THE FLOWING BOWL w COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE DAVIS, CALIFORNIA THE FLOWING BOWL THE FLOWING BOWL WHEN AND WHAT TO DRINK BY THE ONLY WILLIAM (tmiliam 8d)mHrt) FULL INSTRUCTIONS HOW TO PREPARE, MIX, AND SERVE BEVERAGES CHARLES L. WEBSTER & CO. 1892 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 1ARY COPYRIGHT, 1891, BY WILLIAM SCHMIDT. (All rights reserved.) OF JENKINS & McCowAN, NEW YORK. Contents. PAGE HISTORY 17-38 WINE 19 BEER 23 ALCOHOL 28 COFFEE 31 TEA 33 WATER 35 MINERAL WATER 38 PHYSIOLOGY AND DIET 39-47 COMPOSITION OF DRINKS AND THEIR ADULTERA- TIONS , 49-64 WATER. 52 MILK 55 WINE 57 BEER 61 SPIRITS 63 ETHNOGRAPHY .. 65 OUR ANCESTORS 73 DESCRIPTION OF A GREEK BANQUET 75 DESCRIPTION OF A ROMAN BANQUET (Prose} 77 DESCRIPTION OF A ROMAN BANQUET (Poetry) 82 A ROYAL FEAST AMONG THE HUNS 86 A MENU OF EMPEROR CHARLES V 88 WHAT KINDS OF WINES AND IN WHICH ORDER SHOULD THEY BE SERVED AT A REPAST?... 91 SAMPLE MENUS 95 74847 xif CONTENTS. PAGE INTRODUCTION TO MIXED DRINKS 105 CONTAINING HINTS TO THE PROFESSIONAL BARKEEPER AND GENERAL REMARKS TO THE PUBLIC. MIXED DRINKS 121 SOURS 123 COCKTAILS 125 PUNCHES (FOR THE BAR USE) 131 LEMONADES 135 TEMPERANCE DRINKS 137 COBBLERS 144 FIZZES 145 DIVERSE 147 LIQUORS AND RATAFIAS 179 PUNCHES 209 BOWLS 237 KALTSCHALEN (BISHOPS) , 249 EXTRA DRINKS.. 255 FRUIT WINES 261 POETRY 273 preface. WHILE having been active for a period of more than thirty years in the line of hotel and bar business, and having given my greatest care to mixed drinks partic- ularly, I have found them to be great favorites among connoisseurs. Repeatedly the desire has been expressed to me as to where to obtain satisfactory and reliable information how to prepare such delicious mixtures. A great num- ber of men received such information from me, as far as a few minutes' conversation could teach anybody. The oftener, however, such questions were repeated, the more established became within me the conviction that there was among the public a general desire for a book containing all advices of such a kind. The result of this conviction is this book, that hereby is handed over to the public. Feeling that I had to place on the market only a first- class manual, in all its details and instructions, I have given it the most particular care and study. Utmost diligence and attention have assisted me to express my thoughts in clear and exact terms, so as to enable any one, even private persons, to understand and compre- hend how to obtain the most satisfactory results. I might compare mixing drinks with the working in XIV PREFACE. fractions, especially in circulating decimals; if we are not very careful in the order in which we do certain operations, we most certainly will never arrive at a correct result; neglecting following decimal places will largely affect the correctness of our final answer. So, too, in mixing drinks: The fractional parts of liquors that are to be mixed, and their order, have to be care- fully considered, and without such consideration no palatable drink may be expectecl. I do not deny that a book on drinks will mainly have to cover the demands of public resorts, but I hope, and I am sure many join me in this feeling, that there will be a time when reasonable drinking is not looked upon as a crime; and the time will come when around the table the whole family sits chatting and whiling idle hours away, while the sparkling bowl sharpens their wit and loosens their tongues; when father and grown-up sons will not leave their homes to seek recreation, but when they will spend their leisure time in the family circle. By careful investigation every impartial reader will find that nearly all recipes concerning bowls, punches, etc., are made not so much for the bar-use as for the family. It may sound strange from the lips of a mixer of drinks, and still it is the truth / believe in temperance. Surely this my belief has no reference to temperance that identifies itself with prohibition, but it has refer- ence to temperance in the word's true meaning: tem- pering or moderating the enjoyment of liquors. PREFACE. XV A habitual drinker will never indulge in beverages artistically mixed; he lacks the taste of them, as they do not bring him rapidly enough to his desired nirvana. In drinking, our aim must be enjoyment, not inebria- tion. Thus the culture of mixed drinks will lead us with greater sureness to true temperance than all blue laws ever will be able to do. Another reason for setting my foot upon the slippery road of a public writer was the general approval my new concoctions met with. For years I have been urged to publish the recipes of the same; some of them have been communicated to the public by the medium of our leading newspapers, when occasion and demand seemed to render it desirable. Never, however, I felt inclined to giving the reader only a series of recipes. My ambition took a higher flight. If ever I was to place anything upon the market, it should be a book containing not only recipes valuable to professional men mostly, but one, the reading matter of which should be of a kind that every intelligent man might find at least something to arouse his interest. Should this my sincere wish find fulfillment, even in a limited degree, my labor bestowed on this volume I should not think wasted. The reading matter does not claim to replace an en- cyclopaedia; I restrained myself to select only such subjects as might be of some value to the majority of my readers. In the Physiology of Drinking I preferred to give general hints than an entire treatise on this sub- XVI PREFACE. ject, which, treated upon extensively, would by itself fill a volume similar to this in size. The pages about poetry, likewise, give only a selection of the best poets: should I have omitted one of the favorites of my es- teemed readers, I beg their kind forgiveness. The drinks themselves are divided into two great groups, such as served and serviceable at the bar only, which are enumerated under the heading " Mixed Drinks," and such as might be desirable for societies and larger companies, as punches, bowls, etc. While thanking my co-workers for their kind and indefatigable assistance, and expressing my heartfelt gratitude to my many patrons for the interest they took in the book while it still was unwritten, as well as to Messrs. Chas. L. Webster & Co. for the care which they bestowed upon the outfit of same, I deliver these pages to the public. May it be accompanied by kindness, and may it, in return, be a guide to the reader that will show him the path to many a happy hour. Very respectfully yours, A. WILLIAM SCHMIDT. tiJtnc. ASIA is undoubtedly the country where the vine has grown without the helping hand of man, and very prob- ably the slopes south of the Caucasus, where still now- adays, as in the Kolchian forest, the vine grows in abundance and richness. Elphinstone born 1778, died 1859 on his journey to Cabul, saw in the Caucasian forests the vine growing wild, and describes how fascinating to the eye the en- tanglement and coverings of whole forests by the vine appeared. Modern travelers report of bunches of grapes of seventeen pounds in Palestine, and of a vine- tree on the southern slope of the Lebanon Mountains, the diameter of which was one foot and a half; it was thirty feet high, and formed, by its twigs and boughs, a canopy of two hundred feet in circumference. In the vicinity of Naples you may see vines, the stems of which are only a little thinner than the trees to which they cling. As to the size of grapes, they are naturally larger under the glowing sun of the south. Already in Italy we see exceedingly large bunches; still larger they are found in Greece and Asia Minor. Near Shi- raz, in Persia, their length amounts to a yard. Baron De Huegel found them of colossal size in Cashmere. 20 HISTORY Lady Sale, in her memoirs from Afghanistan, speaks of grapes of which a single berry weighed one hundred and twenty-nine grains. The mythology of the Greeks mentions the birth of Dionysos, or Bacchus or what is identical to both, the home of the vine as taking place upon the mountain Nysa, a peak of the Hindoo Koosh, an Indian chain of the gigantic Himalaya system. This god was brought up by mountain-nymphs, and educated by the muses, fauns, the old Silen, and the satyrs; in harmony with this education his worshipers represented him as a bewitching youth, with forms re- sembling woman, and with gladness on his brow, or as adorned with vine-wreaths, resting among beautiful women, who, singing and dancing, give us the prettiest and oldest allegory of "Wine, Wife, and Song." He is also represented as rambling over wide fields, drawn by panthers. In a different light appears the vine in the history of the Jews, but also here, in closest connection with their elder father; Noah's wine soon became a favorite bev- erage among the Hebrews, who were anything but teetotalers. When the Israelites left Egypt to return to their old country, Canaan, explorers, sent out, brought back a huge bunch of grapes, the best proof for the wine-cul- ture in Palestine at this early time, 1250 B. C. The travels of Bacchus allegorically allude to the spreading of the wine-culture from east to west. WINE. 21 According to the myth, it took its way over Arabia, Egypt, and Libya to Hellas; later on to Italy, and finally to Spain and Gaul. The worship of Bacchus was corresponding to the importance of the wine-culture, and found its acme in the Dionysians of the Greeks, and the Bacchanals of the Romans. Historical traditions call the Phoenicians the first wine-growers; they brought the vine to the islands of Chios, Mitylene, and Tenedos. Already, in the year 550 B. C., the process of blend- ing selected wines was known to the Carthaginians. Herodotus and Theophrastus give accounts of the Egyptian wine-culture, which has long since died out. The ancient Persia produced the precious royal wine of Chalybon, and the valuable brands of Bactriana, Ariana, Hyrkania, and Margiana. In India the priests, and in Egypt the priests and kings, were forbidden to drink, while the Jewish priests were only prohibited on days of religious services. Homerus many times mentions the wine as sorrow- breaking and heart-refreshing, and as a beverage for the gods. In Italy wine was first cultivated in Campania. The most celebrated wines of ancient Italy were: Falernian, Faustinian, Caecubian, Massician, Setinian, and those of Formia, Calene, etc. The old custom of adding turpentine to the wine, for the purpose of preserving, was followed also in Italy; 22 HISTORY. hence the resemblance of the tip of a Thyrsus-staff to the cone of a pine. The wine-production of the old Romans was enor- mous; Caesar presented to the city of Rome at one single time 44,000 barrels; Hortensius had not less than 10,000 barrels of extra Chios wine in his cellars. Gaul (France) was a wine-growing country long be- fore Germany, as already, 600 B. C., the Phocians in Massilia, the modern Marseilles, introduced the wine here. Caesar already found in Gaul extensive vineyards; Ausonius praises the wines of Medoc; Plinius those of the Auvergne. Emperor Domitian ordered half of the Gallic vine- yards to be destroyed, and in their stead that grain should be raised; this would have the double effect of reducing the price of the grain, and of securing better prices to the wine-growers in Italy. Emperor Probus revoked this edict. Aurelian and the Antonines planted vines in the Cote d'Or, the best product of which is still nowadays called " Romance." Charlemagne owned vineyards in Burgundy, and brought the vine from there to the Rhine. In exchange for thirty barrels of Chambertin the ab- bot of Citeaux received from Pope Gregory IX. the dignity of cardinal. During the crusades French pilgrims brought eastern vines to France. The sparkling champagne was not known yet at the BEER. 23 close of the seventeenth century, as its invention was made by Dom Perignon, of Hautvillers, during the time from 1670-1715. In the sixteenth century the German wine-grower, Peter Simon, took the vine from the Rhine to Malaga, which now supplies us with the most delicious wine. But it would take us too long, and it would very likely become annoying to our kind readers, to go fur- ther into details; only this must not be suppressed, that America's first discoverers, the Northmen, found ripe grapes in looo A. D., and named the unknown shore Vinland, a place supposed to be on the coast of Massa- chusetts. But the proper cultivation of wine in the United States reaches back not farther than to the be- ginning of this century. Seer. " BEER is a light, narcotic, alcoholic beverage, which charms us into a state of gladness and soft hilarity; it protects our hearts against stings of all kinds, awaiting us in this valley of misery; it diminishes the sensitive- ness of our skin to the nettles and to all the bites of the numberless, detestable human insects that hum, hiss, and hop about us. " The happy mortal who has selected beer as his pre- ferred stimulant imbeds greater griefs and joys in soft pillows; surely thus being wrapped up he will be able to travel through this stormy life with less danger. 24 HISTORY. " Yes, I find such a perfection of forms, such a softness and ductility of the tissue in the pale juice of barley, that I, to express its physiology with a few words, might say: ' It is to us in our lifetime like a wrapper which enables our fragile nature unendangered to reach the safe port.' " This quotation is a verbatim translation from a book, The Hygiena of Taste, by the world-famous Italian physician and physiologist, Paolo Montegazza. Nobody will to-day declare that Lager, as we usually call it, has not had the greatest influence upon the devel- opment of nations, especially those of German descent. We do not mean Germans proper of the present time, but all those nations that trace their origin back to the German tribes that wandered, during the fourth and fifth centuries, over the entire part of Europe, and even crossed the Strait of Gibraltar into Africa. Yet we would be mistaken to believe that beer was unknown to the ancients. Sophocles and ^Eschylos, those famous Greek tra- gedians, Diodorus of Sicily, Pliny, the greatest repre- sentative of natural philosophy of Roman times, and others, already mention the beer (in Greek, zythos). Famous breweries were at Pelusium in lower Egypt, the Beeropolis of the ancients, as nowadays are Munich in the Old, and New York, St. Louis, and Milwaukee in the New World. The Egyptians made their beer from barley. The secrets of brewing after Egyptian prescriptions were BEER. 25 imported into the south and north of Europe by the Phenicians. Greeks, Romans, and Gauls enjoyed their lager: the Romans called it, uniformly with the Gauls, Cerevisia, from Ceres, the goddess of field fruits. The old Saxons and Danes were extremely fond of it, and counted drunkenness from it as one of the highest re- wards awaiting them in Walhalla, their Paradise, where reside Odin's heroes. An old German story has it that Gambrinus, king of Brabant, was the inventor of beer, and it is in conse- quence of this that the brewers revere this mythical king as their patron. In Germany, beer was introduced at large during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, although already six centuries ago we find the beer in Germany mentioned; we dare not omit the phrase of Tacitus in his Germanis that the Suevians enjoyed a beverage made by fermen- tation of grain. For instance, we find in a law collection of the "Ale- mannians, a German tribe residing on both sides of the Rhine, from Basel to Mayence, the remark that every one belonging to any parish was obliged to give fifteen gallons of beer to the parson. Charlemagne also here did not underestimate the value of it; for he called the best brewers to his court and also gave orders how to brew. Since 1482, a heavy beer has been made in the mon- asteries of Germany; it was of two kinds, a better qual- ity for the Fathers and a cheaper one for the convent. 26 HISTORY. In the sixteenth century, the brewing business of Germany ranked very high and beer was one of the chief exports of this country. The Thirty Years' War destroyed this industry. The public prosperity faded and the quality, the reputation of the beer and the demand for it were likewise dimin- ished. Up to that time beer was made in smaller villages in every household; after it, especially in lower Germany and the Netherlands, a specific brewery business was created, which flourished mainly in Ghent, Brugge, and Brussels; Ratisbon and Ulm were the brewing centres of South Germany. In cities where, on account of the lack of good cellars, etc., it was difficult to make good and palatable beer, the city authorities ordered beer in casks from abroad, and these were put on draught in public places, built expressly for this purpose. All persons having visited the old country are aware of the existence of so-called " Rathskellers," as for in- stance in Bremen, Lubeck, Salzburg, etc. These cel- lars owe their origin to this arrangement of the city government; yet these public places changed afterward from beer into wine depositories. Some beers of that time acquired a very great repu- tation, as those of Brunswick, Eimbeck, Merseburg, Bamberg, etc. In England were the better beers, as ale and porter, not manufactured before the end of the last century; up BEER. 27 to that time the English drank beer resembling the so- called " Convent Beer " of Germany. In the second half of our century the breweries changed into beer factories. The increasing prosperity after the close of the Napoleonic wars and the founda- tion of duty-treaties between the different states in- creased the riches of the nations and were of enormous influence upon the quality and demand of beer. At present the Bavarian beer is thought to be the best, and the methods followed there are accepted in the greater part of Europe except England and the specific wine countries in North America and Aus- tralia, nay, even in Turkey, the inhabitants of which country congratulate themselves that in Mohammed's time nothing was known concerning brewing, or Mo- hammed certainly would have prohibited his followers from enjoying this beverage as well as the wine, i Bismarck, " The Man of Blood and Iron," made once the remark: "Beer renders people stupid." But the same man did not hesitate to use and enjoy it himself, espe- cially at his receptions of the members of the Reichstag in the Chancellor's Palace, and we still await reports that the use of beer has badly affected his mental ca- pacities. During the last three decades new rivals to the Ba- varian beer have arisen in Austria, at Schwechat and at Pilsen, and last, but not kast, in the great brewing centres of the New World. The world-wide importance beer has won is best 28 HISTORY. illustrated by the different papers devoted expressly to brewing purposes, as: The American Brewer, New York; DerBierbrauer,Qt\\z-&gQ>; The Bavarian Brewer, Munich; The Beer brewer, Leipsic ; The Bohemian Beer- brewer, Prague, and others. THE use of alcoholic beverages, such as wine, beer, etc., was known to most nations of ancient times, as we have seen above; but they were known only in re- gard to their effect upon the body. In respect to a fundamental knowledge of alcohol, the ancients were absolutely in the dark, as the distilling apparatuses of those times were too imperfect. The philosophers of Alexandria are said to have dis- tilled wine, and noticed the combustibility of the dis- tillate. We find the expression, aqua vita, or " water of life," that was afterward generally applied to alcohol, in the Latin translation of Geber's writings eighth century; yet he does not mention anything about the chief char- acteristic of the fluid its combustibility. Since the thirteenth century this fluid has been used for medical purposes, and all alchemists and physicians tried to obtain it in the greatest possible concentra- tion. On this account distillations and rectifications were ALCOHOL. 29 made over and over again. Raimundus Lullus, born at Mallorca in the year 1234, suggested that the phi- losopher's stone, that would change all metals into real gold, might be won from the three natural king- doms. To have it from plants, one had to begin with alcohol. His theory of the preparation of the substance that was to become the philosopher's stone follows: " Accipe nigrum nigrius nigro et ex eo paries octo- decim destilla in vase argenteo, aureo vel vitreo. Et in prima destillatione solum recipe partem prints cum dimidia, et hanc partem iterum pone ad destillandum. Et hujus iterum quartam partem et tertio destilla et hujus recipe duas, et in quarta destillatione pauco mi- nus quam totum. Et sic destilla illam partem usque ad octo vel novem vices, vel decies" This distillate is afterward once more rectified over a very slow fire, during from twenty to twenty-two days: " quanta destillatio ejus fuerit leviori igne, tanto subtilior erit in spiritu et fortitudine " It is hardly worth while to state that Lullus did not find " the philosopher's stone." We know "Work is the true philosopher's stone that changes all metals into gold." The notes of Lullus are, in many points, indistinct; much clearer are the remarks of Basilius Valentinus fourteenth century. He recommends the use of car- bonate of potassium; yet this was accepted much later. Pure alcohol was first manufactured according to this 30 HISTORY. principle by Lowitz, in the year 1796, /. ^., more than four centuries later. What we now call alcohol had, from the eleventh to the sixteenth century, very different names: Aqua ardens, aqua vita, aqua vita ardens, aqua vini, spiritus vini, vinum ardens, mercurius vegetabilis, etc. Since the beginning of the sixteenth century the name of " alcohol " was more and more adopted. It derives its name from the Arabian word "al-kohl," i. e., a name of a fine powder with which the eyelashes are dyed, therefore a substance changed into the finest aggrega- tion of molecules. About the nature and composition of alcohol there were as many different meanings and opinions as there were writers, and each following more fantastic, if it were possible, than the previous one. But all these phantasmagories faded away like fog before the sun when the great French chemist, Lavoisier, inaugurated a new era in chemistry by his discovery of oxygen; he proved that the elementary parts of alcohol were car- bon, hydrogen and oxygen. Originally, it was used for medical purposes only; but gradually people found its effect upon the human body, and drank it, whether they were sick or not, be- cause it worked more rapidly than wine and beer. The general use of alcohol is of comparatively recent date not before the fifteenth century we find in Europe the use of " aqua vita" together with that of wine and beer. COFFEE. 31 Coffee. THE earlier history of the coffee-tree is rather ob- scure; the Greeks and Romans did not know it. Its fruits were used in Abyssinia and Nubia, in Arabia, since the fifteenth century, and in other countries of the Orient since the sixteenth century. The application of coffee-beans for a beverage had its origin in Arabia, and spread from there in the six- teenth century to Egypt and Constantinople. Leon- hard Rauwolf, a German physician, was likely the first that made the coffee known in Western Europe by the publication of his travels in the year 1 573. In A. D. 1 591 Prosper Alpinus brought some beans as a drug from Egypt to Venice. Coffee was drunk in Italy already in the beginning of the seventeenth century, in France and England in the middle, and in Germany at the end, of the same century. A more general use of it, however, cannot be reported before the eighteenth century. The first coffee-house in Europe was opened at Con- stantinople in the year 1551. A century later, in the year 1652, another one was opened in London at New- man's Court in Cornhill by a Greek servant of the merchant Edwards, whose ships sailed to and from the Levant. Paris saw its first cafe opened in the year 1670; it was owned by the Armenian Pascal. The 32 HISTORY. next one in the same city was the Cafe Procope, es- tablished by the Sicilian Procopio, in the year 1725; it was frequented by all the literary men of France that visited Paris, and soon became fashionable, but also the meeting-place of republicans and revolutionists. Vienna opened its first cafe in the year 1694; the privilege was granted to a Polish citizen for the ser- vices he had rendered when the capital was besieged by the Turks in the year 1683. Berlin received its first mocha-temple in the year 1721. King Frederick I. of Prussia, an obstinate enemy of coffee, made the coffee-trade a monopoly; nobody but the clergy and the nobility were permitted to roast their own coffee. The people at large had to pay, in the royal roasting-houses, from six to seven times more than they would have paid at the merchant's. In Leipsic the first coffee-house was opened to the public in the year 1694, in Stuttgart in the year 1712. The infamous Jew Suss, founded in Wuertemberg a coffee-monopoly by granting the privilege of sale only to such people as were able and willing to pay him for it liberally. The colonists that sailed out to find new islands and to found new settlements took the coffee-beans the decoction of which had become already a necessity with them. A mayor of Amsterdam, Wieser, is said to have brought the coffee-tree from Mocha to Batavia, where he established great plantations; this took place at the end of the seventeenth century. From Batavia he TEA. 33 sent 169 young trees to Amsterdam for the Botanical Garden, whence the Jardin des Plantes in Paris receiv- ed one. Captain Declieux took a layer of this to Mar- tinique, where it grew so well that in a few years all the Antilles could be supplied with trees. The consumption of coffee amounts, in England, to i% Ibs., in France to 2J^, in Germany to 4, in Denmark to 55^, in Switzerland to 6, in Holland to 10 to 12, and in the United States to more than 9 Ibs. per head yearly. TEA is the name of a shrub belonging to the Camell- ia family with alternate and simple leaves, not dotted; the flowers are large and showy, with a persistent calyx of five overlapping sepals, and they have many sta- mens, their filaments united at the bottom with each other and with the base of the petals. Formerly different kinds were supposed to exist, all of which were said to be indigenous to China, Japan and India, until Robert Fortune, known by his botani- cal journeys, proved the incorrectness of this opinion. He lived for a long while in the tea districts of China and India for the purpose of studying the manufacture of tea; he showed that all sorts of tea that are thrown upon the market descend from one kind that extreme- ly varies; this variation is shown chiefly in regard to the length and width of the leaves; in the course of a 34 HISTORY. thousand years' cultivation a great number of varieties had sprung forth from this one kind. The tea shrub grows in its wild state 6 to 10 metres high; while the cultivated shrub reaches a height of not more than 2 metres, or 6 feet. The cultivation of tea, according to Chinese tradi- tions of the fourth century, came from Corea to China, and from there to Japan in the ninth century. About the sixth century the Chinese used to drink tea nearly all over their country. The Europeans have tried to plant and cultivate the tea-shrub in Bengal, Ceylon, on the western coast of Africa, in Java and Sumatra, in Brazil, and many other places. In all these districts the shrub grows, but is degenerated detrimentally, as its aroma never reaches that of the genuine Chinese tea. The method of extracting the tein by boiling water has been known in China as long as the cultivation of the shrub; the Europeans, however, learned it very late, first by the Dutch East India Company, about the middle of the seventeenth century, although the first importation of tea to Europe had taken place already in the year 1636. England got its first tea in the year 1666. The consumption of it increased continually, and was general in the eighteenth century. Although tea was believed for a long while a sure and reliable drug for lengthening life, the habit of tea-drinking is not so widely spread as that of coffee. Tea - drinking has become a national habit only WATER. 35 among the Dutch and the English, who imported the tea also to their colonies in North America, the United States, and Canada, to the Cape of Good Hope and to Australia, likewise to Portugal. Russia, Sweden, Nor- way, and the coast countries of middle Europe rank next Who does not know of the great tea-riot in Boston that gave the signal for the outbreak of the Revolution, and shows the importance tea had obtained at that time in a colonist's household ? WATER was believed to be an element from the very earliest times down to only a few decades ago. Moses mentions, in the first chapter of his Genesis, water as one of the first created elementary bodies. The Hindoos and Egyptians regarded it the basis of most of the other bodies. Among the Greeks, Thales 600 B. C. defended the opinion that water was the only true element, and that all other bodies, plants and animals included, were formed out of it. Diodorus, about the year 30 B. C., suggested that rock- crystal developed from the purest water, not under the influence of cold, but under that of the heavenly fire. This opinion of the development of the stone, the char- acteristic ingredient of which is silex, is affirmed by its Greek name, krystallos, or ice. Soon others got up and declared rock-crystal was not formed out of water by heat, but by long-lasting 36 HISTORY. cold. Pliny, after he has spoken of solids and their formation out of warmth and cold, says: " Contraria huic causa crystallum facit, gelu vehe- mentiore concrete*. Non aliubi certe repcritur quam ubi maxime hibernce nives rigent, glaciemque esse certum est, unde et nomen Greed dedere" Seneca Minor and other contemporaries express the same opinion, as does also Isodorus of the seventh century. Agricola of the sixteenth century is the first philos- opher who is opposed to it; in his book De Ortu et Cau- sis Subterraneorum he says: " If the crystal was formed out of water, it naturally would have to be lighter than water, for ice floats on water. He denies emphatically that any stony material might be formed of water with- out any additional ingredients : " Satis intellegimiis^ ex sola aqua non gigni lapidem ullum" In the seventeenth century alchemists believed that an occult chemical transformation of water to stone was possible, and similar fables and humbug were still believed in during the last century. An exception of this rule was Be-cher, who taught that crystals could not be formed of ice, as they are found also in localities where neither severe nor long- lasting cold reigns. Le Roy, in the year 1767, tried to demonstrate be- fore the Academy of Paris, that all experiments made until then did not prove the possibility of changing water into earth. He meant, earth was mixed to the water in a suspended form; that it was not formed anew WATER. 37 by each and every distillation, but that only a part of the suspended earth was precipitated, while the greater part of it was distilled over; that by continuous distil- lation it would be possible to precipitate more and more of the suspended earth, but that the same result could not be obtained with the entire quantity. It was Lavoisier who proved the true origin of this much-disputed earth; the report of his experiments in this direction is contained in the annals of the Academy of Paris for the year 1770. He showed beyond any doubt, that water, even after long boiling in glass ves- sels, was not transformed into earth, but that the earth which was found therein after boiling owed its exist- ence to the glass vessel. The opinion that water was an element was main- tained to the close of the eighteenth century. Cavendish first, in the year 1781, saw that water was produced when hydrogen was burned in the flame of oxygen. In 1783 Watt expressed the opinion that water consisted of oxygen and phlogiston, by which name he very likely meant hydrogen. The undoubted proof for the water's composition of oxygen and hydro- gen was given by the great Lavoisier in the same year; the quantitative analysis was first determined by Gay- Lussac, and Humboldt in the year 1805. By numerous exact experiments it is shown that water contains one volume of oxygen and two volumes of hydrogen, or, to express the same fact in weight, it consists of eight parts of oxygen and one part of hydrogen. 38 HISTORY. Jttimral ALTHOUGH the first experiments for imitating nat- ural mineral waters may be traced back to the middle of the sixteenth century, yet nearly three centuries passed by before the manufacture of them left the track of aimless experiments and was based upon correct scientific principles. The gigantic development of chemistry during the last decades of the eighteenth and the first decades of this century enabled scientific men to prove the ele- mentary compounds of the mineral waters both qualita- tively and quantitatively. To Frederick Adolphus Augustus Struve, M. D., proprietor of the Salomon's drug store in Dresden, Sax- ony, we are indebted for the introduction of the mineral waters into our pharmacopoeia. Aften ten years' rest- less experiments, he opened his first water pavilions in Dresden and Leipsic in the year 1820, the first one in Berlin in the year 1823, together with Geheimrath Soltmann. The first pioneer who undertook in this country the manufacture of mineral waters with great success, is, to our knowledge, Mr. Charles H. Schultz, and many others followed his footsteps. cmlr Diet. mtfr Diet. WE perceive all the impressions that are caused by our surroundings through the medium of our senses; we enjoy nature and its products by these senses and only by these, each of them being equally valuable. " It is to be especially noted, first, that each nerve of sense is only capable of performing the function de- signed for it. The nerve of sight does not enable us to hear, and the nerve of smell only enables us to appre- ciate odors; second, cultivation of the senses, especially if begun in early life, will develop their usefulness; it is true that such training may be carried to the extent of making them a source of misery. Certain persons are painfully conscious of the slightest discord; others al- most instantaneously detect, with a feeling of disgust, the inharmonious blending of tints which, to the aver- age person, is a harmonious one; others, still, are made uncomfortable by an odor which is perceptible to none but themselves. " Cultivation furnishes the accurate hearing of the educated musician, the keen eyesight of the reliable pilot, engineer, and expert microscopist, and the ac- curate touch of the blind." If, now, the senses of sight, touch, and hearing may be trained to the blessing of mankind, why should not the same be done with the senses of taste and smell ? 42 PHYSIOLOGY AND DIET. In some men these two senses are of higher sensi- bility than in others, and we have hardly ever heard that these persons were dissatisfied with their superi- ority. " Taste is the sense by which we discover and recog- nize the flavors of substances. It is made possible through the mucous membrane of the tongue, of the soft palate, and of the back part of the throat, these being, in fact, the organs of taste. Only those sub- stances can be tasted which are dissolved. These, by endosmosis, penetrate the mucous membrane, and reach thus the nerves of taste. Accordingly, dry sugar or salt placed upon the tongue is not tasted till it be- gins to dissolve." The finer the comminution of food, the sooner is it dissolved and tasted. Taste is one of the means by which we distinguish between proper and improper articles of food. But in determining the nature of such articles, it is assisted by the other senses. Undoubtedly much pleasure is lent to the taste of certain substances by their appear- ance and odor; accordingly, one and the same meal will be higher appreciated when served in fine china, on a well-spread table; a drink will be twice and thrice as palatable if prepared by a fine-looking bartender, in fine cut glasses to delight the sight, and when accom- panied by a pleasant remark to charm the ear. Taste in the human being, and also in some of the lower animals, is more or less influenced by imitation, PHYSIOLOGY AND DIET. 43 habit, surroundings, and training. Children fancy cer- tain articles of food and dislike others, because other members of the family do the same. That taste may be developed, especially when assisted by the sense of smell, is seen in expert tea and wine tasters. Although the sense of smell is in man not so acute as the other senses, and its impressions often need to be confirmed by the others, we would be very wrong to undervalue it. Odors, to be recognized, must be presented in a gaseous form, when they are forcibly drawn up by inspiration into the higher portions of the nasal fosses. There is no doubt that the sense of smell may be highly developed, especially in conjunction with other senses, or in case these are deficient. It is related that a certain blind and deaf mute was able to recog- nize, by the sense of smell, any person with whom he had previously come into contact. Every part of an organism is subject to certain alter- ations, caused by mechanical or chemical action; it gradually ceases to work when the products of reaction are not eliminated, and the loss of material is not equaled by fresh nutritives. Accordingly, we may say that the natural condition of every organism depends upon digestion and assimilation. How these two functions work we do not intend to demonstrate, as it can easily be found in any treatise on Physiology; only this we may be permitted to say, that the materials 44 PHYSIOLOGY AND DIET. brought into and dissolved and changed within the or- ganism are the true ministers of said operations. The digested parts of this supply are absorbed by the blood, and deposited by it where need may be, while those parts worthy to be ejected are carried away by the same medium, and delivered for expulsion to kidneys, lungs, glands, etc. If necessary, we can aid nutrition artificially, and we may do the same in regard to digestion by adding cer- tain compounds, as digestives and tonics (pepsin, pancreatin, muriatic acid, phosphates, etc.), to our food or cordials, and the selection of these com- pounds is most highly developed in the art of mixing drinks. Besides food, man requires a number of substances which affect agreeably the tissue and the nerves; they are, to our opinion, necessary for the welfare of an in- dividual, and mainly consist of spices, alcoholic bever- ages, coffee,, tea, chocolate, tobacco, narcotic extracts of plants, as opium, hasheesh, and certain newly dis- covered drugs, cocaine, chloral, chloroform, ether, etc. They more or less irritate the nervous system, and thus dispel the feeling of pain, fatigue, etc., for a certain space of time, and increase the ability of resistance as also the working power. They are perfectly harmless as long as there is full supply of nutritives, and while they are taken reason- ably. Among these substances rank first the alcoholic PHYSIOLOGY AND DIET. 45 beverages. A man in normal condition, and by nor- mal work, requires, per day: 3X oz. of albumen, 3 oz. of fat, 8 oz. of starch and sugar, .8 oz. of salt, 80 oz. of water. From this table we see that the fluids are about five times as great as the solids. If this quantity of liquids is not duly supplied, we suffer from a feeling which we call thirst. Beverages are therefore of the highest hygienic and dietetic importance. In accordance with the highest medical authorities we divide them into: 1. Refreshing beverages: water, mineral waters, acetous waters. 2. Nutritive beverages: emulsions and decoctions of fruits, plants, grain, oats, milk, beef tea, and chocolate. 3. Aromatic beverages: coffee and tea. 4. Alcoholic beverages: wine, beer, alcohol and all fermented drinks. To build up a healthy body we know that liquids are very important; but we know also that they are still more important in cases of sickness, fever, and all dis- eases of the digestive apparatus, when the epithelium is unable to absorb anything but liquids. A look upon the different recipes in this book shows that these drinks, especially the mixed ones, satisfy all requirements, i.e., they are refreshing, nutritive, aro- 46 DIET. matic, and alcoholic ; consequently they must work upon the body most effectively and pleasingly. This is the reason why William's concoctions are longed for by everybody that can afford it, and why they have obtained so wide a fame and reputation. Diet. A PROVERB says: " Milk is the wine of the young and wine is the milk of the aged." An intellectual use of alcohol leads to health and happiness, while its abuse naturally is detrimental; but this book is written for thinking people. Statistics, as well as personal experience, tell us that people enjoying the use of liquors in a reasonable man- ner, reach a higher age and enjoy a better health than those that are totally abstinent; still worse off are those who want to make others believe that they drink nothing, but are abusive behind their screens. All countries and states, where prohibition is not sanctioned by law, are on a higher moral level than those where liquors can be secured only under viola- tion of the law. In numberless cases of sickness physicians do not hesitate one moment to prescribe to the patient medi- cines containing alcoholic stimulants especially when it is required to strengthen the body. Why should be detrimental to the strong, what is useful for the weak PHYSIOLOGY AND DIET. 47 always provided that the strong be of sound intellect and morality ? The present times, nerve-weakening and exciting as they are, require stimulants; and if people cannot get harmless ones they will seek, and, in most cases, find others, the effect of which is highly detrimental for body and mind. Composition of JUrinks anlr tr of THE foundation of all those fluids that are to be taken into consideration for our purpose is formed by one of the most universal elements on our globe the water. It is a conditio sine qua non both for building up and preserving the whole organic world. A cell, the most primitive of all living beings, e. g., a bathybius, as well as the most highly developed ones, as we see them in the higher organisms of the vegetable and animal king- doms, contains water as a fundamental basis. Although there are cells, and groups of them, that may retain vitality for thousands of years, even when in dried-up condition, yet this does not affect the relatively higher developed beings in the least. " Corpora non aguntnisi fluida " is an old chemical rule, and, indeed, stoppage of all functions, or even death, would occur as soon as the necessary water should not be supplied. Water is indispensable for fulfilling the physical and chemical processes, among which ranks highest the process of diffusion, or the Endosmosis and Exosmosis. We feel the lack of water involuntarily, and call this feeling " thirst." The inclination of satisfying this feel- ing by drinking water, or water-containing liquids, is forced upon us by nature. Thus, thirst compels us to drink, and is, therefore, one of these instinctive im- 51 52 COMPOSITION OF DRINKS, ETC. pulses that, because being life-preserving, are physi- ologically of the greatest importance. How we ought to drink, and what, has already been treated upon; it is only left to show what we must not drink. This task will be solved as soon as we have demonstrated what beverages are composed of, and how they are eventually adulterated. Although such a treatise ought to be of a strictly chemical character, it will still be interesting, both to the public in general and to manufacturers especially. Therefore we add here, in short but distinct outlines, a description of the composition of fluids, their chemical characteristics when pure, and their possible adultera- tions. tOater. IT contains, in 100 parts, 88. 8 parts of oxygen and ii.i parts of hydrogen. We know it in three different ag- gregates as vapor, as fluid, and as ice. Being one of the chief means for dissolving the most heterogeneous solid substances, and being capable of mixing itself with most of the liquids, it is never found in nature per- fectly pure; nor is this at all desirable, as chemically pure water would taste vapid. Natural water, e. g., rain-water, contains ingredients that were taken from the atmosphere as nitrogen, carbonic acid gas, dust, salts, germs of organisms, am- monia, nitric and nitrous acids, peroxide of hydrogen. WATER. 53 These ingredients are partly disposed of again by fil- tering through rocks and gravelly soil. Spring-water contains substances of the soil; these, varying accord- ing to the soil's composition, are useful, and in many cases indispensable for the organisms. The sparkling of the water indicates the presence of gases, without which it is never refreshing. Boiling will drive out all gases, precipitate the bicarbonate of lime and some of the coagulable matters, and destroy some of the germs of disease. Solids fixa as we find in water, are chiefly combinations of calcium, magne- sium, alkali metals, aluminium, iron, manganese in form of carbonates, chlorides, sulphates, silicates, etc., and organic particles. Good and palatable drinking water should contain less than yrnnj- of these fixa; some of them are better not found at all, and if they are, they should be in the smallest possible proportions. The limit of lime is -g-oVcj; to great a percentage of magnesia is harmful. Organic particles should be not more than to require fa to -fa % of oxygen for their oxidation, i. e., as a maxi- mum T-J&TT %- The reasons why waters not answering these require- ments are doomed, are: Firstly, it is proven beyond any doubt that the spreading of epidemics is in the closest connection with the composition of water, which, having absorbed germs of disease on one place, deposited them on another; secondly, the presence of too great quantities of organic matter, as also of am- 54 COMPOSITION OF DRINKS, ETC. monia, nitric and nitrous acids, shows generally an impurity of the water this being contaminated by filth from cesspools and other sources. Water, by various methods, may be rid of much of its injurious matter, although a thorough purification is out of question. Filtering through charcoal or oxide of iron will secure water pure enough for use; nor will it lose much of its taste. For special purposes, /. z., for use in hospitals, it is advisable to boil the water first, to cool it, and to add, artificially, carbonic acid gas. Spring waters, which have a large, and by the taste easily distinguishable, amount of salts, are used mostly for therapeutical purposes, some of them because be- ing palatable and refreshing also instead of ordinary drinking water. We have to dwell only on the latter ones to which belong those having but a few of solid ingredients and dissolved carbonic acid gas, not under 40 vol. per cent, as f. /., Apollinaris, the waters of Heppingen and Dorotheenauer Spring at Carlsbad, etc.; likewise the waters containing alkalies and alkalic muriatic acids with a certain quantity of natrium bi- carbonicum and chloride of natrium, besides freely dis- solved carbonic acid gas are frequently used as table waters, as those of Vichy, Giesshuebel, Rodna, Ems, Selters, etc. The waters are either consumed at the springs or bottled; preparations containing their active ingredi- ents, like the pastilles of Bilin, the Carlsbad Salt, etc., MILK. 55 are shipped to all parts of the globe; these preparations must be dissolved according to prescription in a cer- tain volume of water to secure the desired therapeutical effect. Of higher importance, however, are the artificial mineral waters which, in harmony with the exact analysis of the natural waters, are prepared by saturat- ing a solution of the corresponding salts under higher pressure with carbonic acid gas. With these waters the greater or lesser amount of carbonic acid gas, the greater or lesser purity of the materials used for them, the greater or lesser safety in the emballage are utterly essential; therefore it should be borne in mind where to get these waters from; more- over, waters of certain compositions and established names, such as Vichy, etc., should be prepared under the supervision of expert chemists, and never be order- ed from firms that stand under the control of quacks. Itttlk. MILK is composed mainly of water, casein, lactose, fats and mineral ingredients. The fat is only suspend- ed in it, i.e., it is found in infinitely small globules, which float in the colorless solution of the sugar of milk and the protein corpuscles, and which make the fluid appear white. 56 COMPOSITION OF DRINKS, ETC. The average composition of good, pure cows' milk should be as follows: Casein 5.40 parts Butter, 4.16 Sugar of milk, ....*... 4.20 " Mineral ingredients, 0.54 " Water 85.70 " IOO.OO Another composition is given by Dalton : Water 87.02 parts Casein v . . , -. 4.48 " Butter, 3.13 Sugar of milk . 4.77 " Mineral ingredients, 0.60 " IOO.OO The mineral ingredients are chiefly kalium, phos- phate of calcium, chloride of kalium, and chloride of sodium. Milk is one of the healthiest, most nutritive and very digestive beverages, and is prescribed very frequently in cases of diseases of the stomach, of phthisis, etc. In cases of poisoning it serves to coat over the irritated mucous membrane, and thus protect it; it works even as an antidote to metallic poisons by precipitating the metals. It is justly considered the " model food; " necessary as good milk is, it is a common experience to receive it deprived of its cream, diluted with water, or other- wise adulterated by dishonest dealers. A surplus of WINE. 57 water renders the milk thin, and gives it a bluish color, which is often covered by yellow dyestuffs. For preserv- ing, salicylic acid, borax, soda, etc., are added; to give diluted milk more body, different ingredients are dis- solved in it, as corn-starch, flour, dextrine, glue and emulsions of hemp, poppy, etc. It is capable of ab- sorbing noxious odors and emanations, and may con- vey the infection of scarlet and typhoid fevers from in- fected milk-rooms. Great care, therefore, is to be observed in keeping milk. The store-rooms, as the vessels containing it, should be clean and free from odors. The appearance of milk, its taste, its change in boil- ing, and after long standing are, for the majority, the only proofs of its quality. The different lactometers and galactometers furnish satisfactory results only in the hands of experts. tone. WHETHER it should be allowed to artificially im- prove wines, and whether such improvement is to be called adulteration depends entirely on our definition of the word " wine." Wine is either fermented grape- juice, or it is a delicious beverage obtained from fer- mented grape-juice. These two definitions differ very widely. The first one forbids absolutely the applica- tion of any means that might alter the wine, of any sub- 58 COMPOSITION OF DRINKS, ETC. stance that is not grown with the grape; according to it wine must neither be blended nor purified, as the very smallest quantities of any stuff used for such a purpose that would and will remain with the wine alters the same, while alcohol, added for blending, originates from the potato and not from the grape- fruit. This definition, to our opinion, is perfectly ab- surd; the acceptance of it would entitle any judge to condemn any wine-dealer for adulteration as soon as legal proceedings were instituted against him. The main weight is to be laid on wine being a delicious beverage from grape-juice. It may not al- ways be obtained from simple fermentation of grape- juice; there is many a year when the warming sunrays fail to ripen the fruit of the vine, when the must is sour, and the wine, therefore, turns vapid and pungent, so as to create sadness and grief instead of gladness and joy, when taken by us poor mortals. Depriving such must of its surplus of acids, and en- hancing its percentage of sugar means to produce a wine agreeable to the palate, and not injurious to the health, while the taste of the natural wine would have filled every one with disgust. Adulteration of any article may only be spoken of in case the value of said article be diminished, or substances be added that are likely to injure the health. In improving wine the following methods are mainly adopted, and named after their inventors: I. Chaptalizing: The surplus of acids in wine is neu- WINE. 59 tralized, and the deficient sugar is added. Carbonate of calcium is used for neutralizing, in the proportion of 100 parts of chalk to 150 parts of acids. To add the missing sugar we first determine by a saccharometer what percentage of sugar is contained in the wine. Let this be 15%, then we will increase the sugar from 20- 2. Gallizing: Gall has, immediately after the picking, the ripe berries separated from the less ripe ones. The first ones are worked with alone. From the unripe ones he obtains a juice which he does not neutralize, but which he dilutes with water until a certain degree of acid is reached, when he corrects also the lack of sugar. Beyse states of gallized wines: I. A constantly good wine may be obtained, even in poor years. 2. They stand transportation without change. 3. They require only a year's attention and care. 4. They contain more alcohol. 5. The quantity is increased, while the quality is improved. Of other methods we only name that of Petiot. Wines are, especially right after fermentation, liable to many changes which alter them for the worse, or may even utterly ruin them. Pasteur, the eminent French chemist, has taught us the nature of these diseases, which are due to the presence of bacilli or germs. As general hints for protection are to be minded: Try to stop the development of these germs by the most careful cleanliness of all vessels and rooms by utmost scouring and extensive ventilating. Infected 60 COMPOSITION OF DRINKS, ETC. vessels, barrels, tubs, etc., are to be removed from the cellars, and, be this impossible, the disinfection must be done there. The percentage of alcohol, as far as it is not due to blending, is in closest connection with the quantity of sugar in the must; no wine can contain more than seventeen vol. per cent, of alcohol, as with this degree the transformation of sugar into alcohol by fermenta- tion is stopped, and any surplus is caused by blending. All southern wine-growers are fond of increasing the sugar in their wines, thus, Australia produces hardly any wine below 26%. The coloring of wines offers many chances for adul- teration. Immense quantities of white wines are thus made red wines, and even liquids that can boast of no relationship to the grape-juice at all are transformed into red wines by coloring materials. Dyestuffs mainly used for this purpose are : berries from sambucus niger, sambucus ebulus, vaccinium myrtillus, ligustrum vulgaris, phytolacca decandra, the flowers of wialva arborea, althea rosea, and malva silvestris, beets, logwood and Brazilwood, cochineal, indigo, fuchsine, and other aniline colors. Of these dyestuffs the aniline colors are easiest to de- tect, while natural colors, having very great similarity to the natural dyestuff of wine, sometimes render it, even to an expert, difficult to prove their presence. BEER. 6l Seer. BEER or to call it by the name that is at present more en vogue, Lager consists, or at least ought to consist, of a fermented extract of malt and hops. While in the first quarter of this century this healthy and agreeable beverage used to be prepared often enough from a mixture containing many violent poisons, as Indian hemp, opium, sulphuric acid, sulphate of iron, etc. nay, the addition of strychnia, even, was suspected the principal adulterations of it, at the present time, consist of water, to increase the bulk of the fluid, and burnt sugar and salt, to restore in a measure its color and flavor. The addition of water does not render beer injurious, but it cheats people out of their money. Burnt sugar, or treacle, was extensively employed, with the view of increasing the dark color of porter, stout, or other heavy beers; the ingredient known as essentia bina, formerly used in the manufacture of beer, con- sisted of moist sugar boiled in an iron vessel until it had become syrupy, perfectly black, and extremely bitter. The acidity in beer is very desirable; it depends, probably, on the presence of malic and lactic acid. In many cases, however, acetic acid, or vinegar, is formed in beer from a decomposition of excessive fermentation of its sugar; the beverage is then very sour, and unfit 62 COMPOSITION OF DRINKS, ETC. for use. There is some reason to believe that sulphuric acid is occasionally used to give astringency to beer, in which case the addition of chloride of barium to the liquor will cause the formation of a bulky precipitate insoluble in nitric acid. Sulphate of iron was, and probably is still, employed for restoring the flavor of beer. Should this chemical be present in an alcoholic beverage, by add- ing ammonia and sulphide of ammonium to the fluid a black precipitate will be produced. More recently, trials have been made to substitute picric acid instead of hops; beer prepared in this way is nothing but a solution of glucose, augmented or rather spiced with picric acid. Taste by itself fails in helping us to distinguish the presence of this acid, but Lassaigne gave us the means of detecting even the slightest pro- portions of said acid in beer. By shaking good, un- adulterated beer with an excess of pulverized burned bone-dust it loses all its color, as the powder absorbs all the dyestuffs; but when doing the same with beer adulterated by addition of picric acid, it will not lose its yellowish tint. It would be a great comfort to all beer-drinkers to know that such adulterations belong to the past; but, though sorry to say so, we are of the opinion of old Dr. Faust: " It's true the message I do hear, yet I cannot believe it." SPIRITS. 63 IN hardly any article of merchandise so many adul- terations occur as in the stronger alcoholic liquids. And to these falsifications it is due that the use of alco- hol so often shows its most detrimental effect on the health, especially on the brain of man. Spirits may be adulterated with water, sugar, capsi- cum, cinnamon or cassia, various sulphates, free sul- phuric acid and lead. Water has been added to them in such a degree that their commercial value was re- duced to the enormous extent of more than one-half. This lack of body was covered partly by sugar. Hassall says in his Adulterations of Food, etc.: " It is impossible to conceive of more scandalous adulterations of spirits than those by cayenne pepper or grains of paradise, for they are almost equally hot and pungent. The introduction into the stomach of raw spirits is suf- ficiently destructive of itself, but the addition of such powerful and acrid substances as cayenne pepper and grains of paradise forms a compound which no human stomach or system, however strong, could long with- stand." The different kinds of spirits are obtained in a com- paratively crude state from the grain by the distiller. They are afterward submitted to purification by the rectifier, as well as procured of a higher strength. The 64 COMPOSITION OF DRINKS, ETC. impurity of raw spirits arises principally from the pres- ence of a peculiar volatile oil, termed fusel oil, and pos- sessing very deleterious properties. Dr. Taylor re- marks of this oil, " that in small quantities it produces intoxication. I have experienced the effects of the va- pour and found them to be giddiness, accompanied with a feeling of suffocation and a sense of falling. Headache followed which lasted half an hour." Two drachms of the oil killed a rabbit in two hours, three drachms in an hour, half an ounce in a quarter of an hour, and one ounce in four minutes. Much of the unwholesomeness of spirits imperfectly rectified arises from its contamina- tion with fusel oil. To show what infernal concoctions are served to the public we put down only one recipe out of a great number, taken from a book that is said to be the best on the market. To manufacture whiskey, the following Bourbon Oil recipe is given: Take Fusel Oil, 64 oz. " Acetate of Potassium, 4 " " Sulphuric Acid, 4 " Dissolve Sulphate of Copper, y z " and Oxalate of Ammonium, . . . Yz" each in water, 4 " Add Black Oxide of Manganese i " Place them all in a glass percolator and let them rest for twelve hours. Then percolate and put into a glass still, and dis- till half a gallon of the Bourbon Oil. Saptenti sat ! THE quantity of food required by a normal man de- pends not only upon his size, the greater amount of muscular work, but, in the first place, on the climate. A body exposed to a cool, bracing atmosphere, or to extreme cold demands an increased supply of food. The ravenous appetite noticed among the inhabitants of cold climates may be due in part to the fact that their food-supply is very irregular, as to make them eat to excess when supplied with food. According to Dr. Hayes, the arctic explorer, the daily ration of the Esquimaux, is from twelve to fifteen pounds of meat, about one-third of which is fat. The demand for fatty substances increases with the greater cold; hence the Esquimaux as all other inhabitants of the arctic regions, do hardly know anything drinkable but fatty bever- ages, such as cod-liver oil, sperm oil, etc., of which they use from four to five pounds daily. The temperate zones, varying very much in their temperature and moisture according to the different elevations, the greater or lesser distance from oceans, the greater or lesser exposure to warm and cold winds, require what we might name a general diet. People in the parts nearer to the tropics will regulate their diet in accordance with the rules prescribed for these, while those nearer to the arctic regions will have to 68 ETHNOGRAPHY. accommodate themselves to their demands/ Every- where, however, we find a desire for fermented bever- ages, be it wine or beer, whiskey or brandy. The Kirghisians' favorite drink is the Kumyss, pre- pared from fermented horse-milk. The inhabitants of Korea (Eastern Asia) prepare their wine of rice or millet, of which they are extremely fond. The Japanese make their wine mostly of rice, and call it Saki. r *Although we must warn every man of the Caucasian race not to yield too much to the enjoyment of alco- holic beverages within the tropics, because there every- thing ought to be shunned that aids in producing more individual heat and needs much oxygen for combustion, yet we must state that this restriction must be confined to white people only. The indigenous inhabitants do not seem to suffer at all from their fermented beverages, at least not more than white people from theirs. Ample proofs of it we find in the publications of explorers. In the following we want to give some testimonials for the correctness of our assertion: " As the people were amiable .... we had soon an abundance of .... plantain and palm wines for cheer." STANLEY: Through the Dark Continent, October 1 8, 1876. " Tippu Tib gave a banquet of rice and roasted sheep to the expedition; and malofu, or palm wine, from Mpsi- ka Island, assisted to maintain the high spirits." Ibid, December 26, 1876. ETHNOGRAPHY. 69 " We supposed them to be dancing and enjoying their palm wine, the delicious and much-esteemed malofu." Ibid, February 10, 1877. " But the people, upon whom our liberality had pro- duced too strong an effect, would not permit us to do so (leave) until we had further celebrated our acquaint- ance with copious draughts of their delicious wine (sweet maramba or banana wine)." Ibid, March 26, 1875. " With rather glazed eyes they offered us some of the equatorial nectar. The voyage had been long on this day, and we were tired, and it might be that we sighed for such cordial, refreshing drink as was now proffered to us. At any rate, we accepted their hospitable gift, and sucked heartily, with bland approval of the deli- cacy of the liquid." Ibid, April, 1875. " Refreshments were not wanting to cheer the dan- cers. Great masses of beef were roasted over glorious fires, and many jars of beer and maramba, brought from Bwina and Komeh, invited the special attention of the thirsty." Ibid, July 17, 1875. " A great drinking of maramba wine and potent beer followed." Ibid, October 29, 1875. The Barabra in northeast Africa prepare a beverage, " Merissa," of the flour of Duchn, by pouring over it boiling water and letting it ferment for awhile. The yellowish - looking, sparkling, sour - tasting fluid is changed to a beer by adding some herbs. The Bar- abras are ever so fond of this liquid. 70 ETHNOGRAPHY. The Ketchuas, the descendants of the old Incas, know no higher enjoyment than drunkenness; each festival is celebrated by excessive drinking. Their fa- vorite beverage is " Chicha" (pronounced Tschitscha), a fermented maize decoction, cooling, opening, nutri- tious, and intoxicating, if taken in great quantities. The Indians of the Caribbean Sea prepare fermented beverages from the Mandioca root. Paiwari, Paiwa, Kassiri, are the names of just as many fermented drinks. A specific beverage of the Hottentots is the " Krii," or honey-beer; it is made of wild honey, water and the fermented decoction of the Krii-root. Likewise they understand how to prepare alcoholic liquids by infus- ing berries. Between the Senegal and the Niger everything is concentrated upon the enjoyment of alcoholic drinks. The negro fond of drinks, may it be wine, beer, or al- cohol is willing to acknowledge the supremacy of the European, and is an enemy to Mohammedanism. Vice versa, the negro that does not drink is a follower of Mohammed, whether he knows who Mohammed was or not. It may occur that a drinker, after a bacchanal, in repentance of it, shaves his hair closely, with the exception of the centre; then he is " Tub," or a con- vert, and will join the public religious services of the Mohammedans. The drinker, however, wears his full hair. If he be obliged to require the services of a bar- ber, i. e., of a piece of glass or a sharpened shell, he ETHNOGRAPHY. 7 1 will take great care to leave a wreath of hair, in order never to be taken for a " Tub." From afar you may distinguish with comparative surety the one that does not drink (Sering) from the one that drinks (Tjedo), respectively, the Mohammedan from the heathen or Christian. Both hate and despise each other, and some tribes, as the Diobas and the Sarrars, shoot every Mo- hammedan at sight. On the other side, ask a believer in Islamism what should be done with a drinker, and he will make a significant motion with his hand around the throat, and in most cases a drinker is beheaded on the spot. But as the proverb says, " II y a des accom- modements avec le del" the teetotalers help themselves by swallowing rather large quantities of cologne-water. (Dtir Inscription of a (Sreek Banquet BEFORE the invited guest went to the entertainment he made his toilette: that is, he bathed, perfumed him- self, and donned his best clothes and shoes. The table was usually spread in the andronitis, or reception room for men, and the guest, after exchang- ing salutations with his entertainers, took the place assigned to him, the most honorable being that at the side of the host. Servants removed the shoes of the guests and purified the feet from the dust of the streets. Then they reclined upon couches with bright coverings and hangings, resting the left arm upon a cushion, so as to leave the right hand free. As a rule, there were two guests to each couch. Before each the slaves placed a table spread with viands, and brought meat, fish, and sauces in dishes, and bread, cakes, and fruit in baskets. The guest had no plate nor knife for him- self, and as for forks, they were unknown, but a spoon was placed at his disposal. The meat was served cut into small pieces, which he took with the fingers of the right hand, and dipped into the sauces. After the meal, as before it, the servants carried around water to wash the hands, and during the meal the fingers were wiped, if necessary, on bread or a piece of dough placed for the purpose. The repast usually consisted of two courses, of which 75 76" OUR ANCESTORS. the first was fish and meat, with the vegetables and other hors-d'oeuvres, and the second the dessert of pastry, cakes, and fruit. While the meal proper continued, there was no drinking, nor was it the custom to converse while eat- ing. Conversation began with the second part of the entertainment, the symposion or carousal, for which the tables were removed, and the floor cleansed of all fragments. Other tables were then brought in by the servants, covered with salted cakes a kind of bretzels cheese and other viands provocative of thirst. The great mixing bowls were brought in, also pitchers of water cooled in snow, and jugs of unmixed wines, ladle-shaped dippers, beakers, and cups deep and shallow, of graceful forms, and the queer horn- shaped vessels, called rhyta. The youngest and hand- somest slaves were chosen to wait on the guests, who crowned their heads and garlanded their breasts with myrtle and violets, ivy and roses, not merely as a sign of festivity, but to cool their glowing temples, and, as they thought, to counteract the heady qualities of the wine. Music was then brought in, song and dance de- lighted ear and eye, and Bacchos, attended by the Muses and the Graces, ruled the hour, often until all were sunk in intoxication. The Greek loved wine, and hanored it in art and song. He loved it not merely as a means of sensual enjoyment: he used it as the care-dispeller, the bring- DESCRIPTION OF A ROMAN BANQUET. 77 er of joy and mirth. Wine raised the spirits of the youth, and taught age to forget its gray hairs and dis- regard its infirmities. J3e0criptton of a Homan Banquet. THE chief meal of the Romans took place in "the evening, and was the last meal of the day. In early morning, before going out, it was the custom to break the fast on bread and salt, eaten with fruit, cheese or olives; about noon followed the luncheon, or prandium; and then about midway between noon and sunset, though often much later, the ccena, which might be prolonged far into the night. The prandium was sometimes more substantial, and comprised fish, eggs, shell-fish and wine; but the proper art of the kitchen was reserved for the ccena. This consisted usually of a variety of entrees, provocative of appetite, followed by two very substantial courses and a des- sert. But the Romans were not at first thus luxurious. In the early time a kind of porridge of pulse formed their principal food, and this, with the addition of vege- tables and leguminous fruits, especially beans, remain- ed the diet of the lower classes at all times. Down to the year 174 B. C., there were neither cooks nor bakers in the city who regularly followed their trades. The Asiatic wars first made the Romans acquainted 78 OUR ANCESTORS. with the luxuries of the table, and furnished them with cooks, bakers and confectioners in the persons of slaves who were sold at high prices. Thenceforth gastronomy became a study, and the ordering and pre- paration of a dinner a science and an art. The Re- public had already had a Lucullus, whose name ever after was associated with sumptuous repasts; but the gastronomic art, for which he was so renowned, did not attain its perfection and glory until imperial times. Then, when Rome had extended her sway over the whole world, the expansion of trade and intercourse brought the dainties of all lands to the capital; the farthest East, and the farthest West, the delicacies of India, the spices of Arabia, the fish and shell-fish of the Atlantic, the game of Gaul and Germany, and the dates of the oases, all met in the Roman kitchen. The Em- peror Vitellius, perhaps the most enormous eater that the Empire ever knew, sent out his legions to hunt game where it was found in the highest perfection, and employed his fleets in furnishing his table with fresh fish. So many arms were set in motion by a single stomach ! At this time it was that all the breeding and fattening establishments were erected. Remark- ably large or fine fish were bought by wealthy gour- mands at fabulous prices, as many anecdotes tell us, but probably more for the sake of notoriety than any- thing else. Fish, oysters, snails, mussels and other shell-fish, of which the Roman kitchen boasted a greater variety DESCRIPTION OF A ROMAN BANQUET. 79 than our own, were supplied from all parts of the Em- pire, and the epicures knew well where the choicest were to be found, and the most delicate modes of pre- paring them. The mullet or sea-barbel, a fish highly esteemed, was often brought alive to the table that the guests might have visible proof of its freshness. When the favorite Italian oysters began to pall on the ap- petite, recourse was had to the " natives " of Britain. The villa furnished fowls, which were fattened in the dark, and ducks and geese fed with figs and dates; the volarium or aviary: fieldfares, snipes, quails, pheasants, and smaller birds. Storks, cranes, flamingos, and especially peacocks, were also often served at Roman tables. Vitellius and Apicius that gourmand who devoured his whole large fortune and, when reduced to his last million, killed himself because life was no longer worth having pre- pared a dish of the tongues of flamingoes, and Elaga- balus of their brains. Among quadrupeds the pig was in highest favor, and more than fifty ways were known of dressing its flesh. Wild boars were often served whole, and epicures could tell by the flavor from what region the animal came. Sausages of various kinds were a favorite dish, both hot and cold; and hucksters on the streets served them to customers from small, portable stoves. The best sausages, as well as the best hams, came from Gaul. There was an abundant supply of salads and vegetables; asparagus was cultivated to a large size; many kinds of 80 OUR ANCESTORS. cabbages were grown, with turnips, artichokes, pump- kins and cucumbers, peas and beans, mushrooms and truffles, and many plants and herbs used for flavoring. Nor did the Roman table lack rare and choice wines, kept in jars or bottles of baked clay. They were prized in proportion to their age; and each jar bore a label, showing in whose consulship the wine had been made. Campania furnished the best Italian wines, of which the Caecuban held the first rank, the Falernian the next, while the third place was claimed by several vintages; but whoever was forced to drink the Vatican was an object of general commiseration. Greek wines, too, had their place in the Roman cellars. As, with the increasing luxury the customs at the table were more and more fashioned after those of the Greeks, though incompar- ably more luxurious, so, like the Greek, the Roman rarely drank wine undiluted. He mingled it with water, and cooled it with snow; while for the winter he had a warm drink the calda, made of wine, water, honey, and spice, for preparing which there was a special ves- sel, the caldarium, with a small furnace of charcoal in the interior, on the principle of the Russian samovar. Still another beverage, called mulsurn, which was drunk at breakfast, was prepared of must, honey, and spices. The Roman table was thus liberally provided, and though many dishes seem to us of questionable taste, still, the achievements of Romans in the culinary line do them high credit. Even in Caesar's time, at a pon- DESCRIPTION OF A ROMAN BANQUET. 8l tifical banquet, attended by six priests and as many priestesses, the following was the menu: First course (intended merely as a whet to appetite) : conger eels, oysters, two kinds of mussels, thrushes on asparagus, fat fowls, a ragout of oysters and other shell-fish, with black and white marrons. Second course: a variety of shell-fish and other marine animals, becaficos, haunches of venison, a wild boar, a pasty of becaficos and other birds. Third and principal course: the ud- ders of swine, boar's head, fricassee of fish, fricassee of sow's udder, ducks of various kinds, hares, roast fowls with pastry, and Picentine bread. This by no means meagre bill of fare was far sur- passed in later times, especially in the pastry and con- fectionery; and this part of the repast was distinguished by the originality and artistic forms of its devices, in which the confectioner rivaled the statuary. 82 OUR ANCESTORS. 21 Homan Banquet ?Be0crtbeb BY QUINTUS HORATIUS FLACCUS. SATIRARUM LIBER II. VIII. TRANSL. BY P. FRANCIS. [This is obviously a satire on a person of bad taste giving a dinner to men of superior rank, where every delicacy of the sea- son, though commended with ostentation by the host, is either tainted by being kept too long, or spoiled by bad cookery, and disgraced by the awkwardness of the attendants.] HORACE, FUNDANIUS HORACE. They told me that you spent the jovial night With Nasidienus, that same happy wight, From early day, or you had been my guest; But, prithee, tell me how you liked the feast. FUNDANIUS. Sure never better. HORACE. Tell me, if you please, How did you first your appetite appease ? FUNDANIUS. First, a Lucanian boar, of tender kind, Caught, says our host, in a soft southern wind: Around him lay whatever could excite, With pungent force, the jaded appetite; Rapes, lettuce, radishes, anchovy brine, With skerrets and the lees of Coan wine. This dish removed, a slave, expert and able, With purple napkin wiped a maple table; A ROMAN BANQUET. 83 Another sweeps the fragments of the feast, That nothing useless might offend the guest. Like Ceres' priestess dark Hydaspes rears A bowl that Caecuba's rich vintage bears, While of the Chian grape, the much-famed juice, But dead and vapid, Alcon's hand produce. " If Alban or Falernian please you more," So says our host, "you may have both, good store." Poor wealth, indeed ! HORACE. But, tell me, who were there, Thus happy, to enjoy such luscious fare ? FUNDANIUS. On the first couch I haply lay between Viscus and Varius, if aright I ween ; Servilius and Vibidius both were there, Brought by Maecenas; and with him they share The middle bed. Our master of the feast On the third couch, in seat of honor placed, Porcius betwixt and Nomentanus lies Porcius, who archly swallows custard pies While Nomentanus, with his finger, shows Each hidden dainty, which so well he knows; For we, poor folk, unknowing of our feast, Eat fish and wild fowl of no common taste. But he, to prove how luscious was the treat, With a broiled flounder's entrails crowds my plate. Then told me: Apples are more ruddy bright, If gathered by fair Luna's waning light. He best can tell you where the difference lies But here Servilius to Vibidius cries: " Sure to be poison'd, unrevenged we die, Unless we drink the wretched talker dry. Slave, give us larger glasses ! " Struck with dread, A fearful pale our landlord's face o'erspread; 84 OUR ANCESTORS. Great were his terrors of such drinking folk, Because with too much bitterness they joke. Or that hot wines, dishonoring his feast, Deafen the subtle judgment of the taste. When our two champions had their goblets crown'd, We did them justice, and the glass went round; His parasites alone his anger fear'd. And the full flask unwillingly they spar'd. In a large dish an outstretch'd lamprey lies, With shrimps all floating round ; the master cries: " This fish, Maecenas, full of roe was caught, For, after spawning time, its flesh is naught. The sauce is mixed with olive-oil; the best And purest from the vats Venafran press'd. And as it boil'd we pour'd in Spanish brine, Nor less than five year old Italian wine. A little Chian 's better when 'tis boil'd, By any other it is often spoil'd. Then was white pepper o'er it gently pour'd, And vinegar of Lesbian vintage sour'd. I, first among the men of sapience, knew, Roquets and herbs in cockle brine to stew; Though in the same rich pickle, 'tis confess'd, His unwash'd crayfish sage Curtillus dress'd." But lo ! the canopy that o'er us spreads, Tumbled in hideous ruin on our heads; With dust, how black ! not such the clouds arise When o'er the plain a northern tempest flies. Some horrors yet more horrible we dread, But raise us when we found the danger fled. ******** Poor Rufus droop'd his head, and sadly cried, As if his only son untimely died. Sure he had wept, till weeping ne'er had end, But Nomentanus thus upraised his friend: " Fortune, thou cruelest of powers divine, To joke poor mortals is a joke of thine." A ROMAN BANQUET. 85 While Varius, with a napkin, scarce suppress'd His laughter. Balatro, who loves a jest, Cries: " Such is the lot of life, nor must you claim For all your toils a fair return of fame. While you are tortured thus, and torn with pain, A guest like me, polite to entertain, With bread well baked, with sauces season'd right, With slaves in waiting, elegantly tight, Down rush the canopies, a trick of fate, Or a groom footman, stumbling, breaks a plate. Good fortune hides, adversity calls forth A landlord's genius and a leader's worth." To this mine host: " Thou ever gentle guest, May all thy wishes by the gods be bless'd, Thou best good man ! " But when we saw him rise, From bed to bed the spreading whisper flies. No play was half so fine. HORACE. But prithee say, How afterwards you laugh'd the time away. FUNDANIUS. " Slaves (cries Vibidius), have you broach 'd the cask ? How often must I call for the other flask ? " With some pretended joke our laugh was dress'd, Servilius ever seconding the jest; When you, great host, return 'd with alter'd face, As if to mend with art your late disgrace. The slaves behind, in mighty charger bore A crane, in pieces torn, and powder 'd o'er With salt and flour, and a white gander's liver Stuff'd fat with figs, bespoke the curious giver, Besides the wings of hares, for, so it seems, No man of luxury the back esteems. Then saw we blackbirds, with o'erroasted breast, Laid on a board, and ring-doves rumpless dress'd ! 86 OUR ANCESTORS. Delicious fare ! did not our host explain Their various qualities in endless strain, Their various natures; but we fled the feast, Resolved in vengeance nothing more to taste; As if Canidia, with empoison'd breath, Worse than a serpent's, blasted it with death. 21 IRogal ftast 2ltnong % A. D. 448. (Edward Gibbon: The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire.} THE Roman ambassadors, both of the East and of the West, were twice invited to the banquets where Attila feasted with the princes and nobles of Scythia. Maximin and his colleagues were stopped on the threshold, till they had made a devout libation to the health and prosperity of the king of the Huns, and were conducted, after this ceremony, to their respective seats in a spacious hall. The royal table and couch, covered with carpets and fine linen, was raised by several steps in the midst of the hall; and a son, an uncle, or, perhaps, a favorite king were ad- mitted to share the simple and homely repast of Attila. Two lines of small tables, each of which contained three or four guests, were ranged in order on either hand, the right was esteemed the most honorable; but the Romans ingenuously con- fess they were placed on the left, and that Beric, an unknown chieftain, most probably of the Gothic race, preceded the rep- resentatives of Theodosius and Valentinian. The barbarian monarch received from his cupbearer a goblet filled with wine, and courteously drank to the health of the most distinguished guest, who rose from his seat, and expressed in the same manner his loyal and respectful vows. This ceremony was successively performed for all, or at least for the illustrious per- sons, of the assembly; and a considerable time must have been consumed, since it was thrice repeated as each course or service was placed on the table. But the wine still remained after the meat had been removed, and the Huns continued to indulge their intemperance long after the sober and decent ambassadors of the A ROYAL FEAST AMONG THE HUNS. S/ two empires had withdrawn themselves from the nocturnal ban- quet. Yet before they retired they enjoyed a singular opportunity of observing the manners of the nation in their convivial amuse- ments. Two Scythians stood before the couch of Attila and recited verses, which they had composed to celebrate his valor and his victories. A profound silence prevailed in the hall, and the attention of the guests was captivated by the vocal harmony, which revived and perpetuated the memory of their own exploits: a martial ardor flashed from the eyes of the warriors, who were impatient for battle; and the tears of the old men expressed their generous despair that they could no longer partake the danger and glory of the field. This entertainment, which might be con- sidered as a school of military virtue, was succeeded by a farce that debased the dignity of human nature. A Moorish and a Scythian buffoon (dwarf) successively excited the mirth of the rude spectators by their deformed figure, ridiculous dress, antic gestures, absurd speeches, and the strange, unintelligible con- fusion of the Latin, the Gothic, and the Hunnic languages; and the hall resounded with loud and licentious peals of laughter. In the midst of this intemperate riot, Attila alone, without a change of countenance, maintained his steadfast and inflexible gravity, which was never relaxed, except on the entrance of Irnac, the youngest of his sons: he embraced the boy with a smile of paternal tenderness, gently pinched him on the cheek, and betrayed a partial affection, which was justified by the assurance of his prophets that Irnac would be the future support of his family and empire. 88 OUR ANCESTORS. 21 Jflmtr of (Emperor Cl)arle0 tl. (1S19-15S6). [This is a dinner bill of fare, with which the city of Halle hon- ored Charles V. on a fast-day. J 1. Raisins in malt-flour, 2. Fried eggs, 3. Pancakes, 4. Steamed carrots, 5. Fried slices of bread, 6. A covered porridge, 7. A high pasty, 8. Pea-soup with marrow, covered richly with peas and eggs, 9. Yellow codfish, boiled in butter, 10. Carps, boiled, 11. Fried fish, with bitter oranges, spiced, 12. Sweet pikes, 13. Pulverized kernels, with almonds, 14. Maize in almonds' milk, 15. Fried fish, with small olives, 1 6. Cakes, 17. Pears and confect. " His Majesty ate heartily, God bless His appetite, and took only three draughts from a Venetian glass." Itinte of i in ti)l)tcl) (Drkr 0l)oulb l)ej) be Stroeb at a Ecpast? tiinte of ttJine0 an& in rber StyouRr Styeg be Qtwtb at a WINE is, at each and every festival, of such impor- tance, that it at least requires the same care and atten- tion as the meals: if these form but the material part of a banquet, then wine represents its intellectual, psychi- cal contents, and there is nothing more provoking to a true gourmand than to have the most select meals served with ordinary or inferior wines, or in improper combination. It requires much knowledge and intel- lect, not only to select really good and genuine wines, and to keep them in the best possible condition, but to pick them out deliberately in harmony with the dishes, and to have them brought on the table in a manner to show all their excellency. The old Greeks and Romans used to mix their wines with water, and this habit was followed through the greater part of the mediaeval age, because adulteration of wines was nearly unknown. The praiseworthiness of certain brands was found out but gradually, and several interesting little stories may illustrate this: A butler of Bishop John de Fugger had to travel ahead of His Eminence 9 1 92 HOW WINES SHOULD BE SERVED. and to mark every inn where he should find good and palatable wine, with the word Est (is). Now, one day he came to Monte Fiasco, and was so delighted with the beverage he found there, that he marked on the en- trance door of the inn: "Est, Est, Est" The bishop came, remained there, and drank himself to a blessed death. Less known, but not less interesting, is the following story which, however, seems to be in little accordance with the historical facts we put down in regard to cham- pagne wines. Emperor Wenzel (1378-1400) came to Rheims in the year 1397 to make a treaty with Charles VI. of France. He found the wine that grew in the vicinity superior to all others; on its account he de- layed the treaty, and when, finally, it was agreed upon he could not yet possibly make up his mind to leave the so hospitable city of Rheims, but devoted another entire year to the study of the wines of the neigh- borhood. Besides the discrimination of wines, according to their color, into red and white ones, we may divide them also as follows: I. Sweet, or so-called liquor wines. 2. Acidulous wines. 3. Tannic wines. 4. Al- coholic wines. 5. Sparkling wines. We do not intend to bore the kind reader by enumerating the hundreds of brands both in this coun- try and in Europe; we want only to show how, at a dinner, wines should be combined with the different courses. For every two to four guests a bottle of red HOW WINES SHOULD BE SERVED. 93 wine and one of a light white wine is required, e.g., St. Julien, Pontet Canet, or Ober-Ingelheimer, Affenthaler and Markgrafler; after the soup, port wine, Madeira, sherry, Malvasy, Marsala, etc.; selected wines are served in small glasses. A good white wine, as Forster, Rauenthaler, Pisporter, or another Rhine or Moselle wine, but light, is given with the fish; with the re- leves and entrees, Bordeaux; with ragouts, mayon- naises, or vegetables and chops, Burgundy or heavy Rhine wine; with the roast, champagne; to pasties and entremets serve a fine, red wine, but not too acidulous, e. g., St. Emilion, Brane Mouton, Chateau Margaux; for the dessert, a heavy sweet wine, as Malaga, Mus- cat-Lunel, Alicante, Rivesaltes, Tokay, Menescher, Frontignan, Syracuse, or Greek wine. This is, of course, only to be followed at great ban- quets when you want to make a display; for smaller parties a good Bordeaux, a good Rhine wine or Mo- selle, and perhaps a bottle of champagne, or one of sweet wine will be sufficient. For "dejeuners " mostly a light red and a white wine are served, with one or two brands of heavy sweet wines. If the dejeuner be warm, you give Chablis to oysters, Moselle to fish or meat salads, Bordeaux to chops, roast beef, etc., white Burgundy or fine Rhine wine to roasts; to bread, butter, and cheese English ale, Ba- varian beer or porter, or, at discretion, a Spanish or Hungarian wine. For supper never serve any of those heavy sweet 94 HOW WINES SHOULD BE SERVED. wines, but take Bordeaux, Rhine wine, or another good white wine, and let follow champagne or a bowl. All these wines must have a certain degree of tem- perature when they develop their virtues best; without it the " bouquet" of a wine will never be developed fully. The lighter white wines must be served very fresh and cool; put inferior Rhine wines and Moselle on ice, but fine Rhine wines and white Bordeaux must never be too cold; red wine ought to have a tempera- ture of about 58-6o F.; Burgundy is to be of the common cellar temperature, as also Hungarian wines, Madeira, Malaga, and all heavy sweet wines; the latter ones ought to be rather warm than cold, and be taken from the cellar a while before using. Champagne, however, must be very cold and bcfrapf/for this pur- pose, i. e., it must be placed in a cooler with cracked ice mixed with a little salt. 0ome Sample Jttetws. ^FESTAL DINNERS IN HONOR OF THE PRESENCE OF H/S IMPERIAL ROYAL HIGHNESS, THE CROWN-PRINCE KREDERICK: -IN- HAMBOURG, APRIL 20, 1877. Real Turtle ) Mo & et Chandon, > Grand Crtmant Imperial, Consomme. ) Rosderer carte blanche. Truffes de Perigord en serviette i i$34 Timbales a la Richelieu. \ Sherry. Turbot, Sauce Hollandaise, \ T S68 Rauenthalerberg-Auslese, Saumon du Rhin, Sauce Ge- > nevoise. ; J 868 Konigsmosel. Filet de Bceuf a la Jardiniere. } 1858 Chdteau-Leoville Pay/tre". Poulardes du Mans Truffees. } 1858 Clos- Vougeot. Escalopes de Foie Gras a la ) 1858 Parisienne. \ Hermitage Rouge. Bastion de Homards au ) i8n Naturel. \ Vin de Madere. Fonds d'Artichauts a 1'Ital- \ t 8^8 ienne, Asperges en Branches. ) Clos- Montr achet. Becasses en Canapes aux ) 1859 Laitues. { Pichon Longueville. Gelee de vin du Champagne, \ 1864 Nougat Blanc a la Turque, > Chateau d' Y quern Creme de Creme d' Ananas. 3 Tete. Beurre et Fromage. \ * ^ Z \ Vtn d Oporto, rouge et blanc. Desserts et Fruits. | t86 * CMteau La fi tte > j Schlossabzug . 97 9 8 SOME SAMPLE MENUS. SCHLOSS HOTEL, HEIDELBERG. Festal Dinner of the Secretaries of the Treasuries August 5, 1878. Mock-turtle Soup, Chicken Soup. Trout, with Butter and Potatoes, Turbot, Sauce Hollandaise. Venison, with Mushrooms, Tenderloin, with Sauce a 1'Empereur. Sweetbread, with Truffles, Lobsters, with Sauce a la Tartare. New Sauerkraut, with Part- ridges. Ham, boiled in Burgundy. Artichokes, with smoked Salmon. French Poultry, Salad, and different preserved Fruits. Sherry, Madeira. Rhinegold. Markgrafler, Affenthaler. Liebfrauenmtlk, St. Julien. Weihenstephan Beer. Johannisberger Cabinet, Chateau Larose. Louis Rosderer, carte blanche. Plum Pudding, with Vanilla Sauce, Maraschino Gelee, with preserved Fruits. Ice-cream. Fruits. Dessert. SOME SAMPLE MENUS. 99 COLOGNE, SEPTEMBER 28, 1878. UNVEILING OF THE ROYAL MONUMENT. Salad of Crawfish. j> Chicken Soup, ) Mock-turtle Soup. ) Fine Ragout in shells, ) Turbot, with Mushrooms. ) Ham in Madeira, Sauerkraut, with Partridges, Green Peas, with Salmon and Tongue, Sweetbread-Fricassee, with Morels a la Bruxelles. Venison, with canned Fruits, "1 French Capons, with Salad, Lobsters, Strasbourg Goose-liver Pastry. J Ice-cream, 1 * Cakes, French Grapes, Ananas. i ^ N Old Sherry. 1870 Pisporter. 1874 Solberg, Marquis de Therme. 1874 Erdener Treppchen Auslese, 1874 Walporzheimer Domlay, 1865 Grand Vin Chateau Margaux. 1868 Schloss Vollradser, 1868 Steinberger Cabinet, 1862 Johannisberger. Heidsieck Monopol, Jules Mumm, carte rose, Rcederer, carte blanche, Giesler Goldlack, Mocha Coffee. 100 SOME SAMPLE MENUS. TENDERED TO BISHOP LOUGHLIN T B H Y E PRIESTS OF HIS DIOCESE, OCTOBER 18, 189O. Huitres en Coquilles. Sauterne. SOUPES. Consomme aux Quenelles, Tortue Verte a 1'Anglaise. Amontillado. HORS D'CEUVRES. Coquilles St. Jacques, Saucisson de Lyon, Sardines, Celeri, Radis, Olives. POISSONS. Saumon, Sauce Hollandaise, Concombres, Pommes Quelins. Mtdoc. RELEVES. Dinde Braisee a la Regence, Haricots Verts Frangais. ENTREES. Filet de Bceuf a la Richelieu, Petits Pois Nature, Riz de Veau en Caisses Bearnaises, Asperges en Branches. St. Julien. SORBET. Punch Remain. ROTI. Squabs de Philadelphie, Chicorie et Laitue. Pomard. ENTREMETS SUCRE'S. Pudding de Cabinet, Gateaux Assortis Mendiants, Glaces de Fantaisie. Heidsieck Sec. , G. H. Mumms E. D. DESSERT. Fruits de Saison, Fromages, Cafe Noir, Cigares. SOME SAMPLE MENUS. IOI <1 BANQUETS TENDERED TO Rt. Rev. JOHN LOUGHLIN, D.D., Bishop of Brooklyn, BY THE LAITY ON THE OCCASION OF HIS GOIvDKINt JUBILKK, OCTOBER 20, 1S90. Huitres en Coquilles. Haut Sauternes. SOUPES. Imperial. Consomme aux Quenelles, Tortue Verte. HORS D'CEUVRES. Varies, Bouchees Duchesses. POISSONS. Rudesheimer. Filet de Sole Farci au Vin Blanc, Saumon, Sauce Genevoise, Salade de Concombres. RELEVES. Chdteau Laroce. Selle de Venaison, Gelee de Groseille, Filet de Bceuf, aux Champignons Nouveaux, Pommes Duchesses, Petits Pois a la Frangaise. ENTREES. Moet et Ckandon, Terrapene a la Maryland, Brut Imperial. Timbales Mathilde. Perrier Jouet E. D., Special. LEGUMES. Asperges, Sauce Hollandaise. PUNCH. Cigarettes. Loughlin. ROTIS. Chambertin. Perdreaux sur Canape, Becassines au Cresson, Salade de Chicoree. ENTREMETS SUCRES. Pommery Dry. Savarins a 1'Imperatrice. G. H. Mumm E. D. DESSERT. Glaces en Surprises, Fruits Glaces, Gateaux, Petits Fours, Cosaques, Bonbons, Fruits de Saison. FROMAGES. Cafe Noir, Apollinaris, Cigars, Lemon Soda, Ginger Ale, Liqueurs. 102 SOME SAMPLE MENUS. HAIL AND FAREWELL BANQUET TENDERED TO THE INCOMING AND OUTGOING JUSTICES OF THE CITY COURT OK NEW YORK. The Hon. FITZSIMMONS, The Hon. NEWBERGER, The Hon. McADAM, The Hon. GIEGERICH, By ttieir Associates. HUITRES. Chablis. POTAGES. Amontillado. Consomme Adelina, Tortue Verte Claire. HORS D'CEUVRE. Pontet Canet. Timbales a la Talleyrand. POISSON. Liebfraiimikh. Aiguillettes de Bass, Dieppoise, Pommes de terre Anglaises, Concombres. RELEVES. G. H. Mumms. Selle d'Antilope a la Grainville, Asperges. ENTREES. G. H. Mumms. Filet de Poulet a la Lucullus, Petits Pois Parisiennes, Terrapene a la Maryland, Sorbet Tosca. Cigarettes. ROTIS. Chambertin. Canvasback Duck, Salade de Laitue. ENTREMETS SUCRE'S. Pommery Dry. Poires a la Richelieu. FROMAGES. G. H. Mumms. Glaces Fantaisie, Fruits, Petits Fours, Cafe, Liqueurs. LUNDI, LE 22 DECEMBRE, 1890. DELMONICO'S. SOME SAMPLE MENUS. 103 ANNUAL, BANQUKT, New York Board of Trade and Transportation, DELMONICO'S, THURSDAY, JAN. 29, 1891. HUITRES. Haut Sauternes. POTAGES. Amontillado. Consomme Dubelloy, Bisque de Crevettes. HORS D'CEUVRE. Batailley. Timbales Ecarlatte. POISSON. Marcobnmner. Saumon de 1'Oregon, Hollandaise Vert Pie, Pommes de Terre Duchesses. RELEVE. Vve. Clicquot. Filet de Boeuf aux Olives Farcies, Choux Fleurs au Gratin. ENTREES. G. H. Mumm's. Poularde a la Chevreuse, Petits Pois a 1'Anglaise, Caisses de Ris de Veau Gram mo nt, Haricots Panaches. SORBET IMPERIAL. ROTI. Chambertm. Canards a Tete Rouge (Froid), Terrine de Foies Gras a la Gelee, Salade de Laitue. ENTREMET DE DOUCEUR. Perrier Jouet. Pouding Favorite, Pieces Montees, Glaces Fantaisie, Fruits, Petits Fours, Cafe. At this banquet the Hon. WILLIAM WINDOM, Secretary of the Treasury, died. 3ntr0toicti0tt to Miub Stinks: Containing joints to ttye professional Barkeeper anb General liemarks to H)t Introbuctton to Jtti*e& H3rink0, To those who do not find the following useful in its details for their own use, I express my congratula- tions and esteem as a business associate. To those who do find it a guide I wish to express my assur- ance that they will find this work an absolutely and indispensably correct one to work by, provided they understand and practice it. You may travel all over the country, and you will find my practice a good one. In discharging your duties you will find many little hints you will not be able to practice for not having the facilities to do so, but I may say I have at least shown you how it ought to be made and executed. It must be left to your own judgment to follow the directions given herein the best way you know of, and leave out what ought to be left out, because your position does not offer you the oppor- tunity. I have mentioned in this work everything that is necessary for a theoretical experience. It should be borne in mind: Not everybody can advance so as to be- come an artist in tending bar, but we all should learn, and try to improve by all means that are offered. I am far from believing it possible to become a practical man by simply studying this book, but while doing so, you will get an essential and true idea of how to become a 107 IO8 INTRODUCTION TO MIXED DRINKS. valuable man in this line of business. Every man can educate himself and acquire all the knowledge neces- sary for tending bar, provided he takes enough interest and wants to make it a business. Practical knowledge cannot be acquired except by actual work and experi- ence. An inexpert cook never will become an artist nor a chef de cuisine by simply reading a book on cookery, no matter by whom or how intelligently written, and no man can ever become an artist behind the bar by simply looking into this book or possessing it. A great deal of ingenuity and taste is required on the part of a chef'm an important position, and the same is required on the part of a man in the capacity of a bartender. He, having a position of responsibility, must be a man of original ideas, a man who is proud of his work and who tries to discharge his duties with credit to himself, his employer, and the guest he waits on. Originality is the key to success. Therefore, always try to work accordingly; make a change in the old system, if you see it needs improvement; introduce it to your guests instead of being taught by them what to do. A bar- tender ought to be leading and not to be led. An actor must understand for himself how to amuse his audience and how to gain a reputation: he never would succeed by simply following another man's guidance. The situation of a barkeeper gives the holder the chance of studying human nature. A man fit for the position, and consequently a keen observer for one HINTS AND GENERAL REMARKS. 109 thing cannot be separated from the other will be able to tell a man's character very soon, as far as conduct, education, language, and general savoir-vivre are con- cerned. Such a situation is a better teacher of human nature than any book howsoever, and by whomsoever it may be written. " Tell me what you drink and I will tell you who you are." The tastes and habits of your different customers appear to you so plain, that you have to take an interest in this study of human nature. As a general rule you will find that only a little part of drinking is done by one individual. A gentleman either brings his company with him or he expects to find it in the barroom. It is in drinking as it is in eat- ing: very few want to enjoy their drinks by themselves. As to my individual belief, all men are born equal, with a heart full of honesty; I cannot believe any one might think otherwise. If any one grows up to become different, it is the fault of his surroundings or his own carelessness. How any one can lie without knowing what he does it for, I cannot comprehend. Thus with me ! Many a time I have been asked concerning mixed drinks: What do you think of them in regard to their effect and result to the stomach ? Many a time I have heard the complaint, mixed drinks make a person sick; consequently we do not believe in them; we think them to be bad and a failure. Patience, my dear patrons ! Most cheerfully I give the following answer: Drinking is a luxury, water and milk excepted, and any man will IIO INTRODUCTION TO MIXED DRINKS. admit this fact who is not a slave to drinking. First of all, if you make a mixed drink, your honesty must force you to use pure articles only. Suppose you need for your drink three or four ingredients; take every article genuine but one, and you will spoil the entire drink by the one that is not genuine. Therefore, order mixed drinks only in reliable places. Secondly : Never order a mixed drink when you are in a hurry; you can get a well-mixed drink only when you devote the time absolutely necessary to pre- pare it. Thirdly: The mixer ought to be careful not to use too much of one ingredient and too little of another. Do not get too much water in your drink when you prepare drinks with ice; find the suitable temperature, not too warm nor too cold; chiefly, however, be careful in your measurements, and compare a plain drink in its size with your mixed one. Mixing drinks might be compared to music; an or- chestra will produce good music, provided all players are artists; but have only one or two inferior musicians in your band, and you may be convinced they will spoil the entire harmony. A man who is a slave to drinking will always prefer something strong, even if less palatable, and the effect is generally harmful to his brain; whereas the man who believes in mixed drinks may hurt his stomach, in case he drinks too much; but even this too much will never reach the quantity of the former. HINTS AND GENERAL REMARKS. Ill It must be borne in mind: Drinking is an art, and it requires practice to know how to drink, what to drink, and when to drink. Drinking is like eating. Who but a cannibal would not prefer his viands prepared in a palatable form ? That fancy cooking is not injurious, we have full proof of; we know of aged people of the past and of the present who spent a little fortune in having their dishes made to suit their taste. As good eating depends on the cook, so good drinking on the expert barkeeper. A distinguished Englishman, Mr. T., one day told me: " We do not have much mixed drinks in our coun- try." Whereupon I asked him: " Why do your coun- trymen mix ale with porter, or Bass ale with ginger ale ? " " Well, it makes the drink more pleasant to the taste." I needed no more answer. A man gets tired of good company, of good friends, or even of his best girl why should we wonder at see- ing him getting tired of mixed drinks ? I cannot help stating the fact that our drinking capacity is increas- ing, compared with former times. Not everybody is capable of criticising and appreciating a good drink, more so a mixed one. Never smoke when you want to enjoy a fine drink, nor chew; never drink anything mixed when you do not feel well. For medical pur- poses, plain drinks are preferable. When I began my business as bartender, I was only a boy and hardly able to keep up with the demands of my employer; I remembered this often enough after- 112 INTRODUCTION TO MIXED DRINKS. wards; yet the imagination on my part was at that time like that of the rest of boys of the same age. But with the advance in age, this imagination faded, for it had to; and now I began to learn. A period of a few years passed and I began to believe I knew something; undoubtedly I did, but how little ! and every day con- vinces me more and more how much there is to be learned, although I have given particular care to this business close on to thirty years. How often a man will overestimate himself, because he happens to be successful, as well as another one will undervalue his dexterity because good luck did not favor him. Perhaps you think I was born with a fortune waiting for me; I was, but I was not to keep it, and only my misfortune in younger years is the cause, and has ever since been, that made me work hard and seek new ideas. There is no more reason for a well-off man to give up his ambition than there is for another, who did not meet with success, to despair. Surely it is a nice, pleasant feeling for any one to be born rich; but to be born with a silver spoon in the mouth and to die with a fortune behind you, without having shown that you accomplished something of value through your daily toils and labors no ! I would rather be a dog than a man without ambition and a record of toil. My dear readers ! Never was I guilty of not enjoy- ing myself at every opportunity after business hours, and I never will let the time pass by without doing so hereafter. It is a pleasure to me to enjoy the labor, HINTS AND GENERAL REMARKS. 113 the skill and the talent of others, and I know how to value and appreciate it, but still my greatest pleasure is to amuse others; and you will find, " True happiness is gained by making others happy." Often have I done extra work to amuse my friends, for the pleasure I felt was ample reward. I would mention right here some of my little extra doings, different from the usual way. When you are not pushed for time, while you are making mixed drinks, cool your glasses with ice before you serve your drink; in serving a strained drink, you begin with serving a glass of ice-water; then fill your glass, into which you are to strain your drink, with ice. You may place your glasses together in the form of a pyramid and ornament your structure with fruits and flowers. Now begin to prepare your drink. By following these hints you will accomplish several purposes : Firstly, you will please the eye of your customer; secondly, you will have thoroughly cooled glasses; thirdly, you will not need to wipe your glasses dry, etc. On a hot summer day you will find such little extras to a great advantage to the business practically, i. e., financially. A drink well served is worth two that lack in presentation. When a drink is made with ice and then strained, there should be nothing left in the glass but the liquid; the fruit would hinder you in drinking, it would touch the mustache; if you want to eat it you cannot get it out, and the fruit has lost its natural aroma; fruit ought, 114 INTRODUCTION TO MIXED DRINKS. consequently, to be presented separately, if it is desired on your guest's part. Very different it is when you have a drink in which the ice is to remain; in this case use plenty of fruits, as it is pleasing to the eye and allows your guest to eat it if he likes. Reasons Why Men Drink. MEN drink to quench thirst, on account of a drink's effect, to get an appetite, to promote digestion, to en- joy its taste, for curiosity, from habit, because of dis- couragement, on account of ambition, to forget poverty, to show their riches, because of sickness, because they do not feel well, for the purpose of learning, to dispel sorrow. This one wants to warm himself; that one is overheated and wants to get cool; one has lost in Wall Street; another's shares have gone up; one man's best girl went back on him; another is going to marry the best girl in town; one drinks behind the door, another in a public place. Some men will drink out of pure style; they want to show their diamonds and jewelry, their costly clothes, and mainly their money. But most men will drink because it is " business." I remember a cir- cumstance that occurred between a diamond broker of Maiden Lane and myself. One fine morning a custo- mer entered his store to buy goods, but the broker did not succeed in selling, when all at once the idea struck him, " A nice drink might bring him to terms." He in- vited his customer and up they came to the bar. With HINTS AND GENERAL REMARKS. 115 a twinkle in his eye he ordered " Two of those famous Sans Soucis." I went to work and built up the glasses, a 1'Eiffel tower, with all the necessary fruits and flowers, and after having received a pleasant compliment from my guest, I saw them going down to the store once more. As I was afterwards informed, the broker sold his customer $10,000 worth of goods with ease. Haw to Start. CLEAN the top of your counter first, remove all uten- sils from under the counter and place them on the top; clean your bench. Before beginning with your glass- ware, add a little salt to the water as it will help in polishing your glasses. Fill all your liquor bottles, pack your working boxes with fine ice, cut up the fruit for immediate use, clean your silverware. Fill your ice-boxes with ice. Afterward clean your back bar. As an appropriate suit behind the bar I would men- tion the following: a pair of black trousers, a long, white apron, a white shirt, a white collar, a black tie, a white vest, and a white coat; care should be taken to have the suit fit well; have the sleeves of your coat cut, that you may button it tight; this will prevent its getting soiled and worn out; never have your suit starched. Glassware. IN selecting your glassware, choose perfectly white color, also for your bottles, as they look much more in- Il6 INTRODUCTION TO MIXED DRINKS. viting. To keep them clean, use egg-shells, salt, paper, or chopped ice. It should be remembered that shot is very poisonous and scratches the glass. Soda ought also to be avoided. Use only plain but good glass- ware, it being the best. Fruits. Lemons. Lemons intended for squeezing should be peeled before using. The juice ought not to be older than a day. It must be strained thoroughly. Lime- juice may be mixed with lemon-juice; the mixture is cheaper and better. The fresh lemon-peel is very useful for flavoring and decorating the drinks. Oranges. A medium size of dark-colored ones is the best for squeezing, as well as cutting up. Use from six to twelve oranges, according to the demand of the business; peel them and take them apart carefully; place them in a punch-bowl, add some fine sugar, pour either Rhine wine, sherry wine or brandy over it; let it stand in a cold place from three to six hours, and serve a piece to your customer after the drink, and you will find it will be appreciated. The Delicious Pineapple. Pineapple may be used in the same way as oranges, the juice or syrup being al- most indispensable. Choice Grapes. To make a drink of inviting appear- ance choice grapes are necessary, for decorating as well as simply presenting. In addition to these fruits, a few others ought to be HINTS AND GENERAL REMARKS. kept on hand: Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and cherries. They may be prepared the same way as the other fruits. Never handle fruits with your ringers, but use a fancy fruit-fork. Canned Fruits. AT a time when there are no fresh fruits to be had, canned goods may be taken instead of them. The juice or the syrup of them lends a very aromatic flavor to drinks such as cobblers, punches, sours, fizzes and lemonades. You also may present a little of these fruits to your customers. To persons who drink strong liquors, the use of fruits is of a much greater advantage than lunch. The proper way of serving such little relishes is to put them in a separate little glass, or present on a fork or a toothpick. Further Instructions. NEVER allow yourself to be idle behind the bar; be ready to serve at once when a customer enters. When a drink is ordered that requires water, fill your glass with fine ice, and pour over it water out of a pitcher in full view of your guest. This rule must necessarily be carried out in performing every one of your duties. A bottle never must be more than half empty. For strong drinks, always serve two glasses one for the drink, the other for the water. Serve sherry and port wine Il8 INTRODUCTION TO MIXED DRINKS. in their respective glasses only; never doit in whiskey tumblers. For shaking drinks with the shaker, use only a mix- ing-tumbler; by using goblets you will soil your clothes, and the goblets might break. Shake your drink well; without that you never will get a first-class drink. This has special reference to such drinks as fizzes, milk punches, egg-noggs, frappes, and similar drinks, con- taining sugar. Good mixing is a hard work; but with- out good mixing you spoil the best liquor. In serving your guest, be pleasant, but quiet. Never commence to converse, only answer questions. Never listen to conversation held between your guests, nor hold any conversation behind the bar with your co- workers. In receiving money, avoid mistakes; in re- turning change, be careful. Observe who orders drinks, and, if you give a check, hand it to the right person; mistakes in this respect will often lead to disputes. Treat every one respectfully, but do not lose your dig- nity in the proper place. You can do this only by using good and selected language, and be conservative in your actions. As we mention syrup or gum so often, we think it a necessity to call your attention to the way of making and using it. Take an enameled pot, of about half a gallon; put in this one and a half quarts of water and two pounds of loaf-sugar; let this boil over a slow fire; stir now and then, and skim well; if too thick, add a little boiling HINTS AND GENERAL REMARKS. IIQ water, and strain into a bottle. It ought to be kept in a cold place. Do not prepare too large quantities, as it is best to have it fresh. Rock - candy gum is prepared in the same way. Cocktail gum should be absolutely white. ?Drittk0: Containing Sour0, (ftimpevance !Brink0, 0cktaU0, Cobblers, |htttcl)e0 (for % bar u0e), f i^e0, JDtt)er0e. NOTE. Whenever in any recipe you find l /$, or %, or l /e, etc., it means }/$, etc., of the final drink. A dash being no definite measure, I must leave it to the mixer 1 s good judgment to suit his customers' taste. 1. 3ack frost tUI)i0kg Sour. Into a mixing-glass squeeze the juice of half a lemon, i barspoonful of sugar, i fresh egg, i pony of fresh cream, i drink of apple whiskey. Fill your glass with cracked ice and shake thoroughly; strain into a high, thin glass, and fill the balance with imported seltzer. 2. Sour d la dreole. The juice of a large lime in a large glass, a barspoonful of fine sugar, a dash of seltzer; mix this well; l /t drink of Santa Cruz rum, Yz drink of Jamaica rum. Mix this well, fill your glass with fine ice, ornament with fruits in season, put a little ice-cream on top, and serve. 3. tDljiaktg Sotir d la Owillaume. A large glass with fine ice, the juice of half a lemon, 3 dashes of gum, a drink of whiskey, 2 spoonfuls of cream. Shake this, strain, and serve. 123 124 MIXED DRINKS. 4. $!) ^Delicious Sour. A goblet with the juice of a lime, a squirt of seltzer, a spoonful of sugar, l /z of apple-jack, l /z of peach brandy, the white of an egg. Fill your glass with ice, shake well, strain, and serve. 5. Oriental Branbn Sour. Into a mixing-glass squeeze the juice of half a lemon, a barspoonful of sugar, the juice of half an orange, the white of an egg, a drink of peach brandy. Fill the glass with cracked ice, shake to the freezing-point, strain into a fancy glass, and serve. 6. tU!)t0keg Sour. A goblet with the juice of half a lemon or lime in the bottom, a squirt of seltzer, a little sugar; mix this; % full of ice, a drink of whiskey; mix this well. Strain, and serve. 7. It is made as a whiskey sour; only put a dash of some cordial on top, such as chartreuse or Curasao. MIXED DRINKS. 12$ 8. 3lb0intl)e Cocktail. A goblet of shaved ice, 2 dashes of maraschino, i dash of bitters (orange), i dash of anisette, i pony of absinthe. Stir very well, strain into a cocktail glass, and serve. 9. in Cocktail. A goblet filled with fine ice, 2 dashes of gum, i dash of absinthe, 1 drink of Holland gin, 2 dashes of orange bitters. (i dash of green chartreuse may be added.) Stir this well, strain, and serve. 22. jjollanb's flrib*. A mixing glass % full of ice, 3 dashes of gum. 2 dashes of bitters, 1 dash of absinthe, % of Holland gin, YI of vino vermouth. Stir well, strain, and serve. 23. fttanljattan Cocktail Half a tumblerful of cracked ice, 2 dashes of gum, 2 dashes of bitters, i dash of absinthe, % drink of whiskey, Y$ drink of vino vermouth. (A little maraschino may be added.) Stir this well, strain, and serve. MIXED DRINKS. I2Q 24. Imperial pal. A mixing-glass % filled with fine ice, i pony of absinthe, i dash of anisette, 1 dash of chartreuse (yellow). Shake this to the freezing-point; strain into a cocktail glass; drop a little creme de roses in the centre, and serve 25. ai)e pal. A goblet with ice, 2 dashes of gum, i pony of absinthe, i dash of maraschino. Stir well, strain into a cocktail glass; pour a little creme de menthe in the centre, which will go to the bottom, and serve. 26. l)e IJtmroer. A large glass % full of fine ice, i dash of bitters, 1 dash of absinthe, ^j of vino vermouth, }/(, of anisette, l /6 of curagao. Mix well, strain into a fancy glass, and present. 27. Solra Cocktail. A large glass with a spoonful of sugar, squeeze a little oil of the peel of a lemon on it, a little fine ice, 2 dashes of bitters. Pour in a bottle of plain soda slowly with your left hand, while you stir it with your right hand, and present; strain if de- sired. 9 130 MIXED DRINKS. 28. om in Cocktail A goblet filled with ice, 2 small dashes of gum, i dash of absinthe, 1 drink of Old Tom gin, 2 dashes of orange bitters. (A dash of green chartreuse may be added.) Stir well, strain, and serve. 29. Club Cocktail. Half a glassful of ice, 2 dashes of gum, % of Old Tom gin, YS of vino vermouth, 2 dashes of orange bitters, i dash of green chartreuse. Stir well, strain, and serve. 30. farmontl) Cocktail. A glass with some fine ice, 1 dash of bitters, 2 dashes of maraschino, i dash of absinthe, i drink of vino vermouth. Stir to the freezing-point, and strain into a cocktail glass. 3L !)e tiheper's log. A goblet % full of fine ice, 3 dashes of gum, Yz pony of absinthe, % pony of vino vermouth, Yz pony of kiimmel, i dash of Curasao. Stir very well, and strain into a cocktail glass. MIXED DRINKS. 131 32. tDtiske Cocktail. Half a glassful of fine ice, squeeze a little lemon-peel over it, 3 dashes of gum, 2 dashes of bitters, i dash of absinthe, i drink of whiskey. Stir this well, strain and serve. 33. got tipple Sottrji. A lump of sugar dissolved in half a glass of boiling water, a drink of apple whiskey. Add a piece of a roasted apple, if you wish, and serve with a little nutmeg. 34. got Btef-Sea. Break an egg in the bottom of a cup; beat it well; a drink of sherry, a spoonful of beef-tea. Fill the balance with boiling water; stir well, season to taste, and serve. 35. got Benefactor. A hot punch-glass with 2 or 3 lumps of sugar, Yz glass of boiling water to dissolve, % of Chianti, l /s of Jamaica rum, i slice of lemon. Grate a little nutmeg on top, and serve. 36. aije ttr Btgle of Hue Blazer. The same as a hot Scotch, only take a hot silver mug, pour in your hot Scotch and light it; leave it burning for about 2 minutes, while you pour it into another hot mug, and vice versa; then serve. 132 MIXED DRINKS. 37. got Branbg. A hot glass with 2 lumps of sugar, well dissolved in ^ glass of boiling water, % of brandy, ^3 of Burgundy. Mix this well, and add a slice of orange. 38. gong Kong JJtmcl). The juice of a lime, and 3 dashes of pineapple-juice in the bottom of a hot, thin glass, a spoonful of sugar, a cup of strong boiling tea, a drink of Jamaica rum, 2 dashes of brandy, a piece of sliced lemon. If not hot enough add a little hot water. (You may add a dash of maraschino.) 39. Catt be Bottle. (FOR THE SICK.) Break the yolks of 2 fresh eggs in the bottom of a glass, beat this up well with a spoonful of sugar, and 3 spoonfuls of orange- flower extract, until the eggs begin to look white; while you stir with one hand, add a glass of hot water, a pony of brandy, and stir well before serving. 40. got Italian Cemonabe. The juice of half a lemon and of half an orange, a large spoonful of sugar. Fill your glass nearly up with boiling water; add a little Chianti; stir, and serve with a little nutmeg on top. MIXED DRINKS. 133 41. Catries' jot Jtenclj. A hot glass half full of boiling water, with 2 lumps of sugar well dissolved, YZ drink of sherry wine, YZ drink of port wine; mix this well; i slice of orange, and a little nutmeg on the top. 42. $0t range Cemonatre, twtl) In a large wineglass squeeze the juice of a lime, and the juice of an orange, a large spoonful of sugar; dissolve this well; i pony of brandy; mix well. While you stir with one hand, fill your glass with boiling milk slowly. 43. $ot lei tlHne Jhmcl). A large, hot glass with the juice of half a lemon in the bottom, 3 lumps of sugar, Y* glass of boiling water; dissolve this well; a glass of claret, a dash of Jamaica rum. Mix this thoroughly; add a slice of an orange, and a little cinnamon. 44. jot 0ortd). A hot glass half full of boiling water, a lump or two of sugar; dissolve well; a drink of Scotch whiskey; mix this. If desired, -a little lemon-peel, and a little nutmeg. 134 MIXED DRINKS. 45. 21 Sure Belief. A punch-glass half full of boiling water, 2 lumps of sugar; dissolve well; i pony of peppermint, i dash of Jamaica ginger, i pony of brandy, I dash of raspberry syrup, the peel of a little lemon, and serve. 46. Black Host. A hot glass with 2 lumps of sugar, 3 or 4 cloves, a piece of cinnamon, Y* glass of boiling water; mix well. Fill your glass with Assmannshauser, and add a piece of orange. 47. Srotcf) Delight. A hot glass with 2 lumps of sugar, l / 2 glass of boiling water; dissolve well; Yz of Scotch whiskey, Yt of Irish whiskey, i dash of claret. Mix well, and add a little lemon-peel. 48. Jancg $at Styerrg. A hot glass half full of boiling water, 2 small lumps of sugar; dissolve well; a drink of sherry, a dash of port wine, YZ slice of lemon, a little cinnamon on the top. MIXED DRINKS. 135 49. 6u)eM0l) |)uncl). A hot glass half filled with boiling water; add to this enough Swedish punch essence to make it palatable; add a little nut- meg if desired. 50. $ot Spiccb Hum. A hot, thin glass half filled with boiling water, 1 or 2 lumps of sugar; dissolve this well; a drink of Jamaica rum, a dash of claret, a small piece of butter, a roasted cracker, 2 or 3 cloves, and serve. 51. 13a0e-Ball Cemouak. A fresh egg in the bottom of a glass, the juice of a lemon, a spoonful of sugar, a little fine ice, l / z of water, % of milk. Shake this very well, and serve. 52. Bat)arot0e a Tau. A large bar-glass, l /2, full of capillaire syrup, i barspoonful of orange-flower water. Fill the glass with boiling water or tea, squeeze the oil of a little lemon-peel on the top. 53. Bat)arm0 JHmcahte. Put i barspoonful of pulverized sugar and the yolk of an egg in a large glass; stir it well with a spoon, i pony of old Jamaica rum. Fill the balance with boiling milk while stirring. 136 MIXED DRINKS. 54. Italian Cemonato. The juice of half a peeled lemon and orange, a large spoonful of fine sugar, the glass full of ice. Fill your glass with water, shake this well, add a little dash of Chianti; ornament with fruits and ice-cream. 55. Haapberrn Cemonafoe, uritl) lUine. The juice of a lime or a lemon, a spoonful of sugar, the juice of i dozen raspberries. Fill your glass with ice, add a glass of sherry or port wine, fill your glass up with water, shake well, ornament with fruits and ice-cream, and serve with a straw. 56. Sofia Ccmonabe. The juice of y z lemon, 1 spoonful of sugar, dissolve well in a large glass, 2 or 3 lumps of ice. Pour in your plain soda with the left hand while you stir with the right, and serve. 57. Setter Cemonalre. It is made the same way, only use Seltzer instead of soda. 58. Straroborn} Cemonate. The juice of a lemon, i spoonful of sugar in a large glass. the juice of i dozen strawberries. Fill your glass one-third full of ice and the balance with milk; shake this very well and strain into a long, thin glass. MIXED DRINKS. 137 59. l)iolct Cemoiwbe. Mix a tablespoonful of violet syrup and a spoonful of sugar with the juice of >^ lemon in a glass of water (cold); this is a very pleasant drink, especially adapted against headache and nervous diseases. 60. In a large glass the juice of half a lemon, a spoonful of pineapple syrup, a spoonful of sugar, 3 dashes of creme de violet. Fill your glass with ice, shake well, ornament with ice-cream and berries, and serve with a straw. 61. Cemonabe Jlarfait. Put the rind of twelve peeled lemons in three quarts of boil- ing water; press their juice, after cooling, into the fluid; add one and a half pounds of pulverized sugar, three-fourths of a quart of Rhine wine and i pint of boiled milk; stir well and strain through canton flannel. 62. Apricot Sljerbrt. From three pounds of ripe apricots select the largest ones, put the smaller ones with three gills of water in a stone pot, let boil until the pits fall out, strain the juice through canton flannel and squeeze the fruits well; boil the juice with one pound of sugar to a thick syrup; boil the larger ones soft in one and a half quarts of water until they burst. Take them out and remove the pits. Strain the water, in which they were boiled, into a bowl, add the syrup, put the fruit in, cut in two, with some lumps of ice, and season with almond essence. 138 MIXED DRINKS. 63. Baiwroiac au Cljocolat Put in a vessel partly filled with boiling water a pot with one quart of milk; break five ounces of vanilla chocolate and drop it into the milk; stir continually, but never let the milk boil; hand out the glasses, put in every one a tablespoon ful of sugar syrup and fill in the chocolate concoction; serve it hot 64. Boo0eberrg Ccmonabe. To one quart of water add one pint of gooseberry-juice, and one pound of pulverized sugar. 75. Ice Cemonato. Well-prepared orange or raspberry lemonade is filled into a bottle; dig this into cracked ice, and serve after three-quarters of an hour, when little lumps of ice are forming in the lemonade. 76. Imperial. Place in a large, well-warmed pot, one ounce of cremor tar- tari, the rind of three very thinly peeled lemons, one and a half pounds of sugar; pour over it two and a half quarts of boiling water, cover the pot well, and let it stand an hour in a temper- ate place; stir now and then; put it on ice, and decant it very carefully. MIXED DRINKS. 141 77. Bmletr Cemonaire. Put the rind of two thinly peeled lemons in a tea-pot; then remove the white skin of the fruit, cut them into very thin slices, remove the seeds; put the slices likewise in the pot, and add one pint of boiling water; cover the pot well and let it soak for about ten minutes; drink it hot after sweetening with sugar to taste. (This lemonade can be very warmly recommended in cases of cold, before going to bed.) 78. Cemcmak Half an ounce of carbonate of magnesia is ground in one pint of water; fill the milky fluid into a glass bottle, add half an ounce of crystallized citric acid, and close the bottle air-tight. After twelve hours filter the fluid into another bottle, in which you first place one-fourth ounce of citric acid and two ounces of sugar syrup; fill the bottle up with fresh water; cork well; fasten the cork with twine, and shake in order to mix the syrup with the water, and to dissolve the citric acid, which then sets free the carbonic acid in the carbonate of magnesia; which acid makes the lemonade sparkle. 79. range Cemonafte. Take one quart of cold water, the juice of three oranges; rub the peel of them slightly on sugar, add a glass of Rhine wine, and sweeten at your discretion. SO. range Sherbet. Six ripe, sweet oranges are peeled ; four of them cut in pieces and freed from their white skin and seeds, the other two well squeezed. Stir this with one-fourth pound of sugar over a slow fire to boiling; let it get cool, thin with fresh water, and add the orange pieces, some drops of orange-flower essence, and a few lumps of ice. 142 MIXED DRINKS. 81. Surkisl) range Sorbet. Peel five or six sweet oranges very carefully, divide them into pieces, cut each piece again in two, remove the seeds and the thin skin; put all in a tureen, then place one-fourth pound of powdered sugar and the juice of two oranges in an enameled pot; stir over a slow fire until it begins to boil; take it from the fire, let it get cool, pour it into the tureen, add one quart of cold water, a few drops of orange-flower essence, a few lumps of ice, stir well and serve. 82. $ear Sherbet. One or two pounds of dried pears are washed, cut in quarters, freed from seeds and pips, infused in one and a half quarts of boiling water in a well-covered tureen over night; the following day add some sugar, stick cinnamon and lemon-peel; boil until the pears are soft, take them out, strain after cooling, add the pears and some lumps of ice, and serve. (In the same way it may be prepared from fresh pears.) 83. JJerman Stjevbtt. One pound of ripe, fresh strawberries are mashed in a tureen with a wooden spoon; add a lemon cut in pieces without the seeds, and ateaspoonful of orange-flower water; pour over it one and a fourth quarts of fresh water, let it stand covered three hours. Strain through canton flannel, press the fruit hard to make them yield as much juice as possible, add one pound of lump- sugar, stir until the sugar is dissolved, put on ice, and serve. 84. IJomcgranate Sljerbet. A few ripe pomegranates are cut in pieces; leave some aside, press the rest through a cloth and boil the juice with the same quantity of water and one-fourth pound of sugar, while continually stirring; boil it to a thick syrup. After it is cool pour it into a tureen, add some fresh water, a few drops of orange-flower water, a few lumps of ice and the fruits you left aside. MIXED DRINKS. 143 85. Surki0I) liaiain Boil one pound of fine raisins slowly in one pint of water, until they look like the fresh fruit; filter the fluid, and boil this with one-half pound of sugar to a thick syrup; skim well; let it get cool; pour into a glass bowl; diminish too great a sweetness by adding cold water; put the boiled raisins in, a few drops of orange-flower extract, a few lumps of ice, and serve the sherbet in glasses. 86. Haspbm*2 Cemonabe. Press any quantity of fresh raspberries; add to one quart of juice two quarts of fresh water, the juice of a lemon, and half a pound of powdered sugar; strain, and serve in glasses; or you may bottle it, to keep it for a short while. 87. Rljtibarb Sherbet. Boil as much cut rhubarb as is required for filling half a pint in one quart of water with four ounces of sugar, on which the rind of a small lemon has been rubbed off, for half an hour; strain the water, let the sherbet get cold, add some lumps of ice, and serve this very refreshing drink in glasses. 88. Ho0-r Cemoncrtre. Very ripe rose-hips are gathered in the latter part of fall, after the first frost; remove the pits, and let the hips dry in the open air in the sun; for each pint of the dried fruit take two quarts of water; boil both together for half an hour; filter through canton flannel, sweeten to taste with sugar, and serve. 89. lUine Cemonatoe. Rub the rind of one and a half lemons on one and a half pounds of loaf-sugar; put it in one quart of cold water and one quart of Rhine wine; add the juice of three lemons; mix well, if desired, with some cracked ice, and serve. 144 MIXED DRINKS. 00. tUtne Sherbet. Very ripe raspberries, strawberries, cherries, apricots or peaches, are mashed and infused with water for a few hours; press through a clean cloth; mix the juice with two bottles of white wine, the juice of two lemons, and sugar to taste ; place it on ice; after cooling, serve. 91. Cataroba Cobbler. A large, long glass, a squirt of Seltzer, a barspoonful of sugar; mix this well; a wineglassful of Catawba wine; mix this; fill your glass with shaved ice to the top, i dash of port wine. Ornament with fruits in season. If you like, put a spoonful of ice-cream on the top, to make it attractive; serve with a straw and a spoon. 92. Champagne Cobbler. A delicate wineglass, a small lump of sugar, fill your glass with shaved ice, fill the intervals with champagne. Stir this in a slow manner; add a little vanilla or strawberry ice-cream, with a nice berry in season, and serve with a straw and a spoon. You may add a little maraschino. 93. Sljerrg Cobbler. A fine, large glass, a spoonful of sugar, i dash of mineral water; mix this; a glass of sherry wine; mix this; fill your glass with fine ice, a dash of port wine. Ornament with fruits in season, and ice-cream, and serve with a straw and spoon. MIXED DRINKS. 145 94. filaret Cobbler. A large, fine glass, a squirt of Seltzer, a spoonful of sugar; mix this; a glass of claret; stir this well; fill your glass with fine ice. Ornament with fruits and ice-cream, and serve with a straw and spoon. You may add a dash of Jamaica rum before ornamenting. (These recipes will do for any cobbler you want.) 95. Pain in Ji?j. A large mixing-glass, the juice of half a lemon or lime, l /2 spoonful of sugar, glassful of fine ice, a drink of Old Tom or Holland gin. Shake this exceedingly well; strain into a fizz glass; fill the balance with Seltzer, and see that your guest drinks it at once. 96. Sitoer It is made in the same way as a plain gin fizz, only begin with the white of an egg in the bottom. 97. (Bolten Jtjj. It is made the same way as the silver fizz, only begin with the yolk of the egg. 98. Hogal Jijj. It is made the same way as the silver fizz, only begin with the whole of an egg. 99. ranlr Hojwl Jijj. It is made the same way as the royal fizz, only add a little or- ange-juice, a dash of maraschino and a dash of parfait amour or creme de roses. 146 MIXED DRINKS. 100. Imperial Jijj. This drink may be prepared, although it is made essentially the same way as the grand royal fizz, out of almost any kind of liquor such as gin, whiskey or brandy; add, instead of Seltzer or mineral water, champagne. This drink is intended for a com- pany of from three to six persons. 101. Cream This is made the same way as other fizzes, only put a small portion of cream in your glass before shaking; then put in the Seltzer; use a glass a little larger. 109. iKolet Ji. The juice of half a lemon and half a lime, a little sugar in the bottom of a glass, % glassful of fine ice, 1 drink of Old Tom gin, 2 dashes of genuine raspberry syrup, a pony of cream. Shake it up quickly, strain into a fizz glass, add a little Selt zer, and serve. You may use Holland gin instead of Old Tom. 103. Sitting Bull Jijj. A glass of cracked ice, the juice of a large lemon, a spoonful of fine sugar, Ys drink of Santa Cruz rum, 2 /2, drink of whiskey. Shake to the freezing-point, strain into a fizz glass and fill the balance with Seltzer. MIXED DRINKS. 147 104. 2lb0m% (AMERICAN STYLE.) A mixing-glass with fine ice, i dash of gum, 1 Yz ponies of absinthe. Shake this exceedingly well, strain into a cocktail glass, and serve. 105. 2tb0in% d la |)ari0ienne. A medium-sized glass, a drink of absinthe in the bottom. Fill your glass with cold water, by letting it drip into the glass very slowly. 106. !3lb0tn% am Dim* A tumbler % full of ice, 2 dashes of gum, i pony of absinthe, i dash of maraschino. Shake it heartily; freeze to the coldest degree; strain into a cocktail glass; drop a little creme de roses in the centre, and serve. 107. &l)e ant Dejeuner. A large glass with a good portion of imported Seltzer, a spoonful of sugar; mix this; a glass of Moselle wine; mix this; fill up with ice, i dash of port wine. Ornament the top with fruits in season. 114. C'2lrc ire (triomplje. Divide a pint of dry champagne frappe in 2 glasses, i lump of sugar in each with a spoon, i pony of cognac to each glass. Stir up well before serving. 115. #gg Beer. Beat a whole egg with a spoonful of sugar in a glass, and fill it up with beer. 116. % |Jan0t3 3810000m. (FOR TWO.) A large tumbler with some fine ice, 6 dashes of gum, X glass of Russian kiimmel, X glass of absinthe, X glass of vino vermouth, X glass of maraschino, the whites of two eggs. Shake to the coldest point; strain into 2 fancy glasses, and serve. I5O MIXED DRINKS. 117. e Bon Botre. (FOR FOUR.) A large glass with ice, l /i of maraschino, Y-LQ of anisette, /io of creme de roses, YIQ of creme de vanille, l / ro of parfait amour, y io of creme de the (tea), Ko of celestine, I /I Q of creme de cocoa, l /io of fine old brandy, y^ of Benedictine. Shake well, strain, and serve in fancy glasses. 118. Brahmapootra. An egg, and a spoonful of sugar in a glass, a little lemon-juice; fill your glass with ice; i pony of brandy, i dash of creme de roses, i dash of creme de mocha, i dash of creme de vanille, a little cream. Shake well, strain, and serve. 119. Brantm ru0ta. A mixing-glass, a little sugar, a little plain water, enough to dissolve it; fill the glass % full of ice, stir this well ; a drink of brandy; mix again. Pare a round, clean lemon; place this on the inside of a wine- glass; strain your mixture into it, and serve. MIXED DRINKS. 151 120. A goblet with fine ice, 2 dashes of curagao, 2 dashes of parfait amour, i dash of maraschino, YZ dash of peppermint cordial, i YI ponies of brandy. Mix well, and serve. 121. Braubg totop. A mixing-glass, half a spoonful of sugar, a little water, enough to dissolve the sugar, % full of ice, i drink of brandy. Stir this very well; strain into a cocktail glass; grate a little nutmeg on top. (Any other toddy may be prepared the same way.) 122. l)e Bribge Bracer. A large glass with fine ice, beat a fresh egg, 1 barspoonful of powdered sugar, 2 dashes of bitters, i pony of brandy. Mix this, add a bottle of imported ginger ale; stir thoroughly, strain, and serve. 123. ffilje Broker'0 fflljcmgljt. The white of an egg in a mixing-glass, the juice of a lime, a little fine sugar, some fine ice, % drink of whiskey, Y$ drink of Santa Cruz rum. Shake this thoroughly well; strain into a fancy glass; fill up with milk, while you stir it with a spoon, and serve. 152 MIXED DRINKS. 124. % Hn Bouquet. (FOR TWO.) A goblet with fine ice, 3 dashes of gum, 2 ponies of absinthe, 2 ponies of benedictine, 2 dashes of creme de roses, i dash of anisette, the whites of two eggs. Shake very well, strain, and serve. 125. Calia Cilg. (FOR TWO.) In a mixing-glass put the yolks of 2 fresh eggs, a spoonful of sugar, Yz glassful of fine ice, \Yz ponies of brandy, i y 2 ponies of Jamaica rum, 1 dash of maraschino, 2 ponies of cream, a few drops of creme de rooes; shake this well. Whip the whites of the eggs into a snowy foam with a little sugar. Pour out your drink into two glasses, and crown the whole with the foam. 126. Claret |)uncl). A large, thin glass, the juice of half a lemon, a squirt of Seltzer, a spoonful of sugar; mix well; a glass of claret; mix this again. Fill your glass with fine ice to the top; put some ice-cream on top; ornament with orange and berries in season. MIXED DRINKS. 153 127. Cljocolak |)uncl). A glass with an egg in the bottom, a spoonful of sugar, */$ of brandy, l /2> of port wine, i dash of creme de cocoa, 1 pony of cream. Fill your glass with ice; shake well; strain, and serve. 128. Claret Cup. A good sized bowl, % pony of maraschino, YZ pony of Curasao, Yz pony of benedictine, Yz pony of chartreuse (yellow), the juice of 6 limes, 2 bottles of claret, i bottle of Rhine wine or Moselle, a bottle of Apollinaris, Yz pound of sugar, a little rind of a cucumber, a little orange and pineapple sliced, a few sprigs of mint. Stir this very well; add a little coarse ice, and serve. 129. t)e Cosmopolitan Cooler. A long glass, the juice of 2 limes, a few dashes of Seltzer, a spoonful of powdered sugar, mix this well; a drink of Santa Cruz rum, then fill the glass with fine ice, stir all ingredients well; a dash of Jamaica rum. Crown it with vanilla ice-cream and ornament with berries lightly powdered with sugar; serve with a straw. 154 MIXED DRINKS. 130. Champagne (Hup. It is made like a claret cup, only use champagne instead of claret. 131. Columbus JjJuncI). The juice of half an orange and the juice of half a lemon in the bottom of the glass; dissolve this with a spoonful of sugar and a dash of mineral water, 1 glass of Chianti, 2 dashes of Jamaica rum, i dash of maraschino, I dash of brandy. Mix this well, fill your glass with fine ice, add a dash of Ro- soglio and ornament with fruits and ice-cream. 132. Coffee anb Hum. (FOR COLD AND SORE THROAT.) Break an egg in a glass, beat it up well; a spoonful of sugar, a drink of old Jamaica rum. Mix this up well, pour in a cup of the best mocha or Java coffee hot and finish with a piece of best butter. Best take this drink right after rising. 133. Stye Correspondent. A pony glass, Ys of creme de roses, y$ of green chartreuse, */$ of brandy. Light this for two minutes and serve. MIXED DRINKS. 155 134. (faster Crocus. A large mixing-tumbler, a fresh egg in its bottom, the juice of %. a lemon, i barspoonful of sugar, . fill the tumbler with ice, i drink of Old Tom gin, i dash of maraschino, i dash of creme de vanille. Shake this thoroughly well; pour out into a thin glass and fill the little vacant space with ginger ale. 135. Stye Southern <8ro00. A mixing-glass, the juice of a lime, a dash of mineral water, a spoonful of sugar, % of St. Croix rum, Y$ of brandy, i dash of curagao. Stir this well, fill your glass with fine ice, stir again and strain into a sour glass. 136. &l)t Croum. A pony glass, Ys of maraschino, l /2, of green chartreuse, l /$ of benedictine, each separate. 137, Curasao |]uncl). A long, thin glass, the juice of half a lemon, 4 dashes of gum, Yz pony of brandy, YZ pony of Jamaica rum, YI pony of curagao. Fill your glass with ice, stir well, ornament with fruits and ice-cream, serve with a spoon and straw. 156 MIXED DRINKS. 138. "<&lje tllorlbV fitovning EWtgljt. A large tumbler, the juice of half a lemon, the juice of half an orange, a little fine sugar, 2 dashes of Russian kiimmel, 2 dashes of maraschino, i Yz ponies of absinthe. Fill your glass with fine ice, shake this well, strain, add some Seltzer and serve. 139. Cables' Delight. -V 9 A large, thin glass, a spoonful of sugar, a cup of cold coffee, % of brandy, X of Jamaica rum. Fill your glass with ice, stir well, ornament with ice-cream and berries, and serve with spoon and a straw. 140. tlje EHtple*. (FOR TWO.) Break 2 eggs in a large glass, 2 barspoonfuls of powdered sugar, % full of ice, i drink of sherry, i drink of port wine, y 2 pony of benedictine, a small whiskey tumbler of cream. Shake extremely well and strain into two fine glasses. 141. eneral It is made as any egg-nogg, only use cider instead of liquor, and no milk. MIXED DRINKS. 157 142. A large mixing-glass, a fresh egg in its bottom, a tablespoonful of sugar, a little fine ice, ^3 of Santa Cruz rum, % of brandy, i dash of maraschino or creme de vanille. Fill your glass with milk; shake this exceedingly well, strain into a large, thin glass, add the oil of a little lemon-peel on the top, and serve. (This drink may be made of almost any kind of liquor that is desired.) 143. The juice of Yz a lime in a glass, a spoonful of sugar, the white of an egg, a little drink of Irish whiskey, 2 dashes of Tonic Phospate, % full of ice. Shake, strain and fill balance with Seltzer. 144. l)e Jmtnfoatkm. (FOR TWO.) A large tumbler with 2 fresh eggs, the juice of a lemon, 2 barspoonfuls of sugar, l /t glass of shaved ice, 2 dashes of calisaya, 2 drinks of Old Tom gin, 1 dash of absinthe, 2 dashes of vino vermouth. Shake for full 2 minutes; strain into a high glass; fill the balance with carbonic water, and serve. 158 MIXED DRINKS. 145. of maraschino, Ye of curagao, */(> of benedictine, Yd of chartreuse (green), Ye of brandy, each separate. You may drop in a little bitters on the top, and set fire to the brandy. While burning, squeeze a little orange-peel on it, which will produce a fine pyrotechnical effect.) 201. aijc "tDorlbV $01100* Cafe. % of maraschino, }i of creme de roses, X of benedictine, X of brandy, each separate. A drop of bitters in the centre; set fire to the brandy, and serve. MIXED DRINKS. 1/3 202. Ca Jlremtere. (FOR TWO.) Place the leaves of four sprigs of mint and one-half spoonful of sugar in a large tumbler, 2 dashes of mineral water. Squeeze out the extract, to give it a dark green tincture. Fill your tumbler two -thirds full of chopped ice; add two small drinks of Tom gin; stir to a very cold degree; strain into two cocktail glasses; place a small sprig of mint in each, allow- ing the stem to rest on the bottom; sprinkle a little sugar on the leaves; add a little champagne, and serve. 203. aije Ctfc-flrolongor. A large glass, with a fresh egg, i spoonful of fine sugar, % full of fine ice, % of sherry wine, ]/$ of port wine, 1 dash of creme de roses, 2 ponies of cream. Shake this exceedingly well, strain into a large glass, and serve. 204. lc >umt of A glass, with a dash of chartreuse in the bottom, % of port wine, y$ of Madeira, i dash of brandy, 1 dash of creme de roses, 2 dashes of gum. Fill your glass with ice; mix well; strain, and serve in a cut glass. 174 MIXED DRINKS. 205. Stye of port wine. Shake this for a full minute; strain into a fancy glass, and serve. MIXED DRINKS. 175 208. Stye Reminder. A goblet, with i dash of maraschino, i dash of creme de roses, glass of fine ice, Yz of sherry, Yz of port wine, Yz of vino vermouth. Mix this thoroughly; strain into a fancy glass, and serve. 209. Roman A large, thin glass, the juice of an orange, the juice of half a lime or lemon in the bottom, a spoonful of sugar, a squirt of mineral water, dissolve this well; Yz pony of curagao, Yz pony of maraschino, i pony of brandy, 1 dash of Jamaica rum. Mix this thoroughly well; fill your glass with fine ice; orna- ment the brim with oranges and pineapple, and the centre with ice-cream and berries. Serve with a spoon and a straw. 210. Retime. A mixing-glass, with ice, 2 dashes of gum, i pony of brandy, Yz pony of maraschino, Yz pony of curagao, Yz glass of vanilla ice-cream. Shake this very well; strain and serve. 176 MIXED DRINKS. 211. $\)t llequkm. In a mixing-glass an egg, a spoonful of powdered sugar, pony of brandy, dash of sherry, dash of port wine, dash of maraschino, pony of cream. Fill your glass with ice, shake it and strain into a high cham- pagne glass. 212. Sans Sotm. (FOR TWO.) A large glass, with the juice of a lime or lemon, a spoonful of sugar, the yolks of two eggs, fill your glass two-thirds full of ice, 2 ponies of absinthe, i pony of maraschino, i pony of vermouth, * i dash of white curagao. Shake this exceedingly well; strain into two fancy wine- glasses, beat up the white of one egg to the form of frozen snow, with some sugar ; put this on top of your two drinks, and serve with a spoon. 213. Stye 0enator. A glass with shaved ice, Yd of brandy, l /6 of maraschino, l /(> of curagao, l /e> of chartreuse, l /6 of benedictine, l /6 of creme de roses. Shake this well, strain into a cocktail glass, and serve. MIXED DRINKS. 177 214. t)e Stjanirg @aff. A glass of Bass ale and a glass of ginger ale are mixed in a glass together, and served. 215. Stye Snou)balL A large glass with an egg; beat up well with a little powdered sugar, add a bottle of genuine cold ginger ale while you stir it thoroughly, and serve. You may add a pony of brandy. 216. "ffllje Sun." The juice of half an orange and half a lime in the bottom of a large, thin glass; add and dissolve a spoonful of powdered sugar with a dash of mineral water, i pony of fine brandy, Yz pony of Jamaica rum, i dash of benedictine, i dash of curayao, 1 dash of creme de roses. Mix this thoroughly, fill your glass with fine ice; stir well; ornament with frozen snow in the centre, and the brim with fruits; write on the top of the snow " The Sun," with nutmeg. Should you have no real snow, beat up the white of an egg with a little fine sugar. 217. "Stye t>ening 0mt." (FOR FOUR.) In a large glass, the juice of a large lemon, 2 barspoonfuls of powdered sugar, fill the glass with chopped ice, a drink of fine brandy, a pony of green chartreuse, Y* pony of creme de roses, the whites of 2 eggs. Shake this to the freezing-point. In four glasses divide a pint of dry champagne; strain your ingredients into these four glasses very slowly, and serve. MIXED DRINKS. 218. test) ani in. Place a little tansy in a tumbler, add a little sugar, mix with a little water to extract the substance of the tansy; pour in gin (Holland or Old Tom), and serve with a spoon. 219. om anfo Jerrg. Break the yolks of six eggs in the bottom of a large bowl ; beat it long enough to make bubbles appear on the top; stir in some fine sugar gradually, until the mixture becomes hard enough, so that you may take out a spoonful of it without spilling anything; beat the whites of the eggs into the form of frozen snow in an- other bowl; add one-half of this to your first mixture; mix this together with two ponies of maraschino and two ponies of creme de vanille, take a tablespoonful of this mixture in a fancy Tom- and-Jerry cup; add a small drink of either brandy, whiskey, rum, sherry wine or port wine; mix this well; fill the balance with boiling milk; put a little of the white of the eggs you have got left on the top; add a little ground cinnamon and your drink is ready. (To keep your mixture in the bowl from getting hard, put a small glass of ale on the top.) 220. ip-op Sip. A goblet with a dash of creme de roses, i dash of absinthe, l /s of sherry wine, l /s of port wine, l /2> of vino vermouth, a little fine ice. Mix this thoroughly, strain into a fancy glass, and present. 221. a t)ie |)ari0ienne. Mix one part of Burgundy an<3 two parts of champagne in your glass. (This drink is one of the richest.) Also porter (Dublin Stout) may be mixed the same way with champagne with a most satisfactory result. MIXED DRINKS. 179 222. om Collins The juice of half a lemon in a large glass, a barspoonful of sugar, a drink of Tom gin; mix this well; 2 lumps of ice, a bottle of plain soda. Mix well and serve. 223. luncl) of I)iolet0. (FOR TWO.) Put an egg in a mixing-glass, a spoonful of sugar, y of anisette, l /{> of vino vermouth, l /f> of creme de vanille, l /6 of chartreuse, 2 ponies of cream. Fill your glass with ice; freeze into a jelly, and strain into long glasses, and serve. 224. tUUltam'a Summer (fTooler. In a very long cut glass the juice of two limes, a spoonful of powdered sugar, a good dash of Seltzer; dissolve this well; i pony of Santa Cruz rum, 1 glass of California claret; mix this. Fill your glass with ice; ornament with slices of orange and pineapple, and ice-cream, and top off with strawberries or other berries in season. 225. tUI)t0kea A goblet with a little fine ice, 2 dashes of gum, i drink of whiskey. Stir this well, strain and serve. 180 MIXED DRINKS. brinks. 226. A handful of fresh tansy is infused in a bottle of gin, this be- ing the best, although other liquors may be used, too; infuse for twenty-four hours at least. One-third of a drink will be sufficient for a drink, and be a good appetizer. 227. About a dozen fresh stalks of calamus are infused in a bot- tle of gin for twenty-four hours and served like the former. It is excellent for cramps. Hatafia0. Introduction to Ctquors cmb Batafias. THE manufacture of these alcoholic beverages is done, firstly, by distillation, by which method the finest liquors are obtained ; secondly, by extraction, and thirdly, by simply mixing volatile extracts of plants to cognac spirits, etc. They all contain larger or smaller quantities of dissolved sugar, and various aromatic or spicy ingredients. Distillation is more complicated and troublesome than the two other methods, but it secures products of far higher fineness and value ; yet the requirement of the apparatus necessary for manufacturing them renders the application too difficult in a household ; furthermore, a profound knowledge of chemistry, great practice and dexterity are required ; therefore, this manufacturing is better left to large establishments. The best and most exquisite liquors of this kind are im- ported from Dantzic, Breslau, Berlin, Stettin, Ham- burg, Mannheim, Vienna, Trieste, Amsterdam, Italy, Bordeaux, Paris, and the West Indies. The recipes to manufacture the most famous among them are mostly kept secret ; moreover, the foreign ratafias may not easily be imitated because many of the herbs and fruits required for the purpose are not growing in this country. 183 1 84 LIQUORS AND RATAFIAS. To prepare good and very palatable liquors for the family use we put down a series of recipes, as verified by our own experience, and that of others. But we declare here candidly and freely, that it is absolutely impossible to obtain by extraction the same liquors as by distillation. The liquors won by infusing fruits or blossoms, or by mixing with fruit-juices are called ratafias; the fine French, very sweet, and, on account of this, more consistent liquors are called cremes or huiles (oils) : creme de vanille, creme de Barbados, creme de cafe, de canelle, de chocolat, huile de rose, huile de Venus, de Jupiter, de Cy there, des demoiselles, etc. 228. A strong liquor made of vermouth; it is mainly drunk in France; it is said to strengthen the stomach. Swiss absinthe is the most renowned one. Recipe : To four quarts of cognac spirits take eight ounces of anise, one ounce of star anise, four ounces of great and four ounces of small fennel, one ounce of coriander, one-fourth ounce of angelica root, one ounce of angel sweet root, half an ounce of licorice, half an ounce of calamus, half an ounce of bitter almonds, one ounce of great and one ounce of small leaves of vermouth, one-fourth ounce of peppermint leaves, half an ounce of camilles, one-fourth ounce of juniper; let all these ingredients distill from three to four weeks on a warm place, or in the sun- light; filter and fill into bottles. 229. 2llmonb0' <00ntce. One and a half pounds of sweet and four ounces of bitter almonds are poured over with boiling water in a sieve; skin and LIQUORS AND RATAFIAS. 185 dry them; grind them very fine by adding from one to one and a half pints of cold water. Refine three pounds of sugar to what is called sucre a la plume, i.e., boil the sugar in water until the sugar, sticking to the wooden spoon can be blown off in bubbles of the size of a pea; add now the ground almonds; let all boil up once, and cool off well covered ; press through a hair sieve, fill into small bottles, cork well, and keep them on a cool place. 230. Slnanaa (KorWal. Cut one-fourth of an unpeeled pineapple into small pieces; boil one quart of water with six ounces of lump-sugar; skin care- fully; add the pineapple, and put all in a great stone jar or a demi- john; pour three pints of old Jamaica rum or brandy over it; let it soak a fortnight on a warm place; filter and fill into bottles. 231. Angelica CortrtaL Cut one ounce of fresh or dried angelica into small pieces, put it with one-sixth ounce of cloves, one-sixth ounce of cardamom, one-third ounce of stick cinnamon in a demijohn; pour over it three pints of cognac; let it stand about four weeks in a warm place: sweeten with one pound of lump-sugar refined and clear- ed in one pint of boiling water. 232. 2lm0ette Cortual. A fine French cordial; the best one comes from Bordeaux; it is to be warmly recommended after rich dinners, as it helps digestion. Take six quarts of cognac, four ounces of pulverized star anise, four ounces of ordinary anise, the peel of two lemons, one ounce of stick cinnamon; let this stand four weeks in the sun, or in a warm place; sweeten with two and a half pounds of lump-sugar, refined and cleared in three quarts of boiling water; filter and bottle. 186 LIQUORS AND RATAFIAS. 233. Apricot Corbtal. Twenty-five apricots are cut in two; mash their pits, and put all in a stone jar; add half a pound of sugar, six cloves, and half a stick of cinnamon; pour one quart of cognac over it, cover or cork it well ; let it stand about three weeks in a warm place, shake it once in a while; filter, and bottle. 234. Arrack. Arrack is a strong, alcoholic beverage of light yellow color; it is prepared in the East and West Indies from the juice of the areca palm-tree, from the sugary juice of the blossoms of the cocoa palm-tree, which is called toddy, from sugar-molasses or from rice with palm-juice. The arrack of Goa and Batavia are the best brands and of very delicious odor and taste. The manufacturing is mostly done in very simple, imperfect apparatus, chiefly on Java: the best brand there is called Kiji, the second, Taupo, the last, Sichow. 235. I3alm Corbtal. Infuse in one quart of fine cognac a handful of balm-leaves for twenty-four hours in the sunlight or upon the stove; remove the leaves, add one pound of powdered sugar, expose the cordial two days to the sun, until the sugar is all dissolved; filter, and bottle. 236. Basle Ktr0d)tDas0er. This well-known, famous liquor is obtained in Switzerland, mainly in the vicinity of Basle and in the Black Forest from the black and very sweet berries of the wood-cherries; gather them when they are very ripe in dry weather; free them from their stalks, and mash them in large tubs with wooden mashers; mash also a part of the pits ; then fill the entire substance into casks, each two-thirds full, and cover the bunghole. The fermentation begins soon, and lasts nearly three weeks; after fermentation is done, bring the whole into a distilling ap- LIQUORS AND RATAFIAS. 187 paratus; continue distilling while slowly heating, until absolutely light, colorless kirschwasser is distilled over to the condenser. This distillate is distilled over again, and filled into bottles. Many trials have been made to find an equivalent for this ex- cellent cordial, but in vain; never take any but the genuine im- ported Basle kirschwasser. 237. UUbtrra Coririal. Infuse any quantity of red bilberries in a wide-necked, large bottle with enough cognac to cover them; cork the bottle, place it on a sunny spot, and let it stand until the berries have lost their red color. Filter, add to each quart of liquor one pound of refined sugar-syrup, and bottle. It is a favorite drink in Sweden and Russia. 238. UeneMctme. The active part of the genuine Benedictine cordial is com- posed nearly exclusively of plants growing on the steep precipices of Normandy; they are gathered and infused at the time when the sap rises, and the blossoms spring forth. These herbs, grow- ing near the sea, are saturated with bromine, iodine, and chlo- ruret of sodium, and develop and keep their healing power in the alcoholic liquids; only best cognac is used for infusion. 230. J3i0t)op CorMal. Peel twelve bitter oranges, infuse the rind with one quart of old Jamaica rum or arrack de Batavia in a well-covered tureen for twenty-four hours; strain the fluid, and fill it into small bot- tles, cork, and seal. Use two tablespoonfuls of this essence to a bottle of claret, and sweeten to taste. 240. Bitter-Orange CorMal. Put the rind of six thinly peeled bitter oranges in a stone pot, add the filtered juice of the fruit and two quarts of best brandy; 1 88 LIQUORS AND RATAFIAS. let it soak for three days, well covered; clear and refine one and a half pounds of sugar, add it to the liquor, filter and bottle; do not use it before six months. 241. Make with a fine needle little holes in the skin of six bitter oranges, place them in a large bottle; pour in two and a half quarts of brandy; let soak for four weeks, add syrup made of one and a half pounds of sugar and one pint of water; filter and bottle. 242. (!Ia0si0 Ciquenr. Put one pint of mashed black currants in a big bottle; add half a pound of pulverized sugar and one quart of cognac; cork the bottle well, and let it stand for six weeks in the sun; shake daily; then strain through canton flannel, bottle, and let the bottles lie for a while. 243. Cassia llatafia. Put in a stone pot one quart of well-cleaned black currants; mash them, add twenty to thirty raspberries, tied up with some cloves in a little muslin bag; add two and a half quarts of brandy; let it stand for eight weeks; filter; mix it with one pound of sugar refined to syrup, which must be still hot; let it again stand for some days, then filter, and bottle. 244. I)artrm0e. The preparation of this famous cordial and its trade is mo- nopolized by the monks of the monastery Grande Chartreuse, in the French departement Isere; the monastery was built by St. Bruno in the year 1086. The monks keep their secret very carefully; an imitation may be obtained io the following way: Take one pint of the best brandy or kirschwasser, eight drops of vermouth essence, one drop of cinnamon essence, one drop of rose essence, and twelve ounces of sugar that was refined and cleared in one pint of water; strain through flannel, cork, seal, and let it lie at least eight weeks. LIQUORS AND RATAFIAS. 189 245. noble llatafia. Mash a quantity of very ripe sour cherries with a wooden masher, pits included; let the mash soak forty-eight hours in a clean wooden tub, then squeeze the juice. Refine the sugar, two pounds to every six or seven quarts, add the sugar syrup to the juice, one-third ounce of cloves, two-thirds of an ounce of broken cinnamon, two handfuls of fresh sour cherry leaves, and six quarts of cognac; pour everything into a small cask, which, while daily shaken, has to lie four to six weeks; bottle the rata- fia after filtering; use after a while. 268. Qtp Ciqueur. Infuse one and a half pounds of fresh, well-cleaned hips, cut into pieces, in one quart of kirschwasser a fortnight in a warm place; refine and clear six ounces of sugar in half a pint of boil- ing water; let this get cool, and mix it with the liquor; strain it through blotting-paper, and bottle it. LIQUORS AND RATAFIAS. 195 269. A wide-necked bottle is filled with ripe, dried cones of the hop; shake them together without pressing, infuse it with sher- ry for four weeks; strain and mix it with a thin sugar syrup of six ounces of sugar with half a pint of water; strain again, bottle and seal; use either unmixed or with water as a tonic for the stomach. 270. Jvisl) 10qucbaugl). (SEE WHISKEY.) This famous cordial, which the French call Scubac, is prepar- ed in various ways. One and one-fifth ounces of nutmeg, as much of cloves and of cinnamon, two and one-third ounces of anise, as much of kiimmel and coriander are mashed; put this with four ounces of licorice root, twenty-three quarts of rectified alcohol, and four and a half quarts of water in the distilling apparatus; color the condensated liquor with saffron, and sweeten with sugar syrup. 271. Infuse one ounce of grated nutmeg, as much of cinnamon, angelica, rhubarb and cassia; one-third ounce of saffron, as much of cardamom, cloves and mace; one-third ounce of coriander, as much of anise and kiimmel, and three and one-third ounces of licorice root in twenty-three quarts of brandy a fortnight; filter the liquor; sweeten with sugar syrup, filter again and bottle; use after a few months. 272. In smaller quantities this liquor is prepared by Irish house- wives as follows : Infuse one pound of seedless raisins, half an ounce of grated nutmeg, one-fourth of an ounce of pulverized cloves, as much of cardamom, the peel of a sour orange rubbed off on sugar, half a pound of brown rock-candy, and a little saffron tincture in two quarts of brandy a fortnight; stir daily; filter and bottle. LIQUORS AND RATAFIAS. 273. 3m Ciqueur. This is very good, green bitters, which is obtained in Switzer- land out of the Achillea Moschata, a shrub that grows on the highest Alps; it is of great aromatic odor and taste, and a great article for export. 274. lumper CorMal. Mash slightly half a pint of fresh juniper berries; infuse it with four quarts of cognac a fortnight in a large glass bottle ; expose it to the sunlight; filter; mix with a syrup of one and a half pounds of sugar in three-fourths of a quart of water; cork well; let the mixture stand for a few days; filter and bottle. 275. Kajotoskn. (SLOE RATAFIA.) After you have plucked, at the end of September a sufficient quantity of very ripe sloes, spread them on a sheet of paper, lay them one day in the sun, then take the pits out, wash them and dry them in the sun. For each half a pint of pits take one quart of cognac; break the pits, and put shells and pits in the cognac; let it stand for six weeks; shake now and then. Filter after this time, and fill into a large, flat tureen, then boil for each quart of liquor three pounds of loaf-sugar over a fast fire to a brownish syrup; add this carefully, while stirring, to the liquor; continue stirring until both liquids are well mixed, bottle, cork and seal. (The longer you let it lie, the better your liquor will become.) 276. Kummel. Fill three quarts of cognac or kirschwasser, six ounces of bro- ken caraway, and two-fifths of an ounce of star am'se into a glass bottle, close it with a bladder, and place it in a pot partly filled with cold water; now heat this, and let boil for half an hour; take the pot from the fire, and let the bottle get cool in the water, then sweeten the liquor with two pounds of refined sugar; filter, bottle and cork well. LIQUORS AND RATAFIAS. 197 277. ftnotljer. With the aid of oils the method of manufacturing is as follows: dissolve 30 drops of caraway extract, 2 drops of fennel oil, i drop of cinnamon oil in one ounce of spirits; mix this to four quarts of cognac and three pounds of refined sugar; filter and bottle. 278. Cnnon liatafia. Infuse the thinly peeled rind of four or five lemons with two quarts of cognac or kirschwasser in a corked bottle, for twelve days, in a moderately warm place; boil one and a half pounds of lump-sugar in two quarts of water until the sugar drops from the wooden spoon in large flakes; add the spirit, let it simmer over a slow fire for a few minutes, strain through flannel, and bottle after cooling. 279. (ffnglisl) Cemon Eatafta. Four quarts of cognac are filled into a stone jar with one and a half pounds of pulverized sugar, the juice and the rind of six- teen lemons, and two quarts of boiling milk; stir thoroughly; cover the pot and let it stand for ten days; stir the fluid daily; then strain it through flannel, and bottle. 280. HTagenbittn-0. Three ounces of bitter-orange peel, three-fourths of an ounce of star anise, one-fourth of an ounce of ordinary anise, half an ounce of gentian, half an ounce of alant root, one-fourth ounce of Erythr&a Centaurium, and one-fourth ounce of cremor tar- tari; infuse these ingredients in four quarts of cognac two to three weeks; filter, sweeten with two pounds of refined sugar and bottle. 198 LIQUORS AND RATAFIAS. 281. Three ounces of orange-peel, one-fourth ounce of vermouth, one-fourth ounce of Erythrcea Centa^e. Infuse half an ounce of fine black tea in half a pint of boil- ing water for five minutes; decant and pour it into a tureen; rub the rind of a lemon on three pounds of lump-sugar, refine in one pint of boiling water; skim well; add a piece of vanilla, cut into small pieces, and half an ounce of dried orange-flowers; take the sugar from the fire, and leave vanilla and orange-flowers one hour in it; then strain through a sieve into a tureen. Now add a wineglassful of maraschino, the juice of five oranges, two bottles of Rhine wine, two bottles of Medoc, one bottle of Madeira, and one bottle of arrack; let the mixture get very hot, without boiling, and serve it hot; it is still better when very cold. 343. Crambamlmli. Pour one bottle of arrack into a pot, light the fluid with burning paper, and melt one pound of lump-sugar over this flame, so as to make the melting sugar drop into the fluid. PUNCHES. 217 r 344. (Bream |)i:nct) a I'SUncriquc. Beat the yolks of six eggs with one pound of powdered sugar; add half a bottle of fine rum or arrack; beat one and a half quarts of milk and the whites of the six eggs to a consistent foam; mix both ingredients together, and beat again. (This drink is very palatable, especially for ladies.) 345. Currant Sljritb. It is a kind of punch essence which, in combination with cold or hot water, furnishes a very delicious drink. Two quarts of currants are put in a pot which is placed in a larger one partly filled with water; let it slowly boil until the berries burst and the juice flows out; skim well and filter; to each pint of juice take three-fourths pound of sugar; dissolve it well, and add one quart of old Jamaica rum; filter the mixture again, bottle, and seal. 346. -Jlake0. Two bottles of Moselle or Rhine wine are slowly heated with some lemon-peel and four ounces of sugar. Beat the whites of four eggs with a little powdered sugar and some lemon extract to a thick foam; with a spoon take off small snowballs from the foam, and place them in the boiling wine; take them out again carefully with a lifter; then stir the yolks of the eggs in a little wine, and add it to the hot wine while continually stirring. Pour the wine in a bowl; place the snowballs on top, and grate a little cinnamon. 422. Sporting JJundj. A bottle of brandy, half a pint of Jamaica rum, half a pint of peach brandy, a wineglassful of curagao, one-fourth pound of sugar dissolved in hot water; mix all this in a bowl; add a lump of ice, and serve. PUNCHES. 235 423. 0tcel |)uncl). Infuse a small stick of vanilla, some stick cinnamon, and two cloves in half a pint of water on a warm place, about 200 F.., well covered; filter into an enameled pot; add one quart of claiet, five ounces of powdered sugar, and stir very well; make an iron red hot, hold it in the fluid until it gets cold; stir the yolks of six eggs in a little claret, add them, and beat all to foam over a slow fire. 424. StrcuubttTg |3uncl). Two quarts of fine, ripe strawberries are mashed in a stone pot; add one bottle of Santa Cruz rum; tie it closely, and let it stand three days; stir once a day; strain and squeeze through canton flannel; now put one pound of granulated sugar in a bowl; press the juice of two lemons thereon; pour the rum over it, and add finally three quarts of boiling water; cover the bowl well, and do not serve before the punch is perfectly cold. 425. "Se*a0 Sittings" |htnd). Pare off the peel of four blood-oranges very thin; pour over it a large glass of white wine; let soak for half a day in a well- covered tureen; strain the wine into a bowl; add two bottles of good Bordeaux, two bottles of Rhine or Moselle wine, and two bottles of champagne; sweeten to taste; mix all well, and serve in glasses. 426. A bottle of white wine, as much water, and four ounces of sugar are heated to the boiling-point; the yolks of six eggs beaten into it to a thick foam, mixed with two wineglassfuls of arrack; serve in glass mugs. 427. Hniteir Smnce $tmcl). In one and a fourth quarts of hot, strong tea dissolve one pound of sugar; add the juice of six lemons, one pint of arrack, and one pint of port wine; warm up, and serve. 236 PUNCHES. 428. i)in Brulc. Two bottles of white wine with three-fourths pound of sugar, on which the peel of two lemons was rubbed off, the juice of the lemons, and a piece of cinnamon are placed over a slow fire in a well-covered new earthen pot; just before boiling add, through a hair-sieve, the yolks of eight or ten eggs, beaten in a little wine; take it from the fire, and serve in glasses. 429. iUaeljingtcm'a |Juncl). The juice of six lemons in a large bowl, a pound of sugar, a pint of Jamaica rum, a pint of brandy, one and a half pints of black tea; add five or six bottles of champagne; mix this well; add some sliced oranges and pineapples, one large piece of ice, and serve. 430. tUljfekeg JJuncI). Rub the rind of three lemons on seven ounces of sugar; put the sugar in a tureen; add one quart of boiling water and the juice of the fruit; this syrup is mixed with one pint or more of old Irish whiskey. 431. Ull)t3t. Half an ounce of Pecco tea is infused in one pint of boiling water; pour the tea through a hair-sieve upon one pound of su- gar; squeeze the juice of five or six lemons, and mix all with three quarts of very good Bordeaux; heat without boiling, and serve in glasses. Boiuls, 432. 3lncma0 Barol Peel a fresh pineapple, cut it into slices; place that in a large bowl, and cover with one pound of pulverized sugar; cover the bowl well, and let it stand from twelve to twenty-four hours; add, according to the number of guests, three, four, or more bottles of Rhine wine; for every bottle of wine add six ounces of lump-sugar; place on ice, and add, before serving, a bottle of champagne. 433. 2lnana0 (KarMnaL Peel a fresh pineapple; cut it into slices; put that in a bowl, sugar it well, pour in one bottle of Rhine wine, and let it stand for a couple of hours; add, then, according to the number of guests, three or four bottles of Rhine wine; put it on ice," and serve. 434. Ananas Mep. Peel a ripe pineapple; cut it into thin slices, and place that in a bowl; add the juice of two oranges, one gill of raspberry syrup, one gill of maraschino, one gill of old Holland gin, one bottle of sparkling Moselle wine, and a scoop of shaved ice; mix thoroughly, and fill into glasses. 435. Tipple Bowl. Peel twelve good, juicy, aromatic apples; remove the seeds; cut them into thin slices; put in a tureen thickly strewed with fine sugar; cover the tureen well, and let it stand in a cool place twenty-four hours; add a wineglassful of old Jamaica rum, and let it stand again for two hours; pour three to four bottles of alight Moselle or Rhine wine over it; put the tureen on ice for a few hours; strain the wine through flannel, and add one bottle of champagne. 239 240 BOWLS. 436. Babminton. Peel one-half of a cucumber of medium size; cut into rather thick slices; put them in a bowl; add six ounces of pulverized sugar; grate a little nutmeg on top of it, and add a bottle of claret; put the bowl on ice, and add, after stirring, a siphon of Seltzer. 437. dnlbf Bm* Bowl. Infuse the peel of a lemon, a thin slice of toast, some ground nutmeg and some pulverized ginger in a large wineglassful of brandy; add a sprig of borage, one of pimpernel, and some slices of peeled apples; pour over it two quarts of porter or ale, sweeten with three tablespoonfuls of sugar; cool it, and serve with cheese, bread and butter. 438. Colb Bialjojj. Peel a green, bitter orange very thin; put that in a new earthen pot; infuse it in one bottle of best Bordeaux or Bur- gundy in the well-covered pot from ten to twelve hours; strain, and sweeten at discretion. 439. oo0eberrg tUine. Forty pounds of large, but still green gooseberries are mash- ed in a tub, infused in eighteen quarts of lukewarm water; stir thoroughly; decant the water, and squeeze the fruits through a sieve, while you mix it again with four or five quarts of water. Dissolve thirty pounds of loaf-sugar, and three and one-third ounces of cremor tartari in the juice, and add water to have al- together fifty quarts of fluid: cover the tub with a cloth, and let it stand undisturbed two days in a temperature not below 6o p F. FRUIT WINES. 267 Then pour the wine into a cask containing exactly 45 or 46 quarts, and keep the remaining fluid for the purpose of rilling up afterward during fermentation; when you can no longer hear the hissing noise of fermentation, bung, but make a hole beside the bung with a gimlet, closed by a small cork, which is to be taken out every other day to avoid bursting. After ten or twelve days cork solidly; place the cask in a cool cellar, and let it lie till the end of December; decant the wine into a new cask, and clear with pale white glue in the proportion of one ounce to one quart of wine. In spring bottle at the time when the gooseberries of the same kind begin to bloom; fasten your corks with wire. 507. one iling d la Hu00e. Refine four pounds of honey, and mix it with two pounds of pulverized sugar, the rind of four lemons rubbed on sugar, and the juice of six lemons; after cooling mix it well with eight quarts of cold well-water; pour the fluid into a cask, bung it, and put it in the cellar. After a fortnight decant, bottle, cork, and seal, and let the bottles lie a few weeks before using. 508. Canon tUine. Boil six quarts of water with four pounds of lump-sugar to the consistency of syrup; peel five lemons, and put the rind in a large, clean pot; pour the boiling syrup over the rind; when the syrup is cool add the juice of ten lemons, a piece of toast covered with a spoonful of yeast, and let it stand two days, when fermentation begins. Then remove the rind; pour the fluid into a cask which must be completely filled; let the wine ferment, and cork when the fermentation is complete. After three months bottle and use. 509. range itttne. Boil twenty-eight pounds of loaf-sugar in thirty-two quarts of water, with the whites and the cracked shells of four eggs, the whites being beaten to foam; skim well; let the concoction get 268 FRUIT WINES. cool; add the juice of ninety bitter oranges; mix all very well; filter; add half a pound of yeast put on toast, let stand for twenty-four hours; fill into a cask, add one quart of fine brandy. After fermentation is complete, bung well; after three months decant into another cask, add another quart of brandy, let it lie for a year, bottle, and let the bottles lie for three months before using. 510. JJmr (SEIjampagtu. Juicy and sweet pears are mashed; press the juice out, and fill it into a small cask; cover the bung-hole with a piece of mus- lin, and let it stand for a few days. The juice begins now to ferment, and to foam considerably; after the fermentation is complete fill into another cask, bung well, and let it lie in a cel- lar for six weeks; after this fill the wine into bottles, fasten the corks with wire, and you may use it after three or four more weeks. 511. Hcusin iUine. Pour twenty-four quarts of boiling water over twenty-four pounds of extra good raisins; add six pounds of sugar; let it stand a fortnight; stir daily; decant the fluid, squeeze the rais- ins, and add three-fourths of a pound of finely pulverized cremor tartari; fill into a cask, let it ferment; bung; let it lie for six months, decant into another cask; let it lie again three months, and bottle. 512. If you wish a raisin wine resembling in taste the muscatel wine you proceed as follows: Boil eight pounds of choice raisins in twenty-four quarts of water perfectly soft, press them through a sieve, add the mass to the water in which the raisins have been boiled, likewise add twelve pounds of lump-sugar; when the sugar is dissolved let the wine ferment in a cask by adding one-fourth of a quart of yeast. When the fermentation is nearly over, hang a linen bag filled with two and a half quarts of elderberries into the cask; remove the bag as soon as the wine has the required taste ; let the wine lie for six months and bottle. FRUIT WINES. 269 513. ftabtn ' jtDhu in % fijebrnu St^le. The raisin wine, which is used as so-called Easter wine during the Passover in all orthodox Hebrew families, is easily made as follows: A fortnight before the feast, select three pounds of fine raisins; cut them in small pieces and remove the seeds; put them with one pound of sugar in a jug and pour over six or seven quarts of cold water; place the vessel, covered, on or behind the hearth; skim after three or four days; filter through a funnel lined with linen or blotting-paper into bottles; add to each bottle some stick cinnamon, lemon-peel, and cloves; cork well and put them in the cellar, until you use them. 514. $ia0pbm*2 tOtne. Ripe raspberries are mashed with a wooden spoon and put into a stone jar; add one quart of cold water to each quart of berries. The following day you decant the fluid, press the ber- ries through a cloth, add one pound of sugar to every quart of wine; fill the wine into a cask and stir daily; when fermentation is done, add one quart of white wine to every four quarts of raspberry wine; bung the barrel, let it lie three months, bottle the wine and it is ready for use. 515. ngli0l) topberrg tUhte. Throw twenty quarts of ripe raspberries into a tub, pour twenty quarts of boiling water over them, cover the tub well and let it stand until the following day; skim, press the berries through a hair-sieve and let the fluid stand again from four to five hours. Decant it into a barrel, add gradually twelve pounds of pulverized sugar, mix one quart of the fluid with three table- spoonfuls of very fresh ale yeast and mix this with the rest of the wine; cover the bung-hole with a piece of paper and a brickstone and let the wine ferment. As soon as the fermentation is over, bung the barrel well, and after four weeks decant the wine into 270 FRUIT WINES. another clean barrel; clear the fluid with two-thirds of an ounce of pale, sweet glue and add one quart of fine brandy to the wine; bung well and let it lie for a year in a cool cellar; bottle and seal, and let the bottles lie for another year. 516. Sloe tlltnt. Fresh, ripe sloes are put in a tub, for each quart of sloes one quart of water; boil the water and pour it boiling overthe sloes; let that stand five days; stir daily. Add to each quart of fluid one pound of loaf-sugar; dissolve by continually stirring; fill all in a cask, add one pint of brandy to each six quarts of fluid; let it lie in the cask for a year, at least, before bottling; let the bottles lie for another year, when the wine will have the gout of port wine. 517. Qpiccb tUtne. Wash one-fourth of an ounce of cloves, as much ginger, twice as much cinnamon and nutmeg; pour over it ten or twelve quarts of Madeira and let it stand for a few days in moderate warmth; strain it through blotting-paper and drink it in very small doses. 518. Straroborrg tUine. Pour over twelve quarts of strawberries twelve quarts of cold water and let stand twenty-four hours. Strain, add eight pounds of sugar, eight quarts of apple cider, the thin peel of a lemon and one ounce of cremor tartari; fill all in a barrel; it must oc- cupy not more than three-fourths of the barrel's volume ; bung, and bore a hole beside the bung with a gimlet; let the barrel stand four weeks on a temperate place. Then add three pounds of sugar, shake the barrel well and bung again. After six to eight weeks decant, add one quart of cognac, fill back the wine into the cleaned barrel, place it two months in the cellar; after this time decant into a smaller cask, which must be filled entirely; bung well ; bottle after three years and use. FRUIT WINES. 271 519. ttH0cl)nialf. (CHERRY WINE WITH HONEY A LA RUSSE.) Into a strong little cask, well bound with iron bands, you fill ripe sour cherries, so that only about two inches room is left; then pour slowly over the cherries clean, white, unboiled honey con- taining no particles of wax, and fill each empty space between the cherries with honey. As soon as the upper layer of cherries is nearly covered by honey, put the cover tightly on the cask, bung and seal well bung-hole and lid, or best cover the entire surface with pitch to prevent any air from entering; then sink the cask in sand or earth for three months; during this time the fermen- tation is going on ; there is great danger the cask might burst, unless it be of very strong material. After three months the wine is filtered, bottled, and is ready for use. THIRSTY earth drinks up the rain, Trees from earth drink that again; Ocean drinks the air; the sun Drinks the sea, and him the moon. Any reason, canst thou think, I should thirst while all these drink ? ANACREON. DRINK ! enjoy the hour; what the morrow bringeth None can tell; then vex not thy soul with idle care; Being and Not-being but a point divideth; Life is but a moment; then make that moment fair. Piles of hoarded treasure, heaps of gold and silver Hades self might chuckle, when thou call'st them thine; Surely thou hast nothing but that which thou enjoyest: Only while enjoying canst thou say, " Tis mine." AN OLD POET. HE who joy has never found In the flute's entrancing sound, Bacchus' gifts who dares despise Song and laugh and maidens' eyes; He who at his grudging board, Thinks upon his growing hoard, Reckoning interest in his head Him I count already dead. Shuddering and disgusted, I Pass the meagre carcass by. AN OLD POET. 275 276 POETRY. Now with roses we are crowned, Let our mirth and cups go round, While a girl, whose hand a spear, Wound with ivy twines, does bear, With her white feet beats the ground To the lyre's harmonious sound, Played by some fairy boy, whose choice Skill is heightened by his voice; Bright-haired Love, with his divine Mother, and the god of wine Will flock hither, glad to see Old men of their company. ANACREON. >tl)dlo, II. 3. AND let me the canakin clink, clink, And let me the canakin clink: A soldier's a man, A life's but a span, Why, then, let a soldier drink. biltong cwb Ckopatra, II. 7. COME, thou monarch of the vine, Plumpy Bacchus, with pink eyne: In thy vats our cares be drown'd; With thy grapes our hairs be crown 'd ; Cup us, till the world go round ; Cup us, till the world go round. King