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 BY HIS DAUGHTER 
 
 MRS. KATIE E. BL.OOD 
 
 PARKERSBURG, W. TA. 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF 
 
 Associated Publishers of American Records 
 
 New Haven, Conn. 
 
 1907 
 
UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF 
 
 ttyt plains tn tlj? $tartftr 
 
 ARCH 15, 1849. Our 
 final arrangements 
 were made yesterday, 
 and all were ready 
 this morning to start 
 on our long trip to 
 California. Our fam- 
 ilies and friends watch us from the 
 Court House, as we wend our way 
 down the hill towards the river, and 
 at the last bend we wave our last 
 adieu to our loved ones. The day is 
 rather cold with threatening clouds, 
 and with heavy hearts and feverish 
 hopes, we ride on. Our party is 
 small, but many will join on our way 
 and at Independence, hundreds will 
 be on the trail. 
 
 Our company consists of Thomas 
 S. Lowry, Jarius Palmer, John Rob- 
 erts, James Reynolds and Henry A. 
 Wood. I ride my bay horse, two 
 others ride, and two drive in wag- 
 gons, which carry provisions and 
 clothes, and such things as we need. 
 
 We travelled sixteen miles to 
 Weaver on French Broad River, 
 arriving in a very hard rain, and it 
 was with difficulty that arrangements 
 were made for the night. Roberts 
 and myself slept in one waggon while 
 the rest were kindly furnished with a 
 comfortable bed in the house. This 
 evening I was initiated into the mys- 
 teries of washing dishes. I fancied 
 I did the thing up "brown." 
 
 March i6th. The next day the 
 rain stopped and we left camp and 
 travelled as far as Bartlett's, twenty- 
 three miles, when the waggon broke 
 down and had to be repaired. W'ood 
 and I walked over the bridge to the 
 Warm Springs and I was surprised to 
 find the water quite warm. The 
 Warm Springs are situated in a 
 healthy and romantic valley of the 
 French Broad River, and are owned 
 by Thos. Patton, Esq., who has fitted 
 up an extensive establishment for the 
 accommodation of invalids, who are 
 generally restored to their wanted 
 health by the medicinal waters. 
 
 The next day we left Bartlett's at 
 seven o'clock and drove to McMa- 
 
 honey over very bad roads. The day 
 was very wet and we were put to our 
 wit's end in setting our tent and cook- 
 ing supper in the rain. Reynolds was 
 taken quite sick but soon recovered. 
 The falling of the rain was dreary, 
 and our thoughts wander back to 
 those sitting around the home fire. 
 Drove twenty-three miles today. 
 
 March 1 8th, Sunday. Early this 
 morning, we broke camp and drove 
 to Miller's. The roads were very 
 muddy and fatigued our horses more 
 so this day than any preceding one. 
 Passed through a fine country, some 
 highly cultivated. Crossed French 
 Broad River for the last time at 
 Hayes Ferry. Drove twenty-three 
 miles. 
 
 The next day, we drove all day, 
 arriving bv night at Dr. Ramsey's at 
 the Junction of French Broad and 
 Holsten Rivers, where they form the 
 Tennessee. We were kindly fur- 
 nished with rooms by the Doctor and 
 treated with the greatest kindness. 
 The roads are muddy and with diffi- 
 culty did we drive twenty-four miles 
 
 Late Tuesday morning we broke 
 camp, cooking breakfast being in- 
 trusted to the most skillful, as the 
 rain caused the fire to smoke. The 
 coffee was good, but the bread was 
 poor. The oven will not heat well 
 and put us once more to our wit's end, 
 but we arrived in Knoxville at night. 
 We intend to remain until some ar- 
 rangement can be effected to take the 
 Company by water. I sold my horse 
 to Col. John Davis for Forty-four 
 Dollars in gold and made mv arrange- 
 ments to go by water in a flat boat to 
 St. Louis, while the Company are de- 
 termined to go by steamboat. 
 
 All day Wednesday we remained in 
 Knoxville endeavoring to sell the 
 waggon and horses, finally succeed- 
 ing in disposing of Roberts' horse, the 
 Company remaining in the house fid- 
 dling away the time. On Thursday 
 we divided in shares our equipment, 
 my share being a horse, bridle and 
 saddle, which I immediately sold for 
 Fifty Dollars. I then went on board 
 
nf a <0tti 
 
 in 
 
 of boat, "Sam Martin." I formed a 
 mess with Haines, Mason and Atkin- 
 son, of Jonesboro, East Tennessee. 
 There are other young men on board 
 bound for California. One Hundred 
 and Nine miles from home. 
 
 March 23rd. Friday. Our boat 
 has been running down stream at the 
 rate of fifteen miles an hour. The 
 country is beautiful, not as level as 
 I had anticipated, only small flat 
 pieces of land along the shore. The 
 boat is quite crowded, chiefly men 
 with the gold fever. 
 
 Arrived in Chattanooga early Sat- 
 urday morning and went on shore in 
 hopes of seeing Thomas Durin, but 
 was disappointed. While the steamer 
 is loading, many passengers walk in- 
 to town to stretch their legs and are 
 hurried back by the steamer's whistle, 
 signalling her intention to leave the 
 wharf. We made a fine run but 
 "Cassindra" outstripped us. 
 
 On Sunday morning we arrived at 
 Whitesburg, and I was agreeably sur- 
 prised to find my friend, Thomas 
 Durin where he was preparing to 
 leave for home. With much regret, 
 I bade him farewell and I could not 
 but shed a tear as he was the last of 
 the family I would see. How many 
 thousands of miles I shall travel be- 
 fore seeing those clear faces again. 
 
 We reached Decatur having made 
 a steady run of fifteen miles an hour. 
 We were there compelled to take cars 
 on railroad drawn by horses. Some 
 Companies have their horses on 
 board, so they go with them. After 
 much dickering and confusion, we 
 leave Decatur and travel at the rate of 
 six miles an hour. The railroad is 
 very slow after the drifting of the 
 steamboat. We arrived at Tuscum- 
 bia, a beautiful place. It has mam- 
 advantages of making a large busi- 
 ness city. We put up for the night 
 at the Franklin House. The Land- 
 lord is accommodating. We spend 
 Tuesday in Tuscumbia. awaiting the 
 ai rival of a boat to carry us to the 
 mouth of Tennessee River. The boat 
 does not come until three o'clock 
 
 Wednesday. On Thursday, we left 
 on the steamboat. "Courtland," a 
 beautiful boat equal in size and ac- 
 commodation to any eastern boat. 
 The officers are very gentlemanly, 
 and the fare is as good as any I ever 
 knew on board a boat. The landing 
 is one of the most picturesque places 
 I ever saw and the immense ware- 
 house is not surpassed by anything 
 in the world. It is built on the point 
 of hill and is a very durable building. 
 I lost Ten Dollars in gold this even- 
 ing. 
 
 March 3Oth. Friday. Made but 
 little distance at first, owing to the 
 great quantity of cotton on board. 
 There was much gambling on board. 
 The country through which we 
 passed was very fine, but unimproved. 
 The rich river bottoms are much neg- 
 lected, perhaps because of their lia- 
 bility to overflow, the banks being 
 quite low. 
 
 Saturday, we gently sail on. 
 March went out very pleasantly in- 
 deed. With but four exceptions we 
 have had fine weather to travel in. 
 The boat took in two hundred tons 
 of pig metal from the furnace of 
 Stackal. I walked about two miles 
 to the place, and I was surprised to 
 find the richest kind of fossil ore, and 
 quite convenient. This makes a very 
 fine metal. 
 
 Sunday, April ist. A beautiful 
 day but a little cold, fires being quite 
 comfortable. We were running at 
 the rate of fifteen miles an hour, while 
 the water was nearly over the guard. 
 Reaching Paducah as a boat from 
 Cincinnati was coming in, I immedi- 
 ately, on her landing, engaged pas- 
 sage for all of our men, Ne Plus 
 Ultra, at $3.50 to St. Louis. There 
 are nearly one hundred and fifty per- 
 sons from Boston on board, who are 
 bound for California. 
 
 The next morning we awoke to 
 find ourselves at the wharf in St 
 Louis. After dressing and break- 
 fasting, I set out with Stover and 
 Harris to find lodgings, which \\v 
 in getting after a great 
 
to Ity Jlariftr 
 
 length of time, at the United States 
 Hotel, a very good house. In the 
 afternoon, we visited the United 
 States Arsenal and bought knives and 
 carbines for our journey. We need 
 these to protect ourselves and for pro- 
 curing food. In the evening we went 
 to the circus, and saw Dan Rice pre- 
 form the clown in a very creditable 
 manner. The enclosure was crowd- 
 ed, and seemed the resort for those 
 awaiting the making up of parties to 
 go West. 
 
 Wednesday was a wet day, raining 
 very hard. I remained in my room 
 and wrote letters and otherwise 
 busied myself with mending in prep- 
 aration for a long journey, it being 
 quite restful. 
 
 On Thursday, Harris & self start- 
 ed out and made our purchases of 
 equipment, but did not finish. To- 
 morrow, we must try again. In the 
 afternoon, we went out to the finest 
 portion of the city, and were much 
 disappointed in finding everything in 
 a filthy condition. No care is taken 
 of streets or buildings. Everyone is 
 on a run, and scarcely turns around 
 to observe a fine building. Much 
 fever is exhibited, and interest in the 
 emigrants who purchase fire arms, 
 etc., I was delighted on Friday, when 
 Mason very unexpectedly dropped in- 
 to our rooms having arrived the night 
 before at midnight. 
 
 I had my daguerreotype taken to 
 put in a gold locket to send home to 
 my sister Elizabeth. 
 
 On Saturday, we bought the rest 
 of the articles needed for the journey. 
 I have packed them in leather cases, 
 tying the ends together, and we rolled 
 the blankets in three bundles. We 
 expect to cook out doors and sleep in 
 waggons. I have a swinging bed 
 and hope to be comfortable at night. 
 We form mess with Dr. Stone and 
 W T m. Taylor on equal shares. Taylor 
 will come up the river in a few days, 
 and soon our travels will commence 
 in real earnest,, as we have arranged 
 our watches. All is work and ex- 
 citement and proving ourselves men, 
 
 leaving family and friends to go 
 amongst the wilds. Who can tell 
 which or how many will fall by dis- 
 ease, an Indian arrow or the several 
 dangers that will beset our path, but 
 to the West we have set our faces, 
 and to the West we go. We have 
 agreed with the clerk of boat "Em- 
 bassy" to carry us to Independence 
 for Seven Dollars, each. 
 
 Sunday, April 8th. I went to 
 church and heard the Rev. Mr. Lyon 
 preach at the Westminster Church, 
 and enjoyed it very much. He is a 
 very able minister. In the afternoon, 
 we walked out to the camp of Bun- 
 combe (N. C.) boys, and on to the 
 Camp Spring (Tennessee), where we 
 found many people collected to have 
 a dance. The band was playing and 
 all was bright and gay. We watched 
 them dance one waltz and then left 
 the wretched place. St. Louis is a 
 wicked place, there appears to be no 
 control over any young man who 
 whoops and halloas on the streets on 
 Sunday to his heart's content. St. 
 Louis is increasing rapidly in popula- 
 tion and bad morals. 
 
 Monday was wet but we went on 
 board steamboat bound for St. Jos- 
 eph. The boat is new but badly man- 
 aged, the crew very unaccommodat- 
 ing, and there is much grumbling 
 amongst the passengers. It was with 
 difficulty that our luggage was put on 
 board in the hard rain. 
 
 Left St. Louis about sunset and 
 passed up the river about twenty 
 miles where we land to await day- 
 light, when we again go slowly up 
 the river. The boat is crowded 
 with emigrants, which makes it very 
 unpleasant. All are looking into the 
 future, and many are thinking of the 
 great hardships to be endured to- 
 gether. 
 
 The next morning, Tuesday, many 
 complain of sickness and giddiness. 
 Cholera has broken out and has 
 cauesd great excitement. There were 
 two cases, one being very ill, and on 
 Thursday, one young man of the Vir- 
 ginia Company died. So full of 
 
nf a 
 
 in 
 
 bright hopes never to be realized, but 
 buried. At dark, we stopped at a 
 wood yard to bury the dead. A beau- 
 tiful green spot high on the hill be- 
 tween two small budding trees, was 
 selected to bury the poor fellow. 
 Amongst strangers he died, and in a 
 strange country we buried him. 
 Quite a gloom was cast over us as 
 the funeral services of the Episcopal 
 Church were read. As we hear the 
 impressive words, greatly are we im- 
 pressed. 
 
 Friday morning, we passed Jeffer- 
 son City, the capital of Missouri. It 
 has not a thriving appearance, al- 
 though a very westerly town. 
 Neither is it as large as I anticipated. 
 The Capitol stands on an eminence 
 near the river's edge and is a very fine 
 building. Being built of stone with 
 single palisades, it has more the ap- 
 pearance of strength and durability, 
 rather than beauty. We also passed 
 Boonville, the intermediate point of 
 the land route to Independence. 
 
 The sick seem better and the ex- 
 citement and dread of cholera is sub- 
 siding. 
 
 The nights are cool, and on Friday 
 night it was very cold. In the morn- 
 ing, all on board were complaining of 
 bad colds. In the midst of com- 
 plaints, arose cries of alarm of fire. 
 The stove which was red hot and 
 heating to its utmost, fell over, and 
 the men with great presence of mind 
 threw water and wet blankets on it 
 and thus extinguished the fire and 
 saved the boat. I am not very well. 
 
 On Saturday afternoon, the piston 
 of the engine broke, which caused 
 a delay for repairs of three hours. 
 
 Sunday, April i5th. Just one 
 month since I left home, and how 
 many things have I seen, how many 
 strange faces, and how my thoughts 
 wander back to home and all that the 
 word means so much that is dear. 
 Alas ! my face is turned to the West, 
 and Fate, sad Fate pushes me along, 
 almost imperceptibly, to wealth or an 
 untimely death among strangers, and 
 perhaps an inveterate foe in the per- 
 
 son of an Indian. How thankful 
 should we be that Providence has 
 allowed us to live this long. An un- 
 profitable life it has been, but we can 
 turn to His holy word and find peace 
 for the troubled soul. Many passen- 
 gers forget the beautiful Sabbath and 
 are drinking with noise as if they 
 were not accountable beings. We 
 passed a beautiful prairie this morn- 
 ing, which was dotted here and there 
 with a little white shanty, the home of 
 a western pioneer. 
 
 On Monday, we went at a good 
 rate and passed a small town named 
 Brownsville. Tuesday, we arrived 
 at Independence, landing in the morn- 
 ing, and we were the whole day in 
 getting out our goods, and making 
 camp on the brink of the river. Cook- 
 ing supper seemed quite a difficult 
 matter and night found us very tired. 
 I spent a very uncomfortable night, 
 but one watch was kept as thieves are 
 the only expected visitors. 
 
 On Wednesday, we moved our 
 camp one-half a mile beyond town by 
 the Santa Fe road. Our waggons 
 looked very trim and the mules in 
 fine condition. My horse has been 
 feeling fine for the long rest. I went 
 into Independence in the afternoon 
 and found it a great place of business. 
 It is the trading-place of the Mexi- 
 cans and hunters, who meet here 
 every Spring and exchange their 
 wares, and purchase goods. The 
 town is full of waggon shops and 
 from these is done a great business, 
 and I am told much money is made. 
 The town has a population of fifteen 
 hundred people. Independence is to 
 be our starting point and we will 
 spend a week in preparing to make 
 our journey. We formed our com- 
 pany and framed our Constitution. 
 Stone, Taylor. Harris and myself 
 agreed to furnish Atkinson with an 
 outfit. We bought eight mules at 
 Sixty Dollars each and were much 
 pleased with our bargain. The mules 
 were broke to harness every day, 
 affording us much amusement as on- 
 lookers. They are very stubborn 
 
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 to it}? farifir 
 
 and it seems a question which two 
 would pull together. Finally they 
 mate, but not so the four. Each 
 waggon is drawn b'y four mules. The 
 forward ones kick the back couple 
 and cause great commotion. This 
 delay is annoying. 
 
 The waggons have been overhauled 
 and flour bought and packed. We 
 await here until Wednesday. 
 
 May 2nd. All was in readiness to 
 start. I rode my horse most of the 
 day, but took my turn at the four-in- 
 hand late in the afternoon, driving six 
 miles to Rice's where corn was 
 bought. It is a most beautiful and 
 fertile country. For miles around as 
 far as the eye can reach over the 
 plains, is a waving mass of green, dot- 
 ted here and there with ploughed 
 fields and cottages, a beautiful sight 
 for man to behold. 
 
 We remained in our comfortable 
 camp all day Thursday, doing little 
 jobs and quite enjoying the camp life. 
 We take turns in caring for the stock 
 and cooking, and at night each unroll 
 their blankets, the waggons are placed 
 on each side of the fire, and the mules 
 are tied together, three feet apart. 
 Only one man keeps a four-hour 
 watch during the night. 
 
 We expected to start on Friday, 
 but awoke to find our camp almost 
 deluged in water by the night's rain. 
 The rain continued and rendered the 
 cooking of breakfast and duties most 
 difficult and disagreeable. 
 
 We settled with the Treasurer, and 
 found that each man's share is 
 $186.66, the whole outfit costing 
 $1 1 20.00. 
 
 On Saturday, I went with Taylor 
 to town and bought several things. 
 Received several letters, one from 
 James Potter, of Penna. I became 
 very unwell, caused from eating a 
 very hearty dinner in town. The 
 premonitory symptoms of cholera 
 made their appearance, so Dr. Stone 
 gave me a great quantity of lauda- 
 num, but without good results. 
 
 I felt better on Monday, but much 
 alarmed, as there have been six 
 
 deaths in surrounding camps from 
 cholera. The dread disease has 
 surely taken a lodgment, and all 
 thoughts are turned to checking it in 
 camps. 
 
 The next day I felt better, so we 
 broke camp and drove three miles, 
 where we waited until Taylor drove 
 up with the other waggons. I am 
 unable to do anything, but the Doc- 
 tor thinks I will get well with due 
 care, but I feel very weak. 
 
 When Taylor came, we drove three 
 miles to a beautiful spring where we 
 -set camp, and we remained until all 
 was ready to start. These many de- 
 lays are annoying. 
 
 On Friday, May loth, we struck 
 camp and drove three miles to Little 
 Blue, where we again sat down to 
 wait until Saturday for Means and 
 Wilson. I rode about two miles. I 
 bought a Comanche pony for $60.00 
 in order that one might ride her. 
 
 On Saturday, Taylor and Harris 
 went to Independence in the morning 
 to purchase articles and get our let- 
 ters, as this was the last chance of 
 receiving any until we reach the mine. 
 I sent by Taylor many letters, and he 
 returned in the evening with a num- 
 ber from home. 
 
 The Buncome Co., the Carson Co. 
 and the Wilson Co. passed this even- 
 ing, and we followed them in the 
 early morning. 
 
 Sunday, May I2th. We rose very 
 early this morning and found Taylor 
 very sick. We regret breaking camp 
 and following train, while Taylor is 
 in this condition. Reynolds, of Bun- 
 combe was also taken ill with cholera, 
 and we fear he is very ill. 
 
 Tuesday, May I4th. We made an 
 early start in a very heavy rainstorm, 
 and when out a mile, the tongue of 
 my waggon was broken through by 
 the stubbornest of the mules, and we 
 were compelled to unhitch and make 
 a new tongue, but caught up with the 
 camp at night. Taylor is very ill 
 with the cholera. I began to feel 
 very unwell in the evening so Sun- 
 day we remained in camp as so many 
 
a 
 
 in 
 
 were ill. The Kentucky Company 
 joined us. 
 
 Wednesday, May i6th we crossed 
 the line of the U. States. We drove 
 12 miles to a very good camp and 
 were joined by Schaffer of North 
 Carolina. We passed a new made 
 grave of an emigrant. The country 
 is beautiful and green. 
 
 By Thursday we passed the Pio- 
 neer line but at dinner they passed us. 
 One of the mules got loose and I had 
 a fine ride in catching him. We 
 drove to the forks of the road (one 
 goes to Santa Fe and the other 
 [right] to Oregon). We camped 
 near an Indian hut which had been 
 deserted in consequence of cholera 
 breaking out in emigrant camps near 
 by. We are all feeling better. 
 
 On Friday I stood guard for the 
 first time, on the last watch, but did 
 not see anything to shoot. Started 
 early, and drove 10 miles to a ford 
 of Bule Creek where we stopped 
 three hours to grass our mules, and 
 then driving several miles where we 
 camped for the night. 
 
 On Saturday an axle tree of one of 
 the Kentucky waggons broke and 
 we were compelled to stop until noon 
 when we drove i mile, crossing a 
 creek, and here we stopped being de- 
 tained a length of time in assisting 
 each waggon up the steep bank, by 
 taking two front mules and hitching 
 on to mules of waggon behind. We 
 baked bread for Sunday. 
 
 Although our men are opposed to 
 travelling on the Sabbath, yet, we 
 cannot be left behind the train. At 
 noon we started in a very hard rain 
 and a terrible gale of wind, which wet 
 all of us. Dr. Stone was taken very 
 ill and I was awakened to attend him 
 and I gave him morphine and ippe- 
 cac, and he became much better. 
 
 On Monday we had a late start 
 and in consequence travelled only 8 
 miles. Finding water in the broad 
 plain where we stopped until eight 
 o'clock having had a hard rain and 
 later going a few miles before mak- 
 
 ing camp for the night. I had felt 
 very sick but was better at noon. 
 
 The next day we drove 10 miles to 
 the crossing of the Kansas River, 
 where we were compelled to camp in 
 order to carry the whole train over 
 in one day and be together. 
 
 On Wednesday we ferried the Kan- 
 sas River, (called by the Indians,. 
 Kan) in three hours. I swam my 
 mule and led two others rendering it 
 very unsafe. Camped 2 miles from 
 the river passing the line of Turner 
 and Allan. Many Indians came into 
 the camp and wanted to trade for 
 liquor. A man named Faltsby of 
 Xew York came into camp and was 
 taken in by Col. Wilson's mess. Rob- 
 ert and Clayton Reeves with their 
 sister came into camp after we 
 crossed the Kansas. There are but 
 few women travelling. 
 
 On Thursday the 24th, we left 
 camp at 7 o'clock and drove 18 miles 
 to Manacursa Creek where v j 
 camped. The rain came down in 
 torrents and our tents had 4 inches 
 of water running through them. 
 Wood from Buncombe is ill with 
 symptoms of Cholera. The day and 
 night were the most disagreeable 
 since we left home. 
 
 On Friday after driving several 
 miles we were detained to dig a road 
 at either side of the bank of a creek. 
 
 Saturday we broke camp early and 
 drove to a creek which was very high 
 and we were obliged to build a raft 
 to cross, which was not finished until 
 dark. H. A. Wood died of Cholera, 
 tonight, after two days illness. It 
 cast a gloom over the whole Com- 
 pany, as he was liked by all. We 
 buried him and marked his grave. 
 
 Sunday. 2~th. We were very busy 
 fixing our raft to cross the creek, and 
 only crossed in the evening and 
 camped on the other side one mile 
 from the creek. 
 
 But early Monday morning we 
 made a start and drove ten miles 
 when one of the Kentucky waggons 
 broke down. Five of our men were 
 
ArmBH tlj? plains 10 11}? fforifir 
 
 taken ill with cholera and everything 
 seems sad ; misfortune hangs over us. 
 
 Tuesday the sick seemed better 
 and we drove 18 miles without acci- 
 dent, and on Wednesday 20 miles on 
 good roads. 
 
 Thursday we left camp at an early 
 hour, but were detained a short time 
 as a Kentucky waggon broke down 
 again, and the rain came down in tor- 
 rents, wetting us. Ten men are sick 
 with the cholera, and I was quite un- 
 well, being attacked with diarrhea 
 suddenly. I swallowed 100 drops of 
 laudanum in hopes of a cure. 
 
 Friday being a very wet day and 
 exceedingly disagreeable we remained 
 in camp to care for our sick, and give 
 the mules a rest. The sick seem bet- 
 ter but very ill. 
 
 Saturday, June 2nd. Part of our 
 company went out to hunt a bear 
 which had been seen near camp. 
 About noon Morris Jackson of Sid- 
 ney, Ohio, came into camp and told 
 me (after having made himself 
 known) that two of the Bushes, and 
 Dr. Drum, of Shelby Co. Ohio, were 
 with him so I immediately got my 
 horse and rode over to the train, and 
 found them. I had a most delightful 
 afternoon conversing about Sidney 
 and my old friends. We drove 
 , another mile to good grass and water. 
 
 Early Sunday morning, Capt. 
 Lloyd, Ball and Locket of the Ken- 
 tucky Company left us and returned 
 home. This we regretted, but they 
 decided part on account of so much 
 sickness and the disagreeable weather. 
 We left camp early and drove 12 
 miles through a very level country, 
 with very little grass and no running 
 water. 
 
 Near one of the ponds I found iron 
 ore but of an inferior quality. It has 
 the appearance of being magnetite. 
 Drove 8 miles when the axle of the 
 Kentucky waggon broke, and we 
 camped for the night without wood 
 or water. 
 
 On Monday, the 4th, we left camp 
 at 7 o'clock, and drove about 16 miles 
 to a creek where we stopped to feed 
 
 the mules. One of our waggons 
 went on and had nothing for the men 
 to eat. 
 
 Started at 5 o'clock and drove 16 
 miles to a creek. The land has the 
 appearance of gold formation. 
 
 On Wednesday we broke camp 
 early and drove about 12 miles to 
 some grass, passing one small wag- 
 gon which had gone ahead yesterday. 
 After a rest we again started, driving 
 8 miles before we found good water. 
 Camped on the banks of Blue Earth 
 river where we were detained by rain, 
 the showers being the hardest we 
 have experienced. We camped near 
 three ox trains, in one of which 
 was Dr. Walker, the Messrs. Reeves 
 forming part of their Company. 
 
 On Thursday and Friday we rose 
 very early, driving 15 miles one day, 
 and 12 miles the next. We met about 
 200 Indians of the Sioux Cheyenne 
 tribe, who were in pursuit of Pawnees 
 that we had met on the preceding day. 
 The Pawnees had stolen some of their 
 mules and horses, and they were 
 gieatly exasperated. 
 
 We made exchange of blankets 
 and moccasins and saviets with them. 
 I gave a saddle blanket for a Spanish 
 style of saddle. We doubled our 
 guard after their departure fearing a 
 return of our seeming friends. The 
 Country is not very fertile, neither is 
 it well watered or timbered. Some 
 of our Company saw 3 elks this morn- 
 ing. We drove 13 miles in the after- 
 noon to the banks of the Platte. I 
 went out 3 or 4 miles from the road 
 today to kill antelope but did not suc- 
 ceed. I crawled near and just as I 
 was in the act of shooting, it became 
 alarmed and ran directly from me. 
 In crawling I lost my Colt revolving 
 pistol and did not discover the loss 
 until I was 2 miles distant, and the 
 circuitous route which I crawled de- 
 termined me to pursue my course 
 towards the waggons. 
 
 Saturday, June 9th. We left camp 
 at 6 o'clock and drove on the river 
 bank to Fort Kearney, a distance of 
 15 miles where we camped near the 
 
0f a d>0l& ISwker in "Sfartg-nm? 
 
 river and spent the afternoon in writ- 
 ing letters to John Potter, of Potters 
 Mills, Penna., and to Father. 
 
 Fort Kearney is still in an unfin- 
 ished state, building since last fall. 
 The huts are built of turf and the 
 walls are about 2 feet thick. There 
 is only one frame house, which is 
 used as the Company's store. Col. 
 Bonnville is the Commander of the 
 Fort and Major Chilton next officer 
 in command. 
 
 On Sunday the loth, in the morn- 
 ing we held a meeting of the Com- 
 pany and determined to rest all power 
 and authority in one man. A com- 
 mittee of three was appointed to draft 
 regulations for the government of the 
 party. They reported, and after read- 
 ing, were adopted, with a few amend- 
 ments. An election was held, Col. 
 Wilson was elected by a vote of 24 to 
 
 17- 
 
 At 7 o'clock we started and drove 
 15 miles to a fine level place near the 
 banks of the river. We found the 
 wild cactus. The road lay in the be I 
 of the river and it was very nice. 
 
 On Monday we drove 15 miles to a 
 fine camping ground on the river 
 bank. Saw a large train on the 
 Xorth side of the river, by the Coun- 
 cil Bluff road. 
 
 Tuesday we made 2 miles on an ex- 
 cellent road there being scarcely a hill 
 all the distance. On the left there 
 was a range of hills extending par- 
 allel with the road, while to our right 
 lay the river in its greatest width, 
 dotted here and there with an island. 
 The river is very high, yet shallow 
 enough for our mules to ford. 
 
 Wednesday we left camp at a late 
 hour, owing to our disagreeable situ- 
 ation. About dusk a rain and wind 
 storm, a perfect hurricane, came up 
 and came near overturning our tents. 
 The rain was blown in our provision 
 waggon, and wet the flour and sugar. 
 The general feature of the country 
 is about the same except the hills on 
 our left present a rugged and broken 
 appearance. 
 
 \Ye have overtaken the Pioneer 
 Line, owned by Turner and Allan, of 
 St. Louis, which is progressing 
 slowly. 
 
 Thursday we started at 6 o'clock, 
 driving 15 miles for grass on the bank 
 of the Platte. We did not follow 
 the road but drove through the grass, 
 it being easier on our mules. The 
 hills to our left were much higher 
 than the day before, and the river nar- 
 rower. For the first time we found 
 wood on this side of the river, princi- 
 pally cotton wood. We passed the 
 Pioneer Line, and if nothing happens 
 will keep in advance. 
 
 From a person returning to the 
 States we learned there was much 
 suffering, in the trains ahead of us, 
 mules and oxen were giving out, on 
 account of the insufficient grass. 
 
 We were 430 miles from Independ- 
 ence. We drove 8 miles further to 
 wood and water. 
 
 Friday we left camp early driving 
 17 miles before noon, stopping here 
 until 4 o'clock, then started again 
 and drove 7 miles to fine water. 
 Xear the hill on our left we saw the 
 first Buffalo. Chase was immediately 
 given by our men who succeeded in 
 killing one after an hour's chase. 
 While they were dividing that one a 
 large drove came in sight, and the ex- 
 citing sport was again resumed, with 
 more success, killing six of the finest. 
 Then drove the herd toward the train 
 of the Pioneers who killed a number. 
 I was not engaged in this as I loaned 
 my Comanche to Taylor who did 
 splendid, considering he was an inex- 
 perienced hunter. 
 
 Saturday, i6th. Left camp late and 
 drove 4 miles to the crossing of the 
 Platte River, where we were detained 
 some hours in crossing. The river 
 at this place is about i and l /4 miles 
 wide, and quite shallow with the ex- 
 ception of one or two places, where 
 the water ran into the waggon. It 
 was with the greatest difficulty we 
 crossed, the sand being cut in deep 
 gulleys, causing the mules to sink and 
 fall. The sand filled up the waggon 
 
I0urmij Ami*** 
 
 hubs, thereby locking the wheels. Dr. 
 Stone killed a. fine Buffalo before the 
 waggons crossed and we had deli- 
 cious steak for supper, which was 
 equal to any veal I ever eat. 
 
 We found three fresh graves of 
 emigrants who died of the cholera. 
 We camped in fine grass about 2 
 miles from the crossing, making only 
 6 miles that day. 
 
 The Messrs. Reeves again over 
 took us and camped near. They are 
 travelling in an ox train and will 
 reach California as soon as if we do 
 riot abandon stopping so often. 
 
 Sunday, the i/th. This was a most 
 beautiful day and we were delighted 
 to hear we were to remain all day in 
 camp. I devoted the day to reading 
 and sleeping, the latter I enjoyed 
 very much. Some of the Kentucky 
 boys violated the Sabbath by taking 
 a Buffalo hunt. The Buffaloes 
 seemed to be very tame, and are graz- 
 ing quietly on our right when we are 
 willing to let them remain, while a 
 few on our left claim our attention. 
 
 There are no less than 5 ox trains 
 in view, all resting on the Lord's Day ; 
 five of the Company are busy wash- 
 ing, but that task I was so fortunate 
 to perform yesterday. 
 
 Monday we made a very early start 
 and crossed the hills from the South 
 to the North fork of the Platte, where 
 we found a fine road near the highest 
 branch from the river. We contin- 
 ued along this for 18 miles stopping 
 at noon for lunch and to feed the 
 mules. We felt very refreshed after 
 a good cup of coffee. 
 
 Dr. Stone gave chase to a buffalo 
 and came across a very large wolf 
 which I killed . off of my Comanche 
 mare while riding without saddle or 
 bridle, and it was this that induced 
 me to return to the waggon road, but 
 found that they were 3 miles in ad- 
 vance of me. The Valley is quite 
 warm, but no wood or water is to be 
 found. It is shut in by the hills pro- 
 jecting to the banks of the river so 
 we were compelled to take to the hills 
 
 ains tn % fanftr 
 
 on which we travel many miles and 
 pitch camp at darkness, by a dirty 
 pond. 
 
 On Tuesday we drove 8 miles and 
 descended from the high hills to the 
 narrow but fertile valley of the river, 
 travelling 12 miles. Immediately in 
 advance of us about 2 miles we struck 
 the Valley. There were two Indian 
 wigwams which we visited and found 
 three Indians lying dead in one tent, 
 and one in the other. The latter ap- 
 peared to be the chief and was laid 
 out with all his costume. His horse 
 lay dead at the entrance of the wig- 
 wam. No violence was visible and 
 we concluded all had died of cholera, 
 which has been raging with great 
 fatality among the Indian tribes. As 
 we are in the country of the Sioux 
 tribes, it is reasonable to presume that 
 they belonged to that nation. 
 
 A fearful tempest rose in the even- 
 ing, and we were compelled to pitch 
 camp in a very uncomfortable place. 
 Making 15 miles. 
 
 On Wednesday morning the camp- 
 ers were thrown into great consterna- 
 tion by the discharging of a gun, as 
 we are in danger of attack from In- 
 dians, but it proved to be from a gun 
 in the hands of a Kentuckian, the load 
 taking effect in the right side of Mr. 
 Bush. At the same place Bush and 
 he had fought on the previous even- 
 ing, about a very trivial matter, and 
 after the fight was over Bush went in- 
 to the tent and kicked his opponent 
 in the mouth as he was resting on the 
 ground. The Kentuckian got up and 
 getting his gun, shot Bush, the ball 
 entered and passed through the ten- 
 don. 
 
 At a meeting of the Company it was 
 decided that the Kentuckian should be 
 driven out of the Company. Accord- 
 ingly he left after night with two 
 mules. There were a number of In- 
 dians visiting camp, with whom we 
 exchanged many articles, these we 
 needed in our travels. A few ex- 
 changes were made of horses and 
 mules to an advantage. The Indian 
 is very partial to the large American 
 
Hfommra of a (Snlft liwlm* in "3Fnrty-nme 
 
 horse and will give two ponies or 
 mules for one of that kind. 
 
 On Thursday we left camp and 
 drove 15 miles to good grass and 
 water, for noon feed. The Lime- 
 stone rock on the hills to our left have 
 a most rugged appearance, and the 
 sand is deeper. 
 
 After travelling four miles, we left 
 the river and ascended a very steep 
 hill, on which w r e travelled three miles, 
 when we descended into a deep ravine 
 where there were some fine springs, 
 and very good Buffalo grass for the 
 mules. The beautiful shade and the 
 refreshing air in this picturesque 
 place, inspired one and all with a de- 
 sire to pitch tent for the night. A 
 wish which was gratified by the ne- 
 cessity of waiting on Capt. Posey's 
 mess, who had broken an axle wheel 
 in the act of entering the ravine. 
 
 The Bushes and Jackson, of Ohio, 
 are just in our advance to-night. 
 
 Friday, we did not affect so early 
 a start as on the day before owing to 
 the broken axle being unfinished, yet 
 started at seven o'clock, and drove 
 fourteen miles to grass on the bank 
 oi the river. At this place, our mess, 
 and the mess from Rutherford 
 County. Xorth Carolina ; composed of 
 Gilky. Shoreffer, Dwitty and Craz- 
 tc n ; concluded to leave the train and 
 endeavor to travell more steadily, and 
 if possible more expeditiously than 
 we had been doing. We accordingly 
 started at three o'clock and drove six 
 miles to a small knoll, about two miles 
 in advance of Wilson's camp. 
 
 Saturday, 23rd. We made an early 
 start and drove fifteen miles to grass 
 near the river. In the afternoon we 
 travelled eight miles, about four miles 
 in advance of Wilson's train. The 
 road is good, and water abundant. 
 
 Sundav we started from camp very 
 reluctantly, as we are opposed to trav- 
 elling on this day. but having lost 
 three days this week, we felt ourselves 
 justified in moving on. We passed 
 fifteen graves to-dav of emigrants 
 who died with the Cholera, from the 
 i/th to the 23rd of last month. 
 
 We drove on a fine road to-day, 
 crossing one or two fine creeks, where 
 we supplied ourselves with water. As 
 the sun was disappearing in the west 
 we drove up to the fine spring near 
 Chimney rock, a notorious land mark, 
 and was glad to give our wearied ani- 
 mals a rest though we could not give 
 them good grass. We travelled 
 twenty-eight miles this day. The 
 Chimney rock resembles a Shot 
 Tower at a distance, but on approach- 
 ing it the Chimney form is quite per- 
 ceptible. It can be seen about thirty 
 miles, eastward, and is composed of 
 soft rock and sand which time will 
 soon destroy. The appearance of the 
 country is beautiful and the hills on 
 the left are washed into blocks, pre- 
 senting a square front, not unlike old 
 barracks of a fortress. 
 
 Monday we did not make an early 
 start, yet drove fifteen miles to grass. 
 Fourteen miles from Chimney Rock 
 the road leaves the river and emi- 
 grants should by all means provide 
 themselves with water, as they will 
 drive twenty miles before finding any 
 and then not sufficient for all pur- 
 poses. After leaving the river, the 
 road lies through one of the finest 
 valleys I ever saw and is decidedly the 
 best twenty miles of road we have 
 travelled. 
 
 By the spring at Scotts Blufif. there 
 i.-i a store and blacksmith's shop, kept 
 by Rubedere, a trader who has re- 
 sided among the Sioux Indians for 
 thirteen years. Grass is very good 
 and water excellent for present use, 
 being unfit to carry, even to Horse 
 Creek, a distance of twelve miles. 
 We travelled thirty miles and were 
 very reluctant to stop on such a fine 
 read. There were eight trains camp- 
 ing in sight of us. My mare broke 
 and ran away from me and I ran four 
 miles after her. The gun of Dwitty 
 was fastened on the saddle and just 
 as I caught her. she sprang back 
 against a bush, thereby causing the 
 gun to discharge, the contents enter- 
 ing the ground between my feet. 
 I uckilv there was no harm done, ex- 
 
3J0unt?ij Arr00a ilj? fUattts 10 ity ftanftr 
 
 cepting the excessive fatigue occa- 
 sioned me by running so hard. 
 
 Tuesday we rose at break of day 
 and ate breakfast, in order to start 
 immediately before the trains in the 
 valley. We drove fourteen miles to 
 grass west of Horse Creek, having 
 passed several trains. After taking 
 dinner, we all laid down to rest and 
 were suddenly aroused by the report 
 of a gun among us, which was quick- 
 ly followed by a shriek. We all im- 
 mediately ran to the waggon of the 
 Rutherford Mess and found to our 
 surprise, Lafayette Dwitty, rolling in 
 agony and his clothes on fire. No 
 time was lost in getting the fire extin- 
 guished and him out of the waggon, 
 when we found that eleven buckshot 
 had entered the knee, from the left 
 side of the leg. It seems that he had 
 thrown his gun into the waggon on 
 top of bedding and clothing, and his 
 Mess mate-Shaeffer, having pulled 
 his coat from under the gun, raised 
 the hammer and exploded the per- 
 cusion caps. The. muzzle of the gun 
 v\-as directly in contact with his knee, 
 hence the shot could not scatter, but 
 entered the flesh, striking the bone 
 and glancing in many directions, one 
 or two of the balls passed through 
 and two were extracted by a very 
 kind and accommodating physician, 
 from Illinois, who was nearby when 
 the accident occurred. Fears are en- 
 tertained that amputation will be nec- 
 essary, when we reach Fort Laramie. 
 
 The physician advises us to hasten 
 to the Fort and place him under the 
 care of an experienced surgeon. This 
 has cast a gloom over the whole com- 
 pany and will materially affect our 
 travell, but this we do not think of 
 compared to the extent of his agony. 
 I felt persuaded that more danger is 
 to be apprehended from the careless- 
 ness of arms among fellow emigrants, 
 than from the hostile Indian. 
 
 Wednesday, after much delay in the 
 morning, we started and drove very 
 slowly untill we travelled twenty 
 miles to good grass and water. 
 
 Dwitty suffered much from his 
 wound. 
 
 Thursday we reached Fort Lar- 
 amie, and we here determined to dis- 
 pose of our heavy waggon and attach 
 six mules to the small one, and hasten 
 on our road. 
 
 Friday we busied ourselves in con- 
 densing our load and packing in one 
 waggon, and finished at three o'clock. 
 All the trunks, part of the Bacon and 
 everything that was not absolutely 
 necessary was thrown aside. When 
 we had finished our arduous task and 
 were ready to gear our mules, our 
 surprise may be better imagined than 
 described, when an officer of the Fort, 
 stalked into camp and informed us 
 that one of our mules was under the 
 brand of the United States, and he 
 would take it as his property of the 
 same. On repairing to our mules, he 
 selected the finest mule in the gang 
 and pointed to what had escaped our 
 attention, the mark-U. S. The Quar- 
 termaster decided that the mule be- 
 longed to the United States, therefore 
 we must give it up, which we did very 
 reluctantly. The mule was bought of 
 the Government at Santa Fe last win- 
 ter and brought in this spring to Inde- 
 pendence, where we purchased her. 
 The protection afforded to emigrants 
 by the chain of Military Posts is only 
 another name for robbery. An emi- 
 grant can purchase nothing except at 
 an exorbitant price, and in the present 
 instance suffer himself to be stript 
 of his all, when far away from home. 
 Much depended on this mule and we 
 shall feel her loss greatly. In conse- 
 quence of this high handed piece of 
 villainy we struck tent and drove four 
 miles to ordinary grass. 
 
 Saturday, 3Oth. This morning 
 Hains and Stone returned to the Fort, 
 t'> have an interview with Maj. San- 
 derson relative to our mules. The 
 Major not being cognizant of yester- 
 day's transaction, we thought best to 
 make another effort. 
 
 We were not a little surprised to 
 find H. M. Atkinson of our Com- 
 pany, preparing to leave us and re- 
 
ifemmra nf a (Unto 
 
 hi "Sfartg-nm?" 
 
 turn home. Not being inclined to 
 persuade him contrary to his wishes, 
 we acquiesced and bid him farewell, 
 hoping- him a safe return to his fam- 
 ily and friends. We regretted seeing 
 him return on foot, but he did not 
 own any interest in the Company and 
 we could not spare him a mule. We 
 drove twelve miles to a spring and 
 running water, where we found grass 
 quite scarce. Again set out and drove 
 ten miles to the river bottom. When 
 we left the hills and entered the ravine 
 we found a few springs, and plenty 
 of wood in the ravine. 
 
 After dark, Hains and Stone re- 
 turned with the mule, that the gov- 
 etnment had detained. Atkinson 
 also returned, having taken a second 
 thought about the difficulties in reach- 
 ing home. 
 
 Major Sanderson, formerly of Co- 
 lumbus, Ohio, is the Commanding 
 Officer of the Fort and conducts him- 
 self with much credit. Especially in 
 this affair. He is a Gentleman in 
 every sense of the word, and will be 
 of infinite service to emigrants. 
 
 Owing to all the trains in the neigh- 
 borhood of our's leaving camp on 
 Sunday, we concluded to drive also, 
 as the Indians are on the hills nearby, 
 and will take advantage of our situa- 
 tion. They made an effort to steal 
 the mules from a train nearest ours. 
 We drove eight miles to a creek where 
 we found a good grass and we put 
 our mules out as Harris and Mason 
 concluded to return to our Mornings' 
 Camp, for our only bucket which was 
 left inadvertently, and when they re- 
 turned it was too late for us to drive 
 any distance therefore we rested the 
 ballance of the clay at this creek, with 
 only one train in sight. The sur- 
 rounding country is quite rough, the 
 hills being rocky and covered with 
 small cedars, which give them a dark 
 appearance, hence they are called 
 Black Hills. 
 
 On our left, about one mile the hills 
 are of reddish formation resembling 
 the red clay of Tennessee. 
 
 On Monday we left camp early, 
 with five Scotchmen, who came up 
 last night in one waggon. They 
 had separated from their party on 
 account of their slow driving. We 
 drove through a rather watered and 
 fertile country for fifteen miles, to 
 grass on the banks of the river. Just 
 ahead, we leave it for some time. I 
 am very unwell to-day, having symp- 
 toms of cholera. 
 
 At three o'clock we started and 
 drove eight miles to good buffaloe 
 grass, near a branch. The country 
 is more fertile than that we have been 
 passing through for the last two 
 weeks, but is more broken, presenting 
 a variableness which is quite agree- 
 able to the eye. 
 
 Early Tuesday morning we made 
 ready to leave, when we were sur- 
 prised to see a man ride into camp and 
 claim two horses, which had been 
 brought into our company the night 
 before by a young man of respectable 
 appearance, who requested permission 
 to remain. The matter was soon ex- 
 plained, it appears that a company 
 from New York had made arrange- 
 ments to pack at the Fort and in do- 
 ing so rather inconvenienced the 
 young man and he decided to take two 
 of the horses and go ahead. Only 
 one course was to be pursued, and 
 that was soon acted upon, the horses 
 handed over and the young man re- 
 turned in captivity to the fort. We 
 found the road exceedingly hilly, yet 
 perfectly smooth. Grass was re- 
 markably scarce, but water plenty, ex- 
 cepting the distance of five miles of 
 the latter part of the fifteen mile drive 
 in the forenoon. The hills are com- 
 posed of reddish clay with a slight 
 covering of white sand. Many In- 
 dians were seen near our noon camp, 
 so we deemed it prudent to guard our 
 mules. We drove eight miles to 
 Sandy creek where grass was very 
 scarce. 
 
 On Wednesday, I awoke and rose 
 early from my bed, which was noth- 
 ing more than a buffaloe robe 
 
3I0urimj Arr000 
 
 atna in ttyt partftr 
 
 stretched on the ground with the clear 
 blue sky for covering. We were 
 compelled to herd our mules on the 
 hills near by camp and being appre- 
 hensive of the Indians we concluded 
 to lay near the stock. There were 
 six trains in sight of us and all night 
 our ears were deafened by the reports 
 of guns and pistols, etc., which were 
 fired in celebration of the coming day, 
 July the Fourth. 
 
 Doctor drove, (myself waggoner 
 to-day) fourteen miles to ordinary 
 grass on the bank of the Platte. 
 
 The country presents about the 
 same appearance, no grass worth 
 mentioning, but water is abundant. 
 The road is in fine order and not so 
 hilly. After resting one and a half 
 hours, we started and drove to the 
 ferry, where we were kindly accom- 
 modated by Mr. Turner of the Pio- 
 neer Line. We had travelled twenty 
 miles. 
 
 Thursday we hitched up and drove 
 five miles on a very Sandy road, along 
 the bank of the river. Our mules 
 needed grass and we deemed it best 
 to feed them, though on poor grass. 
 After three hours feeding we drove 
 seven miles to fine grass on the river's 
 edge, where our mules fitted them- 
 selves for hard travell on the ensueing 
 day. We had gone thirteen miles. 
 
 We left camp at sun rise Friday, 
 and drove on a very hilly and sandy 
 road for ten miles, when we unhitched 
 our mules and took them to an island 
 in the river where grass was very 
 good. 
 
 The grass along the hills is parched, 
 and the soil has the appearance of 
 being very poor. There was no wood 
 on the hills and but very little near 
 the river. 
 
 I had a severe toothache which ren- 
 dered me miserable in the extreme. 
 We drove after dinner five miles to 
 a trading waggon, where we stopped, 
 in order to trade, and then drove the 
 mules to grass, off the road north 
 two miles, where we intend to keep 
 them untill one o'clock in the morning 
 and then start on our way. 
 
 Saturday, 7th. Early this morning 
 we were roused from our sleep by the 
 guard bringing in the mules and soon 
 we had eaten the cold piece of meat 
 made ready for us by the cook and 
 were off on the road for the hard 
 travell before us. 
 
 I drove about seven miles when the 
 pain in my head was so severe that I 
 gave the lines to Mason and crawled 
 in the waggon, suffering the greatest 
 agony all the time. No stop of con- 
 sequence was made at noon as there 
 was no water and little grass. After 
 leaving the river, we found on the 
 ridge, about two miles, a fine pond of 
 water and another about four miles, 
 which is not impregnated with alkali. 
 About five o'clock we reached the 
 Alkali SprinTS, where we camped for 
 the night. The grass is good from 
 the road and the water tastes like 
 Seidlitz Powder, more than any thing 
 I know of. No injurious effect re- 
 sulted from the use of the water, with 
 either ourselves or with the mules. 
 We travelled twenty miles. 
 
 Sunday morning we concluded to 
 move onward untill we reached good 
 grass and water, as our stock was suf- 
 fering for both. 
 
 The ox trains that have preceeded 
 us have lost many oxen from the use 
 of this water and I fear many will not 
 profit by the example. We drove 
 four miles to Willow Springs, where 
 there is plenty of water, but no grass 
 and the many dead oxen lying near 
 the water induced us to continue our 
 journey untill the great desirable is 
 found. There is a fine spring two 
 miles from the Willow Spring but we 
 missed it and drove four miles to the 
 foot of a hill where we struck the 
 sma 1 ! creek, which has been trickling 
 down the swamp to our left for six 
 mi!es. The water is net good, nor is 
 the grass, but our mules need grass 
 so much, that we were compelled to 
 turn them out and let them pick all 
 they can. 
 
 The wind blew a perfect tempest 
 and nothing is so disagreeable to the 
 
nf a (into &??k?r in "3farty-mur 
 
 traveller than to have sand blown in 
 his eyes all day. 
 
 In the afternoon we drove five 
 miles, crossing Greasy Creek and 
 turning down it untill we found good 
 grass. The excellent grass is a great 
 treat to the mules and by feeding will 
 much improve their condition. I en- 
 joyed a bath in the river finely in the 
 evening. The valley is remarkably 
 beautiful and quite a preceptible dif- 
 ference greets the eye in the feature 
 of the whole country. 
 
 On Monday the luxuriant grass 
 near by camp induced us to let our 
 mules feed untill nine o'clock when 
 we gathered up and directed our 
 course to the road, leaving the blu!T 
 to our left. 
 
 To our left about one hundred 
 yards, there was a lake of Alkali, 
 which had nearly dried up and Sal- 
 uratis was lying in abundance in the 
 bottom. 
 
 After driving about eight miles we 
 reached the notable Independence 
 Rock, on the bank of Sweet Water 
 River. There is nothing remarkable 
 about the rock except its position, 
 which is at the opening of a valley. 
 1 he rock is about half a mile long, by 
 one fourth mile wide, and is com- 
 posed of sandstone mixed with small 
 pieces of granite and flint. Many 
 crevices are near the summit and 
 nearest the river there is quite a de- 
 pression, in the summit, resembling a 
 saddle. It does not present the rug- 
 ged appearance that is characteristic 
 of the mountains, to the east. The 
 plain is wide and beautiful in the ex- 
 treme, while to the west the valley is 
 quite narrow, in the middle of which 
 winds the gentle stream. Sweet Water 
 River. About the rock are many 
 camps, among which I noticed two 
 Government Trains. Near the rock 
 the road crosses the river and ascends 
 the hill to the left, on which you 
 travell for five miles, in order to miss 
 the Devils Gate, a narrow place in the 
 Rocky Mountains, through which the 
 River has forced itself. We drove 
 about two miles beyond the gate to 
 
 very good grass on the bank of the 
 River. Well do the mountains de- 
 serve the name of Rocky, as there is 
 to all appearance no earth among the 
 rock, yet the eye is greeted occasion- 
 ally with a green bush growing in the 
 crevice of the rock. So far the 
 mountains are not high but quite 
 steep. 
 
 Tuesday we left camp early and 
 drove to ordinary grass on the hilb. 
 We travelled twelve miles along the 
 creek, when we left it and took to the 
 hills, the roads sandy and heavy. A 
 short distance from the creek on the 
 hills there is a small lake, dry, the 
 bottom of which is covered with Sal- 
 uratis. 
 
 We overtook Mr. Briddleman of 
 Sulivan County, E. Tennessee, who 
 left the states a few days before we 
 did. After resting two hours at noo.-. 
 we hitched up and travelled about six 
 miles on a very deep and sandy road, 
 having crossed the creek only once. 
 The grass to the left of the road three 
 miles, is excellent and not bad grass 
 on the creek. We passed many dead 
 oxen on the road, the stench from 
 which perfumes the air for a great 
 distance. 
 
 I left the road and rode two miles 
 to the right, untill I struck the Sweet 
 Water River, continueing down the 
 same about one mile I reached a camp 
 of two waggons, which I found were 
 from Tennessee. One of the men 
 was from Ash County, North Car. - 
 lina. and acquainted with many of my 
 friends, the others were from Hawk- 
 ins and Sulivan Counties, of East 
 Tennessee. They were rejoiced to 
 hear from me that our mess was from 
 the neighboring counties. A black 
 man, belonging to Kincade is very 
 sick with the cholera and will in all 
 probability die very soon. 
 
 We made eighteen miles (hiring 
 the day. 
 
 Wednesday morning we did not 
 start so early as usual in consequence 
 of the intention of our company to 
 drive only eighteen mik-> this day. 
 We drove ten miles when we stopped 
 
Arrnss 
 
 atttH tn tfo |Jariftr 
 
 and crossed the river to good grass, 
 where we remained four hours. Again 
 we set out and crossing the river five 
 times, we drove eight miles to the 
 banks of the river, and at the foot of 
 the hill, where the road leaves the 
 river for sixteen miles. The grass 
 had been good, but was eaten short, 
 therefore we drove the mules down 
 the river about one mile where we 
 found fine grass. About seven miles 
 back and near where we struck the 
 river we passed through the narrow- 
 est place on the road. It is about 
 fifty yards wide, for one hundred 
 vards, then gradually widening untill 
 it opens into a wide plain. 
 
 The rocky cliffs continued on our 
 right and left, throughout the day's 
 distance. Made our eighteen miles 
 that day. 
 
 Thursday, the last watch was mine, 
 and I awoke the camp at three o'clock, 
 in order to make an early start, as we 
 had sixteen miles to make before with- 
 out wood or water. We started at 
 sun rise and drove twelve miles to 
 some water to the left of the road 
 about one half a mile. We found 
 poor grass, no grass of consequence 
 is to be found any where near the 
 road. The road is sandy for a short 
 distance, but generally is very firm 
 and even. 
 
 After feeding three hours we 
 geared up and drove four miles, 
 where we descended from the hills to 
 the river and crossing a deep ford. 
 All the grass has been eaten short, 
 and so many dead oxen near by in- 
 duced us to climb a very long hill and 
 again descend a steep rough side, to 
 the river, making about four miles 
 from the last ford to where we again 
 meet the river. 
 
 Grass is excellent, but wood scarce. 
 In the morning the snow capped 
 mountains in the far distance, pre- 
 sented themselves to our view, and 
 this is the first time we have ever seen 
 snow in the month of July. 
 
 The mules did not like the grass 
 we found on Thursday, so on Friday 
 we did not think it necessary to re- 
 
 main longer than sun-rise when we 
 started and drove sixteen miles to 
 very good grass, on the Strawberry 
 Creek. There were fourteen Comf.a- 
 nies camped in the valley that even- 
 ing. 
 
 Saturday, I4th. The grass being so 
 good we concluded to remain untill 
 noon and let our mules eat to their 
 hearts content. While they were Bat- 
 ing, the waggon of Steele and Co., 
 was being unloaded and fixed. Haines 
 is very unwell to-day, so much so 
 that he took a dose of Calomel. 
 At twelve o'clock we hitched up 
 and drove sixteen miles to the Pacific 
 Springs on the west side of the noto- 
 rious South Pass. When we left 
 Strawberry Creek, we ascended a 
 long hill and continued along the sum- 
 mit for three or four miles, when we 
 descended to the Sweet Water River, 
 where we found snow in piles along 
 the side of the hill. At this place we 
 again ascended a long hill, continuing 
 to ascend a gradual slope for ten 
 miles, when we reached the Summit 
 of the South Pass. The road is one 
 of the best we have had, only equaled 
 by the piece from the Platte River to 
 the Chimney Rock. In the distance 
 can be seen mountains, facing us, and 
 one" is led to wonder how he will get 
 through their passes if not assured 
 he may think he must of necessity 
 climb some of them. From the sum- 
 mit to the Spring (distance, three 
 miles) the road is sandy, of white 
 sand. The Pacific Spring is very 
 large and rises near a, hill and waters 
 a low piece of land near by which is 
 very marshy. The water is as cold 
 as ice, and clear as crystal. We trav- 
 elled nineteen miles. 
 
 Sunday we remained at the Springs 
 in order to feed our mules, and rest 
 Haines, who was quite sick that morn- 
 ing. He was salivated and in any 
 thing but a pleasant situation to be 
 travelling. 
 
 I went out to watch the mules, three 
 miles distant, and lay down and slept 
 in the boiling sun for two hours, the 
 balance of the day I spent in reading 
 
of a dfoUt 
 
 in 
 
 a "tract," and the works of Tom 
 Moore. 
 
 In the evening I returned to the 
 camp and was rejoiced to find Haines 
 much better, yet not able to ride in the 
 waggon as usual, therefore Dr. Stone 
 and myself, made him a swinging bed 
 by which he will be enabled to ride 
 with a degree of ease. 
 
 Early Monday morning we brought 
 our mules from grass and made ready 
 to travell, in order to get ahead of the 
 many Companies which camped near 
 us, but it availed little as some of the 
 ox trains were moving before us. 
 We drove nine miles when we reached 
 a small creek, the waters of which are 
 strongly impregnated with Alkali, and 
 is quite dangerous to give cattle. 
 
 We drove three miles, when we 
 stopped and fed our mules on very 
 ordinary grass. Rested about three 
 hours and again drove ten miles to the 
 west bank of Little Sandy, where we 
 found many Companies in camp. 
 Grass was very good about three 
 miles from the ford. Haines was 
 much better. Drove twenty three 
 miles. 
 
 We rose late on Tuesday morning 
 and drove six miles to Big Sandy, 
 where we camped untill four o'clock 
 P. M. in order to feed the mules well, 
 before travelling what is called the 
 "Stretch," a distance of thirty five 
 miles, without water or grass. 
 
 I met two persons in an Ohio train 
 from Franklin County, Pennsylvania, 
 named Price and Kilgo. They were 
 acquainted with Genl. Deems and 
 family of Elizabethtown, East Ten- 
 nessee, and made many inquiries re- 
 specting the family. Also met a man 
 and lady from Williamsporte, Penna., 
 named Brown, who appeared much 
 pleased to see me, as I was from Cen- 
 tre County, since them, and therefore 
 enabled to give some "news" of their 
 friends and acquaintances. They 
 also told me of the whereabouts of 
 Major Robt. Beck, and the Messrs. 
 Hustens, who were en route for Cali- 
 fornia. 
 
 We left the bank of Sandys at four 
 o'clock and drove a steady but brisk 
 gate for twenty miles, when we halted 
 a few minutes, again resuming our 
 march we travelled about five miles 
 when we met a regular of the U. S., 
 returning from Green River, who re- 
 ported that the river was twenty 
 eight miles distant, instead of ten as 
 we thought, relying upon "Weir" as 
 guide, who we find very incorrect. 
 Having travelled untill daylight we 
 lay by for three hours in the fourth 
 long hollow we found on the road and 
 which we thought to be thirty five 
 miles from Sandy. Again we set out 
 and travelling over very rough road, 
 we reach the third ferry on the river, 
 in about seventeen miles, making the 
 "Stretch" in fifty two miles. The 
 ferry where the road first finds the 
 river is not a good one and Dr. Stone 
 and I rode down to a more conven- 
 ient one about three miles from the 
 one lower down and the one used by 
 the Government. We drove down a 
 very steep decline to the river's edge, 
 where we pitched camp and swam our 
 mules across to fine grass, about five 
 miles from the ferry. Many wag- 
 gons were on the bank waiting their 
 turn to cross and we did not expect 
 to cross untill the following clay as 
 there were forty two before us. 
 
 On Friday morning while lying in 
 the grass near the mules. Mason 
 called and when he came up he gave 
 us the cheering news that our wag- 
 gon was across the river and we could 
 drive off immediately. We therefore 
 drove in our mules and soon were 
 hitched and on the road, though not 
 untill six or seven ox trains were be- 
 fore us. The road lay down the river 
 for three miles when it diverges to 
 the right and ascends a very steep 
 hill. From one to two miles we were 
 crossing deep Sandy hills, when we 
 met the road from the lower ferry, 
 coursing toward the hills about two 
 miles distant. The hill was very 
 steep and sandy. So much so that it 
 was with difficulty we reached the 
 summit. For several miles we om- 
 
Arrnua ilj? plains ia ilj? 
 
 tinned to cross steep hills untill we 
 descended to a fine creek, up which 
 we travelled four miles, where we 
 found grass very good, near the bank 
 of the creek. Many camps are in the 
 valley and while on guard I thought 
 the fires quite cheerful to a shivering 
 watch-man. That evening Dr. Stone 
 and myself called on 'Miss Elizabeth 
 White, of Pleasant Hill, Van Buren 
 County, Mo., but formerly of Suli- 
 van Co., E. Tennessee. Her parents 
 are emigrating at an advanced age 
 with her quite young. She is quite 
 pretty and very agreeable and inter- 
 esting young lady. It afforded me 
 much pleasure to meet her and 
 equally as much pain to leave the 
 train she is travelling in. 
 
 Friday we brought in the mules at 
 an early hour and soon were ready to 
 travel when we found ourselves in ad- 
 vance of all the trains in the valley. 
 We found the road very hilly, more 
 of the hills were steeper than any we 
 have had on the route. 
 
 We drove sixteen miles to the fine 
 spring on the top of a hill, where the 
 grass presented fine feeding for the 
 mules. 
 
 While we were grassing our stock, 
 several trains appeared on the hills, 
 two miles behind us, which set us to 
 work to gearing and just started 
 when Miss White acompanied by a 
 young gallant of the train rode up 
 and informed us that their train was 
 near by. 
 
 She rode along with us, entertain- 
 ing us very agreeably, for three miles, 
 when she stopped, to wait for the 
 Company. 
 
 We drove within two miles of the 
 base of the mountain, where we found 
 excellent grass and wood, but not 
 very good water. Made twenty two 
 miles 
 
 Saturday, 2ist. I rose much re- 
 freshed, after a fine sleep for one en- 
 tire night, the first I have had for five 
 nights. We did not start early as 
 usual, yet left at six o'clock and drove 
 twelve miles to the summit of the 
 dividing ridge, where we stopped to 
 
 feed. The road lay over very steep 
 hills and across the creek, known as 
 Thomas Fork, which winds through 
 a narrow but beautiful valley, covered 
 with fragrant grass. 
 
 For the first time, to-day, we have 
 had quite a pleasant shower of rain, 
 which seemed to lay the dust on the 
 road. 
 
 After crossing "Thomas Fork," 
 and ascending the very steep hill, the 
 surrounding country presented a 
 most striking contrast to the barren 
 hills we have been passing, for the last 
 two or three days. Lines of fine tim- 
 ber were stretched near shallow rav- 
 ines to our right, while the gentle un- 
 dulations of the plain covered with a 
 rich verdure rested on our left. 
 
 While resting at noon a fine shower 
 came up which added a still brighter 
 hue to the fine bed of green grass. 
 
 We started and drove ten miles to 
 the side of a hill just above a small 
 creek. The road in the afternoon 
 was decidedly the hilliest and most 
 difficult to pass that we have had, 
 since we left Independence. We 
 tried to reach the river but the bad 
 road rendered it impossible. 
 
 Sunday the insufficiency of grass at 
 our camp rendered it necessary for 
 u:- to drive to the river, where we 
 could do justice to our stock and our- 
 selves. The road winds clown a steep 
 decline for some considerable dis- 
 tance where it takes a hierh but level 
 ridge, which leads to the river. The 
 river bottom is about one half a mile 
 wide and is covered with the finest 
 of grass, consisting of Herd. Timothy 
 and Blue Grass, also wild flax is 
 found in great abundance where the 
 road first reaches the river. 
 
 In the afternoon a very hard rain 
 came over the hills, which completely 
 demolished the high grass. 
 
 Dr. Stone devoted the greater part 
 of the evening to baking Apple Pies, 
 which were a very great luxury with 
 us, on the plains. Now we can ap- 
 preciate the fine dinners set before us 
 at our homes and must acknowledge 
 
nf a 
 
 in 
 
 that we were too choice where so 
 much was to be had. Eight miles. 
 
 We set out early Monday morning 
 from our camp and drove fourteen 
 miles to the bend of the river, where 
 the -ou ! leaves it for five miles. We 
 crossed a fine large creek that morn- 
 ing five times, which is very deep. 
 The road is level and in fine order. 
 
 At our camp at noon many trains 
 were in advance of us and in sight all 
 of which we will overhaul soon. 
 
 At three o'clock we set out and 
 travelled five miles around to reach 
 the ford of the river which empties 
 into Bear, near this point. After 
 crossing, the road takes up the hill 
 and does not strike the river again 
 for five miles. In the distance there 
 are one or two bad hills, equally as 
 .^teep as any we have crossed. Also 
 a fine creek, about one mile from the 
 river, where we camped for the night. 
 The valley is small but quite beauti- 
 ful, at the head some twenty miles 
 from us there is located the largest 
 Indian village of the Sknake Tribe, 
 containing two thousand persons. 
 
 Travelled twenty miles. 
 
 We set out Tuesday morning be- 
 fore any of the trains in the valley, 
 and crossed to the river's bottom, dis- 
 tance four miles, \vhere we found ex- 
 cellent road. Passed this morning a 
 few lodges of the Sknakes', situated 
 near the margin of the river to the 
 left side of the road. Also saw three 
 traders here, one of whom has a wife 
 and children and is of the Mormon 
 faith, the other is from White City, 
 Tennessee. After driving twelve 
 miles we rested near a beautiful 
 stream of mountain water, for a few 
 hours. 
 
 Again set out and crossing a num- 
 ber of small fine watered streams, we 
 drove about ten miles to excellent 
 grass about one mile to the right of 
 the road on a fine stream. The fine 
 grass induced us to believe our mules 
 perfectly safe, without being 
 "staked," but we discovered our mis- 
 take about ten o'clock, when we were 
 aroused by the running of the whole 
 
 stock and the cries of the guard. All 
 immediately gave chase and in about 
 one and a half miles, one of the Steels 
 and myself, succeeded in out-running 
 them and turning them toward the 
 camp. I had run the whole distance 
 in my stocking feet, without hat, coat 
 or jacket and at my fastest, so when I 
 found myself ahead I was nearly 
 "done out." It was with difficulty I 
 could draw my breath, and the excru- 
 ciating pain in my breast, accompa- 
 nied by the sickness of the stomach 
 alarmed me no little, as to the results. 
 I was little fit to stand guard in a few 
 hours after returning to camp, much 
 less the part of the preceeding watch, 
 as I \vas awakened by Taylor one 
 hour before the time, through mis- 
 take. My partners did not discover 
 the mistake untill too late and the fact 
 of their doing so, very inadvertently 
 induced us to stand untill the expira- 
 tion of our regular time. 
 
 At seven o'clock Wednesday, we 
 found ourselves ready to start and 
 soon reached the road, which run up 
 the hill some distance from the river, 
 crossing many small creeks. We 
 drove twelve miles for noon feed, to 
 very ordinary grass, near or rather 
 between two small branches running 
 from the mountains to the river. 
 
 Again hitched up and drove eight 
 miles to the bank of the river about 
 one half mile east of the Steamboat 
 Spring, and next one mile from the 
 Soda or Beer Springs. I visited the 
 Soda Springs, about one mile north 
 of the road and found the water effer- 
 vescing in a hole some three feet deep 
 in a solid rock. The water tastes ex- 
 actly like Seidlitz Powder, and acts 
 with the bowels in the same way. 
 They are quite a curiosity and one 
 may consider himself well repaid for 
 the trouble of visiting them. The 
 Steamboat Spring is a few feet of the 
 river's edge, and is named from the 
 resemblance it has to the puffing of a 
 Steamboat, though to me it has the 
 resemblance more to the acting of 
 water heated in a kettle. The water 
 is quite warm and unfit for use. 
 
3fnrn?ij Armu0 
 
 Thursday we left camp quite late 
 and drove to the turn of the road to 
 Oregon via Fort Hall, where we con- 
 cluded to take a left hand trail which 
 would carry us through the moun- 
 tains to the St. Mary's river, thereby 
 cutting off many miles. 
 
 The road passed near an old crater, 
 which at once accounted for the vol- 
 canic appearance of the country 
 around us. After leaving the Ore- 
 gon road, no water is to be found on 
 the road for less than fourteen miles, 
 where there is a stream of exceeding 
 cold water, where it would be nice for 
 all emigrants to rest as fine grass is 
 on the surrounding hills. 
 
 We rested a few hours and then 
 drove four miles to a still larger 
 stream, where we found excellent 
 grass. Many Indians were in camp 
 this evening wanting to trade. Here 
 for the first time I witnessed the filthy 
 practice among them, so often men- 
 tioned by travellers, that of eating 
 their vermin. They pick them from 
 their heads and cooly thrust them in- 
 to their mouths ; after witnessing this 
 I could not speak or suffer them to 
 approach me. 
 
 We set out early Friday and drove 
 twelve miles before noon to a fine 
 branch, about three miles from camp 
 we struck the creek we camped on, 
 where we watered, as we would not 
 find water for eight miles, and were 
 very agreeably surprised to find a fine 
 spring at the foot of the hill. 
 
 While approaching the Spring, a 
 man came running into camp at full 
 speed, shouting at the top of his voice, 
 every jump, "Indians." Some thirty 
 or forty rifles were down and that 
 many men running in the direction of 
 the persuers who only numbered one 
 man, who had galloped in the direc- 
 tion of the White man to shake hands 
 with him. A small party of Panacks 
 were near the hills across the swamp. 
 The road was very good, no difficulty 
 whatever in passing. We drove ten 
 miles to good water, making twenty 
 miles in all. 
 
 to % f artftr 
 
 Saturday, 28th. The number of 
 trains near us compelled us to start 
 early and crossing only one water 
 course, we drove fifteen miles to 
 another fine one, where the grass was 
 good and we concluded to remain for 
 the day. In the evening I washed 
 my dirty clothes, which is the most 
 disagreeable part of the trip. 
 
 The fine grass and water and the 
 excessive fatigue of our mules, to- 
 gether with our inclination to rest on 
 Sunday, readily determined us to re- 
 main at our Camp untill Monday. 
 
 The day was quite sultry and I 
 spent the most of it sleeping. Many 
 trains were passing which would not 
 reach water that night, as an Indian 
 informed me it was ten miles from 
 water to water, ^nnrrnft LibniO 
 
 We set out early Monday morning 
 and found the road crossed one hill 
 and then turning short off to the right, 
 ascends for several miles very grad- 
 ually, when a short but steep place 
 presented itself. Soon we crossed it 
 and found ourselves on the summit 
 of a very steep hill, which we found 
 quite difficult to descend. 
 
 We crossed many fine valleys, but 
 did not reach water untill four 
 o'clock, when we found five fine 
 springs. There had been near two 
 hundred waggons at this ground the 
 night before and the grass was eaten 
 off short, so we took our mules to 
 grass about one mile from camp. 
 Travelled twenty seven miles. 
 
 Set out quite early Tuesday morn- 
 ing and drove six miles, where we 
 found that there was no water for 
 fifteen miles, so we filled our vessels, 
 but had not gone far when we learned 
 that a fine creek was five miles in ad- 
 vance of us, where unhitched and fed 
 our mules. Again set out and drove 
 down the ravine ten miles where we 
 found fine grass on the bank of the 
 creek. Many springs are to be found 
 on the road at distances ranging from 
 three to five miles apart. 
 
 Wednesday we set out early and 
 drove fifteen miles to a small but fine 
 watered creek, for noon feed. Four 
 
Hmrnra nf a 
 
 in "3Fnrig-mtu> 
 
 miles from camp we left the ravine 
 or cannon we had been travelling in 
 for two days and struck across the 
 uplands, twelve miles to water. 
 
 We set out again after three hours 
 rest and drove across a dry, sandy 
 and barren piece of land, five miles to 
 a fine creek, rather the Raft River, 
 then went up the creek three miles, 
 and crossed where we camped near 
 the junction of the Fort Hall and 
 Cut-off roads Making twenty one 
 miles, and one hundred and twenty 
 miles on the distance of the Cut-off. 
 The road most certainly is in a more 
 direct course and will also compare 
 with the road via Fort Hall, for many 
 miles it is a little south west in its 
 direction and is in fine order lying in 
 cannons where nature has done 
 everything for a natural road. There 
 are but two hills on the entire road 
 that are bad ones, they are not so 
 troublesome as those on the Sublet 
 Cut-off though. Taking everything 
 together the road is excellent and will 
 save to the emigrants at least three 
 days travell with teams. We passed 
 through in six days travell while 
 manv trains were twelve days in go- 
 ing by Fort Hall. 
 
 At sunrise on Thursday morning 
 we commenced our days journey and 
 when we reached the foot of the 
 dividing ridge, between Humbolt and 
 Raft, we learned that there was no 
 grass or water for twelve miles, so 
 we concluded to stay at the creek 
 where three fine but small springs put 
 out and feed our mules. We again 
 set out and commenced the gradual 
 ascent of the ridge and in three hours 
 were at the summit, then turning a 
 more westerly course, we descended 
 as gradually as we had ascended, into 
 a fine vallev where we found plenty 
 of water at three places, from two 
 to four miles apart. The "Dividing 
 Ridge" bears a striking resemblance 
 to the famous South Pass in the 
 Rocky Mountains. I found small 
 particles of Gold in one of the creeks 
 we crossed, but think that no great 
 
 quantities are to be found. Drove 
 eighteen miles. 
 
 Friday we made a late start in the 
 morning and drove ten miles into a 
 valley where we found water to the 
 right hand of the road. The grass is 
 excellent and well suited for horses. 
 
 Again set out and drove eight miles 
 to the head of the creek that puts out 
 from the Narrows. The road is very 
 dusty and the day was exceedingly 
 warm. Just as you leave the valley 
 and enter the Narrows, you will find a 
 fine large spring. While at this place 
 three waggons of the Dayton Ohio 
 Company came up, having travelled 
 via Salt Lake, of which they speak 
 in glowing terms. 
 
 Mc-Clure, Marrot, Edmondson, 
 Flint, Broadwell and Tingley are 
 among the number and will travell 
 with us. 
 
 Saturday, 4th, of August. In the 
 morning we set out early and crossed 
 the ridge to Goose creek, about six 
 miles. 
 
 The road is very bad and at one hill 
 we were compelled to let the waggon 
 down with ropes. We travelled 
 about seven miles down the creek, 
 where we stopped to feed our mules 
 near where the Dayton Company 
 grazed. In the afternoon we started 
 and had not driven more than three 
 miles when we broke the hounds of 
 the waggon in the crossing of a rut 
 or gully, near a Sulpher Spring. 
 About two hours was lost in repair- 
 ing them, and the road being in fine 
 order, we drove five miles where we 
 reached the Dayton Company and 
 camped for the night on the banks of 
 the creek. 
 
 Sunday being the dav of rest, we 
 concluded to remain at our camp un- 
 till Monday. The Dayton Compum 
 started at daylight and we had to do 
 the same Monday, in order to over- 
 take them this week. The day is 
 quite breezy and threatens rain. We 
 all heartily wish it may fall in tor- 
 rents. 
 
Inurtmj Arrnsu tlj? {Ihtuta tn tfj? flarifu 
 
 
 
 Monday at two o'clock in the morn- 
 ing the mules were brought in and 
 one hour after we were ready to trav- 
 ell. We had only driven about three 
 miles when the waggon belonging to 
 Steel and Brothers (who have been 
 travelling with us from a short dis- 
 tance this side of Ft. Laramie) cap- 
 sized in crossing a deep ravine full of 
 water. The driver drove too far to 
 the right and all fell off a bank, four 
 feet into the water. Fortunately 
 nothing was hurt and a short time 
 only elapsed before all was restored 
 to proper order and the waggon 
 crossed by hand. 
 
 We travelled up this creek, ten 
 miles, passing on the way many ox 
 trains, when we left it and com- 
 menced a gradual ascent for several 
 miles on a barren country. No grass 
 was any where to be found and less 
 water. This state of things com- 
 pelled us to move on slowly untill we 
 should reach water, which we did 
 about thirteen miles from the Goose 
 Creek. The springs were of the pur- 
 est water, but not cool as their ap- 
 pearance would indicate, yet not hot 
 enough to entitle them to the name 
 given them Hot Springs. As the 
 grass at the springs had been eaten 
 up, we drove five miles to the four 
 springs on the left of the road, where 
 grass was very poor. The water is 
 very cool and refreshing. Many 
 companies were near us that night. 
 We passed one~ hundred and three 
 teams, going twenty eight miles. 
 
 Tuesday. Set out and drove twenty 
 three miles to good grass and water, 
 where our mules fed themselves to 
 their satisfaction. Again drove in 
 the afternoon fourteen miles to a fine 
 spring near a Companv from Arkan- 
 sas, in which was Dr. Powell of East 
 Tennessee. Also met with a young 
 man formerly of Burk County, North 
 Carolina, who was nursing a young 
 man just at deaths door, with con- 
 sumption, named Due Chandler of 
 Yancey County, North Carolina, and 
 a son of Lew Chandler of that County 
 and State. 
 
 He was attacked with Cholera and 
 the exposure brought a relapse and 
 finally turned to Typhoid Fever and 
 Consumption, which will result in his 
 death before many hours. He was 
 insensible and could not observe any 
 person. We drove twenty seven 
 miles. 
 
 Wednesday we set out at sunrise 
 and drove to the head of the valley, 
 about ten miles, where there is a fine 
 spring and water for the stock and 
 where we supplied ourselves with a 
 sufficiency to do us across the hills 
 eight miles to a branch of St. Mary's 
 river, where we found a fine cold 
 spring and excellent grass. 
 
 After resting two hours we again 
 set out and enterin^ the Cannon, we 
 crossed the creek nine times, many of 
 the places ^eing exceedingly difficult 
 to pass. The ox trains being very 
 slow in crossing, detained us till after 
 night in reaching the valley where we 
 found a company from Tennessee, 
 consisting of Henley, Bagby, Love- 
 less, Stone and Sevier and Russell, 
 who kindly directed us to the best 
 grass. Having crossed the creek and 
 the worst part of the crossing after 
 night, we broke a bolt connecting the 
 tongue of the waggon to the hounds. 
 Made twenty eight miles. 
 
 Thursday we made a late start, ow- 
 ing to the fatigue of ourselves and 
 mules, yet in plenty of time to over- 
 take our Tennessee friends, in ten 
 miles, near water and good grass, 
 where we stopped to feed. Here Mr. 
 Sevier gave us some yeast, for bread, 
 which will be a treat. Again set out 
 and drove ten miles to St. Marys 
 River, coming in from the North and 
 which has some flow of water. 
 
 The sfrass in the valley is of the 
 finest and most nutritious kind, but 
 water is scarce. Distance, during the 
 dav twenty miles. 
 
 Friday we left camp late and drove 
 ten miles to a fine camping place near 
 the river. Crossing the hills twice 
 to-day, neither more than one mile 
 stretch, across the hill. The road is 
 very dusty and the mules quite fa- 
 
nf a (into 
 
 in 
 
 tigued. The appearance of the coun- 
 try is as barren as one could expect. 
 Drove twenty miles. 
 
 Saturday, nth. In the morning 
 after the trains had started I re- 
 mained at camp untill the waggons 
 from Dayton Ohio came up, when I 
 was not a little surprised to find Wm. 
 H. Smith, of Dayton, in the Com- 
 pany. He was an Engineer on the 
 Miami Canal, when I contracted ac- 
 quaintance with him. He informed 
 me that the Sidney Company was be- 
 hind us, having taken the Ft. Hall 
 road. I was sorry to learn this, as I 
 had anticipated much pleasure in see- 
 ing them. After a very agreeable 
 confab with Air. Smith, I left him and 
 rode forward to overtake the Com- 
 pany, which I succeeded in doing in 
 two hours, having travelled twelve 
 miles in the morning. 
 
 After resting three hours we set 
 out and drove eight miles to fine grass 
 near the mouth of Thomas's Fork, of 
 St. Marys, where we remained untill 
 morning. Drove twenty miles. 
 
 Sunday, I2th of August 1849. The 
 evening before we had determined to 
 travell on Sunday, in order to keep in 
 advance of the ox trains we are 
 already ahead of, but the fine grass 
 near by renders it a matter of neces- 
 sity to suffer the mules to graze. We 
 were this day invited to attend 
 preaching at the camp of the "Union 
 Band," of Illinois, about one mile 
 above us on the creek. This was an 
 opportunity that one had not m^ t 
 with lately and we very gladly availed 
 ourselves of it. The preacher was 
 the Rev. Mr. Rumston, of the Metho- 
 dist Denomination, but from his ser- 
 mon, one would be greatly puzzled 
 to discern the difference between his 
 doctrine and that held by the Univer- 
 salists. 
 
 He argued that "Adam and the 
 Old Lady" did not die a Spiritual 
 death, when they transgressed, but 
 only disobeyed the Commandments 
 yet would have suffered a temporal 
 death, had not God promised that 
 "the sin of woman should bruise the 
 
 serpents head," thereby attempting to 
 prove that every person from Adam 
 down to the present day had been 
 saved, "if not his text is false," be- 
 cause it pronounces him a Savior of 
 all man-kind. Taking the sermon 
 and the preacher altogether (for that 
 is the way we come to any conclusion 
 on the plains) it was a very poor ex- 
 cuse, even for the season and the Lat- 
 itude. I had not patience to hear him 
 out, and left the place about one half 
 hour before he finished. This is the 
 second Minister I have seen En Route 
 for the new El Dorado and I have 
 lost confidence in them in exact pro- 
 portion to my acquaintance with 
 them. 
 
 Gold is there only topic and bears a 
 great contrast to the teaching of our 
 Lord Jesus Christ. The day was one 
 of exceeding pleasure, just sufficient 
 breeze afloat to make it comfortable 
 and the sun warm and agreeable, 
 though not sultry and hot. Many ox 
 teams passed and went slowly on. 
 
 Monday. We set out at sunrise 
 and travelled eleven miles to grass 
 near the river. About four miles 
 from camp we came to the fork of 
 the road, where we kept the left hand, 
 down the river, crossing in the mean 
 time the river three times at good 
 fords. Passed the Dayton Company, 
 to which Mr. McCorkle belonged and 
 with whom I rode about five miles 
 and talked of Ohio and my friends. 
 At noon a Cheyenne Indian came into 
 camp and behaved very friendly. 
 
 He showed us the substitute for the 
 "Punk and Flint," which was a piece 
 of dried Beech wood inserted in the 
 end of an arrow, which was set in a 
 hole to fit it in a piece of wood of 
 same kind and then by friction, fire 
 was set to dry earth, which was first 
 put in a notch at the side of the hole. 
 Again drove ten miles to the hill 
 where the road turns to the right and 
 strikes the river in twenty miles. 
 About ten miles from this turn of the 
 road will be found several fine 
 springs, but little grass for stock. 
 
3l0trnu>g 
 
 in tlj? Jtartftr 
 
 Early Tuesday morning the mules 
 were driven in and hitched up in 
 order we might have the early part 
 of the day to cross the "Stretch." 
 Just as we were starting one of our 
 Company took all his baggage out of 
 the waggon, with the determination 
 of leaving us. Nothing was said to 
 induce him to remain, as he was a 
 very disagreeable man, though one 
 lost much by suffering him to leave 
 us after coming so far. He and 
 Haines had disagreed on the day be- 
 fore and not a day preceeding that 
 for the last two months, but he was 
 quarreling with some one of the Com- 
 pany. None of us bid him goode- 
 bye, as we had but a poor opinion of 
 him. 
 
 We travelled twenty two miles to 
 where we struck the river and cross- 
 ing we continued down five miles to 
 good grass, where we stopped for the 
 night. No grass is to be found near 
 the river where you strike it. The 
 dust was almost unendurable in the 
 Cannon, having had nothing to equal 
 it since leaving the states. Drove 
 twenty seven miles. 
 
 Wednesday we set out at daylight 
 and drove fifteen miles for noon feed, 
 on the river bank. The mules were 
 very much j added to-day, caused I 
 think by eating bullrushes, on the pre- 
 ceeding night. Stone drove for the 
 first time since leaving the states 
 and performed the duty of waggoner 
 admirably. 
 
 In the afternoon we drove eight 
 miles to fine feed on the river. There 
 is no grass of account on the river for 
 fifteen miles after the road from the 
 stretch. The Indians are also very 
 troublesome here, having stolen many 
 cattle from trains last here. 
 
 Eight Indians have been killed by 
 the Whites, in the last fortnight and 
 I much fear they will become more 
 troublesome than ever. Distance on 
 Wed. twentv three miles. Met In- 
 glesby, of Urbana. 
 
 At sunrise on Thursday, we left 
 camp and drove thirteen miles to 
 ordinary grass on the river. While 
 
 nooning to-day a shower came up but 
 did nothing scarcely but threaten to 
 rain very hard. Our mules are much 
 better, but the horses of the Messrs. 
 Steele are still affected, so much so, 
 that it is with difficulty they travell. 
 Owing to these horses being so jad- 
 ded, we did not start from noon feed 
 untill three o'clock and then drove 
 twelve miles, to good grass. The 
 Messrs. Steele did not reach our camp 
 that evening, therefore we are alone, 
 and will not have them with us on the 
 end of our journey. We all regret- 
 ted leaving them as they were careful 
 and steady men, and asrreed with us 
 in our travelling better than any we 
 have met on the road, but we could 
 not think of loosing time in waiting 
 for their horses to recruit. 
 
 Late Friday morning we started 
 and drove twelve miles for noon rest. 
 The country is very barren and only 
 in a few places is any grass to 'be 
 found. The Rheumatism has re- 
 turned on me with greater pain trian 
 ever, and it is with much difficulty 
 that I can walk. After three hours 
 rest we again set out and travell thir- 
 teen miles to very good grass, near 
 the pass in the hills. 
 
 Saturday, i8th. We made a very 
 late start and drove through the pass 
 in the hills, about five miles, where 
 there is no grass or water. 
 
 At eleven o'clock we reached fine 
 grass, after travelling twelve miles. 
 Grass is very scarce on the part of 
 the road we passed over. We let our 
 mules eat to their content and then 
 set out and drove six miles, near a 
 large train, where we were so fortu- 
 nate as to find excellent grass. 
 
 Sunday morning we concluded to 
 rest untill two o'clock, when we 
 would drive a short distance. The 
 day was beautiful, but the night was 
 exceedingly cold, with a heavy frost 
 on the ground. At the time agreed 
 on we were ready to leave camp and 
 soon were off at a fine rate, Dr. Stone 
 driving. He drove eight miles, when 
 we stopped near two waggons from 
 Missouri, one of the men formerly 
 
ifemmrs nf a 
 
 in 
 
 from Washington County, East Ten- 
 nessee. 
 
 The grass is very good across the 
 river, but wood is unusually scarce 
 and the ford is very deep and difficult 
 to cross. 
 
 The Evening much resembled the 
 quiet Sunday Evening that we were 
 accustomed to have at home with our 
 friends. We often think of home and 
 the many friends we have left, but at 
 no time does the feeling make such 
 an impression on one's mind as on a 
 beautiful Sabbath Evening, when the 
 same stillness prevails over every 
 thing. We often wish ourselves at 
 home and with the permission of 
 Providence, we will gratify that wish 
 at no very distant day. at least so 
 soon as we can in a measure fill our 
 pockets with the "Dust." 
 
 Monday we drove twelve miles and 
 found excellent grass on the oppo- 
 site side of the river where we fed 
 our mules three hours. Then started 
 and drove six miles to very poor 
 grass, but we could not do better, and 
 we must be content. Distance eigh- 
 teen miles. 
 
 Tuesday. Our long journey is 
 nearing the end and with feverish ex- 
 citement we sleep and eat. 
 
 We started early and drove four 
 miles to the forks of the road, where 
 we took the right bank, leading over 
 the hills fourteen miles to water. 
 The road is very direct and level. 
 
 We did not stop at noon as we had 
 no grass or water, but drove through 
 to the river and down the same two 
 miles, where we rested our stock on 
 poor grass. 
 
 Wednesday. It was with difficulty 
 i ,-Awe rested, and on Wednesday at one 
 o'clock A. M. we geared up and 
 started on our road, driving about 
 two miles when we came to the forks 
 of the road, the left being the old road 
 to California, going into the same 
 through the great pass in the moun- 
 tains and the ri<rht leading further 
 north, near Mud Lake and striking 
 the head of Feather river. The ma- 
 jority of the emigrants having taken 
 
 this road we concluded to try the ex- 
 periment and soon commenced as- 
 cending the gradual slope to the pass 
 in the mountain. After travelling 
 about fourteen miles we found ex- 
 cellent water on our left, about one 
 mile from the road, where we watered 
 our mules and made a pot of coffee. 
 Again set out and drove near twenty 
 miles when we found a single well on 
 our right, but could not obtain any 
 for our mules and soon we were off 
 for the twenty five mile stretch, but 
 had not travelled more than one mile 
 when we were very agreeably disap- 
 pointed in finding five wells with an 
 abundant supply for ourselves and 
 mules. This in a great measure will 
 enable us to cross the plain easily. 
 Dr. Stone took the lines and drove 
 untill near daylight, when we con- 
 cluded to stop and wait for daylight 
 and then drive untill we reached 
 water, how far distant, no one knows 
 certain. After daybreak and after 
 we had a fine sleep which refreshed 
 us much we arose and geared un and 
 drove six miles to the first hot spring 
 where there is but little grass and the 
 water so hot that no one can drink it. 
 At this place we remained three hours 
 and then drove three miles to next 
 spring and grass, where we rested a 
 few hours and again drove to what is 
 known as the Last Hot Spring, about 
 four miles, making the distance from 
 the forks of the road to the last Hot 
 Spring, about seventy miles. The 
 Hot Springs are a great curiosity, 
 many are warm enough to boil an 
 egg in one minute and have the ap- 
 pearance of boiling water. When the 
 water is cooled it has a very strong 
 sulphuric taste, and the animals will 
 not drink it. 
 
 At the last Hot Spring T was verv 
 agreeably surprised in finding Dr. IT. 
 ( '. Mann, late of Delaware. Ohio, for- 
 merly of Sidney, who T had not met 
 in seven years. The Dr. was very 
 glad to see me and he and I spent 
 many hours in talking of old tinie^ in 
 Sidney. 
 
 26 
 
Arrnsa 
 
 atna tn life 
 
 He very kindly furnished me with 
 directions respecting the road and the 
 probability of a Cut off to be made 
 by Mr. Myers who is a few miles in 
 advance of us. This information in- 
 duced us to travell slowly in order to 
 take advantage of this change of the 
 road. 
 
 Friday we set out and drove eight 
 miles when we found a road diverg- 
 ing to the left, which we followed 
 about a mile and found a fine spring, 
 where we halted and grazed in ordi- 
 nary grass. The water is strongly 
 impregnated with sulphur. In the 
 afternoon we drove twelve miles to 
 fine grass and water, also found 
 Myers' train, surrounded with about 
 two hundred teams, awaiting him to 
 make the Cut Off. At this place we 
 found the Dayton Ohio Company, 
 that had left us on Goose Creek, 
 three weeks since. 
 
 Saturday. We concluded to re- 
 main in camp and recruit our mules 
 in the fine grass. We met several 
 friends among the trains and we en- 
 joyed the rest, but await the Cut Off 
 with great excitement. 
 
 Sunday found me quite unwell, 
 caused by drinking so much water at 
 the Hot Springs. I was entirely too 
 unwell to move and we lay still. The 
 Dayton Company remained and we 
 will drive together, from here to the 
 mines. Broadwell to be the Captain. 
 
 We crossed the Sierra Nevada 
 Mountains on the morning of the 
 thirty first of August, and camped 
 near a small creek, about three miles 
 from the summit. The east side is 
 steen and the road in places sandy 
 and rocky. It is about one mile from 
 the base to the summit, by the road 
 on the east side, and three quarters 
 of a mile on the west. The moun- 
 tains are covered with the finest pine 
 timber I ever saw. 
 
 The pressing duties, from the above 
 place to the mines, prevented me from 
 attending to my memorandum and I 
 reluctantly gave it up. 
 
 JNO. E. BROWN. 
 
 NOTE: The travellers were living 
 in great excitement and within a few 
 days the mines were reached. 
 
^10941 
 
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