THE
Land of the Montezumas
BY
Cora Hayward Crawford
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS
SECOND EDITION
NEW YORK
John B. Alden, Publisher
1889
-it^^ 0<dXy
COPYRIGHT 1889
BY
CORA HAYWARD CRAWFORD
To MY Mother
The Companion of my Travels
these pages are
affectionately inscribed
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
En RotJTE, I
Denver : the Rockies : Virginia Canon : Green
Lake: the Battle Ground of the Gods: Belle
View : Colorado Springs : Manitou : Cheyenne
Cafion : the Garden of the Gods : canon of the
Arkansas : Leadville : South Park : ascent of
Gray's peak : the dome of the continent : the
view : Las Vegas : Santa Fe : expedition to dis-
cover the Seven Cities of Cibola: the Rio
Grande: the Gadsden treaty, ... i6
CHAPTER H.
Over the Border, 17
El Paso : gambling : the climate : Paso del Norte :
a foreign land: the natives: the old church-:
altar decorations : smuggling : Mexican wag-
ons : the Farrocarril Central Mexicano : Amer-
ican capital : money exchange : on our way to '
the Land of the Montezumas : an old wagon-
trail : railroads in Mexico : oriental effedls, . 25
CHAPTER HI.
First Stop in Mexico, 265
Chihuahua : grand Cathedral : buildings of inter-
est : ugly custom of the border states: varied
V
/
VI TABLE OF CONTENTS.
scenes in the plaza : the aquedudt : trip to the
Santa Eulalia silver mines : a December morn-
ing : Sierra Colonel : Nombre de Deos : the
dusty roadway : vast slag-heaps : Hacienda Miil-
ler : at the mines : the Real de Santa Eulalia :
story of the discovery of silver here : entrance
to San Domingo mine : return to Chihuahua, . 37
CHAPTER IV.
Zacatecas, 38
Traversing broad plains : charatfler of the country':
system of taxation : haciendas : peons in bond-
age for debt : strong attachments among them :
crowds of beggars : pilgrims at the station :
street-cars in Mexico : a unique line : religious
festivities : power of the Church in Mexico : the
Cathedral : view from the Bufa : an old and ex-
tensive mining distritfl : mysterious depths :
galleries and tunnels, 50
CHAPTER V.
A Mexican Resort, 51
Aguas Calientes : a quiet hotel ; Mexican menus :
butter : method of churning : difficulties of lan-
guage : the town : the plaza : ice made from
the maguey : mercado de frutos : the plaza del
mercado : churches : military post : serape fac-
tory : cheapness of labor: manner of living,
diet and costumes of the peons : ^Mexican greet-
ing : the baths : Mexican etiquette, . . 64
CHAPTER VI.
r^ By Diligence to San Luis Potosi, . . 65
Lagos : diligence-lines giving way to railroads :
one of the final trips : the passengers : the road :
TABLE OF CONTENTS. Vll
San Luis : bird's-eye view of the city : ISIex-
ican courtships: "playing the bear": a wed-
ding party : marriage too expensive for the
poor : their mode of burial : past and present
of San Luis: headquarters of Santa Anna:
Buena Vista : the return trip : our fellow-pas-
senger : Leon, ..•••• 73
CHAPTER VIL
Mining in Mexico, 74
From Marfil to Guanajuato : mines and bene-
ficiary works: why we judge the Mexican as
w^anting in industry : the Castillo del Grenadi-
tas : Hidalgo : a state-prison : mines the prin-
cipal interest : mining under the Aztecs : gold :
"silver hills" more than figurative: the amount
of silver exported : mining laws : foreign com-
panies : the Veta Madre vein : Cornish miners :
Rosario mine : wonderful fascination of mining
enterprises : an ancient mine : the redudtion
works : the patio process best adapted to this
countr}': Sunday, ..... 87
CHAPTER VHL
Valenciana and Bolanos Mines, ... 88
Hacienda Rocha : picturesque sight : ore-break-
ers : the great shaft : one of the seven wonders
of the world: the under-ground workings: three
hours to reach the lowest levels : slipperj^ stair-
ways : the escalera : sampling a mine : uncanny
pits : rope-ladders : in a working-drift : abject
slavery : eight hundred millions taken from this
mine : the little water-carrier : bonanza leads :
the Bolanos veins : fairy tales : church records :
other vast deposits : coal, .... 102
Vlii TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IX.
Agriculture; and Kindred Interests, . . 1.03
Organ-cadlus fences : in the tropical zone : the
climate : irrigation necessary : primitive meth-
ods of husbandry : prejudice against modern
implements : the wheel-barrow : a thrashing
machine demolished : education slowly advanc-
ing : system of irrigating canals needed : Silao :
a ride into the country : a way -side chapel : an
image of Christ : the senora : excitement in the
city : a condudlor eludes the police : at the sta-
tion no
CHAPTER X.
Guadalajara in
Irapuato : strawberries in January : the road to
Guadalajara : a beautiful and prosperous city :
y^ the great Cathedral : its interior splendor :
hospital of San Miguel de Belan : Hospicio de
Guadalajara : a thousand inmates : Indian spe-
cialties : San Pedro : natural artists : the ala-
meda : lotteries : churches and plaz.as : trip to
the Barranca de Portillo : a burro ride : at the
Barranca: the last day, . . . . 119
CHAPTER XI.
QUBJRETARO THE CiTY OF ClIURCHES, . . I20
Antiquit}' of the city : stately cathedrals : the
Cerro de las Campaiias : the Church of Mexico :
the Church party : Juarez : celebrated Code of
Law: Alvarez forced to retire: Comonfort : sus-
pension of interest on foreign loans : the triple
alliance: intentions of Louis Napoleon: Maxi-
milian declared Emperor : his reception : im-
• " TABLE OF CONTENTS. IX
penal armies for a time vidtorious : republican
forces under Diaz : position of United States :
withdrawal of French troops : Carlotta : defeat
of Maximilian : trial by court-martial : [Maxi-
milian, Mejia and Miramon shot : echoes : a
story of Miramon : Church supremacy at an
end, 133
CHAPTER XII.
Industries of Queretaro 134
Arts of spinning and weaving: manufadluring
in Mexico : scarcity of fuel and water : the
aquedudt : Hercules cotton fadlory : opal mines :
scientists on opals : opals among the ancients :
mines of Hungary : famous stones : supersti-
tious fancies : the polishing at Queretaro : cau-
tion in buying opals : the valley about Quere-
taro : the maguey and its various uses, . 145
CHAPTER XIII.
Tula and the Valley of Mexico, . . 146
The Angelus : a saint's image versus the steam-
engine : the Tula Valley : traditions of the Tol-
tecs : Mound Builders : the earliest civilization
of the New World : mj'thical legend of Quetzal- ^
coatl : modern Tula : ruins of the ancient city :
resemblance to the Zuiii ruins : the Pueblo
Indians : discovery of pulque : Valley of Mex-
ico : the Tajo de Nochistongo, . . . 154
CHAPTER XIV.
The City of Mexico, 155
The arrival : Iturbide hotel : service of the hotels :
restaurants : the great plaza : Cathedral of Mex-
H
X TABLE OF CONTENTS.
ico : the Sagrario : a visit to the Palace : the Sal-
la de Embajadores : view from the Palace roof:
Sunday morning : the market : at the Alameda :
fashionable life on the Paseo : beautiful equi-
pages and courtly horsemen : mules for car-
riage use, 170
CHAPTER XV.
Guadalupe and Chapultepec, ... 171
The legend of Guadalupe : penitential processions :
the Guadalupe Cathedral: the Casa Choncas:
at the old chapel : worshiped image of the
Virgin : a sacred spring : an old grave-yard :
Santa Domingo Plazuela : visit to Chapultepec :
moss-draped trees : ascending the hill : startling
salute : the Military Academy : the Castle : a
grand view, . . . . . . 182
CHAPTER XVI.
Mexican Mythology, .....
The Museum : destrudlion of the pidture-writings :
origin of the Aztecs : resemblances to the I\Ion-
golians : theories of myths : polytheistic beliefs
of the Mexicans : the Sun and Moon wor-
shiped : certain stars and fire held sacred :
the "year-binding": festival of Tezcatlipoca :
Huitzilopochtli : the Aztec Calendar and Sac-
rificial stones : Quetzalcoatl : few pi(5ture-writ-
ings extant : marriages among the Aztecs :
shield of Montezuma and other curiosities, . 194
CHAPTER XVH.
Mexican History, . . . . . . 195
V Early hi.story: appearance of the Spaniards: Her-
nando Cortes : Montezuma sends presents : the
TABLE OF CONTENTS. XI
Spaniards visit the Toltonacs : dissensions of the
country : plans for conquest : on the plateau :
oppovsition of the Tlascalans : the Spaniards
vidlorious : an alliance formed : at Cholula :
treachery met with treachery : invitation to the
Aztec capital : the Spaniards looked upon as
demi-gods : the power of Cortes, . . 208
CHAPTER XVIII.
Mexican History, 209
The Spaniards leave Cholula : ascent of Popo-
catapetl : entrance of Cortes into the City of
Mexico : welcomed by the Emperor : Cortes
establishes his army : capture of Montezuma :
arrival of Narvaez : his defeat : return of Cortes
to the Aztec city : the garrison besieged : death
of Montezuma : the Spaniards suffer defeats :
horrors of the Noche Triste : battle of Otumba :
arrival at Tlascala : friendly reception, . 223
CHAPTER XIX.
Mexican History, . . .... 224
Dissatisfacftion among the Spanish troops : bold
stand of Cortes: new plans: reinforcements:
second march to the Valley of Mexico : cities
and towns demolished : Guatemozin on the
Aztec throne : the siege begun : unceasing hos-
tilities : Guatemozin refuses all terms of capitu-
lation : narrow escape of Cortes and a bloody
defeat : festivities in the Mexican city : proph-
ecies of the priests prove false and mourning
follows : Cortes determines upon the destru(5lion
of the city : fearful struggles : famine and dis-
ease : a last gleam of hope for the Aztecs, . 235
xii TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XX.
Mexican History, 236
Seven-eighths of the cit}- demolished: horrible suf-
ferings of the inhabitants : capture of Guatemo-
zin : the Empire of the Montezumas fallen : dis-
satisfaction in Spanish ranks : rebuilding the
city : Guatemozin sentenced to death : Cortes
revisits Spain and dies a disappointed man : ^
vice-regal period in New Spain : condition of
the people : subsequent history to present day, 248
CHAPTER XXI.
Civil Government, 249
The Constitution of Mexico : original confedera-
tion : governmental branches : elections : two
sessions of Congress : judiciarv^ branches : alien
proprietors : police regulations : ami}' and nav}' :
public debt : variety of coinage : post-office im-
provements : state-tariffs and their results, . 260
CHAPTER XXII.
A Visit to a Mexican Villa 261
Scene at the plaza : tramway ride : obtaining a
pig-skin : Tacubaya : extensive park : the Es-
candon villa : magnificent furnishings : orna-
ments and paintings : an Italian mosaic : inlaid
cabinets : luxurious appointments of the court :
the kitchen : family chapel : visit to San Fer-
nando cemetery : the tomb of Juarez : a com-
parative refledtion on the past political rulers of
Mexico, ....... 272
TABLE OF CONTENTS. xiii
CHAPTER XXIII.
Here and There about the City, . , 273
San Francisco street : homes of the Legation : the
National Library- : Monte de Piedad : Floating
Gardens : the Viga : convidt soldiers : feather-
work and rag-images : San Carlos Academy :
paintings from old masters : works of modern
artists : the Deluge : bull-fights in Mexico : visit
to the Noche Triste tree, .... 287
CHAPTER XXIV.
TiERRAS CalIENTES 288
Leaving the city : the maguey region : Otumba :
Malinche : sight-seeing in Puebla : the Cholula
pyramids : a wonderful railroad journey : rapid
descent : marvelous scenery : tropical profusion
of fruits and flowers : Vera Cruz : a sail on the
Gulf: sixty miles by street-car to Jalapa : scenes
along the way ; coffee-raising and other tropical
produdlions, 301
CHAPTER XXV.
Homeward Bound, 302
Adieu to the city : last glimpse of the fair vale :
the Mexican National : grand views : San Luis
Potosi : Monterey : the gate-way of the Sierras :
the Bishop's Palace : grand hacienda of Signer
Travino : again under the Stars and Stripes : in
California : an earthly paradise : orange-grow-
ing : grape-raising : yachting on the Pacific :
San Francisco: home, . , , 311
THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
CHAPTER I.
EN ROUTE.
IV /TONTHS of delightful travel have at length
■^^■*~ landed our indomitable party at the border-
land of the ancient realm of the Montezumas, and ;
promise to bring us to the realization of our desire
to visit a foreign land — a land far more foreign, j
indeed, to our Anglo-Saxon ideas and customs than
any of the cultured countries of civilized Europe,
and as different as the holy cities of Palestine, or
as Egypt under the Ptolemies.
En route we lingered long in the beautiful city
of Denver, that gate-way to the marvelous mount-
ain scenery of our American Alps, looking, as it
does, on one side across the vast prairies stretching
out for hundreds of miles between it and its sister
cities of the East, and on the other to the rising
foot-hills and proud peaks of the Rockies.
The trip out through Clear Creek Canon gave
us our first near view of these rugged mountains,
bringing us to Central City and Black Hawk,
I
2 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
where we found ourselves in the midst of a great
mining country. Here the sides of the mountains
are fairly honey-combed with deserted shafts — sad
monuments to the thousands who, during the first
years of the gold-fever, swarmed westward, each
with high hopes of immediately realizing the
wealth of a Monte Cristo, only to return crushed
and broken, or not to return at all. It is a country
of wreck and ruin, where hopes have sunk deeper
than the buried treasures so vainly sought; for the
gold-dream has proved real only to a very few who
have prospected here.
A wild drive was taken through Virginia Cailon
to the little village of Idaho Springs which nestles
in a narrow valley in the midst of the Rocky
Mountains. The road descends more or less
rapidly all the way, and it is the boast of the
driver that he goes down this canon in twenty
minutes. As the distance is six miles, over a fair
specimen of mountain road, rough and rocky, with
many sharp turns overlooking great and dizzy
depths, the sensations, mental and physical, were
none too pleasant. The discomfort, however, soon
outwearied us to such an extent that mental sensa-
tion of any kind became impossible, other than the
vague impression that everything would soon go
to pieces, and the consolation, equally vague, that
no danger nor disaster could be any worse. One
moment we are huddled together in a heap in the
middle of the vehicle, now gaining a firmer grasp
EN ROUTE. 3
on strap or rail in time to prevent a general scat-
tering by the way-side. Now, by way of variety,
our heads are dashed against opposing points, caus-
ing us to see stars that do not suggest thoughts of
a heavenly characfter ; and now our arms are almost
jerked from their sockets as our bodies are hurled
this way and that. One of us, overbold, ventures
to suggest to the driver that he put on the brakes.
" But we always go down this canon in twenty
minutes," was the reply ; and what are a few
broken bones and bruised heads in consideration
for a reputation like that ! So, with another snap
of the whip, down we tumble into the very town
itself, breathless and utterly surprised to find that
chaos has not come again.
Another excursion, and one more pleasurable,
was a drive from Georgetown up to Green Lake,
singularly situated at the top of a mountain ten
thousand feet above the sea. It is fed by springs
innumerable, and undoubtedly is attributable to
some convulsion of nature which caused a sudden
sinking of the land, carrying with it the primeval
forest, a part of which even now can be seen stand-
ing up from the bottom, and as scientists tell us, in
a state of petrifaction. The lake is bordered by
heavy cliffs wooded with a dark forest of pines that
mirror themselves in the crystal waters, wonder-
fully clear, although of as rich green as the lights of
the emerald, either from the character of its rocky
setting or from some unusual refradlive qualities.
4 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
At the farther end of this beautiful little lake is the
Battle Ground of the Gods, where huge bowlders
and masses of rock are piled together in utter
confusion, as if thrown there by the Titans who
had rent the very mountains asunder for weapons
in some mighty struggle for the supremacy of the
universe.
On the little mountain of Belle View, near
Central City, and which richly deserves the name
for the outlook from its summit gives, indeed, an
exquisite pidlure, there is a deep shaft into a mine
once the property of three enterprising young men.
We dropped stones into the opening and heard
them striking against the sides, as they tumbled
down, down, down, until all distin(5l sounds were
lost, and only faint, rumbling and sorrowful echoes
arose to our ears, as if the mingled voices of ghosts
from the deep, dead past. The " blossom rock,"
an indication to miners of the probable presence of
a vein, rises to the surface in several places here,
and, without doubt, when the claim was taken it
was thought to be one of great promise. At all
events, every dollar the young men possessed, or
could borrow or beg, they sank with the shaft into
what seemed to them would prove their treasure
house. For months they labored on, coming out
at night worn with toil and anxiety and with hopes
deferred, until another sun revived their courage,
and they again followed their ignis-fattms^ fasci-
nated by its brightness, and always seeming just
EN ROUTE. 5
beyond their grasp. Finally, when nature could
endure the wear and tear of mind and body no
longer, one of them became insane, another com-
mitted suicide, while the third joined the multitude
of tramps, a total wreck.
Colorado Springs we found to be a wonderfully
refreshing town. Its wide, clean streets are shaded
by beautiful trees which are nurtured by irrigating
streams of running water turned for six hours
alternately on either side of the streets. In this
way, too, Denver has been converted from a desert-
land into a forest city.
Manitou fascinated us with the beauty and
infinite variety of its scenery. It lies in the very
shadow of grand old Pike's peak, whose snow-
crowned crest seems fairly to touch the vault of
heaven. Between these two points are Cheyenne
Canon and the Garden of the Gods. The first is a
pidluresque cut between the mountains at the head
of which a riotous mountain torrent comes tumb-
ling down in seven continuous falls, dashing over
the rocks some hundreds of feet and finally ending
in a spray of white mist and foam. The beautiful
flora of the Colorado country is seen in its gayest
forms along this drive. There are whole fields
of yellow daisies, clusters of scarlet poppies, and
masses of flaming ca6li intermingled with feathery
ferns and the most delicate and soft tints of all
sorts of dainty wild flowers.
The Garden of the Gods is an extremely curious
6 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
assemblage of natural monuments, sometimes more
than two hundred feet high, and in every variety
of form, now a group of cathedral spires, now a vast
gate-way, again a colossal statue rearing its massive
head to the very skies, its huge, brown pedestal
buried in a field of deep red clay. These grand
sentinels are of conglomerate formation, speaking
plainly of an age when this sedlion must have been
a mountainous table-land long since washed away,
except the cemented, rocky portions that have re-
sisted the a6lion of time and still remain standing.
At Manitou we took the train to Leadville,
traveling through the glorious caiion of the Arkan-
sas. This river boils and foams over its rocky bed
through the wild and narrow gorges between the
mountains rising grand and majestic above the
tumultuous waters, in many places forming a per-
pendicular wall of granite from the river to the
clouds. At one point the cut is so narrow that
there was no possibility of building a road-bed, and
the pass could only be made by suspending the
track from an archway over the stream, using for
abutments the mighty mountains themselves which
here rise to a height of three thousand feet.
The scenery above Buena Vista is charmingly
pidluresque, but at Leadville there is a desolate-
ness that is appalling in the extreme. The alti-
tude is over eleven thousand feet above the level
of the sea, and the rarity of the atmosphere caused
us great discomfort. The town is rough, as only a
EN ROUTE. 7
mining town can be. There is not a tree nor a
shrub, nor even a bit of verdure for the eye to rest
upon. Mines and mining make up the entire
interest and industry of the place, and although
clouded with the unenviable reputation of having
for its chief amusements gambling, drinking and
frequent affrays, it is now a growing town, with
signs of social and business reform. Some of the
mines at once "struck it rich," as the phrase goes,
and are exceedingly prosperous, but many more
failed, and the town collapsed, so that to-day,
although steadily improving, it has not yet regath-
ered a population equal to that of the first year
after the great silver boom.
Our return was by way of South Park, a beau-
tiful grass-grown valley surrounded and intersedled
by ridges rising now and then into noble mount-
ains green with stately pines, except where a bold,
bald peak points skyward far above the timber line.
The country grows wilder as we near the Platte
Canon, and there is a subtile charm about the last
day's ride towards Denver; it savors of a taste of
paradise. The sun hangs low in the horizon as we
near the city, and a golden effulgence streams over
the land, slowly melting into purple, then fading
into shadow and deepening into darkness ; and
night is on.
The crowning feature of all our Colorado trip
was the ascent of Gray's peak, the highest acces-
sible mountain in the United States, and in the
8 THE IvAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
very heart of the wildest and grandest scenery of
the Rockies. Preferring the drive rather than the
newly completed railroad, we started early one
bright morning from Georgetown, through a beau-
tiful caiion and over a winding road between great
bowlders and odorous cedars, along frightful preci-
pices and by the side of foaming cataracts, mount-
ains and snow-silvered peaks ever rising above us
and ever shifting and moving onward as we ad-
vanced. At length we reached the foot-hills, the
stepping-stones by which we climb to the summit
of Old Gray. Now in saddle we follow a trail
which grows wilder and narrower, and then cuts
in zigzag lines across the face of the mountain, up,
up, it seems, to the very skies ; but the peak still
rears its lofty head into regions far above us. The
sun grows hotter and the air colder every step as
we proceed, yet onward we toil painfully and slow,
over a path of broken stone scarcely two feet wide,
and in breathless fear lest some misstep of an
over-burdened horse hurl its rider into eternity;
and oh ! the dizzy glimpse into the far-off valley
below ! After hours of climbing we reach the last
zigzag and turn a short corner upward at an angle
seemingly almost perpendicular, and the summit
is ours ! Overcome by fatigue and exhausted from
the rarity of the atmosphere at this great altitude,
over fourteen thousand three hundred feet above
the sea, we sink from our horses in an almost faint-
ing condition. After a little rest, however, we
EN ROUTE. 9
rally sufficiently to look about us, and our souls
expand to the majesty and grandeur of the view
spread out before us. The mountain is cone-
shaped and its summit is only about thirty feet
long by fifteen wide. At the very top is a roofless
enclosure built up of rocks to serve as some pro-
tedlion against the piercing winds and blinding
snow-storms that the traveler frequently encoun-
ters here, even in the months of July and August.
Below us on the one hand is a gradual descent of
some five thousand feet, while on the other there
extends a rocky precipice down into space immeas-
urable. In that far-away valley we can see with the
glass what appears to be a tiny lakelet, the head
waters of Grand river, which flows into the Colo-
rado and thence to the Pacific ocean. Below on
the other side a rivulet, formed from the melting
of the eternal snows, trickles out from the rocks,
now swelling into Clear creek, then forming the
Platte river beyond, whose waters empty into the
Missouri,
" Flowing on and flowing ever,"
until finally they reach the Atlantic. Thus we
stand on the very dome of the continent, the water-
shed between the two oceans, the skies above us
and the world beneath.
Extending just to our right is Irvine, the twin
peak of Gray, separated from it by a deep gorge
filled with the snows of ages. Farther off" on the
other hand another hoary head arises almost to
lO THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
our level, and, encircling the valleys between, on
every side there arise peaks on peaks, their snowy
crowns glistening in the noonday sun or purpling
in the dim and far-off distance. Pike's peak is
diredlly to the east ninety miles away; and beyond
it a shimmering light defines the sandy shore of
the waveless prairie-sea. Nearer, the verdant val-
ley of South Park spreads out as a vast velvety
robe of hunter's green, brocaded with light and
shade. To the south arise the Spanish peaks, two
hundred miles away, yet seemingly no farther than
an arrow's range ; while a hundred miles, perhaps,
to the south-west stands the noble Mount of the
Holy Cross, taking its name from the great cross
appearing on its face and formed from deep inter-
se6ling gorges eternally filled with snow. Around
toward the north,
" Like a silver serpent winding
Through the valley to the ocean,"
is a tracery of the Platte river, and over it at one
point hovers
" A soft and purple mist
lyike a vaporous amethj^st."
This we recognize to be the smoke of Denver.
Completing the circle are Long and James peaks
joined by a belt of the silvery summits of the
Snowy Range. No adequate idea can be given
of the grand and glorious scene; no pen can de-
scribe it; no brush can paint it; hardly can the
EN ROUTE. II
human eye encompass a view so infinite in its
variety and so endless in its vast extent. As our
wavering pulses and rapid breathing warn us, the
glory is too great for the earth-born, and with a
sigh we again mount our dispirited horses standing
with eyes closed, heads down-bent and nostrils
distended, trying to feed their hungry lungs on
the needed oxygen. No sense of the magnificence
and grandeur of the view could reach their brutish
brains as compensation for the terrors and fatigues
of the journey.
The descent we discovered to be even more dif-
ficult than the upward trip, requiring constant
bracing to keep in saddle, but fortunately it was
more rapid, and with the darkness we found our-
selves at Georgetown, totally exhausted but en-
riched with a picture that memory will carry
forever.
After a second long stay in beautiful Denver
the waning Autumn signals us to move southward,
for
" The warm sun is failing,
The bleak wind is wailing,
The bare boughs are sighing.
The pale flowers are dying."
In a few days we are at Las Vegas and begin to
see and hear signs of Indian and Mexican influence.
The air is here remarkably clear, as throughout all
the elevated country of the West, and as a conse-
quence distances are very deceptive. Of course
12 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
one of the first stories we hear is that of the man
who, upon approaching an aceqida^ the Spanish for
ditch, took off his boots, rolled up his trousers
and prepared to wade across. On being asked why
he did not step over, as the ditch was scarcely three
feet wide, he replied: "I have been fooled so often
by distances in this infernally deceptive country,
that I can't trust the thing!" Probably he is the
same man who attempted one morning to walk
from Denver out to the mountains before break-
fast, and found to his sorrow, after a fearfully long
tramp in hunger and dirt, that they were fifteen
miles distant. We do not mind a few dozen repe-
titions of these stories, but when they are given us
as a steady diet, a sacred duty that every inhabit-
ant of this country feels bound to perform the first
five minutes after he meets a stranger, they some-
what pall upon us, and a weary look comes over
our faces now whenever any one asks: "Have you
heard of the man — ?" Here we quietly depart
and take a somewhat sweet revenge by telling the
same to the next gringos we encounter, ringing
the changes between this and the mule-reproduc-
tion anecdote. The length of time a man has been
in this country can be easily determined by the
degree of fatigiie that spreads over his face when
this subje6l is broached.
Las Vegas failed to interest us very much, but
Vegas Hot Springs, a few miles up among the
mountains, is a charming resort. There are beau-
EN ROUTE. 13
tiful walks and drives up the caiion and out over
the plains ; and the country about is especially
attradlive to those fond of following unknown
paths on the mesa and the dangerous trails over
the mountains with a sprightly party on horseback.
Santa Fe we visited about Christinas time, and
we were greeted by a light fall of snow, for al-
though far south the elevated position makes the
winters somewhat severe. The town is raggedly
built' of one-story, flat-roofed adobe houses. It is
extremely poor and dirty, but there is a sleepy,
foreign air about it, investing it with interest and
carrying us back through the vista of the centuries
to the time when the proud banner of Castile
floated over her people.
In the still dimmer distance there stood here
the stronghold and chief city of the Pueblo In-
dians, whose domain ranged at that time over a
vast territory extending from the rich valleys of
Colorado southward even into Mexico. After the
conquest and subjugation of the Aztec nation an
expedition was sent out by the King of Spain to
explore Florida, whose unknown lands then ex-
tended from the Atlantic to the Mississippi. The
fleet met with disastrous storms and was wrecked
off" the coast of Texas, and all but a handful of the
command were lost, and only four of these survived
the attacks of the hostile Indians along the shore.
These four, led by Nuiiez Cabega, an officer of high
rank in Spain, wandered for years eastward and
14 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
westward, returning at last to IMexico with won-
drous tales of this people and their rich cities with
houses of many stories, and of their thrift and
dazzling wealth. One of these adventurous cava-
liers traveled again northward with a friar, named
Niza, who brought back still more marvelous tales
of the country; and in 1540 one of the proudest
expeditions ever fitted out for the wilderness of the
New World set out to discover and conquer, in the
name of God and Castile, the seven mythical cities
of Cibola. Francisco Vasquez Coronado was the
brave commander of this noble cortege. With
hearts attuned to joyful measures, banners flying,
bugles pealing, they marched forth into the dis-
tance, up the wild caiions of the Colorado, whose
dark and dizzy depths had never before been gazed
upon by the white man, on to the Gila, and on
across Arizona to this point. Here they fought
and converted the natives by fire and by sword,
and claimed their allegiance henceforth to Spain ;
but the rivers flowing through beds of gold and
silver, the valleys of sparkling rubies, and the
mountains of opals, all these had vanished. Under
the sacred name of Santa Fe the place became an
important shipping point, and in time a proud
city of the Spaniards.
Only an ancient church, a wretched adobe
house, and the wrinkled and unsightly old women
that throng the sidewalks, remain to tell the story
of the grandeur of other days; yet there is an al-
EN ROUTE. 15
luring fascination about its antiquity, and we ram-
ble about the narrow streets and drive out to the
fort, enjoying intensely the cold, crisp air and the
bright sunshine. We inspedl with eager interest
the Mexican relics and Indian curios, and we revel
in the traditions of the far-distant past. Lingering
only long enough to gather up a few scraps of le-
gendary lore, we hasten on southward, longing to
reach the Land of the Montezumas, of which Santa
F^ gives but a foretaste, and whets the appetite for
more.
And now we are on its border, only the shallow,
wide-spread waters of the Rio Grande flowing be-
tween, as we are told that the river flows beneath
the sand, and this we are ready to believe, for surely
most of its bottom is on top. It is a treacherous
stream and frequently changes parts of its course
in a single night. When this river formed the
boundary between the United States and Mexico,
along the whole line through New Mexico and
into Arizona these sudden changes of river-bed
caused much annoyance, for it was often the case
that a village of Mexicans would go to sleep, safe
in their native land, and awaken to find themselves
in the lap of the United States, and vice versa.
Such sudden changes of jurisdidlion at the time,
when the bitter edge of the Mexican war had not
yet worn awa)-, kept the border country in con-
tinual disturbance and ill-suppressed mutiny. Fi-
nally, in 1854, what is known as the Gadsden treaty
l6 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
was made between the two countries, whereby Mex-
ico received nine millions of dollars, at that time
much needed, and the United States became en-
riched by the possession of the southern half of
New Mexico and a large portion of Arizona, the
border-line between the two nations moving south
under the terms of the treaty to the present
boundary.
OVER THE BORDER. 17
CHAPTER II.
OVER THE BORDER.
EL PASO surpasses all of our expedlations of )
the horrors of a border-town. It is desola-
tion, dreariness and dust personified. The hotels,
are vile. Gambling is carried on as openly ana
much more generally than church-going in the
East. We were one day much impressed by the
lofty air with which a man came into the dining-
room, seating himself near our table. On one
side of his plate he laid a large revolver and a
bowie-knife; on the other a bag of jingling coins.
Then he proceeded to give his order with the im-
portance of a lord. We supposed he must be a
revenue officer, or some other dignitary, but upon
inquiry we learned that he was a bunko-steerer or
decoy-duck for one of the gambling dens. These
places are said to realize an income greater than
that of a prosperous gold mine, and with much
less capital. In western parlance, "they make
money hand over fist," and are, indeed, dens of
iniquity.
The town is totally without shade or verdure
of any kind, and the country about is barren as a
l8 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
desert. There is not even pasturage enough in the
vicinity to tempt a venturesome dairyman to settle
here, notwithstanding the adjacent river, and the
fa<5l that the entire supply of milk, except the con-
densed article largely used in this town, is brought
here from a distance by train. As traffic, in the
winter-time especially, is always more or less ob-
stru6led by snows and wash-outs farther north, and
as the trains are often more than twenty-four hours
late, the supply is somewhat uncertain.
The climate is the only redeeming feature of
the place; it is delightful, quite cold in the mid-
winter season, but always bright, sunshiny and
dry. For this we are thankful as we are waiting
for passes, letters of introdudlion, and other neces-
sary papers, before venturing farther south, stran-
gers in a strange land; and we find ourselves fated
to spend some little time here.
Naturally we hasten to visit Paso del Norte at
the first opportunity, a Mexican town just across
the river from El Paso, and connecfled with it by
a tramway. Paso del Norte, or, as its name indi-
cates, the "pass to the north," was an important
fording place across the Rio Grande, a deceitful
river and difficult to cross, long before the railroads
had built up the American town. To us it is fasci-
nating chiefly because it is over the border; and
the witchery of a foreign land is upon us as we
step from the car into the narrow streets of the
quaint little village. It is a mere colle<5lion of
i
OVER THE BORDER. I9
adobe huts lying in a somewhat luxuriant valley
which, during the summer season, is green with
outlying fields of clover and wild-grass, and gar-
dens of vegetables. Its aceqitias are embowered
wi^^h shade and fruit trees, and rich with clustering
vines that yield abundantly, for the sandy soil is
well suited to grape-raising. Great quantities of
purple grapes are here converted into a variety of
wines said to be of the richest quality and equal
in flavor to any of the California wines.
The town seems always wrapped in the haze
of a lazy afternoon. Here for the first time we see
the native Mexican on his native soil. The men
are arrayed in their gay scrapes and wide-brimmed
sombreros ; and the women are wrapped, head and
shoulders, in their rebosas. A few of these poor
creatures offer images for sale, but, generally speak-
ing, the people sit before their mud dwellings
industriously doing nothing. In the little plaza,
or park, found in every Mexican village however
humble, we see groups of men, women, and chil-
dren half-reclining on the rickety benches, and
basking in the rays of the winter sun, or seated on
the scattering grass, gambling at dice. In the old
church we find at work a few elderly women, their
faces as wrinkled, yellow and leathery as the parch-
ment bearing the records of the early days of New
Spain, which for a small consideration they bring out
for our inspedlion. These women are working in
their crude way on the decorations for the altar, in
20 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
preparation for an approaching feast-day. In the
midst is a vessel of a hissing-hot, resinous liquid
which they are blowing through wooden tubes into
branches of cedar, forming bubbles of prismatic
colors amidst the green. The scene is so weird
in this half-darkened anteroom, the faces of the
women so seared and aged in contrast with their
intense black eyes that one almost expe(5ls the
walls to fade into a dismal cavern lighted suddenly
by a sulphurous flame, showing the women rising
to the dance of the witches and chanting:
" Double, double, toil and trouble ;
Fire burn, and caldron bubble."
On crossing the river a fierce-looking Mexican
in official dress and carrying a brace of revolvers
almost as long as his arm, somewhat after the style
of our horse-pistol, entered the car, eying each
passenger, and opening every suspicious-looking
bundle or basket, to the sorrow of any w^ould-be
smuggler. This incident only heightened our
desires to try our own good fortune in attempting
to elude the tariff laws of our country. So, on our
return, the men filled their pockets with choice
weeds, and we made liberal use of every receptacle
that would hold a piece of the quaint pottery we
found for sale in the little den-like shops. For-
tunately we had been warned that the American
officials are in civilian dress, and quietly perform
their duties without making themselves known;
Over the border. 2i
otherwise, some of our party might have had an
experience similar to that of a gentleman who,
having crossed the river, thought himself safe with
his box of smuggled cigars, and on bringing them
out to treat his friends an officer from the corner
of the car quietly requested his company to the
custom-house. This smuggling by means of the
street-car, however, is ver>^ small, the natives doing
their work by fording the river at night, and even
though under constant surveillance they often
succeed in safely landing whole wagon-loads of
contraband goods. At less exposed points along
the river the business of smuggling is said to be
carried on extensively. The excessive rates of
duty on the necessities of life, and the high prices
of home-produ6ls make it a temptingly profitable,
though precarious industry.
The wagons in use, if purely Mexican, are curi-
osities, for they are all carts. They are constru6led
entirely without the use of iron, each of the wheels
being sawed, or hewn from a huge log, through the
centres of which there passes a wooden apology for
an axle-tree. On this rests a square, crib-like bed
enclosed with rough rails. This vehicle, a relic of
early days, is drawn by oxen yoked together by a
crude cross-bar lashed to their horns, and to the
tongue of the cart.
Paso del Norte is the northern terminus of the
Farrocarril Central Mexicano. The constru6lion
of this road was an event of vast importance to
23 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
\ Mexico, conne6ling, as it does, in one continnons
• line the City of Mexico with the northern borders,
I giving an impetus long needed to its commerce
' and making an easy, pleasant voyage for the tour-
; ist, who desires to visit that noble city with its
i relics of a fallen race. This road was built by
American capital and received from the Mexican
government some grants of land along the line,
and promises of subsidies to be obtained from a
certain percentage of the import taxes. This con-
tradl, however, has been a source of discussion
and trouble ever since the first train started, the
government being more generous in promises than
prompt in payment.
Our arrangements are at last completed, and
sufficient funds for the trip exchanged into adode
dollars and City of Mexico bills. This exchange is
exceedingly pleasing to us, as loyal Americans, in-
asmuch as for every good American dollar we re-
ceive a dollar and twenty cents in IMexican money.
Then with no regrets, save the farewell to a newly
made friend, the hedlic flush of whose cheeks we
know will fade before our return, we depart from
El Paso and slowly steam across the river. Offi-
cers enter the car to examine the hand baggage,
but they open the satchels of two only of the pas-
sengers who bear unmistakable marks of being the
"perfec fid" merchants of ready-made clothing,
and who really create suspicion by trying to look
innocent. At the station our trunks undergo a
OVER THE BORDER. 2$
form of examination carried on very courteously,
and then as the
" Golden sun is slowly, slowly-
Sinking in the purple distance,"
we bid our native land good-night, and are fairly
on our way to the Land of the Montezumas.
Through the gathering dusk of evening we can
see on each side of our track a vast stretch of
desert rising into barren sand-hills, and spotted
with deposits of alkalies white as snow. A few
mesquite bushes and occasional yuccas, or ca6li,
are the only signs of vegetation.
Before the advent of the railroads an old wagon-
trail plowed its weary way across these sandy
plains, and the terrors of the trip were subje6ts for
serious consideration in former days when to the
dreariness of the desert were added the dangers
arising from frequent marauding bands of Apaches
who infested this district. Turning from the dark
and gloomy scene outside, and from the shudder-
ing remembrance of tales of the murderous attacks
of these savage Indians, to the bright comfort and
warmth of our sleeper, we find that an animated
discussion is going on between an American capi-
talist and a Mexican trader just returning from a
visit to the States. The question at issue is that
of the continuance of silver currency at the pres-
ent ratio of value, the great depreciation of Mexi-
can moneys being the raison d'' Hre of the argu-
ment. From finance the talk drifted into politics
24 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
and the condition of the present government, then
to railroads, their interests and growth.
For years the only internal communication was
by means of the crude, lumbering carts, or on
horseback, these being superseded by a system of
diligences for passenger travel. In 1837 the first
line of railroad to run from the City of Mexico to
Vera Cruz was chartered; but the grant was for-
feited for failure to commence work within the
specified time. Other grants were issued but the
country was so torn up by constant revolutions and
changes of government that it was many years
before any adlive work was begun. The difficul-
ties of constru6lion, and the immense projedls of
engineering required, also caused much delay ; and
it was not until 1869 that the first branch was
opened, and with a flourish of trumpets; the whole
line was completed and opened to the public in
1873. Other companies soon followed, and within
the last ten years several roads have been com-
menced and completed, and Mexico is now well
supplied with iron roads of travel, intersedling the
border at various points and converging to the
capital city as a common centre.
A long whistle interrupts us here, followed by
the jostle of slackening wheels, and then a dead
stop. Stepping out on the platform we find the
moon has risen and is shedding her glimmering
light over the mud shanties of a village where we
have halted for water. Groups of loungers and
i
OVER THE BORDER. 2$
beggars, in the pidluresque though ragged cos-
tumes of the country, cluster about the train, and
the scene is so weird and strange that one feels
that it must be some stage effect of the ancient
mysteries he is looking upon. In the broad light
of day the pitiable poverty is but too apparently
real, but in this magical light the harsh points are
silvered with a touch of romance. A striking
charadleristic of the country lies in the constant
reminders of the far East. There is an oriental
effe6l in much of the landscape, in the primitive
methods of husbandry, in the flowing garb of the
people, and in their dashing ease in horsemanship;
while the swarthy faces and piercing black eyes
vividly recall the descriptions of the Egyptians
and Bedouins of the Arabian deserts.
26 the; land of the montezumas.
CHAPTER III.
FIRST STOP IN MEXICO.
TTTITH the early morning Cliihuahua, the first
^ ^ city of importance on the line, is reached.
It is situated in a valley enclosed to the south and
east by the embracing arms of the Sierra Madre
mountains, and seems to us to be a well-built town,
with wide, clean streets. Although the larger
number of the dwellings are plain and often mis-
erably poor, one and two-story adobe cabins, there
are also numerous handsome houses of plastered
adobe, as well as many noble edifices built of stone.
The city is in a rich mining country from which
streams of silver have flowed, and at the time of
greatest prosperity it had a population much greater
than at the present day. The houses are all built
in hollow squares about an open court, where we
sometimes catch glimpses of dancing fountains
and brightly blooming flowers, and, occasionally,
of a fair-faced, black-eyed beauty, almost instindl-
ively reminding one of the lines of Byron :
" O night,
And storm, and darkness, ye are wondrous strong,
Yet lovely in your strength, as is the light
Of a dark eye in woman."
FIRST STOP IN MEXICO. 2'J
One rarely gets more than a glance at these fair
donnas, for they seldom appear on the public
streets; but about the station, up the principal
thoroughfares, and in the plaza, can always be
seen throngs of the common people, and men and \
women of our own race are often met here, for •.
there is considerable of an American element in
this place. This fadl is readily discernible at the ■
hotels where our customs have been introduced,
but after a cheaply civilized fashion that still
leaves much to be desired.
The grand plaza, always a very notable feature
in every Mexican town, is surrounded on three
sides by handsome public edifices and stores, and
on the fourth side stands the Cathedral. This im-
posing stnidlure, famous for its magnificent carv-
ings and its architectural beauty, a combination of
the Moorish and modern Gothic, was ere6led when
our Republic was struggling through the first un-
certain years of its infancy. It is of light stone,
with an over-arching dome, and two high towers
offering magnificent and beautiful views. Our
visit was made in the evening when the vesper
bell was sounding, and the scene, half-lighted by
the flickering candles which grew brighter as the
daylight waned, was one never to be forgotten,
with its weird contrast between the gorgeous robes
of the officiating priest, blending with the gay dec-
orations of the altars, and with its pidlure of men
and women, barefooted and in rags, sitting and
kneeling on the floor below.
28 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
The principal buildings of interest, besides the
churches, are the prison and the mint, formerly a
convent, from whose tower Hidalgo, the Washing-
ton of Mexico, was taken and shot by the Span-
iards. A simple monument of white stone marks
the spot where fell this first martyr to Mexican
independence. We are satisfied with an outside
view of the prison, whose gloomy walls and grated
windows remind us of an ugly custom which the
natives of these border states have had of sending
off a citizen to the calaboza on the slightest pre-
tense, not from any intended injustice, but simply
because it was the pradlice of the country. Once
there, he was liable to remain until worn and
"rusted with a vile repose," for justice, like all
things else in this land of ease, moves exceeding
slow. An acquaintance once seeking renewed
health in this very city came very near suffering
from this inconvenient custom, because he had
chanced to be the last one seen to leave a shop from
which some articles were declared stolen. He was
immediately seized by the police, and this surpris-
ing dilemma called forth more Spanish from his
lips than he had ever imagined himself capable of
uttering. This effort, together with the fadl that
the missing goods were fortunately soon discovered,
effected his release without further trouble; and
"he sped on his way rejoicing, and revisited his
friends," as did .^ncas, dismissed by the Sibyl
through the ivory gate, from the nether regions.
FIRST STOP IN MEXICO. 29
Efforts have lately been made to corredl this evil,
however, and minor officials have received orders
from headquarters to treat foreigners with especial
courtesy, and examine into any charges made
against them with particular care.
The plaza is grass-grown and richly adorned
with beds of flowers, winding w^alks, benches and
pillars of white porphyry, the whole being shaded
by overhanging trees. One loves to linger here in
the freshness of the early morning, listening to the
twitterings of birds in the boughs overhead, and
watching the dusky faces of the passers-by, wor-
shipers hurrying to early mass, beggars entreating
alms, fruit-sellers with great baskets of fruit on
their heads, bread-dealers, peddlars and dulce-ven-
ders carrying their wares after the same fashion,
and agiiadorcs filling their stone jars at the central
fountain. In the evening the scene is still fuller
of life and interest, for a concourse of people of all
classes gather here to while away the time and
listen to the sweet strains of Mexican music. Eyes
grow bright under stolen glances and sly hand-
clasps, and in spite of the presence of grim duennas
there is animation and love and happiness here.
The city is abundantly supplied with water by
means of a massive stone aquedudl some three
miles long, and more than a hundred years old.
Near its termination in the city is the alameda^ or
promenade, beyond which a road leads to a suburb
of stately houses and fine, w^all-bound gardens.
30 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
After a few days of sight-seeing about the town
one of our party proposed a trip to the Eulalia sil-
ver mines, and after some discussion about ways
and means we have finally decided to start as soon
as possible after sunrise on the morrow. Santa
Eulalia is about fifteen miles from Chihuahua, and
the rough but interesting ride out over the country
is to be made in a vehicle apparently constructed
long before the invention of springs, and behind
four shaggy but fiery little animals only too ambi-
tious to reach their journey's end. A brown-faced
Mexican is engaged for driver, while an acquaint-
ance familiar with the trip volunteers to be our
guide.
It is a December morning, but it suggests to us
our northern June. Armed and equipped, as well
as may be, for the journey, we are off, feeling very
foreign and very Mexican. As we ride out of
Chihuahua in the glare of the sun there seems a
something almost fierce in the brightness of tlie
morning. In the shadows of the white houses of
the long, bare street it is chilly, almost cold, and
the sunny patches hot by contrast bring one a
grateful sensation of warmth. The great pyram-
idal shadow of Sierra Colonel lies still along the
grass-brown slopes that stretch away in a pleasant
plain to the Nombre de Deos mountains, flaming
red, as they are glowing already in the morning
sun. Sierra Grande, like a mighty sentinel rises
in our rear, bare as the plain from base to crown.
FIRST STOP IN MEXICO. 31
The dusty roadway is straight and vanishes
away beyond the knolls, between which the dust,
stirred up by^ earlier travelers, hangs purple in the
sun. Afar the glinting walls of some white adobe
shine out with a dry, clear light, relieved against
the dull brown, grassy, sandy hills. The natives
tell us that in August these hills are all emerald-
green, but to-day it seems incredible, for the one
great, all-pervading thought is that of the sun,
almost terrible as it searches out even the shadows
in time and lends them a golden color too.
On either hand, as we rattle along, huge piles
of coal-black slag lie like grim ruins of some active
past. Wonder grows upon us as we ride among
these vast slag heaps. It seems impossible that
they are the works of man. Already one is tempt-
ed to conclude that these great heaps that scar the
plain and choke the dry stream-beds are but rem-
nants of volcanic lavas piled away from the roads
by human hands, or slacked and weathered away
by time. Where could it ever have come from?
Was there ever ore enough in all this region to
account for this incalculable quantity of black
cinder? " Well, we are to see after awhile," our
guide says, and so we ride cheerfully along under
the bare, sunny and precipitous crown of Sierra
Colonel.
How balmy and soft is the wind that comes
down from the bare mountains ! Even the sun
cannot rob it of its delightful freshness. To the
32 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
nortli of us is the hurrying rush of the unrestful
world ; there it is the nineteenth century ; here
the only thing to suggest the idea of haste is the
long line of the Mexican Central Railway stretch-
ing like a great sinuous snake along the base of
the far-away hills. We mount a low ridge that
comes down from our sentinel mountain, and here
we stop a moment to rest and listen to the descrip-
tions of our guide who, lifting his hand, points away
to the south and east where rise the Santa Eulalia
mountains. A wide plain lies in between — fif-
teen miles of almost unbroken desert, dusty and
hazy with unfettered sunlight.
There lies the Hacienda IMiiller, a German pal-
ace in a Spanish waste. The house, we are told,
cost one hundred thousand Mexican dollars. It
is adobe for the most part, with incredible mar-
ble front and pillars. We ride near and find six
men on a wheat-stack flat and round as a pancake.
They are tossing the dry chaff" in air to be blown
away by the wind. They work like crazy men,
and, discovering an American thrashing-machine
lying idle under a shed near by, we conclude that
these men are maniacs indeed.
But the distant range of Santa Eulalia attracts
us, and we dash away over the rugged road, having
some thirty miles to ride before night-fall. What
an endless journey it is, with the goal in sight all
the while, and the little black speck on the mount-
ain, side, said to be the main opening of the Santa
FIRST STOP IN MEXICO. 33
Eulalia mines, growing slowly plainer to view ! At
last, after a discouragingly weary ride, we arrive,
hot and dusty, and immediately take to the shade
to cool off, while the gentlemen of the party drink
pulque in evident enjoyment.
Now we go under-ground with the mayordomo^
who is very obliging and seems glad to see us.
Soon we emerge from the long drift which enters
the face of the mountain — emerge after a quarter
of an hour's groping in the dark, with the flaring
torches ever blowing their foul smoke in our
faces — into a huge, high-vaulted chamber which
extends on all sides into impenetrable darkness.
We understand and believe at a glance, by the
impressive vastness of this cavernous hall, that all
the slag-piles seen on our journey had their origin
here, and that in ver>^ fa6l they are the works of
man. It is awful, even depressing at first. So
through a dozen such chambers we may go, if you
will; but only the same vast excavations, dull
walls and fearful silences await us. The very
heart and substance of the mountains seem re-
moved — so vast are some of these mighty caves.
Verily the whole city of Chihuahua was built from
these great mines, famous from ancient times, two
hundred and more years ago. The vast slag-piles
at and about this city are eloquent witnesses of the
vast amount of ore smelted from Santa Eulalia,
and although many attempts have been made by
different companies to recover the silver of these
34 '^HE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
slags they have no vahie above four dollars per ton,
and cannot yet be utilized. The Mexican knew
how to smelt his ore. One need only to visit
Santa Eulalia to see what man will attempt in the
shape of a mine. The ores are lead ores, and have
been mined in vast chambers large enough to take
in the Chihuahua Cathedral, spires off. No one
can help being immeasurably impressed with the
awful immensity of the place. To-day the mines
are little worked, and stand a monument of past
greatness. The whole country about the city is a
grave-yard, with slag-dumps for monuments.
The Real de Santa Eulalia is a rude little vil-
lage tucked into a fold between the mountains, and
composed of adobe huts and haciendas, all one
story, except the ever-present church. The class of
peons here is of a lower order than any we had yet
seen. They are dirtier and darker and more sav-
age in appearance, while the children, running
about in a true state of nature, stare at us too wick-
edly for pure innocence. The mountains for miles
about are seamed with silver, and over two hun-
dred mines have been adlively worked here, many
of them to great depths. They originally belonged
to the Church, and in the early days the yield of
the precious metals was so enormous that with the
proceeds of a small tax on their produdls the beau-
tiful Cathedral we visited yesterday was built, not
to mention other vast extravagances. After the
expulsion of the Spaniards these mines were aban-
FIRST STOP IN MEXICO. 35
doned as exhausted, but it is more than probable
that some enterprising company, probably Amer-
ican, will open up new veins here, and with the
added help of modern machinery will be amply
rewarded for their labors.
The story of the first discovery of this great
wealth of metals is one of romantic interest.
Three fugitives, obliged for the good of their
precious necks to take refuge in the mountain
fastnesses, had finally found safe quarters in a deep
ravine of what is now known as the Santa Eulalia
mountains. Here they one day built a roaring
bonfire, using for supports some of the bowlders
lying about. These became intensely heated, and,
to the surprise and joy of the fugitives, gave oflf a
shining, white metal which they recognized to be
silver. Prospecting, they soon discovered evi-
dences of large quantities of rich ore, and their
fortunes were assured. Pardons and absolutions
were now easily obtained; the mines were opened,
people flocked to them, and the section soon be-
came famous for its wealth of metals.
After luncheon, taking horses, we canter up a
sinuous path for a favorable view of the surround-
ing country. Onward and upward we wind and
climb by a narrow trail which suddenly turns off
to the left, and we find ourselves on the edge of a
wild precipice. An old adobe house stands here
clinging to the bleak terrace, and now our guide
informs us that this is the entrance to the San
36 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Domingo mine, from which the wealth of a Croesus
has rolled forth. We only see a b'ick hole in the
solid rock. But turning to the valley we have a
view inexpressibly beautiful and grand. There are
ranges of mountains, multitudes of peaks, and
glimpses of tangled valleys enveloped in an atmos-
phere almost opalescent with shining light. Over
our path the mountain towers with a darkling
frown. It is nature in her wildest mood. Yet
such is man, and the heart of man, that from all
this grandeur we turn with a longing glance
toward this dark hole leading into the inner
depths where millions lie hidden. So numerous
indeed are the tales of wondrous wealth here that
we are getting a touch of the mining fever, though
not in a degree likely to prove fatal.
And now, late in the afternoon, we ride toward
the city of Chihuahua, and see from afar the spires
of the Cathedral lifted above the hazy plain, and
reddening in the evening sun. This is the Orient
now, and the tropical splendor of the south as
well. From the Nombre de Deos mountains to the
Sierras on the west, every peak and rugged crown
aloft seems all aglow with fire, while the nearer
heights of Sierra Grande and Sierra Colonel are
flushed with light, with both their tops wrapped
round with rosy flame. The way is long and
rough, and with the gathering darkness we look
wary and ill at ease, seeing real or imaginary dan-
gers beyond every curve, the more so because of
FIRST STOP IN MEXICO. 37
the stories, which one of our company persists in
telling for our amusement, of the banditti once in-
festing this country and even recently attacking
belated travelers. And so, worn and weary to the
soul from excitement, anxiety and fatigue, we wel-
come the sight of the Cathedral towers with feel-
ings akin to those with which a pious Mohamme-
dan pilgrim hails those of his sacred Mecca. The
city is bathed in the light of the full moon, and
all things are silvered and purified in her blue-
white rays ; and we gaze long and fondly upon
the beautiful scene, knowing this to be our fare-
well, as with the morning we are again to travel
southward.
1 '1 ^ ^. ^^ ^
1 ■:2: <J -J J i)
38 the; land of the montezumas.
CHAPTER IV.
ZACATECAS.
AGAIN we are traversing broad plains that
^^^^ stretch out to meet the sky on every side,
fringed over against the horizon with purple peaks,
" Far vague and dim,"
ever shifting and changing, now falling into low,
rolling hills, now rising in snowy crests faintly
luminous in the distance. The strong Egyptian
chara6ter of the country and of the people con-
stantly impresses one, and brings to mind the
myth of the Lost Atlantis.
Much of the land is brown and arid at this
season, and the herbage is coarse and unattradlive.
The cadli increase in size and prevalence as we
approach the tropical regions, and whole forests
of hideous, repellent overgrowths frequently sweep
past. But there are miles of rich fields also,
which by irrigation yield, in this land of perpet-
ual spring, two full crops a year. These are the
haciendas, or ranches, vast estates sometimes con-
taining two hundred square miles of agricultural,
grazing or mineral lands, properties ducal in extent
ZACATECAS. 39
i
and value, for the wealth in Mexico is in the hands
of a comparative few, while the great part of the
population is too miserably poor to hope or even to >
wish for more than a bare subsistence.
Universal suffrage and popular ele(5lions are a /'
farce, and as yet altogether impossible, the affairs j
of government being determined by the party in(
power, and carried on pradlically by military au- |
thority, even in these times of peace. The thriv-
ing, prosperous middle class, which makes up the
larger number of the inhabitants of most coun-
tries, and which is the ruling power in the United >
States, is here almost a nonentity. This fa6l is due
somewhat to the system of taxation in Mexico,
which imposes a levy on merchandise, rather than
on land and dwellings. Houses not occupied, or
lands not under cultivation, are exempt, while
merchandise is taxed by every state through which
it travels. Then, too, the land granted in large
trails by the Crown after the Spanish Conquest,
has come down from generation to generation gen-
erally undivided and seldom changing hands. The
owners of these immense farms rarely live on
them, generally having palatial residences in or
near a city, and entrusting the management to a
superintendent whose house, together with a mis-
erable little village of adobe huts for the peons, or
laborers, occupies a part of the estate. Sometimes,
however, the owner lives in the midst of his miles
of land, a supreme ruler of a little world of his
40 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Own. His handsome villa is condu(5led in courtly
magnificence. Masses of flowers, the songs of
birds and the music of the voice and guitar lend
their beauty to the charm of culture and refine-
ment, while riding, dancing, and the ever-present
cigarette, add gayety and amusement — a life com-
plete in itself and entirely isolated from the out-
side world. It is a sort of feudal community, little
less than serfdom, for the peons are pradlically in
a state of bondage for debt, although these poor
laborers have the right to sele6l their own masters.
In the event of dissatisfadlion they may change
their allegiance and sell their service, and that of
their families, to any one who will pay the sum
they owe to their last employer. Yet their attach-
ment to the soil of their native villages, much of
which they have with them always, is so great that
they seldom change masters.
It is with great difficulty that laborers can be
found to work for any considerable distance on the
railroad beds when in process of construdlion.
They can only be persuaded to do so by allowing
! their families to accompany them, a similar priv-
ilege to that granted by the government to the sol-
diers when on the march. There are other strong
attachments among the poor people, causing great
annoyance to railroad officials : the lower orders of
peons require to be carefully watched in order to
keep them from appropriating anything they can
'lay their hands on, even to the iron couplings;
ZACATECAS. 41
and trainmen are said to be held responsible for
every link, bolt, or burr on their trains in order to
keep them on their guard sufficiently to prevent
their trains from becoming totally disconnected.
We were, in some instances, an hour in cross-
ing one of these estates by rail, where we saw men
raising water from wells or reservoirs into irrigat-
ing ditches, or at work in the field with a primi-
tive wooden plow, just as might have been seen in
Egypt a thousand years ago. The crowds of beg-
gars that gathered around the train wherever we
stopped, some of them horribly deformed or cov-
ered with leprous sores, also brought to mind the
interesting book-trip up the Nile that Warner has,
given us.
The pi6luresque is everywhere present, even in |
spite of the poverty. The Indian woman wrapped/
to the eyes in her blue rebosa, the fruit-vender with \
his gay serape and wide-brimmed hat surmounted ',
by a great basket of richly colored fruits, the pass- 1
ing horseman with his silver-buttoned leggins,
and spurs, and short-braided jacket, and his ele-
gantly saddled steed, the numberless babies swathed
in their mothers' rebosas, these to us are all novel
and full of interest. The landscape, however, has
ceased to be inviting, for all day long, and still
again on the morrow, there is nothing but the same
vast expanse of table-land. At length, to our pleas-
ure, the road makes a detour and enters the rough
country about Zacatecas.
42 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
We are now called to a point of observation on
the platform and we find that the scene has changed.
From the dull monotony of the plains we have en-
tered upon a bit of glorious mountain country,
recalling our most extravagant memories of the
Rockies, only that the cadli, the yucca and the
mesquite take the place of the noble cedars and
pines of the Colorado mountains. Circling dizzy
curves, climbing steep grades, and whirling through
water-washed caiions, we come in sight of Zacate-
cas, the highest city on the road, having an alti-
tude of nearly eight thousand feet, and so closely
environed by the mighty mountain cliffs of solid
rock that one wonders how its seventy-five thou-
sand people can get air and food enough to sustain
life. Water is so scarce as to be a luxury, and
during the long, dry months of the rainless season
it is sold at a stated price per barrel. No system
of drainage here is as yet possible.
It seemed that every able-bodied man, woman
and child of this city, and certainly every infant in
arms, was about the station, sitting on the over-
looking ledges, huddling together along the narrow
defile through which the trains come and go, and
standing in motley throngs wherever opportunity
favored, not in honor, however, of our arrival, as
one of our company suggested, but to see off a
train-load of their friends and relatives just start-
ing on a pilgrimage to the shrine of some neigh-
boring city. To many of them this was their first
ZACATECAS. 43
ride on the Farrocarril, and it was a great event for
them, as well as for their friends who watched them
start — a great, mixed mass of humanity, for the
most part wretchedly poor and in rags. They had
commenced to disperse as we alighted from our
coach, yet it was with the greatest difficulty that
we made our way through the throng to the tram-
way that was to take us to our stopping-place.
Street-cars are a great institution in Mexico.)
There are always two grades of cars, a first-class
and a second-class, each drawn by mules, the sec-
ond-class car painted green and running about half
a square in advance of the yellow, or first-class car.
The fare on the latter is about double that charged
on the former, first-class fare in the city limits be-
ing generally a medio^ or six and a quarter cents ;
sometimes a ;r«/, the English bit, is charged, and
for long distances, two reals. Before learning the
rules of tramway-travel we had, on one occasion,
a rather laughable experience, for we had entered
the green car, this being undoubtedly the better
suited to our experience, if not to our tastes.
There were men of the roughest class, all smoking
their cigarettes, women with their baskets of
clothes or of goods for the market, not to mention r
their babies in arms, nor their ragged children be- J
side them. One of these, a wag of some ten years, '
began to remark about " los americanos^'' in such
way as to bring laughter from all of the Mexicans,
in the car. This, together with questioning looks
44 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
turned upon us, gave us to understand that some-
thing was wrong, although it was some time before
we could be made to appreciate the situation.
Finally the truth dawned upon us, and, to the
amusement of the other passengers, we alighted
■ and took our places in the yellow car following,
where we found a very different class of people.
The Mexican, with his trace of the chivalric blood
of Spain, does not lose his politeness, even in a
street-car, always rising to give a lady a seat, and
frequently stepping from the platform to gracefully
help her on or off.
There is a somewhat unique line of cars run-
ning through a narrow gorge from Zacatecas to the
suburban town of Guadalupe, about four miles dis-
tant, and so much lower that the cars run there by
gravity, mules being used on the ascending trip
only. Many of the men doing business in the city
have their homes there, because of the purer air
and the more healthful surroundings, consequently
there is a great deal of travel between the two
places, and the line is a well-paying one.
( Zacatecas is a busy, thriving city, and its nar-
row, tortuous and irregular streets teem with ani-
; mation. Its principal interests lie in the great
j silver mines, some of which are exceedingly rich ;
1 but it has also a commercial importance as a dis-
/ tributing centre for the whole surrounding country.
■ Of course our first visit was to the Cathedral, for,
as in all Catholic countries, the Church in Mexico
ZACATECAS. 45
has absorbed much of the wealth, and even amidst j
the most abject poverty it has found means, not!
always as divine as that by which Moses caused
water to flow from the dry rock, but means suffi-
cient to extradl streams of gold with which to eredl
stately edifices of her power. In the name of the
Church and of Castile the first great conquest of
the country was made, when the Cross, side by
side with the proud banner of Spain, was carried
through a scene of carnage and murder, until
finally planted on the ruins of the empire of the
Montezumas. At the point of the sword, and
through torture by fire and the rack, the natives
were brought into a semblance of Christianity,
although at heart they are still as pagan as when
they worshiped their idols of stone, and sacrificed
human viclims on the altars of their gods. In
exchange for their rude images the Church gave
them the crucifix and the statue of the Virgin, and
for their bloody sacrifices she gave them the Mass,
but she left their untutored minds and hearts in
ignorance as deep as in the olden days, and to the
superstitions of the ancient Aztecs she but added
those of modern Rome.
In the affairs of government the Church no
longer has power, for with the death of Maximil-
ian her control over the state ended. Much of
her property was confiscated to meet the public
demands; the confessionals were thrown open and
the priests forbidden to appear on the streets in
46 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
the robes of their order, but nevertheless they still
hold the gieat mass of the people, as with a rod
of ii.011, to the fornis and ceiemonies of their relig-
ion. Yet in three hundred years they have failed
to eradicate the errors in which they found them;
for no one can doubt, after visiting the churches
of Mexico, but that heathenism, idolatry and rank
superstition remain as before, the forms only being
changed. The old love of pomp and display is as
strong as in the days when Cholula instead of
Rome was the sacred city, and the pagan spirit
still taints the festivities of their religion. One
ceremony truly unique is thus described by Ober:
"I witnessed several festivities while in the
countr}^, but none seemed to me more grotesque
and curious than that of Good Friday, when a
final disposition was made of the arch-traitor Ju-
das, against whom the IMexicans seem to have a
special spite, and wreak their vengeance upon him
in a number of ingenious ways. All day long the
men are parading the streets with effigies of the
betrayer hanging from poles, and hundreds are
sold, especially to the children who blow up these
images with a gusto and delight only paralleled
by our small boy on the Fourth of July. Each
image, made of papier-mache^ is filled with explo-
sives, and has a fuse like a firecracker, and is
touched off by the juveniles amid great rejoicing.
The thing culminates at evening, when great Ju-
dases are hung up at prominent places, generally
ZACATECAS. 47
at the intersection of the streets, and exploded in
the presence of delighted crowds. Then, also, the
bells in the towers ring out their chorus of rejoic-
ing, and a peculiar apparatus, also in the cathedral
tower, makes a loud, crackling noise, which the
crowds understand well means the breaking of the
bones of the thieves on the cross."
The same writer quotes the Spanish proverb:
" Tras la cms esta el diablo'''' (the devil lurks
behind the cross), and he goes on to say, "nowhere
is this more true than in Mexico." Indeed, one is
constantly reminded of it when so many crimes
are committed under the permission of a power
that sells indulgences, and grants immunity from
danger to the poor peon who will pay his scanty
tlacos for the blessed wafers, which we very fre-
quently see them wearing on their pulsing temples.
These religious delusions have the appearance of
pieces of colored court-plaster, and before learning
their significance we supposed it to be a style simi-
lar to that which raged in England during Queen
Elizabeth's reign, and which even in our own day
is sometimes indulged in, on a smaller scale, by
the affected. How happy would we be if such
additions to the toilette would only ward off all
dangers of plague, famine and disease, as the
poor, blinded peon is made to believe when he
wears his colored wafers blessed by the priest.
Talking of these things, fortunately in a lan-
guage the natives could not understand, we toiled
48 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Up to the Spot where stands the noble Cathedral of
Zacatecas, on a point so high that it is the first and
the last thing one sees of the city. It is of a rich,
brown stone, and very beautiful with the great
masses of magnificent carv-ing on the fagade, which
we stood long to admire, together with the grand
view of the city and surrounding country gained
from the elevated position of its portals. The in-
terior is almost startling from the prevalence of
white and gold in the decorations, a combination
doubtless very beautiful in the eyes of the native
worshipers, but unpleasant to the more refined
tastes that prefer the simplicity of quiet elegance
to the gaudy effects of strong contrasts in colors.
From the small chapel on the summit of the
Biifa a still more extended view is obtained of the
entire valley enclosed by rolling hills which rise,
bleak and barren, into a spur of the Sierra Madre
mountains. "This hill is curiously composed of a
variety of igneous rocks lying in close contiguity,
and the geological formation of this secflion," says
Humboldt, "somewhat resembles that of Switzer-
land."
We visited also the State House, the market,
and the mint which is second only to that of the
City of Mexico in its coinage, leaving the mines
and various other places of resort for another day's
ramble.
With renewed energies on the morrow we
sought the mines, of which there are many in and
ZACATECAS. 49
about the city, although they are not as extensive
as others in the state of Zacatecas, which is one of
the oldest mining distridls in the country and very
rich. The largest mine in the city is the San Ra-
fael; and the oldest is the Cortes, about two miles
away, and was discovered not many years after the
great general, whose name it bears, had burned his
ships behind him, and with his little army of in-
trepid adventurers had conquered an empire.
The descent into most of the mines here is
made by means of a series of ladders, and it is with
considerable hesitation that one trusts himself to
go down into the mysterious depths of the yawn-
ing pit, with the crowds of brigandish-looking
workmen moving about here and there in a little
circle of dim, wavering light beyond which reigns
the blackness of darkness. A trusty escort, how-
ever, and the polite and apparently sincere reassur-
ances of the guide, revived the waning courage of
one of the gentlemen of our party, and down, down
he clambered into the bowels of the earth.
The labyrinth of galleries and tunnels extends
for miles, sometimes so narrow that men scarcely
have room to pass with their loads of ore, and often
so shallow that they are compelled to crawl upon
their hands and knees as they work into their
leads, breaking the rock and carrying it either on
their backs or by burros to the main shaft, whence
it is hauled out and taken to the redu6lion works.
There was opportunity only for a cursory glance,
50 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
for both time and desire combined to press our
companion to tlie surface, after a brief experience
in this dungeon of discomfort and danger. Verily
life must be a burden to these poor peon miners,
who spend twelve hours a day in these dismal
caves where nature has hidden her treasures, delv-
ing with pick and spade, and scarcely ever seeing
the golden sunlight, which seemed to us never to
shine with such glorious radiance as when at last
we were safe returned from this mouth of darkness
to the bosom of a brighter scene.
\
A MEXICAN RESORT. 5 1
CHAPTER V.
A MEXICAN RESORT.
/^NWARD we sweep through the ragged hills
^-^ to the widening valleys, broad meadows and
cultivated fields of the state of Aguas Calientes,
onward to its capital, whose bubbling springs of
hot water from nature's fountains give the name to
both the state and the city. The reputation of this
place as a delightful resort, pleasantly situated and
famed for its salubrious climate, had induced us
to arrange for a considerable stay here. And,>i
although the narrow, unattra(5live streets througn
which we passed for a considerable distance, od
the way from the station to the hotel, promised
poorly, we at length reached the better portion
of the city, opening out into the beautiful plaza.
Overlooking this is our posada^ a quiet Tiotel, in
which we are well satisfied to settle down for a
rest, and for an opportunity to study to advantage
both the people and their language.
The Plaza House _is a large, one-story adobe
building, entered through an imposing-looking
gate and archway into an open court decorated
with shrubbery and flowers, and surrounded by a
53 THE I.AND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
broad gallery. On tliis each suite of rooms opens,
ours consisting of one large chamber on the court
and two inner rooms with small, heavily grated
and shuttered windows looking out on the street.
They were pleasantly furnished with antique dress-
ers and brass bedsteads. Because of the danger
of vermin in this semi-tropical climate and sandy
soil, iron or brass bedsteads are universally used
by the better classes, while the very poor are glad
enough to get a bed of matting to sleep upon.
The service of the hotel is good, but the method
of calling for attendance by the clapping of hands,
instead of ringing a bell, seems oriental in the
extreme.
r Although the nights are cold in this high alti-
tude, especially in these thick-walled, high-ceil-
1 inged adobe houses, there is no place whatever for
I fire in the rooms, except in the great brick range
of the culinary department. Mexicans have a
■ prejudice against the use of artificial heat in this
! climate, and not a fire-place, other than for cooking
purposes, did we see in the Republic, unless in the
far northern states, or in the homes of foreigners.
Xhe pr^Dprietor of the Plaza is an American, but
/the mozos^ or servants, are all Mexican, and the
/restaurant stri<Slly so. Everything is served in
courses, no two dishes at a time, and an ordinary
Mexican dinner has fifteen or more enlradas. Soup
comes first and is generally good, then the meats,
and so on through a variety of dishes mostly un-
A MEXICAN RESORT. 53
known to American mcnus^ and often so hot with
chile ^ a Mexican pepper, as to be unpleasantly sug-
gestive of fire and brimstone ; while chile con came,
a sort of larded hash compounded of many meats j
and chile, was first used, according to Mexican '
mythology and our confirmed belief, on the tables
of the gods of the under world. Very fair bread, or !
a variety of breads, pafi^ pan diilce, pan moreno^ is i
served mostly in small loaves, and generally must
be eaten without butter, as this commodity is al-
most unknown in Mexico. An apology for butter
may sometimes be obtained, if specially ordered, at
the City of ]\Iexico hotels, although one would
hardly recognize it as such unless he were told.
It is perfectly white, hard and cheesy and always
unsalted. On learning the Mexican method of
churning we did not wonder at the quality, nor at
the scarcity of the product. The milk, more often
from the goat than the cow, after souring, is boiled.
It is then placed in a pig-skin and fastened to the
back of a burro and this unfortunate animal-churn
is driven about until the butter comes. After very
slight working it is made into rolls, wrapped in
corn-husks, and sent to market. The Mexican
waiter has a very pretty way of serving his butter :
he presses it into little shell-shaped pieces, arranges*
them about the edge of a dish containing dainty i
red radishes, and then tenderly places the group;
in the centre of the table, evidently intended more;
for ornament than use. ■
54 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
The tortillas are a stridlly national kind of bread,
and every-wliere abound. Indeed, the women of
the lower orders, young and old, seem to spend the
greater portion of their lives in making these
wafers. They are a sort of thin cake about the
thickness, consistency and color of ordinary wrap-
ping paper, made of Indian corn that has been
soaked in lime-water, then ground by hand between
two stones, patted into little cakes and finally
baked. Nothing more absolutely tasteless can well
be imagined ; however, if they were salted, but they
never are, and served hot, which is out of the ques-
tion, and could be eaten with good butter, which
is impossible, they might be passable eating, espe-
cially to one fond of the corn-dodgers of our southern
states. They are believed to have some nutritious
properties, and are the main diet of the peon, who
uses them for food, plate, and spoon, placing on one
tortilla his mess oifrijoles^ or native black beans,
rank and greasy with rancid lard and red hot with
chile, while with another tortilla he dips up his
scanty portion, and then eats his dishes.
What a labor-saving custom for woman!
If one wishes any deviation from the regular
bill-of-fare, or wants anything served in a manner
different from the usual custom, it is a serious mat-
ter not to be able to speak the language of the coun-
try, for none other is understood by the mozos.
One day a party of gentlemen, who had just
arrived, wished their coffee hotter than the waiter
A MEXICAN RESORT. 55
had brought it. They tried by the aid of gestures
to make the matter plain, but in vain. Finally,
after repeated efforts, the happy remembrance
came to one of them that caliente means hot^ this
much Spanish having been learned from the name
of the city ; and with a gusto he announced to the
amusement of all in the room that they wanted
their ''''cafe inferno caliente^ The mozo under-
stood at last, and hastened off amidst the laughter
of the company, returning in due time with the
coffee, pot and all, so hot that the gentleman soon
found to his sorrow that his fingers were " tJiferno
caliente^'''' and another laugh rang through the
room, to the delight of the mozo especially.
The town we found to be very interesting and
quaint. The houses are generally one story adobe,
built in the usual hollow square, and often frescoed,
or stuccoed in bright colors, inside and out, only
the more pretentious buildings being of stone.
All windows opening on the street are barred by
iron gratings, this being their only means of pro-
tecting them without shutting out the light, until
the recent innovation of glass. Even now many
of the poorer houses have no such things as glass
windows. The plaza is a delightful spot, shaded
with tropical trees, musical with tinkling fountains,
and bright, even in December, with roses and
geraniums, which, in this land of perpetual spring,
are never seared by the blighting breath of frost.
Banks of delicious violets refle(ft the perfedl azure
56 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
of the cloudless sky, and fill the air with a divine
fragrance. Numerous cries in tones varying from
the deep bass of the organ to the high treble of
the flute, cries oi '■'■aloudas^ dulce a/oudas,^^ or^ as
the peons call it, "«-/(9z^-5," yelling it out at the tops
of their voices after the fashion of the American
newsboy, greet all comers. This call is intended
to suggest a n iced cr eam, offered for sale about the
plaza. It is made in small tin boxes and frozen
with ice made by pouring water into troughs cut
in the great, fleshy leaves of the maguey. This
huge plant contains a large amount of volatile oil,
which evaporates so rapidly that, during the cool
nights, it will congeal small quantities of water
into strips of solid ice. Thus, surrounded by a
scene almost tropical, we are refreshed with iced
creams frozen by one of the native plants ripened
under the fiery rays of the almost tropical sun.
In the centre of the plaza stands a lately re-
newed monument bearing the date of the founding
of the town, 1548. This mark of antiquity does
not surprise one, for the place is as lifeless as it
is old, and business has surely long been dead, and
only waiting for a decent burial. Even the com-
ing- of the railroads has failed to renew life in the
old body of the town. The only evidence of vital-
ity on a week-day is the mcrcado de frntos^ where
men and women, shrivelled and looking aged
enough to have been among the first settlers, have
great quantities of fruit for sale, all remarkably
A MEXICAN RESORT. 57
cheap, delicious oranges being only one centavo a
piece. This market we visit every day to buy
fruit and pradlice our newly acquired and meager
Spanish. On Sunday the plaza del mercado^ or
large market, is an interesting place, as the Mexi-
cans and Indians for miles about bring here their
fruits, vegetables and all kinds of wares. Each
seller squats himself on the ground by the side of
his little pile of stock in trade, crying for buyers,
in corrupted IMexican Spanish. Vegetables and
fruits of all kinds, as well as household furniture
and wearing apparel, and a great variety of un-
glazed and rudely decorated pottery, all shapes and
sizes, from minute kitchen utensils to great can-
teens large enough to hold water sufficient to carry
one across the desert to Guaymas, are here offered
for sale. These canteens are of a porous ware, per-
mitting constant evaporation, and serve to keep the
water cool.
There are many beautiful churches here to
visit, one facing the plaza across from the hotel,
having nine bells in its tower, one of which con-
tains, as our guide informs us, thirty-six thousand
dollars worth of silver. Whenever it sounds, the
poor peons, with heavy burdens on their backs,
stop and take off their hats and pray in supersti-
tious awe, and then stagger on under their loads.
It rings the morning matins and the evening ves-
pers, ever thrilling us with its rich and far-rolling
resonance.
58 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
" I've heard bells chiming
Full many a clime in,
Tolling sublime in
Cathedral shrine ;
While at a glibe rate
Brass tongues would vibrate ;
But all their music
Spake naught like thine."
Also overlooking the plaza is a militar}'^ post
whose guard frequently changes with a great
clatter of arms to the musical call of the bugle,
which is sounded outside of the guard-door, and
again in the court, growing softer and softer, and
gradually dying to an echo as though an army were
marching away in the distance.
The serape facftory is a place of industry giving
work at very low wages to a considerable number
of Mexicans. The wool is carded, colored and
woven into the serape, a kind of shawl which is an
essential part of the male attire, by means of a
1 primitive hand-loom, manual labor being so cheap
!i here that the introduction of machinery has proved
il to be far from remunerative. Ordinary laborers
' rarely receive more than twenty to fifty cents a
day, and a large part of even this meager income
: is squandered on pidque and tobacco. Because
they can live in their wretchedly poor way on
almost nothing, it never occurs to them to lay up
for the morrow, each day being literally sufficient
unto itself. Whole families live, eat and sleep in
one small room, where a bed of matting, a very
A MEXICAN RESORT. 59
few eartlien-ware utensils, the stone and roller for
making tortillas, and an iron vessel for holding
charcoal, make up the sum total of their furniture.
Tortillas, chile, beans and lard make a hearty meal
for them, the latter so rancid that often when a
Mexican woman is carrying home in a paper the
little supply for the day, one's olfadlories are the
first to remind him of her approach. Grease of
any kind seems to answer their purpose, and since
the introdu(5lion of railroads among them they
have been known to beg or steal the waste from
the car-wheels — that vile stuff whose odor has
become familiar to all travelers as the "hot-box
smell." The peons squeeze out this filthy, black
o^rease and use it to enrich their mess of beans. If
a little coarse meat can be added occasionally they
have a sumptuous meal. But when the prickly-
pear, or timis^ the fruit of the cacftus, is ripe, it
offers to them a feast merely for the gathering,
when the necessity for work is so slight that labor-
ers are hard to find in this season.
Their wardrobes are as poor as their diet. The 1
women wear a cotton chemise with either a woolen j
or a calico skirt, the head and shoulders being '
wrapped in the rebosa, a long scarf of blue and
"white cotton cloth about the weight of gingham.
The men wear trousers and shirts of cotton, and
woolen scrapes, with feet either bare or prote6led
with cheap sandals. To this costume they add the
sombrero with a brim as wide as their limited
6o THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
means will allow, for the peon who can possess
himself, no matter how, of a complete, wide-
brimmed sombrero, either of straw or felt, with a
few tinsel ornaments, is a king among his fellows.
Generally the peon has little more than a cast-off
remnant of a hat with which however he is
graciously polite as if it were laden with silver
braid and buttons and he a caballero^ lifting it to
his fellow-laborer with all the grace of an English
dude. Frequently these poor sons of Spanish
courtesy may be seen lifting their sombreros to one
another, and standing bare-headed in the fierce
sunshine while in conversation before the fountain
to which they have come for water. Even the
roughest banditti of Mexico are said to doff their
sombreros and beg a thousand pardons when they
relieve a traveler of his purse and other valuables.
The Mexican mode of greeting between friends
is not only effusively polite, but exceedingly de-
monstrative. It consists of an embrace in which
each man throws his arms about his fellow and pats
him on the back with both hands. Many a traitor-
ous knife approaches its vi6lim under cover of this
custom, gleams an instant, and then buries itself
to the hilt in the vitals of the unsuspedling. Per-
haps a game of cards has been the cause of the
treacherous assault, or an unlucky serenade under
the window of some fair doncclla. This method
of salutation seems to be a subject of exceeding
interest to one of the gentlemen of our party, who
A MEXICAN RESORT. 6l
is taking elaborate notes and sketches from life
of this attra6live fashion, and will endeavor, prob-
ably, on his retnrn to the States, to get np a class
in some boarding-school, with himself as head
teacher.
Our drives and walks about the town invariably
show us some new phase of human life and char-
acter, and are very enjoyable. Even the meanest
streets are remarkably clean, for there is a law here
and in many Mexican cities, as in Prague of old,
requiring every householder to clean his door-way
and his own portion of the street every morning
before eight o'clock, and this law is striClly en-
forced.
The baths, of course, are a frequent place of !
resort, the better ones being out of town about;
half a mile at the end of the alamcda., a broad drive
shaded by large cotton-wood trees. Along its side
runs an acequia where all the washer- women of the
town gather to do their washing. These poor
creatures kneel or sit on the bank and rub their
clothes in the stream, pounding them between two
flat stones until they are pronounced clean, the .
amola^ or root of the yucca, being used for soap.
After looking at this primitive method of washing
one can but wonder on seeing his laundry return
clean and untorn. The sight of women washing
their garments in the way-side stream is exceed-
ingly novel, but fades into nothingness when the
scenes at the baths meet our astonished eyes.
62 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
The waters from the many hot-springs above
drain into a hollow and form a large pond whose
greatest depth is from six to eight feet. Here the
poor congregate, because the luxuries of the private
bath-houses are beyond their reach. On the banks
they disrobe, often washing out their few articles
of clothing and hanging them up to dry, and then
en cueros, and with utter abajidon^ men, women and
children plunge together into the water. Passing
by this inhuman scene as quickly as possible the
i bath-houses are soon reached. These consist of
rows of cell-like rooms with stone floors and steps
leading down into the bath or spring bubbling up
'from the gravelly bottom. The arrangements,
ihowever, are exceedingly crude, and there are no
'attendants furnished. The water is walled in and
permitted to rise about four feet before being
drained off, the springs varying in temperature
from ninety to about one hundred and twenty
degrees; and one may sele6l the temperature of
his bath to suit his taste. The mineral and caloric
properties of these waters are believed by the na-
tives to have curative powers, especially in chronic
rheumatism and in many forms of cutaneous dis-
ease, and consequently they are much sought by
the afflidled. They are also visited by the well-to-
do people of the town who are in no need of their
medicinal virtues. On leaving this refreshing spot
we find the scene without rather grown worse than
better. Some families, having finished bathing and
A MEXICAN RESORT, 63
partially clothed, are enjoying a siesta on the bank.
Many mothers are tenderly examining their chil-
dren's heads for things too numerous to men-
tion:
" My sooth ! right bauld ye set your nose out,
As plump and gray as onj' grozet ;
O for some rank, mercurial rozet,
Or fell, red smeddom !
I'd gie you sic a hearty dose o't.
Wad dress your droddom ! "
We considered ourselves lucky in having no
need of "mercurial rozet," nor "fell, red smeddom,"
while in this over-fertile country; but without
quantities of flea-powder, life would have been a
burden, for the sands are every-where alive with
piilgas^ each peck of sand apparently containing a
bushel of fleas. It was impossible to take even a
short stroll without gathering up numbers of these
unwelcome visitors, until by the constant use of
pidvo insedios we were able to make ourselves and
our apartments tolerably uninhabitable to these
specimens of lightning adlivity.
A few days before leaving Aguas Calientes one
of our party was fortunate enough to meet with
some Mexican senators, who were also visiting the
baths, and with whom he became acquainted
through his government position. These gentle-
men were very courteous, and expressed them-
selves as regretting exceedingly that they were not
traveling our way. Mexican etiquette seems to
64 I'HE LAND 01^ THE MONTEZUMAS.
require this bit of fidlion, or flattery, and it means
no more than the French bon voyage^ or our Amer-
ican " Good-bye ! Have a good time; take care of
yourself and come home safe!" But with the
usual overflowing hospitality of the country they
offered to place houses, servants and stables at our
entire command while in the City of Mexico. This
liberality, except some letters of introdu6lion and
an invitation to a drive on the paseo behind the
senator's courtly and spirited span, was politely de-
clined; but it was a pleasant incident in our stay,
and added another to our many regrets in bidding
adieu to this quaint old place.
BY DILIGENCE TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 65
CHAPTER VI.
BY DILIGENCE TO SAN LUIS POTOSI.
A SHORT run brings us to the little city of
^^^ Lagos, so old that the lakes which once lay
round about, and from which it takes its name,
have all disappeared. A river, furnishing the
motive power for a large cotton-fa6lory and also
the needful supply of water for the inhabitants,
flows through the town which indolently pushes
its way upward to the surrounding hills. The
plazas are beautiful with orange, fig, and other
semi-tropical trees. The Cathedral is a magnifi-
cent stru6lure of pink sandstone, with lofty towers
and heavily carved front, showing no signs of its
full century of years. The place is pi6luresque
and has a delightful climate, it being nearly uni-
form the year round.
One of its industries, the diligence lines, run-^
ning from Lagos westward to Guadalajara, and
eastward to San Luis Potosi, has been recently
pushed aside by steam-power and Yankee enter-
prise. They have rapidly given way before the
railroads, and will soon be as little necessary as in
our own rail-webbed land. The fast line to San
66 THE IvAlSTD OP THE MONTEZUMAS.
Luis had not yet been discontinued when we first
visited this part of the country, although the
ahnost completed railroad from Mexico thither
pradlically announced that its days were num-
bered. But it went out with a dash, making its
trip of one hundred and seventeen miles in sixteen
hours. Wishing to examine into its former sphere
of usefulness, as well as to realize the experience
of our ancestors in the days when the irrepressible
Pickwickians staged it over England, we deter-
i mined upon taking the diligence to San Luis
i Potosi on almost the last run of its life. It was a
wild drive behind nine vigorous mules with won-
derful powers of endurance, kept to the utmost
speed by two whippers who constantly urged them
by effedlively aimed stones, and with long lashes
stingingly curling about their ears. In and out of
every town, and past the little hacienda villages, it
was always a mad dash, flinging clouds of dust in
all directions, choking and blinding us, and spread-
ing a gray pall over the already dust-laden land-
scape.
There were but two passengers in the diligence
besides our party, one a coffee-raiser from southern
Mexico, a fair type of his class both in physique
and in dress. He was short and compa6lly built,
with black hair and mustache, complexion some-
what swarthy, with high cheek-bones and with
dark, flashing eyes. His costume consisted of
velvet trousers ornamented with many rows of
BY DILIGENCE TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 6/
silver buttons up the sides which were left open a
few inches above the ankles, showing full inner
drawers of a contrasting color. The short velvet
jacket was buttoned and richly braided with silver,
and the immense gray-white felt sombrero was also
heavily decorated with cords and tassels to match.
Two burnished revolvers and a sheathed knife with
jeweled handle ornamented his belt, and a gay-
colored serape was thrown carelessly across his
shoulders. Yet, with all, he was a good fellow,
only following the customs of his countr}-, and
none the more dangerous because, as the Irishman
would say, he carried his concealed weapons ex-
posed to view. The other passenger was a Spaniard
just visiting this country for the first time. Be-
sides his own musical tongue he spoke French
fluently, and thereby gave us interesting informa-
tion along the way as his INIexican companion gave
it to' him, and he also gave us his impressions of
the New Spain as compared with the Old.
At the dinner-station, where we fetched up so
suddenly that most of the passengers found them-
selves huddled together in the front end of the
diligence, there was ample time given us to stretch
our weary limbs, and to eat a hearty Mexican din-
ner, or as much of it as our American tastes desired.
Then away we started again, with fresh mules gal-
loping most of the way, up hill and down, over a
road that, although generally fair, was sometimes
as rough as clumps, and holes, and rocks, and
68 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
ridges could make it, until with a last spurt we
rattled over the now dark streets of San Luis
Potosi, tired but glad we had come. It has been
said that the Mexicans consider any road good
whose holes are not deep enough for graves and
whose rocks can be clambered over without the aid
of ladders. While this may be an exaggeration, it
is true that many times on this diligence ride was
the remark brought vividly to memory.
With the morrow, after having enjoyed a re-
freshing sleep, we came forth with renewed ener-
gies to find ourselves in the finest Mexican city we
had yet seen. San Luis resembles the cities of
southern Mexico in character and in general ap-
pearance. There is a richness of coloring that is
not to be seen in the northern states. The streets
are well paved and well laid out. The houses are
generally two stories high. There are many fine
churches, notable even in Mexico, and a stately
Cathedral with two towers between which is a
beautiful clock, a royal gift to the city from one of
the kings of Spain. From one of these towers we
obtain a bird's-eye view of the city and surround-
ings. Immediately below is the plaza, among
whose embowering trees are seen bright flowers of
many varieties, a fountain dancing and gleaming in
the sun, about which are crowds of the common
people coming and going, and over all a bronze
statue of the patriot Hidalgo standing on a marble
pedestal.
BY DILIGENCE TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 69
On all sides the town spreads out, with many
church spires, and here and there a fine stone
building rising above the jElat roofs of the houses.
Parks are scattered about, and the shaded alameda
looks invitingly cool in the distance. So, indeed,
we found it on another occasion as we wandered
under its trees out to the shrine of Our Lady of
Guadalupe.
Broad, fertile plains lie beyond, surrounded by
lofty mountains. The picSturesque balconies with
their gay awnings must be tempting places for the
Mexican style of courtship, which consists of sere-
nades and notes passed through the barred win-
dows, happily replied to if a rose is thrown down
by the fair hand of the adored seiiorita, perhaps
the sweeter for a dainty kiss from the red, smiling
lips — a far-away sort of loving hardly to be appre-
ciated in our freer country. Perhaps a bold Romeo
may sometimes climb up to his lady's window for
a warmer kiss than the one wafted to him by a
rose, or there may be stolen meetings in a dusky
chapel where the pious maiden has gone to pray to
the Madonna for her brave caballero and been an-
swered by his immediate presence. Perchance the
rendezvous is the moonlit plaza where, under cover
of the music, the laughter and the babbling
tongues, they wander through a shaded arbor and
repeat their whispered vows. This is the poetry
of courtship and the sweeter for being stolen. Its
pradlical side consists in daily pacing to and fro
70 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
under the window of the fair inamorata, after a
fashion known in Mexican parlance by a term sig-
nifying, in our prosy language, " playing the bear."
Calls at the house must be made also, and if his
suit has prospered he is permitted to see the obje6l
of his affections, and perhaps touch her hand in
greeting, but only in the presence of father, mother
and the entire family, for a Mexican is supposed
never to see his sweetheart alone imtil after the
marriage ceremony has been duly solemnized by
both Church and State. That a union from such
an acquaintance, giving neither party an opportu-
nity to learn the inner life of the other, should
result unhappily is not surprising.
After marriage the barriers are removed and the
seiiora may now walk, ride, smoke cigarettes with
her friends, and almost flirt as she pleases, being no
longer under the ever-present eye of a chaperon,
although more or less carefully guarded by the eye
of a jealous husband, ready enough with the stil-
letto if his jealousy is aroused. These are customs
handed down from the chivalric days when it was
the first duty of man to worship woman, and the
first aim of woman to marry, the only alternative
being the convent.
One morning we met a wedding party, evident-
ly in low life as the entire company were on foot.
In front came a gorgeously robed priest, attended
by his acolytes carrying a banner and cross and
swinging a smoking censer. Next came the bride
BY DILIGENCE TTO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 7 1
and groom, the former in white, her whole face
and form enveloped in the ample folds of a coarse
bridal veil. The groom jauntily held her hand, his
dress being a marvel in its gay colors. Following
them were the bride's father and mother, as we
supposed, proudly conscious of the goodly spe6la-
cle, further enhanced by a little procession of
friends of both parties, all stepping to the merry
strains of a native wedding-march.
Among the very poorest, however, marriages
are dispensed with as luxuries altogether too ex-
pensive. Their meager wages are insufficient to
allow them to pay a priest to perform the cere-
mony, and the couple join hands without his saint-
ly blessing. Noticeable among them is a strange
fondness for their families, coupled with a lament-
able promiscuousness of living, hardly to be won-
dered at when we consider the wretched and
crowded condition of their hovels and the almost
animal degradation of their lives.
The mode of burial among the lower orders of
Mexicans is truly horrifying. They are seldom
able to buy even the very cheapest of coffins, and are
fortunate, indeed, if they can rent one, in which
case their dead is carried in it to the grave and
then removed and laid in its last resting-place,
wrapped only in a winding-sheet. Often their
poverty is so great that not even the rented coffin
is possible, and the corpse is covered and tied to
a chair and thus borne through the streets by a
72 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
little knot of mourners carrying a crucifix and a
few lighted candles for which their last centavo
has been expended.
At one time San Luis was famous for its silver
mines. These, however, have long been abandoned,
and are now caved in. The population and wealth
of the city have decreased ; but its present impor-
tance as a railroad centre promises to bring a re-
turn of its former prosperity.
When the exiled Santa Anna was recalled to
the management of affairs at the opening of the
war between Mexico and the United States, in
1846, it was here that he gathered his forces,
marching northward to Buena Vista, where our
army under General Taylor was encountered, and
a bloody battle fought. Each side claimed the
vidlory, but the pra(5lical result was in favor of the
American forces, who held the field while Santa
Anna was compelled to return to San Luis with
the remnant of his army. It was during this war
that the Texans made their name such a terror by
their reckless bravery, lawlessness and heartless
cruelty. But when is war not cruel? There is a
sentiment among the Mexicans to-day that it would
be an easy matter to conquer the United States if
only the Texans were left out.
San Luis Potosi is still a considerable military
post. The barracks band plays in the plaza several
evenings of the week, and the officers stationed
here are brilliant additions to society and efficient
promoters of the winter gayeties.
BY DILIGENCE TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 73
On the return trip our only fellow-passenger
was a Texan who had come into the country on
cattle business, and who talked of cattle and cattle- |
raising the whole way, numbering even our party
by the head. The little white hacienda villages
which, ghost-like, appeared and disappeared as we
rattled on, were interesting to him only as they
contained well-stocked corrals. The cadus-covered
land, through which we passed much of the way,
was too poor pasturage even to engage his atten-
tion ; and the scarcity of water was a matter of
consequence to him only as it afFeded the business
of the ranchero. He was a rough, hearty, swagger-
ing fellow, a dangerous foe at the gaming-table,
no doubt, when heated with liquor, but safe enough
in a country where pulque is the only obtain-
able intoxicating drink to tempt his untutored
taste.
After a few days of much-needed rest we again
journeyed on, passing through Leon, one of the
principal manufa(fluring cities of the Republic.
Its population is estimated at more than a hundred
thousand, mostly engaged in weaving cotton or
woolen fabrics, in manufadluring leather goods,
and in making boots, shoes, hats and rude cutlery.
From the train only the church spires 'and the
smoke of the mills can be seen, for, as is the rule
over all Mexico, the station is a mile or more from
the town.
74 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
CHAPTER VII.
MINING IN MEXICO.
r^AN it be that we are the same commonplace
^"^ travelers who, only a short time ago were
walking briskly through the busy streets of the
wide-awake, thriving American towns of the nine-
teenth century, sight-seeing and studying humanity?
Surely the Glass of Time has run its sands swift-
ly backward, and, while the little mules of our
tramway are galloping from Marfil around short
curves and up steep hill-sides to the billowy notes
of the driver's horn, we have returned to the six-
teenth century and are entering one of the walled
cities of the past.
The road we have come is alive with troops of
burros and laborers. Mines dot the mountain
sides, and great, walled-in beneficiary works frown
upon us, until at length we swing into the be-
witching city of Guanajuato, one of the greatest
mining centres of Mexico. This interesting city
is made up of three towns builded in narrow
gorges among the hills. The streets are steep,
narrow and winding; and the houses climb up the
rugged hill-sides, one above the other, as a vine
MINING IN MEXICO. 75
clings to the mouldering wall it helps to support.
There is an increased activity among the people,
but it is after the Mexican fashion, indolent and
lifeless. Perhaps it is this paradoxical state, this
apparent ease under burdens, together with their
entire surface indifference to the affairs of life that
makes us judge of the Mexicans as wanting in
industry. Certain it is that we see hundreds of
them bending their backs and staggering under
loads which no American could be hired to carry.
While our workmen are clamoring for shorter hours
and more pay, these poor peons are working faith-
fully, and in the most slavish manner, twelve and
even fourteen hours of the twenty-four for a mere
pittance, ranging from twenty-five to seventy cents
a day.
There are many beautiful residences here, and j
an infinite and novel variety of scenery in the town /
itself, as well as among the closely encircling
mountains. The little plaza is rich in verdure, |
and the market-place, reflecfting the gay colors in ■'
every form of crude combination, is filled with a
heterogeneous mixture of all the commodities of
the country. There is an old church here that
seems to embody in its stately arches, soft tints
and elegant carvings, the spirit of the old Spanish
dominion.
The Castillo del Grenaditas occupies a promi-
nent point in the heart of the city. It is an im-
mense, square, stone building, two stories high,
76 THE LAND 01^ THE MONTEZUMAS.
with walls of enormous thickness. It was origi-
nally intended as a storage-place for grain, but it
lias served a variety of purposes since its construc-
tion. When Hidalgo raised his standard for free-
dom in the country, and marched to Guanajuato,
the whole native-born population flocked to his
cause, untrained and almost without arms, but
brave, confident and determined. The Spaniards,
although scarcely numbering two thousand, en-
trenched themselves in this castle, and by their
superior position and the possession of fire-arms
made a successful defense, until some Indians,
placing flat stones on their backs as shields against
the deadly hail of bullets which the Spaniards
constantly showered upon them, crawled to the
fortification and fired the gates. The Spaniards
were completely routed, and but very few escaped.
After Hidalgo was in his turn defeated, and with
his three companions shot at Chihuahua, their
heads were sent here and hung from the four cor-
ners of this building, where they remained until,
in 1823, ^^^ Spanish yoke was at last broken,
when the heads were removed and given illustrious
burial. The castle is now used as a state-prison,
where we saw the inmates, some six hundred, men
and boys, and a few women, at work at different
trades, weaving scrapes and blankets, and making
boots, shoes, hats, candles, and many other Mexi-
can necessaries.
The principal places of interest are the mines,
MINIXG IN MEXICO. 77
and great redu61ion works, of which there are fifty
in Guanajuato alone. Mining has been one of the
chief industries of this country ever since the
Spaniards gained possession of it, and even before
their invasion the Aztecs had developed and
worked successfully mines of silver and gold, as
well as of copper and tin; and there are fabulous
accounts given of the wealth of the ancient capital
of the Montezumas. It was this treasure that
excited the cupidity of the Spaniards and increased
their zeal in the enterprise of conquering the vast
territory of Mexico. "They suffered from a chronic
disease of the heart," said Cortes, "for which gold
was the efficient and only remedy," and even that
great General himself showed symptoms of the
same malady.
"Gold! Gold! Gold! Gold!
Bright and yellow, hard and cold,
Molten, graven, hammered and rolled ;
Heavy to get, and light to hold.
Hoarded, bartered, bought and sold,
Stolen, borrowed, squandered, doled,
Spurned by the young, but hugged by the old
To the very verge of the church-yard mold,
Price of many a crime untold."
The mountains of Mexico, from the State of
Chihuahua on the north to Oaxaca on the south,
abound in almost inexhaustible deposits of gold
and silver, lead, iron and copper ; while in other
localities are found mercury, tin, platinum, coal.
78 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
and, indeed, every mineral known to science. It
is said of Mexico that the expression "silver
hills " has more than a figurative meaning, and
that the "entire backbone of the Republic is of
silver, with ribs of gold extending deep into the
bowels of the earth."
The Aztecs possessed more gold than silver,
because it was found in the natural state and was
more easily mined; but the principal mineral
wealth at present comes from the silver mines,
richest in the districts of Guanajuato, Zacatecas,
Pachuca, Catorce and Sombrete. The Veta Madre
of Guanajuato and the Veta Grande of Zacatecas
are, next to the world-famed Comstock lode of
Nevada, the most remarkable veins on the conti-
nent.
Millions of dollars worth of silver are exported
every year to Europe, and the entire estimated
yield of the precious metals in Mexico runs into
figures so inconceivably great that the numbered
sands of the sea-shore would be as easy to realize.
Yet it is the history of this country, as of others,
that, so many are the failures and so great the ex-
penses of developing even the most successful
mines, more money has been sunk in the country
than has ever been taken out of it.
The mining laws of the country are simple and
efficient. Commercial Boards, consisting of three
members, are elected by the mine-owners in every
distridl where mines exist. To them all matters
MINING IN MEXICO. 79
of locating mines, and of adjusting disputed claims,
or trouble with land- owners, are referred. When
a lode is struck one person is privileged to take up
two claims, six hundred feet long by three hundred
wide, and two persons twice that amount; but no
one company can take up more than four contiguous
claims on any one vein. The filing of a claim
guarantees the right of possession if the conditions
are duly fulfilled, which require that a shaft be
sunk within the first four months and that work be
carried on thereafter four months continuously out
of each year. In case of failure to follow the re-
quirements of the law the property is denounced,
reverts to the state, and is disposed of at public
sale.
Claims may be taken up on any property where
minerals are discovered, no matter to whom the
land may belong, as titles to real estate in Mexico
only recognize the geographical surface. The pre-
cious metals buried beneath are considered in the
eyes of the law as treasure-trove belonging to the
fortunate discoverer ; and he has the right to pos-
sess himself of any lands positively necessar}- to
secure his prize. If, however, more land is needed
than is adlually required for the sinking of shafts
and for the erection of necessary mining- works the
owner must be reimbursed at a price to be decided
by arbitration. The amount paid for the right to
use the surface in the vicinity of the shaft gives no
title to the land, which reverts to the owner when
the mine is abandoned.
80 THE I.AND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
To encourage the introdudlion of foreign capi-
tal aliens are allowed the same privileges as citi-
zens. But in almost every instance, when foreign
companies have entered upon mining enterprises
here, the necessary knowledge of the habits and
customs of the country, and of the best means of
condu6ling the work, has only been acquired after
bitter and expensive experience. Some of the
great mines of the Veta Madre, running along the
mountains above Guanajuato, are examples of this
fadl. ,;
More than three centuries ago this vein was
discovered, and for a long period of years streams
of silver, almost beyond conception, flowed from
its rich mines. Humboldt estimated that in a single
century, ending in the year 1800, this vein had
produced silver to the value of two hundred and
eighty millions of dollars. Since the above date
an English company obtained possession of one of
the greatest of these mines, and began operations
under a board of dire(5lors living in London. The
superintendents whom they sent out understood
neither the science nor the economy of Mexican
mining, and by extravagant expenditures, misman-
agement, and the introdudlion of heavy machinery
almost the entire capital, some five millions of
pounds sterling, was sunk before the company
learned wisdom enough to place their works in the
hands of efficient managers who were conversant
with the ways of the country. It took, indeed, an
MINING IN MEXICO. 8 1
aggregate loss of over fifty millions of dollars to
cure the English of an attack of the Mexican
mining fever.
In Pachuca there is a colony of Cornish miners
who came to Mexico sixty or seventy years ago.
Some few of them acquired wealth and returned
to Old England to enjoy the fruits of their labors
in peace and plenty, but in general the colony had
made but a scanty living, until a few years since
they made a lucky hit in the Santa Gertrudis.
This mine had passed through many hands but
long ago had been abandoned and denounced,
when it was taken up finally by one of the Cor-
nish miners who formed a little company of his
fellows and re-opened it. Soon striking a paying
vein he sold his controlling interest for fifteen
thousand dollars, while now a single share, or one-
twenty-fifth, is valued at nearly a hundred thou-
sand. The mine has produced upwards of four
millions of dollars, and, besides declaring enor-
mous dividends that have raised from penury to
wealth all those who held to their stock, it has
vastly deepened its shafts, eredled massive build-
ings, and largely increased its working capital by
the addition of all the machinery- and apparatus
necessary for running the mine to advantage.
The Rosario mine of the same distridl is another
example of the fickleness of fortune, of the utter
uncertainty attending all mining enterprises, and
of the wonderful fascination of such frames of
82 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
chance. Previous to its control by the present
management this mine had passed through the
hands of two other companies as a failure, the
second abandoning it within a few feet only of the
marvelous vein from which silver ore to the value
of a hundred millions of dollars has been obtained.
A few years since, as the story runs, all Mexico
was startled at the news that an ancient mine, also
in this secflion, more than a century ago aban-
doned, had been re-opened with incredible success.
Before abandonment it had been the property of
the Cond^ de Regla, a Mexican Croesus, who had
worked in it hundreds of slaves in chain-gangs,
and never allowing them to see the light. At
length, in the depths of despair, these pitiable
wretches and wrecks of humanity fired the frame-
works and perished in the flames. After this hor-
rible catastrophe no miner could be induced to
resume the work, and this charnel-cave, with all
its terrors, soon filled with water. Whether or not
this story gives the true solution of the cause for
abandoning this mine, certain it is that the peons
of to-day, who are working the same vein, have
dug up rust-eaten tools and human skeletons, to
say nothing of countless stores of silver.
The Valenciana, Nopal and Rayas mines are
among the largest in the vicinity of Guanajuato.
The gentlemen of our party visited the latter and
found the trip to be a tremendous undertaking, but
one of exceeding interest. There are three shafts,
MINING IN MEXICO. 83
the deepest of which extends down into the earth
nearly two thousand feet. It is entered by means
of massive steps cut in the solid rock, and one's
courage, as well as strength, is hard-strained on
that long descent to the vein. Even the heavy
timbering of the tunnels and chambers is insuffi-
cient security against the dreadful feeling of op-
pression and fear of being buried alive, or suddenly
left in darkness, deserted by the unknown guide,
and lost in the windings of these subterranean
labyrinths and corridors.
The lighting of the cavern is by means of flick-
ering candles placed here and there on the sidings
and props, or carried about in clay sockets fastened
to the caps of the peons at their diggings. Seeing
them in their dismal chambers, moving about with
their loads and shifting lights, these peons appear
like so many satanic spectres toiling for their
master in his under-ground kingdom. There are
something like two thousand of these laborers em-
ployed in this one mine. All of the work is done
by man or beast, as there are very few steam-
pumps or hoisting machines used in Mexico. The
water is raised from the pits by means of great
skins made into bags and fastened to ropes, and
then hauled to the surface.
The ore is loosened with iron picks tipped with
steel, then wheeled or carried to the main adit^ or
shaft, by hand, the peons often taking on their
backs, from distant parts of the mine, pieces of
84 THE I.AND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
rock weighing two hundred pounds. At the shaft
it is heaped in immense baskets and hauled up
with a sort of windlass run by mule-power. Long
before a tourist visiting this mine has climbed
again the hundreds of slippery steps and rope-
ladders to the outer world he wishes he could
be hauled up in the same way, despite its many
dangers.
The mine-mouths and redudlion works are all
enclosed by high, stone walls, as if prepared to
withstand a siege ; and, indeed, in the earlier days,
when revolution ran riot in the land, and bands of
banditti infested the mountain passes, and robbery
and murder were the order of the day, such means
of defense, well supported by an armed force, was
a necessary precaution. All the work is performed
within closed gates, and the miners are thoroughly
searched before being allowed to pass through
them at the close of the day's labor. These poor
fellows, in an almost pardonable dishonesty, resort
to every conceivable means of cheating their em-
ployers and eluding dete(5lion, often concealing rich
nuggets of ore between their toes, under their anus,
in their mouths, in their hair, and in every possi-
ble hiding-place about their bodies, their scanty
clothing being of little use to them for purposes
of concealment.
Our party found the redu6lion works more in-
teresting and more to their taste than the gloomy
depths of the mines. These are all run by horse-
MINING IN MEXICO. 85
or mule-power, except the Pardo, which is one of
the few mills operated by steam in Mexico. The
method of reducing the ores is by the patio, or
cold amalgamation process, fortunately invented
by a Mexican miner in the latter half of the six'
teenth century. The owners of Mexican mines,
who have reaped enormous fortunes as the dired\
results of this process, could well afford to honor
the memory of the inventor, Bartolomeo Madina,
by ere(5ling to his name a monument of molten
gold and silver ; but such a tribute would be out
of harmony with the ways of the world. Before
the introdudlion of the patio process the Spaniards
had been obliged to abandon many mines, which
were yielding abundantly, for want of fuel to run
their smelting furnaces.
The ore is brought in from the neighboring
mines in sacks or baskets, slung panier-fashion
across the backs of burros. It is then dumped
into the mill, a bowl-shaped excavation, where it
is crushed by a heavy stone wheel hooped with a
thick wrought-iron band made to revolve on a hor-
izontal axis, worked by mules. In the centre is an
iron screen with coarse meshes, and as the ore is
crushed it is constantly shoveled by hand upon the
sieve, which allows the smaller pieces to drop
through into a trough below. From here it is
taken to the grinding-mill and pulverized between
heavy blocks of basalt rock that are whirled about
in a basin half-filled with water ; these mill-stones
86 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
are also worked by mules, unless water is available.
It takes about thirty hours to reduce the ore to a
pulp, and it is then carried in heavy buckets to a
paved court, or patio, from which the process takes
its name. Here great masses of silver mud-pies
are formed, and copperas, quicksilver and salt are
scattered over them and then mixed, kneaded and
trodden in by droves of mules driven round and
round by almost naked peons. They stand in the
thick, amalgamated mud and keep their mules
tramping in ever-varying diredlions to ensure the
perfe6l admixture of the chemicals with every
particle of the ore. The mules, as well as the
peons, are worked in relays, the silver mud being
carefully washed from them when they leave the
pits. It takes about a month of constant tramping
in this way to thoroughly mix the materials. The
entire work is carried on unceasingly day and
night.
When thoroughly amalgamated the precious
mass is taken to deep cisterns where it is well
washed and churned, the silver particles gradually
gravitating to the bottom, and after a few days the
worthless mass of lighter weight is floated off.
This silver amalgam is then placed in a kind of
under-ground oven, covered with a heavy iron cap,
about which hot fires are kindled and kept burning
for several days in order to remove the mercury, by
a sort of distillation process. The mass of pure
silver now remaining is ready for the mint.
MINING IN MEXICO. 87
Although extremely slow and wasteful, the
patio method is the one best adapted to the coun-
try on account of the character of the ore, the
cheapness of labor, and the correspondingly high
price of fuel. It costs on an average about twenty-
five dollars a ton to mine by this process ; there-
fore a vein from which ore, yielding less than
thirty dollars a ton of gold or silver, is obtained, is
not worth working. The great number of peons
employed by the many different mining-companies
here receive their wages on Saturday nights, and
great as the accumulated sum is, it is pra(5lically
all expended before the following Monday, on
pulque, gambling and other unprofitable dissipa-
tions.
Sunday is the great national holiday, and after
mass has been duly attended, the day may be spent
in whatever manner of enjoyment is most pleasing,
or most suited to their tastes and possibilities. It
is the big market-day, and the markets are open
and thronged during the morning. In the after-
noon music in the parks and a bull-fight in the
arena are rival attradlions ; in the evening all
places of amusement are well attended.
88 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
CHAPTER VIII.
VALENCIANA AND BOLANOS MINES.
AS none bnt an experienced miner can make the
^^^^ descent into the dangerous depths of the an-
cient and interesting mines of Bolaiios, and that
of the great Valenciana, the author of this work,
is indebted for the vahiable fadls and descriptions
contained in this chapter to a personal friend, a
pra6lical assayer, who has given many years to the
study of Mexican mines and mining. Therefore,
in his company let us wander again between the
great adobe walls of the Haciendas of Guanajuato.
Properly furnished with a pass in the form of a
note from some one in authority, we apply for
admission at the gate-way of Hacienda Rocha, the
largest of them all. Once within the gates we are
struck with the busy scenes on every hand. We
see the ore being unsacked in the ore-house, ac-
cording to the mine whence it comes, delivered by
mules carrying about three hundred pounds each.
The milling is custom-work, and the miller keeps
a stricft account of every lot, and makes a return
of the silver by assay and contrail. At Guana-
juato the ores come down the mountain-sides from
VALENCIANA AND BOL,ANOS MINES. 89
a hundred mines and prospe6l-pits, and no more
pidluresque sight can be seen than the ore-bur-
dened burro trains filing along some steep and
paved trail, enveloped with dust and ringing with
the discordant shouts of their barbarous drivers.
At the receiving-house the piles of ore are care-
fully marked by means of bits of paper impaled
on sticks stuck in the respective lots, and then it
is taken diredlly to the chilli mills — running round
and round with a slow, grinding motion, and which
are propelled by mules and fed by hand. The ore
is thus reduced to fine gravel and sand, and is then
wheeled away to the arrastras and submitted to
the patio process, a description of which is given
in the preceding chapter.
As no books properly describe the miner at his
work, let us go under-ground and see him as he is.
A mile or two to the north-east of Guanajuato rise
the great walls surrounding the main shaft and
works of Valenciana, the greatest mine in Mexico,
and where every phase of Mexican mining may be
seen. Like some grim fortress the adobe walls
frown down upon us from their buttressed height
of over sixty feet. It is an impressive sight, and
one cannot but realize a sense of the dignity of
this huge establishment, even from without its
walls. Such walls were not raised for purposes of
concealment, or beauty, but for defense in times of
Spanish invasion and revolution. The huge arched
gate-way is opened to receive us ; a train of mules
90 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
comes scurrying and crowding through as we enter.
Our horses keep to the centre of the gate as if they
had the right of way, and the train of mules going
either side is crowded against the walls. The
drivers shout, "Mula! mula!" There is a final
rush, and we find ourselves entering the great en-
closure of Valenciana in a cloud of dust and clat-
tering over the pavements of the portales. We
are met by the mayordomo of the mine, a hand-
some Spaniard, whose gorgeous sombrero has been
replaced by one of straw, and who greets us cordi-
ally as we dismount. A little niozo at the head of
each horse takes him at once in charge ; and at-
tra(5ling no little attention we cross the enclosure,
among the busy ore-breakers.
What a scene for the nineteenth century! Two
hundred men, women and children are sitting upon
the ground among the gray piles of ore, each with
a basket beside him, and with a small hammer he
cracks it into bits of the size of walnuts. Each
piece is carefully inspe(5led; doubtful lumps are
spit upon, and the assorting goes on, the ore falling
either into the basket on the right, or upon the pile
on the left, becoming either first- or second-class
ore according to its fate and the judgment of these
skillful sorters — a most interesting scene, but how
utterly primitive !
Having arrived at the great shaft in the centre
of the enclosure our doubts as to the truth of the
stories told of this vast pit arc forever set at rest.
VAI.ENCIANA AND BOLANOS MINES. 9 1
We walk out upon rude cross-beams and stand
over the centre of tlie shaft. It is forty feet in
diameter and twenty-two hundred feet deep. The
water in the sump is disturbed by a pebble that we
drop, and shines like a silver mirror far below.
The sides of the shaft for one thousand feet are
lined with cut-stone masonry, and the shaft itself
is a great hexagonal prism. Thrust above-ground
this stone-built monument would be the loftiest on
earth, one of the seven wonders of the world. The
under-ground workings are forty-two miles in ex-
tent. One thousand miners are employed, and
although there are three cages and hoists in the
huge shaft, the shift goes to work by descending
the slippery stair-ways of the levels. It requires
three hours for them to reach the lowest level, and
three hours to return again, and they work six
hours; thus the miners spend half of their working
time in going and coming. Since it would require
six or seven hours to lower such a force of men by
means of the cages, this ridiculous method is nec-
essary. It is a pidluresque sight to see the long
line of white-garmented miners entering a cleft in
the mountain-side and disappearing from the light
of day. Let us enter with them.
Our guide is named Hillario, and was so hand-
some and so gaily equipped as he rode along with
us up the mountain that we scarcely recognize him
in his miner's attire, with his clay-colored sombrero
and his waist-cloth.
92 THE LAND OP THE MONTEZUMAS.
Used to novices the miners are prepared to wit-
ness our alarm as we enter the narrow tunnel, and
reach the first descending stairs. Set with stone,
long covered and filled with the mud from many
feet, the stair-way is a treacherous inclined plane,
where the footing is most uncertain and the shad-
ows deceptive. A little bare-legged Indian is our
torch-bearer, the torch being made of a yard or two
of tightly bound cotton cloth soaked in grease and
wound with string into a long roll. Down and
still down we go, slipping, sliding, stumbling on,
now right, now left, now through long, low drifts
dripping and foul for want of air, now across some
vaulted chamber where one almost experts to see
the stars. Suddenly all stand on the edge of a
black, forbidding pit from which projedls the end
of an escalera^ a notched pole, not so common in
Guanajuato as elsewhere in Mexico, the stone
stair-way having replaced it in the larger mines.
Our guide goes first. Hillario is an old miner,
now retired from business and playing the gentle-
man. The little Indian torch-bearer squats at
the top of the pit and holds the torch for us.
Those long accustomed to the greasy escalera, fair-
ly smooth with tallow, are quickly down. Hillario
smiles his approval on such as are able to quickly
follow him, and is greatly amused at the discomforts
and ineffedlual efforts of those new to the mines.
It is a serious question to a novice whether it is
wise to enter a deep, dark hole, the size of his body,
VALENCIANA AND BOLANOS MINES. 93
on a greased pole which is fastened at neither end
nor braced in the middle. Many a tourist thinks
the upper levels are curious enough to engage his
interest, and proposes to remain there until the re-
turn of the more venturesome; but there is no
place to wait in Valenciana. Woe to the man who
gets lost in this great labyrinth and attempts to
move about! The tender-foot had better remain
above-ground or follow wearily and tremblingly
after his guide. We are to be gone three hours
and return by a different way, and no one can stay
behind.
It is a matter of amusement to a Mexican miner
to see the average American attempt to sample a
mine. He himself knows very well how to knock
down the ore ; and he would have you take a few
little lumps of rich specimens and be content, in-
stead of overburdening yourself with widely gath-
ered pieces of indifferent values. It would be a
fool's errand for the tourist to attempt to sample
Valenciana.
No words can describe the uncanny pits and
grewsome pools in the heart of the mountain, in
the labyrinthian depths of this great mine. Here
is a rope-ladder, wet and slippery, dangling into
darkness from a proje6ling beam. "Wlioever thought
of a rope-ladder in a mine, or whoever played Romeo
with a little naked savage for a Juliet, and a tallow
rag for a moon! Ugh! it is enough to make the
stoutest heart quail to think of some of these awful
94 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
cliasms and unholy pits down deep in the bowels
of the earth — but we must journey on. The crown
of the drift is loose, barricaded with staves which
bend with their burden of rock, riflfraflf carelessly
held from falling, here and there dropping a shower
of dry dust, or dripping muddy-red water upon
us. Gnarled, and twisted, and uneven, the passage
winds and sinks, rises and turns. Now we crawl on
hands and knees along a slimy tunnel ; now bent
double we squirm through a dusty man-hole into
a wild, weird world of darkness and uncertainty.
At last we stand in a working-drift and hear the
clinking of the many hammers on the steel drills.
Faint lights glimmer through the stifling mist and
smoke of recent blasts, and the air is oppressive,
for the temperature is over ninety. Forth from
the darkness shine out dimly the naked bodies of
the miners as they labor on. Such human toil!
Alas! was there evermore abjedl slavery than this?
These men receive seventy-five cents, Mexican
money, for a day's work ; the boss miners, one dol-
lar; women, fifty cents, and children, twenty-five
cents. The women's work is above-ground, as
none are allowed in the pits. From childhood to
old age the miner works under-ground while the
sun shines, although he is often irregular in his
hours, and the system of tributers (men who work
by the ton) relieves many, thus affording even the
Mexican miner an occasional opportunity to enjoy
his holiday and his buU-iight.
VALENXIANA AND BOLAXOS MINES.- 95
Finally we are at the bottom of Valenciana,
after a terrible journey, and we sit down to rest.
The great silence is restful to those accustomed to
it, but fearful to the uninitiated. Above us are the
intricate windings of the vast mine, dug by human
hands through the slow-moving centuries. Whole
races of people have lived and died since this pit
was begun, and what have they gained? The
records tell us eight hundred millions of dollars.
Shall we believe this incredible tale? Why not?
These mighty caverns were not dug for pleasure,
and every inch was drilled by hand, no machinery
of any kind being used. The water, which at last
became too much to handle, was lifted in huge ox-
skins sewed into balloon-shaped bags, and pulled
slowly up, a ton at a time, from these great depths,
by whims which were ever in motion, driven not
by steam but by horses or mules.
At Zacatecas one mine has eight hundred
mules ; and with all of them they cannot deliver
as much water as would a two-inch pump working
half-time. From many mines the water is carried
away in pig-skins in living form, left whole and
borne upon the backs of men. Upon reaching the
surface a string, which fastens the snout of the
apparently fat pig, is pulled and the pig collapses,
pouring the water through the snout into a ditch,
over the head of the prostrate carrier. This is a
strange sight indeed to an American, and suggests
the following story told by our miner-friend :
96 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
" Once in a vast mine in western Chilmahua I
was waiting in a drift for the mayordomo to return.
He was to guide me to a certain winze which I de-
sired to sample. Water-carriers passed and repassed
us, splashing along the drift. One little peon of six-
teen years had impressed me by the beauty of his
face and the fine lines and firm muscles of his bare
body shining in the candle-light under his dripping
load. Suddenly there came a prolonged silence, and
then I heard groans in the darkness and the splash-
ing of feet. Soon along the drift came an old man
bearing on his back a form wrapped in a blanket,
and groaning piteously, blood streaming down upon
the old man's white head, as bent and tottering he
passed along that infernal highway. I lived much
in a few moments. I shall never forget the pi(flure;
but such things are common enough here. Our
little water-carrier had climbed out of one of the
winzes with his bag of water upon his back.
Reaching the top of the ladder the treacherous
pig slipped; the band around his forehead caught
him under the chin, and down he fell forty feet
upon the heads of the men below, with that great
bag of water fastened about his neck. As I de-
scended there to sample this part of the mine
some of the ore was yet warm with his blood, and
yet many of the miners near by worked on as if
nothing unusual had happened. ' Have they no
feeling?' I asked Ferdinando. 'Si, signor,' he an-
swered, 'but they get only seventy-five cents a
VAI.ENCIANA AND BOLANOS MINES. 97
day, and cannot afford to stop work; they have
children, signor, and may not have feelings like
other men to stop their labor and their pay.' I
sent some money to the little mangled peon that
he might have attention, and I was gratified to
learn that he was still alive when I left Yoquivo."
With this sad tale let us leave the mine and
turn to ore-values — a wide subject, too wide, in-
deed, for more than a brief mention here. At
Guanajuato the ores to-day average fifty dollars,
Mexican, per ton. Bonanza-leads are sometimes
struck, and yield vast sums in a short time. Cata,
the second great mine at Guanajuato, with a twin-
shaft to that of Valenciana, forty feet in diameter,
has had some remarkable strikes, and is now in
bonanza. We were shown a chamber some fifty
feet long by sixty high, from which six hundred
thousand dollars worth of silver had been taken.
The vein was here forty feet wide. All these
mines, by the way, occur along the great Veta
Madre, which outcrops for five miles along the
mountain ridges west of Guanajuato which lies
like a city in a huge caldron, swarming with hu-
man life and foul beyond description, yet pidlur-
esque withal.
The richest ores in the world, great masses of
native silver, are found in some of the famous
mines of Mexico. Occasionally there may be seen
nuggets weighing as much as twenty-five pounds,
beautiful to look upon, bought by assay at the bank.
98 THE I.AND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
There is some gold in all the ores of Guanajuato ;
little or none in those of the Veta Grande at
Zacatecas.
If you care to ride from Zacatecas over the
great table-land to the westward you can visit the
Bolanos mines in Jalisco, one of the famous veins
in the Republic, and now worked by an American
company. The history of Mexico is a history of
mines. The knowdedge of ores and minerals is
universal from pauper to prince. The Indians are
all miners in one way or another. In Jalisco are
found the Witchola Indians coming almost wholly
naked into Bolaiios, each with a tale of some an-
cient mine long hidden and, of course, of untold
richness.
Bolaiios was once a thriving and really magnijGi-
cent little village. Its buildings are even now,
fallen and destroyed though they be, massive and
ornate. The walls of the haciendas and the patios
are impressive examples of fine masonry. The
Bolanos vein is a typical example of a true fissure.
Twenty-six shafts are sunk upon the vein, extend-
ing over a distance of a mile and a half. At the
southern end the Baranco shaft reaches a depth of
seven hundred feet, and is lined and faced with cut
stone, for some two hundred feet from the top.
Rumor credits the south end of Bolaiios with great
richness. Old men are still in the town who, with
tears in their eyes, speak of the silver bars that
went to Zacatecas in other days. Fairy tales of
VAI.ENCIANA AND BOLANOS MINES. 99
the past are told on all sides, and the church
records show that before 1850 these mines yielded
of silver four hundred millions of dollars.
To visit the churches, the walls and stone
courts, the patios and the aquedu6t built of stone
masonry three miles long and running one mile
through a mountain, is to grow convinced by de-
grees that the money which produced all these
must have come out of the Bolaiios vein. Every
man, woman and child in the district is, or has
been, a miner. The old dumps are worked still,
and still a small yield of silver goes over the
mountains yearly.
To make a trip through the various mines of
this immense vein were but to repeat the experi-
ences of our journey through Valenciana. One goes
along the slimy drifts and down the slippery esca-
leras with such feelings as ^Eneas must have expe-
rienced while wandering through the dark and for-
bidding passage-ways of the nether regions. Even
to one accustomed to the dark and dangerous
caverns dug into the earth by the hand of man
the threatening roofs and greasy ladders of the
Mexican mine must ever remain a terror. Expe-
rience, however, soon accustoms one to the use of
the rope-ladder, and in fa6l makes him familiar
with everything dangerous and horrible in the
bowels of the earth. Man cannot surprise one
very much where nature awes. There is some-
thing horrible in the huge caverns, and irregular
lOO THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
excavations, and slimy foot-paths which charadler-
ize the Mexican mine. At any moment one may
plunge down some unsuspe6led pit, or dash head-
foremost against proje6ling rocks. With a tallow
dip or a lighted rag taper you wander on and
stumble down, the naked miners crouching in the
drifts to let you pass, and to say " Buenos dias'''
with all the grace of beings of the upper air.
The glimpse of the deep blue sky above the
bare mountains is too wonderfully sweet for words
as you emerge, muddy and wet, from these infernos.
The Mexican mine is certainly frightful even to
an experienced miner, long used to the uncanny
deeps ; and in describing it there is no possibility
of exaggerating its horrors.
At Zacatecas we find another great population
given up to mining. It is a mistake to suppose
that the American miner is needed in Mexico.
The Mexican knows his business well. He go-
phers in the most irregular manner; but he gets
the value of the vein, and leaves behind him only
what he does not want. Laborious and patient is
this race of men who live under-ground in Mex-
ico. The introduction of American machinery has
done very little here as yet. The patio is every-
where worked, and the mules go round and round
in the pasty tortas until one wearies of the sight.
In the extreme western part of Chihuahua there
are hundreds of abandoned mines which are slowly
being reclaimed since the disappearance of the
VALENCIANA AND BOI.ANOS MINES. lOI
hostile Indians. The veins are unusually wide,
the vein-matter easily mined, but the ores are all
more or less refra(5lory. One cannot move a step
across country without running upon some mine
well worthy of description.
In addition to the wealth of the Land of the
Montezumas in gold and silver, it has other vast
deposits scarcely less valuable. Iron is found in
immense quantities in the States of Sonora, Oaxaca
and Michoacan; while in the State of Durango
alone the famous Cerro del Mercado is said to con-
tain iron enough to supply half of the foundries of
the world for years. Tin is also plentiful in this
section, and lead ores, often beaded with silver, as
in Colorado, abound all through the mountainous
portions of the country. Sonora is rich in lead,
iron, antimony, salt and copper, the latter being
also considerably mined in Oaxaca and Chihuahua;
Mercury, as well as petroleum, occurs in several
states, and Lower California produces the diamond,
although not of a very valuable kind. Coal is
found in various localities, and there is reason to
believe that extensive fields remain as yet unex-
plored in the Republic, although none such are
known to exist. Anthracite and bituminous in
every variety, together with a sort of brown coal,
or lignite, lie embedded here and there in greater
or less deposits. At present there are no large
coal mines within reach of the railroads, and fuel
is imported at great expense. Were the coal-bear-
I02 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
ing rocks carefully prospedled by competent judges,
and were capital judiciously and intelligently in-
vested in opening up coal-fields, conne6ling them
by narrow-gauge roads with the main lines, and
were the fields extensively worked with the vim
and vigor of American enterprise, probably for-
tunes equal to any realized from the silver or gold
mines would follow the undertaking.
AGRICULTURE AND KINDRED INTERESTS. 103
CHAPTER IX.
AGRICULTURE AND KINDRED INTERESTS.
T^ ETURNING to Silao^ through a country flour-
'*-^ ishing only in hills and abnormal growths of
cadli, where the fleshy variety, wholly insignificant
in the North, here attains tree-like proportions, and
where the organ-caclus, used very extensively for
fences in Mexico, towers skyward, its upright,
bristly stalks safely enclosing, against all ma-
rauders not possessed of stout wings, any field it
surrounds, we come again into a fertile distridl
only requiring proper irrigation to produce two
fine crops of maize or wheat a year. The line
which marks the northern limit of the sun's ver-
tical rays has long ago been crossed, and we are
well down in the tropical zone where the summer
sun shines the year round. The high altitude,
however, of the extensive table-lands, constituting
most of the geographical surface of Mexico, so
tempers the climate that it is more nearly like that
of our southern states, without their extremes of
heat and cold. The vegetation is semi-tropical.
Oranges and figs prosper, flowers bloom in the
open plazas the year round, great rose-bushes fill
104 '^KE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
the air with their delicate perfumes, oleanders
spread their wide-reaching branches into great
shade-trees, calla lilies decorate the Christmas al-
tars in profusion, and luscious strawberries may be
eaten any day in the year.
" We are now in the land of pomegranate and vine,
Where the flowers ever blossom, the beams ever shine;
Where the light wings of zephyr, oppressed with perfume,
Wax faint o'er the gardens of roses in bloom ;
Where the tints of the earth and hues of the sky,
In color, though varied, in beaut}' maj' vie,
And the purple of ocean is deepest in dye."
The mornings and evenings are always cool,
and the middays warm, even oppressively so in
the sun, there being a much more marked differ-
ence between the sunny and shady sides of the
street in this thin air than in our heavier atmos-
phere. The rain-fall is very slight here, and is
limited to about three months in summer, except
along the coasts. For this reason irrigation is an
absolute necessity to agriculture, and the right to
water in Mexico is of more importance than the
title to land. The bucket-method of raising water
from ditches, the manner of farming, and the dif-
ferent instruments in use, are exceedingly primi-
tive. Against the adoption of modern implements
the peon has a deep-rooted prejudice that can be
eradicated only by slow degrees. In making the
cuts along the railways, for example, these labor-
ers prefer to carry the dirt in bags on their backs
AGRICULTURE AND KINDRED INTERESTS. IO5
or heads, and even when induced to use the wheel-
barrow they persist in filHng them with dirt and
then carrying them in the same way, instead of
wheeling them on the ground. The introdudlion
of labor-saving machinery they look upon with
distrust, and when a progressive hacieiidado of the
northern states imported, but a short time ago, a
thrashing-machine for use on his own extensive
farm, he was surprised to find it utterly demol-
ished the first week after its arrival. When air-
brakes were first placed on the Mexican Central,
causing a lessening of the train-force, they too met
with the same fate. But under the present firm
and somewhat progressive government, and under
the civilizing effecft of railroads, these prejudices
are passing away, and Mexico is taking a step
forward. All signs point to an improved condi-
tion of affairs in the near future.
Education is steadily, though slowly, advancing.
Since the establishment of the Republic a system
of free schools, somewhat resembling that of our
own country, has been adopted, but as yet it has
taken little hold upon the lower classes outside of
the large cities. It is estimated that two-thirds of
the population are unable to read or write at the
present day. The principal cities, however, have
their colleges for the rich, and a few industrial
schools for the poor have been opened, and there
are art and law academies and colleges of science
and of medicine, and in the City of Mexico there
Io6 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
is a practical and tliorougli mining school. Prog-
ress is afoot, although halting and hampered.
The fields might be made to produce a hundred-
fold more abundantly than at present if a system
of canals and reservoirs were adopted, such as are
used so extensively in India, or even such as the
simpler methods of our western states. With some
such system of irrigation an income nearly equal to
that coming from the mines would accrue from the
golden harvests of the soil. These arid lands have
their advantages over the rain-watered countries,
in that they may be irrigated at will. Their cere-
als are not seared one year by a continued drought,
nor blighted another year by continued rains. On
the Mexican haciendas water is turned into the
fields before sowing, again when the seed is sprout-
ing, and again as the heads of grain are begin-
ning to form. In this manner the Egyptians have
produced their crops for centuries, although along
the Nile the yearly overflow of that mighty river
abundantly enriches the fields before sowing-time.
Silao is a quiet little place with no special points
of interest, except that it is thoroughly Mexican ;
but the country round about offers some induce-
ments, in the way of fine views and characfleristic
bits of agricultural life, to those who have the time
and energy to make excursions, here and there, on
the little Mexican ponies one may sometimes find
for hire here, if he is persistent enough. These
are the only means of conveyance pradlical for
AGRICULTURE AND KINDRED INTERESTS. IO7
travelers, as the vehicles are too cumbersome for
comfort, especially on the roads about Silao. Side-
saddles are out of the question, but the broad-pom-
meled saddle of the Mexicans makes a fairly com-
fortable seat for a woman ; and there is something
exhilarating and novel in riding a shaggy Mexican
pony on a Mexican saddle which has thongs and
straps and trimmings enough flying to create the
idea of motion even at a dead stand-still. Our ride
was by dashes and walks as the road permitted, the
greatest drawbacks to enjoyment being the almost
impassable portions of the mountainous road we
had chosen. The air, however, was delicious, and
there was a spice of romance in following an old
Mexican guide as he trailed us about this rugged
country.
At last we alighted at a way-side chapel eredled,
as a Spanish inscription over the door informed us,
"In gratitude to the Blessed Virgin of Guadalupe,
who mercifully heard my cries and rescued me
from the hands of murderous highwaymen in the
year 1869." We could not learn whether the Vir-
gin performed this kindly a6l in person, or whether
her representative arrived in time to save the
pocket-book as well as the life of her petitioner,
who thus generously commemorates his gratitude.
The little chapel, although desolate from its lonely
situation, is agreeably built, and well furnished
with pictures of the Stations of the Cross, and the
altar gaudily decorated. On one side of the nave
Io8 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
is a large glass case within which, in wax, is a life-
sized image of Christ after the crucifixion — the
most shockingly horrible thing of the kind we had
ever seen. The face is pale, ghastly and agonized,
the hair matted with blood which stands in great
clots on the forehead and about the wounds from
the crown of thorns. The breast is bare and from
the pierced side streams of red blood flow. In the
feet and hands are also wounds frightfully torn
and mangled. It is a very crude and awful hand-
ling of this sacred subject, and a fearful pidlure
to impress so realistically upon the superstitious
minds and hearts of these poor, benighted, suffer-
ing specimens of humanity, who need all the help
and brightness that religion in its purity can give
them.
We visited also a little group of adobe houses
clustered about a corn-mill of the primitive Mexi-
can fashion; and we entered one of them under
pretense of wanting a drink of water. The sefiora
greeted us graciously and wished us a " biicnos
dias^''^ in spite of the fa6l that there was an al-
most naked baby in each arm, two or three cling-
ing to her scanty skirt and as many more hud-
dling about her feet, reminding us of a brood of
chickens nestling under their mother's wings at
the approach of apparent danger. This ragged
group, with its dismal background, again bespeak-
inof a condition of degradation and wretchedness
beyond belief, furnished us with ample food for
AGRICULTURE AND KIXDRED INTERESTS. I09
refle6lion and discussion during the remainder of
our ride.
On reaching the city we found it all astir, and
rather unpleasantly so for us Americans, over the
successful escape, from the clutches of the law, of a
railroad conducflor whose train, on a previous trip,
very unluckily had run over and killed a Mexican
ranchero. The incident is worth relating, as it
illustrates with what ease and unconcern one Yan-
kee can outwit and elude a whole posse of Mexican
police. The condudlor was in no way to blame
for the disaster, as he was some distance away from
the coach when the accident occurred. The un-
fortunate man had probably taken a glass too
much of pulque, and had attempted to board an
outgoing train after the warning bell had sounded,
when he missed his hold and fell under the wheels.
Considerable excitement had been worked up over
the affair. The dead man's friends held that as
the conductor had started the train he should be
held accountable, and they issued a warrant for his
arrest upon his return trip. The operator heard of
the plan, however, and managed to wire his warn-
ing to the conduclor, who, on arrival, removed the
band from his hat and kept himself in the back-
ground until time for the train to leave. While
the mounted police, revolvers in hand, stood ready
to seize the condu6lor at the moment of his calling
out the signal for starting, he slyly nodded to his
engineer, and the train was off. As the fa(5l began
no THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
to dawn on the minds of the police that they were
fooled, they rode madly after the train, firing wild-
ly; but their man had escaped, not soon again to
enter their town.
As we reached the station we found the oper-
ator making preparations to go north also, as sus-
picion had fallen on him as the informer, and the
air was thick with threats and curses. He was
well prepared to meet the emergency, for a big
six-shooter was in his unoccupied hand, and an-
other lay upon his desk close by the fingers that
were coolly thumbing the keys, asking for pro-
tection and a safe exit from the country. Life
is not long a burden to one in this land after he
has incurred the displeasure of the authorities.
GUADALAJARA. Ill
CHAPTER X.
GUADALAJARA.
OWIFTLY we speed on the short journey from
^^ Silao to Irapuato, where we are to take the
newly completed branch line to Guadalajara.
" The dark world lies still in a sort of sweet swoon,
Wide open to heaven ; and the stars on the stream
Are trembling like eyes that are loved on the dream
Of a lover ; and all things seem glad and at re.st."
Rudely is the stillness of the nightly scene
broken by the long, piercing whistle for the sta-
tion, and then with ringing of bell and shouting of
strange tongues we enter the town, and are soon in
the midst of the lights and in confusion. As we
are waiting for baggage transfers to be made a
group of natives surrounds us with baskets of lus-
cious-looking strawberries, the more tempting for
their unfamiliar, musical name. Of course we
bought some, for at twenty-five cents a basket who
can resist strawberries in January? Some Mexican
ranchero in the vicinity, more enterprising than
his fellows, cultivates this delightful fruit here,
and such is the equability of the climate that the
berries ripen the year round. Later we discovered
113 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
* that our baskets were largely filled with cabbage
i leaves and green fruit, with only a handful of ripe
j berries on the top. After all, American enterprise
is not alone in the art of making much out of little,
' especially when at another's expense. However,
even a handful of strawberries, fresh from the
vines, are something to enjoy in midwinter.
With the morning w^e were on our way to
Guadalajara. The road leads along the fertile val-
ley of the Lerma river, and touches at several
considerable towns, the largest. La Piedad, hav-
ing a population of about ten thousand. The Rio
Grande de Santiago is crossed not far from its out-
let into Lake Chapala, the largest fresh-water lake
in the Republic, not visible from the train, although
a faint, shimmering light in the distance indicates
its location. There is a grand fall on the Santiago
river, we are told, but that, too, must remain a
matter of faith, as it is not within range of the
road. Spanning this same stream, the second river,
in size, of Mexico, is the famous Bridge of Calde-
ron, an old, stone strudlure, where Hidalgo was de-
feated in 1811 by the Spaniards.
= Guadalajara is the capital of the State of Ja-
i^ lisco, and is the second city in magnificence, and
; in the number of inhabitants, in the country. Un-
' til the very recent completion of the railroad con-
nedling it with its sister cities of the Republic, all
transportation to and fro has been by wagons,
mules and peon porters, hence it has been very
GUADALAJARA. 1 1 3
self-dependent, and is proud, aristocratic and thor-
oughly Mexican. Its importance and prosperity
will rapidly increase with the improved facilities
for transportation, especially when the line now
building to San Bias on the coast is completed,
thus giving a new line from the Pacific to the capi-
tal, and a complete cross-line from gulf to ocean.
It was a great surprise to find a city that had
been, until recently, so entirely shut in from the
world, enjoying the luxuries of ele<ftric lights and
good street-car accommodations, yet thus it was,
long before the railroad came. Only ten years
after the overthrow of the City of Mexico, Guada-
lajara was founded by Nunez Guzman, one of the
captains of that conquest. It is exceedingly beau-
tiful, with its streets wide and well laid out, with
numbers of charming plazas and with lovely out-
lying scenery. After the Mexican fashion the grand,
central plaza is surrounded by the principal public
buildings, the great Cathedral and parish church,
and the portales, or stores. To describe the Cathe-
dral is impossible ; even a photograph of it gives
but an inadequate conception of the magnificent
edifice. The front is heavily yet gracefully carv^ed
in solid stone, with fluted pillars that enclose niches
bearing stately statues. Twin towers arise from
the corners, lifting their surmounting crosses into
pinnacled heights, and the dome over-arching the
central roof is encased with richly colored tiles.
The interior impresses us with its silent, vault-
114 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
ed Splendor. Immense quadruple columns support
the arches of the roof that seem gracefully airy at
their great height, although built of solid stone.
The dome is brilliantly frescoed, and the choir is
as superb as gilding and carving can make it On
a level with the huge capitals of the pillars a
narrow gallery of bronze-metal bands the entire
building, and under the great dome is a mag-
nificent altar in white and gold decorations. The
cathedrals of the City of Mexico and of Puebla
are said to be grander ; hardly can any be more
beautiful.
The hospital of San Miguel de Belan is a
prominent institution, embracing both a hospital
and a lunatic asylum. It was founded in 1787,
and once had immense revenues from the prop-
erty with which it was endowed ; but it has passed
through many changes and reverses and is now
but partly self-supporting, the city and state con-
tributing a portion to defray expenses. Of still
greater proportions and of larger beneficence is
the Hospicio de Guadalajara. Its vast buildings,
with walls of enormous thickness surmounted by
domed roofs, cover several acres of ground and
enclose some twenty court-yards, each surrounded
by arched corridors. A thousand inmates are shel-
tered within its charitable walls, from the babe
deserted in the streets to the skilled artisan ready
to go out into the world proficiently trained for his
work. It is at once a foundling and orphan asy-
GUADALAJARA. II5
lum, a juvenile school, reform school, school of
arts and of mechanics, high-school, asylum for the
blind, and deaf, and dumb, and for the indigent
and aged a work-shop, college and hospital.
Two Indian specialties are carried to a high
degree of perfedlion at Guadalajara: the exquisite,
lace-like drawn-work, that is truly a marvel of \
dainty art, and the pottery, consisting of statuettes,
vases, clay images, ornaments and utensils of al-
most every conceivable kind, and for which the
city is justly famous. It is affirmed that ever}'
man, woman and child in Guadalajara is a born
artist. Would that some of our American dabblers
in pottery could go there and be born again !
The suburban village of San Pedro, reached by .
tramway from the city, is the headquarters of the^
pottery industries, carried on chiefly by the peons, 1
in their own meagre huts, where they mould, deco-
rate and burn their wares. Here, as well as at the
Plaza de Toros and in many shops in the city, may
be found, for sale, cart-loads of it, of every size and
of every variety, from tiny toy cups to flower vases
three feet high. Busts and statuettes are here
made representing every noted man of the country,
past and present, and clay images that exadlly
copy the natives in every grade of life. From a
photograph, or from a short study of one's face,
these natural artists will model a miniature fac- \
simile of his customer in a few hours. The water-
jars, of a fine glazed ware, enameled in colors and
Il6 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
artistically decorated in bronze and gilt, are among
their handsomest pieces. Those of a more com-
mon, porous ware are preferred for service, as the
constant evaporation through the pores keeps the
water remarkably fresh and cool. There are also
other important manufacturing interests in and
about Guadalajara, that have served to make this
the thriving business city that she is, in spite of
her isolated position.
The Alameda is a great place of public resort,
having a delightful promenade, and a tree-lined
carriage drive. The military band frequently fur-
nishes most thrilling music here, when the park is
thronged with the concert-loving natives of all
classes. Bull-fighting is the master-passion with
Mexicans; but gambling, concert-going and the
theatre are also sources of never-ending delight.
Lotteries are carried on under government license,
and in some cities tickets are constantly thrust in
the faces of the passers-by, especially by women
and children, with many and varied pleadings in
soft Mexican Spanish, and with many assurances
that the Holy Virgin will bless the buyer with
prizes of — no telling how much. But our faith
in the Virgin's control of the chances of lotteries
does not warrant us in risking our Mexican dollar.
The churches and plazas, worth visiting here,
are too numerous for more than a passing glance
from the tourist hurrying through the country.
However, there is one trip, that out to the Bar-
GUADALAJARA. II7
ranca de Portillo, which must be taken leisurely, if'\
taken at all. As it is one of the points of interest
about Guadalajara we determined to give it a day,
in the way of a p icnic excursion. It is reached byj
tramway to the Temecal factory, but thence for
five miles the venturesome traveler, who wishes to
do the corre(5l thing, must proceed on burro-back
at the cost of quatro realcs^ or four bits each. Bur-
ros are always plentiful in this land. It is a
patient little animal, said to feed luxuriously on
tin cans and brown paper, and certainly thriving
in a pasture of thistles and ca6li. It appeals irre-
sistibly to your sympathies, and you imagine that
you could never be induced to urge it out of its
natural gait by the cruel application of whip or
spur. But have you ever ridden one? Try it for
a while, and sympathy will vanish as dew before
the sunshine. You will lay on the whip with re-
newing energy at every step, the stolid indifference
with which your efforts are received vainly increas-
ing the violence of your blows, and finally you
come almost to esteem the methods by which the
Mexican manages partly to overcome the obstinacy
of his beast. He rides it without bridle, guiding
it to the right or left, accordingly as he wishes to
turn, by a far from gentle blow on this or on that
side of the head with a sharp-pointed stick, with
which he also goads the burro's shoulder, keeping a
chronic wound in the thick skin, through which
he reaches its sensibilities. His stirrups are short
Il8 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
and his legs bowed out, so that his heels can be
constantly kept in motion against its sides, prod-
ding it at every step with stick and spur. Thus
with shoulders rolling, arms working and legs ply-
ing, a Mexican riding a burro forms a pi6lure with
as much motion to the square inch as that of a
bucking bronco, or a kicking mule attacked by a
swarm of bees.
Our trip was tedious and often discouragingly
slow ; but by having our guide ride in the rear
of the party, prodding first one and then another
of the burros, he managed to keep the cavalcade
on the move. Some portions of the road, as we
neared the more rugged country, or strayed into
the by-ways, are mere goat paths, and are hardly
passable for any beast of burden except the bur-
ro — uneven and full of mesquite roots, and stumps
of the prickly nopal, and ruts, and ridges. It is
of the kind described by the Mexicans as buen
camino de pajaros^ a good road for birds. Other
portions are through cultivated meadows and great
fields of sugar-cane and maize, for the state of
Jalisco is one of the most fertile in the Republic.
Reaching our destination we find the Barranca .
to be a deep valley or canon, dropping down from
the plain, and watered by the Santiago river.
Winding down its precipitous sides we find it
very beautiful, with a luxuriant growth of tropic-
al plants and flowers, as new to us and as lovely
as anything we have yet seen. No spot more
GUADALAJARA. II9
charming for a picnic could have been seledled
than this — under the fresh, broad-leaved, cluster-
ing branches, with the river flowing below. We
learned here by a sad experience to be careful
not to become entangled with the thorns of the
prickly-pear, nor to yield too readily to the de-
sire to gather from it the tempting scarlet flowers
that burst from the twisting shoots, like fiery-red
flames. There are some grand views across coun-
try to the green-clad spurs of the Sierras, and
all in all the trip was voted a great success, even
though the burros were not.
The last day of our stop in this princely city^
has been spent, for, in the morning, after packing j
away in bags and baskets enough of the unique i
Guadalajara pottery to make us tremble at the'^
thought of custom-oflEicials, we start en route for '
the main line of the Central Railway, where we
connect for the city of Queretaro.
I20 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
CHAPTER XI.
QUERETARO THE CITY OF CHURCHES.
-'T^HERE is no event more pathetic nor more
important in the annals of modern history
than that which culminated in the death-blow to
Maximilian and his empire one sunny June morn-
ing at Queretaro. This beautiful city dates its an-
tiquity back to the fifteenth century, when it was
founded, and soon became a flourishing Aztec vil-
lage. It was subsequently destroyed by the Span-
iards in their sweeping conquest of the country ;
but it was rebuilt on the same site, and is now one
of the finest cities of the Republic. It is delight-
fully located on the edge of a wide and fertile
plain bordered by slow-rising mountains whose
fringes lie close to the northern city limits. There
are many beautiful residences and noble edifices,
and the churches seem almost as numerous as
trees in the forest. Yet it was here in the midst
of her stately cathedrals and under the sound of
their ever-ringing bells that the power of the
Romish Church was forever broken in Mexico.
^ The beautiful plazas, the shaded alamedas, the
\ prosperous mills and the cheerful, busy life of the
QUERETARO THE CITY OF CHURCHES. 121
Streets contain no hint of that dark time when ;
contending armies fiercely struggled for suprem- {
acy. Only the three crosses on Cerro de las
Campaiias tell the tragic story of the final over-
throw of monarchical government and Church rule.
With indefatigable energy and unswerving will
the Church party had opposed every step towards
intellectual or political liberty. The contest be-
gan when, more than a half-century ago, Hidalgo
lighted the torch of freedom whose flames, long
smoldering but never-extinguished, have spread
throughout the land.
At that time the Church of Mexico was the
most corrupt in the world. It was, in fa6l, an
out-flowing current of the great parent power
that has its head-waters in the Vatican at Rome,
whence radiate streams of degradation, corrup-
tion and superstition to all parts of the earth.
With chara6leristic regard to self-interest it gave
to the Throne of Castile its powerful aid to re-
tain her grasp on the colony of New Spain, just
so long as it was for its own benefit to do so.
But when the successful revolution of the Em-
peror Iturbide seemed to promise to Catholicism
the mastery of the New World, as well as of the
Old, the Pope of Rome withdrew his support from
Spain and lent a helping hand to the cause of
Mexico. As soon, however, as the Government
protested against papal oppression, and the Pope
perceived the spirit of the people drifting towards
122 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
religious as well as political liberty, he immedi-
ately became a bitter and unyielding enemy. The
Church party, having a hold on the superstitions
of the masses and being in possession of more than
one-half of all the wealth of the nation, now pow-
erfully opposed the Republic ; but the onward
press for freedom was irresistible.
For a long period of years the country was
torn up by internal feuds, and impoverished by
ever-changing forms of government and by ever-
varying rulers. In 1846 it was proposed in con-
gress that the Church should share its proportion
of the state expenses; but the measure was over-
whelmingly defeated, and its advocate driven from
the country in disgrace.
At this time, however, Juarez appeared and soon
became an invincible champion of liberalism and
freedom. Born of obscure Indian parentage in
1806, he was unable to read or write, and was to-
tally ignorant of the Spanish language when he
left his native hamlet at the age of twelve. After
acquiring an education he studied law, and entered
the field of politics as his natural sphere of adlion.
Under Alvarez he was appointed Minister of Jus-
tice and of Ecclesiastical Affairs, and with the rati-
fication of congress he instituted sweeping meas-
ures of reform. He pronounced to the people the
liberty of the press, and the freedom of religious
thought, and in his celebrated Code of Law he
"abolished the whole system of class legislation,
QUERETARO THE CITY OF CHURCHES. I23
suppressed the militaty and ecclesiastical fiieros —
privileged and special tribunals and charters of the
army and clergy — and established, for the first time
in Mexico, equality of the citizens before the law."
This announcement brought on a revolution,
and Alvarez, as head of the aggressive government,
was forced to retire. Comonfort now became Presi-
dent. Although liberal at heart, his weak desire
to please each side soon won the enmity of both.
After his vacillating policy had betrayed the Gov-
ernment into the hands of the Church party he was
abandoned and compelled to flee the country.
The leadership of the liberalists then devolved
upon Juarez, who established himself with his cab-
inet at Vera Cruz and commenced the Three Years
War of Reform, which terminated in a vidlory
for his party and in the eledlion of Juarez to the
presidency. But the nation was totally exhausted
by its long struggle, and the public treasury' was
utterly depleted. Over this grave financial diffi-
culty there were serious dissensions, even in the
cabinet; and the mistake was made of suspending
all payments of foreign loans, or the interest there-
on. England, France and Spain were creditors to
the amounts of many millions each, and these na-
tions made this common indebtedness a pretext
to form a triple alliance to interfere in Mexican
affairs. In 1861 they took possession of the harbor
and custom-house at Vera Cruz. Meeting with the
determined opposition of Juarez, and in the face of
124 'I^HE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
the now declared intentions of Louis Napoleon, of
establishing a dependent monarchy in Mexico,
England and Spain concluded a treaty and with-
drew their fleets.
The French commanders refused all negotia-
tions and marched their army into the country.
At Puebla they met the republican troops, and
were signally defeated. Napoleon III., finding it
a more serious matter than he had expelled to
subdue the Mexican people, sent over a largely in-
creased force, and finally the garrison at Puebla,
after it had entirely exhausted its ammunition and
had been reduced to starv'ation, was forced to ca-
pitulate. Its leaders, however, refused to sign
parole and fled to the North. The French and
Church party then had complete control and
marched to the possession of the capital city.
Here they chose Almonte for temporary President
— a mere tool in their hands. By him the Assem-
bly of Notables was appointed; and they, in turn,
under the pretense of obeying the will of the na-
tion, declared in favor of a limited monarchy to be
invested in a Catholic prince approved by the pa-
pal See and by Louis Napoleon of France. These
powers declared in favor of the brother of the Em-
peror of Austria, Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian,
born in 1832, and educated under the refining in-
fluences of court favor. In 1857 he was given the
command of the entire Austrian navy, for which
profession he had fully prepared himself. During
QUERETARO THE CITY OF CHURCHES. 125
a visit to Paris he became the guest of Emperor
Napoleon, by whom he was received with great
honor, and a warm friendship soon grew up be-
tween them. He was married to Princess Car-
lotta, daughter of the King of Belgium, a highly
accomplished, refined and beautiful woman.
When tendered the imperial crown of Mexico,
Maximilian, as if warned by the dark shadow of his
impending fate, refused to accept it unless called
by the popular vote of the nation. This the as-
sembly ostensibly secured, and in the spring of
1864 Maximilian and Carlotta, under French es-
cort and attended by the special blessing of the
Pope, sailed over the sea to the foreign land they
had been summoned to govern. At Vera Cruz
they were received by the Church party with im-
perial splendor, and the empire was established;
but its foundation had no deep roots in the hearts
of the people burning under the insult of foreign
intervention. The brilliant display of fire-works,
the ceremonious pomp and the superficial greetings
were but chilling welcome to the young ruler, who
said to Mejia on his reception: "I care not for
words, but for hearts." These, however, he could
not win with sceptre and crown. Although pos-
sessed of brilliant attainments and of noble bear-
ing, he was not born to be a ruler of men. While
courageous and sincere he had not the persevering
energy necessary for one who would condudl an
empire.
126 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
For a time the imperial army, with its Austrian
and French battalions, was every- where vidlorious;
and the Juarists were pushed to the northern
limits of the country. Maximilian lived in royal
splendor at the capital, where he caused many
improvements to be made. The castle of Cha-
pultepec was also reconstru6led, and the beautiful
drive, now known as the Grand Paseo, was built
from the city out to its noble groves. But the
heavy expense of sustaining a court and foreign
army soon drained the public treasury, and large
loans had to be solicited in London.
The republican forces under the able command
of Diaz, now President of Mexico, began to har-
rass successfully the imperial armies, gaining in
numbers and in courage with each vi(5lory. Then
the sister Republic of the United States, issuing vic-
toriously from its own dark cloud of civil war, took
a hand in the affairs, and issued a protest against
foreign intervention on the American continent.
Secretary Seward wrote to the French court some-
thing as follows: "The Government of the United
States had long recognized, and still continues to
recognize, the constitutional government of the
United States of Mexico as the sovereign author-
ity in that country, and Benito Juarez as its chief."
To our minister in France he wrote: "The pres-
ence and operations of the French army in Mex-
ico, and the maintenance of an authority there,
resting upon force and not upon the free-will of
QUERETARO THE CITY OF CHURCHES. 127
the people, is a cause of serious concern to the
United States of America."
The correspondence continued, and our Gov-
ernment finally intimated very definitely that it
would be perfe(5lly agreeable to her if France
would find it convenient and "compatible with its
best interests and high honor to withdraw from its
aggressive attitude in Mexico." In accordance
with this position the United States troops were
marshaled on the Rio Grande frontier prepared
to enforce, if need be, the provisos of the Monroe
do(Strine.
This was a contingency Napoleon was not pre-
pared to meet, and the futility of his scheme to
control Mexican affairs appearing, he announced
his intentions to withdraw his army, which he did
in the following February. This was a fearful blow
to Maximilian, who sent his noble wife to the
French court to plead with his patron, but in vain.
She next sought aid in Rome, where, crushed with
the hopelessness of her cause, her reason gave way,
and she was taken to her childhood home in Bel-
gium, a mental wreck.
Maximilian now prepared to abdicate his ill-
starred throne, but the Church party seeing utter
ruin to them in his departure, induced him to re-
main. They had hoped, with the aid of Catholic
France, to regain hold on the reins of Government
and once more establish papal supremacy in Mex-
ico. They well knew that, deserted by their leader
128 THE LAND OP THE MONTEZUMAS.
the republican representatives would soon sweep
the country, and that the edidls against their order,
defeated under Alvarez, would then be fully carried
into effedl. Their only hope lay in success. With
renewed vigor they strengthened their lines and
offered a desperate resistance to the forces of Jua-
rez; but they were continuously defeated.
A final stand was made at Queretaro, with
Maximilian in person at the head of his army,
equally and courageously sharing with his soldiers
the hardships of war. The city was closely pressed
and was ill-prepared to withstand a siege on ac-
count of the overlooking hills from which it was
commanded by the enemy. Finally, after repeated
struggles, the republican forces made an entrance
into the city, probably through the treachery of
Captain Lopez, one of the officers of Maximilian's
army. Finding escape impossible the Emperor
with his whole force surrendered, declared his
relinquishment of the Government, and offered to
leave the country. But the Mexican Republic
could not so easily forgive the usurpation of her
rights. The blood of her murdered sons, fallen in
battle and by the cruel proscription lists issued
by him against political prisoners, cried aloud
for vengeance. Maximilian was given a trial by
court-martial, and was sentenced to be shot with
his two Generals, IMiramon and Mejia. Every effort
was exerted by his friends to obtain his pardon,
but to no purpose. President Juarez was appealed
QUERETARO THE CITY OF CHURCHES. 1 29
to in vain; the United States could not be induced
to interfere; Louis Napoleon had abandoned him
to his fate; and even the Austrian Emperor came
not to his own brother's rescue. On the eve of
his death the saddened soul of the fallen prince
breathed itself into a farewell letter to his absent
and dementate wife:
" To My Beloved Carlotta: If God ever permits you to
recover, and read this, you will learn the cruelty of the
fate which has not ceased to pursue me since your depart-
ure for Europe. You carried with you my soul and my
happiness. WTay did I not listen to you ? So many events,
alas ! so many unexpedled and unmerited catastrophes
have overwhelmed me that I have no hope in my heart,
and I await death as a delivering angel. I die without
agony. I shall fall with glorj', like a conquered King, If
you have not power to bear so much suffering, if God
soon reunites us., I shall bless the divine and paternal
hand which has so rudely stricken us.
Adieu ! Adieu !
Thy Poor Max."
The following morning, when the early sun
was kissing the awakening flow^ers, when the soft
winds were whispering the bright promise of the
day, and when all nature was teeming with happy
life, the vanquished Emperor and his Generals
were marched b}^ a squad of infantr}^ from the
convent cells, where they had been imprisoned,
to the Hill of Bells, there to meet their doom.
There they stand with their backs to a low,
broken wall, Maximilian on the right with an
130 THE LAND OF THR MONTEZUMAS.
upraised crucifix in his hand, Mejia on the left
with arms folded, and Aliramon clasping his writ-
ten defense, all facing the line of soldiers wait-
ing the word of command that shall sound
their death-knell. The fatal order given, a simul-
taneous volley, and the three great leaders of
Catholicism in Mexico fall fore\er. The agony
of that last, long gaze upon the fair earth, before
the crack of the rifles sent them
" Forth into the darkness,"
seems expiation sufficient for every mistake or
crime they may have committed. Yesterday ambi-
tion lived, and the soul stirred with hopes as fond
and sweet as songs of birds at mating-time. Life
was in its prime, and rich with all things great ;
to-day, death and the grave !
" The glories of our birth and state
Arc shadows, not substantial things !
There is no armor against fate —
Death lays his icy hands on kings ;
Sceptre and crown
Must tumble down,
And in the dust be equal made
With the poor crooked scythe and spade."
Although our hearts throb with anguish over
the sufferings of ill-fated Maximilian and his
stricken Queen, now a hopeless maniac lingering
in a living death, it is not for this age to judge
of the extremities of the measures required by
those dark and troublous times. Maximilian was
QUERETARO THE CITY OF CHURCHES. 13I
no doubt honest in his belief that he had been
called to Mexico by the voice of her people;
doubtless, too, he was sincerely desirous of bring-
ing peace, prosperity, and the greatest good to his
subje6ls. The very foundation of his empire, how-
ever, rested on the continuance of those very op-
pressions which the sons of Mexico had struggled
against since their first efforts to throw off the
heavy yoke of Spain. His empire was forcibly
sustained by foreign power and by foreign troops
fighting against the will of the people; and when
patriotism rose victorious it seemed necessary to
deal a blow powerful enough to completely crush
her enemies and cause her to rank among the
nations of the world, as one not only able but
determined to conduct her own afiairs.
In the eloquent language of one writing on the
ver}^ spot of the great triple tragedy, and but a few
months after the sad event :
"When the sharp crash of the volley came, the
three usurpers rolled upon the ground. Mejia and
Miramon died instantly ; but Maximilian repeat-
edly clapped his hand on his head as if in agony,
and expired with a struggle, as the echoes of the
muskets died away among the canons of the dis-
tant Sierra. Died away, did I say? No, not there
nor then! Those echoes rolled across the broad
Atlantic and shook every throne in Europe. The
royal plotter against the liberties of men heard
them in his palace by the Seine, and grew pale as
132 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
he listened. They rolled over the Pyrenees, and
the throne of Isabella began to crumble ; over the
Alps, and every monarch from Italy to the farthest
East heard in them the rumblings of the coming
earthquake — the prelude to the fall of empires.
They will roll on, and on, through the coming
ages, and be answered by the uprising millions of
future generations, until 'kingly prerogatives,' and
'divine right' are things of the past. The world
had waited long for these echoes, and was better
when it heard them at last."
There is current in Mexico a serio-comic story
connedled with the fate of Miramon, which is
tempting to relate as illustrating the chara6leristic
ease with which an Irishman can turn even a rev-
olution to his own account. Miramon's daughter
was married to a native of Ireland, by name, plain
Patrick Allies^ softened, however, after his resi-
dence in Mexico to the more euphonious Patrucio
Milmo. After the capture of Miramon it was in-
timated to Seiior Milmo that the sum of three
millions of dollars, easily raised on the estates of
his father-in-law, would secure his release ; but the
alert Irishman, perceiving an opportunity, sudden-
ly became too conscientious a patriot to consider
for a moment the question of buying the pardon of
a traitor to his country, even though the prisoner
were his own father by marriage. Seiior Milmo,
therefore, was not slow in returning an answer, of
which the following is a free translation: "He is
QUERETARO THE CITY OF CHURCHES. 1 33
not warth it." In consequence Miramon fell and
Sefior Patrucio Milmo is now a great Mexican
banker, and one of the richest men of the Re-
public.
Soon after the disastrous close of the short
reign of Maximilian, and while his death-volley
was still ringing throughout the civilized world,
arousing in some hearts a feeling of sympathy, in
others a sense of rejoicing, Church supremacy in
Mexico came to an end, and the Republic was
assured. By request of his brother the body of
the dead Emperor was embalmed and sent to Aus-
tria, and was buried in the Church of the Holy
Cross at Innsbruck, crossing the ocean in the self-
same vessel in which, three short years before, he
had sailed over the Atlantic to establish and per-
petuate his throne in New Spain.
One of the heroes of the world
Fought to conquer, and fought to fail ;
Slain he fell in his blood-stained mail,
And over his form the people stept ;
His cause was lost and his banner furled,
And only a shattered woman wept.
134 ^2E I<AND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
CHAPTER XIL
INDUSTRIES OF QUERETARO.
TT is tlie history of all primitive peoples tliat they
-^ put off their uncouth robes of skins stripped
from the wild forest-beasts stricken by poisoned
arrows, as they begin to rise from a ravage to a
semi-civilized state, and that the arts of spinning
and weaving grow and thrive among them almost
as naturally as the cotton in their fields. The an-
cient races of Mexico took this step toward ad-
vancement at an earlier age than the light of his-
tory penetrates, and perhaps as early as any known
nation of the world. When the Spaniards entered
the country the proficiency of cotton-cloth manu-
fadlures, the brilliancy of the dyes, and the grace-
fulness of the interwoven patterns were matters of
great surprise and admiration.
As a general industry, however, manufadluring
here does not flourish, even though protedled by
heavy duties against foreign competition. The ex-
treme high price of fuel and the scarcity of water
are difficulties against which not even the low rates
of labor can sufficiently weigh to make Mexico a
prosperous manufadluring country. Steam is little
INDUSTRIES OF QUERETARO. 1 35
used, and mills run by water-power are necessarily-
scarce, for want of merry mountain brooks to "ever
and anon put their broad shoulders to the wheel
and show that they can labor as well as laugh."
The United States, especially along the border,
reaps the diredl benefit from this condition of
aflfairs, and were it not for the high import tax
on our wares American manufacflurers could flood
the Mexican markets with a superior quality of
goods at much lower prices than are now paid
for inferior articles of their own make. In this
whole vast country there are only about one
hundred fadlories all told, representing in round
numbers fifteen millions of dollars. Cotton and
woolen goods are the most extensive produ6lions,
paper of a poor grade is made, and leathern goods
of all kinds, coarse flour, straw and felt hats,
baskets, brushes, silk, glass, rope, matting, canton-
flannels, palm-leaf wares, cochineal dyes, choco-
late, cocoa, sugar, candles, tiles and a great variety
of Mexican pottery.
The famous Hercules cotton fadlory at Que-
retaro is the largest of any sort in the Republic.
This extensive establishment, founded fifty years
ago, has cost some four millions of dollars, and
its owners, the Don Rubio family, are among the
richest proprietors in INIexico. Taking a some-
what dojLibtful-looking vehicle, a sort of combina-
tion of the cab and the coach, our party drove from
the beautiful little plaza, where we had been lin-
136 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
gering in delight, through the picturesque streets
to the dingy outskirts, passing on the way the
massive stone aquedu6l which supplies the thrifty
city with water. It was built by the Marqitis Del
Villar de la Aguilar^ one of Queretaro's wealthy
citizens, in fulfillment, it is reputed, of a wager
with another Mexican Vanderbilt, possessed of more
money than sense, who promised on his part to
eredl a shrine and life-size statue of the Virgin
in solid silver. Both agreements are said to have
been faithfully carried out by the parties to the
contrail, but while on the one hand we have in
testimony the aquedu6l, with its stately arches
rising, across the valley, sometimes to a height
of ninety feet, on the other hand the silver
shrine, if it were ever built, must have long ago
found its way to the mint. At least we could
not learn of its present existence, greatly to the
regret of our irrepressible, who sadly mourned his
lost opportunity of requesting the honor of a sil-
ver maiden's hand.
A short drive beyond the city brought us to
the gates of the great cotton-mill, looking more
like a veritable fortress than a place of peaceful
industry, if one were to judge from the high, thick
walls, set with rising towers, which enclose a large
tra6l of land, and from the massive gate-ways
opening therein. This means of protection, sup-
plemented by a small army of riflemen, has ena-
bled the proprietors to outlive revolutions and
INDUSTRIES OF QL ERETARO. I37
riots and repel many a band of marauders. Many
a thrilling tale is told of the desperate attempts
of banditti to unman the walls and capture this
stronghold of wealth ; but in this they were never
successful, for the Don Rubios were generals as
well as financiers. Until recently such means of
private defense was a prime requisite to success
in any undertaking in Mexico, as the Government
was more than busy with its own affairs.
Entering the gates the scene is strikingly beau-
tiful. The handsome dwellings of the Rubio fam-
ily are surrounded by an extensive park adorned
with tropical flowers and fruits, winding walks,
fountains, and an artificial lake starry with golden
lilies. In the centre stands an imposing statue of
Hercules, Back of the residences are the guard-
house, mill-buildings and warehouses. Both water
and steam powers are used. The little river, of
which Queretaro is fortunately possessed, is made
to turn one of the largest overshot wheels in the
world, over fifty feet in diameter, and steam is
brought into requisition to run the massive Corliss
engine imported from Rhode Island. Wood, cost-
ing from fifteen to sixteen dollars a cord, is used
for fuel. There are some eighteen hundred labor-
ers, both men and women, working ten and twelve
hours a day, employed in this giant fa(5lory, the
spinners receiving from thirty to fifty cents a day,
the weavers averaging six dollars a week. The
mills turn out immense quantities of coarse, un-
138 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
bleached cloth, called manta, used universally for
the clothing of the laboring class in Mexico, to
whom it is sold at a great profit.
Quite a large, independent town is clustered
about the mills, made up entirely of its operatives
and their families. They are said to be a quiet,
industrious class, and only once since the opening
of the mills have the proprietors been troubled
with the strike-problem. They succeeded in solv-
ing it by shutting down the mills until the em-
ployes were forced to return to their terrible grind,
hopeless of obtaining any advance from their es-
tablished wages, which in any other country would
hardly be adequate against starvation. Their bit-
terness sought to avenge itself by an attack on the
chief of the house, who was stabbed by the knife
of an assassin the first time he ventured out alone
after the strike-failure. No further trouble oc-
curred, and Don Rubio recovered, and his mills
are now among the most prosperous in the Re-
public.
\ Another industry at Queretaro consists in the
grinding and polishing of opals. Many beautiful
varieties of this stone are found in Mexico, espe-
cially in the state of Queretaro, where some of the
richest opal mines in the world have been opened,
yielding quantities of fine gems of a great diver-
sity of colors, ranging from a black to a cream-
white, with shades of blue, red, green, yellow, and
an exquisite shade of pink. " Of all precious
INDUSTRIES OF QUERETARO. I39
stones," says Pliny, "the opal is the most difficult
of description, as it appears to combine in one
gem the beauties of many other species — the fire
of the carbuncle, the purple of the amethyst, the
green of the emerald and the yellow of the topaz."
The poet thus beautifully describes the
BIRTH OF THE OPAL.
Once a dew-drop came with a spark of flame,
He had caught from the sun's last ray,
To a violet's breast where he lay at rest
Till the dawn of the coming day.
And the rose looked down with a blush and frown ;
But she smiled with delight to view
Her bewitching form with its coloring warm
As refledted to her by the dew.
Then the dew-drop took an enchanted look
At the sky in a blaze of blue ;
And a leaflet green in its silvery sheen
Met the eyes of the watcher too.
As he thus reclined the congealing wind
Swept his face as he looked around ;
And a maiden fair who was walking there
In the morning an opal found.
The Turks have a fashion for believing that
the opal falls from heaven in the lightning's flash.
"A pearl with a fire in it," some one has called it.
This well describes the beautiful variety known as
the fire-opal, possessing the pure, creamy lustre of
the pearl, enriched with flame-like refledlions of
140 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
amaranthine red, changing to honey-yellow, and
often emitting every prismatic tint. This marvel-
ous play of colors is thought by some chemists to
come from water imprisoned in the gem; but the
eminent philosopher. Sir Isaac Newton, believed
the iridescence to be due to the refledtion and re-
fracftion of light caused by the presence of micro-
scopic air-cells, and invisible fissures. Other sci-
entists believe that the beautiful and variegated
colors are the result of laminae differing slightly
in their degrees of transparency. Whatever may
be the philosophical explanation for the inborn
beauty of the opal it is generally admitted that its
chief charm lies in its many imperfe(5lions.
The records of the opal mines of the ancients
have been lost to history, but it is supposed that
the gem was found in India, Syria and Arabia, and
was sought as a favorite of the royalty of all na-
tions. The value then, as now, depended upon
its size, uniformity and fiery colorings. It was
rarely found in those countries of any remarkable
size in perfe6lion, the famous opal of Nonius being
no larger than a hazel-nut, yet a gem so highly
prized by its possessor that he preferred exile
rather than surrender it to Marc Antony. This
celebrated and antique gem has enjoyed a play of
values almost equal to its play of colors, ranging
from a hundred thousand dollars to a full million.
Its whereabout is now unknown, and it is highly
probable that its glories have well-nigh faded.
INDUSTRIES OF QUERETARO. I4I
It is almost an impossibility to engrave the
opal without destroying its beauty, although a few
ancient and perfect intaglios in the stone have
been handed down to modern times. One notable
specimen, engraved with the heads of Jupiter,
Diana and Apollo, may be seen in the Praun col-
lecftion of antique gems.
Up to the present time the mines of Hungary,
discovered in the fifteenth century, have yielded
the finest and most durable opals known, but it is
thought and hoped that those of Mexico, when
properly developed, will be found of equal impor-
tance, as valuable gems have been discovered in
localities widely separated, many even of large
size and of uniform structure, and exhibiting a
play of rainbow colors as brilliant as the rarest ever
found. Although more brittle than the Hungarian
species, the intensity and splendor of its hues
withstand atmospheric changes quite as well, and
are even more gorgeously beautiful. It occurs in
various sizes, qualities and colors in a hard, brit-
tle trachyte, and sometimes in a porcelain earth,
in irregular, branching veins. The resplendent
fire-opal, the most charming of all the many varie-
ties of this stone, is obtained in its greatest per-
fe6lion in porphyritic rock at Zimapan, Mexico.
The w^onderful mitre on the idol of Quetzalcoatl
at Cholula, described by the Spaniards as waving
with plumes of fire, is thought to have been an
eflfedt of this beautiful s:em.
142 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
The Empress Josephine was the fortunate own-
er of a wonderful fire-opal, perhaps the most noted
on record. It was called the "Burning of Troy,"
because of the countless flashes of red flame it
emitted, as though it were on fire. It is described
as "perfe6lly opaque on the under side, but the
upper portion being transparent, served the pur-
pose of a window through which were seen the
glowing rays of fiery light, very appropriately
compared to the conflagration of a great city."
The black variety of opal is considered very
rare, and the pink shades are much in favor, but
the beauty, as well as the value, of any of these
gems depends chiefly upon its fire, and the price
may vary from five dollars to five thousand for
stones of equal weight.
The superstitious fancies connedled with this
stone are interesting, and are as various as they
are numerous. At times it has even been re-
garded as sacred, and as assuring the smile of
the gods on the fortunate possessor. Among the
Romans its popularity is a matter of history.
During the last century it lost caste because of
its ill-omened reputation of being an unlucky
stone, reputed to bring misfortunes to the wearer;
but this superstition is disappearing, and the beau-
tiful gem is again coming into general favor. It
is unsuited for settings in rings, however, as it
is liable to injury from contacSl with water, or
oily substances, and in danger of cracking or los-
INDUSTRIES OF QUERETARO. I43
ing its iridescence, if exposed to sudden changes
of temperature. For other ornaments it consti-
tutes one of the most attractive of gems, and when
encircled with diamonds, hardly has it a rival in the
jeweler's art.
The polishing of the opal is done by means of
fine stones, and the Mexican is an expert in the
art. Great quantities of these stones ready for
setting may be seen in the shops of Queretaro, and
agents sell them on the streets of the city and
about the station. Some very rare gems may
often be picked up at the mines, or through an
agent, at a great bargain if the purchaser knows
how to deal with the wily Mexican, and is capable
of judging for himself of the values of his speci-
mens. ]\Iany tricks are played in order to deceive
the buyer, and unless something of an expert he
is almost certain to be caught with an inferior
stone. The price first asked, too, is always exor-
bitant, and great caution is necessary in carrying
on the whole transadlion.
The valley about Queretaro is produdtive of
wheat and corn, and cotton is raised to some ex-
tent. Two pickings a year are possible here and
in many parts of Mexico, although cotton-raising
is not nearly as extensive as it would be if the me-
chanical appliances for handling the product were
more scientifically and pra6tically construdled. At
present much of the raw material is imported
from Louisiana
144 '^'^^ LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Another industry of these regions is the grow-
ing of the maguey plant, and one of the most won-
derful produdlions natural to the soil of Mexico.
It grows to greater perfedlion and larger propor-
tions at the higher altitudes, and it is extensively
cultivated for various purposes in both the tierras
templada and tierras fria. The region westward
from the City of Mexico toward the gulf, and on
the very edge of the plateau, is most famous for
the growth of this plant, and great fields of it,
planted in concise rows, stretch out over the coun-
try for miles.
The town of Apam, about sixty miles from the
city, is the centre of the pulque district, where
the liquor fermented from the juice of the maguey
constitutes a great industry. From time imme-
morial it has been the favorite national beverage,
and is universally found in the hovels of the poor
as well as on the well-filled tables of the rich. The
plant belongs to the great ca(ftus family, and is the
same as our century plant. Maturing in ten years
in this distri 61, where it reaches an enormous height
and size, it sends up a central flower-stalk which is
cut down before coming to perfection, and a cup-
shaped incision is made into its trunk in which the
sap colle(?ts. Men then walk from plant to plant,
drawing the fluid out through tubes by sucftion, di-
verting it by reverse pressure into pig-skins strapped
to their backs. In this form it is known as honey-
water. Fermented it becomes pulque, a sour, milky
INDUSTRIES OF QUERETARO. 145
liquor, horribly like spoiled buttermilk, fearfully-
distasteful to tlie uninitiated, and very intoxicating.
The distilled juice makes the common whiskey, or
agua diente^ and other alcoholic liquors of the coun-
try. From the pulp of the maguey different grades
of paper are made, and from the fiber are manu-
fadlured twine, rope, and the large, coarse mats so
universally used by the poor for chairs by day and
beds by night, the carpet under them and the
awning over them at the market-stands. The
thorns at the tips of the leaves are formed into
needles for the poor, and the fibrous strings
stripped from the sides are used for thread. The
great, fleshy leaves are also formed into troughs,
and from the presence of ammonia in the plant-
juices ice is readily made. The fruit when al-
lowed to ripen is edible, and the plant seems to be
one of universal beneficence. In short, what the
date is to the Arab, the maguey is to the Mexican.
146 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
CHAPTER XIII.
TULA AND THE VALLEY OF MEXICO.
i" AS we are leaving the fair and liistoric city of
■^^ Queretaro the sweetly solemn strokes of the
Angclus are chiming from the many towers, each
of the forty churches taking up the refrain in
irregular succession and mingling their tones in
harmonious discord. It is the call of grace to thf
Virgin, and the good Catholic, no matter where^
nor how engaged, stops in his labor or in his
pleasure to respond to the moment of prayer.
The poor peon, loaded with his water-bottles just
filled at the plaza-fountain, the market-men and
women bearing huge baskets of vegetables and
fruits on their heads, ragged children suffering or
merry, even the cargador^ with heavy crates of
merchandise strapped to his back, under which he
is staggering to the custom-house — all these halt a
moment, lower their heavy burdens, if possible, or
with them poised on bended backs, and with their
poor, brimless or crownless hats removed, stand
with lowered eyes in obedient prayer as long as
the bells toll their saintly message. The idea is
beautiful, if it but raise their darkened minds, and
TULA AND THE VALLEY OF MEXICO. 147
bless their crushed hearts with hopes of paradise ;
but instead, their prayer is but the repetition of
meaningless words, an added superstition whose
observance will never elevate, any more than the
form of turning to the East and calling aloud to
Allah, in answer to the toscin, will elevate or
christianize the Turk. As the last tones die away
to be echoed by churches farther on, the busy
wheels of life roll onward as before; the libertine
walks on in his pleasure, the laborer resumes his
dreary way, and crime completes the task it had
impiously begun.
In the midst of these refle(5lions the morning
train, with its engine puffing and blowing, comes
thundering upon the scene. When first the iron-
ribbed, flame-breathing horse was introduced in
the country the Mexicans thought it a dire<5l vis-
itation of the devil in this terrible form, coming to
destroy them. One community, determined to
bafile this inflidlion by the power of their ^favorite
saint, took his sacred image from its shrine in the
temple and placed it triumphantly in the path of
the dreaded monster, the people meantime kneel-
ing by the wayside fervently praying, and firm in
the belief that his course would be forever checked.
Soon he comes tearing by, heeding neither ob-
stru6lion nor prayers, and they raise their heads to
find that naught remains of their worshiped saint
but a few fragments and a cloud of dust. Care-
fully collecfling these holy relics they return them
148 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
to the church with faith unshaken in their saint's
spiritual ability to answer prayer, but not anxious
to again try his physical powers against a steam-
engine.
The way from Queretaro takes us under one of
the arches of the aquedu(5l, past the Rubio mills
and across the fertile valley, and then the road be-
gins to climb up among the mountains, reaching
an elevation of more than eight thousand feet, a
little beyond Marquez. From this point it de-
scends again suddenly into the Tula valley, rich in
foliage and flowers, and dear to memory as the
place where, under the witchery of Prescott's
charming words, we lingered over the tale of this
once grand seat of the ancient civilization of the
Toltecs. The history of that primitive race is
envolved in doubt and shadowy tradition ; but it
is adjudged that they came from their northern
home more than twelve hundred years ago, and
arriving at this fair valley they commenced the
building of their city and established their empire.
Here they existed for some four centuries, when
drought, pestilence and famine dispersed their
tribes and drove them southward, only a few scat-
tered remnants remaining in the land. The Chi-
chimecs, a term applied to many rude tribes, suc-
ceeded them; and eventually the Aztecs, coming
also from the North, took up their abode here for
a century previous to their location in the valley
of Anahuac, or INIexico.
Tula and the valley oe mexico. 149
Strong evidences appear for believing that the
Toltecs were identical with the prehistoric race
once spread over large portions of the Western
Continent, and known to us as the Mound-
Builders. Undoubtedly they were a race of higher
type than any of their Indian successors, as ap-
pears from a study of their mounds and of their
interesting remains found buried within. Among
their relics have been discovered imperfedl speci-
mens of knives made from obsidian, a volcanic
produdlion only found native in Mexico. There-
fore it is argued that this ancient tribe, after
having run its course in the South, was for some
unknown reason driven northward at an age ex-
tremely remote, and that their migratory period,
of which we have the first legendary history,
represents their second coming to this region.
To the Toltecs is attributed the highest and
oldest civilization of the New World. From them
the Aztecs acquired the arts of skillfully working
gold and silver, of building, and of picture-writing.
The Toltecs were well versed in agriculture, and
introduced maize and cotton into Mexico, and
from them also came the calendar system in use
among the Aztecs until the Spanish Conquest.
With them is associated the mythical legend of
Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent, sometimes the
chief deity or God of the Air, sometimes the wise
and beneficent ruler of men. His story is of
northern origin, and by some writers he is be-
150 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
lieved to have been a Toltec sovereign; but he is
described as belonging to a different race, of fair
complexion, long, dark hair, commanding features,
flowing beard, and arrayed in ample robes. He is
reported to have dwelt among the people twenty
years, leading them to higher modes of life, oppos-
ing human sacrifices, and w^arning them against
war and ravage. Finally he departed to the land
of the unknown, as some say, but to the Atlantic
ocean according to native tradition, leaving a mes-
sage with the people that in a future age other
men will come from out the sunrise and from over
the sea to rule their nation. This legend still ex-
isted among the Aztecs when the Spaniards ap-
peared on their coast, and it was their superstitious
fear of the bearded strangers who had crossed the
sea in winged boats, that enabled the Spaniards to
gain a foot-hold in the country and finally to sub-
jugate the race.
Modern Tula was later established as an im-
portant Spanish stronghold. It is surrounded by
hills, and is a closely built little city, mostly of
stone taken presumably from the ruins of the
ancient Toltec city. In the plaza are some colos-
sal pillars rudely carved, and at the door of the
Cathedral stands a font, also a remnant of Toltec
civilization. The Cathedral is a magnificent old
edifice, one of the earliest built under Spanish
rule, bearing the date of 1553. Surrounding it is
a wall, necessary in those days for means of de-
TULA AND THE VALLEY OF MEXICO. 151
fense. There is at present little evidence of the
early importance of Tula. Only a few ruins re-
main on the neighboring hills. These resemble
the Zuiii ruins in Arizona, once a city of the
Pueblo Indians, giving rise to the theory that this
race is allied to the ancient Toltecs; but another
theory, more in harmony with the higher civiliza-
tion of the Toltecs and better grounded, according
to the later investigations in archaeology, is that
they builded these cities and dwelt therein for a
period of years during their long migratory jour-
ney southward, and then abandoned them. Other
tribes, the ancestors of the Pueblos of to-day,
sweeping westward occupied and adopted them as
their homes, and their descendants still construct
and live in these houses of many lofts. They are
builded one story above another in terraces, with
entrances in the roofs which are reached by means
of ladders that are drawn in after them, thus af-
fording a secure means of defense against the
marauding tribes of their enemies. The lower or
ground floor is never occupied by them, but is
used as a storage-place for their grains and as
stables for their cattle.
It is said to be near Tula that pulque, the
national beverage of Mexico, was first discovered,
and, according to the Indian historian, Ixtlil-
xochtl, it led to the downfall of the Toltec race.
Papantzin, one of the nobles of the kingdom, sent
his daughter with some of this beverage as a pres-
152 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
ent to his monarch, who immediately fell in love
with the fair cup-bearer, thus sowing the seeds of
discord; and during the reign of their illegitimate
son the nation was destroyed.
Onward from Tula we climb to the outer rim
of the vale of Mexico, and a scene of surpassing
loveliness unrolls before our enchanted vision.
Fields of yellow grain, separated by hedges of
maguey, stretch out around us, and over against
the sky the great fortified buildings of a hacienda
stand guard over them. Towering cacSli, tropical
plants, drooping willows and the graceful branches
of the pepper tree, their green heightened by the
rich clusters of pink and red berries that mingle
with the feathery leaves, deck the hill-sides and
fringe the open sluice-ways. The land is dotted
with lakes that give it the name of Auahuac (by
the water-side), and is indented with numerous
sun-kissed valleys green as the emerald. From
out the blue vault of heaven appear the snowy
peaks of Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl, shadowy
forms of mythical beauty in the far-off distance.
Several towns and meagre villages, enchantingly
foreign, are now and again passed; then the moun-
tains close around us and we enter the Tajo de
Nochistongo. This celebrated canal was begun by
the Spaniards nearly three centuries ago to drain
the cup-like valley of Mexico, whose lakes have
frequently overflowed and flooded the capital city.
The ancient city was a western Venice, built
TUIvA AND THE VAIyl^EY OF MEXICO. I53
on the marshy islands of Lake Tezcuco, with
causeways and canals for streets. These, however,
have long become solid ground, and the lake has
retired several miles from the city; but it is only
six feet below its pavements, even at low water,
and with every rise the city is deluged. An attempt
was made to prevent this overflow by diverting
the waters of its tributary, Lake Zumpango, lying
twenty-five feet higher at the farther end of the
valley, and in 1607 an immense tunnel over four
miles long was commenced and completed in a
year by the aid of fifteen hundred Indians.
Scarcely had the waters been converted to this
channel when it was found to be too small; the
sides began to crumble and the tunnel soon
became choked and ruined. Many efforts were
made to enlarge it into an open canal; but mean-
time a feeling of security against farther trouble
from inundations arose, and the work was aban-
doned.
The lake soon swelled with the gathering
waters, and heavy rains occurring the city was
flooded for a period of five years, causing the utter
destrudlion of much property, and terrible suffer-
ing among the lower classes. The engineer who
had advised the closing of the canal was thrown
into prison, but was finally released and com-
menced operations for controlling the waters. The
work was continued under various plans for more
than a century, being pushed energetically during
154 I'HE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
the dangerous wet seasons, but negledled in times
of drought.
The Nochistongo is now a vast cut into which
a river was turned, and the Lake Zumpango
was drained. It has never been fully completed,
however, according to the first designs, and the
other lakes still have no outlets, although they
are constantly decreasing in size through evap-
oration. The cut is about twelve miles long, with
high, sloping sides, and rather resembles a caiion
than the work of man. It offered an easy en-
trance to the valley of Mexico when the Central
Railway was building, and along the eastern bluff
a shelf was cut upon which the track was laid.
Over this dizzy, winding way the train glides,
offering a good view of this ancient work, one of
the most gigantic failures of engineering in the
whole world; and then we are full in the Valley
of Mexico, and soon at the very city gates.
THE CITY OF MEXICO. 1 55
CHAPTER XIV.
THE CITY OF MEXICO.
^T^HE noise and confusion of a great city greet
-^ us as our train enters the Central Railway
station, and we alight, filled with joy that at last
we have reached the haven of our desires, the City
of Mexico. The rumble of an out-going train,
the clash and clatter of moving baggage, the calls
of hackmen, the cries of peddlars and orders of
porters make a confusion of sounds and strange
tongues as utterly discouraging as the babel of
the bricklayers of Babylonian days. However, we
were fortunately provided with letters that gained
us every attention from the railway officials, who
courteously took us in charge, and almost before
we knew it we were on our way to pleasant quar-
ters at the^ Guardiola — smaller, but, as we were
(-. advised, far more comfortable than the far-famed
\ Hotel Iturbide. Every arrangement was made for
our comfort, and during our whole stay a kindly
assistance was given us that added greatly to our
pleasure and immeasurably to our facilities for
visiting the many places of surpassing interest in
and about this historic city. Almost every street
156 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
is sacred to tlie Muse of History, commemorating
noted events or distinguished men, from the early
days of the Montezumas to the establishment of
the Republic.
The Hotel Iturbide was once a palatial resi-
dence, the home of the Emperor Iturbide during
a period of his short reign. Thus it enjoys the
reputation of having been the abode of an em-
peror, and is accordingly chosen by travelers re-
gardless of its bare floors, hard beds, dismal rooms
and many other discomforts. It has an imposing
front, with balconies, grotesque gargoyles after the
Gothic style, and graceful carvings over the broad
entrance leading into a large court surrounded on
all sides with galleries supported by pillars. Arch-
ways lead into an inner court planted with tropical
trees and gay with flowers and dancing fountains.
Beyond, another connedling court opens through
a side entrance on the street. Galleries extend
about the courts from each story, and upon these
the rooms open. The floor in the main court is
of marble; the stair-ways are of stone, and the
floors of the rooms are of brick, and uncovered.
The walls are of such exceeding thickness that the
'dnterior gives a vault-like chill. This is a dis-
kgreeable feature of most of the buildings of the
city, and the entire absence of fires is a source of
inuch discomfort to tourists. None of the hotels
have public parlors, or reception rooms, as these
are not customary in Mexico; but the larger
THE CITY OF MEXICO. I57
chambers are provided with broad portieres that
can be drawn and thus form pleasant private
parlors.
The restaurants are conducSled separate from \
the hotels, and generally on the European plan. \
In the morning a light repast of rolls with coffee 1
or chocolate is served. The regular Mexican
breakfast comes about noon, and is a meal as
hearty as our dinners, while the meal of the day
is a full-course dinner, served from six to eight *
o'clock in the evening. The entire service of the
hotels, as well as of the restaurants, is by men |
whom we found polite and attentive, always obey-
ing promptly the oriental call of the hand-clap,
universally used instead of bells.
Already charmed with the glimpse of the city,
gained in the drive fiom the station, and the little
we could see from our windows looking out uponi"
the Guardiola park and the magnificent blue-and-
white tile house belonging to the wealthy Escan-\
don estate, we soon sallied forth on foot and en-
tered the great central plaza, or zocalo — a bower of
beauty, with clustering trees, flowers, a plashing
fountain, and gay with the varied life of the centre
of a great city. All the streets converge to this
square ; all the tramways start from here ; and on
the streets surrounding it are most of the govern-
ment and municipal buildings, besides the great
Cathedral of all Mexico, standing in all its beauty
and grandeur at the head of the plaza.
158 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
The ancient tcocalli^ or temple to the fearful
war-god of the Aztecs, once stood here. As de-
scribed by the historian of Cortes' time, Bernald
Diaz, it was a terraced pyramid, upon whose sum-
mit were sacrificed thousands of human vidlims
every year. During the fearful struggle of the
Spanish forces and their allies the city was totally
destroyed, and this temple razed to the ground.
A few years later, under the governorship of
the successful General, Cortes, a new temple was
built on the same site ; but this was found to be too
small, and the following century it was torn down,
and the present magnificent stru6lure was ere6led,
at the enormous expense, in those days, of two
million dollars. It is Hispano-Moorish in design,
built in the shape of a cross, the front arms of
which rise in two noble towers terminating in
bell-shaped cupolas, each surmounted by a cross.
The facade is heavily carved in graceful, ecclesias-
tic figures, and the central nave is over-arched
with a huge dome. The whole is massively im-
pressive, yet so artistically graceful as to charm
one like a fascinating poem. The interior breathes
the spirit of a great requiem, beautiful and grand,
but intensely sad. The space is so broken into side-
chapels by great intersecfting arches that reach to
the vaulted roof supported by immense stone pil-
lars, and by the ornate choir and altars, that it
is the beauty and grandeur rather than the vast-
ness of the interior that impress one. There are
THE CITY OF MEXICO. 1 59
fourteen side-cliapels, divided from the main body
of the church by heavy railings or gates. These
are dedicated to the different saints whose relics
they contain, or to some illustrious ruler of the
past.
In one of these chapels is the tomb of the
Emperor Iturbide, as indicated by an inscription
on the sarcophagus. Many contain beautiful
paintings by the old masters, some of which are
genuine Murillos, and one, in another part of the
Cathedral, is said to be an original Michael
Angelo. The King's chapel at the farther end of
the church is a mar\'el of art, in brass carvings,
golden candle-sticks so heavy that no man can
lift them, images studded with precious stones,
massive crucifixes, and gold chalices, richly em-
broidered altar-cloths and gorgeous decorations of
many designs. From here to the main altar and
choir, occupying the centre of the C athedral, runs
a double railing of metals so precious that when
the Government offered to replace it with pure
silver the offer was declined. The principal light
of the church glimmers through the central dome
where, floating upon a background of celestial
blue, are groups of angels and cherubs seeming
ready to burst forth with the Gloria in Excelsis^
and forming a divine picfture expressive of a
Raphael's dream of Heaven. The choir and
organ-screens are of wood, elegantly car\'ed in
heavy bas-relief, with figures of saints and angels,
l6o THE LAND OP THE MONTEZUMAS.
and sacred texts interwoven with graceful scrolls.
At the main altar mass is celebrating and hun-
dreds of burning candles gleam like trembling
stars on high.
" The incense lamp
Burns with a struggling light, and a low chant
Swells through the hollow arches of the roof,"
in harmony with the mellow voices of the red-
gowned choral boys answering in alternate lines
the monotonous intonations of the rich-robed
priest within the sandluary. There are no seats
about the altars, nor in the church, and the people,
rich and poor together, kneel or sit upon the
marble floor. Half hidden by an arch a beautiful
seiiora is kneeling, her face shaded by the grace-
ful mantilla falling almost to the long fringes of
her drooping eyelids. From her dainty fingers,
bead by bead, a silver rosary is falling, and the
whole face and figure seem in rapt devotion.
Her companion is older and less absorbed in her
prayers. The fire of youth has burned itself out
in her deep-set eyes occasionally glancing upon
los Americanos. There are a few other men and
women of the higher class to be seen here, but
the worshipers are mostly poor peons, or beggars.
Some are on their way to the market with great
baskets of vegetables, which they leave here or
there on the floor while they murmur a prayer,
or kneel before some father-confessor to be ab-
solved from their sins. Many drop in only long
THE CITY OF MEXICO. l6l
enough to make a geniifledlion at the main altar,
or to mutter a petition to the Virgin, and then
pass on their way to their labors or their crimes,
as the case may be.
Adjoining the Cathedral is the Sagrario, or
parish chapel. It is of a lighter and more fanciful
style of archite(5lure. The whole front is a marvel
of elaborate carvings, almost barbarous in its
massive elegance. Over the high-arched entrance
is a statue of the Virgin with the infant Jesus in
her arms, and worshiping women at her feet. At
a greater height is the figure of Our Saviour, and
in other spaces the engraven images of bishops,
and saints, and angels. The heavy doors are of
wood in bas-relief carvdngs, and are always open,
one service following another from early dawn
until the close of day.
Across the plaza to the left is the national '
palace, the White House of Mexico. It is ex-
tremely plain, two stories high, with a frontage 1
of more than six hundred feet, and an entire
length of twenty-eight hundred feet. It contains
innumerable rooms, the oSicial apartments of the
President, the rooms of his ministers and of the
military commanders, the treasury rooms and the
meteorological department. The barracks are
located here, and the soldiers on duty called a
halt to our venturesome party and barred our
way with crossed muskets, a motion that aided
us to comprehend their orders. We obeyed, but
l62 THE IvAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
we came again, this time under escort, and with a
pass to all the public portions of the building.
The Salla de Embajadorcs on the second floor,
facing the plaza, is a magnificent hall five hundred
feet long. Here the President meets the embassa-
dors of the different countries on official business.
His chair occupies a platform at one end of the
great chamber. Dire6lly opposite, at the farther
end in the place of honor, hangs a life-size painting
of George Washington, whom the Mexicans rever-
ence almost as much as we. Full-length portraits
of past Mexican rulers or heroes decorate the
side walls, with candelabra and statues between.
The history of the famous men whose pictures
comprise this distinguished gallery is strikingly
incongruous with their present honorable posi-
tions, for almost every hero represented here
either fell fighting against his country, or was
shot or banished by those in power. It is said
that Juarez was the first Mexican ruler who was
permitted to die a natural death, and it is thought
that even he was poisoned.
• The roof of the palace is flat, and provided
with a railing, affording a desirable place for ob-
servation. The city spreads itself out on all sides
as wc stand looking down into the plaza below,
and then out over the sea of flat roofs, from which
stately church-towers rise at many points. The
heights of Chapultepec, and the Guadalupe Cathe-
dral on a rising knoll, are plainly visible. Many
THE CITY OP MEXICO. 163
touches of green, and many beautiful vistas of far-
stretching streets and drive-ways appear, and in
the distance are glimpses of suburban villages.
Every view closes with dim and purpling mount-
ain rims, and off to the south-east are seen the
ever-beautiful forms of the two volcanoes, Popo-
catapetl and Ixtaccihuatl.
On Sunday morning an added stir is noticea-
ble. The streets of the great city teem with the
life of its three hundred thousand souls. The
houses of the rich and the huts of the poor alike
have emptied themselves into the streets like bees
pouring from their hives on the first warm days of
spring-time. Constant surprises greet us on every
hand, one source of amusement to us being the
curious custom that prevails here of giving fanciful \
and ludicrous names to the different places of busi- j
ness, especially to cheap stores and liquor stands. 1
Evefy-where may be seen over the doors of such
shops Spanish signs signifying "The Angel of
Mercy," "The Harbor of Peace," "The Saint's
Blessing," "The Happy Retreat," and other allur-
ing names to these places of vice.
In company with a motley throng we make a
second visit to the Cathedral, and there listen to a
beautiful voluntary on the grand organ, and thence
we visit the markets of the city. No worthy pidlure
can be drawn of that mingled scene of misery and
easy comfort, of sweet-scented, bright-hued flowers
in close contrast with coarse vegetables, dainty
164 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
fruits from the tropical lands side by side with the
hardier fruits of the temperate climes, meats cooked
and uncooked, and merchandise of everv description
from a spool of thread to mesquite-wood and house-
hold furniture.
Gay songsters and brilliant tropical birds in
little wooden cages, hardly larger than the birds
imprisoned, are here offered for sale by bright-
eyed lads ; shell-paroquets for mi medio apiece (six
and a quarter cents), dainty canaries and great
yellow-and-red-topped parrots, whose talking ca-
pacities are vouched for almost too readily to be
accredited, are here peddled for a song. Indeed,
not only the speech-accomplishments of these
birds but also the brilliancy of their plumage can-
not be relied upon, for, we are warned, these inno-
cent-appearing venders have the art of dyeing the
feathers to seeming perfedlion, charming the un-
suspe6ling tourist into buying some of these ex-
quisite fledgelings, only to learn in a few weeks
that their bright-hued pets begin to lose their fine
feathers and become sorry sights indeed.
Whole families gather here for the day's sale,
from the never-absent baby in anns, or rather in
the folds of its mother's rebosa, to the lord and
master in cotton drawers, in serape and sombrero.
They seat themselves on a mat, upon which also is
piled the entire stock in trade, whatever it may be.
Another mat is propped over their heads for an
awning, and every individual of the group is either
THE CITY OF MEXICO. 1 65
smoking or munching didces^ or the nearest ap-
proach to those sweetmeats, a tlaco's worth of
sugar-cane. The noonday meal of tortillas and
rank beans is brought with them, and if trade is
good, a few sizzling-hot pieces of refuse meat, sold
by venders in the market, are added to sweeten
the repast.
In one corner is a band of Aztecs calling out
their wares in their own unique dialedl, which
seems to depend upon the amount of prolongation
given to the vowel sounds for variations of mean-
ing. One weird, half-clad woman is holding up
by the heels a meagre-looking fowl that she has
just dressed, throwing the refuse in a heap by her
side, and is calling out in long, monotonous tones
something to the eflfedl that "this is the last
chance to buy; no more in market," in spite of
the fa(ft that diredlly behind her stands her crate
still half-filled with cackling chickens. Verily,
here is a civilization older than our own!
One of the most disgusting sights was that of
a vender of cheap, raw meats. He wore only a
breech-cloth, and upon his back was a great crate
filled with meats, from which streams of blood ran
down over his bare legs and bespattered his whole
body. Turning from this revolting scene we were
glad enough to dissipate its remembrance by pur-
chasing a great cluster of roses and masses of fra-
grant violets, offered for a mere pittance and could
have been bought for less. A crowd of boys im-
l66 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
mediately began to rival one another in soliciting
the privilege of carrying them to the hotel, for it is
contrary to fashionable custom to carry a package,
or even a bouquet, on the street in Mexico. With
charadleristic American independence however, we
dared to brave the custom, and carried the flowers,
and even some fruit, back with us, and lost caste
accordingly.
<. The next place of interest to be visited on a
Sunday morning is the Alameda, a beautiful park,
where a delightful promenade concert is given
under its giant trees from eleven until one every
Sunday. After attending High Mass in their re-
spedlive cathedrals the elite of the city gather here
to meet their friends and listen to the music.
There are four orchestras stationed at different
points, and they, in turn, flood the air with music
bright as the sunshine, while at the same time
family parties, and friends, and strangers stroll
through the winding walks, exchanging greetings
and passing sallies. The men are arrayed in fault-
less black, as conventional in attire as the Parisian
gentleman or the New York dude. The women
still wear the mantillas for morning calls and early
mass, but for more ceremonious occasions they
have unfortunately departed from this most fasci-
nating style of head-dress, and have adopted the
Frenchicst of French hats, generally choosing those
with gracefully drooping feathers, beneath which,
however, the flashing eyes may play havoc as be-
THE CITY OP MEXICO. 1 67
fore. The Mexican ladies universally have dainty (
hands and feet, the latter encased in fancy slippers \
or shoes, as attradlive as embroidered and stitched
kid or satin can make them.
After a hearty breakfast, and a siesta, the , j^O
fashionable life again makes its appearance in
full-dress parade on the grand paseo, or drive-way,
leading from the city to Chapultepec, three miles
away. The drive is two hundred feet wide, with
seven widening circles, each to contain a statue
and grass-plat, about which the drive divides.
Only three of these circles have been filled as yet:
one with an imposing equestrian statue in bronze
of Carlos IV., which Humboldt declares to have
but one equal in the world, that of Marcus
Aurelius, in Rome ; another circle is occupied with
a noble statue of Christopher Columbus; the third
with that of Guatemozin, the last of the Aztec
rulers; while the fourth, by the irony of fate, is to
contain a bust of his conqueror, Cortes.
Between five and six o'clock in the eveninsf
orchestras are stationed along the drive-way, and
the great world of fashion sweeps its hundreds
of fine equipages and richly caparisoned horses
back and forth. Gay cavaliers in full Mexican
attire, still the height of fashion for equestrians,
dash between the vehicles on their fiery steeds,
riding with the native grace of an Arab, bowing
compliments, and exchanging with the fair occu-
pants of the carriages, as they whirl by, that
1 68 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
charming, little, Mexican salute that speaks from
the fingers. The broad, shaded walks along the
way are provided with occasional groups of seats,
and these are filled to overflowing with crowds of
the poorer classes, their children racing to and fro
in full enjoyment. Even the dulce-venders, yea,
and the beggars, seem to partake of the holiday
gayeties, and to delight in the joyousness of the
merry throng, and to drink in the sweet strains of
harmony floating on the air. The soul of the
meanest Mexican responds with natural impulse
to the power of music, to him a word synonymous
i with happiness. Deprived of music and the bull-
; fight, the countr}^ would soon resume its other
igreat sources of amusement — revolution and riot.
I Their fiery, southern natures must have the pas-
sion for excitement satisfied with music, or drugged
with the play, gambling and bull-fights, or — the
pronunciamento.
The fondness for riding and driving is strong.
There is a fierce pride, too, among Mexican aristo-
crats that makes them economize, even to positive
suffering in the privacy of their homes, that they
may keep up this display in public. As we drove
out of the city with this throng of elegance and
fashion we could but wonder how many aching
hearts were hidden under this semblance of pleas-
ure and serenity. Perhaps their cares and their
grievances, however, are left at home, locked
within their gates, and only the pleasures of liv-
THE CITY OF MEXICO. 1 69
ing brought to the light of day. Surely thus it
seems, as smiles and swift glances flash like elec-
tric currents from carriage to caballero. The ex-
citement communicates itself to our cooler natures,
and we long for a bow from one of these princely
riders. Ah! the wish is gratified. We are recog-
nized by a gentleman we met yesterday, thinking
him then only a commonplace IMexican; now he
is transformed into a knightly Don Camillo. Both
rider and steed are gorgeous, the former in velvet
and buckskin, with rich adornings of silver cord
and buttons from the broad sombrero to the spurs
upon his boots, and about his waist a brilliant-col-
ored scarf. The horse prances under silver-laden
trappings and beautiful saddle elaborately stitched
and trimmed with gleaming tassels. The saddle-
cloth is of fur, with long, sweeping hair reaching
almost to the ground. With courtly elegance the
rider lifts his sombrero and reins in his champing
steed an instant, as he gracefully expresses, with
complimentary Mexican politeness, "the exceed-
ing pleasure he feels from his heart" to see us
enjoying their favorite drive.
One thing that strikes us particularly is the
fadl that many of the finest carriages are drawn
by cream-colored mules instead of horses; and we
are told that it is usual for families, able to afford
the luxury, to keep a span of both, as they are de-
voted to their horses and never use them when out
of trim, the mules then supplying their places;
170 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
and it is really surprising to see how well they
look when properly groomed and handsomely har-
nessed.
We are now sweeping under double rows of
over-arching trees, and nearing the foot of Chapul-
tepec, whose noble groves of moss-draped cypress-
es have sheltered the heads of Mexico from Monte-
zuma to Diaz. But the sun is fast setting, and the
chill air of evening warns us to return , and impa-
tiently we await the morrow, when we are prom-
ised a visit to this historic home of many rulers.
GUADALUPE AND CHAPULTEPEC. 17I
CHAPTER XV.
GUADALUPE AND CHAPULTEPEC.
^T^WO excursions are planned for to-day, the first
■^ being a visit to the Cathedral of Our Lady of
Guadalupe, and the early morning finds us on our
way to this famous shrine. Business is generally
carried on here in the mornings and late in the
afternoons, a siesta being taken at noon, and sight-
seeing is best conducted in the same manner, a rest
being needful during the heat of the day.
In company with a friend, who has kindly of-
fered to be our guide, we take the Guadalupe cars
at the plaza and are on our way, listening, as we
journey, to the legend conne(fled with the building
of the church. It appears that in the early days
of Catholicism among the Aztecs an Indian was
working upon this mount, when suddenly the Vir-
gin, dark like himself, but arrayed in shining white
robes, and standing within a bended rainbow, ap-
peared before him. The Virgin announced herself
as the Lady of Guadalupe, friend and patriot here-
after of all Indians coming into the holy fold of the
Church. She also told him to go to the Bishop of
Mexico and make known to him her appearance,
172 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
and inform him of her desire that he build a church
there in her honor. The Indian brought the mes-
sage to the Bishop as diredled, who, however, dis-
credited the story. On returning, the Indian was
again met by the Virgin, who immediately caused
rare and beautiful flowers to spring up at her touch,
and these she sent to the Bishop with her former
message; but again the Indian was disbelieved.
A third time the Virgin appeared to the Indian,
and touching his serape, she left her sacred image
upon it, and also caused a spring of healing waters
to flow from the solid rock by the stamping of her
foot. This time the evidence was convincing, and
the marveling Bishop added his blessing to the
miraculous spring, and ordered the chapel to be
built.
This legend was a powerful agent in the hands
of the Church for converting the Aztecs. To this
day these superstitious creatures come from great
distances, on pilgrimages to the sacred shrine, to
drink of the healing waters. Churches to the honor
of the Patriot of the Indians have been eredled
throughout the country, but this, the mother-church,
is the most noted of them all. The chapel stands
on the top of a rocky hill, up whose face winds a
steep, rough road, with a walk and railing along its
side. We find the ascent, even with this assistance,
quite difficult, yet we pass numbers of poor Mexi-
can pilgrims crawling upon their hands and knees
up this rugged road, as penance or petition to their
GUADALUPE AND CHAPULTEPEC. I73
Patron, wliose altar tliey have vowed to visit in
this way. One poor fellow has evidently over-
stimulated his piety by the aid of the much-loved
pulque, for here he lies face down on the side of
the road, as much dead to all things about him as
he will be when in his grave. On the twelfth of
December of each year there is a grand pilgrimage
to this shrine in honor of the Virgin, this day being
supposed to be the anniversary of her traditional
appearance. The Indians come from the far inte-
rior towns, swelling the number of petitioners in
and about the city, and thus form a great peniten-
tial procession.
The grand Cathedral of Guadalupe, built after
the chapel had become too small for the many
worshipers, stands on the brow of the hill. From
the terrace in front of its entrance there is a de-
lightful view of the City of Mexico and the sur-
rounding valley. It is a magnificent edifice of
stone, with the usual elaborate carvings over the
arched portals and on the towers, and the interior
decorations are exceedingly rich, the church being
very wealthy. The altars are adorned with won-
derful combinations of color, carvings, statues and
decorations. The chandeliers are of solid gold and
the altar-railings of solid silver, for which the
Church has refused a full million of dollars.
Going on from the Cathedral we come to a
fancy pavilion, the Casa Choncas, a resting-place
for pilgrims, its several grotto-like rooms being
174 'I'H^ LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
encased with a mosaic of colored glass and shells.
The work is done by common Mexican laborers
who imbed the various pieces in cement, working
out the patterns of their own design as they pro-
ceed. Sacred subjedls, conventional figures, birds
and beasts are here represented, one side wall be-
ing almost covered with the Mexican emblem, an
eagle sitting on a cadlus, and holding a snake in
its mouth. Altogether it is a curious and unique
form of decoration.
Proceeding to the old chapel we meet a group
of pilgrims who, we are informed, are pure Aztecs
from a village about two hundred miles distant.
They know but little Spanish, and among them-
selves speak Aztec only. Their features are more
markedly Indian than those of the mestizos; their
complexion is a reddish bronze, their hair black,
coarse and straight, the women wearing it in two
short, close plaits, while the men wear theirs in
straggling locks, all being bare-footed and scantily
dressed. In the chapel we find a curious and het-
erogeneous colledlion of crutches, and these the
faithful believe to have been left here by cripples
who have gone away whole, restored by the mirac-
ulous power of Our Lady of Guadalupe. Here,
too, is a case of miniature arms and legs, in silver,
given by those who have had these members
cured, in token of their gratitude. There are also
numerous crude pidlures, representing all forms of
accidents, runaways, stage-coach robberies, ship-
GUADALUPE AND CHAPULTEPEC. 175
wrecks, and murderous attacks — all on the brink
of destrudlion, when the timely intervention of
the Virgin saves them from all harm. Over the
bluff from the Cathedral is a large stone mast built
by a sailor who was caught off the coast of Vera
Cruz in a fearful norther, and almost driven upon
the rocks, when he made a vow to the Blessed
Lady that if she would save him he would eredl
to her honor a ship of stone on this sacred site.
His vessel lived the storm, but either his piety or
his purse failed him before the stone ship was
completed, and only the mast stands to testify to
his good intentions, and to the miracle performed
in his behalf.
The most sacred possession of the old chapel,
and an objecl of reverential worship by the na-
tives, is the scrape of the Indian with a pretentious
image of the Virgin stamped upon it. There are
other superstitious pidlures here and there, and a
gaudily trimmed altar withal. In an anteroom to
the chapel ribbons are for sale, reputed to be the
exa6l size of the Virgin's head. How this meas-
urement was obtained does not appear, neverthe-
less they are believed by the masses to be of
great efificacy in warding away both danger and
disease; and the Indians buy and wear them with
the same blind faith with which in former times
they wore stone charms of serpents and other re-
pellent animals.
Now we visit the sacred spring, covered with a
176 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
well-wrought stone pavilion. The water is strong-
ly mineral, clear and sparkling, and gushes up in
a considerable stream. Invalids from all parts of
the country come here to drink of the healing
fountain, said to be particularly remedial in rheu-
matism, gout, neuralgia and kindred troubles, pro-
vided, always, that the waters be used with proper
faith. If, therefore, any one is not cured by these
measures, the failure is laid at his own door, and
not to the inefficiency of the means. Jars and jars
of this miraculous water are carried away daily;
and here comes a knot of poor, credulous peons,
lugging off a bath-tub filled with it, in the hope of
relieving some fellow-sufferer.
Just behind the church is a very old grave-yard
containing the tombs of many ancient Spanish
heroes. Santa Anna, one of the distinguished pres-
idents of the Republic, lies here. Farther on, a
considerable town, Guadalupe Hidalgo, surmounts
the hill, and is the home chiefly of Mexican arti-
sans and laborers.
On our return to the city we visited the great
church of Santa Domingo, near which stands the
famous Inquisition building, where, under the rigid
Spanish dominion of the Church, numbers of here-
tics were put to the torture in her zeal to force them
into her fold. This building is now a College of
Medicine; and when it was remodeled some of the
thick, double walls were torn down, disclosing a
ghastly sight and unfolding a horrible tale. In
>
o
w
o
Q
>
J-'
GUADALUPE AND CHAPULTEPEC. 177
them were discovered skeletons of vi6linis who had
evidently been sealed up there alive, years ago, and
left to die. This Santa Domingo plaziiela is sup-
posed to be the spot where the Aztecs first com-
menced the building of their city, and a large stone
stands here, representing the legendary story of its
origin :
When wandering in the valley they were ad-
vised, as the legend reads, to seledl as a site for
their city a spot indicated by an eagle sitting upon
a cadtus, with a snake in his beak. This was no
uncommon sight in a land of eagles, snakes and
cadli ; but these superstitious people accepted it as
a heavenly token, and faithfully and promptly set-
tled where they first saw the phenomenon. This
grouping of the eagle, snake and cadlus, after the
oracular design, is still the coat-of-arms of Mexico,
and appears on the national flag, and on the coins
of the country.
Early in the afternoon, calling a passing cab,
and cabs are of three grades in the City of Mexico,
the first carrying a blue flag, the second a red and
the third a white flag, and running at the respedlive
rates of one dollar, seventy-five cents, and fifty cents
an hour, we are soon on our way to the Castle of
Chapultepec. The grand paseo is now not thronged
with equipages and dashing horsemen, and there is
a better opportunity for noting the beauties of the
drive as it sweeps on its level way, broken only by
the circular plats. Underneath noble trees we ride,
178 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
looking out between them upon as fair a land as the
world contains. Off on either side are the stately
stone arches of the grand old aquedudls built by
the Spaniards to supply the city with water, the
one leading from the heights of Chapultepec, the
other stretching out to the mountains nine miles
in the distance. The dripping archways are moss-
and lichen-grown, and often fringed with feathery
ferns, their soft green strongly contrasting with the
gray stone-work crumbling at intervals with age.
Here and there are niches prettily carved, and hold-
ing images of the Virgin. One of the aquedudls
extends nearly into the heart of the city, the other,
now being torn down to be replaced with under-
ground pipes, ends at San Cosme in the outskirts,
both terminating in great walled basins encased
with stone carv'ed in the perfedlion of architecflural
beauty. Emanating from these pretentious endings
of the great aqueducts, pipes carry the water to
numerous fountains scattered over the city, whence
the aguadores distribute it to the houses.
Turning from the paseo we enter the massive
iron gates of Chapultepec, under guard of a few
sentinels, and we wind on under entwining boughs
of gigantic cypress trees, many centuries old, their
broad arms heavily draped with long festoons of
gray, feathery moss, moving shadow-like in the
faint breeze. The mournful stateliness of these
monarchs of the forest, and the darkling depths of
the wide-spread grove, impress one with a myste-
GUADALUPE AND CHAPULTEPEC. 1 79
rious sadness, as if the spirits of the dead rulers,
who once loved to wander in this earthly paradise,
have imbued it with a peaceful yet intangible sor-
row. To our left is Montezuma's tree, the largest
in the grove, a giant with a girth of forty-six feet,
and whose gnarled and tangled branches tower to
a height of one hundred and seventy feet. Under
the shade of this mighty cypress, it is said, the
Aztec Emperor was accustomed to meet his coun-
selors. His favorite castle occupied the site of the
present one, which in various forms has been the
palatial home of his conquerors from that day to
this. The unfortunate Maximilian and his Queen,
with their fine, artistic tastes, better adapted to the
indulgence of les belles arts than to the mastery of
the warring fadlions of the country they sought to
rule, greatly improved and remodeled the castle,
adding much to the beauty of its surroundings.
It still, however, bears unmistakable evidences of
its great antiquity. Montezuma's bath still stands,
a charming bit of ruins. A shrubbery-grown open-
ing into a deep cave hints of the dark times when
this may have been a place of refuge or a chamber
for buried treasures. As we climb higher, plats
of bright flowers dot the green, and the silvery
sheen of a lakelet, bordered with glorious lotus lil-
ies, glistens through the trees, glad with refledled
sunshine. Twittering birds — gay touches of mov-
ing color — flutter among the branches. And now
we wind still higher, until we emerge from the
l8o THE IvAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
forest, and are again in the full sunlight. Fountains
dance and flowers bloom in varied fragrance and
in brilliant hues, both nature and art combining to
make this one of the garden spots of the world.
I' A monument to the brave defenders of their
■ country against American invasion in 1847 stands
on the hill, and off below lie the battle-fields of
Cherubusco and Contreras, whose bloody scenes
the Mexicans have generously forgotten since the
treaty of peace signed at Guadalupe Hidalgo. As-
cending the broad steps we find ourselves on an
extensive stone esplanade, guarded by a senti-
nel marching up and down in front of the iron
gate. As we enter he cries out with a military
ring a Spanish call, signifying "Some one enters
the gates ! " This call is repeated in turn by the
sentinels farther on. It is a startling salute to one
unprepared for such an announcement.
Chapultepec is the West Point of Mexico, ac-
commodating some three hundred and fifty cadets
and officers, coming from the best families of the
Republic, and given a course of seven years, ably
fitting them for posts of future responsibility.
A part of the castle, separate from the Military
Academy, has been elegantly refitted for the use
of President Diaz. Leading to the two buildings
is a massive stair-way branching in either direc-
tion into flights, each resting on a natural arch
without supports — a beautiful piece of architedl-
ure. The top of the castle is suggestive of the
GUADALUPE AND CHAPULTEPEC. l8l
historic Hanging Gardens of Babylon, ornamented
as it is with lovely exotic plants and flowers, and
tropical trees and delightful shrubbery, among
which are bubbling fountains, statues in marble,
and figures in bronze to complete the scene. Im-
ported Italian marble forms the stair-way, and in
the balconies alternate squares of Puebla and Ital-
ian marbles are combined with rich effe6l.
The crowning glory of all is the magnificent
view of the surrounding landscape, so exquisite
that one's eyes fill with tears in the intensity of
delight that comes from gazing upon the glorious
scene. The entire valley lies like a master-pi(5lure
spread out before us. In the midst is the City of
Mexico, its closely clustering roofs dominated by
stately towers and richly tiled domes, its proud
streets diverging into many tree-embowered ave-
nues and then into dusty roads, like golden tracer-
ies crossing the soft and variegated green enamel
of the field and meadow. Here and there the sun-
touched waters of the lakes gleam in reflected
beauty. Tiny villages, miniature copies of the
noble city, dot the landscape, every-where out-
lined on the horizon with a blue and purple trace
of distant mountains, except where the two proud
peaks raise their royal heads into the blue sky.
Popocatapetl, the Smoking Mountain, is still a live
volcano, although quiescent, only emitting at times
a vapory smoke above its snow-enwrapped crater.
Ixtaccihuatl, the Woman in White, derives its name
1 82 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
from the appearance of its accumulated snows,
looking like the form of a sleeping maiden lying
supine, with her hands crossed upon her breast,
her white robes sweeping across the mountain-
top, her flowing hair curling off into the azure
heavens. The twin peak stands a towering sen-
tinel, like a god, guarding her everlasting sleep,
and the silent valley lies at their feet in wondering
worship.
According to a beautiful tradition among the
Indians: These two volcanoes were once living
beings, in the early years of the world, a giant
and his spouse. The Supreme Deity became of-
fended at some of their deeds and changed them
into these huge mountains. He struck the giant-
ess dead, and there she lies to this day, stretched
silent and cold upon her bier, clothed in glistening
white. The giant was merely rooted fast to the
spot, where he could contemplate his loved com-
panion; and there he was wont to express his
indignation and his grief by fiery floods of lava-
tears, and by pouring forth volumes of smoke.
The affrighted Indians thus recognized him as
Tlaloc, the God of Storms, or Popocatapetl, the
Hill that Smokes. In his agonies he has up-
stirred the whole world with his emotions.
As lie shakes the celestial locks
Of his immortal head,
All Olympus is shaken.
MEXICAN MYTHOLOGY. 183
CHAPTER XVI.
MEXICAN MYTHOLOGY.
a WJ'E shall go to the Museum this morning," {
announces our friend and guide, stepping 1
in upon us as we are finishing the modest, early- \
morning liieal customary in Mexico; and soon we
are wandering down along the street to the beau-
tiful court of .the National Museum. A mine of
incalculable wealth here opens to the archaeologist, j
for here are coUecfled and preserved the relics of the
oldest civilization of the New World. The wonder-
ful Calendar Stone of the Aztecs is here, together
with their Sacrificial Stone, their horrible idols and
a few pi6lure-writings — all the mass of relics that
fortunately escaped the unsparing hand of the
Spanish bishop, Zumarraga. With the iniquity of
a zealous bigot, blind to all interests save those of
a jealous Church, he made a bonfire of all that he
found of the pi6lure-writings portraying the early
growth of this people, or giving the accounts of
their myths and legends, that would have been of
priceless value to students of history and mythology
— now buried in impenetrable darkness. It was a
sin as unpardonable and a loss almost as great as
184 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
the burning of the Alexandrian library by the Sara-
cen invaders, who held that if it contained the doc-
trines of the Koran it was useless, and if it con-
tained any other it was pernicious, hence in either
case it should be destroyed.
Fortunately many of the relics of the Aztecs
were of an almost indestru(5lible nature, and still
remain to testify to the high civilization and pow-
er of this people before the Conquest. The ques-
tion as to whence came this race, so far above the
other North American tribes, is one that has puz-
zled archaeologists from the earliest researches to
the present day. "It is the riddle of the Sphinx,"
says Prescott, "which no CEdipus has yet had the
ingenuity to solve."
Current among themselves is the belief that
they came down from the North; and the resem-
blance of many of their myths and religious rites
to those of some of the Asiatic tribes would seem
to point toward an emanation from that cradle of
civilization lying somewhere in central or western
Asia. There seems also to be a tinge of Egyptian
influence among them, notably in their archite(5lur-
al remains and in some of their hieroglyphic char-
acters, which awakens interest in the theory of the
Lost Atlantis. The most likely conne6lion, how-
ever, is with the Mongolian tribes, featured some-
what like them, and with a curious similarity in
many of their customs and manners, such as the
ceremonies of marriage, and the manner of dispos-
MEXICAN MYTHOLOGY. 185
ing of the dead by burning the body and then col-
ledling the ashes in a vase, with the peculiar addi-
tion in every case of a single precious stone.
There is also a very remarkable analogy in the
mechanical forms of their chronological systems.
The Mongolians, for example, divided time into
cycles of years designated by names of animals in
groups taken in regular succession. The Aztecs,
likewise, used animal symbols in the same way to
indicate their divisions of time, and four of the
twelve were the same on both continents; three
others differed only in the species found in their
respedlive countries; and the remaining five were
of animals whose genus was not common to the
two climes.
On the other hand, some scientists hold that
the seeming strange anomalies of language, and
the total ignorance of many of the most simple
and useful arts and sciences of the Orientals, are
almost unreconcilable with the belief in Asiatic
influence. Reading by the light that evolution
has thrown upon the world they would seem to
hint toward the possibility of the spontaneous
and independent origin and development of the
human species in countries far removed from
each other, or, at any rate, to place the connec-
tion between them at a period too remote to be
of material influence. But the subje(5l is of so
speculative a nature that in the words of Hum-
boldt, "The general question of the first origin
l86 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
of the inhabitants of a continent is beyond the
limits prescribed to history, perhaps even beyond
the realms of philosophy."
The mythology of any country is the natural
outgrowth of the desire of thinking beings to un-
derstand the beginnings of things, together with
the recognition of superhuman powers, and an in-
nate tendency to give these powers visible expres-
sion and worship. The theories of the origin of
myths are variously explained. Max Muller con-
siders them to be diseases of language arising
from the over-richness in synonyms. Thus Zens
is traced to a word in Aryan meaning sky^ used
synonymously with all words expressive of the
various phenomena of the heavens; and to the
sky-god came to be applied, therefore, all the at-
tributes thence suggested. Herbert Spencer con-
siders language to be but one fa6tor in the prob-
lem. Recent investigations place it altogether out
of the realm of philology, and give myths a nat-
ural origin in the early savagery of every people,
their closeness to nature making a common broth-
erhood between them and the animal kingdom,
and even the inanimate objedls about them thus
personified into living, self-conscious beings.
The fundamental laws of nature and the forces
beyond their comprehension were explained by
mythical causes and by imaginary circumstances
acceptable to their undeveloped minds, although
seeming ridiculous and ofttimes horrible to our
MEXICAN MYTHOLOGY. 1 87
more iiitelledlual age. Thus arose the stories of
how cosmos sprang from chaos; how light came,
and darkness ; how the heavens were created, and
the sea; how the earth was first clothed in verd-
ure, and how animated; and whence came the
first man. Thus were born the primitive ideas of
a future state, together with thoughts on the
where, and the why, and the how of the won-
drous phenomena of nature. Bits of early history
were interwoven with traditionary lore, and the
heroes of the past became the revered gods of the
future. Thus the whole frame-work of heathen
religion, with its various rites, and beliefs, and
manners of worship, grew just as the people grew.
As the wild trees of the forest, crowded and
warped into gnarled and hideous forms, are of
hardier growth than the cultivated trees of the
field and garden, so too these people, not yet
having attained the period of high mental and
moral culture, were addidled to the most horrible,
religious rites, and given to the most degrading
beliefs and superstitious customs, and at the same
time were more devoted to their faith.
Mexican mythology is essentially barbarous
and polytheistic. There seems to have been two
distindlive opinions of the origin of things, the
more advanced acknowledging one Great Spirit,
higher than all others, by whom the world was
made, the other afhrming that there were several
equally powerful deities who were instrumental
l88 THE IvAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
in creation. That the Sun and the Moon should
have been worshiped in this land of resplendent
sunshine and glorious moonlight is most natural.
It is natural, too, that an eclipse of either of these
luminaries should have caused great alarm. The
Tlascalans personified the Sun and Moon as hus-
band and wife, and they read in the darkness of
an eclipse evidences of quarrels in their house-
hold, and which would spread woe and disaster,
famine and fever, upon the land, unless amicably
settled.
Certain stars were especially sacred, and the
beautiful planet Venus was adored as the first
light that came into the world. Comets were
given names signifying smoking-stars, and their
coming presaged evil. The wind was looked
upon as a god, or as the Divine Breath. There
were gods of waters and gods of the woodlands,
gods of the valleys and gods of the mountains,
a goddess of goodness and a god of evil, a god-
dess of sowing and of reaping, goddesses of flow-
ers, of fruit, of beauty and of love, gods of sleep
and of dreams, gods of the birds and beasts, and
various other nature-spirits to whom wayside-
shrines were eredled. Fire was held in great
reverence, and was kept constantly burning in
the temples, one of the most solemn religious
ceremonies being its renewal at the close of each
cycle of fifty-two years, called the year-binding.
All fires were extinguished at this time, and the
MEXICAN MYTHOI.OGY. 1 89
people watched with superstitious awe the relight-
ing of the sacred flame by the priests asseni'
bled on the hill-top. At' the propitious moment
the igniting spark was drawn on the breast of the
prepared vicftim. The fire then flashed up, and
swift messengers carried torches, lighted by the
holy spark, to the various temples and houses.
Another festival of note was that of Tezcatli-
poca. One of the handsomest captives of the year
was chosen to represent this god. He was sumptu-
ously fared; and for a month he was married to
four most beautiful maidens. All were garlanded
with fragrant flowers on the day of sacrifice, and
were marched through the streets to the temple,
where the captive slowly and solemnly mounted
the many steps, to be seized by the priests and
hurled upon the fatal block, where his heart was
cut out and offered to the gods, thus ending his
brief reign of pleasure.
Highest and most powerful among the Aztec
deities was the dreaded war-god, Huitzilopochtli,
whose temple was the most prominent in the an-
cient city, and whose blood-thirstiness was satiated
yearly with the life-blood of thousands of human
vidlims. His image is a great block of basalt, hide-
ously carved into a terrible face with frightful eyes,
with multiple hands, and enwrapped in a robe of
coiling serpents. After the Conquest and the de-
strudlion of the Aztec city the Spaniards buried
this horrible monster, in order to turn the people
190 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
from its worship; and it was not discovered until
some centuries later. It now stands in the Muse-
um, surrounded by numerous other idols, large and
small, and all equally shocking and grim.
The famous Aztec Calendar and Sacrificial
stones, also exhumed from the plaza, are the most
interesting objects of the colle6lion. The Calen-
dar Stone is twelve feet in diameter. Within the
first or inner circle is engraved the face of the Sun,
in crude representation. The next circle contains,
among other things, four parallelograms, indicating
the four Deaths of the Sun, or the four great Ages
of the World. The third circle contains in animal
designs the signs of the days of the month ; and in
the fourth circle the Mexican cycle of fifty-two
years is indicated in conventionally carved squares.
Four large triangular figures divide this circle into
quadrants, and are variously interpreted as repre-
senting the sun's rays, or the four cardinal points
of the compass, or the four seasons. In this circle
also are four pyramidal figures and eight squares,
which, taken with the four large triangular designs,
are supposed to indicate the sixteen hours of the
Mexican day. Surrounding all is a large, outer
zone representing the Aztec heaven, by twenty fig-
ures of their sacred flower.
The Sacrificial Stone is an immense round slab,
some three feet thick and nine feet in diameter.
On the outer rim arc groups of warriors, carved to
pidlure the many conquests of the reigning king of
r /
:'&
THP: AZTe;C CAI.ENDAR STOXK.
MEXICAN MYTHOLOGY. I9I
that time. On the upper face is sculptured the
image of the Sun. The vi6lim to be offered, as a
messenger to the gods, was thrown on this rock
and held by four priests, while a fifth, with a huge
knife of obsidian, cut open his breast, tore out his
still beating heart and offered it in sacrifice to their
favorite deity. The body was then given to the
captor and his friends, who made with it the feast
of vidlory. On this one stone were sacrificed, it is
said, sixty thousands victims in a single year.
Quetzalcoatl, whose name means the plumed
serpent, or a serpent with fine feathers, and is
applied metaphorically to some ancient ruler
revered for his merits and deified, is represented
by a cone-shaped monument of a huge, coiled
serpent, with a human head as the apex. His
most sumptuous temple was at Tula.
The few picture-writings still extant are very
curious, the earliest being mere pidlures of objedls.
For instance, Chapultepec, meaning the Hill of
the Grasshopper, is represented by a grasshopper
sitting on a hill. Wonderful progress was made
in this system, as shown by the later writings, in
which symbolic characters are used to represent
abstract ideas, thus showing the growth of the
system and its possibilities. These writings were
painted on parchment made of the maguey plant.
One choice specimen of pidlure-writing gives a
scanty history of the people, something of their
wanderings and of the founding of their city.
192 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Anotlier is tliought to tell the old story of the
flood, a legend common to almost all nations, with
only the snow-capped mountains of Popocatapetl
and Ixtaccihuatl rising from out the black waters.
The painting and preserving of the pidlure-
writings were by the priesthood, a large class in
Mexico. By them, also, were condudled the edu-
cation of the youth of the nation, and their subse-
quent training for religious or martial duties. An
order of priestesses educated the girls of rank, and
trained them in domestic and social affairs. Be-
sides the various duties of sacrifice and the elab-
orate ceremonies of the temples the priests filled
many positions of trust, and offices of state in the
empire.
Marriages among the Aztecs were contingent
upon the favorable aspe6l of the horoscopes of the
betrothed, as in many of the clans of the East.
Offerings were made, by the parents of both parties,
to certain old priestesses believed to be skilled in
astrology, whose office was to examine into the
birth-signs of the couple, and pronounce upon the
suitableness of the proposed match. In all proba-
bility the favorableness of their report depended, as
in the Oracles of ancient Greece, upon the richness
of the gifts. The ceremony was performed by the
appointed priests, and consisted in knotting to-
gether the garments of the pair, who in solemn
tread completed seven circles around the sacred
fire, throwing incense thereon and listening the
MEXICAN MYTHOLOGY. 1 93
while to the voice of the priest exhorting them to
moral living. The contra6ling parties then entered
upon fasting and penance for a period of four days,
when the ceremony was complete.
In the main hall of the Museum may be
seen the veritable shield of Montezuma the Great,
still bearing the moth-eaten remnants of its gor-
geous feather-decorations of better days. Cortes
sent it to the Emperor Charles of Spain, by whom
it was presented to the museum of Vienna, where
it remained until it was restored to Mexico by
Maximilian. An authenticated pidlure of Cortes
hangs opposite his conquering banner, whose folds
once overshadowed the empire of the Montezumas;
and here, also, is the pennon under which Hidalgo
struck the first blow for liberty from Spanish do-
minion. Here, too, we see a beautiful portrait of
Maximilian, and a table filled with the magnificent
silver service used by this short-lived Emperor
and his Queen. Their imposing state-coach is also
an objedl of interest. It was presented to Carlotta
by Louis Napoleon. The wheels were gilded, and
the whole was a mass of rich scarlet and gold,
with the royal coat-of-arms elaborately wrought
upon the doors and embroidered upon the velvet
cushions. The inside was upholstered throughout
in heavy white silk ; the cords, and fringes, and
tassels of the same. When occupied by the royal
rulers, and drawn by eight pure-white steeds it
must have presented a grand pidlure ; but now_it
194 I'HE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
stands faded and empty, a sad token of fallen
power and grandeur.
There is an interesting display of mounted
birds and beasts in the department of Natural
History; and there are cases of ornaments, amu-
lets, Aztec weapons, vases and clay images, and
little gods and big gods without number, from
Mexico and Yucatan, and knives of obsidian, a
rare volcanic glass found only in Mexico, and ex-
tensively used by the Aztecs for sacrificial and
other purposes.
When at last the rounds of this great Museum
are completed, mentally and physically weary we
emerge from the beautiful court-yard where trees,
and flowers, and interlacing vines offer us a de-
lightful contrast to the antiquities and monstrosi-
ties upon which our eyes have been for hours
feasting.
MEXICAN HISTORY. I95
CHAPTER XVII.
MEXICAN HISTORY.
TTAVING taken a glance at the mythology of
■^ Mexico, a sketch of her history naturally fol-
lows here. By the dim light of tradition we have
already traced the migratory period of the Mex-
icans, and their final wanderings into the valley of
Anahuac, where they received but scanty welcome
from the Nahua peoples already settled there. For
years the rude Aztec tribes floated about, often
subject to their more powerful neighbors. Under
the rule of the Tepanecs, in whose service they
aided in the overthrow of the Acolhuas, they be-
gan to manifest their ferocity and war-like procliv-
ities. In 1325 they established themselves in a
fixed abode and began the building of their city
on an island in Lake Tezcuco. Gradually they
rose to higher civilization and to greater power,
and before the close of the fourteenth century we
find the Aztec nation predominant in the valley of
Anahuac, and even beyond.
When Montezuma I. was crowned first Em-
peror of Mexico, in 1438, their sway extended over
the conquered peoples southward, even to the Pa-
196 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
cific, and eastward to what is now known as the
Gulf of Mexico. With a sort of religious fanat-
icism they pushed their conquering arms, not only
to wrest from their enemies territory and tribute,
but also to obtain vidlims for sacrifice to their
gods. For another hundred years their power in-
creased and their conquests continued, when sud-
denly, during the reign of Montezuma II., the
fifth King of the Aztecs, the Spaniards appeared
on their coast. They came at an auspicious mo-
ment, when a spirit of rebellion was ripening in
the land and the kingdom was weakening under
the strain of its protradled wars.
Under the leadership of the intrepid Hernando
Cortes, who made retreat impossible by the destruc-
tion of his fleet in the harbor, on the plea that the
vessels were unseaworthy, this band of invaders,
scarcely more than five hundred strong, marched
into the interior, bent on conquest and gain. They
were given for the most part kindly receptions by
the simple tribes along the coast, their superior
powers easily inspiring awe and commanding re-
specft. If, on the other hand, they were met with
the courage of opposition this was soon subdued by
the terrifying effe(5ts of their fire-arms, and by the
novel appearance of the cavalr}'', horse-and-man
seeming to the affrighted savages, who had never
before seen a horse, like some terrible monster,
half man and half beast. By crafty promises, and
by presents of beads and glass trinkets many dis-
MEXICAN HISTORY. 1 97
affe(5led tribes were won over to the Spanish cause.
Cortes soon claimed their allegiance in the name of
Castile and the Cross, overthrew their idols, set up
in their stead the image of Jesus and of Mary, and
converted whole villages in a day.
Every-where, however, the Spaniards heard tales
of a rich and powerful city and kingdom farther in
the interior. Reports of the strangers had reached
the ears of the Emperor Montezuma, too, whose
superstitious fears were greatly aroused by the
gloomy predi6lions of the oracle foretelling their
coming. Heralds with inquiries as to their inten-
tions, and bringing presents and propitiatory mes-
sages, came to meet the invaders. Cortes returned
courtly replies, gifts and compliments, with a re-
quest that he might visit, with his followers, the
court of Montezuma, as embassadors of His Majes-
ty, the King of Spain, who desired to offer his com-
pliments and congratulations to his brother, the
King of the Aztecs. The answer to these mes-
sages, carried by swift runners and porters who
took the place of b'easts of burden in Mexico, re-
turned in about ten days, with richer gifts of fine
feather-work, ornaments in silver and gold, aston-
ishing as well for their wonderful workmanship
and beauty as for their value. The Emperor Mon-
tezuma extended his courtesies to the Spaniards
and to the King of Spain, for whom he professed
due respedl; but he politely refused to allow them
to visit his city, oflfering as a reason the distance
198 THK LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
to tlie capital and the dangers that beset the way,
expressing at the same time his desire that the
chief Cortes return immediately to his sovereign
with these proofs of his friendship and good-will.
Much disappointed by this prohibition, Cortes,
nevertheless, dismissed the embassadors with fur-
ther professions of respedl, although coldly express-
ing his regrets upon the determination of their
royal master.
As a result of these interviews the natives
withdrew their kindly aid, and the army experi-
enced many hardships and suffered much from
the effe(5ls of the malarious regions about them.
Their spirits flagged, and discontent and rebellion
spread among the troops. The enterprise was
fraught with danger, toil and suffering greater
than even their courageous natures could endure,
and they demanded its abandonment. But to the
unflinching will of Cortes, dangers, trials and ob-
stacles only served to fire him to greater exertion,
and to more determined resolves. By a bold stroke
of policy, while seeming to yield to the opinions
oY his followers, he inspired them with greater
zeal, awakened to fuller force their cupidity, re-
newed their failing courage and bound them anew
to the arduous undertaking. By unusual powers
of diplomacy he succeeded in assuring his men
that his plans would certainly lead to honor, fame,
and to incalculable wealth, and that even then
they were on the very threshold of success. So,
MEXICAN HISTORY. 1 99
indeed, it seemed, for at this time a most gra-
cious message came to the Spaniards from the
chief city of the Toltonacs, a powerful tribe, which
but a short time before had been conquered by
the Mexicans, and whose oppressions they were
bitterly resenting.
The news and fame of the wonderful strangers
had reached the ears of the Toltonacs a^nd they sent
an invitation to the Spaniards to visit their city,
at the same time offering to join them in an ex-
pedition against the powerful and dreaded Aztecs.
This invitation was eagerly welcomed by Cortes,
and after learning all possible of the country and
of the condition of the empire of the Montezu-
mas, he dismissed the couriers with presents for
their lord, and a promise soon to visit his hospita-
ble city. This in time he accomplished, leading
his army under guide of the Indians sent to dire6l
them. Crossing first a dreary plain they entered
upon a beautiful country, rich in verdure and em-
bowered with tropical foliage and fruit. When at
length the Toltonac city was reached, Cortes with
his army entered its narrow streets, as much aston-
ished at the evidences of advancement and semi-
civilization as were the natives with the wonderful
horsemen, glittering helmets and armor and su-
perior abilities of the new-comers. The cagique
received them with marked respedl, and a long
conference was held between Cortes and himself,
through the medium of interpreters.
200 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
The interior dissensions of the country were
learned with joy by the Spanish General, who now
for the first time conceived the projedl of subduing
the great Aztec empire by dividing it against itself,
and by using one half to destroy the other, thus
bringing the whole under his subjecSlion. In the
interest of this design he kept himself secretly
on good terms with the Aztec nobles, whom he
encountered in their rounds of tribute-gathering;
and at the same time he stirred up their enemies
to fresh rebellion.
After a considerable stay among the Toltonacs,
Cortes again resumed his march, his army being
strengthened by thirteen hundred Indian warriors
and a thousand porters, the latter greatly facilitat-
ing the travel of the leagues before them by re-
lieving the troops of the wearisome transportation
of the baggage and camp equipments. So accus-
tomed were these porters to this work that they
easily carried on their backs fifty or sixty pounds
from fifteen to twenty miles a day. Several slaves
also fell into the hands of the Spaniards, and
among them an Indian girl of rank. She became
the slave of Cortes, with whom she shared the fa-
tigues of camp-life throughout the campaign. She
accepted the Christian religion and was baptized
Marina; she readily acquired the Spanish lan-
guage, and was a true friend and a valuable aid
to the Spanish cause.
The Spaniards now proceeded without hin-
MEXICAN HISTORY. 20I
drance from the natives, who either met them fa-
vorably or deserted their cities and fled. Nature,
however, seemed to enter her protest against the
invasion. The way became more and more diffi-
cult as it left the coast and began to lead up the
mountain-sides that guard the great central plateau
of Mexico. Moreover, the rainy season having
opened, the country was deluged with daily show-
ers, thus rendering travel for man or beast almost
impossible. Cortes, nevertheless, constantly en-
couraged his troops, and kept before their eyes
the bright promises of success, and with unfailing
perseverance, in spite of fatigues and hardships,
and the increasing inclemency of the weather,
they held bravely on their way.
When at length they had surmounted the pla-
teau they came upon a considerable city, a strong-
hold of a powerful ally and vassal of Montezuma.
Here they received but cold welcome, and were
refused the assistance they greatly needed after
their arduous march. They were allowed, how-
ever, to pursue their way unmolested, and they
even received further presents from the Aztec
Emperor, whose vacillating policy, arising from
his superstitions and fears of an army that had
seemed to come under the direcftion and continued
protection of the gods, refused friendship, yet con-
ciliated peace. He showed on the one hand his
wealth of treasure, and on the other his fear of
strength to guard it.
202 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Another powerful nation, the Tlascalans, now
oflfered a barrier to their passage through their
country. This plucky little republic was the bit-
ter, undying enemy of the Aztecs. By their almost
inaccessible position among the mountains, and by
their military prowess, courage, and love of free-
dom to be preserved at any cost, they had retained
their independence, although they had been for
years sorely pressed and almost continuously be-
sieged. Cortes was desirous of working this en-
mity to his advantage, and he sent proffers of
friendship to Tlascala, with the request that he be
allowed to pass through their country; but this
stubborn people had no welcome for the intruders.
They detained the envoys of Cortes, met his troops
with fierce opposition, and marshaling their forces,
gave battle after battle with a ferocity and deter-
mination that threatened to annihilate the advent-
urous band of Spaniards and their Toltonac allies.
But the superior ta(ftics of the Spaniards, together
with the crushing effedl of their fire-arms, were
weight against tremendous odds ; and by desperate
struggles they were successively vidlorious. Again
offering their friendship and declaring their inten-
tions against the central power, they were at last
cordially received and invited to Tlascala. The
bold mountaineers now became as warm friends
in peace as they had been hot foes in the field,
and their faithful, unflinching allies through all
the desperate struggles that followed.
MEXICAN HISTORY. 203
The news of tlie vi6lory of the Spaniards over
this hardy nation was a dread surprise to Monte-
zuma, who had learned with joy of their contests,
hoping that the old enemy and the new would an-
nihilate each other. Induced by his fears he now
sent warm expressions of amity and rich presents
of gold and silver, and even an offering of a yearly
tribute to the great King across the waters, whom
the Spaniards represented, but still urging excuses
against allowing them to enter his capital. In
this, however, Cortes was determined, stating as
his reason the desire to meet the great Montezuma
face to face, to impart to him in person the will of
his royal sovereign. While they lingered with
their new friends in Tlascala, other messages ar-
rived with the coveted invitation to the capital,
urging them not to make any alliance w^th the
treacherous Tlascalans, but to hasten on to the
friendly city of Cholula, where a cordial reception
should await them. This sudden change of heart
created suspicion rather than trust, and the more
so from the reputed wily character of the Cholu-
lans, against whom the Tlascalans soon warned
the Spaniards, entreating them not to trust them-
selves in that perfidious city, and urging them to
follow another route to the capital. It was the
policy of Cortes, however, to present a bold front
to both friend and foe, and to seem rather to court
danger than to avoid it. He therefore pushed his
course to Cholula with a largely increased force,
204 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
six thousand of the Tlascalans having united their
fortunes with his, and to his cause they clung
henceforth to the last.
The beautiful city was a revelation to the Span-
iards, who looked down upon it in wonder from the
surrounding hills. It was then second only in size
and in power to the City of Mexico itself, and was
the great centre of their barbarous worship, the
holy city of the Aztecs, as Mecca is of the Moham-
medans, Jerusalem of the Jews, and Rome of the
Catholics. Its numerous towers rose from out the
flat roofs of the houses, each a token of reverence
to some one of their great gods; while over all
was the great teocalli^ or temple to the God of Air,
where, it is said, ten thousand human sacrifices
were annually made.
The principal cagiques met the Spaniards as
they approached the city to condu6l them thither.
They protested, however, against allowing the Tlas-
calans to enter its sacred streets, offering in excuse
their pretended fear that the long-existing enmity
between them would break out in deadly revolt.
In consequence the Tlascalans were left encamped
without the city, while the Spaniards entered alone,
conscious of the dangers that beset them on every
hand. Their reception and entertainment were
royal, and the friendly mien of the chiefs and
priests reassuring; but Cortes never lessened his
vigilance, either in camp or on the march. His
soldiers, too, were ever on the alert for treachery by
MEXICAN HISTORY. 20$
day and by night. Their wariness had served them
well many times, and their constant watchfulness
of all the movements of their present hosts began
to dete6l signs of danger.
A plot was soon discovered to entangle the
Spanish troops in the streets upon their departure,
and, when thus separated and encompassed, to ut-
terly destroy them. This was startling news to
the daring adventurers, who were thus desperately
entrapped where it seemed absolutely impossible
for them to escape. A large Aztec force that had
gathered in the town pointed unmistakably to Mon-
tezuma as the originator of the plot. A bold stroke
was necessary, and Cortes laid his plans accord-
ingly. He advised the Cholulans of his intentions
to leave early on the following morning, only ask-
ing of them safe condu6t, and a few hundred porters
to aid in the transportation of their baggage. To
this request the Cholulans readily assented, the
better to further their treacherous designs. Before
the dawn Cortes massed his choice troops in the
court-yard of his headquarters, strongly defended
the entrances, and placed his cannon in such posi-
tion as to command the adjacent streets. He pre-
pared to meet treachery with treachery with a
result that was horrifying, but which, while we
condemn in its cruelty, we may not judge of it ex-
cept in the light of the age in which it occurred
and its terrible necessity.
When the army of porters, much larger than
2o6 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
had been requested, and who were also armed, had
come into the enclosure, ostensibly for the baggage,
the Spaniards opened a tremendous fire upon them,
taking them utterly by surprise. The din of the
confli(5l reaching the ears of the Cholulan forces
drawn up in ambuscade, they made a rush to rescue
their companions; but a raking fire greeted them,
and at this moment the Tlascalans, who had been
advised by a concerted signal, marched upon the
rear and a scene of terrible carnage followed. Hun-
dreds upon hundreds were killed with shot and
sword; houses and temples were plundered and
burned, and murder and horror stalked abroad un-
til mercy was pleaded for by the chiefs and Aztec .
nobles, and Cortes with difficulty finally succeeded
in drawing off his troops and in quieting the fe-
rocity of his almost uncontrollable Indian aids.
The city was now thoroughly subdued, and the
towns about hastened to offer their allegiance to
the successful General, whose wrath they dreaded
even more than that of the great Montezuma him-
self, who had hitherto lorded it over the whole coun-
try. This mighty monarch trembled on his throne
as he now saw the last barrier removed between
his city and the unconquerable band of intruders,
whose apparently charmed lives seemed proof
against both force and stealth. He sent messages
of sorrow at the ill-treatment of the Spaniards, and
protested his entire innocence of the conspiracy,
Cortes accepting it in apparent good faith. Taking
MEXICAN HISTORY. ^0^
counsel with his nobles, Montezuma resolved to
receive these embassadors, and to pay homage to
the King of Spain, of whose existence he was
learning to his terrible sorrow. He no longer
dared to refuse a welcome to the mighty Cortes.
That this one indomitable spirit, leading a
handful of men, could thus enter a vast, unknown
country, subdue villages and towns, attradl to his
cause every disaffe(5led partisan, quiet discontent
under the most trying circumstances among his
army of adventurers, overcome every obstacle in
his path, conquer enemies and convert them into
friends, and disseminate over all the country a co-
vert dread of his power, and even cause the lofty
lord and prince of the land, Montezuma the Great,
to shrink alike from embracing him as friend or
grappling with him as foe, impresses one more
like a fairy tale than veritable history. The secret
lies first in the religious fear arising from the an-
cient legend of Quetzalcoatl. Bearing in mind
the prophecy of the coming of white strangers,
who one day would prove conquerors in the land,
this legend gave to the Spaniards a miraculous
charadler in the eyes of the natives. They lost
their pristine courage when arrayed against a host
of apparent demi-gods, who seemed able to com-
mand the thunders and lightnings of heaven in
their deeds of destruction; while the horses, new
to the Mexicans, appeared to sweep down upon
them like demons possessed of invincible power,
208 THE IvAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
and with more than human intelligence. It was
civilized art against barbarous strength, diplomacy
against force, science against numbers, fire-arms
against arrows, mind against matter.
The dissensions and distradlions in the empire
were wielded as powerful weapons against itself.
Every means that a master-mind could create or
command was directed by a determination that
would not yield ; by a determination that converted
every barrier into added strength; by a determina-
tion that climbed by the very steps that obstru<5led
the way, and forged the mighty lever by which the
supreme throne of the Montezumas, slumbering
for centuries upon a rock, was made to topple and
fall forever.
MEXICAN HISTORY. 209
CHAPTER XVIII.
MEXICAN HISTORY.
LEAVING Cliolula the Spaniards and their alHes
'' finally were fairly on their way to the Aztec
capital. The road climbs rapidly up the cordillera
that fringes the plateau and leads between the great
Twin Mountains, stirring with intense delight the
fiery hearts of the Spanish invaders.
Prescott gives a wondrous story of the ascent
of Popocatapetl by Captain Ordaz, who, with a little
company of Spaniards, made the arduous journey
up its rugged sides to the then steaming and smok-
ing crater, where at frightful hazards he obtained
quantities of sulphur to renew the stock of powder
necessary for the army. The stupendous feat of
surmounting this ice- and snow-encompassed peak
has been accomplished by several adventurous trav-
elers in later days, but only with great toil and
danger is the trip made. A glorious description
of the ascent of this mighty mountain is given in
Grant's Memoirs, wherein he graphically pidlures
his trip, taken with his fellows, to the very summit,
during the time of the Mexican war.
Passing through this great gate-way Cortes led
210 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
his anny along the main highway to the City
of Mexico, marching with a vigilant eye ever
ready for attack. None came, and they traveled
on through a country that amazed them with its
signs of populous life, its cultivated fields of maize
and aloe, and its evidences of a higher civilization
than any they had yet seen in the New World.
Coming at length to the outer rim, overlooking the
fair vale of Anahuac, their amazement was lost in
delight. Verdant meadows and spreading forests
are interlaced with the shining waters of the lakes.
Tiny threads of silver mark the ways of streams
and canals, bordered by the brown huts of thriving
villages, and in the centre, like a beautiful gem
deep sunk in its green setting, lies the renowned
city of the Montezumas — Tenochtitlan, the Stone-
cadlus Place, the beautiful Aztec Venice.
As the Spanish conqueror stood at the head of
his little army, gazing upon this scene of enchant-
ment, what feelings of mingled triumph and dis-
trust must have crowded upon his mind:
" There Aztlan stood upon the farther shore,
Amid the shade of trees its dwellings rose,
Their level roofs with turrets set around,
And battlements all burnished white, which shone
Like silver in the sunshine. I beheld
The imperial city, her far-circling walls,
Her garden groves and stately palaces.
Her temples mountain-size, her thousand roofs;
And when I saw her might and majesty
My mind misgave me then."
^
MEXICAN HISTORY. 211
Crossing the valley the Spaniards were met by
the great Emperor himself, escorted by an armed
force, with a gorgeous retinue of nobles and princes.
He greeted Cortes with kingly dignity, and. form-
ally welcomed him to his capital, which they were
now entering by one of the great causeways lead-
ing thereto, and from that moment the empire of
the Montezumas was doomed. The amazement and
admiration of the Spaniards increased with every
step as they noted the extensive dikes controlling
the waters of the lake, the massive bridges span-
ning every opening, the well-arranged streets, the
grandeur of the city, and, above all, its teeming
population and signs of rich, flourishing life. They
were conducfled to a spacious palace built during
the reign of Montezuma's father. So many were
its apartments and so vast the court-yards and
out-buildings that the entire army, with their
numerous Indian allies, found ample shelter there-
in, and they were abundantly entertained by their
Royal Host who, immediately after their arrival,
paid Cortes a courtly visit.
The first care of the circumspedl Spanish com-
mander was to arrange his camp defenses, and to
establish as stridl a discipline as though his army
were under siege. This accomplished, he proceed-
ed with his officers to present himself at the im-
perial palace, where Montezuma was living in
barbaric splendor, surrounded by voluptuous ap-
pointments and regal etiquette truly oriental. His
212 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
harem contained as many dusky, dark-eyed beau-
ties as that of any prince of the East, and none
ever commanded more abje(5l worship from his
subjects. The dissensions and rebellions, that had
been to the aid of the Spaniards in the distant
portions of the empire, here availed them nothing,
for the Emperor's will was law. At a single nod
from him the whole city would have arisen as one
man. But he had welcomed the strangers into his
city as subjects of a royal sovereign who, they led
him to believe, was the great Being that had once
reigned over their land, now sent to reclaim their
vassalage; therefore he treated them with royal
munificence.
During the first few weeks of his stay here
Cortes studied carefully the city and its environ-
ments. He bent every faculty toward ingratiating
himself into the good-will of all in power, in frudli-
fying the belief in the divine emanation of the
Spaniards as Children of the Sun, in establishing
an ascendency over the mind and chara6ler of
Montezuma, and in eating into the vital strength
of the empire as rust eats into iron. He began
early to preach the Christian religion, and to try to
turn the people from their pagan beliefs and abom-
inable sacrifices; but in this he was in no way
successful, although he obtained permission to
implant the cross in the Spanish quarters, and to
ere(5l an altar, where Mass was daily solemnized.
Weeks passed, and inadlion began to spread
MEXICAN HISTORY. 213
discontent among his troops, warning Cortes that
an aggressive movement was necessary, or he must
abandon his dream of conquering the empire. By
his suave diplomacy and boldness, unparalleled in
the annals of history, he succeeded in securing the
person of Montezuma and in constraining him to
place himself in the hands of the Spaniards, and
to change his residence to their own quarters, as
a pledge of his good-will. So artfully was this
feat accomplished that it appeared to the natives,
and almost to the Emperor himself, to be of his
own free will, yet, in fa6l, he had become the pris-
oner of this little band of foreign troops, and in
the very heart of his own city.
Cortes was solicitous to surround Montezuma
with the same regal splendor and ceremony as
ever, but only the shadow of royalty was left to
him. The ground was slowly but surely slipping
beneath hi' feet. Under pressure he formally de-
clared himself a vassal of Spain, and swore allegi-
ance to that power. Later he required from every
prince of his kingdom a tribute which, with a lib-
eral addition from the royal treasury — a sum in all
sufficient to enrich an empire — he presented to the
Spaniards. The next step of Cortes was to obtain,
by command of Montezuma, a chamber in the
great teocal/i\ or temple, which the invaders con-
verted into a chapel; and side by side with the
bloody rites of the Aztecs the Spaniards celebrated
the ceremonies of Catholicism.
214 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
At this crisis of aflfairs news came to Cortes of
the arrival, off coast, of a Spanish fleet. This
greatly alarmed him, as he feared that his jealous,
bitter foe, the Governor of Cuba, had sent a force
to recall him, and thus rob him of the fruits of all
his labors. His suspicions proved to be correal,
for no sooner had Narvaez, the commander of the
fleet, landed his forces than he declared his inten-
tions to march against Cortes and convey him to
Cuba for trial for overreaching his authority. Cor-
tes strove to treat with him by negotiations, send-
ing these by trusty friends, who were instructed,
also, to win their way by judicious words and gifts
among the soldiers. In this they succeeded; but
Narvaez refused all proffers of settlement.
Cortes a(5led with his usual celerity, knowing
the danger of allowing this dissension to- weaken
his force in the empire. He placed one of his cap-
tains in command of the garrison, and taking a
portion of his troops he made a rapid, toilsome
march across the country. Before the enemy was
aware of his approach he had burst into their
camp, on a stormy night; and, aided by the sur-
prise, the darkness and the disaffeClion already en-
gendered by his generous gifts and promises to the
troops of Narvaez, he won an easy vi6lory. Plac-
ing Narvaez under close arrest, Cortes followed up
his success by winning the entire army to his own
cause, thus converting a hostile and armed force,
greater than his own, into powerful allies, leading
MEXICAN HISTORY. 2I5
them on by brilliant dreams of conquest and gold,
of which but few ever realized even the shadow.
They were first to enter upon dark days of sorrow
and suffering, and by far the larger number of
them ended their days untimely.
Reports of trouble in the city hastened the re-
turn of Cortes. There had been a bitter encounter
between the Spanish soldiers and the Aztec priests,
and the whole city was incensed and in arms.
Marching so rapidly that many of his troops fell
by the wayside, too worn and weary to travel far-
ther, Cortes reached at length his loyal friends at
Tlascala, where he obtained provisions and further
aid. Still more alarming messages came from the
garrison left in charge of Montezuma — messages
conveying the unwelcome news that the troops
were closely besieged, that the markets had been-
shut against theiji, and that the populace had set-
tled into a stubborn and determined unanimity to
resist the invaders.
Eagerly pressing for^vard, Cortes marched into
the city with an increased force of men. He hoped
by boldness and diplomacy and by the weight of
his presence soon to quell the disturbance; but he
had mistaken the temper of the Aztecs, who united
the luxuriousness and refinement of the Cholulans
with the courage and ferocity of the Tlascalans.
Outraged in their rights and insulted in their re-
ligion their slow-rising anger had swelled into a
tempestuous sea of resentment. Cortes forced his
2l6 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
royal prisoner to address his people and command
their submission; but his weakness had won their
contempt, and a few lawless marauders had the au-
dacity to answer him even with a shower of stones.
The Emperor of all the Aztecs was carried away
dishonored, wounded by one of his own people, who
a few months before had reverenced him as a god.
The insult rankled deeper than the wound. Mon-
tezuma felt himself despised of those by whom he
had been worshiped. The arrow of disgrace had
entered his soul and from its sting he never rallied.
Lingering only a few weeks, refusing to be com-
forted and spurning medical aid, he died broken-
hearted.
In the words of Prescott: "It is not easy to con-
template the fate of Monteztima without feelings
of the strongest compassion ; — to see him thus borne
along the tide of events beyond his power to avert
or control; to see him, like some stately tree, the
pride of his own Indian forests, towering aloft in
the pomp and majesty of its branches, by its very
eminence a mark for the thunderbolt, the first vic-
tim of the tempest which was to sweep over its
native hills."
The fury of the populace, no longer held in
check by the presence of the once-loved Montezuma
in the camp of the enemy, now burst in full force
upon the Spanish troops. On the death of Mon-
tezuma his brother, Cuitlahua, became Emperor of
Mexico, and he conducted the Aztec forces with a
MEXICAN HISTORY. 217
vigor inspired by his loyal patriotism and his bitter
detestation of the white man. The garrison was
kept under constant and furious assault through
his generalship. A galling fire of arrows and stones
was continuously showered upon them. Every sor-
tie of horse or volley of artillery was met with un-
flinching courage. Hordes of Indians, full of vim
and ripe for the conflidl, swarmed to the revenge
of their comrades, replaced the slain, closed the
broken ranks and savagely fought for their native
city, and for their cherished belief in the gods of
their ancestors. The streets bristled with warriors,
and every house was a fortress, every roof a place
of attack.
The Spaniards made a successful assault on
the temple and by almost superhuman efforts
gained possession of this important point, thus
enabling them to defend their quarters. But the
tide of opposition was set full against them, and
was no more to be stayed than the tides of the
ocean. They must evacuate the city or be over-
whelmed by the flood. But the great Island City
was like a vast moated castle, with ports-cuUis
down and draw-bridges in, and every avenue of
escape guarded.
Making the best distribution possible of his
army, Cortes attempted under cover of the dark-
ness to make good his retreat. It was a perilous,
desperate undertaking, but to remain longer would
result in utter annihilation. Silently his men filed
2l8 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
through the streets, vainly hoping that a people
unused to night attacks would not discover their
attempt at flight until they had escaped from the
jaws of death open to devour them. But the Az-
tecs had learned sufficient of European warfare to
be on their guard both night and day. Their sen-
tinels sounded the alarm, and before the van-guard
had reached the temporary bridge thrown across
the dike an armed force was upon them. Crowded
as they were on the long, narrow causeway, their
lines offered direful targets for the arrows and
stones of the enemy. By thousands the Aztecs
came upon them with the fury of wild beasts,
firing in showers their death-dealing missiles, grap-
pling with them from. swarms of canoes and drag-
ging them into the lake, where they were drowned,
borne down by countless enemies or by the weight
of their gold and their weapons, or were permit-
ted to live only for the more horrible death by
sacrifice.
Bravel}', too, the Spaniards fought for their
lives, making what advance they could by stagger-
ing over their fallen comrades with the struggling
strength of desperation. Reaching at length solid
ground, where fortunately the enemy did not fol-
low, Cortes attempted to bring his remaining
troops into something like martial order. More
than two-thirds of the l)rilliant army, with which
but a few months before he had entered the city,
had been swept away. Many of this sad remnant
MEXICAN HISTORY, 219
were hurt to the death, their tattered and blood-
stained garments showing gaping flesh-wounds;
and all were, without exception, crushed and
bruised, dismantled and dripping with the bloody-
waters of the lake. Their pitiable plight wrung
their leader's heart with anguish, and sitting un-
der the gnarled cypress, which still marks the
memorable spot, he wept in bitter tears for the
fearful disaster that had befallen them. This spot
is to this day commemorated as the Jioclic tvisic^ or
night of sorrow. But desperate as was their con-
dition they must press on toward Tlascala, their
only hope of safety. The soul of the great Gen-
eral rose to meet even this terrible crisis, and from
the jaws of defeat he still hoped to snatch the
crown of vi(?i;ory. It was now the time to acfl,
and not to mourn.
News of his disaster had spread over the whole
country. Defeat had robbed the Spaniards of their
superhuman chara6ler, and they no longer struck
awe into the hearts of the natives now harrassins:
them on every hand. Gaining possession of a
temple but poorly defended, they halted for the
recuperation they sorely needed; but they dared
not linger long, and on the second day they again
resumed their weary way. After a week of slow,
difficult progress their spirits began to revive, even
in spite of their jaded limbs, in the hope that they
would soon be in the country of their friends, with
no further fear of collision with their desperate foe.
220 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Almost joyfully they toiled up the steep hill-
sides that guard the verdant valley of Otuniba,
when suddenly there came from their out-guards
the chilling report that a great army of their en-
emy was awaiting them over the ridge. This dire-
ful information was soon verified, for, marching a
little higher, there burst upon their astonished
gaze a savage host that filled the entire valley like
one tumultuous sea. A moment of dread and aw-
ful suspense filled every heart, and then their brave
leader's voice rang out with words of cheer, as
never before, reminding his men of their many
vi6lories in times past, demonstrating to them the
vast superiority of science over numbers, urging
them to remember that the strength of heaven
was on their side to bless and to aid, convincing
them that retreat was impossible, showing them
that Mexico and destruction lay in their rear, and
rallying them into the belief that the only possible
way of escape led forward, and over the bodies of
the opposing foe. So, with the fury that is born
of despair, they prepared to cut their course
through the savage throng, firmly resolved to win,
or, if must be, bravely to fall.
" Desperate the die— such as they only cast
Who venture for a world, and stake their last."
Forming in battle array they descend into the
valley, sounding the vSpanish war-cry signifying:
"Santiago, and at them!" They are answered by
MEXICAN HISTORY. 221
the fierce and almost fiendish shrieks of the Aztec
horde thirsting for the hot blood of the Spaniards.
With a terrific charge the little Castilian band
breaks throngh the front ranks of the enemy, tram-
pling them down with their war-steeds and pierc-
ing them through with sword and spear. Then the
vast multitude of warriors surges back, fiercely
closing with them on every side, and the conflidl
rages hard and long. Boldly the intrepid Spaniards
hold their own, and more, fighting furiously and
dealing death at every blow, but the tremendous
odds begin to tell against them. Total annihilation
presses close upon the heels of the meagre company,
when the eagle-eye of Cortes, glancing anxiously
over the field for some vantage-ground, sees at no
great distance the chief of the horde, readily distin-
guished by his gorgeous attire and stately retinue.
Calling about him a few of his brave cavaliers,
Cortes cuts precipitately into the ranks of his en-
emy, mowing down all before him. He darts like
a flash into the princely cortege^ overcomes the
great chief and strikes down many of his attend-
ants before the danger can be apprehended. The
great Aztec force is now terror-stricken and a
frightful panic ensues. They flee as before the
whirlwind, trampling over one another and often
cutting down their friends in their blind fear of
the foe, by whom they are hotly pursued and with
frightful slaughter. The Spanish troops strike for
booty, while the Tlascalans sate their souls in
222 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
carnage with the fury of long-rankling revenge.
The vi(5lory was brilliant and decisive, and con-
sidering the disparity of numbers and the enfeebled
condition of his army perhaps it was the most
wonderful of all Cortes' achievements in the land.
The Aztecs made no attempt to rally, and the
march continued without further dispute, and in a
few days the borders of the Tlascalan republic were
reached. The Indians welcomed the sight of their
native land with transports of joy; while the Span-
iards, on the contrary, appreciating the weakness
of their position, dreaded as much as they longed
to reach the end of their journey. Even the val-
iant Cortes was gloomy with apprehensions, al-
though he tried to uphold the courage of his men
with hopeful assurances. The Tlascalans had been
their true and intrepid friends through all. Not
the slightest sign of defedlion had been manifest
among them, now returning a broken band — a
mere handful of the brilliant company that had
marched forth from their mountain home, all-con-
fident in their lordly leaders.
The uncertainty of the welcome the Spaniards
might find awaiting them, now shorn of their glory
and strength, and bringing only sorrow and defeat,
was a source of deepest anxiety to all. Well they
knew that if this last refuge were denied them,
utter annihilation would be their fate; while with
this tribe as a rallying centre the ambitious Cortes
could still hope to effe(5l his schemes of conquest.
MEXICAN HISTORY. 223
Therefore they lingered upon the frontier until
news of their return had reached the .Tlascalan
capital; when to their unutterable joy came mes-
sages of sympathy, together with a cordial invita-
tion to the city, assuring them of whatever aid
and comfort its crude conveniences could afford.
Cortes lost no time in accepting this welcome prof-
fer and soon his army was established again in
friendly quarters.
The Council Chamber had not been without
advice against this amicable reception, for the
young chief, who had bitterly opposed the Span-
iards on their first appearance, desired to meet
them again in the field and measure his prowess
with theirs. Such powerful friends, he argued,
would soon prove more dangerous to freedom than
their most powerful foes. This, indeed, proved
to be the word of prophecy; but he was alone in
his far-sighted fears, and other counsel prevailed.
An embassy from the Aztecs came in vain to the
Tlascalans to tempt theiji from their alliance, offer-
ing to forget their long-existing feuds and urging
them to join in a mutual resistance of their com-
mon enemy. These overtures, showing the weak-
ness of their once proud foe, served rather to
strengthen their union with the Spaniards, who
even in defeat had thus inspired the mighty Aztecs
to sue for aid.
224 THE IvAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
CHAPTER XIX.
MEXICAN HISTORY.
T3 ECOVERING from a severe illness, conse-
-■^^ quent upon tlie terrible trials and disasters he
had undergone, Cortes again began to lay his plans
for conquering the empire. Discouragement, how-
ever, had spread among his troops, and they re-
quested, in a formal petition, the abandonment of
the enterprise that had already nearly brought
them to destru6lion, and had left them utterly
unable to cope with the myriads arrayed against
them. Cortes, nevertheless, took a resolute stand,
and demanded to know if, indeed, the brave sol-
diers whom he had led to vi6lory, times without
number, fighting for Castile and the Cross, now
really desired to desert their leader and their
sacred trust — now, after having learned of the
treasures and glory awaiting them at the Aztec
capital. His words were successful in reviving
the enthusiasm of his men, and in smothering the
rising rebellion.
Adlive operations were soon begun against the
surrounding tribes that had turned with the tide to
their old allegiance, and had sought to prove their
MEXICAN HISTORY. 225
zeal by destroying every Spaniard that came within
their reach. Cortes punished them without mercy
in order to re-inspire in the land a dread of his
power. As an example to other hostile tribes the
village of the Tepeanacs, where a small body of
Spaniards, on their way to the important colony
of Villa Rica on the coast, had been seized and
sacrificed, was razed to the ground and the inhab-
itants branded and given into slavery.
At this jundlure the Spanish troops received
able reinforcements from a fleet sent over by the
Governor of Cuba to the aid of Narv^aez, whom he
supposed to be in command of the country. Un-
der this supposition the Cubans were allowed to
land, according to the instru(5lions of Cortes, and
by brilliant accounts of the country and displays
of the coveted gold, they were induced to enter
the ser\ace of the very man they had been sent to
humble. Other vessels of explorers yielded their
quota of men to the expedition, and hardy advent-
urers, here and there, seeking spoil under what-
ever banner, added their strength to the enterprise
and supplied the dismantled army with fire-arms
greatly needed to take the place of those lost in
the disastrous flight from the Aztec capital. Thus,
by well-diredled coercion and masterly strateg}'^,
Cortes succeeded in reinforcing his army, for his
great name proved to be a mighty magnet that
drew to his cause all who came within the magic
circle of its power.
226 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
With an army now strengthened to ahnost a
thousand men, supplied with a few heavy guns and
small pieces of artillery, and with a noble contin-
gent of allies, some fifty thousand strong, Cortes,
early in 1521, less than a year after his desperate
retreat, again marched into the valley of Mexico.
With arms and armors burnished, with banners
waving and cross uplifted in the ranks of the
Christians, and with savage warriors decorated
with bright plumes and flying the gaudy append-
ages in equal triumph, they pressed onward for
vi6tory, making a display as brilliant as it was
imposing. Every province and town through
which Cortes passed, that refused a ready sub-
mission, was forthwith reduced by force of arms.
His plan of operations required a clear sphere of
adlion and a friendly or subdued country in his
rear from which to draw the supplies for his great
army. This task was almost inconceivable, the
greater as he neared the city, requiring constant
watchfulness and adlivity and frequent counter-
marches, for often a town, reduced to subjedlion
by the passing ami)-, would rise again and again
until utterly demolished. The terrible lesson of
the Night of Sorrow had warned him, too, against
trusting to the treacherous causeways for entrance
to the city. Under his instru(ftions a number of
brigantines had been built in sedlions and carried
on the backs of Indian porters, some twenty leagues
to the lake, with cordings, sails, and other para-
MEXICAN HISTORY. 22/
phernalia, ready for quick eredlion and service — a
feat fairly incredible and without parallel in history.
In May, 1521, the boats were launched amid
great rejoicings, and the same winds that filled
their sails wafted across the lake the triumphant
strains of their Te Dcum. The city was invested
on all sides, by land and water, and the siege was
begun. The land forces were in three divisions,
under command of Alvarado, Sandoval and Olid,
while Cortes himself took charge of the fleet.
The scourge of small-pox, introduced by the
coming of the white man, had swept over the
country, just previous to this period, sparing nei-
ther high nor low, depopulating whole towns,
and even visiting the imperial palace, striking
down the Emperor, Cuitlahua, after a reign of only
four months. Guatemozin, a nephew of Monte-
zuma, young, determined, and blazing with patri-
otic fire, had succeeded to the tottering throne, and
was exerting all his energies and all the force of the
empire to stay its fall. From the moment of his
accession he endeavored to unite his kingdom to
meet the gathering storm ; but while the near prov-
inces yielded their allegiance, many of the more
distant stood aloof, or took advantage of Jihe situa-
tion to throw off the heavy burdens under which
their backs had long been bended, little dreaming
that the iron yoke of the Spaniards, whom they
were thus aiding, would soon drag their necks to
the very ground.
228 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Ill June the bitter struggle of the Spaniards to
conquer Mexico began with a combined attack by
the three divisions in three dijEferent quarters of
the city, and was thenceforth fought to the death.
They penetrated some distance into the streets, fill-
ing with stones and rubbish the breaches in the
causeways from which the natives had torn the
bridges, ably defending these points by ramparts
thrown up on the inner shore. In destroying these
defenses the brigantines rendered essential service
by enfilading the ranks of the enemy and raking
them with scorching fire. In the shallower ca-
nals, however, the fleet could not go, and the savage
hordes took firmer stand. Darkening the air with
their arrowy sleet, and showering stones and burn-
ing brands from every roof, they compelled the as-
sailants, after a fierce conflict, to retire, but not un-
til a number of buildings had been burned. As a
consequence of this partial victory supplies and
reinforcements from surrounding tribes rolled into
the Spanish camps, swelling their allied forces to
nearly two Inmdred thousand men.
Without giving the Mexicans time, as they
supposed, to recover from the assault, the Span-
iards again marched against the city, when to their
dismay they found the passages cleared and the
defenses rebuilt, and all the labor of the last at-
tack ha4 to be re-wrought. The rage of the Aztecs
seemed only to have gained in intensity, and when
their enemies penetrated to the plaza they fought
MEXICAN HISTORY. 229
them back with the fury of wild beasts. From the
house-tops they hurled down their murderous mis-
siles with such force as to almost rout the invaders,
and Cortes found it necessary, in order to make
farther advance, to apply the torch to the magnifi-
cent palace that had sheltered his own army dur-
ing their former visit to the capital. Memories of
the desperate siege sustained here, and of its bitter
termination in the horrors of Noche Triste, gave
a furious zest to the firing of this magnificent
stru(5lure. Many other grand buildings also -were
burned, notably the House of Birds, a fanciful edi-
fice of great cost in which were confined all the
plumed varieties of the country. Night came, how-
ever, without any decisive result, and warned the
Spaniards to retreat. Struggle after struggle con-
tinued, each vidlory of to-day requiring to be won
again on the morrow. Day after day the Spaniards
made their terrible inroads into the capital to be
again and again driven back with a stubbornness
and desperate determination equalled only by the
heroes of Thermopylae.
Neither by day nor by night was there any rest
nor scarcely a cessation of hostilities, for the Aztecs,
contrary to their usual custom, made frequent at-
tacks under cover of the darkness, striving to find
the weary Spaniards off their guard. On water as
well as on land bloody battles raged in open con-
tests, while the wily stratagems, so common to sav-
agery, frequently made the water crimson with
230 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS
Spanish blood, in spite of their constant watchful-
ness. Pikes were driven beneath the waters of the
lake, by the natives, to capsize the boats; ambus-
cades were laid on land to ensnare the troops, and
false retreats were made to out-flank the enemy.
To the sufferings of the field, too, were added the
horrors of sacrifice, for every captive taken by the
Mexicans was offered to the gods in conciliation of
their favor, and then hurled from the steps of the
temple to be prepared and feasted upon by the
savage captors to satisfy their vicious appetites.
With every varying result the tides of tribal allegi-
ance ebbed and flowed, striving ever to be on the
winning side, flooding the ranks of the Spaniards
after every vidlory of theirs only to revolt with im-
precations and indignities after defeat. Thus for
many weary weeks the bloody siege continued,
seeming no nearer a close than at the first engage-
ment.
At every opportunity for communication Cortes
sent conciliatory messages to the Emperor, Gua-
temozin, offering honorable terms of capitulation,
promising to forget the past, promising to respe(5t
the liberties of his people and to confirm his au-
thority, if he would but receive him peacefully and
return to the allegiance that Montezuma had ac-
knowledged to the sovereign lord and emperor of
Spain. Such words availed nothing with Guate-
mozin, who recognized no authority higher than
his own, except that of the gods. He had no faith
MEXICAN HISTORY. 23!
in the promises of the men through whose treachery
the noble but weak Montezuma had fallen, and he
answered such messages only with a rout more
blood-thirsty than the last.
Portions of the city were frequently taken, and
at one time nearly three-fourths of it was reduced
and held by the Spanish arms, but only to lose
their advantage, for the intricacies of the narrow,
close-built streets and the intersedling canals gave
all the odds to the natives, and rendered almost
impossible the tadlics of European warfare. The
invading army became impatient from suffering
and delay, and Alderete, the royal treasurer, advised
a bold, concerted adlion by which the troops might
penetrate into the heart of the city and entrench
themselves in the great market-place, where far
more comfortable quarters could be arranged than
their present camp afforded. To this plan Cortes
finally assented, finding it to be the wish of the
Council, but he commanded exceeding caution in
filling every breach in the causeways as they ad-
vanced, and in preserving unbroken passage-ways
to the rear throughout the attack. In the enthusi-
asm of the sally these precautions were overlooked
in Alderete's division. This failure very nearly
brought destruction upon the whole army.
The Aztecs retreated before the invaders in ap-
parent confusion, thus drawing them into their very
midst, when suddenly they faced about, and their
pursuers found themselves surrounded on all sides
232 THE IvAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
by hordes of savage troops, and fierce the con-
fli6l was waged. The assailants were driven back in
wild disorder at length, and at the negledled chasm
none could escape except by swimming and clam-
bering up the opposite bank of the canal in the
very face of swarms of enemies who there cut
them down mercilessly, while others were speared
to the death from canoes, or dragged wounded into
them for the more terrible punishment of the fut-
ure. Those of the rear guards were more fortunate
in passing the breach, staggering and clambering
across the canal on the ghastly bridge formed by
the bodies of their fallen comrades. Cortes himself
was severely wounded, and escaped capture or death
only through the heroic exertions of his immediate
aids, one of whom was killed on the spot and an-
other taken alive to suffer the atrocious tortures of
sacrifice. Many other Spaniards and great numbers
of their allies met a similar fate, and the mortality,
especially among the latter, was frightful, while
comparatively few escaped unwounded.
Festivities in the Mexican city followed, and
so many were the vi(5lims offered to the gods that
the priests declared their divinities were at last ap-
peased, and they here made the fatal mistake of
promising that in eight days the city would be de-
livered from the hands of the enemy. Heads and
limbs of captured Spaniards were sent in numbers
to revolting tribes with the warning: "Thus it
shall be soon with all the enemies of Mexico!"
MEXICAN HISTORY. 233
Although these prophecies were scoffed at by
the Spaniards, their superstitious allies gave them
such credence that comi3any after company desert-
ed, leaving the representatives of Castile and the
Cross almost without native support. The eight
days passed, however, without any manifestation
from the gods, and mourning and distrust took
the place of joy and faith in the Aztec city, now
doomed to the darkness of despair. The deserting
tribes returned by thousands to Spanish allegiance,
burning to wreak their vengeance on the priests of
false promises, for their arrogant deception.
Cortes now began upon another plan of a6lion.
After making a last vain effort to induce the
staunch, young Emperor to peacefully become his
vassal, he determined upon demolishing every
building as he advanced, filling every channel to
the level, converting the water courses into dry
land, burning everything that would burn, tearing
down, stone by stone, everything that would not
burn, and taking no steps forward until he had
left utter desolation at his back. The great Gen-
eral undertook this plan of operations only as a
sorrowful necessity, and as a last resort, in the ac-
complishment of his objecT;, deeply regretting the
unfortunate destrudlion of this fair Queen of the
Valley, enthusiastically described in his dispatches
as "the most beautiful city of the world."
Desperate and persistent, the Aztecs fought
against the dire ruin of their beloved home, and
234 'T^E LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
against the overthrow of their empire; but each
day found them harder pressed and nearer the end
of their glory. Famine and disease, with all their
attendant evils, came to their midst, and against
which they were more powerless than against
their foes at the gates. The stores of provisions,
laid in for the siege, were exhausted. A handful
of grain brought its weight in gold, until there
was no more to be bought ; and there was scarcely
anything to drink except the brackish waters of
the lake. The wretched inhabitants sustained life
by chewing roots and barks of trees, by eating a
kind of scum scraped from the lake, by devouring
any vile reptile, and occasionally feasting upon the
bodies of their enemies. Still in this extremity
their spirits remained unbroken, and there was no
thought of yielding to the persistent enemy offer-
ing them peace only as the price of submission.
The horrors and sufferings of the closing days of
the siege beggar description. The starved and
emaciated Aztec warriors are slain by thousands,
and die unconquered. The days are filled with
carnage and destru6lion, and the nights are lurid
with devouring flames.
At length Alvarado's division sees before it the
long-coveted market-place, still stubbornly defend-
ed by the enemy. Anxious to be first to win this
important post he pushes on his men with such
vim and vigor that he drives everything before him
and heaps the ground with the wounded and the
MEXICAN HISTORY. 235
slain. The natives are overcome, and the square
is his, if he can but wrench from them the com-
manding towers of the temple. On rush his men
to this spot sacred to the Aztecs. Time after time
they essay to mount the steps, and are hurled back
with orreat loss. At last the summit is reached
and the Spaniards dash the base idols from their
bloody altars. This adl of sacrilege to the revered
gods of their forefathers so enrages the Aztecs that
their arms seem imbued with double energy and
power, and they rush again upon their assailants
with a fury that carries everything before it, and
compels a retreat into the outskirts of the city.
This vi(5lory shines as a last gleam of hope on this
wretched people. The priests commit a second
fatal mistake, by declaring that in three days their
gods will deliver the city from its ravishers and
bring destrudlion as a whirlwind upon them; and
once more the natives believe.
" O the lover may
Distrust that look that steals his soul away ;
The babe may cease to think that it can play
With heaven's rainbow; alchemists may doubt
The shining gold their crucibles give out ;
But Faith, fanatic Faith, once wedded fast
To some dear falsehood, hugs it to the last."
236 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
CHAPTER XX.
MEXICAN HISTORY.
^T^HE three days pass to find the despairing
-*- multitude, now penned up in the sad rem-
nant of their long-loved home, only more wretched
than before. After recuperation, Alvarado, nothing
daunted by his defeat, returns to renew the attack,
this time with success. Cortes with his division
arrives at the plaza from his side of the city simul-
taneously with Alvarado, and together they mount
the steps of the temple and view the sad scene of
ruin. Seven-eighths of the town is now subdued.
The streets reek with the blood of the slain, whose
bodies lie in such heaps that the air is stifling with
the noxious odors of putrefa(?tion. The natives
are dying, men, women and children, by hundreds,
of starvation and fell disease. Struck with horror
at the ghastly sight Cortes again sends to Guatemo-
zin asking him to surrender and save his people
from further suffering and woe; and this is the
Emperor's reply: "My people ele(5l to die; and
will trust themselves neither to the men who com-
mit, nor to the God who permits, such atrocities!"
To conquer the Aztecs was impossible except
MEXICAN HISTORY. 237
by grinding them to dust. Sending Alvarado to
one quarter, Cortes marches against another, and
the thundering cloud of war breaks in its final fury.
The wretched natives court rather than shun death
as a blessed deliverance from their sufferings, and
the battle rages until it becomes a massacre, for the
Indian allies show no mercy, and spare neither in-
nocence, infancy nor age. Thousands fall in such
masses as to form a barrier between the lines, and
still the natives will not yield. The houses are
pillaged and almost totally destroyed. "Such cru-
elty," says Cortes, throwing the blame on his In-
dian troops, "was never before witnessed."
A few days later the Emperor is captured while
trying to escape by boat from the city. When led
before his Spanish conqueror his graceful and dig-
nified bearing commands the respe6l due to fallen
majesty. He pleads that the slaughter of his people
be stopped and that they be allowed to escape into
the green fields surrounding their ruined city. For
himself he but asks for a speedy death through the
dagger hanging by the side of his vicSlor. Cortes,
however, re-assures him of his prote6lion and court-
esy, a promise treacherously forgotten in the near
future. With the capture of Guatemozin all resist-
ance ceases, and the empire of the Montezumas
has fallen.
Peace being declared, the stricken people are
allowed the boon asked for them by their deposed
ruler, and a wretched and sorrowful procession
238 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
streams slowly out from the plague-smitten city,
across the wasted causeways into the adjacent fields,
seeking for food where they had once commanded
slaves. For three months the siege has lasted,
'closing with vicSlory for the mighty Cortes on the
thirteenth of August, 1521. The loss among the
Spaniards has been inconsiderable, although thou-
sands of their allies have been slain. Of the Aztecs
at least one hundred thousand have fallen in battle,
besides the great numbers who have died from fam-
ine and disease.
When the city had been emptied of the remnant
of its inhabitants the Spaniards commenced its
purification by burying the decaying bodies, and
by building great fires along its ruined streets.
Among the troops the time was given up to feast-
ing and rejoicing. Having no farther need of the
faithful vassals who had aided the invader in his
work of spoliation Cortes now dismissed them to
their respe(5live countries with slight plunder, but
with magnificent promises of future glory. With
these fair visions and with the complete annihila-
tion of their ancient enemy they were content, little
suspedling that the visions were soon to fade into
nothingness, and their new friend become a task-
lUaster incomparably harder than the last.
The Spanish soldiers were not so easily satisfied.
Gold and silver was the reward they coveted, and
the treasure obtained was far less than had been
expedled. After setting aside the royal fifth to be
MEXICAN HISTORY. 239
sent to the Crown, and the fifth for the commander
as his assigned sum, besides the large divisions
allowed to the under officers and cavalrymen, the
share falling to the uncommissioned soldiers was
far inadequate to the value of their services through
their long and faithful campaign of toil and suffer-
ing. Some refused to receive so small a recom-
pense, and there was disappointment and rebellion
among them all. They declared that Guatemozin
had concealed the treasure and they clamored for
his delivery into their hands, that he might be tor-
tured into revealing its hiding-place. When Cortes
refused to comply with this awful request his sol-
diers insinuated distrust in his motives and implied
an intention on his part of gaining and appropriat-
ing the treasure to his own use. Stung by such
accusations Cortes weakly allowed Guatemozin to be
taken to the torture with some of his companions of
past power. Their feet, after being rubbed with oil
to prevent the too rapid charring of the flesh, were
roasted before a slow fire, causing such intense
agonies that one died from exhaustion. Although
Guatemozin confessed to having thrown some gold
in the lake, nothing of much value was found ex-
cept an image of the sun in solid gold, discovered
in a deep pond in the Emperor's garden.
With the fall of the empire and capital city of
the Aztecs fell also the entire Mexican nation.
Almost all of the tribes, except those in far-distant
provinces, sent in their ready allegiance, and the
240 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
few holding aloof were soon reduced to submission
by the Spanish arms. It soon became necessary
to establish a worthy centre to this great territory,
and Cortes determined to build a new city upon
the site of the old. Rapidly the work progressed
by the hands of the very people who had aided in
tearing it down, thus fulfilling the prophecy of the
Aztecs, who had taunted their Indian enemies with
this cry throughout the siege: "Yours will be the
labor of building up what you tear down, for if we
are vicftorious we will scourge you to this work;
and if the Spaniards are successful they will make
you their slaves."
The plan of the new city was much the same
as that of the old, with the Spanish mansions and
municipal buildings substantially erected of stone,
and occupying the same locations as those stately
palaces of the past I'egime^ now forever fallen.
The causeways were enlarged and extended, sev-
eral being added to the original number.
With his brilliant dreams of conquest fully
realized, Cortes fitted out his expedition to the
Spanish Emperor, sending, with the lengthy dis-
patches descriptive of every important step of the
enterprise, the great mass of treasure reserved as
a key to imperial favor. The greater part of this
prize was unfortunately captured off the coast of
France, and the great mass of gems and gold so
hard-wrested from the conquered Aztecs by Span-
ish warriors thus went to enrich the throne of a
MEXICAN HISTORY. 24 1
rival court. The dispatches, however, were saved
from the wreck, and the wonderful success of the
adventurous General found him favor in spite of
the machinations of his enemies; and in October,
1522, the Emperor signed the commission of Cor-
tes as Captain General and Chief Justice of New
Spain.
The first government was essentially military, ,
with .Cortes as chief executive. There was also
a Chamber of Deputies with powers judiciary, and
with authority over the distribution of land to the
colonists. By the iniquitous apportionment of a
certain number of the natives to ever}' acre of
land granted, the once free inhabitants were prac-
tically reduced to slavery, and compelled to in-
human toil in the mines and incessant labor in
the fields for the benefit of those whom they had
aided to vi(5lory.
In 1524, while engaged in an expedition against
the rebellious people of Honduras, Cortes commit-
ted the most atrocious a(fl of his whole life. He
had taken Guatemozin with him on the campaign
to prevent any uprising in favor of the dethroned
ruler. During their absence, and while the army
was suffering great fatigue in the wilderness, a
plot was discovered on the part of the natives to
surprise and kill Cortes and his guard. Although
Guatemozin professed entire innocence of this con-
spiracy, and although no evidence appeared against
him, Cortes commanded a hasty court-martial, and
242 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Guatemozin was sentenced to death. Thus, in
spite of the liberal promises of Cortes, the heir to
all the empire of the Montezumas ignominiously
perished — hung to one of the trees of his own
forests.
When Cortes returned to the capital he found
affairs therein in a state of anarchy, the officers in
power quarreling among themselves and maltreat-
ing the helpless natives. Officials were sent out
from Spain to enquire into the condition of the
country, and such accusations were made against
Cortes that he determined to go to the imperial
throne and there vindicate his tarnished chara(5ler
in person. He was received with great honor on
his arrival, and the power of his presence soon
cleared the suspicions against him. The great
service he had rendered the Castilian empire was
sufficient to command the grateful respedl of his
sovereign, and he was created Marquis of the Val-
ley of Oaxaca, where large grants of land were as-
signed to him and his heirs. King Charles, how-
ever, refused to return him as Governor of New
Spain, fearing his influence over a people so re-
mote.
With the young wife Cortes had wxdded he
returned to his estates in Mexico, and attempted
farther expeditions of discovery and colonization,
but the fates seemed now to have declared against
him. His star of fortune had risen to its zenith,
and was now fast sinking to the horizon. Again he
MEXICAN HISTORY. 243
was accused of over-ambition, and in order to main-
tain his name, and to obtain redress for the losses
of his expeditions, he once more set sail for Spain.
The day of his glory had, however, darkened, and
after years of discouragement and failure, he died,
in 1547, a disappointed man.
Of the chara6ler of Cortes we, in this day, are
hardly capable of judging. In the facl that he
was possessed of an ambition that surmounted, by
whatever means, every obstacle in his path, lay the
very secret of his power. Cruel and unscrupulous
he was in carrying out the projects of his career,
yet brave and generous during the hardships of his
campaigns. His faults were the faults of his age,
when might made right, and the power of the
sword decided the title to conquest. The fanati-
cism of his religion, then the ruling spirit of his
land, gave to the very atrocities of his invasion a
similitude of holiness, and, as in the Crusades, sur-
rounded his deeds with the halo of sandlity, while
the heroes who fell under his banner received the
crowns of martyrdom. To the religion that justi-
fied for its own gain such cruelties, and even set
upon them its blessing, rather than to the charac-
ter of the man who successfully led this gigantic
enterprise, should be laid the sin of its injustice
and cruelty.
The vice-regal period in New Spain which fol-
lowed the governorship of the Conqueror was one
of uninteresting succession of rulers, entirely de-
244 ''^^^^ LAND OF THK MONTEZUMAS.
pendent upon the home-government for their ap-
pointment and continuance. The regents were
wholly unable, even when anxious for the good of
the oppressed people of their adoption, to adl with
independent judgment, or to conduct affairs other-
wise than for the aggrandizement of his imperial
majesty, the Emperor of Spain, and his favorites.
The vast mines of Mexico were extensively
worked. Cities sprang up here and there, and
fine cathedrals were built, but all the money that
escaped the imperial treasury remained in the
Church or in the hands of the Spanish nobles,
now lords of the country; and the people suffered
the extremities of poverty and oppression. For
almost three centuries they submitted to the un-
disputed sway of foreign rule, until in 1810 a first
decisive blow for liberty was struck in Mexico.
Hidalgo was the leader of this insurre(5lion, and
under his banner, unfurled for independence, thou-
sands of his countrymen rallied. Although at first
successful, he was finally defeated and executed;
but his cause did not die. Morelos, a patriot of
unusual attractions and qualifications, assumed the
leadership, and after repeated vidlories the first
Declaration of Independence in ]\Iexico, Novem-
ber, 1813, was proclaimed.
Colonel Augustin Iturbide, an important per-
sonage in subsequent Mexican history, defeated
and captured Morelos. Many other patriotic lead-
ers fell, and for the next few years the spirit of
MEXICAN HISTORY. 245
independence smouldered nigh unto death. The
brave chief, Guerrero, maintained his little band
of followers in the inaccessible fastnesses of the
mountains, and by his indefatigable energy he
kept alive the sacred sparks of freedom in the
hearts of the people. In 1819 considerable suc-
cess followed his attacks upon the Spanish forces,
and in 1820 Iturbide astonished the world by de-
claring in favor of the people, and by joining his
forces to those of the brave Guerrero. With astute
intelligence he read the possibilities of the future,
and determined to turn them to his own account.
Brave, adtive, and skilled in diplomacy, he soon
became the people's favorite.
The famous Plan of Iguala, laid upon the
principles of union, civil and religious freedom,
was drawn up, and in 182 1 the combined armies
entered the capital amidst great rejoicing and
without opposition. Don Juan O'Donoju, the
sixty-fourth and last viceroy from the mother-
country, was compelled to acknowledge the inde-
pendence of Mexico. A Congress was called the
following year, but Iturbide had so ingratiated
himself into the hearts of the people that they
declared in favor of a monarchy and proclaimed
him Emperor. Under the title of Augustin I. he
was duly crowned with great pomp.
The aggressive ambition of the Emperor soon
became so apparent, however, that his popularity
rapidly waned, and the fickle Mexicans looked for
246 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
another leader. One appeared in Santa Anna, just
rising on the ever-shifting stage of Mexican politics.
He issued a pronunciamento in favor of the Re-
public, thus rallying to his standard its late sup-
porters. Finding the opposition so strong that re-
sistance was useless, Iturbide abdicated the throne
nine months after his coronation. He was per-
mitted to leave the country, but when, about a year
later, he* ventured to return he was arrested and
shot.
The next few years of Mexican history are but
a series of insurredlions, revolutions and struggles
between the various parties and military leaders to
obtain the reins of power. No form of government
existed with any degree of security. Anarchy and
rebellion stalked abroad with their attendant hor-
rors, and every peace was broken almost within
the hour of its proclamation. Santa Anna led one
turbulent fa<5lion, and twice succeeded in his am-
bitious designs to head the government; but dis-
grace followed, and he was finally obliged to flee
the country.
With the breaking out of the war with the Uni-
ted States over the disputed boundary between the
two countries and the admission of Texas into the
Union of the States, Santa Anna was recalled and
placed in command of the army. He was an effi-
cient and stalwart general, and if he could have
commanded the united efforts of the country and her
party-leaders, undoubtedly he would have driven
MEXICAN HISTORY. 247
our courageous little armies back with ease. But
even though an enemy stormed at her very gates
there were disagreements and feuds within; and
the brilliant vi(5lories, won by our gallant American
soldiers against enormous odds, might have been
rendered impossible by the concerted acftion of the
Mexican Government.
To General Scott, who led the army up the
steeps of the cordillera, who charged Cherubusco,
stormed Chapultepec, and entered the City of Mex-
ico, belongs much of the honor of final success.
Consequent upon this war the United States con-
cluded the favorable treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo,
1847, by which, for a few millions and the dis-
charge of Mexico's indebtedness to our Govern-
ment, we obtained possession of California, New
Mexico, much of Arizona, and settled the disputed
boundary line between Texas and Mexico. Little
wonder that our Sister Republic for a long time
begrudged us this vast territory, soon found to
rival her own mines in its stores of silver and gold.
For a time after this treaty peace held its merciful
sway over Mexico, rather from the utter prostration
of its people than from the stability of its Govern-
ment, and in a few years revolutions again began
to arise in the land. Then came the attempts of
foreign powers to assume the control of the Gov-
ernment, and the establishment of Maximilian
as Emperor, followed by his dethronement and
death, already described.
248 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Finally men of discretionary abilities and clear-
headed statesmanship had arisen in this troubled
country, and after throwing off the interference
from across the waters they succeeded in estab-
lishing the long-struggling Republic. The steady,
unswerving will of Juarez induced universal reform,
and while one hand was crushing insurre(5lion and
guerrilla warfare, the other was grasping the storm-
tossed Ship of State and was guiding it safe into
the Harbor of Peace.
The Constitution, framed upon that of the
United States, was at last accepted by the leaders
of the people, and our Sister Republic was enabled
to draw a long breath of security. Under the wise
and conservative rule of President Diaz she has ex-
perienced her greatest period of success, and that
the two Republics of North America may long con-
tinue to walk side by side in the full enjoyment of
national peace and prosperity is the fond hope of
every true American.
CIVIL GOVERNMENT. 249
CHAPTER XXI.
civil* GOVERNMENT.
A LTHOUGH drawn up under the most trying
■^-^ governmental conditions and the outgrowth of
national feuds the Constitution of the Republic of
Mexico is one of the most consistent and perfe6l
codes of law ever framed. It bears the date of
February 5, 1857, with various amendments down
to the present day, and is based in the main upon
the Constitution of the United States, having its
executive, legislative and judicial branches formed
substantially the same as our own.
Originally the Republic was composed of a con-
federation of nineteen states; but now it consists
of twenty-eight states, two territories and a federal
distridl, that of the City of Mexico, similar to our
District of Columbia. Upon entering into a union
the states gave up many of their rights, and are
now governed by a fundamental law or Constitu-
tion, from which there is no appeal, except by
amendments in full form of law made by a majority
vote of the legislatures of the different states of the
Republic. The states have the right to manage
their own local affairs, and theoretically they re-
250 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
served more of their rights than belong to the sev-
eral states under the Constitution of the United
States of America; but in reality the central govern-
ment of IMexico has assumed much greater powers,
except in the matter of state-tariffs.
The supreme executive power is vested in a
President eledled for a term of four years by eledl-
ors professedly chosen by the people. The admin-
istration of the various departments of the Govern-
ment is condu(5led, under the dire(5lion of the Presi-
dent, by a Cabinet of six members. Secretary of
State, Secretary of War and Navy, Secretary of
Finance, Secretary of Justice and of Public Instruc-
tion, Secretary of the Interior, Secretary of Public
Works, and Secretary of Foreign Affairs.
Under its original form the legislative powers of
the federal government were managed by one body
called the House of Deputies. The necessity for
two branches soon appearing, the Constitution was
amended so as to recognize a Senate and a House of
Deputies. At present the Senate is composed of
fifty-eight members, two from each state, including
the Federal Districft, and these are eledled by the leg-
islatures of the respedlive states. In the House of
Deputies the states are entitled to representation by
one member for every forty thousand of the popula-
tion, eledled dire6lly by the people. The senators
are eledled for a period of four years and the depu-
ties for two years, the members of each house re-
ceiving an annual salary of three thousand dollars.
CIVIL GOVERNMENT. 25I
There are by law no educational or property-
requirements for eledlion to office, although sena-
tors must be at least thirty years of age, and dep-
uties twenty-five, and both must be residents of
the states they represent. At the time of the elec-
tion of senators and deputies there is also a dupli-
cate list of alternates or substitutes elected, who,
upon the death or disability of members, are en-
titled to fill their respedlive places with all their
rights. All eledlions, either on state or federal
questions, are by secret ballot, and any male resi-
dent, who is of age, is entitled to the privilege of
voting without further qualification. The eledlions
are universally held on the Sabbath day, and al-
though nominally free and said to be decided by
a majority vote of the people, they are pra6lically
under control of the militia who, obeying federal
orders, may close the polls at any hour they may
sele6l, and may declare their favorite candidate
eledled, regardless of the number of votes cast in
his favor. As yet this seems to be a necessary
measure, for the great mass of the people are too
miserably poor to have any interest in the affairs
of the Government, and too ignorant to have any
understanding of the real meaning of popular elec-
tions, their lot being, as far as they are able to
realize, the same under whatever leader. As fast
as the masses become educated to the possibilities
of true government by the people this order of
affairs will undoubtedly correal itself. The press,
252 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
too, is nominally free in Mexico, although any
opinions publicly advocated that are not in har-
mony with the policy of the Administration brings
about a denouncemetit of the paper "as an organ
opposed to the public good," and the editors must
submit to a change of heart or go out of the news-
paper business.
The President of the Senate and the Speaker
of the House of Deputies are each eledled monthly
from the body of its members, and in case of the
default or disability of the President, the President
of the Senate becomes the chief executive, the of-
fice falling next in order to the Vice President of
the Senate, thus constituting important differences
between the legislative organizations of the two
American Republics.
There are two annual sessions of Congress, one
sitting from the first of April to the thirtieth of
May the other from the sixteenth of September to
the fifteenth of December. At the close of each ses-
sion a standing committee is selected, consisting of
one member from each state, constituting a sort of
interregnum peculiar to the Government of Mexico.
This committee acSls during vacations and in cases
of emergency, with right to confirm presidential
appointments and to transact routine business, but
with no power to rnake laws or pass bills.
The supreme judiciary is composed of eleven
judges and four supernumeraries who, in case of
disability of any of the judges, are empowered to
CIVIIv GOVERNMENT. 253
perfonn the duties of the bench. These judges
are eledled diredlly by the people for a period
of six years, the supernumeraries being elecfted on
the same ticket and for the same term of office.
The jurisdicftion of the inferior tribunals is similar
to that of the county courts of the United States.
Trial by jury is allowed in criminal cases only.
Felonies are heavily punished, and of late years
the country has been cleared of the bandits, here-
tofore infesting the land, through the severe and
unswerving policy of the authorities of ordering
all such offenders to be shot on first sight. The
higher grades of these Gentlemen of the Road,
who were pra6licing a sort of guerrilla warfare
and highway robbery during the disturbed periods
of the country, have been given positions under
the Governmejit as Rural Guards to protect the
very roads where once they robbed and murdered, i
This stroke of policy on the part of the President
has been surprisingly conducive of good results.
Another wise measure of the present administra-
tion toward those formerly holding high military
positions against the Government is that of retir-
ing all such officers on salary but without power.
The states are divided into departments, dis-
tricfts, cantons, counties, municipalities, cities,
towns, villages, hamlets, missions, haciendas and
ranches, resembling in nearly all respects and
closely following the minor divisions of the Uni-
ted States in their general government, having in
254 I'HE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
like manner their auditors, recorders, assessors,
revenue colledlors and various department officers.
The rules for filing documents are, however, differ-
ent from those of our own states, requiring the
original papers to be recorded in blank books and
deposited in the proper offices, and none but per-
sons diredlly interested are permitted to obtain
copies of them. In the register's office of some
of the cities there still exist deeds, wills and other
papers executed as far back as 1540. Stamps are
required to be affixed to all official documents, and
the mibrica^ or pen-dash, must be subjoined to
every signature in order to make it legal. Of the
several states of the Republic Chihuahua is the
largest and Jalisco contains the greatest number of
inhabitants.
Foreigners may come into possession of land
by deed or by will, provided the real estate does
not lie within sixty miles of the frontier, or within
fifteen miles of the coast. By special permission
from the President, however, they may obtain and
hold real estate anywhere in the country, although
all property held by aliens is imder certain govern-
mental restri(5lions. For example, absence from
the country with his family for more than two
years without permission from the administration,
residence outside of the Republic, even though he
has a representative on his estate, or conveyance
of his property by will or by deed to persons not
residents of the Republic, forfeits to such a propri-
civile GOVERNMENT. 255
etor his rights of ownership. Under such forfeiture
or denouncement the property must be sold to a
Mexican citizen within two years, or it will be dis-
posed of at public sale; and under the laws the
one who makes the denouncement is entitled to
one-tenth of the proceeds of the sale, the remainder
going to the absent owner, or, if deceased, it is
placed to the credit of his heirs. Mining property
is not subjedl to such restri(5lions, but is under the
control of the regular mining laws of the country,
and these are the same for non-residents as for
native proprietors.
Although much has been said about the rough
and reckless character of the people at large in
the Republic, both property and life are probably
as safe in Mexico as in most other countries. If
a tourist deports himself properly, and takes the
usual precautions with reference to his valuables,
it is not likely that either he or his purse will
suffer. Reliable police are stationed about a hun-
dred yards apart throughout the City of Mexico.
They are polite, wTll-informed, and solicitous
about the welfare of strangers, and within their
individual circles they are on the alert against
injustice, and ever ready to give any necessary
information or assistance. At night they place
their signal-lamps along the streets at regular in-
tervals to indicate where they may be found. Often
travelers in our own cities would be glad indeed to
see police lights scattered about the streets one
256 THE IvAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
hundred yards apart. It is interesting to observe
that even the most reckless drivers take the ut-
most precaution not to upset these lamps, a heavy
fine or imprisonment being in every case the re-
sult of such insolent carelessness to the signals of
authority. Herein may possibly lie the explana-
tion why there are no milk-wagons in the city,
milk being delivered by porters, or bought at the
markets. Owing partly to the stringent police
regulations and partly to the native courtesy of
the inhabitants, people move about politely, and
families may return from the theatres or cafes in
their carriages or on foot by night with as much
safety as in Washington or New York. The same
regulations are being extended to the other cities
of the Republic, under the conservative and wise
rule of the present administration.
To-day the militia takes the place largely of
the police force outside of the capital city, each
state having a military force of its own. In addi-
tion to the State Militia the general government
sustains a regular army of twenty-five thousand on
a peace-footing, although nominally twice this
number, with large reser\'es for war emergencies,
and at an annual cost of about eight million dol-
lars. The army is well drilled, and equipped with
carbines and Remington rifles, and their cavalry
with sabres of American make. In their dress-
uniforms of dark blue they make an imposing ap-
pearance and are not to be trifled with. The navy
CrVIIv GOVERNMENT. 257
consists of four or five gun-boats only serviceable
for patrol duty along coast.
The Mexican Government recognizes as its
public debt the engagements only of its legitimate
representatives, and has repudiated as illegal all
the loans negotiated under the authority of the
Maximilian administration, but freely standing
responsible for all agreements under true govern-
mental treaties. Owing to large grants made to
railroad corporations, to a revision of foreign tar-
iff laws by which a considerable redu6lion of rev-
enue has resulted, and owing to the extensive
commercial and public improvements throughout
the country, their national debt has increased,
even though the present administration has great-
ly reduced the salaries of public officials, and has
carefully considered the questions of political econ-
omy. However, the firm basis of the present Gov-
ernment, its conservative policy and its improved
financial system have so bettered the credit of
the country that bonded loans can now be made
with comparative ease.
State banks can hardly be said to exist, and
the difficulty of cashing drafts on banks outside
of the City of Mexico is sometimes a source of
considerable annoyance to travelers. The variety
of coinage in circulation in the different states is
also very troublesome, as moneys, except the adobe
dollars, gold coins, and the City of Mexico bills,
obtainjed in one city of the Republic are refused in
258 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
another. On the Vera Cruz Railway one meets
with the ludicrous and inconsistent experience of
ha\'ing the very money that is given to him in
change at one end of the road refused for return
passage by the agent at the other end. The pennies
in legal circulation in one state are often indig-
nantly cast aside by the beggars just across the
line. As a pleasant contrast to these petty money
annoyances, it is a matter of great satisfa(5lion to
travelers that the ridiculous system of passports,
so common in Europe, does not obtain in Mexico.
Tourists will be pleased to learn, also, that in the
last few years great improvements have been made
in the heretofore miserable accommodations of the
postal service, many new offices being opened and
the old ones being conducfled on more wide-awake
and systematic principles.
The question of state-tariffs is one of serious
importance to the Republic of Mexico. The sys-
tem is not recognized by the federal constitution
and is contrary to its codes; but the state govern-
ments hold that it is necessary for their continu-
ance, and, therefore, all merchandise is held sub-
ject to taxation through every state it passes, in
addition to the government duties levied on for-
eio-n goods upon their entrance into the country.
The only exception to this exa(ftion is in the Free
Zone, a belt twenty kilometres wide (a little more
than twelve miles), where foreign goods necessary
for the consumption of the people in that part of
CIVIL GOVERNMENT. 259
the country are imported free of duty. This free
belt was first established in the State of Tamauli-
pas in 1858, being thought to be conducive to state
interest, and it was san6lioned by the Federal Con-
gress three years later. It was extended in 1885
to the states of Coahuila, Chihuahua, Sonora and
the territory of Lower California. Although free
imports to this zone are carried on under stri(5l
rules and regulations, the opening up of a free
coast gives endless opportunities for the smug-
gling of goods into the more prosperous states of
the Republic, and it is therefore questionable
whether the concession is of any benefit to the
country at large. A revision of the import-duty
list, a gradual abolishment of internal tariff, and a
revolution in the sources of revenue to the coun-
try will undoubtedly result from its continued
prosperity and liberal government.
At present, state-rights are carried to their log-
ical conclusion. If goods cross the border at any
point for shipment into the interior of the country
they must go to the custom-house of each state,
where a revenue tax is levied in every instance.
As an illustration of the manner of carrying out
this system let us suppose that a car of heavy ma-
chinery enters the country at New Laredo. Certif-
icates of its value are not sufficient for the Mexican
officials. The car is unloaded and, at a consider-
able expense charged of course to the recipient,
the goods are carted to the custom-house, usually
26o THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
about a mile away, where the federal tax is levied;
then they are returned to the railway station and re-
loaded, having lost at least a full day's time by the
operation. Thirty miles farther on the railroad-car
enters the state of Tamaulipas, where it is again
unloaded, the goods carried to the custom-house,
taxed, returned and re-loaded, losing another day
or more under the rules. At Monterey the state
of Nuevo Leon has its custom-house, with the
same right to taxation, and a similar procedure is
gone through with, and so on with every state that
the car enters, until the colle6live duties have
more than doubled the original cost of the goods,
not to mention the inconveniences of the delays nor
the damages from careless handling. These meth-
ods are necessarily fatal to any enterprise requiring
foreign goods or machinery, and in course of time
the people must see the injustice of such a system
of taxation, tending as it does to the benefit of the
Mexican capitalist and manufadlurer, and to the
positive injury of the consumer.
A VISIT TO A MEXICAN VILLA. 361
CHAPTER XXII.
A VISIT TO A MEXICAN VILLA.
T^ROM these long digressions among the musty
-^ leaves of the past and the dry records of the
present, let us return to the fascinating days spent
in the capital city of the Land of the Montezumas.
Although every day has been filled with interest,'
none has delighted us more than the eventful one
that gave us admission to the beautiful villa of the
Escandon family, situated in Tacubaya, a suburban
town distant about four miles from the centre of
the city. A tramway runs there, starting, as do
most of the lines, from the Zocalo, where a gay'
and busy scene presents itself to us as we seat our-
selves on one of the iron benches to await the car.
Men of all classes cross and recross the check-
ered sunshine and shade of the delicious little
park. The courteous Spaniard is stridlly conven-
tional in his black broadcloth and silk hat, al-
though perhaps an hour ago he was dashing
along the paseo, both himself and his steed
arrayed in the full richness of Mexican attire.
Men and women of the common people, with their
crates of merchandise, baskets of fruits and vege-
262 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
tables, or bundles and babies, as the case may be,
pass us by on either hand. In and out of the Sa-
grario door comers and goers constantly surge.
Occasionally a lady of rank, attended by her maid,
crosses the square, with her face so veiled by the
folds of the mantilla that little remains visible.
In front of the Palace two sentinels pace up and
down with military precision, and in the court-
yard are others of the relief-guard ready for duty
at the bugle's call. Against the church the flower-
stands are burdened with masses of bright color
and fragrant perfumes. Every-where is the white,
streaming light of brilliant sunshine, except where
the trees above us fleck the grass with moving
shadows, or the long, straight lines of the Cathe-
dral walls blackly define themselves across the
v;alk.
At last our car comes with a whirl around the
corner; and a ride of four miles on a Mexican
tramway is not so tedious as one would expert
from the appearance of the little mules that draw
the cars. They are small in body but great in
endurance, and by an unsparing use of the whip
the drivers keep them on a dead run from start to
finish, except when halted at the instance of a
passenger. To us the way was so full of interest
that it seemed exceeding short.
Passing through the city we observed many
massive buildings that speak well of the present
prosperity of Mexico, while the rich, carved fronts
A VISIT TO A MEXICAN VILLA. 263
and sky-reaching towers of fine cathedrals tell of
the time when Church power was pre-eminent in
the land. Many of these sacred edifices have been
confiscated, and are now used for various secular
purposes. At length the way lay across the arches
of the stone aquedudl leading from Chapultepec,
and then out through green fields, where the road
is bordered by irrigating ditches fringed with the
graceful branches of the willow. Mexicans carry-
ing to the city markets their wares and vegetables,
either strapped across their own backs or slung
across the backs of burros, constantly pass us on
our way. The loads of pulque are comical sights,
for pig-skins are filled with it, and then tied to-
gether by the feet, two and two, and thrown across
the burros, from whose backs they dangle like
jelly-fat pigs, their sides apparently shaking with
inward laughter.
The Mexicans relate a ludicrous story for the
benefit of curious Americans who insist on learn-
ing how these pig-skins, in such universal use, are
obtained apparently whole: The pig, as the story
runs, is tied by the tail to a tree, and there made
to fast for a period of nine days. At the end of
the stated time a peon approaches and holds an
ear of corn at a tempting distance from its nose,
when the almost famished pig becomes so frantic
at the sight of food that it literally jumps out of
its skin in order to secure the corn.
Tacubaya is little more than a village, but, as
264 THE IvAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
usual, it has its grassy plaza, at which the street-
car route euds. From this point we had but a
short walk to the place we were to visit and soon
we reached the gate, presented our pass to the
portero and were admitted to a large park studded
with magnificent old trees and beautiful with rare
flowers in full blocm. When at length we had
arrived at the mansion we found the housekeeper,
a man, waiting to receive us. Men, almost exclu-
sively, are employed as house-servants in the pri-
vate establishments as well as in the hotels of
Mexico. This man was an old family-retainer, and
having grown gray in the service now held com-
plete charge of this elegant home. The owners
have been in Europe for many years, and even
when in Mexico they spend but little time here,
as they have several spacious residences in and
about the city, all of which are kept in as perfe(5l
readiness as though the master were hoiirly ex-
pelled. The family is one of the wealthiest in the
country and they live like very princes.
The house has no especial architedlural beauty,
except its massiveness and simplicity. It is two
stories high, square and plain, with a large, bowed
front, and surrounded by a broad veranda and an
arcade. Inside it is like the pictured dreams of
fairy-land, every room being a marvel of richness
and beauty. There are several reception-parlors,
a breakfast and a dining-hall, elegant card-apart-
ments and a music-room. The latter opens into
A VISIT TO A MEXICAN VILLA. 265
the large double parlors, which are in the front of
the house, and from which there is a beautiful and
grand view out over the sloping lawn, through the
vista of imposing trees, to the country beyond, even
to the snow-capped peaks of the twin volcanoes
visible above the horizon. These apartments are
magnificently furnished with brocaded satin up-
holstery and hangings, and are lighted from ele-
gant chandeliers of solid crystal that sparkle like
massive diamonds in the morning sunlight.
The bric-a-brac and vertii about the house, gath-
ered from all parts of • the world, are marvelous in
the extreme. There is everything in the way of
ornamentation that an exquisite taste could sug-
gest, or money buy from the hand of art. Beauti-
ful statuettes of Dresden china stand in the dainty
cabinets, and lovely flower-ornaments in porcelain, .
rivaling nature in their delicacy of color and text-
ure ; large bronze figures and alabaster vases rest
on marble and onyx pedestals, busts of famous old
Romans, \\\\\\\2j{.\\x^ fac-si miles oi Roman triumphal
arches, and a complete reproduction of the Coli-
seum done in Italian marble ; and there are hun-
dreds of pi(5lures as fine as the most artistic hand
has ever painted. Some of these, very large and
by the old masters, are of ecclesiastic subjedls ;
others, of more modern date, pictured landscapes
and figures, and some are the most exquisite of
gems, as perfedl, and as beautiful, and as dainty,
as any heart can wish.
266 THE LAND OF THK MONTEZUMAS.
Over a mantel in the dining-hall is a lovely
painting of a Scottish moorland, from which arises
a grim watch-tower with the illumined face of a
clock in its walls. As we look again, questioning
if the hands are not moving, it strikes the hour of
the day softly, and with a far-off cadence as if
sounding in very truth from the tower of some
lonely castle. In the library a large Italian mosaic
attradls our attention. It is a marvel of skillfully
arranged bits of colored stones whose rich effects
must be seen to be realized. It represents Christ
rescuing Peter in his fruitless attempt to walk
upon the waters of Galilee. There is an angry
sea, with the waves rolling and tossing high before
the wind. The crest of every wave is set with
mother-of-pearl that gleams and glimmers as if sil-
vered by the light of the moon riding wildly among
the dispersing clouds. A boat rocks in the dis-
tance, and in the foreground are the figures of
Christ and of Peter surrounded by a celestial light,
whose brilliant beams make one of the chief beau-
ties of the pidlure, throwing out with wonderful
art the central chara(5lers. This rare piece of art
hangs over a massive secretary composed entirely
of inlaid ivory and mother-of-pearl. In the same
room are two cabinets of solid rose-wood inlaid
with ivory in very intricate and beautifully artistic
patterns. These are filled with elegantly bound
books, in Spanish, French and Latin, that testify to
the refinement and literary tastes of the princely
A VISIT TO A MEXICAN VILLA. 267
owners. Portraits of many members of the family-
hang here and there, and show them to be a
courtly looking race of the Spanish type found in
the northern provinces — pure blondes with golden
hair and azure eyes, deep lined and heavily fringed.
There are now left but six survivors of this family.
From the library we pass into another recep-
tion hall, and then into the billiard-room which is
ornamented with rich fur rugs, while upon the
walls are arranged a shield bearing the family
coat-of-arms, stag-heads, swords, spears, bows and
arrows, coats-of-mail and other paraphernalia of
the hunter and soldier. In the hall-way we come
upon a magnificent, antique clock, very large and
with heavy mahogany frame, grown rich with age.
It combines the duties of a chronometer, a barome-
ter, and an almanac, and at the turning of the
hour it chimes forth an exquisite peal of bells.
Now we enter the court, and find this to be the
chief charm of the house. It is used as the gen-
eral sitting-room. Unlike the courts of the town
houses it is not open to the sky, but runs up two
stories and is then enclosed with a glass dome. It
is square, construdled in the centre of the house,
and around it all the other rooms cluster. Here
the finest of the ornaments and the richest of the
paintings are gathered. It abounds in the most
luxuriously easy chairs and inviting satin-covered
divans, and is a perfe6l bower of beauty, elegance
and courtly comfort. In one corner stands a music-
268 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
box almost as large as a piano, with a case of rose-
wood delicately inlaid with mother-of-pearl and
jewels. Its music may be either powerful as a
band, or faintly sweet as the lute, accordingly as
the rollers are seledled, and with a full combina-
tion of which the entire force of an orchestra may
resound.
From this spacious apartment runs the broad
stair- way to the upper story. It is of marble, and
deeply panelled along the side with Mexican onyx,
relieved by several beautiful statues set in deep
niches. The upper floor is occupied entirely with
sleeping apartments simply but elegantly furnished.
We missed the air of home, which, in the States,
would have been given them by the addition of
those trifles of which we Americans are partic-
ularly fond, or which, perhaps, their owners would
have supplied if they had been living there. Be-
fore leaving we visited the kitchen, and this, like
all the rest of the house, was in perfe(5l order and
as neat as the most fastidious Yankee house-keeper
could desire, from its polished white floor and
tables to the bright, copper cooking-utensils hang-
ing in rows upon the walls. The range was really
artistic, being very large and made of brick covered
with blue and white tiles. This is the only place
in all this elegant home for a fire, as even the
Spanish nobility shares the prejudice of the lower
classes against the use of artificial heat in this
climate, and prefer to wrap themselves in their
A VISIT TO A MEXICAN VILLA. 269
elaborate mantillas and scrapes during the cool of
the evening, rather than risk the enjoyment and
cheering comfort of a blazing fire-place.
From the house we were condudled to the
family chapel standing near by, and which we
found to be a dainty bit of ecclesiastical arcliite6l-
ure. It is ornamented with richly tinted windows
that admit the light through the figures of saints
and martyrs. Fine paintings and the elaborately
decorated altar, with its images of Jesus and of
Mary, combine to beautify this saintly place. On
the grounds there are also houses for the servants,
a bowling alley, boat- and bath-houses, a conserva-
tory, and extensive and richly equipped stables.
The whole place is so beautiful and grand that
one wonders how the owners can prefer to wan-
der in foreign climes rather than remain in their
own elegant homes, under the sunny skies of
their native land.
On our return from this magnificent villa for
the living, we visited one of the cities for the dead,
the cemetery of San Fernando, where many of
Mexico's illustrious men have found their last
home. Some rest in the earth under stately mar-
bles, others in the compartments with which the
sides of the walls are provided in tiers of three,
just large enough to admit a casket, the faces
being sealed with marble slabs and respe^lively
engraved with the name and date of death of the
deceased. These vaults are either boiig-ht or rent-
270 1*HE I.AND 01^ THE MONTEZUMAS.
ed for a certain number of years, after which the
authorities are at liberty to dispose of the remains
by burial in a common grave.
The tomb of Juarez is here, and is the point of
attradlion in the cemetery. It is marked by a line,
life-sized figure, in marble, of the great conqueror,
lying at full length in the arms of his mistress,
Mexico, represented by the figure of a beautiful
woman. In writing of the different heroes resting
in this cemetery, Ober has a paragraph so ripe
with the condensed history of storm-tossed Mexico
that it deserves a place in every book written on
this question :
" Here lie buried many of the unfortunate gen-
erals and leaders of the people, who have been
executed by their countrymen, either by the people
because they leaned toward Spain, or by the
Spaniards because they favored the people. They
died for their country, all of them, and through
their deaths, although they fell fighting on dif-
ferent sides, is their beloved land now made glo-
rious. I wonder if there will be any reproaches in
order, when the last trump shall summon all these
heroes to their final awards. Let us imagine them
pleading their cases :
" 'I,' for instance, says Iturbide, 'struck the de-
cisive blow that freed my country from the yoke
of Spain.'
*"Yes,' will reply some rank republican, 'and set
up an empire of your own.'
A VISIT TO A MEXICAN VILLA. 27 1
" 'But I first blew the trumpet-call of freedom,'
will claim the bold Hidalgo. And some member
of the Church party will retort: 'And in so doing,
sealed the doom of your Catholic mother.'
" The irrepressible Santa Anna will doubtless
attempt to prove that he was the savior of Mexico ;
but some of his numerous enemies wall fling at
him his supreme selfishness, and enumerate his
defeats at the hands of the Americans,
" Guerrero and Comonfort, and a host of gen-
erals who made their fortunes and lost their lives
in the cause, fighting in the light that then shone
on them, will not allow themselves to be ignored.
Miramon and Mejia will point to their martyrdom
in the cause of the Church and the Empire, while
Maximilian will loftily claim that the imperial
government he represented, and gave his life for,
was the only one fitted for Mexico. Juarez will
undoubtedly rest securely, confident that the peace
and progress resulting from his administration is
his title to a seat among the elecfl. But what will
they all say when there appears the apparition
of the great warrior who made their feeble exercise
of power a possibility ? Will they not shrink be-
fore his terrible features, and allow him a hearins:
without interniption ? Cortes, the conqueror, the
chosen of the Lord, the fighter of the faith, the
murderer of Indians of royal blood, the founder of
Spanish dominion in New Spain — all must bow
before him, unless the Aztecs, whom he destroyed,
273 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
be allowed to have a voice in the matter. Monte-
zuma and Guatemozin ! what burning brands ye
could cast at the Spanish bigot ! Would he bow
his head before your reproaches, or would he fling
at you the long record of the vi6lims of the sacri-
fice murdered by you and your ancestors? The
record of Cortes is not a true one, if he would not
overwhelm you with evidence that he did the
world a service in destroying you and your re-
ligion.
" Now, not all these heroes are buried here in
San Fernando, but the few that are, having repre-
sented politics of such different complexions, sug-
gest the thoughts expressed above. Who is to
judge which of these men were in the right ? It
is my opinion that no more difficult problem will
arise at the kst judgment, than when these Mex-
ican heroes shall put in their appearance for a final
award."
HERE AND THERE ABOUT THE CITY. 273
CHAPTER XXIII.
HERE AND THERE ABOUT THE CITY.
^npHERE still remain many places of interest
-^ about this ancient capital. A morning drive
through the principal business streets, through the
residence portions, and then out into the squalid
quarters of the poor, and we have a fair idea of the
extent and character of the city. San Francisco
street is perhaps the main thoroughfare. It starts
from the central plaza, and its first few squares are
faced with many massive business blocks and some
fine churches. The Iturbide Hotel stands but half
a square from the plaza, and further out the Guard-
iola faces the same street. Across from this hotel,
overlooking the little grass plat known as Guardi-
ola Square, is one of the noble residences of the
Escandon family. The lower story is now given
up to railroad offices. Adjacent to this property is
the famous Tile House, which has long attradled
the attention of tourists to this city, and has been
described in our popular magazines as one of the
noted houses of America. The entire exterior of
this unique residence is composed of white porce-
lain tiles daintily decorated with blue, its square
274 1*KE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
stru6lure being relieved by jutting balconies, richly
encased windows and carved arch-ways.
Farther on, the street passes the Alameda, and
runs on out to the grand paseo, taking a different
name at almost every square; for the Mexicans
seem to have feared that the long list of names in
their Saints Calendar, and in their Blue Book,
would outnumber the streets in their city, and
hence this absurd attempt to honor the names of
their noted people. Fortunately the custom is dy-
ing out, and probably will in time be entirely ob-
literated, to the joy of the stranger who now finds
himself lost in a maze of names when attempting
to follow even one continuous street.
The homes of the members of the Legation in
Mexico rival each other in beauty and grandeur.
Many have extensive grounds that teem with the
abundant and varied vegetation of this almost
tropical clime. The National Library is a princely
colle6lion of volumes that repose under the stately
walls of a confiscated monastery, whose richly
carved front is one of the most impressive in Mex-
ico. What was formerly the chapel of this monas-
tery is now the main chamber, and before its con-
fiscation it was a series of arched recesses contain-
ing side altars, or devotional stations, where the
cowled head bowed in deep humility. Each arch-
way holds to-day cases reaching from floor to
vaulted roof, filled with a high order of literature.
The Monte de Piedad, or Government Pawn
HERE AND THERE ABOUT THE CITY. 275
Shop, facing one end of the plaza, is one of the
noblest buildings of the Republic, both from its
massive grandeur and for its enormous beneficence
as a governmental charity. It was founded in the
flourishing days of Spanish dominion by the noted
Count de Regla, who endowed it from his abun-
dance with several hundred thousand dollars; and
in spite of revolutions and wars it has continued
unhalting in its benefits to the needy, while at the
same time it has more than doubled its dowry.
Its objecft is to enable the destitute to obtain ad-
vancements on personal property of whatever kind,
and at a low rate of interest. A three-fourths pay-
ment is made to the owner on the valuation de-
cided upon by two appraisers connected with the
institution. So long as the interest is kept up the
article remains merely as collateral, and may be
redeemed by the owner at any time on payment of
the original loan. After forfeiture it is put on sale,
and, if not disposed of in a stated time, it is oSered
at public auflion, any increase of price above the
sum advanced being placed with interest to the ac-
count of the borrower, or his heirs, for a hundred
years, when, if not claimed, it reverts to the insti-
tution. The assortments, here to be found, of jew-
els, ornaments, bric-a-brac, lace mantillas, and rare,
old flounces of which the Mexican woman is so
fond, testify to the decaying fortunes of Spanish
nobility since the government coffers ceased to
empty their riches into such restridled channels.
276 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
By every means in their power tliey seek to keep
up the semblance of their former glory. Many a
treasure is given up to enable some family in
straitened circumstances to enjoy with the appar-
ent ease of better days the pleasure of an opera
season or the gayeties of the winter balls. The
meaner pawn-shops, of which the city is full,
contain a heterogeneous mass of articles from the
lowest classes, and are mainly the places for dis-
posing of stolen goods, or for the hiding of them
until search has been abandoned.
The mint is another place of great importance,
its entire coinage of the silver and gold moneys of
the country counting up into the billions. The
shops are attra6live places, although the great
stalls of all sorts of goods, on the outside of the
regular stores, and under the great arched portales,
are of more interest to the tourist because more
foreign. Ladies of rank in Mexico seldom enter
the stores to do their shopping, the goods being
either taken to them in their carriages, or sent to
their residence for inspe6lion, while the buying of
furniture, and shopping of the heavier sort, is left
to the male members of the family. Until recently
a Spanish lady would have been disgraced if seen
walking on the streets of the city, especially if un-
attended. Under the increasing influence of the
American and French elements, the Spanish cus-
toms are growing more liberal and less tinged
with the false ethics of mediaeval days.
HERE AND THERE ABOUT THE CITY. 277
Perhaps no point in Mexico inspires more ro-
mantic interest in the heart of the tourist than
the so-called Floating Gardens; and, therefore, it
is with no little enthusiasm that w^ start on our
trip to these isles sacred to the memory of early
Aztec occupation in the country. By street-car
we reach the borders of the Viga, or canal,
where, on alighting, we are immediately beset by
a score of vociferous boatmen, whose gaily deco-
rated crafts lie on the waters of the canal waiting
for passengers to take this trip of pleasure. Our
friend knows the Mexican chara(5ler too well to
show any interest in a trip of this sort, or even
to intimate an intention of going on the canal,
until the crowd falls away and the few persistent
boatmen have lessened their charges. Finally he
makes a bargain with one of these fellows, who
has a comfortable looking boat, and for something
less than one-fifth of the original demand.
The Viga is exceedingly interesting, with its
banks shaded by graceful trees, and with its boats
passing to and fro, stirring in the breeze. It is a
narrow strip of water, intended only for small
boats, and is the great thoroughfare by which the
natives bring in their loads of vegetables for the
city markets. Our boatman propels us with a sort
of gentle, undulating motion by pushing with his
long pole, now against the shore, now against the
bottom of the canal, keeping time with snatches of
song interrupted by the exchange of sallies with
278 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
his fellows. Whenever a bridge is neared he low-
ers his flag and then carefully replaces it after
passing, and on we glide under the low arch of
the custom-house station through which every
boat going into or out of the city must pass, and if
carrying any merchandise whatever must pay its
tax to the Government. Any attempt to evade
this universal tariff on the commerce of the coun-
try incurs the probability of a fine, confiscation and
imprisonment, so stringent are the internal rev-
enue laws.
At length we reach the famous Floating Gar-
dens, which, however, no longer float. They are
simply little islands interlaced with strips of water
by which they are made exceedingly fruitful.
Tradition tells us that when the early Aztecs were
but a savage tribe in the valley they were so beset
by enemies that, in order to protedl themselves
and their produdls, they constructed these mova-
ble islands by making huge basket-shaped pockets
of the rushes growing along the shore. These
they filled with earth, and by buoying them with
poles they could be towed about, out of the reach
of the enemy.
With the accumulation of earth and vegetation,
and with the lowering of the waters of the lake,
these floating islands have become solid land ; and
although some travelers affirm that a few movable
islands are still to be found out in the deep lake to
bear witness to the truth of this myth of the past,
HERE AND THERE ABOUT THE CITY. 279
one is, nevertheless, strongly inclined to be incred-
ulous of a story so tempting to the romance-loving
natures of the narrators of these tales. Some of
the modern historians, however, give us a modified
view of these historic Gardens, that bears a closer
semblance to the true explanation. From them
we learn that they were probably constructed by
cutting sedlions from the interwoven growths of the
canes and rushes matted with debris that marred
portions of the lake's surface. By piling upon
this slightly floating fabrique sufficient earth to
sustain vegetation, gardens and homes were made
for the wanderers driven here and there by tribes
more savage and more powerful than themselves.
These garden-plats rose and fell with the waters
of the lake, and perhaps shifted about slightly from
place to place until their depth and growth caused
them to rest firmly upon -the lake bottom. It is
said that there are still open places along the
causeways between the canals where the natives
can dive through from one to another; and a story
is told of a convi(5l who escaped in this way from
a boat, diving and rising to the surface on the other
side of the causeway and thus successfully eluding
his pursuers.
A little Indian village is colledled at the point
where we alighted, a pulque-stand being its out-
post. We regaled our boatman with a glass of
this vile beverage, the effe(5ls of which were notice-
able in his increased acSlivity on the return trip.
28o THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
The village is composed of a few scattered huts
built of cane-stalks, and roofed with strips of ma-
guey. The floors are the bare earth, but the few
into which we looked were swept, and as clean as
though of wood. The sole furniture consisted of a
large rush mat, serving as bed and chair. Each
hut has its surrounding garden of vegetables, or
flowers; and bouquets of both were offered us at
every turn, for the natives have an ingenious way
of coloring and cutting the fleshy portions of the
turnip into shell-like flowers with which they
tempt the purse of the tourist.
These island-gardens are conne(5led by frail
wooden bridges, the passage-ways between them
being little more than ditches which serve to irri-
gate the land. If more moisture is required the
laborious native dips up the water from the lake
and pours it over his precious gardens, which bring
him, at best, but the scantiest livelihood. The
land is further fertilized by scraping up the rich
mud from the bottoms and spreading it upon the
surface.
Our return was by the same route as the out-
going trip, but the novelty of the ride and of the
scene was too great for monotony, and almost un-
willingly we stepped upon the shore again at the
point where we were to take a car to the city.
While waiting we watched the drilling of a com-
pany of recruits from the Mexican army who were
going through their graceful evolutions, not to the
HERE AND THERE ABOUT THE CITY. 281
stentorian voice of military command, but to the
musical notes of the bugle, every sound of which
indicates a corresponding movement just as def-
initely as the " Shoulder Arms," " Present Arms,"
" Forward March," of our militia tallies.
The Republic of Mexico sustains a large stand-
ing-army, but needs comparatively few peniten-
tiaries and prisons, as a considerable portion of
her criminals are drafted into army service. On
their caps of white cloth are bands with letters in
black indicating not only that they are convi<5ls
but also their term of service. Some of these con-
vi6l-soldiers bear upon their countenances greater
evidences of brutal criminality than any such
badge can indicate ; while others have faces rather
pitiful than wicked. These enforced companies are
officered from the academies and are under con-
stant sun-eillance of eye and trigger. The slightest
sign of an attempt to escape from the barracks
or the ranks is but a signal for the swift-flying
bullet. Some of these men are as dainty with the
needle as any woman, and occasionally there may
be seen some rough fellow working on the march
on a piece of gossamer embroidery that fairly flies
under his deftly plying fingers. Before the influx
of foreigners had brought a demand for such work
the fine embroideries and airy drawn- work of the
Mexicans could have been purchased in the coun-
try for a mere song; but now the song must be set
to notes of gold and silver, value for value.
282 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
The curious featlier-work pidlures and unique
rag-images are cliaracSleristic souvenirs that every
tourist wishes to take with him as mementos of
his trip to Mexico. The art of working on feath-
ers flourished in the olden days of the Montezu-
mas, and among the rich and elaborate presents
received by Cortes from the Aztec Emperor were
many beautiful cloaks and robes finely wrought in
feathers. The handiwork consists of the tinted
and many-colored feathers wrought into complete
pi(5lures, as daintily portrayed as if the work of an
artist's brush, and yet it is done by as uncleanly
looking Indians as can be imagined.
The making of rag-images is another curiously
artistic industry. Their frame-work, or body, is of
moulded glue, and this is then covered with cloth,
in exa6l tint, and form, and dress, of the character
represented. These images are taken from every
phase of Mexican life, from the gaily attired cabal-
lero on his richly caparisoned steed to the lowest
lepero of the streets ; and every detail of complex-
ion, feature and dress is imitated to perfedlion, from
the bright buckles and silver spurs of the rider to
the rags and dirt of the beggar.
Another rich treat awaited us on our visit to
the San Carlos Academy, the great Picfture Gallery
of Mexico, founded something over a hundred
years ago by King Charles of Spain. Here we
would have been glad to devote days, rather than
hours, to its enchanting halls hung with a collec-
HERE AND THERE ABOUT THE CITY. 283
tion of paintings as magnificent and artistic as
can be found in many of the noted galleries of
France and Italy. There is, however, an over-
abundance of ecclesiastical subje6ls, and one al-
most wearies of the saints and madonnas that
look from every wall and corner, although many
of them are exquisite works of art. The first hall
we entered was filled with the paintings of Mexi-
can artists of two or three centuries ago, numbers
of them being noble in conception and beautiful
in execution, and all worthy of careful study.
The next room contained fine examples of the
European schools, many being originals of the
old masters, while many others are masterly cop-
ies. Two were pointed out to us as genuine Mu-
rillos, one being his St. John and the other his
Good Samaritan, the latter represented by a slen-
der figure of a young man with the almost dead
form of a stricken brother upon his shoulder,
under whose load he would have sunk exhausted
but for the kindly assistance of his guardian angel,
who walks beside him and helps to carry the over-
heavy burden. In the marvelous massing of the
lights and shades in these pidlures seems to lie
the secret of this artist's power.
Three master-pieces are from the brush of the
great Rubens, one being an almost life-sized De-
scent from the Cross. There is an exquisite Vir-
gin Mary by Perugino, a painting attributed to
Titian, a Saint Sebastian from the hand of Van
284 THE I.AND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Dyke, and many others from the Italian and
Dutch schools.
The other halls abound in the works of Mexi-
can artists of the last century, the Las Casas Pro-
tedling the Aztecs, by Felix Parra, being one of
the most noted paintings of the country. A very
large pidlure of Columbus at the Court of Ferdi-
nand and Isabella, offering the fruits of his voyage
to the New World, and some beautiful landscapes
of the exquisite Valley of Mexico, by the re-
nowned Velasco, are also to be seen here. Per-
haps the most striking painting of the entire col-
le6tion, and the one that will remain longest in
the memory, is The Deluge, by Coglieti. From
out the vast waste of waters only one rock pro-
je6ls, rough and rugged. A powerful lioness, with
one of her cubs in her mouth and another at her
feet, clings to one side of the wave-washed cliff,
looking out over the angry billows, with eyes that
speak her wild and hopeless terror. But a few
steps away a little group of people cling to this
last refuge from the ever-rising waters — man and
beast remembering not their animosities in the
face of Nature's threatening powers. There is a
tender mother with her babe dying in her wearied
arms; here is a gray-haired man holding the beau-
tiful form of his daughter in his agonized embrace,
vainly endeavoring to revive her spirit gone be-
yond recall; and there is a little knot of children
feebly sustaining one another in their awful suffer-
HERE AND THERE ABOUT THE CITY. 285
ings, and all in tragic suspense. The grouping is
beautiful ; the efFedls of the flesh-tints marvelous ;
the lowering sky true to nature, and the realistic
finish is in the height of art. Life lives upon the
canvas, while the gray-white form of the daughter
makes one almost feel the cold touch of death.
Every face expresses the agonizing terror of the
creeping, rising waters soon to engulf them all.
One gazes long upon the scene, transfixed, horror-
stricken, yet fascinated with the terrible anguish
portrayed — a pi6ture that no one can look upon
and forget.
In the Academy there is a School of Drawing
where pupils may receive a course of le(5tures and
instru<5lion under competent teachers; and any stu-
dent showing marked ability is permitted to con-
tinue the study into the higher grades under the
tuition of the Government.
The bull-fight in Mexico, as everybody knows,
like base-ball and horse-racing in the United
States, is the popular, open-air amusement. For
some reason, possibly to prevent the gathering of
too great a throng, this cruel pastime is not per-
mitted within the city limits, but at points just be-
yond the city line, and reached by tramway or local
trains, the bull-fight, with all the horrors of ancient
savagery, may be seen on every Sunday and every
Feast-day of the year. Crowds of all classes gather
in the great arena to watch the exciting scene and
to listen to the enlivening music of the great brass
286 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
orchestra, applauding wildly as man or beast falls.
Several horses and bulls are generally killed at
every successful entertainment; but the brilliantly
attired toi'eadores and picadores are so protecfted
and guarded that they are seldom slain, although
frequently more or less seriously wounded through
their rashness. Here, as elsewhere, when man
fights with the lower animals, he takes care to give
himself every possible advantage, and then boasts
of his superior strength and courage whenever he
comes out of the fray vi(5torious. The most inter-
esting feature of the entire performance is, perhaps,
the finish, when the matador^ it is said, steps into
the ring and gives his coup de grdce to the nearly
exhausted beast, by thrusting his sword straight to
the heart of his vidlim, as over-matched and baited
he makes his final but futile charge. Our party
was often invited to these thoroughly Mexican
amusements, but we declined, and, therefore, the
reader will be spared a further description of this
inhuman sport.
Our last little trip in the City of Mexico was
taken one sunny afternoon, for all the afternoons
here are sunny in this delightful season, by street-
car out to the Noche Triste tree, where Cortes
rested from the labors of that terrible night when
his proud band had been driven from the city, and
only a sad remnant remained. Just beyond the
tree is a church that bears the evidence of its great
antiquity, and it is said to be over three and a-half
HERE AND THERE ABOUT THE CITY. 287
centuries old, having been built by the order of the
Conqueror, a few years after the final overthrow of
the Aztec empire. The tree is a gnarled, old cy-
press, large in girth, but with scanty and weather-
worn branches, as the ravages of time have robbed
it of its youthful vigor. Part of its heart has been
burned out by an Indian jealous of its fame as con-
nedled with the great Cortes. It is now surround-
ed by a high iron fence that efife(5lually prote(5ls it
from such depredations, and from the knife and
hammer of the relic-hunting tourist. On this spot
where the Conqueror of the Aztecs gave his adieu
to the city of the past, we too will say adieu to
the city of to-day.
288 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
CHAPTER XXIV.
TIERRAS CALIENTES.
^npRAVEL, like love, is a passion that grows by
-*■ what it feeds upon. There is ever a beyond
that one longs to visit, a scene farther on that
attra6ls by its enchanting distance. If that scene
is clothed with the luxuriant vegetation of undying
Bummer, and is laid amidst views of surpassing
grandeur under the blue skies of the tropics, all
the more eagerly one will grasp the opportunity to
realize such a life-dream. The promise of a reali-
zation like this is before us, for on the morn of the
morrow we start, a merry party, on a bright pil-
grimage to the Hot Lands of Mexico.
Passing through the suburbs by an old cause-
way leading to Guadalupe, the towers and domes
of whose Cathedral smile down a benign benedic-
tion, while on the otlier hand the Custom-house
frowns upon us, we are soon out of the city.
Glimpses of Lake Tezcuco are now and then
caught off to the right ; and across the valley we
come into the territory most suited to the culti-
vation of the maguey. Fields on fields of this
enormous plant stretch away for miles on every
TIERRAS CALIENTES. 289
side, lining in concise rows both hill and dale with
its thrifty growths.
At San Juan we pass in sight of two of the
great earth-pyramids attributed to the ancient
Toltecs, who had here two of their principal tem-
ples, one to the Sun-god, and the other to his sis-
ter-wife, the Moon-goddess. From this distance
these mounds appear as works of nature rather
than as works of man — great pyramidal hills over-
grown with cadli, wild-grass and weeds. Otumba
soon greets us with its memories of that moment-
ous battle won, as if by superhuman efforts, by the
Spaniards against the innumerable host of Aztecs
a few days after the historic Night of Sorrow.
As we climb to the higher level of the plateau
the scene grows wilder, and the mountainous sur-
roundings more rugged. Bits of verdant meadows,
alive with herds of cattle, here and there lie green
at the foot of rocky hills. From a commanding
crest we gaze back and down into the fair Vale of
Anahuac ; and through the clear, thin air the beau-
tiful city we have left behind shines dimly in the
distance. Like blue-tossed waves the mountains
rise, veering and ever changing as we advance ;
and in their clasping arms lie the valleys softly
green as the sea-foam. A dashing brook threads
its silvery way beneath feathering branches ; the
grim walls of a hacienda merge into a distant hill-
side, and a winding roadway opens into a dusty,
brown village, where the faces of the Indian vil-
290 THfi LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
lagers are as brown as the walls of their adobe
huts.
At length we halt at Apam, the great centre of
the maguey region and pulque-shipping, whence
daily freight-trains carry hundreds of gallons of
pulque to the city markets. It is yet morning as
we reach the station at Apazaco where we take the
branch-line to Puebla. We have risen to an alti-
tude of more than a thousand feet above that of
the City of Mexico in these few hours, and are now
in the historic state of Tlascala, the smallest in the
Republic, but without whose aid Cortes would
have failed utterly in his mighty enterprise, and
the house of the Montezumas possibly would be
still reigning in the land. As we swing round
toward Puebla the grandly pi6luresque mountain,
Malinche, towers high upon our vision. This noble
peak is Cortes' everlasting monument, its present
name being the same as that by which he was
known to the Indians. Popocatapetl has come
startlingly near, and its mighty elevation is plainly
visible from wooded slopes to snow-crowned crest.
Ixtaccihuatl extends her giant form beyond, and
even the white, vapory cone of Orizaba is outlined
against the deep azure of the eastern sky. As the
sun reaches the meridian the clustering domes and
tovv^ers of Puebla, brilliantly set in rich -colored
tiles, appear, and soon we alight to begin our
sight-seeing in this beautiful city. There is no
time to lose in encompassing its novel and curious
TIERRAS CALIENTES. 29 1
attra(5lions, during the short period of our stay, for
its charms are indeed many.
The city was founded the first ten years after
Spanish occupancy, and still preserves the essen-
tial chara(5teristics of the mother-country, although
its possession has been battled for and won by
various powers. Just three centuries after the
founding of the city it was wrested from Spanish
bondage by the victorious troops of Iturbide; in
1847 General Scott entered its streets without op-
position; the French suffered defeat before its
walls in 1862, but captured the city the next
year, only to lose it again four years later to the
conquering arm of General Diaz.
After a brief rest in one of the most luxuriant
plazas we had yet seen, and a hearty luncheon in
a neighhonng posa(/a, we entered the grand Cathe-
dral whose towers, as the custom runs, look down
upon the leafy verdure of the square. Hardly is
there a cathedral in the New World that more
nearly rivals in grandeur that of the City of Mex-
ico than this ; and certainly no city of the Repub-
lic has been more favored with miraculous demon-
strations. Many years ago a shell was found here,
bearing beneath its enameled surface the reputed
image of the Virgin, and believed by the natives
to possess supernatural powers ; another image of
the Virgin imprinted upon a nun's sleeve, it is
claimed, by divine means, has connected with it
an incredible story of its discovery and of the
292 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
many miracles it has performed ; according to com-
mon opinion there is a veritable picture of the
Saviour here, and held in universal reverence; and
every church has its relics of martyrs and saints
thought to have performed mysterious cures and
to be efficacious against the ills of both body and
mind.
The interior of the Cathedral is decorated with
the beautiful Mexican onyx quarried but a few
miles from Puebla. There are some rare paint-
ings and old tapestries within, and many memen-
toes of sacred import to the faithful. The towers
give a magnificent view of the city and surround-
ing country adorned with the lofty white-crowned
peaks and the dark mountain of the nearer Malin-
che. Other fine churches and flower-embowered
plazas and points of interest are visited, and a
drive is taken through the broad, clean streets of
the fair city. One of the principal charms of the
place lies in the prevalent use of gaily colored tiles
for church domes, towers, roofs, and even for
house-exteriors, giving an enlivening gala-eflfedl
to the whole town.
The afternoon has half slipped away when we
take the tramway for Cholula, seven miles away.
Cortes described this ancient city as one of the
fairest in Mexico, second only to the Capital itself
in population and in wealth, of unequaled magnifi-
cence in its temples and religious appointments,
and reverenced as the sacred city of the Aztecs.
TIERRAS CALIENTES. 293
With the overthrow of the heathen religion its im-
portance and power rapidly declined. Its hun-
dreds of mosques have given way to a few
churches, bearing the cross of Christ, and all-suffi-
cient for the nine or ten thousand people that
make up the city of to-day. The most attractive
feature is the great pyramid standing here in mute,
yet invincible testimony of an ancient civilization
now buried in the deep, dead Sea of the Past,
whose darksome waters are pierced only by the
shadowy hand of tradition. This monument
points to the Toltecs as the probable builders.
Like the other pyramids already described this
seems at first sight to be a natural mound, but ex-
cavations have proved its stru6ture to be of alter-
nate layers of clay and sun-burnt brick. Origi-
nally, too, it was encased in adobe, but this has
long since weathered away, and ca(5li and weeds
have taken its place. At its base the pyramid is
one thousand and sixty feet square; it is two hun-
dred and four feet high, and has a square top, one
hundred and sixty-five feet across. From this ele-
vation the beautiful temple to Quetzalcoatl, the
God of Air, once reared itself aloft; but to-day a
church to the Virgin occupies the same site. One
corner of this sacred mound has been cut away by
the iconoclast of modern progress that the tram-
way may carry people to and from its very base.
Traces of terraces are still visible on the slopes,
and a winding walk leads to the summit whence a
.294 I'HE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
delightful view is obtained. Below extends the
little city of Cholula, whose outlying plazas blend
into waving fields of wheat and Indian corn.
Puebla rises in the distance, and the four great
peaks reach skyward in their silent grandeur. The
silvery sheen of the risen moon is mingling its
light with the afterglow of twilight, still refledted
in slow-fading tints from the rose-touched mount-
ain-tops, as we enter again the city of Puebla, and
the scene is one of transcendent beauty.
With another day we return to the main line
and proceed on our journey to the hot lands
along the coast. We are still on the elevated
plateau. After passing Esperanza the road begins
its marvelous descent, dropping down with a ra-
pidity that almost frightens one. As we pass El
Boca del Monte we enter a narrow gorge that
opens suddenly upon an elevated trestle-bridge
bearing the dramatic name El Balcon del Diabolo.
From its airy height we gaze down into deep-set
valleys from which arises a wilderness of rugged
mountains. A tumultuous stream plunges over a
rocky precipice, struggles through a narrow defile,
and then by a succession of foam-tossing falls is
lost in gloomy depths a thousand feet below.
Tiers on tiers of hills rise to meet us, yielding
access as we descend in our winding, web-like way,
clinging to mountain slopes, cutting through out-
reaching spurs, and spanning many a yawning
chasm. Ramparts of giant hills clad with rliodo-
^IERRAS CAtiENTfES. 295
dendrons and clinging ivy suddenly seem to bar
all farther progress ; then as suddenly break be-
fore us into scarred ravines and smiling valleys
watered by a diamond-shower of cry^stal water half
hidden amidst the green. Hills unseen before
arise about us with opening vistas of rare love-
liness, stretching away to distant mountain ranges.
Down, ever down we go, our course being diredled
by one of the powerful double-headed engines in
use on this road, and by reversing the steam-power
too great precipitation is prevented. Two of these
mighty iron-horses are employed to drag the trains
up the steep slopes and heavy grades of the return
trip from coast to Capital. Every climatic zone is
measured in our descent. At Bota we leave the
peach-trees in bloom ; as we circle down the mount-
ain walls of Maltrata the foliage of the tropics be-
gins to mingle brilliantly with that of the tierra
te7npiada. The flaming hibiscus flowers amidst
the ca6lus and yucca. Rare orchids droop airily
from rugged branches and every-where the lap of
nature is heaped with flowers and fertile vegeta-
tion. Oranges, limes, pomegranates, pine-apples,
bananas and other tropical fruits, fresh picked, are
offered for sale by the natives at the pi(5luresque
station of Maltrata. The vegetable world becomes
luxuriant and rank as we advance. The mount-
ains seem to grow about us, and great precipices,
awhile back yawning at our feet, now loom above
us as lofty peaks. On we sweep,
296 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
And in tlie twinkling of an eye
We brush the silvered rims of clouds,
And with them float amid the sky.
From every point the stately form of Orizaba com-
mands each changing view, and as we come nearer
and are lowered to the level of her base this
queenly mountain raises her proud head into the
skies, crowned in dazzling splendor, in still greater
beauty and majesty. We see here a historic point
where a handful of French veterans once so com-
manded the mountain-pass as to defeat a whole
Mexican army. We curve swittly downward to
the handsome city of Orizaba surrotmded by a
rich little valley that is closely shut in from the
outer world by high-rising mountains. Below this
plain we cross a broad valley well watered and
clothed with verdure, and then we enter a great
barranca some nine hundred feet deep. A high
bridge spans the chasm ninety feet above the Met-
lac river, along whose borders far below we see
fields of corn and sugar-cane waving in the wel-
come breeze. Our track doubles iipon itself, twists
about among the mountains and darts in and out
of gloomy tunnels, emerging suddenly from one of
these under-ground passage-ways where a subter-
ranean stream makes a fierce headlong plunge into
the world, forming a foaming cataradl down the
mountain-side. Soon we are at Cordova, and in
the midst of tropical heat and tropical vegetation.
The natives require but frail habitations in
TIERRAS CALIENTES. 297
this ever-summer climate, and their huts are built
of reeds and cane-stalks supported by a rude frame-
work, with thatched roofs generally cone-shaped,
the better to shed the water, rain being here far
more plentiful than on the uplands. Great coffee
plantations spread their luxuriant growths, acres
upon acres in the distance. The forests are tan-
gles of tropical plants, and vines, and flowers, and
shrubs, and trees, overshadowed by the stately
palm. There is a wealth of bloom and fragrance
on hill and dale, mountain-side, and deep-hung
valley, growing more distindlively tropical as we
drop down through the last foot-hills to the very
coast. Shadows are falling athwart the way as we
pass through a beautiful gorge embowered in fra-
grant green, and glints of light and shade play lov-
ingly over the exquisite falls of the Atoyac, fret-
ting a rugged way through a wild ravine beside
our track. A few hours later the absolute sea-level
is reached and we are safe at Vera Cruz.
As we rattle over the streets toward the hotel we
come upon the brilliantly lighted plaza, that pleas-
ant chara(5leristic of Mexican towns, and we linger
to enjoy the gay scene. A band is discoursing
sweet music, and society, in all grades, is disport-
ing itself among the clustering shrubs, and flowers,
and over-hanging trees. The air is balmy and
fresh with a delightful breeze wafted in from the
sea, and the night seems born of enjoyment. After
studying the varying company and the graceful,
298 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
impressive lines of the Cathedral, whose stately
dome and spires majestically command the square
as if with conscious power of their higher mission,
we seek a view of the Gulf, of which we have
caught but dim glimpses down the sea-reaching
streets. Beautiful indeed is the vast expanse of
water that stretches away to the far horizon, and
the waves roll shoreward, glimmering like molten
silver in the pure light of the full moon.
Vera Cruz has few attractions to hold the tour-
ist who has already grown accustomed to the
Spanish foreignness of the country. The streets
are shabbily pi6luresque, but flat and uninterest-
ing, except for the abundance of flowers and foli-
age in plazas and courts, and the dreamy swaying
of the cocoa-palm, indigenous to the lowlands along
the coast.
The chief charm of the trip was a sail out on
the waters of the Gulf. The day was smiling, the
skies as blue as those of the far-famed Italy; nor
was there any sign of a norther, although the roll-
ing swell of the sea gave unmistakable evidence of
a storm that had spent its fury, but a few days
past, and the breeze was still running high enough
to give us a delightfully stiff sail. The city shows
at its best from the port, and its towers and tile-
mounted domes are bathed in the splendor of the
setting sun as we enter the harbor, and the win-
dows catching the dying light seem all aflame.
Jalapa is the next point on our journey, and
TIERRAS CALIENTES. 299
enjoys the novel distinction of being reached by a
tramway-ride of nearly sixty miles, leading from
Paso del San Juan, sixteen miles by railroad out
of Vera Cruz. The start is made at early morning,
" When the magic of da3light awakes
A new wonder each minute, as slowly it breaks ;
Hills, cupolas, fountains, called forth every one
Out of darkness, as if but just born of the Sun."
It is a long day's ride and tedious, but so full of
novel sights that weariness is forgotten except
where the toilsome mules drag us so slowly up the
long slopes as to appear scarcely to move at all,
and where the landscape about has for a time
become barren and drear. But, anon, we have
glimpses of richly cultivated plantations that are
dreams of paradise, and again the vine-clad walls
of a hacienda stand guard over a tangled glade of
orange and banana trees. This old road was the
Spanish highway to the capital before the days of
railroads. Over this road General Scott marched
his army to the City of Mexico, passing on the
way the proud palace and prosperous ranch of
Santa Anna. Here is the historic spot, but the
magnificent buildings of the once great leader are
now fallen to ruin and overrun with ca(5li.
During the middle of the day it is as oppressive-
ly hot and dusty as Fair-time in July with us; and
we realize fully that we are in the tierras calientes.
As we come into higher regions the air is cooler
and the views are finer and more varied. The
300 THE IvAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
road is almost constantly climbing, for Jalapa lies
among the hills some four thousand feet above the
sea ; but, at last, with the shades and growing chill
of evening we have arrived.
So much are these Spanish-Mexican towns
alike, with their lovely plazas, their cathedrals,
and square-built houses, showing glimpses of
flower-embowered courts where birds sing and
fountains play, that it is hard to find features
that are distindlive. About Jalapa there is charm-
ing mountain scenery, and Orizaba is again our
worshiped queen. The industry of the country
round about is chiefly coffee-raising, and our trip
to a coffee plantation was full of enjoyment and
interest. The coffee-trees have a clustering, lux-
uriant appearance, and, when laden with the
bunches of ripe-red berries, are extremely orna-
mental as well as profitable. Heat, moisture and
shade are necessary for success in coffee-growing.
Young trees are set out from cuttings, and between
the rows banana trees are planted in order to fur-
nish the requisite amount of shade. At five or six
years the coffee-tree begins to bear and yield good
profits. When ripe the berries are stripped from
the stem and placed in trays or on mats to dry,
after which the bean is separated from the pod
by machinery. Another process is gone through
with to remove the thin membrane enclosing the
bean, and then the coffee is ready for the market,
although age is necessary to develop a good aroma.
tierras cauentes. 301
Large quantities of this important article of food,
rivaling the Mocha in excellence, are raised in
the Republic, and there is a growing foreign de-
mand for the delicious berry of INIexican flavor.
As the aroma of coffee is largely dependent upon
the proper assorting and curing of the beans, a
fadl that the natives do not fully appreciate, more
care should be given to this branch of the busi-
ness. Chocolate and cocoa, or cacao^ are largely
manufadtured here and form very important in-
dustries of the country ; and enormous amounts
of sugar are expressed from the sugar-cane grow-
ing in this climate, without cultivation, the year
round. Great groves of orange trees lie on every
hand, in these tropical and semi-tropical regions,
the rich green of their wax-like leaves heightened
by spheres of luscious, golden fruit hanging from
heavy-laden branches. The banana thickets are
rich-bearing and every-where abound, and numer-
ous other tropical trees show either the promising
blossom or the tempting fruit.
" And what a wilderness of flowers !
It seems as though from all the bowers
And fairest fields of all the year,
The mingled spoil were scattered here."
It were the poetry of living to be daily sur-
rounded with such scenes of loveliness and plenty,
but hardly has the delicious existence stolen into
our souls ere the prosaic a(5livity of American life
asserts itself and bids us return.
302 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZtJMAS.
CHAPTER XXV.
HOMEWARD BOUND.
/^UR second stay in the City of Mexico is only
^-^ long enough for a brief and final farewell to
the fair, ancient capital. As our carriage leaves
the hotel a peon, catching sight of our baggage,
falls into a rapid, swinging gait at our side. It is
a long distance to the station and our horses are
making good time, but the man keeps pace with
them the whole way, and as we arrive at the sta-
tion he stands at the door, with heaving breast, to
ask permission to carry our luggage into the bag-
gage-room. For this service he asks the insignifi-
cant sum of one real. The drivers never leave
their horses for such purposes, and therefore these
poor fellows are sure of their modest fees.
As the train sweeps out of the city in the
bright afternoon we gaze regretfully upon the re-
ceding domes and towers until they blend with the
dim horizon, and we watch the verdant Vale of
Anahuac until encircling mountain-walls obstruct
the scene. As we rise to a higher level a last clear
view is had of the city, a last glimpse is caught a
little later of the shining crest of the Woman in
HOMEWARD BOUND. 303
White, and then Mexico is but a dream of the past.
Yet this is not a farewell to this interesting coun-
try, for in the store-houses of our memories are de-
posited many treasures from the realms of the
Montezumas that not even a Cortes can wrest from
our grasp.
This our last trip across the Republic of Mex-
ico is by the Mexican National, whose connedling
links from Capital to border have but lately been
forged. The road climbs out of the plateau-vale
by the western mountain rim, slowly ascending
the steep barriers by sweeping curves, and deep
cuts, and heavy grades. Fold on fold the serried
summits enclose our serpentine way, and the mar-
velous prospe6l changes face with each moment of
our advance, now dimpling into deepening valleys,
now frowning into grim ravines, again weeping
mountain torrents over the cadli-g^rown craes.
Below our still-ascending track we see villasfes
close-pressed between their mountain ridges, and
the rocky sides are here and there dotted with hab-
itations seemingly hung from their airy heights as
the nests of the oriole are swung from the branches
of a tree. Adjoining many of the houses we notice
towers, some ten feet high, used for storing corn,
of which the valleys yield but moderate crops.
At Cima, the summit, we are nearly ten thou-
sand feet above the sea, the highest point on the
road and the highest railway station in the Re-
public. On one side of the summit the Rio Hondo
304 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
flows into the Valley of Mexico, while on the other
the Rio Lerma pours its waters into Lake Chap-
ala. Spruces and pines mingle with the cadli, and
the grandeur of the scenery strongly resembles
that of the Rockies. Soon we begin to descend
gradually into grassy valleys watered by the Rio
Lerma. A new mountain peak, the Nevada de
Toluca, more than fifteen thousand feet high, rises
from a point twenty miles away to greet us, its
majestic head glowing under the rays of the set-
ting sun as though crowned with burnished gold.
Twilight still lingers as we pass through Ja-
lapa, but before we have reached the broad valley
of Toluca night has fallen, and many miles of in-
teresting scenery must be passed in the darkness.
Breakfast is taken at San Luis Potosi, now rap-
idly becoming a stirring railroad town. North-
ward the grades are easy across the plateau, and
not until night has come again are the mountains
neared. Saltillo is passed, as also the historic
point of Buena Vista, and at midnight we alight at
Monterey. Like Guadalajara, and many other
cities still flourishing in Mexico, Monterey was
founded in the early days of Spanish dominion,
and no spot more beautiful could have been found
in the land for the building of a city. Having
been the first place closely connedled by railroad
with the sister cities of the United States, Mon-
terey has become markedly Americanized, more,
however, because of the impetus given by the in-
HOMEWARD BOUND. 305
coming American population than by any change
in the business methods of the native inhabitants
themselves. During three full centuries the city
slowly grew and shaped itself, always in accord
with the plans of its early founders ; and although
modern progress may engraft its foreign fruit upon
the old branches, hardly can centuries of change
unform the ancient tree.
Monterey is the capital of the fertile state of
Nuevo Leon, and the metropolis of northern Mex-
ico. Long before the shriek of the locomotive
sounded in the astonished ears of its old inhabit-
ants it was a receiving and distributing point for
an extensive country; and its improved facilities
for reaching the coast and border have greatly in-
creased its importance as a domestic and foreign
market. In the days when Texas was still a part
of New Spain a rough and dangerous road, infested
by swarms of wild Indians and bandits, wound
among the mountains and across the plains to the
city of San Antonio; and over the same old road
to-day wind the bands of steel that connecSl these
'same cities, still kindred, although of two different
Republics.
From the location of Monterey, at the head of
the valley where the mountains converge until
only a narrow pass remains, winding through the
gorges to Saltillo and the interior cities beyond, it
is the true gate-way of the rugged Sierra ]\Iadre.
The outlook from the city is exceedingly beautiful.
3o6 THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
Ofif to the north the broad plain stretches into
purple distance, but the other sides of the town
are closely hemmed in by the spurs of the mount-
ains rising on the one hand into a bold peak
named from its unique form the Cerro de la Silla,
the saddle-mountain, and upon the other hand into
the equally well-named Cerro de la Mitra, from its
resemblance to a bishop's mitre.
Among the many points of interest in and
about this beautiful city may be mentioned the
Bishop's Palace, standing high upon a hill over-
looking the town, and awakening in us a glow of
patriotic pride when the story is recalled of the
gallant and successful fight made up its steep
slopes by the American soldiers against superior
numbers during the struggle for the capture of
Monterey. The hill, then wrapped in the smoke
of battle, now stands out in the clear sky in the full
enjoyment of peace, only a few demolished earth-
works remaining to tell the tale of the conflidl.
The Plaza de Zaragoza deserves mention, lying
in the heart of the city and, as usual, faced by the
ever-present Cathedral, and the emporiums of busi-
ness and by governmental buildings. The market
is a place of exceeding interest and of utmost
confusion, where all sorts of merchandise are
bought and sold.
Noticeable among the few palatial residences
of the city is the magnificent home of Patrucio
Milmo, son-in-law of the unfortunate Miramon,
HOMEWARD BOUND. 307
whose estates lie inherited. The grand hacienda
of Trevino lies near and is a monument of political
as well as agricultural interest. Trevino, Gon-
zales and Diaz were the three great leaders of the
last revolution, whereby the Republic was finally-
established. It was arranged among these three
that Diaz should first become President, to be fol-
lowed by Gonzales, and then by Treviilo. The
first two occupied the executive chair as agreed
upon ; but before the time came for Trevino to be-
come President he had married an American, the
daughter of General Ord. This circumstance, it
was held, would be liable to stir up jealousies
among the people, should he attempt to hold the
reins of government. Diaz having his own inter-
ests in view, as well as those of the country, made
an arrangement by which he was given the office
for a second term, while Trevino was appointed
General in Chief of the Army of North-western
Mexico. Common report says that he also re-
ceived the princely tradl of land that constitutes
his hacienda as an additional consideration for his
submission, and that he made good use of the sol-
diers under him in the clearing and improving of
his estate. At that time the Constitution of Mex-
ico debarred the President from succeeding himself
in office; but Diaz, before the close of his second
term, had this clause repealed, and in consequence
he is now occupying the Presidential chair for the
third time. Undoubtedly he is the ablest and
308 THE LAND OP THE MONTEZUMAS.
strongest statesman of the Republic, and the pros-
perity of the country under his rule is conclusive
proof of his especial fitness to wield the power he
has so long held.
At midnight the express carried us out of the
city of Monterey, the last abiding-place of our de-
lightful pilgrimage though the Land of the Mon-
tezumas. When we were awakened in the morn-
ing we were nearing the border-line, and soon we
again crossed the Rio Grande into our own, our
native land. The enthusiasm of our greeting to
the beloved Stars and Stripes, the most beautiful
flag on earth, waving to us a cheery welcome, was
somewhat tempered by the prompt appearance of
the custom-house officers to examine the baggage ;
but this ordeal was soon pleasantly over, and with-
out disturbing any of the few precious relics we
had gathered here and there as souvenirs of the
trip.
The homeward journey is to be by a round-
about course, for the slopes of the Pacific are
beckoning us westward, and by the first train from
Laredo we travel on to El Paso again, then across
the hot desert of southern Arizona and into Cali-
fornia. At Riverside we halt for a brief rest, and
are enchanted into making a long stay in this
charming place. After the almost continuous
traveling for months among foreign people, we
seem to have come upon an earthly paradise, and
after long and weary wanderings have entered in
HOMEWARD BOUND. 309
our own country, a land flowing with milk and
honey. The valley in which this little town nest-
les is some ninety miles long by fifty wide, en-
circled by a rim of low mountain-tops lightly
wrapped in snow during the winter season. In
the valley frost seldom touches, but it is brown
and arid except where irrigation redeems the land.
Even Riverside itself was a desert until about
twenty years ago, when the place was settled and
irrigating ditches established, and the desert rap-
idly blossomed as the rose. The streets are lined
with shade-trees that meet in arch-ways overhead.
Flowering plants grow and bloom the year round.
Rose-vines starry with buds and blossoms clamber
to the roofs. Stately cypress or low evergreen
hedges take the place of fences, and out the long
drive-way of aristocratic Magnolia Avenue are
beautiful magnolia trees and fan-palms ; while in
the centre of the drive wave the feathery branches
of a continuous line of exquisite pepper-trees. But
the charm of Riverside is her orange groves.
Every house is surrounded by its acres of orange
trees ; and never have we seen such perfe(5l trees.
They are comparatively young, but of thrifty
growth. The leaves are a rich, waxy green, with-
out a flaw, and the branches are so laden with
clusters of the golden fruit that but for props and
braces they would be dragged to the earth or
broken down. The budded fruit is generally pre-
ferred here and is grafted to the wild-orange stock.
3IO THE LAND OF THE MONTEZUMAS.
The Washington Navel is the favorite early va-
riety, while the Mediterranean Sweets are the
choice fruit for May and June. Lemons, olives,
raisins, grapes and all manner of deciduous fruits
are grown here, although the cultivation of oranges
and grapes are the most profitable industries,
Los Angeles is the metropolis of Southern Cali-
fornia and is rapidly growing into a great city.
The suburban town of Pasadena is far more pi(fl-
uresq^ue. The drive thence^ to the beautiful San
Madre Villa we greatly enjoyed, particularly the
trip through two of the largest and finest ranches
of the West, as well as the visit to Sunny Slope
Grapery and Winery, where the finest grapes in
the country are grown and pressed into a variety
of California wines, whose brands are famous the
country over.
The trip to San Diego gave us some bits of
charming scenery. Many of the hill-sides are
masses of the golden blossoms of the wild mustard,
and herein revel the honey-bees of the numerous
bee-ranches of this se6lion of the state. The
just fame of California honey makes this an inter-
esting fa6l. San Diego did not enthuse us very
much, although on every hand we heard predic-
tions of its great future; but a day spent in yacht-
ing on the blue-rolling waves of the Pacific was a
happy life-dream full-realized. What travel-loving
American does not long to embrace both oceans of
his beloved country in pleasant memories?
HOMEWARD BOUND. 3II
The noble city of San Francisco, with her mas-
sive buildings, her thrift, her parks, and her sub-
urban towns, clustering about the Bay, surpassed
our highest expedlations in spite of the enthu-
siastic descriptions we had often received of the
beautiful City of the Golden Gate. Surely Califor-
nians are none too proud of their fair metropolis.
Nevertheless, when her most noted places of in-
terest have been visited, and when the spring is
ripening into summer, we joyfully turn our faces
eastward and cross the curious country of north-
ern Arizona, traverse the great western plains,
and then home.
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