tartar city has nine gates, and each side of it is three 
 miles in length. The Chinese city, which is also walled, joins the 
 northern wall, which separates it from the Tartars. It is of the 
 same size, but of a different form, being longer from east to west 
 than from north to south ; and it is more densely peopled with 
 the middling and lower classes than the other city. In its four 
 sides there are seven gates ; and thus Peking has in all sixteen 
 gates, and outside every gate there is a large suburb. The two 
 cities together are twenty-one miles in circuit, according to a 
 measurement made by the command of the Emperor. If to the 
 circumference of twenty-one miles be added the suburbs and 
 environs, which are also very populous, particularly those to- 
 wards the west, through which nearly the whole commercial 
 traffic of the Chinese capital passes, some idea may be formed of 
 the vast size of this city. The palace, standing in the midst of 
 the Tartar city, as already stated, has a southern aspect, and is 
 in shape an oblong square, two miles in length, one in breadth, 
 and six in circumference. The walls are enclosed and protected 
 by a broad and deep ditch. There are three gates on each side, 
 that in the centre being opened for the Emperor only, that to- 
 wards the south for the heir-apparent, and the third for general 
 use. These gates are guarded night and day by soldiers. Within 
 and above these defences rises another wall, forming, as it were, 
 an inner palace, in which reside the Emperor, his ladies, the 
 
chap, ix.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING 53 
 
 women in waiting, the eunuchs, and the imperial family. There 
 is also a spacious garden, into which no one is admitted without 
 an express permission from the sovereign. Those thus favoured, 
 upon entering, write down their names, and upon leaving it blot 
 them out. The splendour of the palace is equal to its extent ; 
 and though constructed according to the singular architecture of 
 the Chinese, which resembles no other, except perhaps, in a 
 slight degree, the Gothic, yet the whole is pleasing, and contains 
 much that is excellent, and even wonderful. 
 
54 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. x. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Oil-Painting — Chinese Delicacies — The New Year — Parental Authority — 
 Jealousy — Punishment by Proxy — Women's Feet — Visiting-Cards. 
 
 According to the command of his Majesty, on the 7th day of 
 February I went to the palace, and was conducted to the room 
 of the oil-painters, who were the pupils of a certain Gerardino, 
 the first who introduced the art of painting in oil into China. 
 After giving me a polite reception, these gentlemen offered me 
 brushes, colours, and canvas, that I might proceed to paint i. 
 their presence. For their paintings in oil they do not employ 
 canvas, but corea paper, with no further preparation than a mere 
 wash of rock-alum water. This paper is often sold in sheets as 
 large as a blanket, and is so strong that I was not able to tear it 
 Being aware of my want of skill in the art of design, I had never 
 ventured to paint any subject of my own invention, limiting my 
 ambition to the production of moderate copies ; but as copies are 
 not at all esteemed by the Chinese, I found myself in no slight 
 difficulty. I however took courage on observing that all the 
 other paiuters, to the number of seven or eight, painted nothing 
 but landscapes with Chinese houses, the Emperor caring but 
 little for pictures of figures, as I was afterwards informed. 
 Landscape-painting being by no means impossible to any one 
 who possesses a moderate knowledge of drawing the human 
 figure, I recommended my efforts to the direction of God, and 
 began to do what I had never before undertaken. Happily my 
 success was such that the Emperor was very well satisfied. Thus 
 I continued to paint till the month of April, when his Majesty 
 was pleased to command that I should betake myself to en- 
 graving. 
 
 It is the custom that all who enter the service of the monarch 
 should make him some present. Not to be wanting in this duty, 
 we three of the Propaganda presented our offering, which con- 
 
chap, x.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 55 
 
 sisted of about thirty articles of various kinds, the greater part 
 of which he accepted. The presents consisted of medicines, 
 liqueurs, confectionery, and similar things. 
 
 The Emperor sent annually to the European missionaries in 
 Peking a good supply of venison, hares, pheasants, fish, and deer- 
 sinews, as a new year's gift. This was also done for the present 
 year, with an express command that we three should receive our 
 due share. Having mentioned deer-sinews, I must add that they 
 are collected, dried, and preserved for a long time in small 
 bundles as an article of food. When they are to be eaten, they 
 are first softened in water, and then cooked. They form a dish 
 which occupies the second place of honour at a Chinese table, 
 the dish prized beyond all others consisting of swallows' nests, 
 which are found in the rocks and mountains of certain islands 
 near Canton. These nests are not composed of mud, like those 
 in our country, but of a kind of white paste, which, though taste- 
 less in itself, on being prepared with broth and condiments, 
 acquires a taste extremely delightful to the Chinese palate. The 
 flesh of dogs forms the dish held next in estimation by the 
 Chinese, and these animals are therefore kept and fed for their 
 tables. 
 
 Having mentioned the Chinese new year, which is called 
 Chin-yue, it may be proper to add that the Chinese calculate 
 their year by the moon, and not, as we do, by the sun. They 
 begin it with the new moon, which falls upon the 15th degree 
 of Aquarius, answering to the 5th of February. They count 
 twelve months, one having twenty-nine days, and the other 
 thirty ; but every five years they correct this lunar year by 
 adding a month, and then they arrive at the same point as those 
 who calculate by the sun. Days are counted from one mid- 
 night to another, and are divided into twelve parts, so that one 
 of their hours is equal to two of ours. 
 
 The commencement of the year in China reminded me of the 
 carnival amongst us, for it is celebrated in the same manner with 
 games, feasts, theatrical representations, and other amusements. 
 A few days before this festive period begins, the tribunals are 
 closed, and sealed with the imperial seal, and are not re-opened 
 till a few days after its termination. Idols painted upon paste- 
 board are affixed to the doors of the houses j and the quantity of 
 
56 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. x. 
 
 fireworks displayed at this time, in all parts of China, is truly 
 astonishing. It may indeed be affirmed, without exaggeration, 
 that on the night in which the old year terminates, and the new 
 year begins, there is more gunpowder consumed in China than 
 throughout all Europe during the whole twelve months. On 
 the last evening of the old year, children kneel down before their 
 parents, younger brothers before the elder, and servants before 
 their masters, performing all the ceremonies which the custom 
 of the country requires, and which consist of bows and prostra- 
 tions too tedious for description. These rites are also observed 
 between husbands and wives, and amongst the various grades of 
 the female sex. The same homage which is rendered by children 
 to their parents, the latter offer before the portraits of their de- 
 ceased ancestors. All this is done in strict observance of an 
 ancient custom of the country, namely, the profound reverence 
 of the young towards the aged ; and it is done with such super- 
 stitious exactness, that for any one who has not been a witness, 
 as I have bv?en, it is not easy to believe, or even to comprehend. 
 One day as I was talking in my own house with a mandarin 
 who had come to pay me a visit, his son arrived from a distant 
 part of the empire upon some business relating to the family. 
 When he came in we were seated, but he immediately went down 
 upon one knee before his father, and in this position continued 
 to speak for about a quarter of an hour. I did not move from 
 my chair, till, by the course of conversation, I discovered who 
 the person was, when I suddenly arose, protesting to the man- 
 darin that I would stand unless he allowed his son to sit down 
 also. A lengthened contest ensued, the father saying that he 
 would quit his seat if I continued to stand ; I myself declaring 
 that it was impossible for me to sit while his son was kneeling ; 
 and the son protesting that before his father he must remain on 
 his knees. At last, however, I overcame every scruple, and the 
 mandarin signified to his son by a sign that he might be seated. 
 He instantly obeyed, but he retreated to a corner of the room, 
 where he timidly seated himself upon the edge of a chest. A year 
 after this, the son again came to visit me, having now become a 
 mandarin himself. I offered him the seat of honour which was 
 due to him, but he refused it, saying that it did not become him 
 to take the same seat which, as I might remember, his father 
 
chap, x.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 57 
 
 had occupied the year before. Accordingly, when an emperor 
 dies, his son never sits upon the same throne, but upon that 
 which had been used by his grandfather. 
 
 Not only are children thus submissive to their parents, but, as 
 before observed, younger brothers to the elder. Being one day 
 out of Peking in attendance upon the Emperor, I was visited by 
 a boy of about twelve or thirteen years of age, accompanied by 
 his brother, who was a child of about five or six years old, very 
 lively and interesting. I asked the latter several questions, which 
 he answered with so much intelligence that I gave him a hand- 
 kerchief; but no sooner was it offered than he withdrew his 
 hands, and put them behind him in sign of refusal. I asked him 
 what he meant, when he replied, " Ko-ko," that is, " elder bro- 
 ther." I then desired his brother to permit him to take it, and a 
 nod from him was sufficient for the gay and joyous child, who in- 
 stantly took the gift and returned thanks, as the common people 
 in China do to persons of high rank, by kneeling down before 
 me, and performing the Ko-tow, which is an inclination of the 
 head down to the ground. 
 
 I may add that the Chinese women live entirely shut up by 
 themselves in a remote apartment of their houses.i Among 
 persons of rank they are seldom allowed to go out, unless it be 
 during the rejoicings of the new year, and even then they are 
 shut up in sedans. They are indeed kept so strictly that they 
 are not permitted to speak even with the father or the brothers 
 of their husbands, much less with their uncles, or any other man, 
 however close may be the relationship. Upon the occasion of 
 the new year, the wife goes with her husband to perform the 
 above-mentioned ceremonies and homage before her father-in- 
 law and her own parents. She also performs these duties on the 
 birthdays of the same relatives ; and except on these days, her 
 father-in-law is not allowed either to speak to her or enter her 
 chamber. And here I will not omit the description of a prac- 
 tice which, while it proves the excellent social order of the 
 Chinese, caused me to smile when I heard of it. If a man, for 
 careless conduct or any other fault, considers it his duty to cor- 
 rect his daughter-in-law, as he cannot, according to the custom 
 of the country, either enter her room or speak to her, and much 
 less beat her, he summons his son before him, and after re- 
 
58 FATHER RTPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. x. 
 
 p reaching him with the faults of his wife, he bids him prostrate 
 himself, and inflicts a severe flogging upon him. The son then 
 rises upon his knees, and, touching the ground with his forehead, 
 thanks his father for the castigation ; after which he goes to his 
 wife, and repeats the correction exactly, giving her the same 
 number of blows that he received from his father. 
 
 From their inordinate jealousy arose the custom of crippling 
 the feet of the women, in order to render walking a torment, and 
 induce them to remain at home. I was informed by Chinese 
 that the first who discovered this stratagem was one of their 
 ancient emperors, who purposely hinted that nothing was more 
 beautiful in a woman than to have the smallest feet possible. 
 This imperial opinion being made public throughout China, 
 every husband desired that his wife should be in the fashion, and 
 mothers sought to secure to their daughters an imaginary beauty 
 which it was found could be procured by art. Accordingly, at 
 the tender age of three months, female infants have their feet 
 bound so tightly that the growth of this part of the body is en- 
 tirely stopped, and they cannot walk without hobbling and 
 limping ; and if upon any occasion they endeavour to quicken 
 their pace, they are in danger of falling at every step. Even 
 when walking at a slow pace, they find it impossible to balance 
 their bodies upon a support so small and disproportionate, and 
 are consequently obliged to walk like ducks, waddling about 
 from right to left. In cases of marriage, the parties not being 
 able to see each other, it is customary to send the exact dimen- 
 sions of the lady's foot to her intended, instead of sending him 
 her portrait, as we do in Europe. In this particular, indeed, 
 their taste is perverted to such an extraordinary degree, that I 
 knew a physician who lived with a woman with whom he had 
 no other intercourse but that of viewing and fondling her feet. 
 
 At the beginning of the new year, friends and acquaintances 
 visit each other, leaving their names written on red cards, which 
 are called Tia-zoo. It is worthy of remark that, although the 
 person visited be at home, he may order his servant to say that 
 he is not, without giving any offence to the visitor — every one 
 wishing at this time to enjoy himself at his leisure with his 
 dearest relations and friends. 
 
 The mandarins, all the year round, dress plainly, and always 
 

 chap, x.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 59 
 
 in the same colours, wearing a purple or black spencer, and a 
 gown, either drab, buff, or some other quiet colour. Red and 
 yellow they never wear, these two colours being prohibited as 
 belonging to the imperial family. During the festal season, how- 
 ever, and on the Emperor's birthday, the mandarins aie clothed 
 in robes richly embroidered in gold, each bearing the peculiar 
 badge of his rank. The military mandarins are distinguished by 
 the dragon, and the mandarins of learning and science by the 
 bird, which they wear embroidered upon their breasts. Thus 
 splendidly arrayed, they go to the palace to pay their homage to 
 the Emperor, whom, however, they do not see; but assembling 
 in vast numbers in a great open court, they perform their genu- 
 flexions and prostrations while he remains seated upon his throne 
 in the great hall. 
 
 I witnessed this ceremony several times, and must say that it 
 was very splendid and imposing. The same sort of homage was 
 also paid by all the Europeans, but separately, in another part of 
 the palace, and never in company with the mandarins. 
 
 V- 
 
60 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. BE, 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Sacrifice to Heaven — Fireworks — The Emperor's Palace near Peking — 
 Landscape Gardening— Chinese Flattery. 
 
 One morning, upon my going to the Palace as usual, I received 
 an order from the Emperor to attend him at Chan-choon-yuen, 
 a country residence about three miles from Peking, to which 
 his Majesty frequently repaired, and spent from five to six 
 months in the year. In obedience to this command, I imme- 
 diately set out for that place with Father Jartou, who was 
 assigned to me as an interpreter ; and on our arrival we were 
 lodged close to the imperial palace, in the house of Ttong-kew- 
 kew, the emperor's uncle, who was ordered to provide for our 
 maintenance. His Majesty moreover every day sent me a horse 
 to ride ; but as it was vicious and untamed, I left it for my 
 attendant, so as not to expose my life to danger, and made use 
 of another which I kept at my own expense. In addition to 
 this, I was obliged to find myself in clothing and other neces- 
 saries out of the annual allowance of about forty pounds which 
 I received from the Propaganda. The maintenance and the 
 horse were granted to those Europeans who were in immediate 
 attendance on the Emperor ; the others who resided in Peking, 
 although also in his Majesty's service, were only allowed coals, 
 rice, and other articles, amounting to about twenty pounds 
 a-year. 
 
 Shortly afterwards we accompanied his Majesty to Peking, 
 where he remained three days, for the celebration of the solemn 
 sacrifice to heaven, worshipped by the literary sect, of which the 
 Emperor is the head. For this purpose two splendid temples 
 are erected in Peking and Nanking, and in these the Emperor 
 alone is entitled to sacrifice, in the name of the whole of his 
 people. If by any chance he is prevented from performing this 
 function, his place is supplied by magistrates of the highest 
 

 chap, xi.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 61 
 
 rank. Any other person attempting to do the same commits 
 the crime of high treason, and is punished accordingly. 
 
 In these temples the sacrifices consist of the immolation of 
 vast numbers of sheep and oxen, accompanied by a variety of 
 ceremonies. The Chinese prepare for these sacrifices by fasting, 
 bathing, continence, and eating no tiesh of animals slain during 
 the fast, though that of animals killed before may be eaten. 
 
 Upon our return to Chan-choon-yuen, we were all invited 
 by the Emperor to witness the display of fireworks annually 
 made to celebrate the new year. In the evening therefore we 
 all assembled in a large open space within the enclosure of the 
 imperial gardens. The Emperor was present, together with his 
 ladies, but concealed from public view. The grand spectacle 
 commenced with what appeared to be a great fountain of fire 
 rising out of the ground. While this was burning, a great chest 
 was raised into the air to the height of nearly one hundred feet, 
 and from thence it let down a splendid wheel of fire. This was 
 no sooner out than a great column descended from the chest to 
 the earth, consisting of an infinite number of little stars, and 
 accompanied by four other columns formed of paper lanterns, 
 all illuminated within. This beautiful sight lasted a consider- 
 able time, when another burning fountain appeared, nearly 
 similar to the last ; then a variety of columns of different shapes 
 and colours, which also continued some time, keeping the spec- 
 tators in a state of enchantment, all the Europeans admitting 
 that they had never seen any thing so admirable in their own 
 countries. This part of the spectacle was succeeded by a pyro- 
 technic exhibition, which the Chinese call tfie war, being a dis- 
 charge of numberless rockets, which move in opposite directions, 
 and then strike against some boards, producing a noise exactly 
 similar to that of arrows shot from two contending armies. 
 While this was going on, flaming fountains arose out of the 
 earth in various directions, wheels and girandoles of fire were in 
 motion on all sides, and the uproar was completed by continued 
 and powerful reports like volleys of artillery. Fireworks, more 
 or less splendid according to circumstances, are also exhibited 
 on this occasion at the seats of persons of rank, for the amuse- 
 ment and diversion of the ladies, and the lower orders in genera] 
 are particularly fond of this amusement. 
 
62 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xi. 
 
 The Emperor's country residence, called Chan-choon-yuen, 
 which signifies " eternal spring," was built by Kang-hy himself 
 for his recreation. It is situated in a plain, and surrounded by 
 other mansions, all of which are enclosed within walls, and in- 
 habited by his sons and the nobility. The entrances to this 
 palace and its grounds are always guarded by Tartar soldiers, 
 who allow none to pass but the eunuchs, and those to whom 
 permission has been granted, in which case their names are 
 written down upon tablets. On arriving at the gate, those who 
 are not known are asked Ko-poo-pee, signifying, what is your 
 name? and if the name they give is inserted upon the tablets, 
 they are permitted to enter. After going through a kind of 
 open hall, another gate is reached, where some eunuchs write 
 upon a large white board the names of those who go in, and 
 efface them with a damp cloth when they come out. In this 
 manner they know whether any stranger stops in the palace after 
 a certain hour in the evening, when no one is permitted to re- 
 main but eunuchs. The same precaution is taken in the im- 
 perial palaces at Peking and Je-hol, in consequence of the 
 excessive jealousy with which the Emperor's ladies are guarded. 
 
 This, as well as the other country residences M'hich I have 
 seen in China, is in a taste quite different from the European ; 
 for whereas we seek to exclude nature by art, levelling hills, 
 drying up lakes, felling trees, bringing paths into a straight line, 
 constructing fountains at a great expense, and raising flowers in 
 rows, the Chinese on the contrary, by means of art, endeavour 
 to imitate nature. Thus in these gardens there are labyrinths of 
 artificial hills, intersected with numerous paths and roads, some 
 straight, and others undulating; some in the plain and the 
 valley, others carried over bridges and to the summit of the hills 
 by means of rustic work of stones and shells. The lakes are 
 interspersed with islets upon which small pleasure-houses are 
 constructed, and which are reached by means of boats or bridges. 
 To these houses, when fatigued with fishing, the Emperor retires 
 accompanied by his ladies. The woods contain hares, deer, and 
 game in great numbers, and a certain animal resembling the 
 deer, which produces musk. Some of the open spaces are sown 
 with grain and vegetables, and are interspersed with plots of 
 fruit trees and flowers. Wherever a convenient situation offers, 
 
chap. xi.J AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 6* 
 
 lies a house of recreation, or a dwelling for the eunuchs. There 
 is also the seraglio, with a large open space in front, in which 
 once a month a fair is held for the entertainment of the ladies ; 
 all the dealers being the eunuchs themselves, who thus dispose of 
 articles of the most valuable and exquisite description. 
 
 The Emperor was just about to set out on a shooting and 
 fishing excursion upon a lake in the plains of Peking, and all 
 the Europeans came from the capital to wish the monarch a 
 pleasant journey. In this, as indeed in every other similar in- 
 stance, we delivered our message to the mandarins on our knees, 
 and they then conveyed it to their master. Upon the Emperor's 
 return I again went to Je-hol, when his Majesty inquired whe- 
 ther I had been every day with the painters, what I had done, 
 and whether I had made any progress in the Chinese language. 
 I replied that I had been daily at the palace, and stated what I 
 had painted. With respect to the language, he was informed 
 that I made myself understood partly by words and partly by 
 signs, and that when these were not sufficient, I drew what I 
 meant. Upon hearing this, he commanded that I should no 
 longer have an interpreter, that I might thus be obliged to ex- 
 press my wants in Chinese, and so learn the language more 
 quickly. The Emperor further ordered that Don Pedrini should 
 come and lodge in the house of Tton-kew-kew, for the purpose 
 of tuning the cymbals and spinets, which his Majesty had in 
 great numbers in all his palaces. When it was stated that Pe- 
 drini did not understand the language, he replied that was of no 
 consequence, as cymbals were tuned with the hands, and not with 
 the tongue. However, he afterwards assigned Father Parrenin 
 as interpreter to Pedrini. 
 
 The Emperor supposed himself to be an excellent musician, 
 and a still better mathematician ; but though he had a taste for 
 the sciences and other acquirements in general, he knew nothing 
 of music, and scarcely understood the first elements of mathe- 
 matics. There was a cymbal or a spinet in almost eveiy apart- 
 ment, but neither he nor his ladies could play upon them : 
 sometimes indeed with one of his fingers he touched a note, 
 which was enough-, according to the extravagant flattery prac- 
 tised at the court of China, to throw the by-standers into ecstasies 
 of admiration ? as I myself have often witnessed. I must say 
 
64 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xi. 
 
 that 1 was not a little surprised to find how Kang-hy, who was 
 really a man of enlarged understanding, believed all the exag- 
 gerated praises of his courtiers, and was childishly vain. This 
 was perhaps to be attributed to the flattery that had been conti- 
 nually lavished upon him since the eighth year of his age, whon 
 he began to reign. 
 
 The Emperor one day saw the portrait of a Tartar, which he 
 had ordered me to draw, and he said it was a good likeness. He 
 then commanded Pedrini to play on the cymbals, and also ex- 
 pressed himself much pleased with the performance. As a sign 
 of his satisfaction, he afterwards sent us some eatables, a favour 
 which he subsequently often repeated. 
 
chap, xii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 65 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Survey of China, Tartary, and Corea — Order to engrave — Fall from a 
 Horse — Tartar Surgeon — Water Cure. 
 
 For many years past the Emperor had despatched several 
 Jesuits into the different provinces of China, with the injunction 
 that they should make a correct survey of them. Wishing that 
 Tartary should be equally surveyed, he confided the task to 
 Father Jartou, assigning him Father Fabri as an assistant. 
 
 The expense attending this undertaking was immense, for the 
 whole of the vast empire of China, Tartary, and nearly thirty 
 tributary principalities and kingdoms, including Corea, were to 
 be surveyed ; the longitude being measured by means of long 
 chains, and the latitude with mathematical instruments. This 
 operation required the services of numerous individuals, super- 
 intended by many mandarins, and lasted fourteen years. The 
 kingdom of Corea, however, and that of Thibet, could not be 
 measured with much exactness ; for the Coreans being extremely 
 jealous of strangers, would not admit Europeans ; and this part 
 of the business was consequently executed by a mandarin, pur- 
 posely instructed by the Jesuits, and then sent thither by the 
 Emperor, under pretext of an embassy : even then they watched 
 every movement of the mandarin so closely, that he could not 
 take a step without being observed by the guards, who never left 
 him, and wrote down all he said or did. Thus, being unable to 
 measure the longitude with a line, he could only calculate the 
 miles by the hour. This ambassador, with whom I was inti- 
 mately acquainted, informed me that he had only succeeded in 
 taking the sun's altitude by making them believe that the in- 
 strument he used was a sun-dial, and that he stopped to look 
 at it in order to ascertain the time. Although Thibet had been 
 nearly conquered by the Emperor, it was still governed by the 
 Lamas : his Majesty would not, therefore, for political reasons, 
 
66 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, xii, 
 
 send thither any other persons than two Lamas, but these had 
 been previously instructed by the Jesuits. 
 
 The Emperor had long desired to have some one in his service 
 who could engrave the geographical map above mentioned. He 
 accordingly inquired whether Pedrini, Tilisch, and I understood 
 any thing besides music, mathematics, and painting. They replied 
 in the negative ; and I said that I knew something of optics, and 
 also the theory, though not the practice, of the art of engraving 
 on copper with aquafortis. His Majesty was highly pleased to 
 hear that, although I had not practised the art of engraving, I 
 was ready to attempt it, and he immediately ordered that I should 
 begin to engrave. In the shortest time possible, I, with a point, 
 traced a landscape upon a plate coated over with lamp-black, as 
 a preparation for the aquafortis ; and I had scarcely done this 
 when the Emperor desired to see it. As subjects on plates thus 
 prepared present a very handsome appearance, the Emperor was 
 delighted with it, and commanded his Chinese painters to draw 
 a landscape, in order that I might afterwards engrave it. As 
 soon as it was done it was shown, together with the original, to 
 his Majesty, who expressed considerable delight and surprise at 
 finding the copy so perfectly similar to the original, without this 
 being impaired ; for this was the first time that he had seen an 
 engraving on copper, the Chinese making theirs by fixing the 
 drawing on a block of wood, and cutting them both at once with 
 a chisel. 
 
 To avoid the heat of summer, which is always excessive in 
 Peking, the Emperor Kang-hy had been accustomed to make 
 excursions, by land and water, to the south of China. But as 
 this diversion caused an expense which was extremely burden- 
 some to his subjects, he had built himself a country residence at 
 Je-hol, in Tartary, where he now usually resided from the 
 beginning of May till the end of September, with an escort of 
 about thirty thousand men, besides a great multitude of people 
 who resorted thither for the love of gain or pleasure. I was 
 commanded to follow him thither, together with Father Tilisch, 
 in the capacity of a mathematician ; Father Rod, in that of a 
 surgeon ; Father Parrenin, and Don Pedrini, as interpreters. 
 We all set out together on horseback, but, before we were out 
 of the city, my horse slipped, and I was instantly thrown re- 
 

 chap, xii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 67 
 
 ceiving frightful wounds in my head and other parts of my body. 
 As my companions did not dare to stop, they recommended me to 
 the care of two heathens, and left me fainting in the street, where 
 I remained in this state for a considerable time. 
 
 When I recovered my senses, I found myself in a house, but 
 every thing appeared dark and indistinct, and I felt as if I had 
 fallen from my horse two months before. The Emperor sent me 
 a Tartar surgeon, for he and his court were fully persuaded that 
 for falls Tartar surgeons were better than Europeans. And, to 
 confess the truth, although the mode of treatment was of a bar- 
 barous description, and some of the remedies appeared useless, I 
 was cured in a very short time. This surgeon made me sit up 
 in my bed, placing near me a large basin filled with water, in 
 which he put a thick piece of ice, to reduce it to a freezing-point. 
 Then stripping me to the waist, he made me stretch my neck 
 over the basin, and, with a cup, he continued for a good while to 
 pour the water on my neck. The pain caused by this operation 
 upon those nerves which take their rise from the pia-mater was 
 so great and insufferable, that it seemed to me unequalled. The 
 surgeon said that this would stanch the blood and restore me to 
 my senses, which was actually the case ; for in a short time my 
 sight became clear, and my mind resumed its powers. 
 
 He next bound my head with a band, drawn tight by two men, 
 who held the ends, while he struck the intermediate part vigo- 
 rously with a piece of wood, which shook my head violently, aud 
 gave me dreadful pain. This, if I remember rightly, he said 
 was to set the brain, which he supposed had been displaced. It 
 is true, however, that after this second operation my head felt 
 more free. 
 
 A third operation was now performed, during which he made 
 me, still stripped to the waist, walk in the open air, supported 
 by two persons ; and, while thus walking, he unexpectedly 
 threw a bowl of freezing cold water over my breast. As this 
 caused me to draw my breath with great vehemence, and as my 
 chest had been injured by the fall, it may be easily imagined what 
 were my sufferings under this inHiction. The surgeou informed 
 me that, if any rib had been dislocated, this sudden and hard 
 breathing would restore it to its natural position. 
 
 The next proceeding was not less painful and extravagant. 
 
 f 2 
 
68 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xn. 
 
 The operator made me sit upon the ground ; then, assisted by two 
 men, he held a cloth upon my mouth and nose till I was nearly 
 suffocated. " This," said the Chinese Esculapius, " by causing 
 a violent heaving of the chest, will force back any rib that may 
 have been bent inwards." 
 
 The wound in the head not being deep, he healed it by stuffing 
 it with burnt cotton. He then ordered that I should continue 
 to walk much, supported by two persons ; that I should not sit 
 Jong, nor be allowed to sleep before ten o'clock at night, at 
 which time, and not before, I should take a little hifan, that is, 
 thin rice soup. This continued walking caused me to faint several 
 times; but this had been foreseen by the surgeon, who had 
 warned me not to be alarmed. He assured me that these walks 
 in the open air, while fasting, would prevent the blood from 
 settling on the chest, where it might corrupt. These remedies 
 were barbarous and excruciating ; but I am bound in truth to 
 Confess that in seven days I was so completely restored as to be 
 able to resume my journey into Tartary. 
 
 On the very morning that I fell from my horse the Emperor 
 three times sent a commission, consisting of two mandarins, 
 three secretaries, and two physicians, to examine me upon the 
 subject of the accident. I constantly affirmed in my answers 
 that the horse was excellent, and that I had fallen from my 
 ignorance of horsemanship. I thus saved from punishment both 
 the officer who had brought me the horse and the mandarins who 
 had been charged with the arrangements of our journey. These 
 poor men had lived in the greatest dread, fearing that some com- 
 plaint might escape me, which, however slight, would cause 
 their destruction. For this reason they now conceived a great 
 affection for me, and upon different occasions they rendered me 
 important services. 
 
chap, xiii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 69 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Great Wall— Mountain near Je-hol — Attempts to engrave— Description 
 of Je-hol — The Emperor's Country Life. 
 
 As his Majesty was now aware that I could not ride, he ordered 
 that as soon as I was in a fit state to set out I should travel in a 
 carriage. In this journey I passed the famous wall which divides 
 China from Tartary, and well deserves to be considered as a 
 wonder of the world. The Chinese say that it is more than ten 
 thousand lee in length, which is equal to more than three thou- 
 sand miles ; but I have been assured that it does not exceed 
 fifteen hundred. Its course is not always even, sometimes de- 
 scending into deep valleys, at others rising to the top of lofty 
 mountains. Its height constantly varies, being much greater in 
 certain situations, especially in the valleys, whilst in some places 
 it does not rise higher than fifteen feet. In some parts this wall 
 is built entirely of stone, in others of brick, in others of stone 
 and brick mixed ; and such is its breadth, that carriages can 
 drive along the top with ease. I was informed that the interior 
 of the wall was filled up with earth, and that it was built of that 
 breadth not only for convenience in time of war, but also to faci- 
 litate the transport of materials when it was building, as it would 
 otherwise have been impossible to carry it over steep and preci- 
 pitous spots. It would in fact have been beneath the advanced 
 civilization of the Chinese to build a national barrier, passing 
 over rocks, ravines, and mountains, without providing a passage 
 for horse and foot soldiers. 
 
 Upon examining this work I was greatly astonished to find that 
 although it was built more than eighteen hundred years ago, it 
 is still so perfect that it does not appear to have been finished 
 above a century. It is decayed only in a few places, and these 
 dilapidations the Tartars, who are now in possession of China, 
 do not trouble themselves to repair. They only preserve and 
 
70 FATHER RIPA*S RESIDENCE [chap. xiii. 
 
 defend the gates through which there is much traffic. Under the 
 native Chinese government one million of soldiers were employed 
 to guard and garrison this marvellous work. 
 
 Before arriving at the wall we had entered a country diversi- 
 fied with hills and plains ; but on the other side of the gate 
 nothing was to be seen but mountains, and the road lay through 
 valleys and defiles, which appeared walled between the heights 
 on either side. Until we had reached Je-hol I did not observe a 
 single Tartar habitation, but only some inns erected by the Chi- 
 nese for the accommodation of travellers since the Emperor had 
 removed his residence thither. Besides these, at intervals of 
 about fifteen miles, there are palaces surrounded by walls, which 
 are used by the Emperor and his concubines on his way to Je- 
 hol and back. Among these mountains the mornings were so 
 cold that it was necessary to wear furs ; but when the sun had 
 risen the heat became insupportable. Near Je-hol I one day had 
 the pleasure of ascending a mountain higher than the rest, and 
 was much surprised at the extraordinary appearance of the sum- 
 mits around, which looked like the waves of a boundless sea — a 
 spectacle, perhaps, without a parallel in the whole world. From 
 this situation I also beheld one of those sports of nature at once 
 so unaccountable aud so stupendous, which I have described in 
 the journey from Canton to Peking ; but this was much more 
 lofty, and of a different form, resembling the fabulous club of 
 Hercules. 
 
 After twenty days' journey we arrived safely at Je-hol. On 
 the following day I went to the palace to return thanks for the 
 surgical assistance sent me by the Emperor, which I did by 
 means of the Ko-tow, this ceremony being unavoidable whenever 
 the Emperor has conferred any favour, however trifling. Upon 
 this occasion I was given to understand that I must finish the 
 copper-plate upon which I was employed, and immediately after 
 take off prints from it. Of the art of engraving with aquafortis 
 I knew no more than what I had learned in a single lesson given 
 me by an artist at Rome in compliance with the wishes of a friend 
 who, as if by providential foresight, had earnestly recommended 
 me to learn it 
 
 I now inquired for the ingredients necessary to make aqua- 
 fortis, that is, strong white wine vinegar, sal ammoniac, and 
 
chap, xin.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 71 
 
 verdigris. The sal ammoniac could be procured in abundance, 
 but the verdigris was greatly inferior to ours, and the vinegar, 
 not being made with grape wine, but with sugar and other articles, 
 was not fit for my purpose. Thus, owing to the inefficiency of 
 the aquafortis, the lines were very shallow, which, added to the 
 badness of the ink, caused the prints to be of the worst possible 
 description. It cost me no small amount of labour before I 
 could bring this kind of engraving to any degree of perfection. 
 
 To make the ink tartar was necessary, but of this a few 
 pounds only could be found in the imperial drug-house, and I 
 was obliged to employ other materials. After many experi- 
 ments, however, I produced a tolerable specimen. 
 
 In the construction of a press I was again encountered by in- 
 numerable difficulties, having never even seen one but once, 
 when I paid no particular attention to it. I now ordered one to 
 be made, having the lower cylinder fixed and the upper one 
 moveable. In consequence of this, when it was worked the effect 
 produced was of the worst description, and drew forth the laugh- 
 ter and jests of the eunuchs, mandarins, and many other persons 
 belonging to the court, so that my trouble and confusion were 
 complete. Recollecting, however, the high purpose for which I 
 had come to China, I contrived to bear all this with patience and 
 good humour. His Majesty having seen the prints which I had 
 engraved, was kind enough to excuse them, though they were 
 very pale* He even declared they were excellent ; and this he 
 always continued to do, never finding fault with what I pro- 
 duced. 
 
 Besides the annoyances already mentioned, I had to endure 
 other interruptions, proceeding from envious persons, amongst 
 whom were some mandarins, who, being displeased at my having 
 gained the Emperor's favour, endeavoured in various ways to 
 bring me into disgrace. Amongst many other malevolent 
 actions, having seen that my work was not at first very success- 
 ful, they employed a letter-cutter to engrave a plate with the 
 graver : he transferred the outlines tolerably by following closely 
 the design of the painter ; but as he did not understand the har- 
 mony of light and shade, when the prints were drawn off his 
 plate they presented a wretched appearance. The mandarin 
 Chow, who had the chief care of the Europeans, was so disap- 
 
72 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xiii. 
 
 pointed and incensed, that he tore the prints to pieces, and 
 ordered the poor man to be bastinadoed. 
 
 Perceiving that I had made some progress in the art of en- 
 graving, his Majesty resolved to have prints of thirty-six differ- 
 ent views taken from the residence of Je-hol built by himself. 
 Accordingly I went there with the Chinese painters whom he 
 had ordered to make the drawings, and I thus had an opportunity 
 to see the whole of the grounds, a distinguished favour which 
 had never yet been conferred on any other European. 
 
 The residence of Je-hol is in Tartary, about one hundred and 
 fifty miles distant from Peking. It is situated in a plain sur- 
 rounded with mountains, whence flows a torrent, which, though 
 usually dry, swells fearfully in time of rain or thaw. A few 
 years before, when its destructive diameter was not yet known, 
 and before the present houses were built, it carried away by a 
 sudden overflow in the night an encampment of many thousand, 
 persons. A hill rises gently from the plain, its side studded 
 with buildings destined for the Emperor's followers, and a copious 
 spring of water, after winding round a variety of delightful 
 slopes, forms a noble lake containing a remarkable quantity of 
 fish. 
 
 To an admirable disposition of the ground, nature has here 
 added the charms of a luxuriant vegetation. Throughout the 
 vast extent of those regions of Tartary a tree is rarely seen. At 
 Je-hol, however, the plain, the slopes, and the hill are thickly 
 covered with foliage; and the filberts, corianders, pears, and 
 apples, though growing wild, have so delicious a flavour that 
 they are served on the Emperor's table. The plain, slopes, and- 
 hill are so extensive that it took me an hour to make the tour of 
 the inclosure on horseback. 
 
 Various habitations, more or less large according to their use, 
 are erected here and there in different spots about the grounds : 
 one for his Majesty ; behind this, one for his concubines, who 
 lodge three or four in each room ; another for his mother, others 
 for his queens, and others for the eunuchs. There is also a Miao, 
 or temple of idols, which is constantly attended by a great number 
 of Taou-she, or priests of the devil, who are all eunuchs, dressed 
 in yellow. It is to this Miao that the Emperor goes with his 
 ladies to make sacrifices and adorations during his stay in Je-hol. 
 
chap, xiii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 73 
 
 There are, besides, many cottages and summer-houses: these 
 summer-houses are built in different forms, but all in good taste, 
 and very clean. They are provided with silk curtains on all 
 sides, so as to prevent observation from without ; and have seats 
 all around, with a table or bed in the centre. These cottages 
 and summer-houses are for the service of the Emperor, who re- 
 tires thither with his queens and concubines ; for at Je-hol he 
 rarely sees any one except his ladies and eunuchs. With his 
 ladies on foot around him, he is carried about the grounds by 
 eunuchs, in an open chair ; with them he sails in little boats, 
 fishing in the canals and the lakes ; with them he eats — always, 
 however, alone, upon a raised platform, whilst they take their 
 food seated on the floor, each at her little table. Even when 
 studying he is surrounded by his favourite queens, as I myself 
 have often seen. 
 
 U* 
 
74 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xiv. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 The Emperor's Retinue— The Little Hunt — Stag-hunting — Tiger -hunting- 
 Wrestling and Archery — Silence in the Camp. 
 
 In the month of September the Emperor usually indulged in 
 stag-hunting; and this year, 1711, in order that we Europeans 
 might witness the sport, he took us all five with him. We set 
 out on the 11th for Kara-kotton, an ancient city which had been 
 destroyed by the Chinese when they expelled the Western 
 Tartars. Before building the residence of Je-hol, above de- 
 scribed, his Majesty used to spend the summer month? in this 
 place, where, besides his palace, several edifices are still extant, 
 partly erected by him for his suite, and partly by the Chinese, 
 who repair thither for trade. Although it had been abandoned 
 by the Emperor, it still contained a considerable population. 
 
 Very early on the 12th we resumed our journey, and, after 
 travelling about twenty miles, we came to a place called Lan- 
 chee-siao-ing, where we passed the night under tents. Beyond 
 this spot there are no other habitations but the palaces intended 
 for the reception of the Emperor and his ladies. The rest of the 
 company lodge in tents, which, from one of the neighbouring 
 heights, form a noble sight, looking like the encampment of an 
 army. Out of thirty thousand soldiers, wliich the Emperor had 
 with him at Je-hol, only twelve thousand accompanied him to 
 the hunt ; but his retinue was so numerous that our party must 
 have amounted to more than thirty thousand persons. On the 
 slope of a hill a Miao had been erected long before the arrival 
 of the Emperor ; and the hill was surrounded with soldiers, who 
 allowed no one to pass, because his Majesty was expected to 
 alight with the ladies of his suite, as in feet he did before pro- 
 ceeding to his palace. The ladies he brought with him were in 
 six carriages, three of which were yellow and three black, the 
 former for the queens, the latter for the concubines. Those of 
 
chap, xiv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 75 
 
 the crown-princes were in three carriages, one yellow and two 
 black. Each carriage contained four ladies, seated in the Tartar 
 fashion with their legs crossed. Wherever these women passed, 
 everybody was obliged to pay them reverence, by quickly fleeing 
 away and hiding themselves so that they might neither see them 
 nor be seen : those who were not very active in the performance 
 of this duty never failed to receive a good beating from the 
 mandarins or eunuchs of the escort. We Europeans, however, 
 were treated with less severity. It often happened that we met 
 them in places where it was inconvenient to avoid them, and 
 that, whilst the Chinese were driven away without mercy, we 
 were not at all molested. 
 
 On the 13th we left Kara-kotton before daybreak, and pro- 
 ceeded to Poro-kotton, another ancient city, which had likewise 
 been demolished by the Chinese. The following day was spent by 
 the Emperor in fishing in a river flowing by. We then resumed 
 our journey, and arrived at a place called Epakia, where his Ma- 
 jesty slept in a palace for the last time, as henceforth tents were 
 the only accommodation on the road. About halfway stood 
 three large circular tents, of white canvas, within a yellow in- 
 closure of the same material. One of them was for the Emperor, 
 another for the crown-prince, and the third for the ladies. There 
 were, besides, some blue tents, of inferior quality, for the eunuchs. 
 Here his Majesty stopped two hours, in the middle of the day, 
 for dinner and repose : and at the place where we arrived in the 
 evening we found other tents of the same description, and dis- 
 posed in the same manner. 
 
 After another day's rest and one of travelling, on the after- 
 noon of the 17th we began what they call the little hunt, which 
 is for deer, hares, and pheasants. Hitherto, we Europeans had 
 preceded the company about two hours' march — the Emperor 
 intending that we should thus avoid the dust and confusion 
 always produced by a whole army on horseback ; now, however, 
 to enable us to enjoy the sport, he ordered that we should march 
 immediately after him, and keep within sight of him. We had 
 come to a small plain covered with luxuriant verdure, where a 
 number of soldiers formed a semicircle around the Emperor, who 
 was a few steps in advance, followed by his family and suite, all 
 armed with bows and arrows, and flanked by falconers. 
 
76 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xiv. 
 
 As the circle advanced at a slow pace, innumerable pheasants, 
 hares, and deer were seen to fly or run out of the grass and the 
 bushes in all directions. Eagles, trained for the purpose, were 
 let loose upon the deer ; against the hares and pheasants arrows 
 and hawks were employed. This continued for about an hour, 
 when we came to the end of the plain, and were obliged to pro- 
 ceed in search of another spot across those valleys and hills of 
 Tartary. Then, when we came to the other places adapted to 
 the sport, this was repeated several times, and always in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Having crossed several hills, we now arrived in an open 
 place, skirted by verdant heights ; and in the early morning the 
 stag-hunt was begun, which being conducted in a manner quite 
 different from ours, I shall here describe minutely. On this 
 occasion the army consisted of twelve thousand soldiers, divided 
 into two wings, one of which passed on towards the east, then 
 turned northward, whilst the other proceeded to the west, then 
 likewise turned in a northern direction. As they marched on, 
 each man halted, so as to remain about a bow-shot distant 
 from the next, till at length they surrounded the hills. Then, 
 at a given word, in an instant they all advanced slowly towards 
 the centre of the circle, driving the stags before them, and went 
 on in this manner till one was not more than half a bow-shot 
 distant from the other. Every alternate soldier now halted, 
 and the next continuing to advance, two circles were formed, 
 one being at a considerable distance from the other. After this 
 they all moved in the same direction till the soldiers of the 
 inner circle being so near as to shake hands, they divided again 
 and formed a third circle ; when, preserving their relative dis- 
 tances, they advanced again till the soldiers and horses of the 
 innermost circle touched each other. 
 
 The inner or third circle was less than a bow-shot distant 
 from the second, but the distance from this to the outer circle 
 was much greater. The three circles having thus taken up their 
 ultimate position, the Emperor entered into the centre, followed 
 by the male part of his family and relatives, and surrounded by 
 the best and most expert hunters, armed for his defence. The 
 ladies were conducted into pavilions erected upon a neighbour- 
 ing hill, where they could view the sport without being seen. 
 
chap, xiv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 77 
 
 A similar situation was allotted to us, but we remained on 
 horseback. 
 
 The signal being giyen, the Emperor himself opened the chase 
 by killing with his arrows a good number of the multitude of 
 stags thus surrounded ; and when weary ne gave permission to 
 his sons and relations to imitate him. The stags, perceiving 
 themselves hemmed in and slaughtered on all sides, attempted to 
 escape by breaking through the circle ; but the soldiers, being 
 accustomed to this, instantly drove them back with shouts and 
 the noise they produced by striking the leather housings of the 
 horses with their stirrups. Many of the stag3, however, urged 
 by pain or fear, leaped over the horses, or forced a passage with 
 their horns. The soldiers of the second circle then endeavoured 
 to drive them back to the centre ; but if they did not succeed, 
 those of the third were permitted to kill the fugitives. Nor 
 were the animals that chanced to escape from the soldiers 
 entirely safe, for they could then be destroyed by any one who 
 might happen to meet them. 
 
 Tigers generally make their abode in the most rugged and 
 inaccessible mountains of Tartary ; but they are sometimes found 
 among these hills watching for deer and other prey. When it is 
 discovered that there is more than one, the circles are imme- 
 diately dissolved, the soldiers retire to the encampment with 
 great precaution, and no further attempt at hunting is made 
 there that year. If, however, no more than one of these fero- 
 cious animals has been observed, the soldiers* dismount, and di- 
 viding into bands of five men each, they take up various posi- 
 tions, with lance in hand, instead of bows and arrows : being thus 
 prepared, they let loose a number of dogs, not to hunt the beast, 
 but to intimidate him by their barking, and drive him from his 
 lair, which is very soon effected. When the tiger appears, the sol- 
 diers remain motionless, knowing it to be the nature of this beast 
 to attack. Fixing his eyes, therefore, upon one of these groups 
 of soldiers, he makes towards them at a quick pace, and when at 
 a certain distance he instantly springs upon them. The five men, 
 who with their eyes and lances fixed awaited his approach, re- 
 ceive him on the points of their weapons, which they force into 
 his breast, and having with great dexterity thrown him down, 
 they quickly despatch him. I never had an opportunity of wit- 
 nessing such an occurrence, but I was assured that no tiger, thus 
 
78 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE (chap. xiv. 
 
 discovered alone, had ever escaped ; and that no soldier had ever 
 been hurt by oue. When, on the contrary, these groups have 
 been attacked by more than one tiger, some have suffered • and, 
 consequently, whenever more than one is discovered, the sport 
 is immediately abandoned, and the company proceed to another 
 quarter. There are great numbers of these beasts in that coun- 
 try, and the Tartars often hunt them in the manner described ; 
 and afterwards sell the skins in Peking, at about a tahel each, a 
 Chinese coin equivalent to a crown. 
 
 As I have here spoken of stag and tiger hunting, I cannot 
 leave the subject without noticing an extraordinary circumstance. 
 The stag, being endowed with a sense of smell as exquisite as 
 that of the dog, perceives the tiger by its strong scent, and in- 
 stantly flies behind some hill, which, intercepting the current of 
 wind, prevents his own scent from reaching the ravenous beast. 
 Father Parrenin told me that, a few years before, as the hunting 
 circle advanced, they had come to a slope sheltered from the 
 wind, which was covered by such an immense multitude of stags 
 as to appear of the colour of their skins. These stags were so ter- 
 rified by the dreaded beast, that upon the approach of the men 
 and horses they did not attempt to escape, but allowed them- 
 selves to be killed like a flock of sheep, rather than save them- 
 selves by flight. So great, was the slaughter, that the Emperor, 
 supposing that all the stags of the surrounding country had 
 assembled upon that spot, commanded the circle to be opened, 
 lest the race might be entirely destroyed. 
 
 The Emperor took part in another species of sport, unknown 
 in Europe and less fatiguing. He set out by night with all the 
 great company above mentioned, and when within two miles of 
 the spot selected for the sport he left the army, and ascended to 
 the top of a hill with six or seven hunters, clothed in stag-skins 
 from head to foot. Here one of the hunters put on a kind of 
 mask resembling a stag's head with horns, and concealed him- 
 self among the bushes in such a manner that at first sight he 
 might be taken for a stag, while the Emperor and the others 
 crouched down close by — all being armed with good guns, to the 
 ends of which were fixed small pieces of stag's horn. The stags 
 are followed by several does, which they will not allow any other 
 stag to approach. Early in the morning they instinctively raise 
 a cry of challenge; the other stags arrive, and a fight ensues, 
 
chap, xiv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 79 
 
 which continues till one is slain, when the victor takes possession 
 of his rival's herd of does. One of the hunters now blows an 
 instrument which, both in shape and sound, very much resembles 
 those with which our herdsmen call the swine, and which closely 
 imitates the belling of the stag. At this sound the stags hasten 
 to the hill, and seeking their supposed rival they come within 
 gun-shot, and meet with their death. The Emperor had the first 
 shot, and if he missed, the stag was quickly killed by the hunts- 
 men. It happened one day that at the sound of the horn not 
 one stag only but two appeared at the same time within shot, 
 and began to fight. One of them was soon hit by the Emperor, 
 and the other, instead of running away, strove to finish his 
 dying rival, thus giving his Majesty the opportunity of killing 
 him also with the second shot. The sport lasts only about two 
 hours, as later in the day it would have no effect ; and every 
 morning from five to ten stags were thus killed. 
 
 This was the sport in which the Emperor Kang-hy indulged 
 every year in the months of September and October, changing 
 the place nearly every time, in order to find a greater quantity 
 of game. If it happened during this period that his Majesty 
 was deprived of his diversion, either by his superstitious prostra- 
 tions to the new moon or any other impediment, he was not idle 
 on that account. He then came out of his pavilions, and, sitting 
 upon a carpet on some elevated situation, he either watched the 
 dexterous efforts of his Tartar wrestlers, or commanded some of 
 his grandchildren, and other great military mandarins, to prac- 
 tise archery before him ; and sometimes he would even enter the 
 lists against his third son, who managed the bow nearly as well 
 as himself. Although our party amounted to about thirty thou- 
 sand persons — a number which, under all circumstances, must 
 produce great noise and confusion — yet when the Emperor was 
 encamped, and the sun had set, the silence enforced was perfectly 
 astonishing. One day Pedrini and myself having returned to 
 the encampment after sunset, my friend ordered a servant to call 
 our conductor, to whom he wanted to speak. The poor fellow 
 resisted for some time, but being pressed by his master he at last 
 obeyed ; and scarcely had he opened his mouth before he was 
 seized by the soldiers of the guard, and very severely basti- 
 nadoed. 
 
FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xv. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Chinese Letters — Imperial Condescension — The Christians in Danger — Con- 
 versions^ — Strict Discipline— The Crown Prince deposed — The Emperor's 
 Sixtieth Birth-day. 
 
 During our stay at Chan-choon-yuen I presented to his Ma- 
 jesty some prints of a Chinese landscape, drawn by one of the 
 imperial painters, which I had executed with the graver. The 
 Emperor was highly pleased with them, and ordered me to en- 
 grave some letters of the Chinese alphabet in the same manner. 
 Considering that there is scarcely any Chinese writing which 
 does not contain some superstitious expression which we Christians 
 can neither engrave nor print, I did two letters of the Chinese 
 alphabet and two of ours, the latter with every possible care, the 
 others as badly as I could ; and when I submitted them to his 
 Majesty I observed that the European letters were well executed 
 because I could write them, but that the Chinese were bad be- 
 cause, being unable to write thein, I could not engrave them. 
 My excuse was kindly received, and thus, by the grace of God, I 
 avoided the danger of contributing to the propagation of error. 
 
 About this time the Emperor gave to Fathers Cardoso, Tilisch, 
 Pedrini, and myself, four superb why-ttaos of choice silk, lined 
 with ermine, and worth at least twenty pounds each. With the 
 exception of another garment intended to preserve me from the 
 rain, this was the only thing I received from the monarch during 
 the thirteen long years that I toiled for him. Several of the old 
 missionaries who had spent their lives in his service told me 
 that he had never made them any present at all. His Majesty 
 imagined that he obliged us Europeans exceedingly by allowing 
 us to have the honour of working for him, as he clearly intimated 
 to us several times. 
 
 A few days after, the Emperor set out for Tartary, but without 
 taking any Europeans with him, which gave us no small appre- 
 hension. On endeavouring to discover the cause of this novelty, 
 
chap, xv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING, 81 
 
 we found that a high law officer had presented to the Board of 
 Rites a very elaborate libel against our holy religion, and that 
 his Majesty had left us all behind lest we might trouble him 
 with memorials and petitions. Having found this out, the mis- 
 sionaries in Peking, who derived no other advantage from their 
 labours than the good graces of the Emperor and the courtiers, 
 now employed all their interest in the defence of our faith. In 
 consequence of their exertions, the Board of Rites was led to 
 declare that the Europeans had fixed their residence in China 
 with his Majesty's positive permission ; that they had rendered 
 themselves useful to the empire in the formation of the calendar, 
 the manufacture of arms, the war against the Muscovites, and in 
 numerous other ways ; and that, as they had never offended 
 against any one, it would not be right to forbid them the use of 
 their own religion on the mere assertion that it was false ; con- 
 cluding, that those who were furnished with the imperial Piao 
 should not be molested, and that those who had none might be 
 banished to Macao. This declaration was immediately sent to 
 the Emperor, who with his own hand wrote at the bottom of it, 
 " I approve." When he returned from Tartary we all repaired 
 to the palace to thank him by word of mouth and in writing, 
 besides the usual nine ko-tows, or prostrations. 
 
 In the meantime I continued to improve hi the art of engrav- 
 ing ; and when his Majesty saw some copies of the last print I 
 had produced, he said they were " pan-pei," which means a 
 treasure. On this occasion he commanded me to engrave the 
 forty views of Je-hol which he had ordered his painters to take, 
 intending to get them bound in volumes with some poetical 
 compositions, and then make presents of them to the King and 
 Princes of Tartary. He also inquired whether I would take two 
 Chinese pupils on the condition that they should not teach my 
 art to any one else. On my answering that I wished nothing so 
 well as to please his Majesty, he immediately sent to Peking for 
 two young men, whom I instructed with tolerable success, to- 
 gether with some others who came afterwards. Ever since the 
 day of my arrival at Je-hol I had been frequently visited by a 
 youth of good family, whom I had done everything in my power 
 to convert. With the excessive civility of a Chinese, he always 
 affected to be convinced by my arguments, but the moment he 
 
 a 
 
82 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xv. 
 
 joined his friends he turned my efforts into ridicule, laughing 
 with them heartily. I was informed of this, but nevertheless I 
 did not cease to instil the word of God into his heart. One day 
 he came to see me at the moment I was instructing two Chinese 
 who had pressed me to teach them the dogmas of our faith, and 
 he begged me to allow him to listen. To confess the truth, I 
 was not much pleased with his presence, fearing that he might 
 divert the others from the resolution they had formed of em- 
 bracing the Christian faith ; but not to offend him, 1 granted his 
 request. I spoke for about three-quarters of an hour, proving 
 the existence of God and the falsehood of idols ; then by degrees 
 explaining the principal mysteries of Christianity. After this 
 they all earnestly entreated me to baptize them, which I did with 
 infinite satisfaction, after having tried the firmness of their de- 
 termination for some time. 
 
 The Emperor having decided to return from Je-hol to Peking, 
 ordered us to precede him by four or five miles, so that we might 
 avoid the confusion inseparable from the march of an army, with 
 the thousands of waggons, mules, camels, and horses that trans- 
 ported the imperial baggage. The camels alone amounted to 
 more than six hundred. With respect to these animals I may 
 here remark that they are brought from Tartary, which abounds 
 in them as well as in horses. I was however assured by those 
 Europeans who had surveyed the whole of Chinese Tartary, 
 when executing a map of that country, that they had never seen 
 an ass or a mule there 
 
 In the place at which we halted to sleep, we found houses 
 constructed for the service of the Emperor ; but before entering 
 them his Majesty superstitiously commanded the lamas to bless 
 them, and drive away the evil spirits. Every one expected to 
 pass the great wall that evening, and stop at another place some 
 miles farther, and accordingly many of the mandarins in attend- 
 ance had passed the great barrier of the country, and erected 
 pavilions where they supposed the Emperor would halt ; but an 
 order was soon issued that they should all return, and that, as 
 they passed the gate of the great wall, the guards should write 
 down their names, and immediately send a list to his Majesty. 
 This was punctually executed, and many of the party were se- 
 verely punished. Two of the mandarins, who were appointed to 
 
chap, xv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 83 
 
 take care of the Europeans, alleged that they had gone forward 
 to recall the persons they had in charge, and the excuse was ad- 
 mitted. Another disguised himself in the dress of my servant, 
 and not being discovered he escaped castigation. As the guards 
 at the gate allowed no baggage to return, many were obliged to 
 sleep on the bare ground, and others in the open air, at a time 
 when in the morning the water and even the ground was frozen. 
 
 When we arrived at Chan-choon-yuen, the imperial residence 
 near Peking, to our great terror we saw in the garden of that 
 great palace eight or ten mandarins, and two eunuchs upon their 
 knees, bare-headed, and with their hands tied behind them. At a 
 small distance from them the sons of the Emperor were standing 
 in a row, also with their heads bare, and their hands bound upon 
 their breasts. Shortly after, the Emperor came out of his aj>art- 
 ments in an open sedan, and proceeded to the place where the 
 princes were undergoing punishment. On reaching the spot he 
 broke out with the fury of a tiger, loading the heir-apparent with 
 reproaches, and confined him to his own palace, together with his 
 family and court. In a public manifesto he subsequently deposed 
 the unfortunate prince as suspected of treason ; and to prove to 
 the nation his incapability of reigning, amongst other things he 
 accused him of being addicted to an atrocious offence, which the 
 laws of China, though promulgated by heathens, hold in the 
 greatest abomination. 
 
 The Emperor could not remain long in the same place, and thus 
 after a few days he left Chan-choon-yuen for Pa-chao, another 
 mansion of enormous dimensions, with a park so abounding with 
 stags, that they appear like flocks of sheep. Here it was that, in 
 ancient times, the sovereigns of China enjoyed the pleasures of a 
 country life ; but the Emperor Kang-hy, after erecting the pa- 
 lace of Chan-choon-yuen, only repaired to Pa-chao once a year, 
 to hunt the stag and other animals. After the chase, he re- 
 turned to Peking to celebrate the solemn festival of the sixtieth 
 year of his age ; a period which in China is equivalent to our 
 century. 
 
 On the fourth day of April, 1713, the chief mandarins from 
 all parts of the empire arrived at Peking to assist at the celebra- 
 tion, and (ake part in the splendid rejoicings which were made 
 upon this occasion. Every one offered to the sovereign gifts of 
 
 g2 
 
84 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xv. 
 
 the rarest description, according to his rank and power. We 
 Europeans, each contributing his share, made his Majesty a pre- 
 sent consisting of European wine, Brazilian tobacco, which is 
 the most esteemed in China, one pound of gum storax, a piece of 
 the finest linen, two painted quilts from Coromandel, several 
 white pocket handkerchiefs of the finest description trimmed 
 with lace, four embroidered purses, various kinds of scissors, 
 knives, and small padlocks, three pounds of tartar, a mathema- 
 tical instrument, two pots of balsam, six bottles of confectionary, 
 with twelve jars of preserved quinces, eight stones of gaspar an- 
 tonic, saffron, bark, oils, and medicinal roots. 
 
 On arriving at the palace, we showed our offering to the man- 
 darins, but they would not receive it until we first took away 
 the medicinal articles, and reduced the whole to even numbers, 
 declaring that on such a day it was an evil omen to offer to his 
 Majesty an odd number, or articles of medicine. Having carried 
 back our gift, we discussed among ourselves whether it would 
 not be better to offer nothing at all than to subtract the medical 
 articles, and reduce the whole to even numbers; but the 
 opinion of the majority was, that in order to avoid giving 
 offence, it was expedient to make the present. Upon this I 
 withdrew, leaving the others to do what they liked, and they 
 took away the medical articles and made the numbers even. We 
 afterwards returned to the palace, where, kneeling as usual before 
 the mandarins, and wishing his Majesty every happiness, we de- 
 clared that we felt ashamed to present such trifles. The Em- 
 peror returned in answer that he felt much pleasure in receiving 
 the expression of our good wishes, and out of all the above- 
 named articles, he made choice of thirteen, which was considered 
 as a great favour. From each of the mandarins lie only accepted 
 one or two things, refusing all the rest. His Majesty after- 
 wards conferred a particular honour on me, by sending me a box 
 of European colours, which had been presented to him by one of 
 his courtiers. On this occasion the whole city of Peking wore 
 an appearance of festivity. All were habited in gala dresses, 
 banquets were given without end, fireworks discharged, and 
 eveiy kind of rejoicing carried on as at the new year. But that 
 which above all things struck me with astonishment, was the 
 spectacle exhibited upon the royal road from Chan-choon-yuen 
 
chap, xv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 85 
 
 to Peking, which is about three miles in length. This road was 
 adorned on both sides with an artificial wall composed of mats, 
 and entirely covered with silks of the most beautiful workman- 
 ship, while at certain distances were erected fanciful houses, 
 temples, altars, triumphal arches, and theatres, in which musical 
 dnun*a were represented. So great was the abundance of silk 
 that we Europeans all agreed in thinking that no kingdom in 
 Europe possessed so much. Public prayers were also delivered 
 by the mandarins in the numerous temples of the capital, for the 
 safety of the Emperor and the continuation of his line ; and at 
 the same time various prostrations and sacrifices were made be- 
 fore a picture representing the monarch. 
 
 It is a universal custom in China, that during such solemni- 
 ties no one should pass ou horseback before any temple, but 
 that all should alight, and proceed on foot. Being ignorant of 
 this practice, I one day nearly transgressed it, when on a sudden 
 I was surrounded by soldiers, with whips in their hands, who 
 called out loudly " Down, down !" I immediately understood what 
 this meant ; but as I would not take any part in their supersti- 
 tious ceremonies, I turned back my horse and galloped away, to 
 the great amusement of the gazing crowd. Fortunately for me 
 every one could see by my beard that I was a European ; for if 
 I had been a Chinese, without giving me the least intimation to 
 dismount, the guards would have subjected me at once to the 
 severe discipline of their whips. 
 
 
86 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xyi. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Public Rejoicings — Provincial Deputations — Strawberries and Asparagus — 
 The First Pupil — Regard of the Chinese for their Beards — Russian 
 Priests. 
 
 On the 1 1 th of the same month the Emperor went in state from 
 Chan-choon-yuen to his palace in Peking, allowing every one 
 to see him. On ordinary occasions his Majesty is always pre- 
 ceded by a great number of horsemen, who clear the streets 
 entirely, causing all the houses and shops to be shut, and a 
 canvas to be drawn before every opening, so that no one 
 might see him. The same precautions are taken when the Em- 
 peror's ladies, or those of his sons, are about to pass. His Ma- 
 jesty generally comes forth on horseback, and the ladies are 
 always conveyed in close carriages. Upon this celebration of 
 the sixtieth anniversary of the Emperor's birth, the openings 
 were not stopped nor the doors shut, nor were the people driven 
 away. The streets and roads were now crowded with countless 
 multitudes desirous of beholding their sovereign. He rode on 
 horseback, wearing a robe covered with dragons, magnificently 
 embroidered in gold, and having five claws, the five-clawed 
 dragon being exclusively worn by the imperial family. lie 
 was preceded by about two thousand horse-soldiers, in splendid 
 array, and immediately followed by the princes of the blood, who 
 were succeeded by a great number of mandarins. After these 
 came a large body of soldiers, marching in a promiscuous mass, 
 'without observing any order. We Europeans were disposed in 
 a rank near a bridge at no great distance from the palace, where 
 we awaited the arrival of his Majesty upon our knees. On 
 passing by, he paid particular attention to each of us, and smi- 
 lingly inquired which were those employed in drawing the 
 map. 
 
 A vast number of aged but healthy men had been sent to 
 
chap. xvi.J AT THE COUKT OF PEKING. 87 
 
 Peking from all the provinces. They were in companies, bear- 
 ing the banner of their respective provinces. They also carried 
 various other symbols and trophies, and being symmetrically 
 drawn up along the streets through which the Emperor was to 
 pass, they presented a very beautiful and uncommon appearance. 
 Every one of these old men brought a present of some kind to 
 the Emperor, which generally consisted of vases and other 
 articles in bronze. His Majesty gave to each of them twelve 
 silver tahel. a coin worth about five shillings, together with a 
 gown of yellow silk, which is the imperial colour. They after- 
 wards assembled all together in a place where the Emperor went 
 to see them; and it was found that this venerable company 
 amounted to four thousand in number. His Majesty was highly 
 gratified with this spectacle ; he inquired the age of many, and 
 treated them all with the greatest affability and condescension. 
 He even invited them all to a banquet, at which he made them 
 sit in his presence, and commanded his sons and grandsons to 
 serve them with drink. After this, with his own hand, he pre- 
 sented every one of them with something; to one who was the 
 most aged of the whole assembly, being nearly a hundred and 
 eleven years old, he gave a mandarin's suit complete, together 
 with a staff, an inkstand, and other things. 
 
 Many compositions in verse and prose were produced on this 
 auspicious occasion, and some of our missionaries humbly peti- 
 tioned his Majesty for a copy of the collection to send to Europe, 
 which he granted, commanding Father Bovet to translate them. 
 In these poems divine titles and honours were given to Kang-hy, 
 who was indeed held in such veneration throughout China, that 
 he often received the appellation of Fj, a national deity uni- 
 versally adored, both by Tartars and Chinese. I myself very 
 frequently heard him designated as the living Fo. 
 
 Don Pedrini had constructed a small organ, which being 
 moved by clock-work played a tune whenever a spring was 
 touched. He carried it to the palace, and requested the man- 
 darin Chao to present it to the Emperor. But this courtier, 
 perceiving that Pedrini was becoming a favourite, declined to 
 receive it, and presented another self-acting instrument of the 
 same description. Not long after Chao fell ill, and Pedrini, 
 taking advantage of the opportunity, carried his organ to the 
 
88 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xvi. 
 
 palace. The other mandarins, deeming it their duty to please 
 the sovereign rather than Chao, presented it to his Majesty, who 
 accepted it kindly, expressing himself highly delighted at the 
 invention. 
 
 As the Emperor could not bear to remain long in the same 
 place, after returning from Peking to Chan-choon-yuen, on the 
 2nd of June he departed for Je-hol with his usual retinue. 
 Throughout the journey old men and women were seen standing 
 in ranks near their dwellings, with flowers in their hands, wait- 
 ing till his Majesty arrived, to wish him a long and happy life. 
 At other times no one was permitted to see the Emperor pass ; 
 but this year being the completion of a Chinese century of his 
 age, this favour was granted, but only to old people. 
 
 On arriving at Je-hol, we Europeans were requested by order 
 of his Majesty to explain what was the use of strawberries, and 
 how they were eaten in Europe. During all my journeyings in 
 China I had never seen any strawberries, and I had only re- 
 marked a few of these plants among the mountains of Tartary. 
 I was however informed that they might be found also in some 
 wild parts of China, but that no care was taken to cultivate them. 
 Yet the Emperor, having understood that we Mere fond of them, 
 caused them to be planted in his gardens, and even bestowed 
 much care upon their cultivation. I observed also that hops 
 and asparagus grew in Tartary ; but both the Chinese and the 
 Tartars laughed on hearing me say that these plants were highly 
 esteemed in Europe. 
 
 When I had finished engraving the views of the imperial 
 mansion of Je-hol, I presented the prints to his Majesty, who was 
 greatly pleased with them, and commanded that a large quantity 
 should be taken off for his sons, grandsons, and other princes. 
 Being well satisfied with the manner in which I had bound these 
 thirty-six views of Je-hol in one volume, he ordered me to 
 engrave and arrange together in the same mariner the great map 
 of the empire, which I afterwards executed in forty-four plates, 
 as may be seen in the hall of our college. 
 
 Upon the return of the Emperor to Je-hol, I baptized a youth 
 of the age of thirteen, whose parents were Christians. As I had 
 remarked, from my first acquaintance with him, that he possessed 
 certain excellent qualities suitable to the priestly office, I under- 
 
chap, xvi.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 89 
 
 took to instruct him in all that is necessary for a Christian mis- 
 sionary. He was the first youth that I took with me for this 
 purpose ; and he afterwards followed me to Naples, where he 
 became the senior student in this institution at which I am now 
 writing. . 
 
 In November, 1715, I was summoned into the presence of the 
 Emperor, to act as interpreter to two Europeans, a painter and 
 a chemist, who had just arrived. While we were awaiting his 
 Majesty's pleasure in one of the anterooms, a eunuch addressed 
 my companions iu Chinese, and was angry because they returned 
 no answer I immediately told him the cause of their silence, 
 upon which he said, that we Europeans were all so alike that it 
 was scarcely possible to distinguish one from another. I had 
 often heard the same remark from other persons, our resemblance 
 being generally attributed to the long beards we all wore. The 
 Chinese do not shave ; but their beards are so thin that the hairs 
 might be counted : the few they have, however, they value even 
 to ridicule. Father Perreyra having once perceived a white 
 hair on the face of a mandarin, with whom he was familiarly 
 acquainted, hastened to pluck it out, supposing that he did him 
 a service. The mandarin, on the contrary, was both vexed and 
 grieved at the loss ; and picking up the hair, he wrapped it care- 
 fully in a piece of paper, and took it home. The Emperor 
 himself was not exempt from this weakness. He once com- 
 manded Father Rod, who acted as his surgeon, to cure him of a 
 boil that had formed upon his face. Father Rod prescribed a 
 plaster, saying that, in order to apply it properly, it would be 
 necessary to cut off a few hairs from his Majesty's beard ; and the 
 Emperor, after a long consultation with his looking-glass, ordered 
 the most dexterous of his eunuchs to cut them. Immediately 
 after the operation he looked at himself again, and, with marks 
 of deep grief, he bitterly reproved the eunuch for having so 
 grossly blundered as to cut off four hairs when three would have 
 been quite enough. 
 
 There were in Peking an abbot and twelve priests, who had 
 been sent by Peter the Great to administer spiritual comfort to 
 the families of the Russian prisoners of war. As strange things 
 were reported concerning these ecclesiastics, I resolved to make 
 their personal acquaintance, with a view of sending an exact 
 
90 FATHER KIPA'S 'RESIDENCE [cuap.xvi. 
 
 account of them to the Propaganda. According to the custom 
 of the country in which we were, I first sent a present to the 
 abbot, then waited upon him myself. I found him courteous 
 and dignified in his manners, and remarkably neat in his dress and 
 furniture. Whenever he came out of his church he held a cru- 
 cifix on his breast, and the pastoral in his hand. He was a schis- 
 matic, but with me he pretended to be a Catholic. He spoke 
 just enough Latin to make himself understood ; and as he told 
 me that one of his priests, who was ill, could also speak this 
 language, I went to see him, but all I could get out of the man 
 was — intelligit, intelligit. The abbot told me that all the Chris- 
 tians of his sect in Peking scarcely amounted to fifty, and were 
 descendants of prisoners of war, one of whom still lived, though 
 far advanced in years. I asked him whether it was true that he 
 had baptized a great number, of Chinese. To this he replied 
 that his christenings had been limited to the families of the 
 Russian prisoners ; that he did not attend to the Chinese because 
 he was ignorant of their language, and the abandoned state of 
 his own congregation required all his attention. Their church, 
 which, like the temples of the Chinese idolaters, they call Miao, 
 had upon its front a cross like ours, but with two transversal 
 bars besides. They call God Fo, which is the appellation of an 
 idol, and their clergy Lamas, like the priests of Fo. They offi- 
 ciate in their church without any ceremony, admitting men and 
 women at the same time, which in China is considered nothing 
 less than an abomination The men remain uncovered as we do 
 in Europe; but our Christians in China, including the officiating 
 priest, keep covered the whole time, the Chinese considering 
 this as a mark of respect. Although the abbot was so elegant in 
 his dress, the priests under him had a mean and shabby appear- 
 ance ; and I even saw some of them at play in the public streets 
 before the church ; which in China is absolutely indecorous, and 
 not to be done by any person of the least respectability. 
 
chap, xvn.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 91 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Dread of the Plague— Death of Father Tilisch — Alarm among the Christians 
 — Firmness of the Emperor — His Avarice — Origin of the Chinese Col- 
 lege. 
 
 In the summer of 1716 there was a great deal of illness at Je- 
 hol, and the Emperor became apprehensive that it might be the 
 plague. He therefore ordered all the physicians at his court to 
 visit the sick singly, and to draw up a separate report of each 
 case, pointing out the remedies required. All the Europeans at 
 Je-hol, as well as twc lamas who had the reputation of being 
 well acquainted with the medical science, received the same 
 command from his Majest . We all went our rounds ; but we 
 Europeans, not being physicians, refused to prescribe remedies. 
 The mandarins, however, insisted on our conforming to the im- 
 perial will ; and when my turn came, after vainly protesting my 
 ignorance of medicine, I allowed the words to escape me that I 
 knew what to prescribe for those suffering from costiveness. 
 Upon this, they pressed me eagerly to name the remedy ; and I 
 told them of a mechanical one, which, on being explained to the 
 Emperor, amused his imperial Majesty amazingly. What rather 
 astonished me on this occasion was to hear the two lamas talk, 
 with clearness and propriety, about the circulation of the blood, 
 and the animalcules engendered when it is impaired. 
 
 On the 8th of September of this year 1 suffered a heavy loss in 
 the death of Father Tilisch, with whom I had made the journey 
 from Canton to Peking,, and had lived ever since in the houses 
 that the Emperor gave us at Chan-choon-yuen and Je-hol. He 
 died of a tedious and loathsome disease, through whicli I nursed 
 him with unwearied devotion ; and the Emperor, who had a 
 great regard for him, was exceedingly pleased at what I did for 
 him. My lamented friend was. buried in the cemetery of the 
 Portuguese missionaries at Peking, whither it was my lot to 
 
92 FATHER RTPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xvii. 
 
 accompany him. It being strictly forbidden to carry the dead 
 through the gate used by the sovereign, we went by another 
 road. I then saw another part of Tartary and of the great wall, 
 travelling along defiles continually hemmed in by lofty and pre- 
 cipitous mountains. 
 
 At this period, Ching-mow, a military mandarin who resided 
 at Kie-she, not far from Canton, sent a libel to the Emperor, in 
 which he attempted to show that the foreign trade and the pro- 
 pagation of the Christian religion were highly detrimental to the 
 empire. His Majesty handed it over to the Ping-poo, or Mili- 
 tary Board, in order that, after giving due consideration to the 
 charge, it might come to a proper decision regarding it. The 
 Ping-poo answered that the matter, being of paramount im- 
 portance, should be referred to the Kieu-king, or Supreme Board. 
 The recommendation was followed, and the Kieu-king resolved 
 that Canton should be closed against foreigners, our holy religion 
 prohibited, all the Christians imprisoned, and their churches de- 
 molished. 
 
 On hearing this, the Europeans in Peking deputed three mis- 
 sionaries to plead their cause with the Emperor. These deputies 
 waited upon his Majesty with a petition, wherein they dexterously 
 reminded him of the existing laws in favour of the Christian re- 
 ligion ; but, contrary to the general custom, they could obtain 
 no answer. This made us apprehend that a severe persecution 
 was preparing against us, and for some time we were in a 
 state of extreme anxiety. Not long after, however, the viceroy 
 of Canton, obeying, as it was supposed, a secret order of the 
 Emperor, sent a report to the Ping-poo, in which he stated that 
 the commerce of Canton could not endanger the safety of the 
 empire, and should not be stopped, but that our religion should 
 be suppressed. The following day the Emperor decreed that, 
 conformably to the viceroy's report, the commerce of Canton 
 should be re-opened, but that the suppression of the Christian 
 religion should be suspended. 
 
 We then repaired to the palace for the purpose of expressing 
 our gratitude to the Emperor ; but before we had performed the 
 indispensable prostrations, and returned thanks either by word of 
 mouth or in writing, Wey, the first eunuch, came out of the 
 imperial apartments, and addressed us with these words : — " His 
 
chap, xvn.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 93 
 
 Majesty says that you need not thank him, for he has granted 
 you no favour, the decree by which the suppression of your re- 
 ligion is suspended being the same that he issued last year on a 
 similar occasion. His Majesty is invariably true to his word, 
 and never abrogates what he has once decreed." 
 
 Whenever we followed the Emperor from Peking to Je-hol, 
 the expenses of our journey were defrayed by a pah-yen, that is, 
 a custom-house officer, who was commanded to support us out 
 of what he had gained in the exercise of his office. In 1718, 
 however, his Majesty's avarice increasing as he advanced in years, 
 he decreed that in future the pah-yen should pay into the im- 
 perial treasury what they were bound to supply for our main- 
 tenance, towards repairing the palace, the roads, and the bridges, 
 and other similar purposes, amounting altogether to an exor- 
 bitant sum ; and that these several items should be economically 
 defrayed at his expense. In consequence of this new arrange- 
 ment, each of us was now allowed one cart and four mules for 
 the conveyance of his baggage, a tent, a horse, and twelve tahels 
 a-month ; but as we had to keep the horse at our expense, this 
 allowance of about three pounds a-month was insufficient to meet 
 our wants, and we were obliged to make up the remainder as 
 well as we could. 
 
 In the month of June of the subsequent year, while following 
 the Emperor to Je-hol as usual, I met, in the neighbourhood of 
 Low-kwo-tien, several Christians, who had come to ask me to 
 administer the holy sacrament to a woman who was dying in 
 Koo-pa-kew, a place five miles distant, and close to the great 
 wall. Koo-pa-kew contained about two hundred and fifty 
 Christians, who deserved the praise and affection of the mis- 
 sionaries for their fervent attachment to our religion. Accord- 
 ingly I went to confess the dying woman, after which I gave her 
 the sacrament and the extreme unction. Yielding to the pressing 
 entreaties of several persons, I devoted the remainder of the day 
 to receiving their confessions ; and when evening came, as the 
 chapel continued to be full of people who awaited their turn, 
 after taking a slight refreshment I resumed my work, and carried 
 it on throughout the night without once closing my eyes ; but 
 as most of these deserted Christians had not been able to confess 
 for a long time, their confessions were generally so long that I 
 
94 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xvii. 
 
 could not listen to more than seventy-two. In consequence of 
 this, the next morning, immediately after mass, I again betook 
 myself to the confessional with unabated zeal, so that during a 
 stay of three days I confessed one hundred and ninety-nine per- 
 sons, administered the sacrament to one hundred and sixty-seven, 
 and christened fifty-four. 
 
 Among those whom I baptized at Koo-pa-kew was the uncle 
 of the sovereign of Mong-quo-pah, a state situated in the pro- 
 vince of Kwey-chau, but almost independent of the Emperor of 
 China, as is shown by a blank in the map of the empire which I 
 engraved. This neophyte told me that, throughout his nephew's 
 dominions, no idols, images, or deities were worshipped, and that 
 consequently there were no temples nor bonzes, nor any other 
 sort of priests. He asked for a good number of religious books 
 to distribute among his fellow-countrymen, and prayed that a 
 missionary might be sent to teach them the Holy Word. 
 
 The youth I had taken with me in 1714, with a view of bring- 
 ing him up for the church, was a native of Koo-pa-kew. On this 
 occasion I was pressed to receive three other boys from the same 
 place, among whom was the blessed John In, of whom I shall say 
 more hereafter. On arriving at Je-hol with these four boys, I 
 caused a room to be fitted up with five partitions, each having a 
 curtain in front, and in these I put four beds for them, and one 
 for a gentleman whom 1 appointed to instruct them in the lan- 
 guage and knowledge of the Chinese. I then established a di- 
 vision of time for prayers, spiritual conversation, study, and 
 other occupations, so that my infant institution had mere the 
 appearance of a noviciate than of a school, as I called it. I did 
 not call it a college, because at tl is period I had in truth no 
 higher object than that of forming a mere school, which should 
 end with my life in that same country. I well knew how much 
 that vast field lacked labourers, and that Europe could not 
 furnish them, the number of missionaries she had sent thither 
 from 1580 to 1724 scarcely amounting to five hundred. I also 
 knew that, however numerous and zealous the European mis- 
 sionaries might be, they could not produce any satisfactory 
 results, in consequence of the formidable barrier of the language, 
 which up to my time none had been able to surmount so as to 
 make himself understood by the people at large. For these rea- 
 
hap. xvii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 95 
 
 sons, and others which I think it unnecessary to state, I firmly be- 
 lieved that it was indispensable to establish in the church of God 
 a religious community exclusively for the purpose of qualifying 
 the natives for the apostolical ministry. But as I possessed 
 neither the funds nor the convenience, or support required for 
 so great an undertaking, I felt compelled to keep within a 
 humbler sphere. 
 
 My brothers and other European friends, however, having 
 heard of my intention of undertaking the education of young 
 Chinese, meanwhile had sent me a liberal supply of money, 
 which unexpectedly reached me at the very moment when it was 
 wanted. As land in China produces twelve per cent, on the 
 capital invested, and houses even as much as eighteen, the sum I 
 thus received secured me a yearly income more than sufficient 
 to cover my expenses. Nearly at the same time I also received 
 two dispatches from Rome, by which his Holiness conferred on 
 me the office of Apostolical Prothonotary, and the living of San 
 Lorenzo, in Arena, in the diocese of Mileto, implying the pri- 
 vilege of wearing mitre and crosier. Encouraged by these 
 various and distinguished favours of Divine Providence, I now 
 aspired to extend my school, and to devote it exclusively to 
 forming native ecclesiastics; but the malice with which my 
 efforts were opposed both by Asiatics and Europeans, soon con- 
 vinced me that God had disposed otherwise, and that China was 
 not the spot in which my intended institution could prosper. 
 
96 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, xviii. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Chapels for Women- — Chinese Jealousy — Don Pedrini arrested- -Machina- 
 tions against the School — Lucio — John In withdrawn — His Father's 
 Death— His Returu— A Dream. 
 
 On my return to Peking I established a chapel in the house of 
 one of my penitents who lived near the Palace, so that the 
 Christian women of the neighbourhood might perform their reli- 
 gious duties. This scheme having succeeded beyond my expec- 
 tations, I erected another chapel in Peking, and one at Chan- 
 choon-yuen, both for the exclusive service of women, who, owing 
 to the excessive jealousy with which they are kept, could not 
 enter the place of worship destined for men. The Jesuits had a 
 church for women at Peking, but it was only opened once in six 
 months. In other places where two churches could not be pro- 
 cured, the two sexes went to the same, but at different times ; and 
 on the day appointed for the women, it was necessary to place 
 two guards at the door to prevent the intrusion of men. 
 
 To show how jealously the women of China are watched, and 
 how cautions the missionaries ought to be, I will relate what 
 happened to me at Chan-choon-yuen. One day when I was in 
 the above-mentioned chapel, confessing in turn several women 
 who were stationed behind a curtain, I observed a man passing 
 to and fro before the door and watching my actions. When my 
 duty was over, I asked the beadle who the man was, and what 
 he wanted ; and he replied with a smile, that he was a heathen 
 but lately married to a Christian, who had stipulated that she 
 should be allowed the free exercise of her religion. On the pre- 
 ceding day she had told him, that in the morning she would 
 come to Atso-koong-foo, which means " to do the business/' this 
 being the manner in which the Chinese express confession. Not 
 understanding what business his young bride could have to per- 
 form with another man, he had given her permission to come, 
 
chap, xviii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 97 
 
 but had followed her by stealth, in order to watch her pro- 
 ceedings. The beadle having been informed of this, took no 
 notice of him, in order that his mind might be relieved from any- 
 jealous suspicions. After he had watched for some time, finding 
 that I remained seated and immoveable, he approached the 
 beadle, and said he thought we were mad, as we sat doing no- 
 thing while we pretended to have business to transact. The 
 beadle explained the mystery to him, by informing him that the 
 women on the other side of the curtain came one after the other 
 to confess their transgressions, and that, after suitable correction 
 and instructions, if repentant I absolved them, upon which ex- 
 planation he went away apparently satisfied. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 8th of February, 1720, amidst the 
 general rejoicing and feasting of a Chinese new year's day, two 
 bailiffs seized our friend Don Pedrini in his apartment, bound 
 his hands with a handkerchief, and led him away. Father Jartou 
 and myself, anxious to ascertain the cause of his arrest, followed 
 him to the imperial palace, whither he had been taken, and there 
 we found that one of the eunuchs had made him go through the 
 genuflections and prostrations with which it is customary on that 
 day to pay homage to the Emperor. We were informed that he 
 had been arrested because on that morning he had not joined 
 the other Europeans in fulfilling that duty, especially as on the 
 occasion of his Majesty's mother's death he had already been 
 guilty of a similar neglect. The Emperor had only ordered 
 that Don Pedrini should be desired to go and perform the cere- 
 monies above-mentioned, and that, if he declined complying with 
 the command, he should be dragged to the palace in chains, and 
 compelled to obey; but the mandarin Chao, who was our 
 sworn enemy, without waiting to see what Pedrini would do, 
 had overstepped his instructions, and directed that our companion 
 should at once be treated as a malefactor, in order to cast a slur 
 upon us all. 
 
 The day after, mistaking my affliction for terror, the wily 
 Chao took me aside, and under the pretence of anxious benevo- 
 lence, exhorted me with all the power of his eloquence hot to 
 follow Pedrini's example, unless I wished to get into a similar 
 scrape. The drift of all this was an insinuation that I should 
 give up my school, and remain idle in that vast vineyard of the 
 
 H 
 
98 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, xviii. 
 
 Lord ; for he held my endeavours 10 form native ecclesiastics in 
 absolute abhorrence, and was doing all in his power to frustrate 
 them. He was assisted in this unholy work by several other 
 eourtiers, and even by some Europeans, who lived either in 
 dread of his resentment, or under the sway of still baser feelings ; 
 there was no stratagem which this perverse coalition scrupled 
 to employ, if it was but likely to cause the dispersion of my 
 school. One day they forged a letter from the parents of my 
 pupils, saying, that as the soldiers I had confessed at Koo-pa- 
 kew had refused to take part in the funeral rites of a deceased 
 mandarin, they requested me to send their sons home. Another 
 time they sent letters to the same Christians of Koo-pa-kew 
 purporting that I kept their boys with me for abominable pur- 
 poses, and that unless they were instantly withdrawn they would 
 certainly incur some fearful punishment. Upon other occasions 
 they tried to daunt my resolution by spreading all sorts of ca- 
 lumnious reports against rny character, and hinting in various 
 ways that the Emperor was on the eve of giving me some fearful 
 mark of his displeasure. 
 
 Notwithstanding these vexatious proceedings, my pupils, their 
 parents, and myself, were immoveable in our determination ; 
 but wishing to irritate my enemies as little as possible, 1 resolved 
 to take no more pupils than I already had. Accordingly I 
 wrote to stop a certain Lucio U, who was to join us from the 
 province of Nanking ; but my letter crossed him on the oad, 
 and when he reached my school after forty days' journey, I did 
 not like to refuse him admission : happy would it have been for 
 me had he never entered my doors, for he turned out to be the 
 greatest affliction of my long and agitated life, as the reader 
 will see. 
 
 Meanwhile the Emperor's birthday came, and we had to offer 
 presents to his Majesty as usual. Don Pedrini presented a 
 number of European curiosities, and the Emperor accepted 
 twenty-four sheets of paper, thus showing that the Father was not 
 quite out of favour. I offered my gift with considerable appre- 
 hension, not only because I was Fedrini companion, but also 
 because I had nothing in my possession that was worth offering ; 
 it consisted of four pounds of European colours, a pound of 
 tartar, six ounces of treacle, and a few fumigating pastiles. 
 
chap, xviii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 99 
 
 Although these articles were of no value, his Majesty did me the 
 honour of accepting them all. A lew days after we met the 
 Emperor in the garden of the Palace, and his Majesty asked 
 Pedrini his age, thus showing that he began to receive him again 
 into favour. 
 
 Perceiving after this that the name of the Emperor could no 
 longer be used as a means of intimidation, the persecutors of my 
 school now betook themselves to the expedient of sending to the 
 Bishop of Peking a remonstrance, which was a tissue of most 
 abominable inventions against my character. They stated, 
 among other things, that it was highly discreditable to the 
 Chinese mission that one of its members should travel about in 
 the suite of the Emperor, with a carriage full of boys, just as 
 some of the chief courtiers were doing, to the great scandal of 
 the nation ; and that in my case this was the more blameable, 
 because at Je-hol I lodged in the house of the Emperor's uncle, 
 whose son was Governor of the Nine Gates, and Censor of Mo- 
 rals. Unwilling to give offence to my powerful accusers, the 
 bishop answered their communications in terms which appeared 
 to imply that he disapproved of my conduct, and at the same time 
 he advised me to dismiss three of my pupils, and to keep the 
 other two as servants, teaching them nothing more than the 
 Chinese characters. Hereupon I wrote a minute justification of 
 all my proceedings, refuting each imputation by the assertion of 
 facts which were calculated to make my enemies tremble for 
 their own safety. The bishop instantly forwarded this to them, 
 and they were so ashamed and alarmed that they gave me no 
 farther annoyance through this channel. 
 
 At last, however, they succeeded in inducing John In's father 
 to withdraw him from my care. On mv passage through Koo- 
 pa-kew, in the summer of 1720, this deluded man pretended to 
 be ill, and pressed me to leave his son with him. I told him, in 
 the presence of several other Christians, that, if his illness was a 
 mere pretence, he did very wrong in thus reclaiming what he 
 had offered up to God ; to which, unfortunately for him, he 
 answered that, if what he alleged were not true, he knew 
 it would be an attempt to deceive the Almighty, and not 
 me. On hearing this, I gave the boy my blessing, together with 
 several presents, and we parted. The next morning he came 
 
 h2 
 
100 FATHER RJPA*S RESIDENCE [chap, xtjii. 
 
 with his eldest brother to see me once more before my departure. 
 I then asked him whether his father was really ill, as he had 
 affirmed on the previous evening, and he replied, that on their 
 arriving home, his father himself had told him that he was quite 
 well, but had pleaded illness only as an excuse for taking him 
 away from my school, as he had been assured that the Emperor 
 was on the point of putting us all to death on account of our 
 supposed malpractices. 
 
 The poor boy had passed the whole night in tears : his eyes 
 were swollen ; his countenance pale and emaciated. He threw 
 himself at my feet, and tried to confess, but his constant sobs 
 scarcely allowed him to articulate a word. After confession he 
 spontaneously vowed to return to my school, and enter the church, 
 as soon as the Lord should grant him an opportunity of so doing. 
 I then exhorted him to patience, constancy, and confidence in 
 God, and again blessed him ; but as he continued to lament, 
 saying that in those mountains of Koo-pa-kew he had no one to 
 guide him in the path of salvation, I took from my neck the 
 crucifix which had been my guide and comfort in all my travels, 
 and gave it to him with the assurance that if he consulted His 
 Divine Majesty he would receive far better spiritual lessons than 
 from iny poor self. Unable any longer to restrain my feelings, 
 I hurriedly mounted my horse, and resumed my journey, over- 
 whelmed with grief at this heart-rending separation. 
 
 Soon after my departure, while this youth was at his devo- 
 tions, a friend suddenly came and informed him that his father 
 was dying. He instantly rushed to his father's bed-side, but 
 only arrived in time to see him expire. His father had been 
 seized with an apoplectic fit, and calling for a physician instead 
 of a confessor, he died without receiving the holy sacrament. 
 This awful visitation made a great impression on the Christians 
 of Koo-pa-kew, who viewed it as a punishment inflicted by the 
 Almighty on the deceased for his impious behaviour. His fa- 
 ther's funeral was no sooner over than John In wanted to join 
 us again ; but, notwithstanding his urgent prayers and entrea- 
 ties, his mother would never allow him to do so. Taking ad- 
 vantage of her parental authority, she had even prepared chains 
 and stocks wherewith to punish him had lie attempted to escape, 
 rinding himself thus debarred from the life that he so ardently 
 
chap, xvm.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 101 
 
 desired, he shut himself up in his room, where he spent his days 
 and nights in tears, taking scarce any food. At the end of a 
 month he was so thin and exhausted, that his mother, perceiving 
 no other means of saving his life, at last allowed him to depart. 
 The day of his unexpected return was one of rejoicing to us all. 
 Pale and sad as he had latterly been, he now suddenly recovered, 
 as if by miracle, his natural complexion and buoyancy of spirits, 
 so that his brother burst into a flood of tears at this unexpected 
 consolation. 
 
 There is a singular circumstance connected with this incident, 
 which I will relate for the edification of my readers. On the 
 morning of the 28th of the preceding month of March, my 
 assistant informed me that he had heard John In weeping during 
 the night, but had been unable to elicit from him the cause of 
 his grief : hereupon I sent for the youth, and pressed him to say 
 what ailed him. He then told me that he had been greatly dis- 
 tressed in his sleep by a dream which still continued to harass 
 his mind with all the force of reality. In this dream, which he 
 related to me, he had anticipated his withdrawal from school, 
 the death of his father, the obduracy of his mother, his solitude 
 and subsequent illness, and his eventual return to us ; all of 
 which was afterwards realised with a minuteness and accuracy 
 of detail perfectly astonishing. 
 
 I have dwelt thus much on the obstacles against which I had 
 to contend during the infancy of my institution, in order that 
 others may take example, and never expect praise or assistance 
 from man in the works which they undertake for the service of 
 God, as, sooner or later, they will be amply rewarded by Him. 
 All these storms raised by Satan against my frail little bark, on 
 its first setting sail, were a favourable omen ; for the great 
 enemy of mankind would not have opposed its progress with so 
 much malice if he had not dreaded the good results which it was 
 destined to produce. 
 
102 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xix. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Arrival of the Russian Embassy — Point of Etiquette — Imperial Manifesto — 
 Mutual Concessions. 
 
 On the 29th of November of the same year, 1720, Count Is- 
 mailof, who was sent on an embassy to his Celestial Majesty by 
 the Czar, Peter the Great, marie his public entry into Peking 
 with a retinue of ninety persons, and the sound of trumpets, 
 drums, and other military instruments. He was on horseback, 
 and had a man of gigantic height on one side of him, and a 
 dwarf on the other, botli on foot. His retinue partly preceded 
 and partly followed him ; some on horseback, and others on 
 foot ; alj with drawn swords, and in splendid array. Count 
 Ismailof had a fine person and a noble expression of counte- 
 nance : he spoke German, French, and Italian, and had some 
 slight knowledge of Latin. 
 
 To conduct the negotiations with this ambassador the Em- 
 peror appointed a commission, consisting of a mandarin and two 
 courtiers, all personages of great authority ; and deputed five 
 Europeans and a Chinese to serve as interpreters. Being one of 
 the number, I had the honour of waiting on Count Ismailof 
 together with the others. After an exchange of compliments, 
 the ambassador said he had a letter from the Czar, which he was 
 instructed to deliver into his Celestial Majesty's own hands ; and 
 on being questioned as to its contents, he produced a copy, and 
 gave it to the commissioners. Louis Fan, the Chinese inter- 
 preter, was desired to read it; but the letter was written in 
 Latin, and the poor man knew so little of this language, that he 
 had been obliged to petition the Pope for a dispensation from 
 reading mass eveiy day. He muttered and mumbled till he 
 wore out the patience of the bystanders ; and when at length 
 he was pressed to tell the meaning, he was obliged to confess 
 that he could not make it out. The letter was then handed 
 to us, and we immediately read the contents. It imported that 
 
chap, xix.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 103 
 
 the Czar, being desirous to strengthen the good understanding 
 in which he had hitherto lived with the Emperor, had sent Count 
 Ismailof as his ambassador, requesting his Majesty to listen to 
 all the details that he would have to submit to him, and not 
 to send him back to Moscow before the business on which he 
 had been dispatched was completely arranged. 
 
 The commissioners were incessant in their inquiries respecting 
 the business alluded to in the letter ; but the Mary Ismailof con- 
 stantly replied that he was forbidden to speak upon the subject 
 until the letter had been received by the Emperor, and his 
 diplomatic capacity acknowledged. As however the commis- 
 sioners insisted upon having the first information, the ambassador, 
 being at length overcome by their troublesome importunity, 
 stated that the whole business consisted in the establishment of a 
 treaty between che Russians and the Chinese, in order to avert 
 any future misunderstanding. Whilst we were engaged in con- 
 versation with the ambassador, the dinner sent him by his Majesty 
 arrived ; and when he was requested to return thanks, by making 
 the accustomed prostrations, he refused, alleging that he repre- 
 sented his sovereign, who was on equal terms with the Emperor ; 
 but that he would make an obeisance according to the custom of 
 his country. The commissioners could not obtain any further 
 concessions, and were obliged to be satisfied. 
 
 The Emperor having been immediately informed of this, was 
 as much satisfied with the contents of the letter, and the business 
 on which the ambassador had been sent, as he was displeased to 
 hear of the reluctance which he had shown to perform the indis- 
 pensable prostrations. But he dissembled; and in order to 
 obtain his object without coming to a rupture, he resorted to 
 the stratagem of inviting Count Ismailof to a private audience, 
 saying that he would receive the Czar's letter upon a subsequent 
 occasion. The ambassador immediately perceived the snare, 
 and returned thanks to hie* Majesty for the honour he was willing 
 to grant him as a private individual ; but added that, as he was 
 in the service of his sovereign, he must first beg to present his 
 letter. 
 
 The Emperor then ordered us to inform the ambassador that, 
 as he declined being presented to him before delivering the 
 Czar's letter, his Majesty would neither receive the letter nor 
 
104 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xix. 
 
 the gifts sent him by the Czar ; and that he might therefore 
 return to Russia. To this Ismailof replied that, before execut- 
 ing the commission he had received from his sovereign, he could 
 not receive any personal distinction ; and when he was asked 
 whether, in presenting the letter, he would perform the prostra- 
 tions, he answered that he would not ; but that he would make 
 the obeisance which European ambassadors made before the 
 princes to whom they were sent. 
 
 Upon this the Emperor commanded one of his principal 
 eunuchs, a page, the master of the ceremonies, and the five Euro- 
 pean interpreters to inform the ambassador that, out of regard 
 to the Czar, he had been induced to do him the honour which he 
 had refused; that, according to the immutable ceremonial of 
 China, it was incumbent upon ambassadors to make the prostra- 
 tions, and to place the letter upon a table, whence it was taken 
 by a great officer of state, and presented to his Majesty ; that 
 although such was the custom, he would waive it on that parti- 
 cular occasion, and receive him in the great hall : that, besides 
 this manner of presenting any thing written to his Majesty, there 
 was also the official channel of his government ; and that he 
 could choose which of the two ways suited him best. To the 
 suggestion of the official channel, the ambassador replied with a 
 smile ; and with respect to the other, he answered that he was 
 commanded by his master to deliver the letter into his Majesty's 
 own hands, and that he could not take upon himself to depart 
 from his instructions. The eunuch then told him that, if neither 
 of these ways satisfied him, he might endeavour to meet the 
 Emperor, as he was coming to Peking, and kneeling down 
 before his Majesty, present him the letter on the public road. 
 Count Ismailof also rejected this advice as indecorous towards his 
 own sovereign, and persisted in saying that he would deliver the 
 letter into the Emperor's own hands, in the place where he was 
 accustomed to receive the ambassadors of other powers. At 
 this presumption, highly offensive to Chinese pride, the eunuch 
 smiled, and the page said that the ambassador must be mad ; 
 whereupon, without saying one word more, we all rose and 
 broke up the conference. 
 
 The interpreters were again summoned to the palace, and a 
 decree, written by the Emperor himself, was given to them for 
 
chap, xix.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 105 
 
 translation, with the injunction that they should represent it as 
 the work of his Majesty's ministers, and should request the am- 
 bassador to reply, categorically, to every particular. The trans- 
 lation was executed by one of us who was not in sufficient pos- 
 session of the Tartar language to render several parts of the 
 manifesto very clearly. 
 
 The subject of this imperial edict, which was supposed to be 
 addressed by the Foreign Office to the ambassador, was as fol- 
 lows: — "The Emperor had hitherto received, and treated with 
 great honour, all envoys of foreign powers ; and as during many 
 years he had been on a good understanding with the Czar, as 
 soon as he was informed of the approach of his ambassador to 
 Peking, he had sent some mandarins to meet him, furnishing 
 him with horses, and whatever else was necessary in the journey. 
 On the ambassador's arrival in Peking, one of his Majesty's 
 eunuchs was sent to him with dishes from the imperial table, and 
 a message that after a few days he would be received at court. 
 His Majesty thought that aJi these favours might have induced 
 him to give up his unreasonable pretensions of delivering the 
 letter with his own hands, as he was no more than a representa- 
 tive of his master. This circumstance had awakened much sus- 
 picion upon his conduct. If he expected to receive the same 
 honours as those that would be paid to the Czar if personally 
 present in Peking, the marks of respect hitherto shown him 
 were certainly insufficient, and other forms and ceremonies must 
 be put in practice. He however was not the Czar, but merely 
 his envoy, and even for that his Majesty did not consider the 
 credentials as entirely satisfactory. Although he had boasted 
 of being not only an ambassador, but also a prime minister, he 
 might be a merchant, who, the better to succeed in his traffic, 
 had disguised himself as an ambassador. But granting tha. he 
 1 ad really been dispatched by the Czar, and that he was in fact 
 his ambassador, yet he ought not on this account to be so pre- 
 sumptuous, nor insist upon presenting his letter with his own 
 hands, as one familiar friend would to another, without observing 
 any of those ceremonies which in China are indispensable, as 
 must have been known not only to him, but to the Czar also. 
 In this manner it was impossible that he should ever attain the 
 object of his embassy. ,, 
 
106 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xix. 
 
 Such was the purport of this imperial manifesto, which con- 
 cluded by directing that, as the conduct of the ambassador was 
 so suspicious, the Foreign Office should make strict inquiries into 
 the matter, and exact from hiin detailed explanations on every 
 point. 
 
 When the translation was completed, the eunuch asked us 
 whether the ambassador and the gentlemen of his suite under- 
 stood the Latin language, and as we replied that they did but 
 very little, he then desired me to make it in Italian. Fearing 
 that Count Ismailof might suspect that I had some share in the 
 invectives contained in the decree, and excite the Czar's hatred 
 against the Propaganda, in whose service I was, I replied that 
 the ambassador was better acquainted with the French than with 
 Italian. Upon this the eunuch immediately ordered that the 
 translation should be executed in the French language, and the 
 task was accordingly confided to Father Parrenin. It was for- 
 tunate for me that he relieved me from this duty, as Count 
 Ismailof actually conceived suspicions of the other interpreters, 
 but never of myself. Had this been otherwise, it would have 
 grieved me much, for afterwards he was recommended to me by 
 the Bishop of Peking in the name of the Propaganda. 
 
 The French translation of the imperial decree, together with 
 the original copy in Tartar characters, was conveyed by the 
 mandarins to the ambassador without the aid of the interpreter. 
 I was however informed that he did not appear in the least sur- 
 prised at the blame thus bestowed upon him, and that he again 
 expressed his determination not to make the required prostra- 
 tions, and to present the letter with his own hands. 
 
 The mandarins returned to the ambassador with an answer 
 also written by the Emperor himself, but with more condescen- 
 sion, and in the name of the government. Count Ismailof 
 again declared in the same manner, that he would not make the 
 prostrations, and demanded permission to place the Czar's letter 
 himself in the hands of the Emperor. 
 
 His Majesty perceiving that the ambassador firmly persisted 
 in this resolution, no longer corresponded with him in the name 
 of the government, but sent several mandarins, accompanied by 
 interpreters, of whom I was one, immediately from himself. "We 
 stated that the Emperor considered the family of the Czar as 
 
chap, xix.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 107 
 
 his own, and that the Czar's honour was equally dear to his Ma- 
 jesty, with many other similar expressions which were made to 
 bear upon the pending question. We added, that whenever he 
 should send an ambassador to the Czar, he promised that his re- 
 presentative should stand uncovered before him, although in 
 China none but condemned criminals exposed their heads bare, 
 and should perform all the other ceremonies customary at Mos- 
 cow. No sooner had we arrived at these words, than the chief 
 mandarin instantly took off his cap before the ambassador ; and 
 the latter being thus satisfied, promised to perform the prostra- 
 tions according to Chinese custom, and also to place the letter 
 upon the table in sight of the Emperor sitting on his throne, so 
 that one of the courtiers might afterwards convey it to his Ma- 
 jesty. The mandarin farther stated, that the ambassador had 
 the imperial permission to repair to the gate of the palace in the 
 same state as he had entered Peking, namely with drawn swords, 
 music, and other distinctions. After this Count Ismailof endea- 
 voured to justify his conduct, and produced the original instruc- 
 tions confided to him by the Czar, in which, among other things, 
 he was commanded not to perform the prostrations, and to insist 
 on delivering the letter himself into the hands of the Emperor. 
 It was finally arranged that the ceremony should take place on 
 the 9th of the same month. 
 
108 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xx. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Reception of Count Israailof— Court Dinner — Eulogy of the European 
 Missionaries — Presents — The Emperor's Advice to the Czar. 
 
 On the appointed day Count Ismailof went to the palace to 
 present the letter to the Emperor, with the usual ceremonies 
 and prostrations, as had been agreed ; and the presentation took 
 place in the manner which I am about to describe. 
 
 After the ambassador and the ninety men of his suite had 
 been kept waiting a good while in the open vestibule of the 
 Great Audience Hall, the Emperor entered it, followed 
 by the principal officers of state, and mounted his magnificent 
 throne by some steps on the left, whilst every one else ascended 
 on the right. His Majesty took his place in a chair gorgeously 
 decorated, having on his right three of his sons seated upon 
 cushions, and a little farther off', the halberdiers, pages, eunuchs, 
 chief courtiers, and ourselves, all standing; we interpreters 
 wearing the dress and insignia of great mandarins. At the foot 
 of the throne, on the floor of the Great Hall, sat upon cushions, 
 in distinct rows, the first mandarins of the empire, the Koong- 
 yeh, or lords of the imperial family, and many other mandarins 
 of inferior rank. Before the throne, near the entrance of the 
 Great Hall, stood a table prepared with sweetmeats for his Ma- 
 jesty. In the open vestibule, which was a few steps lower than 
 the Great Hall, there was another table, beyond which Count 
 Ismailof was standing. According to Chinese etiquette, the 
 ambassador should have placed the letter upon this table, kneel- 
 ing down in the vestibule ; but the Emperor ordered that the 
 table should be brought into the Audience Hall, and that the 
 ambassador should also advance, which was a mark of great 
 honour. 
 
 Count Ismailof then entered, and immediately prostrated him- 
 self before the table, holding up the Czar's letter with both 
 hands. The Emperor, who had at first behaved graciously to 
 
chap, xx] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 109 
 
 Ismailof, now thought proper to mortify him, by making him 
 remain some time in this particular posture. The proud Russian 
 was indignant at this treatment, and gave unequivocal signs of 
 resentment by certain motions of his mouth, and by turning his 
 head aside, which under such circumstances was very unseemly. 
 Hereupon his Majesty prudently requested that the ambassador 
 himself should take up the letter to him, and when Count Ismai- 
 lof did so, kneeling down at his feet, he received it with his own 
 hands, thus giving him another mark of regard, and granting 
 what he had previously refused. 
 
 After the presentation of the letter, the ambassador, attended 
 by the master of the ceremonies, returned to his former place in 
 the open vestibule. Shortly after, he moved to the centre oppo- 
 site the chair in which the Emperor was sitting ; behind him 
 stood his principal attendants, and further back a number of 
 soldiers and servants. 
 
 When all present were thus marshalled in due order, at parti- 
 cular signals given by the master in chief of the ceremonies, 
 they all went down upon their knees, and after the lapse of a 
 few minutes, beat their heads thrice to the ground. After this 
 all arose upon their feet, then again kneeled down and prostrated 
 themselves three times. In this manner they kneeled thrice, and 
 performed nine prostrations. 
 
 The ambassador was then conducted again to the Emperor's 
 feet, and was asked by his Majesty, through us interpreters, who 
 were standing, what request he had to make. Count Ismailof 
 answered in the French language, that the Czar had sent him to 
 inquire after the health of his Majesty, and to confirm the friendly 
 relations that existed between them ; and that he himself also 
 took the liberty of inquiring after the state of his Majesty's 
 health. 
 
 To these inquiries the Emperor replied in a very courteous 
 manner; and then added, that it being a feast day, it would not 
 be proper to discuss business, for which an audience would be 
 granted at another opportunity. He then commanded Count 
 Ismailof and his attendants to be seated. The ambassador was 
 then permitted to sit down upon a low cushion at the end of the 
 row in winch were the Koong-yeh, as mentioned above, and four 
 of his principal attendants were placed behind him at the ex- 
 
110 FATHER RIPAS RESIDENCE [chap. xx. 
 
 tremity of the next row. All his other folio wors were directed 
 to remain in the vestibule. When they were all seated, his Ma- 
 jesty began to speak, addressing his discourse to the ambassador, 
 and said that he was not to be surprised at seeing the European 
 missionaries of our party habited in the dress and decorations of 
 great mandarins : that we were not mandarins, but only appa- 
 relled as such by his command, so that we might take part in 
 the ceremony, to which none but persons in that costume could 
 be admitted; but that although we were not mandarins, it was 
 not to be inferred that we were unworthy of such distinction, but 
 merely unwilling to be elevated to this dignity, as well as other 
 honours, which he would otherwise gladly have bestowed. lie 
 also wished the ambassador not to feel surprised at our being 
 placed nearer to the throne than himself, or the great manda- 
 rins and lords, as ours was an exceptional place, granted only 
 for that particular occasion, while that occupied by Ismailof 
 was in the rank of his own grandees. He moreover desired him 
 to understand that we Europeans were not residing at Peking by 
 force or constraint, like prisoners of war, and so brought to the 
 capital, but that we had come from distant countries of our own 
 free-will to offer him our services ; and that even on that day 
 we had assisted him as interpreters not by command, but merely 
 by invitation. He lastly declared, that during the whole of his 
 reign we had committed no fault deserving even a reprimand ; 
 and that he gave us such marks of his affection because he 
 wished to gain ours. His Majesty was pleased on that day to 
 say from his throne these and many other things in praise of the 
 Europeans, not only for the information of the ambassador, but 
 also to justify himself before his courtiers, who were astonished 
 to see us so highly honoured. 
 
 When the Emperor had finished his eulogy of the Europeans, 
 he put many questions to the ambassador upon various subjects. 
 After these he called him to the throne, and with his own hands 
 gave him some wine in a gold cup, an act of condescension which 
 he also bestowed on his four principal attendants above-meu- 
 tioned. He then commanded his great officers of state to sum- 
 mon the remaining persons composing the ambassador's suite to 
 the door of the Great Hall, in parties of five, and to serve them 
 with drink. In the meantime a table of sweetmeats was con- 
 
chap, xx.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. Ill 
 
 veyed to the ambassador, and then another upon which were 
 dishes from the Emperor's own table. As all the company were 
 seated in the Tartar fashion, that is, with the legs crossed, and 
 upon very low cushions, the tables were scarcely a foot high. 
 All those who were seated on the floor of the Great Hall, as 
 well as ourselves, were each* furnished with a little table, and 
 thus we all ate and drank, his Majesty continuing on the throne. 
 
 During the repast, the Emperor ordered his musicians to play 
 and sing in the Chinese fashion ; and after this two youths were 
 introduced, who danced with so much elegance, that we Eu- 
 ropeans were much astonished at the performance. In the ves- 
 tibule, where the ambassador's suite was entertained, the same 
 kind of amusements were provided ; and after two hours had 
 been thus passed, the Emperor retired, and we proceeded to an- 
 other part of the palace to join the other Europeans. Here we 
 all prostrated ourselves before the mandarins, and returned 
 thanks to his Majesty for the honour he had done us by the great 
 eulogy above-mentioned. His Majesty sent a message to us by 
 the eunuch Ching-foo, importing that he had thus spoken in our 
 favour, in order, by making our good qualities generally known, 
 to palliate anything of a contrary nature ; and that although he 
 had punished Pedrini, that fact must be considered as a family 
 transaction, for he had behaved towards him as a father to his 
 son, without any publicity. 
 
 On the following morning the Emperor sent a dinner to the 
 ambassador and the whole of his suite ; and as his Majesty was 
 at Chan-choon-yuen, and the ambassador at Peking, we were 
 obliged to perform a journey of three hours on horseback. The 
 eunuch put so many questions to the ambassador, partly by com- 
 mand and partly to satisfy his own curiosity, that we were de- 
 tained till three o'clock in the afternoon. We then returned to 
 the palace at a gallop ; and as I had not yet broken my fast, I 
 found myself so weak, that it was with great difficulty I could 
 keep my seat upon the horse. This kind of hardship I expe- 
 rienced very often, but I only mention it to show the kind of 
 honourable galley-slaves we were at the imperial court. 
 
 Upon a certain day appointed for the purpose, the ambassador 
 presented the gifts sent by his sovereign, consisting of two 
 watches studded with diamonds, a clock in a case of crystal, 
 
112 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xx. 
 
 containing a portrait of the Czar, which was not at all relished 
 by the Chinese, who did not like to see the portrait of the Czar 
 thus publicly exhibited ; a beautiful casket likewise adorned with 
 crystal; eight large mirrors, some cases of mathematical in- 
 struments, a large hemisphere, a level, a microscope, some tele- 
 scopes, a hundred sable skins, the same number of ermine and of 
 fox ; and some articles turned by the Czar himself. His Majesty 
 accepted all these presents, which, as I said elsewhere, was 
 a mark of especial honour ; and gave the ambassador, and each 
 of his four principal attendants, an enamelled snuff-box, made 
 in his imperial manufactory. 
 
 When the Emperor had accepted these presents, the ambas- 
 sador and two gentlemen of his suite were again received by Ids 
 Majesty in his private apartments, where, after performing the 
 usual prostrations, they were again invited to a repast, of which 
 we interpreters were also allowed to partake. Upon this the 
 conversation turned exclusively on the peace which it was expe- 
 dient to preserve between the two monarchies, during which the 
 Emperor repeatedly commanded the Russians to listen in silence, 
 and to write in their language what he was going to say, so that 
 they might report it to their master. He likewise ordered the 
 Tartars to record it in their language, and us Europeans in ours, 
 and to furnish the ambassador with an accurate translation, that 
 he might cany to his sovereign the important piece of advice he 
 wished to send him. His Majesty then began to speak, and after 
 a bombastic preamble, said that the peace and welfare of the two 
 nations depended on the Czar's health ; and that, having heard 
 how he delighted in marine excursions, he was desirous to warn 
 him against the inconstancy of the sea, lest he should thus expose 
 himself to destruction. At the conclusion of this solemn illus- 
 tration of the old saying, " Parturiunt montes, nascetnr ridiculus 
 mus," Count Ismailof had great difficulty in refraining from 
 laughter, as he himself afterwards told me. 
 
 As the Emperor's elephants are kept near the house of the 
 Portuguese Jesuits, his Majesty ordered that upon a certain day 
 the ambassador and the four principal officers of his suite should 
 be entertained by these missionaries, and then escorted to see the 
 imperial stables. There were thirty-three elephants instructed 
 to perform various feats and tricks, which they executed in the 
 
chap, xx.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 113 
 
 presence of the ambassador, blowing trumpets with their trunks, 
 and kneeling or dancing at the command of their keepers. 
 
 The day after we returned to the palace with Count Ismailof 
 and his secretary, when his Majesty gave each of them a superb 
 dress of sables, a vase of fine metal, and two glasses of wine. 
 
 The ambassador was also invited to dine at the residence of 
 the French Jesuits, who gave him a sumptuous entertainment, 
 enlivened by the best music to be found in those parts, which is 
 not at all disagreeable to the ear ; this was followed by dances, 
 and tricks of legerdemain, which excited the admiration of all 
 the company. 
 
 On the 13th of March, 1721, Count Ismailof departed with 
 his train from Peking on his way back to Moscow, taking with 
 him many valuable presents sent by the Emperor to the Czar. 
 As my attention was then engrossed by other matters, I will not 
 attempt to describe these presents, or any other transaction of 
 the embassy, lest I should commit any error. I will only add 
 one incident, which may perhaps give an idea of the immense 
 wealth of the Chinese monarch. One day I was commanded to 
 show to the ambassador and some of his attendants his Majesty's 
 collection of clocks and watches. On entering the room, Count 
 Ismailof was so astonished at the number and variety of these 
 articles displayed before him, that he suspected they were counter- 
 feit. I then requested him to take some of them in his hand, 
 and having done so, he was surprised to find them all perfect. 
 But his astonishment increased still more when I told him that 
 all the clocks and watches he now saw were intended for pre- 
 sents, and that his Majesty possessed a still greater number, placed 
 in various parts of his palaces for his own use. 
 
114 FATHER RIPAS RESIDENCE [chap. xxi. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 The Emperor in Bed —Life at Jc-hol — A quid pro quo — Hard Living — 
 Illness of Sci pel. 
 
 During the stay of the Russian embassy in Peking, Dr. Volta, 
 a Milanese priest and physician, arrived at Chan-choon-yuen, 
 and I was summoned to accompany him when he was intro- 
 duced to the Emperor. After asking him a few questions, his 
 Majesty commanded him to feel his pulse. Dr. Volta imme- 
 diately obeyed, but remarked that, in order to form a correct 
 opinion of the state of his Majesty's health, he must feel his pulse 
 on that evening and the next morning. This being therefore 
 repeated when the Emperor went to bed, and then again before 
 he arose, the physician pronounced him to be in an excellent 
 state of health. I observed on this occasion that his Majesty's 
 bed was wide enough to contain five or six persons, and had no 
 sheets. The upper part of the mattress, as well as the under 
 part of the quilt, was lined with lambs'-skin, and the Emperor 
 slept between these, without wearing any night-clothes. As it 
 seldom happens that an Emperor is seen in bed by strangers, 
 he said to us, kl You are foreigners, and yet you see me in bed." 
 We replied that we had that honour because his Majesty treated 
 us as his sons ; whereupon he added, M I consider you as mem- 
 bers of my own house, and very near relatives." 
 
 The life to which I was doomed this year, when we went to 
 Je-hol, was quite that of a prisoner. The Emperor being much 
 pleased with Sci pel's sculptures, thought proper, lest the artist 
 should work for any one else by stealth, to shut him up in his 
 inner palace, appointing me to be his interpreter. The outer 
 palace, to which the Emperor repaired on certain days of the 
 week for the transaction of business, had a guard of soldiers, and 
 was open to all the officers of state; but the inner one, con- 
 taining his Majesty's seraglio, was guarded by eunuchs, and even 
 sons and nephews of the Emperor were excluded. If by any 
 
chap, xxi.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 115 
 
 accident a stranger was required to enter it, lie could only 60 so 
 under the escort of twenty eunuchs, who took every possible pre- 
 caution to prevent him from seeing any of the female inmates. 
 
 According to a custom strictly observed in China, the Em- 
 peror cannot inhabit the apartments which were occupied by 
 his parents, nor use the throne of his predecessor ; and as his 
 Majesty's mother had died a few years before, Scipel and I were 
 commanded to take possession of her empty house. It consisted 
 of a small parlour, and a few other apartments ; and was built 
 within a small garden, at the top of a delightful little promontory, 
 which commanded a lake of some extent. By bringing the water 
 of the river which flows close by Je-hol into his gardens, the 
 Emperor had formed the lake, and a number of canals, which 
 were plentifully stocked with fresh-water fish. 
 
 On the other side of the lake there was a cottage opposite to 
 our own, whither his Majesty often retired to study, accompanied 
 by some of his concubines. As the windows in China are as 
 high and broad as the rooms themselves, and in summer are 
 kept wide open on account of the heat, through the holes in ours, 
 which were framed with paper, I saw the Emperor employed in 
 reading or writing, while these wretched women remained sit- 
 ting upon cushions, as silent as novices. Through these holes 
 I also observed the eunuchs while they were engaged in various 
 ways of fishing. His Majesty would then sit in a superb little 
 boat, with five or sU concubines at his feet f some Tartar ano 
 others Chinese; all dressed in their national costumes. The 
 boat was always followed by many others, all loaded with ladies. 
 
 When the Emperor's presence was required in the outer 
 palace on some business, he generally went by water ; and, as 
 he necessarily passed under my window, I also saw him. He 
 always came in a boat with some concubines, and with a train of 
 other boats loaded with ladies. On reaching the spot where, by 
 a secret door, he entered the room in which he gave audience, 
 he left the concubines behind, in charge of the eunuchs. I saw 
 him several times about the gardens, but never on foot. He was 
 always carried in a sedan-chair, surrounded by a crowd of concu- 
 bines, all walking and smiling. Sometimes he sat upon a high 
 seat, in the form of a throne, with a number of eunuchs stand- 
 ing arounch him ; and, watching a favourable momeat, he sud- 
 
 1 2 
 
116 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap.xxi. 
 
 denly threw among his ladies, grouped before him on carpets 
 of felt, artificial snakes, toads, and other loathsome animals, in 
 order to enjoy the pleasure of seeing them scamper away with 
 their crippled feet. At other times he sent some of his ladies 
 to gather filberts and other fruits upon a neighbouring hill, and 
 pretending to be craving for some, he urged on the poor lame 
 creatures with noisy exclamations until some of them fell to the 
 ground, when he indulged in a loud and hearty laugh. Such 
 were frequently the recreations of his Imperial Majesty, and 
 particularly in the cool of the summer evenings. Whether he 
 was in the country, or at Peking, he saw no other company but 
 his ladies and eunuchs ; a manner of life which, in my opinion, 
 is one of the most wretched, though the worldly consider it as 
 the height of happiness. 
 
 While staying at this cottage, I was one day informed by one 
 of the eunuchs, that if I wished to see a Holy Bonze, greatly 
 renowned in China, 1 had but to look through the holes of the 
 paper, and I should see him pass. I accordingly tried to see ; 
 but instead of directing my view towards the north, where the 
 said Bonze was passing, I looked towards the west, and I dis- 
 covered upon the shore of the lake a person clothed in a scarlet 
 mantle, with a splendid head-dress of jewels, similar to those 
 represented upon the heads of Chinese goddesses. To this per- 
 son a little boy, about five years old, was speaking on his knees. 
 The eunuch asked me what I thought of the divine Bonze. I 
 replied that it was a lamentable thing that one so beautiful and 
 so young should so soon have learned the art of deception ; 
 having already persuaded the Emperor that he knew how to 
 render man immortal, and actually causing himself to be adored 
 as a divinity by one of his Majesty's children. The eunuch, 
 healing me talk of youth, beauty, and adoration, asked me in 
 what direction I had been looking. " Towards the west," I 
 answered ; at which he laughed heartily, and told me to look 
 towards the north, as it was not too late. Following his direc- 
 tion, I now perceived the Bonze in a little boat, accompanied by 
 eunuchs, who were conveying him to the Emperor ; and I was 
 afterwards informed by my friend, that the idol which I had 
 seen was no other than one of his Majesty's principal concu- 
 bines, who, being indisposed, was taking the air upon the shores 
 
chap, xxi.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. Ill 
 
 of the lake ; and that the child whom I had seen kneeling before 
 her was her son. 
 
 Every morning, except on feast days, Scipel and I repaired to 
 our cottage by break of day, that is, before the ladies left the 
 seraglio ; and there we were obliged to remain till they were 
 again secured in their apartments, which generally happened 
 about sun-set. During the hot months, however, they some- 
 times stayed out of doors till nearly one o'clock in the morning, 
 and then the eunuchs detained us until that late hour. We were 
 supplied M r ith food from the imperial kitchen, but it was always 
 cold, and not being accustomed to this, we suffered greatly. 
 
 In his latter years the Emperor had become very economical ; 
 and on hearing that our food was furnished from his table, he 
 sent his eunuch Ching-foo to inquire whether we continued to 
 receive the twelve taels per month which he had allowed us for 
 our provisions. I replied in the affirmative ; and the eunuch re- 
 primanded me sharply, as having attempted to extort a double 
 allowance ; but he was not a little confused when I informed 
 him, that so far from making such an attempt, we often peti- 
 tioned to be permitted to dine in our own house, according to 
 the manner of our country, and our prayer had never been an- 
 swered. His Majesty was soon convinced of the rectitude of our 
 conduct, but he did not like us to leave the cottage in the even- 
 ing, lest we should meet any of his concubines. All we obtained 
 was, that we need not in future enter the Palace at sun-rise, but 
 four hours after, when the ladies retired to dinner. Trining as 
 this change was, we both rejoiced at it, for it just gave us time 
 enough to set our household in order, and to perform religious 
 duties which we had long been obliged to neglect. 
 
 My constitution having already suffered greatly from various 
 causes, I was afraid that this mode of living might entirely de- 
 stroy it ; but though I had been from my youth of a spare habit 
 of body, I now began to grow fat and strong. In the morning 
 before going to the cottage, I ate as much as my stomach would 
 bear; in the afternoon I took a piece of bread, which I brought 
 with me, and drank tea with it ; and upon returning home, I 
 supped with an excellent appetite. But Scipel was not so for- 
 tunate. His constitution sank gradually day by day, till at last 
 a long and serious illness nearly deprived him of his life. 
 
118 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xxii. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Death of the Emperor Kang-hy — Funeral Rites—Punishment of two great 
 Mandarins. 
 
 Early in the year 1722 I was appointed interpreter and guide 
 to Father Angelo, the Emperor's watchmaker ; and as we spent 
 the whole day in the imperial collection of clocks and watches 
 at Peking, which was more than two hours' journey from our 
 apartments at Chan-choon-yuen, the mandarins ordered that we 
 should lodge in the houses of the French or Portuguese Jesuits. 
 The resident superiors, however, refused to receive us, under 
 pretence that they had no accommodation. Hereupon I resolved 
 to seize the opportunity, and attempt to establish a house in 
 Peking for the use of the missionaries sent by the Propaganda, 
 hoping that the Emperor would not object to the foundation, or 
 else that he would compel the Jesuits to lodge us. I therefore 
 purchased a dilapidated edifice, in a good situation, within the 
 yellow wall, which I almost wholly rebuilt, without allowing 
 the French and Portuguese Jesuits to discover what I was doing ; 
 and as soon as it could be inhabited, Father Angelo and myself 
 took up our residence there, to our ineffable delight. 
 
 In the meantime his Majesty, who was at Ilae-tsoo, the ancient 
 country-mansion of the Chinese emperors, was suddenly seized 
 with inflammation. This illness is not so common in the north 
 of China as it is in the south of Italy, owing perhaps to the 
 difference of climate ; for in Peking, from September till March 
 the cold increases in uniform gradation, and from March to Sep- 
 tember decreases in the same manner, while at Naples the weather 
 passes from one extreme to another in the course of the same 
 day, owing to the prevailing sciroccos. In consequence of this 
 illness his Majesty returned to his palace of Chan-choon-yuen, 
 also called Hae-tien. One or two days after, the Europeans 
 came there to inquire after the state of his Majesty's health ; and 
 
chap, xxii.l AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 119 
 
 on this occasion the French and Portuguese Jesuits, who had 
 discovered the purchase I had made, offered to accommodate me 
 in their houses, but I declined with thanks. They observed that 
 the Emperor, on learning what I had done, might be angry with 
 us all ; and I replied that, though it was not my fault, I waa 
 ready to abide by the consequences. 
 
 On the 20th of December, 1722, I was talking after supper 
 with Father Angelo in the house of his Majesty's uncle, where 
 we resided, when I heard an unusual murmuring noise, as if 
 arising from a number of voices within the palace. Being 
 acquainted with the manners of the country, I instantly caused 
 the doors to be locked, and remarked to my companion that 
 either the Emperor was dead, or else that a rebellion had broken 
 out at Peking. In order to satisfy myself as to the cause of the 
 disturbance, I climbed up on the wall of our dwelling, which 
 skirted the public road, and saw with astonishment an innumer- 
 able multitude of horsemen, riding furiously in every direction, 
 without, speaking to each other. After watching their move- 
 ments for some time, I at last heard some persons on foot say 
 that the Emperor Kang-hy was dead. I was afterwards informed 
 that, when given over by. his physicians, he had appointed as his 
 saccessor his fourth son, Young-Chin, who immediately began 
 to reign, and to be obeyed by everybody. One of the first cares 
 of the new Emperor was to have the corpse of his father clothed, 
 and conveyed the same night to the palace at Peking, attending 
 it himself on horseback, followed by his brothers, children, and 
 relatives, and escorted by a countless host of soldiers with drawn 
 swords. The next morning I repaired to Peking with Father 
 Angeio and Scipel, for the purpose of going to the palace, to 
 show our concern for the death of Kang-hy ; but we were not 
 admitted that day or the following. 
 
 I have already described what I and the other Europeans had 
 done upon the death of Kang-hy's mother. The same cere- 
 monies were now to be performed for the death of the deceased 
 Emperor. We entered the palace with the other missionaries, 
 all clothed in mourning, and went directly to the gate Isi-niu- 
 cung, where we found the mandarins assembled. Some of the 
 missionaries, after speaking aside with the mandarins, followed 
 them to the entrance of the inner palace, where the corpse lay, 
 
120 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xxir. 
 
 and the funeral rites were performed. I then observed to 
 Father Rinaldi, who, being newly arrived, trusted entirely to 
 my directions, that they were going towards the bier, but I did 
 not know what ceremonies they intended to perform. Upon 
 this Father Rinaldi asked them what they were going to do ; 
 and he received for answer, that there would be no improper 
 or idolatrous sacrifices, no papers burnt, no libations of wine 
 performed. On this assurance we followed the others; and 
 through the gate already mentioned, we entered a spacious court, 
 in which we found a vast number of mandarins upon their knees. 
 They were all habited in mourning, and weeping ; and from 
 time to time, upon a signal from the master of the ceremonies, 
 they all at once raised such a howl of lamentation as filled the 
 sky ; after which they performed their prostrations. 
 
 We were then ordered to kneel also, but in a place apart from 
 the mandarins. In this position we wept with them, and made 
 the same prostrations, not perceiving anything unlawful or 
 unchristian in such marks of grief. During several days we 
 repaired to the same spot, and repeated the same ceremonies. 
 
 When the funeral rites were over, I asked a mandarin who 
 had" assisted at the ceremony, in what manner it had been per- 
 formed ; and he replied, that during the whole time the body 
 was lying in the palace no paper money had been burnt ; but 
 that, after the removal of the body to Kiah-Shian, the mountain 
 of gold, a place immediately without the gate of the palace, such 
 a quantity of paper money had been burnt that the air around 
 vas for a time clouded with smoke. He also told me that the 
 Tien-tsien, or libation of wine, had been made, and had taken 
 place in this manner : — The president of the Board of Rites pre- 
 sented a vessel of wine to the Emperor, who poured it into a 
 large golden bowl ; and at the same moment the master of the 
 ceremonies gave a signal, at which the mandarins, and we mis- 
 sionaries with them, performed their prostrations. On hearing 
 that we had, even unconsciously, taken part in this work of super- 
 stition, 1 was grieved and alarmed to a degree which it would 
 be impossible for me to express ; and in order to preclude the 
 recurrence of such a misfortune, I resolved to quit that Babylon 
 at any risk, and as soon as possible. 
 
 A few days after the Emperor Kang-hy's death, whilst the 
 
chap, xxii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 121 
 
 funeral rites above mentioned were being performed, Young- 
 Chin, his successor, marked his accession to the throne by an 
 act of justice which struck the whole empire with astonishment. 
 The mandarin Chao was seized by his command, loaded with 
 heavy chains, and condemned to die under a wooden collar, 
 which is a sort of walking pillory, weighing nearly two hundred 
 pounds. The property of this arrogant courtier was confiscated, 
 his family enslaved, and his concubines assigned to other per- 
 sons. His Majesty, in a proclamation, declared that he had thus 
 punished him for his pride, and for the ill use he made of his 
 authority in persecuting the Europeans : all which I could but 
 attribute to the decrees of an over-ruling Providence. Such was 
 the end of the renowned Chao-Chang, who was the declared 
 enemy of Cardinal de Tournon, and of all Christians in general. 
 An end still more deplorable than that of Chao awaited his 
 intimate friend Mo-lao. This worthy had several months before 
 proceeded to Macao, for the purpose of purchasing rich and 
 beautiful articles from Europe, which he intended to present to 
 the late Emperor; and, on receiving the intelligence of his 
 death, he hastened to return and offer his collection to the new 
 sovereign. His friends, who were well aware of the change 
 that had taken place in public affairs, having witnessed the im- 
 prisonment of Chao, and many others of the nobility with whom 
 he was connected, advised him to defer his return. He, how- 
 ever, relying upon the effect that his gift of valuable curiosities 
 would produce, treated their counsel with contempt. On his 
 arrival at Peking he presented his rich offerings to the Emperor, 
 who did him the great honour of accepting them all. Of this 
 I myself was a witness, as his Majesty, soon after his accession, 
 commanded Scipel and me to work in the palace. A few days 
 after Mo-lao was summoned to the court, and, expecting to 
 receive some mark of distinction, he came with an air of triumph, 
 arrayed in his most magnificent robes, and followed by a long 
 train of attendants. He however found a far different reception 
 from what he had anticipated. Scarcely had he entered a gate, 
 near which Scipel and I were standing, when he was presented 
 to the thirteenth brother of the Emperor, who, after bidding 
 him kneel down, ordered him, in the name of his Majesty, imme- 
 diately to join the army, then engaged in war against the Tartar 
 
122 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xxii. 
 
 chief, Tsoo-wang-ar-pat-tan ; adding that he was thus condemned 
 on suspicion of felony, and that he must bear all the expenses 
 attending the sentence. At this unexpected blow the unhappy 
 Mo-lao was thunder-struck ; but after a while, taking courage, 
 he humbly submittal that he was wholly unfit for such a service, 
 both from inexperience of arms and weakness of constitution, 
 and he therefore implored the clemency of his Majesty for his 
 exemption. But the prince, who perfectly understood the Em- 
 peror's object in insisting, on such a command, replied, " Mo-lao, 
 thou well knowest the custom of the court: obey, therefore, 
 without reply, otherwise thou wilt be compelled ;" after which he 
 turned from him, and went away. Mo-lao returned home visibly 
 altered, and upon his arrival great was the fear with which all 
 the inmates of his house were seized, upon learning the unwel- 
 come news. He lay upon his bed weeping bitterly, whilst his 
 servants prepared his luggage for departure, and the day after he 
 left the capital for the army upon the confines of the province of 
 Sheu-sy. When he had reached his destination he was conducted 
 to the same house in which one of the Emperor's own brothers 
 was confined, on the suspicion of having with criminal intention 
 supplied him witli money to purchase those presents, which were 
 far too splendid for the means of any private individual. 
 
 The two exiles, though shut up in separate apartments, con- 
 trived to correspond with each other, and to engage in a con- 
 spiracy, which being at length discovered, they were both 
 conveyed to Peking, loaded with chains. Here the miserable 
 Mo-lao, three different times, had his legs squeezed between two 
 pieces of wood } which were drawn together with such force as 
 nearly to break the bone, and under this torture he confessed 
 himself guilty, but without implicating the prince. His con- 
 fession was made public, and at the bottom of it was written his 
 sentence of death, decreed by the Board of Rites. 
 
 This court had condemned Mo-lao to be beheaded, which in 
 China is as disgraceful as the gallows in Europe, but the Em- 
 peror did not approve of the sentence, and commanded him to 
 be again conducted into the province of Shen-sy. He was ac- 
 cordingly conducted thither in chains, without being permitted 
 to see any one of his family, or to have any of his servants to 
 attend him, and on arriving at the place of his destination, he 
 
chap, xxn.j AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 123 
 
 was kept prisoner in a Tartar temple for several months. At 
 last he was informed that the Emperor condemned him to die 
 by his own hands, and the executioner, after freeing him from 
 his chains, gave him a cup of poison, a halter, and a. dagger, 
 that he might choose for himself whichever death he preferred, 
 but he left him no food. The next day the executioner returned, 
 expecting to find him dead ; but seeing that he was still alive, 
 he urged the necessity of instant execution : Mo-lao then taking 
 oft' a coat of mail adorned with gold, gave it to the man to 
 get more time allowed. The executioner accepted the gift, and 
 went to the mandarins to report that he had not yet killed him- 
 self; but on the following day, finding him once more alive, he 
 stifled him beneath a sack of sand. After this his body was 
 burnt, and, to complete the tragedy, his ashes were scattered to 
 the winds. 
 
124 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. nm. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Exclusion of Europeans from the Imperial Palace — Plotting — Death of the 
 Emperor's Mother — Difficulties — Final resolution to depart 
 
 The remains of the Emperor Kang-hy were now to be removed 
 into Tartary, to the tombs of his ancestors, and we received an 
 order to accompany them to a certain distance out of the gates 
 of the capital. But as we knew that the funeral procession 
 would frequently stop to perform sacrifices and oblations, we re- 
 solved to take no part in the superstitious practices of those 
 heathens, and not to attend. Lest, however, I should give my 
 inveterate enemies a pretext against me, when the head of the 
 procession was more than two miles in advance, so that we could 
 not even see their proceedings, Scipel and I mounted on horse- 
 back, and followed the multitude as far as the place to which we 
 had orders to go. During: my long stay in China, I never had 
 experienced anything so vexatious ana mortifying as the neces- 
 sity under which I was of resorting to so unmanly a device in 
 order to spare my conscience without endangering my personal 
 safety. 
 
 A few months after, all the Europeans were summoned to 
 appear before the Too-yoo-soo, or Board of the Imperial House- 
 hold, when the mandarins informed us in the name of the Go- 
 vernor, who was the seventeenth brother of the Emperor, 
 that for the future, when they wanted anything, they must no 
 longer go to the palace, but communicate with the Board. In 
 consequence of this measure, which has certainly emanated from 
 the Sovereign, the Europeans were excluded from the imperial 
 residence, to which they had hitherto been admitted ; and from 
 that day forward no one of them was allowed to enter it unless 
 by his Majesty's especial permission, as in Scipel's case and my 
 own. 
 
 Although my enemies were greatly humbled by the fall of the 
 
chap, xxm.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 125 
 
 mandarins Chao-chan and Mo-lao, yet the malignity of their 
 conduct continued unchanged. Their shafts were ever aimed at 
 me and my friends, to prevent our establishment in Peking. 
 Two months had now passed since I was informed that they 
 were plotting to compel us to reside with the French and Por- 
 tuguese Jesuits. They were aware that I had already purchased 
 a house, and that Pedrini was treating for another still larger. 
 They also knew that I had opened two chapels in which reli- 
 gious ceremonies were performed, and that Pedrini intended to 
 do the same. For these reasons they feared that by degrees we 
 might assume the spiritual direction of all the Christians in Pe- 
 king, and thus they laboured to prevent it, by forcing us to live 
 with the other Europeans, so that we might have no particular 
 church wherein to officiate. 
 
 But Kang-hy s death brought a new state of things, and they 
 could succeed in none of their projects. Nevertheless, in conse- 
 quence of their evil practices, I was summoned before the Too- 
 yoo-soo, and ordered to produce in writing the names, country, 
 age, and profession of each of us, who were sent by the Propa- 
 ganda. Moreover, the mandarins of the Board questioned me 
 about my friends, and recommended me to remove to one of the 
 houses of the French or Portuguese. To this I replied, that 
 such a scheme could produce no good result, because, belonging 
 to different Orders and nations, we could not all adopt one and 
 the same mode of life, and that, having houses of our own, it was 
 neither just nor decent that we should go and reside with others, 
 putting them and ourselves to the greatest inconvenience. I 
 supported my argument by the conduct of these same French 
 and Portuguese Jesuits, who had obstinately resisted all the en- 
 deavours of the late Emperor Kang-hy to unite them in one 
 society. I further stated, that our object in coming to Peking 
 was to enter into the Emperor's service, and that while we were 
 so occupied, it could not much matter to his Majesty whether 
 we resided in our own houses or in those of others, but that the 
 loss of our comfort and convenience was of great importance to 
 us. At that time, I continued, three of us, namely, Father An- 
 gelo, Scipel, and myself, were selected by his Majesty for his 
 immediate service ; and being without intermission engaged at 
 the palace, we had taken a small house in Peking, that we might 
 
126 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, xxm. 
 
 better attend to his Majesty's orders. The other five resided 
 near the Emperor's palace of Hae-tien, in a house purchased by 
 permission ; and when any one of them should have work to 
 execute for the Emperor, he would be gladly received into my 
 house, or another which Don Pedrini was preparing. These 
 and other arguments of the same nature I found it necessary to 
 employ before the mandarins of the Board, who were not acting 
 by command, and had no interest in the business. They were 
 satisfied with my reasons, and promised to submit them to the 
 Governor ; and as the subject was never revived, I suppose they 
 must have met with his approbation. 
 
 On the 24th of June, 1723, the mother of the reigning Em- 
 peror Young-Chin died ; and recollecting what had happened 
 at the obsequies of the Emperor Kang-hy, I resolved rather to 
 die than again to be implicated in such abominations. Accord- 
 ingly I wrote to our five companions who were at Hae-tien, 
 warning them against any participation in the impending cere- 
 monies, unless in the manner that we had followed the funeral 
 of Kang-hy's mother ; and entreated them to attend at the place 
 where we had been on this latter occasion, instead of that at 
 which we had met at Kang-hy's own death. 
 
 After sending the letter, I went to the Too-yoo-soo to pro- 
 cure mourning, which was distributed to all the Europeans at 
 the expense of the state. The mandarins asked me in what part 
 of the jialace the Europeans had assembled for Kang-hy's obse- 
 quies, and for those of his mother ; whether we had gone to the 
 Kiw-scian, that is, the golden mountain ; and what ceremonies 
 we had performed upon these occasions. I related what has 
 been described above, and concluded by saying that we were 
 permitted to enter the Tsy-nin-koong, and to remain there some 
 time clothed in mourning, and seated on the ground precisely 
 as we had done on the death of Kang-hy's mother. The man- 
 darms replied, that that would do. They however referred the 
 whole matter to certain authorities, who decided that the Eu- 
 ropeans should go to another place, the name of which has now 
 escaped my memory. It was fortunate for us that matters took 
 this turn ; for if the mandarins had resolved to send us into the 
 JLoong-tan-men, in obedience to our instructions from Rome 
 we had determined to refuse. This new trial which I so nar- 
 
chap, xxm.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 127 
 
 rowly escaped, was another reason for hastening my return to 
 Europe. 
 
 Neither I nor the other Europeans knew where to make in- 
 quiries concerning the part of the palace where we were expected 
 to meet, nor could we guess how we were to act. Unable to 
 ascertain whether 1 could lawfully be present or not, 1 resolved 
 not to enter the palace with the other missionaries during the 
 funeral rites, but to show myself to the mandarins after the ce- 
 remony was completed. It so happened, however, that the other 
 missionaries were not obliged to take part in the rites, haviug 
 arrived after the libation of wine had been performed. 
 
 In the afternoon some of my companions returned to the pa- 
 lace, and I went straight to the Too-yoo-soo, where I remained 
 till they came out again. I was afterwards informed that when 
 they had arrived on the spot, they were required to do nothing 
 but to stand apart in a rank, where they remained till the cere- 
 mony was over, without performing any prostrations. 
 
 We afterwards continued to wear mourning, but were not 
 called upon to take part in any other ceremonies ; for according 
 to the will of the deceased Empress, the obsequies were not to 
 be protracted beyond three days, in order that the Emperor 
 might resume without delay the government of so vast an em- 
 pire. 
 
 His Majesty had taken it into his head to have a fountain con- 
 structed which should never cease to play. We were accord- 
 ingly asked by command, whether any of us were able to contrive 
 it. A Frenchman answered to the effect that two of his coun- 
 trymen had lately arrived who would undertake such a work. 
 Father Angelo, through me as interpreter, replied without he- 
 sitation, that he felt equal to the task. The others declared 
 themselves ignorant of such matters. Father Angelo had 
 already begun a design to be submitted to the Emperor, 
 when I was informed that the fountain required by the su- 
 perstitious monarch owed its origin to the following circum- 
 stance. His Majesty had demanded of a certain Bonze, who 
 was believed to be possessed of miraculous powers, how his 
 dynasty could be rendered perpetual— and the Bonze had replied 
 that this might be attained whenever a fountain should be con- 
 structed whose waters should never cease to flow upon the figure 
 
128 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xxm. 
 
 of a dragon. Those who gave me this information, deeming it 
 wrong to encourage such heathen superstition, had unanimously 
 declared that they were unable to execute the work. I had 
 inquired of the courtiers, who issued the order, what might be 
 the object of the Emperor, but they replied that it was merely 
 for his own amusement. Nevertheless, being well satisfied of 
 his superstitious intention, I deemed it my duty to prevent Fa- 
 ther Angelo from undertaking the work, especially as by means 
 of polite excuses and suitable representations he could avoid it 
 without giving offence. Accordingly I communicated my opi- 
 nion to Father Angelo, and found much difficulty in inducing 
 him to adopt it. 
 
 Soon after this dangerous and delicate business had been so 
 well arranged, that even in the Palace the fountain was no longer 
 mentioned, the Disposer of all things exposed me to further 
 trials. The Emperor commanded that Father Angelo should be 
 required to state whether he was able to assist in the manufac- 
 ture of bells in bronze, of which he sent him the models. From 
 the peculiar shape of these bells, and from the inscriptions 
 upon them, it appeared they were destined for the worship and 
 temples of idols ; and some courtiers moreover told me that the 
 Emperor intended to place them, together with a mass of bows 
 and arrows, in the belly of an enormous idol which he had 
 erected in a spacious temple situated near the palace. I was, 
 therefore, satisfied that Father Angelo could not undertake such 
 a work without sharing in the sin of idolatry ; and before the 
 answer was returned, I cautioned him not to betray by his ges- 
 tures that he understood such things. Father Angelo listened to 
 what I had to say, but as be was well informed in mechanics, so 
 was he deficient in theology and philosophy, and accordingly 
 opposed my representations upon the subject, desiring me to state 
 that he understood what was required, and was ready to take 
 part in it. The courtiers perceiving that he was determined to 
 please the Emperor, and that I objected, severely reprimanded 
 me for thus placing myself in opposition to his Majesty's will 
 and pleasure. 
 
 Finding that I was now entirely exposed, I freely declared 
 that although Father Angelo might be capable of such a work, 
 he could not undei take it, because our religion prohibited any 
 
chap, xxiii.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 129 
 
 participation in the manufacture of things intended for the ser- 
 vice of idols. Hereupon they threatened to inform the Emperor 
 of my conduct : I replied, that being well acquainted with the 
 manners of the court, I knew what must then be my fate, and 
 was prepared to die rather than do that which was most strictly 
 forbidden by my religion. By this they perceived that I had 
 fully decided upon my line of conduct ; and, being well disposed 
 towards me, they agreed to report to his Majesty that Father 
 Angelo was unacquainted with such work. The latter, finding 
 himself disappointed, became greatly incensed, saying that 1 had 
 deprived him of the honour of being employed in the service of 
 his Majesty, and immediately went away to our residence at 
 Haetien, declaring that he would no longer live in the same 
 house with me, and that for the future he would have some other 
 interpreter. 
 
 Having again found myself in the critical alternative of either 
 consenting to further the interests of idolatry or causing much 
 prejudice to the mission, I determined upon returning to Naples ; 
 and this resolution was confirmed by a circumstance which hap- 
 pened a few days afterwards. In order to excite the Chinese 
 Christians to a more frequent fulfilment of their devotional du- 
 ties, I had obtained the privilege of consecrating small Agnuses 
 for the acquisition of indulgences ; and on Friday mornings I 
 performed a service in my chapel, during which I distributed 
 Agnuses to those who attended. Having been informed of this, 
 some of my opponents said, in the presence of several Chris- 
 tians, that I had no authority to consecrate Agnuses, and that I 
 imposed upon the credulity of my congregation. My friends 
 resented this attack upon my character, and a bitter dispute en- 
 sued, in consequence of which the contending parties came to 
 my house to ascertain the truth. I immediately produced the 
 diploma granting me the privilege, and satisfied them all 
 
 This fresh incident convinced me still more that my efTorts 
 were maliciously counteracted by my enemies, and scarcely pro- 
 duced anything but scandal and discord. Considering, there- 
 fore, how little I could effect in China for the propagation of 
 Christianity, and how repeatedly I was exposed to the danger 
 either of participating in idolatrous practices or of perishing, in 
 obedience to the Holy word,—" But when they persecute you in 
 
 K 
 
130 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, xxiii. 
 
 this city, flee ye into another," I resolved to return to Naples ; 
 not, however, with the intention of living in idleness, but with 
 a view of devoting all my time and energies to the promotion of 
 the great object of the Christian mission. 
 
 The project of quitting the post assigned to me by my supe- 
 riors had previously occurred to my mind, as stated above, and 
 had often been the subject of my prayers i nevertheless it was a 
 step of so serious a nature, that I dared not execute it on my 
 sole responsibility. Now, however, I placed myself under the 
 patronage of the holy apostle Saint Matthew, shut myself up, 
 and went through a course of religious exercises. After several 
 days of constant meditation and prayer, I felt so strengthened in 
 my purpose, that I finally resolved to depart. 
 
chap, xxiv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 181 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Permission to quit China — Farewell Presents — Departure from Peking- 
 Cheap Travelling — Variations of Climate — Arrival at Canton — Pecuniary 
 Difficulties — Supernatural Agency — Providential Occurrence. 
 
 No European had ever asked leave to quit the Emperor's ser- 
 vice, unless he happened to be disabled by some constitutional 
 complaint. During Kang-hy's reign it would have been impos- 
 sible for me, who was in perfect health, to obtain such a permis- 
 sion ; nor did it appear easy to procure it now from Young Chin. 
 Yet as he was still sorrowing for his father's death, and great in- 
 dulgence is generally shown in China to persons recently bereft 
 of their parents, I hoped to succeed by alleging a similar loss. 
 Accordingly, I applied to the Emperor's sixteenth brother, who 
 expressed himself well inclined in my favour, and advised me to 
 petition the Too-yoo-soo. This Board referred me to his Ma- 
 jesty's thirteenth brother, who had the charge of the collection 
 of clocks and watches, and was consequently my immediate su- 
 perior. The prince kept me a long time in suspense, with a 
 profusion of gracious smiles and words ; sometimes he even turned 
 aside as he passed, and pretended not to see me whilst I waited 
 for him on my knees. At length I discovered that, in spite of 
 all his promises, he was opposed to my departure ; and knowing 
 the magic power of gifts in China, I took all the Euroi>ean cu- 
 riosities I still had in my possession, and sent them to his resi- 
 dence. They were all accepted, which was a good omen ; and 
 soon after the joyful announcement was sent me that the Em- 
 peror, in consideration of the services I had rendered to his 
 father, had been pleased to grant my petition, ordering moreover 
 that I should receive some valuable farewell gifts of silk and 
 porcelain. 
 
 On the 13th of November the prince made me go with him to 
 the imperial wardrobe, and there bade me choose any article 
 that I liked. In obedience to his command, I fixed upon four 
 
 k2 
 
132 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xxiv. 
 
 porcelain vases and as many pieces of silk ; whereupon a contest 
 ensued, the prince insisting that I should take more, and I pro- 
 testing that I had enough, nor was he satisfied until I had ac- 
 cepted two hundred pieces of porcelain. After this I performed 
 the usual prostrations to return thanks, and quitted the Palace 
 for ever. On bidding me farewell, the prince particularly ad- 
 vised ine to choose a lucky day for my departure, a choice 
 which these heathens always make by means of superstitious 
 ceremonies ; and on my answering, to the great astonishment of 
 the bystanders, that all days were alike, he observed to them, 
 " You need not wonder at this, for the Europeans do not believe 
 that there are some days more propitious than others." 
 
 As the late Emperor Kang-hy had only seven years before 
 strictly forbidden that any one of his subjects should be allowed 
 to go out of China, I now saw no possibility of taking my pupils 
 away with me, and consequently resolved to leave them at Can- 
 ton under the care of a friend. Fortunately, however, the 
 Emperor's sixteenth brother, on hearing of my approaching de- 
 parture, sent me a rich present of silk stuffs, two saddle-horses, 
 and various articles of Chinese manufacture; and having sub- 
 mitted, when I went to thank him, that the exportation of horses 
 was prohibited, and that I wanted a special permission for the 
 purpose, he said, " Write a memorial, and state the number of 
 horses, men, and arms you wish to export, and it shall be 
 granted." In this spontaneous offer of such a permission, I 
 could not fail to perceive the agency of the Almighty, for the 
 purpose of enabling me to take my pupils to Europe. 
 
 After surmounting various obstacles, which need not be de- 
 tailed, on the 15th of November, 1723, I at last left that lJaby- 
 lon, Peking, with my four pupils and their Chinese master, 
 myself in one litter, the two youngest boys in another, the other 
 three and two servants on horseback. The wind blew so furi- 
 ously, that it upset our litters several times and it was intensely 
 cold. It seemed as if the Evil one, foreseeing the great good 
 which at some future time would arise from my little flock of 
 Chinese, had mustered all his forces to drive us back to that 
 capital of his dominions. 
 
 At the end of thirty-five days we arrived at Nan-chang-foo, 
 wnhout rain, snow, or any other inconvenience, so that with the 
 
chap, xxiv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 133 
 
 exception of the first day of my starting from Peking, the re- 
 mainder of my journey was safe and fortunate. For the two 
 litters and four horses, one of the servants having ridden one of 
 mine, I paid sixty-one taels, which is equivalent to about eighteen 
 pounds. In the province of Peking, where provisions are much 
 dearer than in others, I generally paid for our dinner six or 
 seven fens, and the same for" our supper and lodgings, which is 
 less than sixpence per day ; we however carried our own beds, 
 for the inns in China do not supply them. As we advanced 
 southward the prices diminished, till the whole daily expense 
 amounted to not more than five fens a head. The dinner con- 
 sisted of a vegetable soup, two different sorts of meat, and as 
 much rice as we could eat ; wine and fruit, not being included in 
 the fare, were paid extra. 
 
 We then hired a boat, which for less than two pounds took 
 us to Nan-gan-foo, in eleven days. On arriving at the Mei- 
 ling Pass we were welcomed by a wonderful sight. When we 
 left Peking, owing to the excessive cold, no verdure of any kind 
 was to be perceived. In about a week we began to see a few 
 withered leaves still clinging to the trees, and now on reaching 
 the summit of the mountain we found the trees clothed with 
 luxuriant foliage. A few days after, we came to a country 
 where the harvest was at its height ; and on my arrival at Can- 
 ton, on the 10th of January, we found a perfect spring, so that 
 during a journey of fifty-six days we went through the four 
 seasons of the year, but in, an inverted order, because we were 
 travelling from north to south. 
 
 At Canton I rejoiced to find that there was an English vessel 
 still lying in the harbour, owing to a Custom-house officer having 
 seized a valuable clock, which he would neither restore nor pay 
 for. I lost no time in endeavouring to secure a passage to 
 Europe ; but I was told by several friends that it was not to be 
 had for any sum of money, and that I must give up the idea of 
 returning that year. Stimulated by an ardent desire to lay the 
 foundation of my college, I made further inquiries for myself 
 and four only of the Chinese, intending to leave Lucio, who 
 was very weak in body and mind, and rather badly disposed. 
 Thanks to a combination of favourable circumstances, I suc- 
 ceeded in obtaining the places I wanted for about one hundred 
 
134 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xxiv. 
 
 and fifty pounds sterling. This important point being thus 
 settled, it was now necessary to pay the stipulated sum, and I 
 had no small difficulty in finding it. 
 
 I had a credit on the agent of the Propaganda for about three 
 hundred and fifty pounds, which I had lent him on various occasions 
 to supply the wants of the missionaries in China ; and although 
 he had a sufficient sum at his command, he would not consent 
 to pay me, alleging that the general exigencies of the service 
 must take precedence of individual cases. In vain did I repre- 
 sent that the money I was thus claiming had not been earned, 
 but lent, and that unless he returned a part at least, I should 
 find myself obliged to remain at Canton with my pupils ; but he 
 was not to be shaken in his resolution. My distress may easily 
 be conceived. But whilst my colleague thus faithlessly re- 
 warded me for my zeal. Divine Providence again came to my 
 assistance. A good Christian from Siam, being apprised of my 
 difficulties, brought me about one hundred and twenty pounds 
 quite unexpectedly, which he offered to lend me without any 
 security or interest, on the sole condition that I should request 
 the agent to repay them when convenient. Upon this I imme- 
 diately went to pay the captain, and thus everything was settled 
 for my own passage and that of four Chinese. 
 
 The news of the honours that had been conferred upon me in 
 Peking previous to my departure, had reached Canton by means 
 of the Gazette, and consequently I was extremely well received 
 by all the authorities of the province, especially the president 
 of the Customs. Owing to the same circumstance, 1 was also 
 treated with great consideration by the English, not only during 
 my sojourn in Canton, hut also at sea and on my arrival in 
 London. 
 
 So many and various were the things which engrossed my 
 attention, that on the following morning when I went to cele- 
 brate mass I was unusually agitated. I had scarcely begun, 
 "In nomine Patris et Filii," when methought I distinctly heard 
 these words, — " Have I given him to thee, that thou shouldst 
 forsake him ? Do thy best to take him ; and if thou failest, then 
 leave him." I instantly understood that they related to Lucio, 
 though he was not named. Twenty-one years have now elapsed, 
 but this mysterious occurrence remains clearly impressed on my 
 
chap, xxiv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 135 
 
 memory. Thus convinced of my error in not having exerted 
 myself to procure a passage for Lucio, 1 resolved to try my 
 utmost endeavours to that effect. After mass, however, 1 was 
 again absorbed in multifarious duties, and my resolution, as 
 well as the extraordinary words I had heard, were entirely for- 
 gotten. 
 
 The next day when I said mass, and was again reciting that 
 part of the service already mentioned, I heard the same voice 
 repeating the words, M Have I given him to thee," &c, and this 
 time I was deeply struck with awe. I must here mention, that 
 I never allowed myself to be disturbed or deceived by such 
 occurrences as this, always confiding in a better guide, and em- 
 ploying the aids of reason ; but these words now acted upon me 
 so powerfully, that on the same day I went to the captain to see 
 upon what conditions he might be induced to take Lucio. I met 
 him in the street, and had scarcely time to say that I wished to 
 ask a favour of him, when the chief supercargo came up and 
 informed me that he stood in need of my assistance. He then 
 related to me the circumstance mentioned above, of a clock valued 
 at four hundred pounds, and belonging to the Company, which 
 the president of the Customs had seized, and would neither 
 restore nor pay for. The supercargo was aware that the president 
 had treated me with the most marked respect, and accordingly 
 concluded that I might persuade him either to return the clock 
 or pay its value. I satisfied the supercargo by my answer, that 
 I was quite ready to serve him, and if necessary would delay 
 my embarkation, which was fixed for the following day. He re- 
 turned me many thanks, and directed the captain to convey my 
 luggage on board immediately, together with my Chinese pas- 
 sengers, and to take the same care of all my things as if they 
 were the property of the Company ; and upon this he went away. 
 I was now left with the captain,' and by means of the interpreter 
 begged of him to take Lucio, assuring him that he should be 
 fully satisfied with respect to the expenses. 
 
 In answer to this, I expected nothing less than a decided re- 
 fusal or some exorbitant demand ; but the captain, who had been 
 present while the supercargo requested ray assistance, imme- 
 diately replied, that I was welcome to bring Lucio, even though 
 the expenses had not been mentioned. I thanked him for his 
 
136 "FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xxiv. 
 
 kindness, and afterwards took an opportunity of making him 
 some return for it. When I got home, my friends were greatly 
 surprised to hear what had happened. 
 
 I lost no rime in dispatching a message to the mandarin of the 
 Customs, advising him to restore the clock or pay its value. 
 The answer to this message was au invitation to supper. I ac- 
 cordingly went, aud when the business was mentioned, he said 
 that it had been a mistake on the part of Ids steward, and ordered 
 if to be returned. Great was the joy of the English, who in 
 consequence of this treated me with great consideration during 
 the whole voyage. 
 
chap, xxv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 137 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Setting Sail for England — Chinese in Trouble — Staying a Storm — Again — 
 Chinese Modesty— Mr. Edmund Godfrey— A Substitute for the Compass— 
 Anouymous Liberality. 
 
 On the 23rd of January, 1724, I at last embarked for London 
 with the five Chinese, and a month after we crossed the Line. 
 Up to this time the Chinese were permitted the use of the cap- 
 tain's cabin, and had they been allowed to continue in it, the 
 voyage would have been most agreeable. But the powers of 
 darkness were highly incensed that a vessel belonging to their 
 own dominions should convey the first elements of an institution 
 which was destined to prove so prejudicial to their interests. 
 Accordingly they contrived to cover the hands and face of 
 one of the Chinese with a saline humour, which increased to 
 such a degree, that in a few days the poor youth became a most 
 loathsome object. The surgeon, who was a German heretic, and 
 a most determined enemy to our religion, declared that the com- 
 plaint was leprosy, and that it might prove contagious. At the 
 same time it also happened that Lucio U, who was about thirteen 
 years of age, and rather weak in intellect, made himself obnoxi- 
 ous by dirtying the cabin, where he slept with his companions. 
 The English lived, ate, and drank in this same place, and 
 their ideas of cleanliness were greatly offended ; and the captain 
 determined to exclude the Chinese from his cabin. 
 
 The ship being very heavily laden, there remained no other 
 place where my pupils could be sheltered from the weather ; and 
 when their clothes got wet, they were obliged to wear them till 
 the sun or the natural heat of their bodies had dried them. It 
 was fortunate that we had lost sight of the Chinese coast before 
 these events took place ; for the English swore that they would 
 otherwise have put them all on shore again. I need not say to 
 how many hardships the poor Chinese were exposed during a 
 
138 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xxv. 
 
 voyage of more than four months. I was in continual expecta- 
 tion of seeing them all perish; and this painful anxiety was not 
 a little aggravated by the brutal conduct of the surgeon. This 
 malignant heretic, upon seeing the boy above mentioned in so 
 deplorable a condition, seriously told me several times that he 
 had thoughts of giving him a powerful dose that would carry 
 him off, and I had no small difficulty in dissuading him from so 
 villainous an action. When he afterwards saw them all suffer- 
 ing from wet, he turned to me and said, " Signor Ripa, we must 
 throw them overboard one after the other, for it is impossible to 
 keep them alive till the end of the journey." 
 
 The patience with which these five Chinese underwent all 
 their hardships was almost incredible. Not one of them be- 
 trayed the least angry feeling, or expressed any regret at having 
 undertaken the voyage. They were always cheerful and con- 
 tented ; but I was especially edified by their master. He was a 
 man about thirty years old, who had left behind him a mother 
 and a wife, with four children ; I had baptized him only a few 
 months before I had left Peking, and though from so recent a 
 convert no one could have expected much, yet when I exhorted 
 him to be patient, he would with a smiling countenance beg me 
 not to give myself any trouble about the matter, as it did not 
 trouble him, and he knew that all this happened by the will of 
 God. 
 
 On the night of the 10th of April we had a tremendous storm. 
 From the roaring of the sea and the winds, it seemed as though 
 the vessel would be dashed into a thousand pieces, at every mo- 
 ment. This was the first time in my life that I had seen a sea- 
 storm in all its terrific fury. Thanks to Heaven it did not last 
 more than an hour ; after this the wind abated, and was suc- 
 ceeded by a heavy rain, which continued to fall without inter- 
 mission, till the whole crew was reduced to the greatest distress. 
 Not only were their clothes completely soaked, but the water 
 penetrated their chests and the cabins of the officers, and injured 
 a part of the cargo. I was more dead than alive, being afflicted 
 as usual with the sea-sickness, and feeling deeply for the forlorn 
 situation of my poor Chinese, who were drenched with rain and 
 benumbed with cold. Having desired them to join with me, we 
 prayed to God for some time, and in the fulness of my faith I 
 
chap, xxv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 139 
 
 threw an Agnu* of his Holiness Innocent XI. into the raging 
 sea, and it was truly wonderful how the furious winds became 
 gentle zephyrs, the sea calm and quiet, and the air so mild that 
 we seemed to be in the midst of the most delightful spring. One 
 of the heretical pilots, who understood the Portuguese language, 
 told mo, that when he and the other sailors, who were well 
 acquainted with these seas, beheld such an extraordinary change 
 in the weather as had never been read or heard of, they one and 
 all exclaimed that the course of nature had changed, or else 
 that a miracle had been wrought, and he repeated several times 
 that he had witnessed a miracle which was the work of God. 
 This, fiom the mouth of a heretic, confirmed me in my belief 
 that so much grace had been vouchsafed for the preservation of 
 the Chinese, who had prayed to that effect, through the inter- 
 cession of our Holy Father. 
 
 On the 7th of May the sky darkened, and the wind set in from 
 the north-west, threatening a terrible storm. Being joined by 
 the Chinese, we again had recourse to our usual remedy, namely, 
 prayer ; and we agTiin threw into the sea an Agnus of Innocent 
 XL The tempest died away, but, the wind mixed with rain 
 continued to blow with great violence, the ship remaining 
 stationary with her rudder tied up. It is usual for the wind 
 to continue during thirty or forty days ; and the ship's water 
 being only sufficient for thirty days, it. appeared dangerous to 
 continue in this position till the wind changed. A council was 
 therefore held among the officers, who decided upon staying one 
 week longer where we then were, and if the wind should not 
 become favourable, to sail back again and winter in the island 
 of Mascaregna. It was really a gloomy sight to see the officers, 
 those particularly who had supported this ill-judged resolution, 
 sitting pale and mute in my cabin, and from time to time heav- 
 ing deep sighs. What filled them with dismay was the know- 
 ledge that at that time a large pirate ship was cruising on the 
 coasts of that island, bearing a black flag with a death's head 
 on it, intimating that no quarter was given. Under these 
 unhappy circumstances, I informed the Chinese that we must 
 again implore the intervention of God. When we had done so, 
 not only did the wind subside, but on the following morning it 
 became so favourable that we resumed our course. 
 
140 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap.xxv. 
 
 On our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope I was desirous, for 
 the sake of rest as well as economy, not to lodge in the same 
 house with the captain and the other English gentlemen, but 
 they would not allow me on any account. The Chinese, whom 
 I had taken ashore for the purpose of refreshing them from their 
 sufferings, soon begged me to return aboard, not being able to 
 endure the behaviour of the English. They were indeed teased 
 in every way. I recollect that once having heard a confu- 
 sion of voices, among which I could distinguish that of John 
 In, I went up to see what it might be. Upon entering the 
 room, where many English and Dutchmen were assembled, I 
 found that one of them, for the amusement of the company, 
 had been pushing the landlord's daughter against the youth, who, 
 weeping and trembling with dread from such temptation, had at 
 last crept under the bed. 
 
 Upon my arrival they ceased tormenting the poor lad, but he 
 still continued weeping and trembling, and I had much trouble 
 in persuading him to remain on shore for a short time with the 
 others. He earnestly entreated that I would instantly return 
 with him to the ship, saying that such gross and dissolute man- 
 ners were too much for his feelings. 
 
 As I was well aware that before our arrival in Naples I should 
 have to incur great expenses, having some good Chinese clothes. 
 I was determined to wear them while passing through the 
 countries of the heretics. On board ship I always wore my 
 Chinese dress, and being once asked what sort of habiliments I 
 intended to put on when I arrived in London, where I must 
 appear before the Company, and perhaps at Court? I replied 
 that, having no other layman's dress, I must of necessity con- 
 tinue to wear my Chinese costume. Upon this the supercargo, 
 a heretic, named Edmund Godfrey, without my knowledge, had 
 a complete suit made for me, and insisted on my accepting it as 
 a present. The buttons alone had cost him about two pounds 
 at the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 When we reached the latitude of St. Helena, where all the 
 East India Company's ships had strict orders to touch, we 
 sailed for several days without being able to discover the island. 
 As the season was far advanced, the officers at last resolved that 
 unless it could be found within twenty-four hours, we must sail 
 
chap, xxv.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 141 
 
 direct for England ; but they eutertained great fears of incurring 
 the displeasure of their employers. Upon this I immediately 
 told the Chinese that at sunrise on the following day, which 
 was that of St. Anthony of Padua, I expected them to join me 
 in prayer in order to implore the patronage of this great saint. 
 They did so ; and our fervent supplica ions were not even ended, 
 when, to the great joy of all on board, the much-desired coast 
 appeared in sight. 
 
 During a sojourn of six days at St. Helena, there being no 
 inns in the island, we lived in the house of one of the officers, 
 together with, the captain aim tne supercargoes, where we had 
 excellent fare and accommodation. At the end of our stay I 
 expected to have a good sum to pay ; but on inquiring of our 
 host what I owed him for myself and the Chinese, to my great 
 surprise he answered, that tne account nad been settled ; and 
 however I might press him to tell me the name of our secret 
 benefactor, he never would comply with my request. Flow 
 mortified I felt at receiving this anonymous charity it is not 
 difficult to conceive ; but no one can imagine the consolation I 
 experienced on seeing that Divine Providence should so merci- 
 fully attend to our wants as to inspire a heretic to pay a sum for 
 us which could not have amounted to less than thirty pounds. 
 Having reasons to suspect that this was an act of Mr Edmund 
 Godfrey's, I called upon him for the purpose of returning thanks, 
 but he would not even allow me to mention the subject. 
 
142 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xxvi. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Casting Anchor at Deal— Importunity of Boatmen -Rapacity of Custom- 
 House Officers— National Mouuments -Liberality of King George I. — Of 
 the East India Company's Directors— Of Mr. Edmund Godfrey— Sailing 
 for Leghorn. 
 
 On the 5th of September we at length had the happiness-of per- 
 ceiving the coast of England, and on the 7th we cast anchor at 
 Deal. With a favourable wind the voyage from that place to 
 London can be performed in three days, but owing to the un- 
 certainty of the weather it generally takes a fortnight. On 
 the other hand, by landing at Deal, and proceeding by the 
 mail, which runs daily, one reaches London in less than forty 
 hours, and the fare is only twenty-six shillings. Upon this 
 consideration I resolved to quit the ship, in order to go and 
 make such arrangements with the Directors of the East India 
 Company as might prevent our property from being seized and 
 sold by auction, according to their regulations. 
 
 Meanwhile the custom-house officers came on board to watch 
 
 that nothing was disembarked ; and I was then induced to alter 
 
 my plan, agreeing to pay four pounds sterling to the boatmen 
 
 who had brought them, on thecendition that they should convey 
 
 us to London within two days. As however they did not get 
 
 ready by the time they had fixed for departure, 1 determined to 
 
 start by the mail. On this occasion I met with an adventure 
 
 which excited the merriment of the spectators. The boat in 
 
 which I was conveyed ashore could not come up close to the 
 
 beach, owing to the shallowness of the water, and one of the 
 
 sailors undertook to carry me on his back. The distance he 
 
 had to go was about twenty yards, but vhen scarcely half-way 
 
 he began to totter, and call to his friends for assistance; and 
 
 before they arrived he dropped me into the water up to my 
 
 k To sooner had we landed than we were annoyed by the 
 
chap, xxvi.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 143 
 
 sailors with whom we had promised to proceed. They pretended 
 that we should either keep our engagement or indemnify them, 
 and threatened to prosecute us. So loud were their vocifera- 
 tions, that in a few moments a great crowd gathered around us. 
 Unable to speak English, or even to understand what they said, 
 to our great confusion we were obliged to suffer their importunity 
 till very late in the evening, when, thanks to Heaven, there came 
 a gentleman, who, taking compassion on us, reproved them 
 bitterly and sent them to bed. 
 
 Whilst thus molested by these sailors, we were summoned to 
 take our luggage to the custom-house that it might be examined. 
 In the mean time the man who had brought us this order began 
 to watch us very attentively lest we should smuggle any thing 
 out of our bag. The fellow spoke with such kindness and 
 benevolence as to make us suppose that he was a Catholic in his 
 heart. Our luggage consisted of a change of clothes, a writing- 
 case, in which were several packets of letters, the geographical 
 map of China, which I myself had engraved, and sundry other 
 things of very little value. All this was searched with a rigour 
 which can scarcely be conceived ; but as there was no prohibited 
 article to extort a fee, they seized my Chinese dress, on pretence 
 that it was silk from China. They then laid hold of my geo- 
 graphical map, of which I recommended them to take great care, 
 saying that the King, to whom I intended to present it, would 
 send for it soon. Not yet satisfied with this, they also wished 
 to intercept my letters, alleging that they must be sent through 
 the post-office. Upon this I locked my desk, and gave it to 
 them, saying that I would send for it when I arrived in London ; 
 but they would not take charge of it, and insisted on my sending 
 the letters by post. As I would not consent to this, they kept 
 us in custody, whilst the officer above-mentioned, pretending to 
 advise me as a friend, recommended me to put an end to the 
 difference by making a sacrifice of four pounds, as else we should 
 never get out of the custom-house. This dispute was carried on 
 till midnight, when another officer came out of an inner room, 
 and, blaming both parties, ordered them to be satisfied with half- 
 a-crown, which I immediately paid. 
 
 At Deal we entered into an agreement with the post-master, 
 to pay twenty-seven shillings and sixpence each, to be paid 
 
144 FATHER RIPAS RESIDENCE [chap. xxvi. 
 
 half there and half in London. We set out at noon, toge- 
 ther with a colonel and the wife of a merchant, the women of 
 England being indulged with such freedom owing to the entire 
 absence of restraint which prevails in their island. 
 
 Great, doubtless, were the favours which Divine Providence 
 granted us throughout our voyage from Peking to London, yet 
 those we received during our stay in England were still greater. 
 To describe them minutely would take volumes ; suffice it to 
 say, that these Protestants, among whom we were apprehensive 
 of losing the property we brought from China, showered favours 
 of every kind upon us. 
 
 It is customary in the vast city of London to publish, twice 
 a-week, all remarkable things which happen within its limits : 
 accordingly, soon after we landed, the public were informed that 
 Father Ripa had brought five boys from China, for the pur- 
 pose of educating them at Naples, and sending them back to 
 preach the Holy Gospel in their native country. This was then 
 mentioned before the King of England, George I., one day when 
 conversing with several great lords of his court and foreigners of 
 distinction. His Majesty expressed a wish to see us ; and the 
 Sardinian ambassador, thinking that I was a Piedmontese, offered 
 to present us. 
 
 We had been but a few days in London, when, one evening, on 
 returning to our inn, 1 was informed that the ambassador had 
 been to visit me. Being much surprised at this unexpected ho- 
 nour, I did not fail to pay my respects to him ; on which occa- 
 sion he signified to me that the King desired to see us. Accord- 
 ingly, a few days after, we all six repaired to the palace, where 
 his Majesty, in the presence of the royal family and the lords of 
 his court, conversed with us for about three hours, and appeared 
 so much interested that a certain great Protestant bishop who 
 was present complained to some of the nobility. At length the 
 King, becoming fatigued with the long audience, commanded 
 tliat the Chinese should dine at the table which was laid daily 
 for the lords of his court, and that I should dine with the 
 Duchess of Arlington, his relation. This was so ordered by his 
 Majesty because that lady had begged permission to entertain us 
 all. It pleased the King to honour us still further in various 
 ways which it is not necessary for me here to describe ; but I will 
 
chap, xxvi.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 145 
 
 not omit to state that, after all the property which we brought 
 from China had been examined by the proper officers of the 
 customs, it was transferred, by his Majesty's order, and free of 
 all expense, to the ship that was to carry us to Italy. 
 
 With respect to certain other duties payable to the East India 
 Company, the directors not only remitted them, but invited me 
 to their public meeting, and showed themselves ready to assist 
 me in any way. They even asked me to dine with them, and 
 sent some soldiers to escort our goods to the ship. Thus all our 
 property left England without incurring any expense or suffer- 
 ing the least damage. Had we been obliged to pay the duty, 
 it would have amounted to more than one hundred pounds. 
 
 At the last audience of the King, which was in the presence 
 of the Duchess of Arlington, and lasted from nine o'clock in the 
 evening until midnight, his Majesty made me accept a present of 
 fifty pounds sterling. 
 
 Upon my return to London, after sixteen years' absence, I 
 found it much improved ; numbers of new buildings had been 
 erected, and the old ones generally repaired. The church of 
 St. Paul's, raised by these heretics to rival the cathedral of St. 
 Peter's at Rome, was now finished ; and many Englishmen, 
 who had never been at Rome, were persuaded that it had no 
 equal in the world. It must, indeed, be admitted that, exter- 
 nally, it displays a fine style, and is altogether of superb magni- 
 ficence ; but, within, the proportions are worse than those of any 
 other church that I remember to have seen. The body of the 
 building is long and narrow, with a very lofty dome, painted in 
 chiar-oscuro, and the whole is encrusted with stucco, without 
 any marble embellishments. At a public audience, which the 
 King- gave in the presence of many of the nobility and ambas- 
 sadors, he asked me which of the two churches I considered the 
 finest building, St. Peter's or St. Paul's of London ? 1 answered 
 frankly, that, excepting the grand colonnade in front of St. 
 Peter's, the exterior of St. Paul's was certainly finer than that 
 of the other church ; but that the interior of St. Paul's could 
 bear no comparison with that of St. Peter's, which was infinitely 
 superior to it in architecture, as well as in the statues and pic- 
 tures with which it was enriched : whereas St. Paul's had nei* 
 ther statues nor pictures, and was besides constructed in very 
 
 L 
 
UG FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap. xxvi. 
 
 bad proportions. Upon this the King, who had resided in Rome 
 for some time, turned to some lords of his court, and supposing 
 that I did not understand, said in French, " This is exactly the 
 opinion of all foreigners upon the subject." 
 
 •After having shown this newly-erected church to the Chinese, 
 I took them to see the Royal Hospital for Seamen. This edifice 
 is indeed well worth seeing, for its great extent, the excellence 
 of its architecture, and the pictures in the interior, which Sir 
 James Tornel [Thornhill] was then painting. The Royal Pa- 
 lace has nothing splendid in its appearance ; but, if one may 
 judge from some parts of it which are still extant, it must have 
 been magnificent — for, having been partly consumed by fire in 
 times past, it has never been completely restored. We went to 
 see a church which, though built in the Gothic style, is yet one 
 of the most remarkable in London, both for its architecture and 
 the vast number of monuments it contains. We also went to 
 see another church, at Windsor, which is equally admired. 
 But, as whatever is worthy of note in this capital has been de- 
 scribed by writers far better qualified for the task, I refer the 
 reader to them, deeming this short notice sufficient for my pre- 
 sent purpose. 
 
 On the 5th of October we set sail from London for Leghorn, 
 where we arrived safely on the 1st of November. Mr. Edmund, 
 the gentleman whom I have had occasion to mention several 
 times, had requested me to take charge of a letter for a certain 
 merchant, without giving me any intimation of its contents: 
 having now delivered it, I found, to my great astonishment, that 
 it contained a letter of credit to be filled up for any sum of 
 money that I might choose to demand. I was greatly surprised 
 to find so much kindness and charity in persons who had been 
 brought up in open hostility to our holy faith. However, as I 
 was not in need of more money, having still the sum that the 
 King of England had given me, I deemed it proper to decline 
 this favour. But as Mr. Edmund had so strongly recommended 
 me, the merchant above mentioned sent me a cask of wine and a 
 case of sweetmeats for our use during the voyage to Naples. 
 
chap, xxvn.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 147 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 Arrival at Naples — St. January's Blood — Permission to establish the Chinese 
 College — Reception of two Chinese Students. 
 
 Upon my arrival at Naples I received the intelligence that the 
 Sacred Congregation of the Propaganda were displeased at my 
 having quitted my post without their permission ; and objected 
 to keeping the five Chinese, saying that their finances could not 
 even cover their present expenses. I had not proceeded direct 
 from Leghorn to Rome, because I knew that they were desirous 
 of having some young Chinese in their own College, and was 
 afraid they might compel me to leave them mine. I was there- 
 fore glad to hear that I had no occasion to fear any such occur- 
 rence; and having been summoned into the presence of the 
 Pope, Benedict XIII., I submitted to him the plan of the reli- 
 gious community which I had in contemplation. On hearing 
 tliat I undertook to find the necessary funds without the assist- 
 ance of the Propaganda, his Holiness immediately gave his ap- 
 probation, and referred my petition to the proper channels, that 
 it might go through the usual forms. But as I proposed, for 
 various sufficient reasons, to establish my institution at Naples, 
 and not in Rome, the president of the Sacred Congregation and 
 several other cardinals strongly objected to this, on the ground 
 that I must not be permitted " to raise one altar against ano- 
 ther." After a great many negotiations, however, I was allowed 
 to begin at Naples, on the understanding that, in order not to 
 commit the Holy See, the formal approbation should be withheld 
 until my intended establishment had been set up on a proper 
 footing. His Holiness directed the Secretary of State to recom- 
 mend me to the Archbishop of Naples, as well as to the govern- 
 ment, and promised a contribution of a thousand pounds as soon 
 as his finances should permit. 
 
 In consequence of my unusual exertions of mind and body 
 during the three months that I was detained in Rome, my health 
 
 l 2 
 
148 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, xxvii. 
 
 had suffered so much that, on my return to Naples, I was in a 
 constant state of uneasiness and dejection. I now despaired of 
 being able to find the assistance I wanted for the execution of 
 my project, and began to regret that I had not accepted the 
 accommodation that had been offered me by the Propaganda for 
 my pupils and myself. Having ever been accustomed to see me 
 in cheerful spirits, the Chinese were much disturbed at my pre- 
 sent depression. One day they entered my room and complained 
 of my supposed intention to abandon them, after they had under- 
 gone so many sacrifices in order to follow me. I reassured them as 
 well as I could ; and, to confirm them more and more in the faith, 
 I took the earliest opportunity of accompanying them to worship 
 the blood of St. January. The saint, who probably was much 
 gratified at receiving the homage of persons who had come from 
 go great a distance to receive holy orders, and, on returning to 
 their idolatrous country, to shed their blood in the cause of 
 Christ, as he himself had done, was pleased to console them in a 
 very special manner. On reaching the Archiepiscopal Treasury, 
 where the miraculous blood is preserved in a state of solidity, 
 we were introduced by our friends into the presbytery, where we 
 knelt before the holy altar. After a little time spent in prayer, 
 the chaplain of the Treasury took the blood in his hands, and, to 
 our infinite satisfaction, allowed us to view, admire, and kiss it. 
 He even permitted us to take the little phials in our own hands 
 and to turn them about as we liked, which we did to onr extreme 
 spiritual comfort. On a sudden, while one of the Chinese held 
 the phials in his hands, and we were looking at the blood, still 
 solid in the upper part of the largest, it began to melt at the 
 bottom, and continued so doing until the whole of it became 
 liquid, when the chaplain began to chant the Te Deum. As 
 the Chinese were still iu their national dress, many of the crowd, 
 who had assembled to await the miracle, mistook them for Turks, 
 and immediately circulated the report throughout Naples that 
 some young Mahomedans, on seeing such a prodigy, had em- 
 braced Christianity. This event edified my pupils so much, that 
 a few days afterwards, when I proposed to show them some other 
 sight, one of them declined going, saying that, after having 
 been present at such a miracle, he did not care to see anything 
 else. 
 
chap, xxvn] AT THE COURT. OF PEKING. 149 
 
 My application for a licence to establish our community at 
 Naples was presented by the Nuncio to the Viceroy, Cardinal 
 Althan, upon the special recommendation of the Pope. It was 
 granted seven months afterwards, on the condition that none 
 should be admitted into the institution but native Chinese or 
 others who would take an oath to go as missionaries to China ; 
 and that the right of presentation should belong to the sovereign. 
 As these restrictions were incompatible with my plan, and as, 
 moreover, the Court of Rome objected to this assumption of the 
 patronage, I resolved to repair to Vienna, in the hope of obtain- 
 ing better conditions from the Emperor Charles VI. I was 
 honoured with the kindest reception, both by him and the Em- 
 press. Not only did he grant the exemption that I implored, 
 but moreover promised the assignment of eight hundred ducats 
 a year for my intended foundation, and a gratuitous passage in 
 the ships of the Ostend Company for all our students. 
 
 Unfortunately whilst I was so successful at Vienna fresh 
 obstacles were raised at Rome, where the Sacred Congregation 
 now claimed the right of examining the professors of the intended 
 institute before they were appointed. To this the Neapolitan 
 Government would not submit, and thus three years more were 
 wasted in troublesome negotiations. The three powers at length 
 came to an understanding, and in April, 1732, after seven long 
 years of anxiety and vexation, my efforts were crowned with the 
 happiest success. It was agreed that the new institution should 
 consist, as I had proposed, of a College and a Congregation. 
 
 The College to consist of young Chinese and Indians, to be 
 qualified for the missionary profession at the expense of the 
 foundation. 
 
 The Congregation to be composed of ecclesiastics, willing to 
 impart the necessary instruction to the collegians without any 
 pecuniary remuneration. 
 
 The collegians to make these five vows: — 1st. To live in 
 poverty ; 2nd. To obey their superiors ; 3rd. To enter holy 
 orders ; 4th. To join the missions in the East, according to the 
 disposition of the Propaganda ; 5th. To serve for life the Roman 
 Catholic Church, without ever entering any other community. 
 
 The members of the congregation to make no vow ; but, 
 besides attending to the education of the collegians, to live in 
 
150 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, xxvii. 
 
 community, and to perform the duties of the church belonging 
 to the institution. 
 
 Whilst I was employing every means to effect this important 
 arrangement, a great deal of my attention and time was also 
 required to surmount the obstacles which official chicanery con- 
 tinually raised against my receiving the sums granted by the 
 Pope and the Emperor. The purchase of a house of convenient 
 size and situation was also a task replete with difficulties; nor 
 were these surmounted until I, together with the five Chinese, 
 ottered up a special form of prayer to the Holy Virgin, during 
 nine consecutive days. All my troubles were however amply 
 rewarded on the 25th of July of the same year, when the open- 
 ing of our congregation and college took place with all the 
 solemnities and rejoicings suitable for the celebration of the 
 auspicious event. 
 
 Some time after the Sacred Congregation sent me two new 
 pupils. In order that the same forms may be observed on all 
 similar occasions, I will describe the ceremony of their recep- 
 tion. 
 
 On entering our hall they were embraced and welcomed by 
 all our community ; I then led them into the church, and kneel- 
 ing before the high altar, with one of them on each side, I 
 thanked the Lord for their safe arrival, and recommended them 
 to the Almighty, offering myself up for the service of them all, 
 and imploring his Divine Majesty to assist me in the fulfilment 
 of my duties. We next went round to the other altars, praying 
 before each in succession. After this they were conducted to 
 my room, where I washed and kissed their feet, my first consultor 
 holding the basin, and the second the towels. Finally their 
 name, surname, country, and age, were entered on the register. 
 
chap, xxvrn/j AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 151 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 Examination of two Chinese Students — Their Departure for China — Death 
 of John In — Flight of Lucio U. — His Arrest and Trial — His Evasion and 
 Recapture -Mysterious End. 
 
 Early in the year 1733 I informed the secretary of the Pro- 
 paganda that my two pupils, Baptist Ku and John In, would 
 soon terminate their studies, and that I consequently begged that 
 due arrangements should be made for their examination ; but for 
 several months no orders were issued. It so happened, that at 
 last the news of the expulsion of the European missionaries from 
 China came to quicken the zeal of the Congregation. Accord- 
 ingly, I was now desired to accompany them to Rome. When 
 the examination was over, to the utmost satisfaction of the 
 examiners, the Chinese took their oaths before the Sacred Con- 
 gregation. On this occasion Cardinal Petra, turning to John In, 
 said, he wished to make him a bishop, and the young priest 
 replied he would rather be a cardinal. As his Eminence looked 
 astonished at this answer, of which he had not immediately 
 understood the meaning, John In, taking hold of the cardinals 
 cloak, added, "When I say I would rather be a cardinal than 
 a bishop, I do not mean with such garments as those of your 
 Eminence, but with my own black ones dyed with my own 
 blood, shed for the sake of Christ." This reply was much ad- 
 mired by all the bystanders, and indeed by all Rome, throughout 
 which it soon spread. 
 
 After receiving the Pope's benediction, and several privileges 
 which his Holiness was pleased to grant them, they returned 
 with me to Naples. In order that their dress should present 
 some allusion to the martyrdom to which they aspired, they 
 were provided with cassocks bound with crimson, and they 
 departed on their mission accompanied by our most ardent 
 prayers. 
 
 This expedition excited deep interest throughout the country, 
 
152 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, xxviii. 
 
 and the Neapolitan Gazette thus expressed the general satisfac- 
 tion : " By the latest accounts from China we learn that the 
 Emperor continues to increase in severity against our holy reli- 
 gion, and not content with having banished thirty-five European 
 missionaries who had been exiled to Canton by his command, 
 he has ordered the strictest search to be made after the very few 
 remaining in Peking, who had concealed themselves. We are 
 also informed that two of these have already been discovered. 
 It is gratifying to know that at the very moment when this 
 vineyard of the Lord is thus deprived of its spiritual labourers, 
 two Chinese pupils of our new college, of the Sacred Family of 
 Jesus, have embarked for China as Apostolic missionaries. 
 Being Chinese, they will not so easily be discovered, and it is 
 to be hoped that they will succeed in effecting a vast deal of 
 good for the benefit of their native countrymen." 
 
 They arrived at Canton highly pleased with their voyage, and 
 soon after they left it for the place of their destination. The 
 letter, which gave a delightful account of their journey, was 
 signed by them both. On opening a small note enclosed in the 
 letter, I was thrown into the deepest affliction ; it was written 
 by John Ku alone, and bathed in his tears, and it announced 
 the death of our most beloved John In, which happened on the 
 15th of October, 1735. This intelligence pierced my heart. I 
 was afterwards informed that the death of our friend had been 
 caused by fright at one of those immense fish which in the wide 
 rivers of China occasionally spring up into the boats. He was 
 seized with fever, which carried him off in five days, and he 
 departed this life as a pious Christian, wholly absorbed in 
 thought of the happiness hereafter. 
 
 During my long absence from Naples, caused by the pro- 
 tracted negotiations above described, my heart had often bled at 
 the intelligence of the great irregularities with which some of 
 the- students were disgracing our rising community; but of all 
 the miseries which for my sins I was doomed to undergo, none 
 tortured my mind half so much as the following, which occurred 
 some time after the opening of the college. 
 
 The Chinese priest, Lucio U, after committing many other 
 transgressions, was now convicted of putting the lock of his 
 room out of repair in order to prevent its being opened by his 
 
chap. xxvni.T AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 153 
 
 superiors, and of pilfering nine shirts, five tunics, and six pair 
 of shoes, from other rooms by means of false keys. This was 
 culpable enough ; but what was still worse, he spoke discredit- 
 ably of our community, saying that we kept him starving and 
 in rags, and that the moment he could get a passport he would 
 run away. Having been apprised of his conduct, we ordered 
 him to be locked up in a private room ; but, a few hours after, 
 he disappeared, and every search to find him proved useless. 
 I was afterwards informed that he had taken refuge in a village 
 in the diocese of Monte Casino, where he acted as curate, though 
 he had only received orders on condition of his becoming a mis- 
 sionary. To prevent his continuing to lead a disorderly life, to 
 the detriment of our college and of his own reputation, I wrote 
 to the abbot of Monte Casino, to endeavour to secure, with 
 the utmost secrecy, the person of his fugitive, and to force him 
 to return to us, for which I promised to pay every expense that 
 might be incurred. Soon after, having received intelligence 
 that he had been taken into custody, I sent a member of our 
 congregation to fetch him. 
 
 Before three months had elapsed Lucio had again effected his 
 escape. He was seen in the church of the Trinita de Pellegrini, 
 at Rome, by my own brother, who, when washing the pilgrims' 
 feet, had to wash his also ; but, as he pretended to be absent 
 with my permission, and only for a short time, he excited no 
 suspicion. Being provided with a pilgrim's passport, he actually 
 spent the night in that church, but declined going to the Pope's 
 table on the pretext that he was dressed in plain clothes. He 
 was, however, stopped at Sinigaglia, with a forged certificate 
 of priesthood upon his person, which he pretended to have re- 
 ceived from the Archbishop of Naples. He then sent me a 
 letter, in which, acknowledging his faults, he promised to make 
 amends, and begged me to procure his release. I answered, that 
 indeed he deserved no pity. But he had been with me from his 
 infancy, during which time he had cost me an immense deal of 
 trouble and expense ; and, had I forsaken him, he would have 
 been lost. Moreover, it was a matter of no small difficulty and 
 expense to get these Chinese from such a distance. As the 
 father of this new foundation, remembering the parable of the 
 prodigal son, I determined to send for him, and to punish his 
 
154 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, xxviii. 
 
 transgressions, employing at the same time the salutary means 
 of spiritual exercises towards his amendment. Accordingly I 
 despatched one of our brethren with a letter for the Vicar-General 
 of Sinigaglia, directing him to forward it and await the answer 
 in Rome, which I authorised him to open, in order to save him 
 the trouble of going the whole journey in the event of the 
 prisoner being dead. 
 
 In order to bring Lucio to a sense of repentance through fear, 
 and at the same time to inspire him with courage, I also 
 directed my messenger to send him the following letter in his 
 name: — 
 
 " By the order of our Father Superior, 1 inform you that your 
 letter is come to hand. What had been foretold to you so many 
 times, both in public and in private, is now come to pass. 
 Owing to your excessive pride you would never believe it ; but 
 you feel it now that i Dominus tetigit me/ You ask for the testi- 
 monials of priestly orders to be saved from death, and, to comply 
 with your request, they are sent to the Vicar ; but they cannot 
 save you from the dungeon or the galley, being the penalty due 
 to your execrable forgery. You add that you are aware of hav- 
 ing done wrong, and that you hope for pardon from God, as he 
 forgives those who repent sincerely. But how can our Superior, 
 who cannot search into men's hearts, believe in the sincerity of 
 your professions, after you have deceived him so repeatedly ? 
 Nevertheless, hoping that the danger in which you are, and the 
 sufferings whicn you have undergone, may truly induce you to 
 reform — in order that he may not be wanting on his part, to 
 afford you all the assistance that a father can bestow on his 
 children, until by death you are hurled into the abyss, he has 
 not only used his interest with the Vicar to diminish the 
 punishment you deserve, but has actually offered to supply your 
 daily wants in this college, should his entreaties ever succeed 
 in obtaining your liberation. But this is very difficult to 
 obtain, as you well know you have transgressed five oaths and 
 vows approved of by the Holy See and every year renewed 
 by you in our church. If you intend to amend your con- 
 duct and submit to fulfil our regulations, do implore God to 
 assist you in the dangerous situation in which you are now 
 placed." 
 
chap, xxvni.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 155 
 
 Having received a favourable answer from the Vicar, Father 
 Andrada proceeded to Sinigaglia, where the prisoner was in- 
 trusted to his care, with a copy of the sentence, in which he was 
 strictly enjoined to return to the College, under pain of excom- 
 munication and suspension from divine service. Two days after 
 their departure from Sinigaglia, they arrived at Loreto, where 
 Lucio desired to confess. His request was complied with ; no 
 other person being present but the confessor, Lucio, and Father 
 Andrada. Lucio confessed with great devotion and humility, to 
 the great satisfaction of the confessor ; but the Evil Spirit had 
 taken possession of him, and whilst Father Andrada was confess- 
 ing, he ran away from the church. The sentence sent me by the 
 Vicar of Sinigaglia imported that Lucio had pleaded guilty to 
 the forgery of testimonials of priesthood and the licence of the 
 Archbishop of Naples, and of desertion and apostacy for the 
 second time from the congregation ; and had been condemned 
 by the ecclesiastical court to twelve months' imprisonment in 
 the Chinese college, with power to me, his Superior, to shorten 
 the term of his imprisonment. Lucio's name was now struck 
 out from the list of members of our community ; but, having 
 been informed that he was at Macerata, I requested the eccle- 
 siastical court of this town to issue a warrant against him, pro- 
 mising to pay out of my own pocket for his bread allowance, in 
 order to prevent any further scandal, and rescue him from per- 
 dition. A few weeks afterwards I was apprised of Lucio's im- 
 prisonment at Foligno, and I immediately laid the informal ion 
 before the Propaganda, in order that, juris or dine scrvato, they 
 might proceed against him, and at least to sentence him to 
 transportation as a convict to Civita-vecchia ; especially as I had 
 been assured that he was meditating on the means of escaping to 
 Geneva. On this occasion I sent to the Propaganda a detailed 
 history of the lamentable life of this incorrigible culprit. I was 
 anxious that the Sacred Congregation should provide for his safe 
 custody, that he might receive due punishment for his crimes, 
 and be prevented from escaping to Geneva or China, which 
 would have caused dreadiul calamities ; moreover, ending his 
 days among Christians, he might still have saved his poor soul, 
 redeemed with the blood of Christ. 
 
156 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE [chap, xxviii. 
 
 The vicar of Foligno informed Father Andrada that he was 
 under no apprehension about Lucio's custody, but he feared 
 that the unwholesomeness of the prison might bring on an illness 
 with him. and occasion an increase of expense, and that conse- 
 quently to spare his sufferings he had hired a bed at a penny 
 a-day, whereby his daily expense now amounted to fivepence. 
 In answer to this letter Father Andrada intimated, that with 
 respect to the state of the prison he should await the resolution 
 of the Congregation ; and as to the expense, he observed that 
 Lucio having been struck out of the list of members of our 
 community, I was only doing an act of charity towards him ; 
 that consequently he should receive nothing more than the 
 Court allowed to the other prisoners, and if they were allowed 
 a bed I would pay for it; but that otherwise I should not. 
 Some time after, the vicar of Foligno informed me that the pro- 
 secution against Lucio was concluded, and that the documents 
 had been transmitted to the Propaganda. To this he added, 
 that both he and the bishop were anxiously waiting for the result 
 of the decision of the Propaganda, and that, feeling for the poor 
 man, who had already been two months in prison, the Court 
 had allowed him a bed, as they considered it unbecoming for a 
 priest to sleep on a plank. Lucio complained bitterly of his not 
 being able to live on his scanty allowance, and begged for the 
 addition of at least a penny more per day ; but his application 
 had not been granted. 
 
 At length I received a letter from the secretary of the Pro- 
 paganda, informing me that his Holiness had issued orders for 
 Lucio to be conveyed to Rome, where measures would be taken 
 to prevent his running away for the future, and thus dispel any 
 fear that he might ever return to China to the prejudice of the 
 mission. 
 
 With this gloomy story terminates the Italian work of Father 
 Ripa ; but it is succeeded by a few pages from the Editor, pur- 
 porting that the reverend Father died on the 22nd of November, 
 1745, and that several persons, who in different cases of need 
 
conclusion.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 157 
 
 have since implored his intercession, have had their prayers 
 granted ! 
 
 As the English reader may perhaps feel an interest in know- 
 ing something more respecting Father Ripa's institution, the 
 translator has appended the following account from the German, 
 for which he is indebted to a friend. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 A Visit to the Chinese College at Naples founded by Father Ripa.* 
 
 Close to the Ponte della Sanita, to the north-west on a neigh- 
 bouring declivity, stands the Chinese College ; for this is the 
 name given to a religious institution in immediate connexion 
 with the Propaganda of Rome, which educates young Chinese as 
 teachers and missionaries for their native land. A high wall 
 surrounds this beautiful spot ; every one, however, is at liberty 
 to visit the church, and the priests belonging to the church per- 
 form public worship there. 
 
 "We went into the capacious hall, and found some men rolling 
 a huge barrel into the cellar : well, thought we, our friends the 
 missionaries do not appear to content themselves with bread and 
 three apples, like the monks in the Sanita. A servant pointed 
 out to us in the Refectory the portraits of Matteo Ripa, the 
 founder of the college, and of all the succeeding teachers of the 
 institution, as well as of several young Chinese, whose names 
 and the dates of whose existence were appended to the pictures. 
 After awhile the rector appeared, a tall, oily Neapolitan, with 
 mild manners — a magnificent head for a picture — who made 
 
 • Extracted from Dr. Karl August Mayer's ■ Neapel und die Neapolitaner* 
 (Naples and the Neapolitans). 
 
158 FATHER III PA'S RESIDENCE [conclusion. 
 
 many excuses for having kept us waiting so long. The conver- 
 sation then turned on Matteo Ripa. He was an Italian and a 
 missionary, who just about one hundred years ago preached 
 Christianity in China, where he had been appointed Court 
 painter. We heard the following anecdote touching the pic- 
 tures : — As soon as the young Chinese are sufficiently instructed 
 to understand thei** business tolerably, they return to China ; 
 and the portrait of each youth is then taken on his departure. 
 Should one happen to die in Naples, he is painted either before 
 or immediately after his death. Some of the faces from this 
 reason have death strongly marked upon them. The rector 
 showed us the inscription under one of these portraits, which 
 stated that the Chinese therein represented had lived for years in 
 the institution, and that he had thence travelled through all parts 
 of China as a missionary ; but on discovery of the nature of his 
 employment, he had been seized and banished to Tartary, where 
 he died. The rector next described to me the present condition 
 of the resident Christians in China, as being wretched iH the 
 extreme, the Emperor persecuting them cruelly ; he added, that 
 he entertained great fears for certain of his young scholars, who 
 had but lately left the institution to enter upon their labours in 
 China. 
 
 The number of pupils at present amounts to eight, of whom six 
 are Chinese, and the other two Greeks. The instruction is 
 given in Latin ; but the pupils have picked up Italian in their 
 intercourse with the servants. The rector himself does not 
 understand Chinese, and the new comers can only follow his 
 lessons after they have learned some Latin from their fellow- 
 countrymen. 
 V. We were then conducted into another room, and a few Chinese 
 made their appearance, clad in long priest's robes, and attended 
 by their tutor, who was only distinguished from them by wear- 
 ing a crimson girdle. They greeted us in the most friendly 
 manner, and plenty of time was given us to observe their ways, 
 and to talk with them in Italian. The colour of their faces is 
 yellow, but not disagreeably so, and their shining black hair lies 
 straight and smooth over their low foreheads: their small, 
 strange, half-closed eyes are jet black, and full of vivacity, and 
 are placed, turning upwards, towards the temples— the well- 
 
conclusion.] AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 159 
 
 known peculiarity of the Tartar race. The form of the face is 
 oval and flat, the nose fiat and short, so that they have scarcely 
 any profile. When they laugh, and this they do incessantly, 
 owing to their childish good humour, it is with a grin which 
 shows all their teeth. Their heavy, monotonous way of moving 
 suits well with their round, short, and diminutive bodies : in this 
 they contrast strangely with the Greeks and the Italian rector. 
 One might almost lay these Chinese down and roll them like 
 barrels. 
 
 They showed us a map of the Celestial Empire, as well as all 
 sorts of articles which they had brought from their own country, 
 such as a beautifully carved wooden bowl, in which they keep 
 their tea ; also a charming little model of the famous porcelain 
 tower at Nankin, and they gave us the necessary explanations 
 with very evident joy. We were obliged to tell our names, 
 which they then inscribed on rice paper in Italian and Chinese 
 characters, as a memento of our visit: for this purpose they used 
 a brush dipped in Indian ink. Our names, which sounded so 
 strangely to their ears, caused them great difficulty ; and they 
 were obliged to make up with letters somewhat akin in sound 
 for those which are wanting in tneir own language. 
 -^- One of them read some passages out of the New Testament 
 translated into Chinese, which sounded strangely enough, most 
 of the words being of one syllable. Another opened his mouth 
 awfully wide, and sang us a national song to a most barbarian 
 tune. 
 
 The Chinese with whom we made acquaintance were from the 
 vicinity of Peking. They remarked to us that the climate of their 
 own country, although situated in a more southern latitude than 
 Naples, was yet considerably colder: notwithstanding which, 
 they had all the fruits of southern Italy. 
 
 The rector then took us over the beautiful terrace of the house, 
 from whence we overlooked all the north-eastern portion of the 
 city. A charming orangery near us attracted our attention, and 
 we learned that it belonged to the institution, and served as a 
 garden for the pupils, who occasionally varied their walk by a 
 stroll through the city accompanied by their tutors. 
 
 We inquired of the ecclesiastic whether he was satisfied with 
 the progress his pupils made: their memory, he replied, was 
 
160 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE AT PEKING, [conclusion 
 
 exceedingly good, and one of them showed a pleasure in and 
 a great aptitude for the sciences. We then parted from the 
 good man, with many thanks : but he refused to accept a trifling 
 present which we had brought for the institution. 
 
 THE RND. 
 
 London : Printed by W. Clowes and Sons, Stamford Street. 
 

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