W 00 UN rmotrs nf a OoKv\ t. . BY HIS DAUGHTER MRS. KATIE E. BL.OOD PARKERSBURG, W. TA. OF THE UNIVERSITY OF Associated Publishers of American Records New Haven, Conn. 1907 UNIVERSITY OF ttyt plains tn tlj? $tartftr ARCH 15, 1849. Our final arrangements were made yesterday, and all were ready this morning to start on our long trip to California. Our fam- ilies and friends watch us from the Court House, as we wend our way down the hill towards the river, and at the last bend we wave our last adieu to our loved ones. The day is rather cold with threatening clouds, and with heavy hearts and feverish hopes, we ride on. Our party is small, but many will join on our way and at Independence, hundreds will be on the trail. Our company consists of Thomas S. Lowry, Jarius Palmer, John Rob- erts, James Reynolds and Henry A. Wood. I ride my bay horse, two others ride, and two drive in wag- gons, which carry provisions and clothes, and such things as we need. We travelled sixteen miles to Weaver on French Broad River, arriving in a very hard rain, and it was with difficulty that arrangements were made for the night. Roberts and myself slept in one waggon while the rest were kindly furnished with a comfortable bed in the house. This evening I was initiated into the mys- teries of washing dishes. I fancied I did the thing up "brown." March i6th. The next day the rain stopped and we left camp and travelled as far as Bartlett's, twenty- three miles, when the waggon broke down and had to be repaired. W'ood and I walked over the bridge to the Warm Springs and I was surprised to find the water quite warm. The Warm Springs are situated in a healthy and romantic valley of the French Broad River, and are owned by Thos. Patton, Esq., who has fitted up an extensive establishment for the accommodation of invalids, who are generally restored to their wanted health by the medicinal waters. The next day we left Bartlett's at seven o'clock and drove to McMa- honey over very bad roads. The day was very wet and we were put to our wit's end in setting our tent and cook- ing supper in the rain. Reynolds was taken quite sick but soon recovered. The falling of the rain was dreary, and our thoughts wander back to those sitting around the home fire. Drove twenty-three miles today. March 1 8th, Sunday. Early this morning, we broke camp and drove to Miller's. The roads were very muddy and fatigued our horses more so this day than any preceding one. Passed through a fine country, some highly cultivated. Crossed French Broad River for the last time at Hayes Ferry. Drove twenty-three miles. The next day, we drove all day, arriving bv night at Dr. Ramsey's at the Junction of French Broad and Holsten Rivers, where they form the Tennessee. We were kindly fur- nished with rooms by the Doctor and treated with the greatest kindness. The roads are muddy and with diffi- culty did we drive twenty-four miles Late Tuesday morning we broke camp, cooking breakfast being in- trusted to the most skillful, as the rain caused the fire to smoke. The coffee was good, but the bread was poor. The oven will not heat well and put us once more to our wit's end, but we arrived in Knoxville at night. We intend to remain until some ar- rangement can be effected to take the Company by water. I sold my horse to Col. John Davis for Forty-four Dollars in gold and made mv arrange- ments to go by water in a flat boat to St. Louis, while the Company are de- termined to go by steamboat. All day Wednesday we remained in Knoxville endeavoring to sell the waggon and horses, finally succeed- ing in disposing of Roberts' horse, the Company remaining in the house fid- dling away the time. On Thursday we divided in shares our equipment, my share being a horse, bridle and saddle, which I immediately sold for Fifty Dollars. I then went on board nf a <0tti in of boat, "Sam Martin." I formed a mess with Haines, Mason and Atkin- son, of Jonesboro, East Tennessee. There are other young men on board bound for California. One Hundred and Nine miles from home. March 23rd. Friday. Our boat has been running down stream at the rate of fifteen miles an hour. The country is beautiful, not as level as I had anticipated, only small flat pieces of land along the shore. The boat is quite crowded, chiefly men with the gold fever. Arrived in Chattanooga early Sat- urday morning and went on shore in hopes of seeing Thomas Durin, but was disappointed. While the steamer is loading, many passengers walk in- to town to stretch their legs and are hurried back by the steamer's whistle, signalling her intention to leave the wharf. We made a fine run but "Cassindra" outstripped us. On Sunday morning we arrived at Whitesburg, and I was agreeably sur- prised to find my friend, Thomas Durin where he was preparing to leave for home. With much regret, I bade him farewell and I could not but shed a tear as he was the last of the family I would see. How many thousands of miles I shall travel be- fore seeing those clear faces again. We reached Decatur having made a steady run of fifteen miles an hour. We were there compelled to take cars on railroad drawn by horses. Some Companies have their horses on board, so they go with them. After much dickering and confusion, we leave Decatur and travel at the rate of six miles an hour. The railroad is very slow after the drifting of the steamboat. We arrived at Tuscum- bia, a beautiful place. It has mam- advantages of making a large busi- ness city. We put up for the night at the Franklin House. The Land- lord is accommodating. We spend Tuesday in Tuscumbia. awaiting the ai rival of a boat to carry us to the mouth of Tennessee River. The boat does not come until three o'clock Wednesday. On Thursday, we left on the steamboat. "Courtland," a beautiful boat equal in size and ac- commodation to any eastern boat. The officers are very gentlemanly, and the fare is as good as any I ever knew on board a boat. The landing is one of the most picturesque places I ever saw and the immense ware- house is not surpassed by anything in the world. It is built on the point of hill and is a very durable building. I lost Ten Dollars in gold this even- ing. March 3Oth. Friday. Made but little distance at first, owing to the great quantity of cotton on board. There was much gambling on board. The country through which we passed was very fine, but unimproved. The rich river bottoms are much neg- lected, perhaps because of their lia- bility to overflow, the banks being quite low. Saturday, we gently sail on. March went out very pleasantly in- deed. With but four exceptions we have had fine weather to travel in. The boat took in two hundred tons of pig metal from the furnace of Stackal. I walked about two miles to the place, and I was surprised to find the richest kind of fossil ore, and quite convenient. This makes a very fine metal. Sunday, April ist. A beautiful day but a little cold, fires being quite comfortable. We were running at the rate of fifteen miles an hour, while the water was nearly over the guard. Reaching Paducah as a boat from Cincinnati was coming in, I immedi- ately, on her landing, engaged pas- sage for all of our men, Ne Plus Ultra, at $3.50 to St. Louis. There are nearly one hundred and fifty per- sons from Boston on board, who are bound for California. The next morning we awoke to find ourselves at the wharf in St Louis. After dressing and break- fasting, I set out with Stover and Harris to find lodgings, which \\v in getting after a great to Ity Jlariftr length of time, at the United States Hotel, a very good house. In the afternoon, we visited the United States Arsenal and bought knives and carbines for our journey. We need these to protect ourselves and for pro- curing food. In the evening we went to the circus, and saw Dan Rice pre- form the clown in a very creditable manner. The enclosure was crowd- ed, and seemed the resort for those awaiting the making up of parties to go West. Wednesday was a wet day, raining very hard. I remained in my room and wrote letters and otherwise busied myself with mending in prep- aration for a long journey, it being quite restful. On Thursday, Harris & self start- ed out and made our purchases of equipment, but did not finish. To- morrow, we must try again. In the afternoon, we went out to the finest portion of the city, and were much disappointed in finding everything in a filthy condition. No care is taken of streets or buildings. Everyone is on a run, and scarcely turns around to observe a fine building. Much fever is exhibited, and interest in the emigrants who purchase fire arms, etc., I was delighted on Friday, when Mason very unexpectedly dropped in- to our rooms having arrived the night before at midnight. I had my daguerreotype taken to put in a gold locket to send home to my sister Elizabeth. On Saturday, we bought the rest of the articles needed for the journey. I have packed them in leather cases, tying the ends together, and we rolled the blankets in three bundles. We expect to cook out doors and sleep in waggons. I have a swinging bed and hope to be comfortable at night. We form mess with Dr. Stone and W T m. Taylor on equal shares. Taylor will come up the river in a few days, and soon our travels will commence in real earnest,, as we have arranged our watches. All is work and ex- citement and proving ourselves men, leaving family and friends to go amongst the wilds. Who can tell which or how many will fall by dis- ease, an Indian arrow or the several dangers that will beset our path, but to the West we have set our faces, and to the West we go. We have agreed with the clerk of boat "Em- bassy" to carry us to Independence for Seven Dollars, each. Sunday, April 8th. I went to church and heard the Rev. Mr. Lyon preach at the Westminster Church, and enjoyed it very much. He is a very able minister. In the afternoon, we walked out to the camp of Bun- combe (N. C.) boys, and on to the Camp Spring (Tennessee), where we found many people collected to have a dance. The band was playing and all was bright and gay. We watched them dance one waltz and then left the wretched place. St. Louis is a wicked place, there appears to be no control over any young man who whoops and halloas on the streets on Sunday to his heart's content. St. Louis is increasing rapidly in popula- tion and bad morals. Monday was wet but we went on board steamboat bound for St. Jos- eph. The boat is new but badly man- aged, the crew very unaccommodat- ing, and there is much grumbling amongst the passengers. It was with difficulty that our luggage was put on board in the hard rain. Left St. Louis about sunset and passed up the river about twenty miles where we land to await day- light, when we again go slowly up the river. The boat is crowded with emigrants, which makes it very unpleasant. All are looking into the future, and many are thinking of the great hardships to be endured to- gether. The next morning, Tuesday, many complain of sickness and giddiness. Cholera has broken out and has cauesd great excitement. There were two cases, one being very ill, and on Thursday, one young man of the Vir- ginia Company died. So full of nf a in bright hopes never to be realized, but buried. At dark, we stopped at a wood yard to bury the dead. A beau- tiful green spot high on the hill be- tween two small budding trees, was selected to bury the poor fellow. Amongst strangers he died, and in a strange country we buried him. Quite a gloom was cast over us as the funeral services of the Episcopal Church were read. As we hear the impressive words, greatly are we im- pressed. Friday morning, we passed Jeffer- son City, the capital of Missouri. It has not a thriving appearance, al- though a very westerly town. Neither is it as large as I anticipated. The Capitol stands on an eminence near the river's edge and is a very fine building. Being built of stone with single palisades, it has more the ap- pearance of strength and durability, rather than beauty. We also passed Boonville, the intermediate point of the land route to Independence. The sick seem better and the ex- citement and dread of cholera is sub- siding. The nights are cool, and on Friday night it was very cold. In the morn- ing, all on board were complaining of bad colds. In the midst of com- plaints, arose cries of alarm of fire. The stove which was red hot and heating to its utmost, fell over, and the men with great presence of mind threw water and wet blankets on it and thus extinguished the fire and saved the boat. I am not very well. On Saturday afternoon, the piston of the engine broke, which caused a delay for repairs of three hours. Sunday, April i5th. Just one month since I left home, and how many things have I seen, how many strange faces, and how my thoughts wander back to home and all that the word means so much that is dear. Alas ! my face is turned to the West, and Fate, sad Fate pushes me along, almost imperceptibly, to wealth or an untimely death among strangers, and perhaps an inveterate foe in the per- son of an Indian. How thankful should we be that Providence has allowed us to live this long. An un- profitable life it has been, but we can turn to His holy word and find peace for the troubled soul. Many passen- gers forget the beautiful Sabbath and are drinking with noise as if they were not accountable beings. We passed a beautiful prairie this morn- ing, which was dotted here and there with a little white shanty, the home of a western pioneer. On Monday, we went at a good rate and passed a small town named Brownsville. Tuesday, we arrived at Independence, landing in the morn- ing, and we were the whole day in getting out our goods, and making camp on the brink of the river. Cook- ing supper seemed quite a difficult matter and night found us very tired. I spent a very uncomfortable night, but one watch was kept as thieves are the only expected visitors. On Wednesday, we moved our camp one-half a mile beyond town by the Santa Fe road. Our waggons looked very trim and the mules in fine condition. My horse has been feeling fine for the long rest. I went into Independence in the afternoon and found it a great place of business. It is the trading-place of the Mexi- cans and hunters, who meet here every Spring and exchange their wares, and purchase goods. The town is full of waggon shops and from these is done a great business, and I am told much money is made. The town has a population of fifteen hundred people. Independence is to be our starting point and we will spend a week in preparing to make our journey. We formed our com- pany and framed our Constitution. Stone, Taylor. Harris and myself agreed to furnish Atkinson with an outfit. We bought eight mules at Sixty Dollars each and were much pleased with our bargain. The mules were broke to harness every day, affording us much amusement as on- lookers. They are very stubborn Arrn00 tij? to it}? farifir and it seems a question which two would pull together. Finally they mate, but not so the four. Each waggon is drawn b'y four mules. The forward ones kick the back couple and cause great commotion. This delay is annoying. The waggons have been overhauled and flour bought and packed. We await here until Wednesday. May 2nd. All was in readiness to start. I rode my horse most of the day, but took my turn at the four-in- hand late in the afternoon, driving six miles to Rice's where corn was bought. It is a most beautiful and fertile country. For miles around as far as the eye can reach over the plains, is a waving mass of green, dot- ted here and there with ploughed fields and cottages, a beautiful sight for man to behold. We remained in our comfortable camp all day Thursday, doing little jobs and quite enjoying the camp life. We take turns in caring for the stock and cooking, and at night each unroll their blankets, the waggons are placed on each side of the fire, and the mules are tied together, three feet apart. Only one man keeps a four-hour watch during the night. We expected to start on Friday, but awoke to find our camp almost deluged in water by the night's rain. The rain continued and rendered the cooking of breakfast and duties most difficult and disagreeable. We settled with the Treasurer, and found that each man's share is $186.66, the whole outfit costing $1 1 20.00. On Saturday, I went with Taylor to town and bought several things. Received several letters, one from James Potter, of Penna. I became very unwell, caused from eating a very hearty dinner in town. The premonitory symptoms of cholera made their appearance, so Dr. Stone gave me a great quantity of lauda- num, but without good results. I felt better on Monday, but much alarmed, as there have been six deaths in surrounding camps from cholera. The dread disease has surely taken a lodgment, and all thoughts are turned to checking it in camps. The next day I felt better, so we broke camp and drove three miles, where we waited until Taylor drove up with the other waggons. I am unable to do anything, but the Doc- tor thinks I will get well with due care, but I feel very weak. When Taylor came, we drove three miles to a beautiful spring where we -set camp, and we remained until all was ready to start. These many de- lays are annoying. On Friday, May loth, we struck camp and drove three miles to Little Blue, where we again sat down to wait until Saturday for Means and Wilson. I rode about two miles. I bought a Comanche pony for $60.00 in order that one might ride her. On Saturday, Taylor and Harris went to Independence in the morning to purchase articles and get our let- ters, as this was the last chance of receiving any until we reach the mine. I sent by Taylor many letters, and he returned in the evening with a num- ber from home. The Buncome Co., the Carson Co. and the Wilson Co. passed this even- ing, and we followed them in the early morning. Sunday, May I2th. We rose very early this morning and found Taylor very sick. We regret breaking camp and following train, while Taylor is in this condition. Reynolds, of Bun- combe was also taken ill with cholera, and we fear he is very ill. Tuesday, May I4th. We made an early start in a very heavy rainstorm, and when out a mile, the tongue of my waggon was broken through by the stubbornest of the mules, and we were compelled to unhitch and make a new tongue, but caught up with the camp at night. Taylor is very ill with the cholera. I began to feel very unwell in the evening so Sun- day we remained in camp as so many a in were ill. The Kentucky Company joined us. Wednesday, May i6th we crossed the line of the U. States. We drove 12 miles to a very good camp and were joined by Schaffer of North Carolina. We passed a new made grave of an emigrant. The country is beautiful and green. By Thursday we passed the Pio- neer line but at dinner they passed us. One of the mules got loose and I had a fine ride in catching him. We drove to the forks of the road (one goes to Santa Fe and the other [right] to Oregon). We camped near an Indian hut which had been deserted in consequence of cholera breaking out in emigrant camps near by. We are all feeling better. On Friday I stood guard for the first time, on the last watch, but did not see anything to shoot. Started early, and drove 10 miles to a ford of Bule Creek where we stopped three hours to grass our mules, and then driving several miles where we camped for the night. On Saturday an axle tree of one of the Kentucky waggons broke and we were compelled to stop until noon when we drove i mile, crossing a creek, and here we stopped being de- tained a length of time in assisting each waggon up the steep bank, by taking two front mules and hitching on to mules of waggon behind. We baked bread for Sunday. Although our men are opposed to travelling on the Sabbath, yet, we cannot be left behind the train. At noon we started in a very hard rain and a terrible gale of wind, which wet all of us. Dr. Stone was taken very ill and I was awakened to attend him and I gave him morphine and ippe- cac, and he became much better. On Monday we had a late start and in consequence travelled only 8 miles. Finding water in the broad plain where we stopped until eight o'clock having had a hard rain and later going a few miles before mak- ing camp for the night. I had felt very sick but was better at noon. The next day we drove 10 miles to the crossing of the Kansas River, where we were compelled to camp in order to carry the whole train over in one day and be together. On Wednesday we ferried the Kan- sas River, (called by the Indians,. Kan) in three hours. I swam my mule and led two others rendering it very unsafe. Camped 2 miles from the river passing the line of Turner and Allan. Many Indians came into the camp and wanted to trade for liquor. A man named Faltsby of Xew York came into camp and was taken in by Col. Wilson's mess. Rob- ert and Clayton Reeves with their sister came into camp after we crossed the Kansas. There are but few women travelling. On Thursday the 24th, we left camp at 7 o'clock and drove 18 miles to Manacursa Creek where v j camped. The rain came down in torrents and our tents had 4 inches of water running through them. Wood from Buncombe is ill with symptoms of Cholera. The day and night were the most disagreeable since we left home. On Friday after driving several miles we were detained to dig a road at either side of the bank of a creek. Saturday we broke camp early and drove to a creek which was very high and we were obliged to build a raft to cross, which was not finished until dark. H. A. Wood died of Cholera, tonight, after two days illness. It cast a gloom over the whole Com- pany, as he was liked by all. We buried him and marked his grave. Sunday. 2~th. We were very busy fixing our raft to cross the creek, and only crossed in the evening and camped on the other side one mile from the creek. But early Monday morning we made a start and drove ten miles when one of the Kentucky waggons broke down. Five of our men were ArmBH tlj? plains 10 11}? fforifir taken ill with cholera and everything seems sad ; misfortune hangs over us. Tuesday the sick seemed better and we drove 18 miles without acci- dent, and on Wednesday 20 miles on good roads. Thursday we left camp at an early hour, but were detained a short time as a Kentucky waggon broke down again, and the rain came down in tor- rents, wetting us. Ten men are sick with the cholera, and I was quite un- well, being attacked with diarrhea suddenly. I swallowed 100 drops of laudanum in hopes of a cure. Friday being a very wet day and exceedingly disagreeable we remained in camp to care for our sick, and give the mules a rest. The sick seem bet- ter but very ill. Saturday, June 2nd. Part of our company went out to hunt a bear which had been seen near camp. About noon Morris Jackson of Sid- ney, Ohio, came into camp and told me (after having made himself known) that two of the Bushes, and Dr. Drum, of Shelby Co. Ohio, were with him so I immediately got my horse and rode over to the train, and found them. I had a most delightful afternoon conversing about Sidney and my old friends. We drove , another mile to good grass and water. Early Sunday morning, Capt. Lloyd, Ball and Locket of the Ken- tucky Company left us and returned home. This we regretted, but they decided part on account of so much sickness and the disagreeable weather. We left camp early and drove 12 miles through a very level country, with very little grass and no running water. Near one of the ponds I found iron ore but of an inferior quality. It has the appearance of being magnetite. Drove 8 miles when the axle of the Kentucky waggon broke, and we camped for the night without wood or water. On Monday, the 4th, we left camp at 7 o'clock, and drove about 16 miles to a creek where we stopped to feed the mules. One of our waggons went on and had nothing for the men to eat. Started at 5 o'clock and drove 16 miles to a creek. The land has the appearance of gold formation. On Wednesday we broke camp early and drove about 12 miles to some grass, passing one small wag- gon which had gone ahead yesterday. After a rest we again started, driving 8 miles before we found good water. Camped on the banks of Blue Earth river where we were detained by rain, the showers being the hardest we have experienced. We camped near three ox trains, in one of which was Dr. Walker, the Messrs. Reeves forming part of their Company. On Thursday and Friday we rose very early, driving 15 miles one day, and 12 miles the next. We met about 200 Indians of the Sioux Cheyenne tribe, who were in pursuit of Pawnees that we had met on the preceding day. The Pawnees had stolen some of their mules and horses, and they were gieatly exasperated. We made exchange of blankets and moccasins and saviets with them. I gave a saddle blanket for a Spanish style of saddle. We doubled our guard after their departure fearing a return of our seeming friends. The Country is not very fertile, neither is it well watered or timbered. Some of our Company saw 3 elks this morn- ing. We drove 13 miles in the after- noon to the banks of the Platte. I went out 3 or 4 miles from the road today to kill antelope but did not suc- ceed. I crawled near and just as I was in the act of shooting, it became alarmed and ran directly from me. In crawling I lost my Colt revolving pistol and did not discover the loss until I was 2 miles distant, and the circuitous route which I crawled de- termined me to pursue my course towards the waggons. Saturday, June 9th. We left camp at 6 o'clock and drove on the river bank to Fort Kearney, a distance of 15 miles where we camped near the 0f a d>0l& ISwker in "Sfartg-nm? river and spent the afternoon in writ- ing letters to John Potter, of Potters Mills, Penna., and to Father. Fort Kearney is still in an unfin- ished state, building since last fall. The huts are built of turf and the walls are about 2 feet thick. There is only one frame house, which is used as the Company's store. Col. Bonnville is the Commander of the Fort and Major Chilton next officer in command. On Sunday the loth, in the morn- ing we held a meeting of the Com- pany and determined to rest all power and authority in one man. A com- mittee of three was appointed to draft regulations for the government of the party. They reported, and after read- ing, were adopted, with a few amend- ments. An election was held, Col. Wilson was elected by a vote of 24 to 17- At 7 o'clock we started and drove 15 miles to a fine level place near the banks of the river. We found the wild cactus. The road lay in the be I of the river and it was very nice. On Monday we drove 15 miles to a fine camping ground on the river bank. Saw a large train on the Xorth side of the river, by the Coun- cil Bluff road. Tuesday we made 2 miles on an ex- cellent road there being scarcely a hill all the distance. On the left there was a range of hills extending par- allel with the road, while to our right lay the river in its greatest width, dotted here and there with an island. The river is very high, yet shallow enough for our mules to ford. Wednesday we left camp at a late hour, owing to our disagreeable situ- ation. About dusk a rain and wind storm, a perfect hurricane, came up and came near overturning our tents. The rain was blown in our provision waggon, and wet the flour and sugar. The general feature of the country is about the same except the hills on our left present a rugged and broken appearance. \Ye have overtaken the Pioneer Line, owned by Turner and Allan, of St. Louis, which is progressing slowly. Thursday we started at 6 o'clock, driving 15 miles for grass on the bank of the Platte. We did not follow the road but drove through the grass, it being easier on our mules. The hills to our left were much higher than the day before, and the river nar- rower. For the first time we found wood on this side of the river, princi- pally cotton wood. We passed the Pioneer Line, and if nothing happens will keep in advance. From a person returning to the States we learned there was much suffering, in the trains ahead of us, mules and oxen were giving out, on account of the insufficient grass. We were 430 miles from Independ- ence. We drove 8 miles further to wood and water. Friday we left camp early driving 17 miles before noon, stopping here until 4 o'clock, then started again and drove 7 miles to fine water. Xear the hill on our left we saw the first Buffalo. Chase was immediately given by our men who succeeded in killing one after an hour's chase. While they were dividing that one a large drove came in sight, and the ex- citing sport was again resumed, with more success, killing six of the finest. Then drove the herd toward the train of the Pioneers who killed a number. I was not engaged in this as I loaned my Comanche to Taylor who did splendid, considering he was an inex- perienced hunter. Saturday, i6th. Left camp late and drove 4 miles to the crossing of the Platte River, where we were detained some hours in crossing. The river at this place is about i and l /4 miles wide, and quite shallow with the ex- ception of one or two places, where the water ran into the waggon. It was with the greatest difficulty we crossed, the sand being cut in deep gulleys, causing the mules to sink and fall. The sand filled up the waggon I0urmij Ami*** hubs, thereby locking the wheels. Dr. Stone killed a. fine Buffalo before the waggons crossed and we had deli- cious steak for supper, which was equal to any veal I ever eat. We found three fresh graves of emigrants who died of the cholera. We camped in fine grass about 2 miles from the crossing, making only 6 miles that day. The Messrs. Reeves again over took us and camped near. They are travelling in an ox train and will reach California as soon as if we do riot abandon stopping so often. Sunday, the i/th. This was a most beautiful day and we were delighted to hear we were to remain all day in camp. I devoted the day to reading and sleeping, the latter I enjoyed very much. Some of the Kentucky boys violated the Sabbath by taking a Buffalo hunt. The Buffaloes seemed to be very tame, and are graz- ing quietly on our right when we are willing to let them remain, while a few on our left claim our attention. There are no less than 5 ox trains in view, all resting on the Lord's Day ; five of the Company are busy wash- ing, but that task I was so fortunate to perform yesterday. Monday we made a very early start and crossed the hills from the South to the North fork of the Platte, where we found a fine road near the highest branch from the river. We contin- ued along this for 18 miles stopping at noon for lunch and to feed the mules. We felt very refreshed after a good cup of coffee. Dr. Stone gave chase to a buffalo and came across a very large wolf which I killed . off of my Comanche mare while riding without saddle or bridle, and it was this that induced me to return to the waggon road, but found that they were 3 miles in ad- vance of me. The Valley is quite warm, but no wood or water is to be found. It is shut in by the hills pro- jecting to the banks of the river so we were compelled to take to the hills ains tn % fanftr on which we travel many miles and pitch camp at darkness, by a dirty pond. On Tuesday we drove 8 miles and descended from the high hills to the narrow but fertile valley of the river, travelling 12 miles. Immediately in advance of us about 2 miles we struck the Valley. There were two Indian wigwams which we visited and found three Indians lying dead in one tent, and one in the other. The latter ap- peared to be the chief and was laid out with all his costume. His horse lay dead at the entrance of the wig- wam. No violence was visible and we concluded all had died of cholera, which has been raging with great fatality among the Indian tribes. As we are in the country of the Sioux tribes, it is reasonable to presume that they belonged to that nation. A fearful tempest rose in the even- ing, and we were compelled to pitch camp in a very uncomfortable place. Making 15 miles. On Wednesday morning the camp- ers were thrown into great consterna- tion by the discharging of a gun, as we are in danger of attack from In- dians, but it proved to be from a gun in the hands of a Kentuckian, the load taking effect in the right side of Mr. Bush. At the same place Bush and he had fought on the previous even- ing, about a very trivial matter, and after the fight was over Bush went in- to the tent and kicked his opponent in the mouth as he was resting on the ground. The Kentuckian got up and getting his gun, shot Bush, the ball entered and passed through the ten- don. At a meeting of the Company it was decided that the Kentuckian should be driven out of the Company. Accord- ingly he left after night with two mules. There were a number of In- dians visiting camp, with whom we exchanged many articles, these we needed in our travels. A few ex- changes were made of horses and mules to an advantage. The Indian is very partial to the large American Hfommra of a (Snlft liwlm* in "3Fnrty-nme horse and will give two ponies or mules for one of that kind. On Thursday we left camp and drove 15 miles to good grass and water, for noon feed. The Lime- stone rock on the hills to our left have a most rugged appearance, and the sand is deeper. After travelling four miles, we left the river and ascended a very steep hill, on which w r e travelled three miles, when we descended into a deep ravine where there were some fine springs, and very good Buffalo grass for the mules. The beautiful shade and the refreshing air in this picturesque place, inspired one and all with a de- sire to pitch tent for the night. A wish which was gratified by the ne- cessity of waiting on Capt. Posey's mess, who had broken an axle wheel in the act of entering the ravine. The Bushes and Jackson, of Ohio, are just in our advance to-night. Friday, we did not affect so early a start as on the day before owing to the broken axle being unfinished, yet started at seven o'clock, and drove fourteen miles to grass on the bank oi the river. At this place, our mess, and the mess from Rutherford County. Xorth Carolina ; composed of Gilky. Shoreffer, Dwitty and Craz- tc n ; concluded to leave the train and endeavor to travell more steadily, and if possible more expeditiously than we had been doing. We accordingly started at three o'clock and drove six miles to a small knoll, about two miles in advance of Wilson's camp. Saturday, 23rd. We made an early start and drove fifteen miles to grass near the river. In the afternoon we travelled eight miles, about four miles in advance of Wilson's train. The road is good, and water abundant. Sundav we started from camp very reluctantly, as we are opposed to trav- elling on this day. but having lost three days this week, we felt ourselves justified in moving on. We passed fifteen graves to-dav of emigrants who died with the Cholera, from the i/th to the 23rd of last month. We drove on a fine road to-day, crossing one or two fine creeks, where we supplied ourselves with water. As the sun was disappearing in the west we drove up to the fine spring near Chimney rock, a notorious land mark, and was glad to give our wearied ani- mals a rest though we could not give them good grass. We travelled twenty-eight miles this day. The Chimney rock resembles a Shot Tower at a distance, but on approach- ing it the Chimney form is quite per- ceptible. It can be seen about thirty miles, eastward, and is composed of soft rock and sand which time will soon destroy. The appearance of the country is beautiful and the hills on the left are washed into blocks, pre- senting a square front, not unlike old barracks of a fortress. Monday we did not make an early start, yet drove fifteen miles to grass. Fourteen miles from Chimney Rock the road leaves the river and emi- grants should by all means provide themselves with water, as they will drive twenty miles before finding any and then not sufficient for all pur- poses. After leaving the river, the road lies through one of the finest valleys I ever saw and is decidedly the best twenty miles of road we have travelled. By the spring at Scotts Blufif. there i.-i a store and blacksmith's shop, kept by Rubedere, a trader who has re- sided among the Sioux Indians for thirteen years. Grass is very good and water excellent for present use, being unfit to carry, even to Horse Creek, a distance of twelve miles. We travelled thirty miles and were very reluctant to stop on such a fine read. There were eight trains camp- ing in sight of us. My mare broke and ran away from me and I ran four miles after her. The gun of Dwitty was fastened on the saddle and just as I caught her. she sprang back against a bush, thereby causing the gun to discharge, the contents enter- ing the ground between my feet. I uckilv there was no harm done, ex- 3J0unt?ij Arr00a ilj? fUattts 10 ity ftanftr cepting the excessive fatigue occa- sioned me by running so hard. Tuesday we rose at break of day and ate breakfast, in order to start immediately before the trains in the valley. We drove fourteen miles to grass west of Horse Creek, having passed several trains. After taking dinner, we all laid down to rest and were suddenly aroused by the report of a gun among us, which was quick- ly followed by a shriek. We all im- mediately ran to the waggon of the Rutherford Mess and found to our surprise, Lafayette Dwitty, rolling in agony and his clothes on fire. No time was lost in getting the fire extin- guished and him out of the waggon, when we found that eleven buckshot had entered the knee, from the left side of the leg. It seems that he had thrown his gun into the waggon on top of bedding and clothing, and his Mess mate-Shaeffer, having pulled his coat from under the gun, raised the hammer and exploded the per- cusion caps. The. muzzle of the gun v\-as directly in contact with his knee, hence the shot could not scatter, but entered the flesh, striking the bone and glancing in many directions, one or two of the balls passed through and two were extracted by a very kind and accommodating physician, from Illinois, who was nearby when the accident occurred. Fears are en- tertained that amputation will be nec- essary, when we reach Fort Laramie. The physician advises us to hasten to the Fort and place him under the care of an experienced surgeon. This has cast a gloom over the whole com- pany and will materially affect our travell, but this we do not think of compared to the extent of his agony. I felt persuaded that more danger is to be apprehended from the careless- ness of arms among fellow emigrants, than from the hostile Indian. Wednesday, after much delay in the morning, we started and drove very slowly untill we travelled twenty miles to good grass and water. Dwitty suffered much from his wound. Thursday we reached Fort Lar- amie, and we here determined to dis- pose of our heavy waggon and attach six mules to the small one, and hasten on our road. Friday we busied ourselves in con- densing our load and packing in one waggon, and finished at three o'clock. All the trunks, part of the Bacon and everything that was not absolutely necessary was thrown aside. When we had finished our arduous task and were ready to gear our mules, our surprise may be better imagined than described, when an officer of the Fort, stalked into camp and informed us that one of our mules was under the brand of the United States, and he would take it as his property of the same. On repairing to our mules, he selected the finest mule in the gang and pointed to what had escaped our attention, the mark-U. S. The Quar- termaster decided that the mule be- longed to the United States, therefore we must give it up, which we did very reluctantly. The mule was bought of the Government at Santa Fe last win- ter and brought in this spring to Inde- pendence, where we purchased her. The protection afforded to emigrants by the chain of Military Posts is only another name for robbery. An emi- grant can purchase nothing except at an exorbitant price, and in the present instance suffer himself to be stript of his all, when far away from home. Much depended on this mule and we shall feel her loss greatly. In conse- quence of this high handed piece of villainy we struck tent and drove four miles to ordinary grass. Saturday, 3Oth. This morning Hains and Stone returned to the Fort, t'> have an interview with Maj. San- derson relative to our mules. The Major not being cognizant of yester- day's transaction, we thought best to make another effort. We were not a little surprised to find H. M. Atkinson of our Com- pany, preparing to leave us and re- ifemmra nf a (Unto hi "Sfartg-nm?" turn home. Not being inclined to persuade him contrary to his wishes, we acquiesced and bid him farewell, hoping- him a safe return to his fam- ily and friends. We regretted seeing him return on foot, but he did not own any interest in the Company and we could not spare him a mule. We drove twelve miles to a spring and running water, where we found grass quite scarce. Again set out and drove ten miles to the river bottom. When we left the hills and entered the ravine we found a few springs, and plenty of wood in the ravine. After dark, Hains and Stone re- turned with the mule, that the gov- etnment had detained. Atkinson also returned, having taken a second thought about the difficulties in reach- ing home. Major Sanderson, formerly of Co- lumbus, Ohio, is the Commanding Officer of the Fort and conducts him- self with much credit. Especially in this affair. He is a Gentleman in every sense of the word, and will be of infinite service to emigrants. Owing to all the trains in the neigh- borhood of our's leaving camp on Sunday, we concluded to drive also, as the Indians are on the hills nearby, and will take advantage of our situa- tion. They made an effort to steal the mules from a train nearest ours. We drove eight miles to a creek where we found a good grass and we put our mules out as Harris and Mason concluded to return to our Mornings' Camp, for our only bucket which was left inadvertently, and when they re- turned it was too late for us to drive any distance therefore we rested the ballance of the clay at this creek, with only one train in sight. The sur- rounding country is quite rough, the hills being rocky and covered with small cedars, which give them a dark appearance, hence they are called Black Hills. On our left, about one mile the hills are of reddish formation resembling the red clay of Tennessee. On Monday we left camp early, with five Scotchmen, who came up last night in one waggon. They had separated from their party on account of their slow driving. We drove through a rather watered and fertile country for fifteen miles, to grass on the banks of the river. Just ahead, we leave it for some time. I am very unwell to-day, having symp- toms of cholera. At three o'clock we started and drove eight miles to good buffaloe grass, near a branch. The country is more fertile than that we have been passing through for the last two weeks, but is more broken, presenting a variableness which is quite agree- able to the eye. Early Tuesday morning we made ready to leave, when we were sur- prised to see a man ride into camp and claim two horses, which had been brought into our company the night before by a young man of respectable appearance, who requested permission to remain. The matter was soon ex- plained, it appears that a company from New York had made arrange- ments to pack at the Fort and in do- ing so rather inconvenienced the young man and he decided to take two of the horses and go ahead. Only one course was to be pursued, and that was soon acted upon, the horses handed over and the young man re- turned in captivity to the fort. We found the road exceedingly hilly, yet perfectly smooth. Grass was re- markably scarce, but water plenty, ex- cepting the distance of five miles of the latter part of the fifteen mile drive in the forenoon. The hills are com- posed of reddish clay with a slight covering of white sand. Many In- dians were seen near our noon camp, so we deemed it prudent to guard our mules. We drove eight miles to Sandy creek where grass was very scarce. On Wednesday, I awoke and rose early from my bed, which was noth- ing more than a buffaloe robe 3I0urimj Arr000 atna in ttyt partftr stretched on the ground with the clear blue sky for covering. We were compelled to herd our mules on the hills near by camp and being appre- hensive of the Indians we concluded to lay near the stock. There were six trains in sight of us and all night our ears were deafened by the reports of guns and pistols, etc., which were fired in celebration of the coming day, July the Fourth. Doctor drove, (myself waggoner to-day) fourteen miles to ordinary grass on the bank of the Platte. The country presents about the same appearance, no grass worth mentioning, but water is abundant. The road is in fine order and not so hilly. After resting one and a half hours, we started and drove to the ferry, where we were kindly accom- modated by Mr. Turner of the Pio- neer Line. We had travelled twenty miles. Thursday we hitched up and drove five miles on a very Sandy road, along the bank of the river. Our mules needed grass and we deemed it best to feed them, though on poor grass. After three hours feeding we drove seven miles to fine grass on the river's edge, where our mules fitted them- selves for hard travell on the ensueing day. We had gone thirteen miles. We left camp at sun rise Friday, and drove on a very hilly and sandy road for ten miles, when we unhitched our mules and took them to an island in the river where grass was very good. The grass along the hills is parched, and the soil has the appearance of being very poor. There was no wood on the hills and but very little near the river. I had a severe toothache which ren- dered me miserable in the extreme. We drove after dinner five miles to a trading waggon, where we stopped, in order to trade, and then drove the mules to grass, off the road north two miles, where we intend to keep them untill one o'clock in the morning and then start on our way. Saturday, 7th. Early this morning we were roused from our sleep by the guard bringing in the mules and soon we had eaten the cold piece of meat made ready for us by the cook and were off on the road for the hard travell before us. I drove about seven miles when the pain in my head was so severe that I gave the lines to Mason and crawled in the waggon, suffering the greatest agony all the time. No stop of con- sequence was made at noon as there was no water and little grass. After leaving the river, we found on the ridge, about two miles, a fine pond of water and another about four miles, which is not impregnated with alkali. About five o'clock we reached the Alkali SprinTS, where we camped for the night. The grass is good from the road and the water tastes like Seidlitz Powder, more than any thing I know of. No injurious effect re- sulted from the use of the water, with either ourselves or with the mules. We travelled twenty miles. Sunday morning we concluded to move onward untill we reached good grass and water, as our stock was suf- fering for both. The ox trains that have preceeded us have lost many oxen from the use of this water and I fear many will not profit by the example. We drove four miles to Willow Springs, where there is plenty of water, but no grass and the many dead oxen lying near the water induced us to continue our journey untill the great desirable is found. There is a fine spring two miles from the Willow Spring but we missed it and drove four miles to the foot of a hill where we struck the sma 1 ! creek, which has been trickling down the swamp to our left for six mi!es. The water is net good, nor is the grass, but our mules need grass so much, that we were compelled to turn them out and let them pick all they can. The wind blew a perfect tempest and nothing is so disagreeable to the nf a (into &??k?r in "3farty-mur traveller than to have sand blown in his eyes all day. In the afternoon we drove five miles, crossing Greasy Creek and turning down it untill we found good grass. The excellent grass is a great treat to the mules and by feeding will much improve their condition. I en- joyed a bath in the river finely in the evening. The valley is remarkably beautiful and quite a preceptible dif- ference greets the eye in the feature of the whole country. On Monday the luxuriant grass near by camp induced us to let our mules feed untill nine o'clock when we gathered up and directed our course to the road, leaving the blu!T to our left. To our left about one hundred yards, there was a lake of Alkali, which had nearly dried up and Sal- uratis was lying in abundance in the bottom. After driving about eight miles we reached the notable Independence Rock, on the bank of Sweet Water River. There is nothing remarkable about the rock except its position, which is at the opening of a valley. 1 he rock is about half a mile long, by one fourth mile wide, and is com- posed of sandstone mixed with small pieces of granite and flint. Many crevices are near the summit and nearest the river there is quite a de- pression, in the summit, resembling a saddle. It does not present the rug- ged appearance that is characteristic of the mountains, to the east. The plain is wide and beautiful in the ex- treme, while to the west the valley is quite narrow, in the middle of which winds the gentle stream. Sweet Water River. About the rock are many camps, among which I noticed two Government Trains. Near the rock the road crosses the river and ascends the hill to the left, on which you travell for five miles, in order to miss the Devils Gate, a narrow place in the Rocky Mountains, through which the River has forced itself. We drove about two miles beyond the gate to very good grass on the bank of the River. Well do the mountains de- serve the name of Rocky, as there is to all appearance no earth among the rock, yet the eye is greeted occasion- ally with a green bush growing in the crevice of the rock. So far the mountains are not high but quite steep. Tuesday we left camp early and drove to ordinary grass on the hilb. We travelled twelve miles along the creek, when we left it and took to the hills, the roads sandy and heavy. A short distance from the creek on the hills there is a small lake, dry, the bottom of which is covered with Sal- uratis. We overtook Mr. Briddleman of Sulivan County, E. Tennessee, who left the states a few days before we did. After resting two hours at noo.-. we hitched up and travelled about six miles on a very deep and sandy road, having crossed the creek only once. The grass to the left of the road three miles, is excellent and not bad grass on the creek. We passed many dead oxen on the road, the stench from which perfumes the air for a great distance. I left the road and rode two miles to the right, untill I struck the Sweet Water River, continueing down the same about one mile I reached a camp of two waggons, which I found were from Tennessee. One of the men was from Ash County, North Car. - lina. and acquainted with many of my friends, the others were from Hawk- ins and Sulivan Counties, of East Tennessee. They were rejoiced to hear from me that our mess was from the neighboring counties. A black man, belonging to Kincade is very sick with the cholera and will in all probability die very soon. We made eighteen miles (hiring the day. Wednesday morning we did not start so early as usual in consequence of the intention of our company to drive only eighteen mik-> this day. We drove ten miles when we stopped Arrnss atttH tn tfo |Jariftr and crossed the river to good grass, where we remained four hours. Again we set out and crossing the river five times, we drove eight miles to the banks of the river, and at the foot of the hill, where the road leaves the river for sixteen miles. The grass had been good, but was eaten short, therefore we drove the mules down the river about one mile where we found fine grass. About seven miles back and near where we struck the river we passed through the narrow- est place on the road. It is about fifty yards wide, for one hundred vards, then gradually widening untill it opens into a wide plain. The rocky cliffs continued on our right and left, throughout the day's distance. Made our eighteen miles that day. Thursday, the last watch was mine, and I awoke the camp at three o'clock, in order to make an early start, as we had sixteen miles to make before with- out wood or water. We started at sun rise and drove twelve miles to some water to the left of the road about one half a mile. We found poor grass, no grass of consequence is to be found any where near the road. The road is sandy for a short distance, but generally is very firm and even. After feeding three hours we geared up and drove four miles, where we descended from the hills to the river and crossing a deep ford. All the grass has been eaten short, and so many dead oxen near by in- duced us to climb a very long hill and again descend a steep rough side, to the river, making about four miles from the last ford to where we again meet the river. Grass is excellent, but wood scarce. In the morning the snow capped mountains in the far distance, pre- sented themselves to our view, and this is the first time we have ever seen snow in the month of July. The mules did not like the grass we found on Thursday, so on Friday we did not think it necessary to re- main longer than sun-rise when we started and drove sixteen miles to very good grass, on the Strawberry Creek. There were fourteen Comf.a- nies camped in the valley that even- ing. Saturday, I4th. The grass being so good we concluded to remain untill noon and let our mules eat to their hearts content. While they were Bat- ing, the waggon of Steele and Co., was being unloaded and fixed. Haines is very unwell to-day, so much so that he took a dose of Calomel. At twelve o'clock we hitched up and drove sixteen miles to the Pacific Springs on the west side of the noto- rious South Pass. When we left Strawberry Creek, we ascended a long hill and continued along the sum- mit for three or four miles, when we descended to the Sweet Water River, where we found snow in piles along the side of the hill. At this place we again ascended a long hill, continuing to ascend a gradual slope for ten miles, when we reached the Summit of the South Pass. The road is one of the best we have had, only equaled by the piece from the Platte River to the Chimney Rock. In the distance can be seen mountains, facing us, and one" is led to wonder how he will get through their passes if not assured he may think he must of necessity climb some of them. From the sum- mit to the Spring (distance, three miles) the road is sandy, of white sand. The Pacific Spring is very large and rises near a, hill and waters a low piece of land near by which is very marshy. The water is as cold as ice, and clear as crystal. We trav- elled nineteen miles. Sunday we remained at the Springs in order to feed our mules, and rest Haines, who was quite sick that morn- ing. He was salivated and in any thing but a pleasant situation to be travelling. I went out to watch the mules, three miles distant, and lay down and slept in the boiling sun for two hours, the balance of the day I spent in reading of a dfoUt in a "tract," and the works of Tom Moore. In the evening I returned to the camp and was rejoiced to find Haines much better, yet not able to ride in the waggon as usual, therefore Dr. Stone and myself, made him a swinging bed by which he will be enabled to ride with a degree of ease. Early Monday morning we brought our mules from grass and made ready to travell, in order to get ahead of the many Companies which camped near us, but it availed little as some of the ox trains were moving before us. We drove nine miles when we reached a small creek, the waters of which are strongly impregnated with Alkali, and is quite dangerous to give cattle. We drove three miles, when we stopped and fed our mules on very ordinary grass. Rested about three hours and again drove ten miles to the west bank of Little Sandy, where we found many Companies in camp. Grass was very good about three miles from the ford. Haines was much better. Drove twenty three miles. We rose late on Tuesday morning and drove six miles to Big Sandy, where we camped untill four o'clock P. M. in order to feed the mules well, before travelling what is called the "Stretch," a distance of thirty five miles, without water or grass. I met two persons in an Ohio train from Franklin County, Pennsylvania, named Price and Kilgo. They were acquainted with Genl. Deems and family of Elizabethtown, East Ten- nessee, and made many inquiries re- specting the family. Also met a man and lady from Williamsporte, Penna., named Brown, who appeared much pleased to see me, as I was from Cen- tre County, since them, and therefore enabled to give some "news" of their friends and acquaintances. They also told me of the whereabouts of Major Robt. Beck, and the Messrs. Hustens, who were en route for Cali- fornia. We left the bank of Sandys at four o'clock and drove a steady but brisk gate for twenty miles, when we halted a few minutes, again resuming our march we travelled about five miles when we met a regular of the U. S., returning from Green River, who re- ported that the river was twenty eight miles distant, instead of ten as we thought, relying upon "Weir" as guide, who we find very incorrect. Having travelled untill daylight we lay by for three hours in the fourth long hollow we found on the road and which we thought to be thirty five miles from Sandy. Again we set out and travelling over very rough road, we reach the third ferry on the river, in about seventeen miles, making the "Stretch" in fifty two miles. The ferry where the road first finds the river is not a good one and Dr. Stone and I rode down to a more conven- ient one about three miles from the one lower down and the one used by the Government. We drove down a very steep decline to the river's edge, where we pitched camp and swam our mules across to fine grass, about five miles from the ferry. Many wag- gons were on the bank waiting their turn to cross and we did not expect to cross untill the following clay as there were forty two before us. On Friday morning while lying in the grass near the mules. Mason called and when he came up he gave us the cheering news that our wag- gon was across the river and we could drive off immediately. We therefore drove in our mules and soon were hitched and on the road, though not untill six or seven ox trains were be- fore us. The road lay down the river for three miles when it diverges to the right and ascends a very steep hill. From one to two miles we were crossing deep Sandy hills, when we met the road from the lower ferry, coursing toward the hills about two miles distant. The hill was very steep and sandy. So much so that it was with difficulty we reached the summit. For several miles we om- Arrnua ilj? plains ia ilj? tinned to cross steep hills untill we descended to a fine creek, up which we travelled four miles, where we found grass very good, near the bank of the creek. Many camps are in the valley and while on guard I thought the fires quite cheerful to a shivering watch-man. That evening Dr. Stone and myself called on 'Miss Elizabeth White, of Pleasant Hill, Van Buren County, Mo., but formerly of Suli- van Co., E. Tennessee. Her parents are emigrating at an advanced age with her quite young. She is quite pretty and very agreeable and inter- esting young lady. It afforded me much pleasure to meet her and equally as much pain to leave the train she is travelling in. Friday we brought in the mules at an early hour and soon were ready to travel when we found ourselves in ad- vance of all the trains in the valley. We found the road very hilly, more of the hills were steeper than any we have had on the route. We drove sixteen miles to the fine spring on the top of a hill, where the grass presented fine feeding for the mules. While we were grassing our stock, several trains appeared on the hills, two miles behind us, which set us to work to gearing and just started when Miss White acompanied by a young gallant of the train rode up and informed us that their train was near by. She rode along with us, entertain- ing us very agreeably, for three miles, when she stopped, to wait for the Company. We drove within two miles of the base of the mountain, where we found excellent grass and wood, but not very good water. Made twenty two miles Saturday, 2ist. I rose much re- freshed, after a fine sleep for one en- tire night, the first I have had for five nights. We did not start early as usual, yet left at six o'clock and drove twelve miles to the summit of the dividing ridge, where we stopped to feed. The road lay over very steep hills and across the creek, known as Thomas Fork, which winds through a narrow but beautiful valley, covered with fragrant grass. For the first time, to-day, we have had quite a pleasant shower of rain, which seemed to lay the dust on the road. After crossing "Thomas Fork," and ascending the very steep hill, the surrounding country presented a most striking contrast to the barren hills we have been passing, for the last two or three days. Lines of fine tim- ber were stretched near shallow rav- ines to our right, while the gentle un- dulations of the plain covered with a rich verdure rested on our left. While resting at noon a fine shower came up which added a still brighter hue to the fine bed of green grass. We started and drove ten miles to the side of a hill just above a small creek. The road in the afternoon was decidedly the hilliest and most difficult to pass that we have had, since we left Independence. We tried to reach the river but the bad road rendered it impossible. Sunday the insufficiency of grass at our camp rendered it necessary for u:- to drive to the river, where we could do justice to our stock and our- selves. The road winds clown a steep decline for some considerable dis- tance where it takes a hierh but level ridge, which leads to the river. The river bottom is about one half a mile wide and is covered with the finest of grass, consisting of Herd. Timothy and Blue Grass, also wild flax is found in great abundance where the road first reaches the river. In the afternoon a very hard rain came over the hills, which completely demolished the high grass. Dr. Stone devoted the greater part of the evening to baking Apple Pies, which were a very great luxury with us, on the plains. Now we can ap- preciate the fine dinners set before us at our homes and must acknowledge nf a in that we were too choice where so much was to be had. Eight miles. We set out early Monday morning from our camp and drove fourteen miles to the bend of the river, where the -ou ! leaves it for five miles. We crossed a fine large creek that morn- ing five times, which is very deep. The road is level and in fine order. At our camp at noon many trains were in advance of us and in sight all of which we will overhaul soon. At three o'clock we set out and travelled five miles around to reach the ford of the river which empties into Bear, near this point. After crossing, the road takes up the hill and does not strike the river again for five miles. In the distance there are one or two bad hills, equally as .^teep as any we have crossed. Also a fine creek, about one mile from the river, where we camped for the night. The valley is small but quite beauti- ful, at the head some twenty miles from us there is located the largest Indian village of the Sknake Tribe, containing two thousand persons. Travelled twenty miles. We set out Tuesday morning be- fore any of the trains in the valley, and crossed to the river's bottom, dis- tance four miles, \vhere we found ex- cellent road. Passed this morning a few lodges of the Sknakes', situated near the margin of the river to the left side of the road. Also saw three traders here, one of whom has a wife and children and is of the Mormon faith, the other is from White City, Tennessee. After driving twelve miles we rested near a beautiful stream of mountain water, for a few hours. Again set out and crossing a num- ber of small fine watered streams, we drove about ten miles to excellent grass about one mile to the right of the road on a fine stream. The fine grass induced us to believe our mules perfectly safe, without being "staked," but we discovered our mis- take about ten o'clock, when we were aroused by the running of the whole stock and the cries of the guard. All immediately gave chase and in about one and a half miles, one of the Steels and myself, succeeded in out-running them and turning them toward the camp. I had run the whole distance in my stocking feet, without hat, coat or jacket and at my fastest, so when I found myself ahead I was nearly "done out." It was with difficulty I could draw my breath, and the excru- ciating pain in my breast, accompa- nied by the sickness of the stomach alarmed me no little, as to the results. I was little fit to stand guard in a few hours after returning to camp, much less the part of the preceeding watch, as I \vas awakened by Taylor one hour before the time, through mis- take. My partners did not discover the mistake untill too late and the fact of their doing so, very inadvertently induced us to stand untill the expira- tion of our regular time. At seven o'clock Wednesday, we found ourselves ready to start and soon reached the road, which run up the hill some distance from the river, crossing many small creeks. We drove twelve miles for noon feed, to very ordinary grass, near or rather between two small branches running from the mountains to the river. Again hitched up and drove eight miles to the bank of the river about one half mile east of the Steamboat Spring, and next one mile from the Soda or Beer Springs. I visited the Soda Springs, about one mile north of the road and found the water effer- vescing in a hole some three feet deep in a solid rock. The water tastes ex- actly like Seidlitz Powder, and acts with the bowels in the same way. They are quite a curiosity and one may consider himself well repaid for the trouble of visiting them. The Steamboat Spring is a few feet of the river's edge, and is named from the resemblance it has to the puffing of a Steamboat, though to me it has the resemblance more to the acting of water heated in a kettle. The water is quite warm and unfit for use. 3fnrn?ij Armu0 Thursday we left camp quite late and drove to the turn of the road to Oregon via Fort Hall, where we con- cluded to take a left hand trail which would carry us through the moun- tains to the St. Mary's river, thereby cutting off many miles. The road passed near an old crater, which at once accounted for the vol- canic appearance of the country around us. After leaving the Ore- gon road, no water is to be found on the road for less than fourteen miles, where there is a stream of exceeding cold water, where it would be nice for all emigrants to rest as fine grass is on the surrounding hills. We rested a few hours and then drove four miles to a still larger stream, where we found excellent grass. Many Indians were in camp this evening wanting to trade. Here for the first time I witnessed the filthy practice among them, so often men- tioned by travellers, that of eating their vermin. They pick them from their heads and cooly thrust them in- to their mouths ; after witnessing this I could not speak or suffer them to approach me. We set out early Friday and drove twelve miles before noon to a fine branch, about three miles from camp we struck the creek we camped on, where we watered, as we would not find water for eight miles, and were very agreeably surprised to find a fine spring at the foot of the hill. While approaching the Spring, a man came running into camp at full speed, shouting at the top of his voice, every jump, "Indians." Some thirty or forty rifles were down and that many men running in the direction of the persuers who only numbered one man, who had galloped in the direc- tion of the White man to shake hands with him. A small party of Panacks were near the hills across the swamp. The road was very good, no difficulty whatever in passing. We drove ten miles to good water, making twenty miles in all. to % f artftr Saturday, 28th. The number of trains near us compelled us to start early and crossing only one water course, we drove fifteen miles to another fine one, where the grass was good and we concluded to remain for the day. In the evening I washed my dirty clothes, which is the most disagreeable part of the trip. The fine grass and water and the excessive fatigue of our mules, to- gether with our inclination to rest on Sunday, readily determined us to re- main at our Camp untill Monday. The day was quite sultry and I spent the most of it sleeping. Many trains were passing which would not reach water that night, as an Indian informed me it was ten miles from water to water, ^nnrrnft LibniO We set out early Monday morning and found the road crossed one hill and then turning short off to the right, ascends for several miles very grad- ually, when a short but steep place presented itself. Soon we crossed it and found ourselves on the summit of a very steep hill, which we found quite difficult to descend. We crossed many fine valleys, but did not reach water untill four o'clock, when we found five fine springs. There had been near two hundred waggons at this ground the night before and the grass was eaten off short, so we took our mules to grass about one mile from camp. Travelled twenty seven miles. Set out quite early Tuesday morn- ing and drove six miles, where we found that there was no water for fifteen miles, so we filled our vessels, but had not gone far when we learned that a fine creek was five miles in ad- vance of us, where unhitched and fed our mules. Again set out and drove down the ravine ten miles where we found fine grass on the bank of the creek. Many springs are to be found on the road at distances ranging from three to five miles apart. Wednesday we set out early and drove fifteen miles to a small but fine watered creek, for noon feed. Four Hmrnra nf a in "3Fnrig-mtu> miles from camp we left the ravine or cannon we had been travelling in for two days and struck across the uplands, twelve miles to water. We set out again after three hours rest and drove across a dry, sandy and barren piece of land, five miles to a fine creek, rather the Raft River, then went up the creek three miles, and crossed where we camped near the junction of the Fort Hall and Cut-off roads Making twenty one miles, and one hundred and twenty miles on the distance of the Cut-off. The road most certainly is in a more direct course and will also compare with the road via Fort Hall, for many miles it is a little south west in its direction and is in fine order lying in cannons where nature has done everything for a natural road. There are but two hills on the entire road that are bad ones, they are not so troublesome as those on the Sublet Cut-off though. Taking everything together the road is excellent and will save to the emigrants at least three days travell with teams. We passed through in six days travell while manv trains were twelve days in go- ing by Fort Hall. At sunrise on Thursday morning we commenced our days journey and when we reached the foot of the dividing ridge, between Humbolt and Raft, we learned that there was no grass or water for twelve miles, so we concluded to stay at the creek where three fine but small springs put out and feed our mules. We again set out and commenced the gradual ascent of the ridge and in three hours were at the summit, then turning a more westerly course, we descended as gradually as we had ascended, into a fine vallev where we found plenty of water at three places, from two to four miles apart. The "Dividing Ridge" bears a striking resemblance to the famous South Pass in the Rocky Mountains. I found small particles of Gold in one of the creeks we crossed, but think that no great quantities are to be found. Drove eighteen miles. Friday we made a late start in the morning and drove ten miles into a valley where we found water to the right hand of the road. The grass is excellent and well suited for horses. Again set out and drove eight miles to the head of the creek that puts out from the Narrows. The road is very dusty and the day was exceedingly warm. Just as you leave the valley and enter the Narrows, you will find a fine large spring. While at this place three waggons of the Dayton Ohio Company came up, having travelled via Salt Lake, of which they speak in glowing terms. Mc-Clure, Marrot, Edmondson, Flint, Broadwell and Tingley are among the number and will travell with us. Saturday, 4th, of August. In the morning we set out early and crossed the ridge to Goose creek, about six miles. The road is very bad and at one hill we were compelled to let the waggon down with ropes. We travelled about seven miles down the creek, where we stopped to feed our mules near where the Dayton Company grazed. In the afternoon we started and had not driven more than three miles when we broke the hounds of the waggon in the crossing of a rut or gully, near a Sulpher Spring. About two hours was lost in repair- ing them, and the road being in fine order, we drove five miles where we reached the Dayton Company and camped for the night on the banks of the creek. Sunday being the dav of rest, we concluded to remain at our camp un- till Monday. The Dayton Compum started at daylight and we had to do the same Monday, in order to over- take them this week. The day is quite breezy and threatens rain. We all heartily wish it may fall in tor- rents. Inurtmj Arrnsu tlj? {Ihtuta tn tfj? flarifu Monday at two o'clock in the morn- ing the mules were brought in and one hour after we were ready to trav- ell. We had only driven about three miles when the waggon belonging to Steel and Brothers (who have been travelling with us from a short dis- tance this side of Ft. Laramie) cap- sized in crossing a deep ravine full of water. The driver drove too far to the right and all fell off a bank, four feet into the water. Fortunately nothing was hurt and a short time only elapsed before all was restored to proper order and the waggon crossed by hand. We travelled up this creek, ten miles, passing on the way many ox trains, when we left it and com- menced a gradual ascent for several miles on a barren country. No grass was any where to be found and less water. This state of things com- pelled us to move on slowly untill we should reach water, which we did about thirteen miles from the Goose Creek. The springs were of the pur- est water, but not cool as their ap- pearance would indicate, yet not hot enough to entitle them to the name given them Hot Springs. As the grass at the springs had been eaten up, we drove five miles to the four springs on the left of the road, where grass was very poor. The water is very cool and refreshing. Many companies were near us that night. We passed one~ hundred and three teams, going twenty eight miles. Tuesday. Set out and drove twenty three miles to good grass and water, where our mules fed themselves to their satisfaction. Again drove in the afternoon fourteen miles to a fine spring near a Companv from Arkan- sas, in which was Dr. Powell of East Tennessee. Also met with a young man formerly of Burk County, North Carolina, who was nursing a young man just at deaths door, with con- sumption, named Due Chandler of Yancey County, North Carolina, and a son of Lew Chandler of that County and State. He was attacked with Cholera and the exposure brought a relapse and finally turned to Typhoid Fever and Consumption, which will result in his death before many hours. He was insensible and could not observe any person. We drove twenty seven miles. Wednesday we set out at sunrise and drove to the head of the valley, about ten miles, where there is a fine spring and water for the stock and where we supplied ourselves with a sufficiency to do us across the hills eight miles to a branch of St. Mary's river, where we found a fine cold spring and excellent grass. After resting two hours we again set out and enterin^ the Cannon, we crossed the creek nine times, many of the places ^eing exceedingly difficult to pass. The ox trains being very slow in crossing, detained us till after night in reaching the valley where we found a company from Tennessee, consisting of Henley, Bagby, Love- less, Stone and Sevier and Russell, who kindly directed us to the best grass. Having crossed the creek and the worst part of the crossing after night, we broke a bolt connecting the tongue of the waggon to the hounds. Made twenty eight miles. Thursday we made a late start, ow- ing to the fatigue of ourselves and mules, yet in plenty of time to over- take our Tennessee friends, in ten miles, near water and good grass, where we stopped to feed. Here Mr. Sevier gave us some yeast, for bread, which will be a treat. Again set out and drove ten miles to St. Marys River, coming in from the North and which has some flow of water. The sfrass in the valley is of the finest and most nutritious kind, but water is scarce. Distance, during the dav twenty miles. Friday we left camp late and drove ten miles to a fine camping place near the river. Crossing the hills twice to-day, neither more than one mile stretch, across the hill. The road is very dusty and the mules quite fa- nf a (into in tigued. The appearance of the coun- try is as barren as one could expect. Drove twenty miles. Saturday, nth. In the morning after the trains had started I re- mained at camp untill the waggons from Dayton Ohio came up, when I was not a little surprised to find Wm. H. Smith, of Dayton, in the Com- pany. He was an Engineer on the Miami Canal, when I contracted ac- quaintance with him. He informed me that the Sidney Company was be- hind us, having taken the Ft. Hall road. I was sorry to learn this, as I had anticipated much pleasure in see- ing them. After a very agreeable confab with Air. Smith, I left him and rode forward to overtake the Com- pany, which I succeeded in doing in two hours, having travelled twelve miles in the morning. After resting three hours we set out and drove eight miles to fine grass near the mouth of Thomas's Fork, of St. Marys, where we remained untill morning. Drove twenty miles. Sunday, I2th of August 1849. The evening before we had determined to travell on Sunday, in order to keep in advance of the ox trains we are already ahead of, but the fine grass near by renders it a matter of neces- sity to suffer the mules to graze. We were this day invited to attend preaching at the camp of the "Union Band," of Illinois, about one mile above us on the creek. This was an opportunity that one had not m^ t with lately and we very gladly availed ourselves of it. The preacher was the Rev. Mr. Rumston, of the Metho- dist Denomination, but from his ser- mon, one would be greatly puzzled to discern the difference between his doctrine and that held by the Univer- salists. He argued that "Adam and the Old Lady" did not die a Spiritual death, when they transgressed, but only disobeyed the Commandments yet would have suffered a temporal death, had not God promised that "the sin of woman should bruise the serpents head," thereby attempting to prove that every person from Adam down to the present day had been saved, "if not his text is false," be- cause it pronounces him a Savior of all man-kind. Taking the sermon and the preacher altogether (for that is the way we come to any conclusion on the plains) it was a very poor ex- cuse, even for the season and the Lat- itude. I had not patience to hear him out, and left the place about one half hour before he finished. This is the second Minister I have seen En Route for the new El Dorado and I have lost confidence in them in exact pro- portion to my acquaintance with them. Gold is there only topic and bears a great contrast to the teaching of our Lord Jesus Christ. The day was one of exceeding pleasure, just sufficient breeze afloat to make it comfortable and the sun warm and agreeable, though not sultry and hot. Many ox teams passed and went slowly on. Monday. We set out at sunrise and travelled eleven miles to grass near the river. About four miles from camp we came to the fork of the road, where we kept the left hand, down the river, crossing in the mean time the river three times at good fords. Passed the Dayton Company, to which Mr. McCorkle belonged and with whom I rode about five miles and talked of Ohio and my friends. At noon a Cheyenne Indian came into camp and behaved very friendly. He showed us the substitute for the "Punk and Flint," which was a piece of dried Beech wood inserted in the end of an arrow, which was set in a hole to fit it in a piece of wood of same kind and then by friction, fire was set to dry earth, which was first put in a notch at the side of the hole. Again drove ten miles to the hill where the road turns to the right and strikes the river in twenty miles. About ten miles from this turn of the road will be found several fine springs, but little grass for stock. 3l0trnu>g in tlj? Jtartftr Early Tuesday morning the mules were driven in and hitched up in order we might have the early part of the day to cross the "Stretch." Just as we were starting one of our Company took all his baggage out of the waggon, with the determination of leaving us. Nothing was said to induce him to remain, as he was a very disagreeable man, though one lost much by suffering him to leave us after coming so far. He and Haines had disagreed on the day be- fore and not a day preceeding that for the last two months, but he was quarreling with some one of the Com- pany. None of us bid him goode- bye, as we had but a poor opinion of him. We travelled twenty two miles to where we struck the river and cross- ing we continued down five miles to good grass, where we stopped for the night. No grass is to be found near the river where you strike it. The dust was almost unendurable in the Cannon, having had nothing to equal it since leaving the states. Drove twenty seven miles. Wednesday we set out at daylight and drove fifteen miles for noon feed, on the river bank. The mules were very much j added to-day, caused I think by eating bullrushes, on the pre- ceeding night. Stone drove for the first time since leaving the states and performed the duty of waggoner admirably. In the afternoon we drove eight miles to fine feed on the river. There is no grass of account on the river for fifteen miles after the road from the stretch. The Indians are also very troublesome here, having stolen many cattle from trains last here. Eight Indians have been killed by the Whites, in the last fortnight and I much fear they will become more troublesome than ever. Distance on Wed. twentv three miles. Met In- glesby, of Urbana. At sunrise on Thursday, we left camp and drove thirteen miles to ordinary grass on the river. While nooning to-day a shower came up but did nothing scarcely but threaten to rain very hard. Our mules are much better, but the horses of the Messrs. Steele are still affected, so much so, that it is with difficulty they travell. Owing to these horses being so jad- ded, we did not start from noon feed untill three o'clock and then drove twelve miles, to good grass. The Messrs. Steele did not reach our camp that evening, therefore we are alone, and will not have them with us on the end of our journey. We all regret- ted leaving them as they were careful and steady men, and asrreed with us in our travelling better than any we have met on the road, but we could not think of loosing time in waiting for their horses to recruit. Late Friday morning we started and drove twelve miles for noon rest. The country is very barren and only in a few places is any grass to 'be found. The Rheumatism has re- turned on me with greater pain trian ever, and it is with much difficulty that I can walk. After three hours rest we again set out and travell thir- teen miles to very good grass, near the pass in the hills. Saturday, i8th. We made a very late start and drove through the pass in the hills, about five miles, where there is no grass or water. At eleven o'clock we reached fine grass, after travelling twelve miles. Grass is very scarce on the part of the road we passed over. We let our mules eat to their content and then set out and drove six miles, near a large train, where we were so fortu- nate as to find excellent grass. Sunday morning we concluded to rest untill two o'clock, when we would drive a short distance. The day was beautiful, but the night was exceedingly cold, with a heavy frost on the ground. At the time agreed on we were ready to leave camp and soon were off at a fine rate, Dr. Stone driving. He drove eight miles, when we stopped near two waggons from Missouri, one of the men formerly ifemmrs nf a in from Washington County, East Ten- nessee. The grass is very good across the river, but wood is unusually scarce and the ford is very deep and difficult to cross. The Evening much resembled the quiet Sunday Evening that we were accustomed to have at home with our friends. We often think of home and the many friends we have left, but at no time does the feeling make such an impression on one's mind as on a beautiful Sabbath Evening, when the same stillness prevails over every thing. We often wish ourselves at home and with the permission of Providence, we will gratify that wish at no very distant day. at least so soon as we can in a measure fill our pockets with the "Dust." Monday we drove twelve miles and found excellent grass on the oppo- site side of the river where we fed our mules three hours. Then started and drove six miles to very poor grass, but we could not do better, and we must be content. Distance eigh- teen miles. Tuesday. Our long journey is nearing the end and with feverish ex- citement we sleep and eat. We started early and drove four miles to the forks of the road, where we took the right bank, leading over the hills fourteen miles to water. The road is very direct and level. We did not stop at noon as we had no grass or water, but drove through to the river and down the same two miles, where we rested our stock on poor grass. Wednesday. It was with difficulty i ,-Awe rested, and on Wednesday at one o'clock A. M. we geared up and started on our road, driving about two miles when we came to the forks of the road, the left being the old road to California, going into the same through the great pass in the moun- tains and the ri