pos the ma IB snr det: his geoi and laid trac heai mar thor ahd bool ^^^^ mviue rwveiauon, the extended influence { of tire boXandthVmaiV"s : v!ce"vhich "it , filiP recep t8 p% th< V ir R h lon an r 'S ! renders are exegetical. The life of Paul is < > ^ followers of Christ, and the awaken- a commentary on his writings, and there ' OI a moi'ft pnriu-st. sviirif. nt' ii-i\-oc,'- : .,..!,. ., ' ,., . . i i : .,_ 'fQf-a oa nil not tlirow 'ANREVIEW. "Mul^siai;.!'^^^^^^^ me louowersoi Christ, and the awaken- a commentary on his writings, ai ingot a more earnest spirit of investi- i is scarcely a step of his pr. trrc: g f Vi n ^ S - rc ^ arc l s . t j? e j? istoir y and rec ords Apostolic Missionary that does n. of the Christian faith." ; jj^iit upon some passage in his E JNOETH AMERICAN REVIEW. MnrwsTnrwri HTTA i,- nui 'als 1 Edition> with more merous Illustrations, 2 v London : LONGMAN, BROWN, and CO., Paterno PW 32 GAY STREET, bw 4 s MEMOIRS AND LETTERS, LONDON : FEINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. NEW-STREET SQUAEB. P ' ft*s9tsSS*^C^isC*~- MEMOIRS AND METIE OF THE LATE COLONEL ARMINE S. H. MOUNTAIN, C.B. AIDE-DE-CAMP TO THE QUEEN AND ADJUTANT-GENERAL OF HER MAJESTY'S FORCES IN INDIA. EDITED BY MRS. ARMINE S. H. MOUNTAIN. II SECOND EDITION. LONDON : LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS. 1858, The. riiiht oftraiitlulion is reserved. ' TO THE BEITISH AEMT THIS MEMOIR OF A BROTHEE SOLDIER WHO AEDENTLY LOVED HIS PEOPESSION AND HIS COMPANIONS IN ARMS AS A MAEK OP ESTEEM, BY THE EDITOR, 512724 CONTENTS, CHAPTER I. Birth and Education. Joins his Regiment in Ireland. Studies at Brunswick - Page 1 CHAPTER II. Tour on the Continent - - 21 CHAPTER III. Joins the 52nd Regiment. Death of his Father. Returns to England with his Mother - - 40 CHAPTER IV. Joins the 76th in Jersey. Unattached Majority. Purchases into the 26th Cameronians - 59 CHAPTER V. Joins the 26th in Madras. Goes with them to Bengal - 76 CHAPTER VI. Visits Simla. Appointed Military Secretary to Sir Colin Hal- kett. Joins him in Bombay. Sir Colin's recall. Appointed Aide-de-camp to Lord William Bentinck. Goes with him to the Neilgherries - - 110 Vlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. Return to England. Death of his Mother. Marriage. Sails for India the second time. Birth of hi* Child, and Death of his Wife. Appointed Deputy- Adjutant- General to the China Force. Death of his Child - Page 140 CHAPTER VIII. Chinese War. Return to India. Sails for England with the 26th Regiment - 154 CHAPTER IX. Arrival in England. Quartered in Edinburgh. Second Mar- riage. Aide-de-camp to the Queen. Death of his Brother. Appointed Military Secretary to the Governor-General of India. Leaves the Cameronians - - 208 CHAPTER X. India. The Punjab War. Appointed Adjutant-General to Her Majesty's Forces. Simla. Illness and Death - 232 CONCLUSION ------ 304 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, &c. CHAPTEE I. ARMINE SIMCOE HENRY MOUNTAIN, the fifth son of Jacob Mountain, first Bishop of Quebec, was born in Quebec on the 4th of February, 1797, in a house in St. Louis Street, which had previously been oc- cupied by Prince Edward, afterwards Duke of Kent, the father of Queen Victoria. Bishop Mountain was descended from a French Protestant family, who took refuge in England upon the revocation of the Edict of Nantes (the name having been originally Montaigne, and of the same family as the celebrated Essayist), and became pos- sessed of a moderate landed property, the estate of Thwaite Hall, in Norfolk. He married Miss Eliza Mildred Wale Kentish, co-heiress of Little Bardfield Hall in the county of Essex, a property that had belonged to her family for nearly 600 years. She was a descendant of Sir Thomas Wale, a Knight of B .'2 YiEMOIUS, LETTERS, ETC. the Garter in the reign of Edward III. It is said that the right to wear the Crusader's Cross was won by an ancestor of the family of Wale (then written Vaux) under Eichard I. Dr. Mountain was appointed to the new diocese of Quebec in 1793, and presided over the Church in Canada for thirty-two years. The following passage, taken from a periodical published in Quebec shortly after his death, will show the estimation in which he was held in that city : " His relations and friends will always remember him with most reverential affection, and all who knew him, with respect. The poor will mourn him as a benefactor of no common generosity ; and ' the bless- ing of him that was ready to perish ' will mix itself, to embalm his memory, with the thankful recollections of many whom he has soothed in affliction, relieved in embarrassment, advised in perplexity, withheld from imprudence, reconciled in estrangements from their brethren, or led by the hand in the way of Truth. Those who have known him in the public business of the province, will acknowledge no less his ready exercise of the powers of a mind rarely gifted and richly stored, than his integrity, his droiture cVdme, his singleness of purpose, his firmness and consistency of conduct ; and those with whom he acted in concert will own, that there were times when others leaned upon him in difficulty, borrowed strength from his example, and counted upon him to preserve things in their proper course He was emi- BISHOP MOUNTAIN. 3 nently a scholar, a gentleman, a companion, a do- mestic guide and comforter ; and united, in a most remarkable manner, qualities which commanded respect and even awe, with a cheerful affability, and often a playfulness which threw a charm about his society, and made him as it were the centre of a system, to the whole of which he imparted light and warmth. Besides the three learned languages which he had acquired in the course of preparation for his profession, he was acquainted with as many foreign tongues In all things he possessed a delicate and cultivated taste, and excelled in early life in many accomplishments, which he discarded as trifles when he became a Bishop in the Church of Christ. Never was a character more perfectly genuine, more tho- roughly averse to all flourish or ostentation in re- ligion. He was friendly, both from feeling and prin- ciple, to all exterior gravity and decorum in sacred things ; and in his own public performance of the functions proper to the episcopal office, the com- manding dignity of his person, the impressive serious- ness of his manner, and the felicitous propriety of his utterance, gave the utmost effect and development to the beautiful services of the Church. In the pulpit, it is not perhaps too much to say that the grace, the force, the solemn fervour of his delivery, the power and happy regulation of his tones, the chaste expressiveness of his action, combined with the strength and clearness of his reasoning, the un- studied magnificence of his language, and that piety, B 2 4 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. that rooted faith in his Eedeemer which was, and showed itself to be, pregnant with the importance of its subject, and intent upon conveying the same feeling to others, made him altogether a preacher who has never in modern times been surpassed." Bishop Mountain left four sons and two daughters. The two elder sons took Holy Orders; the second became in 1836 Bishop of Montreal, and is now Bishop of Quebec. The third son, Eobert, entered the army, and served during the Peninsular War in the 75th Eegiment. He was with the forlorn hope at the siege of St. Sebastian; and once, when in charge of the defence of a bridge, he was severely wounded in the foot ; but though suffering great pain, the ball having entered the instep, he could not be persuaded to leave his post, and remained, with his wound bleeding, leaning on a sergeant, till the enemy had retired. After the peace of 1815 he returned to England; and in 1819 resigned his commission in the army, and entered into the ministry of the Church. The fourth son died in childhood. The fifth son, Armine, the subject of this memoir, was placed in 1805, together with his three elder brothers, with the Eev. T. Monro, rector of Little Easton, in Essex, a favourite pupil of the celebrated Dr. Parr, and a scholar of repute. There he remained for about three years, and made good advances in classical learning. When about four years old, the child of his nurse, to whom he was much attached, a much older boy, who was allowed to play about the house, used to tyrannise over him ; and one day in the courtyard forced him under the shafts of a cart, hurting him very much, and putting him in considerable danger. The butler, who saw this from a window, saved the child, and called down the Bishop ; but the only fear of the little sufferer was lest his oppressor should be punished, and he cried out, " Oh, papa, pray forgive him ! he was only in fun, and did not know it hurt me." Of his early religious dispositions, little has been recorded; and one of his brothers, writing in the present year, says : "On this subject I have nothing marked to say. In the personal history of individuals, as in the advance of the Gospel over the world, it may often be said that the kingdom of God cometh not with observation. My brother was one whose parents prayed for him, and sought to mould him, without any austerity or forcing process, in the nurture and admonition of the Lord ; and he was a very good and amiable boy, in whose young heart the seed took effect, and developed its fruit gradually more and more through life. I may mention, that my father took particular pains with his children before their confirmation ; and when I was about sixteen myself, he went through with us a course of very familiar con- versational lectures upon the Gospels, sometimes reverting to the subject as we walked about the fields, and making it as engaging to our boyish minds as he could by very B 3 6 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. simple illustrations. My father took great pains with us in every way : among other things, he cultivated in our minds that taste for the beauties of nature, which in my brother Armine was of so exquisite an order, and often made excursions with us to a variety of charming and romantic spots which are within easy reach of Quebec. His own perception of the charms of scenery, and the details of picturesque effect, was remarkably keen, and his relish for them of the liveliest kind." In 1810 Armine returned to Canada, where he remained in his father's house, studying under the direction of his brother George, till he received his commission as ensign in the 96th Eegiment in 1815. During this period, he won the love and esteem of his relations by his tender affection, his reverential attention to his father and mother, his cheerfulness, and the steadiness of his conduct ; whilst, with the general society at Quebec, his courteous manner, gentlemanlike bearing, and many agreeable qualities, made him a universal favourite. In the autumn of 1815 he left Canada, to join his regiment, the 96th ; and soon after his arrival in England, wrote the following letter to his father: "Sampford, Oct. 4, 1815. " I can hardly express, my dear father, how great was my delight on finding two letters for me when I called at the agent's the other day, one from you, and the other from Eliza ; they were the first that I had received from Quebec, and as it is the first time that the Atlantic has ENTERS THE ARMY. 7 separated us, I felt a mixed sensation of joy and sorrow that I cannot easily describe " Upon my first arrival in London, I of course waited on Sir Henry Torrens with Sir Gordon's letter, and paid all the visits which you desired, but found few people in town. On the 6th of September, I went down to Chalfont with Robert ; neither Jacob nor Frances recollected me. Jacob, whose kindness to me it would be impossible to exceed, looks as young and handsome as when I last saw him; he is esteemed one of the best and most active clergymen in this country, and has already acquired great and universal influence in his parish. At the end of a fortnight Robert left us to join the depot at Newport ; he does not like his situation there, and is anxious to get to the regiment ; but he is so useful where he is, that I do not think they will be willing to part with him. He is little altered in person, except in looking older ; and he is the same kind, benevolent, noble-hearted fellow that he ever was. In writing to my father, I think that I am justified in praising my brothers. That I may resemble my father and my three brothers is iny earnest prayer, and the object of my ambition. " The Duke of Kent having sent me word that he wished to see me when I was next in town, I wrote from Chalfont to have a day appointed, and came up to town last Monday week, and found a letter fixing the following Friday for my seeing H. R. H. I was thus obliged to spend a week in London by myself at a consi- derable expense. When I saw the Duke of Kent, he asked me very rapidly a number of questions about you, my brothers, and myself ; he began at St. Louis' Gate, and asked the present occupier of almost every house in the town ; he then desired me to remember him to you most B 4 8 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. particularly, and to tell you that I had seen him ; and I took my leave. His manners were so gracious and easy as to divest me of the embarrassment which I felt at first " I was much affected by the death of my much esteemed master, Mr. Monro, of Easton. I had antici- pated the greatest pleasure in seeing him again, and retracing all my boyish haunts. I was very glad to have your opinion respecting my remaining in the army during peace. I felt, I will confess, when I first heard of the peace, a little vexed that I had come too late, and rather unsettled ; but General de Rottenburg said the same thing to me that you did, in nearly the same words, which determined me to stick to the profession now. I have often since thought that I should do well to go to High Wycombe, the military college for officers of the army, where I understand there is no greater expense than with regiments, and a thorough knowledge of the profession may be acquired "That God may bless my father and mother is the constant prayer of your affectionate son, A. S. H. M." In November he joined his regiment in Ireland,, where he made many friends, amongst whom may be mentioned the family of the Bishop of Meath (O'Beirne), through whose kindness he became ac- quainted with Maria Edgeworth. In a letter to Mrs. O'Beirne, written about this time, Miss Edgeworth speaks in high praise of him, and says, " If you were to cut Armine Mountain into 100 pieces, every one of them would be a gentleman." This was truly his HIS CHARACTER. character through life : in every situation, in the privacy of domestic life or in more public position, in gay scenes or in the moment of danger, he was essentially a gentleman. His courteous manner and attention to every one was based not only upon re- fined feeling and the desire to give pleasure, but upon the higher Christian motive of rendering " honour to whom honour is due ;" and no one ever more com- pletely followed this precept of St. Paul, or more consistently acted on the command of our Saviour to " do unto all men as ye would they should do unto you." Yet was he fearless in opposing vice ; and his favourite aphorism, written in all his earliest journal- books, was this line of Kacine's " Je crains Dieu, cher Abner, et n'ai point d'autre crainte." In the summer of 1817 he went abroad, in order to study the continental languages, and passed a year and a half at Brunswick, living in the house of Pro- fessor Kocky, and studying German, French, Italian, military drawing, and mathematics at the College. In 1818 the Bishop applied for a year's extension of his son's leave, that he might continue on the Continent ; and Colonel McCarthy, in recommending him for leave of absence, says : "From my knowledge of this officer's zeal for the service, and his uniform propriety of conduct, I conceive him highly worthy of the indulgence requested for him by his father ; and therefore, feeling convinced that his time will be employed to the best advantage, I feel happy in being 10 MEMOIKS, LETTERS, ETC. able to state that the duties of the regiment do not require my making any objection to the leave in question being granted." In February, 1819, Professor Kocky writes as follows to Sir Harry Calvert, Adjutant- General: , " C'est ayec le plus grand regret que je vous annonce le depart de M. Mountain. Je me fais un devoir de vous rendre compte de la conduite exemplaire qu'il a tenue pendant son sejour a Brunswick, ainsi que de 1'applica- tion soutenue qu'il a constamment mise a ses etudes. . . . 11 serait enfin impossible de mieux utiliser son temps, que ne 1'a fait M. Mountain." To the Bishop of Quebec M. Kocky says: " L'epoque a laquelle monsieur votre fils doit me quitter etant arrivee, je dois de mon devoir de vous ex- primer la satisfaction que sa presence m'a donnee sous tous les rapports. Comme vous connaissez la douceur et 1'aimabilite que le caracterisent, le zele et 1'activite qu'il met a ses etudes, vous concevrez aisement combien j'ai de regret a me separer d'un jeune homme dont 1'exemple influei^ait avantageusement la conduite et 1'application de mes autres pensionnaires "Voila la maniere dont M. votre fils a utilise son temps a Brunswick, et le resultat de ses efforts lui fait le plus grand honneur." During his residence in Brunswick he won the respect and good will of the leading persons in the society; and the disgraceful behaviour of a young Englishman, whose dislike he had excited from avoid- STUDIES AT BRUNSWICK. 11 ing his companionship, drew forth such praise of Armine's conduct from several officers of distinction in the Brunswick army, as was deeply gratifying to himself and his relations. Sir Gordon Drummond, writing to the Bishop of Quebec on this occasion, says: " There can be but one opinion on the subject, which is, that your son has conducted himself throughout this unpleasant affair in the most correct manner as an officer and a gentleman The high commendation he has received from so many persons of rank and dis- tinction is most flattering, and the prompt and handsome manner in which the officers of the Brunswick regiment testified their opinion is highly creditable to them, and honourable to your son ; and I can only add, that your- self and Mrs. Mountain must ever feel proud to be blessed with such a son." 12 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. CHAPTER II. IN 1819 Armine Mountain returned to England to meet his father and mother, who had come from Canada partly on account of the Bishop's health, which had suffered much from his constant labours and great exertions in his diocese, and partly for the sake of personally endeavouring to obtain some ad- vantages for the Church in Canada. After a few months passed amongst relatives and friends, Armine returned to the Continent in com- pany with the son of Mr. Anger stein, of Wee ting. They spent some time in Germany, France, and Swit- zerland. In 1821 he went again to Germany, and spent a winter at Augsbourg, where Queen Hortense, the mother of the present Emperor of the French, held her court. In a letter to his brother, dated Jan. 1821, he writes thus : " On a bien le temps de s'appliquer a Augsbourg ; c'est une belle ville, mais depeuplee, et par consequent un peu triste ; cependant, je suis fort content de mon sejour ici. Le soir nous allons quelquefois au spectacle, et de temps en temps chez la Reine Hortense, a laquelle nous avons ete presentes par Monsieur de Saxenhofen, qui nous a montre bien des amities. Sa suite est composee de deux dames AUGSBURG. 13 d'honneur, du Gouverneur, du jeune Prince, et de 1'aumo- nier, et 1'on trouve chez elle le bon ton de la cour sans etiquette ennuyeuse. C'est une dame remplie d'esprit que la Reine, et j'aime mieux encore aller chez elle quand il n'y a point d'etrangers, que les jeudis, ou elle re9oit les personnes distinguees de la ville." It was in the preceding year that he wrote the following to his mother: " Lausanne, Christmas Day. " Ever Dear Mother, " As it is not this day given to me to embrace you, and to express to you by word of mouth the tender affection which fills my breast, I must have recourse to my pen.- Long practice has, alas! accustomed me to live far from my family ; and although I daily think of you, the hope of returning to you softens the pain of separa- tion. But it is on festivals such as this, on which the whole family was wont to come together, that I feel all the loneliness of my lot, and love to occupy myself in re- tracing the scenes of the days of old. It is upon the anniversary of the great day upon which the Eternal Love blessed a world, that I consider myself called upon to cherish more goodwill towards all my fellow-beings ; that I feel myself invited to love my friends and relatives more dearly, more disinterestedly ; that I think it my duty, in pouring out my gratitude to the Father of all for His infinite mercies to me, to thank also with all my heart my earthly parents for the tender care which they have taken of my youth. " May it please an all-powerful God, that you, father, mother, brothers, sisters, cousins, may spend happily this 14 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. day's festival ; that the coming year may bring you each the accomplishment of your wishes ; and that we may all one day be united upon English soil I" During his residence on the Continent, Armine wrote long journal letters to his own family, giving accurate and minute descriptions of all he saw and did ; but so many accounts have since that time been published of tours in Switzerland and Italy, that only a few extracts from his letters are here given, to show how, in distant countries and varied scenes, his heart clung to his parents and relations, and how the " besoin de se communiquer," which was so marked a trait in his character, was undiminished, even when he was sharing in the gaieties of Paris, Vienna, or Borne. " 1819. " I arrived at Frankfort on the 19th of July, where my friend Angerstein joined me the next day. Preparations for our journey occupied four or five days, at the expira- tion of which we resolved to try our newly acquired carriage in an excursion to Hesse Homburg. Angerstein knew Sir Henry Campbell, whom we supposed to be there, and we hoped by his means to be introduced to the Princess. " Upon our arrival there we found that Sir PI. Camp- bell was gone, and that the Prince and his attendants had ridden out. The servant showed us into a room, as we supposed to write down our name ; when the Princess Elizabeth, to our surprise, came forward, and after a short conversation, in which we introduced ourselves and PRINCESS ELIZABETH. 15 apologised for the intrusion, H. E. H. herself showed us round the chateau, talking with the most unaffected good humour of her husband and new relations, and asking with genuine politeness after our respective families. At the end of an hour, she desired her servant to show us the grounds, and we took our leave." To his youngest Sister. " Orleans, Dec. 1819. " None but those whom the waves of an ocean separate from all that they hold most dear, can conceive the delight that your letter, my dear little girl, and those of my father and mother, have given to your distant brother. The knowledge of your safety, the hope that all goes on well with you, and the conviction that I still retain a place in your memories, softens every vexation and heightens every pleasure of my varied existence." " Sens. This ancient capital of the Sennones, still surrounded by Roman fortifications, is situated at the con- fluence of the Yonne and the Yanne, the water of which latter is conducted in small canals through its streets. The dilapidated battlements, grey with time, and the name of Julius Caesar, who built a small fort near the town, render interesting this obscure place, once the seat of an archbishopric. In the choir of the Cathedral stands the mausoleum of the Dauphin, father of Louis XVI. One of the priests preserved this beautiful specimen of Coston's art from the fury of the multitude during the revolution, by taking it to pieces and hiding it in his house. A singular record of human folly and supersti- tion, la Prose de 1'Ane, is still preserved in the museum. This was a procession in which, in commemoration of our 16 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. Saviour's entry into Jerusalem, an ass figured as the principal personage, was crowned with flowers and con- ducted to the altar to the sound of music, composed by a bishop of Sens, to imitate the braying of this animal. " Having traversed four leagues of forest, the road through which is paved with square blocks of a beautiful whitish stone, we arrived at Fontainebleau. The ancient palace of the French kings is a royal and imposing mass of buildings, but it does not bear scrutiny. Built by dif- ferent princes, each of whom followed the architecture of his day, there is not one of the courts which has two cor- responding sides. Amongst many handsome rooms, those which interested me most were the apartments occupied by the Pope during his captivity, and Napoleon's bed- chamber : in this last is the table into which the great emperor stuck his penknife in impotent fury as he signed the abdication. There are two gardens attached to the palace; one, in the old style, with fountains, terraces, avenues, and clipped lime trees ; the other, divided from the first by a fine piece of water, is tastefully laid out like an English plantation. In this last, our guide, an old soldier who had served under Laroche-Jaquelein in the Vendean war, and received a sabre wound which has left a deep incision directly across his face, pointed out to us the spring that was discovered by the spaniel Bleau, an accident to which the town and palace owe their name and origin. " Orleans. We have taken the second, or, I believe, according to English ideas, the third story of a house on the right bank of the river ; and, as I write these lines, I see the boats gliding down the rapid and noble Loire, and the spire of Oliver rising from among the trees on the opposite shore. Our bonne (for they are no longer ORLEANS. 17 servants in France) provides the little that we require. It is the first time in either of our lives that we have been housekeepers. Our mornings are chiefly occupied with masters ; of an evening we read, go occasionally to the theatre, and on Saturday to the Prefect's, who receives on that day, and generally gives a little dance. Thus have hurried past four entire months, during which wo have made but two excursions beyond a walk out of the gates of Orleans. One evening that we drove towards the forest, we had the good fortune to see nine wild boars together ; we left our cabriolet and gave chase; hoping to get a nearer view of them, which, as we were afterwards told, was a dangerous service. " On the 1st March, we mounted our German waggon and drove out of Orleans. A man who, after living four months in a place can leave it without any sort of regret, must have lived there under very peculiar circumstances, or be of singularly cold temperament. I was sorry to part with several of my Orleans' acquaintance, and most particularly with my old master, M. Blanvillain. For four months I had spent two hours with him every morning, and generally three or four evenings in the week ; and I have to thank him not only for instruction in French and Italian, but for the opportunities which his interesting conversation gave me of improving my infor- mntion upon general subjects. I have heard it said, and T believe with some truth, that there is no more agree- able man than a Frenchman who adds solid information nd experience of the world to his natural gaiety. Blan- villain is such a man ; and, though old and infirm, and the victim of a modesty with which the inhabitants of this clime are not often reproached, he is lively and playful in conversation, yet abundant in knowledge. C 18 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. Amongst the Swiss guard, who form the garrison of Orleans, we left some pleasant acquaintances. The colonel of one of the battalions brought his wife to patronise a little evening party which we gave before coming away, and by his unaffected good humour ani- mated us all. " Bordeaux. The Port of Bordeaux, as it is called, which is in the form of a horse-shoe, the town lying along one shore, the varied bank opposite, and the river, the beautiful Garonne, covered with vessels of all the nations in Europe, present a coup-d'ceil which is grand and unique. We spent six weeks in this great capital of La Guienne ; but as we were living at an hotel, and only waiting till my companion, who had been taken ill, got better, I did nothing but take a few lessons in Italian, and make a few excursions into the country. One very interesting excursion was to the Landes. These are vast tracts of sandy heath, lying between Bordeaux and Bayonne, and inhabited by a peculiar race of people ; they have the appearance of savages, but the patriarchal usages are said to exist among them, and they are not only harmless, but hospitable and benevolent. We could only penetrate as far into the country as our horses could go and return in one day, and yet had the good fortune to see several shepherds tending their flocks. I will endeavour to describe one young man, who did not, however, essentially differ from the rest. He somewhat resembled the Indian Simon, whom my father will recollect, being a little below the ordinary stature, but well made. He was perched upon stilts about five feet above the ground, and carried in his hand a long pole, which he occasionally planted against his back, and thus rested, [watched his flock, and pursued his knitting. THE LANDES. 19 His legs were well armed with black sheepskins, but his bare feet rested upon the steps of the stilts, and from beneath a close woollen cap hung his long black hair. The rest of his person was covered with a large surtout of white sheepskin, with a bag at the back for provisions. It is really striking to find, within a morning's ride of so refined and populous a city as Bordeaux, a race of beings in such a savage state of existence. I afterwards saw some of them walk into town on their stilts, upon which they go at a great pace. The fellow whom I mentioned before, kept our horses in a smart trot, as he strode over the heath with his < seven-leagued boots.' When Napo- leon passed through this country, the prefect of the department sent him a guard of honour, consisting of a couple of hundred of these fellows, who ran on their stilts beside the carriage. " We left Bordeaux on the evening of the 30th April. Having cleared the town and suburb, I felt like, a bird escaped from a splendid prison. Looking ' abroad into the varied field of Nature,' now clad in her richest garb, and breathing an atmosphere ' full of life and vivifying soul,' I experienced that elation, that joyous sensation peculiar, I believe, to this season of the year, and directly the reverse of that melancholy but delightful feeling which an autumn evening produces. " Upon ascending the hill above Malange, the postillion suddenly cried out, 'Now you may see the Pyrenees ! ' We left the carriage and ran up to the highest point of the hill, which commands a magnificent and extensive view of the whole surrounding country. Before us, and stretching many leagues to the right and left, lay the beautiful valley of the Garonne, and far beyond, mingling with the heavens, the snow-clad Pyrenees, whose broken 20 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. summits, reflecting the last rajs of the setting sun, were of a delicate rose colour. The events of the late war, the reflection that Robert had seen these mountains under circumstances so different, rushed upon my mind, and I remained chained to the spot, until the postillion called to us that night was coming on, and that we had still some distance to go." " Vcvay, Oct. 1820. " My dear George, " I have been much reproached, and by none more than by my own conscience, for having written to you so seldom if you did not write to me, it was be- cause you had constant and important occupation, and it was my duty to write to you. I felt it, and I feel it. But do not think that, in ceasing to write, I ceased to havo pleasure in hearing of you, to sympathise sincerely in each joy and sorrow that befel you. Believe me, that my recollection of your indulgence and affectionate kindness, of the many happy hours which we have spent side by side, is much too lively to be lightly effaced. If I have seen a good deal of the world for my time of life, it has taught me how inestimable is the affection of my family; it has made me feel that i no ties are like the ties of blood.' " At last, on the 29th June, we started for Bonneville, a small town in his Sardinian majesty's dominions, where we slept ; having passed through much pretty country. The next day we continued along the plain, passed up the beautiful valley of Maylan, and having visited the Grotto de la Baume, a cavern which extends 190 toises into the rock, slept at St. Martin, within six leagues of the tremendous glaciers of Mont Blanc. On the 1st July, we 1 , mounted our mules, visited the beautiful cascade of Chedo at the end of the valley, and ascending the passage of GLACIERS. 21 the Forcliaz, dined at Savoy, a village in the midst of a small plain, shut in by the wildest mountains, the Aiguilles Noires, and the huge Mont-de-fer ; from hence, ascending through the savage pass called Les Montees, where the Arvc roared at an immense depth beneath us, and the chalets, perched upon little platforms of grass on the rocks above us, afford a precarious residence to the mountaineer, we came upon the vale of Chamounix. Here again I was disappointed ; the glaciers seen in the distance appeared diminutive, but upon approaching them, these vast pyramids of ice jutting out into the valley, excited my astonishment and surpassed my ex- pectation. It was late, and two guides, who had joined us, opposed our passing the Glaciers des Boissons : our guide offered to take us ; and after about an hour's ascent through the wood, we arrived at a sort of platform in the glacier, where it descends from the mountains, and from whence, tossed into pyramids and masses of transparent ice, it projects into the valley. A troop of women and children, emerging from the wood, cut steps for us with their axes, and with the assistance of the staffs, with which we had been previously armed, we crossed the glacier in about ten minutes. It suddenly began to rain violently, and having vainly sought shelter under the huge blocks of granite which encumber this side of the glacier, we regained the road, jumping and fording the torrents, which already descended in all directions from the mountains. The rain fell as I have never seen it fall ; the thunder, bursting like ten thousand fireworks, con tinned in one tremendous roll, reverberated from rock to rock completely round the valley ; the lightning redden- ing the road before us, dazzled our eyes, and a thunderbolt falling, as our guide protested, into the forest, within c 3 22 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. a hundred yards of us, so startled one of the mules which we drove before us, that he set off at full speed ; at length, thoroughly drenched, but delighted with the magnificence of the scene, we arrived at the Prieure of Chamounix, the principal village of the valley. The next morning proved rainy, but in the afternoon we ascended to the Croix de la Flessiere, and on our return enjoyed a noble view of the Mont Blanc, the Dome du Goute, and the chain of the Aiguilles : it is impossible to conceive anything to equal the dazzling whiteness, the unsullied purity of this enormous mass. The following morning was fortunately fine, and leaving our inn before 4 o'clock, we began to ascend. Having passed the llavine du Caillet, where our guide desired us not to speak lest the sound of our voices should occasion an avalanche (I believe a very unnecessary precaution), we gained, after three hours' march, the stone hut of the Montauvert, where the shepherd leads each summer his solitary life, tending the cows and goats entrusted to him. Descending into the valley at the approach of winter, the Berger du Montauvert (by which name he is known) is supported by his countrymen, living, as he told us, with each peasant as many days as he has had cows of his under his charge. It is to this hut that all travellers ascend, in order to get a good view of the Mer de Glace ; we were determined to proceed to the spot known to the Savoyards by the name of Courtil or Jardin. Bearing in mind the frozen basin of the St. Lawrence, I was disappointed by the comparative small- ness of the Mer de Glace ; but the Aiguilles, which border it, the points of rock peeping from amongst eternal snow, give a grandeur to the scene that is perhaps unequalled. MEE DE GLACE. 23 "Our shoes being armed with sharp nails, provided by the berger, and our hands with long spiked staffs, and our guides laden with provisions and a rope (in case of accidents, which, however, seldom or never occur), we crossed the Mer de Glace in its greatest length, and arrived, after a couple of hours' march, at the foot of the Glacier du Talefre, having found our poles of essential service in jumping the crevices ; from hence we were to cross the Rocher du Couvercle, but my shoes not afford- ing sufficient resistance to the sharp stones, I proposed going up the glacier, and leading the way, came in a few minutes to an enormous chasm, which obliged me to take a circuit. Angerstein now got first, and, determined not to be outdone, led up places which called for the utmost exertion of our hands and feet. Our guides assured us that they never had heard of any persons having gone up the glacier more, probably, because there is a better path up its side than on account of its difficulty. In another hour we arrived at the Jardin : this is a point of land situated in the midst of a waste of snow and ice, and shut in on all sides by rocks, whose bleak peaks contrast with the universal whiteness, where the traveller might sup- pose himself dropt from the clouds into some uninhabited and desolate planet ; and so called because, being the only spot in this enceinte where the sun can rest in the middle of the day, it alone is bare of snow and covered with brownish grass. In a hole in the earth we found a bottle where the travellers, who come here, leave their names. We were only preceded this year by a Dutchman, who had written his name there the day before : this was the only sign of living thing that we had seen for hours. We dined at the Jardin on cold provisions, and falling asleep, awoke in a couple of hours in a state of such com- c 4 24 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. plete exhaustion that we could scarcely crawl ; the heat of the sun, reflected by the ice, probably was the cause of this ; the mountain air soon revived us, and returning to the Montauvert, where we found the berger provided with milk, and a host of children with strawberries, we descended the mountain to the spacious blue ice vault at the foot of the Glacier du Bois, where the river Arenon rises, and reached the Prieure soon after sunset, after a march of fifteen hours. " The next morning I started, my companion not feel- ing inclined to move, with a party of French people, for the Col de Balm, intending to return by the Tete Noire. These are two passages which lead from the Vale of Chamounix to the Valais ; the former is preferred in fine weather only, on account of the view which it commands of the Mont Blanc. Our party consisted of Monsieur G- , a tall lean Frenchman of the old school, with a long queue, with a bandage tied round his head under his cap, in consequence of a fall he had had the day before, and mounted on a raw-boned mule, he migln have personated Don Quixote to perfection ; madame his epouse, ronde comme une boule ; Mademoiselle Zi'lie, an exceedingly pretty, interesting girl ; and an English- man, one of those who serve as a model for the French caricaturists his whole stock of French consisted in oui. oui, and pong-du-tout. The night before, at supper. Monsieur G , who is a lively, pleasant, well-bred man, asked him if he would sit down and join us, < pong- du-tout.' Mademoiselle Zelie, with one of her sweetest smiles, asked if they should have the pleasure of his company the rest of the way to Geneva ; ' pong-du-tout/ the ruffian ! And last and least the fair Zelie's humble squire and plant gatherer, a mountaineer. Proceeding THE TETE NOIKK. 25 up the valley, along the border of the loisi-i-.n.s Arvr, we arrived, after a rapid ascent of two hour.- ;md ;i h;ilf, at the cross on the top of the Col (between (>()()() mid. 7000 feet above the level of the Mediterranean >. which from its height and proximity is certainly hi,nc ;md the glacier. After descending a short time. w<- e;une to a chalet, where we ate our cold dinner ; from hence I had the honour of giving the fair Zelie my :irm lo\\ u ihe mountain, upon which Don Quixote congratulated her upon finding des cavaliers Frangais partout, \\ dubious compliment, I thought, although well menut. 1'onir-dn.- tout took care of mamma, but was so inexpert in. scram- bling, that he was obliged to resign this office t !' ihe Tete Noire, probably so called from its forests of .MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. trujj.ir.l in spi/nd a few days under the gentler heaven on tlii- ?)<}< i In- Alps. After a little hesitation we deter- minol i. proceed to Bellinzona, the capital of Ticino, and ;M (' I ingly betimes the next morning. We i h<- i own, having performed in eleven hours' inaivh. ilir lialr at Giornico not reckoned, eighteen Swiss mile.-. at M UK H! -rate calculation, forty English miles: but our tricin! A iiLixTstein covered the same ground in con- SHl.-nihk less time. Having been lazy in the morning, w<- h-t't him tM follow us in a char ; lie set off on foot, IH>\\'<-\ ri\ H-voral hours after us, and arrived at Bellinzona in rli<- niirht. having carried, fearing that the pace at whirl i In- Avon might fag old Michel, for the last ten or iirrcm mile.-, ihoold man's knapsack in addition to his own. 'rii- r.,n sequence was, that we were deprived for two T ihivc ,l;iys of his company, he being obliged, on no-Mi M M uf hi- Mistered feet, to follow us on a char or on n itiuh- Having crossed the Tessin by a handsome Rtpne lri !-< <>!' ten arches, AVC continued under the right valley a mi. I rirh and delightful scenery, in which tho vast > I o 1 1 r Cenere \\ a > always a principal feature. We stopped at Cavnia-rM IM .'at some grapes, and having passed near th- 1 M -a i n it'n I. village of Tenero, the bridge of Vergasca. \vliirli \viih a single arch connects the banks of a ravine. o r_>o t'.-ci above the torrent, which rages in the depth Itrnraih. \\e prrceived Locarno before us. Scarcely iirrivc.l in ihis neat little town, which is situated on the I .;.- . ..M iiiririmv, we embarked upon the Lake. The Swiss territory '-\icml.s three leagues beyond Locarno ; but we \\crr aniMiiList Italians, under Italian heaven, and in fact, in I ta 1 v. the La nd of Promise none of us much desired to s|M-alx ! Alv imagination was occupied, now in re- Iracin- ]>a>t so-nes, now in picturing in fairy colours the LOVE OF NATURE. 33 southern regions, which I soon hoped to explore, now in vain wishes to share the delight I promised myself, with far distant friends." The feeling here expressed formed a very marked feature in his character. No one ever had more strongly the "besom de se communiquer ; " and his intense and reverent love of nature, as the work of the Almighty Creator, joined to the wish of sharing his thoughts with a friend, made him the most delightful, and, in later years, the most improving companion. It was impossible to be with him in grand or lovely scenery without sharing in the intense feeling of ad- miration, the quiet awe, with which he would gaze in silence for some time, and then give expression to the deep and holy thoughts which filled his breast. The writer was particularly struck by this, many years after the date of these letters, when crossing with him the desert between Cairo and Suez. They had slept at the half-way station, and as he dressed more quickly than his companion, he went out alone, and after some time returned for her. As they wandered on with nothing but the apparently boundless sand around and the clear blue heaven above, he said, " It is delightful to feel ourselves away from all the world. This desert is like the sea ; it seems as if unstained by man, and there is nothing to come between us and the Creator of all. The coldest heart must rise to Him in love and gratitude." 34 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. " Sept. 27, 1822. " My friend Grey, who has been almost seven years abroad, during three of which he travelled in the East, maintains that the recollection of his travels is melancholy in the extreme, and consequently hateful to him, because it superinduces comparison between the happiness of the past and the dulness of the present time. I cannot say the same of my more humble peregrinations. I never take a walk that fifty trifles do not recall something that I have seen in Canada, in England, France, &c., to my mind ; and now that the present is full of vexation, and the future overclouded, I hang with greater fondness on these recollections, seeking in the past that enjoyment which I cannot find elsewhere. So much so, that I have but ill kept my promise of making speed. I never was happier than when scrambling over rocks with my kit on my back ; how free, how independent did I feel ! " The summer of 1822 he spent in Borne, visiting daily the various places of interest, and perfecting his knowledge of the Italian language ; but his health suffered from the climate ; and on reaching Florence, in the autumn, a severe attack of illness kept him in his room for five weeks. He thus describes, in a letter to his sister, the first walk he was allowed to take : - " A day or two afterwards I walked out ; and I cannot tell you, nor indeed account for, what I felt, since the time of my seclusion was not, after all, very long. I was agitated by the strange indescribable sensation, which filled me some years back, on entering every new place, ITALY. 35 and which I perfectly recollect experiencing in supreme degree, on first walking into Montreal ; but which, by time and travelling, had completely worn off. Every most ordinary object was a source of enjoyment to me, and I wondered at my former supposed indifference. The beauty of the landscape, in all that distinctness of per- spective peculiar to Southern climates, chained me to the spot ; the endless expanse of unflecked azure above, the sun's resplendent Italian light, shed upon palaces un- stained by smoke or fog, the gardens still green, and full of flowers, the beautiful bridges over the Arno, and the neighbouring groves of the Cascine, just tinged with the first brown of autumn, attracted by turns my de- lighted gaze ; but when the setting sun shed a rose- coloured mantle on the distant Apennines, which gra- dually changed to the deepest blue; when the water, which had seemed a transparent veil, extended over volumes of flame, reflecting faintly and still more faintly the surrounding objects, at length assumed the still dead hue of night, I could no longer restrain my emotion. How indescribably grand is the spectacle of departing day ! how lovely, my sister, how wonderful, how infinitely varied in all its parts, and yet how admirably blended! how majestic and beautiful as a whole is the face of nature ; and how happy might be man, even in this tran- sitory life, amid the thought-surpassing works of his Maker, if the fury of his passions, the intrigues of his petty interests, and the fictitious existence which luxury has created for him, did not obscure his sight, and en- tangle his every step ! " At his father's desire, but to his own great regret, D 2 36 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. he now left the sunny plains of Italy, and, crossing the Simplon, visited Switzerland, from whence he continued to send to his parents and sisters long journal letters describing the scenes through which he passed, and the way in which he employed his time. But the same tour has since been so often detailed by other pens, that only one more extract will be made from these letters. " Surprised by old Michel's iron appearance, we de- termined that I should proceed to Neufchatel, while iny friend remained at Lodi to receive the account of the parties we had sent out in search. Crossing the hills to the village of La Sague, I followed from thence, alone and on foot, a path which led me over hill and dale, through woods, and by deserted chalets, to a point where a spectacle so magnificent, so extraordinary, so unique, that all description would be vain, struck my astonished view. The newly risen sun shone over my head, and illumined an immense ocean of white vapour, that covered the lake of Neufchatel and the vast tract of country be- neath me, and extended itself to the foot of the Alps, the whole chain of which, from the mountains of Unter- walden to those of Savoy and Piedmont, forming a line of fifty leagues in length, I distinctly discovered. The Engelhorn was there, the Wetterhorn and Schreckhorn, the two Eighers and the Virgin, in all the unsullied chastity of eternal snow ; while Mont Blanc, with his tremendous chain, rose in unrivalled majesty, receiving a light red tint from the few clouds which floated upon the blue firmament. Yielding to the impulse of the mo- ment, I sank on my knees upon the rock and thanked RETURN TO ENGLAND. 37 my Maker that I was permitted to behold a scene, splendid beyond all thought, and which perhaps it is not the lot of one traveller among hundreds to enjoy. . . "From SchafFhausen we proceeded through Ulm to Augsburg, where we spent nearly four months, which, thanks to the Queen Hortense and other kind friends, I reckon among the happiest of my life." Early in the summer of 1823 he returned to Eng- land, and writes thus to his father : " I am glad to write to you once more from my brother's house, and you will be glad to hear of him and his from one who had not seen them since you have. My eldest brother does not look a day older, and enjoys more than usual good health ; he is decidedly the preacher the nearest approaching to yourself that I have ever heard. Both he and Robert are very much respected and beloved; the latter looks well, though thin, and seems more happy in his new situation. The first time I went to church here after our long separation I was obliged to recollect my c baffi/ and look fierce to keep down my emotion, as I heard the voices of my two excellent brothers in the desk and pulpit. These excellent men make me almost wish that my cloth were black instead of red The Duke of York was the best string! I am much obliged to you for the trouble you have had on my ac- count ; and if Mr. Canning, having done nothing for me, be the more induced to set you on the English bench, I shall be much obliged by his neglect. I called on him, and he sent me word he was sorry he could not see me, but begged I would leave my address. I did so, but have heard nothing. Sir Robert received me very kindly, and D 3 38 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. offered, before I opened my mouth, to propose me to the Duke of York for the full pay of the 52nd, which he has done with success ; telling me at the time that they are one of the finest regiments in the service, and hoping that their destination (Nova Scotia) would be agreeable to me. When you spoke of the possibility of my getting a com- pany, you were not aware that one cannot be promoted from half-pay. I think myself lucky in these times to get into a crack corps without paying the difference as lieutenant." The following extracts from letters to the Bishop of Quebec show that the years he had spent on the continent had not been passed in idleness. The first is from the wife of Sir Gr. Drummond, the second from a friend who was intimate with all the literary people of the day. " It will give you pleasure to hear that we have had a visit from your son Armine, and that we are quite de- lighted with him ; without any flattery, he is the most accomplished, elegant, and handsome young man possible, and every parent must be proud to possess such a son. . . I am told that he speaks German, French, and Italian, all equally well. Sir Gordon is quite grieved to think that Mr. Armine Mountain should go to a place like Halifax, where his merits cannot be appreciated." " Armine has been amongst us, and proved his legi- timate claim to the name of Mountain ; he is, indeed, one of its highly accomplished sons, and daily did I wish for the power of drawing forth the fund of information with which he seems to have stored his mind during his residence abroad. You would admire the manner in OPINION OF FRIENDS. 39 which he relates a thousand entertaining anecdotes ; it is free from all the fastidiousness which young men so often betray towards the old and ignorant, or the amplification so common in the traveller's tale. In short, he is de- lightful, and disposed to be as good as he is agreeable ; most thankful may we therefore be, that he has obtained such important advantages without material harm. He looks in good health, and may be called handsome, now that he has shaved away those odious moustaches. He takes scarcely any wine, and eats of the most simple food. Such, at least, were his habits here, and I like to tell them, knowing them to be such as you approve." 40 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. CHAPTER III. AFTEK his appointment to the 52nd, Armine Moun- tain spent a few months amongst his friends in England, and then embarked for Halifax. The fol- lowing extracts from letters to his father will show his careful management of money trusted to him, and his scrupulous desire not to be a burden on his parents.* " Although I have scarcely time to write a few hasty lines, I will not put off doing so, as I think it may give you some pleasure to know that when I have paid every sixpence I owe in the world, including the enormous expense of an entire new equipment for a regiment on foreign service, I shall have full 600/., which I shall dispose of for the present as Jacob shall think best. I, of course, consider the money as yours, and if you should, whenever you return to England, and have satisfactorily settled all more important concerns, find it convenient and expedient to add to the 600/., and purchase me a company, I shall be very thankful for such present, which I would never consent, much less propose you should make me, if I did not suppose that your thus enabling me to give up my allowance for ever, would be desirable for you as well as for me. If I can save anything in the course of the * The money spoken of was a legacy left to him by a relation. EXCHANGE TO 52ND REGIMENT. 41 next year, I shall be most glad to do so, but as the 52nd is what is called in the army a crack corps, in which everything is on a more expensive footing, it is, I fear, little likely that I shall be able to spend less than when I was in the 96th." " Halifax, 1823. "I must mention to you now the step I took before leaving England. Sir Herbert Taylor, upon hearing that you were likely to go home, kindly sent me word, that if I wished to exchange into a regiment in England he would have it done for me. Both my brothers urged me to use the opportunity thus offered for applying for permission to purchase, but I was unwilling to take so important a step without your sanction ; but as they both continued to press me, Jacob repeatedly assuring me that it would be no inconvenience to him to advance the money, I at last went to Sir Herbert, and said that I should be very, unwilling to leave the 52nd except upon promotion, but that I feared such application on my part would be premature. He said that as I was an old lieutenant, it would not be so, desired me to send in an application, promised to have my name put upon the purchase list before I sailed, and gave me of his own motion a letter of introduction to my commanding officer, Sir John Tylden The purchase money is 1100Z. Notwithstanding the expenses of my fit out and my passage have greatly exceeded my calculation, I have been enabled, with the help of presents and my allowance, to leave 700/., instead of 600/., with Jacob, and he will advance the remaining 400/. at any time. As I have been guided by my brothers, I hope you will be satisfied with this arrangement. In the meantime I must live on 42 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. my pay, which, having no debts, I shall, I think, be able to do. . . . Every military man I have spoken to agrees in thinking that everything depends upon getting this important step, and although I have certainly nothing to say for myself on the score of service, I feel that I am rather old for my rank, and that some are surprised that I should return to this country after eight years a subal- tern ! I trust that I am better able to separate the ideas of promotion and happiness than I was as a boy ; but I am so convinced that my future rising in my profession depends in great measure upon getting this step, that I would rather give the money for a half-pay company, and trust to Sir Herbert Taylor's kindness to restore me at the expiration of some time to full pay, than wait to purchase into a regiment, which would of course be more desirable. I am much obliged to you for kindly thinking of sending me the interest of my aunt's legacy, but I never calculated upon it, and most decidedly, though respectfully and gratefully, beg to decline it I could not after my appointment walk the streets of London without being congratulated by acquaintance on my appointment to the 52nd. The fact is, the light infantry regiments, but particularly the 43rd, 52nd, and 85th, being considered the crack corps of the army, the appointments to them are kept open at the Horse Guards for active young men of respectable connexions ; they are on this account somewhat more expensive than other corps, but this disadvantage is counterbalanced by the advantages of having good society, the certainty of being first employed on service, and the probability of avoiding the East and West Indies. Sir John Colborne, who is our proper Lieut. -Colonel, has got the 52nd into the highest order I most bitterly regret not being in 5 2ND REGIMENT. 43 Halifax, principally because I had hoped the regiment would be together, and we should have frequent field days, for I want drilling after my long desuetude of opening pans ; now we are scattered about, and shall have nothing to do and learn nothing." " St. John's, New Brunswick, Oct. 1823. " My dear Mother, " I left Halifax on the 29th September with the postman, and enjoyed much my journey through the province of Nova Scotia. After the confinement of an odious, nauseating, beastly, detestable ship, filth and salt provisions, I could appreciate the luxury of moving more than ten yards in a straight line, of cleanliness and good living I do not like the appearance of this place nearly so well as that of Halifax, and regret much that the regiment is so much broken up. We have only twelve officers here, and most of those youngsters. I hope that the regiment will not barbarise in this country ; at present it is certainly a pleasure to see the men such clean, smart, well-dressed fellows, and our mess is by much the handsomest, best arranged, and most gentle- manlike I have seen. Indeed everything, whether it re- gard duty or comfort, is carried on in much better style than in the majority of infantry regiments. The officers' barracks are not yet finished ; and we are all dispersed about in lodgings. One furnished lodging, which I am in treaty for, and the only one which I have heard of, is a long mile from the barracks. Now as I, like all new comers in the 52nd, of whatever rank, have to go through the same drill as a private recruit, beginning with my facings and goose steppings, and have consequently to 44 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. attend drill three times a day, at 7 and 10 A. M. and 3 P. M., it is rather fagging work to be so far from the men. I at first thought of buying a 10/. horse to ride backwards and forwards, but as, having been twice returned absent without leave, I am cut out of two months' pay for the present, I cannot conveniently man- age this ; and it is all the better, as exercise will keep me from growing fat. "Although I much regret having remained in un- certainty so long in England, and having so little time before me before winter sets in, I hope to be tolerably perfect in light-bob drill by the close of the year ; and you may therefore tell Charlotte, with my love, that, if she does not hold up her head and move nimbly, I shall put her through her facings regularly three times a day when I come. Give my love to George, and tell him that amidst my sorrow there enters a little anger at his want of care. His corporal understanding is so necessary for the conveyance of his mental to the assist- ance and comfort of others, that he should be careful of himself. I am told that if I had been quartered in Fredericton, which you for some reason suppose I am, the people there would, in quality of his brother, have carried me on their hands." His brother George, Archdeacon of Quebec, who had previously been some time at Fredericton as clergyman of the place, had been thrown out of a carriage, and severely injured. "Sept. 27, 1823. " My dearest Father "I have this instant received Charlotte's letter with your ending, and have but a moment to vindicate 52ND REGIMENT. 45 the 52nd from an impression given by my carelessness of expression. * Men of the world ' happened to be the term used by the person who repeated to me what Sir Howard had said; it meant in this case nothing more than gentlemen accustomed to good society, and incapable of abusing the intimacy to which he admits them. Of ' men of the world,' such as you mean, and such as I too despise and detest, I really don't know one amongst us The 52nd regiment was for a long time the hobby-horse of one of the finest soldiers and best men that ever breathed. He gave his attention too to the mess, and he was often heard to boast that ' his officers drank better wine, AND LESS OF IT,' than those of any other regiment of the line. We do nothing more than keep up the system he established ; our mess is certainly, I think, for the gentlemanlike style in which all is carried on, but by no means for 6 extraordinarily good cookery,' remarkable. The officers now composing the head-quarters mess are, with the only exception of one, who is the son of a baronet, and myself, sons of old general officers, and I do not recollect that I ever heard them talk of eating and drinking We dine at six ; coffee is brought at eight or soon after, and the mess breaks up, whether friends are there or not ; often sooner and never later, unless persons of such rank happen to be present that the mess waits for them to give the signal. " So much for the 52nd mess. " Your very affectionate son, "A. S. H. M." Before he obtained his lieutenancy, the prospect of his rising in his profession seemed so uncertain that the bishop had offered to use his interest to get his 46 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. son into the Civil Service ; but the lieutenancy having been procured put an end to this idea, and Armine thus writes to his father from St. John's. "In your letter of October you mention having written both to the Duke of York and Mr. Canning. I should, perhaps, as you suppose, have readily embraced an opportunity of establishing myself as a civilian, par- ticularly at that time, when the sight of my brothers, happy in the midst of their wives and children, was present before me, and increased those yearnings of the heart and cravings after domestic comfort which are innate in most men, and certainly predominate in the Mountains ; but I now rejoice that I am not a statesman or diplomatist, and am well content that what is, is. The character of the true soldier, the preux chevalier of the olden time, offers all that can flatter the imagination ; and although my rank may not correspond to my stand- ing in the army and the prospects with which I entered it, I have some reason to hope that I shall obtain a company ere long, and I would not give the recollections of the past for much money. And if all fail, I have at least learnt to amuse myself by occupation, and say with Boileau, " ' Je ne trouve point de fatigue si rude ; Que 1'ennuyeux loisir d'un mortel sans etude ; Qui, jamais ne sortant de sa stupidite, Soutiens, dans les langueurs de son oisivete, D'une lache indolence esclave volontaire.' Le penible fardeau de n'avoir rien a faire.' " How many such beings have I seen, and do daily seel" PRINCE EDWARD'S ISLAND. 47 After having been with his regiment a short time, he was selected, though still only a lieutenant, to take command of a company which was to be detached and sent to Prince Edward's Island. This, though honour- able to him, as showing the confidence felt in him by his commanding officer, was not agreeable to a young man fond of society, and who had so long been accus- tomed to the amusements of foreign countries. He gained great credit with the official authorities for the manner in which he accomplished the journey and commanded his detachment. The following extracts of a letter to his mother show how cheerfully he yielded to his banishment, which he expected would last for the whole winter. " Charlotte Town, Aug. 1824. " My dearest dear Mother, "Here I be En Siberie ! " Very much so ! Observe, I beseech you, the beauty, the delicacy, the admirable simplicity of that thought ! I call this island the Siberia of these our North American colonies the comparison is perfect and I put the verb in the subjunctive, not at all for the sake of the rhyme, but because I suppose myself to make this ex- clamation upon awaking suddenly from a trance, still unwilling to believe the sad reality Seriously, here I am, safe and sound, but here I am, alas ! This place is worse than I expected. The town is small, and there are few clean-looking houses. There are not more than three or four people who even aspire to the acquaint- 48 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. ance of the officer commanding the detachment, and he is better without than with the acquaintance of these few. I am told so ; and, from what I have seen, the report must be correct. In short, a man has nothing for it, but to become either a sot, a student, or a fisherman. Now it happens, unfortunately, that I cannot sit and soak in whisky and bad port like an old sponge, therefore this resource is, I fear, out of the question ; my inclinations might lead me to study, but unluckily, again, I have had one or two hints in my life that much sedentary employment won't do for me. I must therefore absolutely turn fisher- man, though I could never fancy the pleasure of sitting in a boat by the hour together, like a statue, with an apology for a tandem whip in your hand, with a hook at the end instead of a thong. Mais, apres tout, I may as well grin as cry, since crying won't help me, and betwixt reading, writing, and walking, and a little drill- ing occasionally, the time will pass There is no library here ; and, to sum up all, here I am pinned till May next I could not resist drawing the picture in its real colours, because it is so bad, and the difference between this and the same period in former years is so striking that it rather amuses me than otherwise. Don't be uneasy on my account, dearest mother, I promise you not to cut my throat. It is, perhaps, no misfortune to be thrown for a time entirely on my own resources, and if I keep up what little I have acquired, and gain a wrinkle or two, the time will not be a blank in my life." A change unexpectedly occurred in the disposition of the troops, and before the winter set in, Armine was recalled with his company to head-quarters at CHRISTMAS DAY. 49 Fredericton, where Sir Howard Douglas, then Gover- nor of New Brunswick, showed him great kindness and attention. The society at Government House was congenial to the young soldier, and his gentle- man-like manners and varied acquirements made him a general favourite ; but wherever he might be, his heart and thoughts always turned to his mother and his home. On Christmas Day he writes to his mother : " When shall I again be permitted to pass a Christmas with you and my dear father ? My thoughts are often and daily with you but on Sundays they seem to hover round my home more than at other times and still more on this day, so endeared by the charm of early association I have just come from church, and have taken the sacrament at the altar, where my ex- cellent brother George officiated. It would have been a great comfort to have received it at his hand, or at that of my revered father ! but, dear mother, we must not expect too much, and I have many blessings and comforts to be thankful for." After Christmas, being very anxious to see his father and mother, he obtained leave of absence to visit Quebec, and crossed the Portage on snow-shoes. The cold was extreme, and the fatigue of walking on snow-shoes, to one unaccustomed to the exercise, was very great. One day, overcome by fatigue, he laid down on the floor of a hut, of which the walls, made of rough logs, let in the piercing air upon him, and E 50 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. slept for some hours, thus laying the foundation of rheumatic pains, from which he afterwards suffered severely ; and on reaching Quebec, he was long con- fined with inflammation in the ankle, called " mal de raquette," caused by the strain of the snow-shoe upon the muscles of the ankle and foot. It was at this time that he made acquaintance with the late Earl and Countess of Dalhousie, who ever after were kind and steady friends to him, and in some degree influenced his professional career, as will be shown further on. Mrs. Mountain, writing to a friend at this time, says: - "Armine came across that horrid Portage, and the season being particularly unfavourable, he has suffered materially one leg is so affected by the cold, that he is obliged to sit with it up all day ; his general health is good, and the cheerfulness and patience with which he bears the confinement and privation much gratify us. Parties were made for him by all his old and new friends. Lord and Lady Dalhousie are very kind, and Sir F. Burton disposed to take much notice of him He is a fine young man, and with exterior improvements has not lost the better qualities of his mind. He is modest and affectionate, and I was nearly saying is all we could wish him to be." He returned to Fredericton in the summer, again crossing the Portage, but this time with a companion, and in fine weather, and remained with the 52nd all this year. RETALIATION. 51 His courteous manners and love of foreign lan- guages and poetry led some of the young officers to quiz one of whose extreme rectitude and purity of conduct they were perhaps a little jealous ; in return for their satire he wrote the following lines, and giving them in a letter to a servant, they were handed to the president of the mess, and by him read aloud after dinner. RETALIATION. " IMITATED FROM GOLDSMITH. M * They never meet but there's a skirmish of wit between them.' " [A vignette of a table with decanters and glasses, and persons sitting sleeping around.] " Now a-days when to pic-nics our beaux are invited, Each man takes his bottle, the feast is united If old Blossom provides for our feeding, I think, If each guest bring himself, he will bring the best drink. For Hewett's mull'd port, that's abundantly spiced, And St. John choice claret, that's cool, but not iced, Our Ronald madeira, that's twice crossed the line, Johnny Bentham, old hock from the banks of the Rhine. And Lummy champagne that has turned rather flat, (But leave it alone, t'will get better of that !) But curse all foreign wines, and each foreign lingo, Our Wog, I am certain, is capital stingo With curly-haired Harry it is not small beer, Then as best bottled porter, he now shall appear. E 2 52 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. But, Longworth, pour gently to lovers of soaking That froth in the beaker is plaguy provoking. Yet drink manfully on, sirs, and never despair, There's good liquor at botttom du moins, je 1'espere: Now last, tho' not least, that poor shatterbrained sub, Magnanimous Mountain is fresh sillibub. " With such excellent liquors to wash down our food 9 Who would not be merry ? Ho ! Longworth bring wood Let us draw round the fire we've had a long drive, The cold air exhausts one our lads ar'nt alive So while o'er the rest I see drowsiness creeping, I'll ponder, and tell what I think of the sleeping. " Here sleeps honest Hewett, who gloried in tandem. A bold whip, whose motto was { Nil desperandum.' His pencil was skilful each scene to portray, Unused to disguise, he would impulse obey. His feelings were quick, and they bore him along, But he ne'er would persist, if he felt himself wrong : And tho' he endeavour'd to make us believe That he thought 'twas but folly for others to grieve, None prompter than he to serve friends at a pinch, Or slower than he from a duty to flinch. " Here Frederick sits, fast asleep in his chair, With whom, say the girls, there were few to compare ; The lads liked him too, for he'd join in a lark, And be cautious withal, not to shoot o'er the mark. His spirits were buoyant, his manner was droll, To whate'er was his hobby, he'd give his whole souL RETALIATION. 53 He'd travelled and knew both the world and its ways, Would follow his fancy, and let the folks gaze. The mishaps of this life he profess' d not to feel, Yet was sometimes brought up by an acces de bile. " Here . . . sleeps, who made pun after pun, And harped on old jokes, and mistook it for fun ; But yet our friend .... to give him his due, Sometimes too, would say a good thing, it is true : Of modern events and the news of the day, As .... few people have so much to say ; He was friendly and cheerful, and never bore grudge, So when he was witty, we only cried 'Fudge ! ' And if in the spleen we'd sent Bob to the devil, Soon felt, that to want him, would be a worse evil. " Here Bentham is dozing a good piece of stuff, Ingenious, manly, with talents enough. He relished a joke, and would tell a good story, But soon lost his patience with prosers that bore ye. Amongst amateurs he was greatly in vogue, He'd act well, or sing well, or tip ye the brogue. Yes, John was a jewel but oh ! botheration ! One thing Johnny wanted 't was this application ; Thus, since more than he was, he felt he might be, John oft was opprest with the demon, ennui. " Here sleeps Colonel Lummy, the Prince of Vagaries, Who long made a figure amid the Canaries He wanted not feeling, had taste and good sense, Read Greek, and could construe each case and each tense. E 3 54 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. Knew Shakspeare by heart, could recite and could rhyme, And talked a vast deal of the value of time But our Lummy, alas ! spent much time in dreaming, Oft changed his pursuits, and was constantly scheming. " Here Bacchus reclines, with his feet on the fender, (That seat in the corner he ne'er would surrender,) Here he sleeps, little man, half buried in gills, Forgetful alike of this world and its ills. If aught hit his fancy he'd laugh till he cried, He'd ' blame ' us all round, if his temper was tried, But Bacchus was ever a kind-hearted lad, And welcome to all, whether merry or sad. " Here sleeps Harry New-come, a comical cove, As e'er in this world buckled sword on, by Jove ! He'd tell you long stories of feats he had done, Of horses he'd ridden, and hearts he had won. But was, we must own it, a queer pleasant creature, ' And slander itself must allow him good nature.' " In the spring of 1825, lie was hastily summoned to Quebec to see his father, whose strength was failing under repeated attacks of illness. He started imme- diately, but arrived too late to receive his father's blessing. The bishop died some days before his son's arrival. Armine found his mother and sister living in a house, not far from Quebec, to which they had re- moved for the benefit of the bishop's health ; and here he remained with them, devoting himself to the task DEATH OF HIS FATHER. 55 of soothing this dear mother and sister, to whom he was attached with all the warmth and tenderness of his ardent disposition. Of her four sons, the youngest was the only one who had the happiness of watching over his mother in the first days of her widowhood, for two of his brothers were living in England ; and the archdeacon had gone there in the hope of in- ducing the government to appoint the Hon. Mr. Stuart as suffragan bishop, so that his father, who was quite unable to continue the very arduous duties of his diocese, might return to England* Bishop Mountain, however, sank more rapidly than was ex- pected, and when the royal yacht arrived, which was to have taken him to his native land, his pure and saintly spirit had passed to its rest in Christ. On Armine devolved the duty of arranging all his mother's affairs, and in October, he obtained leave of absence to take her to England. The commander of the royal yacht, Sir Harry Leeke, who had received instructions to convey the bishop and his family to England, concluding that these orders would equally apply to the widow, received Mrs* Mountain and her son and daughter on board the " Herald," and throughout the voyage showed her the greatest respect and kindness, endeavouring by every attention to mark the reverence felt for her husband's memory, and sympathy for her loss. Soon after reaching England Armine, in writing to an old friend to tell of his mother's arrival, adds E 4 56 MEMOIRS,, LETTERS, ETC. " That you will have felt for us, my dear and kind friend, in our recent affliction, I do not doubt ; few, I believe, of his early friends cherished so warmly as you did the recollection of my beloved and revered father. Time, and a sense of duty, have already, with us all, softened the bitterness of sorrow ; but I do not wish to forget what I have lost, I love to dwell upon his memory; and, whenever we meet, I shall feel a consolatory pleasure in talking of him with you ; for indeed, my dear W , ' take him for all in all, we ne'er shall look upon his like again/ He was in good truth the most princely-minded, the most highly gifted, the kindest, noblest, most strictly upright, simple-hearted human being I have ever seen. " My dearest mother and sister had not only to pass alone through the last scenes of sickness and of death, but spent afterwards three weeks at Marchmont, by them- selves, in the country, where every surrounding object was calculated to bring affliction still more home to them ; for my mother, deluded by false hopes, and partly from kind though mistaken motives, would not allow me to be written to until a few hours before his death. That letter was a fortnight in reaching me, and not without toil I arrived in Quebec, passing a third time the Portage in eight days more. My mother's forgetfulness of herself and exertions for others were even in her astonishing. . . " It has pleased Providence to give my mother many consolations, and though we have lost him to whom we all looked up for counsel and support, and referred alike every pleasure and every pain, still we have all much to be thankful for, and the respect and sorrow shown by the whole population of Quebec from the highest to the lowest, as by those who knew him in general, stand fore- most among consoling reflections. EXCHANGE TO 76TH REGIMENT. 57 " As for myself, you will, I know, be glad to hear of my promotion ; and I consider myself fortunate in these times to have got a full-pay company, though I regret leaving the 52nd." He had just obtained a company by purchase in the 76th regiment, then quartered in Jersey, having borrowed from near relations the necessary sum to enable him to make up the price of this step. From the time of the death of the Bishop of Quebec his yearly allowance had ceased, the bishop having spent in his diocese the whole of his income, and the small private fortune lie possessed he had bequeathed to his wife and daughters. Armine now lived entirely on his pay as a captain, and scrupulously paid off the debt he had contracted in buying his company. The regret of the 52nd regiment at losing young Mountain was extreme, and great exertions' were made by the officers to arrange some means by which he could procure a company in their corps, but it could not be accomplished, and he never rejoined that regiment. He always, however, looked upon the time spent with the 52nd as the foundation of his military experience, and when in the course of service he obtained command of a regiment, his aim ever was to introduce the high feeling of honour, the esprit de corps, and gentleman-like conduct, which had been fostered in that distinguished regiment. Before leaving England, Armine saw his mother 58 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. and sister comfortably settled near his eldest brother ; and by his devoted affection, judgment, and tender- ness, smoothed many little difficulties and softened many trials that were unavoidable in the changed position in which Mrs. Mountain was now placed. JERSEY. 59 CHAPTER IV. IN the spring of 1826, Armine joined the 76th regi- ment in Jersey. Sir Colin Halkett was then Governor of the island, and the correct conduct and devotion to military duty of the young soldier soon won his esteem. Captain Mountain was often at Government House, and from the knowledge of his character then obtained, Sir Colin was induced, on becoming com- mander-in-chief in Bombay, some years later, to offer him the post of military secretary. The following letter to his mother gives a sufficient insight to his habits and feelings at this time : " Jersey, July, 1826. " My beloved Mother, " It appears to me so long since I have had any conversation with you, that I will not let another post go out without writing to you, although this is a busy day with us. We have had muster and inspection of kits this morning, and are going out ball-firing this afternoon, and I am, moreover, by no means in a brilliant humour. Owing principally to my not being mounted, but partly also to sundry engagements of business or of pleasure, I do not very often go into the country, and have as yet made none of those pedestrian rambles which I projected. The day before yesterday, being invited to join a pic-nic 60 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. at St. Ouen, about seven miles from hence, I hired a rattle-trap with the doctor, who being called to the sick, left me to drive out alone. The road lay through the valley of St. Peter's, the most picturesque in the island. The fields of waving corn, ripe for the sickle, struck me with equal surprise and dismay scarcely conscious of the arrival of summer, I beheld the approach of autumn. I thought myself in a dream, and asked myself, with mingled regret and shame, how the time had been spent ; what good I had done ; how I had enjoyed the blessings given me ; what intercourse I had held with those I love ? The internal answer to these questions was by no means satisfactory ; and I have scarcely yet shaken off the feeling of melancholy surprise with which I awoke as it were, and found that day after day had imper- ceptibly stolen away, until another of the best summers of my life had flown, without aught to mark the progress of time without an event for memory to cling to with- out a consciousness of some self-improvement which can.alone console us for the rapid departure of life's best days. " The house of Sir Thomas Le Breton, Lieutenant- Baillie of the island, is the one I most frequently visit ; it is more of an English house, on y est plus a son aise ; and their parties are pleasanter than any others. We had a pic-nic a few days ago, to which they gave me the means of vectitation ; that is, a very nice English tilbury, with the younger son, just returned from South America, as a companion. We breakfasted at Pontac, an isolated inn in a pretty bay on the sea-shore, and then proceeded to Mont Orgueil Castle, where we dined. It is supposed that the Romans had a stronghold upon this rock. The present castle, however, is evidently gothic, though of MONT OHGUEIL. 61 what date is not known ; it has existed time out of mind, and is certainly one of the finest ruins I have ever seen. In the days of the Charleses it was successively the refuge of distinguished persons, and more than once of the monarch himself. The Due de Bouillon, who fitted up a few rooms as a temporary residence, was its last tenant. The castle crowns a promontory of rock, the base of which is washed by the sea, and from the highest tower the view of the village of Gozey beneath, of the island shore, and the opposite coast of France (only fifteen miles distant), is magnificent I have, as I believe I said, as far as parties go, which invariably terminate in a dance, as much society as I wish, and more than is quite convenient, as most of the principal people live in the country I continue to take my Spanish lessons three times a week ; but I shall curtail them to two, as they are somewhat costly. I read a, little, not as much as I ought, and have abundance of books, besides my own. I subscribe to a library, and the Le Bretons lend me whatever I want. I do not neglect my company, which gives me, however, mighty little trouble. Our men are all English, and of the best, though not most brilliant, description, that is, lads from the plough tail, who have no vice : out of four companies since I joined there has not been a single punishment, and but one since the depot came to the island. I have in my company a good many louts of course, but some comely, well spoken, almost gentlemanly lads, who colour up to the temples if you check them, which, however, they seldom require. I have had some cry and sob like children when I find fault sharply ; but these are too soft, I don't like them ; every man that can read has a prayer book, and the Bibles are given between 62 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. comrades Dearest Mother, I have gossiped of myself as much as possible, in the hope of inducing you to give me more particulars of the Vicarage than I generally get from any of you. " Ever your tenderly affectionate and dutiful Son, A. S. H. M." About this time Captain Mountain was strongly urged by his friends, and particularly by Sir Colin Halkett, who first suggested the idea, to apply for an unattached majority. The difficulty was how to pro- cure the necessary sum of 1400?., even if he were so fortunate as to obtain permission to purchase. The following extract of a letter to his eldest brother, who ever acted towards Armine with the love of a father, will best explain the circumstances : " My dearest Brother, " I have been vexed with myself for having troubled you with a letter, and I certainly should not so soon be again guilty of the like indiscretion had I not led you by my own words to expect to hear from me again. . . . Sir Colin had more than once, in the course of conversation, before said to me, ' You ought to apply for one of these unattached majorities,' which I, conscious of my poverty, had passed over in silence ; but that day, when he gave his opinion more at length, and concluded by an offer of recommending me to Sir Herbert Taylor, I came to my room hot from the encounter, and, having but barely sufficient time to scrawl a few lines, seized hold at once of pen and paper. JERSEY. 63 " That it should be possible for me to raise the cash and actually get the permission to purchase, being so young a captain, seems too great a piece of luck to fall to my lot, and I am half sorry that I wrote to you in the zeal of the moment. And yet, had I been silent, I might, perhaps, years hence, have looked back, and reproached myself with having missed a chance : the more, too, I reflect, the more do I feel, that no sacrifice of myself could be hardly too great to obtain such advantage. . . In the event of a war, I should be sure of getting on full pay for nothing, and, if I have the luck and the pluck (and, considering whence I come I ought to have), be also pretty sure of doing something In short, after the most candid and impartial consideration of the matter of which I am capable, the advantages by present purchase are so immense, that I would say to you, raise the money by your credit, and trust to me to pay the interest, as with great attention I might do, until I shall be able to repay the principal, which I have, sooner or later, reason- able prospect of being able to do : this I would ask frankly under present circumstances, but for one thing , I may die f there's the rub : if I insured my life, I could not pay interest and insurance, and exist myself, there's the choking bone, and, writhe as I may, I cannot swallow it." The unattached inajority was not attained at this time; but during the winter the war in Portugal opened the door for employment on active service, and Captain Mountain hurried to England in the hope of getting permission to join the troops proposed to be sent to Portugal. On reaching London he wrote to his mother thus : 64 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. " After being nearly a fortnight without news, a packet brought three mails at once, but, to my disappointment, not a line from you. I had fancied it would bring my promotion ; Sir Colin, too, was disappointed that it did not. I got on my horse on Saturday last about mid-day, and rode to Government House. ' Well, Mountain, what are you going to do ? ' ' I come to ask you, sir.' 6 You had better be off without loss of time ; it will cost you a few pounds more, but it is worth the risk. Meet me at the Office at 3, and I will give you a line to Sir Herbert Taylor.' " I gave over my company, sat up all night to pack up my books, and make what arrangements I could about my things, and started in the packet at daylight. We had a very good passage, arrived at Weymouth yester- day about mid-day, took a chaise to Dorchester, and got there into the coach, which set me down here an hour ago. I shall be with you probably on Thursday ; but as it must entirely depend on what Sir H. Taylor says to me to-morrow, you must not be surprised if I do not come. Now, dearest Mother, I am very anxious to get to Portugal ; but I have no chance of success, for I am late, and there are crowds of young men equally eager to go. Angerstein and his cousin Locke are both dis- appointed ; but if I can persuade them to give me the majority, I shall be in the way disposable, if anything occurs. I send you Sir Colin's letter, to show you what he has done for me : he has done by me rather as a father than as a general officer whose acquaintance I made a few months ago. When I went to the office, he read me his letter, and said, ' I have said little, because I thought a short letter best. Now, Mountain, you are taken by surprise in this journey. Do you want money ? Tell me if SIR COLIN HALKETT. 65 you do. It is no inconvenience to me to give you what you may want, and I hope you will have no hesitation in taking it.' I was taken by surprise by this offer, and by his kind manner, so that, hang me, if I could have found a syllable to answer. It happened that the paymaster had already advanced the wherewithal to make the journey, so that I needed not Sir Colin's assistance, which was so sincerely offered that I would otherwise have accepted it. I have left my horse and my things to take their chance ; but it is worth the risk, and I could not do less than follow Sir Colin's advice " Kind love to all, " Ever your tenderly affectionate and dutiful Son, A. S. H. M." The following is Sir Colin Halkett's letter : " My dear Sir, " I have this moment seen my friend, Captain Mountain, 76th Kegt., whose intentions were to have gone on leave of absence in the course of next month ; but, as it appears beyond a doubt that troops are to be sent immediately on active service, he has determined, with my permission, to leave this place for London this evening, with a view of using his exertions to get em- ployed. Captain Mountain is a young man whose cha- racter and military acquirements (added to his great proficiency in languages) would render him a most useful officer, and I can only say that, were I myself employed, I should consider him an acquisition in any e 1 aff situation about my own person. May I also trouble you by re- F 66 MEMOIRS, LETTERS,, ETC. calling to your kind remembrance the unattached majority he is so anxious to obtain. " Believe me, ever, " Yours most faithfully, (Signed) " COLIN HALKETT. " Sir Herbert Taylor, G. C, H." The permission to serve in Portugal was not granted to Captain Mountain ; but the Duke of York, who was then on his death-bed, was induced, in con- sideration of the Bishop of Quebec's services to the Church and country and his son's high character, to give to the latter the unattached majority he so much desired. This was one of the last acts of His Eoyal Highness, and Sir Astley Cooper writes thus on the subject to the Eev. J. Mountain : " After my letter of last week, it is with singular plea- sure that I communicate what happened with H. E. H. the Duke of York to-day. Sir Herbert Taylor said, ' I have the pleasure to tell you Mountain has his majority and you will do right in thanking H. E. H.' I went into his room and said, 4 Sir, I thank you for your great kind- ness to Major Mountain. You will have gladdened the heart and added many years to the life of a widowed mother and most excellent gentlewoman, and will have conferred happiness upon a numerous and most respectable family.' H. E. H. wiped a tear from his eye, and said, ' 1 am glad of it, I am glad of it. ' " Yours, always most truly, " ASTLEY COOPER." IDEALE. 67 Major Mountain now came to reside with his mother and sister at Hemel Hempstead, till such time as he could again get upon full pay. He amused himself in translating some of Schiller's poems, and wrote about this time the " Life of the Emperor Adrian " for the " Encyclopaedia Metropolitana." His translation of Schiller's " Ideale " is here given : " And wilt thou thus for ever leave me ; Of fairy Fancy's frolic train, Thy joys, thy griefs, of all bereave me, And never, never come again ? Is there no prayer, no spell can hold thee, Thou fleeting flow'r, life's golden prime ? Ah no ! away thy current's roll'd thee Far to the gulf of endless Time. " Dimm'd is the glorious sun that gladden'd My buoyant course in early life ; The glowing thoughts are changed and sadden'd Wherewith the bounding heart was rife. And gone too is the fond believing In beings that my dreams portray'd ; My noblest visions, past retrieving, Reality's cold spoil are made. " As lip to lip in fervour seeking, Pygmalion the stone embraced, Until the flash of human feeling The marble's chisell'd features graced, F 2 68 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. E'en so did I, to Nature rushing, Hang on her charms with youthful zest, Till she 'gan breathe, and, sweetly blushing, To warm upon her vot'ry's breast. " And, sharing my impassion'd yearning, Her silence into rapture grew, And now, the kiss of love returning, My bosom's inmost throb she knew. Then sang for me the silver fountain, Then lived the forest and the flower, E'en the rude rock and frowning mountain Felt then my spirit's genial power. " An impulse keen, each young thought firing, Thrill'd conqu'ring thro' my swelling heart, With life to grapple, loud aspiring, In word and deed, to bear my part. This world, how stately seem'd it moulded, While only in the bud 't was seen ! How little has been since unfolded ; That little, too how poor and mean ! " The youth with headlong courage burning, Unknowing care, despising fear, Bright honour in his day-dreams earning, Dash'd hotly into life's career ; Up to the palest star of heayen His fancy soar'd with eagle flight, Nor from the distant morn to even Was aught could stay her pinions' might. IDEALE. 69 " What could not he, when blest and blessing, So lightly he was borne along ? Around his car of triumph pressing, How gaily danced the airy throng ! Love came, and lavished sweet caresses, Fame, that a crown of stars had won, Fair Fortune with her golden tresses, And Truth, resplendent as the sun. " But ah ! ere half the way was over, The train had slacken'd in its pace, And, one by one, each faithless rover Turned sidewards with averted face. False Fortune fled, as in derision, The thirst of knowledge craved anew ; While of dark doubts a misty vision, Truth's sunny form had veil'd from view. " Fame's sacred wreath I saw degraded Profaned upon the vulgar brow : Love's bloom, alas ! too soon had faded, Nor promised e'er again to blow. Still more and more forlorn and weary, More waste and rugged was the way ; And o'er the scene, so dark and dreary, Lone hope but left a lurid ray. " When all that glittering train denied me, For me who dared their scorn to brave ? Who stands consoling now beside me, And follows to the dull dank grave ? F 3 70 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. E'en thou, who for the stricken carest, And gently heal'st each hidden wound, Thou, Friendship, who life's burden sharest, Thou, whom I early sought and found ; " And thou, her meek and mild attendant, That lay'st, like her, the bosom's woes, Employment/ harmless, independent, Unwearied sweet'ner of repose. Thou line by line unwearied tracest The fabric of Eternity Yet from th' account of Time eifacest Minutes, days, years, so silently ! " He remained nearly two years in this place, watch- ing over and comforting his mother, and winning the affection and regard of rich and poor. Twenty-five years later, when his widow came into the neighbour- hood, the remembrance of his character and virtues was preserved by his old friends and acquaintances, who vied with each other in showing, by kindness to her who bore his name, their respect and affection for Armine Mountain. He soon began to weary of this life of inaction, and made many ineffectual efforts to get employment on active service. One of these he mentions in the fol- lowing letter : " I have been lately much more in town either than I like, or than suiteth an h.-p. pocket ; but I thought it right to wait on Sir Herbert Taylor, and was twice disappointed in the day ; and I received to boot a very IIEMEL IIEMPSTEAD. 71 kind letter from Sir Colin ITalkett, telling me that he had written to recommend me to Lord Beresford, for the Portuguese service, and desiring me to leave my name at his lordship's house in town. The noble lord was hourly expected, but would not arrive ; so that, after waiting three or four days, I entrusted my card and address to a serving wench, and came back to my dear mother's quiet cottage. I should like very well to obtain the command of a battalion of Cacadores for a few years, and should not feel disposed to trust to said serving wench's powers of memory, but for the report that no English officers will be employed in Portugal on account of the jealousy of the people to foreign rule. I have been offered two exchanges to full pay Mais il y a une petite difficulte ; c'est que je n'ai pas le sou ! Exchanges without difference are immensely difficult to obtain, and I must be patient." About this time, Sir John Harvey was commis- sioned by a nobleman to seek for an officer who would accompany his eldest son on a year's tour on the Continent. Sir John Harvey's thoughts turned to Major Mountain, and he concludes a letter to Mrs. Mountain in these words : " You and your son will, I hope, impute this address to its real motives, the sincere regard which I feel towards all your family, and the high opinion which I entertain of your military son ; and you will excuse my adding my wish to secure for a very fine young man the benefit of a very valuable acquaintance, which may ripen into friendship." F 4 72 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. This offer was not accepted, as Major Mountain's earnest desire was for employment in his profession ; but a few years later circumstances threw him into the society of this family, and the friendship desired by Sir. J. Harvey sprung up between himself and the young nobleman, whose early death caused real grief to his friends. He afterwards regretted having de- clined an offer which, as circumstances turned out, would have led to his earlier promotion, and, in all human probability, his career would have been more brilliant ; but his mind was too well balanced to dwell frequently on the chances of what might have been, and he ever saw and gratefully acknowledged the guiding hand of Providence, that led him, through many disappointments and trials, to high posts in his profession, and a sphere of widely-spread usefulness. During the winter of this year he went into Essex to visit a relation, and was there attacked by inflam- mation of the lungs. The severity of his illness, and the remedies employed to reduce it, left him in a state of great weakness and exhaustion, so as to cause very great alarm to his friends ; but the sympathy and kindness shown by the neighbouring families were very gratifying, as proving the interest felt for him wherever he went. As soon as he was able to travel, he returned to his mother's cottage ; and with care and kind nursing, and the tender watching of mother and sister, he in time regained strength. In the spring he went to visit his brother, the rector of Havant ; and whilst there, his true and constant friend EXCHANGE TO 26TII REGIMENT. 73 Captain Angerstein, having heard of his delicate health, sent from London a thorough-bred horse and servant, to be at his friend's disposal till he was stronger. Such kind and thoughtful attention could not be rejected, and the change of air and scene, which he was thus enabled to enjoy, contributed largely to his ultimate recovery. Towards the close of 1828 he had gone to London, to make another effort to be restored to full pay, but found that nothing could be done for him at the Horse Guards unless he could give the difference, and even then Lord Fitzroy Somerset held out little hope of employment. He was on the point of leaving town, much disheartened and downcast, when he met the Earl of Dalhousie in the streets : almost the first words of the Earl were an offer to get him into his own regiment, the 26th Cameronians, then stationed at Madras. The offer was thankfully accepted, as the step was expected to go in the regiment without purchase. It proved, however, that the difference must be given ; but, considering the difficulty of being restored to full pay, and that Lord Dalhousie, who unsolicited had made him the offer, was going out to India as Commander-in-Chief, his military friends advised his raising the necessary sum, and joining the 26th. This, by the kindness of relations, he was enabled to do, and, to secure them from any loss in the event of his death, he insured his life, and then punctually paid off by instalments the heavy debt he had contracted. 74 MEMOIRS, LETTERS^ ETC. In December, 1828, he was gazetted into the 26th Kegiment, and in May, 1829, sailed for India. His greatest distress in leaving England was the parting with his mother, whose advanced age and delicate health made him very anxious ; but he had made up his mind, and determined to look forward cheerfully to the hope of return. The following extracts from a letter to his dear mother will close this chapter : - " Gravesend, May 10. " My dearest Mother, " Here we are windbound, and I am not sorry for it, as it enables me to write you a line. I have been arranging my cabin all the morning, and it is really very comfortable. . . . " I should have come on shore to church, but till the tide turned it was not determined to remain till to- morrow I went to evening service and I thought that my dear mother was perhaps at church at the same time at Hemel Hempstead, and perhaps thought of me, and I prayed to God for his blessing upon her and upon dear Tatty, and all my brothers and sisters ; and I trust to a kind Providence to bring me back to my beloved mother ; only let her take care of her precious health, and make Tatty do likewise, and, please God, you shall yet see six or seven feet of old Indian walk in some fine morning and claim the fatted calf. I dare not trust myself to think much of my separation from you, for it almost unmans me ; but I have many things to be thank- ful for, and yet I feel that I am launched alone upon the world. When I went to join the 52nd, it was to a country the sister province to which gave me birth, and DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. 75 looking forward to seeing you all after a time ; but now the distance is fourfold, and I look forward to new faces only and totally new scenes. In these there will be much to interest, and I go cheerfully, and satisfied that what is is best, and without a wish to exchange at present. . . Dearest Mother, how can I ever thank you for all your goodness to me ; how can I show the tender and dutiful affection which I feel, and which is part of my being, if I may so say, that feeling which will cling to me as long as life lasts, and can never know change ! " 76 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. CHAPTEE Y. AFTER a voyage of nearly four months, Major Moun- tain landed at Madras, and joined the Cameronians in Fort St. George. He had spent the early part of each day in studying Hindostanee and Persian; so that when the feeling of sea-sickness wore off, the monotony of a long voyage was not irksome, and he felt as he wrote to his mother, " that every situa- tion in life has its redeeming bright moments for those who would rather turn their minds to them than dwell upon unavoidable annoyances and priva- tions." Voyages to India have been so often detailed, that I shall only give here two extracts from his journal- letters to his sister, and then proceed to his first im- pressions of India. "May 21. " Having got clear of that horrible Bay of Biscay, I sit down again to finish my letter to you. I think of tlfe vicarage garden now, as in its greatest beauty ; my heart yearns for a sight of it, and a peep through the window at the inmates of the pretty little drawing-room, where I have spent so many happy days, and which always looked so neat and nice and comfortable, whenever I returned home after a short absence. I recollect going in un- VOYAGE. 77 perceived on my return from Jersey, and finding our beloved mother sitting in her arm-chair near the fire. I remained some moments without speaking to her, for she was quite a picture, and all around was so snug and ladylike, and so familiar to one's old and most cherished affections, that it was happiness to look on in silence. "I am always on deck before sunrise, which at this season in these latitudes is not till half-past six or later- After breakfast I devote the morning to Hindostanee and cabin occupation, and the evenings are spent in the society of this vessel. The captain, who seemed at first decidedly opposed to the ladies dancing, relented all of a sudden, and this became the evening amusement when- ever it was fine, and rather oftener than I, for one, wished. It is always dark before seven, but we enjoy the most beautiful moonlight nights. I do not, however, agree in the idea that sunrise and sunset and the moon's full light have greater charms at sea than on shore. They may possibly invite more to thought, as there is less to disturb the attention ; but there is surely less variety and less to interest the affections, or excite, by association, recollections of the past ; yet to see the great solar globe, rising, red as fire, at once out of ocean, is certainly a sublime spectacle. " On the 21st, at midnight, we recrossed the line ; we. coasted Ceylon, and fancied we smelt the spicy air of land, though not within sight. On the 27th, I went up to the main-royal yard before breakfast, but could dis- cover nothing : in another hour, however, there was a cry of land, and the hills of Sadras, like dim blue cones on the horizon, were soon visible from the quarter-deck. We were all eagerly on the look-out for the first catamaran, and as we hugged the shore, in the course of the morn- 78 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. ing, several met us. It is impossible to conceive a more primitive vehicle ; it consists simply of three logs of wood, some seven or eight feet long, lashed together, without any attempt at excavation or bulwark, and awkwardly, though not always, brought to something like a point in front. On this rudest of rude rafts, generally, three natives stand in line, stark naked, and with only a string tied round the waist, just above the hips ; but I immediately observed the truth of Bishop Heber's observation, that the duskiness of skin does away with the idea of indelicacy. They were generally small men, not so perfectly formed as I expected, and very noisy. On one catamaran, an old man, who stood in the centre, particularly struck me, as his long silvery beard singularly contrasted with the dark copper hue of the rest of his person. I forgot to mention that the cata- maran is propelled by a long narrow piece of board, which is used on one side as a paddle, when the men stand, and is held by the middle and used alternately on either side, when they sit. A little before sunset we anchored in Madras Eoads, in full view of the town and fort, which have an imposing appearance from the water. The ship was immediately surrounded by a number of native boats of extraordinary formation, but probably calculated for the surf which unceasingly lashes this beach, rude and clumsy, and of most disproportionate depth, and each manned by a Serang, and ten or a dozen rowers, who half stand, half sit to their work, and use by way of oar a rude pole with a piece of circular wood attached to the end of it.- One man sings or rather chants a sort of stanza, which seems to be repeated by them all ; and when several boats are together, the jab- bering noise they make is almost deafening, and yet LANDING AT MADRAS. 79 disposes one to laugh. Many of these boats were now filled with servants in robe and turban, all anxious for employ ; and in a few moments we had received number- less salaams, and had written characters forced into our hands. I was glad to hear that the Cameronians were in the Fort, as I shall enjoy an up-country march much more when I am less of a griffin ; but I did not land in the evening, and was afterwards sorry for it, as the king's letter was presented the next morning at daybreak to the Nawab of the Carnatic, who lives as a sort of state prisoner, though holding his own court near the government house. His highness gave a splendid breakfast on the occasion ; our regiment and several native corps, and the elephants in full caparison, were paraded, and a grand salute fired from the fort. It would have been a striking snow to a new comer on first landing, and it is a pity that we lost it by a few hours. "By daylight on the 28th the ship was again sur- rounded by country boats. The natives crowded the deck 5 and were, I dare say, troublesome ; but I was very indig- nant when I saw the chief mate running about with a great hunting whip, and mercilessly lashing all who came within his reach. The poor devils scudded away as fast as they could into the chains, and dropped into their boats ; but I heard many a heavy lash on their bare shoulders. . . . Having made a signal for an accommo- dation boat, a vehicle somewhat, though but little less, rude than those which came off with supplies for the ship, I took leave of the ' Grenville ' a little before mid- day, under the guidance of a very flash native, whom I had engaged for the day, having been cautioned not to take permanent servants till I got on shore. Our landing reminded me a little of passing the rapids of the 80 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. St. Lawrence : there is always a high surf upon the whole line of coast, as far as the eye can reach. I had explained to the people that Master would give two rupees extra if they landed him dry, and nothing if they wetted. They watched their opportunity, accordingly, of passing each breaker, still as mice, and suddenly plied the oar with great energy, making a clatter and a hubbub perfectly original in its sound, and almost loud enough, methought, to be heard at the Vicarage. After tossing about in a strange way, that might not have been so pleasant, if I had not known that a sousing was the worst that could befall me, I set my foot for the first time, safe and sound and dry, upon Asiatic soil. " The fellows often make me laugh, though it is, I know, a too great relaxing of my dignity. I told my Moorman, as they call the Mussulmans here, just now to ask the drum-major when the mail for the Pradwan was to be made up. He wanted a chithee or note, for this is the most note-writing country under heaven ; this very Drum-major writes me a note to tell me about mails. I was determined, however, that my Moor should carry a verbal message for once, and I repeated it over and over again : at last he exclaimed, ' Maloon Massa, equivalent to 'je comprend Monseigneur,' ' vat time is go England chithee ; ' and off he ran to ascertain. " I had scarely touched the shore, before I was sur- rounded by some score of native coolies, screaming, squabbling, and struggling for the porterage of the few things I had brought with me. I consigned them to a regimental Peon, whom Colonel Oglander had sent to meet me, and followed my flashy attendant to a palanquin, which conveyed me to the Custom House. I had heard of persons mistaking the mode of reclining in a palan- LANDING AT MADRAS. 81 quin ; it appeared to me very obvious. The vehicle is a long panelled box, with sliding doors and Venetians on the sides, and windows at the end, like a sedan chair cut down and prolonged : in this you lay your full length, or sit, as you fancy, with your shoulders sup- ported by cushions. The legs, of course, must be always in a horizontal position ; but to obviate the fatigue of this posture, when you sit up, a small bolster is placed under each knee : over the feet there is a shelf for your hat, and a drawer for papers, &c. . . From each end of the palanquin protrudes a thick pole, turned up at the end, which lays upon the bearers' shoulders : there are gene- rally six in a set, four working at a time, and the short man (for no attention is paid to sizing) placing under the pole as many of the little pads, which are generally suspended from it, as to bring his shoulder on a level with the tall one. The vehicle is a much heavier and larger one than I expected, and, with a weighty man within, must be a tremendous burden. Yet these fellows run you along at the rate of perhaps five miles an hour, under the mid-day heat of a vertical sun : they work the opposed shoulder to that on which the pole rests, with a singular, rapid, and jerking motion, that appears to assist them ; and they make a sort of complaining, grunt- ing noise, that still gives me a painful sensation. When they meet another palanquin, however, or arrive near their destination, they set up a shouting and jabbering that may be heard a mile off, and increase their pace. . . . " From the Custom House, I was carried to Grant's tavern in Black Town, where I engaged a room, and then waited on the colonel in the Fort. It would be difficult to describe the feeling of interest and surprise which the utter novelty of all that met the eye occasioned, 82 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. as I passed through the streets. I can conceive nothing on earth so striking to an untravelled Englishman as the first landing in India direct from his own country. To one who has been a good deal about the world, and lost in some degree the zest and freshness of novelty, to one who has seen the wild natives of America, of whose Asiatic origin there is, I presume, no doubt, and become familiar with the primitive costume and usages of un- civilised (or what we call uncivilised) life, to such a person, the first effect must of course be something less ; though, if not of absolutely dense intellect, he may pro- bably have acquired such tastes and habits of observation as may render his enjoyment of the scene more perma- nent. For myself, as far as regards the natives them- selves, my expectations have been fully answered in the pleasing and picturesque effect of their personal appear- ance, costume, habits, occupations, vehicles and utensils ; but in the face of the country I have been wofully dis- appointed. I see no fine trees, no luxuriance of foliage, no richness of vegetation ; and I was even more mortified by the first sight of plantains and cocoa-nut trees than at that of the vineyards and olive-trees in the south of France, which imagination had pictured from infancy as objects almost divine, and which are in fact less attractive than a green meadow in England about the end of May, with a hedge of holly and wild flowering shrubs. But I suspend my judgment, recollecting that the soil in the immediate neighbourhood of Madras is particularly arid, and that I have arrived at the close of the hot season. " The gentry, civilians and staff officers, all live in the country, and there are wide roads (probably the best in any part of the globe, and bordered by tulip trees, which FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 83 are pretty enough) extending in every direction : the garden-houses, as they are called, are spacious and luxurious ; . . . but the immediate grounds are in most in- stances arid and neglected. . . . Though I find luxuries certainly not within our reach in England, little English comforts are sometimes wanting. At a house where I dined the other day, and where iced champagne was literally abundant as water, I was offered a bath before dinner. I took it, but had to wait for towels to dry my- self, which were after all scarcely so big as napkins, and could not get a bit of soap to wash my hands, because somebody was either in the way or out of the way, I could not make out which. You all anxiously cautioned me against indulging in fruit most unnecessary appre- hension ! I have not yet seen, even at the governor's table, any fruit to eat ! I am told mangoes are very good, but this is not the season for them. As for the meats, they are so bad, that I, who am no great epicure, am re- duced to eating curry and rice, to which I am not partial, to get something that has at least a little taste. I do not fancy, either, the style of life. Gay folks here sit down at three to tiffin, which is a regular dinner and the principal meal ; . . at half-past seven or eight they dine : there is a great spread, where nobody eats, but where great he- fellows drink an incredible quantity of beer and cham- pagne : . . but let us return to the natives. In my ride last night I met a variety of native gentlemen. The first ambled along in true oriental style upon an Arab palfrey, with native saddle and bridle, attended by six turbaned fellows on foot, extending out on either side, to make as much show as possible. He wore his beard, which seems to be the distinction of the higher order of Mussulmans, was a great fat porpoise of a fellow, and pouted his lip at me, as c 2 84 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. if to say,' I am a greater man than you, Mr. Redcoat. The second was driving very knowingly a little English phaeton, with a pair of long-tailed white ponies, an equipage that appeared to accord oddly with his own Eastern dress. The third was the Nawab himself, in a barouche and four, and attended by some of the troopers of his body-guard, who are a rather better sort of cavalry than Bishop Heber saw in attendance on the great man at Dacca. But the fourth was the most striking personage, a mighty solemn-looking man, seated in an old bundy (as a gig with a head that has an opening behind is called), and drawn by a wretched white horse, whose scraggy tail was stained a bright pink. A black servant was leading the animal by a rope attached to the bridle, while a naked boy, with his head close shaved, excepting a long lock on the crown, ran by the side, and kept most unremittingly and gratuitously lashing the unfortunate beast with a long Europe whip. On the shaft behind was crouched another attendant of the Sahib, another naked boy, with such a head as I have described. I never saw a more comical turn out, and should have looked on, but for the eternal sound of the whip, with unmixed enjoyment. The genuine vehicle of the country is the hackery. This is a sort of wee tent, covered more or less with tinsel, and scarlet, and bells and gilding, and placed upon a clumsy two-wheeled carriage, with a pole, that seems to be also a kind of boot, as it is at least a foot deep. This is drawn by a pair of white bullocks (really an elegant animal, that trots nearly as fast as a horse). Nothing struck me more on first landing than these bullocks, which are employed for everything, and stand ready harnessed in the streets of Black Town. They are light made, have a hump on the shoulder and a bump on the forehead, with an animated NATIVE BARBER. 85 tapering muzzle, and very long horns, which are generally stained red, sloping backwards and inclined inwards. . . . The people who supply us with water, which is contained in leathern bags, use an inferior description of bullock, but are very agreeable objects in the scene around " I must not omit an incident which afforded me some amusement, and is one I imagine of purely Eastern cha- racter. I was sitting with my coat off in my room at the hotel after my return from the Fort, when a somewhat consequential, though miserable-looking native, with a club-foot, hobbled in, made his salaam, tucked a towel under my chin, and, without uttering a syllable, began to cut my hair. All this passed in an instant. I expostulated with all my might, but the fellow continued his occupa- tion with perfect unconcern, only replying, from time to time, ' make handsome/ I resolved, therefore, to resign myself for this once to my fate, and see what he would do. When he had arranged my hair to his satisfaction, he proceeded to shave me : he then cracked all the joints of my fingers, and loosened those of my wrist, elbows, shoulders, and neck, which last he performed by laying one of his arms on my shoulders, and catching me under the reverse jaw with the hand of the other. This done, he filled my ears with cotton, and cleaned them with a little silver implement : he then produced a small pair of pincers, and plucked the hairs out of my nose. . . . This person was the barber of the inn, who seems privileged to shave any new comer, asleep or awake, and whether he will or no. When the question of payment arose, I discovered why he so strenuously insisted on cutting my hair, though I told him it was not requisite, and he in fact so far attended to me as to take very little off; the customary fee for hair-cutting is a rupee, while the more G 3 86 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. ordinary task of shaving and joint-cracking is recom- pensed with a few pice. On my removal to the Fort, the local barber was very anxious to obtain my employment ; but once was quite enough for me, and I succeeded, though not without difficulty, in convincing the gen- tleman that it was my serious and fixed determination to shave myself, and to dispense with the attendant lux- uries ; for which, by producing with most persuasive gestures a little bag containing the implements I have noticed, he showed me he was prepared. ... It happened to be a stranger day at the mess (I am still speaking of the day of my arrival). The mess room is a fine lofty room, pointing towards the sea, with a capital punkah extending the whole length of the table. As I had no distinct idea of a punkah myself, till I saw one, I will describe it. It consists of a wooden frame-work of more or less length and depth, covered with painted cloth, and suspended from the ceiling by ornamented ropes ; other ropes attached to the punkah centrate in one, which is carried through a pulley in the opposite window or door, and drawn backwards and forwards by a man outside : the breeze thus produced is delightful, and you live in comparative comfort in the hottest weather. After dinner; the band, which is a good one, struck up, and I might have felt merry, but for the reflection that I had now fairly set my foot in Asia and become a member of a new society, after traversing some 15,000 miles of water since I turned my back upon the Madre's cottage, and that I could only hope to hear, after long intervals, of the welfare of its inmates. My vanity was flattered the next day by hearing that one of the strangers present took ma for a cadet just joined PAL AVER AM. 87 Sept. 27. "I left off this letter the day before yesterday, to go to Palaveram. I got an invitation to dine and sleep in the quarter-m aster-general's tent, in order to be ready for the review of the native regiments com- posing the cantonment, which was to take place at day- break the next morning. I happened to have friends to dine with me at the mess, and to be field-officer of the day ; but where there's a will there's a way, and I was anxious not to lose the opportunity of seeing a considerable body of Sepoys manoeuvre. When my friends therefore left me at eleven o'clock at night, I despatched my saddle horse and servants to Colonel Hanson's tent, and at twelve I went round my guards on foot ; and having made out my reports, and provided that Major James should answer for me in case of any extraordinary call, and that the gates should be open at three, started my- self at that hour. It was very cool and pleasant, and in my English buggy, with lamps lighted and an English cut of a nag, I might almost have fancied myself in England, but for the black horse-keeper alongside of me, whom, as I cannot be brought to believe that running is more agreeable or more wholesome than riding, I always take in, in defiance of custom, when I am alone. The fea- thering forms of the cocoa-nut tree, of which I caught oc- casional glimpses through the tulip trees that border the road, and the uproarious croaking of the frogs, whose sonorosity puts to shame the stoutest Canadian bull-frog^ destroyed the illusion. I reached Palaveram before day- break, and in time to dress and get a cup of coffee in Colonel Hanson's tent before the troops paraded. I should be very sorry to have missed this review. The plain of Palaveram, with its detached conical hills and c 4 88 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. cantonment, consisting of officers' bungalows and Sepoys' huts in regular lines, the native brigade under arms, and the company assembled to witness the show, composed of ladies and flashy staff-officers, and naked natives, pre- sented altogether a novel and striking scene, and gave me a feeling of pleasure that I have not had, I confess, since the first few days after my arrival " I was much pleased with the appearance and manoeu- vring of the Sepoy regiments : at a distance, indeed, you could hardly distinguish them from British. . . . The morning was delightfully cool, so that our party, amongst whom was a young lady on horseback, rode round the cantonment after the review was over. After breakfast in Hanson's principal tent, nearly as large as the Vicar* age, we adjourned to a hill, upon the summit of which the brigadier has built a bungalow of matting, that is a curious specimen of native architecture ; it consists of a large room, with a small one for a bed, with all manner of windows, or rather openings (for you see panes of glass in but few houses), looking into a verandah that runs all round, and is entirely constructed of bamboo, sticks, and different sorts of mats. Here, at the risk of being thought a stupid fellow and a cool hand, I took leave to take a snooze, being somewhat exhausted by the heat and want of sleep. I had been conveyed to the hill in Hanson's tonjon, which differs only from a palanquin in being like the body of a gig with a head to it. I held an umbrella over my knees, but the sun managed to get at one of my feet, and burnt it for me as if it had been close to the fire. The hill was very steep, and I felt ashamed of being carried, and inclined to get out and walk ; but the bearers when they had deposited me, went back for Mrs. W , the lady I have mentioned, and re- JUGGLERS. 89 turned for Colonel Hanson, who is as tall as I am and wice as stout, consequently no feather. At three we sat down to dinner, or tiffin, as it is called, though we had two courses, and abundance of beer, claret, and cham- pagne. When we got away from table, I espied some j ugglers amongst the crowd outside, whom I immediately encouraged to display, and, to my surprise, the whole party came out, and seemed to take an interest in the performance. They were three in number : an old man, who beat a sort of monotonous roll with both hands upon a small drum, slung before him, and made a still greater noise with his tongue, and two tall naked fellows more like Canadian savages than any natives I have yet seen, who performed various feats of force and dexterity. The most difficult fell to the share of a lean lanky fellow, whom you would not have judged to have any strength in him. He produced part of the trunk of a tree, about eight feet long, nearly as thick as my body round the waist (on second thoughts certainly thicker), with a rope fastened round the centre of it. He went to a little dis- tance, ran back to the log with all sorts of cries and antics, crouched down to the ground, caught the rope with his teeth, raised himself on his haunches with the log pending transversely from his mouth, and then with a sudden jerk threw it over his head, and away it rolled. The old Indians present seemed as much surprised as I was ; but a Captain M stepped forth and defied the native. He sent for a grenadier's musket, which he seized with his teeth just where the thick part of the but is fined off in a narrow ledge, and walked about with it for some seconds thus extended horizontally from his jaw. The native would not attempt it ; and I certainly never witnessed such an exhibition of brute force, for there was 90 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. no balance, the whole weight of the firelock being on one side. The captain repeated his feat successfully, and left the mark of his teeth imprinted on the hard wood of the but ! . . . We descended the hill towards evening, and went to dine with a Major P . As we returned at night three buggies and a carriage, the gentlemen in the former chose to have a trotting match. I kept up for some time, but finding my nag a little dis- tressed, for my buggy with the hood on is heavy, took it quietly, and they shot ahead of me. My horse-keeper, be it observed, was alongside of me, and I asked one of them the next morning if it were possible that his was running at that rate. ( Oh yes,' he replied ; ' the fellow kept up till I got to the turning close to the colonel's, when he gave in, being fairly blown. I felt him two or three times hanging on to the buggy with his hand upon the rail, but I soon stopped that by rapping his knuckles with the whip ! ! ! ' As Colonel H. lives on the op- posite side of Madras to the mount, the horse-keeper had about ten miles to run, as fast as a very fast nag could trot over the ground : the driver was a guest of his. " Fort St. George, Oct. 1829. "I have just had my drive, and now, as I hear that the 'Lady Macnaghten' does not sail till Sunday, sit down to talk to you. " There is nothing to me so irksome, as the restraint and confinement to which one is unavoidably subjected; and it certainly requires some resolution to resist the feeling of languor, and rouse one's-self to employment during the many hours that it is neither comfortable nor desirable to go out. The general routine of my existence is as follows : I get up at gunfire, that is at five, by lamp- LIFE AT MADRAS. 91 light, and, having a cup of old Tony's coffee, am on my horse half an hour before sunrise. Riding is not pleasant much after seven ; so that I have had my bath and am ready for breakfast by half-past eight. At nine Ma- homed the Moonshee appears (unless on occasion other- wise ordered), and stays till eleven or twelve. I write or read till three, which is our mess hour. At half-past five, when the great heat of the day is over, I take a ride or drive ; and as it is quite dark by half-past six, I am in for my tea by seven at latest, and write or read again as long as I can keep awake. . . . But there are various interruptions to this routine : sometimes I attend parade with the colonel ; sometimes I command it ; and, never having before given the word to more than 200, I find that it requires as much voice as I can muster to make 700 hear me. . . . This sort of life, though it may appear very pleasant on paper, is sadly sleepy and monotonous. To me, as yet, there is such an inex- haustible fund of interest in observing the natives, that if I had but some one being near who cared a little for me, and to whom I could communicate my ideas and feelings, I should be happy enough. I think I shall make a friend of Mahomed. . . . As I had asked some questions about the betel nut, Mahomed brought some one day to chew before me. He put a couple of nuts, something like a small nutmeg, into his mouth, and then about a dozen funny little hoods, each made of a couple of betel leaves, stuck together with lime, of which he carried an additional supply wrapped up in a leaf. He chewed away lustily, and the inside of his mouth, his teeth, and lips, were soon bright vermilion. The nuts, he said, were for the good taste, the leaves for the colour, to produce which, however, the lime, which he 92 MEMOIRS, LETTEKS, ETC. admitted to be bad, was necessary. To complete the mess, he put into his mouth a couple of nuts, which he called ( ilachee ' and which are, I find, known in me- dicine by the name of cardamom (to my taste very par- ticularly nasty), and a single clove. He indulges in this chew twice a day, and added that betel nuts are an article of expense amongst the natives. ... It is curious that the natives are said to allow their inferiority to Europeans in everything but music. Now let me tell you what their music is : one fellow puffs away on a sort of instrument that looks something like a magic lantern with a tube stuck into it for a mouthpiece, and produces a screeching noise, to which you may suppose our bagpipes and the penny trumpet you buy for a child to be father and mother, for it is something betwixt and between ; another fellow rattles an accom- paniment with his fingers on a little drum, shaped like our kettle-drum. Sometimes there are four or more of them ; and you may always see them in the villages of a morning, playing before some native dwelling, and hired probably upon occasion of some domestic festival. Nothing can be more utterly remote from anything like tune or melody ; and it is difficult to conceive how any rational or irrational beings can attach any notion of pleasure to such an abominable noise. They look upon bagpipes as the nearest approach that white men have made to harmony divine. At Colonel Hanson's the other day, a juggler was introduced, who was a very clever fellow, and at the close of his performance, to the astonishment of all and terror of some, he suddenly produced, from nobody could conceive where, a cobra di capella. The deadly animal reared itself on its tail, as the conjurer squeaked on the instrument already noticed, and inflated MADRAS. 93 his hood, on the back of which a pair of old woman's spectacles were as distinctly traced, as if they had been painted on it. " The town of Madras called Black Town, is situated on the sea-shore near the Fort. There are the Custom House, Merchants' counting houses, principal shops, some public offices, and divers streets, entirely tenanted by, and for ever teeming with, native and half-caste people of all sizes, descriptions, and colours. At rather a greater distance landward and near the Nabob's palace, is the native village, or rather town of Triplicain, where there is a handsome mosque and several small pagodas ; but I rode one morning by chance into another native village of much more rural and pleasing character. It is em- bosomed in cocoa-nut trees, and the streets were so shady that I was induced to prolong my ride much beyond my usual hour, and at last had some difficulty in finding my road home, though within a couple of miles of the Fort ; for I had lost my way, and was some time before I met a native who could speak English. Hindostanee would probably have helped me as little, for the lower people speak Malabar, which is a distinct language. In the principal street there is a small pagoda, only remarkable on account of six or seven monstrous idols in 'a row in the court before it ; monstrous in every sense, for they are hideously ugly, and quite colossal : the largest, which considerably overtops his brethren, must be twenty feet high. They are painted gaudily, have something on the head between a helmet and a fool's cap and an enormous club in one hand that rests on the shoulder. The poorer natives live in huts of matting thatched with reeds, looking at a little distance very like wigwams ; those who are something better off, in brick or stone houses, 94 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. very low, and built round a court, and presenting no opening towards the street but the door, which is always elevated a few steps above the ground, and on a line with which is the floor of a little verandah, where they are always squatted of a morning, cleaning their beautiful teeth with a couple of little sticks. Nothing can be more picturesque than the groups of these people, nothing more interesting than to ride early along the streets of their villages, in which they swarm to such a degree that it is not advisable to put your horse out of a walk. In the same street you see them of every shade and gradation of colour, from a fine deep black, to a brown so pale that, but for its evenness and peculiar tint, it would not be dis- tinguished from European complexion ; and their costume is as various as their hue of skin. The Mussulmans particularly are often very gay, wearing scarlet turbans, gowns of various patterns, and coloured silk trousers. The Brahmins are distinguished by their string, by a broad stripe of yellow paint on the forehead between two stripes of white, as well as by their consequential and lazy gait. The fakirs (beggars) wear orange turbans and cloths, and are bedaubed all over with paint and behung with strings of beads, but the majority are naked, with the exception of the turban and waistcloth. " The women wear a white, coloured, or generally pink checked cloth round the waist, and a similar one thrown over one shoulder, so as to cover the breast and part of the back. Sometimes this second cloth is coiled up at one end on the back of the head, and brought round to cover the breast, leaving the back bare. Nothing can be more graceful, more fitted for the sculptor or the painter, than this costume. From the early habit of carrying burdens on the head, they have an erect carriage, and NATIVES OF INDIA. 95 they walk well and bear with them an imposing air : the old women, however, neglect themselves, and, with their matted grey locks and shrivelled skins, are often the veriest hags you can imagine It is one of the most striking proofs of their perverse notions of beauty, that they seem fond of staining their faces, legs, and arms all over with yellow, which gives them a jaundiced ap- pearance. But the children amuse me most ; and I often feel surprised that Bishop Heber, who noticed almost everything, should not have been struck by them. They have the rotund body, but not the fleshy limb, of the English child, and seem to get the use of their legs much sooner : minute urchins, naked as they were born, swagger about in all directions, like so many Lilliputian men and women, and look up at you with a sort of pert confidence, that always makes me laugh heartily. The infant is always carried astride on the mother's hip, with its stomach to her, and its back to the world : the woman inclines her body a little to the reverse side, to make a ledge for it to ride on, and puts her arm round it. I have seen them enjoy the maternal nutriment in this position as the woman walked along. " I shall start to-morrow before daylight on an excur- sion, from which I promise myself much gratification. Colonel Hanson, the Quarter-Master-General of the Company's army, is going to visit Yellore and some other places on duty, and has asked me to accompany him ; an offer which I gladly embraced, as I may have, if we go on to Bengal, no other opportunity of seeing any- thing of this Presidency " I occasionally get a visit from the son of a wealthy native, who died not long ago, and held an appointment in the Treasury, to which the young man 96 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. is to succeed. His name is Colar Vencatachellurn Chitty. He is a Hindoo of high caste ; and though he wears the dress of a native, and paints his forehead, he has made considerable progress in general know- ledge, and speaks French and English with tolerable fluency. . . . Not long before I arrived he was married, and his uncle and guardian gave a feast upon the occasion, that cost him, it is said, 5000 rupees, and to which he in- vited several of our officers. Chitty's bride sat by him in state upon a sofa, in solemn silence, and as soon as the feast was over returned to her parents, with whom she will remain (being only nine years old) for the next four or five years, during which time her husband is not to see her. She will then, after a second festival, take up her abode with him. Chitty says that the woman must always rise when her husband enters the room, and even the mother for her son. This is horrible ; and one can feel, I think, but little permanent interest in a people amongst whom women hold an inferior rank in the scale of human beings. " Poonamalee, Nov. 1829. " .... I was to have dined and slept at Colonel Han- son's garden-house last night, and started from thence this morning ; but I was unluckily obliged to apply leeches to my ankle, in consequence of a trifling hurt, and could not, therefore, leave my room After writing till a late hour, I lay down for awhile, rose again at four, and, hobbling into my palanquin, started upon my first day's journey in Asia The country between Madras and Poonamalee is flat and uninteresting, save that to me, who am still so new in the country, there is always source of interest and amusement in the poorest native village and in the various groups of wayfarers that we NATIVES OF INDIA. 97 meet : now a long line of bullock-carts, now a troop of Hindoo girls bearing the chatty on the head, now a Moslem woman riding astride upon a pony, but completely enveloped in a long white cloth, with only a peep-hole for the eyes. The chatties, in which the women carry water, are globular earthen vessels, with a bell mouth at top, such probably as the Jewesses used in Canaan, and only differing a little in shape from the amphorae of the Romans. Sometimes they carry, in addition to the chatty, a bowl of milk upon the palm of the hand, extended horizontally on a line with the shoulder, to which the wrist is doubled back. " We left Perambankum before daylight. Large flocks of the brown, short-haired, lop-eared sheep of the country, and herds of cows and buffaloes, were grazing upon the wide plain. Our road lay through a regular avenue of enormous banyans : these extraordinary trees emit at random from their branches pendulous fibres, that grow downwards till they touch the ground, and gradually be- come so many props or secondary stems. . . . There was nothing to interrupt the bareness of the plain on either side of this singular avenue, which extends for several miles, but one small village. . . . But the most interesting event of this day's march was our rencontre with a line of seven and thirty commissariat elephants. The head man, a handsome old Mussulman, with a long white beard, came up to our palanquins, and salaamed to us. Hanson told me afterwards that the keepers of the public cattle are highly respectable people, and that an elephant is a provision for a family, the office of Mohout descending from father to son, as long as the line lasts and the animal lives On emerging from the avenue, we came upon a village, in front of which is a singularly H 98 MEMOIRS, LETTERS. ETC. beautiful tamarind tree (ever the most graceful and amongst the most magnificent of trees) : the leaves are something like those of the sensitive plant, and fall like those of the weeping willow, while the tree itself grows much in the form and attains the size of a fine isolated beech. Whilst breakfast was preparing we walked to the pagoda ; there was a Brahmin saying his prayers upon the border of a tank near it. We waited till he had done, and then asked him to show us the temple : this he declined, and going up to a huge clumsy car, that stood before the gate, and is destined for the idol on procession days, he began to mutter to himself, and tap his ears and cheeks in a manner that made the preservation of our gravity no easy task. We followed him to a little chapel at the end of the village, where he performed the like grimaces : there was a light burning before an image in this building, and some flowers on an altar in front of it. " After dinner, as the evening was fine, we mounted our horses for a gallop. My little Arab though, in addition to his daily march, I have ridden every evening, though he has been without cover every night, and wet and dry half a dozen times in the day is in better condition and higher spirits than when he was at home, doing little and carefully groomed. He feels like his master the in- vigorating influence of air and exercise, and of a purer and less artificial mode of life. We galloped straight from, the tents till we came to some paddy fields, which we attempted to cross along the ridges that separate them ; but our horses slipped off into the paddy, and were knee- deep in mud. W^e found another way, however, to a vil- lage, which was our mark. Two European horsemen were a rare, perhaps altogether a novel, sight in this retired spot. The natives crowded round their doors to gaze at us, and NATIVES OF INDIA. 99 I observed that the younger women and children were here as much adorned with gold and silver earrings, nose- rings, anklets and bracelets, as I had seen among the better caste people at Madras. A Brahmin called out to us that we had mistaken the road, and could not proceed in the direction we were going. We were not folk, how- ever, to care for a road. As we left the village the sun was setting, and the cattle returning from the pasture to be milked. It was a domestic scene that reminded me of dear England, and made me feel that human nature is everywhere essentially the same. Men are formed by their governments and institutions, and above all by their religion : their own caprices and prejudices confirm the broad line of distinction ; but there may be as much innate intelligence and a heart as naturally good, under the tawny skin of the Moor or the Hindoo, as the white and red European brought into the world with him. We gal- loped for some distance along the side of the village tank, and, striking across the country, came to a solitary farm house with something like a farm yard, where some mon- strously ugly buffalos were undergoing the operation of milking. Here too was a little detached swamee house (or chapel), with a lamp burning before a little idol. We returned to the tents through Trimalpore. Some wizened old women were spinning in the street before their doors, while the young girls huddled together and giggled much as they might have done in Canada, or France, or Italy, or even in staid England. "Our march from Moorkunj airy was highly interesting. After passing several choultries, which really speak well for the charity of the wealthy natives, our road lay upon the elevated bund of a tank, seven or eight miles in circumference, under which was a long narrow strip of H 2 ICO MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. water, which I took for a river ; in this were several cranes, the first I have seen in their natural state. . . . Having passed this tank, we entered the native town of Trivelore, remarkable for a handsome pagoda and superb oblong rectangular tank in the centre of the place. The sides of this last are formed in regular grades of granite, presenting four immense flights of steps ; and in the middle is an island with a pagoda upon it Just as we passed, the chief Brahmin was progressing to the pagoda on an elephant caparisoned with scarlet cloth : a fellow sat behind him, with a huge horse-hair fan in either hand ; and he was preceded by a drummer on an ox, and a number of pedestrian pipers, whose squeaking I*can never hear with common patience. Amongst the crowds, whom the cries of our bearers brought to their doors, I noticed two beautiful Brahminy girls, distinguish- able generally by their lightness of hue and profuseness of ornament. "About a mile and a half from Trivelore is the town of Tripasore. Here, in a small bungalow on the rampart of the ruined fort, we were received by Mr. Spring, the chaplain of Poonamalee, who comes over here (a distance of nineteen miles) every Wednesday to perform divine service to the king's pensioners and their families. Tri- pasore is one of the stations for discharged soldiers of the king's service, who, having married half-caste women, have obtained permission to remain in the country. " While breakfast was preparing, Cunningham and I walked out and entered a handsome though somewhat decayed pagoda, which stood within the old fort. The whole centre space of this pagoda is enclosed, leaving only a broad paved way all round between it and the outer wall. On the east side we found a couple of en- TRIP A SOft .v , trances, with a black bull, carved in stone, facing each. No admittance was to be obtained ; but a part of the wall that had fallen in enabled us to discover, in the middle of the internal space, a huge white bull, adorned with streaks of red and gilding .... "After breakfast Mr. Spring read the service and preached in a large open shed, which also does duty as a school-room ; and the boys and girls were afterwards ex- amined. It was really a pleasing sight to see these half- caste children, all of them neatly dressed, presenting each in turn their copy-books, which would have done credit to gentlemen's children. There is here also a native cate- chist, who performs service in Tamil and instructs the boys in that language. A remarkably handsome, in- telligent native boy stood at a little distance, watching the progress of the examination with intense interest. He was, I suppose, in the service of one of the pensioners ; for I saw him afterwards carrying a clumsy, white, fat, heavy-eyed child, nearly as big as himself, astride on his hip. The natives are certainly a smaller, lighter made, less powerful, but handsomer race, than any European nation, taking them generally ; and I incline more and more to Bishop Heber's idea that the pale brown is the original colour of the human species, and that lighter and darker shades have been produced by variety of climate and perhaps other causes, till they have degenerated into our white on the one hand, and the Negro's black on the other When the colonel had inspected the pen- sioners' huts, we proceeded on our journey ; and I was amused by the noisy contention of our palanquin boys to get next the colonel's, which I suppose they consider the post of honour. Mine got the start of Dalgety's, but were foiled by Cunningham's : they revenged themselves, how- H 3 102 MEMOIRS, "LETTERS, ETC. ever, at the end of the march. Just as we had cleared a wood of banyan and palmyra trees, we espied the tents. My boys set off with loud cries at a rapid trot, and brought me in first, in spite of all the exertions of their competitors. This struck me as a singular amusement, after carrying a heavy fellow in a heavier box nearly twenty miles. . . . " I now got on my horse for a ride, though it was nearly dark. . . . Our camp presented a variety of little isolated groups and scenes for the pencil, which I love to wander amongst though, alas ! unable to sketch them. As I passed the tank, the Mohout was washing our ele- phant : the obedient monster who measures ten feet in height, lay down, first on one side, then on the other, as he was bid, while the man shifted his position on his huge carcase, and then raised himself on his knees, and threw water over his back with his trunk, timing each supply to the word, as the Mahout gave his orders in a low tone of voice, as if he were conversing with a fellow- creature. After returning to my tent, where my servants poured chatties of deliciously cold water over me, and washed my feet, according to the primitive custom of the country, I repaired to the colonel's tent, and sat down to as good a dinner as would have been served in his dining room at Madras After I had returned to the tent, the Dak (letter post) passed by, not carried in a mail coach and four, but on the shoulders of a naked man. These fellows are relieved every five or six miles, and perform that distance in about an hour. When the Dak-bearer carries an express, he wears a bell about his neck ; if it is of great importance, he has two bells ; but if three, it is a signal of haste, and then he is bound to run as if for his life." CHRISTMAS DAY. 103 After a tour of a few weeks. Major Mountain returned to Madras, and shortly afterwards obtained temporary command of the regiment. His account of his first Christmas spent in India shall be partly transcribed, as giving a good picture of Anglo-Indian customs. But the beginning of the letter, in which he speaks of his tender love for his mother, and the deepest thoughts of his heart as he joined in the solemn services of this holy festival, is too sacred to be laid before the public. "Dec. 26, 1829. " I was up, as usual, half an hour before sunrise. On going out for my ride, I found the door into the verandah behung with a garland of flowers, and on either side of the outer door below was a stout plantain stem, the long broad leaves of which met in an arch at top, and were entwined with fruit and flowers. I felt a marvellous affection for the sea that morning, and only walked my horse along the shore, thinking of dear England and the dear inmates of a certain little Vicarage, till it was time to return. When I had per- formed my ablutions and sat down to breakfast, I found my revered Father's picture which hangs above the little table opposite to me, my large bookcase which stands behind me, and certain little mosquito fans that Tippoo's taste has left pendant upon the wall, all hung round with festoons of yellow flowers. My house-servants now came in : the head man presented to me a lime covered with gold-leaf, and two nosegays, and, placing a couple of wreaths of flowers round my neck, made way for his ellows, who put each a dish of fruit upon the table. H 4 104 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. You would have smiled to see me bewreathed like the image of a Roman Catholic saint, with nosegay in either hand, and heaps of shaddocks and red and yellow plan- tains before me return my thanks for this present, and intimate my intention of making a return on New Year's Day ; upon which, with low salaam, the party retired, and left me to my solitary meal : before it was over, how- ever, the two horse-keepers appeared, dressed out in their best, with more limes, with other two wreaths of flowers, other two nosegays, and fresh offerings of fruit. After iny return from church I would fain have been alone for awhile, but it was not so ordained. I found my Moon- shee waiting for me. He had asked me some time before to let him bring me a dish of rice on Christmas Day, to which I assented, lest I should mortify him by refusal. He now followed me up stairs, and, as soon as I got into my room, behung me again with two wreaths of flowers, and presented to me five gilt limes and two bouquets of roses. But the Moonshee's wreaths bore away the bell ; they were like the others, of yellow flowers closely set together, with rings of white at intervals, and a pendant or sort of locket of white and lilac flowers ; but they were larger, and the above-mentioned white rings were further graced with roses. The Monshee's men then appeared, bearing three large baskets, that contained some twenty dishes of various description " June 30, 1830. " I often look back to the quiet happy days spent aupres de vous and the Madre, and sometimes think of the queer chances and changes of human life, and of our unfor- tunate propensity to be for ever disregarding the present, regretting the past, and eagerly anticipating the future. How many comforts and enjoyments, then little prized, do MADRAS. 105 I long for now ! and how totally changed is the scene. Instead of being utterly disregarded, and equally unknow- ing and unknown to all beside the very few individuals I have mentioned, here I am, the commander of a thousand men, in official communication with endless public au- thorities in the King's and Company's service. Instead of having nothing to do but read French with my niece, or put my poor sister out in a duet, here I am obliged to work, to decide for others as well as myself, to punish and reprieve, feeling myself in great measure responsible for the conduct and comfort and efficiency of the largest body of European troops within 200 miles of the place ! ... I am so far better pleased, that I am professionally em- ployed, have a better income, and feel that I shall obtain by this period of command an insight into many things that are only to be learnt by practice. " September. " I am still exercising the functions and enjoying the emoluments of commanding officer, but look for Colonel Oglander's return in a few days. Whether he will take command of the station, and leave me in that of the corps, I don't know. ... I am glad to have had the opportu^ nity of five or six months' command, and feel more up to the thing than any man can well do who has never tried his hand at it." In the autumn of this year the Cameronians were removed to Bengal, and, after a few weeks spent at Chinsurah, the regiment was ordered to march up the country to Meerut. Some account of the march will be best given in his own words : 106 MEMOIRS, LETTEKS, ETC. "Camp, Tarangooneah, Dec. 1830. " Here I be, amata Madre, commanding a camp, con- taining some 3000 human beings of all sorts, flanked by fifty elephants, and surrounded by several hundred oxen and horses ! With a good tent over my head, a good camp- couch to lie upon, and plenty of English blankets to keep me warm, . . . with a sentry and two orderlies (one Euro- pean and one native) at my door, with seven and twenty servants and immediate followers, with five hackeries for my tents and baggage in the rear, and with a couple of beautiful young Arabs picketed on one side, what more can I want ? what but to know that my beloved mother is as well as I am at this moment, and the vicinity of some one loved object, male or female (I should prefer the latter), to console me for the separation from all dear relatives and friends, and cheer the lonely evening hour " My command here is merely temporary and without emolument. . . . We were to have made a fair start for Benares on the 7th ; but the contractor deceived the colonel, and the requisite number of hackeries were not forthcoming, and he therefore sent me off with the regi- ment one day's march, and remained behind himself to bring up the baggage. . . , I therefore, after all, marched off the old Cams, upon their first march in India. We started from the parade in Chinsurah by beautiful moon- light. I was on a young Arab, who had only had his first shoes put on the preceding evening, and on whose back I had never been but once before. When the band struck up he was much frightened, made bobbery, got his foot into a hole, and nearly pitched me ; but I brought him round in a canter by another road to the head of the column, and in less than ten minutes had him walking CAMP LIFE. 107 close to the band, as placidly as if he had been born amongst us. "Dec. 19. " One evening, dearest Tatty, during our stay at Tarn- gooneah, I was taking my wonted ride, and had just entered an avenue of fine old banyans. My attention was attracted by a number of people descending a tree in file, and assembling on a bank by the road-side. On approach- ing, I perceived that they were monkeys, and of a species I do not recollect to have before seen, of a light ash coleur, with black faces and prodigiously long tails ; the tree was full of them, and of all sizes, from that of a greyhound to that of a lady's poodle lap-dog. . . . " My first employment this morning was to attend parade, which I had generally dismissed long before sun- rise. I then took a ride or a stroll, and returned to my lit de justice, which was now open to camp followers and villagers, as well as to our own people. I have, I believe, before mentioned, that a European regiment has never before marched this road, and that the progress of so large a body of whites is matter of surprise and terror to the timid Bengalees. It was, therefore, a great object with us to establish a good name at first, to prevent them from deserting their villages, and the consequent difficulty of procuring supplies. You may suppose that some 3000 human mouths, with 50 elephants, and more than 1000 head of horses and oxen, create in their passage a sudden demand, which no single native village could meet : previous notice is therefore given to the collectors of districts, who issue their orders to the Daroghas of the different villages, and the requisite supplies are thus daily brought to each new camp before the regiment arrives. 103 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. The judge of the district wrote word to Colonel Oglander at Chinsurah, that it would have been impossible to furnish the requisite supplies, during our protracted stay at Tarngooneah, but for the excellent discipline maintained in the camp ! . . . I had no occasion, however, to enforce any extraordinary discipline in the camp. Not a single instance of complaint occurred against a European, and but two against followers : one of these was for forcibly taking some plantains from a villager. Having ascertained the value of the seizure, I sentenced the culprit to pay double the price, for having taken them against the will of the owner, and the verdict was received with great satisfaction by the crowd of Thanadars, Daroghars, and Chupprassies who surrounded me at the door of my tent. On the 16th, the tenth day from our arrival, the colonel having joined the day before, we resumed our march. . . . " Dec. 26. " We had service again on Sunday morning, and. the band sang a psalm. A chance traveller finding us upon this wild heath, and hearing the solemn sounds, might perhaps have thought upon the origin of the regiment, and imagined we were emulating the covenant-men of yore. The service of the Church of England, however, was read by the colonel, according to the King's regula- tions, with the only addition of singing a few verses of a psalm, as customary in churches. The colonel reads very well, and the soldiers' children, drawn up in a line on the other side of the big drum, which is the usual desk on such occasions, repeat the responses. I have heard the service less respectably performed in many a parish church." MEERUT. 109 " Meerut, April, 1830. " . . .1 marched into this cantonment at the head of the Cameronians, on the 26th of March. The men walked in as clean and fresh as they walked out at starting, and a great deal more healthy I have never been so busy a person as since I arrived here. As the general thought proper to inspect us after our march, I have had a great deal of regimental duty, and as several field officers are on leave for the hot season to the hills, my name has appeared in station orders almost every day, as President of the Prize Committee, President of an Invaliding Committee, President of the Court of Ee- quests, &c. Besides this, I was obliged to take, upon our arrival, the Presidentship of the Mess Committee, and to incur all the consequent trouble of purchasing, repair- ing, and furnishing a mess house, &c., &c. ; besides this,' the business of purchasing a castle for myself, and esta- blishing mjself therein." 110 MEMOIRS, LETTERS. ETC. CHAPTEE VI. TOWARDS the end of July, Major Mountain was invited by the Commander-in-Chief, the Earl of Dalhousie, to visit him at Simla, and as he was the junior major, and had no prospect of commanding the regiment, the invitation was willingly accepted. He travelled in a palanquin carried by bearers ; but as the rainy season had set in, the rivers were all swollen, and difficult to cross. I shall give his description of the passage of one of the smaller rivers, as it equally shows the way in which travellers in India still have to cross rivers, if their route lie away from *the grand trunk road leading from Calcutta to Delhi. " We came to a river that had widely overflowed its banks. Some natives were in readiness with a small raft of Kedgeree pots, upon which the palkee was to be ferried over. These large earthern pots, of which there were only six, are placed on the water, with their mouths down- wards, and fastened together by a light but rude frame of bamboo. First my petarrahs were ferried over, then the palanquin ; but as it was full as long as the raft, and a top-heavy load, it was no easy matter to place it upon the pots without either upsetting or breaking them. It was, however, at length accomplished : two men swam on each side to steady the palanquin, while three or four CROSSING A RIVER. Ill others swam ahead, to pull the raft and its load across. When the raft returned, they placed a charpoy or low native bedstead upon the pots, and I extended myself gently upon this. Two fat naked Brahmins, bedaubed with paint, had been importuning me for money during the two former voyages, upon the ground that they were padres, and that all passengers, black or white, gave them something to pray for their safe conveyance over the water. I had refused upon the ground that (speaking after their fashion) ' in my book it is written give to the old and feeble, but give nothing to the young and able bodied ; ' but now I promised to give something if they would see me over, upon which they instantly plunged into the water ; my bearers and the ferry people followed their example, and I had a dozen men swim- ming about me with one arm, while, with the other, some of them pushed the raft and others pulled by the rope ahead. We had still much mud and water to wade through, and my bearers became so fagged, that I was almost as glad as they were when at length they reached a solitary well, where the relief was in readiness." " Simla, Aug. 1830. "... I have said nothing of the scenery of the hills, and it is always difficult to give an idea of it. Here are no lakes, no torrents (save just after a shower), no water- falls, no bold projecting crags, no valleys ! nothing in short to compare to the magnificent and varied scenery of Switzerland ; and yet the hills are beautiful, and de- lightful as a change from the dead level of the inter- minable plains of Hindostan. This part of the Himalaya is only a continued succession of ridge and ravine. The ridges are sometimes connected by a narrow neck, with 112 MEMOIRS, LETTERS,, ETC. a precipice on either side, but more generally deeply divided by the narrow bed of what is, after rain, a torrent : but they throw out spurs in all directions, and form, as it were, a variety of caldrons, that look as if they had been produced by the action of water. The north sides of the mountains, which are richest in foliage and herbage, are clad with oak and rhododendron, which rivals the oak in size, and the south side with pine, larch, and Scotch fir. Further in the hills there is said to be fine timber ; but I have not yet seen a single fine tree. . . . The hill cattle are very small, but not otherwise peculiar ; but higher up, near the snow, the yak (bos gramineus) is used for the saddle and bearing burdens. I saw one, the other day, which seemed oppressed with the heat even here. It is like a small cow, but with a larger and somewhat peculiar head : its long hair sweeps the ground ; and its broad tail, which when supplied with a silver handle is used as a fan in the plains, is something like a bunch of maize. Near the snow, too, there are pheasants as large as a turkey poult, of most brilliant plumage, and a great variety of very beautiful partridges. ... On my way from Barr, I passed or met natives of every variety of complexion, from the black of the Negro to the even white of the northern Asiatics, and some who perhaps came from the borders of Tartary, singularly clad in long plaited robes and high caps. The Ghoorkhas, the conquered conqueroi 3 of these mountains, are generally small and dark : we have two corps of them ; they are very active and excellent marksmen. The Sikhs, who come here from the Punjab, are a fine race, tall, well proportioned, and very often of that very light brown, transparent, reddish copper colour which admits of a reddish lip and a glow on the cheek, and is (no unprejudiced person can deny) by far the hand- SIMLA. 113 somest colour for a human being. I saw some noble youths of this colour on the road, naked save their girdles, and with long hair, black as jet, and neither straight nor curly. . . . The original natives of the hills, who are the coolies and tillers of the soil, are generally fair, a short thick-set race, with a distinctive cast of feature. . . Simla is an extensive place : the bazaar and village are upon a spur of Jakko, whose summit may be some 800 or 900 feet above it, and consequently nearly 8000 feet above the sea ; and the European dwellings are scattered about within three or four miles around, wherever some conical summit, the neck of a spur, or a chance level on the mountain side affords a site. . . . The weather has been so cloudy and rainy, that I have had but one good view of the snowy range, which is certainly very fine, but did not strike me so much as the Alps from the hills above Neufchatel. Gungoutri and Jumnotri are more to the eastward, and not to be seen from the immediate vicinity of Simla. ... I met with a very kind and warm recep- tion both from Lord and Lady Dalhousie : the latter looks quite well, looks as young and is as active as when I first saw her ; the former is much recovered. . . . He ex- pected me to wait and go down with him to the plains ; but I think I shall be off sooner, though I should like to see his camp, which will assemble at the foot of the hills. The camp of the Commander-in-Chief, who is attended by the heads of the staff, contains 5000 souls, elephants, camels, horses, oxen, cows, goats, dogs innumerable ; and two of his own tents are each of them fifty feet long, thirty high, and twenty wide. What was the progress of a European sovereign in old times to this ? . . . Lord and Lady William Bentinck are remarkably agreeable in their own house, and they keep an excellent table ; so I 114 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. that it is in all respects a pleasant place to dine at. It is finally settled that Lord William is to meet Runjeet Singh, the sovereign of the Punjab, at Rooper on the Sutlej in October. Both great men will be escorted by a large force, and it will be a sight worth travelling far to see ; but as Lord Dalhousie goes down to see our regiment, on his way to Calcutta, at that precise time, I could not with any propriety ask to join the Governor- General's camp. " September 17th. "We started at dawn from Kotghur for the Sutlej. The bed of the river is 3500 feet below Kotghur, and the greater part of the path too steep for ponies. We walked the whole way. At the point where we struck the river, it is a rapid, muddy stream, something more than 100 yards wide, flow- ing in a narrow channel, and shut in by wild bleak hills. A Fakir had just crossed the bridge, a naked wretch, bedaubed with paint, and with his hair browned by the sun, and matted by long neglect into long, woolly rolls, like the fringe of a curtain. I could not believe that it was human hair until I pulled it, to the evident gratification of his saintship, who was proud of the deformity. Our chief object in descending to the Sutlej, was to swing on a Joolah bridge. The bridge consists of seven grass ropes, about twice the thickness of your thumb, tied to a single post on either bank. A piece of the hollowed trunk of a tree, half a yard long, slips upon these ropes, and from this four loops of the same grass rope depend. The pas- senger hangs in the loops, placing a couple of ropes under each thigh, and holds on by pegs in the block over his head ; the signal is given, and he is then drawn over by an eighth rope ; while the river, narrowed by two opposite projecting rocks to a width of about eighty yards, and GIIORKIIAS. 115 fretted by rocks in the centre of the channel, rushes like a rapid, some fifty feet beneath. The first half of the voyage is performed glibly enough ; but as the bridge of course gives a little with the weight, the remainder, when you are pulled jerkingly up to the opposite bank, is not so pleasant. Several natives were waiting on the opposite side to be passed over, and on a point of rock above the path a little Kooloo girl was seated, whom the General and I agreed in pronouncing the prettiest damsel we had seen for many a day. She was about fifteen, with features perfectly regular, teeth white as snow, and fine hazel eyes. Her dress consisted of one garment, a sort of coat with sleeves of white cotton, extending a little below the knee, lapping over in front, and plaited from the short waist downwards, like the petticoat of a German pea- santess. Her head was covered with a piece of white cotton cloth, confined by her hair, which is always worn braided into a long tail, that reaches below the knee, assisted, if necessary, by black worsted, and terminating in a large red tassel. Her legs and feet were bare, but adorned with heavy anklets. Silver rings hung from her nose and ears ; necklaces of silver and red beads covered her throat, and massive bracelets her wrists. The only ornament with which one would have wished to dispense was the yellow ochre with which her whole forehead was besmeared. . . . The Ghorkhas have probably done much to uglify the people of these districts. When they were masters o the country, it is well known that they habitually seized all the prettiest girls, retaining such as they pleased for wives, and selling the remainder into the harems of the Rajahs in the plains. These Ghorkhas are a singular race : they were first known as a mountain tribe in the neighbourhood of Nepaul, and, after having raised their i 2 116 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. chief to the throne of that kingdom, they subsequently extended their conquests over all the hill states to the Sutlej. They must have been originally Tartars, or pos- sibly Chinese, having precisely the features of the latter nation; but are smaller men and generally darker. . . Their conquests, and the stubborn resistance which they made to the British troops, are proofs of their activity and energy. Captain Nicholson affirms that they have all the virtues and none of the vices of the European soldier. My credulity is not wide enough to take in this; but Lord William seems to have a high opinion of them, and to prefer them to the Sepoy of the plains. The hill people, including the Ghorkhas, are Hindoos, do not kill the cow, and have a sort of inferior Brahmin among them ; but they have no distinction of caste amongst themselves, and fewer prejudices than their lowland neighbours. In some parts of the hills they are said to reverse the order of the plains, several men being content with one wife : but this I believe was more common in former days, when female infanticide was practised. I should be inclined to think that it would be less difficult to introduce Christianity amongst these people than perhaps in any other portion of India. . . . " 18th. " Near the summit of the mountain, we passed a common Devi, being simply the rudest possible altar of loose stones, with a long unshapen stone to represent the idol, erect upon it. The Hurkara, a well-dressed native, who acted as our guide, had been gathering wild flowers as he went along ; and when we had passed the Devi, he stopped, threw them upon it, deeply salaaming to the senseless stone. Such altars are common in all parts of the hills, and, to judge from the number of flowers pro- SIMLA. 117 viously amassed upon this in so unfrequented a spot, like respect is paid to them by every passenger. The altars of the Hindoo, like the cross of the Roman Catholic, in the mountain pass, on the desolate path, or in the deep forest, are at least picturesque objects, and doubtless often a source of comfort and encouragement in a higher sense, as well as a useful beacon to the lone and wayworn wan- derer. Why should the Protestant abjure such invitations of appeal to the One Power he acknowledges ? Simply, I suspect, because, in abolishing superstitions and abuses, the pruning knife was carried also to some of the orna- mental branches, which were not only harmless in them- selves but useful accessories. Why should the cross be the peculiar emblem of Romanism ? Because we cannot take it from them (the Roman Catholics), and are too proud to share it with them, are so nervously afraid of relapsing into past errors, so accustomed to regard the very name of them with horror, that even this favourable notice of an ancient custom may be read with disappro- bation. . . That you may not imagine me a convert to Romanism or Hindooism, I must remind you that Bishop Ileber condescends to notice approvingly the habitual and submissive reference to the Deity, so general amongst Mussulmans on all ordinary occasions of pleasure or vex- ation, and to wish that he could engraft it on his own countrymen, not certainly as a substitution for, but only as a frequent reviving of, inward reverence and con- sciousness of dependence. . . . Many virtuous persons, in their just horror of heathen blindness, blacken the unfortunate people with blame of deepest dye, leaving no redeeming points about them. It appears to me not altogether unprofitable to examine wherein some of I 3 118 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. us, with all our advantages, may take example from them." In October he left Simla with Lord and Lady Dalhousie, and marched with them to Meerut, where the Cameronians were inspected by the Commander- in Chief; and in December, Major Mountain received an offer from Sir Colin Halkett, who had just been appointed Commander-in-Chief at Bombay, of the post of Military Secretary. He had gone over to visit Lord William Bentinck at Delhi ; and, whilst in camp there, received Sir Colin Halkett's offer: and Major Mountain, in writing to his mother, says : "As soon as Lord William heard of it, he very kindly proposed to me to go on, as a member of his family, to Ajmeer, in anticipation of Lord Dalhousie's sanction; and then he will hand me over to Lord Clare, who is coming to meet him at Ajmeer, and will return direct to Bombay. I was very glad to embrace this offer, because I shall thus make the journey at the smallest expense, with the greatest expedition, and the most security. . . . Captain Benson tells me that if I had any prospect of command- ing my regiment, it would not be worth my while in a pecuniary point of view; but as I have not now that pros- pect, it will give me an increase of income, which is worth having. . . . The great value of the situation, however, is the information it enables you to acquire, and the opportunities it affords." "Bombay, April, 1832. "Here I am, and have been since the 21st March, safely in Bombay. . . . Having received at Ajmeer the news of Sir Colin's arrival, and a few days after an BOMBAY. 119 official letter from the military secretary to the Com- mander-in-Chief in India, informing me of my destination, I took leave of the Governor- General on the 10th of Fe- bruary, and proceeded the next day Bombay- ward with Lord Clare. . . My journey from Meerut hither was one of the most remarkable of all my wanderings, and I hope, when I become a little settled, to send you a brief journal; I will only say at present, that, having accompanied his lordship as far as Put in the Doongorpoor country, I pushed on to the coast, riding at first a camel, and then horses, which my friends in the camp had caused to be posted for me. Embarking in a country boat at Tunkurin Bendar, in the Gulf of Cambay, I was lucky enough to have a fair breeze, and reached this place on the morning of the 21st of March." Major Mountain now set his whole mind to do his work thoroughly and well, and soon won the confidence and esteem of all with whom he came in contact. Writing home in June, he thus speaks of his work and his motives : " The general, most kind as a friend, expects a great deal as a master. I suffer no interference in the line of my duty. I have not yet forgotten one single order, and have been uniformly punctual. . . . Mine is an office of great responsibility, in which hastiness, inaccuracy, or in- discretion might lead to endless mischief. I feel it seriously, but not shrinkingly, and write wigs, or draw up orders, or offer an opinion upon a court martial accord- ing to my conscience and the best of my understanding. Every situation in life has its vexations. I sometimes long again for the free life with my regiment ; but my i 4 120 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. office has its sweets, and I am in the way of getting infor- mation which will stand me in good stead in any higher post I may be destined to hold. " Not far from my bungalow there is a common little poojah-hut, or worship-place : in the cell within, the idol stands exposed to view, being nothing but a large block of common stone very rudely carved into something re- sembling the figure of a preposterous monkey, and be- daubed all over with red paint ; in short, a Hindoo idol of the commonest description. But his godship enjoys a certain celebrity ; and for more than a month past I have observed every evening, at the same hour, a handsome barouche, with a good pair of cattle and servants in livery, at the door of this poojah-hut ; while the master, a wealthy Hindoo, is muttering and salaaming before the god, accompanied by two or three fellows making a noise with voice and cymbals. Strange that the adoption of European inventions and luxuries should so much pre- cede even such partial enlightenment of the understanding as might lead to the conclusion that there is little virtue in a coarse and filthy stone . . . There is nothing new under the sun. It is only within these last few years that the manufacture of noses has attained any tiegree of perfection in Europe. Now as cutting off the nose of a wife who is supposed to be a little gay (to say nothing of the nose-cutting by way of punishment) is a common occurrence in the East, and particularly amongst the Rajpoots, who are very jealous, the art of re-fabricating them has long been successfully practised here by native practitioners ; but the European civil surgeon at Ajmeer, enjoying, I presume, the reputation of greater skill, told me that his chief professional occupation was the repair of dingy ladies' noses. BOMBAY. " I spoke of a Sindhee or Habshee, which is the name for an Abyssinian in this country lingo. They are gene- rally tall, athletic men, black as coal, with the flat features and curly pate of their country. One of these fellows the other day, being angry with a Parsee, j umped up behind the buggy which the Parsee was driving, made a grab at his ear, and bit it off. He was secured and brought before the magistrate Robin . . . The mo- ment the Habshee saw Robin, he bent down and made a rush at him. This false movement enabled Robin, who could not otherwise have reached to his chin, to fetch him a clinker between the eyes. Habshee fell ; Robin closed upon him : two Peons ran up, but, before they pinned him, Habshee had caught Robin by the thumb, and held him so fast that they were obliged to get a chisel and force it into his mouth to make him quit his hold. Robin fainted from the pain. The teeth had en- tered above the nail and forced it from its socket, and he will be lucky if he saves the joint. And now the Habshee is fairly in Robin's hands." The damp relaxing climate of Bombay soon began to tell upon Major Mountain's health, and he lost strength, and suffered much from indigestion ; but in the autumn the Commander-in-Chief removed to Poona, and in that more invigorating climate he soon recovered both health and spirits. In proof of his recovered strength, he writes to his sister, in August, that " By way of a lark and of exercise, I, myself, a soldier of eighteen years' standing, and a major of seven, am going through the drill of a private dragoon, and am 122 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. going through it too in a squad of recruits, five times a week, at daylight. The other morning I rode fifty-four miles with a friend who had a match (upon which / had no bets), did the business of my office afterwards, drove out in the evening, and was up again and at rough drill at half-past four the next morning, and all the better for it/' Differences on matters of public business, between Lord Clare and Sir Colin Halkett, ended in the recall of the latter towards the end of this year. For Major Mountain this was professionally a great disappoint- ment ; for had the Commander-in-Chief retained bis post for even a few years, his military secretary would probably have received the step of rank that he so much desired, that King William was so desirous to give him, but which Horse Guard routine and various circumstances had hitherto prevented his ob- taining. Writing to his mother, just before the official announcement of Sir Colin's recall bad been received, he says : " If I return to my corps, I shall travel back to Bengal with the consciousness that I have had no hand in the quarrels ; .... on the contrary, .... I shall find com- fort in whatever happens. I am content to stay and content to go. If Lord William Bentinck had found me unemployed, he might perhaps have done something for me at this era ; but I think it probable that he may be indisposed towards me in consequence of the differences between my master and Lord Clare, who is his great ally. . . ." APPOINTED TO GOVERNOR-GENERAL'S STAFF. 123 That Lord William Bentinck appreciated the dis- cretion with which Major Mountain had acted, is best proved by the fact that, as soon as the Governor- General knew of Sir Colin's recall, he wrote to Major Mountain in the following terms : - " Dear Major Mountain, " From what I see in the papers, there can be no doubt of Sir Colin's removal and of your being ex-secre- taried. I am sorry for this consequence, as regarding the parties affected ; but it gives me an opportunity, which I avail myself of with great pleasure, of asking you to join my staff. I cannot, of course, make you my military secretary, and the only appointment I have to offer you is that of A.D.C. I am aware that this is not suitable to your merits, and I only offer it as being perhaps more agreeable to you than playing second fiddle at your regi- ment. We have a great deal going on in military ar- rangements and organisation of every kind ; and while in respect to these I am sure you could give me much aid, .... I hope on my part you would never have to com- plain of want of confidence, or of esteem and considera- tion, either from Lady William or myself. .... " Yours very sincerely, "W. BENTINCK." As there was little chance of obtaining a Lieu- tenant-Colonelcy by accompanying Sir Colin Halkett to England, and as a considerable portion of the debt he had incurred for the purchase of his full-pay majority was still unpaid, Major Mountain deter- 124 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. mined to resist his strong desire to go home, and ac- cepted Lord William Bentinck's offer. After the departure of Sir C. Halkett, he pro- ceeded to join the Governor-General. The following extract from a letter dated August, 1834, gives a slight sketch of the intervening months : " Ootakamund, Neilgherry Hills. " .... I ought to have written to you sooner, but I have had a good deal of travelling, a good deal of em- ployment, and a good deal I cannot say of illness, but of continued ailments very depressing to the spirits ; but I am now nearly quite well. I need not talk of my journey from Bombay, of my joining Lord William at Bangalore, of his sudden attack of illness, and our conse- quent move to these hills. . . . We are likely to remain here at least two months more, and then proceed either to the western or eastern coast to embark for Calcutta. .... These hills have been enveloped in mist for the last three weeks, accompanied with rain unceasing. To us who are well clothed and sheltered, the scene around is cold and comfortless ; but of the ill-housed, half-naked natives, several have died of cold. Two Sundays ago I rode out at eve, taking advantage of a break in the weather. Just as I had ascended the hill beyond this mansion south-westward, from whence the monsoon comes, and had increased my horse's pace, he made an outrageous start directly round, which, as the ground was slippery, bid fiair to break both our necks. On looking round for the cause of this unwonted proceeding, I saw a man lying extended on the road, naked save the miserable rag that had served as a waistcloth, and, which, NEILGHERRIES. 125 apparently, when he laid him down to die in that keen cold blast, he had pulled up over his face. On dis- mounting and removing the cloth, I beheld the features of an aged man adorned with a flowing grey beard. He was stiff and stark in death, but could not have been long dead, as the body was still warm. I had him of course removed, and, upon making my report to the police-master, was informed by him that several of the poor have died of cold here during this weather, and that a servant of his, coming up from the low country a day or two ago, had found no less than five dead men upon the road between the top of the pass and this place. . . . These victims of the blast are lowlanders, whom the hope of gaining a livelihood, or other cause, had brought to these regions. The hill-people, who are few in number, are better inured to the climate, and are never destitute of such clothing, food, and shelter, as are used amongst them I look forward with pleasure to our return to the city of palaces at the best season of the year, to Lady William, the kindest of the kind, a more mixed society, and a more varied life. You may, however, be surprised that I have said nothing of Lord William. He is, of course, so overwhelmed with business that we see but little of him. He is, indeed, worth the whole lot of us, ten times told. So much power has seldom been lodged in hands so pure. His views are all truly bene- volent and philanthropic, and though he may have been sometimes mistaken (as who is not ?) and has incurred much unpopularity by measures of necessary economy, of which he has been the instrument, he is a man comme il y en a peu, and who deserves to be loved. The happiest moments I have spent here have been in his company the most instructive hours in his employ." 126 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. In a letter to Sir Harry Verney also dated from Ootacamund 1834, Major Mountain writes : 46 We are living here in a large mansion built by the late Sir William Rumboldt : the party, by the death of Captain Dalby, has been reduced to eleven of these Lord William himself is beyond compare the frankest, the kindest, the most cheerful, and the most agreeable. Here, amid business and great folk, I do not see much of him ; but I was with him lately a good deal alone on a four days' excursion to Coonoor, when he was very much inclined to conversation " For Lord William I entertain the most sincere respect ; it is a pleasure to see so much power in hands so pure. All his views are truly philanthropic, and to those that deserve it nothing can exceed his kindness. No man, who has incurred so much unpopularity as he has done, by being the instrument of measures of neces- sary economy, not always effected perhaps in the manner he intended, ever so much deserved to be loved ! I speak disinterestedly, for he is so scrupulous on the score of patronage, that I look for nothing beyond my present post " The effect of a few feet of elevation in these latitudes is wonderful. Within 30 miles of us the thermometer is ranging from 95 to 100 ; here it is pretty stationary at 62. The Neilgherries are a succession of round bare, grassy mountains, with thick patches of jungle nestled in their hollows and dingles, and divided by narrow valleys, which are so many water-courses, or often morasses ; the occasional level of these valleys, and the sheltered slopes, are here and there cultivated, but the general aspect of the hills is that of an uucul- NEILGHERRIES. 127 tivated and uninhabited region. Of inhabitants, how- ever, there are three classes : the Todawars, the Burghers, and the Kohatars the two latter classes were originally refugees from the plains. The Burghers are Hindoos, live in villages consisting of a few long lines of low huts, and cultivate various sorts of common grain, of which they pay tithe to the Todawars, who are thus acknowledged lords of the soil. The Kohatars also live in villages and also cultivate a little, but they are the mechanics, the carpenters, smiths, musicians, &c., to the other two classes ; they are not Hindoos, are eaters of the cow, and any flesh they can get, have no caste, and are a filthily dirty race. The Todawars are the original race ; distinct in appearance, religion, lan- guage, and customs from any other known tribe ; they are a purely pastoral people, keeping no domestic animal save the buffalo (of which they have vast herds), and on the milk of which, with the grain received from the other classes, they live exclusively, cultivating nothing, and using no handicraft. They live by families in low huts nestled on the most retired and sheltered spots ; they wear nothing on the head, and no clothing beyond the large thick cloth, which envelopes the person of the female like a shroud, but in the male is thrown over the shoulder, like a Roman toga, leaving the legs bare from the knee downwards. They are a fine and simple race, but have the singular usage of reversing the order of the Asiatics in respect to their women, each of whom has from two or three to six or more husbands ; there is something Jewish in their features, and I think it by no means impossible that they are some stray portion of the lost Tribes !" 128 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. In the end of August a force was assembled to march to Shehkawattie, under General Stevenson ; and the 26th Eegiment being ordered to form part of the army, Major Mountain obtained leave to join his regiment, in the hope of seing some active ser- vice. He started immediately for Bengal ; but, on his arrival in the camp at Meerut, he found that the field force was to be dispersed, and that his long journey had been in vain. His movements after this are best described in his own words, in his journal- letter to his sister : " Brigadier- General Stevenson having, on dispersion of the Jodpore field force, determined to march with a few regiments and part of the train into this remote province, for the suppression of the Shehkawattie free- booters, invited me to join him. I wrote, in Lord William's absence, to General Sleigh upon the subject, and went, pending the receipt of his reply, from Agra to Meerut. He advised me to accept the brigadier -general's offer ; so here I am with a capital tent, a horse to ride, a good table, and nothing to do but to amuse myself. How long I shall remain with the camp I have not the slightest conception, as Lord William, who is daily expected in Calcutta, may recall me ; but, as there is not the slightest prospect of active service, I shall be content to go or stay. Upon receipt of General Sleigh's letter, I wrote immediately to young Blake, the political officer at Delhi, and left Meerut by Dak, on the evening of the llth. . . . General Stevenson had been marching all this time from Agra upon Sumbur. I reached Delhi at dawn on the 12th November, and halted there that day. The political TRAVELLING. 129 officer had made arrangements for helping me on I started half an hour before sunrise in a buggy, found a fresh horse at Sufter Jung's tomb, and at the Kuttub a couple of riding camels and an attendant Shootar Suwar. The king was with his Zenanah at the fountain ; and a sentinel posted on the road called to me to dismount, lest from my lofty monture I should get a peep at the royal pastime. Not thinking it worth while to dispute the point, I complied. . . . Ten long miles over a dismal country brought me to Bacon's at Gourgaon, where I breakfasted and halted till past three, and drove then in his buggy to Hursuroo Gurhee, where I remounted my camel, which I had sent on. At dusk I came upon three Suwars, resting under a tree by the way-side. As soon as they saw me, they mounted, and galloping up to me, presented salaam on the part of their master, the Nuwab of Bareuch. A little further on, I met three more Suwars and a mounted torchbearer. I got upon one of the Suwars' horses, but did not find much relief, as the padded saddle was so awfully wide, that, despite my long legs, I felt like a spread eagle. We pushed on merrily, however, the Mussalchee floundering along in front, with uplifted torch in one hand and a whip in the other, frequent ap- plication of which was needed, to enable him to keep the lead. Animated by the noise of our increased numbers, the camels kept up with the horses, and we reached Patoudie soon after seven o'clock. The Nuwab received me at the door of a house which he reserved for visitors, and conducted me into a well-furnished apartment, where, after I had performed my ablutions, an excellent Hindos- tanee dinner, consisting of pilaws, stews, game variously dressed, and sweetmeats, was served to me, with the con- venience of plate, fork, and spoon. The meal concluded, K 130 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. his highness and his Mookhtyar or minister, reappeared, and sat down beside me ; the former apologised for his native cookery, which was in my mind far better than our Anglo-Indian, and requested that, if satisfied with my reception, I would give him a letter to Blake, to whose introduction I, of course, owed my consequence. In an adjoining room I found a clean bed, studded with various little pillows, according to native usage. " The Nuwab of Bareuch is a Jagheerdar, or Company's feudatory, ruling his own country under a certain tenure. This day's journey by the Kuttub was a good forty miles, about twenty-four of which I rode on the camel ; but, by the direct road, it is upwards of thirty-five miles ; and yet my bearers, who had only a few hours' start of me, had arrived before me, put on clean dresses, laid out my change of apparel, and were in waiting to receive me. " 14th. "My camels and palkee had been sent on with separate escorts during the night, and I started in the morning, by torchlight, on a horse of the Nuwab's, with a couple of Suwars. A Suwar is a native horseman, generally a very picturesque-looking fellow, armed with either a long matchlock or a spear, in addition to his sword, and shield, and pistols. His long cloth gown and turban are of various colours, and he wears a shawl round his waist, and another perhaps over his shoulders. His horse is more or less adorned with trappings, and the saddle bears the coarse blanket of the animal and the resai of the master, forming a soft and wide seat, on which he maintains himself without the exertion that is required upon the slippery leather of our narrow saddles. A resai is a quilt wadded with cotton ; I carry a couple TRAVELLING. 131 upon my camel, and want nothing but a common cot to make as good a bed as any soldier need or ought to desire. " At Janth I found my camels waiting for me with a couple of Suwars, and met four others returning from escort duty with the palkee, who drew up on the road-side and salaamed. The picturesque effect of such little groups always arrests my eye, and carries my thoughts to the dear Madre and to you, with the vain wish that I could adequately convey to you the feeling of the moment. I pushed on with the camels to Rewarree, where I break- fasted in the Thanadaree, or building appropriated to the Thanadar, or native head of the police. The little thatched chamber in which I rested was perched upon an old building above the court, where the police Suwars picket their horses, and hung around with swords and shields, bows and quivers The Tussildar paid me a visit. He is a very respectable, good-humoured old Hindoo, and gave me occasion to admire his tact. The deer-skin belts, that were hanging around, had led me to speak of the Hindoo prejudice against our leather ; and when the Tussildar observed that the Mussulmans of the party were ranged on my side, and disposed to smile at his expense, he forthwith began to relate an anecdote of a Mogul emperor, who had assembled all the Moolwas and Pundits of the country, for the purpose of deciding upon the properties of the ox ; the Mussulman and Hindoo sages were agreed that beef was unwholesome, and the emperor thereupon issued a decree forbidding the slaughter of the cow species. This story, whether got up for the occasion or not, completely imposed silence upon his Mussulman auditors. K 2 132 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. " At three in the afternoon, I proceeded on my journey, and reached Shahjehanpore by dusk. " loth. " Shajehanpore is the last Company's village in this direction ; and Barroda, the first considerable place I came to this morning, belongs to the Rao Rajah of Ulwar. His highness, upon receipt of Blake's letter, sent his favourite camel, Ghureeba, with two Shootar Suwars and an escort of horse, to meet me at Goorjabas, with ser- vants, and a cart loaded with tables, chairs, and provisions for my entertainment there. His Dewanjee, Balmookun, who chanced to be in the neighbourhood, with six Risalas of horse, to enforce the payment of rents from some re- fractory vassals, was further ordered to go out to meet me. "Arriving a day sooner than I was expected, I was near losing the benefit of these arrangements ; but, missing my way, I luckily stumbled upon the Dewanjee's camp. Balmookun hurried out to meet me, on a horse loaded with trappings, and attended by a crowd of Shootar Suwars and horsemen, and silver-sticks and swordsmen on foot. I, on my humble, unadorned camel, was instantly surrounded by this glittering throng, conducted to the tents, seated upon the carpet in the midst of an assembly of chiefs, and overwhelmed with civilities and apologies. The Tussildar of the district appeared, and, with deep salaam, presented me with two rupees, which I only touched, and several earthen pots of sweetmeats, which I accepted for my people. Balmookun then presented me with a bag of rupees, 'containing, I presumed, about 500 ; and, upon my persisting in declining to accept it, he begged a certificate from me that I did not reject it from any dissatisfaction with my reception. The Dewanjee INDIAN HOSPITALITY. 133 now retired to take his breakfast, and sent me mine, of which I stood much in need ; for the sun was now high, and I had ridden sixteen miles. Additional cushions were now brought in for me to rest on, and the meal was spread on a little platform, about half a foot high : it consisted of wheaten chepatties, fresh butter, which tasted however more like curds, candied sweetmeats, and almonds, with native tea, which had an unpleasant perfumed taste, but was drinkable enough with milk and sugar. A fine- looking man in native dress, but with European coun- tenance, sat beside me. His father, he told me, was sergeant-major of the 2nd Regiment N. I. He had been several years in the Rajah's service, and was lately pro- moted to the command of an infantry battalion. His feet were bare ; and though his fair hair, which hung down below his turban, and the fashion of his features, betrayed his origin, he well became his costume, of which he lauded the convenience " At 3 o'clock, the Dewanjee, with his train, escorted me in due form out of camp, and a large body of horse- men attended me, despite all remonstrance on my part, all the way to Kotpootlee. We rode up to the Chabootra, which has a large enclosed court before it, and the Da rogha received us with the respect which my showy escort claimed, according to native usance. A separate apartment was assigned to me and Bookhaut Singh, a commander of horse in the Rao Rajah's service. " 16th. " Started at daylight with my regular escort of three Shootar Suwars and five Suwars, including the com- mander, Meer Saheb Farzund Ulee. I now rode a camel, which the Rao Rajah had sent for me, and the Chowdry took Shums-ud-deen's camel, which I had hitherto ridden- K 3 134 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. What we call camels in India are the one-humped animal, properly called a dromedary. The native names are oont, shootar, and sanee ; and the rider, who is armed with a carbine and pair of pistols, is called a Shootar Suwar " We turned off the road to Shapoorah, the residence of Hunwunt Singh. ... I had sent on a letter from Blake, and was met a couple of miles from the place by a party of two horsemen, not very splendidly mounted, and a couple of Suwarree camels, bearing each two riders. Our cavalcade passed under a high arched gateway, and up a wider street than is usual in native towns ; but when nearly opposite the palace, we were stopped short at the Chabootrie, rather, methought, to the mortification of Meer Saheb and Mojee Ram, who seemed to expect that the palace gates would open to our reception. I alighted, however, and in due time received a basket of very fine oranges from the Rajah, who begged to be informed whether I would have my dinner served where I was or at the palace. I decided for the latter. I perceived that the open arcade, in which I was, was upon a level with the roofs of the houses of the street ; but as the torches around prevented me from seeing anything distinctly beyond the space allotted to me, I fancied myself private, like the ostrich when he hides his head, and proceeded to my ablutions in view, as I afterwards found, of several parties assembled upon the houses opposite, to gaze upon the white stranger. I had stipulated for a horse if I went to the palace, and I found a nag ready. Crossing a couple of courts, I was shown through a dusky gateway, and sundry apartments crowded with lumber, and up dark narrow staircases of stone, until at length I arrived in a small open pavilion at the top of the building, in which KAJrOOT DINNER. 135 there was a small Brahminy cow, clothed in wadded resai, and lying upon a carpet. In due time, the curtains were let down, chair and table brought in, and my dinner was served; it was a regular Rajpoot dinner. The pickles I did not like, but the pilaws and sweetmeats were very good. A bottle of native shrab (spirit) was brought ; but it was so awfully potent, that I could scarcely bear to put it to my lips. It had a taste between eau-de-Cologne and whiskey, and a little whitened the water, which I largely mixed with it, but still could not swallow it. About a score of persons, squatted on the floor, were staring at me all the while, beside the little cow, who alone was pleased to stand. u My repast concluded, Hunwunt Singh received me in Durbar. There were three ordinary dancing girls squalling in the midst of a little court, on the same level with my pavilion, and under an arcade at the upper end of it the Rajah was seated in the midst of his people. He rose to receive me, and I then squatted down upon the carpet on his right hand. Considering that I never served an apprenticeship at Stulz's, I can maintain the cross-legged position passing well. . . . On signifying my wish to retire, attar was brought as usual, and then a couple of trays of shawls. The Dewan added that there was a horse for me below. The Eajah is a good-looking young man and wore a handsome shawl ; but his people were very plainly clad ; and from the appearance of his residence, I judged that he could not be very sorry at my declining to accept the trays and horse. " 17th. " Started at daylight, and regained the Ajmeer road. . . . The road leads up a narrow heavy pass between sand- hills, and debouches upon a plain surrounded by detached K 4 136 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. ranges of rocky hills, each of which bears its fortress or temple. Crossing this plain we came to Mohur, and dis- turbed at the entrance of the place a large assembly of monkeys ; they crossed the road before us to the number of thirty or forty, one by one, and were of the large grey kind, with coal-black faces, white whiskers, and tremen- dously long tails. The town, which is built of stone and surrounded by an embattled stone wall, is nestled under a hill, and commanded by a handsome castle. The gate of the town-wall is so low, that, though I lay down flat upon my camel, I barely cleared the top of the arch. . . . Reached Samote. We enfiladed the place, and passing out of the further gate alighted at a well shaded by some noble banyans. There was a comfortable building near, the open door of which invited entrance. I passed into the court, and, seeing no one, into a second and a third. There were cots around, good store of grain, culinary utensils, and all the appurtenances of an opulent eastern menage, which I was surveying at my leisure, when a naked old Brahmin appeared, declared that I had in- truded into a temple, and showered forth a volley of abuse. Meer Saheb and Mojee Rain found means to pacify him, but we deemed it prudent to retreat. The fact is, one side of the first court was devoted to the worship of an idol, ensconced in a recess, but four-fifths of the building were allotted to the worldly comforts of Monsieur le Brahmin, who appeared just in time to pre- vent my obtaining a sight of a Madame or Mesdames that were probably to be found in the fourth court. We now took possession of an old tomb; and I had taken my book to while away the time till the arrival of my palkee should enable me to breakfast, when the Moonshee of the Rawaljee came to present salaam on the part of his SAMOTE. 137 master, and ask whether I would fiave a tent and break- fast sent out to me, or would visit his palace. Not having calculated upon stopping at Samote, I had no letter to its lord, and this civility was therefore perfectly voluntary. I accepted the latter alternative. A palanquin was sent, for me, and the Rawaljee's two sons met me at the gate of the palace, and, taking me by the hand, one on each side, led me across a couple of courts and up all manner of staircases to a large hall, where we found their father, a most gentlemanly kind old man, whose cordial and un- affected reception I shall ever remember with pleasure. He placed me between himself and his eldest son, and, after a few minutes' conversation, dismissing all his train, led me into a small side room, where I found a table, formed by piling one upon the other four of the little platforms which they use for the same purpose, and an excellent breakfast. There was a large brass dish of chepatties, and a number of vessels containing rice, variously dressed meat, and sweetmeats ; a large silver bowl of milk, another of sugar, and a brass lota of hot tea. There was a little silver fork with an enamelled handle, and a small pocket knife, and a funny little silver ladle, so that I was not at a loss to dispose of the viands set before me. An old Rajpoot attendant mixed the tea and milk as I wanted it, in a silver pan, applying the sweetening with his fingers. When I had well eaten, the oldRawaljee retired with his two sons, to break his own fast, having first ordered a cot into my room, upon which he advised me to rest while one of his people shampooed me ; advice that I did not neglect. "I fell asleep under the operation, and on awaking and regaining the hall, found my host giving audience to his people. He immediately rejoined me, and we had a 138 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. long conversation, in which he expressed great gratitude to the Governor-General, who, he said, had twice saved him from the destruction with which he had been threatened by Jota Ram. The Rawaljee was simply clad in white, wearing, however, some handsome jewels in his turban and in his ears. His sons, two very modest, pleasing young men of from twenty to twenty-five years of age, were very plainly dressed, each carrying a broad- sword in his hand. They are both married, and were surprised to find that I have not their advantage. Natives, not knowing how the womankind have turned the tables upon us in Europe, think it very strange to find men past the first blush of youth and still single how much more an old fellow like me ! ... " 18th. " Started before daylight, and rode a long twenty-five miles over a dreary country to Jobaer. Not liking the low mud chabootrie, I rode on and alighted under a large tamarind tree, near some Rajpoot huts, which were thronged with a large collection of decrepit old women. I waited till near three o'clock, but no palkee appeared. Faint for want of food, I applied to my escort. Mojee Ram produced some coarse sweetmeats, Meer Saheb made some chepatties of dhal, a sort of pulse seasoned with chilies, and a draught of milk and water completed the meal. I thus made the breakfast of a Rajpoot soldier in no unpicturesque bivouac, the camels reposing on one side, the horses picketed on the other, while the naked men of my escort, reclining here and there amid spears and shields and saddles, and sundry old women spinning at their wheels, completed the scene. Pushing on again, I reached the camp an hour after sunset. It was dark, but the long line of fires along the border of the lake, CAMP. 139 and the hum of many voices, bore evidence of a multi- tude that astonished my attendants. I thus went over in six days the same ground that occupied our camp, in 1831, nearly a month ; and for my bearers, who came in early the next morning, it was no bad going. The dis- tance is 200 miles! . . . " I have since performed a longer journey in the same manner, having been recalled to Calcutta after I had been three weeks with the army in the field. I left it at Sukur, and crossed the country to Agra, whence I took dawk ; and I now write, December 22nd, from Allahabad. I start again to-morrow, and shall, God willing, reach Calcutta just four months after the date of my leaving Lord William Bentinck at the hills ; in which time I shall have travelled 900 miles by sea and river, 2400 dawk, and nearly 600 on horse or camel ! " 140 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. CHAPTER VII. IN January, 1835, it appears that Lord William Ben- tinck resolved to leave India, and Major Mountain determined to return to England at the same time, and try whether the rank of Lieutenant-Colonel could be obtained for him. Writing to his brother, he says : " Lord William offered me a few days ago the appoint- ment of Assistant Adjutant- General, king's troops, for two years certain, with a very good chance of succession permanently. This would give me 1000Z. : the man who holds it is going on sick leave to the Cape. Not to be sneezed at. ... But his lordship added that he thought it would be hardly worth my while, and that I should be right to go home and try my fortune. I therefore said that, as my own hopes and wishes led homewards, and as the rank was my great object, I was glad to hear from him an opinion, which, without undervaluing the acting situation, I should consider decisive. So that nail's clenched ! " He left Calcutta on the 24th March, in the ship " Orient," and had a tedious passage of five months ; but this time was not unprofitably spent. He had a good cabin, and, having brought on board a supply of books, spent many hours of each day in reading and writing. DISAPPOINTMENT. 141 He read through several theological works ; and from these, especially Paley's works, his mind was more and more established in the faith : and in the weary monotony of the long voyage, after five years of con- tinued active employment in perpetually varied scenes, he was led to realise more than ever the hollowness of this world's interests and amusements, and to seek, with increasing earnestness, to live above the worries and vexations of daily life, and fix his heart and thoughts more constantly on the precepts and promises of the religion of Christ. On his arrival in England, Lord William Bentinck exerted himself to procure the step of rank for his aide- de-camp ; but one such step alone is usually granted, and to this the military secretary has a claim. His efforts were ineffectual, although Lord Dalhousie and Sir Colin Halkett lent their aid; and Sir Herbert Taylorwas very desirous to forward Major Mountain's wishes ; and King William, who had a kindly recol- lection of Bishop Mountain's family would have been glad to serve them. There was one constant oppo- sition, and the anxiety and disappointments were no small trial to a man of eager and sensitive tempe- rament. An attempt was made in another quarter to pro- cure him promotion, but this also failed. Colonel Oglander, who commanded the Cameronians, a high- minded and devoted soldier, whose whole soul was given to serve his God and to promote the temporal and eternal well-being of the men committed to his 142 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. charge, found his health failing, and was anxious to retire from the service. He felt that he could safely confide "his boys" to Major Mountain, who would, he knew, carry out his views and plans for their benefit ; and he agreed to retire if the command of the regiment could be ensured to him. This, however, could not be arranged; but the knowledge that such a man as Henry Oglander placed such entire confidence in his junior officer, is a striking testimony to the uprightness and con- sistent conduct of Major Mountain. Colonel Oglander retained the command of the regiment, and remained with it till the breaking out of the war with China, in 1839. He had been very ill upon going on board, but embarked with the head-quarters of the army, on board the " Marion," and did not live to land in China. His memory is gratefully cherished by the men of the Cameronians, and many of his plans for the benefit of the soldier, though scouted at the time, have since been adopted. The next two years, 1836 and 1837, were spent by Major Mountain in visiting relations and friends in England and Scotland, his home being chiefly at his brother Eobert's house, where his mother and sister were living; and, after having been for five years separated from all those whom he loved best, he fully appreciated the happiness of returning to them and to his own country. His brother, the Archdeacon of Quebec, came to England at this time, and in 1836 was consecrated DEATH OF HIS MOTHER. 143 Bishop of Montreal ; and thus the widowed mother enjoyed the delight of seeing her four sons once more around her. But this happiness was of short duration. In March, 1836, Mrs. Mountain was seized with an unusually severe attack of a malady to which she had been for some years subject ; and, after a few days of acute suffering, her gentle spirit passed to its rest in Christ. Armine was absent when she was taken ill, and when he arrived she was lying apparently uncon- scious ; and in an agony of grief, at the idea that she would never speak to him again, he threw him- self down beside her ; but his sister repeated his name loudly, and added, "He thinks you do not know him." She instantly held out her arms, exclaiming, " Not know my own darling son, who never crossed my path but in love ! " and laying her hand on his head, she added, " Grod bless my own dear Armine ! " The loss of such a mother was indeed a heavy trial. Armine had loved her with all the deep de- votion of his loving and ardent nature with all the tenderness which so peculiarly marked his character ; to her his thoughts had always turned, wherever he might be ; and with her and his sister, all his plea- sures, and all his cares had been shared. But his mind was too unselfish to dwell long upon his own sorrow, and his chief aim now was to soothe and comfort his sister, whose loss he felt was greater than his own. In July, 1836, Sir Samford Whittingham, who 144 MEMOIRS, LETTERS^ ETC. had been appointed Commander-in-Chief in the West Indies, offered him the post of Military Secretary. Writing to a friend, he says : " I must go on half-pay to take the appointment. I therefore wrote back word that I would not do so as a Major, but that, if I can obtain an unattached Lieutenant- Colonelcy, I am ready to go. I came here to ask Lord Fitzroy the question, and shall see him to-morrow. I am not anxious about it. I must get promotion in my own corps before very long, and there is not perhaps much to choose between the East and West ; yet Barbadoes is near home, and the rank as soon as possible is an object to a soldier. I shall be satisfied either way. . . . " I have seen Lord Fitzroy. He told me at once that an unattached is not to be had, and that he thought I should be wrong to sacrifice my regimental position for the staff appointment." This appointment was, therefore, gratefully de- clined. The failure of so many attempts was disappointing ; but he bore all cheerfully and unmurmuringly, always saying and feeling that there was a " Grod above all," and that all must be right in the end. One of his greatest pleasures was in the society of the Bishop of Montreal, although the numerous engagements of the latter left only short intervals of time for the enjoyment of family intercourse. The love of the two brothers was unusually deep and strong: they had not met since 1825. The bishop INFLUENCE. 145 returned to Canada in July, and they were destined never to meet again on earth. In June, 1837, Major Mountain married Jane O'Beirne, a grand-daughter of the Bishop of Meath, from whose family he had received much kindness when quartered in Ireland; and with her he sailed for Calcutta in October. On board the ship there was a young officer going out to rejoin his regiment in Bengal. Some simi- larity of feeling drew Major Mountain towards him, and they associated much during the voyage. Many years after, this gentleman wrote to Colonel Mountain, acknowledging with the deepest gratitude that to the conversations they had held on board ship, and to his influence and example, the writer owed his suc- cess in his profession, and, yet more, his hopes for eternity.* No man ever possessed a larger share of the power of influence than did Armine Mountain, and this power was constantly exerted to win the young or the wavering to the path of virtue. Numerous instances of his successful influence are known to those to whom he at times spoke of his past life ; but he was singularly diffident, and his extreme humility always made him doubt that he could have been the means of doing good to any one. But facts cannot be * The Editor has in her possession a letter from another officer, expressing the greatest gratitude to Colonel Mountain for having taught him, " amongst other lessons, not only how to command others, but to command himself." L 146 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. disbelieved, and there are many now living who would bear willing testimony to the good he effected, while the full extent of his influence will only be known in that day when " they that turn many to righteousness " shall shine u as the stars for ever and ever." He joined the Cameronians in Fort William in the beginning of February, and looked forward hopefully to the possession of domestic happiness. His pro- fessional prospects, which had at one time looked so bright, were now clouded : the friends likely to aid him had left India, and he had no immediate pros- pect of commanding his regiment. But he resolved not to despond ; he knew that everything was over- ruled by a merciful Providence, and that as he had earnestly sought the guidance of his God before he linked the fate of a young and tender girl to the wan- dering life of a soldier, so even for her all would be well. Heavy trial was, however, in store for him. A few weeks after their landing in Calcutta his fair young wife was prematurely taken ill, and died three days after giving birth to a daughter. To a man of his acute and tender feeling and de- voted attachment, this bereavement was no ordinary trial ; but no murmur ever passed his lips, nor, as he himself wrote to his brother, ever found entrance into liis heart. He had received his young wife as from the hands of God, and to Him he resigned her. His letters written at this time to his sister are full of the touching eloquence of grief. His home was deso- DEATH OF HIS WIFE. 147 late, and he was unworthy, he felt, to enjoy the happiness he had longed for ; but in the Spirit of Grod he truly said, " the Lord gave and the Lord hath taken away, blessed be the name of the Lord.'' To fulfil his duty in his profession, to watch over his motherless child and train her up to be a Christian woman, and to devote himself more faithfully to the service of the God who had so suddenly blighted his hopes of earthly happiness, were now his chief objects: but many were the bitter tears, the lonely hours, and the earnest prayers, before the victory was won, and the character, already so lovely, perfected in the fur- nace of affliction. He lived now in almost entire solitude, attending regularly to his military duties, but otherwise never leaving his lonely room except in the early dawn, when he used to ride to the spot where his young wife had been laid. A few kind friends visited him occasionally ; but he had only just returned to the place, and his grief was such as could not be shared with comparative strangers. As his child grew old enough to notice him, his greatest solace was in watching her ; but when about two years old she suffered in teething, and he re- solved to send her to England before the commence- ment of another hot season. In August, 1839, he was offered the command of a large party of recruits, who were to proceed in boats to Meerut, and, though unwilling to leave his child, he felt that the change of scene would be good for his I, 2 148 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. own health and spirits, while the additional allowances for the command would enable him to send her home in greater comfort. He therefore accepted the offered charge, and started in command of fifty boats on the 14th of August. On reaching Cawnpore, he found that the 3rd Light Dragoons had been ordered to that station, and that the recruits for this corps were to remain there ; and as these formed more than a third of his men, the detachment would cease to be a field-officer's command. It was therefore settled that he should return to Calcutta, and on the 16th of No- vember he left Cawnpore. Early in the year 1840 the war with China broke out, and Major Mountain was selected by the Go- vernor-General, Lord Auckland, to fill the post of Adjutant- General with the expeditionary force. He immediately made all the arrangements for sending his child home. The English nurse, who had tended her from her birth, was to take her to Eng- land : kind friends promised to watch over her, and, on reaching England, she was to be confided to the care of his sister. Many were the letters he wrote on the subject of his child's education ; and some extracts from one of these are here given, as they are eminently characteristic of the writer : " . . My first object, hope, and prayer is, that my daughter, so God wills she live, may grow up a faithful Christian. I have, however, my own notions on this point, and to a certain extent, at least, they should be attended to, EDUCATION OF HIS CHILD. 149 as, unless when a father is materially wrong it can answer no good end to promote difference of feeling between him and his child. I hold all Roundhead tendencies in abhor- rence ; and pretension in religion, as in other things, repugns me. I shall be thankful, most humbly thankful, to my God, if my child be as good as her mother. I shall be disgusted if she fancies herself better. I should wish her with all propriety and cheerfulness to conform to the rules of the house which she may inhabit ; but I do not wish her to be debarred, in proper time and place, from any recreation or amusement that her grandfather, my revered father, would have sanctioned, or that her mother would have partaken in ; still less to be led to condemn others for partaking in them. I hope and pray that her religion may be of the heart, one of practice, not formalism, the guide of her life, the comfort of her soul, about her path, and about her bed, the spring and moving power of her thoughts and actions, one that will not be thrown aside, as a tight corslet, if she should succeed to considerable property, and chance to marry a man whose career may lead her amidst the fascinations of the world, but that will be in all situations her stay and safeguard ! To effect this grand, first, leading object, good and regular habits from earliest infancy are doubtless important ; but I should avoid over-teaching and tasking ; should be careful not to connect the sombre or the irksome with her first ideas of God, should wish to lead her imperceptibly, cheerfully, and naturally, to look up to Him as the Author of all that is good, and the fountain of all her hopes, as her God, and the God of her fathers ; should take daily incidental occasion, in amusements as well as lessons, in a walk or drive, of producing these impressions naturally and without effort, rather than by set speeches or re- L 3 150 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. strictions. But I do not mean to undervalue the force of stated observances and appointed times, provided they be not rendered unnecessarily distasteful ; and, though prayer hereafter may and should become an habitual movement of the heart on any occasion, I regard the fixed, rooted habit of private prayer, morning and night, as being of vital importance, as the foundation and support of all the best impulses of our nature, and the check and prevention of the bad. " The next point and yet hardly the next, for it is too closely interwoven with religion to be separated, is temper! I beseech you, on my knees, to attend to this. Happiness in this world depends on temper, and perhaps salvation in the next. . . 1 am very passionate, and, though easily pacified by a kind word, am impatient and irritable, and disposed to chafe against opposition or any supposed injustice. My child may have unfortunately something of her father ; and I think nurse's indulgence may have brought it forth. . . . Upon the whole, however, I should really say, favour and affection apart, that she is a manageable, very merry, good-humoured little soul, and very affectionate. Oh ! cherish this temper ; watch it without appearing to watch it ; check at once all that is wrong, but do not let her fret or conceal. I love, I dearly love, a free, frank, loyal temper. I should be dis- tressed by reserve. I loathe dissimulation. . . . " This leads me to another characteristic of our race, a characteristic that, under proper regulation, I consider to be a high privilege, a gift of Heaven, but which, ill- regulated, becomes a curse ! I mean a high and generous tone of mind, gentlemanlike tastes, keen feelings, and quick susceptibility. As far as I have inherited any portion of this order of mind, I have made poor use of it. My EDUCATION OF HIS CHILD. 151 child may possibly inherit it from her race, I hope she may; but watch it, let not the privilege of keen and quick perception degenerate into an uneasy sensitiveness. . . . Beware of this, for mortal happiness at least hinges upon due regulation of feeling ; and where feeling is once excited principle is insufficient to control it, albeit con- scientiously guiding the conduct. " These are the first vital considerations. With regard to Christian qualities, which spring out of religion and temper, I need not say anything to you. I will only observe that I wish my child to be indulged, even now, in giving to the poor, but at the same time to be taught that giving money, which entails no personal sacrifice? is the least part of Charity the most difficult, not to speak or think ill of others. How full of the milk of human kindness were our grandmother, our mother, and her own sweet mother ! " In manner, ' from my soul I loathe all affectation/ I hate, too, primness. I hope my child will be frank and free, and natural, yet perfectly decorous, attentive to her seniors, kind to her servants and the poor, and affection- ate to her friends. . . . You may judge how much I feel in parting with my only child, and will allow for a father's anxiety. . . . Expecting to embark shortly for China, and knowing the uncertainty of human life, I have wished to provide against the event of my not living to write again, by saying now all that was uppermost in my mind regarding the education of my child. And now, may God in His mercy, whatever be in store for me, take you and her under His especial and gracious protection, through Jesus Christ our Lord." The little girl on whom so much love and thought L 4 152 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. were bestowed did not live to reach England. She died seven days after leaving Calcutta, and the news that he was childless reached the father, when worn by overwork and anxiety, at Tinghae, in September. A few sentences from his letter to his sister, on receiving intelligence of his child's death, are here inserted, instead of in the midst of his letters from China : " To tell you that I am not heart-broken, that I had not fondly hoped and trusted that, so safely embarked, in good health, her teething finished, that I had not fondly hoped and trusted that the danger was past, and that she would reach you in safety, that my only earthly solace had been in picturing your meeting and her sojourn amongst you, that, for myself, my only hope and thought and vision had not hung upon the prospect that, should life be my lot, I might see her again and ultimately give her a home, would be to tell you what is false and what you would not believe. . . . But, believe me, even in the first hour of these overwhelming tidings, I grieved for you and Robert too, and poor dear Jane ; and yet how vain ! God Vill console you and send you far better solace, other objects, other motives of thought and ac- tion " Dearest sister, I feel that I have deserved this fur- ther bitter, bitter chastisement ; that I did not bear the awful calamity of my widowhood as I ought to have done ; that I have been selfish in my sorrow. God only knows how I shall bear this further loss of my only, sweet, fair child ; but I must try. I fear myself ; but she is safe, and I must endeavour to restrain and over- come myself. DEATH OF HIS CHILD. 153 " It is a bitter thought that you never even saw her ; that the wide sea is drifting her little bones I know not whither ; that only one brief week after I had been per- mitted to embark her with so much thought, and care, and hope, and thankful confidence, my sweet child died, before she had learnt to love or even rightly know her father ; but this is weakness. God knows best. It was no doubt best for you, for her : and at 4 that day,' wherever I may be, she will surely be yielded up by the wide waters, and be numbered by her Saviour amongst the angels of God." 154 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. CHAPTER VIII. " Ship Marion,' at Sea, May, 1840. " WE embarked on the evening of the 10th April, hoping to reach Singapore in about three weeks. Our party consists of Colonel Oglander, who is destined to be our commandant, Captain Caine, A.D.C., Major Becher, deputy quarter-master-general, Major Hawkins, deputy commissary-general, Major Wilson, paymaster of the forces, Captain Moore, deputy judge-advocate-general, Dr. King, Dr. Graham, and the deputy adjutant-general. We have, moreover, twelve clerks belonging to the dif- ferent departments, a sergeant's party of the Queen's 49th, and about sixty native followers. Belonging to the ship, twenty-two Europeans, including the captain, offi- cers, and cuddy servants ; and sixty-five Lascars or native Mussulman sailors. Of these last, some are active young men, acquainted with their business ; others the veriest wretches imaginable The i Marion ' conveys all the medical stores, a proportion of the ordnance stores, and ten lacs of rupees and dollars. She is therefore of some consequence to the expedition, to say nothing of her being head-quarter ship. " Wind and tide were against us, and the authorities gave us a steamer too feeble to tug us, and it was thus the 19th April before we got clear of the sandheads. On the 28th it blew a gale, which gathered strength as HURRICANE. 155 the day advanced. While we were at dinner, consuming such viands as we could collect in their dance, a tre- mendous sea carried away our starboard-quarter boat. The barometer was falling rapidly. We were under close-reefed topsails. The captain lowered his royal and top-gallant yards, and lay the vessel to. The three close-reefed sails, about 5 P.M., split to ribbons with furious flapping and clatter, and the mizen topmast, the bare pole, bowed from sheer force of wind to such a degree that it was evident it must soon go. The fore topmast went first, however ; then the mizen ; then the main. It was now blowing a hurricane. The stern boat was lifted clean above the poop, where it hovered for a moment ; then broke loose and fell. The larboard- quarter boat was stove in ; and in the attempt to cut away the fragments, which were slashing to and fro upon the poop, Mr. Page, the third officer, and James Gerard, a fine young seaman, were carried away and seen no more. The long boat was flung from her props into the waist, knocking down the nettings, breaking away her keel, and crushing in her fall a native servant, and several sheep, to death. The jib-boom and both binnacles were carried away, and such was the force of the wind that the chief officer could only reach the wheel by creeping along the deck upon his hands and knees. The mainsail and foresail, though closely furled upon their respective yards, were now blown away and torn to pieces. Their furious clatter as they fought to break loose, the howling of the hurricane, the raging of the sea, the fearful slashing and banging of the topmasts, rigging, blocks, and cross-trees, which were all hanging over the side, the bawling of the officers and the cries of the crew, formed altogether a scene to which it is diffi- 156 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. cult to do justice in description. At length, about seven, there was a lull, so sudden, so complete, that it was rather portentous than hopeful. In about a quarter of an hour more the voice of the hurricane was heard anew. It had been blowing all day from the north-east. About half-past seven the wind suddenly shifted to the south : the gallant ship, thus taken aback, could not rise quick enough ; a wave struck her stern, stove in the deadlights, broke the skylight, and sent, amid a crash of shivered glass, a rushing, foaming torrent forward, that inundated the cuddy. How much longer the < Marion's ' hull could have weathered the storm it may be hard to say, but it pleased God to abate its power about eight o'clock P. M., and by about an hour before midnight it was only blow- ing a moderate gale. The hurricane lasted about three hours, but the ship was a wreck within an hour after the first rent of the topsails. During all this time three of our party had been lying, still asleep, on their respective couches ; C. and H. were dead- sick from the violence of the motion. Colonel Oglander, who was very feeble from long illness, sat composedly holding on with his only three fingers to the cuddy table, to which his chair was lashed, while Graham, Moore, and I, watched the pro- gress of the storm. . . . My cabin on the main deck was completely flooded, and, moreover, the steam and heat below was insufferable. I spent the rest of the night? therefore, on a chair in the cuddy ; sleep was out of the question. I thought of my little Jeanie, and trusted in God that the Scotia would be visited with no such storms. . . . " At daylight on the morning of the 29th, the poor c Marion ' presented a woful spectacle. Evidence to the struggle she had fought with the waves was borne by HURRICANE. 157 the splintered stumps of the three topmasts, just above their respective yards, which had been lowered when the sails were close-reefed. The force of the wind had thus snapped teak spars sixteen inches in diameter, not only unencumbered, but supported by stays and rigging. Three masts, with all their rigging, blocks, and cross- trees, were still hanging over the starboard side, swing- ing about fearfully as the ship rolled from side to side. Her decks were heaped with spars, blocks, and fragments of all sorts, and the native crew were huddled together in miserable groups wherever they could find shelter from the driving rain, and safety from the swinging of the loose blocks and spars. In this condition we remained the whole of that day and the following night ; for the sea was still so high and the wind so strong, that it was impossible to attempt anything. Opinions were divided as to the expediency of attempting to return to Calcutta, which, if effected, would have thrown us out of all chance of joining the fleet at Singapore. I therefore opposed the idea of return ; and as it was luckily the captain's interest to keep his ship employed as a transport, he made up his mind to endeavour to refit so far as to con- tinue the voyage to Penang or Singapore. We were enabled on the 30th to commence operations. It cost us ten days' hard work to make the ship so far manageable that the captain would venture near the land ; but by the evening of the 8th May we had rigged jury-masts to the fore and mizen, and set up a new topmast to the main, and steered for the Andamans. " May 23. " The ' Conway ' frigate overtook us yesterday ; and, as we had no boat to send to her, she sent to us. No Brevet : 158 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. for the last nine years various circumstances have led me from time to time to expect my rank of Lieut.- Colonel, when something has turned up to prevent it. I should be pretty well used to disappointment by this time, and, in sooth, the prize has been losing value every year, and is of small moment now. But there is this im- portant circumstance to the force ; Colonel Burrell will retain the command, and Colonel, no longer General, Oglander will resume his regimental command. In the evening the ( Conway ' sent us two boats, of one of which we were to retain the use as far as Singapore ; in the other, Osborne and Lord Jocelyn appeared : the former announced his appointment as my assistant " There is great fear of our being too late. The Com- modore, Sir Gordon Bremer, went on to the rendezvous in the ' Madagascar ' steamer a fortnight ago. He has orders to take the Bogue or Bocca Tigris ; and if he has gone on from Singapore without us, it will be a mortifi- cation the more cruel to me, that, but for my staff ap- pointment, I should have been with my regiment. . . . " May 28. " A steamer hove in sight, took us in tow, and brought us on shore (Singapore) this afternoon. The fleet sails to-morrow : we have just nicked it, but it is sharp work, for we are to be transhipped into a steamer ; and to begin with a new chief, Colonel Burrell, enter on a new business, change our ship-traps, offices, etc., and arrange for others in twenty-four hours, is no trifling matter. " God bless you and my little one." " War Steamer * Queen,' June 4, 1840. " I believe I have said that the steamer which hove in SINGAPORE. 159 sight on the 28th took us in tow ; on the 29th we sighted Singapore flagstaff. Nothing can be more beautiful than the entrance into the strait : numerous islands rise on all sides from the sea, which is like a great lake, or rather succession of lakes. Excepting two, which are only long strips of yellow sand, all these islands are mag- nificently wooded to the water's edge : here and there a bare hill shows that the settler's fire or the woodman's axe has been at work ; but these interruptions to the mass of forest rather add to, than detract from, the general effect. On the Singapore hand, some of the hill-sides are cultivated entirely for pine-apples ; and a single cottage may be seen here and there peeping through the trees. An occasional boat glides from this little bay, while the mat sail of another disappears in that inlet : still, in the wide range of view, the traces of human life are com- paratively few ; stillness is the character of the scene, and the desire to explore is perpetually excited. In the afternoon we rounded the last island ; and Singapore roads, with the fleet and town, lay before us. Lieutenant Harrison, of the ' Larne,' came off to meet us ; and from him we learnt that the Commodore meant to sail the next day, and that we were to be transferred to this steamer. Colonel Oglander and Captain Caine repaired to the 26th ships. I had to wait on Brigadier Burrell, and went on shore with him to wait on the Commodore. The town, above which there is a very pretty hill bearing the Governor's house and flagstaff, has some good build- ings, and looks well from the water. Besides the 74 and frigates, the steamers and transports, there were several Chinese junks, monstrous queer fellows, at anchor in the roads ; and with the various boats, native and European, coming to and fro, the scene was very animating 160 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. The fleet sailed the next day, as soon as the breeze sprang up. My returns and letters were despatched, and a few hasty arrangements made by the evening, when I came on board ; and on Saturday 31st we steamed up to the fleet in a very few hours. " From the little I saw, Singapore appeared a very pretty place : scarcely twenty-one years have elapsed since Sir Stamford Raffles first selected it as a half-way house to China, and it now contains 35,000 inhabitants, and is daily increasing in prosperity and population. Still the part I saw has not altogether lost the village cha- racter ; and the clean soil, bright foliage, white buildings, hills, and sea-shore, harmonise well together. It is un- lucky that I did not come down with the 26th ; they were nearly three weeks at Penang, and arrived a fort- night before us at Singapore. I am, however, too thank- ful to have saved my distance, and be here before the work begins, to growl over the loss of past agremens, or over present inconveniences Yesterday, we went on board the ( Rohomany,' Colonel Oglander's ship, that is, the brigadier and I. I was distressed to find him so ill that he would only see me " June 5. " Having heard from the Commodore that Colonel Oglander was worse, upon his ship's approaching yester- day I went on board, and spent the day there. The Colonel was a little better again, and made an effort to appear more so when I went into his cabin, talking of landing at Macao, and performing his duty ; but he sank again. The chaplain of the ' Wellesley,' who had been sent for the preceding evening, was still on board, and MACAO. 161 administered the Sacrament to the invalid, Dr. Bell, and myself. " " June 22. "Well, I have actually been in China, and walked about, and stared, and we are at anchor off Tyloochoo, or some such place ; but all in order On the 21st, at daybreak, we moved on, and anchored about 9 A.M. in Macao. The entrance to the roads is very pretty : islands rise in all directions, leaving clear channels between them. They appeared to be for the most part rocky and bare of wood, and uninhabited. But the sea was alive : not less, I should think, than 200 large fish- ing boats were within sight, all under sail, and generally in pairs ; and in the roads before us, we could discern a steamer, a man-of-war, and several merchant vessels. This morning we got up our steam and made for the Commodore. As we steamed in on one side the ' Larne sailed in, under a pressure of canvass, on the other, and we anchored at the same moment, one on either side of the ' Wellesley.' We are anxiously looking for letters and orders." " Tinghae-huen, August 8, 1340. "... The feeling that the scene gave me, on entering the harbour the first day, was indescribable. Before the steamer struck, we passed the war junks, which had come out very valiantly to meet us, and were drawn up along the mouth of an opening between the islands. They did not venture to arrest our progress, but they followed us into harbour, passed successively close under the ' Wellesley's ' bows, and took up position in line ahead of us, covering the suburb. So far the Chinese admiral deserves credit. He did not provoke aggression ; M 162 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. and his conduct betrayed no fear, whatever he may have felt, and was calculated to justify him with his own go- vernment and give confidence to the Islanders. He was killed afterwards on board his junk by the ' WellesleyV fire. " But the scene these junks, just what you see on rice-paper drawings, the Chinese army with a sort of armour and tunics, and all the showy old-time equipment carried me back in imagination to the times of Frois- sart. It seemed exactly as if the subjects of his old prints had assumed life, and substance, and colour, and were moving and acting before me, unconscious of the march of the world through centuries, and of all modern usage, invention, or improvement. " There were the flowing standards to every half-dozen men, the cumbrous equipment, the attempt at fierce display, the queer weapons and insignia of all sorts ; ancKthen the junks, with their huge mat sails, their eyes and tiger heads, and high, elaborately painted sterns and bluff prows ! On the other hand, the hills around were cultivated with a care and neatness much more Euro- pean than anything we had been accustomed to see in India ; and the aspect of the suburb, excepting only a temple or two, with up-pointing eaves, as well as the cottages dispersed about the hills, brought England to my thoughts. The sensations thus produced were such as no previous scene in my life of wandering ever excited in the same way. " The afternoons of the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th, were spent in a Barrack (a very curious and rich temple) in the midst of the 18th Eoyal Irish. I had a little hole without any outlet, except into a sort of court, for office and bedroom; and this to share with Sir H. Darell; ar.d TINGHAE. 163 at night such swarms of mosquitos, that I was soon like a man just up from the small-pox. Nothing to eat either ; but my servant made free with the monks' tea, which I swallowed in quantities ; and it kept me alive. " On the 6th we had taken possession of the city, but we did not move into it till the 9th. Had we perse- vered in the first orders for keeping in the people and their property, I have no doubt but that, after the first panic was over, the shops would have reopened. Those who had fled would have returned to their houses, and the population have been brought to take us as their masters, in place of the Mandarins The inter- preters came forward with the maxim, ' Better let the town be gutted than coerce the people ; ' so free egress was given ! The consequence has been that everything of value has been taken out and literally carried away before our forbearing eyes, and conveyed into the enemy's country by junks, everything, to the very furniture; and the people have followed their property. So here we are, having captured a large and wealthy town in a deserted place, and unable to get for our money even a little tea, sugar, or common oil of the coarsest quality : and we cannot get a labourer to work for us out of the thousands that were here a month ago. I presume such a thing was never before heard of in the annals of war. . . . The people themselves do not comprehend it. They say, ' You murder us one minute, and overcoax us the next.' " " Tinghae, Chusan, August 8. " We have been placed here in a position wholly new. There is no government secretariat or officer of any M 2 164 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. sort, and the Brigadier, now Governor, has no secretary, military, civil, or private : thus my order-book, besides containing all the orders for the troops, and all the detail of duty, as there is no brigade-major, is the only means of publishing anything, in fact, the Government Gazette. Then the correspondence with the commissariat and naval authorities, with returns, copies of orders, &c., and letters from Calcutta, has made a mass of business that my four clerks have had hard work to get through ; while I have been for ever at my desk, and, with the anxiety to forget nothing and reply to everybody, and the continual interruptions at all hours from officers of the army and navy, each on his own business, have been fairly worn and worried out of the little flesh I had before, never having an hour to myself from daylight till night. " About ten days ago, however, the Chinese, having kidnapped our Compendor, parties were sent out to en- deavour to recover him ; and I got leave to go with the third, wishing to see something of the island, and fancy- ing there was a considerable some said a walled town on the coast, which, if resistance were offered, I could take by uniting the three parties, and get some credit, and perhaps recover the Compendor, which was a great object to us, as he was an active man, and the only Chinese who had come forward to serve us. " Well, just at the moment of starting, the governor's pony, a little wild brute that I had borrowed for the occasion, broke from my servant. Away he went ; it was useless to attempt to catch him. I had then two days' most fatiguing walk on foot, under a broiling sun, up and down hills ; and, on the second night, a steamer having come round to us, with Captain Elliot, the Guide-plenipo., he NIGHT ON THE ROCKS. 16-5 offered to take us off, which, with my harassed men, I was very glad of; but he lost the way, and, after wan- dering till late at night, amid ploughed fields and rocks, we at last slid down a rough Alpine pass to a little cove, where the boats were waiting. I, of course, waited to the last, to see the men off; butlo ! when the last boat returned for us, the tide had receded so far, that the boat could neither come in, nor we get to her ; so the Plenipo. and I and about fourteen men had nothing for it but to sleep on the wet rocks. We had nothing to eat, and 1 had had nothing all day but a very bad breakfast, no cloak, and the only bottle of wine we had, had been sent on board with the servants. At another time I should rather have enjoyed it; but, having been weakened by the prevailing diarrhoea, I was dead beat, and, the duty done, sunk down on the rocks, wet and sharp as they were, and would not have moved, scarcely to save my life ; and thus I slept sound. The Plenipo. laid down beside me, observing, ' that the stones were very good stones in their way, but a bad substitute for a feather- bed.' " In the morning, with the full tide, we got off to the steamer, and returned here without accident of any sort to the men, or the loss of a firelock. We traced the kid- nappers to their village, and, finding that the Compendor had been conveyed away to Ningpo, brought in hostages. One of these, in return for my civility in not handcuffing him, ran from the guard, and got a crack in the leg from a shot, that broke it. The men made a bier with their iirelocks, and brought the wounded man off three miles in the dark, over ground no easy walking in daylight, for which they deserve great credit. Captain Elliot was so struck with the extraordinary conduct of the men M 3 166 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. of the 26th, in bringing this man safe through that night's work, that he begged Colonel Burrell to issue an order of thanks, which he promised to do, but put off and off till it was too late. The fellow is doing well, and is now a prisoner in my temple. The fatigue and exposure brought on an increase of my complaint, and, though I never struck work, I was but a poor devil for many days after our return ; but, thank God, I am getting better daily, and able to eat when I can get anything j which is not always ! "Colonel Oglander, who died June 22nd, at sea, was buried a few days ago in a spot that he would have loved in his life-time. The regiment is encamped on a hill within the city walls, behind the governor's house, which seems to have been reserved as a sort of park for the chief Mandarin. On a point of this hill, under a tree, commanding a noble view of the harbour and surrounding islands, the grave was made. The chaplain of the 'Melville' read the service, and the funeral was conducted with great decorum and propriety. He was a great loss to the service, and to this expedition especially. .... But so was the will of God!" By the death of Colonel Oglander, Major Mountain became second Lieut. -Colonel of the Caraeronians. " Tinghae, December 4, 1840. "Since I wrote to you, the truce with Ningpo has been declared, and the Admiral has left us to hold conference with Kishen, the imperial plenipotentiary, at Canton. " Supplies are abundant, and the health of the force is improving ; but we have laid 500 poor fellows here CI1USAN. 167 under the sod, victims of inglorious disease, of whom 201 were Cameronians. The interpreters are sceptical as to the prospect of peace with China ; the Admiral, who ought to know best, is sanguine, and the troops are told off to transports ready for embarkation. If a peace be effected on decent terms, that will satisfy the public, it may get us out of the scrape, and be for the best ; and all will be glad to get away from Chusan ! But if it come to blows again, though we are ready and not down- hearted, we shall miss the poor fellows we have lost, nearly a seventh of our whole force, and it will cost twice the number of men and twice the money to effect, next year, what we might easily have effected this. . . . " With far less loss than we have suffered from disease, I should say that we might have taken and destroyed one after the other all the principal towns upon the coast, and, after taking the little fort at the mouth of the " O Peiho, I do not consider it at all shown that we might not have pushed on to Pekin. . At all events, if we had thrown up an entrenched camp there, with the fleet to back us, all China could not have driven us from it ; and they would have yielded anything to get us away. "If the object was to humble the Chinese Court, this might have been effected by our little force, with the fleet as assailant, in less time than this ; but we have been playing at war instead of waging it, which, if diplomacy succeeds, may suit the views of our Govern- ment ; but if it fails, I shall expect to see our omissions and mismanagements severely handled. "I have been over to Chin-hae in a steamer. We could not land, but I was glad to have a view of the place. It is at the mouth of the Ningpo river, an im- w 4 1G8 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. portant post that we might easily take and as easily hold. Since that I have been completely round this island of Chusan in a steamer with Captain Bourchier. My object was to inspect detachments that we have at two different points, and to see a third point, which, in event of re- sumed hostilities, must be occupied. We visited, en passant, the island and temple of Pootoo, the lona of China, which is within our boundary. The trip was satisfactory to me in respect to information gained, as well as agreeable and interesting." Early in 1841 Sir Hugh (rough arrived in China, and took command of the Expeditionary Force, and brighter days opened upon the army. " March 23, 1841. " I think I mentioned our return from Whampoa to the Bocca Tigris on the 9th. On the 10th I landed with Sir Hugh Gough on the little island of North Wan- tong, in which alone the forts have not been destroyed, and which it is intended to occupy for the present. On the 12th we landed on the Amonghoy side, examined the forts, now levelled with the ground, and made a complete reconnaissance of the neighbourhood, clearly ascertaining that Amonghoy is an island, and that a small body of troops might easily have taken all the batteries of the Bocca on this side in rear, without any assistance from the ships of war. The General transferred his head- quarters to this ship (the ' Marion ') on our return from the shore. The next morning we were surprised by intelli- gence that all was war again, and preparations were made for taking up all the effective men of the military force, together with the marines and the few men we IGNORANCE OF THE CHINESE COURT. 169 have of the royal artillery, again to Canton. So soon as the preparations were made, the movement was counter- manded, and we are still lying upon our oars. Captain Elliot, meanwhile, has been up at Canton ; all the forts and defences of the Broadway River and in the immediate vicinity of Canton have been carried by the steamers and boats of the men-of-war, and we are really in igno- rance from hour to hour what is to be done. Captain Elliot, however, as he passed down the day before yester- day, told us that we were all to fall back on Hong-Kong, leaving of course a garrison and two ships of war at North Wantong ; that, having made a settlement at the former place, we were then to return to the northward and strike a blow somewhere, with a view to bringing the Chinese Court to terms ; whether at Amoy, in the Yang-sze-Kiang, or Peiho, is uncertain. At present the light frigates are actually anchored off the factories at Canton. The river and all its branches are ours, and it has only rested with us to occupy Canton itself. This Captain Elliot has forborne to do, and the trade is again open, but open only by the consent of the local autho- rities. The emperor has ordered poor Kishen to be sent up to Pekin in a cage. The fall of the forts is attributed to corruption on his part, and not to our power and their helplessness. In fact, the system of mystification has been carried so far, and the ignorance and arrogance of the Chinese Court are so great, that I confess, for my part, I have given up all hope of a speedy settlement of our quarrel. ..... I am very decidedly of opinion that we have only now begun to do what we ought to have done a year ago. In fact, after a loss of 1200 men and an immense expenditure of money, we came back to the Canton river to negotiate, and after concluding the basis 170 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. of a treaty and sending part of our force away, found out that the Chinese commissioner had no authority to treat, and that it was only a trick on their part to get the fleet away from the Peiho and induce us to evacuate Chusan " Dearest C., I thank you for your kind sympathy, and the anxiety you have felt for and with me. I feel indeed the vanity of earthly sorrow as well as of earthly happiness and earthly hopes. I grieve over my inability to act upon the truths that I acknowledge and feel ; but I strive and I pray, and I hope that I have made some little progress in attaining to more resignation, and more hope for another world, if not for this." " Macao, March 29, 1841. "We remained at the Bocca Tigris until the 25th. Sir Hugh made two more reconnaissances to the west- ward, and we had somewhat tough walks, but obtained a very satisfactory acquaintance with the neighbourhood ; but while we were thus amused, Captain Elliot was waging a little war of his own up the river. The navy had it all their own way, and Canton was again within our grasp, and again relinquished upon the promise of the local authorities to trade. These operations were the result partly of accident, and the navy followed them up with indefatigable gallantry ; but whether a combined movement on a greater scale and a more fixed and de- .cided plan of operation would not have produced a far greater impression, and whether it would not have tended to a speedier settlement if we had landed the troops and taken up a position beyond the town upon the heights, retaining it without plundering it, until the Court should CANTON. 171 come to terms, arc questions which you may hear of in England "On the 25th I started in a steamer with Sir Hugh Gough and the Commodore from the Bocca for Canton. Among the results of the recent naval operations, has been the discovery of two additional channels of the river between Whampoa and Canton, each of them larger than the only one along Whampoa Island hitherto known tq Europeans. We proceeded up one of these. On ap- proaching Canton we met our old friend the 'Herald,' now reconverted into a frigate ; then came to a barricade right across the river, with a fort upon a small island in the centre, now occupied by marines. . . . We came next to the 'Modeste,' then to the 'Hyacinth,' and then we were close upon the suburb of Canton, anchored, got into our boats, rowed off, and landed at the factory, where the British flag flies guarded by marines. " The river is a noble one, and the population of the waters, the vast crowd of boats of every size and fanciful form, some highly carved and ornamented, and contain- ing suites of highly decorated apartments, some moored side by side in streets, others moving to and fro, presented a singular and most striking and characteristic scene. Behind the town there is a range of jagged heights, partially wooded and partially occupied by forti- fications and other buildings. The opposite shore is covered with buildings, batteries, and wharves ; and the view, which extends up and down the river, is a noble one "Many of the houses have at top the funniest little sentry-boxes you can imagine, some merely of mat, others more ornamented. We got a peep into Hog Lane ; but it was not thought advisable to penetrate further into the 172 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. city. On re-embarking in our boats, a crowd of some thousand naked shining pates lined the narrow wharf of the factory, close jammed together like the heads in the background of an old picture. The eyes, and so much of the countenances as was discernible, were all precisely alike, and a more singular spectacle I never beheld. " We returned down the innermost of the new chan- nels, by far the finest of all as to volume of water and scenery. . . . We resumed our route the next morning, and, having joined the fleet at the Bocca Tigris for an hour or two, continued in the steamer to this place, which we reached late at night on the 26th. It is a very pretty and singular place, half Portuguese, half Chinese. The hills are capped with convents and churches ; and the Praga ground, which runs around the bay in a semi- circle, is lined with a range of handsome buildings, the residence of English or other merchants. In the midst of them is a Mandarin station, and the shore is lined with the singular little egg-boats, piloted by Chinese girls ; and Chinese fishing-boats of the queerest construc- tion lie further out in the bay " We are, I believe, to fall back on Hong-Kong, found a settlement there, leaving the advanced squadron near Canton and a small garrison on North Wantong in the centre of the Bocca, and then go off to the north again if the Court will not come to terms. I have no time to say a word, as I intended, of my own feelings, for Sir Hugh makes terrible use of my fingers. We are in the sin- gular position of being at peace with Canton and at war with China. How long it will last, or what will be the result, God alone knows. " .... I am desolate at heart ; still I strive strive against myself, and endeavour to do my duty in my HONG-KONG. 173 office. It is in some sort gratifying to see so much of this world, and I should thank God for the opportunities, but the zest is gone. . . . " When I took leave of my landlord at Chusan, I gave him two or three dollars besides his rent, an old half- starved pony, some articles of furniture that I had brought to the house, and a Bible in Chinese, all of which he gladly accepted, the last not with least willingness. The confidence latterly in Chusan was so great, that any officer might take what he fancied from a shop, and the owner having made his bargain, which was always done dearly enough, was perfectly satisfied that his money was safe. The shop people and the lower orders were, I believe, sorry to lose us. ... Albeit we may leave China inglorious, and the English may still be subject to insults in the course of trade, I am yet disposed to consider this expedition as the era whence the regeneration of China and ultimate prevalence of the true Faith may be dated." " Transport * Marion," off Hong-Kong, April 24, 1841. " We arrived here on the 8th, and here we have been ever since, doing nothing. Captain Elliot, without whom nothing can be done and no location made, has been at Canton, absorbed in the opening of the trade, but we expect him in a few days. I have been all round the island of Hong-Kong with Sir Hugh, who is active as a youngster, and loves a scramble. He has given us a breathing occasionally on shore up and down the hills, so that we have the carte du pays pretty well in our num- skulls. Hong- Kong is a singularly bare, rugged island, consisting of a single precipitous ridge, rising abruptly from the sea. A few equally precipitous spurs strike off 174 MEMOIRS, LETTERS^ ETC. north and south from the central ridge, forming small bays and harbours ; but these harbours, though offering excellent shelter to small craft, would none of them answer our purpose, and the southern side, though the preferable aspect, is out of the question This an- chorage, which, though there is an entrance at either end, is completely land-locked, will hold a couple of hundred sail, and is, the seamen say, one of the finest harbours in the world. . . . Opposite the island, a very singular tongue of the main, consisting of a succession of rocky ridges and ravines, runs out into the harbour, and the occupation of this tongue, or at least of such portion of it as commands the anchorage, is essential to secure possession. The question then is, whether the town and cantonment shall be upon the tongue or upon the shore of a bay of the island. ... I am a tongue-ite ; but the difficulties lie in the supply of water and in the extent of fortification required for the land line. The advantages are a more open and apparently healthier site, upon a sin- gularly dry soil, backed by the argument that at all events you must occupy the tongue. Captain Elliot alone can decide the point, and lo ! he is here From the tops of the hills the view is grand as hill and sea and endless islands can make it ; but there is no wood, and there are no visible habitations, and nothing can be so barren as the general aspect of the land, whether of the main or the islands ; and the endless hills are furrowed, scooped, and indented, as if they had just escaped from a vast flood that had worn their sides and washed away every particle of soil. So here we are ! But as to the China question albeit that by truce with the local authorities you will get your teas from Canton I see no prospect of the Court coming to terms unless we re- HONG-KONG. 175 sume the aggressive with activity and decision. But to garrison Wan ton g, found a new settlement here, and pro- ceed back again to the north on a fresh expedition with our dwindled force, is a puzzler ; in fact, we must wait for reinforcements, although a small force actively em- ployed in aggressive operations may, if well handled, do anything against the Chinese as they now are. But they are a stout, hardy race, by no means deficient in personal courage, and if we continue to throw away our advan- tages, will no doubt in time learn to use their strength. Indeed, even Sir Hugh's arrival cannot restore the hopes with which we started, or efface the disappointment of the past year. . . . ." " May, 1841. " Such a turmoil ! Writing till late last night, writing again since early dawn ! . . . . There has been a court of inquiry on the Chusan sickness. a mighty unpleasant and delicate affair, being connected with matters upon which in fact 's conduct is inquired into ; and the court, after having me three days before them, have called for all manner of papers and returns On the 25th of last month, Elliot paid us a flying visit from Macao, proposed and settled upon a combined expedition to Amoy, and flew back again the same evening. We meanwhile have been busy in preparations to start on the 12th And now we find he has gone to Canton, and when he will be back it will be hard to say and we may not move north without him." " Head-quarters, ship * Marion/ June 5. " Though by no means insensible to the advantages or the responsibility of my present office, I have always felt 176 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. the desire to lead ray men in the field. I mentioned this to Sir Hugh not long after he joined us ; his remark that as D. A. Gr. I must necessarily be in the midst of every- thing, while as commanding a weak regiment I might be left behind, was unanswerable. We were prepared for Amoy, and the poor 26th was to be left behind to hold Hong-Kong ; then all at once came the counter order, and with it the order to move on Canton with the whole force My post is laborious. The toil of conveying orders, under a tropical sun, and under the necessity of haste, on foot, up and down rugged hills and across paddy fields, is more than, but for the strength which I asked and found, I could have gone through. None were so badly off for shelter against sun and rain at Yang-Kang-Tai as the head-quarter people, General included. But who could complain ? Sir Hugh was always on the alert, always on foot day and night, never thought of himself in anything ; and during the approach to, and halt in front of, the heights, though he was careful to put the men under cover, he was always exposed himself, eagerly reconnoitring the ground, for which he has a capital eye. The matchlock balls whizzed over and around him, cannon balls ploughed up the paddy fields within a few paces of him ; he never seemed to notice them in the least, and never once deviated from his erect posture : many others ducked without scruple, when they saw a shot coming or passed a spot on which a heavy fire was kept up. I dare say, at another time, I might not have thought it pleasant to be shot at ; but I had now one absorbing anxiety this was to catch the plan of movements laid down in an under tone, clearly understand orders, and intelligibly convey them On the 30th, when poor Beclier expired in the field from EXPOSURE TO HEAT. 177 over exertion, the heat of the sun was perfectly intole- rable ; there was not a breath of air, not a particle of shade. He fell near me, and never spoke afterwards. Just before this, I recollect, while Sir Hugh was sitting on a bank, the heat was such I could not sit, but was obliged to walk up and down, tired as I was. An artillery officer gave me a little brandy and water, which revived me (for I was much distressed), and afterwards the thunder storm afforded a very complete and refresh- ing bath "The Chinese do not want for pluck, and are very powerful men ; they only want leading and discipline and a little experience in European warfare : but they cannot stand a sustained fire of musketry ; and with such a leader as Sir Hugh, I should have no hesitation in marching anywhere through the country with a small force of infantry, so long as we could be provisioned. All that I have seen during these eight days has only confirmed my previous opinion of what we might have done last year, well handled : but it was a bitter dis- appointment, just at the moment of commencing the assault sure of carrying the walls, according to all human certainty, within half an hour, and with little loss to be checked; and fancy the critical position in which placed us, a victorious body ready for any- thing, but a mere handful, a town containing a million of inhabitants and at least 50,000 troops in our front, a hostile unknown country in our rear, and our communi- cation with the landing places in such a state that no one could move without an escort ! This little force, too, after great fatigue, bivouacking in alternate furnace- like sun and heavy rain, in an aguish country, was almost certain to suffer sickness if detained beyond the N 178 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. period of excitement. .... However, there's a God above all, and it was His will that Canton should be spared And this time the Chinese liked too little the sight of the red coats and blue jackets above their town and the British flag on their ports, to break faith. It is something to have earned 6,000,000 of dollars in eight days, and to have shown them that we can go where we like." " Macao, June 22, 1841. "We came here on the 15th, to bury Sir Le Fleming Senhouse, who died the very morning that the < Blen- heim,' in which he was, arrived at Hong-Kong I have been ill since the 13th, with some return of Chusan fever " With regard to China, under its own exclusive system, it might remain another hundred years in its present state. A people so utterly without God as the Chinese I never beheld. They are not without good qualities ; but all their civilisation, all their industry, all their ingenuity is directed wholly and solely to the furtherance of the bodily existence, without an idea beyond. God will choose His own time and His own instruments for shaking a system which has thriven in exclusion so wonderfully. The Emperor claims to be a sort of God, but the belly is the people's god. Still I admit the paternal system has its good side : what could have existed so long without some dash of good ? I still think that the time has come when Heaven proposes to shake the Chinese autocracy. That this will be effected peaceably by preaching, is not consistent with all we know of God's proceedings with other people ; the sword will probably be called in. For my part, my opinion remains unshaken, that, if we had hit hard at first, it HONG-KONG. 179 would have been humanity in the end If the door be once opened, there is a vast field here ; hundreds of millions, without any fixed religion, without any of the prejudices of caste, and with no deep-rooted national usages as in India, to remove at the outset." To Sir H. Verney, Bart. "Hong-Kong Bay, July 8th, 1841. " Events have only confirmed the opinions which I en- tertained from the first, and I cannot help thinking that our armament last year, in its health and vigour, well- handled, was amply sufficient to have done anything, and might easily have brought the Chinese Court to our terms. ... I admire the navy they are gallant fellows, know their work well, and do it well, and their peculiar system answers admirably in their own body; but it never answers to put a military force under the navy. . . . It w^as precisely with and by the soldiers, that the effective blows might have been struck ; for the navy can do no more than destroy a seaport, they can neither hold a town nor undertake an operation on shore : and the Chinese acknowledge our supremacy at sea ; it was by defeating their troops successively at several points, and then appearing with them off the Peiho, that the mysti- ' fication and humbug which hangs like a cloud over the Court of Pekin might have been dispersed, and the Emperor's eyes opened to the real state of the case. . . . The Chinese, who are diplomatists, equally shrewd and unprincipled, outwit us at every turn. ... If I thought there were any prospect of concluding a stable and honourable peace, I should rejoice ; for we are all sick of this amphibious work, and I, for my part, am anxious to N 2 180 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. get back to India, to be in time for the Punjab or Nepal business : but I feel persuaded that it is only a ruse on the part of the Chinese, who know that we are going north, and want to delay us, and that the upshot will be our farther loss of time, so precious at this already ad- vanced period of the monsoon. ... A more cruel calumny than has appeared in the papers, and reached Lord Hill, respecting the conduct of the troops at Chusan, never was uttered : on the capture, some men of one of the regiments, having been quartered in houses which turned out to be full of the liquor called Shumshu, dis- tilled at Chusan, got drunk ; but, on the whole, I will be bound to say that more moderation was never shown by soldiers at the capture of a suburb and city, than was shown by our troops, and the conduct of the three queen's regiments, and, indeed, of the troops at large, was re- markably good during the whole period of our occupancy of the island. " The eight days before Canton were rather pretty work ; and if our enfeebled diminished force could thus do their business, what might they not have done last year, in their strength and vigour, under such a man as Sir Hugh Gough ; but we were angry at the time when Elliot's despatch stopped us at the moment of escalade. And I still think, though I was against firing the town, as was Sir Hugh, that the effect of our success would have been greater if the escalade had gone on, and we had taken possession of the hill within the works, as well as those without. " Of the Chinese I must tell you that I have no despicable opinion ; they do not want for pluck ; igno- rant as they are of war, their patriarchal system is a source of some domestic good qualities, and they are an THE CHINESE. 181 industrious, ingenious, sturdy race, naturally inclined to peace and trade. But they seem to live for this world alone ; the support of the animal seems to be their only object. I cannot make out that they have any religion at all, though they have a number of temples ; and inas- much as they appear wholly given to earthly objects, I hold them inferior to the Mussulmans, and even to the Hindoos. But they have no prejudices of caste, and no deep-rooted national habits, that would oppose at the outset the introduction of Christianity. I have from the first been inclined to consider our Expedition as the epoch of better days for China, and to believe, however unworthy the instruments, that this is the commence- ment of the ultimate conversion of a race, which has been for so many ages a distinct portion of the human family. . ." To his Sister. " And so we have taken Amoy, and I am now, this 30th day of August, 1841, writing to you in the citadel thereof ! It was a mighty easy business too easy by half for honour and glory. On Saturday, the 20th, the fleet sailed from Hong-Kong, and we anchored outside. We got under way next morning, and on the afternoon of the 25th came dashing into Amoy harbour with a beautiful breeze. It was a lovely evening, and a really grand sight. The fleet consists of two line-of-battle ships, two heavy frigates, two 18-gun sloops, two 16-gun brigs, 10 two-gun brigs, four armed steamers, and twenty-two transports. Fancy these under full sail, and all pro- gressing majestically and direct towards the land over the greatly ruffled surface of the expanse of waters ! The leading ships passed the batteries on the islands at the N 3 182 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. mouth of the harbour without a shot being fired. As the next passed, a solitary gun was fired from an island on our left, and five or six from the Amoy batteries ; but no return was made, and the whole fleet anchored within the harbour. The next morning I accompanied the General on board the flag-ship, but, being sent back after a brief look round, to give some orders, was not until afterwards made acquainted with the plan of attack. The orders were, to be prepared for landing. The har- bour of Amoy is formed, on one side, by the island of the same name, which was defended by a multitude of bat- teries ; one of these was armed with 100 guns. A string of islands, more or less fortified, form the limits of the bay on the other side ; and beside several others, there was an 18-gun battery upon the point bearing directly upon the harbour. About noon the steamers and seventy- fours and the smaller vessels proceeded to take up their stations. The * Blonde' and ' Druid' were to engage the batteries at Corouson, the two seventy-fours the heavy batteries nearest the city, while the ' Pylades ' and ' Co- lumbine ' amused the batteries along the shore. The Chinese opened a heavy fire before the ships were placed ; and after the seventy-fours gave forth their thunder, the enemy continued to fire against them for nearly two hours, and were never entirely silenced until we landed and took the batteries in flank. " Two of the steamers had been allotted for the landing of the troops. Their decks were covered with as many men as they could hold, and the boats of the transports, also full of men, were towed astern. The detachment of the 26th, a company of artillery, and the marines landed at Corouson from the boats of their own transports and men-of-war. Head quarters, with the 49th, 18th, and CAPTURE OF AMOY. 183 Sappers, landed on Amoy island, leaving the 55th to follow so soon as the steamers could go back for them. We effected the landing without casualty, on a fine sandy beach ; a wall was before us, connecting the long line of batteries with the rocky heights in the rear. Of two gates, one was open, and we wanted to make a rush for it; but the General said no. Presently the enemy brought a gun into the gateway, fired one shot right at us, shut the gate, and manned the wall. The General had sent on two companies of the 18th, under Major Tomlinson, to make a lodgment under cover, and protect the attack he contemplated on the gate ; but not content with the Major's position, he sent me to amend jt, and we moved on, under some fire from the walls, to the spot which I had pointed out. At this moment the captain of our steamer with a few seamen made a rush upon the hill, and got on the wall. The soldiers could not stand this, and rushed on ; and I, doubting a little in my own mind whether the General would not be angry, went on too, clambered over the wall with the help of a soldier whom I had helped up first, and, taking two men, ran down to the gate, removed some sacks that were against it, unbarred it, and opened it for the troops who were advancing. Major Tomlinson meanwhile was pursuing the flying enemy. The two columns continued to advance the 18th passing the gate which I had opened, and the 49th clambering over the ramparts near the sea ; and not a Chinaman, save a few killed and wounded and a few flying stragglers, was now to be seen. We passed on through the open space and took up a position on the heights. . . As soon as the troops had formed, the advance was again sounded ; and we proceeded in two columns, and, with some little skir- mishing, occupied the range of rocky heights above the N 4 184 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. large town and citadel of Amoy. It was now dark; and the troops bivouacked on the hills. The next morning we more clearly saw the town extending below us, and in the centre of it an inner fortified town like a citadel, from a mile to a mile and a half in circumference. With a glass I could trace the circuit of the walls, and could see no cannon, nor could I see any troops within. . . After the departure of the Admiral, Sir Hugh desired me to take an escort and go down with Mr. Gutzlaff to look out for a place to quarter a company in the town, as the householders had petitioned for it, to keep order. " I merely took a corporal of the 49th and a Sapper ; and when old Gutzlaff had done writing, we proceeded to the town. The first stall in the first street arrested Gutz- laff' s attention. He had promised to buy pears for Wilson, and having bought them, wanted somebody to escort the bearer thereof into the castle ; so I sent back the Euro- pean corporal, and we went on with the Sapper. All the shops, except the fruit stalls, were shut ; but we saw numbers of people and met with no incivility. Here was rather a remarkable result of one day's work. No Euro- pean before, probably, was ever permitted to put his foot near the town ; but we were masters, and the Chinese authorities and soldiery being withdrawn, the people were perfectly inoffensive. . . ." " Ningpo, Oct. 25, 1841. "... We left Amoy, having to settle Chinhae and Ningpo, and then recapture Chusan for winter quarters. ... On the 25th we reached the fleet at Just-in-the-way, beyond Chusan ; but the weather continuing unfavourable, it was thought best to change the plan of operations, and attack Chusan first. I hardly knew the place again, so TAKING OF NINGPO. 185 astounding had been the labours of the Chinese in strengthening the defences. We took them in flank, however, and after a sharpish brush carried all before us and entered the place, the Chinese troops utterly dis- persing. All the old Chusanites had remained on board the i Marion ;' I was therefore Shew-the-way General, and, before night, had made tolerably good use of my legs. Some of the shops were opened the next day, and most of them before we left. The 8th was employed in a reconnaissance of Chinhae, after which we returned to Chusan, and came back with part of the fleet to this coast the next day. On the 10th we landed ; and that day's work was, as a military operation, the prettiest and smartest thing we have had. The Chinese fire was very heavy; and several small parties of them, after the masses had fled, stood till every man was shot. Our loss, how- ever, was fortunately small ; theirs very great. It never fell to my lot before to see so many dead, or so many frightful wounds. The killed lay about in groups in all directions, both on the hills and beach, and in the streets of the town and suburbs on the opposite side. All this I saw with comparative indifference ; but on the 12th I found in the street, before one of the gates, a pretty young girl, well clad, lying dead : she had been shot through the body, and, it is to be hoped, by a chance shot as she was escaping. Her curious pinched feet were naked : this was a grievous sight, and not less so that which presented itself a few yards further on an old woman mortally wounded, and her son weeping over her. . . . There are not, at this moment, above 600 privates available for duty, exclusive of Artillery and Sappers, and regimental deductions ; and with these I have to find 186 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. guards and patrols for a city which, with its suburbs, is said to contain 300,000 souls " One of the greatest evils is that the mob begin to plunder as soon as we have driven out the mandarins and the troops, and the inhabitants suffer more from their own people than they do from us " So far as we know, the religion of the Chinese is childish in the extreme, and they are generally very in- different about it. Every town, every village, it is true, abounds with Joss-houses, upon which large sums* of money have been spent ; but they would rather seem to be looked upon as a sort of public halls than places of worship, and the priests are a despised class. But, so far as we have seen, I should say that, whatever may be in particular instances the oppression and cruelty of the Mandarins, China is a remarkably well governed, and a prosperous and happy country. The people are better clothed I mean the poor than in many European countries ; and I have nowhere seen any sign of the scarcity of food of which writers on China say so much. It is true that earth, sea, and river are laid under con- tribution, and many things, both animal and vegetable, are eaten which are not thought of elsewhere ; but, in the aggregate, we have found plenty prevailing every- where food cheap and abundant You have heard that the Chinese have no circulating medium but cash, a coin composed of brass and copper, about the size of a farthing, with a hole in the centre to admit of its being strung. The banking-houses here are curious places. I saw in one 150,000 dollars' worth of cash, piled up to a height of above five feet, and occupying as much space as a large stack of fire-wood. Silver is used in larger sales, and is exchanged in the blocks called NINGPO. 187 Sycee, according to weight : but gold does not appear to be known, except as an article of merchandise, and to be chiefly used in the gilding of temples and statues, and in embroidery "Nov. 30, 1841. " We have hitherto been living in a very make-shift way, and in a building consisting of lath and plaster ; but now we are about to move into a house which is really quite a curiosity. It is the residence not of a Mandarin, but of a weal thy citizen who has fled, and presents nothing to the street but a long line of blank brick wall. But within there is court upon court, rooms and passages without end, and I suppose that the whole gave accommo- dation to about 400 people. It is the Chinese custom for sons and their families, and often daughters and their husbands, to live all under one roof with the papa and grandpapa ; and as each man has probably more than one wife, and as they have a host of retainers and servants, the dwelling of a wealthy Chinese is a little town in itself. In the house of which I speak, all the rooms were crowded with furniture, but furniture so unlike what one has seen everywhere else, that it is difficult to give an idea of it. In every room there are one, two, or three beds : each bed is a distinct apartment by itself, having a verandah furnished with a chair, a little wardrobe ; and these and their ornaments are perfectly unique, and very pretty. . . ." " Ningpo, March, 1842. " On the 4th the General went to Chusan with Sir William Parker, on the strength of information that Commissioner Yih King had given up all present inten- 188 "* MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. tions of attack. I was left behind, which I did not like at the time, but am now very glad of. " On the 4th and 5th all was quiet. . . . On the 6th and 7th, reports became warlike again, and Colonel Morris, the senior officer on the spot, asked me to make a reconnais- sance, which we did on the 8th, for several miles in the direction of Tse-kee, but saw nothing. On our return, a young corporal of the 49th came breathless to tell us that a mail had arrived, and that Colonel Morris and I were Companions of the Bath. ... On the night of the 9th I was called up by a report of fire in the town, and, having got the garrison on the qui vive, sallied forth to look for the fire, and on reaching the east gate, upwards of a mile from my house, heard to my astonishment that the south gate was in possession of the enemy. I hastened then to make arrangements with Colonel Morris, and returned to get Colonel Montgomerie, whom I had met moving his light guns, round the rampart. We found the south gate already recovered by a party of the 49th, and proceeded to the west gate, providentially at the very moment of a fresh attack upon it in great force. That gate was without a gun ; but those so opportunely brought up opened at Once, and attacked the advancing column. We sallied then, and met them in a narrow street. The head of the enemy's thousands met our handful of men ; and in a few minutes the street was choked with a pile of slain, extend- ing hip -deep for about thirty yards. We followed up the pursuit for seven miles, inflicting a great deal of loss upon the retreating enemy, and returned. The General's order for following with 300 men, for the attack on Ta-Shun, reached me on the llth. He had, however, heard of matters here, and arrived soon afterwards himself. . . . I was out with Sir Hugh on the 14th ; and at eve we de- STATE OF THE TROOPS. 189 cided to move the next day on Tse-kee, though we did not half believe that the fellows were really there. We found them, however, and gave them a tolerably good dressing. It became a regular chase after the first brush, during which the Chinese stood well ; and their killed were scattered over the country for miles round. Our loss was very small. . . . The 17th we returned to Ningpo. Sir Hugh, having sent to Amoy for a small reinforcement, proposes waiting for it to march again against Yih King ; but whether the Chinese will suffer us to be quiet, remains to be seen. They are flocking round us, and we are ready for them ; but being so very weak, it would hardly be advisable for us to march further inland without the little reinforcement expected, and with which we shall have little more than 2000 men of all ranks and descriptions. The report of the great loss on the Chinese side and the small loss on ours, upon all occasions, will appear strange to people in England, and almost incredible. The fact is, their arms are bad, and they fire ill, and, having stood well for awhile, give way to our rush, and are then shot like hares in all directions. The slaughter of fugitives is un- pleasant ; but we are such a handful in the face of so wide a country and so large a force, that we should be swept away if we did not read our enemy a sharp lesson when- ever we come in contact: but our General is very strict about sparing the country, and the consequence is that the people remain neutral. I don't think that a much finer little force than this ever existed. The men are in capital wind and heart ready for everything, and afraid of nothing, and well in hand. I was with the 18th on the evening of the 15th, when a stupid old woman, with her no feet and big stick, thought proper to totter across the field, right in the view of our fire. I called to the men 190 MEMOIRS, LETTEKS, ETC. not to hurt her ; and she not only escaped, but was the means of saving several soldiers from biting the dust, as, from fear of hitting her, our people forbore to fire." " Chusan, April 24, 1841. "I left Ningpowith Sir Hugh on the 21st, but did not reach this harbour till the 22nd Chusan is very much improved ; and if we retain the island permanently, I think it will become a very pretty place, and by no means unhealthy ; but the difficulty of reaching it during the north- east monsoon, which prevails for half the year, will ever be a drawback The Chinese seem, for the present, to have given over fighting, but have redoubled their efforts at kidnapping and poisoning. Three men, one a marine and the others belonging to the Artillery, were carried off in one day, not long before we left Ningpo ; and so clever are they, that we have never been able to trace the robbers. Their plan of kidnapping their own people was discovered by accident not long ago. All the filth of the city is carried out in boats daily ; and these boats being full of this liquid manure, and not very agreeable neighbours, were always allowed to pass the water-gates at once. A few days ago, the man sculling one of these, by some accident, drove the boat against the gate with so much force as to throw him off his balance, and uncover a little locker behind the manure, in which the sentry seeing something that excited his suspicion, called his officer, who found a Chinaman belonging to our police bound neck, hand, and foot, and gagged, and stuffed into a place scarce big enough to hold a dead pig. The officer made the boatman prisoner, and, liberating the other, put a stick into his hand, with which he gave his whilom jailer a most tremendous mauling. CHAPOO. 191 Mr. Gutzlaff was very eager for me to hang this boatman, who confessed that he had previously carried off in the same manner seven of the Chinese friendly to us, that he had no further hand in it than sculling them out, for which he was paid by the gang that seized them. I would have hung him, had I been General ; but as Sir Hugh was absent, and I was not even senior officer on the spot, I could not oblige Gutzlaff." On the 18th of May Sir Hugh G-ough attacked and took Chapoo. During the action, observing a Joss- house obstinately defended, he desired Colonel Moun- tain to attack it with a party of the 18th Eoyal Irish. Here Colonel Tomlinson fell mortally wounded, and Colonel Mountain was struck by three musket-balls : his wounds were at first pronounced dangerous by the medical men ; but before tbe despatches were sent off this report was changed for " severe," but six months was mentioned as the probable time he would be confined to his couch. He recovered, however, more speedily than had been expected, and shared in the taking of Chinkiangfoo early in August, though with his six wounds still open. His patient endurance and cheerful resigna- tion under bodily suffering no doubt tended to his recovery, whilst they drew forth the admiration of those who nursed him. An officer, writing to Colonel Mountain's sister, says, i( His wounds were received in making a gallant rush into a large building that was defended with great obstinacy by the enemy." 192 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. We now return to Colonel Mountain's letter to his sister, dated June, 1842. " It has been mortifying to me, dearest, to be wounded at the commencement of an interesting campaign, when we are expecting large reinforcements, and it was bitter to me, having been present in every action, skirmish, and reconnaissance since Sir Hugh joined the force, to see the troops land at Woosung without me ; but though such feelings are natural, I do not forget how great cause I have for deepest, warmest thankfulness, and, to show this cause, I shall advert to my wounds, only premising that I was actually engaged with a Tartar soldier, who made a rush at me, at the time I received the fire of the matchlock-men on my flank. Beside the three balls that struck me, three more passed through my havresack, which I wore under my left arm. Of the former, one hit me in the back, near the spine, furrowed deep into the muscles, but ran over the bone, and came out on the other side of it. Another hit me on the left side, and passed out again in front, just under the lowest rib. The third struck me on the hip, ran down my thigh, and came out just above the back of the knee. . . . The doctors say too (and it needs not to be a surgeon to per- ceive it) that a very slight deviation in the direction of any one of these balls might either have killed me on the spot, or left me a cripple for life ! whereas, by the mercy of God, after eighteen days and nights on my back, and twelve more sitting up a little by degrees, I am now able to creep up on deck, eat and drink, read, and write a little, as you perceive ! . . . " However little life may promise, however sorrow and bereavement may have seared the relish and the zest of CHAPOO. 193 existence here, life spared, to all who are not fit to meet their Maker, is infinite mercy ; but life spared without permanent maiming or any abiding injury, is still sweeter mercy ! I have, therefore, entered into this notice of my wounds, because I would invite you, and those who still recollect and love me, to join with me in thanks to God, through Christ, with the prayer that I may use the re- mainder of a life thus spared better than I have the years that are gone ! " Poor Tomlinson was killed a few minutes before I was hit, and nearly on the same spot. . . . He was a plain, straightforward English soldier, an honest, gallant fellow, much beloved in his regiment " Poor Captain Campbell was a good soldier, . . . and liked by all who knew him. He and I were conveyed together on the afternoon of the 18th to the hospital- ship. I, being allowed at my own request to remain with the force, was removed on the 21st to my own cabin in this ship, . . . while he was necessarily sent with the worst cases to Chusan, where he died in a few days. . . . " 23rd June. " Sir Hugh just returned from Shanghae. The troops never pulled a trigger, so that I have lost nothing in the way of active service, while I have, thank God, continued to progress towards fitness for all duty. . . . " 25th. " I have begun work again, and plunged at once into such a load of business, that I have not had time to get my wounds dressed " Some months after this, Colonel Mountain's sister o 194 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. went one day to visit a bedridden old woman, a com- parative stranger. As she rose to leave the house, the old woman asked about her brother, saying : " An old neighbour of mine had a letter from a young man in the marines, who was all the while with Colonel Mountain ; and he said there was such a grief when he was wounded, for they feared he was gone, and every man cried, for they loved and respected him, he was so good to the men." To Sir Henry Verney, Bart. " Ching-Keang-foo, July 26, 1842. " John Bull proportions merit by loss, but I can tell you this, that if we have done a good deal with a few men and trifling loss, it is to be attributed in a great degree to the nerve and confidence with which Sir Hugh Gough has led on his men, rushing on the enemy's flank or breaking through his centre, and deciding the day before many others (even men of name) would have ventured to advance. The Chinese are robust, muscular fellows, and no cowards, the Tartars desperate ; but neither are well commanded or acquainted with European warfare. Having had, however, experience of three of them, I am inclined to suppose that a Tartar bullet is not a whit softer than a French one. " Ching-Keang-foo fell on the 21st. Contrary to the usual custom of the Chinese, who generally make a vast show, the Tartar garrison kept quiet and concealed ; and so bad was the information derived through our inter- preters, that up to the moment of attack Sir Hugh expected no opposition. The Tartars, however, had made up their minds to fight desperately for their homes, and TAKING OF CHING-KEANG-FOO. 195 did so. After we had blown open the outer gate, and unexpectedly met Schoedde's brigade, which had carried the body of the place that officer having very gallantly and judiciously availed himself of his discretionary power to convert his diversion to the North into a real attack we were met by a large body of Tartars, who opened a destructive fire upon us from some enclosures near their parade ground, and they were not driven off without some loss. Collinson, of the 18th, and Gibbons, of the 49th, two excellent officers, who have been with us from the starting of the expedition, fell here. "At length, finding the struggle hopeless, they set to and murdered their families, cutting their wives' throats, and throwing their children down wells, and then, in many cases, committed suicide. You cannot imagine a more frightful scene. The Tartars, unlike the Chinese, who herd in large houses, live in low cottages laid out cantonment-wise. Each man able to bear arms is a soldier, and has his arms in his dwelling ; but each di- vision of houses is provided with a common stable for their ponies, and an arsenal furnished with spare saddles and bridles, bows and arrows in huge chests, helmets, match-locks, &c. The panic occasioned has been such that all the respectable Chinese have left the place, as well as the few remaining Tartars " To his Sister. " August 8, 1842. "A more pitiable scene than the gates of Ching-Keang- foo presented for several days after the capture, has perhaps seldom been witnessed. The storming of the town, the blowing in of the west gate, the struggles o 2 196 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. within the walls, the frightful murders in the Tartar city, the continual fires, some lit by us, some by '.the Tartars in their fury, some by the population in thirst for plunder, completed the panic of the people, who were already excited by the Tartar commander's having shut the gates previous to our arrival and denied them egress. Sir Hugh was very unwilling to coerce them, and gave orders that free egress and ingress should be given, and no molestation offered to the peaceable inhabitants. . . . The whole population poured out, from dawn to dark, for several days, in one continuous stream. There were to be seen females of every age and degree, from the time- worn cripple to the infant at the breast ; many a weeping mother, staggering under the weight of a couple of frighted children ; . . . . many, young and old, evidently unaccustomed to go abroad, tottering forth under a sun at 140, where? to seek a precarious shelter in the country and subsist on charity, in many cases to die by the wayside ! Amongst this throng of Chinese women, scarcely able to support themselves on their cramped feet, were seen the few Tartar women and children that escaped massacre by their own males ; they were easily distinguished by their peculiar features, and yet more by their having feet of the natural size " As this vast multitude streamed forth, Chinese country people of the lower orders slipt in, and, joining the lowest populace, commenced sacking the place. . . . In a few days Ching-Keang was completely gutted and destroyed. The owners having fled, there was nothing to oppose the plunderers but bolts and bars, and of these they got rid in the most systematic manner, collecting silently by hundreds before the building destined for sack, and then with united strength forcing it and carry- CHING-KEANG-FOO. 1 97 ing off the booty. . . . .' To stop the plunder and protect the town was impossible. The attempt would only have harassed the troops to death under a sun fully as hot as in India " On the 23rd the General had ordered a party of 300 men to go into the Tartar city at daylight, intending to accompany them himself. Not being quite well, however, he sent me. After some difficulty, we found our way into it. It is not divided in this place by any wall from the Chinese portion of the town, but is easily distin- guished, the streets being all straight and at right angles, instead of labyrinth-like, and the houses all of one, in- stead of two or more stories. ... I stumbled upon a large public office, consisting of many courts, with guard-houses recently deserted in each court ; and in the rooms that had been once occupied by the head-man we found two chests of Sycee silver. Having secured the treasure, we set fire to the place. . . . After this was done, an officer pointed out to me a door in a corner, doubly padlocked. We forced it. It appeared to be a prison, and contained only a few old cupboards : on opening them, however, they were found divided into pigeon-holes, with a block of Sycee silver wrapped up in paper in each hole. As the fire was gaining upon us, I could only get this out by forming a line of Sepoys and handing out the silver thus into the outer court, and so we succeeded in clearing the place of its treasure. Going on further, I came to a very characteristic arsenal. In the front court there was stabling for many horses, and several excellent ponies were still tied up to their mangers. The centre building was full of saddles, bridles, helmets, bows, and arrows, clothing, and various arms ; and in an arm-chair in the midst sat one old Tartar, with milk-white mustachios, in o 3 198 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. white dress, and bareheaded. He took not the slightest notice of us. I caused the old man to be led out, the best ponies to be secured, and the rest turned adrift. We then brought some of the straw into the armoury and set fire to it, and all was soon in a blaze. As we were leaving the place, an officer called my attention to a well in the outer court. It was full of young Tartar girls, recently drowned. The two upper ones were comely young women, apparently of the higher class, with handsome gold ear- rings in their ears, and their hair neatly dressed. Re- turning to the Tartar city that same evening with a smaller party, we came upon another and more extensive stable with many ponies. The adjoining buildings were full of long chests filled with bows and most beautiful arrows ; these being set fire to, made a magnificent bon- fire. I was thus guilty of three of the many fires that took place in unhappy Ching-Keang, and felt some horror at my progress in skilful incendiarism. But we could not leave all these arms to be employed again in taking the lives of our own people It was necessary to make an example of the Tartar town, though we would gladly have spared the women and children and the pri- vate houses ; but their own ruthless fathers and brothers murdered them in the first instance, and then either effected their own escape secretly and joined the force at Nankin, or committed suicide. " In mentioning the attack made upon us within the city on the 21st, I omitted to add, that, after we had dispersed the Tartars, and were progressing with somewhat heavy heart at our own loss, I observed two Tartar soldiers walking under a wall with a large tank on their left, at some distance from us. Our leading men fired, and I called out to cease firing, as I thought I saw a woman ; CHING-KEANG-FOO. 199 and presently a line of women and children, following the men, were visible. We fired no more, but the women forced their children's heads under, the men per- formed this office for the women, and then ducked them- selves ; and so the whole party was drowned ! We were on the rampart, and too far off to interfere ; and, not speaking the language, no interference would have availed perhaps none in any event, as this wholesale immolation would appear to spring more from a feeling of disgrace attached to defeat than from alarm, at least as far as the men are concerned. . . . "13th. Off Nankin. "I was a good deal knocked up for several days after we re-embarked at Ching-Keang-foo : but heaven is kind ; the delays were favourable to me ; and though still far from well when we landed here on the 1 1th, two days' work on foot under a burning sun have done me good. . . We are now in this position : one brigade is at Ching-Keang, forty-five miles from hence, one brigade still on board ship ; the remaining brigade and horse artillery landed with us on the llth, and took up a capital position east of the city. The foot artillery and guns have since been landed to reinforce that position, at which Lord Saltoun commands. Further operations have been arrested by the arrival of Imperial Commissioners, who appear to have power to accede to our terms. If so, well ; if not, a few hours will put us in possession of Nankin. . . . " 14th. " To-day the Plenipo. has sent to request the General to stay hostilities. They agree to our terms ; the full powers to do so only arrived last night from Pekin, in o 4 200 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. consequence of the Emperor's hearing of the fall of Ching- Keang-foo. The fate of this city, though dreadful in itself, has, as I thought at the time it would, proved a fortunate event, and led to peace." To Sir Harry Verney, Bart. " Nanking, August 29, 1842. "I have just returned from seeing the treaty signed and sealed on board the 'Cornwallis.' It was an inte- resting ceremony, and certainly the high Mandarins are very polished men. " There is no mistake this time, I imagine, as the Com- missioners have received and shown to Sir Henry the Emperor's very gracious concurrence ; very glad in truth he is, I fancy, to get out of the scrape. On the Chinese side, Keizing, a relation of the Emperor's, Elepoo (the cabinet minister who was degraded last year for favouring us, and has been restored to favour), and New- keen, the viceroy of the two Kiang provinces, signed ; on our side, Sir Henry Pottinger. "Malcolm will go home with the treaty for the Queen's signature, as soon as the formal ratification of the ver- milion pencil shall be received from Pekin. " We had at the meeting, beside a lot of inferior Man- darins, the old Tartar General, a very fine old fellow, and Shoo, the chief civil Mandarin, whom we ousted from Chusan last year. He appeared to owe us no grudge for the unceremonious expulsion, but enjoyed the cherry- brandy and cakes exceedingly. " To see, however, a crowd of Mandarins in their cum- brous boots, long petticoats, and conical caps, with their distinctive balls and peacock feathers, like beings of SIGNING OF THE TREATY. 201 another planet, mingling in amity on the quarter-deck of a British ship, with our military and naval officers, was a sight novel and striking, which led the mind to future visions of God's purposes, and to the hope that the day was an era of blessing to China, and to our own country also, being chosen as a means of blessing to a new world." To his Sister. " Head-quarter ship ' Marion,' approaching Chusan, " October, 1842. "A mail came in a day or two ago, and brought me the news of the failure of my agents in Calcutta. . . I have reason to believe that I lose about 6COO rupees, and per- haps the whole of my earnings ; but what is gone, is gone. I can lose neither more nor less than God wills ; and He can give me, if He pleases, twice as much to- morrow. I do not grieve, therefore, about the matter, though, as my nest-egg had been earned somewhat hardly, it is not altogether pleasant to see it wasted. . . I look forward with pleasure to returning to India. In a few days more our work here will be done : we then go to Hong-Kong, and, after about ten days there, to Bengal, when I hope nothing will prevent my taking the Camero- nians in tow, and marching them up the country. " Formosa Channel, November, 1842. " On our visit to Ningpo, we found it not only rebuilt and swarming with life, but positively a better and gayer- looking place than we found it in October, 1841. The Chinese are a wonderful and singularly elastic people. . . . "You suppose the Chinese to be slaves. Any man of any rank may be bambooed, it is true, or beheaded by the Em- 202 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. peror ; and similar power is exercised by Mandarins of the highest rank ; but I imagine the instances are rare as regards the middling classes. Their manners are remark- able for an independent ease, that, but for its exceeding good-humour, would have savoured of impudence : and I should say that China was a well-governed country, that the police was admirable, that the people enjoy, upon the whole, great plenty and general security ! Bookmakers will tell you a different story ; but, so far as our three years 1 residence in the country visiting the coast of various provinces, taking possession of various towns, and pene- trating in one province fifty miles, in another 450 into the interior could enable us to judge, I believe there is hardly an officer of any experience or reflection in the expedition who will not say as I do " Of the English missionaries I know nothing There have been, and no doubt are, eminent and excellent men amongst them ; and though the very air is mercantile at Macao, I think it probable that there, as well as at Singapore and Malacca, the seed is sown, which in God's own time will bear fruit. But there is a class of men in China to whom, however mistaken in their belief, we cannot refuse respect, the Roman Catholic missionaries, men who, in the guise of natives, live in the interior, un- known to the government, in hourly danger of their lives, subsisting upon the precarious contributions of their followers. What may be the extent of their work, I have no means of judging ; but the fact that some threescore are scattered through the country, proves that they have some followers, and the further fact of their remaining unharmed, because unknown to their enemies, shows that these followers are sincere. They are chiefly Frenchmen ; but I met a couple who were Spaniards, one in native MISSIONARIES. 203 dress, whose air and manner at first deceived me, but, on a second glance, his grey eye and thick beard betrayed him to be not Chinese. At Canton there is Dr. Parker, the American surgeon-missionary, an excellent man and first- rate practitioner, who has devoted himself to the cause, and gets at the souls of the Chinese by curing their bodies. Why the Church of England is last in the field, I know not. . . . " A subscription for a Church of England place of worship at Hong-Kong was circulated some months ago, to which Sir Henry Pottinger promised a donation equal to the amount subscribed, so soon as the pleasure of Government should be known as to the retention of Hong- Kong : and so the matter lay dormant, until the other day the navy chaplains set a second subscription a going for a temporary building for divine service. So now, I hope, they will have the means of congregating for that purpose. It is not altogether as it should be, that, when we are first in commerce, we should be last in acknow- ledgment of the God who gives us our prosperity. I speak of public acknowledgment. God knows best who are inwardly most His own ! " To Sir H. Verney, Bart. " At Sea, proceeding to Singapore, " December 30th, 1842. " A happy new-year to you, my dear Verney, and many returns with blessing ! 1842 is near the last gasp, and, looking to the successful termination of the China war, and to what we have just heard from Afghanistan, may be considered, I trust, as a fortunate year for England. " You will hear of the outbreak of the Canton mob, which detained us some days, as Sir Hugh had run up 204 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. for a last look, while preparations for final departure were going on at Hong-Kong. We chanced to arrive the day after the fire, and found the merchants and the populace in a state of excitement, the former, indeed, in alarm for their throats and their purses ! We could not, therefore, decently leave them, until, on the sixth day, a miserable little schooner having arrived, and all being quiet, Sir Hugh took her up to return, leaving the steamer, for the satisfaction of the merchants, as a protection to the remaining factories. The Commander-in-Chief of the land forces was two days on board the schooner, huddled with nine other officers into a small cabin, where the littlest fellow amongst us could not stand, and on mighty short commons to boot ! The plenipo. seems to think that the outbreak will not affect the treaty, and deemed it unnecessary to detain the force, which I rejoiced at. It is very certain that there is a strong party at Canton opposed to the terms of the treaty, which, by opening ports to the northward, strikes a blow at their monopoly, and that the mob in the late riot was acting on a preconcerted plan under the instigation of influential persons ; but I believe the Chinese government has had enough of war, and though Sir Henry has, no doubt, a hard task before him in carrying out the details of the treaty, I do not think a fresh rupture at all likely. The Quang-keep, the officer next in rank to the Viceroy, who waited on Sir Hugh, and whom I was deputed to receive, told me that the government much regretted the outrage, and was prepared to consider the question of reparation to the sufferers. This delay at Canton caused me to be dreadfully hurried on our return to Hong-Kong, which we left on the 20th, and I have been so busy ever since, that I have had no time to enjoy the yacht-sailing CONSIDERATION FOR OTHERS. 205 with this favourable monsoon over these well-behaved seas ! We are approaching Singapore, when Sir Hugh Gough proposes to break up the returning force, and proceed himself to Calcutta in the f Endymion,' touching at Malacca, Penang, and Moulmein ; I shall, Deo volente, accompany him " When Sir Hugh Gough was preparing the de- spatches announcing the conclusion of the war, he offered to send Colonel Mountain to England with them. This would probably have secured to him the rank of full Colonel. Several reasons, however, in- duced him to decline the General's offer. One was the possibility of active service in India, if he returned to that country with his regiment, and also the wish to serve a young friend, whom Sir Hugh then selected to carry home the despatches as a reward for his services during the war. Colonel Mountain left China with Sir Hugh Gough in November 1842, hoping to take command of the 26th regiment in Calcutta, and march with them up the country. On reaching Singapore, he heard that they were to return to England, and a little instance of his self-denying kindness to others may be here mentioned. He had long wished to visit Egypt, and particularly disliked the confinement and monotony of a long voyage, and he had three times already sailed round the Cape. He accordingly obtained leave from Sir Jasper Nicolls to precede his regiment, and made arrangements to return to England by the overland route. On arriving at Calcutta, however, 206 MEMOIRS, LETTERS^ ETC. he found, as he says in a letter to a friend, " that the second Lieutenant-Colonel wanted leave and wished to be relieved from the command of the regiment, and as I was so soon to oust him at any rate, I made up my mind to indulge him," and throwing up his own plans, he determined to go home with the Cameronians. He reached Fort William early in 1843. Prepara- tions were rapidly made to embark the men, and in three weeks they were ready to sail. During this interval, Sir Hugh (rough heard pri- vately from England that he was to be nominated Commander-in-Chief in India. He immediately pro- posed, in the most flattering manner, that, if this report proved true, Colonel Mountain should become his Military Secretary. This appointment was in every way suited to Colonel Mountain, and his personal attachment to Sir Hugh would have made it very agreeable to him; but the previous evening a nephew of Sir Hugh (rough's had confided to him his desire to fill this situation, and Colonel Mountain, ever considering the interest of others before his own, thanked the Greneral for his kindness, but declined his offer on the grounds that Jie did not wish to interfere with his nephew's pros- pects. Sir Hugh kindly replied, "Well, there's time enough to decide; I am not Commander-in-Chief yet." The next mail from England brought the Gazette EMBARKS FOR ENGLAND. 207 appointing Colonel Mountain Deputy Adjutant-Ge- neral at Madras. Sir Hugh Gough strongly urged his acceptance of this appointment, renewing his offer of the Military Secretaryship in the event of his own nomination to the command of the army in India. But as Colonel Mountain had resolved to refuse Sir Hugh's offer for the reasons already mentioned, he had no wish to remain in India in a less influential position ; and, again gratefully declining the General's kindness, he embarked with the head-quarters of the 26th regiment for England. On reaching St. Helena, a newspaper, containing a notice of the sudden death of his sister, Mrs. Arabin, was put into Colonel Mountain's hand. He had not seen this sister for fourteen years, but his was not a mind on which absence had any effect in lessening affection. He had looked forward to meeting his sister as one of the pleasures left for him in England, and the announcement of her death, as with his own blighted hopes, he was approaching his own country, was a heavy blow, and, as he said, " a further bitter lesson of the vanity of all human hopes and plans." 208 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. CHAPTEK IX. IN June, 1843, the "Queen" arrived at Chatham with the head-quarters of the Cameronians. Colonel Mountain's great desire now was to see his men quietly settled in their barracks, and prevent the excesses which might naturally arise on the return to their own country of a regiment fresh from active service and composed chiefly of very young men, who, hurriedly levied, had been sent out, almost entirely undisciplined, to fill the vacancies caused by the ravages of disease and the casualties of war. His next aim was to secure for the men such trifling memorials of their visit to China and presents to their friends, as they had brought from the seat of war. He obtained an order that the soldiers' bag- gage should pass, untouched and free, through the Custom House ; and, leaving his own property to the mercy of the officials, by which he suffered consider- able loss, he saw these orders fulfilled, and then went to London in the hope of securing a good quarter for his regiment. Colonel Mountain still held the situation of De- puty Adjutant-General at Madras, to which the Duke of Wellington had appointed him ; and a most kind letter from Sir Hugh Gough again renewed the offer DUKE OF WELLINGTON'S OPINION. 209 of the Military Secretaryship ; but he had made up his mind not to stand in the way of his friend, and for the third time declined Sir Hugh's kind offer ; and, throwing up his appointment at Madras, he determined to devote himself to the command of his regiment. It may here be mentioned that the Duke of Wellington, on looking over the list of officers who had served in China, put his finger on Colonel Moun- tain's name, saying, " This man has done his work remarkably well ; I should like to do something for him." When the Brevet for the China War was published, an officer of the 26th was staying with friends who were totally unacquainted with Colonel Mountain. A gentleman, who afterwards became closely con- nected with him, entered the room, saying: "The Brevet is out, here it is." " Oh ! " exclaimed the officer, " what has Mountain got ? Of course he is at the head of all." His name was not mentioned in the Gazette, and great was the disappointment to all who had served with him in China, and who had witnessed his un- wearied energy in the midst of sorrow and sickness, his unceasing labour, his care for the welfare of the army, and his calm undaunted bravery in the field. An officer of high rank, writing two years after this time, mentions being in company with a large number of military men, who one and all spoke of their great disappointment that Mountain had not received for China the reward he so justly merited ; p 210 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. and they said this was the feeling of the whole army. The only reason assigned for the omission of his name in the list of promotions was that he had only lately attained the rank of Lieutenant-Colonel, and that it was not in accordance with the custom of the service to give the rank of full Colonel so soon ; it not being considered that he had been thirteen years a Major. That he himself keenly felt the omission, none, who knew his acutely sensitive nature, will for a moment doubt. He had worked zealously and well, had sacrificed health and strength in the service of his country ; and when heartbroken by domestic affliction, and worn down by illness and the want of proper food, he had toiled, by night as well as by day, to secure the success of the expedition ; and he had looked, as a chivalrous soldier must do, for some acknowledgment from his sovereign and his country, that his conduct was approved. But he would not sue for what he felt he had justly earned, and no one ever heard him utter a complaint, though to some of his trusted friends he occasionally spoke of his dis- appointment. He took this, as he uniformly did every trial, as overruled by a higher hand, and patiently submitted to the mortification. His time was now much occupied ; and when the order came for the Cameronians to proceed to Edin- THE CAMERONIANS. 211 burgh he had not yet seen any of those relations who were anxiously expecting him. He then confided his regiment to the next in command, and took a fortnight's leave to visit his brothers and sister, and rejoined the Cameronians shortly after their arrival in Edinburgh. The pleasure of his friends in again seeing him was sadly marred by his careworn appearance. He had suffered severely in mind and body since leaving England in 1837 ; and anxiety and sorrow had left traces that were not easily to be effaced; but they had also left marks which showed that the chastening hand of Grod had not been laid on him in vain. His calm, dignified, soldierlike bearing, his extreme humility, his courteous manner, his tender affection, his delight in the services of religion, his kindness to and forbearance with the young, his power over a naturally impatient temper, won the hearts of all who associated with him, and showed that the trials through which he had passed had perfected his character, and drawn him to serve still more earnestly his God and Saviour. The difficulties he now had to contend with in his regimental command were great. The 26th consisted chiefly of young men ; for the Chusan fever and the chances of war had swept away almost all the men who had left Calcutta in 1840. They had reached the shores of China about 900 strong: nearly 900 recruits were sent out to them there, and only the original number returned to England. p 2 212 MEMOIRS, LETTERS,, ETC. A large sum of money (17007.), which was due to the men for accumulated pay and arrears, was sent from the India House. Colonel Mountain had hoped to persuade his men to invest their hardly earned gains in the regimental savings bank; but though warmly seconded in this by the officers commanding companies, but few men left their money with their captain. The remainder took it, and the temptation unhappily proved too strong : whiskey, the curse of Scotland, did its work, in spite of every endeavour of the Colonel to prevent the evil; and considerable severity, most repugnant to the character of their commanding officer, became absolutely necessary. But this was only for a short time ; the men soon learnt to love and trust their Colonel, who would, they knew, be just, and who, though he never passed over neglect of duty, was always mindful of the comfort of his men, and anxious to reward those who were steady and well-behaved. The comfort of the soldiers' wives and children was a great object of his attention. He provided for their decent accommodation as far as was possible (though the present plan of barracks allows of very little ar- rangement for the poor women) ; but even the know- ledge that they were thought of and cared for gave them some feeling of self-respect, and the majority behaved with the greatest propriety. He established a Sunday School ; and in the chil- dren's school and the adult school he took the greatest interest, inducing the men to attend, not THE CAMERONIANS. 213 only by persuasion, but by making a rule that no man should be promoted to be corporal or sergeant unless he could read and write. The regimental reading-room he considered as of great importance, and he always set apart a good room in the barracks for this purpose, where tables with baize covers were provided, a good fire kept up, books and newspapers supplied, and coffee could be procured at a moderate rate. Nor were the eternal interests of his soldiers neg- lected. Bibles and other religious books were sup- plied to the hospital, and the visits of the chaplain in every way encouraged. The 26th being a Scotch regiment, Government provided only a Presbyterian service ; but as there were many Episcopalians amongst the men, and no room for them in the Church of England chapels, Mr. Suther, one of the Episcopalian clergymen in Edinburgh, most kindly undertook gratuitously to perform Divine Service at the Castle early on Sunday morning, for all who chose to attend ; and whilst in Edinburgh, forty-two of the young men were induced to present themselves for confirmation. It was the custom of the Cameronians that the band should not play in marching to and from Church ; and it was remarked by many how well the men behaved during service, every man having his book, and at the Church of England service kneel- ing during the prayers ; and this, as well as the large attendance at the school, was attributed to the in- P 3 214 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. fluence of the Colonel. Colonel Mountain always attended service with his men in the morning, and then went into the town for the fuller service in one of the English chapels. He was very desirous to keep up a sentiment of esprit de corps amongst his officers, and to infuse a high tone of gentlemanly feeling; and in this he suc- ceeded : indeed, it was not easy to live with him, and not catch some spark of the generous, high-minded, unselfish energy, which, in him, was to be seen in every word and action. He steadily repressed all extravagance amongst the young officers, and kept the mess expenses as low as was possible, feeling that it was unsuitable for soldiers, and inconsistent for men of small income, to spend a large portion of their pay in eating and drinking. The following extract from a letter written at this time to a friend, who had remonstrated with him upon his unceasing work and neglect of his health, gives some idea of the feeling with which he under- took the various duties that crowded upon him. " It is all very well for you to tell me that I ought to have fixed hours for business ; I am paid for my time, and consider that my people have a right to it ; and if I referred every thing to fixed hours, I should lose many opportunities of correcting irregularities on the one hand and doing little kindnesses on the other ; and though my seeing myself and speaking to soldier's relatives, who come from the country, may cost me a little time, and interfere with this or that visit, it is right in the first THE CAMERONIANS. 215 place, and in the second, it increases my influence with my own people In short, for a man to take in hand a regiment that had been disorganised, as this had been by peculiar circumstances, and not give up his time to it, would be folly. I aspire to restoring the regiment to what it was in Colonel Oglander's time, and in one respect to more than that ; I take the lead amongst my officers, encourage them by precept and example to go into society, and tell them to look upon me as a friend, and come to me whenever they require assistance pro- fessionally or privately "As I am responsible in a great degree for the conduct and the happiness of nine hundred men and youths, and in no inconsiderable degree for that of one hundred and fifty women and children beside, I must just take my own road, and do the best I can according to my own judgment. "I wish you would take my place for a month ; you must understand tailoring and shoemaking ; you must be a schoolmaster ; you must be prepared to meet every case of want or misconduct that occurs amid one thousand five hundred individuals of every age and class and temper ! and if you do this tolerably and without giving up to them more than so many fixed hours a day, I will acknowledge myself beat ! For the above task is in addition to all the ordinary duties, discipline and corre- spondence of a regiment. "I do not agree with all that is said by writers in the 6 Quarterly Review' and 'Times' as to the education of soldiers ; but there is much in their remarks, and the barrack system of our service is abominable. It behoves a man, however, to be very cautious, for there is a narrow-minded apprehension of change amongst some of p 4 216 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. those in power, which a man can never evade, if he once gets the name of an innovator. ... I am no innovator, no lover of levelling or straining after things beyond a man's sphere, but I see very great room for improvement in many things." Colonel Mountain's aim was to work through and with his officers, to inspire each officer and private with the feeling that the credit of the regiment was more or less in every man's keeping, to impress upon them his determination that the character of the Cameronians should not suffer in his hands but at the same time to prove to them that he would rather rule by good will than by the fear of punish- ment. The following sentences are from a memorandum addressed to the Captains of the regiment, in which he pointed out some defects in the discipline of the corps, and called upon them to help him. "Although it be comparatively an easy task to main- tain the system of a regiment when the gradations of responsibility, the spirit of subordination, and a steady esprit de corps have been once perfectly established, it is very difficult to introduce such a system when it has not existed. . . . " When such a system has existed, a youngster imbibes his notions as to duty, his feeling to his regimental Chief, his impressions as to conduct at mess, and all that is expected from him as an officer of the corps, not so much from his commanding officer as from his brother officers, from the seniors particularly, from his Captain more than THE CAMERONIANS. 217 any. It is of little use for a commanding officer to preach to a youngster about attention to his drill, about daily visiting his barracks, about observance of the mess rules at the mess and in the anteroom, if the doctrine of the Chief and the habit of the regiment are at variance. . . "I would fearlessly submit my verbal and written orders to any authority in the service. They are unde- niably consistent with the Queen's regulations, which are almost a transcript of the system of Sir John Moore, in which I was trained Recollect that though your way may possibly be better than mine, I am the ap- pointed judge, and the general good is best consulted by working cordially together in one system. Recollect que c*est dans I'ecole de Vobeissance que Von apprend Tart de commander! If you have any complaints to make, any- thing to suggest to me, come to me frankly and freely, but always with temper ; and be careful to support me both in deed and word in the presence of your juniors. . . "Let us look to the future, let us make a long pull, and a strong pull, and a pull all together. . . . Your character, as well as mine, and the credit of the corps are at stake. We have but one interest, and ought to have but one feeling ; let us work together, and with good will, and the day will be won ! " As a proof that his exertions were successful, it may be mentioned here, that after the inspection of the 26th, in the autumn of 1847, the Duke of Wellington, then Commander-in- Chief, signified his great satisfac- tion with the report of the regiment. "The state to which the 26th regiment has been 218 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. brought/' he says, "shows what a commanding officer's exertions can effect A state most creditable to Colonel Mountain." He entered very much into society in Edinburgh, receiving great hospitality, and enjoying the company of intellectual and cultivated people, for which he was, by his varied acquirements and fine taste, pe- culiarly fitted; but anxious for the welfare of his soldiers, and needing the sympathy of a companion in his cares, he was often weary, and longed for a home. In the autumn of 1844 the Cameronians left Edinburgh for Newcastle, carrying with them the good wishes of the whole town and the hearty approbation of the Commander-in-Chief, Sir Niel Douglas. An instance may here be recorded of Colonel Mountain's judicious conduct, and this may be done the more readily, as the officer to whom it refers has since left the service. When the regiment was about to leave Edinburgh, Colonel Mountain addressed the men, told them how much their dissipated conduct had been commented upon, and besought them to abstain from drinking during the last days, so that they might all march out of the Castle sober. The soldiers nobly responded to this appeal, and when the regiment paraded for the march, not a man was the worse for liquor. But alas ! there was a sad blemish in the appearance of the corps one of the lieutenants came intoxicated THE CAMERONIANS. 219 to parade. He was placed in arrest. Had he been brought to a court-martial, his prospects in life would have been destroyed ; and as the officer had done good service in China, Colonel Mountain felt averse to such a measure of severity. Yet an example was imperatively necessary ; the private soldier could not be expected to abstain if his officers were to transgress and the fault not be punished. It ap- peared that the young man had dined at the mess of another regiment ; they had remained at table till late in the night, and the lieutenant had not had time to recover from the effects of his carouse. Colonel Mountain acted thus : it appeared in Orders, " Lieut. - , of the Grenadiers, will do duty in one of the battalion companies." Thus every man in the regiment witnessed the comparative degradation of this officer, whilst his prospects in life were not injured. It may be mentioned, for the information of civilians, that to be attached to one of the flank companies is an honour, and also an advantage. In February, 1845, Colonel Mountain returned to Scotland, and married Charlotte Anna, eldest daughter of Colonel Dundas of Carron Hall. After a few months spent amongst their relations, he rejoined his regiment at Manchester ; and now, if sorrow and suffering had brought forth good fruits, in purifying his character, the happiness of home was to increase those fruits, and lead him to strive yet more earnestly, whilst enjoying the blessings of this life, " to live less to the world and more to God." This 220 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. was his daily prayer ; and it was often observed by those who knew him best, that when his happiness was most complete, his heart turned most closely to his God, most thankfully in humble gratitude to his Kedeemer. In June the regiment was ordered to Belfast, and remained there till the following spring. The curate of the parish, who acted as military chaplain, found a steady friend and helper in Colonel Mountain ; and, speaking a few months ago to a friend, this gentleman said that he had never in the course of his ministry had so much comfort and satisfaction as in his intercourse with the 26th regiment, which he attributed to the personal character and influence of their commanding officer. Fitted as Colonel Mountain was to shine in public life, he was even more admirable in his own home. He had asked the blessing of God upon his marriage; and his daily prayer with his wife was, that they might so follow Christ in this world that they might be together in His presence in eternity. Trusting all the management of his home to his wife, and employing her in the direction of the children's school and amongst the women of the regiment, he considered that, as a Christian master, he must be the head of his own household; and wisely and kindly was this control exerted. His sensitively diffident nature required entire affection to be shown to him, and in return he gave the strong and deep love of his unselfish character the com- HIS CHARACTER. 221 plete trust of his confiding and generous nature. He had become (from illness and exposure in India and China) slightly deaf; and though this did not inter- fere with his comfort when with one person only, it was a daily trial when mixing with others, for he could not hear conversation unless addressed to himself. This was indeed a great trial : but the expression of sweet, patient resignation, with which he would look around, when he saw others enjoying pleasures from which he was excluded, endeared him yet more to those who saw it, and who knew how much he delighted in cheerful conversation and innocent merriment. Although naturally of an over-anxious tempera- ment, he was always cheerful, thankfully accepting the blessings granted to him, and ready to draw enjoyment from any passing occurrence: but his greatest pleasure was, after his day's work, to explore with his wife the country around Belfast ; and the daily rides along that beautiful coast, with one who delighted as he did in the beauties of nature, were a source of constant happiness. There was a purity and freshness in his mind, a love of all that was holy and beautiful, that made him a most delightful and instructive companion, whilst his refined taste and feeling and quick perception of character gave a peculiar charm to his conversation. In the spring the regiment was sent to Ennis- killen, and remained there for four months. The barracks were small, and, finding great difficulty in 222 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. carrying out his usual plan of separating the married and single men, he took a house in the town for the accommodation of the soldiers married with leave. The regimental school of the 26th had attracted the attention of a writer in the " Quarterly Beview," who mentioned it with praise in an article on educa- tion. Colonel Mountain in replying to a friend who had remarked upon this notice, alludes to some of the difficulties which beset the commanding officer of a regiment. " You speak of the notice of my school in the ' Quar- terly.' I was much surprised, for the school is unobtru- sive, and I have no acquaintance with any writer for that work. It would do me no good at .... if that were observed. . . " That great and good man, Oglander, who originated, I believe, most of the improvements that have been since adopted who had a savings bank, thirty years before they became an order for the army, who had an ad- mirable library for his men twenty years before they were established by authority who had a regimental institution, with provisions very similar to the good conduct warrant that has appeared a quarter of a cen- tury subsequently who was the father of his regiment this admirable man was never appreciated in his life, and I could show you singular recent proof that pre- judice follows him in death, and that I, as a supposed pupil, am suspected of too much * benevolence and phi- lanthropy,' although I solemnly assure you, that I be- lieve myself to be as strict as most regiments in the service. I certainly would not give the healthy cheerful BREVET. 223 look of my fellows for the jaded appearance that some soldiers have, even to be held up as a super-pipe clay ; but I am a friend to strictness and smartness, and do my best to maintain both " Though fond of my profession for itself, and taking that interest in my officers and men which occupies my mind, my situation has its mortifications as well as others. The commanding officer of an infantry regiment in the United Kingdom, unless otherwise a man of rank and influence, is nobody, and snubbed on all hands ! However I take my quiet growl at times, and work on my own way." In Jane a small Brevet for Gwalior was granted, and, to Colonel Mountain's surprise, he saw his own name in the Gazette as Aide-de-camp to the Queen. Some weeks afterwards, being at the Horse-Guards, he asked whether any of his friends had applied for this honour for him, and he was told that his name had not been brought forward by any one, but that, on the names of other officers having been laid before the Commander-in-Chief for promotion, His Grace considered that it would be unjust to promote them whilst Mountain was unrewarded, and therefore he was included in the Brevet. It was remarked at Enniskillen how many of the officers of the regiment attended Divine Service in the afternoon, and what a number of the soldiers with their wives and children were also to be seen there ; and this was justly attributed to the influence of their Colonel, who was never absent when the doors 224 MEMOIRS, LETTERS,, ETC. of the church were open. Even when there was no service^ he had a peculiar delight in being in the house of prayer, and rarely passed a church, if the door was accidentally open, without going in. He always said that a few moments spent in the solemn stillness calmed and soothed his mind ; and no one, who saw the heavenly expression that at such times passed over his face, could doubt that the spirit of his God was with him. His brother Eobert, the rector of Havant, was taken ill at this time, and died in a few days. So sudden a termination of his illness had not been expected, and Colonel Mountain was not able to be with his brother before his death. He went to England to attend his fun'eral, and, by his tender affection and sympathy, helped to comfort his sister, to whom the loss of this dear brother was a very severe trial. His own* words will give the best account of his thoughts, and the respect shown to the memory of this faithful minister of Christ. " I have seen him to his grave, and knelt beside his coffin and our mother's coffin in the narrow vault ! " It was an affecting sight to see the coffin placed in front of the pulpit, where for twenty years he laboured faithfully in his Master's service ! Everything was neatly arranged : there was no hearse, no coaches, no heartless pomp. The coffin was borne by men : six of the neighbouring clergy were the pall-bearers. . . . " In the road outside about sixty of his principal pa- rishioners, headed by Sir George Staunton, and all DEATH OF HIS BROTHER. LJl'.j dressed in mourning, formed a lane, and followed after we had passed. The school children, about 100 in num- ber, preceded the coffin, and, on arriving at the church gate, opened out into a lane, through which we passed. I saw the teachers and many of the girls sobbing as if their hearts would break. The church was full : and all along the road, as we passed, were groups of poor people, many dressed in mourning for the occasion. The shops have had half-shutters closed since the body came down, and are so still ! " He desired in his will that there should be no funeral sermon, and no unnecessary expense for his funeral ; but he could not prevent the universal testimony of feeling ; and it is a meeter tribute to his memory, a higher . testi- mony to his worth, than any pomp or public panegyric. " It appears that his illness was brought on by over- exertion. . . . But it is useless to look to second causes : God was pleased to take him. His last words were : ( I have no pain, but I am weary. Why don't I go to my rest ? ' The mouth of the body asked the question, the spirit met the answer in heaven ! . . . . " Sunday. " I have been to church, and prayed . . . ., and that we may find acceptance through the merits of our Saviour. " The whole congregation attended in mourning, and there were 154 communicants, being at least half of the whole ; a striking instance, both of respect to his me- mory, and of the effect of his teaching ! * In the autumn of 1846 the regiment was ordered to Dublin, and quartered in the Eoyal Barracks. 226 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. The adjutant of the 26th had just obtained a com- pany : and thus, with a newly-appointed and in- experienced officer, who had to learn his duty, in a large garrison, with frequent field-days, and the regiment broken up into numerous detachments, the work of the commanding officer was very arduous. He was also appointed Inspector of Military Prisons ; and this, though a subject in which he took great interest, added to his work. He was extremely fond of hunting, and rode remarkably well; but during the nine months that the Cameronians remained in Dublin he never once went out with the hounds, finding it impossible to give up his time to this amusement without neglecting his duty. In spring he was anxious to have a few weeks' leave, for family reasons, and also that he might attend a levee and drawing-room as the Queen's A. D .C. The following passages from a letter written at this time show his feelings about his profession, both as a Christian and a soldier : " I have not much time to spare. In fact writing takes up almost all that is not broken in upon by some regi- mental call, or employed abroad. When I shall get away I know not. . . . All the arrangements consequent on the augmentation I must superintend ; and while we are together and the Prince hot upon his field-days, I do not like to ask for leave. In fact, I should be very sorry to lose the chance of commanding a brigade again. . . (Just had the servants up to prayers, and now resume PROFESSIONAL FEELINGS. 227 my pen.) If I were a clergyman, no one would ask me to desert my parishioners ; if I were a doctor, I could not leave my patients in the lurch ; if a lawyer, I must attend to my clients ; and why, because I am a soldier, should it be supposed that to do the least possible duty would be meritorious ? I have no fancy for soldiers who like anything better than their duty. I have not only a regard for my professional character, not only take a serious view of my responsibility, but feel a very great interest in my people. Let those smile in scorn or shrug their shoulders that like ! I am a soldier at heart, not for the name, or the sake of an idle life, or a gay coat ; . . and despite all disheartenings, all worries, all the labour and little pay, all the more kicks than halfpennies, I like my situation better than any I have ever held. . . . Sir Edward Blakeney, high as is his po- sition, observed to me the other day that there was no situation so gratifying to a soldier as regimental com- mand, none which brings with it so much immediate authority, or in which a man has so much direct in- fluence for good. " . . f I am only now beginning to reap the reward of years of exertion. My regiment is beginning, I think, really to get a name, and I must be more than ever care- ful that it is not swamped in this fresh deluge of raga- muffin recruits. . . . The difficulty of command lies in making officers do their duty, and do it cheerfully and with good and kind feeling towards their subordinates and towards their chief; and the man who succeeds in com- manding a regiment well through his officers, and is yet passing well liked by them, is either one of those lucky dogs who was born with a silver spoon in Ins mouth, or Q 2 228 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. a superior man. ... I have fallen very far short of my visions of younger days ! . . . " I am very glad that you like your clergyman. ... I feel my own short- comings, and fully admit that we can- not live too much to God, that is, have in all things too constant respect to His will and to our hopes of eternity ; but I rather distrust religous impressions that are the result of impulse or excited feeling, and lead to changes of conduct that may change again under new circum- stances. I have seen my father, my mother, my brothers, my sister, take for their guide certain fixed Christian principles, which, in health, in sickness, in joy, in sorrow, in distinction, in disappointment, remain the same, both in respect to views of the use of this world without abusing it, and to the means of salvation ; and these are the principles which I desire to cultivate in myself, and to see in my wife. . . . An unreserved communion of thought and feeling upon religious subjects is the base and groundwork of domestic happiness. . . ." This year was the worst year of the famine in Ireland ; the distress everywhere was frightful, though it was less apparent in Dublin than in the country; and Colonel Mountain willingly gave his assistance to relieve the sufferers. Even amongst the soldiers' families the distress was very great, owing to the high price of provisions ; and, in order to give work to some of the women of the regiment, he set on foot a system of having the shirts for the soldiers made up in the regiment, instead of getting them from the contractors. This, of course, gave a great deal of trouble till it was well established ; but APPOINTED MILITARY SECRETARY. 229 the plan was found to answer well. The men liked the shirts, as they were rather cheaper than those procured from the contractors ; and the women were very grateful for the employment. This system was carried on in the regiment for many years with great success. In June, 1847, the 26th was ordered to Buttevant, a small village in the south of Ireland. There was little society in the neighbourhood; but, occupied with his regiment, and delighting in his home, Colonel Mountain was more than usually happy, and often looked back with pleasure to the short time he spent there. He set on foot various plans for the comfort of the soldiers' wives and for the improvement of the school, and took great interest in the training of the band to chant in church. Whilst in Dublin they had improved very much in church-music, and had always chanted the Canticles and sung the Psalms in the church of Kilmainham Hospital. At Butte- vant the parish church was too small for the soldiers to be admitted to the morning service, and there was therefore an earlier service for them in the church, when it was a pure and holy pleasure to see how many earnestly joined in the service and raised their voices in praise to God. In August, the Earl of Dalhousie, having been selected as the Grovernor-Greneral of India, wrote to Colonel Mountain, offering him, in the most gratify- ing manner, the appointment of Military Secretary and after some deliberation the offer was accepted. Q 3 230 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. He felt that he should like the post of Military Secretary, that he could work well under such a man as Lord Dalhousie, and that, having lately refused two staff appointments, it would be unwise to decline a third ; but he hesitated to take his wife to Bengal, he was sincerely attached to his regiment, and he knew that his own health had been shaken by his residence in India, and by three years' hard work in China. After calm consideration, he resolved to accept the appointment offered to him, and, laying aside all over-anxious care, to trust all things in the hand of his (rod and go cheerily forward. The departure of Colonel Mountain from the Came- ronians was marked by many demonstrations of warm attachment and regret. Every officer and man felt that he was losing a friend ; that their Colonel, pos- sessing every quality of a soldier and a gentleman, had devoted himself to their best interests, to pro- mote the efficiency of the regiment, and to further the welfare of each individual. On the day previous to his departure each officer waited singly on the Colonel, to take a kindly fare- well ; and many of these interviews were most touching. On the following day, at the hour of departure, the carriage came to the door : the whole of the regiment assembled without orders, the officers in front of the Colonel's quarters ; the privates formed in companies, but without officers or sergeants; for these last had selected a duty for themselves. They LEAVES THE CAMERONIANS. 231 advanced respectfully to the carriage, and, taking out the horses, they supplied the place of these animals, and, in spite of all remonstrance, insisted on drawing the carriage, which contained their beloved com- mander and his wife. The privates formed in sections before and after the carriage, the officers were on each side, and the cortege moved on : not a word was spoken, for affection was evinced far be- yond anything that words can express. When they had proceeded a mile from the barracks, the horses were attached to the carriage ; the soldiers formed on each side of the road ; each officer once again pressed silently the hand of his late Colonel; the privates stood at attention ; and the carriage moved slowly between the ranks of affectionate soldiers. Many a tear was shed : and who shall deny the grandeur of this silent ' tribute to the worth and assiduity of -a good man ! It may be mentioned that the officers resolved to present their Colonel with a breakfast-set of plate ; but Colonel Mountain refused this token, most kindly, but most resolutely. The object of the regiment was, however, attained ; the plate was sent out to India a year and a half later, with Mrs. Mountain's name added to her husband's ; and thus presented, it could not be refused. Q 4 232 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. CHAPTEE X. IN October, 1847, Colonel and Mrs. Mountain left England for India. He had determined to spend a fortnight in Egypt, and hoped, by proceeding from Suez in the next steamer, to reach Calcutta before Lord Dalhousie's arrival. The French mail having been detained, gave the passengers of the " Sultan" three days to spend at Malta ; and here Colonel Mountain made acquaintance with Sir Charles Napier, who was afterwards to be his immediate chief, and who was then returning from Scinde. After two days spent at Alexandria, Colonel Moun- tain proceeded to Cairo, and there remained for a fortnight, visiting all that was worth seeing in the town and neighbourhood. This was a time of great enjoyment, and, through the kindness of the English and French consuls, he gained greater insight into native life in Cairo than is usually granted to strangers. One interesting visit that he and his wife paid was to the house of a Syrian gentleman. After entering a court, into which the windows of the house opened, and going up various stairs, the visitors were shown CAIRO. 233 into an ante-room, where the gentleman and his wife met them, and conducted them into a saloon paved with marble and surrounded by divans. The two ladies sat down together on the low cushions, while the gentlemen were honoured with European chairs. Pipes were brought in, for every one ; but as they per- ceived that the English lady did not smoke, but only held the pipe in her hand, she was courteously re- quested to lay it aside, and the hostess did so likewise. The Levantine lady was a young and rather pretty girl, dressed in full trowsers and a tunic, over which, when she left the house, she threw a long pink cloak, which entirely covered her ; and a strip of thick white muslin, with interstices for the eyes, concealed her face. Her greatest interest seemed to be excited by the wedding-ring of her guest. She could not under- stand why such a simple ornament should be used when the lady had prettier rings, and, untwisting the end of the scarf that formed her girdle, she showed triumphantly a diamond ring as her spousal band. Soon after, a very interesting and pretty old lady glided into the room. She was the host's mother. .No one paid the least attention to her ; but Colonel Mountain, yielding to the impulse of his feeling for a woman and his reverence for old age, started up and brought her a seat, to the utter amazement of the gentleman, and not less so of the little old lady. Then tiny cups of coffee, flavoured with amber were brought in, and afterwards a tray containing small spoons, with a piece of com- 234 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. fiture which tasted of violets on each ; and the visit was at an end : but an invitation was given to go the next day to a private garden outside the town, where the lady appeared carefully veiled. The following account of his stay in Egypt is taken from a letter written by Colonel Mountain to his friend Colonel Anger stein : " Alexandria has none of its pristine magnificence, and has now a mixed character between European and Asiatic ; but my wife was exceedingly struck and de- lighted. Her ride on a donkey through the streets from the shore to the Hotel, through which long strings of camels, Oriental horsemen, shrouded women, and pedestrians in Greek or Egyptian costume are always passing, much excited her. The French have induced Mehemet Ali to throw extensive modern fortifications round the place, into which no doubt, on the first rupture, they would, if we did not keep a sharp look out at sea, throw 10,000 or 15,000 men from Algiers. Nothing interested me so much at Alexandria as what is called Csesar's camp, the remains of a Roman fortress near the spot where Aber- crombie fell, about ten miles in front of the Rosetta gate. " The Pacha is now commencing the great work said to have been projected by Napoleon ; that is, the at- tempt to carry bridges with sluice gates over both branches of the Nile. Vast mounds of material have been collected on either shore, thousands of people are employed, and the head of the Delta is already faced with stone. The object is to have the power of main- taining a higher level of the river when the annual inundation subsides. If these vast sluice gates should be EGYPT. 235 sufficiently solid to withstand the force of the stream, the benefit will be great ; but this is the risk. We were thirteen days at Cairo, and I never enjoyed a holiday more in my life. The climate at this season is perfectly delicious, and the place the most amusing for a fortnight's sojourn that I know. " There are many interesting excursions to be made, and ample sources of interest and amusement in the town itself. I went this morning, after arrival, to wait on the Pacha at Shoobza with Murray, and finding that I had my wife with me, the old man asked me to bring her to breakfast the next morning and we went. He was playing at billiards when we arrived, but instantly led the way to a divan and placed my wife beside him, Murray and I sitting next her. After breakfast, pipes and coffee were brought, I smiled to see Mrs. Mountain with a long pipe in one hand, and a beautiful little frame of gold filigree in the other, containing a very small coffee cup. On her observing that English ladies did not smoke, His Highness ordered the pipe away. He was very good humoured and talkative, and is quite a gentle- man in his manners, but as he does not speak a syllable of any language but Turkish, everything passed through a somewhat indifferent interpreter. Some days after- wards Mrs. Mountain went with Madame Barraud, the wife of the French consul-general, by His Highness's special invitation, to breakfast with his eldest and fa- vourite daughter, the widow of Defterdaz Bey. On this occasion Mrs. Mountain had to eat with her fingers, and take and seem to smoke eighteen pipes one after another, as it would have been a breach of etiquette to decline. She describes the scene as the most gorgeous imaginable. The Princess was not very gaudily attired herself but 236 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. her slave girls, of whom there was a host, were arrayed in magnificent shawls and jewels. " We went to Heliopolis, supposed to be the On of Scrip- ture, where there is an obelisk standing amid mounds, and, in a garden near it, an ancient knotted sycamore, under which, according to Copt tradition, the Virgin and child reposed on first arriving in Egypt. This we did on donkeys, as also the trip to the Pyramids, winding along a zigzag dyke over the valley of the Nile, as the inundation had not quite subsided. My wife ascended with me the great Pyramid of Cheops, and I afterwards explored the chambers, crawling at the expense of a broken back through the low passages. These and the chambers are lined with huge blocks of beautiful granite ; the outer mass is of softer stone, but the blocks, even at the very top, are some of them four feet long, and propor- tionately wide and deep. They are wonderful structures ; but I confess that I was at first disappointed by the general effect, perhaps from over-wrought expectation, or because the vastness of the unobstructed view around leads the mind to undervalue, amid new forms of God's creation, these monster efforts of man's labour. We visited the island of Roda, where Pharaoh's daughter found Moses, according to the tradition. About a third of the island is occupied by a beautiful garden. Opposite is old Cairo. The ancient Copt Church, built upon the spot, as it is said, where the Virgin dwelt for three years, is exceedingly interesting and curious, and you gain it, after admission through a portal in the old Roman wall, by traversing the narrow streets of the old Copt town, which are still and mysterious ; a perfect contrast to the crowd and hubbub of New Cairo. Our longest excursion, and the whole way through the CAIRO. 237 desert, was to the Petrified Forest, and on this occasion my wife and I rode Arabs of Murray's, who had din-ctcd our guide to take us to a point five miles further than is usually visited, h-'he was seven hours on horseback, which was too much, but the air of the desert is so de- licious and invigorating, that I am sure she could not have stood it at all anywhere else. In Cairo itself, the Mosques and Bazaars always repay a visit. The view from the citadel is one of the most striking in the world, and the tombs of the Caliphs, and of the Mamelukes, are charac- teristic. These buildings, however, with exception of one or two mosques, and the houses, as well as ruins, are very inferior, in point both of architecture and of material, to the Mohammedan remains in India ; but it is the peculiar Arab character of the place that gives so great a charm to Cairo. This it is losing daily, as the old houses, with their projecting balconies covered with carved work like a screen of lace, are every day pulled down to make way for more commodious structures. . . . We attended service, and took the'Sacrament in the Chapel, which is the hall of a spacious Arab house. The singing was pleasing in itself, and there was something touching in an English Psalm, from the lips of Arab boys in native costume. These children are taught by Mrs. Lieder, whose schools my wife visited. The transit gave me a van to ourselves, in which we crossed the desert though it be somewhat jolty for a lady very comfortably. . . . We had four horses, and changed every five miles. . . . The stations are so many white spots in the d< generally accompanied by a telegraph, and have stabling for twenty horses, and some of them accommodation for travellers. Every article for man and horse, water 238 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. included, must be brought to these stations on camels ; but at No. 8 station, we got an excellent supper, clean beds, and an ample breakfast the next morning, after which we proceeded to Suez. . . . Much as we were delighted with Fgypt, and pleased with the Pacha, who is certainly one of the most remark- able men of his time, as an Asiatic, I fear that he does not deserve the praise that the French and some of the English papers bestow upon him. His country is ill- governed ; every man grinds the man next below him ; the fellah is wretchedly poor; agriculture, the staple of the country, is neglected for great works of doubtful utility ; and the population is diminished and diminishing. .... It is estimated that the Pacha takes for himself one-third of the whole produce of the country, that his great men take another third, and that one-third is left for the support of the whole nation. It would seem that our Government has singularly neglected Egypt. Five years ago we had the transit in our own hands, English steam- ers on the Nile, and the goodwill of the Government. One by one we have let everything go ; the French have the transit, English steamers have been sold, and replaced by French, there is a Frenchman in every department of the Egyptian Government, and the French have fortified Alexandria at the Pacha's expense. In the event of a rupture with France, it would cost us no little blood and treasure to regain the position in Egypt which we have lost by our own supineness. We cannot blame France for laying, as we have given way, a strong hand upon the neck of our communication with India, as it will be a powerful lever in her hand against us in time of need. Aden is a most extraordinary place, being nothing more nor less than the crater of an old volcano, connected ADEN. 2.'>9 with the mainland by a flat isthmus of sand, like the neutral ground at Gibraltar. As it is important to us as a coaling depot, it has been fortified at great expense, by extensive lines, directed against the Isthmus The works are well conceived in themselves, but too ex- tensive, and not adapted for the defence on all hands of a small force The Maldives, near which we passed, are the greatest possible contrast to Aden. The former are beauteous plots of tropical verdure, floating on the face of Ocean : on the latter, not a blade of grass grows, nor shrub of any sort ; it is a huge, but, in form, very picturesque mass of lava and cinders." Early in January, 1848, Colonel Mountain arrived in Calcutta, and set to work at his new duties. These were often laborious ; but it pleased Grod to grant him good health, and, enjoying the confidence of his chief, and knowing that he was in a position to benefit his fellow-creatures, he threw his whole mind and heart into his work. He rose always at gun-fire, and, as soon as there was sufficient light, he got on his horse and rode for an hour or two : returning home, he joined his wife in her dressing-room, and spent an hour in reading the Bible ; and at these times he would open his heart and speak freely on religious subjects, acting on his often expressed opinion, that " unreserved communion of thought and feeling upon religious subjects is the base and groundwork of domestic happiness." Some few standard works of old writers he liked to read ; but 240 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. generally he preferred studying the Bible only, finding that God's own word gave a stay and comfort to his mind that nothing else could. The same habit was continued at Simla, when he was Adjutant -General. If any unexpected busi- ness prevented this daily reading, he would come to his wife during the day and say : " Don't let me forget our morning reading ; I need the poise to my mind, and cannot get on without it." At ten o'clock he was at his office at Government House, and remained there till five o'clock, or some- times later, rarely leaving his desk even to join the luncheon table. The constant application from officers, of whom perhaps he knew nothing, to obtain his influence with the Governor-General to get them appointments, was very worrying ; and as many of these must necessarily be refused, it was an ungracious office : but he invariably answered these letters, and in so kind and courteous a tone, that many young men, far from feeling aggrieved by his refusal, were won to admire and esteem him. In recommending officers to the Governor-General for staff employment, he held it a sacred duty to consider first the interests of the service, and, setting aside other considerations, always named those whom he conscientiously believed to be the best qualified for, and most deserving of, promotion. His day's work done, he returned home, and with his bright cheerfulness made the light of his dwelling. A drive with his wife through the luxuriant woods CALCUTTA. 241 near Calcutta, and then a quiet evening, concluded the day. He was too tired by the evening to have any wish for society ; but it was not possible to avoid occasional engagements ; and when in company, his easy, graceful manners, quick tact, and agreeable conversation, made him a universal favourite. The following extract is from a letter to a dear friend, written at this time : " In the papers that arrived by the last mail from England, I was grieved to see the announcement of your dear mother's death. She is gone to her meet resting- place to her Father which is in Heaven ! The state of her health had, I believe, long been such as to admit of but little enjoyment on earth for her ; to her the change is blessed ! But I know your affectionate heart, I know how you loved your mother I know how she deserved to be loved I know what a tender mother's love is to an attached son ! You will have felt this blow severely, my friend, you will feel it still ; but ere this letter comes into your hands, time will have softened the pang, and the unavoidable business of life drawn you back to the world. But my dear, dear friend, let not the holy feelings, to which I know this bereavement will have given rise within your bosom, fall away like the seed that fell upon stony places, or be choked up with the cares and pursuits of this life, like the seed that fell among thorns ! Oh ! let not regret for any pain you may have given your blessed mother be effaced, let not her precepts be forgotten, let not the resolutions of amendment which you will have formed, be wafted away by the whirl of this life. B 242 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. " Believe me, my friend, I am a disinterested witness, and labour now, and must ever labour, while I live, under the humbling consciousness that early attention to the precepts of my own parents might have saved me from the commission of many sins and follies. " And when we reflect that we are immortal beings, that we have souls to be saved, that we profess to believe that we shall live for ever, is it not wonderful how much even the best amongst us are carried away by the gra- tification or feeling of the moment, how little we live up to our professed belief that we are but pilgrims on this transitory scene ! Oh ! let us endeavour to atone for the past, to redeem our lost time, to live the remainder of our earthly sojourn so that we may hope in the end to rejoin those loved ones who have gone before. 46 It has pleased God to give health to my dear wife and me, so that we feel the inconvenience of the hot season comparatively little. . . . "You will believe that we are looking with anxious in- terest to affairs in Europe. It seems wonderful to me that the eloquent author of ' Les Girondins,' who has so fear- fully described the horrors of mob-rule, should have lent his name and his hand to what except that it has hitherto assumed more of an absurd than of a bloody character promises to be a second edition of the same! But what a corollary to his problem, the fact of his having taken a house for his family in England ! " After the murder of Messrs. Anderson and Vans Agnew at Moultan, when war with the Sikhs was decided upon, Colonel Mountain asked and obtained leave from the Govern or- General to join his regiment in the field. JOINS THE ARMY. 243 His only anxiety was in leaving his young wife alone and with a long journey before her; for it was arranged that she should follow, to be as near the army as possible : but the nearest and dearest ties (and no man ever gave more pure or tender love to a wife) never interfered with what he knew to be his duty as a soldier. As soon as the order was published for the 29th (the regiment into which he had exchanged) to join the army, he made preparations for his departure, allowing himself only four or five days. He made every possible arrangement for his wife's journey, and, confiding her to the care of kind friends, started alone on the 4th of October. His dak had been laid so that he might reach the camp in the shortest possible time, and he expected to be able to rest for four hours during the heat of each day ; but, from various untoward circumstances, this necessary halt was daily shortened, sometimes to little more than an hour, and, the heat being still very great, he became very much exhausted with the fatigue of thus travelling night and day ; and the exposure and over-exertion brought on derangement of the system, from which he suffered during the whole campaign. At Umballa he stopped for a day to secure a house for his wife ; and, having arranged for her comfort there, he went on to Ferozepore. During the campaign he wrote daily to his wife, and often when hurried or weary he shortened his hours of rest that she might not be disappointed, B 2 244 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. and that his words of love and Christian counsel might strengthen her faith and patience in bearing the unavoidable anxiety of a soldier's wife. He watched over her from a distance with the same devoted and tender care as when she was with him, forestalling every wish, and guarding her from every discomfort or annoyance. His own letters now take up the thread of the narrative ; but it must be borne in mind that, these letters having been written with complete unreserve and confidence, portions of them only can be laid before the public. With regard to his own religious feelings, his delicate and refined taste would have held in horror the idea that they should hereafter be made public ; but occasional passages, which show the motives of his actions, will be given; whilst it can be no transgression of true delicacy to mention that the study of God's own Word was his daily occupa- tion, and the comfort he drew from it the constant theme of grateful thanksgiving. In camp life, surrounded by native servants, with no doors to prevent continual interruption, it was very difficult to secure an undisturbed half-hour ; and his delight was to rise early and get far away from the tents, and, in some quiet place, with none but his (rod to see, to offer up earnest prayers for his own guidance, that he might perform his duties like a self-possessed Christian soldier, and for the welfare of those he loved. His constant reference in moments of diffi- culty, or at the time of any new mercy received, to DAK JOURNEY. 245 the Grod who overrules all things, and his simple trust that his Saviour and Redeemer, whom he never forsook, would not forsake him, were no doubt the secret of his success in his profession and of his great influence over others. "October 22, 1848. " Here I am, safe and sound at Ferozepore, having arrived at 7J A. M., after walking the last twenty miles. I have been on foot since 2 A.M., but having had a wash, really feel but little tired I said I did not recommend horse-dak The horses are restive, the road abominable : the brutes will do nothing some- times for half an hour but turn round and round, and then start off at a gallop. Have you ever seen a man tossed in a blanket ? such was I. My head repeatedly knocked against the top of the palkee ; the drawer came clown ; all the small things knocked about and smashed ; and I seriously apprehended that the palkee would break to pieces and that I should be left in the lurch.* How- ever I got safe to Seharanpore, went on at evening, and at daylight was met by a buggy and body-guard trooper, and reached Umballah early "M drove me to Umballah city on the 19th, and there I empalanquined again ; roads very bad and bearers very slow. On the morning of the 20th I walked the stage to Lasker-Ke-Sarai (ten miles) in two hours and twenty-two minutes, but did not reach Loodiana till 3J P.M. There was a dusty, parching, hot wind blowing all day. The whole country, with excep- * For horse-dak the palkee is put upon a truck ; but this is only done when there is a regularly made road, and in 1848 this was only as far as Meerut. B 3 246 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. tion of a few patches near villages, is sandy waste, and nothing could be more drear " At 3 A.M. on the 21st my bearers put me down in the middle of the road and disappeared ; none others were to be had. After waiting about two hours and a half. Major T , of the Commissariat, who was in the same fix, but was attended by two Shootar-Suwars, lent me one camel ; and, mounting the other himself, we rode on to Dhurrumkote (about twelve miles). The petarrahs were placed on elephants that chanced to come by, and the palkees left to their fate. We passed the 4th troop Native Brigade of Horse Artillery on their march, and very well it looked. At Dhurrumkote we got men to go back for the palkees At length the palkees having come up, we got bearers, and sent them on. Major T and I followed on camels, and, over- taking the palkees half stage, got into them. The re- mainder of this and the next stage all went right ; but, at the third relief, my bearers put me down. On getting out, I found but six very tired men : this was about 2 P.M. I walked this stage, the six men bringing on the palkee. At the next stage not a bearer was to be seen ; but, after some delay, I procured six from a village, and walked on. Midway the bearers proposed to me to get a Tattoo. I found one at a sort of police station, but he was blind, stumbled dreadfully, and the native saddle so galled me, that I did not ride long, but resumed my footies, and reached this place about half-past seven. You can have no conception of the dust ; it lay upon the road, if road it can be called, six inches and more deep. I had arranged with the Brigadier about going down by water to Bhawulpore, when a note from Lord Gough arrived, telling me to wait for him here, as the Sikhs CAMP. 247 are stirring, and he may perhaps change my brigade, and give me the 29th. " October 30. " My fate is settled, I am transferred to the 5th brigade, and get the 29th Queen's and 13th and 30th N. I. This cuts me out of Moultan : and I felt sorry at first ; for if the campaign in the north end in smoke and Moultan hold out, it will be cruelly mortifying. On the other hand, if Moultan surrender and Chutter Sing gain head, I am all right : all is in the hands of God. " Camp, Gunda-Sing-Wala, 4< October 23. " I rode over here this morning to General Cureton's camp, which is in the Punj ab, eleven miles from Ferozepore, excellent bridges of boats having been formed over both channels of the Sutlej. ... It was a very picturesque ride, on account of men and cattle, for Godby's brigade was on the march ; but the country is miserable except in patches round the wells, little better than a desert. They have only had two slight showers at Ferozepore this year. There is not a blade of grass to be seen, and the rain crops, on which the lower people depend, have entirely failed. . . . Camp is a pleasant life to me it is now exciting, and I feel as well up to fatigue as ever I did in my life. . . . We must hope that the Khalsa will show fight, and that we may push on to Cashmir. "November 2, 1848. " Here I am in J. G 's tent. I left Ferozepore at a quarter before four this morning on an elephant, attended by a couple of Suwars ; soon after daylight I came to a carriage and two fresh Suwars, and at the end of the third stage fresh Suwars and a horse for me. I R4 248 MEMOIRS, LETTERS, ETC. cantered off merrily, and found the Commander-in-Chief's camp nearer than I expected. The chief looks as young and vigorous as ever. He asked me to stay and march in with him, and so I dismissed the dak, with which I meant to return, though I had but a clean shirt, and was quite unprepared. On the 4th we sent a tent on for breakfast at Sobraon, and after going over the field of battle it began to be fearfully hot. . . . At three we started for this place. We saw a large wolf, some jackals, a few rock pigeon and black partridge, and quantities of hares, of which a few were bagged. We did not reach camp till dusk, having gone about forty miles and been ten hours on the elephants. The country far and wide, for scores and scores of miles, is of precisely the same character, an open plain, perfectly level, with scarcely a tree. . . . The villages are far apart, of mud, and of the poorest description ; each has its well, and around the well there is an oasis of cultivation, for the soil is a fine clay, and only wants irrigation to make it produce anything. The water is very near the surface, and, if the people were less poor and less supine, there is no doubt but that cultivation might be greatly extended. There is fault, however, I dare say, on the part of the Government. . . . We go in to Ferozepore to-morrow (6th), but shall not advance, I fear, for some days. Chutter Sing and Shere Sing are behind the Chenab, but have their foraging parties on this side, collecting revenue and grain. General Cureton has advanced to Eminabad to keep them in check. It is supposed that they will not fight on this side of the Jelum, but will show fight on the other side, where they will have the advantage of the hilly and difficult country, which is so much better known to them than to us CAMP. 249 " November 6. "At dinner yesterday, I observed the chief gnm-. ;:n A .1 A^Utx U X,, OF NEW WORKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE PUBLISHED BY LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, AND ROBERTS, 39, PATERNOSTER Row, LONDON. CLASSIFIED INDEX. Agriculture and Eural Affairs. Parry's (Admiral) Memoirs . Russell's Memoirs of Moore . 22 20 Bayldon on Valuing Rents, &c. . 6 Southey's Life of Wesley " Life and Correspondence 26 26 Cecil's Stud Farm .... 8 " Select Correspondence . 26 Hoskyns's Talpa .... 13 Loudon's Agriculture ... 17 Low's Elements of Agriculture . 17 Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography Strickland's Queens of England . Sydney Smith's Memoirs 26 27 26 Arts, Manufactures, and Archi- Symonds's (Admiral) Memoirs Taylor's Loyola .... " Weslev 27 27 tecture. Waterton's Autobiography and Essays 27 31 Bourne on the Screw Propeller . . 6 Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c. 6 " Organic Chemistry ... 7 Books of General Utility. Chevreul on Colour 9 Acton's Bread-Book .... 5 Cresy's Civil Engineering ... 9 Fairbairn's Information for Engineers . 10 ' Cookery- Book . Black's Treatise on Brewing . 6 6 G wilt's Encyclopaedia of Architecture . 11 Cabinet Gazetteer 8 Harford's Plates from M. Angelo . . 11 " Lawyer ...... 8 Humphreys's Parables Illuminated . 14 Cust's Invalid's Own Book 9 Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art . 14 Gilbart's Logic for the Million 11 " Commonplace- Book . . 14 Kbnig'R Pictorial Life of Luther . . 11 Hints on Etiquette How to "Nurse Sick Children . 12 13 Loudon's Rural Architecture ... 17 Hudson's Executor's Guide . 14 MacDougall's Theory of War . . 18 " on Making Wills 14 Malan's Aphorisms on Drawing . . 18 Kesteven's Domestic Medicine 15 Moseley's Engineering .... 21 Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia 16 Piesse's Art of Perfumery ... 23 Richardson's Art of Horsemanship , 23 Loudon's Lady's Country Companion . Maunder's Treasurv of Knowledge 17 19 Scharf s Date-Book of Events in Art . 24 " Biographical Treasury 19 Scrivenor on the Iron Trade . . .24 " Geographical Treasury 19 Steam-Engine,bv the Artisan Club . 6 " Scientific Treasury 19 Symington on the Beautiful ... 27 U re's Dictionary of Arts, &c. . . . 31 " Treasurv of History . NaturafHistory . 19 19 Piesse's Art of Perfumery 23 Biography. Pocket and the Stud .... Pvcroft's English Reading . 12 23 Arago's Lives of Scientific Men . . 5 Buckingham's (J.S.) Memoirs . . 7 Bunsen's Hippolytus .... 7 Recce's Medical Guide . Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 23 23 23 Crosse's (Andrew) Memorials . . 9 Riddle's Latin Dictionaries . 24 Gleig's Essays 11 Roget's English Thesaurus . 24 Rowton's Debater . Green's Princesses of England . . 11 Short Whist 25 Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopa-dia ! .' 16 Maunder's Biographical Treasurv . 19 Memoirs of James Montgomery '. . 19 Merivale's Memoirs of Cicero . . 19 Thomson's Interest Tables . Webster's Domestic Economy West on Children's Diseases . Willich's Popular Tables 28 32 32 32 Mountain's (Col.) Memoirs . . .21 Wilmot's Blackstone . 32 2 CLASSIFIED INDEX. Botany and Gardening. Hassall's British Freshwater Algae . 12 Hooker's British Flora .... 13 " Guide to Kew Gardens . . 13 " " " Kew Museum . . 13 Lindley's Introduction to Botany . .15 " Theory of Horticulture . . 15 Loudon's Hortus Britannicus . . 17 " Amateur Gardener . . .17 " Trees and Shrubs . .17 " Gardening . . . .17 " Plants 17 Schmitz's History of Greece . 24 26 26 26 26 26 26 27 27 28 28 31 32 32 32 7 &8 8 15 18 19 22 25 -5 25 13 13 25 2f 25 27 7 9 9 12 13 15 23 23 23 32 5 7 10 10 11 11 11 12 12 12 Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography " Lectures on French History . Sydney Smith's Works . Lectures Memoirs " Wesley Thirl wall's History of Greece . Thomas's Historical Notes . Thoi-nbury's Shakspeare's England Townsend's State Trials Turner's Anglo-Saxons . " Middle Aees . " Self-Instruction for Garden- ers, &c. 17 Pereira's Materia Medica ... 22 Rivers's Rose Amateur's Guide . . 24 "Wilson's British Mosses .... 32 Chronology. Blair's Chronological Tables ... 6 Brewer's Historical Atlas ... 7 Bunsen's Ancient Egypt ... 7 Calendars of English 'State Papers . 8 Haydn's Beatson's Index . . 12 Jaquemet's Chronology . . . .15 Nicolas's Chronology of History . . 16 Commerce and Mercantile Affairs, Gilbart's Treatise on Banking . . 11 Lorimer's "Young Master Mariner . . 15 Macleod's Banking 18 M'Culloch's Commerce and Navigation 18 Scrivenor on the Iron Trade . . 24 Thomson's Interest Tables . . . 28 Tooke's History of Prices . .28 Criticism, History, and Memoirs. Blair's Chron. and Historical Tables . 6 Brewer's Historical Atlas ... .7 Bunsen's Ancient Egypt . ' . .7 " Hippo! ytus .... 7 Burton's History of Scotland ... 7 Calendars of English State Papers . 8 Chapman's Gustavus Adolphus . . 8 Connolly's Sappers and Miners . . 9 Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul . 9 Fischer's Francis Bacon . , .10 Gleig's Essavs . ... 11 " Sacred History of the World . Vehse's Austrian Court . Wade's England's Greatness . Whitelocke's Swedish Embassy . Young's Christ of History Geography and Atlases. Brewer's Historical Atlas Butler's Geography and Atlases . 7 Cabinet Gazetteer Johnston's General Gazetteer M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary . Maunder's Treasury of Geography Murray's Encyclopaedia of Geography . Sharp's British Gazetteer Juvenile Books. Amy Herbert CleveHall Earl's Daughter (The) Experience of Life Hewitt's Boy's Country Book " (Mary) Children's Year . Katharine Ashton ManMFftPercival . . EKepping-StoaM to Knowledge for the Young ..... Medicine and Surgery. Brodie's Psychological Inquiries . Bull's Hints to Mothers . . . . " Management of Children . Copland's Dictionary of Medicine . Cust's Invalid's Own Book . Holland's Mental Physiology . " Medical Notes and Rejections How to Nurse Sick Children . Kesteven's Domestic Medicine Pereira's Materia Medica Reece's Medical Guide .... Richardson's Cold-water Cure West on Diseases of Infancy . Miscellaneous Literature, Bacon's (Lord) Works .... Brougham's (Lord) Acts and Bills Defence of Eclipse of Faith . Eclipse of Faith Greg's Political and Social Essavs Greyson's Select Correspondence . Gurnev's Evening Recreations Hassall's Adulterations Detected, &c. . Havdn's Book of Dignities Holland's Mental Physiology Gurney's Historical Sketches . . 1 Herschel's Essays and Addresses . . 2 Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions . . 5 Kemble's Anglo Saxons .... 5 Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia . . 6 Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays . 7 " History of England . . 7 " Speeches .... 7 Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works . 8 ' History of England . . 8 M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary . 8 Maunder's Treasury of History . . 9 Merivale's Historv of Rome . . .9 Roman Republic ... 19 ^rilner's Church Historv. ; 20 Moore's (Thomas) Memoirs, &c. . .20 Mure's Greek Literature . . 21 Normanbv's Tear of Revolution . . 22 Perry's Franks ..... 22 Riddle's Latin Dictionaries . . .24 Rogers's Essays from Edinb. Review . 24 Roget's English Thesaurus . . .24 CLASSIFIED INDEX. 3 Hooker's Kew Guides . . . .13 Howitt's Rural Life of England . . 13 11 Visits to lli-murkabli: 1'l.ices . 13 Hutton's 100 Years Ago . Jameson's Commonplace-Book . . 14 Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions . . 15 Johns's Land of Silence and of Darkness 15 Last of the Old Squires .... '2 MacauLiy's Critical and Hist. Essays . 7 " Speeches .... 7 Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works . 8 Maitland's Church in the Catacombs . 8 Martineau's Miscellanies ... 9 Moore's Church Cases . . . .21 Pycroft's English Reading . .23 Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary 23 Riddle's Latin Dictionaries ... 24 Rowton's Debater 24 Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul Cotton's Instruction in Christianity . Dale's Domestic Liturgy Defence of Eclipse of 1 'a ith . Discipline .... 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 25 12 12 13 13 14 14 25 14 14 14 15 15 25 11 25 15 15 7 18 IS 18 25 18 18 19 20 20 20 20 21 22 23 23 25 25 21 24 24 M 25 26 25 M 26 26 27 7 28 28 28 32 32 5 5 5 5 8 Earl's Daughter (The) . Eclipse of Faith .... Englishman's Greek Concordance Heb. & Chald. Concord. Experience (The) of Life H, -in ison's Light of the Forge Hook's Lectures on Passion Week Home's Introduction to Scriptures " Abridument of ditto - Hue's Christianity in Chin . Humphrey s's Parables Illuminated Ivors, by the Author of Amy Herbert . Jameson's Sacred Legends " Legends of the Madonna " on Female Employment . Jeremy Taylor's Works . Katharine Ashton .... Seaward's Narrative of his Shipwreck . 24 Sir Roger De Coverley . . . .25 Smith's (Rev. Sydney) Works . . 26 Southey's Common place- Books . . 26 " The Doctor, &c. . . . 26 Stephen's Essays 26 Stow's Training System . . . .27 Thomson's Laws of Thought . . 28 Townsend's State Trials .... 28 Yonge's English-Greek Lexicon . . 32 " Latin Gradus . . .32 Zumpt's Latin Grammar . . .32 Natural History in general. Catlow's Popular Conchology . . 8 Ephemera and Young on the' Salmon . 10 Garra'tt's Marvels of Instinct . . . 11 Gosse's Natural History of Jamaica . 11 Kirby and Spence's Entomology . . 15 Lee's Elements of Natural History . 15 Maunder's Natural History . .19 Turton's Shells of the British Islands . 28 Van der Hoeven's Handbook of Zoology 31 Waterton's Essays on Natural History . 3i Youatt's The Dog .... 32 Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther . Letters to my Unknown Friends . " on Happiness .... Lyra Germanica Macnaught on Inspiration Maguire's Rome Maitland's Church in the Catacombs . Margaret Percival Martineau's Christian Life . Hymns . . . . Merivale's Christian Records Milner's Church of Christ Moore on the Use of the Body " " Soul and Body " 's Man and his Motives Morning Clouds Neale's Closing Scene Powell's Christianity without Judaism . " on the Claims of Revelation " The Horse .... 32 One- Volume Encyclopaedias and Dictionaries. Elaine's Rural Sports .... 6 Brande's Science, Literature, and Art . 6 Copland's Dictionary of Medicine . 9 Cresy's Civil Engineering ... 9 Gwilt's Architecture . . . .11 Johnston's Geographical Dictionary . 15 London's Agriculture . . . .17 " Rural Architecture . . 17 " Gardening . . . .17 " Plants ... 17 " Confirmation Riddle's Household Prayers . Robinson's Lexicon to the Greek Tes- tament Saints our Example Sermon in the Mount . Sinclair's Journey of Life Smith's ( Sydney) Moral Philosophy . " (G.V.) Assyrian Prophecies " (G.) Wesleyan Methodism " (J.) Shipwreck of St. Paul Southey's Life of Wesley Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography Taylor's Loyola " Wesley ...... Theologia Germanica .... Thumb Bible (The) Tomline's Introduction to the Bible . Turner's Sacred History .... Young's Christ of History " Mystery .... " Trees and Shrubs . . .17 M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary . 18 " Dictionary of Commerce . 18 Murray's Encyclopaedia of Geography . 22 Sharp's British Gazetteer ... 25 Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. . . . 31 Webster's Domestic Economy . . 32 Religious and Moral Works. Amy Herbert 25 Bloomfield's Greek Testament . 6 Cal vert's Wife's Manual . . 8 CleveHall 25 Poetry and the Drama, Aikin's (Dr.) British Poets . " Poems Baillie's (Joanna) Poetical Works . Calvert's Wife's Manual .... 4 CLASSIFIED INDEX. , De Vere's Mar Carols .... 10 Cecil's Stable Practice .... 8 Estcourt's Music of Creation ... 10 ' Stud Farm S Fairy Family (The) 10 The Cricket-Field 9 Goldsmith's "Poems, illustrated . . 11 Davy's Fishing Excursions, 2 Series 10 L. E. L.'s Poetical Works ... 15 Ephemera on Angling , 10 Linwood's Anthologia Oxoniensis . 15 Book of the Salmon 10 Macaulay's Lays of Ancient Rome . 17 The Hunting- Field .... 12 MacDonald's Within and Without . 18 Idle's Hints on Shooting 14 " Poems . . . .18 Pocket and the Stud .... 12 Montgomery's Poetical Works . . 20 Practical Horsemanship .... 12 Moore's Poetical Works .... 20 Richardson's Horsemanship . 23 " Selections (illustrated) . . 20 " LallaRookh .... 20 Ronalds's Fly-Fisher's Entomology Stable Talk and Table Talk . . . 24 12 " Irish Melodies . . . .21 Stonehenge on the Greyhound 27 " National Melodies ... 21 Thacker's Courser's Guide . 27 " Songs and Ballads ... 20 The Stud, for Practical Purposes . 12 Reade's Poetical Works . . . .23 Shakspeare,by Bowdler . . . .25 Veterinary Medicine, &c, " British Poets .... 26 Cecil's Stable Practice .... 8 " Stud Farm g lomson s easonb, i us la e . . Hunting-Field (The) .... 12 20 Political Economy & Statistics. Dodd's Food of London . . . .10 Greg's Political and Social Essays . 11 M'Culloch's Geog. Statist. &c. Diet. . 18 " on the Horse's Foot Pocket and the Stud .... Practical Horsemanship .... Richardson's Horsemanship . Stable Talk and Table Talk . 20 12 12 23 12 " Dictionary of Commerce . 18 Willich's Popular Tables ... 32 Stud (The) Youatt's The Dog * , 32 " The Horse The Sciences in general and Mathematics. Voyages and Travels. Baker's Wanderings in Ceylon 5 Arago's Meteorological Essays . . 5 " Popular Astronomy ... 5 Earth's African Travels .... 6 g Bourne on the Screw Propeller . . 6 Burton's East Africa .... 6 " 's Catechism of Steam- Engine . 6 " Medina and Mecca . 8 " Great Eastern Steamer . . 6 Boyd's Naval Cadet's Manual . . 6 Carlisle's Turkey and Greece . Flemish Interiors 8 10 Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c. . 6 Forester's Sardinia and Corsica 11 " Lectures on Organic Chemistry 7 Halloran's Japan .... 11 Cresy's Civil Engineering ... 9 Hill's Travels in Siberia .... 12 De la Beche's Geology of Cornwall, &c. 9 De la Rive's Electricity .... 10 Grove's Correlation of Physical Forces . 11 Hinchliff s Travels in the Alps Howitt's Art-Student in Munich . " (W.) Victoria .... 12 13 13 Herschel's Outlines of Astronomy . . 12 Holland's Mental Physiology ... 12 Hue's Chinese Empire .... Hudson and Kennedy's Mont Blanc 14 14 Humboldt's Aspects of Nature . . 14 Hnmboldt's Aspects of Nature 14 " Cosmos . . . 14 M'Clure's North- West Passage . 22 Hunt on Light 14 Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia . . 16 MacDougall's Voyage of the Resolute . Osborn's Quedah ..... 22 Marcet's (Mrs.) Conversations . . 18 Maury's Earth and Man .... 19 Mprefl's Elements of Psychology . .21 Moseley's Engineering and Architecture 21 Pfeiffer's Voyage round the World Quatrefages's Rambles of a Naturalist . Scherzer's Central America . Seaward's Narrative .... 22 '23 24 24 Ovven's Lectures on Comp. Anatomy . 22 Fereira on Polarised Light ... 22 Peschel's Elements of Physics . . 22 Phillips's Fossils of Cornwall . .23 Snow's Tierra del Fuego .... Spottiswoode's Eastern Russia Von Tempskv's Mexico and Guatemala Weld's Vacations in Ireland . 26 31 32 " Mineralogy . . . .22 " United States and Canada . 32 " Guide to Geology ... 23 Portlock's Geology of Londonderry . 23 Powell's Unity of Worlds . . . 23 Works of Fiction. " Christianity without Judaism 23 Cruikshank's Falstaff .... 9 " Order of Nature . . . 23 Howitt's Tallangetta . 13 Smee's Electro-Metallurgy . . 25 Macdonald's Villa Verocchio . 17 Steam- Engine (The) 6 Melville's Confidence-Man . 19 Moore's Epicurean 21 Rural- Sports. Sir Roger De Coverley . Sketches (The), Three Tales . 25 25 Baker's Rifle and Hound in Cevlon . 6 Southey 's The Doctor, &c. 26 Berkeley's Forests of France . " . . 6 Trollope's Barchester Towers . 28 Elaine's Dictionary of Sports ... 6 Warden . . 28 ALPHABETICAL CATALOGUE of NEW WORKS and NEW EDITIONS PUBLISHED BI LONGMAN, BEOWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS, PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON. Miss Acton's Modern Cookery for Private Families, reduced to a System of Easy Practice in a Series of carefully-tested Receipts, in which the Principles of Baron Liebig and other eminent writers have been as much as possible applied and explained. Newly- revised and enlarged Edition ; with 8 Plates, comprising 27 Figures, and 150 Woodcuts. 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