! I 1 i TRAVELS AMONGST THE GEEAT ANDES OF THE EQUATOR "THE WHIRLING SNOW MOCKED OUR EFFORTS. TKAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES OF THE EQUATOR BY EDWARD WHYMPER WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS Tn sit on rocks, to muse o'er flood ami toll, To slowly trace the forest's sliaUy scene, Where thinys that own uot man's dominion dwell, And mortal I'uot hath ne'er, or rarely been ; To climb the trackless mountain all unseen, This is not solitude ; 'tis but to liold Converse with Nature's charms, and see her slurcs unroUM. 13 V RON. UNIVERSITY iS^t (FORNIX SECOND EDITION LONDON JOHN MUKKAY, ALBEMAltLE STREET 1892 Ai/ rights arc reserved qgL Copyright 1891, by Charles Scribner's Sons, for the united states of america SiZ.bS Primed by R. Ji K. Clakk, Edittbursh. INTRODUCTION. It will be within the knowledge of most of those who take up this book that it has long been mncli debated whether human life can be sustained at gi-eat altitudes above the level of the sea in such a manner as will permit of the accomplishment of useful w^ork.' The most opposite statements and opinions have been ad-\'anced concerning this matter. The extremes range from saying that fatal results may occur, and have occurred, from some obscure cause, at comparatively moderate elevations, down to that no effects whatever have been experienced at the greatest heights which have been attained. Allegations of the latter class may be set aside for the present, for the evidence is overwhelming that, from 14,000 feet above the level of the sea and upwards, serious inconveniences have occurred ; that prostration (amounting in the more extreme eases to incapacitation) has been experienced ; and that, in a few instances, perhaps, even death has resulted through some cause which operates at great elevations. This evidence has come from all parts of the world, and has accumulated during several centuries. It has been afforded, in- dependently, by multitudes of persons of diverse conditions — by cultured men of science down to illiterate peasants, the latter of whom cannot have heard of experiences beyond their own ; and, although the testimony often differs in detail,, it agrees in the ' In saying this, it is not mcint that there is any doiiht as to tlio possibilitij of the existence of life at great elevations, for aeronauts have .several times shewn, since the coninicncenient of this century, that life may exist, for short periods, at heights exceeding any as yet discovered uiion tlie earth. vi IXTRODUCTIOK. geueral, Icadiii" features. Nausea and vonutino ; headaches of most severe character : feverislmess ; hemorrhages ; lassitude, depression and weakness, and an indescribable feeling of illness, have been re- peatedly mentioned as occuriing at great elevations, and ha^'e onlj- been cured by descending into lower zones. To these maladies the term Moimtaiu-sickness is now commonly applied. It is very generally admitted that mountain-sickness shoiild be attributed to the diminished atmospheric pressure (or, as it is termed, to the rarefaction of the air) which is experienced as one goes upward. Yet, in various parts of the world, the notion is, and has long been entertained that it is due to local causes, such, for example, as noxious exhalations from vegetation. Some support to this notion seems to be found in the fact that whilst the greatest heights in Europe (15-16,000 feet) are annually ascended by throngs of persons without perceptible inconvenience, multitudes of others in Asia and America suftei' aeutel}- at lower elevations (14-15,000 feet) ; and it would therefore seem that there are intiu- ences at work ou tlie latter continents which do not operate in Europe. Tlie apparent discordance is explicaljle without having recourse to local intiueuces, wliicli emild unl lie deemed sufficient to account for the effects in general, e\en if they might be enter- tained in particular instances. Whilst the assumed causes are local, the observed effects are world-wide ; anil no cause would be adequate to accfiinit for tlie effects except one operating in e-\-ery clime and at all times. But, although it is very generally admitted that tlie evils which ha\e been enumerated are due to diminished atmospheric pressure, iiuniy ]nns(ins arc unconxinei'd that such is the true explanation, especially tliose wlio are accustomed to travel amongst the mount- ains of Europe ; and it is pointed out, apparently with force, that tlie whole of the symptoms can be produced by other causes, and that aeronauts liave sometimes allaiiird higlier elevations than have ever been reached on the earth, and have scarcely been affected at all. It is argued that some persons are predisposed to nau.sea. INTRODUCTION. vii that others are liable to bleeding at the nose, or habitually suffer from headache, and that this accounts for much which lias been laid to rarefaction of the air; and further, it is said, or conjectured, that the fatigues inseparable from travel in mountain-regions account for more : in short, that mountain-sickness is to be attri- buted to the frailties of human nature, or to the imperfections of individual constitutions, and is considered as a sign, r)r indication, of weakness or incompetency. It is undeniable that there is some truth iu these observations, and it can scarcely be doubted that effects which have been pro- duced by fatigue have often, wrongly, been attributed to rare- faction of the air, and that effects which have been produced by rarefaction of the air have often been assigned to fatigue. The immunity from unpleasant symptoms which has sometimes been enjoyed Ijy aeronauts, even when Ijounding in a few minutes to enormous elevations,^ has tended to foster scepticism ; and has appeared to support the opinion that fatigue and personal imper- fections have had much to do with mountain-sickness, and not to accord with the view that it is produced by diminished pressure — otherwise, why should these persons, transported without effort to superior elevations in the air, have escaped, whilst others, at much inferior ones upon the earth, suffer ? It is scarcely necessary to occupy these pages with a mass of ' Tlie following data are taken IVoni the Ecjiortu of Mr. J. Glaislier, F.Ii.S., to the British Association for the Advancement of Science, 1862-3 — Date. Time, .luly 17, 1862 9.43 A.M. 10.-27 ,. Sept. 5, ,, 1.3 I'.M. 1.36 ,, April 18, ,, 1.17 ,, 1-49 ,, Starting from the level of the .sea, the height attained in eaeli case was about 19,000 feet, without injurious effects being felt. I am not aware that any one, upon thr earth, has ever experienced a natural dilTerence of pressure of fourteen and a lialt indies in less than fotir or five days. tarometer. Ditr. of Time. Diff. of Pressure. 29-193 \ 14-637 J 44 min. 14-55 inches. 29-17 1 14-55 / 33 „ 14-62 ,, 29-66 1 14-81 / 32 „ 14-85 ,, viii INTRODUCTION. extracts in support of the foregoing statements. Those who desire lo pursue tlie matter in detail may usefully turn to the very com- prehensive summary in Ln F/rssion Baromitriquc, by M. Paul Bert,^ where 156 pages are devoted to experiences in high places, 25 more to aeronauts, and 120 more to theories. Evidence of a nature similar to that whicli is quoted by M. Bert continues to accumulate, and is often, apparently, of a contradictory character. For example, since returning from the journey which is described in the following pages, three writers upon Mexico - ha^'e mentioned tliat Ijreathing is affected in that city by the ' rarefied atmosphere,' although the altitude in question is less than 8000 feet above the sea ; while on the other liand, quite recently (in .speaking of the Southern Andes up to heights 13,800 feet above the sea). Dr. \. riagemann says, " with regard to the eflects of rarefied air on the body at high elevations, neither he nor his companions suffered at all."^ Still more divergent is the statement by Mr. "W. "\V. Graham that he reached nearly the height of 24,000 feet in the Himalayas, and that "neither in this nor in any other ascent did he feel any inconvenience in breathing other than tlie ordinary panting inseparable i'mm any great muscular exertion." This unique experience has met with little credence in India. ' G. Masson, Paris, 1878. This work has received the highest honours in France. The experiments made by M. Bert upon himself at low pressures, althouf;h extremely interesting, left off sooner than could have been desired. In the first of the two experiments which I quote in the Appendix to this volume, he submitted himself to an artificial diminution of pressure somewhat greater than that which is experienced at the summit of Chimborazo, and in the second one to about the press- ure which would be enjoyed on the top of Mount Everest. But this was done for only a brief space of time. The first experiment extended over only sixty-six minutes and the second one over eighty-nine minutes ; ami, as soon as any ill eftccts com- menced to manifest themselves, M. Bert refreshed himself with oxygen. Tlie experiments seemed to shew that oxygen may exercise a beneficial influence. - Sec A Trip lo Mexico, by H. C. R. Becher, Toronto, 1880, p. 73 ; Mexico To- Day, by T. U. Brocklcluirst, London, 1S83, p. 28 ; and Winter in the Slant of the Sun, in Oooel IFonls, 1887, p. 24.1, by the Bishop of Rochester. » Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society, April 1887, y. 219. * Prne. liinjal Geog. Soc., Augvist 1884, p. 4S4. IXTliunUrTION. ix It is, however, a certain fact tliat all iiuli\'iduals are not equally affected by diminished pressure, and that instances have occiu-red at such heights as 14-15,000 feet in which some persons have suffered whilst others have escaped, though the latter have not been exempt upon mounting to greater altitudes. But whilst tliis must be admitted ; and also the probability that the effects of fatigue have often been wrongly interpreted ; and, further, tliat personal frailties are frequently manifested upon mountain ascents, or at great elevations, there is a large residuum which cannot be explained away ; and any one examining the matter can hardly fail to arrive at the conclusion that mountain-sickness is a world- wide reality. This subject, long since, appeared to me to be woithy of inves- tigation for its own sake, more particularly for ascertaining the heights at which effects begin to manifest themselves ; the symp- toms ; and whether the effects are permanent. It seemed certain that, sooner or later, every one must be affected by diminished pressure, but tiie manner in which it would operate was uncertain, and whether its effects would be felt permanently at any given elevation was unknown. Those who have been affected by mount- ain-sickness have always desired to be rid of the infliction, and have descended to lower levels at the earliest opportunity. Hence it had not been ascertained whether cures might be effected on the spot ; or, to put the matter in another way, whether one can be- come liabituated to low pressures. The remarks which have fallen from those who are most entitled to attention have not been of an encouraging nature, and it may be inferred from their general tenor that as the cause is constant and permanent so will the effects be constant and permanent. De Saussure, after finding himself through weakness, and diffi- culty in breathing, unable to make during a foui' and a half hours stay on the summit of Mont l]lauc the experiments whicli he had repeatedly performed in less tlian three houis at the level of the X INTRODUCTION. sea, said he thought it probable that they would iwocr be made at the higher station.' Darwin, who visited the INirtilln I'ass in the (.'hilian Andes, althougli lint slightly atleeted there (at 13-14,000 feet), said, "cer- tainly the exertion of walking was extreme, and the respiration became deep and laborious. It is iucomprehensiljle to me how Hundiijldt and (Jlhers were able to ascend to the elevation of 19,000 feet."- The Schlagintweits attained great heights in Asia, and made some remai'ks that are more to the point than any others wliich 1 am able to quote, although they do not go much into detail. In the second volume of their Besidts of a ScienfAfic Mission to India and High Asia^ p. 484, they say, " As to the beneficial effect of acclimatisation, we can speak from our own personal experience." [r>y this expression, I understand them to say that they became somewhat habituated to low pressuies.] But they add, in continu- ation, " what might have been the consequence had we prolonged our stay in these lofty regions it is inqiossilile to say, the proba- bility, however, being that a longer scjjiiuru would have told severely upon our health." This is said in connection with an attempt that they made to ascend Ibi Gamin (Kamet), on Aug. 19, 1855, upon which occasion tliey reached the height of 22,230 feet.* In a Report liy them which was published at Madras in 1855 (and was reprinted at Calcutta) there is this further information: — " At two o'clock at last it had liecome absolutely impossible to go ' "(juoiijuu je lie pcrtlisse pas uu seiil moment, jc lie pus I'aire dans ces 4 hemes k demie toutes les experiences que j'ai frequerament aclievees en moins de 3 lieures au bord de la mev." — Voyages dans les Alpcs, vol. iv, p. 148. "Jc cou.sei'vois I'e.sperancc liion fondue d'aohcver, sur le Col-du-Geant, co que jo n'avois pas fait, & que vraisenililal)lriii(iit Ton lie fi'ia JMinais sur le Jlont-l'lanc." — Id. § 2023, p. 215. - Narralive of the Surveying Voyages uf ffis Majesty's Ships Adventure and Beagle, vol. iii, p. 393. ■> Loudon and Leipzig, 1S62. ■* The height was dciluced from observations of niereurial barometer, and it is the greatest as yet attained upon the eartli wliirh has been detennined I ly observations on the spot. INTRODUVTION. xi any liighei- ; two of our people wlio liad got sick had lemained behind, and a-c all the rest felt exceedingly tired and exhausted, as wc ccrtaiiili/ neivr were in our life. . . We had got much used to the iiiHueiice of height, especially during our Thibetan journey, but u}i tliere not one escaped uirhurt ; we all felt lieadache." To attain results which might be of a more or less conclusive character, it appeared to me that it would Ije necessary to eliminate the complications arising from fatigue, privations, cold, and insutti- ciency or unsuitability of food ; that the persons concerned should have been previously accustomed to mountain work ; that the heights to be dealt with ought to be in excess of those at which it had been generally admitted serious inconveniences had occurred ; and that preparations should be made for a prolonged sojourn at such elevations. The Himalayas and their allied ranges offered the best field for research, and in 1874 I projected a scheme which would have taken me in the first instances on to the very ground where others had been placed hors de combat, and from these positions I proposed to carry exploration and research up to the highest attainable limits. But, just at the time when it was possible to start, our rulers entered upon the construction of a ' scientific frontier ' for India, and rendered that region unsuitable for scientific investiga- tions. I was recommended by experienced Anglo-Indians to defer my visit, and I followed their advice. Equally debarred, by the \mhappy dissensions between Chili, Peru, and Bolivia, from travel amongst the highest of the Andes, I turned to the Eepublic of Ecuador, the most lofty remaining country which was accessible. As the main object of the journey was to observe the effects of low pressure, and to attain the greatest possilile height in order to experience it, Chimborazo naturally claimed the first attention, on accoinit of its absolute elevation above the sea ; ' and I proposed to ' Its huiglit, accoriliug to HumboUlt, is 21,425 feet. See llccucil cV observations aslroiio/iiiqucs, d'operations Irigunomelritjucs, ct dc mcsurcs haromelriqucs, jiar Alcx- aiiilie lie HumboUlt, Paris, 1810, vol. i, p. lx.\iii (inti'od.). I xii IXTltOUVCTION. eiK-aiiii) upun llii.s luuuulaiii, at yradually iucreasiug huiglits, with the nhiinate aim of reaching the summit. But as there was no cer- tainty tliat tliis could ]ie done, and a possibility, at least, that the I'esults of the investigations might be of a negative character, various other objects were kept in view ; principal amongst them being tlie determination of the altitudes and of the relati\e posi- tions of the chief mountains of Ecuador, the comparison of boiling- point observations and of aneroids against the mercurial bai'onieter, and collecting in Botany and Zoology at great heights. I concerned myself neither with commerce or politics, nor with the natives and their curious ways ; and there are, besides, many interesting topics which might be dwelt upon that find no place in this volume. Tiie Ecuadorian Loan, for example, is a capital subject, and a few pages might well be devoted to a matter in which the public takes so much interest, and from wliich it derives so little. Having only my own very small means to depend upon, my staff was necessarily upon the most modest scale. Three assistants were indispensable, and these I proposed to draw from the mount- ain-guides of Europe. My old guide, Jean-Aiitoine Carrel, of Val Tournanche,^ accepted my proposals, and two others also agi'ced to go but withdrew from their engagements shortly before the date for departure, and placed ine in a great ditticulty. After vainly endeavouring to obtain the services of some of the best-known men, I was obliged to instruct Carrel to bring any one he could. His cousin Louis (with whom I was already acquainted) came, Init no one else could be procured at so short notice, and a third man hml to be ]iickcd up in Ecuador, and proved, naturally, of no service when a knowledge of mountain-craft was wanted. It was not advisal)le to attempt to travel in Ecuador without recognition, and I sought the good offices of the then President of the Alpine Club in this matter. 1 cannot acknowledge too warmly the cnrdial co-operation of Mr. Cliarles Edward ^Matliews, and tlic ' For tlie aiitLTi'ik'iits olM.-A. Carrel, see ScmiiiOlcs amonijal llic ^Ups, J. lluiray, 1S71. IXrnODUCTIOX. xiii personal tniuhle lie tmik that my wishes luigiit be efficiently re- presented in the rinlit quarters. Tliroiigh his instrumentality, 1 was put in communication with the Ecuadorian Consul -General in Great Britain (Mr. Edmund Heuer of Manchester), and subse- quently received from His Excellency the President of the Eepublic assiu'ance that I should be heartily welcome in his country ; and, upon application at the Foreign Office, Lord Salisbury was pleased to direct Her Majesty's representatives at Guayaquil and Quito to afford every assistance in their power — an instruction which they interpreted sympathetically. Upon the introduction of j\Ir. Mathews, George Dixon, Esq., M.l'. for Birmingham, rendered most valuable ser\'ice liy undertaking to send out in advance and to place in secure hands at Guaranda and Quito a quantity of mv heavy baggage. Through my old friend Mr. Douglas Freshfield, the Caucasian exploiter, the projected journey liecame known to Freiherr \'on Thiel- mann, who had recently ridden through Colombia and Ecuador,' and he most kindly met me at Ostend, to give the benefit of his experiences ; and from this accomplished diplomatist-traveller it was communicated to Dr. Alphons Stiiliel, of Dresden, who with rare lilierality presented me with a copy of the unpublished altitudes in Ecuador ' which had Ijeen deduced from the observations made by him in 1871-73 in conjunction with Dr. W. Eeiss. Many other equally friendly services were perfoiiiied both Ijy friends and strangers, especially by the fraternity of mountain-travellers, and amongst the very last communications which reached me, just before departure, came a cheering hon wi/Kf/r from the ^■eteran Boussingault, who forty-eight years earlier had himself endeavoured to a.scend Chimborazo. Similar good fortune continued on the outward voyage. IVIy sincere thanlcs are due to the agents of the Eoyal Mail Steam Packet Company, and to the Acting-Consuls at Colon and Panama, ' And maile the ascent of Cotojiaxi. - Alluras lomadas en la Rcpublica cUi Ecuador, (^)uito, 1873. xiv INTBODUCTIOK. for theii- undeserved attentions, and particularly to the Eight Hon. H. C. Childers (at that time chairman of the Eoyal Mail Steam Packet Company), who most courteously granted me the use of one of his cabins in order that work might be cai'ried on uninter- ruj^tedly. Upon arrival at Guayaquil we were at once received into the house of Mr. George Chandlers, H.B.M.'s Consul, and were treated with genuine hospitality. It is now my duty to acknowledge iu the most prominent manner the invaluable services which were rendered throughout the journey by the cousins Carrel. Travellers are not always fortunate in their assistants, and, occasionally, even fall out witli them. Under circumstances which were frequently trying, our party, although exceedingly small, was always closely united. The imperturbable good temper of the one man, and the grmi humour of the other, were sources of continual satisfaction. I trusted my person, property, and interests to their care with perfect confidence, and they proved worthy of the trust, and equal to every demand which was made upon them. We travelled through Ecuador unarmed, except with passjjorts which were never exhibited, and with a number of letters of intro- duction which for the most part were not presented ; adojjting a policy of non-intervention in all that did not concern us, and ligidly respecting the customs of the country, even when we could not agree with them : and traversed that unsettled Eepublic with- out molestation, trusting more to our wits tlian to oui' credentials, and believing that a jest may conquer wliere force will fail, tliat a hon-mot is often better than a passport. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. FROM LONDON TO GUARANDA. ECUADORIAN POLITENESS — GUAYAQUIL — ENGAGE AN INTERPRETEK — THE RAINY SEASON — SOME SNAKE STORIES — RIVER GUAYAS AND ITS TRIBUTARIES — ARRIVE AT BODEGAS DE BABAHOYO — INDECOROUS BEHAVIOUR OF OUR MULES — ALL ALIVE AT LA MONA — "THE ROYAL ROAD " — A TROPICAL JUNGLE — ASCENT OF THE OUTER ANDES — TAMBO LOMA (THE HOTEL ON THE HILL) — SUMMIT OF THE OUTER RANGE — THE PACLFICJIANGE OF ECUADOR — DESCENT INTO THE VALLEY OF THE RIVER CHIMBO — ARRIVAL AT GUARANDA — MAPS BY LA CONDAMINE AND DON PEDRO MALDONADO— ROUTE MAP AND MAP OF CHIMBORAZO . Pages 1-18 CHAPTER II. FROM GUARANDA TO THE FIRST CAMP ON CHIMBORAZO. A CANDID MAN — INVISIBILITY OF CHIMBORAZO — THE GRE.\T ARENAL — VISIT TO TORTORILLAS — THE AUTHORITIES OF GUAR.iNDA — TREASURES ! — FIRST VIEW OF CHIMBORAZO — DISCOVERY OF ITS TWO SUMMITS — M.iGNITUDE OF ITS GLACIERS — DISCU.SSION OF ROUTE — THE SOUTH-WEST RIDGE — THE CARRELS START TO SELECT A CAMPING -PLACE — PRINCIPAL OBJECT OF THE JOURNEY — HUMBOLDT's .VTTEMPT TO ASCEND CHIMBORAZO IN 1802 — BOUSSINGAULT's ATTEMPTS IN 18-31 — DIVINE SPEED — DISILLUSIONIZED — COMPARISONS OF THE BAROMETERS — A HOPE DISSIPATED — EXECUTED INSTANTANEOUSLY — RETURN OF THE CARRELS — MORE THAN 19,000 FEET HIGH "BY .\NEROID " — A PARTING BENEDICTION — ARRIV.VL .\T THE FIRST C.VMP ON CHIMBORAZO . . . 19-40 CHAPTER III. THE FIRST ASCENT OF CHIJIBORAZO. IXGR.VTITUDE — ROUTE UP THE VALLOX DE CARREL — ON MOUNTAIN -SICKNESS — PLAN OF OPERATIONS — THE COMMISSARI.iT — ARRIVAL AT THE SECOND CAMP — HORS DE COMBAT — CHLORATE OF POTASH — THE MERITS OF RED WINE — PERRIXO DISTINGUISHES HIMSELF — SYMPTOMS OF MOUNTAIN - SICKNESS — LIFE AT LOW PRESSURES — REASONS WHY MERCURIAL BAROMETERS ARE BROKEN — PRECAU- TIONS — STRANGE BEHAVIOUR OF THE ANEROIDS — DESCRIPTION OF THE SOUTH- xvi CnXTENT!^. WEST RIDGE — EXPLORATION RY THE CARRELS — MORE THAN 19,000 FEET HIOH BY MERCURIAL BAROMETER — ESTAIiLISHMENT OF THE THIRH CAMI' — THE OX- CHEEK OF CHICAGO — A LIBELLOUS STATEMENT — DESERTION OF THE INDIANS — ARRIVAL AND FLIGHT OF THE GUARD — "THE BONES OF SOME RUMINANT " — ASSAULT OF THE BREACH — DISCOMFITED — SECOND ATTACK — PASSAGE OF THE BREACH — ARRIVAL ON THE SUMMIT OF CHIMBORAZO — ITS HEIGHT — DISCORDANT OBSERY'ATIONS — SANGAI IN ERUPTION — THE SOUTHERN WALLS — AN ICE- AVALANCHE — THE r.ETi'.EAT ..... Pages 41-80 CHAPTER IV. FROM CHUQUIPOQUIO TO AM15AT0, LATACUNGA AND MACHACHI. FROST-BITTEN — PERRING IS DESPATCHED TO AMBATO — AN ARISTOCRATIC INN- KEEPER — DESCRIPTION OF THE TAMDO OF CHUQUIPOQUIO — OUR APPETITES PAIL — HEIGHT OF THE BAROMETER ON CHIMBORAZO — WEATHER ON CHIMBORAZO — THE BASIN OF RIOBAMBA — DIMENSIONS OF CHIMBORAZO — RETURN OF PERRING WITH THE LITTER — THE ROBBER OF CHUQUIPOQUIO — THE HIGHWAY' TO QUITO — MEASUREMENT ON THE KOAD — DOCTORED AT AMBATO — VISITS AND VISITORS— THE DKT SHERRY OF AMBATO — WAGNER'S " ASCENT " OF CHIMBORAZO — MARKET- DAT — THE PUMICE OF AMB.\TO — WE CAPTURE A " BISHOP " — TUNGURAGUA — THE BASIN OF AMBATO — LATACUNGA — OCCUPATIONS OF THE LADIES— ARRIVAL AT MACHACHI — " IT IS ONLY THE QRINGOS" .... 81-99 CHAPTER V. ON AN ASCENT OF CORAZON, AND WALKS IN THE LANES OF MACHACHL A Tia-THFUL INNKEEPER — LIFE IN TUB INTERIOR — MY Y'OUNG FRIENDS AT MACHACHI — GREAT BEDS OF VOLCANIC DUSTS — THE BASIN OF MACHACHI — WE .SEE .\ DEAD DONKEY AND MEET A SCORPION — LA CONDAMINE's ASCENT OF CORAZON — DESCRIPTION OF THE SUMMIT — ON "RANGE IN ALTITUDE" — ENTO- MOLOGY" AT GREAT HEIGHTS — HUMBOLDT's Y'ELLOW BUTTERFLY' — A ZOOLOGIST'S PARADISE— WALKS IN THE LANES OF MACH.4,CHI — ANTONIO BACINES INTRODUCES ME TO AN AMrmi'On — the DOGS OF MACHACHI . . . 100-119 CHAPTER VI. ON COTOFAXI AND ILLINIZ.V. the PROJECT — LOUIS BECOMES CONVALESCENT — WE GO TO THE FARM OF ROSARIO — COTOPAXI — ANGLES OF ITS SLOPES — ITS POSITION AND ERUPTIONS — ERUPTIONS IN 1877 — D.YRKNESS CAUSED BY CLOUDS OF EJECTED ASH — LAV.Y BOILS OVER THE RIM OF THE CRATER— THE FLOODS THAT ENSUE — FIR.ST ASCENT OF COTO- CVX TEXTS. x\-ii TAXI IIY lUl. W. KEISS — OTIIEU ASCENTS — ON ILLINIZA — I'ElirETUAL MISTS — WE EXCAlir AT 15,207 FEET — GLACIEKS ON ILLINIZA — TUFTED SXOW-COllNICES — DEFEATED — WEATHER IN THE INTERIOR OF ECUADOR . . Pages 120-135 CHAPTER VII. THE ASCENT OF COTOPAXI, AND A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT. .start for cotopaxi by fkeiherr von thielmanx's route — pedkegal — abund- ance of beetles on the plain of limi'iopongo — colpodes — bombs thrown out by cotupaxi — we camp at 15,130 feet — culinapvy troubles — the yanasache l.w.i and its sukroundings — ox volcanic "ash," dust.s, sands, and lapilli — the insinu.\ting nature of volcanic dust — descriptions by prof. t. g. bonney — the worship of the cross — native attire — shoes of string — prepar.4.ti0ns for the ascent — flora op the cone — the start — cumulus cloud seen 23,000 feet high — glaciers on cotopaxi — arrive at the terminal slope of ash — the prevalent winds — reach the edge of the crater and go partly round it — encamp at 19,500 feet — warmth of the cone — coldness of the air — a night on the summit — are we " habitu.^ted " ? — inspection of the crater by night — periodical .steam- blasts — descriptiou of the crater — "there was fire below " — a gbe.a.t safety-valve — ^the height of cotopaxi — descent to pedregal — some more "treasures"! ........ 136-156 CHAPTER VIII. THE FIRST ASCENT OF SINCHOLAGUA. A SEVERELY SCIENTIFIC ASCENT — THE OLD STYLE — GIANTS WANTED — SINCHOLAGUA — CROSS THE RIO PITA — DECEITFUL GROUND — WARM SPRINGS — MAUNER OF APPROACH TO THE SUMMIT — BEATEN BACK — THUNDER AND LIGHTNING — STEEPNESS OF THE IMMEDIATE SUMMIT — DEPARTURE FROM MACHACHI AND ARRIVAL AT QUITO ....... 157-166 CHAPTER IX. ON QUITO AND THE QUITONIANS. THE BASIN OF QUITO — POPULATION OF THE CITY — (iUEBRADAS — WATER AND , WATER-CARRIERS — THE PANF.CILLO — MANNEPo* AND CUSTOMS AT QUITO — A TRUCULENT INNKEEPER — OS HEAD-GEAR AND HATS — INTERVIEW WITH THE PRESIDENT — HOW GENERAL VEINTEMILLA CAME INTO POWER — HISTORY — GARCIA MORENO — DEMONSTRATIONS — A PROMISING PEOPLE — MANANA — ECUA- DORIAN BONDS — INDI.\NS AT QUITO — PRICliS IN ECUADOR — OPENINGS FOR COMMERCIAL ENTERPRIZE — ON B.\NKS AND MONEY — AN EASY WAY OF EARNING A DIVIDEND ........ 167-183 xviii CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. THE FIRST ASCENT OF ANTISANA. THE BASIN OF CHILLO — AGUIUKE's METEOKOLOGICAL OBSEKVATIONS IN THE COMPTEH BEtfDUS — A CHAMPION MUD-HOLE — THE HACIENDA OF PINANTURA — RENCONTRE WITH SESOR REBOLLEDO — THE GREAT LAVA - STREAM OF ANTI.SANILLA — Al:r.IVAL AT THE HACIENDA OF ANTISANA — THE CLOUDINESS OF ANTISANA — BEATEN ON OUR FIRST ATTEMPT AT AN ASCENT — ON SSOW-BLINDNESS — START AGAIN, AND CAMP AT 15,984 FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE SEA — ENORMOUS CREVASSES — "l FEAR AN AVALANCHE" — ARRIVAL ON THE SUMMIT — HIGH TEMPERATURES — THE HEIGHT OF ANTISANA — CRATERS AND CREVASSES — THE FLORA OF ANTISANA — ON CONDORS AND FLIGHTS OF THE IMAGINATION — THE RANGE IN ALTITUDE OF THE CONDOR — A GREAT, SOLEMN ASSEMBLY — THE COTTON FACTORY AT CHILLO — RETURN TO QUITO . . Pages 184-206 CHAPTER XL UPON AN ASCENT OF PICHINCHA. A CURE FOR SOUR BLOOD — REMINISCENCES OF CHICAGO — THE ROUTE TO PICHINCHA — ITS TWO SUMMITS, RUCU- AND GUAGUA — ENSILLADAS — A TAME CRATER — NATURE OF THE HIGHEST POINT — RECURRING SPECIES — HUMMING-BIRDS — SALT FISH FOR DINNER ....... 207-216 CHAPTER XH. THE FIRST ASCENT OF CAYAMBE. THE ROAD TO THE NORTH — CAYAMBE — CROSS THE GREAT QUEBRADA OF GUALLA- BAMBA — ECCENTRICITIES OF THE ANEROIDS — A FIGHT FOR THE CHAMPIONSHIP — SPORT IN ECUADOR — A POTATO BED — START FOR THE ASCENT OF CAYAMBE — MENACED BY A CONDOR — DISAPPEARANCE OF JEAN-ANTOINE AND ITS CON- SEQUENCES — INDIAN HOSPITALITY — INGRATITUDE — CAMP ON CAYAMBE AT 14,762 FEET — THE POINTK JAUllIN AND THE ESPINOSA GLACIER — ASCENT OF CAYAMBE (19,186 feet)— OUR FAsriiST ASCENDING KATE— SARA-UKCU— COLD QUARTERS ........ 217-237 CHAPTER Xm. THE FIRST ASCENT OF SARA-URCU. LIFE AT LA DUUMIDA (11,805 FEET) — EXPERIENCES OF GONZALO PI2Al:l!0 — THE TREASURES OF SARA-URCU— A CAMP IN A SWAMP — WATER-PAl!TlN(i ON THE EQUATOR — THE CHUSQUEA ARISTATA OF MUNRO — COKREDOU MACHAI (THE hunter's refuge) — THE FATE OF THE BARK HUNTERS — TICKLED — INCESSANT RAINS — THE CHIEF OF THE .STAFF IS ATTACKED IN THE REAR — A GLIMPSE OF SARA-URCU — TURNING AN ENEMY TO ACCOUNT — ARRIVAL ON THE SUMMIT — THE HEIGHT OF SARA-URCU — A SUPER-SATURATED PLACE — HUJUIOLDT's FIKE- PROOF FISH — Wild SllAl.l. niCrlllE WIIKX DOCTORS DISAGREE ! . 238-255 CONTENTS. xix CHAPTER XIV. ON THE TROVINCK OF IMBABURA, AND THE FIRST ASCENT OF COTOCACHI. IN QUEST OF AXTIQUITIES — DISCOVERY OF AN OLD INDIAN KETTLE ! — THE PRO- VINCE OF IMBABURA — GO TO COTOCACHI AND MAKE FRIENDS WITH THE PRIEST — THE LATEST THING IN QUEBRADAS — UPHEAVAL OR SUBSIDENCE ? — THE ASCENT OF COTOCACHI — THE WHIRLING SNOW MOCKS OUK EFFORTS — ON THE SUMMIT OF COTOCACHI (16,301 FEEt) — SUNDAY SPOUTS — THE TUMULI OF HUTANTAQUI — DESTRUCTION OF IBARRA — GO TO CARUANQUI — EVIDENCES OF A " STONE AGE" — STARS IN STONE — ARE THEY WEAPONS OR SYMBOLS? — TYPICAL STONE IM- PLEMENTS — HOUSEHOLD GODS — SCARCITY OF OBJECTS IN METAL — OLD INDIAN POTTERY — MUSICAL WHISTLES — " VASE-15USTS " — THE CONTENTS OF A GRAVE — A SMASH ON MOJANDA — PvETUBN TO QUITO . . . Pages 256-286 CHAPTER XV. A VISIT TO THE TYRAMIDS OF QUITO. JEAN-ANTOINE AND LOUIS ASCEND ILLINIZA — THE BASE-LINE OF THE FRENCH ACADEMICIANS — ERECTION OF THE PYRAMIDS OF QUITO — FUSS OVER THE IN.SCRIPTIONS — DESTRUCTION OF THE PYRAMIDS — DISCOVERY OF LA CONDAMINE's INSCRIBED STONE — ^THE MODERN PYRAMIDS — SELLING OFF — " NO TKUST GIVEN " — ^POPULATION OF ECUADOR — ENGAGE FRANCISCO JAVIER CAMPANA — FINAL DEPARTURE FROM QUITO ...... 287-295 CHAPTER XVI. UPON A WALK ON THE QUITO ROAD, AND A JOURNEY TO ALTAR. ANOTHER ATTEMPT ON ILLINIZA — DAVID's PEl' LLAMA — REPULSED — RATES ON ILLINIZA— A WALK ON THE QUITO ROAD— THE POLITICAL TAILOR— THE MASTER OF CANDEL.iRIA — AT CAMP IN THE VALLEY OF COLLANES (12,540 FEET) — DE.SCRIPTION OF ALTAR — RETREAT — A NIGHT AT PENIPE — HABITS OF THE ECUADORIAN MULE ....... 296-309 CHAPTER XVII. THE FIRST ASCENT OF CARIHUAIRAZO. WE RETURN TO THE CHARGE — AN HONEST INDIAN — CAMP NEAR THE HIGH ROAD AND MEASUREMENT FOR "A .SCALE" — HIGHW.VY ROBBERS — A THREATENED ATTACK — QUICK.SANDS — CAMP ON CARIHUAIR^VZO (13,377 FEET) — PEDRO DE PENIPE — .SARA-URCU TACTICS — ON THE SUMMIT OF CARIHUAIRAZO (16,515 feet) — AN INSULAR FLORA — A CRATER WANTED— JOY TURNED INTO MOURNING —OUK DOG BECOMES SNOW-BLIXD — CROSS ABRASPUNGO (14,480 FEET) — A GREAT LAVA-STRE.\M — FOURTH CAMP ON CIIIMBORAZO (14,359 FEET) — MONSIEUR DECEIVES HIMSELF !....... 310-319 C XX CONTENTS.- CHAPTER XVIII. ON THE SECOND ASCENT OF CHIMBORAZO. CHIMBORAZO FROM THE NOKTH-NOllTH-WE.ST — THE FIFTH CAMP (15,811 FEET) — PEDRO DECLINES AN ASCENT — AN ERUPTION OF COTOPAXI — CROSS THE GLACIER BE STiJBEL AND SEE THE PACIFIC — A GREEN SUN — DIRECTION OF THE WIND REGISTERED — A FALL OF VOLCANIC DUST ON THE TOP OF CHIMRORAZO REGISTERS THE HEIGHT OF THE BAROMETER — THE GREATEST HEIGHT AT WHICH PHOTOGRAPHY HAS BEEN PRACTISED — A CALCULATION — TWENTY-FIVE THOUSAND PARTICLES TO A GRAIN ! — CAUSE OF THIS ERUPTION — REDUCTION IN THE HEIGHT OF CHIMBORAZO — THE RATE OF THE SECOND ASCENT — ON A BAROMETRIC LEVEL — GREAT ARENALS— THE FLORA OF CHIMBORAZO — COMPLETE THE MEASUREMENT FOR "A SCALE" .... Pages 320-334 CHAPTER XIX. UPON SOME RESULTS OF THE JOURNEY. CONFIGURATION OF THE ANDES OF ECUADOR — PARALLEL CORDILLERAS — THE WALLS OF CHIMBORAZO — HUMBOLDt's TRIANGLE — ALTITUDES OP THE GREAT ANDES OF THE EQUATOR — TEMPERATURES ON SUMMITS — ON THE SNOW -LINE AND GLACIERS — BOTANICAL RESULTS — ZOOLOGICAL RESULTS — UPON OUR EXPERI- ENCES AT LOW PRESSURES ...... 335-384 CHAPTER XX. RETURN TO GUAYAQUIL— CONCLUSION. A PUBLIC DUTY — DEATH IN THE NIGHT — REMAINS OF A COMBAT — DESCENT THROUGH THE FOREST — THE LAST CAMP — THE BRIDGE OF CHIMBO AND THE ECUADORIAN RAILWAY — YOUR EXCELLENCY HAS FORGOTTEN TO PAY FOR THE PINE-APPLES ! — DEPARTURE FROM GUAY'AQUIL .... 385-392 APPENDIX. PAOE A. ALTITUDES DETERMINED IN ECUADOR ..... 395 B. THE RANGE OF THE BAROMETER IN ECUADOR .... 402 C. COMPARISONS OF THE ANEROID AGAINST THE MERCURIAL BAROMETER 405 D. UPON BOILING-POINT OBSERVATIONS . . . . . 417 E. TEMPERATURES IN ECUADOR ...... 421 F. UPON BODY TEMPERATURE ...... 425 G. Humboldt's attempt to ascend ciiiMiior.Azo . . . 428 H. BOUSSINOAULt's ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND CIUMIIORAZO . . . 431 I. DECLARATION OF FRANCLSCO J. CAMPANA .... 435 J. EXPERIMENTS IIY M. PAUL UKRT ..... 437 LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. The drawings were made by F. Babxard, a. Corbocld, F. Dadd, W. L. Joxes, W. E. Lapwobth, W. H. Overend, P. Skelton, E. Waoner, E. Wilson, Joseph Wolf, and Others ; and were Engraved on Wooti bv Edward Whymper. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. "The whirling snow mocked our efforts" (.see Chaji. XIV.) i?'; Chimborazo, from the slopes above Guakanda . . To fa Chimborazo, from a little above the third camp . "We were then twenty thousand feet high" Ice-cliffs under the summits of Chimborazo Carried on the litter into Ambato CoTOPAxi (19,613 feet), from the Hacienda of S. Rosario Part of the interior of the cr.vi'er of Cotopaxi . Part of the exterior of the crater of Cotopaxi . Antisana (19,335 feet), seen from the Hacienda . "They dashed in among.st them and threw their lassos" The second camp on Pichincha (14,992 feet) . "They prowled around us at night, and left their footprints in the snow " At camp on the Equator, at Corredor Machai Some typical Stone Implements collected in Ecuador . Examples of old Indian Pottery collected by the Author "It rolled over and over down the slope" . "The .sky was dark with the clouds of ash" The Southern "Walls of Chimborazo .... Selections from the bedroom collection at Guayaquil . ontispicce. ce page 24 64 90 1-24 147 150 190 205 209 229 242 271 279 285 326 337 391 IN THE TEXT. 1. On the way to Bodegas . 2. A young person of Guayaquil 3. A house at Bodegas . 4. At La Mona 5. A collector 6. Native house at Guaranda 7. Crossing the Gre.\t Arenal 8. Portrait op Alexander von Humboldt 9. The chief of the police . page 1 4 5 IS 19 28 37 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. •20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 4.5. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. The populace at Guaeanda One of our abeieros Aiguilles on Chimborazo .... The .second camp on Chimborazo (16,664 feet Manner of packing the barometers The right and the wrong kind of stand Method of suspension .... The thied camp on Chimborazo (17,285 feet) "Lower it would not go" Sangai in eruption The head of the expedition A ragamuffin at Chuquipoquio Back of the tambo of Chuquipoquio The entrance to the tambo Senor Juan Guerrero Duprat . A PUMICE FILTER AT AmbATO A "Bishop" of Ambato .... One of my young friends. Ecuadorian spur Carved drinkino-cup Ecuadorian riding-whip .... Section in the lane at Machachi . Machachi and Corazon .... Dressed rocks found on Corazon . Indian reed-pipes Snow-coenices CoTOPAXi IN eruption IN 1743 . An Academician observing the barometer A BOMB from Cotopaxi .... CoTOPAXI from the FIRST CAMP An alpargata The FIRST camp on Cotopaxi (15,139 feet) Position of the text on the summit of Goto "There was fire below" Plan of the crater of Cotopaxi Indian crucifix .... The bells of Pedeegal Sincholagua, from near Pedregal The siTMMiT OF Sincholagua At Pedeegal .... Entrance to the Hacienda, Pedreg ecuadorienne earrings PAGE 39 40 41 48 54 55 56 60 69 74 SO 81 85 88 92 95 96 100 102 102 103 104 108 110 119 120 128 135 136 137 143 144 149 151 152 156 157 161 163 165 166 167 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 52. The old WATER-CAuniEn at Quito 53. A LADY OF Quito 54. poetkait of garcia jiuuexo 55. Ecuadorian hand-made lace 56. Beetle-wixg earring . 57. The Hacienda of Antisana 58. Our best nocturnal collector 69. Diagram to illustrate flight of the Condor 60. Snow-spectacles . 61. PiCHINCHA, from MaCHACHI 62. On the road 63. Champions . 64. Ingratitude 65. Cayambe (19,186 feet) from the west 66. Charms? 67. La Dormida de JIayorazzo 68. A hind-leg of a spider from Corredok Mach 69. Saea-urcu, from Corredor Machai . 70. Turning an enemy to account 71. Fountain on the Plaza at Carranqui 72. " This is very old, Senor ! " . 73. Lance-point found at Quito 74. CoTocACHi, from Carranqui 75. Stars in stone 76. Some unusual forms of Stone Implemen 77. Tool-sharpeners ? . . . . 78. Maize-heads in stone 79. Heads in .stone, from Riobamba 80. The head of an old Indian silver pin 81. Six-rayed star in bronze . 82. Bronze hatchets from Cuenca . 83. Ordinary forms of old Indian pottery 84. Some of the less common forms 85. Ornamentation of pottery 86. Indian musical whistles . 87. The Don pot 88. Double-headed jar or vase 89. The contents of a grave . 90. The Inca vase 91. The money-box 92. La Condamine's In.scribed Stone 93. Plan, section, and elevation of the Pyramids of Quito xxni PAGE 169 171 174 179 183 184 200 203 206 207 216 217 228 233 237 238 243 247 248 256 257 258 263 269 273 274 275 276 277 277 278 278 279 280 281 282 283 284 285 286 287 289 xxiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 94. The Pyramid of Oyambaho, ix 1880 95. a stampede 96. At camp in the Valley of Collases 97. The bridge of Penipe 98. a thr>e.atened attack ..... 99. Plan of camp 100. CAKIHU.ilKAZO, FROM THE .SOUTH 101. The FOURTH camp ox Chimboeazo (14, -359 feet) 102. Chimborazo, from the xoeth-north-^vest 103. Commencement of the eruption of Cotopaxi, july 3, 104. A Pha.sma from La Dormida, Cayambe . 105. Humboldt's triangle 106. Jean-Antoine and the babies .... 107. FOKCEPS OF AN EaRWIG FROM CaY'AMBE . 108. Earwig from 13,353 feet on Chimborazo 109. PiBRIS A'ANTHODICB, LuCAS .... 110. A Moth from 12,000 feet on Pichincha 111. Moths from 14,500 feet on Cotocachi, and Scmmi 112. Hyalella ixermis, S. I. Smith 113. COLIAS ALTICOLA, GoDMAN & SaLVIN 114. COLIAS DIIIERA, DOUBL. & He\V. 115. A tropical dream 116. "We came again into the land of butterflies 117. Certificates of examination of Barometer No. 558 118. Chimbor.azo, from Guayaquil .... 1880 PlCHI PAGE 292 296 305 308 310 312 317 318 320 323 335 340 344 354 355 357 358 359 361 364 364 385 388 397 442 MAPS, ETC. 1. General map of Ecuador, Colombia, &c. . . . To face page 1 2. Plan of Quito, after Father J. B. Menten ... ,, 167 3. Map of the Pp.oyince of Quito, by Don Pedro Maldonado. At end of vol. 4. Route Map to illu.strate " Travels amongst the Gre.\t Andes." In pockd. TEAVEL8 AMONGST THE GEEAT ANDES Stm/vrdk Gtonrnpfucal Estah' En^sliMilps UNIVEESITI ON THE WAY TO BODEGAS. CHAl'TEi; I. We laii(kMl at (_luayai|uil on DeceinliLT 9, LSTO, after an uu- eveutful voyage across the Atlantic, and an luiexpected deten- tion upon the Isthmus of Panama.^ Our ship had scarcely anchored before a Custom House otticer sought me out, to deliver an ornate speech ; which cimnnenced, according to the manner of the country, with declarations that he himself, his property, and other things besides were mine, and terminated with the welcome intelligence that he had been ordered to pass my liaggage without examination, and i'ree of duty. Guayaquil is the chief port of the llepulilic of the Equator (Ecuador), and is second iii population only to the capital, Quito.- In 1879, it was a very busy place. The war between ' See The Contcmporanj Bevicw, J[aix-li, 1889. ^ It ainicaicd to me to have aliout "28,000 inhabitants. Ko census luis. I Ijclieve, yet been taken in Ecuador. All statements in regard to the iio[>uIation are to be received with caution. B 2 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. i. Peru and Chili caused a large accession of trade, and filled it with a horde of refugees. Lodgings were scarcely to be had for money, and services were difficult to procure. Life seemed too easy for the lower orders at this place. At very trifling expense they can breakfast on chocolate, dme on bananas and cocoa-nut, and fall back at night on pine -apples. Lodging is not a difficulty with them, and dress is almost superfluous in a climate so equably warm. The elders go about in very light attire, and the young people appear in the streets in the earliest mode of Eden. "W^ji'lcnien set an exorbitant value on their ser^dces, and tlie vei'y lal.iourers expected to be paid at the rate of little English Bishops. Not much was wanting to perfect our arrangements. Our principal need was a third man, as interpreter and general assist- ant, and it was supplied liy Mr. Perring, an Englishman who liad lived many years in Ecuador, and had frequently acted as Go\'ernment courier between Guayaquil and Quito. This matter settled, there was time to look aljout, and I betook inj-self daily to the highest accessible ground — a hill at the northern end of the town — to endeavour to get a view of the Andes, and especially of Chimborazo. Up to this time we had scarcely had a glimpse of tlic Andes. On the first half of the voyage from Panama our course was at too great a distance from the coast ; and, on approaching the Equatoi', altliough the nearer parts of the outer ranges could be discerned, their tops were in cloud, and the great snow - peaks were invisible. Several Captains of the Mail Steamers, who had long experience, said that they had only seen Chimljorazo from the Pacific Ocean on three or four occasions in the course of thirteen or fourteen years ; and Mr. Chambers told me that the mountain was not commonly seen at Guayaquil more than fince or twice a month. I proposed to make my way to Chimborazo by the ordinary route to Quito, rid Bodegas and Guaranda. From Guayaquil CHAP. I. SOME SKAKE STORIES. 3 to Bodegas one takes the steamer, up the Guayas, and for the rest of the way transit is effected liy horses, mules, or dnnkeys. As the rainy season was abont to commence, and would impede or almost stop traffic whilst it lasted, there was an unusual demand for liaggage animals, and it was expedient to arrange beforehand, to avoid detention at Bodegas. So Ave remained at Guayaquil, until infoimation arrived that our train was read)'. Whilst waiting for news from Bodegas, I prowled about the outskirts of the town in search of snakes, lieing desirous of acquiring the handsome and venomous " Coial " which had not hitherto been acclimatized in Europe.' I did not see a live snake of any sort or description whilst at Guayaquil. It was the end of the dry season, and they had gone out of town for a time ; lint I understood from Mr. Chamliers that he liad many Coral snakes on his property, and could spare a few without inconvenience, and he ijromised to have a li\'ing specimen ready against our return to Guayacpiil.- ' A few years ago, a French traveller — Moiis. Andre — made an endeavour to introduce it from Colombia. ■ His specimen arrived alive at Lille, where the French douaniers, .suspecting conti'aband, insisted ripon opening the bo.x in which it was secured. The snake immediately made its appearance, to take a look around, and the douaniers retired. It then walked out, and disappeared, and was heard of no more. This, according to M. Andre, was the first attempt to introduce the Coral snake into Europe. See Le Tour du, Monde, vol. 35, p. 182, Paris, 1878. ^ Unfortunately, when that time came, they were too shy and could not be caught. Mr. Chambers was good enough to despatch another equally venomous reptile after me, to soothe my disappointment. The following sad story, how- ever, came to hand instead of the snake. It seems that it was shi[iped in a box by one of tlie Mail Steamers, and, being regarded with suspicion, was placed in a boat hanging from the davits. In the course of the voyage, about a dozen little snakes made their d^but, and, after crawling through a small knot-hole in the box, \vi-iggled along the davits, and thence on to the deck. In the morning, when passengers came out to exercise, tliey found snakes already in possession. Quartermasters were set to clear them out, but one little snake managed to bite the second officer, and caused his arm to swell so much that he had to be taken on shore at Panama and be put in hospital. No one would venture to approach the box with the parent snake. The plug was knocked out of the bottom of the boat and it was TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. On December 13 we received advice that our animals were ready, and left Gnayaquil the same afternoon on board the river-steamer Quito, witli a lai'ge and very miscellaneous freight/ and arrived aliout midnight at Bodegas. Opposite to Guayaquil the Guayas is a noble river, more than a mile and a quarter across, with good depth of water. It is joined Just above the town Ijy its principal trilui- tary, the Eiver Uaide, and beyond the junction, tliough remaining fully a mile wide, it becomes shallow. At a distance of aliout thirteen miles N.N.E. of Guayaquil it recei^'es the waters of an- other important trilnitnry, the Eiver Yaguachi, a stream which is formed by the union of the Chimbo and Chanchan. In their upper courses, tliese rivers are only mountain torrents — lowered into the sea. The box floated away and drifted on to Flamenco I., off Panama, where some residents fired throngh and through it until the .snake was killed. Mr. Chambers subsequently received a special request not to ship any more passengers of that class. ^ The war in Peru caused an exodus of Italian organs from Lima, and thirty refugee iustruments landed at (iuayaquil just before our arrival. Four of these were on board the Quito, concentrated on the fore part of the upper deck, each playing a dilferent tune. The Ecuadorians enjoyed the babel, but the alligators in the river seemed more sensitive. They came up and stared with open mouths, and plunged down again inimediatcl}', out of hearing. The Guayas and its tributaries are full of alligators. On a trip up the river in July, 1880, I saw a large sandbank completely covered by a horde of them, lying peaceably alongside each othi'r. The natives do not seem to be trouliled by their proximity, though it is admitted they do occasionally chew incautious children. A YOUNG PERSON OF GUAYAQUIL. BODEGAS 1)E BADAHOYO. tlie Chimbo being the more important of tlie two, and taking the drainage of the wliole of the eastern slopes of the Pacific Range of Ecuador, and of the western sk)pes of the great block of mount- ains to tlie south of Chimljorazo. Above the junction of the Yaguachi the Guayas becomes narrower, though it still remains quite 2000 feet across for some miles above Zamborondon. It then brandies out into the flat land in numerous canal-like rami- fications, and by the time Bodegas is reached dwindles down to insignificant duuensions. Althougli we had approached more closely to the Andes we still saw nothing of them. On the lower reaches of the river this was not to be wondered at, for the land was being cleared by firing, prior to the advent of the rains, and clouds of smoke rose thousands of feet in the air, obscuring everything, except the banks close at hand. At Bodegas we got beyond this ; the sun shone brilliantly, but not a sign of a mountain could be seen, though I shortly found that we were less than thirty-five miles from summits 14-15,000 feet above the sea. Chimliorazo, I was told, eouhl Ite seen from Bodegas, and Ixire from that place N.E. by E., or thereabouts. The town of Bodegas de Baljahoyo (called for lirevity Bodegas) contains about 2000 inhabitants. It is the ^^R'^^^H. cnt repot of Quito, where goods are temporarily stored, and where a numlier of agents dwell whose business it is to receive goods from the steamers and to ar- range for their transit into the interior. In the rainy season, tlie river rises here frdin A HOUSE AT BODEGAS. G TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. i. 30 to 35 feet, and, overflowing its Imiiks, turns the country into a vast lake. Hence many of the houses in this district are built on piles or posts. The area over which the floods extend is indicated by the houses that are constructed in this manner. We left Bodegas at 1.20 p.m. on Decemljer 14, and crossing by a bridge to the right bank of the river commenced the journey over some open, flat, sandy ground. All went comfort- alily for a time. Jean-Antoine Carrel headed the caravan, mounted,' carrying one of the mercurial liarometers and some other instruments ; I followed, similarly equipped ; then came the" baggage animals, and the muleteers (arrieros) with Louis and Perring brought up the rear. Just one hour after the start, when we were jogging cpiietly along, the leading mule suddenly became possessed by ten thousand devils, and rushed hither and thither, throwing its heels high in the air; and succeeding in loosening its load, which turned round under its belly, it then commenced a series of violent fore and aft movements with its hoofs, to try to pulverize my photographic camera, and the other things which it carried. In course of time we got to regard such episodes as a part of the daily routine. The most outrageous jjerformers were generally the animals with the lightest loads; and, unless their extravagancies were promptly checked, their example became contagious, and the whole troop scattered, some galloping away, while the rest engaged themselves in madly battering their loads with the intention of dislodging them. A load on the Quito road usually weighs more than 300 lbs., and we prol>ably com- mitted a mistake in giving our lieasts too little to carry in the low country.^ ' In ordor to travel quickly, a cousiderable part of my baggage Wiis sout out in advance, and was placed in secure hands at Guavauda and (Jnito. I am much indebted to Mr. Theakston, a forwarding agent at Bodegas, for his atten- tions there and at other places. ^ All my oases were made with a view to transit by mules, and none weighed more than 1Z lbs. Two of these and a few small articles were .allotted to each CHAP. I. ALL ALIVE. 7 We made a short inaruli on the first day, and stopped al.iout 4 p.m. at the little, straggling village La Mona. Our house stood on posts, and like most others in this neighljourhood was built of bamboo, and was thatched with leaves. We passed the night, according to the custom of the country, in string ham- mocks, which were slung on the verandah on the first floor. Sleep was enli\'ened liy superabundant animal life. Bats flapped AT LA MONA. our faces, and thousands of insects swarmed dnwn upon the candles, while scuttling things of sorts ranged the floor and invaded our lii3ots. A change was made in our arrangements next day. From this time onwards, Jean-Antoine took charge of both the mer- curial barometers, to leave me free to attend to the details of auiiual. Tliius our loads seldom ^\■t'^ghed moro than 160 lbs., and this was as much as was good at gi'eat elevations. I saw many donkeys on the Quito road carrying eight dozens of wine or beer in four cases. Sucli loads cannot liavc wuighed less than 280 lbs. 8 TllAVELS AMONGST THE QUE AT ANDES. chap. i. the caravan whilst passing along " the Iloyal Eoad." This is the title which has been given for many generations to the route from Bodegas to Guaranda. Altliongh republican Ecua- dorians have done nuicli. levelling, and amongst other things have abolished titles of nobility, they have omitted to level their loads, and cling with curious tenacity to the pompous title of this primitive track. In the matter of mud it did not come up to expectations. It was not so pre-eminently filthy as to be entitled to precedence over all other roads in this country ; though it certainly was, in some parts, what Ecua- dorians call 'savoury.' The nuul is compounded of decaying animal and vegetable matter, churned up with earth, and tiie product is a greasy and captivating slime. The interesting series of ridges — termed cameUoncs — crossing the track at right angles to its course, are generally considered by travellers to have been originated by the regular tread of animals.^ Typical examples ha\'e a furrow of liquid mud upon each side of a ridge of slippery S(jil, with a difference of level of two feet or more between the ti ip of the ridge and the bottom of the furrows ; and man and licast struggle over the one and wallow in the others upon this r/rande route to the intericir. The traffic at this time was considerable Ijoth upwards and downwards, and the loads were often very miscellaneous in char- acter. Champagne assorted with iron bedsteads seemed to tiavel well, while sheets of corrugated iron laid flat across the backs of donkeys gave rise to much bad language in narrow places. Coming down from the interim', on their way to the coast, we met numerous teams, often twenty ov thirty in a troop, bringing huge bales of quinine bark, accompanied by gangs of mdvcmpt ^ Though they are maintained and deepened hy the tread of animals, it is questionable if they were originated by them. Upon some new road which was being made to the south of Otovalo, I noticed furrows being dug, and there were ah-eady amongst tliem (without the assistance of traffic) many first-class ]iuddles, which promised to make this, in a short time, a worthy continuation of "the Koyal Road." CHAP. I. A ROYAL ROAD. 9 Indians, wIid Imnilily cloH'ed tliuir huts as they passed by. All day liin!4', in I'lont ur liehind, there eimld he heard a subdned murmur of snortings, braying, smashing, and objurgation; and from time t(.) time, at fresh bends in the road, another caravan would appear, — horned cattle doing duty as well as horses, asses, and mules — the e.xchunations and whi))- cracking became louder, A COLLECTOR. and we could distinguish the cries of tlie arrieros — their ' lUuTos ! ' and 'liurras!' ' ilula ha has,' and ' Cholos,' mingled witli many 'Lados!' and expressions wliich will not bear translation. For most of the way from ]5odegas to .Sa\"aneta the linyal road was just such a lieaten track as may be seen on many English commons. Ne.xt it led through shady jungle, and after riayas was passed it began to rise, jungle gi-adually changed to forest, and tlie road became damp, dirty, and confined. AVhen a gleam of sunlight pierced the interlaced branches, we could C 10 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. I. see the great Morplws sailing in security amongst tlie hooks and spines of the tropical vegetation, and cpipliytals thriving in gloom on stagnant air. But we could not tarry, for the rains had already commenced, and every one advised us to press on.^ The second night found us at Munapamha, a regular stopping- place, 1337 feet above the sea, where a hut, called a Tambo, was surrounded by a motley throng of beasts, and bipeds who were practising the revolting habit that is referred to more par- ticularly in Chapter IV. ; and we passed an uneasy night in the open air upon plank beds, which were the only couches known at this establishment. At 7 a.m., on Dec. 16, we left the tambo, and crossed to the right bank of a little stream, called the S. Jorge Eiver. The Andes were still invisible, although we were actually upon their lower slopes. Everything was enveloped in mist, and a few ' In consequence of having been detained for ten days ujiou the Isthmus of Panama, we only just escaped tlie coast wet season. The intention to collect en route was abandoned, as we were constantly warned by persons we met on the road that rain was falling heavily on the mountains. Amongst the few species secured on the first day's journey, there have been found an undescribed Ant (Camponotus), a Bug {Pnohirmus), and two Beetles {Epitracjus and PrionoaUus). These are described and figured in the Suiiplementary Appendix which is published simultaneously with this volume. The Frioiwcaliis that is described by Mr. H. W. Bates under the name P. trigonodcs was picked up close to La Mona. It is one of the larger of known beetles, and being tlie finest we got during the day I looked at it attentively while putting it into alcohol. It gathered its limbs together, and, appeared to expire almost instantaneously, without a struggle. The same happened with nearly everything that was obtained in Ecuador, with lizards, frogs, fish, etc., as well as with insects. The genus Prionocalus was foniuU'd by Adam White upon specimens received from Mexico. It has also been found in Peru, and some j-ears ago Mr. Water- house described a fine species from Ecuador (locality unknown, but supposed to have been on the eastern or Amazonian side of the Andes) under the name P. Buckhyi, from specimens collected by the late Mr. Buckley. I obtained P. BucMcyi at the height of about 4000 feet on the Royal road, and subscciuently, through a collector, a thu-d species of the geims, which was taken at the height of about 6000 feet, in the couutry to the west of Quito. CHAP. I. THE HOTEL ON THE HILL. 11 Imuilred yards was the most one could see in any direction. Tlie path rose more steeply and continuously than upon passes wliich are commonly traversed by mules in the Alps, and degenerated as we ascended. It became a mere rut, hollowed out on the face of the mountain, without pro\"isi()n for drainage, and was left entirely to take care of itself. Earth that fell on to it from the banks at the side was trodden into the general filth. If pools accumulated, there they remained. Animals dying cji route were left to rot, and were not removed. We passed two disidilcd mules, stuck fast, abandoned to their fate. In two hours from Munapamlia we arrived at the village of Balsaliamlaa, and after a brief halt continued the steep ascent; soon after noon entering the zone where rain had been falling during the last eight days, and then every one firessed forward to seek the nearest shelter, at Tambo Loma. Wiiilst toiling up the greasy zigzags, we were overtaken by a genial man, made up of straps and buckles, who was riding extra-post to Quito, and were guided by him across the quagmire that surrounded the "Hotel on the Hill" to the pi'incipal apartment, a window- less den about nine feet square and six feet high. There was neither bed nor laedding, food nor firing at this place.^ We slept on our packing-cases. On the morning of the I7th we quitted Tamlio Loma soon after daybreak, piloted by the friendly courier. The muleteers said that the road was nearly impassable, and during a rise of 3000 feet we found it a morass, a sea of mud, iuti) which our animals sank up to their knees or deeper. At length, when a little less than 10,000 feet above the level of the sea, we gradu- ally topped the mists, and obtained our first \'iew in the Andes. ' An Ecuadorian tambo is meant to give shelter to drovers and mnle-drivers. Tliese classes commonly carry food with them, for economy, and are content to sleep in pig-styes. The tambo meets their requirements, and seldom contains accommodation or food for the few others who travel in Ecuador. At La Mona we put up at a private house. Savaueta, Playas, Munapamba, and Balsabamba are recognized stopjiing-places, and have tambos. 12 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap.:. Ill a dim way, we could make out the buttress on which Tambo Loma was placed ; but, although overlooking tlie mists, we could see neither the tamlio, nor Munapamba at the liottoin of the valley, the flat land, the Pacific, nor anything to the west except mist, — liglit and thin above, dense and black below. Towards the east it was nearly clear. A few luuidred feet above us, our road led to a gap, or pass in the mountains. We made at once for this place, and in a few minutes left the steaming Pacific slopes Ijehind, and passed, as it were, into' another world. Tlie ^•iew from this place was a revelation. From Bodegas until our arrival at this spot we had not been alile to see as much as a mile in any direction. We passed through forest ; the track constantly rose ; the barometers told us we were getting high ; but in what direction our road would lead, whether it would keep to the east, north-east, or south-east, was not known. From the existing maps of Ecuador^ it did not appear that any impiirtant mountains intervened between Guaranda and the coast, and until this moment I had supposed that the western slopes of Chimborazo led continuously towards the Pacific. For the liest authority upon this parti- cular district, Mr. llichard Spruce, says " On tlie western side " (of Chimliorazo) " I can find no positive lireak from the summit down to the plain. Tliere is no intervening salient peak, and no ridge whose origin may not be traced to the peak (if (Jhini- ' Namely, the map by Don Pedro Maldoiiado, the map in La Condamine's Voyage, and the map accompanying tlie work Gcografia dc la Hrpiihlim del Ecuador, liy Manuel Villavicencio, New York, 1858. In the jiortion ol" the Maldonado map that I have reproduced (which is placed at the end of this volume), it will be seen there is no suggestion of an important range of mount- ains to the immediate w-est of Chimborazo and the valley of the R. Chinibo, and in several places, notably just north of the words R. Yaguachi, the map suggests flat, forest-covered land. On the map of La Condamine this district has evidently lieen copied from Maldonado, and some of the hill -work given by the latter authority is abolished, making the land appear flatter still ; and in the Villavicencio map this process is still further carried out, and there appears to be nothing except \inimportant hills between Guayaquil and Chimborazo. CHAP, I. THE PACIFIC RAXGE OF ECUADOR. 13 borazo." ^ In this matter he is, howe\"er, incorrect. It is more conv-enient to give at this point all that need be said on the subject than to recur to it again. The place where our road crossed the mountains was a true pass, leading through a gap, from the head of one valley on the western to another on the eastern side of a large and important range of mountains. Two small huts on its summit were termed Tamlio Gobierno.^ I read the two mercurial barometers here at 10 a.m., and there was a nearly corresponding (11 a.m.) observation by Mr. Chambers at Guayaquil, and from these ol_iser\'ations it appears that the height of Tambo Gobierno is 10,417 feet. A short distance from us, both to the north and to the south, there were points from 1000 to 1500 feet higher; and to the north, I fimnd suliserpiently, the general elevation of the range increased, and that there were a number of summits 13-14,000 feet above the level of the .sea, — some, I believe, closely approaching the height of 1-5,000 feet. The general elevation diminishes when proceeding southwards, though it re- mains considerable to its furthest extremity, where the Elver Chimbo, suddenly changing from a nearly north and south coiirse to an east and west one, skirts its base. At this end, the slopes rise abruptly from a few liundred feet above the level of the sea to 7-8000 feet, and are magnificently wooded. On December 19 and 26, when proceeding from Guaranda to Chimborazo, I had unclouded views of the eastei-n side of this range ; and from Dec. 27 to January 12, whilst encamped upon Chimborazo, I commanded and looked down upon the eastern side of the whole of the northern part of it. In the following 'Tuly, whilst making the circuit of Chimborazo, I saw that that mountain was everywhere well separated from the ' See l>ai;c 7 of his lieport on the expedition to procure, seeds anel piaiils of the Ciiiehona siieeiruhra, or Heel Bark Tree, London, 1861. - They contained accommodation for neither man nor Ijcast, and notliing edilile e.\cei)t one very shrivelled, old Indian woman. 14 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. I. range on its west; and subsequently, after skirting the great block of mountains to the south of Chiniborazo, I came upon the range again at the Bridge of Chimbo, passed around its southern extremity, and saw its western slopes at that end dying out in the neighbourhood of Barraganetal. They also extend as far as Muiiapamba. Its northern extremity, and north-western slopes, I have not seen at all. The range has, however, an ascertained length from north to south of 65 miles, and is in breadth 18 to 20 miles — that is to say, it is at least twice the length and breadth of the range of Mont Blanc. The range is bounded on the east by the valley of the Eiver Chimbo, and the course of this valley is well seen in the neighbourhood of Guaranda. To the north of that town it opens out into a very large basin, which receives the whole of the drainage of the western side of Chimborazo. South of Guaranda, the valley for a long distance runs north and south. At Guaranda the river is 8530 feet, and at Chimbo (formerly called the Bridge of Chimbo), according to the Eailway authorities, it is 1130 feet above the level of the sea. These facts suffi- ciently show that Chimborazo itself, and the great massif of which it is the cidminating point, are sepai-ated by a large and profound valley from the range of which I have spoken ; and, as this range is not yet known Ijy any distinctive appellation, I propose to call it the Pacific Eange of Ecuador.-' At Tandjo Gobierno we passed as it were into another world. The slopes of the Pacific Eange were densely wooded right up to theu' crests on the side facing the Ocean, while their eastern ones were almost absolutely bare of vegetation. In a few hundred yards the track lost its royal character, and on the other side of the ridge became as dry as the Sahara. A good, made road down a steep lateral valley led us through the ' The stream near Chiinlio marked Agua Clara on my map, is a monntain torrent gushing out of the southernmost extremity of tlie Pacific Range, and now supplies Guayaquil with water. CHAP. I. MAPti OF ECUADOR. 15 village of S. Miguel to the largei' one of S. Jose, where we halted for food ; and we then pushed on in advance of our caravan, arriving just before nightfall at the small town of Guaranda, tlie place which I intended to use as a liase for attack upon Chiniborazo.' NOTE UPON THE MAPS OF ECUADOR. jVIost modern maps of Ecuador are leased upon those of M. de la Condamine and Don Pedro Maldonado. The former of these, on a scale of about nineteen geographical miles to an inch, was published in 1751, at Paris, in the work Journal du voyage fait par ordre du roi a I'Ecpiateur, servant d'introduction historique a la mesure des trois premiers degres du meridien, and was entitled Carte de la Province de Quito au Perou, dressee sur les Observations astronomiques, Mesures geographiques, Journaux de route et Memoires de Mr de la Condamine, et sur ceux de Don Pedro Maldonado. Par Mr d'Anville de I'Acad. Imperiale de Petersbourg. ' I give below oiu' times between the several places wliich have been mentioned. A single horseman, or a pedestrian, would not occupy so long, more especially if proceeding in the reverse direction. Bodegas to La Mona, 2 hoiu's 40 min. ; La Mona to Savaneta, 2 lis. ; Savaneta to Playas, 2 lis. ; Playas to Miiiiapamba, 4 hs. ; JIunapamba to Balsaljaniba, 2 hs. ; Balsabamba to Tambo Loma, 3 lis. 30 mill. ; Tambo Loma to Taiiilio Gobierno, 2 hs. 45 min. ; Tambo Gobieriio to S. Jose de Chimbo, 2 hs. 30 min. ; and thence to Guaranda, 3 hours. The following shade temperatures were observed, in the open air : — ec. 14. La Mona 83° Faht. at S p.m. „ 15. do. ... "2° „ 4 a.m. )) J) do. ... 74° ,, ,, 7 „ )1 ]) Playas .... 78-5 ,, ,, noon. „ 16. Muilapaniba (1337 feet) 70° „ ,, 6.45 a.m. ,, ,, Tambo Loma (6S50 ,, ) 62-5 ,, ,, 7 p.m. „ 17. do. ... 59-5 ,, 4 a.m. ,, ,, do. . . . 60° „ 5.30 a.m. J J) Tambo Gobierno (10,417 feet) 60° ,, , , 10 a.m. . .1 S. Jose de Chimbo (8200 .> ) 65° ,, ,, 1.45 p.m. 16 TRAVELii AMUNGST THE GREAT ANDES. chai'. I. The latter map, in four sheets, on a scale of about twelve geographical miles to an inch, extending from 2° N. Lat. to 6° S. Lat., was published in Paris in 1750, imder the title Carta de la Provincia de Quito y de sus adjacentes. Olira pusthuma de Don Pedro Maldonado, Gentilliombre de la Caniara de S. Mag. y Governador de la Prov. de Esmeraldas. Hecha sobre las Observaciones Astronomicas y Geograficas de los Academicos Eeales de las Ciencias de Paris y de las Guardias Mar. de Cadiz y tambien de los PJi. PP. Missioneros de Maynas. En que la Costa desde la Boca de Esmeraldas hasta Tumaco con la Derrota de Quito al Maraiion, por una senda de k pie de Banos a Canelos, y el curso de lus llios Bobonaga y I'astaija van delineados sobre las proprias demarcaciones del difunto Autor. Sacada a luz por orden, y a expensas de su Magestad. m.dccl. These two maps were constructed from the same material, and (although differing in some matters of detail) are nearly identical. In M. de la Condamine's Journal dii Voyage frequent reference is made to ]\Ialdonado (see vol. 1, pp. 110, 141-2, and 208-210) and to his share in the production of these map.?. In general, the central portion of the I'egion which is represented is based upon the work of tlie Academicians, whilst the remainder is largely due to Maldonado. Two different classes of work, of very different degrees of value, have been embodied ; namely (1) triangulation of tlie most precise character, starting from a long and carefully -measured base, checked by a base of verification ; and (2) sui'\-eys of tlie rougher kinds, made by the less accurate methods. La Condamine says that Maldonado was a " Creole du Pcrou." He was for some time Governor of the district of Esmeraldas, and devoted himself to discovering a more du'ect road to Quito from the Pacific tiian tliat vid Guayaquil, which was then, as it is still, the route in general use. He succeeded in doing so, aud concurrently made extensive topographical observations. Afterwards, in company with La Condamine, he descended the CHAP. I. DON PEDRO MALDOXADO. 17 Amazons, and assisted in tlie survey of that ri\'er, and then proceeded to Europe to introduce his new way from Panama to Quito to notice in Spain. He went to Paris to superintend the production of his map ; and, after other travels, came to London, and died there of fever on Nov. 17, 1748, aged about forty years. He had been elected a Corresponding Member of the French Academy of Sciences, and at the time of his deatli was about to be proposed at the Royal Society. In constructing the Route Map which accompanies and illustrates this volume I have put the maps of La Condamine and Maldonado entirely on one side, and have commenced afresh. I have used the Latitudes of La Condamine for Quito and Riobamba, and have adopted 79° 52' 27" W. as the Longitude of Guayaquil. The details have been filled in from my own observations (principally angles taken with a transit theodolite) except such courses of rivers as are given in dotted lines. Many of my names will not be found in earlier maps, and in the positions both of towns and mountains I frequently differ from my predecessors. As nearly every town, ^'illage or inn is given on the route from Guayaquil to Quito, this route map may be found of some service by persons travelling between the coast and the capital. The Map of Chimborazo has been constructed from my own observations liy Mr. Turnbull under IMr. Bolton's direction at Stanford's Geographical Establishment. Its scale depends upon a measurement made on the Quito road, between Chuquipoquio and Mocha. The Plan of the Glacier de Debiis on Chimborazo has been constructed by myself from my own observations, and its scale depends upon a base of 600 feet which I measured below our Second Camp, upon the western side of the glacier. I have thought it desirable for the furtlier illustration of my narrative, and for comparison, to give in fac- simile the central portion of the Maldonado map. This has been reproduced from D 18 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. the copy in the Map Eooiu of the British Miiseiini. The road by which the Governor of Esmeraklas hoped to benefit his country {cainino nucve de Quito) will be seen indicated in the neighbourhood of the Equator, leading from Nono to the Eio Blanco (a branch of the E. Esnieraldas). It has never c(jine into general use. Mr. Stevenson was deputed in 1809 to le- exaniine it, and he reported favourably (see Historical and descriptive narrative of twenty years' residence in South America, by W. B. Stevenson, Lond., 1829, vol. 2, pp. 355-7, etc.); but down to the present time the circuitous route vid Guayaquil has been preferred. NATIVE HOUSE AT CUARANDA. CROSSING THE GKKAT AKKNAL. CHAPTER II. FROM GUARANDA TO THE FIRST CAMP ON CHIMBORAZO. The tiiwu of Guarancla seemed very lifeless, although it had about 2000 inhabitants, and I ventured to remark to an assistant at the inn ^ that it appeared dull, meaning that there was an absence of trade and traffic. " It is, your Excellency," said the dirtj' waiter, "it is deploral>Iy dull; but to-night some clioice spirits will come in, and loill kick up a delighffid row." His master remains in my recollection as a person of unusual candour. There had been some difficulties over an account that he had presented to the representative of a foreign power just liefoi'e our arrival, but he tendered no paltry excuses, and roundly declared that Consuls, Mmisters, and all that sort of thing must ' At tins place tlicre was an inn, wliere meals could lie liad. The beds were objectionable, and the apartments were filthy. "We passed the night in the open gallery on our packing-cases, and on Dec. 18 transferred ourselves to a house which I engaged during our stay. 20 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. n. pay double, — a fact which members of the diplomatic serNace will do well to remember when they pass his way. Guaranda had been fixed upon as headquarters for a time because it was reported to be nearer to Chunborazo than any other town or village. The road to Quito leads through it, and passes over the southern extremity of the mountain, across a plain called " the Great Arenal." The highest point of this was commonly estimated to be about 14,000 feet above the level of the sea. We were therefore assured of being able to transport our baggage to that elevation without calling upon the natives to do anything unusual. How niucli higher we should be alile to utilize them depended upon the nature of the lower slopes ; and as we had no information about them, and did not know how far we were from the mountain, we set out at 4.30 a.m. on tlie 19th to reconnoitre. It will seem almost incrediUe that we should have approached so closely to Chimborazo without obtaining a glimpse of it. Prescott says^ it affords a magnificent prospect to the mariner on the Pacific Ocean. It was invisible from the I'acific, and also at Guayaquil, at Bodegas, Tambo Gobierno, and Guaranda, though at all those places we were informed that it might, could, or should be seen ; and upon the 19th, if we had not been aware that we actually touched its lower slopes, we might have gone past it without entertaining a suspicion that we were underneath a mountain of first-class magnitude, notably loftier than anything in its vicinity. UjDon leaving Guaranda there was a sharp descent to the Eiver Chimbo, wliich was crossed 1iy a bridge 360 feet below the level of the town, and the road then mounted by a pretty regular incline along the slopes on the eastern side of the valley, and gradually bore away from the river. At 5.35 a.m. it was light enough to see comfortably, and by 6.30 we were nearly 11,000 feet above the sea. At this elevation we made a short ' History of the C'vnqucsl of Peru, Book I., uliap. i. CHAiMi. THE GREAT ARENAL. 21 Imlt to look at the mountains to tlie west. Many of the nearer ones were considerably higlier than onr position, and as we rose fresh tops kept coming into view, shewing tlie extent and importance of this hitherto ignored I'acific Eange.'' The first part of tlie road to the Arenal was a fairly good mountain -path, left, as elsewhere, to take care of itself. Higlier up it became slimy, and our pace was reduced, especially amongst some first-class camcllimcs near the top of the pass. On the last two hundred feet the track disappeared, and every one followed the way that seemed liest over the steep, sandy slojje. The immediate summit was a rounded ridge of sand, and when this was crossed the Great Arenal came into sight, sloping at first very slightly and afterwards more aliruptly towards the north- east, and stretching \ininterruptedly to the base of Chimborazo. Under the guidance of our arriero we made for the Tanibo of Tortorillas (12,828),^ the only place of refuge between Guaranda and Chimborazo except a wooden shed at the place marked Ensillada. The tambo was too filthy to enter,' and we went a few hundred yards aside, and sitting on a grassy knoll looked towards our mountain. Clouds hung about the whole of the upper part, and we could not anywhere see up to the snow-line. ' Between 11,000 and 12,500 feet the vegetation on the banks by the roadside was rather unusually attractive. I collected an Eryngium ; several species of Gaultheria (GauWicria near cow/crte, Benth., G. Pichinchensis, Benth., and another) ; Bidcns humilis, H.B. K. (widely dishibuted in Ecuador) ; Draba grandiflora , Hook, and Am. ; HyjKricum (Bruthys) stnitheolo-folium, Juss. ; Caslilleia fissifoUa, L. ; Ouctagaster stricta, D C. ; a Calceolaria, a Geranium, etc. etc. The Botanical Collections made on this journey have been worked out at the Botanical Department of the British Museum under the personal direction of Mr. Wm. Carruthers, F.R.S., to whom I offer my best thanks fur his attentions and courtesy, - This place, as well as all others mentioned, will be found upon the large map accompanying this volume. ^ It was composed of one room, which was kitchen and everything else. One of the foulest tamlios in Ecuador — the courtyard a sea of mud. Obtained potato soup, bread, and chocolate here. 22 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. ii. The buttresses in the immediate vicinity of Tortorillas were very steep, and came to sudden terminations on the sandy plain. The vallons, however, between them were moderately inclined, and we heard tliat mules frequently went up one of tliem to fetch ice, which was cut for sale in Guayaquil. It was clear tliat we should be able to take natives about 2000 feet above Tortorillas, or to about 15,000 feet above the sea, — how much higher could not be said. Having learnt this, and obtained a notion of the position of Chimborazo, we returned in the course of the evening to Gua- rauda,' and on the next day, the mountain still remaining invisilile, made the acquaintance of the very thin upper crust of the town, which was composed of the official termed the 'Jefo- politico,' tlie Commissary of Police, and the Priest ; and discovered on the other side of our coiirtyard a pretty Spanish girl, with lustrous lilack eyes, who captivated tlie Carrels — l)y peeling their potatoes. The Jefo -politico, Seiior Don Dario Montenegro, Lieut. -Col. in the Ecuadorian army, and Senor Don J. Pazmino, Commissary of Police, made themselves agreeable. We exchanged visits, and I found that they knew more about my intentions than I did myself. A few days later they gave me another call, evidently with something upon their minds, though I could not perceive wliat was the object of the interview. At length the principal ofdcial thus addressed me. " Senor, we understand perfectly, tliat in an affair like^yours, it is necessary to dissemlile, — a little ; ' Whilst returning, I was overcome with dizziness, fevevishness, and intense headaclie, and had to be siiiiported liy two of my people part of the way. Owing to this, we occupied as long in returning as in ascending. I took 30 gi'ains of sulphate of quinine in the course of the night, and was covered up with a mount- ain of blankets, and in the morning became all right again. Left Guaranda 4.30 a.m. Stojiped 20 min. en route. Arrived at the top of the Great Arenal 10.35 a.m., and at Tortorillas 11.45 a.m. Left Tortorillas 1 ]i.m., and arrived at Guaranda 8.30 p.m. I estimate the distance to Tortor- illas and back at 35 miles. At 6 a.m. the shade temp, in the open air was 45° Faht. At 7.45 a.m., 49°; at 10.35 a.m. (summit of Arenal), 52°; and at Tortorillas, at mid-day, 56°'5. CHAP. II. TOO SPECULATIVE. 23 and you, doubtles.s, do quite right to say tliat you intend to ascend Chimborazo, — a thing that e\'erybody knows is j)ei"fectly impossible. We know very well wliat is j'our olijeet! You wish to discover the treasures which are buried in Chimborazo, and, no doubt, there is much treasure buried there ; and we hope you will discover it ; but we hope, when you have discovered it, you will not forget its." "Gentlemen," I said, "I sliall be delighted to remember you, l)ut in respect to the other matter — tlie treasure — I venture to suggest that you shall pay half the expenses of the expedition, and take half the treasure we discover." Upon hearing this, they drew long faces, and went away. Sliortly afterwards, there came an empty person of Eiobamba, with his mouth full of a story of priceless riches buried between Chimborazo and Carihuairazo ; to discover which sliould lie )ii// aim for his advantage ; and to liim I said, " Lead us there, and we will share the spoil ! " But he made no answer, and went away, and we .saw his face no more.^ ( )n Dec. 21, we obtained our first view of Chiniljorazo. Instruments had Ijeen kept in readiness; a place of observation to the north of and somewhat higher than the town had been selected, and we hurried to it to make the most of the oppor- tunity. Two things instantly arrested attention. One of these was that Chimborazo had fico summits — twin, snowy domes — apparently, nearly erpiaUy elevated. The other was that the wliole of that part of the momitain whicli was seen from Cuaranda was nearly covered with glaciers. All the writers who liave referred to Chimborazo from personal knowledge, notably Humboldt and Boussingault, lia\e spoken of ' the summit,' never of summits ; and in a well-known passage in Ask Ccntrah, which has been embodied in many geogi-aphical works, Humboldt expressly declares that he saw no glaciers in Ecuatlor. " I have seen nothing in the tropics," ' At almost every place we visited in Eciuidor persons iiitroduecd themselves with stories of buried treasures. 24 TRAVELS AMONGST THE QBE AT ANDES. chap. ii. he says, "neither in Quito,' nor in Mexico, resembling the Swiss glaciers " ; and he quotes a confirmatory passage from Boussingault, in which the latter says that he is only acquainted with one glacier in Ecuador, upon the mountain Tunguragua — " c'est le seul glacier que j'aie vu en Amerique entre les tropiques." Yet I saw Chimliorazo crowned liy glaciei', and streaming with glaciers. They departed in all directions from a plateau on the top, almost covering the mountain.- The question then arose, Which of these two summits is the higher, and the real top of Chindiorazo ? and in the discussion that followed it appeared that we all inclined to the opinion that the right-hand or more eastern and more distant one, although apparently lower, was actually loftier than the left- hand or more westerly one. Upon Ijringing the theodolite to bear upon it, I found that it (the eastern summit) was depressed 2' 30" below the other. We then debated the manner of approach to the eastern summit. Assuming it to be the higher of the two, how was it to be attained ? The natural course would have been from the south-east.^ This side of the mountain, however, was never perfectly free from clouds. It was steep, and so far as we could see, it was almost completely covered by glacier. We could distinguish multitudes of crevasses — the essential and distinctive feature of glaciers ; and great schrunds which are the outward and visible signs of the dislocation of these icy masses in their passage across unusually iii'egular gi'ound. Over these ^ In this passage, Humboldt means the viceroyalty of Quito (embracing the whole of Kcuador), not the City of Quito. I give the passage at length in Cliapter XIX. - The view facing p. 24 is from a photograph which was taken a few days later. For the purposes of our discussion I sketclied the mountain. ' The reader will be able to follow me upon the accompanying plate. The tambo of Tortorillas lies to the right, beyond the range of the engraving. Tlie Great Arcnal is behind the distant ridge, which stretches from one side to the otlier. Tlie lowest part seen of Chinilmrazo is more tlian 16,000 feet above the sea. /^tSE rue :'F0RNIA. CHAP. II. THE SOUTH SIDE OF CHIMBORAZO. 25 slope.s and schrunds, cloud.s came and went ceaselessly. We cherished the idea that we were uiitni-tnuate in the weather, and that presently they would he dissipated. It took time to learn that they were a great and permanent feature of the mountain, due to the condensation of damp air coming from the iVmazouian region. A direct approach to the eastern summit from the side of Guaranda could not be contemplated for a moment ; for the glaciers streaming from the two domes fell over cliffs, and above nearly perpendicular precipices of rock there rose per- pendicular walls of ice, which broke away as the glaciers progressed, and rolled into a basin, of whicli we only saw the liead. We could trace the grooves and scorings on the slopes below made by falling bodies, and knew that we could not venture there. Underneath the western summit, and leading nearly soutli- west, tliere appeared to l^e a ridge coming down to the Arenal, and to the west of this there was another basin, filled with ratlier tumultuous glacier. This was succeeded by another ridge, bearing on its ci'est a mnnber of sharp pinnacles of rock. We could only conjecture what came behind this. The view was terminated on the extreme left Ijy a very long snow-slope, which seemed to be remarkably free from impedi- ments, and appeared to stretch continuously almost from the snow-line up to the western dome. This ridge was a considerable distance away, and we coidd not learn whether it was possiWe to reach its inferior end. Choice of route was narrowed to it and the south-west ridge, and I gave a casting vote in favour of the latter, being largely influenced in arri\-ing at this decision l)y the supposition that it w^as in this direction Humboldt and Boussmgault made tlieir memoraUe attempts to ascend the mountain. Tliere was one point upon this lidge (hereafter referred to as the south-west ridge of Chimborazo) wliich, in our united E 26 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. ii. opinion, was likely to present difficulties.* If this place could be passed, I reckoned that we shovUd be able to reach the top of the mountain. A route could be traced through the great crevasses by bearing to the west, and I proposed to work round the western sunnnit, to get between the two domes, and tlicn to stiike right and left. Jean-Antoine and Louis were eager for an immediate start, but I refused to lireak up headquarters at Guaranda until we were assured that we could reach the south-west ridge by way of the Arenal. There was a long interval about which we knew nothing, and 1 despatched them at 2 p.m. on the 21st to endeav- our to connect tlie lowest part that was visible from Guaranda with tlie highest ground that we had seen from the Arenal ; and instructed them, in the event of this appearing a promising direction, to select a fit place for camping, if possilile, at alitiut 16,000 feet — that being the greatest height up to which it was probable we should be able to force natives and mules.- This was a mission tliey were thorougldy competent to execute, and they left me at Guaranda to cairv on work in whicli they CDuld lia\-e rendered vei'y little assistance. It is stated in the Introduction that the main object of this journey was to observe the effects of low pressures ; tliat, to experience them, it was necessary to get to great elevations ; and that, in order to discriminate between the effects whicli might properly be attributed to low pressures and those which might be due to fatigue, it was necessary to eliminate the latter. To accomplish thi^, it was obviously better to haxe dealings with mountains easy of access than with those involving high gym- nastics, and Chimboi'azo liad seemed especially favoural)le for ' It will be cxplaiued at a later jioiiit wliy we considered tlii.s might lie a critical jilacc. - They took Aneroid F with them, in order that I might be able to for?ii an idea of the lieight they reached, and I set the iiointer in the movable rim to let them know wlicn they had attained the desired elevation. CHAP. II. HUMBULDT'S ATTEMPT. 27 tlie.se investigations on account of the apparent facility with wliich previous travellers had attained great heights upon its slopes. I liad relied implicitly upon the accounts of Humboldt and Boussingault, and accepted without reserve their statements that they had in 1802 and 1831 respectively reached the heiglits of 19,286 and 19,698 feet. There were matters in their relations tliat I did nut understand; particularly, tlie divine speed witli which tliey descended. Yet I was more disposed to imagine that they had incorrectly noted the times which had lieeii occupied than tliat there was any considerable mistake in the determina- tion of their altitudes; for botli were piovided with mercurial liarometers, and had had much experience in the use of these instruments in the field. It was natural to conclude that the work must be simple if these travellers, unacquainted with the art of mountaineering, and unprcjx'idcd witli professional assist- ance, could reach so great elevations with such facility, and descend at such a prodigious rate. Alexander von Humboldt was in his 3ord year at the time that he made his attempt to ascend Chimborazo. He had enjoyed three years of continuous travel in South America, he was inured to the peculiarities of the climate, and he had the companionship of his friends Bonpland and Carlos Montufar — a son of the IMarcpiis de vSelvalegre, one of the most inipmtant personages of the district. They were all young men, and, selecting a favourable moment for the enterprize, they made their expedition under advantageous conditions. Tliere are fre(pient allusions to Chimborazo throughout the works of Hundioldt, and he evidently was profoundly impressed by his experiences. Towards the close of his long life, and at an age when men do not speak lightly, he declared that he still considered it was the grandest mountain in the world. Notwithstanding the frequent references to this occasion which are made in the works of Humljoldt, I am unalile to 28 rUAVELS^ AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. CHAP. II. tell I'ruui his own writings where lie actually went.^ He does not give courses, or bearings, or such indications as enalile one to identify with certainty the positions to which he reiers. He states that upon June 2.3, 1802, he reached the height of ,^kc^^^ ;fi'£::^.4C>^± 10,286 feet liy 1 p.m., and that this was greater than lie "had dared hi)pe I'ur. In many places the ridge was not wider than 'See Vuts dans Us C'ordilUrcs, pp. 104-r; Aspects of Nature; Kkincre Schriftcn ; Ileeucil d' Observations Astronomiqius, etc. etc. I think it better to adopt as authoritative the account which is given in Karl Bruhns' Life of Humboldt (8vo, Lond., 1873, vol. 1, pp. 311-315) than to attempt to construct a narrative from these diverse relations. His biographer must be assumed to be fully aciiuaintcd with all that has been written on the subject. CHAP. II. BOUSSINGAULT'S ATTEMPTS. 29 tVoiii I'ij^lit to ten inches. To our left a precipice covered with snow. . . . On tlie rig'lit was a fearful abyss. . . . The rock became more frialile and the ascent increasingly difficult and dangerous. We were obliged to use both hands and feet. Wr advanced all the more slowly, as every place that seemed in- secure had first to be tested." These are some of the expressions used in regard to places which were passed over in the earlier part of the day. Higlier up, " one after another all began to feel indisposed, and experienced a feeling of nausea accompanied liy giddiness. . . . Blood exuded fi'om the lips and gums." At last they were stopped Ijy a ravine " some 400 feet deep and GO feet wide, which presented an insurmountable bai'rier. We covdd see clearly that the ridge on which we stood continued in the same direction on the other side of the ravine. . . . There was no means of getting round the cleft. . . . The softness of the snowy mass prohibited such an attempt." This was the turning-point. Its height was determined by observation of mercurial barometer at 19,286 feet. They remained there but a short time, and when about half-way down encountered a ^•il:)lent hail-storm, whicli a little later was succeeded by snow. The flakes fell so thickly that the ridge was covered sevei'al inches deep. He says that they left their highest point a little after 1 p.m., and at a few minutes after 2 reached the place where they had left their mules (at 15,600 feet), that is to say, he claims to have descended 3686 feet in one liour!^ Joseph-Dieudonne BoussingaiUt was in his 20th year when he attempted to a.scend Chunborazo in IS.'U, and had been living for several years in elevated regions in the neighliourhood of the Erptator. He was accompanied by an Ameiican (Col. Hall) and a Xegro. On Dec. 14, they went to " the farm of Chim- borazo,^ which he said was at an elevation of oSOO meti'es ' See Apjienc-Hx G at the end of this voliiiue, where the relation from Kail Bruhns is given in full. - This, I conjecture, is the jilaee now called Chuiiuipoiiuio. 30 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chai-. ii. (12,467 feet), and at 7 a.m. on the l.'itli, under the guidance of an Indian, fcillowed a rivulet enclo.sed between walls of rock, " whose water.s de.scend from the glacier ; ^ lint very soon," he says, " we quitted this fissure, in order to direct our steps towards Mocha. ^ We rose very gradually, and our mules walked with ditiiculty through the debris of rock. The slope then became very rapid, the ground was unstable, and the inules stopped almost at every step. They no longer obeyed the spur. The breathing of the animals was hiirried and panting. We were then at an elevation of 4808 metres (15,774 feet)." They left the mules at this height, and " liegan to ascend a ridge wliieh abutted on a very elevated point of the glacier. It was mid -day. We went up slowly; and as we got higher on the snow the difficulty of breathing in walking became more and more felt ; but we easily regained our strength by stopping at every eight or ten steps. As we went on, we felt extreme fatigue from the want of consistency in the snowy soil, which gave way continually under our feet, and in which we sank sometimes up to the waist. We were soon convinced of the impossibility of proceeding. We went to rest on a block of trachyte, at an elevation of 5115 metres (16,781 feet). Thus, after niucli fatigue, we had only risen 307 metres (1007 feet) higher than the place whence we had set out. At 6 o'clock we were back at the farm." They determined to make another attempt. " The weather had l)een splendid, and Cliindiorazo had never appeared so magni- ficent. We resolved," he says, " to try to ascend the steep side, that is to say, by the slope facing the Arenal. We knew that it was upon this side M. de Humboldt had ascended, and we had l)een sliewn at llioljamlia the point he had reached, but it was ' It i.s cmious to note that Boussingault hero refers to a glacier, although el.sewliere lie says that he has seen only one glaeier in tlie Tropics, npon the mount- ain Tnnguragua. - From this it appears that they made for the easternmost glacier of Chimborazo, which is marked K upon my map. OHAP. 11. A LIVELY DEFiCENT. 31 impossible to ol)taiii precise informatiou alioiit the route whieli he had followed to get there." They set out at 7 a.m. on Dec. IG, for the Areiial/ ami liy 9 o'cloek had got to a height of 4335 metres (14,223 feet), and stopped for breakfast. At 10.45 a.m., tliey left their mules at a height of 4945 metres (16,224 feet), that is to say, they had got them 2000 feet ripwards in an hour and three -qiiarters, including the time occupied liy In-eakfast and reading the barometer. At 12.45 they were at a height of 5680 metres (18,636 feet), or had mounted 2412 feet more in two hours, including the stoppages necessary for further observations of the barometer and the formation of a geological collection, notwith- standing that they had to pause every six or eight steps to get breath. Here tliey halted for rest, and again read the barometer, yet at 1.45 p.m. they had reached a height of 6004 metres (19,698 feet), although upon this section they " were obliged to stop every two or three steps" to get breath, and even to sit down. They commenced to descend about 3 p.m., and at 4.45 arrived again at the heiglit of 4335 metres (14,223 feet), that is to say, descended 5475 feet in an hour and three-quarters. Boussingault says tlie descent was wearisome (penible). It seems, however, to have been rather lively. His average rate through- out the whole of the descent was 52 feet ^»r minute, over slopes on which a thin coating of snow lay over ice, where step-cutting was necessary ; over a ' mauvais pas,' and a ' nappe de glace,' where ' a slip would have been fatal ' ; and talus, ' cpiite im- ' Boussingault, like Humboldt, gives neither courses nor bearings. He appears to have followed the ordinary track round the mountain, and must have arrived at the Arenal by passing through the place called Tortorillas. The speed with which he now travels is remarkable, and is very much faster than the rates (jHoted for his first attempt. He evidently intended to fallow the route taken by Hund)oldt ; and in-esum- ably he did so, as nothing subsequently is said to the contrary. I endeavoured in 1879 to learn more particulars from M. Boussingaidt about the route he fol- lowed. He informed me that he could not at that distance of time (forty-eight years) rememljcr anything more than he had published. Boussingault died in 1887, aged 85. 32 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES chap. ii. practicable for mules.' ^ But he was Leateii by Humboldt, who descended 368G feet in sixt}' minutes, or at an average rate of sidy-one feet per minide, down a ridge which in many places was not wider than from eight to ten inches, with friable rock which had to lie climbed ; where every loose place had first to be tested, and from the insecurity of the footmg greater caution was neces.sary than during the ascent — the last part of the way being through a storm which covered the ridge with several inches of snow. This is a divine rate for men encumbered with mercurial barometers, and laden with geological collections. I had not imagined that we should equal these extraordinary rates of speed. I did not, and do not, understand how they were accomplished." It had seemed to me probable that the times which were occupied were incorrectly noted. My per- plexities were increased when I saw Chimborazo from Guaranda, and studied the mountain in connection with the narratives of these two famous travellers. I was roughly disillusionized. Accepting its height as 21,425 feet, a fair notion could be formed where 19,500 feet would come; and it was evident that no one could stand at that elevation, at any part of the mount- am, without having glaciers in front, liehind, and upon each side, and that no one could gain tliat elevation without, also, ■passing over glacier. It now seemed probable that the altitudes had also been incorrectly determined, and I began to take more interest in the elevation of Chimborazo. The height of this mountain has ' For the full account, from which these quotations are made, see Aiiiiendix H, at the end of this volume. The title of the original is Ascension an Chimborazo, exicuUc Ic IG dccemhre, 1S31, par M. Boussinganlt. ^ When writing Scrambles amongst the Alps, I tabulated a large mimber of ascents of the principal Alpine peaks to obtain a notion of the average rate of progression of mountaineers in general ; and found that 1000 feet per hour, taking the mean of ascent and descent, was a respectable rate, including halts. That is to say, ten hours would be a fair allowance for the ascent and descent of 500b feet involving work of moderate difficulty. This, however, had reference to unencumbered men, and to mountain work less than 16,000 feet above the sea. CHAP. II. THi: BAROMETERS. 33 iiudergoue viei.s.situde.s. Soinetinies it lias been greater ami soiuetime.s smaller.^ Humboldt says (in Aspects of Nature, \< il. 1 , p. 96) that until 1820 it was still regarded as "the highest summit on the surface of the earth."- It looked very large from (iuaranda. The snowy part that was visible (and this was only a fraction of the whole) extended nearly over a point of the compass (ten degrees and a half). We were more than twice the distance from it that the Brevent is from Mont Blanc, yet at that distance its crevasses and schrunds appeared larger and more formidaljle than the crevasses on ]VIont Blanc whicli can be seen from the Brevent. It was clear that an ascent was not to be effected without labour. The route that I proposed to take seemed the easiest if not the oidy way l.)y which it could be ascended on the side of the Areual. While the Carrels were away prospecting, I gave attention to the barometers, for measurement of atmospheric pressure was the first consideration, as this was at the bottom of all the woi'k which was to be undertaken. I took to Ecuador twci mountain mercurial barometers of the Fortin pattern,^ as well as boiling-point ther- mometers and aneroids. Although the employment of aneroids, and the lnoiling- water method are recommended in works of aiithoiity ^ f(_)r the determination of differences of pi'essure, I ' Juan and Ulloa made it 21,615 feet ; La Condaiiiiiie, 20,592 feet ; Huiiibuldt, 21,425 feet; and Reiss and Stiibel, 20,703 feet. - This teaching seems to liave jirevailed at a later date, for in the first and second editions of E. Barrett Browning's Aurora Leigh, published in 1856-7, the following passage occurs : — " I learnt the royal genealogies Of Oviedo, the internal laws Of the Burmese empire, . . . by how many feet Slount Chimborazo outsoars Himmeleh." ^ And left a third one (Kew pattern) with Mr. Chambers for simultaneous comparisons at Guayaciuil. ^ See Hints to Travellers, sixth edition, pp. SO, 305, 309, etc. F 34 riiAVJiLS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. ii. felt that oliservations made by tlieiu would not eoimuaud eonti- dence ; Ijut as the transport of rnei'curial 1 laroiiietei'S is a ticklish matter, and they seldom survive prolonged use, I carried lioiling- point thermometers and aneroids as a reserve in case of accident, and took every opportunity to compare the indications of the three kinds of instruments, to instruct myself how far they agreed when used iu the field. All the instruments arrived at Guaranda in safety.' From London to ])odegas they had been in my own chai'ge, and I then handed tlie two Fortius over to Jean-Antoine, who, to ensure the safety of these delicate instruments, walked tlie greater part of the way from Bodegas to Guaranda. From the unceasing attention that they retpiired, the harometers were nicknamed "the )ial)ies," and many children would he i'ortunate indeed if they were tended with tlie loving care which he Ijestowed upon those mercurial infants. The two Fortiu barometers wei'e verified Ijefure dcpavt-ui-e at Kew Observa-toiy," and were Imng alongside each other at Guaranda. The mean of the readings of these two baiijmeters, reduced to 32° Faht., was the standai'd to whidi all the other observations wei'e referred. The boiling-point thermometers were iu two series (150° — 185°, and 180° — 215°), in order to lune each degree a good length ; and a numlier of experimental comparisons were made with them, upon which a few general obser\'ations are offered in Appendix D. Seven aneroids were taken to IJie interior of Ecuador.^ All of these were made for tlie journey, and they were frecjuently ' Except one aneroid, wlueli was either lost or stolen. Dnrini; our halt at S. Jose de Chinibo, an Ecuadorian who heard that I carried aneroids was very urgent to buy one. I shewed him mine, and on arrival at Guaranda found that one of them had disappeared. A reward was offered for its recovery, without result. ^ A facsimile of the Certificate of Verification of !No. 558 is given in Appendix C. ' And an eighth was left with Mr. Chambers at Gnayaiiuil, as a reserve in case of accident to the mercurial barometer. CHAP. 11. COMPARISONS OF THE ANEROIDS. 35 tested bel'iin' (lei)arture under the air-pump, ami Cdiiipaivil with the Makers' Standard, as well as compared with my own standards whieh had been, as I have said, verified at Kew. The prime I'easou for carrying so many aneroids was the apprehension tliat, despite the care which was taken of the mercurial barometers, I might be suddenly deprived of them by some unhappy smash ; and, having a nundjer, the occasion was favourable for comparing the actual working of the two classes of Ijai'ometers. Whilst aneroids are much recommended by some persons, by others they are nmch condemned. Though it is common to hear them spoken of as unrelialjle it is certain that differences of pressure can he. determined by them with marvellous accuiacy. When I sought for informatitni or instruction how and why they w^ere unrelialile I (jl)tained no satisfaction, and I was unable to learn that any one had e\"er taken the troul)le to compare the actual working in the field of aneroids against the mercurial barometer at low pressures.^ The recommendations in favour of aneroids have been made, it is to be presumed, on the assuviption that they do read against the mercuiial barometer with the .same degree of accuracy when emploj'ed in the field as they do when tested against it under the air-pump. This seemed to be a fit subject for investigatiim, and I entered up(]u the enrpiiry witlwut prepossessions either for or against aneroids, cherishing the hope that the means of several would closely accord with the mercurial barometer, — a hope that I entertained because these instruments seemed to be pretty equally divided between those which liad a tendency to read too high and those which had a tendency to read too hiw. The idea was that the plus errors of some might or would balance the minus errors of others. This hope was speedily dissipated. I found that my aneroids did not read against tlie mercurial barometer when useil in the ' I ilo not ignore Mr. Glaislier'.s comparison.s in li.alloon. See Appendix A, § 18. 3C TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. ii. field with the same acciirfiCY, or in the same manner, as they hail done when tested under the air-piuiij), and that their hehaviour was perplexing. Upon leaving Guaj'aqnil (just aliove the level of tlie sea), one of the seven read hir/hrr tlian the mercurial Ijanjmeter, and tlie si.x; others all I'ead lijwer than it, though not to a large extent. The mean of tlie readings of the whole of the aneroids was 0"055 of an inch lower than the mercurials, and the seven instruments differed amongst each other to the extent of 0"346 of an inch. It was to be expected that they would continue to differ amongst each other, and that the greatest difference would increase, as this is what is com- monly found to occur in most asseml^lages of aneroids. The object of comparison in the field was to determine whether increase of the differences amongst the aneroids would affect the mean error of the whole when compared with the merc\irial barometer ; that is to say, would the mean error of the aneroids remain 0'055 of an inch, or would it become materially altered? It l)ecame apparent at an early stage of the journey tliat the means of the aneroids shewed larger and larger depart- ures from the mercurial barometer. After a little time, each individual instrument indicated louvr pressures than the mer- cuiial barometer.^ By the time we arrived at Guaranda the mean error of the aneroids had increased from — 0'055 to — 0'520 of an inch, and it augmented daily." In the course of the narrative I shall point out from time to time tlie exceedingly serious errors wliicli would liave lieen fallen into in determination of altitudes if I liad lieeii obliged to rely upon aneroids alone.^ When the weather was favouralile I took out the camera, ' Aneroid D, the one wliieli road lihjlur tlian the mercurials at Giiayaiiuil, hy the time we arrived at Tamho Gohierno had a niiiuis error of 0'359 of an inch. - See Ajipendix C, § 5, and the tahles showing the constant growtli of the " greatest dili'creuce, " and the "mean error of aneroids." ' Those who desire to pursue this suhject are referred to the pamphlet Uoio to use the Aneroid Barometer, whicli is puhlished simultaneously w'ith this volume. IX>?;' to use the Aneroid Barometer^ pp. 56-7. ' This could be assumed with some probability, as the variations in atmospheric pressure are small in Ecuador. See Appendix B. Upon return to Guayaquil, I found that Jlr. Chaniliers had recorded 29 '957 inches (mere. bar. reduced to 32°) as the reading at 11 a.m. on Dec. 22. CHAP. n. 11 'E START FOR CHIMBORA/J). 39 reduced the height of the place they had selected Ibr the second camp to 16,450 feet, and np to that spot, they said, animals might lie taken. We niiw thought that there was nothing to hintler ns from starting on the 24th, hut npon discnssing matters witii the arrieros it appeared that our departure must he postponed, as they would not he ali.sent from Guaranda nn CIn'istmas Day. At 9.45 a.m. on the 2Gth our troop of fourteen animals (ten for haggage and four for riding) filed out of the yard,^ followed hy three arrieros and two Indians who were em- ployed to carry some lung poles which were wanted for signals and c ither uses. The Priest Messed me and mine, and all that we had. The Chief of the Police, dressed in his liest, came to .see us off ; while the }iopulaee of (luaraiida sat on a wall and regardeil us with stolidity. The Indians were supplied hy the Authorities, and proved an midesirahle contingent. They lagged helund luider various pretences, with tlie oln'ious intention of l)olting, and would speedily have disappeared had not somebody kept in the rear to prevent their escape." One of them, an exceptionally sulky THE POrUL.\CE .\T GU.\RAND.\. ' The price demanded for baggage or riding animals in Ecuador was generally very moderate. On this occasion it was a ^)cso (efjual to about 2s. 8d.) per day and forage. - They were paid in advance, according to the custom of the conntry, and had to be provided with shoes. Although natives of all sorts were continually 40 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. n. and stuliliorii i'ellow, caiTied lii.s poles in .such a manner that they struck everything we passed, and liy these and other antics delayed iis so considerably that we occupied seven hours in getting to the Arenal. After crossing its summit, we left the usual Quito track (which passes by Tortorillas) on our right, and under the leading of Jean- Antoine steered a nearly north- north-easterly course over the ripper and level portion of the great plain. The sun was approaching the horizon, and threw immensely long shadows upon the luminous sand. Carrel guided u.s to the spot he had selected, just at the mouth of a vallon leading directly towards the western summit.^ AVe camped under a moonlit sky by the side of a tiny stream. The night was still and cold, and at meal-time we all — mountaineers, arrieros, and Indians — sat together round a blazing fire in the centre of the encampment. The temperature fell unexpectedly Liw. The minimum thermometer registered 21° Faht., and our little brook became a ma.ss of solid ice. The remains of the soup in the cooking utensils w^ere frozen up, cruelly hard, — but it was harder still to find in the morning that the Indians and five of the mules liad disappeared. iiipt with tiudgiiig bare -footed .iloiig tlio roads, wlieiicver one was liiri'd lie found himself unaljle to walk without shoes, and that he had none. ^ Left Guaranda 9.45 a.iu. ; arrived at Ensillada 1.50 p.m. Halted 45 min. Arrived at summit of Arenal 4.45 p. in. ; and at Camp 1 (14,375 feet) at 5.50 p.m. ONE OF OUR ARRIEROS. AIGUILLES ON CHI.MBORAZO. CHAPTER III. THE FIRST ASCENT OF CIILMBOK.VZO. The temperature in the night was unexpectedly low for so moderate an elevation as that of the first camp. Only a week before, at Tortorillas, we had experienced 56° "5 at mid-day, ami I scarcely anticipated that the freezing-point woidd lie touched at the height of 14,000 feet in the neighljourhood of the E(piator.' This sharp frost caused me to observe the nocturnal minima at our subsequent camps, and, from the table that is given in Appendix E, it will be seen that tlio miniHium of tlie night of Dec. 26 was below the average. It occurrrd upon an excep- tionally fine night, with a clear sky. ' The only information I iiossessed upon temperatures of any sort at considcralile elevations in Ecuador was that published liy Boussingault in the Comjitcs Hcmlua, in 1879, vol. Ixxxviii, p. 1241. This relates to the Hacienda of Antisaiia (13,306 feet), and is referred to more particularly in my chapter ujion Autisana. G 42 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. hi. The disappearance of the mules and Indians was a more serious matter. The arrieros could aHbrd to take it coolly, as the hire of their animals had been paid in advance. Deprived of seven backs, two journe3's became necessary to the second camp, and the best arrangement I could make was to despatch Jean- Antoine in charge of the caravan, whilst Louis and I waited below at the foot of the vallon, ostensilily to finish work there, but really to prevent any more desertions. Jean-Antoine went away at 10 a.m. on the ^Tth, with eight laden mules, the three arrieros and Perruig. He was to remain above, to commence the establishment of the camp, and to send the team back as soon as it could be unloaded. One mule was retained lielow, for this Ijeast seemed tc) be oppressed with such a load of melancholy (which I attributed to sore riljs) that I had not the heart to send it higher. Louis was well employed in collecting firewood, and in transferring surplus stores uji the rallon to a depot ; whilst I, after finishing my pmper work, went aside, and stripped for a real good wash before going to regions where ablutions were unknown. Presently there was a noise, and I became aware that the mule had broken loose and was frisking aliout. The animal rejoiced in freedom, and, intoxicated Ijy success, went as near to standing upon its head as a mule cau go. Its behaviour seemed to me supremely ungrateful, and I went for that animal. It ran away ; lait it was liandica})ped, for it had a long halter, wliieli trailed alnng the sandy jilain, whilst I ran unimpeded, and gained on it at every stride. "When I seized tlie halter it was I who was captured. The wretched beast dragged me unmei'cifully over the sandy soil until Louis came to my assistance, and we then towed it in triunqili liack to camp. On the side of the Great Arenal three ndlons lead up into Chimborazo.-' One of these, narrow at its mouth and bi'oader above, is bounded at its upper extremity by the glacier which ' Sec tilt' map of Cliiiuboiazo inset on tlie large general map. CHAP. III. ON MOUKTAIN-SK'KNEffSI. 43 i.s marked G upmi my map. This uiie we naturally termed the \'alloii de Tortorillas. The next towards the west — the Valloii de Dehris — leads to the glacier marked F. The third, still farther to the west, was that up wdiich our caravan had gone. I called this the Yallon de Carrel. The Great Arenal stretches along the base of the lidges that tlivide these little valleys.^ In the vicinity of Tortorillas its soil is grassy, and affords pasturage to sheep and cattle ; but vegetation becomes more and more sparse as one proceeds towards the west, and ultimately it almost entirely disappears. The soil in the centre of the plain is composed of fragments of lava — much of it scoriaceous ; they presently become smaller and more equal in size, and on the west of the plain the surface is composed of wliat can only be called fine sand, which drifts in this direction. This is partly volcanic dust, and jirolxilily is pii^i'tly derived from attrition of the larger fragments. JMucli of the matter was no doubt ejected by Chimboi-azo, but it is certainly to some extent sup- plemented by the volcanic dust which is constantly floating aliout the country, and is borne ]>y the prevalent winds towards the south-west. This sandy soil was very loose, and toilsome to ascend even upon moderate gradients. Hence I was surprised that our caravan returned soon after 1 p.m., having occupied only a little more than three hours in going to and returning from the second camp. After allowing the animals a rest, they were reloaded with as much as was good for tliem, and the remainder of the provisions and stores were left in depot at the entrance of the Yallon de Carrel. At this point I must stop to explain more particularly the manner in which it was pi'oposed to conduct our operations. Neither of the two Carrels, nor I myself, had ever experi- enced the least syin]itoin of monntnin-sickness. None of us, ' These vaUons cannot be seen in the view I'aeing ]i. 24. Tliey arc liidden tiy the ridge tliat stretches across the encrraviuK. 44 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. iii. however, prior to this journey had been 16,000 feet liiiih ; and, probably, had never sustained so low a pressure as 17 inehes. I had at various times been in the conij^any of jjersons who said they were afleeted by 'rarefaction of the air,' and who were unable to proceed ; but their symptoms, so far as I observed them, might have been produced liy fatigue and unfamiliarity with mountaineeiing, and were not of the more acute kind. Although I attached little importance to such cases as had come under my own personal observation, I had never felt disposed to question the real if// of mountain - sickness ; and on the contrary had frequently maintained that it is reasonable to expect some effects should be produced upon men who experience much lower atmospheric pressures than those to which they are accustomed ; and that it is much more remarkable to find that, apparentlz/, no effects of a detrimental kind are caused on many persons who ascend to the height of 14-15,000 feet (or, say, sustain a pressure of seventeen and a half inches), than it is to learn that others have suffered at slightly lower pressures. Tlie thing that seemed most puzzling was that, at the greatest heiglits I had reached, instead of appearing to suffer any injurious effects, the effects seemed positivelj' beneficial ; and from this I thought it was not unlikely that we should lie able to reach much more considerable heights, and to sustain considerably lower pressures, without being adversely affected.. Some of my friends, however, who had been as liigh as 17-18,000 feet, competent nuiuntaineers,' and men wlio could speak without exaggeration, told me that they had not been at all comfortable at such elevations. It seemed certain that sooner or later we should suffer like the rest of the world, but I pro- posed to put off' tlie evil day as long as jxissible ; tt) mount gradualh' and leisurely, by small stages, so that there should be no abrujit transition ; and to get to the lowest attainable press- ures (the greatest heights) by the simplest means that could be devi.sed, and liv the easiest routes that could be lound, in CHAR III. THE COMMISSARIAT. 45 (inler tliat extreme exertimi and fatigue sluaild take iiu [)art in anything that might happen. This will explain why we pro- ceeded so deliberately. Should it be found necessary, I was prepared to devote the whole of the time that I could remain in Ecuador to Chimborazo alone. I did nut see fit either befoi'e our departure from Europe, or at any period of the journey, to communicate the nature of my objects to my assistants, or what was likely to befall them. At starting, they were only aware that we should proceed to South America, and that they would be employed in mountain work, at gi'eat elevations. As it woidd be impossible to retain natives at our higlier camps, and we ourselves might be detained at them by bad weather or from other causes even for weeks at a time, it was necessary to he well provided with food ; and as it could not be expected that we sliould be able to obtain on tlie spot pro- visions which would keep for a length of time, I concluded, before leaving Europe, that to work witli certainty we must make ourselves entirely independent of the resources of tlie country in the matter of tlie food which would be consumed at the greatest heiglits. A large quantity of the most portable and most condensed provisions accordingly went out for our use.' These provisions were packed in Ijoxes measuring 28f x 11| X lOf inches, weighing about 72 lbs. apiece. Each of these boxes contained three tin cases, measuring 9| x 9 x 8| inches, and each tin case held food for four men for one day. The tins, Ijeing thorcinghly soldered (bAvn, could be left exposed iu the worst weather, or dipped iu water without takmg harm. The contents comprised nearly e\erything that was rerpiisite except water and firing. A great saving of time was effected iu the field by ' By Jiersons having commercial relations with Ecuador, it was considered very absurd to take food to that country. I was told liefore departiu'c that everything one could possibly want could be obtained there. It is indeed tnie that nearly everything may be obtained in Ecuador. It is also true that we often had great difficulty in obtaining anything. My surplus stores were sold to advantage. Medicines aud other things brought high prices. 46 TB.AVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. iii. arranging the food in this manner, and it relieved me from the necessity of coutiuual calculations, and from apprehensions tliat some of the minor requisites might be forgotten.^ For a tliousand feet aljove the first camp, our reladen caravan progressed at a fair pace, and then (pressure being about iV'SfiO inches) straggling commenced. My own mule reached the head of tlie vnllon (about 16,000 feet above the sea) witliout shewing signs of exhaustion. It tlien struck work, and I dismounted. So far, the bed of tlie rallon was loose, sandy soil, with little vegetation. Our course then turned to the right, that is towards the east, up the western slopes of the south-west ridge of Ohim- borazo, and led liy steeper gradients o\'er firm ground, co^'ered ^ Each tin ease contained: — Ox -cheek, 2 lbs.; Mutton, 2 lbs.; Beef, 2 lbs.; Potted ham, one tin ; Liebig's extract, 2 ozs., in tin ; Preserved soup, 2 pint tins ; Cocoa and inilk, one tin ; Condensed milk, one tin ; Sugar, 4 ozs. ; Mustard, 1 oz. ; Salt, 2 ozs. ; Pepper, 1 oz. ; Biscuits, about 2 lbs., in tin ; Lemonade powder, in tin ; Seidlitz powders, in tin; 3 pills; small bottle of Chlorodyne ; Black-currant and cayenne lozenges, 2 ozs. ; Muscatelles, 12 ozs. ; Tea, 3 ozs. These quantities were found sufficient, or more than enough, with the exception of sugar. Irrespective of things which were bought already tinned, more than 2000 tins were soldered down. The interstices between the circular tins were filled in with candles, in tin tubes, and the smaller spaces were taken up with bead-necklaces and various articles for presents, and the whole contents were jammed tight with cotton wool, tow and paper. Mustard, pepper, salt and other small articles were taken in glass bottles fitted into tin tubes. All the glass bottles were subsequently used for the preserva- tion of natural history specimens. There was no waste, and, in consequence of the care which w'as taken in packing, not a single bottle was broken, and nothing whatever was spoiled or even injured by damp. The boxes were of the best deal, planed smooth, witli rounded edges and corners, and were double-varnished. The lids were screwed down, and the screws worked into metal cups, so that the lids should not lie overserewcd. JIany of these cases came back in serviceable condition. Except when installed at great heights, the food that was arranged in tliis manner was treated as resei'ved stock. At Guaranda, and other places where they could be obtained, we laid in fresh provisions. A list of the rest of the outfit will be found in Iliiils to TrairUers, fifth edition, pp. 2S4-288. Tlic preparation of it occupied almost as much time as the per- formance of the jnuiiiey. CHAP. HI. AUniVAL AT THE SECOND CAMP. 47 with .shattL'ivil l.iloi-k.s (if la\a falk'ii from the air/c aliove.^ I patted and coaxed my animal on for a few yards, and tlien it stopped again. It clearly found difficulty in supporting its own weight. By continued encouragement, it was induced to advance a few steps at a time ; but the halts Ijecame more frerpient, and, impatient of delay, I pushed on, and left it to pursue its course by itself. Looking back, to see how the rest were progressing, I found that they were scattered over about half- a -mile, and that all the animals were in difficulties, though none carried more than one hundred and sixty pounds. Carrel had selected a position for the second camp with mucli judgment, at the foot of a wall of lava, which perfectly protected the tent on one side. The place was easy of access, and the highest point to which nudes could be taken; with snow-Iicds in its vicinity that would yield water, and ground rotuid aliout it upon which we could exercise. The baggage animals struggled upwards one by one, and by 5.30 p.m. all had ai'i-i\'ed." The barometer stood at this place at sixteen inclies and a half. We were all in liigh spirits. The weather had been fine, and the move had Ijeen successfully effected. It was arranged that one of the arrieros, F Ijy name, should sleep at Tortorillas, and come up daily to learn wliat was needed; and all the rest of the troop were sent liack to Guaranda. They left us very gladly ; for although we had succeeded in establishing our eamj) at the selected spot, it had only been done by great exertions on the part of my people and their lieasts. The mules were forced up to the last yard they could go, and staggering under tlieir liurdens (which were scarcely more than half the weight tliey were accus- tomed to carry), stopped repeatedly, and by their trembling, falling on their knees, and by their general behaviour, shewed ' upon any mule iiass in tlie AIji.s, tliis would liave been considered ijuite ordinary, and easy ground. - The average time tliey took in coming from tlie first to the second camp was two hours. 48 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. iii. that tliey luitl been driven to the verge of exliaustion. AVheu we others arrived at tlie second camp, we ourselves were in good condition, — which was to be ex- pected, as we had ridden most of the way ; but in about an hour I found myself lying on my liack, along with both the Carrels, jilaced Jiors dc comlutt, and incajiable of making the least exertion. We knew that the enemy was upon us, and that we were experiencing our hist attack of mountain-sickness. i THE SECOND CAMl^ ON CHIMDORA20 (16,664 FEEt). CHAP. III. I NO A P ABLE. 49 We were feveiisli, liiid intense heailaehes, ami were iiiiaMe to yati.sl'y our ile.sire for air, exeept l)y breatliing' witli open nioutlis. This naturally parched the throat, anil produced a craving for drink, which we wei'C unable to satisfy, — partly from the dilficidty in obtaining it, and partly from trouble in swallowing it. When we got enough, we could only sip, and not to save our lives could we have taken a quarter of a pint at a draught. Before a mouth- ful was down, we were obliged to breathe and gasp again, until our throats were as dry as ever. Besides ha\'ing our normal rate of breathing largely accelerated, we found it impossiljle to sustain life without every now and then giving s})asmodic gulps, just like iishes when taken out of water. Of eoui'se there was no inclination to eat ; but we wished to smoke, and found that our pipes almost refused to burn, for they, like ourselves, wanted more oxygen. This condition of affairs lasted all night, and all the next day, and I then managed to pluck up spirit enough to get out some chlorate of potash, which by the advice of Dr. W. Marcet, had been brought in case of need. Chlorate of potash was, I believe, first used in mountain travel by Dr. Henderson, in the Karakoruni range, and it was subsequently employed on Sir Douglas Forsyth's Mission to Yarkund in 18'73-4, apparently with good effect.^ Before my departure, l)r. llarcet (with whom I had lieen in com- munication) urged me to experiment, with a view of confirming ' Tlie surgeon to tlii.s expedition states that he distiiljutcil little bottles of it amongst the members of the embassy, and says that, from his own experienee, he "can testify to its value in mitigating the distressing symptoms produced by a continued dejirivation of the natural quantity of oxygen in the atmosphere. Tlie large proportion of oxygen contained in the salt probably supplies to the Ijloud what in these regions it fails to derive from the air, and thus restores through the stomach what the lungs lose. Whatever the explanation of its action, how'evcr, there is no doubt of its efficacy in relieving the dreadful nausea and headache produced by the circulation of an inefficiently oxygenated blood." — Kashmir and Kashjar, by H. W. Bellew, C.S.I. I have been informed by members of this expidititjn tliat they ate, or munched, dry chlorate of potash. a 50 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chai'. iu. these experiences. Ten grains to a wine glass of water was the proportion he recommended, — the dose to be repeated every two or three hours, if necessary. It appeared to me to operate beneficially, though it must be admitted that it was not easy to determine, as one miglit have recovered just as well without taking it at all. At all events, after taking it, the intensity of the symptoms diminished, there were fewer gaspings, and in some degree a feeling of relief. Louis Carrel also suljmitted himself to experiment, and seemed to derive benefit; l>ut Jean-Antoine sturdily refused to take any ' doctor's stuff,' which he regarded as an insult to intelligence. For all human ills, for every complaint, from dysentery to want of air, there was, in his opinion, liut one remedy; and that was Wine ; most efficacious always if taken hot, more especially if a little spice and sugar were added to it. The stories that he related respecting the virtues of Red wine would be enough to fill a book. The wine must be Eed — " White wine," he used to say dogmatically, " is bad, it cuts tlie legs." Most of these legends I cannot remember, but there was one which it was impossible to forget, commencing thus. " Red wine when heated and Ijeaten up with raw eggs is good for many complaints — particularly at the Eve of St. John, when the moon is at the full, for women who are in the family way; Jivo- vided it is drunk whilst looking over the left shoulder, and" — 1 never heard the end of that story, because I laughed too soon. His opinions upon things in general were often very original, and I learned nuich whilst iu liis company ; amongst the ix'st, that, for the cure of headache, nothing better can be mentioned than keeping the head vjarm and the feet cold. It is only fair to say that he j)ractised what he preached. I can remember no more curious siglit than that of this middle-aged man, lying nearly obscured under a pile of ponclios, with his head bound up in a wonderful arrangement of handkerchiefs, vainly attempting to smoke a short pipe whilst gasping like a choking cod-fi.sh, CHAP. III. EXEMPLARY CONDUCT OF MR. PERRIKC. 51 liis naked feet sticking nut from underneath his lihinkets when the temperature in the tent was nmcli below the fi'eezing-point. Strange to rehite, Mr. Pening did not appear to be affected at all. Except for him we should have fared badly. He kept the fire going — no easy task, for the fire appeared to suffer from the want of air just like ourselves, and required sucli incessant blowing that I shall consider for the future a paii' of bellows an indispensalile item in a mountaineei-'s equipment. I\Ir. I'erriug Ijeliaved on this occasion in an exemplary manner. He melted snow, and brought us drink, and attended to our wants in general, and did nut seem any worse at the second camp than at Guaranda. Yet he was a rather debilitated man, and was distinctly less robust than ourselves. He could scarcely walk on a flat road without desiring to sit down, or traverse a hundred yards on a mountain side without l.ieing oljliged to rest. It is natural to enquire how can one account for this man of enfeebled constitution being unaffected, when three others, who were all more or less accustomed to high elevations (low press- ures) were rendered, for a time, completely incapable ? It seems possible to aft'ord a toleralily adequate explanation, but it is better to reserve all comments upon our experiences until the conclusion of the journey, and to proceed now with the narrative. I was taken al>ack at this early adniDuition, for I expected to have laeen able to sustain a lower pressure without being adversely affected. Our symptoms did not differ in any material point from those which have already been recorded by persons deserving of credence, and, so far, the experience was not un- expected ; but they appeared earlier tlian was anticipated, and, when I got into a condition to think, I was greatly surprised at the suddenness with which we were overtaken, and at the fact tliat we succumbed nearly simultaneously. It is scarcely ex- aggeration to say that in one hour we were all right, and that in the next we were all wrong. Two out of the three had already visited the place without being attacked. 52 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. hi. The symptoms come muler the three heads, headache, dis- turbance of the natural manner of respiration, and feverishness. Headache with all three of us was intense, and rendered us almost frantic or crazy. Before 6 p.m. on Dec. 27, we had, I believe, been entirely free from headache in Ecuador. My own continued acute until the 30th, and then it disappeared gradually. With Louis it did not last quite so long, and Jean-Antoine got lietter sooner than his cousin. When it was at its maximum we all seemed to be aliout equally afflicted. The interference with our natural manner of respiration was even more troublesome. At 6 p.m. we could move aliout, talk, or eat and drink freely, while at 8 p.m. and throughout the night of the 27th, eating wouhl have been impossible, and to talk or drink was difficult. We could only gasp ejaculations, or a few words at a time, and efforts at conversation were cut short l)y irrepressiljle, spasmodic gulps; while, during the whole time, respiration was eflected through open mouths, the ordinary amount of air taken in through the nostrils being found inadequate. We were all feverish, but no observations were made until 1 p.m. on the 28th, when my own temperature was found to be 100° '4 Faht.^ It was no doul)t considerably higher in the previous night.^ On this head, nothing can be said in regard to the Carrels; for, though they spoke of feverishness, they positively declined both then and at all times to have their tempei-atures taken. It will be understood from what has just been said that nur ' incapacity ' was neither due to exhaustion or to deficiency of bodily strength, nor was owing to inability to cope with mount- aineering difficulties or to weakness from want of food,^ but was caused by the whole of our attention Iteiug taken uj;) in efforts to ' See Appendix F for the manner of oliservation. At Guaranda on Dee. 23 my temperature was 98°'2; and at 10.30 a.m. on the 27th it was 9S°-4. - Tliis was a cold night. The minimum thermometer was fixed in position before we were incapacitated, and .so I know tliat temiieratnrc on tlie nii;ht of tlie 27th again fell to 21° Faht. ^ The attack immediately followed a meal. CHAR III. LIFE AT LOW PRESSURES. 53 get air; and iny two assistants, spoutaneonsly and without any questioning or prompting on my part, attriliiited the condition in which we found ourselves to the ' rarity of the air ' at our second camp. Tliere is evidence of my own inability to perform my regular work in the l)lu.nks in my journals at this date, and further evidence of the realitj' of tlie attack in the fact that we could not smoke. Two out of the three were habitual consumers of toliacco, and had become slaves to this vice to such an extent tliat they smoked conscientiously upon every opportunity. When such persons put aside their lieloved pipes there is certainly some- thing wrong. All three found smoking too laborious, and ceased theii- efforts in a sort of despair. But it sliould not be understood, from anything which may have been said, that I discussed the subject witli tlie Carrels, for I considered it liest to leave them in ignorance of tlie ftict that tliey were the subjects of a scientific enquiry. Tiiere was a perceptible improvement in thoh- condition on the night of Dec. 28, tliougli little in my own. On tlie 20tb tliey were eager to be oft' exploring, and I sent them away at 7.50 a.m., instructing them to continue the ascent of the south-west ridge; to l(iok out for a higher camping - place ; and not to endeavour to reach a great elevation. Owing to my lifeless condition, I should (inly liavc liampered tlieir movements by accompanying them, and wliile they were away I turned my attention again tr> the 1 larometers. The two mercurial liarometers an-ived safely at the second canqi. (^ne of them (No. 550) was stowed away in a cleft in tlie rocks, and the other (No. 558) was alone used on Chimborazo. It may be of some service to travellers to mention the precautions which were taken in regard to these instruments. There are two principal reasons why so many mercurial baro- meters are broken in the field. 1. Because they are insufticiently protected when in transit ; and 2. because a bad method of sus- pension is employed when they are being observed. Mountain 54 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. iti. barometers are usually sent out Ijy their makers in a zinc -lined leather case (similar to that shewn in the annexed figure), and are carried slung by straps across the shoulder, the large ends uppermost, — that is to say, with cisterns reversed. These cases may give enough protec- tion if the instruments are carried along a road, or over easy ground, Init they do not afford sufficient to withstand the shocks, jolts, and accidents of travel. Sometimes the case is actually crushed in upon the tube, and in other instances the tube is broken by concussion, although the case may not be injured. Each of the ordinary cases of my barometers was again enclosed in a wooden box, with deal sides and oak ends, and was padded all round with a quantity of tow to deaden concussion. They were always carried on the liack, iipright, with the large ends uppermost, and were kept in position by knapsack straps. Altliough they were treated with tlie utmost care, they had to sustain mnny accidental knocks and jars, and Tipon several occasions Jean-Antoine liad t umself off hastily tlnow his beast, as best he could, to avoid an utter smasli.^ I Each barometer in its ease, as svipplied by tlie iiiakei-, weighed 6 Uis. Eacli additional wooden ease weighed 6i lbs. moi'c. METHOD OF SUSPENSION. 55 The stand usually supplied by instruiueut makers (see Fig. 1) is one of the worst tliat can be devised fur use out of doors. It is bad because the base (def) of the pyramid formed by the tripod is not large enough in proportion to its height ; because the point of suspension (a) of the barometer (b c) is much too low ; because the legs (a d, a e, a f) of the tripod are fixed in a rigid position, and cannot be set in or out to accommodate the irregularities of the ground ; and upon snow it is nearly useless because these thin metal legs sink in to or beyond the cistern (c) before a sufficient foundation can be olitained. A moderate breeze puts the baro- meter in movement (though it should be perfectly at rest for a good observation) and a slight knock may make it oscillate from G to H. If the cistern should swing as far as X the stand will overturn, and the barometer almost certainly will be destroyed. I discarded tlie usual methotl of suspension, and hung the barometers from the stands belonging to the tlieodnHte (AJKL, Fig. 2). The stability of these stands is infinitely greater tlian that of the form usually employed ; their legs can be set in and out to meet the requirements of each occasion ; and, when liung in the manner shewn in tlie diagi-am, barometers have little tend- 56 TRAVELS AMOXGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. hi. ency to swing to iiiul fro. No shock tliat is likely to occur will make the cisterii.s luo^-e i'roni M to N — th(jugh, if they did so, the stands would not lie overturned. The actual method of suspension at a, Fig. 2, is a device of my own, and is shewn in the accompanying engraving, which rendeis descri[ition unnecessary. To set out a theodolite stand and hang a barometer in position upon this catch is an afl'air of a few seconds, while if the oidinary stand is emi^loyed minutes are occupied in the operation. The mercurial barometer read 1G'4V6 inches at 11 a.m. on Dec. 28, 16-488 inches on the 29th, and 10-480 on the 30th. Mr. Chambers, at Guayacpiil, made simultaneous obser- vations on the 28th and 29th, and found no change iu pressure on the latter day. But while the mercurials were demonstiating the remarkable stability of the barometer in Ecuador the aneroids sliowed luinr pressures on each successi\e day. l*Iace of Observatiun. BaromelcT. Dec. 28, ISVO. 11 a.m. inches. Second Camp . Meri'. Bar. No. 55S (conecteil) 16-476 Guayaiiuil . do. No. 554 ( do. ) 29-910 Second Camii . Means of si.>; Aneroids . . 15-643 Do. . Errors of means of Aneroids . - ■ 8.33 Do. Do. Aneroid F Error of Aneroid F 15-300 -1-176 Dec. ao, 1S7H. 11 a.m. inches. 16-4SS ■JU-UIO 15-611 -0-877 15-300 -1-188 Dec. 30, 1S79. 11 a.m. inches. 16-480 15-577 -0-903 15-280 -1-200 CHAP. III. COXFLICTIXa STATEMENTS. 57 At Uie last ivfei'ence to Ancniid f (p. -'58) its en'or aim muted to — 1'080 of ail inch. At tlie tii'.st camp on ( 'hiniliorazo it was increased to — 1" 152 of an inch, and from tlie above record it will be seen that it still augmented daily. Thus, while the mercurial barometer shewed a slight increase in pressure, the whole of the aneroids, on the other hand, indicated pressure diminishing} If I had depended upon the latter instru- ments, atmospheric pressure in Ecuador, instead of appearing, as it is, remarkably steady," would have seemed liable to large fluc- tuations, and very erroneous suppositions might have been based upon these observations; or if the altitude of the second camp had been deduced from the means of the six aneroids it would ha\e come out about 1500 feet too high, through adopting a pressure for the upper station nine-tenths of an inch lower than the truth. The behaviour of these aneroids was so anomalous and per- plexing that I felt greatly inclined to read them no more ; and it was only the apprehension of disaster to the mercurials that induced me to continue to occupy my time in recording obser- vations wliich appeared perfectly worthless. From subsequent experiments in the workshop ^ it has been found that their be- haviour is neither exceptional nor unintelligible ; but when we were upon C'himborazo it puzzled me exceedingly, and I rushed to the conclusion that I had not been well served, and that my aneroids were emphatically a bad lot. Our camp was situated on the southern side of a rather con- spicxious gap in the ridge, and a large rectangular mass of lava against which the tent was placed made a good landmark, which was rendered still more apparent by one of our long poles that was fixed up as a signal. Below us, oiu' ridge spread out con- siderably as it approached the Arenal, and al)ove us it led for a long distance towards the western dome. On our right or east, looking towards the summits, there was ' See Uow to use the Aneroid Barometer, p. 35, § 40. - See Apiieiulix B. " JIow lo use the A-iicroid Barometer, iij). 15-34. 58 TliAVELH AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. iii. a basin occupied liy a glacier (the Glacier de Debris, abdut wliicli I shall speak more particularly presently) tei-uiiuatiun' in a vallon leading down to the Ai'enal. On the farther or eastern side of this glacier there was another ridge that carried, opposite to our camp, a rather prominent secondary peak, which we duljljed — from its situation and from a fancied resemblance to the Mont Blanc aiguille — the Aiguille du Midi. This, and another smaller one that we called the Aiguille du Geant, being higher than our station, shut out nuich of the A'ista to the east. The I'idge of which they formed part did not extend to so great a Jieiglit as our own. It became lost amid the snow and scattei'ed I'ocks shewn upon the right of the view facing p. 24, and over its higlier extremity, in the early morning, we could occasionally see some of the tumultuous glacier which covers a great part of the eastern side of Chindiorazo, with its numerous crevasses and gigantic schrunds. Over these slopes and schrunds clouds gathered cease- lessly, tantalizing us when they were whirled aloft and torn into shreds, only to be replaced in a few seconds liy eipially impene- trable mists manufactured from in\'isible vapours. On the left or west of our ridge there was the A'allou de Carrel, up which we had come ; and at the head of this there was glacier E (Glacier dc Tliiehuanii) of my map, that has its origin in the crown of the western dunic. The farther or northern side of this glacier was bounded li}' a long and serrated ridge which terminated the view in that direction. Above the camp, rising 500 feet higher at an angle nl' about 35°, our ridge was covered with disintegrated lava nungled with patches of sand ; a stony waste, easy enough to traverse, — Mr. Terring, indeed, could ascend or descend it by himself. Up to this elevation (nearly 17,200 feet) Ghindiorazo could be ascended in the mouth of January without touching snow ! The ciest or arcU of the ridge then i-ose for some distance at a less abrujit angle, and was occupied by jagged lilocks or pinnacles of lava which c(incealed its continuation in the reai: Except by looking CHAR III. "77/7? Tin KG IS CERTAIN:' 59 at the ridge in full front from Gdaranda, I did not know what was behind. Tlie Carrels had disappeared amongst the craggy lavas, and as I had selected this as the line of ascent, and could not see a practicable route either to the right or left, I awaited the return of my assistants with some anxiety. Night had almost set in before they were descried coming down the slope that I'ose from the camp, and it was quite dark when they arrived at the tent, almost breathless, scarcely alile to keep on their legs, staggering nnder their own weight ! They threw themsel\-es down and went to sleep without either eating (jr drinking, and I is, Kze.) This is the greatest height at which ' a representative of this family was obtained on the journey. CHAP. III. FLIGHT UF THE GUARD. 63 ail intrii(luetiiiii to the otheis, and iouiul that Mr. I'emng had suspected that F was the thief, and liad thoughtfully engaged a fresh arriero as courier, before airesting our late one, who was now a prisoner and on his way to Guarauda in charge of two (if Hiy guards;^ whilst the other pair had taken the earliest oppor- tunity to wait upiin nie, wot to pay tlieii' respects, lait to state that unless they were paid eightpeuce each per day, ^mndiudly every day, they would take themselves off. I assured them that it would gdve us the greatest pleasure to see one of them e\ery (lii\-, punctually, at the third camp, to receive the four eiglit- peiices, and appointed Mr. Perriug paymaster; but they took themsehes off, I neither know when nor where, and relieved us from all troulile on their account, except the settlement of a liill from the autlnaities at Guaranda for services which had not been rendered. They did not, however, depart from the second camp until we had shewn tliem the way to the third one. Their unexpected \'isit was too good an opportunity to be lost. I impressed e\ery one to assist in the move, and at the end of the afternoon we had got three weeks' provisions at the upper station. The second camp was then left to take care of itself, with the tent standing, and a gond supply of fotid and tiring alongside. A line of com- nuinication was now fairly established. Ibiwcver bad the weather, we could always retreat upon the second camp, and from it to the depot near the first one, scarcely more than two hours from Tortorillas, where we could communicate with Guaranda; and tlie Word was given the same afternoon that Chimborazo was to Ije assaulted on the next moining. At 5.35 a.m.- on Jan. 3, we left the tent, and, scrandjling • This was done without my ain>roval or knowledge. There did not seem to be any evidence against this man ; and, if there had been, we could not have obtained his conviction without the witnesses which were necessary (according to Mr. Perring) to satisfy the law of Ecuador. - There was seldom light enough for travelling over unfamiliar ground earlier thau 5.30 a.m. 64 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. hi. through the shattered lava Ijeliind it, crossed the arete and emerged on the western side of the ridge. There was then the view before us that is given on the opposite page. The western dome, which had been hidden during part of the ascent, again became conspicuous; crowning wall-hke chfl's of lava, that grew more and more imposing as we advanced. As regards the western summit, there are two series of these cliffs — the upper ones innnedi- ately underneath the dome, surmounted by sheer precipices of ice, and the lower ones at the end of a spur thrown out t(jwards the south-west. These lower cliffs are neither so extensive nor as perpendicular as the upper ones,^ and they are crowned Ijy snow, not by glacier. Our ridge led up to their Imse, and at the junction thei'e was a want of continuity rather than a distinct breach in the walls.- This was the spot which, when examining the mount- ain on Dec. 21, at a distance of sixteen miles, we had unani- mously regarded as the critical point, so far as an ascent was concerned (see pp. 25, 26). Up to this place the course was straightforward. In the imme- diate foreground, and extending upwards for 500 or GOO feet, large beds of snow in good condition covered the lidge. The pinnacle or aiguille near at hand was upon the arete or ci'est of it, and the two others shewn in the engraving ujion p. 41 were higher up on the right liand or eastern side. The ridge itself ajipears to be fundamentally an old tlow of la\a. l!(.ick specimens which were taken in situ at various elevations, though differing to some extent in external appearance, are neai-ly identical in composition,^ and I have no doubt that several, at least, of the other principal ' They are seen in tlie view faeing p. 24, whieh is taken from almost precisely the same direction as that facing this page, though at a mucli lower level. - Marked Z on the Sketch plan of pari of the Soul/icrii side of Chimborazo. ^ "This rock (from the second camp, in situ) is a dullish lavender-grey colour, with crystals of glassy felspars up to about ■ 1 inch long, and some minute blackish specks, which weather rather a reddish colour. I think it very probable that a little sanidine is present among the felspars. The rock is a variety of the liyper- stheniferous augite-andcsites. CHIMBORAZO, FROM A LITTLE ABOVE THE THIRD CAMP. PHOTOGRAPHED AT 17.450 FEET. rHE ^F-ORNIA SlTff CHAP. 111. THE AHCEXT OF CHlMIinilAZi). 65 ridges of this mouutaiu were originally la\'ii- streams. Their normal appearance has been largely modiiied ; nuieli is covered uji liy snow, the exposed portions have been greatly decomposed and eroded, and lie almost buried underneath their own ruiiis. After these convenient snow -beds were traversed our ridge steepened — both as regards its arete, and the angles of the slopes on each side ; and became in part covered by jjure ice, and partly by ice mingled with small stones and grit. When this conglomerate was liard frozen, it enabled us to ascend with- out step -cutting; but the debris often reposed uncemented on the surface, and rendered caution as well as liard labnur neces- sary. I found here, scattered over about fifty feet, rather numerous fragments of paitly fossilized bones. Sir Eichard ( )wen, to whom they were sulmiitted, pronounced them to be " tlie liones of some ruminant." The unhappy ruminant most likely did not come there voluntarily, and I conjecture that it was con\'eyed to this lofty spot, either entire oi' in part, liy d. The sky became ovei'clouded, the wind rose, and we entered upon a tract of exceedingly soft snow, which could not be travei'sed in the ordinary way. The leading man went in up to his neck, almost out of sight, and had to be hauled out l)y those l)ehind. Imagining that we had got into a hibyrinth of crevasses, we beat aliout right and left to try to extricate oui-selves ; and, after discoveiiug that it was everywhere alike, we found the only possible way of proceeding was to flog every yard of it down, and llicn U> crawl over it on all fours; and, even then, one or amitlicr was frecpientl}' sulimerged, and almost disappeared.^ Needless to say, time fiew rapidly. When we liad been at this sort of work for tlnvc liours, witlmut liaA'ing accomplished half the remaining distance, 1 halted tlie men, pointed out the gravity of our situation, and asked them which they pi-eferred, to turn or to go on. They talked together in patois, and then Jean-Antoine being much roiiiiclcd and very full of dull glassy enclosures ; there is a fair anuiunt of augitc, but no well-eharaeterised hyporsthcne ; so that the rock uiay be named an augite-andcsite." — Prof. T. G. Bouney, Proc. Royal Soc, June 19, 1SS4. ' Louis Carrel could not touch bottom with a twelve-foot pole that he was carrying. It would have continued to descend by its own weight if he had left hold of it. ox THE SUMMIT OF aHIMTlOEAZO. 69 said, " Wlieu ycui tell us U> turn we will go liack; until then we will go on." I said, "Go on," altlmut^h liy no means feeling sure it wiiuM lint lie liest to say "do back." In aimther Imur and a half we got to the foot of the western summit, and, as the slopes steepened, the snow became firmer again. We arrived on the top of it about a quarter to four in the afternoon, and then had the mortification of finding that it was the lower of the two. There was no help for it ; we had to descend to the plateau, to resume the tidgging, wading, and llouudering, and to make for the highest point, and there again, when we got on to the dome, the snow was reasonably firm, and we arrived upon the summit of Chimborazo standing upright like men, instead of grovelling, as we had been doing for the previous five hours, like beasts of the field. The wind lilew hard from the north-east, and di'ove the light snow before it viciously. We were hungry, wet, numlied, and wretched, laden with instruments which could not be used. With much trouble the mercurial barometer was set up; one man grasped the tripod to keep it firm, while the other stood to windward Iinldiug up a pnnehn to give a little prcitectinn. The 'lower it woulw not go. 70 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. char hi. luercuiy fell to 14' 100 iiK'lu's/ with a temperature of 21° Falit., and lower it would nf interest in connection witli these onthiirsts of steam may be mentiimed. 1. The rapidit)' of the ejection. This Clin be estimated with some prolialiility, as our position was nearly on a level with the summit of Sangai, and was favouraljly situatetl for observation. The part of the cone within sight was about 4000 feet high; the jets rose to aliout once and a half this heiglit, in less than three seconds, and they were consequently projected in the air at the rate of al)out twenty-tu-o miles jKr minute. 2. The cloud formed liy the steam took the shape of ordinary cumulus, rudely tlat lielow, and piled up above. This was repeated time after time. 3. The drift of these clouds southwards demonstrated the existence of a current of air, 22-23,000 feet above the sea, directed from north to south. From our small number of observa- tions, it would be rash to conclude that this cui-rent is a permanent one, although from subsecpient experiences it would ap[>ear that it exists during a considei'able portion of the year. The 6th of January connnenced with fine weather, and I went again witli the Carrels to the foot of the Southei'n Walls. This time we ascended the 1243 feet in 88 minutes. The lower cliffs (marked D on the sketch plan of Chimljorazo) are not so lofty, or as perpendicular as the upper series, and (if provided with ice- axes) one can traverse the slopes underneath them without nnicli trouble, though they are steep and have many streaks or sheets of ice caused by the refreezing of the water which trickles off the rocks. There is evidence that a certain amount of liquefaction goes on even at the top of Chimborazo (notwithstanding the low mean temperature that prevails there) in the enormous icicles which depend from the lower surfaces of the coronal glacier. Some were fully one hundred and fifty feet long. 76 TRziVELH AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chaimii. I found at this place, on rocks m situ at the liase of the cliO's, patches of the lichen Lccanom suhfusca, L., spread o\er a consider- able area. This was the highest point at which any lichen was obtained upon Chimborazo, or during our journey amongst the Great Andes of the Equator ; and, so far as I can learn, it (18,500 feet) is the greatest elevation at which anything appertaiumg to the vegetaljle kingdom has'been found in either of the Ameiicas.^ Another lichen of the genus Gijmpliora was in quantities in the vicinity of the third camp (17,200-17,300 feet). Standing at the foot of the Southern Walls,^.I was more puzzled than before to understand how my predecessors could have at- tained the elevations of 19,286 and 19,698 feet. According to my rough computation, the height of this place was aljout 18,400 feet above the level of the sea.^ This, it seems to me, was the spot at wliich Humboldt and Boussingault stopped. The latter traveller, in the account reprinted in Appendix H, says that his (second) attempt was made by way of the Arenal. This limits his route to the three vallons whicli have lieen ali'eady mentioned. He states that he got his iuules to a height of 4935 metres (16,224 feet), and this indicates that he followed the same vallon as ourseh-es, for he could not have got them nearly so high either in the Yallon de Debris or in that of Tortorillas. He then speaks of following an arete, and his account agrees with the arSte of the south-west ridge ; and if his narrative is to be taken in a literal sense he must ' Tliere are in the Botanieal Department of the British Museum some specimens of a moss of the genus Orthotrkhum, colleeted by tlie Coh Hall who accompanied Boussingault upon his attempts to ascend Chimliorazo, which are said to have come from a height of 18,800 feet, and to be the last trace of vegetation. I obtained species of this genus upon the summit of Corazon (15,871), but did not meet with it upon Chimborazo, or see mosses growing anywhere upon that mountain higher than 16,700 feet. It follows from what is said about the elevation attained by Col. Hall and Boussingault that I cannot su]>pose these specimens actually came from so great a height. ^ A detailed sketch of a portion of them accompanies Chapter XIX. ^ In recomputation, this has been increased to 18,528 feet. ICE-CLIFFS UNDER IHE SUMMilS OF CHiMBORAZO, PHOTOGRAPHED AT 18,500 FEET. "this, it seems to me, was the SPOT AT WHICH HUMBOLDT AND BOUSSINGAULT STOPPED." CHAi'. III. PUZZLED. 77 luivo stoppeil at the f'ljot of tlie Southern WhIIw, at or aljout the place marked F upon tlie ilhistratioii in Cliapter XIX., and Ijy a little ci'oss on the plate facing p. 24, for his description agrees with that place and cannot apply to any other.^ I am nnable to explain how lie found that this place was elevated 19,698 feet above the sea; still less do I understand, if he stood at this spot, having the Glacier de Debris on his right, and the Glacier de Thielniann on his left, and magnificent sections of glacier crowning the Upper Walls, immediately aljove him, how it was he declared that he had seen no glaciers upon Chimborazo ! There is less certainty that Hundjoldt arri\ed at this spot. It is impossible to determine from his own narrati\'e where he actu- ally went. Boussingault says he knew that Hundjoldt made his attempt up(jn the side of the Areual ; and, inasmuch as the route we followed is the only way l)y which the elevation of 18,500 feet can be reached with reasonalale facility on that side, it seems not impossible that he also got as far as the foot of the Southei'u Walls ; - and, if he arrived there, this also would he the p)lace at whicli his progress woidd be arrested. Go farther he couhl not, for the four hundred and fifty feet^ of broken rock and intermingled ice in the breach form an insurmountable barrier to the uninitiated. The \aew from this position is one of the most striking upon the mountain. It connnands the ridge u\) which we made our way, and embraces the wliole length of the Glacier de Deliris, the ' " Nous nous trouvioiis an pied d'un inisine de trachyte dont la base .suiJurieuie, recouverte d'une coupole de neige, forme le soraniet du Cliimborazo. . . . De toiites parts nous etions environnes de precipices. ... La eouleur foncee de la roelie cou- trastait de la nianiere la plus tranchee avec la blanclieur eblouissante de la neige. De longues stalagmites de glaee paraissaient suspendues sur nos ti-tes." - There are, however, several reasons why this is dubious. In Aspects of Nature, vol. 2, p. 34, he states that his liighest point was "on the cnstcrii declivity of the Chimborazo." By no stretcli of the inuigination can "the side of the Arenal" be made the eastern side of the mountain. In Karl I'ruhns' Life it is said that progi-ess was stopped by "a ravine, some 400 feet deep, and 60 feet wide," ami tlierc is no such ravine or cleft upon the south-west ridge. ^ We measured the breach with a line on Jan. 6. 78 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. ohap. hi. vallon below, and in tlie fur distance a little peep of the Arenal road, where liy the aid of glasses the passing mule -trains liound from the capital to the coast could he discerned, and condors sailing to and fro watching unguarded flocks and herds. The inferior portion of the Glacier de Debris lies below the line of perpetual snow, blackened and obscured with fragments of lavas of every hue and shape, broken from places inaccessil)le to the hammer ; but its upper half, sprinkled by the daily falls, grows purer as it rises, and terminates in a steeply-sloping basin, closed by the cirque of cliffs of tlie Southern Walls, crowned by a ^•ertical section of ice (e) which sliews the thickness of the glacier at the summit of Chimborazo. Wliilst waiting at the point marked A on the Plan, ready to snatcli a view of the oj^posite walls should an opening occur in the mists, a portion of tlie projecting ice-clifts near the summit broke away, and some thousands of tons dropped hundreds of feet without touching anything, falling into the aniphitheati'e with a noise wliich fairly made us quiver; and tlien, shattered into millions of fragments, danced down the converging slopes to the upper basin, and marched onwards, covering the entire glacier; continuing to roll, grind against, and even to clamber over each other, until nearly opposite the second ciuiip, — driving a cloud of icy spray nearly a mile farther. In tliis way the Crlacier de Debris is fed and maintained. Shortly afterwards, following its usual custom, the weather deteriorated. High wind and a severe thunderstorm made us scamper to the tent for shelter, leaving the instruments, as before, stowed away in fissures in the cliffs. Next morning, my Chief of the Staff enquired what we were going to do, and whether the instruments should be brought down. I said, "No, we have not finished our work." He then attempted to dissuade me from another ascent, arguing that the weather was bad, and that it would lie useless, and so fortli. It came out gradually that he Iiimself positi\'ely refused to go up again, or even to cHAi'. 111. THE UKTREAT. 79 stop wliere we were. I reniiiuled liiiii (if the liibdur wliicli luid been iiieuned in establishing iiur camps,, and pointed out the severe loss that woidd occur if they were broken up. He assented to all that I said, and simply took up the position that he would not ascend Chimborazo again. Louis did not join in tile discussion, — the older man spoke for licitli. Upon asking for a reason, he said tliat he considered the length of time we were at so great a height was injurious to his health ; that he had pains all over his Ijody, and was afHicted with dysenteiy. After spending much time in argument, and finding that he could not be brought into a diH'erent frame of mind, I despatclied I'erring to Guarauda to bring up nuiles for the retreat.' To tell the truth, I did not think much of the ailments he mentioned, for he appeared to be in very good preservation; and I concluded that he was tired of the monotony of his life, and unfavouralily contrasted the tameness of our proceedings with the dasliing exploits to which he had been accustomed. From this point of view a good deal might have been said. The cousins had Ijeen emjiloyed on Chiudjorazo more as beasts of burden than as mountaineers, in weather which for continuous badness was the worst we had kn(jwn, in occupations that brought them no compensation iVir the hardships they endured ; and I did not feel inclined to judge them too harshly, though intensely chagrined at their sudden collapse, and at being com- pelled to descend when our work was not half finished. During the time Mr. Perring was absent, all the baggage was concentrated lielnw; and on the 10th, when the team arri\-ed, it was speedily loaded, and despatched ti) the tambo of Chuquipotj^uio, on the east side of Chindjorazo. I'ening neces- sarily accompanied the caravan as intei-preter, and I remained alone at the second camp; for I refused U\ \v\\\v until some I if my projects were accomplished, amongst these the must ' This day (.Ian. 7) we went up to recover tlie instruments, anil got to tlie foot of tlie Southern Walls iu eighty -five minutes. 80 TRAVELS AMONGHT THE GREAT ANDES. chaimh. important being the uhservation of angles fur the construction of a plan of our suri'oundings. Before they left, a hase line, 600 feet long, was nicasurecl from near the second camp to the position marked STATION 3 on the sketch plan of part of the southern side of Cliimborazo, and poles were erected as signals on the centre of the Glacier de Debris and at otlier places. But the mists that had prevailed prevented angles being ob- served at these positions, and until they were obtained I proposed to stop. Perring was directed to return on the after- noon of tlic 11 til with a sufficient number of beasts for tlie transport of the remaining baggage, and then the little proces- sion passed out of sight, with Jean-Antoine as rear -guard, lingering as if after all reluctant to go, tuiiiing t(5 wa\'e an adieu, calling ()ut, " Take care of yourself. Monsieur, take care ! " In this singular position I remained two days longer. At 4 p.m. on the 12th I turned my back on the second camp, and, going gently on foot, arrived at 10.45 at the tanibo of Ohuquipoquio. The great gate of tlie massi\'e portal was opened somewhat tardily, for all were asleep and the place was in dark- ness, and I went to bed about 1 a.m., not in the least knowing what the next move would be. THE HEAD OF THE EXPEDITION. A RAGAMUFFIN AT CHUQUIPOQUIO. CHArTEK TV. FROM CHUQUIPOQUIO TO AMBATO, LATACUNGA AND MACHACHI. Early on the next morning, tlie mystery was solved. Louis was found to be a cripple, quite unaljle to walk, tlu'ougli his feet having heen severely frost-bitten. They were i'rightfully swollen, blistered and discoloured. Jean-Antoine, however, was restoi-ed ; his dysentery having yielded to frequent internal appli- cations of hut wine and cognac. It appeared that they were somewhat shamefaced about these frost-lritten feet, and when they found that serious mischief had been done they were half afraid to confess it, expecting that a stonii Wduld be raised liy tliis result of their negligence.' It ' Louis Carrel did not wear gaiters on Jan. 1, and as his shoes were of tlie ill-fitting kind usually worn by Alpine peasants, snow worked down into tlieni, and his feet got wet. Both men were in fault. It was a part of their contract that they were to bring gaiters, and it was the business of Jean-Antoine to see that everything requisite was provided. iM 82 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GEE AT ANDES. chap. iv. was not a time for scolding. I saw now win' Louis had blundered and floundered about during the descent. The poor man was in a very bad way, and the first thing was to find some one who understood the proper treatment for him, as his case was beyond our abilities. It so happened that shortly after my ariival tlie proprietor of Chuqiiiporpiio came up from Eiobamba, and from him we learned that there was at the town of Ambato, about twenty- two miles away, a medical man who had a good reputation ; and on the 14th Perring was despatched to that place to pro- cure lodgings and to bring back the means of transporting the cripples — for there were two of us. I was also in need of a doctor through having acquired in Ecuador a complaint which rendered riding impossible, and obliged me to walk witli cir- cumspection. Sefior Chiriboga, the proprietor of the tambo, was the son of a gentleman of Eiobamba, who was said to be the representative of one of the oldest families in Ecuador, and would have been, if titles had not been abolished. Marquis de Chimborazo. The possible Marquis was a man of middle age, with an mtelligeut head, and he came up "to do us honour, to supply our needs, to watch over and care for us " — so he said. He fell on my neck and kissed me, and begged that I would write an account of our ascent, "to enrich the Ai'chives of Eiobamba." I took this request seriously, but he became invisible until just before we left his house, and I foi'got his existence except when my eye lighted upon the neglected document, whieli was to have enriched the archives of his native town. Chuquipoquio is situated towards the eastern end of Chim- borazo. There is no village. The establishment is partly tambo and partly farm, and like most of the Haciendas in the interior of Ecuador is surrounded by high walls, and has a half- fortified appearance. The courtyard in front was entered through a massive portal, with strong gates, which were generally kept locked and CHAP. IV. SHORT COMMONS. 83 bolted, ami the buildings on tlie opposite side were of one story, in the hut style of architecture. Two or three I'aganiuffins were attached to the place, which was managed by a very dirty Indian, styled the major-domo, who was assisted by an equally dirty wife. This was the only house of entertainment between Anibato and Guaranda (for the miserable tambos at Tortorillas and Mocha count for nothing), and it had things all its own way. A bottle of Bass cost four shillings, and other articles were in proportion. But our greatest grievance was that we could scarcely get any- thing at any price. Though there were cows, milk was doled out by spoonfuls ; there were fowls that " belonged to some one else " and never laid eggs ; there was famine as regards bread, and meat was not to be thought of. So we had to fall back upon our reserved stock to save ourselves from starvation. Examination of the stock shewed that we had eaten less than usual while ixpon Chimborazo ; though, owing to the com- plications introduced by the putrid ox-cheek, one could not tell to what extent. Upon speaking of this as an unexpected cir- cumstance to Jean-Antoine, he surprised me by saying that they (that is to say, Alpine peasants generally) noticed the same thing when they were upon mountain expeditions in the Alps. I .sIkjuLI liave thought the reverse was the case, and that the appetites of guides left nothing to be desired, except a wish that they might be diminished.^ In the mornings, when every one cleared (jut of the tambo, some going north and others south, the courtyard which had resounded with the pawing of restless beasts became as still as death, and I turned to my journals. I found that my residence upon Chimborazo had extended over seventeen days. One night was passed at 14,375 feet, ten more at 16,664 feet, and six others at 17,285 feet above the sea, and this is perhaps the greatest length of time that any one has remained continuously at such ' It shoiiUl, liowever, be noted that we do not know how nuiuh tlic Alpine peasant consumes when he is at home. 84 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. iv. elevations.^ In these days, besides ascending to the summit, I went three times as high as 18,528 feet. Or, the case may be stated in the following way. In the period intervening between 4.45 p.m. on Dec. 27 and 4 p.m. on January 12 I did not experience a higher pressure than 1G'500 inches, except during the few hours on Jan. 1 when I descended to inspect the depot. For six consecutive days, namely, from 4 p.m. on Jan. 2 to the same hour on Jan. 8, pressure was never higher than sixteen inches ; and in these six days, on three occasions, the Ijarometer was observed to be standing below 15 '300 inches, and on one other day to be as low as 14 '100 inches.^ In these seventeen days we had experienced the reality of mountain-sickness, and found that we were not exempt from it at a pressure of sixteen and a half inches ; that in course of time the more acute symptoms disappeared, as we became habituated ti:> that pressui'e, and that we were able to sustain a slight i'urtlier dinunuti(jn witliout their recurrence. Thei'e was no certainty ^ The nearest parallel of wliicli 1 am aware is to be fouiKl iu the exiierieiices of some of the officers of Sir Douglas Forsyth's Mission to Yarkund. See the Geogi-aphical Report of Capt. {now Col.) H. Trotter, R.E., in lleporl of a Mission to Yarkund in 1S73, muler commaiid of Sir T. D. Forsyth, K.C.S.I., C.B. \ 4to, Calcutta, 1875. - During the whole of this time, there was not one really fine day. As a rule, the weather at dayhreak on Cliimliorazo was reasonably good at our level, and the two summits were cloudless, or nearly so. Clouds at that time, however, always existed beneath us, commencing at about 13-14,000 feet, and extending how low I cannot say. Hill -tops of greater elevation than this were commonly clear. By 8 a.m., or thereabouts, clouds commenced to form over the eastern side of the mountain ; and, gradually extending ujuvards, generally shut out the sum- mits by 10 a.m. There were thunderstorms on the south side of Chindjorazo on every day fi-om Dec. 28 to Jan. 12 inclusive, and some were extremely violent. These seldom occurred before nud-day. Snow fell around us every day, on an average, to the extent perhaps of three inches per day. The snow was commonly wet, and iu small Hakes. Diy, powdery snow did not occur. Hail fell, but not in great quantities or iu pellets of large size. The extreme temperatures noted at the camps were 72°'5 Faht. at 11 a.m., in the tent at the second cam)) on Jan. 9, and 17° Faht., the minimum of the night of Jan. 5, at the third camp. THE TAMIIO OF CHUQUIPOQUIO. 85 that they wmilil imt reappear it' we remained eimtimiously at yet lower pi-essures, and 1 liad i)roposed to test this by stopping on the suniniit for some length of time. The unfortnnate de'iujiiiinciit whieh had jnst occnrred necessitated an entire I'e- casting of my plans, and whilst groaning inwardly under their enforced abandonment a scheme came into my head from the execution of which it seemed possible to derive some consolation. Ill', TAMCO OF CHLHJUII'OOUIO. This idea it was discreet to keep secret until the riglit time arrived fur divulging it, and I proposed to exercise the same reticence n(j\v. The tanibo of Chui|uipiii|uio is liuilt upon the lower, eastern slopes of Chimborazo, which extend alnidst uninterruptedly down to Eiobamba. This town is on flat grountl, at the Ijottom of a huge liasin. Carihuaii'azo, Chimborazo and its continuations bound it uj)on the west ; and on the south it is enclosed by a transverse range (ujxjn which the village of Nanti is situated), that stretches across, and in a manner may be said to connect the Eange of Chimborazo with that which culminates on the eastern side of the basin in the mountain Altar. The drainage of this basin, which from crest to crest is aliout thirty miles across, is collected into one stream of insignificant dimensions — the liiver Clianibo — near the Bridge of Penipe, and, after sweeping round the base of Tunguragua, falls into the Elver Pastassa. 86 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. iv. Ecuador in tliis latitude, commencing from tlie west, has first lowlands extending from the coast as far inland as the villages of Catarama and Ventanas; then comes the Pacific Eange, rising 14,000 feet and upwards in elevation ; ^ next the basin occupied hy numerous small valleys that converge towards the head of the Eiver Chimbo (9-10,000), succeeded by the Eange of Chimborazo; and this is followed by the liasin of Eiobamba, bounded on its opposite side Ijy the Eange of Altar, which sends out spurs many miles yet farther towards the east." The Eange of Chimborazo includes Chimborazo itself, Cari- huairazo on its north-east (extending almost as far as the town of Ambato), and a great Ijlock of mountains on its south ^ which nearly fills tlie blank space on the Eoute IMap tliat is embraced between the Eiver Chimbo and my track from Eio- bamba past Guaniote to Chimbo. The mountain proper, even without these continuations, covers an amount of ground equal to or greater than some of the principal ranges of the Alps. From the pass of Abraspungo to the Great Arenal it measures nearly ten miles, all the intervening space lieing higlier than 14,000 feet above the sea ; while from south-east to north-west, reckoning only the part which is above 9000 feet, it is nearly thirty miles across. Chimborazo as seen from Chuquipoquio has no resemblance to a cone. Its summit appears to be formed of a ridge,'' the upper part of which is everywhere buried beneath snow-covered glacier. Below this, along a large part of its southern side, there ' From the second camp on Chimborazo (16,664 feet) the highest visible point of the Pacific Range was depressed only 2° 20'. ^ Part of this information was obtained on a later visit to this distiict. ' The highest of these mountains closely approach but do not enter the line of perpetual snow. ■* This deceptive appearance is the residt of foreshortening. Chnquipoquio is too close to the summit to let its pi-oportious be seen properly. The mountain is viewed to much greater advantage from Riobamba. The second (i.e. the western) summit of Chimliorazo cannot be seen from CliU(iuipo(iuio, and the highest point is coucealed at Tortorillas. CHAP. IV. THE UTTER. 87 are niiiny precipitous cliffs, that sometimes completely sever the glaciers on tlie apparent sunnuit ridge from the secondary ones below. The glacier j of my map (Glacier de Chuquipoquio) is an example. This and the Glacier de Moreno are conspicuous at the taml>o, and se^'eral others which are laid down upon the map are also more or less seen from it. Between tlieir inferior extremities and Chuquipoquio there are several transverse ridges, which are hill}' rather than mountainous in character;^ and on the eastern side of the tambo the slopes become still more gentle, and tinally die out a little distance short of Kiobamba. Periing returned on the evening of the 16th, bringing tliirteen mules, eight wild-looking Indians, and two persons in uniform who had lieen sent by the Governor of Ambato as a ' guard of honour.' He said that no veliicle of any kind could lie procured, and that the Indians had come to carry me upon a litter. In the early morning they began to construct it, first of all ha\'ing to make ropes to l)ind it together ; and they ^ Oil Jan. 15, Jean-Autoine and I walked acro-ss the eastern end of Cliim- borazo, and turned the corner about a mile from the base of the Glacier de Moreno. We continued round the northern side at a level of about 14,000 feet until we were due south of the summits of Carihuaii-azo, then dropped down into the valley which occupies the dejircssion between the two mountains, and descended it as far as the high road, and so came back to our starting-point. Our ti'ack is not given upon the map. In the course of this walk, we found a Calceolaria (C. rosmarindfolia. Lam.) in abundance near Chuquipoquio ; and several species of Gentiana, of Lupinus and Cerastium, a Valeriana, a Vaccinium and a Ranunculus {Jl. PeruiHamis, Pers.) gi-owing between 12,000 and 14,000 feet. The grasses upon the slopes were principally Poas, Fescues, and Deyeuxias. TSTien about 13,800 feet high we caught sight of a large white spot about a mile off, and found it was an isolated patch of a splendid grass {Gyncrium argcnteum, Nees) gi-owing eight to nine feet high, by the side of a little stream. A few days later we discovered the same species two thousand feet lower, near Mocha, but these were the only localities where it was noticed. A little below 14,000 feet, on the north-east side of the mountain, at the foot of some cliffs, facing the north, I was attracted from a long distance by the flowers of some Currant bushes {liibcs iilandulosuin, R. & P.). This is the greatest elevation at which an example of that Order was obtained in Ecuador. TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. iv. THE ENTRANCE TO THE TAMBO. accomplished the jcili in their own fashion pretty quickly, covering the franiewoi'k of pules with a superstructure of pon- chos. Louis was hoisted intu tlie saddle with his feet well bandaged iu lint and made up iutu Ijundles, and liy nine o'clock we were ready to leave. Ijut it was easier to get into the Taml)o of Chuquipoipuo than out of it. Tlie bill had to be settled, and it could not be obtained, and in the meantime the caravan was kept locked up in the courtyard. When the bill came, its portentous total made me examine the items. It connnenced liy eliarging for each individual thing supplied at a meal. Ih'ead was put down at two shillings for a few slices ; half a pint of milk was entered at half-a-crown, and coflee at three shillings and two- pence ; and after this " the meal " was charged for over again, at a price which was quite adequate irrespective of the previous CHAP. tv. THE ROBBER OF GHUQUIPOQUIO. 89 entries. A uiunber of tilings were put down that had not lieen supplied, and the total was made to amount to considerably more tlian the proper addition of the items. These matters were explained through Perring to the major-domo, who took the account away, and Ivcpt us locked up. After waituig more than an Ikjiu' it came out that Sefior Chiriboga, our worthy hi;)st (who had travelled all the way from Eiobamba " to supply our needs, to watch over and care for us ") was stowed away in a remote corner of the establish- ment, and had been there during the whole of our stay — in lied. I found the possible Marquis stretched out in a miserable den, in an advanced state of intoxication, with a bottle of spirits and a wine-glass on a chair by his side. He was made to understand that there might be trouble if he continued to detain my people, and after some parleying they were set free. I then wasted a half- hour in discussion with the drunken man, who evaded answers, and, sometimes addressing me as 'Your Excellency' and sometimes as 'Doctor,' kept on saying it was ' all right,' and that his servant would see to it ; while the wretched slave (who had no doulit acted under orders) declared that he had followed instructions. " Eight, your Excellency," said the landlord, " quite right, my servant will see to it." " You hear what y(jur master says, — you are to d(j what is right." " jMy master told me to make out the Itill in that way," replied the major-domo. "You hear what your servant says, Seiior Chiriboga." " Quite right, Doctor — take a drink ; yes, it is all right, my servant will do what is right." The keys might have been obtained by force, but such a pi'ocedure would most Kkely have given rise to prejudicial rumours. Of the two evils I thought it was best to be swindled. I paid the entire amount, under protest, and was then unlocked and joined my people, who liad halted almut a mile away, wondering at our non-appearance. The road that we took to Andjato is almost the only one N 90 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. iv. iu the interior of Ecuador. It was constructed by order of Garcia Moreno, a former President of the Eepublic, and it is iu more senses than one the highway to Quito. It connuences at Chuquipoquio, where the traveller to his surprise suddenly drops from a ti'ail or mule -path on to a road liroad enough for four or five vehicles to lie dilven abreast. It has slightly falling gradients on leaving tlie tambo, and it then rises as it passes over the Paramo of Sanancajas — a stretch of bleak moorland forming part of the lower eastern slopes of Carihuairazo. It then descends almost continuously to Ambato, bending round and avoiding the village of Mocha, through which the old track to Quito passes. In the following Jiuie-July I measured by direct measure- ment the distance by the road between Chucpiipoquio and the place marked hy an asterisk on the Map of Chimborazo, and foiuid it was 35,670 feet. When crossing the paramo it is perfectly straight for two and a half miles, and this part and many other sections of it are paved with round, knobbly stones winch are distressing alike to man and lieast. They are found so painful to traverse, that horsemen, baggage - animals, and pedestrians decline to use the road when it is paved in this manner, and go by preference into the little ditches on each side, or even take to the wild m(j(_irland, where there is much less risk of dislocating the ankles. The paved parts of the road are rapidly becoming covered with grass.^ ■After crossing the Paramo of Sanancajas we descended into the basin of Amljato. The litter, carried at the head of tlie ' I concur iu the following remarks by Mr. CIuu-lIi. " Its great width appears to me to be an error. I doubt if any part of it is used by five carts or carriages per day. It is almost entu'ely used as a mule-track, ibr which it sei'ves abundantly well; but the neglect of the Government to keep this excelleut road in repair is fast turning it into nothing but a mule-track. A year or two more, under its present neglect, will make it impassable for carriages. . . . Tliere are no plans in the Govern- ment Offices of tlic cart-road, and the Government tells me that none exist." — Page 49 of a licpoH by Mr. George Earl Church to Mr. Blaine. Washington, Feb. 15, 1883. CARRIED ON THE LITTER IHTO AMBATO. CHM-. IV. THE GOVEKNOR OF AMV.ATO. 91 caravan, escorted liy tlie g-uariLs, seemed tu Ije cuuveyiug some malefactor to prison ; 1 )ut the odS' SHE IS WRITTEN AT AMBATO. 93 of \)\y Slieny. Jean- Antoiue's account of tlie process was a little deficient in lucidity, but as he made it quite clear tiiat riaster of I'aris largely entered into it, and that tlie juice of the grape did not come in at all, I took good care to avoid the Dry Sherry of Ambato. Paolo Oberti, the ingenious manufac- turer of this beverage, had accompanied Dr. Wagner upon his "ascent" of C'liimliorazo, and voluntarily made the declaration which is given below.^ Ambato contains, I imagine, about 5000 inhabitants, yet for six days in the week it wears the lifeless aspect common to all the towns of the interior. On Mondays troops of people pijur in from the surrounding villages, for the most part monnted (as no person who has the least respect for himself goes on foot), the cavaliers accompanied by their dames, I'iding the same beast, astride, — perched in front of their lords, or else behind, holding on to their waists ; while the despised peons trudge liarefooted through the dust, dri\'ing mules or asses bringing rolls of matting, Ixiskets of cackling fowls, or sacks of maize, potatoes and other farm -produce, for sale at the market in the great I'laza. intercession of the Eiiuatov with the Meridian, and you may aid to fix it. With tliis purpose it would be well to profit of the works of Bouguer and Lacoudaniine, and in order that I may be well understood will put in Spanish language, that you may do a good translation into the english, speaking in Quito with the sage Dr. Menthem (a german) the dii'ector of astronomical observatory, besides the inscriptions will put in latin language, because theirs authors themselves have put in that tongue." ' [Translation.] "On the occasion that Paul Oberti accompanied Dr. Maurice Wagner to make an ascent of Chimborazo, on the occideutal side, about the end of 1858 or the beginning of 1859, the Doctor was attacked with intermittent fever, and he likewise met with insurmountable difficulties wliich prevented him from reaching the top of Chimborazo. He was only able to reach the line of perpetual snow. " It is to be understood that the said ascent was made ou the opposite side of the Arenal. They slept in the .sheep-pen nearest to the mountain of Chimborazo, belonging to the farm of Santa Rosa. PiBLo OiiKuri. "Ambato, Jan. 21, 1880." 94 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chai'. iv. Some previous writer has JHstly said tliat this place seems like an oasis in a desert. The hills in its immediate vicinity are mostly Ijare, monotonous ridges c- or amba™. charges of this insect. Though Louis began to impi'ove, it was e\"ident tliat a long time would elapse before we could count upon his assistance, and we others had to consider wliat we should do with our- selves. Tunguragua was the neai'est largo mountain to Ambato, and this had been alread}' investigated by IMessrs. Eeiss and Stiibel.^ Altar and Sangai were too far away. After many con- ' Some account of Tungiiragua is given in tlie little jianiphlet by Dr. Stiiliel entitled Carta del Dr. Atfonno Sliibel a S. E. cl Prcsidcntc dc la Hqmblica, sohrc BUS viajcs a las iiiontititas Chimborazo, Altar, y en especial sobre sus ascensioncs al Tumjuragrm y Cotopaxi. Quito, 1873. Tunguragua does not keep in a state of continual activity like Cotojiaxi and Sangai, though it is liy no means an extinct volcano. It broke out into violent CHAP. IV. THE BAiilN OF AMBATO. 97 snltations it was determined to .sliit't liead-quartei'S to Macliaehi where Jean-Antoine and I cimld find occupation until the dis- abled man had recovered. On Jan. 24 we marched to Latacunga, and on the 2."ith to JIachachi ; as usual, with a train of mules, ha no vehicle — not e\'en a bullock-cart — could Ije olitaineil at Aml)ato.- The basin of Amliato, which we traversed on the 24th, is liounded on the south by a spur thrown out from Carihuairazo in the directinn of Tunguragua : on the west by low mountains for which I iieard no distinctive name ; and ou the east by an important block, containing hifty summits, that are known under the general appellation of the mountains of Llanganati." On approaching Latacunga the slopes draw in from each side, and form the iiortliern boundai'y of the basin, and after passing the town they again retire, and circle round what may be termed the basin of Latacunga, which is bounded and euclused on the north liy the TiupuUo ridge. The Eiver Cutuchi drains the basin of Latacunga, and has not a deej) bed. Alter passing the town, until near Banos, this same river is called the Patate, and throughout the gi'eater part of its course flows through a deep and striking ravine, a portion (if which is well seen from the village of Yamljo. The River Pastassa is formed by the junction of the Patate and the Piver Chambo, coming from the basin of Eiobamba. The tiiwn of Amljato is at the lowest point of the road (8600 feet), which rises gently almost all the way to Latacunga eniiition on Jan. 12, 18S6, and, I am informed liy Mr. Cliamliers, diil niucli damage. Ash from this outburst fell at Guayacjuil. ' At this time an omnibus ran from Ambato to Quito once a week, leaving at mid-day on Tuesdays, and arriving at its destination about 4 p.m. ou Wednes- days. The seats had been engaged in advance, and we were thus unable to make use of it. This was the only coach of any sort running in the interior of Ecuador. - The importance of the mountains of Llanganati will not be a]iprehendcd by any one passing along the C^uito road. Their outlying portions, which are alone seen, do not suggest the rugged and complicated ranges that are in the rear. The complete exploration of this di.stiict alone would afford a traveller good occupation for several years. 98 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. iv. (9140), a place with perhaps 5000 inhaljitaiits, built on luther flat ground, dangerously near to a stream that is lialile to sudden swellings when Cotopaxi is in eruption. We went by advice to the little hotel of Pompeyo Baquero, — the best kept house we entered in Ecuador. Everytliing was clean, and the place was free from fleas, a fact which was the more welcome because Ambato was densely populated with these wild animals. In the apartments we had just quitted there were more fleas per square yard tlian I have known anywliere. When rays of sunlight streamed in through the windows, a sort of haze was seen extending abmit a foot above the floor, caused liy myriads of them leaping to and fro. The favourable impression which was created by the pro- priety of Baquero's hotel was utterly destroyed by what we saw upon leaving this town. At the door of every house on the sunny side of the street leading to the bridge, the ladies of Latacunga were basking in the warmth. Mothers had tlieir children reposing in their laps, and daughters seemed to be caressing their parents. To the non-observant they would have formed sweet pictures of parental and filial affection. A glance was enough to see that all this assemblage were engaged in eating the vermin which they picked out of each other's hair. Accord- ing to the old historians, this habit was established in the country before the Spanish conquest. It is practised now by the hybrid Ecuadorian race as much as by the pure Indians. There were more than two dozen groups on one side of this single street engaged in this revolting occupation, which they carried on with- out shame in the most pulilic manner. Though I shook the dust of this town off my feet, it was impossible to forget the Ladies of Latacunga, for the same disgusting sight was forced upon our attention throughout the whole of the interior. Upon leaving the town, mider the guidance of Mr. Perring, we took the road on the riglit bank (western side) of the Cutuchi. This part of the Moreno road was erased during the eruptions of Cotopaxi in 1877, and .no doubt it will be swept away again, OHAi'. iv. .1 VALIAXr IXX-KEEl'ER. 99 as it is very slightly higher than the ordinary level of the river. Scarcely a person was seen between Latacunga and Callo, for the arrieros (who form almost the whole of the tra\'elling popu- lation of the country) prefer the old road on the left bank (eastern side), as this is more elevated above the stream, and has con- tiguous rising ground to which they can escape in case of inun- dation. The two roads reunite just to the noith of (_'allo, — one of the bladder-like hills, common in Ecuador, that are termed 'panecillos.' Here one commences the a.scent of the Tiupullo ridge (a sort of connecting link between Illiniza and Ituminahui), and rising in serpentine l;)ends reaches the height of 11,559 feet;^ and then, after passing a gently undulating tract which may almost be compared with the Surrey highlands, descends liy somewhat abrupt zigzags into the basin of Machachi. Daylight had gone when we entered upon the longest piece of straight road in Ecuador, and it seemed intei'minable in the darkness. AVhen we arrived at the village every one had fastened up for the night and gone to bed. Pleadings for admittance were un- heeded, so the effect of wlii[)-handles and hob-nailed lioots was tried. Presently a husband and wife were heard in consultation. " My dear," said the masculine voice, " it's robbers ; j/oii had lietter go to the door." It was opened very reluctantly by a dishevelled female, who found it was " only the gringos" and at length tlie way into the courtyard was unbarred, and admitted us to the tand)0 kept liy Antonio Eacines, who became our host for several weeks. ' This is tliu heiglit of the summit of the road. The highest points upon this ridge are three small peaks called Chaupi, which can be seen from long distances. The view from the top of the Tiupullo ridge is one of the most extensive in Ecuador. It embraces Tunguragua and Chimborazo on the south ; Illiniza, Cotopaxi, and Ruminahui close at hand ; and extends as far north as Cotocachi (distant seventy- live miles). The city of (Juito cannot, however, be seen from it. ONE OF MY YOUNG FRIENDS. CHAPTER V. ox AN ASCEXT OF COliAZOX, AXU WALKS IX THE LANES OF MACllArllL Certain circmnstances led uic to say in the UKiniiiig, " Sefior Eacines, now tell me, ni)on your woi'd of liomaii' as a gentle- man, Are there fleas in this house ? " There was just a fractional hesitation, and tlien the tambo-keeper answered with the air of a man who spoke the truth, " Sefior, upon my wtird of lionour, ilierc are." The information had been confirmed l)ef(.ire]iand. It was decided to have a general clear out, and Jean-Antoine, to his credit, became chief housemaid. The contents of our ai)artments wei'e taken into the gallery of the coui'tyard, and were scrulilied, brushed, beaten or shaken, much to tlie w'on. Lo(jk!" — pointing to Jean-Antoine — "that is Senor Juan. What ii line l)eai'd ! " CHAP. V. LIFE IN THE INrEPxIOR. 101 In these openitions Louis coukl not be of iimeli sei'vice, as he needed absohite repose. His time was principally employed in the study of a coarsely -coloured print of the Immaculate Conception, and in watching a little girl in blue, at the general shop on the o^^posite side of the road, who alternated the sale of rolls with the occupation of the Ladies of Latacunga. When he began to liolible al)out, and could sit in a chair on our little balcony, life became more interesting to him ; for his eye could sweep over the whole of the great basin of Machachi, and trace the Quito I'oad from Tambillo to the Tiupullo ridge, with the passing herds of cattle ; or see, right in fri:)nt, the daily thunder- clouds gather round the cliffs of llumiiiahui and Pasochoa, and, in the vista between the two, the needle -crest of Sincholagua, or, on rare occasions, the noble, snow -clad mass of Antisana. Fi'om inir windows on the upper floor of the taml)o, all that passed on the road came under our inspection. In the early morning cattle were shifted from one place to another, and some- times a wild l)ull went along, in charge of mounted men, lassoed fore and aft ;, a horseman in the iwmi towing it liy the horns, and two others each with a separate fastening in the rear, ready to check its pace if it became too frisky, or to give it a touch with their lances if it needed stimulus. As day advanced, arrieros with their teams made their appearance, and they constituted the greater part of the passers- by. Though tras'elling for the sake of \'iewuig their country is a thing unpractised by Ecuadorians, we saw occasionally some one a little out of the common, guing perhaps on a ^•isit to a neighbourmg farm, and such a person was generally worth examination. "When got up correctly, he wears a so-called I'anama hat, a straw hat which will roll up and can be put in the i)ocket, and may cost anything between ten shillings and ten j)ounds.^ To take care of this precious article he puts on a white outer casing, but as this would get spoiled liy rain he ' Tlic lowu.st |iiiuu 1 licarJ (Hiutuil in l,)uito was nine sliilliiijjs. 102 TRAVELS AMONG^^T THE GREAT ANDES. CHAP. V. covers it with oilskin, so that lie has three hats one on top of the other. To protect his eyes he ought to use a pair of blue goggles. Outside, he displays a poncho of superior quality, and underneath it there are several of a coarser kind.' ^Miat he may wear in the way of ti'ousers cannot be said, for they are covered up by buskins made from the skin of some wild animal, and his feet are nearly invisible. If seen, one most likely observes that his toes are peeping through his shoes. But for all deficien- cies thereabouts he makes up in the heel, by his spurs, which are gigantic. The annexed figure i-epresents what is considered a moderate thing in spurs." If he is properly fitted out, he carries at the button-hole a carved diinking-cup, and at his side a ti'e- niendous sheath-knii'e, or ■inacJicta, an article that is supposed to be neces- sary for clearing away branches. A person of distinction will be sti'ong in his whip, which will ' have a wrought -iron handle, as it is found that that description does not Ijreak so readily on the head of a mule as a wooden one, and he will carry a guitar at his saddle-bow. Such a person, accoiding to the phrase ' The ponchos in most general use were coarse woollen ones, measuring 52 X 52 inches. They cost seven or eight shillings apiece, and seemed usually to be made locally. There was a poncho -maker nearly opposite to us at Mach- achi. In Quito and to the north, cotton ponchos are frelies only to the inkrioi: The western (or outer) slopes of the Pacific Range of Ecuador would be accounted steep by any one. ■■ This was the ease with Pasochoa (13,961) and Atacatzo (14,892). We actually took a donkey above 14,000 feet on Pichincha. CHAP. V. A liED-LETTER DAY. 107 Illiuizii WHS obvidusly the kit'tiest of tlie several lucmiitaiiis wliicli have lieen enumerated, and I sent Jean-Antoine on Jan. 29-30 to reconnoitre it ; but as lie reported that it was neaily inaccessible from the noilh we turned our attentions to Corazon, at first ludicrously undei'-estimating its distance. A^'e went out late one day, expecting to reach the top and come liack again, and did not even get to the foot of the actual peak. This, howe\"er, was a red-letter day — we saw a dead donkey, under a hedge about 1500 feet alwve Machachi ; and a few hundred feet higher met a scorpion who was coming dnwnlull.' Corazou was ascended a century and a half ago by La Con- damine and Bouguei'. The former says expressly (at \). 58 of vol. 1 of his Journal du Voyage) that they made the expedition upon July 20, 1738.- In the prosecution of their work, they encamped twenty - eight days somewhere upon the mountain (douljtless upon its eastern side), liut there are no precise indica- tions of the route which was taken liy them, nor could any information l^e obtained at Machachi, though a certain Ecuadorian ' It has liccii iili/ntitied as Brotheas suhnitcns, Gervais, liy Prof. E. Kay Laiikester. Scorpions were very seldom seen in the open, thougli they were almndant at Macliachi, and could be found almost everywhere by turning over stones. At Quito, too, they were numerous in old walls. But, througliout tlie entire journey, at all our upper camps we did not discover a single one, and they could hardly have been overlooked, as the ground was always levelled for the establishment of the tents. It is probalile, therefore, that 12,000 feut is aliout the upper limit of the range of the scorpion in Ecuador. - '■ Uu vent froid et piipiant nous couvrit en peu de temiis de verglas : il nous fallut en plusieurs endroits gi'avir contre le roeher, en nous aidant des pieds et des mains : enfin nous atteignimes le sommet. . . . Ce sommet etoit eleve de 230 toises au dessus de notrc signal, et surpassoit de 40 le Pic dc PilchincJui , oil nous avions canipe I'annee priicedente ; aussi le mercure etoit-il plus bas d'environ deux lignes au Cm-a^on : il s'y soutenoit Jl 15 ponces 10 lignes. Personne u'a vii le baronietre si bas dans Pair libre ; et vraisemblablement personne n'a monte a uue plus giaude hauteur : nous etions 2470 toises au dessus du niveau de la mer." In Histoirc dc V Academic Royalc des Sciences (annee 1746), Paris, 1751, in a list of the highest mountains of 'the Province of Quito,' this mountain is entered "El Corai;on, la plus giande hauteur oil Ton ait moute." 108 TL'AVELS AMONGST TllE GREAT ANDE^. named Lorenzo vowed that he had heen to the top. Tliis man was engaged to act as our nuide.^ Tlie nioimtain Corazon has received its name from a resem- blance it is supposed to have to a heart. It is a prominent olijeet from Machachi, placed almost exactly midway between Atacatz(j and llliniza. Its slopes extend to tlic outlying village of ^Vloasi, '^^^ %l:*'^^ MACHACHI AND CURAZON. and after rising gently and then abruptly lead one to easy grass land, which continues uninterrui)tedly to the foot of a clilf about 800 feet higli, that is fmind at the top of the mountain. With trouble, one might ride, upim the eastern side, ti) within a thousand feet of the summit. On some clays tiie numntain was almost covered with smiw dnwn to 14,.500 feet, and on ntliers no snow whatever was seen on any part of it. ' Local gviidaucc is iisufiil over the lower slo]ies, as tliey contain large eartli- i|Uake fissures {qiicbraiiiis) wliioli are occasionally iiuite imiiassable. CHAP. V. '^ ASCENT OF CORAZUN.'^ W.) Lori'ii/(i led us til a plufe a long way tn tlic south ol' the suuiuiit, and then evidently came to the end of his knowledge. On his 'ascent' he liad gone as far as one cau go with the hands in the pockets, and had stopped when it was necessary to take them out.^ We continued in the same direction to see what the western side was like, and presently put on the rope. Our guide was the first to be tied up, and, though he said little, his face expressed a good deal. Possibly he supposed that he had been inveigled to this lonely spot to be sacritieeil on the cairn of stones put together by Jean-Antoine, which bore a suspicious resemblance to an altar. The western side of the highest part of Corazon, like the eastern side, is formed of a great clili'. Snow gviUies run up into it, and one of these, towards the south end of the lidge, seemed to promise easy access to the sununit. We had only progressed a few yards on this cuiilair when the clatter and buzz of falling stones was heard, which flew down at a tremendous pace, (piite invisible as they passed liy. We retired under cover of some rocks to read the barometer,- and then returned to the south end of the peak, skirted the base of the eastern cliff, worked I'ound to the north side, and ascended by the ridge that descends towards Atacatzo.^ ' Tliis man, limvevcr, was a f^ooil fVllow ; ulu'erfiil ami willini;, ami an excellent pedestrian. - Tlie original unieilueeil reailinj; at 8.45 a.m. was 17'3S3 inches, temp. 37° Faht. ^ Lorenzo remained below, trying to dry his tronscrs. We started IVuni Machachi at nndnight on Feb. 1, reached the .sumndt at noon on Feh. 2, left it at 3.10 ii.m., and, rejoining onr gnide, continued towards Machachi nntil we struck the route taken on Jan. 27 ; and then, as it was getting dusk and the ground was not fanuliar to our man, thought it better to bear away to the south, and return by the route which was taken in the morning. We got back to Machachi at 7.45 [i.m. The route on this day was unnecessarily circuitous, and is not given on tlie map. The ascent of Coi-azon can be made most easily by taking the line wc fol- lowed on .Jan. 27, as far as we went, and completing it in the same way as ripon Feb. 2. The track on the map combines portions of the routes of these two days. 110 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. The ujiper part of Conizon is a great wall, roughly flat on the top, which is, I l.ielieve, a dyke — a mass of lava that has welled up through a fissure. At its highest, it is nearly level over a length of 250 feet, and is only a few yards across from east to west.^ At 1.15 p.m., on the highest point, the mercurial barometer read IG'974 inches, at a temperature of 43° Faht. The height deduced (15,871 feet) is slightly greater than that assigned to the mountain by La Condamine (2470 toises), and by Eeiss and Stiiljel (4816 metres). The extreme difference between the three measurements amounts to seventy-five feet. There was on the summit an indication of a previous ascent in two dressed fi'agnients of idck, about nine inches long, which caught the eye directly we aii'ived. They were a lilack, scoriaceous lava, similar ti.i the highest rock obtained on Chim- borazo, and subsequently on \arious parts of the cone of ('ot. P>enhani has I'eferred it to the genus Ji/iin.odrili(s of Perrier, and thinks it is probably the same species that was sub- sequently found upon Cayandje, wliich he names IL Evuadoriensis} Few earthworms were seen at great elevatiims in Ecuador, and the summit of Corazon was much the highest point at which one was obtained. The beetle is fonnd by Mr. Bates to belong to the genus GoIjmcIcs, and is described by him at p. 20 of the Siqjplemcntarji Aj^pciulix (C diop&is). It was also tal^cn on Pichincha. The scantiness of the collection on the summit of Corazon is to be attributed to tlie hailstorms which occurred while we were there. Eain, sleet, hail, or snow often impeded or completely put a stop to this description of work. When the atmospheric conditions were favourable something was always obtained, wliere- ever we went ; and at the greatest heights I laid hands upon everything that was seen, either animal oi' vegetable, anticipating that the zoological side, at least, would yield much new to science.^ Whether this sliould or should not prove to be the case, the occa- sions afforded opportunities of contriljuting to the knowledge of the range of species in altitude. The results, so far as they have been worked ont, are presented in the Snp^^lcmentary Appendix, and in the Tables in Chapter XIX. the representatives of tlie vaiious Orders are enumerated which were obtained at the most considerable elevations. By the expression range in altitude I mean the difference in level of the highest and lowest points at which any particular ' See Cll.^pter XIX. Tliis is tlie fouitli sjiecies that lias liecii fouiul of the genus Rhinodrilus. The three otliers came from Venezuela, Siirinam, and Demerara. ^ The Botany of the interior of Eeuador liad been investigated by tlie late Prof. William Jameson, who resided many years at Quito, and made exeursions in its neighbourhood. For some time lie licld t\TO a]ipointments in tlie eapilal, lieing a Professor of Botany he was madi', very appropriatelj'. Master of (lie Mint. CHAP. V. BANGE IN ALTITUDE. 113 species may be found' If one slmuld 1ie ol)tained or observed at the level of the sea and also at 10,000 feet above it, its observed range in altitude would lie 10,000 feet. Most things, either animal or vegetable, have a much more limited range than this, yet there are some which attain or even exceed it. Insects in the Great Andes of the Equator range higher than birds. At the greatest heights they were found less iipou the surface than in the soil, sometimes living amongst stones im- bedded in ice, in such situations and numbers as to preclude the idea tiiat tliey were stragglers. Small in size, and unattractive in appearance, they have hitherto been entirely overlooked. Though some species were obtained at a greater ele^'ation above the sea than I observed the Condor, their range in altitude appears to be small. They were found at these high situatii.ms and nowhere else, though the same species sometimes recurred at similar eleva- tions upon widely -separated mountains. Few persons have concerned themselves, in any part of the world, witli entomcjlogv at great altitudes. Such remarks as have been made upon it have generally luul reference to the stray individuals that are termed stragglers, which, generally being wind -borne, and found xipon the surface, are those which most readily catch the eye. Thus Ilumbuldt (who ignores" what may be termed the residential population) says, in Aspects of Ncdure, vol. 2, pp. 33-4:— " E\'eii butterflies are found at sea at great distances from tlie coast, being carried tliere by the force of tlie wind when storms come off' the land. In the same involuntary manner insects are transported into the upper regions of the atmosphere, 16,000 or 10,000 feet above the plains. The lieated crust of tlie earth occasions an ascending vertical current of air, by which ' Some persons may attach the same meaning to the expression vertical range. I venture to think that term is not felicitous. Comparatively few things can be .said to have any vertical range, and many have none. - The Zoology of Humboldt and Bonpland's Voyage contains onl}- about a dozen species of iusects for which localities in Ecuador arc mentioned, and not one of these appears to have come from a greater elevation than ten tliousand feet. Q 114 TRAVELS AMONGHT THE GREAT ANDES. chap. v. light botlies are borne upwards. . . . When Bonpland, Carlos Slontufar and myself reached, on the 23rd of June, 1802, on the eastern declivity of the Chimborazo the height of 19,286 English feet, we saw winged insects fluttering around us. We could see that they were Dipteras, but ... it was impossible to catch the insects. . . . The insects were flying at a height of about 18,225 feet. . . . Somewhat lower down, at about 2600 toises (16,680 feet), also therefore within the line of perpetual snow, Bonpland had seen yellow butterflies flying veiy near the ground." The aim aiul intention of this passage is to shew that mseets are transported mvohmtarily to great altitudes, and this un- questionably often occurs. Most persons wlio have travelled in mountainous regions have found, at one or another time, in very elevated situations (sometimes on snow or glacier), insects which, from their known habits and haliitats, cannot have domi- ciled themselves on the spot;^ and tlieir actual transportation ill ({iiaiitities, in ascending currents of air, lias occasionally been witnessed. ISut it would be erroneotis to assume that insect-life in the neighboui'hood of the snow -line in Equatorial America is limited to stragglers, or that they form a consideral:)le percentage i)f it. The upper zones of tlie CJreat Andes have a residential population," and I sliall endeavour to shew, at a later point, that the 'yellow butterfly,' wliicli Humboldt uses to give point to liis remarks, probalih' comes within the category of ' perma- nent residents'; and, il' it does, it is not a lia])py example of a wind-borne straggler. At first, tlie dimensions ol' the great basin of Maehachi were iindei'rated or unappreciated. 01)jects whicli wei'e supposed to be a mile distant sometimes }iroved to be two or tln-ee miles away. Woods looked like clumps of bushes, and impassable ravines appeared mei-e ditclies. When we lieeame lietter acquainted with it, the bare, almost naked-looking jilain was found to ' Examples are given in Cliaptcis \'I., XIIl,, anil XIX, - Ill the Supp. App. tlicre will be Ibiiiiil 98 species of insects wliiuli were taken at 10,000 feet and njiwards. Of these, 15 are known, 71 an- new tn science, and 12 are not identified. CHAR V. A ZOOLOGIST'^ PAHA DISE. 115 coiitiiiu uiisuspecteil dell.s and iioiiks decorated with teni.s,' ami hidilcii lanes, wandering in concealed (puiinuhn^, gay with Salvias, Fuclisias, and A^erbenas,- giving shelter to a countless ])opulation, varied in habits, different in natures, whose range was determined by light and shade, heat and cold, moisture and vegetation — many tinnd and slu'inking t'nim oljservation, seldom straying lar from the spots that were home or habitation, where they must be sought to Ije found. I'umas and deer ranged (iver tlic liigh, rugged gruuiid ; foxes, weasels, and opossums dwelt un the lower slopes; and down in the basin there was a Zoologist's paradise. Butterflies al)iive, below, and around;'' now here, now there, l)y many turns and twists dispilaying the brilliant tesselation of their under-sides. Some congregated in clusters aths; and legions of spiders ' Aspl.cnium Trichoinancs, L. ; Cystoptcris fmgtlis, Benili.; Po/ypoiliitm aUiijri- oides, Hook, (abundant); P. amjitsttfolium, Sw. ; P. hu-ldirni, Bory ; P. muronim, Hook. ; and P. plclcjiiin, Schlecht. - Tlic following were some of the more common plants in the heil<,'es and ditches; — Lcpiidium HumhohUii, DC; Cassia lomcittosa, L. ; litcbus sp.; Fitdisia pcliolaris, Kth. ; Ckuquiratjaa lancifolia, H.B.K. ; Dalea Mnlisii, H.B.K. ; Solanum ochrophyllum, Van Henrck ? ; Alonsoa caulialala, R. & P. ; Salvia vermkifoUn, H.B.K. ; Stachys elliptica, H.B.K. ; Verbena jjrostmfn, Br. ; Bomarca Caldcisiana, Herb.; and Cyperus melanoslachyus, H. & K. A very queer Howering-plant, resem- bling a mushroom, was also abundant at Machaehi. It has been described in the Journal of Botany, June 1890, by Jlr. E. CI. IJaker, who says, "in its Horal characters it resembles Hclosis, and in its rhizome Coryncea ; it is therefore interesting as form- ing a connecting link between these two genera. This will make the third species of Hclosis, the othei's being H. Gayanensis, Rich., and IP. Mcxicana, Lieb." ' We obtained a Steroma ; three species of Pedal iodes ; Lymanopoda Iciena, Hew. ; L. tcner. Hew. ; Agraulis tjlyccra, Feld. ; Pyrameis Mmtera (Fabr.) ; P. caryc (Hiibn.) ; Junonia vellida (Fabr.) ; Lycmiia kod, Druce ; L. Andicola, n.sp. ; *Picris xanthodice, Lucas ; P. suadclla, Feld. ; Colias Icshia (Fabr.) ; * C. dimcra, Doubl. & Hew. ; Papilio Anunacs, Kollar ; Pamphila phylxus (Drury) ; and an Aiicyloxypha. Those marked with an asterisk were very niunerous. ■' Lioccpludus Irachycephalas (A. Dum.). 116 TRAVELH AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. v. pervaded the grass, many very beautiful — frosted -silver l)acks, or cui'iiius, like the saltigrades, who took a few steps and then gave a leap. There were crickets in infinite numbers ; and flies innumerable, from slim daddy-long-legs to ponderous, black, hairy fellows known to science as Dcjcanicc; hymenopterous insects in profusion, including our uld friend the Bishop of Ambato, in company with another formidable stinger, with chrome antenuc'e, called by the natives ' the Devil ' ; and occasional Fhasiiias (caballo de palo) crawling painfully about, like animated twigs.-' In the early morning it was generally fine, though seldom clear. The weather always degenerated as day ad\'anced, and at lUKju the sun was scai'cely ever seen. Soon afterwards gathering clouds proclaimed a coming storm. When the thunder -echoes ceased to roll between Corazon and Euminahui, Jean-Autoine and I iised to turn out for our walks in the lanes of IMachachi. The short equatorial day was nearly over. The hum of the bee and the chii'ping of the cricket had ceased, and the toilers in the fields had already retired. We met no one, and there were no sounds (except perhaps the distant notes of a reed-pijie played by some Indian lad wending his way homewards) until the frogs ^ began their music ; and when this presently died away, ' The following Beetles, first obtained at Macliachi, are described in the Huji}). App., jip. 8-65: — Anisotarsus Bradyto'idcs, rdmalcUus variipes, P. o.njnodcs, Ftcrostichas liodcs, Colpodcs alticola, Uroxys JatesuJmtiis, Claripalpus Whymiuri, Jiarolhcus Andinus, * Baryxcmis lequatorius, and Eiirysthca angiislkollis, by Mr. H. \V. Bates ; Pltilonthus Whympcri, * P. divimis, Meloe scxguttatus, and Anaiica dcbilis, by Dr. D. Sharj) ; Astylus his - scxguUatus (tlie most widely distributed beetle iu tlie interior of Eeuador, found almost everywhere between 9000 and 13,.')00 feet) by the Rev. H. S. Gorham ; and * Xaiipadus scgnipcs by Mr. A. S. Olliff. Those marked by an asterisk were only found at Maehachi. The rest were subsequently- obtained elsewhere, at similar, or at slightly higher and kiwcr elevations. - Pkryniscus hcvis, Gtlir. ; Hylodcs unislrigalus, Gthr. : and Notolrcma mnr- supialum (Dnm. & Bihr. ). The Hylodcs (so-called 'tree-frogs') were taken on the ground. CHAI'. V. WALKS IX THE I. AXES OF MACHACHI. 117 ail alniiist jiert'eet tstiUuess reigned — the air was scarcely tlis- turbed l:iy tlie noiseless flight of the gigantic moths, and the gentle twittering of the little Idrds making snug for their long night. Our rooms fiecaine a museum, and sometimes almost a mena- gerie. Aided liy a trmip of willing Iielpers, never a day passed withiiut acquiring things tliat had not been seen before;^ for " Tlie Almighty Maker has throughout Discrimiuated each from each, by strokes And touclies of his haud, with so mucli art Diversified, that two were never fouud Twins at all points." In these pursuits I was much assisted by the tauibo- keeper, wliii interested himself in furthering our work. He introduced me til Gyclopium cydopum, the only fish in the interior — a high- bred fish, with a string of names that a Duke might envy ; ' and was the means of procuring the first Ampkijjod collected in Ecuador. " Sefior Antonio," I said to him one day, " Mr. James (_)rton, ]\I.A., I'rofessiir of Xatural History in Vassar College, New York, observes ^ that the only crustacean found in the interior 'is a small cray-fish abounding in the filthy, stagnant watei'S about Quito.' Now couldn't you raise a crali or a shrimp, or something of that kind, lor it is A'cry sad to think that there are no crustaceans in Ecuador." The good man did not know whether I was speaking in jest or in earnest, so I set to work with my pencil to enlighten him, and invented forms which it ' Oue afternoon we made an e.xcursion to a panccillo on Corazon, and beat the bushes into an old umbrella. So far as they are detei'mined, everything obtained was new. The following species are included in the Supplementary Ajtpcndiv. Coleoptera : — Cercomctes Andicola, Ollitf (p. 58); Pandelctius argcntatus, Olliff (p. 62) ; Aphthona Ecuador icnsis, Jacohy (p. 85) ; and Diholia viridis, Jacoby (p. 86). Rhynchota : — Margus tibialis, Harmosles Corazonus, H. montivagus, Dionyza variegata, and Lygus excehus (pp. 113-4). Most of these species were obtained only at this locality. ■ See Supp. App., pp. 13/-9. ^ In I'hc American Naluralid, 1S72, p. 650. 118 TRAVELH AMONGST THE GliEAT ANDES. i'hai>. v. wimld lie difficult to assign to any existing genera. Antuniu Eacines still lodkeil perplexed, as well he might; but at last his face brightened, and he held up a forefinger, and beckoned. " Come with me." He led me to a little ditch about half a mile outside the village, with stagnant water, and amongst the weeds I got my first crustacean, which has been identified by the Eev. T. I!. R. Stelibing as Hijaldla inermis, S. I. Smith. ^ Thus the time passed quickly and pleasantly. Still, it must not be supposed that our lives were always as sweet as rose- water, for trouble sometimes arose through the want of that ciju- venient, universal language which it is expected will prevail when the lion lies down with the lamb. Ecuadorians have their habits and customs, many of which we did not understand — nor did they understand ours. At Maehachi it was customary fur the natives to keep mongrel cui'S as guardians of their property ; and these brutes, though somewhat respectful to cavaliei'S, looked upon a pedestrian as, presumably, a person of Iiad chai-acter, and did not understand that a, man ma}- wish tn pluck a flower without desiring to steal a poncho. The first time I took a solitary walk in the lanes of IMacliachi it was dark before I rejoined the main road; and upon entering the suburb that stretches a mile to the south of the tandx) several of these curs rushed sM ■; ./■■l;,rvij/i^r;v, INDIAN REED-PIPES. SNOW-CORNICES. CHAPTEE VI. ON COTOPAXI AND ILLINIZA. When I was detained, a very iimvilliiig guest, in tlie inn at f'lniquipii([nio, kept by the possible Marquis, a project entered my head from the execution of which I pi'omised niA'self some compensation for having been oliliged to quit C.'himborazo prema- turely. My vexation had Ijeen keen at being compelled to retreat i'rom that mountain after so much labour had been expended in establishing our lofty camps ; and although this was lessened when I learned the real cause of the defection of my assistants, and anger gave place to pity ibr the unfortunate siiflerei', it did not alter the fact that we left before our work was finished, and that it was interrupted at an interesting point. AVe had learned on Chimborazo that mountain -sickness was a reality. Although the more acute symptoms had disapjjeared, whilst remaining at low pressures, it was not certain that they would not reappear; still less that they would not recur if we remained continuously at a yet lower pressure than we had CHAP. VI. THE PROJECT. 121 experienced at the third camp, namely, abdut 1(J inches. Tn settle this matter, so far as it could be done in Ecuadcir, I had intended to ascend Cliiuiborazo again, perhaps several times, and had even projected a residence on the snow plateau at its summit. This now could not be done. The stores and baggage which had cost so much time and trouble to take up had all been brought down again, the camps were Ijroken up, and the information which was desired could only be oljtained l>y begin- ning afresh in some other cpiarter. All the other Great Andes of the Equator were believed to be lower than Chimborazo, and consecpieiitly we were not likely to add materially to what we had alieady learned concerning the effects of diminished atmospheric pressure by simple ascents and descents of them. Moreover, two of the loftiest — Antisana and Cayambe — were as yet unclimbed, and, even should we get up them, it was probable that we should be unable to remain on their summits. So my thoughts naturally turned to the great volcano Cotopaxi. It was reported that there was a large slope of ash at the apex of its terminal cone, and I proposed to encamp upon it, close to the top of the mountain. If this could be done, and if we should find that we could remain at this height (19,500 feet) for a length of time without suffei'ing inconvenience from the low reigning pressure, it would substantiallv advance our infoiination, and would give good grounds for hope that one might carry exploration elsewhere as high as 24,000 or 25,000 feet alwve the level of the sea; though it would still leave in uncertainty the possibility of attaining the veiT highest summits in the world. It is idle to suppose that men will ever reach the loftiest points on the globe, unless they are able to camp out at considerably greater elevations than twenty thousand feet. The chalice of having a nocturnal view of the interior of the crater, though a secondary, was a powerful attraction. Those who had hitherto ascended Cotopaxi had remained a very R 122 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDEf!. chap. vi. short time on the top, and had only obtained I'ragnientaiT views of the crater, and liad given rather divergent accounts of it. Opportunities do n(jt often occur of hjoking liy night into the bowels of a first -I'ate, active volcano, and the idea of camp- ing upon the apex of the cone grew upon me, the more I thought about it. By doing so, I proposed to kill two birds with one stone. The project could not lie executed witliout the active co-operation of l)oth the Carrels, and it was useless to mention it so long as the frost-bitten feet of Louis remained unhealed. I theref(jre kept the scheme to myself until tlie times appeared favourable ; anil when Louis began to mend, and there was a prospect of his lieing al)le to get to woi'k again, I broached the matter diplomatically and circuitously ; and, concealing my principal motive, harjied ujKin the secondary ones ; spoke of the famous eruptions of (Jiitopaxi, I'eferred to the discrepancies in the detei'minations of its height, to the uncertainty of the nature of its crater, the delights of being warm in Ciinip, and tlie opjiortunity of having a peep into the subtei'ranean world, and contrasted the dicta of various eminent authorities to shew how little volcanic knowledge had advanced, and spoke long without effect. At last, my Chief of the Staff said one day, in his own peculiar idiimi, "You have raised within me a great desire to look into this animal," and I knew then that the matter was as good as settled, for the younger man seldom opposed the wishes of his imperious cousin. When the gashes in the frost-bitten feet of Louis began to heal, and he couhl holiljle about, preparations for our adventure were set agoing. To lessen risks, I divided the instruments ; we studied economical metliods of cooking ; added to our wraps, and rehearsed generally; and then we recrossed the Tiupullo ridge^ to the farm of liosariii, to get a iirofile view of the mount- ' Stopped for a time at tlie tanilio of S. Ana, and iiicpiired of tlie man who kept it if lie had ever known stones thrown ont by Cotopaxi as far as his place, CUM'. VI. coral' AM. VIZ ain. At daylireak (Ui i\w lunniinL; t'dlluwiug uiir airi\'al (Fell. 8), the iiuiiiisiiig mass of Cotopaxi became visiljle. The atmospliere of smoke and haze wliich is always hanging about it subdued its details without concealing its general contour, and produced au effect of stu])endous size and enormous height. A large (puuitity of steam issuing fmni the crater was first of all l)onie towards us : tlien, as shewn iu the engraving, was drifted to the south-west, and finally was carried northwards. The farm of liosario is nearly due west of (.'otopaxi, distant about eighteen and a half miles, and its position is sufficiently elevated (10,o56 feet) to enable one to judge the proportions of the mountain. I found that the general angles of the northern and southern slopes of the cone were rathei' h'ss than 30°, and a week later, when due north of it, I observed that the eastern and western sides, though somewhat steeper, scarcely exceedeil 32".' Tiiese moderate angles confiimed the impi-ession that this ascent could be made with facility, and that such troubles as niigiit arise would be more due to too much wind, or to want of wind, and to the labour incident upon carrying a (juantity of material to a great ekn'ation, than to the nature of the gi'ound which we should tra\erse. Cotopaxi is an ideal volcano. It comports itself, \dlcanically speaking, in a regulai' ami well-behaved manner. It is not one of the pro\'oking soit — exploding in paroxysms and going to sleep directl)' afterwards. It is in a state of perpetual activity, and has been so ever since it has liad a place in history. There are brftier mountains which liave been volcanoes, and there are active \olcanoes with larger craters, yielding greatei' quantities of hna, but the sunnnit of Cotopaxi, so far as is and he said ho had. Asked as to the size of the largest, he picked up one about three iuehes in diameter. ' They have been stated by others to be 40° and upwards. In the view of Cotopaxi given in Huniboklt's Vues dans fa Cordillirrs, its northern and southern slopes are represented rising at an angle of 50". This very misleading view has been copied into many other works. 124 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. vi. known, has the greatest absolute ele^'ation above the le\'el of the sea of all \- the road, and swept away arriercis with their teams and e\'erythiug upon it, erased houses, farms and factories, and destroyed every bridge in its course. "Wlien 1 jjassed this way, I found the country a wilderness.'' Many eruptions have occurred of this description, and upon ' Tlie oljservation of the natives of Mulalo that it bubbled over suddenly in a number of places at once, and the immediate iiTUption of the floods in all directions is stronj; evidence. The opinion that the lava retreated as rapidly as it rose is entertained because the flood ceased in an hour or loss, and a lar^e fpiantity of ice near the summit remained unmelted. - According to Dr. T. Wolf blocks of ice were carried eight to ten leagues from the mountain, and some of them remained for months after the eruption upon the plain of Latacunga, and left, as they melted, hillocks of rubliish three or four feet high, and several yards iu diameter. " The flood which went north, though eijually formidalile, did less damage to property. For a number of miles it traversed uninhabited country. The principal loss on this side was caused by the obliteration of the cotton lactories at Chillo belonging to the Aguirre family. I was told by one of their workmen that some of the machinery was transported thirty miles, down into the ravine of (iiiallalianilia. Messrs. Aguirre have now put up other mills on higher ground. 128 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GEE AT ANDES. some occasions the mountain lias Ijelchecl tVivtli flame as well as ashes. Several persons whom I examined on this point seemed to be alile to discriminate between the apjjearance of fire-lit clouds COTOPAXI IN ERUPTION IN 1743. and of actual flame, and positively attirmed that they had seen flames rise above the lip (if the cratei', though not to a great lieight. La Condamine, in his Joii.rnal dn Voi/a(/c, relates that in 1743-4- flames rose at least two thousand feet above the top (if the miiuntain, and Iiis assuciates Juan and I'lloa, in their CHAi'. vr. FIRST ASCENT OF COTOPAXI. 129 Vojjnrie hisforique, give the (|u;iiut picture wliicli I repruiluce herewith. There need be little wonder that there are so few exact ac- counts of the great eruptions of Cotopaxi. No one lives in close contiguity to the vent which is the natural channel of escape for the imprisoned and compressed gases that work tlie mischief, and tluis the earlier admonitions of approaching eruptions often pass unnoticed; and when the mightier ones commence, every person within sight or hearing, knowing too well either from ex- perience or from tradition the results which are likely to ensue, concerns himself more in safeguarding life and property tlian in philosophical considerations of the forces of nature. Ecuadorians have left the investigation of their great volcano to strangers. A century and a half ago. La Condamine proposed to attempt its ascent, but liad to aliaudon his project because no one would accompany him. Huud)oldt, at the lieginning of the century, after entertaining the same idea, finally came to the conclusion that it was impossible to reach the biink of the crater. So far as I am aware, the first person to reach the summit was Dr. W. Eeiss, of Berlin, on Xov. 27, 1872.1 Starting from tlie village of ilulalo, witli ten natives, he appears first to have trav- elled about north-east, and subseqiiently east -north -east. The same route was taken by Dr. A. Stlibel, of Dresden, in March, 1873;- and, in September, 1877, the sunnnit was reached by Dr. T. Wolf, a Jesuit long resident in Ecuador, who started from the same direction as the others,^ but adopted a more northerly line of ascent, in consequence of finding that the route they had taken on the actual cone liad lieen rendei'ed impassable by tlie eruptiiin ' See Nature, April 10, 1873. I wa.s informed in Eciiailor that an ascent had been niiide hy a native of Lataeunga, before Dr. Reiss, but I was unable to obtain any evidenee that such had been the case. - An account in Spanish was published at Quito by Dr. Stiibel iu the form of a letter to the President of the Republic of Ecuador (see note, p. 96), and also appeared in French in the Biilhtin dc la Soeiete ilc Geoyraphk, Paris, 1874. ^ An account was published by him in Spanish, at Guayaquil. 130 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT AXDES. chap. vi. of June 27. Lastly, in .TiinuaiT, 1S78, the sunnnit was gained by FreiheiT Max von Tliielniann, wlio, starting from Macliaclii, passed through the hamlet of Pedregal to the mountain liy the route shewn in dotted line upon my map, and completed the ascent by the same way as Dr. Wolf.^ The accounts of these gentlemen agree in general \-ery well ; though none of them saw to the bottom of the crater, and they differed amongst each other as to the height of the mountain and several matters of detail. By remaining a greatei' length (if time in the field I hoped to clear up, or at least to bring more intu harmony, various discrepancies; and in going to the mountain I proposed to follow tlie line taken by Von Thiehnann, for, i'rom a description which he was good enough to give me personally, it appeared to be more desirable than the way by ]\IulaIo. I brought a letter of introduction to the pi-oprietor of the fai'm, and was recei^'ed very courteously.- His house was the nearest one to Illiniza, and we came to it hoping to combine an ascent of that mountain with our inspection of L'otopaxi. No informa- tion in regard to Illiniza is in print, and this is not a matter for surprise, as it is almost perpetually shrouded in mist. I'ersons living in its neighbourhood say that it is seldom or never perfectly clear. At one or another time we were seventj'- eight days in it.s vicinity, yet we did not see the whole of the mountain on any single occasion.'' Only jiartial views were olitaiiied, lasting a i'cw ' See tlie Alpine Juiirnul, Aug., ISTS, pp. 45-47. - There wa.s the same uneleanliness about tliis haeienda tliat was reiuail^ed in most other places. My apartment had the ajipearauce of not having been cleaned or even .swept since the building was erected. The whole ceiling was covered with a dense black mass of house-flies, clustered over one another to the depth of perhaps half an inch. I could not have iiiiiigined that such a spectacle was possible. There were .also tens of thousands on the ujnicr part of the walls. Feeling something hard under the pillow I looked underneath, and found a prayer-book, a revolver, and a guitar. This was app.arently the bedroom of the lie.ad of the establishment. ^ In Jlay and June, Louis Carrel stopped for five weeks at JIachaclii, and in this time only saw Illiniza twice. CHAP. vr. ILLINIZA. i:51 minutes, ami \is\ially it was completely iiivisiMi'. it happened tluit shortly liefore sunset on Feb. 7 a strong north-west wind set in and cleared the summit of clouds, and I'roni this casual glance an ascent appeared to be a certainty. This mountain is probably seventh in rank of the Cireat Andes of the Equator. It is slightly inferior in elevation to Sangai and is loftier than Carihuaii'azo. It has two peaks, or rather it is composed of two mountains that are grouped together, the more northern of which is the lower, and is called Little Illiniza.^ The sunnuits of l)(jth are sharp, and during the time of our stay in Ecuador they were completely covered by snow. The proprietor of the hacienda could give us no information as to the nature of the country to their west, and it is proliable that for some dis- tance, at least, it has never been seen by human eye. He was, however, well acc^uainted with the lower slopes of the mountain on the eastern side, and said that his people would be able to conduct us to a consideraljle height. Upon leaving the hacienda on Feb. 8, under local guidance, our route was nearly nurth iur tour miles, partly ii\er cultivated ground, rising gently must '\^ the way; and it tlien turned sharply to the west, up a hmg spur tlu'nwn out from the main southern ridge of the mountain. The course up the spur was about N.AV. by W. until we had reached the lieight of 14,*700 feet, and then our local guides came to the end of their know- ledge and (lur animals struck work. There were nine of them, and eight persons to drive, yet there was more ditficulty in making them advance tlian on Cliunborazo wlien moving from the first to the second caniii.- As usual, mine of their loads ' Tliey have lieeu measured Ijy Jlessis. Reiss and Stiibel, wlio assign the heights 17,40.5 and 16,936 feet to them respectively. I think tliere is a gi'eatev difference in their elevation, and (for the reason stated in Chapter XVI.) that Little Illiniza is not so high as 16,9:36 feet. - This probably arose from other causes besides dindnution in pressure. The ground was steeper, and they had traversed a greater distance than cm the other occasion. 132 Tli'AVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. vi. exceeded 160 ll.)s. We pushed on iWr a iuw hundred feet higher, up steep slopes of volcanic sand, ha\"iug a very vague idea of the situation of tlie summit, as we liad been in clouds nearly all the day ; and, upon arriving at some sufficiently fiat gi-ound, encamped at 15,207 feet, witli sleet fallmg thickly. All the people (except tlie Carrels), along witli the animals, were then sent back to the farm. In course of time it was found that we had got close to the southei-n edge of a glacier on the eastern side of the peak, and that the upper 2200 feet or thereabouts of the mountain was composed of a large wall (which is possibly nothing more than a dyke), of no great thickness from east to west; having two principal ridges, — one descending from the summit towards the south -south -west, and the other north -nortli- east. The face fronting the east was almost entirely co\'ered liy glacier right up to the summit, and there was also a glacier, or more than one, on the western side. Jean-Antoine and I staited soon after daylireak on Fel). 9,^ and made good progress over the glacier so long as it was at a moderate inclination ; b\xt in the course of an hour we found ourselves driven over to the western side of the mountain, and shortl}- afterwards were completely stopped in that direction by immense sdracs. We then doubled back to the main ridge, and reached the crest of it, at a somewhat greater height than 10,000 feet, up some very steep gullies filled with snow. The huge semes looming through the mist above us on the western side shewed clean walls of ice which I estimated were 200 feet high, lurching forwards as if ready to fall, separated by crevasses not less than twenty to twenty-five feet aci'oss. Nothing could be done on that side. The ridge was steep and liroken; its rocks were much decomposed, externally of a chalky-white appearance, pervaded with veins and patches of lilacs and pui-plcs, and inter- ' Loavinj; Louis in charge of the camp. He came by liis own desire, tliougli still unable to walk. CHAP. VI. TUFTED SNOW-CORNICES. 133 spersed with numerous snow-beds overlianging one or the other side in cornices. Tlie tliickness of the mists hindered progress, and shortly before mid-day (being tiien about 17,000 feet above the sea) we wei'e brought to a halt. The clouds drifted away for a few niimites, and we saw that although we might ad\ance perhaps two hundred feet higher we shnuld not be able to reach the .sunnnit.^ Two glaciers have their origin on the upper part of the southern ridge of Illiniza. That which goes westwards, almost from its conniiencement, is prodigiously steep, and is broken up into the culiical masses termed simcs. The other glacier, de- scending towards the east, though steep, is less torrential. The two were united on the crest of our ridge, and over some cleft in it tliei'e was a sheer, vertical wall of glacier-ice perhaps a hundred feet high. We could see no way of turning it, and there appeared uo possiliility of getting higher upon this side except by tunnelling. But if we had passed this obstacle we should not have reached the top of the mountain, for its extreme sunnuit was garnished with a cornice of a novel and very embarrassing description. In the illustration at the head of this chapter two types of snow-cornices are represented. That on tlie i-ight of the engrav- ing is common upon the crests of ridges near the summits of many Alpuie peaks, and in other high ranges, including the Andes. The one upon the left I have seen only amongst the Great Andes of the Equator, and for the first time on the summit of Illiniza. We observed them again upon the lower peaks of Autisana, Cayambe, Cotocachi and elsewhere. The formation of snow -cornices of the more usual type is due to drift of the snow, and the icicles under- neatli them to the subsequent action of the sun; and the process of their manufacture, upon a small scale, can be observed upon the ridges of roofs during any severe snowstorm. The other type ' The toi) was seen only during tljese few minutes, and tlicu became invisilile until we left the mountaiu. 134 T1;AVELS amongst the great ANDEti. chap. vi. — the tufted cornice — is probably due to variability of winds, and the fringe of pendent icicles, all nmnd, to the influence of a nearly vertical sun at noon. "With the exception of Illiniza, they were not found at the very highest points of the mountains which have been mentioned, and we thanked our stars that it was not necessaiy to have dealings with them. We descended eighty feet to read the barometer; made our way down the eastern face, and became mist -bewildered on the glacier near the camp. Our shouts were heard by Louis, wlio pluckily hobl)led out some distance to guide us, and we then packed up, and awaited the return of our followers. They arrived at 4.30 p.m., and we quitted a mountain upon which, I do not attempt to disguise, we were fairly beaten.^ Our experiences upon L'orazon and Illiniza liegan to cipi'n (lur eyes regarding weather at great elevations in Ecuador. Hitherto we had seen little of vertical suns, and regarded (.mrselves as the victims of circumstances, and looked daily iVir the setting in of a period of cloudless skies, with something like tropical warmth. On Illiniza we enjoyed thunderstorms, snow and hailstorms, sleet, drizzle and drenching showers, and scarcely saw tlie sun at all." ' Started from the Iiaciemla on Fi'b. 8 at 9.35 a.m., and arrived at caiMp 1 ii.m. Left camp with Joau-Antoiue at 6.30 a.m. on Fell. 9, and in five minutes took to the glacier. Reached liighest point attained at 11.4.5, and got back to camp 3.45 p.m. Left camp 5 p.m., and arrived about 8.50 at the hacienda. Temperature in the shade was 36" Faht. at 5.45 a.m. at our camp, and 49 5 at mid-day, when 17,000 feet above the level of the sea. - The conditions upon Illiniza were unfavourable for collecting. Out of the snow sludge around our camp I obtained only three mosses {Kacomilriuni cris2>i- piluvi, Jaeg., Splachnohryum Spruceanum, CM., and a JVcbcra), and a short dis- tance below our highest point found two others {Brcutclia siibairuatii, Schimp. , and Didymodon aculifuliiis, Jaeg.). At 16,500 feet, whilst descending, I captured a small Img, which has been referred by Mr. Distant to the genus Eiiicsa {Siipp. App., p. 117). Tliough alive, it was evidently a wind-borne straggler, but it is noteworthy on account of this being the greatest elevation at which animal life was either olitained or observed. Its habitat was i]erhaps in the woods on the Panecillo of Corazon (see p. 117). EOrAniLITY OF THE IJ'EATHEH. 135 At Macliachi we iiict Scfidr Ldpez, an t'liyiiicrr of tlie Ecuaddviaii railway, who saiil that tliis weather was in no way exceptidiial, anil wiinld lie found alike over all the higher gronud, in any month. "We resigned ourselves to the inevitable, and set to woi'k perfecting jireparations for a journey to Cotopaxi. AN ACADEMICIAN OBSERVING THE BAROMETER. (after JUAN ANU ULLOA.) A BOI\]B FROM COTOPAXI. CHAPTER \n. THE ASCENT OF COTOPAXI, AND A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT. We started from IMacliachi for Cotopaxi on February 14. The party consisted of Jean-Antoine and Louis, JMr. Perring, six natives of Machachi as porters, nine mules and tlnee arriei'os, and a couple of sheep — a pair of ungraceful and graceless animals, wlio displayed the utmost reluctance to go to the slaughter. They squatted on their haunches and refused to move, and when at last, after infinite pei-suasion, they were induced to get up, tliey ran between our legs and tried to upset us. It was our intentirm tii tra\-el direct to Cotopaxi, but a violent storm drove us for refuge into Pedregal, a little liiunlot composed of a farm and a cluster of cottages, situated (in open ground, at the nortliern foot of Ruminahui. The hacienda was surrounded liy the customary higli wall, witli a huge portal at tlie entrance to the courtyaixl, and had a ruined chapel on the farther side, in which we took up our quarters, by invitation. At dusk the bells were tolled for prayer, and young and old, in twos and threes, came over the nuiorland to hold a ser^•ice of tlieir own, witliout the aid of piiest. In the morning of Feliruary 15 we pursued our way up tlie valley of the Eio Pita, over gently undulating land, which became CHAP. VII. THE ArVUiiM'H Til rnfiiPAXI. 1.37 luore and inuve sterile and dcsnlate as we approaclied the iiKuuit- ain, and presently entered nn the plain nf Linipinpnngn, the divide of the waters of the I'ita and Cntnchi — a nearly level expanse, several miles across. I tVaind here, in great numbers, a rather large beetle belonging to the same tribe as our cock- COTOPAXI, FROM Til chafer, of a species which proves to be new to science, and appears to Mr. H. W. Bates so different from known forms as to warrant the ereetiiin of a new genus {LcucopcUra) for its reception.^ L. albescens apparently tries to stand on its head. I saw mullitudes of them in tliis interesting jiosition ; many more fallen on their backs kicking abimt, unable to regain their feet; and many otliers ' For iloscriiitiuu ami figure see Supplementary AppemUx, \>. 30. T 138 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES chap. vir. lying dead upon their backs.^ Both upon the plain and some dis- tance lip the cone I found another nearly allied beetle {Platyccelia nigricmida), about an inch long, which also proves to lie a new sj)ecies ; ^ but the Colpodcs, that were so numerous at great heiglits upon the other Andes of the Equator, and the snouted Curculios, which were found in many places close up to the snow-liae, were entu'ely absent here.^ Dotted over the plain and its surroundings, perched on the tops of hillocks, or on slopes where they could not have been transported by water, as far as four or five miles from the crater, there were many rounded masses of scoriaceous la^'a, from a few inches up to five or six feet in diameter, having the appearance of bombs thrown out during eruptions.* The plain, however, was not cut up, and appeared to have almost entirely escaped ^■isita- tion liy the floods that careered down the cone in 1877. This, no doubt, was due to the Yanasache lava^ (the most prominent lava stream on this side) dividing the floods, and sending them away to the right and left. We steered for this lava, and, finding it too rugged for our nniles, passed round its base (13,455 feet), and came to a valley filled with drifted ash, upon its farther or southern side, leading directly towards the summit. Easy enough to man, it proved very laborious ground for our team, and at ■^ Tliough they were standing head downwards, closer inspection might liave shewn that they were emerging hindqnarters first from the sandy soil. Tliis beetle moved very sluggishly. - Supp. App., p. 30. * Eighteen species of the genus CoJpodcs were obtained on the journey between the heights of 13,000 and 15,800 feet, out of which sixteen species are new to science. These are described by Mr. H. W. Bates in the Siipjtkmcntary Api)eudLv, pp. 13-22. * Our natives scouted this idea, though familiar with the fact that Cotopaxi ejects myriads of fragments of smaller size, in such quantities as to turn day into night. The same incredulity was exhibited by the tambo-keeper at JIachachi, and the man at S. Aiia. They had never known anything more than two or three inches in diameter to be projected as far as their localities, and could not be "ot to believe that larger masses might fall closer to the mountain. '' I follow A'on Thiehnann in using this name. I did not hear it emjiloyed by the natives. CHAi'. VII. FIliST CAMP ON COTOl'AXL 130 3.50 p.m., oil aniving at a riule i'rainework of poles at the lieight of 15,130 feet, we deckled to camp, and sent all our animals back to IMachachi — presently learning that we had unexpectedly hit on the place where Vou Thielmaiiii liad stopped, liy discovering a bottle containing his record. It was not a very eligible locality, for two of the essentials of a good camping -place — wood and water — were wanting; and one half of my forces went upwards in search of snow, whilst the others descended two thousand feet in quest of scruh, lea^^Jlg me in charge of the camp, to act as cook, jouraalist, and cattle-tender. One of the sheep had already been killed, and some of the choicest cuts had been placed in our pots and kettles to be boiled, and I promised my people that when they returned they should have such a feed as would make up for daj's of semi -starvation. But when they wei-e gone I began to think that I had promised too much, for the fire would not liurii, and 1 had to lie flat on my stoinacli and blow hard to keep it alight at all. And then snow and hail began to fall, and 1 found my feet got uncomfortably cold while my head was exceedingly hut, and just at this time I heard a noise, and, looking up, perceived that the other sheep, which had not been turned into mutton, had escaped from its fastenings, -and was hurrying down the slope. I gave chase and caught it, and talked to it aliout the wickedness of attempting to escape. The sheep certainly looked sheepish, but it would not return upwards without much persuasion, and when we got up again I found that the sheep that had been turned into mutton had turned over into the volcanic ash, and bad nearly \)\\i out the tire. All the broth had descended among the ash, the fire was nearly extinguished, and the meat itself was covered in a most abominable way with a sort of gritty slime. Such nasty- looking stuff it has never been m\ lot to see, before or since; and I almost blush to think of tlie devices which had to be em- ployed to make it presentable. But all's well that ends well ! I came up to time, and my people were never the wiser, though 140 TI!AVEL>i AMONGST THE GIlEAT ANDES. chap. vii. I did clean that meat with our blaekiuy-hrush, aud wipe out the pots with a pocket-handkerchief. Our camp was pitched upon and was surrounded l)y matter ejected from the volcano, to which the terms dust, sand, lapilli, and ash are usually given. The finest particles are termed dusts, coarser ones are called sand and lapilli. The term ash covers all three expressions, and in this sense I have used it elsewhere. It is, however, open to the doul)le olijection that it conveys no exact idea of either the dimensions or quality of the particles, and suggests a quite erroneous idea. In using the term ash (or ashes) we generally mean the residue of something which has perished by fire. Thus we speak of the ash of paper, toliacco, or coal; and, when this expression was first applied to matter ejected by volcanoes, those who employed it were no douljt under the impression that the particles which they so designated were actually the residue of something which had been consumed l>y fire. This idea would be fostered by the matter very connnonly being of an ashy colour.^ Close investigation of the materials shews that there is scarcely anything (or nothing) of the natui'e of ash amongst them. They are composed of rocky and mineral frag- ments. The rocky ones are often angular chips of lava, while felspar constitutes a large proportion of the glassy ones. Frag- ments of scoria (scmii of la\'a) are common, and magnetic particles are always present in the Cotopaxi dusts. It is a I'ather trouljlesome peculiarity of volcanic dust that it will penetrate anywhere. The extreme fineness of tlie more ' A number of tlie volfaiiic dusts I collected in Ecuador liave this aiiiicavance when seen in bull: Some incline towards slatj'-grey, while others are of slightly warmer hues. Under very moderate magnifying power it is, however, seen that the particles are rather sharply divided into very light-coloured glassy fragments, and very dark rocky ones. The ashy colour is produced by the admi.xture of the two classes of atoms. Several of tliese Cotopaxi dusts have been examined microsco]iic- ally by Professor T. G. Uonney, F.R.S., and are described by him in the Pro- ceedings of the Boyal Society, June, 1884. Those who are desirous of jmisuiug this subject are referred to that paper. ciiAi'. VII. VOLrtANIC DUUrS. 141 miiuite i>artiL'k'.s permits it to get into places wliii-h might Lie deemed inaccessible. It Ihiats in the air, travels rnuiid corners, and insinuates itself through cracks into sheltered places which cannot be reached by objects i'alling directly fi'oin the heavens, and wiien settled in them it is secure against disturlianee l)y wind. Whatever tails upon open ground, on the contrary, is wafted hither and thither by the slightest breeze,^ and thus the traces ev'en of consideralile eruptions are speedily confused with previous ones." There was a good illustration of this in the im- mediate vicinity of our camp. In all the cavernous recesses of the scoria, and in other sheltered places, there was a thick deposit of a dust of a very marked granular character, in appear- ance, though not in constitution, quite unlike any other I obtained.-' This had evidently, from the thickness of the deposit, been ejected during a somewhat severe eruption, and must have fallen everywhere. Though found in every hollow or pi'otected place, it could not lie identified anywhere else. Yet this was a rather coarse dust, the predi)niinant particles weighing about two tlimisaud to a grain, and the largest ones measuring -04 of an inch ' Upon tliis account, travelling in the interior of Ecnador during ilry weather is often exceedingly unpleasant. It is sometimes impossiljle to face the clouds of dust which are raised. With myriads of sharp, glassy and rocky fragments con- stantly drifting aliout, it is not surprising that eye complaints are common amongst the natives. - This was the ease with the dusts which were ejected during the great eruptions of 1877. By general consent, they fell most heavily around Machachi; and, accord- ing to Antonio Racines, covered everything to a depth of more than two inches, and obliged the inhabitants to drive their animals elsewhere for food. At the time of our stay, he could not point tliem otit anywhere as a distinct stratum, as they Iiad been dispersed by wind, or turned over in the course of agriculture. ' "A dust consisting of dark granules, mixed with light grey and reddish specks. The materials are rather coarse, the granules ranging from about '01 to "015 inch. The most abundant are minute lapilli of scoriaceous aspect, and dark colour, almost black ; in less numbers are glassy whitish and reddish granules ; with these occur fragments of felspar, augite, and hypersthene. Of the latter mineral there was a fairly perfect crystal about '015 long. . . . The granular character of the dust readily distinguishes it from other examples." — Prof. T. G. Bonney. 142 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. vii. ill diameter. The atoms of the finer dusts may not be so much as a thousandth of an inch in diameter, or, as I shall relate in Chapter XVIII., weigli one twenty-five-thousandth part of a grain. The night of February 15-16 passed away without excite- ment. There were occasional rumblings in the bowels of the moimtain, and a few noises of a sharper sort, which sounded like slams of doors in an ordinary stone corridor. Snow fell for several hours, and in the morning the tent and packing-cases were laden with it, though it was rapidly disappearing on the cone. We found this usually happened.^ Several inches of snow fell every day, Itut it remained only a short tune, notwithstand- ing the temperature of the air, which was sometimes as low as 24° Faht. The warmth of the cone quickly liquefied it; the snow-water descended immediately into the porous soil, and the mountain steamed from head to foot. It is in this way the atmosphere of haze is produced to wliich I have abeady referred. Our first business in the morning was to improve the slielter for our people, and to sort them off— for there were too many mouths to feed. The whnlc of tlie Machachi men were told they might go home, or stop, as they pleased; and tliat those who stopped shoidd receive a silvered cross in addition to their pay.- " If I did not believe in that," said the oldest of the troop, Gregorio Albiija, " I would not have come here. 1 w ill stop with you " ; and, taking tlie cross, which I lield out, he pressed it reverently to his lips, and then passed it to his com- panions, who did the same. Two others agreed to stop, and the rest returned home. Those who remained we now proceeded to dress up in accord- ^ Snow fell on Cotojiaxi, in Feliiuary, quite 1000 feet lower tluin upon Chiui- borazo in January. ^ I took to Ecuador a luiuilier of gilt and silvered crosses, and made \ise of them as rewards for special services. Tlie worship of the cross was introduced into tliis country at the point of tlie sword, and has been developed by means of the whip. It is now firmly rooted there, amongst all classes. Even the Indians voluntarily make for themselves such rude crucifixes as that in the illustration upon p. 156. CHAP. VII. PREPARATIONS. 143 aiice witli mu- ideas dl" prujiriety, for tlie ordinary native dress is as unsuited to mountaineering as can wrll lie. It commences with a straw hat that generally lilows away, and terminates with alpargatas (string shoes), whicli, althougli sufficient when marcliing along dusty roads, inadequately protect the feet when tramping AN ALPAUGATA. over snow ;iiid rock. Having rigged tliem out in some of our surplus stores, I despatched them upwards under the direction of Jean-Antoine with a tent, and a quantity of rope, pi'ovisions, and etceteras, and they had a constant struggle with the elements. Both of the Ecuadcjrians broke down after a time, and the heavy part of the work, as usual, was performed by the Carrels. The weather was the woist. During most of the day it hailed or snowed, and in the rest there was fog or high wind, accompanied by much thunder and lightning. The weather on February I7th strongly resembled that of the day before. At daylireak tlie temperature was 28' Falit., and in the previous night it bad been three degrees lower. But upon this day we heard no noises proceeding fiom tlie interior of the cone, although they had been frequent during the IGth. At 7 a.m. the summit was visiljle for a few minutes, and was seen to be emitting vast clouds of steam continuously, which 144 TUAVELH AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. yii. rolled up over the edge of the crater, and drifted away towards the north. Storms of hail were frequent ; and both here, and when we were subsequently encamped at the summit, stray flashes of lightning occun-ed in uncomfortable if not in dangerous proximity — -blazing out at unexpected times, and conveying the impression that the atmosphere was saturated with electricity. AMien it was possiljle to work outside the tent we exjihired the neighbourhood, but our acquisitions here were less than upcm any other mountain that we visited. The beetles already men- tioned, and an uliiquitous frog {Phryniscus Iccvis, Gthr.) were the only things we saw appertaining to the animal kingdom. Eound about and below our camp there were lichens upon the lava Ite- longing to the genera Stcrcocati- lon and Lccanora, and between 14,000 and 1.5,000 feet there was some quantity of a Valerian ( V. Bonplandiana, Wedd.), a few stray plants of Gentian in flower {G.foliosa, H.P>.K.),and two Com- posites {Culcitiam ninde ? and Senecio liumillimus, Sz. r>ip.). LH^X- CAMP ON COTOPAXl (15,139 FEEt). CHAP. MI. STAirr FOR THE SUMMIT. 145 AliDve the vd\n\i I IVumd nuthiug, either aiiiinal ur vegetable, except some shal)liy patches of moss (at 15,350 feet), which has been dubinusly itleiitified as Wchcra nutans, Sehimp. Everything besides growing in asli was covered witli it, and presented a very dirty and unhappy appearance. The preparations for a start to the snnnnit were now com- pleted. The tent below was left standing, well -provisioned, in case we had to make a precipitate retreat ; and there was food enough near the top of the mountain for several days, should we be kept prisonei-s there. The morning of February 18 was unusually fine, and the upper pait of the cone was free from clouds for several hours. I started oft' Jean-Antoine Cai'rel with two natives at 5.20 a.m., and followed with Louis at six, catch- ing the others when they were about 17,000 feet above the sea. "We had fine views of Sincholagua (16,3G5 feet), Antisana (19,335), and Cayambe (19,186), and spent time in examining these mountains with a telescope, with a view to ascending theni.^ Antisana bore N.E. by E., distant about 28 miles, and there was in its rear, and rising higher than it, a large pile of cumulus cloud, which I estimate cannot have been less than 23,000 feet above the level of the sea. This is the greatest elevation at which I have seen this description of cloud anywhere. The ascent to Cotopaxi, by the i-oute we followed, was a walk ; anil the direction that we took is best indicated by saying that we kept along the crest of the rather ill -defined ridge- which descends almost, continuously from the summit towards the mountain raimifialnii.'' Xo clinil>ing whatever was necessary. The • Later ou we ascuinled all three iiKPinitain.s. They were distant 12, 28, and 62 miles respectively. - This ridge is the Vanasaelie lava. It ajiiJcars to issue from a fissure in the cone between 18,000 and 19,000 feet above the sea. It was completely buried in snow at that height. ^ The route we followed is seen in the view U]ion p. 1-3", taken from the lower camp. The view upon p. 144 was taken with the back to the sumunt of Coto- pa.\i, looking toward.s Kumiiiahui. U 146 TRAVELS AMOXOST THE GREAT AMiES. chap. vii. lower camp was distant about SGOO feet from the nearest part of tlie crater, and in this distance we rose 4500 feet. Isolated snow- patches commenced at about 15,400 feet, and a Httle higher we were able to follow snow uninterruptedly right up to tlie slope upon which I proposed to encamp. In order to ensure regularity in the march, we tied up in line, a proceeding tliat our natives did not at all comprehend, and they wondered still more at tlie use of the axe in cutting steps in the snow, to focilitate progress. The most interesting feature I noticed upon this section of the mountain was the existence of glaciers upon the upper part of the cone. They occui'red on each side of us, and in some places extended to witliin 500 feet of the top; l>ut, through being mnch covered Ijy asli, it was not possible to say exactly where they commenced or terminated, and for the same reason they were quite unrecognisable at a distance. At 11 a.m. we arrived at the foot of the great slope of asli upon the western side of the summit, which leads riglit wp to the edge of the crater, and we found tliis was the steepest and most labori(.)us part of the ascent. I estimate it to be 750 feet high, and 1100 feet long. It was composed of the materials wliieh are being daily, even hourly ejected^ (mainly of particles weighing about 500 to a grain, with an admixture of angular fragments of laAa. up to a (juarter of an inch in diameter), and it was piled u}) nearly t" tlie maximum angle at wliich it would stand. I know experhaentally that its materials will stand at ' The eruptions of Cotopaxi yield iiiformatioii respecting the pre\'ailing winds of this region, and shew clearly that they by no means blow luiifornily from the msl, as some suppose. The slope of ash at the top of Cotopaxi, upon its western side, proves, however, the preponderance of easterly winds at that particular spot and elevation ; and from the whole of my experiences in Ecuador I should say that iu the interior generally, near the earth (at heights from 9000 to 10,000 feet) easterly winds predominate, and that north-westerly ones are as rai"e as in Great Britain. But winds blowing from the true east were almost erpially scarce, though north-easterly and south-easterly ones were frerpient. From greater eleva- tions (say 20,000-40,000 feet above the sea) there was aljundant evidence of the occurrence of poworful nnrlhcrly and southerly winds, as well as easterly ones. CHAP. VII. SECOND CAMP n,X rjOTOPAXL 147 41 , but tlie face of the slope was not, I think, steeper tlian 37°.^ We deposited our Ijaggage at the foot of it until we had completed the ascent, and found that occasional streaks of ice gave some staljility to the mass, which would otherwise ha\'e slipped down in large <|uantities at every step. We hurried up this unstaljle slope as fast as we could go, and reached the western edge of the summit rim exactly at uud-day. The crater was nearly filled with smoke and steam, which drifted about and obscured the view. The opposite side could scarcely be perceived, and the l)ottrim was quite concealed. As the vaymurs were wafted hither and thither, we gained a pi'etty good idea of the general shape of the crater, thongli as a whole it was not seen until night-time. A few minutes after our arrival, a roar from the liottom told us that the " animal " (Carrel's term f[;i-I,;^y;],^ PART OF THE EXTERIOR OF THE CRATER OF COTOPAXl, CHAP. VII. THE CI! A TEH BY NIGHT. 151 iipwanls, pivjiaivd tor sdUR'tliiug dmmatie', t'ur a strong glow on the uiuler sides of the steam-clouds shewed that tliere was fire helow. Crawling and grovelling as the lip was approached, I hent eagerly forward to peer into the unknown, with Carrel heliind, gripping my legs. The vapours no longer roncealed any part of the ^"ast ci'ater, though they were thei'e, drift- in tj ahout, as before. 152 TRAVELS AM UNCI ST THE Gil EAT ANDES. "We saw an ainpliitlieatre 2300 i'eet in diameter IVum n(]itli to south, and 1650 feet across from east to west/ with a rugged and irregular crest, notched and cracked ; surrounded by cliffs, by perjiendicular and even overlianging precipices, mixed witli steep slopes — some bearing snow, and otliers apparently encrusted with sulphur. Cavernous recesses Ijelehed i'urtli smoke ; tlie sides of B cracks and chasms no more than lialf-way dnwn slmnc with ruddy light ; and so it continued on all sides, liglit down to the bottom, precipice alternating witli slope, and tlie fiery fissures becoming moi'e numerous as the l)otti>ni was approached. At tlie liottom, pnibalily twelve hundretl i'eet belnw us, and tnwavds the centre, there was a rudely circular spot, about one-tenth (if the diameter of the crater, the pipe of the volcano, its channel ' Tlio aceoiinmiiying plan is maJo from mcasureiucnts wliicli were taken on the following morning. From A to B (600 feet) was measured by a line. Z repre- sents tlie mouth of the ]ii]ie at the bottom of the crater. C was tlic lowest point in the lip or rim, and A, D, E, were the highest ones. cit.\r. VII. A GREAT SAFETY-VALVE. 153 of ciimiiuniication with Idwei- regions, filled with iiieamlescent if iKjt luolteu lava, glowing and Imrning; with ilanies travelluig to and fro over its surfsice, and scintillations scattering as from a wood -fire; lighted hj tongues of flickering flame which issued from the cracks in the surrounding slopes. At intervals of aljont half an hour the \-olcano regularly hlew off steam. It rose in jets with great violence from the lM.)ttoni of the crater, and boiled over the lip, continually envelop- ing us. The noise on these occasions resembled that which we hear when a large ocean steamer is blowing off steam. It iippeai'ed to be pure, and we saw nothing thrown out, yet in the morning the tent was almost filack with matter which liad been ejected. These intermittent and violent escapes of (com- paratively) small ([uantities of steam proceeded with considerable regularity during our stay on the smumit, but I cannot suppose they are continually happening. They can scarcely have occ\irred when we saw the clouds of steam cpiietly simmering out of the crater from the Hacienda Eosario (see p. 123), or from our camp upon Fel). 17, and upon numerous other occasions. ]My prede- cessors on Cotopaxi do not speak of them. They were evidently of the same nature, though nnich inferior in force to those which we had seen emitted from Sangai a few weeks [)reviously. I do not feel able to frame an explanation wliich would account for these outbursts if it is assumed that fluid, molten la\'a filled the pipe. I conjecture that the lava in the pipe leading from the bottom of the crater, although intensely hot, was CI Idling and settUng down, closhig fissures and imprisoning steam that desired to escape, which presently accpiired sufficient force to burst through the barriers and effect temporary relief. I unagine that the settling and closing-np process recommenced after each outburst, Tuitil some unusually violent explosion estab- lished what may lie termed a free vent. The steam then welled out miimpeded, in the manner we so frequently observed. After such occasions, the internal pressure being diminished, I presume X 154 TUAJ-ELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chai-. vii. lliiiL Lhu closiiig-up process went on with greater activity, and tliat tlie vent was sometimes entirely closed, causing the volcano to appear unusually trampiil. Steam uncpiestic.malily plays a leading part in the operations of Cotopaxi, and sometimes the ijuantity that issues is enormous. One morning in tire following April, when encamped, at the height of 14,760 feet, on Cayambe, at a distance of aliout sixty miles to the north -north -east, just after dayl)reak, we saw Coto- paxi pouiing out a prodigious volume of steam, which Ijoiled up a few hundred feet aliove the rim of its crater, and then, lieing caught Ijy a south-westerly wind, was borne towards tlie nurth- east, almost up to Cayamlje. The bottom of this cloud was about 5000 feet above us ; it rose at least a mile high, and spread over a width of several miles; and, as it was travelling a little to tire east of us, we had a pei'fect and unimpeded ^•iew of it. I estimate that on this occasion we saw a continuous body of not less than sixty cubic miles of cloiul fonued from steam. If this vast volume, instead of issuing from a free vent, had lound its passage barred, itself imprisoned, Cotopaxi on tliat morning might have been elfaced, and the whole continent might have (piivered under an explosion rivalling or surpassing the mighty catastrophe at Krakatoa. "We were up again Ijefore daylight on tlie 19th, and then measured 600 feet on the western side of the crater, and took angles to gain an idea of its dimensions. I photographed it,' and made final observations of the mercurial barometer to deter- mine its altitude. From tlie mean of tlie whole, its summit appears to be 19,613 feet above the sea. In 1872-3, Messrs. Reiss and Stiibel (by angles taken from ^'aiious barometrically measured bases) made its height 19,498 feet; and, by the same method. La Condamine, in the early part of last century, I'onnd that its licight was 18,865 feet. As there is not much pmlia- ' The engraving faeing p. 147 has been made from this pliotogiaph. The whole of the interior of the crater was surrounded by eliffs and slopes of the same character. CHAP. VII. SOME MORE "TREASURES"! 155 bility of coiisideniljle error in any of the determinations, it \V(]nl(l seem that Cotopaxi has materially increased its elevation in tlie course of tlie last century and a half. The time to descend liad now arrived, and at 11.30 a.m. our Ecuadorians slionld liave renwuiited to assist in carrying our bagcrage down again. The weatlier, however, was abominable, and they preferred to leave the work to us. After depositing our more bulky stores at the foot of the great slope of ash, we tramped dnwn to the first camp. The feet of Louis were still in a very tender state, and he could not take part in racing ; but Jean-Antoine and I went d(.nvn as hard as we could, and descended tlie 4300 feet in 110 minutes. Two days more elapsed before animals could be brouglit from Machachi for the retreat, and it was late on the 21st before we got clear of Cotopaxi. The night was dark, and the path invisilile ; but guided by the l)ells we gained the hamlet, and encamped once more in the chapel of Pedregal. The rest of my IMachaclii men now returned home, and the authorities lost no time in interviewing them, for these poor n(jodles were possessed with tlie idea that we were in search of gold. " Tell us, what did they do ? " Said my men, " The Doctor, dressed like a king, went fi'om one place to another, looking abdut; but after a time Sefior Juan and Senor Luis seemed afraid nf liim, fur they tied him up with a rope." "Enough of this; tell us, did they find treasure?" "We think tliey did. They went down cm tlieir hands and knees searching for it, and they wrapped what tliey took in paper and brought it away." " Was it gold ? " " We do not know, but it was very heavy." This, though true, was rather misleading. The "royal" attire which so impressed tliem consisted nf the Ulster coat and dress- ing-gown underneatli, crowned by the Dundee whaling-cap; and the " treasures " we carried away were samples of the jagged crest and dt'liris of tlie terminal slope. 156 TRAVELH AMdNOHT THE (WE AT ANDEK. Cdtopaxi sliews no signs of approaeliing duerepitude, and i'ur many contiuies yet to come it may remain the highest active volcano ill the world; or ])ercliance the iniprisimed forces may find an easier outlet, through liarriers ottering less resistance, and either Sangai, Tungiiragua, or Pichincha may become the premier volcano of the Equator. Whilst the great cone which has so often trenilil(Ml with subterranean thunders — Ijuried be- neath glaciers more extensive than those of Cayandie or Anti- saiia — will echo with the crash of the ice - avalanche ; its crater will disappear, and, over its rugged floor and its extinguished fires, soft snowflakes will rear a majestic dome lf)ftier than Cliimliorazo. INDIAN CRUCIFIX. M'-^^Z^ THE DELLS OF PEDREGAL. CHAPTER A'lII. THE FIRST ASCENT OF SINCHOLAGUA. DuiaxG (iiir stay at the suiiiinit of Cotopaxi, we had remained coiitinuiiusly i'(ir twenly-six hours at a. lower pressure than liad heeii ex])erieueed during any twenty-six consecutive hours on (Jhinihorazo/ without having a recurrence of what I have ven- tured to term tlie aciifc symptoms of mountain-sickness ; and this was satisfactory, as it indicated that we hail become somewhat haliituated to low pressures. It is material to observe that, altliough we were actively employed duiiug much of the time, tile woik in which we were engaged did not tax our strength. It is by no means certain, if larger demands hail liecn made ujiun it, that our condition woidd have remained erpiall}" sound. The ascent of Cotopaxi, however, was considered severely scien- tific l)y my men. Prolonged residences in exalted situations were ' The highest reading of tlie iiiprcurial barometer (rediieed to 32° Faht. ) at our eanii) (135 feet below the summit of Cotopaxi) was 14 -808 inclies, and tlie lowest was 14-761 inches. This (19,500 feet) was the most elevated position at which we encamped on tlie jonrne_v. 158 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. viii. little to their taste. They pined for work iiioi'e in haiiuoiiy with the old traditions ; for something with dash and go, — the sallying forth in the dead of the night with rope and axe, to slay a giant ; returning at dusk, with shouts and rejoicing, hringmg its head in a haversack. I sacrificed a day to meet their wishes, and told them to select a peak, just as one may give a sugar-plum to a fractious child to keep it quiet. Giants were scarce in the neighbourhood of Pedregal. My men looked upon Pasochoa with a sort of contempt, and at raimiuahui with disfavour, as there were at least half-a-dozen ways up it ; and their choice fell upon Sincliolagua, an attenuated peak, appetizing to persons with a taste for Aiguilles, that had stared us in the fixce when we looked out of the window at IMach- achi,^ which mifjht be ascended in one way, and in one only. It may be described as forming a northern extension of the massif of Cotopaxi, and it stands to that mountain in much the same relation as Carihuairazo to Chimborazo. In a section of Ecuador in this latitude, the ground (proceeding from west to east) falls continuously from the summit of Corazon - to the bed of the Eio Grande ; then ascends, to cross a ridge con- necting Pasochoa with Euminahui, and descends, gently, through ■ Its height according to Messrs. Reiss anrl Stiibel is 16,365 feet (4988 metres), and La Condaniine 16,435 feet (2570 toiscs). It is jirolialiiy tlie tenth in rank of the Great Andes of tlie Equator. - I am unable to say anything aljout tlie country on the Pacific side of Corazon. We did not see it, and it is possible that for some distance to the west of this mountain it has never been seen by any one. No reliance can be placed upon that part of the Maldonado map. Amongst the curious mistakes of detail in this maj> may be mentioned the insertion of the name of Rumiiiahui (Ruminaui) over the position actually occupied liy Pasochoa, and the entire omission of the former mountain. On this map, nothing is made to intervene lietween Corazon and Cotopaxi. In La Condamine's map, Rumifiahui occupies its proper ]iosition, — Pasochoa, however, is omitted. Ruminahui (15,607 R. & S.) is a large and prominent mountain, though not one of the gi-eatcst of the Andes of tlic Eipiator. From north to south it extends over about twelve miles, and it tills the space between the eastern (right) hank of the Rio Grande, and our track from Pedregal to Cotopaxi. ciiAi'. \ni. THE mo PITA. 159 l'rilif,uiil to the bed uf llie liio Pita (alxiut ll.oOO feet). Sinclio- la;4ua rises on the eastern side of this river, and iornis the cul- minating point of a long ridge running northwards from Cotopaxi, whieli dies out in the basin of Chillo, and in a manner may be said to extend to the east and north-east until it meets the western slopes of Antisana.^ As Sineliolagua promised to give full occupation for a day, it was arranged to ride as far as animals could be used; and we should have started before sunrise, only, when the right time came our nmles were nowhere, or, speaking more correctly, they were everywhere, as the anieros after carefully driving them into a yard where there was nothing to eat had left the entrance to it unclosed, and the animals very sensibly wandered out on the niiKirland, where they C(juld browse. We sallied forth on Feb. 23, at 7 a.m., and after returning a few miles over the Cotopaxi track turned sharply towards the east, directly towards our moimtain ; crossed the tiny Eio Pedregal and some moorish ground, and at 8.15 forded the Itio I'ita." The I'avages of the great flood which descended from Cotopaxi on June 26, 1877, were fresh at that time, and it was clear that when it was at its highest this stream must have been about 1100 feet wide, and not less than fifty feet deep.^ AVhen we crossed this IVirmidaljle river it had shrunk to a width of about two lumdrL^d feet, and was no more than tliree feet in depth. Sineliolagua rose aljruptly on its right bank. Tlie Cari'els went In tlie frunt, and in a few minutes Louis liccanie end:)Ogged ' Tliioe weeks later, from tlie Haeieuda of Antisanilla, I .saw that the country between Antisaua and Sineliolagua might almost be termed table -land ; having undulations, but no salient jieaks, and an extreme elevation of 12-13,000 feet. - I did not observe the height of this point. It was judlialjlv about the same as that of the Hacienda of Pedregal (11,629 feet). •' From the note at p. 126, it will be seen that the Hood travelled the whole distance from Cotopaxi to Esmcraldas at about the rate of seventeen miles per hour. Owing to the steepness of the fiill, the rate was no doubt mucli greater during the earlier part of its course, when it descended into the liasin of Chillo, and erased the factories of the Aguirre family. 160 rilAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. vm. ill some alliuiiig luiil dceriti'iil gvuiiiid. In this euuiitiy (and it may perhaps he said of the slopes of inoiintains in general) any spot that is especially verdant is sure to he swampy. In Ecuador, this is no douht an indication that the earth in the inmiediate neighbourhood of such spots is 7wt fissured ; water is unable to drain away, and the soil becomes saturated.^ After all hands had extricated Louis and his beast from the morass, Cevallos (our princij)al an-iero) took the lead. He was a capital horseman, and, unlike the majority of his class, had no objections to his animals gc)ing to gi'eat heights. AVe pushed on hard, and in two hours and a quarter rose three thousand feet, — half-way up coming suddenly upon three deer, gambolling about. These lower slopes, though steep, wei'e easy to ride over, and up to 14,000 feet and higher were rather luxuriantly covered with grasses. At about the height of 14,800 feet our animals could go no farther, and were left in charge of Cevallos. This spot was just above the clouds which are underneath the summit in the engraving on the opposite page. All the grass land was below, and we were confronted with crags, precipitous enough for any one, ci-owned by fields of snow and ice, the liiithplace of a fine hanging -glacier which crej)t down almost perpendicular cliffs, ' The scarcity of lills and streams 112)011 most of tlie Great Amies of the Ecjiiator was continually rcmarketl, and we frequently liad trouble in obtaiuiug a supiily of water. It seems not improl)abIe that tlie surface drainage inliltrates to great depths, and supplies nnich of the steam that escapes from the active volcanoes. Little of it reappears 011 the surface in springs. The only warm sjiring of any size that I saw in the interior was near Macliachi, about fifty yards from the west (left) liank of the Rio Grande, and about fifteen feet above tliat river. It bubbled up frei'l)- in a considerable volume in a pool, twelve by ten feet across, with a quantity of gas escaping. The temperature of this spring at mid-day was 69° Faht., and of the air 65°'25. It was suid that in the early morning the temperature of the water was hiijkcr. It was scarcely necessary to investigate the accuracy of this statement. The air temperature in the morning was generally below 55° Faht. ; and, if the warmth of the spring remained constant, the contrast between tlie two temiieratures would lie greater then than at mid-day. People come both to drink at and to bathe in this pool. Its taste was compared to Vichy water. cHAi". virr. SINGHOLAOUA. 161 rlasping the rocks with its fiiigcis and anus. We tied up, and steered luirtli-east liver some rugged ground. Tlie manner ipproaeli had been settled before- >^ hand. The south side of Sineholagua was inaecessible ; garnished witli pin- a*?^^*^ SINCHOLAGUA, FRO.M NEAR PEDREGAL. Y 162 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. viii. nacles like the teeth of ;i saw, and terminated at tlie imiuediate .suimuit liy sheer precipice. Tlic western side was C(pially un- assailable, and the only way by wliich the top might be reached was from the north, along the snow arcfc at the crest of the monntain. In two honrs we rose more than another thousand feet, and (having turned sharply to the right and climbed the sndw »n the left of the engra\ing) passed under the cliffs of the minor (nortliern) peak. We were neai'ly sixteen thousand feet high, with a clear sky, and the summit not far off; men in good spirits, rather inclined to crow, and to vaunt the superiority of the old style, when — Heaven knows where it came from — a hailstorm sent us flying for protection to the cliffs, crouching in their fissures, coveiing our faces with our hands to save them fi'om the half-inch stones which bounded and ricochetted in all directions, and smote the rocks with such fury that they dislodged or actually broke fragments from the higher ledges. Twice we left our refuge and were beaten l)ack. These ice-balls were as unpleasant as a shower of liullets. Then came a lull. Snow began to fall, at first mixed w^ith the hail, and afterwards in large flakes, thickly. The hail ceased, and was succeeded by lightnuig. Emerging from our retreat, we traversed the glacier to a small island in its midst,^ and stormed the slope banked -up against the wall which forms the summit ridge, and found the drifted snow along its crest surmounted a sheer precipice on the eastern side. The narrow way along the top led tn the foot of the final peak. The route could not be mistaken, though the sunnnit was in\isible and our arek\ rising at an increasing angle, disappeared in the thunder- clouds. Hitherto the flashes had imly glaiiced oceasinnally through ' Tills was the fiftli iiinnntaiii in the lu'iylibourliooil of the E[|iiator ujioii whicli we had ahcady fouud glacieis. The others were Chimhorazo, Carilmairazo, Illiuiza and Cotopaxi. CIIAP. \III. AT THE SUMMIT OF SIXCHOLAGUA. 163 tlii< iinuky air, each f(ill(i\ve\ to the Capital, and we re- turned to Macliaclii to make tlie necessary jireparations. When the time came for de- parture, (piite a little crowd assembled. We had entered the place strangers, our ways appeared odd to the natives, and we could not converse with freedom. But in course of time a good understanding had ai-isen. The language of kindness is under- stood everywhere. They had lieen use- ful til us, and we had nut lii'en un- mindful (if them ; and niiw, when al.iout to leave, all our young friends (with the little girl in lilue), David and his wife, Gre- gorio, Lorenzo, the poncho-maker, and many others came together to say good-bye; while Antonio Bacines, arrayed in his best, accompanied us several miles on the road, and took leave with many good wishes and profound salutations. AT PEDREGAL. 166 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. viii. On crossing the Tambillo lidge (10,090 feet) Quito made its appearance, looking very insignitieaut at the foot of I'ichincha. Upon entering the city we went at once to the Hotel Giacometti, where rooms had been already secured by the good offices of the British Minister, Sir. F. Douolas Hamilton. ; •> I rrs-T ENTRAN'CE TO THE HACIENDA, F'EDREGAL. Road to iJu-Norlh Rua.i to Tuinixic REFERENCES I, GOVERNMENT OFFICES 2, GRAND PLAZA 3 ARCMIEPISCOPAL PALACE «. THE CATHEDRAL 5. THE JESUITS CHURCH 6. OlACOMETTIS HOTEL 7 RESIDENCE OF THE CHILIAN MINISTER a RESIDENCE OF THE BRITISH MINISTER 9 PLAZA- 10 CHURCH OF S. ROQUE II DO. S MARCOS 12 DO S BLAS 13 DO. S SEBASTIAN 14, DO. STA BARBARA IS. DO S. JUAN 16 DO. DE LA RECOLLECCION DE LA MERCED 17. DO. S. DIEGO 18 POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL. 19 THE OBSERVATORY 20 PUBLIC GARDEN 21 ESTABLISHMENT OF THE JESUITS 22 SCHOOL OF THE CHRISTIAN BRETHREN 23. PLAZA, 21 BRIDGE & ROAD TO MACHACHI & THE SOUTH 25. ROAD TO THE NORTH 26 SCHOOLS. 27 ROAD TO TUMBACO. PIFO, & PAPALLACTA 28, CHURCH & CONVENT OF S. FRANCISCO 29 DO DO LA MERCED 30, 00, DO S. AUGUSTIN. 31. DO DO S. DOMINGO 32, CHURCH OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION S3. 00. DEL CARMEN ANTIGUO 34. DO. DEL CARMEN MODERNO 35. DO. OF STA. CLARA 36. DO, DO CATARINA 37 HOSPITAL CHURCH 38 HOSPITAL 39. HOSPICE. 40. CHAPEL OF JERUSALEM 41 QUEBRADA UNDER QUITO 42. OPEN SPACE 43 CONVENT Q UITO FROM A PLAN BY J B MENTEN 1875 Sctdu ol' Eiigiisli Feet , 1 1-1^^ '^t^ ..'»V 4^=^ f^ #^^ *c ^. c--^. 1 -^5$> To Lhia. & J'ichintrhu tiCUADt'IilENNE EAKKING.S. CHAPTER IX. ON QUITO AND THE QUITONIANS. The Capital of the Eepublic of the Equator is situated at the Ijottom of tlie eastern slopes of Pichincha, close to where they abut against the Puengasi ridge ; and lietween these two mount- ains the drainage of the area which may properly be termed the hasin of Quito escapes, through a cleft, on to the Plain of Tiimbaco. This basin extends from the city to the Tambillo lidge, and is bounded on the west by Atacatzo and part of Pichincha, and on the east by Puengasi. Previous writers have spoken of the valley of Quito ; and (ignoring the natural lines of drainage which have been enumerated ') have even applied that term to tlie whole of the interior endiraced Ijetween Eiobamlja and the Plain of Tum- baco. The only area to which this designation can properly be given is that which is indicated above ; and even this, it seems to me, is moi'e aptly called the hasiu of Quito. The pojiulation of the city is connnonly said to range from 60,000 to 80,000 ; but, from comparison of the spaces known to be covered by towns whose population has been ascertained, I 1 See pp. S6, 9", ami 105. REFER I GOVERNM 2, GRANJ 3. ARCHIEPISC 4. THE 0/ 5. THE JESU 6. GIACOME" 7 RESIDENCE OF TH 8. RESIDENCE OF tM 9. PL 10. CHURCH C II. DO. Sk 12 DO. 13. DO. S. ' 14. DO. ST, 15. DO. IS DO. DE LA RECOLU^ 17. DO. I 18 POLYTECH 19. THE OBijj^ 20. PUBLIC ~ 21. ESTABLISHMENT 22. SCHOOL OF THE t= 23. Pi* I !4. BRIDGE & ROAD TO T 25. ROAD TO 26. scr ^?^;r 27 ROAD TO TUMBACO, 28. CHURCH & CONVEl ' 29. DO. DO. 30. DO. DO-tr,===i.Caa 31 DO. DO. 7 32 CHURCH OF THE IMI 33. DO. DEL C. 34. DO. DEL CA|, 35. DO. OF r 36. DO. DO. ^ 37 HOSPIT- 38, HOS.tyJ*- ECUAUUKIENNE EAKKIKGS. CHAPTER IX. ON QUITO AND THE QUITONIANS. The Capital of the Uepulilic (if the Equator is situated at the buttoni of the eastern slopes of Pichineha, close to where they abut against the Puengasi ridge ; and lietween these two mount- ains the drainage of the area which may pi'operly be termed the hasm of Quito escapes, through a cleft, on to the Plain of Tumbaco. This basin extends from the city to the Tanibillo lidge, and is bounded on the west by Atacatzo and part of Pichineha, and on the east by Puengasi. Previous writers have spoken of the valley of Quito ; and (ignoring the natural lines of drainage which have lieen enumerated ^) have even applied that term to the whole of tlie interior endtraced between Riobandja and the Plain of Tum- baco. The only area to which this designation can properly be given is that which is indicated above ; and even this, it seems to me, is more aptly called the iasiti of Quito. The population of the city is connnonly said to range from G0,000 to 80,000 ; liut, from comparison of the spaces known to be covered by towns whose population has been ascertained, I 1 See 1.11. S6, 97, and 105. 168 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GBEAT ANDES. chap. ix. feel coiiHdeut tliat the imialjer of its inhabitants is i'ar lieneath the lower of tliese estimates.^ The coinpaet jiait of Quito does not cover a square mile ; and, I think, at the most, the city proper cannot contain more than 30,000 pei-sons. The total may, per- haps, amount to 34,000 or 35,000 if the sulnirbs which extend along the roads going north and south are included. The nortliern is some hundreds of feet higlier than the southern end of Quito." Several ancient quchradas run through the heart of the city ; and, as the whole of the ground upon which it stands is sloping, there is a natural drainage into these fissures. This fact, and the daily occurrence of sharp showers which cleanse the place, doubtless account for its freedom from bad smells, and immunity fi'om pestilence. It had no proper supply of water. The populace depended upon tlie public fountains and their sur- rounding bashis in the Plazas, which were contaminated with abominations. Very particular persons had two pennywoiths of water l)i'(;iuglit every morning, sevei'al miles, in large pots ; ' but, judging from the limited number of water-carriers, the fastidious class formed a select minority of the population. Tliere was one old water-carrier, with wliite hair and a pink face, who was a well-kniiwn figure in Quito. I ottered to take his portrait, and tiild liim tliat lie shuuld have a sliilliiig if lie stimd ipiite still and only fourpeiice if lie moved. " Sehor," said tlie did felluw, " thougli several gentlemen have proposed to do the same, you are tlie first who has suggested any remuneration." ' Dr. W. Jameson says (Journal of Royal Ocog. Soc, 1861, p. 185) : "On several occasions the Government lias been desirous of ascertaining the actual number of iu- haliitants, but without arriving at a satisfactory result. The people became alarmed, fniui an idea that the formation of a census is a preliminary step towards the im- position of a tax." Ml'. Church (in Report to Mr. Bhiiiie, dated 1883) says tlie same. - Tlie accompanying Plan is after one made by Father J. B. Meiiten, S.J. , who was Director of the Observatoiy iu 18S0. Corrections and additions have been introduced into it. The names of the streets have been changed since the original was made, and it would be useless to give them. ^ A medio (equal to twopence) was the regular charge for a jar like tliat liorue by the water-carrier I have engraved. THE PAXECILLO OF QUITO. 169 Tlie lii'yt near view of the city is obtained IVnm the top of a reiiulai'lv fonueil Panecillo, which is just witliin the rano-o of tlie riaii/ ami from the same spot there is an athnirable panorama of the Gi'eat Andes in the immediate neighbourhood of the Equator. Looliing north, first comes Cotocachi (16,301), a rather sharp peak, THE OLD WATER-CARRIER. of pyramidal form, referred to in a later chapter ; next, turning eastwards, there is Mojanda (14,083 E. & S.), which perhaps covers a greater space than any other mountain in Ecuador ; then C'ay- ambe (19,186), a grand, snow-clad extinct volcano lying just north ' Tlic ranecillo is a reoogiiizefl playgroiuid for the cliililrcii of (^liiito. It was covered with grass and patclies of dwarf slirubs. At the suiiiinit tliero was a quantity of moss of tlie genus Macromilrium, and abundance of tlie lichens Physcia chrysophthalma, DC, and P. flavicans, DC. Amongst tliis vegetation I collected about thirty species of spiders, beetles, etc., including those which ai'c enumerated in the Supplementary Appendix, Preface, j). ix. 170 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. ix. of the Equator ; followed Ijy Sincliolagua, Cotopaxi, Pasochoa, Ihiiiiinahui, the three liills of Chaupi on the Tiupullo ridge, Cor- azoii, Atacatzo, and Pichincha.' The majority of the dwellings in the city have only a grouud- tloor with one story above, and the streets mostly have a tame appearance fmni the small height of the houses and want of objects breaking the sky-line. Any one looking d(jwn upon these five hundred acres of flat, featureless roofs will appreciate the artistic value of chimney-pots. Quito has neither chimneys nor fireplaces. Its tempei'ature is supposed to be sufficiently high to dispense with artificial warmth, and no provision is made for heating apartments. As a matter of fact, it is usually high enough for comfort," though fires would be agreeable when it falls a degree or two hjwer than usual, for small variations are more felt in this equable climate than in jilaces where the range in temperature is greater. It is customary here, when a visitor takes olf his hat upon entering a riKjm, to beg liim tn jjut it on again ; ami, in the absence of permission, leave is geueiuUy reqtiested. This, it is said, arises from apprehension that cold will be taken by remaining uncovered. The same persons, upon going out of doors, take olf their hats to flashes of lightning, no matter whether rain is falling ; and, when the streets are bu.sy and lightning is abundant, a grotesque effect is produced by these salutations, which seem to be regarded a duty by well-behaved persons, and are performed as punctiliously as tiie homage which is paid to religious processions, when they are in sight. Our hotel was nearly in the centre of the city. It was kept liy a truculent Corsican, who habitually stuck his arms akinil.io and frowned at his guests, as if ready to kudck them down or eat off their heads. One day, at the inlilc d'ho/r, he fought a pitched ^ I dill not see Illiniza fruiu tlie raiiecillci, ami am uiialple to say wlictlior it is ever visible from it. - For temperatures at Quito, see Aiipciidix E. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 171 Inittle ill liis dwii mUc-a-mangtr. Conversation tunu-d njion the merits of tlie Napoleons, and Giacometti entertained strong opiiiidiis al.iout tliem, which did not coincide with tliose of a yomig Frenchman wlio had served in the cavahy, and taken part in the comliats around IMetz. Presently, the gentlemen called each otlier Har and cowaitl, and tlien all at once they jumped up and charged — Giacometti seizing a chair liy its Imck and raising it with hoth hands to hi'ain his guest, who, however, eluded the blow, and grappling with the maitre cVlwtd soon had him sprawling on the floor, kicking and raving like a madman. Glasses and crockery flew alidut, and the I'csult would have l^een very serious (for tlie cjiina) had not two persons fallen upon the combatants and dragged them apart. N"o sooner was the innkeeper released than he snatched up a Ijottle, and again made towards the cuirassier to break it on his head, but they were parted, and dragged yelling from the room to finish tlie fray outside. The coarseness of their language would have done credit to Billingsgate. I could not see that it was in the least diminished liy the low pressure reigning at Quito. Firim my windows at tlie hotel I looked out on one of the prin- cipid streets, and had excellent opportunities of viewing the little peculiaiities of the Quitonians. Here, as well as in other parts of South America, it is correct for ladies to cover up their features when walking abroad, but I found there was great laxity in this matter, and that the lower orders paid no attention to such proprieties. The straw hats of local manufacture were i^\ not fashionable. j\Ien wore the black, chimney -pot hat of civil- ization, and I have a story to relate about sometliing which befel a black hat in <.hiito. A l.ADY OK Qi:iTO. 172 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. ix. Upcm the day following our arrival, His Excellency the President of the Kepublic sent a very polite message through Mr. Hamilton, intimating his wish to see me. He received us without formality and with much cordiality, dismissing a visitor (who was, I believe, a Colonel in the Ecuadorian Army) to the farther end of the apartment. Out of regard to his time, after a little general conversation, we rose to go ; but he insisted upon our remaining, and presently enquired if there was anything he could do for me. I answered that there was. At this, just a shade of displeasure appeared on his mobile features, though he kindly asked, " In what way ? " I said that it would afford me gratification if he would permit his name to be connected with one of the Great Andes. " With the highest point of Chim- borazo," I went on, " one cannot meddle. Its second peak has not been christened, and I ask permission to be allowed to associate your name with it." The President now became interested in Chimborazo, and desired to know its height, and upon hearing it expressed sur- prise, saying, " I should have thought it was thirty thousand feet high, at the least." " Pardon me, your Excellency," I replied, "one could not have pi-oposed to associate the name of Veintc- milla with a peak f/iiiiy thousand feet high." He forgave this impromptu by asking for an account of the ascent, and Mv. Hamilton engrossed the Genei'al's attention with a graphic description of it. Presently, findhig himself in want of a black- board, and seeing nothing more like one than a black liat which was upon the table, he used it to illustrate the spiral ascent, and excited my admiration by the vigour and accuracy with which he traced our route, as he drove a deep furrow througli the shining nap, to shew Imw wc sank in the snow. While this tete-a-tite was progressing, the President leaning forwards on his elbows, intently following ]\Ir. Hamilton's dis- course, I noticed a movement at the other end of the room ; and, glancing round, i'ound tliat the Colonel was writliing in CHAIMX. A STORY ABOUT A BLACK HAT. 173 ap,onY. It was Ills hat, and he was on the point of exploding willi suppressed rage at seeing his Sunday head-gear used as a black-board for 'that wretched gringo.' He glared and scowled and seemed ready to spiing forward and assassinate all three of us. Mr. Hamilton was quite unconscious that he was raismg a storm, but the President noticed my glance, and, turning his head, innuediately perceived the state of affairs. His smile then caused our Minister to look, and to drop the hat instantly. "With grim humour (which I fear made the Colonel go over to the Eevolutionary party), the President requested Mr. Hamilton to continue, as he was much interested ; and then liy a few light touches, which fortunately went in the direction of the nap, the ascent was completed. His Excellency General Ygnacio de Veintemilla came into power liy a combination of stratagem and force, and went out fighting. It is diflicult to procure information upon the modern history of this country ; and, in default of a more authoritative source, I make the followhig extract from the Catecismo de Geo- grajia de la RepuUka del Ecuador, by Juan Leon Mera, Quito, 1875, pp. 180-184. " During tlie Presidency of Garcia Moreno," he says, " the nation entered upon a new life ; order and economy were introduced into the national finances, part of the floating deht was redeemed ; Brethren of the Christian Schools, Sisters of the Sacred Heart, and Jesuit Fathers were brought in to direct public instruction ; and some important public works were begun, particularly the high road between Quito and Guayaquil. At tlie end of 1863, in the interior, a Liberal Revolution was suppressed. . . In 1864 another Revolution was discovered, and there were revolutionary movements in Manabi. . . In 1865 the Revolutionists of Guayaquil seized the steamer Guayas. The President made, personally, the necessary arrangements, and went after the enemy. Those ringleaders who fell into the liands of the conqueror were put to death. . . Peace being re- established, Jeronimo Carrion succeeded Moreno as President " ; he resigned in 1867 and Javier Espinosa was elected, but (in 1868) "the effervescence of parties continued ; people talked openly of a Liberal Revolution, the Conservative party saw their danger and hastened to make one by re- 174 TRAVELS AMOXGST THE GHEAT AXDES. nominating Garcia Moreno on Jan. 16, 18G9. The President resigned the same day, and the Revolution spread over the whole Eepuldic. Meanwhile, a Revolution in Guayaquil broke out (Mar. 19) which was suppressed. . . In December of tlie same j-ear a conspiracy was discovered in Quito, and a new Revolution in Cuenca was suppressed. Since that time order has been established and peace assured, and Ecuador continues on her path of material and moral progress under the shelter of Republican institutions, based on the catholic principles which she has determined to adopt." This little book concludes by stating that Clarcia Moreno was assassinated on August 6, 1875.^ He was succeeded by Dr. Borrero, who recalled General Veintemilla from exile, and placed liini in command at Guayaquil. The General ad- vised his patron tliat he ex- pected the occitrrence of an- other Eevolution, and requested the troops might be sent from (,)uito. Having ol)tained them, and denuded the Capital of soldiers, Veintemilla made tlie Eevolution, and ejected Borrero. The new President had been in power about two years at the time of my visit, tliough not always in peaceful possession. At tlie end of 1877 some rebels from the north, joined !>}■ a innnber of Quitonians, compelled the General to intrench liimself in the heart of tlie city. Presently the insurgents ran short of ammunition and the others sallied i'orth and did'eated them. Four hundred were said to be killed in this affair. It was no secret in 1880 that plots were ' He was brutally murdered on tlie Grand Plaza, in front of the Govenmient Offices. Moreno is admitted to have been tlie strongest President of modern times. He deservi'd well of his conntry by the eonstniction of the great road tliinugli the interior, and the iiitiixbu-tion of i-c)ni|pnlsoiv education. Ml'ia.NO. cum: IX. PRESIDENTS OF THE ItKPUBLIC. 175 (III I'ddt tu remove liiiii, and the conspirators would have endeav- oured to accomplish this at an eailii'r date if they had seen their way past his three thousand breechloaders. The Clericals lost no opportunity of peraialjulating the streets with religious processions, and these were treated with respect. The I'resident made counter -demonstrations with his troops, hy parading them e^■ery day. I noticed that individual Piiests walking about were treated with scant coui-tesy, and possibly on lliis account they appeared little in public. By his opponents, (Iciicial W'iutemilla was freciuently termed the head of the irreligious jiarty, from his want of harmony with the Church.' I' ndei' his rule, newly-arrived ecclesiastics were refused admittance to Ecuador,- and the Jesuits, though not expelled, went more or less into hiding. He was ultimately ejected in duly, 1883, after six or eight months of revolution, and Caamauo was elected I'resident. His term of office expired in 1888, and now Senor Antonio Flores rules the Eepublic.'* ' The Cliuifh jiroiievty, tliougli somewhat ilesjiuileil, is still very extensive. The Cathedral, the Jesuits' Church, and the Church of the Immaculate Conception are the most important religions edifices. The latter was partly destroyed by fire while I was at Quito, on the night of March 25, 1880 (the night preceding Good Friday). At a time when the building was crowded, a candle on the High Altar tunililcd over and set the surrounding decorations in a blaze. There was a panic amongst the congregation and several lives were lost. - This was the fate of some who arrived at Guayaquil on the same steamer as my- self. They were sent on board again, having been previously informed that there were too many of their profession already in the country and reconunended to go to Lima. They coidd not have looked more unhappy if they had lieen told to go to Jericho. ^ A President is practically Dictator. See the Report to Mr. Blaine by Mr. Cluu'ch from which I have already quoted. He states that the Congress is com- posed of a Senate and House of Deputies, and that it assembles (usually for sixty days) every second year. The executive power is confided to the President, who is assisted by a Council of State. "The large majority of the Council are named by the President, and are his willing servants." According to Article 80 of the Constitution, the Council "may confer extraordinary powers" ujmu the President, and authorize him "to increase the amiy , dispose of the public funds, collect taxes in advance, impose forced loans, change the capital of tlie coniitry, expatriate or imprison citizens, etc." 176 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. ix. I feel it unnecessary to say niueh respecting tlie manners and customs of the Ecuadorians. They are a promising people. Mr. Hassaurek (who was for several yeai's United States Minister- Kesident at Quito) says ^ : — The " cu-stom of making liigli -sounding promises is univer.sal among Ecuadorians. . . If you make the acquaintance of one of them, he will overwhelm you with offers of his services. He will Ijeseech you to ' count him as one of the nunilier of your friends ' ; he will place his house, his haciendas, his horses at your disposal ; he will ask you to treat him con- fidentially, and to speak to him frankly, whenever you-should need anything that he can supply ; he will protest his ardent desire to be j'our friend and to serve you in every possible manner. . . Should you really apply to them for any of the services so pompously proffered, you must expect, as a general rule, that they will find a well-sounding excuse for refusing." Mr. Hassaurek seems inclined to consider these protestations as of no greater value tlian the words " your very humble and obedient servant " at the end of a letter, and as regards the majority of them his view is possibly correct. No one except an idiot would be disposed to treat them literally. The difficidty experienced by strangers is to discriminate between expressions wliich are simply flowery, and those which are meant to be sub- stantial. On various occasions, houses, haciendas, and horses, were actually placed at my disposal, and gentlemen went out of their way to render valuable services and unexpected courtesies; and it would Ije exceedingly ungracious to ignore these disinterested actions, even though there were a large number of uni-edeemed pledges, and flowers which did not blossom into fruit. As regards these it is charitable to think with Mr. Church that " the entluisi- astic Icindness of tlieir hearts frequently causes Ecuadorians to ^ See Four Years amoiitj Spnuish-Amcricfinx, by F. Hassaurek, New York, 1867. The descriptions in this work of the natives and tlicir ways are generally accurate. Ill other matters, this author is often unreliable. At p. 119, lie s.^ys, " For leagues round Quito scorpions hnvc never been heard of. . . Flies, even, are very rare. . . There are no lizards, or even bugs or beetles in the grass or oh trees." These state- ments are untrue. CHAi'. i.\. ECUADORIAN BONDS. 177 make pinmises small and great, which afterwards escape their memory ov are beyond their ability to perform." Amongst their other salient peculiarities one may point out that I'unctuality, which is esteemed a virtue by some, they seem to consider a pernicious vice. Their inveterate habit of procras- tination, and use of the word manana, has been a theme upon which every one has written who has dealt with Ecuador. Nothing is to be done to-day. Everything is promised for to-morrow, aud when the morrow arrives it will be promised for maiiana again. The e(piality of the temperatui'e, and the equality in the length of the days, and the presumption that to-morr(.iw will be like to-day, in my opinion, have much to do with this. " It would be good for these people," said Jean-Antoine, " to have a winter." The Alpine peasant, well acquainted with its inconveniences and hardships, felt that upon the whole they acted beneficially by promoting habits of industry and forethought. It is less possil^le to make allowances for their general dis- liosition to disregard tlie sacredness of agreements, to repudiate contracts, aud to advance ulterior claims. Following these prac- tices, as a natural result, there is universal distrust and want of contidence. They do not think the same as other people about these matter's ; or, to put it in a different way, their code of honour is different from ours. In many countries it is considered complimentary to say " Sir, your Word is as good as your Bond " ; Ijut, for reasons which need not be pointed out, one is debarred friim the use of that phrase in Ecuador. A foreigner at Quito, concerned in trade, who from many dealings with the Ecuadorians was able to speak with some authority, said to me, " I never consider a transaction terminated unless I give my customer a whipping." It appears that, in this country, the marks of the whip answer in the place of a receipt -stamp. These observations apply solely to the white and to the hybrid population. The Indians have the same hospitable instincts as the S[ianish- Americans, and I am inclined to characterize as their 2 A 178 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. ix. l)rincipul iiifiriiiity an extreme timidity, lieiglitened liy the general, and all-pei'vadiiig distrust. The Indian population in Quito Ijore a larger proportion to the whites than in the towns we had already visited.^ I am told that a umnber still remain of pure descent, whose ancestors have never contracted alliances with the con- querors. On the other hand, it is said that such a thing as a Spanish family of perfectly pure descent is not to be found in the country. For the most pai't the Indians lived in the suliurlis. They flocked in every morning, and kejit daily market with their baskets of wares on the three great plazas. I bought from them the examples of hand-made lace that are given on p. 179, which competes successfully with impoitations. It was remarked, too, that preference was shewn for the thread and calico made at Chillo, and for the coarse woollens produced at some local fac- tories, oxev similar English manufactures, notwithstanding that the foi'eign goods could sometimes Ije ol.itaincd at lower rates than the native ones. Prices in Ecuador generally ruled liiiib, thinigh there was a large difference in some matters between what was asked on the coast and in the interior. Labour at Gua}-aipiil was aljsurdly dear, and rents were extravagant, while in the inteiior both were low. Foreign goods were expensive all over the country, and selddui S(ild i'or less than three or four times European prices. A nominal quart bottle of IJass cost one and eightjience to two shillings at Guaranda, and two shillings at Ambato. At Latacunga it had risen to three shillings and fourpenee, and tliat was the pi-ice at all places farther to the north." They asked two shillings and threepence for a threepenny cake of soap at Ambato. A piece of sponge which might have been obtained for less than sixpence in England cost me a peso at Quito, and ' This coiitiiiufil :is wc [H'ogressi'il iKntliwards. In Cotocachi, Otovalo, and tlie surrounding nciglibourhood Indians largely outuuniljcred the whites. - Bass' Ale was found all over Eeuador, and was highly ajiprcciated there. At Quito, an enterprizing German was endeavouring to brew. Eaeli of his [lint bottles yielded about a gallon of froth and a tea- cup of lieer. PRICES. 179 ' m - m • KCUADOKIAN HAND-MADE LACE. tlirco sliilliii^s ami timrpence (ten I'eals) was tlie jirico at the Capital jii r jio/nu! for English salt. All glass and rhiiia was very 180 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. ix. dear there, partly through the large auiuunt of breakage in transit, from bad packing. Native productions were often Ijy no means low in piice. Meat (when it could be got) was cheap, and generally ranged from twopence-halfpenny to threepence per pound. In the north, fresh eggs could be bought for four a penny ; while in Guayaquil, and in the more southern parts, one t(j two pesos apiece were demanded for miserable chickens. Spii'its of wine cost me three shillings per pint at Guayaquil, and tenpence at Quito ! At Otovalo, Cayambe, and other places, brown sugar and unroasted coffee were each tenpence per pound, though raised in the district. Common raisins cost three shillings, and camphor fiiur shillings per pound in Quito.^ The high prices of foreign commodities were attributed to ex- cessive duties and the expense of transit. Still, there appeared to be a good margin left, and I doubt if any one was satisfied with less than a hundred per cent profit. Everywhere there appeared to be ojjenings for commercial euterprize, either for retaileis or for wholesale transactions, yet the country seemed to ha\'e little attraction to Englishmen, for at the time of my stay there were only three in Quito.- Personally, I should not advise any one to embark a single shilling in Ecuador. There are an unknown quantity of earthquakes and revolutions to be taken into account. A man may be rich in one day and wrecked the next. These possibilities invest trade in this region with the excitement of gambling, and the trader should also bear in mind that the repudiation of agreements and the non -fulfilment of contracts will often upset his calculations and blight his hopes. These references to prices lead me to conclude this chapter ^ Medicines and fancy goods were sold at larger differences from Enropcan prices. I could have sold my .stock of suljihate of quinine for more than its weight in gold. - Namely, Mr. Hamilton, British Minister - Resident ; Mr. Jones, a shoiilveeper ; and Mr. Verity, an English mechanic out of employment. Of other foreigners there were about twenty-five Frencli, a dozen Germans, and ten Italians, Danes and Swedes. CHAP. IX. MONEY. 181 with a few wunls iiiMin the money ami the Hanking institntiuns (if Ecnador. ^Vt the time my jonrney was made, money was reckoned in Pesos and Jieals} Eight Heals made a Peso. The coins most frequently met with were the silver Peso, silver pieces worth one and two Heals, and half- Ileal pieces, termed Medios. Tliere was a gold coinage not in circulation, and a silver quarter -Heal which was seldom seen. In Guayaquil (and I believe on the coast genei'ally) bronze coins were not current ; though they were in general use in the interior, and were said to be legal tender as far south as Pdijljamfia. At this time the English Sovereign was worth sixty Eeals, and the Peso, there- fore, was equal to two Shillings and eight Pence. There were only two banks, namely, the Bank of Ecuador at Guayaquil, and the Bank of Quito at the Capital. Both of these institutions issued notes (down to the value of one Peso), which were accepted as readily as silver, at their full value, and were very convenient." I travelled in Ecuador liy means of a Letter of Credit, entitling me to draw up to the amount of a sum which was deposited in a London Bank before the letter was issued. I drew something from the Bank of Ecuador, and received from that institution a fresh letter of credit to the Bank of Quito. The amount taken from the Bank of Ecuador was princi- pally in paper. For small payments it was necessary to have a consideraljle quantity of reals and medios, and these w^ere handed over the counter in a closed bag. Upon lieing examined, it appeared that the arithmetic of the Bank differed from that in conmion use. Anyhow", the money was short by a serious ' I am informed tli.it tlie xircscnt manner of reckoning money is based on tlie hard or ten real Dollar. The old Peso is no longer recognized. This hard dollar is called a Sucre, and is of the same nominal value as the reruvian ressed a desire to see me, and tendered the money he had stopped, not, he said with some emphasis, because I was going to write a Ijook, but because he thought " it would be more regular " to charge the amount to the Bank of Ecuador. I mentally con- trasted "it is our usual custom" with "it would lie more regular," and only remarked that perhaps the Bank of Ecuador would not take the same view ; and upon return to Guayaquil my surmise proved to be correct, and I found that the I'ank of Ecuador had snapped its fingers at its brother in the Capital. CIIAI'. IX. CAUSES AND RESULTS. 183 Tliis is all I have to observe about the Bank of Quito, exeept that it is said to be a tluurishini;' institution, paying good thvidenJs. The two Banks enjoy, I am told, the privilege of re-issuing their notes until they are worn out, and refuse ]iayment of them when certain niaiks and numbers disappeai'. Though this manner of earning a dividend is exceedingly simj)le in operation and certain in results, and seems to be accepted by the people with perfect resignation, it is p)ossible that it is one of the various causes which produce the universal mistrust of each other and of everybody that is exhilated throughout the countrv. BEETLE-WING EAKKING. i;^^s^SS^^^rf^^>;>^-' THE HACIENDA OF ANTISANA. CHAl'TEK X. THE FIRST ASCENT OF ANTISANA. We ' left Quito for Antisana on March 4, tlie clay following my interview with the President; and crossing the Pueugasi ridge, descended into the basin of Chillo. This is another of those large (almost saucer -shaped) depressions which it seems to me are more appropriately termed basins than %'alleys. It is, howe\'er, often called the valley of Chillo, after a small village on its southern edge, where there is a cotton factory Ijelonging to the Aguirre family." ' To reiilacc Mr. rcniiig, who left mc at Quito, I ongaged a Jlr. Vcrit}', an English mechanic who had recently terminated an engagement at the Chillo liietory. He continued with me until the beginning of May, and I I'ound his acijuaintance with the country round Quito very useful. - This is one of the old, noble families of Ecuador. Under the Reiiublican levelling they were deprived of their title, Marquis de Selvalegre. cHAi'. x. THE BAKiy OF CHILLO. 185 This liixsin is bounded on the eiist by Antis;in:i, whieh is one of the Iciftiest of the E(j^imtorial Andes, and is amongst those that extend over a great space of ground. From east to west, that jiart of it wliich is 12,000 feet above the sea or higher, covers aliout twenty miles,^ and from north to south it is not much less extensive. On the south, tlie liasin is enclosed lij- Sincholagua ; (lu tlie west, by Pasochoa and the I'uengasi ridge; and on the ucirtli liy the southern end of an important l)lock of mountains (of which there is no indication on my map) called (ruamani," that extends light up to the Equator, and on tlie west almost ti inches the villao-e of Pifo. The drainao-e of this basin, united with the Pio I'ita (coming from Cotopaxi), and with the Pio tirande from the basin of Machachi, intersects the Plain of Tum- baco, and Mis ultimately into the Eio de Guallabamba. During our passage across the basin of Chillo, I did not at any time get a glimpse of a single one of these surrounding mount- ains ; and seldom saw more than two or three miles in any direction, often not so much as a mile. I did not see a single feature from which bearings for positions could lie obtained, and our track as far as the Hacienda of Aiitisanilla is accordingly laid down from dead reckoning. The bottom of this basin is consider- ably lower, and its temperature is appreciably higher than that of l.)uito.^ Shortly before my departure from Europe, Boussingault pub- lished in the Comptes Bcndus of the French Academy of Sciences ' On the west, Antisana may be considered to extend as far as the Hacienda of I'iuantura (10,308 feet, R. & S.) - The ramifications of Guamani, so far as I am aware, have never been explored. Nothing is known of its eastern side. In tlie month of April, I overlooked this region from the north, and found there were no peaks in it fairly within the snow -line. ' Tho\igh the land here was more under cultivation than the gi'eater part of the country we had ti-aversed, the inhabitants were miserably off for food. Potato soup was the only article of diet that could be relied upon. All our provisions were taken from t^uito. ■1 li 186 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. x. some Meteorological observations^ wliieli were said to liave Leen made by Seiior Carlos Aguirre, thiity-tliree years befoi'e, at the Hacienda of Antisana. These observations had a particular in- terest for nie, fir they gave information respecting tlie weather we were likely to experience at great heights in the neigh- bonrliood of tlie Eipiator. It appeared from them that tlie elevated farm where they wei'e made enjoyed a very e(iuable temperature, and was abundantly proAiiled with fogs. Tempera- ture was liighest in January and lowest in August, and the mean for the year (1846) was found to be 5°'18 C. (ecpial to a little more than 41° Faht.) In 1375 days tliere were recorded 130 of fog, 122 rainy, 36 witli snow, and only 34 on winch the sky was visible.^ After crossing the Eio I'ita,' the weather kept up its character, and black thunder- clouds gathered in all directions. Foreseeing tlie tempest, we hurried foi' shelter to a large farm, the Hacienda Colegio, and just escaped a tremendous downpour. Tlie sudden irruption of a score of men and beasts was treated as a matter of course. We were recei\'ed with the greatest urbanity, and on lea\ing at 4.45 on the following morning w^ere provided with a guide as far as the small village of I'intac — midway between the ' DMcnnination de la hauteur dti mcrcnre dans le barovitlrc sous Vipiatcur ; amplitude des miiatiuns diuriies haroiMtriques A ditcrscs stations dans Ics Cordillcrcs, par M. Boussingault. Co7H2)ies Ecndus hchdotnadaires des sianccs dc I'Aead. des Sciences, tome Ixxxviii., No. 24. - U])oii my rctiivn (through a reference made by Dr. W. Reiss) I found that these observations had also ai)peared iu tlie Comptcs Itcndas in 1S51 (tome xxxii. ) There are numerous discrepancies between these papers. In the one published in 1879 it is stated that the greatest observed diurnal variation of the barometer (in 1846) was 1"65 mm., on April 27 ; while in the other paper there is a record of 1'69 mm., on March 12, 1846. The mean annual temperature is said in vol. Ixxxviii. to have been 5°'18 C, and in vol. xxxii. it is seen to have been 4°"S6 C. It is desirable that some one should point out which of these two jiapcrs is to be considered authoritative. ^ The Rio Pita was running very rapidly here. Our animals crossed it by swinnnluf;. and were carried down about a cpiartcr of a mile before they canH> to laud. CHAP. X. EENCOWTFE WITH SEIZOR REBOLLEDO. 187 two jilaces passing over sonic road that was several degi-ees worse than the Camino Eeal between Munapanil)a and Tandjo Gobierno, with mud two to three feet deep. I had been rebuked in Quito f(ir ol)jecting to that 'Royal' route, because our animals had sunk liall'way up their tlanks. Upon asking my monitor what he con- sidered a bad road, he said, " ^V road is bad when the 1 leasts tumble into mud-holes and vanish light out of sight." This nearly occurred at one place. Our narrow track (at this spot, a mere rut between two walls of earth) di\ided. On the right there was a steep and greasy passage, and on the left a pool, eight or ten feet across. ]\Iy animal stopped on the biink, unwilling to pro- ceed. Dismounting, I gave it a touch with the whip, it went head first into the slough, and emerged on tlie other side a miseraljle object, dripping with filth, which for a second had risen aljove its liiiid([uarters. This mud-hole was aliout four feet deep, and w^as the tinest we discovered in Ecuador. On cpiitting Pintac, however, the track became lietter, and highly interesting; at some parts leading between deep, mossy banks laden with semi-tropical ferns and creepers, underneath liranches and roots, and crossing spai'kling streams — rare things in this country. After passing the large farm of Pifiantura,^ our ardour was damped by one of the afternoon deluges, and when tliis ceased we fouiul our path i-aii roughly parallel to a great stream of lava, which descended from the clouds, and spread out into the valley of the Isco. Whilst winding in and out of the liends, amongst the arched foliage, in advance of the otliers, I was surprised — not having met a soul in the course of the day — to see a gra\e and very unsliaven man approaching, well mounted on a fast ambler; by dress, as well as by demeanour, evidently no common wayfarer. He drew rein, and there was scarcely time to wonder who was this dis- tinguished stranger before anotlier horseman cantered round the ' Insects were abundant here, and several novelties were secured whilst on tlie march. See Sujip. Aj>p., jip. 20 and 60. 188 TRAVELS AMONGST THE CREAT ANDES. chap. x. farthei' coriicr, and aimtlior, and then they came liy twos and threes, until I saw tliirty or more, rising and falling over the undulating ground like huoyant shi})S on a breezy sea; jo\ial, wild -looking fellows, picturesquely attired in sombreros and with legs encased in hairy liuskins, all liding powerful horses, and sitting like men born in the saddle. As they came up, they halted at a respectful distance behind tlieir lord. I sent Verity forward to make enquiries; and tlien, after Ibiiually saluting, each party went its way. I was not aware until the train liad swept past tliat we had met Senpr Eebolledo, the owner of Aiitisana, of the fai'ms of Pinantura, Antisanilla, Antisana and all the intervening country, and other large estates ; the propiietor of a princely domain, unlimited on the Amazonian side. If one enquired how far it extended, they answered, " As far as you can go t(i the East " - — it had no boundaries in that dii-ection. They had been engaged in a grand stock - taking ; and, as the cattle ranged over many miles and had to be driven in from long distances, the work was too nmcli for the usual liaiids, and major-domos had been borrowed from the surrounding properties to assist in tlie operation. Judging from their hilarity, the census was satisfactory. Senor Piebolledo heard somehow that we were without cheese, and sent a quantity after us. A messenger came daily to the Hacienda of Antisana to learn our wants, and I had only to express a desire to have it satisfied. " Tell me," I said, when we were better acquainted, " why d(i you shower tliese civilities iqion me ? " and I'cceived no other answer than " I took to you from the first." In a short time after passing this splendid troop, the track dipped down to cross the Isco ri\-ulet, and we arrived at the Hacienda Antisanilla (12,342 feet), a small place, liuilt alongside the lava-stream of which I have spoken — rather densely popu- lated by savage dogs, and liy herdsmen who were not so refined in the matter of cleanliness as one might have wished. I could CMAI-. x. THE HACIENDA OF ANTIHANA. 189 nut tnist inysclt' iipdu tlie licds wliirli tlioy politely vacated (loose straw strewn over wcjoden Imnks) and passed the iiiglit liy ]ireference on the top of a four -foot table. The length of the lava -stream of Antisanilla can hardly be less than seven to eight miles. 1 clamliered to the top, and got little reward, IVir the farther side, as well as its upper and lower extremities, were lost in mist. Its I'ed colouring is probably superficial, and the nucleus of the mass, I conjectui-e, is a very dark and compact lava, specimens of which were liroken out with some labour.' The surface was e.\tremely rugged, and bore an amazing quantity of the lichen Ihnca jlorula, Fries. On the morning of March 6 we left for the Hacienda of .Vntisana, led by one of 8enor ReboUedo's people, who dismounted tVom time to time, and lit the grass to shew the way to our laggards. The Hacienda was a barn-like building, occupying one side of a large enclo.sure for herding cattle ; and had remained, I was told, unaltered since the visit of Humboldt. "\^'e took up f[uai'ters on the first floor, and kept constant watch from its little gallery for the appearance of Antisana, which had been eomjiletely inxisiUe dux'ing the last few days. We should not, indeed, have had the slightest suspicion that we were in the neighltourhood of a mountain of the first rank, or a mountain of any kind, if the herdsmen had not told us tlie contrary. In the course of the afternoon the mists opened lazily, and rcN'ealed bits here and there, and then drifted across and shut them out.^ These occasional glimpses lasted only a few minutes ' " A Ijlack, sub-vitreous rock, containing small cry.staLs of white felspar, whose ilianiPter is commonly not more than 0"125 inch. Tlie general aspect of the specimen shews it to be one of the darker varieties of andesite, a member of the group of rocks that have been variously named melai)hjTe, pitchstone - porphyrite, etc. . . The rock on the whole agrees best with augite - andesite. Its specific gravity, determined by Mr. J. J. H. Teall, is 2-656."— Prof. T. G. Bonney, Proc. Royal Snc, Jiarch 1-3, 18S4. - The view facing p. 190 has been constructed from several photograjihs which I took at this time. We did not see so much of the mountain at any single moment. 190 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. x. or seconds, and shewed that the moiiiitaiu had not the siin})Ueity of form that we had supposed. At such distances as it had previously been seen (25 to MO miles) the minor details were indistinguishable, and the crest had seemed to be a long, un- interrupted, snowy ridge. It now became apparent that its structure was more complicated ; and, if the mountain had been viewed for the first time from tlie Hacienda, we might have been in doubt as to the position of the highest point.' From these fragmentary glimpses, I made out that the upper 3500 feet of Antisana were almost absolutely covered by snow and glacier, and that on an ascent we should not touch rock at all. The summit bore 50° E. of N. (magnetic) from the Hacienda, and the base of the nearest glacier had almost exactly the same healing.- The main course of this ice-stream occupied the holl(.)W in the centre of the view, and at its superior extremity was fissured by lai'ge and very long crevasses; higher still there were many compound fractures, and the summit of the mountain was protected liy an enormous schrund, forming a moat, which was ob\'iousl}- impassable on the west and nortli. I proposed to make for the nearest glacier ; and, after ascending the trough or hollow, to bear to the left with tlie view of reaching the sunnnit from the south. Anticipating that nothing would be gained by waiting, I gave the oi-der to march. We started from the Hacienda of Antisana at 4.35 a.m., on March 7, and steering N.E. (under the guidance of some of the herdsmen, who had a perfect accpiaintance with the lower slopes) got to the Ijase of the glacier (15,295 feet) at C.-iO ; having lost some time l)y the disappearance of a certain impetuous person wlio could not brook local loaders.^ Our animals were left here, ' The true summit of Antisana lies underneath tlic asterisk at tlie top of the engravinf,'- - This glacier is concealed hy clouds in the engraving. ^ .leau-Antoine always endeavouied to be in front, ami on several occasions caused trouble by getting out of touch. He was cured ol' this haliit by something that occurred on Cayanibc. CHAP. X. BEATEN ON ANTISANA. 191 ami we prdceedod on foot, liy moraine on the northern side (riglit Ijank) of the glacier, nearly seven hundred feet higher in f( irty minutes ; and then, arriving at the termination of land, dismissed the natives, who up to this point had carried the bao-gage. The elevation of this place was 15,984 feet above the sea. We roped up at once,^ and took to the ice at 7.30 a.m. Only the first part of it was free from snow, and it was highly crevassed ; but, as the fissures were small at the beginning, we were able to keep a direct course for about an hour, at this time passing alongside the serrated ridge that is shewn on the right of the engraving,- having the upper part of the mountain free from cloud. The glacier then steepened, and became liroken up into seracs (nearly invisible from below) which recpiired much cutting, and beating down to consolidate the snow -bridges lead- ing from one to another. Some of these passages were very complicated, and extensive circuits had to be made to avoid the largest crevasses. At 10.30 a.m. the mists cauglit us up, and lialf an hour later we arri\'ed at a prodigious schrund, not less than two hundred feet deep and some sixty feet wide. We wasted more than two hours in attempts to cross it, and I spoilt my eyes by vainly endeavouring to see into the invisible. At last it was found that we had run into a cul-de-sac, and had to retreat. At 1.20 p.m. we turned to descend;' and liy 5.55 were back at the hacienda. ' Altlioiigli not necessary to do so at tins stage, it would have been at a later one. It conduced to regidarity in the niareli. To tlie advantages to be derived from the use of the rope in mountaineering w liich are set forth at pp. 372-377 of Scrambles amongst the Al^'s may be added that it tends to produce a better average rate of speed. The pace of a party is deter- mined by that of its slowest member. Wlicn tied up, the rapid or impetuous ones cannot rush away, and the slow -coaches are urged on. - The points on this ridge were decorated with tufted cornices. See p. 133. ^ The place at which we turned back was 17,623 feet above the sea. It was founcl afterwards that we had borne too much to the right, and had been going aw.ay from the summit. 192 TRAVF.LH AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. x. It appears frdin a passage in the Conq/ta Iktidus (\"ul. Ixx.wiii., p. 1241) ' that Boussingault was affected on Antisana by snow- blmdness, and I liad a similar unpleasant experience on the 7th of March. Though the harm was done between 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. (througli uncovering the eyes to use my field -glass), it did not manifest itself for some hours later. In the course of the even- ing I became unal)le to see, and remained in tliat condition for twenty -four hours. Verity sat up through the night handing rags dipped in a solution of sulphate of zinc, changing them when they grew hot, and this occurred in a few minutes after each application. The affection that is termed 'snow -blindness' is inflammation of the eyes. They became extraoixlinarily sensitive to light. The lids refuse to open ; tears come freely, and coagulating round the lashes glue the lids fast. To apply a lotion effectively, the lids must be forced open, and the instant this is done the patient will imagine that red-hot needles are being driven through the eyes into the lirain. The pain is acute, and sometimes makes strong men howl.- Snow- blindness has long been known to Indians dwelling in the Andes. Acosta, writing three centuries ago, mentions a remedy that they applied, which reminds one of the raw beefsteaks used liy prize-fighters. ' " Peiidaut 111011 ascension, je fus atteiiit suliitenicnt d'une oplitlialniic cU's pins graves, canstie par la reverberation des neiges. Olilige de retourner a Qnito, je dns renoncer h eontiimer les observations qne j'avais coniinencees a la metairie." - Medical men recoinniend two or three grains of snlpliate of zinc to an ounce of water. In practice, I find that the solution may be made stronger, with safety and benefit, and that six, eight or ten grains to the ounce is not too much to use. Although the inllainniation may be reduced ipiickly, and tlie absolute inaliility to see may .soon pass away, the eyes remain tender and weak for a long time (after a bad attack, even for weeks or moiitlis) and they are more liable to be affected than before, unless extra precautions are taken. Pulling and cracking of tlio skin, and snow-lilinduess, can be avoided liy keeping the face covered, and liy using tinted snow - spectacles. My usual aiiiiearance at great elevations on this journey is shewn at p. 80. CHAP. X. SXUJr- BLINDNESS. 193 " Comming," he says, " one night into a Tam1)f> (ji- Inne, being much afflicted with paine in mine eies, thinking they would fall out, the which ilooth commonly happen in those partes, for that they passe thorow places covered with snow, which is the cause of this accident, lieing troubled with this paine, and out of i)atience, there came an Indian woman, which said to 1110, ' Father, lay this to thine eies, and thou shalt be cured.' It was a peece (if the flesh of vicuiias, newly killed anil all bloody. I vsed this medicine, and presently the paine ceased, and soone after went (juite a\\'ay." l Oil the evening of IMareh 8 I lieoau to recover sight," and planned another attempt to scale the misty mountain. I cherished great expectations of a liouiidless view on the eastern side, when Iiidkiiig down iipiin tlie liasiii of the Amazons — the largest forest- covered region in the world. Tiie only two known ways out of Ecuador, through the Andes, to the great South American river, are those which lead through Papallacta ^ for the Napo route, and through Banos for the Pastassa. These places are aliout ninety miles apart, and nothing is known of the intervening country, or of that more north and south. The trails on tliese routes pass tlirough forest. No distant vistas are possil^le, and our knowledge nf tiie region has scarcely advanced since it was first made known, shortly after the Spanish Conquest. I conjectured that the atmospheric conditions on Antisana strongly resembled those which prevailed on Chimborazo, where it had frequently been noticed, from our Second and Third Camps, that the clouds sank below 16,000 feet at the approach of night, and left the higher regions clear. AVith the return of day they again mounted, or were re-created, around the summits. The complicated ice-navigtition near the top of ^Vntisiina could not ' (Quoted from The NnJiiral untl .Voral Hhtory of tlic InrJics, liy Father Joseph de Acosta (re]iriiited from tlie English translated edition of Edward Griiiiston, 1604, for the Hakluyt Society, 1880; vol. 1, pp. 287-8). - T''e right eye remained painful for two montlis, and did not recover until return to Europe. " Papallacta, according to Dr. JI. A'illavicencio, means 'country of potatoes.' It is the name of a small village, lying, I am told, aliout as far to the north of the summit of Antisana as the Hacienda of Antisanilla lies to the west of it. 2c 194 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. x. be effected in a fog. It was necessary to see where we were going, and to arrive at this part at an early hour, liefore the mists liad risen. It was tlierefore arranged to camp (jut, at tlie edge of the glacier, as high as natives could be taken. On March 9, at 12.55 p.m., we started again ; got the caravan to the foot of the moraine at 2.40, and all tlie baggage up to the camping-place (15,984 feet) by 4 p.m. Our natives with Verity then returned to the hacienda, leaving us at the extreme top of the moraine ^ on the right bank of the glacier, which forms a tail or lower prolongation of the Ijasin in the centre of the engraving. A fierce hail -storm occurred while we were on the way, and snow fell heavily afterwards ; yet the temperature did not descend so low as the freezing-point hi tlie night, and at 4 a.m. on tlie 10th it stood at 40° -5 Faht. The weather seemed very doubtful in the morning, and we delayed until daybreak, to see Ikjw it would develop. The Cairels and I got away at 5.38 a.m., and travelled quickly, through deriv- ing considerable benefit from the track made on the 7th, which was well seen, although several inches of snow liad recently fallen. At 7.30 a.m. clciuds fumu'd ainuiid the highest point of the mount- ain, and it remained invisilile until the afternoon. At altout 8 a.m., when approaching the summit ridge, we got into a labyrinth of crevasses, and liad ditticulty in finding a way amongst them. The chasms in the ice on the upper part of Antisana are of great 1 The moraine on which we encamped contained samples of the upper rocks of Antisana that had come from various heights and directions. All were lavas, — some compact and otliers scoriaceous. Several of the more compact varieties are very handsome rocks wlien polis]icd. in colour rangini; from lavender-gi'py to purple- black. No rocks could lie olitaincd liigher than the cain]i. Such as were exposed were in inaccessible positions. My collection has been examined by Prof. T. G. Bonney, and is described by him at length in the Proceedings of the Royal Society, Mar. 13, 1884. "The rocks which form the actual ]ieak of Anti-sana," he .says, "are augite - andcsites, containing at any rate occasionally hyiiersthene, and to the same group belongs, though ])crliaps it is slightly more basic, tlie rock of the great lava-streani which has descended to Antisanilla." CHA1-. X. ON THE SUMMIT OF AXTISAXA. 195 size, — some, as iniich as half a mile long-, two himdreil luul lifty Icet deep, and sixty to eighty feet across. One of the larger ones was crossed hy a snow - bridge ; and, altliongh tied widely apart, all of lis were on the bridge at tlie same time. Alxive this the slopes steepened, and ominons cracking sounds occui'red. All three exclaimed simultaneously, " I fear an avalanche."' But no sno\v-sli}> happened, and presently the gradients lessened, ceased, and tiie slopes fell away in front." My cherished dream of a bnundless view over the Amazonian basin was annihilated in that instant. Nothing could lie seen through the mists that encircled the mountain. Tlie snow still rose on our left, and we lient nmnd t" tlie north, and after a few hundred yai'ds it fell away on that side. Then we bore north-west, west, south-west, south, south-east and round to north again, always keeping the rising snow against the left shoulder. At last we could jierceive no tendency to rise or fall in any direction, and came upon a nearly level plain of snow, lost in mist on all sides. This was the summit. It was still early in the day, and we reposed upon the snow, around tlie liarometer, in air so calm that it could scarcely be said to lilow from any quarter. At 10.2(1 a.m. the barometer ^ I overruled Jean - Antoine on this occasion. He wished to take the slope trans- versely, and I insisted upon going straight up, holding the opinion that that course was less likely to disturb the equilibrium of the slope than by making a groove across it. These cracking sounds are produced by snow on the lower parts of slopes slip]iiiig down and being divided from the snow above. Sometimes the fissures that are caused are nearly invisible (scarcely the eighth of an inch across) or they may be inches or feet wide. This depends upon the extent of the slip. If the snow above has got good hold it may remain immovable, notwithstanding the division ; but, more usually, through being deprived of support, some of it slips down against the part which has already yielded, and the shock causes the face of the slope to peel off in an avalanche. See the impressive narrative liy Mr. P. C. Oosset in the .\ppeiulix to Scrambles amongst the Alps. - We struck the summit -ridge about half an iucli to the right of tlie ,-isteri.sk on the enKi'aviui;. 196 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chai>. x. (reduced to 32" Faht.) read 15 "129 inches, with air temperature 53°-5, and at 11.20 a.m. (red. to 32° Faht.), 15-154 inches, air temp. 56° Faht. In the hour and forty minutes we remained on the top^ temperature in the shade ranged from 44° to 60° Faht.,^ though the highest temperature observed at the Hacienda during our stay there was only 49°. Thus, the loiccst tempera- ture expei'ienced on the .summit of Antisana (44°), more tlian 19,000 feet above the level of the sea, surrounded by ice and snow in every direction for several miles, was only 5° less than the highest temperature obsei'\'ed at the farm, six thousand feet lower. Such an occurrence is unprecedented in my experience. Mr. Ellis, in calculating the height of Antisana, has employed, at my request, the means of the readings at 10.20 a.m., and 11.20 a.m., in conjunction with an 11 a.m. oliservation by Mr. Chambers at Ciuayaipiil (mere. bar. red. to 32° Faht., 29'912 inches, with air temp. 80° Faht.), and his deduced altitude for the summit is 19,335 feet. If this determination and that subsequently made of Cayambe are correct, Antisana is the third in rank of the Great Andes of the Equator.^ ' We airived on tlic .sumiiiil at 10 a.m., and left it at 11.40 a.m. = Marcli 10, ISSO. Summit of Antisana |,19,.335 ft.) Do. do. Do. do. Do. do. Do. do. Do. do. I used on tins occasion tlie tliermcmieter attached to the mercurial barometer ; a mercurial maximum thermometer; a (niiek- acting plain mercurial thermometer; and a spirit minimum thermometer. The first - named of these was verified at Kew Observatory, and was re -compared upon return. I give in Appendix A a facsimile of the Kew certificate of verification. At 10 a.m. on March 9 at the Hacienda of Antisana, temperature in the shade was 43°'5 Faht.; at 10 a.m. on March 11 it was 45°; and at 11.40 a.m., on the 6th, it was 48°. ' See my remarks on this .suliject in Appendix A. According to La Condamine and Reiss & StUbel, Antisana is the fourth in rank of the tireat Andes of the Etpiator (La Condamine, 19,313 ; R. & S., 18,885 feet). 10.20 a.m. 53' -5 Falit. 10.30 ,, 50°-0 ,, 10.35 „ 4.5--0 ,, 10.45 ,, 45°-0 „ 11.15 „ 50°-0 ,, 11.20 ,, 56'-0 ,, CHAP. X. CTiATKh'K AXD CRKI'ASSES. 197 After we had desecudcil a .short di.staiice the eluuds cleared sufficiently tn let it he .seen tluit we had heeii on the top, and to shew that the snowy portion ach der Qiichmda ' Picdra Aziifni,' dessen Nanien selion anf eine, wenn aucli uoc'.i so geringe vulkauische Thiitigkeit hinweist. " 198 TlfAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. x. approaoli it. "With slow and anxious pulls they haulfil away, fearing that the rope would he severed hy the glassy edges; 1iut, before my head touched the hridge, more of the brittle structure yielded, and I went down again. This was repeated several times, and then Jean-Antoine, seeing that their eftbrts must he ineffectual so long as they were on opposite sides, leaped the chasm ; and, with united pulls, the two cousins lauded me with a jerk, through the frozen vault and its pendent icicles, on to the surface, poorer by a cap, though not otherwise the worse for the innnersion.^ In twenty minutes we arrived at the camp, where the others were already in waiting, and b}- (].40 p.m. we were back at the Hacienda, having spent some time on the way in adding to our collections.- Tlie Hacienda of Antisana is reputed to lie the highest farm in Ecuador, and it owes its existence to the grazing that is afforded by the surrounding slopes. The cattle seemed to find upon them cpiite sufficient pasturage, though the grasses in general wei'e not so luxuriant as upon Chimljorazo, and other places at ' It is usually considered uuneeessary to lie tied up wlien traversing glacier that is not covered by snow. This incident shews the contrary. After my extrica- tion, we examined the crevasse, and found that it was several hundred feet long, and seven feet wide where I broke through. It dill'ered from all others tliat we had ever seen in being bridged by ke. This was only an inch or two tliick in the centre, though more sn1)stantial where it sprang from tlie walls of the crevasse. It could neither be detected by any ' droop ' on the surface nor by ' sounding ' in the usual manner. We had crossed it three times witliout being aware of its existence. Its formation was no doubt due to the peculiar meteorological conditions which prevail in the Andes of the Ecpiator ; and, as there was a strong probability that there were more of the same kind, we considered it advi.sable to use a double rope on subsequent traverses of Ecuadorian glaciers. - The ascent of Antisa:ia was effected at a better rate than usual, owing to the assistance derived from iinr old track. Leaving camp (15,984 feet) at 5.38 a.m., at 10 a.m. we were on the summit (19,335 feet). Including lialts, tliis ascent was therefore made at the rate of 767 feet per hour. We started from the summit at 11.40 a.m., and were back .at camp by 2.20 p.m. Including the loss of time from the detour and tlic cre\asse incident, the descent was nuide at the rate of 1340 feet per hour. CHAP. X. FLOBA OF AXTIl^ANA. 199 greater lieiglits than thirteen thousaiul feet. Tlie flora here, whilst interesting frcini its cliaracteristic xVndean species, had few iither attractions, — yet tlie flowers of Gentiana foliosa, H.B.K., were somewhat showy ; the downy heads of Culcitiwm were not \vith()ut a certain grace ; and not far fr'oni the Hacienda, at about 14,000 feet, we fmiml the elegant fern Polypodiion Jirfn-omorpJiuin, Hook. e*c (irev. This was, with one exception, the highest piisition at wliich we o1)tained ferns in Ecuador. The examples (if the Orders wliieh are mentioned in tlie footnote,^ marked by asterisks, were fcmnd im the western slopes (if Antisana at greater elevations than the same species were noticed elsewhere." ' The following i.s a li.st of our gatheriiig.s upon Antisana. Lic-liens : — Lecidca sp., Antisanilla (12,.342) ; Neiirojmjon mdaxanthits, Nyl., at our camp (16,000); Slrreomulon sp., Autisauilla (1'2,342) ; Slcreocaiilon sp. at our camp (16,000) ; Usnea florida, Fries, Antisanilla (12,.342). YwwQi ■.—Omphalia umhcllifcra, Fr. (13,000) ; Psilocijbe sp. (13,000), both from the slopes below the Hacienda of Autisana. Lycopodiaceffi : — Lycopodium Saururus, L. (15-16,000). Filices : — Pohjpodium rulgare, L., Antisanilla (12,342), and P. riyldum, Hook. & Grev., Antisanilla (12,342), both growing among hollows on the margin of the lava-stream close to the Hacienda; P. hcteromorplmm, Hook. & Grev., on the .slopes above the Hacienda of Antisana (14,000). GraniineiE : — Dcyeuxia recta, Bonpl. (13,300- 15,000) ; Dcyeuxia sp. (14,000) ; Lunula alopecurus, Desv. ^14,000) ; Poa sp. (14,000); Festuca mollis, Ktli. (14,000). Gentianacefe :— ffc«/('n!;«/oZ;osa, H.B.K. (14-15,000); 6. rupi<:ola, H.B.K. (14-15,000); G. sedifolia, H.B.K. (14,500). EricaceiB : — PerneUia Pcntlandii, DC. (14-14,500); * Faccinium pcna'oides, H.B.K. (15-16,000). Conipo.sitte : — * Achyroj>hiirus, near sctosus, Wedd., at our camp (16,000); Baecluiris alpina, H.B.K. (14-14,500); Culcitium adscendciis, Kth. (14-15,000); C nivale, Kth. (14-15,000); * C. rcflcxum, Kth. (15-16,000); * Lori- caria fcrriiijinea, Per.s. (15-16,000) ; Pcrczia punt/ens. Less. (14,500) ; Werncria sp. (14,500); Wcrneria densa, Benth. (15-16,000). Leguminoste : — Adragalus gcmini- flurus, H.B.K. (14-15,000); * Lupiimts microphi/lliis, Desv. (14,500); Lupinus sp. (14-15,000); * L. ni(hi,j,-nas, H. k B. (15,000). Geraniaceie : — ffcram'wm sp. (14,500). Malvacea' : — Malvastnim phyllanlhos, A.sa Gray (15-15,500); * M. Pi- ehinchense, Asa Gray (15-16,000); Malvastrum sp. (15,000). Carophyllaceae : — * Gcmstiimi sp. (14-15,000). Cruciferie :=^Z))-rt6« oJoiwto, Benth. (14-15,000); * I), ardioidcs, H.B.K. (15-16,000) ; Draba sp. (15-16,000) ; D. imbricala, C. A. lley. (15-16,000). Ranunculacene : — Panunculus Peruvianus, Pers. (14-15,000). - For fuel at our camji on Antisana (and at the higher ones generally) we depended principally upon Lycupodium Saururus, L., and Loricaria fcrruginca, 200 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. The Beetles that were olitaiued in the neighhmirhuod iit tlie Hacienda were mostly new to iis at the tinie.^ Diptera were represented liy ahdut half a dozen species, and several hynienop- terous insects (including Ichneuvionidce) attained their greatest altitude here. For the reception of a slender Bug that we cap- tured, Mr. Distant has erected the genus Ncomiris. Of Butterflies we saw (inly fiau' species, three of which {Lymanopochi icncr, Hew., Lycana kod, Druce, and Fieris cran- thodicc, Lucas) are amongst the most connnon and must wiiU'ly distributed in Ecuadoi' ; hut the fourth, a small Colias taken in the immediate vicinity of our camp, had not been .seen since we left • himborazo.- As we sat in the ^luaint little gallery of the Haci- liida after our return from Anti- sana, our poor, old, battered lantei'n again proved our best nocturnal collector, and attracted a numerous company of Moths, from which I secured seven species in aliout as many minutes.^ 0\\ the next day we turned our attention to Condors. In Pers. Dralias and M'ciniTias were aliuiiflaut and rami? in nsi'l'ully. It was, however, always difficult to obtain fuel, and a large part of the time of my assistants was usually occuiiicd in collecting the quantity necessary for cooking. At the higher camps, we could never afl'ord to have fires for the sake of warmth. ' Seven species were new to science, and are described in the Supplementary Appendix, namely, Ptcrosliehus [Agraphodcrus) Antlsancc, Bates (p. 10); P.{Agraph.) llodcs, Bates (p. 11) ; Colpodcs megacephalus. Bates (p. 1-3); C. altkola, Bates (p. 21); Bcmbidium fulvoclnctum, Bates (p. 22) ; Chirlpalpns Aiilimiia; Bates (ji. 27) ; and Silipus longicollls, Ollil! (p. 75). Several of tliese were discovered liy my assistants, who worked zealou.sly while I was incapacitated. - Described as Culias alllcola liy Messrs. Godman & Salvin, Siipp. Ajp.. ]>. 107. '■' Three belonging to the genera Cldarla, Darha, and ScordjilUi, and fdur otlier very distinct sjiecies which have not yet been identitied. CHAP. X. FLIGHTS OF THE IMAGINATION. 201 Aspects of Nature, vol. 2, p. 4, HumliDldt says tliis hivd often soared ovsv liis head " aljove all the suininits of the Andes " ; and at p. 41 of the same volume he observes " It is a remai'kal>le physiological phenomenon, that the same Ijird, which can fly in circles for hours in regions of the atmosphere so rarefied, should sometimes suddenly descend, as on the western declivity of the ^'olcano of Pichincha, to the sea -shore, thus passing rapidly through all gradations of climate." Mr. James Orton, late Pro- fessor of Xatural History in Vassar College, improves upon this, and states that the Condor " can dart in an instant from the dome of Chimborazo to the sultry coast of the I'acific." The shores of that Ocean are nowliere less than one hundred and twenty miles from the mountain ; and if my schoollioy readers will nniltiply sixty by si:x:ty, and then by one hundred and twenty, they will find the rate (in miles) per hour, at which the Condc.ir can fly, according to Professor Orton.' They will probably wonder at the keenness of eyesight which enabled him to trace this light- ning rapidity ; and will be disposed to enquire how he w^as ad\"ised of the arrival on the shores tif that sultry coast of the particular Condor which started from the frigid dome. As these flights of the imagination may lead some to suppose that the Condor has a very great range in altitiide on the Ecpiator ; that it liabitually soars at extraordinary elevations; and that it flies with immense rapidity, I \enture to gi\-e some of our own observations. A\nien we were upon Chimborazo, I was, at first, a little appre- Between Antisauilla and Pitiautura I also captured a species of Opisogonia ; and, ill the lower part of the Chillo basin, an AgroHs, Eupyra rcgalis, Her. Schf. (the most liandsome moth I saw in the interior of Ecuador), Sangaja necyria, Feld. k R. , and Seotosia duhifcrala, AValk. ' Professor Ortou, along with four others, travelled from Guayaquil to Quito in 1867, and thence down the Amazons to Para ; and subsequently wrote a book entitled The Andes and the Amazon. This jouniey "was made under the auspices of the Smithsonian Institution." The quotation is from p. 106 of the English edition, published by S. Low, Son and Marston, 1870. 2d 202 TRAVSLS AMOXGST THE GREAT AXDES. chap. x. hensive that we might attract the attention of these formidalile birds. They were imnierous round aliout the mountain. AMien tlie atmosphere permitted us to look below, we commonly saw a dozen on the wing at the same time. They were seen daily, and it was their ordinary and everyday habit to sail to and fro at a moderate elevation above the ground they weie watching, where there were cattle and sheep. On no single occasion did we see a Condor rise so high as the Second Camp (16,660 feet), nor, I think, approach within a thousand feet of its le^'el. Condors were very nmnerous upon the lower slopes of Anti- sana. A score or more eimtinually hovered over the pastures, keeping ordinarily about 1500 feet from the ground — an elevation which they have no do\ibt learned by experience is sufficient for practical purposes. They did not 'dart' upwards or downwards, l>ut rose rather shjwly ; and, when they had attained tlieir usual height, maintained themselves at it by nearly imperceptilile move- ments of the wings, and floated, balancing them.selves in the air, turning to this or that side, gradually descending ; and then, by a few leisurely strokes, regained their former level ; continuing to float and circle in this manner by the hour together. We did not either when upon or in the neighbourhood of the summits of Chimborazo and Antisana, or near the summits of any other mountain, see a Condor in our vicinity ujion a single occa- sion, and I tliink never olisei'ved one so high as 16,000 feet. I believe Humljoldt to have been mistaken in supposing that he often saw the bird soaring above all the summits of the Andes. Any one, however skilled in judging distances, may be decei\'ed in such a matter. In the accompanying diagram, let H stand for Hacienda; S for the summit of Antisana; the line WR indicate the level of our camp ; and A, B, a pair of Condors, hovering over the lower slopes. An obser\'er at H might natm'ally suppose the liirds to be higher than the sunnnit, thougii to another at w it would Ije apparent that they were below his level. "While there may, possibly, be occasions when the Eipiatorial Condor departs from its CHAP. X. RANGE OF THE CONIHJE. 203 usual I'imtiiie, 1 think sucli in.staiices must be rare; ami that the upper limit i.if its habitual range cannot lie higher than 16,000 feet. s 19,000 ~*-_^ 18,000 v^~----.„_ 17,000 ^ — -~.,^^ ~'-~-,^ ---., 16,000 ^w ^~'-^, -, '~~-. - R ^^\ ""a'--„>--„^ 15,000 ^ 1 14,000 ■ ~— .„^^ """--J'^-^ Though some of these birds were in captivity at Quito, we saw none at liberty so low as 9000 feet, and were unable to learn that they ever visited the sea. ilr. .T. S. "Wilson, who had lived for twenty -five years in Ecuador, and passed the greater part of that time upon the coast, told me that he had never known one to come down to the plains, or heard of such an occurrence. I imagine, therefore, that the E(puitorial (undor very seldom descends to the Pacific. It seems, indeed, probable that it never does so. It is said that those which are despatched (in confine- ment) from the interior to the coast iuvarialily die before reaching (iuayacpiil.' Yet it is an undoubted fact that Condors frequent ihe sea-shi.ire in nmre southern parts of .South America. Whether the same individual birds also soar to great heights, and are .speci- lically the same as the Condor of the Equator, are questions that i am unable to answer-. If there are no marked points of difler- ence between them, it will be ascertained that this .species has a range in altitude of about 16,000 feet (not in any one country, but .spread over thii'ty degrees of latitude) and this is perhaps the greatest that is possessed by any liird. i)n the few iiccasions upon which we were approached by Ccindurs in a menacing manner, we liecame aware of their presence ' Tliis hapiicneil to some wliicli were .sunt liy Baron Gabriel de Gunzbiu'g from Quito to Guayaiiuil, while I was iu Ecuador. 204 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chai>. x. from their shadows being east upon us by a nearly vei'tieal suii. They never came near when the sun was concealed, and if they hovered in our neighl.)iiurli0(,id they alwa}'s kept the sun at their backs. This cannot be their invariable habit in a country where the sun is so often invisible, though possibly it is adopted when- ever there is a chance, and the motive is obvious. The objects to be attacked are dazzled liy the sun's rays, while the assailants are able to examine their brilliantly -lighted, intended \'ictims at their ease, whose eyes are picked out at the earliest opportunity, and are thus rendered completely defenceless. The herdsmen on Antisana had lifelong familiarity with the Condor, and did Udt stand in awe of it. They told me that the bu-d was paiticularly addicted to old horse and young calf, and might, after feeding, be easily caught with the lasso. Senor Eebolledo said that it would be a mercy to slaughter some of his woi'u-out steeds, and one was killed and laid out in order that his people might display their dexterit\-. We all descended t(j Antisanilla on the afternoon of IMarch 11, and the baggage went on the next morning to I'inantura : ' while I was taken to a neighbouring valley to see how wild cattle were captured, and after witnessing some clever hoi'seman- ship was led a mile or two towards the south. The slaughtered horse had been laid out on liigli ground, in a hollow surrounded by little knolls ; and watchers, posted in concealment, counted the comi^any as it assembiled. A scout stopped us while still a mile away, saying that the feast had scarcely commenced, although eighteen Condors had arrived, and he kept us lying for sevei'al ' The following times were oceupied between the i>l.ace.s whieh have been named in this Chapter. Quito to top of Puengasi ridge, 75 min. ; thence to the commence- ment of the fiat ground on the other side, 1 h. 55 rain. There was a good made road so far. Hacienda Colegio to Pintac, 4 hours ; Pintac to Hacienda of Pinantura, 2 h. 25 min.; Pinantura to Hacienda of Antisanilla, 4 h. 15 min.; Antisanilla to Hacienda of Antisana, 3 h. 5 min. (without the baggage train). Hacienda of Antisana to Antisanilla, 2 li. 56 min. (with the baggage). Antisanilla to I'inantura, 2 h. 30 min. (without the baggage). I ( \\{\V ■THEV DASHED IN AMONGST THEM AND THREW THEIR LASSOS, CHAP. X. mnr to catch a condor. 205 hours hiiklt'ii in the gras.s, while this great, solemn assembly. sat watching the dead liorse. ( )ur time being exhausted, we stalked up to within two hundred yards, and then nrounted, without uttering a word, expecting every moment that we should be perceived. But the birds sat still as mutes, out of sight in the hollow : and we ci'ept nearer, witli the herdsmen leading, and on the signal being given they dashed in and threw their lassos, and all the eigliteen Condors flew away,^ — scared and hurriedly, yet without the lightning rapidity that is attributed to them by Professor Orton. From Pinantura, I despatched the baggage to Quito in charge of the Carrels, and paid a visit to the cotton factory at Chillo, accompanied by Mr. Yerity." The miU was 193 feet long, in the form of the letter H, — the legs being one stoi-ey and the line joining them two storeys high. The interior was made up of four large rooms (card -room, spinning -room, weaving -room; etc.), each aljout 80 feet long and 24 feet wide. They were ginning their own cotton with gins made liy I'latt iif Oldham, and producing calico and tliread. Sixty hands were employed — ■ entirely Indians — working sLxty hours per week. Each family had a house rent-free, with about an acre and a half of ground attached, ami all kept pigs and fowls, wliile some had as many as six or eight cows and oxen. Tlie whole of the machinery came from Lancashire, and was l)eing worked by a turbine. This ' This business was spoiled by waut of atteutiou to orders. Tlie liorse should have been killed on the 11th, and the job was put off until manana. AVe found that the Condors had hardly eaten anything. - I met Senor Carlos Aguirre at Chillo ; and, cougratulatiug him upon his valuable observations in tlie Comptes Mendtis, expressed surprise that he should have isolated himself for so long a time, at such a dismal place, in the service of science. Senor Aguirre informed nie that the observations were not made by himself, but by a young Ecuadorian whom he deputed to do the work. Some weeks later, I paid another visit to Chillo, and was agaiu unable to fix its position. It should come somewhere on my map between the words Pasochoa and Hac. Colegio. The height of Chillo, according to Humboldt, is S576 feet above the level of the sea. 206 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. x. mill was in ctnistant and iJi'utitable euipluyuieiit, scarcely alile to keep pace with the clemaiid fur its productions. The yaru was all huught up direct hy Indians and woven liy them into ponchos. The excellent order and cleanliness of the establish- ment, with the contented aspect of the people, were a most agreeable surprise, and said much for its Manager, JMr. Daniel Slater, who was the only foreigner employed. Daylight had long departed when we set out to recross the Puengasi ridge to the Capital. It was near midnight when we arrived at the hotel, and except for Verity's familiarity with the place there would have been some difficulty in finding it, for Quito is lighted very economically. The law is that every householder must put a lighted candle at dusk in front of his dwelling. The law does not concern itself with the length of the candle, and h(.iuseholders think that the fag-ends of tallow dips are best suited for the purpose. Hence, at an eaily houi- of the night, the city is in total darkness. SNOW-SPECTACLES. nCHINCHA, FROM MACHACHI. CHAPTER XL UPON A\ ASCENT OF PICHIXCHA. Ox my return to Quito I t'omid Jeau-Aiitoine was indisposed. Externally, there did not seem to he much the matter witli him. He said that his complaint was an infernal one, and that liis blood had heen turned sour Ijy the crevasse episode. This dangerous malady, however, yielded to tlie benign influence of the universal remedy (see p. 50), and in a short time lie declared himself fit for active ser^■ice. There was something else, too, calculated to .sour the temper. The stench of the putrid o.v- cheek pervaded everything, and each day the Carrels took a load of foul tins down to the Machangara (a rivulet that runs through Quito) to try to rid tliem of the abominalile odour by scouring them bright with sand; a very mean and menial occupation — almost as l)ad as canying liome 208 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xi. washing for a Cliinainan, wiiieli on the Pacific Coast is considered the lowest depth of degradation that can befall a Ininian lieing. Before proceeding to the north, we made an excnrsion to the top of Pichinclia. So far as extent is concerned, this is an im- portant monntain. The part of it that is 10,000 or more feet above the level of the sea is quite fifteen miles from North to South, and its sunniiit rises 6000 feet above Quito. Yet there is little about it of a thorougldy mountainous character. It is composed principally of undnlating, gi'assy slopes, over which one can ride higher than 14,000 feet. It is impossilile to feel great respect for an eminence that can be climbed on doid-cey-liack, and the truth is that the ascent of Pichinclia is scarcely more arduous than that of the Eggischorn. We left Quito on the 21st of March, at 7.55 a.m., witli a team of seven animals and three aiiieros ; passed to the west of tlie Panecillo (by the road shewn on the Plan) through the village of Magdalena, and (leaving Chillogallo on the left ^) commenced to mount the slopes of Pichinclia; going at first over a small col, and descending on tlie village of Lloa, then ascending through meadows, followed by a considerable stretch of wood. In an unctuous rut between walls of earth, one of our mules floundered and fell with its legs doubled underneath ; and our cliief arriero — a Chillogallo man — after a few feeble efforts, would liave aban- doned it on the spot. Then we experienced the usual afternoon shower-bath, and, getting into the clouds, became perplexed as to our whereabouts. Camped at 4 p.iii.^ in sleet and drizzle, unable to see a hundred yards in any direction, and .sent the animals and natives back to Lloa. At night, when the atmosphere cleared, it was seen that we liad camped about midway between the two peaks of I'icliincha, ^ The village of Chillogallo is principally occupied by an'ieros. It is seldom possible to obtain horses or mules in Quito itself. If wanted, tlicy have to lie procured from Chillogallo. - The height of this eamp was 11,007 feet above the sea. CH.\r. XI. SECOND CAMP ON PICHINGHA. 209 which we conjectured were tliose that are called Lluagua and IIucu.^ Although there are numer(jus allusions iu the works of previous writers to these sunnnits and to the craters of ricliincha, and we had met various persons in Quito who claimed to ha\'e visited the craters (for it was said there were several), I was unable to tell from anything that had been said or heard what was tlie relative positii:in of the snuuuits," oi' where the craters were located ; and when these two peaks made their appearance we were not certain which of the two was the higher. The right hand or eastein one appeared to be the lower and the easier to ascend, and I sent Louis to tackle it, while .Tea.n-xVntnine and Verity went to pay their attentions to the other. During their absence I mounted to the depression in the ridge connecting the two peaks, or ensillada as it is termed," and foiuid that iiu the otlier side it descended very steeply. So far as mist woidd permit one to see, this was the head of an ordinary mount- ain valley. I awaited the return of my people, and, as their reports agreed that the western peak was the higher, shifted onr camp in the afternoon up to a soi't of ca\'e that had been dis- co\ered by Jeau-Antoine,* a convenient place (where some cavities iu the lava were protected by overhanging masses) roonry enough to let each one select a nook for himself; and my assistants, con- sequently, were able to snore ad lihituin, without ha\'ing their ribs poked with an ice-axe. From this refuge, which was just ' According to Dr. M. Villavicencio, Rucu-Picliinelia means old Picliiuclia, and Guagua-Picliiiiclia means young or child Picliiuclia. From this it would apjicar that, traditionally, the highest point is of less age than the lower one. - Rucu is said to be the most eastern one. Besides these two peaks, others are sometimes referred to. I saw ouly two. ' There are many ensi/ladas in Ecuador. The term is the eiiuivaleiit of ' saddle,' as used in the Alps. * By taking a more circuitous route, mules might have Iieeu Ijrought to tlii.s- place, 14,992 feet above the level of the sea. Three hundred feet above it I found the minute mushroom {CaiUharcUus) which has been described in the Juurno.l of Botany, June 1S90, by .Messrs. Massee and Murray. This (15,-300 feet) was the greatest height at which Fuugi were obtained. 2 E 210 TRAVKLS AMUNGST THE GEEAT ANDES. chap. xi. a thousand feet below the top of Guagua-Pichincha, there was an extensive prospect to the south and east. We saw the summits of lUiniza and Corazon rising immediately over that of Ataeatzo ; ^ and Cotopaxi and Antisana (each nearly forty miles away) by moonlight." In the night I heard, at in-egular inter\'als, roars (occurring appai'ently at no great distance) exactly corresponding to the noise made by the escapes of steam from the crater of Cotopaxi. The mininuim temperature at night was 29° Faht. On the next morning (March 23) all four of us followed Jean- Antoine's track, and upon sti'lking the western ridge of Guagiia I found there was a very precipitous fall on the other (or northern) side, where the crater, presumably, was located. We crossed this ridge, and after descending about four hundred feet saw that we were in the valley that I had lo(.)ked down upon from the aisUlada. While the upper part of it was rock}-, precipitous, and liare, the slopes below wei-e covered with a good deal of Aegetation ; amongst which there was neither smoke, steam, fissures, nor anything that one would expect to see at the Ijiittom of the crater of a volcano which is said to ha\'e been recently in eruption. This however, no douljt, is « crater of I'ichincha.^ Its depth, reckiming from tlic highest point of the mountain, is probably not less than two thousand feet ; its breatlth is fully as much, and the length of the part we saw was at least a mile. It had none of the symmetry of the crater of Cotopaxi. The western extremity was clouded during the whole of our stay on the summit. ' The summits of tlie four mountains Illiniza, Corazon, Ataeatzo, and Picliiucha are nearly in a line ; that is to say, a line drawn from the former to the latter i)asscs almost exactly through the summits of the two others. From our second camp on Picliiucha I found that the toji of Corazon was 3° 15' more west tlian Ataeatzo, and Illiniza was 3° 45' more west than Corazon. - The large snow or glacier plateau on the north-east of Antisana appeared an important feature of that mountain, when seen from Pichinclia. ^ In a paper published at Chalons, in 1S5S, by the Society of Agriculture, Commerce, Arts and Sciences of the Deiiartment of the Marne, entitled Ascension du Pichmcha, M. Jules Rcniy refers to this valley when speaking of "the crater" ; and he states that it leads to another one, farther to the west, from whicli it is CHAP. XI. THE SUMMIT OF PICHINCHA. 2U 111 tlie view placed at the head of thi.s C!hapter, Giiagua- Pichincha is the little peak that is almost exactly in the centre of the engraving ; and the otlier one, a quarter of an inch on its right, is that which was ascended by Lonis Carrel. The bottom of the depression between the two is the ensUlada, and it was here I had my first view of this crater-valley. Subseqnently, by passing to tlie left and skirting the base of Gnagna-richinclia, the same vaUey was seen again. I tliink it is likely that others have acted similarly, and throngh not observing that they have looked down upon one and the same valley have made two craters out of one. "We then reasceiided ti) tlie arete of the ridge, ami tVilhjwed it until Jean-Antoine said that the top was reached. The rocks fell away in front, and there was no I'eason to douljt him ; but, while the barometer was being unpacked, some crags, a long way above, loomed througli the mist. " Carrel," I said, " if we are on the summit of Pichincha, ichat is that ? ' He was struck dumb for a time, and gasped " Why, I never saw that before 1 " We shut up tlie liarometer, and went on, and in half an hf)Ui' were really on the top of Pichincha. Nothing more need l)e said about the ascent than that it might be made alone, liy any moderately active lad. The right way up the final peak is by the ridge leading to the west, and it is probable tliat this route has Ijeen taken before, for on the other sides, although not iiiaccessilile, the last eight hundred feet are very steep. I found that the summit of Guagua-Pichincha was a ridge of Sfjiaiated liy a wall of rock. This statement must be made on the strength of information, for a farther crater evidently was not sceti by M. Remy. His companion Mr. Brenchley went to the bottom of the crater - valley by rolling head over heels, happily, without taking harm ; and set to work to examine ' a bed of sulphur and a fumarole ' that had been seen fiom above. Tlie following sentence contains the whole of the information that is given aliont them. "II n'y a ni feu ni laves de formation recente. " This paper was kindly communicated to me by M. Remy after my return to Europe ; and, having compared it with the several other accounts given of the craters of Pichincha, I have come to the conclusi(ui that their authors were gifted with nuich imafrination. 212 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT AKDES. chai-. xi. lava about one himdred and fifty paces long, mainly firm I'ock, thougli strewn with loose, decomposing Lloelcs, amongst which there were a numliei' of huiijis of pumice, ujj to a foot or rather more in diameter.^ Close to the very higliest point (15,918 feet)," ^ Professor Bouncy says : — "In the rock from the summit of Guagua-Pichinelia, the external surfaces have a sliglitly scoriaceous aspect ; and, where the liclien- growth is chipped away, are of a dull grey to rusty -brown colour. The fractured faces shew the matrix to lie of a dull, but not dark colour, in places slightly vesi- cular, tlie walls of the hollow's being coated with a pellicle of iron rust. In the matrix are scattered pretty thickly whitish felspar crystals, not generally exceeding 0'2 inch in diameter, and granules of a black mineral, less than 0'125 inch in diameter. . . The rock is a hornblende -andesite." The specimen "from the highest point of Rucu-richincha " (the peak ascended by Louis Carrel is presumably Eucu) " is a comijact grey rock, containing scattered crystals of a glassy felspar uji to about 0'2 inch in diameter, and smaller specks of a black pyi'oxenic mineral. . . Grains of magnetite occur. . . Tlie matrix is often darkened by specks of kaolin and fen'ite. . . The rock is a hyperstheni- ferous augite-andesite. " — Proe. Royal Soc, Jan. 31, 1884. - At 11.15 a.m., on March 23, the Mercurial Barometer, reduced to 32° Faht., read IG'974 inches, with air temperature 46' Faht. The 11 a.m. reading at Guayaquil (reduced to 32°) was 29-882 inches, air temperature 80° Faht. Messrs. Reiss and Stiibel give the height of 15,706 feet (4787 metres) for Guagua- and 15,542 feet (4737 metres) for that of Rucu-Picliincha. These elevations were determined by A, not by barometrical observations on the .summit. According to them, Guagua is the western and Kucu is the eastern summit. La Condamine, at p. 33 of his Journal i/ii Vuijaije, gives 2430 toises as the height of his "station on tlie highest point of Pichincha {station sur Ic plus liaut sommct dc Pilcliincha) "; and at p. 56 of his Mcsiirc dcs trois premiers Dcgris he gives the same amount (2430 toises) as the height of the eastern summit. As the highest summit of Pichincha is the western one, I feel somewhat perplexed. Humboldt makes various references in his works to Pichincha, and in such a way as to lead one to suppose that lie had been upon the very highest poiut of the mountain. I feel unable to say whether he did attain the highest point. At p. 28 of the section entitled Nivcllcment Baromitrique in his liccucil d'Obscn-ations Astro- nomiques, he gives 4854 metres as the height of Rueu-Pichinclui, "the most eastern of three rocky towers." This is equal to 15,925 English feet, which closely corre- sponds w-ith the height I found for Guagua-Pichineha. He further puzzles me by a footuote, at the beginning of which he states that Pichincha has four princijial summits, and .speaks of a Jifth one at the end ; and he completes my bewilder- ment by saying that M. dc la Condamine did not measure Rucu, although that gentleman gives 2430 toises as tlie height of the eastern summit, which all are agi-eed is Rucu-Pichiucha. CHAP. XI. RECURRING SPECIES. 213 a little pile of stones had evidently been put together liy the hand of man. Snow -beds were somewhat nnmerons in fissnres, yet the tup of tliis mountain scarcely touches the snow-line. The whole of the summit -ridge had an appearance of age, and l)ore a large quantity of lichens {Crijropliora sp., Lccidea sp., and Ncuropogon mcJax.anthus, Nyl.) ; and within fifty feet of the extreme top there was a large plant, with tliick, woolly leaves, and a nearly white, pendent, downy flower — I presume, a Culci- /iiim — which was one of those that constantly attracted attention by recurrence at particular altitudes.^ It made its appearance whenever we reached tlie heiglit nf 14,000 feet, and was never seen much Liwer. From its size and pi'omineut characters it was not readily o\"erlooked, and I cannot be far wrong in esti- mating that its range in altitude extends from about 13,500 to 16,000 feet aljove the level of the sea. Twenty -one species of Beetles were collected upon I'ichincha between the heights of 12,000-15,600 feet, belonging principally to the Carabidcc, Otiorrht/nchidw, and Curndionida'. The whole ai-e new to science. Some, lite the Astylus described by Mr. • Jorham, inhafiit the interior of Ecuador generally, and attain here the upper linnt (if their range. Their delight is in leaves and branches, and they cease to be seen when arborescent vegetation is left below. Eight species were found only on I'ichincha. The remainder were obtained on other mmuitains, either at similar, or at somewliat higher or lower elevations. Two of these (namely, Helicorrhynchus vidsus, Ollilf, and MacrojJS adoruiii, (JUiff)- were afterwards taken again, tme hundred miles away, at 16,000 feet on Cliimborazo.^ ' It was fouiiil also within a few feet of tlie extreme top of Corazou (15,871 feet). The specimens tliat we attempted to preserve turned out badly, and were thrown away. Several chimps of it were growing round about our second camp, and are shewn in the engraving facing page 209. - Figures of these are given in the Sappkmcnlarij Apjicndix on the Plate facing page 60, and upon page 72. ^ E.vcamples of ncurring species are mentioned in Cliapter XIX. 214 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GEE AT ANDES. chap. xi. The first competent naturalist who devotes his whole time to this mountain will reap a splendid harvest. After he has satiated himself with beetles and butterflies, he will be able to feast his eyes uprm the ruby and emerald lireasts, and cyanine tails, of the numerous humming-birds abounding upon it and in its neighbourhood, which include some of the most remarkable and beautiful forms that are known. The tiny Soldado (JIul- sant's Wood -star) barely three inches long, and the imt much larger Prelado {Myrtis fannycc, Less.) affect the plain of Tumbaco ; Ptcrophanes TcmmincJci, Boiss. (the largest Ecuadorian species, measuring nearly nine inches across its wings) is said to be limited to the foot of Corazon ; PctasojiJiora anais, Less., locally called 'the Eoyal Humming -Ijird,' is common in the basins of Quito and C'hillo ; and the long -tailed Gynanthus and Lcsbias ave diffused on the western side of the mountain generally. Not fewer than eight others, including the extraordinary ' Swortl-bill' (Docimastes cnsiferus, Boiss.),' and three 'Puff- legs,' are common on the moimtain itself. There is reason to believe tliat, when more attentif.m is paid to the habits and haliitats of these birds, it will be found that several at least of the species which are said to lie confined to particular localities will be discovered at other places at eipiivalent altitudes. Hunnuing-bii'ds in Ecuador are obtained througli tlie Indians. Lifnrmation as to localities is principally derived finui them, and prdliably is frequently misunderstood. So f;ir as it could lie done, I procui'ed the local names of the species wliich were olitained," and have bi'ought them together in the accompanying list, arranged according to the classification of tlie British Museum Guide to the Gould collection. ' In my siiecimen, the bill is three and a quarter inches long. - I am greatly indebted to Dr. P. L. Sclater, F.R.S., for naming tliis collec- tion. Several of tlie localities mentioned in the list, not visited by nie (S. Domingo, Nauegal, Mindo, Canzacoto, Gualea and Nono) will be found uu the Maldonado map. The valley of Chota (in the extreme north of Ecuador) is not given upon cither map. CHAT. XI. HUMMING-BIRDK ON PICHINCHA. 215 f^ C hJ ri g -S O Q-' ■i -^^ o i rf =1 "-3 8 1 S 5 8 ^ Q s >5 o &=< hj 5 ^ O r^ B d -a ^ — o o — " rt S <^ ■" "= !^ -S -3 c a i^ 2 3 2 r— Oi n H so - iC S O v; "^ O o •— _^ OJ J^ v^ ■- c ^ -=. - ^ ^ Ch Pi, a2 J H S -^ S 5 3 o " s j2 ■ ^ Ph > Ph a < a So s e < < a o r; ago £ o o o S -; •« . o - -- ^ O ,-: o -=1 ^^ d O pq c^ jj O SD O r— • 1-) s >^ -e '-^ . 3*^ Q S a ~ a ~ ^ ~ a, a p a a H c a o s fc. a •pa H r-: « ,5 ■^ 2 m S« 5 a S S 5 3 2 = !< h ^ S S O - c = <; E- -4 B o ^ 3 S! K . a W Ph O O Ph IS <; < a P- Ph K W H !:2 -< ^ H < >'. S < s; K sc K ^ a ;^1 J5 s 4 J ;» s S H u 3 [^ <; o ;£ t) ill hJ o P5 M ■< W W w W w o 216 TRAVELH AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xi. We got back to the secouci camp soon after mid -day; and, as there was no prospect of improvement in the weather, packed np and returned to (..(uito. It was now close upon Easter, and we could not leave again until Good Friday was over. Giacometti, on that day, at considerable trouble to himself, thouglitfully provided his guests with salt fish for dinner; and though this nauseous diet was eaten with meekness and resignation by all good Catliolics, one of the boarders — a Yankee Jew — protested, in language which would have been rough in the Western States, against the subtraction of his customary pound of flesh as a fi'aud on his stomach, and against the substitute as an insult to his religion. The next day we left Quito by the road to the North, on our way tij Cayambe, and did not return again to tlie Capital before the third of May. ON TH1£ KOAIJ CHAMl'IONS. CHAPTER XII. THE FIRST ASCEXT OF CAYAMBE. Two roads lead out of the northern end of Quito. One, passing to the east of tlie Observatory, descends tlirough a narrow gorge rather rapidly on to the Plain of Tunibaco, and is used by persons ''lAim to the village of the same name, to Pifo, or to Loo O ' ' I'apallacta. The other, on the west of the Observatory, is the road to the North, and it was this one we took on the 27th of March, on our way to the great Eqiuxtorial mountain Cayanibe. I had seen Cayainbe from the cone of Cotupaxi, and at Quito from the Panecillo, but these views were obtauied at too great distances (62 and 43 miles respectively) tp distinguish details ; and enquiries were made at Quito to learn the names of inliabited places, contiguous to the mountaiu, wliere informa- tion might be procured as to the best manner of approaching it. From Senor Carlos Aguirre I heard that one of the properties lielonging to his family, a large farm called Guachala, was situated 2 F 218 TRAVELS AMUN(JST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. sii. on its southern outskirts, and lie favoured me with a letter to his tenant. The village called Cayambe was tlie nearest place of any size to the iiKjuntain, and the only one where food was likely to be olitained. The pai'ty on this journey consisted of the two Carrels, Verity, and the principal arriero (Cevallos) we had taken several times before; who was assisted by a second nmle- driver of a jovial temperament, much given to strong waters, and l)y a very willing and pleasant-tempered native, David Beltran. These three men came from ]\Iachachi, and formed an excellent working team. Four lieasts were taken for riding, and four others for baggage. After proceeding a few miles from Quito, we quitted the main road/ and turned to the east, towards the Plain of Tumliaco, which was at a lower level, gently sloping towards the noith. It was on the eastern side of this (upon what they called the Plain of Yaroucpii) tlint La Condamine and his associates measm-ed their famous base-line in Oct.-Nov., 1736; and the little pyramid of Carabourou, marking its northern end, caught the eye, a glittering speck of light, as we approached the edge of the great Eavine or Quehrada - of Guallabamba.^ This immense chasm forms a boundary to Mojanda (also called Yana-urcu), a mountain which is seldom referi'ed to in geograph- ical works, although it rises to the respectable elevation of 14,000 feet, and covers, perhaps, a greater area than any other individual UKjuntain in Ecuador."* AVIule for the most part its ' This road to the North is a fairly good Iracl; not a metalled road. - Qucbrada is a word that i.s heard very often in Ecuador. A ditch is a quebrada, or an earthquake crack a few feet across, or a chasm more than 2000 feet deep, such as the great ravine of Guallnljamba. ^ Multitudes of lizards were seen in passing between Quito and tiuallabaniba. We secured several specimens of Lioccphalus trachyceplialus (A. Dum. ), and there were I think at least two species that we failed to catch. Compare this with the jiassage quoted at ]>. 176 from Mr. Hassaurek. ■* Its slopes on the south-west terminate at the Quebrada of Guallabaniba, and on the north extend almost as far as the town of Otovalo. CHAP. XII. THE QUEBEADA OF GUALLABAMBA. 219 slopes are not steep, the abruptness of its cliffs bordering the ([uebrada can hardly be exceeded ; and there is nothing elsewhere in the neighbourhood of Equatorial America ec^ualling the grandeur of this profound earthquake fissure.' Just where the ground commenced to fall steeply, I halted to examine the barometers, for tlie purpose of determining tlie depth of the ravine, and for reading the aneroids against the mercurial ; as this was a favour- able occasion for comparing the indications of the two classes of barometers. No reference having lieen made to the aneroids since p. 72, it may be supposed that they were put aside, and were neglected. This was not the case. Systematic comparison of the barometers was part of my daily routine, though regarded almost as waste of time: for it was difficult to see what advantage could be derived from employing instruments which all read lower than tlie truth, and diftered to a large extent one from another. The comparisons which were made since we left Chimborazo shewed that the index -errors of all the aneroids remained nearly constant at any given pressure ; and had a tendency to augment while ascending (that is, with pressure diminishing) and to lessen whilst descending (pressure increasing).- At Quito, on the 20th of March, the mean error of the whole amounted to -1'009 inches; that is to say, the mean of the whole of the aneroids indicated a pressure more than an inch too low at (^>uit(i. If this mean had been employed for determination iif altitude, in conjunction with the (iuayaquil observations, it would have made the height of the Capital above the level of tlie sea about 1400 feet in excess of the truth. Although it appeared to me that these aneroids were worth- less f(ir determination of elevation above the level of the sea, I had already remarked that their indicatiims often accorded ' A few remarlcs upon tliis and other queliradas are made in a later Chapter. - See the Table at the end of Appendix C, Riving the mean error of the aneroids. 220 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GBEAT ANDES. chap. xii. extremely well witli tliose of the mercuiial baiuuietui' when observing differences of level, whe7i the observations were made quickly, — that is to say, wlien only a short interval nf time elapsed Isetween the readings at the lower stations and the njjper ones, or between tlie npper and lower ones, as the case might be. At the Eavine of Guallabamba I expected to descend about 3000 feet ' in two hours, and looked fiirward with curiosity to see whether upon this large difference of level I should obser\'e the same satisfactory accordance between the aneroids and the mercurial barometer as had previously been noted upon minor ones. At the top of the descent, at mid -day, the reading of the mercurial barometer No. 558 (reduced to 32° Faht.) was 21-692 inches. The two aneroids I carried (marked a, b), at the same place and time, read 21-140 and 19-940 inches respectively. Aneroid A, thus, had an index -error of -0-552 inch, and B an index -error of -1-752 inches. At 2.30 p.m., on the bridge at the bottom of the ravine, the reading of the mercurial liarometer (red. to 32° Faht.) was 23-929 inches: of Aneroid a, 23-400 inches; and of Aneroid B, 22-200 inches. The increase in tlie pressure shewn by the three barometers, therefore, was Mercurial Barometer, No. 558 . . 2-237 inches. Aneroid A 2-260 „ Do. B 2-260 „ The result, although in one sense higlily satisfactory, was puzzling ; for here were two aneroids, one with an index -error of -0-552 of an inch, and the other with an error more than tluee times as large, each indicating precisely the same increase in pressure, and differing in the measurement from the mercurial barometer only to the extent of 0-023 of an inch (an error of a shade more than one per cent in the measurement). ^ From my baroiiiotiic observations, tlio ilcjitli of the ravine from the eommenee- ment of the descent to tlic toji of tlie liridge amounted to 2834 feet. Witli the addition of tlie jiart below the liridge, the total deiith is a little less than 3000 feet. CHAP. xir. EGCENTinCITIEfi OF THE ANEROIDS. 221 Or the matter may be put in the following way. "When we were at tlie bottiim of the ravine, and the mercurial barometer No. 558 read 23 '929 inches, the barometer at Guayaquil was standing at 29 '900 inches. The actual difference in the atmo- spheric pressure between the uppei' and lower station was there- fore 5'97l inches. Aneroid B, Imwcver, at tlie bottom of the ravine, read 22 '200 inches, and tlms made it appear that there was a difference of pressure of 7 "700 inches. The error therefore of B in a measurement of 5 "971 inches was 1"729 inches, or more tlian 28 ^jcr cent. Yet tiiis same instrument, it was seen just now, in a measurement of 2'2.'^i7 inches, differed only to tlie extent of 0'023 of an inch fr(im the mercurial barometer. Comparisons (if this nature were continued, though no more are i|Uoted in the course of my naiTative. I returned to England, and remained for several years, entirely unal)le to imderstand tills anomalous liehaviour.' We stopped for the night at the village of Guallabamba (7133 feet), a pleasant little place, with an agreeable tempera- ture,- end lowered in foliage, where we bought oranges shaken ' It .appcaved inexiiliealjle to several of the Icadinj; instrument -makers and meteorologists under wliose notice it was brouglit. The prominent manner in which it was referred to in a paper commiinieated to the Royal Geographical Society (see Froc. Roy. Gcorj. Soc, 1881, p. 450) also failed to draw elucidations from any one. I continued to investigate the matter ; and, after working during .several years in tabulating and comparing the original observations, sulisequently occupied several years more in e.xperimeuts in the workshop, with the results which will be found ill the pamphlet entitled How to use the Aneroid Barometer. See also Appendix C. As even a condensed summary of this investigation necessarily extends to considerable length, I have thought it best to issue it sejiarately from, though simultaneously with the present volume. - At 8 p.m., 67" Faht. Strangers seldom come lieie. Tlie natives said it was two years since they had seen a grlnr/o. The place was badly otf for food. There was of course no meat. Bread only came once a week from l,)uito. At the bottom of the Ravine of Guallabamba, at 2.30 p.m., temperature in the shade was 75'''5 Faht., and this was the higliest we experienced in the shade anywhere in tlie interior of Ecuador. 222 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xii. from the trees at the rate of four a penny ; and on the 28th left for Guachala, passing at mid -day the village of Cousobamba (about the same ele\-ation as Quito), where there was chicha, but no water. The track wound through a large diversity of scenery, sometimes amongst woods, or dipping into qiiebradas, and this must be one of the grandest rides in the universe when the surrounding mountain panorama is ^dsible. We arrived at Guachala,^ however, without having had a single glimpse of Cayambe ; and, finding that the tenant was absent, rode over the next morning to Cayambe village, in quest of information. I brought a letter of introduction to the Jefo- politico, and learnt that he was on the Plaza, engaged in an affair of impoi't- ance. He was surrounded by a large part of the male population, crowding together, jostling and pushing eacli other to get a good view of the lousiness which was being transacted. It was the concluding round of a cock-fight for the Championship of Cayambe, and when it was over the Jefo -politico had leisure to attend to me. He promised that a guide should be provided ; but, say what I wuuM, the conversation in\-arialjly bore rcmnd ' In the garden at tlie back of this establishment, before breakfast on the 29th, I collected fourteen species of bugs and beetles, eleven of which jirove to be new to science. The bushes were loaded with the Astyhis described by Mr. Gorham {Supp. App., pp. 52-3). 'Whilst engaged in this occupation, the sun came out (at 8 a.m.) brightly, and droi'e me into the house. This was the only occasion upon the whole joiu'ney that I felt the rays of the sun were dangerous. The people in general at Cayambe and Guachala seemed to me to have even lighter complexions than those at Quito, which imiilies that they do not feel the sun very often. Between Guallabamba and Guacluila I dismounted twice to secure fine beetles which were literally crossing our path, belonging to the Dynaslidcc. One of these is a known species {Hdcrogomphus Sourcicri, Guerin) ; for the reception of the other, Mr. Bates has instituted the genus Praogolofa (Supp. App., p. 34). The following times were occupied in going from the capital to Guachala. Quito to the top of the Quebrada of Guallabamba, 4 hours 50 min. ; descent to the bottom of the ravine (cutting the zigzags) 1 h. 35 min., those following the path took 2 hs. 30 min. ; bridge to the village of Guallabamba, 70 minutes. Guallabamba to Cousobamba, 3 hs. 20 min. ; thence to Guachala, 5 hours. CHAP. XII. EQUATORIAL SPOBTS. 223 to LMifk- fighting, wliicli in this region is con.sidered the most rational and delightful of all sports. He expressed incredulity when told that in England it \yas only enjoyed by the lower orders, though he would ha^'e readily believed that the Lord Chancellor comes down every morning to the Law Courts with a fighting -cock under each arm. " You surprise me," said the Jefo- politico, " fijr all the best cocks come from England." Three weeks later I passed two nights at this village, and found that to each pillar in the courtyard of my host's house a fighting -cock was tied. His champions passed their spare nmnients in attempts to carry on a desultory warfare; and, when night came, chased sleep away by screams of defiance. I growled to the schoolmaster that they disturbed the sacredness of midnight. " Oh," said he, " they always crow at the even hours " ; and it was the fact that they raised their voices at twelve, two, and four, and let one, three, and five slip liy un- noticed ! The Jefo -politico, Sefior Antonio Jarrin de Espinosa, was the owner of Cayambe moimtain, of five thousand head of cattle, and a man of large possessions ; and when he invited us to quit comfortable quarters at Gnachala, and to sleep at his Hacienda Cliuarpongo, I anticipated we were going to enjoy a rather good time, in a country house, suitable for a person of his distinction. Chuarpongo was on the outskirts of Cayambe, and looked down upon the Equatorial -soilage. The building was composed of little more than one room, which was filled with raw potatoes — if they liad been cooked it would have been all right. Mashed potatoes would make a nice bed, being of a plastic and accommodating nature; but these raw potatoes of Chuarpongo were uncompro- mising, and left a strong impression on both mind and body. 1 think it must be assumed, from the exceptional courtesy he shewed, Seiior Espinosa was unaware that we had to repose upon beds of raw potatoes. The guide he provided was himself. He arrived at 4 a.m., on the ;Jlst of March, at Chuarpongo, with 224 TRAVELS AMUNGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xii. two of his major -doinos (and a third one from a neighljoiiring estate), acc(.)mp;uiied Ijy five fine deerliounds ; and led lis in the darkness a long way east -south -east, before beginning to approach the summit of our mountain.^ At aljout 8 a.m., at a bend of ' the Monk's "N^alley,' they stopped to encpiire where I wished to arrive, and upon indicating a rocky point, at the edge of the glaciers underneath the summit, they proceeded up the ridge dividing the Monk's Valley from anothei' on its south-east." At 10.15, on coming to the point where the heads of these two valleys met, we halted for a meal, with the suu shining brilliantly. While resting on the grass, a great shadow suddenly appeared in our midst, and made us all alive. A Condor had dropped down, and was hovering with outstretched wings about five -and - twenty yards above. The deerhounds ran in, cowering with terror, and casting furtive glances at the liuge bird, whilst pressing against us, tremliling with fear. It was remarkable to see the fright that possessed these big dogs, when they were in perfect security amongst our large party. Shouts drove the assailant away, and presently we proceeded.^ Tlie course now led up very steep ground, that formed a step to another valley above, and the passage of tliis part occupied some length of time, as the animals had to be unloaded. Wlien all were got to the top, Jean-Antoine was missing,'* nor ' Our courses during the remainder of this Chapter and for Chapter XIII. can he followed on the inset map of part of Cayambe that is given at tlic top of the large, general route map. - On this part of the way we passed several Falcons. One, sitting on a rock about fifty feet ofl" would not fly away when shouted to. ^ This bird had been seen hovering about for some time. It seemed to iliv]> down upon us, and for an instant came within twenty yards. The largest Ecuadorian Condor of which I have heard is said to have measured 10 feet 6 iu. from tip to tip of the wings. Most of those we saw on Antisana and elsewhere would not I think have measured so much as nine feet. * I had despatched liini in advance (so that the barometer should not be im- perilled by the floundering of tlie animals) with instructions to wait for us above. CHAP. XII. UNPREMEDITATED EXPLORATIONS. 225 could any one tell where he was. Halting the cithers, and handing all the things I usually caiiied over to Louis in order to move quickly, I scrambled a couple of hundred feet up the ridge on the northern side of the valley, and descried the Chief of the Staff about half-a-mile ahead, picking his way through some swampy ground. Just then a deer galloped down the cliff; the hounds went oft' in hot pursuit, and holding us entranced by their splendid boimds down break-neck rocks gave the en-ant man a still longer start. When they came liack, discomfited and panting, we went on, and for a time held parallel courses — the others down below on the flat floor of the valley, and I on the top of the ridge, so close that we could keep up conversation. Presently they gilt out cjf sight and hearing. I continued, however, to progress along the arek, intending to rejoin them when the clift's between us became less precipitous. At mid -day clouds formed about o\ir neighl.iourhood. I had arrived close above the spot where we were to have encamped, but could not see twenty yards, or get a response to continual whistling and shouting. Aljout this time I was joined by one of the hounds, who seemed to share my perplexity, and ran about in all directions, stopping to listen. I then bore round to the south, and finding no track concluded that the others must have passed over rock, and left no trace ; so proceeded higher up, and doubled back, purposely selecting such gi-ound as would allow a good track to be made on it. I'resently we came to some liits of climbing which were too steep for the dog, and, whilst rendering him assistance, a few specks of snow commenced to fall. They quickly changed to flakes ; in a few minutes there was a Ijlinding snow-storm, and the track was com- pletely obliterated. I continued to search for two hours more, and then considered it was time to attend to my own safety. We were nearly 10,000 feet high ; without compass or mstru- meuts, food, protection or the means of making a fire, for Louis 2g 226 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xii. had taken everything. We went down, regardless of direction, solely occupied with the view of getting to a lower level. Any valley on this side (jf the mountain, if followed to its extremity, would bring one on to the plain of Cayambe. At about 4 p.m., getting out of cloud-land, we came upon the head of an unknown valley, which was joined some distance off by another, each with its own little torrent. There was a slope of sand, perhaps eight hundred feet high, between us and the nearest stream, and leaving a track on it that could be seen a mile away I marched across to the right bank of the valley, but had to come back again, as my four-footed friend stopped howling on the l.uink, refusing to take to the water. I carried the big baby across in my arms. The streams were uufordable when united, and presently fell into a wall -sided ra\'ine with impassable cliffs on the left Ijank. The opposite slopes, being fissured by earthquake- cracks, were nearly as impracticable; and we were forced to keep to the bottom, in morass, covered with reeds ; and for two hours moi'e I waded through slime, clutching the stems, not daring to leave go, lest I should be swallowed up. It was nearly dark when we escaped from this horrible bog, and came upon steeply descending ground ; where I descried a little thicket, the first semblance of shelter that had been seen. Preoccupied in finding a refuge of any sort, I did not at first notice that we had hit upon a lair, or sleeping -place, of some of the cattle who from time to time escape to the mountains from the tyranny of man. We had been warned to a^'oid them, as they pay no regard to any one, and become savage and dangerous wild -beasts, with marvellous agility. The idea that several might bounce in, inclined to resent this unauthorized occupation of their brush -wood bed, gave something to think about through the eleven hours of darkness. We left the lair at earliest dawn, and, after descending an abrupt step, found that the lower part of the valley was densely wooded. I spied the remains of a track, a very old one, evidently CHAP. XII. INDIAN HOSPITALITY. 227 unused for a Icing time, overgrown and oliliterated in many places, or closed by interlaced branches. The dog crept under- neath without much trouble, and found the way instinctively ; whilst I was driven to make long detours, and several times should have lost myself had not the sagacious animal stood on the track and waited, or come and led me back. Much sooner than I anticipated, sky became visible through openings in the branches, and about 7.30 a.m. we suddenly emerged on to the open ; and at the foot of a grassy hill saw a little Indian hut, emitting lilue smoke, curling upwards in front of the plain, with a man and woman outside busy at their morning work. I smelt breakfast, and pounced down on them like a hawk. " Have you locro ? " " Yes, Sefior." " Give me some locro " (said very peremptorily). "That I will, Sefior" (said heartily), and he brought out a basonful at once, with another for the dog, and we all sat outside in the sunshine eating potato -soup together. They were an old, homely couple, unencumbered either by bash- fulness or servility. He pressed us to take more, and came down the river's side until the outlying houses of the village were seen, and then with a polite salutation was about to take leave ; but I detained him, and, pouring my loose money into his hand, left ]\ini in stupefied adoration, uncertain whether he had seen a vision or entertained a gringo. When I reappeared soon after 9 a.m. on the 1st of April at tlie liouse of the Jefo- politico, a messenger was despatched to advise the others; and Senor Espinosa, Jean-Antoine, and Verity arrived in the course of the afternoon, with congratulations upon my safe return from this circular tour. The day was too for advanced to make another start for tlie camp. Having time on our hands, we wandei'ed alxiut the village, and formed the acquaintance of priest and schoolmaster; and discovered that one could buy two-pennyworth of liread at a time, and no more. If you want a larger quantity, you may buy another medioworth, and so on, but on no account will a shilling's wortli be sold at 228 TRAVEl.fi AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xii. once. Later on, attracted by the .sound of mnsic, we caiue upon a minstrel, with upcast eyes, appealing to hi.s star. Then tliere was a flash, and a ipiii'kly fillnwing splash, for she suddenly appeared on the balcony, to damp his ardour, according to the manner of the country ; and made us go back, wonder- ing at the ways of women, — resolved ne^'er to play a guitar under a first-floor at C'ayambe. Our mountain looked im- mense from the village, and we saw on the 2nd of April that, like Antisana, its upper .■:l-4000 feet was almost com- pletely buried under snow and glacier. On the west, its slopes die out very gradually on the Plain of C'ayambe,^ and upon tliis side they do not Ijecome steep until one gets liigher tlian 13,000 feet. On the sduth the angles are more alirupt, and upon its eastern side the mountain is precipi- tous. It was formei'ly sup- posed to be the only great mountain, anywhere in the World, immediately uimn tlie Equator, and it has become improbable that a loftier one will ever be discovered exactly on tlie Line. ^ The Pleiin of Cayaiiibf is bmnidetl by Cayambe, Inibabura, and J[ojaiula. Its drainage falls into the Riu de Guallalianiba, and Ijy tlie Esnieraldas into the Pacific. INGRATITUDE. THEY PROWLED AROUND US AT NIGHT, AND LEFT THEIR FOOT-PRINTS IN THE SNOW." CHAP. XII. THE EfiPINOSA GLACIER. 229 Leaving Verity lichiiul tn fdiitimu' Imying two-pennyworths of lireaii until he had accnnuilated a .saekt'ul, I went up to the camp, and was received with open arms, as one risen from the dead. Tlie ten men searched until they found my track, and divining my intentions had given me up for lost. They passed the night of the 31st of March in lamentations, for the "White ^'alley down which I had made my way, Senor Espinosa told them, was pathl&ss, inaccessible, and full of wild beasts. He said it was useless to attempt to follow, and the thing to do was to return to the village, t(i organize a searcli f(jr my bones. Pumas, indeed, were rather numerous in this neigh boui-hood. A young horse belonging to Senor Espinosa had just been killed by one, and an Indian we passed reported that he had noticed another roving about. Yet we never saw any, although tliey prowled ai'ound us at night, and left their footprints in the snow. The camp (14,762 feet) was established at the eastern end of an upper prolongation of the Monk's Valley, and was com- manded on the north by the precipitous cliffs along which I had gone. On the east (that is to say, at the head of the valley) there was a ridge descending a little to the west of south from a secondary peak of Cayarabe, and on the eastern side of this there was a large glacier — invisible alike from our camp and from the village — which my people had discovered during my absence. This glacier was one of the finest we found in Ecuador, having its birth in the snows at the upper part of the mountain, and a length of several miles after it streamed away from the central reservoir. The part nearest to the camp descended steeply, in what is termed an ice-fall. There were no moraines nor even stray rocks upon it, though there were two small, lateral moraines upon its western side, which shewed that rocks had risen above the ice in former times, and that the glacier had been larger. Our course led alongside and partly over these moraines to the tiiji of the secondary peak of which I have already spoken, tliat iuts cmt from Cavandie like llie Aiiruille du Gouter on 230 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xii. Mont Blanc, and affords a perfect stand -point for studying the western side of the mountain. Its position is sufficiently indi- cated by saying that it is at the liead of the Monk's Valley and the Wliite Valley; and it cannot be mistaken if it is added that it lies south-west of the highest point of Cayambe, and is elevated 16,164 feet above the sea.' The extreme top of this peak was flat, and tlie lava in situ was strewn with small pieces of pimiice and a number of varieties of other lavas" (all, however, having a strong family resemblance to each other) which doubtless were morainic matter, and had been deposited there when the contiguous glacier i-ose to a higher level. Growing amongst them, there was a quantity of Andrecea striata, Mitt., a moss of unattractive character, which seemed to thrive in most exposed positions, and grew both on naked lavas, amongst snow, or in damp volcanic ash.^ ^ On April 3, at 11 a.m., the mercurial barometer No. 558 (reduced to 32° Falit.) read 16'924 inches, air temperature 55° Faht. The 11 a.m. reading at Guayaquil, reduced to 32° Faht., was 29'915 inches, air temp. 79° Falit. - "The rocks of Cayambe are very uniform in character, and of the same general type as those of Chimborazo, Antisana (in part), and Pichincha (in part). They are andesites, but as they contain hornblende and augite, as well as mica, it is difficult to give them a distinctive name. . . Perhaps it is more appropriate to classify these rocks with the augite - andesites, using the word hornhlcndic as a qualifying epithet, except in the case of the second specimen described, which niiuht perhaps be termed a mica-andesite." — Proc. Royal Soc, June 19, 1884. ' It had been already collected around the Second Camp on Chimborazo, upon the summit of Corazon, and had been seen in the neighbourhood of the snow -line generally. In the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society for 1861, at pp. 184-190, there is an account of a journey made by the late Dr. AVilliam Jameson, of Quito, to Ca3'ambe in 1859. He visited the lower slopes of the northern side of the mountain. Botany was his principal object, and a list is given of seventy -eight siiecics of plants that he collected between the height of 10,000 feet and the neighbourhood of the snow -line. In consequence of Dr. Jameson's labours, I did not devote any time to the flora of Cayambe. The altitudes given in this paper are generally too high. For Cayambe village he quotes 9724 feet. According to my observations it is 9323 feet above the sea. Messrs. Eeiss & Stiibel say 9357 feet. CHAP. xii. ROUTE UP CAYAMBE. 231 I called this peak the Poiute Jariiii, and the glaeiei' the Espinosa Glacier, aftei- their proprietor. Cayaiiibe culuiiuates in three domes or bosses, all completely enveloped Ijy snow -covered glacier. The only ^•isible rock high up on the western side is a small clift', about 800 feet below the northern of these three summits, wjiich is capped by a vertical section of ice, similar to that shewn in the plate facing p. 76. From examination of this mountain at great distances, it was known that the central boss was the highest. It bore north-east from the Pointe Jarrin, and appeared to be more or less accessible, though decorated at its crest with overhanging cornices and surrounded by large crevasses. The course agreed upon was 20' East of North for the first part of the way o^'er the lower glacier ; with the intention of bearing round to the south, and steering directly for the summit, after having got clear of the fissures at the head of the ice -fall. To save time on the following day, I caused steps to be cut up the rounded slopes of the glacier where they pressed against the Poiute Jarrin, and in the course of the afternoon advanced food and instruments to the edge of the ice. On the 4th of April we left the tent at 4.40 a.m., and walked Ijy lantern-light as far as the top of the Pointe Jarrin. The morning was fine and clear, and the \\e\\ at this time embraced almost all of the mountains which have hitherto been enumerated.^ After traversing some fiat and easy glacier, we ' On the 6th of April I again ascended the Pointe Jarrin, and was more fortunate than usual in getting angles for position. I observed the bearings on this occasion of Mojanda, Imbabma, Cotocaehi, Pichincha, Ataeatzo, Corazon, Illiniza, Cotopaxi, and Antisaua. Ruminahui, Pasoehoa, and Sincholagua were clouded, and Cayambe shut out the whole of the view to the east. The two peaks of Illiniza, 72 to 73 miles awa}-, could be readily distinguished, and at this distance were 0° 45' apart. Antisana (more than 40 miles away) looked huge, and we again saw the large, snowy shoulder on its north-east. Below this, there was a wonderfully level ridge running out in the same direction, jierhaps foiu- or live miles farther. After that, the slopes apjieared to descend towards the east with great rapiditj-. 232 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xii. became involved in a complicated maze of snow -covered crevasses at the head of the ice -fall of the Espinosa Glacier, which had to be threaded cautiously. This was followed Ijy moderately- inclined slopes, and we then entered upon a large plain that took three-quarters of an hour of steady going to cross. This we called the Grand Plateau. Afterwards the slopes became steeper, with occasional large open crevasses and inimerous con- cealed ones, and were rapid near the top, wliicli was gained soon after 10 o'clock in the morning. Early in the day mists began to form and gather beneath us, and we pushed on to endeavour to lia\'e a Aiew froiu the summit. At 9.30 a.m., when quite a short distance below the highest point, we were well seen by a crowd assembled on the Plaza of the village ; Init in a few minutes moi'e the clouds caught us up, and we did not get out of them until tlie close of the day. The true summit of Cayambe is a ridge, running north and south, entirely covered by glacier. Its height (deduced from the mean of two readings of tlie mercurial barometer at 10.45 and 11 a.m.) is 19,186 feet, and this mountain is therefore the fourth in rank of the Great Andes of the Equator.^ Of the other two summits the northern one is the liioher, and it is well - nigh inaccessible, being almost surr(.iunded by gigantic crevasses, and surmounted by tufted cornices. The central or true sununit pre- sented fewer difficulties, though it was not altogether easy of access. It was a stroke of good fortune to find a snow -bridge across the highest crevasse, just under the jjlace wheie there was a break in the coronal cornice. Glacier departs in all directions from the siunmit of Cayambe ' The mean of these two readings (reduced to 32° Falit.) was 14 •983 inches. The 11 a.m. reading at Guayaquil (red. to 32° F. ) was 29"915 inches, air tempera- ture 79° Faht. At some futui'e date it may perhaps appear that Cayambe is third, and that Anti.sana is the fourth in rank. Tlicre is, I imagine, a \'cry sHght difl'erence iu tlie elevation of these two mountains. ClIAl". XII. ON THE SUMMIT OF CAYAMBE. 233 CAYAMBE (l9,lS6 feet), FROM THE WEST. in a manner tliat i.s seldDni seen on numntain-tops. From the huge schninds that surrounded the three bosses of the suniniit-ridge, on all sides, I tliink that tiiere are at no great depth beneath tlie surface several pinnacles like those which form the summits of Siucholagua and Illiniza. By persons who are familiar with glacier-clad eminences it will be apprehended without saying that a slight diminution in tlie thickness of the superincumljent ice may cause the apex of tliis mountain to become inaccessible. During the 83 minutes we remained (= S:!! feet per hour).^ Some may say this is not ;i fast rate ; or otliers may entertain a contrary opinion, and argue that tlie ascent must have been very easy to have permitted us to travel so quickly. It was no part of my aim to make or to break 'records'; and, personally, 1 luive no objection to the adoption nf either of tliese opinions. Whether fast or slow, I remarked that both of the Carrels ccnnmenced to gi\'e indications of fatigue when we were about 18,000 feet high. Jean-Antoine was a man wlio always wished to 1ie in front, and if lie yielded up tlie lead voluntarily it was a sure sign that he was tired. In ascending tlie last twelve liundred feet, although the axes were little used and we seldom sank more than a foot in the snow, the men changed places, and took the lead alternately, perhaps a dozen times. Louis had no desire to retain it,— indeed, I tliink it may lie said that neither of them could have held it for any length of time. Although these changes scarcely occupied a minute apiece, I found the little stoppages very convenient. Instead of hindering, they probably assisted progress ; and it should lie added, to the credit of the cousins, that this ascent was made without a fault. There was no retracing of steps, and doing woik twice over. Due to this, our ascending rate, on that day, was Ijetter than tlie average. "We had now paid some attention to the first, second, third and fiurth of the Great Andes of the Equator. There was no likelihood of finding their supremacy disputed ; for my prede- cessors agreed that these mountains towered head and shoulders above all the lest, anil they were in general agreement as to the order in wliicli the others followed. According to La Condamine, and lieiss and Stiibel, Altar, Sangai and Illiniza were next in rank. ' Till' (Ifscciiding rate is not known, on acponnt of tlic tk'tour. We left the suniniit at 11. -35 a.m. ; arrived on Pointe .larriu at 2.40 p.m. ; stopjicd thirty minutes, and then went down in another half- hour to the camp. 23G TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT AXDES. chap. xii. In the Geofjrafia dc la BejmUica del Ecuador of Dr. M. Yilla- vicencio I had, however, lighted upon a reference to a mountain called Sara-urcu, which is not, I believe, mentioned either by La Condamine, Humboldt or Boussingault. Its heisht, according to Villavicencio, was 17,276 feet (6210 varas). As this closely a^jproximated to the elevation assigned to Altar, Sangai and Illiniza, it seemed not impossil.ile that the mountain might prove to be the fifth in rank : and before quitting the neighbourhood I proposed to hunt it down, lieing the more moved to do so Ijecause it was said to be situated well to the east, and might afford another chance of having a glimpse of the great, unknown Amazonian basin. At Quito I was unable to procure any information as to the location of Sara-urcu. Few pei'sons were acquainted with the name ; but when Senor Espinosa heard me mention it he said that tlie mountain (and all the countiy to the east) belonged to him, and that he would indicate its direction. When we first started for Cayambe, Senor Espinosa did point out a vague something in the clouds which he said was Sara-urcu. "We did not actually see the mountain until the 4th of April, and then it appeared onlj^ for a few seconds, just long enough to obtain an idea of its position. In those few seconds we saw that we should in all probability be able to ascend it, if its base could be reached. Before leaving Cayambe, I sent Jean-Antoine with David in advance, to see if they could light upon another camping -place in the right direction ; retaining Louis and Verity to assist in collecting. In the neighlinurluiod of the camp (that is to say, either a little above or below 15,000 feet above the level of the sea) we found the nine beetles that are mentioned below,^ ' *Colpodcs pjisiulosus, Bates {Su2)p. Ajtp., p. 14) ; *C. rotundkeps, Bates (p. 15) ; *C. fusipalpis, Bates (p. 17) ; C. stcno, Bates (p. 20, with Figure) ; *Trcchus sp. ; Bembidium fulvocindttm, Bates (p. 22); Naupadus parvieoUis, Olliff (p. 67); *Listrodercs inconspicuiis, Olliff (p. 69) ; and *Erirrhinus glabcr, OUitf (p. 76). Those marked liy asterisks were found only on Cayambe. CHAP. MI. COLPODKS. 237 iiicludiiiL;' tliree species of Cvl^wdcs which were obtained only ;it this locality. We had already obtained members of this genus at great heights on several other mountains, and on Pichineha had been struck by the foot that they existed in considerable nunil)ei'S amongst frozen soil. The two which have been named 1)y ]\Ir. Bates C. mc/jacephalus and C. Pichineha came from Guagua-l'ichiucha, the former from the summit-ridge (at 1.5,600 feet), and the latter from the second camp (14,992 feet). In each case they were discovered whilst lireaking out rock speci- mens, and were found in colonies, thriving amongst stones which were cemented together with ice. Some species of Colpodcs come from more genial zones, but the larger part of those we obtained enjoyed life under very frigid eonilitions. The minima of the fdur nights Ap. 2-Ap. 5 inclusive, were 2*7', 31°, 24°'5, and 24° Falit. respectively, degrees of cold sutticient in hard freeze the surface of the soil ; which, fuither, was usually covered with snow in the morning. The scouts returned, bringing a good report ; declaring that they had found a regular 2Mlaee — -an old Indian dwelling, ■planted cdl round vith shrubs — which would permit the tents to be dispensed with ; and we broke up camp (.m the Gth, to go to this wonderful jjlace, expecting they had either dropped upon an edifice of prehistoric age, or on some relic of the dusky Incas. ">"'^' I.A DORMIDA DE MAYORAZZO. CHAPTER XIIT. Tll?: FIRST ASCENT OF SAKA-URCU. Upox leaving Cayanilie on tlie 6tli of ^Ipiil, we cainc down three thousand feet by a buttress or ridge running out towards the south -south -west, and then turned to the east; camping tliat night in the 'palace surrounded by shrulis' — the structure represented at the head of this chapter — which was called La Domiida (the sleeping -place) de Mayorazzo (11,805 feet), a good tiling iif its kind, thuugh not very palatial; and at this lower level we got again into a warmer climate. In tlie daytime temperature was higher than 50° Falit., and the lowest niininnnn was well above freezing-point (38^ • 5). La Dorniida was a hut occasiDnally used by herdsmen when searching for strayed cattle, and was situated in a wood — almost a forest: surrounded by fallen and decayed trunks, laden with ciiAi'. xin. aoXZALO riZARUO CEOKSEH THE ANDES. 239 mosses^ oTi.iwing luxuriantly, thic/kly caked and interlaced \\\un(jens, .Mitt. ; Didymodon, near acuiifoHus, Jaeg. ; Porolrichum variabilc, Hampe ; Ncckcra J"inesoiu,Tay\. ; Lejcunia sp. ; Ancura sp. ; and Dicranmii spcciosuni, Hook. & Wils. - Eurimcne cxcclsa, var. (very numerous); Hahidota suffusa, H.S. ; Ar/rotis sp. ; Epiohis sordilus, H.S. ; and others. " See Tlie Royal Commcntai-ics of Ptru, liy Garcilasso dc la ^'cJ,'a (translated by Sir Paul Ryeaut), fol., Loud., 1688, pp. 601-7, 631-3. ■■ It is said that upon starting Pizarro went througli ' the Province of Quixos, wliicli lies North from Quilu' ; that he returned to the north of his outward route ; and that when he re -arrived in the interior some of the inhabitants of tjuito wont thirty leagues to succour him. Little dependence, I imagine, can be I'lacecl upon the ligures. Inasmuch as the trail througli Papallacta is the only known way across the Eastern Andes, at the present time, in the neighbourhood 240 TRAVELH AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xiii. Andes somewhere near the E(j^uator ; and that this valiant k'ader, and his picked band of hardy adventurers, found that to over- come tlie natural difficulties of the region was a hartlei' task than the Conquest of Peru. " The most irresistiljle of all was Hunger, that grievous and cruel Enemy of Man and Beast, whicli hath been so fatal to Ijoth in that uninhabited Countrey." ^ From what we could learn of the people of Cayamlje (and this was very little) the natural difficulties of the neighbourhood had not been overstated. It was not of course for a moment believed tliat we were attracted here by any such ridiculously transpai'ent ni()ti\'e as the determination of the ele\'ation of a mountain. In their eyes there was another allurement. Sara- urcu was said to contain boundless riches — much gold and silver — which, it was delicately hinted, we might perhaps disco^•er. Upon arrival at La Doi'mida two men wei'e found in waiting ' to assist' us. One of them — a very old Indian — Ijeing physically an infant, I sent liack to his village. The other was a tough- looking half-breed, whom I called ' The Spy ' ; and in order that he might do that for which he was sent I despatched him, with of the Efiuator, it seems probable that Gonzalo Pizarro went by that route. It is still customary for persons proceeding by it to go a few miles to (he north on leading (Juito, though they speedily bear round to the cast. The words Rio de Ids Quixos will be found on the Maldonado map, to the east of Antisana. ^ " By reason of the continual Rains, and moisture of the Earth, their woollen Cloths anil linen being always wet, became rotten, and dropped from their I'lodies, so that from the highest to the lowest every Man was naked, and had no other covering than some few Leaves. . . So great, and so iusupportal)le were the Miseries which Gonzalo Pi(;arro and his Companions endured for want of Food, that the four thousand Vidians which attended him in this Discovery, perished with Famine. . . Likewise of the three hundred and forty Spaniards which entred on this Discovery, two hundred and ten dyed, besides the fifty which were carried away by Orellana. . . Their Swords they carried without Scabbards, all covered with rust, and they walked barefoot, and their Visages were become so black, dry aud withered, that they scarce knew one the other ; in which condition they came at length to the Frontiers of Quitu, where they kissed the Ground, aud returned Thanks to Almighty God, who had delivered them out of so many aud so immiuent dangers." — The Royal Commentaries of Peru, p. 632. .iiAi'. Mil. A CAMP IN A htlFAMT. 241 must lit' tlie others, on the 7th, 8th, and 9tli to explore in the direction of Sai'a-urcu. At this time I was feverish, and found my internals going wrong, from the last few days' exjieriences ; and remained in the hut under a pile of ponchos, dii'ecting operations. The scouts came back with bad repoits. The animals, they said, ciiuld g(j no farther; there was an end to paths and ti'ails, except occasional wild -beast tracks; there was nothing whatever to eat, and everything must be carried ; there was no place to camp upon, the whole country was a dismal swamp ; and everlasting rain was falling; so nuTch so tliat, although tliey supposed tliey liad been near to Sara-urcu, they were quite unable to be sure. On discussion, it was concluded that the tents must be left behind, as we were not strong enough to carry both them, the wraps and food. Hence it was indispensable to find a place which would afford some protection against weather, and wild- animals; and on the third day they reported an overhanging cliff' which would answer sufficiently well. It was arranged that Cevallos shoxdd remain at La Dormida to care for his beasts, with the Jo\ial Man to go to and fro between the village and the Imt transporting provisions, which were to be brought to the front by Verity and the Spy; while David acted as camp- le and all the rest was shut out by unfathomable, impenetrable mists, limiting the view to a few hundred yards around the summit, whicli was surrounde.ni. observations 2 K 250 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xnr. in rank of the Andes of the Ei|uator, and indeed was less in height than several of the minor peaks which had Ijeen already ascended. Snrj)rised hy darkness liefore we could arri\'e at Corredor Machai, another miserable night liad to Ije passed at the upper station. On the 18th we descended, and took ourselves off as speedily as possible. After the reed, the chief Botanical feature of the valley in whicli the ' Hiinter's refuge ' was placed was the extraordinary manner in which the twigs and branches of such trees as were there were laden — almost stifled — with the lichen Usnea barbata, Fries. This lichen and the Chusqum were the two dominant species, and put nearly everything else out of sight. The flora here is probably extensive. Close to the rock there were Cur-rant bushes in flower, a Fuchsia {F. Loxcnsis, H.B.K.) at the greatest height these plants were seen, and Ferns were numerous, although concealed.' P.ut all the botanical treasures in Ecuador would not have enticed us to stop. "VVe turned our backs on this super -saturated place with the greatest possible pleasure ; passed the nights of the 18th and 19 th at La Dormida, and on the 20th returned to Cayambe village, understanding better than when we left it why Gonzalo Pizarro kissed the f/roiind when he stood again on teiTU Jirma. Such information as I brought from Sara-urcu dillers niateri- at Guayaquil (red. to 32° F.) were 20'flr2 and 29'859 inches, air temperatures, respectively, being 80° and 81° Falit. During our stay on tlie summit, temperature fluctuated between 43°" 5 — 55° Falit. Flies, evidently stragglers, of three distinct species were captured on the summit. Like the rest of the Diptera, they remain undescribed. ' The following were some of the more common species roinid aliont Corredor Machai. Lichens : — Bccomyccs imhrkatus, Hooker (abundant) ; Parmelia Kam- ischadal'is, Esohw. ; Stictn laciniala, Ach. (abundant); Sticta sp. ; and Usnca barbata, Fries (very abundant). Mosses: — Breuklia sp. ; Daltonia bilimbata, Hampe ; ffypnum ciiprcssiformc, Linn. , var. ; H. SchrcbcH, Willd. (abundant) ; Mctzgcria clavajlora, Spruce; Mniiim rostratum, Sehrad.; Plagiochila sp. ; and Ultkogoniiim mnioides, Schimp. Ferns : — Clicilanthes scariosa, Kaulf. ; HyvicnophiiUum sericciim, Sw. ; and Pohjpodin m suhscssile, Baker. CHAi>. xiii. THE HEIGHT OF SARA-URGU. 251 ally from the statements made about that moiiutaiu l>y Yillavi- ceiicio. He gives in his Gcograjia G210 varas as its height;^ upon his map, places it south of east of Quito and south-south-west of Cayambe (mountain), near Papallacta; he quotes from Velaseo^ to the effect that it was a volcano which formerly emitted fire, aud he says it has latterly ejected ashes, priiducing consternation in the Capital, whence it is distant thirty -five miles.^ I found that Sara-urcu is only 15,502 feet high, and is placed south-east by south of Cayamlie (mountain) ; that it is not a volcano, and cannot have emitted tire and ejected ashes; and that it lies con- siderably to the north of east of Quito, at the distance of about forty -five English miles. Instead of Ijeing the fifth in altitude of the C4reat Andes of the Equator, it proved to be the lowest of all the snow -peaks, and considerably inferior in elevation to several which scarcely reach the snow -line. Before we left Cayambe I pursued enquiries for Cyclopivm (Pimelodus) ci/dopum. In the first volume of the Zoology of Humboldt aud lionplaud's Journey, a description,"' and a figure drawn on the spot by Humboldt himself, of this fish are given, which is said (p. 23) to l;ie the onl>/ one fomid in the ' Kingdom of Quito' at heights above 8752 feet (1400 toises). Tliis state- ment is in itself somewhat remarkalile, and the information whicli ^ Reckoning tlie vara at 2'782 English feet, 6210 varas are equal to 17,276 English feet. I am not aware what foundation he had for this statement. Possibly, he heard that the mountain bore large glaciers, and conjectured that its elevation must be near those of the other glacier-bearing Andes. - I have not been able to find a reference to this mountain in Velasco. " "Segun retiere el P. Velasco en su historia de Quito, este volcau ha arrojado llamas j)Or dos veces ; mas, en estos liltimos ahos, ha arrojado gran cantidad de cenizas volcanicas, jjor Diciembre de 1843, i por el misnio mes, en 1856. La jirimcra de estas enipciones duro dos dias, i puso en mucha consternacion a los habitantes de Quito, i a sus- pueblos circumveciuos. La altura do csta moutaiia es de 6210 varas sobre el mar. . . Esta situado a 35 niillas E. de Quito." — Gcograjia de. la JlcitubUca del Ecuador, por Manuel Villaviceneio, Svo, New York, 1858, pp. 52-53. ■* Vol. i, pp. 21-25, PI. 7. Memoire sur uiic iwiive/lc csjiecc de Piiiuiudc, jcUe par Ics volcaits du lioyaume de Quito. 252 WAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT AXDEH. chai'. xiii. accompanies the dL'scriptiou is extraordinaiy. Humbijldt says that duiing iiiinor eruptions of C'otopaxi, Tunguragua, and Sangai, and eruptions or convulsions of Iniljabura, and Carihuakazo, immense numbers — thousands — of these fish (which he calls Fimclodus cydopum) are thrown out ; that they are sometimes ejected, from the ci'aters at the summits of these mountains, and scinietinies through fissures in their slopes; curious to say, "con- stantly at the elevation of 15,980-16,626 feet (2500 to 2600 toises) aboA^e the sea." He speaks of this as a regular occurrence in the case of the first three named mountains, and says that the pestilential odours which aiise from the decay of these fish cause fevers, etcetera. The most wonderful part of the stoiy has yet to come. These fish, which are supposed to be ejected from the craters of fiery volcanoes 17,000 to 19,500 feet above the sea, nr i'rom fissures at heights of 16,000 to 16,600 feet, are said to reach the plains alive, after they have tumbled or have lieen washed all the way down the sides of the mountains. The distinguished traveller adds, cautinusly, "this fact does not appear to me to be sufficiently vouched for " ; but says, immediately afterwards, " What is certain is that, amongst the thousands of dead fish one sees come down from Cotopaxi there are very few sufficiently disfigured to let one believe that llicy have been exjiosed to great heat. This fact becomes more striking when we consider the soft flesh of these animals. . . It appeared very interesting for Natural His- tory to verify the nature of these animals." Tor the rest let ine refer the readei' to the oi'iginal, or to Aspects of Nature, xfA. ii, p. 231, where the same story is gi\en in diffi'i-ent words. It will, I think, be gathered from the original, that Humljoldt did not himself see any of the fish which were said to ha-\'e been 'ejected.' He identified them \\itli the fish which are iViund in })onds, lakes, and streams throughout the interior of Ecuador, and it was one of these latter that he figured and described. He commits himself, however, to a belief in the story by the passage cHAi'. XIII. A FlUE-rnOOF FIHH. 253 commeueiiig " ^^'llat is certain," and especially by the title of his papei' (Memoir upon a new species of Pinielode thro-wn out by the ^'^ ilea noes of the Kingdom of Quito). In Aspects of Nature he says that these fish live in subterranean reservoirs in the Vol- cauoes. There seems uo limit to the credulity of man. All these marvels have been frequently embodied in works treating- upon Natui-al History, without protest. I venture to point out that from 12,000 feet upwards the slopes of Cotopaxi are uninliahitcd; that the height of 16,000 to 16,600 feet is an altitude to which the natives of Ecuador never I/O under ordinary circumstances, still less would they lie there during an eruption ; and that uo one can possibly affirm from personal knowledge that these fish have ever been thrown out from the crater, or from fissures at the height of 16,000 feet. From 15,000 feet upwards the cone of Cotopaxi was found to lie so warm as to quickly liquefy snow which fell upon it (see p. 142). At 19,500 feet the face of the slope was observed to luu'e a temperature of 50° Faht., and at the depth of eight feet 110° Faht. (see p. 148). At this height, water boiled at 179°-1 Faht. It was clear that at a very moderate distance below the surface the boiling-point of water woiild be reached. A subter- ranean reservoir of quite small dimensions would necessarily he suri'ounded by I'ock at a tenqjerature probably nuich exceeding the boiling-point of water. As it is stated that the lish which are su2Jposed to have been ejected from the crater, or to have been expelled from the subter- ranean reservoirs, were frequently ali\"e, and had their flesh in good preservation, it appears to me there is stronger evidence against the nf)tion that they dwell in subteri'anean reservoirs than in favour of it. Fish cannot emerge in this rtiugh manner from boiling-water or from super-heated steam alive, and with their skins intact. Yet I do not like to al.iandcm all lielief in this pet story of childhood, as wonderful in its way as the history of Shadrai'h, j\Ieshach, and Abednego. Possibly, after some eiuptious 254 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xiii. and earthquakes large niunbers of these fish have been found out of water, but this would not prove ejection by or from the volcanoes. Floods occasionally pour down the slopes of Cotopaxi, causing rivers to swell and ti) overflow theu" banks (see pages 127, 138, and 159) ; and it would be no marvel if during such inundations multitudes of fish were borne from their native haunts, and left stranded when the waters subsided. Also, during earthquakes, fissures opening in the earth may change the courses of streams ; or might, l.iy intersecting the beds of pools, drain them and leave shoals of fish high and dr}', living and unscathed. In these possi- bilities there is, I imagine, the sulo- stratum of ti'uth upon which a mountain of faljle has been raised. In an indirect manner, the statement that Pimdodus cydopum is the only fish found in the interior above 8750 feet has been questioned. Other ti'avellers have brought home fish from this region, on several occasions, which have been described under various names. In a paper in the American Naturalist for 1871 (pp. 694-5), Dr. Putnam, however, advanced the opinion that the whole of these so-called different species should be referred to one, somewhat \'ariable, species ; and as the descriptions had been based upon a small nundser of examples I thought it was advisable to collect freely, in order tliat the matter might be re-investigated. Machachi was the first place where encpiiries were made, and I introduced the matter there to the taud.io- keeper, who at once declared that several kinds of fish could be found in the neigh- bouring streams. " My good Antonio," said I, " if you will only shew me two kinds I will give you five pesos." This manner of approaching the subject commended itself to the landlord, and he soon brought examples ; but, although there were differences amongst them, Antonio Eacines did not earn the reward ; for when they were placed side by side he was oliliged to confess that they were aU one kind. Yet he maintained to the last that other fish were to l)e found in the interior of Ecuador, and that they grew six, seven to eight inches long. CHAP. xiii. A FISH DINNER. 255 From the Macluu'hi .spociinens I selected young and old, and t hcise presenting most variety ; and at Cayanibe made friends with the schoolmaster, and induced him to send his schnlavs to scour the streams and ponds. Nothing could have suited the urcliins lietter. Pimclodus cyclopum began to arrive from all points of the compass. They filled a bucket, and I had to cry " Stop ! " Again I made a selection, and enquired " What shall we do with the rest?" "Eat them," said the Jefo - politico ; and they were cooked and ci:>nsumed, and were found not to be more nasty than other small fry composed principally of heads and tails. Here again slight differences could be noted, but no one could venture to say that there were two species. At C'hillo, and Eieiliamlja, I again procured a large number, with similar results. Out of the many hundreds which passed through my hands, none exceeded four inches in length. Fifty -one wei'e preserved, and submitted upon my return to the independent examination of the late Dr. F. Day, who comcided with the views expressed by Dr. Putnam, and therefore upheld the statement originally made by Humljoldt.^ Pimclodus cyclopum (proposed by Dr. Putnam to be called C'l/elojnuvi cyclo2mm) is found throughout the interior of Ecuador generally, from 8500 to 10,000 feet above the sea ; ^ in streams flowing both into the Atlantic and Pacific ; and in ponds, pools and lakes quite disconnected. It swims with a wriggly action ; comes I'requently to the surface to breathe ; and often appears to be blind, or at least to see very imperfectly. It should be repeated, however, that a number of Ecuadorians stoutly maintained that there were other fish in the streams, as much as a foot in length ; and I have no reason to doubt their sincerity, although they failed to produce examples. ' Dr. Day's icmaiks will be found in the Supplementary Appendix, pp. 137-9, accompanierl liy tigiires of this fi,sh seen from above, below, and in profile. - And perhaps much higher. I was unalile to investigate the numerous ponds and pools on Antisana, the small lake at the foot of the cone of Cotopaxi, and the larger one upon ^Mojanda. FOUNTAIN ON THE I'LAZA AT CAKRANQUI. chattet; XIV. ox THE PROVINCE OF IMBABl'llA, AND THE FIIiST ASCENT OF COTOCACHI. Upon the 21st of April we left Cayainbe, and crossed the depres- sion between Mojanda and Inibabura to the village of Otovalo ; ^ having two objects in view — an ascent of Cotocachi, and collection of Antiquities in the district which has been in the past, and is still, the most densely populated in Ecuador. I went to that country possessed with the notion that there must have been an Equatorial " Stone Age," though without positive information that stone implements could be found ; or knowing whether during Incarial times weapons and implements of stone were in common use. Having nothing to shew, for a ' Tlieve was a fiiir track all the way, and from the Lake of St. Palilo to Otovalo there was a resiiectable road. .4 SEARCH FOn AXTIQVITIES. 257 long time there were no results. If one talked (if the lueas the natives enquired with surprise " Who were tliey ? " and they seemed equally unacquainted with the woi'ks of their (proljably) nuich more remote ancestors. So we fell back upon asking for old things, and then came shabby umbrella tops, battered scissors, and broken pottery — objects which were rejected because they were not nearly old enough. At length we seemed to have struck oil. One night, when at supper, the door was stealtliily opened ; and a rough head peeped round, peering out of a dilapidated poncho that concealed a bulky object. " You ha\'e something to shew ? " " Yes, Senor." " Is it old ? " " That it is " ; and, tossing aside his ragged garment he displayed his treasure, saying, triumphantly, " ^/( is is vcrtj old, Seiior!" At Machachi, by per- sistent enquiries, Perring at last discovered a bat- tered stone axe, and thus getting a start, through having something to shew, we picked up others as we progressed northwards; though south of Quito an- tiquities of any kind were rare, and in the Capital it was scarcely more use to look for them than to search for Chelsea ware in Chelsea, or for Caxtons in Westminster. StiU a few things were obtained, even there, — amongst others, the lance-point given on the next page,^ which was found in an old wall that was being pulled down. Every one said, "Try Imbabura. (io to Ibarra, and tn Carrancpii tlie birtli- place of Atahualpa." ' This was one of the twii chiiipcd olijects which were obtaiiieih The whole of the rest were polisheO. 2l 'THIS IS VHRV OLD, SeKOR !" 258 TRAVELS AMUNGST THE GREAT ANDES. ^^ ••-n So we went to Imlmbura,-' gradually acquiring things in stone as we rode along — accosting every person and enquiring at all the houses — sometimes spying them hanging as ornaments or charms around the necks of Indian women,- or used as weights by weavers on their looms, or as toys liy children. Verity was a tolerably efficient assistant, and I found a more acute one presently at Otovalo in the person of the Yankee Jew who had anathema- tized the salt fish on Good Friday ; and succeeded in enlisting the sympathies of several other persons who were not insensible to the value of the Almighty Dollar. Time was liecoming precious, for this north- ern journey had occupicil longer than was intendinl ; and it was arranged that Cotocachi should lie dis- posed of first, and that I should pursue my cjuest for antiquities witli Verity and Ccvallos, whilst tlie Carrels returned southwards to make another attempt to ascend Uliniza. At Otovalo we were infurnied tliat nur mountain was unapproach- ' Imbabura i.s bounded on tlie noith Ijy Colombia, and on the west, east, ami south by the Provinces of Esmeraldas, Oriente, and Pichineha. It is divided into four cantons, Tulean, Ibarra, Cotocachi and Otovalo, wliieh are subdivided into twenty-nine parishes. Ibarra is the chief town. The mountain called Imbabura occupies a large part of the Province. ^ See the illustration on i>age 237. niAi'. .\i\-. THE A^CEXT OF COTOCACJlf. 259 alilc IVmii tliiit directiiiu, uu iiccouut of eai-tlii|uake fissures, and were advised to pnieeed to tlie village of Cotocaehi, and to seek the ver thing and scraped the poles to make them run in more easily, and thus made matters worse instead of lietter. The wood swelled, and did not slide in as freely as before; and in the hurry of the occasion some of the canvas became puckered, and pi-evented one of the lower halves from entering its socket. We struggled in vain to rectify it ; and, when the tent was at last pitclied, one or another had, for the next fourteen hours, to support the faulty corner to save the structure from collapsing. In the morning six inches of new snow was lying around, and the mountain was loaded with it. Shall we proceed ? If this had lieen dry, powdery snow I should have declined. There is no objeotiou, beyond the labour involved, to traversing new-fallen snow upon mountain-slopes provided it will cohere, and adiiere. Particles of granular snow coalesce slowly : and in cold weather, particularly, several days may elapse before they will hind. Happily, we never saw snow of tliis description in Ecuador, although it is common in most high regions. Our snow was generally wet. It may have been the product of intense cold ; but, falling through atmosphere with temperatures considerably above the freezing-point, it arrived upon the ground in a thawing condition, and had not the tendency to slip upon slopes, which is a characteristic of the gi-anular state.^ We therefore proceeded, after a preliminary inspection, and at 11.35 a.m., on the 24th of April, stood on tlie very highest point of Cotocaclii. One hundred and ninety minutes were occupied in going from the camp (14,490 feet) to the summit (16,301 feet), and we consequently ascended 571 feet per hour, a rate nnich inferior to that attained on Antisana and Cayanil)e, which is to lie attributed to the caution employed to avoid disturbance of ' Dining the wliole time we were anioiig.st the Great Andes ol' the Eijuator we uuitlier saw a stioic - avalaiicJic nor the track of one. ON THE SUMMIT OF OOTOCAi'HI. 2G3 the snow, and to the greater steepness of the gronnd.^ I noticed that 657 steps were made without stopping, when lietweeu 15,000-10,000 feet high; and this conii)ares favouralily with the experiences of many practised mountaineers at a similar elevation (pressure) upon Mont Blanc. Though it must lie admitted tliat the steps were short ones (as we were quite unable to do anytliing approach- ing this during the earlier part of the journey), there is reason to helieve that we had, in the course of the last four montlis, liecome somewhat habit- uated to low pressures. The tiue summit of L'otocaclii is a pointed peak of lava," broken up by frost, extremely steep at the finish, and upon that account bearing little snow. I estimate it to lie 150 to 180 i'eet higher than the northern, or second sunnuit. This mountain C0T0C.\CH1, FKO.M CARRANQUI. ' Left uaiiip at 8.25 a.m., and went to the top without a lialt. On the 24th ot April, at 12 (noon), the Mercuvial Barometer (reduced to 32° Falit.) read 16-661 inches, air temperature 36°'5 Faht. Tlie 11 a.m. observation at Guaj-aqnil (red. to 32°) was 29-869 iuclies, air temp. 81° Faht. " " Purplisli - grey rock, containing small whitisli felspar crystals, witli a good many minute vesicles. . . The gi-oiind mass appears to consist of a glassy base, containing minute ci-ystallites, probably for the most part felspar, but perhaps also a pyro.xcnic mineral, with rods of opacite and with fcrrite staining. In tliis occur crystals of plagioclastic felspar, not generally exceeding 0-3 inch, agreeing in general cliaraeter with those already described, but perhaps more frequently containing enclosures, and 'dirty looking,' together with a pyro.xcnic mineral. The crystals of this are not very cliaracteristic, but I think both augite and liypersthene can be identified. . . These rocks from Cotocaclii appear to be hyperstheniferous augite- andcsite. "— I'rof. T. G. Bonney, Proc. Boyal Soc, Nov. 27, 1884. 264 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xiv. is probably the eleventh in rank of the Great Andes of the E(|uator. Tradition says that it was in eruption some eentuiies ago, and it is not unlikely that a crater lies buried l:)eneath the glacier wliich at present occupies the depression between its two peaks.^ On the 25th of April we returned to Cotoeachi. The lanes were thronged l>y troops of Indians, hurrying forward with unwonted alacrity to the village, where the streets and exits from the Plaza were liarricaded, to prevent the escape of tormented cattle. Their eagerness was explained. What sweeter pastime is there than baiting a bull ? When can it l)e more fitly practised than upon a Sunday afternoon ? The elite of Cotoeachi were engaged at the Priest's house in perusing an account of the Ascent of Antisana, wliich had just been published by General Veintemilla in the Official Gazette. His Eeverence insisted that it must be read in pulilic, and told a satellite to inform the people that he had a connnunication to make to them. The news spread as if by magic. The populace followed us literally en masse, streamed into the building where the lecture was to be given initil it was jammed tight with stand- ing people, clambered on to the window-sills, and stood outside in thousands, craning their necks forward to catch the words of their Pastor ; wh(3 from a slightly elevated desk, after a little introduction, read the whole of a very matter- of- fiict relation, to ' There was abundance of the lichen Slcrcocaulon turgcsccns, Nyl., and of the moss Grimmia ovata, AVeb. & Mohr, amongst the summit rocks. Examples of these two genera were frequently seen closely against or surrounded by snow (15-16,600 feet), and it was not unusual to find thcui in such a position. Five species of Giimmia were found at 16,000 feet and iipioardx, elsewhere. Upon the very highest point of all there were two Grasses [Triselum Aiidinuin, Benth., and a Dcijcuxia wliich is not yet determined), only one root of each, gi'owiug strongly ; two thousand feet above the upper limit of their ordinary range, in the most exposed position that coulil be selected, where during the greater part of the year temperature must be much below the freezing-point and the soil be hard frozen ; — yet growing strongly, evidently flourishing, and approaching maturity — the most remarkalile instance of this kind that has ever enmo under mv notice. CHAP. XIV. THE I'liUVlXCE UF IMUAUURA. 265 wliirh tliey listoned in the most perfect .silence, and with a rapt aUentiou tliat sliewed their respect for their spiritual leader and gave evidence of thirst for infianiation.^ AVlicu this was over we returned to Otovalu, ami on the next day tlie Carrels went off to Quito, accompanied hy David and the Jovial arriero, leaving me with Verity and Cevallos. I was in very iudiHereut health, and received here, at a time wlien tliey were valuaJile, stime attentions from the Yankee Jew who had made himself conspicuous on Good Friday, by his wrath at the tabic (Vlwtc. The language of this hybrid Hebrew was often most un- parliamentary ; but he was a good-natured man, a trader befoi'e everything (he would cither buy your hair or sell you a watch), iind I endeavoured to requite his kindness when we met again at the Capital. Inducing him and au intelligent cobbler to work tins locality in my absence, on the 28th of April I rode across liiilialiiu'a to Ibarra, passing through the villages of Hutanta(iui and San Antonio. A large part of tlie Province is occupied by the mountains Mojanda, Cotocachi, and Imbabura. The slopes of the latter extend frdiu Carran(pii almost to the Lake of San Pablo, and on the west commence to rise at the village of Human. The fertile and cultivated portion of the Province lies principally in the basin that is enclosed by the three mountains. The liottom of this is not so high as those whicii have lieen already mentioned, and it enjoys a happy mean between the chillness of the more elevated lands, and the sultry climate of the lower gi-ound. To this higher temiierature, more than to any difference in the soU, till' fertility nf Tml.ialiura is to be ascribed; and the comparative ' C'oin[iulsoi'y education was I'stablislied Ijy Garcia Moreno in Ecuador Ijefore it was introduced into Great Britain, aud in 1880, in tlie interior, it was exceptional to Iind a [lerson wlio could not read. Tlicy had little chance, however, of obtaining anything to read. There was no book-shop in Quito, nor, I believe, in the whole country. The people with whom we ini.\ed (either Indians or half- whites) were always eager to have anything read to them. In this total absence of literature, and thirst I'or information, there was a great opportunity for a man of enteriu'izc. 2 M 266 TRAVELfi AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xiv. density of its population is a consequence of its fertility. Between the places which have been eniunerated, the whole country is dotted with detached residences — Indian villas so to speak — each provided with its little plot of ground, where all and nioi'o than is necessary can be raised.^ The daily wage of the people is said to be only a medio (two-pence), yet it appeared to he sufficient for their wants. They Looked sleek and well-fed, and were rich enough to indulge in drunkenness." Notwithstanding this drawback, it is pleasant to ride across Tmbabura. Foliage gives shadow, and the roads are well-l.)eaten tracks, reasonably dry. Eound about Hutanta(|ui and San Antonio in particular, tliere are a great nundjer of artificial niduuds, from twenty or thirty to two hundred or more feet in diameter (in form resemliling the 'panccillos of the Volcanoes), which are universally considered to be tumuli. According to Father Velasco,^ more tlian twelve thousand of these were erected after the defeat, on the Plain of Hutautaqui, of the tribes of Cayambe, Carranqui and Otovalo by the Inca monarch, Huayna-Capac. Though they are very numerous, it cannot be su^Jiiosed for a moment that there are or ever have been 12,000 of these mounds in this locality. There are others in the neighbourhood of Carrancpii which are said to have been investigated at various times by joint-stock companies, with disappointing results. They desired gold and silver, and found little except bones and pottery. The villages which have just lieen mentioned, as well as the ' The I'tiUowiug tilings were being grown in this small district — Maize, Wheat, Barley, Sugar-cane, Cutton ; Peas, Lentils, Freneli-beans, Potatoes, Ynca, Parsnips, Lettuce, Cabbages, and other ordinary vegetables ; Bananas, Cherries, Strawberries, Chirinioya, Lemons, Oranges, and Grapes. " Until our arrival in Imbabura, we had not seen half-a-dozen intoxicated persons in Ecuador ; but when returning upon the 2Sth of April, in the little distance between Cotocachi and Otovalo, we passed three men who were dead drunk, a score of others badly inebriated, and many — including women — in a more or less advanced condition. ^ Histoirc du Royaumc ile Quito, par Don .Juan dc Velasco (translated bj' H. Ternaux-Conipans), 8vo, Paris, 1810; vol. i, ]i. 53. CHAP. XIV. THE EARTHQUAKE OF 1SG8. 207 larger uiies of the rrovince, were still in a very rniiKjus cwulitirm from the effects of the earth(|uake of August 16, 18G8. This occm-red at 1 a.m., ami is generally believed to have originated in the space lietween Otovalo and Cotocachi (village), and to have l)een an affair of a few seconds. The hav(jc was confined to the basin of Indialnira. A shock appears to have travelled north- wards, and to have rehoitndcd upon Ibarra from the mountains of Colombia;^ for the destruction at this place was more complete than in the towns closer to the great quebrada which opened in the night. I was told that not more than two dozen houses were left standing, and that lists were in existence shewing that 20,000 persons perished at Iliarra alone.'- I imagine that the disturbance of the earth which caused the shock (or shocks) occurred at no gi'eat distance beneath the surface. If the focus of distirrbance had lieen deep-seated, the area influenced would have been larger. At Ibarra, I brought letters of introduction to Senor Teodoro Gomez de la Torre, the greatest landowner in the north of Ecuador, — a gentleman who was spoken of everywhere with respect. Amongst other things standing to his credit was that, when nominated for the Presidency upon the assassination of Garcia Moreno, he retired in favour of Borrero, rather than divide his party. " My house," he was accustomed to say, " is the ' Tlie mountains of Colomliia .shut in the Province of Inibalmra like a wall. Though their general elevation is very coiisideralile, in the month of April they were without snow. - If these lists were examined it would I ex]ieet he found that this number is a gi'oss exaggeration. I think Ibarra never contained 20,000 jiersons. The place, however, was very badly wrecked. At the time of our visit, six churches, a con- vent, schools, and the hospital were in ruins. In the earthquake of 1868 the Indians suffered less than the rest of the popvda- tion, principally in conseqnence of the greater fragility and elasticity of their dwellings. Some may have been swallowed up by the opening of chasms, for in this rather thickly populated district a fissure several miles long could scarcely open anywhere without this happening. In a Report from Mr. Alfred St. John to the Foreign Olliec, dated Quito, July 14, 1831, the entire population of the Province of Imbabura is said to be 67,fl40, and that of the town of Iliarra to be 6000 (see note to page 1). 268 TRAVELS AMONGST THE (lUEAT ANDES, chap. xiv. only hotel at Ibarra," and he well sustained his reputation for hospitality. On the 29th of April we went over to Carrancjui, a village of *700 or 800 persons, about a mile and a quarter south of Ibarra, and a little above it ; at this place proceeding as before, question- ing every individual we met, exhiliiting tlie things which had been already acquired, and enlisting Priest and Jefo-politico in the search, and speedily found that much was oljtaiuable ; but my increasing weakness, and inaljility to procure proper remedies, warned me that it was time to return, and after a second visit to Carranqui we went luick to Otovalo, in possession of a collection that proved the existence of great numbers of unplements in stone in Equatorial America, and raised a strong presumption that there was, at some remote period, a Stone Age. I give liere all the remarks that will he, offered iqwrn this subject, although not a few of the examples to which reference will lie niaile were procured at a later date. I place first a class of olijects to which, so far as I am aware, special attention has not hitherto been drawn by any traveller. Those included in the group figured upon page 269 all belong to a tj'pe which is numerous in Ecuador, and they should not perhaps be classed either as Ornaments, "Weapons, or Implements. I call them Stars in Stone. They were found everywhere lietween Ibarra and I\iol)am)ia, and became embarrassing by their very quantity. The majority have six rays (and none have more), proceeding symmetrically from the centre, and the whole are fashioned alike upon each side. A ceitain number have only five rays, and occasional examples are irregular in shape (see the top figure, on the right). All are pierced liy a hole, whicli has been drilled from the two sides, and the size of this \-aries considerably. In dimensions they range from three to fixe inches in diameter, and from three-quarters of an inch to two inches in thickness. Their weight is from ti\'e to twenty ounces. The larger part are CHAT. XIV. ,sT,l/i'.s' liV ,s'7V(A'7^. 269 made from l>;xsaltic rock and gubbro. (JbJL'ct.s of this class were also cast in metal, but these are now rarely met with in Ecuador.^ Whilst they possess the general ]Kiiiits of similarity that have been mentioned, scarcely any two are identical in form. Some are flat and thin, others are thick, or rise in the centre upon each STARS IN STONE. side into a shape like the hull of a wheel. The number of these objects that I collected was as much a matter of surprise to Ecuadorians as it was to myself. Tiiough many persons were ' It i.s not milikcl}' that many examiiles in metal have jicvished in tlie melting- pot (like the axes and other iniiilemeiits ami weapons), through the Ecuadorian mania for c;oi.r). 270 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xiv. aware of the existence of these Stars in Stone, no one seemed to possess the least idea that they were so numerous, and so widely distributed. In examining hooks upon the contiguous countries, I find several references to stars in stone and in metal. Yet no traveller appears to have been struck by their frequency. In the Eeport of The U.S. Naval Astronomical Krjiedition to the Southern Hemi- sphere durinfj the years 1849-52,^ in vol. ii, p. 138, figures are given of two stars in bronze (found at Cuzco, Peru), one having a sixth ray prolonged into a hatchet, which suggests that it must have been a war-club, or battle-axe. In Squier's liook on I'eru^ (p. 177), there is a figure of a six-rayed object in limnzc, said to have been one of several, which are designated by the Author (apparently following some earlier writer) cassc-tetcs, and he says that among the fractured skulls that were found " the larger part seemed to have lieen broken 1)y lilows from some such weapons." Mons. Wiener, in his book on Peru and Bolivia,^ gives a figure of a star which was found at Ancon (near Lima), shewing a stick inserted in the central hole ; and another figure of a somewhat similar form in lirdiizc, also liaiidled. Like Sipiier, he calls tlicni casse-tetes.* Finally, the Doctors Eeiss and Stlibel remark, in their magnificent work upon the Pern-vian Antiquities obtained at Ancon,^ that " the few stone objects found here shew but slight 1 By Lieut. J. M. Gilliss ; -Ito, riiiladeliilua, 1856. - Peru, Incidents of Travel and E-iylm-ation in the Land nf the Incas, by E. Gooige Squier, M.A., F.S.A., late U.S. Commissioner to Peru; Svo, New York, 1S77. Si[uier says at the same page "if weapons of stone were ever found here, I faiUnl to learn tlie fact." In this passage, he is speaking of Northern Peru, close to the frontiers of Ecuador. ' Pirou et Bolivic, Paris, 1S80, p. 685. M. Wiener was sent in 1875 -7 to Peru and Bolivia to collect anti(iuities, and lie obtained a large number of olijccts. It is noticeable that in the hundreds of engi'avings in his book only about half-a-dozen things in stone are figured. * This expression, freely translated, means 'nut-crackers.' " The Necropolis of Ancon in Pent,, by W. Reiss & A. Stiibel ; London & Ficilin ; 3 vols., folio, 1880-1887. (2) © (2) SOME TYPICAL STONE IMPLEMEMIS COLIECIED BY THE AUTHOR IN ECUADOR. t'llAP. XIV. WEAPONS on SYMBOLS? 271 traces of workmanship, an exception beiny ... a stone weapon of the 'Morning Star' type. . . Tlie six-rayed stone star, liere found once only, is elsewliere in Peruvian graves by no means rare." Though all these writers ajipear to regard these objects as a kind of battle-axe (and are probably correct so far as tho.se having a ray prolonged into a liatchet are concerned), there are sevei'al considerations which make me hesitate to adopt the opinion that the Stars in Stone were habitually used as weapons. The Indians of this region were a (piiet, inott'ensive, unwarlike people. This is their nature still. Yet these objects were more numerous than any other kinds which were obtained, and are found everywhere. \Ve should therefoi-e be led to conclude that a great part of the IHipidalion was provided with offensive weapons. The larger of the Stars (which are as heavy as a pound and a quarter) no diubt might be used effectively ; hut the smaller ones, weighing only f few ounces, would not be very formidable; and taking them as a. whole they are less adapted either for offensive or defensive purposes than most of the implements which will presently be enumerated. To this may be added that many aie uninjured, and do not seem to have been put to any use whatever. Francisco Canipana (a half-Indian who joined us during the latter part of the journey) had assisted in the examination of graves in Peru, and said these Stars in Stone were found there placed upon the 1 ireasts of corpses ; and it seems to ine more likely that they were to the Children of the Sun syndic ils of the luminary that they worshipped, than that they were employed liy the nati^'es for breaking each other's heads. Out of the remainder of the objects in stone that were collected, a large immber should undoubtedly be classed as Implements. Not a few others are Ornaments, and there is a residuum which may have been either ornamental or useful. Uiion the accompanying plate five dilferent types of Imple- ments are represented. In the series A-E, the whole of the edges 272 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GBEAT ANDES, chap. xiv. are rounded, except the bottom ones. In the next line (F— J) all are of a chisel type. The tops and sides of these are sometimes flat or angular, and sometimes rduiided ; and the lower, or cut- ting- edges, are shaip. The examples in the next series (K-0) bear some reseml^lance to a bill-hook ; the top edges are flat ; and they are all pierced with lioles drilled from the two sides. The specimens in the next inw have similar holes — otherwise they approximate to the chisel type; while the type represented in the series U— Y differs from all the othei's in having projecting shoulders, and (occasionally) in having a groove along the length of the top edge, apparently to facilitate handling. All these five types were found m numbers, in many localities, and have evidently l:>een amongst the most common and generally used implements during the Eipiatoiial Stone Age. In minor respects they exhibit considerable variety, and there are large differences in their size, thickness, and weight. The type P-T was the most numerous, and I Ijrought home more than fifty examples. The greater part have holes drilled from each side,' though ui some the aperture is as broad internally as externally, that is to say, it passes straight through. The po.sitions of the hides vary, — some being centi'al, though most of them are nearest to the top. The lower edge is always the shai-pest ; and, while many would not lun'e cut l)utter, there are a few sharp enough to cut wood. Their weight innges from o\ to 29 ozs., and like the Stars in Stone they have been fashioned i'roni a diversity of rocks. Besides many examples of these five types, a large nnndier of undi.iulited Implements in stone were obtiiined, from which selec- tions are given upon page 273. Those marked E, J, K, L, N— Tare unii^ue, and the other forms are more or less raie. The central one, marked M, was the only object foi- \\liieh the nati\'es could assign a use, and it was pronounced to be a corn-pounder. This ^ These are not strictly speaking ' countersunk ' holes. They are less in dianieter in the niiddlc of the iniplenients than they arc on their surfaces. CIIAI'. XIV. SOME UNUSUAL FORMS. 273 one wi'inhs the and a 4uai-ter pmuii.ls, and I liave another of eleven piiunds. The form 1, of wliieli I have several examples, is con- sidered by IMr. Thomas Ewlmidv ' to be a " hollowing-hammer for metal," and it is possilile that those marked A, B and C (and tlieir ' At I'. 137 of the Report liy Lieut. (Ullis.s, already quoted, Mr. Ewbaiik says, — "Tlic groove worked round tlie uiidille was the universal dcviec by which ■2 .\ 274 rn.iniLS AMuxasr the great andes. chai-. xiv. nmiierous varieties) were used fur the same purpose. The ol}jects D, F, G and H are more puzzhiiy. Tlie two latter somewhat I'e- semble the two others represented upon tliis page, but (htler from them in nut liavinLi; tlie circidar eavities in the sides. The ol.)jocts of tliis class are hi^u'ldy wrought, and fashioned out of liard stone. It seems not unlikely that they were used for sharpening tools, and tliat the examples G, H are new (that is, un- used) specimens, Ijelongiug to the same class as those given upon this page. They have also been found liy M. Wiener in Peru. The smaller things that I dlitained in stone are made from a greater vaiiety of mateiials than the larger ones. Basaltic rock is used for about one third, and there are besides implements or objects in Glass, Jet, Jasper, Malachite, Saussuiite, Serpentine, Porphyry, and Granite. While the lai'ger implements and objects may weigh several pounds apiece, amongst these smaller matters thei'e ai'e many lighter than thr eighth of an ounce, and 1 have two — a delicately carved cup with a. handle, and a S(piatting figure — the united weight of which is less than twenty-four grains! Amongst the distinctly ornamental objects in stone there are imitations of Maize-heads. These were i)articularly mentioned in Juan & Ulloa's work, nearly a century and a lialf ago, and seem liandlcs were seeured tn primeval stone axes, Ikiiuiikts, ami chisels, namely, by bending a hazel or otlier pliable rod twice round the indentation, and then twisting or lashing the two ends together, to serve as a handle. Blacksmiths to this day everywhere thus handle their ]iunches and chisels. They have discovered no mode superior to one which was in vogue before edge-tools of metal were known." The specimen to which he referred came from Cuzco, Peru. M. Wiener, at p. CS5 of his liook, calls one of these a 'sling-stone,' — upon what ground is not clear. A few years ago implements of stone of this descrijition were used by Indians on the coast of the North Pacific, handled in the manner described by Mr. Ewbank, and 1 suppose they are still used by them. I'lIAl'. XIV. HOUSEHOLD CIODS. 275 U> have been butter known at that time than they are at present. The Spanish writers say ^ : — • " The inaizo has ever been the delight of the Indians ; for, besides being their food, their favourite liquor chicha was made of it ; the Indian artists tlicre fore used to shew tlieir skill in making ears of it in a kind of very hard stone ; and so perfect was the resemblance that they conld hardly be distinguished liy the eye from nature ; especially as the colour was imitated to the greatest perfection ; some represented the yellow maize, some the white. . . The most surprizing circumstance of the whole is, the manner of MAIZE-HEADS IN STONE. tlu-ii' wiprking, whicli, wlu-n we considii- Ihrir want of instruments and the wretched form of those they had, appears an inexplicable mystery : for either they worked with copper tools, a metal little able to resist the hardness of stones ; or, to give the nice polish conspicuous on their fl'orks, other stones must have been used as tools." Squier gives in his book on Pern (at p. 91) a bad representation of one of these stone maize - lieads, and says that tliey were specially mentioned " Ity Padre Arriaga in his rare lioiik on the Extirpation of Idolatry in Peru under the name zarumama," and were household gods of tlie ancient- iidiabitants. The examples engra\ed above came from Carran(pii. ' liclacion Ilistorica del viaje a la Amcricmm mcridimuil, 4to, Madrid, 1748, §§ 104", 1018. Tlic .|iicitatic.n is UKidc IV.mji tlic lil'lli Kii.i,'lish edition, Svo, Louden, 1807. 276 THAVELS AMOmiST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xiv. A munlKn' of otlier cil)jects in stone in my collection are dis- tinctly Ornaments, and in several instances were found still lieing worn liy Indian women, who parted with them nnwilhngly. "With others, in many instances, it is diflicult to distintiuish whether they were ornamental or usefnl. This is the case with the imitations of heads of animals whiih seemed to ha\'e lieen in favonr in the basin of lUobandja, and with an\il-shaped olijerts which were very ninuerons throughout Imlialiura. That tlie prinei])al part of these objects and implements in stone are of considerable or of i/rcat age is ajjparent from the fact that Garcilasso de la Vega scarcely mentions theiu. He says that the Indians "knew not the invention of putting a liandlr of Wood to their Hanmicrs, liut workeil A\ith certain Instruments they h;iil made of Copper, mixed with a suit of line Brass. Neither did lliey know liow to make Files or Graving-tools, or Bellows for Melting do\\'n Metals. . . But aljove all, their Carpenters seemed to be worst provided with Tools ; for though ours iise many Instruments made of Iron, those of Peru had no other than a Hatehet, and a Pick-axe made of Cojiper ; tliey neither had Saw, nor Augre, nor Planer, nor any other Tool for the Carpenter's work, so that they could not make Arches or Portals for doors; onely they hewed and cut their Timlier, and whitened it, and then it was pre2>ared for their Building : And for making their Hatchets and Pick -axes, and some few Bakes, they made use of the Silversmiths, for as yet they had not attained to the Art of Woi-king in Iron. Nor did they know how to make Nails, or use them, Ijut tied all their Tindjer with Cords of Hemp. Nor were their Ilcwers of Stone more artificial, for in oitting and shajnng their Stones, they had no other Tool, than one made with some sharp Flints and Pehliles, with which they rather wore out the Stone by continual rul'Mng, than cutting." — TI(C Hoynl Commentaries of Peru, pp. 52-3. From this passage it appears that at the time of the Pizarros the Indians used tools of metal for most jnirposes. The con- PER UVIA N Pn TTKU \ ', 277 (■ludiiig sentence evidently refers solelj* to I'asliiuning stones for Imilding. In the older writers in general I find nothing indicating tliat they liad cognizance of a Stone Age ; and modern travellers (so for as one can judge from casual references in their books) do not seem to have given serious attention to this matter. Such discoveries as may be made in the future, I anticipate, will confirm tlir ii|iiiii(in tliat tlie must part of these objects and implements in stone were already Auti(piities at the time of the Spanish Conquest : and belong to an age long anterior to tlie times when the Inca Tupac conquered the ' Kingdom of Quitu,' and Huayna- C'apac ravaged Iiiilial_)ura. In the course of enquiries for stone implements, many other things were brought, principally pieces of pottery. Metallic ol)jects were rarely offered, and seldom seen. I heard of but a single little image in gold, and this cmild not 111' liail. Silver articles were nearly as scarce. Even bronze and copper antiipiities, when found, are often melted down, from the supposition lliat tlii'v ai'e allnyed witli gold. The annexed figure of the head of a silver pin is an example I if a class which was formerly common and is now rare. The six-rayed star at the bottom of this ]iage,and tlie two hatehets upmi jiage 27S (which were part of a larger 'find' at (.'ueiica) are nearly all that I obtaiiieil in lironze. The popular idea of I'eruvian (Ecuadorian) pottery is derived from the grotesque black ware that is found in most museums. Squier says of this that the greater part has been lirought from the coast districts of northern I'eru.^ I saw little of it in Ecuador, and ' "It i.s safe to s,ay tliat tlirce-fouvtlis of the pottery found in the museums of Kuroiie .and Ameriea, and called Peruvian, came from the coast or near it, and of this probably much the largest portion from tlie rej,'iou ruled by tlie ]irinees of t'liimu" (near Truxillo). — Pn-ii, pp. 177-S. 278 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xiv. such examples as I collected (of black pottery) very likely came into the countiy from tlie soxith. The major part of that which was formerly used ^ 1 >y the Indians dwelling amongst the Great Andes of the Equator has a character of its own, and is distinguislied hy simplicity, and often by elegance of form. It is both glazed and un- glazed ; of various hues of Indian Eed, and different degrees of fine- ness. Some of the older pieces are grey in colour. This old Indian pottery seems to have been ne- glected by other travellers, and I endeavoured to form such a col- lection as should convey an idea of the articles which were fornu'rly in general use. The shapes which seem to have been employed most exten- sively are given in the annexed outline. The bottoms of these xes- sels are flat, roiuided, or pointed. The pointed and rounded Ibrms were convenient for cooking, or for being warmed over fires. The Indi;ins even now are little BRONZE HATCHETS FROM Ct'ENXA. provided with tables, and in tlie past were probably totally un- acquainted with such luxuries. They squatted on the ground, and 1 It is In lie undi'istooil tliat all the utensils, &c., to wliiili 1 am alumt to rol'tr are now superseiled Ijy eoinmon nimlerii pottery. EXAMPLES OF OLD INDISN POTTERY COLLECTED BV THE AUTHOR IN ECUADOR, CHAI-. XIV. FORMty OF UTEXSILS ORDINAIHL Y KMPlJiYED. 279 I'liokcd tlioir I'imkI ii\(T wuod tires; and thusL^ i»iiiited and luuudL'd liiittdnis ti) their utensils,- thougli qxdte nnsuitcd i'oi' placirig'upon suKiutli surt'aees, wimld kocp erect in the eniherw, or niight"^be pressed into the earthen tioor. ■ "^ The natives did -not depend exehisivel} uimn these simple vessels. In the accompanying plate a ntmil)er of the -more" ofdi- SOME OF THE LESS COMMON FORMS. nary I'orins are grou}H'd oi' their pots, IxjwIs, jars, jugs, and Imtt-les. The larger ves.sels, in which the more serious culinary operations would be performed, are provided with feet (see h-k), or even with legs (see figure at the bottom of the illustration on this page). Some have a pair of handles low down (B, M, N, O) that would be 280 TRAVELS AMUNUST THE GREAT AWES. chai'. xiv. convenient in liold wlien pouring out liquids; others have very diminutive liandles liigh up, hy whieli the vessels were probably suspended. The ordinary single handle, seen in E and W, is less often i'dund tiian the ddulile ones. OKNAMKNTATIMN Many oi' these vessels or utensils are without ornament, though some are emltellished by crude representations of the human face (a, B, F, G, W_). Ornamental details, incised, raised, or painted, occa- sionally occur; and a few of the more characteristic aic lirought toLrether in the cnjiravius above. POTTERY WHISTLES. 281 Amongst tlie less coiuiiimi fonus there are treble pots like thfit represented on page 279. As the grouped parts are all connected internally, these can liardly have been family cruet-stands. They were apparently intended to hold liqiuds, and it is difficult to see what advantage can have been derived from this manner of con- struction. Double and treble pots were numerous in Inibaljura ; though I bniught Imme few, for the reason wliicli will appear presently. INDIAN MUSICAL WHISTLES. Then there are the musical pottery whistles — delightfully ugly things, which are sometimes more useful to carry than letters of introduction. Simple airs can be got out of them, and on the homeward journey my people lightened the way b}- playing on these primitive instruments. The most interesting, artistically, of all the olyects in pottery which were obtained in Ecuador have been called 'vase-busts' by Mr. Ewbanlv. In the Eeport on The U.S. Xavnl Astronomical Expedition, from which I have already fpioted, he gave a bad representation of an object of this class ; saying (in 1856), " it is supposed there are not over two or three extant." The four 2o 282 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xiv. examples which appear on the following pages are no doubt the work of four different artists ; and, though all are old, they are by no means of equal age. The idea that any human lieing could haxe his face ornamented with a pointed beard or tiowing moustache did not enter the brain of the Indian modeller until Spanish Dons invaded his continent. The oldest vases never give hair upon the lips or chin ; and, if Ijeards or moustaches are introduced, it is a certain indication that the works ]ia\e been executed subsequently THE DON I'OT. to tlie Spanisli C'imi|uest. This was evidently the case in the piece that I term ' the Don pot.' All three of the other examples shew considerable power in portraying character, and very lil^ely are por- traits of eminent persons. Tlie doulile-headed jar or vase is the finest specimen I have seen of Indian pottery, and I should have lieen happy to have obtained other examples modelled liy tlie same liand. The pottery which is i-epresented on the previous pages was obtained in various wavs, not a little of it coming from old "raves, CHAI'. .\I\'. VASE-nU^Thl.' 283 wliirh were CDiitiimally lieiiig distiirht'il. SefKir Gomez cle la Torn', hearing me lament that I was never alile to lie present at a tind, very kiudly offered to send the entire contents of a grave, and he was as good as his word. The case, however, did not even \vM-\\ (_!naya(inil liefore my depaitnre for Europe ; and, upon arrival in Lmidon, its contents were found to have suffered severely from Panama 'baggage-smashers' and other disturliing influences. Some rounded stones (presumably corn - pounders) had danced about and cannonaded the pottery. After much labour, most of the contents were 'restored,' and they are represented in the engraWng upon page 284.^ ' Dr. W. H. Flower has favoured iiic with the following note: — "The skull I'roni Ibarra is evidently of considerable aiitiijuity, as shewn by the dry and brittle 284 TllAVEL^ AMONGST THE GREAT ANDE^. chap. siv. Somewhat elated by the success of the foray into Iiiil lalinra, we set out from Otovalo on the 2nd of May, to cross Mojanda to T^:-* £:r- THE CONTENTS OF A GRAVE. Quito; intending to make tlie first day a sliort one, ami to stop for the night at the little village IMalchingi.^ The pottery was carefully packed in straw, sulidiAided as much as possible ; and, as there was little other luggage, our attention was almost solely given to the safety of our treasures. condition of its bony tissue. How old, it is of course imjiossible to say, Imt there is nothing in its condition to forbid tlie supposition that it was liurii-d liefore the time of tlie Spanish Conquest. It is, unfortunately, imperfect, the greater part of the cranial vault of the riglit side being broken away, probably in e.xhumation, as the fractures look recent, and the lower jaw and all the teeth are wanting. There is, however, enougli to shew that it belonged to a man beyond middle age, and of considerable muscular development. The general ethnic characters are those frequently found in aboriginal American crania, though it is rather longer and nar- rower (the cephalic index being 76 '6), and the orbits are lower and the nose wider than usual. On com]iaring it with a series of skulls of ancient lluiscas from graves in the neighbourhood of Bogota in the JIuseum of the Royal College of Surgeons, it is evidently of the same general type. Unlike most of the old skulls from the locality near which it was found it presents no sign of artificial deformation during infancy." ' There is a small inn at Malchingi, but between that place and Otovalo there is not, I believe, a single house. The nearest habitation farther west is the Hacienda of Alchipichi, a very large establishment, situated on the south-western slopes of Mojanda, about 1400 feet above the bottom of the Quebrada of tUiallabanilia. The descent to the bridge across the ijuelirada is exceedingly steep. IT ROLLED OVER AND OVER THE SLOPE, AND DISAPPEARED, CHAP. XIV. A SMASH. 285 It was getting late in the afternoon when we passed the lakes on Jlojanda, and commenced the ascent of a long incline leading to tlie sunnnit of the road. The worst of the way was over, and Verity and I pressed forward in advance of the rest, to reach our quarters in good time. Half an hour later, while stop- ping to get some angles, we Iieard shouts hehind, and saw Cevallos running and gesticulating. " How- it happened, Senor, cannot he said. I saw it falling. It has gone over a preci- pice. It is dead ! " One of the mules had met with an accident a few minutes after we left them. Returning together, our arriero, pointing to the place where the fall had happened, said that tlie animal liad rolled over and over down the slope and disappeared. "We coidd see nothing of it ; for the sitle of the mountain (a commonplace dechvity of earth and houlders) was hrukeu in some places hy irregularities. Cevallos and ^'erit}' descended to searcli, and reappeared with rueful faces, carrying a hundle of clothing saturated with sHme, driving hefore them our unhnpjiy, tottering Ijeast, who after tuml)ling head over heels for a hundred feet had shot over a cliff ahout eighty feet high, and had heen pulled up in a muddy pool imderneath. Beyond knocking the Ijreath out of its hody, and losing tlie tip of one of its ears, it toiik no liarm. But the packing-cases had burst: tlie family soup-tureens, the double and treble pots, and other precious rehcs of a past civilization, THE INXA VASE. 286 TUAVELH AMUNGHT THE GREAT AXIJES. chap. xiv. bounding down the declivity, had been hopelessly smashed into thousands of fragments, and we aljandoned the wreck of our fragile treasures on the dreary paramo. When night fell we were still some hours from Malchingi, stumbling and floundering among ruts and camdloncs. The others implored me to stop, and we dropped down and camped in a muddy ditch on the open moorland. I have reposed on better and cleaner couches ; though, after all, a muddy ditch is not the worst of Ijeds — one soon Ijecomes attached to it. At Malchingi the dilapidated mule was left to I'ecruit, and I pushed on to Quito — Cevallos fullnwing at his leisure; and arrived at the Capital at 10 p.m. on the ovA of May, feeling more dead than alive, and looking, I was told, ' tit for the grave.' THE MUi\L\-Uo\. LA CONDAMINES INSCKrHED STONE. CHAPTEE XV. A VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS OF QUITO. A FEW' days after our retiu'U, Jeaii-Antoine came in from Machachi, reporting that he and liis cousin had ascended Illiniza from the north, in witness whereof he presented samples of the highest Louis remainrd at tlie tauiho of Antonio Kacines, ' ''Rough scoriaceous rock. . . In oue specimen is an iircgular brandling tube or vein, coated with a dull gi'eenish or Ijrowuish glass, which I suspect to be a fulgurite. I liave only had a slice cut from the specimen broken from the rock in silii. It is not in a good condition for examination, but consists, so far as I can make out, of a ferritc-stained glass, containing crystals of the usual plagioclastic 288 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GEE AT ANDES. chap. xv. keeping guard over stores, and enjoj'ed a (|uiet month alone, improving much in appearance and condition. My stomach had gone all wrong,^ as people say, and repose was necessary for restoration to health. During the next five weeks I went little out of doors, except for promenades in the city, and before we left it I had explored every street, lane, or alley in the place. Jean-Antoine and I turned out each evening to do a fresh section, walking warily in the centre of the thoroughfares, one a little in advance of the other. By ten o'clock nearly every one had gone to bed, and scarcely a sound would lie heard except the voices of policemen bawling at the junctions of the streets, to announce their whereabouts. In the middle of the month, when somewhat revived, I made an excursion to the Pyramids which should mark the ends of the long base-line that was measured in 1736 by La Condamine and his associates. In consequence of discussions which liad arisen as to the figure of the Earth, the French Academy of Sciences, at the beginning of the last century, determined to send out two expedi- tions to measure arcs at a great distance apart. One of these went to the Gulf of Bothnia, and tlie other, composed of MM. Godin, Bouguer, and La Condamine, to Equatorial America. They com- menced their work on a plain to the north-east of Quito, by measuring a very long base-line, and from its two ends carried a chain of triangles^ (to the nortli beyond Ibarra, and lo the south to Cuenca) over more than three degrees of latitude. Towards the end of their work they measured a base of verification near Cuenca, and found its length by direct measurement differed from the calculated length by less than two feet ! The toise that the Frencli Academicians took out as an miit of felspar, with a ferruginous mica, grains of liematite or maguetite. . . The rock is an andesite, but perhaps it is safest only to prefix the epithet micaceous." — Prof. T. G. Bonney, Proc. Eoyal Soc, Nov. 27, 1884. ' This was started by exposure on March 31. - A plan of these triangles is given in V\. II. of La Condamiue's work, Mcsiirc des trois premiers dcgi-is dii Miridicn, 4to, Paris, 1751, and also 1iy .Tuan and Tlloa. THE PYRAMIDS OF QUITO. 289 uieasui'c was a bar of iiou, ami it lias ever since been known as ' the toise of Peru.' Guyot, in his vahiable work Tables Meteoro- lojkal and Fltysical, in a discussion of tlie \'arious measures of length most generally used, says that "it may almost be called the only common standard, to which all the others are referred for comparison " ; " the legal metre is a legalised part of the toise of Peru, and this last remains the primitive standard." PLAN, SECTION, AND ELEVATION OF THE PYRAMIDS ERECTED BY THE ACADEMICIANS. (From Hisloire des Pyramides de Quito,) As the measurement of the first base-line (upon which all the rest of the work depended) was intended to be, and apparently was, conducted with the greatest possible care, it was natm-al that the Academicians desired that its length should Ije preserved, and that the two ends shoidd lie marked by nioiiunii'uts of a permanent nature. This matter had, in fact, lieen discussed and settled before the obser\-ers left Paris, and upon the spot La Coudamiiie specially 2p 290 TRAVELfi AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xv. charged himself with directing the erection of two pyramids, one at each end of the base. In the section of the work ^ on his laljours in Ecnador entitled Hisioirc des Pyramides dc Quito, he recounts the difficulties that he experienced in this matter; how he fixed the centres of the pyramids most accurately over the two ends of the measiu-ement ; how he had to make his own bricks (which he took care should be of a size different from those usually employed, so that there might be no temptation to pull the monuments to pieces for the sake of their materials) ; how he had to construct a canal two leagues long to bring water for making mortar; and how stones had to be sought for and transported long distances on mule-ljack — thi.s })art of the business alone, he says, occupying several months, as a single stone often made a load. Then, in the case of the pyramid at the northern end, he found there was no solid foundation, and he had to create one by pile-driving, to search for wood fit for the piles, to bring workmen from Quito to fashion them, and to get them driven. But the thing above all others wliicli ga-\-e hmi most trouljle was finding, dressing, and transportmg suitaljle stones for the Inscriptions. These stones were quarried in a ravine some hundreds of feet deep, and had to be hauled out by ropes, wliich had to be specially made ; and then at the last moment the ropes broke, one of the stones was dashed to pieces, and they had to begui over again. Wlien at last all was complete, then there was mfinite worry over the Inscriptions ; for the French Academicians had associated with them two Spanish naval gentlemen, who took exception to the phraseology, for the sake of their Eoyal Master, and on their own accoimt, &c., &c. At last all was settled and finished, and La Condamine returned to Paris, via the Amazons, arri\-ing in 1745, after an alisence of ten years, no doubt finding consolation in the thought that lie had done a splendid piece of work, wliich could be referred to in generations to come, liy means of these munumeiits. ' JoHiiial du Voynrjc fail par ordrc du J!oi, &c., 4to, Pari.s, 17S1. CHAP. XV. DESTRUCTIOX OF THE PYRAMID^^. 291 Towards the l'IuI (if 1747 lie lieanl casually Lliut (Hileis had lioeu given Ijy the Cuurt of Spain to erase the jiyraniids, and this order was carried ont Liefore he had time to interpose. In the pages to which I have referred he bemoans their fate, and recapitulates the details of their construction in a way which will almost raise a smile with those who do not know the country ; liut so little is this country changed that the account reads like a narration of operations which have just been conducted, rather than a relation of things which happened a century and a half ago. He especially laments the supposed destruction of the two great stones bearing the inscriptions, l>ut concludes in the spirit of a true man by declaring tliat all such thmgs are of no importance in comparison with the loss of the measure of the base, — "that length, which I had taken so much trouble to preserve, is now lost for ever." La Coudamine heard subsequently that orders were given for the reinstatement of the pyramids, though he probably never knew whether they were actually re-erected. When I was at Quito I felt a strong desire to learn what was then.' state, and to find out, if possible, whether they occupied the same positions as before. My friend, Seiior Eafael Eebolledo, heard of my enquiries, and told me that there was on a farm at no great distance from one of his properties to the north-east of Quito a stone which he believed was part of the original pyramid of Oyambourou, and he invited me to go over to examine it. On the loth of May, 1880, we rode over to his fiirm of Olalla, close to the little town of Pifo, and on the next day went to in.spect the stone. It was about four feet long and six inches tliick, placed in the middle of one side of the courtyard, and was used as a mounting-ljlock. There had been an inscription upon it, but it was completely worn out in the centre Ihmugh the use to whicli it had lieen put. At its two ends some letters could still be made out, and going down on hands and knees to compare them with the printed description that I carried, which gives the original inscription line liy line, I found that it was the 292 TltAVELS AMONUHT THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xv. very great stone wliich La Coiulamiue had taken so nnich trouble to procure, whose loss he had so pathetically lamented. The pyramid (of Oyambaro or Oyamliouron) which now approximately marks the southern end of the liase is aljout 1000 THE P^R\■\I1D OF (.\AMI\RO IM l8So feet distant from tlie place where the stone reposes, situated in a field of maize ; and is neither the origuial pyramid nor tlie one which was erectctl to replace it. I was informed on tlie spot that it was put up about thirty years earlier by a I'resident of Ecuador, wlio so little appreciated the purpose foi- which it was originally designed that he mo\-ed it some hundreds of feet on one side, in order, he said, that it miyht he letter seen. The traditional site of the original pyramids of Oyambourou was iiointed out to nu', but I found no trace of them. The pyramid at the northern end of the base (Pyramid of Carabourou) was just visilile as a speck of light, and on the next day I went to it, and founil the stnicture there in just such a position as the original one is said to have occupied, at the very edge of the great ravine of Guallabamba, though whether it stands on the original site I am (piite unable to say. The labours of the CHAP. xv. NO GBEDIT JFAS GIVEN. 293 Acadoiuiciaus aiv tlaTefore, in a I'asliiuu, still coiumomorated ; liut the length of the base, as La Condamme feared, is uow lost for ever. The latter part of the mouth of May was prmcipally occupied iu arranging and despatching the collections. I re-examined, labelled, catalogued and packed more than 8000 sepai'ate objects, and succeeded in sending them to the coast, carriage itnpaid. These were found awaiting me, while a few other cases which were forwarded some weeks later from Eiobamba, carriage paid, were very tardy in making their appearance, and caused a fort- night's detention at Guayaquil. It is the usual habit in the country to pay for carriage in advance, and the carriers have then- customers at their mercy. The establishment of a system of transit which shall be fair to both sides is a general want, that affords another great opportunity to persons of enterprize. As our faces were uow going to be set homewards, and a toleraljly close estimate could be formed of the food and other matters that would be required, surplus stock was cleared out. I took a hundred Pounds over the counter in three days, and incurred no bad debts. The siiccess of this (my first) essay at storekeeping was no doubt due to some lines that I saw on ' the Isthmus ' (said to have been composed by a Californian miner of unusual literary ability), beaded No Trust given, which in 1880 were exposed in a prominent position just outside the llailway Station at Panama, and probably remain there still, as they were looked upon with admiration, and were considered to embody a great truth, in extremely felicitous language.^ Some of these goods were purchased by tiie amiable Hebraic Yankee. In the interstices of the provision cases all sorts of things which it was supposed might be useful were stowed away, — amongst the rest, each tin contained a little pill-box, and each box ' The style of this composition may lie iiil'eneil from the tirst line — "To TRUST is to BUST." The reiiiaiiiiiij; lines are unfit for these pages. 294 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xv. held three little pills, and every unit was sufficient to eifect its pui'pose. There were a hundred or so boxes to be got rid of, and the Jew was eager to trade fur them. "Now I\Ir. ," said I, as they were handed over, " each of these little treasures is warranted to do its work." But he was suspicious ; and, on going home, took the contents of a box, and subsequently took to his bed. I heard all about it, and went to see him, expecting to find him doleful. " Sorry to hear you are ill, Mr. . Have you tried those pills ? " and found that he was delighted with his bargain. " Eeal fine medicuie that ! Mister," he exclaimed, ahuost rapturously, " there's no mistake about that medicine ! " These matters arranged, we were ready to start ; before leaving paying another visit to the President of the Eepublic, this time under the care of H.E. the Chilian IMinister, Senor J. Godoy.^ General Veiuteniilla again encpiired if there was anything lie could do tor me, and I asked for an Official statement of the Provinces and Chief Towns of Ecuador. The IMinister of Haciendas, who was present, undertook to furnish this informa- tion, and did not do so. It has, however, quite recently been published by the Foreign Office, in the Bepm-t from Mr. Alfred St. John, dated Quito, July 14, 1891, and is given below." ^ I take this opportunity to aclvuowledge a nunilier of civilities which were voluntarily and very cordially rendered by this aeeoniplislied Chilian, who almost immediately afterwards was appointed Prefect ol' Lima, on the occupation of that city by his countrymen. Provinces. Popalatiou. Provinces. Population. Carchi . . 36,000 Loja . 66,456 Imbabura . 67,940 Bolivar . . 43,000 richincha . 205,000 Rios . 32,800 Leon . 109,600 Oro . 32,600 Tuiiijuraliua. . 103,033 G nay as . . 9S,042 Chimborazo . . 122,300 JIanabi . . 64,123 Canar . . 64,014 Esmeraldas . . 14,553 Azuay . . 132,400 Oriente . . 80,000 Total . . 1,271,861. Mr. St. John says "the following list sliows the population of the chief towns, which has been calculated aipproxiniately," and adds, ■'The taking of a census in CHAP. XV. THE DEATH OF VEBITY. 295 During tlie remainder of the jonrney we travelled under tlie auspices of a fresh interpreter -courier. ~Sl\. ^'erity lia\ing left nie, I engaged in his place a Quitonian, a half-Indian, Francisco Javier Canijiaiia by name, who had tendered his services on several occasions. Verity, not long afterwards, was accidentally killed at Eiobamba. Robberies were frequently occurring there, and some of the more decent inhabitants endeavoured to put them down by patrolling the place at night. Two of these parties met at the corner of a street, fired into each other, and Verity fell, mortally wounded. Upon leaving Quito on June 7, it was understood that every- thing would be subordinateil to a second ascent of Chimborazo, though if there was tune and opportimity it was intended to give some attention to Illiniza, Altar, and Carihuairazo. A few miles on the road, we came upon a small knot of people who had assemliled to bid oiu" new interpreter forewell ; including his wife, who cried, and screamed, and fell on his neck as if he were going to execution. I am told that amongst the Indians a display of grief upon the departure of a husband is cpiite the correct thing, but am unaware whether his return usually produces a corresponding amount of joy. Ecuador is a matter of the gi-eatest difficulty, owing to the fact that the Indian.s, wlio form a great part of the population, refuse to give the necessary particulars." Quito, 50,000 ! Guayaquil, 45,000 ; Cuenca, 25,000; Riobamlia, 12,000 ! Ambato, 10,000 ; Loja, 10,000 ; Latacuuga, 10,000 ! Ibarra, 6000 ; Jipipapa, 5000 ; Otovalo, 5000 ; Porto-viejo, 5000 ; Guaranda, 4000 ; Tulcan, 3000. In tins list, Cotocaehi (a larger place than Otovalo) is not mentioned. The Priest informed me in 1S80 that there were 5000 Indians and 3000 whites in his parish. As the above is an Official statement, I only express my sur[irise at the increase in the population since 1880 by a few notes of admiration. V A STAMPEDE. CHAPTER XVI. UPON A WALK ON THE QUITO ROAD, A\D A JOURNEY TO ALTAI!. Our new courier was a little creature, who rode a diniimitive animal, and so they were well matched ; l)ut the unhappy beast had also to carry a huge Mexican saddle wliich was as much as his master could Kft — garnished as it was with many appendages, including the fashional >le metal ' shoe-stirrups.' Campaiia aspired to look commc il fauf, and wore the orthodox buskms, with several ponchos one on top of the other, and tossed the tails of his com- forter behind so that they might tioat in the wind, and shew his carved drinking-cuj), which together with the macheta are outward and visible signs of respectaljility. Let it be said for the little man that \inder his auspices we travelled more rapidly, more pleasantly and economically tlian liefore. Xo unlawful gains went into his pockets, and he was an excellent interpreter. We got away from Machachi on the 8th of June to make an- CHAP. XVI. BEPULi^ED AGAIN. 297 otlier attempt to scale lUiniza, proceeding .S(nitli for about five miles along the high road, and then turning south-westwards (through tlie yards of a farm just past the Bridge of Jambeli) across some flat, open ground (which hj Ecuadorians would be called paramo and in EngKsh Common or J\Ioorland) steering towards the depres- sion Ijetween the two peaks.' David Beltrau had got a pet Llama, which was Ijorrowed experimentally tor this occasion, and it trotted alongside our party without giving trouble, wearing au expression of demure self-satisfaction on its face, as if perpetually sapng to itself " Gentlemen, see how well I go ! Look how nicely I behave ' " It was loaded with the photograpliic apparatus and other small matters, amounting in all to about 24 \h%., and carried that amount easily. Camped at 4 p.m. slightly lower than the Col between Great and Little Illiniza, against a large block of lava,^ at a very liiire and exposed spot (15,446 feet); and sent all, except the CarreLs, 2000 feet lower, down to wood and water. Snow fell lieavily during the night, and it Itlew hard from E.S.E. Mm. temp. 26" -5 Faht. In the morning, the first part of our way led over moderately inclined debris, and then up the rather ill-defined northern arete. At 8.30 a.m. we clearly overtopped Little Illiuiza,^ and about 9 came to the foot of the termmal cliff of glacier which crowns the summit of the main peak. Depositing here the mercurial baro- meter and other impedimenta, we quitted the arete and commenced a traverse of the eastern face, over ice -varnished ledges, beneath a canopy of icicles that garnished the crest of the ridge. " Let ' Immense numbers of the butterfly Pkris .vaiithmlice, Lucas, were flying over tliis ground. - ''A moderately dark-gi'ey, slightly vesicular, 'trachyte.' . . There are the usual gi'anules of magnetite, and some minute colourless crystallites which may he apatite. . . The rock is a liornbleudic augite-andesite, containing also some mica and hy[iersthene. " — Prof. T. G. Bonney, Proc. Royal Soc., Nov. 27, 1884. ' As the greatest height we reached on this day appeared to be 16,992 feet, I think the elevation assigned by Messrs. Reiss & Stiibel to Little Illiniza (16,936 feet) is loo much. See page 131. 2q 298 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xvi. Monsieur advance a little," said Jean-Antoine, and I crept up to him and looked over his shf}ulder. " We shall go there," he said, pointing to the declivity under the top of tops (surmounted liy a cap of glacier and fruige of pendent icicles) where thickly-falling snow, unahle to lodge, was frisking and gyrating, and sliding down in streams. " Carrel," I replied, " we will not go there " ; and I went liack to Machachi feeling very sore from this second repulse on lUiniza.^ As the nature of the work upon the two attempts to ascend this mountain was very similar (being a mixture of steep walking, actual climbing, and step-cutting in ice and snow), I was curious to compare our ascending rates upon these two occasions. I found that on the 9th of February one hundred and eighty-seven minutes were occupied in going from the camp (15,207 feet) to our highest point (17,023 feet). The rate of ascent therefore was 9-7 feet per minute. On the 9th of June, one hundred and fifty minutes wei-e taken in ascending 1476 feet, and the rate, consequently, was 9'8 feet per minute. From this it appeared that there was no notable change in our condition, either in the way of amelioration or depreciation, in the four months that had elajised between Feb. 9 — June 9, during which time we had always been higher than 7000 feet above the level of the sea, and on several occasions ' Left camp 6.20 a.m. (temp. 32° Faht., blowing hard from N.E. ), and took a general S.W. by S. conr.se towards the liigliest point. Rocks glazed witli ice, and nnpleasant to toncli. Followed the route taken by the Carrels at the beginning of May, but had they not well marked the route we should have been unable to advance. Seldom saw more than 200 yards in any direction. At 9.30 a.m., after reading barometer and collecting rocks, went back to camp, snow Ailling most of the way. Returned to Machachi by 7 p.m. The Carrels said that their ascent was made in fine weather, and that they took an hour and a lialf over the last 200 feet. In the interval, the cornice at the summit, they said, had developed prodigiously. On the 9tli of June it was composed of an enormous mass of icicles, fifty feet and upwards in length, which broke away from time to time, and fell over their line of ascent. There was more risk than I eared to encounter from the high w'ind, cold, and insecure footing on glazed rocks, raked by these falls from the overhanging cornice. CHAP. XVI. .4 JrALK ON THE QUITO HOAD. 299 hud experienced pressures lotver than IG'5 inches (the pre.ssure at the second camp on Chimborazo). It seemed probable that we liad ascertained the worst that would happen to us, ■provided ive did not have to sustain still lower 2Jrcssurcs. This does not, however, at all inform one whether our rate upon lUiniza was inferior to that which we should have attained upon the mountain if it had been placed at a lower level (that is to say, if a higher pressure had been experienced whilst ascending), and on this point there is very little enlightenment to be obtained by comparing the lUiuiza rate with tlie rates of other persons upon equally elevated mountains in different parts of the world ; for the difficulties presented upon mountain ascents vary so much as to make it nearly, or quite impossible to select any two upon which one might expect to attain precisely the same rate. The ascent of the Tetons, for example, cannot lie compared with that of Pike's Peak, or the Aiguille du Dru with Altels. The natures of these mountains are dissimilar ; and, in order to arrive at anything ' like just conclusions concerning the effects of diminished pressure, comparisons must be made between walks of a similar nature, taken under similar conditions. This brings me to what I consider one of the most interesting incidents of the journey, namely, a walk taken on the Quito road, at an elevation of about 10,000 feet, for comparison against a similar walk slightly above the sea-level. Before starting for the Great Andes of the Equator, I had considered in what manner one might best determine whether diminution in atmospheric pressure weakened the bodily powers; and no method appeared so practicable as comparison, at different pressures, of the natural and habitual rate of walking. The simplicity of this idea may perhaps excite ridicule amongst those who are not aware of the regularity with wliicli it is possible to walk, and of the precision with wliich a pedestrian may estimate his rate. Even amongst those who follow pedestrianism profes- sionally, there are probably few who will admit the possibility 300 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. svi. of walking three miles without a greater difterence than three seconds between any of the miles. Ne\'ertheless it can be done, and by constant oljservation one may guess the rate, without reference to a watch, within a few seconds. In 1879, my habitual pace when walking for exercise and in ordinary dress (not racing m airy costume) was well ascertained. I often walked a numl^er of consecutive miles at aboiit eleven minutes per mile. This was my natural and ordinary rate, and it was not necessary to go over a measured mile to learn it. But, in order that it might be verified, before leaving for Ecuador, I walked seven miles on the Lillie Bridge Ground, Bromptou, and had the time per mile noted by two attendants. In Ecuador, I looked for the most level piece of road at a considerable elevation, and found nothing more suitable than the Quito road aliout two miles south of Macliachi, where it was per- fectly straight, and slightly descending towards the north. On this I measured a half-mile with Jean-Antoine, and placed tlie cousins at tlie two ends as witnesses and timekeepers. The same dress was used as before (ordinary wallcing dress, and heavy mount- ain boots). I i'ound the time per mile was increased 54 seconds. Tlii.s will be seen Ijy comparing the statements given below. At Lillie Biiilye Oii the Quito Road Grounds, Brompton, (9925 feet above sea-level), Aug. 6, 1879. June 11, ISSO. mill. sec. mill. sec. First Mile . 10 45 11 13 Sfcond „ 11 12 32 Third „ . 10 58 12 3 Fourtli „ . 10 59 12 13 Fifth „ . 11 14 12 11 Sixth „ . 11 18 11 35 Sevenfli „ 11 11 Total time 77 25 71 47 Mean rate per mi le 1 1 4 (nearly) 11 58 (nearly) Jliix. tump, dmiuf; walk 67°-5 Faht. 60°- 5 Faht. lliii. „ 64°-0 „ 49°-0 „ Mean , , , , 65°-75 „ 54°-75 ,, AVind . . S.S.W . (force 3-5) ; |,'ii,sty S.S.E. (force 3-4) CHAP. XVI. DEPRECIATED. 301 Oil L'aeli ut' these occasions, tlie first mile was iiiteiitiijiially traversed at a quicker pace than the rest. Over the remainder (with the exception of the last mile at Macliachi), at each place, I endeavoured to walk at exactly the same rate, mile per mile, and at Brompton did the next three miles in 11 min., 10..58 and 10.59 respectively. In the fifth and sixth miles heavy rain fell, and caused a marked diiiiiuutinn in the rate, whicli was improved in the last mile with 1)etter weather, and I left off feeling that another seven miles could certainly have been covered in less time. Although endeavouring to accomplish the first mile on the Quito road at the same rate as in L(.iiid(iii, it tnok nearly half a minute longer, and the difference was larger on the second one.^ The next three miles were walked at a tolerably regular pace, and I quickened up on the sixth, and left off feehng tliat I could scarcely improve the rate, and certainly could not walk another six miles in 71 min. 47 seconds.- It is nearly impossible upon two such occasions to have the conditions exactly alike. At Machachi there were the advantages of being 10 lbs. lighter than in Lmidoii and walking with tempera- ture 11 Faht. cooler, and the disadccmtage of being impeded by traffic. In London, though the track was kejit clear, there was the disadvantage (during part of the time) of walking in dragging clothes, soaked with rain. ^\.ll things considered, tlie conditions were pretty evenly balanced : and, as I am unable to assign the depreciation in my ordinary and lialiitual rate to any other cause, ' This was partly caused by liaviiig to pass three times tliroiigli a large flock of sheep. " Before this walk at JIachaehi mj- temperature was 98°'5 Faht., and 9S°"4 35 minutes after it was over. Pulse before the walk 73, and 101 half an hour after it was over. [M. Paul Bert has shewn that, when sitting still, the rate of the pulse can be raised by reduction of pressure. See Appendix J,] Some years later, after walking six miles at a much faster rate, on a measured half-mile on a Surrey road with a gradient selected to correspond with that on the Quito road, I found that my pulse was only raised from 72 '5 (mean of two minutes) to flfi (mean of four minutes). Owing to the failure of a medical gentleman to keep his ajipointUK'nt, my pulse and temperature were not observed on Aug. 6, 1879. 302 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT AXDES. chap. xvi. I consider it was due to the fact that ou the 11th of June, on the Quito road, atmospheric pressure was a Little over 21 inches, instead of the 29 — 30 inches to which I was accustomed. Some persons ^ disbeheve iu the reaUty of mountain-sickness, and seem rehictaut to credit that human lieings can be affected by diminution in atmospheric pressure, and to them, perhaps, this experiment will prove nothing. As regards myself, it appeared to me to be conclusive that a marked effect was produced, and an effect of a kind which I had never suspected at corresponding altitudes (pressures) in the Alps, where there was no possibility of applying a similar test.^ On the 12th of June we finally left Machachi, and marched (without change of animals) in three successive days to Latacunga,^ Ambato, and Eiobaml>a. The Jovial IMan (who had sometimes been a cause of emliarrassment) was replaced by a strong and very wilhug lad, named Domingo — otherwise the caravan was composed as before. The 15th was consumed in preparations for Altar, and in enquiries as to route. After balancing a numlier of opinions, it 1 Including Men of Science. Prof. Piazzi Smyth, F.R.SS. L. & E., etc., etc., says in liis Tencriffc, an Astronomer's Experiment, at pp. 381 -2, " If a windlass or a treadmill were erected in London, and a gentleman in easy circumstances set some fine morning to perform at one of these ingenious machines, an amount of work, equal to the mechanical task of raising his own weight up through the Iieight of 10,000 feet perpendicular iu seven hours, — I believe that, though breathing air, of a density of thirty mercurial inches, he would be distressed as much as the traveller who, by ascending a mountain, performs the same." The remainder of the passage should be read. " It would be interesting if pedestrians, who have ascertained to a nicety the times within which they have frequently covered such distances as one hundred yards or a mile, would endeavour to repeat their performances on the flat pieces of road which can be found at the tops of some of the Alpine carriage passes. ^ In returning from Machachi to Latacuuga, we took the old road, past Mulalo, on the left bank of the Cutuchi, and visited the so-called Inca's house which is situated a short distance to the south of Callo. The small amount of the original stnioture still remaining has been embodied in some modern farm-buildings. The stones were finely dressed, and fitted without mortar or cement. I saw none measuring more than 18x12x12 inches. CHAP. xvr. THE MASTER OF CANDELARIA. 303 was decided to proceed via Peiiipe, and we went to that place ou June 16, leaving part of our animals at Eiobanilui to recruit.^ At I'enipe, the Jefo-politico was also the village tailor. He administered the law and mended trousers alternately ; and created a favourable impression on five minutes' acquaintance, after declar- ing, according to the manner of the country, that his house was ours, by adding with uncommon frankness, "Imt, Sefior, I wnuld recommend you not to go in-doors, for the fleas are numerous, and I think your Excellencies would be uncomfortable ! " Having obtained some information from him, we went on in the afternoon to a small hacienda called Candelaria, a miserably poor place, where nothing eatalile could lie had ; and, being advised that mules could not be used much farther, negotiated transport with several young louts who were loafing about. For eighteen- pence each per day, and food, four of them agreed to go to the end of their world — that is to say, to the head of the Valley of CoUanes. The master of this ragged team could hardly be distinguished from his men. He was a young fellow of three or four and twenty, who wore a tattered billycock hat, and no shoes or stockings. His very sad countenance probably had some connection with his obvious poverty. The farm could scarcely have been more bare of food. There was general want of everything — of ycrla for the beasts, who had to go back for forage ; for ourselves there was nothing; and food for the porters had to be fetched from a dis- tance and sent up after ns. The master volunteered to come on the same terms as his men, and to this I consented, on condition that he ivorkcd ; though feeling that it was somewhat out of place to have one of the great landed proprietors of the country in my traui. This shoeless, stockingless, and almost sans-culottian youth ' Riobamba probably covers nearly as much ground as tjuito. Its iiriueipal Plaza is large, and the streets are made of very unusual width, as a iirecaution in case of earthquakes. For the same reason the houses mostly consist of one floor only. It had an empty and deserted air, and in 1880 cannot, I think, have contained more than 7000 inhabitants. 304 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xvi. claimed (I am informed, truly) to be the absolute owner of a princely domain. His land, he said, stretched from Candelaria to the Volcano Sangai. In the vicinity of the farm its boundaries were defined, "but elsewhere" (said with a grand sweep of the hand) " it extended as far as you could go to the east." At a moderate estimate, he owned three hundred square miles. On the 17th of June, in two hours from the farm, we came to a patch of open ground in the middle of a forest, and the Master of Candelaria, who acted as guide, said mules could go no foither. Cevallos was left here with the animals, while we continued on foot, traversing at first a dense wood, which was impenetrable until three men with machetas had cleared a way, and then 800 very steep feet up the buttress of an alp.^ This Ijrought us to a track winding, at a high elevation, along the northern side of the Valley of Collaues. At the latter part of the day we crossed from the right to tlie left liank of the valley, and encamped (at 12,540 feet) in a little patch of trees, close to the foot of the highest peak of Altar. This valley of (Jtillanes was well watered. Kain fell all tlie way, and during nearly the wliole of the succeeding four days. Its slopes were adapted for grazing, deep with luxuriant gi-ass, yet without a house, or hut, or sign of Hfe. " Wliy are there uo cattle here ? " " No money," rephed the youth, gloomily. " Well," said Jean-Antoine, " if / had tliis valley I would make a fortune." Wlien returning, we asked the Master if he would sell some of this land, pomting out a tract about six miles long by three or four broad — say twenty square miles, and he answered in the affirmative. " For liow much ? " He reflected a little, and said " one hundred pesos." " For three hundred and fifty francs, C'airel, the land is yours ! " It was just one fixrthiug per acre. As he was so moderate, I thought of bujang Altar for mj'self, and asked what ' There were some very steep bits on this journey ; — from the Bridge of Pcuipe to the village (about 350 feet) ; between Penipe and Candelaria, 950 feet in one con- tiuuou.s ascent ; and then the 800 feet mentioned above. The track in the Valley of Collaues itself was more level and less undulating than usual. CHAP. xvr. AT CAMP IX THE VALLEY OF C'OLLAXE^. 305 he wmiUl tako for tlio wlmle iiiountain. "No! no! he wuukl not sell at any price." " Why not ? " He was reluctant to answer. "Why will you nut sell Altar?" "Because there is much treasure The treasures of Allar liave yet to be discovered. The mount- ain is an extinct Volcano, having a crater in the form of a horse-shoe (larger than that of Cotopaxi), open towards the west; '0^ ^^^'Wi^^^^ AT CAMP IN THE VALLEY OF COLLANES. with an irregular lim, carrying some of the finest rock peaks in Ecuador. The culminating point ^ is on the southern, and the second peak (which is only slightly inferior in elevation to the highest poLut) lies opposite to it on the northern side of the crater. The walls of the cirque are exceedingly rugged, with much snow, and the floor is occupied liy a glacier, which is largely fed by falls from ' hanging-glaciers ' on the surrounding slopes and cliffs. The ' According to L;i Coudaminc its height is 17,4.58 feet ; Reiss k StUl)el say 17,730 feet. It is jirobalily the ffth in rank of the Great Andes of tlie Equator. 2r 306 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chai>. xvi. highest peak rises about 3500 feet above the apparent floor of the crater in chfis as precipitous as tlie steepest part of the Eiglier. June 18. In Camp in the Valley of Collanes. Fuiding that we were nearly under tlie highest peak, and (from such glimpses as could be obtained through the clouds) that there was very little chance of an ascent lieing effected from the inside of the crater, I sent off J.-A. Carrel at 5.30 a.m. with two of tlie porters to examine the outside, and Louis with another to the outside of the second peak. Soon after mid-day Jean-Antoine returned, and reported unfavouraljly ; and at 4 p.m. Louis came back, saying he had no view of the second summit during the whole Aaj, but thought we could go as far as he had seen.^ Determined to shift camp to the north side of the luountain, outside the crater, if weather would permit. Min. temp, this night was 33°' 5, and on the 17th, 29° Faht. June 19. In Camp in the Valley of Colleines. High wind from the south-east nearly lilew the tent over in the night, though it was well protected by trees. At daybreak there was a hard gale, and we were unable to move the camp. All the peaks of Altar were clouded, and nuich new snow had fallen on the lower crags. ' They brought back i-ock samples from the highest pohits which were reaehccl. I judge, from the aneroids supplied to them, that Jeau-Antoine's party got to about 15,500 feet on the south side of the highest point, and Louis' to about 14,500 feet on the north-west .side of the second summit. In regard to the specimen broken by Jean-Antoine from rock in situ Prof. Bonney says (Proc. Royal Soc, Nov. 2", 1S84), — "A very dark compact rook, with fairly numerous specks of a greyish felspar, and with occasional minute vesicles. Under the microscope the ground-mass is found to be a glass, in itself almost colourless, but so crowded with opacite as to appear almost opaque with low powers ; in fact its trne structure can only be seen in very thin sections and with high powers. . . It is a little difficult to decide whether to retain this rock in the augite-andesites, or to term it a basalt." The rock from the northern peak of Altar is "a reddish -grey trachyte, studded with cry.stals of rather glassy white felspar, roughly about '1 inch diameter, and containing some minute vesicles. The giound-mass appears to be a clear glass, with numerous lath-like crystallites of felspar, but is so thickly crowded with ferrite and opacite, especially the former, ns to be all liut oiiaipu' cxce])t in the thinnest jiart of the section. . . The rock is an angiteandcsitc, prolial)ly containing some hj'pcrsthenc. " CII.M'. XVI. AXOTHER SARA-UKCU.' 307 Same sUite of things continued all da}-, ^^'ind thopped at niglit. Min. temp, again 33°- 5 Faht. AVatched for the peaks all day. Saw that the highest point near its summit was guarded hy pinnacles as steep as the AiguUle du l)ru. The face towards the north carried several hanging- glaciers. Frer^ueutly heard the roars of avalanches tumbhng from them on to the glacier in the crater, the true bottom of which probably hes several hundred feet below the ice. This crater- glacier, in advancing, falls over a steep wall of rock at the head of tiie Valley of Collanes, in a manner somewhat similar to the Tschingel Glacier in the Gasteren Thai. Some of the ice breaks away in slices, and is re-compacted at the base of the cliff, while part maintains the continuity of the upper plateau with the fallen and smashed fragments. This connecting link of glacier (seen in fnint) appears to descend almost vei'tically. June 20. From Camp in the Valley of Collanes to Camj) in the Valleij of Naranjal. Broke up camp and left at 7.25 a.m. ; crossed a small ridge running out of the north-west end of the crater, and descended iuto the Valley of Naranjal. Spied a Ijig rock surrounded by small trees, and camped against it (13,053 feet). The Valley of Naranjal skirts the outside of Altar on the north. AVas told that in sis hours it would bring one to the village of Utunac. The second peak of Altar was almost exactly due East of camp. In afternoon went with Jean-Antoine to the crest of the ridge on the north of our valley, to try to make out a route and for angles to fix our position. Descended after waituig two hours and seeing nothing. Great quantities of smoke rising from the bottom of our valley. Found camp nearly surrounded by flames — -Louis Carrel having set fire to the grass to annise himself. All hands had t(i work for an hour to beat out the flames and cut down bushes, and we nari'owly escaped bemg burnt out. Continued windy and misty all night, and nothing could be seen. " This is going to be another Sara-urcu," groaned Jean-Antoine, whose 308 TliAVELS AMUNUtiT THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xvi. thoughts were in the Val Tdunianche. Miii. tciiqi. in iiiglit 34° Taht. June 21. Fro7n Cam-p in Valley of Naranjal to Pcuipc. Settled overnight to return to lUobainlia if there was no inijirove- nient in the weatlier. In nwrning, as liefore, fog riglit down to bottom of \-alley, with steady drizzle. ]\Iaster of Candeluria said this was the regular thing, and gave no hope of iniiiroveuieiit. Waited a little, and got occa- sional glimpses of second sunnnit. Saw a liurri- cane was blowing near the top, tlie snow curling and eddying round in tourmcntcs. Uroke up camp THE BRIDGE OF PENIPE. in despair, recrossed ridge at north-west end of Altar,' descended Valley of CoUanes rapidly, and arrived at Penipe at 5.5 p.m. Eemembering the advice of the worthy tailor, I endeavoured to ' Round about tlie sumniit of tliis pass between the two valleys, rather more than 13,000 feet above the level of the sea, on ground where snow had fallen every day during our stay, I collected twenty-six sjiecies of flowering plants in flower, including several Valerians and Geraniums, and five Gentians {GeiUiana cerastioidcs, Griset ; G. cernua, H.B.K.; G.foliosa, H.B.K. ; G. JUma Don, Kuiz & Pavon ; and G. secUfolia, H.B.K.) In the same neigh bourliood the lichens Usnm cornula, Koc-rb., and Slercocauloii tomciUosam, Fi'ies, and the moss Grimmia ainblyophylla, CM., were abumlant. CHAP. XVI. A NIGHT A T PENIPE. 309 sleep outsiLle the house on a plaiik foiiii — a thing with length and no hreadth; and finding that this, through Ijeing near the ground, allowed the curs of Penipe to browse on my boots, shifted in the course of the night to the top of a table (which had breadth but no length), and curled myself up, as printers might say, into the shape of C, grotescpxe. Little refreshed by slumber, we returned across the rickety liridge to Eioljaml^a ; without incident except a furious stampede of cm' animals, who took this way of shewing that they had benefited Ijy theii- sojourn in the forest. As a general rule, Ecuadorian mules display no eagerness to get either onward or U})ward, and upon flat, open ground, where there is plenty of room, each one seems to wish to be last ; while on approaching narrow places, and ruts in greasy earth where only one can pass at a time, suddenly galvanized uito life, they dash firward with outstretched necks, racing to get through first ; and deaf to command, persiia- sion or entreaty outstrip the arrieros, unheeding their shouts and " lado's," and rush at headlong speed, cannoning each other and cUslodguig then' loads. Then aiises HuUalialloo ! while the corners of packing-cases are splintered and theu- sides stove in, to the future cUsmay of consignor and consignee. After six months' experience of the manners and customs of the Ecuadorian mule, one began to understand why glass was dear in Quito. A THKEATENED ATTACK. CHAl'TEE XVII. THE FIRST ASCENT OF CARIHUAIEAZO. Although coiapelled l)y force of circumstances to leave C'liim- borazo for a wliile (see pp. 78-80), nutliiiig had occurred to alter my determination to ascend that mountain again ; and indeed it was strengthened, because I perceived that a repetition of baro- nretric observations would have, for the measurements of pressure wliicli had been made since the first ascent, much the same value as a ' base of verification ' in a triangulation. Tliere was uo longer reluctance on the part of my assistants — they were my most willing and obedient servants — and we expected to have the com- pany of Campana and David, both of whom liad shewn some aptitude in keeping on tlieir legs. When preparations were com- pleted at liiobamba, I proposed first to execute a measurement on CRAP. xviT. A TENDER CONSGIENGE. 311 tlie Quito road to get ' a scale ' for Uliiuiliorazo ; next to ascend Cariliuairazo, to test the snow-going abilities of the aspirants ; tlien to cross between the two laonntains and to ascend Chini- liorazo by the long snow-slope which had been remarked from Guaranda (see p. 25); and lastly to complete the circiut of the mountain. Though little margin of time was left for the unfore- seen, if everything went happily, it was possible to do this by the 8th of July, the date on which it would be necessary to leave, to catch the steamer going north from Guayaquil. Before starting from the town, we took advantage of market- day to lay in additional stores ; and as my people fancied the bread (if the country, which was brought in for sale by Indian women, .TeanrAntoine and I went to the Plaza, and bought a sackfid. We tlien moved off to continue purchasing in another part, and pre- sently found ourselves followed hj one of the women, who talked glilily in some incomprehensible aboriginal dialect, proffering an armful of bread, which apparently she wanted to sell. "VVe shook our heads and tried to get rid of her, but she would not be rebuffed, and Ijecame an annoyance by creating ' a scene.' It was at last explained by one of the bystanders that she wished ns to take the Viread gratis, that it was our due, she had not given enough for the money that had laeen paid ; and nothing would induce that woman to go away until it was accepted, and her conscience was satisfied. June 25. F7-o7n Biobamba to Camp on loiver slopes of Ghim- horazo} Despatched the Carrels, David, Campana, Cevallos, and Domingo at 9.15 a.m., with eleven beasts, and followed at 11.15. ^lade for the depression between Ghimburazo and Cariliuairazo, and camped about two and a half miles to the north-east of Chuquipoquio.^ Eainy day. Min. temp, at night oO^'o Faht. June 26. Measurement on road, lir. Sent out Domingo to cut ' At the jilace marked Camp 7 on Jlap of Chimborazo. - On the 24th, I received a letter from Mr. Chambers (Guayaquil), which had been written, and despatched by the ordinary post, on April 3. All letters in this country are liable to be opened and delayed. In 1880, it was said that the British Minister's letters were the only ones wliieh were exeinjit from this treatment. 312 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xvii. fii-ewood ; Caiiipana and David to Mocha and the neighl:io\iring ■\dllages to collect antiquities and to l;iuy food ; and went with the Carrels to connnence measurement on the high road, where it runs across the Paramo of Sanancajas. On return to camp found that Domingo had l)een assailed by two men, who took away his macheta, and would not restore it until he had given up all the money he possessed. At dusk a horseman rode up (who was recognized as one of the men attached to Cluupupocpuo), and in a very insolent manner demanded payment for permission to camp, and for the grass our beasts were eating. Had it explained to him that he had better take himself off, and he rode away shouting that he would come liack with others at night and steal our animals. About 9 p.m. Campana and David came in, very excited, saying that a few miles off, on the high road, two men had spread a white cloth before their beasts, to try to frighten them, and had then rushed in. There was a tussle, and my men scampered off, mth the loss of a few trifles. Putting these several things together, it seemed that Seiior Chiriboga must have again come up from Eiobamba " to watch over and care for us " (see p. 82), and it became necessary to avoid his attentions. The position of the camp was excellent for defence, though it had not been selected with any such view. There was a small torrent on the north side, and a narrow but deep earthquake fissure on the south. The two united towards the east, and our camp was placed on the west (at A, B). Wlieu the animals were driven in to z, no one could get at them without passing us. Kept watch until past midnight, and then roused Louis to take a turn for an hour, liut before his tune was half over he was snoring again. Continued to watch, and at 2 a.m. heard whistling, and low voices of persons CHAP. xvn. A THREATENED ATTACK. 313 appriiiiehiug. Said mithiiig ; tmik my whip and aroused the others : hung out the lanterns to sliew them tlie way, and shouted defiance. Apparently, the thieves thought they might have a warm reception and went off. Night being very dark, we saw no one. After this my people considered that it miglit be as well to keep watch, and I went to sleep. A windy, rainy night. June '21. From Cam}) near Iligli Boad to Cam}] on the south side of Ceiriluiairazo. At 8.15 a.m. a muleteer from Machachi (known to Cevall(is) came m and said that eleven Ijeasts had been stolen friim liim last night, a few miles on the other side of the tambo. Even the loss of one animal wnuld have caused us great incon- \-enience, — probably would have upset everything ; and, as there were evidently cattle-stealers about, we abandoned the measure- ment, and moved upwards out of their reach, and beyond the attentions of the robber of Chuipiipuiiuio. At 1.30 p.m. Ijroke up camp, and proceeded liy the valley Ijetween Chimljorazo and Carihuau-azo, called Yacu-larca, passing a number of half- wild cattle, with lashing tails and twitching heads, who could have made a very pretty mess of us if they had charged : and aliout 3.:i0 crossed the stream. In the bed of this ri^-er (the l!io Blanco) there were quick- sands, of whicli I liecame aware by being nearly shot over the head of my animal ; i and the slopes on the farther side were found to be very swampy. Large thickets high up du the flanks of our mountain, with trees of considerable age, leatl one to suppose that it was long since it was an active Volcano. We steered for a ratiier prominent clump, in a rcdlon running north and south, and camped at 1:5,377 feet on its western or right bank, nearly (hie south of the two principal summits of Carihuairazo. Violent wind at night from E. to X.E. Min. temp. 33° Faht. ' As the Rio Blanco was a trifling stream, we began to cros.s it in tlirec or four places at once. Several of the animals passed over without trouble. Jly own refused to advance, until whipped, and in the very next step it i>lunged into a quicksand. All liauds coming ipiickly, it was speedily extricated. 2s 314 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xvii. June 28. In Cam]]. Kept indoors. Had not got the bearing of the summit, and would not start. Cloiuls nearly dowir to our level all day, and from 12 to 8 p.m. rain, sleet or hail i'cll unceas- ingly. After that saw stars for a short time and got bearings. Prepared for an early start to-morrow. Cut bundles of Ijranches and twigs to mark hue of ascent. Eain and snow recommenced at 9 p.m., and continued to fall nearly all night. June 29. Ascent of the middle peak of Carihnairazo. Left camp at 5.50 a.m. by lantern-light, with the Carrels, Da^■id, and Campaiia, — the two latter being taken to test their snow-going abilities liy a little preliminary exercise. Fitted them out in some of our old boots and socks, with gaiters extemporized out of coarse waterproof Was also accompanied by a four-footed volunteer. At the \'illage of Penipe there were many dogs, and one of them followed our caravan, and could not lie driven away. Pos- sibly somebody had given it a bone, or shewn it a little kindness ; and as the mongrel was grateful it became a pet, and then of course had to lie named, and finding it answered to Pedro it was known thenceforward as Pedro de Penipe. When we lel't camp our dog insisted upon accompanying us, and it went to tlie tup of the mountain. From the reconnaissance on tlie lotli of January (see note to page 87) it was liiears to be a clear glass thickly studded with dusty feri'ite, and w'ith minute crystallites in jiart, at least, felspar. The rock is, therefore, an augite-andesite." — Prof. T. G. Bouney, Proc. Soyal Soc, June 19, 18S4. ' There is a rough track all tlie way up Yacu-Iarca to Abraspungo. As we did not descend by this jiath on the westcru side, I am not aware wliat direction it takes, after crossing the pass. ^ It would be interesting if this tradition could be verified, as it might give a clue to the age of the glaciers which now completely envelop the top of the mountain. CHAP. XVII. SNOir-BLlXn AGAIN. 317 la a mif/ ii B i tiuimwiia tsSWW^SgsSta^ ,_^' h^SW^-"^ CAKIHL'AIRAZO, FROM THE SOUTH. •" Occasional glimpses were obtained through the clouds for a few hundred feet m various directions, but whilst on the summit we neither saw (_'iiiniborazo nor the (jtlier peaks of Cariliuairazo ; and we returned to camp uncertain where we had been. At 4 p.m. tiie clouds opened, and shewed that we had stood on the western of the two principal peaks (that nearly in the middle of the engra\dng), which is distinctly, tliuugli slightly, lower than the eastern one. The rate of ascent on this day wa.s eleven feet per minute (•^138 feet in 285 minutes^ Taking into consideration that this was their first experience upon steep snow, ])avid and Campaiia came out well, and tliey wei'e gi-eatly elated at the prospect of their promised ascent of Chimborazo. Presently their joy was turned into mr)urnin£. In a few hours the whole of us were ' Left camp 5.50 a.m. aud arrived on summit 10.35 a.m. Left at 11.45 a.m. ; came down fast ; never lost sight of the sticks we had planted (though in some iii.stanccs tlie\' were nearly covered li}' drifting snow), and got to camp at 2.5 p.m., without halting. 318 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT AXDES. chat. xvii. incapacitated by suow-bliiidiiess. F(_)reseeiiig what was coming, a brew of Snlphate of Zinc was made in our largest can, and served out wholesale. It was piteous to hear the Ecuadorians wailing under tlieir little l>outh. Not knowing what had befallen them, they imagined they had ■. v lost their sight for ever. Pedio J )ined m the limentitions aid went moxnmg and sti^gei- ni_, ibout knoclvni- his head i_ iinst FOURTH C.\MP ON CHIMBORAZO (14,359 FEET). UU\\lUUI_,l} the bi mi. lies June JO At Cimqi on Carihuairazo. All snow- blind, unable to move. De- pended for assistance on Cevallos and Domingo. Juli/ 1. From Camj) on Carihuairazo to Fourth Camp on Cliim- horazo, across Ahraspumjo. Broke up camp at 10 a.m. ; descended the vallon, and ascended Yaeu-larca to Aliraspungo, Jean-Antoine and Campaila travelling with bandaged eyes, and the rest wearing blue spectacles. Stopped on the summit of the pass to read the CHAP. XVII. FIFTH CAMP ON CHIMBORAZO. 319 liaviimeter, and fdiuid tliat the height (14,480 feet) was a httle above that nf the Great Areual. After crossing it we kept for some time on a k^vel/ and were then driven downwards to turn the end of a large stream of lava." Eounding the base of this, we came upon an excellent place for camping, against a little rivulet, with jilenty of firing, and made there our fourtli camp nn L'himborazo (14,359 feet). Min. temp, in night 30° Faht. The fourth camp was not high enough for a starting-point, and on the 2nd of July we continued a few miles fartlier in a south- westerly dii-ection, and established the tifth camp at the height of ir),Sll feet, against a ver}- large lilock of lava" (apparently, a loose mass imbedded in the soil, that had either lieen ejected or had fallen from the cliffs above) a little to the north of the ridge which hereafter will be termed tlie noith-west ridge of Chimborazo.* I identified this as the long ridge seen from Guaranda, and knew that it led directly towards the summit. .Tean-Antoine, liowever, maintained that I was mistaken. " I tell you what it is," said the Cliief of the Staff, " Monsieur deceives himself, iireitily" ' A fe^v liundred yards on the west of the pass, the swampy .soil suddenlj' gives place to firm ground ; and a little farther on the sandy slopes commence which stretch uninterruptedly round the north-west and western sides of the mountain. - This prominent lava-stream appeared to issue from the glaciers at the height of about 18,000 feet, — one could not see precisely where, owing to the large quantity of new-fallen snow. '■' There was great difficulty in breaking specimens from this mass, which was unlike any otlier rock that I saw on the mountain. When broken, it crambled somewhat in the manner of loaf-sugar. Prof. Bonney says: — "A rather enimbly rock of very irregular fracture, having a very dark grey ground-mass, in which crystals of glassy -white felspar, up to about ■2incli long, are imbedded. AVhen examined microscopically, it does not appear to differ materially from some of those already described ... is different only in the colour of the ground-mass, and is best named a hypersthene-andcsite." — Proc. Royal Soc, June 19, 1884. ■* The direction of this ridge is not strictly north-west. It is more nearly north-north-west. CHIMBORAZO, FROM THE NORTH-NORTH-WEST. CHAPTER XVIII. ON THE SECOND ASCENT OF CHIMBOEAZO. The aspect of Chimborazo from the north-north-west was quite unlike its appearance from any other direction. The two sunnnits could not be seen/ and the mountain seemed to terminate in one very flat dome. I found that this apparent summit was actuall}- at C on my map, and was part of the glacier which I have named Glacier de Eeiss, after l>r. AV. Eoiss of Berlin. Under this great fiat dome there were vertical sections of glacier, crowning precipices of rock, in a manner similar to those which are repre- sented in the plate facing p. V6 ; and falls of ice occurred over these cliffs, as the glacier advanced, hlresenting the appear- ance of a gigantic — i drawn upon an otherwise perfectly clear sky. It was then caught by wind from the north, and, borne towards us, appeared to spread quickly. Meanwhile the others iirogressed steadily over the snow-beds and stony debris on the crest of the ridge, and I did not catch them for nearly an hour. At 6.50 a.m. we tied up, as the snow ' This was the only occasion on which we saw the eratei- (Hiite I'rue IVoni smoke and steam during the whole of ouv stay in Ecuador. - I did not note the time it took to rise to this elevutimi. My impression is that it was an all'air nf a lew sccoiuh. CIIAT. XVIII. JEAK-ANTOINE BECOMEI^ DEAF. 323 became continuous, and procemled along the areteimtil it came to a termination at the extreme western end of 'the Northern Walls';' and then liore away horizontally to the right, to an islet of roek, and halted at S.:!-'! a.m. for 1 .reakfast." The liarometer said that we had risen :!000 feet in three hours and twenty minutes; — the mercury had sunk from IG-OoO to 15-177 inches, while temperature hail risen from :'.0" to 46" Faht. We were already 18,900 feet abuve the sea. COMMENCEMENT OF THE ERUPTION OF COTOl'AXI, JULY 3, 1880. In a half- hour the march was resumed. The slopes here were too steep for direct escalade, and we still hore away to the south (traversing the head of the glacier which I ha\e named after Dr. Alphons Stiibel of Dresden), opening out the valley of the Chinibd, and an innnen.se pro- spect Ijeyond. " Hi ! (.'arrel 1 what is that ? " " Guaranda, Monsieur." " Guaranda ! Monsieur decei\'es himself, does he?" but the man in front suddenly became deaf, and could not hear a word. At this time the view was magnificent. We could see to tlie bottom of the basin of the Chiniljo, eleven thousand feet l)elow, and oserlooked the country on the west by four or five thousand feet. Between us and the sea, the whole expanse iVdiu math to south was filled Viy the Pacific Range of Ecuadcjr, witli cuiintle.ss peaks and ranntications — ' This is just beyond the range of tlie engravini; on [i. 320, on the right. - At the spot marked z on the Map of Chiniljorazo. 324 TBAVELS AMONGBT THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xvm. valleys, valloiis, dells and dales, l)acked by the Ocean,' rising above the haze whicli oliscured the flat coast land. Now we turned back [a the north, and zigzagged to and fm to ease the ascent, getting into the direct lays of the sun, which was already more than fifty degrees high. The clouds from Cotopaxi were bearing down upon Chindiorazo, seeming to rise higher and yet highei- in the sky, although they were actually descending. For a full hour we saw the immense column still rising from the crater, and then the clouds which were drifting towaixls us shut it out. When they commenced to intervene Ijetween the sun and our- selves the effects which were produced were truly amazing. "We saw a r/rccn sicn, and smears of colour something like verdigris green high up in tlie sky, which changed to equally extreme lilood- reds, or to coarse brick-reds, and then passed in an instant to the colour of tarnished copper, or shining brass. No words can convey the faintest idea of the impressive appearance of these strange colours in the sky — seen one moment and gone the next — re- sembling nothing tn wliicli they can properly be compared, and surpassing in \-ivid intensity the wildest effects of thi> most gorgeous sunsets. Tile ternis that I have employed U> designate tlie colnurs wliicli were seen are Ijoth inadequate and inexact. Their most striking features were their extraordinary strength, their extreme coarseness, and tlicir dissimilarity from any tints or tones ever seen in the sky, even during sunrises or sunsets of exceptional brilliancy. They were unlike colours for wliich there are recognized terms. They commenced to lie seen when the clouds began to pass between the sun and ourselves, and were not seen previously. The changes from one hue to another had ol)vious connection with the varying densities of the clouds that passed : which were sometimes thick and sometimes light. Nn colours were seen when they moved overhead, and surrounded us on all sides. ' Tln' I'ait si'iii was [iiDlialily ilistaiit "200 nr iiioi'i' miles. OHAP. xviiT. THK SEGO^^D ASCENT OF GHIMBOBAZO. 325 At 11 a.ui., getting into thi' direct rays of the sun, the heat liecaiiie oppressive, and David, exhausted ]>\ his Houuderings in the snow, wislied to return. " Tiupossilile, David ; it is now or never." C'anipana, a light weight, sank in sliglitly, and shewed no signs of fatigue. At 11.30 a.m., we were again facing Guaranda; and striking tlie foiuier route, made as befoi-e for the plateau between the two domes, beading round at first to the north, and sul isequently to tlie east ; avoiding the lowest part of the hollow, yet occasionally sinking up to the knees. At 1 p.m., when close to the very highest point, a great clamour and cackling broke out amongst the men, for the regular sweep of the dome was inter- rupted by SI ime object. It was tlie top of our ten-foot pole sticking out of the snow, with a few tattered fragments of the red flag still attached.^ Nature had built a wall of ice about six feet long on the eastern (or windward) side, and the flagstaff stood clear of it in front, with the frayed remnants of serge stiff frozen, pointing like fingers to the south-west, registering the direction of the wind that had prevailed ! - During this time the clouds frnm ('otopaxi had l)een constantly approaching, and about mid-day they passed overhead.^ The sun had become invisilile, and temperature had fallen ; and our first care was to dig a trench to leeward of the flagstaff to olitain pro- tection, for the wind felt dangerously cold. Shortly after tlie barometer was hung up, it read 14'0.")0 inches, with air tempera- ture 20 Faht., and it continued to tall untQ 2 p.m., and then, with the tliermometer at 15° Faht., the mercury stood at 14-028 inches, and loi'rr it woidd not (jd} When the clouds from ditojinxi tirst passed overliead, they ' AU e.\ce|it the few scraps slu'wii in tlie engraving laeinf; p. .320 had been liliiwn away by the wind. - We arrived on the summit at 1.20 ji.m., liaving oeeu]piccl lour hours and a 'inartcr over the aseent of the last sixteen hundred feet. •' They had taken si.\ hours to travel about eight}' miles. ' At 2 p.m., when the JFereurial Barometer (red. to .'i2° Faht.) was H'OM in(■lle^ till' Aneroid E read 12-990 inehes. 326 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap, xviii. were still, I think, not less than 5000 feet above us (or 25,000 to 26,000 feet above the sea), and they extended far to the sdutli before tlie dust of which they were composed began to fall ujjuh tlie wuuiniil df diinibdrazo. It cdninienced to settle about ten minutes after (.)ur arilval, and in the course of an houi' caused the snowy summit to look like a ploughed field. It tilled our eyes and nostrils, rendered eating and drinking impossilile,' and at last reduced us to breathing tlrrough handkerchiefs. Tlie brass and glass of the mercurial barometer, like everything else, liecame coated with this all-pervading dust, but the vernier afforded pro- tection to the portion of the tube which was behind it, and this protected part remained reasonalily lirigbt, wliile all the rest of the tube above and below was thickly encrusted. The height of the barometer on the summit of Chimborazo, on July 3, 1880, was registered in this manner by a volcanic eruption which occurred more than sixty miles away ! The surrounding country became obscured as soon as the fall- ing dust reached our level, and thus our last ascent in Ecuador, like all the rest, rendered no view from the summit. V>y 2 o'clock in the alteruoou even the Pointe Yeintenulla could not be seen, and the darkness continued to increase so much that by 2.30 p.m. we thought it was best to depart. The last thing done, before leaving, was photc)graphing the top of Chimliorazo. The sky was dark with the clouds of ash, the people shivered under a, tempera- ture of 15° Faht., the wind fluttered everything that could move, the snow gave a poor foundation for the stand, and the glo(_im made focusing uncertain. All the conditions were favourable for the production of a bad pliotograpli, and the result was just what might be expected. It is reproduced literally here, without em- belli.shment, an authentic record of a memorable occasion. - ' My observed teiiiiwiatme on tlie summit of Chimljovazo, on July •'!, was 96' '3 Faht. See Aiipendix F. - An ' in.stautaneous ' plate was ex[iose(i for one mimite, and it was necessary to keep wii)inf; the len.s during the whole ol' the operation. The engraving shew.s the dust eomnieneing to settle among the ripjiles in the snow. CHAi'. xviii. Till-: DESCEXT. 327 The suiliice of the snow hail hardened under the iiiereasiiig eiild, and we sHpped along ipnekly, — Lonis first, I'ollowed by David: then Campafia in my cliarge : while Jean-Antoine came last, and acted as sheet-anchor. Though the little Interpreter tumbled alwut gloriously, he tugged no more than a good -sized fish at tiie end of a line ; and we descended boisterouslj', cutting the zigzags, and finding great advantage from sticks which had been planted to mark the route, in the same manner as upon Sara-urcu and Carihuairazo. About 4.45 a Ijrief halt was made to get an observation of the mercurial barometer for the height of the snow-line (16,700 feet), and then, casting off the rdpe, we put on full steam, and aii'ived at camp at 5.10 p.m.^ By this time the coarser particles of the Volcanic Dust had fallen below our level, and were setthng down into the valley of the Chimbo (the bottom of which was still VOOO feet beneath us), causing it to appear as if filled by thick smoke. The finest ones were still floating in the air like a light fog, and so it continued until night closed in. The tent was laden witli the dust, and a . large ipiantity had slipi)ed and fallen down its sloping slides. I collected more than three ounces from the roof, and this was not the half of what remained upon it. Subsequently, 1 found that at the town of Ambato, between 11 and 11.15 a.m., upon a piece of jiaper one foot square, spread out to receive it, four ounces wei-e ' I havL' fi'lt it unnecessary to say much about the second ascent of Cliimborazo, heyoiid indicating the direction tliat was followed. The uortli-west ridge (tliat referred to uiiou p. 25, and shewn on the left of the engraving facing p. 24) leads witli remarkable directness towards the summit, and its crest or arctc is unusually free from iinpcdimcnts. At tlie upper end, where it abuts against the Xorthern Walls (or, perhaps it shouM be said, where it issues from them, fur 1 suspect that tliis is auotlier lava-stream), one is already 18,900 feet above the sea, and so far as this point ice-axes are not reipiired. It is then necessary to liear towanis tlie south, and a certain amount of cutting is oliligatory whilst traversing tlie head of the Glacier de Stiibel. Crevasses there, though numerous, are easily avoided, and the steepest angles of the slopes do not exceed 35°. Beyond this, tlic route joins that described in Chapter III. Neither upon Jan. 4 nor July 3 were there any open crevasses in the plateau between the two domes. 328 TRAVELH AMONGtiT THE GREAT ANDES. chai>. xviii. collected ; ;iiicl that at Eiobainba, upon paper similaily exposed, about as much fell per square foot as upon C'hind jorazo. From these data I have calculated the luinimum quantity which must have been ejected upon this occasion. Drawing two lines radiating from Cotopaxi, one leading to Eiol)amlia, and the other to an equal distance west of the fifth camp (within which limits it is certain that the dust fell), and estimating that from (nir camp to Andjato only one-eighth of an ounce fell on each square foot, and that from Ambato to the Volcano four ounces fell on each square foot, I find that, at the least, firo inillions of tons nuist have been ejected during this eruption.' The cjuautity is umler- estimated in several ways. Tlie amount is ignored that was carried beyond the limits wliich have been indicated, though it fell over many hundreds of square uules.- The (puuitity only is taken into account which was actually found upon the tent — not that which had fallen from it, nor tliat which liarl .still to descend ; and from Aml.iato northwards a fall (.)f fifteen minutes only is reckoned, although it continued to settle for several hours.^ I have i'cnind it interesting to compare the dust deposited upon Chimborazo with that wliidi fell upon our tent wlien we were encamped on the sunniiit nf Cotopaxi (.see p. 15li), which was ' This amount i.s uiiual to a ouhmin ol' solid lava (2 '65 spec, grav.) 38 feet s(iuaie ami 18,600 feet high. - And ou ships upon the Pacilic Ocean. ^ As pure and undefiltd Volcanic Dusts can seldom he procured, and arc desiderata with students, I have placed the collections mentioned lielow in the hands of Mr. ,1. R. Gregory, 88 Charlotte Street, Fitzroy Square, from whom samples can lie ohtained. 1. Dust which fell at Quito (after an aerial voyage of 34 miles) from the great eruption of Cotopaxi in .June, 1877 (see p. 12S). 2. Dust which fell on the tent on Chimborazo (after an aerial voyage of 64 miles) from tlie eruption of Cotopa.vi, July 3, 1880. 3. Lapilli and dust from the apex of the cone of Cotopaxi (19,500 feet). 4. Granular dust from sheltereil places on Cotopaxi (see p. 141). 5. La|iilli from 15,000 feet on Cotopaxi. 6. Pumice lapilli from Ambato (see p. 94). 7. Fine dust from the ten-inch bed at Maehachi (see p. 104). 8. Fine puniiee-dnst from the lowest bed at Maehachi (see p. 104). CHAP, xviir. PESCIUrTIOXS OF VOLCANIC DUSTS. 329 ejected (lunn.t,' intermittent discharges of steam, and, presnnialily, was l(a-n nlf liy the violence of the l)lasts. It is reasonable to find that there is a considerable difference in the weight and dimerisions 1 if the particles of these two dusts. The larger and heavier atoms naturally settle soonest, and the smaller and lighter ones travel farthest. Upon several occasions I have endeavoured to count the number of particles in a grain of the Chimborazo deposit, and have fiiund that the smaller (ines do not weigh so much as -^jioo pin't (if a grain, and that the finer atoms are lighter still.^ ' Prafes.sor Bomiey lias examined tlie l«(i dusts nucroscopically, and lias favoured me with the following descriptions. No. I. {Dust which fell on the tent at the summit of Cotopaxi, Feb. 18-19, 1880). "The grains range from •02 inch in diameter downwards, a considerable proportion varying between tliis and about "01 inch. They may lie tlius distinguished: — (A) rock fragments, (B) mineral fragments. (A). These consist of {n) chips of colourless or nearly colourless glass, sometimes almost clear, sometimes clouded with ferrite or opacite, and containing microliths of felspar, &c.— chips, in short, of glassy lavas. (6) rough opaque, or nearly opaque gi-ains, sometimes translucent at the edges, and including microliths of felspar and augite ; these, when viewed with a dark background, have a seoriaeeous e.xterior, and are gi'eyish, blackish, or reddish -brown in colour; they are evidently minute lapilli of an andesitic lava. (B). Among these the following minerals may be recog- nized : — {n) felspar, showing occasionally plagioelastie twinning ; (6) more rare, augite and perhaps hypersthene. I notice fragments both of glass and of minerals even among the finer dust, together with black specks, probably magnetite." No. II. [Dust which loas ejected by Cotopaxi npon Jiili/ 3, 1880, and fell upon the lent at the fifth camp on Clii mhorazn, distant si.i'ty-four miles). "The grains whicli make up this interesting deposit, as indicated by a glance at the slides with tlie unaided eye, are, as might be expected, decidedly smaller than those which characterise No. I, a very few only attain to a diameter of '01 inch, and this is liarely exceeded. Fragments measuring from '003 to •001 inch are common, and they vary from this size to the finest dust ; the cliaractcristic of the deposit, so far as I can ascertain, being the presence of grains ranging from about •OOl to •OOS inch. They consist, as before, of rock fragments and mineral fragments. Among the former (A) the rough dark lapilli are rare ; the majority being translucent, and apparently smooth externally. These are chips of glass, commonly of a pale brownish colour, in which acicular microliths, probably of felspar, are fre(pient, w ith specks of ferrite. . . (B). The mineral fragments are felspai-, as above, with a little augite, and there is one well-formed hyperstliene crystal "01 inch long, in which are enclosures of iron peroxide, &c., and, I think, minute cavities. Fragments of felspar and acicular crystallites are rather alnnulant among the finer dust." ■2 V 330 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xvm. The sole difference between this eruption and others which Imd been remarked of Cotopaxi, was, probalily, only one of degree. If the pipe of the ^^olcano — its channel of communication with tlie depths below — had been filled with molten lava, a means of exit would have been afforded which would have prevented this great manifestation of energy. The outburst suggested explosion, — a violent deliverance of confined force ; and I conjecture that the steam which was constantly welling up, instead of being permitted to escape freely, or by intermittent discharges, was moi'e efiectually imprisoned than usual [in tlie manner suggested upon pp. loo-4], and that thus the temporary ijuietude was produced whicli was noted in the early morning. During this time the subterranean forces were gathering strength, under constantly-increasing heat, due to augmented pressure ; at last acquiring power sufficient to burst tlirougli the barrier, and then issued in a l)liist of inconceiv- able violence ; rushing in a few seconds from depths with heat al)o\'e the fusiug-point of iron to cold beneath the freezing-point of mercury, rending the solid rock through wliicli it passed into infinitesimal fragments, and driving millions of tons of this im- palpable powder vertically in tlie air, twenty thousand feet aliove the lip of the crater. The new readings of the liarometer on the summit of Chim- borazo, agreeing closely witli those wliich were taken upon the first ascent, gave assurance, whilst still in the country, tliat tiiere was ui) material error in the measurements of atmospheric pressure wliich had lieen made in tlie interior of Ecuador ; and the altitude which has been deduced from them for Chimliorazo, by nearly according witli that wliicli was obtained fi-diu the jirevious oljser- vatious, renders it probal.ile that the accepted iieiglit (if tliat mountain is too f/rcat h// ((hont 927 feet} For a second time we saw the barometer standing nearly as low as 14 inches, without experiencing what I have ventured to term the acute symptoms of mountain -sickness; and, by a con- ' See Chaiitcr XIX. for .some furtlici- remarks upon tlie lieiylit of Cliimborazo. CHAP. XVIII. A BAROMETRIG LEVEL. 331 sideralile iinpi-uveineut in mir rate, luul the opiiiiciii edufirnied tliat mail can become lialiituated tci low pressures. The ascent from the fifth camp (15,811 feet) to the summit (20,498 feet), excluding halts, occupied 445 minutes, and was therefore executed at the rate of 632 feet per hour. The descent, excluding halts, was made ill 145 minutes, or at the rate of 1939 feet per hdur, — the mean of these being 1280 feet per hour ; a speed which, although comparing unfavourably with the superlative rates quoted upon pp. 31-2, was a distinct advance upon our first essay. On the 4th (if July wo cdiitinued the circuit nf the mountain by a higii-le\-el ruiitc, intending to stop for the night at the position of the First Camp ; and the marcii was made in a trifie over five hours (for most of the way at an ele^'ation of 14,500 to 15,000 feet), without coming across any impediment worth mention ! The Itearing of the First Camp was not known at starting, and I undertook to lead the caravan by the guidance of the barometer. On the 20th (jf J)eceinber, at the First Camp mi Cliindnjrazo, the Itarometer stood at 17'9 inches, and from daily nbservatioii of it I knew the great iniiinibaliility that atmo.spberic pressure would lie so much as one-tenth of an inch either higher or lower at the same spot. I proposed to intersect the Vallon de Carrel, a little higher than the First Camp, by keeping on a level with a pressure of IT'S inches. For this purpose Aneroids were more useful than tlie Jlercurials, inasmuch as they could be read on horseback while ill movement, without checking the march of the caravan ; and I tru.sted to tliera alone, after having ascertained their Index-errors by cumparisdii with the Jlcrcurial' Siiinetiiucs tlie nature of tlie ground dro\e us a little up or down, and pressure fell or rose as the case might be ; but at the earliest opportunity the level of IT'S inches was resumed, and no other means were employed to find the desired place. ' It was indispensable to do this, in conseiiucnce of the large errors they had acquii'ed. See How to use tlie Aneroid Barometei; § 66. 332 TllAVKLH AMUNGtiT THE UUEAT ANDE^. chap, xviii. Upon leaving the fifth camp ^ we steered away from the summit for forty minutes, to turn the nortli-west ridge; and then bore round to the S.AV., S.S.W., and for a long distance went nearly due South, below the Glacier de Stiibel — the broadest glacier upon Chimborazo. After passing this, solely at the instigation of the aneroids, I changed tlie course to S.E. liy E., and aliout 4 p.m. had the satisfaction of pointing out to my people (through a gap in the ridge on the north side of the A'allon de Carrel) the place where we liad encamped on the 26th of December. The part of Chimljorazo traversed on this day was )_)arren to the last degree, covered witli IrmIs of sand, extending upwards (as we had found in the Vallon de Carrel) nearly to the snow, and downwards farther tlian could be seen. All fissures ami minor inequalities were entii'ely effaced. These sandy slopes and jilains are not i)erceived wliile crossing Chimborazo l)y the ordinary route, or from tTuaranda, and Ihey extend uninterruptedly from a. little to the west of Tortorillas right round the western and north-western sides of the mountain, nearly to Aliraspungo, Tlir jKirliou which at present is called 'The Great Arenal ' is, in reality, only a small pai't of them. They are an important feature which has not liitherto been pointed out, produced li}' the same cause as the slope of ash on Cotopaxi [see pp. 140-8], namely, liy the predominance of easterly winds, which waft the Milcanic dusts ii-om llie eastern sides of the nmuntains, and deposit them on tlie leeward or western ones; and lhe\' I'orm a most convenient highway, although sterile, infinitely more agreealile to tra\-el o\er than the established route, through (luiipiipoipiio. ^ We scoured tlie .siin'oiiiuliiif,',s Ijel'ore deiiaitiue, and discovered sixteen small beetles of si.\ siiecies, three of which {Jicmbidiiiiii Andlnum, Bates, Co/jMiics orcas, Hates, and ErirrhinoUks dislinelus, Olliff) were obtained oidy at this locality. The othens {Hdk-orrhiinchus vulsus, Olliff, Naupadus jmrvicollis, Ollilf, .and M^aa-o/is cmlorum, Ollill') had jireviously been found at similar altitudes upon richincha and Cayandie. Desciiptions ol' these beetles are given in the Supplementar]] Axipcndix. CH.M'. .Will. FLORA OF CHIMBOEAZO. 333 The stream was ilrieil up in the A'allun de Caiiel, and we eon- timu'il uinvai'd tdwards Tdiloi-illas until water was found, and made iiur Si.xth Camp (13,853 feet) some distance short of the taml)0, at the mouth of the Vallon de D6bris, in a little nook, concealed from the \iew of pei'sons crossing the Great Arenal. The oth of July was occupied in completing collections^ and other ' I give liere a coniiilete list of our Botanical gatherings ujion Cliiniborazo, exclusive of species which were obtained lower than 14,000 feet. — Lichens. Par- mclia, near centrifuga, south side (14-15,000 feet) ; Umhilicaria sp. ? north-west side (15,800) ; Ncuropogon mdaxanthus, Nyl., second cauip (16,660); Alectoria divergens, Ach., second camp (16,660) ; A. ochrolcuca, Nyl., second camp (16,660) ; Lecidea gcogntphka, Fr., var., second camp (16,660); Stcrcocmiloii sp. ? second camp (16,660) ; Gyropliora or perhaps EiidDcarpon sp. ? third camp (17,285) ; Lccamra (section Squamaria), second camp (16,660) ; Lccanora, section Placodium, second camp (16,660); and i. siibfusai, L., foot of the Southern Walls (18,400). Mosses. Andrexa striata. Mitt. ; Brachymcnium fmi/criim, Jaeg. ; Grimmia con- sobrina, Kunze ; G. apocarixi, Hedw. ? ; G. fusco-lutca, Hook. ; and Mielichhoferia longiseta, CM., all from the immediate vicinity of the second camp (16,550-16,750). I'crn. Folypodium pycnohpls, Kze., in Vallon de Carrel (14,900). Grasses. Fcstuca mollis, Ktli., east side, above Chuquipocpiio (14,000); and I'oa sp. .? south side (15,000-15,500). Flowering plants. LaUntx i—Stachi/s irpcns, M. & G., above Chuquipocpiio (14,000). Scrophulariaceic : — Bartsia gracilis, Bonth. , north-east side (13-14,000) ; Calceolaria rosmarinifolia. Lam., above CluKpiiiioipiio (14,000) ; Caslil- Ija fissifolia, L., south side (14,000-15,000). Gentianaceie : — Gcidiana ccrastioides, H.B.K., north side (13,000^14,000) ; G. ccrima, H. k B., south side (14,000-16,000) ; G. nqncola, H.B.K., south side (15,500-16,300); G. scdifolia, H.B.K., south side (15,500-16,000); a.nd HakiLia gracilis, Griseb., north-east side (13,000-14,000). Ericaccje : — Vaccinium epacridifolium, Benth., north side (13,000-14,000). Com- positie : — Achyrophorus Quitcvsis, Sz. Bij)., south side (15,500-16,300); Baccharis {Loricaria) fcrncginea, Pers., Vallon de Carrel (14,000-15,000); Bidens hiimilis, H.B.K., south side (13,000-16,500); Chuquiragua insignis, H. & B., south side (14,000-15,000); Cuhiiium nivalc, H.B.K., near second camp (15,500-16,300); C. reflcxum, Kth., Vallon de Carrel (14,000-15,000); and fVerncria sp. ? south side (14,000,-15,000). Valcrianea' : — Phyllactis IntifoUa, Spruce, north side (13,000-14,000) ; /'. incoHspicua, Wedd. ? second camp (16,600) ; Valeriana ahjssi- folia, Kth., Vallon de Carrel (14,000-15,000) ; V. microphyllx aff., south side (13,000-14,000); Valeriana sp. > south side (15,500-16,500). Ribesiacese :— iJiira glandalosum, R. & P., north-east side (14,000). Leguniinosie : — Astragalus gemini- lloriis, 11. k B., .south side (14,000-15,000) ; Liipinus humi/usiis, Benth., north-east side (13,000-14,000); Liipinus sp. ? (13,000-14,000); Lupiiius sp. ? south side 334 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT AXDES. chap, xviii. matters which hud been cut short iu January, aud iu the afternoon we transferred oiu-selves to Camp 7. On the next day the bag- gage was despatched to Eiobaml.ia under tlie care of L(_iuis ; wlulst I with Jean-Antoine and Campana resumed the measurement on the High Road for ' a scale for Chimborazo ' ; carrying it up to tlie Tambo of Chuquipoquio, and thus completing our work amongst the Great Andes of the Equator. (14,000-15,000); and Fkia sdifoUa, H.B.K., near Clmquii.oiiuio (12,000-14,000). Geraniace;e : — Geranium diffasum, H. B. K., Valloii de Cari'el (16,000). Malvacere : — Malvaslrum phyllanthos, Asa Gray, south side (14,000-16,500). Caryopliyllacefe : — Cerastium ghUinosum, Ktli., south and north-east sides (13,000-14,000) ; Ccrastium sp. ? south side (13,000-14,000) ; SleUaria leptopda/a, Benth., near second camp (15,500-16,000). Cruciferre : — Draha (jrandiflora, Hook. & Arn., fourth camp (14,360) ; D. ohorahi, Benth., near second camp, etc. (15,500-16,660) ; Draba sp. ? south side (14,000-15,000); Draba sp.? near second camp (15,500-16,000). Kauun- culacere : — Ranmiadus Peruviamis, Pers., north side (13,000-14,000) ; R. jtrxmorsiis, Kth., near second camp, etc. (15,500-16,500). Humlioldt says in the pamplilet entitled N'olicc dc deax tentalives d'asecnsion da Chimborazo, dated Berlin, Sept. 1836 (pub. at Paris in 1838), "Les derniers vegetau.x cryptogames que je recueillis furent le /ecidia atrorircns {lichen gcographi- cns, Web.) et une nouvelle espece de gyrophora d'Acharius {gyrojihora riigosa), a peu pres a 2820 toises d'altitnde. La derniere mousse, le griiamia hngiroslris croissait ii 400 toises plus has." Reckoning the toise at 6'3945 English feet, it appears tluit liis liighest Licliens came from 18,032, aud tlie Moss from 15,475 feet. For tlie Zoological results, the reader is referred to the SappJcmcntary Appendix. The last thing obtained on Cliinil)orazo (near Tortorillas) was the Hylodes with which my name is associated. Tliis was another of the species that recurred at similar altitudes. It had previously been captured upon Pichincha, Cotocachi, and Altar. A PHASMA FROM LA DORMIDA, CAYAMBE. CHAPTER XIX. UPON SOME RESULTS OF THE JOURNEY. Ix a very short time it was found tliat there were things to be unlearned as well as discovered in Ecuador. It liad lieen supposed that the slopes of Chimborazo led continumisly, without a break, down to tlie flat land liordering the shores of the Pacific [see p. 12]. 1 saw that this was not the case, and tliat an important range of mountains intervened between it and the Ocean. Next we ascertained tliat Chimborazo streamed witli glaciers, although high autliorities state that it has none ; and in course of time it l)ecame apparent that the two " parallel Cordilleras," wliich according to geographers are the great feature of the country, do not exist. The axis of the Andes of Ecuaddi', part nf the backbone of South America, runs nearly north and south ; and towards the western edge of the main chain there is a certain sequence of peaks more or less in a line with eacli otlier.' On the east of these summits there is a succession of liasuis," nf (hllerent dimensions ' See page 210, and my Route Ma]!. - See pages 85-6, 97, 105, 158-9, 167, 265, etc. 336 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT AXDEfi. chap. xix. and at various elevations, and the nearest mountains on the eastern side occur at irrrr/iihtr distances. There is no such thing as one great valley in the interic.ir of Ecuador. The mountains Pasochoa and Rumiiiahui are tlie only two which lie pamUd to the otliers on the western side.' The main cliain of the Andes was created hy upheaval at some remote date, liut no one can say when this movement occurred, ov whether it was an affair of a year or was spread over thousands of years. All of the Great Andes of the Erpxator rise out of, or upon and above the main chain.- With the exception of Sara-urcu, they are all mnuntains of volcanic origin,^ altlmugli tlicy may not all have Ijeen active volcanoes. There will possibly lie, for a long time to come, a diversity of opinions as to the manner of their formation. It seems to me probable that there were never many of these volcanoes in activity at any one nu)ment. Some that are now extinct have e^■idently lieen alive : wlulc others, like Pichincha and Tunguragua, are either dormant or are not perpetually in eruption. C'otopaxi and Sangai alone are in a state of constant acti\^ity, and these two mountains seem to be increasing their elevation.'* ' The Pacific Range of Ecuador and the range running south from Chimborazo as far as the Rio Chanehan are, however, parallel to each other ; and the course of the River Chimbo, from Guarauda to Chimbo, runs through a valley, speaking properly. I have already endeavoured to make it clear that this Pacific Range lies oiitsiile the main chain of the Andes. It has nothing to do with the "two parallel Cordilleras." - The elevation of the range in general, in Ecuador, although considerable, is not so great as it is farther to the .south ; and a railway might be carried there across the chain at a lower level than the Trans-Andean line which is at present being con- structed to connect Buenos Ayres with \'alparaiso. ' In Ecuador, the rocks that were previously at the sui'face are now almost entirely buried under lavas or volcauie-dnsts, which have welled out of fissures or have been violently ejected. ■* The excellent observers M. de la Coudaniine, and the Doctors Reiss k .Stiibel measured Cotopaxi and Sangai at an interval of 130 years. The former found the height of Cotopaxi was 18,865 feet, and Sangai 17,139 feet. The latter found the heights were 19,498 and 17,464 feet respectively. _. O o CHAr. XIX. COXFIGUSATION OF THE ANDEH OF ECUADOR. 337 Of the extinct Volcanoes, Cayanilie, ^Vutisana and Chimborazo are the most important. There are lava-streams upon the flanks of all three mountains,-" and I cannot doulit that the}' had craters of considerable size, though none can now be seen. The space at the summit of Antisana is sufficiently large to admit of one as great as that of Cotopaxi, and I think it may l^e assumed that under the snowy domes which now ftiriii the summits of Chim- borazo there are rocky peaks which were formerly two of the highest points around the rim of a crater. There are no records of eruptions of Chimborazo." It must have been an extinct volcano ft)r many ages. The complete burial of its crater, the thickness of the ice-cap at its summit and large size of its glaciers, the ruin and erosion of its lava-streams, and the heiglit vegetation has attained upon its flanks are all indications tliat its activity ceased at a remote period. It is less regularly conical than Cotopaxi, Sangai or Tunguragua, and towards its summits has sheer cliff's,^ that I ha^•e termed the Northern and Southern Walls, which it seems to me can only have lieen formed either liy violent upheaval or by explosive blowing away of por- tions of the exterior of the cone. The Southern Walls are shewn in the illustrations facing pages 24, G4 and 76, and, more in detail; in the accompanying plate. They are in two series, B, B, and D, D. ' In the matter of lava-streams I difi'er from Boussingault, who says that none can be seen anywhere among the Volcanoes of Trojiical America. "La masse du Chimborazo est formee par I'accumnlatioii de debris traehytinnes, amonceles sans ancHU ordre. Ces fragmens trachytiques, d'un vohime souvent enorme, out ete souleves a I'etat solide ; leurs angles sont toujours tranchans ; rien n'indiipie qu'il y ait en fusion ou meme un simple etat de mollesse. Kullc part, dans aumi^ dcs vukuns dc I'tipiatetir, on n'obscrvc rial qui puissc faire prisumcr mie coulee de laves." — Annales de Chimie el de Physique, tome Iviii, 2me seric, p. 175, Paris, 1835. I find this difficult to comprehend, as Boussingault visited Cotopa.xi and the Hacienda of Antisana. See pages 138, 145, 187 and 189. - "Cliimbora90, Yolcan (on ignore I'epoipie de son eruption)." — La Condaniine in Ilisf. dc VAcad. Roxjalc dcs Sciences (annee 1746), I'aris, 1751, pp. 650-1. * Tlicrc is .some eipially sheer elilf nn the northern side of Cotopaxi, near the summit. 2 .X 338 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT AAWES. chai'. xix. The latter stiind in advance of the higher ones, and are paRsal.)Ie at F (' the breach '), or may he skirted at tlie liase. The upper cliffs B, B are imapproacliable, on account of lieing crowued by glacier, whicli falls at intervals in tremendous avalanches, shaving the face of the rock. This ice -section (e, e), at the top of the cliffs, shews the thickness of the glacier on the summit of Chimborazo. The faces of these precipices exhibit a large nundier of parallel bands (nearly horizontal in the lower series and distorted in the upper one) wliich are highly coloured, and upon the rare occasions that the cliffs are lighted l)y the sun they present a gay and attractive appearance. Tlie highest strata of the upper series are black,-' alternating with grey bands ; wann grey, passing into strong red ; black, changing into thin grey and yellow strata ; warm grey again, passing into deep red ; and, at the base, warm grey, alternat- ing with thin strata of many colours, too numerous to recapitulate. The lower series connnences at the top with a stratum of reddish- grey colour for about half the whole depth of the cliff; then a stratum of ashy grey, followed by a strong black band ; Indian red, succeeded liy more black strata; and terminating at tlie liase with a lied aljout 200 feet thick, of strongly reddish luie. With the exception of the lowest rocks of the lower series, it is impossible to collect examples of tliese strata in situ, as the cliffs are well-nigli ^•crtieal : Imt specimens from all of tlie beds in the upper series (knocked oil by the descent of the ice-avalanche.s) can lie obtained on the surface of the Glacier de Debris, and they are found to be entirely volcanic products — principally andesitic lavas." The colouring is superficial, the result of weathering, or decom- position. The natural cohairs of these rocks range from steel ami iron-greys to purphsh-black. A great section of a somewhat similar nature was produced on ' It is not uiilikfly that this is the rock \vu olitaiiied at 19,400 feet iijiou tlie firet ascent. See pp. 67-8. - Amongst these fragments on the glacier I fonnil native .sulplmr. CHAr. XIX. POSITIONS OF THE (IREAT ANDES. 339 the Islaiul of Krakatoa l)y Llie l.ilnwing away of a portion of the cone during the convnlsions which occurred in August, 1883 :' and although it cannot lie positively affirmed that the Southern Walls of Chimborazo ha^•e been fashioned in this way, one may go so far as to suggest that that which is known to have happened in the Straits of Sunda may also have occurred on the coast of the Pacific. The relative situations of the Great Andes of the Equator will be seen by reference to the Eoute Map, where, for the first time, they are placed in the positions that they actually occupy. The Altitudes which were determined on my journey are arranged in a taliular f(irm in Appendix A, in chronoldgical order. The height of Chimborazo will probably possess more interest than any other for the majority of my readers. I give below the data which have been used in its computation, and a few remarks upon the pre^■ious determinations of its altitude by others. ]\Iy ori(jm(d readings are given here {nvt leduced to 32° Faht.), and they were not taken until the attached thermometer had fallen to the tem- perature of the ail". The Guayaquil barometer, it should Ije added, was 30 feet aljove tlie level of the sea. n + oi Ti., 4-^ Reading in Temp, of air I'^'t''- Pl"'^''- Barometer. .^^^_^^^ aiKl att. therm. ,Tai). 4, ISSO, 5.15 p.m. Summit of Cliiiiiliorazo No. 558 14-100 21° Faht. 6 p.m. Guayaiiuil . . . No. 554 29-S9-2 85° ,, Deduced altitude above tlie level of the sea, 20,545 feet. July 3, ,, 1.40 p.m. Summit of Chimljorazo No. 558 14-050 20° ,, 2 p. m. Summit of Chimborazo . No. 5.58 14-028 15° ,, ,, Meanoflla.m.&6p.m. Guayaquil No. 554 30-021 75° ,, Deduced altitude above the level of the sea, 20,461 feet. Besides these two results (20,545 feet fnmi the oljservations made on Jan. 4, and 20,4G1 feet from the 2 p.m. observations ■ in July 3j, :\Ir. Ellis has olitained a tliird one (20,489 feet) by ' A representation of this forms I'late 25 uf the Album accompanying the interesting work KraVatuu, by R. D. M. \'erbeek, Brussels, 1885-6 ; and it has been reproduced in the Hcpori of the Krakatoa Committee of the Royal Society, Loud. 1888, I'l. IT. 340 ritAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. "■ employing the ineiin of the observations at 1.40 and 2 p.m. Y Tlie altitude I adopt is the mean of his three results, i| namely 20,498 feet. ij The height, however, whieli at the present time is li accepted and quoted for Chiml)orazo is 21,425 feet. This i j altitude was deduced by J. Oltnuuuis (Professor of Astro- i i nomy at Berlin) fi'oui the observations of Ale.x. von i ! Humboldt, who, after determining barometrical 1}- the ele- i i vation of Eiolianiba above the level of the sea, measured j i a base 1702 metres long upon the outskirts of the town, i j and at one end of this base observed the angle of eleva- j I tion of the apparent summit of the mountain. This i ; measurement is referred to in Humljoldt's Eccncil d'Obscr- ;' ; vations Astronomiqucs, etc., 4to, Paris, 1810, vol. 1, pp. I ; Ixxii-lxxiv of the Introduction, and the annexed diagram i ; is projected from the data given in that work.^ The ■ i line drawn from A to B represents his base, and a the i ; position of the summit of Ohimborazo. This figure shews i i more clearly than words the imsatisfactory nature of the I i data from which I'rof Oltmanns calculated the altitude. i I Humboldt himself appeared to think it likely that j j there was some error in his observations; and he did 1 i so, doubtless, on account of the large difference that there 1 ; was lietween the altitude which was deduced from bis i i woi'k and that which was obtained liy La Condamine, who employed similar methods. The height of Ohimborazo as determined by La Condamine was 3220 toises ( = 20,592 feet). Juan and Ulloa (the Spanish officers who were associated with the French Academicians) in their book entitled Observacioncs Astronomicas y Phisicas heclias dc ordcn dc S. Mag. en los Beynos del Peru, 4to, Madrid, ' The length of the base A B is stated to have been ITOS'^G metres; tlie angle A B a, 98° 34' 00" ; the angle a A B, 78° 16' 20" ; and the angle of elevation of the siunniit, seen fiom A, 6° 41' 26". This figure should he eoni|iared with tig. 6, Plate 1, in the Eccucil d' Observed ions Aslroiiomiqv.es. , HAi>. XIX. HUMBOLDT'S TRIANGLE. 341 1748, p. 131, give 3380 toises ( = 21,015 feet) as the height of Chiinborazo. The French and Spanish observers, I believe, used the same data, and it is certain that either one or the other, or both, must have been in error in their calculations.^ The passage is given in tlie footnote in which Hundioldt expresses a certain amount of doubt as to his own result.- In tlie various possible causes of error wliii-li he therein mentions, lie omits to take into account: — 1. The chance of error in the lifight of his base at Eiobamba, and, 2. that neither the height iKir tlio distance of a snowy dome can lie determined with certainty unless a signal is placed ujnm it. The elevation he assigned to Eiobamlia was 9485 feet, which is 305 feet higher than the determination of Messrs. Eeiss and Stiibel, and 446 feet higher than my own.^ It seems to me possible that there ' Although the height of Chiinborazo dc?duccd by UUoa more iieaily corresponded tlian La Condamiue's with that obtained by Humboldt, the latter did not seem to jiut much confidence in it ; for towards the end of his Hirueil d' Observations Astro- nomiquts (at p. 93 of the section entitled NivdJcment iaromitriqiie) there is the following amusing passage. " Lorsqu' Ulloa descendit dans les mines de Guanaxuato, il dednisit d'une mesure barometri(jue, que la mine de Valenciana avoit une pro- Ibndeur de 1000 vares (S38 metres). L'inspecteur de la mine assura, et ayec raison, cpie cette evaluation etoit du double trop forte ; le geonietre pretendit, de son cote, que son calcul barometrique ne laissoit pas de doute. II est proliablc que le baro- nietre du savant voyageiir s'etoit derange ... On concoit aiscraent que, depuis cette ejioque, les barometres ne jouissent pas d'un grand credit aupres du mineurs du Mexiijue." - "Je n'ai pu, jusqu'a ce jour (ISIO), decouvrir aucune cause d'errcur dans ma mesure du Chimborazo. Pow expliquer une difference de 100 toises de hauteur, il faudroit supposer ou que les angles des stations avec la cime « B A et a A B fussent faux de 10'"9, ou qu'on se fiit trompe dans la mesure de la base de 91 metres, ou que Tangle de hauteur pris en A fut ti-op giaud de 21' 58". . . Je desire ardemment que, dans uu pays ou les limiieres font des progres si rapides, des hommes instruits repetent mes operations sur le plateau de Tapia, pour qu'il ne teste aucun doxite sur la veritable hauteur de la cime la jilus elevec des Cordilleres." — Eecucil cVOhs. Aslron., vol. 1, p. Ixxiv, Introd. ■' The Ecuadorian altitudes which were deduced from the barometric observa- tions of Humboldt are almost always hitjhcr (sometimes considerably higher) than those obtained from the barometric observations by Messrs. Reiss and Stiibel, and by myself. 342 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chai\ xix. was a considerable initial error in the determination of the height of liis base ; and from simple insjiection of the figui'e upon p. 340 it will be apparent that a very slight mistake in the identification of the true summit, at either of his stations A, B, would have produced a marked effect upon the distance of (( from AB, and a serious error in the deduced value of the angle of elevation, which was calculated from the distance. Humboldt's wish that his observations might be repeated has been fulfilled by his countrymen Messrs. Eeiss and Stiiltel. In their Alturas, which were printed at Quito in 1873, the height of Chimborazo is stated to be (according to Dr. lieiss) 20,703 feet. By a private communication I know that these travellers adopted for tliis measurement similar methods to those which were employed by La Condamine and Humlioldt. There are thei'efore fi\'e diffei'ont determinations of the heigiit of Chimborazo, namely : — La ConJamine . . . 20,592 feet. Juan and Ulloa . . . 21,615 „ Humboldt .... 21,425 „ Reiss and Stubel . . . 20,703 „ Whymper .... 20,498 „ The first four of these weie obtained by similar methods, and the fifth is derived from three oliservations of the mercurial barometer upon the summit of the mountain. The order in which the Great Andes of the Ec^uator sliould lie placed {so far as I am. acquainted ivith them) will be seen in the accompanying talile. Several others, wliieh arc not included, should perhaps come liefore Pichincha. There was no opportunity of measuring the mountains fif Llanganati [see pp. 97, 110], or the highest points in the range to the south of Chimborazo. Some of the loftiest peaks in the former group seemed to me to rise well ahorc 10,000 feet, and the latter were not mucli inferior in elevation, altlunitih destitute of snow. CHAP. XIX. BAXK OF THE GREAT AXDES. 343 Xame of Mountain. ACADEN ICIANS. Relss h StUbel. Whymper. / ^ r ^ ' Toises. Feet. MMres. Feet. Metres. Feet. 1. Cliimborazo . 3220 20,592 6310 20,703 6247 20,498 2. Cotopaxi 2950 18,865 5943 19,498 5978 19,613 3. Aiiti-sana 3020 1.9,313 5756 18,885 5893 19,335 4. Cayumbe 3030 19,377 5840 19,161 5848 19,186 0. Altar . 2730 17,458 5404 17,730 ... 6. Sangai 2680 17,139 5323 17,464 7. Illiniza 2717 17,375 5305 17,405 8. Tunguragua . 2620 16,755 5087 16,690 !l. Cariliuairazo 24.50 15,668 5100 16,752 5034 16,515' 10. Siucholagua . 2570 16,435 4988 16,365 11. Cotocaclii 2570 16,435 4966 16,293 4968 16,301 12. Guagua-Pichincha . 4787 15,706 4851 15,918 Rucu-Pichincha 2430 15,540 4737 15,542 13. Corazoii 2470 15,796 4816 15,801 4838 15,871 14. Riiiniuahui . 4757 15,607 15. Sara-iucu 4800 15,749 4725 15,502 1 Height of the inidcUe peak of Carihuairazo. The determinations of the Academicians are quoted from Uhtoirc de VAcadeviie Eoyale dcs Scifitcfs (annee 1746), Paris, 1751, pp. 650-651 ; and those of Messrs. Keiss and Stiibel are taken from tlieir Alliims toniadas eti la liejyuUica del Ecuador, Quito, 1S73. Tlie heights that are quoted for these iiiountains, as well as the iitlier altitudes which are given in Appendix A, depend exclusively upciu oliservations of Mercurial Barometers. The two Tortin's' which were used in the interior [see p. 33] were preserved intact t(j the end of the journey. The precautions that were taken to ensure their safety which have been mentioned upon pp. 54-.5 wnuld have heeii i;>f little avail if they liad not been supplemented \>y unceasing care on the part of Jean-Antoine Carrel, who took charge of them during the whole of the time we were amongst the mountains. When travelling over roads, or lower slopes where porterage could he (ihtahicd, lie i-uricd his 'hahies' and nothing liesides. Alxjve the snow-line he was always encumbered with "lie, and sometimes with both of them, in addition to the matters whicli it was his proper business to transport; and the fact that 344 rUAVEI.S AMONGST THE GUEAT ANDES, chap. xis. he w.as always laden witli 12i or 25 lbs. additional weight must be taken into account if com- parisons are instituted witli his rates. The conservation of these insti'uments occupied the first place in the thoughts of every one during the whole of the time we were in the interior, as they were the Standards upon which everything depended. The comparisons of the xVne- roid Barometers which were made against the Mercurials whilst in the fielil are given in Appendix C: but the account of the subseipient investigations into the Ijehaviour of Aneroids in general extends to too I'Teat length to Vie included in tliis volume, and is rendered in the pamphlet ffow to use the Aneroid Barometer} JEAN-ANTOINE AND THE BADIES. ' The following is a rocapitulatiou of the priiieipal [loints whic-li have eoiiie out ill the eoui'se of this emiiiiry. 1. All aneroids lose upon the iiieieuiial haronieter when suVpinitted to rlimiiii.sheil pressure. AVhen diminished pressure is maintained continuously, the loss eoniinoiily continues to auj,'inent during several weeks, and sometimes grows to a very import- ant amount. The most important part of any loss that will occur will take place in the fust week. The loss which takes place in the first week is greater than in any subsequent one. A considerable part of the loss which takes place in the first week occurs in the first day. The loss may be traced in a single liour, and in successive hours upon aneroids with expanded scales. The amount of the loss which occurs is different in different instruments. The amount of the loss iii any aneroid depends (n) upon the duration of time it may experience diniiiiishcd jircss- ure, and (i) upon the extent of the reduction iu jiressure. 2. 'Wlieu pressure is restored, all aneroids recover a portion of the loss which has previously occurred ; and some, in course of recovery, gain more than they have CHAl'. XIX. TEMPERA run KS ON t^UMMlTS. 345 In Appendix E, ;i tew leniarks are made npon Temperatures in Ecuador, and I refer here only tu tlmse which were experienced on Snnuuits. If there had been a constant diminution of 1° Faht. for every oOO feet of ascent from the level of the sea, temperatures at tlie tops even of the lourst of the peaks we ascended would always Date. Mountain. Height ill Feet. Temperature on Suuiuiit. Temperature at Guayaquil. ISSO. Faht. Faht, Jan. 4 (5.15 p.m.) . Chimborazo 20,498 21° 85° ( 6 p.m.) Feb. 2 (1.15 „ ) ■ • Corazou 15,871 37°-43° 79° (11 a.m.) „ 18 (6.20 a.m.) . . Cotopaxi 19,613 21° 82° ( „ ) Mar. 10 (10-11.40 a.m.) Antisana 19,335 44°-60° 80° ( „ ) „ 23 (11.15 a.m.) Picliincha . 15,918 46° 80° ( „ ) April 4 (10.45-11 a.m.) Ca,yambe 19,186 32°-41° 79° ( „ ) „ 17 (1.30-2.40 p.m.) Sara-urcu . 15,502 43°-5-55° 80° ( „ ) „ 24 (12 noon) . . Cotocaclii 16,301 36° 81° ( „ ) June 29 (11-11.15 a.m.) C'arihuairazo 16,515 38°- 42° 74° ( „ ) July 3 (1.40-2 p.m.) . Chimborazo 20,498 15°-20° 74° ( „ ) have been below the freezing-point. The above Table of Tempera- tures, ' in tlie shade,' shews those which were actually experienced. previously lost. Minus index-errors are sometimes lessened, and plus index-errors are soinetiines increased. The recovery is gradual, and commonly extends over a greater length of time than the period during which diminished pressure has been experienced. In aneroids which have been kept at diminished pressures for a con- siderable space of time [a week or upwards] the most important part of the amount that will be recovered will be regained in the first week. The greater part of the recovery of the first week is usually accomplished in the lirst day. The recovery in the first hour is almost always larger thau that in any subserpient hour. 3. The errors wdiich will probably be exhibited by aneroids during natural varia- tions of pressure may be learned approximately by submitting them to artificially- produced variations of pressure ; but the one-hour test which lias heretofore been commonly applied for ' verification ' is of little value except for determining errors of graduation, and the errors which will be exhibited at similar pressures in a similar IctHjth of time. i. Comiiarisous of travellers' aneroids against the mcrLUiial barometer at natural pressure, upon return to the level of tlie sea, after prolonged journeys in elevated regions, have not the value which is at present assigned to them. 5. Large I'eduetions will have to be made in the heights nf many positions which have been determined by aneroids. 2 Y 346 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. In all cases they were higher than might have been expected. The excess is most mai'kecl in the thiee mountains which are situated farthest to the East, namely, Sara-urcu, Cayamhe and Antisana ; and this, it seems to me, can only be accounted for liy supposing that the warm currents boi'ne from the heated Amazonian basin, by the nearly constant easterly winds, are deflected rather abruptly upwards from their natural level, tm approaching these mountain-barriers. Upon a number of occasions, abrupt transitions of tempera- ture occurred at our high camps, or whilst ascending still higher. Equally rapid changes are, however, unknown on the lower ground, and it is therefore obvious that the amount of ascent equivalent to a fall of 1° Faht. would liave been found very variable if a number of simultaneous observations of temperature had Ijeen made at spots no great distance apart, placed on ditferent levels.^ The Sxow-LIXE. — Those who are most conversant with snow- mountains generally speak with liesitation upon this subject. The difficulty consists in determining what ' the snow-line ' really is, or should be considered. If it should be the very lowest point at which any large masses of snow are found permanently, many mountains would have to be classed as entering the snow-line which are not generally admitted to be within it. The quantity ' Thus, on July 3, 1S80, at 5 p. in., on the north-western side of Cliunborazo, at an elevation of 16,700 feet, temperature in the shade was 26° '5 Faht. At the same time, at Riobamba (9039 feet) it was 50° Faht. This gives a fall of 1° Faht. for every 326 feet of elevation. On July 3, 1880, at 2 p.m., on the Summit of Chimborazo (20,498 feet), tempera- ture was 15° Faht. On tlie same day, at 2.30 p.m., at Riobamba, it was 5-l°""2 Faht. (11° R.). Tins gives a fall of 1° Faht. for every 288 feet. On this day (July 3, 1880), upon leaving camp (15,811 feet), at 5.15 a.m., tem- perature was 30° Faht. By 8.45 a.m. (at 18,900 feet), temperature in the shade had risen to 46° Faht. The sun liad not at tliat time struck the western side of the mountain. Two hours later, when in the direct rays of the sun, the heat felt oppress- ive ; and in another two hours there was a fall of at least 35" Faht. (from 50° to 15°). This abrupt drop was caused by the clouds of Volcanic Dust interceiiting the rays of, and absorliiug the heat radiated from the sun 1 CHAP. XIX. THE SNOW- LINE. 347 that sliiiukl lie found periiianeiitly iijidu any niounUiin to entitle it to 1)0 considered within the snow-line cannot be determined, and I see little utility in retaining a phrase which is incapable oC definition, and is interpreted so variously. The fullowinp; infcirnia- tion is given from personal observatiian. Range south op Chimborazo (15-16,000 feet). No permanent snow. CHmBORAZO (20,498 feet). In January, little snow below 16,600 feet on the south side, but at tliat time it extended nearly one thousand feet lower on the E. and N. sides. In June -July there was deep snow as low as 15,600 feet on all these side.s. At the same time, there was little snow below 16,700 feet upon the W. side. Caeihuairazo (16,515 feet). Very little snow below 15,000 feet in January, and much in June -July as low as 14,300 feet. Illiniza (17,405 feet). Large beds of permanent snow at 15,200 feet. CoRAZON (15,871 feet). Much snow fell almost daily upon this mount- ain down to 14,500 feet, but there were no permanent snow -beds on the E. side, althougli there were some upon the W. side. Atacatzo (14,892 feet). No permanent snow. PiCHiNCHA (15,918 feet). The snow-beds were quite trifling in extent. Cotocachi (16,301 feet). Permanent snow, in hirge beds, at 14,500 feet. Imbabura (15,033 feet). No permanent snow. Cayambe (19,186 feet). Scarcely any snow below 16,000 feet on the west side. Covered with snow at 15,000 feet on tlie eastern side. Sara-urcu (15,502 feet). Snow fell daily upon this mountain lower than 14,000 feet, and was remaining ijermanently at aliout that elevation. Antisana (19,335 feet). Permanently covered with snow at 16,000 feet on the western side. I am not able to speak about the eastern side. Sincholagua (16,365 feet). Large beds of permanent snow as low as 15,300 feet. RuMlNAHOl (15,607 feet). There was a small amount of permanent snow on the E., and none on tlie W. side. CoTOPAXi (19,613 feet). Snow fell frequently on Cotopaxi in February quite one thousand feet lower tlian it fell upon Chindjorazo in January. It was remaining permanently on the western side at about 15,500 feet. Llangaxati group. Much snow below 16,000 feet. Altar (17,730 feet). Many large snow-beds below 14,000 feet. From examination of tlic above list, it will be seen that snow is in greater abundance upon the more easterly of the Great Andes 348 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. of the Equator than upon the western ones; and is commonly found at liiwer levels upon the eastern than upon the western sides of the same mountains. Previous travellers have said little or m.itliinjj; aliout the Glaciers of Ecuador, — in some cases, it may he, Ijecause they were unable to recognize glaciers when they saw them ; or, in others, through not actually haA'ing seen any, owing to the preva- lence of had weather. Humlioldt, in the passage that is given in the f.iotnote,^ says that he did not see in the Tropics anything • resemliling the Glaciers of Switzerland ; and Boussingault states that the only glacier he saw in Tropical America was upon the mountain Tunguragua. I have been somewhat exercised to account for these statements ; and, from certain points of view, T still find them quite incomprehensible. '' Glaciers of large dimensions exist upon the Andes of the ' " Je ii'ai lien vu sous Ics tropirjues, iii a Quito, ui au Me.xique, qui ressemblc aux yhicicrs de la Suisse. J'avais pense 1° que des causes meteovologiques s'oppo- saient au changeniciit des nivis ou glaciers par Fabsorptiou de I'eau qui penetre et cimente les grains incoherents de gresil et les cristaux de neige ; 2° que les coiih'cs clc neige, source primitive de tout glacier, n'avaient pas lieu, lors meme que la fonne et la pente des vallees pouvaient favoriser leur descente, h cause du manque de volume et de poids de la neige S!m)icomft«?t to the present time, the highest known phaniogamous plant on the surface of the earth." - These will be found enumerated upon pages 199 and 333-4. ^ Ehinodrilus Ecuadoriensis [see p. 112] has been described by Dr. Benhaui in the Anmtls and Magazine of Katural Ilislonj, March 1S92, pp. 237-246. 352 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. xix. >^ o 2 '3 ."^ •^ & <^ - g d ;^ IS-C =« S H^ C -3 II j-* ^ s ^ - - ;=■ +^ Oi l»J ^ >— J ^ 3 t- s i o .2 d ^6 d odd d d d d d s^ ^^ 1 ^ « S 3 ^ S Q m ^ Q 1 Q oca o a o o o Q £ -5 d -5 d ^ < rt PQ t^ « . ... a; ;-. ^ ;-. ^. t-' i^ £; ^ S g ^ S ^ S s -S+j o o ooooooo __, o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 0) o O O'-f'Xii^D^^O^ x-^ o o o o o o o o o o o o o o .■S<£ ^ W CO iC <:D -X> (TJ ?0 CD CO OJ CO CO m o o CO o o OO O CO 00 CO ■^ pi 00 »rt" CD "^o 'io cd" ?d" cd" cd^ id" 'dT co" «r ■^ ^" \S co" «r (o o cd" to" id" cd" <].S I-H I-H r-l F-H I-H »— 1 I-H »-< I-H rH »-l o tsj i !^ -j^ c- -u :S ^_-. 3 c- 0) T3 rf 3 3 72 1 o ^ ."t^ S r^ o c o o 5 c >2l « o o o cd" o o t^ d s 1) 'm o o d d d -^ r^ r^ -—^ 'x ^-v '« IJ *• _ =1> _ CO s * ;3 S S g o "X in o vfS ee o ^ o ■: a N -a rt N N & N O- ^3 — n: c3 5 ■= .£ g rf rf ce , rt _, =e ^ ce ;-> cS ^ ffi ;_ O 'o'oceooddo o 2 d O o d d d c 6 o a o - 5 " .3 .2 o S .S 1 s go 3 o o l« « p n .1 « 1 1 -f O Ph o o o -< o O jc 5 ^ 3^3 ■ T3 • " • so . -s g3 '.^ > . . . v; ij 5 > 22 K 1 --g • iJ S ^ &, > s s ° 2 S & S „ 1 W W ^ e ^ t p^ ^ o o 2^ ^1 se c N 5 • to sew . „ S ■§ e II 1 1 i 1 P ? 1 .p §'8! ^^QJQJCJf^-^^ _^ _^ ^^ iS (S Cj Cb "^ UJ **; < tf UJ ^ o < ^4! i*; a: < UJ O 14; to LU _i < 1^ H UJ u, " d d c g |0 Q Q LU z u I <^ 9. 6 6 6 6 6 6 1 ^OQQQOQ a o Q. o CO UJ o Ill z _. 2 *i O < tr UJ z < -: - too o > _J < q: Q. > < o z UJ ir -I u. S _J U- O o -J s O 111 CHAl'. MX. BOTANICAL HIGHEST- POINT TAllLE. 353 ■E !S ■^ ^ 3 B o ry? O o o o r1 Q O Q ^ |i (S* ^ s f ^ 3 K ^ I-H CO CO m J.--. CD J.^ 10 CO ul 00 TO 00 CD in in >o -* tJH CO -1 1 CO 1 "^ ^. '^ ?3 < CD ,— ^ cr a •^ • • P .s 1 ^ h5 3 ° 4I, •^ "m "T^ '« 5 -t^ -S' -^ a- "§ '^ .■t^ 2 '3 -i^ i? ^ ^ CJ ^-^ 1 " - ^ ^ ^ is 5; 6 -5 s 2 5 j== ^"^ cS - — ^ -S 7 =s g ce ce rf +j ?! s ^-^ co' S ^ C3 ^ c3 c3 2^0 G cd o l-^Q r2 rf ^ rt c3 c3 ^' « ^ rt -^ ,0 a a .^ -^ .3 g -^ g -::3 ^ 1 ■ "S £"" t3 p.; td <1 f 1 ■s ■ ;:q -S < . . . 03 fiJ s" .?s J8 « .-"^ w -n-O 03 W . ffi OJ ■^ fc> • • af . ■3 :! S f«i « »=" g ffi W ^^ 1 1 ^ !,« ^ i "3 -a e 1 -^ 'S 1 1-5 §•§ g 1 "s> S§..g •S s,i 1 1 1 ■2 "S -s s nil k3 ^ S ^ nil &, s ^ 1^ 2 1 j 1: is: 1^ 3 i 1 1 it 6 6^^ 11 P h; UJ Hi ■ o LJ < . . u < to ** en uj 4; UJ < < UJ . < -= > ,-i uJ z cr UJ < _l -J > Hi cr LU . . . u. 5« a a < la 5 m < rr 3 z O < Z UJ UJ < (r < o > QC -J ^ X C 2z 354 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. Mykiopoda. — Amongst the species of Centipedes which were obtained in Ecuador, two, belonging to the genus Ncwi^oriia, are considered new by Mi-. I\. I. Pocock ; and have been described by him under the names X. monficola and K. dcntata in the Annals and Magaziiie of Natural Jlistori/ for August, 1890. The former of these came from La Dormida, Cayambe (11,800 feet), and the latter from the Seventh Camp on Chimborazo (12,000 feet). Two of the others, namely, Otisticjma scabricauda (Humb. & Sauss.), and Scolopocryptops Mcxicanus, Humlj. & Sauss., have a rather wide range. The first-named was obtained at various localities between 8500-12,000 feet, and the other was found nearly everywhere in the interior up to 13,300 feet. It was taken at Tortorillas (Chim- borazo), at the Hacienda of Antisana, and at many intermediate points.^ Only one species of Milli^sede was seen in the inteiior, namely, Spirobolus spinipodex, Karsch, and this was foiind as higli as 12,000 feet on Pichincha, and from 12,000 to 13,000 feet on tlie south side of Chimboi'azo. Another Millipede, ? Spirostreptus wquatorialis, Porath, was taken on the banks of the Guayas, at Guayaquil. CoLEOPTERA. — Descriptions of 104 new species, Ijy IMessrs. H. W. Bates, D. Sharp, H. S. Gorham, A. S. Olhff and M. Jacoby will lie found at pii. 7-88 in the Supplement- ary Appendix. The number of beetles obtained on this journey which, thus far, have been identified or described amounts to two liundred and six. Orthoptera. — The whole of this col- lection remains undescribed. Leaping Orthoptera were found very numerous up to the height of 12-13,000 feet, and upon Chindiorazo were olitained in the Vallon de Carrel at 16,000 feet. Ear- wigs were not generally abundant in the ' I understand from Mr. Pocock that tliis is a Mexican species, and is common in tlie West Indies and in Brazil. FORCErS OF AN EARWIG FROM CAYAMBE, E^XARGED FOUR DIAMETERS. CHAT. XIX. ORTHOPTERA AND XEintni'TKRA. 355 interior, and it was a snrprise to lind tliuni ranging so liigli as the Sixth Camp on Chimborazo (13,353 feet), and up to 14,000 i'oet (in Cayand.ie. The species on tlic I'mnier innuntain was jnst under one-half of an inch in length, and an enlarged Figure of it is given here- with, ti) assist in its future identilication. The Gayambe species was one inch in length, witli unusually large forceps. From the low country I have a species one inch and a half in length. Examples of the very curious insects called Fhas- vias were taken on the Plain of Tumliaco, in the basin of Machachi, at La Durmida, Cayauibe, and as high as 13,000 feet (in the woods) on Pichincha. Their close resemblance to sticks and twigs causes them to be readily overlooked, and many natives in the interiur had never seen them. They have, however, the local name CidxiUo dc iwlo. Neuropteka. — Dragon-flies and ^ray-llies were numerous in some parts of the interior, especially in the basin of Machachi. The greatest elevation at which they were obtained was on the track from Machachi to Pedregal (the pass between Pasochoa and llumifiaiiui). 1 hagou-flies were seen higher than 12,000 feet on EARWIG FROM 13,353 FEET ON CHIMBORAZO. Pi cliini'lia a nd Cotocachi. HvMEXOPTERA. — The Ants alone liavc been worked out, — by Mr. Peter Cameron; whose contributinn will be found at pp. 89-98 of the Siqiplemcntary Append 'n: The ' set' specimens of the 356 TRAVELH AMONGST THE GREAT AXDES. chap. xis. remainder have lieen C'Oiiipared witli the collections in the British (Natural History) Museum, and it is found that the following families and genera are included amongst them. Tlie Tintliredinidcc are represented l>y a species of Strongylogaster. There are several species of Ichneumoimhe, apparently belonging to the genera Ichneumo7i, Mesostenus, Ophion, Hcniitelcs, Cryptus, EcJithrus, and Lissonota (?). There is a single small .species belonging to the family Ghrysididw. The Dorylidw are represented by a single species, apparently belonging to Lahidus. In Scoliida' there are three handsome species of Diclis. In Pompilid(x several species belonging to tlie genera rompiliis anil Pipsis were obtained. In Sphcgulce there are two species oi Sphex. The Vespidte are represented by species of Policies and Polybia. The greater part of the collection, however, consists of Apidw (Bees), and the species oljtained appear to belong to the following genera : Mcrjacilissa, Halictus, Ceratina, Melissodcs (?), Euccra (?), Antho2}ho7-a., Megachile, Xylocopa, Euglossa, Eulema, Bomhis, Tctra- pcdia, and Trirjona. Among these, a black and white Bomlus, closely resembling a Chilian species, is particularly common. The species that are believed to come under Diclis include the formidalile insect which is figured \ipon p. 96 under the nickname of " the Bishop." TJiis seemed to be very widely distributed. It was obtained at various places between 7500-11,000 feet, and was seen as high as 12,000 feet. Another large and equally stinging Diclis was taken by myself on the Plain of Tumlmco, but was seen there only. Two large and beautiful species wliich are believed to come under Pcpsis were captured between 11- 12,000 feet on Pichincha, at 12,000 feet on Illiniza, and at a similar altitude upcm Cotocachi. These four above-mentioned insects were the largest of the Hymenoptera taken anywhere in Ecuador. Several other species were obtained as high as 12,000 feet, and two at greater elevations, namely, an Ichneumon in the (•HAT. XIX. LEPinOPTERA. 357 neiglibuuiiiuud of the lluciciidu of Aiitisuiui (1.'1,.jOO leet), and an Opliion near Tortorillas, Chiniborazo (13,300 feet). None of the Hymenopterous insects made themselves ohjeetiouahle. We were stung by them only when their lilierty was interfered with. Lepidoptek.v. — I am greatly indebted to Messrs. Godman & Salvin for having examined the ErxTERFLiES [see *SV/(/). A'pii-, pp. 96-110]. Twenty-nine species were olitaiued i'mm V300 feet upwards. Two of these, namely, Colias dvmcra, Doubl. & Hew., and Picris ■lanfhodkc, Lucas, are ex- ceedmgly numerous in tlie interior of Ecuador, and the latter species attains a greater range in altitude [from l)el()w 9000 feet to above 15,000 feet] than I observed in the case of any other Butterfly.^ The Moths ha-s'e undei-gone a preliminary examination at the hands of Mr. H. iJruce, who recognizes the following 23 genera. PIERIS XANTHODICE, LUCAS. AgrotU (7-11,800 feet). Arctia (9800). A:'.eliwi (1500). Castina (3-4000). Cidaria (1 2,500 -1 3,300). CTwmVte (3-4000). C'rambu.> ii6 a; P5 o g ^ 5 :5 p ^ dl d ^* d r— d d d d o d Cr^ d 1—4 r^ Q C Q C^ Q Q P P tM G "^ « p4 ffi ?* S S S ^ '^ Is o o O I— < o o O o o o o o o o o o o O o CO o O t^ o o o o o o o o o o o o o O o i>- GO CO OO CO GO o C30 QO o OO o ^ o o in o CO (M ■^ r- T^T co" w' in o O CO Wi" icT ccT XO ■*" cf ccT co" ^ o" co" oc" g-s I— r 1— t i-H rH I-H I-H r-H r-i r-H *"* ■"* '"' . --- ^_^ le .-^ ^ -u ^—^ ?P "rt ID 1) 1 3 a 'a 0) d d d d d 6 1 of o 1 o o J o o eft" 1 o o o O O o V3 J o 1^ o o ■=3 d d d d d 6 s o S o 13 -2 1 a 12 o o 3 _£ Q Q Q Q Q Q 1 "3 'o a; o o O o S o 6 o > Q Ph P3 Ph H Ji d s T . . . di Pi ^, d. ii ^, pj Pi p, « ^ w « « w « X M to c H G a 3 '"' a a G c S .*^ ec' • o 2 'Z3 O H .g 1 'a 1 1 1 J 1 'i -^ 2 5 s ^ 2 ^ ;3 t 'a 5 o 2 1 1 o !2i 6 o' a a 1 s 0-. i 1 S 1 ■2 .1 C5 1 1 1 §1 Si 1 i 1 c i -i 1 1 * _,_^ ' ,_^ _,_^ , ffi ,.— ^ 1" in Si e^ o < ,— . 'K 3 S 3 3" "e? rt 3 1 < D O < cr UJ p2 6 'T3 .3 .2 O s .2 d d en o < UJ H CL 1 i o < q: UJ H a. 1 < a: hi )- a. O o d t3 UJ a. Q. d d d d d d d d O I d d d O q: z d d o O Id fi Q Q fi Q Q Q Q O Q Q UJ Q P Z (r _l 1- 3 2 Z > O (T UJ >- < S O o Z X CIIAT. XIX. ZOOLOGICAL HIGHEST-POINT TABLE. 363 g "> % ^ _jj rt m 3 1 E3 SJ «3 1 1 § 1 a> ^5 rt w o 1 ™*S s 6 8 pj o -»-> = 1 ■Tj d • en I—" d d d t>^ i >> O 1-i Q 3 ed Q Q n a i 1*^ > S (5 4* . o oo O o o o I— 1 O ^ 1— 1 o 00 o o »n o o o o |l o o o o o 1-^ o 1-^ o I-l o o o o o o o o Oi in CO (N oo oo o C30 oo o OV CO CO 00 in > o o O X -5 o '3 3 3 1 53 o o O o "x X 1) o o O d 3 o d P o 1 O O 1 1 .i£ " '2 '- :5 d d £ Q '3 fi .2 3 '3 'o -^ ^ s (— 1 5 3 O Q Q O =3 42 1 X c8 _; ^, ^ ^-^ , £^ ^ ;£_, ^ c X o « 1 Q < g 6 r^; '^ ^ ^ »r 02 r^ ^ s '5 a:) e •.^ t—H 4 ,_^ 2 W M '■§ ■-+3 d Z '-i-s d d d i ai o "E* •1 s" O 5 1 o i ^ 5; o Q O Q Q a 1 '5 1 Co O -S o 1 s 1 s 'i •S 2 2 -S 8 a s ■1 S 1 1 1 1 1 1 ;2 3 "§ 'I CO • • .2 "V cS , , TS X o s « ^-v 's? ,„~^ c ." c3 ■*^ o o c ai £ s c d J, ^ ^ ""S < ^~^ s " ~ " i ^ s ^ s ci a: UJ H 0. o c < H O X o z c < d < o z d 6 o < UJ o < d < o d < X o o Q G 1— 1 UJ t— 1 Q X t— 1 ,24 a Q 1- Q P Q < q: « Q. > I- a < 3 Q. \- X CO UJ X CE tr UJ < _J cc O < o CC CO U. 364 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. that has not been described, which was taken at 11-12,500 feet on Pichincha and thirty - six miles away at 12,000 feet on Cotocachi, and was not seen elsewhere. But, for the most part, butterflies wliicli were taken at considerable elevations were also found on tlie connecting, lower ground. Thus, Picris xantho- dice, Lucas, though captured so high as 14,000 and 15,000 feet, was found everywhere in the intervening basins; and as, even had this not been so, it would need little effort for them to pass from one mountain to another, and further as they may sometimes suffer involuntary transportation, no particular stress can be laid upon such instances of occasioiial recurrence at similar elevations. One Butterfly, however, was exceptional in being found upon nearly all the mountains we visited, in numbers, and seemed to be estaljlished between the eleva- tions 12,000-16,000 feet. This is described by Messrs. Godman & .Salvin, at p. 107 of the Supplemcnt- nrji Appcndiv, as Colias aUicoIa. It was first obtained near Tortorillas, Chimborazo (13,300 feet), and was seen in the VaUon de Carrel as high as 16,000 feet. When we were encamped upon Antisana it attracted attention by the great elevation above the level of the sea at which it was flying (16,000 feet). It was seen suljsecpiently upon all the mountains we visited (except Sara-urcu) between the ele- ^ / vations of 12-15,000 feet, and was captured at 12,000 feet on Pichin- cha, at 13,000 feet on Cayamlie, and at 15,000 feet on the western side of Chimborazo, and was never either taken or seen in the basins between COLIAS DIMERA, DOUDL. & HEW. these mountains. The only other species with which this could have been con- fused is represented in the annexed Figure. This, the most common COLIAS ALTICOLA, GODMAN & SAL\'IN. CHAP. XIX. BONPLAND'S 'YELLOW BUTTERFLY.' 365 buttei-tly ill the interior of Ecuador, is found from 7:^00-11,000 feet, aud is soiuetiuies met with so high as 12-13,000 feet. The range in altitude of Colias dimcm therefore overlaps that of C. a! f kola ; but while the former species is distriljuted nearly everywhere in the interior and occasioimlly reaches a considerable height, the latter affects great elevations and is not seen on the lower ground. In- asmuch as Colias cdtkola is well estaljlished on the upper slopes of the Great Andes of the Equator, and is the only one ranging up to perpetual snow, it seems probalile that it was ' the yellow butter- fly' wliich was observed by Bonpland on Chimliorazo, in 1802 [see p. ll-t]. 8o far as is known, it attains a higher elevation than any other Butterfly on either of the two American Continents. The recurrence of species whose habits are in-terranean, at great heights, long distances apart, is perhaps more noteworthy than tlie case wliich lias just been given of a butterfly domiciled in insular situations. The following beetles were found at the localities which are mentioned, and only at those places. Approximate Species. Localities. distance apart ill miles. „ , , ,. . T. i ( Summit of Corazon 15,870 ) Colpodes dwpsis. Bates. . . ■; „• i • i , . ,r «„« 1- 24 ^ ^ ' ( Pichincha . . 14-15,000 j ( Hac. of Antisana 1.3,300 \ 0. megacephahis, Bates . . -j Cayambe . . . 12-14,000 - 36 ( Picliinclia . . 15,600 j ., ,, T, ^ ( Hac. of Aiitisana 13,300 1 ,. C. ort/,.o«u,., Bate. . . . • { eayambe . . . 12-15,000 } ^° C ste^w Bites i Picliinclia . . 14-15,500 \ L. ste7W, l^aUB (Cayarabe. . . 15,000 j *" Helicorrhynchus vnlsus, Olliff { I'^^lZ'^^^.o '. '. 1 5,800^1*^6,000 } ^^ ,, 7 rvii-tr (Pichincha . . 15,500 ) _ , Macrons calorum, Olliff . . < ^,, . , , „V,^« t ^* '■ ' \ Cnnnborazo . . 16,000 J Nanpactusparvicoli;s,OlM.i^'^^iy^^^^- ■ JJ^^^J }l20 j> , , „ ■ ,. „^ f Cotocaclii . .11,000-13,500 1 , ,. Febnatellus Andium, Bates . ■; ,„ . , ,^ , o oArv i 1^'' ' J Chimborazo . . 12-13,300 J 366 TRAVELS AMOXGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. The fact that none of these species were seen at lower eleva- tions cannot be regarded as evidence that they are restricted to the lofty positions at which they were discovered ; though it is unlikely that insects wliicli obviously found tliemselves 'at home' under the conditions tliat were mentioned at pages 113 and- 237 will be found at mucJi lower levels, enjoying much higher mean temperatures. Upon the whole, it appeared that most individual species had a comparatively small range in altitude in Ecuador. One of the most prominent exceptions to the general rule was the Moth {Erebus odora, Lin.) which was referred to upon p. 358, that was taken at the level of the sea and nearly ten tliousand feet above it. This was exceedi'd only by one other species, namely, by a Wood-louse which has been identified by the Eev. A. E. Eaton as 3fetopo7iorthns prvinosus, Brandt ; and this Kttle Crustacean seems entitled to consideration, for it must possess in a most unusual degree the power of accommodating itself to circumstances.' It now remains to sunnnarize our experiences at low pressures ; and, before recapitulating them, to offer a few general remarks upon the affections, pains and disorders which are so often called Med dc monfar/nc or Mountain-sickness. This term has lieeu in use througliout the ninetceutli century. It was originall}' adopted liecause it was observed that men and other animals were affected in various unpleasant ways upon reaching great elevations on mountains ; and, as it was unknown that the same effects could l>e produced in mid-air, in lialloon, or at the level of tlie sea by artificial reduction in pressure, it was concluded that they were iwndiar to mountains. To the present time, amongst ignorant persons, tliey are often supposed to arise from purely local causes. ' It was obtaiued among roots of trees ou the bank.s of the Guayas, just outside Guayaquil ; in the garden of Senor Gomez de la Torre at Ibarra (7200 feet) ; at the back of the Hacienda of Guachala (9200 feet) ; on the track between Antisanilla and Pinantura (11,000 feet) ; in the woods on Pichineha (12,000 feet) ; and close to the Hacienda of Antisana (1-3,300 feet). CHAP. XIX. SUMMAL'Y OF OUR EXPERIENCES. 367 "Wliile there is not the least douht tluit they are directly or iuclii-ectly produced hy diiiiinutinu in atmospheric pressure, many writers (even amongst those wlio are well convinced that this is the true cause) continue to speak, when discussing mountain- sickness, solely of elevation above the level of the sea and ignore pressiu-e ; and in this way help to perpetuate the false idea that it is an effect of altitude. In the remarks that ftillow, less promin- ence will be given to the heights wliich were reached than to the pi'essures which were experienced ; though, as it is more usual to tJdilk in fed than in barometric inches, the approximately e(pii\'alent ele\'ations will Ije given with the pressures that are mentioned. Xotwithstanding the large number of allusions which had lieen made in print to Mountain -sickness, I was miable, prior to my journey amongst the Great Andes of the Equator, to tell at what pressure it was probable that we might or should be affected. I found, also, that I could not distinguish with certainty the effects which were due to diminution in pressure from those which might have arisen from other causes ; or, further, say which (if any) of the effects that might be certainly due to diminution in pressure would remain permanently if one should continue constantly at a low [iressure. These three points were those upon which I sought for information. — Firstly, at what ^yvessure shall we commence to be aflected ? SecontUy, in wJud loay shall we be affected ? Thii'dly, can one become hahitnated to loiu 2JTCsst(7-cs'>. The answer to the first question came sooner than was ex- pected. At a pressure of 16 '500 inches (16,664 feet) we were incapacitated for work [pp. 48-5.3], and found oiu'selves pre- occupied liy the paramcjunt necessity of obtaining air. All pains had been taken to eliminate the possiljility of complications from other causes, and I repeat [see p. 52] "that our 'incapacity' at this time was neither due to exhaustion nor to deficiency of bodily strength, nor to weakness from want of food, but was caused l)y the whole of our attention being tidcen up in eftbrts to get air." 368 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. Three things were especially noticeable — («) the suddenness with which we were vanquished ; and (h) the simultaneous collapse of the Carrels and myself; although (c) Mr. Periing remained unaffected. Before being overcome in this way, no symptoms were re- marked in ourselves/ and during the attack the only external indication that we were affected was gi^'en Ijy lalioured respiration, accompanied by spasmodic gasps or gulps; but conjoined there was intense headache, and (what others have termed) an indescrib- able feeling of illness, pervadmg almost the whole body. This attack, which came upon us so suddenly, passed away very gi'adually, by such infinitesimal degrees that I am unable to say when we entirely recovered from it. It seemed to arri-\'e at a maximum quickly, to remain equally intense for several hom-s, and it then died away imperceptibly. Wliile it lasted, there was feverishness, marked acceleration in the rate of the pulse, and rise in body temperature [pp. 49, 52]. Twenty-four hours after its commencement there was a distinct improvement in the condition of the Carrels ; the intensity of their headaches had diminished, and the ' indescribable feeling of illness ' had disappeared. Twelve hours earlier than this it was possilile to satisfy our wants for air by breathing through the nostrils alone. At 1 p.m. on Dec. 28, I was able to keep my moutli shut during the ten minutes requisite for taking my temperature. Thirty-six hours after the commencement of the attack, the Carrels were much l}etter, and became eager to continue explora- tion. Anticipating that they might be adversely affected iqion sustaining I'urther diminution in pressure, I directed them not to endeavour to reach a great elevation [p. 53], Init gave no reasons ' Our animals, liowever, shewed decided signs of exhanstiou before pressure had fallen to 17 inches [see p. 46], and they were nearly dead beat by the time they arrived at the Second Camp (16'500 Indies). If more attention had been paid to ourselves, I do not doubt that premonitory symptoms would have been noticed. My e.xcuse, or explanation, is given on pp. 44, 51. I was taken unawares, not expecting to be all'eeted so soon. CHAP. XIX. EVIDEXCEB OF DETERIORATIUN. 369 fur the instruction; and they, imagining that the ascent of the niimntain was the first consideration, made a push for the summit [[I. riO]. They were away nearly tweh'e hours, and during tliis time experienced reduction in pressure from 16 '500 to about 15-100 inches, while ascending from 1G,664 to 19,300 feet. Upon return, tlieii- condition closely approached complete exhaustion. They staggered like men in an advanced state of intoxication, and threw themselves d(.)wn and went to sleep without either eating or drinking [p. 59].^ During the time they had lieen absent, my own condition had materially improved; and thus it appeared that although there was a likelihood we should become halntuated to a pressure of IG'oOO inches, there was a probability that we should be further affected at still lower pressures. This determined the position of the Third Camp (10-000 inches; 17,285 feet). ^Vhile transport was being effected between the two posts, it seemed that we had grown weaker, and we certainly were [p. 61] "comparatively hfe- less and feelile, and had a strong disposition to sit down." By January 2, headaches had nearly departed, feverishness had dis- appeared (my temperature had fallen to 9*7°- 9 Faht.), and the circulation had gone back to the normal rate ; but respiration continued to be affected, and it was found that we could not satisfy our wants for air, wliik in movement, except by breathing through nostrils and mouths. Under the further fall in pressure which occurred when ascend- ing on January 3 to the foot of the Southern AValls of C'himborazo (16-000 to 15-290 inches) it was remarked that the rate of travel- ling was unusually slow ; and this was more distinctly seen on the f(jllowing day when mounting to the sunnait (pressure declining from 16-000 to l-l'lOO inches). At a little above 19,000 feet, I noticed that " our paces got shorter and shorter, until at last the ' At the time of tlieir return, no oiiiiiitui could he fornieil as to their rate. 11' two hours were oecuiiied in halts, and ten hours in inovenieut, the mean of their ascending and descending rates would be only 526 feet per hour. 3b 370 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. six. toe of one step almost touched the heel of the next one." Our rate on this day was deplorable, partly o\ying to exceptional softness of the snow [p. 71]. Circumstances then compelled me to leave Chunborazo [p]i. 78-80] and to descend to lower levels. Between Jan. 12 and Feb. 17, the highest pressure observed was 22 '156, at Anibato, and the lowest was 16 '348 inches, on lUiniza [p. 133]. Upon February 18-19, we stayed at or close to the summit of Cotopaxi (19,500 to 19,613 feet) for twenty-six consecutive hours, with the barometer standing at 14'750 inches, witliout any serious inconvenience [p. 150]. This was the greatest length of time we remained continuously at so low pressure. As we were not 'incapacitated' upon Cotopaxi, it was not likely that we should be very acutely affected upon Antisana or Cayambe. Headache did not occur at all, while ascending these considerable mountains ; and nothing w'as noted that could be attributed to ' rarefection of the air ' except the feeling of lassitude and want of bodily strength, which always manifested itself at the lower and lowest pressures [pp. 61, 70, 150, 235]. The spirit indeed was willing Ijut the tiesh was ^veak. Upon Cayambe there was convmcing evidence that my two assistants were less vigorous than usual [p. 235]. After quitting Cayambe, the liar(jraeter was not again seen standing below 16 inches until tlie second a.scent of Chunborazo; and upon this occasion our experiences did not differ from those last mentioned. No one had headache ; but, while in movement, all found it was necessary to breathe through the mouth as well as through the nostrils. When at rest, sufficient air could lie obtained through the nostrils alone ; and on the summit I was able to keep my mouth shut for ten minutes while observing my temperature. Excluding the time passed on the flat coast land, we were 212 days in Ecuador, and the nights were passed at the pressures and elevations mentioned upon the next page. CHAP. XIX. FKJiiitsum ;fe' j'..\r i* -a w^S ime ipie halt inut lO O 00 o t^ o C tM o o o o in --■ CO 00 00 00 CO CS lO CM CI o 00 rt ^Sx-5 ri CD r-l CO rH rM cc ^ •- CN "* O O C 00 X 00 CO CO CO o o r— 1 17-1 »p cc a> (M Oi C-l •^1 f>l CO cc C' CM ,—t c:s S g' O -tP o CD CD CO co^ o^ o -t P." 00 O CO 1^ cT 1-' os' c: zo cd" CO o" 5: Qi +3 .85 s rH IM r-. 1 1 1 o r—t r-H 1 1 (M lit a lof inf 1 1 1 Q lO lO lO '^ 1 1 OS 1 1 1 f>1 1 o 1 CO 1 1 7-t iSi a) 00 X 00 o CO 00 00 CO CI -t t^ 1 — 1 ^ t^ I-^ o" lO \n lo" -t^" -^ o" co' in'' 1 o o o o o o o o o o o o O: O 03 o t^ ^ -* 00 CO o (N in M CT —1 9 9 9 o\ -r CO 00 1- 1- S-l o OS Od to CO cb I- l^ i i 1- 1^ t— i i •< T~t r—t 1—i '-' " ;L« «• CO T— 1 lO OS (M lO rH 00 ^ CO 00 r^ rH Ii°l CO t^ 1^ r^ CO -* 05 OJ CO CD 05 rH CO '"' r-* t-' r-H cq 1>I (M CO 03 y: yi' T3 • "d • '3 OJ .s ■ 'S 'c5 "ct K' r-* t2 . M M d "S tS « o p ^ .ti t„ -« -fj _; -*^ -*J _: +J N 6 <-. C o N o S O ills 1 O o o I •" *^ ^ u P- ^ f^ ^1 X 'a 2 5 o = o t < .s z o to ^ £| 3 UJ m < +^ >- "^ < s o ^ ■J. I o < 1- - o = o S ^1 z ~ < cr < I q: < X N -p < p cr — o = m P 2 ■; o _ S S 5 Q y o o ^^ s 5 O p 3. ^ ^ -^p I -g Ts -73 p^ p. Ph Pn p , p-( ^ ^ • ^ ^ .^ g s s s £ g 2 s s C3 ee eS s C3 ^ ce H p H o s oo o o a o Ph CO -f CO 1^ C2 00 1^ o -t CM a. m CT 03 -S '^ - 1 5 ' ' ' -t' p 3 ' p, r E -3 >-» ^ r^ -5 CHAP. XIX. ETIDENCES OF IIAIIITUATION. 373 the rates. Fow of these examples can properly lie compared with each other ; for, besides the I'easou given upon p. 299, on some occasions the party was larger or smaller (and this always exerts an influence) ; and sometimes we were laden and at others unen- cumbered. The condition of the weather has also to be taken into account. Upon the whole these observations afford indications that we became somcidiat habituated to low pressures. If the entries at January 3, 6 and 7 are compared, a continuous advance will be noted. This, however, was partly due to increasing familiarity with the ground which was traversed. There is stronger e\idence of improvement on Feb. 18, when over a much longer course the mean rate was faster than on the shorter one of January 3 ; and tliis was exceeded upon March 10 and April 4 when we were unembarrassed liy natiA'es. The nature of the work upon Illiniza and Cotocachi was similar, and through absorption of time by step- cutting the rates upon those mountains were slower than upon I'otopaxi, Antisana or Cayambe. Comparison of the entries at Feb. 9, April 24 and June 9 shews no deterioration, although there is little sign of progress. There is a more marked contrast between the rates of January 4 and July 3, but this is modified if due allowance is made in the first ease for the exceptional softness of tlie snow, in the second one for the greater simplicity of the route. But although it seemed that we did become somewhat habitu- ated to low pressures, and that this was shewn amongst other ways by improvement in sjjeed, it appeared to me that the best of our rates were inferior to those which we should have attained over the same ground at higher pressures ; and I brought this point to the test related upon pp. 300-301, and obtained from that experiment evidence that I was materially affected by, and weakened at, a pressure of 21 inches (9850 feet). It need scarcely be remarked that this observation has a very wide interest ; for, if it is reaUy the case that the bodily powers are lessened under 374 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. prolonged diniinution in pressure, the fact must affect all calcula- tions which may be made on the basis of higher pressures either in respect to the marching of troops, transport by animals, the labour of the navvy, or any other desci-iption of work dependent upon muscular exei'tion. In reviewing the whole of our experiences, two different sets of effects could be distmguished ; namely, those which were transitory, and those which were permanent, — tliat is to say, permanent so long as we remained at low pressures. The transitory effects were acceleration of the circulation of the blood, increase in the temperature of the body, and pressure on the blood-vessels. The permanent ones were augmentation of the rate of breathing and disturbance of the habitual manner of respiration, indisposition to take food, and lessening of muscular power. The whole of these, doubtless, were due to diminution in pressure, l:>ut the transitory ones, presumaldy, vrre j^roduccd hy some cause which was itself only temporary} There are strong grounds for believing that they are due to the expansion (under diminution of external pressure) of gaseous matter within the body ; which seeks to be liberated, and causes an internal pressure that strongly affects the blood-vessels. While equilibrium was being restored between the internal and external pressure, the ' indescrib- able feeling of illness ' gradually disappeared, and headache died away; and it may be reasonably expected that these 'acute' troubles can l)e escaped liy taking pains to avoid abrupt diminutiim of pressure.- 1 During the whole time we were in Eeuador, neither witli onrselvcs nor among the people who were employed, was there anything oliserved of the nature of hemorrhage, vomiting, or nausea (although among our viandcs there was .something that would have strained the stomach of an ostrich [see pp. 61 and 207]); and it thus appear.s that these unpleasant features are not indispensable accompaniments of life at great elevations. - Or, on the contrary, suffocation may be expected, probably accompanied by hemorrhage, by persons who submit themselves to a very rapid reduction in press- ure (either in balloon, or artifieially), if they have previously been living for some length of time with the barometer at 29 to 30 inches. CHAP. XIX. THE EFFECT ON UEHPIHATION. 375 From the ' permanent ' effects there is no escape. Tlie large increase iu the rate of respiration aiul the compulsory breathing through open mouths were caused by involuntary efforts to make up for the decrease in the density of the air by imbibing a gi'cater volume. It was possible, without any great effort, at a pressure of 14'7o0 inches (19,600 feet), to sustain life, irhilc at rest, by increas- ing the volume of air inspii'ed, and thus in some measure to compensate for the reduction in its density (which was then half that of air at the level of the sea). But wJicn in movement it became difficult to enlarge the breathing capacity to the extent necessary to meet the further demand for air which was tlie result of muscular exertion ; ^ and, notwithstanding the increased efforts which were put forth to meet tliis demand, there was, in all probaliility, a considerable deficiency in the weight and value of the amount which was imltilied. Wlien the effects consequent upon experiencing diminution in atmospheric pressure were first noticed, it was guessed that they were in some way due to a peculiarity in the air. Father Joseph de Acosta was amongst the earliest to mention the subject, and in Book III of his Nat u red & Mored Hisforji he devotes a Chapter to " Some mervellous effects of the windes, which are in some partes of the Indies," giving first a few prefatory remarks upon sea-sickness, which he says "it be true that the motion of the shippe lielpes much, iu that it moves more or less, and like- wise the infections and ill-savours of things in the shippe ; yet the proper and naturall cause is the aire and the vapors of the sea. . . It is proved by many experiences, that the aire of the sea is the chiefe cause of this strange indisposition"; and, ha\-ing settled to his own satisfaction that the air of the Tho ininiimity from headache of Mr. Peniiig and others who acconiiianied us I consider was due to their having lived for a considerable length of time at lower [iressures than ourselves. ' In ascending a mountain, the respiration is quickened liy two causes — (1) by nmsculav exertion, and (2) \>y diminution in pressure. These act independently of each other. 376 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. sea is the principal cause of sea-sickness, he goes on to express his belief that the air at great heights is the cause of mountain- sickness. " I thought good," he says, " to speake this, to shew a strange effect, which happens in some partes of the Indies, where the ayre and the wind that rains makes men dazie, not lesse, but more than at sea. Some liold it for a fable, others say that it is an addition ; for my parte I will speak what I have tried. There is in Pern a liigh niountaine which they call Pariacaca, and having heard speake of the alteration it bred, I went as well prepared as I could . . . but notwithstanding all my provision, when I came to mount the stairs, as they call them, wliicli is the top of this niountaine, I was suddenly surprized with so mortall and strange a pang that I was ready to fall from my beast to the ground ; and although we were many in company, yet every one made haste (without any tarrying for his companion) to free himselfe speedily from this ill passage. Being then alone with one Indian, whom I intreated to keeji me on my beast, I was surprised with such pangs of straining and casting as I thought to cast vp my soul too ; for having cast vp meate, Heuguie, and choUer, both yellow and greene, in the end I cast vp blood, with the straining of my stomacke. To conclude, if this had continued, I should vndoubtedly have died ; but this lasted not above three or four houres, that we were come into a more convenient and naturall temperature. . . Some in the passage demaunded confession, thinking verily to die ; others got off their beasts, bceing overcome with casting . . . and it was tolde me that some have lost their lives there with this accident. . . But commonly it dooth no important harme, onely this, paine and troublesome distaste while it endures : and not onely the passage of Pariacaca hath this propertie, but also all this ridge of the mountaine, ■which runnes above five hundred leagues long, and in what place soever you passe, you shall find strange iutemperatures, yet more in some partes than in other, and rather to those which mount from the sea than from the plaines.^ . . And no doubt but the \\'inde is the cause of this intemperature and strange alteration, or the aire that raignes there. . . I therefore perswade my selfe, that the element of the aire is there so subtile and delicate, as it is not proportionable with the breathing of man, which requires a more grosse and temjierate aire, and I beleeve it is the cause that doth so much alter the stomacke and trouble all the disposition." ' The reason of this being that the Andean slopes on the side of the Pacific are usually steeper than those upon tlie east of the chain. A more abrupt reduction iu pressure is consequently experienced. CHAP. xix. PROFESSOR PA UL BERT. 377 At the eiul of this highly intiTostiiig passage, hj some process of reasoning that is not manifested, Father Acosta shrewdly guesses that the air is ' delicate ' at great heights,^ and " is not proportion- aljle with the breathing of man, which requires a more grosse aire." Suljsequently, when diminution in atmospheric pressure was demonstrated by means of the barometer, men spoke of the effects of ' rarefaction of the air,' though without having a distinct idea liow it operated ; and after the discovery of oxygen they began to lay all the troubles to want of oxygen, which it seems to have been thought settled in the atmosphere like sediment in muddy water. Latterly, Professor Paul Bert endeavoured to shew that no troubles would occur through diminution in pressure (or rarefac- tion of the air) if one imbilied sufficient oxygen ; and he carried on a long series of laboratory experiments with the ultimate aim of offering practical suggestions for the guidance of mountain- travellers and aeronauts. His two final experuueuts, with the conclusions at which he arrived from them, are related in his own wolds at the end of this volume. It will lie seen by reference to Appendix J (where these expermieuts are given at full length), that Prof. Bert observed the rate of the pulse was accelerated when pressure was reduced, that it fell again when pressure was restored, and that he noticed it was temporarily reduced upon imluliing oxygen. He considered tliat in tlie inhalation of oxygen he liud discovered a panacea for all ills arising from diminution in pressure, and at the conclusion of his Ijook {La Prcssion Baroiiu'friqiie) gave various 'practical hints' for the guidance of mountain-travellers and aeronauts. At p. llOo he suggests that the former class might carry metal cylinders, weighing 28-|- lbs., holding .330 litres of oxygen com- pressed to one-thirtieth of its ordinary bulk, an amount which he calculates would suffice for one man Inr iwav than an liour (at what elevation or pressure is not stated); and at p. 1061 he ' Tlie Barometer had not been invented when Acosta's Kaiurul d- Mural History was first printed (1590). 3c 378 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. mentions twenty litres per minute as the Imfif quantity tliat a party of three persons would require at an elevation approximately corresponding to the upper 5000 feet of Mo\int Everest. Thus, if a trio should encamp upon ]\Iount Everest at the height of 24,000 feet, and pass an entire day in ascending and desceniling tlie final 5000 feet, and a second night at the camp (say thirty-five hours in all at 24,000 feet or higher), the least quantity that would he re- quired (according to Prof I'aul Bert) would lie 20 litres X 2100, say 200 hogsheads of oxygen. Peeling, no doubt, that there might be ditticulty in transporting and instalUng this amount, he adds (p. 1104) that "it would certainly be preferable to produce the oxygen on the spot," and says that " scientific expeditions of long duration to the higldands of Tiliet, Ladak, and the Pamir could perfectly well carry the necessary apparatus." The recent voyagers in these regions do not, however, appear to have adopted Prof. Bert's suggestions, and so far as I am aware they have not been followed by a single mountain-traveller. Amongst the practical hints offered liy Prof. Bert for the guidance of aeronauts, who may aspire to reach great elevations, there are to be found the recommendations to make " mi repas d'aliments substantiels " before departure ; to eat frequently while ascending ; to go slowly at great heights (that is to say, to mount gradually) ; and, especially, " in order to be completelj' safe," to inhale oxygen — doing so confimiovdjj when higher than 5 to GOOO metres (16,405 — 19,686 feet).^ "If these precautions," he says, "had been taken with the Zenith, there would liave been no catastrophe to deplore." This is a reference to the fate that befell two aeronauts (Croce- Spinelli and Sivel) who were experimented upon by Prof. Bert on March 9, 18*74. He shut them up in his metal cylinder and reduced pressure to about the equivalent of 24,000 feet above the sea. They iniliibed oxygen ; noticed that the rate of their pulses ' Want of space obliges me to eomiiress these directions. Tlicy will be found at |i]i. 1094-96 of La Prcssion liaruriulriquc. CHAP. XIX. THEORY. 379 fell temporarily, and seeiaed fascinated by the experiment. They received, however, several very emphatic indications of the danger attendant upon r«^J!(Z diminution of pressure,^ which were con- firmed upon an actual balloon ascent made thirteen days later. Taking no warning from these premonitory symptoms, on Apiil 15, 1875, they left the eartli at 11.35 a.m., and in two hours rose to the lieight of aliout 26,000 feet, and for two hours more hovered about 26-28,000 feet. At the end of this time both were found suffocated, with their mouths full of blood ; but neither the time nor the elevation at which tliey died is known exactly, as M. Tissandier, the sole survivor of the party, was rendered insensible, and thus was unable to give a complete account of the affair. Various suggestions were made as to the immediate cause of their death, and upon these Prof Bert remarks (p. 1075) that none deserve to be reproduced, they are " old ideas, already condemired " ; and to the end of his volume (which was published three years after the catastrophe — allowing him ample time to reconsider his posi- tion) he maintains (1) that deficiency of oxygen was the cause of the death of these aeronauts and of all the evils that are produced V)y diminution in pressure, and (2) that artificial inhalation of oxygen is the sovereign remedy. It does not appear that he t<:iok the practical course of remaining in his cylinder fur a lengtli of time, at a pressure corresponding to that wliicli proved fatal to his pupils.- If he had done this, and had emerged alive, he would ha\-e made out a strong case. Prof Bert omits to state what effect is produced on Eespiiation ' Notwithstanding the drauglits of oxygen, tlieir pulses rose to 132 and 135. They cxiiei-ienced a sort of drunken sensation and could neither see nor hear clearly. One of tlieni commenced to eat and soon stopped; "and when I made," says M. Bert, "a sign to him to continue, he answered me with a gesture of disgust." Upon their balloon ascent on Mar. 22, 1874, they experienced strong pressure in the head. - Whose death seems to have exercised a deteiTcnt effect upon aeronauts. There has not been, I believe, any subsequent attempt to reach the elevation at which they perished, and I have not lieard that any one, since 1875, lias even soared so high as twenty thousand feet. 380 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. when his method is adopted ; he ignores the influence of Time, and argues as if the effect produced in a minute is similar to that wliich would he caused in an liour, a day, or a week ; and he sets an inordinate value upon the apparent checking of the rate of the pulse, which in itself, apart from other considerations, is of little moment. He assumes that the rate of the pulse is permanently accelerated while experiencing low pressures, and bases his recom- mendations upon that supposition. From the absence in his two final experiments (the crown of his work) of all reference to the effect of inhalation of oxj-gen upon respiration, and there being but one solitary observation of the temperature of the l;>ody (at the end of Exp. 257), one naturally enquires whether the rate of respira- tion and the temperature of the body were observed : and, if they were, whether a satisfactory result was noted ? Professor Bert's attention, presumably, was first directed to acceleration in the cumulation upon reduction of pressure through the frequent references which had been made to the subject by aeronauts and mountain-tra\'ellers. De Saussure was amongst the first to remark it on land,' and Gay-Lussac and Biot in balloon.- ^ " Mais de tons iios organes, cclui est le plus affecte par la rarete tie I'air, c'est eclni de la respiration. On salt ipie pour entretenir la vie, sur-tout celle des aiiiiuaux h sang cliaud, il faut iiu'uiie quantite determine d'air traverse leurs pounions dans un terns doune. Si done I'air qu'ils respirent est le douljle plus rare il faudra ipie leurs in.spirations soient le double plus frequentes, afin que la rarete soit eompensce par le volume. C'est cette acceleration forcee de la respiration qui est la cause de la fatigue et des angoisses que Ton eprouve ii ces gi'andes hauteurs. Car en menie tems que la respiration s'accelere, la circulation s'accelere aussi. Je m'eu etois souvent apperju siu' de liautes cimes, mais je voulois en faire uue cpreuve exacte sur le Mont-Blanc ; et pour que Taction du mouvement du voyage ne ]n\t pas se confondre avec celle de la rarete de Fair, je ne fis mon cpreuve qu'apres que nous fumes restcs tranquilles, on a pen pres tranquilles pendant 4 lieures sur la cime de la montagnc. Alors le pouls de Pierre Balmat se trouva battre 98 pulsations par minute ; celui de Tetu, niou domestique 112, et le mien 100. A Chamouni, egalement apres le repos, les menies, dans le meme ordre battirent 49, 60, 72. Nous litions done tons IJi dans un etat de fiLm'e." — Voyages dans Us Alpcs, % 2021, A'ol. 4, 1796. - In 1804, in balloon, when no liiglier than 8600 feet, they observed that their respective pulses rose from 62 to 80, and from 89 to 111. CHAP. XIX. FACTS. 381 Aeronauts uever remain a sufficiently long time at considerable elevations to be able to say whether the acceleration is temporary or permanent. De Saussure and others seem to have been under the impression that it always accompanies increase in the rate of respiration. In the passage given on p. 380 from Voyages dans les Alpcs, he states as a fact that " at the same time the respiration is accelerated " [under diminution of pressure] " the circulation is also cpiickened " ; and from the general tenour of the passage it is e\-ident he considered that the joint increase in the rate of the respiration and circulation was contmuous, when remaining in a state of rest at great elevations, at one constant pressure. This was not our experience amongst the Great Andes of the Eipiator. At the first, following the general (and probably the invariaUe) rule with those who sustain a considerable diminution in pressure in a comparatively short time, there was a large and very unpleasant increase in the rate of my pulse, accompanied by a consideralile rise in body temperature ; and (although they would not permit any oljservations to be made on their persons) I do not doubt that the same occurred with .Tean-Antoine and Louis Carrel, as they spoke of strong feverishness. But while contiuumg to live with the barometer standing at 16 •500 inches the pulse slowed down and idtimately fell to its normal rate; the temperature of the body also fell until it gut to its normal degree; and the sulisequent fluctuations which occurred in the rate of the pulse and in the temperature of the Ijody,^ even whilst sustaining further (Uminution of pressure, wei'e only such as could be assigned to common causes. The righting of our condition occurred in the ordinary course of nature, with(jut having recourse to artificial use of oxygen;- and I ask (1) If the unpleasant effects which were experienced upon Chimborazo [gaspings, feverishness, intense head- ache, and an indescribable feeUug of illness pervading ahnost the ' See Aiijieiidix F. - During the whole journey I did not, iiersonally, consume so nuieh as an ounce of Chlorate of Potash. 382 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. whole body] were directly due to want of oxygen, wliy did tliey not continue while we remained at a pressure of 16 '500 inches? and (2) In what way should I have benefited my circulation and temperature (when both became normal) Ity taking draughts of oxygen ? It is clear, as regards the pressures [elevations] we dealt with (which it is interesting to observe embraced those at which Prof. Bert urged continnous inhalation, namely, 5 to 6000 metres above the sea), that the artificial use of oxygen was not necessary ; and, further, that the temporary mcrease in the rate of the circulation and in the temperature of the body, and the other conjoined dis- agreeables, could not have been cUrectly due to rarefaction of the air or want of oxygen (although they occurred under duninution of pressure), and that they must have been produced, as it is sug- gested on p. 374, by some cause which was itself only temporary. In a discussion that took place in Paris, at the Academie de Medecine, after the death of Croce-Spinelli and Sivel, ]\I. Colin remarked that the gas in the human body must needs have a tendency to expand under diminution of external pressure. This was pointed out a century earlier by Haller and others. Prof. Bert, however, refused to believe that this expansion could produce an important effect, although he could not deny that it occurred. During his Experiments 256 and 257, there were e\ddences that it did occur,' and he made the following observations ui)ou tiieni. "Amongst other phenomena which ■^erai&ieA, notwithstanding the inspiration of oxygen, because they depend entii'ely upon the duni- nution in the density of the air, I mention the gaseous e^'acuations . . . respecting wliich neither aeronauts nor mountain-travellers have spoken."^ Tiiey are, no doubt, caused by expansion of internal gas, consequent upon diminution in external pressure. ' In Experiment 256 there are the following records. •' 11.25 ; gaz s'echajipant par en haut et par en bas." " 11.31 ; gaz s'echappent, et cependant le ventre reste nnpeugonfle." "11.47; des gaz s'echappent par la bouche et I'anus." "11.48; encore gaz." "11.52; encore gaz." - This has not been due to non-familiarity with the 'phenomena.' CHAP. xix. CONCLUSIONS. 383 Trot'. Bert, in nieiitiouing them, got clowe an fund dn xnjd, and llien skipped away from an nnpleasaut topic. Was this because the facts did not agree with his theory ? He seemed to fail to perceive that the I'eleased gas was only that which found a ready outlet, and to take no note of that which remained in the body, without tlie possibility of immediate escape. There are strong gi'ounds for 1 lelieviug that the sudden dizziness and headaches, the sliglit hemorrhages, the 'mortal pangs' and ' drunken sensation,' of which so many have had experience either on land, in balloon, or when sustaining artificial diminution in pressure, and the insensibility and fatal liemorrhages which have occurred in the most extreme cases, have all been caused by internal pressure ; and that the degree of intensity of the effects, and then- earlier or later appearance, depend upon the cxtetit of the diminution in pressure, the rate at irJiich it is reduced, and the length of time it is cxpcrieiiecd. An unlimited number of combina- tions can be produced when to these are added the conipLications arising from the effect on respiration of rarefaction of the aii-, and differences in indi\'idual constitutions. The various affections which have been classed together, con- fused and confounded, under tlie single term Mountain-sickness, are fundamentally caused, as I see the matter, by diminution in atmospheric pressure, which operates in at least two ways ; namely, (a), by lessening the value of the air that can be inspired in any given time, and (b) by causmg the air or gas within the Viody to expand, and to press upon the internal organs. The results which ensue i'mm A are permanent (i.e. so long as the cause exists), and are aggi-avated the more pressure is reduced. Tlie effects produced liy B may l^e temporary and pass away when equililirium has been restored between the internal and external pressure; or they may be fatal, under very large and rapid reduc- tion in pressure.^ ' Of nausea and vomiting I have no experience. They did not happen in tlie Andes, and they have never occuired either to myself, or to men in my employment, 384 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xix. It follows, if the facts have not been misinterpreted, that the evils coming under B will be minimized (in mountain-travellers) by gradual ascent, and may even be entirely avoided by keeping a constant watch over the rate of the pulse and the temperature of the body. But from the effects on respiration none can escape. In every country, and at all times, they will unpose limitations \ipon the range of man ; and those persons in the future, who, either in pursuit of knowledge or in quest of fame, may strive to reach the loftiest summits on the earth, will find themselves con- fronted by augmenting difficulties which they will have to meet with constantly diminishing powers. or in people witli whom we have been casually associated, on any mountain, in any part of the world. I imagiue that these unpleasant features (though undoulitedly occm-ring in a certain percentage of men and other animals under diminution in pressure) nnist be principally due to peculiarities of individual constitutions, or to want of judgment. Our indisposition to eat at great elevations (low pressures) has been noticed. It is not impossible, if we liad done violence to our inclinations, that we should have paid a penalty. CHArTEE XX. RETURN TO GUAYAQUIL — COXCLU.'^IOX. Although our wm-k amongst the Ctreat Audea of llio Ec^iiator was completed >ipou arrival at Chufjiupoquio, a Piililic Duty still remained to lie perlVirmeil. It had lieen eoneliuled from tlie taiue- uess of my attitude on the 17th of January [see p. 89] that travellers could be defrauded with impunity, and be kept prisoners without fear of consequences. lu the Pubhc interest, it was desii"- alile to correct this idt'u. The road-measuring was a slow operation, and when the people attached to the Tambo, out of curiosity came to inspect us, they afforded a convenient opportunity for a discourse to them upon the inii[uity of their ways ; and I emphasized my remarks in a maniifr wliich I tru.st left such an AhuYmg imjircssioii as wiU render it less likely in the future that an Englislnnan will be roliVied in this neighbourhood. "VVe departed from Kioliamfia on the Sth of duly, intending to take what is termed the liailway Eoute to (Juayaipnl ; and, mount- 3d 386 TRAVELS AMONGtiT THE (JltEAT ANDEH. chap. xx. ing the slopes that enclose the Ijasin on tlie south, arrived at dusk at the village of Nauti (10,GG9 I'eet). The next place heiug a good distance away, we stopped at the highest house or hut', which was occuijied by some half-Indians. In the night tliere were wailings and lamentations, and Canqjana came to ask if I wduld .sr// a candle, as the mother was dying, and there was not a light of any sort to lie Ibund in the whole village ! Next morning, five and a half hours of hard noing lirouylit us to the village of Guamote, and here we struck the southern con- tinuation of the IMoreno (or Quito) Eoad.' At this part, and until we diverged from it in the afternoon of July 10, it was mostly in excellent condition, — a fine, liroad highway, more than sufficient for the wants of a thickly-populated district, though passing over bleak, uncultivated moorland {paramo), which it would Ije too complimentary to term a howling wilderness. From Guamote to the end of this day's journey, we neither met nor passed either man or beast, and the natural repulsi^'eness of the surroundings was heightened by skulls and skeletons lying on each side of the road, of iinburied men who had perished in one of the revolutionary combats." At 5 p.m. we came to a large (apparently deserted) Hacienda, called Galti, and a little farther south halted for the night at a hut (11,772 feet) about three hundred feet above the road. On the lOtli, we travelled without seeing a liouse or person until we caught sight of the village of Alausi on the other side of a ' I could not learn wliat direction the road takes lietween Guamote and Cliuqui- jioquio, or even whether that section was completed. On the Route Ma]! it is not laid down to the south of Guamote, as we moved too quickly to observe its numerous changes of direction ; liut it is to he understood that we travelled over the high road between Guamote and tlic jilaco where it was quitted, opiiosite to Alau.si. South of Guamote it rises to a cousideralile elevation. I stojiped at what appeared to be the highest point for a reading of the mercurial barometer, and found there that it was about 11,362 feet above the sea. It descended ujion Galti, and rose again to about 11,500 feet. - Through this tract of country (Siliambe to Rioliamba) it is projioscd to carry the Railway whidi is to be a joy to holders of Ecuailorian lionds ! CHAP. XX. DESCENT THROUGH THE FOBEST. 387 (lot'i) valley, aiul then stopped perplexed, not knowing how to get to it, or whei'e to go. A casual man, who turned up at the right moment, said that by breaking away to the west we could make a short cut to the Bridge of Chimbo (the terminus of the Railway). AVe followed his advice, and, after many windings through a wild, wooded country, found ourselves at dusk at the commencement of the descent towards the Pacific; plunged dnwn the forest-covered slopes, and at 7 p.m. were brought to a stand by darkness when about 9000 feet above the sea. Not a soul had been seen since the casual man. All of us went to bed supperless, as the food was nearly exhaustetl. Off again soon after sunrise, we descended 4400 feet without a break, and then came to a diminutive Hacienda, called Cayandeli, where a solitary man in possession declared there was nothing to eat. During the last two days, the route had skirted the eastern side of the Range of Chimborazo. The slopes which we had now to descend were at its extreme southern end. Since leaving Eiobamba, views had been confined either to the immediate sur- roundings or to a few miles away, and ( 'hindiorazo and its allies were invisilde. The same, too, was the case with the country on the east. AVe passed Sangai without seeing it, or any of the mountains in its vicinity. On entering the forest, the range of vision became even more circvimscribed by the tortuous bends of the ever-winding track. Sometimes it was ill-marked, overgrown and readily lost.' AA^'e went astray, and at night on the 11th were still in the jungle, and retired to rest, supperless, on the top of the packing-cases. Except for the pangs of hunger, and a growing apprehension that the steamer at Guayaquil would be missed, this descent through the forest wijuld have been enjoyaltle. In the course of a day, the nakedness of the Interior changed to the luxuriance of the Tropics; the increasing warmth was grateful: and presently ' The descent commenced at about 11,160 feet above the sea, and continued without intermission for more than 9000 feet. We saw the barometer rise si.K inclies and tliree-fiuarters upon the lltli of .Inly. TRAVELS AMOXGHT THE GUEAT AXDES. chap. xx. CHAP. XX. A FRUITFUL LETTER! 389 on the inorninE; f)f tho 12th, passed throno-h forest - trees rising J no feet high, inast-hke, without a l)ranch, laden with a parasitic growtli. Then the sky liegan to Ise seen, a vista opened out — we had aiiived at the ^'alley of tlie Cliiml.io. Tlie Bridge was a wooden structure, spanning the River just liefore it turned ahruptly to the west. The Itailway was hidden away in jungle, and had to he discovered. There was no station or train: nor house or hut: nor person or means of procuring infor- mation. The right hank of the river formed the Terminus. The line ran up to the edge of the stream, without stops to prevent the I lain running into the water, and looked as if it had Ijeen cut in half liy the torrent. The only indication of civilization was a contractor's shed, mounted on wheels.' Oampana went down the rails in search of life, and learned that a train might arrive to-day, or perhcq)s it would come mafiana. We waited in hungry expecta- tion (paying off the arrieros in the meanwhile), and ahmit twelve o'clock the train \\o\q in sight, hringing three persons and nothing more. Shortly before leaving Quito, General Veintemilla spontane- ously favoured me with a letter to the Railway authorities, direct- ing them to afford every attention, assistance, etcetera. This letter was shewn to the persons in charge of the train, and they were informed that we were famished, and ready to purchase any food that could he spared. The President's letter hore fruit. The Conductor brought out two small pine-apples,'- and presented them with many polite phrases, — the pine-apples were nune ; he himself and all that he had was mine, and so fortli. I tried to hvy, but he Would not hear of it; and, as there was no time to waste, the ' On tliis jniinicy wo worn victims of tlie [iloasaiitry iif .a pprsoii at Riobamlia, wlio informed ns tliat it wonld take two day.s to get to tlu' lirirlge of Chimtio, wliere there was a capilul hutcl ; anil that we shonld find plenty of food on the way. Seeing no reason to doubt the information, surplus provisions were cleared out at Riobaniha, and we started with only a day's supply. Potatoes were obtained at Nanti, Guamote and Galti, b>it after the latter place nothing whatever could be procured. - Local products, worth ]icrlia]is ten cents apiece. 390 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GEE AT ANDES. chap. xx. pine-apples were cut up forthwith into five portions — the (Icinor consuming a share. The train ran as far as the first station smoothly, and there the engine went off the track. Wliile affairs were being rectified, I sent into the village, and having acquu'ed the materials for a good, square meal, entertained the Conductor as my guest. "Now," thought I, " that pine-apple account is Ijalanced." At Yaguachi, after again expressing my obligations, I was about to leave, when the Conductor put his hand on my shoulder and stopped me. " The fares ! " General Veinteinilla's letter was comprehensive, and might have covered anything from special trains downwards, and I remarked that it seemed to imply free transit. " No," was the reply, made with admu-able readiness, " it embraces everything exccjit that." " How nmch ? " " Three pesos and a half apiece." I paid the amount like a lamb, and was going off, when the Conductor again stopped me. " There is the bag- gage." "How much?" I paid his charge, but there still seemed to be something on his mind. " Is there anything else ? " " Yes, Senor ; your MrccUcnct/ has forgotten to pay for the 2nne-ap2>!i'^ •' " ' ' The Ecuadorian Railway was commenced under the auspices of tlie Govern- nient. It i.s now in the hands of a Company, and its construction, I am informed, is being puslied on actively. In 1SS8, the section was opened from Duran (opposite to Guayaquil) to Yaguachi, and it is said that several kilometres are finished beyond the Bridge of Chimbo (now called Chimbo). From this latter point to Sibambe is only 15 miles in a direct line, but the distance by the railroad (as laid nut) will lie 50 miles, and upon this section there will be a rise of 7727 feet. I have no information as to the direction in which it is proposed to carry this line (after passing Sibamlie) beyond that which is furnished in the Hejwii from Mr. Alfred St. John (Quito, July 14, 1891), where it i.s .stated that "a French syndicate has obtained a concession from the Equatorian Congress for the purpose of can-ying the railway from Chimbo to Riohamba, and eventually to Quito, but thus far the French financiers have been unalile to raise the necessary funds. Should a satis- factory arrangement be made by the Equatorian Government with the bondholders for the settlement of the foreign debt, British capitalists might inquire into the feasibility and jirobable profitalilencss of such an luidertaking, but before embarking into it very sound guarantees should be exacted." The line has not yet arrived at Sibambe ; and, should it ever do so, it will come E. WILSON. DEL. SELECTIONS FROM THE AUTHOR'S BEDROOM OOLLECTION AT GUAYAQUIL, CHAP. XX. TROPICAL DREAMS. . 391 We went by steam-lauiieh iVmii Yaguaelii to Uuayacjuil and there separated, — Cainpafia retiirning to Quito via Bodegas, and the Carrels going liy steamer to Panama. During the next I'ort- night, I lived principally in the hotel called The Ninth of October ; where, although in a certaui sense solitary, I was never without cijmpany. Tiie wonderful exuberance of life chased away drowsi- ness, and, when sleep came, one's ver)' dreams were tropical. Droves of mice galloped about at night, and swarms of minute ants pervaded everything. The harsh gnawings of voracious rats were sulidued h\ the softer nuisie of the tender nnisquito. These, the indigenous inhabitants, were supplemented by a large float- ing population ; and, in all, I collected fifty species of vermin in a single room. A few selections are given in the accompanying plate from ' my l.iedfellows at tiuayaquil' ^ Eleven years have elapsed since our return to Europe. Due regard to my ordinary avocations, and various inevitaWe delays have prevented this volume from appearing earUer; and I much to the edge of a tract of country without traffic or population. The Bridge of Chimbo is 1132 and Sibambe is 8859 feet above the level of the sea. Throughout the course of tlie fifty miles of line between these two places there will therefore be an average gi'adieut of 1 in 34 ; but, as it will be impossible to construct the whole witli one uniform grade, some parts will necessarily be steeper. Those wlio propose to lay out money on this line miglit enquire (I adopt the words of Mr. St. John) into "the feasiliility and proliable protitaUeness " of workiny a line witli an average gradient of 1 in 34 diu'ing the occurrence of torrential trojiical rain, and into tlie eH'ect of swiftly running water on loose soil. From this interesting though hviei Report I liml tliat [in 1S91] the trade with the interior is conducted in just the same manner as in ISSO. " Goods," it is said, "are carried on mules, horses, and donkeys. . . All the merchandize transported to and from the northern and central provinces of tlio Andean region passes through Hihahoyo and C\\i\uho, hut mostly through the former 2)Jacc. . . The railway is little used for the conveyance of goods for the higlilands, as but few animals can be procured at Chimbo, the present terminus of the line." ' CuLEOiTEUA (-2, 3, 7, 15, 18-24, 27, 28, 35). Onriloi'TKK.v (16, 25, 26, 32, -33). Hymenopter.\ (1, 8-10, 14, 34). He.mii'Teua (4, 6, 12, 31). Dii'Teua (II). SooRPioxs and Spiders (5, 13, 17, 29, 30). These are given ujotu the scale of nature. The larger species have been omitted on account of tlieir size, and the smallest ones from the difficulty of representing them. 392 TllAVELS AMOXasr THE HUEAT AXDES. chap. xx. regret that its publication comes too late to benetit uiy riglit-haml man and trusted assistant, Jean-Antoine Carrel. In the higher regions, we were at constant war with the elements; and, in com- parison with what he and liis cousin endured, liiirddiibdur cm a treadmill would have lieen pleasurable, and rest in a casual ward would have been luxury. They derived no advantage from the journey except their hard-earned j)ay, and 1 had hoped that lliis lelation of it might have procured for them some recognition of their indefatigable industry in the service of science. Men of their class are indispensable to a worker in elevated regions. Tiiey have lieen so in the past, and they will lie in the future: and, if it cannot be done as an act of justice, upon the lower ground of policy it would be expedient soinrtinicf; to acknowledge their exceptional, unrewarded services.' No commiseration need be entertained for myself The cnter- piize was my own seeking, and a tiaveller should be prepared to take the soiu's with tlie sweets. More than twenty years liave passetl since I drew out the plan of a journey amongst the Great Andes of tlie Ecpiator. Engrossed by my work, the time has Heil. Now that the toil is over, the labour is forgotten, — an instant bridges the interval: and it seems less like a jimject wbirli has been accomplished than a Dream that has yet to lie realized. ' Through the .sudden death of Jean- Autoiue t'airel in 1S90, .some of the members of his family were left in straitened cirennistanees. Ui)OU this being brought to the notice of the Royal Geographical Society liy Jlr. Douglas W. Fresh- field, the Council granted the sum of i;21 towards a Fund which was being raise Cbimborazo, First Camp 14,375 „ 2 6. ,,28-30, )T Do. Second do. 16,664 „ 4 7. Jan. 2-3, 1880 Do. Third do. 17,285 „ 3 8. 4, „ Do. Summit (see cli. xi.\) 20,545 „ 1 9. „ 3, 6, ,, Do., foot of Southern WalLs 18,528 „ 2 10. ,,14-15, „ Tandjo of Chuijuipnquio . 11,704 „ 4 11. ,,18-22, „ Ambato, level of Plaza 8,606 „ 10 12. „ 25, „ Latacunga, do. do. 9,141 „ 2 13. ,j 1) ,, Sunmiit of Tiupullo ridge 11,559 „ 3 14. f J.m, Ffli., 1 ) auil Juia' ) Maebacbi, level of high road 9,839 „ 36 15. Feb. 2, C'oraz(jn, highest reached W. side 15,131 „ 1 16. )) 5) Do. Sumndt 15,871 „ 1 17. „ 8, 10, Haciemla de la Rosario 10,356 „ 4 18. 9, Illiniza, Caiup on S. side . 15,207 „ 1 19. il '1 Do. Highest reached S. .side 17,023 „ 1 20. „ u, Hacienda of Pedregal 11,629 „ 2 21. „ 15, Cotopaxi, foot of Yanasache lava 13,455 „ 2 22. „ 10, Do. Fir.st Camp 15,139 „ 1 23. ,,18,19, Do. Second do. 19,500 „ * 24. »J ») Do. .Suuuuit . 19,613 „ 5 25. f Mar., May, | ( ami June J guito, level of chief Plaza 9,343 „ 22 26. Mar. 19, „ Do. The Panecillo 9,985 „ * From observations of Aneroid Barometers. 400 ALTITUDES DETERMINED IN ECUADOR. appendix. No. Date. Place of Observation. Altitude. No. of Observa- tions. 27. Mar. 5,1880 Hacienda (iT Anti.siuilla . 12,342 feet 1 28. 6-9, „ Do. Antisana 13,306 „ 6 29. V, „ Antisana, liightst point attaincil 17,623 „ 30. 5» )) Do. foot of Glacier, W. .-iicle 15,295 „ 31. 9-10, „ Do. Camp on . 15,984 „ 32. 10, „ Do. Summit . 19,335 „ 33. 22, „ Picliinclia, First Camp 14,007 „ 34. 22-3, „ Do. Second do. 14,992 „ 35. 23, „ Do. Summit . 15,918 „ 36. 27, „ QuL'brada of Guallabamlia (top) 9,306 „ 37. ii )) Do. do. (bottom) 6,472 „ 38. jy '» Village of Guallabamlja . 7,133 „ 39. 28-9, „ Hacienda of Guacliala 9,217 „ 40. 30, „ Do. Cliuarpongo . 9,665 „ 41. Al r. 2-5, „ Cayanibe, Camp on . 14,762 „ 42. „ 3, „ Do. Pointe Jarrin . 16,164 „ 43. „ J, „ Do. Summit . 19,186 „ 44. Jl 8, „ Do. La Dormida 11,805 „ 45. ») 12, „ Sara-urcu, Camp on 13,754 „ 46. 1» 17, „ Do. Summit . 15,502 „ 47. „ 20, „ Village of Cayamlje . 9,323 „ 48. „ 99 Hacieu Village of Moclia 10,708 „ 2 56. H li Tl \ Higliest point of the Paramo ) between Mocha and Riulianiba j 11,879 „ 1 57. June-July „ Riohamba .... 9,039 „ 12 58. June IG, „ Village of Penipe 8,100 „ 1 59. jj n T' Hacienda of Camlelaria 9,400 „ 1 60. ,,17-18, „ Camp in Valley of Collanes 12,540 „ 4 61. „ 20, „ Do. Valley of Xaranjal . 13,053 „ •2 62. „ 28, „ Carihuairazo, Camp on 13,377 „ 5 63. Do. Summit of W. peak 16,515 „ 9 64. July 1, „ Pa.s.s of Abraspungo . 14,480 „ 1 65. )» »i )i Chimborazo, Fourth Camp 14,359 „ 1 66. 1) '^i j» Do. Fifth do. . 15,811 „ 2 67. Do. Summit (see eh. xix) 20,475 „ 2 68. J5 »i 11 Do. Halt for snow-line 16,703 „ 1 69. Do. Sixth Cam]) . 13,353 „ 1 70 9, „ Village of Nanti 10,669 „ 1 71. » » 11 Road between Guamote and Galti 11,362 „ 1 72. „ 10, „ Camp aliove Hacienda of Galti . 11,772 „ 1 73. i Connnencement of the descent |^ 11,160 „ ^ ») 11 11 j towards the Pacific . / 74. 11 11 11 Camp in forest 9,000 „ * 75. 11 ^ M 11 Hacienda of Cayandcli 4,600 „ * 76. 11 11 11 La.st camp, near Bridge of Chinibo 1,430 „ * I From observations of Aneroid IJaronieters 3f UNIVERSITY ) 402 RANGE OF THE BAROMETER IN ECUADOR, appendix. B.-THE RANGE OF THE BAROMETER IN ECUADOR. The remarkable stability of the barometer in Ecuailor has been frequently noticed. It seem.? to have heen iirst publicly pointed out by La Condamine, who said that, at Quito, he found the greatest difference (during a year .') hardly exceeded a line and a half.^ This amount is equal to 0'133 of an Engli.sh inch. Shortly before my departure for Ecuador, M. Boussingault presented a Memoir to the French Academy of Sciences - dealing with this subject, and quoted 2 • 11 millimetres as the (mean ?) diurnal variation at Quito. My movements were too rapid to jjermit of a series of observations at any one point to determine the daily range, or the periodical variations, and circum- stances did not allow me even upon a single occasion to read the barometer for twenty-four consecutive hours. But so far as my observations extended they supported or confirmed previous reports resiiecting the small range of the barometer in this country. The greatest difference I observed in an}- one day in the interior was 0'134 of an inch, at Riobamba, on June 24, 1880 ; and the greatest at the level of the sea was 0-092 of an inch, at Guayaquil, on July 18, 1880. The violent storms which often raged seemed to affect the liammeter scarcely, if at all, and the variations in the height of the mercurial column were as much due to differences in the air tempera- ture as to any alterations in pressure. The highest readings recorded bj- Mr. Chambers at Guayaquil (30 feet above sea level) were : — In Dec. 1879 (max. of ob.s. on 16 days) 29-970 inches. Jan. 188(' 1 ( Feb. Mar. April June July 22 ) 29-910 20 ) 29-971 23 ) 29-921 30 ) 29-059 11 ) 29-943 10 ) 29-925 Tlie above readings are reduced to 32° Falit. ' " Nous avons eprouve a Quito jiendant des aiiiiccs enti^res, que sa plus grande difference iie passe guere une ligue et demie. M. Godiu a le jireniier reniarqud que ses variations, qui sunt a pen prus d'une ligue en \'ingt-quatre heures, out des alternatives assez r<5gulieres, ce qui ctant une fois couuu, doune lieu de juger de la hauteur moyenue du Mercure, jiar uue seule e.xperience." — Relation abreyee d'un Voyatjc fail dans Vln- Urieicr de I'Amlrique meridionale, par M. de la Condamine ; Paris, 8vo, 1745, pp. 21-'22. See also Journal dii Voi/agc, etc., par M. de la Condauiiue ; Paris, 4to, 1751, p. 109. - A resume of this was printed in the Coniplc.': Jicndns, vol. 88, Nos. 23, 24 ; pp. 1158-1165, 1240-1243, June 9 and 16, 1S79, under tlie title Jh'leriniualioH de la hauteur du mercure dans le baromUre sous I'equaleur ; ampliludc des variations diurncs baro- metriques d diverses stations dans les Cordillhes, par M. Boussingault. APPENiiix. RANGE OF THE BAROMETER LV ECUADOR. 403 Aiiiil wa.s the inily mi>nth upuii \vlui.-li lie ulj.serveil ecerii ilaji at 1 1 A.il. ami 6 P.M., ami the extreme difference between hi.s reailinL^s in that niouth amounted to 0'197 of an inch.' An Astronomical and Meteorological Observatory was estaljlished at Quito while Garcia Moreno was President of the Republic, and in October 1878 this institution commenced to publish a Bulletin,- containing baro- metric observations, made daily at 6 a.m., 2 p.m., and 10 p.m. I was informed at Quito, in 1880, that the barometer employed was not at the Oliservatory, and was at a much lower level, at the extreme opposite (southern) end of the city ; but since then its position appears to have been changed.'' From this publication I have constructed the following table, emliracing the period between September 1879-August 1880 inclusive : — 5Iax. rtiadiii^' in the Month .at Min. reading in the Month at 187 1880 tj A.M. •2 P.M. 10 P.M. t3 A.M. 2 P.M. 10 P.M. 1, Sept. . . 548-41 548-40 548-47 546-84 546-72 546-84 Oct. . . 548-38 548-12 548-41 546-73 546-69 546-39 Nov. . . 547-82 548-28 548-36 546-79 545-63 546-63 Dec. . . 548-66 549-30 549-12 545-82 545-82 545-84 1, Jau. . . 548-4-3 548-40 548-40 547-88 547-74 548-07 Feb. . . 547-87 547-44 547-77 547-00 546-54 547-08 Marcli . 548-81 547-58 547-80 547-19 546-47 546-30 April . . 547-70 547-05 547-86 545-86 544-54 545-95 May . . 547-93 548-02 548-98 545-90 545-41 546-20 June . . 547-96 547-91 548-53 545-60 545-09 546-14 July . . 548-56 547-74 548-61 545-84 546-81 547-00 Aug. . . 547-78 546-93 547-88 546-76 545-08 546-88 The readings are in millimetres reduced to 32° Falit. The highest recorded reading in the twelve months is .549-30 mm., on December 1, 1879, and the lowest 544-54 mm., on April 14, 1880; and the difference of these two, or the extreme range recorded in the Bulletin f(.ir this period is 4-76 mm., which is equal to 2-1 Paris lines, or nearly half as much again as the amount named by La Condamine. As, however, the observations published in the Bulletin are only for 6 A.M., 2 p.m., and 10 P.M., they do not give the extreme range of the Ijaroineter at Quito. La Condamine said that the barometer at Quito attained its greatest height at aliout 9 A.M., and dropped to its minimum about 3 P.M. Bou,s.sin- gault says in Comptes Rendus, 1879, pp. 1158-9, "On salt en effet que, dans les regions equinoxiales, le mercure, dans le barometre, atteint le maximum ^ In the same month the greatest difference between the readings at Quito (as recorded in the Bulletin, which is referred to in the next paragraph) was 0-157 of an inch. - Under the title Boletin del Ohservatorio Astronomico de Quito, publicado por Jiian B. Mcnten, Director dd jnismo Ohserratorio. Quito. Imjireuta nacional. ^ Tlie following note occurs at p. 66 of the Bulletin, dated October 1880 : — " Desde el 1" de setiembrc se ha variado la colocacion del Barometro lo que explica la difereucia cou los meses anteriores. " 404 RANGE OF THE BAROMETER IN ECUADOR, appendix. (lu hauteur entie 8 et 10 lieures du matin ; qu'il descend ensuite jusque vers 4 lieures de I'apres-niidi ; qu'il est a la hauteur minima entre 3 et 4 heures, jjour renionter jusqu';\ 11 lieures du soir, sans arriver toutefuis a la hauteur a laquelle il dtait a 9 lieures du matin ; qu'il s'abaisse eiifin jusqu'a 4 lieures du matin, sans tomber aussi has qu'a 4 lieures du soir ; qu'il recommence alors son evolution. C'est l.\, du moins, ce qui a lieu generalement." The observations published in the Quito Bulletin do not always accord with this statement. In some months, the means of the 2 P.M. observations are higher instead of lower than the means of those at 6 a.m. and 10 p.m., and it will be seen from the table at p. 403 that the very highest reading of the entire year is one at 2 p.m. The following observations, however, made by myself at Machachi, so far as they go, follow the law as stated by Boussingault. At Machachi. Bar. No. 558 (reduced to 32° Faht.). ISSO. 10 A.M. 11 A.M. 2 P.M. P.M. V.20 P.M. Inches. Inche.s. Inches. Inches. Inches. Jan. 26 21-135 „ 28 21-147 „ 29 21-114 „ 29 21-108 „ 30 21-163 „ 30 21-114 „ 31 21-159 Feb. 1 21-096 „ 4 21-092 ,. 5 ... 21-120 ., 11 21-134 V 27 21-099 „ 28 21-127 „ 29 21179 June 7 21-167 „ 10 ... ... 21-131 Means 21-179 21-165 21-131 21-111 21-139 The smallness of the dilferences in juessure in Ecuador, and the regu- larity of the \-ariations, render that country i)articularly suitable for carry- ing out such experiments as it is still desirable to make with the liaro- meter ; and there is probably no other region on or near to the Equator where observations can be made with such facility between the heights of 7000 to 16,000 feet AiTENDix. COMPARISONS OF THE ANEROID BAROMETER. 405 C. -COMPARISONS OF THE ANEROID AGAINST THE MERCURIAL BAROMETER. Aneroids were carried to Ecuador to endeavour to ascertain wliether the means of the readings of several, or of a number, would or would not accord with the mercurial barometer at low pressures. It has long been known that the indications afforded by a siur/le aneroid are apt to be of a very deceiving nature, even at moderate elevations ; but it seemed to me possible if several, or if a number were employed, that one might, by inter-comparison, discriminate between those which went most astray and those which held closely together ; and that, by adoption of the means of the readings of the latter, a decent approximation might lie obtained to the truth, possibly even at great altitudes. It may be added that I wished this nught prove to be the case ; for the ijortability of aneroids, the facility with which they can be read, and the quickness of their action, would render them valuable for many purposes, if their indications could be relied upon. Eight aneroids were taken. One of these, by Casella, marked No. 580, had been made for an earlier journey ; and, through being only graduated to 20 inches, was of no service for comparison at great heigh ts.^ The seven remaining aneroids were constructed expressly for the exijedition, and were under trial and examination for nearly twelve months before our departure. They were selected from picked instruments, and only those were taken such as were, so far as one coidd tell, in all re.spects as perfect as could be produced.- These seven aneroids were marked A — G. A, B, and C were graduated from 31 down to 15 inches, and D, E, F, G were grailuated from 31 down to 13 inches, — a range which I thought wouM lie suflicient for my purposes.^ It became apparent at an early stage of the journey, a. that the whole of the aneroids had acquired considerable errors ; h. that they differed amongst each other to a very large extent ; and c. that neither means of the whole, nor means of those which held clo.sest together, nor means of any combination, would give decent approximations to the truth. The more evident this became the greater importance I attached to the preservation of the mer- curials. Comparisons of the aneroids against the mercurials were neverthe- ' This was left witli Mr. Chambers at Guayaquil, as a reserve for him, in case accideut befell the St.anilard Mercurial ; and he read both instruments during the whole of our absence in the interior. " I ab.stain, however, from mentioning the names of the makers (to whom I am much indebted), lest the remarks which follow should be construed to their disadvantage. ' It proved to be inadequate. 406 COxMPABISONS OF THE ANEROID BAEOMETEE. appendix. less continued until llie end of tlie journey ;i and after two montlis' experience in the interior the Ijehaviour of the aneroids in ascending and descending was so well ascertained that one might, I think, have made use of their indicati(Mis to determine dift'eiences of level without committing very great mistakes. In the i'ollowing pages, I pivpose first to give some of my expeiiences, and tlien to draw such conclusions as apjjear to be warranted.^ § 1. Shortly before my departure from London, I made (on Octolier 25, 1879) a final comparison of the aneroids against the mercurial barometer. Only one of the aneroids corresponded exactly, and of the others some were too high and some were too low, the greatest difference between them amounting to 0-225 of an inch, and the mean of the whole shewing an error of +0-148 of an inch. § 2. Our ship stopped a clear day (November 20, 1879) at Jamaica, and I took the opportunity to carry the aneroids to the top of the Blue Mount- ains,^ comparing them against the mercurial before starting and upon return, and comparing them against each (jther at the highest point attained. The following is the complete record, and it will lie seen from it that the mean No. of Barometer. At start. At top. On return. Aneroid 580 . . . 29-980 25-430 29-975 A . . . 29-850 25-500 29-850 B . . . 29-800 25-250 29-800 C . . . 29-700 25-120 29-650 D . . . 29-850 25-400 29-880 E . • . 29-800 25-300 29-750 F . . . 29-750 25-350 29-700 G . . . 29-800 25-310 29-700 Extreme differences 0-280 0-380 0-325 Mean of aneroids . . 29-816 25-332 29-788 Merc. bar. No. 554 . . 29-876 29-854 Mean error of aneroids -0-060 -0-066 error of the aneroids (which in Lnudon was +0-148) had changed on arrixal at Kingstnn to - 0-060, and upon return in the evening of Novendjer 20 it was .still further increased to —0-066. ^ In all the conipari.soiis which are made throughout this paper the readings of the mercurial barometer are reduced to 32" Faht. - Paragraphs 1-10 sliould be read in connection with the tables at pp. 412, 413. ' Drove to Gordonstown, walked thence to Newcastle, and on until we came to a notch in the mountains commanding a view of the uortheru .side of the island. Read the aneroids at this place. APPENDIX. -COMPARISONS OF THE ANEROID BAROMETER. 407 § 3. Comparisons were again made at Colon and Gnayaquil,' and at neither of these places (at the level of the sea) was there any further in- crease in the mean error of the aneroids ; Init at Mimapamlia (where we commenced to mount the Pacific range of Ecuador) their dift'erence amongst each other had risen to 0-500 of an inch, and the mean error was increased to - 0-098 of an inch. § 4. At Tanibo Gohierno (the culminating point of the road over the Pacific range of Ecuador), 10,417 feet aliove the sea, the mean error of the aneroids had risen to - 0-487 of an inch, and the extreme difference of tlieir readings amounted to 0-715. § 5. With the descent on the other side the aneroids came more closely together, but their mean error continued to augment, — being upon arrival at Guaranda^ (8894 feet) -0-520, and it rose in one week to -0-655. The ' greatest difference ' also continued to increase, and it stood on Cliristmas Day at 0-800 of an inch. The following record, shewing the continual increases in the errors, will be found interesting. No. of Barometer. Dec. IS, 1ST9. Dec. 20, 1879. Dec. 23, 1879. Dee. 25, 1879. Aneroid A . . . . 21-700 21-700 21-700 21-600 „ B . . . . 21-170 20-960 20-940 20-870 „ D . . . . 21-460 21-430 21-450 21-390 „ E . . . . 21-500 21-500 21-500 21-440 „ F . . . . 21-220 21-030 20-950 20-800 „ G . . . . 21-400 21-380 21-300 21-300 Extreme differences 0-530 0-740 0-760 0-800 Mean of aneroids . . 21-408 21-333 21-321 21-233 Mean Marc. bar. . . 21-928 21-912 21-934 21-888 Mean errors of aneroids -0-520 -0-579 -0-613 -0-655 g 6. Upon December 26, 1879, we encamped on the Arenal (14,375 feet), at the foot of Chimborazo, and on the morning of the 27th tlie mean error of the anercjids was found to be -0-737, and their greatest difl'erence 0-880. § 7. We then moved up to the Second Camp on Chimliorazo (16,664 feet), the mean error continuing to rise, and amounting upon December 30 to -0-903. § 8. Upon arrival at the Third Camp (17,285 feet) I found that com- parisons at greater heights would have to be made between five aneroids ^ As aneroid 5S0 was left at Guayatniil, the conii»arisons are now between the seven reniaiuiug instruments. - Aneroid C was lost or stolen shortly before arrival at Gn.aranila, thus reducing the number under comparison to six. 408 COMPARISONS OF THE ANEROID BAROMETER, appendix. only, as the error which B had acquired was so large that we had already got beyond its range. The mean error of the aneroids at this point amounted to — 0-974, and their greatest difference to 1-120 inches. § 9. The aneroids D and E were alone taken to the summit of Chim- borazo on the first ascent, January 4, 1880, and these two were taken because they were working better than the others. Tlie readings on the summit are instructive. Merc. bar. No. 558 . Aneroid D 14-110 inches. 1.3-050 „ „ E 12-900 (by estimation). The mean of the two aneroids is seen to be 12-975 inches, and the error of this upon the mercurial —1-135 inches. I defer comment to a later point. § 10. Their jirolonged residence upon Chimborazo seriously affected the constitutions of aneroids F and G. The index of the latter instrument became immovalile, and the foinier was afflicted with a quivering action which set observation at defiance. Comparisons for the remainder of the journey were thus restricted to A, B, D, E only, and they are given in tlie table upon page 413 so far as is neces.sary to sujiport the statements, — a. that the aneroids acquired considerable errors ; b. tliat they differed amongst each other to a very large extent ; and c. that their means were far from the truth. § 1 1. After we had been three to four weeks in the interior, the aneroids A, B, D, E were found to hold pretty constantly together (or, speaking more correctly, their movements were haimonious), and they seemed to have acquired their maximum errors for the j)ressures at which they were used.^ Of the above four instruments B ha t^ '^* rM CN l-H CO QO 1^ I^ 00 9 C5 00 05 03 CO CO C5 CO cjn 6 05 l-H G! 03 X' 00 CD CD ^ CM CN (M »4 (M CM oi 01 (N CN f^l CN ^ '-' ^ 13 ^' ^fi " <5 CD CO CO C-l O) CTS CM 00 CO , — 1 n CO 1 — ; r-l fn I— i CO Cf) Ol CO I- CO CM CO CO -t* 1 — 1 OS 00 00 M r^ l- t^ o 0: c» 05 00 1—4 ,—1 rH ^^ rH 1^ s G-1 Gq (>< CM tM (N CN <^^ 3 eo I^ CD 10 r- r^ 00 00 t- 00 □ " ■.,■§■3 III 00 00 CO CO 00 00 CO t^ I^ r' CO CO CO CO CD CD CO rt te U d a t-r 1 1? c3 oT d Id 5 d ■^3 d~ 1 ^ 6 CO ^-1 0^ =i c n ? tc ^ S ^ J 3 1 \^ C/J 5 s c fi CO an > 1 c5 J 3 ^1 1-5 1 3 3 C d C d i 1 Q d P OS 00 rH s =: 7, K = :; K ' :; = = E = = = p -g ic" iTi „ ^ (N Ol CD t^ ^ 00 CO •0 t- 00 OJ & CM r— 1 > — * 00 CM ^ o lO i-O 00 CO i—t I— t o "O CM to 00 ^ O 05 CD CD o o o c^^ o CD o ■-I i-H rH T— * 1— 1 CM CM '-' rH i—t CM CM CM CM G-l 1— ( cq o o o o O O O O O o >o (-5 o r> r^ '-> Gq CM o a) o CD o o -* t— ( 05 1- O o (T) r-H 00 r-< r— » T-H n 1— 1 r— » oq « CO 'T' .— 1 CM Ol O ■* CM -3 ^ '3 -s ? 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CN (M (N CN (M G-l (N I-H '-' i—t r~t rH rH rH (N (M oq r—i g C3 -• ^ 3 6 ^ C S o ,o c 1 3 PL, O ^ ^ o d d" 9 a o r/5 ^ m o r/) 6 03 O o 3 w ts- dj o" o OJ c3 i O O 6 '3 3 1 1 o o 1 s i i Q 6 Q o" 6 P d c*-l o o O Is 1 ■It a 1—1 Oi o ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ „ ^ ^ ^ „ ^ ^ 00 I-H & in (N o CD r^ 00 ■o r^ a; o lO ^ o: -i^ CM CS OtJ Ci o lO »c T)< ■o -* CO . CO CO f>1 » o 1 o 1 o 1 O 1 o 1 o 1 o 1 o 1 o 1 o 1 o 1 o 1 lii o ;; = = E r p E ' P - ;: = - K = rs O o o o o o o o o O o O o o ^ o £ O c; ^ o 31 03 o CD OS X ^ r^ re o o c CD (M 00 00 X CO t~ o 05 n f>) i^ Ci o CD OS < CD o o o o r- lO CD CT ai ^ ^ t^ OS ^ OS '^ CN (^^ (M (N r-i '-' "^ ■-^ I— 1 O) rN CM CM (M CM ^ s; ■^ ^ ^ .. ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ tc „ „ ^ r. „ ^ „ < .~ rt o ^ ,^ ^ ^ o o lO o S o o O o o o o 2 CD O o r^ o 1 — 1 « c^ o ^ o o o CO o o -^ ^ ^ O o O O 0() o o n — CO OI Cf) Ci o CD o CD o ^H CD X CD CD o >> Oi ^ -f 1^ 02 OS 03 — ' fM t>4 Oi CM ■^ -^ ^ ^ .3 '-' (M G-J (M CM CM CM C OC -tJ ^ °:i .5 ,_< Ol r^ ,— 1 tN n-i lO ^ T— 1 -i< ^( rH o ■•: ." CO -t r- M ^H CM ^ 1— 1 « -i< , — 1 -t -+ gS-S •* ^ »^ CD CD (M lO lO c: O . 01 OS I-~ 5:s-3 t' f-t T-H ,_( ,-H t^ X CD CO -:f OS OS OS B = £, f— 1 OI CM (M (M (— 1 f— 1 T— < i-H ^ M (M CM • ■ +^ i o i a; o o 3 5^ O 1 i ^ O c; 1 o ■ ■ " i5 X S ffi o . =2 to "o i5 5 N "3 ^^ • o O rT a rf ° O d dj it, rt 1 2 d O d N! C3 fi « II 'a c3 .2 tS P a c 1— t u O o a o O hJ o ^— V— ' ICS K ^ X 00 •* •^ '^ •^ •^ •^ •^ ■^ •^ - '■ - »- " X t— 1 rH CO CD o o o X X c^ ;; ^ „ ,-H ^ ^ r- ° -v 5-4 c; (M Ol '"' '"' 1— 1 CM p^ S g ^ ►^ ►^ d 05 d i-H nq n ^ O CD 1^ x: ci d ^ oi n -f* o fc^ T— t tN (M (N (N c^ (N (>1 c^ (N CT w CO « CO CO CO 416 COMPARISONS OF THE ANEROID BAROMETER, appendix. prolonged periods. [ The Ijalloon test is only a repetition of tlie air-pump test. In the former ease the instruments are exposed to a natural, and in the latter case to an artificial diminution of pressure ; and if the dui-ation of time is equal in each case the results ought to corre.spond exactly.] G. That very material errors may he fallen into by regarding ' a good return ' at the level of the sea as a proof of correct working, at low pressures, of aneroids of the present construction. H. That for the detection of such errors as aneroids (of the present construction) will exhU.iit when subjected to low pressures for a length of time, aneroids should be subjected artificially to similar pressures for a long period. [ For the continuation of this subject, see the pamphlet Hoio to use the Aneroid BaromHer. ] APPENDIX. UPON BOILING-l'OIKT OBSERVATIONS. AV. D.-UPON BOILING-POINT OBSERVATIONS. Hender.^ou's boiling-point apjiaratus, and nine boiling-point tlicrmomcters, were taken lest accidents might occur to the barometers. The thermometers were self-registering ; they were constructed in two series, in order that the scales might not be too finely divided ; and they were verified in the custom- ary manner. As the barometers were not injured, it was unnecessary to depend for altitude upon the indications afforded by the boiling-point of water. Obser- vations of the boiling-point were, however, made at seventeen dift'erent stations from 8400 to 19,500 feet above the sea. for the purpose of comparison against the barometers. These observations have been worked out for altitude by Mr. W. Ellis, F.R.A.S., but are not quoted in this volume. As a general rule, three or more thermometers were boiled at each station, and in the calcula- tions for altitude the means have been used of the observations which were made on each occasion. It was found, in all cases, that the mean boiling-point at every station was higher than the corresponding barometer would lead one to expect,' from the tables which are generally accepted as authoritative, namely, Regnault's, as given in the Smithsonian Tables, Meteorological and Physical, third edition, Washington, 1859. The divergencies became more pronounced the higher we ascended, and this leads to the opinion that the tables are not perfect. I venture to take the opportunity to make a few general remarks upon the method of attempting to determine altitudes by observations of the boiling-pioint of water ; but I offer them with great diffidence, as they will be found somewhat opposed to the expressed opinions of eminent travellers, and of persons in authority. Of late years, the practice of deducing altitudes from observations of the boiling-point of water has to a consideraUe extent superseded the older method of obtaining them by observation of the mercurial barometer ; and it has been assumed (I think, erroneously) that the former method is but slightly inferior to the latter in accuracy, and is superior to it in facility. I think that any person w-ho will, even at the level of the sea, take the trouble to examine the matter for himself, will speedily be convinced that the boiling-point method is one which must always be liable to considerable errors itpon the mercurial barometer ; that mountain-travellers who have had experience of the two methods — more especially those who have experimented upon the summits of lofty peaks — will concur with me in saying that the occasions are very rare indeed upon which observations of the mercurial baro- meter cannot be made, even upon those on which high \y\\v\ and severe cold are experienced at inconvenient situations ; and that, upon the other hand, occa- ' The heights deituced from the boiling-poiut observations are consequeutly lower than the truth. 3h 418 UPON BOILING-POINT OBSERVATIONS. appendix. sions are numerous on which, from one cause or auotlier, it is impossible to make observations of the boiling-point of water under such conditions as will allow the observations to be of value. The experimentalist, when at considerable elevations, will soon learn to distrust single readings or the use of single thermometers, through noticing how- seldom his observed boiling-points accord with the ' corresponding barometric pressure,' or agree with each other ; and will consider it necessary to employ at least several thermometers and to repeat his oliservations. I find, in practice, that to do this out of doors, under favourable conditions, occupies as great a length of time, or greater, than to take two careful observations of the mercurial liarometer, a (|uarter of an hour apart.^ So far as con- venience and rapidity of observation are concerned, the balance appears to be in favour of the mercurial barometer when the conditions are favourable, and more distinctly so when the conditions are adverse. Assuming that the thermometers which are employed are boiled in the correct manner,- and with the utmost care, there yet remain several possible causes of error,^ and with thermometers of the kind usually employed, in which a degree of Fahrenheit's scale seldom extends over more than the eighth of an inch, I think an error of half a degree and upwards is probable in a single observation of one thermometer.'' To oljtain a more extended scale (to lessen the probability of error) the traveller must either carry an embarrassing numlier of thermometers, or else employ instruments of unusual and inconvenient length. Near the level of the sea, the value of one degree of the Falirenheit scale is about 0'590 of an inch on a barometer, and one inch of the barometer is ' The amount of time actually consumed in making a series of observations of the boiling-point is lunger than is necessary for several observations of mercurial barometer ; as in tlie former case undivided attention must be given to the operations, while iu the latter it is only necessary to inspect the iiistrnment at intervals, other things being done iu the meanwhile. As it is seldom possible to remain more than an hour upon a very elevated summit, every minute is of importance. - They should not be boiled in open vessels, nor immersed in the water. This, how- ever, is not unfrecpieutly done. See A note on an allerjed ascent of Cldmborazo in 1856, by Messrs. Remy and Brenchley, iu the Alpine Journal, vol. x. pp. 226-31, 1881. Also see Livingstone's Last Journals, vol. ii. p. 198, 1874. Livingstone enters iu his Journal, less than eleven montlis before his death, that " tliere is a full degree of difference lietween boiling in an open pot and in Casella's apparatus." It may, I think, be taken as certain that Dr. Livingstone would not have nuide this entry at such a time if he had been pre- viously acquainted with tlie fact. * Amongst others, the liability of mercurial thermometers to read too high by age. See the Kew certiticate at p. 397 (of the attached thermometer), and compare the error therein stated with the error on return as stated iu the Meteorological Office certificate. Also see S. W. Baker's Albert y'YanrM, vol. ii. pp. 362-3, Svo, 1866, for au iustance of a boiling-point thermometer acquiring an error of H-0'8 of a degi'ee Faht. in 4| years. This thermometer was made by Casella, and was supplied by the Eoyal Geographical Society. See also Sir S. W. Baker's Ismailiu, vol. ii. p. 562, Svo, 1874, for an example of a boiling-point thermometer apparently changing its index-error from -f 0'20 to -0"10 Faht. ■* Much larger differences than half a degi-ee Fahrenheit may be observed between thermometers which are sent out by makers of the best repute, accompanied by 'verifi- cations ' stating only infinitesimal errors. APPENDIX. UPON BOILING-POINT OBSERVATIONS. 419 about equal to 900 feet of altitude. The value of a degree of the Fahrenheit scale is therefore equal to about 531 feet. At the height of the summit of Mont Blanc the value of one degree of the Fahrenheit scale is aliout equal to 0'375 of an inch on a barometer, and at this elevation the value of one inch on a barometer is about equal to 1600 feet. In this case, the value of a degree of the Fahrenheit scale is therefore about 600 feet. From comparison of the means of a miniber of observations of the boiling- point of water, made by m^-self in Ecuador, against the mercurial barometer, when the latter was standing at 16'522 to 17'427 inches, the value of a degree of the P'ahrenheit scale, at that pressure, appears to be 613 feet. From the previous paragraphs it is seen that the value of each degree of a thermometric scale is greater the higher we ascend. It is consequently necessary, in order to obtain as good proportional results at a high level as at the level of the sea, that personal errors, and errors arising from method or instrumental defects must he lessened. This, in practice, will not, I think, be found possilile. Tlie higher we ascend the greater are the difficulties of observation. Should it, however, be found possible to obtain absolutely perfect instru- ments, and to oliserve without introducing personal errors, it remains to be seen whether the observations will accord with the ' corresponding barometric pressure.' ^ Few observations for comparison have hitherto been made of the boiling- point of water against the mercurial barometer at great heights, and I am not acquainted with any which have lieen made at greater elevations tlian those by Dr. (now Sir Joseph) Hooker in 1848-.50, liy the brothers Schlagintwcit in 1855-56, and by M. "Wisse in Ecuador in 1844-49. Dr. Hooker quotes - observations for comparison at seventeen stations above 13,000 feet, his loftiest being the Donkia Pas.s, 18,466 feet. The brothers Schlagintwcit record ■* observations at five stations above 13,000 feet, their most elevated point of observation being their camp on Ibi Gamin, 19,323 feet.* M. Wisse^ observed at only two stations above 13,000 feet. My own series ' The rem,arks wliic-li accom])any the sectiou in the .Smithsotiian Tables (Section iv. p. 96') Ujiou tlie theriuonictrical measurement of heiglits well deserve attention. " It may be seen that the heights deterniinetl by the means of the temperature of boiling- water are less reliable than those deduced from barometrical observations. Both derive the difference of altitude from the difference of .atmosiiheric pressure. But the tempera- ture of boiling -water gives only iiidlm-tly the atmospheric pressure, which is given directly by the barometer. This method is thus liable to all the chances of error which may atfect tlte measurements by means of the barometer, besides adding to them new ones peculiar to itself, the principal of which, not to speak of the differences exhibited in the various tables of the force of vajiour, is the difficulty of ascertaining with the neces.sary accuracy the true temperature of boiling-water." - In Ilimnlayan Jounmls, vol. ii. p. 458 ; Svo, London, 18.54. ' In their Resnlts of a Scientijic Mission to India and llirjh Asia, vol. ii. p. 28 ; 4to, London and Leipzig, 1862. ■* At p. 336 of the same volume, the height of this camp is said to be 19,094 feet. I ant not aware whieh determination is the more correct one. * The observations are given bv Reguault in Annales de Chimie et de Physique, vol. 28, p. 123, 1850. 420 UPON BOILING-POINT OBSEEVATIONS. appendix. includes thirteen stations at greater heights than 13,000 feet, the loftiest being the camp close to the summit of Cotopaxi (19,478 feet), the summit of Antisana (19,335 feet), and the summit of Cayambe (19,186 feet). The mean height of these three po.sitions as deduced from oliservations of mer- curial barometer is 19,333 feet. Five, four, and two thermometers respect- ively were boiled at them, and the mean error of the final results as deduced from the boiling-points at the three grouped stations is - 513 feet. In comparing this un.satisfactory record with the observations made by Dr. Hooker, I find that the majority of his boiling-point results shewed con- siderable minus errors ; and that at his loftiest station (18,466 feet) the error was - 600 feet. Upon examining the observations of the brothers Schlagintweit,' I find that their boiling-points were always higher than the simultaneously-observed barometers would lead one to expect (and, so far, they are in hai'mouy with the observations by Dr. Hooker and myself). Their errors were, however, small as compared with ours, and their results as a whole are, I think, more harmonious than it is reasonable to expect can be obtained liy a method which includes so many possiljilities of error. The information aflbrded by M. Wisse is not so copious as one could desire. The observations which are quoted in Annates de Chimie et de Physique were made by him at twenty-six dift'erent places between June 1844 and May 1849, but only five of his stations were higher than 10,000 feet above the sea, and only two of these reached 15,000 feet. It is not said whether the recorded boiling-points were single observations or the means of several ; nor is it stated whether the recorded observations are the tclwle which were made, or are only selected instances in which the boiling-point observations closely accorded with the barometric ones. From their remarkable accordance with each other it .seems not improbal:ile that this was the case. From examination and comparison of these observations as a whole it would seem by no means certain that the barometric pressure corresponding to any given boiling-point has been well ascertained ; and it would appear desirable that more comprehensive and thorough investigations in this direc- tion should be made, if it sliould continue to be the practice to attempt to determine the heights of lofty positions by observation of the boiling-point of water. But .should sucli observations be made as would determine absolutely. the boiling-point of water corresponding to every inch of the barometer, the fundamental objection to the use of this method would not be overcome, namely, that it is a cumbrous procedure, a method built up upon anotliei-, which must always (as is stated in the remarks already quoted from the Smitli- sonian Tables) be "liable to all the chances of error which may affect measure- ments by means of the barometer, besides uildimi to them new ones pceuliav to itself." This objection ajiplies (although not with equal force) to all observa- tions made liy tliis method, in every region and at any height. ' It should be noted tli.it tlie Si'lil.igiutweits enqiloyed tliermometer.s 21 iiiclR's loiii,'. This iirob.ably permitted greater reliiieiiieiit of observation. APPENDIX. TEMPERATURES IN ECUADOR. 421 ■TEMPERATURES IN ECUADOR. The tuuqxTaturcs experienced in Eciuulur were moderate liuth as regards heat and cohl. During our stay at Guayaquil in December 1879, the highest temperature ohseryed in the sliade was 85° Faht., at 1.30 p.m., on the 10th ; and on our return in July 1880, 79° at 3 p.m. on the 21st. The highest recorded by Mr. Chamliers during our al)Sence in the interior occurred on DeeemVier 21, 23, 25, 1879, on each of ^vhich days he obseryed 87'5 at 6 p.m. Altliougli these tigures do not repre.sent the maximum in tlie shade at Guayaquil, they are not, I believe, far beneath it. Temperature at this place appears to haye a very small range ; so far as I could learn, seldom rising to 90°, and not generally falling much below 65° at night. The lowest temperature I noted during our stay ^vas 70° at 7.30 a.m., on July 27, 1880. From Mr. Chambers's observations it would appear that the months December and January are distinctly warmer than June and July.^ Moving, as we did in the interior, from one place to another, at continu- ally varying elevations, it was not easy to tell whether one month -was or was not notably warmer than another ; but from the Bulletin which is printed by the Observatory at Quito- I am able to form the following table, Date. Maxiiimni observed on Minimum observed on any any Day of the Month. Day of the Month. December 1879 22-8 (8th) 4-8 (1st) January 1880 23-7 (2ud) 7-4 (2nd) February 24-0 (27th) 7-0 (12th, 13th, 22nd) March 22-9 (3rd) 5-6 (24th) April 22-5 (14th) 7-0 (20th) May 22-3 (3rd) 8-0 (2nd, 20th, 21st) June 22-8 (17th) 6-5 (3rd, 30th) July 22-6 (19th) 6-7 (6th) August 22-6 ( 2nd and 5tli) 3-5 (12th) September 23-4 (23rd) 4-1 (10th) October 20-2 (9th) 5-6(5th,6th,7th,llth) November 20-3 (29th) 6-8 (14th, 22nd) ' Tlie liead-coverings worn by Ecuadorians shew that the sun's rays are seldom so jiowerful as to be dangerous. In Guayaquil tlie Panama straw hat is very generally used, and at Quito aud other towns in the interior tall black hats are not unfrequently seen on well-to-do people, while the lower orders use ordinary felt wideawakes and straw hats. 1 did not see any persons in the whole country wearing helmets and protective devices such as are coniniouly employed in tropical or hot countries. In tlie interior the sun is not ofteu perfectly clear at niicl-day, and only on one occasion did I feel tliat its rays were sufficiently fierce to be dangerous, namely, at Guachula (0217), in March ISSO, at 8 A.M. - hoktiti del Obscrvatorin Aslronomu'o th' Quito. Imprenta uaciniial. Tlie tempera- tures are given in the centigrade scale. 422 TEMPERATURES IN ECUADOR. appendix. from which it appears tliat tlie highest maximum (24°'0) of the entire twelve months December 1879-November 1880, inclusive, occurred upon Feljruary 27th, and the lowest (20°- 2) upon October 9th, the difference between the highest and lowest maxima of the twelve months thus being only 3°' 8 centi- grade ( = 6°- 84 Faht.) The Bulletin does not record a single occasion on which the freezing- point was touched at Quito. The lowest minimum (3°-5) of the entire twelve months occurred on the 12th of August, and the highest (8°-0) upon three days in May, their ditference amounting to only 4°-5 C. ( = 8°-l Faht.) From inspection of the wdiole of the observations printed in the Bulletin, it appears that October was the coldest and January was the warmest month at Quito ; and that the difference of the means of these two months amounted to less than 4° Faht. ! i The range of the entire year, that is to say, the difference between the lowest minimum and the highest maximum, amounted at Quito to only 20°- 5 C. ( = 36°- 9 Faht.) Temperature at several of the tow-ns at which we stopped in the interior appeared to be influenced by position as well as by altitude. Thus, Machachi (9839), although scarcely 500 feet higher than Quito, was found by us to be a chilly place as compared with the capital. At the former place it was seldom as warm as 60° Faht. at mid-ilay, while at Quito I noted a higher temperature than this upon several occasions at 10 p.m. Ambato (8606), though onl}' 433 feet low-er than Riobamba (9039), seemed to possess a cheer- ful degree of warmth ; and the latter place, although less elevated, appealed to be colder than Quito. At Ambato temperature ranged from 65-70° Faht. at mid-day during our stay ; and our impression agreed with the opinion current in the eountrj' that it is a warm place. Upon this account Ecua- dorians come here from various parts when holiday-making.- The highest temperature in the sliade that we experienced anywhere in the interior, out of doors, was at the bottom of the ravine of Guallabamba (6472) on March 27, 1880. This was 75-5 Faht. The lovrst recorded dur- ing the whole journey was the minimum of the night of February 18, 1880, near the summit of Cotopaxi, namely, 13° Faht. Upon several occasions rapid changes of temperature occurred in a short space of time, the most remarkable experience of this description being that which was referre, 7. 9 „ Between Cohtn and Jamaica 101 81°-83° „ 8. 7.30 „ Do. do. 99 83° „ 9- 8.30 „ Kingston, Jamaica . 98 9 83-5 „ 14. 8 „ St. Thomas 98-2 84° 428 HUMBOLDT'S ATTEMPT TO ASCEND CHIMBORAZO. app. G. -HUMBOLDT'S ATTEMPT TO ASCEND CHIMBORAZO. "On June 9, 1802, the travellers k-ft Quito for Cliiniliorazo, and on June 23 they climbed almost to the summit of the giant mountain, at that time regarded as the highest in the world, and attained the height never before reached by any human being of 18,096 feet.^ Upon reaching an elevation of 15,600 feet, the path, relates Humboldt, became every moment narrower and steeper. The natives, with one exception, refu.sed to accom- pany us farther, and were deaf to entreaties and threatenings, maintaining they suffered more than we did from the rarity of the air. We were left alone — Bonpland, our estimable friend Carlos Montufar, a half-caste Indian from the neighbouring village of San Juan, and myself " By dint of great exertion and considerable patience, we reached a greater height than we had dared to hope for, seeing we had been almost constantly enveloped in mist. In many jtlaces the ridge was not wider than from eight to ten inches ! To our left a precipice covered with snow, the surface of which shone like glass from the effects of frost. Thi.s thin sheet of ice was at an inclination of about 30°. On the right was a fearful abyss, from 800 to 1000 feet deep, from the sides of which projected huge masses of naked rock. We leant over rather more to this side than the other, for it seemed less to be dreaded than the precipice on our left, where the smooth sides afforded no opportunity of checking a fall by catching hold of project- ing pieces of rock, and where the thin crust of ice furnished no security against being precipitated into the loose snow beneath.- " The sloping surface of snow extended to such a distance that light pieces of dolerite (the only substance at hand), when rolled down the incline, were lost sight of before reaching any resting-place. "The rock liecame more friable, and the ascent increasingly ditticidt and dangerous. At certain places where it was very steep, we were oliliged to iise both hands and feet, and the edges of the rock were so sharp that we were painfully cut, especially on our hands. . . . The loose position of the stones upon the narrow ridge necessitated extreme caution, since manj^ masses that appeared to be firmly attached proved to be only embedded in sand. "We advanced all the more slowly, as every place that seemed insecure had first to be tested. Fortunately, the attempt to reach the summit of ' It will be seen at a later point there is a claim to have reached the height of 19,286 feet.— £. II'. - At p. 308, vol. i., of K. Briihiis' Life of Humhotdt the following significant sen- tence occurs : "We feared nothing so much as the half-frozen snow." This is said in connection with an ascent of Pichincha. — E. U'. APP. HUMBOLDT'S ATTEMPT TO ASCEND GHTMBOBAZO. 429 Chimborazo had been reserved for our last enterprise among the mountains of South America, so that we liad gained some experience, and knew how far we could rely on our own powers. It is a peculiar characteristic of all excursions on the Andes, that beyond the line of perpetual snow Europeans are alwaj'S left without guides just at the point where, from their complete ignorance of the locality, Iielp is most needed. In everything Europeans are left to take the lead. " We could no longer see the summit, even by glimjises, and were there- fore doubly anxious to ascertain how much of the ascent had still to be accomplished. We opened the tube barometer at a spot where the ridge was wide enough to allow two persons to stand side by side in safety. We were only at an elevation of 17,300 feet, therefore scarcely 200 feet higher than we had attained tliree months previously upon the Antisana. "After an hour's cautious climliing, the ridge of rock became less steep, but the mist unfortunately remained as tliick as ever. One after another we all began to feel indisposed, and experienced a feeling of nausea accom- panied l\y giddiness, which was far more distressing than the difficulty of breathing. . . . Blood exuded from the lips and gums, and the eyes became bloodshot. There was nothing particularly alarming to us in these symptoms, with which we had grown familiar l>y experience. Once when upon the Pichincha, though bleeding did not occur, I was seized with such violent pain in the stomach and overpowering giddiness, that I sank upon the ground in a state of insensibility, in which condition I was found by my companions, from whom I had withdrawn for the sake of making some experiments in electricity. The elevation then was not so great, being less than 13,800 feet. On the Antisana, however, at a height of 17,022" feet, our young travelling companion, Don Carlos Montufar, had suffered sevei'ely from bleeding of the lips. All these phenomena vary greatly in different individuals according to age, constitution, tenderness of the skin, and pre- vious exertion of muscular power ; yet in the same individual they constitute a kind of gauge foi' the amount of rarefaction of the atmosphere and for the absolute height that has been attained. "The stratum of mist which had hidden every distant oliject from our view began, notwithstanding the perfect calm, suddenly to dissipate — an effect probably due to the action of electricity. We recognized once more the dome-shaped summit of Chimborazo, now in close proximitj". It was a grand and .solemn spectacle, and the hope of attaining the oliject of all our eft'orts animated us with renewed strength. The ridge of rock, only here and there covered with a thin sprinkling of snow, became somewhat wider ; and we were hurrying forward with assured footsteps, when our fnrther pro- gi-ess was suddenly stopped by a ravine, some 400 feet deep and 60 feet wide, which presented an insurmountaVde barrier to our undertaking. We could see clearly that the ridge on which we stood continued in the .same direction on the other side of the ravine ; but I was doulitful whether, after all, it really led to the summit. There was no means of getting round the cleft. On Antisana, after a night of severe frost, Bonpland had been able to travel a considerable distance upon the frozen surface of snow; but here the 430 HUMBOLDT'S ATTEMPT TO ASCEND CHIMBOIUZO. app. softness of the snowy mass proliibited sueli an attempt, and the nature of the declivity rendered it equally impossiUe to scale the sides. " It was now one o'clock in tJie day. We fixed up the barometer with great care, and found it stood at thirteen inches lly^j- lines. The tempera- ture of the air was only three degrees lielow the freezing-point ; lint from our long residence in the tropics even this amount of cold seemed quite bennmliing. Our boots were wet through with snow-water, for the sand, wliich here and there lay on the mountain ridge, was mixed with the remains of former snow-drifts. According to the Ijarometric formula given by Laplace, we had now reached an elevation of 19,286 English feet. " AVe remained liut a short time in this dreary waste, for we were soon again enveloped in mist, which hung about us motionless. We saw nothing more of the summit of Chiml)orazo, nor of the neighbouring snow mountains, far less of the elevated plain of Quito. We were isolated as in a balloon ; a few rock lichens were to he observed above the line of perpetnal snow, at a height of 16,920 feet ; the last green moss we noticed was growing about 2600 feet lower. A butterfly was captured by M. Bonpland, at a height of 15,000 feet, and a fly was ol>served 1600 feet higher ; both had been carried np into the higher regions of the atmosphere by the currents of air originating in the warmer plains below. "As the weather became increasingly threatening, we hurried down along the ridge of rock, and from the insecurity of our footing found that greater cantion even was necessary than during the ascent. We delayed no longer than sufficed for collecting fragments of rock as specimens of the mountain structure. We foresaw that in Europe we should frequently be asked for ' a'fragment from Chimborazo.' "When we were at a height of about 17,400 feet, we encountered a violent hailstorm, which gave place to snow twenty minutes before passing the limit of perpetual snow, and the flakes were so thick that the ridge was soon covered several inches deep. The danger would indeed have been great had the snow overtaken us at a height of 18,000 feet. At a few minutes ]iast two we reached the spot where we had left the mules." — Life of Hnmholdt, by Karl Bruhns, vol. i. j.]!. 31 1-315. Loudon, 1873. App. BOUSSINGAULT'S ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND CHIMBORAZU. 431 H.-BOUSSINGAULT'S ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND CHIMBORAZO. [ASCESSIOX AU ChIIIBORAZO EX^CUTEE LE 16 D^CEHBRE, 1831, PAR M. BOUSSINGAULT.] "Je ue poiivais mieux terminer mes reclierches sur les tracliytes des Cordillieres, que par uue etude si^cciale du Chimborazo. . . . J'expose ainsi les raisous qui m'ont conduit sur le Cliimborazo, jjarce que je l)lame liaute- ment les excursions perilleuses sur les moutagnes, (piaud elles lie sent pas eutreprises dans Tiuteret de la science. " De Eiobaiuba, le Cliimborazo preseiite deux pentes d'une inclinaisou tres dilKrente. L'une, celle qui regarde I'Arenal, est tres abrupte ; et Foil voit sortir de dessous la glace de iiombreux pics de tracliyte. L'autre qui descend vers le site appele ChillapuUii, noii loin de Mocha, est au coiitraire peu inclinee, luais d'une etendue considerable. Apres avoii' bien examine les envii'oiis de la moiitagne, ce fut par cette peute que nous r&oliimes de I'attaquer. Le 14 decembre, 1831, nous aUames prendre gite dans la me- tairie du Chimborazo. ... La metairie se trouve a 3800 metres de hauteur. "Le 15 a sept heures du matin, nous nous mimes en route guides par un Indien de la metairie. . . . Nous sui^•lmes en le remontant un ruis.seau encaisse entre deux mms de trachyte, dont les eaux descendent du glacier ; bientot nous quittames cette crevasse pour nous diriger vers llucha, en longeant la base du Chimborazo. Nous nous elevions insensiblement ; iios millets marchaient avec jieiiie et dithculte, au milieu des debris de roche qui sont accumules au pied de la moiitagne. La peiite devenait tres rapide, le sol etait meuble et les millets s'arretaieiit presque a chaqiie pas pour faire line longue pause, ils u'obeissaieut plus a reperoii. La respiration de ces animaux etait precipitee, haletante. Nous etions alors precisement a la hauteur du Mont Blanc, car le barometre indiqua une elevation de 4808 metres au dessus du niveau de la mer. "Apres nous etre convert le visage avec des masques de taffetas leger, atin de nous preserver des accidens que nous addons ressentis sur I'Antisana, nous commen^iimes a gi-avir une arete que aboutit a un point dtija tres eleve du glacier. II etait midi. Nous montions lentement, et, a mesure (pie nous nous engagions sur la neige, la difficulte de respirer en marchaiit se faisait de plus en plus seiitir, nous retablissions aisement iios forces en nous arretaut, .sans toutefois nous asseoir, tous les liuit on dix pas. . . . Nous atteignimes bientot un rocher noir qui s'clevait au dessus de I'arete que nous suivions. Nous continuames encore a nous elever pendant quelque temps, mais non sans ejjrouver beaucoiip de fatigue ocaisionee par le peu de consistance d'liu sol neigeux qui s'affaissait sans cesse sous nos pas, et dans lequel nous enfoncians quelquefois juscpi'a la ceiiiture. Malgre 432 BOUSSINGAULT'S ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND CHIMBORAZO. app. toils nos efforts, nous fumes bieutot convaincus de rimpossibilitu de passer en avant ; en effet, un peu au dela de la roche noire, la neige meuble avait plus de quatre pieds de profondeur. Nous allames nous reposer sur un bloc de trachyte qui ressemblait a une lie au milieu d'une mer de neige. Nous etions k 5115 metres d'elevation. II etait une lieure et demie. Ainsi apres beaucoup de fatigues, nous nous etions seulement eleves de 307 metres an dessus du point oil nous avions mis pied a terre. " En quelques instans nous etions descendus la oil nous avions laisse nos millets. J'employai quelques momens a examiner cette partie de la mon- tagne en geologue, et k recneillir une suite de roches. A trois lieures et demie nous nous mimes en route. A six lieures nous etions rendus a la nietairie. " Le temps avait &t6 magniflque, jamais le Cliiinborazo ne nous parut aussi niajestueux, mais apres notre course infructueiise, nous ne pouvions le regarder sans eprouver un sentiment de depit. Nous r^soliimes de tenter I'ascension par le c6t<5 abrupte, c'est-&-dire par la pente qui regarde I'Arenal. Nous savions que c'etait par ce cote que M. de Humboldt s'etait eleve sur cette montagne ; on nous avait bien montre de Rio-Baniba le point oil il t^'tait parvenu, mais il nous fut impossible d'obtenir des renseigiiemens exacts sur la route qu'il avait suivie pour y arriver. Les Indiens qui avaient accom- pagne cet intrepide voyageur n'existaient plus. " II etait sept lieures quand, le lendemain, nous prenions la route de I'Arenal. ... A mesure que nous avancions, le terrain s'elevait d'une nianiere sensible. En general, les plateaux tracliytiques qui supportent les pics isoles dont les Andes sont comnie lieriss^es, se relevent pen a pen vers la base de ces memes pics. Les crevasses nombreuses et profondes qui sillon- nent ces plateaux, semblent toutes diverger d'un centre commun ; elles se retrecissent en nieme temps qu'elles s'eloignent de ce centre. On ne saurait mieux les comparer qu'<\ ces fentes que Ton remarque a la surface d'un verre etoile. A neuf lieures, nous times lialte pour dejeliner :\ I'oinbre d'un enornie bloc de trachyte auquel nous donnames le noni de Pedron del Almuerzo. Je fis l:i une observation barometrique, parce que j'avais I'eppoir d'y observer egalement vers quatre lieures apres niidi, atiii de connuitre, a cette elevation, la variation diurne du baroiuetre. Le Pedron est eleve de 4335 metres. Nous depassanies sur nos mulcts la limite des neiges. Nous etions a 4945 metres de hauteur quand nous mimes pied a terre. Le terrain devint alors tout k fait inipraticable aux millets ; ces aiiimaux clierchaient d'ailleurs i nous faire comprendre avec leur instinct vraiment extraordinaire, la lassitude qu'ils ^prouvaient ; leiirs oreilles ordinairement si droites et si attentives, etaient entierement abattues, et pendant des haltes frecpientes qu'ils faisaient pour respirer, ils ne cessaient de regarder vers la plaine. Pen d'ecuyers ont probablement conduit leur monture k une serablable elevation ; et pour arriver a ilos de nuilets, sur un sol mouvaut au dela de la limite des neiges, il fallait peut-etre avoir fait plusieurs aiinees d'equitation dans les Andes. " Apres avoir examine la localite dans laquelle nous nous etions places, nous reconnfimes que pour gagner une arete qui montait vers le soinmet du Chimborazo, nous devious d'abord gravir une pente excessivemeut rapide, qui se prdsentait devant nous. EUe etait formee en grande partie de blocs de APP. BOUSSINGAULT'S ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND CHIMBORAZO. 433 roche de toutes grosseurs disposes en talus ; 9a et li\ ces fragmens trachy- tiqut's ttaient reconverts par des nappes de glace plus ou moins etendues ; et sur plusieurs points, on pouvait clairenient apercevoir que ces debris de roclie reposaient sur de la neige endurcie. " II i^tait dix lieures trois quarts quand nous avions laiss^ nos niulets ; taut que nous niarchions sur les rochers, nous n'eprouvions pas de grande difficulte, on aurait dit que nous montions un escalier en niauvais etat ; ce qu'il y avait de plus penible, c'etait I'attention soutenue qu'il fallait avoir pour clioisir la pierre sur laquelle on piit poser le pied avec quelque securite. Nous re- prenions lialeine tons les six ou liuit pas, mais sans nous asseoir, et souvent mcme ce repos etait utilise a taiUer pour ma collection des echantillons geologiques. Mais aussitot que nous atteignions une surface neigeuse, la chaleur du soleil devenait suffocante, notre respiration penible, et par conse- quent nos repos plus friiquens, plus n(5cessaires. "A 11 heures |, nous achevions de traverser une nappe de glace assez etendue, sur laquelle il nous avait I'allu faire des entailles pour assiu'er nos pas. Ce passage ne s'etait pas fait sans danger, une glissade eut cofite la vie. Nous entrames de nouveau sur des debris de tracbyte, c'etait pour nous la terre ferme, et des lors il nous fut permis de nous elever un pen plus rapide- ment. Nous niarchions en file, nioi d'abord, puis le colonel Hall, mon negre venait ensuite ; il suivait exactement nos pas, afin de ne pas comproniettre la surete des instnunens qui lui etaient confies. " Bientot nous eflmes atteint I'arete que nous devions suivre. Cette arete n'etait pas telle que nous I'avions jugee dans le lointain ; elle ne portait, a la verite, que tres peu de neige, niais elle presentait des escarpemens difflciles a escalader. II fallut taire des efforts inouis ; et la gymnastique est penible dans ces regions aeriennes. Enfin, nous arrivilnies an pied d'un niur de trachyte, coup6 a pic, qui avait plusieurs centaiues de metres de hauteur. II y eut un moment visible de decouragement dans rexpeditioii, quand le barometre nous eut appris que nous etions seulement a 5680 metres d'eleva- tion. C'etait peu pour nous, car ce n'etait pas meme la hauteur a laquelle nous nous etions places sur le Cotopaxi. D'ailleurs, M. de Humboldt avait gravi plus haut sur le Chimborazo, et nous voulions au moins atteindre la station a laquelle s'etait arrete ce savant voyageur. Les explora- teurs de montagne, lorsqu'ils sont decourages, sont toujours fort disposes a s'asseoir : c'est ce que nous fimes a la station de la Peiia-Colorada (Rocher- Rouge). C'etait le premier repos assis que nous nous permettions ; nous avions tons une soif excessive, aussi notre premiere occupation fut-elle de sucer des gla^ons pour nous desalterer. " II dtait mi
  • eu diftererament, laisser arriver les malaises jusqu'a un certain degre, pour re.spirer alors d'une mauiere continue I'air suroxygene, tout en continuant .i diminuer encore la pressiou barometrique, et voir ce qui ailviendrait." Before these further lalioratory experiments \\-ere made, MM. Crocd- Spinelli and Sivel repeated tlieir experiences, this time in Ijalloon, and upon March 22, 1874, rose until they attained a heiglit of about 24,000 feet. As before, they took occasional draughts of oxygen ; but they remained a greater length of time above the height of Mont Blanc, and were more perceptibly affected, especially M. Croce-Spinelli, who endeavoui'ed to eat at the greatest elevation. His ])idse rose to 140. APPENDIX. EXPERIMENTS FA' M. PAUL BERT. 439 Four and six days later JI. Paul Bert made his experiments, Xos. 256 and 257, in •wliicli lie reduced liimself successively to pressures about e(|uiva- lent to the heights of Chimljorazo and of Mount Everest. I am much indebteasses, mais non les hautes ; 11'' 49'° ; 630""" ; je siffle tivs-bien ; 11'' 51'" ; revenu a la ]iression normale ; j'ai seulemeiit 52 pulsations. La teiupera- ture rectale du moineau est 36°, 1 ; celle du rat 34° ; la niienne, sous la langue, 36°, 5. A 3'' 30'", le moineau n'a encore que 38°, 7 dans le rectum. Voici done une experience dans laquelle je suis arrive en une heure un quart a une pression minima de 248 millimetres, c'est-a-dire a moins d'un tiers de la pression nor- male, pendant laquelle je suis reste 45 minutes au-dessous de 400 millitnetres, sans avoir eprouve de malaise a partir du moment oil j'ai commence a respirer ri5gulii'renient I'air suroxygenc. Mon pouls est reste des lors a sou cliiffre normal ; il s'est inenie abaisse APPENDIX. EXPERIMENTS BY M. PAUL BEET. 441 vers la fin, soit a cause du loug repos dans la station assise, soit sous I'influence de la respiration d'un air siiroxygen^,. A cote de moi, un moineau et un rat se trouvaient fort nialades, et leur temperature s'abai^sait de plusieurs degres. Quant a nioi, bieu loin de courir un danger, je ne ressentais aucun des inconvenients legers de la decom- pression, ni I'etat nauseeux, ni le nial de tt-te, ni la congestion a la tete, et je n'en eprouvai pas davantage apres etre sorti de I'appareil, II me semblait meme que j'eusse pu aller beaucoup plus bas encore, sans nul encombre, et j"y etais jiarfaitement dispose, si mes pompes a vapeur, fatiguees du travail, n'eussent refuse d'epuiser davantage I'air des cylindres. Peut-etre dois-je en accuser la compUcite des personnes presentes a I'expe- rience, qui venaient frequemment me regarder a travers les hublots et, inalgre I'aspect tout a fait uaturel de nia j^liysionomie, semblaient fort elTrayees de me voir ex]tose a cette enorme diminution de pression. EUe correspondait, en efTet, a plus de SSOO metres, c'est-a-dire a une hauteur superieure a celle que les voyageurs en montagne et les aero- uantes, hormis MM. C'oxwel et Glaislier, aient pu atteindre encore. Je n'eprouvais aucun malaise a cette pression qui avait failli etre si funeste aux deux intrepides Anglais, et a laquelle devaient perir peu de mois plus tard MM. Croce-Spinelli et Sivel. These experiments, as a vliole, demonstrated that artificially-produced diminution of pressure caused effects similar to those which are experienced by travellers on the earth, or in balloon, at great elevations ; and that tlie api^earance of some of these effects may be retarded, or if they appear that they may be temporarily driven away, by inspiring oxygen. They also proved that one may descend with extreme rapidity from great heights without injurious effects appearing immediately. In his experiment No. 25G, M. Bert made a descent, so to .speak, of 15,000 feet in ten minutes ; and in No. 257 he came down 17,400 feet in nine minutes, in each case, it seemed, without taking any harm. Emboldened by the impunity which apparently could be enjoyed by the use of this simple means, MM. Croce-Spinelli and Sivel, accompanied by JI. Gaston Tissandier, upon April 15, 1875, started upon another aerial voyage. The two former died at or abotit 28,000 feet above the sea, and M. Tissandier narrowly escaped. In discussing what was the cause of the death of these two unfortunates, M. Bert says (p. 1061) that the quantitj' of oxygen they carried was insufficient for so high an ascent,^ and this may have been the case ; but it is certain that the immediate cause of the cata- strophe was not due to exhaustion of their supply, inasmuch as, when the balloon reached earth again, there was a quantity of oxygen still remaining in the ballonnets in which it was carried. The opinion of M. Bert was that no harm would have been taken if these voyagers had imbibed more oxygen, and he appears to have imagined that this was proved by the fact that he himself (while inhaling the gas) had been able to sustain a pressure of 248 mm. (=9'057 inches) for one or two minutes. This experiment, however, proved no more than that he was able to live for one or two minutes in air of abotit one-third the density of that to which we are accustomed ; and there seems every likelihood, if he had ' ■• J'etais alors absent de Paris, et prevenu par une lettre de Croce-Spinelli de leur prochain voyage, lettre dans laquelle il m'indiquait la quantite d'oxygene qu'ils allaient emporter (elle devait etre, je crois, de 150 litres), je hu fis remarquer I'insuflisance. ' Dans les liauts lieux ou cette respiration artificielle vous sera indispensable, lui disais-je. vous devez compter, pour trois homnies, sur une consommation d'au moius 20 litres par minute ; voyez comment votre provision sera vite epuisee.' " o L 442 EXPERIMENTS BY M. PAUL BEET. APPENDIX. continued for an hour or two at a pressure of 248 mm., he would have met with the same fate as his pupils. I contend that no certain conclusions can be drawn, in regard to this .subject, as to the effects which will be produced in hours from experiment.^ extending over minutes. Although it has been pointed out that the artificial inhalation of oxygen was not found necessary at the pressures which are dealt with in this volume, I by no means decry its use, or entertain the opinion that it is undesiraViIe. Mischief is unlikely to result from any quantity that a mountain-traveller will be able to imbibe, but it will always be found difficult to take such an amount as can yield substantial benefit The most that can be expected from its employment is that it may " mitigate the distressing symptoms," or, possibly, slightly retard their appearance. And, although diftering from the conclusions drawn by M. Bert, I take this opportunity to express admiration for the courage and perseverance with which he prosecuted his expeiiments ; and terminate this inadequate reference to his labours by recommending La Pression Barome'trique as a storehrmse of interesting facts. CniMBOKAZO, FKOM GUAYAQUIL. INDEX INDEX. Abraspun(;o, 86, 316, 318-19, 332, 349, 398, 401. Academicians, 16, 107, 288-93. Accident to a mule, 285-6. Acosta, Father Josepli de, 192-3, 37.^-7. Aeronauts, Introd., v-vii, 377-80, 382, 438-42. Agua Clara, 14. Aguirre iamily, 127, 1.59, 184, 205, 217. Aiguille du Dru, 299, 307. du Geant, 58. du Gouter, 229. du Midi, 58. Air (see Rarefaction of Air). Alausi, Village of, 386. Alcliipiclii, Hacienda of, 284. Alcohol, 10. Alligators, 4. Aloasi, Village of, 108. Aliiargatas, 143. Alpine Club, Introd., xii. Altar, S5-6, 96, 235-6, 296, 302, 304-8, 334, 343, 347, 349, 353, 362-4. Altitudes (see Greatest Altitudes). determined in Ecuador, 339, 395- 401. Amazons, River, 25, 92, 193, 195, 201, 239, 290. Ambato, basin of, 90, 97, 110. Bishop of, 96, 116, 356. Governor of, 87, 91. population of, 93, 295. town of, 82-3, 86, 89-97, 104, 178, 302, 316, 327-8, 370, 398, 399, 413-14, 422. Amphipoda, 117, 361, 363. Ana, tambo S., 122, 124, 138. .\ncon, 270. Aneroid Barometers, 33, 38, 56-7, 67, 70, 72, 219-21, 325, 3-31-2, 344-5, 399, 401, 405-16. Annelida (see Earth-worms). Antiquities, 256-8, 268-84. Antisana, 101, 121, 133, 145, 156, 159, 165, 184-205, 210-15, 224, 228, 230-1, 240, 2^5, 255, 262, 343, 345-7, 349, 351-3, 359, 363, 370, 372-3, 396, 400, 420, 422, 426-7, 429, 431. Hacienda of, 41, 184, 186, 188-91, 194, 196, 198-200, 204, 354, 357, 361-3, 365-6, 398, 400, 423. Antisanilla, Hacienda of, 159, 185, 188-9, 201, 204, 366, 400. Lava-stream of, 187-9, 199. Antonio, Village of S. , 265-6. Ants, 10, 355, 362. Arachnida (see .Scorpions and Spiders). Arenal, the Great, 20, 21, 24, 26, 30-1, 33, 40-3, 76-8, 86, 93, 319, 332-3. Arriaga, Padre, 275. Arrieros, 6, 9, 21, 39-40, 159, 208, 309. Arriero-courier, 47, 60, 62-3, 73. Ascents, rate of, 32, 66, 70-1, 75, 79, 149, 162, 164, 191, 198, 24-5-3, 262-3, 298, 317. 331. Ash, Volcanic (see Volcanic dust). Atacatzo, 105-6, 108-9, 167, 170, 210, 231, 347. Atahualpa, 257. Atlantic Ocean, 239. Atmospheric pressure (see Pressure). Avalanches, ice-, 78, 307, 320-1, 338. snow-, 195, 262. Azuay, Province of, 294. Bakeb, Mr. E. G., 115, 353. Sir S. W., 418. Balsabamba, Village of, 11, 15. Banks in Ecuador, 181-3. Banos, Village of, 97, 193. Baquero's Hotel, 98. Barometer, Aneroid (see Aneroid). Mercurial, Introd., .x, xii, 33-36, 53-7, 66-7, 69-72, 134, 157, 186, 195-6, 212, 219-21, 230, 232, 446 IX J IE X. 244, 249-50, 2(53, 297-8, 315, 319, 323, 325-7, 330-1, 339, 341, 343-4, 377, 395-8, 402-20. Barometer, range of, in Ecuador, 402-4. Barona, Dr. Abel, 91. Barraganetal, 14. Base-line of tlie Academicians, 288-93. Bass' Ale, 83, 178. Bates, Mr. H. W., 10, 112, 116, 137-S, 200, 222, 236-7, 332, 354, 362, 365. Batracliia, 116, 144, 334, 363. Battle-axes, 270-1. Bees (see Hymeuoptcra). Beetles (see Coleoptera). Bellew, Dr., 49. Bellows, utility of, 51. Beltran, David (of Macbaclii), 165, 218, 236, 241, 246, 297, 310-12, 314-15, 317-18, 321, 325, 327, 435. Benham, Prof. W. B., 112, 351, 362. Bert, Mens. Paul, Introd., viii, 301, 377- 80, 382-3, 437-42. Biot, Mons., 380. Bishop of Ambato, 96, 116, 356. of Rochester, Introd. , viii. Blaine, Mr., 90, 168, 175. Blanco, Rio, 313. Bodegas de Babahoyo, 2-6, 15, 360, 391. Body temperature, 52, 150, 301, 326, 368, 425-7. Bogota, 284. Bogs, 160. Boiling-point observations, 33-4, 253, 417-20. Bolivar, Province of, 294. Bolivia, Introd., .xi, 270. Bombs, A''olcanic, 138. Bonds, Ecuadorian, 177. Bonney, Prof. T. C, 65, 68, 94, 104, 111, 125, 140-1, 164, 189, 194, 212, 234, 242, 249, 263, 288, 297, 306, 316, 319, 329. Bonpland, Mons. A., 27, 113-14, 365, 428-30. Borrero, Dr., 174, 267. Botanical Tables, 352-3. Botany (see Ferns, Flowering -jilants. Fungi, Grasses, Lichens, Mosses). Bothnia, Gulf of, 288. Bouguer, Mons., 107, 111, 288. Boulenger, Mr. G. A., 363. Bous.singault, Mon.s. J. -D. , Introd., xiii, 23, 25, 27, 29-32, 41, 76-7, 185-6, 192, 236, 348, 351, 402-4, 431-5. Glacier de, 349. Brenchley, Mr., 211, 418. Brevent, 33. British Minister at Quito, Introd., xiii, 166, 172-3. Britten, Jlr. James, 352, 353. Brocklehur.st, Mr. T. U., Introd., viii. Bronze, 277-8. Browning, E. Barrett, 33. Bndms, Karl (Life of Humboldt), 28-9, 77, 428-30. Buckley, Mr., 10. Buenos AjTes, 336. Bugs (see Rliynchota). Butterflies (see Lepidoptera). CA.iM.iSo, Senor, 175. Callo, 99, 124, 127, 302. Camellones, 8, 21, 286. Cameron, Mr. Peter, 355, 362. Campaiia, F. J. (interpreter), 271, 295-6, 310-12, 314, 317-18, 321, 325, 327, 334, 386, 389, -391, 435-6. Canar, Province of, 294. Candelaria, Hacienda of, 303-4, 308, 360, 398, 401. Cauzacoto, 214-15. Carabourou, Pyramid of, 218, 292. Carchi, Province of, 294. Carihuairazo, 23, 85-7, 90, 97, 131, 158, 252, 295, 310-18, 327, 343, 345, 347, 349, 352, 363, 372, 401, 415, 423, 426-7, 436. Carranrjui, Village of, 256-7, 265-6, 268, 275. Carrel, Jean-Antoine, Introd., xii, 6, 26, 34, 50-53, 59, 62, 67, 69, 71, 78- 80, 107, 109, 116, 132, 136, 143, 145, 147, 150-1, 155, 164, 177, 190, 194-5, 197-8, 205, 207, 209-11, 224- 5, 227, 235-0, 241, 244-5, 259, 261, 287-8, 297-8, 300, 304, 306-7, 311, 314, 318-19, 321, 323. 327, 3.34, 343- 4, 381, 392. 396, 435. INDEX. 447 Caii'ol, Louis, Iiitrod., xii., 6, 20, 42, 50, 59, 68, ri, rs, 79, Sl-2, 101, 122, 130, 132, 134, 136, 145, 150, 155, 159-60, 165, 209, 211-12, 225, 235, 236, 241, 244, 24S, 261, 2S7, 297-8, 306-7, 311-12, 314, 321, 327, 334, 381, 435. Valloii de, 43, 58,62, 331-3, 354, 364. Carrion, Seuor J., 173. Cairutlier.s, JIi'. William, 21, 352. Casella, Mr. Louis, 405, 418, 424. Catarama, A'illage of, S6. Cattle, 198, 202^204, 244-5, 313. Cayarabe (mountain), 112, 121, 133, 145, 154, 156, 169, 215-16, 217-37, 238- 40, 249, 251, 262, 332, 343, 345- 7, .349, 351, 354-5, 359, .362-5, 370, 372-3, 400, 420, 42-3, 425-7. Village of, 180, 218, 222-3, 227-8, 241, 245, 250, 255-6, 266, 398, 400. Cayandeli, Hacienda of, 387, 401, 415. Census, 1, 168, 294-5. Centipedes, 354, 362. Cevallos(arriero),160, 164, 218, 241,258, 265, 285-6, 304, 311, 313, 318, 321. Chambers, Mr. G., Introd., xiv, 2-4, 13, 33-4, 38, 56, 66, 72, 97, 196, 311, 395-6, 402, 405, 421, 436. Cliambo, River, 85, 97. Chauclian, River, 5, 336. Cliaupi, Hills of, 99, 170. Chicago, ox-cheek of, 61-2, 83, 207. Childers, Rt. Hon. H. C, Introd., xiv. Chili, Introd., x, xi, 2. Chilian Minister, 294. Chillapullu, 431. Chillo, 124, 127, 159, 184-5, 205, 215, 255. Chillogallo, Village of, 208. Chimbo, 14, 86, 336, 390-1. Bridge of, 14, 387, 389-90, 401, 415. River, 4, 5, 13, 20, 86, 105, 323, 327, 336. Village of S. Jose de, 15, 34, 412. Chimborazo, 2, 5, 12-14, 20-33, 40-80, 82-7, 90, 93, 110, 114, 121, 131, 156, 158, 172, 193, 198, 200-2, 213, 215, 219, 230, 295, 299, 310-13, 316-43, 345-9, 351-5, 357, 362-5, 367-70, 372, 381, 387,407-9,425-36. Chimborazo, the breach, 25-6, 64, 66-7, 77, 338. first Camp on, 40-42, 331, 399, 412, 414, 423, 425, 427. second Camp on, 47-59, 76-80, 86, 193, 202, 299, 333-4, 368, 399, 407, 412-14, 423, 425, 427. third Camp on, 59-60, 63, 66-7, 70, 73-5, 78-9, 193, 321, 333, 369, 372, 395, 399, 407, 413, 414, 423. fourth Camp on, 318-19, 334, 401, 423. tifth Camp on, 319, 321-2, 327-8, 3.32, 401, 415, 423. sixth Camp on, 333, 401, 427. .seventh Camp on, 311-12, 34. Arenals of, 20, 21, 24, 26, 30-1, 33, 40-3, 76-8, 86, 93, 319, 332-3. crevasses on, 24, 26, 33, 58, 67-8, 327. flora of, 333-4. from the Tacific, 2, 20. glaciers of, 23-5, 30, 58, 67-8, 75-8, 86-7, 319-20, 323, 327, 332, 335, 338. height of, Introd., xi, 32-3, 71-2, 330, 339-43, 399, 401. lava-streams of, 47, 57, 59, 64, 319. Jlap of, 17, 80, 323, 334. Marquis of, 82, 89, 91. Northern "Walls of, 320-1, 323, 327. Pacific Ocean seen from, 68, 324. North-west ridge of, 319, 321 - 3, 327, 332. Province of, 294. Southern Walls of, 25, 64-7, 75-9, 333, 337-8, 369, 372, 399. Summits of, 23-4, 57, 64, 68-70, 78, 320, 325-9, 337, 339-42, 399, 408, 413-15. South-west ridge, 25, 46, 5-3, 58-60, 64-7. 75, 77, 321. vallous of, 22, 40, 42-3, 46, 58, 62, 76, 331-3, 354, 364. Chimu, 277. Chinchona bark, 13, 243. Chiribogas of Riobamba, 82, S9, 91, 312. Chlorate of potash, 49-50, 381. Chota, Valley of, 214-15. 448 INDEX. Cliristian names, 103. Clmarpoiigo, Hacienda of, 223, 400. Chuquipoquio, Tanibo of, 29, 79-90, 120, 311-13, 332-4, 385-6, 399, 408, 413- 14, 423. Church, Mr. G. E., 90, 168, 175-6. Cloud, cumulus, 74-5, 145. Cock-fighting, 222-3. Col du Geant, Introd., x. Colegio, Hacienda of, 186, 204-5. Coleoptera, 10, 112, 116-17, 137-8, 169, 176, 200, 213, 222, 236-7, 246, 332, 354, 362, 365-6, 391. Colias aUkoIa, 200, 363-5. dimera, 357, 364-5. Colin, Mons., 382. Collanes, Valley of, 303-8, 362, 401, 423. Colombia, Introd. , xiii, 246, 258, 267. Colon, 407, 412, 414, 427. Condamine, M. de la, 12, 15-17, 33, 107, 110-11, 128-9, 154, 158, 164, 196, 212, 218, 235-6, 287-93, 305, 340-3, 402-3. Condor, 78, 200-5, 224. Coral snalce, 3. Corazon, 105, 107-12, 116, 134, 158, 170, 210, 213, 215, 230-1, 343, 345, 347, 351-3, 360, 362-3, 365, 399. Cordilleras, Parallel, 335-6. Cornices, tufted, 120, 133-4, 191, 232. Corredor Machai, 241-50, 353. Cotocachi (mountain), 99, 133, 169, 231, 256, 258-65, 334, 343, 345, 347, 349, 352, 355-6, 358-9, 364-5, 372-3, 400. Village of, 178, 259-60, 264-7, 295, 398, 400. Cotopaxi, 73, 96, 98-9, 110, 121-30, 135- 59, 162, 170, 210, 231, 252-5, 322-30, 332, 336-7, 34.3, 345, 347, 349, 353, 370, 372-3, -399, 408, 41-3, 415, 420, 422-4, 426-7, 433, 436. angles of slopes, 123, 147. crater of, 121-2, 125-7, 128, 130, 146-54, 210, 252, 322, 324, 330. dust ejected by, 125, 138, 140-2, 146-7, 153, 326-30. eruiitions of, 125-9, 138, 147, 153-5, 322-30. fish ejected by ? 252-4. Cotopaxi, flames from, 128, 152-3. glaciers on, 146, 349. height of, 154-5, 399. Couloir, 109. Cousobamba, Village of, 222. Cowper, W. (quotations from), 117, 246. Crania, 284. Crater of Altar, 305-7. Antisana, 197. Carihuairazo, 316. Chimborazo, 337. Cotocachi, 264. Cotopaxi, 121-2, 125-7, 128, 130, 146-54, 210, 252. Pichincha, 209-11. Sangai, 74. Crevasses on Antisana, 190-1, 194-5, 197-8, 349. Carihuairazo, 315. Cayambe, 231-3. Chimborazo, 24, 26, 33, 67-8, 327. Illiniza, 132-3. Sara-urcu, 248-9. Crickets, 116. Croce-Spinelli (aeronaut), 378-9, 382, 438, 441. Crosse & Blackwell, Messrs., 62. Crustacea, 117, 361, 363, 366. Cuenca, Town of, 174, 277, 288, 295. Currant-bushes, 87, 250, 333. Cutuchi, River, 97-9, 124, 127, 137, 302. Cuzco, 270, 274. Cyclopimn cyclopmn, 117, 251-5, 363. D.VRWix, Dr., Introd., x. Daule, River, 4. David (see Beltran). Day, the late Dr. F., 255, 363. Debris, Glacier de, 17, 58, 73, 76-8, 80, 320, 338. Vallon de, 43, 58, 76, 333. Declaration of F. J. Campaiia, 435-6. Deer, 115, 160, 225. Demerara, 112. Depot on Chimborazo, 43. Diptera, 112, 114, 116, 130, 176, 200, 250, 359-61, 363, 391, 430. Distant, Mr. W. L., 134, 363. Dixon, Mr. George, Introd., xiii. INDEX. 449 Dogs on Cayambe, 224-7. of Machaclii, 118-11). Pedro rle Penipe, 314-15, 318,321-2. Domingo (arriero), 302, 311-12, 318, 321. S. de los Colorados, 214-15. Donkey.s, 9, 106-7. Dormida, la, 238-41, 243, 250, 354-5, 359, 363, 398, 400, 423. Dragon-flies, 115, 355, 362. Dres.s, 148-9. Dru, Aiguille du, 299, 307. Druce, Mr. H., 357-8. Drunkenness, 266. Duprat, Senor J. G., 91, 94. Duran, Village of, 390. Dykes, 110, 132. Dysenter}', 50, 79. Eahrings, 167, 183. Earthquakes, 260, 267, 303. Earthworms, 111-12, 351, 362. Earwigs, 354-5, 362. Eaton, Rev. A. E., 363, 366. Ecuador, President of, Introd. , xiii, 172-5, 264, 294. bonds, 177, 386, 390. banks in, 181-3. Ecuadorian loan, Introd., xii. Eigher, 306. Ellis, Mr. AV., 196, 339, 395-6, 417. Ensillada, 21, 209-11. Entomolog}-, 113-17, 134, 137-8, 169, 187, 200-1, 213, 215, 222, 236-7, 239, 246, 297, 332, 354-66, .391. Equator, 124, 156, 162, 169, 186, 201, 228, 240. Eruptions of Cotopaxi, 125-9, 138, 147, 153-5, 322-30. Sangai, 73-5. Tunguragua, 96-7. Esmeraldas, 105, 126, 159. Province of, 16, 258, 294. River, 124, 228. Espiuosa, Senor Javier, 173. Senor Jarrin de, 222-4, 227, 229, 231, 236. Everest, Mount, Introd., viii, 378, 437 439. Ewbank, Mr. Thomas, 273, 281. Falcon.s, 224. Ferns, 62, 115, 187, 199, 250, 259, 333, 352. Fish, 117, 251-5, 363. Fleas, 98, 100, 303. Flies (see Diptera). Flores, Senor Antonio (Pres. of Ecuador), 175. Flower, Dr. W. H., 283. Flowering jilants, 21, 87, 111, 115, 144, 199-200, 213, 308, 333-4, 350-3. Food, Introd., xi, 45, 185. Forsyth, Sir T. D., 49, 84. Fossilized bones, 65. Foxes, 115. Freshfield, Mr.Douglas, Introd., xiii, 392. Frogs, 103, 116. tree-, 116, 334. Frost-bite, 71, 81-2, 91. Fuchsias, 115, 250, 353. Fungi, 199, 209, 352. Gaiters, 71, 81. Galti, Hacienda of, 386, 389, 401. Garcilasso de la Vega, 239-40, 276. Gasteren Thai, 307. Gay-Lussac, Mons., .380. Geneva, 398. Gepp, Mr. Antony, 352. Giacometti (maitre d'hotel), 170-1, 216. hotel, 166. Gilliss, Lieut. J. JI., 270, 273. Glacier de Boussingault, 349. de Debris, 58, 73. 77-8, SO, 320, 338, 349. de Humboldt, 349. de Moreno, 87, 349. de Reiss, 320, 349. de Spruce, 320, 349. de Stubel, 323, 327, 332, 349. — de Thielmann, 58, 62, 67, 349. de Tortorillas, 349. Espinosa, 231. Tschingel, 307. Glaciers, 348-50. on Altar, 305, 307, 349. Antisana, 190-1, 194-5, 197-8, 349. Carihuairazo, 315-16,349. Cayambe, 22S-9, 231-3, 349. o M >l.f^ ■0NIVEESIT1 450 INDEX. Glaciers, Chimborazo, 24-5, 58, 67-S, 75-8, 86-7, 319-20, 323, 327, 332, 319-50. Cotooaclii, 264, 349. Cotopaxi, 146, 349. Illiniza, 132-3, 297-8, 349. Sara->n-cu, 244, 247-9, 349. Sincholagua, 160-2, 349. Cllaislier, Jlr. J., Iiitrod., vii, 35, 424, 441. Gobieruo (taiiibo), 13-15, 38, 187, 399, 407, 412, 414. Godin, Mons., 288, 402. Godinan & Salvin, Messrs., 200, 357, 363-4. Godoy, Seuor J. (Cliilian Minister), 294. Gold, 92, 155, 181, 240, 266, 269, 277. Gordonstown (Jamaica), 406. Gorham, Rev. H. S., 116, 213, 222, 246, 354, 362. Gosset, Mr. P. C, 195. Gouter, Aiguille du, 229. , Graham, Mr. W. W., lutrod., viii. Graude, Rio, 105, 158, 160, 185. Grasses, 87, 160, 198-9, 242, 244, 246, 248, 264, 333, 352. Graves, 282-4. Greatest altitudes for Batracliia, 363. Beetles, 213, 332, 362, 365-6. Butterflies, 200, 357, 363-5. Centipedes, 354, 362. Cru.stacea, 361, 363, 366. Cumulus cloud, 145. Eartliworms, 112, 351, 362. Ferus, 62, 333, 352. Flies, 361, 363. Flowering plants. 111, 144, 199, 250, 333-4, 350-3. Fuchsias, 250, 353. Fungi, 209, 352. Grasses, 264, 352. Hymenoiitera, 356-7, 362. Lichens, 76, 333, 350, 352. Mos.ses, 264, 316, 333, 350-2. Moths, 358-9, 363. night passed at, 157. Phasmas, 355, 362. position determined on the spot by instruments, Introd., x. Reptiles, 363. Greatest altitudes for Rhynchota, 134, 361, 363. Scorpions, 107, 363. Spiders, 360, 363. Gregorio (of Machachi), 142, 165. Gregory, Mr. J. R., 328. Gringos, 92, 99, 100, 173, 221, 227. Guachala, Hacienda of, 217, 222-3, 366, 398, 400, 408, 421. Gualea, 214-15. Gu.allabaniba, Ravine of, 127, 218-21, 400, 409, 413, 422. Rio de, 185, 228. Village of, 221-2, 400. Guamani, 185. Guamote, Village of, 86, 386, 389, 401. Guaranda, 12-15, 18-39, 46-7, 51-2, 60, 62-3, 73, 79, 83, 105, 178, 295, 311, 319, 323, 325, 332, 336, 398, 399, 407, 412, 414, 427, 436. Guard, 60, 62-3. Guanaxuato, Mines of, 341. Guayaipiil, Introd., xiv, 1-4, 12-14, 16-18, 20, 22, 33-4, 36, 38, 56, 66, 71-2, 97, 125, 129, 173-5,178, 180-2, 203, 221, 230, 232, 244, 250, 263, 283, 293, 295, 311, 339, 354, 366, 385, 387, 390-1, 395-6, 402, 405, 407, 410-12, 414-15, 421, 425, 427, 436. Gna3'as, Province of, 294. River, 3-5, 354, 358, 366. Gunzberg, Baron Gabriel de, 203. Guyot, Dr. Arnold, 289, 396. H.\CIEND.\, 82. Hail, 29, 84, 112, 134, 143-4, 162, 194, 261. Hall, Colonel, 29, 76, 348, 433. Hamilton, Mr. Douglas-, Introd., xiii, 166, 172-3, ISO. Hassanrek, Mr. F., 176, 218. Headache, 49, 52, 61, 150, 368-70, 374. Hebrides, 249. Henderson, Dr., 49. Herschell, Sir John F. W., 424. Heuer, Mr. Edmund, Introd., xiii. Hiclcs, Mr. J. J., 395, 397, 425. Highest-point tables, 112, 352-3, 362-3. Himalayas, Introd., viii, x, xi. INDEX. 451 Hooker, .Sii- Josepli, 419-iO. Hotels, 11, 9S, 170-1, 268, 391. Huayna-Capac (Inca monavcli), 266, 277. Humboldt, Alex, von, Intvod., x, xi, 23, 25, 27, 33, 72, 76-7, 113-14, 123, 129, 189, 201, 205, 212, 236, 251- 5, 334, 340-2, 348, 351, 428-30, 432-3. Glacier tie, 349. Humming-bird.s, 214-15. Hutantaqui, Village of, 265-6. Hymeuoptera, 96, 116, 200, 355-7, 362, 391. iBAun.v, Town of, 257-8, 265, 267-8, 2S3, 288, 295, 366. Ibi Gamin (Kamet), Introd., x, 419. Ice-axes, 163-4, 322, 327. Ice-traffic, 22. Icicles, 75, 297-8. Illiniza, 99, 105, 107-8, 130-4, 162, 210, 231, 233, 235-6, 258, 287, 295, 297-9, 343, 347, 349, 356, 361-3, 370, 372-3, 399-401, 408-9, 413-15, 423, 426-7. Iltafjui, Hacienda of, 259-60, 400. Human, Village of, 265. Imbabura, Province of, 256-8, 265-7, 276-7, 281, 284, 294. (mountain), 228, 231, 252, 256, 258, 265, 347. Incas, 237, 257, 266, 270, 277. Inca's house, 302. Indians, 9, 39-40, 60-2, 83, 87, 98, 177-8, 205, 214, 227, 239-40, 264-7, 271, 274-6, 278-9, 282, 295, 311. Inscribed stones, 287, 290-92. Insects (see Entomology). Isco, River, 187-8. .J.vcoiiY, Mr. II., 117, 354, 362. Jamaica, 406, 412, 427. .lambeli, bridge of, 105, 297. James- •, Dr. W., 112, 168, 230. Jarrin, i-oii-fe, 231-4, 259. Jefo-politico, 22, 60, 119,222-3, 227, 245, 255, 268, 303. Jipipapa, Town of, 295. .Tones, Mr. (of Quito), 180. Jose, S. de Cliimbo, 15. Juan k Ulloa, 33, 128, 274-5, 288, 290, 340-2. Kamkt (Ibi Gamin), Introd., x. Karakorum range, 49. Kirby, Mr. AV. F., 362. Krakatoa, 154, 339. Lace made by Indians, 178. Ladak, 378. Land, value in Ecuador, 304-5. Latacunga, 97-8, 105, 124-7, 129, 178, 295, 302, 398, 399. ladies of, 98, 101. Lava, 43, 47, 57, 64, 65, 67, 78, 110, 111, 123, 126, 138, 140, 145, 146, 148, 153, 189, 194, 263, 319, 336-8. Lava-streams, 64-5, 187, 189, 194, 319, 327, 337. Leon, Province of, 294. Lepidoptcra, 10, 113-15, 117, 200-1, 239, 297, 357-9, 361, 363-5, 388, 430. Lice-eating, 10, 98, 101. Lichens, 76, 111, 144, 169, 189, 199, 213, 250, 264, 308, 316, 333-4, 350-2, 430. Lightning, 144, 147, 162-4, 170. Lima, 270, 294. Limpiopongo, Plain of, 124, 137. Litter, 87-8, 90. Livingstone's Last Journals, 418. Lizards, 103, 115, 176, 218. Llamas, 96, 297. Llanganati, mountaius of, 97, 106, 110, 342, 347. Lloa, Village of, 208, 215. Loads, 6, 47, 132. Loja, Town of, 295. Province of, 294. Loma, tambo, 11, 12, 15, 399. Lopez, Senor, 135. Lorenzo (of Machachi), 108-9, 165. Macuachi, 95, 97, 99-119, 124-5, 130, 134, 136, 138-9, 141-2, 155, 158, 160, 165, 218, 254-5, 257, 287, 296, 298, 300-2, 313, 328, 358, 361-3, 398, 399, 404, 408, 409, 413-15, 422, 427. basin of, 99, 101, 105, 114, 185, 207, 355. 452 INDEX. Macliangara, River, 207. Maclieta, 182, 304, 312. llagdaleiia, Village of, 208. Haize-lieads in stone, 274-5. Malchingi, Village, 284, 286. Maldonado, Don Pedro, 12, 15-17. map, 12, 15-17, 158, 240. Manabi, Province of, 173, 294. Maps of Ecuador, 12, 15-18, 339. Marcet, Dr. ^V., 49. Massee & Muriay, Messrs., 209, 352. Masson, Mons. G., Introd., viii, 439. Mathews, Mr. C. E., Introd., xii. JIaximum temperatures (see Tempera- tures). Medios, 181. Menten, Father J. B., 93, 168, 403. Mera, Senor J. L., 173. Mexico, Introd., viii, 341, 348, 354. Miguel, S. (village), 15. Millipedes, 354. Mindo, 214-15. Minimum temperatures (see Temjiera- tm-es). Minister, IJritish, Introd., xiii. 166, 311. Chilian, 294. for Foreign A Hairs, 91-2. Mitten, Mr. G., 352. Mocha, Village of, 30, S3, 87, 90-1, 312, 398, 401, 431. Mojanda, 169, 218, 228, 231, 255-6, 265, 284-5. Mona, la (Village of), 7, 10, 11, 15. Money, 181-2. Monk's Valley, 224, 229-30. Mont Blanc, Introd., ix, 33, 58, 263, 380, 419, 431, 438. Montenegro, Lieut.-Col., 22. Montufar, Seuor Carlos, 27, 114, 428-9. Moraines, 191, 194, 229, 249. "Moreno, Garcia (Pros, of Ecuador), 90, 173-4, 265, 267, 403. Assas.sination of, 174. Glacier de, 87, 349. Murplws, 10, 388. Mosses, 76, 111, 134, 145, 169, 230, 239, 250, 308, 316, 333-4, 350-2, 430. Moths (see Lepidoptera). Mountain - sickness, Introd., v-xi, 26, 43-4, 48-53, 59, 61, 67, 70, 84-5, 120-1, 157, 330-1, 366-84, 429, 431, 434, 437-42. iMuiscas, 284. Mulalo, Village of, 126-7, 129-30, 302. Mules, 6, 42, 46-7, 76, 79, 159-60, 208, 285-6, 309. Munajiamba, Village of, 10-12, 15, 38, 187, 399, 407, 412, 414. Musquitoes, 360, 391. Myriopoda, 354, 362. Naneg.\l, 214-15. Nanti, "\'ilhige of, 85, 386, 389, 401. Napo, River, 124, 193, 215. Naranjal, A^alley of, 307-8, 401, 423. Neuroptera, 115, 355, 362. Newcastle (Jamaica), 406. Nocturnal Minima (see Temperatures). Nono, 18, 214-15. Northern Walls of Chimljorazo, 320-1, 323, 327. Obekti, Paul, 93. Ocampo, Hacienda of, 400. Olalla, Hacienda of, 291. Oliver, Prof. D., 242, 352.- Olliff, Mr. A. S., 116-17, 213, 236, 332, 354, 362, 365. Oltmanns, Prof. J., 340. Opossums, 115. Orellana, 239-40. Oriente, Province of, 258, 294. Ornamentation of Pottery, 280. Oro, Province of, 294. Orthoptcra, 354, 362, 391. Orton, Prof. J., 117, 201, 205. Osten Sacken, Baron C. R., 359, 363. Otovalo, 178, 180, 218, 256, 258, 260, 265-6, 268, 284, 295. Outat, 46. Owen, Sir Richard, 65. Ox-cheek of Chicago, 61-2, 8.3, 207. Oxygen, Introd., viii, 19, 377-80, 382, 437-42. Oyambaro, Pyramid of, 291-2. P.usi.o, Lake S., 265. Pacific Ocean, 2, 12, 20, 68, 105, 124-5, 201, 239, 322, 324, 328. INDEX. 453 Pauifie Range of Ecuador, 5, 1'2-14, 21, 86, 106, 323, 335-6, 407. Pamir, 378. Panama, 1, 10, 17, 125, 293, 391, 426-7. baggage-smashers, 283. hats, 101, 421. I'auecillos, 99, 117, 134, 169, 208, 266. Papallacta, 193, 217, 239, 251. Paraffin-oil, 243. Paramos, 90, 99, 297, 312, 386. Pasodroa, 101, lu5-6, 158, 170, 185, 205, 231, 336, 355. Passports, Intro J., xiv. Pastassa, River, 85, 97, 193. Patate, River, 97. Pazmiiio, Senor, 22, 37, 39. Pedregal, Hacienda of, 105, 136, 155, 158-9, 164, 355, 362, 398, 399. Rio, 159. Penipe, Village of, 85, 303-4, 308-9, 360, 398, 401. Pedro de, 314-15, 321-2. Perring, Mr., 2, 51, 58, 60, 62, 70, 73, 79, 80, 98, 136, 184, 257, 368. Peru, Introd., .\i, 2, 239-40, 270-1, 274- 77, 289, "76. Peso, 181. Phasmas, 116, 335, 355, 362. Photography, 37, 189, 246, 326. Pichincha, 94, 106-7, 112, 156, 164, 166-7, 170, 201, 207-15, 230-1, 332, 334, 336, 342 - 3, 345, 347, 352, 354-6, 358-60, 362-6, 400, 423, 427-9. Province of, 258, 294. fo. Village of, 18.5, 217, 291. Pike's Peak, 299. Pilalo, 215. Pills, 294. Pimclodus ct/dojiiim, 251-5. Pifiautura, Hacienda of, 185, 187-8, 201, 2U4, .366. Pintac, Village of, 186-7, 204. Pita, Rio, 124, 136-7, 159, 164, 185-6. Pizarro, Gonzalo, 239-40, 250. Pizarros, 276. Plagemann, Dr. A., Introd., viii. Plantamour, Prof., 398. Piatt, of Oldham, 205. Playas, Hacienda of, 9, 11, 15. Pocock, Mr. R. I., 354, 360, 362-3. Police, Commissary of, 22, 37, 39. Ponchos, 102, 241. Population in Provinces of Ecuador, 294. in Towns of Ecuador, 295. Portillo Pass, Introd,, x. Porto-viejo, 295. Potash, chlorate of, 49-50, 381. Pottery, 266, 277-86. Preseott on Chimborazo, 20. Presidents of Ecuador, 172-5, 267, 292. Pressure, Atmospheric, Introd., v-xii, 33-6, 38, 44-5, 51-3, 57, 70, S4-5, 149-50, 330-1. 344-5, 367-84. Prices, 39, 83, 178-80. Priests, 22, 175, 259, 264, 268, 295. Provinces of Ecuador, 294. Provisions, 45-6. Puela, 215. Puengasi ridge, 105, 167, 184-5. Pulse, rate of, 301, 368-9, 374, 377-82, 438-40. Pumas, 115, 229, 243. Pumice, 94-5, 104, 212. Putnam, Dr., 254-5. Pyramids of Quito, 287-93. Pyreneau mastilfs, 119. Qr.viirz, 245, 249. yuebradas, 108, 168, 218-19, 259-60. Quicksand, 313. (luiniue, 22, ISO, 243. Quito, 5, 15-17, 24, 99, 107, 112, 124-5, 165-85, 187, 203, 205-9, 214, 216- 19,220-1, 236,239,251,257,265-7, 2S6, 28S, 290-1, 295, 309, 328, 342- 3, 348, 389, 391, 398, 399, 402-4, 408-10, 413, 415, 421-2, 427-8, 430. Bank of, 181-3. Basin of, 105, 167. Hotel at, 166, 170-1. lighting of, 206. Observatory at, 217, 403, 421-2. omnibus, 97. Pauecillo of, 169-70, 217, 362, 399, 410. population of, 107-8, 295. 454 INDEX. Quito Road, 2, 6, 7, 8, 20, 90, 97-9, 105, 173-4, 187, 29(j, 299-302, 311-12, 316, 334, 360, 386. water-carrier at, 168-9. Qiiitu, 239-40, 277. Quixos, 239-40. Racines, Antonio (of Machachi), 100, 117-18, 141, 165, 254, 287. Railway, the Ecuadorian, 135, 385, 387, 389-91. Trans-Andeau, 336. Raisin, Miss C, 94, 104. Range in altitude, 112-13, 350, 357-8, 364-6. Rarefaction of air, Introd., yi, viii, 44, 46-53, 66, 70, 121, 149-50, 370, 377, 380-3. Rates of speed, 27, 31-2, 66, 70-1, 75, 79, 149, 155, 162, 164, 191, 198, 234-5, 262-3, 298-301, 317, 325, 331, 344, 369-74. Reals, 181. Rebolledo, Seiior Rafael, 1S8-9, 204, 291. Recurring species, 112, 213, 361, 364-6. Reed-pipes, 116, 119. Reguault's Tables, 417. Reiss, Dr. "W., 186. Reiss, Glacier de, 320. Reiss & Stiibel, Doctors, Introd., xiii, 33, 73, 96, 110, 129, 131, 154, 158, 186, 196-7, 212, 230, 235, 270, 297, 305, 321, 341-3, 349, 398, 410. Remy, Mous. Jules, 210-11, 418. Rcndle, Mr. A. B., 352. Reptilia, 3-4, 103, 115, 176, 218, 363. Respiration, 30, 31, 49, 52, 150, 367-70, 374-5, 379-84, 431, 433. Revolutions in Ecuador, 173-5, ISO. Rhyncliota, 10, 112, 134, 176, 200, 361, 36.3, 391. Riobamba, 30, 82, 85-7, 91, 105-6, 166, 255, 268, 276, 293, 295, 302-3, 308-12, 328, 340-1, 346, 385 -7, 389-90, 398, 401-2, 422, 431-2, 436. Rios, Province of, 294. River Amazons, 25, 92, 193, 195, 201, 239, 290. Blanco, 313. River Clianibo, 85, 97. Chimbo, 4, 5, 13, 20, 86, 105,323,327. Daule, 4. Esmeraldas, 124, 228. Grande, 105, 158, 160, 185. Guallabamba, 185, 228. Guayas, 3-5, 354, 366. Isco, 187-8. Jorge, S., 10. Machangara, 207. Napo, 124, 193, 215. Pastassa, 85, 97, 193. Patate, 97. Pedregal, 159. Pita, 124, 136-7, 159, 164, 185-6. Yaguachi, 4-5. Roads, 89-90, 97-9, 187. the Royal, 8-12, 187. Rochester, Bisliop of, Introd., viii. Rocks, descriptions of, 65, 67-8, 164, 189, 194, 212, 230, 234, 242, 249, 263, 286-7, 297, 306, 315-16, 319. Rosa, farm of S., 93. Rosario, Hacienda de la, 122-4, 130-1, 134, 153, 399, 408, 413-14. Kuminahui, 99, 101, 105, 110, 116, 136, 145, 158, 170, 231, 336, 343, 347, 355. Rycaut, Sir Paul, 239. SALlSBuny, Marquis of, Introd., xiii. Salvias, 115. Sanancajas, Paramo of, 90, 312. Sand, A^olcanic, 43, 140. Sangai, 73-5, 96, 131, 153, 156, 235-6, 252, 304, 336-7, 383, 387. Sara-iu'cu, 236, 242-51, 307, 327, 343, 345-7, 349, 400, 423. Saussure, Mons. H. B. de, Introd., ix, x, 380-1. Savaneta, A'illage of, 9, 1], 15. Sclilagintweits (the Travellers), Introd., .X, xi, 419-20. Sclater, Dr. P. L., 214. Scorpions, 107, 176, 360, 363, 391. Scott, Mr. R. H., 396. Sliakespcare, quotation from, 260. Sharp, Dr. I)., 116, 354, 362. Sherry, Dry, 93. INDEX. 455 Shoes, 39-4n, 143. Sibanilie, Village of, 386, 390-1. SiuclioUigua, 101, 124, 145, 157-64, 170, 18.1, 231, 233, 343, 347, 349, 352. Sivel, Mons. (aeronaut), 378-9, 382, 438, 441. Slater, Mr. Daniel, 206. Smyth, Prof. Piazzi, 302. Snakes, 3-4. Snow, 29, 30, 58, 64-5, 68-70, 73, 109, 132-3, 142, 146, 160, 162, 190-2, 194-5, 213, 228, 248-9, 261-2, 298, 305, 308, 315, 321-2, 325-7, 342, .346-8. Snow-blindness, 59, 71, 192-3, 318. Snow-cornices, 120, 133-4, 191, 282, 298, 315. Snow-line, 86, 110, 327, 346-8. Snow-spectacles, 192, 206, 314. Snow-storms, 84, 225, 243, 261, 298. Sol, 181. Southern Wall.s of Chimborazo, 25, 64-7, 75-9, 333, 337-8, 369, 372. Spiders, 112, 115-16, 169, 243, 360, 363, 391. Springs, 160. Spruce, Mr. R., 12-13, 73, 349. Glacier de, 320, 349. Spurs, 102. Spy, the, 240-1, 243, 246. Sipiier, Mr. E. George, 270, 275. Stars in stone, 268-71. Steam-blasts, 74-5, 147, 150, 153-4, 330. Stebbing, Rev. T. R. R , 118, 363. Stevenson, Jlr. ^X. B., 18. St. Bernard, 398. St. John, Mr. Alfred, Report by, 267, 294, 390-1. St. Thomas, 426-7. Stone Age, 256, 268. Stone implements, 256, 258, 268-77. Strachau, Mr. R., 396-7. Stragglers, 113-14, 134. Stiibel, Glacier de, 323, 327, 332, 349. . Sucre, 181. Sulphur, 338. Sunda, Straits of, 339. Surinam, 112. Tambillo ridge, 101, 105, 166-7. Tambos, 10-11, 193. keeper at Jbachachi, 99, 100, 117-18, 141, 165, 254, 287. Tambo of S. Ana, 122, 124, 138. Balsabamba, 1 1 . Chuquipociuio, 29, 79-80, 120, 311- 13, 332-4, 385, 399. Gobierno, 13-15, 38, 187, 399, 407, 412, 414. Loma, 11, 12, I.';, .399. Machachi (see Machachi). llnnapamlja, 11. Playas, 11. Savaneta, 1 1 . Tortorillas, 21, 24, 31, 40, 83, 86, 332-4. Tapia, Plateau of, 341. Teall, Mr. J. J. H., 189. Temperatures, 15, 22, 41, 66, 70-1. 134, 142-3, 148, 160, 170, 186, 194, 196, 212, 221, 230, 232-3, 238, 244-6, 249-50, 25-3, 263, 297-8, 300-1, 313, 315, 319, 321, 32.3, 325-6, 346, 396-8, 421-4. body, 52, 150, 301, 326, 425-7. highest observed in the interior, 221 422. lowest observed, 149, 422. maxima, 84, 221, 300, 421. minima, 40, 41, 52, 59, 61, 84, 149, 194, 210, 237, 297, 300, 306-8, 311, 313, 319, 321, 421. Table of Nocturnal Minima, 423. on summits, 70, 110, 149, 196, 212, 233, 249, 263, 315, 325, 345-6. Teneriffe, 302. Tent, 59, 201-2, 327-8. Tetous, 299. Theakston, Mr. ,T., 6. Theodolite, 24, 110, 259. stand, 55-6. Thielmann. Freilierr von, Introd., xiii, 130, 138-9, 349. Glacier de, 58, 62, 67, 349. Thermometers, boiling-point, 33-4. Thunderstorms, 78, 84, 101, 116, 134, 136, 143, 162-4, 170, 186. Tibet, 378. 456 INDEX. Tissandier, M. Gaston (aeronaut), 379,441. Tiupullo ridge, 97, 99, 105, 122, 170, 399. Toixe, Seuor T. Gomez de la, 267-8, 283, 366. Tovtoiillas, Glaeier de, 349. Tambo of, 21, 24, 31, 40, 41, 43, 83, 86, 332-4, 354, 357, 362-4, 4-36. Vallon of, 43, 76. Towns in Ecuador, 295. Trans- Andean Railway, 336. Treasure.s, 23, 92, 155, 240, 305. Trotter, Col. H., 84. Truxillo, 277. Tschingel Glacier, 307. Tulcan, 258, 295. Tumbaoo, Plain of, 106, 167, 185, 215, 217-18, 35.5-6, 36.3. Tumuli, 266. Tunguragua, 24, 30, 85, 96-7, 120, 156, 215, 252, 336-7, 343, 318-9. Province of, 294. Tupac (Inca monarch), 277. Utunac, Village of, 307. Val Tottrnanche, Introd., xii, 308. Yalenciana, Mine of, 341. Valparaiso, 336. Vase-busts, 281. Veintemilla, Pres. of Ecuador, Introd., xiii, 172-5, 264, 294, 389-90. Pointe, 172, 326. Velasco, Don ,Iuan de, 251, 266. Ventanas, Village of, 86. Venezuela, 112. Verbenas, 115. Verbeek, Mr. R. D. M., 339. Verity, Mr. (interpreter), 180, 184, 188, 192, 205-6, 209. 218, 227, 229, 236, 241, 245-6, 258, 261, 265, 28.5, 294-5. Vertical range, 113. Villaviceneio, Dr. Manuel, 12, 193, 209, 236, 251. Volcanic dust, 43, 94-5, 103-4, 111, 125, 140-2, 146-8, 153, 230, 326-30, 336, 346. Volcanic eruptions, 73-6, 94-5, 96-7, 103-4, 122-9, 138, 147, 153-4, 251, 264, 322-30. Volcanoes, 74-5, 94-6, 121-30, 136-55. 164, 197, 210, 263-4, 266, 304-5, 31-3, 322-30, 336-9. Wagner, Dr., 9.3. Water, 14, 168. AVater-earrier at Quito, 168-9. Waterhouse, Mr., 10. We.asels, 115. Weather, 10-11, 25, 29, 32, 45, 63, 66, 78, 84, 112, 116, 130-1, 134-5, 136, 143, 155, 186-7, 194, 208, 216, 225, 244-6, 298, 306-8, 314. Wetterliorn, 315. Wliistles, Indian musical, 281. White, Mr. Adam, 10. White Valley, 229-30. Wiener, Mons. C, 270, 274. Wilson, Mr. J. S., 203. Wind, 66, 69, 75, 78, 123, 146, 148, 233, 261, 297-8, 300, 306. 308, 322, 325. Wine, virtues of, 50, 207. Wi.sse, M., Boiling-point obs. by, 419-20. Wolf, Dr., 127, 129, 130. Wood-lice, 363, 366. Yacu-larca, 313, 318. Yaguachi, River, 4, 5. Village, .390-1. Yambo, Village, 97. Yanasaehe lava, 138, 145. Yaua-urcu, 218. Yarkund, 49, 84. Yarouqui, Plain of, 218. Zamborondon, 5. Zinc, Sulpliate of, 59, 192, 318. Zoology (see Arachnida, Batracliia, Cole- optera, Crustacea, Dijitera, Earth- worms, Fish, Frogs, Hymenoptera, Lepidoptera, Reptilia, Ehynchota, Spiders, etc.) n ' ■'— ~'"J.""3^!;t?'»?l^ c acKiUacta^, ^^:' o'-\LlNEA- r •j'Si:: « ?^^, ^ '^J^^~r::t^ '^ <«> .^'^ *>- **>" t"^' iVTTr\ T^ti '^srvl I'll*'-''.) ;^ ..fe« -.:^ : >^'-*^^""'■■■■' S^—'^'-M'^r.- namarm = ?:*lSt^ ^ i.^-a" 3^ Uij/iiui ZhiimyFahra ' ^ 5--- S ir-,iy»«.-. ..^ _^ S;ui2av t'ot ^^Sfc~^5^ '*§.* ^ \ FAC-SLMILE OF T HE CENTRAL PORTION OF THE MAP OF THE PROVINCE OFOUITO, BY DON PEDRO MALDONADO, I730. 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