THE JAMES D. PHELAN CELTIC COLLECTION KILLABNBY T , C -:. - <**$&xw-- KILLARNEY LEGENDS; ARBANGED AS A GUIDE TO THE LAKES. EDITED BY T. CHOFTON CHOKER, ESQ. LONDON: HENRY G. BOHN, YORK STREET, COVENT GARDEN. 1853. ADVERTISEMENT. Two small Volumes, entitled " Legends of the Lakes, or Sayings and Doings at Killarney," form the basis of the present publication to which, as it is not exactly a reprint, the new and more obvious name of " Killarney Legends" is given. This volume is, in fact, a new edition of those above mentioned, in a more condensed and popular form ; such passages as appeared to possess merely a temporary or per- sonal interest have been omitted, some additions have been made, and the original work has been carefully revised. As three years had elapsed since the book was written, there naturally arose a question, whether the numerous individual portraits which were introduced should be retained or rejected ? But since " the lads of the Lakes" must naturally change, like the lights and colouring upon the majestic mountains which surround the lovely waters of Killarney it was determined to pre- serve the sketches of the guides and boatmen, which it was the Editor's fortune to find, as faithful prototypes of their fellows, and as the best medium of communicating to the reader he tales of wonder which are the unquestionable jiheritance of a scene of enchantment. 810289 iv ADVERITSEMENT. Gorham's Hotel, the mention of which occurs as frequently as a certain passage of Rossini's in La Donna del Lago, has passed into other hands ; but though the Gorham himself presides not, his Hotel supports its character, and in conclu- sion of this our Advertisement, we will quote Hagarty's " HIBERNIAN HOTEL LATE GORHAM's. " D. Hagarty takes leave most respectfully to announce, that he has taken the above Establishment, which he has opened under the most distinguished patronage, in a superior style of comfort and accommo- dation, and trusts that his own and his Wife's experience, together with the most unremitting attention and moderate charges, will ensure for him public support, as well as a continuance of the kind and distin- guished patronage with which he is now favoured. 44 His Wines will be found of superior excellence, as also his Posting and Livery Establishment." Killarney, April 7, 1831. A LETTER OF INTRODUCTION TO KILLARNEY. DEAR KILLARNEY, region there is None like you, so formed for fairies ; From the cliff where dwells the eagle, In his palace high and regal, To the depths thy blue waves under, Thou'rt a little world of wonder ! Every glen, of calm seclusion, Has its tale of dim delusion ; Every rock, and every mountain, Every bower, and every fountain, Has its own romantic story, Or its Legend old and hoary ; Thou'rt a land of dream and vision, Like no land, save the Elysian. Hope and fancy, in an attic, Can make all things look prismatic ; But amid the mountains round thee, That in strong enchantment bound thee, Hearts of lively thought and feeling Know a wild and strange revealing ; Mighty forms of mist and vapour Charge and wheel, curvet and caper ; O'er thy Lake, in furious courses, Gallop billowy white horses ; While the spray, in moonlight beaming, Seems the steel-clad warriors' gleaming ; VI INTRODUCTION. And the waterfall's hoarse foaming Voice unearthly gives the gloaming ; Shapes and sounds the mind will cherish, Till in morning's light they perish. Once again, on fancy's mission, To thy storehouse of tradition, Quicker far than thought I travel, All its secrets to unravel. I would dive into the mystery Of O'Donoghue's dark history ; And the tranquil home discover Of that maiden's airy lover, Whose heart-touching tale of sorrow Needs no aid from fancy borrow, (Worthy theme for gentle Landon.)* Breast more stern than holy Brandonf Must be his, who feels not pity At that maiden's plaintive ditty.J How I love thee, dear Killarney, With thy boatmen's endless blarney ; Monkish tales of Innisfallen, Put to flight by Master Callen,|| Back return in pleasant vision : Not that I hold in derision Pious fathers, who, with praying, Cloister'd walls grew grave and grey in ; From whose eye the soul was laughing, On whose nose was mark of quaffing. * Miss Landon is, perhaps, better known by her simple initials of L. E. L. t Of course the Saint, not the Reverend Lord, is meant. I See, or rather hear, Moore's song of O'Donoghue's mistress, in the ninth number of the Irish Melodies. || So written in "Cobbett's Reformation," Part II. for the name of the person to whom, in the 37th of Elizabeth, the Abbeys of Innisfallen and Mucruss were granted by the Crown. It should be Collam ; but Cobbett ' an authority. INTRODUCTION. VII They were fellows wise and merry, Who loved books, nor hated Sherry.* Then thy reeks, Mac Gilla Cuddy, In the sunset looking ruddy, How I long their heights to clamber, To find echo's secret chamber, Where, secure from noisy calling, Save when shivered crag is falling, Silence reigns sublime and lonely, Broken by the tempest only. O sweet Mucruss, how I love thee, From the hills that rise above thee ; * After the flattering manner in which J. S. L. has mentioned my came in the introduction and notes to his volume, entitled " the Harp of Innisfail," this passage will, I trust, sufficiently vindicate me in his eyes from " an illiberality and vulgar prejudice against the friars, which," he is pleased to add, " is disgraceful in a man of my character who ought not to descend to sacrifice truth to bigotry, or to caricature a body of men, that were generally blameless and useful, however much such pictures may agree with the ignorance, or pander to the prejudice, of some of his readers." p. 191. Now, although I plead guilty to having written in a careless, good- humoured, and what I considered to be a harmless vein, the fairy tale which has called forth these remarks, and which is reprinted in this Volume I must say, that had I been inclined to draw an offensive picture of monkish life, there were ample materials for doing so within my reach. But to set at rest this matter, which is so seriously charged against me, 1 appeal at once to the historian Giraldus Cambrensis, a contemporary witness, a Roman Catholic, and a connexion of a distin- guished dignitary of that church ; and after the perusal of his words, it will, I feel confident, be readily conceded to me, that, without any stretch of imagination, I might have gone much further in depicting the enjoyments which excited the fancy of honest Father Cuddy, on the evening previous to his wonderful nap. " Inter tot enim millia, vix unum invenies, qui post jugem tarn jeju- niorum quam orationum instantiam vino variisque potiouibus, diurnos labores, enormius quam deceret noctu non redimat. Diem itaque na- turalem tanquam ex sequo dividentes, lucidaque spiritui, tempora noc- turna, quoque carni dedicantes, sicut de luce lucis operibus indulgent, sic et in tenebris ad tenebrarum opera convertnntur. Unde et hoc pro miraculo duci potest, quod ubi vina domiuantur Venus non regnat. w Top. Hib. De Ckricis et Monasticia. And here I rest my case. VIII INTRODUCTION. I have seen thee, dark and darker, In the Lake a pointed marker ;* With thy woods and caves fantastic, And thy solemn walls monastic ; While from rock to rock the dashing Of the torrent's ceaseless plashing Made a rude and worldly riot, To oppose their blessed quiet. These are sights and sounds impressive, Which could make me grow digressive j But the limits of a letter Are a kind of mental fetter. Dear Killarney thy well-wisher And admirer, Mr. Fisher, For the pocket most compactly Has thy Legends framed exactly. Let me offer my petition On behalf of his Edition : Be a patronizing creature ; To thy guests 'twill serve as teacher ; For no doubt the merry summer Will bring many a new-comer, Who'll about, wish to be guided ; Just as once, you know, that I did, In the full and true conviction, That of pleasure, half is fiction. T. C. C. The Rosery, Barnes, Surrey, 1st May, 1831. The long and narrow peninsula of Mucruss stretches nearly aeroi the Lake. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. THE INN. WANT of a Legendary Guide Book Driver and Guard of the Killarney Mail Scenery on approaching Kil- larney Coltsman's Castle Courtayne's Folly En- trance to the town of Killarney Beggars Waiters from the Inns Gorham's Hotel Landlord described Dinner Boat ordered Guide Town of Killarney described Mountain Mahony His account of the building of Killarney of its Convent View from the Bridge over the Dinah Story of O'Donoghue's fetch The West Demesne and Knockrear Clough-na- Cuddy Scenery Verses to Killarney Legend of Clough-na-Cuddy Gandsey, Lord Headley's Piper, described Page 1 to 17 CHAPTER II. THE EMBARKATION. Breakfast Departure from the Inn Lord Kenmare's House and Park Sunday's well The big tree View from the Ross road Doolan O'Donoghue Legend of the Hurlers of Loch Lane Ross Castle Legend of O'Donoghue and the Soldiers The Embark- ation ' . . 18 to 28 CHAPTER III. THE EXCURSION. Paddy Blake's echo Wright's Guide Book O'Dono- ghue's Pigeon House O'Donoghue's Library Legend of O'Donoghue's enchantment O'Donoghue's Prison Its Legend Innisfallen Island Mouse Island Toomies O'Sullivan's Cascada Legend of O'Sul- livan's Punch-bowl Wood Nymphs Singular effect of light and shade on the Lake The Minister's back Stag and Arbutus Islands Legend of the Arbutus- Darby's Garden Its Legend Glena Bay and Cottage Progress to the Gun rock A Shot O'Donoghue'd X CONTENTS. Horse O'Donoghue's Broom Billy the Mule's versei Return to Jnnisfallen u Put down the pot at oes" 29 to 44 CHAPTER IV. THE ISLAND. Innisfallen Island described The Eye of the Needltf The Bed of Honour Brown or Rabbit Island Mr. Hallam and Sir Walter Scott Barret, the fisherman Purchase of a Salmon Cooking the Salmon Legend of Tig-na-Vauriah and Donaghadee Ban- queting room Another version of the Legend of Clough-na-Cuddy The old tomb of the ash-tree Legend of Phelim the Friar Moore's verses on leav- ing Innisfallen 45 to 69 CHAPTER V. THE ABBEY. A rainy morning Road to Mucruss Abbey described The Abbey Inscription on the Tomb of O'Donoghue More of the Glens Account of O'Donoghue Daniel, his father Yew-tree in the Cloisters Legend of Skeheen-a-Vibo, or the foundation of Mucruss Abbey Drake the Hermit Irrelagh, another name for Mu- cruss Legend of Father Thady Holen and the monks of Irrelagh A Funeral Verses on monkish life, by Mr. James 70 to 88 CHAPTER VI. THE WATERFALL. Ned Roche The Green Hills View from thence Ross mines Turner the Scotch Steward Sun-set Road to the Waterfall Mountain Stream The Waterfall Legend of Poul-an-Iffrin Return to Gorham's Hotel 89 to 97 CHAPTER VII. AGHADOE. Gorham on horseback Guides Dispute between Picket and Rooter Leahy Departure Hill of Bellevue Molly Boke's cross Aghadoe Adventure of Tim Marcks with the walking skull Story of the Ghost of CONTENTS. XI the Nut-cracker commenced The Deaf Pool Story of the Ghost of the Nut-cracker continued . 98 to 109 CHAPTER VIII. THE GAP. Grenagh The O'Connells Laun or Beaufort Bridge Old Woman Legend of Sgarrive a Kuilleen The Hermit of Killarney, a Ballad by the Right Honorable George Ogle Beaufort Its owners Dunloh Castle Gheran Tuel or Carran Tual The Purple Moun- tain Glena Mountain Echo Mountain Lake Legend of St. Patrick and the Serpent Song The Gap of Dunloh View of the Upper Lake . 110 to 123 CHAPTER IX. THE UPPER LAKE. Lord Brandon's The Boat in waiting Barret the fisherman The Upper Lake Ronayne's Island Weld's account of Ronayne Barret's version of the Story Islands The Giant's Coffin Meeting with Mr. Lynch, an old school-fellow Derrycunnihy The Rev. Arthur Hyde's Cottage Verses on Derry- cunnihy Waterfall The Heading Strap an' Gad Russ Bourky Its Legend 124 to 138 CHAPTER X. THE DESCENT. Passage between the Lakes Coleman's eye Names of the rocks the Eagle's Nest Its echoes Doolan's Song Legend of the Eagle's Nest Shoemaker's bill Paddy Clane's leap Begly Shooting the old Weir Bridge Arrival at Dinis Island Dinner . . 139 to 147 CHAPTER XI. THE MIDDLE LAKE. Nelly Thompson The Marquis of Lansdowne Scenery of Turk Lake The Carbuncle O'Donoghues's Wine Cellar Turk Cottage Bay of Dundag The Devil's Island Doolah Mucruss Brickeen Bridge Sir Walter Scott and Miss Edgeworth Mr. Moore His verses Works on Ross Island Return to Kil- larney 148 to 158 Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII. MANGERTON. Guides Leahy, Picket, and Mountain Mahony Ascent of the Mountain " A Kerry Dragoon" Criticism on Weld Devil's Punch-bowl View from Mangerton described Cowm na Coppul, or the glen of the horse Legend of Billy Thompson and his cow Hint for travellers about to ascend Mangerton . . 159 to 172 CHAPTER XIII. THE STAG HUNT. Doolan and the Waiter in Argument Killarney on the morning of a Stag-hunt Embarkation at Ross Mr. O'Connell's barge Arrival in Dinis Pool Passing the Rapids under old Weir Bridge Assemblage to see the hunt The Chase The Stag taken Irish oratory Return The Stag freed Innisfallen Glena by moonlight Legend of Aileen a roon Arrival at Ross -Anti-musical magistates Up street and down street ; the Barry and Leary factions .... 173 to 185 CHAPTER XIV. THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN. Gorham's Eagles Mr. Lynch's proposal Mrs. Falvey's freeholds Lord Kenmare's Park Mr. Cronin's Lake of Killbran Legend of Loch Bran, or the Lake of the burning Coal 186 to 198 CHAPTER XV. AHAHUNNIG. Spa of Tullig Tiernabowl The gallows tree The Mac Sweenys The Legend of the White Maiden of Tierna- bowl The Druid's Circle Legend of Donald Egee- lagh Lamp-light in Killarney Christening an island Miss Plummer's Island 199 to 210 CHAPTER XVI. LOCH KITTANE. View of the Lower Lake Lough Ardagh The road to Loch Kittane Loch Kittane Kippoch Legend hunt- ingVerses to Loch Kittane .... 211 to 217 CONTENTS. Xlll CHAPTER XVII. PHILADOWN. Definition of the word Glen Killaha Castle New and old lines of road The Doctor Exterior of a whiskey shop Hunted Excisemen Description of Glanflesk Waterfalls Philadown Labig Owen Account of Owen the outlaw The river Flesk Kindness of the Glensters The Invitation accepted . . 218 to 231 CHAPTER XVIII. A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. Description of Daniel O'Donoghue's cabin Arrival of the Company Dancers Legend of the Wizard of Dingle An Irish Nightcap .... 232 to 243 CHAPTER XIX. THE RETURN. The morning walk Wordsworth Mountain torrent of Crohane Breakfast in Daniel O'Donoghue's cabin Farewell to Glanflesk Killaha Castle Father O'Reilly The Inn Gandsey Irish Melodies and Whiskey Punch The Step of the Glens The Eagle's Whistle Lamentation for Myles O'Reilly, the slasher The Widow's Lamentation Verses by the Hon. Mrs. Norton to an Irish Melody Gandsey's Song on Killarney The death-cry, and account of a child's wake Legend of Tom Coghlan and the little Redcap Gorham's Album Gandsey's story of Paddy Kel- leher and his pig 244 to 275 CHAPTER XX. THE DEPARTURE. The weather fish of Killarney Church Arrival of the Tralee Mail Coach Preparations for starting Gor- ham's Album Contributions from W.J. Miss Bourke R. S. Sir Morgan O'Dogherty T. M. Departure The Coach stopped Mr. Lynch's packet Farewell to Killarney Acknowledgment of the Editor's obliga- tionsLetter from Mr. Lynch, commenting on the proof sent to him Directions for seeing the Lakes, in a ten days' trip from London Letter from Gandsey Conclusion 276 to 294 XIV TOPOGRAPHICAL INDEX. Aghadoe, 10, 99 Ahahunnig Glen, 187, 200 River, 2 Alexander's Rock, 43 Arbutus Island, 38, 128 Ardagh Lough, 213 Ardfert, 261 Ash Island, 43 Ballycasheen,2, 204, 281 Ballydowny, 10 Ballyheigh, 261 Beaufort, 111, 117 Bed of Honour, 46 Bellevue, 10, 30, 99 Blennerville, 261 Bran (Loch) vide Killbran Brandon, Hill, 261 Lord, his De- mesne. 123, 124, 162 Brewsterfield, 249 Brickeen Bridge, 41, 153 Island, 41, 149 Brown Island, 46 Cahir-con-righ, 261 Cahirnane, 43, 70, 71 Cannon and Cannon Balls, 140 Carran Tual, 118 Carrig a Fourt, 43, 49, 125 a Hocka, 43 Castle Isktnd road, 187 Lough, 43, 71 Cherry Island, 30 Claunteens, 182, 193 Cloghereen, 71, 160, 172 Clough-na-Cuddy, 13, 62 Clydagh River, 229 Coffin Point, 140 Coleman's Eye, 139 Coltsman's Castle, 3, 71, 199 Corrigraalvin, 100 Courtayne's Folly, 4 Cowm duve, 123 na Coppul, 162 Crohane, 217, 245 Cromiglaun, 19, 132 Dane's Fort, 71 Darby's Garden, 38 Derrycunnihy, 129 Waterfall, 130 Devil's Island, 149, 151 Punch Bowl, 18, 96, 161 Dinah River, 10, 188 Dingle, 238 Dingle Mountains, 91 Dinis Island, 146, 147, 149 Pool, 146, 176 Doolagh, 152 Drake's Bolster, 78 INDEX. XV Droumhall, 70 Droumhoomper Castle, 3 Droumirourk, 71 Druidical Circle, 187, 204 Dundag Bay, 149, 151 Dunloh Castle, 118 Gap, 118, 119 Eagle's Island, 128 Nest, 19, 42, 140, 149, 177 Esknamucky Glen, 135 Eye of the Needle, 46 Fair Hill, 4, 281 Falvey, Mrs. her Freeholds, 187 Farm Lodge, 189 Flesk Cottage, 71 Priory, 71 River, 3, 43, 71, 229, 230, 245 Road, 70 Innisfallen Island, 33, 43 45, 53, 180 Irrelagh Abbey, 80 Kenmare, Earl of, his house, 18 his Park, see Park River, 161 Road to, 92, 219 Fussa Chapel, 103 Gal way River, 128, 130 Gheran Tuel, 118 Giant's Coffin, 128 Glanflesk, 73, 219 Glen of the Horse, see Cowm-na-Coppul Glena Bay, 41, 181 Cottage, 41 Mountain, 19, 38, 71, 119, 149 Gleun a Heelah, 189 Green Hills, 89, 149 Grenagh, 110 Gun Rock, 41 Heading, 129, 132 Hen and Chickens, 42 Hyde's Cottage, 129 Inch House, 230 Kerry Head, 261 Kilcummin Church, 191 Killagy, 211 Killaha Castle, 219, 227, 248 Killarney, Town of, 8, 70, 162, 187, 207, 276 Killbran, Lake of, 187, 189 Kippoch, 214, 217 Kittane Loch, 211, 214,217 Knockanes, 261 Knockeen Dubh, 182 Knockrear, 12 Labig Owen, 187, 219, 226 Lakefield, 110 Laun River, 111 Lochaune Bower, 103 Lochawn Sloch, 153 Long Range, 140 Looha River, 229 Lough na Brach Darrig, 89 152 Lower Lake, 41, 43, 100, 154, 212 Mac Carty's Island, 128 Mac Gillicuddy's Reeks, 19 111 Macroom, Road to, 219 Mangerton, 19, 70, 149, 159, 161, 200, 217 Man of War, 140 Mieniska, 103 Minister's Back, 37, 64 Molly Boke's Cross, 99 XVI INDEX. Mouse Island, 33 Purple Mountain. 118 Mucruss Abbey, 71, 80 House, 43 Rabbit Island, 46 Mine, 89, 153 Keen Cottage, 21, 30, 47 Peninsula,71,149, Ronayne's Island, 126 152, 155 Ross Castle, 27, 70 Road, 19 Island, 26, 41, 157 Shore, 42 Mines, 43, 90, 157 Road, 19 Newfoundland Bay, 132, Round of Beef, 140 139 Rough Island, 42 Russ Bourky, 133 Oak Island, 133 Ruscru, 245 O'Donoghue's Broom, 42 Horse, 42 Slieve Mish, $61 Library, 31 Sgarrive-a-Kuilleen, 112 Pigeonhouse, Skeheen-a-Vibo, 75 30 Stag Island, 38 ' Prison, 32 Strap an' Gad, 132 Table, 42 Sugar Island, 43 - Wine Cellar, Sunday's Well, 19 150, 152 Old Weir Bridge,146,176, Tiernabowl, 199, 200 179 Toomies Mountain, 19, 33, O'Sullivan's Cascade, 33 111, 119 Punchbowl, 34 Tralee, 261 Bay, S61, Paddy Clane's Leap, 144 Mountains, 162 Paps, 200 Tullig Spa, 189, 199 Park House, 18, 189 Turk Cottage, 19, 149, 151 , the, 71, 186, 188 Lake, 147, 149, 154 Philadown, 187, 219, 225, Mountain, 41, 70, 149 245 Waterfall, 89, 92, 93 Philaquilla. Point, 33, 43, Upper Lake, 126 105 Plummers, Miss, Island, Violet Hill, 70 146, 209 Poul-an-Iffrin, 94 West Demesne, 10, 12, 30 Prospect Hall, 30, 99 Woodlawn, 71 LIST OF PLATitS. Vignette Title : Mucruss Abbey. I Old Weir Bridge. O'Snllivan's Cascade. The Devil's Punchbowl. The Gaj> of Dunloh. ( The Glen of the Horse. KILLARNEY LEGENDS. CHAPTER I. THE INN. TAKING it for granted, that when people go to see the Lakes of Killarney, they do not intend making a very serious business of the excursion, but rather desire, while their eyes are pleased with roman- tic scenery, that their ears should be tickled by legendary tales ; taking, I say, this broad assertion for granted, and further, that romantic scenery and legendary tales should go hand in hand with each other, it is certainly extraordinary that no guide- book should exist for the local traditions of Kil- larney. Weld's is an excellent volume " the work of a gentleman and a scholar, which merits a place in every library." Wright's is a convenient hand- book for the lakes ; arid there are, beside, other accounts of Killarney well enough in their way. But though these volumes respectively state the names of the rocks, the islands, and the mountains, I i KILLARNEY LEGENDS. and, in the true spirit of guides, describe in glow- ing language various scenic effects. does Weld, or \\rig-Kt, p? omith, or Bushe, or even the fair minstrel. Miss Luby, or the accomplished Hannah ]Via'r'.a Bourse, in her seven cantos about " them days" of* G'Donoghue, or Leslie's quarto, or O'Conner's,, or O'Kelly's, or O'Sullivan's octavo verses, or D. S. L.'s Moorish " Harp of Innisfail," inform their readers of all the legends of the lakes, the islands, and the mountains? Do they relate all the miraculous events which the pious annalists of Innisfallen have omitted to record ? Do they ? In short, a legendary guide-book to Killarney is wanted ; and, about to supply the deficiency, you will be so good, kind reader, as to imagine me seated on the box of the Killarney mail-coach, beside Mat Crowley, the driver. Boo boo boo moo he sounds the horn, as we rapidly descend the hill of Ballycasheen, and now we pause on the bridge which crosses the little river Aha-hunnig. '"Woe ho, neddy! Hallo, Riley, why don't you take off the drag ?" (Sing*) 1 re -r _JJ pSfc Riley, Really, you're the boy, Riley. "All right there? Oh bad luck to you, Riley !" Why, then, just keep your wishes of bad luck for yourself, Mat Crowley, if you please, can't you ?" A pretty scene this- -the stream, issuing from a wooded glen on the right, brawls along to the left, THE INN. J until it joins the broad rive Flesk. Below the bridge, on the left bank of the: stream, is a cottage and farm-yard, backed by an ancient rookery; and above the river Flesk is a wooded hill crowned by the fantastic towers of a modern castle, beyond which appear the rugged mountains that border the southern shore of the far-famecl lake of Kil- larney. " What castle is that, Crowley ?" " The castle is it? Why, then, 'tis, it is the castle sure enough, without any kind of doubt ! Did your honour never hear what Tool, the guard, said to a gentleman that axed him about that same Droumhoomper Castle that's the rale name for it, though they calls it Coltsman's Castle. You must know, sir, it was built by one Mister Coltsman, from London Coltsman he calls him- self now, though they say his rale name is Cole- man, and as good a name it is as Coltsman, any day of the week, for a fine leaper Coleman was, as your honour may plainly see on your way to the upper lake But what matter about his name ? he's a rale good gentleman any how, wherever he is, or whatever name is upon him, Coltsman or Coleman, sure 'tis no matter, for 'tis he has spent the power of money, in giving work to the poor people at the castle ; and that is more than can be said of many a one that has a better right nor him. But as I was saying, What's that ? says the gentleman to Tool, just like your honour, pointing over to Coltsman's Castle. O, says Tool, says he it's only a bit of London Pride* that grew up on the hill there lately! Gee-up, countess just look at the rein, Riley." * Saxifrage, or London Pride, grows profusely on the nills about Killarney. B2 4 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " Mind your hits, Crowley, it's all up hill. What have we here? Is this building a castle too ? It looks like a prison, or " " Fakes, then, 'tis few can make head or tail of it a quare place it was to build a castle for sartin, and for that very same reason they calls it Cour- tayne's Folly, your honour by the same token" But the rest was overpowered by boo boo boo moo he. The coach dashes by the park gate, and here we are just entering the town of Killarney. " This is Fair Hill, sir." " * Fair is foul/ What wretched cabins !" " Never mind, sir, we'll be in Killarney directly. (Sinjis) i " -&- I -f " Riley, really." Rumble rumble, we rattle over the paving stones of Hen-street. Every casement thrown open, and every head protruded, to gaze on the arrivals by the Cork mail-coach; and now we draw up in the Main- street, at the coach-office door. What a crowd, and how clamorous are the beggars ! But what are beggars or crowd to the quarrels of rival waiters, who await the arrivals, and who endeavour to carry insides and outsides off, " vi et armis," to their respective establish- ments. " Your honour won't forget the driver" " Only one ha'penny for the fatherless or- phins" THE INN. 5 " Sure your lordship's glory will throw a small trifle to the poor widow." " Oh, then, make way till I see the good gentleman's sweet face, will ye ? and my bless- ing on it; and 'tis his honour is going to give to a poor woman that wants it, and not to the like of ye, for a set of common beggarly black- guards." " Tis yourself is the gentlewoman then, Moll Drimen, because your husband was transported for mistaking Mahony's cow Oh she's a drunken blackguard, your honour, never mind her." " Something for poor Florry, your worship," cries a fellow with a pair of wooden stumps, mounted upon a ragged coated donkey, " Hurrah for Kerry." " The poor blind man, deprived of the blessed light of the glorious day." " Will I carry your honour's trunk ?" roars a raggedly inn-runner. " A pretty time of day we're come to," exclaims another, " when the likes of you pretend to carry a gentleman's portmantle !" " Don't be after minding either of them, sir, I'm the only boy for your honour." " This way, sir, to Gorham's Hotel," says Dan Donovan. " No," cries Dennis Donovan, a square built, black-whiskered waiter, with green spectacles, " no, his honour will go to the Kenmare Arms." And thus the case stands Daniel versus Dennis, each endeavouring to carry off insides and out- sides, bag and baggage, running all the time through the whole vocabulary of Irish slang abuse towards each other, and of blarney towards the strangers. KILLARNEY LEGENDS. At length a green-coated, ^lack-belted Peeler Commands the pace, allays the storm, and affords an opportunity of choice. Mine was to establish myself in Gorham's Hibernian Hotel, and I had no reason to regret it. I beg, however, to say that, in thus particularizing Gorham's, I do net mean any thing to the prejudice of " Mastet Tommy Finn/' proprietor of the well-known enmare Arms. Next to a man's own home, an Inn is the pleasantest place in the world ; you are always sure of a welcome, and meet with nothing but smiles from the landlord: smiles and welcome increased in exact proportion to the trouble you give. Ring the bell pull away you're heartily wel- come. " Waiter, tell Mr. Gorham I want to speak to him." 1 " Directly, sir." " Walk in, Mr. Gorham." The door opens, and the Gorham appears : a smart, round-faced, prinky little man, in a blue coat, drab trowsers, white socks, and well-polished pumps. His India silk handkerchief, not willing to hide its bright colours and " blush unseen," contrives to thrust forth a graceful corner, as if escaped by accident from its prison-pocket. His chin buried in a snow-white cravat, his head curled according to Jer Sullivan's newest version of the London mode, and with a pair of well- combed whiskers, which a Bond-street dand^ might envy ; the head thrust forward, the features relaxed into a broad grin of self-satisfaction and smiling complaisance. Imagine all this, I say, and Gorham stands before you. Behind Mr. Gorham appears his step-son, THE- INN. 7 Daniel, Danil, or Dan Donovan, for by all these names is he known. Gorham, (smiling, bowing, rubbing his hands, speaking very fine indeed,) " Do you want me, sare ?" " O ! Mr. Gorham, I presume ; I want to have some chat with you, but first let me know what I can have for dinner." Dan Donovan interposing, " Sir, if you want accommodation, sir, there's no place, sir, can please you, sir, like Gorham's Hotel, sir." " But the dinner, sir ? " Why, sir, ther's lamb, sir, and beef, sir, and mutton, sir, salmon, sir, and all sorts of v'riety of vegetables, sir." " Let me see, 'tis said your Kerry mutton is very sweet : a leg of mountain mutton, if you please, and some of your curdy salmon, fresh from the lake, what vegetables you like, of course good wine, and some of your whiskey to wash it down ; for, as the poet sings, " what will make you so merry, As the dew that is shed on the mountains of Kerry ?" All this time Gorham stood smirking and smiling. " I should be much obliged to you, Mr. Gorham, to see about a boat for me : to-morrow I intend to visit the lower lake." " O, sare, Mr. Pool will wait on you after dinner, 'tis he has the care of the boats." " Good evening, sare." [Exit Gorham, with a bow and a smile.] Gorham to Dan Donovan in the hall " A neat little fellow that, Dan ; 'pon my honour, I'll be bail he's a rare sketcher.' Having managed to dine tolerably well on the curdy salmon and mountain mutton, and finished 8 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. my bottle of claret, I had just commenced mixing the whisky punch, when Mr. Pool made his appearance. He was an active middle-aged man, dressed in a shooting jacket, knee breeches, and lea- ther galligaskins, and his countenance bore evident tokens of belonging to one who was no enemy to the good things of this life ; he had been in the army, had gained a Waterloo medal, and held the place of deputy barrack-master to Mr. Chris- topher Galway, agent to the earl of Kenmare ; and, in addition to his other honours, was lord high admiral of the Lakes of Killarney. Having, over a tumbler of whiskey punch, bespoke from Mr. Pool a four-oared boat for the ensuing day, and having made it a particular request that Spillane, with his bugle, might be in attendance, I determined on taking a stroll through the town, accompanied by a bare-legged guide, who, since my arrival, had stood at the Inn door most anxiously waiting to know " if my honour would be after going up Mangerton to-morrow morning early." The town of Killarney being like most other country towns, and as moreover I suppose those who visit Killarney to be possessed of their eye- sight, (indeed I never heard but of one blind man who went to see the lakes,*) it will be unnecessary here to enter into minute details. I will, there- fore, not detain the reader with an account of its shape, size, and situation, for this every other guide-book has done to a T, but content myself with merely observing, that, for an Irish town, it is remarkably clean. The principal charm of a ramble through Killarney consists in being accompanied by an * This, I believe, was Mr. Holman, the blind traveller. THE INN. 9 entertaining guide ; one who can put you in possession of the mind of the place, who can tell a good story, and whose local anecdotes, though slight and sketchy, give you a more characteristic idea of the people than could possibly be gained from more laboured accounts. Such a one was Mahony, or, as he was commonly called, Moun- tain Mahony, a tall sun-burnt lad, with an arch expression of countenance, dressed in liberator uniform of green, which, in truth, had been an old sporting jacket of Gorham's, with a hare-skin cap, peculiarly placed on the left side of his head, having the scut projecting according to the most knowing mode. In an evening ramble through Killarney, the first thing that will strike a stranger is the num- ber of idle people lounging about the streets, or standing with their backs against the door-posts of the houses and the shop windows. " Why, then,, your honour," said Mahony, " isn't Killarney a fine plashe ? but if it's a fine plashe now, it was'nt always so, it's myself remimbers, or if I don't, sure my father does well enough, when the ground we're triding on, was a wild boggy spot, all full of running strames; but the ould Lord Kenmare, the lord rist his sowl in glory, gave good incou- ragement to the people to build ; and, sure enough, many a jackeen would'nt be walking the pavemints like gentlemen to-day, if it was'nt for the ould lord's giving farms to their fathers and granfaders, for little or nothing, and all because they only builded a bit of a house; but them were the good lords, that did'nt go out of the country, but staid at home and minded the poor people, just for all the world like his honour, Lord Headly may the Lord reward him for that same : 10 KILLAJltfEY LEGENDS. but, as I was saying, it would be hard enough tf a day he was mending the road here, and I dong with him. " ' The dickins you don't,' says I, ' and what's your rason for that same?' 'I'll tell you that, 1 AGHADOE. 101 says he ; 'it was a could frosty night in the month of December, the doors were shut, and we were all sitting by the side of a blazing turf fire. My father was smoking his doode.eri, hi- the chiniin?y corner, my mother was > overseeing the girls that were tonging the flax, and -I Knd die fcther gos- soons were doing nothing at all, onty roasting praties in the ashes. " ' Was the colt brought in ?' says my father. ' Wisha, fakes then ! I believe not/ says I. < Why, then, Tim/ says he, ' you must run and drive him in directly, for it's a mortal could night/ i And where is he, father?' says I. 'In the far field, at the other side of the ould church/ says he. * Murder !' says I, for I didn't like the thoughts of going near the ould church at all, at all. But there was no use in saying agen it, for my father (God be merciful to him !) had us under as much command as a regiment of soldiers. So away I went, with a light foot and a heavy heart. Well, I soon came to the bounds' ditch between the farm and the berrin-ground of the ould church. Then I slackened my pace a little, and kept looking hither and over, for fear of being taken by surprise. The moon was shining clear as day, so that I could see the gray tombstones and the white skulls ; when, all at once, I thought one of them began to move. I could hardly believe my two eyes ; but, fakes, it was true enough ; for presently it came walking down the hill, quite leisurely at first, then a little faster, till at last it came rolling at the rate of a fox-hunt. " ' 'Twill be stopped at the bounds' ditch/ thinks I ; but I was never more out in my reckon- ing, for it bowled fair through the Gap, and made directly up to me. ' By the mortal frost/ says I, 102 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. ' I'm done for;* and away I scampered as fast as my legs could carry me ; but the skull came faster after me, for I could hear every lump it gave against the 'stones-. ' " ' It's a long stretch of a hill from the berrin- gFO'iin/1 rlo'wn to the road ; but you'd think I wasn't longer g'e'cimg down, than whilst you'd be saying ' Jack Robinson/ Sure enough I did make great haste ; but if I did, * the more haste the worst speed,' they say, and so by me any how, for I went souse up to iny neck in a dirty Lochaune by the side of the road. Well, when I recovered ^ little, what would I see but the skull at the edge of the Lochaune, stuck fast in a furze bush, and grinning down at me. " ' Oh, you're there,' says I ; I'll have one rap at you any how, for worse than die I can't ;' so I up with a lump of a black-thorn I had in my fist, and gives it a rap, when what should it be, after all, but a huge rat, which had got into the skull, and, trying to get out again, it made it to roll down the hill in that frightful way. ' To be sure/ said Tim, * to be sure it was mighty frightful, but it wasn't a ghost after all ; and, indeed, (barring that,) I never saw any thing worse than myself, though we lived for a long time near theould church of Aghadoe.' " " Very well, Picket," said Spillane, " so you don't believe in spirits ; but what do you say to the ghost of the Nut-cracker?" " And who was this Nut-cracker?" said I. " I'll tell you all about him, sir," replied Spil- lane, " but, in the mean time, we had better move on towards the Gap." Accordingly we pursued a road which led along the brow of the hill, till we reached the gate of AGHADOE. 103 Mieniska Cottage, then, turning down the hill, we regained the great road at a place called Mieniska Cross. " Well, but what about the Nut-cracker, Spillane ? " said I, as we passed by Fussa Chapel, and pursued our way between the woods and orchards which skirted this part of the road. " Not far from Killarney, sir," said Spillane, " there once lived a poor man, whose name was Paddy Byrne. He was by trade what is called a hedge-schoolmaster, because in the summer time he preferred teaching his scholars in the clear open air, to confining them within his small cabin. He is the very same Paddy Byrne of whom Mr. Gandsay sings : " Mister Byrne was a man Of very great big knowledge, sir, And behind a quickset hedge, In a bog, he kept his college, sir, He taught ' Reynard, the sly fox,' Ay, and more he had to brag on The < Irish rogues and rapparees' * Saint George, sir, and the dragon.' ' Such a one was Paddy Byrne, who kept his academy by the side of Lochaune bower, under the hill of Aghadoe. The place is well known; and any one will point out Lochaune bower, or the deaf pool, so called because it is said that if two people were to stand at opposite sides of the pool, they would not be able to hear each other, though they should call ever so loudly." " Did you ever try the effect of your bugle there, Spillane ? " "No, I can't say that I ever did, sir, for 'tis a small muddy pool by the road-side ; the country people are afraid to pass it late at night, as it is supposed to be enchanted, and is said to be 104 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. haunted by the figure of a lady dressed all in white." " I can tell you, Spillane, what happened to an English friend of mine at the deaf pool, not many years ago. He was accompanied by a Kil- larney gentleman, who pointed out the little pond to his notice, and at the same time related the tradition you have just mentioned as the origin of its name. ' 1 am obliged/ said my incredulous friend, ' to receive as truth many of the marvellous stories which are told me respecting these beauti- ful Lakes, because I cannot disprove them; but the extraordinary tale you have related, of two persons not being able to hear each other at a dis- tance of less than a hundred yards, if they were to speak even in an ordinary tone, to put shouting out of the question, is really too ridiculous, when no other natural cause exists, than a pond of muddy water between them, to intercept the sound/ ' The experiment is soon tried/ said the Killar- ney gentleman, evidently not much pleased at the veracity of a legend of the Lakes being called in question. ' Take your station here, and I will go round to the other side of the pool, and call to you.' He did so, at least he moved his lips, and per- formed all the gestures of a person, at first speak- ing, and then shouting, but although it was a still summer's morning, no sound whatever reached my friend : who, on shouting in return, was answered only by gestures expressive of his efforts to make himself heard being ineffectual. And thus ended his experiment. But, Spillane, as I am come pre- pared to give full credence to all that is told me, I will not require you to put the deaf pool to the test ; and will, therefore, thank you to resume your story about the Nut-cracker/' AGHADOE. 105 " Well, sir, Paddy Byrne not only possessed the peculiarities common to his class, but had also many little oddities of his own : he was a grave, thickset, little man, with immense bushy eyebrows and a lame step, so that when he attempted to walk, it was with a one-two-three hoppish kind of motion : and then he was so very fond of nuts, which he was continually cracking, that he was universally nick-named the Nut-cracker. It chanced, however, one fine day in the nutting season, that Paddy met with his fate. He had gone to Philequilla Point, in Ross Island, in order to lay in a store of this favourite article (for Philequilla is famous for nuts,) w r hen unfortu- nately, just as his bag was full, he was tempted to the edge of a rock, by a fine brown glossy bunch. Holding by a branch, and stretching at the nuts, the faithless branch gave way, and down went Paddy. " Sorely was he bruised and battered by the fall ; and in this condition he was discovered by some woodmen, who procured immediate assist- ance, and carried him home, not forgetting the bag of nuts which was the cause of his misfortune. To make a long story short, poor Paddy died, leaving particular directions that the bag of nuts should be placed on his coffin in the tomb. A fine funeral he had ; and after seeing Paddy and his bag quietly deposited together, the people as usual returned to their respective homes. " Among the neighbours who went to the fune- ral was Tim Murphy, a strong farmer, who lived at no great distance from the ruined church of Aghadoe, where we have just been, sir, and in whose house there was gathered (as usual) at night a knot of people, labourers and others, who 106 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. were amusing themselves as they sat round the hearth, by talking over the various news of the day. Among other things, the curious whim of Paddy Byrne was mentioned, in ordering the bag of nuts to be placed on his coffin, and buried with him ; and this, of course, brought on many stories of ghosts and apparitions which had been seen at the old church. ' I don't believe a word about such things/ said Sheehy, who had been for some time a quiet listener, ( I don't believe in ghosts at all ; and I'll bet a half-pint with any of ye, that I'll go to Paddy Byrne's tomb this very night, and bring away his bag of nuts/ " ' Done/ said Tim Murphy, ' it's a bargain/ And done, said Jack, as he left the house and made the best of his way to Aghadoe church- yard. " Though the moon was up, it was a foggy night, so that Jack could scarcely see a dozen yards before him, as he walked whistling along the bohereen or little road we came, which winds up the hill of Aghadoe and passes through the old grave-yard. Scarcely had he got there, when he heard a footstep trotting before him. ' Who goes there ?' said Jack. " ' Is that Jack Sheehy V answered a voice which he knew to be Bill Eaton's. " ' The very same/ answered Jack, * and at your service. But where would you be going this time of night ? I suppose you're on a bit of a spree, eh ! Billy ?' " < Why, then, it's the very thing I'd be after, said Billy ; ' and if you'll lend a hand you'rt welcome ; a bit of a stray sheep is no bad thing in a poor man's way; and Shaune an Uckrus has a few fat ones up yonder there : besides, AGHADOE. 107 where's the harm in taking it from the likes of him ? and nobody'll be the wiser of it but ourselves/ " ' By de Hokey, an 'tis I that will/ said Jack; ' for sure it was all along of him that I and my poor little bit of a family was turned out of our snug cabin and praty garden. I know well enough he wanted it for a poor relation of his own ; for the never a dacent fellow he has belonging to him, though he sets up for a gentleman, with his ' dis' and his i dat' and his big words, that no one can make out the understanding of. Oh, 'tis he, and the likes of him, is after destroying the country with his bad advices to the ould ancient gentlemen; driving the poor people, and count- ing the very eggs on them. " ' Tis the good truth for you/ says Bill ; < but may a body just have the bouldness to ax where you was going yourself, Jack ; sure it wasn't on a spree you was, like myself?' " i Indeed, then, it wasn't/ said Jack : and then he told him all about Paddy Byrne, the bag of nuts, and the wager. " < Well, then/ said Bill, ' do you stay here and get the bag of nuts, while I go for the mut- ton :' so away he went. Left to himself, Jack Sheehy made direct to Paddy Byrne's tomb, and, removing the stone from its mouth easily enough, for there was no mortar ready to close it up, pos- sessed himself of the bag of nuts. And, as he had promised to wait for Billy and the sheep, he thought it no harm in the meantime to crack a few. Now it happened that there was a little boy herding cows in the next field to the grave-yard, who, when he heard the cracking of the nuts go- ing on, didn't know what to make of it ; so he 108 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. had the courage to steal softly along the ditch, 'till he came opposite the place where he heard the work, and there, half seen through the fog, he perceived the figure of a man sitting on Paddy Byrne's tomb, with a bag in his hand. " The little boy immediately concluded it to be no other than Paddy Byrne himself; so away he ran, in a great fright, to tell his master, who lived within a few fields of the place. Mick Finegane was his master's name, and, when he heard the little boy's story, he did not feel a bit inclined to venture out to look at Paddy Byrne's ghost ; but his old bedridden mother-in-law, who lay in a little room on one side of the chimney, heard also what the boy said. " A whimsical old hag she was, and used often to annoy Mick with her fancies ; but Mick bore them all patiently enough, for she had a good purse in the toe of an old stocking, and Mick, (like a pru- dent man, had an eye to the main chance. But of all the whims she ever took into her head, her present one was the oddest, and the most annoy- ing to poor Mick ; for, calling him to the bedside, she vowed never to leave him as much as a penny piece, if he didn't take her on his back to the old grave-yard, to see Paddy Byrne's ghost. What her motive was is more than I can tell ; but, I suppose, as she was a woman, it must have been curiosity. Now, though Mick had no great good- will towards the lady's freak, yet he thought it a pity to lose the purse after waiting for it so long. " So, taking her on his back, with many an inward curse, away he went. But when he arrived at the grave-yard, and heard the cracking of the nuts going on, horror almost overpowered all other feelings. AGHADOE. 109 " ' Is she fat ?' said Jack Sheehy, who was still seated on the tomb, and, in the dim light, very naturally mistook Mick and his mother for Bill Eaton and the sheep, ' is she fat ?' This was too much entirely for Mick's nerves ; so, throwing the old woman down, he roared out, ' fat or lean, there's she for you, Mister Byrne/ And away he scampered as fast as his legs could carry him. What became of the old woman I never heard, or whether, after this, Jack waited for his share of the mutton, is more than I can say : but 'tis certain he won his wager ; for the next morning it was reported all over Killarney, that Paddy Byrne was seen cracking his nuts in the grave-yard ; and, to this day, many people believe that the ghost of the Nut-cracker still appears in the old church- yard, on the hill of Aghadoe." 110 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. CHAPTER VIII. THE GAP. " THERE'S the green gates of O'Connell, sir/* said Spillane, as we passed the entrance to Grenagh. " The patriotic colour truly these O'Connells seem to be great fellows in this part of the world." " Great ! and why wouldn't they be great ?" interposed Picket, " ar'n't they the ould ancient stock ? and isn't James O'Connell married to the Madam's daughter* down at Lakefield there ? and isn't the Counsellor doing great good for ould Ireland ? sure he'll make the nation our own yet, and bring back the parlimint in spite of govern- ment, though that same government is a strong man, they say. And isn't John O'Connell, of Grenagh here, a great sportsman, and a justice of the pace ; and doesn't he keep the hounds, and give the stag-hunts, and traverse the roads, and see the whole county justified at the 'sizes ? Sure 'tis they that ought to be great, and why wouldn't they ?" * Speaking of Charles (VDonoghue, Esq. the present representative of the ancient chiefs of Glanflesk, Mr. Wright, in his Guide Book, says. " his mother, who resides in the village of Killarney, is universally distin- guished by the appellation of i The Madam/ as a mark of respect to the matron of the family." p. 18. THE GAP. Ill Shortly after passing the green gates of O'Con- nell, we came to Laun, or, as it is sometimes called, Beaufort Bridge. The morning sun illu- minated the fantastic points of Macgillicuddy's Reeks, and the broad heathy side of the gigantic Toomies, while the noble river Laun, checquered with a beautiful interchange of light and shadow, not far from where it emerges out of the Lower Lake, swept by the darkening woods of Beaufort, which descended to its bank, and passed, rapid, broad, and full, beneath the bridge of many arches, on which I paused to contemplate the scene. " What a lovely landscape how beautiful is this river!" I exclaimed aloud, forgetful at the moment of the presence of others, till roused from my reverie by the sound of a female voice. " Why, then, that's no more than the good truth your honour has said. Tis a beautiful river sure enough, God bless it ; and sure one ought always to say God bless it, or may be it would be as bad with them as it was with the ould hermit that lived here long ago." I turned to gaze on the speaker she was a tall elderly woman ; her head was covered by a white handkerchief, the ends of which passed round her neck, and tied behind ; from beneath this covering some stray grisly locks escaped, and hung in wild disorder on her high and wrinkled forehead. She wore a green quilted gown and check apron, and on her shoulders was a large showy cotton shawl ; black worsted stockings, and a pair of brogues, completed her attire. Over her right arm was thrown a blue frieze cloak, decorated by a massive silver clasp, and on her left she carried a basket of gingerbread, with which, I soon learned, she was proceeding to the fair of Killoroglin. 112 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. The brown and weather-beaten face of this woman, her long hooked nose, ajid expressive black eyes, seemed perfectly familiar to me, and yet I could not recollect where I had before seen her. " Ah, then, sir," said she, " 'twas what your good honour, may the Lord reward you for the same, gave me on Monday evening last, up at Clough na Cuddy, that helped me to buy this small trifle of gingerbread that's in the basket." This speech completed my recognition of the speaker. " Well, my good woman," said 1, " as we are travelling the same road, and you seem to be acquainted with the old stories of the place, I should be glad to hear about the hermit you were speaking of, if you have no objection." " Wisha, then, no objection in life, your honour," replied my companion : " Why would I ? for sure it isn't for the likes of me, to say agin a jintleman." And, without further preface , she proceeded. " Your honour then must know, that in the good ould times the country was full of holy men, hermits, and friars, who did nothin at all, but pray day and night ; and their prayers brought a blessin on the country, not to speak of the salvation of their own sowls. But the holiest of all the blessed men of those times was the hermit of Sgarrive a Kuilleen ; for Sgarrive a Kuilleen is the name of the bridge we were standing on a little while ago, and the English of it is Holly Ford ; for in those days there were no bridges at all, and the people were content to walk bare-foot through the water, whenever it came in their way. But if they hadn't bridges, they had plenty of holy men, and plenti- ful times, and good honest hearts ; which is more THE GAP. ]f 3 than can be said for the people in our days ; though, to be sure, they're a great deal cliverer with their inventions, and all that; but the simple ould folks were the best of all. " Well, your honour, as I was sayin, the hermit of Sgarrive a Kuilleen was a blessed man, and he lived in a little hut on the banks of the river, not far from the ford, where the bridge is now ; and there was a great resort of people from far and near to him, to get gospels and orations, and be cured of all sorts of sickness and blasts from the good "people : for he was a very holy man, and in such favour with God, that he was fed by the blessed angels, who brought him bread from heaven. " Well, your honour, that was all well and good, till one stormy night he happened, as bad luck would have it, to be looking out of his hut. * Tis a desperate night/ says he/ and never a word more ; for he was very sleepy, and so he forgot to say ' Glory be to God/ which was a greater sin for him, than the killing of a man would be in the likes of us. But, if he forgot to say Glory be to God, the angels forgot to bring him any bread in the morning. So that he was very sorrowful, for he knew that he must have done somethin wrong; though, for the life of him, he couldn't recollect what it was. At last, he bethought himself of how he looked out at the storm, and that he said it was a desperate night, without saying Glory be to God ; and, so when he thought of this, and what a mortal sin it was for him, that was reckoned such a holy man, he got quite in despair, and began to think what penance he should do for his sin. At last, he caught hould of a holly stick, which, he used to carry in his I 114 KILLARKEY LEGENDS. hand, whenever he went out to walk, and away he ran, like mad, down into the middle of the river, and planted his stick in it, and made a vow never to lave that spot, till his stick should begin to grow. " Well, sir, he wasn't there long, till a noted thief came driving some cattle over the ford, and he wondered to see the hermit standing in the river, before him. So, he just made bould to ax him, what in the world he was doing there? so with that, the hermit up and tould him, how he was looking out at the storm, and ho v w he said it was a desperate night, and how he for- got to say, Glory be to God, and how he made a vow never to lave that spot, till his holly stick would begin to grow. " When the thief heard the whole story, just as it happened, he was struck with a great sor- row for his sins ; for he thought, if it was so bad with such a holy man, it must be a great deal worse with himself: so he resolved to make res- titution of all he ever stole ; and, determining to follow the hermit's example, he cut a holly stick, and ran into the river alongside of him, and made a vow never to stir till the stick would begin to grow. " Well, your honour, if he went into the water, he wasn't there long ; for sure enough, his stick began to grow in a minute, and send out the most beautiful green sprouts ; and so he knew that his sins were forgiven, and went up out of the water with a heart as light as a feather. But, if it was easy with him, it wasn't so with the hermit ; for he was thinking more of the bread from heaven, and the loss of his character with the people, than he was of his sin ; till at last, a big flood came in THE GAP. 115 the river, and then he was sorry for his sin in good earnest ; and so he was forgiven, for his stick be- gan to grow ; but that didn't prevent the flood from whipping him away, and so he was drownded. But, if he was, it was the happy death for him ; for the thief, that was standing on the bank, heard the most beautiful music, and saw something white going up into the sky; which, without doubt, was the holy angels carrying the hermit's sowl to heaven. And so, your honour, the place is known ever since, by the name of Sgarrive a Kuilleen, and I never passes it, without saying (as a good right I have) God bless it, or, Glory be to God." Such is the legend of Sgarrive a Kuilleen,* as told by the old woman, with whom I parted at the cross leading to Killoroglin, after thanking her for the story, and gladdening her heart by another small gift. " There are some verses, sir," said Spillane, " about a Killarney Hermit ; composed to an old Irish air, by the Right Honourable George Ogle. Although I can't take upon me to say, whether it was the hermit of Sgarrive a Kuilleen, or not." " What, the Ogle who wrote the song of ' Molly Asthore V 1 As down by Banna's banks I stray'd One evening in the spring ' If you recollect the verses of which you have spoken, Spillane, I should be obliged by your repeating them for me." " I think I do, sir, and, moreover, three or four additional verses by Mr. Ogle, which have not been printed. * Sgarbh, a Ford, and Cuileam, the Holly-tree. i2 116 KILL ARNEY LEGENDS. " As on Killarney's bank I stood, near to her crystal wave, I saw a holy hermit retired within his cave : His eyes he often turn'd to heaven, and thus exclaimed he : Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for me, " His bed was strew'd with rushes, which grew along the shore, And o'er his limbs emaciate, a sackcloth shirt he wore ; His hoary beard and matted hair, hung listless to his knee : Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for me. " I thought his heart had broken, so heavy were his sighs, I thought his tears had dried up the fountains of his eyes, Oh 'twas a grievous thing to hear, a piteous sight to see : Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for niOi " His sorrows pierced my bosom, in all I took my share, My sighs his sighs re-echoed, I gave him tear for tear ; I had no comfort left to give, it might intrusive be : Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for me. " Awhile he ceased his mourning, and looked in thought profound, But anguish soon returning, he started from the ground ; With feeble rage he smote his breast, and thus exclaimed he : Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for me. " How weak are foolish mortals, who sigh for pomp and state, They little know the dangers, that on high station wait ; They little know the various ills, that follow high degree : Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for me, " Ambition's but a bubble, a circle in the sea, Extending o'er the surface, and ne'er can ended be ; Till in itself, itself is lost, the breath of vanity : Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for me. THE GAP. 117 c Why did I trust to honour, I reckoned by my own ? Why did I trust to virtue, when she to heaven was flown ? Alas ! too late, I now lament my fond credulity : Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for me. *' I thought that there was friendship, but that's a gem most rare ; I thought that love was sacred, and beauty was sincere ; But these are visions all like dreams, which with the morning flee : Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for me. " Oh, had I been a shepherd upon the mountain's brow, I ne'er had known those feelings, which I experience now ; My flocks had been my only care, from every other free : Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for me. " Those toils will soon be over, my pilgrimage is past ; The gates of heaven are open'd, redemption smiles at last; May all my enemies be blest, my wrongs forgiven be : Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for me. " He laid him down upon his bed, the threads of life were broke, His eyes seemed closed in death's dim shade, I thought he ne'er had spoke ; Again, with faltering voice he said, 'twas life's last agony, Adieu, adieu, thou faithless world thou wert not made for me." " Thank you, Spillane yours must be an ex- cellent memory; but all old ballads, or, even their modern imitations, sink deeply into the heart. " Pray, who does Beaufort belong to ?" said I, as we journeyed en towards the Gap. " Why, then/' replied Picket, " the right owner is Mr. Day, only he sould it to Parson Mulling, 118 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. Lord Ventry's brother, and left the country, because the priest wouldn't let the childer go to his school, and larn to read the protestant bible. Sorry enough the people was, when he went away ; for he was a good gentleman, only he had no bisness to meddle with their religion ; and sure the priest had no less than rason at his side, for wasn't he bound to keep the craturs in the right way. But see, your honour, there's Dunloh Castle, and John O'Connell's house opposite it> at the other side of the river." Dunloh Castle is about a mile from the Lake, seated on a steep bank, rising immediately above the river, which forms some beautiful pools shaded by fine trees. This bank is closely covered with wood, and the meadows which surround it are also richly wooded. The castle commands a noble view of the Lower Lake, and of the singular pass, called the Gap of Dunloh, of the lofty and pointed Reeks, and of the still more lofty and pointed Gheran Tuel.* From Dunloh Castle we proceeded to the Gap, a deep, narrow, wild, and irregular valley between the Reeks and the Purple Mountain. The want of correspondence in the sides of this Gap is very striking, and it is the abode of several small lakes. The Purple Mountain is very lofty, though inferior to the Reeks. Weld has said, that the hue from which it receives its name, arises from a plant, * Or Carran Tual, i. e. according to Mr. Wright, " the inverted reaping-hook, which the outline of the summit strongly resembles." Wright states, that " the late mea- surements of Mr. Nimmo (Mr. Porter, I believe, he should have said) have shown Carran Tual to be three thousand four hundred and ten feet above the level of the sea, while Mangerton (formerly considered the higher) is only two thousand five hundred and fifty." THE GAP. 119 with which it is covered ; but this assertion appears founded in mistake, as the colour is entirely owing to a purple stratum of slaty rock, whose shivered fragments cover the upper parts of the mountain. Glena and Toomies are branches of this mountain ; and the former is more particularly remark- able, for what, in some degree, characterizes the whole mountain namely, the lap-like form of its parts. Glena, when viewed from the lake, exhibits a series of concave lines from top to bottom. Some of the crags in the Gap are very lofty, and almost perpendicular; and the whole is an exceedingly romantic scene. TootytooteTootytoo 16" " A tolerable echo that, Spillane ; Hark! how it rings through the mountains ! What a wild spot this dark lake, with its surrounding hills ! See, how its black waves roll against the shore, and break upon the rocks with an angry growl. It seems the very abode of melancholy; and I should not wonder, if there was some wild story connected with the place." " By the bye, sir," said Spillane, " I believe there is a story, something about a great serpent, I think do you know any thing of it, Picket ?" " The serpent, is it ?" said Picket, in reply. " Sure, every body has hard tell of the blessed Saint Patrick, and how he druve the sarpints and all manner of venemous things out of Ireland. How he * bothered all the varmint/ entirely. But for all that, there was one ould sarpint left, who was too cunning to be talked out of the country, and made to drown himself. Saint Patrick didn't well know how to manage this fellow, who was doing great havoc ; till, at long last he bethought 120 KILLARNEY LEGEND^ himself, and got a strong iron chest made, with nine boults upon it. "So, one fine morning, he takes a walk to where the sarpint used to keep ; and the sarpint, who didn't like the saint in the least, and small blame to him for that, began to hiss and show his teeth at him like any thing. ' Oh/ says* Saint Patrick, says he, * where's the use of making such a piece of work, about a gentleman like my- self coming to see you. 'Tis a nice house I have got made for you, agin the winter ; for I'm going to civilize the whole country, man and beast/ says he, ' and you can come and look at it when- ever you please, and 'tis myself will be glad to see you/ " The sarpint hearing such smooth words, thought that though Saint Patrick had druve all the rest of the sarpints into the- sea, he meant no harm to himself; so the sarpint walks fair and easy up to see him, and the house he was speaking about. But when the sarpint saw the nine great boults upon the chest, he thought he was sould, (betrayed,) and was for making off with himself as fast as ever he could. " ' 'Tis a nice warm house, you see/ says Saint Patrick, ' and 'tis a good friend I am to you/ " * I thank you kindly, Saint Patrick, for your civility/ says the sarpint, * but I think it's too small it is for me' meaning it for an excuse, and away he was going. " ( Too small!' says Saint Patrick, 'stop, if you please/ says he, ' you're out in that, my boy, any how I am sure 'twill fit you completely ; and, I'll tell you what/ says he, ' I'll bet you a gallon of porter/ says he, * that if you'll only THE GAP. 121 try and get in, there'll be plenty of room for you.' " The sarpint was as thirsty as could be with his walk, and 'twas great joy to him the thoughts of doing Saint Patrick out of the gallon of porter; so, swelling himself up as big as he could, in he got to the chest, all but a little bit of his tail. * There, now,' says he, ' I've won the gallon, for you see the house is too small for me, for I can't get in my tail/ When, what does Saint Patrick do, but he comes behind the great heavy lid of the chest, and, putting his two hands to it, down he slaps it, with a bang like thunder. When the rogue of a sarpint saw the lid coming down, in went his tail, like a shot, for fear of being whipped off him, and Saint Patrick began at once to boult the nine iron boults. " * Oh, murder! won't you let me out, Saint Patrick?' says the sarpint ' I've lost the bet fairly; and I'll pay you the gallon like a man/ " * Let you out, my darling/ says Saint Patrick, ' to be sure I will by all manner of means but, you see, I haven't time now, so you must wait till to-morrow/ And so he took the iron chest, with the sarpint in it, and pitches it into the lake here, where it is to this hour for certain; and 'tis the sarpint struggling down at the bottom that makes the waves upon it. Many is the living man," continued Picket, " besides myself, has hard the sarpint crying out, from within the chest under the water, ' Is it to-morrow yet ? Is it to-morrow yet ?' which, to be sure, it never can be : and that's the way Saint Patrick settled the last of the sar pints, 122 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " Bless me, what a road ! why it's nothing but a heap of loose rocks ! " " Yes, sir, as far as this a jingle can come/' said Spillane they have a song in the town about a party coming through the Gap, but I don't know it all/' " Well, let me hear what you do know." And Spillane commenced : " We set off from Killarney one bright sunny morn, With clouds on the mountain that threatened a storm ; In a jingle we go to the Gap of Dunloh, And sometimes drive fast, and sometimes drive slow, Singing high row, riot, and wont you be quiet ? And can't you sit easy just like a daisy fair and easy ? " For the road was not always quite equable there, But sometimes it was rough, and sometimes it was fair ; And the horse he was lame, and the vehicle bad, And the driver a fool, and the passengers mad. Singing high row, riot, and won't you be quiet ? And can't you sit easy just like a daisy fair and easy ? " That's all I can remember, sir." " This is really fearful the pass is so narrow, and the mountains look as if they were ready to crush us. I wish we were fairly through; it would be no joke to have the rock where that thought- less goat is cutting a caper fall upon us. Picket, can you tell me who made this road ? " " Ah, then, who would it be but myself and the gray major that lives at Dunloh Castle ; for sure 'twas he got the presintment, and myself broke the stones, and as a nate jantleman he is, surely, as any in the county 'tis he that keeps the good house, and 'tis he can make the fine speech, for which rason they calls him Tongue Arrigud, which manes the Silver Tongue." When clear of the Gap, we began to descend ; THE GAP. 123 and Picket conducted me to a little bank on the mountain's side, from whence there is a splendid prospect. The Upper Lake, with all its woods and mountains to the left; immediately beneath, Lord Brandon's demesne, with its round tower peeping above the surrounding trees; and to the right, Cowm Duve or the Black Valley, a deep hollow in the Reeks, with a dark lake at its extremity, and the wall -like mountain, towering above it to an immense height. For here, amid his Alpine solitude, The spirit of the mountain sits sublime : His arm a cataract, his foot a flood. His wide waist girded by the wrecks of time, His broad brow bound with wreaths of rolling 1 rime, His voice a storm, starts Echo from her cell, Furrows the billow to its bed of slime, Raves through the passes of each subject fell, And fitful moans and sighs adown the distant dell. Stern is his form, but, in his calmer mood, Mild beauty dallies with his awful crest j His storm voice dies along the solitude, As when an infant sings itself to rest ; And his smile burns along the glassy breast Of yonder lake, where " The boat is waiting, sir," exclaimed my guide. 124 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. CHAPTER IX. THE UPPER LAKE. " HERE'S the gate into Lord Brandon's place," said Picket, " by my own sowl, it's locked it is, and your honour can't get in, for his honourable lordship always takes the key away with him in his breeches pocket. Why, then, isn't it a pro- voking case that his lordship wouldn't be at home before your honour ; I'll be bail, if he was, he'd show you every inch of the place himself; for sure 'tis he's the rale jantleman, and as mild as mother's milk. Tis long till he'd run out with a loaded gun, like some of your musheroon quality, to prevent people from landing on his ground. Och, no, that isn't the kind he is, for sure isn't he a minister, ay, and a good one too; 'tis long till he'd distress the poor people for tithes or church money out at Castle Island there, where he has his living. And, then, when he comes here among the mountains, it isn't to shoot and sport, but to be out of the way of the world, while he's praying and writing sarmints. O, then, isn't it a wonder he is'nt made a bishop of?" By this time we had reached the boat, where we were received with a general shout, which went circling round the hills. THE UPPER LAKE. 125 " Oh, then/' said Begly, " your honour's as welcome to us as the flowers of May." " Oh, then, that he is, that's no lie for you, Begly," said the rest of the crew. " Thank you, lads, I'm glad to see you. Plun- ket, give the men some whiskey. " " Long life to your honour," said Doolan. " It's rale Tommy Walker, sure enough," said Begly. " Hand the cup here," said Purty. " Pooh, ho ho, but it's tearin strong." " Fakes, then it is the right sort," said big Dinny. " Will I give Barret a drop, your honour ? " " Barret ! O by all means, I didn't perceive him before. I am glad to see you, Barret." " Thank your honour; I just made bold to come up with the boat, to see if I'd catch a bit of a salmon to roast for your honour's dinner." " Will you have it, Barret ? " said big Dinny, at the same time holding up the bottle. " Will 1 ? may be I won't ; why," replied Bar- ret, " will a duck swim ? why, Dinny ? " As we crossed the Upper Lake, towards Ro- nayne's Island, from Plunket's conversation I ga- thered that Barret, with whom I had made acquaintance at Innis fallen, was by trade a ladies' shoemaker, but by inclination so determined a sportsman, that he seldom exercised the gentle craft. He was what in Killarney is termed a Carrig a fourt man, from a rock of that name on the margin of the Lower Lake, where many a broken tradesman may be seen preparing his fishing tackle to delude the finny tribe ; hence, to say that a man is gone to Carrig a fourt, is equivalent with saying he is a broken mer- 126 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. chant one who is either so idle or so unfor- tunate as to trust to the art of angling for a precarious subsistence. I was also given to understand, that Barret was rather an entertaining fellow, and valued himself not a little on his knowledge as an anti- quary ; for he could tell the precise dates when the Abbeys of Mucruss and Innisfallen were founded ; and could beguile the time with many a legendary tale, when the sun was too bright or the wind too high to permit the pursuit of his favourite sport. As long as this sport con- tinued, however, there was no getting a word from him, except a few broken exclamations, such as " Egad, a noble salmon!" " By Jove, I've hitched him !" " There's nothing like an orange fly!" On the Upper Lake, all traces of the lower country are completely lost, and the views are confined to its own valley and the surrounding mountains ; but these are so varied and so magni- ficent, the valley so rich in wood, and the lake, with its numerous islands, so beautiful, as to leave nothing in point of scenery to be wished for. It affords the most exquisite fore-grounds and middle distances for the painter, but is not exactly the place in which to study the purple hues ot distance, which are so finely exemplified in the Lower Lake. " This is Ronayne's Island, sir," said Plunket, as the boat struck against the landing-place, " there's a fine prospect from the top of it; Bar- ret will show you the path." From the verge of the water, Ronayne's Island rises steep and rocky, possessing but one little green nook, which serves as a landing-place, and THE UPPER LAKE. 127 on which are the remains of a cottage. The island is covered with wood, and has a double crown, each of which points commands a pretty view of the lake, and neighbouring islands. Behold the winding course of yonder lake, Not broad, but, like a noble river, crown'd With many an island green, whose smiles awake More lovely, from the shadows cast around, Of those gigantic hills, dark, rugged, and embrown'd. " Barret, have you brought the large book from the boat? Here, give it to me Weld says some- thing about this island, I think let me see. Ah, Weld wants an index very much indeed but I have found it." And accordingly I read aloud, as follows : " One man, however, there was, upon whose romantic mind a deeper impression was made ; he was an Englishman, of the name of Ronayne. The spot which he selected for his retreat was this small island, which yet retains his name. He avoided all society, and seldom left the island." " Very romantic indeed." " Psha ! " said Barret. " What are you pshawing about, Barret ? " said I. " Why, then, I'll tell you : Did ever any one hear such a story as your honour was reading just now ; what, old Philip Ronayne, an Englishman ? why, sir, he was bred and born in the County Cork, and I don't believe he ever put foot out of ould Ireland. And then such stuff about romantic and Voiding society, psha! Phil Ronayne, sir, was a quare ould fellow, with one eye blue and the other gray, that used to come here sometimes in the sason for shooting and fishing, mighty fond 128 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. he was of the sport; by the same token that ha was mighty near shooting a boatman once, who stole a brace of birds out of his cabin, that he built down by the landing-place there. They say he built the cabin himself; and, for sartin, he was mighty ingenous in making rings for pigs' noses ; and he made a sort of a machine, that he gave Colonel Herbert ; and, as to tying flies, there wasn't a man in the county could come near him ; and then, as to Voiding society, why, bless you, he made as free with the people as any thing, and used often to come into Killarney of an even- ing, and take a tumbler of punch with the ould folk. To be sure, he didn't like to have people come tazing him, and spying about his cabin, and small blame to him for that same ; so at last, when the blackguards were making too great a hand of him entirely, he went away for good an' all." " Indeed, Barret, your account is quite dif- ferent from Mr. Weld's ; and you really ought not to have spoiled so pretty and so romantic a story; but we had better descend to the boat/' Leaving Ronayne's Island, we glided by several others, named either after some particular person or some natural peculiarity, as Mac Carty's Island, Arbutus Island, the Eagle's Island, &c. ; then, turning to the right, passed a rock called the Giant's Coffin, at the left-hand side, as we entered the river Galway. " Do you see that big black rock, sir ?" said Begly; " 'tis called the Giant's Coffin, and for a vary simple rason to be sure, because it looks for all the world like one ; and 'tis so big entirely, that if ever it was a coffin at all, which for cer- THE UPPER LAKE. 129 tain it never was, it must have belonged to the giants of ould." At the landing-place it was my singular good fortune to recognize an old school- fellow. But it is useless here to detail the circumstances of this extraordinary meeting, after a separation of fifteen years. Tempted by the offer of a commission, Mr. Lynch left school a mere boy, and, within a few weeks after, while veterans died of fatigue and exhaustion by his side, he awoke from a sweet and refreshing sleep in the battle of Waterloo ! His military career, however, was as short as it was premature and honourable ; he retired from active service at an age when most men enter upon it, and, with the independent half pay of an ensign, and the glory of a Waterloo medal, established himself in the romantic region of Kil- larney ; a region well suited to his boyish poetical temperament, and enthusiastic feelings. Most readily did I submit myself to his proffered guid- ance ; " and so," Lynch, " which way do we move ?" " Plunket," said Mr. Lynch, " do you meet us at the Heading with the boat. And now forward, if you please. " What a charming glen ! this is beautiful indeed ! What do you call it ?" " This is Derrycunnihy; but you have not seen half its beauties yet. Ah, here is Mr. Hyde, most apropos for us, as he will give us admission, through this rustic gate, to his pretty cottage, from whence we can proceed to the cascade, and then by the new line of road to the Heading but here he comes." The Rev. Arthur Hyde, with much politeness, 130 KILLAftNEY LEGENDS. conducted us through his shrubbery. His cottage, with its projecting thatched roof and flower- covered trellis, is extremely pretty. It is seated in a garden surrounded by woods, commands a view of the Waterfall, and has the river Gal- way running, or rather brawling, close be- side it. Crossing a rustic bridge, we proceeded along the northern bank of the river, and, entering a wood at the other side of Mr. Hyde's carriage road, began to climb the steep side of the Water- fall. " Beware of that bramble," said Mr, Lynch, " Now catch hold of this tree, and spring up the rock. Here we are at the top of the fall, where the water gushes between two dark rocks, and tumbles foaming beneath us. Cast your eyes down to the depth of the valley, and observe how invitingly the cottage looks, with its little green lawn, the very image of peace and seclusion then those dark mountains ; these surrounding woods ; and, looking up the stream, that calm home-scene. But you seem fatigued, my friend, therefore suppose we qualify some of this Derry- cunnihy water with a drop of old malt whiskey, and drink to the spirit of the fall. I'm old soldier enough to carry my canteen in my pocket." " I have no objection," said I ; " you seem quite inspired, Lynch, however, without the whiskey. " Derrycunnihy, I continued, has not a very poetical sound ; let me see what hand I can make of it. The man who would see Derrycunnihy fall, Must come with good whiskey, or not come at all ; Singing down, down, down, derry down ; THE UPPER LAKE. 131 And a pocket well lined, for minus the money, he May as well stay at home from sweet, sweet Derrycunnihy, * To sing down, down, down, derry down. But if cash and if whiskey both come at his call, Oh, then he may see Derrycunnihy fall, And sing down, down, down, derry down ; And he'll be the boy, like a flower to the honey-bee, For the lads of the lakes, and sweet, sweet Derrycunnihy, Sing down, down, down, derry down. I defy ( the grand master' himself to improvisa- torize better ! " "A truce to your badinage," said Mr. Lynch, putting on a prodigiously solemn face. " The versification may be smoother; but my verses, I maintain, are not less in character with the scene than yours. O here's a sweet glen ! where the foam of the fall O'er the dark frowning rock rushes on to the lake ; Where the mountain nymph, Echo, awakes at its call, And the startled deer fearfully fly through the brake ; Where the holly and yew throw their shade o'er the brook, As onward it brawls by yon cottage so lone, That peacefully smiles from its own flowery nook, As charm'd with the musical voice of its moan. Oft, oft, when my heart 'mid the dwellings of men In its gloom may repine, will my spirit recall The brightness and calm of this lone little glen, Where rushes thy foam, Derrycunnihy fall. " Ah ! you never had a soul for poetry ; there- fore let us descend, take a view of the fall from below, and make the best of our way to the Heading, where by this time the boat must be waiting for us." At the infinite hazard of our necks, we de- scended from our elevated situation, and with K2 132 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. some difficulty gained a rock in the centre of the stream, at the foot of the fall. " Look up observe how wide the water spreads from the first compact fall, encroaching on the woods and rocks at either side, so that the very foliage seems to yield a thousand little tributary streams. See, they unite and again fall fall foam and fall, till lost amid the woods which shadow its course." " How snowy-white is the foam, and how great the contrast between it and the jetty tint of the rocks!" From hence, proceeding by Mr. Hyde's car- riage road, we gained the new line between Kenmare and Killarney, and, following its course towards the latter place, in a short time reached the Heading, which is an archway or tunnel of some extent, cut through the rock, to permit a passage for the road. The road from this spot was worthy of remark, being a platform, cut with great labour, along the base of Cromigleun Mountain. On one side was the mountain, steep, rocky, and wooded, and on the other a precipice overhanging the Bay of Newfoundland, Many a fantastic branch shot athwart the road, while their bare and gnarled roots wound around the rocks, and an- chored in their crevices. Frequently immense rocks were seen standing like a wall at either side of the road, for whose passage they had evidently been forced to make way. " Descending from the Heading to the water- side, we found the boat in waiting, and imme- diately embarked. " Your honour's welcome to us," said Doolan. " And isn't the Strap an' Gad a fine place ?" THE UPPER LAKE. 133 c< What do you mean by Strap an' Gad, Doolan?" " Why, then, just the Heading there, your honour ; and the reason they calls it the Strap an* Gad is because there was a famous robber, one Martin Mahony, that used to rob and strip the whole country round, like a thief as he was and whenever he was hunted, he used to run to the big rock, where the Heading is now, and there he had a strap or gad hanging down, which he used to catch a hould of, and make a leap up the rock, and then he'd pull the gad after him, so that there was no one could follow him, and there was no catching him at all." Here there was a general pause, " Barret," said Mr. Lynch, " I believe that is the Oak Island ; it is also called Russ Bourky, and I want to know whether Oak Island is the literal English for Russ Bourky ? " " Russ Bourky is wrong, it should be pro- nounced Russ Buarach ; and the English of it is spansel wood," replied Barret, at the same time assuming a degree of importance, from the supposed superiority of his information. " Spansel wood? why there seems to be no sense in this interpretation of yours." " You wouldn't say that, sir," replied Barret, " if you knew the story that gave rise to it, for the island, you must know, was enchanted by O'Donoghue; but may be you don't believe in O'Donoghue, for there are many that comes on the lakes only to make fun of him, when may be they'd better let it alone." The fact was, that Barret had told his fairy tales so often, that constant repetition had all the efficacy of demonstration in impressing upon 134 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. his mind a firm conviction of the truth of his own stories. It was, therefore, necessary to use a little angling art, in order to hide all appear- ance of unbelief, which would infallibly have put a stop to his loquacity. " Why do you say that, Barret ? I'm sure I have as good a right to believe in O'Donoghue as any one else. Be- sides, I feel confident there must have been such a person, since the voice of thousands, and the testimony of tradition, unite to corroborate the fact ; therefore pray tell me the story, for, I assure you, in my heart [ love a legendary tale/' Satisfied, therefore, that I was not an unbe- liever, Barret commenced his story. 66 Why, then," said he, " I suppose you have heard how O'Donoghue, the great prince that lives in the Lake of Killarney, appears but once in every seven years ; but you are not to sup- pose from that, that he puts on his nightcap, and sleeps away all the rest of his time ; on the con- trary, it is well known that, though invisible, he often walks about the lake, its shores, and its islands, visiting every spot which he loved be- fore the time of his enchantment, while he was yet an inhabitant of this upper world. I have myself often heard, while fishing on the lake, the most beautiful music stealing along the water; and though the lake was quite calm in the im- mediate vicinity of my skiff, I have seen it roll- ing in foam at the distance of only a few yards, and have heard the blast of the whirlwind as O'Donoghue swept on his way. Nevertheless, he does not always please with the sweetness of his music, or awe with the terrors of the tempest, but is known sometimes to descend to less digni- fied amusements; delighting at one time to sur- THE UPPER LAKE. 136 prise some bewildered mortal with the magnificence of his palace under the lake, and at other times amusing himself with astonishing the poor moun- taineers by some dexterous deception ; and it is of one of these I am going to tell you. A hem ! " You must know, then, that a long time ago, Tim Curtin, a comfortable farmer, resided in Esknarmlcky Glen, a little to the east of this island. He was reckoned the snuggest man among the hills ; for besides a large tract of mountain, where he had plenty of yearlings and ponys and large flocks of goats, he had a great deal of low land on the banks of the little river Galway, which runs through the glen, where there was good tillage, and a fine stock of milch cows. Valuable as these holdings were, he thought little of them all, in comparison with his daughter Peggy, who was the cleanest, tightest, and pret- tiest girl to be seen from Estnamucky to Lime- rick. Whenever she went to fair, pattern, or berrin, she was sure to draw all the bachelors after her ; while the girls could only vent their anger by finding fault with the colour of her new riband, the fit of her gown, or the cock of her cap. Nevertheless, Peggy Curtin was far from being happy, for she had given her heart to a neighbour's son, who, however worthy, wanted the one thing needful; and Tim Curtin, with all his riches, was a miserly old fellow. So he told her ' that it wasn't for the likes of her to be thinking of such a beggarly boy as Tom Sullivan,' (for that was the name of the young man;) and was always trying to make a match for her with some rich miserly scrub like himself; but, as luck would have it, he was always breaking off about a 136 KILLARNEY LEGEKDS. cow, or a pig, or a horse, more or less, so that Peggy came off clear, with only the fright. " Now Peggy, for all her father's commands, couldn't for the life of her help thinking of Tom Sullivan ; and Tom, somehow or other, was always accidentally in the way, whenever Peggy went down the glen to milk the cows, or whenever the old man happened to be from home. Well, sir, things went on in this way for a long 'time, till at last the old man made up a match for Peggy with the richest man in the country; and, as there was no dispute about pig, horse, or cow, poor Peggy saw no chance of getting off this time. " You may be sure it was she was bronach enough when she heard the news; so she sent word to Tom Sullivan to meet her in the island, to consult about what was best to be done. Now, you must know that in the summer time, when the water is low, this island is joined to the glen by a narrow neck of marshy ground ; and it was a beautiful summer evening when Peggy Curtin tripped lightly across it, and entered the wood in search of her lover, who had arrived before her in his little skiff, and, with a thumping heart, was waiting for her coming. " ' Och, Tom,' said Peggy, as she came up to her sweetheart, ' Och, Tom, it's all over with us now agrah, for my father has made a match for me, for sure and sartin, and I have no way of preventing it ; so I don't know what to do in life, for 'twill break the heart in me to part with you, but it can't be helped.' ' Arrah, then, Peggy/ said Tom, ' arrah, then, Peggy my jewel, don't be talkin of partin, if you wouldn't be after killing me entirely ; but sure I'll be kilt whether or no, if I see you married to another, and go to the THE UPPER LAKE. 137 bad entirely, so I will, and die with fretting.' ' Oh, then/ said he, looking at the lake in the wildness of his grief, ' oh, then, O'Donoghue, if you're alive, as they say you are, wouldn't you take pity on a poor boy, for, sure, it is you that have the riches down in the lake there ; but where's the use in talking, for you can't hear me, and there's an end of the matter, and the more's the pity ?' " While Peggy and Tom were thus bemoaning their hard fate, Tim Curtin, with a spansel in his hand, was standing in the bawn looking at his cows milking, and wondering what was become of Peggy, or where she was gone to ; when, as bad luck would have it, who should come into the bawn but the little gossoon that Peggy sent with the message to Tom ; so when he heard the father asking after her, what should he do, but up and tould him all about it. " Away ran Tim, as mad as blazes ; but no sooner was he got to the middle of the wood, than he was stopped short by the sight of a large tub full of gold ; to be sure, it was O'Donoghue that put it there on purpose, for he knew well enough what kind of a man he was, and had a mind to befriend the young people. Be that as it may, Tim, who, as rich as he was., had never seen so much gold before in all his life, was ready to go mad with joy, and quite forgot Peggy and Tom, and every thing else, in his desire after so much treasure ; but how to remove it he couldn't think, for two of the strongest men in the country would hardly be able to stir the tub, though often he tried with all his strength. And he was afraid, if he went to look for help, that he wouldn't be able to find the place again. At last he bethought himself of the spansel which he held in his hand ; so he tied it 138 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. to a tree, just to mark the place, (for all the trees in the wood were of the same kind ,) and away he run for help as fast as he could. You may be sure the grass didn't grow much under his feet 'till he came back ; but if he was looking from that day to this, he couldn't find the gold again, for the never a tree in the island but had a spansel tied round it. Tim Curtin was quite distracted with the disappointment, and spent all his time looking after the gold ; and it was many a long day before he came to himself. In the meantime Tom Sulli- van grew suddenly to be the richest man in the parish ; and many people suppose that O'Dono- ghue gave him some of the gold, though Tom would never own to it. " When the old fellow recovered the use of his senses, he made no objection to the match, for he saw that Tom was richer than himself. So he was married to Peggy at last, and a great wedding they had of it : and the island is known ever since (as a good right it has) by the name of Russ Buarach, or Spansel Wood. Thunder alive, if there wasn't a great salmon riz ! " exclaimed Bar- ret, " and the day is getting dark, and a fine curl on the water." 139 CHAPTER X. THE DESCENT. LEAVJNG the Oak Island, the new road, and the Heading, behind us, we passed the Bay of New- foundland, and proceeded towards Coleman's Eye, a narrow pass between two rocks, which gives entrance to the river, connecting the Upper with the Middle and Lower Lakes. This pass is so narrow as to oblige the boatmen to draw in their oars. While going through, which was the work of a moment, one of the boatmen exclaimed, " Look there, your honour, there's the print of Coleman's foot, that he left on the rock when he leaped across" and certainly there was a sin- gular impression on the rock, somewhat in the shape of a gigantic foot. " This is, doubtless, the Coleman," said I, " whose leap, Crowley, the mail coach driver, regards as a family boast he seems to have had a very large foot." " O, then, you may give your davy of that," said Doolan, '* and a good right he had to have a big foot of his own, and 'tis he that knew how to handle it any how, after such a leap as that ; for sure he was one of the giants of ould, and he was at war with Fin Mac Cool, who came with his big dog Bran, and all the other giants, to hunt Coleman ; so Coleman was running away from 140 KtT.r.ARNEY LEGEKDS. them, as a good right he had ; and then, when he came to the place that's called after him, he made a leap across, and ran round the lake, and hid himself in the Oak Island, near the Coffin Point but Fin Mac Cool was up to him, for he and all his giants swam across the lake, and there they found my lad; and if they didn't slain him there, 'tis a wonder to me. And, sure, isn't his coffin there ? and isn't the place called Coffin Point? and isn't this called Coleman's Eye, in memory of him ? so it must all be true, or how would they come by their names ?" While Doolan was telling his story, we were floating in a little basin or bay at the other side of the pass, from whence we proceeded along the various windings of the river, the boatmen occa- sionally pointing out particular rocks, to which they had given fanciful names, such as " the Round of Beef," " the Man of War/' " the Can- non, and Cannon Balls" but, Leave we all these, and every varied change Of that broad stream, each named and nameless rock, The long, vast, stony, dark, descending range Of hills, where rove secure the dun deer flock, till we arrive at the extremity of the Long Range, where , the Eagle's Nest towers bold and abrupt above the river, which sweeps suddenly round its base. The cliff, called the Eagle's Nest, is famous for its echoes. As Mr. Weld says, " It is scarcely in the power of language to convey an adequate idea of the extraordinary effect of the echoes under this cliff, whether they repeat the dulcet notes of music, or the loud discordant report of cannon" I will not attempt it. Strange to tell, not- THE DESCENT. 141 withstanding his assertion, Mr. Weld has taxed the powers of language to the utmost, through two or three pages of his volume, to describe the aforesaid echoes. I mean to be more moderate, and therefore merely request the reader to cast an eye on the opposite page, which contains a musical notation of the effect ; and as for the cannon, here it goes bang ! the mountains seem burst- ing with the crash now it rolls, peal upon peal, through their craggy hollows, till at length, dying away in the distance, all seems over hark ! it rises again, other mountains mimic the thunder, and now it is lost in a low growl among the dis- tant hills. " Come, all you brisk and joval swains, What loves to rove the rurial plains, Give ear to me whilst I rehearse, Your pleasing cares give over 'Tis of these hills and valleys round, That's all overgrown with roses, To the Eagle's Nest we will travest, And join our notes with tchoris." " Tchoris, gentlemen, if you please," shouted Doolan. " Whack fol de ri do di do." Tis a song I always sings for the gentlemen I brings to the Eagle's Nest," said Doolan, " and 'twas for myself 'twas composed it was, by Billy the mule I beg his pardon ten thousand times surely I mean Mr. William Sullivan, the poet of Cloghereen." The river on whose stream we floated was some- times broad, deep, and calm, and sometimes inter- rupted by shallows and rapids. Now it wound 142 KILLARtfEY LEGENDS. among the hills, widening into little lakes, and now it became so narrow as scarcely to afford a passage for the boat. " What are you murmuring to yourself, Lynch?" said I, as we proceeded on our way to Dinis Island. " Are these the verses you always repeat for gentlemen whom you bring to the Eagle's Nest ?" " Oh, it's only a foolish stanza from an old poem, which, if you have any desire to hear, I will give you with all my heart. Pass we the joys and sorrows boatmen find, The clear calm lake, the opposing river's roar, The storm, the rock, the gentle favouring wind, The drooping branch, the weed-entangled oar, The joy for whiskey got, the growl for more, The thundering cannon's loud redoubled shock, The bugle's mellow note, when that is o'er, Rousing the echoes of the Eagle's Rock, And There's a hole in the ballad, for I have forgotten the last line, which however is no great loss, as Doolan, I have no doubt, can make up for the deficiency, by telling us a story about the Eagle's Nest. Come, begin, Doolan, begin/' " Why, then, 'tis I would do that same," replied Doolan, " if I knew rightly what to tell your honour. Let me see did your honour ever near how the soldier went to rob the eagle's nest, and take away the young little eagles ? The eagle's nest, as I showed your honour a little while ago, is just on the face of the white rock ; the hole of it is something like an eagle's wing ; and without any doubt a hard job it would be to get at it; but, says the soldier, ' I'll rob it;' says he. ' May be you will why/ says the eagle to iIIE DFSCENT. 143 himself, for he heard every word the soldier said, so he just purtended to fly away out of sight, up into the clouds entirely. When the soldier saw that, ' I have you now,' says he; so with that he lets himself down from the top of the cliff by a big rope, till he came opposite the nest, when just as he was going to lay his hand on the young chaps, who should pop down, out of a thundering cloud, but the ould eagle himself. 1 Good-morrow, mister soldier/ says the eagle, says he, * and what may your business be with me, that you're after taking so much trouble to call at my lodgings this fine morning ?' < Oh, nothing at all, your honour/ says the soldier, for he was amazed to hear the eagle spake, and a little bit frightened, over and above, at the sight of his two bright eyes, with the hooked bake between them, ' nothing at all, your honour, only to see how all the family is, and pay my respects to the young gentlemen.' " ' That's all botheration and blarney/ says the eagle, ' don't think to come the ould soldier over me with that kind of story, for don't I know well enough it was to rob my nest and steal my childer you came, you thief you ? but I'll soon know the ins and outs of it, for I'll just make bold to ax a neighbour of mine, that lives in the rock here Hollo there, Mistress Echo, did this fellow come to rob the eagle's nest ?' " ' To rob the eagle's nest/ says Mistress Echo. " ' There now, do you hear that, you villain you, what have you to say for yourself now ?' says the eagle in a great pet but the soldier, without waiting to answer him, began to climb \p his rope as fast as he could. 144 KILLAIiNEY LEGENDS. " * Not so fast, mister soldier/ says the eagle, * not so fast, my fine fellow; as you came to pay me a visit, 'tis only fair I should show you the shortest way home ;' so with that he gave him a clink over the head with one of his wings, and then with a kick of his claw, sent him down into the river in a jifFy it was well for him, it was into the river he fell, or surely he'd be smashed to bits ; and I'll engage neither he nor any one else minded visiting the eagles to rob them of their young ones, from that day to this." " What in the world, Lynch, are you laugh- ing at so immoderately? What have you got hold of?" " Here," said Mr. Lynch, handing me a scrap of paper, which I perceived had been dropped by Barret, " here, read it." His Honur Mr. Trant, Esquire, Dr. to James Barret, Shoemaker. . s. d. To clicking and sowling Miss Clara .... 2 6 To strapping and welting Miss Biddy .... 1 To binding and closing Miss Mary 1 6 5 Paid, July 14th, James Barret. " Look there, your honour, there's Paddy Clane's Leap," exclaimed Begly, at the same time pointing to a rock on the right bank of the river. THE DESCENT. 145 " You have had wonderful leapers at Kil- larney, Begly but pray what of Paddy Clane's Leap?" " You must know," said Begly, " that Paddy Clane was a quare ould fellow, that kept a public house in Killarney; by the same token, many's the good drop I drank there ; but, as I was saying, Paddy Ciane was a quare fellow, and fond of a joke. So off he sets, of a stag hunt day, from Killarney; and when the boats were all coming up the river, what would they see but Paddy standing on the top of the rock there. c Stop, bys,' says he, * I'm going to leap across/ So, with that, they all stopped to see the big leap, and Paddy kept them there, purtending every minute to leap, then stopping to take off his coat, and then his waistcoat, and so on, making the offer at it ever so often, till the hunt was over, and then he walked away, laughing at the fools and so the place ever since is called Paddy Clane's Leap, though to be sure he didn't leap at all." " A pretty cock and bull story that," said Plunket " why don't you tell about yourself and the lady ? ah, there's where you lost your luck, my boy," at the same time pointing to a snug nook on the left bank of the river, u there's where you lost your luck, and sure you ought to be shot through a wran's quill. A lady, my lady ! eh, Begly !" At this allusion the boat- men seemed highly delighted, and continued to tease poor Begly for the remainder of the day, with " a lady, my lady." Now, though I con- fess myself acquainted with the story which gave rise to this allusion, yet, as a lady is concerned, I beg leave to decline repeating * it ; and shall L 146 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. therefore merely say, as Mr. Weld does on another occasion, that " Those who visit the delightful regions of Killarney may be gratified, if they please, with the recital of this legendary tale/' Now we wheel round by Miss Plummer's Island, and now we come in sight of the old Weir Bridge. Spillane, as a warning to the people on Dinis Island, as usual, sounds, Put down the pot atoes, . m Put down the pot at oes, and the boatmen prepare to shoot the bridge, that is, to be hurried down the rapids, from the old Weir Bridge to Dinis Pool. " Is all right ? Barret, do you take the boat hook, to keep her off the rock ; now, boys, two or three good strokes to give her way now draw in your oars steady there" and away we go " hurrah! hurrah!" we shoot like an arrow into Dinis Pool. " Very well steered indeed, Mister Plunket." From Dinis Pool the river divides one branch, turning to the right, soon enters the Middle Lake ; the other turning to the left, after a longer and more circuitous course between Dinis Island and Glena Mountain, joins the Lower Lake at the beautiful Bay of Glena. OI.B WEIER THE DESCENT. 147 " How are you, Nelly Thompson ?" said Mr. Lynch, as we landed on Dinis Island, to a tall well-looking woman, who, surrounded by her chil- dren, stood on the shore to receive us. " Oh, very well, I thank your honour ; your honour is welcome to Dinis." " Well, Nelly, do you get dinner ready as fast as you can, and, in the mean time, we'll take a walk round the island." " What an enchanting spot! this cottage peep- ing from amid the woods, and commanding so delightful a view of the Middle Lake." We pause for a moment to gaze on Glena, and then the river, rushing under the old Weir Bridge, attracts our notice; hark to its roar amid the rocks how it echoes through the woods of the island ; but, above the roar of the river, and the echoing woods, hark to the welcome notes of Spillane's bugle, warning us to dinner. A delicious dining-room this, with its broad window looking out upon Turk Lake but a truce to lakes, islands, and mountains, waterfalls and echoes, while we employ ourselves on the contents of " the Gorham's" budget ; a budget which, un- like the Chancellor of the Exchequer's, will, I have no doubt, satisfy all parties concerned. Soon after we had dined, Plunket, our cox- swain, made his appearance, and informed us, that if we did not make haste, it would be too late to see Turk Lake properly; and that the boat had been brought round from the river to the shore facing the cottage, where it was ready for us. " Then send Nelly Thompson here," said Mr. Lynch, " till we settle our account with her ; and that done, we will be with you directly." L2 148 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. CHAPTER XL THE MIDDLE LAKE. " WELL, Nelly, what are we to pay you ?" said Mr. Lynch, as Nelly Thompson made her appear- ance. " Oh, nothing at all, your honour nothing in life I won't take any thing from your honour, or any one belonging to you, or any one you ever bring to the island." " But that won't do, Nelly ; you have supplied the boatmen with potatoes, and we have given you a great deal of trouble here is five shillings will that pay you ?" " Oh, then, and sure it will, and long life to your honour," said Nelly, quietly pocketing the money, notwithstanding her assertion that she wouldn't take any thing from his honour. " And sure, then," she continued, " 'tis as good payment as I've had from many a great lord before now. Indeed, then, 'tis myself would as live have a company of tradesmen from the town of Killarney, any day in the year, as some of your poverty- struck quality. Why now, only think, there was the Marquis of Lansdowne came here with a fine band of music and a poet, your honour, that he was taking about the country with him as a show ; for, sure, the people used to run after him where- THE MIDDLE LAKE. 149 ever he went, only to see him. By the same token, he was a little bit of a man, with a rosy face upon him, and an eye that was never quiet in his head an instant, but kept always going going going, and looking now as sharp at you as a hawk, and then as soft as buttermilk. Well, the marquis comes here, and, indeed, down he and the marchioness walk to the kitchen, and her marchioness-ship sets herself by the fireside, and began sprigging a piece of cambric muslin, while he got a handful of praties, and put them between a cloth to steam them for himself. And, after all, what do you think, sir? 'tis no matter; but, in- deed, he didn't give me a five-pound note, which would only be the proper reach to a poor woman from the likes of a prince, as surely the marquis is, for he ouns half Kerry. I'd rather have a tinker from Cloghereen, if he'd pay better, than any of your lords." " Tootytootc too too too." " Come, come, there's Spillane calling us," said Mr. Lynch ; and we were soon gliding over the unruffled surface of the Middle or Turk Lake. As our boat proceeded eastward from the island, the mighty mountain Turk rose on our right, wooded nearly to its pointed summit, and de- scending sheer and abrupt to the water's edge ; while on the other hand we had the rocky and richly variegated peninsula of Mucruss ; behind us lay the wooded islands of Brickeen and Dinis, with its peeping cottage, backed by Glena and the Eagle's Nest ; and before us might be seen the broad brow of Mangerton, with part of the culti- vated demesne of Mucruss, the Green hills, Turk Cottage, and the Devil's Island, rising abruptly between us and the Bay of Dundag. The gentle 150 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. lake lay outstretched like a broad mirror, reflect- ing the varied tints of a beautiful summer's even- ing sky, and those of the wild and noble forms of its surrounding shores. u Look over there," exclaimed Doolan, resting on his oar, and pointing towards Turk Mountain ; " look over there, that's the deepest part of all the lake, where they say the corabuncle is." " Pray, Doolan, what is that you said ?" " About the carbuncle ?" added Mr. Lynch. " Only just that that's the deepest part of the lake," replied Doolan, and that 'tis there the corabuncle is down at the bottom, and, without any doubt, it may be sometimes seen shining up through the water, like a cat's eyes under a bed. Ould Ned Williams dived for it, one day he was out with the ould Lord Kenmare ; but if he did, he was frightened out of his life, with a great big greyhound, that threw out of his mouth flames of fire, and blue blazes, at him under the water ; so that when he came up again, the ould lord, no, nor all the lords in the world, wouldn't get him to go down again." I could not suppress a smile " Very wonder- ful, indeed, Doolan." " May be you don't believe in it," said Doolan, " and may be, you would'nt believe in what hap- pened to myself and Ned Moriarty, of a day when we were little gossoons in West Mucruss over there." " And what was that, Doolan ?" " Oh, then, I'll tell you that Does your honour see the rocks over there, near the ould copper- mine ? well that's O'Donoghue's wine-cellar Ned and myself was down there, one day, look ing for round shtones to make marvels (marbles) THE MIDDLE LAKE. 151 of. ' Ubbubboo, look there/ says Ned, ' sure the wine-cellar, doesn't look the same way it did ever and always.' Up I looks, and sure enough, there was a doorway like one of the ould arches in Mucruss Abbey. ' Let's go in,' says I ; so in we went, and what should we see, but a great cellar full of barrels, on golden stillons ; * Let us take a drop out of one of the barrels/ says Ned ; * To be sure we will/ says I, 'but just as he was going to turn the cock, we hard a nise in the off part of the cellar ; so away we legged, as fast as our ten toes could carry us. When we recovered the fright a bit, we thought it was mighty foolish not to bring something away with us, for a token, if 'twas nothing else ; so we said we'd go back again ; but we lost our luck, for if we was look- ing from that day to this, we couldn't find the ould arch in the rock, nor the big barrels with their golden stillons under them/ " Preparations were now made to land at a little orchard, at the foot of Turk Mountain ; through which orchard, we passed on our way, to examine Turk Cottage, with its garden and shrubbery. From thence, returning to our boat, we followed the eastern shore of Mucruss, till we arrived at the Bay of Dundag, and then, turning to the west, proceeded along the coast of the Peninsula. " There, sir, is the Devil's Island/' said Plun- ket, at the same time calling my notice to a large mass of insulated rock ; between which, and the shore, we were at that moment passing. "The Devil's Island?" said I; "his Satanic majesty, it would seem has a pretty estate in the kingdom of Kerry, for there's the l Devil's Punch- bowl/ * the Devil's Island/ the Devil's Glen/ 152 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " The Cliff of Damnation/' said Mr. Lynch. " But why is this island called the Devil's Island ? do you know the reason, Doolan V 66 Wisha fakes then, I don't," said Doolan, who was seldom at a loss for a reply, " if it wouldn't be because it belonged to the devil himself and sure enough, now I thinks of it, that's the very rason, for they say it wasn't an island always, but that the devil tore it away from the shore, and threw it out there, into the lake, one day, that some of the ould monks from Mucruss were teaz- ing him, and trying to drive him out of the coun- try ; for he thought, as they wouldn't let him live in pace and quietness, when he was on the shore, that he'd have a little island of his own, where he could stay in spite of all the monks in the world; and so he had, and so he did for a long time, playing all sorts of tricks upon them ; till, at last, they got the better of him, and drove him away entirely." " There," said Begly, pointing to some wave- worn rocks, " there is the wine-cellar Doolan was telling your honour about." " And here," said Plunket, " is the marble quarry, and Mucruss mine ; perhaps your honour would like to land, and take a view of Doolagh." " Oh, certainly, let us land," said Mr. Lynch ; " and do you, Plunket, go on with the boat we will meet you at Brickeen bridge." Upon our arrival at Doolagh, I found it was the very lake which I had before seen from the Green hills, and which Roche called Lough-na-brach darrig. It is a beautiful retired pool, in the cen- tre of the peninsula, surrounded by woods, rocks, and gently swelling lawns ; indeed, the Penin- sula is rich in varied beauties. THE MIDDLE LAKE. 153 For here, whate'er boon nature could impart, Sublime, or beautiful, is scatter'd round ; As if to show her triumph over art, The goddess plann'd this favoured spot of ground.* Now hills ascend, now valleys sink profound, Here gleams the near, and there the distant lake, And gentle slopes, and wildwood shaws abound, For ever changing in the forms they take, While mingling music steals from vocal bush and brake. From Doolagh, there is a carriage-road, which runs from Mucruss house, through the whole length of the Peninsula. Sometimes, as we walked onwards through the woods, we caught a glimpse of either lake, sometimes could only hear the murmur of the water, and were occasionally surprised by the sudden appearance of a secluded rock-surrounded bay : our path, now winding among rocks, from whose clefts sprung the arbu- tus, the holly, and the oak ; now ascending, now descending, and (to the shame of those who have charge of Mucruss be it spoken,) sometimes inter- rupted by a marsh ; one in particular, called Lochawn Sloch, or the dirty pool, would have obliged us to turn back, if we had not sent our boat on : thus, being under a necessity of ventur- ing forward, we with some difficulty effected a crossing, and shortly after, emerging from the woods, we stood on Brickeen bridge, which con- * " It was, indeed, a handsome compliment," says Smith, in his history of Kerry, " which was paid to this place, by a late Right Reverend Prelate (Dr. Berkeley, Bishop of Cloyne,) whose high taste, in the beauties of art and nature, as well as goodness of heart, and solid learning, all the world equally admired and acknowledged ; who, being asked what he thought of this seat, immediately answered, that the French monarch might possibly be able to erect another Versailles, but could not, with all his revenues, lay out another Mucrus." 154 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. nects the extremity of the Peninsala, with Brickecn Island. On one side was the Lower Lake, and we were particularly struck with the contrast be- tween its agitated waters, and the calmness of Turk or the Middle Lake, which lay on the other side of the bridge. On either hand a spreading lake doth lie, Each beautiful, I ween, though not the same ; For one beneath the kisses of the sky, Serenely rests in joy, like matron dame, And one, like virgin coy, seems ruffled o'er with shame. Descending from the bridge, we re-embarked, and, passing under its Gothic arch, found ourselves on the Lower Lake, which we began to cross towards Ross Island mine. " Do you recollect Sir Walter Scott's visit to the lakes ?" said I to Plunket. " O then, and sure I ought, for sure it was my- self that steered his lordship. There was a lady, and a couple of gentlemen, with him. The lady was one Miss Edgeworth, and I hard say as how she was a fine writer too entirely, and first came to be thought so through the means of rack rents. But I know this well enough, that 'tis the rack rents are ruining and bedeviling the country com- pletely. A fine vice (voice) she had with her any way, for sure she was singing a song about the big gentleman, ' Row, your sowls, row, for the pride of the highlands/ "I " Oh, you're out there," said Doolan, " 'tis myself can tell the very words of it ' Row, my boys, row, for the pride of the islands/ them were the very words, 1 Stretch to your oars for the evergreen pine !' THE MIDDLE LAKE. 155 And every time the lady would come to ' Row, my boys, row/ then the gentleman, with the long nose and the short chin one Mister Knockhard, I think they called him, would make us all stretch out, and pull away like so many racehorses." " And is this all you recollect, Doolan, about the celebrated Sir Walter Scott, the accomplished Miss Edge worth, and the amiable editor of the Quarterly Review ?" " The never a much more, sir, only the part of the lake Sir Walter liked the best, was the river under Dinis there ; but, sure, he didn't stay half long enough to see any thing worth spaking about; and they say he's no friend to ould Ireland or the Cat'lics, and that's the reason, I suppose, John O'Connell did'nt give him a stag hunt. But 'twas quite another thing when Moore was here there was great doings for him." Here Doolan was interrupted by Plunket, with " You may say that, Doolan ; and only think, sir, he went with my Lord Kenmare in his lordship's own boat, and of course myself was there, seeing I am his lordship's own coxswain. That same Mr. Moore, they say, was a great writer of songs and 'twas her ladyship called him ' the muses' own little darling Irish nightingale/ " " 'Twasn't her ladyship called him so, 'twas the other lady," said Doolan, interrupting Plun- ket in his turn " 'twas her ladyship called him the great 'steric* poet, whatever she meant by it." " Hould your tongue, Doolan, and have some manners with you, will you ?" cried Plunket ; then, looking at me, he continued, " Mr. Moore, sir, was a great writer of songs, and, sure enough, Spillane played some of them for him at. the e, Lyric ? Printer's devil. 156 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. Eagle's Nest ; and he said that it made him quite proud like, and that he'd write a song all about it, and so he did." " And 'tis I that have the very song by heart," said Doolan, whom Plunket's reproof had failed to silence, " for, sure, I got it from a jantleman that was out with us on the lakes one day last summer. " Oh, to hear Spillane play on his bugle so nate, To the sowl of the bard is a wonderful trate ; But when his own song bids the echoes awake, Och, with pride then his heart is quite ready to brake. " For surely that song shall still dwell in the stone, And by strangers be woke, when the bard's dead and gone. And Echo, when axed, by the stranger, who made it, 'Will answer, ' Tom Moore,' for Spillane only play'd it." " I suspect, Doolan, the gentleman was a wag who gave you this silly stuff for Mr. Moore's exquisite poem, which I remember perfectly, and Will repeat, to prove that you have been most im- pudently imposed on. *' 'Twas one of those dreams that by music are brought, Like a light summer breeze, o'er the poet's warm thought, When, lost in the future, his soul wanders on, And all of this life, but its sweetness, is gone. " The wild notes he heard o'er the water, were those To which he had sung Erin's bondage and woes ; And the breath of the bugle now wafted them o'er From Dinis' green isle to Glena's wooded shore. " He listened, while, high o'er the Eagle's rude Nest. The lingering sounds on their way loved to rest, And the echoes sung back, from the full mountain choir, As if loath to let song so enchanting expire. " It seem'd as if every sweet note that died here, Was again brought to life in some airier sphere, Some heaven in those hills, where the soul of the strain, That had ceased upon earth, was awaking again ! THE MIDDLE LAKE. 157 " Oh, forgive, if while listening to music, whose breath Seem'd to circle his name with a charm against death, He should feel a proud spirit within him proclaim, 4 Even so shalt thou live in the echoes of Fame. " ' Even so, though thy memory should now die away, 'Twill be caught up again in some happier day, And the hearts and the voices of Erin prolong, Through the answering future, thy name and thy song !"* By this time we had reached a rude stairs in the embankment, thrown up by the miners on Ross Island, where we landed ; and while I was engaged in looking at the works, Mr. Lynch, in a solemn tone, thus commenced : " My friend," said he, " this was a favourite retreat of mine, before ^the speculating genius of commerce had invaded its solitude. At that time there was indeed the remains of a mine to be seen, but it was a neglected grass-grown spot, full of deep pits, the ancient shafts of the work, whose watery depths appeared to have been, as was traditionally said, unexplored since the days of the Dane. The few ruined buildings which surrounded them served but to give the place a more deserted and melancholy aspect. Here have I sat for hours, gazing on the wide expanse of that beautiful lake, which lay stretched out in all its glory between me and the opposite shores of Mucruss and Glena ; their fantastic caves and wooded crags backed by that noble amphitheatre of mountains. No sounds then disturbed the silence, but the murmur of the waves, or the dis- tant notes of a bugle ; but now all is changed, and I seldom visit this spot since speculation has once more peopled its solitude and re-edified its * These verses are reprinted from the Ninth Number of the Irish Melodies, by permission of Mr. James Power* 158 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. ruined habitations. It is now by far too noisy a spot for me its quiet character has given place to the roar of engines, the din of hammers, and the thunder of explosions." " Very fine, indeed. Lynch is in rather a morbid mood of mind this evening," thought I to myself, but I said nothing, and so we quitted the mine and entered Lord Kenmare's nursery grounds. Through this nursery we walked, then stopped to gaze for a few minutes on its pretty little cottage, and then proceeded to Ross Castle, where we mounted one of Gorham's jingles. " Gee up there" Away we go the driver sing- ing. " Arrah, Neddy, my darling, and where are you jogging, Sure, would you leave Judy, who gave you a noggin Of real Irish whiskey, and offered herself too With thirty thirteens in good English white pelf too ? Arrah, what will I do in this doldrum, och, bother ! If Neddy won't have me, I'll look for another. Sing whillilu, smalilu, Judy, don't pother, If Neddy won't have you, why, look for another." As we approached the town of Killarney, the driver again burst out into song. " If ever I marry again, I'll marry an inn-keeper's daughter ; I'll sit in the bar all the day, Drinking nothing but whiskey and water. Sing tally heigh ho, you know, Sing tally heigh ho the grinder, And if ever a woman says no, 'Tis you are the fool if you mind her." And here we are, safely arrived at the door of Gorham's Hotel. MANGERTON. 159 CHAPTER XII. MANGERTON. " MANGERTON Mangerton what's the matter?" I muttered, as, starting from my sleep, I beheld Mr. Lynch at my bedside. " Mangerton Mangerton," said he, " a fine morning for Mangerton, you have not a moment to lose ; the climate is so uncertain, that though the mountain is clear now, it may be in a short time covered with a huge cloudy nightcap so up and away." Dressing myself in all haste, I bustled down stairs, contrived to bustle through a tolerable breakfast, ordered horses, and was about to bustle off with Mr. Lynch for the mountain, when two or three inn-runners stood before us, with rather more imposing appearance than that of appari- tions, generally speaking, and began to contend for the appointment of " guide to his honour's honour." " I'm his honour's guide," said Leahy; " didn't his honour promise to take me to Mangerton with him, and sure 'tisn't back of his word you'd have the gentleman be going ?" " Tis me his honour will have," said Picket, " so you may just as well not be bothering the gentleman, long life to him." 160 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " Fakes, then, and indeed he won't do no such thing," said Mountain Mahony ; " his ho- nour knows well enough it was I bespoke Man- gerton, the very first day his honour came to Killarney; and sure 'tis I that have, as I ought, the best right to the mountain any how." " Picket," said I, " you know that I promised to take Leahy ; therefore, Leahy, forward if you please." " Well," said Mountain Mahony, heaving a deep sigh as we moved on, " well, did you ever know the likes of that, and I, after waiting so long for him ?" After leaving the village of Cloghereen, we turned to the left, and pursued a narrow road which, passing close to the mill-pond, led up the base of the mountain ; this road, however, we soon abandoned for a mountain path that struck off to the right, and shortly brought us to the foot of the steep ascent, up which our horses managed to climb by a sort of rude track that ran along the bank of a ravine, which had been the bed of a torrent, almost until we ar- rived at the Devil's Punchbowl. On our ascent, and his descent, we met one of that class of peasants, termed in the country " Kerry dragoons," who, seated in a most extra- ordinary manner between his baskets, which each contained a firkin of butter, galloped fearlessly down the mountain, without seeming to have the smallest apprehension for his neck. I have stated that each basket contained a firkin of butter; and, upon this subject, Mr. Weld says, he " was informed by a friend, that when he first visited Kerry, at which period im- provement and civilization were in their infancy, MANGERTOX. 161 it was very usual to see a cask of butter on one side, and a large stone on the other to ba- lance it; but it has since been discovered that one cask is the best counterpoise to another, and every horse is now doubly laden." Very true, indeed ! but did Mr. Weld think of asking how people were to manage who had only one cask to take to market ? Dismounting from our horses, we gave them in charge to a mountaineer, of whom several had followed us in the expectation of reward for any accidental employment, each assuring us that he, and he alone, was the true " man of the moun- tain." We then proceeded to examine the Devil's Punchbowl, a mountain lake, remarkable only for its depth, the coldness of its water, and a cer- tain small but tremulous echo. Climbing the southern side of " the bowl," which is the highest part of Mangerton, we passed by a spot where hones are dug for and found, and from thence advanced, by the summit of the mountain, to the eastern verge of the lake. "Here's a scene for description?" said Mr. Lynch " Look to the south, and tell me if here is not a noble prospect ? the river Kenmare, that huge arm of the ocean, stretching itself for miles and miles between those blue hills that rush down to its very edge, as if they meant to kick it out of its channel. See how its waves glitter in the bright sun -beams, which have struggled through that heavy cloud ; and do but observe those islands which dot its broad bosom, like the beauty spots on your fair lady's cheek. " Look to the west," continued Mr. Lynch, mimicking the voice and action of a show-man, * and behold Ireland's boast, and Kerry's wonder M 162 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. the beautiful Lakes of Killarney mark that river winding its course among the mountains, from lake to lake, and uniting the wide-spread grandeur of the one with the compressed charms of the other. And there behold Lord Brandon's round tower, at the head of the Upper Lake. Be- hold the sea of mountains rolling their rugged waves to the east and to the west. One might really fancy that the country which we view had been a stormy sea, struck by the mighty wand of a magician, and fixed for ever. And then the little mountain lakes, how they sparkle over this waste, like stars in the gloomy firmament." Here Mr. Lynch paused, and then resumed, " I have taken the trouble to ascend Mangerton this morning to be show-man to your honour, but one sentence more must finish my description. Look to the north, and behold the white smoke of the town of Killarney, with a green hill behind it, and the blue distant mountains of Tralee shutting up the scene with their vast, cloudy, and qim- discovered forms." " Thank you very much, Lynch. We now stand on the ridge which forms the eastern verge of the Devil's Punchbowl : pray what is this glen beneath us called? Though a work of danger, I should like to descend." "It is called Cowm na Coppul or the Glen of the Horse," replied Mr. Lynch ; " but before we proceed to explore it, let me recommend a sand- wich, after which I will detain you five minutes to listen to a story, the scene of which being placed in the Horse's Glen, may, perhaps, render your visit more interesting." To both these proposals I readily assented ; a few sandwiches were produced, we sat down, and, MANGERTON 163 after their disappearance, Mr. Lynch commenced as follows : " There was once a poor man who rented a few stony acres on a little hill at the foot of Manger- ton "Mountain, in the kingdom of Kerry. Now the kingdom of Kerry, and the great mountain of Mangerton, with the Devil's Punchbowl on the top of it, are as well known as any other wonder in the world ; but the wonderful adventures of Billy Thompson, (for this was the name of the poor man I have mentioned,) and his cow, being as little known as if they never had occurred, I will proceed to relate them, to the confusion of all who are so hardy as to doubt the power of the good people. " You must know then, that Billy was a little fellow, about five feet nothing high, and as smart and as tight a boy was he as any man of his inches, no matter who the other is. And what was better than all this, Billy was a very indus- trious, hard - working lad ; and, by the same token, a very good proof he gave of it, for his bit of ground, when he got it, was powdered all over with huge stones, so that a weasel could hardly thrust his snout between them ; and over these again there was a thick coat of furze, so that the whole place looked for all the world like a great green hedgehog. But Billy had a long lease and a short rent, so he went to work with all his might and main, and burned the furze, and made fences of the stones, and built himself a cabin on the top of the hill, and a mighty bleak place it was to build it on. However, Billy didn't much mind that, for if he had a little body, he had a great soul, and scorned to be looked down upon by any one ; besides, he was fond of a prospect, and, if he was, he had it to his heart's content. M 2 164 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " No sooner had Billy Thompson his bit of land cleared, his potatoes sown, and his cabin built, than he began to think it was high time to look for a wife. Before long he was married to Judy Donoghue of Glanflesk, who got a good fortune from her father, it being no less than a feather bed, six rush-bottomed chairs, an iron pot, a settle-bed, a collop of sheep, a Maol cow, and a pig, though there was great huxtering about this last matter, and the match was broken off at least six times on account of it ; but Billy stood out stoutly for the pig, till the old man gave in at last, and so they were married. " It's an old saying, and a true one, that ' there are more married than keep good houses/ as Billy soon found to his cost; for Judy was very prolific, presenting him occasionally with two youngsters at a time, till at last it was said of Billy, as of the wren, ' although he's little, his family's great/ Now it happened unfortunately for Billy, that while Judy was increasing his family, one mis- fortune after another was decreasing his stock ; his sheep died of the rot, and his pig got the measles, so that he was obliged to sell it for little or nothing. * Well,' said Billy, who was a good-humoured fellow, and wished to make the best of every thing; ' Well, it can't be helped, so there's no use in breaking one's heart, and any how, we can't want the drop of milk to our praties as long as the Maol cow's left to com- fort us.' The words were hardly out of his mouth, when Paddy Glissane came running up to tell him that the Maol cow was clifted in the Horses' Glen ; for Billy, you must know, had sent his cow that very morning to graze on the mountain. MANGERTON. . 165 " < Och ! Ullagone ! ' cried Bill, * what'll we do now at all, we're ruined for ever and a day. Och, Maol ! how could you be such a cruel unnatural baste, as to clift yourself, you that I tought was as cunning as a Christian, when you knowed as well as myself that we couldn't do without you at all ; for sure enough the childer will be crying for the drop of milk to their praties ; and Judy '11 leech the life out of me for sending you to the mountain, and she agin it all along.' " Such was Bill Thompson's lament, as, with a sorrowful heart, he made the best of his way to the Horses' Glen, intending to get the hide of his clifted cow, and conceal the carcase under some rock, until he could borrow a horse to bring it home; for, thought he, ' 'tis better to have some- thing than nothing, and there'll be a good price got for the skin surely, and the mate'll make fine broth for the grawls (children) any how.' " The sun was riding high by the time he got into the Glen, and then it took him some time before he could find where the poor beast was lying, but at last he did find her, all smashed to pieces at the foot of a big rock. ' Worse, and worse ! there'll be hardly any thing got for the skin, and the mate's scarcely worth a thraneen (a straw,) but where is the use to make bad worse '?' said Bill ; and he began to skin the cow as fast as he could, but having no one to lend him a hand, by the time the job was finished, the sun had gone down. A faint light, however, still streaked the top of the mountain, while the hollow of Cown na Coppul was thrown into deep shadow by the rocky precipices which enclosed it ; a low wind murmured along the dark breast of the fathomless pool, which lay in the bottom of this 166 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. mountain valley, and its waters answered to the night breeze with a deep and hollow growl, as the black waves rolled sluggishly against their bounds. From the south-eastern verge of the water, the mountain rose steep and abrupt, but made a some- what wider sweep to the west ; so that in this place there was a marshy plain between the pool, and the wall-like hill, which towered above it ; this plain was strewed all over with huge gray rocks, that looked in the dim twilight like so many spectres. " Now, Billy Thompson was so intent on his job, that he did not perceive the lapse of time ; but, when his work was finished, he raised his head, and, looking about, was surprised at the lateness of the hour ; and when he heard the murmuring wind, mingled with the hoarse reply of the dark and sluggish pool, multiplied as these sounds were by a thousand hill-born echoes, his heart failed him, for his imagination converted these sounds into the aerial whisperings of the fanciful beings, with which his fears had already peopled the recesses of the gray and shadowy rocks which surrounded him. All the tales he had ever heard, of the Pooka, the Banshee, and the little red-cap'd mischievous fairy, floated through his mind ; when, by an effort expecting to end his fears, he suddenly snatched a tuft of grass, wiped his knife, and seized hold of the reeking hide, intending to make the best of his way out of the Glen. " It is well known, that a four-leaved sham- rock has the power to open a man's eyes to all sorts of enchantment, and it so happened, that there was one in the little tuft of grass, with which Billy had wiped his knife. Whether from grief, or fear, or from both together, I know not ; MANGERTON. 167 Dut instead of throwing it away, he put the grass into his pocket along with the knife ; and when he turned to take a last lingering look at the carcase of his cow, he beheld, instead of his poor Maol, a little old curmudgeon sitting bolt upright, and looking as if he had just been flayed alive. If Billy was frightened at the sight, it was still worse with him, when the little fel- low called after him in a shrill squeaking voice, * Bill Thompson ! Bill Thompson ! you spalpeen, you'd better come back with my skin ; a pretty time of day we're come to, when a gentleman like me can't take a bit of a sleep, but an Ounshaugh of a fellow must come and strip the hide off him ; but you'd better bring it back Bill Thompson, or I'll make you remember how you have dared to skin me, you spalpeen.' " Now, Billy Thompson, though he was greatly frightened at first, had a stout heart of his own in him ; so he began to muster up his courage, for he saw it was a clear case, that his Maol cow was carried away by the good people, and he thought if he was stiff with the little cur- mudgeon, he might, may be, get her back again ; besides, if the worst came to the worst, he thought he could safely defy him, as he had a black-handled knife in his pocket; and whoever has that, 'tis said, may look all the ghosts and fairies in the world full in the face, without quaking. Billy Thompson, therefore, took heart, and, seeing there was a civil distance between them, he began to discourse the little fellow; at the same time, however, keeping his hand on the black-handled knife, for fear of accidents. " ' Why then, your honour, if it's the skin you're after wanting, you must know it's the skin of my 168 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. poor Maol cow, that was clifted yonder there; the Lord rest her sowl, for a better baste never walked on four legs, 'tis a long day till I see the likes of her again; and sore and sorrowful the childer will be for the want of her little drop of milk; but it can't be helped, and there's no use in talking ; so God be wid your honour, any how ;' said Billy, as he pretended to take his departure. " i Why then, is that what you'd be after, Billy ma boughill' (my boy ;) said the little imp, at the same time jumping before him with the speed of a greyhound ; * do you think I'm such a go- mal as to let you walk off with my skin, with- out so much as * by your lave.' But I'll tell you what it is ; if you don't drop it in the turn of a hand, you'll sup sorrow, may be.' . " ' Badershin !' said Billy, at the same time, drawing out his black-handled knife, and putting himself in a posture of defence ; ' may be you will, but the never a one of me will give you the skin, till you give me back my Maol cow; for don't I know well enough that she wasn't clifted at all, at all, and that you, and the breed of you, have got hould of her.' " ' You'd better keep a civil tongue in your head any how/ said the little fellow, who seemed to get quite soft at the sight of the knife, ' and how do you know but I'd befriend you, for you're a stout fellow, Bill Thompson, and I've taken a fancy to you ; so if you'd just be after giving me the skin, I don't say but I might get you the cow again.' " ' Thankee kindly for the loan of your pickaxe/ said Billy, winking slily ; * give me the cow first, and. then I will.' MANGERTOtf. 169 " * Well, there she's for you, you unbelieving hound !' said the little imp. And for certain what would he hear, but his Maol cow screeching behind him for the bare life ; for he knew the screech of her among a thousand ; and when he looked be- hind, what should he see but his cow, sure enough, running over the rocks and stones, with a long spansel hanging to one of her legs, and four little fellows with red caps on them, hunting her as fast as they could. " There'll be a bit of a battle for her, Billy, said the little curmudgeon, there'll be a bit of a battle for her; two of the boys that are after her, belong to another faction ; so, do you see, while, they are fighting about her, you can drive her away fair and easy, and no one will be a bit the wiser of it, barring myself but I'll be no hin- derance to you, and that's more than you deserve from me, Billy Thompson.' " * My jewel you are!' said Billy, quite de- lighted with the hope of getting his cow again, though he was half afraid the little fellow in- tended playing him false, and he didn't much believe what he said. Nevertheless, it was all true enough, for no sooner did the four little chaps with the red caps come up with one an- other, than they began to fight. In the mean time, the Maol cow, finding herself at liberty, .ran towards Billy, who lost not a moment, but, throwing the skin on the ground, seized the cow by the tail, and began to drive her away as fast as he could. " * Not so fast, Billy/ said the little imp, who stuck close by his side ; < not so fast, Billy, for though I gave you the cow, I didn't give you the spansel that's hanging to her leg/ 170 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. see ' I'll just be after calling the boys that are fight- ing below there, and five to one will be more than a match for you, Billy Thompson, as cunning as you think yourself with that black-handled knife. But I don't want to be too hard on you, so if you have a mind for the spansel, I'll give you it for the little tuft of grass you have in your pocket/ " " < It's done,' said Billy, who by this time had got to the top of a cliff, from whence he could see his own farm, in the distance, shining in the clear moonlight, while directly beneath him lay the deep hollow of Cown na Coppul, where the four red-capped fairies were fighting away as fierce as ever the Black hens and Magpies fought. Now Billy Thompson was fond of a bit of a skirmish, and was sure to be seen at the head of his faction on a fair day, when he often flourished his stick in triumph. So finding himself at a safe distance, he thought it no harm to stop a bit, just to see how the good people handled a blackthorn. " If he loved a real battle, there was one that matched him completely, for the glen resounded again with the shouts of the fairies, and the clash of their sticks. But there was one of the little fellows who fought ten times better than all the rest, striking double-handed blows right and left ; till Billy, in the delight of his heart, quite forget- ting his cow and the necessity of silence, shouted as loud as he could, ' Well done, redcap ! Here's a Thompson ! here's a Thompson for redcap ! ' The glen echoed with the deep tones of his voice, and the astonished combatants, looking up, perceived the cause of their contention MANGERTON. 171 was gone, and set off at full speed to recover the cow. " * You're done for now, Billy Thompson,' said the little imp, who stood near him, ' but lose no time in giving me the tuft of grass, and I'll lend you a lift/ < There, take it/ said Billy.' No sooner was it out of his hand, than he received a blow, which in a moment dashed him to the ground with such force, that he was quite stunned. When he came to himself, the sun was shining ; and where should he be but lying near the bounds ditch of his own farm, with his Maol cow grazing beside him ; and to be sure he would never have got her again, or have come off so well, if it wasn't for the four-leaved shamrock and the black - handled knife. " Billy Thompson could hardly believe his eyes, and thought it was all a dream, till he saw the spansel hanging to his cow's leg ; and that was the lucky spansel to him, for, from that day out, his cow gave more milk than any six cows in the parish ; and Billy began to look up in the world, and take farms, and purchase cattle, till at last he became as rich as Darner ; but the world would never after get him to go to the Horses' Glen. And he never passes a fort, or hears a blast of wind, without taking off his hat, with a 'God save ye, gentlemen,' in compliment to the good people ; and 'tis only right for him so to do, if there be any truth in Moll Bardin, who told me the whole story just as she says it happened, and as I have related it." " As we intend returning through the Glen of the Horse," said Mr. Lynch, " we had better despatch a messenger with orders to have our steeds taken to the foot of the mountain and now for our perilous descent." 172 KILLARNET LEGENDS. This we accomplished by sitting and sliding down into the hollow of Cown na Coppul, of which it becomes unnecessary for me to say any thing further, in the way of description, after Mr. Lynch's story. A toilsome walk brought us to the foot of the mountain, where, finding our horses, we rode towards the village of Cloghereen. Here I may be permitted to remark, that who* ever undertakes to ascend Man^erton, should be provided with a well-stored basket of prog ; since there a man can get nothing to eat but stones, which are rather indigestible; and nothing to drink, but a drop out of the Devil's Punch-bowl cold, comfortless stuff it is ! Now, though we we were not quite so foolish as to ascend Man- gerton without any supply, yet the keenness of the mountain air was such, that our small stock of provisions soon proved rather an insufficient offering to the cravings of the inward man ; your little trifling sandwiches are not the thing ; and unless the reader takes some more substan- tial food with him, when he proceeds on a similar excursion, I stake my reputation as a traveller, on the fact, that he will make as much haste to the next inn, as we did to Paddy Glissane's public- house in the village of Cloghereen. THE STAG HUNT. 173 CHAPTER XIII. THE STAG HUNT. THE first beams of the rising sun had just crept in lines of brilliant light through the crevices of my window shutter, when I awoke from a profound and dreamless sleep : with a few yawns I suc- ceeded in attaining a consciousness of existence ; in other words, I was wide awake, and sensible of some unusual stir and bustle in the Inn. Listen- ing for some time to catch a stray w r ord, which might discover the cause of this confusion, I at length plainly distinguished the rough voice of Doolan O'Donoghue in high dispute with the waiter. " Thunder an' tear an' ouns," said he, " is it to have his honour lose the stag hunt, and he so lucky to have one, when it wasn't expected at all? and how should his honour expect it when he wasn't here at the races' week, when there's always sure to be a couple of them ? but since his honour has the luck to have a stag hunt, all as one as if it was given out on purpose for him, I'll take care he shan't lose it ; so I say there is no use in argufying, you must wake his honour, and tell him that Doolan is waiting to know if he'll h'lve his ould crew." 174 KILLARtfEY LEGENDS. " I tell you I won't do no such thing" said the waiter ; " for didn't the gentleman bid me not to wake him, because why ? he was mortal tired after going up Mangerton." O, ho ! a stag hunt, thought I, Doolan is in the right, it would never do to lose a stag hunt. So hastily jumping out of my bed, I threw open the shutters, and having partially dressed myself, rung the bell, which immediately put an end to the dis- pute, by bringing the waiter to my door, whom I ordered to procure my old boat and crew, and to have every thing in readiness for the stag hunt. I hastened down to breakfast, in order to be early in the field ; for, on looking out, 1 perceived Killarney was already sending forth its hundreds, all anxiously hurrying to enjoy the sport. A stag hunt creates quite a sensation in Killarney; on such occasions the town pours forth almost its whole population, even many of the old women disdaining to be left behind. It was all life and animation ; the whole place was in commotion with the rattling of carriages and jaunting cars, crowded with " beardies and brushes" (so, in Kil- larney phrase, are dandies and artists termed,) lakers and their ladies : and well corded to each vehicle appeared huge baskets of provisions. Blue-jacketed boatmen were seen running to and fro, in all the spirit-stirring energy of business ; in fact, It was the morning of a glorious day ; At dawn the trackers of the deer were out, And mann'd each pass above Glena's lone bay, To keep the red deer down with frequent shout. The merry town pour'd forth its giddy rout, Down to the quay of Ross they rush amain And not only to the quay of Ross did they rush, THE STAG HUKT. 175 but, seeing it was impossible to procure boats for such a multitude, hundreds, rather than lose the sport, determined to walk round by the new line of road ; and not a few set out mounted on their own good steeds, while their wives and daughters, crowding jingle and jaunting car, passed swiftly by the more humble cart, with its usual accom- paniment of bed and quilt, for the accommodation of less wealthy or less aspiring folk. The important business of breakfast despatched, and having been joined by my friend Mr. Lynch, we proceeded to mingle with the crowd who were hurrying towards the place of embarkation, on the Island of Ross. Arrived at Ross, we found a wide-spreading fleet, of all sorts and sizes of boats, from the eight- oared barge to the light skiff and paddled canoe. The band of the Kerry militia occupied a large boat, as this was a fete given in honour of the accomplished Countess Kenmare, for whom, and for " John O'Connell" (so I was informed,) the fleet were then waiting ; Mr. O'Connell generally on such occasions being commander-in-chief. In a few minutes his six-oared barge was seen ap- proaching; indeed, it would have been impossible to mistake it, for the green flag of Ireland flut- tered at its stern, upon which might be discovered, embroidered in large characters, ERIN GO BRAGIJ, Then the barge itself was green, ornamented with a stripe of virgin white and a running wreath of shamrocks, with which also the oars were deco- rated from top to bottom. The portly form of Mr. O'Connell himself, as he stood most majestically steering his patriotic barge, was soon recognised. He was greeted, as rnay be supposed, with a mighty shout, after which 176 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. he issued a general order that no boat should go ahead of the Earl of Kenmare's, which just then made its appearance, and immediately proceeded to lead on the fleet. Lo, off they push with shout and music's swell, . A fairy fleet upon an island sea, Wide flash'd the water as the light oars fell, Answer'd the boatman's song, the buoyant glee Of hearts full set on mirth and revelry ; And many a streamer gay is floating there, With rainbow colours and embroidery, Wide waving on the gently breathing air, That seemM in love to fan a scene so bright and fair. As we glided by the wild and rocky shores of Ross, several sail-boats started from the nooks and corners where they had harboured, and, un- furling their white wings to the wind, flew swiftly on before the breeze, adding greatly to the beauty and effect of the scene ; the waves sparkling be- fore their prows, their sails now glancing in the sun, and now beautifully contrasting their snowy hue with the darkness and majesty of some frown- ing rock or hill. Thus did the little fleet pass gaily on till we came to the entrance of the river between Brickeen and Glena ; here the sail-boats were abandoned, and here commenced struggle and confusion, boat thwarting boat in the windings of the river ; now an oar entangled 'mid the weeds, and now a boat run aground, until we gained Dinis' Pool, where the company were landed on the Glena bank, while the boats were being hauled up the rapids under the old Weir Bridge. It was an animated sight, when standing on the bridge, to view the efforts of the boatmen dragging their respective barges against the stream ; and THE STAG HUNT. 177 then to behold the gay groups, each after the other, emerging from the covert of rock and wood, and approaching that part of the river where they were to re-embark, and where boat after boat, as it surmounted the rapids, took in its company, and proceeded up the river. The whole fleet being assembled under the Eagle's Nest, the hills man- ned to keep the deer down to the river, and the hounds and huntsmen up in the hollow between Glena and the Eagle's Nest, where the deer lay which they had tracked for some days before, silence reigned around, every one anxiously wait- ing the signal shot. Those who had walked or rode, now covered every rock and height on the banks of the river, and many even had forsaken their boats in order to have a better view from the shore. Behold the congregated rocks, whose groups, Like islands, stand along the river's side, Are covered o'er with gay expectant troops Of youths, and dainty dames in flaunting pride. But beside these there were many who joined business with pleasure. There was the fruit girl with her basket of apples ; and as it is not in the nature of things that at an Irish merry-making the all important whiskey should be forgotten, many women might be seen handing the " cruiskeen lawn" among the crowd, while the huxter, with her sieve full of dillisk, bread, and biscuits, was all as ready to appease the cravings of hunger. Sundry old ladies were there, who had been pru- dent enough to bring their own stores, and might be seen in many a snug spot drawing forth the home- baked loaf and pocket bottle, glancing in the sun, to regale both herself and crony. And now all is ready. 178 KILLAHNEY LEGENDS. Hark to the signal shot ! the mountain's roar ! The burst of that brave pack ! the frequent shout The watchers on the hills begin to pour, As bursts the red deer from the wild woods out ! Lo ! down he dashes through that giddy rout, With glancing eye and antlers' branchy pride, While fast the big round tears begin to spout ; One moment stands he by that river's side, Looks, lingering, up the hills, then plunges in the tide. After the first burst, every eye was strained to get a view of the stag. " There he is" " No"- " Whisht, ye'll see him in a minute" " Hark, that's O'Sullivan's cry ringing through the hills" " There GeofTry Lynch makes his appearance"- " And now John O'Connell's huntsman," were the various exclamations from every side. Sometimes the stag makes his escape up the mountains, leading hound and hunter a long and weary chase. On this occasion, however, matters were better managed ; for the stag, after several vain attempts to ascend, made his appearance, and ran along the river's side for nearly a mile, in full view of the boats and those on the shore, till, find- ing himself too closely pressed by the hounds, he plunged into the river. Then came the struggle, the chase, and the race, for the honour of taking him, which was at length done by Mr. O'Connell. A handkerchief was bound round the poor animal's eyes, his legs tied, and, thus secured, he was lifted into the boat. The boat then put in to the shore, in order to allow every one a peep at the stag; to obtain which, the fleet gathered round, and all hurried towards one point on the shore, where soon stood nobility and mobility, huntsman and peasant, indiscriminately grouped together. Close to Mr. O'Connell's barge was that of the Earl Kenmare, into which stepped the round, THE STAG HUNT. 179 rosy, and reverend Lord Brandon, at the same time, apparently, addressing some courtly compli- ments to the Lady Kenmare then there was the good Lord Headley with his famous piper, and my worthy friend Gandsey. The Herberts of Caher- nane, with the union jack, in despite of the admi- ralty regulation, floating at their stern. And around these, and other first rates, crowded the small fry, anxious to catch the looks and the words of their superiors. Amidst the confused murmur of this strange assembly, a distinguished orator arose to present Lady Kenmare with the tip of the stag's ear, which he did, accompany- ing the action with a speech, that fully entitled him to his popular appellative of " the silver tongued." " I feel," said he, " I feel" and there was a general shout " this to be the proudest most glorious moment of my existence ; indeed, words can never sufficiently express the intense depth of my happiness in thus having the honour to pre- sent the wild monarch of the hills to the beautiful, all-accomplished, most lovely, and superlative lady of our lakes." Here the speaker placed his right hand on his left breast, waved a white cam- bric handkerchief, looked around for applause, and then performed a graceful bow. The fleet now began to drop down the river, as the stag was to be released in Glena Bay, from whence they were to proceed to Innisfallen, where the evening was to be closed with feast and dance. A lively scene ensued on the arrival of the fleet at the old Weir Bridge. Dinis and the shores were covered with people, waiting to behold the boats shoot the bridge ; and, as we were nearly the first to perform this feat, we had an opportu- N 2 180 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. nity of seeing the others descend. Down came boat after boat ; some striking against the rocks, and nearly overset ; others steering clear of all obstructions ; among which number was my friend Plunket, who, being coxswain to the Earl Ken- mare, had been obliged to leave me, in order to pilot his lordship. I had, however, no cause to complain, so well did honest Tim Lyne supply Plunket's place. As each boat descended, the crew gave a shout, which was answered from the shores ; and then all proceeded on to Glena Bay, where being ranged at each side of Mr. O'Con- nell's barge, the stag was freed. The gallant stag is ta'en, the chase is o'er The sturdy rowers urge the flying boat Within Glena's lone fairy bay once more That joyous fleet doth in its glory float, As calm as skiff upon some castle's moat : And there they set the antler'd monarch free, With shout, and loud halloo, and bugle note ; Proudly he stems the wave, right glad to see His native wilds once more, and be at liberty. Shortly after freeing the stag, the whole fleet put into Innisfallen, with colours flying, and the band playing. Upon landing, the different par- ties dispersed about the island, where they formed themselves in little groups, to partake of the col- lations they had brought with them. Dinner over, some perambulated the walks, others seated on the shore, enjoyed the scenery, and listened to the distant notes of music ; while by far the greater part amused themselves with dancing on the green turf near the banqueting-house, where the Kerry band were stationed, and not a few of the young men displayed their skill in a rowing match around the island. THE STAG HUNT. 181 " Glanced many a light caique along the foam, Danced on the shore the daughters of the land/' Upon this scene the moon arose broad and bright. " That's fortunate for you," said Mr. Lynch ; " for it would be a sad thing to go away, without a moonlight row on the lake ; suppose I order the men to pull us to Glena Bay, and from thence back to Ross." Departing for Glena, we glided gently across the moonlit waters. If I were writing a novel, here would be the place for pictorial sentiment ; but as I am not, and as Mr. Weld has given a wondrous description of Glena as seen by moon- light, I shall merely say that Glena, always romantic and beautiful, is rendered doubly so by moonlight and music. Oh then, at such an hour to sail along The silver'd waters by some mountain's side, Whose trees shall rustle overhead a song Bassed by the murmur of the chafing tide, By the breeze brought, and echo multiplied Oh then, at such an hour amid such sounds, To sail with her, your own your gentle bride But truce to such dreams they are over. On our return homewards, Thady Begly com- menced whistling the exquisite old melody of Aileen a roon. Although no air is more fami- liar to me, in my mood of mind at the instant I felt charmed with its wild simplicity ; the sound ,of every note went directly to my heart ; till Doolan suddenly checked my enjoyment by placing his hand on Begly 's mouth. " Why then," said he, " don't be after going to whistle that diabolical tune, for sure and sartin there's something diabolical in it ; and 'twill be 182 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. many a long day till you whistle it again, when you hear the whole story about it. " You must know then, that Father Phill Clan- cey happened one day to be in Killarney about a little business of his own, and was kept by one thing or another, till the night came on ; a des- perate dark night it was ; so as there was no use in attempting to go home, he was obliged to content himself with a snug lodging, and a smoking tumbler of whiskey punch. Well, just as he was mixing the second tumbler, word was brought him, that Moll Barry of Claunteens was at the last gasp, and that she couldn't leave the world in pace, if Father Phill didn't give her the blessed sacrament. Now, Father Phill didn't like to leave his warm tumbler of punch and snug room, and small blame to him for that ; but if it was a Turk, how could he refuse him, and he at the last gasp ? let alone Moll Barry, who was a relation of his own, and a good Christian. So seeing there was no help for it, up he gets on his bit of a pony, and away he gallops along the Castle Island road, as fast as the dark would let him. It wasn't long till he passed the park-gate, and the little bridge over the Dinah, and, to make a long story short, he got on well enough till he came to the ould fort at Knockeen Dubh a lonesome place it is, and they say the good people live in it ; and sure enough there's a sort of a cave covered over with smooth flags in the middle of it. But be that as it may, 'tis sartin that when Father Phill came to the fort, he heard the most beautifullest music in the world, so that he couldn't, for the life of him, help standing to listen ; well, all at once, the music stopped, and two of the finest voices that was ever hard before 01 THE STAG HUNT. 183 since, begun to tune up Aileen a roon in prime style. If Father Phill was pleased with the music, he was much better pleased with the song; so, after listening for some time, he thought he'd just ride into the fort, and see who it was that was singing so beautiful entirely. Well, fakes if he did, the moment he got into the fort what should he see but two great mastiffs of bull-dogs, sitting overright one another, and singing for the bare life ; and no sooner did his reverence make the sign of the cross, than away they flew in a flame of fire, and Father Phill, setting spurs to his pony, galloped on as fast as he could. It wasn't long till he came to the house at Claunteens ; but he was the day after the fair, for poor Moll Barry was dead and gone; and then he knew well enough that it was the devil himself (the Lord presarve us !) that stopped him at the ould fort, to prevent his giving the poor woman the blessed sacrament. So you see it's no wonder that I don't like to hear a Christian whistling the devil's tune. For 'tis as true a story, as that you are sitting there ; and didn't I hear it word for word out of Father Phill's own mouth ? and sure I wouldn't go to belie him, now that he's dead and gone, for 'tis not my way, you see." As Doolan concluded his story, we had reached Ross Quay, where we found numbers, who like ourselves had just landed, and were hastening home to Killarney. Indeed, the rattle of jingles and coaches was to the full as great as it had been in the morning ; and we, not to be behind- hand with the rest, contributed our share, by mounting one of Gorham's vehicles, and jingling it away to the town; Spillane all the time playing on his bugle, with might and main. 184 K1LLARNEY LEGENDS. " You had better stop, Spillane," said Mr. Lynch, as we approached Killarney ; " you know, we have some very antimusical magistrates." " I believe," replied Spillane, " they'll let musi- cians alone again, as long as they live ; for wasn't there Mr. Dumass, more strength to his elbow, and more wind in his bellows ! and didn't Mo- riarty, for the same reason, prosecute Blake, the captain of the Peelers, and make him pay the piper, with a vengeance ? it was a dear song to him, any how/' Scarcely had we entered the town, when our ears were assailed by a most tremendous uproar. " Here's a Barry' 7 " Here's a Leary" " Five pounds for a Barry's head" " Ten pounds for a Leary" " Here's up-street for Barry" " Here's down-street for a Leary" resounded through the town. " Spillane, what's all this uproar about ? the stag-hunt whiskey seems to be stirring among the good people of Killarney." " O sir, it's only a bit of a skirmish between up-street and down-street, and the faction of the Barrys and Learys ; it's nothing to what they used to have long ago, when one part of the town fought against the other, with old scythes and swords and stones ; and the women used to come behind a man, with a parcel of stones in an old stocking, and knock him as dead as a herring." Presently there came a cry of " The Peelers" " The Peelers" and immediately three or four green-coated, black-belted horsemen, with a fiery magistrate at their head, dashed into the thick of the crowd ; and after some time, succeeded in putting an end to the fray. " Why then," said a gigantic countryman, who THE STAG HUNT. 185 stood near me ; " why then, isn't it a mortal shame for Mr. Galway to drive among the people at that rate ? how does he know, but he'd kill the poor craters, and they as thick as midges ? 'tis long till Mr. Cashell would do the likes, any how." "And who is this Mr. Cashell?" said I, to Spillane. " He's a good gentleman, and a magis- trate, sir; and has a beautiful good lady to his wife ; her own name is Wilson ; she came from Scotland, and has a brother that is a great writer, and a fine poet." " Oh, then, she is sister to the ingenous Pro- fessor of that name." Once more I enter Gorham's Hotel, where a comfortable bed, and sound sleep, soon rendered me alike insensible to the fatigues or pleasures of the day. 186 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. CHAPTER XIV. THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN. Now I have breakfasted, what's to be done ? I'll see what the Gorham advises. " Waiter, if Mr. Gorham is not particularly engaged, I should be glad to speak to him." " He's just gone to look after the eagles in the yard, sir, but I'll go and tell him." " No stop, I'll go myself I should like much to have a look at his pets I remember Doolan mentioned them to me." On my return I found Mr. Lynch lolling upon the sofa in my room. The usual greetings over, he anticipated my question of what's to be done, by commencing as follows: " You are now," said he, " pretty well acquainted with the wonders of Kil- larney, and I suppose you intend shortly to take your departure ; nevertheless, if not restricted by time, there are one or two rambles which I wish to lead you ; and though they may not be, perhaps, so interesting as those which you have already en- joyed, I think you are just that sort of person who wishes to see every thing, good and bad, as the Irish phrase runs, before you depart for the chalky cliffs of happy England. For instance, you have not seen the park, in which there is a very pretty glen there's the wild country too beyond the park, THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN. 187 with the little Lake of Killbran, about which I have a story the Glen of Ahahunnig the Druidi- cal Circle and Labig Owen, or Owen's Bed, at Philadown, in Glanflesk." " All which I am determined to see," said I, te if you will undertake the office of guide." " That office I will readily undertake, said Mr. Lynch, and so I think we had better proceed at once." " With all my heart horsed shall be at the door directly." " Horses ! what do you want horses for? No, no, you must make use of your legs to-day." " Be it as you will," said I. And away we went along the Main street, till we reached its extremity ; then turning to the right, we entered upon the Castle Island road. " What deplorable cabins !" I exclaimed, as we passed a row of the most miserable dwellings I had ever beheld, and which stood a disgrace to Killarney. " I wonder at you," said Mr. Lynch, with a smile, " to speak thus of Mrs. Falvey's freeholds. I assure you the fair owner is very partial to this property, having, I understand, rejected several very good offers made to her by Lord Kenmare, if she would only let these deplorable cabins, as you call them, be pulled down. But, no, it would never do to destroy so many comfortable habita- tions ; besides, what would become of Killarney, if the inmates of these hovels were obliged to emigrate ; alas, if that were the case, there would be a lamentable want of beggars in the town ; for here dwell those kind-hearted people who were the first to hail your arrival, and who will anxiously crowd to witness your departure." 188 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. Leaving Mrs. Falvey's freeholds and the hos- pital behind, we in a short time reached the entrance to Lord Kenmare's park, distant about half a mile from Killarney. The park is situated on one of the hills which rise behind the town, and is agreeably broken. It is richly wooded with ancient oaks; but its chief attraction is a romantic glen, through which rushes the Dinah, now cascading over dark rocky ledges, now brawling along its pebbly bed, and not unfre- quentiy dimpling into little pools ; while the woods at each side overhang, and frequently overarch the stream, which in some places ap- pears to gush from their very branches. At each side of the stream there is a commodious walk, sometimes running close to the water, sometimes rising high above it. And from the bridge there is an agreeable view ; for on looking down you behold the stream brawling along till completely lost amid the woods. I was informed that this spot was formerly a place much resorted to by the towns-people ; at that time there were rustic chairs and pavilions scattered through the glen, which was frequented by evening parties, who would here sip their tea and keep up the merry dance, to the astonishment of the startled deer, even until the moon rose upon their revels. But the place is now neglected ; the walks are over- grown with grass and weeds, the seats, the pavi- lion, and even a wooden bridge, which once served for ornament and use, have disappeared nay, the very deer have been banished, and the park is now undergoing a course of tillage. From the glen, which is in the northern part of the park, we walked to the hill on the opposite side, at the summit of which we found a gate, dividing THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN. 189 Mr. Cronin's portion of the park from that kept by Lord Kenmare in his own hands. We then strolled leisurely towards Mr. Cronin's, or, as it is usually called, the Park house. Passing out of the park by the back gate, near Mr. Cronin's house, we found ourselves on the old road leading to Kanturk, and along this we pro- ceeded, in order to reach the Lake of Killbran. There was nothing attractive in the country on either side, which consisted of wild stony farms, that seemed to promise but a poor recompense to the hand of industry. After walking about a mile we turned off to the left, into a by-road, at a place were I remarked a rude stone-capped well, called the Spa of Tullig. About half a mile fur- ther, we passed a little wooded glen, or rather hollow, on the left-hand side of the road, and shortly after reached the Lake of Killbran. This is a small lake, situated on a green height, from whence there is a wild prospect of a broken country, interspersed with bogs and valleys, till bounded to the north by the mountains, in the neighbourhood of Tralee. The land was remark- ably barren and destitute of wood, except here and there a few trees scattered about the cabins of the peasantry, or where the plantations of Gleun a Heelah and Farm Lodge appeared but these were as specks, compared with the extent of the landscape, and could therefore little affect the general character of barrenness. " And is this," said I, " what you have brought me to see ? truly, I think we have had a most un- profitable journey." " Come, that's not fair," returned Mr. Lynch, " 1 told you that you must take the good and the bad together ; it was not for the sake of the 190 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. prospect I brought you here, but merely because it is the scene of a legend with which I am acquainted. I believe that every lake in Ireland has some story attached to it ; but the first notice I received of this, was that there lived a big worm, as big as a colt, in Loch Bran. Having little else to do, I made a journey hither, to inquire into the matter, and, accosting the first countryman I met, asked him if there had not been a < big worm' seen in the lake. " ' Oh then, sure enough there is one/ said he, ' as big as a coult, with a great bushy tail, that comes up out of the water sometimes ; by the same token, that Jerry Finigan was near being kilt by him ; for he went for his coult in the gray of the morning, and was just putting the bridle on the big worm, when he broke away and ran into the lake. And of another time he was near kill- ing a man, a cousin of my own one Moriarty, who was ploughing near the lake a quare lake it is any how, and couldn't have been a lake always, for when the water is low you may see the remains of an ould ditch running across the bottom of it ; and there was a big piece of timber found in it, with an auger hole bored through it ; so I suppose there was people living there, till the flood came and drownded them.' " Having made inquiries of this kind in various quarters, I at length succeeded in obtaining the best information which can be procured relative to the Lake of Killbran, and which I here beg leave to present you with. " In the good old times there existed in Ireland a race of mortals, who, under the denomination of 6 poor scholars/ used to travel from parish to parish, and county to county, in order to increase THE LAKE OF KILLBRAX. 191 their stock of knowledge. These poor scholars were, for the most part, men of from twenty to five- and- twenty years of age ; and as they were also agreeable, social fellows, who during their peregrinations had acquired a fund of anecdote, could tell a good story, and never refused to lend a helping hand in any business that was going for- ward, they were received with a caed mille faultha* at every farmer's house throughout the country, where they were welcome to stay as long as they pleased. " It happened one evening in the month of July, that one of these peripatetics, a stout, plat- ter-faced mortal, by name Darby O'Reily (the very same it was who invented the famous stone soup,) made his appearance at the house of the widow Fleming, who dwelt not far from the old church of Kilcummin. Now, the widow Fleming, who since her husband's death had taken the entire management of a large farm upon herself, was very glad to see Darby O'Reily for a variety of reasons. In the first place, it was the hay har- vest, and Darby would lend a helping hand, and keep the men in good humour at their work with his merry stories ; then he could teach the chil- dren great A. B. C. of an evening, and then she was a lone woman, and Darby was a pleasant com- panion, and an old acquaintance moreover. Whe- ther this last idea was of deeper root than the others, is not for me to say, but certain it is that Darby received on the present occasion more than a common welcome from the widow Fleming. After having partaken of the good cheer which the widow set before him in the greatest profusion, and having renewed his acquaintance with the * A hundred thousand welcomes. 192 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. inmates of the house, even to Darby the dog, that was called after him, and the cat ; he proposed to step down to the parish jighouse, just to shuffle the brogue with his old sweethearts, hear the news and see how the neighbours were getting on, for it was near a twelvemonth since he had been in that part of the country. Now, whether it was the mention of sweethearts that disagreed with the widow, or whatever else might have been the cause, it is certain that she was much against Darby's going to the jighouse; but seeing that she could not with any decency or effect gainsay his inten- tions, she was obliged to assent, at the same time, however, warning him to be back early, and not to keep up the house. Away he went to the jig- house, where he found himself quite at home, and as welcome as the flowers of May. Fine fun he had of it, for the pipes played merrily up, while he footed it bravely with the prettiest girls and best moneen jiggers in all the Barony. To speak the truth, he wasn't a bad hand at a jig himself, for there were few could equal him in the ' heel and toe' step, and then he put such life and spirit into his motions, that he made the house ring again with his grinding and merry snap of his fingers. But your dancing is droughty work, at least Darby O'Reily was of that opinion, although there was no fear of his dying for the want of a drop to drink ; as he had news for the old, and stories for the young, till at last it was Darby here, and Darby there, and who but Darby ? The soul of merriment, and the prince of good fellows, every one striving who should be the first to treat him, Darby soon became as comfortable as any gentleman could wish to be. But while Darby was drinking, and dancing, THE LAKE OF KILLBRAtf. 193 and making merry, he never remembered it was time to go home, or bestowed a single thought upon the widow Fleming's good advice, which was very ungrateful of him, considering the civil way she had behaved to him, and that she was even then herself sitting up waiting his return. " The longest day will have an end, and the greatest merriment must at length give way to repose, as Darby found to his sorrow, when the party broke up, and he had to stagger away as well as he could. He was so much i in the wind,' that he didn't well know which way he was going, and, as bad luck would have it, he went every way but the right; for instead of keeping the straight road, by way of making a short cut, he turned off through the fields, and, after wandering about for as good as an hour, where should he find himself but in the old fort at Clauteens. A bad place it is to get into at the dead hour of the night, when the good people are going their rounds, and mak- ing merry, as Darby soon found ; for though it was easy enough to get into the fort, he couldn't get out again for the life of him ; it even appeared to him as if the fort had increased its dimensions to a boundless extent. He wandered up and down and round about for a long time without ever be- ing able to get out, and was obliged at last to con- tent himself where he was, so down he sat on a stone. * There's small fun sitting on a could stone in the moonshine,' muttered Darby; ' and sure it's a pitiful case to be bewitched by the fairies the good people I mean, and stuck fast in the middle of an ould fort ; but there's no help for it, so what can't be cured must be endured/ No sooner had he come to this very wise conclusion, than he o 194 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. heard a most tremendous hammering under the very stone he was sitting on. " * O Darby !' cried he, < what'll become of you now?' " Plucking up his courage, he boldly took a peep beneath the stone, when, what should he see, but a Cluricaune sitting under a projecting ledge of what had been his seat, and hammer- ing as hard as he could at the heel of an old shoe. Although Darby was very much afraid of the fairies, he wasn't a bit in dread of a Cluri- caune; for they say if you catch a Cluricaune and keep him fast, he'll shew you where his purse is hid, and make a rich man of you. But it wasn't thinking of purses Darby was, for he'd rather be out of the fort than to get all the purses in the world. So when he saw the Cluri- caune, it came into his head, that may be he'd lend him a helping hand, for they say the little fellow is fond of a drop himself. ' Success to you, my boy, you are a good hand at a shoe any how/ said Darby, addressing himself to the Cluricaune. " ' Ah ! Darby, my jolly buck, is that you ? ' said the Cluricaune, getting up from his work, and looking him full in the face. " ' The very same, at your honour's sarvice/ answered Darby. " ' What brought you here ? ' said the Cluri- caune, ' I'm thinking you've got yourself into a bit of a scrape.' " ' Fakes then, your honour, I'm thinking the very same,' said Darby, * if your honour doesn't lend me a helping hand.' So he told him how he stopped at the widow Fleming's, how he went down to the jighouse, and being a little over- THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN. 195 taken in liquor, how he wandered through the fields until he found himself in the old fort, and wasn't able to make his way out again. " < You're in a bad case, Darby,' said the Cluri- caune, ' for the good people will be here directly, and if they find you before them, Darby, they'll play the puck with you/ " ' Oh, murder ! ' cried Darby, < I throw my life upon the heel of your honour's shoe.' " ' Well/ said the Cluricaune, * you're a rol- locking lad as ever tipped a can, and it's a pity any harm should ever come of taking a drop of good drink. So give me your hand, and I'll save you. And as you never did any hurt to me or mine, I'll do more than that for you, Darby. Here, take this charm, and you are made for ever, my man.' " ' And what's the nathur of it ?' said Darby, at the same time putting it into his right hand breeches pocket, and buttoning it up tight. " < I'll tell you that,' said the Cluricaune; ' if you only pin it to the petticoat of the first woman in the land, she'll follow you the wide world over; and that's no bad thing for a poor scholar.' So saying, the Cluricaune took him out of the fort, put him on the straight road, and, wishing him success with the charm, burst into a fit of laughter, and disappeared. " ' Good riddance of you any how, but 'tis an ugly laugh you have with you,' said Darby, as he made the best of his way to the widow Fleming's, who was in no great humour ; and no wonder, to be kept up so late by such a drunken bletherum as Darby. Now, when he saw the widow in a bit of a fret, * Ho ! by my sowl,' said he, < I've the cure in my breeches pocket/ So with that he outs o2 196 KILLARtfEY LEGENDS. with the charm, and pinned it slyly to the widow's gown. * I've charmed her now,' says Darby, ' if there's any truth in that little chap of a Cluri- caune.' And certainly there was soon a wonder- ful change in the widow, who, from being as gluni as a misty morning, became as soft as butter. So very careful was she of Darby, that, late as it was, she made down a good fire, lest he should be cold after the night, brought him a supper of the best the house could afford, and had as much cooram about him as if he was lord of the land. Darby grinned with delight at the success of his charm ; but he was soon made to grin at wrong side of his mouth, for the widow in the midst of her love chanced to discover the charm that was pinned to the tail of her gown. " ' What's this you've pinned to my gown, you rogue you ?' said she, at the same time flinging it into the fire. " ' Botheration/ roared Darby, ' I'm settled for now ;' and no wonder he should roar, for the charm took instant effect ; and the fire jumped holus-bolus after Darby, who made for the door, and away he went as fast as his legs could carry him. But if he did, the fire came after him, roaring and blazing, as if there were a thousand tar-barrels in the middle of it. Away he ran for the bare life, across the country, over hedge and ditch, for as good as two miles ; neither stopping nor staying till he came to a deep well on a high farm, between Tullig and Gleun a Heelah, when who should he meet but his old friend the Cluricaune. ' Arrah Darby !' says the little fellow, * you seem to be in a wonderful hurry; where are you going so fast, man, that you wouldn't stop to spake to an old acquaintance ?' THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN. 197 " ' Bad luck to you, you deceitful hop of my thumb/ said Darby ; ' for sure it's all along of you and your charm that I'm in the neat way I am this blessed night.' " ' And that's my thanks for saving you from the good people/ says the Cluricaune. ' Very well, Mister Darby, there's the fire at your heels, and who's to save you now ?' " ' O ! thunder alive ! sure you wouldn't be after sarving Darby that way.* " ' Well/ said the Cluricaune, ' I'll take com- passion on you this once ; so here's my advrce, leap into the well, and you'll be safe/ " ( Is it into the well you mane/ says Darby, ' why then do you take me for a fool entirely ?' " ' O ! you're a very wise man to be sure, see- ing you're a scholar, Darby ; so you may take your own way if you like, and welcome. Good- night to you, Darby O'Reily/ said the spiteful little fellow, slapping his cocked hat on his head, and walking off with a most malicious grin, * Good-night to you, Darby O'Reily/ " * Murder ! murder !' shouted Darby, for by this time the fire had come so near that it began to scorch him ; when seeing there was no alterna- tive, and thinking it better to be drownded than burned, he made a desperate plunge into the well. " Souse he went into the well, and souse went the fire after him. Immediately the water bub- bled, sparkled, growled, and rose above the verge of the well, filling with the velocity of lightning all the adjacent hollow ground, until it formed one of those little sparkling lakes which are so numerous in this hilly country. " Darby was borne with the speed of a whirl- wind on the top of a curling billow, and cast 198 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. senseless on the shore. The first thing he saw on awaking from his trance was the sun shining over him; the first voice he heard was that of the widow Fleming, who had travelled far and near in search of him ; and the first word Darby uttered, upon thoroughly recovering himself, was, ' Bad luck to the good people, for sure 'tis they that have been playing tricks upon me all the night/ Then he up and told the widow Fleming and the neighbours the whole history of his night's adven- ture. " ' It's drunk you were, Darby, and you know it/ said the widow ; ' you're a bad boy, Darby.' " But whatever was the cause, whether Darby got the charm from the Cluricaune or not, it is certain that the widow Fleming not long after became Mrs. O'Reily, and that Loch Bran or the Lake of the burning Cole, is to be seen to this day." AHAHUNKIG. 199 CHAPTER XV. AHAHUNNIG. THE road from Kilbran to Killarney is a continued descent ; on our return, we stopped for a few minutes at the Spa of Tullig, which, as I have before said, is a little stone-capped, neglected, mineral spring, situated on the side of the road, and having a rough furze-clad hill rising imme- diately behind it. Leaving the Spa, we crossed a little stream near it, regained the Kanturk road, and, turning to the right, entered a pass or hollow in the road formed by two hills which descended on either side. These hills were wild, heathy, and covered with furze ; a few naked rocks were scattered through the hollow, and not unfre- quently a patriarchal goat showed his reverend beard as he stood looking down in apparently philosophical contemplation on the travellers below. As we continued our course through the pass, we had a fine view of the mountains, the Lower Lake reposing at their base, with a broken coun- try, and the rich oak woods of the park, forming a beautiful foreground. On our descent we gra- dually lost sight of the lake, and, arrived at Tier- nabowl, we could only see the tops of the woods and mountains, save where to the left Coltsman's Castle presented itself to view, backed by the 200 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. mighty Mangerton, and the mountains of Loch Kittane and Glanflesk. Tiernabowl is the name given to this district generally. Tierna signifies a lord or chief; bowl, according to the country people's translation, a spot or place. Hence Tiernabowl appears to im- ply the chieftain's seat. It was formerly a lord- ship of the Mac Sweenys, and is still inhabited by many of that name ; but a few miserable cabins by the road-side, with some sheltering trees, are all that Tiernabowl can now boast of. Instead of pursuing the road to Killarney, we turned off by a pathway to the left, for we had seen, from Tiernabowl, a hollow or glen which appeared worthy of being explored. Following this path, we had immediately beneath us a stony ravine, and bounding the eastern horizon appeared those singularly shaped mountains called the Paps. On reaching a farmhouse, we descended into the Glen of Ahahunnig, and lost sight of every thing, except the hills which immediately enclosed us. The part of the glen into which we had de- scended was rugged and uncultivated, having only an unequal covering of furze mingled with grey stones, which lay scattered about the bottom, and are traditionally said to have been the relics of fairy warfare. There was also here a want of corre-^ epondence in the sides of the glen ; the one sloping down, while the other fell suddenly to the verge of the brawling stream, and exhibited a white gravelly surface, as if the soil had gradually crumbled away, and left it bare and abrupt. Pursuing the course of the stream, or rather its bed f r ? like most hill-born streams, it is nearly dry in summer we entered the wooded part of the gleu. Near the commencement of the wood, AHAHUNNIG. 201 which is of oak, sweeping at either side down to the stream, we observed one tree of a particular formation, and close to it a large stone bearing the following nearly obliterated inscription : " M SWY (M* Sweeny) TOOK ME FROM MY PLACE MAY HE, LIKE ME, MEET DUE DISGRACE." " That singular tree," said Mr. Lynch, " and the inscription, remain in remembrance of rather a melancholy story." " I should like to hear a melancholy story," said I, u above all things pray make it as dismal as you can, for I see you are inventing." " No ! I give you my word," replied Mr. Lynch, " I am not inventing, at least upon the present occasion. It was a long time before I could learn any thing concerning this tree and inscribed stone, although I had made repeated inquiries, till chance threw me in the way of an old man who related the tradition, which tradi- tion, together with the narrator, have since nearly passed away from the memory of man. The Mac Sweenys were originally inhabitants of the north of Ireland. There were three chiefs of that name, all descended from the O'Neils viz. Mac Sweeny Fclnaide, Mac Sweeny Bddhuine, and Mac Sweeny na-dtuadh, or Mac Sweeny of the battle-axes. These chiefs were all of the same family. In the thirteenth century, a party, headed by the two latter, made an adventuring excursion into Mun- ster, where they joined in the feuds of the south, and, becoming auxiliaries to the Mac Carthys of Muskerry and Carberry, acquired some disputed ground under the chiefs whom they served. From him of the battle-axes the Mac Sweenys of Tiernabowl are descended." 202 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " You are as good a genealogist^ Lynch, as Ulster himself/* " There is now no chieftain," continued Mr. Lynch, " of the name in Kerry. The last chief of the Mac Sweenys, many years ago, inhabited a thatched farmhouse in the neighbourhood of Tier- nabowl. A proud man he was of his descent, and though he had lost the greater part of his estates in the revolution of 1688, and was outlawed before the surrender of Limerick, he still managed to to keep up the style and consequence of an Irish chief. The bard and the jester haunted his fire- side ; and crowds of idle followers, who knew no restraint but their lord's will, were ready to obey him. In fact, under the command of Mac Sweeny, a formidable gang of freebooters, termed Rap- parees from the half pikes or short sticks which they carried, sprung up, who devastated the country for miles around. And although plundering both the partisans of James and William, the security afforded by the woods, as well as the strength of Mac Sweeny's mountain fastnesses, rendered pursuit from either side after cattle or goods an idle task. " One evening, in the stormy month of Novem- ber, the desperate dwellers in Tiernabowl were collected around a blazing turf-fire, anxious for the return of their chief, who had gone the pre* ceding night on some secret expedition, when suddenly above the sighing of the rising wind was heard the tramp of a horse. " < 'Tis the coppul duve," exclaimed Gilla-roo, who was Mac Sweeny's confidential man, and who received his name from the long, matted, red locks which overshadowed his weather-beaten counte- nance ; * 'tis the coppul duve, and here's the Mac Sw e eny coming, surely.' AHAHUNNIG. 203 " A shrill and well-known whistle verified Gilla- roo's assertion, and instantly out rushed the clans- men, each bearing in his hand a blazing torch of the dry and splintered bog deal. Great, however, was their wonder at perceiving, seated on his dark horse before the chieftain, the fair form of a maiden, who was consigned with few words to the rough guardianship of Gilla-roo. " ' Keep her safely," said Mac Sweeny ; ' when I was the lord of unproclaimed lands, the proud Margaret Barry rejected my suit Now that I am a poor outlaw, with no ground but what I stand on, my own, she shall be mine/ " Before daybreak the following morning, Mac Sweeny departed from Tiernabowl at the head of his retainers, on a plundering excursion. It was his last, and few who accompanied him ever re- turned. Gilla-roo alone, much to his dissatis- faction, was left behind to guard the fair captive slight guard did so delicate and drooping a girl seem to require. Gilla-roo was kind to her in his own rough way ; he procured for her every com- fort in his power, and permitted her to range the glen. Fatal permission! the second morning after the chieftain's departure she was found suspended from this very tree, after having carved her male- diction on the rock. 66 It is said that, on the eve of this event, the form of the ill-fated Margaret is seen flitting through the glen, and her voice has been heard, not after the wailing manner of the Banshee, but in shouts of triumphant laughter, which quicken the breath and curdle the blood of the hearer. " Years have passed away more than a cen- tury has elapsed, and the story is nearly forgotten. This tree and this stone alone remain as memo- 204 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. rials of deeds, and of days, which the peasant no longer remembers, save when, perhaps during the darkness of the night, he traverses the Glen of Ahahunnig, and, piously crossing himself, mutters a prayer for the repose of < the White Maiden of Tiernabowl/ although in ignorance of her name and unfortunate history.'* When Mr. Lynch had concluded his story, we arose to pursue our way through the glen, and though the golden light of a setting sun made its way through the interstices of the branches, and shot athwart our path, I almost expected to see the form of the White Maiden emerge from some of the recesses of the wood. Issuing from the glen, we found ourselves close to the bridge of Ballycasheen on the Cork road. " Suppose," said Mr. Lynch, as we stood on the bridge, " that, instead of going direct to Kil- larney, we visit the Druids' Circle ; it is not far from this, and there is yet sufficient daylight." " With all my heart," said I ; " my object is to see every thing." From the bridge we ascended part of the hill, and, turning into a field on the left-hand side of the road, in a short time reached our object. The Druids' Circle consists of a circular embank- ment, resembling those commonly called in Ireland Danish Forts ; within which are placed seven rude upright stones. These stones are about three and a half feet in height, are distant from each other about four feet and a half, and from the embank- ment twenty-five. The circumference of the area within the embankment is about one hundred and three feet. Thirty-six feet distant from the em- bankment on the southern side, and seven feet from each other, stand two upright stones, of much AHAHUNNIG. 205 larger dimensions than those within the circle. They are about twelve feet in circumference, and seven in height. While Mr. Lynch and I were busily engaged in measuring this ancient monument, a countryman returning from his day's work, prompted 1 doubt not by curiosity, approached us. " Deus Mieregud (God and the Virgin save you)," said he. Deus Miragud agus Espadriy (God and the Virgin, and St. Patrick save you)," replied Mr. Lynch, which is more than many other conscien- tious Protestants would have said ; for, abhorring all such idolatrous invocations, they usually an- swer the common salutation of " Deus miragud* with " Ge moo Dea lat" that is, God be with you. Mr. Lynch, however, was not quite so scrupulous, and his reply was the more agreeable to our visitor, who quickly began to talk without restraint. " Why then," said he, " them are quare stones sure enough, and it's a wonder how they came here ; they must have been very strong men that could lift them any how." " That's very true, indeed," said Mr. Lynch, " but did you ever hear any old story about them? I suppose it must have been the giants, who lived in Ireland long ago, that brought them here." " Why then that's the very thing that's said about them, surely ; but myself believes they were rale people, who was enchanted by Donald Egee- lagh, that lives in Loch-lane." " Indeed ! and how was that ?" said I. " Your honour must know then, that, a long time ago, there was two giants you see, and they had seven sons, and these two big stones are the giants, and the seven little ones are their 206 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. childer, and they thought to conquer the country and bate all before them, so they made war upon Donald Egeelagh (Daniel of the lake,) who lived down at Ross there a mighty great prince he was, and a great enchanter ; so when he couldn't get the better of the giants and their seven sons by fair fighting, he went to his enchantments, and turned them into stones, and here they are from that day to this. It's myself wouldn't be- lieve a word of it, if it wasn't that Tim Mulcahy swore (and sure he wouldn't sware to a lie,) that as he was passing by late at night of a May eve, what should he see but the two big stones turned into giants again, and the seven little ones, that are their childer, dancing like any thing round and round in the middle of the fort. And sure there's something quare in the looks of them, for stones? there was a jantleman once came axing myself about them, and when I showed them to him, he said they were the very things he wanted, for he saw them all the ways from the top of a big church in the city of Room, and sure how could he do that if there wasn't enchantment upon them ?" " Very fair reasoning certainly," said Mr. Lynch ; " but as it is growing late, we must bid you good by stay, here's a trifle to drink our healths." " Och, by the powers, and it's I'll do that same cleverly, and success to your honour; and may you and yours never want by night or by day, but have all sorts of luck and fortin." The last red streak of light was fading away from the western sky, as we entered the town of Killarney ; and that had again given place to the sober grey of twilight, as we re-established our- selves in Gorham's comfortable parlour. AHAHUNNIG. 207 No lamps, as in London, arose twinkling along the street, each after each giving its gaseous star to view, at the magical touch of the lamplighter. The only lamps Killarney can boast of are the two which grace the rival inns. They indeed shine unrivalled; and by their light, as we looked from the parlour window, might be discovered various groups of boatmen and others, recounting the toils, the gains, and the adventures of the day: by the rays of Gorham's lamp, I observed my old crew in close consultation. " I wonder what the fellows are at !" said I to Mr. Lynch, u no good, I am certain." But all wonder was soon put an end to by Doolan, who, perceiving us at the window, approached hat in hand, with " Thunder alive! your honour, only think of the mistake we made in not chris- tening a rock for your honour, that it might ever and always have your honour's name upon it. Why, then, that was a mistake and a half sure enough; but it's no matter, for better late than never; and there's Murphy (Father Murphy they calls him, for 'tis he christens the islands) says it will do as well now, and that he'll engage to christen a rock after your honour." "As to a rock being christened after me, Doolan, my honour is really very indifferent about that honour; Crofton Croker Island being already quietly established in the north channel of Lake Huron, thanks to my worthy friend Captain Bay- field. But I understand your application all christenings are accompanied by merry-making, so here's a crown towards the purchasing whiskey. And now I have a right to ask how the ceremony is performed." " Why, then, I'll tell you that, sir but, sure 208 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. wherever else you may have an island, you have not one at Killarney, where, above all places in the wide world, you ought; so the next time we go out on the lake, you see, we'll take Murphy with us, because why he'll be the priest ; and when we come to the rock or island that's to have your honour's name upon it, then Father Murphy will stand up, and say, * In nomine Occuli mei, atque Betty Martini occuli, I call you Croker's Island ;' with that he'll throw a bottle of whiskey agin it, then a shot will be fired, and we'll all give three shouts for Croker's Island ; then we'll land, and drink your honour's health; and that's the way we christens the islands." * * I cannot resist making a long extract from "poor Anne Plumptre's" Tour in Ireland, that lady having been actually present at a Killarney christening. " Several islands/' writes Miss Plumptre, " were pointed out to me by the names which they bore, some others were not particularized ; and, inquiring what their names were, I was told they had none. * How happens that?' I asked. They did not know ; the others had been named by dif- ferent parties visiting the lakes, and nobody had had the fancy to give them names ; if I had no objection, they should like very much to name one after me : then point- ing to a rock very near us, they said, that had no name, we might land and christen it. I would not, however, permit my name to be given : as the habit of the world has been ever to pronounce it as if it were a plum-tree, I was sure that the island would never be called any thing but Plum-tree Island ; and a tradition would soon be affixed to it, that it was once covered with plum-trees. I there- fore declined being godmother, at least so far as giving my own name to it was concerned ; but the men seemed to have a great desire that it should be christened, and beg- ged that I would give it some name, any that I fancied. * Very well,' I said; 'it shall be called Kean's Island, after Mr. Kean, the great actor/ Oh they had often heard of him ; they should like that name exceedingly ; they : wished he would come to Killarney. We landed then j it AHAHUNN1G. 209 " And a very good way it is, Doolan wishing you much pleasure at the christening, I now wish you good night." " And a very good night to your own honour," returned Doolan, " and long life to you." " He forgot to tell you," said Mr. Lynch, who had remained silent during this audience, " that there is one rock in the Upper Lake which has been christened a thousand times after as many peo- ple ; so, you see, you are not very likely to establish your name among the rocks of Loch Lane. Miss Plummer was far more fortunate." " Miss Plummer," said I, " should be, I fancy, Miss Plumptre to be sure, there is no use in arguing against popular names, yet allow me to tell you my reasons for venturing this conjecture. If you have read that lady's quarto" was a pretty rock, with some arbutuses and other shrubs and plants growing upon it ; the people were all ranged in a circle, in the midst of which the bugle horn-player, who I found was the established clergyman upon these occasions, came forward in the proper formulary, in a jar- gon of English, Irish, and Latin, perfectly unintelligible to me ; then applying to me as godmother, I gave the name, which he repeated with the addition of a little more jar- gon ; and the ceremony was concluded with throwing down upon the rock a bottle of whiskey, which was dashed to pieces. This part, I own, surprised me not a little ; I should never have expected to see a bottle of whiskey thus disposed of; but the island they all said would not have been regularly christened without it. Now, they added, it could never have any other name than Kean's Island, and as such it would be pointed out to all future navigators on the lake. I should like much to know whether it ever has been so to one. The conclusion was, a hope that the crew might have a bowl of punch, when they got home in the evening, to drink the godmother's health. I then perfectly understood the general eagerness for the christening." p 210 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " I never read quartos/' said Mr. Lynch. " Well, I, who have read it, can inform you that Miss Plumptre gives an account of the naming of an island or rock after Mr. Kean." " And what of that ,?" " Now I am coming to the point for which said Miss Plumptre most good-naturally paid the piper, by treating the boat's crew. I have no doubt this was done in a liberal manner, and that the island in question has gone by her name, mis- pronounced Plummer, instead of Mr. Kean's. I am further confirmed in my conjecture, from not finding Miss Plummer's enumerated in any list of the islands which had been published before the appearance of Miss Plumptre's book look, for instance, at that in the Postchaise Companion through Ireland, where it is not." " All this is very important ;" said Mr. Lynchj but it is growing late, and I must depart remem^ ber that to-morrow we set out for Loch Kittane and Philadown, and shall probably spend a night in the glens/' LOCH KITTANE. 211 CHAPTER XVI. LOCH KITTANE. Iy pursuance of our intention of visiting Loch Kittane and Philadown, having furnished our- selves with every thing necessary, we left Gor- ham's on foot early in the morning, and took the road which leads to Mucruss. As this route has already been sufficiently described, I shall merely say that the road to Loch Kittane turns off to the left, exactly opposite the abbey gate, having a farm-house on the left, and on the right the hill of Killagy, easily recognized by the little tower which rises from the burial-ground on its summit. We, however, did not proceed so far as the abbey gate, but, a short way beyond the carriage entrance to Castle Lough, turned off by an old neglected road, termed a Bohereen. In this matter I merely followed the guidance of Mr. Lynch, and I have no reason to regret my passive- ness on the occasion, as by so doing I had a mag- nificent view of the Lower Lake. This was obtained by leaving the road and gaining a hill, a movement, to use the military phrase, accom- plished without the loss of ground. Immediately beneath us lay Castle Lough Bay, with the wide stretch of water extending from thence to the opposite mountain of Glena. To the south was p2 212 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. the wooded and varied peninsula of Mucruss, behind which towered the pointed Turk, stretch- ing away to the Eagle's Nest, with here and there a glimpse of the Middle Lake at its base. And in the distance appeared Macgillicuddy's Reeks and the Giant mountains of the Upper Lake. To the north was seen the woods of Castle Lough, Cahirnane, and Ross Island. The western portion of the lake did not from this point of view present so wide a sheet of water as the eastern, because Innisfallen and the Brown Island, appearing like a continuation of Ross, stretched far into the lake, narrowing its waters, and giving this division rather the appearance of a large winding river than part of a wide- spreading lake. On the northern shore might be discerned Grenagh and Lakefield, backed by the woods of Mieniska, the hill of Aghadoe, and the distant mountains of Castlemain and T ralee, which, from the haze of an autumnal day, it required a keen eye to discover. The whole formed, as prospect hunters would say, as fine a view as can well be imagined. Extent is somehow always confounded with picturesque beauty, when applied to the land- scape by writers who are not artists. I know just sufficient of art to save me from making the assertion ; but I will be equally candid, and confess that the woods, the mountains, and the works on Ross Island the contrast between rude nature and green cultivated fields the lake, now broad and unbroken, save by a few gem-like islands, and now narrowed to the dimensions of a river now sweeping into magnificent bays, and now presenting a long unbroken line of richly wooded coast while over the whole was shed LOCH KITTANE. 213 -the cloudy effects of autumn now a tender streak of light glancing along the waters the waves now leaping in dazzling brightness, and now rippling down into darkness and repose. Ail these varied objects and effects gave me so much delight, that I felt little regret at the slight progress I had made in the knowledge of art if art indeed could make me look without admiration on a scene like this. Turning to the east, we had before us a wild country, and close to us, in a hollow of the hill, a little heart-shaped lake, called Lough Ardagh, remarkable only for the profusion of camomile which grew on its borders. Descending the southern side of the hill, we gained the road to Loch Kittane, which we had not long pursued before our attention was arrested by a busy hum, proceeding from a cabin on the road-side ; and we soon discovered it to be what is commonly called a hedge school, or Kerry college. The road leading to Loch Kittane runs along the base of Mangerton, having that mountain on the right, with the Devil's Punchbowl and the Glen of the Horse. The foreground is composed of rock and heath, and was covered with numer- ous flocks of goats. The country to the left of the road consists of dreary bogs and extensive heaths ; here and there, indeed, an attempt at cultivation appears ; and in such places the wretched fields are surrounded by walls of the loose grey stones which had been collected from the surface, while frequently a considerable por- tion of the fields themselves were occupied by large heaps of the same kind. Sometimes, how- ever, a round cultivated swell, and a secluded 214 KILLARtfEY LEGENDS. green hollow, would show themselves amid the un- profitable waste by which they were surrounded. The road, nevertheless, was tolerably romantic ; and, with the assistance of Mr. Lynch's conversa- tion, I found sufficient to amuse and interest me, until we reached the shore of Loch Kittane, at that point where the river, emerging from its north-western extremity, proceeds to join the Flesk, which, after many a winding, and receiving many tributary streams in its course, discharges its waters into the Lower Lake of Killarney. Loch Kittane, at the distance of about four or five miles to the south-east of Killarney, is situ- ated in a nook formed by the mountains of Man- gerton and Crohane. In size it is nearly the same as the Middle Lake of Killarney, that is, if the various bays and indentations of the latter are left out of the account. Loch Kittane can boast of but one small island, and its greatest sweep of water seems to run from south-east to north-west. Its northern shore consists almost entirely of bog, but it is a bog which might easily be improved ; in the north-eastern corner, on rising ground, is a cultivated farm, which, though in any other situation it would hardly be noticed, yet here, from the contrast between it and the surrounding shores, has an agreeable effect. The western shore is also a cultivated hill, but the eastern and southern boundaries are entirely rocky and precipitous mountains, except to the south-east, where a rugged glen, called Kip- poch, runs for a short distance between the moun- tains of Crohane and Mangerton ; this hollow is partially cultivated, and contains a few cabins, but the irregular outlines of the mountains which back it are highly picturesque. LOCH KITTANE. 215 In the course of our ramble round the lake, we entered a cabin in Kippoch, in search of legendary lore, and here we found only a little boy ; his father and mother he said were gone to Killarney, and from the extreme caution of his answers, and the difficulty of extracting any infor- mation from him, I verily believe that he took us for tithe proctors, collectors of church rates, or excisemen. " Is the ground good here ?" inquired Mr. Lynch. " I don't know," was the reply : certainly the question was rather a suspicious one. " Do you keep many cows ?" " I don't know." " Are there any blackberries here ?" (we had observed a great profusion of them.) " I don't know." " Have you a head on your shoulders ?" " Eagh !" " Did you ever hear of a big worm in tha lake ?" This question seemed to rouse the boy a little ; I suppose from the natural desire we all feel to deal in the marvellous. " The worm is it? fakes then, sure enough there is a big worm in the lake." " How large is it ?" " Why then, it's as big as a horse, and has a great big mane upon it, so it has." " Did you ever see it ?" " No, myself never seed the sarpint, but it's all one, for sure Padrig-a-Fineen did." " And where does Mister Fineen live ?" " Beyond there, in Kippoch, where the trees are." 216 K1LLARNEY LEGENDS. On this intelligence, we set off for M ; ster Fineen's dwelling, to which the trees were a sure guide, as there were no others in the neighbour- hood, and even these did not muster to more than half a dozen, in the immediate neighbour- hood of a couple of cabins. Arrived at Mr. Fineen's, we found two smoky cabins, inhabited by as many families ; a parcel of children were playing in the dirt before the door of one of them, and the youngest of the group was rolling about among the pigs on some wet litter, in a state of nature. Mister Fineen was absent, but his better half, a fresh-looking country wench, informed us that he had never seen any such thing as a worm or sarpint, but that once upon a time, and a very good time it was, he thought he saw something like a dog or a quare baste rolling in the water. Disappointed in our expectations, we were about to retire, when the owner of the next cabin stepped forward and and what? (I sup- pose the reader thinks and told us a story :) he did no such thing. What then ? he stepped forward, and most hospitably offered us potatoes, and butter, and eggs, and milk; which invitation, let me tell you, among the classic mountains of Kerry, is not to be refused. The appearance of Loch Kittane, from its prox- imity to the mountains, is in general dark ; and not unfrequently the mountain breeze lashes its waters into foam, and sends them in thundering waves againsjt the shores. Like all lakes, it is sometimes calm and bright, but, whether cairn or stormy, it is a romantic spot, and wants but the fostering hand of man to render it delightful, LOCH KITTASE. 217 For the tasteful angler, Loch Kittane has many attractions, being, in addition to its situation, well stored with excellent trout. Its chief fault is the total absence of wood on its banks ; if trees were added, Loch Kittane would be highly roman- tic ; for during our circumambulation, we dis- covered many a fairy nook, where Mr. Lynch would fain have built a picturesque cottage, and have taken up his abode. On this subject he grew quite poetical, as the following verses will testify. Loch Kittane ! Loch Kittane ! amid dark mountains pil- low'd, Where Mangerton meets with the hill of Crohane, Whether sleeping in peace, or by mountain breeze bil- low'd, Still dear to my heart is the lone Loch Kittane. For oft by its shores have I wander'd alone, Or reclined 'mid the heather, bright springing around, Where the hum of the wild-bee came joined with the tone Of streamlet and wave, in one musical sound. Then magical fancy has framed me a bower, Far down in the hollow of rocky Kippoch, A home of the heart ! where no storm-cloud should lower, Save that which pass'd over the breast of the Loch But the calmer to leave, and more peacefully clear The ripples that circle its one little isle, As though the storm frown'd but the more to endear The peace and the sunshine which light up its smile. More bright and more beauteous a spot there may be, Than the wild lake where Mangerton meets with Cro- hane ; But none that are brighter or dearer to me, Than the rock-pillow'd wave of the lone Loch Kittane. 218 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. CHAPTER XVII. PHILADOWN. " GLEN a valley, a vale, space between two hills," so says the dictionary. Now, whether the aforesaid sage authority be right or wrong, I care not a jot : whether a valley, a vale, and a space between two hills, are one and the same ; whether a glen is a valley, a valley a vale, or a space between two hills both valley, vale, and glen ; or whether a space between two mountains may signify the same as a space between two hills, are points which I leave to the decision of quibbling and word-ferreting critics. But one thing is certain, and that is, that at present I have nothing to do with any word but glen. From this, however, arises the question as to what are the ideas attached to, or conveyed by, the aforesaid word ? Does not the reader feel a thousand, nay, ten thousand romantic ideas float- ing through his brain at the very sound of the word glen ? Are there not immediately torrents foaming, mountains ascending, green knolls smil- ing, and dark woods waving ? to say nothing of verdant hollows, terrific chasms, deep recesses, frowning cliffs, murmuring rivulets, sheltered farms, and flower-covered cottages. Are not all these pretty words mingling in glorious confusion PHILADOWff. 219 floating and flitting before your mind's eye at the mention of a glen ? besides sundry ideas of peace, sunshine, rusticity, love, and poverty, with other things, or ideas of things, too tedious at present for particular mention. If this is not the case with you, " gentle reader," as Mr. Lynch would say, I envy not your poetical powers. But as I have nothing whatever to do with poetry at pre- sent, I may as well proceed at once to the glen of the river Flesk, commonly called Glanflesk, in which is situated the cliff of Philadown, contain- ing the famous Labig Owen, or Owen's bed. Commencing, therefore, as I ought to have done before, with the conclusion of the last chap- ter ; I must acquaint those, who are desirous of further information, that before Mr. Lynch had finished his rhymes, we had left their subject Loch Kittane behind us, and were proceeding at a good pace towards Philadown. After pursuing for some time a hilly road along the base of the mountains, commanding to the left a view of a coarse broken country, such as might be expected in a land of hills, we came in sight of the ruins of Killaha castle, built by one of the O'Donoghues, the ancient chiefs of Glan- flesk. Passing this castle, of which I shall have occasion to speak hereafter, we descended to the lower or main road leading from Killarney to Glanflesk. Until the new line by the Upper Lake was made, this was the only road by which a carriage could proceed from Killarney to Ken- mare, a distance of about twenty-four miles. The new line now supersedes the old road, so far as Kenmare is concerned ; but, nevertheless, the latter promises to be much travelled, as a cross-road is making from Glanflesk to Macroom, which will 220 KILLARNEY L KG ENDS. shorten the distance from Killarney to Cork about seven miles. Be this as it may, turning to the right we began to enter the glen, and had not advanced far, before we met a smart, olive-com- plexioned little man, dressed in a black coat, blue trowsers, and an oilskin covered hat, vulgarly termed " a glazier." " How do you, doctor V 9 said Mr. Lynch. " Quite well, I thank you, and how is every inch of yourself ? is it to Philadown you're go- ing?" " The very place, doctor ; you'd guess eggs, if you saw but the shells. Will you accompany us to Labig Owen ?" " I have no objection/ 1 " That's well said, my little doctor, for as you are potent in the glens, your friendly aid and countenance may be of service to us." The doctor proved a very entertaining com- panion, possessing the free and easy manners of an un travelled Irish gentleman, and making but little professional display, except when now and then as we advanced up the glen, he would dis- cover his knowledge of simples, by adverting to the plants which we met on our way, especially if any of the natives happened to be present. Doubt- less the doctor had often relieved the inhabitants of the glen from the effects of shilelagh and whis- key, and they, in return, evidently regarded him as a second Galen. Certain it is, that we were indebted for a great deal of attention to the re- spect our companion was held in by the country people. We had not proceeded far, before our notice was attracted by a pair of shelties, saddled and bridled, standing before the door of a wretched PHILADOWN. 221 hovel, from the eave of which were suspended the neck of a broken bottle, and a sod of turf; the one intended to inform the traveller that here he might regale himself with a draught of Irish nectar, and the other that he might also be accommodated with that fragrant plant commonly called tobacco. " What say you, doctor, to some mountain dew ?" inquired Mr. Lynch. " Faith, I'm not particular," replied the doctor, " But I think a drop may not be amiss to your friend. May I prescribe for you, sir?" said he, bringing a very good-humoured smile to bear full upon me. I stammered out something, I really forget what, or whether it was meant for yes or no, but while we were debating the matter, a tall middle-aged man, with a sun-burnt visage, stepped forth from the hut, and stood erect before us. He had evi- dently been sacrificing to the rosy god, and, like the generality of his countrymen, in proportion as his head became confused by whiskey, his heart dilated with love and friendship. No sooner did he spy the doctor, who had been making sundry movements to avoid the recogni- tion, than with three gigantic strides, such as would not have disgraced O'Donoghue himself, he at once enclosed him in a firm embrace. " Arrah then, docture, is it yourself? 'tis myself then that is right glad to see you up the glen. May be you'd be going to Philadown now but you'll be after stepping into the Cabra and taking a drop first, and then 'tis I'll go with you myself, and get you a ladder, and show it all to the jan- tlemen sure." In vain did we protest against accompanying him into the hut. " Sure I'm an O'Donoghue," 222 K1LLARNEY LEGENDS. was the reply, " and my foot is in the glen." There was no resisting this speech ; at least we thought so, and submitted quietly. If the outside of this hovel wore a miserable appearance, the interior was much worse, afford- ing, between its low, damp, mud walls, just room enough for three or four wassailers, and the withered, smoke-dried beldam, who superintended their orgies, and dealt out the inspiring potion. The hearth displayed just fire sufficient to light a pipe, and fill the hut with smoke, which, after gracefully curling about the heads of those within, found vent through the door and a hole in the roof, for chimney was there none. " In Ireland so frisky, with sweet love and whiskey, We manage to keep care and sorrow aloof ; At our whirligig revels, make all the clue devils Creep out with the smoke through a hole in the roof." The love and friendship of Mister Daniel O'Donoghue, which would have overwhelmed us with whiskey, being in some degree appeased, we departed, but not before the said O'Donoghue had insisted on our mounting the shelties we had seen at the door. It was fortunate for us that we did not linger, for scarcely were we out of sight of the hut, when such discordant shouts and yells rent the air, that, to speak classically the furies appeared to have broken loose. " What can this mean ?" said I to Mr. Lynch, " these shouts hark ! they approach us some- thing desperate is going forward." We pulled up unable to assign any satisfac- tory cause for the fearful sounds which assailed our ears, and seemed to proceed from the peace- PHILADOWN. 223 ful spot which we had left but a few moments before. " The robbing thieves of the world," muttered O'Donoghue. " Well, we are out of the matter quietly thank goodness/' said the doctor. " The spillers of decent men's drink the ruinaters of the country ; never welcome them, among us," continued O'Donoghue : " but 'tis the boys of the glen that have a heart and a j hand, and that knows how to sarve such like fel- lows out any day of the year, Huroo, here they -, come, or they'll catch it." " Silence !" exclaimed the doctor, as two un- fortunate excisemen, with old cavalry sabres clat- tering at their sides, appeared in full view, riding for their lives from a shower of stones, the car- cases of dead animals, and even pitchforks, which were hurled after them by an infuriated crowd of peasants. On perceiving us, instead of coming towards where we stood, being perhaps uncertain whether we were friends or foes, the poor hunted excise- men turned off the road, and were soon out of sight as well as their pursuers, who, perceiving they could not overtake them, cut across by a mountain path, with the view of intercepting their retreat from the glen. " What business have the likes of them in the glen at all ? " said O'Donoghue. " Sure then 'tis quare laws that won't let the poor lone widow sell her drop of potteen in pace and quietness. But 'tis the boys of the glen that have both hearts and hands, and will be after making all scheming blackguards, like them fel- lows, think twice before they come among them agin." 224 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " I agree with my worthy friend the doctor," said Mr. Lynch, " in thinking that we are well out of this affair and now suppose we move forward." Glanflesk is a long valley, through which deep and sullen flows the Flesk ; its banks are divided into fields of oats and potatoes, with meadow and grazing ground, having here and there a cabin, and sometimes a nest of cabins, at the foot of the hills. The hills themselves, which rise from, and hem in the valley at either side, are bare, rocky, and rugged, without altitude sufficient to give them sublimity, or brokenness of outline sufficient to ren- der them picturesque, and having neither tree nor shrub to grace their sides. The road winds along the base of these hills, sometimes nearing the bank of the river, and sometimes receding from it, thereby leaving space for the fields already men- tioned. At the opposite side of the river, the space between it and the hills is somewhat wider, and is called " the Inch," as all level ground near a river is termed in Ireland. The Inch of Glanflesk is divided into upper and lower. The hills at the opposite side of the river from the road, exhibit in some places comfortable farms, and verdant spots, snatched as it were from the wilderness around. Yet, notwithstanding this untempting description, the glen is not entirely without charms for the tourist. He will sometimes meet with grotesque masses of rock, and sometimes be astonished at the shivered frag- ments which strew the sides of the hills. As he travels along, he will be amused by gazing upwards at the fearless goat browsing far above him, while perhaps, higher still, the hawk, the eagle, or the heron, may be seen soaring far away, till the speck is lost in the clouds : and PHILADOWN. 225 now, perhaps, his attention will be directed down- wards, to some green retreat, some spot of beauty ; the more beauteous from the waste by which it is surrounded. Sometimes the clouds and vapours may be seen floating around the hill-tops in a thousand fantastic forms, and when these are gone, and the hill-tops are clear, little white clouds of curling smoke may be perceived arising from the furze and heather, which the laborious pea- sant is burning, in order to increase the coarse herbage of his farm. If the weather has been wet, both eye and ear will be delighted the one with the foam, and the other with the dash, of a thousand torrents. There are few things which so completely baffle the pen and the pen- cil as these mountain waterfalls. The rapid and incessant motion of the water, which flows not in a continued stream, running always the same from rock to rock, but comes down in flushes, flourishing in successive circles, covering a point of rock at one moment with a sheet of water, and leaving it bare the next. It is impossible adequately to paint or describe all the endless variations, and I doubt whether any description, although such may perhaps recall ideas to those accustomed to observe mountain falls, would give much information to a person who had never seen one. In the boasted cataracts of America this shifting motion can have little or no effect upon the general scene, which is on too magnificent a scale for the observance of such minutiae, but in the falls of this country it is a circumstance which adds much to the beauty, or at least to the amusement, of the scene. A sudden turn in the road disclosed to view the wooded hill, or cliff, of Philadown, which came Q 226 KILLARtfEY LEGENDS. as refreshing upon our view, as the twinkle of a lighthouse to the weary mariner. Here we were soon surrounded by a crowd of the Glensters, or Glanfleskians, while Daniel O'Donoghue hastened to hold the stirrups, and help us to dismount. He then vaulted into the saddle of one of the nags himself, and galloped off' in search of a ladder ; as there is no reaching that part of the cliff called Labig Owen, or the bed of Owen the outlaw, without such assistance. After the bare tract we had traversed , the cliff of Philadown, from the circumstance of its being wooded, appeared peculiarly pleasing; and the wood itself was not the less agreeable, for having assumed the rich and varied hues of autumn, which he beheld glancing beneath the glorious light of a golden eve. On the return of O'Dono- ghue with the ladder, well pleased did we explore the recesses of Philadown, and right gaily did we spring from rock to rock, now catching at the long purple heath, and now sustaining ourselves by the trunks and branches of the trees, till fur- ther progress was stayed by a formidable rock. Having placed the ladder against this barrier, we mounted, and found ourselves on an irregular platform, to which there was no other means of access, as on every other side the cliff was per- pendicular, deep, and masked by wood ; so that it is obvious, a single desperate man, in possession of this hold, might, if well provisioned, keep it against hundreds. To render this station still more impregnable, it was overhung by the cliff above, which at once afforded security and shelter. A long horizontal fissure was pointed out to me as the chimney appertaining to the fireplace of PIIILADOWX. 227 the famous Owen; and I was also shown a hollow, which was his reservoir for water, as it received all that diipped from the cliffs above. " And who," said I, " was this famous Owen ?" The doctor, to whom this question was ad- dressed, immediately prepared himself for reply, by assuming the attitude of a speaker, and the glensters crowded around, prepared to wonder and applaud. " Owen," said he, " Owen was a famous out- law of the olden time, who for a long period kept possession of this strong hold, out of which, as you may perceive, it would not be an easy matter to drive a resolute and desperate man : but in those days the difficulty was much greater ; for, besides that the glen was thickly wooded, there was at that time no such thing as a road through it. Owen was also an O'Donoghue, as, indeed, were all the inhabitants of these glens ; and though a few other names may now be found among them, yet, even these are connected by marriage with the O'Donoghue : thus connected, and in possession of this natural fortress, it is no wonder that Mr. Owen considered himself not only secure, but at perfect liberty to pursue his system of depredation, and indulge his cattle-lifting propensities. " Moreover, was he not the strongest man of his day ? for even to the present hour, popular tradition represents him as having been able to take a cow by the horns and dash her down the cliff; indeed, this is said to have been his usual savage mode of killing cattle. " But Owen's chief strength and exultation lay in the favour of the O'Donoghue himself, or, as he was called, O'Donoghue Geoffry, who at that time resided in Killaha Castle. Q2 228 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " The Sasenagh had been the spoiler of the O'Donoghue; many broad lands had he lost; and in return, it was but natural, while dining on some of Owen's stolen beef, that he should feel a peculiar relish, and a keener appetite, when he reflected that he was partaking in the spoil of the spoiler. " Notwithstanding all these causes for security, it happened that the support which Owen the out- law deemed the strongest, namely, the protection of his chieftain, was really the weakest of all : for the great O'Donoghue himself, in his hatred to- wards the Sasenaghs, was not very mindful of their laws ; and, once upon a time, a few of his depredatory freaks, on rather a large scale, brought down upon the chief of the glens the vengeance of the powers that were ; so that all the authorities, civil and military, were united against him. " Now this great chieftain, taking into consider- ation that self-preservation is the first law of nature, determined to redeem himself, by giving up his clansman, the redoutable Owen, on whom he laid all the blame of his own transgressions. By an act of treachery, Owen was decoyed from his bed on the rock, and guards were posted to pre- vent his return. Disguised as a crippled beggar- man, he wandered for months through the country, and at last was surprised by a party of English soldiers at the cottage of a poor woman in the glen. " ' Nance Nance/ exclaimed the outlaw, frowning defiance upon his pursuers beneath, * cut my hamstrings;' thereby meaning the straps which attached the wooden stumps to his legs. These, his memorable words, have since passed into a Glanfleskian proverb. But the woman was too PHILADOWN. 229 much alarmed at the near approach of the soldiers to free Owen from his assumed disguise ; he easily became the captive of the English, and without much ceremony took his lord's place on the gallows tree. " Thus ended the life and adventures of Owen the outlaw ; and Labig Owen has since remained without a tenant, except when for a short time it was occupied by the murderers of a Mr. Hutchin- son; but their skulls are now bleaching on the Bridewell in Macroom ; Labig Owen is now only visited by the fashionable tourist, the note-hunting author, or the artist on his summer ramble." When the doctor had concluded his story, there was a general murmur of approbation among the glensters, who, though they scarcely understood a sentence of what he had said, were lavish of their praises, expressed in such exclamations as " Arrah, then, hasn't the docture fine Ingelish wid him ?" " Mo grinchree,* docture, 'tis you can tell a story, any how." From Labig Owen there is a pleasing view of the windings of the Flesk, the opposite mountains, the farm of Upper Inch and even Philadown itself, in consequence of the bend which it makes, adds part of its wood to the prospect. A short way above Philadown the glen divides into two branches, one running towards Kenmare, and the other by Ballyvourney towards Macroom, forming a figure something like j^_ turned thus. Through that branch of the glen which leads to Kenmare, descends the river Looha ; and through the branch leading to Macroom murmurs the Clydagh both meet not far from Philadown ; * The sunshine of my heart. 230 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. and from the " meeting of the waters" the united streams take the name of Flesk. Descending from Labig Owen, we crossed the road, and sat down on the margin of the river Flesk, which, from its being shallow, here be- came garrulous : and here, drawing forth our store of provisions, we began to appease, as the little doctor called them, those stomachic symptoms vulgarly denominated hunger. While thus employed, we occasionally gave small pieces of bread to the children, who were mingled with the glensters' men and women, by whom we were surrounded as objects of wonder. This act at once engaged the hearts of the mo- thers ; we soon perceived a stir and whisper, and shortly after five or six of the women tucked up their petticoats, crossed the ford, and proceeded towards Inch House, an old ruinous slated build- ing, surrounded by a nest of cabins. The house was the first residence of the chiefs of Glan- flesk, and is said to be much older than Killaha Castle, though in far better repair, being still in- habited. In a short time we perceived the women return- ing with piggins (small wooden vessels) full of milk, as a slight offering for our kindness to their children. The sun had gone down before we had finished our repast ; and, pedestrians as we were, to think of returning to Killarney, a distance of eight Irish miles, after the fatigues of the day, was out of the question : but what was to be done ? where was a lodging to be procured ? The question, however, was soon settled by our friend, Daniel O'Donoghue, who volunteered the use of his cabin and all it contained for our service; and, as a further in- PHILADOWN. 231 ducement, offered to slay a fat lamb to give us welcome. Without many words, the invitation was ac- cepted; and, having mounted the shelties, we crossed the ford, and proceeded towards Inch House, near which stood the cabin of our worthy host, Daniel O'Donoghue. 232 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. CHAPTER XVIII. A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. IT must be acknowledged that there was some little difference between Gorham's Hotel and Daniel O'Donoghue's cabin ; which latter was a long low structure, having the usual accompani- ment of a yard full of all sorts of dirt and litter. The very approach to the door presented an ob- stacle to entrance, which a London exquisite might have considered insurmountable ; for this approach consisted of a narrow, slippery, badly paved cause- way, leading between two filthy stagnant pools, which, as they were disturbed by a brood of hard- drinking ducks, sent forth no very grateful effluvia. The causeway being passed, we entered, and began to survey the interior. And now for the general effect an outer room, with a partition wall divid- ing it from a smaller inner room, in the centre of which partition was a doorway, but without a door, and even that to the outer room, which gave en- trance to the house, could only be regarded as an apology for a door, having so many chinks and crevices that every vagrant breeze whistled through at will. But a door was of little consequence, as the entrance to the cabin stood also in the capa- city of window, being constantly left open during A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 233 the day, in order to admit light to the outer room, and at the same time to allow free passage for the smoke ; acting in the capacity of deputy to the huge vent, which to very little purpose occupied the full breadth of the gable, and overhung not only the fire, but also a sort of bedstead placed on one side of the hearth. As a balance on the other, a seat of rude mason -work was con- structed. The rest of this apartment was occupied by a large deal table, a few straw-bottomed chairs, a tub and two keelers placed near the door, con- taining potato skins and sour milk, into which two gaunt greyhounds and a parcel of vociferous young pigs (bonnoves) were dipping their muzzles with all the voracity imaginable, squeaking and growling the whole time. Against the partition wall already mentioned, at either side of the door- way, was placed the coop and the dresser ; the one full of cackling hens, and the other containing a grand display of earthenware, basons, jugs, and plates, wooden mugs, trenchers, and a saltcellar, two wine glasses, one able, and one unable to stand without being propped up, and, grandeur of grandeurs, a teapot, with two cups and three saucers. In the upper shelf were sundry holes, through which were stuck half a dozen iron spoons : from a nail on one side of the dresser was suspended a small looking glass, with a red painted border ; and underneath stood, in a row, an iron pot, a brass skillet (manufactured from a gun of the invincible armada,) a pot-oven, and a griddle. The apartment was surmounted by a black smoky roof, from the couples of which dangled long fibres of soot and cobweb over the earthen floor beneath. So much for the outer room ; now for the inner. 234 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. One side was occupied by two bedsteads, between which and the wall was hung a piece of matting ; at the opposite side was a window about a foot square ; over head was raised a loft made of hurdles, and having a ladder for ascending and descending a bundle of straw lay in one corner for the hounds; two chairs and a chest in the middle of the room, which answered the purpose of a table, completed the furniture of the dor- mitory. We were congratulating ourselves upon the prospect of a good night's rest, for the beds, notwithstanding my description, appeared excel- lent, and had snow-white sheets ; but further in- spection was checked by the bleating of a lamb Ba, ba." " Our host," exclaimed Mr. Lynch, " is doubt- less going to kill the promised lamb for supper ; but I dare say you have as little inclination as myself for such summary cookery. Let us pro- cure for the poor animal a reprieve." It was not without considerable persuasion, and even then much against his will, that Daniel O'Donoghue was prevailed upon to lay aside, at least for the present, his murderous design. This matter was scarcely arranged before our ears were saluted by Tweedle dee, tweedle dum eek hum, hum eek the sounds of a fiddle and bagpipe ; and directly piper and fiddler entered the outer room, followed, I very believe, by all the Dono- ghues in the glen men, women, and children ; while our careful host, to screen us from the vulgar gaze, hung a large sheet before the door- way of the inner room. " You may as well give up all thoughts of rest till morning," said Mr. Lynch, "for I perceive we A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 235 shall have nothing but fiddling and dancing, and whiskey-drinking till daylight." " That being the case, I see no objection," said I, " to our joining the revels suppose we do so?" Mr. Lynch having expressed his concurrence, we stepped forth from the apartment which had been given up to us, and found the outer room thronged almost to suffocation ; even the very doorway was crowded with the merry faces of people all agog for fun. An Irishman may be said to love fighting well, whiskey better, and dancing best of all ; indeed, his legs seem to move instinctively at the sound of the bagpipe ; and hence it happened that the useless door was no sooner taken off its hinges, and placed in the middle of the floor, than Paddy Haly made his bow to Mary Donoghue, and, flinging off his brogues, called for a double jig, and began to caper away on the prostrate planks, making them rattle again with his thumping, as he went through the various movements of a moneen jig at the same time snapping his fingers, and uttering a joyous whoop. The assemblage did their part, and gave loud vent to their admiration at every new fling from Paddy Haly : indeed, to render such movements the more conspicuous, and that not a single step might be lost, three or four tall fellows volunteered to act as candlesticks, and with large pieces of blazing bog-deal in their hands, they stood di- recting the light upon the steps of the dancers. It was an effect worthy the pencil of a Rem- brandt ! Paddy having concluded his moneen, by a bow to the piper, sat down, leaving the lady to look 236 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. for another partner; which she was not long in finding. For spying Tim Murnane in a corner, she unhesitatingly walked up to him, dropped her courtesy, and then resumed her place on the door. Upon the challenge, Tim, as in duty bound, stood up, scratched his head, looked askance at the lady, called for the fox-hunter's jig, and away they went. When this was con- cluded, the lady sat down, and left Tim to make his bow to whom he pleased ; and in this manner did one alternately give place to another, till all had their heart's content of dancing. Of the moneen it is almost impossible, by the pen or pencil, to convey an idea ; to be under- stood, it must be seen. I will, however, to the best of my ability, recount the figures. Down the middle up again set to your part- ner change sides set again change sides again set again dance up to your partner recede dance up again recede again turn half round with one hand, back again with the other set again turn round with both hands, and bow to the piper. There are, however, a variety of figures ; and, as for steps, they are numberless, and, to use the vulgar adage, change " as fast as hops ;" but words are quite unequal to describe the activity and dexterity required in the performance, the grotesque flinging about of the legs, the snapping of fingers, the whooping and hallooing, the grind- ing and stamping, the thumping and bumping, and yet all in perfect time, with the quickest and most complicated movements; so that the spectator is divided between laughter and admi- ration at what is really at once an absurd and an extraordinary exhibition. A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 237 During the dance, our worthy host was dealing about whiskey with unsparing hand, or, in the language of the glens, " galore ;" and, as he did not forget to help himself, by the time he sat down, Daniel O'Donoghue was what is called " pretty well." Then it was that his heart began to swell with pride, as he gazed on the glensters around ; and often did he stretch forward to shake hands with us, as he exclaimed, " These are O'Donoghues these are O'Donoghues every day's luck to them." And any fling extraordi- nary in the dance, brought forth the exulting cry of " There's an O'Donoghue for you. From the crown of the head to the sole of the foot, every inch an O'Donoghue." Amid this continued revelry and dance, a pretty rosy-cheeked girl, after wiping her mouth with the corner of her check apron, dropped a courtesy to Mr. Lynch, who of course was obliged to take his place on the door ; and laughable enough were his attempts at a moneen. To do him justice, however, he got through it with a great deal of good temper ; and then, in order to be revenged, I suppose, he put the door aside, and proposed a country-dance. Here a most glorious scene of confusion began ; such mistakes, and consequent scoldings, for it seems a professional dancing master was present ; and as the place was narrow, and the earthen floor indescribably uneven, such trippings, stumblings, and kicking of shins were there, as baffle all description. When the country-dance was over, and before .he door was replaced, not on its hinges, but on ihe floor for moneens ; I managed to pick up the following tale from the schoolmaster, who had been a great traveller in his youth, having visited ! 238 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. Lisbon, Cork, and Skibbereen, and who was es- ' teemed, next to the doctor, the most learned man in Glanflesk. " Who is there so ignorant, " said he, after two or three hems to clear his voice, " as not to have heard of the town of Dingle, or, as it was called in the days of good Queen Bess, The Dingle but the name which pleases me most of all, is that high-sounding one of Dingle-de-couch but by whatever name you may choose to distinguish it, Dingle, The Dingle, or Dingle-de-couch, be it known that it was ever and always a most famous place, for a variety of very cogent reasons. "And, first, it is said that a man may be ar- rested there for twopence ; but, secondly, living is so very cheap,* that he ought not to owe two- pence, for there you may get a good house for three or four pounds a year, and, being close to the vast Atlantic, you may get fish for a song, if you happen to have a good voice and potatoes dog cheap, and linen for next to nothing ; but as for meat, sorry am I to say, it is so scarce an article, that whenever a sheep is killed, the belman is sent about to inform the neighbours of such an important epoch ; and the death of a cow becomes quite an era, from which they date all subsequent events. u Well then, near this famous, cheap, fish- loving town of Dingle-de-couch, lived Robert Fitz- gerald ; I can't say exactly what relation he stood * Of this assertion I had no bad illustration in the spring of 1825, when I dined in Dingle, after visiting Smerwick Harbour. My dinner consisted of a very fine small turbot with lobster sauce, a pair of fowls, and some bacon, with vegetables (greens and potatoes,) for which dinner, neatly and well served, I was charged nine-pence ! A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 239 in to the Knight of Kerry, or if any beyond being a Geraldine. Robert Fitzgerald was by trade a mason ; and not only that, but he was said also to have been a freemason, and was consequently suspected of being an adept in the black art. " His appearance was by no means prepossess- ing, as he was a low, squat, dark-visaged man, with a most unconscionable squint, and long black hair, which in matted locks curled around his brow in huge and forbidding clusters. " This aspect, together with his reputation as a wizard, rendered him an object of fear and sus- picion to the country people, who generally laid to his charge any misfortunes which befell them or their cattle ; and in his own line of business no one cared to interfere with him, by which means he was left in the quiet and undisputed possession of the building trade in Dingle. " ' I won't put up with it any longer,' said Mr. Hickson, one morning in a terrible passion ; and no wonder, for Fitzgerald, who was doing some mason-work for him, had kept the job on his hands for upwards of six months ; and though, considering he was to be paid by the day, no brother builder will be inclined to blame him much, yet as Mr. Hickson's pocket was to bear the brunt, it is no wonder he should be rather angry, although proverbially the best tempered gentleman in the whole county. ' I won't put up with it any longer,' said he ; i I suppose you think I can't get any one to come between you and the work, but you're quite mistaken, for there's the two Neils just come from the north, so I discharge you this minute, you old sorcerer ; and now let me see what good the devil your master can do you, Fitzgerald.' 240 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " Tis a bad thing to speak of the devil on any account, and 'tis very seldom that much good comes of it : but Fitzgerald made no answer, he only gave a most ominous squint, and muttered * badershin/ as he walked away with his trowel in his hand, and his hammer under his arm, wiping his dark forehead with the corner of his leather apron. " No sooner had Fitzgerald departed, than Mr. Hickson proceeded to Mary Murphy's house, where the two Neils were lodging. " ' How are you, Mary ?' " ' Very well, I thank your honour ; and proud I am to see your honour looking so bravely this blessed morning/ " * Thank you, Mary ; but where are the two masons that came to lodge with you lately ?' " < Why, your honour, it isn't two minutes since they went out ; is it work your honour would have for them ? if it is, sure I can send them up to the big house the moment they come in, and 'tis they are the quiet decent bys, any how ; but I thought Fitzgerald had your honour's work, and they say it isn't lucky to cross him/ " ' Fitzgerald ! I have just turned the rascal away, and intend giving the work to the Neils ; so, Mary, send them to me, and, as you value my favour, none of your stories about Fitzgerald and the black art ; besides, you are a sensible woman, and ought to see that the fellow is only scheming to keep the work to himself; so, good-by, Mary, but remember not a word/ " Now, Mary, though she remembered very well, couldn't, for the life of her, resist the desire she had to tell the Neils all about Fitzgerald ; for besides the* inclination a woman feels for every A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 241 thing forbidden, Mary was a real believer in the power of the black art, and all the stories she had heard of Fitzgerald. When the two Neils came in, and Mrs. Mary Murphy saw what likely, proper young men they were, she thought it would be a mortal sin to let any harm come to them, for want of a little bit of advice ; then, having told them about Mr. Hickson's work, she advised them to have nothing to do with it ; telling them how Fitzgerald became a freemason in spite of his reverence Father Sheehan, how he refused to confess the sacret, and how his reverence wouldn't give him absolution, or the rites of the church ; how Fitzgerald had sold his sowl to the devil, who gave him power to play the dunnus by the black art, arid how, in consequence, no one dared to cross him. But the young men, being glad to get employment, only laughed at Mary's hows, and without further parley set off for the big house, and engaged with Mr. Hickson. " Things went on well enough for some time, and many people said that all the stories about Fitzgerald were only old women's pishogues ; but those who knew better, shook their heads, and said it was only the calm before the storm. " 'Who are them going across the bay, Norah?' said Fitzgerald, one fine morning, as he stood at his cabin door, looking at a boat that had just left the shore. " ' Wisha then, 'tis only the Neils going across to the quarry for stones,' said Norah, who was an old woman that used during the day to brush up, and take care of Fitzgerald's cabin, for he was a lone man. " ' The Neils is it ? run Norah, and bring me a cool of the salt water/ 242 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " Norah did as she was desired, at the same time wondering what he should want with the salt water ; so, though she was desired to go home, she thought it no harm to hide herself in a corner of the loft. " The morning was as fine as ever shone, the sea calm as glass, and not as much wind stirring as would serve to fill a whistle, when the unfortu- nate Neils left the shore ; and yet the boat had scarcely reached the middle of the bay, when a terrible whirlwind arose, which upset their boat, and the young men were swallowed up by the remorseless deep. " Old Norah swore, that, at that very time, she saw Fitzgerald, from her concealment in the loft, take a wooden bowl, and put it floating on the cool of salt water, then, muttering over it, the bowl began to spin about, and the storm to rise, till at last, when the bowl was upset, he stopped his muttering, and said all was right, for the Neils were done for. Be this as it may, it is certain that for ever after, no one ventured to molest the wizard of Dingle." Such was the story which I managed to glean from the schoolmaster, related in my own words, rather than in his ; and he had scarcely concluded it, when the glensters began to depart ; first, however, wishing us a thousand slantha gots in some of our friend Daniel's whiskey. It was broad day, but, before retiring, the doctor suggested to our hostess the preparation of some hot water, to make a tumbler of punch. The worthy dame, not having a kettle, soon made her appearance with a great iron pot of steaming water, enough for that matter to make punch for half the parish ; we managed to bail the water A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 243 up with a wooden bowl, made our punch in a respectably sized jug, drank it out of teacups, and, in ten minutes after it was finished, Mr. Lynch and myself were in bed, and snoring away, ac- cording to the doctor's account, " like two Irish nightingales." 244 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. CHAPTER XIX. THE RETURN. COCK a doodle doo! grunt! grunt! cackle! cackle! and worse than all, bow-wow-wow ! that settles the matter, no more sleep is to be had the cocks crowing, pigs grunting, and hens cackling, were bad enough ; but the bow-wow of that abominable crop-eared cur, puts the matter beyond dispute, and awakens me to a perfect consciousness of existence, and that I am in Daniel O'Donoghue's cabin, with the sad reflection, that this is the last day I have to spend in the neighbourhood of Kil- larney, for to-morrow I have secretly made up my mind to depart. The last day 'tis an awful word, but there must be a last day to every thing, and therefore why should I grumble at a phantom of my own crea- tion, like Mrs. Shelley's Frankenstein ? grumble, did I say I don't intend doing any such thing ; but, as this is my last day at Killarney, I intend to make the most of it. " Halloo, Lynch ! awake arise how the dog snores ! Halloo halloo halloo what, are you not awake ? it is high time we were abroad, and doing. Oh, doctor, how are you? glad to see you this morning which way does the wind blow?" THE RETURN. 245 " It has just changed to the right point," said the doctor : " though it has been very wet and stormy all the morning, and now a thousand tor- rents are dashing down the hills; but the blue sky is beginning to be seen, while mist and cloud are curling up the sides of the mountains, and clearing away from their brows." " An admirable description indeed ! If you can prevail upon Mrs. O'Donoghue to have eggs, and butter, and potatoes, and milk, prepared for break- fast on our return, I should like, above all things, to sally forth, and enjoy ftie fresh air, In truth, doctor, though I am not apt to complain, my head feels rather queer this morning from the whiskey punch, the effects of which, I am not quite sure [ have exactly had time sufficient to sleep off. What say you, Lynch, to going forth into ' the light of things/ as your friend Wordsworth does after a debauch?" " Agreed," said the doctor ; " Wordsworth's a sensible man enough for a poet." " No. bad plan that," said Mr. Lynch, " but does Wordsworth really do so ?" " He certainly says so sayings and doings at Killarney eh, Lynch ?" Having forded the Flesk, we turned the southern corner of Philadown, and took that branch of the glen which leads towards Kenmare. Here the scenery was extremely wild, rocks piled upon rocks in rude confusion, and numberless torrents foaming, and little shining streams rushing down through the hollows and channels of the hills. A walk of about two miles brought us to the wooded side of Croghane; the opposite side of the glen, which was also wooded, we were in- formed, was called Ruscru. 246 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. The road, now rising, now falling, sweeps along the base of Croghane, overshadowed by woods ; through which we had not proceeded far, before the sound of a torrent burst upon us, and we soon perceived a raging flood, which foamed down the side of the hill, and through the wood, leaping from rock to rock, and in many places environing both clumps and single trees, which seemed to grow out of the water, as their green branches Swept its boiling surface. After a feeble attempt to trace this torrent to its source, we found that neither our time, nor our appetites (so much for whiskey punch be it re- marked,) would permit us to remain longer ; and, without proceeding farther through the glen, we turned our faces towards Daniel O'Donoghue's hospitable dwelling. Perhaps it will be as well, to prevent disap- pointment, that I should inform the visitor of Glanflesk, that to see the torrent, as we did, in all its glory, splashing dashing bubbling and foaming, he must go there immediately after a very heavy fall of rain. Nay, it will even be worth his while, unless of a rheumatic disposition, to endure a good wetting, which, by the bye, he will run every chance of receiving, to obtain a peep at the torrent, though we were fortunate enough to escape with dry jackets. An excellent breakfast may be made upon potatoes, butter, eggs, and milk, by men who have walked among the mountains of Kerry. And we having done ample justice to what Mrs. O'Donoghue placed before us, bade farewell to Daniel, who, not only refused, but was highly offended at the offer of payment. As we journeyed towards Killaha castle, on our THE UETURN. 247 way to Killarney, Mr. Lynch drew forth his pen- cil and note-book, and in a short time produced the following FAREWELL TO GLANFLESK. Farewell to the land of the mountain, To Glanflesk and its wild-hills farewell; Where rushes the rock-springing fountain, Where murmurs the stream through the dell. Where the dark mountains frown in their pride, And rocks in disorder are thrown, Or lie shivered along the hill-side, Like the relics of worlds that are gone. Where the wild herds that graze by the rill Look up to their friends of the sky ; The eagle that mounts from the hill, The heron and hawk floating by. Where Croghane spreads afar its green wood, And Ruscru nods across to its brother, And Philadown's cliff, rough and rude, Still adds to the prospect another. Where the Looha and Clydah roll on, Each down its own glen proud to sally ; Till fondly uniting in one, As the Flesk, they wind through the green valley. Where famed Labig Owen is shown, And glensters relate the proud story, Of the outlaw who made him a throne And a bed on this rock rude and hoary. Oh those were the days when afar The ' Eagle's shrill whistle* was sounding ; And down at that note to the war, The sons of the rude hills came bounding. And still on the hill in the glen, Though kind to each stranger that comes, There are hearts just as ready as then, To fight for their rights and their homes. 248 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. But farewell to the land of the mountain, To Glanflesk and its wild-hills farewell ; Where rushes the rock-springing fountain, Where murmurs the stream through the dell. On clearing the glen, we found ourselves under the green hill, on which stands the ruins of Kil- laha castle. This hill we ascended. Three sides only of a square tower remain ; and as we looked up at its roofless and floorless height, we perceived the ancient stone chimney pieces, still clinging to the walls meet remains of proverbial national hospitality. At some distance from the castle, on the north- ern slope of the hill, are the ivy-covered ruins of a church or chapel, around which are scattered a few tombs and grave stones. " God be with you, Father Reilly," exclaimed the doctor, as he passed one of these memento mori's ; "for you were as good and as gay a little fellow as ever stepped." Upon inquiry, I found that Father Reilly, was one of those jolly, social, charitable, old, " butter- booted" priests, who were so different from the political, unsocial, Jesuitical, sly, young, canting, soberly-clad priests of the present day, for which reason, I copied the inscription on his tomb. " THIS MONUMENT WAS ERECTED BY THE PARISHIONERS OF BARRADUV AND KILLAHA AT THEIR SOLE EXPENSE AS A TOKEN OF THE LOVE, REGARD, AND ESTEEM THEY HAD FOR THEIR WORTHY AND CHARITABLE PARISH PRIEST, THE REV. JOHN O*REILLY, WHO DEPARTED THIS LIFE THE 10TH NOV. 1824, AGED 57 YEARS. REQUIESCAT IN PACE. AMEN.'* THE RETURN. 249 Leaving the ruin, and with a hearty shake of the hand bidding farewell to the little doctor, Mr. Lynch and I returned to the base of the hill, and proceeded towards Killarney. On our right lay the wooded demesne of Brewsterfield descend- ing to the Flesk, which river we shortly after crossed by a bridge, and, leaving Brewsterfield behind, pushed on for the town as fast as we could, the road possessing nothing particular to detain us. Rather less than two hours brought us to Kil- larney. We dined ; and, after a well-served dinner, Gorham made his appearance, to inquire if I would wish for Gandsey's company ? Gandsey entered, as on a former occasion, leaning upon his son. " Ah, Gandsey," said I, " this was very good of you to coine to me, especially as it is my last evening in Killarney." " I thank you, sir," was the modest reply of Gandsey; " you are very good, sir/' " Here is a glass of wine but perhaps you would prefer some whiskey punch ?" " I drink the wine to your honour's good health and long life," said Gandsey ; " but the whiskey punch, sir, if you please, harmonizes better with the melodies I am going to play, sir." " Waiter, some whiskey punch. Gandsey, I wish much to hear ' the Eagle's Whistle/ so I think the war-march of the O'Donoghue is called Yon can play it, of course." " Without any kind of doubt I can do that same," returned Gandsey. " Boy, is your violin in tune ? there's the note Week week week squeek that will do. Now, sir, but first, if you i please, suppose, sir, that I give you, because, you 250 KILLAIINEY LEGENDS. see, it is the oldest of the two war-marches of the O'Donoghue, the Step of the Glens/ " (Here Gandsey played the barbarous strain, which the reader will find annexed, No. 1 .) " Oh, 'tis the O'Donoghues were the boys that could stir their stumps down the side of a moun- tain/' said Gandsey, when he had concluded. " And now, sir, here's the Eagle's Whistle ; that was their other war-march, you know. Boy, tune up that note a leetle higher." (Here Gandsey played the melody, No. 2.) " Gandsey," said I, " it is easy to prophesy, that the fame of your Eagle's Whistle will go forth, ' light as beard of thistle/ " * * To prove that I am no false prophet, I may mention, that the following spirited and characteristic words have been since written to this melody by Mr. Planche*, and of course popularly sung in England. They are here printed by his permission. Sound " the Eagle's Whistle," Kerry's call to battle, Let the Eagle's Nest With its echoes rattle ! Sing the song of yore, Raise the ancient banner ; Once again the breeze The mountain breeze shall fan her. Cleave, thou fair Loch-Lane, Forth thy chieftain sallies ; Hail him once again Desmond of the valleys ! Gather, chieftains, gather ! Come with bucklers clashing, Clad in silver mail, Like the billows flashing. Rise, ye peerless train Of Erin's lovely daughters ! Move like stately swans O'er the wond'ring waters. THE RETURN. 251 " How close is the resemblance," remarked Mr. Lynch, " between the Irish and Scotch pibrochs. I remember" and he was about to proceed with, I have no doubt, some interesting reminiscence or remark, had not Gandsey run his right hand up the pipe, with Tir a lee ra tir a lee ra lee BOOM. " Come, Gandsey," said I, " another tune, if you please but something with a history to it." " I'll give you, sir," said Gandsey, " the lamen- tation for " Myles the slasher/ a real ould air of Erin." (Here Gandsey played the melody, No. 3.) " And now," said I, when he had concluded, " now for the history." " Why, you see, sir," said Gandsey, placing the pipes at rest upon his left knee, " why, you see, sir, Myles the slasher was an O'Reilly and if he was, he was like every one of the same name, fond of Erin, for she was his country. Well, sir, when the bloody Cromwellian wars were going on, you see, Myles the slasher headed his clan, and died like a brave commander, defending the bridge of Finea, in the County Cavan, against that rob- bing and murdering thief of the world, Cromwell. 'Twas a fine death he had ; and 'tis as fine a tune that I've played for you, sir, to keep his memory up among the people, as can be, in my opinion. But if he did die all covered with wounds, 'twas on the flat of his back that Myles O'Reilly the slasher was laid, with a thousand voices after him, Up ! away, away ! Light as beard of thistle ; 'Tis the morn of May Sound the Eagle's Whistle ! 252 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. in the monastical church of Cavan, though 'tis since destroyed, to build a horse-barrack; and these were the very words that were carved out over him, upon as beautiful a gravestone as could be: " LECTOR NE CREDAS SOLEM PERIISSE MILONEM HOC NAM SUB TUMULO, PATRIA VICTA JACET."* " This lamentation pleases me so much, I hope, Gandsey, you can favour us with another." " Oh, that I can, sir, lamentations in plenty for sure 'tis little else is left, for green Erin or her children, but sorrow and " Whiskey," said Mr. Lynch. " True," said I, " we have justly been called ' a persecuted and hard-drinking people/ " " But the lamentation," said Mr. Lynch. " Tis the widow's lamentation," said Gandsey : " You see her husband, one William Crottie, was hanged through the means of one Davy Norris, a thief of an informer, who came round him, and * The pistols of Myles O'Reilly, of large size and an- cient Spanish manufacture, are in the museum of Trinity College, Dublin, presented by Mrs. Peyton (now Mrs. Macnamara,) the sister of the late George Nugent Rey- nolds, Esq. of the County of Leitrim ; and the powder-horn of " Myles the slasher," a huge ox horn polished, and with rude brass ornaments, is still in the possession of that lady. In the genealogical history of the house of O'Reilly, compiled by the late chevalier O'Gorman (whose MSS. are at present in my custody,) for General Count Alex- ander O'Reilly, commander-in-chief of the Spanish In- fantry under Charles III., and second in command at the siege of Gibraltar, there is a full and interesting account of Myles O'Reilly. Since I have been led to mention this genealogical history, I may as well notice a curious fact connected with it, that O'Gorman, whose papers prove him to be an ignorant heraldic quack, actually re- ceived one thousand guineas from Count O'Reilly for this compilation. THE RETURN. 253 betrayed him. And so Mrs. Crottie, whose own name was Burke, a mighty decent woman she was, and come of decent people, made up this lamen- tation about her husband." Here Gandsey played the melody, No. 4. to which he sang the following words : Oh, William Crottie, your days are ended, And your poor wife lies unbefriended, In a cold jail, where none can come near her ; Her dearest friends this day won't hear her ! Oh, ullagone ! But soon I'll leave this Irish nation, And sail away to the great plantation ; For let me go among Turks or Heathens, I'll meet with more pity than in my own nation. Oh, ullagone ! Oh, William Crottie, I often told you That Davy Norris would come round you ; 'Twas he that took you, as you lay sleeping, And left me here in sorrow weeping ! Oh, ullagone ! Then came the day of sad repentance, When William Crottie received his sentence; The drums they did beat, and most mournfully sounded, And my poor senses were at once confounded. Oh, ullagone ! I bear great blame from all these women, Yet I'll never forsake my dear companion When first I knew him he was no Tory, But now he's gone, there's an end to my glory ! Oh, ullagone ! Adieu, ye hills, and adieu, ye mountains, Adieu to Glanworth's crystal fountains, Where often I waited for Crottie, my darling, To bring me home both gold and starling ! Oh, ullagone ! " And now, Gandsey," said I, " mix yourself another tumbler of punch, and then let us hear 254 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. an Irish melody with something more of sentiment in it, than the singular strains you have already played. Suppose some ditty, which an unfortu- nate lover might sing to the mistress by whom he was neglected and abandoned. You have an air of this description, I doubt not, Gandsey, for such heart-breaking affairs must have happened in Ireland as well as elsewhere/* " Oh, plenty of them, sir," said Gandsey ; and he immediately commenced the melody, No. 5, " Yes, that is Irish truly intensely Irish," " how exquisitely the violin accompaniment har- monizes with the pipes. Pray, whose arrange- ment is that?" " Twas I, sir," replied Gandsey, "just fixed it out for boy to learn." " Have you any words to this melody ?" in- quired Mr. Lynch. " None, sir," said Gandsey, " though they're much wanting to it ;* but I have some words of * The deficiency has since been supplied by the Hon. Mrs. Norton ; by whose permission, (given in the most flattering manner,) the verses are here printed. Oh Erin ! sweet Erin ! thy strains To the heart-broken exile are dear ; And each note in its sweetness remains Long, long on the listening ear. But even when those sounds should be gay, Such sorrow is mixed with their tone, And each note melts so slowly away, That our hearts feel their sadness alone. Oh 'tis thus when life's sunshine is o'er, And its visions in darkness are hid, When the friends of our youth are no more, And our hearts will not beat as they did : A sound will bring back thoughts that pass Like a shadow o'er all that is glad. We may laugh if we will, but, alas ! E'en the sound of our laughter is sad. THE RETURN. 255 own making 1 too, which I'll sing, with the greatest pleasure in life, to the air of ' Bob and Joan/ Come, boy, scrape away." To Killarney we will go And see fair nature's beauties, The mountains tipp'd with snow, And covered with arbutus. Oh, then, to hear at night, At Gorham's, how entrancing, Old Gandsey play his pipes, Which set the maids a dancing ! Tow, row, row, row, row, Tow, row, row, row, reddy, Tow, row, row, row, row, Can't you just walk steady? Gandsey, to promote Harmonious tunes so jolly, Strikes up a favourite note To banish melancholy. He lilts it up in style, Upon his pipes so merry, The gravest faces smile To hear his Paddy Carey. Tow, row, row, row, row, &c. He plays Kitty from Athlone, And Maureen dee na Glenna, And Noreen on the road, With the flashy rakes of Mallow ; Aughrim overthrown, The fall of Condon's castle, Cornelius Lord Mayo, Who was the boy to wrestle. Trw, row, row, K>W, row, &c. He'll give Jackson's Morning brush And Billy Joy the joker, With the famous Kouth Polthogue, Described by Crofton Croker ; The ball of Ballinafad, The song of Bannah Lannah, Plounkum Moll in the Wadd, And Shaune O'Dwyr na Glenna. Tow, row, row, row, row, &C. 256 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. On the lakes when we do go, We'll have a boat and whiskey, With men and oars to row, Their hearts both light and frisky ; A dinner we'U provide, We shall have full and plenty, Two hampers stuff'd and tied, And wine enough for twenty. Tow, row, row, row, row, &c. Through Turk Lake we will pass Straight up to Dinis Island, There we'll dine upon the grass, And drink like Captain Ryland. " Home, sweet home," I'll play, Then our boat will sail across, sir, And take the shortest way To bring us back to Ross, sir. Tow, row, row, row, row, &c. Now our excursion o'er, At Gorham's what a pleasure, To fill the glass once more, And drink beyond all measure. 'Tis that's the way to see The lakes of neat Killarney, So don't be doubting me, For I never was at Blarney. Tow, row, row, row, row, &c. " Bravo, Gandsey," said I. u Bravo," echoed Mr. Lynch. " You must be thirsty from your exertions ' Gansey, to promote Harmonious tunes so jolly.' So here are the materials for anotner tumbler of punch. You want something?" " Water, if you please, sir, for what is whiskey punch without the water is screeching hot, and just sings to you like a Banshee ?" " Do you hear the unearthly music of Gand- sey's glass," remarked Mr. Lynch, as the boiling THE RETURN. 257 water made a kind of musical murmur within it and he continued, while Gandsey sipped the boil- ing mixture " I never hear that simmering, with- out mentally recurring to an incident which re- cently happened to me. " It was with a feeling of content and pleasure, that on the Christmas eve of 1826 I gazed around my cottage kitchen, and saw that it was duly decked with holly ; the dark green leaves and red berries mingling fantastically with the bright tin vessels which hung upon the white walls. " I confess that I am partial to old customs I have even no objection to an old superstition, provided it be harmless. I did not, therefore, quarrel with the block that was blazing on the kitchen hearth, nor object to the enormous candle lit in order to bring in the joyous anniversary of Christmas. u Scarcely was the evening circle formed around the fire, when I was startled by a low wailing. The Irish funeral cry is at all times a wild and melancholy sound, but at this moment of festivity, the contrast made it appear more ,than usually Bad ; and as it mingled fitfully with the wind that moaned without, it occasionally assumed an un- earthly cadence, that might seem to a fanciful mind, the wail of some wandering spirit. " The Lord presarve us !" cried Debby the maid, " the Lord presarve us ! it's the Banshee ; I won- der who's to go now." " Psha ! don't be foolish," said I; " I will soon find out what occasions this noise. So saying, I walked into the hall, and put on my hat. At once every voice was raised to dissuade me from at- tempting so hazardous an enterprise, but all in vain; I was obstinately bent upon proceeding 258 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. and, amid warning looks and prognosticating nods, I took my departure. " The night was dark, so dark, indeed, that the pathway from my cottage was hardly to be dis- cerned, and as I pursued the direction from which the cry seemed to proceed, I was obliged to keep close to the road wall. I had not proceeded many yards, when the voice of sorrow died away, and no other sound was to be heard, save the fitful breath of the blast, as it groaned drearily through the leafless branches of some old trees which over- hung the road. I am not superstitious, and yet I confess that I did feel certain sensations, which, of course, reason, if I had been able to reason at the moment, would have checked ; it was there- fore with a feeling of pleasure, that I reached the cabin of a poor man named Sullivan. As I ap- proached the door, I heard a low moan from within, and immediately concluded that the ullagone or death-cry, which occasioned me to sally forth, proceeded from thence. But when I raised the latch, and looked about the interior of that cabin, what words can express the misery that met my view ! " Sullivan's house, judged from its outward appearance, might be deemed a more comfortable dwelling than what usually falls to the lot of an Irish peasant; for it had a slate roof, and two windows, without the usual accompaniment of some straw, or an old hat to supply the place of the broken glass; but no sooner did I enter, than every idea of comfort vanished. There was the high roof without any intervening loft ; the cold and damp earthen floor broken into a hun- dred heights and hollows : the whole length of the house without any division to render it less THE RETURN. 259 dreary ; the door through whose crevices the wintry gale entered at will ; the black and smoky walls ; and a spark of fire almost extinguished by the darkness of the huge vent in which it stood, and which scarcely afforded the idea of warmth. A few rush-bottomed chairs, a small table, with a wretched bedstead, and a worse bed, placed for the sake of warmth close to the hearth, were the only furniture to be seen in this cheerless dwelling. The table had been placed at the foot of the bed, and on it lay the corpse of a little boy about four years old; his dark hair sleeked over his marble brow, and his snowy lids sending their long fringes over his calm arid palid cheeks. On one side sat the mother, with a look of anguish, and a low moan, rocking her body to and fro. On the other side a little girl had clambered up, and was endeavour- ing to open her brother's leaden lids. Two young girls, the sisters of the deceased, sat upon the bedstead ; while the unfortunate father, with clasped hands and a look of patient endurance, bent over the comfortless hearth. " The body of the corpse was covered with a white sheet, borrowed for the occasion from some richer neighbour, on its feet was placed a large plate of tobacco, and a candle was .burning on each side. This was all the preparation they had been able to make for the wake, and this in itself was a sufficient proof of their poverty; as the peo- ple on such occasions seldom spare any expense within their power. The first thing which struck me on entering this house of mourning, was the extreme emptiness of the place ; and this ap- peared the more extraordinary, as the peasantry think it meritorious to sit up with the dead, and usually on such occasions assemble in great num- s2 260 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. bers ; for ' to be spent well with ' and to have * a good berrin,' are matters of great importance to the lower orders of the Irish. " Upon inquiry, I found this desertion pro- ceeded from the festival of Christmas no one being willing to go from home on such an evening ' And sure we can't blame them/ said the poor man, ' for it's only what we'd do ourselves ; but I expect them about nine or ten o'clock, and then they'll sit with us till the bell rings for morning's mass." At the time specified, the company dropped in by degrees, till at length the house was full. The men took their places in silence, but some of the women occasionally walked over to the corpse, and raised the funeral cry. Smoking and conversation served to pass away the time, the merits of different keeners were discussed, and many a tale was told of ghosts and banshees, fairies and fetches.*' " Do you remember any of these stories, Lynch ?" said I ; " for if you do, I shall be de- lighted to hear one, and it will moreover be an act of kindness to Gandsey to allow him a pause. Who loves to spur a willing horse ?" Mr. Lynch, without one word of reply, com- menced as follows : "TomCoghlan one evening returned to his house, expecting to find the fire blazing, the potatoes boiling, his wife smiling, and his children as merry as grigs. And without doubt these things are a great comfort to a poor man ; but it wasn't Tom's luck to find matters as he expected; for there was no fire, and his wife was scolding, and the children were all crying from hunger. Poor Tom was quite dumbfoundered to find matters going on so badly; for though there were potatoes enough THE RETURN 4 261 in the house, there wasn't so much as a brosna to boil them with. What was to be done ? After considering for some time, he bethought himself of the great furze bushes which grew in the old fort on the top of Knockanes, and, snatching up a bill-hook, away he went. Before he reached the top of the hill, the sun had gone down, and the moon had risen above the eastern hills : wide and vast was the prospect disclosed by her wavering, watery light ; for on the one hand might be seen the bay of Tralee with its full sparkling tide, from whose verge uprose Slieve Mish, Cahir-Con-righ, and that vast chain of mountains extending to the west, while the towns of Blennerville and Tralee slept dim-discovered in the valley beneath ; on the other hand, lay the bare and barren sandhills, the wide-extending common of Ardfert, and the broad- sweeping strand which skirted the billowy bay of Ballyheigh ; while, far to the west, the mighty Atlantic rolled its waste of waters unbounded and unshackled, save where, to the right and left, the misty forms of Brandon Hill and Kerry Head, like the horns of a vast crescent, shot out far into the restless deep. " Such was the prospect which lay before the unobservant eye of Tom Coghlan, who saw nothing but the old fort, which superstition had taught him to consider as an eirie and a fearful place ; the breeze which faintly rustled amid the bushes was to him a sound of terror, and the distant mur- mur of the deep, booming through the silence of the night, struck his spirit with a mysterious and indefinable awe. Conquering his fear, however, as he approached the fort, and remembering that his children were as yet without their supper, he raised his arm in act to fell one of the large furze 262 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. bushes which grew on -the embankment, when its descent was suddenly arrested by the sound of a small shrill voice. The startled workman let the bill-hook drop from his grasp, as looking up he beheld perched upon a furze bush a little old man, not more than a foot and a half high; his face was nearly of the colour of a tawny mush- room ; while his little sparkling eyes, twinkling like Kerry stones in the dark, illumined his dis- torted visage, which was surmounted by a long red cap, something in the shape of an extin- guisher ; his body was small, and bore no pro- portion to his limbs. Such was the extraordinary being who interrupted Tom Coghlan at his work, and whom I shall distinguish by the name of Little Redcap. " ' O ho !' said the little Redcap, ' is that what you'd be after, Mister Tommy Coghlan ? What did me or mine ever do to you, that you should come cutting down our bushes ?' " ' Why then nothing at all, your honour/ said Tom, recovering a -little from his fright ; ' why then nothing at all, your honour, only the poor little childer were crying with the hunger, and I thought I'd just make bould to cut a bush or two to bile the praties with, for we hadn't so much as a brosna in the house/ " ' You mustn't cut down the bushes, Tom/ said the little Redcap, ' but as you are an honest man, Til buy them from you, though I've a better right to them than you have ; but the quiet way is the best always, so if you take my advice, you'll carry this quern home with you, and let the bushes alone/ * Quern, indeed !' said Tom, at the same time giving a look of astonishment ; for it was so small that he might have put it with all ease into THE RETURN. 263 his breeches pocket ; ' quern, indeed ! and what eood will that bit of a quern do me ? sure it won't bile the praties for the grawls !' " What good will it do you V said the little Red- cap, ' I'll tell you what good it will do you it will make you and your family as strong and as fat as so many stall-fed bullocks ; and if it won't bile the praties, it will do a great deal better, for you have only to turn it about, and it will give you the greatest plenty of elegant meal ; but, if ever you sell any of it, that moment the quern will lose its virtue/ " ' It's a bargain,' said Tom, ' so give me the quern, and you're heartily welcome to the bushes.' " ' There it is for you, Tom/ said the little Redcap, at the same time throwing it down to him ; ' there it is for you, and much good may it do you, but remember you are not to sell the meal on any account/ " ' Let me alone for that/ said Tom, as he made the best of his way home, where his wife was trying to comfort the children, and wondering all the time what in the world could keep Tom out so long ; but when she saw him return without so much as a kippen to boil the potatoes with, her wrath, which had been repressed for the last half hour, burst out like Beamish and Crawford's bot- tled porter when the cork is drawn. ' Wisha then !' said she, * isn't this a poor case, to say you'd come in without any thing to bile the praties, and I breaking my heart this two hours trying to keep the childer quiet. But I suppose you were at the shebeen-house, instead of minding me or mine ; but if I had to travel about with a cad an' skiver, an' a bag on my back, I won't put up wid you any longer, you nasty, drunken, gomal of a 264 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. baste. Here she paused for want of breath, and Tom, taking the opportunity to put in a word, said, ' Arrah, then can't you be asy, Judy ? mind you, indeed ; may be I wasn't minding you, why. See that, now, for a thing I brought you;' con- tinued Tom, at the same time placing the quern on the table. " ( O you ounshaugh of a gomal !' roared Judy ; ' what good are those two little stones, will they feed the grawls? tell me that, you natural.' " ' Feed the grawls ! fakes an* 'tis they that will,' said Tom. So he told her all about the little quern, and how he got it from the red- capped fairy. *' ' We'll try it directly/ said Judy; and they pulled the big table into the middle of the floor, and commenced grinding away with the quern. Before long, the most beautiful meal began to come from it, and in a short time they had every vessel in the house full. Judy was quite de- lighted, and the children managed as well as they could for that night, by eating plenty of the raw meal. For a long time things went on very well, the quern giving them food in abundance ; till they all grew as fat and sleek as coach-horses. Unfortunately, one day, Judy being at a great loss for a little money, was tempted to take a few pecks of the meal, and sell it in the town of Tralee : but if she did, sorry enough she was for it ; for, from that day out, the quern lost all its virtue, and, if Tom was grinding for ever, it wouldn't give them a taste of meal. Tom couldn't for the life of him find out the reason, for Judy was afraid to tell him about her selling the meal ; so, putting his bill-hook under his arm, away he THE RETURN, 26,> went to the old fort, determined to be revenged on little Redcap, by cutting down his bushes. " Scarcely had he commenced the work, when the little Redcap made his appearance : mighty angry he was that Tom should come cutting his bushes, after having made a fair bargain with him ; but Tom, nothing daunted, was as stiff as he was stout, and told him that ' he was a deceit- ful little ugly vagabond, to give him a quern that wasn't worth a thraneen ; and that if he did'nt give him a good one for it, he'd cut down every bush in the fort.' " ' What a bullamskiagh you are, Mister Tom,' said the little Redcap, ' but you'd better be easy and let the bushes alone, or may be so well you'd pay for it : deceive you, indeed ! did'nt I tell you the quern would lose its power, if you sold any of the meal ?' " ' And sure I did'nt either,' said Tom. ' Well, it's all one for that/ answered the little Redcap, ' for if you didn't, your wife did ; and as to giving you another quern, it's out of the question, for we have but one in the fort you see, and a hard battle we fought, to get it from another party of the good people. But I'll tell you what I'll do with you, Tom ; let the bushes alone, and I'll make a doctor of you/ " ' A doctor, indeed ! may be it's a fool you're making of me/ said Tom. But 'twas no such thing, for the little Redcap gave Tom Coghlan some charm or other, that he never failed to kill or to cure with whoever he took in hands, just like other doctors ; and Tom became a great man, and made up a long purse, and gave good lam- ing to his poor children, that he left crying at home after him the night he first met the fairy in 266 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. the old fort. And orre of them he made a priest of, and another a grand butter-merchant in Blar- ney lane, in the city of Cork ; and the youngest son, being ever and always a well-spoken boy, he made him a counsellor ; and his two daughters are well married, and Tom's wife is dead, and he's as happy a man as can be." " A story does not lose by your telling, Lynch. And now, Gandsey," said I, " suppose you " There's a tap at the door, sir," said the younger Gandsey, laying down his violin which he had just assumed. " Come in come in, Gorham." " Sare," said Gorham, " I have taken the liberty of " and he bowed, and held forth a book, " asking your opinion of my establish- ment." " Gorham," said I, shrugging my shoulders like a Scotchman, you must first let me see your bill. I cannot say any thing at present, beyond my having enjoyed myself very much, and having nothing to complain of; but gold may be bought too dear, you know." With another bow, Gorham made his silent exit. " And now, Gandsey, I am all attention." " To what ?" said Mr. Lynch, " you have heard Gandsey's unrivalled performance on the pipes ; you have heard him, moreover, sing a song of his own composition : now which do you wish to try Gandsey at capping Latin verses, or hear him tell a story ?" "'My Latin Comes not so pat in* as it did formerly," said I, " therefore, Gand- sey, as Mr. Lyncli will put you through your THE RETURN. 267 paces, suppose since I at once confess myself unequal to the trial of classical skill which has been proposed you tell us the story/' " As you will, sir," replied Gandsey, carefully putting his pipes aside. " But your glass is empty that will never do/' " I thank you, sir, for your consideration. Well, sir, no doubt you are a great traveller, and have seen many strange places ; but if ever you tra- velled like myself, some twenty years ago, from Cork to the raking town of Mallow, you'd remem- ber the spot of Kelleher's farm, to this hour, or I'm much mistaken. At that time (may be 'tis now rather better than twenty years,) the man who took the new road, from the blessed moment he turned his back on the old red forge at the end of the beautiful Blackpool, if it was not for the new slate-house, close to Kelleher's bound's ditch, might have gone thirsty enough into the town of Mallow, with his throat as dry as any powder- horn of a midsummer's day ; your honour's good health, sir." " Thank you, Gandsey." " For you see, sir, there was but the one place of entertainment to be met with. And a real beautiful painted sign it had up over the door, of three pots of porter, with their white heads on them like any cauliflowers, and underneath was painted out, in elegant large letters, ' EN- TERTAINMENT FOR MAN AND HORSE/ " The place was called Lissavoura, and the same name was on Paddy Kelleher's farm, for I was never the man to forget the name of the place I was well treated. Well, one morning, about eight o'clock, Kelleher was standing by the side of a bog-hole, and scratching his head with 263 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. thinking how in the wide world he should ever lift a great lump of bog-oak, that was there lying in the ground since the time of Noah. He was in the midst of a perplexity, when, who should he see but a man coming across the road towards him, without shoe or stocking, but they hanging over his shoulder, and a stick in his hand, as if he was in great haste after a smart journey. " So up the man came to Kelleher, and asked him, as well as he could for want of breath, if he knew whereabouts one Mister Kelleher lived. " I have come," says he, " without having time to bless myself, every step of the way from Buttevant, and 'tis a sister of Kelleher's has sent me ; she lying, poor creature, in a dying way, and has a deal of money, and no one in life to leave it to but Kelleher.' ' I'm the man/ says Kelleher, ' and 'tis poor Biddy you're come from : Lord relieve her, any way. I'll just step up to the house and get the mare, and be off at once, back with you, honest man." " * Never mind the mare,' said the messenger ; ' if you don't make all speed, you'll never be after overtaking her alive. Sure, if you step at once across to the half-way-house, you'll just catch Purcell's coach going into Mallow; and I'll be bail, when you get there, Mr. Ahern will lend you the best horse in his stable, and have it saddled and bridled for you with all speed. So come along, Mr. Kelleher, if you please, sir, with- out stopping or staying for any mare, if 'twas his worship the mayor of Cork himself come along, sir.' " Away went Paddy Kelleher after the man, without telling any one where he was going, or THE RETURN. 269 saying as much as ' Beaunait De leatj* to his wife so much afraid was he of losing his sister and her money, if she heard that he delayed coming off at once, hot-foot, at her bidding. 1 ' Kelleher got to Buttevant without delay, and sure enough he found his sister there, very bad entirely ; but she did not die that night, and she was a little better the next day, and then she'd be worse again, and then better and so she kept them on for as good as a fortnight, thinking the life would go out of her every minute. " Kelleher didn't mind sending word to let his woman know where he was, because why, he thought his sister would draw the last breath every hour, and then he could carry the news himself; and to be sure she did die, at long last, and left all her money to Kelleher, tied up in the toe of an old stocking. " ' Och, ullagone, what'll I do at all, for sure and certain something has happened to Paddy, or he wouldn't stay out in this kind of way from me. Oh, then, for certain he's drownded, kilt, and murdered, and I to be left after him, a poor lone- some widow, with never a one in the wide world to do a hand's turn for me/ cried poor Moll Kel- leher, as she sat on a siestheen, in the chimney corner ; and then she threw her apron over her head, and began to clap her hands, and rock her body to and fro, like a ship on the wild sea, and she cronauning all the time, enough to break the heart of a stone, if it had one. " ' Why then, Molly dear, can't you be asy,' said Murty Mulcahy, a red-headed tailor that was at work in the house, winking his left eye ; ' can't you be asy ? and who knows but things * ' God's blessing with you.' 270 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. mayn't be so bad entirely ; and sure, whichever way it goes, you won't want a friend, and Murty Mulcahy to the fore/ " Now, whether it was Murty's coaxing words, or the wink, or whatever it was, its quite certain that Moll Kelleher from that out got quite asy, and didn't seem to take on half so much as be- fore, no, not even when news was brought that a man was found drowned in a bog-hole on the farm : and though she didn't half believe it was her Paddy, she let Murty persuade her to it ; for he swore by this and by that, and by all the saints in the calendar, that the drowned man was Pad- dy Kelleher himself, and no other in life ; so they had a fine wake, and lost a world and all, till they buried him. " Well, sir, when the berrin was over, Murty began to discourse Mrs. Kelleher, to try and per- suade her to marry himself. ' Now Mauria agra,' says he, ' sure you won't be after refusing Murty Mulcahy, that's the very moral of poor Paddy that's gone ; and sure you never'll be able to live or manage all alone here, without having man or mortal to lend you a hand ; 'tis myself would do that same for you, as nate as any man in Munster : but you know it wouldn't be dacent without our being married ; so, Mauria dear, you'd better make up your mind at once.' " Faint heart never won fair lady, they say ; but Murty was none of that sort signs by, that he persuaded Moll Kelleher to go with him before the priest to be married. " The Rev. Father O'Callaghan was just mixing the fourth tumbler of whiskey punch, when, who should bole in to him, but Moll and Murty ? And you must know the reverend father had a way with THE RETURN. 271 him, that he didn't like to be bothered when he was over his tumbler of punch ; so he asked them, as gruff as you plase, what they wanted with him at that time of day. Upon which, well-become Moll, she up and told his reverence how she was left a lone woman, without a mankind in the world to see after her little farm, or do a hand's turn for her; and so she thought as how she'd take Murty for a husband, if his reverence had no objection, and that what brought them there was to be married that very night. Then the priest got into a mighty great bit of a fret, and told her she was no better than she should be, to think of marrying so soon after Paddy's death. But Moll, who had a pretty way with her, whispered something in his reverence's ear, without minding in the least his being in a fret. " * The fat pig ?' says he. " ' Yes, your reverence can send for her this very night,' says she. " ' Why, now I consider the matter/ says the priest, ' to be sure you are a lone woman, and live in a lonesome place ; so, as there's no know- ing what might happen to you, I believe I'd bet- ter marry you out of hand.' " Well, sir, after every one was gone, from the wedding, and all the family in bed, who should come to the door, but Paddy Kelleher himself, after walking all the way from Buttevant, and a good step it was. So he gave a thundering knock at the door, for he was mighty tired after his jour- ney, and was in a hurry to get into bed. " < Who's there ? a pretty time of night to come knocking at a dacent man's door,' said Murty.' " ' Tis I, Paddy Kelleher, get up, and let me in; 272 K1LLARNEY LEGENDS. and sure a man may tap at his own door, and no thanks to any one/ When Moll heard that, she gave a great screech entirely. < The Lord have mercy on us,' says she, ' what is it you want now, Paddy ? but don't I know very well it isn't you at all, but only your ghost ; and sure you haven't any business in life to be coming here now, for didn't I give you a fine wake and a dacent berrin, and the fat pig to the priest to say masses for the good of your sowl/ " ' The devil you did/ said Paddy, and away he ran to the barn to look for his pig, for he saw it was all in vain to knock or to call ; they wouldn't let him in, and he didn't like to break his own door : so, finding the pig safe in the barn, he lay down to sleep in the straw till morning. But he wasn't long there, when the priest's boy came for the pig, and was putting a sugan about her leg to drive her away, for 'twas settled he should take her in the night ; but Kelleher, not liking to lose his pig that way, and thinking it was stealing the beast he was, for he didn't clearly understand what his wife had said, up he jumps, and gives him the mother of a beating. "I'll engage the boy didn't wait for the pig after it, but ran off to his master as fast as his legs could carry him. " ' Where's the pig?' says the priest. " * The never a pig have I/ says the boy, e for just as I was going to take her, Paddy Kelleher's ghost jumped out of a corner of the barn, and gave me the truth of a beating ; so I ran away as fast as I could, and I wouldn't go back again for half Cork/ " ' A likely story, indeed/ says the priest ; ' you know well enough 'tis no such thing, but the THE RETURN. 273 glass I gave you, and you going, that made you drunk, you vagabond, and so you fell down and cut yourself, and couldn't bring the pig." " ' May I never see Grenough chapel again, if every word I told your reverence isn't true as the sun/ says the boy ; ' but come yourself with me, and see if I won't bring the pig home, if you'll only give her into my two hands. " ' I will,' says the priest, and away they went to the barn ; but the moment he put a hand on the pig, up jumped Kelleher from amongst the straw, and gave the priest such a beating as he never got before nor since. Away he went without the pig surely, roaring ten thousand murders. " Poor Kelleher, you may be certain was tired enough after this, so down he lay, and slept as sound as a top, till late next morning, which hap- pened to be a Sunday ; so that when he got up, and went into his own house, he found every one was gone to mass, except an old woman who was left minding the place ; and she, instead of getting him his breakfast as he desired, ran away out of the house screeching for the bare life, at the sight of the drowned man walking in to her. " So Kelleher had to make out breakfast for him- self as well as he could ; and when he was done, away he goes to mass, thinking to find all the people there before him, and learn some account of how things had been going on at home. " He was walking smartly along, when, who should he almost overtake but his old neigh- bours, Jack Harty and Miles Mahony. * Good morrow, Jack/ says Paddy ; * can't you stop for a body, Miles ? says he : but when they looked back at the sound of his voice, and saw who they had after them, they took to their scrapers, T 274 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. and ran as fast as their legs would carry them, thinking all the time it was a ghost was at their heels. " Kelleher thought it was running to overtake mass they were ; so he ran too, for fear he'd be late, which made them run the faster ; and sure enough they never stopped nor staid till they got into the chapel, and up to the priest where he was standing at the altar. " < Why, boys,* says the priest, ' what's the mat- ter with ye ?' " l Oh, your reverence/ says one, and ' Oh, your reverence,' says the other, * 'tis Kelleher 's ghost that's running after us, and here he is in.' " ' Murder alive," roared the priest, ' 'tis me he wants, and not you ; so, if he's in, I'll be out,' and, flinging off his vestments, away with him through the side door of the chapel, and the people after him ; he never stopped to draw breath till he got to the top of a hill, a good mile or better from the chapel, and there he began to say mass as fast as he could, for fear of the ghost. But it was Murty Mulcahy, the red-haired tailor, was in the pucker, when he saw Kelleher ; he roared like a bull, and went clean out of the country entirely, and never came back again. " To be sure Kelleher thought nothing at all, but they were all out of their senses, every mo- ther's son of them, till his old crony, Tom Bar- ret, seeing at last he wasn't a ghost, came up to him, and told him how they all thought they, had buried him a fortnight before. " So Kelleher went home to his own house, and his wife was kind and quiet of tongue ; and the THE RETURN. 275 priest ever after was as civil to him as may be, and all for fear he'd spake about the fat pig. " There's my story for you" said Gandsey. " Well sung, Gandsey" said Mr. Lynch. " Here, mix yourself another fumbler of tunch tumbler of punch I mean Irish whiskey is good Irish songs are good Irish music is good Irishmen are fine fellows fine fellows 'tis a fine country (hiccup) a fine country." " Tis true for you, sir" said Gandsey " very true for you." And here, altho' I am perfectly unable to account for the fact, my recollection of what followed completely fails me. 276 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. CHAPTER XX. THE DEPARTURE. A WEATHERCOCK is the usual appendage to most church-steeples in Ireland, but this, the steeple of the church at Killarney does not possess. Yet, if it does not boast a weathercock glittering on its apex, a weather-fish may there be seen a noble salmon, looking as if it had just made a spring out of the lake. And now the nose of the afore- said salmon is pointing due east, as much as to say " I promise you a fine day for your journey to Cork, and I wish you a very pleasant bit of jolting." Vastly polite, indeed, for a salmon, but pray Mister Fish how do you know I am going to Cork ? well, it's not much matter ; since you do know it, there is little use denying the fact, and I have therefore only to return you my very sincere thanks, and make you my very best bow for your promise of fine weather and hark Boo boo boo moo he here comes the coach from Tralee, and there is my friend Mat Crowley sing- ing his everlasting. Riley, really, you're the boy, Riley. TttE RETURN. 277 " Halloo Halloo is my bill ready ? Are my traps in the hall? Is my boat-cloak there? where is my sketching seat V " Go long wid you," said Doolan, who was standing in the hall ; " go long wid you, will you, and be after bringing the gentleman's ketching sate." " You shall have the bill directly, sare," said Gorham: " Dan, finish the honorable gentleman's account sketch it out neatly, Dan, and bring it here pshaw, Dan, what's keeping you? Sare, if it be not presuming too much, I would hope, sare, you will now express your opinion of the house : here is the Killarney album, sare." " A gaily bound book, Gorham but how it is blotted and disfigured by ." " The autocrats, sare, and I hope to add you to the number. " Autographs very amusing very absurd > let me see, who has been here before me." " No supper would I swop With a hot mutton chop, And after that a drop." " W. J," What have we next ? " September 2nd. " It was an evening calculate But little the sad heart to elate ; For fitful blasts, now and agen, Swept loud through dingle, copse, and glen." A quotation from Miss Bourke's arithmetical poem of " O'Donoghue," or we are strongly out in our morning's reckoning. Ah ! here's a hand and style we recognize. " Punch has been shed in this parlour : punch; I repeat the intoxicating word ; and the table, yet reeking with the stain, sends forth its spontaneous 278 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. steam towards the canopy of heaven. He who shed it is still abroad; but, though the beadle takes no notice of him, and the stocks are undefiled by his ankles, yet is he not unpunished. He bears about with him the raging fever of crapulous ebriety, and his head, stung by the furies of cephalalgous infliction, nods responsive to his tot- tering feet. Punch, I repeat, it has been shed, and the shedder walks abroad, while the bill of the Catholic landlord remains unpaid, and the unwiped-out chalk whitens with its pallid stain the creditor side of our Boniface's bellows." " R.S." " Now for the comment." " R. S. indeed it's all damned stuff I tell you nothing but stuff push about the bottle, and don't bother us any more about it. Talk spoils conversation. The way to keep any country quiet, is to knock the riotously disposed on the head, to flutter your Volscians. Believe me, an old batterer in these matters. Therefore don't babble of ' man- cipation or conflibberation, but listen to me, as if I was the oracle of Delphi, or an old brass kettle of Dodona, sounding to you with mysterious voice You will keep Ireland cool by the old opiates God bless them the cannon and the bayonet, the cat-o'-nine tails and the gibbet. " Quietness is best let the world slide as it will, I was ever for peace and conciliation, and taking my ease in mine own inn. Are the glasses full ? no daylights no heeltaps tops and bottoms not so much as would blind a midge's eye is to be left * THE GLORIOUS, PIOUS, AND IMMORTAL MEMORY OF THE GREAT AND GOOD KlNGWlLLIAM, WHO SAVED US FROM POPERY, SLAVERY, WOODEN SHOES, AND BRASS MONEY. And may he who will THE RETURN. 279 hot drink this toast up may he for I hate cir- cumlocution may he be damned! Amen.' Drink it up my hearties Hip, hip, hurra three times three for old Hooknose, and one cheer more. " By me, MORGAN O'DOHERTY." "What a rapid and characteristic hand is Sir Morgan's, dashing on stopping at nothing tattling away and how great the contrast to the pretty little niggling writing here !" * A(H70v p.ev v$wp. IIINA. " As Julia chanced one day to rove, Upon the shore of sweet Killarney, She met the little god of love, Whose tongue, we know, is tipp'd with blarney. ' Julia' he cried, * believe them not, Who say that love is apt to wander ; For where can fancy find a spot, So fair as that bright islet yonder ?" " They left the shore Killarney's shore, Nor stormy clouds, nor wild waves fearing. Poor Julia, she was seen no more Among the blooming maids of Erin For wrecked was pleasure's painted bark, But Lovt? that boy he managed not ill To buoy himself 'mid waters dark, By clinging closely to a bottle." " T. M." " Mighty neat really the Killarney album be- comes entertaining" " The bill, sir," said the waiter. " Very moderate indeed Hum ! waiter chambermaid Hem ! boots Hum ! there's your money, Gorham." " I hope, sare thank you, sare that, sare, every thing was made comfortable, and a plea- sant journey." 280 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. " Now, Gorham, I thmk I can at least safely add my testimony to the many recommendations which you have collected of your establishment/ " Much obliged, sare (aside) why, then, Dan, sure enough, as I said the very first day I saw him, he's a neat little fellow, and a rare sketcher." " There's the sketching-seat," said a waiter to Doolan* " There, put it down along with his honorable honor's other things there ; and sure/' continued Doolan, " the best resate of all, for not catching could when quality goes out, taking off the views here and there about the lakes, is for them never to sit down upon the wet grass." " I wonder why Mr. Lynch has not made his appearance ; he promised to see me off this morn- ing, and moreover said he had something particular to say to me. Waiter, send some one to Mr. Lynch's cottage, to let him know that I am just going." " Yes, sir, but there is hardly time, as the horses are just putting to." " What, the horses putting to ! Secure the box seat for me, if you can." Boo boo 600 moo he. " The coach is just going, sir." " Your honor won't forget the waiter." " Something for the chambermaid, sir." " Long life to your honor ! Sure you won't be after forgetting poor boots, that does the work for them all." " Please to remimber the packer." " My good people, I have arranged for all your demands with Mr. Gorham." " Och, never mind him, sir; 'tis I that always packs the jontleman's portmantles : your honor THE RETURN. 281 may ax Mr. Powell there, and sure he'll tell you the same." * Hurrah for Florry ! here I am ; your honot will throw a trifle to poor Florry, for the sake ol Kerry Hurrah ! hurrah for Florry !" " Get out of the way, will you, till I see his honor. Sure he'll be after taking the widow's blessing along wid him. May the Lord purloin (prolong) your honor's life, and may you never know 7 ' " I'm just over it, sir, God help me ; I'm subject to the falling sickness, and haven't a halfpenny to buy me bit or sup, or a mortal to look after me." " Tisn't going your lordship is away from us, without leaving something among us." " O yea ! O yea ! O yea !" Boo boo 600 moo he, sounds the horn the crowd shout, and the coach whirls off. The Main- street is left behind, and we rattle once more over the paving-stones of Hen-street ; bid farewell to the foul Fair-hill, dash by the park, and pause, for the last time, on the bridge of Ballycasheen. " Riley, stop the coach, can't you," roars a bare- legged boy, at the same time running full speed from the Lower or Woodlawn road, which joins the coach road near Ballycasheen. The driver pulls up, and inquires, " Well, what do you want, ma boughill?" (my boy.) " Would there be a little jdntleman on the coach ?" said he, panting for breath. " Doubtless I am the person, what's the matter?" " There's a parcel and a letter for your honor from one Mr. Lynch. Oh dear, how I've run !" " Very well, its quite right ; here's sixpence for you, my lad. Riley, put this parcel in the coach 282 K1LLARNEY LEGENDS. pocket ; and now, let -me see what Lynch has to say for himself." Garden Cottage. 6 My good fellow, After the promise 1 had made to see you off, and the hint with which it was accompanied, that I had something to say to you, I doubt not but you were surprised at my non- appearance at the inn this morning. But I have been occupied in your service. 6 You have already flattered me by approving of some supernatural tales which I picked up in the course of my summer rambles among the moun- tains, and which appear in the second volume of your Fairy Legends. ' Revelling in all the luxury, as the misery of half-pay idleness is styled, the idea that I might please by my pen others as well as myself, broke in upon my mind like a new light ; and I determined to make a few notes of the tales which I heard, and of what was daily passing around me. This, although my own amusement and employment were the first objects, was certainly done with some vague idea of ultimate publication. But when you mentioned an intention of writing a Legendary Guide-book to the Lakes, I instantly determined to resign all my notes and papers into your hands; and I have been occupied, up to the present moment, in arranging my collections for your acceptance. 6 Receive them, therefore, and use them as you will ; they are yours, and this is what, as I gave you my packet, I wished to tell you. That you may have an agreeable journey, and all possible happiness, is the sincere wish of your old friend and school-fellow, * R. ADOLPHUS LYNCH/ THE RETURN. 283 But hark ! Boo boo boo moo he. And now we ascend the hill which leads to the first turnpike gate from Killarney ; and, as we dash through, I turn to take a last lingering look at the Lake of Desmond : a little further, and all is lost, save the tops of its majestic mountains. " Farewell, sweet scenes ! pensive once more I turn, Those pointed hill and wood-fringed Lakes to view With fond regret ; while, in this last adieu, A silent tear those brilliant hours shall mourn For ever past. So, from the pleasant shore Borne with the struggling bark against the wind, The trembling pennant fluttering looks behind, With vain reluctance ! 'Mid those woods no more For me the voice of pleasure shall resound, Nor soft flutes, warbling o'er the placid lake Aerial music, shall for me awake, And wrap my charmed soul in peace profound ! Though lost to me, here still may taste delight To dwell, nor the rude axe the trembling dryads fright" Such was the farewell to Killarney, breathed almost with her last, by Mrs. Tighe, the beloved, and lamented, authoress of Psyche. * * * " Make what use you please of my packet," says Mr. Lynch. Well, I have done so ; yet, excepting a few slight editorial corrections and additions, his packet is printed pretty nearly as I received it in fact, Mr. Lynch, as the largest contributor to this volume, is fairly entitled to claim its authorship, should he desire it. And now, seriously speaking for himself, the Editor can only say, that he trusts this collection of Killarney Legends will be received with the indulgence usually extended to a mere jeu d'esprit. His visit to Killarney was too short, and too 284 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. hurried, to admit of any thing beyond a few blotted notes and random sketches. Mr. J. H. Bradshaw, with his usual liberality and kindness, furnished him with the manuscript tour of a dis- tinguished architect, from which some pictorial hints have been derived ; and to Mr. O'Brien, recently M.P. for Clare, he is indebted for a most amusing journal of his visit to the Lakes. The materials, thus obtained, the Editor has appropriated, without further acknowledgment, in the manner which best suited his purpose or his fancy. Mr. Lynch has written to acknowledge some proof sheets which have been sent to him ; and an extract from his letter, as all good works should conclude with a moral, will aptly illus- trate the mutability of human affairs within a few months at Killarney. " I am glad to find that the Legends of the Lakes are in the press. But if you should per- form your promise of a visit next year, you will observe many changes ; for instance, your friend Mountain Mahony has resigned his public em- ployment, and has entered into the private ser- vices of Mister Bob Shughure, who styles himself ' stationer, replevinger, and magistrate's clerk/ Oh, that you could hear him, on a court day, enlightening the magistrates with regard to an information, the preamble to which he twangs through his nose with a most mellifluous brogue ; as thus ' Sir, this ish an informashun for ashault, and batter-ry, and mishdemanor, and sheweth, that whereas Michael, commonly called Mick Mulcahy, alias Saint Michael, alias Finnegan, alias the Bulger, did mosht vilently ashault, bate, THE RETURN. 285 bruise, batter, and otherwise ill use, abuse, and maltrate with his clinched fisht,' &c. &c. " Turner, the Scotch steward, has turned him- self out of Mucruss; and Picket is gone to the Brazils. For the rest, some of our old story- tellers have departed this life ; Doolan, however, still stands his ground, and always inquires after your honor ; is just as ready to give visitors a touch of the marvellous, and there are still enough left, to prove the truth of the sketches in your Legendary Guide Book. " You say, that, since your return to London, the question of, ' In what time can I see the Lakes of Killarney V has been more than once put to you, and that you wish for my opinion on the subject. Now I quite agree with you in your antipity to the common-place, and, nine times out often, erroneous directions given by your regular guide-book manufactures. Therefore, let us sup- pose a case : a single gentleman has twenty pounds in his pocket, and ten days at his command. Well, I say, to put the beautiful scenery of Cork Harbour and the River Lee out of the question, he may see the Lakes of Killarney, hear their legends, and Gandsey's pipes, to his heart's con- tent revel on arbutified salmon, and genuine whiskey punch ; and within the short space of ten days, tread again the pavement of Piccadilly, lounge in Regent Street, or sport his figure in the Parks. Here is my recipe " Secure the box-seat of the Bristol Coach for any Friday morning you please, (of course yo travel outside, and, if you have had experience will avoid ' the Company's * Coaches, notwith standing the professions of ' no fees to guard o coachman/) Go soberly, and at a reasonable 286 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. nour, to bed on Thursday night; and, to save yourself the fatigue of getting up by four, Q before, from the fear of oversleeping yourself, desire to be called at six, as the coach starts at seven. While you breakfast, your valise (only a valise) is neatly and closely packed it is depo- sited in your cab, and you are whisked to the White Horse Cellar. Just as you arrive, rattling along Piccadilly, you discover your coach. With a corner of your eye, you ascertain the nature of its lading. The box is empty, but you find in its neighbourhood a person most capitally de- scribed in the two words ' jolly dog.' Rather a contrast to him, is a person who may be briefly described as, ' the possessor of a talkative chin ;' one, no doubt, of immense anecdotical ac- quirementand right behind your vacant place, a cheerful, rosy, gay-ribboned girl, on whom you instantly determine to lavish every attention, and commence at once a parley, by offering her the box-seat : she declines the offer, and, in doing so, shews a set of beautiful teeth. The seat possesses for you no longer any attractions ; by incredible ingenuity, you get the ' jolly dog,' her neighbour, to change places, on the plea that his cigar must be disagreeable ; the girl makes no objection, and you find yourself by the damsel's side, with a mental chuckle at your own talents and tact, and at your change of position, from beside the red-faced, red-neckclothed, red -fisted coachman, to your present birth, where you monopolize all the good of the coach ; separating a pretty creature, with merry eyes, from the talkative-chinned lawyer, and putting an inseparable barrier between her and the ' jolly dog.' Thus commences your journey. If you happen to have been very indolent that THE RETURN. 287 morning, you experience, perhaps, a slight pang at the recollection of an unshaven chin ; but you endeavour to outweigh that objection, by a more knowing cock of your travelling cap. You are safely placed now so I leave you quite to your- self, to get down to Bristol as you please. I make no further inquiry as to your movements, after your arrival in Bristol, at nine o'clock. I do not put a single question as to how you get lodged whether you stop in Bristol, or go on to Clifton, to be near the steamer, which starts next morning at a convenient hour, regulated by the tide. They will tell you on board that you may expect to be at Cork, that is, in sight of the harbour, in from twenty-four to twenty-six hours; but you may be certain of being able to dine in Cork, and dine well, on Sunday, between five and seven. It is just possible that the vessel cannot take you up to the quay ; but, of course, you will not be so unfortunate as to come just at the nick of time when the water is too low in Lough Mahon : if lough, or lake, that passage of water may be called, forming part of the noble river Lee, " Which like an island fair, Encloseth Cork with his divided flood." In that case, you must land at " The town of Passage, so nate and spacious, All situated upon the sea/' five Irish miles, or six and three-quarters English measure, from ' the beautiful city called Cork/ You will, in that case, find no difficulty in proceed- ing, for jingles are there in plenty, with drivers, who will importunately and bare-leggedly wade into the river, to assist your honor in transporting your valise from the boat, and who will convey yourself, and itself, to your hotel, Me DOWELL'S, now 288 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. called THE IMPERIAL, in George's street. A score of ragged rascals seize you on the beach, (something in the manner of the French fellows at Calais, where each recommends his hotel,) and here each endeavours to persuade you to use his jingle, by all the eloquence he can muster in its praise, and to the ridicule of his neighbour's. " ' I'll drive your honor up in a crack in a jiffy in less than no time.' He will unblush- ingly praise his miserable hack, and his tumble- down vehicle, which he had backed, until the wheels were half immersed in the water; while now and then the surf rushes in, and encroaches on the beach, wetting the horses' shins far above the fetlock. If you have not landed, you may step at once from your boat into this conveyance, and you are driven for whatever your honor pleases, over and above a shilling, to the South Mall, which is not two minutes' walk . from your Im- perial Hotel the waiter takes your place in the Killarney coach for Monday morning and you are snug in Gorham's hotel, Killarney, eight hours after you leave Cork. So, you have now performed your voyage by sea, and your journey by land, and are criticising a tumbler of the best whiskey punch, after a capital dinner, on Monday. It is not late : you have even this evening plenty of time to look about you ; you may, if you please, indulge yourself in observations on the town and its inhabitants. You may take your station at the cross, and, to make a bull, see down four streets at once ; you may indulge your- self, Bond-street fashion, by looking at the hoods (ay, and peeping beneath them too) of the Killar- ney lasses, as they pass you ; but beware of the brawny Kerry men THE RETURN. 289 " Untired and fresh, you rise on Tuesday morn- ing, shall I say before six ? Well, suppose there is a little mist ; that is a trifle. No man in his senses would commit himself, by insuring your seeing the whole of Killarney, independent of the weather and in the uncertainty of the climate, originate an endless variety of beautiful scenic effects. " Gorham's your man of information ; your guide-book is in your pocket. The Tuesday, of course, is fine ; and, being so, I would recommend your exploring the Lower Lake. Command a guide ; he runs before you, when you tell him you wish to see Kenmare Park. You can scarcely keep up with him. You get on the highest spot in the park, (Knockrear Hill :) your heart swells as you behold, stretched far, far away before you, the long line of the Lower Lake, with its &c. &c. &c. Now for Ross Castle. Gorham has ordered a boat pull for Innisfallen, explore the island, and tlen cross to O'Sullivan's Cascade. Away for Castle Lough Bay ; look to the left, and you will see O'Donoghue's horse, sirnamed Creaghbo', near the Mucruss shore. Row through Brickeen Bridge into Turk Lake ; and across it, to visit Turk Cottage and Waterfall. Coast along the base of Turk to the outlet, and land on Dinis Island. Do as you please there for I presume not to prescribe your quality or quantity of enter- tainment, as the guide-books do, where they com- mand you to enter this thicket, and walk by this stream. Quit it when you please. But here, nota bene: a basket of prog having been provided, according to the Gorham; eat, if you feel inclined. Nor do I limit a moderate pull at tne whiskey bottle. Remember, however, to give ' the boys' u 290 KILLARNEY LEGENDS. a fillip in the shape of dram, and, entering your boat, cry Hurra for whiskey ! and dash down with the stream into Glena Bay. The men will be in capital humour to shew you the use of the bugle ; and you may leave it to them to startle all the Irish echoes into responses from their respective stations. You glide by Darby's Garden ; and, crossing to Ross Island, disembark at the Castle ; and return to Killarney as you like, or as you can. Here ends your first day. " Wednesday, up again, and ripe for a dejeuner a la Gorham. You may ride on the outside of a horse ; or you may, perhaps more comfortably, walk up to the ruined church of Aghadoe, and from thence, having ordered horses to meet you, pro- ceed through the Gap of Dunloh, enter the Valley of Cowm Duve ; go on to Lord Brandon's, where your boat will be found ; row to Ronan's Island, thence to Derricunihy ; see Hyde's Cottage, and through Coleman's Eye, along the channel, to the Eagle's Nest, under which the cannon is dis- charged, and the bugle employed, to rouse its extraordinary echoes. Shoot the old Weir bridge, and pass Dinis and Brickeen islands, which you have before seen. In Castle Lough bay you may examine all the islands, learn their names, and have one christened after you. Row for, and land at, the Castle of Ross, as before and your second day is completed. " Now, as for Thursday, your third and last day in Killarney, it will be entirely taken up in visiting Mucruss abbey and demesne, Mangerton mountain, the Devil's Punch-bowl, Cowm na Cop- pul, Philladown, and Lough Kittane. This last excursion I would recommend you to keep for your least favourable day, as it is the least im- THE RETURN. 291 portant, and the most practicable ; that is, if you can get any friendly warning, so as to be able to anticipate the state of the weather. If you do not catch an odd shower, or be overtaken by One, you may feel satisfied that you have been very much favoured in your visit to the beautiful Lakes of Killarney. " And now, you may get back as fast as you can ; and, if as fast as you came, you will be able to sail from Cork in the Saturday's packet ; and will find yourself in Regent-street on Tuesday, with the most perfect ease sauntering down in the sun, casting your own length of shadow before you, and looking, except for the unwonted glow which is manifest on your cheek, just as if nothing had happened ; although with the glorious con- sciousness of being able to ask, when the romantic lakes of other countries are spoken about, ' Pray, have you ever been at Killarney ?' >; " Much has been said about the autumnal tints of Killarney ; and it is generally stated, that the end of September is the best time for seeing it. I hold a contrary opinion give me, the freshness and verdure of spring, which, by the bye, possesses in its greens as great a variety of colouring as the russet of autumn. But I will so far compromise my conviction, as to recommend ' taking it all in all,' the month of June; for it has the advantage, and it is an important one, of the longest daylight." We stop the press, as the newspaper phrase runs, to announce the receipt of the following letter. Did ever letter arrive more opportunely? u 2 292 KILLAUNEY LEGENDS. " Sir, It is with enthusiastic pleasure I received the letter directed to me from London ; Mr. Gorham sent it to me to Lord Headley's, near* Killarney, which, when I received, I gave it to his Lorship to open for his amusement. He was greatly surprised to find in it a piece of music of so ancient a date. He caused the boy to bring his violin and play it for him, which he much approved of. He is one of the best judges of the day ; and you may depend on it, sir, I would never have attained my meridian, but for his superior dictation to me. When I told his lordship about you, he brought down the Fairy Legends to have it read for me. I am somewhat jealous you did not afford me some conspicuous place in that very amusing and romantic \vork, as you did to Tim Carroll ; for to hear my Fox and hounds, with Judy Joyce the joker, And famous jig Polthough, described by Crofton Cro'\er, would have been a flattering and heartfelt honour, besides being the only man of my profession dis- tinguished in this neighbourhood. I enclose you an old tune, which was O'Donoghue's lamenta- tion for the loss of his privileges, when the penal code was put in force against the Irish. I have three or four hundred of those beautiful old melo- dies, (never got hold of by Moore, Stephenson, or Bunting,) once played by the harp of Erin, now slumbering in the dust. Now, as you are some- times among the musical society of London, a thought struck me, sir, that you might make off with those by way of publication, or by depositing- them in the Museum, among the antiquities for future inspection, as they are all from Carolan, THE RETURN. 293 the ancient and celebrated Irish bard and musi- cian. It is a pity they should be lost, if any thing co.uld be done to preserve them. If you encourage me, I will contrive to have them sent to you by the assistance of the said nobleman, who is a friend to science. He is decidedly the best man for this part of the south of Ireland, that was ever remembered to come into it ; as the book says of O'Sullivan ' Nulla manus tarn liberalis, atque generalis, atque universalis, quam Headlialis.' " I should like to hear from you, sir, when time allows you to make arrangements. So, no more at present, from your very humble servant, " JAMES GANDSEY, Lord Headley's Piper. "P.S. Pat O'Kelly, the poet, sir, desires his respectful compliments/' " Ah, that P.S. in the envelope looks like the Gorham's writing; but who Pat O'Kelly is, I know not. Billy the mule, Doolan's friend, I remem- ber perfectly but O'Kelly yes, I recollect now it must be the same who greeted Sir Walter Scott with the following : " Three poets, of three different nations born With works immortal do this age adorn : Byron, of England ; Scott, of Scotia's blood; And Erin's pride, O'Kelly, great and good. 'Twould take a Byron and a Scott, I tell ye, Roll'd up in one, to make a Pat O'Kelly." Kind and indulgent reader, methinks I hear you exclaim, " What is all this chapter about? here is a rigmarole of a preface, and in the last Chapter how odd !" And pray where else should it be ? Most people, it must be acknow- 294 K1LLARNEY LEGENDS. ledged, commence their book with a preface, which nine readers out of ten ay, ninety-nine out of a hundred are sure to skip. I have, there- fore, taken this method, to surprise you into the perusal : besides, I think I can shew that my pre- face is where it ought to be ; for, if you act as most readers do, that is, begin the book at the end, and read backwards, I think you will find the preface in its right place. So making now our final bow, And checking all our blarney, We'll bid adieu, good folks,to you, And likewise to Killarney. Then if your eye, all wearied out With reading trash like mine is, Content yourself no more's to come, For here, you see, is FINIS. Directions to the Binder . Masic Plates numbered J , 2, 3, 4, 5, aud 6, to be placed between pages 250 and 251. LONDON : FISHER, SON, & JACKSON, PRINTERS. GENERAL LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA BERKELEY RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWEI This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on th date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. MAR 3 195P LU JUN 3 1992 AUTO blSC CIRCULATION OCT 0819^7 LD 21-100m-l,'54(1887sl6)476 BERKELEY LIBRARIES 810289 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY