AMP LIFE 
 
 AND 
 
 RICKS OF 
 
 RAPPING 
 
 

 
 
 Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2007 with funding from 
 
 IVIicrosoft Corporation 
 
 http://www.archive.org/deta.ils/camplifeinwoodstOOgibsrich 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 OF > 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS 
 
 AND THE 
 
 TRICKS OF TRAPPING 
 
 AND 
 
 TRAP MAKING 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 COMPREHENSIVE HINTS ON CAMP SHELTER, LOG HUTS, BARK SHANTIES, WOODLAND 
 BEDS AND BEDDING, BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, AND VALUABLE SUGGES- 
 TIONS ON TRAPPERS* FOOD, ETC. WITH EXTENDED CHAPTERS ON THE 
 trapper's ART, CONTAINING ALL THE '* TRICKS " AND VALUABLE 
 BAIT RECIPES OF THE PROFESSION ; FULL DIRECTIONS FOR 
 THE USE OF THE STEEL TRAP, AND FOR THE CONSTRUC- 
 TION OF TRAPS OF ALL KINDS; DETAILED INSTRUC- 
 TIONS FOR THE CAPTURE OF ALL FUR-BEARING 
 animals; VALUABLE RECIPES FOR THE 
 CURING AND TANNING OF FUR SKINS, 
 ETC., ETC. 
 
 BY 
 
 W. HAMILTON GIBSON 
 
 AUTHOR OF ** PASTORAL DAYS " 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR 
 
 NEW YORK 
 HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE 
 
 (^Stereotyped by John W- Lovell) 
 
 lf^( 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1881, by 
 
 W. HAMILTON GIBSON, 
 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
 All rights reserved. 
 

 TO 
 MY BELOVED FRIENDS, 
 
 MR. AND MRS. F. W. GUNN, 
 
 KIND INSTRUCTORS, AND PARTICIPANTS 
 
 IN THE 
 
 BRIGHTEST JOYS OF MY YOUTH, 
 
 THIS BOOK IS 
 
 AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY 
 
 €l)e 5lutl)0r. 
 
 V\3\Z^(^8 
 
F all the various subjects in the catalogue of 
 sports and pastimes, there is none more sure 
 of arousing the enthusiasm of our American 
 boys generally, than that which forms the title 
 of this book. Traps and Trapping, together 
 I with its kindred branches, always have been 
 and always will be subjects of great interest 
 among boys, and particularly so to those who 
 live in the country. 
 It is a fact to be regretted that we have so few examples of 
 " Boys' Books " pubhshed in this country. There are a few 
 English works of this character, that are very excellent as far 
 as they go, but are nevertheless incomplete and unsatisfactory 
 to the wants of American boys, dwelling largely on sports which 
 are essentially English, and merely touching upon or utterly 
 excluding othe7' topics which are of the utmost interest to boys 
 of this country. In no one of these books, so far as the author 
 of the present volume knows, is the subject of Traps consider- 
 ed to any fair extent, and those examples which are given, 
 represent only the most common and universal varieties already 
 known to the general public. 
 
 M3it;3(jy 
 
4 PREFACE. 
 
 With these facts in mind, the author has entered with zeal- 
 ous enthusiasm upon the preparation of a work which shall fill 
 this odd and neglected corner in literature, and judging from 
 the reminiscences of his own boyish experiences, he feels cer- 
 tain that in placing such a volume within reach of the pubHc, 
 he supplies a long felt want in the hearts of his boy-friends 
 throughout the land. 
 
 Far be it from us in the publication of this volume, to be un- 
 derstood as encouraging the wanton destruction of poor inno- 
 cent animals. Like all kindred sports, hunting and fishing for 
 example, the sport of Trapping maybe perverted and carried to a 
 point where it becomes simple cruelty, as is always the case when 
 pursued for the mere exciteine^it it brings. If the poor victims 
 are to serve no use after their capture, either as food, or in the 
 furnishing of their plumage or skins for useful purposes, the 
 sport becomes heartless cruelty, and we do not wish to be un- 
 derstood as encouraging it under any such circumstances. In 
 its right sense trapping is a delightful, healthful, and legiti- 
 mate sport, and we commend it to all our boy-readers. 
 
 It shall be the object of the author to produce a thoroughly 
 Practical volume, presenting as far as possible such examples 
 of the trap kind as any boy, with a moderate degree of ingenui- 
 ty, could easily construct, and furthermore to illustrate each 
 variety with the utmost plainness, supplemented with the most 
 detailed description. 
 
 With the exception of all " clap-trap," our volume will em- 
 brace nearly every known example of the various devices used 
 for the capture of Bird, Beast, or Fowl, in all countries, simpli- 
 fying such as are impracticable on account of their complicated 
 structure, and modifying others to the j)eculiar adaptation of 
 the American Trapper. 
 
 Devices, which inflict cruelty and prolonged suffering, shall, 
 as far as possible, be excluded, as this is not a necessary quali- 
 fxation in any trap, and should be guarded against wherever 
 possible. Following out the suggestion conveyed under the 
 
PREFACE. 5 
 
 title of " The Trapper," we shall present full and ample direc- 
 tions for baiting traps, selections of ground for setting, and 
 other hints concerning the trapping of all our principal game 
 and wild animals, valuable either as food or for their fur. In 
 short, our book shall form a complete trapper's guide, embrac- 
 ing all necessary information on the subject, anticipating every 
 want, and furnishing the most complete and fully illustrated 
 volume on this subject ever presented to the public. In vain 
 did the author of this v/ork, in his younger days, search the 
 book stores and hbraries in the hopes of finding such a book, 
 and many are the traps and snares which necessity forced him 
 to invent and construct for himself, for want of just such a vol- 
 ume. Several of these original inventions will appear in the 
 present work for the first time in book form, and the author can 
 vouch for their excellence, and he might almost say, their infalli- 
 biHty, for in their perfect state he has never yet found them to 
 "miss " in a single instance. 
 
 As the writer's mind wanders back to his boyish days, there 
 is one autumn in particular which shines out above all the rest ; 
 and that was when his traps were first set and were the chief 
 source of his enjoyment. The adventurous excitement which 
 sped him on in those daily tramps through the woods, and the 
 buoyant, exhilarating effect of the exercise can be realized only 
 by those who have had the same experience. The hope of suc- 
 cess, the fears of disappointment, the continual suspense and 
 wonder which fill the mind of the young trapper, all combine to 
 invest this sport with a charm known to no other. Trapping 
 does not consist merely in the manufacture and setting of the 
 various traps. The study of the habits and peculiarities of the 
 different game — here becomes a matter of great importance ; 
 and the study of natural history under these circumstances 
 affords a continual source of pleasure and profit. 
 
 Among the most useful, although the most cruel, of inven- 
 tions used by the professional trapper are the steel traps ; so 
 much so that the author would gladly omit them. But as they 
 
6 PREFACE. 
 
 are of such unfailing action, of such universal efficacy, and in 
 many cases are the only ones that can be used, any book on 
 trapping would certainly be incomplete without them. The 
 scope of our volume not only embraces the arts of trapping and 
 trap-making, but extends further into the subject of the wild 
 life of a trapping campaign, — containing full directions for build- 
 ing log cabins, and shanties ; boats and canoes; hints on food 
 and cooking utensils ; also full directions for the curing and 
 tanning of fur skins, — in short, a complete repository of all use- 
 ful information pertaining to the life and wants of a professional 
 trapper. 
 
 In the preparation of the work no pains have been spared to 
 insure clearness in general directions, and every point which 
 would be likely to puzzle the reader has been specially covered 
 by separate illustration. In this particular it stands unique in 
 the list of boys' books. Every difficulty has been anticipated, 
 and in every instance the illustrations will be found thoroughly 
 comprehensive and complete. That the care and thoroughness 
 which has been displayed throughout the work, and to which 
 its pages will bear witness, may meet with the appreciation and 
 enthusiastic approval of every boy-reader throughout the land, 
 is the most earnest hope of 
 
 The Author. 
 
 ^i?-*;,^- '-• 
 
BOOK I. 
 
 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 Introduction.— The Dead Fall.— Honey as Bait for Bears.— The Gun Trap.— Pe- 
 culiar Habits of the Puma. — " Baiting" for the Puma.— Caution required in Set- 
 ting the Gun Trap. — Several Guns used.— Different Modes of Setting — Various 
 animals to which the Gun Trap is adapted. — The Bow Trap.— Vane and Barb 
 for Arrows. — Best Wood for Bow. — A Second Example of Bow Trap.— Arrows 
 Barbed and Poisoned. — The Down Fall ; or Hippopotamus Trap. — The terri- 
 ble Harpoon used by the African Trapper. — Different Modes of Setting the 
 Down Fall. — Modification of the Down Fall for small animals.— -The Bear 
 Trap. — Various Methods of Setting. — Honey as Bait for Bear. — Bait for Puma. 
 — The Pitfall. — Use of the Trap in Asia as a means of defence against the 
 Tiger.— Disposition of the Bait. — Wonderful agility of the Puma. — Niceties re- 
 quired in the construction of the Pitfall. — The Log Coop Trap. — Various ani- 
 mals for which it is adapted.— Different Modes of Setting.— The Corrall or 
 Hopo of Africa.— Its Construction and Appalling Effects.— The Net Trap.— Its 
 Use in the Capture of the Lion and the Tiger. — American animals to which it may 
 be adapted.— Two Methods of Setting.— Bird Lime.— Its Use for the Capture of 
 the Lion and Tiger pages 17—36. 
 
IV CONTENTS. 
 
 BOOK II. 
 
 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 General Remarks.— Requisite Materials for Snaring.— The Quail Snare.—" Suck- 
 er Wire " Nooses.— Six Quail caught at a time.— Hoop Nooses.— Horse Hair 
 Nooses.— Hedge Nooses.— Peculiarities of the Grouse.— Selection of Ground. 
 — The Triangle Tree Snare.— A Hawk captured by the device. — The Wire 
 Noose, as arranged for the capture of the Woodchuck, Muskrat, and House Rat. 
 —The Twitch-up.— Selection of Ground for Setting.— Various Modes of Con- 
 structing the Traps.— The Poachers' Snare — Its portability.— The Porta- 
 ble Snare.— Its PecuUar Advantages.— The " Simplest " Snare.— The valuable 
 principle on which it is Constructed.— Its Portability.— Various Adaptations of 
 the Principle.— The Quail Snare.— Its ample capabiUties of Capture.— Peculi- 
 arities of the Quail.— Successful Baits.— The Box Snare.— Modification in a 
 very small scale.— The Double Box Snare.— The Animals for which it is 
 Adapted.— Ground Snares.— The Old-Fashioned Spingle — The Im- 
 proved Spingle. — Objections to Ground Snares. — The Figure Four Ground 
 Snare. — The Platform Snare pages 39 — 62. 
 
 BOOK III. 
 
 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 The Sieve Trap.— The Brick Trap.— The Coop Trap— Improved Method of Set- 
 ting.— Defects of the old style.— The Bat Fowling Net.— Its Use in England. 
 —How the Dark Lantern is Used by Bird Catchers.— The Clap Net Its Ex- 
 tensive Use in Foreign Countries.— Decoy Birds.— The " Bird Whistle " used in 
 place of decoy.— Wonderful Skill attained in the Use of the Bird Whistb.— Selec- 
 tion of Trapping Ground.— The Bird Whistle Described.— Its Use and Marvel- 
 lous Capabilities.— The Wild Goose Trap.— Its Extensive U#e in the Northern 
 Cold Regions for the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan.— Tame Geese Used 
 as Decoys.— Gravel as Bait.— The Trap Cage.— A Favorite Trap among Bird 
 Catchers.— Call Birds.— The Spring Net Trap.— Rubber Elastic as Spring 
 Power.— A Simpler Net Trap.— Common Faults in many Bird Traps.— Com- 
 plicated Construction an Unnecessary Feature. — Requisites of a good Bird Trap. 
 — Hints on Simple Mechanism. — Different Modes of Constructing Hinge. — Hoop 
 IronUsed as Spring Power. — Manner of Tempering Spring — The Upright Net 
 Trap.— A Second Method of Constructing Platform.— The Box Owl Trap. — 
 Ventilation a Desirable Feature in all Box Traps. — Tin Catch for Securing 
 Cover in Place. — Peculiar Mode of Baiting for Birds. — Modification of Perch. — 
 Baiting for the Owl.— Locality for Setting.— The Owl in Captivity — Its Food.— 
 Hints on the Care of the Bird. — The Box Bird Trap. — Cigar Box Used as a 
 Trap. — The Pendent Box Trap — Ventilation. — Simple Mechanism. — Care in 
 Construction of Bearings. — The Hawk Trap. — A "Yankee" Invention. — 
 Stiff-Pointed Wires Effectually Used in the Capture of the Hawk — Owl also 
 Captured by the Same Device.— The Wild Duck Net.— Its Use in Chesa- 
 peake Bay. — Manner of Constructing the Net. —Decoy Ducks. ~ Bait 
 for Ducks.— The Hook Trap.— Its Cruel Mode cf Capture.— Peculiar 
 Bait for Ducks.— The " Fool's Cap" Trap.— Its Successful Use in the Capture 
 of the Crow. — Shrewdness of the Crow. —Strange antics of a Crow when 
 Captured in the Trap. — Bird Lime the Secret of its Success. — Wonderful Tenac- 
 ity of the Cap. — Different Modes of Setting — Bird Lime Described. — Its as- 
 tonishing " Sticky " Qualities. — The Bird Lime of the Trade — Various " Home- 
 Made" Recipes. — Manner of Using Bird Lime. — Limed Twigs. — The Owl Used 
 as a Decoy in connection with Bird Lime. — Bird Lime used in the Capture of the 
 Humming Bird. — A Flower Converted into a Trap. — Masticated Wheat as Bird 
 I^ime. — Its Ready Removal from the Feathers. — Delicate Organization of the 
 Humming Bird — Killed by Fright. — Use of its Plumage. — Snares for the Hum- 
 ming Bird. — Blow Guns Successfully Used for its Capture. — Killed by Concus- 
 sion. — D.sablcd by a Stream of Water pages 65 — 99. 
 
CONTENTS. V 
 
 BOOK IV. 
 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 
 
 The Common Box Trap.— Two Modes of Setting.— Animals for which it is Adapted. 
 -A Modification of the Trap.— Another Box Trap.— The Figure Four 
 Trap. — Its Advantages, — The Double Ender — A Favorite Trap in New Eng- 
 land. — Simplicity of Construction. — The Rabbit's Fondness for Salt. — Its Use as 
 a Bait.— The Self-Setting Trap. — Animals for which it is adapted. — The 
 Dead Fall. — Various Methods of Construction. — Animals for which it is usually 
 Set. — Remarkable Cunning of some Animals. — The Precautions which it Neces- 
 sitates. — Bait for the Muskrat. — Various Baits for the Mink. — Skunk Baits. — A 
 Fox Entrapped by a Dead Fall.— Slight Modification in the Arrangement of 
 Pieces. — Live Duck used as Bait.— Another Arrangement for the Dead Fall. — 
 Trap Sprung by the Foot of the Animal. — The Figure Four Trap. — Applied to 
 the Dead Fall. — The Garotte. — Its Singular Mode of Capture. — Its Common 
 Victims — The Bow Trap. — An oddity of the Trap Kind. — Its Singular mechan- 
 ism.— The Mole Trap.— A Much-needed Contrivance.— Subterranean Mode of 
 Setting.— Its UnfaiHng Success.— A Fish Trap.— A Section of Stove Pipe used 
 as a Trap. — Its Various Victims, — Adjustment of Bait. — Curious Mode of Cap- 
 ture pages 103 — 121. 
 
 BOOK V. 
 
 HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. 
 
 A Chapter Dedicated to Pestered Housekeepers. — The Domestic Cat as a Household 
 Trap. — The Rat. — Its Proverbial Shrewdness and Cunning. — The Barrel 
 Trap. — Its unlimited Capabilities of Capture — Other Advantages. — " Baiting " 
 for Rats. — A Second Form of Barrel Trap. — Various other Devices adapted to 
 the capture of the Rat. — The Steel Trap. — Hints on Setting. — Necessary Pre- 
 cautions — The Box Dead Fall. — The Board Flap.— The Box Pit Fall. 
 — Animals for which it may be set. — Its Extensive Capabilities of Capture. — Its 
 Self-Setting Qualities. — The principle Utilized for the Capture of the Muskrat. — 
 The Cage Trap. — The Jar Trap. — A Preserve Jar Converted into a Mouse 
 Trap. — Its Complete Success. — Bowl Traps. — Two Methods. — Fly Paper. — 
 Recipe for Maldng. —Fly Trap , pages 125 — 136. 
 
 BOOK YI. 
 
 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 General Remarks. — Advantages of the Steel Trap. — Its extensive use in the business 
 of Trapping. — Hints on the Selection cf Traps. — Requisites of a Good Steel 
 Trap. — The Newhouse Trap. — Various sizes. — Rat Trap. — Muskrat Trap. — 
 Mink Trap — Fox Trap — Otter Trap.— Beaver Trap.—'* Great Bear 
 Tamer." — Small Bear Trap. — Hints on Baiting the Steel Trap. — 
 The Staked Pen. — Old Method of Baiting. — Its Objections. — Advantages of 
 the New Method. — The Spring Pole — Its Service to the Trapper. — The 
 Sliding Pole. — Advantages of its Use in the Capture of Aauatic Animals. — 
 The Clog.— Objections against Securing the Steel Trap to a Stake.— Method of 
 Attaching the Clog.— The Grappling Iron.— The Season for Trapping.— 
 Best condition for" Furs. — The Art of Trapping. — Antiquity of the Sport.— 
 , Necessary Qualifications for Successful Tranping. — The Study of Natural His- 
 > lory a source cf pleasure and profit.— The Professional Trapper's most serious 
 
VI CONTENTS. 
 
 Obstacles. — Marvellous Cunning of many Animals. — Necessity of the Study of 
 their Habits. — "Practical Natural History." — Trapping Without Bait. — Run- 
 ways or By-paths. — How Utilized by the Trapper. — How Detected. — Favorable 
 Localities for the Setting of the Steel Trap.— Natural Advantages.— Entrapping 
 animals through their Sense of Smell. — Remarkable Power of Scent Baits.— 
 Their great value in the Capture of the Beaver — Caution in Handling the Steel 
 Trap.— Effect of the Touch of the Hand. — Buckskin Gloves a Necessary Re- 
 quisite. — Medicines, or Scemt Baits. — Their Great Importance in the Art of 
 Trapping. — Castoreum or Barkstone — How Obtained. — Castoreum Composi- 
 tion. — Recipe for Making. — How Used. — Musk — Assafcetida — Oil of Rhod- 
 ium. — Fish Oil. — Its General Use in the Capture of Aquatic Animals. — Valuable 
 Recipe for its Manufacture. — Oil of Sk'Jnk. — How Obtained. — How 
 Eradicated from Hands or Clothing.— Oil of Amber. — Oil of Ambergris. 
 Oil of Anise. — Its General Use as a " Universal Medicine." —Sweet 
 Fennel. — Cummin — Fenugreek — Lavender — Compound Medicine — The 
 Trail— Its Object and Value.— Various Modes of Making. — How to 
 Trap.— General Remarks. — The Fox — Its Scientific Classification.— The 
 Various American Species. — The Red Fox. — The Cross Fox. — Why so 
 Named.— The Black or Silver Fox.— The Great Value of its Fur.— The 
 Prairie Fox.— The Kit or Swift Fox.— The Gray Fox.— Similarity in the General 
 Characteristics of the Various Species.- Food of the Fox.— Its Home. — Its con- 
 summate Craft.— Instances of its Cunning. —Baffling the Hounds.— How to Trap 
 the Fox.— Preparation of the Trap. — Adverse Effect of Human Scent.— Neces- 
 sity of handhng Trap with Gloves.— The " Bed."— " Baiting" the Bed Neces- 
 sary.— Precautions in Setting the Trap. — The '* Tricks of the Trapper" Illus- 
 trated. — How to Proceed in case of Non-Success. —The Scent-Baits Utilized. — 
 Various Modes of Setting the Trap.— The Baits Commonly Used.— The Dead 
 Fall as a Means of Capture — Common Mode of Skinning the Fox. — Directions 
 for Stretching Skin. — The Wolf. — The Various Species. — Fierce Characteris- 
 tics of the Wolf — Its Terrible Inroads among Herds and Flocks. — The Gray 
 Wolf. — The Coyote or Common Prairie Wolf. — The Texan Wolf. — Home of the 
 Wolf. — Number of Young. — Cunning of the Wolf. — Caution Required in Trap- 
 ping. — How to Trap the Wolf. — Preparation of Trap. — Various Ways of Setting 
 the Trap.— Use of the Trail and Scent Baits. — " Playing Possum."— The Dead 
 Fall and "Twitch-up" as Wolf Traps.— Directions for Skinning the Wolf and 
 Stretching the Pelt.— The Puma.— Its Scientific Classification.— Its Life and 
 Habits — ItsWonderful Agility.— Its Skill as an Angler.— Its Stealth.— Various 
 Traps Used in the Capture of the Puma.— The Gun Trap.— The Bow Trap. — 
 The Dead Fall.— Trap for Taking the Animal Alive. — Log Coop Trap.— The 
 Pit Fall.— Bait for the Puma.— The Steel Trap — Common ^Mode of Setting.— 
 Selection of Locahtyfor Trappmg.— How to Skin the Puma.— Directions for 
 Stretchmg the Pelt — The Canada Lynx — Description of the Animal.— Its 
 Liieand Habits.— Its Food.— Its Peculiar Appearance when Running.— Easily 
 Killed.— The Dead Fall as a Lynx Trap — Peculiar Manner of Construction for 
 the Purpose.--The Gun Trap.— The Bow Trap.-The Twitch-up.— Young 
 of the Lynx.---Valueof Its Fur.-The Steel Trap. -Various Methods of Setting. 
 —Directions for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.— The Wild Cat. 
 —Its Resemblance to the Domestic Species.— Its Strange Appetite.— Its Home. 
 —Number of Young.--Haunts of the Wild Cat.— Its Nocturnal Marauding ex- 
 peditions.— Its Lack of Cunnine.— How to Trap the Wild Cat— An Entire Colo, 
 ny Captured.— Ferocity of the Wild Cat.— The Twitch-up.— Its Common Usein 
 Axri?/^''^^^ ?f-^''^ "^'^^ Cat.— Other Successful Traps.— Various Baits for the 
 Wild Cat— Directions for Skinning the Animal, and Stretching the Pelt.— The 
 Bear.— The Various American Species.— The Grizzly.— Its Enormous Size and 
 ■*^^"''-— Its Terrible Fury.— Description of the Animal.— Food of the Grizzly. 
 —The Black Bear or Musquaw.— Its General Description.— Bear Hunting. — 
 pan<rerofthe Sport.— Food of the Bear.— Its Fondness for Pigs — Honey Its 
 Special Delight.— The Cubs.— The Flesh of the Bear as Food.— " Bears* 
 Grease,"--Hybernation of the Bear.— Traps for the Bear.— The Dead Fall.— Pit- 
 
CONTENTS. vii 
 
 fall.— Giant Coop.— Gun Trap.— The Steel Trap.— The Clog and Grappling-iron, 
 — Their Advantages. — How to Trap the Bear. — Various Methods of Adjusting 
 Traps — Natural Advantages, — Honey as Bait. — Other Baits. — Scent Baits- — 
 Skinning the Bear. — Directionsfor Stretching the Pelt. — The Raccoon. — Classi- 
 fication — Cunning and Stealth of the Animal. — Characteristic Features. — The 
 " Coon Chase." — How the Raccoon is Hunted. — The *' Tree'd Coon." — Varied 
 Accomplishments of the Raccoon. — Its Home and Family. — The " Coon " as a 
 Pet. — Its Cunning Ways.— Its Extensive Bill of Fare. — Life and Habits of the 
 Raccoon — Remarkable Imprint of its Paw. — Season for Trapping the Coon — 
 How to Trap the Coon. — Various Modes of Setting the Trap. — Use of the 
 *' Medicines " or Scent Baits-" — Other Traps for the Animal. — Directionsfor Re- 
 moving the Skin, and Stretching the Pelt. — The Badger. — Its Peculiar Mark- 
 ings. — Use of the Hair. — Nest of the Badger. — Number of Young. — Food of the 
 Animal. — Its Remarkable Fondness for Honey — Its Cunning. — Remarkable In- 
 stincts. — Its Shrewdness. — How to Trap the Badger — Various Baits. — Use of 
 ** Medicine," — Capture of the Animal by Flooding its Burrow. — How to Skin the 
 Badger. — Directions for Stretching the Pelt. — The Beaver. — Description of the 
 Animal. — Its Nature and Habits. — The Beaver Village. — The "Lodges" or 
 Beaver Houses. — Remarkable Construction of the Huts. — The Dam of the Bea- 
 ver. — Wonderful Skill shown in its Construction. — Nocturnal Habits of the Bea- 
 ver. —Remarkable Engineering Instincts of the Animal. — How the Beaver Cuts 
 Timber. — How the Dam is Constructed. — The Formation of " Reefs." — The 
 Tail of the Beaver as a Means of Transportation. — Subterranean Passage to the 
 Huts.— How Beavers are Hunted. — Young of the Beaver. — How to Trap the 
 Beaver. — The Necessary Precautions. — Castoreum or Bark Stone. — Its Great 
 Value in the Capture of the Beaver.— Various Methods of Setting the Trap.— 
 How to Apply the Castoreum. — Use of the Sliding Pole. — Food of the Beaver. 
 — Directions for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.— The Musk- 
 rat. — General Description of the Animal. — Its Beaver-like Huts. — Its Noctur- 
 nal Habits. — Its Food. — The Flesh of the Musk-rat as an Article of Diet. — De- 
 scription of the Hut — Extensive Family of the Musk-Rat. — Its Home. — How 
 the Musk-Rat swims beneath Unbroken Ice. — How it is Killed by being Driven 
 Away from its Breath, — Spearing the Musk-Rat. — Construction of the Spear. — 
 How to Trap the Musk-Rat — Use of the Sliding Pole. — Various Modes of Set- 
 ting Trap. — The Spring Pole — Scent Baits. — Various Devices for Capturing 
 the Musk-Rat.— The Barrel-Trap.— Remarkable Success of the Trap.— The 
 Trail.— Skinning the Musk-Rat.— How to Stretch the Pelt.— The Otter.— De- 
 scription of the Animal. — Beauty of its Fur.— How the " Otter Fur " of Fashion 
 is Prepared. — Food of the Otter. — Its Natural Endowments for Swimming — Ha- 
 bitation of the Otter.— Its Nest and Young.— The Track or *' Seal " of the ani- 
 mal. — How the Otter is Hunted. — Its Fierceness when Attacked. — The Otter as 
 a Pet.— Fishing for its Master.— The Otter "Slide."— How Utihzed by the Trap- 
 per. — Playfulness of the Otter. — How the Animal is Trapped — Various Modes 
 of Setting Trap — The Sliding Pole.— The Spring Pole.— Scent Baits.— How 
 Applied. — Necessary Precautions. — How to Skin the Otter. — Directions for 
 Stretching the Pelt.— The Mink.— Its Form and Color.— Value of the Fur.— 
 Habits of the Animal. — Its Diet. — Its Perpetual Greed. — Ease with which it 
 maybe Trapped. — Habitation of the Mink. — Its Nest and Young. — How to Trap 
 the Mink.— Various Methods of Settins: the Trao.— Baits.- The Sliding Pole.— 
 *' Medicine." — The Rimways of the Mink.— How Utilized in Trapping. — The 
 Trail. — Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Mink. — How to Skin the Ani- 
 mal. — The Pine Marten. — Description of the Animal. — Its Natural Character- 
 istics.— Its Nocturnal Habits.— Its Wonderful Stealth and Activity — Its " Bill 
 of Fare." — Its Strange mode of Seizing Prey. — The Marten as a Pet. — Its 
 Agreeable Odor. — Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Marten.— Baits for 
 the Marten.— -The Steel Trap.— Several Modes of Setting.— Directions for Skin- 
 ning the Animal. — The Fisher — Its Form and Color. — Its Habitation and 
 Young. — How the Animal is Trapped. — Various Methods. — The Spring Pole. — 
 Baits for the Fisher.— Principal Devices Used in its Capture.— The Skin.— How 
 
11 CONTENTS. 
 
 Removed and Stretched.— The Skunk,— Its Fetid Stench.— Origin of the 
 Odor.— Its Effect on Man and Beast — " Premonitory Symptoms" of Attack.— 
 Acrid Qualities of the Secretion.— Its Terrible Effect on the Eyes.— Interesting 
 Adventure with a Skunk — " Appearances are often Deceitful."— The Skimk as 
 a Pet. — Color of the Animal. — Habits of the Animal. — Its Food. — Its Young. — 
 *' Alaska Sable."— How to Trap the Skunk.— Various Traps Used.— The Steel 
 Trap.— Different Modes of Setting.— Baits.— The Dead Fall.— Modification in its 
 Construction.— The Twitch-up.— Its Peculiar Advantages for the Capture of the 
 Skunk.— Chloride of Lime as an Antidote.— Method of Eradicating the Odor 
 from the Clothing.— Directions for Removing and Stretching the Skin.— The 
 Wolverine.— Its Desperate Fierceness and voracity.— Its General Character- 
 istics.— Its Form and Color — Food of the Wolverine.— Its Trap-Robbing Pro- 
 pensities.— How to Trap the Wolverine.— Baits — Use of the " Medicine-"— The 
 Gun Trap and Dead Fall.— The Steel Trap.-^ Various Modes of Setting.— Home 
 and Young of the Animal.— How the Skin should be Removed and Stretched.— 
 The Opossum.— Description of the Animal — Its Nature and Habits.— Its Home. 
 —Remarkable Mode of Carrying its Young.— Nocturnal Habits of the Animal.— 
 Its Food.— Its Especial Fondness for Persimmons.— Its Remarkable Tenacity 
 as a Climber.— " Playing Possum."— How the Opossum is Hunted.— How 
 Trapped.— Various Devices Used in its Capture.— Scent Baits.— How the Skin is 
 Removed and Stretched.— The Rabbit.— Wide-spread Distribution of the 
 Various Species.— Their Remarkable Powers of Speed.— Nest of the Rabbit.— Its 
 Prohfic Offspring,— Food of the Rabbit.— Its Enemies— Various Devices Used in 
 Trapping the Animal.— Necessary Precautions in Skinning the Rabbit.— The 
 WooDCHUCK.— Description of the Animal.— Its Habits.--Its Burrows — Its Food 
 — Toughness of the Skin. — Its Use. — Nest of the Animal. — The Woodchuck as 
 Food.— How the Animal is Trapped — The Steel Trap.— The Spring Pole.— The 
 Twitch-up. — How the Woodchuck is "Drowned Out." — The Turtle as a Ferret. — 
 Smoking the Burrows. — Directions for Skinning the Animah — The Gopher — 
 Its Burrows. — Its Food. — Remarkable Cheek Pouches of the Animal. — Their 
 Use — How to Trap the Animal. — How the Skin is Removed. — The Mole. — Its 
 Varied Accomplishments — Its Remarkable Dwellings — Complicated Structure 
 of the Habitation — The Fury and Voracity of the Mole. — Peculiarities of Its Fur. 
 — A Waistcoat of Mole Skins.— Odor of the Mole.— Mole Traps. — Various Species 
 of the Mole.— The Mole of the Cape of Good Hope.— Marvellous Beauty of Its 
 Fur. — Squirrels. — Their General Peculiarities of Form and Habit.— Their 
 Food — Their Provident Instincts.—" Nutting" in Midwinter.— The Nest of the 
 Squirrel.— Burrowing Squirrels.- The Various American Species — The Grey 
 Squirrel.— The Chipmuck.— The Chickaree.— The Flying Squirrel, &c.— How 
 Squirrels are Trapped.— Various Traps Used in their Capture.— Removal of 
 Skin.— The Deek.— Difficnltv of Hunting the Animal in Dry Seasons.— 
 Various American S-^ecies of the Deer.— How the Deer is Trapped.— Peculiar 
 Construction of the Tran.— Scent Bait for the Deer.— Various Methods of Setting 
 the Trap.— Violence of the Deer when Trapped.— The Clog.— Dead Falls.— 
 Food of the Deer.— Deer "Ynrds."— Natural Enemies cf the Deer.--Hcw 
 the Deer is Hunted.— "Still Hunting."— The Deer's Acute Sense of Smell. 
 —How to Detect the Direction of the Wind.— Natural Habits of the Deer. 
 — " Night Hunting."— Luminositv of the Eyes of the Deer at Night.— Hvvntirg 
 thedcerwithdogs.— "DeerLicks'."- How Salt is used in Hunting the Deer. 
 — Htmtincr from a Scaffolding.— Peculiar Sight cf Deer-— V %t^i i^^ 
 used in Night Huntine.— Head Lantern.— How made.— How used.— The fiery 
 Fves of the Deer. — " Fox I'ire " or Phosphorescent wood, — How "^^^ ^^ 
 Hunter — Seasons for Deer hunting. — How to skin the Deer. — The ?P^^"~T 
 Description of the animal. — Immense size of its Horns. — Moose yprds. — Himted 
 on Snow shoes. — The danp^ers of Moose Hunting. — Exnuisite sense of Smell. — How 
 the Moose is Trapped. — Directions for removing the Skin of the Animal. — Rocky 
 Mountain Sheep.— Description of the Animal. — Its enormous Horns.— Habits cf 
 the creature — Its flesh as Food. — How the Animal is Trapped. — The Buffalo. — 
 Its Habits.— Its Food.—Buffalo-grass.— Howthe Animal is Hunted and Trapped.-* 
 
CONTENTS. ix 
 
 Buffalo flesh as Food. — Buffalo skins. — The Prong Horn Antelope.— Descrip- 
 tion of the Animal— Peculiarity of Horn. — How the creature is Hunted and Destroy- 
 ed by the Indians.— Remarkable sense of Smell of the Animal.— Its Beauty and 
 grace. — Flesh of the Antelope as Food. — How the Animal is Trapped. — Various 
 Traps used in their Capture. — The Dead-fall. — Pit-fall. — How to remove the Hide 
 of the Animal. — Shooting and Poisoning. — '• Shot furs." — " Poisoned furs." — 
 " Trapped furs." — Their relative Value in the Fur Market. — Effect of grazing shot 
 on fur.— Effect of Poison on Fur. — Remarks on the use of Poison. — Strychnine. — 
 Poisoning Wolves. — Recipe for mixing the Poison. — Poisoning the Bear, — How 
 the Dose is Prepared Pages 137-222- 
 
 BOOK VII. 
 
 CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS. 
 
 Introductorj^ Remarks.— " Amateur Trapping." — Plan of Campaign. — Selection 
 of Trapping-ground. — Advantages of a Watered District.— Labor of transportation 
 lightened by Boating. — Lakes, Ponds and Streams. —The Adirondacks and AUegha- 
 nies — Remarks on the " Home Shanty." — Selection of Site for building. — Value 
 of a good Axe— Remarks on the Bark Shanty. — Its value in case of Storms. — 
 Wise fore-sight — Remarks on the Indian Birch-bark Canoe.— Dug-out and Bateau. — 
 Commencement of Trapping Season. — Advantages of preliminary preparation. — 
 Extensive route of the Professional Trapper. — Sixty pounds of Personal Lug- 
 gage. — How the traps and provisions are distributed along the Trapping lines. — U.se 
 of the "Home Shanty." — " Keeping Shanty." — Necessity of its being Guarded. 
 — Wolves and Bears as thieves. — Steel Traps considered. — Number used in a 
 Professional Campaign. — Number for an Amateur Campaign. — Their Probable 
 Cost.— The average size of Trap.— Dead-falls, Twitchups, &c., considered.— Re- 
 quisite Tools for a Campaign.— A " House-wife" a valuable necessity.— " Clean- 
 liness next to Godliness."— The Trappers' Light.— Comparative value of Lanterns 
 and Candles.— The Trappers' Personal outfit.— The jack-knife — The Pocket- 
 Compass.— Necessity of preparing for Emergencies.— Shot guns and Rifles.— 
 Both combined in the same weapon.— Oil for Fire Arms.— Fat of the Grouse 
 Used on Fire Arms.— Fishing tackle.— The Trappers' portable stove.— The Stove 
 versus The Open Fire.— The Trapper's Clothing.- The Material and Colon- 
 Boots.— High-topped Boots.— Short Boots — Their Relative Qualities.— Water- 
 proof Boot Dressing.— Recipe — The Trapping Season.— Hints on Trapping-lines. 
 —The *' Wheel" plan.— Mode of following the lines.— " Trap Robbers" or 
 ' Poachers."— How to guard against them.— Hiding furs.— How to store Traps 
 from Season to Season.— Gnats and Mosquitoes.— The " Smudge."— How made. 
 —Food and Cooking Utensils.—" Roughing it."—" A chance Chip for a Frv- 
 ing Pan." — A "happy medium" between two extremes. — Cosy and Comfortable 
 living on a Campaign.— Portable Food — Combined Nutriment and lightness in 
 weight to be desired.— The Tranpers' Culinary Outfit.— Indian meal as Food.— 
 The Trappers' "Staff of Life."— Wheat flour.— Salt Pork.— Seasoning.— Pork 
 Fritters a luxury. — Cooking Utensils.— The "Telescope" drinking cup. — Recipe 
 for making Pork Fritters.— " Chop Sticks" k la "Chinee."— A Flat Chip as a 
 Piate.—Boiled Mush.— Old "Stand by."— Recipe.— Fried Mush.— Indian meal 
 Cakes.— Recipe. — Johnny Cake. — Recipe. — Hoe Cakes. — Recipe. — Fresh fish. — 
 How to Cook fi=;h in a most Delicious manner. — Prof. Blot, and Delmonico, out- 
 done. — The " Ne plus ultra" of delicacies. — All the sweet Juices of the Fish 
 preserved. — Disadvantages of the ordinary method of cooking. — Partridge, Duck, 
 Quail, Cooked deliciously. — Roasting unrivalled! — Hints on Broiling. — An ex- 
 temporized Spider or Toaster — Roasting on a spit. — Venison, Bear, and Moose 
 M^at broiled in the best style. — Venison cutlets. — The Camp fire. — Usual mode 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 of building Fire. — How the Kettle is suspended. — "Luxuries"' considered.— The 
 Knapsack a desirable Acquisition. — Matches. — The Bottle Match-safe. — Water- 
 proof Matches. — How made. — Lucifer Matches. — Recipe for Waterproof prepara- 
 tion. — The Pocket Sun Glass. — A necessary adjunct to a Trapper's Outfit. — Its 
 Advantages in cases of emergency. — " Touch wood " or " Punk Tinder," valuable 
 in lighting fires. — How to light Fires without matches or Sun glass. — How to light 
 a fire without Matches, Sun Glass, Powder, or Percussion Caps. — A last Resort. — 
 Matches best in the long run. — The Portable Camp Stove described. — Its accom- 
 panying Furniture. — The Combination Camp-knife. — Hints on Provisions. — Pota- 
 toes as food. — Beans. — "Self raising" Wheat flour. — Light Bread, Biscuit and 
 Pancakes in Camp. — Various accessories. — Oave Oil for purposes of Frying. — 
 Pork. — Indian meal. — Crackers. — Wheaten Grits. — Rice and Oatmeal. — Tea and 
 Coffee. — Soups. — Liebig's Extract of Beef.— Canned Vegetables, — Lemonade. — 
 Waterproof bags for provisions. — Painted bags. — Caution ! — Waterproof prepara- 
 tion — Air-tight jars for Butter. — Knapsack or Shoulder Basket. — Venison as food. 
 — To preserve the overplus of meat. — " Jerked Venison" Recipe and Pi-ocess, — 
 Moose and Bear meat and Fish, similarly prepared. — How to protect provisions 
 from Wolves — The Moufflon and Prong-horn as food. — '" Small game," Squirrels, 
 Rabbits, and Woodchucks. — " Skunk Meat" as a delicacy. — The Buffalo as food. 
 — Grouse, the universal Food of Trappers and Hunters. — Various species of 
 Grouse. — The Sage Cock. — The Ptarmigan. — How they are trapped by the In- 
 dians in the Hudson'sjBay Country. — Waterfowl. — Sea and Inland Ducks. — Various 
 species of Duck. — Mallard. — Muscovy. — Wigeon. — Merganser. — Canvass Back. 
 — Teal, &c. — Wild Geese. — Fish as food. — Angling and Spearing. — Salmon 
 Spearing in the North. — Description of the Salmon Spear used by the Indians. — 
 Salmon Spearing at night. — Requisites of a good Spearsman. — Fishing through 
 the Ice — Cow's udder and Hogs liver as Bait. — Other Baits. — Assafoetida and 
 Sweet Cicely as fish Baits. — Trout fishing with Tip-up's. — Pickerel fishing in 
 Winter. — Pickerel Spearing through the Ice. — The Box Hut. — The *' Fish Lan- 
 tern'' or Fish Trap. — Fish Attracted by light. — Light as Bait. — How the Fish 
 Lantern is made and used. — The Trapper's Shelter. — Introductory remarks. 
 — The Perils of a Life in the Wilderness. — A Shelter of some form a Necessity. — 
 The Log Shanty. — Full directions for building. — Ingenious manner of constructing 
 roof. — How the Chimney is built. — Spacious interior of the Shanty. — The Bark 
 Shanty. — A Temporary structure. — Full directions for its construction. — Selec- 
 tion of building site. — Tents. — Advantages of their use. — Various kinds of Tents. 
 — The House Tent. — The Fly Tent. — The Shelter Tent. — Directions for making 
 the Tent. — Tent Cloth. — How to render tents Water and Fire-proof. — Valuable 
 recipe. — Beds and Bedding. — Perfect rest and comfort to the tired Trapper. 
 — A portable Spring bed for the woods. — A Hammock bed.— Bed Clothes. — The 
 Canton Flannel Bag.— Hammocks. — Tent Carpeting. — Spruce and Hemlock 
 boughs as bedding. — How to cover the ground evenly. The Rubber Blanket. 
 
 pages 225-236. 
 
 BOOK VIII. 
 THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY. 
 
 ^ Warning to the Novice. — Winched Cannibals of the Woods. — Insect Ointments. 
 — Mosquitoes and Gnats. — Their aversion to the scent of Pennyroyal. — Pennv- 
 royal Ointment — Recipe.— Mutton tallow Ointment.— Tar and Sweet Oil Lini- 
 ment. — Recipe. — Its effect on the Complexion. — Invasions of Insects by night. — 
 Their pertinacity and severity.— The experience of out Adirondack guide.— The 
 bloodthirsty propensities of the Mosquito admirabV depicted. — The "Smudge" 
 Smoke versus Insect Bites. — "Punkeys'- and "Midgets." — Their terrible vora- 
 city. — Painful effects of their Bites,— Pennyroyal an effective Antidote.— Depraved 
 
CONTENTS. xi 
 
 appetite of the mosquito. — A Warning to the Intemperate. — Use and abuse of Al- 
 cohol. — A Popular error corrected. — A substitute for Whiskey and Brandy. — Red 
 Pepper Tea.— Its great value as a remedy in Illness. — The Mosquitoes' favorite 
 Victim. — Result of the bite of the insect. — The Mosquito Head-Net. — Directions 
 for making the Net. — Netting attachment for the Hat. — Portable Sun Shade or 
 Hat brim, — Netting attachment for the Hat brim. — Boat Building.— A Boat of 
 some kind a necessity to the Trapper. — The ** Dug-Out" or Log Canoe. — Requi- 
 site Tools for its Manufacture. — Selection of the Log. — Directions for making the 
 boat. — Remarkable thinness to which they may be reduced. — Lightness of the 
 boat. — How to gauge the thickness. — How to stop leaks. — The Indian or Birch 
 Bark Canoe. — The Indian as a Canoe-maker. — His remarkable skill. — Perfection 
 of the Indian made Canoe, — Description of the Canoe. — Capacity of the various 
 sizes.— How to construct a Bark Canoe. — Selection of Bark. — How to prevent 
 Leaks. — Material used by the Indians in sewing the Bark. — Advantages of the 
 Birch Bark Canoe. — Basswood, Hemlock, and Spruce Bark Canoes. — A Light 
 . Home-made Boat. — Selection of Boards. — Directions for making the Boat. — 
 Caulking the seams.— Value of Pitch for waterproofing purposes — How it should 
 be applied.— The Scow.— How to construct the ordinary Flat-bottomed Boat.— 
 The Mud-stick.— Snow Shoes.— A necessity for winter travel.— The "Snow 
 Shoe Race."— The mysteries of a Snow Shoe.—" Taming the Snow Shoe."— How 
 to make the Snow Shoe.— Complicated Net-work. — Two methods of attaching the 
 Net-work.— How the Snow Shoe is worn. — The Toboggan or Indian Sledge. 
 — Its value to the Trapper. — Winter Coastine. — Great sport with the Toboggan. — 
 How to make a Toboggan — Selection of Boards. — How the Sledge is used. — 
 Curing Skins.— Importance of Curing Skins properly. — Valuable hints on Skin- 
 ing Animals. — How to dry Skins. — How to dress Skins for Market. — Astringent 
 preparations. — Recipe. — Stretchers. — How skins are stretched. — The Board 
 Stretcher. — How it is made and used. — The Wedge Stretcher. — How made and 
 used. — The Bow Stretcher. — The Hoop Stretcher. — Tanning Skins. — To Tan 
 with the hair on. — Preparation of Skin for Tanning. — Tanning Mixture. — Recipe. 
 — Second Mixture. — Recipe. — Third Mixture and Recipe — How the Skin is soft- 
 ened and finished. — How to Tan Mink and Muskrat Skins. — Preparation 
 of Skin. — Tanning Mixtures. — Various Recipes. — " Fleshing." — The Fleshing- 
 knife.— Substitute for the Fleshing-knife.— How to Tan the Skins of the 
 Beaver, Otter, Raccoon, and Marten.— Tanning Mixtures. — How to soften 
 the Skin.— Simple Tanned Skin.— Recipe for removing the fur. — How to finish 
 the Skin.— Observations on the History of Furs and the Fur Trade. 
 — Some bits of History in connection with Furs. — Ancient use of Furs.— Furs a 
 medium of Exchange. — Furs and Fashion.— Extravagance in Fur Costume — 
 Choice Furs as Badges of Rank.— Their use restricted to Royal Families.— The 
 Early Fur Trade of Europe.— A Tribute paid in Furs.— Early History of the Fur 
 Trade in America.— Origin of the Hudson's Bay Company. — Hostility of the 
 French Canadian Traders.— Establishment of the North West Company.— Com- 
 petition and War.— Consolidation of the tv.'o Companies.— Great sales cf the 
 Hudson's Bay Company.— Importance of the Fur Trade.— Cities founded by the 
 enterprise of the Trapper.— St. Paul.— Montreal and Mackinaw.— Fortunes built 
 up on Fur Traffic— John Jacob Aston— Mink and Muskrat Skins.— Their exten- 
 sive use in America — Estimated value of the annual yield of Raw Furs throughout 
 the World.— Classification of Furs by American Dealers.—" Home " Furs.— 
 " Shipping" Furs.— Table of Sales of Hudson's Bay Company, in 1873.— March 
 Sale.— September Sale.— Price according to Quality.— Estimated average per 
 Skin.— List of American "Shipping" Furs.— List of American "Home" Furs.— 
 Market Value of Fur Skins. — Eccentricities of the Fur Market— Demand 
 governed by Fashion.— How Fashion runs the Fur Trade.— The Amateur Trapper 
 and the Fur Trade.— Difficulty of a profitable disposal of Furs.— Advice to the 
 Novice.- How to realize on the sale of Furs.— Table of Values of American 
 Fur Skins.— a complete list of American Fur bearing Animals. — Various prices 
 of Skins according to Quality.— Uses of American Furs at Home and 
 Abroad.— The Silver Fox.— Fifty Guineas for a Fur Skin.— Red Fox Fur.— 
 
11 CONTENTS. 
 
 Its. use in Oriental Countries. — Beaver Fur. — Its various uses.— Raccoon Skins, a 
 great Staple for Russia and Germany. — Bear Skins and their various uses. — Lynx, 
 Fisher, and Marten Skins.— The Mink. — Use of its hair for Artists pencils. — 
 Muskrat Skins. — Three millions annually exported to Germany alone. — Their ex- 
 tensive use among the American poorer classes. — Otter Fur. — Sleigh Robes from 
 Wolf Skins,— Rabbit Fur. — Its use in the Manufacture of Hats. — Breeding 
 Rabbits for their Fur. — The Wolverine. — Skunk Fur, dignified by the name of 
 Alaska Sable. — Large shipments to Foreign Countries. — How the Fur of thu 
 Badger is used. — Opossum, Puma, and Wild Cat Fur. — Robes for the Fashion- 
 able. — Squirrel and Mole Skins . Pages 255-257. 
 
I / I 
 
 ff-^*^ ^__ _ 
 
 -1,1 1 jf:Jii-!i I ^ ,\ 
 
 FULL PAGES. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 1. Caui^lit at last • FrontispiccG 
 
 2. Traps for Large Game 15 
 
 3. Snares or Noose Traps 37 
 
 4. Traps for Feathered Game iS^ 
 
 5. Miscellaneous Traps loi 
 
 6. Household Traps 123 
 
 7. Steel Traps, and the art of Trapping .... 137 
 
 8. Almost Persuaded. to face 154 
 
 9. The Campaign 223 
 
 10. Trapper's Miscellany 253 
 
XIV ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 11. "Preface" 3 
 
 12. Initial to Preface 3 
 
 13. End piece to Preface 6 
 
 14. " Contents ". . . 7 
 
 15. "Illustrations" 16 
 
 16. Initial to Book 1 17 
 
 17. Dead fall for large Animals. 18 
 
 18. Explanatory drawing of pieces 19 
 
 19. The Gun Trap . 21 
 
 20. The Bow Trap 23 
 
 21. '' " " arrangement of parts 24 
 
 22. " " " Section 25 
 
 23. Foot String Bow Trap 26 
 
 24. The Down fall 27 
 
 25. The Bear Trap 30 
 
 26. End piece to Book 1 36 
 
 27. Initial to Book II 39 
 
 28. Quail Nooses 40 
 
 29. Hedge Nooses ; . . 42 
 
 30. The Triangle Snare 42 
 
 31. The Twitch-up 44 
 
 32. Method of Setting 45 
 
 33. " " " No. 2 46 
 
 34. « " " No. 3 47 
 
 35- " " "N0.4 47 
 
 36. " " "No. 5 48 
 
 37. The Poacher's Snare 49 
 
 38. The Portable Snare 51 
 
 39. The " Simplest" Snare 52 
 
 40. Modification No. 2 53 
 
 41. " " 3 54 
 
 42. The Quail Snare 54 
 
 43. The Box Snare 55 
 
 44. The Double Box Snare 57 
 
 45. The Old fashioned Springle 59 
 
 46. The Improved Springle '. 60 
 
 47. The Figure Four Ground Snare 61 
 
 48. The Platform Snare 62 
 
 49. End piece 62 
 
 50. Initial to Book III 65 
 
 51. The Brick Trap 66 
 
 52. Method of Setting 67 
 
 53. The Coop Trap ' 68 
 
 54. The Bat fowling Net 71 
 
 55. The Clap Net 72 
 
 56. The Bird Whistle 74 
 
 57. The Trap Cage 76 
 
 58. Diagrams of Cage yy 
 
 59. The Sprmg Net Trap Si 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. XV 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 60. Section of Spring Net Trap 82 
 
 61. A Simpler Net Trap 83 
 
 62. The Upright Net Trap 86 
 
 63. Second Methoi " 87 
 
 64. The Box Owl Trap 89 
 
 65. The Box Bird Trap 91 
 
 65. The Pendent Box Bird Trap 92 
 
 67. The Hawk Trap 93 
 
 68. The Wild Duck Net 94 
 
 69. The Hook Trap 95 
 
 70. The Fool's Cap Trap 96 
 
 71. The Limed Twig 97 
 
 72. Humming-bird Trap 99 
 
 73. Initial to Book IV 103 
 
 74. The Common Box Trap 104 
 
 75. Two Modes of Setting 105 
 
 76. Boy Trap 106 
 
 Tj. The Figure Four Trap 107 
 
 78. Parts of " 10^ 
 
 79. The " Double Ender " 109 
 
 So. The Self-Setting Trap no 
 
 81. The Dead fall 1 1 1 
 
 82. Method No. 2 114 
 
 ^-i^. The Garotte 115 
 
 84. Arrangement of " Setting " 117 
 
 85. The Bow Garotte Trap 116 
 
 86. A Fish Trap 120 
 
 87. End Piece " Maternal advice " 121 
 
 fi%. Initial to Book V 125 
 
 89. The Barrel Trap ^ 126 
 
 90. The Box Dead Fall 129 
 
 91. The Board Flap 130 
 
 92. The Box Pit-fall 132 
 
 93. Diagram of " 133 
 
 94. Cage Trap 134 
 
 95. Initial to Book VI 139 
 
 96. Steel Trap. No. (o) or Rat Trap 140 
 
 97. Steel Trap. No. i, or Muskrat Trap 141 
 
 98. " " No. 2, or Mink Trap 141 
 
 99. " " No. 2>^ , or Fox Trap 141 
 
 100. " " No. 3, or Otter Trap 141 
 
 loi. " " No. 4, or Beaver Trap 141 
 
 102. " The Great Bear Tamer," Steel Trap 142 
 
 103. Steel Trap No. 5, or Small Bear Trap 143 
 
 \->\. Steel Trap set in pen 143 
 
 10 V The Spring Pole 145 
 
 io5. The Sliding pole 146 
 
 107. The Grappling Iron 147 
 
 108. The Wolf 159 
 
 109. The Puma 162 
 
 no. The Canada Lynx 165 
 
xvi ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 111. The Wild C .t 167 
 
 112. The Bear 170 
 
 113. The Raccoon 174 
 
 114. The Badger 176 
 
 115. The Beaver 178 
 
 116. The Otter 186 
 
 117. The Mink 190 
 
 li8. The Marten 192 
 
 J 19. The Skunk 196 
 
 120. The Wolverine 199 
 
 121. The Opossum 201 
 
 122. The Squirrel 212 
 
 123. The Moose 219 
 
 124. Initial to Book Vll 225 
 
 125. Portable Drinking Cup 231 
 
 126. The Home Shanty. 243 
 
 127. The Shelter tent 247 
 
 128. The Trapper's Bed 248 
 
 129. End Piece 251 
 
 130. Initial to Book VIII 255 
 
 131. Head Net ^57 
 
 132. Portable Hat-brim ^5^ 
 
 133. Hat-brim with netting attachment ^^^ 
 
 1 34. The Dug-out or Log Canoe •. ^59 
 
 13;. The Birch-Bark Canoe ^^^ 
 
 136. A Light Home-made Boat A 
 
 137. Diagram view of Boat . 
 
 138. The Snow Shoe "^9 
 
 139. The Toboggan or Indian Sledge ^7 
 
 140. The Board Stretcher . ^73 
 
 141. The Wedge Stretcher • ^74 
 
 142. The Bow Stretcher ^75 
 
 143. " The End " 257 
 
y % M^n. 
 
 ^■C\ /^> \(i^ 
 
BOOK I. 
 
 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 OWEVER free our forests may be 
 from the lurking dangers of a tropical 
 i|||||BHWHa|wrai|^^^ jungle, they nevertheless shelter a few 
 fiUBB B^HHil^S ^ large and formidable beasts -which are 
 legitimate and deserving subjects of the 
 Trapper's Art. Chief among them are 
 the Puma, or Cougar, Bear, Lynx, Wolf 
 and Wolverine. 
 
 Although commonly taken in steel 
 traps, as described respectively in a 
 later portion of this work, these animals are nevertheless often 
 captured by Deadfalls and other devices, which are well koown 
 to the professional Trapper, and which serve excellently in 
 cases of emergency, or in the scarcity of steel traps. 
 
 l-HE DEAD-FALL. 
 
 There are several varieties of this trap, some of which are 
 described in other parts of this volume. In general construc- 
 tion they all bear a similarity, the methods of setting being 
 slightly changed to suit the various game desired for capture. 
 For large animals, and particularly the Bear, the trap is sprung 
 by the pressure of the animal's foot, while reaching for the 
 bait. Select some favorite haunt of the Bear, and proceed to 
 construct a pen of large stakes. These should consist of 
 young trees, or straight branches, about three inches in diame- 
 ter, and should be of such a length as to reach a height of four 
 or five feet when set in the ground, this being the required 
 height of the pen. Its width should be about two and a half 
 or three feet ; its depth, four feet ; and the top should be roofed 
 over with cross pieces of timber, to prevent the bait from be- 
 
i8 
 
 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 ing taken from above. A straight log, about eight inches in 
 diameter, and six feet in length should now be rolled against 
 the opening of the pen, and hemmed in by two upright posts, 
 one on each side, directly on a line with the sides of the enclo- 
 sure. Another log, or tree trunk, of the same diameter, and 
 about fifteen or twenty feet in length, should next be procured. 
 Having this in readiness, we will now proceed to the construc- 
 tion of the other pieces. In order to understand the ar- 
 rangement of these, we present a separate drawing of the parts 
 
 M^/b. ^ 
 
 -Q^ 
 
 
 as they appear when the trap is set. (a), An upright post, is sup- 
 plied at the upper end with a notch, having its flat face on the 
 lower side. This post should be driven into the ground in the 
 left hand back corner of the pen, and should be three feet cr 
 more in height. Another post (d) of similar dimensions, is 
 provided with a notch at its upper end, the notch being re- 
 versed, /. e.j having its flat side tippermost. This post should 
 be set in the ground, outside of the pen, on the right hand side 
 and on a line with the first. A third post {c\ is provided with a 
 crotch on its upper end. This should be planted outside of the 
 pen on the right hand side, and on a line with the front. The 
 treadle piece consists of a forked branch, about three feet 
 
THE DEAD-FALL. 
 
 19 
 
 in length, supplied with a square board secured across its ends. 
 At the junction of the forks, an augur hole is bored, into which 
 a stiff stick about three feet in length is inserted. This is 
 shown at (//). Two poles, {d) and (^), should next be procured, 
 each about four feet in length. These complete the number of 
 pieces, and the trap may then be set. Pass the pole {d) between 
 the stakes of the pen, laying one 
 end in the notch in the post (<?), 
 and holding the other beneath the 
 notch in the upright {b). The sec- 
 ond pole {e) should then be ad- 
 justed, one end being placed in 
 the crotch post (<:), and the other 
 caught beneath the projecting end 
 of the pole (<^), as is fully illustra-^^^ 
 
 f, 
 
 ted \n the engraving. The dead- 
 log should then be rested on the 
 front extremity of the pole last ad- 
 justed, thus effecting an equilib- 
 rium. 
 
 The treadle-piece should now be placed in position over a 
 short stick of wood {/), with its platform raised in front, and the 
 upright stick at the back secured beneath the edge of the latch 
 pole {d). 
 
 The best bait consists of honey, for which Bears have a re- 
 markable fondness. It may be placed on the ground at the 
 back part of the enclosure, or smeared on a piece of meat hung 
 at the end of the pen. The dead-log should now be weighted 
 by resting heavy timbers against its elevated end, as seen in 
 the main drawing, after which the machine is ready for its 
 deadly work. 
 
 A Bear will never hesitate to risk his hfe where a feast of 
 honey is in view, and the odd arrangement of tuTjbers has no 
 fears for him after that tempting bait has once been discovered. 
 Passing beneath the suspended log, his heavy paw encounters 
 the broad board on the treadle-piece, which immediately sinks 
 with his weight. The upright pole at the back of the treadle is 
 thus raised, forcing the latch-piece from the notch : this in turn 
 sets free the side pole, and the heavy log is released, falling 
 with a crushing weight over the back of hapless Bruin. 
 
 There are many other methods of setting the Dead-fall, sev- 
 eral of which appear in another section of this book. The 
 above is the one more commonly used for the capture of Bears, 
 
20 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 but the others are equally applicable and effective when en- 
 larged to the proper size. 
 
 In South America and other countries, where Lions, Tigers, 
 Leopards, and Jaguars abound, these and other rude extempore 
 traps are almost the only ones used, and are always very suc- 
 cessful. The pit-fall often allures the Bengal Tiger to his de- 
 struction, and the Leopard often terminates his career at the 
 muzzle of a rifle baited as seen in our page illustration. A gun 
 thus arranged forms a most sure and deadly trap, and one which 
 may be easily extemporized at a few moments' warning, in cases 
 of emergency. The Puma of our northern forests, although 
 by no means so terrible a foe as the Leopard, is still a blood- 
 thirsty creature, and while he shuns the gaze of man with the 
 utmost fear, he is nevertheless constantly on the alert to spring 
 upon him unawares, either in an unguarded moment or during 
 sleep. A hungry Puma, who excites suspicion by his stealthy 
 prowling and ominous growl, may easily be led to his destruction 
 at the muzzle of a gun, baited as we shall now describe. 
 
 THE GUN TRAP. 
 
 After a Puma has succeeded in capturing his prey, and has 
 satisfied his appetite by devouring a portion of its carcass, he 
 leaves the remainder for a second meal, and his early return to 
 a second banquet is almost a matter of certainty. Where such 
 a remnant of a bygone feast is found, the capture of the Cou- 
 gar is an easy matter. Any carcass left in a neighborhood 
 where Pumas are known to exist is sure to attract them, and 
 day after day its bulk will be found to decrease until the bones 
 only remain. By thus " baiting " a certain place and drawing 
 the Pumas thither, the way is paved for their most certain de- 
 struction. The gun-trap is very simply constructed, and may 
 be put in working order in a very few moments. The weapon 
 may be a rifle or shot-gun. In the latter case it should be heav- 
 ily loaded with buck-shot. The stock should be first firmly tied 
 to some tree, or secured in a stout crotch driven into the 
 ground, the barrel being similarly supported. 
 
 The gun should be about three feet from the ground, and 
 should be aimed at some near tree to avoid possible accident to 
 a chance passer-by within its range. The gun should then be 
 cocked, but 7iot capped^ due caution being always used, and the 
 cap adjusted the very last thing after the trap is baited and 
 
THE GUN TRAP. 
 
 21 
 
 set. Where a rifle is used, the cartridge should not be insert- 
 ed until the last thing. 
 
 It is next necessary to cut a small sapling about a foot or two 
 in length. Its diameter should allow it to fit snugly inside the 
 guard in front of the trigger, without springing the hammer. 
 Its other end should now be supported by a very slight crotch, 
 as shown in our illustration. Another sapHng should next be 
 procured, its length being sufficient to reach from the muzzle of 
 the gun to the end of the first stick, and having a branch stub 
 or hook on one end. The other extremity should be attached 
 by a string to the tip of the first stick. 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 Now take a portion of the carcass and draw it firmly over the 
 hook in the long stick. Prop the latter in such a position as 
 that the bait shall hang directly in front of the muzzle. The 
 crotch supporting the bait stick should be firmly implanted in 
 the ground in order to hold the bait from being drawn to either 
 side of the muzzle. 
 
 The gun-trap is now set, and its merits may be tested. Be- 
 fore adjusting the cap the pieces should be tried several times 
 to insure their perfect working. A slight pull on the bait from 
 the front will draw the short stick forward. This immediately 
 
22 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 acts on the trigger and causes the hammer to snap. By a few 
 trials, the sticks can be arranged so as to spring the trigger 
 easily, and where a hair trigger is used, a mere touch on the 
 bait will suffice to discharge the gun. When all is found to 
 work perfectly, the trap should be surrounded by a rude pen of 
 sticks and branches, extending two or three feet beyond the 
 muzzle, in order to insure an approach directly in the aim of the 
 gun. The cap should now be placed on the nipple, after which 
 the deadly device may be left to do its certain work. The re- 
 maining portion of the carcass should be removed, and w^here 
 the locality is likely to be frequented by other hunters or trap- 
 pers, it is well to put up a '' danger " signal to guard against ac- 
 cident. If desired two or three guns may be arranged like the 
 spokes of a wheel, all aiming near the bait. Even with one 
 gun the victim stands but little chance, but where two or three 
 pour their contents into his body, his death is an absolute cer- 
 tainty. 
 
 I^y fastening the gun three feet above ground the load is dis- 
 charged upward into the mouth of its victim, and thus directly 
 through the brain. Where two or more guns are used, it is ad- 
 visable to aim at least one in such a direction as will send its 
 charge into the breast of the animal. 
 
 The Indian Panther is very commonly taken by the gun trap, 
 and even Lions are sometimes secured by the same device, only 
 increased in power by a larger number of guns. 
 
 There are several other methods of setting the gun trap. One 
 way consists in attaching a string to the finger piece of the trigger, 
 passing it back through a small staple or screw eye inserted in 
 the under side of the stock for that purpose, and then drawing 
 the string forward and attaching it to the top of the bait stick. 
 This latter is stuck in the ground directly in front of the muzzle and 
 the bait secured to its extremity. When the temi^ting morsel is 
 grasped, the bait stick is drawn forward and the string pulled, 
 the result of course being the discharge of the gun. By still 
 another method, an elastic is passed through the screw eye in 
 the stock and over the finger piece of the trigger, thus tending 
 continually to draw it back and spring the hammer. To set the 
 gun a short stick is inserted beiiind the finger piece, thus over- 
 coming the power of the elastic. It should be very delicately 
 adjusted, so that a mere touch will dislodge it Its length 
 should be about six inches, and to its other end the bait stick 
 should be attached and arranged as first described. Although 
 a rather dangerous trap to be set at random it is nevertheless 
 
THE BOW TRAP. 
 
 23 
 
 often utilized and has brought many a dreaded marauder to his 
 doom. 
 
 The bear, lynx, and other large animals arc sometimes taken 
 Ijy the gun trap, but it is most generally set for the Puma. 
 
 THE BOW TRAP. 
 
 This device does duty in India and Southern Asia, where it is 
 known as the tiger trap. 
 
 
 It is easily constructed as follows : First cut a stout board five 
 inches in width, two and a half feet in length and about two 
 inches in thickness. Shave off one end to a point so that it may 
 be driven into the ground. At the other extremity, in the mid- 
 die of the board and about two inches from the edge, a hole one 
 half an inch in diameter and three quarters of an inch in height, 
 should be made ; two auger holes, one directly above the other, 
 with the sides flatly trimmed, will answer perfectly. The arrow 
 should next be constructed. This should be made of seasoned oak 
 or ash, two feet in length, perfectly straight, smooth and round, 
 
 3 
 
24 
 
 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 and one third of an inch in diameter. One end should be 
 notched for the bow string and vaned with thin feathers after the 
 manner of ordinary arrows. The other extremity should be armed 
 with a steel barb sharply pointed, and firmly riveted in place. Any 
 blacksmith can forge such a tip ; the shaj^^e of which is plainly 
 seen in our engraving. The bow should consist of a piece of 
 stout seasoned hickory, oak or ash four feet long, if such a bow 
 is not at hand, a stout sapling may be used. The bow string 
 may consist of cat-gut, or stout Indian twine. 
 
 Before setting the trap, it is advisable to attract the game to 
 the spot selected as already alluded to in connection with the 
 gun trap, and particularly so when the Puma is the victim sought. 
 In our illustration we see the trap as it appears when set, and 
 the same precaution, of aiming at some tree should be exercised 
 as advised with the gun trap. The bow should first be secured 
 in place directly beneath and one eighth of an inch from the edge 
 of the hole in the board, as seen at(^). Two large wire staples may 
 
 be used for this pur- 
 pose, being passed 
 over the bow through 
 holes in the board 
 and clinched on the 
 opposite side. The 
 bend of the bow and 
 length of string 
 should now be de- 
 termined, one end 
 of the latter being 
 attached to the tip 
 of the bow and the 
 ether end supplied with a loop. The board should then be driven 
 into the ground to the depth of about eight inches. We will 
 next take up the arrow. Pass the barb through the hole in the 
 board and adjust the notch over the bow-string, draw the arrow 
 back and release the string. If the arrow slide easily and 
 swiftly, through the board, keeping true to its aim, the contri- 
 vance is in perfect working order and is ready to be set. ^ This 
 is accomplished by the very simple and ingenious mechanical ar- 
 rangement, shown at (b). On the under side of the arrow just 
 behind the barb, a flat notch one eighth of an inch in depth and 
 two and a half inches in length is cut, with rounded ends, as 
 seen in the illustration. The bait stick should consist of a sap- 
 ling about three feet in length, the large end being trimmed so 
 
THE BOW TRAP. 25 
 
 as to fit in the hole over the arrow while the notch in the latter 
 rests in the bottom of the aperture as seen in the illustration {b). 
 
 The trap may then 
 beset. Drawback 
 the arrow, until the 
 notch rests in the 
 hole in the board. 
 Insert the bait 
 stick ve7y lightly 
 above the arrow 
 as shown at {b\ 
 propping it in place 
 at the angle seen 
 in the main drawing. The bait for a puma should consist 
 of a portion of some carcass, or if for other animals, any 
 of the baits given in our section, on " trapping " may be used. In 
 order to secure the bait firmly to the bait stick, a small hole and 
 a peg at the side of the baited end will effectually prevent its 
 removal and the trap will thus most surely be sprung. The 
 prop which sustains the bait stick need be only a small crotch 
 inserted a little to one side of the trap. The bow should now 
 be surrounded by a wide pen, allowing room for the spring of 
 the ends. The top of the enclosure should also be guarded by 
 a few sticks or branches laid across. Directly in front of the trap 
 and extending from it, a double row of rough stakes three feet 
 high should be constructed, thus insuring an approach in the 
 direct range of the arrow. Without this precaution the bait might 
 be approached from the side, and the arrow pass beneath the 
 head of the animal, whereas on the other hand it is sure to take 
 effect in the neck or breast of its victim. Of course the success of 
 this trap depends entirely upon the strength of the bow. When 
 a large and powerful one is used its effect is almost surely 
 fatal. 
 
 Another form of the bow trap, much used in the capture 
 of the tiger, forms the subject of our next illustration ; no bait 
 is here used. The trap is set at the side of the beaten path of 
 the tiger and is sprung by the animal pressing against a string 
 in passing. Tlie bow is large and powerful and is secured to 
 two uprio^ht posts about eight inches apart. The string is drawn 
 back and a blunt stick is then inserted between the bow string 
 and the inside centre of the bow, thus holding the latter in a bent 
 position. A stout stick, with a flattened end is next inserted 
 between the end of the blunt stick and the inside of the bow, the 
 
26 
 
 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 remaining part of the stick extending downwards, as cur illus- 
 tration shows. To the lower end of this stick a string is attached 
 and carried across the path in the direct range of the arrow, 
 being secured to a stake on the opposite side. The arrow is 
 generally barbed with a steel or flint point, and wound with thread 
 saturated with a deadly poison. This is now rested on the top 
 of the bow between the upright parts, and its notch caught in 
 the bow-string. Everything is then in readiness. The tiger 
 soon steals along his beaten track. He comes nearer and 
 nearer the trap until at last his breast presses the string. Twang, 
 goes the bow and the arrow is imbedded in the flesh of its victim. 
 He writhes for a few moments, until he is released from his 
 torments by the certain death which follows the course of the 
 poison through his veins. 
 
 The use of the poison is very dangerous : a mere scratch 
 through the skin is likely to prove fatal, and the trapper is 
 thus likely to prove his own victim. Poisoned arrows are little 
 used by trappers; and the bow trap, when properly con- 
 structed, is sufficiently effective without the venom. 
 
 THE DOWN-FALL. 
 
 This is the famous harpoon trap, so commonly used in Africa 
 for the capture of the hippopotamus. There is no reason why 
 
THE DOWN- FALL. 
 
 ?7 
 
 it may not be successfully employed in 
 our own country for taking large game, or 
 modified on a reduced scale for smaller 
 animals. 
 
 The hippopotamus makes his daily 
 rounds in regular beaten pathways ; and 
 the trapper, knowing this peculiarity, 
 turns it to advantage. This is a common 
 habit with many animals ; and these " run- 
 ways " are easily detected by the matted 
 leaves and grass and the broken twigs. 
 Over such a beaten track the harpoon-trap is suspended. 
 
 The harpoon used by the native African trappers somewhat 
 resembles a double-barbed arrowhead, and has a reflexed prong 
 on the shaft just behind the barbs, — a sort of combination be- 
 tween a spear and a fish-hook. It is a terrible weapon ; and, 
 when once launched into the flesh of its victim, its withdrawal 
 is impossible, on account of the reflexed barb. Any sharp steel 
 shaft will answer the purpose of the harpoon ; it should be 
 eight or ten inches in length, and filed to a keen point. We 
 will now construct the trap. The first requisite is a straight 
 section of the branch of some tree. This should be about four 
 inches in diameter, and four feet in length. Into one end of 
 this beam the harpoon should be firmly imbedded, allowing the 
 point to project about six inches. This beam should then be 
 
2S TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 weighted with two large stones, attached firmly by a rope, 
 about eighteen inches above the harpoon. At about six 
 inches from the other end of the log a notch should be cut, 
 having its flat side uppermost, as shown plainly in our illustra- 
 tion. The implement is now ready. 
 
 Select some favorably situated tree, whose branches ex- 
 tend over the pathway chosen for the trap. By the aid of a 
 rope secured to the log, and thrown over the limb, the weighted 
 beara may be drawn up into the tree. While thus held by a 
 person below, the trapper should climb the tree to complete 
 operations. For this purpose, a smaller branch about three 
 feet in length should be cut. One end should be flattened off 
 on both sides, so as to fit in the notch in the beam ; and the 
 part which rests on the limb, as seen in the illustration, should 
 also be flattened to prevent turning. A piece of stout Indian 
 twine should next be fastened to the unwhittled end of the 
 stick, which may then be adjusted in the notch of the har- 
 poon beam, as seen in the engraving. The string may then be 
 thrown down, and grasped by the companion below, who holds 
 it firmly, after which the original rope may be removed. It 
 will be noticed that the weight of the harpoon and accomj^ani- 
 ments rests on the short arm of the lever which passes over the 
 limb of the tree, and the tension on the string from the long arm 
 is thus very slight. This precaution is necessary for the per- 
 fect working of the trap. To complete the contrivance, a 
 small peg with a rounded notch should be cut, and driven into 
 the ground directly plumb beneath the long end of the lever. 
 It should be inserted into the earth only sufficiently to hold the 
 string without pulling out, and the side of the notch should face 
 the path ; its height should be about a foot. Into the notch 
 the string should be passed, being afterwards drawn across the 
 path and secured on the opposite side at the sam.e height. 
 The trap is now set ; and woe to the unlucky quadruped that 
 dares make too free with that string ! A very slight pressure 
 from either side is equally liable to slip the string from the notch, 
 or loosen the peg from the ground ; and the result is the same 
 in either case, — down comes the weighted harpoon, carrying 
 death and destruction to its victim. 
 
 For large animals, this mode of setting will be found to work 
 perfectly. When constructed on a smaller scale, it may be 
 slightly modified. It will be noticed that, when the string is 
 approached from one side, it is merely slipped out of the notch, — 
 a slight pressure being sufficient to dislodge it, — while the pres- 
 
THE BEAR TRAP. 
 
 29 
 
 sure from the opposite direction must be stronor cnousjh to lift the 
 peg out of the ground bodily. This is easily done v/hen tlie peg 
 is lightly inserted ; but, to insure success, even with light pres- 
 sure from either side, an additional precaution may be used, if 
 desired. Instead of fastening the end of the string securely to 
 some object on the further side of the path, it is well to provide 
 the end of the cord with a ring or loop, which should be passed 
 over a nail or short peg driven in some tree or branch, or fas- 
 tened into an upright stake, firmly embedded into the ground. 
 The nail should point in the opposite direction from the notch 
 in the peg, and its angle should incline slightly toward the 
 path. It will thus be seen that an approach from one side 
 forces the string from the notch in the peg, while an opposite 
 pressure slides the ring from the nail. 
 
 This mode of setting is especially desirable for small ani- 
 mals, on account of its being more sensitive. 
 
 Such a trap may be successfully used for the puma, bear, and 
 the lynx. When constructed for smaller animals, the harpoon 
 may be dispensed with, a large stone being equally effective in 
 its death-dealing qualities 
 
 THE BEAR TRAP. 
 
 This trap is constructed after the idea of the old-fashioned 
 box or rabbit trap, and has been the means of securing many a 
 hungry bear, or even puma, whose voracity has exceeded its 
 cunning. The lynx and wild-cat are also among its occasional 
 victims ; and inasmuch as its prisoners are taken alive great 
 sport is often realized before the captive is brought under 
 control. 
 
 Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the affair. The 
 sides are built of stout young tree-trunks, cut into sections and 
 firmly driven into the ground close together. For a large animal, — 
 a bear, for instance, — the enclosure should be about seven feet 
 deep, two and a half feet wide, and four feet high. The top 
 should be built in with the sides, after the manner of the log 
 cabin, described in page (244.) The two posts at the entrance 
 should be first set up. On the back side of each, near the end, 
 a deep notch should be cut for the reception of the cross piece 
 at the top. This should likewise be notched in a similar manner 
 on both sides of each end, so as to fit singly into the notches in 
 the uprights on the one side, and into the second pair of uprights 
 
30 
 
 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 on the other. These latter shomd next be inserted lirmly into 
 the ground, having been previously notched on both sides of 
 their upper ends, as described for the cross piece. They may 
 either be fixed in place and the cross piece sprung in between 
 them at the top, or the latter may be held in the notches of the 
 first pair, while the second are being inserted. Continue thus 
 until the full length of the sides are reached, when the end may 
 be closed by an upright wall of plain logs, either hammered into 
 the ground, after the manner of the sides, or arranged one above 
 another in notches between the two end uprights. The sliding 
 door is next required. This should be large enough to cover the 
 
 opening, and should be made of stout board slabs, firmly secured 
 by cross pieces. It should be made to slide smoothly into 
 grooves cut into perpendicular logs situated on each side of 
 the opening, or may be arranged to slip easily between the 
 flattened side of one log on each side and the front of the pen. 
 Either way works well. In the latter an additional upright or 
 short board should be inserted in the ground at the edges of 
 the sliding door, to prevent the latter from being forced to either 
 side by the efforts of the enclosed captive. 
 
 There are two or three ways of setting the trap, depending 
 upon the desired game. For a bear it is arranged as in our 
 illustration. An upright post, two feet in length, should be cut 
 
THE PIT-FALL. 3I 
 
 to an edge at one end, and wedged in between the logs at the 
 top of the trap, near the middle. Across the top of this, a pole 
 seven feet in length, should be rested ; one end being attached 
 by a loop, or secured in a notch in the sliding door, and the 
 other supplied with a strong string about four feet in length, 
 with a stick eight inches in length secured to its end. Through 
 the centre log, in the back of the pen, and about two feet from 
 the ground, an auger hole should be made. The bait stick with 
 bait attached should be inserted through this hole from the in- 
 side, and the spindle caught on the outside beween its projecting 
 end and a nail driven in the adjoining upright. This principle is 
 clearly illustrated on page 105 at(^), and, if desired, the method 
 (J?) may be used also. For a bear, the bait should consist of a 
 piece of meat scented with burnt honey-comb. The odor of 
 honey will tempt a bear into almost any trap, and even into such 
 close quarters as the above he will enter without the slightest 
 suspicion, when a feast of honey is in view. 
 
 For the cougar, or puma, the best bait is a live lamb or a 
 young pig, encaged in a small pen erected at the end of the trap. 
 A fowl is also excellent. When thus baited, the setting of the 
 trap is varied. The upright post at the top of the trap is in- 
 serted nearer the front, and the cross pole is stouter. The 
 auger hole is bored in the top of the trap, through the centre 
 of one of the logs, and about twenty inches from the back end 
 of the trap. The spindle is dispensed with and the end of the 
 string is provided with a large knot, which is lowered through 
 the auger hole, and is prevented from slipping back by the 
 insertion of a stick beneath. This stick should be about three 
 feet in length, and of such a size at the end as will snugly fit 
 into the auger hole. It should be inserted delicately, merely 
 enough to hold the knot from slipping back, and so as to be 
 easily released by a slight movement in any direction. 
 
 This mode of setting is more fully detailed on page 52. As 
 the puma steals in upon his prey he dislodges the stick, the lid 
 falls, and he finds himself imprisoned with his intended victim. 
 This trap is much used in India and Asia for the capture of the 
 tiger, and the jaguar of South America is frequently entrapped 
 by the same devices. 
 
 THE PIT-FALL. 
 
 The tiger is the scourge of India and Southern Asia, and 
 some sections of these countries are so terribly infested with 
 
32 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 the brutes that the inhabitants arc kept in a continual state of 
 terror by their depredations. Many methods are adopted by 
 the natives for the destruction of the terrible creatures, some 
 of which have already been described. The pit-fall is still an- 
 other device by which this lurking marauder is often captured 
 and destroyed. It sometimes consists of a mere pit covered 
 and baited in the haunts of the tiger, or is constructed in a con- 
 tinuous deep ditch surrounding the habitations of the natives, 
 and thus acting as a secure protection. The pit is about twelve 
 feet deep and ten feet in width, and its outside edge is lined 
 with a hedge five or six feet in height. As the fierce brute 
 steals upon his intended prey, he nears the hedge and atone 
 spring its highest branch is cleared. He reaches the earth only 
 to find himself at the bottom of a deep pit, from which there is 
 no hope of escape, and where he speedily becomes the merciless 
 victim of a shower of deadly arrows and bullets. 
 
 Happily we have no tigers in the United States, but the 
 puma and the lynx are both fit subjects for the pit-fall. These 
 animals cannot be said to exist in such numbers as to become 
 a scourge and a stranger to the inhabitants of any neighbor- 
 hood, and for this reason the " Moat " arrangement of the 
 pit-fall is not required. The simple pit is often used, and when 
 properly constructed and baited is a very sicre trap. The hole 
 should be about twelve feet in depth and eight feet across, 
 widening at the bottom. Its opening should be covered with 
 sticks, earth and leaves, so arranged as to resemble the sur- 
 roundings as much as possible, but so lightly adjusted as that 
 they will easily give way at a slight pressure. One edge of the 
 opening should now be closely built up with stakes firmly in- 
 serted into the ground, and so constructed as to form a small 
 pen in the middle, in which to secure the bait, generally a live 
 turkey, goose, or other fowl. The other three sides should also 
 be hedged in by a single row of upright stakes three or four 
 feet in height, and a few inches apart in order that the hungry 
 puma may whet his appetite by ghmpses between them. 
 
 They should be firmly imbedded in the earth directly at the 
 edge of the pit, and as far as possible trimmed of their branches 
 on the inside. There will thus be a small patch of solid ground 
 for the feet of the fowl, which should be tied by the \^g in the 
 enclosure. Our trap is now set, and if there is a puma in the 
 neighborhood he will be sure to pay it a call and probably a 
 visit. 
 
 Spying his game, he uses every effort to reach it through the 
 
THE LOJ COOP TRAP. 
 
 33 
 
 crevices between the stakes. The cries of the frightened fowl 
 arouse and stimulate his appetite, and at last exasperated by 
 his futile efforts to seize his victim, he springs over the fence of 
 stakes and is lodged in the depths of the pit. 
 
 The puma is very agile of movement, and unless the pit is at 
 least twelve feet in depth there is danger of his springing out. 
 Any projecting branch on the inside of the stakes affords a 
 grasp for his ready paw, and any such branch, if within the 
 reach of his leap, is sure to effect his escape. For this reason 
 it is advisable to trim smoothly all the projections and leave no 
 stub or knot hole by which he could gain the slightest hold. 
 The construction of a pit-fall is a rather difficult operation on 
 account of the digging which it necessitates. On this account 
 it is not so much used as many other traps which are not only 
 equally effective but much more easily constructed. The fol- 
 lowing is an example : — 
 
 THE LOG COOP TRAP. 
 
 This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma 
 becomes its frequent tenant. As its nameimplies it consists of 
 a coop of logs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap 
 described on page 67. The logs should be about eight feet 
 in length, notched at the ends as described for the Log 
 Cabin, page (244). Lay two of the logs parallel about seven 
 feet apart. Across their ends in the notches, lay two others 
 and continue building up in " cob-house " fashion until the 
 height of about six feet is reached. The corners may be se- 
 cured as they are laid by spikes, or they may be united after- 
 ward in mass by a rope firmly twisted about them from top to 
 bottom. Logs should now be laid across the top of the coop 
 and firmly secured by the spikes or rope knots. There are 
 several ways of setting the trap. A modification of that describ- 
 ed on page 6"j works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and 
 bait stick, as in the Box Trap, page 105, may also be employ- 
 ed. In the latter case, the bait stick is either inserted between 
 the logs at the back of the coop, or a hole is bored through one 
 of them for this purpose. For this mode of setting, the coop 
 should be constructed beneath some tree. It is set by means of 
 a rope attached to the upper edge of one of its sides, the rope 
 being thrown over a limb of the tree and the loose end brought 
 down and secured to the bait stick by a spindle, as described 
 
34 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 for the trap on page (195). The hmb here acts in place of the 
 tall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising the coop up to 
 such an angle as that it will be nearly poised, the setting may 
 be made so delicate that a mere touch on the bait stick from 
 the interior will dislodge the pieces and let fall the enclosure. 
 The simplest vaodo. of setting the trap is that embodied in the 
 "• snare " method on page (52). The rope is here provided 
 with a knot, which must pass easily between the logs, or 
 through the hole at the back of the coop, the length of rope 
 being so arranged as that the coop shall be sufficiently raised 
 where the knot projects into the interior. The introduction of 
 the bait stick beneath the knot will thus prevent the latter from 
 being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. The bait stick in 
 any case should be about two feet in length ; and with this 
 leverage but a shght touch will be required to sj)ring the pieces. 
 In the latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary. A 
 stout crotched stake driven into the ground about twenty feet, 
 at the back of the coop, will answer every purpose, and the coop 
 may be constructed wherever desired. This is a most excellent 
 trap for large animals. It secures the game alive, and is thus 
 often productive of most exciting sport. For the bear, the 
 bait should consist of honey or raw meat. Full directions for 
 baiting all kinds of American game are given under their respec- 
 tive heads in another part of this book. The Coop Trap may 
 be constructed of any dimensions, from the small example on 
 page (67) to the size above described. 
 
 There are several other inventions commonly used for the 
 capture of large animals in various parts of the globe, which 
 would be of little avail in this country. Such is the African 
 Corrall, or Hopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and 
 buffalo are often destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges 
 in the form of the letter V, which are very high and thick at 
 the angle. Instead of the hedges being joined at this point, 
 they are made to form a lane about two hundred feet in length, 
 at the extremity of v/hich a giant pit is formed. Trunks of 
 trees are laid across the margins to prevent the animals from 
 escaping. The opening of this pit is then covered with light 
 reeds and small green boughs. The hedges often extend miles 
 in length and are equally as far apart at these extremities. The 
 tribe of hunters make a circle, three or four miles around the 
 country adjacent to the opening, and gradually closing up are 
 almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which, by shouts 
 and skilfully hurled javelins, they drive into the narrowing walls 
 
THE NET TRAP. 35 
 
 of the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gate 
 presented at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge 
 pell-mell into the pit, which is soon filled with a living mass. 
 Some escape by running over the others ; and the natives, wild 
 with excitement, spear the poor animals with mad delight, 
 while others of the brutes are smothered and crushed by the 
 weight of their dead and dying companions. It is a most cruel 
 and inhuman device, and its effects are sometimes appalling. 
 
 THE NET TRAP. 
 
 The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, v/hich is secured 
 to a frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When 
 the latter is touched the net falls, and the victim becomes en- 
 tangled in the meshes and is securely caught. So far as we 
 know, this mode of capture is never tried in this country. For 
 the puma, lynx and wild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. 
 The net should be of stout cord, and should be secured to a 
 heavy square frame work, tilted as in the coop trap, already de- 
 scribed. There should be plenty of slack in the net, and the 
 looseness should be drawn flat over the framework in folds. 
 The contrivance may be set by a large figure four trap, page 
 (107), or the device described under the coojd trap, page (jSy). 
 
 The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, cer- 
 tainly seems odd ; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of 
 taking the animal, in the countries where this marauder 
 abounds. The viscid, tenacious preparation known as bird lime 
 is described on page (97) and is familiar to most of our readers. 
 For the capture of birds it is unfailing, when once their delicate 
 plumage comes in contact with it. Its effect on the tiger is 
 surprising, and many a hunter has secured his striped foe by 
 its aid. For this purpose, the cans of the preparation are 
 arranged on elevated boards around a bed of leaves, in which 
 the bait is placed. A small platform is so placed that the tiger 
 shall step upon it in reaching for the bait, v/hich, by the aid of 
 strings, tilts the boards and tips off the cans. The lime spills 
 on its victim and over the bed of leaves, and the tiger, in his 
 endeavors to free himself from the sticky substance only suc- 
 ■ ceeds in spreading it, and as he rolls and tumbles on the ground 
 he soon becomes completely smeared and covered with the dry 
 leaves, from which it is impossible for him to extricate himself. 
 
 In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes 
 
36 
 
 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 
 
 an easy prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the 
 fray. 
 
 Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and 
 are made in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These 
 are described under the proper head, in another portion of this 
 work ; and the various baits and modes of setting required for 
 the different animals, are clearly set forth under their respective 
 titles of the latter, in the section "Art of Trapping.'* 
 

BOOK II. 
 
 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 HESE devices, although properly coming 
 under the head of "traps," differ from 
 them in the sense in which they are gener- 
 ally understood. A snare naturally im- 
 plies an entangle7nent ; and for this reason 
 the term is applied to those contrivances 
 which secure their victims by the aid of 
 strings or nooses. Inventions of this 
 kind are among the most useful and suc- 
 cessful to the professional Trapper, and their varieties are 
 numerous. The " Twitch-up " will be recognized as a familiar 
 example by many of our country readers, who may have seen 
 it during their rambles, cautiously set in the low underbrush, 
 awaiting its prey, or perhaps holding aloft its misguided victim. 
 Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the 
 trap kind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They 
 possess one advantage over all other traps ; they can be made 
 in the woods, and out of the commonest material. ' 
 
 Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp 
 hatchet, and a stout, keen edged jack-knife, — these being the only 
 tools required. He should also provide himself with a coil of 
 fine brass "sucker wire," or a quantity of horse-hair nooses 
 (which will be described further on), a small ball of tough twine 
 and a pocket full of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, 
 of course depending upon the game he intends to trap. With 
 these, his requirements are complete, and he has the material 
 for a score of capital snares, which will do him much excel- 
 lent service if properly constructed. Perhaps the most com- 
 mon of the noose traps is the ordinary 
 
 QUAIL SNARE, 
 
 which forms the subject of our first illustration. This consists 
 of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They 
 
 4 
 
40 
 
 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 may be of any rxumber, and should either consist of fine wire, 
 horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass " sucker 
 wire," to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and 
 country stores, is the best. Each noose should be about four 
 inches in diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted 
 on one end of the wire, and the other passed through it, thus 
 making a slipping loop, which will be found to work very easily. 
 Fifteen or twenty of these nooses should be made, after which 
 they should be fastened either to a stout string or wire, at 
 distances of about four inches from each other, as seen in our 
 illustration. Each end of the long string supporting the nooses 
 should then be fastened to a wooden peg. After selecting the 
 ground, the pegs should be driven into the earth, drawing the 
 
 string tightly, as seen in our illustration. The ground around 
 the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn, oats, and the like, 
 and the trap is set. As a general thing, it is advisable to set it 
 in a neighborhood where quails are known to abound ; and as 
 they run all over the ground in search of food, they are sure to 
 come across the bait strewn for them, and equally as certain to 
 be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer has known 
 as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on a string of 
 only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock will occasionally 
 be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-times happen 
 that a rabbit will be secured by the device. 
 
 HOOP NOOSES. 
 
 This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached 
 to a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts, 
 which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering 
 the bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance 
 is complete. 
 
 This is a very old and approved method. 
 
 In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also 
 
HOOP NOOSES. 41 
 
 another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are 
 tacked to the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from 
 each end, — the bait adjusted as there seen. 
 
 We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and 
 they are commonly used ; but, as it takes considerable time to 
 make them, and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, 
 we rather recommend the wire in preference. We will give a 
 few simple directions, however, for the making of the horse-hair 
 nooses, in case our readers might desire to use them instead. 
 
 Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would 
 recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of 
 the hairs and double it in the middle, hold the double between 
 the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends 
 hang from the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs 
 between the thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. 
 Now proceed to twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, 
 letting them twist together as the loop emerges on the upper 
 side of the thumb. 
 
 A little practice will overcome what at first seems very diffi- 
 cult. To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right 
 distance of separation, and at the same time to twist them and 
 draw the loop from between the fingers as they are twisted, 
 seems quite a complicated operation ; and so it will be found at 
 first. But when once mastered by practice, the twisting of five 
 nooses a minute will be an easy matter. When the entire length 
 of the hairs are twisted, the ends should be cut off even and 
 then passed through the small loop at the folded end. The 
 noose is then ready to be fastened to the main string of sup- 
 port. Horse-hair nooses are commonly used in nearly all snares 
 as they are always to be had, and possess considerable strength. 
 The fine brass wire is also extensively used, and the writer 
 rather prefers it. It is very strong and slips easily, besides do- 
 ing away with the trouble of twisting the loops, which to some 
 might be a very difficult and tedious operation. We recommend 
 the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future, although the 
 horse-hair may be substituted whenever desired. 
 
 There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps very 
 commonly utihzed by professional trappers of many countries. 
 A low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length 
 small openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are 
 placed, as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn 
 around on both sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other 
 game, on its discovery, are almost sure to become entangled 
 
42 
 
 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, that 
 they will always seek to pass U7tder an object which comes in 
 their way rather than fly over it ; and although the hedge of 
 this trap is only a foot or more in height, the birds will almost 
 invariably run about until they find an opening, in preference 
 to flying over it. It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they 
 are so easily taken by this method. Our illustration gives only 
 a very short section of hedge; it may be extended to any 
 length. The writer's experience with the hedge nooses has 
 been very satisfactory, although never using a length greater 
 
 than ten feet. It is well to set the hedge in the locality where 
 quails or partridges are known to run. And in setting, it is 
 always desirable to build the hedge so that it will stretch over 
 some open ground, and connect with two trees or bushes. Ce- 
 dar boughs are excellent for the purpose, but any close brush- 
 wood will answer very well. Strew the ground with corn, oats 
 and the like. A small quantity only is necessary. 
 
 There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very 
 little known here. It is a tree trap, and goes by the name of 
 the " triangle snare." It is not designed for the capture of any 
 particular kind of bird, although it often will secure fine and 
 rare specimens. It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and 
 tied in the form of a triangle, as shown in our illustration. 
 ^^^^. '<. ,^ This may be of any size, depend- 
 ^'^ ^ ' ing altogether on the bird the 
 young trapper fancies to secure. A 
 ^_^, noose should be suspended in the 
 ^|Sf^' triangle from its longest point. This 
 Y^V noose should hang as indicated in 
 our illustration, falling low enough 
 to leave a space of an inch or so 
 below it at the bottom of the triangle. 
 The bait, consisting of a piece of an 
 apple, a berry, insect, or piece of 
 
THE "TWITCH-UP.' 43 
 
 meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be sus- 
 pended in the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance 
 should be hung in some tree to await events. As they are so 
 easily made and can be carried with so Httle trouble, it is an 
 excellent plan to set out with a dozen or so, hanging them all in 
 different parts of the woods ; as, under circumstances of so many 
 being set, scarcely a day will pass in which the trapper will not 
 be rewarded by some one of the snares. The writer once knew 
 of a case where a hawk was captured by one of these simple 
 devices. In this case it had been set expressly, and the wire 
 was extra strong. This trap, we believe, is quite common in 
 parts of Germany, but, as far as we know, has not been utilized 
 to any great extent in our country. We recommend it with 
 great confidence. 
 
 For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the 
 wire noose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a 
 woodchuck has been secured by the aid of this simple invention. 
 It is only necessary to arrange the loop in the opening of the bur- 
 row, securing the wire to a stout stick, firmly driven into the 
 ground. If properly " set " the animal, on emerging from the 
 burrow, will become entangled, and by his efforts to disengage 
 himself will only tighten the loop and thus render escape im- 
 possible. For rats, the noose should be attached to a nail, and 
 the wire similarly arranged over the hole. 
 
 The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most 
 effective trap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once 
 within its grasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose 
 tighter. They are quick in their action, and produce death 
 without much pain, and for this reason are to be commended. 
 
 THE "TWITCH-UP." 
 
 Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all 
 our boy-readers will immediately recognize ; for it would cer- 
 tainly seem that any country boy who does not know the 
 " Twitch-up " must be far behind the times, and live in a local- 
 ity where there are no rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides 
 himself, to suggest it. This snare is a universal favorite 
 among nearly all country boys, and our illustration will immedi- 
 ately bring it to mind. Its name, " The Twitch-up," conveys 
 perfectly its method of working. Our illustration represents 
 the trap as it appears when set. It has many varieties, of which 
 we will select the best. They maybe divided into two classes — 
 those with upright nooses, and those in which the noose is 
 
44 
 
 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonly called 
 " ground snares." We will give our attention first to the " up- 
 right" style. These are rather entitled to preference on ac- 
 count of the harmless death which they inflict, invariably catch- 
 ing by the neck. Whereas the ground nooses as frequently lift 
 their prey into the air by their feet, and thus prolong their suf- 
 fering. Twitch-ups are the most successful and sure of any 
 snares, and that, too, without being complicated. The writer, 
 in his younger days, was quite an expert in trapping, and he can 
 
 truthfully say that he found more enjoyment and had better suc- 
 cess with these than with any other kinds of traps he employed. 
 They are generally set in thickets or woods where either rab- 
 bits or partridges are known to abound. Having arrived at his 
 chosen trapping ground, the young trapper should first select 
 some slender, elastic sapling ; that of the hickory is the best, 
 and is generally to be found in open woods — if not, some other 
 kind will answer very well. It should be about five or six feet 
 in length, (trimmed of its branches,) and in diameter need be no 
 larger than an axe-handle or a broom-stick. When this is decid- 
 ed, some spot about five feet distant from the sapling should 
 then be selected. The hatchet and knife will now come into 
 excellent use, in cutting the sticks for the little inclosure shown 
 
THE '* TWITCH-UP. 
 
 45 
 
 in our drawing. This should be about eight or ten inches in 
 diameter, and of about the same height. The sticks should be 
 driven into the ground in a circle, leaving an open space of about 
 six inches on one side. A stout switch as large as a man's little 
 finger, and nearly two feet long, should then'be cut and nicely 
 sharpened at both ends. This should then be driven into the 
 ground in the form of an arch, at the opening of the inclosure. 
 We will now ask our readers to turn their attention to the 
 next illustration, in order to understand what is to follow. This 
 picture shows the method of setting the trap. 
 
 After the arch is firmly fixed in its place, a short piece of 
 stick should be cut, of a length corresponding to the height of 
 the arch. To the middle of this stick the bait should be at- 
 tached, being either tied to it or 
 stuck on a plug driven into the 
 stick, the latter being sharpened 
 on one end. Next proceed 
 to cut another stick, of about 
 six.inches in length ; let this be 
 flattened on one end. The wire 
 noose should then be fastened 
 to the opposite end. The noose 
 in this case should be large 
 enough to fill the opening of the 
 arch. We will now go back to 
 the sapling again. It should be 
 bent down slightly, and a piece 
 of the strong twine should be 
 tied to its tip. Taking hold of the string, proceed to bend down 
 the end of the sapling, in the direction of the inclosure, until it 
 draws with a force strong enough to lift a rabbit if he were tied 
 to the end of it. Thus holding it down with the string against 
 the front of the inclosure, cut off the twine at the place where 
 it crosses the top of the arch, as this will be the required length. 
 It is now necessary to tie the end of this string to the same 
 piece of wood and at the same place to which the noose was 
 tied. When this is done the trap may be set as shown in the 
 cut. The spring sapling should be bent as seen in the first 
 illustration. The piece of wood holding the noose should be 
 passed beneath the top of the arch, as far as it will go, with its 
 long end pointing inside the inclosure. By now supporting the 
 inside end with the bait stick, and carefully adjusting the noose 
 so as to com letcly fill the arch, the trap will be set. 
 
 ^. UU-^' 
 
46 
 
 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS 
 
 In order to reach the bait, the rabbit or b.rd must necessarily 
 pass its head through the noose, after which, if the bait be 
 scarcely touched^ the animal's doom is sealed, and he is lifted 
 into the air, generally suffering almost instant death. It is well 
 known that in the case of a rabbit the neck is broken by a very 
 slight blow, a strong snap of the finger being often sufficient. 
 It is therefore safe to conclude that when thus suddenly caught 
 and lifted by the noose, death must occur almost instantane- 
 ously from the same cause. 
 
 It is not really necessary to success that the force of the sap- 
 ling should be strong enough to lift the rabbit from the ground, 
 as a mere strong tightening of the noose would be sufficient to 
 cause strangulation and death. But we recommend the former 
 method as being less painful and more rapid in its effects. 
 
 If the young trapper should experience any difficulty in find- 
 ing saplings of the right size, in the locality where he desires 
 to set his traps, the difficulty may be easily mended by cutting 
 the poles elsewhere, and carrying them to his trapping-ground, 
 this answering the purpose equally well. They should be sharp- 
 ened nicely on the large end, and firmly stuck into ground. 
 The "Twitch-up " may be used for the capture of all varieties of 
 game, and when set with the noose in the opening of a hollow 
 tree, a stray coon will occasionally be entrapped. 
 
 The next figure represents another method of constructing 
 this trap. The picture explains itself. Instead of the arch, 
 two notched sticks are driven 
 into the ground, one on each 
 side of the opening of the pen. 
 The other piece should be of 
 the shape shown in the figure, 
 made either in one piece or in 
 two pieces fastened together. 
 They may all be constructed 
 from twigs in the woods. Let 
 the noose and draw-string now 
 be fastened to the middle of the 
 cross piece, and when set it will 
 appear as in our figure. It will 
 easily be seen that a slight pull 
 on the bait will turn the cross^* 
 piece from beneath the notches, '.>"**'?*? 
 
 and allow it to fly into the air. Method No. 2. 
 
 In our next instance the same principle is employed. The 
 
THE " TVVITCII-UP. 
 
 47 
 
 notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, abt)ut 
 
 five inches apart, with 
 their notches towards 
 ^the front. A forked 
 bait stick of the shape 
 shown is then procured. 
 The draw-string should 
 be attached near the 
 end furthest from the 
 fork. By now insert- 
 ing the ends hghtly be- 
 neath the notches in 
 Method No. 3. the pegs, at the same 
 
 time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trap will be 
 set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge the pieces. Of 
 course the noose must be arranged in the opening of the pen, 
 as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both cases should 
 be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at {a), so that 
 the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position. 
 
 A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In 
 this instance the .original arch is used, or else some circular 
 opening constructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the 
 back part of the inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks 
 are then to be made similar to those mentioned in our first ex- 
 ample of the " Twitch-up." Let the draw-string be tied to the 
 end of one of these sticks ; after which it should be passed 
 undei the inside arch, being brought out in front of it, and 
 there supported by the bait-stick, as seen in our illustration. 
 The noose should then be attached 
 to the draw-string above the pen, 
 and afterward brought down and 
 arranged in front of the opening. 
 The trap is then set, and will be 
 found on trial to work admirably. 
 
 One of the simplest as well as 
 surest of *' Twitch-up " traj^s forms 
 the subject of our next illustration. 
 Like the foregoing varieties it is of xilvt^^ 
 course to be surrounded by its pen, ^^■^c:^ 
 and supi^lied with a circular open- ^" 
 ing or arch at one side, in which Method No. 4. 
 
 to hang the noose. It is constructed of three twigs. A 
 simple crotch (a) should be firmly inserted in the ground at 
 
48 
 
 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 the back part of the pen ; (^) 
 the bait stick, consists of a 
 straight twig, five or six 
 inches in length, and should 
 be attached to the draw- 
 string at about half an inch 
 from the large end ; (c) is 
 another forked stick with 
 unequal arms, the long one 
 ^ , being driven into the ground 
 "^^^^'-J i» near the opening of the pen 
 ^r'^V^Sff*- 'and a little to one side, let- 
 Method No. 5. ting the remaining arm point 
 directly towards the crotch-stick at the back of the pen. The 
 noose having been attached to the draw-string, the trap may 
 now be set. Lower the bait stick and pass the large end under 
 the crotch at the back of the pen, catching the baited end un- 
 derneath the tip of the forked stick near the pen's opening. 
 Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, and the thing is 
 done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throw the pieces 
 asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the point of the 
 forked stick (c) where it comes in contact with the bait stick, in 
 order to make the bearing more slight, and consequently more 
 easily thrown from its balance. 
 
 THE poacher's SNARE. 
 
 Our next example represents one of the oldest and best 
 snares in existence, — simple in construction, and almost infal- 
 lible in its operations. It is the one in most common use 
 among the poachers of England, hence its name. The pieces 
 are three in number, and may be cut from pine wood, affording 
 easy and profitable employment for the jack-knife during odd 
 hours and rainy days, when time hangs heavily. 
 
 The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction 
 that a sufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in 
 less than two hours, by any smart boy, who is at all " handy " 
 with his jack-knife. 
 
 If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even 
 much easier, — mere splitting and notching being then all 
 that is necessary. The bait stick should be about eight 
 inches long, pointed at one end, and supplied with a notch 
 in the other at about half an inch from the tip. The upright 
 
THE POACHER'S SNARE. 
 
 49 
 
 stick should be considerably shorter than the bait stick, and 
 have a length of about ten inches, one end being nicely 
 pointed, and the broad side of the other extremity supplied 
 
 with a notch similar to 
 the bait stick. About four 
 inches from the blunt end, 
 and on the narrow side of 
 the stick, a square notch 
 should be cut, sufficiently 
 large to admit the bait 
 stick loosely. The catch 
 piece now remains. This 
 should be about two and 
 a-half inches in length, 
 half an inch in width, and 
 bevelled off at each end 
 into a flat edge. The 
 shapes of the different pieces, together with their setting, will 
 be readily understood by a look at our illustration. 
 
 A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and 
 may be easily carried by the young trapper, together with his 
 other necessaries, as he starts off into the woods. He will 
 thus be supplied with parts for thirty-three traps, all ready to 
 be set, only requiring the stakes for the pens, which may be 
 easily cut in the woods. Having selected a flexible sapling 
 about five feet in length, and having stripped it of its branches, 
 proceed to adjust the pieces. Take one of the upright 
 sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, with its upper notch 
 facing the sapling, and at about four feet distant from it. Bend 
 down the ^' springer," and by its force determine the required 
 length for the draw-string attaching one end to the tip of the 
 sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, the latter 
 having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose should then 
 be attached to the draw-string about six inches above the catch- 
 piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously di- 
 rected. Its entrance should be on the side furthest from the 
 springer, and should be so built as that the peg in the ground 
 shall be at the back part of the enclosure. The pen being fin- 
 ished, the trap may be set. 
 
 Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square 
 notch in the side of the upright peg ; or, if desired, it may be 
 adjusted by a pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our 
 illustration, always letting the baited end project toward the 
 
50 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 bpening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the 
 notches in the back of the upright peg and extremity of the 
 bait-stick. By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently with- 
 drawing the hand, the pieces will hold themselves together, 
 only awaiting a lift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the 
 wire loop at the opening of the pen, and you may leave the trap 
 with the utmost confidence in its ability to take care of itself, 
 and any unlucky intruder who tries to steal its property. 
 
 Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed 
 from rough twigs, as these are always to be found in the 
 v/oods, and with a little practice are easily cut and shaped into 
 the desired forms. If desired, however, many of them may be 
 whittled from pine wood like the foregoing, and the pieces car- 
 ried in a bundle, ready for immediate use. In either case, whe- 
 ther made from the rough twigs or seasoned wood, it is a good 
 plan to have them already prepared, and thus save time at the 
 trapping ground when time is more valuable. 
 
 THE PORTABLE SNARE. 
 
 This is simply a modification of the snare just described, 
 but possesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In 
 the first place, it requires little or no protection in the shape of 
 an enclosure. It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short 
 in any place where an upright elastic branch can be found or 
 adjusted. Like the foregoing, it is to be commended for its 
 portability, fifty or sixty of the pieces making but a small par- 
 cel, and furnishing material for a score of traps. We call it 
 the ** portable snare" partly in order to distinguish it from the 
 one just described, but chiefly because this particular variety is 
 generally called by that name in countries where it is most 
 used. 
 
 It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle 
 or thin board. Let the first be about eight inches long, and 
 three-quarters of an inch in width. This is for the upright. 
 An oblong mortise should be cut through this piece, one inch 
 in length, and beginning at about an inch from the end of the 
 stick. Three inches from the other end, and on one of the 
 broad sides of the stick, a notch should be made, correspond- 
 ing in shape to that shown in our illustration. The bait stick 
 should be four or five inches long, one end fitting easily into the 
 mortise, where it should be secured by a wire or smooth nail 
 
THE PORTABLE SNARE 
 
 51 
 
 driven through so as to form a hinge, on which it will work 
 easily. On the upper side of this stick, and two inches dis- 
 tant from the pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to that in the 
 upright. The catch piece should be about two inches in length, 
 and bevelled off to a flat edge at each end. This completes the 
 pieces. 
 
 To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sa]> 
 ling, after which the upright stick may be attached to it close 
 to the ground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, 
 twisted firmly around both. It is well to cut slight grooves at 
 each end of the uj^right for the reception of the wires, in order 
 to prevent slipping. Tic a strong piece of twine around one 
 
52 
 
 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut 
 the string about two feet in length, and attach the other 
 end to the tip of the sapling. Adjust the bait stick on its 
 pivot. By now lowering the catch piece, and lodging the knot- 
 ted end beneath the notch in the upright and the other end in 
 the notch on the bait stick, the pieces will appear as in our 
 drawing. Care should be taken to set the catch pieces as 
 slightly as possible in the notches, in order to insure sensitive- 
 ness. At about four inches from the catch piece, the wire 
 noose should be attached and arranged in a circle directly 
 around the bait. By now backing up the trap with a few 
 sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from be- 
 hind, the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided crea- 
 ture that dares to test its efficacy. By adjusting the draw- 
 string so far as the upper end of the catch piece, the leverage 
 on the bait stick is so slight as to require a mere touch to over- 
 come it ; and we may safely say that, when this trap is once 
 baited, it will stay baited, so far as animal intruders are con- 
 cerned, as we never yet have seen a rabbit or bird skilful enough 
 to remove the tempting morsel before being summarily dealt 
 with by the noose on guard duty. 
 
 For portability, however, the following has no eaual. 
 
 THE "SIMPLEST'' SNARE. 
 
 Thfl* is one of the most ingeni- 
 ous and effective devices used in 
 the art of trapping; and the prin- 
 ciple is so simple and universal 
 in its application to traps in gen- 
 eral as to become a matter of 
 great value to all who are at all 
 interested in the subject. There 
 is scarcely a trap of any kind 
 which could not be set with the 
 knotted string and bait stick, at 
 the expense of a little thought 
 and ingenuity. The principle is 
 ^-^* J- >'-/.^. >S. easily understood by a look at our 
 ^'i^il.^-^-^^^ engraving, which probably repre- 
 Method No. i. sents the simplest twitch-up it is 
 
 possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole the 
 size of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the 
 
THE QUAIL SNARE. 
 
 53 
 
 ground. The "knot'* is made on the end of the raw-string, 
 and passed through the hole in the peg from behind, being 
 secured in place by the insertion of the bait stick in front. 
 The latter should be about four inches long, and should be 
 inserted very lightly, — merely enough to prevent the knot from 
 slipping back. The noose should be fastened to the draw-string 
 six or seven inches from the knot, and arranged in front of the 
 bait at the opening of the pen, which should be constructed as 
 l^reviously directed. The peg should be about six inches long 
 and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inch auger. Dozens ol 
 these pegs may be carried without inconvenience, and utilized 
 in the same number of snares, in a very short time. We have 
 already described the so-called " portable snare ; " but, for 
 portability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the 
 above. We give also a few other applications of the same prin- 
 ciple. 
 
 In the second example, 
 a horizontal stick is used 
 instead of the peg, the 
 hole being made in its 
 centre. Its ends are 
 caught in notches in op- 
 posite sticks at the back 
 part of the pen, and 
 the noose arranged at 
 the opening. 
 
 Again, by a third meth- 
 od (see engraving ^ext 
 page), these notched 
 sticks may be driven into 
 the ground first, and a 
 row of twigs continued 
 on them on both sides, 
 thus leaving a passage- 
 way between, as repre- 
 sented in the illustration. A noose may then be set at each 
 opening, with the bait in the middle ; so that, at whichever side 
 it is approached, the result is the same, besides affording a 
 chance of securing two birds at the same time. 
 
 THE QUAIL SNARE. 
 
 That quaus are sociable in their habits, and that they run 
 together in broods in search of their food, is a fact well known 
 
 Method No. 2. 
 
54 
 
 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 to all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus afforded 
 the hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advan- 
 tage may be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for 
 it. For this purpose there is no invention more desirable or 
 effective than the snare we next illustrate ; and on account of 
 the companionable habits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch 
 six birds as one. The principle on which the trap works, is 
 the same as in the three foregoing. 
 
 Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about 
 four inches apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre 
 
 caught beneath these sum- 
 mits, as just described. It 
 should be firmly secured ; 
 several nooses are next to 
 be attached to the draw- 
 string, and the trap set as 
 already directed. 
 
 The best bait consists of 
 a " nub " of pop-corn, firmly 
 impaled on the spindle, to- 
 gether with a few loose 
 Method No. 3. grains scattered on the 
 
 ground right beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around 
 the bait so as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick 
 introduced into the hole a little more firmly than when set 
 
 with one noose. The quail on 
 reaching the trap all rush for the 
 corn on the ground, and thus 
 fill nearly if not all the nooses. 
 When the supply here is ex- 
 hausted, then united attacks are 
 directed towards the " nub " on 
 the bait stick, which soon be- 
 comes loosened : the knot is thus 
 released and each noose will 
 probably launch a victim in mid- 
 air. This invention is original 
 with the author of this work, so 
 far as he knows ; and it will be 
 found the simplest as well as 
 nost effective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned 
 is bait partly on account of its being a favorite food with the 
 quail; but particularly because the J^eckin^ which it necessitates 
 
 ^^ 
 
THE BOX SNARE. 
 
 SS 
 
 in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to sprino^ 
 the trap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will 
 answer very well Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the 
 ground bait, if desired. 
 
 THE BOX SNARE. 
 
 This is a most unique device, and will well repay any one 
 
 who may aesire 
 to test its merits. 
 It may be set for 
 rabbits, coon, or 
 feathered game, 
 of course vary- 
 ing the size of 
 the box accord- 
 ingly. For ordin- 
 ary purposes, it 
 should be seven 
 oreight inches 
 square, leaving 
 one end open. 
 Place it in the 
 position shown 
 in the illustra- 
 tion and proceed 
 to bore an auger 
 hole in the top 
 board, one and a 
 half inches from 
 the back edge. 
 
 This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly opposite 
 to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched 
 peg should be inserted. A gimlet hole sliould now be bored 
 on a hne between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an 
 inch from ,be latter. A small stout screw eye should next be 
 inserted at ':he rear edge of the board, and another one fastened 
 to the back board, two inches from the bottom. With these 
 simple preparations the box is complete. The bait stick should 
 be about five or six inches long and supplied with a notch at 
 the upper end. It should be of such a size as to pass easily 
 into the auger hole, and provided with a peg inserted through 
 it at about an inch and a half from the notched end, as shown 
 in our illustration at (a). The object of this peg is to prevent 
 the bait stick from being drawn entirely through the hole by the 
 
 5 
 
56 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 force ot the pull from above. The catch piece should be only 
 long enough to secure its ends beneath the notches in the pe^ 
 at the top of the box and the j^rojecting bait stick. It should 
 be bevelled off at the tips as in the instances previously de- 
 scribed, and attached to a piece of sucker wire, the point of 
 attachment being at about an inch from the end of the stick. 
 The wire should be about two and a half feet in length, the 
 catch piece being fastened at about six inches from one end. 
 To set this neat little invention it is first necessary to procure 
 a strong and elastic switch about four feet in length, sharpen it 
 slightly at the large end and insert it firmly in the screw eye at 
 the back of the box, securing it in place at the top by strings 
 through the screw eye at that place. By nov/ attaching the 
 short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling, inserting the bait 
 stick from the inside of the box, and securing the catch piece 
 in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium, and the 
 only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long end of the 
 wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slipping noose 
 which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In order to 
 reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose, " 
 and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that tempting 
 morsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire around 
 the neck of the intruder. Where the trap is small and the 
 captured animal is large, it w^ill sometimes happen that the box 
 v/ill be carried a distance of several feet before overpowering 
 its victim ; but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers 
 of the sapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. 
 If desired, the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree 
 to prevent any such capers ; but it will generally be found unne- 
 cessary, and a few minutes' search will always reveal it v/ith its 
 unlucky captive. 
 
 We have described the box with its spring attached ; but this 
 is not a requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when 
 required. 
 
 The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and 
 whalebone, for the capture of small birds, and used with good 
 success. The size we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits 
 and animals of the same size, but is really larger than necessary 
 for feathered game. 
 
 THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE. 
 
 This is another embodiment of the same principle which has 
 already been described, viz. — the knotted string. By many it 
 
THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE. 
 
 57 
 
 is considered ah improvement on the box snare just mentioned, 
 owing to the possibiHty of its taking two victims at the same 
 time. It may be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be 
 found very efficient. 
 
 It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in 
 length, and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board 
 
 a hole of the diameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a 
 smaller aperture also made in the middle of each end near the 
 edge as seen in the accompanying engraving. The spring is 
 next required. This should consist of an elastic switch or 
 small pole, three or more feet in length. It should be inserted 
 in a slanting auger hole, made through the middle of one of the 
 side boards near the bottom at the angle shown at (a)» Should 
 the switch fit loosely it may be easily tightened by a small 
 wedge driven in beside it. The bait stick (^) should be about 
 four inches in length, and large enough to fit casiiy into the 
 hole in the centre of the top board. Next procure a stout bit 
 of cord about eight inches in length. Tie one end to the tip of 
 
5^ SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 the switch and provide the other with a large double knot. A 
 second knot should then be made, about an inch and a half 
 above the first. A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity. 
 Its length should be about five feet, and its centre should be 
 tied over the uppermost knot in the string. If the bait is now 
 in readiness, the trap may be set. Bend down the switch until 
 the end knot will pass through the hole in the centre of the 
 board. When it appears in the inside of the box, it should 
 then be secured by the insertion of the top of the bait stick, 
 as shown at (b). This insertion need be only very slight, a 
 sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficient to prevent the 
 knot from slipping back. The spring is thus held in the posi- 
 tion seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of the sucker wire 
 should then be passed downward through the small holes and 
 arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap is 
 now set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that 
 bait from either approach, will bring its career to an untimely 
 end. The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need 
 only the slightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting ^s to 
 be guarded against, however, being as likely to be sprung by a 
 mouse as by a larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, 
 being entirely dependent upon the slight or firm insertion of 
 the bait stick. Among all the " modi operandi " in the con- 
 struction of traps, there is scarcely one more simple than the 
 principle embodied in this variety, and there is none more ef- 
 fective. 
 
 The box snare already described may be set by the same 
 method, and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any 
 trap, from the simplest snare described en page ( 52 ) to the 
 largest dead-fall. 
 
 GROUND SNARES. 
 
 THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE. 
 
 This is the variety of snare which has been in very common 
 use for ages, and has always been the one solitary example 
 of a noose trap which our ^' boys' books '' have invariably 
 pounced upon for illustration. For the capture of small birds 
 it works very nicely ; and as without it our list of traps would be 
 incomplete, we will give an illustration of it as it appears when 
 
THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE. 59 
 
 set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is first 
 necessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about 
 eighteen inches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (a), 
 securing the tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the 
 larger end to project an inch or more beyond the other. This 
 loop, which is called the "spreader," should now be laid down 
 flat; ond on the upper side of the large end and about an inch 
 from its tip, a notch should be cut as our illustration shows. 
 The spring should next be procured, and should consist of 
 a pliant, elastic switch, about four feet in length. A piece of 
 fish line about two feet long, should now be fastened to the tip 
 of the switch, and the loose end of the cord attached to a catch 
 piece of the shape shown at (b). This catch may be about an 
 inch and a half long, and should be whittled off to an edge on 
 one end, the string being attached at about its centre. A slip- 
 ping noose, made from strong horse hair, or piece of fine 
 
 wire about two feet long, should now be fastened to the string 
 about two inches above the catch. Having the switch thus 
 prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground at the place 
 selected for the trap. When this is done, another small flexi- 
 ble twig about a foot in length should cut, and being sharp- 
 ened at both ends, should be inserted in the ground in the form 
 of an arch {c), at about three feet distant from the spring, 
 and having its broad side toward it. Insert the notch of the 
 spreader exactly under the top of the arc, and note the spot 
 where the curved end of the former touches the ground. At 
 this point a peg (d) should be driven leaving a projecting por- 
 tion of about two inches. The pieces are now ready to be 
 
6o SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 adjusted. Pass the curved end of the spreader over the peg, 
 bringing the notched end beneath the arc with tlie notch up- 
 permost. Draw down the catch piece, and pass it beneath the 
 arc from the opposite side letting the bevelled end catch in the 
 notch in the spreader, the other end resting against the upper 
 part of the arc. Arrange the slipping noose over the spreader 
 as our drawing indicates, bringing it inside the peg, as there 
 shown, as otherv/ise it w^ould catch upon it when the snare is 
 sprung. Strew the bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the 
 like, inside the spreader, and all is ready. Presently a little 
 bird is seen to settle on the ground in the neighborhood of the 
 trap ; he spies the bait and hopping towards it, gradually makes 
 bold enough to alight upon the spreader, which by his weight 
 immediately falls, the catch is released, the switch flies up, and 
 the unlucky bird dangles in the air by the legs. If the trapper 
 is near he can easily release the struggHng creature before it is 
 at all injured, otherwise it will flutter itself into a speedy death. 
 
 THE IMPROVED SPRINGIE. 
 
 The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the 
 last mentioned trap, whereby it can be used for the capture of 
 larger game, and with most excellent success. In place of the 
 " spreader " a crotched stick is used, the crotch of which cat_hes 
 around the peg, the other end being supplied with a notch as 
 
 in the case of the 
 spreader. On the up- 
 per side of this stick 
 a small pasteboard 
 platform is tacked, 
 over which and be- 
 neath which the bait 
 \M-I?'S«ii^^^«^'i^^'^2^v^^^ ^ is thrown. Instead 
 
 -^X5s^^^:;f'^7^ of the arc, a stout 
 
 " " crotch stick is sub- 
 
 stituted. The noose should be at least ten inches in diameter 
 and constructed of sucker wire. It should be arranged on 
 the ground around the bait and inside of the peg. When the 
 snare is set, the crotched end of the bait stick v/ill thus rest 
 near the earth, the notched end only being lifted in order to 
 reach the catch piece. It is well to insert a few small sticks 
 inside the edge of the noose in order to keep it in correct posi- 
 tion. If properly set, the quail or partridge in approaching the 
 
THE PLATFORM SNARE!. 
 
 61 
 
 trap will have to step inside the noose in order to reach the 
 bait, and while thus regahng itself with a choice meal of oats, 
 berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon the bait 
 stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus set 
 the catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp 
 from which he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual 
 snare ; but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and 
 thus torturing them to death, it is to be deprecated. We would 
 recommend in preference, those varieties already described 
 as being fully as successful, and far less cruel. They effect 
 almost instant death, either by broken necks or strangulation, 
 and are in this regard among the most humane traps on record. 
 
 THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE. 
 
 For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps which 
 can comjDare with this variety, although it is somewhat similar 
 to those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. 
 The trap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three 
 inches long, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout -crotcii 
 of the proportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at 
 which will make the setting too clear to need description. Be 
 
 careful that the bait 
 stick is sety?//^ and 
 rests just beneath 
 the tip of the catch- 
 piece so that a mere 
 touch on the bait will 
 release it. Arrange 
 the noose as in the 
 instance last de- 
 
 -^ ■ -^^ scribed, and bait 
 
 either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbin of corn, 
 as our accompanymg cut indicates. Always remembering that 
 the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birds to 
 si^ryinside of it in order to reach the bait. 
 
 THE PLATFORM SNARE. 
 
 This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game 
 trap, and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab 
 or light board about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. 
 Having selected the spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff 
 
62 
 
 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 
 
 switch abouc five feet in length, and having sharpened the larg- 
 er end to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a 
 
 slanting direction 
 as our drawing il- 
 lustrates. Next 
 bend down the 
 tip of the sapling, 
 and resting one 
 end of the board 
 on the ground, 
 catch the tip of 
 the switch against 
 the other end, as 
 our illustration al- 
 so shows. A little 
 experimenting will soon determine the rignt place for the board, 
 after which two pegs should be driven in the ground at its edge 
 to hold it against the pressure on the opposite end. This being 
 done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch, after which 
 the pen is the only thing required. This should be built of 
 simple little twigs arranged around three sides of the board, 
 leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower the switch 
 and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch the tip of 
 the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose over the 
 platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has been 
 constructed properly and set " fine " it will take but a very 
 shght weight on the platform to lower it from its bearing, the 
 weight of an ordinary bird being sufficient, and tlie springer 
 thus released will fly forward either catching its victim by the 
 neck or legs, as the case may be. It may sometimes be found 
 necessary to cut a slight notch in the end of the springer to 
 receive the board, but in every case it should be tried several 
 times in order to be sure that it works sensitively. 
 
BOOK III. 
 
 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 MONG the following will be found the 
 various net and cage traps commonly 
 used in the capture of winged game, be- 
 sides several other unique devices in 
 the shape of box traps, etc., many of 
 which are original with the author of 
 this work and appear in the present 
 volume for the -first time in book form, 
 Commonest among bird-catching ma- 
 chines, is the well known invention of 
 
 THE SIEVE TRAP. 
 
 This device certainly possesses one great advantage : — // is 
 not complicated. Any' one possessed of a sieve and a piece of 
 string can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided 
 he has patience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost 
 sure to be rewarded for his pains, — if he wait long enough. This 
 of course depends upon circumstances : when the birds are plenty 
 and are not shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at 
 once in a very few minutes, while at other times an hour's 
 patient waiting is unrewarded. 
 
 The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus 
 propped in position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or 
 thread is attached and the same carried to some near place of 
 concealment, when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch 
 for his ''little bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with 
 bread crumbs, seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds 
 are enjoying their repast, the string is pulled and they are made 
 prisoners. The sieve maybe arranged with a spindle as described 
 for the coop trap, page ( (:^ ), and may thus be left to take care of 
 
66 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 itself. Where the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former 
 method answers the purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting 
 is likely to ensue the self-acting trap is better. 
 
 THE BRICK TRAP. 
 
 This is a very old invention, and has always Dcen one of the 
 three or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publi- 
 cation in all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most 
 of our readers. 
 
 Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in 
 our engraving, letting them rest on their narrow sides. If prop- 
 erly arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as 
 large as the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of 
 the shape shown in the separate drawing (^) having a small piece 
 cut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. 
 Next cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly 
 
 pointed at each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be 
 driven into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from 
 either of the end bricks and projecting about two inches from 
 the ground. The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end 
 of the forked twig over the top of the plug, with the forks point- 
 ing forward, or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. 
 The pointed stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on 
 the flat end of the fork, over the plug, and the other beneath the 
 fifth brick, which should be rested upon it. The drawing {b) clearly 
 shows the arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of 
 berries, bird-seed, or other similar substances, should then be - 
 scattered on the irround on the inside of the inclosure. When 
 
THE COOP TRAP. 67 
 
 the bird flies to the trap he will generally alight on the forked 
 twig, which by his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, 
 thus letting fall the sustained brick. 
 
 It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed 
 will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmost 
 brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely 
 
 ^'^ ^jr^- 
 
 cover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual little 
 contrivance, and oan be made with a i?ox instead of bricks, if 
 desired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top 
 brick, and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the 
 bricks further apart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the 
 captive bird. 
 
 THE COOP TRAP. 
 
 This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and 
 large feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by 
 trappers throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures 
 its victims without harm and furnishes the additional advantage 
 of good ventilation for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary 
 coop may be used in the construction of this trap, although 
 the homely one we illustrate is most commonly employed on 
 account of its simplicity and easy manufacture. It also does 
 away with the troublesome necessity of carrying a coop to the 
 trapping ground, as it can be made in a very few minutes with 
 common rough hewn twigs by the clever use of the jack knife. The 
 only remaining requisites consist of a few yards of very stout 
 Indian twine, several small squares of brown pasteboard, a dozen 
 tacks and a number of pieces of board five inches square, each one 
 having a hole through its centre, as our engraving (d) indicates. 
 Having these, the young trapper starts out with material sufficient 
 
68 
 
 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 for several coops, and if he is smart will find no difficulty in 
 making and setting a dozen traps in a forenoon. 
 
 In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut 
 four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches in 
 length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot come 
 on the inside as our illustration {a) explains and leaving a loose 
 
 length of about two feet of string from each corner. This forms 
 the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs of 
 about the same thickness, and from them select two more cor- 
 responding in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the 
 base of the coop on the ground, and collected the strings inside 
 proceed to lay the two selected sticks across the ends of the 
 
THE COOP TRAP. 69 
 
 Uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two. 
 Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut 
 and laid across the ends of tlie last two, and directly above the 
 second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of 
 equal size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks 
 •should be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be 
 placed a little inside the square. Let the next two be of the 
 same size as the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath 
 them, thus forming the commencement of the conical shape 
 which our engraving presents. By thus continuing alternate layers 
 of the two sticks cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than 
 the one previous, the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. 
 After ten or a dozen sets have been laid in place, the arm 
 should be introduced into the opening at the top, and the four 
 cords drawn out, letting each one lay along its inside corner of 
 the pyramid. Taking the strings loosely in the left hand and 
 having the twigs in readiness, proceed to build up the sides 
 until the opening at the top is reduced to only four or five inches 
 across. The square board will now come into play. Pass the 
 ends of the cords through the hole in its centre and rest the 
 edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking care that it is 
 the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its side, as other- 
 wise it would be likely to crack froni the pressure that is about 
 to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of hard wood, 
 and laying it over the hole in the board, and between the strings, 
 proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over it. By now 
 turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened and the 
 various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with great 
 firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of a tack 
 driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown at 
 {b). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which v/ill last 
 for many seasons. To set the affair it is necessary to cut three 
 sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The prop piece 
 is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from the tip 
 to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked twig of 
 the same length : the bait jMece is quite similar to the latter, only 
 an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at the tip. It 
 is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to receive the 
 square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait and which 
 may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of these twigs 
 may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice in searching. 
 In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise up one side of the 
 coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the short arm of the 
 
yo TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of the coop. 
 While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the bait 
 stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and pushing 
 the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch of 
 the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be 
 baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, ^'nannie berries" or 
 the like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the 
 ground directly beneath and around it. If properly set, a mere 
 peck at the corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the 
 coop will fall over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to 
 fmd two or even three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one 
 fall, and after the first momentary fright is over, they seem to 
 resign themselves to their fate and take to their confinement as 
 naturally as if they had been brought up to it. 
 
 The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great 
 improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement 
 original with the author of this work. In the old method a 
 semi-circular hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick 
 above. The ends of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower 
 back pieces of the coop, and the hoop is just large enough to 
 fit inside the opening of the coop. This rattan rests just above 
 the ground, and the spindle catches against its inside edge in 
 place of the notch in the bait stick already described, the 
 bait being scattered inside the hoop. When the bird approaches, 
 it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing it downward releases 
 the spindle and the coop falls ; but experience has shown the 
 author that it does not always secure its intruders, but as often 
 falls upon their backs and sends them off limping to regain their 
 lost senses. By the author's improvement it will be seen that the 
 whole body of the bird must be beneath the coop before the bait 
 sticks can be reached and that when properly set it is absolute- 
 ly certain to secure its victim. The author can recommend it as 
 infallible, and he feels certain that any one giving both methods 
 a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless in com- 
 parison. 
 
 THE BAT FOWLING NET. 
 
 With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common 
 use, but so far as we know it has not been utilized to any great 
 extent in this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of 
 a lantern, and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are 
 often secured. 
 
THE BAT FOWLING NET. 
 
 71 
 
 Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may 
 be constructed as follows : Procure 
 two light flexible poles, about eight 
 feet in length; to the tip of each 
 a cord should be attached, and the 
 same secured to the middle of the 
 pole, having drawn down the tip to 
 the bend, shown in our engraving. 
 The two bent ends should now be 
 attached together by a hinge of 
 leather. A piece of mosquito net- 
 ting is next in order, and it should 
 be of such a size as to cover the 
 upper bent halves of the poles, as 
 seen in the illustration — the bottom 
 edge being turned up into a bag, 
 about ten inches in depth. The 
 contrivance is now complete, and is 
 used as follows : Three persons 
 are generally required, and a dark 
 night is chosen. Hay stacks, ever- 
 greens, and thick bushes offer a 
 favorite shelter to numerous small 
 birds, and it is here that they are 
 sought by the bird-hunters. A 
 breezy night is preferable, as the 
 birds perch low, and are not so 
 easily startled by unusual sounds. 
 
 Great caution, however, is used 
 in the approach. One party holds 
 the light, which is generally a dark lantern, another takes 
 the net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which 
 to beat the bushes. The net is first held upright about a 
 foot from the bush, and the light thrown upon the back 
 of it. The bush is then moderately beaten, and the birds 
 affrighted and bewildered fly against the net, which is instantly 
 closed. The bird is thus captured, and when a full roost can be 
 discovered a large number may be taken in a single night. The 
 lantern should be closed while not in actual use, and everything 
 should be done as quietly as possible. The dark lantern in 
 itself is useful without the net. The light often so bewilders 
 the bird that it flies directly in the face of the lantern and flutters 
 to the ground, where it may be easily taken with the hand. . 
 6 
 
72 
 
 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 THE CLAP NET. 
 
 In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a 
 common resource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. 
 It may be called a " decoy " trap, from the fact that " call birds ' ' 
 are generally used in connection with it. They are placed at 
 distances around the trap, and attract the wild birds to the 
 spot by their cries. These birds are especially trained for 
 the purpose, but almost any tamed bird that chirps will 
 attract its mates from the near neighborhood, and answer the 
 purpose very well. Sometimes the '^decoys" are entirely 
 dispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. 
 This will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training 
 of a ^' decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather 
 recommend the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute 
 perfection of mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers, 
 with the use of this little whistle, is something surprising. 
 
 d. Draw roj)C. 
 ■zz^ 1. Loop, 
 
 ssss. 3iaK.^6 
 
 rrrr, tstay-ropcs. 
 
 No matter what the species of bird — whether crow, bobolink* 
 thrush or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to 
 deceive the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds 
 themselves. Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro 
 may soon learn to use the whistle to good advantage. 
 
 The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance — so large 
 that several hundred pigeons are often caught at once. It 
 is "sprung" by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching 
 for the game. The net is generally constructed as follows, and 
 may be made smaller if desired : — 
 
THE CLAP NET. 73 
 
 Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about 
 fifteen feet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden rods 
 one inch in thickness and five feet in length are next required. 
 These may be constructed of pine, ash, or any other light wood, 
 and one should be securely whipped to each end of the netting. 
 Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slate 
 pencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece one inch from 
 the tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side 
 of the net. The other extremities of the four poles should be 
 supplied, each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in 
 order — one of which is shown separate at (P). It should 
 be about eight inches in length, and three inches in width, and 
 an inch in thickness, and sharpened to a point at one end. The 
 other end should be supplied with a notch two inches in depth 
 and of such a width as will easily secure the perforated end of 
 one of the poles already described. By the use of the gimlet or 
 a red-hot nail, a hole should now be bored through the side of 
 every peg across the centre of the notch for the reception of a 
 wire pin or smooth nail. 
 
 The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trap- 
 per may thus easily carry them to his selected trapping ground. 
 This should be smooth and free from stones and irregularities. 
 Unroll the nets and spread them flatly on the ground, as seen in 
 the illustration. Let the perforated ends of the poles be inner- 
 most, and allow a space of six feet between the inner edges of 
 the nets. Draw the net flatly on the ground, and drive one of 
 the notched pegs at each of the inside corners, securing the 
 poles into the slots by the aid of the wire pins or nails. Next 
 cut four stakes eight or ten inches long. The places for these 
 may be seen by a look at our engraving. ^= Each one should be 
 inserted Jive fee^ distant from the notched peg, and exactly on a 
 line with the tftside edge of the net — one for each corner. They 
 should slant from the net in every case. To each one of these 
 stakes a stay-rope should be secured, and the other end passed 
 through the screw eye of the nearest pole, drawing the string 
 tightly, so as to stretch the net perfectly square. Next, take a 
 piece of cord, about twenty fcet^in length, and fasten it across 
 the ends of the net into the screw eyes in the poles. This is 
 the loop to which the draw-string is attached, and either end of 
 the net may be chosen for this purpose. To this loop, and a 
 little one side of the middle^ the draw-string should be fastened. 
 If secured exactly in the middlcof the loop, the two nets will 
 strike when the draw-rope is pulled, whereas when adjusted 
 
74- TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 a little to one side, the nearest net will move a trifle faster than 
 the other, and they will overlap neatly and without striking — 
 completely covering the ground between them. When the trap 
 is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelter 
 where the bird-catcher may secrete himself from view. Spread- 
 ing the bait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his 
 call birds at the proper distances, he awaits his opportunity of 
 springing his nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is 
 dotted with his game, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are 
 secured. 
 
 Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way. 
 
 The " bird whistle," already alluded to, is often used with 
 good effect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such a 
 proximity to the net as will enable them to spy the bait, after 
 which their capture is easily effected. 
 
 THE BIRD WHISTLE. 
 
 This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearly 
 shown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows : First, pro- 
 cure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circular 
 piece one inch and a quarter in diameter. Through the centre 
 of this disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. 
 A semi-circular piece of tin is next required. It should be of 
 the shape of an arc, as seen in our illustration ; its width 
 across the ends being about three-quarters 
 of an inch, and its entire length being 
 pierced with a row of fine holes. Next pro- 
 cure a piece of thin sheet India rubber or 
 gold beater's skin. Cut a strip about an 
 inch in length by half an inch in width, and 
 lay one of its long edges directly across the 
 opening in the leather disc. Fold the 
 leather in half (over the rubber), and draw 
 the latter tightly. Next lay on the arc of 
 tin in the position shown in the illustra- 
 tion, and by the aid of a fme needle and 
 thread sew it through the holes, including both leather and 
 rubber in the stitches. When this is done, the whistle is 
 complete. If the gold beater's skin is not attainable, a good 
 substitute may be found in the thin outer membrane of the 
 leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped 
 away. 
 
THE WILD GOOSE TRAi . 75 
 
 To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, 
 till side up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the front. 
 When once wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and 
 by skilful blowing, it can be made to send forth a most sur- 
 prising variety of sounds. The quack of the duck and the 
 song of the thrush may be made to follow each other in a 
 single breath, and the squeal of a pig or the neigh of a horse 
 are equally within its scope. In short, there is scarcely any 
 animal, whether bird or quadruped, the cry of which may not 
 be easily imitated by a skilful use of the prairie whistle, or, 
 indeed, as it might with propriety be called, the " menagerie 
 whistle." 
 
 THE WILD GOOSE TRAP. 
 
 In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and 
 ptarmigan flock in immense numxbers, this trap is commonly util- 
 ized. It consists merely of a large net fifty feet in length, 
 and fifteen in width, arranged on a framevvrork, and propped 
 in a slanting position by two poles, after the manner of the 
 sieve trap. It is generally set on the ice ; and the trapper, after 
 attaching his strings to the props, and sprinkling his bait at 
 the foot of the net, retires to a distance to await his chances. 
 Tame geese are often used as decoys, and sometimes the bird 
 whistle already described is used for the same purpose. For 
 the capture of the ptarmigan, the bait consists of a heap of 
 gravel. It is hard to imagine a less tempting allurement, but, as 
 the food of the birds during the winter is sapless and hard, it 
 becomes necessary for them to swallow a considerable amount 
 of gravel to promote digestion. The great depth of the snow 
 renders this commodity very scarce during the winter season ; 
 and the Indians, taking advantage of this fact, succeed in cap- 
 turing immense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that 
 simple allurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile 
 of snow, placed under the centre of the net, and the draw-string 
 is carried to some neighboring shrubbery or place of conceal- 
 ment, where the trapper can always get at it without being 
 seen by the birds under the net. 
 
 When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into 
 the adjacent woods and willows, and drive their game toward 
 the nets. This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner 
 do the birds come in sight of the heap of gravel, than they 
 fly tov/ards it en masse, and the ground beneath the net is soon 
 
76 
 
 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 covered with the hungry game. The hunter then goes to the 
 end of the line, and, with a sudden pull, hauls down the stakes : 
 the net falls over the birds, and they are prisoners. 
 
 Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single 
 sweep of the net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be 
 constructed on a reduced scale for smaller birds, if de- 
 sired. 
 
 THE TRAP CAGE. 
 
 Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and 
 most universal trap ; and, where a decoy bird is used, it is 
 particularly successful. The cage is arranged in two compart- 
 
THE TRAP CAGE. 
 
 77 
 
 ments, one above the other, — the lower one being occupied 
 by the call-birds . The making of the cage requires consider- 
 able ingenuity and much patience ; and, for the benefit of those 
 who may desire to exercise that patient ingenuity, we will sub- 
 join a few hints, which may help them along in their efforts. 
 For an ordinary cage, the height should be about one foot, 
 the broad sides the same, and the top and other two sides 
 eight inches. First cut four corner uprights. These should 
 be three-quarters of an inch square, and one foot in length. 
 Next cut a bottom board of pine, twelve inches by eight 
 inches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners, 
 cut a small cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch 
 
 square, thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive 
 the ends of the uprights, as seen at (a). Before adjusting 
 these pieces, the four sides of the boards should be pierced 
 with small holes, as is also shown in the diagram (a). These 
 may be punched with a brad-awl, and should be about half 
 an inch apart, and three-eighths of an inch from the edge of 
 the board. Each one of the uprights may then be secured 
 in place by two long brads, one being hammered each way 
 into each side of the notch. Next proceed to cut four more 
 of the square sticks. Two of these should be one foot in 
 length, and the remaining two eight inches. The corners orf 
 these should now be neatly bevelled off, so as to fit after the 
 manner of a picture-frame. They should then be attached to 
 
78 TRAPS FOR FEATHERr:) GAME. 
 
 the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner of 
 each, as seen at {b), the dotted Hues indicating the end of the 
 upright beneath. These sticks should Hkewise be pierced 
 with holes to correspond with those in the bottom board, and 
 running up and down in the direction of the wires. 
 
 The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of 
 these should be ten and a half inches in length, and the 
 other two six and a-half, and the ends should be perfectly 
 smooth. These should now be punched with holes cor- 
 responding with those above, after which they may be inserted 
 between the uprights as. seen in the engraving, and secured 
 by a brad at each end. 
 
 The trap door is shown separate at {c). The side sticks 
 should be eight inches in length, and one-half an inch square, 
 and the top and bottom sticks five inches in length. They 
 should be set in between the side sticks, and the lower one 
 should be secured about half an inch above the lower ends of 
 the uprights, as seen in the illustration. The holes should be 
 made in the side pieces, and the wire run across from side to 
 side, as shown. Annealed iron, or copper wire is best for this 
 purpose. The door should now be pivoted or hinged at the top 
 of the cage, between the long sides, in such a position as that 
 the top end shall rest on one of the narrow upper edges of the 
 cage. A stiff wire should be used for the hinge, being passed 
 through the top pieces of the cage into the lower ends of the 
 door pieces. The cage may now be wired throughout. This is 
 an easy matter, if the holes are properly made. About thirty 
 yards of the wire will be required : iron wire is generally used. 
 It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should work easily. 
 Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom 
 board through one of the holes next to the corner. Pass the 
 v/ire upward, through the centre braces, again upward through 
 the top piece and across to the opposite broad side and corre- 
 sponding hole. From this point it should pass dowmwards, 
 through centre brace, and again through the bottom. Draw the 
 wire tightly and passing it upward through the hole next to it, 
 bring it over the top of the cage and around again to the bot- 
 tom edge from which it started. Continue thus until the hinge 
 of the door is reached ; after which the wire should be passed 
 up and down on the same side and thus carried around the small 
 end of the cage until it finally meets at the door hinge on the 
 opposite side. The two halves of the cage should now be sepa- 
 rated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main illustration. This 
 
THE TRAP, CAGE. ^9 
 
 may be accomplished either by passing the wire from side to 
 side, around the base of each upright wire, or an additional 
 horizontal row of holes below the others may be punched for 
 the purpose. The door through which the call-bird is intro- 
 duced should next be made in the bottom section. There are 
 two ways of doing this : one method consists in sawing a hole 
 three inches square in the bottom board of the cage ; and a cover 
 consisting of a piece of tin is made to slide beneath the heads 
 of four tacks, two of which are placed on each side of the opening. 
 This form of door is perhaps the simplest of the two. The 
 other is shown separate at (/"), together with its mode of attach- 
 ment. 
 
 It consists of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inch 
 square, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two 
 inches in length. These are arranged into a square framework 
 by a board in each corner. Four holes are to be pierced in each 
 side piece, at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door 
 should then be wired as directed for the cage. The lowest 
 hole on each side should be left open for a separate piece of 
 wire. The cage should now receive attention. The broad side 
 is generally selected for the door. Find the seven centre wires 
 and connect them across the middle by another horizontal bit of 
 wire. This may be easily done with a pair of pincers, by com- 
 pressing a loop at each end of the wire around the two which 
 run perpendicularly at its ends. When this is performed the five 
 intermediate wires should be cut off about a quarter of an inch 
 below the horizontal wire, and the projecting tips looped back 
 over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers. The lower 
 parts of the upright wires may now be cut off close to the board. 
 We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire through 
 the holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loop 
 the ends of the projecting wire loosely around the upright wires 
 at each side. This will allow the door to sh'de easily up and 
 down. Another wire should now be interlaced downwards 
 through the centre of the door, and bent mto a nng at the top. 
 Let the door rest on the bottom of the cage, and, while in this 
 position, adjust the ring at the top around the central wire 
 directly behind it. The door is then complete, and, if properly 
 made, will look neat and work easily. 
 
 The " trap " at the top of the cage is next in order. To 
 complete this it is first necessary to interweave a stiff vfiro. loop, 
 as seen at {d). The loop should extend on the inside of the 
 lower piece of the door and about two inches below it. The 
 
5v> TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 Spring ^o\yer consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire, inter- 
 woven between the wires of the top of the cage, and those of 
 the door, while the latter is shut. The force of this will be 
 sufficient to bring down the door with a snap ; and for further 
 security a catch, such as is described in page {^^\ may be added 
 if desired. 
 
 The spindle is next required. This is shown at {g), and 
 consists of a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and 
 notched at each end. In setting the trap, the door should be 
 raised as seen in the main illustration. One of tde notches in 
 the spindle should now be caught beneath the loop and the 
 other around one of the central wires in the end of the cage. 
 The bait, consisting of a berry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be 
 either fastened to the spindle or placed beneath on the wires. 
 The call-bird having been introduced, the trap may now be left 
 to itself. If the call-bird is well trained it will not be many 
 minutes before the birds of the neighborhood will be attracted 
 to the spot by its cries. Ere long one less cautious than the 
 rest will be seen to perch upon the top of the cage. He soon 
 discovers the bait, and alighting upon the perch, throws it 
 asunder, and in an instant the trap door closes over its captive. 
 The cage is sometimes constructed double, having two compart- 
 ments beneath for call-birds, and two traps above, in general 
 resembling two of the single traps placed side by side. The 
 decoy bird is not an absolute necessity to the success of the 
 trap. Many birds are caught simply by the bait alone. The 
 trap cage, when constructed on a larger scale, is often success- 
 fully employed in the capture of the owl. In this case it is 
 baited with a live mouse or bird, and set during the evening in 
 a conspicuous place. A trap working on this principle, being 
 especially adapted to the capture of the owl, wiU be noticed 
 hereafter. 
 
 THE SPRING N^T TRAP. 
 
 Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illus- 
 tration preserkj^ one of the prettiest bird traps on record, and 
 may be made in the following manner, and by frequently refer- 
 ring to the picture, our explanation will be easily understood. 
 
 The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about 
 fifteen inches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of 
 about two inches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same 
 
THE SPRING NET TRAP. 
 
 8l 
 
 height, leavino^ a space of about three-quarters of an inch be- 
 tween them all round. A platform should now be made. Let 
 it be of such a size that it will just fit in the interior box, with a 
 very slight space all around its edge. It should then be pivot- 
 ed in the upper part of this box by two small slender pins, one 
 being driven through into its edge, at the centre of each end. 
 Let it be sensitively poised. The next thing to be done, is to 
 arrange the spindle and catch. The latter should consist of a 
 tack or small bit of wood fastened on the middle of the platform, 
 about an inch from one end, as seen both in the main illustra- 
 tion and in the diagram at {b). 
 
 The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured 
 with a leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, directly op- 
 
 posite the catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely 
 hold itself beneath the catch. When thus in its position, two 
 small plugs should next be driven into the edge of the inner 
 box, one on each side of thei spindle, thus holding it in place. 
 A glance at our illustration makes this clear. The netting and 
 " hoop " are next in order. The hoop should consist of an iron 
 wire of the diameter of common telegraph wire. 
 
 For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty- 
 eight inches will be found to answer. Before making the hoop, 
 however, its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, 
 or staples of bent wire should be driven into the bottom of the 
 box between the two walls, one in the exact middle of each 
 side. The iron wire should now be bent so as to fit round and 
 settle into the space between the boxes, letting each end rest 
 
82 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 over the screws in the bottom. It will be found that there will be 
 enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with the pin- 
 cers. These loops should be passed through the screws or rings 
 already inserted, and then pinched together ; the hinge v/ill thus 
 be made, and will appear as at {c). If properly done, they should 
 allow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box to the other, 
 and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge should 
 prove too complicated for our young readers, they may resort 
 to another method, which, although not so durable, will answer 
 very well. In this case the wire will only need to reach to the 
 exact middle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a 
 length of twenty-six inches will be exactly right. On each end 
 a short loop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now 
 fastening these loops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in 
 the place of screws, it will form a hinge v/hich will answer the 
 purpose of the more complicated one. 
 
 The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if 
 this cannot be had, any thin cloth maybe substituted. It should 
 be sewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, 
 with the hoops resting in its groove, the netting should be 
 drawn over the platform, and tacked to the bottom of the 
 groove, on its remaining half. It should rest loosely over the 
 platform to allow plenty of space for the bird. 
 
 But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have 
 mentioned the use of elastics in other varieties : they are of 
 equal use here, and should be attached to the hoop as seen at 
 (a) in the section drawing, the remaining ends being fastened to 
 the bottom of the groove, as there indicated. These elastics 
 should be placed on both sides, and stretched to such a tension 
 as will draw the hoop quickly from one side to the other. 
 
 It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to 
 the opposite end, tucking the netting into the groove ; lower 
 the spindle over it, resting it between the two little plugs, and 
 securing its end beneath the catch on the platform. If the bait, 
 
A SIMPLER NET TRAP. 
 
 83 
 
 consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be now 
 sprinkled on the platform, the trap is ready for its feathered 
 victim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on either 
 side of this poised platform will throw the catch from the end 
 of the spindle, and release the hoop and the platform in an in- 
 stant is covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky little 
 bird may have chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty 
 little trap, and will well repay the trouble of making it. 
 
 A SIMPLER NET TRAP. 
 
 Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of 
 bird traps of various kinds, but often the ingenuity has been 
 misplaced, and the result has been so complicated as to mar its 
 usefulness for practical purposes. The examples of net traps 
 presented in this volume are so simple that the merest tyro can 
 readily understand them. What can be more so than the pres- 
 ent example, and yet it is as sure in its effect, and stcrer than 
 those other varieties of more complicated construction. One 
 necessary element in a trap of any kind is, that the bearings are 
 
 slight and that they spring easily. To obtain this requisite it 
 is necessary to overcome friction as much as possible, using 
 only a small number of pieces, and having as few joints and 
 hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The present variety 
 possesses advantages on this account. It is constructed some- 
 what on the principle of the ordinary steel t^ap, and also re- 
 sembles in other respects the one we have just described, al- 
 though much simpler. We give only a section drawing, as this 
 will be sufficient. The long side of a flat board of about eight by 
 sixteen inches is shown at {a) ; {b) indicates the loops of a bent 
 wire, to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just de- 
 
84 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 scribed, the loops being fastened to the board as in the other 
 variety ; {g) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in 
 length and half an inch in width. It should be tacked on to the 
 middle of the one end of the board and project about a half 
 inch above the surface. To the top of this the spindle [c) 
 should be attached by a leather or staple hinge. The 
 spindle should be of light pine, five inches in length and a 
 quarter of an inch square, bevelled ; on the under side of one 
 end {d) is the catch or bait piece, and should be whittled out of 
 a shingle or pine stick of the shape shown, the width being 
 about a half an inch or less. One side should be supphed with 
 a slight notch for the reception of the spindle, and the other 
 should project out two or three inches, being covered on the 
 top with a little platform of pasteboard, tin, or thin wood either 
 glued or tacked in place. To attach this piece to the main 
 board, two small wire staples may be used, one being inserted 
 into the bottom end of the piece and the other being hooked 
 through it, and afterward tacked to the bottom of the trap, thus 
 forming a loop hinge. Another method is to make a hole 
 through the lower tip of the bait piece by the aid of a red-hot 
 wire, as seen at (^), afterwards inserting a pin and overlapping 
 its ends with two staples driven into the bottom board, as shown 
 at {e). In our last mentioned net trap the spring power con- 
 sisted of rubber elastic, and the same may be used in this 
 case, if desired, but by way of variety we here introduce another 
 form of spring which may be successfully employed in the con- 
 struction of traps of various kinds. It is shown at {o) and con- 
 sists merely of a piece of tempered hoop iron, so bent as to act 
 with an upward pressure. It should be about three inches long 
 by half an inch wide. About three-quarters of an inch should 
 be allowed for the two screws by which it is to be attached to 
 the board. The rest should be bent upward and thus tempered 
 by first heating almost to redness, and then cooling in cold 
 water. 
 
 One of these springs should be fastened to the board on 
 each side, directly under the wire and quite near the hinge, in 
 the position shown in the main drawing. Now draw back the 
 net, lower the spindle and catch its extremity in the notch of 
 the bait piece, and the trap is set as in our illustration. Sprinkle 
 the bait on the platform, and lay the machine on the ground 
 where birds are known to frequent ; and it is only a matter of a 
 few hours or perhaps minutes, before it will prove its efficacy. 
 In order to prevent the bird from raising the wire and there bv 
 
THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP. 85 
 
 escaping, it is well to fasten a little tin catch (/) at the end of the 
 board. This will spring over the wire and hold it in its place. 
 
 THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP. 
 
 The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, 
 somewhat similar to the one we have just described, in its man- 
 ner of working. 
 
 Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one 
 to the edge of the other, as represented in our engraving. A 
 stout wire is the next requisite. It should he about thirty inches 
 long, and bent either into a curve or into two corners, making 
 three equal sides. Each end of the wire should then be bent 
 into a very small loop for the hinge. On to this wire the net- 
 ting should then be secured as in the two previous examples, 
 after which the ends of the wire may be tied with string or 
 hinged on wire staples into the angle of the two boards, as seen 
 in our illustration. Allow the wire now to lie flat on the bottom 
 board, and then proceed to tack the netting around the edges of 
 the upright board. Two elastics should next be fastened to the 
 wire on each side, securing their loose ends to the bottom of the 
 trap. They should be tightly drawn so as to bring the wire 
 down with a snap. The spindle of this trap should be about 
 eight or nine inches long, square and slender, — the lower end 
 being flattened, and the upper end secured to the top edge of the 
 upright board by a hinge of leather or string. An excellent 
 hinge may be made with a piece of leather an inch and a half 
 long, by half an inch in width, one half of the length being tied 
 around the end of the spindle, and the other tacked on to the 
 upper edge of the board. 
 
 The platform is given by itself at (a) in the same picture. It 
 may be made of very thin wood — cigar box wood, for instance, 
 or even thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The 
 piece which is hinged into the angle of the boards should be 
 about three inches in length ; the platform piece ought not to be 
 more than four inches square, and the upright piece only long 
 enough to reach the tip of the spindle when the platform is 
 raised, as shown in our engraving. The hinge piece should be 
 cut to an edge on that end where the leath'er is fastened, the 
 opposite end being bevelled off in order that the platform may 
 rest and be tacked or glued firmly upon it. The diagram (a) 
 will make this all very clear. 
 
 When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the 
 
S6 
 
 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible, and 
 lower the spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright 
 stick on the platform. If the trap is properly constructed, the 
 pressure of the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up 
 as seen in our illustration. The upright stick on the back of the 
 platform should never be more than an inch and a half from the 
 back of the trap. If need be, a slight notch may be made in the 
 end of the spindle and a small tack driven into the back of the 
 upright stick to correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under 
 the head of the tack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the 
 
 right position. But it should be carefully tested before setting, 
 to see that it springs easily. 
 
 When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a 
 little also on the bottom of the trap and on the ground directly 
 around it. The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, 
 and alighting on the trap are misled, and the slightest peck or 
 pressure on the platform where the bait is most bounteously 
 spread brings down the wire and net with a snajf, and the little 
 creature is secured without harm. 
 
 Our next illustration shows another method of constructing 
 the platform. It should be about three or four inches square. 
 
THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP. 
 
 87 
 
 and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece 
 should be fastened. This piece, as will be seen in our engrav- 
 ing, should be cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of 
 being secured to the platform by two brads, the tip being cut 
 to a point. The total length of this piece should not be over 
 two and a half inches. When tacked in place, a third brad 
 
 should be inserted between 
 the other two and exactly in 
 the centre of the side of the 
 platform. This latter brad is 
 to act as the pivot, or hinge, 
 and should project about a 
 quarter of an inch, as seen at 
 {a). On the opposite edge of 
 the platform another larger 
 brad should be driven, having 
 its end filed to a blunt point, 
 as in {b). If the filing would 
 be too tedious, a plug of hard 
 wood of the required shape 
 would answer every purpose. 
 The upright props which sup- 
 port the platform should be 
 cut of thin wood . Let one be an inch and a half long and half 
 an inch wide, the other being an inch, in length. Each should 
 have one end whittled to a point, which wn'll admit of its being 
 inserted in a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap. These 
 gimlet holes should be made at least half an inch in depth. 
 Make the first at about an inch or so from the back of the trap. 
 Into this insert the shorter pieces, broadside front. Lay the 
 pivot brad of the platform on the top of this piece and insert 
 over it a small wire staple, as seen at {a). Elevate the platform 
 evenly and determine the spot for the other gimlet hole, which 
 should be directly beneath the point of the filed brad. Be sure 
 that it is in the middle of the board, so that the platform may 
 set squarely, and be perfectly parallel with the sides. Insert the 
 remaining prop in its place, and the platform is complete. The 
 overhanging spindle now requires a little attention. This 
 should be whittled off on each side, bringing it to a point at the 
 tip. On each side of the spindle a long plug should then be 
 driven into the back piece, as our illustration shows. These 
 should be far enough apart to allow the spindle to pass easily 
 between them. The setting of the trap is plainly shown in our 
 
 7 
 
 Method 2. 
 
88 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is 
 caught finely on the tip of the catch-piece. The blunt point at 
 the opposite end of the platform should have a slight hollow 
 made for it in the prop against which it presses. If the platform 
 be now strewn with bait, the little machine is ready. It is cer- 
 tainly very simple and will be found very effective. 
 
 THE BOX OWL TRAP. 
 
 The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly 
 an odd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance which 
 has been successfully used for that purpose. 
 
 The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in 
 our engraving, and well ventilated with holes, as indicated. 
 (This ventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in 
 all traps.) Having made or selected a suitable box — say, four- 
 teen or more inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a 
 hinge~ — proceed to fasten on the outside of the lid a loop of stiff 
 wire, bent in the shape shown at {e\ This may be fastened to 
 the cover by means of small staples, or even tacks, and should 
 project over the edge about two inches. When this is done, the 
 lid should be raised to the angle shown in our illustration, and 
 the spot where the end of the wire loop touches the back of the 
 box should be marked and a slit cut tlirough the wood at this 
 ]:)lace, large enough for the angle of the loop to pass through. 
 Two elastics should now be fastened to the inside of the box, 
 being secured to the bottom at the side, and the other to the 
 edge of the cover, as seen in the illustration. They should be 
 sufficiently strong to draw down the cover quickly. The perch, 
 or spindle, should consist of a light stick of wood, as shown at 
 (^,) one end provided with a slight notch, and the other fastened 
 to the inside of the front of the box by a string or leather hinge, 
 (^,) keeping the notch on the 7ipper side of the stick. It will be 
 now seen that by opening the cover, until the loop enters 
 through the groove, and by then hooking the notch in the spin- 
 dle nnder the loop as seen at (^) the trap will be set, and if prop- 
 erly done it will be found that avery slight weight on the spindle 
 will set it free from the loop and let the cover down with 
 swiftness. 
 
 To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be 
 applied to the front edge of the box, as shown in the illustra- 
 tion. A piece of tin two inches in length by a half an inch in 
 breadth will answer for this purpose. One end should be bent 
 
BIRD AND WILD FOWL TRAPS. 
 
 89 
 
 down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other at- 
 tached by two tacks, to the edge of the box, in the position 
 shown in the cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the 
 escape of whatever bird, large or small, the trap may chance to 
 secure. It is a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the 
 elastics might be torn asunder and the lid thereby easily raised. 
 This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is par- 
 ticularly designed for a dirdtra.p, it is well to sprinkle the bot- 
 tom of the box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as 
 
 crickets, grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very apt to jump 
 out, and it may be well to fasten one or two of them to the bot- 
 tom with a pin through the body, just behind the head. 
 
 There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively 
 on insects ; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, there is 
 scarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A 
 bird on approaching this trap will almost irresistibly alight on 
 the perch, and if not 2X firsts it is generally sure to do so before 
 long.^ If desired, a pasteboard platform may be fastened on the 
 
go TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered upon 
 it. This will act in the same manner, and might, perhaps, be a 
 trifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experi- 
 ment upon. 
 
 We have given this variety the name of " owl-trap," because 
 it may be used with success in this direction. When set for 
 this purpose, it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or 
 bird, either fastened to the bottom of the trap, if a bird, or set 
 in with the trap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the 
 preferable bait, as it may be easily fastened to the bottom of the 
 box by a string, and as a general thing is more sure to attract 
 the attention of the owl by its chirping. 
 
 The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the 
 neighborhood where the owls in the night are heard to " hoot." 
 The chances are that the box will contain an owl on the follow- 
 ing morning. 
 
 This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if 
 our young reader could only catch one, and find rats and mice 
 enough to keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish 
 the number of rats in his neighborhood, but he would realize a 
 great deal of enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of 
 the bird. 
 
 Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, raw 
 meat will answer equally well. The bird should either be kept 
 in a cage or inclosure and in the latter case, its wings will re- 
 quire to be clipped. 
 
 THE BOX BIRD TRAP. 
 
 Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the 
 foregoing. Our engraving represents the arrangement of the 
 parts as the trap appears when set. 
 
 The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar 
 box has been used with excellent success, and for small birds 
 is just the thing. The cover of the box in any case should 
 work on a hinge of some sort. The trap is easily made. The 
 first thing to be done is to cut an upright slot, about two inches 
 in length, through the centre of the backboard, commencing at 
 the upper edge. To the inside centre edge of the cover a small 
 square strap, about four inches in length, should then be se- 
 cured. It should be so adjusted as that one-half shall project to- 
 ward the inside of the box, as seen in the illustration, and at the 
 same time pass easily through the slot beneath where the cover 
 
THE PENDENT BOX TRAP. 
 
 91 
 
 is closed. The lid should now be supplied with elastics as de- 
 scribed in the foregoing. Next in order comes the bait stick. 
 Its shape is clearly shown in our illustration, and it may be 
 either cut in one piece or consist of two parts joined together 
 
 at the angle. To the long arm the bait should be attached and 
 the upright portion should be just long enough to suspend the 
 cover in a position on a line with the top of the box. The trap 
 may now be set, as seen in our illustration, and should be sup- 
 plied with the necessary tin catch, described in the foregoing. 
 
 THE PENDENT BOX TRAP. 
 
 This invention is original with the author of this work, and 
 when properly made and set will prove an excellent device for 
 the capture of small birds. 
 
 The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown 
 in our illustration. A thin wooden box is the first requisite, it 
 should be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and sup- 
 plied with a close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides 
 should then be perforated with a few auger holes for purposes 
 of ventilation. 
 
 Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached 
 to the cover and box, one on each side, as shown at (a.) They 
 should be drawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover 
 firmly against the box. 
 
 The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick, which 
 differs in construction from any other described in this book. 
 
 It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven 
 
92 
 
 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 inches or so in length, depending of course upon the size of the 
 box. 
 
 It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat 
 cut, the longer part being six inches in length; This piece 
 should be attached to the back board of the box by a small 
 string and a tack, as shown at (c), its end being bluntly pointed. 
 Its attachment should be about five inches above the bottom 
 board, and in the exact centre of the width of the back. 
 
 Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a 
 berry or other fruit, should be secured, and the further 
 extremity of the stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. 
 The trap is now easily set. Raise the lid and lift the long 
 stick to the position given in the illustration. Adjust the flat 
 end of the bait stick ag-inst that of the former, and allow the 
 
 pressure of the lid to bear against the blunt point of the short 
 stick at (d), as shown in the illustration, a straight dent being 
 made in the cover to receive it, as also in the back of the box 
 for the other piece. If properly constructed, this pressure will 
 be sufficient to hold the sticks end to end, ar^ our engraving 
 
THE HAWK TRAP. 
 
 93 
 
 represents, and the trap is thus set. The slightest weight on 
 the false perch thus made will throw the parts asunder, and the 
 cover closes with a snap. 
 
 The greatest difficulties in constructing the trap will be 
 founa in the bearings of the ]m\t sticks (d), the ends of which 
 must be perfectly flat and join snugly, in order to hold them- 
 selves together. The box may now be suspended in a tree by 
 the aid of a string at the top. The first bird that makes bold 
 enough to-alight on the perch is a sure captive, and is secured 
 without harm. If desired, the elastic may be attached to the 
 inside of the cover, extending to the back of the box, as seen 
 in the initial at the head of this chapter. If the elastic in 
 any event shows tendencies toward relaxing, the tin catch de- 
 scribed on page SS should be adjusted to the lower edge of 
 the box to insure capture. 
 
 THE HAWK TRAP. 
 
 Our illustration represents a hawk in a sad plight. The 
 memory of a recent feast has attracted it to the scene of many of 
 
94 
 
 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 its depredations : but the ingenious farmer has at last outwitted 
 his feathered foe and brought its sanguinary exploits to a 
 timely end. This trap is a "Yankee " invention and has been 
 used with great success in many instances where the hawk has 
 become a scourge to the poultry yard. The contrivance is 
 clearly shown in an illustration, consisting merely of a piece of 
 plank two feet square, set with stiff perpendicular pointed 
 wires. 
 
 This affair was set on the ground in a conspicuous place, the 
 board covered with grass, and the nice fat Poland hen which 
 was tied to the centre proved a morsel too tempting for the 
 hawk to resist. Hence the " fell swoop " and the fatal conse- 
 quences depicted in our illustration. The owl has also been 
 successfully captured by the same device. 
 
 THE WILD DUCK NET. 
 
 Following will be found two examples of traps in very com- 
 mon use for the capture of wild ducks, and in the region of 
 Chesapeake bay, immense numbers of the game are annually 
 taken by their aid. The first is the well known net trap, so 
 extensively used in nearly all countries, both for the capture of 
 
 various kinds of fish as well as winged game. Our illustration 
 gives a very clear idea of the construction of the net, and an 
 elaborate description is almost superfluous. It consists of a 
 graduated series of hoops covered by a net work. From each 
 a converging net extends backward ending in a smaller hoop 
 which is held in position by cords extending therefrom to the 
 
THE HOOK TRAP. 
 
 95 
 
 next larger hoop. The depth of these converging nets should 
 extend backward about three or four feet from the large hoop, 
 and the distance between these latter should be about five feet. 
 The length of the net should be about twenty feet, terminating 
 in a " pound " or netted enclosure, as seen in the illustration. 
 The trap maybe set on shore or in the water as seen. " Decoy " 
 birds are generally used, being enclosed in the pound. 
 
 When set on land the bait consisting of corn or other grain 
 should be spread about the entrance and through the length of 
 the net. 
 
 It is remarkable that a duck which so easily finds its way 
 within the netted enclosure, should be powerless to make its 
 escape, but such seems to be the fact, and even a single hoop 
 with its reflex net, has been known to secure a number of the 
 game. 
 
 THE HOOK TRAP 
 
 Our second example is one which we are almos*. ccmpted to 
 exclude on account of its cruelty, but as our volume is especi- 
 ally devoted to traps of all kinds and as this is a variety in very 
 common use, we feel bound to give it a passing notice. Our 
 illustration fully conveys its painful mode of capture, and a 
 beach at low water is generally the scene of the slaughter. 
 A long stout cord is first stretched across the sand and secured 
 
96 
 
 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 to a peg at each end. To tliis shorter lines are attached at 
 intervals, each one being supplied with a fish hook baited with a 
 piece of the tender rootstock of a certain water reed, of which 
 the ducks are very fond. The main cord and lines are then 
 imbedded in the sand, the various baits only appearing on the 
 surface, and the success of the device is equal to its cruelty. 
 
 THE "fool's cap" TRAP. 
 
 Of all oddities of the trap kind, there is, perhaps, no one more 
 novel and comical than the " Fools's Cap " crow-trap, which 
 forms the subject of our present illustration. Crows are by 
 
 no means casyofcai> 
 ture in any form of 
 trap, and they are 
 generally as coy and 
 as shrcv.'d in their ap- 
 proach to a trap as 
 they are bold in their 
 familiarity and disre- 
 spect for the sombre 
 scarecrows in the 
 corn field. But this 
 simple device will of- 
 ten mislead the smart- 
 est and shrewdest 
 crow, and make a per- 
 fect fool of him, for 
 it is hard to imagine 
 a more ridiculous 
 sight than is fur- 
 nished by the strange 
 antics and evolutions 
 _^ _^ of a crov/thus cmbar- 
 
 — -'^1 ^'^ -f^"^'" ~ rassedwith his head 
 
 '''^'^-' imbedded in a cap 
 
 which he finds impos- 
 sible to remove, and which he in vain endeavors to shake off by 
 all sorts of gymnastic performance. The secret of the little 
 contrivance is easily told. The cap consists of a little cone of 
 stiff paper, about three or four inches in diameter at the opening. 
 This is imbedded in the ground, up to its edge, and a few 
 j^rains of corn are dropped into it. The inside edre of the 
 
BIRD LIME. 97 
 
 .openinf^ is then smeared with <^/>rt?-///;/^, a substance of which 
 we shall speak hereafter. 
 
 The crow, on endeavoring to reach the corn, sinks his bill so 
 deep in tlie cone as to bring the gummy substance in contact with 
 the feathers of his head and neck, to which it adheres in spite 
 of all possible efforts on the part of the bird to throw it off. 
 
 The cones may be made of a brownish-colored paper if they 
 are to be placed in the earth, but of white paper when inserted 
 in the snow. It is an excellent plan to insert a few of these 
 cones in the fresh corn hills at planting season, as the crows 
 are always on the watch at this time, and will be sure to partake 
 of the tempting morsels, not dreaming of the result. The 
 writer has often heard of this ingenious device, and has read of 
 its being successfully employed in many instances, but he has 
 never yet had an opportunity of testing it himself. He will 
 leave it for his readers to experiment upon for themselves. 
 
 BIRD LIME. 
 
 This substance so called to which we have above alluded, and 
 which is sold in our bird marts under that name, is a viscid, 
 sticky preparation, closely resembling a very thick and gummy 
 varnish. It is astonishingly " sticky," and the slightest quantity 
 
 
 between the fingers will hold them together with remarkable 
 tenacity. What its effect must be on the feathers of a bird can 
 easily be imagined. 
 
 . This preparation is put up in boxes of different sizes, and may 
 be had from any of the taxidermiiits or bird-fanciers in any of 
 
qS traps for feathered game. 
 
 our large towns or cities. Should a home made article be 
 required, an excellent substitute may be prepared from the 
 inner bark of the "slippery elm." This should be gathered in 
 the spring or early summer, cut into very small pieces or 
 scraped into threads, and boiled in water sufficient to cover 
 them until the pieces are soft and easily mashed. By this time 
 the water will be pretty much boiled down, and the whole mass 
 should then be poured into a mortar and beaten up, adding at 
 the same time a few grains of wheat. When done, the paste 
 thus made may be put into an earthen vessel and kept. When 
 required to be used, it should be melted or softened over the 
 fire, adding goose grease or linseed oil, instead of water. When 
 of the proper consistency it may be spread upon sticks or twigs 
 prepared for it, and which should afterwards be placed in the 
 locality selected for the capture of the birds. 
 
 An excellent bird-lime may be made also from plain linseed- 
 oil, by boiling it down until it becomes thick and gummy. Thick 
 varnish either plain or mixed with oil, but always free from 
 alcohol, also answers the purpose very well. The limed twigs 
 may be either set in trees or placed on poles and stuck in the 
 ground. 
 
 If any of our readers chance to become possessed of an owl, 
 they may look forward to grand success with their limed twigs. 
 It is a well known fact in natural history that the owl is the 
 universal enemy of nearly all our smaller birds. And when, 
 as often happens, a swarm of various birds are seen flying 
 frantically from limb to limb, seeming to centre on a particular 
 tree, and filling the air with their loud chirping, it may be safely 
 concluded that some sleepy owl has been surprised in his day- 
 dozing, and is being severely pecked and punished for his nightly 
 depredations. 
 
 Profiting from this fact, the bird catcher often utilizes the owl 
 with great success. Fastening the bird in the crotch of some 
 tree, he adjusts the limed twigs on all sides, even covering the 
 neighboring branches with the gummy substance. No sooner is 
 the owl spied by one bird than the cry is set up, and a score of 
 foes are soon at hand, ready for battle. One by one they alight 
 on the beguiling twigs, and one by one find themselves held fast. 
 The more they flutter the more powerless they become, and the 
 more securely are they held. In this way many valuable and 
 rare birds are often captured. 
 
THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP. 99 
 
 THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP. 
 
 One of the most ingenious uses to which bird lime is said to 
 have been appHed with success, is in the capture of humming- 
 birds. The lime in this instance is made simply by chewing a 
 few grains of wheat in the mouth until a gum is formed. It is 
 said that by spreading this on the inside opening of the long 
 white lily or trumpet-creeper blossom, the capture of a hum- 
 ming-bird is almost certain, and he will never be able to leave 
 the flower after once fairly having entered the opening. There 
 can be no doubt but that this is perfectly practicable, and we 
 recommend it to our readers. 
 
 The object in making the bird-lime from wheat consists in 
 the fact that this is more easily removed from the feathers than 
 the other kinds. 
 
 We would not wish our readers to infer from this that a hum- 
 ming-bird might be captured or kept alive, for of all birds, 
 they are the most fragile and delicate, and would die of fright^ 
 if from nothing else. They are chiefly used for ornamental 
 purposes, and may be caught in a variety of ways. A few silk 
 nooses hung about the flowers where the birds are seen to 
 frequent, will sometimes succeed in ensnaring their tiny forms. 
 
 The blow-gun is often used with good success, and the con- 
 cussion from a gun loaded simply with powder, and aimed in 
 the direction of the bird, will often stun it so that it will fall to 
 the ground. If a strong stream of water be forced upon the 
 little creature, as it is fluttering from flower to flower, the result 
 is the same, as the feathers become so wet that it cannot fly. 
 
BOOK IV. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 
 
 THE COMMON BOX TRAP. 
 
 HE following chapter includes a variety 
 of traps which have not been covered 
 by any of the previous titles. Several 
 novelties are contained in the list, and 
 also a number of well known inventions. 
 There is probably no more familiar 
 example of the trap kind than that of 
 the common wooden box-trap, better 
 known, perhaps, by our country boys 
 as the rabbit-trap. A glance at our il- 
 lustration, will readily bring it to mind, and easily explain its 
 working to those not particularly acquainted with it. These traps 
 maybe made of any size, but, being usually employed in catching 
 rabbits, require to be made quite large. They should be made 
 of hard seasoned wood — oak or chestnut is the best — and of 
 slabs about an inch in thickness. The pieces may be of the 
 following dimensions : let the bottom board be 204-7 in- ; side 
 board, 2oH-9in. ; lid board 19-I-7 in., and the end piece of lid 
 7 in. square. 
 
 The tall end piece should be about 16 inches high by 7 broad. 
 Let this be sharpened on the upper end, as seen in the engraving, 
 and furnished with a slight groove on the summit, for the reception 
 of the cord. Now to put the pieces together. 
 
 Nail the two sides to the edge of the bottom board, and fit in 
 between them the high end piece, securing that also, with nails 
 through the bottom and side boards. Next nail the lid board 
 on to the small, square end piece, and fit the lid thus made 
 neatly into its place. 
 
 To make the hinge for the lid, two small holes should be bored 
 through the sides of the trap, about four inches from the tall 
 end, and half an inch from the upper edge of each board. Let 
 8 
 
I04 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 
 
 small nails now be driven through these holes into the edge of 
 the lid, and it will be found to work freely upon them. 
 
 The principal part of the trap is now made, but what remains 
 to be done is of great importance. The ^' spindle " is a ne- 
 cessary feature in nearly all traps, and the box-trap is useless 
 without it. In this case it should consist merely of a round 
 stick of about the thickness of a lead pencil, and we will say, 7 
 or 8 in. in length. One end should be pointed and the other 
 should have a small notch cut in it, as seen in the separate 
 drawing of the stick. The spindle being ready, we must 
 
 ^^^^m' 
 
 have some place to put it. Another hole should be bored 
 through the middle of the high end piece, and about 4 in. 
 from the bottom. This hole should be large enough to allow 
 the spindle to pass easily through it. If our directions have 
 been carefully followed, the result will now show a complete, 
 closefitting trap. 
 
 In setting the trap there are two methods commonly em- 
 ployed, as shown at a and d. The string, in either case, must be 
 fastened to the end of the lid. 
 
 In the first instance (a) the lid is raised and made fast by the 
 brace, holding itself beneath the tip of the projecting spindle, 
 and a nail or plug driven into the wood by the side of the hole. 
 
COMMON BOX TRAP. 105 
 
 Of course, when the spindle is drawn or moved from the inside 
 the brace will be let loose and the lid will drop. 
 
 In the other method {b) the spindle is longer, and projects 
 several inches on the outside of the hole. The brace is also 
 longer, and catches itself in the notch on the end of the spindle, 
 and another shght notch in the board, a few inches above the 
 hole. 
 
 When the bait is touched from the inside, the brace easily 
 flies out and the hd falls, securing its victim. Either way is 
 sure to succeed, but if there is any preference it is for the 
 former {a). It is a wise plan to have a few holes through the 
 trap in different places, to allow for ventilation, and it may be 
 found necessary to line the cracks with tin, as sometimes the 
 
 v^:i>-^mv^^jg^ 
 
 enclosed creature might otherwise gnaw through and make 
 its escape. If there is danger of the lid not closing tightly 
 when sprung, a stone may be fastened upon it to insure that 
 result. 
 
 This trap is usually set for rabbits, and these dimensions are 
 especially calculated with that idea. Rabbits abound in all our 
 woods and thickets, and may be attracted by various baits. An 
 apple is most generally used. The box-trap may be made of 
 smaller dimensions, and set in trees for squirrels with very good 
 success. 
 
 There is still another well known form of this trap represented 
 in the tail piece at the end of this section. The box is first 
 constructed of the shape already given, only having the lid piece 
 
io6 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 
 
 nailed firmly in the top of the box. The tall end piece is also 
 done away with. The whole thing thus representing a simple 
 oblong box with one end open. Two slender cleats should be 
 nailed on each side of this opening, on the interior of the box, 
 to form a groove into which a square end board may easily slide 
 up and down, the top board being slightly sawn away to receive 
 it. An upright stick should then be erected on the top centre 
 of the box, in the tip of which a straight stick should be pivoted, 
 working easily therein, like the arms of a balance. To one end 
 of this balance, the end board should be adjusted by two screw 
 eyes, and to the other the string with spindle attached. By now 
 lowering the spindle to its place, the further end of the balance 
 will be raised and with it the end board, and on the release of 
 the spindle the board will fall. This plan is quite commonly 
 adopted but we rather prefer the former. But as each has its 
 advantages we present them both. 
 
 ANOTHER BOX TRAP. 
 
 This works afterthe manner of the ordinary wire rat-trap ; our 
 illustration explains itself. 
 
 The box should be of the shape there shown, with one of its 
 end pieces arranged on hinges so as to fall freely. An elastic 
 
 should be fastened from the inside of this end to the inner 
 surface of the top of the box, to insure its closing. If desired, 
 an elastic may be adjusted at the side as shown in the cut and a 
 catch piece of stout tin should be attached to the bottom of 
 the trap to secure the lid when it falls. A small hole should 
 then be bored in the top, near the further end of the trap, and 
 
FIGURE FOUR TRAP. 
 
 107 
 
 the spindle, having a notch on its upper end, passed through the 
 hole thus made. The top of the spindle is shown at {a). It 
 should be held in its place by a small plug or pin through it, 
 below the surface of the box. A slender stick, long enough to 
 reach and catch beneath the notch in the spindle should now be 
 fastened to the lid and the trap is complete. It may be baited with 
 cheese, bread, and the hke, and if set for squirrels, an apple 
 answers every purpose. 
 
 When constructed on a larger and heavier scale it may be used 
 for the capture of rabbits and animals of a similar size, but for 
 this purpose the previous variety is preferable 
 
 THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP. 
 
 One of the most useful as well as the most ancient mventions 
 in the way of traps is the common Figure Four Trap^ which 
 forms the subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingenious 
 tontrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks. 
 It possesses great advantages in the fact that it maybe used in a 
 
 variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried 
 by the young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illus- 
 tration shows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight 
 touch at the bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box 
 may be substituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be 
 
I08 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 
 
 captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at 
 a. b. and c. Of course, there is no regular size for them, as this 
 would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are 
 designed to be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions 
 will answer very well. The sticks should all be square, and 
 about half an inch in thickness. The bait-stick, {a) should be 
 about nine or ten inches in length, one end being pointed and 
 the other furnished with a notch, as indicated. The upright 
 stick, {b) should be a little shorter, one end being whittled to a 
 rather sharp edge. At about three or four inches from the 
 other end, and on the side next to that whittled, a square notch 
 should be cut. This should be about a third of an inch in depth 
 and half an inch in width, being so cut as exactly to receive the 
 bait-stick without holding it fast. The remaining stick {c) should 
 have a length of about seven or eight inches, one end being 
 whittled, as in the last, to an edge, and the other end furnished 
 with a notch on the same side of the stick. 
 
 ^^ 
 
 TL 
 
 «^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 When these are finished, the trap may be set in the followmg 
 manner : Place the upright stick, {b) with its pointed end upper- 
 most. Rest the notch of the slanting stick, {c) on the summit of 
 the upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding 
 the stick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch 
 in the bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and 
 fitting it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be 
 made to catch and hold itself in position. The bait should 
 always project beneath the stone. In case a box is used instead 
 of a stone, the trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its 
 edge. Where the ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the 
 upright stick on a chip or small fiat stone, as otherwise it is apt 
 to sink into the earth by degrees and spring by itself. 
 
 When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and 
 the bait, generally an apple, or " nub " of corn is seldom more 
 than touched when the stone falls. 
 
THE ''DOUBLE ENDER. 
 
 109 
 
 THE "DOUBLE ENDER." 
 
 This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a 
 great favorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching. 
 It was constructed of four boards two feet in length by nine 
 inches in breath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form 
 a long square box. Each end was supphed with a heavy lid 
 working on two hinges. To each of these lids a light strip of 
 wood was fastened, the length of each being sufficient to reach 
 nearly to the middle of the top of the box, as seen in the illus- 
 tration. At this point a small auger hole was then made downward 
 through the board. A couple of inches of string was next tied 
 to the tip of each stick and supplied with a large knot at the end. 
 The trap was then set on the simple principle of which there 
 arc so many examples throughout the pages of this work. The 
 
 .YNfy-"'- 
 
 knots were lowered through the auger hole and the insertion of 
 the bait stick inside the box held them in place. The edge of 
 the bottom board on each end of the trap should be supplied 
 with a tin catch such as is described on page 88 in order 
 to hold the lid in place after it has fallen. No matter from which 
 end the bait is approached it is no sooner touched than both ends 
 fall and " buiuiy^ " is prisoner. Like many other of our four-footed 
 game, the rabbit manifests a peculiar liking for salt and may be 
 regularly attracted to a given spot by its aid. A salted cotton 
 string is sometimes extended several yards from the trap for the 
 purpose of leading them to it, but this seems a needless precaution, 
 as the rabbit is seldom behindhand in discerning a tempting bait 
 when it is within his reach. 
 
no MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 
 
 THE SELF SETTING TRAP. 
 
 One of the oldest known principles ever embodied in the form 
 of a trap is that which forms the subject of the accompanying 
 illustration. It is very simple in construction, sure in its action ; 
 and as its name implies, resets itself after each intruder has been 
 captured. 
 
 It is well adapted for Rabbits and Coons and when made on a 
 small scale, maybe successfully employed in taking rats and mice. 
 It is also extensively used in the capture of the Mink and 
 Muskrat, being set beneath the water, near the haunts of the 
 animals and weighted by a large stone. Of course the size of 
 the box will be governed by the dimensions of the game for 
 which it is to be set. Its general proportions should resemble 
 those of the illustration, both ends being open. A small gate, 
 consisting of a square piece of wood supplied with a few stiff 
 wires is then pivoted inside each opening, so as to work freely 
 and fall easily when raised. The bait is fastened inside at the 
 centre of the box. The animal, in quest of the bait, finds an easy 
 entrance, as the wires lift at a slight pressure, but the exit after 
 the gate has closed is so difficult that escape is almost beyond 
 the question. 
 
 The wires should be so stiff as to preclude the possibility of 
 them being bent by struggles of the imprisoned creature in his 
 
THE DEAD-FALL. Ill 
 
 efforts to escape, and to insure further strength it is advisable to 
 connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of finer wire, 
 twisted about each. 
 
 The simultaneous capture of two rabbits in a trap of this kind 
 is a common occurrence. 
 
 THE DEAD-FALL. 
 
 In strolling through the woods and on the banks of 
 streams in the country, it is not an uncommon thing to stum- 
 ble against a contrivance resembling in general appearance 
 our next illustration. Throughout New England, the " dead- 
 fall," as this is called, has always been a most popular favorite 
 among trappers, young and old ; and there is really no better 
 rour^h r.nd ready trap for large game. To entrap a fox by 
 any device is no easy matter ; but the writer remembers one 
 
 case where Reynard was outwitted, and the heavy log of the 
 " dead-fall " put a speedy end to his existence. The trap was 
 set in a locality where the fox had made himself a nuisance by 
 repeated nocturnal invasions among the poultry, and the bait 
 was cleverly calculated to decoy him. A live duck was tied 
 within the pen, and the morsel proved too tempting for him to 
 resist. Thrusting his head beneath the suspended log, in order 
 to reach his prey, he thus threw down the slender framework 
 of support ; and the log, falling across his neck, put him to death. 
 Our illustration gives a very correct idea of the general 
 construction of the " dead-fall," although differing slightly in 
 its mode of setting from that usually employed. 
 
112 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 
 
 A pen of rough sticks 13 first constructed, having an open 
 front. A log about seven or eight feet in length, and five 
 or six inches in diameter, should then be procured. An ordin- 
 ary fence rail will answer the purpose very well, although the 
 log is preferable. Its large end should be laid across the 
 front of the pen, and two stout sticks driven into the ground 
 outside of it, leaving room for it to rise and tall easily be- 
 tween them and the pen. a second shorter log being 
 placed on the ground beneath it, as described for the bear- 
 trap, page (17). A look at our illustration fully explains the set- 
 ting of the parts. A forked twig, about a foot in length, an- 
 swers for the bait-stick. The lower end should be pointed, 
 and the fork, with its bait, should incline toward the ground, 
 when set. The upper end should be supplied with a notch, 
 square side down, and directly above the branch which 
 holds the bait. Another straight stick, about fourteen 
 inches in length, should then be cut. Make it quite flat on 
 each end. A small thin stone, chip of wood, or the like, is 
 the only remaining article required. Now proceed to raise 
 the log, as shown in the drawing, place one end of the 
 straight stick beneath it, resting its tip on the flat top of the 
 upright stick on the outside of the log. The baitstick 
 should now be placed in position inside the inclosure, resting 
 the pointed end on the chip, and securing the notch above, as 
 seen in the illustration, beneath the tip of the flat stick. When 
 this is done, the trap is set, but, there are a few little hints 
 in regard to setting it finely, — that is, surely, — which will 
 be necessary. It is very important to avoid bringing too 
 much of the weight of the log on the flat stick, as this 
 would of course bear heavily on the bait-stick, and render 
 considerable force necessary to spring the trap. The lever- 
 age at the point where the log rests on the flat stick should 
 be very slight, and the log should be so placed that the up- 
 right shall sustain nearly all the weight. By this method, 
 very little pressure is brought to bear on the bait-stick, and 
 a very slight twitch will throw it out of poise. The fork of 
 the bait-stick should point to the side of the inclosure, as, in 
 this case, when the bait is seized by the unlucky intruder, 
 the very turning of the fork forces the notch from beneath 
 the horizontal stick, and throws the parts asunder. 
 
 If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals 
 of similar size, the weight of the log will generally be found 
 sufficient to effect their death ; but, if desired, a heavy stono 
 
THE DEAD-FALL II3 
 
 may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with 
 other logs (see p. 18), to make sure. When set for a coon 
 or fox, this precaution is necessary. To guard against the 
 cunning which some animals possess, it is frequently neces- 
 sary to cover the top of the pen with cross-sticks, as there are 
 numerous cases on record where the intended victims have 
 climbed over the side of the inclosure, and taken the bait 
 from the inside, thus keeping clear of the suspended log, 
 and springing the trap without harm to themselves. A few 
 sticks or branches laid across the top of the inclosure will 
 prevent any such capers ; and the crafty animals will either 
 have to take the bait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone. 
 
 For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips, 
 apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the head 
 of a fowl, is the customary bait ; and the skunk may usually be 
 taken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl. 
 
 In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting 
 of the trap was somewhat varied ; and in case our readers might 
 desire to try a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines 
 to a description of it. In this instance, the flat stick which 
 supported the log was not more than eight inches in length ; 
 and instead of the bait-stick, a slight framework of slender 
 branches was substituted. This frame or lattice-work was 
 just large enough to fill the opening of the pen, and its upper 
 end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastened to the 
 back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top. The 
 quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust his 
 head through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrown 
 out of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly. 
 
 There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead- 
 fall, commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the 
 trap is sprung by the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. 
 This construction is shown correctly in the accompanying cut, 
 which gives the front view, the pen being made as before. The 
 stout crotch represented at (a) is rested on the summit of a 
 strong peg, driven into the ground beneath the outside edge of 
 the suspended log ; {p) is the treacherous stick which seals the 
 doom of any animal that dares rest his foot upon it. This 
 piece should be long enough to stretch across and overlap the 
 guard-pegs at each side of the opening. To set the trap, rest 
 the short crotch of {a) on the top of the peg, and lov/er the log 
 upon it, keeping the leverage sliglit, as directed in our last 
 example, letting much of the weight come on the top of the 
 
114 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 
 
 peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inward 
 from the front, and one end of the stick {b) should then be 
 caught between its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten 
 inches above the ground. By nov/ fastening^'the bait to a peg 
 
 at the back part of the pen, the affair is in working order, and 
 will be found perfectly reliable. The ground log (d) being 
 rested in place as seen in the illustration. To make assurance 
 doubly sure, it is well to cut a slight notch in the upright stick 
 at (c) for the reception of the foot-piece {b). By this precau- 
 tion the stick, when lowered, is bound to sink at the right end, 
 thus ensuring success. 
 
 The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of 
 this book, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used. 
 It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening of 
 the pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavy 
 log being poised on its summit. 
 
 THE GARROTE. 
 
 There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the 
 dead-fall, but which seizes its prey in a little different manner. 
 
THE GARROTTE. II5 
 
 This trap, which we will call the Garrote^ is trutly represented 
 by our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that of 
 the dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches arc fastened 
 in the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout 
 forked stick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at 
 the side of the arches, and about three feet distant. 
 
 Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the 
 trap, but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the " set- 
 ting " or arrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, 
 and consist : First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the 
 ground at the back part of the pen, and a little to one side. 
 Second, of a forked twig, the branch of which should point 
 
 downward with the bait attached to its end. The third stick 
 being the little hooked piece catching beneath the arches. 
 The first of these is too simple to need description. The second 
 should be about eight inches long ; a notch should be cut in 
 each end. The upper one being on the side from which the 
 branch projects, and the other on the opposite side of the stick, 
 and at the other end, as is made plain by our illustration. The 
 third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotch of some twig, 
 as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly all the parts of 
 this trap may be found in any woods ; and, with the exception of 
 a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need not trouble him- 
 self to carry any materials v/hatever. When the three pieces 
 are thus made the trap only awaits the " Garrote." This should 
 be made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a 
 heavy stone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the 
 letter U, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened 
 
ii6 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 
 
 at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructivfe' 
 work, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fall 
 between the arches. The " crotch stick " should then be hooked 
 beneath the front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. 
 After this the bait stick should be placed in its position, with 
 the bait pointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the 
 notch in the ground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch 
 stick. This done, and the trap is set. 
 
 Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the side 
 of the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the front 
 is positively sure to slip it loose from its catches. Be careful to 
 see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches, and that 
 the top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these direc- 
 tions are carefully follow- 
 ed,and if the young trapper 
 has selected a good trap- 
 ping ground, it will not be 
 a matter of many days be- 
 fore he will discover the 
 upper portion of the arches 
 occupied by some rabbit, 
 muskrat, or other unlucky 
 ^lifi >". creature, either standing 
 \ v_/:'%^^ on its hind legs, or lift- 
 ""/^•^^'-^ ed clean off the ground. 
 Coons are frequently se- 
 cured by this trap, al- 
 though, as a general thing, they don't show much enthusiasm 
 over traps of any kind, and seem to prefer to get their food 
 elsewhere, rather than take it off the end of a bait stick. 
 
 THE BOW TRAP. 
 
 This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of 
 the author's, and possesses great advantages, both on account 
 of its durability and of the speedy death which it inflicts. 
 
 Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in 
 width, and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut 
 a hole four or more inches square. This may readily be done 
 with a narrow saw, by first boring a series of gimlet holes in 
 which to insert it. There will now be nine inches of board on 
 one side of the hole and eleven on the other. The shorter end 
 constituting the top of the trap. On the upper edge of the hole 
 
BOW TRAP. 
 
 117 
 
 a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in the 
 illustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inches 
 from it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), should be 
 bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished 
 on the interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, in- 
 serted inside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. 
 Let it be about half an inch m length, being afterwards bevelled 
 nearly the whole length of one side, as shown at (J?), leaving a 
 
 little over an eight of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little 
 piece of wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should be 
 made very carefully. The remaining end of the board below the 
 auger hole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that it 
 may be driven into the ground. The next requisites consist of 
 two pieces of wood, which are seen at the sides of the square 
 hole, in our illustration, and also seen at (^), side view. These 
 
Il8 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 
 
 pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch 
 square. A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the 
 distance of four inches, and ending in a square notch. The 
 other end should be rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. 
 Before adjusting the pieces in place, two tin catches should be 
 fastened to the board, one on each side of the hole. This 
 catch is shown at {d\ and consists merely of a piece of tin, half 
 an inch in width, and three-quarters of an inch in length, tacked 
 to the wood, and having its end raised, as indicated. Its object 
 is to hold the bow-string from being pulled down after once 
 passing it. The upper edge of these catch-pieces should be 
 about an inch and a half from the top of the hole, and, if desired, 
 two or three of them may be arranged one above the other, so 
 that wherever the string may stop against the neck of the inmate 
 it will be sure to hold. The catches being in place, proceed to 
 adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notch be on a line with 
 the top of the pole, or a little above it. Each piece should be 
 fastened with two screws to make secure. 
 
 We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This 
 should be about six inches in length, and square, as our illustra- 
 tion shov/s. There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to 
 the board, both shown at {e) and (/). The former consists 
 merely of a screw eye inserted into the end of the stick, after- 
 wards hinged to the board by a wire staple. The point for the 
 hinge, in this case, should be about an inch below the auger 
 hole. In the other method (/), the bait stick should be a half 
 inch longer, and the spot for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At 
 about a quarter of an inch from the square end of the bait stick 
 a small hole should be made by the use of a hot wire. An oblong 
 mortice should next be cut in the board, so as to receive this 
 end of the stick easily. A stout bit of wire should then be in- 
 serted in the little hole in the stick, and laying this across the 
 centre of the mortice, it should be thus secured by two staples, 
 as the drawing shows. This forms a very neat and simple hinge. 
 To determine the place for the catch, insert the flat end of the 
 little plug fairly into the auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up 
 the bait stick, and at the point Avhere it comes in contact with 
 the point of the plug, cut a square notch, as shown in (b). 
 Everything now awaits the bow. This should be of hickory or 
 other stout wood ; it is well to have it seasoned, although a stout 
 sapling will answer the purpose very well. It should be fastened 
 to the top of the board by two heavy staples, or nails driven on 
 each side of it. The string should be heavy Indian twine. Our 
 
MOLE TRAP. 
 
 119 
 
 illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for bus- 
 iness. The plug is inserted, as already described, with the 
 bevelled face downward, and square end in the hole. Draw 
 down the bow-string and pass it beneath the plug, at the same 
 time catching the tip of the latter in the notch of the bait stick. 
 If properly constructed the string will thus rest on the slight un- 
 cut portion of the under side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. 
 If the bait is pushed when approached, the notch is forced off 
 from the plug, and the string flies up with a twang! securing the 
 neck of its victim, and pro ucing almost instant death. If the 
 h2\\.\?, pulled^ the bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in 
 the board, and thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which imme- 
 diately releases it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter 
 whether the bait is pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap 
 is equally sure to spring. 
 
 In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert 
 it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in order 
 that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a 
 stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait 
 may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is re- 
 quired in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug 
 should be very slightly inserted into the auger hole, and the 
 notch in the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. 
 All this is made clear in our illustration {b\ 
 
 By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure 
 and sensitive. 
 
 Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like. 
 
 THE MOLE TRAP. 
 
 If there is any one subject upon which the ingenuity of the 
 farmers has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap 
 which would effectually clear their premises of these blind bur 
 rowing vermin. Many patented devices of this character are on 
 the market, and many odd pictured ideas on the subject have 
 gone the rounds of the illustrated press, but they all sink into 
 insignificance when tested beside the trap we here present. It 
 has no equal among mole traps, and it can be made with the 
 utmost ease and without cost. The principle on which it works 
 is the same as the Fish Trap on page 120. 
 
 Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diam- 
 eter, and eight inches in length. A section of a sm.all tree, 
 neatly excavated with a large auger is just the thing. Through 
 
I20 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 
 
 the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead 
 pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About 
 halt an inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be 
 made for the passage of the noose. The spring should consist 
 either of a stout steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or 
 more in length, inserted downward through holes in the side 
 of the tube after the manner of the Fish Trap already alluded 
 to. No bait is required. A simple stick the size of the central 
 hole at one end, and an inch in width at the other being suffi- 
 cient. The trap is set as described in the other instances, and 
 as the introduction of the spindle-stick is sometimes attended 
 with difficulty owing to its position inside the trap, the bottom 
 of the latter is sometimes cut away for two or three inches to 
 facilitate the operation. The trap is then to be imbedded 
 within the burrow of the mole. Find afresh tunnel and carefully 
 remove the sod above it. Insert the trap and replace the turf. 
 The first mole that starts on his rounds through that burrow is 
 a sure prisoner, no matter from which side he may approach. 
 
 Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been 
 taken in a single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess 
 great advantages over all other mole traps on account of their 
 simplicity and unfailing success. 
 
 A FISH TRAP. 
 
 Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, 
 and although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line 
 
 under our article on " Fishing " 
 v/e here present one which h 
 both new and novel. 
 
 Its mode of construction is. 
 exactly similar to the Double 
 Box Snare, page (57). A sec- 
 tion of stove-pipe one foot in 
 length should first be obtained. 
 Through the iron at a point 
 equidistant from the ends, a hole 
 should be made with some 
 smooth, sharp pointed instru- 
 ment, the latter being forced 
 outward irom. the ijiside of the 
 pipe, thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to aj^pear on the 
 outside, as seen in our illustration. The diameter of the aper- 
 
A FISH TRAP.' 
 
 121 
 
 ture should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as 
 the upper side of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more holes 
 downward through the side of the circumference, for the ad- 
 mission of a stout stick or steel rod. This is fully explained 
 in our illustration. The further arrangement of bait stick and 
 nooses is exactly identical with that described on page (57). It 
 may be set for suckers, pickerel, and fish of like size, the bait 
 stick being inserted with sufficient firmness to withstand the at- 
 tacks of smaller fish. The bait should be firmly tied to the stick, 
 or the latter supphed with two hooks at the end on which it 
 should be firmly impaled. To set the trap, select a locality 
 abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom of the pipe, 
 insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses. 
 
 By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap 
 may be easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts 
 a multitude of small fishes ; these in turn attract the pickerel to 
 the spot, and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may 
 be raised from the water with its prisoner. This odd device is 
 an invention of the author's, and it is as successful as it is 
 unique 
 
 Maternal Advice. 
 
BOOK V. 
 
 HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. 
 
 OR the most effectual domestic trap on 
 record see our page title to this section. 
 There are several others also which have 
 done good service in many households, 
 and for the sake of pestered housekeep- 
 ers generally, we devote a corner of our 
 volume for their especial benefit. 
 
 Foremost in the list of domestic pests 
 the rat stands pre-eminent, and his pro- 
 verbial shrewdness and cunning render 
 his capture often a very difficult, if not an impossible task. We 
 subjoin, however, a few hints and suggestions of practical 
 value, together with some perfected ideas in the shape of 
 traps, by which the average rat may be easily outwitted and led 
 to his destruction. 
 First on the list is 
 
 THE BARREL TRAP. 
 
 This most ingenious device possesses great advantages in its 
 capabilities of securing an almost unlimited number of the 
 vermin in quick succession. It also takes care of itself, re- 
 quires no re-baiting or setting after once put in working order, 
 and is sure death to its prisoners. 
 
 A water-tight barrel is the first thing required. Into this 
 pour water to the depth of a foot. Next dampen a piece of 
 very thick paper, and stretch it over the top of the barrel, tying 
 it securely below the upper hoops. When the paper dries it 
 will become thoroughly flat and tightened. Its surface should 
 then be strewn with bits of cheese, etc., and the barrel so placed 
 
l^O HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. 
 
 that the rats may jump upon it from some neighboring sur- 
 face. As soon as the bait is gone, a fresh supply should be 
 spread on the paper and the same operation repeated for 
 several days, until the rats get accustomed to visit the place for 
 their regular rations, fearlessly and without suspicion. This is 
 "half the battle," and the capture of the greedy victims of mis- 
 placed confidence is now an easy matter. The bait should 
 again be spread as before and a few pieces of the cheese should 
 be attached to the paper with gum. It is a good plan to smear 
 
 parts of the paper with gum arabic, sprinkling the bait upon it. 
 When dry, cut a cross in the middle of the paper, as seen in the 
 illustration, and leave the barrel to take care of itself and the 
 rats. The first one comes along, spies the tempting morsels, 
 and with his accustomed confidence, jumps upon the paper. 
 He suddenly finds himself in the water at the bottom of the 
 barrel, and the paper above has closed and is ready to practice 
 its deception on the next comer. There is not long to wait. A 
 second victim soon tumbles in to keep company with the first. 
 A third and a fourth soon follow, and a dozen or more are 
 
BARREL TRAPS. llj 
 
 sometimes thus entrapped in a very short space of time. It is 
 a most excellent and simple trap, and if properly managed, will 
 most effectually curtail the number of rats in any pestered 
 neighborhood. 
 
 By some, it is considered an improvement to place in the 
 bottom of the barrel a large stone, which shall project above the 
 water sufficiently to offer a foothold for one rat. The first vic- 
 tim, of course, takes possession of this retreat and on the precip- 
 itate arrival of the second a contest ensues for its occupancy. 
 The hubbub which follows is said to attract all the rats in the 
 neighborhood to the spot, and many are thus captured. 
 
 We can hardly recommend the addition of the stone as being 
 an improvement. The rat is a most notoriously shrewd and 
 cunning animal, and the despairing cries of his comrades must 
 rather tend to excite his caution and suspicion. By the first 
 method the drowning is soon accomplished and the rat utters 
 no sound whereby to attract and warn his fellows. This con- 
 trivance has been thoroughly tested and has proved its effi- 
 cacy in many households by completely ridding the premises of 
 the vermin. 
 
 Another excellent form of Barrel Trap is that embodying 
 the principle described in page (131). A circular platform should 
 be first constructed and hinged in the opening of the barrel. 
 This may be done by driving a couple of small nails thiough 
 the sides of the barrel into a couple of staples inserted near 
 the opposite edges of the iDlatform. The latter should be deli- 
 cately weighted, as described on the above mentioned page, and 
 previously to setting, should be baited in a stationary position 
 for several days to gain the confidence of the rats. The bait 
 should at last be secured to the platform with gum, and the bot- 
 tom of the barrel of course filled with water, as already de- 
 scribed. This trap possesses the samo advantages as the fore- 
 going. It is self-settings and unfailing in its action. 
 
 Another method consists in half-filling the barrel with oats, 
 and allowing the rats to enjoy their repast there for several 
 days. When thus attracted to the spot, remove the oats, and 
 pour the same bulk of water into the barrel, sprinkling the sur- 
 face thickly with the grain. The delusion is almost perfect, as 
 will be effectually proven when the first rat visits the spot for 
 his accustomed free lunch. Down he goes with a splash, is 
 soon drowned, and sinks to the bottom. The next shares th& 
 same fate, and several more are likely to be added to the list of 
 mis<xuidcd victims. 
 
128 HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. 
 
 Many of the devices described throughout mis work may be 
 adapted for domestic use to good purpose. The box-trap 
 page 103, box-snare, page ^S) iigure-four, page 107, are all 
 suitable for the capture of the rat ; also, the examples given on 
 pages 106, 109, no, and 129. 
 
 The steel-trap is often used, but should always be con- 
 cealed from view. It is a good plan to set it in a pan covered 
 with meal, and placed in the haunts of the rats. The trap may 
 also be set at the mouth of the rats' hole, and covered with a 
 piece of dark-colored cloth or paper. The runways between 
 boxes, boards, and the like offer excellent situations for the 
 trap, which should be covered, as before directed. 
 
 Without one precaution, however, the trap may be set in 
 vain. Much of the so-called shrewdness of the rat is nothing 
 more than an instinctive caution, through the acute sense of 
 smell which the animal possesses ; and a trap which has secured 
 one victim will seldom extend its list, unless all traces of its 
 first occupant are thoroughly eradicated. This may be accom- 
 plished by smoking the trap over burning paper, hens' feathers 
 or chips, taking care to avoid a heat so extreme as to affect the 
 temper of the steel springs. All rat-traps should be treated the 
 same way, in order to insure success, and the position and locali- 
 ties of setting should be frequently changed. 
 
 THE BOX DEAD-FALL. 
 
 This trap is an old invention, simplified by the author, and 
 for the capture of rats and mice will prove very effectual. It 
 consists of a box, constructed of four slabs of 3-4 inch board- 
 ing, and open at both ends. The two side boards should be 
 10 X 18 inches ; top and bottom boards, 6 x 18 inches. For the 
 centre of the latter, a square piece should be removed by the 
 aid of the saw. The width of this piece should be four inches, 
 and the length eight inches. Before nailing the boards to- 
 gether, the holes thus left in the bottom board should be 
 supplied with a treadle platform, working on central side pivots. 
 The board for this treadle should be much thinner and lighter 
 than the rest of the trap, and should fit loosely in place, its sur- 
 face being slightly below the level of the bottom board. This 
 is shown in the interior of the trap. The pivots should be 
 inserted in the exact centre of the sides, through holes made 
 in the edge of the bottom board. These holes may be bored 
 with a gimlet or burned with a red-hot wire. The pivots may 
 
HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. 
 
 129 
 
 consist of stout brass or iron wire ; and the end of one should be 
 flattened with the hammer, as seen at (a). This pivot should 
 project an inch from the wood, and should he^n/ily inserted in 
 the treadle-piece. The platform being thus arranged, proceed to 
 fasten the boards together, as shown in the illustration, the top 
 and bottom boards overlapping the others. We will now give 
 bur attention to the stick shown at (3), This should be whittled 
 
 from a piece ot hard wood, its length being three inches, and 
 its upper end pointed as seen. The lower end should be 
 pierced with a crevice, which should then be forced over the 
 flattened extremity of the point (a) as shown at (c), pointed end 
 uppermost. The weight (a) is next in order. This should con- 
 sist of a heavy oak plank two inches in thickness, and of such 
 other dimensions as will allow it to fit loosely in the box, and fall 
 from top to bottom therein without catching between the sides. A 
 stout staple should be driven in the centre of its upper face, and 
 from this a stout string should be passed upward through a hole 
 in the centre of the box. We are now ready for the spindle {e). 
 This should be about three inches in length, and bluntly pointed 
 
130 
 
 HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. 
 
 at each end, a notch being made to secure it at a point five 
 inches above the pivot (c). To set the trap, raise the weight, as 
 seen in the illustration ; draw down the string to the point (e), 
 and attach it to the spindle one-half an inch from its upper 
 end, which should then be inserted in the notch, the lower end 
 being caught against the extremity of the pivot stick. The 
 parts are now adjusted, and even iathe present state the trap 
 is almost sure to spring at the slighest touch on the treadle- 
 piece. An additional precaution is advisable, however. Two 
 small wooden pegs (/) should be driven, one on each side of the 
 spindle, thus preventing any side-movement of the latter. It 
 will now be readily seen that the slightest weight on either end 
 of the treadle-piece within the trap must tilt it to one side, 
 thus throwing the pivot-piece from its bearing on the spin- 
 dle ; and the latter being released, lets fall the weight with 
 crushing effect upon the back of its hapless victim. 
 
 The trap is very effective, and is easily constructed. The 
 bait should be rested in the centre of the treadle platform. 
 Built on a larger scale, this device may be successfully adapted 
 to the capture of the mink, martien, and many other varieties of 
 game. 
 
 THE BOARD-FLAP. 
 
THE BOX PIT-FALL. 13I 
 
 For the capture of mice this is both a simple and effective 
 contrivance, and it may be enlarged so as to be of good ser- 
 vice for larger animals. Procure two boards, one foot square and 
 one inch thick, and secure them together by two hinges, as in the 
 illustration. Assuming one as the upper board, proceed to 
 bore a gimlet hole three inches from the hinges. This is for 
 the reception of the bait stick, and should be cut away on ths 
 inside, as seen in the section {a), thus allowing a free play for 
 the stick. Directly beneath this aperture, and in the lower 
 board, a large auger hole should be made. A stout bit of iron 
 wire, ten inches in length, is now required. This should be 
 inserted perpendicularly in the further end of the lower slab, 
 being bent into a curve which shall slide easily through a gimlet 
 hole in the edge of the upper board. This portion is very impor- 
 tant, and should be carefully constructed. The bait stick 
 should be not more than three inches in length, supplied 
 with a notch in its upper end, and secured in the aperture 
 in the board by the aid of. a pivot and staples, as is clearly 
 shown in our drawing. The spindle is next in order. It 
 should consist of a light piece of pine eight and a half inches 
 in length, and brought to an edge at each end. A tack should 
 now be driven at the further edge of the upper board on a line 
 Vv'ith the aperture through which the wire passes. Our illustra- 
 tion represents the trap as it appears when set. The upper 
 band is raised to the full limit of the wire. One end of the 
 spindle is now adjusted beneath the head of the tack, and the 
 other in the notch in the bait stick. The wire thus supports 
 the suspended board by sustaining the spindle, which is held 
 in equiUbrium. A slight touch on the bait stick soon destroys 
 this equiUbrium : a flap ensues, and a dead mouse is the result. 
 The object of the auger hole in the lower board consists in 
 affording a receptacle for the bait when the boards come to- 
 gether, as otherwise it would defeat its object, by offering an 
 obstruction to the fall of the board, and thus allow its little 
 mouse to escape. 
 
 It is, therefore, an essential part of the trap, and should be 
 carefully tested before being finally set. 
 
 THE BOX P'lT-FALL. 
 
 We now come to a variety of trap which differs m its con- 
 struction from any previously described. It secures its victims 
 alive, and without harm, and, when well made, is very success- 
 
132 
 
 HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. 
 
 ful. It may be set for squirrels, chipmunks, rats, mice, and 
 the Uke, and on a large scale for muskrats and mink. 
 
 The trap is very easily made, and is represented in section 
 in our illustration, showing the height and interior of the box. 
 For ordinary purposes the box should be about twelve or four- 
 teen inches square, with a depth of about eighteen inches. A 
 ])latform consisting of a piece of tin should then be procured. 
 This should be just large enough to fit nicely to the outhne of 
 the interior of the box without catching. On two opposite sides 
 
 of this piece of tin, and at the middle of each of those sides, a 
 small strip of the same material should be wired, or soldered in the 
 form of a loop, as shown in the separate diagram at (/;). These 
 loops should be only large enough to admit the end of a shingle- 
 nail. A scratch should now be made across the tin from loop 
 to loop, and on the centre of this scratch another and larger 
 strip of tin should be fastened in a similar manner, as shown in 
 our diagram, at (.7), this being for the balance weight. The 
 
THE BOX PITFALL. 1 33 
 
 latter may consist of a small stone, piece of lead, or the like, and 
 should be suspended by means of a wire bent around it, and 
 secured in a hole in the tin by a bend or knot in the other ex- 
 tremity. Further explanations are almost superfluous, as our 
 main illustration fully explains itself. 
 
 After the weight is attached, the platform should be secured 
 in its place, about five inches from the top of the box. To 
 accomplish this and form the hinges, two shingle -nails should be 
 driven through the side of the box into the tin loops prepared 
 for them. To do this nicely requires some considerable accu- 
 racy and care, and it should be so done that the platform will 
 swing with perfect freedom and ease, the weight below bringing 
 it to a horizontal poise after a few vibrations. Care should be 
 taken that the weight is not too heavy, as, in such a case, the 
 
 "^^ 
 
 -^ 
 
 platform will not be sensitive on its balance, and, consequently, 
 would not work so quickly and surely. The weight should be 
 just heavy enough to restore the platform to its perfect poise, 
 and no more. This can be easily regulated by experiment. 
 The bait should then be strewn on both sides of the platform, 
 when the trap is set, and the luckless animal, jumping after the 
 bait, feels his footing give way, and suddenly finds himself in 
 the bottom of a dark box, from which it is impossible for him to 
 escape except by gnawing his way out. To prevent this, the in- 
 terior of the box may be lined with tin. 
 
 Y^y fastenijtg the bait — a small lump or piece — on each side 
 of the tin, the trap will continually reset itself, and, in this way, 
 two or three individuals may be taken, one after the other. 
 Muskrats are frequently caught in this trap, it being generally 
 buried in the ground so that its top is on a level with the sur- 
 face. In this case it is necessary to arrange the platform lower 
 down in the box, and the latter should be of much larger dimen- 
 sions than the one we have described. 
 
134 
 
 HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. 
 
 For ordinary purposes the box should either be set in the 
 ground or placed near some neighboring object which will afford 
 easy access to it. No less than a dozen rats have been caught 
 in a trap of this kind in a single night. 
 
 CAGE TRAP. 
 
 The common cage trap is well known to most of our 
 readers, and for the capture of rats and mice, it is one of the 
 most efficacious devices in existence. The construction of one 
 of these traps is quite a difficult operation, and we would hesi- 
 tate before advising our inventive reader to exercise his patience 
 and ingenuity in the manufacture of an article which can be 
 bought for such a small price, and which, after all, is only a 
 mouse trap. If it were a device for the capture of the inijtk or 
 otter^ it might then be well worth the trouble, and would be 
 likely to repay the time and labor expended upon it. We imagine 
 that few would care to exercise their skill over a trap of such 
 complicated structure, while our pages are filled with other 
 simpler and equally effective examples. 
 
 For the benefit, however, of such as are of an inventive turn . 
 of mind, we subjoin an illustration of the trap to serve as a guide. 
 The principle upon which it works is very simple. The bait is 
 
BOWL TRAPS. 
 
 135 
 
 Strewn inside the cage, and the rats or mice find their only access 
 to it through the hole at the top. The wires here converge at 
 the bottom, and are pointed at the ends. The passage down- 
 wards is an easy matter, but to escape through the same opening 
 is impossible, as the pointed ends of the wires effectually prevent 
 the ascent. It is a notable fact, however, that the efforts to 
 escape through this opening are very seldom made. The mode 
 of entering seems to be absolutely forgotten by the captive 
 animals, and they rush frantically about the cage, prying between 
 all the wires in their wild endeavors, never seeming to notice 
 the central opening by which they entered. This is easily ex- 
 plained by the fact that the open grating admits the light from 
 all sides, and the enclosed victims are thus attracted to no one 
 spot in particular, and naturally rush to the extreme edges of the 
 trap, in the hope of finding an exit. 
 
 If a thick cloth be placed over the cage, leaving the opening 
 at the top uncovered, the confined creatures are soon attracted 
 by the light, and lose no time in rushing towards it, where their 
 endeavors to ascend are effectually checked by the pointed wires. 
 Profiting by this experiment, the author once imj^rovised a 
 simple trap on the same principle, which proved very effectual. 
 We will call it 
 
 THE JAR TRAP. 
 
 In place of the wire cage, a glass preserve-jar was substituted. 
 A few bits of cheese were then dropped inside, and the top of a 
 funnel inserted into the opening above. This completed the 
 trap, and it was set on the floor near the flour barrel. On the 
 following morning the jar was occupied by a little mouse, and 
 each successive night for a week added one to the list of victims. 
 A stiff piece of tin, bent into the required shape, may be substi- 
 tuted for the funnel top, or even a very heavy piece of pasteboard 
 might answer. 
 
 BOWL TRAPS. 
 
 Very effective extempore traps may be set up in a .few 
 minutes by the use of a few bowls. There are two methods 
 commonly employed. One consists of the bowl and a knife- 
 blade. An ordinary tableknife is used and a piece of cheese is 
 firmly forced on to the end of the blade, the bowl is then balanced 
 on the edge, allowing the bait to project about an inch and a 
 half beneath the bowl. The odor of cheese will attract a mouse 
 
 lO 
 
136 HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. 
 
 almost anywhere, and he soon finds his way to the tempting 
 morsel in this case. A very slight nibble is sufficient to tilt the 
 blade and the bowl falls over its prisoner. 
 
 In the second method a thimble is used in place of the knife. 
 The cheese is forced into its interior, and the open end of the 
 thimble inserted far beneath the bowl, allowing about half its 
 length to project outward. 
 
 The mouse is thus obliged to pass under the bowl in order 
 to reach the bait, and in his efforts to grasp the morsel, the 
 thimble is dislodged and the captive secured beneath the vessel. 
 Where a small thimble is used, it becomes necessary to place a bit 
 of pasteboard or flat chip beneath it, in order to raise it sufficiently 
 to afford an easy passage for the mouse. Both of these devices 
 are said to work excellently. 
 
 FLY PAPER. 
 
 A sheet of common paper, smeared with a mixture composed 
 of molasses one part, and bird-lime six parts (see page 97), will 
 be found to attract large numbers of flies and hold them prisoners 
 upon its surface. 
 
 Spruce gum, warmed on the fire, and mixed with a little lin- 
 seed oil, is also excellent. For a genuine fly trap, the following 
 stands unrivalled. 
 
 FLY TRAP. 
 
 Take a tumbler, and half-fill it with strong soap suds. Cut 
 a circle of stiff paper which will exactly fit into the top of the 
 glass. In the centre of the paper cut a hole half an inch in 
 diameter, or, better still, a slice of bread may be placed on the 
 glass. Smear one side of the disc with molasses, and insert 
 it in the tumbler with this side downward. Swarms of flies 
 soon surround it, and one by one find their way downward 
 through the hole. Once below the paper, and their doom is 
 sealed. For a short time the molasses absorbs their attention, 
 and the}^, in turn, absorb the molasses. 
 
 In their efforts to escape, they one by one precipitate them- 
 selves in the soap suds below, where they speedily perish. The 
 tumbler is soon half-filled with the dead insects, and where a 
 number of the traps are set in a single room, the apartment is 
 soon ridden of the pests . 
 
BOOK VI. 
 
 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 ^^ ASS I NG from our full and extended illustrated 
 ^m list of extempore, or "rough and ready" exam- 
 pies of the trap kind, we will now turn our attention 
 to the consideration of that well-known implement, 
 the trade steel trap. Although the foregoing vari- 
 eties often serve to good purpose, the Steel Trap 
 is the principal device used by professional trap- 
 pers, and possesses great advantages over all 
 other traps. It is portable, sets easily and quickly, 
 either on land or beneath the water ; can be con- 
 cealed with ease ; secures its victims without injury 
 to their fur, and by the application of the spring 
 or sliding pole (hereafter described) will most effectually pre- 
 vent the captive from making his escape by self-amputation, 
 besides placing him beyond the reach of destruction by other 
 animals. 
 
 The author has known trappers who have plied their vocation 
 largely by the aid of the various hand made traps, described 
 in the earlier pages of this book, and with good success. But 
 in the regular business of systematic trapping, their extensive 
 use is not common. The experience of modern trappers gener- 
 ally, warrants the assertion that for practical utility, from every 
 point of view, the steel trap stands unrivalled. 
 
 These traps are made of all sizes, from that suitable for the 
 capture of the house rat, to the immense and wieldy machine 
 adapted to the grizzly, and known as the "bear tamer." 
 
 They may be bought at almost any hardware shop, although 
 a large portion of the traps ordinarily sold are defective. They 
 should be selected with care, and the springs always tested 
 
138 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 before purchase. Besides the temper of the spring, there are 
 also other necessary quihties in a steel trap, which we subjoin 
 in order that the amateur may know how to judge and select 
 his weapons judiciously. 
 
 REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP. 
 
 1. The jaws should not be too thin nor sharp cornered. In, 
 the cheaper class of steel traps the jaws approach to the thin- 
 ness of sheet-iron, and the result is that the thin edi^es often 
 sever the leg of their would-be captive in a single stroke. At 
 other times the leg is so deeply cut as to easily enable the animal 
 to gnaw or twist it off. This is the common mode of escape, 
 with many animals. 
 
 2. The pan should not be too lar^e. This is a very common 
 fault with many steel traps and often defeats its very object. 
 "Where the pan is small, the foot of the animal in pressing it, 
 will be directly in the centre of the snap of the jaw, and he is 
 thus firmly secured far up on the leg. On the other hand, a 
 large pan nearly filling the space between the jaws as the trap 
 is set, may be sprung by a touch on its extreme edge, and the 
 animal's toe is thus likely to get slightly pinched, if indeed the 
 paw is not thrown off altogether by the forcible snap of the jaw. 
 
 3. The springs should be strongs scientifically tempered, and 
 proportioned. The strength of a perfectly tempered spring will 
 always remain the same, whether in winter or summer, never 
 losing its elasticity. The best of tempering, however, is useless 
 in a spring badly formed or clumsily tapered. 
 
 4. The jaws should be so curved as to give the bow of the 
 spring a proper sweep to work upon. The jaws should lie fiat 
 when open, and should always v/ork easily on their hinges. 
 
 5. Every trap should be furnished with a strong chain 
 with ring and swivel attached, and in every case the swivel should 
 turn easily. 
 
 The celebrated '' Newhouse Trap " embodies all the above 
 requisites, and has deservedly won a reputation for excellence 
 second to no other in this or any other country. 
 They are made in eight sizes, as follows : 
 
 This is the smallest size and is known as 
 the RAT TRAP. It has a single spring, and 
 the jaws spread three and a half inches when 
 set. 
 
 No. o. 
 
REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP. 
 
 141 
 
 This size is called the MUSKRAT 
 TRAP, and the jaws spread four inches. 
 It is especially designed for the capture 
 of the mink, marten, and animals of 
 similar size. 
 
 This is known in the trade 
 as the MINK TRAP, and the 
 jaws spread nearly five inches. 
 It is adapted for the fox, rac- 
 coon, or fisher. 
 
 No 254 
 
 This size is called the 
 FOX TRAP. The spread 
 of the jaws is the same 
 as in the foregoing, but 
 the trap is provided with 
 two springs, and consequently has double the power. It 
 is strong enough for the otter, and is generally used for the 
 capture of the fox and fisher. 
 
 No. 3 goes by the 
 name of the OTTER 
 TRAP. The jaws 
 spread five and a half 
 inches, and the power- 
 ful double springs do 
 excellent service in the capture of the beaver, fox, badger, 
 opossum, wild cat, and animals of like size. 
 
 Commonly calle'd 
 the BEAVER 
 TRAP. Jaws 
 spread six and a 
 half inches. This 
 size is especially 
 adapted to the 
 wolf, lynx or wolverine. It may also be set for deer, and 
 extra sets of jaws are made expressly for this purpose, being 
 easily inserted in the place of the ordinary jav/s, when desired 
 
142 
 
 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 This is known as the 
 *' GREAT BEAR TAMER," 
 and is a most formidable 
 weapon. The jaws spread six- 
 teen inches, and the weight of 
 the machine is forty-two 
 pounds. It is extensively 
 used in the capture of the 
 moose and grizzly bear, and 
 is the largest and most power- 
 ful steel trap made in this or 
 any other country. The springs 
 possess most tremendous 
 power, and require to be set by 
 a lever, as the weight of an 
 ordinary man has not the 
 slightest effect upon them. 
 This lever may be easily ap- 
 plied, as follows : Have at 
 hand four stout straps, sup- 
 plied with buckles. These 
 should always be carried by 
 the trapper, where the larger 
 double-spring traps are used. 
 To adjust the lever, cut four 
 heavy sticks about three feet 
 long. Take two of them and 
 secure their ends together, 
 side by side, with one of the 
 straps. Now insert the spring 
 of the trap between them, 
 near the strap. Bear down 
 heavily on the other extremity 
 of the levd'r, and the spring 
 will be found to yield easily, 
 after which the remaining 
 ends of the levers should be 
 secured by a second strap. 
 The other spring should now , 
 be treated in the same way, 
 after which the jaws should 
 be spread and the pan adjusted. 
 1 he removal of the straps and 
 
HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP. 143 
 
 levers is now an easy matter, after which the trap is set. The 
 stoutest s^Dring is easily made to yield by such treatment. 
 
 The SMALL BEAR TRAP. The jaws of this size spread 
 nearly a foot, and the Aveight of the trap is seventeen pounds. 
 It is used in the capture of the black bear, puma, and animals 
 of similar size. 
 
 All of the foregoing are supplied with swivels and chains. 
 
 HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP. 
 
 There is a very common and erroneous idea current among 
 amateur sportsmen and others in regard to the baiting of the 
 steel trap ; viz., that the pan of the trap is intended for the bait 
 
 ^^i 
 
 ■::.w^^^,^r^^j 
 
 This was the old custom in the traps of bygone times, but no 
 modern trap is intended to be so misused, and would indeed 
 often defeat its object in such a case, wherein it will be easily 
 
144 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 seen. The object of the professional trapper is, the acquisition 
 of furs ; and a prime fur skin should be without break or bruise, 
 from nose to tail. A trap set as above described, would of 
 course catch its victim by the head or neck, and the fur would 
 be more or less injured at the very spot where it should be par- 
 ticularly free from blemish. 
 
 The true object of the steel trap is, that it shall take the ani- 
 mal by the leg^ thus injuring the skin only in a part where it is 
 totally valueless. 
 
 We give, then, this imperative rule — Never bait a steel trap 
 on the paji. 
 
 The pan is intended for \ki^foot of the game, and in order to 
 insure capture by this means, the bait should be so placed as 
 that the attention of the animal will be drawn away from the 
 trap ; the latter being in such a position as will cause the victim 
 to step i7i it when reaching for the tempting allurement. 
 
 There are several ways of doing this, one of which we here 
 illustrate. 
 
 A pen of stakes, in the shape of the letter V, is first con- 
 structed. The trap is then set in the angle, and the bait 
 attached to the end stake directly over it. Another method is 
 shown in the picture on our title-page to this section, the bait 
 being suspended on a stick above the trap. There are various 
 other methods on the same principle, which will be described 
 hereafter, under the titles of the various game. 
 
 THE SPRING POLE. 
 
 This is nearly always used in connection with the steel trap, 
 in the capture of the smaller land animals. It not only lifts the 
 creature into the air, and thus prevents its becoming a prey to 
 other animals, but it also guards against the escape of the victim 
 by the amputation of its own leg. This is a very common 
 mode of release with many kinds of game — notably the 
 mink, marten, and muskrat ; and for the successful trapping 
 of these, as well as many other animals, the spring and 
 sliding pole are absoltute necessities. It is a simple 
 
 contrivance, consisting merely of a pole inserted in the 
 ground near the trap. The pole is then bent down, and the 
 trap chain secured to its end. A small, notched peg is next 
 driven into the ground and the top of the pole caught in it, and 
 thus held in a bent position. When the animal is caught, its 
 struggles release the pole, and the latter, flying up with a jerk. 
 
THE SLIDING POLE. 
 
 f45 
 
 lifts the trap and its occupant high in the air, out of the reach of 
 marauders, and beyond the power of escape by self-amputation. 
 Even in the capture of large game the spring pole often serves 
 to good purpose. The struggles of a heavy animal are often so 
 
 violent as to break a stout trap or chain ; and the force of the 
 spring pole, although not sufficient to raise the animal from its 
 feet, often succeeds in easing the strain, and often thus saves a 
 trap from being broken to pieces. The power of the pole must 
 of course be proportionate to the weight of the desired game. 
 
 THE SLIDING POLE. 
 
 The first impulse with almost every aquatic animal when 
 caught in a trap, is to plunge headlong into deep water. With 
 the smaller animals, such as the mink and muskrat, this is all 
 that is desired by the trapper, as the weight of the trap with the 
 chain is sufficient to drown its victim. But with larger animals, 
 the beaver and otter for instance, an additional precaution, in the 
 shape of the " sliding pole," is necessary. This consists of a 
 pole about ten feet long, smoothly trimmed of its branches, ex- 
 cepting at the tip, where a few stubs should be left. Insert this 
 end obliquely into the bed of the stream, where the water is 
 
146 
 
 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 deep, and secure the large end to the bank by means of a hooked 
 stick, as seen in our illustration. The ring of the chain should 
 be large enough to slide easily down the entire length of the 
 pole. When the trap is set, the ring should be slipped on the 
 
 large end of the pole, and held in place by resting a stick against 
 it. The animal, when caught, plunges off into deep water, and 
 guided by the pole, is led to the bottom of the river. The ring 
 slides down to the bed of the stream, and there holds its victim 
 until drowned. 
 
 THE CLOG. 
 
 A trap which is set for heavy game should never be secured 
 to a stake. Many of the larger and more powerful animals 
 when caught in a trap thus secured, are apt either to pull or twist 
 their legs off, or break both trap and chain to pieces. To guard 
 against this, the chain should be weighted with a pole or small 
 log, of a size proportionate to the dimensions of the game, its 
 weight being merely sufficient to offer a serious incumbrance to 
 the animal, without positively checking its movements. This 
 impediment is called the " clog," and is usually attached to the 
 ring of the trap chain by its larger end, the ring being slipped 
 over the latter, and secured in place by a wedge. A look at our 
 frontispiece will give a clear idea of both clog and attachment. 
 
THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING. 
 THE GRAPPLING IRON. 
 
 ^47 
 
 This answers the same purpose as the above, and is often 
 used instead. It is manufactured in connection with the larger 
 
 steel traps, and is attached to the chain by a swivel joint. Its 
 general shape is shown in an en^jraving, and it offers a serious 
 resistance to the victim, who endeavors to run away with it. 
 
 THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING. 
 
 The business of trapping for profit must be confined to the 
 season between the first of October and the beginning of May, 
 as furs of all kinds are worthless when taken duringthe other 
 months of the year. The reason of this is obvious. A '-''prime 
 fur ''^ m.\xsth^ "" thick ^^ and '-'- full^'' and as all our fur-bearing 
 animals shed their heavy winter coats as warm weather ap- 
 proaches, it necessarily follows that the capture at this season 
 would be unprofitable. As the autumn approaches the new 
 growth appears, and the fur becomes thick and glossy. By the 
 middle of October most furs are in their prime, but the heart of 
 winter is the best time for general trapping. The furs of thp 
 
148 THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 mink, muskrat, fisher, marten and beaver are not in their per- 
 fect prime until this season. And all other furs are sure to be 
 in good condition at this time. 
 
 THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 From time immemorial, and in every nation of the world, the 
 art of trapping has been more or less practised. By some as a 
 means of supplying their wants in the shape of daily food, and 
 by others for the purpose of merchandise or profit. 
 
 To be a clever and succesful trapper, much more is required 
 than is generally supposed. The mere fact of a person's being 
 able to set a trap cleverly and judiciously forms but a small part 
 of his proficiency ; and unless he enters deeper into the subject 
 and learns something of the nature and habits of the animals he 
 intends to catch, his traps will be set in vain, or at best meet 
 with but indifferent success. The study of natural history here 
 becomes a matter of necessity as well as pleasure and profit. 
 And unless the trapper thoroughly acquaints himself with the 
 habits of his various game, the sagacity and cunning of his 
 intended victim will often outwit his most shrewd endeavors, 
 much to his chagrin. The sense of smell, so largely developed 
 in many animals, becomes one of the trappers most serious 
 obstacles, and seems at times to amount almost to positive rea- 
 son^ so perfectly do the creatures baffle the most ingenious 
 attempts of man in his efforts to capture them. A little insight 
 into the ways of these artful animals, however, and a little expe- 
 rience with their odd tricks soon enables one to cope with them 
 successfully and overcome their whims. For the benefit of the 
 amateur who has not had the opportunity of studying for him- 
 self, the peculiarities of the various game, the author appends a 
 comprehensive chapter on " Practical Natural History," in which 
 will be found full accounts of the peculiar habits and leading 
 characteristics of all the various animals commonly sought by 
 the trapper, together with detailed directions for trapping each 
 variety, supplemented with a faithful portrait of the animal in 
 nearly every instance. A careful reading of the above mentioned 
 chapter will do much towards acquainting the novice with the 
 ways of the sly creatures, which he hopes to victimize, and will 
 thus prepare him to contend with them successfully. 
 
 In the art of trapping the bait is often entirely dispensed with, 
 the traps being set and carefully concealed in the runways of the 
 various animals. These by-paths are easily detected by an 
 
"medicines'' or scent baits. 149 
 
 experienced trapper, and are indicated eitlier by footprints or 
 other evidences of the animal, together with the matted leaves 
 and broken twigs and grasses. 
 
 Natural channels, such as hollow logs or crevices between 
 rocks or fallen trees, offer excellent situations for steel traps, and 
 a good trapper is always on the quivive for such chance advan- 
 tages, thus often saving much of the time and labor which 
 would otherwise be spent in the building of artificial enclosures, 
 etc. 
 
 The most effective baits used in the art of trapping are those 
 which' are used to attract the animal through its sense of smell, 
 as distinct from that of its mere appetite for food. These baits 
 are known in the profession as *' medicine," or scent baits and 
 possess the most remarkable power of attracting the various 
 animals from great distances, and leading them almost irresist- 
 ibly to any desired spot. Such is the barkstone or castoreum, 
 of such value in the capture of the beaver, and the oil of anise, 
 so commonly used for the trapping of animals in general. These 
 various substances will presently be considered under their prop- 
 er heading. 
 
 Many detailed and specific directions on the subject of trap- 
 ping will be found in the long chapter following; and, in closing 
 our preliminary remarks, we would add just one more word of 
 general caution, which the young trapper should always bear in 
 mind. 
 
 In all cases avoid handling the trap with the bare hand. Many 
 an amateur has set and reset his traps in vain, and retired from 
 the field of trapping in disgust, from the mere want of observing 
 this rule. Animals of keen scent are quick in detecting the 
 slightest odors, and that left by the touch of a human hand often 
 suffices to drive the creature away from a trap which, under 
 other circumstances, would have been its certain destruction. 
 To be sure the various scent baits already alluded to, will in a 
 measure overcome human traces, but not always effectually, and 
 in order to insure success no precautions so simple should be 
 neglected. A pair of clean buckskin gloves are valuable requis- 
 ites to the trapper, and should always be ^'on hand" when set- 
 ting or transporting traps. 
 
 "medicines," or scent baits. 
 
 These form one of the most important requisites of the 
 trapper's art. A trap baited simply with the food of the 
 II 
 
150 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 required animal, may and often will be successful, but with 
 the addition of the trapper's ^'medicine" judicially applied, 
 success is almost a certainty. These scent baits are of various 
 kinds, some being almost universal in their usefulness, while 
 others are attractive only to some particular species of animal. 
 We give a few of the recipes of the most valued preparations 
 used by trappers throughout the land. The application and 
 use of each is fully described in its proper place hereafter. 
 
 CASTOREUM. 
 
 This substance, commonly known as " Barksfone,^'' by trappers 
 and fur dealers, is obtained from the beaver, and is a remarkable 
 aid in the capture of that animal. It is an acrid secretion of a 
 powerful musky odor, found in two glands beneath the root of 
 the tail of the beaver. These glands are about two inches 
 in length. They are cut out and the contents are squeezed into 
 a small bottle. When fresh the substance is of a yellowish-red 
 color, changing to a light-brown when dried. Both male and 
 female animals yield the castoreum, but- that of the male is gen- 
 erally considered the best. Castoreum is a commercial drug, and 
 in many beaver countries it is quite an article of trade. There 
 are other sacs lying directly behind the castor glands which 
 contain a strong oil of rancid sm^ell. This should not be con- 
 founded with the castoreum. 
 
 CASTOREUM COMPOSITION. 
 
 The Barkstone is used both pure and in combination with 
 other substances, the following prescription being much used : 
 Into the contents of about ten of the castor bags, mix two 
 ground nutmegs, thirty or forty cloves, also powdered, one drop 
 essence of peppermint, and about two thimblefuls of ground cin- 
 namon. Into this stir as much whisky as will give the whole 
 the consistency of paste, after which the preparation should be 
 bottled and kept carefully corked. At the expiration of a few 
 days the odor increases ten-fold in power and is ready for use. 
 A bottle, if thus prepared, will retain its strength for nearly a half 
 year, provided it is kept closely corked. A few drops of either 
 the pure castoreum or the combination spread upon the bait or 
 in the neighborhood of the trap, as described under the chatpter 
 on the Beaver, will entice that animal from a great distance. 
 
FISH OIL. 151 
 
 MUSK. 
 
 This substance is a secretion obtained from several different 
 animals, notably the otter and muskrat. The glands which con- 
 tain it are located similarly to the castor glands of the beaver, 
 and the musk should be discharged into a vial, as previously 
 described. The musk of the female muskrat is said to be the 
 most pov/erful, and is chiefly used by trappers in the capture of 
 that animal, the otter being chiefly attracted by its own 
 musk. 
 
 ASSAFCETIDA. 
 
 This foul smelling production seems to have a specially 
 attractive fragrance to many animals, and for general use is 
 much esteemed by trappers. It is a vegetable drug from Persia 
 and the East Indies, and is imported in the form of concrete 
 juice, of a brown color. 
 
 OIL or RHODIUM. 
 
 This is a vegetable oil obtained from a species of rose, and is 
 quite costly. Its power of attracting animals is surprising, and 
 it is in very common use among trappers. 
 
 FISH OIL. 
 
 This is especially useful in the capture of the majority of the 
 fur tribe, and particularly the water animals. 
 
 The oil may be bought ready for use, or prepared with little 
 trouble. The common method consists in cutting up fish of any 
 kind, especially eels, into small bits, putting them in a bottle, and 
 setting the latter in the full exposure to the sun. It should thus 
 be left for about two weeks, at the end of which time a rancid 
 oil will have formed. A few drops of this oil will entice many 
 animals from surprising distances, often drawing their attention 
 to a bait which otherwise they might never have scented. 
 
 OIL OF SKUNK. 
 
 This, the ne phis ultra, or quintessence of diabolical stencli. 
 yields the tempting savor which irrisistibly attracts many animals 
 to their final doom. It is contained in a pouch beneath the 
 insertion of the tail of the animal, and is spread abroad by the 
 
152 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 creature with lavish extravagance when circumstances demand, 
 or we might say when occasion permits. It may be taken from 
 the animal and bottled as already described in other instances, 
 chloride of lime being used to eradicate the stench from the 
 hands. 
 
 OIL OF AMBER. 
 
 This substance is frequently referred to in the following pages, 
 and is a vegetable product of the amber gum of commerce. The 
 Oil of Ambergris is also sometimes used by trappers, and is 
 likewise known as Amber Oil. The two are thus often con- 
 founded, although the former is supposed to be most generally 
 used. 
 
 OIL OF ANISE. 
 
 This is strongly recommended by many trappers as a most 
 excellent "universal medicine." It is a vegetable product, and 
 is obtainable at any drug store. 
 
 SWEET FENNEL. 
 
 This plant is commonly cultivated all over the United States, 
 and the seeds are often powdered and used as a scent bait. The 
 Oil of Fennel is preferable, however, and may be had at almost 
 any drug store. 
 
 CUMMIN. 
 
 This is another plant, somewhat resembling the former, and, 
 like it, cultivated for its seeds. It has an aromatic taste, and its 
 strong pungent odor renders it of great value to the trapper. 
 The seeds may be powdered and thus used, or the oil of the 
 plant may be easily procured. The latter is preferable. 
 
 FENUGREEK. 
 
 Like the two foregoing this plant is valuable for its seeds, 
 which are used for medicinal purposes. The oil or bruised 
 seeds may be used. 
 
 LAVENDER. 
 
 This is another aromatic plant, the oil of which, either pure 
 or diluted with alchohol, is much used in the trapper's art. 
 
THE TRAIL. 1 53 
 
 COMPOUND. 
 
 For ordinary use, a mixture of Assafoetida, Musk, Oil of Anise, 
 and Fish Oil, together with a few drops of the Oil of Rhodium, 
 is especially recommended by our most skilled trappers. This 
 preparation contains the various substances which are known to 
 attract the different fur bearing animals, and its use often 
 insures success where any one of the simple substances would ' 
 be ineffectual. 
 
 THE TRAIL. 
 
 The object of the "trail " consists in offering a leading scent 
 which, when followed, will bring the animal to the various traps, 
 and when properly made will be the means of drawing large 
 numbers of game from all quarters and from great distances, 
 whereas without it the traps might remain undiscovered. 
 
 Trails are sometimes made to connect a line of traps, as when 
 set along the banks of streams for mink, etc., at other times, as 
 in trapping the fox, for instance, they should extend from the 
 trap on all sides, like the spokes of a wheel from the hub, thus 
 covering considerable area, and rendering success more certain 
 than it would be without this precaution. 
 
 The combination " medicine " just described is excellent for 
 the purposes of a trail for minks, otter, muskrat, and many other 
 animals. 
 
 Soak a piece of meat, or piece of wood in the preparation, and 
 drag it along the ground between the traps. A dead fish smeared 
 with the fluid will also answer the same purpose. The soles of 
 the boots may also be smeared with the " medicine " and the trail 
 thus accomplished. Trails of various kinds are considered 
 under their respective and appropriate heads in the chapters on 
 animals, all of which will be found useful and effective. 
 
 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 In the following pages will be found full and ampxe directions 
 for the trapping of all our leading game, together with detailed 
 descriptions of peculiar habits of each species. The various 
 articles contain careful descriptions, whereby the species may 
 be readily recognized, and, in nearly every case, are accompa- 
 nied by faithful illustrations. We add also valuable directions 
 for the best manner of removing the skin of each animal, 
 this being a matter of considerable importance, as affecting 
 their pecuniary value. 
 
154 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 THE FOX. 
 
 Foremost in the list of animals noted for their sly craft, and 
 the hero of a host of fables and Avell-authenticated stories, in 
 which artful cunning gains the advantage over human intelli- 
 gence, Reynard, the fox, reigns supreme. There is scarcely a 
 professional trapper in the land who has not, in his day, been 
 hoodwinked by the wily strategy of this sly creature, whose 
 extreme cunning renders him the most difficult of all animals 
 to trap. The fox belongs to the Dog family, and there are 
 six varieties inhabiting the United States. The red species is 
 the most common and is too well-known to need a description 
 here. The Cross Fox considerably resembles the above, only 
 being much darker in color, the red hair being thickly speckled 
 with black. This species varies considerably in color in differ- 
 ent individuals, often much resembling the red variety, and 
 again approaching nearer in color to the Black or Silver Fox. 
 This variation, together with the name of the animial, has given 
 rise among trappers to the wide-spread belief of tlie animal 
 being a cross between the two species which it so nearly re- 
 sembles. It seems to be a permanent variety, however, the 
 term cross being applied, we believe, on account of a dark 
 marking on the back, between the shoulders of the animal, 
 suggestive of that title. The Silver or Black Fox is the most 
 beautiful and most rare of the genus, and yields the most 
 valuable fur produced in this country. Its color is black, with 
 the exception of the tip of the tail, which is white. The 
 Prairie Fox is the largest of the species. It inhabits the West- 
 ern Prairies, and in color resembles the common red variety, 
 only being a trifle yellower. 
 
 The Kit, or Swift Fox, is smaller than the Red, and abounds 
 in the Western States. 
 
 The Gray Fox is a Southern variety, and is very beautiful. 
 It is less daring and cunning tlian the Common Fox, and seldom 
 approaches a farm-yard, where it is in close proximity to a 
 dweUing. 
 
 The general habits and characteristics of all the foxes are 
 similar. For natural cunning they take the lead of all other 
 animals. They are all built for speed, and their senses of 
 smell and hearing are acutely developed. Their food consists 
 of wild fowl of all kinds, rabbits, squirrels, birds and their eggs, 
 together with many kinds of ripe fruits, *' sour grapes " not 
 included. They live in burrov/s, often usurped, or crevices 
 
THE FOX. 155 
 
 between rocks ; and their young, from three to nine in number, 
 are brought forth in March. 
 
 We are strongly tempted to narrate a few remarkable in- 
 stances of the animal's cunning, but we forbear for want of 
 space. Our reader must take it for granted that when he 
 attempts to trap a fox, he will be likely to find more than his 
 match in the superior craftiness of that animal. If the trap is 
 overturned and the bait gone, or if repeatedly sprung and found 
 empty, he must not be surprised or discouraged, for he is experi- 
 encing only what all other trappers have experienced before 
 him. There are instances on record where this knowing 
 creature has sprung the trap by dropping a stick upon the pan, 
 afterwards removing the suspended bait to enjoy it at his 
 leisure. His movements are as lithe and subtile as those of a 
 snake, and when " cornered " there is no telling what caper 
 that cunning instinct and subtlety of body will not lead him to p er- 
 form. When pursued by hounds he has been known to lead 
 them a long chase at full speed up to the crest of a hill : here 
 he leaps a shrub, swiftly as an arrow, and landing on the 
 ground on the opposite declivity quickly returns beneath the 
 brushwood and crouches down closely upon the ground. 
 Presently the hounds come along in full cry, and blazing scent 
 they dart over the shrub in full pursuit, dash down the hillside, 
 never stopping until at the bottom of the hill they find they are 
 off the trail. As soon as the hounds are passed, sly Reynard 
 cautiously takes to his legs : creeping adroitly back over the 
 brow of the hill, he runs for a considerable distance on his 
 back trail, and at last, after taking a series of long jumps there- 
 from returns to his covert at leisure. Page after page might 
 be filled to the glory of this creature's cunning, but enough has 
 been said to give the young trapper an insight into the charac- 
 ter of the animal he hopes to victimize, and prepare him for a 
 trial of skill which, without this knowledge, would be a most 
 one-sided affair. 
 
 We would not advise our young amateur to calculate very 
 confidently on securing a fox at the first attempt, but we can 
 truthfully vouch that if the creature can be caught at all, it can 
 be done by following the directions we now give. 
 
 One of the most essential things in the trapping of this, as 
 well as nearly all animals, is that the trap should be perfectly 
 clean and free fro7n rust. The steel trap No. 2, page 141 
 is the best for animals of the size of the Fox. The trap should 
 be washed in weak lye, being afterwards well greased and 
 finally smoked over burning hen's feathers. 
 
156 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 All this and even more precaution is necessary. No matter 
 
 how strongly scented the trap may be, with the smoke, or other 
 
 substances, a mere touch of the bare hand will leave a hw7ian 
 
 scent which the fox perceives as soon as the other, and this is 
 
 ' enough to deaden his enthusiasm over the most tempting bait. 
 
 On this account, it is necessary always to handle the trap 
 with buckskin gloves, never allowing the bare hand to come in 
 contact with it, on any account, after once prepared for setting. 
 
 Before arranging the trap for its work, it is necessary to con^ 
 struct what is called a " bed." There are several methods of 
 doing this ; but from all we can learn from the most experienced 
 trappers, the following is the most successful. The bed should 
 be made on flat ground, using any of the follov/ing substances : 
 Buckwheat chaff, which is the best, oat, wheat, or hay chaff, or 
 in lieu of these, moss or wood ashes. Let the bed be three feet in 
 diameter, and an inch and a half in depth. To insure success it is 
 the best plan to bait the bed itself for several days with scraps 
 of beef or cheese strewn upon, and near it. If the fox once 
 visits the place, discovers the tempting morsels and enjoys a good 
 meal unmolested, he will be sure to revisit the spot so long as he 
 finds a ^' free lunch " awaiting him. When he is found to come reg- 
 ularly and take the bait, he is as good as caught, provided our in- 
 structions are carefully followed. Take the trap, previously prepar- 
 ed as already described, chain it securely to a small log of wood 
 about two feet long. Dig a hole in the earth in the centre of 
 the bed, large enough to receive the trap, with its log, and chain. 
 Set the traps, supporting the pan by pushing some of the chaff 
 beneath it. Now lay a piece of paper over the pan and sprinkle 
 the chaff over it evenly and smoothly, until every trace of the 
 trap and its appendages is obliterated. Endeavor to make the 
 bed look as it has previously done, and bait it with the same 
 materials. Avoid treading much about the bed and step in the 
 same tracks as far as possible. Touch nothing with the naked 
 hands. Cover up all the footprints as much as possible, and 
 leave the trap to take care of itself and any intruder. If our 
 directions have been accurately followed, and due care has been 
 exercised on the part of the young trapper, there is every 
 probability that the next morning will reward him with his fox. 
 But if a day or two elapse without success^ it is well to resort to 
 the " scent baits" described on page 149. Take the trap out 
 of the bed, and with a feather smear it with melted beeswax, 
 or rub it with a little Oil of Rhodium, Assafoetida, or Musk. 
 Oil of Amber, and Lavender water are also used for the same 
 
THE FOX. 157 
 
 purpose by many professional trappers. 'Ihese are not al- 
 ways necessary but are often used as a last resort, and will 
 most always insure success. 
 
 Another method of baiting is shown in our page illustration 
 opposite, and consists in suspending the bait by a stick in such 
 a position that the fox will be obliged to step upon the trap 
 in order to reach it. The bed should be baited in this way 
 several times before the trap is set. This method is very com- 
 monly employed. 
 
 Another still, is to bury the dead body of a rabbit or bird 
 in loose earth, covering the whole with chaff. Sprinkle a few 
 drops of Musk, or Oil of Amber over the bed. After the fox 
 has taken the bait, the place should be rebaited and the trap in- 
 serted in the mound and covered with the chaff, being scented 
 as before. 
 
 Some trappers employ the followingmethod with good results : 
 The trap is set, in a spring or at the edge of a small shallow brook 
 and attached by a chain to a stake in the bank, the chain being 
 under water. There should be only about an inch and a half 
 of water over the trap, and its distance from the shore should 
 be about a foot and a half, or even less. In order to induce the 
 fox to place his foot in the trap it is necessary to cut a sod of 
 grass, just the size of the inside of the jaws of the trap, and place 
 it over the pan, so that it will j^roject above the water and offer 
 a tempting foot rest for the animal while he reaches for the 
 bait which rests in the water just beyond. To accomplish this 
 device without springing the trap by the weight of the sod, it is 
 necessary to brace up the pan from beneath with a small per- 
 pendicular stick, sufficiently to neutralize the pressure from 
 above. The bait may be a dead rabbit or bird thrown on the 
 water outside of the trap and about a foot from it, being secured 
 by a string and peg. If the fox spies the bait he will be almost 
 sure to step upon the sod to reach it, and thus get caught. 
 
 If none of these methods are successful, the young trapper 
 may at least content himself with the idea that the particular 
 fox he is after is an old fellow and is " not to be caught with 
 chaff" or any thing else, — for if these devices will not secure 
 him nothing will. If he is a young and comparatively unso- 
 phisticated specimen, he will fall an easy victim to any of the 
 foregoing stratagems. 
 
 Athough steel traps are generally used in the capture of foxes, 
 A cleverly constructed and baited dead-fall such as is described 
 on page 113. will often do capital service in that direction. By 
 
158 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 arranging and baiting the trap as therein described, even a fox 
 is likely to beco?ne its prey. 
 
 To skin the fox the pelt should be first ripped down each 
 hind leg to the vent. The skin being cut loose around this 
 point, the bone of the tail should next be removed. This 
 may be done by holding a split stick tightly over the bone after 
 which the latter may be easily pulled out of the skiji. 
 
 The hide should then be drawn back, and carefully removed, 
 v/orking with caution around the legs, and particularly so about 
 the eyes, ears, and lips when these points are reached. The skin 
 should be stretched as described on page 273. 
 
 THE WOLF. 
 
 The United States are blessed with several species of this ani- 
 mal. The Grey Wolf, which is the largest, and the smaller, Prairie 
 Wolf or Coyote, being the most commonly known. There are also 
 the White Wolf, Black Wolf and the Texan or Red Wolf. In 
 outward form they all bear a considerable resemblance to each 
 other, and their habits are generally similar in the different va- 
 rieties. 
 
 Wolves are fierce and dangerous animals, and are very 
 powerful of limb and fleet of foot. They are extremely cow- 
 ardly in character, and will seldom attack man or animal except 
 when by their greater numbers they would be sure of victory. 
 Wolves are found in almost every quarter of the globe. Moun- 
 tain and plain, field, jungle and prairie are alike infested with 
 them, and they hunt in united bands, feeding upon almost any 
 animal which by their combined attacks they can overpower. 
 
 Their inroads upon herds and sheep folds are sometimes hor- 
 rifying, and a single wolf has been known to kill as many as 
 forty sheep in a single night, seemingly from mere blood-thirsty 
 desire. 
 
 In the early colonization of America, wolves ran wild over the 
 country in immense numbers, and were a source of great 
 danger; but now, owing to wide-spread civiHzation, they have 
 disappeared from the more settled localities and are chiefly 
 found in Western wilds and prairie lands. 
 
 The Grey Wolf is the largest and most formidable represen- 
 tative of the Dog tribe on this continent. Its general appear- 
 ance is truthfully given in our drawing. Its length, exclusive of 
 the tail, is about four feet, the length of the tail being about a 
 foot and a half. Its color varies from yellowish grey to almost 
 
THE WOLF. 
 
 159 
 
 white in the northern countries, in which latitude the animal is 
 sometimes found of an enormous size, measuring nearly seven 
 feet in length. The fur is coarse and shaggy about the neck and 
 haunches, and the tail is bushy. They abound in the region 
 east of the Rocky Mountains and northward, and travel in packs 
 of hundreds in search of prey. Bisons, wild horses, deer and 
 even bears fall victims to their united fierceness, and human 
 beings, too, often fall a prey to their ferocious attacks. 
 
 The Coyote, or Common Prairie Wolf, also known as the Bur- 
 rowing Wolf, as its name implies inhabits the Western plains 
 and prairies. They are much smaller than the Grey Wolf, and 
 not so dangerous. They travel in bands and . unitedly attack 
 
 
 W^'^'^mi:' "^'^ 
 
 whatever animal they desire to kill. Their homes are made in 
 burrows which they excavate in the ground. The Texan Wolf 
 inhabits the latitude of Texas and southward. It is of a 
 tawny red color and nearly as large as the grey species, possess- 
 ing the same savage nature. 
 
 In April or May the female wolf retires to her burrow or den, 
 and her young, from six to ten in number, are brought forth. 
 
 The wolf is almost as sly and cunning as the fox, and the 
 same caution is required in trapping the animal. They are ex- 
 tremely keen scented, and the mere touch of a human hand on 
 the trap is often enough to preclude the possibility of capture. 
 A mere footprint, or the scent of tobacco juice, they look upon 
 
l6o STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 with great suspicion, and the presence of either will often pre- 
 vent success. 
 
 The same directions given in regard to trapping the fox are 
 equally adapted for the wolf. The trap (size No. 4, page 141) 
 should be smoked or smeared with beeswax or blood, and set in 
 a bed of ashes or other material as therein described, covering 
 with moss, chaff, leaves or some other light substance. The 
 clog should be fully twice as heavy as that used for the fox. 
 Some trappers rub the traps with " brake leaves," sweet fern, or 
 even skunk's cabbage. Gloves should always be worn in hand- 
 ling the traps, and all tracks should be obhterated as much as 
 if a fox were the object sought to be secured. 
 
 A common way of securing the wolf consists in setting the 
 trap in a spring or puddle of water, throwing the dead body of 
 some large animal in the water beyond the trap in such a position 
 that the wolf will be obliged to tread upon the trap, in order to 
 reach the bait. This method is described both under the head 
 of the Fox and the Bear. 
 
 Another plan is to fasten the bait between two trees which 
 are very close together, setting a trap on each side and care- 
 fully concealing them as already directed, and securing each to 
 a clog of about twenty pounds in weight. The enclosure de- 
 scribed on page 144 is also successful. 
 
 There are various scent or trail baits used in trapping the 
 wolf. Oil of Assafoetida is by many trappers considered the 
 best, but Oil of Rhodium, powdered fennel, fenugreek and 
 Cummin Oil are also much used. It is well to smear a little of 
 the first mentioned oil near the traps, using anyone of the other 
 substances, or indeed a mixture of them all, for the trail. This 
 may be made by smearing the preparation on the sole of the 
 boots and walking in the direction of the traps, or by dragging 
 from one trap to another a piece of meat scented with the sub 
 stance, as described under the head of Mink. 
 
 The wolf is an adept at feigning death, playing "'possum" 
 with a skill which would do credit to that veritable animal itself. 
 
 A large dead-fall, constructed of logs, page 17, when 
 skilfully scented and baited, will often allure a wolf into its 
 clutches, and a very strong twitch-up, with a noose formed of 
 heavy wire, or a strip of stout calf hide, will successfully cap- 
 ture the crafty creature. 
 
 ^ In skinning the wolf the hide may be removed either by first 
 ripping up the belly, or in a circular piece, as described in con- 
 nection with the fox, both methods being much used. The 
 
THE PUMA. l6"l 
 
 board and hoop stretchers used in preparing the skin are de- 
 scribed on pages 273 and 275. 
 
 THE PUMA. 
 
 The puma, commonly known also as the panther or cougar, is 
 the largest American representative of the Cat tribe, and for this 
 reason is often dignified by the name of the "American 
 Lion,'^ It is found more or less abundantly throughout the 
 United States ; and although not generally considered a danger- 
 ous foe to mankind, it has often been known in the wild dis- 
 tricts to steal upon the traveller unawares, and in many instan- 
 ces human beings have fallen a prey to the powerful claws and 
 teeth of this powerful animal. 
 
 The life of the puma is mostly in the trees. Crouching upon 
 the branches it watches for, or steals, cat-like, upon its prey. 
 Should a solitary animal pass within reach, the puma will not 
 hesitate in pouncing upon the unfortunate creature; but if a 
 herd of animals, or party of men, should be travelling together, 
 the caution of the brute asserts itself, and he will often dog their 
 footsteps for a great distance, in hopes of securing a straggler. 
 Birds are struck down by a single blow of the puma's ready 
 paw, and so quick are his movements that even though a bird 
 has risen on the wing, he can often make one of his wonderful 
 bounds, and with a light, quick stroke, arrest the winged prey 
 before it has time to soar beyond reach. The puma is a good 
 angler. Sitting by the water's edge he watches for his victims, 
 and no sooner does an unfortunate fish swim within reach, than 
 the nimble paw is outstretched, and it is swept out of the water 
 on dry land, and eagerly devoured. 
 
 A puma has been known to follow the track of travellers for 
 days together, only daring to show itself at rare intervals, and 
 never endeavoring to make an attack except through stealth. The 
 animal will often approach cautiously upon a traveller until suf- 
 ficiently near to make its fatal spring ; but if the pursued party 
 suddenly turn round and face the crawling creature, the beast 
 becomes discomfited at once, and will retreat from the gaze, 
 which seems to it a positive terror. So long as a puma can be 
 kept in sight, no danger need be feared from the animal, but it 
 will improve every opportunity of springing unobservedly upon 
 a heedless passer by. The total length of the puma is six feet 
 and a half, of which the tail occupies a little over two feet. Its 
 color is of a uniform light tawny tint, fading into light grey on 
 
l63 
 
 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.' 
 
 the under parts, and the tip of the tail is black. The puma is 
 one of the few members of the Cat tribe, which are without the 
 usual spots or stripes so observable in the tiger and leopard. 
 The lion has the same uniformity of color, and it is perhaps part- 
 ly on that account that the panther is so often known as the 
 American Hon. In infancy the young pumas possess decided 
 tiger-like markings, and leopard-like spots, but these disappear 
 altogether as the animal increases in size. The cougar has 
 
 learned by experience a wholesom.e fear of man, and as civiliza- 
 tion has extended throughout our country, the animals have been 
 forced to retire from the neighborhood of human habitations 
 and hide themselves in thick, uncultivated forest lands. 
 
 Sometimes, however, the animal, urged by fierce hunger, will 
 venture on a marauding expedition for several miles, and al- 
 though not an object of personal dread to the inhabitants, he 
 often becomes a pestilent neighbor to the farmer, committing 
 great ravages among his flocks and herds, and making sad havoc 
 in his poultry yard. It is not the fortune of every puma, how- 
 ever, to reside in the neighborhood of such easy prey as pigs, 
 sheep and poultry, and the greater number of these animals are 
 
THE PUMA. Ib3 
 
 forced to depend for their subsistence on their own success in 
 chasing or surprising the various animals on v/hich they feed. 
 
 When a puma is treed by hunters, it is said to show gre.it 
 skill in selecting a spot wherein it shall be best concealed from 
 the gazers below, and will even draw the neighboring branches 
 about its bodv to hide itself from the aim of the hunter's rifle. 
 While thus lying upon the branches the beast is almost invisi- 
 ble from below, as its fur, when seen, harmonizes so well with the 
 the bark which covers the boughs, that the one can scarcely be 
 distinguished from the other. 
 
 The puma loves to hide in the branches of trees, and from 
 this eminence to launch itself upon the doomed animal that may 
 pass within its reach. It may, therefore, be easily imagined 
 how treacherous a foe the creature may be when ranging at will 
 among the countless trees and jungles of our American forests. 
 
 Although so stealthy and sly a creature the cougar possesses 
 very little cunning and is easily trapped. The Gun trap, page 20, 
 is commonly and successfully employed in South America in the 
 capture of the jaguar, as our title illustration, page 15, repre- 
 sents, and it may also be used with the same success in trap- 
 ping the puma. The Bow trap, page 23, and the dead-fall 
 described in the early part of the book, will all be found to work 
 admirably in the destruction of this treacherous beast. 
 
 The animal may be entrapped alive, should any of our young 
 trappers dare to try the experiment. 
 
 There are two ways of accomplishing this. The first is by 
 the aid of a huge coop of logs, as described on page 30 or 33, 
 and the other by the Pit-fall, as exemplified on page 31 . Huge 
 twitch-ups may also be constructed, using very strong wire. 
 The bait may consist of a fowl, sheep's head, or the heart of 
 any animal. Fresh meat of any kind will answer the purpose, 
 and in the case of the Pit-fall a live fowl is preferable to a dead 
 one as it will attract the puma by its motions, or by its cackling, 
 and thus induce him to spring upon his prey, which will pre- 
 cipitate him to the bottom of the pit and thus effect his capture. 
 
 They are commonly taken with the steel trap. The puma 
 seldom leaves the vicinity of the carcass of an animal it has kill- 
 ed until it is all devoured. When such a carcass can be found 
 the capture of the beast is easily effected. Set the trap, size No. 
 5, page 143, near the remains, and cover the carcass with leaves. 
 The next visit of the animal will find him more attached to the . 
 place than ever, — so much so that he will be unable to ^' teaf 
 himself away. '' 
 
164 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 The skin of the puma is properly removed by first cutting up 
 the belly as described under the Beaver, using great care about 
 the head and face. Use the hoop stretcher, page 
 
 THE CANADIAN LYNX. 
 
 The lynx represents another of the Cat tribe, and as its name 
 impHes is a native of the regions north of the United States, 
 although sometimes found in upper Maine and on the lower 
 borders of the great lakes. It is commonly known throughout 
 Canada as the Peshoo, or " Le Chat.'' 
 
 Our illustration is a truthful representation of the animal. Its 
 total length exceeds three feet, and its tail is a mere stub. The 
 fur is thick, and the hairs are long, the general color being grey, 
 sprinkled with black. The legs are generally darker than the 
 body, and the ears are often edged with white. The limbs and 
 muscles are very powerful, the paws are very large for the size 
 of the animal, and are furnished with strong white claws,, which 
 are imbedded in the fur of the feet when not in use, they are 
 shown in our illustration. The ears of the lynx form a distinct 
 feature, by which the animal could be easily identified ; they are 
 long and tipped with stiff projecting hairs, giving the creature a 
 Very odd appearance. 
 
 The peshoo can not be said to be a very dangerous animal, 
 unless it is attacked, when it becomes a most ferocious antag- 
 onist. The writer knew of a gentleman who was pounced upon 
 and very nearly killed by (5ne of these infuriated creatures, and 
 there are many like instances on record. 
 
 The principal food of the lynx consists of the smaller quad- 
 rupeds, the American hare being its favorite article of diet. It 
 is a good swimmer, and a most agile climber, chasing its prey 
 among the branches with great stealth and dexterity. Like the 
 wolf, fox, and many other flesh eating-animals, the lynx does 
 not content itself with the creatures which fall by the stroke of 
 its own talons, or the grip of its own teeth, but will follow the 
 trail of the puma, in its nocturnal quest after prey, and thankfully 
 partake of the feast which remains after its predecessor has sat- 
 isfied its appetite. 
 
 While running at full speed, the lynx presents a most 
 ludicrous appearance, owing to its peculiar manner of leaping. 
 It progresses in successive bounds, with its back slightly arched, 
 aud all the feet striking the ground nearly at the same instant. 
 Powerful as the animal is, it is easily killed by a blow on the 
 
THE CANADA LYNX. 
 
 i6s 
 
 back, a slight stick being a sufficient weapon wherewith to destroy 
 the creature. For this reason the " Dead-fall " is particularly 
 adapted for its capture, and is very successful, as the animal 
 possesses very little cunning, and will enter an enclosure of any 
 
 kind widicut the slightest compunction, when a tempting bait is 
 in view. The dead-fail should of course be constructed on a 
 large scale, and it is a good plan to have the enclosure deep, and 
 the bait as far back as will necessitate the animal being well under 
 the suspended log in order to reach it. The bait may consist 
 of a dead quadruped or of fresh meat of any kind. 
 
 The Gun trap, page 20, and the Bow trap, page 23, will 
 also be found efficient, and a very powerful twitch-up, constructed 
 from a stout pole and extra strong wire will also serve to good 
 purpose. The lynx is not so prolific as many of the feline tribe, 
 the number of its young seldom exceeding two, and this only 
 once a year. The fur of the animal is valuable for the purposes 
 to which the feline skin is generally adapted, and commands a 
 fair price in the market. Those who hunt or trap the lynx will 
 do well to choose the winter months for the time of their oper- 
 ations, as during the cold season the animal possesses a thicker 
 ind warmer fur than it offers in the summer months. 
 When the steel trap is used, it should be of size No. 4, page 
 12 
 
1 65 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 141, set at the opening of a pen of stakes, the bait being placed 
 at the back of the enclosure in such a position, as that the animal 
 will be obliged to step upon the pan of the trap in order to reach 
 it. Any of the devices described under " Hints on Baiting " 
 will be found successful. 
 
 The skin of the animal maybe removed as directed in the case 
 of the fox, being drawn off the body whole, or it may be removed 
 after the manner of the beaver, and similarly stretched. 
 
 THE WILD CAT. 
 
 This animal is one of the most wide-spread species of the Cat 
 tribe, being found not only in America, but throughout nearly 
 the whole of Europe as well as in Northern Asia. In many 
 parts of the United States, where the wild cat was wont to 
 flourish, it has become exterminated, owing to civilization and 
 the destruction of forest lands. 
 
 Many naturalists are of the opinion that the wild cat is the 
 original progenitor of our domestic cat, but there is much differ- 
 ence of opinion in regard to the subject. Although they bear 
 great resemblance to each other, there are several points of dis- 
 tinction between the two; one of the most decfded differences 
 being in the comparative length of the tails. The tail of the 
 wild cat is little more than half the length of that of the domes- 
 tic cat, and much more bushy. 
 
 The color of the wild animal is much more uniform than in 
 the great raft of "domestic" mongrel specimens which make 
 night hideous with their discordant yowls, although we some- 
 times see a high bred individual which, if his tail was cut off at 
 half its length, might easily pass as an example of the wild va- 
 riety. 
 
 The ground tint of the fur in the wild cat is yellowish 
 grey, diversified with dark streaks over the body and limbs, 
 much after the appearance of the so-called " tiger cat." A row 
 of dark streaks and spots extends along the spine, and the tail 
 is thick, short and bushy, tipped with black and encircled with a 
 number of rings of a dark hue. In some individuals the mark- 
 ings are less distinct, and they are sometimes altogether want- 
 ing, but in the typical wild cat they are quite prominent. The 
 fur is rather long and thick, particularly so during the winter 
 season, and always in the colder northern regions. 
 
 The amount of havoc which these creatures often occasion is 
 surprising, and their nocturnal inroads, in poultry yards and 
 
WILD CAT. 
 
 167 
 
 sheep folds, render them most hated pests to farmers in the 
 countries where these animals abound. They seem to have a spe- 
 cial appetite for the heads of fowls, and will often decapitate a half 
 ciozen in a single night, leaving the bodies in otherwise good con- 
 dition to tell the story of their midnight murders. The home of 
 the wild cat is made in some cleft of rock, or in the hollow of some 
 aged tree, from which the creature issues in the dark hours and 
 starts upon its marauding excursions. Its family numbers from 
 three to six, and the female parent is smaller than the male, the 
 total length of the latter being three feet. 
 
 Inhabiting the most lonely and inaccessible ranges of rock 
 and mountain, the wild cat is seldom seen during the daytime. 
 At night, like its domestic relative, he prowls far and wide, 
 walking with the same stealthy step and hunting his game in the 
 same tiger-like manner. He is by no means a difficult animal 
 to trap, being easily deceived and taking a bait without any hesi- 
 tation. The wild cat haunts the shores of lakes and rivers, 
 and it is here that the traps may be set for them. Having 
 caught and killed one of the colony, the rest of them can be 
 easily taken if the body of the dead victim be left near their 
 hunting ground and surrounded with the traps carefully set and 
 concealed beneath leaves moss or the like. Every wild cat 
 
1 68 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 that is in the neighborhood will be certain to visit the body, and 
 if the traps are rightly arranged many will be caught. The trap 
 No. 3, page 141 is generally used. We would caution the young 
 trapper in his approach to an entrapped wild cat, as the 
 strength and ferocity of this animal under such circumstances, 
 or when otherwise "hard pressed," is perfectly amazing. When 
 caught in a trap they spring with terrible fury at any one who 
 approaches them, not waiting to be assailed, and when cornered 
 or hemmed in by a hunter they will often turn upon their pur- 
 suer, and springing at his face will attack him with most con- 
 sum.mate fury, often inflicting serious and sometimes fatal 
 wounds. When hunted and attacked by dogs, the wild cat is 
 a most desperate and untiring fighter, and extremely difficult to 
 kill, for which reason it has been truthfully said that "if a tam.e 
 cat has nine lives, a wild cat must have a dozen." 
 
 The twitch-up, erected on a large scale, is utilized to a con- 
 siderable extent in England in the capture of these animals ; 
 and these, together with steel traps and dead-falls, are about the 
 only machines used for their capture. We would suggest the 
 garrote, bow and gun trap also as being very effective. The 
 bait may consist of the head of a fowl or a piece of rabbit or 
 fowl flesh : or, indeed, flesh of almost any kind will answer, par- 
 ticularly of the bird kind. 
 
 In skinning the wildcat the same directions given under the 
 head of the Fox may be followed, or the pelt may be ripped up 
 the belly and spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275. 
 
 THE BEAR. 
 
 There are several species of the Bear tribe which inhabit our 
 continent, the most prominent of which are the Grizzly, and 
 the Musquaw or common Black Bear. There is no other animal 
 of this country which is more widely and deservedly dreaded 
 than the grizzly bear. There are other creatures, the puma and 
 wild cat, for instance, which are dangerous v/hen cornered or 
 wounded, but they are not given to open and deliberate attack 
 upon human beings. . The grizzly, however, or " Ephraim," as 
 he is commonly termed by trappers, often displays a most un- 
 pleasant readiness to attack and pursue a man, even in the face 
 of fire arms. In many localities, however, where hunting has 
 been pursued to considerable extent, these animals have learned 
 from experience a wholesome fear of man, and are not so ready 
 to assume the offensive, but a " wounded^'' grizzly is one of the 
 
THE BEAR. 169 
 
 most horrible antagonists of which it is possible to conceive, 
 rushing upon its victim with terrible fury, and dealing most tear- 
 ing and heavy blows with its huge claws. 
 
 In length this formidable animal often exceeds eight feet, 
 and its color varies from yellowish to brownish black, and some 
 specimens are found of a dirty grey color. 
 
 The legs are usually darker than the rest of the body, and 
 the face is generally of a lighter tint. The fore limbs of the 
 animal are immensely powerful ; and the foot of a full-grown in- 
 dividual is fully eighteen inches long, and armed with claws five 
 inches in length. The grizzly inhabits the Rocky Mountain 
 regions and northward, being found in considerable numbers in 
 the western part of British America. Its hair is thick and 
 coarse, except in the young animaK which possesses a beautiful 
 fur. 
 
 All other creatures seem to stand in fear of this formidable 
 beast. Even the huge bison, or buffalo, of the Western 
 Prairies sometimes falls a victim to the grizzly bear, and the 
 very imprint of a bear's foot upon the soil is a warning which not 
 even a hungry wolf will disregard. 
 
 Its food consists of whatever animal it can seize, whether 
 human or otherwise. He also devours green corn, nuts, and 
 fruits of all kinds. In his earlier years he is a good climber, 
 and will ascend a tree with an agility which is surprisingly incon- 
 sistent with the unwieldy proportions of his body. 
 
 The average weight of a full-grown grizzly is over eight hun- 
 dred pounds, and the girth around the body is about eight feet. 
 
 The Black bear, or Musquaw, which we illustrate is common 
 throughout nearly all the half settled-districts of North Amer- 
 ica. But as the fur and fat are articles of great commercial 
 value, the hunters and trappers have exercised their craft with 
 such skill and determination that the animals are gradually de- 
 creasing in numbers. The total length of the black bear is sel- 
 dom more than six feet, and its fur is smooth and glossy in ap- 
 pearance. The color of the animal is rightly conveyed by its 
 name, the cheeks only partaking of a reddish fawn color. 
 
 It possesses little of that fierceness which characterizes the 
 grizzly, being naturally a very quiet and retiring creature, keep- 
 ing itself aloof from mankind, and never venturing near his 
 habitations except when excited by the pangs of fierce hunger. 
 When pursued or cornered it becomes a dangerous antagonist ; 
 and its furious rage often results in fearful catastrophes to both 
 man and beast. Nothing but a rifle ball in the right spot will 
 
lyo 
 
 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 check the creature, when wrought up to this pitch of fury, and 
 an additional wound only serves to increase its terrible ferocity. 
 Bear-chasing is an extremely dangerous sport ; and there are 
 few bear-hunters in the land, however skilful, but what can 
 show scars from the claws or teeth of some exasperated bruin. 
 The food of the black bear is mostly of a vegetable character, 
 
 animal diet not being indulged in unless pressed by hunger. At 
 such times it seems to especially prefer a young pig as the most 
 desirable delicacy; and even full-grown hogs, it is said, are 
 sometimes lifted from their pens and carried off in his deadly 
 embrace. 
 
 Honey is his especial delight ; and he will climb trees with 
 great agility in . order to reach a nest of bees, there being fev/ 
 obstacles which his ready claws and teeth will not remove where 
 that dainty is in view. He is also very fond of acorns, berries, 
 and fruits of all kinds. 
 
 The young of the bear are produced in January or February, 
 and are from one to four in number. They are very small and 
 covered with grey hair, which coat they retain until they are one 
 year of age. The flesh of the bear is held in high esteem among 
 hunters, and v/hen propeHy prepared is greatly esteemed by 
 epicures. 
 
 The fat of the animal is much used under the title of " Bear 
 
THE BEAR. 171 
 
 grease," and is believed to be an infallible hair rejuvenator, 
 and therefore becomes a valuable article of commerce. 
 
 The bear generally hibernates during the winter, choosing some 
 comfortable residence which it has prepared in the course of 
 the summer, or perhaps betaking itself to the hollow of some 
 tree. Sometimes, in case of early snow, the track of the bears 
 may be distinguished, and if followed will probably lead to their 
 dens, in which they can be secured with logs until it is desired 
 to kill them. 
 
 The black bear has a habit of treading in a beaten track, 
 which is easily detected by the eye of an experienced hunter 
 or trapper, and turned to good account in trapping the animal. 
 
 There are various modes of accomplishing this result. The 
 bear Dead-fall, described on page 17, is, perhaps, the most 
 commonly used, and the Pit-fall, page 31, and " Giant Coop " 
 trap are also excellent. The Gun trap and stone dead-fall, page 
 20, we also confidently recommend. When a steel trap is 
 used it requires the largest size, especially made for the pur- 
 pose. It should be supplied with a short and very strong chain 
 firmly secured to a very heavy clog or grappling-iron page 147. 
 If secured to a tree or other stationary object, the captured 
 animal is likely to gnaw or tear his foot away, if, indeed, he 
 does not break the trap altogether by the quick tightening of the 
 chain. The clog should be only heavy enough to be an inipedi- 
 jnent^ and may consist of a log or heavy stone. The grappling- 
 iron, however, is more often used in connection with the 
 bear trap. It is a common method in trapping the bear to con- 
 struct a pen of upright branches, laying the trap at its opening, 
 and covering it with leaves. The bait is then placed at the back 
 in such a position that the animal, on- reaching for it, will be 
 sure to put his foot in the trap. 
 
 An experienced trapper soon discovers natural openings be- 
 tween rocks or trees, which may be easily modified, and by the 
 addition of a few logs so improved upon as to answer his pur- 
 IDOse as well as a more elaborate enclosure, with much less 
 trouble. Any arrangement whereby the bear will be obliged to 
 tread upon the trap in order to secure the bait, is, of course, all 
 that is required. The bait may be hung on the edge of a rock 
 five feet from the ground, and the trap set on a smaller rock be- 
 neath it. He will thus be almost sure to rest his forefoot on 
 the latter rock in order to reach the bait, and will thus be cap- 
 tured. 
 
 Another way is to set the trap in a spring of water or swampy 
 
173 STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 
 
 Spot. Lay a lump of moss over the pan, suspending the bait 
 beyond the trap. The moss will offer a natural foot-rest, and 
 the offending paw will be secured. 
 
 Bears possess but little cunning, and will enter any nook or 
 comer without the slightest compunction when in quest of food. 
 They are especially fond of sweets, and, as we have said, are 
 strongly attracted by honey, being able to scent it from a great 
 distance. On this account it is always used, when possible, by 
 trappers in connection with other baits. These may consist of a 
 fowl, fruit, or flesh of any kind, and the honey should be 
 smeared over it. Skunk calDbage is said to be an excellent bait 
 for the bear ; and in all cases a free use of the Oil of Anise 
 page 152, sprinkling it about the traps, is also advisable. 
 Should the device fail, it is well to make a trail (see page 153) 
 in several directions from the trap, and extending for several 
 rods. A piece of wood, wet with Oil of Anise, will answer for 
 the purpose. 
 
 The general method of skinning the bear consists in first cut- 
 ting from the front of the lower jaw down the belly to the vent, 
 after which the hide may be easily removed . The hoop-stretcher 
 page 275, will then come into good use in the drying and pre- 
 paring of the skin for market. 
 
 THE RACCOON. 
 
 Although allied to the Bear family, this animal possesses much 
 in common with the fox, as regards its general disposition and 
 character. It has the same slyness and cunning, the same stealthy 
 tread, besides an additional mischievousness and greed. It is 
 too common to need any description here, being found plenti- 
 fully throughout nearly the whole United States. The bushy tail, 
 with its dark rings, will be sufficient to identify the animal in 
 any community. Raccoon hunts form the subject of many very 
 exciting and laughable stories, and a " coon chase," to this day 
 is a favorite sport all over the country. The raccoon, or " coon," 
 as he is popularly styled, is generally hunted by moonlight. 
 An experienced dog is usually set on the trail and the fugitive 
 soon seeks refuge in a tree, when its destruction is almost cer- 
 tain. Hence the term " treed coon," as appHed to an individual 
 when in a dangerous predicament. Besides possessing many of the 
 peculiarities of the fox, the *' coon " has the additional accom- 
 plishment of being a most agile and expert climber, holding so 
 firmly to the limb by its sharp claws as to defy all attempts to 
 shake it off. 
 
THE RACCOON. I73 
 
 The home of the raccoon is generally in a hollow tree ; the 
 young are brought forth in May, and are from four to six in 
 number. 
 
 In captivity this animal makes a very cunning and interesting 
 pet, being easily tamed to follow its master, and when dainties are 
 in view becomes a most adroit pickpocket. Its food is extensive 
 in variety, thus making it quite an easy matter to keep the creature 
 in confinement. Nuts and fruits of all kinds it eagerly devours, 
 as well as bread, cake and jDotatoes. It manifests no hesitation 
 at a meal of rabbit, rat, squirrel, or bird, and rather likes it for a 
 change, and when he can partake of a dessert of honey or mo- 
 lasses his enjoyment knows no bounds. Frogs, fresh water 
 clams, green corn, and a host of other delicacies come within 
 the range of his diet, and he may sometimes be seen digging 
 from the sand the eggs of the soft-shelled turtle, which he greedily 
 sucks. We cordially recommend the coon as a pet. He becomes 
 very docile, and is full of cunning ways, and if the young ones 
 can be traced to their hiding-place in somiC hollow tree, and 
 secured, if not too young, v/e could warrant our readers a great 
 deal of real sport and pleasure in rearing the little animals and 
 watching their ways 
 
 In cold climates the raccoon lies dormant in the winter, only 
 venturing out on occasional mild days ; but in the Southern States 
 he is active throughout the year^ prowling about by day and by 
 night in search of his food^ inserting his little sharp nose into 
 every corner, and feeling with his slender paws between stones 
 for spiders and bugs of all kinds. He spies the innocent frog 
 with his head just out of the water, and pouncing upon him, he 
 despatches him without a moment's warning. There seems to 
 be no limits to his rapacity, for he is ahvays eating and always 
 hungry. The print of the raccoon's paw in the mud or snow 
 is easily recognized, much resembling the impression made by 
 the foot of a babe. 
 
 The best season for trapping the coon is late in the fall, win- 
 ter, and early spring, or from and between the months of October 
 and April. During this time the pelts are in excellent condi- 
 tion Early in the spring when the snow is disappearing, the 
 coons come out of their hiding places to start on their foraging 
 tours ; and at this time are particularly susceptible to a tempting 
 bait, and they may be successfully trapped in the following 
 manner : — 
 
 Take a steel trap and set it on the edge of some pool, or 
 stream where the coons are known to frequent : let it be an inch 
 
174 
 
 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 or so under the water, and carefully chain ed to a clog. The 
 bait may consist of a fish, frog, or head of a fowl, scented with 
 Oil of Anise, and suspended over the traps about two feet 
 higher, by the aid of a sapling secured in the ground. (See 
 title page at the head of this section.) The object of this is to 
 induce the animal to jump for it, when he will land with his foot 
 in the trap. Another method is to construct a V shaped pen^ 
 
 set the trap near the entrance, and, fastening the bait in the 
 angle, cover the trap loosely with leaves, and scent the bait as be- 
 fore with the anise. The trap should be at such a distance from 
 the bait that the animal, in order to reach it, will be obliged to 
 tread upon the pan, which he will be sure to do, his greed over- 
 coming his discretion. Any arrangement v/hereby the animal 
 will be obliged to tread upon the trap in order to reach the bait 
 will be successful. 
 
 The beaten track of the coons may often be discovered in 
 soft ground, and a trap carefully concealed therein will soon secure 
 its victim. Another method is to set the trap near the coon 
 tracks, spreading a few drops of anise on the pan and covering 
 the whole with leaves. The coon, attracted by the scent, will 
 
THE BADGER. 1 75 
 
 feel around in the leaves for the bait, and thus " put his foot 
 in it." 
 
 In the South they construct a coon trap from a hollow log, 
 either having the ends suppHed with lids, which fall just Hke 
 the Rat trap page io6 as the animal passes through, or else 
 constructed with nooses, similar to the Box-snare, page 56. 
 Box traps of a style similar to that described on page 103 are 
 also excellent, and a strong twitch-up, of any of the various 
 kinds we have described, will be found to work admirably. 
 
 Many of the suggestions in trapping the mink, page I90,will 
 be found equally serviceable in regard to the coon. 
 
 The skin of this animal should be removed as recommended 
 for the fox, and similarly stretched. It may also be skinned by 
 first ripping up the belly, and spread on a hoop stretcher. 
 page 275. 
 
 THE BADGER. 
 
 The American Badger is mostly confined to the North- 
 western parts of the United States, and it is a curious little 
 animal. In size its body is slightly smaller than the fox. Its 
 general color is grey, approaching to black on the head and 
 legs. There is a white streak extending from the tip of the 
 animal's long nose over the top of the head and fading off near 
 the shoulders. The cheeks are also white, and a broad and 
 definitely marked black line extends from the snout back 
 around the eyes ending at the neck. The grey of this animal 
 is produced from the mixture of the varied tints of its fur, each 
 hair presenting a succession of shades. At the root it is of a 
 deep grey; this fades into a tawny yellow, and is followed by a 
 black, the hair being finally tipped with white. The fur is 
 much used in the manufacture of fine paint brushes, a good 
 " Badger blender " being a most useful accessory in the 
 painter's art. The badger is slow and clumsy in its actions, 
 except when engaged in digging, his capacities in this direc- 
 tion being so great as to enable him to sink himself into the 
 ground with marvellous rapidity. The nest of the animal is 
 made in the burrow, and the young are three or four in number. 
 His diet is as variable and extensive as that of the coon, and 
 consists of anything in any way eatable. Snails, worms, rats, 
 mice and moles, seem to have a particular attraction for him ; 
 and he seems to take especial delight in unearthing the stores 
 of the wild bees, devouring honey, wax and grubs together, and 
 
176 
 
 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 caring as little for the stings of the angry bees as he would of 
 the bills of so many mosquitoes, the thick coating of fur 
 forming a perfect protection against his winged antagonists. 
 The badger is very susceptible to human influence, and~ can be 
 effectually tamed with but little trouble. Although his general 
 appearance would not indicate it, he is a sly and cunning animal, 
 and not easily captured in a trap of any kind. He has been 
 known to set at defiance all the traps that were set for him, and 
 
 to devour the baits without suffering for his audacity. He will 
 sometimes overturn a trap and spring it from the under side, 
 before attempting to remove the bait. Although not quite as 
 crafty as the fox, it is necessary to use much of the same 
 caution in trapping the badger, as a bare trap seldom v/ins 
 more than a look of Qontcmpt from the wary animal. 
 
 The usual mode of catching the creature is to set the trap 
 size No 3 at the mouth of its burrow, carefully covering it 
 with loose earth and securing it by a chain to a stake. Any of 
 the methods used in trapping the fox will also be found to 
 work admirably. The dead-fall or garrote will also do good 
 service. Bait with a rat, mouse, or with whatever else the 
 unimal is especially fond, and scent with Oil of Anise or Musk. 
 In early spring, while the ground is still hard, badgers are 
 easily captured by flooding their burrows. After being satis- 
 fied that the animal is in its* hole, proceed to pour in pailful] 
 after pailful of water at the entrance. He will not long be able 
 
THE BEAVER. 1 77 
 
 to Stand this sort of thing, and he may be secured as he makes 
 his exit at the opening of the burrow. 
 
 The skin should be removed whole, as in the case of the fox, 
 or as described for the beaver, and stretched as therein indi- 
 cated. 
 
 THE BEAVER. 
 
 The Beaver of North America has now a world-wide reputa- 
 tion for its wonderful instinct and sagacity. The general 
 appearance of this animal is that of a very large muskrat with 
 a broad flattened tail, and the habits of both these animals are 
 in many respects alike. The beaver is an amphibious creature 
 and social in its habits of living, large numbers congregating 
 together and forming little villages, and erecting their dome- 
 like huts Hke little Tisquimaux. The muskrat has this same 
 propensity, but the habitation of the beaver is on a much more 
 extensive scale. These huts or " Beaver lodges," are generally 
 made in rivers and brooks, although sometimes in lakes or 
 large ponds. They are chiefly composed of branches, moss, grass 
 and mud, and are large enough to accommodate a family of five 
 or six. The form of the " lodges " is dome-like, and it varies con- 
 siderably in size. The foundation is made on the bottom of the 
 river, and the hut is built up like a mound, often twenty feet in 
 diameter and projecting several feet above the surface of the 
 water. The walls of this structure are often five or six feet 
 thick, and the roofs are all finished off with a thick layer of 
 mud laid on with marvellous smoothness. These huts form 
 the winter habitations of the beavers, and as this compost of 
 mud, grass and branches becomes congealed into a solid mass 
 by the severe frosts of our northern winter, it can easily be seen 
 that they afford a safe shelter against any intruder and partic- 
 ularly the wolverine, which is a most deadly enemy to the 
 beaver. So hard does this frozen mass become as to defy 
 even the edges of iron tools, and the breaking open of the 
 " Beaver houses " is at no time an easy task. Beavers work 
 almost entirely in the dark ; and a pond which is calm and 
 placid in the day time will be found in the night to be full of 
 life and motion, and the squealing and splashing in the water 
 will bear evidence of their industry. Lest the beavers should 
 not have a sufficient depth of water at all seasons, they are in 
 the habit of constructing veritable dams to ensure that result. 
 These dams display a wonderful amount of reason and skill, 
 and, together v/ith the huts, have won for the beaver a reputa- 
 
178 
 
 HOW TO TRAP 
 
 tion for engineering skill which the creature truly des'^rves. 
 In constructing these ingenious dams the beavers, by the aid of 
 their powerful teeth, gnaw down trees sometimes of large size, 
 and after cutting them into smaller pieces float them on the 
 water to the spot selected for the embankment. In swift 
 
 streams this embankment is built so as to arch agamst the 
 current, thus securing additional strength, and evincing an 
 instinct on the part of the animal which amounts almost to 
 reason. In cutting down the trees the beaver gnaws a circulai 
 cut around the trunk, cutting deepest on the side toward the 
 water, thus causing the trunk to fall into the stream. The 
 first step in constructing the embankment is to lay the logs 
 down cautiously in the required line of the dam, afterwards 
 weighting them with heavy stones, which the beavers by their 
 united efforts roll upon them. The foundation of the em- 
 bankment is often ten feet in width, and is built up by continued 
 heaping of branches, stones and mud, until it forms a barrier of 
 immense strength and resisting power. In many cases, through 
 
' THE BEAVER. 1 79 
 
 a lapse of years, and through a consequent accumulation of 
 floating leaves, twigs, and seeds of plants, these embankments 
 become thickly covered with vegetation, and, in many cases in 
 the Hudson Bay country, have even been known to nurture 
 trees of considerable dimensions. The broad flat tail of the 
 animal serves a most excellent purpose, in carrying the mud to 
 the dams or huts, and in matting and smoothing it into a solidity. 
 
 The entrances to the various huts are all beneath the water, 
 and they all open into one common ditch, which is purposely 
 dug in the bed of the river, and is too deep tOvbe entirely frozen. 
 In the summer time the huts are vacated, and the beavers make 
 their abode in burrows on the banks of the stream, which serve 
 as a secure retreat at all times, and particularly in winter when 
 their houses are molested. The Indians of the Northwest are 
 aware of this fact, and turn it to good account in the capture of 
 the animals. 
 
 When the beaver's village is in a small creek, or brook, it is 
 first necessary to stake the water across both above and below 
 the huts. The next thing is to ascertain the exact spots of the 
 burrows in the banks, and when we consider the river is covered 
 with ice, this seems a rather difficult problem. But this is 
 where the Indian shows his skill. He starts upon the ice, pro- 
 vided with an ice chisel secured to a long, stout handle. With 
 this he strikes upon the ice, following the edge of the stream. 
 The sound of the blow determines to his practiced ear the direct 
 spot opposite the opening of the burrows, and at this point a hole 
 afoot in diameter is made through the ice. Following the edge of 
 the bank he continues his search, and in like manner cuts the 
 holes through the ice until all the retreats are discovered. While 
 the expert Indians are thus engaged, the "squaws" are occu- 
 pied in the more laborious work of breaking open the houses, 
 and the beavers, alarmed at the invasion of their sanctums, 
 make for the banks, and the ready huntsmen stationed at the 
 various holes, watch for their victims beneath the openings, 
 until a violent motion or discoloration of the water betrays their 
 passage beneath. The entrance to the holes in the bank are 
 then instantly closed with stakes and the beaver is made priso- 
 ner in his burrow. When the depth of the burrow will admit, 
 the arm of the hunter is introduced, and the animal pulled out, 
 but otherwise a long hook lashed to a pole is employed for this 
 purpose. Scores of beavers are sometimes taken in this way 
 in a few hours. Spearing is also often successfully resorted to, 
 and when the ice is thin and transparent the beavers may be 
 
l8o HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 clearly observed as they come to the surface, beneath the ice, 
 for air. 
 
 The general color of the animal is reddish brown, this tint 
 being imparted principally by the long hairs of the fur. There 
 is an inner and softer down of a grey color, which lies next the 
 skin, and which is the valuable growth of the fur. The total 
 length of the animal is about three feet and a half, the flat, pad- 
 dle-shaped, scale-covered tail being about a foot in length. 
 
 The young are brought forth in April or May, from three to 
 seven at a Utter, and take to the v/ater when a month old. The first 
 four years in the beaver's life is spent under the " maternal roof," 
 after which period they shift for themselves. To trap the beaver 
 successfully, requires the utmost caution, as the senses of the 
 animal are so keen, and he is so sagacious withal, that he will de- 
 tect the recent presence of the trapper from the slightest evi- 
 dences. The traps should be washed clean arid soaked in ley, 
 before using, and thereafter handled with gloves, as a mere touch 
 of the finger will leave a scent which the acute sense of the beaver 
 will easily perceive. All footprints should be carefully obliterat- 
 ed by throwing v*^ater upon them, and some trappers say that the 
 mere act of spitting on the ground in the neighborhood of the 
 traps has been known to thwart success. 
 
 Almost the only bait used in trapping the beaver is the pre- 
 paration called " barkstone ' by the trappers, or " castoreum " 
 in commerce. This substance is fully described on page 150 
 under the head of '' Scent Baits." 
 
 To the barkstone the trapper is mostly indebted for his suc- 
 cess, and the effect of its odor on the beaver is something sur- 
 prising. Our best trappers inform us that these animals will 
 scent this odor for a great distance, and will fairly ''- squeal with 
 delight," not being easy until the savory bait is discovered, which 
 almost invariably results in capture. 
 
 Taking advantage of this curious propensity, the trapper 
 always carries a supply of castoreum in a closed vessel. 
 
 There are various ways of trapping the beaver, of which we 
 shall present the best. An examination of the river bank will 
 easily disclose the feeding place of the beavers, as evinced by 
 the absence of the bark on the branches and trunks of trees. 
 At this spot, in about four inches of water, set your trap, v/hich 
 should be a Newhouse No. 4. Weight the end of the chain 
 with a stone as large as your head, and, if possible, rest it on 
 the edge of some rock projecting into deep water, having a 
 smaller rope or chain leading from the stone to the shore. A 
 
THE BEAVER. l8l 
 
 small twig, the size of your little finger, should then be stripped 
 of its bark, and after chewing or mashing one end, it should 
 be dipped in the castoreum. Insert this stick in the mud, be- 
 tween the jaws of the trap, letting it project about six inches 
 above the water. The beaver is soon attracted by the odor of 
 the bait, and in reaching for it, his foot is caught in the trap. 
 In his fright he will immediately jump for deep water, thus dis- 
 lodging the stone, which will sink him to the bottom, and thus 
 drown him. The smaller chain or rope will serve as a guide to 
 the trap, and the victim may be drawn to the surface. Another 
 plan is to set the trap in about a foot of water, chaining it fast 
 to a stout pole securely driven in the mud further out in the 
 stream, and near deep water. Bait as before. The trap being 
 thus fastened will prevent the efforts of the animal to drag it 
 ashore, where he would be certain to amputate his leg and walk 
 off. There is another method, which is said to work excellently. 
 The chain is secured to a very heavy stone, and sunk in deej) 
 water, and the trap set and baited near shore, in about a foot o- 
 water. This accomplishes the same purpose as the pole first 
 described, and is even surer, as the animal will sometimes use 
 his teeth in severing the wood, and thereby make his escape. 
 In the case of the stone a duplicate rope or chain will be re- 
 quired to hft it in case of capture. 
 
 The trap may be set at the entrance to the holes in the banks, 
 two or three inches under water, implanting the stick with the 
 castoreum bait directly over the pan, a few inches above the 
 water. If the water should be deep near this spot, it is an 
 excellent plan to weight the end of the chain with a large stone 
 with a "leader" from it also, s.s already described. Insert two 
 or three sticks in the bank beneath the water, and rest the stone 
 upon them. 
 
 When the beaver is caught he will turn a somersault into deep 
 water, at the same time dislodging the stone, which will sink 
 him. No sooner is a break ascertained in the dam than all the 
 beavers unite in fixing it, and this peculiarity of habit may be 
 turned to account in trapping them. Make a slight break in 
 the dam, five inches across, beneath the water. On the under 
 side of the break, and of course, on the inside of the dam, the 
 trap should be set. The beavers will soon discover the leak, 
 and the capture of at least onex?^ certain. The trap may be also 
 set where the beavers are wont to crawl on shore, being placed 
 several inches below the water in such a position that they 
 will step on it when in the act of ascending the banks. Where 
 the weighted stone is not used, the sliding pole page 145 
 
 13 
 
1 82 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 should always be employed, as it is necessary to drown the ani« 
 mal, to prevent amputation and escape. 
 
 The food of the beaver consists chiefly of the bark of vari- 
 ous trees, together with aquatic plants. The fur is valuable 
 only in the late fall, winter, and early spring. 
 
 In skinning the beaver, a slit is made from the under jaw to 
 the vent, after which it is easily removed. It should be tacked 
 to a flat board, fur side in, or stretched by means of a hoop, as 
 described on page 275. 
 
 THE MUSKRAT. 
 
 The muskrat, or musquash, is very much like a beaver on a 
 small scale, and is so well-known throughout the United States 
 that a detailed description or illustration will hardly be neces- 
 sary. Reduce the size of the beaver to one foot in length, and 
 add a long flattened tail, instead of the spatula-shaped appen- 
 dage of this animal, and we will have a pretty good specimen of 
 a muskrat. The body has that same thick-set appearance, and 
 the gnawing teeth are very large and powerful. Like the 
 beaver, the muskrat builds its dome-like huts in ponds or 
 swamps, which it frequents ; and although not as large as those 
 of the beaver they are constructed in the same manner and of 
 the same materials. Muskrats are mostly nocturnal in their 
 habits ; they are tireless swimmers, and in the winter travel 
 great distances beneath the ice; all of which peculiarities are 
 like the beaver. Their food is quite variable, consisting of 
 grass and roots, oats, corn and other grain, apples and nuts, 
 and even tomatoes, turnips, carrots, mussels and clams, when- 
 ever these can be found. 
 
 The muskrat is a native of all of the Eastern, Western, and 
 Middle States, and also the Southern States, with the excep- 
 tion of Georgia, Alabama and Florida. They are also found 
 in Canada and the Arctic regions, and in the North-west. 
 They are hunted and captured as a means of support to the 
 native tribes of Indians who sell or trade the furs to Eastern 
 dealers. The fur somewhat resembles that of the mink in texture, 
 although not as fine, and the color varies from dark brown 
 above to grey beneath. It is in its best condition during the 
 winter, especially in March. The animal possesses a musky 
 smell, from which it takes its name. It is said by many that 
 the flesh of the animal, when carefully prepared, becomes qijite 
 palatable food. 
 
 Their houses are so nearly like those of the beaver that a 
 
THE MUSKRAT. 183 
 
 second description is scarcely necessary. They are often five 
 or six feet in height, and the entrances are all under water. 
 Dozens of these huts may often be seen in ponds and marshes, 
 and sometimes they exist in such numbers as to give the ap- 
 pearance of a veritable Esquimaux village. These houses are 
 used only in the winter season. In general the muskrat lives 
 in burrows, which it excavates in the banks of ponds or streams, 
 bringing forth its young, from three to nine in number, in the 
 nest, which it forms at the end of the tunnel. They are very 
 prolific, producing three litters a year. Like the beaver, otter 
 and mink, the muskrat can travel long distances under the ice 
 with only one supply of fresh air, and its method is certainly 
 very interesting. Before plunging beneath the ice the animal 
 fills its lungs with air, and when under the water it swims until 
 it can no longer hold its breath. It then rises up beneath the 
 ice, empties its lungs, the air remaining in bubbles beneath the 
 ice. In a short time this air absorbs sufficient oxygen from the 
 water and ice as to be life-sustaining, when the animal again in- 
 hales it and proceeds on its journey. It is by this means that the 
 beaver, muskrat and mink are enabled to travel such great dis- 
 tances beneath unbroken ice, and it is certainly a very novel and 
 interesting method. Where the ice is thin and transparent 
 these animals are sometimes captured through the means of 
 this habit. A heavy stroke on the frozen hut will drive its 
 occupants to the water, and their course may easily be followed 
 through the ice. If one of them is tracked, he will presently be 
 seen to stop at the surface of the water for fresh oxygen, as 
 already described. The bubbles will soon appear, and if the 
 hunter immediately strikes with an axe or heavy stick directly 
 on the spot, the submerged animal will be literally driven away 
 from its breath, and will of course drown in a very few 
 minutes. A short search will soon reveal the dead creature, 
 after which he may be taken out through a hole cut in the ice. 
 Otter and mink are sometimes taken in the same way. In 
 many localities great numbers of muskrats are also captured 
 by spearing, either through the ice or through the walls of 
 their houses. In the latter case, two are often taken at once. 
 This method is quite uncertain and unreliable, as the walls of 
 the hut are often so firmly frozen as to defy the thrust of the 
 hardest steel, and a fruitless attempt will drive the inmates 
 from their house at once. The spear generally used consists of 
 a single shaft of steel about eighteen inches in length and half 
 an inch in diameter, barbed at the point, and is feruled to a 
 
184 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 solid handle five feet long. In spearing through the hut the 
 south side is generally selected, as being more exposed to the 
 heat of the sun. Great caution is necessary, as the slightest 
 noise will drive out the inmates. The spear should be thrust 
 in a slanting direction, a few inches above the surface of the 
 ice. Where many houses exist it is well to destroy all but one. 
 Into this the whole tribe will centre, and by successive spear- 
 ing they may all be captured. When the spear has been 
 thrust into the house, it must be thus left until a hole is cut 
 with a hatchet, through which to remove the game. Spearing 
 through the ice is a better method, but for general service there 
 is no means of capture more desirable than by trapping. The 
 steel trap No. i or 2 is the size particularly adapted for the 
 muskrat, and may be set in various ways. I'he most common 
 method is to set the trap under two inches of water on the pro- 
 jecting logs or stones on the border of the streams where the 
 *' signs " of the animal indicate its recent presence. The trap 
 should of course be secured by a chain, ringed to a sliding 
 pole, page 145, which will lead the animal into deep water 
 when captured, and thus effect its speedy death by drowning. 
 In this case bait is not necessary. If their feeding grounds 
 can be discovered, or if their tracks indicate any particular 
 spot where they crawl ashore at the water's edge, at this point 
 a trap may be set with good success. In this instance it is well 
 also to set it under water, baiting with a piece of turnip, par- 
 snip, apple, or the like, suspended a few inches above the 
 pan of the trap. Late in the fall, when collecting their building 
 material, they often form large beds of dried grasses and sticks, 
 and a trap set in these beds and covered with some loose sub- 
 stance, such as grass, chaff, or the like, will often secure the 
 animal. The trap, in this case should be attached to a spring- 
 pole, page 145 as the muskrat is a wonderful adept at self- 
 amputation, when its escape depends upon it. 
 
 The trap is sometimes set in the interior of the house, and 
 may be accomplished by first breaking an opening in the wall, 
 near the ice, the trap being inserted and set, afterwards cover- 
 ing it with the loose grass and moss, which is generally abund- 
 ant in the interior of these huts. When this is done, the chain 
 should be secured to a stick on the outside, and the hole re- 
 paired. No spring or sliding-pole is necessary in this method, as 
 the animal when caught will immediately run for the water, and 
 the weight of the trap will sink and drown its prisoner. 
 
 Scent baits are sometimes used in trapping the muskrat, the 
 
THE MUSKRAT. 185 
 
 musk taken from the female animal being particularly valued. 
 The Oils of Rhodium and Amber, page 151 are also success- 
 fully employed by many trappers ; a few drops of either in the 
 neighborhood of the trap, or directly upon it, being sufficient. 
 
 Although steel traps are most generally used, there are several 
 other devices which are equally if not even mo7'e desirable. 
 Chief among these is the barrel trap, commonly and success- 
 fully employed in many parts of New England, where these ani- 
 mals often exist in such numbers as to render their destruction 
 a matter of necessity. 
 
 The above trap consists merely of an old barrel, sunk to its 
 upper edge in the river bank, and about half filled with water. 
 On tlie surface of the water a few light pieces of wood are 
 floated, over which the bait, consisting of carrot, sweet apple, 
 or turnip, is placed. A trail is then made by dragging a piece 
 of scented meat from the barrel in various directions, and a few 
 pieces of the bait are also strewn along these trails. The 
 muskrats will thus be led to the barrel, and will be certain to 
 jump in after the tempting morsels, and their escape is impos- 
 sible. No less than a dozen muskrats have been thus caught 
 in a single barrel in one night, and a few of these traps have 
 been known almost to exterminate the musquashes in localities 
 where they had jDreviously existed in such numbers as to be- 
 come a pestilence to the neighborhood. 
 
 A barrel trap constructed on the principle described on page 
 131 is also equally effective, although rather more compli- 
 cated in construction. The Twitch-up is often used, and pos- 
 sesses the advantage of a trap and spring-pole combined. Box 
 traps, page 103, are also to be recommended. 
 
 The skin of the muskrat may be removed in the same man- 
 ner as hereinafter described for the otter, with the exception 
 of the tail. This is considered the best method. It may also 
 be taken off flat by ripping from the under jaw to the vent, and 
 peeling around the eyes and mouth, letting the skin of the legs 
 come off whole, without cutting. 
 
 Another common method consists in cutting off the feet, and 
 then ripping with a knife from the front of the lower jaw down 
 the neck and belly to a point a little beyond the forelegs. The 
 lips, eyes, and ears are then carefully skinned, and the hide is 
 stripped backwards from the body. In the latter method the 
 bow-stretch cr, page 274, is used. . 
 
i86 
 
 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 THE OTTER. 
 
 The fur of this animal is of such exquisite softness and 
 beauty as to be in great demand for commercial purposes, 
 bringing a very high price in the fur market. 
 
 The otter cannot be said to be a common animal, although it 
 is found throughout the United States and Canada, being rather 
 more plentiful in the cold northern localities than in the south- 
 ern latitudes. It is an amphibious animal, and can remain for 
 a long time beneath the water. In size it is larger than a cat, 
 and it possesses a tapering tail some eighteen inches in length. 
 Its fur is of a rich brown color, and the hair is of two kinds, 
 the one a close, fine, and exquisitely soft down, which lies next 
 
 Z'/*/* 
 
 
 ■a - ""'mm? 
 
 
 the skin, and which serves to protect the animal from the ex- 
 tremes of heat and cold, and the other composed of long shin- 
 ing coarser hairs, which permit the animal to glide easily through 
 the water. In producing the beautiful otter furs of fashion 
 these long hairs are plucked out, leaving only the softer down 
 next the hide. The food of the otter mostly consists of fish, 
 for the pursuit of which he has been admirably endowed by 
 nature. His body is lithe and supple, and his feet are furnished 
 with a broad web, which connects the toes, and is of infinite ser- 
 
THE OTTER. 187 
 
 vice in propelling the animal through the water when in search of 
 his finny prey. His long, broad and flat tail serves as a most effec- 
 tual rudder, and the joints of his powerful legs are so flexible 
 as to permit of their being turned in almost any direction. 
 
 The habitation of the otter is made in the banks of the river 
 which it frequents, or sometimes in a hollow log or crevice be- 
 neath rocks. The animal generally prefers to adopt and occupy 
 a natural hollow or deserted excavation, rather than to dig a 
 burrow for itself. The nest is composed of dry rushes, grasses 
 and sticks, and the young, three or four in number, are pro- 
 duced in early spring. 
 
 The track which the otter makes in the mud or snow is easily 
 distinguished from that of any other animal, on account of the 
 "seal "or impression which is made by a certain ball on the 
 sole of the foot. Otter hunting is a favorite sport in England, 
 and indeed in the northern parts of our own country. Hounds 
 are used to pursue the animal, and on account of the powerfully 
 scented secretion with which the creature is furnished by na- 
 ture, its track is readily followed. When attacked, the otter is 
 a fierce and terrible fighter, biting and snapping with most 
 deadly energy and never yielding as long as hfe remains in the 
 body. The bite of an angry otter is extremely severe, and for 
 this reason we would caution the amateur trapper on handling 
 the animal should one be taken alive. 
 
 Although £0 fierce and savage when attacked, the otter is 
 easily tamed when taken young, and can be taught to catch fish 
 for the service of its master, rather than for the gratification of 
 its own palate. 
 
 In the winter when the snow is on the ground, the otter navi- 
 gates by sliding, and when on the ice he may often be seen to 
 run a few steps and then throw himself on his belly and slide 
 the distance of several feet. They are very fond of playing in 
 the snow, and make most glorious use of any steep snow-cover- 
 ed bank, sloping toward the river. Ascending to the top of such 
 an incline they throw themselves on the slippery surface and 
 thus slide swiftly into the water. This pastime is often con- 
 tinued for hours, and is taken advantage of in trapping the play- 
 ful creatures. A short search will reveal the place where they 
 crawl from the water on to the bank, and at this spot, which will 
 generally be shallow, a steel trap should be set, on the bed of 
 the river, about four inches under water. The trap should be 
 secured by a stout chain, the latter being ringed to a sliding 
 pole, page 145, which will lead the animal when caught into deep 
 water. If deeu water is not near at hand, the spring pole, page 
 
l88 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 144, may be used, the object of either being to prevent the am= 
 mal from gnawing off its leg and thus making its escape. 
 
 The trap may also be placed at the top or the slide, two or 
 three feet back of the slope, a place being hollowed out to re- 
 ceive it and the whole covered with snow. To make success 
 more certain a log may be laid on each side of the trap, thus 
 forming an avenue in which the animal will be sure to run be- 
 fore throwing itself on the slope. Care should be taken to 
 handle nothing with the bare hands, as the otter is very keen 
 scented and shy. Anoint the trap with a few drops of fish oil 
 or otter m^usk, see page 151. If none of these are handy, ordi- 
 nary musk will answer very well. 
 
 The trap may also be set and weighted with a heavy stone 
 and chain, as described for trapping the beaver. Another 
 method still is to find some log in the stream having one end 
 projecting above water. Sprinkle some musk on this project- 
 ing end and set the trap on the log in three or four inches of 
 water, securing it firmly by a chain, also beneath the water. 
 
 A rock which projects over the stream may also be utilized in 
 the same way as seen in the page title at the opening of this 
 section. Smear the musk on the edge which juts into the 
 water, and secure the trap by the chain as before. When the 
 animal is caught he will fall or jump into the water, and the 
 weight of the trap and chain will sink him. In every case it is 
 necessary to obliterate every sign of human presence by throw- 
 ing water over every foot print, and over everything with which 
 the naked hands have come in contact. Where the traps are 
 thus set in the water it should be done while wading or in a 
 boat. In the winter when the ponds and rivers are frozen over 
 the otters make holes through the ice at which they come up to 
 devour their prey. Where the water is a foot deep beneath any 
 of these holes the trap may be set in the bottom, the chain be- 
 ing secured to a heavy stone. When the otter endeavors to 
 emerge from the hole he will press his foot on the trap and will 
 thus be caught. If the water is deep beneath the hole the trap 
 may be baited v;ith a small fish attached to the pan, and then 
 carefully lowered with its chain and stone to the bottom. For 
 this purpose the Newhouse, No. 3, , is best adapted, as the 
 otter is in this case caught by the head. 
 
 The beaten track of the animal may often be discovered in 
 the snow in the winter time, and a trap carefully sunk in such a 
 furrow and covered so as to resemble its surroundings, will be 
 likely to secure the first otter that endeavors to pass over it. A 
 tra;3 set at the mouth of the otter's burrow and carefully cover- 
 
THE MINK. l8g 
 
 ed is also often successful, using the sliding pole, page 145, to 
 lead him into deep water. 
 
 Every trapper has his pet theories and methods of trapping all 
 the different animals, and the otter has its full share. We have 
 given several of the best methods ; and any one of them will 
 secure the desired result of capture, and all of them have stood 
 the test of time and experience. 
 
 The skin of the otter should be removed whole, and the oper- 
 ation may be performed in the following manner : Slit down 
 the hind legs to the vent ; cut the skin loose around the vent, 
 and slit up the entire length of the tail, freeing it from the bone. 
 With the aid of the knife the skin should now be peeled off, 
 drawing it backward and carefully cutting around the mouth and 
 eyes before taking it from the head. 
 
 With the fur thus inside, the skin is ready for the stretcher as 
 described on pag::^ 273, and the tail should be spread out and 
 tacked around the edges. 
 
 THE MINK. 
 
 This animal, as will be seen by our illustration, has a long, 
 slender body, something like the weasel, to which scientific 
 family it belongs. It inhabits the greater part of North Ameri- 
 ca, and is also found abundantly in Northern Europe. The 
 color of its fur varies considerably in different individuals, the 
 general tint being a rich, dark brown. The chin and throat are 
 light colored, sometimes white, and this spot varies considera- 
 bly in size in different individuals, sometimes extending down 
 on the throat to a considerable distance. The total length of the 
 animal is from thirteen to sixteen inches, its size being variable. 
 
 The fur of the mink is excellent in quality, and has for many 
 years been one of the "fancy furs" of fashion, a good prime 
 skin often bringing from ten to twelve dollars. The introduc- 
 tion of the fur seal, however, and the universal demand for this 
 as well as otter fur, has somewhat thrown the mink into compa- 
 rative shade, although extra fine skins will still command high 
 prices. 
 
 The mink is an aquatic animal, inhabiting small rivers and 
 streams, and living somewhat after the manner of the otter. 
 It has a most wide range of diet, and will eat almost anything 
 which is at all eatable. Fishes, frogs, and muskrats are his 
 especial delight, and he will occasionally succeed in pouncing 
 upon a snipe or wild duck, which he will greedily devour. Craw 
 
IQO 
 
 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 fish, snails, and water insects of all kinds also come within the 
 range of his diet, and he sometimes makes a stray visit to some 
 neighboring poultry yard to satisfy the craving of his abnormal 
 hunger. A meal off from his own offspring often answers the 
 same purpose ; and a young chicken in the egg he considers the 
 ne plus ultra of delicacies. The voracity of this animal is its 
 leading characteristic, and is so largely in excess of its cunning 
 or sagacity that it will often run headlong into a naked trap. 
 
 
 
 Its sense of smell is exceedingly well developed, and through 
 this faculty it is often enabled to track its prey with ease and 
 certainty. The mink lives in burrows, in steep banks, or between 
 rocks or the roots of trees, and the young, five or six in number, 
 are brought forth in May. 
 
 The chief occupation of the mink consists in perpetual search 
 for something to eat, and, when so engaged, he may be seen 
 running along the bank of the stream, peering into every nook 
 and corner, and literally *' leaving no stone unturned" in its 
 eager search. Taking advantage of this habit, it becomes an 
 easy matter to trap the greedy animal. Set your trap, a New- 
 house No 2, in an inch of water near the edge of the stream, 
 and directly in front of a steep bank or rock, on which you can 
 place your bait. The bait may be a frog, fish, or head of a 
 
THE MINK. 191 
 
 bird, suspended about eighteen inches above the water, and 
 should be so situated that in order to reach it, the mink will be 
 obliged to tread upon the trap. The trap may also be set in 
 the water and the bait suspended eighteen inches above it, by 
 the aid of a switch planted in the mud near the trap. It is a 
 good plan to scent the bait with an equal mixture of sweet oil 
 and peppermint, with a little honey added. If there is deep 
 water near, the sliding pole, page 145, should be used, and 
 if not, the " spring pole " in every case, in order to prevent the 
 captured mink from becoming a prey to larger animals, and also 
 to guard against his escape by amputation, which he would 
 otherwise most certainly accomplish. 
 
 The trap may be set on the land, near the water's edge, bait- 
 ing as just described, and lightly covered with leaves or dirt. 
 Any arrangement of the trap whereby the animal is obliged to 
 tread upon it in order to secure the bait, will be found effectual. 
 
 The trap maybe set at the foot of a tree, and the bait fastened 
 to the trunk, eighteen inches above it. A pen, such as is de- 
 scribed on page 144, may be constructed, and the trap and bait 
 arranged as there directed. Minks have their regular beaten 
 patlis, and often visit certain hollow logs in their runways. In 
 these logs they leave unmistakable signs of their presence, and 
 a trap set in such a place is sure of success. 
 
 Some trappers set a number of traps along the stream at in- 
 tervals of several rods, connecting them by a trail, see page 
 153, the mink being thus led directly and almost certainly to 
 his destruction. This trail is made by smearing a piece of 
 wood with the ^'medicine" described at page 153, and drag- 
 ging it on the line of the traps. Any mink which crosses 
 this trail will follow it to the first trap, when he will, in all 
 probabihty, be captured. A dead muskrat, crow, fish, or a piece 
 of fresh meat dragged along the line answers the same purpose. 
 The beaten tracks of the mink may often be discovered, and a 
 trap set in such a track and covered with leaves, dirt or the 
 like, will often be successful. 
 
 Minks may also be easily caught in the dead-fall. Garrote 
 trap or a twitch-up, baiting with fish, muskrat, flesh, or the 
 head of a bird, of which the animal is especially fond. A liberal 
 use of the "medicine " is also desirable. 
 
 The fur of the mink is in its best condition in the late autumn, 
 winter, and early spring, and the animal should be skinned as 
 described for the fox. 
 
192 
 
 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 THE PINE MARTEN. 
 
 This animal belongs to the tribe of " weasels," and is closely 
 allied to the celebrated sable, which it greatly resembles. The 
 pine marten is so called because it inhabits the northern cli- 
 m.ites where pine forests abound, and spends much of its life 
 in the trees in search of its prey. Its general appearance is 
 truly represented in our illustration, its fur being of a rich brown 
 color, with a hghter or white patch on the throat. Its total 
 length, including the tail, is about twenty-eight or thirty inches, 
 of which the tail represents ten inches. It is mostly confined 
 
 
 to the forests in the far north, and is comparatively rare further 
 south than the latitude of Maine and the lakes. The fur of the 
 pine marten is of considerable value, particularly if the animal 
 be killed in the winter. A really fine skin is but little inferior 
 to the celebrated sable, and is hardly distinguishable from it. 
 The hair is long and glossy, and the under fur is beautifully 
 soft and very thick. The dark colored skins are the most 
 valuable. Although so nearly like the sable, the same com- 
 parison does not exist in regard to their proportionate market 
 values, the marten fur bringing a much lower price. 
 
 The marten is a shy and wary animal, withdrawing itself as 
 far as possible from the sight of man, and building its habita- 
 tion in the tops of trees, often seizing on the ready nest of some 
 squirrel or bird, and adapting it to its purposes. 
 
THE PINE MARTEN 193 
 
 It is a night prowler, and in the dark hours it traverses the 
 trunks and branches of the trees in search of its prey. It 
 moves with wonderful stealth and activity, and is enabled by its 
 rapid and silent approach to steal unnoticed on many an unfor- 
 tunate bird or squirrel, seizing it in its deadly grip before the 
 startled creature can think to escape. Coming across a bird's 
 nest, it makes sad havoc with the eggs or young, often adding 
 the parent bird to his list of victims. Rabbits, partridges, and 
 mice also fall into the marten's " bill of fare," and the list is 
 often further increased by a visit to a poultry yard, when the 
 animal murders and eats all it can and kills the rest for sport. In 
 pouncing upon its prey, the marten invariably seizes its victim 
 by the throat, often dispatching the luckless creature with a 
 single bite. 
 
 The martens generally are said to be very susceptible to 
 human influence when taken young, and are very lively in a state 
 of domestication. They are among the most graceful of ani- 
 mals, and in place of the disagreeable scent which renders 
 many of their tribe offensive, this creature possesses an odor 
 which is quite agreeable, and for this reason is often called the 
 sweet marten in contradistinction to the foul marten or pole cat 
 of Britain, which is like unto our skunk in the disgusting 
 stench which it exhales. 
 
 The dead-fall and Garrote traps are very successful in trap- 
 ping the marten. They should be set several rods apart, in the 
 forest or on the banks of streams, and a trail established by 
 dragging a dead or roasted crow, entrails of a bird, or fresh 
 meat from one trap to another, as described in relation to the 
 mink, page 190. The twitch-up may also be used, and 
 possesses the additional advantage of acting as a spring 
 pole, thus holding the captured victim out of reach of larger 
 animals, to which it might otherwise become a prey. Any of 
 the varities described under the title of "twitch-up" will an- 
 swer the purpose, and a little experimenting will soon prove 
 which one will be the most successful for this particular animal. 
 The bait may consist of a bird's or fowl's head, fish, livei, or 
 any fresh meat or entrails. 
 
 The common box trap, page 103, or the box snare, page 
 56, may also be used to good purpose, but the former will 
 need to be carefully watched lest the enclosed prisoner gnaw 
 his way out and thus escape. 
 
 When the steel trap is employed, it should be of the size of 
 Newhouse, No. ^y^, set on th(i ground beneath some rock, 
 
19 h HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 and covered with leaves, rotten wood, or earth, and the bait fas- 
 tened or suspended about eighteen inches above it, in such a 
 position that the animal will be obliged to step upon the trap 
 in order to reach it. An enclosure maybe constructed of stones 
 piled together, the trap being set and covered in the opening 
 and the bait secured at the back. A staked pen, such as is 
 described on page 143, with the trap and bait arranged as there 
 directed, also works well. Wherever or however the trap is 
 set, the bait should be so placed that the animal cannot possi- 
 bly climb on any neighboring object to reach it. The hollow of 
 a tree trunk forms an excellent situation lor the trap, and the 
 same hollow may also be baited at the back and a dead-fall 
 constructed across its opening. The box or barrel pit-fall, 
 described on page 127, is said to be very successful in trap- 
 ping tlie marten, always baiting it with the platform secure for 
 a few days before setting for capture. The same methods di- 
 rected for the capture of the mink are also useful in trapping 
 the marten. The animal should be skinned as described for 
 the fox. 
 
 THE FISHER. 
 
 This animal is classed among the martens, and is principally 
 to be found in Canada and the Northern United States, where 
 it is known as the black cat, or woodshock. In our natural 
 histories it is described under the name of the pekan. 
 
 In general habits, this species resembles the other martens, 
 but its body inclines more to the weasel shape. The fur is quite 
 valuable, and much resembles the sable. Its color is generally 
 of a greyish brown, the grey tint being found chiefly on the 
 back, neck, head and shoulders, the legs, tail, and back of the 
 neck being marked with dark brown. Like the marten, the 
 fisher prowls by night, frequenting swamjDy places in quest of 
 food. 
 
 It builds its habitation in hollov/ trees, and in burrows, 
 which it excavates in the banks of rivers or streams, and its 
 young (generally twins) are produced in early spring. The trap- 
 ping season for the fisher commences at about the middle of 
 October, and extends to the middle of May, after which time 
 the fur decreases in value. 
 
 In trapping the fisher, the same plans may be used as for the 
 marten and mink, as these animals much resemble each other 
 in general habits. The steel trap arranged in an artificial or 
 
THE SKUNK. 1 95 
 
 natural enclosure, or otherwise so set as that the animal will be 
 obliged to step on it in order to reach the bait, will be success- 
 ful and the use of composition "scent bait," described on page 
 153 will be found to enhance success. In every case where the 
 steel trap is used the spring pole, page 144, should always be 
 employed, for the reasons already described. 
 
 Dead-falls, garrotes, box-traps, twitch-ups, or pit-falls, may all 
 be employed to good advantage. Bait with a fish or bird, or 
 fresh meat of any kind, and connect the various traps by a trail, 
 as described for the mink and marten. 
 
 Remove the skin as directed for the fox, and stretch as de- 
 scribed on page 273. 
 
 THE SKUNK. 
 
 This disgusting animal has won the unenviable but deserving 
 reputation of being the most foul-smelling creature on the face 
 of the globe. He belongs to the weasel tribe, and all these ani- 
 mals are noted for certain odors which they possess, but the 
 skunk is pre-eminent in the utter noisomeness of the horrid efflu- 
 vium which it exhales. 
 
 This scent proceeds from a liquid secretion which collects in 
 a gland beneath the insertion of the tail, and the animal has 
 the power to eject or retain it at will. 
 
 It must have been given to the creature as a means of 
 defence, for there seems to be no animal that can withstand the 
 influence of its fetid stench. Dogs are trained to hunt the ani- 
 mal, but until they have learned from experience the right 
 method of attacking the fetid game, and have discovered the 
 whereabouts of the animal's magazine of amunition, they are of 
 little use to the hunter, and are only too glad to plunge into 
 some neighboring brook, or roll in some near earth, in hopes 
 of ridding themselves of the stench which almost distracts 
 them. The offensive propensities of the skunk are only ex- 
 ercised when the animal is alarmed or frightened. There are 
 generally certain " premonitory symptoms " of attack which the 
 creature usually exhibits, and it is well to retire from his 
 " shooting range " as soon as they are observed. 
 
 When the animal is ready to discharge his battery, he sud- 
 denly elevates his large bushy tail, over his body, and turns his 
 back on his enemy. The result of the discharge fills the air for 
 a great distance around, and man and beast fly from the neigh- 
 borhood of the indescribable and fetid effluvium, which fairly 
 makes one's nostrils ache. 
 
196 
 
 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 A single drop of this disgusting secretion on tlie clothes is 
 enough to scent the whole garment, and it is almost impossible 
 to rid the tainted fabric from the odor. 
 
 It is extremely acrid in quality, and if a very small quantity 
 fall upon the eyes, it is very apt to produce permanent blind- 
 ness. 
 
 Dogs, in their first experiences with the skunk, are frequently 
 thus blinded, and there are well authenticated instances of 
 
 human beings who have been deprived of their sight through 
 their close proximity to an infuriated skunk. 
 
 The writer,. in his extreme youth, learned, through dear expe- 
 rience, the putrid qualities of this noisome quadruped. It Avas 
 on one bright Sunday, in New England, and he was out in his 
 Sunday clothing, gathering wild strawberries. He suddenly 
 discovered a pretty little playful animal with bushy tail, romp- 
 ing in the grass near him. The creature was seemingly gentle, 
 and showed no inclination to run away, and the pet-loving nature 
 of the writer prompted an irresistible desire to capture so 
 pretty a creature. Encouraged by its gentle manner, he eagerly 
 ran towards the tempting prize, and grasping it by the bushy 
 tail, v>'hich the animal had raised perpendicularly, as if for a 
 
THE SKUNK. 
 
 197 
 
 handle, the pretty creature was locked in the affectionate em- 
 brace of its youthful admirer. But alas ! he soon repented his 
 rashness, and the treacherous "pet" was quickly flung away, 
 leaving its victim in such a foul state of overwhelming astonish- 
 ment as can be more easily imagined than descril^ed. 
 
 Every article of clothing worn on that eventful Sunday had 
 to be buried, and it took weeks of Sundays before the odor . 
 could be thoroughly eradicated from the hair and skin of the 
 individual who wore those Sunday garments. After this adven- 
 ture, the youth became more cautious with respect to pretty lit- 
 tle playful animals, with black and white fur and bushy tails. 
 
 There is hardly a farmer in the country but what has had 
 some amusing or serious experience with the skunk, and almost 
 every trapper has, at one time or another, served as a target for 
 his shooting propensities. Natural histories are replete with 
 anecdotes of which this animal is the mephitic hero, and vol- 
 umes might be filled to the glory of his strong-smelling qual- 
 ities. 
 
 Perhaps it is through the prejudice of the writer that he can- 
 not enthusiastically recommend the skunk as a domestic pet ; 
 but it is neverthless asserted, on good authority, that these ani- 
 mals, -when reared from the young, become very interesting and 
 f layful in the household, and completely shut down on their 
 objectionable faculties. 
 
 Our illustration gives a very good idea of the animal, and it 
 is so unHke any other creature that a further description will not 
 be necessary. The prevaihng colors are white and black ; but 
 these vary much in proportion, the animal sometimes being 
 almost totally white, or altogether black. The fur is long, and 
 comparatively coarse, being intermixed with long, glossy hairs, 
 and is most valuable in the black animal. The body of the 
 creature is about a foot and a half in length, exclusive of the 
 tail, which adds about fourteen inches more. 
 
 The skunk is generally nocturnal in its habits, secreting itself 
 during the day in hollow trees,- or crevices in rocks, or wood- 
 piles. At night it ventures forth in quest of its food, which 
 consists chiefly of grasshoppers, worms and other insects, wild 
 fruit and such small animals in the shape of frogs, mice and 
 birds as it can capture. The poultry yard often offers an irre- 
 sistible temptation, and both fowls and eggs often serve to ap- 
 pease his appetite. 
 
 The skunk is common throughout the greater part of North 
 A.merica, and in many localities the numbers increase very 
 14 
 
198 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 rapidly unless checked. The young are brought forth in bur- 
 rows or holes in rocks during April or May, and are from six to 
 nine in number. 
 
 " Skunk fur " does not sound well when thought of in con- 
 nection with a set of fashionable furs ; and few*' this reason the 
 pelt of this animal is dignified by the name of Alaska sable by 
 all dealers in the article. When known by this fancy title it 
 suddenly becomes a very popular addition to fashion's winter 
 wardrobe, and is one of the leading furs which are exported to 
 meet the demand of foreign countries. Foul as the animal is, 
 it seldom soils its own fur with its offensive fluid ; and when 
 carefully skinned the fur is as saleable as that of any other 
 animal. 
 
 The Skunk is trapped in a variety of ways ; and as the animal 
 is not cunning, no great skill is required. The steel trap is 
 most commonly used, as other wooden varieties, box traps or 
 dead-falls, for instance, are apt to absorb and retain the stench 
 of the animal. In using the steel trap the size No. 2 shoukl 
 be taken. It may be set at the entrance to their burrows or in 
 their feeding grounds. It should be covered with loose earth 
 or chaff, or some other light substance, and baited with small 
 bits of meat, dead mice, or eggs placed around it. The enclo- 
 closure illustrated on page 143 also answers well, and in all 
 cases the spring pole, page 144, should be used. The dead-fall, 
 page 107, is often employed, and the twitch-up, page 43, is a 
 particularly effective contrivance for their capture, often pre- 
 venting the evil consequences of the odor by causing instant 
 dislocation of the neck, and this without injuring the fur. A 
 stroke upon the backbone near the tail, by producing paralysis 
 of the parts, also prevents the animal from using his offensive 
 powers, and a dead-fall so constructed as to fall upon the animal 
 at this part will accomplish the same effect. To manage this it 
 is only necessary to place the bait far back in the enclosure, so 
 that the skunk on reaching it will bring the rear portion of his 
 body beneath the suspended log. The scent of the skunk is as 
 we have said, almost ineradicable, but we would recommend 
 chloride of lime as the most effectual antidote. 
 
 It is also said by some trappers that the odor may be dissi- 
 pated by packing the garment in fresh -hemlock boughs, letting 
 it thus remain for a couple of days. This is certainly a valua- 
 ble hint if true, and is well worth remembering. 
 
 For skinning the skunk, see Beaver, Otter and Fox. 
 
THE WOLVERINE. 
 THE WOLVERINE. 
 
 199 
 
 This, one of the most ferocious as well as detestable of 
 American animals, is principally found in British America and 
 the upper portion of the United States. It has won a world 
 wide reputation for its fierceness and voracity, and on this ac- 
 count is popularly known as the Glutton. It is not confined to 
 America, but is also found in Siberia and Northern Europe. 
 
 The general appearance of this animal, ugly in disposition as 
 in appearance, is truthfully given in our illustration. It is not 
 unlike a small bear in looks, and was formerly classed among 
 that genus. 
 
 The general color of the wolverine is dark brown. The 
 muzzle, as far back as the eye-brows, is black, and the immense 
 paws partake of the same hue. The claws of the animal are 
 
200 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 long and almost white, forming a singular contrast to the jetty 
 fur of the feet. So large are the feet of this animal, and so 
 powerful the claws, that a mere look at them will tell the story 
 of their death dealing quaUties, a single stroke from one of them 
 often being sufficient for a mortal wound. Although the wol- 
 verine is not as large as the bear, its foot prints in the snow are 
 often mistaken for those of that creature, being nearly of the 
 same size. 
 
 The glutton feeds largely on the smaller quadrupeds, and is a 
 most determined foe to the beaver during the summer months ; 
 the ice-hardened walls of their houses serving as a perfect pro* 
 tection against his attacks in the v/inter time. 
 
 To the trapper of the north the wolverine is a most detested 
 enemy, following the rounds of the traps and either detaching 
 the baits or tearing away the dead animals which have fallen a 
 prey to them. The trapper's entire circuit will be thus followed 
 in a single night, and where the veritable "glutton" does not 
 care to devour its victim it will satisfy its ferocious instinct by 
 scratching it in pieces, leaving the mutilated remains to tell the 
 story of its nocturnal visit. 
 
 The wolverine is a dangerous foe to many animals larger 
 than itself, and by the professional hunter it is looked upon as 
 an ugly and dangerous customer. 
 
 There are several methods of trapping this horrid creature, 
 and in many localities successful trapping of other animals will 
 be impossible without first ridding the neighborhood of the 
 wolverines. Dead-falls of large size will be found to work suc- 
 cessfully, baiting with the body of some small animal, such as a 
 rat or squirrel. A piece of cat, beaver or muskrat flesh is also 
 excellent, and by slightly scenting with castoreum success 
 will be made sure. Several of these traps may be set at inter- 
 vals, and a trail made by dragging a piece of smoked beaver 
 meat between them. The gun trap, as described on page 20, 
 will also do good service in exterminating this useless and 
 troublesome animal. 
 
 Steel traps of size No. 3or4are commonly used to good 
 purpose. They may be arranged in any of the various meth- 
 ods already described, the plan of the enclosure, page 143, being 
 particularly desirable. In all cases the trap should be covered 
 with leaves, moss or the hke, and the bait slightly scented with 
 castoreum. Like all voracious animals, the perpetual greed of 
 the wolverine completely overbalances its caution, and thus 
 renders its capture an easy task. 
 
THE OPOSSUM. 
 
 The home of the animal is generally in a crevice or cave be- 
 tween rocks, and its young, two or three in number, are brought 
 forth in May. 
 
 In removing the skin, it may be ripped up the belly, or taken 
 off whole, as described for the fox. 
 
 THE OPOSSUM. 
 
 The opossum is found more or less throughout nearly all the 
 United States. In size it equals a large cat, the tail being aboat 
 
 nfteen inches long, very flexible and covered with scales. The 
 general color of the fur is irravish-whitc, slisfhtlv tinned with vel- 
 
202 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 low, and the legs are of a brownish hue, which color also sur- 
 rounds the eyes to some extent. 
 
 The fur is comparatively soft and wooly, and thickly sprinkled 
 with long hairs, white at the base and brown at the tips.' 
 
 The nature and habits of the animal are very interesting. Its 
 nest is made in some sheltered hollow in an old fallen or live 
 tree, or beneath overhanging roots or rocks, and composed of 
 moss and dead leaves. The young are produced in several lit- 
 ters during the year, and when born are transferred by the 
 mother to a pouch situated in the lower front portion of her 
 body. Here they remain and are nourished by the parent until 
 they are five weeks old, at which time they emerge and travel 
 with their mother, and their little ring tails do them good ser- 
 vice in holding fast to their guardian. It is an amusing sight to 
 see a family of young 'possums thus linked together, and so " at- 
 tached to each other." 
 
 The opossum is a voracious and destructive animal, prowling 
 about during the hours of darkness and prying into every nook 
 and corner in hope of finding something that may satisfy the 
 cravings of imperious hunger. Rats, mice, nuts, berries, birds, 
 insects and eggs are all devoured by this animal ; and when not 
 content with these he does not hesitate to insinuate himself 
 into the poultry yard, and make a meal on the fowls and young 
 chickens. His fondness for fruit and Indian corn often leads 
 him to commit great havoc among plantations and fruit trees, and 
 his appetite for the fruit of the persimmon tree is proverbial. 
 While feeding on these fruits he frequently hangs by his tail, as 
 seen in our illustration, gathering the persimmons with his fore 
 paws and eating them while thus suspended. He is a most agile 
 climber, and his tenacity and terminal resources in this direction 
 are admirably depicted in that well known Methodist sermon, as 
 follows : " An' you may shake one foot loose, but 'tothers thar ; 
 an' you may shake all his feet loose, but he laps his tail around 
 the Hm' an' he clings forever." 
 
 He is an adept at feigning death, "playing 'possum" so skil- 
 fully as frequently to deceive an expert. 
 
 "'Possums" are hunted in the Southern States much after the 
 manner of coons ; and to the negroes a " 'possum hunt " signi- 
 fies most unbounded sport. 
 
 Though cunning in many ways, the opossum is singularly 
 simple in others. There is hardly any animal more easily cap- 
 tured ; for it will walk into the clumsiest of traps, and permit 
 itself to be ensnared by a device at which an American rat 
 would look with utter contempt. 
 
THE WOODCHITCK. 203 
 
 The dead-fall, garrote, or stout snare may all be employed, 
 bemg baited v/ith any of the substances already described. The 
 steel trap 2>^ or 3 is most commonly used, being set in the 
 haunts of the animal, and slightly scented with musk. 
 
 See Fox and Beaver, for directions for skinning, stretching, 
 etc., etc. 
 
 THE RABBIT. 
 
 The rabbit or "cotton tail," as he is familiarly termed, is 
 too well-known to need any description here. From Maine to 
 Texas our woods abound with these fleet-footed little creatures, 
 of which there are several American species. They are the 
 swiftest of all American quadrupeds, and have been known to 
 clear over twenty feet in a single leap. They are all natural bur- 
 rowers, although they often forego the trouble of excavating a 
 home when one can be found already made, and which can be 
 easily modified or adapted to their purposes. The common 
 rabbit of New England often makes its home or "form," 
 beneath a pile of brush or logs, or in crevices in rocks. Here it 
 brings forth its young, of which there are often three or four 
 litters a year. The creature becomes a parent at a very early 
 age, and by the time that a rabbit is a year old it may have 
 attained the dignity of a grand parent. 
 
 The food of the rabbit consists of grasses, bark, leaves, 
 bulbs, young twigs, buds, berries and the like, and of cultivated 
 vegetables of all kinds, when opportunity favors. When sur- 
 prised in the woods it manifests its alarm by violently striking 
 the ground with its feet, causing the j^eculiar sound so often 
 noticed at their first jump. The animal is fond of pursuing a 
 beaten path in the woods, and is often snared at such places. 
 Its enemies, beside man, are the lynx, and other carnivorous 
 animals, hawks, owls, and even the domestic cat. 
 
 The rabbit is a favorite game with all amateur sportsmen, 
 and the devices used in its capture are multitudinous. It is by 
 no means a difficult animal to trap, and a glance through the 
 second and fourth sections of our book, will reveal many ingen- 
 ious snares and other contrivances, commonly and successfully 
 used. 
 
 The Box trap, page 103, is perhaps the most universal exam- 
 ple of rabbit trap, but the Self-setting trap, page no, and 
 Double-ender, page 109, are also equally effective where the 
 animal is desired to be taken alive. If this is not an object, 
 the snare is to be recommended as simple in construction and 
 sure in its result. 
 
204 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 The above constitute the only devices commonly used iot 
 the capture of the rabbit, the steel trap being dispensed with. 
 On page 109 will be found additional remarks concerning the 
 rabbit and many hints no baiting, etc., are also given under the 
 heads of the various traps above alluded to. 
 
 The skin of the rabbit is very thin and tender, and should 
 be carefully removed, either as described for the fox,or in tlie 
 ordinary method, by incision up the belly. Full directions for 
 curing and tanning the skins will be found under its proper 
 head in a later portion of this work. 
 
 THE WOOD-CHUCK. 
 
 This animal also called the marmot, is so well-known to most 
 of our readers, that a detailed description will not be necessary, 
 suffice it to say that the general color is brownish grey above, 
 changing to reddish brown on the under parts. The head, tail 
 and feet partaking of a darker color. The length of the animal 
 is about a foot and a-half, exclusive of the tail, which is four 
 inches long. 
 
 The woodchuck is a clumsy looking animal, and anything 
 but active in its movements. It is very unintelligent, and is 
 always too ready to use its powerful teeth on the hand of any 
 one who may attempt to handle it. It is naturally a timid 
 animal, but when cornered or brought to bay, it fights most 
 desperately. 
 
 The woodchuck is an expert excavator, and where the 
 animals exist in large numbers great damage is done by their 
 united burrowing. They generally remain in their burrows 
 during the day, only venturing out casually to see what is going 
 on, and keeping near their entrance. Towards evening they 
 start out to feed, devouring certain grasses and weeds, and 
 also pumpkins and green corn with avidity, ever and anon 
 sitting upright on their haunches, to see if the coast is clear. 
 In case they are surprised in their meal, they hurry home in a 
 pell-mell sort of a way, giving as much the appearance of roll- 
 ing as running, but, nevertheless, getting over the ground with 
 fair speed for such an unwieldly animal. The skin is loose and 
 very tough, and possesses no commercial value, being princi- 
 pally used for whiplashes. Their burrows are generally on the 
 slope of a hill, and often at the foot of a rock or tree. These 
 tunnels vary from ten to thirty feet in length, sloping down- 
 ward from the opening, afterward taking an upward turn and 
 terminating in a roomy chamber, in which the animal sleeps iu 
 
THE GOPHER. 205 
 
 winter and where the young from three to eight in number are 
 brought forth. The woodchuck is found throughout nearly 
 the whole of the United States, and is especially abundant in 
 New England, where it is a decided nuisance. It is found as 
 far south as Tennessee, and westward to the Rocky Mountains. 
 The flesh of the woodchuck is by many much esteemed as 
 food, particularly in the Fall. When used for this purpose, the 
 animal should be skinned and carefully cleaned immediately 
 after death, taking especial care to remove the masses of fat 
 which lie inside of the legs, as these, if allowed to remain, are 
 sure to taint the flesh in cooking. 
 
 The animals are easily caught by setting the traps at the 
 entrance of their burrows, and carefully covering them 
 with loose earth, no bait being required. They may also 
 be captured by the aid of a spring-pole, with noose attached, 
 the pole being bent down and caught under a notched stick, 
 and the noose being arranged at the opening of the burrow, 
 see page 43, the Woodchuck in passing in or out will become 
 entangled in the noose, and in his efforts to escape the pole 
 will be loosened from the peg, thus lifting the animal in mid- 
 air. Woodchucks are also sometimes drowned out of their 
 holes, and the turtle is often put to good use for the purpose of 
 smoking the animals from their subterranean dwellings. A 
 ball of wicking saturated with kerosene is attached by a wire 
 to the tail of the reptile. When the ball is ignited the creature 
 is introduced into the entrance of the hole, and of course in 
 fleeing from its fiery pursuer it traverses the full length of the 
 burrow, and as another matter of course drives out its other 
 occupants, which are shot or captured as they emerge. 
 
 The woodchunk's skin is generally taken off as described 
 for the muskrat, and stretched accordingly. 
 
 THE GOPHER. 
 
 This remarkable little animal somewhat resembles the Mole 
 in its general appearance and habits. It is also commonly 
 known as the Canada Pouched Rat, and is principally found 
 west of the Mississippi and northward. It is a burrowing ani- 
 mal, and like the Mole drives its subterranean tunnels in all di- 
 rections, throwing up little hillocks at regular intervals of from 
 five to twenty feet. Its body is thick set and clumsy and about 
 ten inches long, and its Mole -like claws are especially adapted 
 Its food consists of roots and vegetables, and its 
 
2o6 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 long and projecting incisors are powerful agents in cutting the 
 roots which cross its path in making its burrow. The most 
 striking characteristic of the animal, and that from which it 
 takes its name, consists in the large cheek pouches which hang 
 from each side of the mouth and extend back to the shoulders. 
 They are used as receptacles of food which the animal hurriedly 
 gathers when above ground, afterward returning to its burrow 
 to enjoy its feast at its leisure. It was formerly very commonly 
 and erroneously believed that the Gopher used its pouches in 
 conveying the earth from its burrow, and this is generally sup- 
 posed at the present day, but it is now known that the animal 
 uses these pockets only for the conveyance of its food. 
 
 The color of the fur is reddish-brown on the upper parts, 
 fading to ashy-brown on the abdomen, and the feet are white. 
 
 In making its tunnels, the dirt is brought to the surface, 
 thus making the little mounds after the manner of the mole. 
 After having dug its tunnel for several feet the distance be- 
 comes so great as to render this process impossible, and the old 
 hole is carefully stopped up and a new one made at the newly 
 excavated end of the tunnel, the animal continuing on in its la- 
 bors and dumping from the fresh orifice. These mounds of 
 earth occur at intervals on the surface of the ground, and al- 
 though no hole can be discovered beneath them, they neverthe- 
 less serve to indicate the track of the burrow, which lies several 
 inches beneath. 
 
 The Gopher is a great pest to western cultivators, and by its 
 root feeding and undermining propensities does entensive in- 
 jury to crops generally. They may be successfully trapped in 
 the following manner : Strike a line betv/een the two most re- 
 cent earth mounds, and midway between them remove a piece 
 of the sod. By th-e aid of a trowel or a sharp stick the burrow 
 may now be reached. Insert your hand in the tunnel and en- 
 large the interior sufficiently to allow the introduction of No. (o) 
 steel trap. Set the trap flatly in the bottom of the burrow, and 
 then laying a piece of shingle or a few sticks across the excava- 
 tion replace the sod. Several traps may be thus set in the bur- 
 rows at considerable distances apart, and a number of tlie ani- 
 mals thus taken. The traps are sometimes inserted in the bur- 
 rows from the hillocks, by first finding the hole and then enlarg- 
 ing it by inserting the arm and digging with the hand beneath. 
 The former method, however, is preferable. 
 
 The skin of the Gopher may be pulled off the body either by 
 cutting up the hind legs, as described in reference to the Fox, 
 
THE MOLE. 207 
 
 or by making the incision from the lower jaw down the neck, as 
 decided for thp muskrat, a simple board stretcher being used. 
 
 THE MOLE. 
 
 Of all the mammalia the Mole is entitled to take the first place 
 in the list of burrowers. This extraordinary creature does not 
 merely dig tunnels in the ground and sit at the end of them, as 
 is the case with many annuals, but it forms a complicated sub- 
 terranean dwelling place with chambers, passages and other ar- 
 rangements of wonderful completeness. It has regular roads 
 leading to its feeding grounds ; estabhshes a system of commu- 
 nication as elaborate as that of a modern railway, or, to be more 
 correct, as that of the subterranean network of the sewers of a 
 city. It is an animal of varied accomphshments. It can run 
 tolerably fast, it can fight like a bull-dog, it can capture prey 
 under or above ground, it can swim fearlessly, and it can sink 
 wells for the purpose of quenching its thirst. Take the mole 
 out of its proper sphere, and it is awkward and clumsy as the sloth 
 when 'placed on level ground, or the seal when brought ashore. 
 Replace it in the familiar earth and it becomes a different being, 
 full of life and energy, and actuated by a fiery activity which 
 seems quite inconsistent with its dull aspect and seemingly in- 
 ert form. 
 
 We all know that the mole burrows under the ground, raising 
 at intervals the little hillocks or " mole hills " with which we are 
 so familiar ; but most of us little know the extent or variety of 
 its tunnels, or that the animal works on a regular system and 
 does not burrow here and there at random. How it manages to 
 form its burrows in such admirably straight lines, is not an easy 
 problem, because it is always done in black darkness, and we 
 know of nothing which can act as a guide to the animal. As 
 for ourselves and other eye-possessing creatures, the feat of 
 walking in a straight line with closed eyelids is almost an im- 
 possibility, and every swimmer knows the difficulty of keeping 
 a straight course under water, even with the use of his eyes. 
 
 The ordinary mole hills, so plentiful in our fields, present 
 nothing particularly worthy of notice. They are merely the 
 shafts through which the quadruped miner ejects the material 
 which it has scooped out, as it drives its many tunnels through 
 the soil, and if they be carefully opened after the rain has con- 
 soHdated the heap of loose material, nothing more will be dis- 
 covered than a simple hole leading into the tunnel. But let us 
 
208 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 strike into one of the large tunnels, as any mole catcher will 
 teach us, and follow it up to the real abode of the animal. The 
 hill under which this domicile is hidden, is of considerable size, 
 but is not very conspicuous, being always placed under the 
 shelter of a tree, shrub, or a suitable bank, and would scarcely 
 be discovered but by a practiced eye. The subterranean abode 
 within the hillock is so remarkable that it involuntarily reminds 
 the observer of the well-known "maze," which has puzzled the 
 earliest years of youth throughout many generations. The 
 central apartment, or " keep," if we so term it, is a nearly 
 spherical chamber, the roof of which is almost on a level with 
 the earth around the hill, and therefore situated at a consider- 
 able depth from the apex of the heap. Around this keep are 
 driven two circular passages or galleries, one just level with 
 the ceiling and the other at some height above. Five short 
 descending passages connect the galleries with each other, but 
 the only entrance into the keep is from the upper gallery, out of 
 which three passages lead into the ceiHng of the keep. It will 
 be seen therefore that when the mole enters the house from 
 one of its tunnels, it has first to get into the lower gallery to 
 ascend thence into the upper gallery, and so descend into the 
 central chamber. There is, however, another entrance into the 
 keep from below. A passage dips downward from the centre 
 of the chamber, and then, taking a curve upwards, opens into 
 one of the larger burrows or high roads, as they may be fit^y 
 termed. It is a noteworthy fact that the high roads, of which 
 there are several radiating in different directions, never open 
 into the gaJlery opposite one of the entrances into the upper 
 gallery. The mole therefore is obliged to go to the right or left 
 as soon as it enters the domicile before it can find a passage to 
 the upper gallery. By the continual pressure of the moles upon 
 the walls of the passages and roof of the central chamber, they 
 become quite smooth, hard, and pohshed, so that the earth will 
 not fall in, even after the severest storm. 
 
 The use of so complicated a series of cells and passages is 
 extremely doubtful, and our total ignorance of the subject affords 
 another reason why the habits of this wonderful animal should 
 be better studied. 
 
 . About the middle of June the moles begin to fall in love, and 
 are as furious in their attachments as in all other phases of 
 their nature. At that time two male moles cannot meet without 
 mutual jealousy, and they straightway begin to fight, scratcliing, 
 tearing, and biting with such insane fury that they seem uncon- 
 
THE MOLE. 209 
 
 scious of anything except the heat of battle. Indeed the whole 
 life of the mole is one of fury, and he eats like a starvini:^ 
 tiger, tearing and rending his prey with claws and teeth, and 
 crunching audibly the body of the worm between the sharp 
 points. Magnify the mole to the size of the lion and you will 
 have a beast more terrible than the world has yet seen. 
 Though nearly blind, and therefore incapable of following its 
 prey by sight, it would be active beyond conception, springing 
 this way and that way as it goes along, leaping with lightness 
 and quickness upon any animal which it meets, rending it in 
 pieces in a moment, thrusting its blood-thirsty snout into the 
 body of its victim, eating the still warm and bleeding flesh, and 
 instantly searching for fresh prey. Such a creature would, 
 without the least hesitation, devour a serpent twenty feet in 
 length, and so terrible would be its voracity that it would eat 
 twenty or thirty of such snakes in a day as easily as it devours 
 the same number of worms. With one grasp of its teeth and 
 one stroke of its claws, it could tear an ox asunder; and if it 
 should happen to enter a fold of sheep or enclosure of cattle, 
 it would kill them all for the mere lust of slaughter. Let, then, 
 two of such animals meet in combat, and how terrific would be 
 the battle ! Fear is a feeling of which the mole seems to be 
 utterly unconscious, and, when fighting with one of its own 
 species, he gives his whole energies to the destruction of his 
 opponent without seeming to heed the injuries inflicted upon 
 himself. From the foregoing sketch the reader will be able to 
 estimate the extraordinary energies of this animal, as well as 
 the wonderful instincts with which it is endowed. 
 
 The fur of the mole is noted for its clean, velvety aspect; and 
 that an animal should be able to pass unsoiled through earth of 
 all textures is a really remarkable phenomenon. It is partly to 
 be explained by the character of the hair, and partly by that of 
 the skin. The hair of the mole is peculiar on account of its 
 want of '' set." The tops of the hairs do not point in any par- 
 ticular direction, but may be pressed equally forward or back- 
 ward or to either side. The microscope reveals the cause of 
 this peculiarity. The hair is extremely fine at its exit from the 
 skin, and gradually increases in thickness until it reaches its 
 full width when it again diminishes. This alternation occurs 
 several times in each hair, and gives the peculiar velvet-like 
 texture with which we are all so familiar. There is scarcely 
 any coloring matter in the slender portion of the hair, 
 ajiS the beautiful changeable coppery hues of the fur is 
 
2IO HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 owing to this structure. Another reason for the cleanliness 
 of the fur is the strong, though membranous muscle be- 
 neath the skin. While the mole is engaged in traveUing, par- 
 ticularly in loose earth, the soil for a time clings to the fur; 
 but at tolerably regular intervals the creature gives the skin a 
 sharp and powerful shake, which throws off at once the whole 
 of the mould that has collected upon the fur. Some amount of 
 dust still remains, for, however clean the fur of a mole may 
 seem to be, if the creature be placed for an hour in water, a 
 considerable quantity of earth will be dissolved away and fall 
 to the bottom of the vessel. The improvement in the fur after 
 being well washed with soft tepid water and soap, is almost 
 incredible. Many persons have been struck with such admira- 
 tion for the fur of the mole, that they have been desirous of 
 having a number of the skins collected and made into a waist- 
 coat. This certainly can be done, but the garment thus made 
 is so very hot that it can only be worn in winter. Such gar- 
 ments are very expensive, and owing to the tender quality of 
 the skin, possess but little lasting powers. There is also a 
 wonderfully strong smell about the mole ; so strong, indeed, 
 that dogs will sometimes point at moles instead of game, to the 
 great disgust of their masters. This odor adheres obstinately 
 to the skin, and even in furs which have been dried for more 
 than ten years, this peculiar savor has been noticed. 
 
 We have given much space to the mole, not particularly on 
 account of its particular usefulness to the trapper, but because 
 of its many claims to our notice. If the creature were a rare 
 and costly inhabitant of some distant land, how deep would be 
 the interest which it would incite. But because it is a creature 
 of our country, and to be found in every field, there are but few 
 who care to examine a creature so common, or who experience 
 any feelings save those of disgust when they see a mole making 
 its way over the ground in search of a soft spot in which to 
 burrow. 
 
 In many localities this interesting animal exists in such num- 
 bers as to become a positive nuisance, and the invention of a 
 trap which would effectually curtail their depredations has been 
 a problem to many a vexed and puzzled farmer. 
 
 Mole traps of various kinds have found their way into our 
 agricultural papers, but none has proved more effectual than 
 the one v/e describe on page 119. An arrangement of the 
 figure four ^^-x^;^ 107, is also sometimes employed with good 
 success. In this case the bait stick crosses the upright stick 
 
SQUIRRELS. 211 
 
 close to the ground, and rests over the burrow of the mole, the 
 earth being previously pressed down to the surrounding level. 
 The stone should be narrow and very heavy, and of course no 
 bait is required. 
 
 The pieces should be set carefully, and so adjusted that the 
 lifting of the soil beneath the stick as the mole forces its way 
 through the compressed earth will dislodge the bait stick and 
 let down the stone with its crushing weight. 
 
 Another method consists in embedding a deep flower pot in 
 one of the main tunnels of the animal, and carefully replacing 
 the soil above. The mole in traversing his burrow thus falls 
 into the pit and is effectually captured. This i§ a very inge- 
 nious mode of taking the animal, and rewarded its inventor 
 with seven moles on the first night of trial. 
 
 There are a number of other devices said to w^ork excellently, 
 but the above we believe to be the most effectual of all. 
 
 There are several sjDccies of American moles, the star-nosed 
 variety being familiar to most of us. The most common moles 
 are the shrew moles, with pointed noses. The silver mole is a 
 large species, of a changeable silvery color, found on the 
 Western prairies. The Oregon mole is nearly black, with pur- 
 plish or brownish reflections. 
 
 The most beautiful of all the moles is found at the Cape of 
 Good Hope. It is of about the size of the ordinary American 
 species, and its soft fur glistens with brilliant green and golden 
 reflections. The fur of this species is probably the most won- 
 derful and beautiful in the whole animal kingdom. 
 
 SQUIRRELS. 
 
 There are many species of squirrels found in the United 
 States, but their fur is of little value, and of trifling importance 
 in the fur trade ; the squirrel fur of our markets being that of 
 a small grey European variety. Squirrels, as a class, possess 
 much the same peculiarities and habits. Their claws are par- 
 ticularly adapted for life among the trees ; their tails are long 
 and bushy, covering over the backs of the animals when in a 
 sitting posture. They are all lithe and quick of movement, 
 and their senses of sight and hearing are especially keen. They 
 are constantly on the alert, and are full of artifice when pur- 
 sued. Their food consists chiefly of nuts, fruits, and grain, but 
 when pushed by hunger, there is no telling what they will not 
 eat. They generally provide for the winter months by laying 
 
U2 
 
 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 up a store of the foregoing provisions, either in holes in trees 
 or interstices in the bark, or in cavities under ground. The 
 shag-bark hickory offers an especial inducement to these prov- 
 ident creatures in the numerous crevices and cracks through- 
 out the bark. It is not an uncommon thing to find whole hand- 
 fuls of nuts carefully packed away in one of these cracks, an 1 
 
 a sharp stroke with an ax in the trunk of one of these trees 
 will often dislodge numbers of the nuts. The writer has many 
 a time gone "nutting " in this way in the middle of winter with 
 good success. The nests of squirrels are generally built in 
 trees, either in a crotch between the branches or in some de- 
 serted woodpecker's hole. Some species live in burrows in 
 the ground, and those individuals who are lucky enough to 
 be in the neighborhood of a barn often make their abode 
 therein, taking their regular three meals a day from the gran- 
 ary. In many localities these animals thus become a perfect 
 pest to the farmers, and their destruction becomes a matter of 
 urgent necessity. 
 
 Squirrels, although resembling cacli other much as regards 
 
SQUIRRELS. 213 
 
 their general habits, differ considerably in the size and color oi 
 the different species. 
 
 The principal varieties found on our continent are : — 
 
 The large grey squirrel, which is common in the Eastern and 
 Middle States, and which is about two feet in length, including 
 the tail. The common red squirrel, or chicaree, smaller than 
 the foregoing, and found more or less all through the United 
 rstates. The black squirrel, which is about the size of the grey, 
 •■nd found in the north-eastern part of the United States, near 
 tlie great lakes. In the Southern States there is a variety 
 known as the fox squirrel, about the size of the red squirrel, 
 and quite variable in color. The Middle States furnishes a 
 species called the cat squirrel, rather smaller than the preced- 
 ing. Its tail is very broad, and its color varies from very light 
 to very dark grey. 
 
 The ground squirrel, or chipmuck, with its prettily striped 
 sides, is common to most of our readers, its general color being 
 red and the stripes being black and white. 
 
 Another burrowing species, known as the Oregon or downy 
 squirrel, is found in the Territory from which it takes its name, 
 and also northward in British America. In size it resembles the 
 chipmuck, and its color is light red above, pure white beneath, 
 and silver grey at the sides. 
 
 The beautiful silky variety, known as the flying squirrel, with 
 its grey chinchilla-like fur and loose skin, is found throughout 
 the United States east of the Mississippi. 
 
 Louisiana and Texas furnish the golden-bellied squirrel, 
 which is about twenty inches in length, with tail golden yellow 
 beneath, and golden grey above. The sooty squirrel is also 
 found in this locality, being about the same size as the last 
 mentioned, and black above and brownish red beneath. 
 
 There are other varieties in California known as the woolly, 
 soft-haired, and weasel squirrels ; and in the Western States 
 we find the large red-tailed squirrels, which are about the size 
 of the large grey variety of the Eastern and Middle States. 
 
 Squirrels, as a tribe, are much sought for as pets, and most of 
 the species are easily tamed. 
 
 Box traps of various kinds are used in taking them alive. 
 The varieties on pages 103, 106 and 1 10 are especially adapted for 
 this purpose, and should be set either in the trees or on the 
 ground, and baited with an apple, a portion of an ear of corn, 
 or of whatever the animal is particularly fond. 
 
 When the animals exist in such numbers as to become a de- 
 
 15 
 
214 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 structive nuisance to the farm, the small-sized steel trap, No. o, 
 arranged with bait hung above it, will work to good advantage. 
 Twitch-ups are also successful, and we might also recommend 
 the traps on pages 107, 116 and 128 as worthy of trial when the 
 animal is not desired to be captured alive. 
 
 Squirrels may be skinned either by ripping up the belly, or 
 in a whole j^iece, as described in regard to the fox. 
 
 We pause before going further into the mysteries of trapping 
 in connection with the animals which we are about to consider, 
 as they are generally exempt from the wiles of the trapper's art, 
 coming more properly in the field of the hunter or sports- 
 man. The idea of trapping a deer, for instance, seems barba- 
 rous indeed ; but are not all the ways of deceiving and killing 
 these splendid animals equally so ? Are not the various strate- 
 gies and cunning devices of thesportsman, by which these noble 
 creatures are decoyed and murdered, equally open to the same 
 objection ? As far as barbarity goes, there is to us but little 
 choice between the two methods ; and, generally speaking, we 
 decry them both, and most especially do not wish to be under- 
 stood as encouraging the trapping of these animals, except 
 where all other means have failed, and in cases where their cap- 
 ture becomes in a measure a matter of necessity. This is often 
 the case in the experience of professional trappers. The life 
 of the trapper during the trapping season is spent almost en- 
 tirely in the wilderness, often many miles from any human 
 habitation ; and at times he is solely dependent upon his gun or 
 trap for his necessary food. 
 
 Sometimes in a dry season, when the leaves and twigs 
 crackle under foot, the rifle is as good as useless, for it becomes 
 impossible to approach a deer within shooting range. And 
 there are other times when ammunition is exhausted, and the 
 trapper is thus forced to rely only on his traps for his supply of 
 food. In such circumstances, the necessities of the trapper 
 are paramount, and the trapping of deer, in such straits, as the 
 most desirable food is rather to be recommended than con- 
 demned. The same remarks also in a measure apply to the 
 moose and prong-horn antelope, as well as to several other ani- 
 mals hereinafter mentioned, as they are generally considered 
 more in the light of the hunter's than the trapper's game. 
 
THE DEER. 215 
 
 THE DEER. 
 
 There are upwards of eight varieties of this animal which 
 inhabit North America. The common red or Virginian deer 
 is found throughout the United States. The stag or Wapiti 
 deer is now chiefly confined to the country west of the Missis- 
 sippi and northward to British America. The moose we shall 
 speak of hereafter. The Rocky Mountain mule deer, and the 
 long-tailed deer of the same locality, are two more species, and 
 there are also the black-tailed deer and the reindeer, the latter 
 of which is a native of British America. The scope of our 
 volume will not of course admit of detailed directions for 
 trapping each variety, but, as the habits of all the species are 
 in a measure similar, our remarks will apply to them in general, 
 and particularly to the red or Virginian deer, which is the most 
 important to American trappers. 
 
 The trap for taking deer should be large, strong, and covered 
 with spikes. The Newhouse (No. 4) is particularly adapted, 
 and is especially arranged for this purpose. 
 
 When the path of the deer is discovered on the border of a 
 stream or lake, the trap should be set beneath the surface of 
 the water, near the tracks of the animal, and covered by a hand- 
 ful of dried grass thrown upon it. When thus set, it may either 
 be left to run its chances, or success, further insured by the fol- 
 lowing precaution: In winter the principal food of the deer 
 consists of the twigs, buds, and bark of various forest trees, and 
 particularly those of the basswood and maple. In the season 
 when the traps are set as above described, a most tempting 
 bait is furnished by a large branch of either of those trees, 
 freshly cut, and laid near the trap. The deer in feeding are 
 thus almost sure to be captured. There are certain glands 
 which are located on the inner side of tlie hind legs of the deer, 
 and which emit a very strong and peculiar odor. The scent 
 of these glands seems to attract the animal, and for this reason 
 are cut out and used by trappers as a scent-bait. In the case 
 already described, it is 'well to rub the glands on the twigs of 
 the trees, thus serving as an additional attraction to the bait. 
 There is still another method of trapping deer, which is com- 
 monly employed in the winter time. The trap is sunk in the 
 snow at the foot of a tree, and the bait, consisting of an ear of 
 corn or a few beards of other grain, is fastened to the tree, 
 above the trap, three or more feet from the ground. The ani- 
 mal, in reaching for the bait, places its foot in the trap and is 
 secured. 
 
2l6 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 When first caught, the deer becomes very wild and violent; 
 so much so that if the trap \vere chained or retarded by a heavy 
 clog, the chain, or even the trap itself, would most likely be 
 broken. The weight of a trap of this size is generally a suffi- 
 cient impediment, no clog, or at best a very light one, being re- 
 quired. The first frantic plunge being over, the entrapped 
 creature immediately yields and lies down upon the ground, and 
 is always to be found within a few rods of where the trap was 
 first sprung upon him. During the winter the traps may also 
 be set in the snow, using the same bait already described. It 
 is a common method to fell a small tree for the purpose, setting 
 the traps beneath the snow, around the top branches. The 
 deer, in browsing in the tender twigs or buds, are almost cer- 
 tain to be captured. Dead-falls of different kinds are some- 
 times used in trapping the deer, with good success ; using the 
 scent bait already described, together with the other bait. The 
 food of the deer during the summer consists of nuts, fruits, 
 acorns, grass, berries, and water plants, and when in conve- 
 nient neighborhood of cultivated lands, they do not hesitate to 
 make a meal from the farmer's turnips, cabbages, and grain. 
 
 As we have said, the winter food consists chiefly of the twigs 
 of trees. When the snow is deep the deer form what are called 
 "yards," about such trees as they particularly select for their 
 browsing. These yards are made simply by tramping down 
 the snow, and large numbers of the deer are often thus found 
 together. As the supply of food is consumed, the yard is en- 
 larged, so as to enclose other trees for browsing, and where 
 deep snows abound throughout the winter, these enclosures 
 often become quite extensive in area. Panthers, wolves, and 
 wolverines take especial advantage of these, and easily secure 
 their victims. By wolves especially entire herds of deer are 
 thus destroyed, and whole yards depopulated in a single night. 
 Panthers secrete themselves in the trees above the boughs 
 overhanging the "yards,'' and, with stealthy movements, ap- 
 proach and pounce upon their unsuspecting prey. The blood- 
 thirsty wolverine secretes himself in the nooks and by-ways to 
 spring upon its tawny victim unawares. These, together 
 with man, form the principal foes of the deer, and we can truth- 
 fully assert that the hunter is much more its enemy than the 
 trapper. 
 
 As we do not wish to encourage the wanton trapping of this 
 noble creature, it would perhaps be well for us to devote also a 
 few words in dcscribinc: the various modes of huntino: the ani- 
 
THE DEER. 217 
 
 mal, adopted by the "professional sportsmen" throu2:hout the 
 land. The most common method is that called " still huntino^," 
 most generally pursued in winter. The hunter is shod with 
 deer-skin or other soft sandals, and starts out with his rifle and 
 ammunition. Finding the fresh track of the deer, he cautiously 
 and noiselessly follows up the trail, keeping a sharp lookout 
 ahead. A practised deer-hunter becomes very skillful and 
 accurate, and the animal is nearly always tracked to discovery, 
 when he is shot. The deer's sense of smell is extremely acute, 
 and, when in shooting range, it is very necessary to approach 
 them in the face of the wind, the direction of which may be 
 easily determined by holding the finger in the mouth for a mo- 
 ment, afterward pointing it upward toward the sky. The cool 
 side of the finger will indicate the direction from which the 
 wind blows, and toward that direction the deer should always 
 be approached, or as far toward that direction as possible. It 
 will sometimes happen that the hunter will surprise the buck, 
 doe, and fawn together. In order to secure the three, shoot the 
 doe first. The buck and fawn will remain near the spot. The 
 buck should next be shot, and then the fawn, the charge being 
 aimed at the breast. Never approach a wounded deer without 
 reloading the gun, as he is often more frightened than hurt, and 
 is likely to start and run away, unless prevented by anothei 
 shot. During the snow season, deer are always watchful of 
 their back track. They are generally at rest during the day, 
 starting out late in the afternoon on their usual ramblings, 
 which they continue through the night. During the dark hours 
 they love to resort to the water side in quest of aquatic plants, 
 and are here often taken by hunters, many of which consider 
 "night hunting " the favorite and most exciting sport. It is 
 pursued in the following manner: The hunter requires a boat 
 or canoe, page 261, a good rifle, and a lamp. The lamp, with 
 a screen or reflector behind it, is placed at the bow of the boat. 
 One hunter takes the oar, and, with noiseless paddle, propels 
 or sculls the boat from the stern. The armed hunter crouches 
 behind the light, with the muzzle of his rifle projecting beyond 
 the screen sufficiently to easily show the forward sight on the 
 tip of the barrel. A dark lantern is sometimes used as a light. 
 The eyes of the deer shine very perceptibly at night, and his 
 prev:cnce on the banks is thus easily detected. If he is noise- 
 lessly approached, he will remain transfixed by the effect of 
 the light from the boat, and he may be neared even to a very 
 close range, when he is easily despatched. Hundreds of deer 
 
2l8 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 are thus taken during the summer and autumn. Deer are also 
 chased by dogs until they are forced to take refuge in the near- 
 est rivers or lakes, when the hunter in his canoe overtakes and 
 shoots them. Another method is frequently employed in the 
 hunting of the deer. These animals are very fond of salt, and 
 with it they are often decoyed to a spot where the hunter lies 
 in wait tor them. These places are called ^' deer licks," or 
 salting places, and can be made as follows : Select a locality 
 where deer are known to frequent, and place a handful of salt 
 either on a smooth spot of ground or in the hollow of a log. A 
 section of a log is sometimes slightly dug out at one end and 
 the other inserted in the earth, the salt being placed in the hol- 
 low. The hunter secretes himself in a neighboring tree, some- 
 times erecting a bench or scaffolding for comfort, and, provided 
 with gun and ammunition, he awaits the coming of the deer. 
 Hunters say that a deer seldom looks higher than his head, and 
 that a sportsman on one of these scaffoldings, even though he 
 is clumsy in his movements, is seldom noticed by the animal. 
 
 The salt lick is also utilized for night hunting. A head- 
 lantern is generally required. This can be made in the follow- 
 ing manner : Construct a cylinder of birch bark or paste-board 
 or any like substance, ten inches in height, and of sufficient 
 size to fit closely on the head. A circular partition should next 
 be firmly inserted at about the middle of the cylinder, and the 
 centre of the partition should be provided with a socket for the re- 
 ception of a candle. On this end of the cylinder a piece should 
 now be cut to admit of the passage of light from the candle on 
 that side. Having this fire-hat at hand wait patiently for the game. 
 When a significant noise is heard light the candle and place the 
 cylinder on the head, with the open cut in front, thus directing 
 the light toward the ground. As the deer approaches, his fiery 
 eyes will easily be seen, and the light from the candle will shine 
 sufficiently on the rifle to cleady reveal the sights and admit 
 of a sure aim. There is still another method of night hunting 
 by the salt lick. The rifle is aimed directly at the salted spot, 
 and thus firmly fixed — this preparation being made in the day- 
 time. When night approaches, the hunter finds a piece of 
 phosphorescent wood or " fox fire," and places it on the ground, 
 at a point which he has previously determined to be on a direct 
 line of the aim of his gun. The "fox fire " is plainly seen from 
 the tree, and as soon as it is darkened he knows that it is ob- 
 scured by the deer, and he pulls the trigger and kills his game. 
 
 Deer are hunted at all seasons of the year, but ought not to 
 
THE MOOSE. 
 
 219 
 
 be hunted during the summer. The sport legitimate y begins 
 in September, when the buck begins to harden his horns, and 
 when his flesh is in its best condition for food. In October the 
 deer is more shy, and during this month and after, the sport is 
 at its height. The deer should be skinned from an incision 
 down the belly, and the hide spread on a hoop stretcher, paga 
 275- 
 
 THE MOOSE. 
 
 We have already given so much space to the hunting of the 
 deer that we shall be obliged to cut short our remarks on the 
 Moose, particularly as it is a representative of the same family. 
 
 This animal is the largest of the Deer tribe, being seven or eight 
 feet in height and often weighing over fifteen hundred pounds. 
 It is supplied with immense flat spreading horns, sometimes ex- 
 panding to the distance of six feet between the tips. It is found 
 in Maine, Oregon and Washington Territories, and in the neigh- 
 borhood of the great lakes, and inhal:)its the regions as far 
 
220 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 north as the Arctic Sea. Its color is yellowish brown. The 
 fur is thicker in winter than summer, and on the neck of the 
 animal the hair is very coarse and hangs in an immense tuft of 
 over a foot in length. The flesh is most excellent food and is 
 much esteemed by trappers. The habits of the moose are in 
 most respects identical with the deer, already described, and like 
 them they form '^ yards " during the winter season. 
 
 In the North the moose is hunted on snow-shoes by the 
 natives, and in summer they are shot like the deer. They are 
 often very dangerous and terrible creatures to hunt, and the 
 utmost care and skill, as described in regard to the deer, is re- 
 quired on the part of the hunter in order to avoid detection 
 through the exquisite sense of smell which the animal pos- 
 sesses. The moose is easily trapped. The Newhouse, No. 
 6, is especially adapted for the purpose, and it should be chained 
 to a clog of stone or wood of over fifty pounds in weight. Set 
 the trap in the '* yard," or beneath the snow where the moose 
 frequents, or in the summer, or fall seasons, as described for the 
 deer, using the same methods in regard to baiting, etc. 
 
 Skin after the manner of cattle, and stretch the hide on a 
 hoop-spreader. Page 275. 
 
 ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP. 
 
 These creatures are natives of the entire range of the Rocky 
 Mountains, and are especially prized on account of the superior 
 quality of their flesh as food. They are much larger and more 
 powerful than the domestic sheep, and the ram is provided with 
 enormous curved horns. The wool of the animal is intermixed 
 with coarse grey hairs, and the general appearance of the fur is 
 russet grey, with the exception of the rump and under parts, 
 which are of a dirty white color. The animal is generally very 
 wary and retiring, and inhabits the most secluded and inaccess- 
 ible mountain regions and rocky cliffs. 
 
 They are easily captured by the steel trap (No. 5) set in their 
 haunts. The dead-fall is also used in some instances. Re- 
 move thxi skin as described for the deer. 
 
 THE BUFFALO. 
 
 The Buffaloes or Bison of the Western plains is too well known 
 to need description. They travel in migrating herds of thou- 
 sands, and are found from Texas to British America. Their food 
 
THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE. 221 
 
 consists chiefly of grass, of which the " Buffalo grass '' is their 
 great delight. They graze and travel through the day and 
 rest by night. They are more the game of the hunter than the 
 trapper, although the largest side Newhouse would effectually 
 secure one of the animals. The Buffalo is generally hunted on 
 horseback, the usual method being that of stealing into the 
 drove while grazing, always moving against the wind in order 
 to avoid being scented. The flesh is palatable and by many 
 much relished. The Buffalo skins of commerce are furnished 
 by the cows. The bull skins are almost devoid of fur on the 
 hinder parts, the hair being confined to the huge heavy mass on 
 the hump and mane. Skin the animal as described for the 
 Moose. 
 
 THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE. 
 
 This sole American representative of the Antelope tribe we 
 believe is seldom trapped ; but as it is a well-known animal on 
 the Western plains, a short mention of it is required here. In 
 general shape this creature bears considerable resemblance to 
 the deer, the form of the horn being its chief jDeculiarity, each 
 one of v/hich is provided with a single prong, from which the 
 animal takes its name, of Prong Horn. The color of the body is 
 brownish-yellow, with the exception of the rump and belly which 
 are almost white. The Antelopes generally travel in herds, and 
 are much hunted by the Indians who surround them and destroy 
 them with heavy clubs. Like the deer, their sense of smell is 
 especially keen and the same caution is required in hunting 
 them. In size they are about the same as the Virginian Deer. 
 They are wonderfully graceful in all their movements, and are 
 even more fleet of foot than the deer. These Antelopes inhabit 
 the Western Prairies and wooded borders from New Mexico 
 northward, and their flesh is much esteemed as an article of diet. 
 They may be caught in their feeding places, as recommended 
 for the deer, using the same sized trap. 
 
 The dead fall is also efficacious in their capture, and they are 
 also sometimes taken in kirge pit-falls covered over with light 
 sticks and leaA^es, to resemble the natural surroundings. On this 
 false covering, the bait, consisting of green corn or other veget- 
 ables, is strewn and a high wall of logs or stones is erected 
 around it, in order that the animal will be obliged to y/^//^/ slight- 
 ly in order to reach the bait. 
 
 Remove the hide as recommended for the deer. 
 
222 HOW TO TRAP. 
 
 SHOOTING AND POISONING. 
 
 Until the introduction of the steel-trap, shooting was a common 
 method of taking fur bearing animals, and even to the present 
 day it is quite prevalent in some localities. Any one who has 
 had any experience with the fur trade must have learned that 
 furs which are *' shot," are much affected in value . Some 
 furriers will not purchase such skins at any price ; and they 
 never meet with any but a very low offer. ^-Trapped furs" 
 and '' shot furs " are terms of considerable significance in the 
 fur trade, and any one who wishes to realize from a profitable 
 sale of his furs, should use his gun as little as possible. A 
 shot grazing through the fur of an animal cuts the hairs as if 
 with a knife, and a single such furrow is often enough to spoil 
 a skin. It is these oblique grazing shots which particularly 
 damage the fur, and an animal killed with a shot gun is seldom 
 worth skinning for the value of its pelt. If firearms are used, 
 the rifle is preferable. If the animal chances to be hit broadside 
 or by a direct penetrating bullet, the two small holes thus made 
 may not particularly effect the value of its skin, although even 
 then the chances are rather slight. 
 
 Trapped furs are of the greatest value. 
 
 The use of poison is objectionable as a means ot capture in 
 animals especially desired for their fur. Strychnine is the sub- 
 stance generally employed, and unless its victim is skinned im- 
 7nediately after death the pelt becomes considerably injured by 
 the absorption of the poison. It has the effect of loosening the 
 tur and the hair sheds easily. 
 
 The poison is principally used in the capture of Wolves and 
 animals considered in the light of vermin. For a wolf or fox, 
 the poison is mixed with lard or tallow and spread on pieces of 
 meat, or a small amount of the powder is inclosed in an incision 
 in the bait. The amount sufficient for a single dose may be 
 easily held on the point of a knife blade, and death ensues in a 
 a very few moments after the bait is taken. For a Bear the 
 dose should be a half thimbleful, and it should be deposited in 
 the centre of a piece of honey comb, the cells being emptied of 
 their honey for that purpose. 
 
 Other animals may be taken by proportionate quantities of 
 the poison, but for general purposes we discourage its use. 
 
BOOK VII. 
 
 CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS. 
 
 T has been the author's object in the preparation of 
 this book not simply to content the reader with a mere 
 superficial knowledge of so-called "Amateur trap- 
 ping," but to carry him further into the art profession- 
 ally considered, and for this reason we present in the 
 following chapter a full catalogue of the trapper's outfit, 
 containing detailed descriptions of all the necessaries 
 for a most thorough campaign, including boats and 
 canoes, log cabins, shanties and tents, snow shoes and 
 camp furniture of all kinds, together with numerous and 
 valuable hints on trapper's food. 
 
 PLAN OF CAMPAIGN. 
 
 The first thing to be considered in reference to a campaign is 
 the selection of a trapping ground, and it is always desirable to 
 choose a locality where travel by water can be resorted to as 
 much as possible. Otter, mink, beaver and muskrat are among 
 the most desirable game for the trapper, and as these are all 
 amphibious animals, a watered district is therefore the best on 
 all accounts. Lakes, ponds, and streams, bordered by wild 
 woods, form the best possible grounds for general trapping, and 
 the mountain lakes of the Adirondacks and Alleghenies, and 
 all similar regions are especially desirable on this account. 
 Almost any wild country, intersected with streams, lakes, and 
 rivers, is apt to abound with game, and some trappers confine 
 their labors to the borders of a single lake, and adjoining for- 
 est. This plan is especially to be recommended to the ama- 
 teur, as much of the travelling to and fro can be done by boat, 
 
225 THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 the labor being thus much lightened. Having decided upon the 
 seat of operations, the young trappers should immediately set to 
 work at building their shanties and boats. The home shanty is 
 of the greatest importance, and should be constructed first. 
 Select some flat bit of land near the water and clear it of brush 
 wood, or other rubbish and proceed to work as described on 
 page 242. A good axe is the only tool required by an experi- 
 enced trapper in the construction of such a shanty. Should the 
 trapping lines be very extensive, additional bark shanties, page 
 245, will require to be made at intervals along the line, for sleep- 
 ing stations and shelters in case of storm. The professional 
 trapper generally attends to the building of his shanties and 
 boats before the trapping season commences, and thus has 
 everything in readiness for his campaign. If in a birch bark 
 country the Indian canoe, page 260, is the most desirable 
 craft, on account of its lightness and portability. The dug-out, 
 or bateau, described on page 259, will also do good service. 
 
 The trapping season begins in October, and everything 
 should be in readiness at this time, so that the trappers may 
 devote all their time strictly to business. 
 
 The route of the professional trapper often extends over fifty 
 miles, and the number and weight of traps and provisions which 
 these rough-and-ready individuals often carry as personal luggage 
 is most astounding. Fifty or sixty pounds apiece is considered 
 2c fair burden, and they deem no one a fit physical subject for a 
 campaign who cannot at least manage thirty pounds with com- 
 parative ease. The number of the trapping party generally 
 consists of from two to four. A few days prior to the opening 
 of the trapping season, the party start out, laden vv^ith their bur- 
 den of traps and provisions, and deposit them at intervals along 
 the line, the provisions being mainly kept in the " home shanty." 
 Several trips may be necessary to complete these preparations, 
 unless the trapping ground is readily accessible by wagon or 
 boat, in which case the transportation is much easier. 
 
 The 'Miome shanty" is generally built only when the trap- 
 ping grounds are far in the wilderness, miles away from civili- 
 zation. If the line extends from the outskirts of some town or 
 village, such a hut may be dispensed with. It is used princi- 
 pally as a storehouse for furs, provisions, ammunition, tools, and 
 other valuables, and also serves as a point of rendezvous, or a 
 home, for the trappers, one of the number being generally left 
 in charge to "keep shanty" while his companions are on their 
 tramps in search of game. If desired, a boy may be taken 
 
PLAN OF CAMPAIGN. 227 
 
 along for this especial purpose. In every case, some suc^ guar- 
 dian is very necessary, and particularly in wild districts, abound- 
 ing in wolves and bears, as these animals have an odd trick of 
 breaking into unguarded shanties, and often make sad havoc with 
 its stores. Steel traps are almost exclusively used by the pro- 
 fessional trapper, and the supply for a single campaign will often 
 exceed one hundred and fifty. Many of the traps described in 
 the early part of this work are also used, and for the amateur 
 who has not the ready cash to lay out in steel traps, are decid- 
 edly to be recommended and will be found very efficient. From 
 thirty to fifty traps would be a fair number for an ordinary ama- 
 teur trapping season, and the probable cost of such a lot would 
 be from ^15 to $25. The sizes of the traps will depend upon 
 the game sought. No. 2J^ being a good average. With this sup- 
 ply, relying somewhat on dead-falls, twitch-ups, and the vari- 
 ous other devices described in our early pages, we can guaran- 
 tee lively sport, of course, presuming that good judgment has 
 been used in the selection of a trapping ground. In later arti- 
 cles, under the proper headings, we give full details concerning 
 food and cooking utensils, shelter and bedding, as well as many 
 other requisites for the trapper's comfort. To complete the list 
 he should provide himself with a good sharp axe, and hatchet, 
 and if the log canoe is in anticipation he will also require the 
 other tools mentioned on page 259 an oilstone being carried 
 in order to keep the various tools in good repair ; an auger, saw, 
 and some large nails are also to be desired, and a small parcel 
 containing needles, thread, jDins, scissors, etc., will be found in- 
 dispensable. *' Cleanliness is next to Godliness," and there are 
 no more luxurious necessities in camp life than a piece of soap 
 and a clean towel. For light it is advisable to carry a supply of 
 candles, or a lantern with a can of oil. The latter is, of course, 
 more bulky, and for a campaign wholly on foot is hardly to be 
 recommended on this account. 
 
 Each trapper should be provided with a stout jack-knife, 
 pocket-compass, and a supply of matches, a number of these 
 being always carried on the person to provide for the emergen- 
 cies to v/hich the hunter is always subject. 
 
 One of the party should carry a double-barrelled shot-gun and 
 another a rifle, or both may be combined in a single weapon. 
 A revolver is also a desirable acquisition. Purified neats-foot 
 oil should be used on the fire-arms, and in lieu of this, some 
 trappers use the melted fat of the grouse for the same purpose. 
 A good supply of fishing tackle is almost indispensable, and 
 
228 THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 with these valuable equipments the young trapper may defy the 
 wilderness with all its hazards. With his traps, gun and rod, 
 together with his store of provisions, he may look forward to a 
 larder well stocked and may calculate on an appetite which will 
 do it justice. 
 
 The list of portable provisions and cooking utensils best 
 adapted for a campaign are given under their proper title, and 
 will be found to cover all the wants of the most fastidious. The 
 stove is the most cumbersome article, but trappers generally 
 dispense with its use altogether, looking at it rather in the light 
 of a luxury as well, as a nuisance. The open camp fire will 
 answer every purpose, both for cooking and for comfort in cold 
 weather. 
 
 For clothing it is desirable to carry at least two suits, in order 
 to have a "change." They should be of woolen, and from the 
 hunter^ s point of view, should be of a sombre shade, so as to 
 be as inconspicuous as possible. The use of high-top boots is 
 to be deprecated, as they are tiresome and unwieldy. Short 
 boots, with thick, iron-pegged soles, are generally preferred by 
 trappers, and in order to render them soft, pliable, and water- 
 proof they may be soaked or smeared with a hot mixture, com- 
 posed of one part rosin, two parts beeswax, and three parts 
 tallow. Simple tallow, or even the fat of the deer, is some- 
 times used for the same purpose. 
 
 Calculating on a successful campaign, a supply of board- 
 stretchers, page 273, will be needed for the curing of the skins, 
 and if our adventurous enthusiasts should extend their experi- 
 ence along into the winter, the toboggan and snow-shoes will 
 come into good use for convenient winter travel. 
 
 The trapping season properly commences in October and 
 ends in April. The pelts of fur bearing animals are in their 
 best condition during this time, and in the winter are in their 
 prime. The various modes of setting and baiting traps for all 
 our leading animals are clearly set forth in another part of this 
 volume. And in the accompanying engravings will be found 
 life like representations of each species. 
 
 In a trapping campaign it is an excellent plan to select a 
 central point for the home shanty, extending the trapping lines 
 in several directions therefrom, following the borders of the lakes 
 or streams for the otter, beaver, mink and muskrat ; and setting 
 a few lines inland for the capture of martens, racoons, foxes, 
 etc. 
 
 For an amateur campaign this a most excellent and convenient 
 
PLAN OF CAMPAIGN. 229 
 
 arrangement, the lines may extend all the way from one to fiv^c 
 miles each, and connect at their edges, the whole ground plan 
 resembling the form of a wheel, the shanty corresponding to the 
 hub, and the trapping lines the spokes, the tire representing 
 the circuit connecting the various lines. Where the latter ex- 
 tend over many miles it is well to construct bark shanties at the 
 limits. Let each trapper take a certain " spoke," and follow it 
 to its terminus, returning on the adjacent line. On his arrival 
 at the shanty he should immediately set to work skinning the 
 animals taken, and stretching their furs. Full directions for 
 skinning the various game are given under their respective titles, 
 and the curing of skins is treated in detail in another chapter of 
 this work. We also present a table of the comparative values 
 of the various American furs at the present date of publication. 
 Of course these values are constantly varying, but the table will 
 serve at least to gauge the relative values of common and scarce 
 furs. Great care should always be used in removing the skins 
 from the various animals, as the final value of the fur much de- 
 pends upon this. They should not be removed from the stretchers 
 until perfectly dry, and should then be laid iji a cool, airy place. 
 When near a village or settlement it is advisable to send " into 
 town " every few days with a batch of furs for safe keeping, and 
 particularly so when the skins are valuable, and in cases where 
 the home shanty is left unguarded. The value of prime otter 
 or mink pelt is a matter of no small importance, and a good trap- 
 ping ground furnishes a rare field for light fingered prowlers who 
 are well posted on the market price of raw furs, and who are 
 constantly on the lookout for such prizes, either in the shape of the 
 prepared skin, or on the back of the live animal. These " trap 
 robbers," or poachers, are the pests of trappers, and many have 
 learned from dear experience the advisability of placing their 
 choice furs beyond the reach of the marauders. 
 
 The hut in which they are stored is nearly always kept 
 guarded, and, where this is impracticable, the skins are hid in 
 hollow trees, or carried to some near settlement, as we have 
 already mentioned. 
 
 If the campaign proves successful and promises well for 
 another season, it is customary to hide the traps Ijcneath rocks, 
 thus saving the labor of a second transportation. In order to keep 
 the traps from rusting, it is well to cover them with oat or buck- 
 wheat chaff. The rock should be first rolled from its resting place, 
 and a bed of the chaff made beneath it, in which the traps should 
 be covered, the rock being afterwards replaced. In a few such 
 16 
 
230 THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 places all the traps may be effectually stored away, and they 
 will be found in prime order and ready for business on the iot 
 lowing season. 
 
 In the months of September and October trappers are 
 much annoyed by gnats and mosquitoes, and, as a preventive 
 against the attacks of these pests, we give on page 255 some 
 valuable receipts, which have stood the test of time, and are still 
 the most effective remedies. The ^' smudge," consisting of a 
 smouldering pile of birch bark is also used where the insects 
 infest the tents or shanties by night. The bark should be dry, 
 and should not be allowed to blaze. The smudge is generally 
 placed at the entrance of the tent, and the trapper may then 
 take his choice between smoke or mosquitoes, both cannot exist 
 together, and a tent infested with the blood-thirsty pests may be 
 effectually cleared in a few minutes by the introduction of 
 smoking brand for a few seconds. If luc tent is now closely 
 buttoned and the smudge kept burning directly outside, there 
 will be no further trouble with the mosquitoes, and the odor of 
 the smoke is, after all, but a slight annoyance and to some is 
 even enjoyable after being once accustomed to it. When 
 the home shanty is infested, it may be cleared in the same way, 
 and by the aid of two or more smudges on the v/indward side 
 may be kept free from the insects. 
 
 FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 
 
 The professional trapper on a campaign depends much upon 
 his traps for his food, and often entirely contents himself with the 
 subsistence thus gained. We encourage and believe in " roughing 
 it " to a certain extent, but not to that limit to which it is often 
 carried by many professional "followers of the trap " throughout 
 our country. The course of diet to which these individuals subject 
 themselves, Avould often do better credit to a half civilized bar- 
 barian than to an enlightened white man, and when it comes to 
 starting on a campaign with no provision for food excepting a few 
 traps, a gun, and a box of matches, and relying on a chance chip 
 for a frying-pan, he would rather be " counted out." In ordinary 
 cases we see no necessity for such deprivation, and, on the other 
 hand, we decry the idea of transporting a whole kitchen and larder 
 into the woods. There is a happy medium between the two ex- 
 tremes, whereby a light amount of luggage in the shape of 
 cooking utensils and closely packed portable food, may render 
 the wild life of the trapper very cozy and comfortable, and his 
 
FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 
 
 231 
 
 meals a source of enjoyment, instead of a fulfilment of physical 
 duty. What with the stock of traps, necessary tools, blankets, 
 etc., the trapper's burden is bound to be pretty heavy, and it be- 
 comes necessary to select such food for transportation as shall 
 combine the greatest amount of nutriment and the least possible 
 weight, and to confine the utensils to those absolutely necessary 
 for decent cooking. 
 
 The trapper's culinary outfit may then be reduced to the fol- 
 lowing items, and in them he will find a sufficiency for very pas- 
 sable living. 
 
 One of the most nutritious and desirable articles of food con- 
 sists of fine sifted Indian meal; and it is the only substantial 
 article of diet which many trappers will deign to carry at all. 
 
 By some ifc is mixed with twice its quantity of wheat flour, and 
 is thus used in the preparation of quite a variety of palat- 
 able dishes. One or two pounds of salt pork will also be found 
 a valuable addition ; boxes of pepper and salt and soda should 
 also be carried. With these simple provisions alone, relying 
 on his gun, traps and fishing tackle for animal food, the young 
 trapper may rely on three enjoyable meals a day, if he is any- 
 thing of a cook. Pork fritters are not to be despised, even at 
 a hotel table ; and with the above they can be made to suit the 
 palate of the most fastidious. 
 
 Indian meal is a valuable accessory with cooks generally, and 
 to the trapper it often becomes his great " staff of life." If our 
 young enthusiast desires to try his hand at roughing it to the 
 fullest extent, compatible with common sense and the strength 
 of an ordinary physical constitution, he may endeavor to con- 
 tent himself with the above portable rations ; but with anything 
 less it becomes too much like starva- 
 tion to arouse our enthusiasm. For 
 cooking utensils, a small frying-pan and 
 a deep tin basin are indispensable ; and 
 a drinking cup is also to be desired. 
 The kind known as the telescope cup, 
 constructed in three parts, which close 
 within each other, when not in use, pos- 
 sesses great advantages on account of 
 its portability. With these one can get 
 along pretty decently. 
 
 The pork fritters already mentioned 
 form a favorite dish with trappers 
 generally, and can be made in the fol- 
 
232 THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 lowing way; have at hand a thick batter of the Indian 
 meal and flour; cut a few shces of the pork, and fry them in the 
 frying-pan until the fat is tried out ; cut a few more slices of 
 the pork ; dip them in the batter and drop them in the bubbling 
 fat, seasoning with salt and pepper ; cook until light brown and 
 eat while hot. The question now arises, "What shall we eat 
 them with ? " If you are " roughing it," such luxuries as plates 
 and knifes and forks are surely out of the question ; and you 
 must content yourself with a pair of chop sticks " a la Chinee," 
 or make your jackknife do double purpose, using a flat chip or 
 stone as a plate. A small tin plate may be added to the list of 
 utensils if desired, but we are now confining ourselves to the 
 *' lowest limit" of absolute necessities. That wholesome dish 
 known as " boiled mush," may come under the above bill of fare ; 
 and fried mush is an old stand-by to the rough and ready trap- 
 per. In the first case the Indian meal is slowly boiled for one 
 hour, and then seasoned as eaten. It is then allowed to cool, 
 and is cut in slices and fried in fat. Indian meal cakes are 
 easily made by dropping a quantity of the hot mush in the fry- 
 ing-pan, having previously stirred in a small quantity of soda, 
 and turning it as soon as the lower side is browned. A Johnny 
 cake thus made is always appetizing, and with the addition of 
 a little sugar, it becomes a positive luxury. Hoe cakes, so 
 much relished by many, can be made by mixing up a quantity 
 into a thick mass, adding a little soda. Bake in the fire on a 
 chip or flat stone. The trapper's ground is generally in the 
 neighborhood of lakes or streams, and fresh fish are always to 
 be had. They may be cooked in a manner which would tempt 
 a city epicure ; and when it comes to the cooking of a fresh 
 brook trout, neither a Prof. Blot nor a Delmonico can compete 
 with the trapper's recipe. The trout is first emptied and cleaned 
 through a hole at the neck, if the fish is large enough to admit 
 of it ; if not, it should be done by a slit up the belly. The in- 
 terior should be carefully washed and seasoned with salt and 
 pepper ; and in the case of a large fish, it should be stuffed with 
 Indian meal. Build a good fire and allow the wood to burn 
 down to embers ; lay the fish in the hot ashes and cover it with 
 the burning coals and embers ; leave it thus for about half an 
 hour, more or less, in proportion to the size of the fish (this may 
 be easily determined by experiment) ; when done, remove it 
 carefully from the ashes, and peel off the skin. The clean 
 pink flesh and delicious savor which now manifest themselves 
 will create an appetite where none before existed. All the deli- 
 
FOOD AND UTENSILS. 233 
 
 cate flavor and sweet juices of the fish are thus retained, and 
 the trout as food is then known in its perfection. 
 
 By the ordinary method of cooking, the trout loses mucn of its 
 original flavor by the evaporation of its juices ; and although a 
 delicious morsel in any event, it is never fully appreciated ex- 
 cepting after being roasted in the ashes, as above described. 
 
 The other method consists in rolling the fish in the Indian 
 meal and frying it in the frying-pan with a piece of the salt 
 pork. Seasoning as desired. 
 
 Partridges, ducks, quail, and other wild fowl are most deli- 
 cious when cooked in the ashes as described for the trout. The 
 bird should be drawn in the ordinary manner, and the inside 
 washed perfectly clean. It should then be embedded in 
 the hot coals and ashes, the feathers having been previously 
 saturated with water. When done, the skin and feathers will 
 easily peel off, and the flesh will be found to be wonderfully 
 sweet, tender, and juicy. A stuffing of pounded crackers and 
 minced meat of any kind, with plenty of seasoning, greatly im- 
 proves the result, or the Indian meal may be used if desired. 
 A fowl thus roasted is a rare delicacy. A partridge, squirrel, 
 pigeon, woodcock, or any other game can be broiled as well in 
 the woods as at home, using a couple of green-branched twigs 
 for a spider or "toaster," and turning occasionally. For this 
 purpose the bird should be plucked of its feathers, cleanly 
 drawn and washed, and spread out by cutting down the back. 
 Venison, moose, or bear meat, can be deliciously roasted in 
 joints of several pounds before a good fire, using a green birch 
 branch as a spit, and resting it on two logs, situated on opposite 
 sides of the fire. The meat can thus be occasionally turned 
 and propped in place by a small stick, sprinkling occasionally 
 with salt and pepper. The above manner of making the fire is 
 that adopted by most woodsmen. Two large green logs, of 
 several feet in length, being first laid down at about three feet 
 distant, between these the fire is built, and when a kettle is used 
 a heavy pole is so arranged as to project and hold it over the 
 fire. A cutlet of venison fried in the pan is delicious, and a 
 *' Johnny cake" cooked in the fat of this meat is a decided 
 dainty. 
 
 With the above hints for a " rough and ready " campaign, 
 we think the young trapper ought to be able to get along quite 
 comfortably. 
 
 We will now pass on to the consideration of what the average 
 
234 THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 professional trapper would call "luxuries." The stock of 
 these depends much upon the location of the trapping ground. 
 If accessible by wagon or boat, or both, they may be carried in 
 unlimited quantities, but when they are to be borne on the back 
 of the trapper through a pathless wilderness of miles, the 
 supply will, of course, have to be cut short. When two or 
 three start out together it becomes much easier, one carrying 
 the traps and tools ; another the guns, cooking utensils, etc. ; 
 the third confining his luggage to the food. One of the most 
 necessary requisites for a journey on foot consists in a knap- 
 sack or large square basket, which can be easily strapped to the 
 back of the shoulders, thus leaving the hands free. Matches 
 are absolutely indispensable, and a good supply should be car- 
 ried. They should always be enclosed in a large-mouthed bot- 
 tle with a close fitting cork, to prevent their being damaged by 
 moisture. For further safety in this regard the matches may 
 be rendered perfectly water-proof by dipping their ends in thin 
 mastic or shellac varnish. If not at hand, this varnish can be 
 easily made by dissolving a small quantity of either sort of gum 
 in three or four times its bulk of alcohol. It is well to dip 
 the whole stick in the solution, thereby rendering the entire 
 match impervious to moisture. Lucifer matches are the best, 
 and, when thus prepared, they may lay in water for hours with- 
 out any injury. It is a fearful thing to find oneself in the wil- 
 derness, cold and hungry, and without the means of lighting a 
 fire, and to prepare for such an emergency it is always advisable 
 to be provided with a pocket sun glass. So long as the sun 
 shines a fire is thus always to be had, either by igniting a small 
 quantity of powder (which the trapper is always supposed to 
 carry) or using powdered "touch wood " or "punk tinder" in 
 its place. Fine scrapings from dry wood will easily ignite by 
 the sun glass, and by fanning the fire and adding additional 
 fuel it will soon burst into flame. In cloudy weather, and in 
 the absence of matches, a fire may easily be kindled by sprink- 
 ling a small quantity of powder on a large flat stone, setting a 
 percussion cap in its midst, and covering the whole with dry 
 leaves. A smart strike on the cap with a hammer will have the 
 desired result, and by heaping additional fuel on the blazing 
 leaves the fire soon reaches large proportions. If the young 
 trapper should ever be so unfortunate as to find himself in the 
 wild woods, chilled and hungry, minus matches, powder, caps, 
 and sun glass, he may as a last resort try the following : Scrape 
 some lint or cotton from some portion of the garment, or some 
 
FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 235 
 
 tinder from a dry stick, and lay it on the surface of some rough 
 rock, white quartz rock if it can be found. Next procure a 
 fragment of the same stone, or a piece of steel from some one 
 of the traps, and strike its edge sharply, and with a skipping 
 stroke into the further side of the tinder, the direction being 
 such as will send the sparks thus produced into the inflammable 
 material. Continue this operation until the tinder ignites. By 
 now gently fanning the smoking mass it may easily be coaxed 
 into flame. At least so our Adirondack guide told us last sum- 
 mer. The author has never had occasion to test the merits of 
 the plan for himself, and has no special desire of being so 
 placed, as that his life will hang upon its success. He presents 
 it therefore as a mere suggestion without endorsing its prac- 
 tibility, and would rather prefer matches in the long run. The 
 open fire generally serves both for purposes of warmth and 
 cooking, but by many, a camp stove is considered a great im- 
 provement. Stoves of this character, and for this especial pur- 
 pose, are in the market. They are small and portable, with 
 pipe and furniture, all of which pack away closely into the in- 
 terior. A fire is easily started in one of these stoves, and, by 
 closing the damper, a slow fire may be kept up through the 
 night. The stove is generally set up at the entrance of the 
 tent, the pipe passing through the top, in a hole near the ridge 
 pole. The furniture consists of three pots or kettles, which pack 
 easily into each other, and when in the stove still leave ample 
 room for a considerable amount of provisions. 
 
 The kettles are made of block-tin, and frying-pans also, as 
 these are much more light and portable than those made of iron. 
 The lid may be used as a plate, and for this purpose the han- 
 dle consists of an iron ring, which will fold flat against the 
 surface when inverted. Knives, forks, and spoons are easily 
 stowed away in the stove or knapsack, and a coffee-pot should 
 always be carried. There is a knife known as the combination 
 camp-knife, which is much used by hunters and trappers, and 
 contains a spoon, fork, knife, and various other useful append- 
 ages, in a most compact form. It costs from one to two 
 dollars. 
 
 For provisions, potatoes will be found excellent, both on ac- 
 count of their portabihty and the variety of ways in which they 
 may be served. They are healthy and nutritious, and always 
 palatable. Beans are also very desirable for the same reasons. 
 Wheat flour will form a valuable addition to the trapper's larder, 
 and particularly so, if the "self-raising " kind can be had. This 
 
236 THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 flour contains all the required ingredients for light bread and 
 biscuit, and is sold by grocers generally, in packages of various 
 sizes, with accompanying recipes. We strongly recommend it 
 where a stove is employed ; and to any one who is fond of bis- 
 cuit, bread, or pancakes, it Avill be appreciated. Butter, lard, 
 sugar, salt, pepper and mustard are valuable accessories, and 
 curry-powder, olive oil, and vinegar will often be found useful. 
 Olive oil is often used by camping parties with the curry powder, 
 and also as a substitute for lard in the frying-pan. Pork, Indian 
 meal and crackers, wheaten grits, rice, and oat-meal are desira- 
 ble, and coffee and tea are great luxuries. For soups, Liebig's 
 extract of beef is a most valuable article, and with the addition 
 of other ingredients, vegetables or meat, the result is a most 
 delicious and nutritious dish. This extract is obtainable at 
 almost any grocer's, and full directions and recipes accompany 
 each jar. Canned vegetables are much to be desired on ac- 
 count of their portability, and are never so delicious as when 
 cooked over a camp fire. Lemonade is always a luscious bev- 
 erage, but never so much so as to a thirsty trapper. A few 
 lemons are easily carried and will repay the trouble. 
 
 All provisions, such as meal, flour, sugar, salt, crackers, and 
 the like, should be enclosed in water-proof canvas bags, and 
 labelled. The bags may be rendered water-proof either by 
 painting, (in which case no lead or arsenic paints should be 
 used) or by dipping in the preparation described on page 247. 
 If these are not used, a rubber blanket, page 250, may be sub- 
 stituted, the eatables being carefully wrapped therein, when not 
 in use. The butter and lard should be put up in air-tight jars, 
 and should be kept in a cool place, either on the ground in a 
 shady spot, or in some cool spring. 
 
 For a campaign on foot, the knapsack, or shoulder-basket, 
 already alluded to on page 234, is an indispensable article. It 
 should be quite large and roomy, say fifteen inches in depth and 
 ten by twelve inches in its other dimensions. The material 
 should be canvas, rubber cloth, or wicker, and, in any case, 
 the opening at the top should have a v/ater-proof covering ex- 
 tending well over the sides. The straps may consist of old 
 suspender bands, fastened crosswise on the broad side of the 
 bag. The capacity of such a knapsack is surprising, and the 
 actual weight of luggage seems half reduced when thus carried 
 on the shoulders. When three or four trappers start together, 
 which is the usual custom, and each is provided with such a 
 shoulder basket, the luggage can be thus divided, and the load 
 for each individual much liditened. 
 
FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 237 
 
 Venison is the trapper's favorite food, and in mild weather 
 it sometimas happens that tlie overplus of meat becomes tainted 
 before it can be eaten. To overcome this difficulty the following 
 process is resorted to, for the preservation of the meat, and the 
 result is the well-known and high-priced " jerked venison " 
 of our markets. The flesh is first cut into small, thin strips, 
 all the meat being picked off from the bones. The pieces are 
 then placed on the inside of the hide of the animal and thor- 
 oughly mixed with salt, a pint and a half being generally suffi- 
 cient. The salt being well worked in, the fragments should be 
 carefully wrapped in the hide, and suffered to remain in this 
 condition for two or three hours. The meat is then ready to be 
 dried, — "jerked." 
 
 Four forked poles should be first driven into the ground, 
 about six feet apart, in the form of a square, the forks being 
 four feet above ground. Lay two poles of green wood 
 across the forks on the two opposite sides of the square, and 
 cover the space between them by other poles laid across them, 
 an inch or two inches apart. On to this mammoth gridiron the 
 strips of flesh should now be spread, and a steady fire of birch 
 or other clean, fresh wood should be kept steadily burning be- 
 neath for about twenty-four hours. At the end of this time the 
 meat will have reduced much in size and weight. The salt will 
 have been thoroughly dried in^ and the flesh so prepared maybe 
 kept for almost any length of time. In its present condition it 
 is excellent eating, and it is always at hand for frying, and may 
 be cooked in a variety of ways. Moose and bear meat may be 
 dried in a similar manner, using a proportionate amount of salt. 
 Fish may also be prepared in the same way, for which purpose 
 they should be scaled as usual and afterward spread open by 
 cutting down the back, the bone being removed. We cor- 
 dially recommend this method of preparing both flesh and fish, 
 and no trapper's " recipe book " is complete without it. 
 
 In localities where wolves abound, the nocturnal invasions of 
 these creatures often render the keeping of fresh meat a very 
 difficult task, and in this connection it may be well to give di- 
 rections for the preservation of game desired to be used either 
 as fresh meat or for purposes of drying. 
 
 The spring-pole is most commonly and successfully used. 
 
 Select some stout sapHng, bend it down, and cut off a limb 
 several feet from the ground. Hang the meat in the crotch 
 thus formed, and allow the tree to swing back. By dividing 
 the meat into several parts it may thus all be protected. When 
 
238 THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 a moose or deer is killed at such a time or place, or under such 
 circumstances as render its immediate dressing impossible, its 
 carcass may be defended against mutilation by another means. 
 Wolves are naturally sly and sagacious, and have a wholesome 
 fear of a trap. Any unnatural arrangement of logs and stones 
 immediately excites their suspicion, and the trapper takes ad- 
 vantage of this wary peculiarity to good purpose. Laying his 
 dead game near some fallen tree or old log he strews a few 
 branches over the carcass, or perhaps rests a log over it. Some- 
 times he hangs the entrails of the animal over the body, on a 
 forked stick, any one of which devices is said to have the de- 
 sired result. The wolverine is another pest to the trapper, and 
 not being so sly as the wolf, never hesitates to pounce upon any 
 flesh within its reach. The former method, therefore, is always 
 the safest plan for absolute protection against all animals. 
 
 The moose and deer are the favorite food of trappers in the 
 country where these animals abound, and the trappers of the 
 Far West find in the flesh of the Moufflon, or Rocky Moun- 
 tain sheep, a delicacy which they consider superior to the finest 
 venison. The prong-horn antelope of the Western plains is 
 another favorite food-animal with hunters, and the various 
 "small game," such as squirrels, rabbits, woodchucks, etc., are 
 by no means to be despised. The author once knew a trapper 
 who was loud in his praises of " skunk meat " for food, and 
 many hunters can testify to its agreeable flavor when properly 
 dressed and cooked. It is hard, to be sure, to get up much en- 
 thusiasm over a skunk, dead or alive, but where other food is not 
 to be had we would discourage the young trapper from being 
 too fastidious. 
 
 The buffalo, or bison, is the great resource of the trappers of 
 the West. The tongue, tenderloin and brisket are generally 
 preferred, but all the meat is eatable. The flesh of the cow is 
 best. It much resembles beef, but has a more gamey flavor. In 
 winged game there is no food superior to the flesh of the grouse, 
 and the great number of the species and wide range of territory 
 which they inhabit render them the universal food game of traj> 
 pers throughout the world. The ruffed grouse or partridge, 
 pinnated grouse or prairie hen, spruce or Canada grouse, and 
 the cock-of-the-plains or sage cock, are familiar American exam- 
 ples of the family, and their near relatives, the ptarmigans, afford 
 a valuable source of food to the trappers and hunters, as well 
 as general inhabitants of our northern cold countries. Here 
 they are known as " snow grouse," and there are several spe- 
 
FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 239 
 
 cies. The willow ptarmigan is the most common, and in some 
 localities exists in almost incredible numbers. Flocks number- 
 ing several thousand have been frequently seen by travellers in 
 the Hudson's Bay territory ; and the surface of the snow in a 
 desirable feeding ground, is often completely covered by the 
 birds, in quest of the willow tops, which form their chief food 
 during the winter season. The Indians and natives secure the 
 birds in large numbers, by the trap described on pa^e 75, and 
 Hearne, the traveller and explorer of the Hudson's 'Bay region, 
 asserts that he has known over three hundred to be thus caught 
 in a single morning, by three persons. 
 
 Of water fowl, ducks and geese are especially to be recom- 
 mended. The former are hunted with decoys and boats, and 
 are sometimes trapped, as described on pages 94. The species 
 are distinguished as sea ducks and river or inland ducks. 
 The latter are considered the most desirable for food, being 
 more delicate and less gamey in flavor than the salt-water, or 
 fish-eating varieties. The mallard, teal, muscovy, widgeon, and 
 wood-duck are familiar species of the inland birds, and the 
 merganser and canvass-back are the two most esteemed salt-water 
 varieties. Wild geese are common throughout North America, 
 and may be seen either in the early spring or late fall migrating 
 in immense numbers. They form a staple article of food in 
 many parts of British America, and great numbers are salted 
 down for winter supply. They are trapped in large numbers, 
 as described on page 75, and are hunted with tame geese as 
 decoys, the hunter being secreted behind a screen or covert, 
 and attracting the game by imitating their cries. 
 
 Fish form an agreeable change to the trapper's diet, and may 
 be caught by the hook and Hne, or by spearing. The latteV 
 method requires considerable practice and skill, but is very suc- 
 cessful. The Indians of the North are great experts in the use 
 of the spear, and the number of salmon taken by them annu- 
 ally is enormous. The spear generally consists of five or six 
 steel prongs an inch apart and barbed at the ends. It is 
 mounted on a heavy handle, and when it strikes its victim its 
 grip is sure death. The spearing is generally performed 
 either at the spawning beds or at the falls. 
 
 Salmon trout are generally speared in the night time by boat, 
 the spawning ground, generally a gravel bank near the shore, be- 
 ing the seat of operations. A fire of pitch pine and birch bark 
 is ignited on an elevated ''jack" in the bow of the boat, the 
 "jack" consisting of an ox-muzzle, or other concave wire con- 
 
240 THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 trivance which will hold the inflammable materials. This is se- 
 cured to a post or crotched stick, as a prop, and the spearman 
 stands near the burning mass with his spear in readiness. As his 
 companion in the stern of the boat paddles, he keenly watches 
 for his victim, and, seeing his opportunity, makes his lunge and 
 lands his prize. To become a successful spearman requires 
 much practice and no small degree of skill. To retain one's 
 balance, acquire quickness of stroke, and withal to regulate the 
 aim so as to allow for the refraction of the light in the water, 
 all tend to invest the sport with a degree of skill which only 
 experience can master. 
 
 Fishing through the ice in winter is a rare sport, and large 
 numbers of brook and lake trout are often taken at this season 
 by cutting holes through the ice and fishing with hook and line. 
 The baits commonly used consist of cow's udder or hog's liver, 
 these being especially jDreferred on account of their toughness. 
 Angle worms are also excellent, and any kind of raw meat may 
 be used if other bait is not to be had. 
 
 It is asserted by some sportsmen that bait scented with assa- 
 foetida is much more attractive to the fish, and will insure a cap- 
 ture which would otherwise be impossible. Sweet cicily and 
 anise are also used for the same purpose. When the trout bite 
 lively, fishing through the ice is a most exciting sport, and by 
 the aid of ^'tip-ups" a single person may command a great num- 
 ber of lines. The winter resort of the brook trout is in water 
 two or three feet deep, over sandy beds. The lake trout fre- 
 quent deeper water. 
 
 The holes are made in the ice at intervals of one or two rods, 
 and a line set in each hole. 
 
 The " tip-up " consists of a narrow strip of lath or shingle, 
 with a hole bored through it near the large end. At this end 
 the line is attached, and the hook thrown in the water. A 
 branch is now inserted through the aperture, and its ends are 
 rested across the opening in the ice. No sooner does the fish 
 bite than the long end tips straight in the air, and thus betrays 
 its captive. Ten or fifteen of these contrivances will often 
 keep one pretty busy, and do good service. By some an ordi- 
 nary cut fish pole, arranged on a crotch, is used instead of the 
 tip-ups just described. Pickerel fishing through the ice is a 
 favorite winter sport in many localities. The line should be 
 about thirty feet in length, and the bait should consist of a 
 small, live fish, hooked through the back. A small cork float 
 should be attached to the line at such a distance as will keep 
 
FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 241 
 
 the bait above the bottom, and the superfluous line should be 
 laid in a loose coil near the hole, the end being attached to a 
 small switch or bush, stuck up in the ice near by. The pick- 
 erel, on taking the bait, should be allowed to play out the whole 
 line before being pulled in, as the fish requires this time to fully 
 swallow his prey, after which the hook is sure to hold him firmly. 
 Twenty or thirty lines may thus be attended at once, the bush 
 or twig acting the part of a tii>up, or sentinel. 
 
 Pickerel spearing is another successful mode of capture dur- 
 ing the winter months. A large hole is made in the ice, in 
 about two feet of water, and covered by a spacious box or board 
 hut, six or seven feet square, and provided with a door. The 
 spearman, concealed within, lowers his bait, consisting of an 
 artificial fish with silver fins, made especially for the purpose. 
 This he continually twirls in the water, and as the pickerel ap- 
 proaches the bait, he gradually raises it, until the fish is decoyed 
 nearly to the surface of the water, when a quick stroke of the 
 spear secures his victim, and the fine is again lowered. This is 
 capital sport, and is very successful. 
 
 There is a very curious device for fishing by night commonly 
 employed by some anglers, and sometimes known as the "lantern, 
 or fish trap." Many kinds of fish are attracted by alight, but to 
 use a light as a bait, submerged beneath the water, certainly 
 seems odd. It may be done, however, in the following way : 
 The "fish lantern" used for this purpose consists of a bottle 
 containing a solution of phosphorus in sweet oil. Procure a 
 piece of the stick phosphorus the size of a small cherry, and 
 submerging in a saucer of water, proceed to cut it into small 
 pieces. Have in readiness a three-ounce white glass bottle half 
 filled with sweet oil. Drop the pieces of phosphorus into the 
 oil and cork the bottle tightly. In the space of a few hours the 
 phosphorus will have been completely dissolved, and the con- 
 tents of the bottle will present a thick, luminous fluid, which 
 in a dark room, will afford considerable light. This is the fish 
 lantern. To use it, the cork is firmly inserted and the bottle, 
 with fish line attached, is lowered through the hole in the ice. 
 The water becomes luminous for several feet around, and the 
 unusual brightness attracts the fish in large numbers. ^ They 
 are plainly, discernible, and are readily dispatched with the 
 spear, or captured by a circular net, sunk on the bottom, be- 
 neath the luminous bait. This is certainly an odd way of catch- 
 ing fish, but it is often a very efficacious method. 
 
 It has not been our intention to enter very extensively into 
 
242 THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 the subject of fishing, but only to give such hints as will be 
 found especially useful and practical to the trapper in relation 
 to his food. The above methods, together with those of troll- 
 ing and fly-fishing, are those most commonly employed by trap- 
 pers and hunters generally, and we commend them to the 
 amateur. 
 
 We give, on page 120, a unique device for the capture of 
 fish, which might also be found useful. 
 
 With the above general remarks on the campaign, together 
 with what follows in the detailed articles on the subject, we 
 think that the ground will have been completely covered. Every 
 possible requirement has been anticipated, and every ordinary 
 emergency forseen and provided against. 
 
 THE trapper's SHELTER. 
 
 The life of the professional trapper is a life of hardship and 
 severe exposure, and a man not only requires considerable cour- 
 age, but also great bodily vigor, in order to combat successfully 
 the dangers of such a wild, adventuresome existence. 
 
 The cold and the storm not only imperil his life, but he is 
 often exposed to the attacks of wild beasts. A shelter, there- 
 fore, in one form or another, becomes a necessity while it is 
 always a decided comfort, in comparison to a campaign with- 
 out it. 
 
 The reader will find below descriptions of the various shel- 
 ters alluded to in other parts of this work, and used by trappers 
 throughout the land. 
 
 The most substantial of these is the log shanty, commonly 
 known among trappers as the "home shanty,'^ on account of its 
 being constructed as the only permanent shelter on the trap- 
 ping line. 
 
 It is used as a "home," a place of rendezvous, and a store- 
 house for provisions, furs, and other necessities and valuables. 
 Other temporary shelters, known as bark shanties, are also con- 
 structed along the trapping lines at intervals of five or ten miles, 
 as resting places. These we describe under the proper title. 
 
 Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likely 
 to become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe its mode of 
 construction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventur- 
 ous readers, who aspire to a full taste of wild life. 
 
 Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty. 
 
 It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve 
 
THE TRAPPER S SHELTER. 
 
 243 
 
 The Home Shanty. 
 
244 THE CAMPAIGN., 
 
 by ten feet will be found large enough for ordinary purposes. 
 Select straight logs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole 
 ■number required will be thirty-six. Of these one-half should 
 be twelve feet in length and the other ten. These should now be 
 built up in the square form, on a level piece of ground, laying 
 the ends of the logs over each other, and securing them by 
 notches at the corners, so deep as to allow the edges of the logs to 
 meet. Lay two short logs first, and continue building until all the 
 thirty-six logs are used, and we will now have four symmetrical 
 sides about six feet in height. The place for the door should now 
 be selected. The uppermost log should form its upper outline, 
 and the two sides should be cleanly and straightly cut with a cross- 
 cut saw. The window openings, one or more, may next be cut, 
 commencing beneath the second log from the top, and taking in 
 three beneath it. Replace the logs above, and on the ends 
 of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceed to spike 
 a heavy plank, driving two nails into each log, about five inches 
 apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmly in place, 
 and offer a close-fitting jam for the door, and neat receptacle 
 for the window sashes, which latter may now be put in after the 
 ordinary manner. 
 
 The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides 
 of the hut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as before) 
 across the top of the frame work, and about two feet inside the 
 edge. This should of course be done on both .sides of the hut, 
 after which they should be overlapped at the corners with logs 
 eight feet in length. Next lay two more long logs, parallel with 
 the first two, and about a foot inside them, notching as before. 
 The ends of these should be spanned with beams eight feet in 
 length. Two more long logs are next in order — let them be 
 one foot inside the last two. Overlap these with beams five 
 feet and a half in length, and in the exact centre of these last 
 pieces chop notches for a heavy log for a ridge pole. The gable 
 outline, direct from the ridge pole to the eaves, should now be 
 cut off by the aid of a sharp axe. This may be done either 
 while the pieces are in position, or the line may be marked with 
 a piece of chalk, and the logs taken down in order to accom- 
 plish it. The roof is now required. This should consist either 
 of strips of bark or the rounded sides of logs split off and hol- 
 lowed into troughs. The latter method is preferable, on account 
 of its greater strength and durability, but the bark will answer 
 the purpose very well, and is much more easily obtained. The 
 manner of adjusting the roof pieces is clearly shown in our 
 
DARK SHANTY. 245 
 
 illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollow side up, 
 securing them at top and bottom by nails driven through 
 each into the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that 
 one of these pieces projects well over the gable, on both ends 
 of the hut. These pieces are now overlapped by the second 
 row, and v/ith the addition of the large piece which covers 
 them all at the ridge pole, the roof is complete, and will stand 
 a heavy rain with little or no leaking. The crevices should now 
 be stopped with moss, dried grass or clay, after which the log 
 cabin is complete. "VV'hen the bark roof is made, additional 
 poles may be inserted beneath as props. They should be three 
 or four inches in diameter, and run parallel with the ridge pole, 
 at intervals on the slope, notches being cut to secure them. 
 
 Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be con- 
 structed if desired, but the necessity of this may be done away 
 with by using a small camp stove, and making a small opening 
 in the gable end of the hut for the passage of the pipe. If a 
 stove should not be at hand, and our amateur should decide to 
 "rough it" to the full extent, he may build his fire-place and 
 chimney as follows : It v/ill be necessary to cut away an open- 
 ing in the logs at the gable end, as was done for the door and 
 windows. This should be about three feet square, and the fire 
 place should be built of stone and clay, or cement, to till the 
 opening, and project inside the hut. 
 
 The chininey may then be built up outside in the same man- 
 ner, sufficiently high to overtop the gables. 
 
 Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the 
 hanging of the skins, and any number of cross-poles may be 
 rested across the beams. There are facilities for the swinging 
 of a hammock, if desired, and, in fact, a hut constructed like 
 the foregoing is a perfect one in its way. There are other 
 methods of building a log cabin, but we will content ourselves 
 with what v/e consider the best way of all, and pass on to the 
 
 BARK SHANTY. 
 
 This is made by first driving into the ground two foiked 
 poles seven or eight feet in height and stout enough to sustain 
 a ridge pole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other 
 poles should be rested at intervals of two feet, and sloping to 
 the angle of forty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed 
 should' now be covered with bark, commencing at the ground 
 and allowing the edge of each piece to overlap the one beneath 
 
 17 
 
24^ THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 after the manner of shingles, in order to shed the rain in case 
 of storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose, 
 and the pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by the 
 weight of another series of poles rested against them. The 
 sides of the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being 
 usually left open to face the fire, which the trapper generally 
 builds a few feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is 
 well to select some spot protected from the wind, close to the 
 foot of a mountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the 
 open side face the direction most sheltered. 
 
 If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the 
 sides and top, but this is not required where the fire is used. 
 
 This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this 
 section, and certainly looks very comfortable. 
 
 TENTS. 
 
 Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old 
 veteran trappers of all countries, and even to the amateur there 
 is a charm in a shelter constructed from the rude materials of 
 the woods which the portable tents do not possess. 
 
 Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and ama- 
 teurs, and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the trapper's outfit, 
 and where time is valuable, do away with the labor which the 
 construction of a hut or shanty involves. 
 
 Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by 
 the trapper are the house-tent, fly-tent, and half-tent, or shelter- 
 tent. 
 
 The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, 
 closed on one end and buttoning up at the other. The sides are 
 perpendicular for two or three feet, before the slope commences, 
 and the stay-ropes are fastened to the eaves. 
 
 The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, with 
 ropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown over a ridge 
 pole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sides 
 are held to the proper slope by tightening and pegging the side 
 ropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which 
 can be lowered, and the whole tent may be pegged close to the 
 ground. 
 
 The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, 
 the bark shanty already described. It consists of a strip of 
 canvas, having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched 
 over three slanting poles, and the ends are brought down and 
 securely pegged. This is clearly shown in our illustration. 
 
TENTS. 
 
 247 
 
 We do not propose giving any extended directions for mak- 
 ing tents, as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a general 
 thing, can be bought for a figure which would render their do- 
 mestic manufacture of little saving or profit. The shelter-tent, 
 however, is so useful an affair, and withal so very simple 
 
 made, that we will give a few directions in regard to its manu- 
 facture. It should be made from stout cotton drilling, or very 
 heavy sheeting. Let the piece be about thirteen feet in length 
 by six in width. Each end of the piece should now be cut to 
 a rectangular point, commencing to cut at a distance of three 
 feet from each corner. In order to render the cloth water- 
 proof, it should now be dipped in a pail containing a solution of 
 equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a couple of handfuls of 
 each, in tepid water. It should be allowed to remain several 
 minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally, after 
 which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment not only 
 renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum tends to 
 make it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a 
 tent thus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth until it goes 
 out, without doing the slightest damage. 
 
248 
 
 THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, 
 and is clear from our illustration. The poles should be three 
 or four in number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the 
 ground at the angle denoted. The two outside poles should be 
 seven feet apart, and the intermediate ones equally disposed. 
 The tent piece should now be laid over the poles, and the ends 
 brought down and pegged to the ground at the apex, and rear 
 comers of each side through loops, which should have been 
 previously attached to these parts. A tent, thus arranged, 
 affords a safe shelter from the wind or a moderate storm, and 
 with a bright fire in front, is warm and comfortable. 
 
 BEDS AND BEDDING. 
 
 Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely 
 rolling himself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow ; but 
 we do not propose to encourage or recommend any such half- 
 way comfort as this, when by a very little labor a portable bed 
 
 can be prepared on which the weary hunter can rest as serenely 
 as if slumbering on the congenial softness of a hair mattrass. 
 A bed of this kind we illustrate, and it can be made in the fol- 
 lowing manner : Procure a large piece of canvas, sacking or 
 other strong, coarse material six and a half feet square. If a 
 single piece of this size cannot be found, several parts may he 
 sewed together to the required dimensions. After which two 
 opposite s]^s should be firmly stitched together, thus forming 
 
BEDS AND BEDDING. 
 
 249 
 
 a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to use the expression. 
 Two stout poles seven or eight feet in length and as large as the 
 wrist should now be cut. Insert them through the bag, allow- 
 ing the ends to project equally on each side. These ends 
 should now be rested on two logs, one placed across each end of 
 the canvas. In order to hold the poles in place notches should 
 be cut in the logs at such distances as will draw the bag to its 
 full width. The interior of the canvas should now be filled 
 with dried grass, leaves, moss or spruce boughs, after which 
 the bedstead and bed is complete. 
 
 The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the 
 warm filling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and straw 
 mattrass combined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp 
 ground, and by the addition of a blanket above, insuring 
 warmth on all sides. If the logs are not at hand four forked 
 stakes may be used, driving them firmly into the ground at 
 such distances as will draw the bag to its full width, when the 
 poles are rested upon them. If by the weight of the body the 
 forked props should tend to incline towards each other this 
 trouble may be easily remedied by inserting short poles as braces 
 between them. If desired a bed of this kind may be used as a 
 hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble. It is only 
 necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their full width by 
 a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter be deeply notch- 
 ed at the tips in order to receive the bed supports. The joints 
 should then be tightly bound with stout twine in order to pre- 
 vent shpping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-air by 
 ropes at each end, and the tired trapper may swing himself to 
 sleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the 
 ropes should be attached at the joints, using a loop of six feet 
 for each end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be 
 made by doubling the rope and winding twine about it, leaving 
 only a small aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of 
 other ropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this pre- 
 caution the unpleasant experience of being turned or dumped 
 out of bed will be impossible. For bed clothes a woollen 
 blanket should always be carried, and if convenient a large bag 
 of thick Canton flannel is a most excellent acquisition. 
 
 Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, 
 hunters and camping parties, and are very warm and comfort- 
 able. They should be nearly seven feet in length and of a 
 *" loose, easy fit." With one of these contrivances it is impos- 
 sible to " kick the clothes off" and the warmth is continual in- 
 
250 THE CANPAIGN. 
 
 stead of " intermittent," and even on the bare ground it is said 
 to be sufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general 
 use, but we can confidently recommend the suspended bed 
 above described as decidedly preferable. 
 
 There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the 
 light fibred silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the large corded 
 variety of several pounds weight and capable of holding many 
 persons. They are an established article of trade, and as the 
 details of their manufacture would be of little practical use to 
 the reader, we will leave them without further consideration. 
 They can be had at almost any sporting emporium, at com- 
 paratively small cost. 
 
 TENT CARPETING. 
 
 We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bed- 
 stead and recommend its use v/henever possible ; but when the 
 bed is desired to be made on the ground the following method 
 is usually employed, by which the whole interior of the tent, 
 hut or shanty is carpeted with a soft, even covering of green. 
 
 Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be 
 from the tips of the branches where the wood is not too large. 
 Commence at the back part of the shelter, and lay doAvn a row 
 of the boughs with the butt of the branch towards the front. 
 Overlap these with another nearer row and continue the opera- 
 tion, laying the evergreen as evenly as possible until the whole 
 interior is smoothly covered. The projecting ends at the front, 
 should now be secured by the weight of a medium sized log, or 
 by a pole pegged down firmly at intervals. A similar log should 
 now be laid at the back portion of the shelter over the tips of 
 the boughs after which the bed is complete, and will be found 
 easy and comfortable in proportion to the care and skill shown 
 in its construction. A blanket should be thrown over the 
 boughs before reclining to rest, as the fresh green gives forth 
 considerable dampness. 
 
 If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. 
 These consist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one side with 
 Indian rubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They 
 are warm and comfortable, and a valuable acquisition to the 
 trapper's outfit. There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having 
 equal water-proof qualities but which does not possess the 
 warmth of the former. Either will be found useful. 
 
 So much for beds and bedding. If the reader will now turn 
 
TENT CARPETING. 
 
 25' 
 
 his attention to the following section, ^'The Trapper's Miscel- 
 lany," he will find much in detail of«what has only been alluded 
 to in the present chapter, besides other hints of great value In 
 reference to a trapping campaign. 
 
BOOK VIII. 
 
 THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY. 
 
 UR enthusiastic novice, as he starts out into the 
 wilderness, should not be unmindful of the 
 swarms of blood-thirsty flies, gnats and mosqui- 
 toes, which infest the woods in the summer and 
 early autumn, and are there lying in wait for him. 
 These often become a source of great annoyance 
 to the woodsman, and more often a source of 
 positive bodily suffering. 
 
 Although trapping is not generally carried on 
 during this season, the preparations for the com- 
 ing campaign, including the building of shanties, 
 transporting of traps, etc., are generally made at 
 this time, and unless some perventive is used, 
 the persecutions of the mosquitoes and other 
 winged vermin, become almost unbearable. 
 
 INSECT OINTMENTS. 
 
 These insects seem to have a special aversion for the scent 
 of pennyroyal — an herb growing commonly in sandy localities — 
 and a single plant rubbed upon the face and hands will often 
 greatly check their attacks. 
 
 The oil of pennyroyal is better, however, and an ointment 
 made by straining one ounce of the oil into two or three ounces 
 of pure melted lard, or mutton tallow, forms an excellent anti- 
 dote. This may be carried in a little box or bottle, in the 
 pocket, and applied as occasion requires. Plain mutton tallow 
 is also a most excellent ointment for general use, and in the case 
 of bruises or slight wounds, will give great relief. 
 
 Another preparation in very common use amongst hunters and 
 woodsmen, although not quite as agreeable in odor, consists of 
 a mixture of common tar and sweet oil, in equal parts. By 
 some this liniment is considered superior to the other, inasmuch 
 as it also prevents tanning, and is beneficial to the complexion. 
 
 2:5 
 
256 THE trapper's MISCELLANY. 
 
 During the night time, the tent or shanty often becomes 
 swarmed with the winged pests, and their nocturnal assaults are 
 proverbial for their pertinacity and severity. Their thirst for blood 
 overcomes every other instinct, and pennyroyal often ceases to 
 have any effect. Our Adirondack guide, in narrating his expe- 
 rience with these insect vampires, even says that on a cer- 
 tain night, becoming exasperated at their indomitable persever- 
 ance, and, getting tired of the monotonous occupation of spread- 
 ing ointment, he arose, lit his candle, and drove the creatures 
 out of the tent. He then buttoned up the opening, and retired 
 to rest. A storm came up in the night, and so completely had 
 his canvas been riddled by the bills of the mosquitoes, that the 
 rain poured through his tent as through a sieve. 
 
 We have heard of the man who, when pursued by hungry 
 mosquitoes, took refuge beneath a large chaldron, and, by the 
 aid of a stone, clinched the blood-thirsty bills as they protru- 
 ded in quest of his hfe-blood, until, by the united efforts of the 
 winged captives, the chaldron was lifted and wafted out of sight, 
 as if it were a feather. 
 
 One story is just as true as the other, and a summer in the 
 Adirondack woods will tend to strengthen, rather than diminish, 
 the behef in either. 
 
 The smoke of smouldering birch bark will effectually drive 
 away the mosquitoes from the tents at night. This method is 
 commonly known as " the smudge,"' and is more fully described in 
 another part of this work. 
 
 The smell of the smoke is often unpleasant at first, but it is 
 always preferable to the insect bites. 
 
 Mosquitoes are not the only vampires which infest our wooded 
 lands. The "punkeys" and " midgets " can outstrip t^.iemfor 
 voracity, and the painful character of the wound which they in- 
 flict. The "punkey," or "black-fly," as it is called, is a small, 
 black gnat, about the size of a garden ant, and the bite of the 
 insect often results very seriously. The midget is a minute lit- 
 tle creature, and is the most everlastingly sticky and exasperat- 
 ing pest in the catalogue of human torments. They 
 fly in swarms of thousands, and go for tlieir victim " en masse" 
 and the face, hands and neck are soon covered as if with " hay 
 seed." They stick where they first light, and commence 0])era- 
 tions immediately. All endeavors to shake them off are fruit- 
 less, and their combined attacks are soon most painfully reahzed. 
 Their bites produce great redness and swelling, and the itching 
 is most intolerable. Happily for the v/oodsman, the "smudge " 
 
INSECT OINTMENTS. 
 
 257 
 
 and pennyroyal ointment are effectual preventives against 
 the attacks of both midgets and black flies, as well as mosqui- 
 toes : and no one who values his life or good looks should ven- 
 ture on a woodland excursion in the summer months without a 
 supply of this latter commodity. In conclusion, we would re- 
 mark that, to the mosquito the blood of the intemperate seems 
 to have a special attraction, and any one who wishes to enjoy 
 comparative freedom from the attacks of these pests, should 
 abstain from the use of alcoholic stimulants. It is a too preva- 
 lent idea among trappers that whiskey and rum are necessary 
 adjuncts to a trapping campaign, and many a trapper would 
 about as soon think of leaving his traps at home as his whisky 
 bottle. This is all a mistake. Any one who has not sufficient 
 strength of constitution to withstand the hardships and expo- 
 sures of a trapping life, without the especial aid of stimulants, 
 should stay at home. We are now alluding to the habitual use 
 of such stimulants. It is always well to be provided with a flask 
 of wliisky or brandy, in case of illness, but it should only be re- 
 sorted to in such an event. For a mere chill, we recommend 
 the use of red pepper tea. A simple swallow of this drink, 
 (made simply by soaking a red pepper in a cup of hot water) 
 will restore warmth much quicker than three times the amount 
 of any alcoholic stimulant. It is 
 not our purpose to extend into a 
 lengthened temperance lecture, but 
 only to discourage the wide-spread 
 idea that stimulants ^lxq necessities 
 in the life of the trapper. Midg- 
 ets, mu^> qui toes and punkeys de- 
 light over a victim with alcohol in 
 his vein>, and while to a healthy 
 subject the bites are of only brief 
 annoyance, to the intemperate they 
 often result in painful, obstinate 
 sores. 
 
 In addition to the various oint- 
 ments used, it is well to be pro- 
 vided with a head-net, such as we 
 illustrate. Nets of this kind are 
 specially made for sportsmen, 
 and consist of a spiral wire 
 frimework, covered with mosquito netting, and of such a size an 
 to slip easily on the head. 
 
z^S 
 
 THE TRAPPER S MISCELLANY. 
 
 They are easily made, as our engraving would indicate. 
 A netting attachment for the hat is also an acquisition, espe- 
 cially in open woods, free from overhanging branches or dense 
 thickets. Such a netting may be secured to the edge of the hat 
 brim, and gathered with an elastic at the lower edge. This 
 elastic will close snugly around the neck when in use, and at 
 other times may be drawn above the brim and allowed to rest 
 on top of the crown. 
 
 The portable hat brim, which we illustrate, is an article of trade 
 in common use among sportsmen, and particularly the 
 angler. Our engraving (a) shows the article separate. It is 
 made of cloth, and is kept in its circular shape by a steel 
 spring band at the circumference, between the two sides. It 
 
 may be attached to any hat, 
 and will act as a most effec- 
 tual shelter to the rays of 
 a hot sun. 
 
 The netting above allu- 
 ded to may be attached to 
 such a brim, and applied to 
 the edge of the hat when 
 desired. This is shown at 
 (d), which also indicates 
 the manner of adjustment 
 of the brim. Such a brim 
 "will often do good service, 
 and may be obtained at al- 
 most any sporting emporium 
 at trifling cost. It is porta- 
 ble in every sense of the word, being easily bent and packed 
 away in the pocket. 
 
" DUG OUT," OR LOG CANOE. 
 
 259 
 
 
 BOAT BUILDING. 
 
 Where trapping is carried on along 
 the banks of the lakes aid rivers, a boat 
 oi some kind becomes almost a positive 
 necessity. 
 
 The following examples represent 
 those in most general use. Perhaps 
 the most common form of the "rough 
 and ready " order of boats, is that 
 called the — 
 
 "DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE. 
 
 It's general appearance is well indica-t^r^ 
 ted by the accompanying illustration, fjj 
 With the proper tools, one of these ca- 
 noes is easily made. A sharp axe, an ' ^^i^^affll|||N||||{JBff/^^ 
 adze, a shaving knife, a round edged 
 adze, and a small auger, are principally * 
 necessary ; and a cross-cut saw, broad- 
 axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will 
 also be found useful. 
 
 In any case the log should not be 
 much less than two feet in diameter, 
 perfectly sound, and free from knots. If 
 this precaution is observed, the result 
 will be all the more satisfactory, and the -Mj_ 
 canoe can be cut so tliin, as to render it 3*j&Bllll|l|B>?" 
 a light burden ; being easily carried on "^^■||1B^^^^^ 
 the shoulders. 
 
 A pine log is generally chosen for 
 a dugout, on account of the lightness 
 of the wood, and the ease with which 
 it can 1 :e worked. Butternut, cotton- 
 wood and white wood, are also excellent, ^ 
 and indeed almost any sound log of y)f| 
 large size will answer the purpose. ^ * ' 
 
 For a dug-out of good size, the log * ^^^HIE^ 
 should be ten or more feet in length. 
 The first thing to be done is to cut a ^JIP^C?''^^ 
 
 flat surface on one side of the log, from " "" "^ ' 
 
 €nd to end. This indicates the bottom * ^' ' '^.j-^ 
 
 of the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn 
 away, in the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration. 
 
26o BOAT-BUILDING. 
 
 It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal 
 lengths. In the centre division, the wood may be cut down 
 to a straight line to a depth of about eight inches from the 
 upper surface. The gradual curve to the bow and stern of 
 the canoe should start from each end of this flat cut, and 
 extend to the upper edge of the log, the guiding line being 
 made on the sides of the log by a piece of chalk. The adze 
 will come into good use in trimming off the wood on these 
 curves. AVhen this upper outhne is accomplished, the log may 
 be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities 
 rounded off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and 
 when performed, the bottom curves should be made by chopping 
 away the wood in the curves shown in the lower outline of 
 our illustration. This curve should also be marked out with 
 chalk, and should commence a little nearer the end of the log 
 than the curve on the upper side. Shave off the wood to a 
 blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern. The rough 
 form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid of the draw- 
 knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly finished. 
 
 It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful 
 for this purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge 
 and chisel. The digging out is of course the most tedious 
 part ; but with sharp tools it is a comparatively easy matter. 
 When the great bulk of the wood is taken out, the interior 
 should be finshed with a howel or round adze ; and the sides 
 may be worked to one inch and a half in thickness if desired. 
 The writer once saw one of these canoes of most exquisite 
 workmanship, being only one inch in thickness, and so light as 
 to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course such perfection as 
 this is fiot necessary for ordinary purposes ; although where the 
 canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, it is well 
 to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger may 
 be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the 
 following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the 
 wood is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of 
 the canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger 
 barely makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the 
 tool, and if the thickness measures more than is required, 
 insert into the hole a slender piece of wood exactly two inches 
 in length ; push it in as far as it will go, and you may safely 
 work until you reach the end of it. By this method the thick- 
 ness may be gauged in different parts of the boat sufficiently 
 to acquire a fair average thickness, and there is no danger of 
 
THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE. 26 1 
 
 cutting through. The gimlet should be allowed to extend out- 
 side of the canoe only sufficiently to be detected, and the holes 
 thus made will seldom give any trouble as leaks. If, however, 
 this should be the case, a little putty or pitch will remedy the 
 difficulty. 
 
 The "dug-out" maybe constructed of any size, and of any 
 desired shape, but the above is the usual type. 
 
 When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, 
 and smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly water- 
 proof. 
 
 For lightness and portabihty there is no boat more desirable 
 or more unique than — 
 
 THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE. 
 
 Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees at- 
 tain a large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is at 
 hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected 
 to attain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit in 
 the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed 
 sufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indian 
 canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength 
 and lightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as nat- 
 urally to the making of these commodities, as if it were almost 
 an hereditary habit with them ; and few men, even with the most 
 exhaustive practice, can compete with the Indian in the combined 
 result of strength, lightness, durability, external beauty, and 
 nicety of work, which are the united characteristics of the 
 typical bark canoe. 
 
 The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is 
 about twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired 
 dimensions, to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size 
 will carry fifteen or twenty persons, and may be transported 
 with ease upon the shoulders of two strong men. The smaller 
 size, above mentioned, is capable of carrying two persons, and is 
 a light load for a single man. 
 
 In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gun- 
 wale, or upper framework. This should consist of four strips 
 of cedar, ash, or other light, strong wood ; two for each side of 
 the boat. For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be 
 about twelve feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of 
 an inch. They should be tied together in pairs at the ends, and 
 the two pairs then joined at the same place. The object of 
 18 
 
262 BOAT-BUILDING. 
 
 these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and to 
 offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured 
 between them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready 
 for the birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be 
 in one large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select 
 some large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences. 
 Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cut 
 in the bark through the v/hole length of the piece, after which 
 it should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimes 
 happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single 
 piece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but this 
 is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out, as 
 seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with 
 an awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded 
 with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the 
 edge of each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and 
 continue to sew them on until the area of bark measures about 
 four and a half feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark 
 colored sides of the bark all facing the same way. Next 
 select a flat piece of ground, and mark off a distance of ten 
 feet, or two feet less than the length of tlie gunwales. At each 
 end of the space two tall stakes should be driven into the 
 ground about three inches apart. Now turn the bark on the 
 ground with its white side uppermost, and fold it loosely and 
 evenly through the long centre. In this folded condition it 
 should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between the 
 stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting bark be- 
 yond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered 
 by folding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges 
 firmly to the sides of the rude form of. the canoe, which now 
 presents itself. When this is done, each end should be sup- 
 ported on a log or stone ; this will cause the bottom line to sink 
 downwards at about the proper curve. We are now ready for 
 the gunwale. Lay it in the proper position, fitting the edges of 
 the bark between the two strips on each side, and sewing 
 around the whole with a winding stitch, exactly after the manner 
 of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf fan. The inside of the 
 canoe should now be lined with long strips of cedar running 
 through the entire length of the boat if possible, but if not, 
 should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends. These pieces 
 should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarter to half 
 an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These 
 are generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and 
 
THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE. 
 
 263 
 
 a quarter of an inch in thickness. 
 Any light flexible wood will answer 
 the purpose, and even barrel hoops 
 when attainable will do very well. 
 These ribs should be bent to fit the 
 interior of the canoe crosswise, either 
 close together, or with equal distances 
 between them and the ends should 
 then be firmly secured beneath the 
 gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch 
 through the bark. For a canoe of 
 twelve feet in length, the width should 
 be about two feet, and in order to keep 
 the gunwales firm, two or more cross- 
 pieces should be inserted, and lashed ' 
 firmly at their ends as our illustration 55:5^ 
 shows. The centre third of the length ,Y' 
 of the canoe should be parallel at the '-:^^ 
 sides, and if two braces, two feet in ^ 
 length are placed at each end of this C5v^ 
 third, the shape will be about perfect. v-^\^ 
 We now have a bark canoe of consid- ' 
 erable strength and durabiHty, and .^ 
 it only awaits to be made water-proof ^^ 
 for final use. In order to accomplish v^ 
 this all the seams outside, and the "''* 
 entire interior of the canoe should, be 
 smeared with pitch, after which its • 
 floating qualities may be tested with 
 confidence. Should any leaks occur 
 their where-abouts are easily detected, 
 and an additional application of pitch 
 will remedy the difficulty. The In- 
 dians in sewing their bark canoes use 
 tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and 
 grasses, in lieu of thread, and even 
 with these inferior materials often 
 attain to such perfection in compact 
 sewing, as to render the use of pitch 
 unnecessary for water-proof purposes. 
 Such skill is rarely attained by the 
 white man, and the art of making a 
 
 water-proof canoe, even out of a single piece of bark, is 
 no means an easy task without the aid of tar or pitch. 
 
264 THE trapper's MISCELLANY. 
 
 For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With 
 the above directions we are sure no one could go actray, and we 
 are equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would pre- 
 sent advantages of lightness and portability which no other style 
 of boat v/ould possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be 
 made from basswood, hemlock, or spruce bark ; but they are at 
 best, very rude and clumsy in comparison with the birch bark. 
 They are generally made after the principles of the above de- 
 scribed ; either sewing or nailing the edges of the bark together, 
 and smearing every joint and seam profusely with pitch, and add- 
 ing gunwales, lining, and ribs. 
 
 A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT. 
 
 The follov/ing gives an easy method of making a light and 
 serviceable bateau, v/hich any boy, with moderate ingenuity or 
 skill, could easily construct : — 
 
 Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thick- 
 ness, eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in 
 length, which we will consider the required length of the boat. 
 These boards should be well seasoned, and free from knots, and 
 at least one of the sides should be straight. 
 
 Next, vv^ith the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the 
 ends of one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (e) repre- 
 senting the forward, (^) the stern. The curve of the bow should 
 commence at about four feet from the end, and take a rounded 
 slope upward, leaving about ten inches of width at the end of 
 the board (e). The stern should be cut at the angle shown at 
 (g)y commencing at about two and a half feet from the extrem- 
 ity of the board and continuing upward to about ten inches from 
 the upper edge. The board thus shaped should now be laid 
 evenly on the other, and the outline of the cut portions care- 
 fully scratched upon it, after which the second board should be 
 cut in a similar manner as the first, so as to form an exact du- 
 plicate . 
 
 This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one 
 over the other, and the exact center of their long edges ascer- 
 tained. Marking off about five inches on each side of this cen- 
 tre on both boards. 
 
 Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three 
 feet in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end , 
 of this piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each 
 of the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and 
 
A LIGHT HOME MADE BOAT. 
 
 265 
 
 nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite 
 first. We will now leave them and give our at- 
 tention to the bow piece, which is the next re- ^iij 
 
 quisite. This is shown at {a\ and consists of a solid 
 piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and 
 hewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illus- 
 tration. It should first be cut three-cornered, the 
 inside face being about eight inches, and the other 
 two ten inches. Its length should be about eleven 
 inches, and its under side should be sloped off on a 
 line with the under curve of the bows. At about //' ,j'f 
 five inches from the inner face, and on each side, a 
 piece should be sawn out, one inch in thickness, thus 
 leaving on each side a notch which will exactly receive 
 the side-boards of the boat, as seen at {a). 
 
 The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the 
 boards should be drawn together, fitted in the notches 
 and securely spiked with large nails. A bow piece 
 of this kind adds greatly to the strength of a boat, 
 and will stand much rough usage. The board for 
 the stern should next be prepared. This should be 
 ten inches in width and two feet in length, and should 
 be securely nailed between the ends of the boards' 
 at the stern, as shown at {g\ being afterwards over-' 
 lapped on the top by a board of similar size, as our 
 illustration shows, at (c). The bottom of the boat is 
 now easily made by naihng boards crosswise, sawing j ' 
 off the projecting ends close to the curve of the: 11' 
 side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in place, 
 the seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, 
 using a blunt chisel, or hard wooden wedge, and a 
 mallet. The seats should now be put in, as these are j 
 not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity, acting 
 as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be 
 two in number, one being placed three feet from the 
 stern and the other one foot beyond the brace board 
 originally nailed across the top of the boat. The 
 seats should be cut at the ends in a curve corres- 
 ponding to the part of the boat in which they are 
 placed, and should be situated about a foot from the 
 bottom of the boat, their ends resting on short boards 
 beneath them against the sides of the boat. These "^■ 
 
 are indicated by the dotted lines (h h) in the diagram. When 
 
 ' L 
 
2^6 
 
 THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY. 
 
 thus resting they should be securely fastened in place by strong 
 screws, driven through the sides of 
 the boat into their ends {ff\ allow- 
 ing some one to sit on the seat mean- 
 while to keep it in place. Small cleats 
 should now be tacked to the bottom 
 of the boat, beneath the seat and un- 
 derneath the seat itself, in order to 
 keep the props in place ; after which 
 the original brace board across the 
 top of the boat may be knocked off 
 and the bateau is complete and ready 
 for service. A boat thus made is 
 quite comely in shape, and may be 
 painted to suit the fancy. Should a 
 rudder be required, the broad board at 
 the stern offers a good place of attach- 
 ment, and oar-locks may be adjusted 
 at the proper places. These may con- 
 sist of a pair of cleats attached to the 
 inside of the boat, as seen in the 
 illustration. In case it may be found 
 difficult to obtain the large single 
 boards for the sides of the boat, 
 two or more narrow ones will answer 
 the purpose, although not as per- 
 fectly. In this case they should first 
 be firmly attached together by cleats, 
 securely screwed to the inside. When 
 first put on the water the boat will 
 probably leak in places, but if left to 
 soak for a few hours the wood will 
 generally swell sufficiently to com- 
 pletely close the crevices. If, how- 
 ever, the leak should continue, that 
 particular part of the boat should be 
 re-caulked and smeared with pitch. 
 This latter substance is of great 
 value to the trapper, not only in boat 
 building but in the construction of 
 his shanties and in other various 
 ^^ ways. It will most effectually stop 
 
 almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always 
 
 be applied hot. 
 
SNOW-SHOES. 267 
 
 THE SCOW. 
 
 The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow 
 for considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or scull- 
 ing ; but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed 
 bows may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made 
 perfectly straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes 
 at the ends, and both bow and stern are of the same width, and 
 an ordinary flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. 
 In many cases a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and 
 is certainly much more easily made. 
 
 We have thus described a few of the most common instances 
 of boats used by trappers, and with our full description and il- 
 lustrations no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost 
 an indispensable requisite to the trapper, and any one of the 
 foregoing will be found sufficient for all ordinary purposes. 
 
 A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a 
 pusher or mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist 
 of a pole seven or eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with 
 an attachment of the shape of the letter U. This may be con- 
 structed in two pieces, firmly screwed to opposite sides of the 
 end of the pole, and so formed as to present a curved crotch. 
 Such a stick will be found very useful for pushing through 
 weeds and muddy places. A simple pole trimmed so as to leave 
 a crotch at the end will also answer the purpose very well. 
 
 SNOW-SHOES. 
 
 These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper 
 where he pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the" 
 prevalence of deep snows. When properly made they permit 
 the wearer to walk over the surface of the snow with perfect 
 ease ; where, without them, travel would be extremely difficult 
 if not impossible. 
 
 In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and 
 neighboring districts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In 
 the latter localities the " snow-shoe race "forms one of the favor- 
 ite sports of the season, and young and old alike join in its 
 mysteries. Like riding on the velocipede, walking on snow- 
 shoes looks '^ easy enough," but we notice that a few somer- 
 saults are usually a convincing argument that the art is not as 
 simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes is apt 
 
268 THE trapper's MISCELLANY. 
 
 to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in order to get 
 used to tiie strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarily 
 well-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and 
 practice. There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, 
 they will land you, and they seem to take especial delight in 
 stepping on each other and turning their wearer upside down. 
 The principal secret of success (and one may as well know it at 
 the start, as to learn it at the expense of a pint of snow down 
 his back) consists in taking steps sufficiently long to bring the 
 widest portion of the stepping shoe beyond that of the other, 
 keeping the feet rather far apart and stepping pretty high. By 
 observing these precautions, and trusting in Providence, much 
 embarrassment may be saved, and an hour's effort will thor- 
 oughly tame the unruly appendages, which at best do not per- 
 mit of much grace or elegance of gait. 
 
 To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute ne- 
 cessity, and trapping in many cases would be impossible with- 
 out them. They are thus brought fully within the scope of our 
 volume, and we give a few simple directions for their manufac- 
 ture. Our illustration gives the correct shape of the shoe. 
 The framework should consist of a strip of ash, hickory or 
 some other elastic wood, bent into the form indicated and 
 wound around the ends with twine or strips of hide. The 
 length of the piece should be about six feet, more or less, in pro- 
 portion to the size of the individual who proposes to wear the 
 shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it may be rendered 
 an easy matter by the application of boiling water. Across the 
 front part two strips of stout leather, or other tough hide, are 
 then fastened, and these further secured together by three or 
 four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows. 
 
 In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing 
 was made, the net work was constructed from strips of moose 
 hide, which were interlaced much after the manner of an ordi- 
 nary cane-seated chair. Strips of leather, deer skin, or even 
 split cane, above alluded to, may also be used, and the lacing 
 may be either as our illustration represents, or in the simpler 
 rectangular woof seen in ordinary cloth. 
 
 In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should be 
 wound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwise 
 with strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a con- 
 tinuous security, and the whole interior, with the exception of 
 the space at the front between the cross pieces, should be 
 neatly filled with the next work. It is well to run the first lines 
 
SNOW-SHOES. 
 
 269 
 
 across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the wind- 
 ings of the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter 
 X, the two other cords should be in- 
 terlaced, after the manner shown in 
 the cut. This forms a secure and 
 not very complicated network, and 
 is the style usually adopted by the In- 
 dian makers. 
 
 There is another mode of attach- 
 ing the lace-work to the bow which is 
 also commonly employed, and con- 
 sists in a series of holes bored at 
 regular intervals through the wood. 
 The winding is thus dispensed with, 
 but the bow is sometimes weakened 
 by the operation, and we are inclined 
 to recommend the former method in 
 preference. In attaching the shoe, 
 the ball of the foot should be set on 
 the second cross piece, and there se- 
 cured by a strip of hide, which should 
 be first adjusted as seen in the en- 
 graving, being afterward tied over the 
 foot and then behind the ankle. 
 
 Snow-shoes are made in other ways, 
 but we believe that the typical Indian 
 snow-shoe above described is the 
 best. 
 
 THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE. 
 
 For winter traffic over deep snows 
 there is no better sled in the world 
 than the Indian toboggan. To the 
 trapper during a winter campaign it is 
 often an indispensable convenience, 
 and without it the Indian hunters of the 
 North would find great difficulty in 
 getting their furs to market. All 
 through the winter season the various 
 trading posts of Canada are constantly 
 visited by numbers of Indian trappers, many of whom have 
 travelled hundreds of miles on their snow-shoes with their 
 
270 THE TRAPPERS MISCELLANY. 
 
 heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at their market they sell or 
 trade their stock of furs, and likewise dispose of their tobog- 
 gans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aid them in their long 
 tramp homewards. 
 
 In Canada and northward the toboggan is in ver}^ extensive 
 use, both for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite 
 commonly met with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and 
 is especially appreciated by the youthful population, who are 
 fond of coasting over the crust of snow. For this purpose there 
 is no other sled like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall de- 
 
 scribe will easily accommodate two or three boys, and will glide 
 over a crust of snow with great ease and rapidity. To the trap- 
 per it is especially valuable for all purposes of transportation. 
 The flat bottom rests upon the surface of the snow, and the 
 v/eight being thus distributed a load of two or three hundred 
 pounds will often make but little impression and can be drawn 
 v/ith marvellous ease. Our illustration gives a very clear idea 
 of the sled, and it can be made in the following Avay: the first 
 requisite is a board about eight feet in length and sixteen or 
 more inches in width. Such a board may be procured at any 
 saw- mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose, although hick- 
 ory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should be planed 
 or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch, and should 
 be free from knots. If a single board of the required width is 
 not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured side by 
 side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in the mid- 
 dle, using wTouifrht nails and clinching them deeply into the board 
 on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred, 
 if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden 
 cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board. 
 Four old broom-sticks, cu!^, in the required lengths, will answer 
 
THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE. 27 1 
 
 this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks 
 of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are 
 next needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in 
 thickness exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a 
 few pairs of leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf 
 skin. With these in readiness we may now commence the work 
 of putting the parts together. Begin by laying the cross pieces 
 at equal distances along the board ; across these and near their 
 ends lay the two side pieces, as seen in the illustration. By the 
 aid of a gimlet or awl, four holes should now be made through 
 the board, beneath the end of each cross piece, and also directly 
 under the side piece. It is well to mark with a pencil, the va- 
 rious points for the holes, after which the sticks can be removed 
 and the work much more easily performed. The four holes 
 should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to mark the 
 four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to make 
 other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen in the 
 illustration. The line on these can also be marked with the 
 pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. 1 hese 
 should also be an inch apart, and only tw^o in number at each 
 point, one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are 
 made the board should be turned over, in order to complete 
 preparations on the other side. The object of these various 
 holes is for the passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose 
 of securing the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to pre- 
 vent these loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves 
 should next be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing 
 the leather string to sink into the weed, where it is securely pro- 
 tected from injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this 
 purpose, the making of the grooves being much more easily and 
 perfectly accomplished with this than w^ith the jack-knife. When 
 the under side is thus finished the board may be turned over and 
 the cross pieces and sides again arranged in place as already de- 
 scribed. Secure the pieces to the board by the leather strings 
 through the various holes, always knotting on the upper surface, 
 and taking care that the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the 
 cross pieces will require a double cross stitch through the four 
 holes beneath, in order to secure the side pieces as well. This 
 is plainly shown in the small diagram {a). The front end of each 
 side piece underneath should now be sharpened to a point,to allow 
 for the bend at the front of the toboggan. The cross piece at 
 this end should be secured to the under side of the board, so 
 that as it bends over it will appear on the upper edge, as our 
 
272 THE TRAPPERS MISCELLANY. 
 
 illustration shows. The board should next be bent with a grace- 
 ful curve, and thus held in position by a lope or strip of leather 
 at each extremity of the end cross piece and attached to the 
 ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving. If the 
 bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board, the 
 application of boiUng water will render it pliable. The draw 
 strings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross 
 piece, and our toboggan is now complete. 
 
 It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of 
 merchandize and will be found to draw over the surface 
 of the snow with perfect ease. For coasting over the crust 
 there is nothing like it. Such a toboggan as we have described 
 will easily accommodate three boys, the one at the stern being 
 provided with a sharp stick for steering, and the front occupant 
 holding firmly to the draw strings. The toboggan is easily 
 made, and will do good service either for traffic or sport. 
 
 CURING SKINS. 
 
 This department of the trapper's art is one of the most im- 
 portant and necessary, as affecting pecuniary profits. The 
 value of a skin in the fur market depends entirely upon the care 
 with which it is taken from the animal and afterward prepared, 
 and without a knowledge on this subject the young trapper will 
 in vain seek for high prices for his furs. Large quantities of 
 valuable skins are sent to our markets annually by inexperi- 
 enced amateur trappers, and in many cases rare and beautiful 
 furs have been almost spoiled by want of care in skinning and 
 curing. The rules are simple and easily followed, a little care 
 being all that is necessary to insure most perfect success. In 
 every case the skin should be removed shortly after death, or at 
 least before it has become tainted with decay. Great pains 
 should be taken in skinning. Avoid the adherence of flesh or 
 fat to the skin, and guard against cutting through the hide, as a 
 pierced skin is much injured in value. The parts about the 
 eyes, legs and ears should be carefully removed. The various 
 methods of skinning are described in our section on trapping, 
 and in all cases the furs should be allowed to dry in a cool, 
 airy place, free from the rays of the sun or the heat of a fire, 
 and protected from rain. 
 
 Astnngent preparations of various kinds are used by many 
 trappers, but they are by no means necessary. The most 
 common dressing consists of equal parts of rock salt and alum, 
 dissolved in water. Into this a sufficient amount of coarse flour 
 
STRETCHERS. 
 
 273 
 
 or wheat bran is stirred to give the mixture the consistency of 
 batter, after which it is spread thickly over the skin and allowed 
 to dry. 
 
 It is afterwards scraped off, and in some cases a second ap- 
 plication is made. This preparation is much used in dressing 
 beaver, otter, mink and muskrat skins, but as many of our most 
 successful and experienced trappers do without it, we fail to see 
 the advantage of using it, as it is only an extra trouble. The 
 simplest and surest v/ay is to stretch the skin and to submit it 
 to a gradual process of natural drying Avithout any artificial heat 
 or application of astringents to hasten the result. 
 
 A very common mode of stretching skins consists in tacking 
 them to a board, with the fur inwards, and allowing them to dry 
 as already described. 
 
 This method does very well for small skins, but for general 
 purposes the " stretchers " are the only means by which a pelt 
 may be properly cured and prepared. 
 
 STRETCHERS. 
 
 The board stretcher is the simplest form and is in most com- 
 mon use among trappers for the smaller animals. These stretch- 
 ers are of two kinds, the plain and the wedged. The plain 
 stretcher consists of a piece of board a quarter of an inch in 
 thickness, about eighteen inches long and six inches in width. 
 
 One end of this board is rounded off, as seen in our illustration, 
 and the sides should also be whittled and smoothed to a blunt 
 edge. 
 
 The board stretchers are used only for those skins which 
 are taken off whole, that is, as described in the chapter on the 
 otter. The skin should be drawn tightly over the blunt end of 
 the board, and its edges either caught in notches cut in the 
 edjres of the square end or secured by a few tacks. This 
 
2 74 THE trapper's MISCELLANY. 
 
 stretcher is particularly adapted to the skins of muskrats, minks 
 and animals of a like size. They are known in New England 
 as " shingle stretchers," and are much to be recommended on 
 account of their lightness and the ease with which they can be 
 made and carried. 
 
 The wedge stretcher is rather more elaborate than the fore- 
 going, and is said to be an improvement. 
 
 The first requisite is a board of about three-eighths of an inch m 
 
 thickness, tw^o feet or more in length, and three and a half inches 
 at one end tapering to the width of two inches at the other. 
 This end should now be rounded, and the edges of the board 
 whittled off to a blunt edge, as already described in the fore- 
 going, commencing near the centre of the board, and thinning to 
 the edge, and finishing with the notches at the square end. 
 Now, by the aid of a rip-saw, sever the board through the mid- 
 dle lengthwise. 
 
 The wedge, is the next thing to be constructed, and should 
 consist of a piece of wood the thickness of the centre of the 
 board and of the same length, tapering from an inch in width at 
 one end to half an inch at the other. 
 
 To use the stretcher the two boards are inserted into the skin, 
 (the latter with the fur side inward). The wedge is then inserted 
 between the large ends of the boards and driven in sufficiently 
 to stretch the pelt to its full capacity, securing it in the notches 
 by slight cuts in the hide, or by a tack or two at the edge. It 
 should then he hung in a cool, airy place, and the pelt left to 
 " season." 
 
 The bow stretcher is another contrivance very commonly 
 used for small skins like the foregoing. When this is used the pelt 
 should be skinned as described'on page 185, the initial cut com- 
 mencing at the lower jaw and extending down between the fore 
 legs, all the feet being previously cut off. The bow may 
 consist of a switch of any elastic Avood, such as hickory, iron 
 wood, elm or birch. It should be about three or more feet in 
 length, and as large as a man's thumb at the butt end. By bend- 
 ing it in the shape of the letter U it may easily be inserted in 
 
THE HOOP STRETCHER. 275 
 
 the skin, the latter being fastened by catching the lip on each 
 side into a sliver notch cut on each end of the bow, as our illus- 
 tration indicates. 
 
 For large animals, such as the deer, bear, beaver, the hoop 
 stretcher is generally employed. 
 
 THE HOOP STRETCHER. 
 
 This consists of a hoop made from one or more flexible 
 switches tied together so as to form a circle. In order to be 
 adapted to this mode of stretching, the skin should be flat, /. e. 
 taken off as described on page 172, the initial cut extending from 
 the lower jaw to the vent. The size of the hoop required depends 
 upon the dimensions of the skin. Lay the latter upon some flat 
 surface and so gauge the hoop as that it shall surround the pelt 
 on all sides ; after which the latter should be secured or laced 
 to the hoop with twine at the edges. All loose parts should be 
 drawn up, and the skin should everywhere be stretched hke a 
 drum head. When this is accomplished it is the custom with 
 many trappers to apply the 2^reparation described on page 273, 
 particularly where the skin is thick and fatty. But we are 
 rather disposed to discourage the use of any preparation what- 
 ever, in any case, as they are by no means necessary. 
 
 In using the board stretchers the fur should ahvays be on the 
 inside, and when the hoop or bow is used it should be placed in 
 such a position that the air may circulate freely on both sides 
 of the skin, which should not be removed until thoroughly dry. 
 
276 TANNING SKINS. 
 
 TANNING SKINS. 
 
 m case some of our readers might desire to tan fur skins for 
 their own domestic purposes, the subjoined directions will be 
 found to be reliable, and for all ordinary requirements, suf- 
 ficiently adequate. 
 
 For tanning with the hair on, the skin should first be cleaned, 
 every particle of loose fat or fiesh, being removed, and the use- 
 less parts cut away. When this is done, it should be soaked 
 for an hour or two in warm water. The following mixture should 
 then be prepared : Take equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and 
 sulphate of soda, and with them mix water sufficient to produce 
 the consistency of thin batter. 
 
 This preparation should be painted thickly on the flesh side 
 of the skin, after which these sides should be doubled together 
 and the pelt left in an airy place. 
 
 A second mixture should next be prepared. This should 
 consist of two parts sal soda ; three parts borax ; four parts 
 Castile or other hard soap : all to be melted together over a 
 slow fire. At the end of twenty-four hours, after the applica- 
 tion of the first mixture, the second should be applied in a 
 similar manner, and the fur again folded and left for the same 
 length of time. Next, make a mixture equal parts of salt and 
 alum, dissolved in warm water and thickened with coarse flour 
 to the consistency of thin paste. Spread this thickly over the 
 skin and allow it to dry, after which it should be scraped oft 
 with the bowl of a spoon. The skin should be tightly stretched 
 during the operation, in order to prevent too great shrinkage. 
 A single application of the last-named dressing, is generally 
 sufficient for small skins ; but a second or third treatment may 
 be resorted to if required, to make the skin soft and pliable, 
 after which it should be finished off with sand-paper and pumice 
 stone. A skin may be thus dressed as soft as velvet, and the 
 alum and salt will set the hair securely. 
 
 The above directions are excellent, for all general purposes, 
 but we subjoin, in addition, a few other valuable hints and spe- 
 cific recipes in common use. Every trapper has his own pecu- 
 liar hobby in regard to his tanning process, and the recipes are 
 various and extensive. The above is one of the most reliable 
 for general use. A common mode of tanning mink and musk- 
 rat skins is given in the following : — 
 
 TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS. 
 
 Before tanning, the skin should always be thoroughly cleansed 
 
TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS. 277 
 
 in warm water, and all fat and superfluous flesh removed. It 
 should then be immersed in a solution made of the following 
 ingredients : Plve gallons of cold soft water ; five quarts wheat 
 bran ; one gill of salt ; and one ounce of sulphuric acid. Allow 
 the skins to soak in the liquid for four or five hours. If the 
 hides have been previously salted, the salt should be excluded 
 from the mixed solution. The skins are now ready for the 
 tanning hquor, which is made in the following way : into five 
 gallons of warm, soft water, stir one peck of wheat bran, and 
 allow the mixture to stand in a warm room until fermentation 
 takes place. Then add three pints of salt, and stir until it is 
 thoroughly dissolved. A pint of sulphuric acid should then be 
 poured in gradually, after which the liquor is ready. Immerse 
 the skins and allow them to soak for three or four hours. The 
 process of '' fleshing " is then to be resorted to. This consists 
 in laying the skin, fur side down, over some smooth beam, and 
 working over the flesh side with a blunt fleshing tool. An old 
 chopping knife, or tin candlestick, forms an excellent substitute 
 for the ordinary fleshing knife, and the process of rubbing should 
 be continued until the skin becomes dry, after which it will be 
 found to be soft and pliable. The skin of the muskrat is 
 quite tender, and the fleshing should be carefully performed. 
 
 HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND 
 MARTEN. 
 
 These should be stretched on a board and smeared with a 
 mixture composed of three ounces each, of salt and alum ; 
 three gills of water, and one drachm of sulphuric acid. This 
 should be thickened with wheat bran or flour, and should be al- 
 lowed to dry on the skin, after which it should be scraped off 
 with a spoon. Next, take the skin from the board, roll it with 
 the fur inside, and draw it quickly backward and forward, over 
 a smooth peg, or through an iron ring. The skin should then 
 be unfolded and rolled ag^in the opposite way, and the opera- 
 tion repeated until the pelt is quite soft and flexible. This is a 
 good way of softening all kinds of skins, and the above prepara- 
 tion will be found excellent for all ordinary purposes. The 
 muskrat skin may be treated in the same manner as the above, 
 if desired, and the process directed on the muskrat skin 
 may also be applied to the pelts of the other animals. 
 
 To remove the fur for a simple tanned skin, the hide should 
 be immersed in a liquid composed of — soft water, five gallons ; 
 slaked lime, four quarts ; and wood ashes, four quarts. Allow 
 
 19 
 
278 OBSERVATIONS ON 
 
 the skin to soak for a couple of days, after which the fur will 
 readily slip off. 
 
 Another method — Take equal parts wood ashes and slaked 
 lime, and add water to the consistency of batter. Spread this 
 over the inside of the skin, roll it up, and place it in a pail, 
 covering it with water. Here let it remain from one to five 
 days, or until the hair will shed easily, after which it should 
 be finished with the fleshing knife and velveted with sand paper. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR 
 
 TRADE. 
 
 In all cold climates, man has availed himself liberally of the 
 warm covering with which nature has clothed the animals around 
 him ; but the wealth of the most favored nations has drawn to 
 them the most beautiful furs, in whatever part of the world they 
 are procured. Skins of animals were among the first materials 
 used for clothing. Before Adam and Eve were driven from 
 the Garden of Eden, they were furnished with coats of skins. 
 The ancient Assyrians used the soft skins of animals to cover 
 the couches or the ground in their tents, and the Israelites em- 
 ployed badger's skins and ram's skins, as ornamental hangings 
 for the Tabernacle. The ancient heroes of the Greeks and 
 Romans, are represented as being clothed in skins, ^neas, 
 wearing for an outer garment, that of the lion, and Alcestes 
 being formidably clad in that of the Libyan Bear. Herodotus 
 speaks of those living near the Caspian Sea wearing seal 
 skins, and Caesar mentions that the skin of the reindeer formed 
 in part the clothing of the Germans. In the early period, furs 
 appear to have constituted the entire riches of the Northern 
 countries, and they were almost the only exports. Taxes were 
 paid on them, and they were the medium of exchange. So it 
 was also in our own Western territories in the latter part of the 
 last century, and is to the present day, to a great extent, among 
 the Indians. In the eleventh century, furs had become fashion- 
 able throughout Europe, and the art of dyeing them, was prac- 
 ticed in the twelfth. In the history of the Crusades, frequent 
 mention is made of the magnificent displays by the European 
 Princes, of their dresses of costly furs, before the Court at 
 Constantinople. But Richard I. of England, and Philip II. of 
 France, in order to check the growing extravagance in their 
 use, resolved that the choicer furs, ermine and sable amongst 
 the number, should be omitted from their kingly wardrobes. 
 Louis. IX. followed their example in the next century, but not 
 
FURS AND THE FUR TRADE. 279 
 
 until his extravagance had grown to such a pitcli, that seven 
 Jmndred and forty-six ermines were required for the lining of 
 one of his snrcoats. In these times, the use of the choicer 
 furs, as those of the sable, ermine, gris, and Hungarian squir- 
 rel, was restricted to the royal families and the nobility, to 
 whom they served as distinctive marks and badges of rank. 
 These privileged persons applied them lavishly to their own 
 use, and the "fashion extended to the princes of other less 
 civilized nations. Their royal use soon extended to Tartary, 
 and the tents of the Khan were bedecked with the most rich and 
 costly furs. In the following century, furs were commonly worn in 
 England until their use was prohibited^ by Edward 1 1 1., to all per- 
 sons whose purse would not warrant a yearly expenditure of ^100. 
 
 The early fur trade of Western Europe, was conducted 
 through the merchants on the south coast of the Baltic, who 
 received goods from the ports of Livonia. In the sixteenth 
 century, a direct trade was opened between the English and 
 Russians ; and a company of the former, protected by the Czar, 
 established trading posts on the White Sea, and a warehouse 
 at Moscow, whence they sent trading parties to Persia and the 
 countries on the Caspian Sea. The Czar sent rich presents of 
 beautiful furs, to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth ; but the 
 latter prohibited the wearing of any but native furs, and the 
 trade soon declined and was abandoned. In the 17th century, 
 Siberia was conquered by the Russians, and its tribute was 
 paid in furs. Large quantities were also furnished to China, 
 but the choicest kinds — the precious ermine, the brilliant, fiery 
 foxes, and the best sables, were taken to Moscow, for the use 
 of the princes and nobles of Russia, Turkey, and Persia. 
 
 In our own country, the early settlers of the Northern prov- 
 inces, soon learned the value of the furs of the numerous ani- 
 mals which peopled the extensive rivers, lakes, and forests of 
 these vast territories. They collected the skins in abundance, 
 and found an increasing demand for them, with every new arri- 
 val of immigrants from the mother country. Trinkets, liquors, 
 and other articles sought for by the native' tribes, were shipped 
 to Quebec, and from thence up the St. Lawrence to Montreal, 
 which soon became the great trading post of the country. The 
 various tribes of Indians were stimulated by trifling compensa- 
 tion, to pursue their only congenial and peaceful occupation ; and 
 the French settlers, readily assimilating to the Indian habits, 
 became themselves expert hunters, trappers, and explorers. 
 
 The business prospered, and the English soon became in- 
 terested and secured a share of the valuable trade. Many 
 
28o OBSERVATIONS ON 
 
 wealthy and influential parties, connected with the government 
 of Great Britain, — Prince Rupert and Lord Ashley, among the 
 number — became deeply interested in this source of revenue ; 
 and after a successful enterprise, they obtained from Charles 
 II., a charter of incorporation, giving to them full posses- 
 sion of the territory within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, 
 not already granted to other subjects, or possessed by those of 
 any other Christian prince or State. In this charter was in- 
 cluded the monopoly, of all trade in these regions, and thus we 
 see the origin of the Great Hudson's Bay Company, which is 
 to-day, one of the largest organizations of its kind on the 
 globe. The territory they claimed, extended from Hudson's 
 Bay, west to the Pacific, and north to the Arctic Ocean, except- 
 ing that occupied by the French and Russians. They soon 
 formed settlements upon the various rivers which empty into 
 Hudson's Bay, and carried on their operations with immense 
 vigor and success. They met with much opposition and open 
 hostility from the French, and were subjected to vast expenses 
 and losses, but in spite of all, they continued to prosper. Their 
 forts or factories were extended further into the interior of 
 British America, and their power was supreme throughout the 
 country, and in a great measure over the Indians, whom they em- 
 ployed to collect their skins. In the course of time, the French 
 Canadians organized themselves into a united band, under the 
 name of the North West Company, and established their head- 
 quarters at Montreal. Their operations were carried on with 
 great energy and profit, and many factories were built in the 
 western portion of the Province. The company thus soon 
 became a formidable competitor with the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany, and for a period of two years, an actual state of war ex- 
 isted between them. This condition of affairs finally termin- 
 ated in a consolidation of the two organizations, under the 
 name of the Hudson's Bay Company, the privileges of which 
 extended over all the territory formerly occupied by both. 
 
 Thus, we have the history of the famous Hudson's Bay 
 Company, from its origin to its perfect organization. It is a 
 most stupendous concern, and its annual shipment of furs, is 
 something amazing. Their great sales take place in the 
 month of March, in order to be completed before Easter ; 
 and again in September, every year at London, and are at- 
 tended by purchasers from nearly all parts of the world. 
 Leipsic, the famous fur mart of Germany, is also the scene of 
 a great annual fair, for the sale of skins.* 
 
 The importance of the fur trade in this country, led to the 
 
FURS AND THE FUR TRADE. 28 1 
 
 early settlement of the Western territories of the United States ; 
 and many a frontier city, like St. Paul, has been built up by 
 the enterprise of the trapper. Mackinaw and Montreal owe 
 much of their growth to the traffic of the fur trade ; and many 
 a kingly fortune — John Jacob Astor's, for instance — has been 
 founded on peltry. 
 
 Besides the above fur sales in London a moderate portion of 
 those annually collected in the United States are retained for 
 use, amounting to about 150,000 mink and 750,000 muskrat 
 skins, besides a number of other furs which are manufactured 
 and worn. 
 
 The annual yield of raw furs throughout the whole world is 
 estimated at over twenty millions of dollars in value ; and when 
 we include the manufactured articles therefrom, the amount will 
 swell to a hundred milHons or over. This will serve to give 
 some idea of the immensity and value of the business. 
 
 American dealers divide our native furs into two classes, viz., 
 home and shipping furs ; the former being chiefly utilized in 
 our own country, while the latter are exported to all parts of 
 the world. New York City is the great fur mart and depot for 
 the shipping trade in this country, and the annual value of its 
 exports, in this one branch of trade is enormous. 
 
 The principal shipping furs are the silver, red and cross Fox, 
 Wild Cat, Raccoon, Fisher, Muskrat and Skunk. 
 
 Among the home furs are the Marten. Mink, Opossum, Wolf 
 and Muskrat, the latter being extensively used both here and 
 abroad. 
 
 In the following chapter will be found more detailed notes on 
 the leading American furs, including their various uses and the 
 different countries for which they are the especial staples. 
 
 In order to give the reader some idea of the variety and mag- 
 nitude of the yield of furs from our own country, we annex a 
 table (p. 282) showing the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 at London, in the year 1873. 
 
 MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS. 
 
 Below will be found "an authentic table of the comparative 
 values of the various American furs at the present date of pub- 
 lication. Tiie quotations are those of one of our largest fur 
 dealers, as published in *' The Hat, Cap and Fur Trade 
 - Review,'' the leading journal of the trade in America. Of 
 course these values^re constantly varying— keeping pace with the 
 eccentricities of fashion and the demands of the fur trade ; but 
 
282 OBSERVATIONS ON FURS AND THE FUR TRADE, 
 
 Kinds. 
 
 •1 -^ 
 
 rt 
 
 12; § 
 
 No. cf Sldns. 
 Sept. Sale. 
 
 0' 
 12: 
 
 
 H 
 
 Price according to 
 
 quality. 
 
 Estimated 
 average price 
 per skin. 
 
 Badger 
 
 2,700 
 5.217 
 
 111,993 
 2,843 
 90 
 1,818 
 6,930 
 6,914 
 540 
 7,312 
 2,468 
 
 47,878 
 31,802 
 
 651,498 
 8,571 
 
 2,794 
 
 37,052 
 779 
 
 471 
 
 ***i,*383 
 148 
 
 1,652 
 
 18,955 
 
 12,896 
 
 316,488 
 
 2,681 
 
 98 
 
 "*3,V82 
 
 "*"iS8 
 320 
 
 2,700 
 8,011 
 149,045 
 3,622 
 90 
 2,289 
 
 6,930 
 
 8,297 
 
 688 
 
 7,312 
 
 4,120 
 
 66,833 
 
 44,698 
 
 767,896 
 
 11,252 
 
 98 
 10,029 
 
 1^69 1 
 6,404 
 2,090 
 
 IS. to 7s. 
 5 s. to £8 I OS. 
 4s. 3d. to 38s. 6d. 
 8s. to £3 5s. 
 iSs. to .£4. 
 5s. to £4. 
 2s. 8d. to 28s. lod. 
 4s. 6d. to 17s. 
 £3 los. to £21. 
 2s. to 14s. 9d. 
 9s. 6d. to £1 14s. 
 I OS. to £3 19s. 
 4s. to £1 8s. 6d. 
 3d. to i6d. 
 14s. to £3 i8s. 
 £4 I OS. to £32. 
 3d. to 4d. 
 IS. to 3s. 3d. 
 2s. to 7s. 
 6s. to £2 15s. 
 Ss.toXi IS. 
 
 £ s. d. 
 I 06 
 
 Bear 
 
 5 00 
 I 00 00 
 
 Beaver 
 
 Fisher 
 
 2 10 00 
 
 Fox, Blue. 
 
 " Cross 
 
 « Kitt 
 
 *' Red 
 
 " Silver 
 
 " White 
 
 Lynx 
 
 2 10 00 
 I 10 00 
 
 3 00 
 
 10 00 
 
 10 00 00 
 
 7 00 
 18 00 
 
 Marten 
 
 I 10 00 
 
 Mink.. 
 
 i^ 00 
 
 00 8 
 
 2 10 00 
 
 Muskrat 
 
 Otter 
 
 " Sea 
 
 15 00 00 
 
 00 3 
 
 2 6 
 
 Rabbit 
 
 10,029 
 
 Raccoon 
 
 Skunk 
 
 1,691 
 6,216 
 
 1,77c 
 
 4 00 
 15 00 
 15 00 
 
 Wolf 
 
 Wolverine 
 
 the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values, as be- 
 tween the two extremes of common and scarce furs. The 
 fur market is a great deal like the stock market. It is constant- 
 ly fluctuating, and a fur which is to-day among the novelties, 
 may next year find itself on the low priced list. The demand 
 for furs of any kind is nearly always governed by fashion, and 
 of course the value is estimated on the demand. If the con- 
 vention of fur dealers should decide to usher in Mtiskrat fur 
 as the leading and most fashionable article in that line, the 
 fashion would create the demand, the demand would be in turr 
 supplied by the trappers throughout the country, and in pro- 
 portion as the Muskrat skins became scarce, so their value 
 would increase. In this way a skin which may be worth fifty 
 cents at one time may soon acquire a value of twenty times that 
 amount. The comparative value of skins is, therefore, constant- 
 ly varying more or less ; but the annexed table (page 283) will be 
 found useful for general reference, and for approximate 
 
AMERICAN FUR SKINS. 283 
 
 AMERICAN FUR SKINS — TABLE OP VALUES.* 
 
 Badger 
 
 Bear, Black 
 
 " Cub 
 
 " Brown 
 
 Beaver, California per lb. 
 
 *' Southern 
 
 " Upper Missouri 
 
 " Lake Supr. and Canada 
 
 Cat, Wild 
 
 " House 
 
 Deer, Florida per lb 
 
 " Missouri 
 
 Elk and Moose per lb, 
 
 j^isher, Southern 
 
 " Eastern and Canada 
 
 Fox, Silver 
 
 " Cross 
 
 " Blue 
 
 " White 
 
 " Red 
 
 ♦' Gray 
 
 " Kitt 
 
 Lynx, Minnesota 
 
 " Canada 
 
 Marten, Dark 
 
 " Small Pale 
 
 Mink, Southern. 
 
 •' Western 
 
 " Middle States 
 
 " Minnesota 
 
 " New England 
 
 " Quebec and Halifax 
 
 Muskrat, Southern 
 
 " Western 
 
 " Northern 
 
 *' Eastern 
 
 Opossum, Ohio 
 
 " Southern 
 
 Otter, Southern 
 
 " Northern 
 
 Rabbit 
 
 Raccoon, Southern 
 
 " Western 
 
 " Michigan 
 
 Seal, Hair 
 
 " Fur 
 
 Skunk, Black Cased 
 
 " Half Stripe 
 
 " White 
 
 Wolf, Timber 
 
 " Prairie 
 
 Wolverine 
 
 Prime. 
 
 18.00 
 
 10 00 
 
 7.00 
 
 1.25 
 
 1. 00 
 
 1-75 
 
 2.50 
 
 40 
 
 15 
 20 
 20 
 
 35 
 7.00 
 10.00 
 ICO. 00 
 3.00 
 15.00 
 3.00 
 
 1-75 
 3-0O 
 
 50 
 2.50 
 4.00 
 10.00 
 2.00 
 1. 00 
 1.25 
 2.00 
 2.50 
 
 3-50 
 
 4.00 
 28 
 30 
 32 
 35 
 30 
 20 
 
 5.00 
 
 10.00 
 
 3 
 
 50 
 
 1.00 
 
 1-25 
 
 60 
 
 Seconds . 
 
 $0.50 
 9.00 
 5.00 
 4.00 
 
 75 
 
 75 
 
 1.5c 
 
 1-75 
 
 25 
 5.00 
 8.00 
 25.00 
 1.50 
 5.00 
 1.50 
 1,00 
 1.50 
 
 25 
 1,00 
 
 2-00 
 6.00 
 1. 00 
 
 50 
 1. 00 
 1.25 
 1.50 
 
 1-75 
 2.00 
 
 25 
 28 
 30 
 30 
 
 3.00 
 6.00 
 
 60 
 50 
 10 
 
 I-50 
 75 
 
 2.00 
 
 Thirds. 
 
 ;po.io 
 1. 00 
 1. 00 
 1.00 
 
 50 
 40 
 
 50 
 75 
 
 1. 00 
 2.00 
 
 I.OD 
 
 2.00 
 50 
 25 
 50 
 50 
 
 75 
 1. 00 
 1.00 
 
 15 
 
 18 
 20 
 
 2.00 
 2.00 
 
 Fourths. 
 
 * From the " Hat, Cap and Fur Trade Review." 
 
284 MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS. 
 
 figures, will j^robably answer every jDurposc for some time to 
 come. 
 
 i Notwithstanding all these advertised prices, the young trap- 
 per often experiences great difficulty in a profitable disposal of 
 his furs. Like every other business, the fur trade runs in its 
 regular grooves, and the average furrier will often pay an ex- 
 perienced professional five dollars for a skin for which he would 
 not offer a dollar to an amateur. This certainly seems discour- 
 aging, but the knowledge of the fact is calculated to prevent 
 greater discouragement. 
 
 We often see fancy prices advertised by fur dealers for first- 
 class skins ; but when the furs are sent, only a few are selected 
 as "- prime ^^"^ the rest being rejected as worthless, or perhaps 
 meeting with a meagre offer far below the regular rates. In 
 this way the dealers have the opportunity of choice selection 
 without incurring any risk. Many a young trapper has been 
 thus disappointed, and has seen his small anticipated fortune 
 dwindle down to very small proportions. 
 
 The fur trade is suppHed through regular professional chan- 
 nels ; and in giving our advice to the novice, we would recom- 
 mend as the most satisfactory and profitable plan that he should 
 make his sales to some local hunter or trapper, who has had ex- 
 perience with the fur trade, and who is satisfied to pay a fair 
 price for the various skins with the probability of selling at an 
 advance, and thus realizing a profit. 
 
 In nearly every trapping locality such men are to be found, 
 and although the prices earned may be below the market rates, 
 the amateur takes none of the speculative risks of the business, 
 and should be willing to take lower prices on this account. 
 
 AMERICAN FUR SKINS — THEIR USES AT HOME AND ABROAD. 
 
 In the early history of fur apparel, its use was determined by 
 clmiate; to-day, and especially in this country, it is regulated by 
 the caprice of fashion. The mink for many years took the 
 lead in the list of fashionable furs, but has of late been super- 
 seded by the introduction of the fur seal. The most choice and 
 costly of our American furs at the present day is the Silver Fox. 
 When highly dressed they are worth from 10 to 50 guineas each 
 in the European market. They are principally bought by the 
 Russians and Chinese. 
 
 The skins of the Red Fox are purchased by the Chinese, 
 Greeks, Persians, and other Oriental nations. They are made 
 into linings for robes, etc., and ornamented with the black fur 
 of the paws which is set on in spots or waves. The fur of tbe 
 
AMERICAN FUR SKINS — ^THEIR USES, ETC. 285 
 
 Beaver was formerly highly prized in the manufacture of hats, 
 and yielded a large portion of the profits of the Fur Companies, 
 constituting the largest item in value among furs. Cheaper 
 materials have since been substituted in making hats, and the 
 demand for this purpose has been greatly reduced. By a new 
 process the skin is now prepared as a handsome fur for col- 
 lars and gauntlets, and its fine silky wool has been successfully 
 woven. The Isoft, white fur from the belly of the animal, is 
 largely used in France for bonnets. 
 
 Raccoon skins are the great staple for Russia and Germany, 
 where, on account of their durability and cheapness, they are 
 in demand for linings for coats, etc. Among the Bearskins, 
 those of the black and grizzly are extensively used for miUtary 
 caps, housings, holsters, sleigh robes, etc. 
 
 The fur of the Lynx is soft, warm and light, and is commonly 
 dyed of a beautiful shining black. It is used for the facings and 
 linings of cloaks, chiefly in America. 
 
 The Fisher yields a dark and full fur which is largely used in 
 fashionable winter apparel. 
 
 The skin of the Marten, is richly dyed and utilized in choice 
 furs and trimmings. 
 
 The Mink, like the two foregoing, belongs to the same genus 
 as the Russian Sable, and its fur so much resembles the latter 
 as to be sometimes mistaken for it. It is one of fashion's 
 furs, and the hair of the tail is sometimes used in the manu- 
 facture of artist's pencils. 
 
 The Muskrat produces the fur most worn by the masses, and 
 is largely exported into Germany, France and England. It is 
 estimated that over six millions of muskrat skins are annually 
 taken in America, and of that number one-half are used in Ger- 
 many alone. 
 
 The skin of the Otter is at present classed among the lead- 
 ing fashionable furs in this country. They are dyed of a deep 
 purplish black color, and are made into sacques, muffs, etc. It 
 is also used by the Russians, Greeks and Chinese. It is mostly 
 an American product, but is also procured to some extent in 
 the British Isles from a smaller variety of the species. 
 
 The skins of the Wolf are chiefly used for sleigh robes and 
 such purposes. The fur of the Rabbit is mainly employed in 
 the manufacture of felt, and is also utilized for lining and trim- 
 ming. The business of breeding rabbits for their fur has been 
 introduced into the United States, and large numbers have been 
 successfully raised in Danbury, Conn., for felting purposes con* 
 nected with the manufacture of hats. 
 
586 
 
 AMERICAN FUR SKINS THEIR USES, ETC. 
 
 The fur of theWoIverinc or Glutton, finds a market for the most 
 part in Germany, where it is used for trimmings and cloak linings. 
 
 The Skunk furnishes the fur known as Alaska Sable, which 
 forms one of our staple pelts, many thousands being annually 
 exported to Poland and the adjacent provinces. 
 
 The Badger yields a valuable and fashionable fur, which is 
 also extensively used in the manufacture of artist's brushes ; 
 a good " badger blender " forming a valuable 'accessory to a 
 painter's outfit. Shaving brushes by the thousand are annually 
 made from the variegated hair of the badger. 
 
 The Opossum yields a fur in very common use among the 
 masses, and the skins of the domestic Cat are utiHzed to a con- 
 siderable extent in the manufacture of robes, mats, etc. The 
 fur of the Puma and Wild Cat are also employed in this form, 
 and may often be seen handsomely mounted and hanging on the 
 backs of sleighs on our fashionable thoroughfares. Among the 
 small game the skins of Squirrels are used for linings, and the 
 soft, velvety fur of the Mole is manufactured into light robes, 
 and very fine hats, and in theatrical paraphernalia is sometimes 
 employed for artificial eyebrows. 
 
 Fu-1 descriptions of the color of the various furs will be found 
 ia our lengthy illustrated chapter on our American animals. 
 
Adirondack experiences with mosquitoes, 
 
 256. 
 Advice to the Novice on the sale of Furs, 
 
 283. 
 Air-tight Jar, for butter, &c., 236. 
 Alaska Sable, 286. — See also Skunk. 
 Alcohol, its use and abuse, 257. 
 Alum— used in waterproofing, 249. 
 "Amateur Trapping," 225. 
 Amber, Oil of, used in the art of Trap- 
 ping, J 52. 
 American Fur Skins. — Table of values, 
 
 284. 
 
 Their uses at Home and Abroad, 284. 
 American Lion. — See Puma. 
 Amputation, self inflicted, as a means of 
 
 escape with captured animals, 144. 
 
 To prevent, 144, 145. 
 Ancient uses of Furs, 278. 
 Anise, On. OF. — 
 
 Its use in the art of trapping, 152. 
 
 As bait for fish, 240. 
 Annual yield of Furs throughout the world, 
 
 281. 
 Apparatus for stretching skins, 273. 
 Arrows, poisoned, 26. 
 Arrow Traps, 23, 25. 
 Artificial Eyebrows of Mole Fur, 286. 
 Art of Trapping, 148. 
 assafcetida. — 
 
 Its use by the Trapper, 151. 
 
 As scent bait for fish, 240. 
 AsTOR, John Jacob, and the Fur Trade, 
 
 281. 
 Astringent Preparations, use of, in drying 
 Skins, 273, 276. 
 
 B 
 
 Badger, the. — 
 
 Nature and habits of, 175. 
 
 Skinning the, 177. 
 
 Trapping the, 175. 
 
 Uses of Fur, 286. 
 
 Value of Fur, 284. 
 Bags, Waterproof, for food, 236W 
 Baiting the Steel Trap, 143. 
 Baits for fishing, 240. 
 Baits, scent, 149. 
 Bait, Trapping without, 148. 
 Bark Shanty. — 
 
 Hints on, 266. 
 
 Details of construction, 245. 
 Bark-Stone. — See Castoreum. 
 Bark-Stone composition.— See Castoreum, 
 " Barque." — See Birch Bark Canoe. 
 Barrel Hoops used in canoe building, 264. 
 Barrel Traps, 125, 127, 133. 
 Basket for the shoulders, 234, 236. 
 Basswood-bark canoes, 264. 
 Bateaux, 264. 
 Bat Fowling Net, 70. 
 Baking, recipe for, 253. 
 Bay Lynx.— See Wild Cat. 
 Beans as food, 235. 
 Bear. — 
 
 Nature and habits of, 168, 227. 
 
 'I'rapping the, 168. 
 
 Traps for, 17, 29, 143. 
 
 Various species of, 168. 
 
 Directions for removing skin, 172. 
 
 Use of skin, 285. 
 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 " Bear Tamer," 137, 142. 
 " Bear Chasing," dangers of the sport, 170. 
 
290 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Bear Grease, 171. 
 Bear Meat, to roast, 233. 
 
 *' " to dry, 237. 
 Beaver.— 
 
 Nature and habits of, 1 77, 
 
 Trapping the, 177. 
 
 Skinning the, 182. 
 
 Skin, to tan, 277. 
 
 Use of fur, 285. 
 
 Vahie of skin, 284. 
 Beds and Bedding, 248. 
 Bed, spring, 248. 
 
 " hammock, swinging, 249. 
 Bed clothes, 249. 
 Big Horn, the, 220. 
 
 As food, 220, 238' 
 
 Nature and habits of, 220. 
 
 Trapping the, 220. 
 Birch Bark Canoe, remarks on, 226. 
 
 Directions for making, 261. 
 Bird-Catching Net, 70. 
 Bird Lime, 97. 
 
 Masticated Wheat used as, 99. 
 
 Recipe for making, 98. 
 
 Used in capture cf Puma, 35. 
 
 Used for capture cf Hummuig Bird, 
 99. 
 
 Used in making Fly-paper, 136. 
 
 Used with an Owl as decoy, 98. 
 
 With paper cone, as a Crow trap, 96. 
 Bird Traps, 65. 
 
 " Box, 88, 90, gi. 
 Bird Whistle, 72. 
 Bison.— See Buffalo. 
 Black Fly. — See " Punkey." 
 Blanket, woollen, 250. 
 
 Rubber, 236. 
 
 Use of, 250. 
 Block-tin, used for kettles, &c., 235. 
 Blossom, utilized as a trap, 99. 
 Blow-gun, used in the capture cf Ilum- 
 
 ing Bird, 99. 
 Board Flap, the, 130. 
 Board Stretchers, 273. 
 Boats, remarks on, 226. 
 
 Manufacture of, 259. 
 
 The dug-out, or log canoe, 259. 
 
 The birch-bark canoe, 261. 
 
 The bateau, 264. 
 
 The scow, 267. 
 
 The flat-bottomed boat, 267. 
 Boiled Mush, 232. 
 
 " to fry, 232. 
 
 Boiling water used in bending wood, 268, 
 
 272. 
 Book I. Traps for Large Game, 17. 
 IL Snares or Noose Traps, 39. 
 
 in. Traps for Feathered Game, 
 65. 
 
 IV. Miscellaneous Traps, 103. 
 V. Household Traps, 125. 
 VI. Steel Traps and THE Art OF 
 Trapping, 137. 
 
 VII. The Campaign, 225, 
 VIII. The Trapper's Miscellany, 
 255. 
 Boots, hints on, 228. 
 
 Grease for, 228* 
 Bottle Lantern, 241. 
 
 " Match Safe, 234. 
 Bow Stretcher, for skins, 274. 
 Bow Traps, 23, 25, 116. 
 Bowl Traps, 135, 136. 
 Box Bird Traps, 55, 88, 90, 91. 
 Box Dead Fall, 128. 
 Box Hut, used in Pickerel fishing, 241. 
 Box Owl Trap, 88. 
 Box Pit-fall, 131. 
 Box Snares, 55, 56. 
 Box Trap, the, 103 
 
 Two modes of setting, 105. 
 Box Traps, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 
 
 109, no. 
 Box Trap, pendent, 91. 
 15randy on a trapping campaign, 257 
 Brass wire nooses, 41. 
 Brick Trap, 66. 
 Broiling, recipes for, 233. 
 Brook Trout, fishing through the ice, 240. 
 
 " To cook deliciously, 232. 
 Bruises, ointment for, 255. 
 Buckskin gloves, in handling trails, 149. 
 Building the camp fire, 233. 
 Buffalo, the, 220. 
 
 As food, 221, 238. 
 
 How hunted and trapped, 221. 
 Building boats, 259. 
 Butternut log, for canoe, 239. 
 Butter, to keep on a campaign,. 236. 
 
 C 
 
 Cage traps for birds, 76. 
 " " mice, 134. 
 
 Call Birds, how used, 72. 
 Campaign Life in the Wilderness, 
 
 225. 
 Campaign, Plan of, 225. 
 Camp fire, 228. 
 
 To build, 233. 
 Camp Kettle, 235. 
 
 " Knife, 235- 
 
 " Stove, 228, 235. 
 Canada Grouse, 238. 
 
 " Lynx. — See Lynx. 
 
 " Moose. — See Moose. 
 Candles, in camp, 227. 
 
 ** Novel way of using, 2 18. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 291 
 
 Canned vegetables, 236. 
 Canoes, remarks on, 226. 
 " Basswood-bark, 264. 
 ** Birch-bark, directions for building, 
 
 261. 
 " Hemlock bark, 264. 
 " Log. — Sec Dug-out. 
 " Spruce bark, 264. 
 Canton flannel bags, for bed clothes, 249. 
 Canvass-back Duck, as food, 239. 
 Canvas bags, waterproof, 236. 
 Caps, percussion, used in lighting fire, 234. 
 Capture of Animals, 154- 
 Carpeting Tents, 250. 
 Castoreum, or Barkstone, 150. 
 
 How obtained, 150. 
 
 How used. — See Beaver. 
 Castoreum composition, 150. 
 Cat, domestic, use of skin, 286. 
 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 Cat, wild.— See Wild Cat. 
 Caulking boats, 261, 266. 
 Caution in baiting steel traps, 143. 
 Caution in handling steel traps, 149. 
 Chill, remedy for, 257. 
 Chimney-fire in log shanty, 245. 
 Chip as a plate, 232. 
 Chip, for a frying pan, 230, 232. 
 Chloride of Lime, as an antidote, 152. 
 Choosing a trapping ground, 225. 
 Cicely, Sweet, as scent bait in fishing, 240- 
 Cities built up by the fur trade, 281. 
 Clap Net, 72. 
 Clearing tents and shanties from insects, 
 
 230. 
 Climate and fur apparel, 284. 
 Clog, the, 146. 
 Cloth for tent making, 247. 
 
 " Wateri^roof preparation for, 247. 
 Clothing, hints on, 228. 
 Coasting on the Indian sled, 270. 
 Cock of the plains, 238. 
 Coffee, 236. 
 Coffee-pot, 235. 
 Cold, remedy for, 257. 
 Combination camp-knif'^, 235. 
 Common Box Trap, 103. 
 Compass, pocket, 227. 
 Compound scent-bait, 150, 153. 
 Concealing steel traps, 229. 
 Cone of paper as a trap, 96. 
 Corrall, African trap, 34. 
 Cooking Utensils for a Campaign, 
 
 230, 235- 
 Coon. — See Raccoon. 
 Coop Trap, 67. 
 
 *' For large game, 33. 
 Cotton drilling, used for making tents, 247. 
 " Waterproof preparation for, 247. 
 
 " Cotton Tail."— See Rabbit. 
 
 Cougar. — See Puma. 
 
 Cow's udder, as fish bait, 240. 
 
 Crackers as food, 236. 
 
 Crow trap, 96. 
 
 Cummin, used in trapping, 152. 
 
 Cup, portable, 231. 
 
 Curing Skins, 272. 
 
 Current price list of American furs, 284. 
 
 D 
 
 Dark lantem, used by bird catchers, 71. 
 
 Deer hunters, 217. 
 Dead-Falls, 17, 29, 107, iii, 113. 
 " Box, 128. 
 " For large game, 17. 
 " How set for the fox, 113. 
 " Stone, 29. 
 
 ** Weighted haqooon, 26. 
 " With figure four trap, 114. 
 Dead fish, valuable in making trails, 153. 
 Decoys, 72, 76, 94. 
 Decov traps, 72, 76, 94. 
 *' Whistle, 74. 
 " Owl used as, 98, 
 Deer, 214. 
 
 As food, 233, 237, 23S. 
 How to skin the, 219. 
 Hunting at night, 217, 210. 
 Luminosity of eyes at night, 217, 21 S. 
 Natural characteristics of, 214. 
 Salt as bait for, 218. 
 Season for hunting, 218. 
 Trapping the, 214, 215. 
 Various modes of hunting, 217. 
 Various species of, 215. 
 Deer lick, the, 215. 
 Deer meat, to dry, 237. 
 Deer meat, to roast, 233. 
 Delmonico outdone, 232. 
 Detecting the direction of the wind by the 
 
 finger, 217. 
 Devices used in connection with the steel 
 
 trap, 144, 147. 
 Devils' Lantem, 241. 
 Diet of the Trapper, 230. 
 "Double Ender," the, 107. 
 Double traps, 57, 109, 110, 129. 
 Down Fall, the, 26. 
 Dressing for fur skins, 273, 276. 
 Dressing for leather, 228. 
 Dressing skins for market, 272. 
 
 " Home use, 276. 
 Dried fish, 237. 
 Dried venison, 237. 
 Drilling, as tent material, 247. 
 *' Waterproof preparation for, 247. 
 
292 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Drinking cup, portable, 231. 
 Drying skins, 272, 273, 276. 
 Ducks, various species of, 239. 
 
 As food, 239 
 
 To cook deliciously, 233. 
 Duck Traps, 94, 95. 
 " Dug-Out," the, hints on, 226. 
 
 Detailed directions for making, 259. 
 
 Eels, oil prepared from, 151. 
 Elk. — See Moose. 
 " Ephraim." — See Bear. 
 Escaping from the mosquitoes, 255. 
 Exports of furs, 281, 285. 
 Extemporized frying pan, 232. 
 
 "Toaster," 233. 
 Extract of beef, Liebig's, 236. 
 Extravagance in fur apparel, 279. 
 
 False bottom traps, 127, 131, 133. 
 Fashion and fur, 279, 283, 285. 
 Feathered Game, Traps for, 65. 
 Felt, use of rabbit-fur in making, 286. 
 Fennel, Oil of, used in trapping, 152. 
 Fenugreek, Oil of, used in trapping, 
 
 152. 
 Figure Four Snare, 6r. 
 Figure Four Trap, 107. 
 
 " Used with Dead-Fall, 114. 
 Finger, as a weather vane, 217. 
 Fire, to build, 227. 
 " To light without matches, 234. 
 " With powder and cap, 234, 
 " Without " anything," 235. 
 Fire arms, 227. 
 *' Oil for, 227. 
 Fire bottle, 241. 
 
 Fire Hat for night hunting, 218. 
 Fire-proof preparations for tents, 247. 
 Fish, to bake, 232. 
 
 To dry, 237. 
 
 To fry, 233. 
 Fisher Marten. — 
 
 How to trap the animal, 194. 
 
 Its nature and habits, 194. 
 
 Its common mode of release from cap- 
 ture, 144. 
 
 Method of skinning, 195. 
 
 Use of skin, 285. 
 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 Fish-hook, trap for ducks, 95. 
 Fishing, hints on, 239. 
 
 At night, 239. 
 
 Through the ice, 240. 
 
 Various baits, 240. 
 
 With tip-ups 240. 
 
 For pickerel, 240. 
 Fishing tackle, 227, 240, 241. 
 Fish lantern, 241. 
 Fish Oil, used in the art of trapping, 151. 
 
 How obtained, 151. 
 Fish, scent baits for, 240. 
 
 Spearing, 239. 
 Fish traps, 120, 241. 
 Flat bottomed boats, 264, 267. 
 Flat bottomed sled. — See Toboggan 
 Flat stone, as a frying pan, 232. 
 Flower, converted into a trap, 99. 
 Fly, black. — See " Punkey." 
 Fly-paper, to make, 136. 
 Fly Tent, the, 246. 
 Fly traps, 136. 
 Food, portable, 230. 
 Food and Cooking Utensils, 230. 
 " Fools' Cap" Trap for Crows, 96. 
 Forks, 235- 
 
 Fortunes founded on peltrj-, 281. 
 Fowling Net, the, 70. 
 Fox.— 
 
 Nature and habits of, 154. 
 
 Trapping the, 154. 
 
 Trapped by a dead-fall, iii, 113 
 
 Varieties of, 154. 
 
 Directions for skinning, 158. — See 
 also Red and Silver Fox. 
 " Fox fire," used in capture of deer, 218. 
 Fritters, pork, to cook, 231. 
 Fi-yirgpan, 231, 235. 
 
 " An extemporized, 232. 
 Fur Market, eccentricities of, 283. 
 Furs, ancient uses of, 278. 
 
 Annual yield throughout the world, 
 281. 
 Furs, best season for, 147. 
 
 " Home," 281. 
 
 Sale of, by Hudson's Bay Company 
 28r. 
 
 " Shipping," 281. 
 
 Table of market values, 282. 
 Fur skins, to cure for market, 272. 
 
 To tan, 276. 
 
 Hints on selling for profit, 283. 
 
 Various uses of, 285. 
 Fur Trade, Observations on, 278. 
 
 Immensity of, 281. 
 
 Game, protected from wolves, 237. 
 Garotte Trap, 114. 
 Gloves to be used in trapping, 149. 
 Glutton. — See Wolverine. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 293 
 
 Gnats, 230, 256. 
 
 Painful effects of their bites, 256. 
 
 Remedies for their bites, 255. 
 
 Driven away by the " Smudge," 230. 
 Gnat, black.-^See " Punkey." 
 Goose trap, 75. 
 Gopher. — 
 
 Nature and habits of, 205. 
 
 Trapping the, 205. 
 
 Traps for, 119, 120, 140. 
 
 Directions for skinning, 206. 
 Grappling iron, the, 146. 
 Grease for boots and shoes, 228. 
 *' Great Bear Tamer," the, 142. 
 Grizzly Bear. — 
 
 Nature and habits of, 169. 
 
 Trapping the, 169. 
 
 Traps for, 17, 142. 
 
 Use of fur, 285. 
 Ground plan of trapping lines, 228. 
 Ground, selection for trapping, 225. 
 Ground Snares, 44. 
 Grouse, as food, 233, 238. 
 
 Bait for, 42. 
 
 Oil of, for fire arms, 227. 
 
 Peculiarities of, 42. 
 
 Snares for, 39. 
 
 To cook deliciously, 233. 
 
 Various species of, 238. 
 Gun Trap, 20. 
 
 H 
 
 Hair Nooses, 41. 
 
 Half tent, 246. 
 
 Hammocks, 250. 
 
 Hammock bed, 249, 
 
 Handling steel traps, caution in, 149. 
 
 Hanging bed, 249, 
 
 Hare.— See Rabbit. 
 
 Harpoon Trap of Africa, 26. 
 
 Hat Brim, portable, 258. 
 
 Netting attachment for, 258. 
 Hat lantern for night hunting, 2i8. 
 Hawk snare, 43. 
 Hawk Trap, 93. 
 
 Head lantern used in deer hunting, 218. 
 Head Net, 257. 
 Hedge Nooses, 41. 
 Hemlock bark canoes, 264. 
 Hemlock boughs, as bedding, 250. 
 Hemp, used in caulking boats, 261, 266. 
 "Hiding" steel traps, 229. 
 High top boots, 228. 
 Hints on baiting the steel trap, 143. 
 Hints on selection of trapping ground, 
 
 225. 
 
 Hints on skinning animals, 272. 
 
 Hints on trapping, 148. 
 
 Hints on plans of trapping lines, 228. 
 
 Hints on sale of furs, 283. 
 
 Hippopotamus trap, 26. 
 
 Historical items relating to furs and the 
 
 fur trade, 278. 
 Hoe cake, to cook, 232. 
 Hogs carried off by bears, 170. 
 Hog's liver used as fish bait, 240. 
 " Home Furs," 281. 
 Home-Made Boat, 264. 
 Honey as bait„ 19, 31, 170. 
 Hook trap for ducks, 95. 
 Hopo, African trap, 34. 
 Hoop nooses, 40. 
 Hoop Stretcher for skins, 275. 
 Horse hair nooses, to make, 41. 
 Hot drink for chills, 257. 
 Household Traps, 125. 
 House Tent, 247, 
 How to select a steel trap, 138. 
 How to Trap, 153. 
 Hudson Bay Company, origin of, 280. 
 
 Sales of, 281, 282. 
 Humming bird, killed by concussion, 99, 
 
 " Snare, 99. 
 
 " Trap, 99. 
 
 " Various modes of capture, 99. 
 Hunting the deer, 217. 
 Hunting from trees, 218. 
 Hut, Log.— See Log Shanty. 
 
 Implements required on a trapping cam- 
 
 paign, 227. 
 Improved springle, 60. 
 Indian CANOE.-See Birch bark canoe. 
 Indian meal, as food, 231. 
 Indian Sledge. — See Toboggan. 
 Indian Snow Shoe, 268. 
 India-rubber blanket, 236. 
 
 How used, 250. 
 Insect Ointments, 2(;5. 
 Insect bites, remedies for, 255. 
 
 " Sores resulting from, 257. 
 Insects, to drive out from tent or shanty, 
 
 230, 256. 
 Intemperance, 257. 
 
 Jack knife, a valuable tool, 227. 
 I Jar, as a trap, 135. 
 
294 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Tar, air-tight, foi butter, 236. 
 
 Jerked Venison," 237. 
 John Jacob Astor, and the fur trade, 
 
 2S1. 
 Johnny cake, to cook, 232. 
 
 K 
 
 Kettk, camp, 235. 
 Knapsack, 234. 
 
 Directions for making, 236. 
 Knife, a necessary implement, 227. 
 Knife, the combination camp, 235. 
 Knives, table, 235. 
 
 Lake trout, fishing for, 240. 
 
 To cook deliciousJy, 232. 
 Lantern for the head, used by deer hunt- 
 ers, 218. 
 Lantern used by bird catchers, 71 . 
 Lantern trap for fish, 241. 
 Large game, traps for, 17. 
 Lavender, used in the art of trapping, 
 
 152. 
 Leather preservative, 228. 
 " Le Chat."— See Lynx. 
 Lemonade, 236. 
 Lens, to light fire with, 234. 
 Lever for setting large steel traps, 142. 
 Liebig's extract of beef, 236. 
 Light, the trapper's, 227. 
 Light for the head in night hunting, 2i8. 
 Light home-made boat, 264. 
 Lime, chloride of, as a disinfectant, 152. 
 Liniment for wounds and bruises, 255. 
 
 *' Insect bites, 255. 
 Linseed oil, used as bird lime, 98. 
 Lion, American. — See Puma. 
 List of Prices of American Furs, 284. 
 Liver, as fish bait, 240. 
 Log Cabin.— See Log Shanty. 
 Log Canoe. — See Dug-Out. 
 Log Coop Trap, 33. 
 Log Shanty, hints on, 226, 229. 
 
 Detailed directions for building, 244. 
 
 Site for building, 244, 287. 
 
 To clear of gnats and mosquitoes, 230. 
 Lucifer Matches. — See Matches. 
 " Luxuries," 234. 
 Lynx, the Canadian, 164. 
 
 Natural characteristics of, 164. 
 
 Trapping the, 164. 
 
 Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 33, 35, 141. 
 
 Lynx — 
 
 Directions foi skinning, 166. 
 Use of skin. 28s. 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 
 M 
 
 Mackinaw and the Fur Trade, 281. 
 Mallard Duck as food, 239. 
 " to Cook.— See Duck. 
 Market Value of Fur Skins, 281. 
 Marmot. — See Woodchuck. 
 Marten : — 
 
 Nature and habits of, 192. 
 
 Trapping the, 192. 
 
 Its common mode of escape, 144. 
 
 Directions for removing skin, 194. 
 
 How to tan the Skin, 277. 
 
 Value and use of skin, 284, 285. 
 Mastic Varnish used in water-proofing, 234 
 Matches, 227. 
 
 Bottle used for carrying, 234. 
 
 To render water-proof, 234. 
 Meal, Indian, as food, 231. 
 Meat, to dry, 237. 
 
 '• Medicines," or Scent Baits, 149. 
 Menagerie Whistle, 74. 
 Merganser, the, as food, 239. 
 
 To cook. — See Duck. 
 Midgets, 256. 
 
 Painful effect of their bites, 256. 
 
 Driven away by the " Smudge," 230^ 
 
 Ointments for bites, 255. 
 
 Serious effects of bites on the intem- 
 perate, 257. 
 Mink : — 
 
 Nature and habits of, 189. 
 
 Trapping the, 189. 
 
 Traps for, 43, i4i' 
 
 Its common mode of escape from the 
 steel trap, 144-. 
 
 Directions for skinning, 191. 
 
 To tan skin of, 277. 
 
 Extensive use of skins m America, 
 281. 
 
 Uses of skin, 285. 
 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 Miscellaneous hints on trapping, 148. 
 Miscellany, the Trapper's, 255. 
 Miscellaneous Traps, 103. 
 Mole, 207. 
 
 Beauty of fur, 209, 211. 
 
 Life and habits of, 207. 
 
 Trapping the, 119. 210. 
 
 Traps for, 119, 120, 140. 
 
 Varieties of, 211. 
 
 Directions for skinning.^See Gopher. 
 
 Use of fur, 286. 
 
295 
 
 Montreal and the Fur Trade, 281. 
 Moose : — 
 
 Nature and habits cf, 21c. 
 Trapping the, 220. 
 "Yards," 220. 
 Flesh as food, 220, 223, 238. 
 How to skin the animal, 220. 
 Moose meat, to roast, 233. 
 
 " Meat to dry, 237. 
 Mosquitoes, 230. 
 
 Painful effects of their bites, 257. 
 Ointments for bites, 255. 
 Driven away by the ** Smudge," 230. 
 Adirondack experiences with, 255, 
 
 256. 
 Head-net, 257. 
 
 Serious effects of bites on the intem- 
 perate, 257. 
 Mouse Traps, 124, 130, 1311 i34« i35- 
 Mud Stick or Pusher, 267. 
 Mush, to boil, 232. 
 
 to fry, 232. 
 Musk: — 
 
 Its use in the art of trapping, 151. 
 How obtained, 151. 
 Muskrat:— 
 
 Nature and habits of, 182. 
 
 Pit-fall Trap for, 133. 
 
 Spearing the, 183. 
 
 Trapping the, 182. 
 
 Traps for, 43, 107, no, in, ii4» i33f 
 
 141. 
 Its common mode of release, 144. 
 Extensive use of skins in America, 
 
 281. 
 
 Skin, to remove, 185. 
 
 To tan. 277. 
 
 Use of, 286. 
 
 Value of, 284. 
 
 Muscovy Duck as food, 239. 
 
 To cook. — See Duck. 
 Musquaw. — See Bear. 
 
 N 
 
 Natural Advantages utilized by the Trap- 
 
 per, 149. 
 Natural History. 
 
 Necessity of its study in the art of 
 Trappmp, 148. 
 Neatsfoot Oil for Fire Arms, 227. 
 Net: — 
 " r>at fow'inGT, 70. 
 " Bird catching, 70. 
 '• Clap, 72. 
 " Decoy, 72. 
 " Fish, use of, 241. 
 20 
 
 Net for the head, 257. 
 
 " Fowling, 70. 
 Net traps, 70v73, 75i 80, 83, 85. 
 
 For Tiger, Puma, or Wild Cat, 
 
 35- 
 Spring, 80. 
 The upright, 85. 
 Wild Duck, 94. 
 Wild Goose, 75. 
 Netting attachment for Hat brim, 258. 
 Newhouse Trap, the, 138. 
 Night-hunting, 217, 218. 
 Night-fishing, 239. 
 Nooses : — 
 
 Horse hair, 41, 
 In hedge, 42. 
 On hoops, 40. 
 On string, 40. 
 Noose Traps, 39. 
 Nooses, wire, 41. 
 Northwest Fur Company, 280. 
 Nutting in Mid-winter, 212. 
 
 O 
 
 Oar-locks, simple, 266. 
 Oat-meal as food, 236. 
 Observations ON the History of Furs 
 
 AND THE Fur Trade, 278. 
 Oil, Fish.— 
 
 Used in trapping, 151. 
 
 How obtained, 151. 
 Oil of Amber. — 
 
 Used in the art of trapping, 152. 
 Oil of Ambergris. — 
 
 Used in the art of trapping, 152. 
 Oil of Anise : — 
 
 Its use in the art of trapping, 152. 
 Oil of Cinnamon : — 
 
 Its use in the art of trapping, 152. 
 Oil of Fennel :— 
 
 Its use in the art of trapping, 152. 
 Oil cf Fenugreek : — 
 
 Its use in the art of trapping, 152. 
 Oil of Lavender :— 
 
 Its use in the art of trapping, 152. 
 Oil of Rhodium : — 
 
 Its use by trappers, 151. 
 Oil of Skunk :— 
 
 Its use by trappers, 151, 
 Oil :— 
 
 For fire arms, 227. 
 
 For light, 227. > 
 
 Oil of Partridge : — 
 
 Its use, 227. 
 Oil of Pennyroyal : — 
 
 For insect bites, 255. 
 
296 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Ointment for Bruises and Wounds, 255. 
 Ointment for Insect Bites, 255. 
 Old-fashioned Springle, 58. 
 Olive Oil in cooking, 236. 
 Opossum, 201. 
 
 Nature and habits of, 202 
 
 Trapping the, 201. 
 
 Hunting the, 202. 
 
 Directions for skinning, j 
 
 Uses of skin, 286. 
 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 Otter :— 
 
 Nature and habits cf, 
 
 Trapping the, 186. 
 
 Directions for skinning, 189. 
 
 How to tan the skin, 277. 
 
 Use cf skin, 286. 
 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 Owl Trap, 88. 
 Owl :— 
 
 Used in connection with bird lime as 
 decoy, 98. 
 
 Paint as a water-proof covering, 236. 
 Painter, the. — See Puma. 
 Panther, the. — See Puma. I 
 
 Paper Cone used as a trap, 96. 
 Partridge, 42, 238. 
 
 As food, 238. 
 
 Fat for lire arms, 227. 
 
 Snares, 30, etc. 
 
 To cook deliciously, 233. 
 Pekry :— 
 
 Fortunes founded on, 281. 
 
 Cities built un on, 281. 
 Pendent Box, Bird Trap, 91. 
 Pennyroval for insect bites, 255. 
 Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257. 
 Percussion Cap used in lighting fire, 234. 
 Peshoo, the. — See Lynx. 
 Phosphorescent wood used in night-hunt- 
 ing, 218. 
 Phosphorus lantern for catching fish, 241. 
 Pickerel fishing, 240. 
 " Soearing, 241. 
 " Trap for, 121. 
 " To cook, 233. 
 Pigeon Net-tran, 72. 
 Pigs carried off by Bears, 17:). 
 Pine Log Canoe. — S*"e Dug-out. 
 Pinnated Grouse, 238. 
 Pitch for stopping leaks, 261, 264, 266. 
 Pit-fall Traps. — 
 
 For large game, 31. 
 
 For small game, 125, 127, 131. 
 
 Barrel, 127. 
 
 Box, 131. 
 
 For Muskrat, 133. 
 
 Plan of Trapping Campaign, 225. 
 Plates, substitutes f9r, 232, 235. 
 Platform snare, 61. 
 Poachers, or trap robbers, 229. 
 Poacher's Snare, 48. 
 Pocket compass, 227. 
 Pocket Hat Brim, 258. 
 
 " Sun-glass, 234. 
 Poisoned arrows, 26. 
 Poisoning, 222. 
 Pop-corn as bait for Quail, 54. 
 Portable boats, 259. 
 
 Portable food & cooking utensils, 230, 235. 
 Portable drinking cup, 231. 
 
 Hat brim, 258. 
 " With netting attached, 2 58. 
 
 Snares, 50, 52. 
 
 Stove, 228, 235. 
 Pork as food, 231. 
 " Fritters, 251. 
 " " To make, 232. 
 " Possum." — See Opossum. 
 Potatoes as food, 235. 
 Pouched Rat.— See Gopher. 
 Powder used in lighting fire, 234. 
 Prairie Hen, 238. 
 Prairie Whistle, 74 
 
 Precautions in handling steel traps, 156. 
 Preface, 3. 
 
 Preparation of skins for market, 272. 
 Preserve jar used as trap, 135. 
 Price Current of American Furs, 284. 
 Prime fur, best season for, 147. 
 Prof. Blot outdone in cooking, 232. 
 Profit in selling furs, 233. 
 Pronghorn Antelope, 221. 
 
 Nature and habits of, 221. 
 
 How hunted and trapperl, 221, 238- 
 Provisions, to protect from Wolves, 237. 
 Ptarmigan, to cook, 233. 
 
 Trap for, 75, 
 
 How hunted and trapi>ed, 239. 
 
 Various species of, 230. 
 Puma : — 
 
 Bait for, 20, 3i».32, 163. 
 
 Nature and habits of, 161. 
 
 Peculiarities of, 20. 
 
 Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 3'> 33) M^* 
 
 Trapping the, 16 r. 
 
 Directions for skinning, 164- 
 
 Use of skin, 286. 
 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 Pumice Stone, used in finishing skins, 276- 
 
 " PUNKEV." — 
 
 Description of the Insect, 256. 
 Severity of bites, 256. 
 Ointment for bites, 255. 
 Serious effects of bites on the intem- 
 perate, 257. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 297 
 
 Punk Tinder, used in lighting fire, 234. 
 " Pusher." — See Mud stick. 
 Putty, for stopping leaks, 261. 
 
 Q 
 
 Quail, bait for, 40, 54. 
 " Snares, 39, 40, 41, etc. 
 To cook deliciously, 233. 
 Quotations of the Fur Market, 284. 
 
 R 
 
 Rabbit: — 
 
 As food, 238. 
 
 Bait for, 203. 
 
 How to skin, 204. 
 
 Nature and habits of, 203. 
 
 Salt as bait for, 109. 
 
 Traps for, 43, 64, 103. 
 
 Use of fur, 286. 
 
 Value of fur, 284. 
 
 Varieties cf, 203. 
 Raccoon :— 
 
 As a pet, 173. 
 
 Nature and habits cf, 172. 
 
 Trapping the, 172. 
 
 Traps for, no, 116, 141. 
 
 Hunting the, 172. 
 
 Directions for skinning^, 175. 
 
 How to tan the skin, 277. 
 
 Use of the fur, 285. 
 
 Value of the fur, 284. 
 Rat :— 
 
 Snares for, 43. 
 
 Trapping the, 125. 
 
 Traps for, 43, lis? 127, 128, 131, 13 
 Ritions for a Campaign, 230. 
 Raw Furs. — See Furs. 
 Recipe for insect ointments, 255. 
 
 Boot grease, 228. 
 
 For cookin.g, 230. 
 
 For curing skins, 272. 
 
 For tanning skins, 276. 
 Red Fox.— See Fox. 
 Red Fox.— 
 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 
 Use of skin, 285. 
 Red Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257. 
 Red Squirrel. — See Squirrel. 
 Remedies for insect bites, 255. 
 
 For chills, 257. 
 Rec^uisites of a good steel trap, 138. 
 ''' For snaring, 39. 
 " For a good trapping ground, 225. 
 " For a trapping campaign, 227. 
 
 Revolver, 227. 
 
 Reynard outwitted by a dead-fall, in, 
 
 113- 
 Rhodium, Oil of: — 
 
 Its use by the trapper, 151. 
 Rice as food, 236. 
 Rifle and Shot Gun combined, 227. 
 
 Oil for, 227. 
 Rifle Trap, 20. 
 Roasting, recipes for, 233. 
 Rocky Mountain Sheep. — See Big Horn. 
 " Roughing it," 230. 
 Rubber blanket, 236. 
 
 How used, 250. 
 Ruffed Grouse.— See Partridge. 
 Rum on a trapping campaign, 257. 
 
 Sage Cock, the, 238. 
 
 Sale cf furs by the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany, 282. 
 Salmon, spearinj', 239. 
 
 " Spear, 239. 
 Salmon Trout, spearing, 239. 
 Salmon, to cook deliciously, 232. 
 Salt as bait for Deer, 218. 
 
 As bait for Rabbit, 109. 
 Salt Lick, the, 218. 
 
 Sandpaper used in softening sHns, 276. 
 Salt Pork as feed.. 231. 
 Scent Baitf, 149. 
 
 " Compound, 150, 153. 
 Scented baits for birds, 240. 
 Scented baits for fish, 240. 
 Season for Deer huntir.g, 218. 
 Scow, 267. 
 
 Season for trapping, 147. 
 Selection cf trapping ground, 225. 
 Self-amputation as a means of escape 
 
 with captured animals, 144. 
 Se;f-amputation, to prevent, 144, 145. 
 Self-raising flour, 235. 
 Self-setting Traps, no, 125, 127, 131. 
 Shanty: — 
 
 Bark.— S«e Bark Shanty. 
 
 "Home."— See Log Shanty. 
 
 Log.— See Log Shanty- 
 Sheeting as tent material, 247. 
 
 Watar-prorf, preparation for, 247. 
 Shellac Varnish used in water-proofing, 
 
 234. 
 Shelter : — The trapper's remarks on, 
 
 226. 
 Shelter tent, 247. 
 
 Detailsof construction, 242. . 
 Shingle stretchers for skin?, 274. 
 
298 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 *' Shipping furs," 281. 
 
 Shooting and Poisoning, 222. 
 
 Shot-gan Trap, 20. 
 
 Shot-gun combined with rifle, 267. 
 
 Shoulder basket, 234, 226. 
 
 Sieve Trap, 65. 
 
 Silver Fox, 154. 
 
 Value of skin, 284, 285. 
 Skinning animals, hints on, 272. 
 Skins : — 
 
 Stretchers for, 273. 
 
 To drj--, 272, 376. 
 
 To soften, 276, 277. 
 
 To tan, 276. 
 
 Value of, 2S4. 
 
 Use of, 285. 
 Skunk, 195. 
 
 Adventure with, 196, 
 
 As food, 238- 
 
 Nature and habits of, 195. 
 
 Trapping the, 195. 
 
 Traps for, 43, in, 114, 141. 
 
 To eradicate odor of, 152, 19S. 
 
 Oil of, used in trapping, 151. 
 
 Directions for skinning, 198. 
 
 Use of skin, 286. 
 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 Sled, Indian.— See Toboggan. 
 Sliding Pole, 145. 
 Slippery Elm used for bird-lime, 9S. 
 *' Small Game '^ as food, 237. 
 Smell, acute sense of, in animals, 14S. 
 Smoking the steel trap, 128. 
 Smouldering birch bark to drive away in- 
 sects, 230. 
 Smudge, the, 230, 256. 
 Snare. — 
 
 Box, 55. 
 
 Double box, 56. 
 
 Fig. Four, 62. 
 
 Hawk, 43. 
 
 Hedge, 42. 
 
 Hoop, 40. 
 
 Humming-bird, 99. 
 
 Knotted string, 52, 53, 54. 
 
 Pasteboard box, 56. 
 
 Platform, 61. 
 
 Poacher's, 48. 
 
 Portable, 48, 50, 52. 
 
 Quail, 53. 
 
 Rat, 43. 
 
 " Simplest," 52. 
 
 Springle, 58, 60. 
 
 Stovepipe, 120. 
 
 Tree, 42. 
 
 Triangle, 42. 
 
 Twitchun, 43. 
 
 Wood Chucic, 43, 
 Snares, or Noose Traps, 39. 
 
 Snaring, requisites for, 39. 
 Snow Grouse, the, 238. 
 Snow-Shoes, 267. 
 Snow-shoe race, 267. 
 Softening skins, 276, 277. 
 Sores resulting from insect bites, 257. 
 Soups, recipes for, 236. 
 Spearing fish, 239, 241. 
 Spearing Muskrats, 183. 
 Spider for cooking, 233. 
 Spoons, 235. 
 Spring-bed, 249. 
 Springle, 58, 60. 
 Spring-net Traps, 80. 
 Spring-pole, the, 144. 
 Spring, to temper, 84. 
 Spruce Bark Canoes, 264. 
 Spruce boughs as bedding, 250. 
 Spruce Grouse, 23S. 
 Squirrels, 211. 
 As food, 238. 
 Nature and habits ot, 211. 
 Traps for, 43, 103, 106, 107, no, 116^ 
 
 128, 140. 
 Various species of, 213. 
 To cook, 233. 
 Use of skins, 286. 
 Steel Traps, 137. 
 
 Caution in handling, 149. 
 
 Concealing in the woods, 229. 
 
 Various modes of setting, 144. 
 
 Requisite number for a campaign, 
 227. 
 
 To set for rats, 128. 
 
 To select judiciously, 138. 
 
 Requisites of, 138. 
 
 Hints on baiting, 143. 
 Steel Tran sprinr, to set with lever, 142. 
 Steel Traps and the Art of Trap- 
 ping, 137. 
 Still hunting, 217. 
 Stimulants, 257. 
 Stone Dead-fall, 29. 
 Storing traps in the woods, 229, 
 Stove, portable, 228, 235. 
 Stovepipe fish-trap, 120. 
 St. Paul, Minn., and the Fur Trade, 2S1. 
 Stretchers for Skins, 273- 
 Strychnine poisoning, 222. 
 Sucker wire nooses, 41. 
 Sugar of lead used in water-proofing, 247. 
 Sun-glas'?, 234, 235. 
 Sweet Cicely as bait for fish, 240. 
 Sweet Fennel. — 
 
 Oil used in trappint^, 152. 
 Sweet Oil and Tar Ointment for insc:.! 
 
 bites, 255. 
 Swinging bed, 249. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 299 
 
 Table knifa and bowl trap, 135. 
 
 Table showing sale of turs by Hudson 
 
 Bay Company, 282. 
 Tallow, mutton, as ointment, 255. 
 Tame Geese as decoys, 75. 
 Tanning skins, 276. 
 
 Mixtures, 276, 277, 278. 
 
 With the hair on, 27b. 
 
 Simple, 278. 
 Tar and Sweet Oil ointment for insect 
 
 bites, 255. 
 Tar for water-proofing, 264. 
 Tea, 236. 
 
 Red pepper, as a remedy, 257. 
 Teai Ducks as food, 239. 
 
 To cook. — See Duck. 
 "Telescope" Drinking Cup, 231. 
 Temperiv;S iron spring, 84. 
 Tents, 246. 
 
 House-tent, 246. 
 
 Fly-tent, 247. 
 
 Half-tent, 247. 
 
 Shelter-tent, 247. 
 
 Material?, 247. 
 
 Water-procf preparation for, 247. 
 
 Fire-prccf preparation for, 247. 
 
 To carpet with spruce, 250. 
 
 To clear of grats and musquito^s, 
 
 Tent CARP'tT'^NT, 2t;o. 
 
 Thimble used with bowl as Mouse trap, 
 
 136. 
 T^eer captured with bird lime, 35. 
 '^'-'prtrar, 31- 
 T'nder, 234- 
 Tip-uns, 240. 
 
 Toaster, an extP^rorizec'. 2'^t' 
 ToROGGAN. OR Indtan Si.edge, 26n. 
 Tools required on a trapping campaign, 
 
 Too^«; reou're.-l 10^ cnnof* buiM'P"', 2?n. 
 Torch for the head, used in night himting, 
 
 " Tonr^-wood " used in lighting fire, 234. 
 Trai'. The.— 
 
 Tfs vriltie in t^« tr^pr'''-, 15"?. 
 
 Various modes ci making', 153. 
 Trap.— 
 
 Arrow, 2-», 21;. 
 
 ■R^rreU 12c, i?j. 
 
 F?ird, 6?, 70, jf. 75, 88, go, gr, g'l. 
 
 T?ow. 27, 25, 116. 
 
 T?ow!, 135. 
 
 ^^^1 55» S^> 88, go, gr, 103, 10^, icK'f 
 110. 
 
 Brick, 66. 
 
 Cage, 76, 134. 
 
 Cob house, 67. 
 
 Coon, no, 116, 141. 
 
 Coop, 33, 67, 70. 
 
 Crow, gb. 
 
 Deaa-fall, 17, 107, iiie 
 
 Decoy, 72, 7b, 94. 
 
 Double erder, icg. 
 
 Down-fall, 26. 
 
 Duck, g4, gs- 
 
 Fish, 120. 
 
 Fish hook, gs. 
 
 Fly, 136. 
 
 Fool's-cap, g6* 
 
 Garotte, 114. 
 
 Gun, 20. 
 
 Harpoon, 26. 
 
 Hawk, 42, g3. 
 
 Hook, gs- 
 
 Jar, 135- 
 
 Mole, iig, 120. 
 
 Mouse, 130, 13 !» »34> '35' 
 
 Net, 70, 73» 75> 80, 83, 85. 
 
 Owl, 88. 
 
 Partridge, 43, etc. 
 
 Pendent Box, gi. 
 
 PltfalU It, 125, 127, 131. 
 
 Ptarmigan, 75. 
 
 Quail, 3g, 40, 41, 53* 
 
 Rabbit, 43> 64, 103. 
 
 R-'^ 43, 125, 127, 128, 13 r, 138. 
 
 Rlflf', 20. 
 
 S^if-settinj]', no, 125, 127, 131. 
 
 Siev-^, 65. 
 
 Snring net, So, Si, 85. 
 
 Steel, f.o. 
 
 The "■ Newhrusc," 140. 
 
 Treo, 42, OT. 
 
 U'-'nVht ret, Fs* 
 
 Wild Duck, g4, 95. 
 
 Wild Grose. 75. 
 
 Woodchuck, 4'. 
 Trapper's beds ard heddirr, 248. 
 " Cooking utensils, 230. 
 " Diet, 270. 
 TRAppER^s Miscellany, 255, 
 *' Shelter, 226. 742. 
 ** Sled.— See Toboggan. 
 Trapping, art of, 148. 
 
 Season for, 147. 
 
 Miscellaneous hints on, 148. 
 
 CamnaiqTj, plan of. 22«;. 
 
 Too^s and other reruisiles, 227. 
 O'-ound, selection of, 22 ^. 
 
 V^^nh'e sucjp'estions (»n, c:8. 
 Trnnpinor Tiinc:-, 226 
 Trap robber?, 220. 
 Traps for large game, 17. 
 
300 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 For Feathered Game, 65. 
 
 Household, 125. 
 Tree hunting, 218. 
 Tree snare, 42. 
 
 " Traps, 42, 91- 
 Triangle Snake, 42. 
 Trout, to cook dehciously, 232. 
 Trumpet Creeper flower used as a trap, 
 
 99. 
 Tumbler fly-trap. 136. 
 Twitch-up, 43, 62. 
 
 Poacher's, 48. 
 
 Portable, 50. 
 
 " Simplest," 520 
 
 U 
 
 Upright Net Trap, 85. 
 
 " Saares 44, 58. 
 Use and abuse of Alcohol, 257. 
 Uses of fur skins, 285. 
 Utensils for cooking, 230, 235. 
 
 V 
 
 Value of fur sVin-., table of, 262. 
 Various uses cf fur skins, 285. 
 Varnish water-procf preparation for pre- 
 serving matches, 234. 
 Vegetables for i^od on a campaign, 23 5. 
 
 " Canned, 236. 
 Venison as food, 233, 237. 
 
 To roast, 233, 
 
 To preserve, 237, 
 
 "Jerked," 237. 
 
 Dried, 237. 
 
 W 
 
 Walking on the snow, 267. 
 War in the fur trade, 281. 
 Watch crystal as sun glass, 287 
 Water fowl as food, 239. 
 Water-proof application for boats, 261, 
 264, 266. 
 
 " Canvas bags, for food, 236. 
 Match safe, 234. 
 
 " Preparation, 236, 247, 266. 
 
 " Varnish for matches, 234. 
 Water traps, no, 120. 
 Wedge stretcher for skins, 274. 
 Weighted harpoon trap, 26. 
 Wheaten grits as trappers' food, 236. 
 Wheat flour as food, 235. 
 " Seli-raising, 235- 
 
 Wheel form of trapping lines, 229. 
 Whiskey on a trappmg campaign, 257. 
 Whip lashes from vVoodchuck hide, 204. 
 Whistlebird, 74. 
 White Birch Canoe, 261. 
 White-wood log for Dug-out, 259. 
 Widgeon, the, as food, 239. 
 To cook. —See Duck. 
 Wild Cat : — 
 
 Nature and habits cf, 167. 
 
 Snares for, 43. 
 
 Trapping the, 166. 
 
 Skinning the, 168. 
 
 Uses of skin, 286. 
 
 Value cf skin, 284. 
 Wild Duck, to cook. 233. 
 Wild Duck, traps, 94, 95. 
 Wild Goose as food, 239. 
 Wild Goose to cook, 233. 
 Wild Goose trap, 75. 
 Wind, direction cf, to detect by the finger 
 
 217. 
 Winged verrr.u"', 255. 
 Winter fishing, 240. 
 Wire cage trap for birds, 76. 
 
 " " For mice, 134' 
 Wire nooses, 41. 
 Wolf.— 
 
 Nature and habits of, 158. 
 
 Trapping the, 158. 
 
 Poisoning the, 222. 
 
 Traps for, 20, 141. 
 
 To protect provisions frcm, 237. 
 
 Varieties cf, 158.^ 
 
 Directions for skinning, 161. 
 
 Use of skin, 286. 
 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 Wolverine : — 
 
 Nature and habits of, 199, 238. 
 
 Trapping the, 199. 
 
 Natural enemy to the Beaver, 200. 
 
 Directions for skinning, 201. 
 
 Use of skin, 286. 
 
 Value of skin, 284. 
 WooDCHUCK, 204. 
 
 As food, 238. 
 
 Nature and habits cf, 204. 
 
 Snare, 205. 
 
 Trapping the, 204. 
 
 Use of skin, 204. 
 
 Smoked from its burrow, 205. 
 
 Removing skin of, 205. 
 Woodcock, to cook, 233. 
 Wood Duck as food, 230. 
 
 To cook.— See Duck. 
 Woodland beds and bedding, 249* 
 Wounds, ointment for, 255. 
 
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