AMP LIFE AND RICKS OF RAPPING Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/deta.ils/camplifeinwoodstOOgibsrich THE LIBRARY OF > THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS AND THE TRICKS OF TRAPPING AND TRAP MAKING CONTAINING COMPREHENSIVE HINTS ON CAMP SHELTER, LOG HUTS, BARK SHANTIES, WOODLAND BEDS AND BEDDING, BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, AND VALUABLE SUGGES- TIONS ON TRAPPERS* FOOD, ETC. WITH EXTENDED CHAPTERS ON THE trapper's ART, CONTAINING ALL THE '* TRICKS " AND VALUABLE BAIT RECIPES OF THE PROFESSION ; FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF THE STEEL TRAP, AND FOR THE CONSTRUC- TION OF TRAPS OF ALL KINDS; DETAILED INSTRUC- TIONS FOR THE CAPTURE OF ALL FUR-BEARING animals; VALUABLE RECIPES FOR THE CURING AND TANNING OF FUR SKINS, ETC., ETC. BY W. HAMILTON GIBSON AUTHOR OF ** PASTORAL DAYS " ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR NEW YORK HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE (^Stereotyped by John W- Lovell) lf^( Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1881, by W. HAMILTON GIBSON, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. All rights reserved. TO MY BELOVED FRIENDS, MR. AND MRS. F. W. GUNN, KIND INSTRUCTORS, AND PARTICIPANTS IN THE BRIGHTEST JOYS OF MY YOUTH, THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY €l)e 5lutl)0r. V\3\Z^(^8 F all the various subjects in the catalogue of sports and pastimes, there is none more sure of arousing the enthusiasm of our American boys generally, than that which forms the title of this book. Traps and Trapping, together I with its kindred branches, always have been and always will be subjects of great interest among boys, and particularly so to those who live in the country. It is a fact to be regretted that we have so few examples of " Boys' Books " pubhshed in this country. There are a few English works of this character, that are very excellent as far as they go, but are nevertheless incomplete and unsatisfactory to the wants of American boys, dwelling largely on sports which are essentially English, and merely touching upon or utterly excluding othe7' topics which are of the utmost interest to boys of this country. In no one of these books, so far as the author of the present volume knows, is the subject of Traps consider- ed to any fair extent, and those examples which are given, represent only the most common and universal varieties already known to the general public. M3it;3(jy 4 PREFACE. With these facts in mind, the author has entered with zeal- ous enthusiasm upon the preparation of a work which shall fill this odd and neglected corner in literature, and judging from the reminiscences of his own boyish experiences, he feels cer- tain that in placing such a volume within reach of the pubHc, he supplies a long felt want in the hearts of his boy-friends throughout the land. Far be it from us in the publication of this volume, to be un- derstood as encouraging the wanton destruction of poor inno- cent animals. Like all kindred sports, hunting and fishing for example, the sport of Trapping maybe perverted and carried to a point where it becomes simple cruelty, as is always the case when pursued for the mere exciteine^it it brings. If the poor victims are to serve no use after their capture, either as food, or in the furnishing of their plumage or skins for useful purposes, the sport becomes heartless cruelty, and we do not wish to be un- derstood as encouraging it under any such circumstances. In its right sense trapping is a delightful, healthful, and legiti- mate sport, and we commend it to all our boy-readers. It shall be the object of the author to produce a thoroughly Practical volume, presenting as far as possible such examples of the trap kind as any boy, with a moderate degree of ingenui- ty, could easily construct, and furthermore to illustrate each variety with the utmost plainness, supplemented with the most detailed description. With the exception of all " clap-trap," our volume will em- brace nearly every known example of the various devices used for the capture of Bird, Beast, or Fowl, in all countries, simpli- fying such as are impracticable on account of their complicated structure, and modifying others to the j)eculiar adaptation of the American Trapper. Devices, which inflict cruelty and prolonged suffering, shall, as far as possible, be excluded, as this is not a necessary quali- fxation in any trap, and should be guarded against wherever possible. Following out the suggestion conveyed under the PREFACE. 5 title of " The Trapper," we shall present full and ample direc- tions for baiting traps, selections of ground for setting, and other hints concerning the trapping of all our principal game and wild animals, valuable either as food or for their fur. In short, our book shall form a complete trapper's guide, embrac- ing all necessary information on the subject, anticipating every want, and furnishing the most complete and fully illustrated volume on this subject ever presented to the public. In vain did the author of this v/ork, in his younger days, search the book stores and hbraries in the hopes of finding such a book, and many are the traps and snares which necessity forced him to invent and construct for himself, for want of just such a vol- ume. Several of these original inventions will appear in the present work for the first time in book form, and the author can vouch for their excellence, and he might almost say, their infalli- biHty, for in their perfect state he has never yet found them to "miss " in a single instance. As the writer's mind wanders back to his boyish days, there is one autumn in particular which shines out above all the rest ; and that was when his traps were first set and were the chief source of his enjoyment. The adventurous excitement which sped him on in those daily tramps through the woods, and the buoyant, exhilarating effect of the exercise can be realized only by those who have had the same experience. The hope of suc- cess, the fears of disappointment, the continual suspense and wonder which fill the mind of the young trapper, all combine to invest this sport with a charm known to no other. Trapping does not consist merely in the manufacture and setting of the various traps. The study of the habits and peculiarities of the different game — here becomes a matter of great importance ; and the study of natural history under these circumstances affords a continual source of pleasure and profit. Among the most useful, although the most cruel, of inven- tions used by the professional trapper are the steel traps ; so much so that the author would gladly omit them. But as they 6 PREFACE. are of such unfailing action, of such universal efficacy, and in many cases are the only ones that can be used, any book on trapping would certainly be incomplete without them. The scope of our volume not only embraces the arts of trapping and trap-making, but extends further into the subject of the wild life of a trapping campaign, — containing full directions for build- ing log cabins, and shanties ; boats and canoes; hints on food and cooking utensils ; also full directions for the curing and tanning of fur skins, — in short, a complete repository of all use- ful information pertaining to the life and wants of a professional trapper. In the preparation of the work no pains have been spared to insure clearness in general directions, and every point which would be likely to puzzle the reader has been specially covered by separate illustration. In this particular it stands unique in the list of boys' books. Every difficulty has been anticipated, and in every instance the illustrations will be found thoroughly comprehensive and complete. That the care and thoroughness which has been displayed throughout the work, and to which its pages will bear witness, may meet with the appreciation and enthusiastic approval of every boy-reader throughout the land, is the most earnest hope of The Author. ^i?-*;,^- '-• BOOK I. TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. Introduction.— The Dead Fall.— Honey as Bait for Bears.— The Gun Trap.— Pe- culiar Habits of the Puma. — " Baiting" for the Puma.— Caution required in Set- ting the Gun Trap. — Several Guns used.— Different Modes of Setting — Various animals to which the Gun Trap is adapted. — The Bow Trap.— Vane and Barb for Arrows. — Best Wood for Bow. — A Second Example of Bow Trap.— Arrows Barbed and Poisoned. — The Down Fall ; or Hippopotamus Trap. — The terri- ble Harpoon used by the African Trapper. — Different Modes of Setting the Down Fall. — Modification of the Down Fall for small animals.— -The Bear Trap. — Various Methods of Setting. — Honey as Bait for Bear. — Bait for Puma. — The Pitfall. — Use of the Trap in Asia as a means of defence against the Tiger.— Disposition of the Bait. — Wonderful agility of the Puma. — Niceties re- quired in the construction of the Pitfall. — The Log Coop Trap. — Various ani- mals for which it is adapted.— Different Modes of Setting.— The Corrall or Hopo of Africa.— Its Construction and Appalling Effects.— The Net Trap.— Its Use in the Capture of the Lion and the Tiger. — American animals to which it may be adapted.— Two Methods of Setting.— Bird Lime.— Its Use for the Capture of the Lion and Tiger pages 17—36. IV CONTENTS. BOOK II. SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. General Remarks.— Requisite Materials for Snaring.— The Quail Snare.—" Suck- er Wire " Nooses.— Six Quail caught at a time.— Hoop Nooses.— Horse Hair Nooses.— Hedge Nooses.— Peculiarities of the Grouse.— Selection of Ground. — The Triangle Tree Snare.— A Hawk captured by the device. — The Wire Noose, as arranged for the capture of the Woodchuck, Muskrat, and House Rat. —The Twitch-up.— Selection of Ground for Setting.— Various Modes of Con- structing the Traps.— The Poachers' Snare — Its portability.— The Porta- ble Snare.— Its PecuUar Advantages.— The " Simplest " Snare.— The valuable principle on which it is Constructed.— Its Portability.— Various Adaptations of the Principle.— The Quail Snare.— Its ample capabiUties of Capture.— Peculi- arities of the Quail.— Successful Baits.— The Box Snare.— Modification in a very small scale.— The Double Box Snare.— The Animals for which it is Adapted.— Ground Snares.— The Old-Fashioned Spingle — The Im- proved Spingle. — Objections to Ground Snares. — The Figure Four Ground Snare. — The Platform Snare pages 39 — 62. BOOK III. TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. The Sieve Trap.— The Brick Trap.— The Coop Trap— Improved Method of Set- ting.— Defects of the old style.— The Bat Fowling Net.— Its Use in England. —How the Dark Lantern is Used by Bird Catchers.— The Clap Net Its Ex- tensive Use in Foreign Countries.— Decoy Birds.— The " Bird Whistle " used in place of decoy.— Wonderful Skill attained in the Use of the Bird Whistb.— Selec- tion of Trapping Ground.— The Bird Whistle Described.— Its Use and Marvel- lous Capabilities.— The Wild Goose Trap.— Its Extensive U#e in the Northern Cold Regions for the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan.— Tame Geese Used as Decoys.— Gravel as Bait.— The Trap Cage.— A Favorite Trap among Bird Catchers.— Call Birds.— The Spring Net Trap.— Rubber Elastic as Spring Power.— A Simpler Net Trap.— Common Faults in many Bird Traps.— Com- plicated Construction an Unnecessary Feature. — Requisites of a good Bird Trap. — Hints on Simple Mechanism. — Different Modes of Constructing Hinge. — Hoop IronUsed as Spring Power. — Manner of Tempering Spring — The Upright Net Trap.— A Second Method of Constructing Platform.— The Box Owl Trap. — Ventilation a Desirable Feature in all Box Traps. — Tin Catch for Securing Cover in Place. — Peculiar Mode of Baiting for Birds. — Modification of Perch. — Baiting for the Owl.— Locality for Setting.— The Owl in Captivity — Its Food.— Hints on the Care of the Bird. — The Box Bird Trap. — Cigar Box Used as a Trap. — The Pendent Box Trap — Ventilation. — Simple Mechanism. — Care in Construction of Bearings. — The Hawk Trap. — A "Yankee" Invention. — Stiff-Pointed Wires Effectually Used in the Capture of the Hawk — Owl also Captured by the Same Device.— The Wild Duck Net.— Its Use in Chesa- peake Bay. — Manner of Constructing the Net. —Decoy Ducks. ~ Bait for Ducks.— The Hook Trap.— Its Cruel Mode cf Capture.— Peculiar Bait for Ducks.— The " Fool's Cap" Trap.— Its Successful Use in the Capture of the Crow. — Shrewdness of the Crow. —Strange antics of a Crow when Captured in the Trap. — Bird Lime the Secret of its Success. — Wonderful Tenac- ity of the Cap. — Different Modes of Setting — Bird Lime Described. — Its as- tonishing " Sticky " Qualities. — The Bird Lime of the Trade — Various " Home- Made" Recipes. — Manner of Using Bird Lime. — Limed Twigs. — The Owl Used as a Decoy in connection with Bird Lime. — Bird Lime used in the Capture of the Humming Bird. — A Flower Converted into a Trap. — Masticated Wheat as Bird I^ime. — Its Ready Removal from the Feathers. — Delicate Organization of the Humming Bird — Killed by Fright. — Use of its Plumage. — Snares for the Hum- ming Bird. — Blow Guns Successfully Used for its Capture. — Killed by Concus- sion. — D.sablcd by a Stream of Water pages 65 — 99. CONTENTS. V BOOK IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. The Common Box Trap.— Two Modes of Setting.— Animals for which it is Adapted. -A Modification of the Trap.— Another Box Trap.— The Figure Four Trap. — Its Advantages, — The Double Ender — A Favorite Trap in New Eng- land. — Simplicity of Construction. — The Rabbit's Fondness for Salt. — Its Use as a Bait.— The Self-Setting Trap. — Animals for which it is adapted. — The Dead Fall. — Various Methods of Construction. — Animals for which it is usually Set. — Remarkable Cunning of some Animals. — The Precautions which it Neces- sitates. — Bait for the Muskrat. — Various Baits for the Mink. — Skunk Baits. — A Fox Entrapped by a Dead Fall.— Slight Modification in the Arrangement of Pieces. — Live Duck used as Bait.— Another Arrangement for the Dead Fall. — Trap Sprung by the Foot of the Animal. — The Figure Four Trap. — Applied to the Dead Fall. — The Garotte. — Its Singular Mode of Capture. — Its Common Victims — The Bow Trap. — An oddity of the Trap Kind. — Its Singular mechan- ism.— The Mole Trap.— A Much-needed Contrivance.— Subterranean Mode of Setting.— Its UnfaiHng Success.— A Fish Trap.— A Section of Stove Pipe used as a Trap. — Its Various Victims, — Adjustment of Bait. — Curious Mode of Cap- ture pages 103 — 121. BOOK V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. A Chapter Dedicated to Pestered Housekeepers. — The Domestic Cat as a Household Trap. — The Rat. — Its Proverbial Shrewdness and Cunning. — The Barrel Trap. — Its unlimited Capabilities of Capture — Other Advantages. — " Baiting " for Rats. — A Second Form of Barrel Trap. — Various other Devices adapted to the capture of the Rat. — The Steel Trap. — Hints on Setting. — Necessary Pre- cautions — The Box Dead Fall. — The Board Flap.— The Box Pit Fall. — Animals for which it may be set. — Its Extensive Capabilities of Capture. — Its Self-Setting Qualities. — The principle Utilized for the Capture of the Muskrat. — The Cage Trap. — The Jar Trap. — A Preserve Jar Converted into a Mouse Trap. — Its Complete Success. — Bowl Traps. — Two Methods. — Fly Paper. — Recipe for Maldng. —Fly Trap , pages 125 — 136. BOOK YI. STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. General Remarks. — Advantages of the Steel Trap. — Its extensive use in the business of Trapping. — Hints on the Selection cf Traps. — Requisites of a Good Steel Trap. — The Newhouse Trap. — Various sizes. — Rat Trap. — Muskrat Trap. — Mink Trap — Fox Trap — Otter Trap.— Beaver Trap.—'* Great Bear Tamer." — Small Bear Trap. — Hints on Baiting the Steel Trap. — The Staked Pen. — Old Method of Baiting. — Its Objections. — Advantages of the New Method. — The Spring Pole — Its Service to the Trapper. — The Sliding Pole. — Advantages of its Use in the Capture of Aauatic Animals. — The Clog.— Objections against Securing the Steel Trap to a Stake.— Method of Attaching the Clog.— The Grappling Iron.— The Season for Trapping.— Best condition for" Furs. — The Art of Trapping. — Antiquity of the Sport.— , Necessary Qualifications for Successful Tranping. — The Study of Natural His- > lory a source cf pleasure and profit.— The Professional Trapper's most serious VI CONTENTS. Obstacles. — Marvellous Cunning of many Animals. — Necessity of the Study of their Habits. — "Practical Natural History." — Trapping Without Bait. — Run- ways or By-paths. — How Utilized by the Trapper. — How Detected. — Favorable Localities for the Setting of the Steel Trap.— Natural Advantages.— Entrapping animals through their Sense of Smell. — Remarkable Power of Scent Baits.— Their great value in the Capture of the Beaver — Caution in Handling the Steel Trap.— Effect of the Touch of the Hand. — Buckskin Gloves a Necessary Re- quisite. — Medicines, or Scemt Baits. — Their Great Importance in the Art of Trapping. — Castoreum or Barkstone — How Obtained. — Castoreum Composi- tion. — Recipe for Making. — How Used. — Musk — Assafcetida — Oil of Rhod- ium. — Fish Oil. — Its General Use in the Capture of Aquatic Animals. — Valuable Recipe for its Manufacture. — Oil of Sk'Jnk. — How Obtained. — How Eradicated from Hands or Clothing.— Oil of Amber. — Oil of Ambergris. Oil of Anise. — Its General Use as a " Universal Medicine." —Sweet Fennel. — Cummin — Fenugreek — Lavender — Compound Medicine — The Trail— Its Object and Value.— Various Modes of Making. — How to Trap.— General Remarks. — The Fox — Its Scientific Classification.— The Various American Species. — The Red Fox. — The Cross Fox. — Why so Named.— The Black or Silver Fox.— The Great Value of its Fur.— The Prairie Fox.— The Kit or Swift Fox.— The Gray Fox.— Similarity in the General Characteristics of the Various Species.- Food of the Fox.— Its Home. — Its con- summate Craft.— Instances of its Cunning. —Baffling the Hounds.— How to Trap the Fox.— Preparation of the Trap. — Adverse Effect of Human Scent.— Neces- sity of handhng Trap with Gloves.— The " Bed."— " Baiting" the Bed Neces- sary.— Precautions in Setting the Trap. — The '* Tricks of the Trapper" Illus- trated. — How to Proceed in case of Non-Success. —The Scent-Baits Utilized. — Various Modes of Setting the Trap.— The Baits Commonly Used.— The Dead Fall as a Means of Capture — Common Mode of Skinning the Fox. — Directions for Stretching Skin. — The Wolf. — The Various Species. — Fierce Characteris- tics of the Wolf — Its Terrible Inroads among Herds and Flocks. — The Gray Wolf. — The Coyote or Common Prairie Wolf. — The Texan Wolf. — Home of the Wolf. — Number of Young. — Cunning of the Wolf. — Caution Required in Trap- ping. — How to Trap the Wolf. — Preparation of Trap. — Various Ways of Setting the Trap.— Use of the Trail and Scent Baits. — " Playing Possum."— The Dead Fall and "Twitch-up" as Wolf Traps.— Directions for Skinning the Wolf and Stretching the Pelt.— The Puma.— Its Scientific Classification.— Its Life and Habits — ItsWonderful Agility.— Its Skill as an Angler.— Its Stealth.— Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Puma.— The Gun Trap.— The Bow Trap. — The Dead Fall.— Trap for Taking the Animal Alive. — Log Coop Trap.— The Pit Fall.— Bait for the Puma.— The Steel Trap — Common ^Mode of Setting.— Selection of Locahtyfor Trappmg.— How to Skin the Puma.— Directions for Stretchmg the Pelt — The Canada Lynx — Description of the Animal.— Its Liieand Habits.— Its Food.— Its Peculiar Appearance when Running.— Easily Killed.— The Dead Fall as a Lynx Trap — Peculiar Manner of Construction for the Purpose.--The Gun Trap.— The Bow Trap.-The Twitch-up.— Young of the Lynx.---Valueof Its Fur.-The Steel Trap. -Various Methods of Setting. —Directions for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.— The Wild Cat. —Its Resemblance to the Domestic Species.— Its Strange Appetite.— Its Home. —Number of Young.--Haunts of the Wild Cat.— Its Nocturnal Marauding ex- peditions.— Its Lack of Cunnine.— How to Trap the Wild Cat— An Entire Colo, ny Captured.— Ferocity of the Wild Cat.— The Twitch-up.— Its Common Usein Axri?/^''^^^ ?f-^''^ "^'^^ Cat.— Other Successful Traps.— Various Baits for the Wild Cat— Directions for Skinning the Animal, and Stretching the Pelt.— The Bear.— The Various American Species.— The Grizzly.— Its Enormous Size and ■*^^"''-— Its Terrible Fury.— Description of the Animal.— Food of the Grizzly. —The Black Bear or Musquaw.— Its General Description.— Bear Hunting. — pan^ , or Fox Trap 141 100. " " No. 3, or Otter Trap 141 loi. " " No. 4, or Beaver Trap 141 102. " The Great Bear Tamer," Steel Trap 142 103. Steel Trap No. 5, or Small Bear Trap 143 \->\. Steel Trap set in pen 143 10 V The Spring Pole 145 io5. The Sliding pole 146 107. The Grappling Iron 147 108. The Wolf 159 109. The Puma 162 no. The Canada Lynx 165 xvi ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. 111. The Wild C .t 167 112. The Bear 170 113. The Raccoon 174 114. The Badger 176 115. The Beaver 178 116. The Otter 186 117. The Mink 190 li8. The Marten 192 J 19. The Skunk 196 120. The Wolverine 199 121. The Opossum 201 122. The Squirrel 212 123. The Moose 219 124. Initial to Book Vll 225 125. Portable Drinking Cup 231 126. The Home Shanty. 243 127. The Shelter tent 247 128. The Trapper's Bed 248 129. End Piece 251 130. Initial to Book VIII 255 131. Head Net ^57 132. Portable Hat-brim ^5^ 133. Hat-brim with netting attachment ^^^ 1 34. The Dug-out or Log Canoe •. ^59 13;. The Birch-Bark Canoe ^^^ 136. A Light Home-made Boat A 137. Diagram view of Boat . 138. The Snow Shoe "^9 139. The Toboggan or Indian Sledge ^7 140. The Board Stretcher . ^73 141. The Wedge Stretcher • ^74 142. The Bow Stretcher ^75 143. " The End " 257 y % M^n. ^■C\ /^> \(i^ BOOK I. TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. OWEVER free our forests may be from the lurking dangers of a tropical i|||||BHWHa|wrai|^^^ jungle, they nevertheless shelter a few fiUBB B^HHil^S ^ large and formidable beasts -which are legitimate and deserving subjects of the Trapper's Art. Chief among them are the Puma, or Cougar, Bear, Lynx, Wolf and Wolverine. Although commonly taken in steel traps, as described respectively in a later portion of this work, these animals are nevertheless often captured by Deadfalls and other devices, which are well koown to the professional Trapper, and which serve excellently in cases of emergency, or in the scarcity of steel traps. l-HE DEAD-FALL. There are several varieties of this trap, some of which are described in other parts of this volume. In general construc- tion they all bear a similarity, the methods of setting being slightly changed to suit the various game desired for capture. For large animals, and particularly the Bear, the trap is sprung by the pressure of the animal's foot, while reaching for the bait. Select some favorite haunt of the Bear, and proceed to construct a pen of large stakes. These should consist of young trees, or straight branches, about three inches in diame- ter, and should be of such a length as to reach a height of four or five feet when set in the ground, this being the required height of the pen. Its width should be about two and a half or three feet ; its depth, four feet ; and the top should be roofed over with cross pieces of timber, to prevent the bait from be- i8 TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. ing taken from above. A straight log, about eight inches in diameter, and six feet in length should now be rolled against the opening of the pen, and hemmed in by two upright posts, one on each side, directly on a line with the sides of the enclo- sure. Another log, or tree trunk, of the same diameter, and about fifteen or twenty feet in length, should next be procured. Having this in readiness, we will now proceed to the construc- tion of the other pieces. In order to understand the ar- rangement of these, we present a separate drawing of the parts M^/b. ^ -Q^ as they appear when the trap is set. (a), An upright post, is sup- plied at the upper end with a notch, having its flat face on the lower side. This post should be driven into the ground in the left hand back corner of the pen, and should be three feet cr more in height. Another post (d) of similar dimensions, is provided with a notch at its upper end, the notch being re- versed, /. e.j having its flat side tippermost. This post should be set in the ground, outside of the pen, on the right hand side and on a line with the first. A third post {c\ is provided with a crotch on its upper end. This should be planted outside of the pen on the right hand side, and on a line with the front. The treadle piece consists of a forked branch, about three feet THE DEAD-FALL. 19 in length, supplied with a square board secured across its ends. At the junction of the forks, an augur hole is bored, into which a stiff stick about three feet in length is inserted. This is shown at (//). Two poles, {d) and (^), should next be procured, each about four feet in length. These complete the number of pieces, and the trap may then be set. Pass the pole {d) between the stakes of the pen, laying one end in the notch in the post ("**'?*? and allow it to fly into the air. Method No. 2. In our next instance the same principle is employed. The THE " TVVITCII-UP. 47 notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, abt)ut five inches apart, with their notches towards ^the front. A forked bait stick of the shape shown is then procured. The draw-string should be attached near the end furthest from the fork. By now insert- ing the ends hghtly be- neath the notches in Method No. 3. the pegs, at the same time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trap will be set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge the pieces. Of course the noose must be arranged in the opening of the pen, as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both cases should be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at {a), so that the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position. A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In this instance the .original arch is used, or else some circular opening constructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the back part of the inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks are then to be made similar to those mentioned in our first ex- ample of the " Twitch-up." Let the draw-string be tied to the end of one of these sticks ; after which it should be passed undei the inside arch, being brought out in front of it, and there supported by the bait-stick, as seen in our illustration. The noose should then be attached to the draw-string above the pen, and afterward brought down and arranged in front of the opening. The trap is then set, and will be found on trial to work admirably. One of the simplest as well as surest of *' Twitch-up " traj^s forms the subject of our next illustration. Like the foregoing varieties it is of xilvt^^ course to be surrounded by its pen, ^^■^c:^ and supi^lied with a circular open- ^" ing or arch at one side, in which Method No. 4. to hang the noose. It is constructed of three twigs. A simple crotch (a) should be firmly inserted in the ground at 48 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. the back part of the pen ; (^) the bait stick, consists of a straight twig, five or six inches in length, and should be attached to the draw- string at about half an inch from the large end ; (c) is another forked stick with unequal arms, the long one ^ , being driven into the ground "^^^^'-J i» near the opening of the pen ^r'^V^Sff*- 'and a little to one side, let- Method No. 5. ting the remaining arm point directly towards the crotch-stick at the back of the pen. The noose having been attached to the draw-string, the trap may now be set. Lower the bait stick and pass the large end under the crotch at the back of the pen, catching the baited end un- derneath the tip of the forked stick near the pen's opening. Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, and the thing is done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throw the pieces asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the point of the forked stick (c) where it comes in contact with the bait stick, in order to make the bearing more slight, and consequently more easily thrown from its balance. THE poacher's SNARE. Our next example represents one of the oldest and best snares in existence, — simple in construction, and almost infal- lible in its operations. It is the one in most common use among the poachers of England, hence its name. The pieces are three in number, and may be cut from pine wood, affording easy and profitable employment for the jack-knife during odd hours and rainy days, when time hangs heavily. The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction that a sufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in less than two hours, by any smart boy, who is at all " handy " with his jack-knife. If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even much easier, — mere splitting and notching being then all that is necessary. The bait stick should be about eight inches long, pointed at one end, and supplied with a notch in the other at about half an inch from the tip. The upright THE POACHER'S SNARE. 49 stick should be considerably shorter than the bait stick, and have a length of about ten inches, one end being nicely pointed, and the broad side of the other extremity supplied with a notch similar to the bait stick. About four inches from the blunt end, and on the narrow side of the stick, a square notch should be cut, sufficiently large to admit the bait stick loosely. The catch piece now remains. This should be about two and a-half inches in length, half an inch in width, and bevelled off at each end into a flat edge. The shapes of the different pieces, together with their setting, will be readily understood by a look at our illustration. A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and may be easily carried by the young trapper, together with his other necessaries, as he starts off into the woods. He will thus be supplied with parts for thirty-three traps, all ready to be set, only requiring the stakes for the pens, which may be easily cut in the woods. Having selected a flexible sapling about five feet in length, and having stripped it of its branches, proceed to adjust the pieces. Take one of the upright sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, with its upper notch facing the sapling, and at about four feet distant from it. Bend down the ^' springer," and by its force determine the required length for the draw-string attaching one end to the tip of the sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, the latter having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose should then be attached to the draw-string about six inches above the catch- piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously di- rected. Its entrance should be on the side furthest from the springer, and should be so built as that the peg in the ground shall be at the back part of the enclosure. The pen being fin- ished, the trap may be set. Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square notch in the side of the upright peg ; or, if desired, it may be adjusted by a pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our illustration, always letting the baited end project toward the 50 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. bpening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the notches in the back of the upright peg and extremity of the bait-stick. By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently with- drawing the hand, the pieces will hold themselves together, only awaiting a lift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the wire loop at the opening of the pen, and you may leave the trap with the utmost confidence in its ability to take care of itself, and any unlucky intruder who tries to steal its property. Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed from rough twigs, as these are always to be found in the v/oods, and with a little practice are easily cut and shaped into the desired forms. If desired, however, many of them may be whittled from pine wood like the foregoing, and the pieces car- ried in a bundle, ready for immediate use. In either case, whe- ther made from the rough twigs or seasoned wood, it is a good plan to have them already prepared, and thus save time at the trapping ground when time is more valuable. THE PORTABLE SNARE. This is simply a modification of the snare just described, but possesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In the first place, it requires little or no protection in the shape of an enclosure. It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short in any place where an upright elastic branch can be found or adjusted. Like the foregoing, it is to be commended for its portability, fifty or sixty of the pieces making but a small par- cel, and furnishing material for a score of traps. We call it the ** portable snare" partly in order to distinguish it from the one just described, but chiefly because this particular variety is generally called by that name in countries where it is most used. It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle or thin board. Let the first be about eight inches long, and three-quarters of an inch in width. This is for the upright. An oblong mortise should be cut through this piece, one inch in length, and beginning at about an inch from the end of the stick. Three inches from the other end, and on one of the broad sides of the stick, a notch should be made, correspond- ing in shape to that shown in our illustration. The bait stick should be four or five inches long, one end fitting easily into the mortise, where it should be secured by a wire or smooth nail THE PORTABLE SNARE 51 driven through so as to form a hinge, on which it will work easily. On the upper side of this stick, and two inches dis- tant from the pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to that in the upright. The catch piece should be about two inches in length, and bevelled off to a flat edge at each end. This completes the pieces. To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sa]> ling, after which the upright stick may be attached to it close to the ground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, twisted firmly around both. It is well to cut slight grooves at each end of the uj^right for the reception of the wires, in order to prevent slipping. Tic a strong piece of twine around one 52 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut the string about two feet in length, and attach the other end to the tip of the sapling. Adjust the bait stick on its pivot. By now lowering the catch piece, and lodging the knot- ted end beneath the notch in the upright and the other end in the notch on the bait stick, the pieces will appear as in our drawing. Care should be taken to set the catch pieces as slightly as possible in the notches, in order to insure sensitive- ness. At about four inches from the catch piece, the wire noose should be attached and arranged in a circle directly around the bait. By now backing up the trap with a few sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from be- hind, the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided crea- ture that dares to test its efficacy. By adjusting the draw- string so far as the upper end of the catch piece, the leverage on the bait stick is so slight as to require a mere touch to over- come it ; and we may safely say that, when this trap is once baited, it will stay baited, so far as animal intruders are con- cerned, as we never yet have seen a rabbit or bird skilful enough to remove the tempting morsel before being summarily dealt with by the noose on guard duty. For portability, however, the following has no eaual. THE "SIMPLEST'' SNARE. Thfl* is one of the most ingeni- ous and effective devices used in the art of trapping; and the prin- ciple is so simple and universal in its application to traps in gen- eral as to become a matter of great value to all who are at all interested in the subject. There is scarcely a trap of any kind which could not be set with the knotted string and bait stick, at the expense of a little thought and ingenuity. The principle is ^-^* J- >'-/.^. >S. easily understood by a look at our ^'i^il.^-^-^^^ engraving, which probably repre- Method No. i. sents the simplest twitch-up it is possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole the size of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the THE QUAIL SNARE. 53 ground. The "knot'* is made on the end of the raw-string, and passed through the hole in the peg from behind, being secured in place by the insertion of the bait stick in front. The latter should be about four inches long, and should be inserted very lightly, — merely enough to prevent the knot from slipping back. The noose should be fastened to the draw-string six or seven inches from the knot, and arranged in front of the bait at the opening of the pen, which should be constructed as l^reviously directed. The peg should be about six inches long and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inch auger. Dozens ol these pegs may be carried without inconvenience, and utilized in the same number of snares, in a very short time. We have already described the so-called " portable snare ; " but, for portability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the above. We give also a few other applications of the same prin- ciple. In the second example, a horizontal stick is used instead of the peg, the hole being made in its centre. Its ends are caught in notches in op- posite sticks at the back part of the pen, and the noose arranged at the opening. Again, by a third meth- od (see engraving ^ext page), these notched sticks may be driven into the ground first, and a row of twigs continued on them on both sides, thus leaving a passage- way between, as repre- sented in the illustration. A noose may then be set at each opening, with the bait in the middle ; so that, at whichever side it is approached, the result is the same, besides affording a chance of securing two birds at the same time. THE QUAIL SNARE. That quaus are sociable in their habits, and that they run together in broods in search of their food, is a fact well known Method No. 2. 54 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. to all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus afforded the hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advan- tage may be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for it. For this purpose there is no invention more desirable or effective than the snare we next illustrate ; and on account of the companionable habits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch six birds as one. The principle on which the trap works, is the same as in the three foregoing. Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inches apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneath these sum- mits, as just described. It should be firmly secured ; several nooses are next to be attached to the draw- string, and the trap set as already directed. The best bait consists of a " nub " of pop-corn, firmly impaled on the spindle, to- gether with a few loose Method No. 3. grains scattered on the ground right beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around the bait so as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introduced into the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose. The quail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground, and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses. When the supply here is ex- hausted, then united attacks are directed towards the " nub " on the bait stick, which soon be- comes loosened : the knot is thus released and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid- air. This invention is original with the author of this work, so far as he knows ; and it will be found the simplest as well as nost effective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned is bait partly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail; but particularly because the J^eckin^ which it necessitates ^^ THE BOX SNARE. SS in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to sprino^ the trap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answer very well Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait, if desired. THE BOX SNARE. This is a most unique device, and will well repay any one who may aesire to test its merits. It may be set for rabbits, coon, or feathered game, of course vary- ing the size of the box accord- ingly. For ordin- ary purposes, it should be seven oreight inches square, leaving one end open. Place it in the position shown in the illustra- tion and proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a half inches from the back edge. This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly opposite to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched peg should be inserted. A gimlet hole sliould now be bored on a hne between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch from ,be latter. A small stout screw eye should next be inserted at ':he rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the back board, two inches from the bottom. With these simple preparations the box is complete. The bait stick should be about five or six inches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end. It should be of such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and provided with a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half from the notched end, as shown in our illustration at (a). The object of this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn entirely through the hole by the 5 56 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. force ot the pull from above. The catch piece should be only long enough to secure its ends beneath the notches in the pe^ at the top of the box and the j^rojecting bait stick. It should be bevelled off at the tips as in the instances previously de- scribed, and attached to a piece of sucker wire, the point of attachment being at about an inch from the end of the stick. The wire should be about two and a half feet in length, the catch piece being fastened at about six inches from one end. To set this neat little invention it is first necessary to procure a strong and elastic switch about four feet in length, sharpen it slightly at the large end and insert it firmly in the screw eye at the back of the box, securing it in place at the top by strings through the screw eye at that place. By nov/ attaching the short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling, inserting the bait stick from the inside of the box, and securing the catch piece in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium, and the only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long end of the wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slipping noose which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In order to reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose, " and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that tempting morsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire around the neck of the intruder. Where the trap is small and the captured animal is large, it w^ill sometimes happen that the box v/ill be carried a distance of several feet before overpowering its victim ; but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers of the sapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. If desired, the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree to prevent any such capers ; but it will generally be found unne- cessary, and a few minutes' search will always reveal it v/ith its unlucky captive. We have described the box with its spring attached ; but this is not a requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when required. The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and whalebone, for the capture of small birds, and used with good success. The size we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits and animals of the same size, but is really larger than necessary for feathered game. THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE. This is another embodiment of the same principle which has already been described, viz. — the knotted string. By many it THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE. 57 is considered ah improvement on the box snare just mentioned, owing to the possibiHty of its taking two victims at the same time. It may be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be found very efficient. It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in length, and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board a hole of the diameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a smaller aperture also made in the middle of each end near the edge as seen in the accompanying engraving. The spring is next required. This should consist of an elastic switch or small pole, three or more feet in length. It should be inserted in a slanting auger hole, made through the middle of one of the side boards near the bottom at the angle shown at (a)» Should the switch fit loosely it may be easily tightened by a small wedge driven in beside it. The bait stick (^) should be about four inches in length, and large enough to fit casiiy into the hole in the centre of the top board. Next procure a stout bit of cord about eight inches in length. Tie one end to the tip of 5^ SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. the switch and provide the other with a large double knot. A second knot should then be made, about an inch and a half above the first. A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity. Its length should be about five feet, and its centre should be tied over the uppermost knot in the string. If the bait is now in readiness, the trap may be set. Bend down the switch until the end knot will pass through the hole in the centre of the board. When it appears in the inside of the box, it should then be secured by the insertion of the top of the bait stick, as shown at (b). This insertion need be only very slight, a sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficient to prevent the knot from slipping back. The spring is thus held in the posi- tion seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of the sucker wire should then be passed downward through the small holes and arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap is now set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that bait from either approach, will bring its career to an untimely end. The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need only the slightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting ^s to be guarded against, however, being as likely to be sprung by a mouse as by a larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, being entirely dependent upon the slight or firm insertion of the bait stick. Among all the " modi operandi " in the con- struction of traps, there is scarcely one more simple than the principle embodied in this variety, and there is none more ef- fective. The box snare already described may be set by the same method, and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any trap, from the simplest snare described en page ( 52 ) to the largest dead-fall. GROUND SNARES. THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE. This is the variety of snare which has been in very common use for ages, and has always been the one solitary example of a noose trap which our ^' boys' books '' have invariably pounced upon for illustration. For the capture of small birds it works very nicely ; and as without it our list of traps would be incomplete, we will give an illustration of it as it appears when THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE. 59 set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is first necessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about eighteen inches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (a), securing the tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the larger end to project an inch or more beyond the other. This loop, which is called the "spreader," should now be laid down flat; ond on the upper side of the large end and about an inch from its tip, a notch should be cut as our illustration shows. The spring should next be procured, and should consist of a pliant, elastic switch, about four feet in length. A piece of fish line about two feet long, should now be fastened to the tip of the switch, and the loose end of the cord attached to a catch piece of the shape shown at (b). This catch may be about an inch and a half long, and should be whittled off to an edge on one end, the string being attached at about its centre. A slip- ping noose, made from strong horse hair, or piece of fine wire about two feet long, should now be fastened to the string about two inches above the catch. Having the switch thus prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground at the place selected for the trap. When this is done, another small flexi- ble twig about a foot in length should cut, and being sharp- ened at both ends, should be inserted in the ground in the form of an arch {c), at about three feet distant from the spring, and having its broad side toward it. Insert the notch of the spreader exactly under the top of the arc, and note the spot where the curved end of the former touches the ground. At this point a peg (d) should be driven leaving a projecting por- tion of about two inches. The pieces are now ready to be 6o SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. adjusted. Pass the curved end of the spreader over the peg, bringing the notched end beneath the arc with tlie notch up- permost. Draw down the catch piece, and pass it beneath the arc from the opposite side letting the bevelled end catch in the notch in the spreader, the other end resting against the upper part of the arc. Arrange the slipping noose over the spreader as our drawing indicates, bringing it inside the peg, as there shown, as otherv/ise it w^ould catch upon it when the snare is sprung. Strew the bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the like, inside the spreader, and all is ready. Presently a little bird is seen to settle on the ground in the neighborhood of the trap ; he spies the bait and hopping towards it, gradually makes bold enough to alight upon the spreader, which by his weight immediately falls, the catch is released, the switch flies up, and the unlucky bird dangles in the air by the legs. If the trapper is near he can easily release the struggHng creature before it is at all injured, otherwise it will flutter itself into a speedy death. THE IMPROVED SPRINGIE. The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the last mentioned trap, whereby it can be used for the capture of larger game, and with most excellent success. In place of the " spreader " a crotched stick is used, the crotch of which cat_hes around the peg, the other end being supplied with a notch as in the case of the spreader. On the up- per side of this stick a small pasteboard platform is tacked, over which and be- neath which the bait \M-I?'S«ii^^^«^'i^^'^2^v^^^ ^ is thrown. Instead -^X5s^^^:;f'^7^ of the arc, a stout " " crotch stick is sub- stituted. The noose should be at least ten inches in diameter and constructed of sucker wire. It should be arranged on the ground around the bait and inside of the peg. When the snare is set, the crotched end of the bait stick v/ill thus rest near the earth, the notched end only being lifted in order to reach the catch piece. It is well to insert a few small sticks inside the edge of the noose in order to keep it in correct posi- tion. If properly set, the quail or partridge in approaching the THE PLATFORM SNARE!. 61 trap will have to step inside the noose in order to reach the bait, and while thus regahng itself with a choice meal of oats, berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon the bait stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus set the catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp from which he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual snare ; but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and thus torturing them to death, it is to be deprecated. We would recommend in preference, those varieties already described as being fully as successful, and far less cruel. They effect almost instant death, either by broken necks or strangulation, and are in this regard among the most humane traps on record. THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE. For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps which can comjDare with this variety, although it is somewhat similar to those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. The trap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three inches long, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout -crotcii of the proportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at which will make the setting too clear to need description. Be careful that the bait stick is sety?//^ and rests just beneath the tip of the catch- piece so that a mere touch on the bait will release it. Arrange the noose as in the instance last de- -^ ■ -^^ scribed, and bait either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbin of corn, as our accompanymg cut indicates. Always remembering that the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birds to si^ryinside of it in order to reach the bait. THE PLATFORM SNARE. This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game trap, and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab or light board about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. Having selected the spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff 62 SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. switch abouc five feet in length, and having sharpened the larg- er end to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a slanting direction as our drawing il- lustrates. Next bend down the tip of the sapling, and resting one end of the board on the ground, catch the tip of the switch against the other end, as our illustration al- so shows. A little experimenting will soon determine the rignt place for the board, after which two pegs should be driven in the ground at its edge to hold it against the pressure on the opposite end. This being done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch, after which the pen is the only thing required. This should be built of simple little twigs arranged around three sides of the board, leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower the switch and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch the tip of the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose over the platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has been constructed properly and set " fine " it will take but a very shght weight on the platform to lower it from its bearing, the weight of an ordinary bird being sufficient, and tlie springer thus released will fly forward either catching its victim by the neck or legs, as the case may be. It may sometimes be found necessary to cut a slight notch in the end of the springer to receive the board, but in every case it should be tried several times in order to be sure that it works sensitively. BOOK III. TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. MONG the following will be found the various net and cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, be- sides several other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc., many of which are original with the author of this work and appear in the present volume for the -first time in book form, Commonest among bird-catching ma- chines, is the well known invention of THE SIEVE TRAP. This device certainly possesses one great advantage : — // is not complicated. Any' one possessed of a sieve and a piece of string can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided he has patience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost sure to be rewarded for his pains, — if he wait long enough. This of course depends upon circumstances : when the birds are plenty and are not shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at once in a very few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient waiting is unrewarded. The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus propped in position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or thread is attached and the same carried to some near place of concealment, when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch for his ''little bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs, seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoying their repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners. The sieve maybe arranged with a spindle as described for the coop trap, page ( (:^ ), and may thus be left to take care of 66 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. itself. Where the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former method answers the purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting is likely to ensue the self-acting trap is better. THE BRICK TRAP. This is a very old invention, and has always Dcen one of the three or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publi- cation in all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers. Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in our engraving, letting them rest on their narrow sides. If prop- erly arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as large as the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of the shape shown in the separate drawing (^) having a small piece cut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. Next cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointed at each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be driven into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from either of the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground. The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of the forked twig over the top of the plug, with the forks point- ing forward, or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. The pointed stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end of the fork, over the plug, and the other beneath the fifth brick, which should be rested upon it. The drawing {b) clearly shows the arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or other similar substances, should then be - scattered on the irround on the inside of the inclosure. When THE COOP TRAP. 67 the bird flies to the trap he will generally alight on the forked twig, which by his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, thus letting fall the sustained brick. It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmost brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely ^'^ ^jr^- cover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual little contrivance, and oan be made with a i?ox instead of bricks, if desired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top brick, and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks further apart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the captive bird. THE COOP TRAP. This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappers throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims without harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilation for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate is most commonly employed on account of its simplicity and easy manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of carrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in a very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use of the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a few yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five inches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as our engraving (d) indicates. Having these, the young trapper starts out with material sufficient 68 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. for several coops, and if he is smart will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in a forenoon. In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot come on the inside as our illustration {a) explains and leaving a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. This forms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs of about the same thickness, and from them select two more cor- responding in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coop on the ground, and collected the strings inside proceed to lay the two selected sticks across the ends of the THE COOP TRAP. 69 Uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two. Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut and laid across the ends of tlie last two, and directly above the second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks •should be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a little inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thus forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving presents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two sticks cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous, the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozen sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into the opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting each one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the strings loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed to build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced to only four or five inches across. The square board will now come into play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centre and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking care that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its side, as other- wise it would be likely to crack froni the pressure that is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between the strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened and the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown at {b). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which v/ill last for many seasons. To set the affair it is necessary to cut three sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The prop piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from the tip to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked twig of the same length : the bait jMece is quite similar to the latter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to receive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of these twigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice in searching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise up one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the short arm of the yo TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of the coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the bait stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and pushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch of the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, ^'nannie berries" or the like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground directly beneath and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fall over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to fmd two or even three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and after the first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselves to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally as if they had been brought up to it. The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement original with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circular hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle catches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the bait stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop. When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls ; but experience has shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders, but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limping to regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will be seen that the whole body of the bird must be beneath the coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly set it is absolute- ly certain to secure its victim. The author can recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that any one giving both methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless in com- parison. THE BAT FOWLING NET. With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, but so far as we know it has not been utilized to any great extent in this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern, and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are often secured. THE BAT FOWLING NET. 71 Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may be constructed as follows : Procure two light flexible poles, about eight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached, and the same secured to the middle of the pole, having drawn down the tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent ends should now be attached together by a hinge of leather. A piece of mosquito net- ting is next in order, and it should be of such a size as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seen in the illustration — the bottom edge being turned up into a bag, about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete, and is used as follows : Three persons are generally required, and a dark night is chosen. Hay stacks, ever- greens, and thick bushes offer a favorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that they are sought by the bird-hunters. A breezy night is preferable, as the birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusual sounds. Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holds the light, which is generally a dark lantern, another takes the net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to beat the bushes. The net is first held upright about a foot from the bush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is then moderately beaten, and the birds affrighted and bewildered fly against the net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus captured, and when a full roost can be discovered a large number may be taken in a single night. The lantern should be closed while not in actual use, and everything should be done as quietly as possible. The dark lantern in itself is useful without the net. The light often so bewilders the bird that it flies directly in the face of the lantern and flutters to the ground, where it may be easily taken with the hand. . 6 72 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. THE CLAP NET. In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a common resource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. It may be called a " decoy " trap, from the fact that " call birds ' ' are generally used in connection with it. They are placed at distances around the trap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. These birds are especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamed bird that chirps will attract its mates from the near neighborhood, and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the '^decoys" are entirely dispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. This will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a ^' decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommend the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection of mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers, with the use of this little whistle, is something surprising. d. Draw roj)C. ■zz^ 1. Loop, ssss. 3iaK.^6 rrrr, tstay-ropcs. No matter what the species of bird — whether crow, bobolink* thrush or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to deceive the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds themselves. Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro may soon learn to use the whistle to good advantage. The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance — so large that several hundred pigeons are often caught at once. It is "sprung" by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching for the game. The net is generally constructed as follows, and may be made smaller if desired : — THE CLAP NET. 73 Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about fifteen feet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden rods one inch in thickness and five feet in length are next required. These may be constructed of pine, ash, or any other light wood, and one should be securely whipped to each end of the netting. Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slate pencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece one inch from the tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side of the net. The other extremities of the four poles should be supplied, each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in order — one of which is shown separate at (P). It should be about eight inches in length, and three inches in width, and an inch in thickness, and sharpened to a point at one end. The other end should be supplied with a notch two inches in depth and of such a width as will easily secure the perforated end of one of the poles already described. By the use of the gimlet or a red-hot nail, a hole should now be bored through the side of every peg across the centre of the notch for the reception of a wire pin or smooth nail. The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trap- per may thus easily carry them to his selected trapping ground. This should be smooth and free from stones and irregularities. Unroll the nets and spread them flatly on the ground, as seen in the illustration. Let the perforated ends of the poles be inner- most, and allow a space of six feet between the inner edges of the nets. Draw the net flatly on the ground, and drive one of the notched pegs at each of the inside corners, securing the poles into the slots by the aid of the wire pins or nails. Next cut four stakes eight or ten inches long. The places for these may be seen by a look at our engraving. ^= Each one should be inserted Jive fee^ distant from the notched peg, and exactly on a line with the tftside edge of the net — one for each corner. They should slant from the net in every case. To each one of these stakes a stay-rope should be secured, and the other end passed through the screw eye of the nearest pole, drawing the string tightly, so as to stretch the net perfectly square. Next, take a piece of cord, about twenty fcet^in length, and fasten it across the ends of the net into the screw eyes in the poles. This is the loop to which the draw-string is attached, and either end of the net may be chosen for this purpose. To this loop, and a little one side of the middle^ the draw-string should be fastened. If secured exactly in the middlcof the loop, the two nets will strike when the draw-rope is pulled, whereas when adjusted 74- TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. a little to one side, the nearest net will move a trifle faster than the other, and they will overlap neatly and without striking — completely covering the ground between them. When the trap is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelter where the bird-catcher may secrete himself from view. Spread- ing the bait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his call birds at the proper distances, he awaits his opportunity of springing his nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is dotted with his game, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are secured. Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way. The " bird whistle," already alluded to, is often used with good effect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such a proximity to the net as will enable them to spy the bait, after which their capture is easily effected. THE BIRD WHISTLE. This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearly shown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows : First, pro- cure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circular piece one inch and a quarter in diameter. Through the centre of this disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. A semi-circular piece of tin is next required. It should be of the shape of an arc, as seen in our illustration ; its width across the ends being about three-quarters of an inch, and its entire length being pierced with a row of fine holes. Next pro- cure a piece of thin sheet India rubber or gold beater's skin. Cut a strip about an inch in length by half an inch in width, and lay one of its long edges directly across the opening in the leather disc. Fold the leather in half (over the rubber), and draw the latter tightly. Next lay on the arc of tin in the position shown in the illustra- tion, and by the aid of a fme needle and thread sew it through the holes, including both leather and rubber in the stitches. When this is done, the whistle is complete. If the gold beater's skin is not attainable, a good substitute may be found in the thin outer membrane of the leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped away. THE WILD GOOSE TRAi . 75 To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, till side up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the front. When once wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and by skilful blowing, it can be made to send forth a most sur- prising variety of sounds. The quack of the duck and the song of the thrush may be made to follow each other in a single breath, and the squeal of a pig or the neigh of a horse are equally within its scope. In short, there is scarcely any animal, whether bird or quadruped, the cry of which may not be easily imitated by a skilful use of the prairie whistle, or, indeed, as it might with propriety be called, the " menagerie whistle." THE WILD GOOSE TRAP. In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and ptarmigan flock in immense numxbers, this trap is commonly util- ized. It consists merely of a large net fifty feet in length, and fifteen in width, arranged on a framevvrork, and propped in a slanting position by two poles, after the manner of the sieve trap. It is generally set on the ice ; and the trapper, after attaching his strings to the props, and sprinkling his bait at the foot of the net, retires to a distance to await his chances. Tame geese are often used as decoys, and sometimes the bird whistle already described is used for the same purpose. For the capture of the ptarmigan, the bait consists of a heap of gravel. It is hard to imagine a less tempting allurement, but, as the food of the birds during the winter is sapless and hard, it becomes necessary for them to swallow a considerable amount of gravel to promote digestion. The great depth of the snow renders this commodity very scarce during the winter season ; and the Indians, taking advantage of this fact, succeed in cap- turing immense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that simple allurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile of snow, placed under the centre of the net, and the draw-string is carried to some neighboring shrubbery or place of conceal- ment, where the trapper can always get at it without being seen by the birds under the net. When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into the adjacent woods and willows, and drive their game toward the nets. This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner do the birds come in sight of the heap of gravel, than they fly tov/ards it en masse, and the ground beneath the net is soon 76 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. covered with the hungry game. The hunter then goes to the end of the line, and, with a sudden pull, hauls down the stakes : the net falls over the birds, and they are prisoners. Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single sweep of the net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be constructed on a reduced scale for smaller birds, if de- sired. THE TRAP CAGE. Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and most universal trap ; and, where a decoy bird is used, it is particularly successful. The cage is arranged in two compart- THE TRAP CAGE. 77 ments, one above the other, — the lower one being occupied by the call-birds . The making of the cage requires consider- able ingenuity and much patience ; and, for the benefit of those who may desire to exercise that patient ingenuity, we will sub- join a few hints, which may help them along in their efforts. For an ordinary cage, the height should be about one foot, the broad sides the same, and the top and other two sides eight inches. First cut four corner uprights. These should be three-quarters of an inch square, and one foot in length. Next cut a bottom board of pine, twelve inches by eight inches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners, cut a small cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch square, thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive the ends of the uprights, as seen at (a). Before adjusting these pieces, the four sides of the boards should be pierced with small holes, as is also shown in the diagram (a). These may be punched with a brad-awl, and should be about half an inch apart, and three-eighths of an inch from the edge of the board. Each one of the uprights may then be secured in place by two long brads, one being hammered each way into each side of the notch. Next proceed to cut four more of the square sticks. Two of these should be one foot in length, and the remaining two eight inches. The corners orf these should now be neatly bevelled off, so as to fit after the manner of a picture-frame. They should then be attached to 78 TRAPS FOR FEATHERr:) GAME. the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner of each, as seen at {b), the dotted Hues indicating the end of the upright beneath. These sticks should Hkewise be pierced with holes to correspond with those in the bottom board, and running up and down in the direction of the wires. The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of these should be ten and a half inches in length, and the other two six and a-half, and the ends should be perfectly smooth. These should now be punched with holes cor- responding with those above, after which they may be inserted between the uprights as. seen in the engraving, and secured by a brad at each end. The trap door is shown separate at {c). The side sticks should be eight inches in length, and one-half an inch square, and the top and bottom sticks five inches in length. They should be set in between the side sticks, and the lower one should be secured about half an inch above the lower ends of the uprights, as seen in the illustration. The holes should be made in the side pieces, and the wire run across from side to side, as shown. Annealed iron, or copper wire is best for this purpose. The door should now be pivoted or hinged at the top of the cage, between the long sides, in such a position as that the top end shall rest on one of the narrow upper edges of the cage. A stiff wire should be used for the hinge, being passed through the top pieces of the cage into the lower ends of the door pieces. The cage may now be wired throughout. This is an easy matter, if the holes are properly made. About thirty yards of the wire will be required : iron wire is generally used. It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should work easily. Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom board through one of the holes next to the corner. Pass the v/ire upward, through the centre braces, again upward through the top piece and across to the opposite broad side and corre- sponding hole. From this point it should pass dowmwards, through centre brace, and again through the bottom. Draw the wire tightly and passing it upward through the hole next to it, bring it over the top of the cage and around again to the bot- tom edge from which it started. Continue thus until the hinge of the door is reached ; after which the wire should be passed up and down on the same side and thus carried around the small end of the cage until it finally meets at the door hinge on the opposite side. The two halves of the cage should now be sepa- rated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main illustration. This THE TRAP, CAGE. ^9 may be accomplished either by passing the wire from side to side, around the base of each upright wire, or an additional horizontal row of holes below the others may be punched for the purpose. The door through which the call-bird is intro- duced should next be made in the bottom section. There are two ways of doing this : one method consists in sawing a hole three inches square in the bottom board of the cage ; and a cover consisting of a piece of tin is made to slide beneath the heads of four tacks, two of which are placed on each side of the opening. This form of door is perhaps the simplest of the two. The other is shown separate at (/"), together with its mode of attach- ment. It consists of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inch square, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two inches in length. These are arranged into a square framework by a board in each corner. Four holes are to be pierced in each side piece, at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door should then be wired as directed for the cage. The lowest hole on each side should be left open for a separate piece of wire. The cage should now receive attention. The broad side is generally selected for the door. Find the seven centre wires and connect them across the middle by another horizontal bit of wire. This may be easily done with a pair of pincers, by com- pressing a loop at each end of the wire around the two which run perpendicularly at its ends. When this is performed the five intermediate wires should be cut off about a quarter of an inch below the horizontal wire, and the projecting tips looped back over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers. The lower parts of the upright wires may now be cut off close to the board. We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire through the holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loop the ends of the projecting wire loosely around the upright wires at each side. This will allow the door to sh'de easily up and down. Another wire should now be interlaced downwards through the centre of the door, and bent mto a nng at the top. Let the door rest on the bottom of the cage, and, while in this position, adjust the ring at the top around the central wire directly behind it. The door is then complete, and, if properly made, will look neat and work easily. The " trap " at the top of the cage is next in order. To complete this it is first necessary to interweave a stiff vfiro. loop, as seen at {d). The loop should extend on the inside of the lower piece of the door and about two inches below it. The 5v> TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. Spring ^o\yer consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire, inter- woven between the wires of the top of the cage, and those of the door, while the latter is shut. The force of this will be sufficient to bring down the door with a snap ; and for further security a catch, such as is described in page {^^\ may be added if desired. The spindle is next required. This is shown at {g), and consists of a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and notched at each end. In setting the trap, the door should be raised as seen in the main illustration. One of tde notches in the spindle should now be caught beneath the loop and the other around one of the central wires in the end of the cage. The bait, consisting of a berry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be either fastened to the spindle or placed beneath on the wires. The call-bird having been introduced, the trap may now be left to itself. If the call-bird is well trained it will not be many minutes before the birds of the neighborhood will be attracted to the spot by its cries. Ere long one less cautious than the rest will be seen to perch upon the top of the cage. He soon discovers the bait, and alighting upon the perch, throws it asunder, and in an instant the trap door closes over its captive. The cage is sometimes constructed double, having two compart- ments beneath for call-birds, and two traps above, in general resembling two of the single traps placed side by side. The decoy bird is not an absolute necessity to the success of the trap. Many birds are caught simply by the bait alone. The trap cage, when constructed on a larger scale, is often success- fully employed in the capture of the owl. In this case it is baited with a live mouse or bird, and set during the evening in a conspicuous place. A trap working on this principle, being especially adapted to the capture of the owl, wiU be noticed hereafter. THE SPRING N^T TRAP. Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illus- tration preserkj^ one of the prettiest bird traps on record, and may be made in the following manner, and by frequently refer- ring to the picture, our explanation will be easily understood. The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about fifteen inches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of about two inches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same THE SPRING NET TRAP. 8l height, leavino^ a space of about three-quarters of an inch be- tween them all round. A platform should now be made. Let it be of such a size that it will just fit in the interior box, with a very slight space all around its edge. It should then be pivot- ed in the upper part of this box by two small slender pins, one being driven through into its edge, at the centre of each end. Let it be sensitively poised. The next thing to be done, is to arrange the spindle and catch. The latter should consist of a tack or small bit of wood fastened on the middle of the platform, about an inch from one end, as seen both in the main illustra- tion and in the diagram at {b). The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured with a leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, directly op- posite the catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely hold itself beneath the catch. When thus in its position, two small plugs should next be driven into the edge of the inner box, one on each side of thei spindle, thus holding it in place. A glance at our illustration makes this clear. The netting and " hoop " are next in order. The hoop should consist of an iron wire of the diameter of common telegraph wire. For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty- eight inches will be found to answer. Before making the hoop, however, its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, or staples of bent wire should be driven into the bottom of the box between the two walls, one in the exact middle of each side. The iron wire should now be bent so as to fit round and settle into the space between the boxes, letting each end rest 82 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. over the screws in the bottom. It will be found that there will be enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with the pin- cers. These loops should be passed through the screws or rings already inserted, and then pinched together ; the hinge v/ill thus be made, and will appear as at {c). If properly done, they should allow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box to the other, and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge should prove too complicated for our young readers, they may resort to another method, which, although not so durable, will answer very well. In this case the wire will only need to reach to the exact middle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a length of twenty-six inches will be exactly right. On each end a short loop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now fastening these loops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in the place of screws, it will form a hinge v/hich will answer the purpose of the more complicated one. The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if this cannot be had, any thin cloth maybe substituted. It should be sewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, with the hoops resting in its groove, the netting should be drawn over the platform, and tacked to the bottom of the groove, on its remaining half. It should rest loosely over the platform to allow plenty of space for the bird. But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have mentioned the use of elastics in other varieties : they are of equal use here, and should be attached to the hoop as seen at (a) in the section drawing, the remaining ends being fastened to the bottom of the groove, as there indicated. These elastics should be placed on both sides, and stretched to such a tension as will draw the hoop quickly from one side to the other. It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to the opposite end, tucking the netting into the groove ; lower the spindle over it, resting it between the two little plugs, and securing its end beneath the catch on the platform. If the bait, A SIMPLER NET TRAP. 83 consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be now sprinkled on the platform, the trap is ready for its feathered victim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on either side of this poised platform will throw the catch from the end of the spindle, and release the hoop and the platform in an in- stant is covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky little bird may have chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty little trap, and will well repay the trouble of making it. A SIMPLER NET TRAP. Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of bird traps of various kinds, but often the ingenuity has been misplaced, and the result has been so complicated as to mar its usefulness for practical purposes. The examples of net traps presented in this volume are so simple that the merest tyro can readily understand them. What can be more so than the pres- ent example, and yet it is as sure in its effect, and stcrer than those other varieties of more complicated construction. One necessary element in a trap of any kind is, that the bearings are slight and that they spring easily. To obtain this requisite it is necessary to overcome friction as much as possible, using only a small number of pieces, and having as few joints and hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The present variety possesses advantages on this account. It is constructed some- what on the principle of the ordinary steel t^ap, and also re- sembles in other respects the one we have just described, al- though much simpler. We give only a section drawing, as this will be sufficient. The long side of a flat board of about eight by sixteen inches is shown at {a) ; {b) indicates the loops of a bent wire, to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just de- 84 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. scribed, the loops being fastened to the board as in the other variety ; {g) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in length and half an inch in width. It should be tacked on to the middle of the one end of the board and project about a half inch above the surface. To the top of this the spindle [c) should be attached by a leather or staple hinge. The spindle should be of light pine, five inches in length and a quarter of an inch square, bevelled ; on the under side of one end {d) is the catch or bait piece, and should be whittled out of a shingle or pine stick of the shape shown, the width being about a half an inch or less. One side should be supphed with a slight notch for the reception of the spindle, and the other should project out two or three inches, being covered on the top with a little platform of pasteboard, tin, or thin wood either glued or tacked in place. To attach this piece to the main board, two small wire staples may be used, one being inserted into the bottom end of the piece and the other being hooked through it, and afterward tacked to the bottom of the trap, thus forming a loop hinge. Another method is to make a hole through the lower tip of the bait piece by the aid of a red-hot wire, as seen at (^), afterwards inserting a pin and overlapping its ends with two staples driven into the bottom board, as shown at {e). In our last mentioned net trap the spring power con- sisted of rubber elastic, and the same may be used in this case, if desired, but by way of variety we here introduce another form of spring which may be successfully employed in the con- struction of traps of various kinds. It is shown at {o) and con- sists merely of a piece of tempered hoop iron, so bent as to act with an upward pressure. It should be about three inches long by half an inch wide. About three-quarters of an inch should be allowed for the two screws by which it is to be attached to the board. The rest should be bent upward and thus tempered by first heating almost to redness, and then cooling in cold water. One of these springs should be fastened to the board on each side, directly under the wire and quite near the hinge, in the position shown in the main drawing. Now draw back the net, lower the spindle and catch its extremity in the notch of the bait piece, and the trap is set as in our illustration. Sprinkle the bait on the platform, and lay the machine on the ground where birds are known to frequent ; and it is only a matter of a few hours or perhaps minutes, before it will prove its efficacy. In order to prevent the bird from raising the wire and there bv THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP. 85 escaping, it is well to fasten a little tin catch (/) at the end of the board. This will spring over the wire and hold it in its place. THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP. The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, somewhat similar to the one we have just described, in its man- ner of working. Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one to the edge of the other, as represented in our engraving. A stout wire is the next requisite. It should he about thirty inches long, and bent either into a curve or into two corners, making three equal sides. Each end of the wire should then be bent into a very small loop for the hinge. On to this wire the net- ting should then be secured as in the two previous examples, after which the ends of the wire may be tied with string or hinged on wire staples into the angle of the two boards, as seen in our illustration. Allow the wire now to lie flat on the bottom board, and then proceed to tack the netting around the edges of the upright board. Two elastics should next be fastened to the wire on each side, securing their loose ends to the bottom of the trap. They should be tightly drawn so as to bring the wire down with a snap. The spindle of this trap should be about eight or nine inches long, square and slender, — the lower end being flattened, and the upper end secured to the top edge of the upright board by a hinge of leather or string. An excellent hinge may be made with a piece of leather an inch and a half long, by half an inch in width, one half of the length being tied around the end of the spindle, and the other tacked on to the upper edge of the board. The platform is given by itself at (a) in the same picture. It may be made of very thin wood — cigar box wood, for instance, or even thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The piece which is hinged into the angle of the boards should be about three inches in length ; the platform piece ought not to be more than four inches square, and the upright piece only long enough to reach the tip of the spindle when the platform is raised, as shown in our engraving. The hinge piece should be cut to an edge on that end where the leath'er is fastened, the opposite end being bevelled off in order that the platform may rest and be tacked or glued firmly upon it. The diagram (a) will make this all very clear. When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the S6 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible, and lower the spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright stick on the platform. If the trap is properly constructed, the pressure of the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up as seen in our illustration. The upright stick on the back of the platform should never be more than an inch and a half from the back of the trap. If need be, a slight notch may be made in the end of the spindle and a small tack driven into the back of the upright stick to correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under the head of the tack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the right position. But it should be carefully tested before setting, to see that it springs easily. When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a little also on the bottom of the trap and on the ground directly around it. The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, and alighting on the trap are misled, and the slightest peck or pressure on the platform where the bait is most bounteously spread brings down the wire and net with a snajf, and the little creature is secured without harm. Our next illustration shows another method of constructing the platform. It should be about three or four inches square. THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP. 87 and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece should be fastened. This piece, as will be seen in our engrav- ing, should be cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of being secured to the platform by two brads, the tip being cut to a point. The total length of this piece should not be over two and a half inches. When tacked in place, a third brad should be inserted between the other two and exactly in the centre of the side of the platform. This latter brad is to act as the pivot, or hinge, and should project about a quarter of an inch, as seen at {a). On the opposite edge of the platform another larger brad should be driven, having its end filed to a blunt point, as in {b). If the filing would be too tedious, a plug of hard wood of the required shape would answer every purpose. The upright props which sup- port the platform should be cut of thin wood . Let one be an inch and a half long and half an inch wide, the other being an inch, in length. Each should have one end whittled to a point, which wn'll admit of its being inserted in a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap. These gimlet holes should be made at least half an inch in depth. Make the first at about an inch or so from the back of the trap. Into this insert the shorter pieces, broadside front. Lay the pivot brad of the platform on the top of this piece and insert over it a small wire staple, as seen at {a). Elevate the platform evenly and determine the spot for the other gimlet hole, which should be directly beneath the point of the filed brad. Be sure that it is in the middle of the board, so that the platform may set squarely, and be perfectly parallel with the sides. Insert the remaining prop in its place, and the platform is complete. The overhanging spindle now requires a little attention. This should be whittled off on each side, bringing it to a point at the tip. On each side of the spindle a long plug should then be driven into the back piece, as our illustration shows. These should be far enough apart to allow the spindle to pass easily between them. The setting of the trap is plainly shown in our 7 Method 2. 88 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is caught finely on the tip of the catch-piece. The blunt point at the opposite end of the platform should have a slight hollow made for it in the prop against which it presses. If the platform be now strewn with bait, the little machine is ready. It is cer- tainly very simple and will be found very effective. THE BOX OWL TRAP. The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly an odd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance which has been successfully used for that purpose. The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in our engraving, and well ventilated with holes, as indicated. (This ventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in all traps.) Having made or selected a suitable box — say, four- teen or more inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a hinge~ — proceed to fasten on the outside of the lid a loop of stiff wire, bent in the shape shown at {e\ This may be fastened to the cover by means of small staples, or even tacks, and should project over the edge about two inches. When this is done, the lid should be raised to the angle shown in our illustration, and the spot where the end of the wire loop touches the back of the box should be marked and a slit cut tlirough the wood at this ]:)lace, large enough for the angle of the loop to pass through. Two elastics should now be fastened to the inside of the box, being secured to the bottom at the side, and the other to the edge of the cover, as seen in the illustration. They should be sufficiently strong to draw down the cover quickly. The perch, or spindle, should consist of a light stick of wood, as shown at (^,) one end provided with a slight notch, and the other fastened to the inside of the front of the box by a string or leather hinge, (^,) keeping the notch on the 7ipper side of the stick. It will be now seen that by opening the cover, until the loop enters through the groove, and by then hooking the notch in the spin- dle nnder the loop as seen at (^) the trap will be set, and if prop- erly done it will be found that avery slight weight on the spindle will set it free from the loop and let the cover down with swiftness. To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be applied to the front edge of the box, as shown in the illustra- tion. A piece of tin two inches in length by a half an inch in breadth will answer for this purpose. One end should be bent BIRD AND WILD FOWL TRAPS. 89 down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other at- tached by two tacks, to the edge of the box, in the position shown in the cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the escape of whatever bird, large or small, the trap may chance to secure. It is a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the elastics might be torn asunder and the lid thereby easily raised. This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is par- ticularly designed for a dirdtra.p, it is well to sprinkle the bot- tom of the box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as crickets, grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very apt to jump out, and it may be well to fasten one or two of them to the bot- tom with a pin through the body, just behind the head. There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively on insects ; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, there is scarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A bird on approaching this trap will almost irresistibly alight on the perch, and if not 2X firsts it is generally sure to do so before long.^ If desired, a pasteboard platform may be fastened on the go TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered upon it. This will act in the same manner, and might, perhaps, be a trifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experi- ment upon. We have given this variety the name of " owl-trap," because it may be used with success in this direction. When set for this purpose, it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or bird, either fastened to the bottom of the trap, if a bird, or set in with the trap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the preferable bait, as it may be easily fastened to the bottom of the box by a string, and as a general thing is more sure to attract the attention of the owl by its chirping. The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the neighborhood where the owls in the night are heard to " hoot." The chances are that the box will contain an owl on the follow- ing morning. This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if our young reader could only catch one, and find rats and mice enough to keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish the number of rats in his neighborhood, but he would realize a great deal of enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of the bird. Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, raw meat will answer equally well. The bird should either be kept in a cage or inclosure and in the latter case, its wings will re- quire to be clipped. THE BOX BIRD TRAP. Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the foregoing. Our engraving represents the arrangement of the parts as the trap appears when set. The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar box has been used with excellent success, and for small birds is just the thing. The cover of the box in any case should work on a hinge of some sort. The trap is easily made. The first thing to be done is to cut an upright slot, about two inches in length, through the centre of the backboard, commencing at the upper edge. To the inside centre edge of the cover a small square strap, about four inches in length, should then be se- cured. It should be so adjusted as that one-half shall project to- ward the inside of the box, as seen in the illustration, and at the same time pass easily through the slot beneath where the cover THE PENDENT BOX TRAP. 91 is closed. The lid should now be supplied with elastics as de- scribed in the foregoing. Next in order comes the bait stick. Its shape is clearly shown in our illustration, and it may be either cut in one piece or consist of two parts joined together at the angle. To the long arm the bait should be attached and the upright portion should be just long enough to suspend the cover in a position on a line with the top of the box. The trap may now be set, as seen in our illustration, and should be sup- plied with the necessary tin catch, described in the foregoing. THE PENDENT BOX TRAP. This invention is original with the author of this work, and when properly made and set will prove an excellent device for the capture of small birds. The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown in our illustration. A thin wooden box is the first requisite, it should be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and sup- plied with a close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides should then be perforated with a few auger holes for purposes of ventilation. Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached to the cover and box, one on each side, as shown at (a.) They should be drawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover firmly against the box. The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick, which differs in construction from any other described in this book. It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven 92 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. inches or so in length, depending of course upon the size of the box. It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat cut, the longer part being six inches in length; This piece should be attached to the back board of the box by a small string and a tack, as shown at (c), its end being bluntly pointed. Its attachment should be about five inches above the bottom board, and in the exact centre of the width of the back. Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a berry or other fruit, should be secured, and the further extremity of the stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. The trap is now easily set. Raise the lid and lift the long stick to the position given in the illustration. Adjust the flat end of the bait stick ag-inst that of the former, and allow the pressure of the lid to bear against the blunt point of the short stick at (d), as shown in the illustration, a straight dent being made in the cover to receive it, as also in the back of the box for the other piece. If properly constructed, this pressure will be sufficient to hold the sticks end to end, ar^ our engraving THE HAWK TRAP. 93 represents, and the trap is thus set. The slightest weight on the false perch thus made will throw the parts asunder, and the cover closes with a snap. The greatest difficulties in constructing the trap will be founa in the bearings of the ]m\t sticks (d), the ends of which must be perfectly flat and join snugly, in order to hold them- selves together. The box may now be suspended in a tree by the aid of a string at the top. The first bird that makes bold enough to-alight on the perch is a sure captive, and is secured without harm. If desired, the elastic may be attached to the inside of the cover, extending to the back of the box, as seen in the initial at the head of this chapter. If the elastic in any event shows tendencies toward relaxing, the tin catch de- scribed on page SS should be adjusted to the lower edge of the box to insure capture. THE HAWK TRAP. Our illustration represents a hawk in a sad plight. The memory of a recent feast has attracted it to the scene of many of 94 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. its depredations : but the ingenious farmer has at last outwitted his feathered foe and brought its sanguinary exploits to a timely end. This trap is a "Yankee " invention and has been used with great success in many instances where the hawk has become a scourge to the poultry yard. The contrivance is clearly shown in an illustration, consisting merely of a piece of plank two feet square, set with stiff perpendicular pointed wires. This affair was set on the ground in a conspicuous place, the board covered with grass, and the nice fat Poland hen which was tied to the centre proved a morsel too tempting for the hawk to resist. Hence the " fell swoop " and the fatal conse- quences depicted in our illustration. The owl has also been successfully captured by the same device. THE WILD DUCK NET. Following will be found two examples of traps in very com- mon use for the capture of wild ducks, and in the region of Chesapeake bay, immense numbers of the game are annually taken by their aid. The first is the well known net trap, so extensively used in nearly all countries, both for the capture of various kinds of fish as well as winged game. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the construction of the net, and an elaborate description is almost superfluous. It consists of a graduated series of hoops covered by a net work. From each a converging net extends backward ending in a smaller hoop which is held in position by cords extending therefrom to the THE HOOK TRAP. 95 next larger hoop. The depth of these converging nets should extend backward about three or four feet from the large hoop, and the distance between these latter should be about five feet. The length of the net should be about twenty feet, terminating in a " pound " or netted enclosure, as seen in the illustration. The trap maybe set on shore or in the water as seen. " Decoy " birds are generally used, being enclosed in the pound. When set on land the bait consisting of corn or other grain should be spread about the entrance and through the length of the net. It is remarkable that a duck which so easily finds its way within the netted enclosure, should be powerless to make its escape, but such seems to be the fact, and even a single hoop with its reflex net, has been known to secure a number of the game. THE HOOK TRAP Our second example is one which we are almos*. ccmpted to exclude on account of its cruelty, but as our volume is especi- ally devoted to traps of all kinds and as this is a variety in very common use, we feel bound to give it a passing notice. Our illustration fully conveys its painful mode of capture, and a beach at low water is generally the scene of the slaughter. A long stout cord is first stretched across the sand and secured 96 TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. to a peg at each end. To tliis shorter lines are attached at intervals, each one being supplied with a fish hook baited with a piece of the tender rootstock of a certain water reed, of which the ducks are very fond. The main cord and lines are then imbedded in the sand, the various baits only appearing on the surface, and the success of the device is equal to its cruelty. THE "fool's cap" TRAP. Of all oddities of the trap kind, there is, perhaps, no one more novel and comical than the " Fools's Cap " crow-trap, which forms the subject of our present illustration. Crows are by no means casyofcai> ture in any form of trap, and they are generally as coy and as shrcv.'d in their ap- proach to a trap as they are bold in their familiarity and disre- spect for the sombre scarecrows in the corn field. But this simple device will of- ten mislead the smart- est and shrewdest crow, and make a per- fect fool of him, for it is hard to imagine a more ridiculous sight than is fur- nished by the strange antics and evolutions _^ _^ of a crov/thus cmbar- — -'^1 ^'^ -f^"^'" ~ rassedwith his head '''^'^-' imbedded in a cap which he finds impos- sible to remove, and which he in vain endeavors to shake off by all sorts of gymnastic performance. The secret of the little contrivance is easily told. The cap consists of a little cone of stiff paper, about three or four inches in diameter at the opening. This is imbedded in the ground, up to its edge, and a few j^rains of corn are dropped into it. The inside edre of the BIRD LIME. 97 .openinf^ is then smeared with <^/>rt?-///;/^, a substance of which we shall speak hereafter. The crow, on endeavoring to reach the corn, sinks his bill so deep in tlie cone as to bring the gummy substance in contact with the feathers of his head and neck, to which it adheres in spite of all possible efforts on the part of the bird to throw it off. The cones may be made of a brownish-colored paper if they are to be placed in the earth, but of white paper when inserted in the snow. It is an excellent plan to insert a few of these cones in the fresh corn hills at planting season, as the crows are always on the watch at this time, and will be sure to partake of the tempting morsels, not dreaming of the result. The writer has often heard of this ingenious device, and has read of its being successfully employed in many instances, but he has never yet had an opportunity of testing it himself. He will leave it for his readers to experiment upon for themselves. BIRD LIME. This substance so called to which we have above alluded, and which is sold in our bird marts under that name, is a viscid, sticky preparation, closely resembling a very thick and gummy varnish. It is astonishingly " sticky," and the slightest quantity between the fingers will hold them together with remarkable tenacity. What its effect must be on the feathers of a bird can easily be imagined. . This preparation is put up in boxes of different sizes, and may be had from any of the taxidermiiits or bird-fanciers in any of qS traps for feathered game. our large towns or cities. Should a home made article be required, an excellent substitute may be prepared from the inner bark of the "slippery elm." This should be gathered in the spring or early summer, cut into very small pieces or scraped into threads, and boiled in water sufficient to cover them until the pieces are soft and easily mashed. By this time the water will be pretty much boiled down, and the whole mass should then be poured into a mortar and beaten up, adding at the same time a few grains of wheat. When done, the paste thus made may be put into an earthen vessel and kept. When required to be used, it should be melted or softened over the fire, adding goose grease or linseed oil, instead of water. When of the proper consistency it may be spread upon sticks or twigs prepared for it, and which should afterwards be placed in the locality selected for the capture of the birds. An excellent bird-lime may be made also from plain linseed- oil, by boiling it down until it becomes thick and gummy. Thick varnish either plain or mixed with oil, but always free from alcohol, also answers the purpose very well. The limed twigs may be either set in trees or placed on poles and stuck in the ground. If any of our readers chance to become possessed of an owl, they may look forward to grand success with their limed twigs. It is a well known fact in natural history that the owl is the universal enemy of nearly all our smaller birds. And when, as often happens, a swarm of various birds are seen flying frantically from limb to limb, seeming to centre on a particular tree, and filling the air with their loud chirping, it may be safely concluded that some sleepy owl has been surprised in his day- dozing, and is being severely pecked and punished for his nightly depredations. Profiting from this fact, the bird catcher often utilizes the owl with great success. Fastening the bird in the crotch of some tree, he adjusts the limed twigs on all sides, even covering the neighboring branches with the gummy substance. No sooner is the owl spied by one bird than the cry is set up, and a score of foes are soon at hand, ready for battle. One by one they alight on the beguiling twigs, and one by one find themselves held fast. The more they flutter the more powerless they become, and the more securely are they held. In this way many valuable and rare birds are often captured. THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP. 99 THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP. One of the most ingenious uses to which bird lime is said to have been appHed with success, is in the capture of humming- birds. The lime in this instance is made simply by chewing a few grains of wheat in the mouth until a gum is formed. It is said that by spreading this on the inside opening of the long white lily or trumpet-creeper blossom, the capture of a hum- ming-bird is almost certain, and he will never be able to leave the flower after once fairly having entered the opening. There can be no doubt but that this is perfectly practicable, and we recommend it to our readers. The object in making the bird-lime from wheat consists in the fact that this is more easily removed from the feathers than the other kinds. We would not wish our readers to infer from this that a hum- ming-bird might be captured or kept alive, for of all birds, they are the most fragile and delicate, and would die of fright^ if from nothing else. They are chiefly used for ornamental purposes, and may be caught in a variety of ways. A few silk nooses hung about the flowers where the birds are seen to frequent, will sometimes succeed in ensnaring their tiny forms. The blow-gun is often used with good success, and the con- cussion from a gun loaded simply with powder, and aimed in the direction of the bird, will often stun it so that it will fall to the ground. If a strong stream of water be forced upon the little creature, as it is fluttering from flower to flower, the result is the same, as the feathers become so wet that it cannot fly. BOOK IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. THE COMMON BOX TRAP. HE following chapter includes a variety of traps which have not been covered by any of the previous titles. Several novelties are contained in the list, and also a number of well known inventions. There is probably no more familiar example of the trap kind than that of the common wooden box-trap, better known, perhaps, by our country boys as the rabbit-trap. A glance at our il- lustration, will readily bring it to mind, and easily explain its working to those not particularly acquainted with it. These traps maybe made of any size, but, being usually employed in catching rabbits, require to be made quite large. They should be made of hard seasoned wood — oak or chestnut is the best — and of slabs about an inch in thickness. The pieces may be of the following dimensions : let the bottom board be 204-7 in- ; side board, 2oH-9in. ; lid board 19-I-7 in., and the end piece of lid 7 in. square. The tall end piece should be about 16 inches high by 7 broad. Let this be sharpened on the upper end, as seen in the engraving, and furnished with a slight groove on the summit, for the reception of the cord. Now to put the pieces together. Nail the two sides to the edge of the bottom board, and fit in between them the high end piece, securing that also, with nails through the bottom and side boards. Next nail the lid board on to the small, square end piece, and fit the lid thus made neatly into its place. To make the hinge for the lid, two small holes should be bored through the sides of the trap, about four inches from the tall end, and half an inch from the upper edge of each board. Let 8 I04 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. small nails now be driven through these holes into the edge of the lid, and it will be found to work freely upon them. The principal part of the trap is now made, but what remains to be done is of great importance. The ^' spindle " is a ne- cessary feature in nearly all traps, and the box-trap is useless without it. In this case it should consist merely of a round stick of about the thickness of a lead pencil, and we will say, 7 or 8 in. in length. One end should be pointed and the other should have a small notch cut in it, as seen in the separate drawing of the stick. The spindle being ready, we must ^^^^m' have some place to put it. Another hole should be bored through the middle of the high end piece, and about 4 in. from the bottom. This hole should be large enough to allow the spindle to pass easily through it. If our directions have been carefully followed, the result will now show a complete, closefitting trap. In setting the trap there are two methods commonly em- ployed, as shown at a and d. The string, in either case, must be fastened to the end of the lid. In the first instance (a) the lid is raised and made fast by the brace, holding itself beneath the tip of the projecting spindle, and a nail or plug driven into the wood by the side of the hole. COMMON BOX TRAP. 105 Of course, when the spindle is drawn or moved from the inside the brace will be let loose and the lid will drop. In the other method {b) the spindle is longer, and projects several inches on the outside of the hole. The brace is also longer, and catches itself in the notch on the end of the spindle, and another shght notch in the board, a few inches above the hole. When the bait is touched from the inside, the brace easily flies out and the hd falls, securing its victim. Either way is sure to succeed, but if there is any preference it is for the former {a). It is a wise plan to have a few holes through the trap in different places, to allow for ventilation, and it may be found necessary to line the cracks with tin, as sometimes the v^:i>-^mv^^jg^ enclosed creature might otherwise gnaw through and make its escape. If there is danger of the lid not closing tightly when sprung, a stone may be fastened upon it to insure that result. This trap is usually set for rabbits, and these dimensions are especially calculated with that idea. Rabbits abound in all our woods and thickets, and may be attracted by various baits. An apple is most generally used. The box-trap may be made of smaller dimensions, and set in trees for squirrels with very good success. There is still another well known form of this trap represented in the tail piece at the end of this section. The box is first constructed of the shape already given, only having the lid piece io6 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. nailed firmly in the top of the box. The tall end piece is also done away with. The whole thing thus representing a simple oblong box with one end open. Two slender cleats should be nailed on each side of this opening, on the interior of the box, to form a groove into which a square end board may easily slide up and down, the top board being slightly sawn away to receive it. An upright stick should then be erected on the top centre of the box, in the tip of which a straight stick should be pivoted, working easily therein, like the arms of a balance. To one end of this balance, the end board should be adjusted by two screw eyes, and to the other the string with spindle attached. By now lowering the spindle to its place, the further end of the balance will be raised and with it the end board, and on the release of the spindle the board will fall. This plan is quite commonly adopted but we rather prefer the former. But as each has its advantages we present them both. ANOTHER BOX TRAP. This works afterthe manner of the ordinary wire rat-trap ; our illustration explains itself. The box should be of the shape there shown, with one of its end pieces arranged on hinges so as to fall freely. An elastic should be fastened from the inside of this end to the inner surface of the top of the box, to insure its closing. If desired, an elastic may be adjusted at the side as shown in the cut and a catch piece of stout tin should be attached to the bottom of the trap to secure the lid when it falls. A small hole should then be bored in the top, near the further end of the trap, and FIGURE FOUR TRAP. 107 the spindle, having a notch on its upper end, passed through the hole thus made. The top of the spindle is shown at {a). It should be held in its place by a small plug or pin through it, below the surface of the box. A slender stick, long enough to reach and catch beneath the notch in the spindle should now be fastened to the lid and the trap is complete. It may be baited with cheese, bread, and the hke, and if set for squirrels, an apple answers every purpose. When constructed on a larger and heavier scale it may be used for the capture of rabbits and animals of a similar size, but for this purpose the previous variety is preferable THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP. One of the most useful as well as the most ancient mventions in the way of traps is the common Figure Four Trap^ which forms the subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingenious tontrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks. It possesses great advantages in the fact that it maybe used in a variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried by the young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illus- tration shows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight touch at the bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box may be substituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be I08 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at a. b. and c. Of course, there is no regular size for them, as this would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are designed to be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions will answer very well. The sticks should all be square, and about half an inch in thickness. The bait-stick, {a) should be about nine or ten inches in length, one end being pointed and the other furnished with a notch, as indicated. The upright stick, {b) should be a little shorter, one end being whittled to a rather sharp edge. At about three or four inches from the other end, and on the side next to that whittled, a square notch should be cut. This should be about a third of an inch in depth and half an inch in width, being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick without holding it fast. The remaining stick {c) should have a length of about seven or eight inches, one end being whittled, as in the last, to an edge, and the other end furnished with a notch on the same side of the stick. ^^ TL «^ ^ When these are finished, the trap may be set in the followmg manner : Place the upright stick, {b) with its pointed end upper- most. Rest the notch of the slanting stick, {c) on the summit of the upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding the stick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch in the bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and fitting it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be made to catch and hold itself in position. The bait should always project beneath the stone. In case a box is used instead of a stone, the trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge. Where the ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stick on a chip or small fiat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink into the earth by degrees and spring by itself. When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and the bait, generally an apple, or " nub " of corn is seldom more than touched when the stone falls. THE ''DOUBLE ENDER. 109 THE "DOUBLE ENDER." This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a great favorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching. It was constructed of four boards two feet in length by nine inches in breath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form a long square box. Each end was supphed with a heavy lid working on two hinges. To each of these lids a light strip of wood was fastened, the length of each being sufficient to reach nearly to the middle of the top of the box, as seen in the illus- tration. At this point a small auger hole was then made downward through the board. A couple of inches of string was next tied to the tip of each stick and supplied with a large knot at the end. The trap was then set on the simple principle of which there arc so many examples throughout the pages of this work. The .YNfy-"'- knots were lowered through the auger hole and the insertion of the bait stick inside the box held them in place. The edge of the bottom board on each end of the trap should be supplied with a tin catch such as is described on page 88 in order to hold the lid in place after it has fallen. No matter from which end the bait is approached it is no sooner touched than both ends fall and " buiuiy^ " is prisoner. Like many other of our four-footed game, the rabbit manifests a peculiar liking for salt and may be regularly attracted to a given spot by its aid. A salted cotton string is sometimes extended several yards from the trap for the purpose of leading them to it, but this seems a needless precaution, as the rabbit is seldom behindhand in discerning a tempting bait when it is within his reach. no MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. THE SELF SETTING TRAP. One of the oldest known principles ever embodied in the form of a trap is that which forms the subject of the accompanying illustration. It is very simple in construction, sure in its action ; and as its name implies, resets itself after each intruder has been captured. It is well adapted for Rabbits and Coons and when made on a small scale, maybe successfully employed in taking rats and mice. It is also extensively used in the capture of the Mink and Muskrat, being set beneath the water, near the haunts of the animals and weighted by a large stone. Of course the size of the box will be governed by the dimensions of the game for which it is to be set. Its general proportions should resemble those of the illustration, both ends being open. A small gate, consisting of a square piece of wood supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside each opening, so as to work freely and fall easily when raised. The bait is fastened inside at the centre of the box. The animal, in quest of the bait, finds an easy entrance, as the wires lift at a slight pressure, but the exit after the gate has closed is so difficult that escape is almost beyond the question. The wires should be so stiff as to preclude the possibility of them being bent by struggles of the imprisoned creature in his THE DEAD-FALL. Ill efforts to escape, and to insure further strength it is advisable to connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of finer wire, twisted about each. The simultaneous capture of two rabbits in a trap of this kind is a common occurrence. THE DEAD-FALL. In strolling through the woods and on the banks of streams in the country, it is not an uncommon thing to stum- ble against a contrivance resembling in general appearance our next illustration. Throughout New England, the " dead- fall," as this is called, has always been a most popular favorite among trappers, young and old ; and there is really no better rour^h r.nd ready trap for large game. To entrap a fox by any device is no easy matter ; but the writer remembers one case where Reynard was outwitted, and the heavy log of the " dead-fall " put a speedy end to his existence. The trap was set in a locality where the fox had made himself a nuisance by repeated nocturnal invasions among the poultry, and the bait was cleverly calculated to decoy him. A live duck was tied within the pen, and the morsel proved too tempting for him to resist. Thrusting his head beneath the suspended log, in order to reach his prey, he thus threw down the slender framework of support ; and the log, falling across his neck, put him to death. Our illustration gives a very correct idea of the general construction of the " dead-fall," although differing slightly in its mode of setting from that usually employed. 112 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. A pen of rough sticks 13 first constructed, having an open front. A log about seven or eight feet in length, and five or six inches in diameter, should then be procured. An ordin- ary fence rail will answer the purpose very well, although the log is preferable. Its large end should be laid across the front of the pen, and two stout sticks driven into the ground outside of it, leaving room for it to rise and tall easily be- tween them and the pen. a second shorter log being placed on the ground beneath it, as described for the bear- trap, page (17). A look at our illustration fully explains the set- ting of the parts. A forked twig, about a foot in length, an- swers for the bait-stick. The lower end should be pointed, and the fork, with its bait, should incline toward the ground, when set. The upper end should be supplied with a notch, square side down, and directly above the branch which holds the bait. Another straight stick, about fourteen inches in length, should then be cut. Make it quite flat on each end. A small thin stone, chip of wood, or the like, is the only remaining article required. Now proceed to raise the log, as shown in the drawing, place one end of the straight stick beneath it, resting its tip on the flat top of the upright stick on the outside of the log. The baitstick should now be placed in position inside the inclosure, resting the pointed end on the chip, and securing the notch above, as seen in the illustration, beneath the tip of the flat stick. When this is done, the trap is set, but, there are a few little hints in regard to setting it finely, — that is, surely, — which will be necessary. It is very important to avoid bringing too much of the weight of the log on the flat stick, as this would of course bear heavily on the bait-stick, and render considerable force necessary to spring the trap. The lever- age at the point where the log rests on the flat stick should be very slight, and the log should be so placed that the up- right shall sustain nearly all the weight. By this method, very little pressure is brought to bear on the bait-stick, and a very slight twitch will throw it out of poise. The fork of the bait-stick should point to the side of the inclosure, as, in this case, when the bait is seized by the unlucky intruder, the very turning of the fork forces the notch from beneath the horizontal stick, and throws the parts asunder. If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals of similar size, the weight of the log will generally be found sufficient to effect their death ; but, if desired, a heavy stono THE DEAD-FALL II3 may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with other logs (see p. 18), to make sure. When set for a coon or fox, this precaution is necessary. To guard against the cunning which some animals possess, it is frequently neces- sary to cover the top of the pen with cross-sticks, as there are numerous cases on record where the intended victims have climbed over the side of the inclosure, and taken the bait from the inside, thus keeping clear of the suspended log, and springing the trap without harm to themselves. A few sticks or branches laid across the top of the inclosure will prevent any such capers ; and the crafty animals will either have to take the bait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone. For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips, apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the head of a fowl, is the customary bait ; and the skunk may usually be taken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl. In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting of the trap was somewhat varied ; and in case our readers might desire to try a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines to a description of it. In this instance, the flat stick which supported the log was not more than eight inches in length ; and instead of the bait-stick, a slight framework of slender branches was substituted. This frame or lattice-work was just large enough to fill the opening of the pen, and its upper end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastened to the back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top. The quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust his head through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrown out of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly. There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead- fall, commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the trap is sprung by the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. This construction is shown correctly in the accompanying cut, which gives the front view, the pen being made as before. The stout crotch represented at (a) is rested on the summit of a strong peg, driven into the ground beneath the outside edge of the suspended log ; {p) is the treacherous stick which seals the doom of any animal that dares rest his foot upon it. This piece should be long enough to stretch across and overlap the guard-pegs at each side of the opening. To set the trap, rest the short crotch of {a) on the top of the peg, and lov/er the log upon it, keeping the leverage sliglit, as directed in our last example, letting much of the weight come on the top of the 114 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inward from the front, and one end of the stick {b) should then be caught between its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten inches above the ground. By nov/ fastening^'the bait to a peg at the back part of the pen, the affair is in working order, and will be found perfectly reliable. The ground log (d) being rested in place as seen in the illustration. To make assurance doubly sure, it is well to cut a slight notch in the upright stick at (c) for the reception of the foot-piece {b). By this precau- tion the stick, when lowered, is bound to sink at the right end, thus ensuring success. The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of this book, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used. It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening of the pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavy log being poised on its summit. THE GARROTE. There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the dead-fall, but which seizes its prey in a little different manner. THE GARROTTE. II5 This trap, which we will call the Garrote^ is trutly represented by our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that of the dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches arc fastened in the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout forked stick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at the side of the arches, and about three feet distant. Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the trap, but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the " set- ting " or arrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, and consist : First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the ground at the back part of the pen, and a little to one side. Second, of a forked twig, the branch of which should point downward with the bait attached to its end. The third stick being the little hooked piece catching beneath the arches. The first of these is too simple to need description. The second should be about eight inches long ; a notch should be cut in each end. The upper one being on the side from which the branch projects, and the other on the opposite side of the stick, and at the other end, as is made plain by our illustration. The third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotch of some twig, as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly all the parts of this trap may be found in any woods ; and, with the exception of a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need not trouble him- self to carry any materials v/hatever. When the three pieces are thus made the trap only awaits the " Garrote." This should be made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a heavy stone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the letter U, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened ii6 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructivfe' work, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fall between the arches. The " crotch stick " should then be hooked beneath the front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. After this the bait stick should be placed in its position, with the bait pointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the notch in the ground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch stick. This done, and the trap is set. Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the side of the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the front is positively sure to slip it loose from its catches. Be careful to see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches, and that the top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these direc- tions are carefully follow- ed,and if the young trapper has selected a good trap- ping ground, it will not be a matter of many days be- fore he will discover the upper portion of the arches occupied by some rabbit, muskrat, or other unlucky ^lifi >". creature, either standing \ v_/:'%^^ on its hind legs, or lift- ""/^•^^'-^ ed clean off the ground. Coons are frequently se- cured by this trap, al- though, as a general thing, they don't show much enthusiasm over traps of any kind, and seem to prefer to get their food elsewhere, rather than take it off the end of a bait stick. THE BOW TRAP. This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of the author's, and possesses great advantages, both on account of its durability and of the speedy death which it inflicts. Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in width, and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut a hole four or more inches square. This may readily be done with a narrow saw, by first boring a series of gimlet holes in which to insert it. There will now be nine inches of board on one side of the hole and eleven on the other. The shorter end constituting the top of the trap. On the upper edge of the hole BOW TRAP. 117 a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in the illustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inches from it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), should be bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished on the interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, in- serted inside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. Let it be about half an inch m length, being afterwards bevelled nearly the whole length of one side, as shown at (J?), leaving a little over an eight of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little piece of wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should be made very carefully. The remaining end of the board below the auger hole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that it may be driven into the ground. The next requisites consist of two pieces of wood, which are seen at the sides of the square hole, in our illustration, and also seen at (^), side view. These Il8 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch square. A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the distance of four inches, and ending in a square notch. The other end should be rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. Before adjusting the pieces in place, two tin catches should be fastened to the board, one on each side of the hole. This catch is shown at {d\ and consists merely of a piece of tin, half an inch in width, and three-quarters of an inch in length, tacked to the wood, and having its end raised, as indicated. Its object is to hold the bow-string from being pulled down after once passing it. The upper edge of these catch-pieces should be about an inch and a half from the top of the hole, and, if desired, two or three of them may be arranged one above the other, so that wherever the string may stop against the neck of the inmate it will be sure to hold. The catches being in place, proceed to adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notch be on a line with the top of the pole, or a little above it. Each piece should be fastened with two screws to make secure. We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should be about six inches in length, and square, as our illustra- tion shov/s. There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, both shown at {e) and (/). The former consists merely of a screw eye inserted into the end of the stick, after- wards hinged to the board by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this case, should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other method (/), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and the spot for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of an inch from the square end of the bait stick a small hole should be made by the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be cut in the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily. A stout bit of wire should then be in- serted in the little hole in the stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice, it should be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows. This forms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place for the catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into the auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at the point Avhere it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cut a square notch, as shown in (b). Everything now awaits the bow. This should be of hickory or other stout wood ; it is well to have it seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose very well. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavy staples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string should be heavy Indian twine. Our MOLE TRAP. 119 illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for bus- iness. The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled face downward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string and pass it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip of the latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructed the string will thus rest on the slight un- cut portion of the under side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushed when approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and the string flies up with a twang! securing the neck of its victim, and pro ucing almost instant death. If the h2\\.\?, pulled^ the bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, and thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which imme- diately releases it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait is pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure to spring. In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in order that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is re- quired in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be very slightly inserted into the auger hole, and the notch in the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All this is made clear in our illustration {b\ By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure and sensitive. Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like. THE MOLE TRAP. If there is any one subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmers has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which would effectually clear their premises of these blind bur rowing vermin. Many patented devices of this character are on the market, and many odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds of the illustrated press, but they all sink into insignificance when tested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among mole traps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost. The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap on page 120. Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diam- eter, and eight inches in length. A section of a sm.all tree, neatly excavated with a large auger is just the thing. Through I20 MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About halt an inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for the passage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stout steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length, inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after the manner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required. A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and an inch in width at the other being suffi- cient. The trap is set as described in the other instances, and as the introduction of the spindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to its position inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimes cut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. The trap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Find afresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert the trap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his rounds through that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which side he may approach. Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in a single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantages over all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailing success. A FISH TRAP. Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, and although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line under our article on " Fishing " v/e here present one which h both new and novel. Its mode of construction is. exactly similar to the Double Box Snare, page (57). A sec- tion of stove-pipe one foot in length should first be obtained. Through the iron at a point equidistant from the ends, a hole should be made with some smooth, sharp pointed instru- ment, the latter being forced outward irom. the ijiside of the pipe, thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to aj^pear on the outside, as seen in our illustration. The diameter of the aper- A FISH TRAP.' 121 ture should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the upper side of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more holes downward through the side of the circumference, for the ad- mission of a stout stick or steel rod. This is fully explained in our illustration. The further arrangement of bait stick and nooses is exactly identical with that described on page (57). It may be set for suckers, pickerel, and fish of like size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficient firmness to withstand the at- tacks of smaller fish. The bait should be firmly tied to the stick, or the latter supphed with two hooks at the end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap, select a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom of the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses. By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may be easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a multitude of small fishes ; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot, and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised from the water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention of the author's, and it is as successful as it is unique Maternal Advice. BOOK V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. OR the most effectual domestic trap on record see our page title to this section. There are several others also which have done good service in many households, and for the sake of pestered housekeep- ers generally, we devote a corner of our volume for their especial benefit. Foremost in the list of domestic pests the rat stands pre-eminent, and his pro- verbial shrewdness and cunning render his capture often a very difficult, if not an impossible task. We subjoin, however, a few hints and suggestions of practical value, together with some perfected ideas in the shape of traps, by which the average rat may be easily outwitted and led to his destruction. First on the list is THE BARREL TRAP. This most ingenious device possesses great advantages in its capabilities of securing an almost unlimited number of the vermin in quick succession. It also takes care of itself, re- quires no re-baiting or setting after once put in working order, and is sure death to its prisoners. A water-tight barrel is the first thing required. Into this pour water to the depth of a foot. Next dampen a piece of very thick paper, and stretch it over the top of the barrel, tying it securely below the upper hoops. When the paper dries it will become thoroughly flat and tightened. Its surface should then be strewn with bits of cheese, etc., and the barrel so placed l^O HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. that the rats may jump upon it from some neighboring sur- face. As soon as the bait is gone, a fresh supply should be spread on the paper and the same operation repeated for several days, until the rats get accustomed to visit the place for their regular rations, fearlessly and without suspicion. This is "half the battle," and the capture of the greedy victims of mis- placed confidence is now an easy matter. The bait should again be spread as before and a few pieces of the cheese should be attached to the paper with gum. It is a good plan to smear parts of the paper with gum arabic, sprinkling the bait upon it. When dry, cut a cross in the middle of the paper, as seen in the illustration, and leave the barrel to take care of itself and the rats. The first one comes along, spies the tempting morsels, and with his accustomed confidence, jumps upon the paper. He suddenly finds himself in the water at the bottom of the barrel, and the paper above has closed and is ready to practice its deception on the next comer. There is not long to wait. A second victim soon tumbles in to keep company with the first. A third and a fourth soon follow, and a dozen or more are BARREL TRAPS. llj sometimes thus entrapped in a very short space of time. It is a most excellent and simple trap, and if properly managed, will most effectually curtail the number of rats in any pestered neighborhood. By some, it is considered an improvement to place in the bottom of the barrel a large stone, which shall project above the water sufficiently to offer a foothold for one rat. The first vic- tim, of course, takes possession of this retreat and on the precip- itate arrival of the second a contest ensues for its occupancy. The hubbub which follows is said to attract all the rats in the neighborhood to the spot, and many are thus captured. We can hardly recommend the addition of the stone as being an improvement. The rat is a most notoriously shrewd and cunning animal, and the despairing cries of his comrades must rather tend to excite his caution and suspicion. By the first method the drowning is soon accomplished and the rat utters no sound whereby to attract and warn his fellows. This con- trivance has been thoroughly tested and has proved its effi- cacy in many households by completely ridding the premises of the vermin. Another excellent form of Barrel Trap is that embodying the principle described in page (131). A circular platform should be first constructed and hinged in the opening of the barrel. This may be done by driving a couple of small nails thiough the sides of the barrel into a couple of staples inserted near the opposite edges of the iDlatform. The latter should be deli- cately weighted, as described on the above mentioned page, and previously to setting, should be baited in a stationary position for several days to gain the confidence of the rats. The bait should at last be secured to the platform with gum, and the bot- tom of the barrel of course filled with water, as already de- scribed. This trap possesses the samo advantages as the fore- going. It is self-settings and unfailing in its action. Another method consists in half-filling the barrel with oats, and allowing the rats to enjoy their repast there for several days. When thus attracted to the spot, remove the oats, and pour the same bulk of water into the barrel, sprinkling the sur- face thickly with the grain. The delusion is almost perfect, as will be effectually proven when the first rat visits the spot for his accustomed free lunch. Down he goes with a splash, is soon drowned, and sinks to the bottom. The next shares th& same fate, and several more are likely to be added to the list of mis'hich the animal had raised perpendicularly, as if for a THE SKUNK. 197 handle, the pretty creature was locked in the affectionate em- brace of its youthful admirer. But alas ! he soon repented his rashness, and the treacherous "pet" was quickly flung away, leaving its victim in such a foul state of overwhelming astonish- ment as can be more easily imagined than descril^ed. Every article of clothing worn on that eventful Sunday had to be buried, and it took weeks of Sundays before the odor . could be thoroughly eradicated from the hair and skin of the individual who wore those Sunday garments. After this adven- ture, the youth became more cautious with respect to pretty lit- tle playful animals, with black and white fur and bushy tails. There is hardly a farmer in the country but what has had some amusing or serious experience with the skunk, and almost every trapper has, at one time or another, served as a target for his shooting propensities. Natural histories are replete with anecdotes of which this animal is the mephitic hero, and vol- umes might be filled to the glory of his strong-smelling qual- ities. Perhaps it is through the prejudice of the writer that he can- not enthusiastically recommend the skunk as a domestic pet ; but it is neverthless asserted, on good authority, that these ani- mals, -when reared from the young, become very interesting and f layful in the household, and completely shut down on their objectionable faculties. Our illustration gives a very good idea of the animal, and it is so unHke any other creature that a further description will not be necessary. The prevaihng colors are white and black ; but these vary much in proportion, the animal sometimes being almost totally white, or altogether black. The fur is long, and comparatively coarse, being intermixed with long, glossy hairs, and is most valuable in the black animal. The body of the creature is about a foot and a half in length, exclusive of the tail, which adds about fourteen inches more. The skunk is generally nocturnal in its habits, secreting itself during the day in hollow trees,- or crevices in rocks, or wood- piles. At night it ventures forth in quest of its food, which consists chiefly of grasshoppers, worms and other insects, wild fruit and such small animals in the shape of frogs, mice and birds as it can capture. The poultry yard often offers an irre- sistible temptation, and both fowls and eggs often serve to ap- pease his appetite. The skunk is common throughout the greater part of North A.merica, and in many localities the numbers increase very 14 198 HOW TO TRAP. rapidly unless checked. The young are brought forth in bur- rows or holes in rocks during April or May, and are from six to nine in number. " Skunk fur " does not sound well when thought of in con- nection with a set of fashionable furs ; and few*' this reason the pelt of this animal is dignified by the name of Alaska sable by all dealers in the article. When known by this fancy title it suddenly becomes a very popular addition to fashion's winter wardrobe, and is one of the leading furs which are exported to meet the demand of foreign countries. Foul as the animal is, it seldom soils its own fur with its offensive fluid ; and when carefully skinned the fur is as saleable as that of any other animal. The Skunk is trapped in a variety of ways ; and as the animal is not cunning, no great skill is required. The steel trap is most commonly used, as other wooden varieties, box traps or dead-falls, for instance, are apt to absorb and retain the stench of the animal. In using the steel trap the size No. 2 shoukl be taken. It may be set at the entrance to their burrows or in their feeding grounds. It should be covered with loose earth or chaff, or some other light substance, and baited with small bits of meat, dead mice, or eggs placed around it. The enclo- closure illustrated on page 143 also answers well, and in all cases the spring pole, page 144, should be used. The dead-fall, page 107, is often employed, and the twitch-up, page 43, is a particularly effective contrivance for their capture, often pre- venting the evil consequences of the odor by causing instant dislocation of the neck, and this without injuring the fur. A stroke upon the backbone near the tail, by producing paralysis of the parts, also prevents the animal from using his offensive powers, and a dead-fall so constructed as to fall upon the animal at this part will accomplish the same effect. To manage this it is only necessary to place the bait far back in the enclosure, so that the skunk on reaching it will bring the rear portion of his body beneath the suspended log. The scent of the skunk is as we have said, almost ineradicable, but we would recommend chloride of lime as the most effectual antidote. It is also said by some trappers that the odor may be dissi- pated by packing the garment in fresh -hemlock boughs, letting it thus remain for a couple of days. This is certainly a valua- ble hint if true, and is well worth remembering. For skinning the skunk, see Beaver, Otter and Fox. THE WOLVERINE. THE WOLVERINE. 199 This, one of the most ferocious as well as detestable of American animals, is principally found in British America and the upper portion of the United States. It has won a world wide reputation for its fierceness and voracity, and on this ac- count is popularly known as the Glutton. It is not confined to America, but is also found in Siberia and Northern Europe. The general appearance of this animal, ugly in disposition as in appearance, is truthfully given in our illustration. It is not unlike a small bear in looks, and was formerly classed among that genus. The general color of the wolverine is dark brown. The muzzle, as far back as the eye-brows, is black, and the immense paws partake of the same hue. The claws of the animal are 200 HOW TO TRAP. long and almost white, forming a singular contrast to the jetty fur of the feet. So large are the feet of this animal, and so powerful the claws, that a mere look at them will tell the story of their death dealing quaUties, a single stroke from one of them often being sufficient for a mortal wound. Although the wol- verine is not as large as the bear, its foot prints in the snow are often mistaken for those of that creature, being nearly of the same size. The glutton feeds largely on the smaller quadrupeds, and is a most determined foe to the beaver during the summer months ; the ice-hardened walls of their houses serving as a perfect pro* tection against his attacks in the v/inter time. To the trapper of the north the wolverine is a most detested enemy, following the rounds of the traps and either detaching the baits or tearing away the dead animals which have fallen a prey to them. The trapper's entire circuit will be thus followed in a single night, and where the veritable "glutton" does not care to devour its victim it will satisfy its ferocious instinct by scratching it in pieces, leaving the mutilated remains to tell the story of its nocturnal visit. The wolverine is a dangerous foe to many animals larger than itself, and by the professional hunter it is looked upon as an ugly and dangerous customer. There are several methods of trapping this horrid creature, and in many localities successful trapping of other animals will be impossible without first ridding the neighborhood of the wolverines. Dead-falls of large size will be found to work suc- cessfully, baiting with the body of some small animal, such as a rat or squirrel. A piece of cat, beaver or muskrat flesh is also excellent, and by slightly scenting with castoreum success will be made sure. Several of these traps may be set at inter- vals, and a trail made by dragging a piece of smoked beaver meat between them. The gun trap, as described on page 20, will also do good service in exterminating this useless and troublesome animal. Steel traps of size No. 3or4are commonly used to good purpose. They may be arranged in any of the various meth- ods already described, the plan of the enclosure, page 143, being particularly desirable. In all cases the trap should be covered with leaves, moss or the hke, and the bait slightly scented with castoreum. Like all voracious animals, the perpetual greed of the wolverine completely overbalances its caution, and thus renders its capture an easy task. THE OPOSSUM. The home of the animal is generally in a crevice or cave be- tween rocks, and its young, two or three in number, are brought forth in May. In removing the skin, it may be ripped up the belly, or taken off whole, as described for the fox. THE OPOSSUM. The opossum is found more or less throughout nearly all the United States. In size it equals a large cat, the tail being aboat nfteen inches long, very flexible and covered with scales. The general color of the fur is irravish-whitc, slisfhtlv tinned with vel- 202 HOW TO TRAP. low, and the legs are of a brownish hue, which color also sur- rounds the eyes to some extent. The fur is comparatively soft and wooly, and thickly sprinkled with long hairs, white at the base and brown at the tips.' The nature and habits of the animal are very interesting. Its nest is made in some sheltered hollow in an old fallen or live tree, or beneath overhanging roots or rocks, and composed of moss and dead leaves. The young are produced in several lit- ters during the year, and when born are transferred by the mother to a pouch situated in the lower front portion of her body. Here they remain and are nourished by the parent until they are five weeks old, at which time they emerge and travel with their mother, and their little ring tails do them good ser- vice in holding fast to their guardian. It is an amusing sight to see a family of young 'possums thus linked together, and so " at- tached to each other." The opossum is a voracious and destructive animal, prowling about during the hours of darkness and prying into every nook and corner in hope of finding something that may satisfy the cravings of imperious hunger. Rats, mice, nuts, berries, birds, insects and eggs are all devoured by this animal ; and when not content with these he does not hesitate to insinuate himself into the poultry yard, and make a meal on the fowls and young chickens. His fondness for fruit and Indian corn often leads him to commit great havoc among plantations and fruit trees, and his appetite for the fruit of the persimmon tree is proverbial. While feeding on these fruits he frequently hangs by his tail, as seen in our illustration, gathering the persimmons with his fore paws and eating them while thus suspended. He is a most agile climber, and his tenacity and terminal resources in this direction are admirably depicted in that well known Methodist sermon, as follows : " An' you may shake one foot loose, but 'tothers thar ; an' you may shake all his feet loose, but he laps his tail around the Hm' an' he clings forever." He is an adept at feigning death, "playing 'possum" so skil- fully as frequently to deceive an expert. "'Possums" are hunted in the Southern States much after the manner of coons ; and to the negroes a " 'possum hunt " signi- fies most unbounded sport. Though cunning in many ways, the opossum is singularly simple in others. There is hardly any animal more easily cap- tured ; for it will walk into the clumsiest of traps, and permit itself to be ensnared by a device at which an American rat would look with utter contempt. THE WOODCHITCK. 203 The dead-fall, garrote, or stout snare may all be employed, bemg baited v/ith any of the substances already described. The steel trap 2>^ or 3 is most commonly used, being set in the haunts of the animal, and slightly scented with musk. See Fox and Beaver, for directions for skinning, stretching, etc., etc. THE RABBIT. The rabbit or "cotton tail," as he is familiarly termed, is too well-known to need any description here. From Maine to Texas our woods abound with these fleet-footed little creatures, of which there are several American species. They are the swiftest of all American quadrupeds, and have been known to clear over twenty feet in a single leap. They are all natural bur- rowers, although they often forego the trouble of excavating a home when one can be found already made, and which can be easily modified or adapted to their purposes. The common rabbit of New England often makes its home or "form," beneath a pile of brush or logs, or in crevices in rocks. Here it brings forth its young, of which there are often three or four litters a year. The creature becomes a parent at a very early age, and by the time that a rabbit is a year old it may have attained the dignity of a grand parent. The food of the rabbit consists of grasses, bark, leaves, bulbs, young twigs, buds, berries and the like, and of cultivated vegetables of all kinds, when opportunity favors. When sur- prised in the woods it manifests its alarm by violently striking the ground with its feet, causing the j^eculiar sound so often noticed at their first jump. The animal is fond of pursuing a beaten path in the woods, and is often snared at such places. Its enemies, beside man, are the lynx, and other carnivorous animals, hawks, owls, and even the domestic cat. The rabbit is a favorite game with all amateur sportsmen, and the devices used in its capture are multitudinous. It is by no means a difficult animal to trap, and a glance through the second and fourth sections of our book, will reveal many ingen- ious snares and other contrivances, commonly and successfully used. The Box trap, page 103, is perhaps the most universal exam- ple of rabbit trap, but the Self-setting trap, page no, and Double-ender, page 109, are also equally effective where the animal is desired to be taken alive. If this is not an object, the snare is to be recommended as simple in construction and sure in its result. 204 HOW TO TRAP. The above constitute the only devices commonly used iot the capture of the rabbit, the steel trap being dispensed with. On page 109 will be found additional remarks concerning the rabbit and many hints no baiting, etc., are also given under the heads of the various traps above alluded to. The skin of the rabbit is very thin and tender, and should be carefully removed, either as described for the fox,or in tlie ordinary method, by incision up the belly. Full directions for curing and tanning the skins will be found under its proper head in a later portion of this work. THE WOOD-CHUCK. This animal also called the marmot, is so well-known to most of our readers, that a detailed description will not be necessary, suffice it to say that the general color is brownish grey above, changing to reddish brown on the under parts. The head, tail and feet partaking of a darker color. The length of the animal is about a foot and a-half, exclusive of the tail, which is four inches long. The woodchuck is a clumsy looking animal, and anything but active in its movements. It is very unintelligent, and is always too ready to use its powerful teeth on the hand of any one who may attempt to handle it. It is naturally a timid animal, but when cornered or brought to bay, it fights most desperately. The woodchuck is an expert excavator, and where the animals exist in large numbers great damage is done by their united burrowing. They generally remain in their burrows during the day, only venturing out casually to see what is going on, and keeping near their entrance. Towards evening they start out to feed, devouring certain grasses and weeds, and also pumpkins and green corn with avidity, ever and anon sitting upright on their haunches, to see if the coast is clear. In case they are surprised in their meal, they hurry home in a pell-mell sort of a way, giving as much the appearance of roll- ing as running, but, nevertheless, getting over the ground with fair speed for such an unwieldly animal. The skin is loose and very tough, and possesses no commercial value, being princi- pally used for whiplashes. Their burrows are generally on the slope of a hill, and often at the foot of a rock or tree. These tunnels vary from ten to thirty feet in length, sloping down- ward from the opening, afterward taking an upward turn and terminating in a roomy chamber, in which the animal sleeps iu THE GOPHER. 205 winter and where the young from three to eight in number are brought forth. The woodchuck is found throughout nearly the whole of the United States, and is especially abundant in New England, where it is a decided nuisance. It is found as far south as Tennessee, and westward to the Rocky Mountains. The flesh of the woodchuck is by many much esteemed as food, particularly in the Fall. When used for this purpose, the animal should be skinned and carefully cleaned immediately after death, taking especial care to remove the masses of fat which lie inside of the legs, as these, if allowed to remain, are sure to taint the flesh in cooking. The animals are easily caught by setting the traps at the entrance of their burrows, and carefully covering them with loose earth, no bait being required. They may also be captured by the aid of a spring-pole, with noose attached, the pole being bent down and caught under a notched stick, and the noose being arranged at the opening of the burrow, see page 43, the Woodchuck in passing in or out will become entangled in the noose, and in his efforts to escape the pole will be loosened from the peg, thus lifting the animal in mid- air. Woodchucks are also sometimes drowned out of their holes, and the turtle is often put to good use for the purpose of smoking the animals from their subterranean dwellings. A ball of wicking saturated with kerosene is attached by a wire to the tail of the reptile. When the ball is ignited the creature is introduced into the entrance of the hole, and of course in fleeing from its fiery pursuer it traverses the full length of the burrow, and as another matter of course drives out its other occupants, which are shot or captured as they emerge. The woodchunk's skin is generally taken off as described for the muskrat, and stretched accordingly. THE GOPHER. This remarkable little animal somewhat resembles the Mole in its general appearance and habits. It is also commonly known as the Canada Pouched Rat, and is principally found west of the Mississippi and northward. It is a burrowing ani- mal, and like the Mole drives its subterranean tunnels in all di- rections, throwing up little hillocks at regular intervals of from five to twenty feet. Its body is thick set and clumsy and about ten inches long, and its Mole -like claws are especially adapted Its food consists of roots and vegetables, and its 2o6 HOW TO TRAP. long and projecting incisors are powerful agents in cutting the roots which cross its path in making its burrow. The most striking characteristic of the animal, and that from which it takes its name, consists in the large cheek pouches which hang from each side of the mouth and extend back to the shoulders. They are used as receptacles of food which the animal hurriedly gathers when above ground, afterward returning to its burrow to enjoy its feast at its leisure. It was formerly very commonly and erroneously believed that the Gopher used its pouches in conveying the earth from its burrow, and this is generally sup- posed at the present day, but it is now known that the animal uses these pockets only for the conveyance of its food. The color of the fur is reddish-brown on the upper parts, fading to ashy-brown on the abdomen, and the feet are white. In making its tunnels, the dirt is brought to the surface, thus making the little mounds after the manner of the mole. After having dug its tunnel for several feet the distance be- comes so great as to render this process impossible, and the old hole is carefully stopped up and a new one made at the newly excavated end of the tunnel, the animal continuing on in its la- bors and dumping from the fresh orifice. These mounds of earth occur at intervals on the surface of the ground, and al- though no hole can be discovered beneath them, they neverthe- less serve to indicate the track of the burrow, which lies several inches beneath. The Gopher is a great pest to western cultivators, and by its root feeding and undermining propensities does entensive in- jury to crops generally. They may be successfully trapped in the following manner : Strike a line betv/een the two most re- cent earth mounds, and midway between them remove a piece of the sod. By th-e aid of a trowel or a sharp stick the burrow may now be reached. Insert your hand in the tunnel and en- large the interior sufficiently to allow the introduction of No. (o) steel trap. Set the trap flatly in the bottom of the burrow, and then laying a piece of shingle or a few sticks across the excava- tion replace the sod. Several traps may be thus set in the bur- rows at considerable distances apart, and a number of tlie ani- mals thus taken. The traps are sometimes inserted in the bur- rows from the hillocks, by first finding the hole and then enlarg- ing it by inserting the arm and digging with the hand beneath. The former method, however, is preferable. The skin of the Gopher may be pulled off the body either by cutting up the hind legs, as described in reference to the Fox, THE MOLE. 207 or by making the incision from the lower jaw down the neck, as decided for thp muskrat, a simple board stretcher being used. THE MOLE. Of all the mammalia the Mole is entitled to take the first place in the list of burrowers. This extraordinary creature does not merely dig tunnels in the ground and sit at the end of them, as is the case with many annuals, but it forms a complicated sub- terranean dwelling place with chambers, passages and other ar- rangements of wonderful completeness. It has regular roads leading to its feeding grounds ; estabhshes a system of commu- nication as elaborate as that of a modern railway, or, to be more correct, as that of the subterranean network of the sewers of a city. It is an animal of varied accomphshments. It can run tolerably fast, it can fight like a bull-dog, it can capture prey under or above ground, it can swim fearlessly, and it can sink wells for the purpose of quenching its thirst. Take the mole out of its proper sphere, and it is awkward and clumsy as the sloth when 'placed on level ground, or the seal when brought ashore. Replace it in the familiar earth and it becomes a different being, full of life and energy, and actuated by a fiery activity which seems quite inconsistent with its dull aspect and seemingly in- ert form. We all know that the mole burrows under the ground, raising at intervals the little hillocks or " mole hills " with which we are so familiar ; but most of us little know the extent or variety of its tunnels, or that the animal works on a regular system and does not burrow here and there at random. How it manages to form its burrows in such admirably straight lines, is not an easy problem, because it is always done in black darkness, and we know of nothing which can act as a guide to the animal. As for ourselves and other eye-possessing creatures, the feat of walking in a straight line with closed eyelids is almost an im- possibility, and every swimmer knows the difficulty of keeping a straight course under water, even with the use of his eyes. The ordinary mole hills, so plentiful in our fields, present nothing particularly worthy of notice. They are merely the shafts through which the quadruped miner ejects the material which it has scooped out, as it drives its many tunnels through the soil, and if they be carefully opened after the rain has con- soHdated the heap of loose material, nothing more will be dis- covered than a simple hole leading into the tunnel. But let us 208 HOW TO TRAP. strike into one of the large tunnels, as any mole catcher will teach us, and follow it up to the real abode of the animal. The hill under which this domicile is hidden, is of considerable size, but is not very conspicuous, being always placed under the shelter of a tree, shrub, or a suitable bank, and would scarcely be discovered but by a practiced eye. The subterranean abode within the hillock is so remarkable that it involuntarily reminds the observer of the well-known "maze," which has puzzled the earliest years of youth throughout many generations. The central apartment, or " keep," if we so term it, is a nearly spherical chamber, the roof of which is almost on a level with the earth around the hill, and therefore situated at a consider- able depth from the apex of the heap. Around this keep are driven two circular passages or galleries, one just level with the ceiling and the other at some height above. Five short descending passages connect the galleries with each other, but the only entrance into the keep is from the upper gallery, out of which three passages lead into the ceiHng of the keep. It will be seen therefore that when the mole enters the house from one of its tunnels, it has first to get into the lower gallery to ascend thence into the upper gallery, and so descend into the central chamber. There is, however, another entrance into the keep from below. A passage dips downward from the centre of the chamber, and then, taking a curve upwards, opens into one of the larger burrows or high roads, as they may be fit^y termed. It is a noteworthy fact that the high roads, of which there are several radiating in different directions, never open into the gaJlery opposite one of the entrances into the upper gallery. The mole therefore is obliged to go to the right or left as soon as it enters the domicile before it can find a passage to the upper gallery. By the continual pressure of the moles upon the walls of the passages and roof of the central chamber, they become quite smooth, hard, and pohshed, so that the earth will not fall in, even after the severest storm. The use of so complicated a series of cells and passages is extremely doubtful, and our total ignorance of the subject affords another reason why the habits of this wonderful animal should be better studied. . About the middle of June the moles begin to fall in love, and are as furious in their attachments as in all other phases of their nature. At that time two male moles cannot meet without mutual jealousy, and they straightway begin to fight, scratcliing, tearing, and biting with such insane fury that they seem uncon- THE MOLE. 209 scious of anything except the heat of battle. Indeed the whole life of the mole is one of fury, and he eats like a starvini:^ tiger, tearing and rending his prey with claws and teeth, and crunching audibly the body of the worm between the sharp points. Magnify the mole to the size of the lion and you will have a beast more terrible than the world has yet seen. Though nearly blind, and therefore incapable of following its prey by sight, it would be active beyond conception, springing this way and that way as it goes along, leaping with lightness and quickness upon any animal which it meets, rending it in pieces in a moment, thrusting its blood-thirsty snout into the body of its victim, eating the still warm and bleeding flesh, and instantly searching for fresh prey. Such a creature would, without the least hesitation, devour a serpent twenty feet in length, and so terrible would be its voracity that it would eat twenty or thirty of such snakes in a day as easily as it devours the same number of worms. With one grasp of its teeth and one stroke of its claws, it could tear an ox asunder; and if it should happen to enter a fold of sheep or enclosure of cattle, it would kill them all for the mere lust of slaughter. Let, then, two of such animals meet in combat, and how terrific would be the battle ! Fear is a feeling of which the mole seems to be utterly unconscious, and, when fighting with one of its own species, he gives his whole energies to the destruction of his opponent without seeming to heed the injuries inflicted upon himself. From the foregoing sketch the reader will be able to estimate the extraordinary energies of this animal, as well as the wonderful instincts with which it is endowed. The fur of the mole is noted for its clean, velvety aspect; and that an animal should be able to pass unsoiled through earth of all textures is a really remarkable phenomenon. It is partly to be explained by the character of the hair, and partly by that of the skin. The hair of the mole is peculiar on account of its want of '' set." The tops of the hairs do not point in any par- ticular direction, but may be pressed equally forward or back- ward or to either side. The microscope reveals the cause of this peculiarity. The hair is extremely fine at its exit from the skin, and gradually increases in thickness until it reaches its full width when it again diminishes. This alternation occurs several times in each hair, and gives the peculiar velvet-like texture with which we are all so familiar. There is scarcely any coloring matter in the slender portion of the hair, ajiS the beautiful changeable coppery hues of the fur is 2IO HOW TO TRAP. owing to this structure. Another reason for the cleanliness of the fur is the strong, though membranous muscle be- neath the skin. While the mole is engaged in traveUing, par- ticularly in loose earth, the soil for a time clings to the fur; but at tolerably regular intervals the creature gives the skin a sharp and powerful shake, which throws off at once the whole of the mould that has collected upon the fur. Some amount of dust still remains, for, however clean the fur of a mole may seem to be, if the creature be placed for an hour in water, a considerable quantity of earth will be dissolved away and fall to the bottom of the vessel. The improvement in the fur after being well washed with soft tepid water and soap, is almost incredible. Many persons have been struck with such admira- tion for the fur of the mole, that they have been desirous of having a number of the skins collected and made into a waist- coat. This certainly can be done, but the garment thus made is so very hot that it can only be worn in winter. Such gar- ments are very expensive, and owing to the tender quality of the skin, possess but little lasting powers. There is also a wonderfully strong smell about the mole ; so strong, indeed, that dogs will sometimes point at moles instead of game, to the great disgust of their masters. This odor adheres obstinately to the skin, and even in furs which have been dried for more than ten years, this peculiar savor has been noticed. We have given much space to the mole, not particularly on account of its particular usefulness to the trapper, but because of its many claims to our notice. If the creature were a rare and costly inhabitant of some distant land, how deep would be the interest which it would incite. But because it is a creature of our country, and to be found in every field, there are but few who care to examine a creature so common, or who experience any feelings save those of disgust when they see a mole making its way over the ground in search of a soft spot in which to burrow. In many localities this interesting animal exists in such num- bers as to become a positive nuisance, and the invention of a trap which would effectually curtail their depredations has been a problem to many a vexed and puzzled farmer. Mole traps of various kinds have found their way into our agricultural papers, but none has proved more effectual than the one v/e describe on page 119. An arrangement of the figure four ^^-x^;^ 107, is also sometimes employed with good success. In this case the bait stick crosses the upright stick SQUIRRELS. 211 close to the ground, and rests over the burrow of the mole, the earth being previously pressed down to the surrounding level. The stone should be narrow and very heavy, and of course no bait is required. The pieces should be set carefully, and so adjusted that the lifting of the soil beneath the stick as the mole forces its way through the compressed earth will dislodge the bait stick and let down the stone with its crushing weight. Another method consists in embedding a deep flower pot in one of the main tunnels of the animal, and carefully replacing the soil above. The mole in traversing his burrow thus falls into the pit and is effectually captured. This i§ a very inge- nious mode of taking the animal, and rewarded its inventor with seven moles on the first night of trial. There are a number of other devices said to w^ork excellently, but the above we believe to be the most effectual of all. There are several sjDccies of American moles, the star-nosed variety being familiar to most of us. The most common moles are the shrew moles, with pointed noses. The silver mole is a large species, of a changeable silvery color, found on the Western prairies. The Oregon mole is nearly black, with pur- plish or brownish reflections. The most beautiful of all the moles is found at the Cape of Good Hope. It is of about the size of the ordinary American species, and its soft fur glistens with brilliant green and golden reflections. The fur of this species is probably the most won- derful and beautiful in the whole animal kingdom. SQUIRRELS. There are many species of squirrels found in the United States, but their fur is of little value, and of trifling importance in the fur trade ; the squirrel fur of our markets being that of a small grey European variety. Squirrels, as a class, possess much the same peculiarities and habits. Their claws are par- ticularly adapted for life among the trees ; their tails are long and bushy, covering over the backs of the animals when in a sitting posture. They are all lithe and quick of movement, and their senses of sight and hearing are especially keen. They are constantly on the alert, and are full of artifice when pur- sued. Their food consists chiefly of nuts, fruits, and grain, but when pushed by hunger, there is no telling what they will not eat. They generally provide for the winter months by laying U2 HOW TO TRAP. up a store of the foregoing provisions, either in holes in trees or interstices in the bark, or in cavities under ground. The shag-bark hickory offers an especial inducement to these prov- ident creatures in the numerous crevices and cracks through- out the bark. It is not an uncommon thing to find whole hand- fuls of nuts carefully packed away in one of these cracks, an 1 a sharp stroke with an ax in the trunk of one of these trees will often dislodge numbers of the nuts. The writer has many a time gone "nutting " in this way in the middle of winter with good success. The nests of squirrels are generally built in trees, either in a crotch between the branches or in some de- serted woodpecker's hole. Some species live in burrows in the ground, and those individuals who are lucky enough to be in the neighborhood of a barn often make their abode therein, taking their regular three meals a day from the gran- ary. In many localities these animals thus become a perfect pest to the farmers, and their destruction becomes a matter of urgent necessity. Squirrels, although resembling cacli other much as regards SQUIRRELS. 213 their general habits, differ considerably in the size and color oi the different species. The principal varieties found on our continent are : — The large grey squirrel, which is common in the Eastern and Middle States, and which is about two feet in length, including the tail. The common red squirrel, or chicaree, smaller than the foregoing, and found more or less all through the United rstates. The black squirrel, which is about the size of the grey, •■nd found in the north-eastern part of the United States, near tlie great lakes. In the Southern States there is a variety known as the fox squirrel, about the size of the red squirrel, and quite variable in color. The Middle States furnishes a species called the cat squirrel, rather smaller than the preced- ing. Its tail is very broad, and its color varies from very light to very dark grey. The ground squirrel, or chipmuck, with its prettily striped sides, is common to most of our readers, its general color being red and the stripes being black and white. Another burrowing species, known as the Oregon or downy squirrel, is found in the Territory from which it takes its name, and also northward in British America. In size it resembles the chipmuck, and its color is light red above, pure white beneath, and silver grey at the sides. The beautiful silky variety, known as the flying squirrel, with its grey chinchilla-like fur and loose skin, is found throughout the United States east of the Mississippi. Louisiana and Texas furnish the golden-bellied squirrel, which is about twenty inches in length, with tail golden yellow beneath, and golden grey above. The sooty squirrel is also found in this locality, being about the same size as the last mentioned, and black above and brownish red beneath. There are other varieties in California known as the woolly, soft-haired, and weasel squirrels ; and in the Western States we find the large red-tailed squirrels, which are about the size of the large grey variety of the Eastern and Middle States. Squirrels, as a tribe, are much sought for as pets, and most of the species are easily tamed. Box traps of various kinds are used in taking them alive. The varieties on pages 103, 106 and 1 10 are especially adapted for this purpose, and should be set either in the trees or on the ground, and baited with an apple, a portion of an ear of corn, or of whatever the animal is particularly fond. When the animals exist in such numbers as to become a de- 15 214 HOW TO TRAP. structive nuisance to the farm, the small-sized steel trap, No. o, arranged with bait hung above it, will work to good advantage. Twitch-ups are also successful, and we might also recommend the traps on pages 107, 116 and 128 as worthy of trial when the animal is not desired to be captured alive. Squirrels may be skinned either by ripping up the belly, or in a whole j^iece, as described in regard to the fox. We pause before going further into the mysteries of trapping in connection with the animals which we are about to consider, as they are generally exempt from the wiles of the trapper's art, coming more properly in the field of the hunter or sports- man. The idea of trapping a deer, for instance, seems barba- rous indeed ; but are not all the ways of deceiving and killing these splendid animals equally so ? Are not the various strate- gies and cunning devices of thesportsman, by which these noble creatures are decoyed and murdered, equally open to the same objection ? As far as barbarity goes, there is to us but little choice between the two methods ; and, generally speaking, we decry them both, and most especially do not wish to be under- stood as encouraging the trapping of these animals, except where all other means have failed, and in cases where their cap- ture becomes in a measure a matter of necessity. This is often the case in the experience of professional trappers. The life of the trapper during the trapping season is spent almost en- tirely in the wilderness, often many miles from any human habitation ; and at times he is solely dependent upon his gun or trap for his necessary food. Sometimes in a dry season, when the leaves and twigs crackle under foot, the rifle is as good as useless, for it becomes impossible to approach a deer within shooting range. And there are other times when ammunition is exhausted, and the trapper is thus forced to rely only on his traps for his supply of food. In such circumstances, the necessities of the trapper are paramount, and the trapping of deer, in such straits, as the most desirable food is rather to be recommended than con- demned. The same remarks also in a measure apply to the moose and prong-horn antelope, as well as to several other ani- mals hereinafter mentioned, as they are generally considered more in the light of the hunter's than the trapper's game. THE DEER. 215 THE DEER. There are upwards of eight varieties of this animal which inhabit North America. The common red or Virginian deer is found throughout the United States. The stag or Wapiti deer is now chiefly confined to the country west of the Missis- sippi and northward to British America. The moose we shall speak of hereafter. The Rocky Mountain mule deer, and the long-tailed deer of the same locality, are two more species, and there are also the black-tailed deer and the reindeer, the latter of which is a native of British America. The scope of our volume will not of course admit of detailed directions for trapping each variety, but, as the habits of all the species are in a measure similar, our remarks will apply to them in general, and particularly to the red or Virginian deer, which is the most important to American trappers. The trap for taking deer should be large, strong, and covered with spikes. The Newhouse (No. 4) is particularly adapted, and is especially arranged for this purpose. When the path of the deer is discovered on the border of a stream or lake, the trap should be set beneath the surface of the water, near the tracks of the animal, and covered by a hand- ful of dried grass thrown upon it. When thus set, it may either be left to run its chances, or success, further insured by the fol- lowing precaution: In winter the principal food of the deer consists of the twigs, buds, and bark of various forest trees, and particularly those of the basswood and maple. In the season when the traps are set as above described, a most tempting bait is furnished by a large branch of either of those trees, freshly cut, and laid near the trap. The deer in feeding are thus almost sure to be captured. There are certain glands which are located on the inner side of tlie hind legs of the deer, and which emit a very strong and peculiar odor. The scent of these glands seems to attract the animal, and for this reason are cut out and used by trappers as a scent-bait. In the case already described, it is 'well to rub the glands on the twigs of the trees, thus serving as an additional attraction to the bait. There is still another method of trapping deer, which is com- monly employed in the winter time. The trap is sunk in the snow at the foot of a tree, and the bait, consisting of an ear of corn or a few beards of other grain, is fastened to the tree, above the trap, three or more feet from the ground. The ani- mal, in reaching for the bait, places its foot in the trap and is secured. 2l6 HOW TO TRAP. When first caught, the deer becomes very wild and violent; so much so that if the trap \vere chained or retarded by a heavy clog, the chain, or even the trap itself, would most likely be broken. The weight of a trap of this size is generally a suffi- cient impediment, no clog, or at best a very light one, being re- quired. The first frantic plunge being over, the entrapped creature immediately yields and lies down upon the ground, and is always to be found within a few rods of where the trap was first sprung upon him. During the winter the traps may also be set in the snow, using the same bait already described. It is a common method to fell a small tree for the purpose, setting the traps beneath the snow, around the top branches. The deer, in browsing in the tender twigs or buds, are almost cer- tain to be captured. Dead-falls of different kinds are some- times used in trapping the deer, with good success ; using the scent bait already described, together with the other bait. The food of the deer during the summer consists of nuts, fruits, acorns, grass, berries, and water plants, and when in conve- nient neighborhood of cultivated lands, they do not hesitate to make a meal from the farmer's turnips, cabbages, and grain. As we have said, the winter food consists chiefly of the twigs of trees. When the snow is deep the deer form what are called "yards," about such trees as they particularly select for their browsing. These yards are made simply by tramping down the snow, and large numbers of the deer are often thus found together. As the supply of food is consumed, the yard is en- larged, so as to enclose other trees for browsing, and where deep snows abound throughout the winter, these enclosures often become quite extensive in area. Panthers, wolves, and wolverines take especial advantage of these, and easily secure their victims. By wolves especially entire herds of deer are thus destroyed, and whole yards depopulated in a single night. Panthers secrete themselves in the trees above the boughs overhanging the "yards,'' and, with stealthy movements, ap- proach and pounce upon their unsuspecting prey. The blood- thirsty wolverine secretes himself in the nooks and by-ways to spring upon its tawny victim unawares. These, together with man, form the principal foes of the deer, and we can truth- fully assert that the hunter is much more its enemy than the trapper. As we do not wish to encourage the wanton trapping of this noble creature, it would perhaps be well for us to devote also a few words in dcscribinc: the various modes of huntino: the ani- THE DEER. 217 mal, adopted by the "professional sportsmen" throu2:hout the land. The most common method is that called " still huntino^," most generally pursued in winter. The hunter is shod with deer-skin or other soft sandals, and starts out with his rifle and ammunition. Finding the fresh track of the deer, he cautiously and noiselessly follows up the trail, keeping a sharp lookout ahead. A practised deer-hunter becomes very skillful and accurate, and the animal is nearly always tracked to discovery, when he is shot. The deer's sense of smell is extremely acute, and, when in shooting range, it is very necessary to approach them in the face of the wind, the direction of which may be easily determined by holding the finger in the mouth for a mo- ment, afterward pointing it upward toward the sky. The cool side of the finger will indicate the direction from which the wind blows, and toward that direction the deer should always be approached, or as far toward that direction as possible. It will sometimes happen that the hunter will surprise the buck, doe, and fawn together. In order to secure the three, shoot the doe first. The buck and fawn will remain near the spot. The buck should next be shot, and then the fawn, the charge being aimed at the breast. Never approach a wounded deer without reloading the gun, as he is often more frightened than hurt, and is likely to start and run away, unless prevented by anothei shot. During the snow season, deer are always watchful of their back track. They are generally at rest during the day, starting out late in the afternoon on their usual ramblings, which they continue through the night. During the dark hours they love to resort to the water side in quest of aquatic plants, and are here often taken by hunters, many of which consider "night hunting " the favorite and most exciting sport. It is pursued in the following manner: The hunter requires a boat or canoe, page 261, a good rifle, and a lamp. The lamp, with a screen or reflector behind it, is placed at the bow of the boat. One hunter takes the oar, and, with noiseless paddle, propels or sculls the boat from the stern. The armed hunter crouches behind the light, with the muzzle of his rifle projecting beyond the screen sufficiently to easily show the forward sight on the tip of the barrel. A dark lantern is sometimes used as a light. The eyes of the deer shine very perceptibly at night, and his prev:cnce on the banks is thus easily detected. If he is noise- lessly approached, he will remain transfixed by the effect of the light from the boat, and he may be neared even to a very close range, when he is easily despatched. Hundreds of deer 2l8 HOW TO TRAP. are thus taken during the summer and autumn. Deer are also chased by dogs until they are forced to take refuge in the near- est rivers or lakes, when the hunter in his canoe overtakes and shoots them. Another method is frequently employed in the hunting of the deer. These animals are very fond of salt, and with it they are often decoyed to a spot where the hunter lies in wait tor them. These places are called ^' deer licks," or salting places, and can be made as follows : Select a locality where deer are known to frequent, and place a handful of salt either on a smooth spot of ground or in the hollow of a log. A section of a log is sometimes slightly dug out at one end and the other inserted in the earth, the salt being placed in the hol- low. The hunter secretes himself in a neighboring tree, some- times erecting a bench or scaffolding for comfort, and, provided with gun and ammunition, he awaits the coming of the deer. Hunters say that a deer seldom looks higher than his head, and that a sportsman on one of these scaffoldings, even though he is clumsy in his movements, is seldom noticed by the animal. The salt lick is also utilized for night hunting. A head- lantern is generally required. This can be made in the follow- ing manner : Construct a cylinder of birch bark or paste-board or any like substance, ten inches in height, and of sufficient size to fit closely on the head. A circular partition should next be firmly inserted at about the middle of the cylinder, and the centre of the partition should be provided with a socket for the re- ception of a candle. On this end of the cylinder a piece should now be cut to admit of the passage of light from the candle on that side. Having this fire-hat at hand wait patiently for the game. When a significant noise is heard light the candle and place the cylinder on the head, with the open cut in front, thus directing the light toward the ground. As the deer approaches, his fiery eyes will easily be seen, and the light from the candle will shine sufficiently on the rifle to cleady reveal the sights and admit of a sure aim. There is still another method of night hunting by the salt lick. The rifle is aimed directly at the salted spot, and thus firmly fixed — this preparation being made in the day- time. When night approaches, the hunter finds a piece of phosphorescent wood or " fox fire," and places it on the ground, at a point which he has previously determined to be on a direct line of the aim of his gun. The "fox fire " is plainly seen from the tree, and as soon as it is darkened he knows that it is ob- scured by the deer, and he pulls the trigger and kills his game. Deer are hunted at all seasons of the year, but ought not to THE MOOSE. 219 be hunted during the summer. The sport legitimate y begins in September, when the buck begins to harden his horns, and when his flesh is in its best condition for food. In October the deer is more shy, and during this month and after, the sport is at its height. The deer should be skinned from an incision down the belly, and the hide spread on a hoop stretcher, paga 275- THE MOOSE. We have already given so much space to the hunting of the deer that we shall be obliged to cut short our remarks on the Moose, particularly as it is a representative of the same family. This animal is the largest of the Deer tribe, being seven or eight feet in height and often weighing over fifteen hundred pounds. It is supplied with immense flat spreading horns, sometimes ex- panding to the distance of six feet between the tips. It is found in Maine, Oregon and Washington Territories, and in the neigh- borhood of the great lakes, and inhal:)its the regions as far 220 HOW TO TRAP. north as the Arctic Sea. Its color is yellowish brown. The fur is thicker in winter than summer, and on the neck of the animal the hair is very coarse and hangs in an immense tuft of over a foot in length. The flesh is most excellent food and is much esteemed by trappers. The habits of the moose are in most respects identical with the deer, already described, and like them they form '^ yards " during the winter season. In the North the moose is hunted on snow-shoes by the natives, and in summer they are shot like the deer. They are often very dangerous and terrible creatures to hunt, and the utmost care and skill, as described in regard to the deer, is re- quired on the part of the hunter in order to avoid detection through the exquisite sense of smell which the animal pos- sesses. The moose is easily trapped. The Newhouse, No. 6, is especially adapted for the purpose, and it should be chained to a clog of stone or wood of over fifty pounds in weight. Set the trap in the '* yard," or beneath the snow where the moose frequents, or in the summer, or fall seasons, as described for the deer, using the same methods in regard to baiting, etc. Skin after the manner of cattle, and stretch the hide on a hoop-spreader. Page 275. ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP. These creatures are natives of the entire range of the Rocky Mountains, and are especially prized on account of the superior quality of their flesh as food. They are much larger and more powerful than the domestic sheep, and the ram is provided with enormous curved horns. The wool of the animal is intermixed with coarse grey hairs, and the general appearance of the fur is russet grey, with the exception of the rump and under parts, which are of a dirty white color. The animal is generally very wary and retiring, and inhabits the most secluded and inaccess- ible mountain regions and rocky cliffs. They are easily captured by the steel trap (No. 5) set in their haunts. The dead-fall is also used in some instances. Re- move thxi skin as described for the deer. THE BUFFALO. The Buffaloes or Bison of the Western plains is too well known to need description. They travel in migrating herds of thou- sands, and are found from Texas to British America. Their food THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE. 221 consists chiefly of grass, of which the " Buffalo grass '' is their great delight. They graze and travel through the day and rest by night. They are more the game of the hunter than the trapper, although the largest side Newhouse would effectually secure one of the animals. The Buffalo is generally hunted on horseback, the usual method being that of stealing into the drove while grazing, always moving against the wind in order to avoid being scented. The flesh is palatable and by many much relished. The Buffalo skins of commerce are furnished by the cows. The bull skins are almost devoid of fur on the hinder parts, the hair being confined to the huge heavy mass on the hump and mane. Skin the animal as described for the Moose. THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE. This sole American representative of the Antelope tribe we believe is seldom trapped ; but as it is a well-known animal on the Western plains, a short mention of it is required here. In general shape this creature bears considerable resemblance to the deer, the form of the horn being its chief jDeculiarity, each one of v/hich is provided with a single prong, from which the animal takes its name, of Prong Horn. The color of the body is brownish-yellow, with the exception of the rump and belly which are almost white. The Antelopes generally travel in herds, and are much hunted by the Indians who surround them and destroy them with heavy clubs. Like the deer, their sense of smell is especially keen and the same caution is required in hunting them. In size they are about the same as the Virginian Deer. They are wonderfully graceful in all their movements, and are even more fleet of foot than the deer. These Antelopes inhabit the Western Prairies and wooded borders from New Mexico northward, and their flesh is much esteemed as an article of diet. They may be caught in their feeding places, as recommended for the deer, using the same sized trap. The dead fall is also efficacious in their capture, and they are also sometimes taken in kirge pit-falls covered over with light sticks and leaA^es, to resemble the natural surroundings. On this false covering, the bait, consisting of green corn or other veget- ables, is strewn and a high wall of logs or stones is erected around it, in order that the animal will be obliged to y/^//^/ slight- ly in order to reach the bait. Remove the hide as recommended for the deer. 222 HOW TO TRAP. SHOOTING AND POISONING. Until the introduction of the steel-trap, shooting was a common method of taking fur bearing animals, and even to the present day it is quite prevalent in some localities. Any one who has had any experience with the fur trade must have learned that furs which are *' shot," are much affected in value . Some furriers will not purchase such skins at any price ; and they never meet with any but a very low offer. ^-Trapped furs" and '' shot furs " are terms of considerable significance in the fur trade, and any one who wishes to realize from a profitable sale of his furs, should use his gun as little as possible. A shot grazing through the fur of an animal cuts the hairs as if with a knife, and a single such furrow is often enough to spoil a skin. It is these oblique grazing shots which particularly damage the fur, and an animal killed with a shot gun is seldom worth skinning for the value of its pelt. If firearms are used, the rifle is preferable. If the animal chances to be hit broadside or by a direct penetrating bullet, the two small holes thus made may not particularly effect the value of its skin, although even then the chances are rather slight. Trapped furs are of the greatest value. The use of poison is objectionable as a means ot capture in animals especially desired for their fur. Strychnine is the sub- stance generally employed, and unless its victim is skinned im- 7nediately after death the pelt becomes considerably injured by the absorption of the poison. It has the effect of loosening the tur and the hair sheds easily. The poison is principally used in the capture of Wolves and animals considered in the light of vermin. For a wolf or fox, the poison is mixed with lard or tallow and spread on pieces of meat, or a small amount of the powder is inclosed in an incision in the bait. The amount sufficient for a single dose may be easily held on the point of a knife blade, and death ensues in a a very few moments after the bait is taken. For a Bear the dose should be a half thimbleful, and it should be deposited in the centre of a piece of honey comb, the cells being emptied of their honey for that purpose. Other animals may be taken by proportionate quantities of the poison, but for general purposes we discourage its use. BOOK VII. CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS. T has been the author's object in the preparation of this book not simply to content the reader with a mere superficial knowledge of so-called "Amateur trap- ping," but to carry him further into the art profession- ally considered, and for this reason we present in the following chapter a full catalogue of the trapper's outfit, containing detailed descriptions of all the necessaries for a most thorough campaign, including boats and canoes, log cabins, shanties and tents, snow shoes and camp furniture of all kinds, together with numerous and valuable hints on trapper's food. PLAN OF CAMPAIGN. The first thing to be considered in reference to a campaign is the selection of a trapping ground, and it is always desirable to choose a locality where travel by water can be resorted to as much as possible. Otter, mink, beaver and muskrat are among the most desirable game for the trapper, and as these are all amphibious animals, a watered district is therefore the best on all accounts. Lakes, ponds, and streams, bordered by wild woods, form the best possible grounds for general trapping, and the mountain lakes of the Adirondacks and Alleghenies, and all similar regions are especially desirable on this account. Almost any wild country, intersected with streams, lakes, and rivers, is apt to abound with game, and some trappers confine their labors to the borders of a single lake, and adjoining for- est. This plan is especially to be recommended to the ama- teur, as much of the travelling to and fro can be done by boat, 225 THE CAMPAIGN. the labor being thus much lightened. Having decided upon the seat of operations, the young trappers should immediately set to work at building their shanties and boats. The home shanty is of the greatest importance, and should be constructed first. Select some flat bit of land near the water and clear it of brush wood, or other rubbish and proceed to work as described on page 242. A good axe is the only tool required by an experi- enced trapper in the construction of such a shanty. Should the trapping lines be very extensive, additional bark shanties, page 245, will require to be made at intervals along the line, for sleep- ing stations and shelters in case of storm. The professional trapper generally attends to the building of his shanties and boats before the trapping season commences, and thus has everything in readiness for his campaign. If in a birch bark country the Indian canoe, page 260, is the most desirable craft, on account of its lightness and portability. The dug-out, or bateau, described on page 259, will also do good service. The trapping season begins in October, and everything should be in readiness at this time, so that the trappers may devote all their time strictly to business. The route of the professional trapper often extends over fifty miles, and the number and weight of traps and provisions which these rough-and-ready individuals often carry as personal luggage is most astounding. Fifty or sixty pounds apiece is considered 2c fair burden, and they deem no one a fit physical subject for a campaign who cannot at least manage thirty pounds with com- parative ease. The number of the trapping party generally consists of from two to four. A few days prior to the opening of the trapping season, the party start out, laden vv^ith their bur- den of traps and provisions, and deposit them at intervals along the line, the provisions being mainly kept in the " home shanty." Several trips may be necessary to complete these preparations, unless the trapping ground is readily accessible by wagon or boat, in which case the transportation is much easier. The 'Miome shanty" is generally built only when the trap- ping grounds are far in the wilderness, miles away from civili- zation. If the line extends from the outskirts of some town or village, such a hut may be dispensed with. It is used princi- pally as a storehouse for furs, provisions, ammunition, tools, and other valuables, and also serves as a point of rendezvous, or a home, for the trappers, one of the number being generally left in charge to "keep shanty" while his companions are on their tramps in search of game. If desired, a boy may be taken PLAN OF CAMPAIGN. 227 along for this especial purpose. In every case, some suc^ guar- dian is very necessary, and particularly in wild districts, abound- ing in wolves and bears, as these animals have an odd trick of breaking into unguarded shanties, and often make sad havoc with its stores. Steel traps are almost exclusively used by the pro- fessional trapper, and the supply for a single campaign will often exceed one hundred and fifty. Many of the traps described in the early part of this work are also used, and for the amateur who has not the ready cash to lay out in steel traps, are decid- edly to be recommended and will be found very efficient. From thirty to fifty traps would be a fair number for an ordinary ama- teur trapping season, and the probable cost of such a lot would be from ^15 to $25. The sizes of the traps will depend upon the game sought. No. 2J^ being a good average. With this sup- ply, relying somewhat on dead-falls, twitch-ups, and the vari- ous other devices described in our early pages, we can guaran- tee lively sport, of course, presuming that good judgment has been used in the selection of a trapping ground. In later arti- cles, under the proper headings, we give full details concerning food and cooking utensils, shelter and bedding, as well as many other requisites for the trapper's comfort. To complete the list he should provide himself with a good sharp axe, and hatchet, and if the log canoe is in anticipation he will also require the other tools mentioned on page 259 an oilstone being carried in order to keep the various tools in good repair ; an auger, saw, and some large nails are also to be desired, and a small parcel containing needles, thread, jDins, scissors, etc., will be found in- dispensable. *' Cleanliness is next to Godliness," and there are no more luxurious necessities in camp life than a piece of soap and a clean towel. For light it is advisable to carry a supply of candles, or a lantern with a can of oil. The latter is, of course, more bulky, and for a campaign wholly on foot is hardly to be recommended on this account. Each trapper should be provided with a stout jack-knife, pocket-compass, and a supply of matches, a number of these being always carried on the person to provide for the emergen- cies to v/hich the hunter is always subject. One of the party should carry a double-barrelled shot-gun and another a rifle, or both may be combined in a single weapon. A revolver is also a desirable acquisition. Purified neats-foot oil should be used on the fire-arms, and in lieu of this, some trappers use the melted fat of the grouse for the same purpose. A good supply of fishing tackle is almost indispensable, and 228 THE CAMPAIGN. with these valuable equipments the young trapper may defy the wilderness with all its hazards. With his traps, gun and rod, together with his store of provisions, he may look forward to a larder well stocked and may calculate on an appetite which will do it justice. The list of portable provisions and cooking utensils best adapted for a campaign are given under their proper title, and will be found to cover all the wants of the most fastidious. The stove is the most cumbersome article, but trappers generally dispense with its use altogether, looking at it rather in the light of a luxury as well, as a nuisance. The open camp fire will answer every purpose, both for cooking and for comfort in cold weather. For clothing it is desirable to carry at least two suits, in order to have a "change." They should be of woolen, and from the hunter^ s point of view, should be of a sombre shade, so as to be as inconspicuous as possible. The use of high-top boots is to be deprecated, as they are tiresome and unwieldy. Short boots, with thick, iron-pegged soles, are generally preferred by trappers, and in order to render them soft, pliable, and water- proof they may be soaked or smeared with a hot mixture, com- posed of one part rosin, two parts beeswax, and three parts tallow. Simple tallow, or even the fat of the deer, is some- times used for the same purpose. Calculating on a successful campaign, a supply of board- stretchers, page 273, will be needed for the curing of the skins, and if our adventurous enthusiasts should extend their experi- ence along into the winter, the toboggan and snow-shoes will come into good use for convenient winter travel. The trapping season properly commences in October and ends in April. The pelts of fur bearing animals are in their best condition during this time, and in the winter are in their prime. The various modes of setting and baiting traps for all our leading animals are clearly set forth in another part of this volume. And in the accompanying engravings will be found life like representations of each species. In a trapping campaign it is an excellent plan to select a central point for the home shanty, extending the trapping lines in several directions therefrom, following the borders of the lakes or streams for the otter, beaver, mink and muskrat ; and setting a few lines inland for the capture of martens, racoons, foxes, etc. For an amateur campaign this a most excellent and convenient PLAN OF CAMPAIGN. 229 arrangement, the lines may extend all the way from one to fiv^c miles each, and connect at their edges, the whole ground plan resembling the form of a wheel, the shanty corresponding to the hub, and the trapping lines the spokes, the tire representing the circuit connecting the various lines. Where the latter ex- tend over many miles it is well to construct bark shanties at the limits. Let each trapper take a certain " spoke," and follow it to its terminus, returning on the adjacent line. On his arrival at the shanty he should immediately set to work skinning the animals taken, and stretching their furs. Full directions for skinning the various game are given under their respective titles, and the curing of skins is treated in detail in another chapter of this work. We also present a table of the comparative values of the various American furs at the present date of publication. Of course these values are constantly varying, but the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values of common and scarce furs. Great care should always be used in removing the skins from the various animals, as the final value of the fur much de- pends upon this. They should not be removed from the stretchers until perfectly dry, and should then be laid iji a cool, airy place. When near a village or settlement it is advisable to send " into town " every few days with a batch of furs for safe keeping, and particularly so when the skins are valuable, and in cases where the home shanty is left unguarded. The value of prime otter or mink pelt is a matter of no small importance, and a good trap- ping ground furnishes a rare field for light fingered prowlers who are well posted on the market price of raw furs, and who are constantly on the lookout for such prizes, either in the shape of the prepared skin, or on the back of the live animal. These " trap robbers," or poachers, are the pests of trappers, and many have learned from dear experience the advisability of placing their choice furs beyond the reach of the marauders. The hut in which they are stored is nearly always kept guarded, and, where this is impracticable, the skins are hid in hollow trees, or carried to some near settlement, as we have already mentioned. If the campaign proves successful and promises well for another season, it is customary to hide the traps Ijcneath rocks, thus saving the labor of a second transportation. In order to keep the traps from rusting, it is well to cover them with oat or buck- wheat chaff. The rock should be first rolled from its resting place, and a bed of the chaff made beneath it, in which the traps should be covered, the rock being afterwards replaced. In a few such 16 230 THE CAMPAIGN. places all the traps may be effectually stored away, and they will be found in prime order and ready for business on the iot lowing season. In the months of September and October trappers are much annoyed by gnats and mosquitoes, and, as a preventive against the attacks of these pests, we give on page 255 some valuable receipts, which have stood the test of time, and are still the most effective remedies. The ^' smudge," consisting of a smouldering pile of birch bark is also used where the insects infest the tents or shanties by night. The bark should be dry, and should not be allowed to blaze. The smudge is generally placed at the entrance of the tent, and the trapper may then take his choice between smoke or mosquitoes, both cannot exist together, and a tent infested with the blood-thirsty pests may be effectually cleared in a few minutes by the introduction of smoking brand for a few seconds. If luc tent is now closely buttoned and the smudge kept burning directly outside, there will be no further trouble with the mosquitoes, and the odor of the smoke is, after all, but a slight annoyance and to some is even enjoyable after being once accustomed to it. When the home shanty is infested, it may be cleared in the same way, and by the aid of two or more smudges on the v/indward side may be kept free from the insects. FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. The professional trapper on a campaign depends much upon his traps for his food, and often entirely contents himself with the subsistence thus gained. We encourage and believe in " roughing it " to a certain extent, but not to that limit to which it is often carried by many professional "followers of the trap " throughout our country. The course of diet to which these individuals subject themselves, Avould often do better credit to a half civilized bar- barian than to an enlightened white man, and when it comes to starting on a campaign with no provision for food excepting a few traps, a gun, and a box of matches, and relying on a chance chip for a frying-pan, he would rather be " counted out." In ordinary cases we see no necessity for such deprivation, and, on the other hand, we decry the idea of transporting a whole kitchen and larder into the woods. There is a happy medium between the two ex- tremes, whereby a light amount of luggage in the shape of cooking utensils and closely packed portable food, may render the wild life of the trapper very cozy and comfortable, and his FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 231 meals a source of enjoyment, instead of a fulfilment of physical duty. What with the stock of traps, necessary tools, blankets, etc., the trapper's burden is bound to be pretty heavy, and it be- comes necessary to select such food for transportation as shall combine the greatest amount of nutriment and the least possible weight, and to confine the utensils to those absolutely necessary for decent cooking. The trapper's culinary outfit may then be reduced to the fol- lowing items, and in them he will find a sufficiency for very pas- sable living. One of the most nutritious and desirable articles of food con- sists of fine sifted Indian meal; and it is the only substantial article of diet which many trappers will deign to carry at all. By some ifc is mixed with twice its quantity of wheat flour, and is thus used in the preparation of quite a variety of palat- able dishes. One or two pounds of salt pork will also be found a valuable addition ; boxes of pepper and salt and soda should also be carried. With these simple provisions alone, relying on his gun, traps and fishing tackle for animal food, the young trapper may rely on three enjoyable meals a day, if he is any- thing of a cook. Pork fritters are not to be despised, even at a hotel table ; and with the above they can be made to suit the palate of the most fastidious. Indian meal is a valuable accessory with cooks generally, and to the trapper it often becomes his great " staff of life." If our young enthusiast desires to try his hand at roughing it to the fullest extent, compatible with common sense and the strength of an ordinary physical constitution, he may endeavor to con- tent himself with the above portable rations ; but with anything less it becomes too much like starva- tion to arouse our enthusiasm. For cooking utensils, a small frying-pan and a deep tin basin are indispensable ; and a drinking cup is also to be desired. The kind known as the telescope cup, constructed in three parts, which close within each other, when not in use, pos- sesses great advantages on account of its portability. With these one can get along pretty decently. The pork fritters already mentioned form a favorite dish with trappers generally, and can be made in the fol- 232 THE CAMPAIGN. lowing way; have at hand a thick batter of the Indian meal and flour; cut a few shces of the pork, and fry them in the frying-pan until the fat is tried out ; cut a few more slices of the pork ; dip them in the batter and drop them in the bubbling fat, seasoning with salt and pepper ; cook until light brown and eat while hot. The question now arises, "What shall we eat them with ? " If you are " roughing it," such luxuries as plates and knifes and forks are surely out of the question ; and you must content yourself with a pair of chop sticks " a la Chinee," or make your jackknife do double purpose, using a flat chip or stone as a plate. A small tin plate may be added to the list of utensils if desired, but we are now confining ourselves to the *' lowest limit" of absolute necessities. That wholesome dish known as " boiled mush," may come under the above bill of fare ; and fried mush is an old stand-by to the rough and ready trap- per. In the first case the Indian meal is slowly boiled for one hour, and then seasoned as eaten. It is then allowed to cool, and is cut in slices and fried in fat. Indian meal cakes are easily made by dropping a quantity of the hot mush in the fry- ing-pan, having previously stirred in a small quantity of soda, and turning it as soon as the lower side is browned. A Johnny cake thus made is always appetizing, and with the addition of a little sugar, it becomes a positive luxury. Hoe cakes, so much relished by many, can be made by mixing up a quantity into a thick mass, adding a little soda. Bake in the fire on a chip or flat stone. The trapper's ground is generally in the neighborhood of lakes or streams, and fresh fish are always to be had. They may be cooked in a manner which would tempt a city epicure ; and when it comes to the cooking of a fresh brook trout, neither a Prof. Blot nor a Delmonico can compete with the trapper's recipe. The trout is first emptied and cleaned through a hole at the neck, if the fish is large enough to admit of it ; if not, it should be done by a slit up the belly. The in- terior should be carefully washed and seasoned with salt and pepper ; and in the case of a large fish, it should be stuffed with Indian meal. Build a good fire and allow the wood to burn down to embers ; lay the fish in the hot ashes and cover it with the burning coals and embers ; leave it thus for about half an hour, more or less, in proportion to the size of the fish (this may be easily determined by experiment) ; when done, remove it carefully from the ashes, and peel off the skin. The clean pink flesh and delicious savor which now manifest themselves will create an appetite where none before existed. All the deli- FOOD AND UTENSILS. 233 cate flavor and sweet juices of the fish are thus retained, and the trout as food is then known in its perfection. By the ordinary method of cooking, the trout loses mucn of its original flavor by the evaporation of its juices ; and although a delicious morsel in any event, it is never fully appreciated ex- cepting after being roasted in the ashes, as above described. The other method consists in rolling the fish in the Indian meal and frying it in the frying-pan with a piece of the salt pork. Seasoning as desired. Partridges, ducks, quail, and other wild fowl are most deli- cious when cooked in the ashes as described for the trout. The bird should be drawn in the ordinary manner, and the inside washed perfectly clean. It should then be embedded in the hot coals and ashes, the feathers having been previously saturated with water. When done, the skin and feathers will easily peel off, and the flesh will be found to be wonderfully sweet, tender, and juicy. A stuffing of pounded crackers and minced meat of any kind, with plenty of seasoning, greatly im- proves the result, or the Indian meal may be used if desired. A fowl thus roasted is a rare delicacy. A partridge, squirrel, pigeon, woodcock, or any other game can be broiled as well in the woods as at home, using a couple of green-branched twigs for a spider or "toaster," and turning occasionally. For this purpose the bird should be plucked of its feathers, cleanly drawn and washed, and spread out by cutting down the back. Venison, moose, or bear meat, can be deliciously roasted in joints of several pounds before a good fire, using a green birch branch as a spit, and resting it on two logs, situated on opposite sides of the fire. The meat can thus be occasionally turned and propped in place by a small stick, sprinkling occasionally with salt and pepper. The above manner of making the fire is that adopted by most woodsmen. Two large green logs, of several feet in length, being first laid down at about three feet distant, between these the fire is built, and when a kettle is used a heavy pole is so arranged as to project and hold it over the fire. A cutlet of venison fried in the pan is delicious, and a *' Johnny cake" cooked in the fat of this meat is a decided dainty. With the above hints for a " rough and ready " campaign, we think the young trapper ought to be able to get along quite comfortably. We will now pass on to the consideration of what the average 234 THE CAMPAIGN. professional trapper would call "luxuries." The stock of these depends much upon the location of the trapping ground. If accessible by wagon or boat, or both, they may be carried in unlimited quantities, but when they are to be borne on the back of the trapper through a pathless wilderness of miles, the supply will, of course, have to be cut short. When two or three start out together it becomes much easier, one carrying the traps and tools ; another the guns, cooking utensils, etc. ; the third confining his luggage to the food. One of the most necessary requisites for a journey on foot consists in a knap- sack or large square basket, which can be easily strapped to the back of the shoulders, thus leaving the hands free. Matches are absolutely indispensable, and a good supply should be car- ried. They should always be enclosed in a large-mouthed bot- tle with a close fitting cork, to prevent their being damaged by moisture. For further safety in this regard the matches may be rendered perfectly water-proof by dipping their ends in thin mastic or shellac varnish. If not at hand, this varnish can be easily made by dissolving a small quantity of either sort of gum in three or four times its bulk of alcohol. It is well to dip the whole stick in the solution, thereby rendering the entire match impervious to moisture. Lucifer matches are the best, and, when thus prepared, they may lay in water for hours with- out any injury. It is a fearful thing to find oneself in the wil- derness, cold and hungry, and without the means of lighting a fire, and to prepare for such an emergency it is always advisable to be provided with a pocket sun glass. So long as the sun shines a fire is thus always to be had, either by igniting a small quantity of powder (which the trapper is always supposed to carry) or using powdered "touch wood " or "punk tinder" in its place. Fine scrapings from dry wood will easily ignite by the sun glass, and by fanning the fire and adding additional fuel it will soon burst into flame. In cloudy weather, and in the absence of matches, a fire may easily be kindled by sprink- ling a small quantity of powder on a large flat stone, setting a percussion cap in its midst, and covering the whole with dry leaves. A smart strike on the cap with a hammer will have the desired result, and by heaping additional fuel on the blazing leaves the fire soon reaches large proportions. If the young trapper should ever be so unfortunate as to find himself in the wild woods, chilled and hungry, minus matches, powder, caps, and sun glass, he may as a last resort try the following : Scrape some lint or cotton from some portion of the garment, or some FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 235 tinder from a dry stick, and lay it on the surface of some rough rock, white quartz rock if it can be found. Next procure a fragment of the same stone, or a piece of steel from some one of the traps, and strike its edge sharply, and with a skipping stroke into the further side of the tinder, the direction being such as will send the sparks thus produced into the inflammable material. Continue this operation until the tinder ignites. By now gently fanning the smoking mass it may easily be coaxed into flame. At least so our Adirondack guide told us last sum- mer. The author has never had occasion to test the merits of the plan for himself, and has no special desire of being so placed, as that his life will hang upon its success. He presents it therefore as a mere suggestion without endorsing its prac- tibility, and would rather prefer matches in the long run. The open fire generally serves both for purposes of warmth and cooking, but by many, a camp stove is considered a great im- provement. Stoves of this character, and for this especial pur- pose, are in the market. They are small and portable, with pipe and furniture, all of which pack away closely into the in- terior. A fire is easily started in one of these stoves, and, by closing the damper, a slow fire may be kept up through the night. The stove is generally set up at the entrance of the tent, the pipe passing through the top, in a hole near the ridge pole. The furniture consists of three pots or kettles, which pack easily into each other, and when in the stove still leave ample room for a considerable amount of provisions. The kettles are made of block-tin, and frying-pans also, as these are much more light and portable than those made of iron. The lid may be used as a plate, and for this purpose the han- dle consists of an iron ring, which will fold flat against the surface when inverted. Knives, forks, and spoons are easily stowed away in the stove or knapsack, and a coffee-pot should always be carried. There is a knife known as the combination camp-knife, which is much used by hunters and trappers, and contains a spoon, fork, knife, and various other useful append- ages, in a most compact form. It costs from one to two dollars. For provisions, potatoes will be found excellent, both on ac- count of their portabihty and the variety of ways in which they may be served. They are healthy and nutritious, and always palatable. Beans are also very desirable for the same reasons. Wheat flour will form a valuable addition to the trapper's larder, and particularly so, if the "self-raising " kind can be had. This 236 THE CAMPAIGN. flour contains all the required ingredients for light bread and biscuit, and is sold by grocers generally, in packages of various sizes, with accompanying recipes. We strongly recommend it where a stove is employed ; and to any one who is fond of bis- cuit, bread, or pancakes, it Avill be appreciated. Butter, lard, sugar, salt, pepper and mustard are valuable accessories, and curry-powder, olive oil, and vinegar will often be found useful. Olive oil is often used by camping parties with the curry powder, and also as a substitute for lard in the frying-pan. Pork, Indian meal and crackers, wheaten grits, rice, and oat-meal are desira- ble, and coffee and tea are great luxuries. For soups, Liebig's extract of beef is a most valuable article, and with the addition of other ingredients, vegetables or meat, the result is a most delicious and nutritious dish. This extract is obtainable at almost any grocer's, and full directions and recipes accompany each jar. Canned vegetables are much to be desired on ac- count of their portability, and are never so delicious as when cooked over a camp fire. Lemonade is always a luscious bev- erage, but never so much so as to a thirsty trapper. A few lemons are easily carried and will repay the trouble. All provisions, such as meal, flour, sugar, salt, crackers, and the like, should be enclosed in water-proof canvas bags, and labelled. The bags may be rendered water-proof either by painting, (in which case no lead or arsenic paints should be used) or by dipping in the preparation described on page 247. If these are not used, a rubber blanket, page 250, may be sub- stituted, the eatables being carefully wrapped therein, when not in use. The butter and lard should be put up in air-tight jars, and should be kept in a cool place, either on the ground in a shady spot, or in some cool spring. For a campaign on foot, the knapsack, or shoulder-basket, already alluded to on page 234, is an indispensable article. It should be quite large and roomy, say fifteen inches in depth and ten by twelve inches in its other dimensions. The material should be canvas, rubber cloth, or wicker, and, in any case, the opening at the top should have a v/ater-proof covering ex- tending well over the sides. The straps may consist of old suspender bands, fastened crosswise on the broad side of the bag. The capacity of such a knapsack is surprising, and the actual weight of luggage seems half reduced when thus carried on the shoulders. When three or four trappers start together, which is the usual custom, and each is provided with such a shoulder basket, the luggage can be thus divided, and the load for each individual much liditened. FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 237 Venison is the trapper's favorite food, and in mild weather it sometimas happens that tlie overplus of meat becomes tainted before it can be eaten. To overcome this difficulty the following process is resorted to, for the preservation of the meat, and the result is the well-known and high-priced " jerked venison " of our markets. The flesh is first cut into small, thin strips, all the meat being picked off from the bones. The pieces are then placed on the inside of the hide of the animal and thor- oughly mixed with salt, a pint and a half being generally suffi- cient. The salt being well worked in, the fragments should be carefully wrapped in the hide, and suffered to remain in this condition for two or three hours. The meat is then ready to be dried, — "jerked." Four forked poles should be first driven into the ground, about six feet apart, in the form of a square, the forks being four feet above ground. Lay two poles of green wood across the forks on the two opposite sides of the square, and cover the space between them by other poles laid across them, an inch or two inches apart. On to this mammoth gridiron the strips of flesh should now be spread, and a steady fire of birch or other clean, fresh wood should be kept steadily burning be- neath for about twenty-four hours. At the end of this time the meat will have reduced much in size and weight. The salt will have been thoroughly dried in^ and the flesh so prepared maybe kept for almost any length of time. In its present condition it is excellent eating, and it is always at hand for frying, and may be cooked in a variety of ways. Moose and bear meat may be dried in a similar manner, using a proportionate amount of salt. Fish may also be prepared in the same way, for which purpose they should be scaled as usual and afterward spread open by cutting down the back, the bone being removed. We cor- dially recommend this method of preparing both flesh and fish, and no trapper's " recipe book " is complete without it. In localities where wolves abound, the nocturnal invasions of these creatures often render the keeping of fresh meat a very difficult task, and in this connection it may be well to give di- rections for the preservation of game desired to be used either as fresh meat or for purposes of drying. The spring-pole is most commonly and successfully used. Select some stout sapHng, bend it down, and cut off a limb several feet from the ground. Hang the meat in the crotch thus formed, and allow the tree to swing back. By dividing the meat into several parts it may thus all be protected. When 238 THE CAMPAIGN. a moose or deer is killed at such a time or place, or under such circumstances as render its immediate dressing impossible, its carcass may be defended against mutilation by another means. Wolves are naturally sly and sagacious, and have a wholesome fear of a trap. Any unnatural arrangement of logs and stones immediately excites their suspicion, and the trapper takes ad- vantage of this wary peculiarity to good purpose. Laying his dead game near some fallen tree or old log he strews a few branches over the carcass, or perhaps rests a log over it. Some- times he hangs the entrails of the animal over the body, on a forked stick, any one of which devices is said to have the de- sired result. The wolverine is another pest to the trapper, and not being so sly as the wolf, never hesitates to pounce upon any flesh within its reach. The former method, therefore, is always the safest plan for absolute protection against all animals. The moose and deer are the favorite food of trappers in the country where these animals abound, and the trappers of the Far West find in the flesh of the Moufflon, or Rocky Moun- tain sheep, a delicacy which they consider superior to the finest venison. The prong-horn antelope of the Western plains is another favorite food-animal with hunters, and the various "small game," such as squirrels, rabbits, woodchucks, etc., are by no means to be despised. The author once knew a trapper who was loud in his praises of " skunk meat " for food, and many hunters can testify to its agreeable flavor when properly dressed and cooked. It is hard, to be sure, to get up much en- thusiasm over a skunk, dead or alive, but where other food is not to be had we would discourage the young trapper from being too fastidious. The buffalo, or bison, is the great resource of the trappers of the West. The tongue, tenderloin and brisket are generally preferred, but all the meat is eatable. The flesh of the cow is best. It much resembles beef, but has a more gamey flavor. In winged game there is no food superior to the flesh of the grouse, and the great number of the species and wide range of territory which they inhabit render them the universal food game of traj> pers throughout the world. The ruffed grouse or partridge, pinnated grouse or prairie hen, spruce or Canada grouse, and the cock-of-the-plains or sage cock, are familiar American exam- ples of the family, and their near relatives, the ptarmigans, afford a valuable source of food to the trappers and hunters, as well as general inhabitants of our northern cold countries. Here they are known as " snow grouse," and there are several spe- FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 239 cies. The willow ptarmigan is the most common, and in some localities exists in almost incredible numbers. Flocks number- ing several thousand have been frequently seen by travellers in the Hudson's Bay territory ; and the surface of the snow in a desirable feeding ground, is often completely covered by the birds, in quest of the willow tops, which form their chief food during the winter season. The Indians and natives secure the birds in large numbers, by the trap described on pa^e 75, and Hearne, the traveller and explorer of the Hudson's 'Bay region, asserts that he has known over three hundred to be thus caught in a single morning, by three persons. Of water fowl, ducks and geese are especially to be recom- mended. The former are hunted with decoys and boats, and are sometimes trapped, as described on pages 94. The species are distinguished as sea ducks and river or inland ducks. The latter are considered the most desirable for food, being more delicate and less gamey in flavor than the salt-water, or fish-eating varieties. The mallard, teal, muscovy, widgeon, and wood-duck are familiar species of the inland birds, and the merganser and canvass-back are the two most esteemed salt-water varieties. Wild geese are common throughout North America, and may be seen either in the early spring or late fall migrating in immense numbers. They form a staple article of food in many parts of British America, and great numbers are salted down for winter supply. They are trapped in large numbers, as described on page 75, and are hunted with tame geese as decoys, the hunter being secreted behind a screen or covert, and attracting the game by imitating their cries. Fish form an agreeable change to the trapper's diet, and may be caught by the hook and Hne, or by spearing. The latteV method requires considerable practice and skill, but is very suc- cessful. The Indians of the North are great experts in the use of the spear, and the number of salmon taken by them annu- ally is enormous. The spear generally consists of five or six steel prongs an inch apart and barbed at the ends. It is mounted on a heavy handle, and when it strikes its victim its grip is sure death. The spearing is generally performed either at the spawning beds or at the falls. Salmon trout are generally speared in the night time by boat, the spawning ground, generally a gravel bank near the shore, be- ing the seat of operations. A fire of pitch pine and birch bark is ignited on an elevated ''jack" in the bow of the boat, the "jack" consisting of an ox-muzzle, or other concave wire con- 240 THE CAMPAIGN. trivance which will hold the inflammable materials. This is se- cured to a post or crotched stick, as a prop, and the spearman stands near the burning mass with his spear in readiness. As his companion in the stern of the boat paddles, he keenly watches for his victim, and, seeing his opportunity, makes his lunge and lands his prize. To become a successful spearman requires much practice and no small degree of skill. To retain one's balance, acquire quickness of stroke, and withal to regulate the aim so as to allow for the refraction of the light in the water, all tend to invest the sport with a degree of skill which only experience can master. Fishing through the ice in winter is a rare sport, and large numbers of brook and lake trout are often taken at this season by cutting holes through the ice and fishing with hook and line. The baits commonly used consist of cow's udder or hog's liver, these being especially jDreferred on account of their toughness. Angle worms are also excellent, and any kind of raw meat may be used if other bait is not to be had. It is asserted by some sportsmen that bait scented with assa- foetida is much more attractive to the fish, and will insure a cap- ture which would otherwise be impossible. Sweet cicily and anise are also used for the same purpose. When the trout bite lively, fishing through the ice is a most exciting sport, and by the aid of ^'tip-ups" a single person may command a great num- ber of lines. The winter resort of the brook trout is in water two or three feet deep, over sandy beds. The lake trout fre- quent deeper water. The holes are made in the ice at intervals of one or two rods, and a line set in each hole. The " tip-up " consists of a narrow strip of lath or shingle, with a hole bored through it near the large end. At this end the line is attached, and the hook thrown in the water. A branch is now inserted through the aperture, and its ends are rested across the opening in the ice. No sooner does the fish bite than the long end tips straight in the air, and thus betrays its captive. Ten or fifteen of these contrivances will often keep one pretty busy, and do good service. By some an ordi- nary cut fish pole, arranged on a crotch, is used instead of the tip-ups just described. Pickerel fishing through the ice is a favorite winter sport in many localities. The line should be about thirty feet in length, and the bait should consist of a small, live fish, hooked through the back. A small cork float should be attached to the line at such a distance as will keep FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 241 the bait above the bottom, and the superfluous line should be laid in a loose coil near the hole, the end being attached to a small switch or bush, stuck up in the ice near by. The pick- erel, on taking the bait, should be allowed to play out the whole line before being pulled in, as the fish requires this time to fully swallow his prey, after which the hook is sure to hold him firmly. Twenty or thirty lines may thus be attended at once, the bush or twig acting the part of a tii>up, or sentinel. Pickerel spearing is another successful mode of capture dur- ing the winter months. A large hole is made in the ice, in about two feet of water, and covered by a spacious box or board hut, six or seven feet square, and provided with a door. The spearman, concealed within, lowers his bait, consisting of an artificial fish with silver fins, made especially for the purpose. This he continually twirls in the water, and as the pickerel ap- proaches the bait, he gradually raises it, until the fish is decoyed nearly to the surface of the water, when a quick stroke of the spear secures his victim, and the fine is again lowered. This is capital sport, and is very successful. There is a very curious device for fishing by night commonly employed by some anglers, and sometimes known as the "lantern, or fish trap." Many kinds of fish are attracted by alight, but to use a light as a bait, submerged beneath the water, certainly seems odd. It may be done, however, in the following way : The "fish lantern" used for this purpose consists of a bottle containing a solution of phosphorus in sweet oil. Procure a piece of the stick phosphorus the size of a small cherry, and submerging in a saucer of water, proceed to cut it into small pieces. Have in readiness a three-ounce white glass bottle half filled with sweet oil. Drop the pieces of phosphorus into the oil and cork the bottle tightly. In the space of a few hours the phosphorus will have been completely dissolved, and the con- tents of the bottle will present a thick, luminous fluid, which in a dark room, will afford considerable light. This is the fish lantern. To use it, the cork is firmly inserted and the bottle, with fish line attached, is lowered through the hole in the ice. The water becomes luminous for several feet around, and the unusual brightness attracts the fish in large numbers. ^ They are plainly, discernible, and are readily dispatched with the spear, or captured by a circular net, sunk on the bottom, be- neath the luminous bait. This is certainly an odd way of catch- ing fish, but it is often a very efficacious method. It has not been our intention to enter very extensively into 242 THE CAMPAIGN. the subject of fishing, but only to give such hints as will be found especially useful and practical to the trapper in relation to his food. The above methods, together with those of troll- ing and fly-fishing, are those most commonly employed by trap- pers and hunters generally, and we commend them to the amateur. We give, on page 120, a unique device for the capture of fish, which might also be found useful. With the above general remarks on the campaign, together with what follows in the detailed articles on the subject, we think that the ground will have been completely covered. Every possible requirement has been anticipated, and every ordinary emergency forseen and provided against. THE trapper's SHELTER. The life of the professional trapper is a life of hardship and severe exposure, and a man not only requires considerable cour- age, but also great bodily vigor, in order to combat successfully the dangers of such a wild, adventuresome existence. The cold and the storm not only imperil his life, but he is often exposed to the attacks of wild beasts. A shelter, there- fore, in one form or another, becomes a necessity while it is always a decided comfort, in comparison to a campaign with- out it. The reader will find below descriptions of the various shel- ters alluded to in other parts of this work, and used by trappers throughout the land. The most substantial of these is the log shanty, commonly known among trappers as the "home shanty,'^ on account of its being constructed as the only permanent shelter on the trap- ping line. It is used as a "home," a place of rendezvous, and a store- house for provisions, furs, and other necessities and valuables. Other temporary shelters, known as bark shanties, are also con- structed along the trapping lines at intervals of five or ten miles, as resting places. These we describe under the proper title. Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likely to become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe its mode of construction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventur- ous readers, who aspire to a full taste of wild life. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty. It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve THE TRAPPER S SHELTER. 243 The Home Shanty. 244 THE CAMPAIGN., by ten feet will be found large enough for ordinary purposes. Select straight logs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole ■number required will be thirty-six. Of these one-half should be twelve feet in length and the other ten. These should now be built up in the square form, on a level piece of ground, laying the ends of the logs over each other, and securing them by notches at the corners, so deep as to allow the edges of the logs to meet. Lay two short logs first, and continue building until all the thirty-six logs are used, and we will now have four symmetrical sides about six feet in height. The place for the door should now be selected. The uppermost log should form its upper outline, and the two sides should be cleanly and straightly cut with a cross- cut saw. The window openings, one or more, may next be cut, commencing beneath the second log from the top, and taking in three beneath it. Replace the logs above, and on the ends of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceed to spike a heavy plank, driving two nails into each log, about five inches apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmly in place, and offer a close-fitting jam for the door, and neat receptacle for the window sashes, which latter may now be put in after the ordinary manner. The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides of the hut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as before) across the top of the frame work, and about two feet inside the edge. This should of course be done on both .sides of the hut, after which they should be overlapped at the corners with logs eight feet in length. Next lay two more long logs, parallel with the first two, and about a foot inside them, notching as before. The ends of these should be spanned with beams eight feet in length. Two more long logs are next in order — let them be one foot inside the last two. Overlap these with beams five feet and a half in length, and in the exact centre of these last pieces chop notches for a heavy log for a ridge pole. The gable outline, direct from the ridge pole to the eaves, should now be cut off by the aid of a sharp axe. This may be done either while the pieces are in position, or the line may be marked with a piece of chalk, and the logs taken down in order to accom- plish it. The roof is now required. This should consist either of strips of bark or the rounded sides of logs split off and hol- lowed into troughs. The latter method is preferable, on account of its greater strength and durability, but the bark will answer the purpose very well, and is much more easily obtained. The manner of adjusting the roof pieces is clearly shown in our DARK SHANTY. 245 illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollow side up, securing them at top and bottom by nails driven through each into the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that one of these pieces projects well over the gable, on both ends of the hut. These pieces are now overlapped by the second row, and v/ith the addition of the large piece which covers them all at the ridge pole, the roof is complete, and will stand a heavy rain with little or no leaking. The crevices should now be stopped with moss, dried grass or clay, after which the log cabin is complete. "VV'hen the bark roof is made, additional poles may be inserted beneath as props. They should be three or four inches in diameter, and run parallel with the ridge pole, at intervals on the slope, notches being cut to secure them. Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be con- structed if desired, but the necessity of this may be done away with by using a small camp stove, and making a small opening in the gable end of the hut for the passage of the pipe. If a stove should not be at hand, and our amateur should decide to "rough it" to the full extent, he may build his fire-place and chimney as follows : It v/ill be necessary to cut away an open- ing in the logs at the gable end, as was done for the door and windows. This should be about three feet square, and the fire place should be built of stone and clay, or cement, to till the opening, and project inside the hut. The chininey may then be built up outside in the same man- ner, sufficiently high to overtop the gables. Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the hanging of the skins, and any number of cross-poles may be rested across the beams. There are facilities for the swinging of a hammock, if desired, and, in fact, a hut constructed like the foregoing is a perfect one in its way. There are other methods of building a log cabin, but we will content ourselves with what v/e consider the best way of all, and pass on to the BARK SHANTY. This is made by first driving into the ground two foiked poles seven or eight feet in height and stout enough to sustain a ridge pole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other poles should be rested at intervals of two feet, and sloping to the angle of forty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed should' now be covered with bark, commencing at the ground and allowing the edge of each piece to overlap the one beneath 17 24^ THE CAMPAIGN. after the manner of shingles, in order to shed the rain in case of storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose, and the pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by the weight of another series of poles rested against them. The sides of the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being usually left open to face the fire, which the trapper generally builds a few feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is well to select some spot protected from the wind, close to the foot of a mountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the open side face the direction most sheltered. If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the sides and top, but this is not required where the fire is used. This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this section, and certainly looks very comfortable. TENTS. Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old veteran trappers of all countries, and even to the amateur there is a charm in a shelter constructed from the rude materials of the woods which the portable tents do not possess. Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and ama- teurs, and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the trapper's outfit, and where time is valuable, do away with the labor which the construction of a hut or shanty involves. Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by the trapper are the house-tent, fly-tent, and half-tent, or shelter- tent. The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, closed on one end and buttoning up at the other. The sides are perpendicular for two or three feet, before the slope commences, and the stay-ropes are fastened to the eaves. The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, with ropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown over a ridge pole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sides are held to the proper slope by tightening and pegging the side ropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which can be lowered, and the whole tent may be pegged close to the ground. The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, the bark shanty already described. It consists of a strip of canvas, having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched over three slanting poles, and the ends are brought down and securely pegged. This is clearly shown in our illustration. TENTS. 247 We do not propose giving any extended directions for mak- ing tents, as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a general thing, can be bought for a figure which would render their do- mestic manufacture of little saving or profit. The shelter-tent, however, is so useful an affair, and withal so very simple made, that we will give a few directions in regard to its manu- facture. It should be made from stout cotton drilling, or very heavy sheeting. Let the piece be about thirteen feet in length by six in width. Each end of the piece should now be cut to a rectangular point, commencing to cut at a distance of three feet from each corner. In order to render the cloth water- proof, it should now be dipped in a pail containing a solution of equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a couple of handfuls of each, in tepid water. It should be allowed to remain several minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally, after which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment not only renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum tends to make it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a tent thus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth until it goes out, without doing the slightest damage. 248 THE CAMPAIGN. The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, and is clear from our illustration. The poles should be three or four in number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the ground at the angle denoted. The two outside poles should be seven feet apart, and the intermediate ones equally disposed. The tent piece should now be laid over the poles, and the ends brought down and pegged to the ground at the apex, and rear comers of each side through loops, which should have been previously attached to these parts. A tent, thus arranged, affords a safe shelter from the wind or a moderate storm, and with a bright fire in front, is warm and comfortable. BEDS AND BEDDING. Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely rolling himself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow ; but we do not propose to encourage or recommend any such half- way comfort as this, when by a very little labor a portable bed can be prepared on which the weary hunter can rest as serenely as if slumbering on the congenial softness of a hair mattrass. A bed of this kind we illustrate, and it can be made in the fol- lowing manner : Procure a large piece of canvas, sacking or other strong, coarse material six and a half feet square. If a single piece of this size cannot be found, several parts may he sewed together to the required dimensions. After which two opposite s]^s should be firmly stitched together, thus forming BEDS AND BEDDING. 249 a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to use the expression. Two stout poles seven or eight feet in length and as large as the wrist should now be cut. Insert them through the bag, allow- ing the ends to project equally on each side. These ends should now be rested on two logs, one placed across each end of the canvas. In order to hold the poles in place notches should be cut in the logs at such distances as will draw the bag to its full width. The interior of the canvas should now be filled with dried grass, leaves, moss or spruce boughs, after which the bedstead and bed is complete. The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the warm filling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and straw mattrass combined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp ground, and by the addition of a blanket above, insuring warmth on all sides. If the logs are not at hand four forked stakes may be used, driving them firmly into the ground at such distances as will draw the bag to its full width, when the poles are rested upon them. If by the weight of the body the forked props should tend to incline towards each other this trouble may be easily remedied by inserting short poles as braces between them. If desired a bed of this kind may be used as a hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble. It is only necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their full width by a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter be deeply notch- ed at the tips in order to receive the bed supports. The joints should then be tightly bound with stout twine in order to pre- vent shpping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-air by ropes at each end, and the tired trapper may swing himself to sleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the ropes should be attached at the joints, using a loop of six feet for each end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be made by doubling the rope and winding twine about it, leaving only a small aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of other ropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this pre- caution the unpleasant experience of being turned or dumped out of bed will be impossible. For bed clothes a woollen blanket should always be carried, and if convenient a large bag of thick Canton flannel is a most excellent acquisition. Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, hunters and camping parties, and are very warm and comfort- able. They should be nearly seven feet in length and of a *" loose, easy fit." With one of these contrivances it is impos- sible to " kick the clothes off" and the warmth is continual in- 250 THE CANPAIGN. stead of " intermittent," and even on the bare ground it is said to be sufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general use, but we can confidently recommend the suspended bed above described as decidedly preferable. There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the light fibred silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the large corded variety of several pounds weight and capable of holding many persons. They are an established article of trade, and as the details of their manufacture would be of little practical use to the reader, we will leave them without further consideration. They can be had at almost any sporting emporium, at com- paratively small cost. TENT CARPETING. We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bed- stead and recommend its use v/henever possible ; but when the bed is desired to be made on the ground the following method is usually employed, by which the whole interior of the tent, hut or shanty is carpeted with a soft, even covering of green. Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be from the tips of the branches where the wood is not too large. Commence at the back part of the shelter, and lay doAvn a row of the boughs with the butt of the branch towards the front. Overlap these with another nearer row and continue the opera- tion, laying the evergreen as evenly as possible until the whole interior is smoothly covered. The projecting ends at the front, should now be secured by the weight of a medium sized log, or by a pole pegged down firmly at intervals. A similar log should now be laid at the back portion of the shelter over the tips of the boughs after which the bed is complete, and will be found easy and comfortable in proportion to the care and skill shown in its construction. A blanket should be thrown over the boughs before reclining to rest, as the fresh green gives forth considerable dampness. If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. These consist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one side with Indian rubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They are warm and comfortable, and a valuable acquisition to the trapper's outfit. There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having equal water-proof qualities but which does not possess the warmth of the former. Either will be found useful. So much for beds and bedding. If the reader will now turn TENT CARPETING. 25' his attention to the following section, ^'The Trapper's Miscel- lany," he will find much in detail of«what has only been alluded to in the present chapter, besides other hints of great value In reference to a trapping campaign. BOOK VIII. THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY. UR enthusiastic novice, as he starts out into the wilderness, should not be unmindful of the swarms of blood-thirsty flies, gnats and mosqui- toes, which infest the woods in the summer and early autumn, and are there lying in wait for him. These often become a source of great annoyance to the woodsman, and more often a source of positive bodily suffering. Although trapping is not generally carried on during this season, the preparations for the com- ing campaign, including the building of shanties, transporting of traps, etc., are generally made at this time, and unless some perventive is used, the persecutions of the mosquitoes and other winged vermin, become almost unbearable. INSECT OINTMENTS. These insects seem to have a special aversion for the scent of pennyroyal — an herb growing commonly in sandy localities — and a single plant rubbed upon the face and hands will often greatly check their attacks. The oil of pennyroyal is better, however, and an ointment made by straining one ounce of the oil into two or three ounces of pure melted lard, or mutton tallow, forms an excellent anti- dote. This may be carried in a little box or bottle, in the pocket, and applied as occasion requires. Plain mutton tallow is also a most excellent ointment for general use, and in the case of bruises or slight wounds, will give great relief. Another preparation in very common use amongst hunters and woodsmen, although not quite as agreeable in odor, consists of a mixture of common tar and sweet oil, in equal parts. By some this liniment is considered superior to the other, inasmuch as it also prevents tanning, and is beneficial to the complexion. 2:5 256 THE trapper's MISCELLANY. During the night time, the tent or shanty often becomes swarmed with the winged pests, and their nocturnal assaults are proverbial for their pertinacity and severity. Their thirst for blood overcomes every other instinct, and pennyroyal often ceases to have any effect. Our Adirondack guide, in narrating his expe- rience with these insect vampires, even says that on a cer- tain night, becoming exasperated at their indomitable persever- ance, and, getting tired of the monotonous occupation of spread- ing ointment, he arose, lit his candle, and drove the creatures out of the tent. He then buttoned up the opening, and retired to rest. A storm came up in the night, and so completely had his canvas been riddled by the bills of the mosquitoes, that the rain poured through his tent as through a sieve. We have heard of the man who, when pursued by hungry mosquitoes, took refuge beneath a large chaldron, and, by the aid of a stone, clinched the blood-thirsty bills as they protru- ded in quest of his hfe-blood, until, by the united efforts of the winged captives, the chaldron was lifted and wafted out of sight, as if it were a feather. One story is just as true as the other, and a summer in the Adirondack woods will tend to strengthen, rather than diminish, the behef in either. The smoke of smouldering birch bark will effectually drive away the mosquitoes from the tents at night. This method is commonly known as " the smudge,"' and is more fully described in another part of this work. The smell of the smoke is often unpleasant at first, but it is always preferable to the insect bites. Mosquitoes are not the only vampires which infest our wooded lands. The "punkeys" and " midgets " can outstrip t^.iemfor voracity, and the painful character of the wound which they in- flict. The "punkey," or "black-fly," as it is called, is a small, black gnat, about the size of a garden ant, and the bite of the insect often results very seriously. The midget is a minute lit- tle creature, and is the most everlastingly sticky and exasperat- ing pest in the catalogue of human torments. They fly in swarms of thousands, and go for tlieir victim " en masse" and the face, hands and neck are soon covered as if with " hay seed." They stick where they first light, and commence 0])era- tions immediately. All endeavors to shake them off are fruit- less, and their combined attacks are soon most painfully reahzed. Their bites produce great redness and swelling, and the itching is most intolerable. Happily for the v/oodsman, the "smudge " INSECT OINTMENTS. 257 and pennyroyal ointment are effectual preventives against the attacks of both midgets and black flies, as well as mosqui- toes : and no one who values his life or good looks should ven- ture on a woodland excursion in the summer months without a supply of this latter commodity. In conclusion, we would re- mark that, to the mosquito the blood of the intemperate seems to have a special attraction, and any one who wishes to enjoy comparative freedom from the attacks of these pests, should abstain from the use of alcoholic stimulants. It is a too preva- lent idea among trappers that whiskey and rum are necessary adjuncts to a trapping campaign, and many a trapper would about as soon think of leaving his traps at home as his whisky bottle. This is all a mistake. Any one who has not sufficient strength of constitution to withstand the hardships and expo- sures of a trapping life, without the especial aid of stimulants, should stay at home. We are now alluding to the habitual use of such stimulants. It is always well to be provided with a flask of wliisky or brandy, in case of illness, but it should only be re- sorted to in such an event. For a mere chill, we recommend the use of red pepper tea. A simple swallow of this drink, (made simply by soaking a red pepper in a cup of hot water) will restore warmth much quicker than three times the amount of any alcoholic stimulant. It is not our purpose to extend into a lengthened temperance lecture, but only to discourage the wide-spread idea that stimulants ^lxq necessities in the life of the trapper. Midg- ets, mu^> qui toes and punkeys de- light over a victim with alcohol in his vein>, and while to a healthy subject the bites are of only brief annoyance, to the intemperate they often result in painful, obstinate sores. In addition to the various oint- ments used, it is well to be pro- vided with a head-net, such as we illustrate. Nets of this kind are specially made for sportsmen, and consist of a spiral wire frimework, covered with mosquito netting, and of such a size an to slip easily on the head. z^S THE TRAPPER S MISCELLANY. They are easily made, as our engraving would indicate. A netting attachment for the hat is also an acquisition, espe- cially in open woods, free from overhanging branches or dense thickets. Such a netting may be secured to the edge of the hat brim, and gathered with an elastic at the lower edge. This elastic will close snugly around the neck when in use, and at other times may be drawn above the brim and allowed to rest on top of the crown. The portable hat brim, which we illustrate, is an article of trade in common use among sportsmen, and particularly the angler. Our engraving (a) shows the article separate. It is made of cloth, and is kept in its circular shape by a steel spring band at the circumference, between the two sides. It may be attached to any hat, and will act as a most effec- tual shelter to the rays of a hot sun. The netting above allu- ded to may be attached to such a brim, and applied to the edge of the hat when desired. This is shown at (d), which also indicates the manner of adjustment of the brim. Such a brim "will often do good service, and may be obtained at al- most any sporting emporium at trifling cost. It is porta- ble in every sense of the word, being easily bent and packed away in the pocket. " DUG OUT," OR LOG CANOE. 259 BOAT BUILDING. Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes aid rivers, a boat oi some kind becomes almost a positive necessity. The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhaps the most common form of the "rough and ready " order of boats, is that called the — "DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE. It's general appearance is well indica-t^r^ ted by the accompanying illustration, fjj With the proper tools, one of these ca- noes is easily made. A sharp axe, an ' ^^i^^affll|||N||||{JBff/^^ adze, a shaving knife, a round edged adze, and a small auger, are principally * necessary ; and a cross-cut saw, broad- axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will also be found useful. In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter, perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this precaution is observed, the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the -Mj_ canoe can be cut so tliin, as to render it 3*j&Bllll|l|B>?" a light burden ; being easily carried on "^^■||1B^^^^^ the shoulders. A pine log is generally chosen for a dugout, on account of the lightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can 1 :e worked. Butternut, cotton- wood and white wood, are also excellent, ^ and indeed almost any sound log of y)f| large size will answer the purpose. ^ * ' For a dug-out of good size, the log * ^^^HIE^ should be ten or more feet in length. The first thing to be done is to cut a ^JIP^C?''^^ flat surface on one side of the log, from " "" "^ ' €nd to end. This indicates the bottom * ^' ' '^.j-^ of the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn away, in the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration. 26o BOAT-BUILDING. It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths. In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a straight line to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. The gradual curve to the bow and stern of the canoe should start from each end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log, the guiding line being made on the sides of the log by a piece of chalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood on these curves. AVhen this upper outhne is accomplished, the log may be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities rounded off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed, the bottom curves should be made by chopping away the wood in the curves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curve should also be marked out with chalk, and should commence a little nearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. Shave off the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern. The rough form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid of the draw- knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly finished. It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful for this purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge and chisel. The digging out is of course the most tedious part ; but with sharp tools it is a comparatively easy matter. When the great bulk of the wood is taken out, the interior should be finshed with a howel or round adze ; and the sides may be worked to one inch and a half in thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these canoes of most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness, and so light as to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course such perfection as this is fiot necessary for ordinary purposes ; although where the canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, it is well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger may be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the wood is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of the canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger barely makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if the thickness measures more than is required, insert into the hole a slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length ; push it in as far as it will go, and you may safely work until you reach the end of it. By this method the thick- ness may be gauged in different parts of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness, and there is no danger of THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE. 26 1 cutting through. The gimlet should be allowed to extend out- side of the canoe only sufficiently to be detected, and the holes thus made will seldom give any trouble as leaks. If, however, this should be the case, a little putty or pitch will remedy the difficulty. The "dug-out" maybe constructed of any size, and of any desired shape, but the above is the usual type. When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, and smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly water- proof. For lightness and portabihty there is no boat more desirable or more unique than — THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE. Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees at- tain a large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is at hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected to attain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit in the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed sufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indian canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength and lightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as nat- urally to the making of these commodities, as if it were almost an hereditary habit with them ; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice, can compete with the Indian in the combined result of strength, lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, which are the united characteristics of the typical bark canoe. The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is about twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired dimensions, to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteen or twenty persons, and may be transported with ease upon the shoulders of two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capable of carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man. In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gun- wale, or upper framework. This should consist of four strips of cedar, ash, or other light, strong wood ; two for each side of the boat. For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be about twelve feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. They should be tied together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairs then joined at the same place. The object of 18 262 BOAT-BUILDING. these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and to offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured between them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready for the birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be in one large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select some large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences. Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cut in the bark through the v/hole length of the piece, after which it should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimes happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single piece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but this is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out, as seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with an awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edge of each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and continue to sew them on until the area of bark measures about four and a half feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark colored sides of the bark all facing the same way. Next select a flat piece of ground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less than the length of tlie gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakes should be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Now turn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, and fold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In this folded condition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between the stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting bark be- yond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered by folding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges firmly to the sides of the rude form of. the canoe, which now presents itself. When this is done, each end should be sup- ported on a log or stone ; this will cause the bottom line to sink downwards at about the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay it in the proper position, fitting the edges of the bark between the two strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a winding stitch, exactly after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf fan. The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long strips of cedar running through the entire length of the boat if possible, but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends. These pieces should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarter to half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These are generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE. 263 a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood will answer the purpose, and even barrel hoops when attainable will do very well. These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of the canoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distances between them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath the gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch through the bark. For a canoe of twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and in order to keep the gunwales firm, two or more cross- pieces should be inserted, and lashed ' firmly at their ends as our illustration 55:5^ shows. The centre third of the length ,Y' of the canoe should be parallel at the '-:^^ sides, and if two braces, two feet in ^ length are placed at each end of this C5v^ third, the shape will be about perfect. v-^\^ We now have a bark canoe of consid- ' erable strength and durabiHty, and .^ it only awaits to be made water-proof ^^ for final use. In order to accomplish v^ this all the seams outside, and the "''* entire interior of the canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its • floating qualities may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur their where-abouts are easily detected, and an additional application of pitch will remedy the difficulty. The In- dians in sewing their bark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, in lieu of thread, and even with these inferior materials often attain to such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitch unnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attained by the white man, and the art of making a water-proof canoe, even out of a single piece of bark, is no means an easy task without the aid of tar or pitch. 264 THE trapper's MISCELLANY. For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With the above directions we are sure no one could go actray, and we are equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would pre- sent advantages of lightness and portability which no other style of boat v/ould possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from basswood, hemlock, or spruce bark ; but they are at best, very rude and clumsy in comparison with the birch bark. They are generally made after the principles of the above de- scribed ; either sewing or nailing the edges of the bark together, and smearing every joint and seam profusely with pitch, and add- ing gunwales, lining, and ribs. A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT. The follov/ing gives an easy method of making a light and serviceable bateau, v/hich any boy, with moderate ingenuity or skill, could easily construct : — Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thick- ness, eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in length, which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boards should be well seasoned, and free from knots, and at least one of the sides should be straight. Next, vv^ith the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends of one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (e) repre- senting the forward, (^) the stern. The curve of the bow should commence at about four feet from the end, and take a rounded slope upward, leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board (e). The stern should be cut at the angle shown at (g)y commencing at about two and a half feet from the extrem- ity of the board and continuing upward to about ten inches from the upper edge. The board thus shaped should now be laid evenly on the other, and the outline of the cut portions care- fully scratched upon it, after which the second board should be cut in a similar manner as the first, so as to form an exact du- plicate . This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one over the other, and the exact center of their long edges ascer- tained. Marking off about five inches on each side of this cen- tre on both boards. Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three feet in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end , of this piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each of the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and A LIGHT HOME MADE BOAT. 265 nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite first. We will now leave them and give our at- tention to the bow piece, which is the next re- ^iij quisite. This is shown at {a\ and consists of a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and hewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illus- tration. It should first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being about eight inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should be about eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped off on a line with the under curve of the bows. At about //' ,j'f five inches from the inner face, and on each side, a piece should be sawn out, one inch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which will exactly receive the side-boards of the boat, as seen at {a). The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should be drawn together, fitted in the notches and securely spiked with large nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strength of a boat, and will stand much rough usage. The board for the stern should next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and two feet in length, and should be securely nailed between the ends of the boards' at the stern, as shown at {g\ being afterwards over-' lapped on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows, at (c). The bottom of the boat is now easily made by naihng boards crosswise, sawing j ' off the projecting ends close to the curve of the: 11' side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in place, the seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel, or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should now be put in, as these are j not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity, acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be two in number, one being placed three feet from the stern and the other one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the top of the boat. The seats should be cut at the ends in a curve corres- ponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed, and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat, their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sides of the boat. These "^■ are indicated by the dotted lines (h h) in the diagram. When ' L 2^6 THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY. thus resting they should be securely fastened in place by strong screws, driven through the sides of the boat into their ends {ff\ allow- ing some one to sit on the seat mean- while to keep it in place. Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom of the boat, beneath the seat and un- derneath the seat itself, in order to keep the props in place ; after which the original brace board across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateau is complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comely in shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy. Should a rudder be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of attach- ment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places. These may con- sist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of the boat, as seen in the illustration. In case it may be found difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the boat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, although not as per- fectly. In this case they should first be firmly attached together by cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first put on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left to soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently to com- pletely close the crevices. If, how- ever, the leak should continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked and smeared with pitch. This latter substance is of great value to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction of his shanties and in other various ^^ ways. It will most effectually stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always be applied hot. SNOW-SHOES. 267 THE SCOW. The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or scull- ing ; but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectly straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends, and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinary flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. In many cases a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much more easily made. We have thus described a few of the most common instances of boats used by trappers, and with our full description and il- lustrations no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensable requisite to the trapper, and any one of the foregoing will be found sufficient for all ordinary purposes. A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a pusher or mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole seven or eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with an attachment of the shape of the letter U. This may be con- structed in two pieces, firmly screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and so formed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be found very useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simple pole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at the end will also answer the purpose very well. SNOW-SHOES. These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper where he pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the" prevalence of deep snows. When properly made they permit the wearer to walk over the surface of the snow with perfect ease ; where, without them, travel would be extremely difficult if not impossible. In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and neighboring districts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In the latter localities the " snow-shoe race "forms one of the favor- ite sports of the season, and young and old alike join in its mysteries. Like riding on the velocipede, walking on snow- shoes looks '^ easy enough," but we notice that a few somer- saults are usually a convincing argument that the art is not as simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes is apt 268 THE trapper's MISCELLANY. to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in order to get used to tiie strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarily well-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and practice. There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, they will land you, and they seem to take especial delight in stepping on each other and turning their wearer upside down. The principal secret of success (and one may as well know it at the start, as to learn it at the expense of a pint of snow down his back) consists in taking steps sufficiently long to bring the widest portion of the stepping shoe beyond that of the other, keeping the feet rather far apart and stepping pretty high. By observing these precautions, and trusting in Providence, much embarrassment may be saved, and an hour's effort will thor- oughly tame the unruly appendages, which at best do not per- mit of much grace or elegance of gait. To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute ne- cessity, and trapping in many cases would be impossible with- out them. They are thus brought fully within the scope of our volume, and we give a few simple directions for their manufac- ture. Our illustration gives the correct shape of the shoe. The framework should consist of a strip of ash, hickory or some other elastic wood, bent into the form indicated and wound around the ends with twine or strips of hide. The length of the piece should be about six feet, more or less, in pro- portion to the size of the individual who proposes to wear the shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it may be rendered an easy matter by the application of boiling water. Across the front part two strips of stout leather, or other tough hide, are then fastened, and these further secured together by three or four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows. In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing was made, the net work was constructed from strips of moose hide, which were interlaced much after the manner of an ordi- nary cane-seated chair. Strips of leather, deer skin, or even split cane, above alluded to, may also be used, and the lacing may be either as our illustration represents, or in the simpler rectangular woof seen in ordinary cloth. In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should be wound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwise with strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a con- tinuous security, and the whole interior, with the exception of the space at the front between the cross pieces, should be neatly filled with the next work. It is well to run the first lines SNOW-SHOES. 269 across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the wind- ings of the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter X, the two other cords should be in- terlaced, after the manner shown in the cut. This forms a secure and not very complicated network, and is the style usually adopted by the In- dian makers. There is another mode of attach- ing the lace-work to the bow which is also commonly employed, and con- sists in a series of holes bored at regular intervals through the wood. The winding is thus dispensed with, but the bow is sometimes weakened by the operation, and we are inclined to recommend the former method in preference. In attaching the shoe, the ball of the foot should be set on the second cross piece, and there se- cured by a strip of hide, which should be first adjusted as seen in the en- graving, being afterward tied over the foot and then behind the ankle. Snow-shoes are made in other ways, but we believe that the typical Indian snow-shoe above described is the best. THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE. For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in the world than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a winter campaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and without it the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty in getting their furs to market. All through the winter season the various trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbers of Indian trappers, many of whom have travelled hundreds of miles on their snow-shoes with their 270 THE TRAPPERS MISCELLANY. heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at their market they sell or trade their stock of furs, and likewise dispose of their tobog- gans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aid them in their long tramp homewards. In Canada and northward the toboggan is in ver}^ extensive use, both for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly met with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especially appreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coasting over the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sled like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall de- scribe will easily accommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snow with great ease and rapidity. To the trap- per it is especially valuable for all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests upon the surface of the snow, and the v/eight being thus distributed a load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but little impression and can be drawn v/ith marvellous ease. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in the following Avay: the first requisite is a board about eight feet in length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board may be procured at any saw- mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose, although hick- ory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should be planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch, and should be free from knots. If a single board of the required width is not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured side by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in the mid- dle, using wTouifrht nails and clinching them deeply into the board on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred, if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board. Four old broom-sticks, cu!^, in the required lengths, will answer THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE. 27 1 this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are next needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in thickness exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs of leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With these in readiness we may now commence the work of putting the parts together. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances along the board ; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces, as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four holes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of each cross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well to mark with a pencil, the va- rious points for the holes, after which the sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed. The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to mark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to make other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen in the illustration. The line on these can also be marked with the pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. 1 hese should also be an inch apart, and only tw^o in number at each point, one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made the board should be turned over, in order to complete preparations on the other side. The object of these various holes is for the passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securing the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to pre- vent these loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should next be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather string to sink into the weed, where it is securely pro- tected from injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the making of the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplished with this than w^ith the jack-knife. When the under side is thus finished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces and sides again arranged in place as already de- scribed. Secure the pieces to the board by the leather strings through the various holes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care that the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces will require a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, in order to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown in the small diagram {a). The front end of each side piece underneath should now be sharpened to a point,to allow for the bend at the front of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should be secured to the under side of the board, so that as it bends over it will appear on the upper edge, as our 272 THE TRAPPERS MISCELLANY. illustration shows. The board should next be bent with a grace- ful curve, and thus held in position by a lope or strip of leather at each extremity of the end cross piece and attached to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving. If the bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board, the application of boiUng water will render it pliable. The draw strings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece, and our toboggan is now complete. It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of merchandize and will be found to draw over the surface of the snow with perfect ease. For coasting over the crust there is nothing like it. Such a toboggan as we have described will easily accommodate three boys, the one at the stern being provided with a sharp stick for steering, and the front occupant holding firmly to the draw strings. The toboggan is easily made, and will do good service either for traffic or sport. CURING SKINS. This department of the trapper's art is one of the most im- portant and necessary, as affecting pecuniary profits. The value of a skin in the fur market depends entirely upon the care with which it is taken from the animal and afterward prepared, and without a knowledge on this subject the young trapper will in vain seek for high prices for his furs. Large quantities of valuable skins are sent to our markets annually by inexperi- enced amateur trappers, and in many cases rare and beautiful furs have been almost spoiled by want of care in skinning and curing. The rules are simple and easily followed, a little care being all that is necessary to insure most perfect success. In every case the skin should be removed shortly after death, or at least before it has become tainted with decay. Great pains should be taken in skinning. Avoid the adherence of flesh or fat to the skin, and guard against cutting through the hide, as a pierced skin is much injured in value. The parts about the eyes, legs and ears should be carefully removed. The various methods of skinning are described in our section on trapping, and in all cases the furs should be allowed to dry in a cool, airy place, free from the rays of the sun or the heat of a fire, and protected from rain. Astnngent preparations of various kinds are used by many trappers, but they are by no means necessary. The most common dressing consists of equal parts of rock salt and alum, dissolved in water. Into this a sufficient amount of coarse flour STRETCHERS. 273 or wheat bran is stirred to give the mixture the consistency of batter, after which it is spread thickly over the skin and allowed to dry. It is afterwards scraped off, and in some cases a second ap- plication is made. This preparation is much used in dressing beaver, otter, mink and muskrat skins, but as many of our most successful and experienced trappers do without it, we fail to see the advantage of using it, as it is only an extra trouble. The simplest and surest v/ay is to stretch the skin and to submit it to a gradual process of natural drying Avithout any artificial heat or application of astringents to hasten the result. A very common mode of stretching skins consists in tacking them to a board, with the fur inwards, and allowing them to dry as already described. This method does very well for small skins, but for general purposes the " stretchers " are the only means by which a pelt may be properly cured and prepared. STRETCHERS. The board stretcher is the simplest form and is in most com- mon use among trappers for the smaller animals. These stretch- ers are of two kinds, the plain and the wedged. The plain stretcher consists of a piece of board a quarter of an inch in thickness, about eighteen inches long and six inches in width. One end of this board is rounded off, as seen in our illustration, and the sides should also be whittled and smoothed to a blunt edge. The board stretchers are used only for those skins which are taken off whole, that is, as described in the chapter on the otter. The skin should be drawn tightly over the blunt end of the board, and its edges either caught in notches cut in the edjres of the square end or secured by a few tacks. This 2 74 THE trapper's MISCELLANY. stretcher is particularly adapted to the skins of muskrats, minks and animals of a like size. They are known in New England as " shingle stretchers," and are much to be recommended on account of their lightness and the ease with which they can be made and carried. The wedge stretcher is rather more elaborate than the fore- going, and is said to be an improvement. The first requisite is a board of about three-eighths of an inch m thickness, tw^o feet or more in length, and three and a half inches at one end tapering to the width of two inches at the other. This end should now be rounded, and the edges of the board whittled off to a blunt edge, as already described in the fore- going, commencing near the centre of the board, and thinning to the edge, and finishing with the notches at the square end. Now, by the aid of a rip-saw, sever the board through the mid- dle lengthwise. The wedge, is the next thing to be constructed, and should consist of a piece of wood the thickness of the centre of the board and of the same length, tapering from an inch in width at one end to half an inch at the other. To use the stretcher the two boards are inserted into the skin, (the latter with the fur side inward). The wedge is then inserted between the large ends of the boards and driven in sufficiently to stretch the pelt to its full capacity, securing it in the notches by slight cuts in the hide, or by a tack or two at the edge. It should then he hung in a cool, airy place, and the pelt left to " season." The bow stretcher is another contrivance very commonly used for small skins like the foregoing. When this is used the pelt should be skinned as described'on page 185, the initial cut com- mencing at the lower jaw and extending down between the fore legs, all the feet being previously cut off. The bow may consist of a switch of any elastic Avood, such as hickory, iron wood, elm or birch. It should be about three or more feet in length, and as large as a man's thumb at the butt end. By bend- ing it in the shape of the letter U it may easily be inserted in THE HOOP STRETCHER. 275 the skin, the latter being fastened by catching the lip on each side into a sliver notch cut on each end of the bow, as our illus- tration indicates. For large animals, such as the deer, bear, beaver, the hoop stretcher is generally employed. THE HOOP STRETCHER. This consists of a hoop made from one or more flexible switches tied together so as to form a circle. In order to be adapted to this mode of stretching, the skin should be flat, /. e. taken off as described on page 172, the initial cut extending from the lower jaw to the vent. The size of the hoop required depends upon the dimensions of the skin. Lay the latter upon some flat surface and so gauge the hoop as that it shall surround the pelt on all sides ; after which the latter should be secured or laced to the hoop with twine at the edges. All loose parts should be drawn up, and the skin should everywhere be stretched hke a drum head. When this is accomplished it is the custom with many trappers to apply the 2^reparation described on page 273, particularly where the skin is thick and fatty. But we are rather disposed to discourage the use of any preparation what- ever, in any case, as they are by no means necessary. In using the board stretchers the fur should ahvays be on the inside, and when the hoop or bow is used it should be placed in such a position that the air may circulate freely on both sides of the skin, which should not be removed until thoroughly dry. 276 TANNING SKINS. TANNING SKINS. m case some of our readers might desire to tan fur skins for their own domestic purposes, the subjoined directions will be found to be reliable, and for all ordinary requirements, suf- ficiently adequate. For tanning with the hair on, the skin should first be cleaned, every particle of loose fat or fiesh, being removed, and the use- less parts cut away. When this is done, it should be soaked for an hour or two in warm water. The following mixture should then be prepared : Take equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and sulphate of soda, and with them mix water sufficient to produce the consistency of thin batter. This preparation should be painted thickly on the flesh side of the skin, after which these sides should be doubled together and the pelt left in an airy place. A second mixture should next be prepared. This should consist of two parts sal soda ; three parts borax ; four parts Castile or other hard soap : all to be melted together over a slow fire. At the end of twenty-four hours, after the applica- tion of the first mixture, the second should be applied in a similar manner, and the fur again folded and left for the same length of time. Next, make a mixture equal parts of salt and alum, dissolved in warm water and thickened with coarse flour to the consistency of thin paste. Spread this thickly over the skin and allow it to dry, after which it should be scraped oft with the bowl of a spoon. The skin should be tightly stretched during the operation, in order to prevent too great shrinkage. A single application of the last-named dressing, is generally sufficient for small skins ; but a second or third treatment may be resorted to if required, to make the skin soft and pliable, after which it should be finished off with sand-paper and pumice stone. A skin may be thus dressed as soft as velvet, and the alum and salt will set the hair securely. The above directions are excellent, for all general purposes, but we subjoin, in addition, a few other valuable hints and spe- cific recipes in common use. Every trapper has his own pecu- liar hobby in regard to his tanning process, and the recipes are various and extensive. The above is one of the most reliable for general use. A common mode of tanning mink and musk- rat skins is given in the following : — TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS. Before tanning, the skin should always be thoroughly cleansed TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS. 277 in warm water, and all fat and superfluous flesh removed. It should then be immersed in a solution made of the following ingredients : Plve gallons of cold soft water ; five quarts wheat bran ; one gill of salt ; and one ounce of sulphuric acid. Allow the skins to soak in the liquid for four or five hours. If the hides have been previously salted, the salt should be excluded from the mixed solution. The skins are now ready for the tanning hquor, which is made in the following way : into five gallons of warm, soft water, stir one peck of wheat bran, and allow the mixture to stand in a warm room until fermentation takes place. Then add three pints of salt, and stir until it is thoroughly dissolved. A pint of sulphuric acid should then be poured in gradually, after which the liquor is ready. Immerse the skins and allow them to soak for three or four hours. The process of '' fleshing " is then to be resorted to. This consists in laying the skin, fur side down, over some smooth beam, and working over the flesh side with a blunt fleshing tool. An old chopping knife, or tin candlestick, forms an excellent substitute for the ordinary fleshing knife, and the process of rubbing should be continued until the skin becomes dry, after which it will be found to be soft and pliable. The skin of the muskrat is quite tender, and the fleshing should be carefully performed. HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN. These should be stretched on a board and smeared with a mixture composed of three ounces each, of salt and alum ; three gills of water, and one drachm of sulphuric acid. This should be thickened with wheat bran or flour, and should be al- lowed to dry on the skin, after which it should be scraped off with a spoon. Next, take the skin from the board, roll it with the fur inside, and draw it quickly backward and forward, over a smooth peg, or through an iron ring. The skin should then be unfolded and rolled ag^in the opposite way, and the opera- tion repeated until the pelt is quite soft and flexible. This is a good way of softening all kinds of skins, and the above prepara- tion will be found excellent for all ordinary purposes. The muskrat skin may be treated in the same manner as the above, if desired, and the process directed on the muskrat skin may also be applied to the pelts of the other animals. To remove the fur for a simple tanned skin, the hide should be immersed in a liquid composed of — soft water, five gallons ; slaked lime, four quarts ; and wood ashes, four quarts. Allow 19 278 OBSERVATIONS ON the skin to soak for a couple of days, after which the fur will readily slip off. Another method — Take equal parts wood ashes and slaked lime, and add water to the consistency of batter. Spread this over the inside of the skin, roll it up, and place it in a pail, covering it with water. Here let it remain from one to five days, or until the hair will shed easily, after which it should be finished with the fleshing knife and velveted with sand paper. OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE. In all cold climates, man has availed himself liberally of the warm covering with which nature has clothed the animals around him ; but the wealth of the most favored nations has drawn to them the most beautiful furs, in whatever part of the world they are procured. Skins of animals were among the first materials used for clothing. Before Adam and Eve were driven from the Garden of Eden, they were furnished with coats of skins. The ancient Assyrians used the soft skins of animals to cover the couches or the ground in their tents, and the Israelites em- ployed badger's skins and ram's skins, as ornamental hangings for the Tabernacle. The ancient heroes of the Greeks and Romans, are represented as being clothed in skins, ^neas, wearing for an outer garment, that of the lion, and Alcestes being formidably clad in that of the Libyan Bear. Herodotus speaks of those living near the Caspian Sea wearing seal skins, and Caesar mentions that the skin of the reindeer formed in part the clothing of the Germans. In the early period, furs appear to have constituted the entire riches of the Northern countries, and they were almost the only exports. Taxes were paid on them, and they were the medium of exchange. So it was also in our own Western territories in the latter part of the last century, and is to the present day, to a great extent, among the Indians. In the eleventh century, furs had become fashion- able throughout Europe, and the art of dyeing them, was prac- ticed in the twelfth. In the history of the Crusades, frequent mention is made of the magnificent displays by the European Princes, of their dresses of costly furs, before the Court at Constantinople. But Richard I. of England, and Philip II. of France, in order to check the growing extravagance in their use, resolved that the choicer furs, ermine and sable amongst the number, should be omitted from their kingly wardrobes. Louis. IX. followed their example in the next century, but not FURS AND THE FUR TRADE. 279 until his extravagance had grown to such a pitcli, that seven Jmndred and forty-six ermines were required for the lining of one of his snrcoats. In these times, the use of the choicer furs, as those of the sable, ermine, gris, and Hungarian squir- rel, was restricted to the royal families and the nobility, to whom they served as distinctive marks and badges of rank. These privileged persons applied them lavishly to their own use, and the "fashion extended to the princes of other less civilized nations. Their royal use soon extended to Tartary, and the tents of the Khan were bedecked with the most rich and costly furs. In the following century, furs were commonly worn in England until their use was prohibited^ by Edward 1 1 1., to all per- sons whose purse would not warrant a yearly expenditure of ^100. The early fur trade of Western Europe, was conducted through the merchants on the south coast of the Baltic, who received goods from the ports of Livonia. In the sixteenth century, a direct trade was opened between the English and Russians ; and a company of the former, protected by the Czar, established trading posts on the White Sea, and a warehouse at Moscow, whence they sent trading parties to Persia and the countries on the Caspian Sea. The Czar sent rich presents of beautiful furs, to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth ; but the latter prohibited the wearing of any but native furs, and the trade soon declined and was abandoned. In the 17th century, Siberia was conquered by the Russians, and its tribute was paid in furs. Large quantities were also furnished to China, but the choicest kinds — the precious ermine, the brilliant, fiery foxes, and the best sables, were taken to Moscow, for the use of the princes and nobles of Russia, Turkey, and Persia. In our own country, the early settlers of the Northern prov- inces, soon learned the value of the furs of the numerous ani- mals which peopled the extensive rivers, lakes, and forests of these vast territories. They collected the skins in abundance, and found an increasing demand for them, with every new arri- val of immigrants from the mother country. Trinkets, liquors, and other articles sought for by the native' tribes, were shipped to Quebec, and from thence up the St. Lawrence to Montreal, which soon became the great trading post of the country. The various tribes of Indians were stimulated by trifling compensa- tion, to pursue their only congenial and peaceful occupation ; and the French settlers, readily assimilating to the Indian habits, became themselves expert hunters, trappers, and explorers. The business prospered, and the English soon became in- terested and secured a share of the valuable trade. Many 28o OBSERVATIONS ON wealthy and influential parties, connected with the government of Great Britain, — Prince Rupert and Lord Ashley, among the number — became deeply interested in this source of revenue ; and after a successful enterprise, they obtained from Charles II., a charter of incorporation, giving to them full posses- sion of the territory within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, not already granted to other subjects, or possessed by those of any other Christian prince or State. In this charter was in- cluded the monopoly, of all trade in these regions, and thus we see the origin of the Great Hudson's Bay Company, which is to-day, one of the largest organizations of its kind on the globe. The territory they claimed, extended from Hudson's Bay, west to the Pacific, and north to the Arctic Ocean, except- ing that occupied by the French and Russians. They soon formed settlements upon the various rivers which empty into Hudson's Bay, and carried on their operations with immense vigor and success. They met with much opposition and open hostility from the French, and were subjected to vast expenses and losses, but in spite of all, they continued to prosper. Their forts or factories were extended further into the interior of British America, and their power was supreme throughout the country, and in a great measure over the Indians, whom they em- ployed to collect their skins. In the course of time, the French Canadians organized themselves into a united band, under the name of the North West Company, and established their head- quarters at Montreal. Their operations were carried on with great energy and profit, and many factories were built in the western portion of the Province. The company thus soon became a formidable competitor with the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, and for a period of two years, an actual state of war ex- isted between them. This condition of affairs finally termin- ated in a consolidation of the two organizations, under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company, the privileges of which extended over all the territory formerly occupied by both. Thus, we have the history of the famous Hudson's Bay Company, from its origin to its perfect organization. It is a most stupendous concern, and its annual shipment of furs, is something amazing. Their great sales take place in the month of March, in order to be completed before Easter ; and again in September, every year at London, and are at- tended by purchasers from nearly all parts of the world. Leipsic, the famous fur mart of Germany, is also the scene of a great annual fair, for the sale of skins.* The importance of the fur trade in this country, led to the FURS AND THE FUR TRADE. 28 1 early settlement of the Western territories of the United States ; and many a frontier city, like St. Paul, has been built up by the enterprise of the trapper. Mackinaw and Montreal owe much of their growth to the traffic of the fur trade ; and many a kingly fortune — John Jacob Astor's, for instance — has been founded on peltry. Besides the above fur sales in London a moderate portion of those annually collected in the United States are retained for use, amounting to about 150,000 mink and 750,000 muskrat skins, besides a number of other furs which are manufactured and worn. The annual yield of raw furs throughout the whole world is estimated at over twenty millions of dollars in value ; and when we include the manufactured articles therefrom, the amount will swell to a hundred milHons or over. This will serve to give some idea of the immensity and value of the business. American dealers divide our native furs into two classes, viz., home and shipping furs ; the former being chiefly utilized in our own country, while the latter are exported to all parts of the world. New York City is the great fur mart and depot for the shipping trade in this country, and the annual value of its exports, in this one branch of trade is enormous. The principal shipping furs are the silver, red and cross Fox, Wild Cat, Raccoon, Fisher, Muskrat and Skunk. Among the home furs are the Marten. Mink, Opossum, Wolf and Muskrat, the latter being extensively used both here and abroad. In the following chapter will be found more detailed notes on the leading American furs, including their various uses and the different countries for which they are the especial staples. In order to give the reader some idea of the variety and mag- nitude of the yield of furs from our own country, we annex a table (p. 282) showing the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company, at London, in the year 1873. MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS. Below will be found "an authentic table of the comparative values of the various American furs at the present date of pub- lication. Tiie quotations are those of one of our largest fur dealers, as published in *' The Hat, Cap and Fur Trade - Review,'' the leading journal of the trade in America. Of course these values^re constantly varying— keeping pace with the eccentricities of fashion and the demands of the fur trade ; but 282 OBSERVATIONS ON FURS AND THE FUR TRADE, Kinds. •1 -^ rt 12; § No. cf Sldns. Sept. Sale. 0' 12: H Price according to quality. Estimated average price per skin. Badger 2,700 5.217 111,993 2,843 90 1,818 6,930 6,914 540 7,312 2,468 47,878 31,802 651,498 8,571 2,794 37,052 779 471 ***i,*383 148 1,652 18,955 12,896 316,488 2,681 98 "*3,V82 "*"iS8 320 2,700 8,011 149,045 3,622 90 2,289 6,930 8,297 688 7,312 4,120 66,833 44,698 767,896 11,252 98 10,029 1^69 1 6,404 2,090 IS. to 7s. 5 s. to £8 I OS. 4s. 3d. to 38s. 6d. 8s. to £3 5s. iSs. to .£4. 5s. to £4. 2s. 8d. to 28s. lod. 4s. 6d. to 17s. £3 los. to £21. 2s. to 14s. 9d. 9s. 6d. to £1 14s. I OS. to £3 19s. 4s. to £1 8s. 6d. 3d. to i6d. 14s. to £3 i8s. £4 I OS. to £32. 3d. to 4d. IS. to 3s. 3d. 2s. to 7s. 6s. to £2 15s. Ss.toXi IS. £ s. d. I 06 Bear 5 00 I 00 00 Beaver Fisher 2 10 00 Fox, Blue. " Cross « Kitt *' Red " Silver " White Lynx 2 10 00 I 10 00 3 00 10 00 10 00 00 7 00 18 00 Marten I 10 00 Mink.. i^ 00 00 8 2 10 00 Muskrat Otter " Sea 15 00 00 00 3 2 6 Rabbit 10,029 Raccoon Skunk 1,691 6,216 1,77c 4 00 15 00 15 00 Wolf Wolverine the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values, as be- tween the two extremes of common and scarce furs. The fur market is a great deal like the stock market. It is constant- ly fluctuating, and a fur which is to-day among the novelties, may next year find itself on the low priced list. The demand for furs of any kind is nearly always governed by fashion, and of course the value is estimated on the demand. If the con- vention of fur dealers should decide to usher in Mtiskrat fur as the leading and most fashionable article in that line, the fashion would create the demand, the demand would be in turr supplied by the trappers throughout the country, and in pro- portion as the Muskrat skins became scarce, so their value would increase. In this way a skin which may be worth fifty cents at one time may soon acquire a value of twenty times that amount. The comparative value of skins is, therefore, constant- ly varying more or less ; but the annexed table (page 283) will be found useful for general reference, and for approximate AMERICAN FUR SKINS. 283 AMERICAN FUR SKINS — TABLE OP VALUES.* Badger Bear, Black " Cub " Brown Beaver, California per lb. *' Southern " Upper Missouri " Lake Supr. and Canada Cat, Wild " House Deer, Florida per lb " Missouri Elk and Moose per lb, j^isher, Southern " Eastern and Canada Fox, Silver " Cross " Blue " White " Red ♦' Gray " Kitt Lynx, Minnesota " Canada Marten, Dark " Small Pale Mink, Southern. •' Western " Middle States " Minnesota " New England " Quebec and Halifax Muskrat, Southern " Western " Northern *' Eastern Opossum, Ohio " Southern Otter, Southern " Northern Rabbit Raccoon, Southern " Western " Michigan Seal, Hair " Fur Skunk, Black Cased " Half Stripe " White Wolf, Timber " Prairie Wolverine Prime. 18.00 10 00 7.00 1.25 1. 00 1-75 2.50 40 15 20 20 35 7.00 10.00 ICO. 00 3.00 15.00 3.00 1-75 3-0O 50 2.50 4.00 10.00 2.00 1. 00 1.25 2.00 2.50 3-50 4.00 28 30 32 35 30 20 5.00 10.00 3 50 1.00 1-25 60 Seconds . $0.50 9.00 5.00 4.00 75 75 1.5c 1-75 25 5.00 8.00 25.00 1.50 5.00 1.50 1,00 1.50 25 1,00 2-00 6.00 1. 00 50 1. 00 1.25 1.50 1-75 2.00 25 28 30 30 3.00 6.00 60 50 10 I-50 75 2.00 Thirds. ;po.io 1. 00 1. 00 1.00 50 40 50 75 1. 00 2.00 I.OD 2.00 50 25 50 50 75 1. 00 1.00 15 18 20 2.00 2.00 Fourths. * From the " Hat, Cap and Fur Trade Review." 284 MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS. figures, will j^robably answer every jDurposc for some time to come. i Notwithstanding all these advertised prices, the young trap- per often experiences great difficulty in a profitable disposal of his furs. Like every other business, the fur trade runs in its regular grooves, and the average furrier will often pay an ex- perienced professional five dollars for a skin for which he would not offer a dollar to an amateur. This certainly seems discour- aging, but the knowledge of the fact is calculated to prevent greater discouragement. We often see fancy prices advertised by fur dealers for first- class skins ; but when the furs are sent, only a few are selected as "- prime ^^"^ the rest being rejected as worthless, or perhaps meeting with a meagre offer far below the regular rates. In this way the dealers have the opportunity of choice selection without incurring any risk. Many a young trapper has been thus disappointed, and has seen his small anticipated fortune dwindle down to very small proportions. The fur trade is suppHed through regular professional chan- nels ; and in giving our advice to the novice, we would recom- mend as the most satisfactory and profitable plan that he should make his sales to some local hunter or trapper, who has had ex- perience with the fur trade, and who is satisfied to pay a fair price for the various skins with the probability of selling at an advance, and thus realizing a profit. In nearly every trapping locality such men are to be found, and although the prices earned may be below the market rates, the amateur takes none of the speculative risks of the business, and should be willing to take lower prices on this account. AMERICAN FUR SKINS — THEIR USES AT HOME AND ABROAD. In the early history of fur apparel, its use was determined by clmiate; to-day, and especially in this country, it is regulated by the caprice of fashion. The mink for many years took the lead in the list of fashionable furs, but has of late been super- seded by the introduction of the fur seal. The most choice and costly of our American furs at the present day is the Silver Fox. When highly dressed they are worth from 10 to 50 guineas each in the European market. They are principally bought by the Russians and Chinese. The skins of the Red Fox are purchased by the Chinese, Greeks, Persians, and other Oriental nations. They are made into linings for robes, etc., and ornamented with the black fur of the paws which is set on in spots or waves. The fur of tbe AMERICAN FUR SKINS — ^THEIR USES, ETC. 285 Beaver was formerly highly prized in the manufacture of hats, and yielded a large portion of the profits of the Fur Companies, constituting the largest item in value among furs. Cheaper materials have since been substituted in making hats, and the demand for this purpose has been greatly reduced. By a new process the skin is now prepared as a handsome fur for col- lars and gauntlets, and its fine silky wool has been successfully woven. The Isoft, white fur from the belly of the animal, is largely used in France for bonnets. Raccoon skins are the great staple for Russia and Germany, where, on account of their durability and cheapness, they are in demand for linings for coats, etc. Among the Bearskins, those of the black and grizzly are extensively used for miUtary caps, housings, holsters, sleigh robes, etc. The fur of the Lynx is soft, warm and light, and is commonly dyed of a beautiful shining black. It is used for the facings and linings of cloaks, chiefly in America. The Fisher yields a dark and full fur which is largely used in fashionable winter apparel. The skin of the Marten, is richly dyed and utilized in choice furs and trimmings. The Mink, like the two foregoing, belongs to the same genus as the Russian Sable, and its fur so much resembles the latter as to be sometimes mistaken for it. It is one of fashion's furs, and the hair of the tail is sometimes used in the manu- facture of artist's pencils. The Muskrat produces the fur most worn by the masses, and is largely exported into Germany, France and England. It is estimated that over six millions of muskrat skins are annually taken in America, and of that number one-half are used in Ger- many alone. The skin of the Otter is at present classed among the lead- ing fashionable furs in this country. They are dyed of a deep purplish black color, and are made into sacques, muffs, etc. It is also used by the Russians, Greeks and Chinese. It is mostly an American product, but is also procured to some extent in the British Isles from a smaller variety of the species. The skins of the Wolf are chiefly used for sleigh robes and such purposes. The fur of the Rabbit is mainly employed in the manufacture of felt, and is also utilized for lining and trim- ming. The business of breeding rabbits for their fur has been introduced into the United States, and large numbers have been successfully raised in Danbury, Conn., for felting purposes con* nected with the manufacture of hats. 586 AMERICAN FUR SKINS THEIR USES, ETC. The fur of theWoIverinc or Glutton, finds a market for the most part in Germany, where it is used for trimmings and cloak linings. The Skunk furnishes the fur known as Alaska Sable, which forms one of our staple pelts, many thousands being annually exported to Poland and the adjacent provinces. The Badger yields a valuable and fashionable fur, which is also extensively used in the manufacture of artist's brushes ; a good " badger blender " forming a valuable 'accessory to a painter's outfit. Shaving brushes by the thousand are annually made from the variegated hair of the badger. The Opossum yields a fur in very common use among the masses, and the skins of the domestic Cat are utiHzed to a con- siderable extent in the manufacture of robes, mats, etc. The fur of the Puma and Wild Cat are also employed in this form, and may often be seen handsomely mounted and hanging on the backs of sleighs on our fashionable thoroughfares. Among the small game the skins of Squirrels are used for linings, and the soft, velvety fur of the Mole is manufactured into light robes, and very fine hats, and in theatrical paraphernalia is sometimes employed for artificial eyebrows. Fu-1 descriptions of the color of the various furs will be found ia our lengthy illustrated chapter on our American animals. Adirondack experiences with mosquitoes, 256. Advice to the Novice on the sale of Furs, 283. Air-tight Jar, for butter, &c., 236. Alaska Sable, 286. — See also Skunk. Alcohol, its use and abuse, 257. Alum— used in waterproofing, 249. "Amateur Trapping," 225. Amber, Oil of, used in the art of Trap- ping, J 52. American Fur Skins. — Table of values, 284. Their uses at Home and Abroad, 284. American Lion. — See Puma. Amputation, self inflicted, as a means of escape with captured animals, 144. To prevent, 144, 145. Ancient uses of Furs, 278. Anise, On. OF. — Its use in the art of trapping, 152. As bait for fish, 240. Annual yield of Furs throughout the world, 281. Apparatus for stretching skins, 273. Arrows, poisoned, 26. Arrow Traps, 23, 25. Artificial Eyebrows of Mole Fur, 286. Art of Trapping, 148. assafcetida. — Its use by the Trapper, 151. As scent bait for fish, 240. AsTOR, John Jacob, and the Fur Trade, 281. Astringent Preparations, use of, in drying Skins, 273, 276. B Badger, the. — Nature and habits of, 175. Skinning the, 177. Trapping the, 175. Uses of Fur, 286. Value of Fur, 284. Bags, Waterproof, for food, 236W Baiting the Steel Trap, 143. Baits for fishing, 240. Baits, scent, 149. Bait, Trapping without, 148. Bark Shanty. — Hints on, 266. Details of construction, 245. Bark-Stone. — See Castoreum. Bark-Stone composition.— See Castoreum, " Barque." — See Birch Bark Canoe. Barrel Hoops used in canoe building, 264. Barrel Traps, 125, 127, 133. Basket for the shoulders, 234, 236. Basswood-bark canoes, 264. Bateaux, 264. Bat Fowling Net, 70. Baking, recipe for, 253. Bay Lynx.— See Wild Cat. Beans as food, 235. Bear. — Nature and habits of, 168, 227. 'I'rapping the, 168. Traps for, 17, 29, 143. Various species of, 168. Directions for removing skin, 172. Use of skin, 285. Value of skin, 284. " Bear Tamer," 137, 142. " Bear Chasing," dangers of the sport, 170. 290 INDEX. Bear Grease, 171. Bear Meat, to roast, 233. *' " to dry, 237. Beaver.— Nature and habits of, 1 77, Trapping the, 177. Skinning the, 182. Skin, to tan, 277. Use of fur, 285. Vahie of skin, 284. Beds and Bedding, 248. Bed, spring, 248. " hammock, swinging, 249. Bed clothes, 249. Big Horn, the, 220. As food, 220, 238' Nature and habits of, 220. Trapping the, 220. Birch Bark Canoe, remarks on, 226. Directions for making, 261. Bird-Catching Net, 70. Bird Lime, 97. Masticated Wheat used as, 99. Recipe for making, 98. Used in capture cf Puma, 35. Used for capture cf Hummuig Bird, 99. Used in making Fly-paper, 136. Used with an Owl as decoy, 98. With paper cone, as a Crow trap, 96. Bird Traps, 65. " Box, 88, 90, gi. Bird Whistle, 72. Bison.— See Buffalo. Black Fly. — See " Punkey." Blanket, woollen, 250. Rubber, 236. Use of, 250. Block-tin, used for kettles, &c., 235. Blossom, utilized as a trap, 99. Blow-gun, used in the capture cf Ilum- ing Bird, 99. Board Flap, the, 130. Board Stretchers, 273. Boats, remarks on, 226. Manufacture of, 259. The dug-out, or log canoe, 259. The birch-bark canoe, 261. The bateau, 264. The scow, 267. The flat-bottomed boat, 267. Boiled Mush, 232. " to fry, 232. Boiling water used in bending wood, 268, 272. Book I. Traps for Large Game, 17. IL Snares or Noose Traps, 39. in. Traps for Feathered Game, 65. IV. Miscellaneous Traps, 103. V. Household Traps, 125. VI. Steel Traps and THE Art OF Trapping, 137. VII. The Campaign, 225, VIII. The Trapper's Miscellany, 255. Boots, hints on, 228. Grease for, 228* Bottle Lantern, 241. " Match Safe, 234. Bow Stretcher, for skins, 274. Bow Traps, 23, 25, 116. Bowl Traps, 135, 136. Box Bird Traps, 55, 88, 90, 91. Box Dead Fall, 128. Box Hut, used in Pickerel fishing, 241. Box Owl Trap, 88. Box Pit-fall, 131. Box Snares, 55, 56. Box Trap, the, 103 Two modes of setting, 105. Box Traps, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, no. Box Trap, pendent, 91. 15randy on a trapping campaign, 257 Brass wire nooses, 41. Brick Trap, 66. Broiling, recipes for, 233. Brook Trout, fishing through the ice, 240. " To cook deliciously, 232. Bruises, ointment for, 255. Buckskin gloves, in handling trails, 149. Building the camp fire, 233. Buffalo, the, 220. As food, 221, 238. How hunted and trapped, 221. Building boats, 259. Butternut log, for canoe, 239. Butter, to keep on a campaign,. 236. C Cage traps for birds, 76. " " mice, 134. Call Birds, how used, 72. Campaign Life in the Wilderness, 225. Campaign, Plan of, 225. Camp fire, 228. To build, 233. Camp Kettle, 235. " Knife, 235- " Stove, 228, 235. Canada Grouse, 238. " Lynx. — See Lynx. " Moose. — See Moose. Candles, in camp, 227. ** Novel way of using, 2 18. INDEX. 291 Canned vegetables, 236. Canoes, remarks on, 226. " Basswood-bark, 264. ** Birch-bark, directions for building, 261. " Hemlock bark, 264. " Log. — Sec Dug-out. " Spruce bark, 264. Canton flannel bags, for bed clothes, 249. Canvass-back Duck, as food, 239. Canvas bags, waterproof, 236. Caps, percussion, used in lighting fire, 234. Capture of Animals, 154- Carpeting Tents, 250. Castoreum, or Barkstone, 150. How obtained, 150. How used. — See Beaver. Castoreum composition, 150. Cat, domestic, use of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. Cat, wild.— See Wild Cat. Caulking boats, 261, 266. Caution in baiting steel traps, 143. Caution in handling steel traps, 149. Chill, remedy for, 257. Chimney-fire in log shanty, 245. Chip as a plate, 232. Chip, for a frying pan, 230, 232. Chloride of Lime, as an antidote, 152. Choosing a trapping ground, 225. Cicely, Sweet, as scent bait in fishing, 240- Cities built up by the fur trade, 281. Clap Net, 72. Clearing tents and shanties from insects, 230. Climate and fur apparel, 284. Clog, the, 146. Cloth for tent making, 247. " Wateri^roof preparation for, 247. Clothing, hints on, 228. Coasting on the Indian sled, 270. Cock of the plains, 238. Coffee, 236. Coffee-pot, 235. Cold, remedy for, 257. Combination camp-knif'^, 235. Common Box Trap, 103. Compass, pocket, 227. Compound scent-bait, 150, 153. Concealing steel traps, 229. Cone of paper as a trap, 96. Corrall, African trap, 34. Cooking Utensils for a Campaign, 230, 235- Coon. — See Raccoon. Coop Trap, 67. *' For large game, 33. Cotton drilling, used for making tents, 247. " Waterproof preparation for, 247. " Cotton Tail."— See Rabbit. Cougar. — See Puma. Cow's udder, as fish bait, 240. Crackers as food, 236. Crow trap, 96. Cummin, used in trapping, 152. Cup, portable, 231. Curing Skins, 272. Current price list of American furs, 284. D Dark lantem, used by bird catchers, 71. Deer hunters, 217. Dead-Falls, 17, 29, 107, iii, 113. " Box, 128. " For large game, 17. " How set for the fox, 113. " Stone, 29. ** Weighted haqooon, 26. " With figure four trap, 114. Dead fish, valuable in making trails, 153. Decoys, 72, 76, 94. Decov traps, 72, 76, 94. *' Whistle, 74. " Owl used as, 98, Deer, 214. As food, 233, 237, 23S. How to skin the, 219. Hunting at night, 217, 210. Luminosity of eyes at night, 217, 21 S. Natural characteristics of, 214. Salt as bait for, 218. Season for hunting, 218. Trapping the, 214, 215. Various modes of hunting, 217. Various species of, 215. Deer lick, the, 215. Deer meat, to dry, 237. Deer meat, to roast, 233. Delmonico outdone, 232. Detecting the direction of the wind by the finger, 217. Devices used in connection with the steel trap, 144, 147. Devils' Lantem, 241. Diet of the Trapper, 230. "Double Ender," the, 107. Double traps, 57, 109, 110, 129. Down Fall, the, 26. Dressing for fur skins, 273, 276. Dressing for leather, 228. Dressing skins for market, 272. " Home use, 276. Dried fish, 237. Dried venison, 237. Drilling, as tent material, 247. *' Waterproof preparation for, 247. 292 INDEX. Drinking cup, portable, 231. Drying skins, 272, 273, 276. Ducks, various species of, 239. As food, 239 To cook deliciously, 233. Duck Traps, 94, 95. " Dug-Out," the, hints on, 226. Detailed directions for making, 259. Eels, oil prepared from, 151. Elk. — See Moose. " Ephraim." — See Bear. Escaping from the mosquitoes, 255. Exports of furs, 281, 285. Extemporized frying pan, 232. "Toaster," 233. Extract of beef, Liebig's, 236. Extravagance in fur apparel, 279. False bottom traps, 127, 131, 133. Fashion and fur, 279, 283, 285. Feathered Game, Traps for, 65. Felt, use of rabbit-fur in making, 286. Fennel, Oil of, used in trapping, 152. Fenugreek, Oil of, used in trapping, 152. Figure Four Snare, 6r. Figure Four Trap, 107. " Used with Dead-Fall, 114. Finger, as a weather vane, 217. Fire, to build, 227. " To light without matches, 234. " With powder and cap, 234, " Without " anything," 235. Fire arms, 227. *' Oil for, 227. Fire bottle, 241. Fire Hat for night hunting, 218. Fire-proof preparations for tents, 247. Fish, to bake, 232. To dry, 237. To fry, 233. Fisher Marten. — How to trap the animal, 194. Its nature and habits, 194. Its common mode of release from cap- ture, 144. Method of skinning, 195. Use of skin, 285. Value of skin, 284. Fish-hook, trap for ducks, 95. Fishing, hints on, 239. At night, 239. Through the ice, 240. Various baits, 240. With tip-ups 240. For pickerel, 240. Fishing tackle, 227, 240, 241. Fish lantern, 241. Fish Oil, used in the art of trapping, 151. How obtained, 151. Fish, scent baits for, 240. Spearing, 239. Fish traps, 120, 241. Flat bottomed boats, 264, 267. Flat bottomed sled. — See Toboggan Flat stone, as a frying pan, 232. Flower, converted into a trap, 99. Fly, black. — See " Punkey." Fly-paper, to make, 136. Fly Tent, the, 246. Fly traps, 136. Food, portable, 230. Food and Cooking Utensils, 230. " Fools' Cap" Trap for Crows, 96. Forks, 235- Fortunes founded on peltrj-, 281. Fowling Net, the, 70. Fox.— Nature and habits of, 154. Trapping the, 154. Trapped by a dead-fall, iii, 113 Varieties of, 154. Directions for skinning, 158. — See also Red and Silver Fox. " Fox fire," used in capture of deer, 218. Fritters, pork, to cook, 231. Fi-yirgpan, 231, 235. " An extemporized, 232. Fur Market, eccentricities of, 283. Furs, ancient uses of, 278. Annual yield throughout the world, 281. Furs, best season for, 147. " Home," 281. Sale of, by Hudson's Bay Company 28r. " Shipping," 281. Table of market values, 282. Fur skins, to cure for market, 272. To tan, 276. Hints on selling for profit, 283. Various uses of, 285. Fur Trade, Observations on, 278. Immensity of, 281. Game, protected from wolves, 237. Garotte Trap, 114. Gloves to be used in trapping, 149. Glutton. — See Wolverine. INDEX. 293 Gnats, 230, 256. Painful effects of their bites, 256. Remedies for their bites, 255. Driven away by the " Smudge," 230. Gnat, black.-^See " Punkey." Goose trap, 75. Gopher. — Nature and habits of, 205. Trapping the, 205. Traps for, 119, 120, 140. Directions for skinning, 206. Grappling iron, the, 146. Grease for boots and shoes, 228. *' Great Bear Tamer," the, 142. Grizzly Bear. — Nature and habits of, 169. Trapping the, 169. Traps for, 17, 142. Use of fur, 285. Ground plan of trapping lines, 228. Ground, selection for trapping, 225. Ground Snares, 44. Grouse, as food, 233, 238. Bait for, 42. Oil of, for fire arms, 227. Peculiarities of, 42. Snares for, 39. To cook deliciously, 233. Various species of, 238. Gun Trap, 20. H Hair Nooses, 41. Half tent, 246. Hammocks, 250. Hammock bed, 249, Handling steel traps, caution in, 149. Hanging bed, 249, Hare.— See Rabbit. Harpoon Trap of Africa, 26. Hat Brim, portable, 258. Netting attachment for, 258. Hat lantern for night hunting, 2i8. Hawk snare, 43. Hawk Trap, 93. Head lantern used in deer hunting, 218. Head Net, 257. Hedge Nooses, 41. Hemlock bark canoes, 264. Hemlock boughs, as bedding, 250. Hemp, used in caulking boats, 261, 266. "Hiding" steel traps, 229. High top boots, 228. Hints on baiting the steel trap, 143. Hints on selection of trapping ground, 225. Hints on skinning animals, 272. Hints on trapping, 148. Hints on plans of trapping lines, 228. Hints on sale of furs, 283. Hippopotamus trap, 26. Historical items relating to furs and the fur trade, 278. Hoe cake, to cook, 232. Hogs carried off by bears, 170. Hog's liver used as fish bait, 240. " Home Furs," 281. Home-Made Boat, 264. Honey as bait„ 19, 31, 170. Hook trap for ducks, 95. Hopo, African trap, 34. Hoop nooses, 40. Hoop Stretcher for skins, 275. Horse hair nooses, to make, 41. Hot drink for chills, 257. Household Traps, 125. House Tent, 247, How to select a steel trap, 138. How to Trap, 153. Hudson Bay Company, origin of, 280. Sales of, 281, 282. Humming bird, killed by concussion, 99, " Snare, 99. " Trap, 99. " Various modes of capture, 99. Hunting the deer, 217. Hunting from trees, 218. Hut, Log.— See Log Shanty. Implements required on a trapping cam- paign, 227. Improved springle, 60. Indian CANOE.-See Birch bark canoe. Indian meal, as food, 231. Indian Sledge. — See Toboggan. Indian Snow Shoe, 268. India-rubber blanket, 236. How used, 250. Insect Ointments, 2(;5. Insect bites, remedies for, 255. " Sores resulting from, 257. Insects, to drive out from tent or shanty, 230, 256. Intemperance, 257. Jack knife, a valuable tool, 227. I Jar, as a trap, 135. 294 INDEX. Tar, air-tight, foi butter, 236. Jerked Venison," 237. John Jacob Astor, and the fur trade, 2S1. Johnny cake, to cook, 232. K Kettk, camp, 235. Knapsack, 234. Directions for making, 236. Knife, a necessary implement, 227. Knife, the combination camp, 235. Knives, table, 235. Lake trout, fishing for, 240. To cook deliciousJy, 232. Lantern for the head, used by deer hunt- ers, 218. Lantern used by bird catchers, 71 . Lantern trap for fish, 241. Large game, traps for, 17. Lavender, used in the art of trapping, 152. Leather preservative, 228. " Le Chat."— See Lynx. Lemonade, 236. Lens, to light fire with, 234. Lever for setting large steel traps, 142. Liebig's extract of beef, 236. Light, the trapper's, 227. Light for the head in night hunting, 2i8. Light home-made boat, 264. Lime, chloride of, as a disinfectant, 152. Liniment for wounds and bruises, 255. *' Insect bites, 255. Linseed oil, used as bird lime, 98. Lion, American. — See Puma. List of Prices of American Furs, 284. Liver, as fish bait, 240. Log Cabin.— See Log Shanty. Log Canoe. — See Dug-Out. Log Coop Trap, 33. Log Shanty, hints on, 226, 229. Detailed directions for building, 244. Site for building, 244, 287. To clear of gnats and mosquitoes, 230. Lucifer Matches. — See Matches. " Luxuries," 234. Lynx, the Canadian, 164. Natural characteristics of, 164. Trapping the, 164. Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 33, 35, 141. Lynx — Directions foi skinning, 166. Use of skin. 28s. Value of skin, 284. M Mackinaw and the Fur Trade, 281. Mallard Duck as food, 239. " to Cook.— See Duck. Market Value of Fur Skins, 281. Marmot. — See Woodchuck. Marten : — Nature and habits of, 192. Trapping the, 192. Its common mode of escape, 144. Directions for removing skin, 194. How to tan the Skin, 277. Value and use of skin, 284, 285. Mastic Varnish used in water-proofing, 234 Matches, 227. Bottle used for carrying, 234. To render water-proof, 234. Meal, Indian, as food, 231. Meat, to dry, 237. '• Medicines," or Scent Baits, 149. Menagerie Whistle, 74. Merganser, the, as food, 239. To cook. — See Duck. Midgets, 256. Painful effect of their bites, 256. Driven away by the " Smudge," 230^ Ointments for bites, 255. Serious effects of bites on the intem- perate, 257. Mink : — Nature and habits of, 189. Trapping the, 189. Traps for, 43, i4i' Its common mode of escape from the steel trap, 144-. Directions for skinning, 191. To tan skin of, 277. Extensive use of skins m America, 281. Uses of skin, 285. Value of skin, 284. Miscellaneous hints on trapping, 148. Miscellany, the Trapper's, 255. Miscellaneous Traps, 103. Mole, 207. Beauty of fur, 209, 211. Life and habits of, 207. Trapping the, 119. 210. Traps for, 119, 120, 140. Varieties of, 211. Directions for skinning.^See Gopher. Use of fur, 286. 295 Montreal and the Fur Trade, 281. Moose : — Nature and habits cf, 21c. Trapping the, 220. "Yards," 220. Flesh as food, 220, 223, 238. How to skin the animal, 220. Moose meat, to roast, 233. " Meat to dry, 237. Mosquitoes, 230. Painful effects of their bites, 257. Ointments for bites, 255. Driven away by the ** Smudge," 230. Adirondack experiences with, 255, 256. Head-net, 257. Serious effects of bites on the intem- perate, 257. Mouse Traps, 124, 130, 1311 i34« i35- Mud Stick or Pusher, 267. Mush, to boil, 232. to fry, 232. Musk: — Its use in the art of trapping, 151. How obtained, 151. Muskrat:— Nature and habits of, 182. Pit-fall Trap for, 133. Spearing the, 183. Trapping the, 182. Traps for, 43, 107, no, in, ii4» i33f 141. Its common mode of release, 144. Extensive use of skins in America, 281. Skin, to remove, 185. To tan. 277. Use of, 286. Value of, 284. Muscovy Duck as food, 239. To cook. — See Duck. Musquaw. — See Bear. N Natural Advantages utilized by the Trap- per, 149. Natural History. Necessity of its study in the art of Trappmp, 148. Neatsfoot Oil for Fire Arms, 227. Net: — " r>at fow'inGT, 70. " Bird catching, 70. '• Clap, 72. " Decoy, 72. " Fish, use of, 241. 20 Net for the head, 257. " Fowling, 70. Net traps, 70v73, 75i 80, 83, 85. For Tiger, Puma, or Wild Cat, 35- Spring, 80. The upright, 85. Wild Duck, 94. Wild Goose, 75. Netting attachment for Hat brim, 258. Newhouse Trap, the, 138. Night-hunting, 217, 218. Night-fishing, 239. Nooses : — Horse hair, 41, In hedge, 42. On hoops, 40. On string, 40. Noose Traps, 39. Nooses, wire, 41. Northwest Fur Company, 280. Nutting in Mid-winter, 212. O Oar-locks, simple, 266. Oat-meal as food, 236. Observations ON the History of Furs AND THE Fur Trade, 278. Oil, Fish.— Used in trapping, 151. How obtained, 151. Oil of Amber. — Used in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Ambergris. — Used in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Anise : — Its use in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Cinnamon : — Its use in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Fennel :— Its use in the art of trapping, 152. Oil cf Fenugreek : — Its use in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Lavender :— Its use in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Rhodium : — Its use by trappers, 151. Oil of Skunk :— Its use by trappers, 151, Oil :— For fire arms, 227. For light, 227. > Oil of Partridge : — Its use, 227. Oil of Pennyroyal : — For insect bites, 255. 296 INDEX. Ointment for Bruises and Wounds, 255. Ointment for Insect Bites, 255. Old-fashioned Springle, 58. Olive Oil in cooking, 236. Opossum, 201. Nature and habits of, 202 Trapping the, 201. Hunting the, 202. Directions for skinning, j Uses of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. Otter :— Nature and habits cf, Trapping the, 186. Directions for skinning, 189. How to tan the skin, 277. Use cf skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. Owl Trap, 88. Owl :— Used in connection with bird lime as decoy, 98. Paint as a water-proof covering, 236. Painter, the. — See Puma. Panther, the. — See Puma. I Paper Cone used as a trap, 96. Partridge, 42, 238. As food, 238. Fat for lire arms, 227. Snares, 30, etc. To cook deliciously, 233. Pekry :— Fortunes founded on, 281. Cities built un on, 281. Pendent Box, Bird Trap, 91. Pennyroval for insect bites, 255. Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257. Percussion Cap used in lighting fire, 234. Peshoo, the. — See Lynx. Phosphorescent wood used in night-hunt- ing, 218. Phosphorus lantern for catching fish, 241. Pickerel fishing, 240. " Soearing, 241. " Trap for, 121. " To cook, 233. Pigeon Net-tran, 72. Pigs carried off by Bears, 17:). Pine Log Canoe. — S*"e Dug-out. Pinnated Grouse, 238. Pitch for stopping leaks, 261, 264, 266. Pit-fall Traps. — For large game, 31. For small game, 125, 127, 131. Barrel, 127. Box, 131. For Muskrat, 133. Plan of Trapping Campaign, 225. Plates, substitutes f9r, 232, 235. Platform snare, 61. Poachers, or trap robbers, 229. Poacher's Snare, 48. Pocket compass, 227. Pocket Hat Brim, 258. " Sun-glass, 234. Poisoned arrows, 26. Poisoning, 222. Pop-corn as bait for Quail, 54. Portable boats, 259. Portable food & cooking utensils, 230, 235. Portable drinking cup, 231. Hat brim, 258. " With netting attached, 2 58. Snares, 50, 52. Stove, 228, 235. Pork as food, 231. " Fritters, 251. " " To make, 232. " Possum." — See Opossum. Potatoes as food, 235. Pouched Rat.— See Gopher. Powder used in lighting fire, 234. Prairie Hen, 238. Prairie Whistle, 74 Precautions in handling steel traps, 156. Preface, 3. Preparation of skins for market, 272. Preserve jar used as trap, 135. Price Current of American Furs, 284. Prime fur, best season for, 147. Prof. Blot outdone in cooking, 232. Profit in selling furs, 233. Pronghorn Antelope, 221. Nature and habits of, 221. How hunted and trapperl, 221, 238- Provisions, to protect from Wolves, 237. Ptarmigan, to cook, 233. Trap for, 75, How hunted and trapi>ed, 239. Various species of, 230. Puma : — Bait for, 20, 3i».32, 163. Nature and habits of, 161. Peculiarities of, 20. Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 3'> 33) M^* Trapping the, 16 r. Directions for skinning, 164- Use of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. Pumice Stone, used in finishing skins, 276- " PUNKEV." — Description of the Insect, 256. Severity of bites, 256. Ointment for bites, 255. Serious effects of bites on the intem- perate, 257. INDEX. 297 Punk Tinder, used in lighting fire, 234. " Pusher." — See Mud stick. Putty, for stopping leaks, 261. Q Quail, bait for, 40, 54. " Snares, 39, 40, 41, etc. To cook deliciously, 233. Quotations of the Fur Market, 284. R Rabbit: — As food, 238. Bait for, 203. How to skin, 204. Nature and habits of, 203. Salt as bait for, 109. Traps for, 43, 64, 103. Use of fur, 286. Value of fur, 284. Varieties cf, 203. Raccoon :— As a pet, 173. Nature and habits cf, 172. Trapping the, 172. Traps for, no, 116, 141. Hunting the, 172. Directions for skinning^, 175. How to tan the skin, 277. Use of the fur, 285. Value of the fur, 284. Rat :— Snares for, 43. Trapping the, 125. Traps for, 43, lis? 127, 128, 131, 13 Ritions for a Campaign, 230. Raw Furs. — See Furs. Recipe for insect ointments, 255. Boot grease, 228. For cookin.g, 230. For curing skins, 272. For tanning skins, 276. Red Fox.— See Fox. Red Fox.— Value of skin, 284. Use of skin, 285. Red Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257. Red Squirrel. — See Squirrel. Remedies for insect bites, 255. For chills, 257. Rec^uisites of a good steel trap, 138. ''' For snaring, 39. " For a good trapping ground, 225. " For a trapping campaign, 227. Revolver, 227. Reynard outwitted by a dead-fall, in, 113- Rhodium, Oil of: — Its use by the trapper, 151. Rice as food, 236. Rifle and Shot Gun combined, 227. Oil for, 227. Rifle Trap, 20. Roasting, recipes for, 233. Rocky Mountain Sheep. — See Big Horn. " Roughing it," 230. Rubber blanket, 236. How used, 250. Ruffed Grouse.— See Partridge. Rum on a trapping campaign, 257. Sage Cock, the, 238. Sale cf furs by the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, 282. Salmon, spearinj', 239. " Spear, 239. Salmon Trout, spearing, 239. Salmon, to cook deliciously, 232. Salt as bait for Deer, 218. As bait for Rabbit, 109. Salt Lick, the, 218. Sandpaper used in softening sHns, 276. Salt Pork as feed.. 231. Scent Baitf, 149. " Compound, 150, 153. Scented baits for birds, 240. Scented baits for fish, 240. Season for Deer huntir.g, 218. Scow, 267. Season for trapping, 147. Selection cf trapping ground, 225. Self-amputation as a means of escape with captured animals, 144. Se;f-amputation, to prevent, 144, 145. Self-raising flour, 235. Self-setting Traps, no, 125, 127, 131. Shanty: — Bark.— S«e Bark Shanty. "Home."— See Log Shanty. Log.— See Log Shanty- Sheeting as tent material, 247. Watar-prorf, preparation for, 247. Shellac Varnish used in water-proofing, 234. Shelter : — The trapper's remarks on, 226. Shelter tent, 247. Detailsof construction, 242. . Shingle stretchers for skin?, 274. 298 INDEX. *' Shipping furs," 281. Shooting and Poisoning, 222. Shot-gan Trap, 20. Shot-gun combined with rifle, 267. Shoulder basket, 234, 226. Sieve Trap, 65. Silver Fox, 154. Value of skin, 284, 285. Skinning animals, hints on, 272. Skins : — Stretchers for, 273. To drj--, 272, 376. To soften, 276, 277. To tan, 276. Value of, 2S4. Use of, 285. Skunk, 195. Adventure with, 196, As food, 238- Nature and habits of, 195. Trapping the, 195. Traps for, 43, in, 114, 141. To eradicate odor of, 152, 19S. Oil of, used in trapping, 151. Directions for skinning, 198. Use of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. Sled, Indian.— See Toboggan. Sliding Pole, 145. Slippery Elm used for bird-lime, 9S. *' Small Game '^ as food, 237. Smell, acute sense of, in animals, 14S. Smoking the steel trap, 128. Smouldering birch bark to drive away in- sects, 230. Smudge, the, 230, 256. Snare. — Box, 55. Double box, 56. Fig. Four, 62. Hawk, 43. Hedge, 42. Hoop, 40. Humming-bird, 99. Knotted string, 52, 53, 54. Pasteboard box, 56. Platform, 61. Poacher's, 48. Portable, 48, 50, 52. Quail, 53. Rat, 43. " Simplest," 52. Springle, 58, 60. Stovepipe, 120. Tree, 42. Triangle, 42. Twitchun, 43. Wood Chucic, 43, Snares, or Noose Traps, 39. Snaring, requisites for, 39. Snow Grouse, the, 238. Snow-Shoes, 267. Snow-shoe race, 267. Softening skins, 276, 277. Sores resulting from insect bites, 257. Soups, recipes for, 236. Spearing fish, 239, 241. Spearing Muskrats, 183. Spider for cooking, 233. Spoons, 235. Spring-bed, 249. Springle, 58, 60. Spring-net Traps, 80. Spring-pole, the, 144. Spring, to temper, 84. Spruce Bark Canoes, 264. Spruce boughs as bedding, 250. Spruce Grouse, 23S. Squirrels, 211. As food, 238. Nature and habits ot, 211. Traps for, 43, 103, 106, 107, no, 116^ 128, 140. Various species of, 213. To cook, 233. Use of skins, 286. Steel Traps, 137. Caution in handling, 149. Concealing in the woods, 229. Various modes of setting, 144. Requisite number for a campaign, 227. To set for rats, 128. To select judiciously, 138. Requisites of, 138. Hints on baiting, 143. Steel Tran sprinr, to set with lever, 142. Steel Traps and the Art of Trap- ping, 137. Still hunting, 217. Stimulants, 257. Stone Dead-fall, 29. Storing traps in the woods, 229, Stove, portable, 228, 235. Stovepipe fish-trap, 120. St. Paul, Minn., and the Fur Trade, 2S1. Stretchers for Skins, 273- Strychnine poisoning, 222. Sucker wire nooses, 41. Sugar of lead used in water-proofing, 247. Sun-glas'?, 234, 235. Sweet Cicely as bait for fish, 240. Sweet Fennel. — Oil used in trappint^, 152. Sweet Oil and Tar Ointment for insc:.! bites, 255. Swinging bed, 249. INDEX. 299 Table knifa and bowl trap, 135. Table showing sale of turs by Hudson Bay Company, 282. Tallow, mutton, as ointment, 255. Tame Geese as decoys, 75. Tanning skins, 276. Mixtures, 276, 277, 278. With the hair on, 27b. Simple, 278. Tar and Sweet Oil ointment for insect bites, 255. Tar for water-proofing, 264. Tea, 236. Red pepper, as a remedy, 257. Teai Ducks as food, 239. To cook. — See Duck. "Telescope" Drinking Cup, 231. Temperiv;S iron spring, 84. Tents, 246. House-tent, 246. Fly-tent, 247. Half-tent, 247. Shelter-tent, 247. Material?, 247. Water-procf preparation for, 247. Fire-prccf preparation for, 247. To carpet with spruce, 250. To clear of grats and musquito^s, Tent CARP'tT'^NT, 2t;o. Thimble used with bowl as Mouse trap, 136. T^eer captured with bird lime, 35. '^'-'prtrar, 31- T'nder, 234- Tip-uns, 240. Toaster, an extP^rorizec'. 2'^t' ToROGGAN. OR Indtan Si.edge, 26n. Tools required on a trapping campaign, Too^«; reou're.-l 10^ cnnof* buiM'P"', 2?n. Torch for the head, used in night himting, " Tonr^-wood " used in lighting fire, 234. Trai'. The.— Tfs vriltie in t^« tr^pr'''-, 15"?. Various modes ci making', 153. Trap.— Arrow, 2-», 21;. ■R^rreU 12c, i?j. F?ird, 6?, 70, jf. 75, 88, go, gr, g'l. T?ow. 27, 25, 116. T?ow!, 135. ^^^1 55» S^> 88, go, gr, 103, 10^, icK'f 110. Brick, 66. Cage, 76, 134. Cob house, 67. Coon, no, 116, 141. Coop, 33, 67, 70. Crow, gb. Deaa-fall, 17, 107, iiie Decoy, 72, 7b, 94. Double erder, icg. Down-fall, 26. Duck, g4, gs- Fish, 120. Fish hook, gs. Fly, 136. Fool's-cap, g6* Garotte, 114. Gun, 20. Harpoon, 26. Hawk, 42, g3. Hook, gs- Jar, 135- Mole, iig, 120. Mouse, 130, 13 !» »34> '35' Net, 70, 73» 75> 80, 83, 85. Owl, 88. Partridge, 43, etc. Pendent Box, gi. PltfalU It, 125, 127, 131. Ptarmigan, 75. Quail, 3g, 40, 41, 53* Rabbit, 43> 64, 103. R-'^ 43, 125, 127, 128, 13 r, 138. Rlflf', 20. S^if-settinj]', no, 125, 127, 131. Siev-^, 65. Snring net, So, Si, 85. Steel, f.o. The "■ Newhrusc," 140. Treo, 42, OT. U'-'nVht ret, Fs* Wild Duck, g4, 95. Wild Grose. 75. Woodchuck, 4'. Trapper's beds ard heddirr, 248. " Cooking utensils, 230. " Diet, 270. TRAppER^s Miscellany, 255, *' Shelter, 226. 742. ** Sled.— See Toboggan. Trapping, art of, 148. Season for, 147. Miscellaneous hints on, 148. CamnaiqTj, plan of. 22«;. Too^s and other reruisiles, 227. O'-ound, selection of, 22 ^. V^^nh'e sucjp'estions (»n, c:8. Trnnpinor Tiinc:-, 226 Trap robber?, 220. Traps for large game, 17. 300 INDEX. For Feathered Game, 65. Household, 125. Tree hunting, 218. Tree snare, 42. " Traps, 42, 91- Triangle Snake, 42. Trout, to cook dehciously, 232. Trumpet Creeper flower used as a trap, 99. Tumbler fly-trap. 136. Twitch-up, 43, 62. Poacher's, 48. Portable, 50. " Simplest," 520 U Upright Net Trap, 85. " Saares 44, 58. Use and abuse of Alcohol, 257. Uses of fur skins, 285. Utensils for cooking, 230, 235. V Value of fur sVin-., table of, 262. Various uses cf fur skins, 285. Varnish water-procf preparation for pre- serving matches, 234. Vegetables for i^od on a campaign, 23 5. " Canned, 236. Venison as food, 233, 237. To roast, 233, To preserve, 237, "Jerked," 237. Dried, 237. W Walking on the snow, 267. War in the fur trade, 281. Watch crystal as sun glass, 287 Water fowl as food, 239. Water-proof application for boats, 261, 264, 266. " Canvas bags, for food, 236. Match safe, 234. " Preparation, 236, 247, 266. " Varnish for matches, 234. Water traps, no, 120. Wedge stretcher for skins, 274. Weighted harpoon trap, 26. Wheaten grits as trappers' food, 236. Wheat flour as food, 235. " Seli-raising, 235- Wheel form of trapping lines, 229. Whiskey on a trappmg campaign, 257. Whip lashes from vVoodchuck hide, 204. Whistlebird, 74. White Birch Canoe, 261. White-wood log for Dug-out, 259. Widgeon, the, as food, 239. To cook. —See Duck. Wild Cat : — Nature and habits cf, 167. Snares for, 43. Trapping the, 166. Skinning the, 168. Uses of skin, 286. Value cf skin, 284. Wild Duck, to cook. 233. Wild Duck, traps, 94, 95. Wild Goose as food, 239. Wild Goose to cook, 233. Wild Goose trap, 75. Wind, direction cf, to detect by the finger 217. Winged verrr.u"', 255. Winter fishing, 240. Wire cage trap for birds, 76. " " For mice, 134' Wire nooses, 41. Wolf.— Nature and habits of, 158. Trapping the, 158. Poisoning the, 222. Traps for, 20, 141. To protect provisions frcm, 237. Varieties cf, 158.^ Directions for skinning, 161. Use of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. Wolverine : — Nature and habits of, 199, 238. Trapping the, 199. Natural enemy to the Beaver, 200. Directions for skinning, 201. Use of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. WooDCHUCK, 204. As food, 238. Nature and habits cf, 204. Snare, 205. Trapping the, 204. Use of skin, 204. Smoked from its burrow, 205. Removing skin of, 205. Woodcock, to cook, 233. Wood Duck as food, 230. To cook.— See Duck. Woodland beds and bedding, 249* Wounds, ointment for, 255. HOME USE CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT MAIN LIBRARY This book is due on tlie last date stamped below. 1-month loans may be renewed by calling 642-3405. 6-month loans may be recharged by bringing books to Circulation Desk. Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days prior to due date. ALL BOOKS ARE SUBJECT TO RECALL 7 DAYS AFTER DATE CHECKED OUT. -^r fctttt*l <3Pn m. fMR 2 5 '^5 jUN«F^lift4 Bii^ua. mk> '^ NOV 31 y^^ "yy nm m -:r^«^ 'M\ Ivl3i:^568 YE i U /Q 7