JUju 
 
 ALASKA 
 
 D. 
 
 REPORT OF THE HON. VINCENT COLYER, UNITED STATES SPECIAL INDIAN 
 COMMISSIONER, ON THE INDIAN TRIBES AND THEIR SURROUNDINGS IN 
 ALASKA TERRITORY, FROM PERSONAL OBSERVATION AND INSPECTION 
 
 IN 1869. 
 
 UNITED STATES STEAMER NEWBERN, 
 Alaska Territory, November, 1869. 
 
 DEAR SIB : I received my appointment from the President as a mem 
 ber of the board of United States special Indian commissioners, on the 
 23d of July, 1869, while you were absent on your tour of inspection to 
 the southern Indian territory. I had already visited the Indians in 
 Eastern Kansas, Indian territory, Northern Texas, New Mexico, North 
 eastern Arizona and Southern Colorado, of which I have reported to 
 you. Knowing that the commission had arranged to visit the other 
 portions of the old Territories of the United Skates previous to my 
 appointment, and that Alaska was not included in your programme, and 
 that there were reported by General Halleck to be over sixty thousand 
 Indians in that Territory, I thought it clearly my duty to visit Alaska. 
 
 As neither letter nor telegram could reach you in time to secure a 
 reply that would be in season to allow me to accomplish anything after 
 receiving it, I had to leave without other communication than simply 
 notifying you of my departure for that Territory. 
 
 I crossed the continent by the Pacific railroad, and from San Fran 
 cisco went by steamer up the coast to the Straits of St. Juan del Fuca, 
 and thence by the inside passage to Alaska. Our steamer stopped at 
 Victoria, on Vancouver Island, and at the United States post on the 
 island of St. Juan. The earnest .desire of the people of British Colum 
 bia for annexation to the United States, and the manifest probability of 
 their obtaining their wishes at an early day, make it necessary that I 
 should give some account of the Indian tribes of that Territory. 
 
 THE NATIVES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA AND SOUTHEASTERN ALASKA 
 LIVING ON THE STRAITS BETWEEN VICTORIA AND SITKA. 
 
 It was the latter part of August (27th) when we entered the Straits 
 of Fuca. The morning was clear and mild, and the Indians were out in. 
 their wooden canoes fishing. The canoes were hewn from the solid log, 
 varying in size from fifteen to twenty feet, with a raised prow and stern. 
 The men were dressed like our fishermen, with the exception of the hat, 
 which was a broad brim running down in one unbroken convex sweep 
 from the flat top to the outer rim. It was decidedly Chinese in its form, 
 and was made, either of carved wood, thin and in one piece, or plaited 
 of grass and painted. Their dwellings along shore were constructed of 
 split boards'tied together, clapboard fashion, with strips of sapling on 
 upright poles. Both canoes and dwellings resembled the pictures given 
 in Vancouver's description of 1794. Some of their houses were of colossal 
 dimensions, one which I measured being 80 feet wide by 200 feet long. 
 They are subdivided within into smaller apartments for families. 
 
 There are about five thousand of these Indians scattered along the 
 
534 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 shores of these straits from Victoria to Portland Channel, the boundary 
 line between British Columbia and Alaska. 
 
 There are the Nanairnos, 400 ; Cape Mudge, 100 ; l^imkish, 200 ; Fort 
 Eupert, 100; Nahwittis, 200; Quatsinas, 150; Wykenas, 100; Bella 
 Bella, 300 ; Ketyagoos, 100 ; Hydahs, a large tribe extending up into 
 Alaska, 2,000 ; Kit Kats, 100 ; Ket a Mats, 200. (See Appendix A 1.) 
 
 THE SCENERY AROUND THESE INDIANS. 
 
 The scenery through Johnstone Straits, Finley Channel, Hickish 
 Narrows, Frazer's and Mackay's Eeach, is like that of the highlands on 
 the Hudson, only the mountains are loftier and more densely wooded. 
 
 It is one continued panorama of grand and beautiful pictures; moun 
 tains 2,500 to 4,000 feet high, rising directly out of the water at an angle 
 of from 45 to 70 ; covered at the base with a heavy growth of pine, 
 cedar, and spruce, and festooned between with a drapery of hanging 
 moss. The highest peaks are bald, with gigantic masses of dark slate 
 and granite towering up into the sky, and crowned with snow ; streams of 
 water glisten like lines of molten silver from the lofty ravines and break 
 into sparkling cascades at your feet. 
 
 The cold of the upper air, appropriate to this latitude, and the warmth 
 of the warm waters from the Japan Sea current below, make rapid con 
 densation so that c]0ud and sunshine alternate. At one hour fogs and 
 heavy clouds draggle their dreary mists over the gloomy abysses, and at 
 another the sun breaks through warm and golden, lighting up the quiet 
 stream, wooded hillside, and snow-capped peaks with life and beauty. 
 The retreating clouds, filled with the iris of the rainbow ; the wild moun 
 tain sheep, grazing on his elevated pastures ; the eagle, sweeping down 
 upon the leaping salmon ; and the Indian quietly cooking his evening 
 meal, complete the picture. 
 
 THE INDIANS OF ALASKA* TONGAS. 
 
 The first place at which we stopped in the Territory of Alaska was 
 Tongas, an old Indian village near which the United States govern 
 ment has built a new post. It is located on one of the islands on the 
 coast, near Portland Channel, the boundary line of British Columbia, 
 being the first practicable harbor found on this lower extremity of 
 Alaska. 
 
 INDIAN HOUSES AT TONOAS. 
 
 I regret that we cannot engrave the picture of this Indian village at 
 Tongas. The village contains about sixteen houses, which are well 
 built of hewn plank, one story high, and have both doors and windows, 
 the latter of glass, the sashes and glass for which are obtained from 
 white people trading on the coast. The houses are about 40 by 50 feet 
 square, and each house is subdivided within into smaller apartments 
 resembling ships 7 cabins.t 
 
 * See Appendix A. 
 
 t These interior apartments were, doubtless, copied by the Indians from ships' cabins, 
 as these were the kind of habitations mostly seen by the natives on board the ships 
 so frequently visiting their coast. By the way, this illustrates qiiite remarkably the 
 ability of these Indians to improve, and the quickness and skill at imitation, and the 
 map, drawn from memory only, by the old gentleman, Mr. Ebbitts, chief of the Tongas, 
 particularly illustrates it, marked in red on back, No. 5. In pictures Nos. 3 and 4, you 
 will see interior views of their houses. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 535 
 
 These cabins, or private sleeping rooms of one family, are seen in 
 Sketch No. 4, built on raised platform. They are as neatly finished as 
 most whaling ships' cabins, and have bunks, or places for beds, built 
 on the inside around the sides. They vary in size, being usually about 
 10 by 20 feet, with ceilings seven feet high. 
 
 Some of the young men are quite skillful mechanics, handling carpen 
 ters' tools with facility, and if you will closely examine the sketch you 
 will see that there is a floor and raised platform of boards neatly fas 
 tened together, below the private cabins or rooms spoken of, so that the 
 amount of carpenter work about one of these houses is considerable. 
 
 They have a large opening in the roof, through which the smoke of 
 their fire passes, as seen in No. 4. Usually, this opening in the roof is 
 covered with loose boards, which are placed on either side of the roof, 
 according as the wind may blow, always with an opening left, through 
 which the smoke passes out. Sometimes they build a large wooden 
 chimney, like a cupola, over this opening, but more commonly it is only 
 covered with boards, as described. (See Appendix B ; reports of H. G. 
 Williams, Leon Smith, and W. Wall.) 
 
 SUBSISTENCE AND TRADE OF THE EASTERN COAST INDIANS. 
 
 They subsist mostly on fish, which they catch in abundance with but 
 slight effort; salmon ulicum, or candle fish, a small fish somewhat like 
 sardines, full of oil, which when dried, will burn like a candle ; hence 
 its name. These fish they clean and dry in large quantities both for 
 their own use and for trading with the Indians in the interior for furs, 
 bear and deer meat, &c. (See Appendix 0; report of F. K. Louthan 
 and Frank Mahoney, on Trade with the Indians.) A regular trade is 
 thus kept up by them with the interior tribes, and they are exceedingly 
 jealous of any outside interference with it. Much of their antipathy 
 to white people going up their rivers arises from this cause; the 
 Coast Indians fearing that the whites will steal away the trade. 
 
 THEIR MERCANTILE ENTERPRISE. 
 
 Of this mercantile enterprise of the Alaska Indians, Mr. Louthan says: 
 
 Whilst the manners and customs of the whole Koloshan race (the tribes residing 
 on the southeastern coast of Alaska) are the same, there is a marked difference in the 
 wealth and condition of those tribes living on the main-land coast, over that of the 
 islanders. Position, custom, and numbers have given to the former the entire control 
 of the valuable trade with the interior. There are five of these great mainland tribes, 
 each warlike and powerful, and equally jealous of any encroachments on their peculiar 
 privileges. 
 
 Beginning north, we have the Copper River Indians, variously estimated from three 
 to four thousand strong. But little is known of this people. They are, however, 
 known to be very rich in furs. The early Russians told fabulous stories of the existence 
 of both gold and copper on this river, which is proved by the fact that the Indians are 
 at times seen to use these metals iii their ornaments. 
 
 Next in order, south, are the Klahinks, about one thousand strong. They live in 
 the great basin, or park, known as Behring Bay. between Mt. St. Eli as and Alt. Fair- 
 weather, and have a splendid communication with the interior by means of two long 
 fine rivers emptying into the bay. These Indians are gentle, hospitable, and kiud, but 
 are poor, having been neglected by the traders for the last three years. They are in 
 quick communication with a splendid fur-bearing country, and only require a market 
 to develop extensive resources. 
 
 Next in order are the Hoonid or Grass Sound Indians, two thousand strong. They 
 live on the eastern bank of the sound for a distance of sixty miles, and are the oil mer 
 chants of the coast, taking enormously large quantities of seal, dogfish, and oulican 
 oil, which they barter to their brethren all along the coast. These oils are used largely 
 by our Indians as an article of food. It is used by them as we use butter. 
 
 At the head of Chatham Straits, almost due north from Sitka two hundred and 
 
536 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 twenty miles, are the Chilkahts, at least ten thousand strong. They are a brave and 
 warlike people, " more sinned against than sinning." I have had much to do with 
 them, and ever found them honest, faithful, and kind. Their villages extend from the 
 mouth to a distance of seventy-live miles up the Chilkaht River. These Indians are 
 among the richest, if not the wealthiest, of our Coast Indians. Large quantities of the 
 most valuable furs are annually gathered and sold by them. They are in every way 
 independent. 
 
 Twenty miles north of Sitka, and east of Admiralty Island seventy-five miles, are the 
 Takoos, living at the head of Takoo Inlet, on the Takoo River. These Indians claim to 
 be richer in furs than any of the tribes around them. About the same quantity can be 
 got here as on the Chilkaht. Some idea may be gathered of the large trade at one time 
 done with them when I state, but a short time ago the Hudson's Bay Company made 
 their trade loose from the Russian-American Company fur taken in a single trip of 
 their steamer, over five thousand marten skins, and other valuable skins in proportion. 
 The Takoos number about the same as the Chilkahts, and are a proud and haughty race. 
 Gold is well known to exist anywhere along this river, but the Indians have, so far, 
 steadily refused to permit any development." (See Appendix C.) 
 
 PROVIDENT CARE IN PRESERVING THEIR FOOD. 
 
 You will notice in Sketch No. 4, a frame-work erected in the centre of 
 the cabin. On this rack of untrimmed sticks they hang their salmon 
 and other fish, to smoke and dry them over the fire. They then pack 
 them for use, in square boxes neatly made of yellow cedar, smoked, 
 oiled, and trimmed with bears' teeth, in imitation of the nails we use on 
 our trunks like the old brass nails of former years. 
 
 THEIR TASTE FOR ART IN CARVING AND PAINTING. 
 
 They are ornamented with figures, faces, &c., which plainly show a 
 Mongolian origin. This small sketch is like them. 
 
 Some of these Indian houses are quite elaborately painted on the 
 front, as seen in Sketch No. 3, the residence of Skillat's widow. Skillat 
 was former chief of the Stikine tribe of Kolloshans. The Stachine 
 tribe are at Wrangel, which place I will describe directly, one day's sail 
 further north. These paintings have an allegorical meaning, and fre 
 quently represent facts in the history of the chief or the tribe. 
 
 In front of the entrance there is usually a porch, built with railing, to 
 prevent the children from falling off, and you will notice the round hole 
 for the entrance. They are covered, inside, with heavy Avooden doors, 
 securely fastened within by large wooden bars, as if for safety against 
 attacks. The doors are usually about four feet in diameter, and their 
 circular form resembles the opening of the " tepe" or tents of the tribes of 
 the plains so nearly that the mind naturally concludes that the habit of 
 stooping to enter their houses was adopted in earlier ages, when the 
 tent was the habitation. The Pueblo Indians, in their adobe houses, in 
 New Mexico, require a stooping posture to enter their doors. 
 
 In front of most of the cabins of the chiefs, large poles, elaborately 
 carved, with figures imitating bears, sea-lions, crows, eagles, human 
 faces and figures, are erected. These are supposed to represent facts in 
 the history of the chiefs, as well as being heraldic symbols of the tribe. 
 By referring to Picture No. 1, you will see the poles standing in front 
 of the cabins; in another sketch not engraved is an enlarged copy of these 
 poles, and on No. 5 are some very curious colossal frogs, a bear, and 
 war-chief, with his "big medicine-dance" hat on. All of these things 
 show a great fondness for art, which, if developed, would bear good 
 fruits. It also shows that these Indians have the time, taste, and means 
 for other things than immediately providing the mere necessities of 
 existence. 
 
 In the carving of their canoes they display great skill, making them 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 537 
 
 entirely by the eye. They are as accurately balanced and beautifully 
 modeled as possible. A copy of a canoe, with a group of Indian women 
 dressed in their highly-colored blankets and calicoes, you will find in 
 Sketch No. 10, (not engraved in this edition.) 
 
 DRESS OF THE WOMEN. 
 
 The women dress neatly, being fond of bright- colored calico, muslins, 
 woolens, &c., as usual with Indians. They are quite pretty, and their 
 ignorance of any law regulating the relations between the sexes makes 
 their too open licentiousness have a less consciously degrading influence 
 on their outward, demeanor than with our white women of the same 
 degree of vice. 
 
 The old chief of the Tongas or "Tont-a-quans" tribe, Quack-ham, or 
 his English name, Captain Ebbitts, a sketch of whom you will find 
 marked No. 11, is an intelligent and kind-hearted old man. As we 
 were leaving his house, the daughters called to him as " he was going 
 with the Boston men," as they call all Americans, "not to drink any 
 whisky." This warning proved plainly enough that the Indian women, 
 like our own poor wives and daughters, fully appreciate the curse of 
 strong drink. (See Appendix D.) 
 
 HOW LIQUORS ARE BROUGHT INTO ALASKA. 
 
 Among other goods landed from our steamer, the United "States gov 
 ernment quartermaster's steamer Newbern, were a number of cases 
 of champagne, porter, ten barrels of ale, and five barrels of whisky, 
 rum, and brandy, directed to A. A. Q., post trader at Tongas. As the 
 order of President Johnson, under act of Congress, (see Appendix H,) 
 expresslyjcoinmanded that all distilled spirits should be sent to depart 
 ment headquarters at Sitka, subject to disposal of General Davis, I 
 inquired by what authority it was landed. The commander of the post 
 showed me the papers, which said it was "for the use of the officers of 
 the post? which he explained as being simply a " form of expression!" 
 As there were but four officers at this post, and the Indian village is 
 not more than five hundred yards from it, and the Indians do most of 
 their trading with this post sutler, I thought it clearly my duty to speak 
 of this. 
 
 PROXIMITY OF UNITED STATES POSTS AND INDIAN TILLAGES. 
 
 This brings me to consider the near proximity of the posts in Alaska 
 Territory to the Indian villages at Tongas, as well as at Wrangel, 
 Sitka, and Kadiak, the commander of the department has located the 
 posts within five hundred yards of the Indian villages, so that the soldiers 
 as well as some of the officers use them, as you can easily imagine. The 
 post at Tongas, a sketch of which I inclose, (not engraved,) is within 
 three hundred yards of the Indian village, (not engraved.) Though they 
 are on opposite sides of the island, the consequence is you cannot visit 
 one of these Indian villages without meeting some soldiers or sailors 
 wandering about. That their presence tends to demoralize the Indians, 
 and nowise better the soldiers, is undeniable. One or the other should 
 be removed. As the Indians are the oldest settlers, the post has been 
 placed there recently, and the Indians perfectly peaceable, I think the 
 post, and not the Indian village, should be removed. 
 
 In a communication which I received at Sitka, October 25, from the 
 
538 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 United States medical director of the department of Alaska, Dr. E. J. 
 Baily, lie says : " I am satisfied that little or nothing can be done until 
 they (the Indians of Alaska) are placed under more favorable influences. 
 A greater mistake could not have been committed than stationing troops 
 in their midst. They mutually debauch each other, and sink into that 
 degree of degradation in which it is utterly impossible to reach, either 
 through moral or religious influences." (See report, Appendix E.) 
 
 WRANGEL. 
 
 This village is about seventy miles north of Tongas, and located on 
 a tongue of land and curve in the shore of Wrangel Island. On the 
 opposite side of this curve, or on the other horn of the crescent, the 
 government post is located, about five hundred yards distant, with its 
 guns commanding the village. There are thirty-two houses in the 
 village and five hundred and eight inhabitants. Of these one hundred 
 and fifty-nine are men and three hundred and forty-nine are women 
 and children. (See Appendix Z.) Of the men about one-half are 
 capable of bearing arms, (as with us,) and they have a few old flint 
 lock muskets, of Eussian make, as they mostly live by trading with 
 the Indians of the interior. There is one company of United States 
 troops at the post. (An engraving of post of the Indian village at 
 Wrangel is inserted, No. 1.) 
 
 LIQUORS BROUGHT TO WRANGEL. 
 
 As I have reported at Tongas, so it was at Wrangel. A quantity 
 of porter and light wines, ten barrels of ale, and five barrels of distilled 
 spirits, (whisky, brandy, &c.,) were hoisted up from the hold of the 
 iNewbern, marked for Leon Smith, post trader at Wrangel. As I had 
 called the attention of the revenue officers to the violation of President 
 Johnson's order in landing the liquors at Tongas, the officer command 
 ing the post at Wrangel asked me my opinion of the business. I called 
 his attention to the wording of the papers permitting the shipment 
 of the liquors from San Francisco. It was the same as at Tongas for 
 the " use of the officers at the post." The captain read this, reflected a 
 moment, and then said that he would not permit it to land. The beer 
 and porter was landed and taken into Leon Smith's store, and the 
 whisky, brandy, rum, &c., was carried up to Sitka. 
 
 At Wrangel, as at Tongas, there is no medical attendance, nor care or 
 supervision of any kind whatever, other than military, over the Indians. 
 It was the same at Sitka, at Kadiak, and indeed all through the Terri 
 tory, until I complained of it to General Davis, when at my request he 
 promptly and most kindly provided medical supervision at Sitka and 
 Kadiak. 
 
 Wrangel Harbor and the Indian village are very picturesque and 
 interesting places. I made careful sketches of all objects of import 
 ance, which I inclose. 
 
 THE STYCH1NE RIVER. 
 
 As this river is the most important channel of trade with the interior 
 in southeastern Alaska, I arranged with Mr. Harry G. Williams, of Phila 
 delphia, who contemplated making an ascent of it, to give me an account 
 of the river and the condition of the Indians along its banks. This 
 he has done, and I take great pleasure in submitting it. (See Appendix 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 539 
 
 B.) As also a report on the same subject from Leon Smith, post trader 
 at Wrangel, and another on the Sty chine tribe and village at Wrangel, 
 by W. Wall, interpreter, will be found, marked Appendix B 2, B 3. 
 
 SITKA, 
 
 The present headquarters of the department, and former residence 
 of the Bussian governor. We were most cordially welcomed by General 
 Davis, and every assistance which both himself and the officers of the 
 department could be given to further the objects of our visit was 
 extended toward us. 
 
 The liquor received from Wrangel was landed and placed in charge 
 of the revenue officers, and the steamer Lincoln was dispatched 
 promptly by the collector of the port for the five barrels which had 
 been landed at Tongas. The promptness of sending for this liquor 
 was owing, in part, to the suspicion that a large quantity of liquor, in 
 addition to the five barrels landed, had been smuggled ashore as 
 molasses. This suspicion was unfounded. 
 
 LIQUOR, AFTER CONFISCATION, SOLD AT PUBLIC AUCTION IN SITKA. 
 
 A large quantity (nine hundred gallons) of pure alcohol, marked 
 "coal oil," and directed to the care of the post traders at Sitka, was 
 landed at Sitka from our steamer, the Newbern. This fraud was 
 detected by Inspector Andrew Keed, and the liquor was confiscated by 
 Collector Kapus. 
 
 Liquors thus confiscated are kept in the storehouse a certain length 
 of time, advertised, and then sold at public auction by the collector 
 of the port. Of course, so long as this practice prevails the law of Con 
 gress, as a means for preventing the Indians from getting liquor, is a 
 farce. For it is thus scattered broadcast over the Territory. 
 
 Medical Director Bailey, in his report (Appendix E) before alluded 
 to, says : " Whiskey has been sold in the streets by government officers at 
 public auction, and examples of drunkenness are set before them almost 
 daily, so that, in fact, the principal teaching they are at present receiving 
 is that drunkenness and debauchery are held by us not as criminal and 
 unbecoming a Christian people, but as indications of our advanced and 
 superior civilization. These Indians are a civil and well-behaved 
 people. They do not want bayonets to keep them in subjection, but 
 they do need honest, faithful, and Christian workers among them, who 
 will care for them, teach and instruct them in useful arts, and that they 
 are responsible beings. 
 
 MEDICAL ATTENDANCE FURNISHED BY GENERAL DAVIS. 
 
 Passing up the street at Sitka (there is but one) I met a crowd col 
 lected around an Indian girl. She was moaning, in great pain, and 
 lying uncared for on the sidewalk. I asked " why they did not take 
 her to the hospital," and was informed that " there was no provision 
 made for Indians at the hospital." General Davis happening to pass 
 at that moment gave me permission, and, assisted by two Indians, I 
 carried her to the United States hospital. She was placed in a wretched, 
 tumble-down part of the building, and medicine given her. The next 
 day General Davis humanely issued an order detailing Doctor J. G. 
 Tonner to act as surgeon in charge of the Indians near the town. 
 On my return from the west, six weeks later, Dr. Tonner gave me a 
 
540 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 copy of his own excellent first report on the sanitary condition of the 
 Sitka tribe of Indians, which will be found in the Appendix E. 
 
 The Indian village up to this time had received no sanitary super 
 vision. Its proximity to the town would seem to require this for the 
 Indian, without considering the claims of humanity. 
 
 As the Indians supply the town with most of its provisions, (see 
 report of ex-Mayor Dodge, Appendix L,) the condition of the place 
 where they met the whites at the gate of the stockade dividing the 
 two peoples attracted my attention. It was a wet, filthy, broken down 
 old shed, and as soon as the, commanding general's attention was 
 called to it he ordered a new and convenient market-house built. 
 
 The Sitka Indians, who number about 1,250 souls, are admitted through 
 the gate of the town at sunrise and move around at pleasure through 
 the day. Many of them are idle and waste their time in gambling in 
 the recesses of the houses of the whites. They paint their faces with 
 black and red, looking hideously. 
 
 EAGERNESS OF THE SITKA INDIANS TO IMPROVE. 
 
 Hearing a difference of opinion concerning the willingness of the 
 Indian to change his habits, I called a meeting of their chiefs at the 
 headquarters of the commanding general of the department of Alaska 
 on last Tuesday. General Davis, Col. Brady, Dr. Bailey, and Captain 
 Mclntyre, of the army, and Madame, the widow of Michaloff, late 
 chief of the Sitkas, were present. Messrs. David Shirpser, Sukoff, 
 and William Phillips acted as interpreters. The object of the meeting 
 was to ascertain if the Indians would care to have schools established 
 among them ; a sanitary supervision exercised over their village, and a 
 hospital and medical attendance provided for them. To all of these 
 proposals the Sitkas gratefully assented, promising to use their best 
 endeavors to secure the attendance of their children and unemployed 
 grown people at schools, and to find help to aid the sanitary superin 
 tendent in his efforts to cleanse and improve their village. They con 
 sented also to a grant of land on the hill-top for the erection of a new 
 market for their benefit and the people's convenience, and agreed to 
 remove such of their dead as might be in the way of the new enter 
 prise. When the question was asked if they wished for a freer traffic 
 in whisky for their tribe, they said most emphatically that they did 
 not, and gave that as the cause of a riotous disturbance in their village 
 the night before. The interview was a most agreeable one, and " pot 
 latching" or entertainment was not resorted to. 
 
 The chiefs reprobated the habit of some of their u more ignorant," as 
 they called them, Indians painting their faces; and for the habit of gam 
 bling and loafing, they gave the same reason as that given by the 
 Navajoes in New Mexico, that the young men wouldnot obey the chiefs, 
 and that the chiefs had no power to enforce their orders. They said 
 they would be glad if our officers would break up the gambling habits, 
 which Colonel Brady, commanding the post, with his characteristic 
 energy and ability, proceeded the next day to do. 
 
 UNPUNISHED MURDER OF A CHILCAT INDIAN. 
 
 On my way up in the steamer, Mr. Frank K. Louthan, post trader at 
 Sitka, told me of the killing of a Chilcat Indian, visiting Sitka, by a 
 young man named J. C. Parker, employed as clerk in his store. " The 
 Indian," he said, " was in company with several others, standing leaning 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 541 
 
 against a show case in his store, in March last. The Indian, in leaning 
 on the glass, either intentionally for the purpose of stealing, as Parker 
 claims, or accidentally, as many assert, broke the glass. Parker, who 
 it is claimed has an old grudge against Indians, came toward the In 
 dian, who, becoming alarmed, immediately ran out of the store toward 
 the Indian village. Parker stepped back into the store, took a Henry 
 repeating rifle, followed after the Indian and shot him, so that he soon 
 died." On my arrival at Sitka I inquired of General Davis what had 
 been done with Parker, as I had been introduced to him as United States 
 inspector of customs at Tongas. The general told me that Parker had 
 been tried by military court-martial and acquitted, and frankly handed 
 me a copy of the trial. I introduce it in the Appendix E. In looking 
 over the evidence of Mr. Louthan, in that trial, it will be seen that he 
 knew " nothing," while in his letter to me, in Appendix 0, he distinctly 
 states in writing, that this young man killed the Indian. 
 
 As this report was going to press I received a letter from Dr. J. G. 
 Towner, at Sitka, informing me that this same miscreant, Parker, had 
 shot another Indian in the streets of Sitka, in the early part of January, 
 1870. It seems that Parker had been relieved as revenue officer at Ton 
 gas and appointed policeman at Sitka, and one morning early, seeing 
 an Indian passing around a corner, deliberately took up his gun and 
 shot. As in the first instance, Parker trumps up a story, the Indian 
 looked as though he was about to steal something. 
 
 This is the legitimate fruit of the farcical military court-martial re 
 ported in Appendix E. And it is because there is, apparently, no cessa 
 tion of abuses like the above, that it becomes our duty to state unre 
 servedly many disagreeable facts which we would otherwise gladly 
 have omitted. 
 
 KADIAK. 
 
 On the 18th of September we left Sitka for Kadiak ; Generals Davis, 
 Thompkins, and Ihrie, with Judge Storer and Mr. Murphy, editor of 
 Alaska Times, and other officers and gentlemen as fellow-passengers. 
 
 We found a center for a large number of Indian villages. The Indians 
 come in their skin canoes, or bidarks, from all parts of the island and ad 
 jacent coast to trade. For their names and numbers, see Appendix M. 
 
 There are only three traders at Kadiak, but these supply the natives 
 with goods at fair prices. The practice of the old Eussian fur company 
 was to advance supplies to the Indians, and take their furs the succeed 
 ing season for pay. This habit is still popular with the natives, and in 
 the hands of selfish traders works as injuriously with the Indians as with 
 every one. One of the methods used was for the trader to purchase 
 and own all the bidarkas or skin canoes, without which the native can 
 not catch the sea otter, or fish. 
 
 The residents at Kadiak are mostly Creoles, or half-breed Indian and 
 Eussian, while in nearly all the other villages in the vicinity they are 
 full-blooded Aleutes. 
 
 WOOD ISLAND. 
 
 At Wood Island, about five miles from the village of Saint Paul, or 
 Kadiak proper, there is a settlement of Aleutes, who are employed by 
 the American-Eussian Ice Company of California. As this company 
 have extensive ice houses on the island, and rely for nearly all their 
 heavy labor upon the Aleutes, I was glad to hear the superintendent say 
 
542 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 that the company intended to do considerable toward advancing the 
 natives here in comfort and education. There is much need of it. 
 Little or no care is shown in the laying out of the village, construction 
 of the dwellings, or education of the people. With the means at the 
 command of this company, the reputation of its officers for liberality, 
 and the advantage which must return to it in a generous policy toward 
 its employes, one can readily believe that it will soon effect the much 
 needed reforms. 
 
 At present the houses are small, poorly ventilated, carelessly tossed 
 together huts. 
 
 There is no school-teacher, missionary, resident physician, or medical 
 supervision. The only store on the island belongs to the ice company, 
 and the natives can trade there, or row over to Kodiak for their sup 
 plies. The prices charged for goods was about one-third more than at 
 San Francisco. 
 
 Below Kadiak about a mile, we found a settlement of Kolosh Indians, 
 from the neighborhood of Sitka. They were living in well- construe ted 
 log houses, built above the ground, with glass windows aud battened 
 doors and shutters. They said that they were captured when young in 
 the waters of British Columbia, sold into slavery by their captors, and 
 brought down here by the Eussians to save their lives. It is said to be 
 the practice, occasionally, for tribes to offer up living sacrifices on the 
 death of their head chiefs. General Davis is said to have saved the 
 life of one young slave from this fate, and the Russians appear to have 
 done the same thing in the case of these Indians. 
 
 As the Aleutes build their houses mostly under ground, these high 
 and dry, stout and clean log houses of the Kolosh Indians contrasted 
 favorably for the latter. It illustrates what I have elsewhere stated, 
 that the Kolosh Indians, if properly cared for, surpass the Aleutes. 
 
 The natives from the neighboring villages at Kadiak earnestly im 
 plored me to visit them, and I deeply regretted my inability, for want of 
 time, to do so. They said that they had many sick and poor at their 
 houses, and now that the Eussian government had ceased its paternal 
 care over them, they had no one to see to their wants. This I found 
 to be a general source of complaint along the coast of the Aleutian 
 Islands. 
 
 MONOPOLIES. 
 
 Several of the large American trading firms, eager to obtain the 
 trade of these poor people, are endeavoring, with unscrupulous energy, 
 to assume control over them, but as there is no supervising power with 
 proper responsibility to whom they are to account for any abuses, the 
 Aleutes would be wholly at their mercy. 
 
 Messrs. Hutchinson, Kohl & Co., who bought whatever rights the old 
 Eussian company may have had left when the Territory came into our 
 possession, have assumed the largest amount of control over the Aleutes, 
 but at Kadiak, Bellskoffsky, Unalaska, and St. Paul Island, where I 
 personally inspected the operations of this firm, and at other places 
 where I had evidence from reliable witnesses, I found no indications of 
 any other relationship than that of traders with the Indians. I would 
 not have referred to them here but that a bill was passed through one 
 of the houses of Congress last year, and similar acts are now pending 
 there, which virtually place the Indians of Alaska, and reduce them 
 to a condition of serfdom, in the keeping of this or another large com 
 mercial firm. For the sake of humanity, I trust this will not become a 
 law. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 543 
 
 Before leaving Kadiak Island we were destined once more to see the 
 workings of " pay-day in the army. 77 It was the same here as down in the 
 Cherokee country, at Fort Wiugate, and at Sitka. The day after the men 
 were paid many of them were beastly drunk, and while in that condi 
 tion the natives had a hard time of it. The officers tried in vain to re 
 strain them. I passed by one Creole cabin at Kadiak, from the inte 
 rior of which issued the shouts of the drunken soldiers, while at the 
 porch stood a little Indian girl the very picture of despair and distress. 
 
 The day after the paymaster left, one drunken soldier stabbed another 
 and came near killing him. The commissioners will please bear in 
 mind that these soldiers are the only police or representatives of law 
 and order there are in the Territory. When they act in this way it is 
 easy to conceive in what a condition the people must be. 
 
 OUKAMACK ISLAND. 
 
 Ascertaining from a trader that there was a small band of Aleutes on 
 Oukamack Island, who were likely to starve to death this winter if some 
 one did not visit them and supply their necessities, I applied to Gen 
 eral Davis for provisions to help them, and, as usual, the general gen 
 erously responded. (See Appendix Z.) 
 
 Captain David Evans, of the United States revenue steamer Lincoln, 
 with characteristic kindness, sailed nearly thirty miles out of his course 
 to stop there. 
 
 Oukamack is a large island destitute of wood, though covered with 
 rich verdure, and lies southwest of Kadiak about two hundred and 
 twenty miles. It is said to have been a penal colony under the Eus- 
 sians, and is now chiefly famous for its marmot robes, which are worn 
 so much by the Aleutes. 
 
 The chief, a short, stout, intelligent-looking man, came out to the bay 
 to meet us in his " bidarka," and seemed very anxious at our arrival. 
 The Indians are so entirely at the mercy of large ships' crews arriving 
 on their coast that it is no wonder they are solicitous. On landing and 
 making known our errand they were overjoyed. One venerable Aleute, 
 too feeble to rise, gently pulled my face down to his, and then touched 
 first one .cheek and then the other to his, pointing upward and saying, 
 " Jesus Christus." 
 
 I gave them a new American flag, which they run up on a flag-staff 
 near at hand, with cheers. There were over a hundred of them, with a 
 native priest at their head, who reads Eussian. They had plenty of 
 salmon and squirrels, but nothing else not a gun, axe, or tool of any 
 sort, or piece of twine, or any useful thing. They said that the old 
 Eussian American Fur Company, for whom they formerly worked, came 
 and stripped them of everything when they left. 
 
 They were intelligent 'and industrious, and if some enterprising and 
 just business man were to go there and set up a salmon preserve or ice 
 house, (there are two large lakes of clear, fresh water,) he would 
 doubtless make money, and could benefit these worthy people. 
 
 From Oukamack Island we went to Bellskoffsky, passing Ounyi and 
 the famous cod fisheries on our way. Some of the officers of the 
 steamer said that on their former trip, in passing these fishing banks, 
 last season, there were over thirty vessels engaged in the business. 
 
 BELLSKOFFSKY. 
 
 At Bellskoffsky we found the natives about to build a new church, 
 after a design which they had sent for from San Francisco, California. 
 
544 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 They were paying for its erection themselves, in sea-otter skins, thirty 
 of which, worth twenty-five dollars each, gold, they had already con 
 tributed. This shows their ability to support themselves and bear tax 
 ation. There were two stores at this place, Hutchinson, Kohl & Co., 
 and the American Russian Ice Co. The village is badly located, on a 
 plateau close to the sea. The anchorage is exposed to the high winds 
 from three-quarters of the compass. There is a better harbor, west of 
 this, near at hand. 
 
 From thence we sailed to Unalaska, where I had the pleasure of 
 meeting Mr. L. A. LaGrange, to whom I am indebted for the account of 
 Unalaska. (See Appendix Q.) 
 
 ST. PAUL'S ISLAND THE LANDING. 
 
 We arrived at the island of St. Paul, in the Behring Sea, on the morn 
 ing of the 8th of October, 1869. A strong current to the westward car 
 ried us out of our reckoning over twenty miles. 
 
 As we dropped anchor in Southwest Bay, the wind died away and 
 there was a light surf breaking on the beach. There is no harbor on 
 either St. Paul or St. George's Island, and vessels have to wait upon 
 the course of the winds to make successful landings. There is good 
 anchorage in several bays, and so long as the winds remain favorable, 
 vessels can load and discharge cargo without difficulty. Captains have 
 to keep watchful care, however, to avoid being caught in unfavorable 
 gales. 
 
 Along the shore of St. Paul's Island the fur-seals were gathered in 
 great herds, called rookeries. They were evidently excited at the 
 approach of our steamer, and t^eir bellowing resembled the sheep and 
 cattle in the great sale markets near our large cities. The noises were 
 varied. The young pups at times bark like a dog, though their more 
 common cry resembles the bleating of a lamb ; the older ones bellow like 
 a cow. As their motion is slow over the ground, and the animals smell 
 strong, they are not unlike a herd of swirie, though much less offensive, 
 and incomparably more attractive and interesting. 
 
 While the officers from the island were assorting their letters and 
 exchanging congratulations with their friends on board our steamer, the 
 captain lowered a quarter boat, and arranged for the passage of the 
 interpreter, Colonel Wicker, and myself, to the shore. On our way thither 
 the young seals assembled around us in large numbers. They appeared 
 delighted at the presence of the boat, the movement of the oars, and the 
 fluttering of our United States revenue flag, and after looking at us 
 with their dark hazel eyes, large and beautiful as those of the gazelle, 
 raising their heads erect and stretching their necks as far out of the 
 water as they could, they would dive down onty to again appear and 
 take another look. At last they got into regular order and motion on 
 either side of us, turning somersaults like porpoises, and, forming an 
 escort, accompanied us to the shore. 
 
 PRIVATE INTERVIEWS WITH THE ALEUTES. 
 
 Having provided myself with an interpreter in whose ability, honesty, 
 and truthfulness I could rely, while the officers walked up to headquarters 
 on the island, I went into the cabins of the Aleutes. As this interpreter 
 had previously resided on the island, the Aleutes warmly welcomed us, 
 and were at once very frank in their communications. They said that 
 they were doing about as in years gone by ; that they were now killing 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 545 
 
 seals three times a week on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays ; that 
 they usually killed between two and three thousand on each of these 
 days, or about eight thousand per week ; that there were at the present 
 time about sixty thousand skins in salt on the island; that these skins 
 were stored in four salt-houses on four different points on the island ; 
 that one of these salt-houses was near at hand ; another a short distance 
 across the village, on Southeast Bay ; a third about five miles to the 
 northwest of the village, on Southwest Bay; and the fourth fifteen miles 
 to the northeast, on Northeast Point. As the revenue officer in charge 
 on the island, in coming ashore with us in the long-boat, had said that 
 there were only thirty thousand seals killed this season, and only that 
 number of skins now on the island, the above statement of the Aleutes, 
 doubling this amount, arrested my attention. 
 
 The Aleutes further said that they received forty cents per seal for 
 killing, skinning, &c., and that they usually averaged fifty skins per 
 day to each man, though experts could capture one hundred animals ; 
 that they received pay either in goods from the store or in cash, as they 
 chose. The killing commences some years as early as June, and con 
 tinues in a fragmentary way during July, and is at its height in August, 
 September, and October, during which latter two months by far the 
 larger number of skins are taken. It will be seen by the above that 
 the season averages not more than sixteen weeks, and, at these rates, an 
 able-bodied Aleute can support his family comfortably. 
 
 THE ALEUTES. 
 
 There are about two hundred and fifty natives on St. Paul's Island, 
 and one hundred and twenty-five on St. George. Of the two hundred 
 and fifty on St. Paul, not more than fifty are relied on as active hunt 
 ers. The women assist liberally, both in carrying the skins to the salt- 
 houses and in waiting on the men, carrying water, &c. All the Aleutes 
 are nominal members of the Eusso-Greek church. A few of the more 
 intelligent can read and write, but these are very few. All of them 
 are intelligent, peaceable, generally industrious, and ambitious to im 
 prove. 
 
 There are about forty houses, or huts, built of turf and grass on a frame 
 work of timber, like the sketch opposite. They are about twenty feet 
 long by fifteen feet wide, with roofs not over seven feet high. They 
 resemble the huts our soldiers erected for winter quarters during the 
 war, and, like them, while warm and comfortable, are often over-crowded, 
 and lack both light and ventilation. The light is admitted through a 
 transparent skin or bladder, and the door- ways are usually so small and 
 low that you have to stoop to pass through them. The furniture is 
 scanty : a few wooden chairs or stools, a broad bunk of boards raised 
 about a foot from the ground, on which is usually laid a mattress of 
 grass or straw, with a blanket or two for sleeping ; two or three mar 
 mot-skin frocks from Oukamok Island ; some Behring Sea duck-skin 
 shirts; water-proof jackets, made of the intestines of the seal ; a harpoon, 
 bunch of arrows and bow for sea-otter hunting; occasionally a flint-lock 
 musket, and a copy of the Eusso-Greek and Aleutian Island dialect trans 
 lation of St. Matthew's Gospel, comprehend the whole of their posses 
 sions. 
 
 The Aleutes were silent at first when I inquired if they were treated 
 kindly by their employers, though they frankly acknowledged that 
 they were better off than when under the rule of the Eussian Fur Coin- 
 35 i A 
 
546 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 paiiy, and their houses were improved, but as that was a condition of 
 serfdom it was not saying much. 
 
 The price they paid for goods and provisions was not high, consider 
 ing the distance they were brought, it being about one-third more 
 than at San Francisco. 
 
 Several of the children could play skillfully on the accordeon, and this 
 I found to be a favorite instrument among them. The women are very 
 handy with the needle, some of their embroidery and sewing being as 
 good as that done by any. 
 
 MONOPOLIES. 
 
 The meu said there were two sets of employers for whom they worked 
 on the island, though of late they had put the seal skins of both firms 
 in one store-house, and all things appeared to be in common. These 
 two firms obtained from Mr. McCullough, late Secretary of the Treas 
 ury, permission to place two men on the islands, ostensibly to take care 
 of their buildings only. All other persons or firms are forbidden to land, 
 the act of Congress of last year expressly prohibiting the killing of any 
 fur-seals. (See Appendix X.) 
 
 This apparent partiality in favor of the two above-named firms pro 
 vokes wide-spread dissatisfaction on the Pacific coast, and probably ac 
 counted for a great deal of the scandal, so general among the people 
 out there, in regard to the reported irregularities supposed to be prac 
 ticed on those islands. 
 
 Having noted the above statements of the Aleutes, I left them and 
 went to call on the officers and present my letter of introduction from. 
 General Davis and authority from the President. I met the lieutenant, 
 the revenue officer in charge on the island, in company with Colonel 
 Frank W. Wicker, in the salt-house. They had just come down from 
 headquarters. Colonel Wicker asked the lieutenant how many skins 
 were in that salt-house. I understood the lieutenant to say, in reply, about 
 twenty-eight thousand. Colonel Wicker then asked if that was the 
 only house in which skins were stored. The lieutenant replied that 
 there was one other at the other side of the village, in which there was 
 about two thousand skins. Colonel Wicker then said, "And that is all 
 there are at present on the island ? " The lieutenant answered, " Yes.' 7 
 It was then near dark and we left the store-house, took our yawl and 
 went on board the steamer. 
 
 The wide discrepancy between these two statements of the lieutenant 
 and the Aleutian Islanders caused me to report the same to Colonel 
 Wicker, and that there might be no misunderstanding I put them 
 in writing and officially addressed the note to the colonel. 
 
 It had been our intention to leave the next morning, but these con 
 tradictory statements caused the colonel and Captain Evans to remain 
 another day and make an examination of the island. 
 
 The next morning, Saturday, October .9, we landed through a very 
 heavy surf, and Colonel Wicker commenced making his examinations, 
 asking me to assist in the measurements, the lieutenant in charge of 
 the revenue on the island and Captain Evans, of the Lincoln, being 
 present. We measured one pile, carefully counted the number of skins 
 in it, took that as a standard, and then measured carefully the other 
 piles. 
 
 THREE SAILORS DROWNED. 
 
 While we were engaged in examining the two houses near the 
 village, word came that two vessels, a schooner and a bark, were hover- 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 547 
 
 ing off the island. This called away Captain Evans. Colonel Wicker 
 and myself completed the measurements. We had hardly finished this 
 part of our work before we heard the cry that one of our boats with a 
 crew of five men in it was capsized in the surf, and we hurried down to 
 the beach only to see them struggling helplessly in the surf an eighth 
 of a mile away. Captain Evans and a crew of ten volunteer Aleutes 
 were vainly endeavoring to get near them in the only boat at hand. 
 Above the roar of the tumultuous seas could be heard the piteous cries 
 of the drowning men, and there was no adequate means at hand to save 
 them. The Aleutes, after several narrow escapes from swamping, gave 
 up the effort, and, rowing behind the ledge of rocks toward which, the 
 drowning men were drifting, leaped from their boat, and at the risk of 
 their lives went through the breakers and brought the bodies ashore. 
 
 The officers of the government and the agents of the traders on the 
 island were unremitting in their efforts to save the lives of the men, 
 but three of them were dead, and we had great difficulty in restoring to 
 life the two others. 
 
 THE FUR-SEALS. 
 
 This painful incident occupied us for several hours, and it was afternoon 
 before we were able to start across the island to visit " Southwest Bay 
 House," five miles distant. Our party was Colonel Wicker, Joseph, the 
 interpreter, an Aleute of the island as guide, and myself. We walked 
 over, and found the path led along by the shore through half a dozen large 
 seal rookeries. From a count and measurement we made we must have 
 passed by on this shore, five miles long, nearly a million of seals, and yet 
 this is not one-half of the space they occupy on St. Paul's Island. They 
 were of all sizes, from the young pup, about as big as a very large cat, to the 
 old males, as large as a cow. Their color varies from a gray-brown of the 
 old ones to a dark- brown in the young pups. The females seem shorter 
 in the neck, and had the wide pelvis common to the sex. They meas 
 ure, by guess, about five feet in length. The male seal is much larger, 
 measuring seven or eight feet in length, and weighing over a thousand 
 pounds. Some of these were on guard, others were in the water. I 
 saw nothing of that systematic herding of families by the old males 
 referred to by the Russian authorities, probably because it was so late 
 in the season. The bachelors, as the young males of four or five years 
 are called, were swimming along shore, and moving with the crowd of 
 old and young on the plateaus above. Some of them could be seen for 
 half a mile on the hill-tops inland, three or four hundred feet above the 
 sea. These plateaus extend from the base of the hills to the sea, a dis 
 tance of five hundred yards. As the islands are volcanic, the sand is 
 broken at intervals with black volcanic rock cropping out. The seals 
 appear to like these stones, and clambered over them with great facility,, 
 considering the peculiar formation of their flippers. The assertion .that 
 the fur-seal eats but little food from June to September may be true ;; 
 certainly there was little or no offensive excrement even in October,, 
 when I believe it is acknowledged that they do get some food from >the- 
 water. 
 
 There were myriads of young pups along shore and in the water, ^nd! 
 they are most beautiful animals. They will nctr always run at your, 
 approach, though generally, if they are between ypu,#nd the water, they 
 will hurry off to the water. We saw but few sea-lions. Our guide in- 
 ' formed us that they frequented the northeast point more, though there 
 had not been as many there as usual. The, AJ.eut.es seemed to regard. 
 
548 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 their absence as an ill omen. It seems that some years since all the 
 seals left these Pribilov islands and went to Behringand Copper islands, 
 on the Russian coast. As the Russians reserved these two islands in 
 the sale of Alaska, there is some solicitude lest the seals should get 
 frightened away and go there again. The old sea-lions are regarded as 
 the pioneer or picket guards of the fur-seal, and their absence is looked 
 upon with distrust. 
 
 The skin of the sea-lion, as well as the flesh, is highly prized the 
 former for covering bidarkas or canoes, and the latter for food. These 
 huge animals are usually killed with a musket ball. 
 
 The seal pup is born usually in the months of July and early part of 
 August, about a fortnight after the mothers have arrived on the island. 
 
 The males arrive about the middle of June, and the yearling pups fol 
 low their mothers the latter part of July. The young pups are said to 
 be in no hurry to go into the water, the parents having to force them in 
 at first, when their elder brothers, the bachelors, take charge of them 
 and teach them to swim. 
 
 In killing the seal, the two and three-year old male pups are chosen, 
 both for the quality of their fur, lightness of the pelt, and to preserve 
 the supply. The hunters get between the herd and the water, which is 
 "a very easy thing to do, and drive them a short distance inland toward 
 the salt-houses, when they select their animals, and with a hard wooden 
 -club tap them a light blow on the nose or head, and so kill them. Care 
 has to be taken in the driving not to overheat the animals, so as to 
 loosen the fur and ruin the skin ; generally they are allowed to rest 
 awhile before the killing commences. The guide explained to us that 
 in the skinning all the Indians had a common interest, each Aleute doing 
 his best and sharing the receipts ; the chief receiving an extra portion. 
 
 On our way we passed a number of the slaughter places. They were 
 much nearer "the rookeries and the shore than the descriptions, and the 
 much-talked-of necessary precautions against frightening the animal, 
 would lead you to suppose. In some cases they were not a hundred 
 yards from the rookeries, and the dead bodies were within easy reach of 
 the rambling bachelor seals. Large quantities of meat were wasted, and 
 in many instances even the fat was not cut oif. The meat of the seal is 
 of excellent flavor I should think quite equal to mutton. Our sailors 
 eat it with relish, and I have no doubt that it could be salted, preserved, 
 shipped in casks, and soon find a market. As it now lies rotting on the 
 fields, the smell is most offensive, and as one of the slaughter pens is 
 immediately near the village, the marvel is that it has not bred a con 
 tagious disease. 
 
 In some places where these seals have been thus killed, and the car 
 casses allowed to rot for many years, I should think the soil would be 
 as valuable a fertilizer as guano. The great rank grass grows above 
 these slaughter places in rich luxuriance. As ballast it might pay to 
 transport to the southern ports. 
 
 We found quite a large lot of skins in this " South west Bay" house, 
 
 and the guide assured us that the building had been full and emptied 
 
 - about a month before, the skins having been carried on board a steamer. 
 
 The skins were packed in piles with the fur turned inwards, and salt 
 put in between each skin. After being allowed to remain awhile, they 
 are taken up, refolded, and with fresh salt made ready for shipment. 
 
 A large surf boat, made of the skins of the sea-lion, is used to carry 
 them out to the vessels. 
 
 On our return we passed by a lake of beautiful clear, cold water, from 
 which the natives obtain the supply for their village nearly a mile 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 549 
 
 distant. Half of this distance they carry it in boats by water. When 
 St. Paul Island and its immense source of income is properly cared for 
 by our government, an aqueduct of simple construction shotild be built 
 to convey this water to the town. 
 
 Therewas.no sclied!* worth the name on the island. The Russian 
 foreman of one of the traders professed to call a class *of five or six 
 together at irregular hours ; but I found he thought but little of it, and 
 the natives regarded it of still less value. They asked for schools and 
 teachers earnestly. 
 
 The priest, who officiates in a neatly-built church, receives one hundred 
 and thirty dollars per annum. He is not in orders, and hardly ranks as 
 a deacon in the church. The priest from Unalaska occasionally comes 
 up and administers the sacrament. 
 
 The chiefs, of whom there are two, get forty dollars a month extra pay, 
 and the Avorkmen are divided into three classes of different degrees of 
 expertness or character. Thieving and misdemeanors other than drunk 
 enness are unknown among the Aleutes. 
 
 On our return we found our guide greatly agitated at the prospect of 
 punishment, which he feared he would receive from the United States 
 officials on the island for showing us the path over to the remote salt- 
 house. We assured him that his fears were groundless, but this did not 
 quiet his anxieties. 
 
 There were some cattle and sheep on the island, and we found good 
 grazing; plenty of grass as far as we went, or could see. There are no 
 trees, and the hills are not generally steep. A few of the highest, at 
 a distance, I should say were not over two thousand feet high. They 
 appeared covered with verdure to their tops. The cattle and sheep are 
 reported as doing well. 
 
 FUTURE MANAGEMENT OF THE FUR-SEAL FISHERIES. 
 
 The whole management of these islands, and the obtaining from the 
 fur-seal fisheries a handsome income by our government, is a very simple 
 affair. One capable and honest man with one or two assistants on each 
 of the two islands, and a force of a dozen men well armed, under fixed 
 regulations, forbidding the killing of over one hundred and fifty thou 
 sand seals annually, restricting the killing for the present to the Aleutes, 
 paying them a liberal compensation, providing for the sale of the skins 
 either on the island, at San Francisco, or New York, and exacting se 
 vere penalties for all violations of the law, would regulate it. 
 
 The officer in charge should be a first-class man, with a liberal salary 
 and under heavy bonds, as his life will be an isolated one and his temp 
 tations to dishonesty great. 
 
 The proposal to lease the islands has the objection that it revives 
 the old fur company monopolies, and our people will not be likely to 
 tolerate this ; and as it will require the same amount of governmental 
 watchfulness and consequent expense to protect the lessors in their 
 rights, as it would for the government to manage the concern itself, it 
 would seem practical economy for our government to take charge of the 
 business. Last spring the Chamber of Commerce at San Francisco 
 appointed a committee to ascertain the facts in relation to the fur seal 
 fisheries of Alaska, and report. This report so plainly gives the view 
 which is taken by a large number of people in California that I inclose 
 it. See Appendix U. 
 
 A letter from Adolph Muller, on the prices for furs ruling in San 
 
550 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 Francisco last October, I append, 0, though other furriers assured me 
 that Mr. Mailer's prices were altogether too low. 
 
 But to resume my narrative. On Sunday, the 10th, we buried our 
 three sailors, Eichard Livingston, Lewis Garlipp, and John Beck, with 
 funeral honors, on the island. The last rites had ffttrdly been celebrated 
 before three Aleutes, of their own accord, brought forward three tall 
 wooden crosses, and placed one at the head of each of the graves. 
 
 That afternoon we held a talk with the Aleutes, in the presence of the 
 officers of the island and of the steamer, and were confirmed in a con 
 clusion which we had arrived at long since in our intercourse with In 
 dians, namely, that they will not state any of their grievances in public 
 in presence of the powers that are set over them. In this they re 
 semble most poor and dependent people. 
 
 In the private interviews held with them two days before, five of the 
 Aleutes complained that they had been brought from Kadiak Island by 
 the agent of one of the firms on the island, for a limited period; that 
 the contract had expired some time since, but that the firm had since 
 placed a hundred dollars each to their credit, and now claimed to hold 
 them another year against their will. The lieutenant commanding 
 St. Paul and St. George Islands, having heard of this statement through 
 Colonel Wicker, in a letter to the colonel denied it, and declared that 
 the Kadiak natives had acquiesced in the arrangement. 
 
 VESSELS SAILING FOR SANDWICH ISLANDS. 
 
 One of the men complained that he had been shipped as a sailor to 
 come to these islands, and return home, but that when he arrived 
 here the vessel sailed for the Sandwich Islands, where he did not wish 
 to go. This last statement was not denied by any one present. If 
 our steamer could have stopped at Kadiak on our way home, I would 
 have asked permission to take this man home, and have arranged the 
 best I could for the others. As it was, I could only commend them to 
 the considerate care of the United States officers on the island. 
 
 This meeting, as well as the burial service of the sailors, was held 
 in the open air. The sun was shining clearly, and the weather was so 
 mild half of the officers and men had no overcoats, and yet it was the 
 10th of October, and we were on an island in the Behring Sea. 
 
 CITIZEN ALEUTES. 
 
 As we were walking down to the shore to embark, a number of the 
 chiefs and head men of the Aleutes gathered around me, and in private 
 asked me about our form of government, and whether it was true " that 
 all men were free and equal," and whether they would be allowed to 
 vote for the President, or the tl emperor," as they called him, thinking of 
 their former Eussian government. I said yes, I hoped so. They shook 
 ray hand warmly, and when we left the shore gave us three slow but 
 very loud cheers, which our officers and men returned with a will. 
 
 We then sailed for the " Northeast Point," fifteen miles away, to make 
 the final examination of the skins stored in that salt-house. All along 
 this eastern shore, as on the western, which we had passed the day be 
 fore, myriads of fur-seals were congregated, so that we could not but 
 conclude there was a large million and a half on the island. The surf 
 ran high as we landed, and the men, remembering their loss of the 
 day before, shook their heads doubtingly as they dashed us through it. 
 We thought more about the heavy taxes of the people, and whether 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 551 
 
 the Aleutes, or our officers on the island, were the more accurate in 
 counting seal-skins. We carefully measured the piles of skins in the 
 salt-house, counted up the figures, and found the Ale tites were right- 
 There were over sixty thousand skins on the island. 
 
 As if reluctant to leave the three brave sailors who had sacrificed 
 their lives to duty, our good ship Lincoln " missed stays," turned her 
 face to the island, remained immovable for a few minutes, and then 
 slowly obeying her helm, steamed off toward our home on the other 
 side of the republic, six thousand miles away. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 With all sails set and under a full head of steam, we went booming 
 along on our return trip to Unalaska. The air was chilly, and as we 
 approached the volcanic mountains surrounding Illalook Harbor they 
 loomed up ghostly white in snow through the thickening gray fog of the 
 gathering storm. We anchored that night in the snug harbor, and the 
 next morning was as clear and quiet as a May day at home, not a sign 
 of fog or cloud remaining. Before midnight, however, the wind began 
 .to blow a gale, and by morning we had dragged both anchors and were 
 stem-up high on a reef. We had to lie there till the turn of tide, and 
 it was as much as our propeller could do to head the vessel off the reef 
 against the gale, though the harbor is not half a mile wide and moun 
 tains around are two thousand feet high. The storm lasted thirty-six 
 hours, and cleared off as suddenly as it arose. Xo steamer should allow 
 its steam to get down while lying in that harbor at this season of the 
 year. What dangers the Aleutes or the missionaries have to encounter 
 in such a country, where all the highways are on the sea, you can 
 imagine. 
 
 OF THE TRIBES AND COUNTRY AROUND BRISTOL BAY. 
 
 The country was reported to be like that about Cook's Inlet, on the 
 southerly side of the Alaska Peninsula, an account of which from Gen 
 eral George P. Ihrie is appended. It is said to be a level and extensive 
 farming country, where vegetables in abundance and cattle and sheep 
 can be easily raised. The natives are said to be healthy and in as good 
 condition as any on the coast. An account of them in general terms will 
 be found in the report of Frank Mahoney, who has visited them, which 
 will be found in the appendix. 
 
 COOK'S INLET AND KENAI PENINSULA. 
 
 For the following brief sketch of this interesting portion I am indebted 
 to General George P. Ihrie, who went up there from Kadiak while I 
 went westward, and who afterwards rejoined us at Sitka: 
 
 DEAR COLTER : Inclosed I give you some rough notes from iny private journal: 
 
 1869 Tuesday, September 28. Commences pleasant and cloudy. Off at daylight for 
 Fort Kenai, situated on the eastern shore of Cook's Inlet, near the mouth (right bank) of 
 Kenai River, and distant about two hundred miles. Passed Barren Islands, which are 
 most appropriately named, and had a fine view of Point Douglas, about sixty miles 
 to westward, covered with snow from its apparent base to its summit, and estimated 
 to be about seven thousand feet high. At 6 p. m. came to anchor in English Bay, one 
 hundred and ten miles from Kadiak. At the entrance is a fur trading-post, now con 
 ducted by Hutchiuson, Kohl & Co. ; used to belong to the Russian Fur Company, 
 which sold the best of the buildings to H. K. & Co., and turned over the poorest to the 
 United States ; and this seems to have been their rule throughout tjtie Territory. 
 Ends dark and rainy. 
 
 Wednesday, September 29. Commences cloudy and windy. Off at 6 a. m., with head 
 
552 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 .vn ami wind, and came to auclior at 3 p. m., in Cook's Inlet, about six miles from the 
 fort. The officers soon came off to visit us, and tell us we can cross the bar at high 
 tide with sixteen feet of water. Saw two lofty volcanoes to-day, each about twelve 
 thousand feet high, and one in active operation, emitting a cloud of dense black smoke. 
 In fact, the whole western coast of Cook's Inlet, down through the Aleutian Islands, 
 and across (but submerged) to Asia, is nothing but a mass and chain of volcanic moun 
 tains, forming the connecting link between Asia and America. It is the wildest and 
 most chaotic scene I ever witnessed. The volcanic western coast of Mexico and South 
 America is dwarfed by Alaska. And what tends to heighten the awful grand view is 
 the scattering of glaciers in the gorges of these volcanoes, some of which infringe upon 
 the water's edge. 
 
 The eastern coast of the inlet is almost the antipodes of the western. For Alaska 
 it is a strip or belt of flat alluvial laud, originally a sand-spit and covered with tim 
 ber. About twenty miles eastward, however, is a chain of snow mountains from two 
 thousand to five thousand feet high. This side of the inlet contains numerous ledges 
 of lignite coal, with more or less resin in it, which generates too much caloric for 
 steamboats and railroads. The Russian Fur Company attempted to develop these 
 veins, but found it wouldn't pay. Some of their shafts are still visible at and near 
 English Bay. Ends cloudy, with rain. 
 
 Thursday, September 30. Commences cloudy but pleasant, with stiff breeze. Crossed 
 bar about 11 a. m., and came to anchor in Kenai River, mooring to stationary anchors. 
 Find a current of seven knots an hour hero at the ebb and flood of the tide, and sand 
 all around us ; pleasantly located. Went ashore and found the fort on a level bluff 
 about one hundred and iifty feet above the waters of the inlet, and covered with coarse 
 grass and small trees. It is the only piece of arable land larger than a garden I have 
 seen in Alaska, and grows the hardy esculents, but not in perfection. We were 
 shown salmon caught in Kenai River, four of which rilled a barrel ! The meat is of a 
 rich red color and acceptable flavor. None of the Alaska salmon, however, can com 
 pare in flavor, according to my palate, with the salmon of the Columbia River and the 
 southern coast of Oregon. Dined with the officers on wild geese and ptarmigan, in 
 which Alaska abounds, and were shown the skin of a monster brown bear, just killed 
 by the Kenai Indians. Any quantity of black and brown bears in the mountains to the 
 eastward. Looking to the west you behold a perfect nest of sleeping volcanoes of all 
 heights and sizes, with glaciers of cerulean blue ice melting among them. Grand 
 sight, this chaos ! Americans can no longer have a good excuse for going to Europe 
 sight-seeing. A summer's trip to Alaska, from say 1st of June to 1st of October, will 
 be more interesting than a dozen trips to the Alps or Himalayas. 
 
 The weather here to-day is simply superb, all that heart could desire, and yet we are 
 in the latitude of Cape Farewell, the southernmost point of Greenland ! It lasts, I am 
 informed, to the end of October, when it grows very cold, the mercury going down to 
 thirty or forty degrees below zero, and the inlet becomes full of floating ice. 
 
 Monday, October 5. A continuance of the genuine October weather of the Middle 
 States, and the road from wharf to the post very dusty. Steamer almost discharged, 
 and a certainty of getting off to-morrow. On duty on a board of survey, to inspect 
 some of the buildings for which the United States paid two hundred thousand gold 
 dollars to the Russian government. We were shown a lot of very old log hovels, and 
 recommended they be used for firewood if possible. The best of the late Russian 
 buildings are claimed and occupied by Hutchinson, Kohl & Co. There has been 
 barefaced swindling, sufficient in connection with the transfer of the " buildings " to 
 make a saint swear. The long and short of the business is, the agent of the Russian 
 Fur Company disposed of the best of the warehouses and residences to H. K. & Co., 
 ;md to private individuals, for "a mere song," and then turned over to the agent of the 
 United States the balance, which, with very few exceptions, for appearance sake, are 
 lit for firewood only. Ugh ! 
 
 Visited the Indian village, about one mile from the post, and found them and their 
 houses like all the rest on the coast. These Indians are like all the others in Alaska, 
 .semi- civilized, peaceful, docile, friendly, and anxious and willing to work. Justice, 
 kind treatment, and prompt payment for services rendered will, in the course of time, 
 change them to law-abiding and good citizens. They are far superior in habits and 
 industry to the crafty, marauding, and wandering Indians of the plains, who scorn to 
 do anything but fight and hunt, leaving their squaws to do all other kinds of work. 
 
 At midnight witnessed the most gorgeous curtain aurora borealis eye ever beheld. 
 A rich green and purple undulating curtain seemed suspended in the sky as far south 
 as twenty degrees, and forming a perfect arc. At the west nd of the curtain were 
 two perpendicular columns of light, which rapidly traversed the curtain from west to 
 east, and vice versa, giving to view every possible shade of the two colors, and making 
 the rays fairly dance in and by their own light. Such a celestial sight would alone 
 compensate one for a trip from Europe to Alaska. 
 
 Tuesday, October 6. Another lovely day. We bid adieu to Kenai, which is the most 
 desirable place to live at, I've yet seen in Alaska. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 553 
 GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE INDIANS OF ALASKA. 
 
 Of the general character of the Indians of Alaska I have collected 
 evidence from many sources. It is wholly from those who have visited 
 the Indians at their homes in Alaska, and who speak from personal 
 observation and knowledge. Coming from such men from traders, 
 trappers, merchants, and officers of the government it will command 
 that respect which its origin deserves. 
 
 First among these in extended experience comes Mr. Frank Mahoney, 
 who has been among them for the last sixteen years. Mr. Mahoney says 
 of the natives of the interior, from the Yukon to the Copper Eiver, num 
 bering five thousand souls : "They are a peaceable race, and respectful 
 to the white man, looking upon him as a superior. There is no doubt 
 but that in time they could be shaped into useful citizens." 
 
 Of the Aleutian islanders, numbering seven thousand souls, he says : 
 "They are a very quiet race, and nearly all Christians," (members of the 
 Eusso-Greek church.) 
 
 Of the Indians at Cook's Inlet he says : " They are a very sociable 
 race of Indians." They number about eight hundred, and are called 
 Kaneskies. 
 
 East of Cook's Inlet, down on Prince William's Sound, there are " about 
 four hundred Nuchusks," while those "on the Copper Eiver are called 
 Nadnuskys." These, together with the Koloshans of the southeastern 
 coast, numbering eleven thousand nine hundred, he considers warlike. 
 
 For the remainder of Mr. Mahoney's report, which is full of interesting 
 information, see appendix C, No. 2. 
 
 Hon. William S. Dodge, ex-mayor of Sitka, says of the Alaska Indians, 
 as a whole, " that they are not at all to be compared to the Indians in 
 habiting the interior of our country, or even to those living 011 the bor- 
 bers of the Great Lakes. They are of a very superior intelligence, and 
 have rapidly acquired many of the American ways of living and cooking. 
 Their houses are clustered into villages, very thoroughly and neatly built, 
 and far more substantial and pretentious than the log houses usually con 
 structed by our hardy backwoodsmen." 
 
 In this description Mr. Dodge includes the Stycknies, Kakes, Kootze- 
 iioos, and the Koloshan tribes generally. 
 
 Of the Sitkas Mr. Dodge says: "They supply Sitka with its game, 
 fish, and vegetables, such as potatoes, turnips, beets, and radishes, and 
 they are sharp traders." 
 
 Mr. Frank K. Louthan, post trader at Sitka, says of the Sitkas: " They 
 are industrious and ingenious, being able to imitate admirably almost 
 anything placed before them." He tells of their " chopping and deliver 
 ing one thousand cords of wood for the United States quartermaster, 
 under many disadvantages, as well, if not better, than it would have 
 been done by the same white labor, under similar circumstances." 
 
 Mr. Louthan further says : " That our Indians are susceptible of a high 
 standard of cultivation I have no doubt." " This can only be done by 
 the aid of industrial and educational schools. The missionary is work 
 ing to good advantage at Vancouver Island and at Fort Simpson, in 
 whose schools can be found men and women of high culture and refine 
 ment, fit to grace almost any position in life." "The Koloshans, our 
 own Indians from Tongas to the Copper Eiver, are quite as intelligent 
 and easy of culture, needing only the same liberal system of education 
 to, in a very short time, utilize them for every purpose of government 
 and usefulness." (See full report of F. K. Louthan, Appendix C.) 
 
554 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 Of the natives on the river Yukon Captain Charles W. Baymond says : 
 " The Kaviacks and Mahlmutes are healthy, vigorous, fine looking men." 
 Of the coast Indians near the Auric -Elver he says: "They are kind, 
 peaceable, generous, and hospitable without an exception ; their guest 
 can ask no favor which they deem too great ; the warmest bed, the most 
 comfortable corner of the room, the largest dish, is always for the 
 stranger." And then he tells a beautiful story of their hospitality to his 
 party, for which I refer you to his interesting report. 
 
 I might multiply extracts, but must not lengthen my report too much, 
 
 OF THE INDIAN LAW OF MEMBERS OF A FAMILY AVENGING THE 
 MURDER OF THEIR RELATIVES. 
 
 Mr. Frank K. Louthan gives us in his report an instructive account 
 of the Indian method of avenging the murder of their blood relations. 
 He says : 
 
 The failure to promptly pay for a real or supposed injury is at once the signal for 
 retaliation. I can but look with great favor upon the system on the part of the govern 
 ment of adapting itself to the one idea "immediate settlement" with their people for all 
 wrongs of magnitude, (whether on the part of the military or the individual,) entirely 
 upon estimated value. This is the time-honored custom of the red man in Alaska, and 
 pertains to all alike, wherever dispersed throughout the vast Territory. 
 
 At present it is more than folly to attempt to induct him into any other way of look 
 ing at a wrong or injury. Authority, with definite instructions to our rules, whether 
 civil or military to in this way settle all disputes, especially when life has been taken 
 will always keep him (the Indian) peaceable and friendly, and in the end save to the 
 government many notable lives and a large expenditure of treasure. 
 
 I am led to these reflections by observing that in this way the Hudson's Bay Company 
 and the old Russian American Fur Company have for nearly a century lived in compara 
 tive security among the Pacific Coast Indians, failing in but five instances a confidence 
 betrayed, property or life endangered. Again, my own personal experience is a powerful 
 example of the system of such a course. Last New Year's eve a difficulty occurred at 
 the market-house in Sitka, between a Chilkaht chief and a soldier sentinel, which re 
 sulted in the imprisonment in the guard-house of the chief, and through some unaccount 
 able manner the death by shooting, in a day or two afterwards, of three Indians. For full 
 account of these early difficulties I refer you to a report of General J. C. Davis, made 
 about that time. 
 
 Among the Indians killed was one Chilkaht, one Kake, and one Sitka. The Kakes 
 very promptly sought the usual remedy ; but failing to satisfy themselves, adopted 
 their extreme remedy, " an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth;" meeting two white men 
 near their village, promptly dispatched them, and thereby lost all of their village, 
 burned by order of the general commanding. Hence the so-called " Kake war." 
 
 For nearly five months no coast or interior Indians appeared among us, to the great 
 detriment of trade, the Chilkahts especially keeping themselves aloof from us all winter. 
 Well knowing the chief and the most of his people I determined to pay them a visit for pur 
 poses of trade, and to restore friendly relations. With a small schooner I reached their 
 village in May last, and found them sullen and listless, and effected but little in any 
 shape for several days. At the end of the fourth day our little vessel was suddenly 
 boarded by about seventy-five well-armed men, bent on satisfaction, either in prop 
 erty or life, for the man killed at Sitka nearly five months previous. The exigencies 
 of my situation required prompt and immediate action. 
 
 Asking from our closed cabin an audience, and it being granted, I stepped out among 
 them with my interpreter, an Indian, and whilst protesting against their wish that I 
 should pay for what had been done by our military chief at Sitka, satisfied them by 
 giving them a letter to the general commanding, asking him for the sake of trade and 
 security to life to pay for the man killed, giving my promise to the Indians to pay for 
 the dead man if the general refused. 
 
 The general refused to listen to the delegation waiting on him with my letter. I 
 returned with my vessel again to Sitka and to Chilkaht, when I promptly paid the price 
 asked, thirteen blankets and one coat, amounting in value, all told, to about fifty 
 dollars coin. I feel quite sure that in this simple settlement I arrested serious trouble 
 to myself, and probably to the government. 
 
 I made afterward a similar settlement with the Chilkahts in Sitka for one of their 
 men, killed by a young man in my employ. I can safely say that, dealt with in this 
 way, there need never be any serious complication of Indian affairs in this territory. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 555 
 THE SCENERY OF ALASKA. 
 
 (The sketches referred to in this article are not engraved.) 
 
 On the eastern coast the thickly wooded foot-hills are covered to their 
 tops with the Douglas, Menzies, and Mertens spruce, trees varying from 
 100 to 250 feet in height, and stout in proportion; white cedar, sometimes 
 150 feet high ; large leaved maple, and others, while there and to the 
 westward, on the Kenai Peninsula, the Aleutian Islands, and the coasts 
 of Bristol Bay, strips of low land skirt the base of the mountains, and 
 on these cattle and sheep browse and fatten. It is this, variety of lofty 
 mountain, gently undulating lowlands, and clear, deep streams, lake, or 
 sea, that makes the scenery of Alaska so attractive. 
 
 The sketches Nos. 13 and 20, Wrangel Harbor, Alaska, and No. 14, 
 Moonlight in Sitka Harbor, will give you but a poor idea of the beauty 
 of the scenery, yet you can easily see what a chance there is in such a 
 country for an active, enterprising, intelligent race of people. The 
 Indians of Alaska, considering their slight opportunities, surpass all 
 others on this continent except the Pueblas of New Mexico, and deserve 
 our most considerate attention. Some idea of the purity of the atmos 
 phere when the fogs clear away may be formed by referring to sketch 
 No. 15, view of Mount Fairweather, taken at sea 124 miles from its 
 base. Few places in the world could allow of objects being seen with 
 distinctness at such a great distance. You will notice under this sketch 
 the names of General Davis and other officers of this department, 
 vouching for the uncommon phenomenon. Some travelers assure us 
 that they have seen these mountains as far as Ungi, 200 miles. 
 
 No. 18 is a sketch of a cascade near Tongas, as beautiful a little gem 
 of a waterfall as can be seen anywhere. 
 
 LOCATION OF INDIAN VILLAGES. 
 
 Indian villages are generally located on these low hills, at the base of 
 high mountains, as seen in sketches 16 and 17, and their appearance is 
 picturesque in the extreme. Being close by the water, all their jour 
 neying is done by canoes, in the management as well as the construc 
 tion of Avhich they are adepts. To see them by the dozen plying with 
 skill their short, broad paddles, and sending their light and graceful- 
 looking bidarkas so swiftly through the water, is a sight to remember. 
 
 FISHERIES OF ALASKA. 
 
 The Indians bring halibut, codfish, flounders, salmon, clams, smelt, 
 whortleberries, wild currants, venison, bear skins, marten, mink, lynx, 
 fox, and other skins for sale. At Sitka or Wrangel they sell a halibut, 
 large size, for 50 cents, a salmon, 25 cents, or 5 for $1 ; deer, $2 ; smelts, 
 a peck for 25 cents, and so on. 
 
 This country is truly the fisherman's paradise, and the Indians are 
 experts at the business. The salmon caught here are so large that five of 
 them fill a barrel, and sometimes only three are sufficient, and they are so 
 plentiful that you can kick them with your foot ashore at the mouth of 
 shallow mountain streams, up which they are trying to swim to deposit 
 their eggs. The smelt come ashore in such quantities that you can run 
 out on the beach, as the surf recedes, and scoop up a bushel basket full 
 in ten minutes. Our second mate put down his line from the steamer 
 at Kadiak for half an hour, and caught ten large codfish. At Ungi, 
 on the codfish banks, near Chemogan Islands, there are now as many 
 
556 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 as thirty vessels seen at a time engaged in fishing for cod. (See, for re 
 port on fishing, by Carlton and others, Appendix F.) 
 
 Educate the Indians of Alaska, and they will supply the United 
 States with fish and furs. 
 
 DEMORALIZING EFFECT OF THE NEAR PROXIMITY OF SOLDIERS AND 
 
 INDIANS. 
 
 I have spoken of the ill effects of the near proximity of soldiers to 
 the Indian villages, a-nd of the demoralizing effects upon both. It is 
 the same in all Indian countries. It appears to be worse here because 
 more needless. Nowhere else that 1 have visited is the absolute use- 
 lessness of soldiers PO apparent as in Alaska. The only communication 
 being by water there are no roads by land it follows that vessels suit 
 able for plying up the inland seas, manned by a few revenue officers or 
 good, smart sailors, will do more toward effectually preventing lawless 
 ness among the Indians, and smuggling or illicit trade with the whites 
 and Indians, than five hundred soldiers located at post. Nearly all the 
 United States officers that I have conversed with agree on the above, 
 and recommend a reduction in the force- in this Territory. There are 
 five hundred here now, when two hundred would be ample for the whole 
 Territory. 
 
 The soldiers will have whisky, and the Indians are equally fond of 
 it. The free use of this by both soldiers and Indians, together with 
 the other debaucheries between them, rapidly demoralizes both, though 
 the whites, having the larger resources, and being better cared for by 
 the government in houses, clothing, and food, endure it the longest. 
 
 Wondering how it was that so much liquor found its way into the 
 department, I addressed a letter to the collector of the port of Sitka, 
 as well as to the captain of the revenue cutter Eeliance, inquiring what 
 was the cause. The letter with the two replies I inclose, marked in 
 order, Appendix Gr. You will notice that both of these officers recom 
 mended the use of small steam revenue cutters to ply up the bays and 
 inlets of the coast. Neither ask for more troops. 
 
 How much such vessels are needed, and how grossly the law of Con 
 gress against the introduction of liquors into this Territory is violated, 
 may be seen by the communications from Captain Henriques, relating 
 to liquor landed from schooner General Harney, marked D, and the 
 letter from Carl Osche, relating to the doings of the ship Cesarowitz, 
 marked D. 
 
 I sincerely trust that when our commission meets it will recommend 
 the sending of two small revenue steam tugs, of the kind spoken of by 
 Captain Selden and Collector Kapus, to this Territory, and also recom 
 mend that the law of Congress prohibiting the introduction of liquor 
 into the Territory be made more stringent or be more strictly enforced, 
 and the introduction of liquor be as completely suppressed in Alaska as 
 it finally was in the Indian Territory. (See present law, Appendix H.) 
 
 INTERVIEWS WITH CHIEFS. 
 
 Thinking it well to show the chiefs such respect as might be in my 
 power, I invited the chief of the Tongas and his wife on board the New- 
 bern, and having taken him through the vessel, showing him the 
 machinery, &c., I invited the couple to dine with me. They were evi 
 dently much pleased. I did the same at Wrangel and Sitka with the 
 two principal chiefs of the tribes, with this difference, that on these occa- 
 
REPOKT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 557 
 
 sions the captain and ladies invited us to join them at the regular table, 
 instead of having a separate table provided for us as in the first in 
 stance. The chiefs ate with their forks j when it came to the pud 
 ding they used their spoons, and on having the almonds and raisins 
 placed before them they used their fingers, the same as those around 
 them. In all they behaved with perfect propriety, and the most fas 
 tidious could see nothing in their demeanor to find fault with. I men 
 tion these trifles to show their wish and ability to imitate white men. 
 
 I was much pleased when I visited the headquarters of Major General 
 Davis, at Sitka, to see the large reception hall in the old Kussian gov 
 ernor's house, where the chief officers of the Bussian government re 
 ceived and entertained the Indian chiefs on their occasional and annual 
 visits to them. 
 
 RETURN TO SITKA. 
 
 At Sitka we again met the United States steamer Newborn, and re 
 turned with her to San Francisco. 
 
 ABUSE OF INDIANS AT WRANGEL. 
 
 On iny return, trip while stopping at Wrangel, October 29, Leon 
 Smith, assisted by two half drunken discharged soldiers, assaulted an 
 Indian who was passing in front of his store. Mr. Smith said that he 
 was under the impression (mistaken, as he afterward admitted) that 
 the Indian had struck his little boy, and he only shook the Indian. 
 The drunken soldiers standing by then, of their own accord, (unsolicited, 
 Mr. Smith says, by him,) seized the Indian, brutally beat him, and 
 stamped upon him. I had been taking a census of the village that 
 afternoon, and hearing the shouts of the party, met the Iridian with 
 his face badly cut and bleeding coming toward his home. I immedi 
 ately went to the post and suggested to the commandant that he should 
 have the drunken soldiers arrested and retained for trial. He sent a 
 lieutenant, with two or three men, "to quell the disturbance," the 
 Indians meanwhile having become excited, and to " use his own discre 
 tion about arresting the men." Lieutenant returned soon after 
 
 without the drunken soldiers, and gave as his reason that " the Indian 
 struck Mr. Smith's boy," which, as I have said, was disproven. 
 
 The drunken men belonged to a party of over one hundred dis 
 charged soldiers who had come down on our steamer from Sitka, and 
 were on their way to San Francisco. Some of them had been drummed 
 out of the service for robbing the Greek church at Sitka, and for other 
 crimes. I had informed the commandant of their character the morning 
 after our vessel arrived, and suggested to him the propriety of prevent 
 ing any of them from landing and going to the Indian village. He 
 replied that he had no authority to prevent any one from landing. I 
 was surprised at this, as I supposed Alaska was an Indian territory, 
 and that the military had supreme control. 
 
 The day after the assault upon the Indian, the commandant came on 
 board the Newbern and asked very kindly my opinion about t^e pro 
 priety of attempting to arrest the two drunken soldiers, but as there 
 were over one hundred soldiers on board, and the affair had occurred at 
 near twilight, so that it would be impossible to recognize the men, the 
 impracticability of doing this at that late hour was apparent. 
 
 The news of the bombardment of this post by the commandant reached 
 us as we close report. (See Appendix Z, No. 1.) 
 
558 EEPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 DANGERS OF NAVIGATION IN ALASKA WATERS. 
 
 "You ought to see Duncan's mission before you leave the Pacific 
 coast," said many people to me on the journey. It is at Metlacatlah, 
 twelve or fifteen miles above Fort Simpson, near the British bound 
 ary line, with Alaska. "It is really astonishing what he has done for 
 the Indians in a short time," said they. He has a large school for boys 
 and girls: a chapel for religious meetings 5 a market-house for the neigh 
 boring tribes to trade in; a prison for malefactors; a police made up of 
 Indians only, c., &c. " Oh, you must see it," said they. " Well, Cap 
 tain," said I to Captain Freeman, the obliging commander of the United 
 States steamer Newbern, "I suppose it would not be possible for you to 
 stop there on your way down the coast." "No, sir!" said he, with empha 
 sis. I had tried to get a canoe while at Tongas to row across Nast Bay, 
 but we had not time going up, so I thought I should have to let it go. 
 
 As we were leaving Wrangel Harbor coming home, the wind increased 
 to a gale, and we had promise of what sailors call a " dirty night." We 
 turned into our berths with seritms misgivings of danger. The straits in 
 which we were tossing were narrow, the vessel high out of the water 
 from lack of cargo, and the night pitch dark. We soon forgot it all, 
 however, in sleep ; when suddenly we were awakened by the ship com 
 ing to a full stop, a tremendous crash against a rock, which nearly 
 threw us out of our berths. A brief prayer, a quiet putting away in 
 dressing of all gold, watches, and other heavy things that might 
 encumber us in the water, and we went on deck. The storm was raging 
 wildly the rain and sleet swept horizontally past us ; the roar of the 
 breakers could be heard all about us, but we could see nothing. We 
 had two hundred souls aboard, and not enough small boats to carry fifty, 
 nor would they have been of much use if we had more. The pilot said 
 the water was coining in the ship rapidly, but that so far the pumps 
 were keeping pace with it. So we went down below, out of the way of 
 the faithful officers and men who managed the ship. The storm lasted 
 two days, and then the captain said he would have to beach the vessel 
 at Fort Simpson, and while she was being repaired, I would have time to 
 visit Mr. Duncan's Indian mission at Metlacatlah. 
 
 MR. DUNCAN'S MISSION AT METLACATLAH. 
 
 Through the kind aid of Mr. Cunningham, the head man of the Hud 
 son's Bay Company at Fort Simpson, a large canoe and a crew of picked 
 young men were secured -to take me fifteen miles up the coast to the 
 mission. The morning we started was rainy and the sea rough, but the 
 men managed the canoe so skillfully that we shipped but little water. 
 The sun soon came out clear, and though we had a few heavy flurries of 
 hail and the wind was right in our teeth, we had one of the most enjoy 
 able excursions oi: my life. 
 
 We arrived at the mission at three o'clock, having started at eight. 
 Mr. Duncan was away on a visit to another mission which he looks 
 after up in Nast Bay. We landed at a well-constructed stone wharf, 
 built for canoes, and passing up this about one hundred feet ascended a 
 flight of steps and entered the market-house. 
 
 This market-house is a neat, well-built house, of about forty by eighty 
 feet, dry, clean, and comfortable. A number of Indians were in it, sitting 
 beside their heaps of ulican boxes, piles of bear and deer skins, fish, 
 &c., ancl seemed as contented, cheerful, and enterprising as many white 
 people I have seen in like places. Ascending from, the market place a 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 559 
 
 flight of about twenty steps, which are lengthened out on either side 
 along a terrace two hundred feet, you come to the plateau on which the 
 mission village, is located. 
 
 The two streets on which the houses are built form two sides of a 
 triangle, at the apex of which the church, mission-house, trading store, 
 market and " lock-up" are erected. 
 
 The church is octagon in form, and looks like a locomotive depot. 
 There was a pebble floor, and benches, with room to accommodate five 
 hundred people ; small windows around the sides and light above, but 
 no stove or other provision for heating that I could see. 
 
 The store was well furnished with substantial articles of daily neces 
 sity, and at fair prices. Up stairs there was a good stock of marten, 
 mink, fox, bear, and beaver skins, which Mr. Duncan had received in 
 exchange for the goods. The missionary's own residence is simple and 
 commodious. 
 
 But the chief interest is in the construction and condition of the dwell 
 ings of the Indians. In these Mr. Duncan has shown much practical 
 good sense. Taking the common form of habitation peculiar to all the 
 Koloshan tribes along this coast, he has improved upon it by introduc 
 ing chimneys, windows, and doors of commodious size, and floors ele 
 vated above the ground. For furniture he has introduced chairs, tables, 
 bedsteads, looking glasses, pictures, and window curtains. In front he 
 has fenced off neat court-yards, and introduced the cultivation of 
 flowers, while in the rear of their dwellings are vegetable gardens. Al 
 together the village presents many instructive and encouraging features. 
 
 Mr. Duncan is invested with the powers of a civil magistrate under 
 the colonial laws of Great Britain, and is thus enabled to settle disputes, 
 and nip all petty misdemeanors in the bud. He has organized a police 
 of Indians and they are said to be well disciplined and effective. There 
 is a small "lock-up" or caboose built of logs in a picturesque form, in 
 which the disorderly are temporarily confined. 
 
 It will be noticed that Mr. Duncan is thus invested with the powers of 
 an Indian agent, teacher, missionary, trader, and justice of the peace, 
 and as he is considered an honest man, and his books of record are open 
 to inspection, among a primitive people as Indians are, he can be a most 
 efficient officer. 
 
 OTHER INDIAN MISSIONS IN BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 At Nanirno there is another most successful Indian mission, under the 
 care of Kev. Mr. White, for the Wesleyan Methodists of Canada. 
 
 This mission has a day school and chapel, and whenever a family have 
 shown an encouraging desire for better quarters than their Indian huts 
 afford, the society build cottages for them, and to avoid pauperizing 
 them, take a small annual payment until they can gradually be released 
 from the obligation. In some cases they present the cottage to the In 
 dians outright for services performed; in others, they furnish them with 
 the timber and nails at reduced prices. There are now some eight or 
 nine neat cottages built near the chapel, and about fifty or sixty children 
 and young people attend school and the church meetings. Several na 
 tive teachers are employed, and in a short time many more will be suffi 
 ciently educated to assist. 
 
 The only evening I had at Nanimo during the brief stay of our 
 steamer to coal, was very rainy, yet at the ringing of the chapel bell over 
 forty of the scholars attended, and sang and recited with most credit 
 able ability. The contrast of their advanced condition neatly dressed, 
 
560 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 educated, and companionable with that of the native Indians in their 
 primitive condition, of half nakedness, black, painted faces, and squalor, 
 was encouraging. These opposite conditions are in close proximity, the 
 mission being established in the heart of the village. 
 
 Captain Freeman speaks of an island not laid down in the United 
 States charts. (See Appendix S.) 
 
 To give you an idea of the climate of Alaska, I inclose you a copy of 
 a meteorological register, given by Dr. Tonner, of the Indian Hospital 
 at Sitka. (See Appendix I.) By that record you will see that there 
 were but seven days of snow in 1868, while there were one hundred days 
 fair, one hundred days rainy, and the remainder cloudy. The thermo 
 meter at no time was lower than eleven degrees above zero in winter, 
 nor higher than seventy-one, Fahrenheit, in summer. (Appendix B, 3.) 
 
 You will perceive that the thermometer varies much less than w r ith 
 us, and that, though there is much rainy weather there, there are also 
 many clear days. And Sitka, where this record was kept, is the most 
 subject to rains of any place in the Territory. 
 
 NAMES OF TRIBES AND THEIR NUMBERS. 
 
 Major General Halleck's nomenclature I have already given. His 
 estimate I believe to be the nearest correct of any. In all cases where 
 I counted them the number exceeded the published estimates. 
 
 I did not find, however, that marked difference between the Kolo- 
 shians, Aleutes, and Kenais, as to the " one being peaceable, the others 
 wild, warlike, &c., w which the general speaks of. The Aleutes, like 
 our Cherokees, were fortunate in having faithful Christian men to work 
 for their christianization and civilization. The Koloshians as yet have 
 not been so favored ; but of the two my observations lead me to conclude 
 that the Koloshians are the more capable. 
 
 To sum up my opinion about the natives of Alaska, I do not hesitate 
 to say that if three-quarters of them, were landed in New York as coining 
 from Europe, they would be selected as among the most intelligent of 
 the many worthy emigrants who daily arrive at that port. In two years 
 they would be admitted to citizenship, and in ten years some of their 
 children, under the civilizing influence of our eastern public schools, 
 would be found members of Congress. 
 
 RECOMMENDATIONS. 
 
 In conclusion, I would recommend that, in all our dealings with the 
 Indians, we shall "do unto them as we would them to do unto us; 7 ' 
 and as the glorious fifteenth amendment is now virtually secured we 
 should prepare the Indians to receive its beneficent protection. 
 
 Securing to them, beyond the possibility of failure, (other than the fail 
 ure of our government,) all their rights, tribal and individual, to lands or 
 moneys due them, wo should secure agents and teachers to guide them, 
 and provide schools, mechanical tools, agricultural implements, &c., 
 everywhere. 
 
 The wild tribes should not only be placed upon reservation, but 
 amply provided for and protected when there. 
 
 Either the civil law of the United States should be extended over all 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS.. 561 
 
 the Indians, or a code of laws at once adopted denning crime and pro 
 viding a judiciary and a police force to execute it. 
 
 Magisterial power should be given to the agents on reservations, and 
 he should have control of the trading posts and be held responsible for 
 the business on his reservation. The pay of these agents should be in 
 creased from the present fifteen hundred dollars to two thousand dollars 
 per annum . The present pay is not sufficient to secure such a class of men 
 as we ought to have over the Indian reservations. *As a rule, they 
 should be married men. With the employes of the agency, also, pref 
 erence should be given to married men. 
 
 We should endeavor to teach the children the English language, 
 rather than to develop a taste for their native dialect. 
 
 Wherever a good agent has been removed under the recent general 
 changes I think he should be restored ; as, for example, Eev. Mr. Wil 
 bur, of the Yakhama reservations. There are too few such men for us 
 to be able to lose their services. 
 
 IN ALASKA TERRITORY. 
 
 The fur-seal fisheries of St. Paul and St. George Island are the key 
 to control all the resources of northern and western Alaska and the 
 forty thousand Indians thereon. Whichever party the government or 
 the monopolists get control of those fisheries, with their assured income 
 of half a million of dollars yearly, and the commercial power which accom 
 panies it, will be virtually masters of both the trade and the Indians 
 for the next ten or twenty years. No such monopoly would stand, how 
 ever, that length of time in this country; the profound feeling against 
 it which exists on the Pacific slope, where it is best understood, would 
 sweep it, and the political party that allowed it, out of power in half 
 that time. But it is to be hoped that Congress will not be betrayed into 
 introducing any such system of virtual serfdom over so large a portion 
 of these wards of our government. 
 
 One general superintendent at department headquarters, and four 
 local agents, one at each of the points of Tongas, Sitka, Kenai, Una- 
 laska, and on the Youkon Eiver, should be appointed, and an appropria 
 tion of one hundred thousand dollars be made for schools, medical at 
 tendance, and general industrial development of the natives. The 
 Russo-Greek church should be protected, and its teachers encouraged. 
 
 As all the traveling is done by water, the superintendent and agents 
 should be allowed free passage on all government vessels in Alaska 
 waters, wherever their duty requires it. 
 
 In my journey of over ten months 7 duration and twenty thousand 
 thousand miles of travel, through the least frequented Territories and 
 among the Indian tribes reported to be the most warlike, I have been 
 uniformly treated with the utmost kindness by these neglected, misun 
 derstood, and greatly abused people. 
 Faithfully, yours, 
 
 YINCENT COLYEE, 
 United States Special Indian Commissioner. . 
 
 Hon. FELIX E. BRUNOT, 
 
 Chairman Board of Indian Commissioners. 
 
 36 I A 
 
562 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 [From, Major General Halleck's report to the Secretary of War, 1869.] 
 
 NAMES OF TRIBES AND THEIR NUMBERS. 
 
 Indian population. Most writers make four general divisions of the natives of Alaska : 
 1st, the Koloshians ; 2d, the Kenaians ; 3d, the Aleutes, 4th, the Esquimaux. These 
 are again subdivided into numerous tribes and families, which have been named some 
 times from their places of residence or resort and sometimes from other circumstances 
 orlncidents. 
 
 1. The Koloshians. This name is given by the Russians to all the natives who in 
 habit the islands and coast from the latitude 54 40' to the mouth of the Atua or Cop 
 per River. The Indians of the northern islands and northern coast of British Colum 
 bia belong to the same stock, and their entire population was estimated by the early 
 explorers at 25,000. The Koloshians in Alaska, at the present time, have been subdi 
 vided and classed as follows : 
 
 The Hydas, who inhabit the southern part of Alexandria or Prince of Wales Archi 
 pelago. They have usually been hostile to the whites, and a few years ago captured a 
 trading vessel and murdered the crew. They number about 600! These Indians are 
 also called Kaiganies and Kliavakans ; the former being near Kaigan Harbor, and the 
 latter near the Gulf of Kliavakan. 
 
 In the same archipelago are the Hennegas, who live near Cape Pole, and the Chat- 
 sinas, who occupy the northern portion of the principal island. They are said to be 
 peaceful, and to number about 500 each, in all about 1,000. 
 
 The Tongas, who live on Tongas Island and on the north side of Portland Channel. 
 A branch of this tribe, called the Foxes, now under a separate chief, live near Cape 
 Fox. The two branches together number about 500. 
 
 The Stikeens, who live on the Stackine River and the islands near its mouth. Al 
 though represented, as at the present time, peaceable, a few years ago they captured a 
 trading vessel and murdered the crew. They number about 1,000. 
 
 The Kakus, or Kakes, who live on Kuprinoff Island, having their principal settle 
 ment near the northwestern side. These Indians have long been hostile to the whites, 
 making distant warlike incursions in their canoes. They have several times visited 
 Puget Sound, and, in 1857, murdered the collector of customs at Port Townsend. They 
 number altogether about 1,200. 
 
 The Kous, who have several villages on the bays and inlets of Kou Island, between 
 Cape Division and Prince Frederick's Sound. They are represented as generally un 
 friendly to our people. They are dangerous only to small unarmed trades. They num 
 ber, in all, about 800. 
 
 The Koutznous or Koushnous, who live near Kootznere Head, at the mouth of Hood's 
 Bay, Admiralty Island. They number about 800. 
 
 The Awks, who live along Douglas's Channel and near the mouth of Tako River. 
 They have a bad reputation, and number about 800. 
 
 The Sundowns and Takos, who live on the mainland from Port Houghton to the 
 Tako River. They number about 500. 
 
 The Chilcates or Chilkahts, living on Lynn Channel and the Chilkaht River. They 
 are warlike, and have heretofore been hostile to all whites, but at present manifest a 
 disposition to be friendly. They muster about 2,000. 
 
 The Hoodsua-hoos, who live near the head of Chatham Straits. There are also 
 .small settlements of them near Port Frederick, and at some other points. They num 
 ber about 1,000. 
 
 The Hunnas or Hooneaks, who are scattered along the mainland from Lynn Canal to 
 Cape Spencer. Their number is about 1,000. 
 
 The Sitkas, or Indians on Baronoff Island, who were at first opposed to the change 
 of flags, but have since become friendly. These are estimated by General Davis at 
 about 1,200. 
 
 If we add to these the scattering families and tribes on the islands not above enu 
 merated, and the Hyacks, who live south of Copper River, we shall have from 12,000 
 to 15,000 as the whole number of Koloshians in the Territory. 
 
 2. 2he Kenaians. This name, derived from the peninsula of Kenai, which lies be 
 tween Cook's Inlet and Prince William's Sound, has been applied to all the Indians 
 who occupy the country north of Copper River and west of the Rocky Mountains, ex 
 cept the Aleutes and Esquimaux. The employe's of the telegraph company repre 
 sent them as peaceful and well disposed. They, however, are ready to avenge any af 
 front or wrong. I have not sufficient data to give the names, locations, or numbers of 
 the several tribes of these people. Their whole number is usually estimated at 25,000. 
 
 3. The Aleutes. This term more properly belongs to the natives of the Aleutian 
 Islands, but it has been applied also to those of the Schoumagin and Kadiak groups, 
 and to the southern Esquimaux, whom they greatly resemble. They are generally 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 563 
 
 kind and well disposed, and not entirely wanting in industry. By the introduction of 
 schools and churches among these people the Russians have done much toward reduc 
 ing them to a state of civilization. As might he expected from the indefinite charac 
 ter of the lines separating them from the Esquimaux, the estimates of their numbers 
 are conflicting, varying from 4,000 to 10,000. Probably the lowest numher Avould com 
 prise all the inhabitants of the Aleutian Islands proper, while if we include the other 
 groups and the peninsula of Alaska, and the country bordering on Bristol Bay, the 
 whole number may reach as high as 10,000. 
 
 4. Tlie Esquimaux. These people, who constitute the remainder of the population 
 of Alaska, inhabit the coasts of Behring's Sea and of the Arctic Ocean, and the inte 
 rior country north, and including the northern branches of Youkon River. The Keua- 
 ians are said to hold the country along the more southerly branches of that river. The 
 character of the Alaskian Esquimaux does not essentially differ from that of the same 
 race in other parts of the world. They are low in the scale of humanity, and number 
 about 20,000. These estimates make the entire Indian population of Alaska about 
 60,000. 
 
 Report of Brevet Lieutenant Colonel Robert N. Scott, United States Army. 
 
 INDIANS LIVING ON AND NEAR THE BOUNDARY BETWEEN BRITISH COLUMBIA AND THE 
 RUSSIAN-AMERICAN TERRITORY RECENTLY CEDED TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Chimpsa'ms. Living on Chimpsain Peninsula. Their principal village is at Fort 
 Simpson, where a Hudson Bay post (the largest on the coast) has been located for some 
 30 years. There are about 900 Indians at this point, living in large, strongly-built 
 lodges ; about 600 of this tribe are at Metlakahtla, a missionary and trading village 
 about 15 miles to the southward of Fort Simpson, on Chatham Sound. Fort Simpson is 
 a large stockade fort, armed with eight four-pounder iron guns, but there are now but 
 three or four whites at that station. 
 
 Naas River Indians. Naas River empties into Portland Channel at about 55 north 
 latitude, and about 30 miles to the northward and eastward of Fort Simpson. 
 
 Mr. Cunningham (the Naas &River trader for Hudson's Bay Company) was at Fort 
 Simpson while I was there, and kindly furnished such information as I possess in 
 reference to tribes on that and Skeena River. He estimates the total number of Naas 
 Indians at 2,000. 
 
 The Kakes, Foxes, Hydahs, Tongas, and Stikeens trade on the Naas for Oulicoon oil 
 and other articles. The Naas Indians go into Portland Channel near its head to catch 
 salmon, which are said to be very abundant. 
 
 There is a tribe of about 200 souls now living on a westerly branch of the Naas near 
 Stikeen River; they are called "Lackweips," and formerly lived on Portland Channel ; 
 they moved away in consequence of an unsuccessful war with the Naas, and now trade 
 exclusively with the Stikeens. The Hudson's Bay Company is making strong efforts 
 to reconcile this feud, in order to recover their trade.* 
 
 Skeena River Indians. Skeena River empties into Port Essington, about 35 miles below 
 Portland Channel; its source is not far from the head- waters of the Naas. The total 
 number of Indians on the river and its tributaries is reliably estimated at 2,400, 
 namely : 
 
 Kitsalas 400 
 
 Kitswingahs 300 
 
 Kitsiguchs ". '.'."." ".'.'.'.' '.\ 300 
 
 Kitspayuchs 400 
 
 Hagulgets . 500 
 
 Kitsagas ."."."."."."." ." ." ." ." '. '. * ." 500 
 
 Kitswinscolds 400 
 
 The last named tribe lives between the Naas and the Skeena. They are represented 
 as a very superior race, industrious, sober, cleanly, and peaceable. 
 
 Kitatels. Living on the islands inOgden's Channel, about 60 miles below Fort Simp 
 son. They number about 300 persons, and are not considered very trustworthy. 
 These people trade at Metlakahtla. 
 
 Hydalis.This name is given to the Indians on the northern shores of Queen Charlotte's 
 Islands and to all of our Indians on Prince of Wales Islands, except the Hermegas 
 and Chatsinahs. 
 
 The British Indians living along the shore from Virago Sound to North Point and 
 Cape Knox number 300. Those at Masset's Harbor are also estimated at 300. 
 
 The American Hydahs are called Ky-ganuies or Kliavakans. They number about 
 
 *I embrace iinder this heading all Indians who are within easy access to Portland Channel, coming there 
 to trade, &c., or within an area of 60 miles north and south of that inlet. 
 
564 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 600 souls, and are scattered along the shore from Cordova to Tonvel's Bay. Quite a 
 number of the men from these tribes are employed about Victoria and in the saw-mills 
 on Puget Sound. A few years ago some British Hydahs captured the schooner Blue 
 Wing off Seattle, Washington Territory, and murdered all the crew and passengers- 
 some five or six persons. 
 
 Tongas. Not many years ago this was a warlike and numerous tribe, and now num 
 bers not more than 200 souls. They hunt, fish, and trade among the islands and on the 
 northern shores of Portland Channel. Their principal village is on Tongas Island, to 
 which reference is made elsewhere. 
 
 There is no Indian bureau, with attendent complications. 
 
 There is no pretended recognition of the Indian's " title" in fee simple to the lands 
 over which he roams for fish or game. Intoxicating liquors were not introduced among 
 these people so long as the Hudson's Bay Company possessed the monopoly of trade. 
 
 Prompt punishment follows the perpetration of crime, and from time to time the 
 presence of a gunboat serves to remind the savages along the coast of the power of 
 their masters. Not more than two years ago the Fort Rupert Indians were severely 
 punished for refusing to deliver certain criminals demanded by the civil magistrate. 
 Their village was bombarded and completely destroyed by her Britannic Majesty's gun 
 boat Clio. 
 
 As the result of such a policy we find trading posts, well stocked with everything 
 tempting to savage cupidity, safely conducted by one or two whites among distant and 
 powerful tribes. There is not a regular soldier in all British Columbia, (excepting 
 marines on shipboard and at Esquimault,) and yet white men travel through the 
 length and breadth of the province in almost absolute security. Yet the total number 
 of Indians in the colony is estimated at 40,000, and there are not more than 8,000 
 whites. 
 
 Dr. Tolmie informed me that Captain Howard, of our revenue service, had stated in 
 Victoria that no one would be allowed to sell arms or ammunition to the Indians in our 
 Territory. This policy, provided it could be carried out, would simply deprive these 
 people of the means of gaining a livelihood. 
 
 They must have guns, not only to get food, but to secure the furs,skins, &c., of the 
 northwest trade. But these Indians will get arms and ammunition. If our own traders 
 are prohibited from furnishing them, they can and will get them from British Columbia, 
 and in this event they would naturally look upon the British as their best friends. The 
 consequences of such a state of feeling, as affecting our trade and intercourse with 
 them, may readily be imagined. Inasmuch as most of our trading intercourse .with 
 Alaska will be by small vessels running through what is called the " inside passage" 
 along the coast of British Columbia, I deemed it advisable to collect such information 
 as could be obtained in reference to Indians living 011 and near that route. 
 
 For convenient reference I submit herewith a copy of the letter of instructions 
 received from Major General Halleck. (Inclosure A.) 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 ROBERT N. SCOTT, 
 Brevet Lieut. Colonel and A. D. C. 
 
 Brevet Major General JAMES B. FRY, 
 
 Adjutant General Military District of the Pacific. 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 Report from Harry G. Williams. 
 
 THE STACHINE INDIANS. 
 
 FORT WRANGLE, ALASKA TERRITORY, October 30, 1869. 
 
 DEAR SIR : Immediately after leaving you on board the steamer Newbern, I was 
 Bnugly stored away as a guest of the post surgeon, in his quarters. H. M. Kirke, acting 
 assistant surgeon United States Army, gave me a very interesting account of the nature, 
 customs, means of livelihood, occupation, and also of the diseases and manner of their 
 treatment among the Stachine Indians. 
 
 Of their nature he says, they are very docile and friendly, ingenious, and labor 
 well and faithfully, but by being brought into contact with unprincipled white men, 
 are soon found to adopt and imitate their manners and ways. 
 
 In their customs they still maintain the most of those originally observed by their 
 nation. However, many of them take great pride in imitating civilized ways of dress, 
 which in their opinion renders them equally as good as a white man. Their means of 
 livelihood is chiefly by salmon fishing, which they catch in immense numbers and pre 
 pare for winter use by drying and smoking, after which they are stored away care- 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OP INDIAN AFFAIRS. 565 
 
 fully. Many of them use flour, but prefer hard bread and crackers when they are able 
 to obtain them. They are very fond of coffee, sugar, and molasses, and like all other 
 Indians easily become fond of ardent spirits, to obtain which they will sometimes sac 
 rifice nearly everything in their possession. In this manner they are imposed upon by 
 those who know 110 principle or law, who have been known to sell them essence of 
 peppermint, Stoughton's bitters, and absinthe, charging them four dollars a bottle, 
 (holding one pint.) Absinthe is a compound which, if used as a constant beverage, 
 soon unseats the mind, produces insanity, and sometimes death. Dr. Kirke tells me 
 that he can find none among them who are entirely free from the indications of some 
 form of disease. A large number of them are more or less inoculated with the different 
 forms of venereal diseases, which, had they proper protection, could be avoided. But I 
 regret to say that men cannot be blamed for following examples set by their superiors, 
 the consequence of which is, the Indian women become mere concubines, at the will of 
 those whose duty it is to try and elevate and not degrade them. These women are 
 never known to seek any such degrading intercourse, but permit it merely for the pecu 
 niary gain it affords them. Justice, honor, and manhood point the finger of scorn, and 
 cry shame to such. Men with virtuous, noble wives and children, even to stoop to 
 such acts ! Thank a kind heavenly Master, there will be a time when such men can be 
 seen in their true character, and be made to feel the power of an avenging hand. I am' 
 fully convinced that by kind and careful teaching, this great evil could be remedied 
 and the Indian race again restored to its former virtue and honor, and gradually be 
 come an intelligent, industrious, and educated people. 
 
 THE STACHINE RIVER. 
 
 After remaining at Wrangel one week I procured an Indian guide, purchased a canoe 
 and sufficient provisions to last three months, and Monday at half past one p. m., Sep 
 tember 13, started on a tour of inspection up the Stachine River, the mouth of which 
 is about ten miles north from Wrangel Island. We reached main land about four 
 p. m., and after luncheon again resumed our journey, overtaking a number of Indians 
 during the afternoon. 
 
 These Indians were from Wrangel, and on their way to the interior, where they go 
 every fall to trade for the furs of more distant tribes. A systematic form of exchange 
 is carried on from one tribe to another until it reaches the Coast tribes, thus bringing 
 many valuable furs many hundred miles from the interior of a vast and unexplored 
 country. 
 
 As we advanced, day after day the general appearance of the country gradually as 
 sumes a better appearance. The scenery along the river is far beyond my power of 
 description. Immense mountains, whose snow-crowned heads pierce the dome of heaven 
 in solemn and majestic grandeur, rise in every direction. 
 
 COAL, IRON, AND COPPER. 
 
 In many places on these mountains could be seen huge masses of coal, looking as though 
 a little push would set them tumbling down its side. Iron and copper abound in many 
 places, and gold can be found in every direction, very thinly scattered. As yet no dis 
 coveries have been made that would warrant a speedy acquirement of wealth by mining, 
 but the indications are very good that at no distant day very rich mines will be found. 
 A strong party of prospectors left Victoria in May last, for the purpose of exploring the 
 entire interior westward, and are daily expected to make their appearance somewhere 
 along the coast. Many are ready and waiting to embrace any new discoveries they may 
 have made in their long journey. As we advanced to the interior we found a greater 
 change in the condition of the Indians. They being removed from the coast, had no idea 
 of wrong or evil actions. They are far more honest than the same number of white men 
 would be under the same circumstances. You can form an idea of this from the fol 
 lowing, which I learned from an eye-witness : In 1862 a large immigration of miners to 
 this coast was caused by the discoveries of gold about two hundred miles up the Stikine 
 River, at a bar named after the discoverer, (Mr. Chockett, nicknamed Buck,) hence 
 the name "Buck's Bar," which was worked but one or two years, (owing to the diffi 
 culty of getting provisions,) and then, nearly all of them returning, many left their 
 entire kits of tools and working utensils and'goods of every variety ; some hung them 
 up on trees, others stowed them away in caves and niches in the rocks and abandoned 
 them. The Indians are continually passing them, and have been known to replace 
 them when their fastenings would give way and let them fall to the ground, thereby 
 showing not even the existence of a wrong thought in the minds of these red men. 
 The only thing they have ever been known to appropriate was a few potatoes and 
 about five pounds of flour belonging to one of tjie miners there, and this they were almost 
 forced to take from inability to procure sufficient food to sustain life. This in 
 stance can be multiplied by many more of the same nature were it necessary. Fifty 
 miles up the river is an abandoned house, once used by the Hudson's Bay Company 
 for trading with the Indians. 
 
566 EEPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 THE GLACIER OF THE STYCHINE. 
 
 Opposite this place is an immense glacier, about four miles long and an unknown 
 width, extending westward between two large mountains, until it is no longer discernible. 
 It varies in depth from one to five or six hundred feet, commencing near the water and 
 extending along its course. The top is furrowed and cut by the rain into every variety 
 of shape, only needing a small addition to form correct images of houses, towers, giants, 
 caverns, and many other forms. Viewed from the east side of the river, when the sun 
 is shining full upon it, it presents a most beautiful appearance, its innumerable points 
 glistening like burnished silver, and its caverns becoming more dark by comparison. 
 Toward sunset the effect of the day's sun causes it to crack, which makes a deep rumbling 
 noise that can be heard for ten or fifteen and sometimes twenty miles. Immediately 
 opposite its center, across the river, is a boiling spring, bubbling up in eight or ten 
 places, whose water is so hot that it will crisp a person's boots in a very short time, as 
 many incautious persons can testify. It seems as if nature must have been on a frolic 
 during her stay here, and becoming chilled from the glacier, came across the river and 
 found this warm stream in which to sport. 
 
 Along the river are four other smaller glaciers, but, compared with this one, they be 
 come mere snow-balls. Seventy-five miles from the mouth of the river is located the 
 trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company, in charge of their agent, Mr. Chockett, 
 known throughout the country as " Buck ; " he is esteemed very highly by the Indians, 
 from the fact that his dealings have been uniform, and his promises always faithfully 
 redeemed, thus gaining a firm place in their estimation. At the time of my visit he 
 showed me over eight hundred marten, one thousand beaver, and a large number of 
 many other kind of furs ; this being about the middle of the trading season with him. 
 He has been two hundred and seventy-five miles from there up the river into the inte 
 rior prospecting for gold. Sixty miles from there you reach an immense canon, ninety 
 miles long, extending through the Coast or Chigmet mountains. The current in this 
 place runs so rapidly that you can form no idea of its speed. It reminds you of a huge 
 gun, as you see fragments of trees and logs fly along in its angry foaming waters. In 
 some places the rocky sides gradually incline inward, until at a distance of two or three 
 hundred feet above the water they come so close that a good jump will take you across 
 the yawning chasm below. In the spring, when the ice breaks up in the river, the 
 water rises from forty to sixty feet in this canon, and you may imagine its appearance 
 then. 
 
 After crossing the mountains, you reach a beautiful prairie, well watered and plenty 
 of fine timber. Here are found deer, bear, antelope, mountain sheep, beaver, and nearly 
 every variety of game, excepting the buffalo. The gold continues about the same, and 
 is found to a small extent in river bars. No quartz existing precludes the idea of any 
 large deposits in this vicinity. 
 
 The change in the climate is more striking than that of the country. It is clear, 
 bright, and invigorating, with but very little rain. The atmosphere is so pure that you 
 can see much further and more distinctly than in any other climate. The nights are 
 almost as bright as the day ; so bright that you can easily read coarse print. The In 
 dians in this vicinity have almost an Eden to live in game and fish in endless num 
 ber seem to be only waiting their will. These tribes make annual journeys overland 
 southward, and meet those coming from the coast, thus finding a ready market for their 
 furs, for which they obtain ammunition, guns, axes, buttons, cloth, and tobacco ; also 
 many other small notions. But very little liquor ever reaches them, and thus they es 
 cape the great source of degradation and corruption which soon sweeps away nations, 
 power, and happiness. I do not wish my readers to think that I am a rigid temperance 
 man, for I am not. I regard liquor the same as any other article of drink or food ; that 
 is, if it is properly used, it will not injure any one ; but abused, it becomes a scourge 
 and lashes hardest those who embrace it most, degrading them even below the brute 
 creation. Its effect on the Indian is much different and more dangerous than on the 
 white man. When an Indian becomes intoxicated, he becomes wild, reckless, and 
 cruel, not even hesitating to kill any one who may meet his displeasure. They 
 will continue drinking as long as they can procure liquor, thus showing how rapid 
 would be their course toward a fearful end. 
 
 At the time of my leaving Philadelphia, my opinion was like the masses who had 
 never seen or inspected the Indian in his own native power and country ; i. e. " that he 
 was incapable of ever being civilized or becoming of any importance whatever." Since 
 my journey and inspection of the different tribes whom I met, and observing the change 
 produced in them by association alone, every item of doubt regarding it is turned to a 
 certainty, that they can, under honest, faithful instruction, be advanced far beyond our 
 imagination. 
 
 After running up the Stikiue, I then entered one of its tributaries, about one hun 
 dred and fifty miles up, called the Clear Water River. It was named by a party of 
 miners, from the fact of its water being much more clear than the Stikine. The Clear 
 Water runs southeast. It is a very rapid stream indeed, and in many places very shal- 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 567 
 
 low. It can be navigated with difficulty about fifteen or twenty miles in canoes, where 
 rapids occur so frequently that no one cares to risk life and property Ly braving them. 
 Hero the climate is very fine and healthy, inhabited by the " Stick " or Tree Indians. 
 These Indians partake of the same descriptions and traits as those along the Stikine. 
 We left our canoe moored in a small side stream in full view of a trail in constant 
 use bv this tribe, and during a week which I spent in traveling from there in every 
 direction, ' ' "* ----- ,- --- T ^- *i ^~ -4 
 
 canoe v _ 
 
 pass it, but no. indication of their approaching. I prospected in many places for gold, 
 and found but very little difference between the deposits here and elsewhere, with one 
 exception. About ten miles from camp, and five miles up a large creek (coming in from 
 the northeast) called Boulder Creek, deriving its name from the amount of large bould 
 ers found along its course, is a fall of about five or six feet, at the foot of which are 
 some small deposits of coarse gold buried among huge boulders of many tons' weight. 
 It is not in sufficient quantities to warrant an investment in mining tools, &c., neces 
 sary to overcome these obstacles and remunerate any one for time and trouble. 
 
 Becoming fully convinced that there was nothing in this section sufficient to recom 
 pense me for the sacrifice of home and its surroundings, I determined on returning to 
 them as soon as possible. Accordingly, October 21, all things being in readiness, at 
 day-break I bid farewell to our old camp and its pleasant surroundings, headed the 
 canoe down stream, and began a journey of nearly five thousand miles homeward bound. 
 In the first day's travel we run about eighty miles, encountering many dangerous 
 places, but coming through them all safely. Many times, in spite of our united efforts, the 
 current would sweep us against its rocky boundary, and almost smash our canoe. Again 
 in trying to avoid huge trees (left in the river at high water) we would be forced to head 
 our boat directly for them, and with a silent prayer wait the result. The canoe being 
 gradually rounded from its bottom up to a long sharp bow, and driven ten or twelve 
 miles an hour by the strong current, would strike the tree and seem to leap out of the 
 water over it, as if it was running from some fearful danger. 
 
 The next day's run we reached the Great Glacier, and camped in the old house, re 
 maining there one day to overhaul our goods and feast our eyes on the beaiitiful 
 scenery. After tramping over a large mountain and shooting some grouse and squirrels 
 I returned to camp, and next morning determined to reach Wraugel again. It was a 
 long and hard pull of sixty miles, the river having become much wider and the current 
 ran from four to six miles an hour. We reached there about 9 p. m. tired and hungry, 
 and were welcomed back and well entertained. Our friends were about sending a canoe 
 up after us, fearing that we would not survive the dangers of the return trip. We were 
 disappointed at not finding any letters from home there for us. Thursday night we 
 were awakened by the signal gun of the Newbern, and our hearts gave a great bound 
 of joy at the prospect of a speedy return to the dear ones far away. If in this simple, 
 unpretending letter you find anything instructive or interesting I shall be amply re 
 paid for this attempt at a description which, in good hands, would fill a large volume, 
 every item being of interest. As it is I must endeavor to double the " one talent " 
 given, that it may be well with me. For the kind Christian advice given me by you on 
 our way up from San Francisco I thank you most earnestly, for through it I have been 
 greatly benefited. Although I may never repay you, your reward awaits you in 
 heaven. May God's blessing ever rest on you and your efforts is the wish of 
 Your devoted friend, 
 
 HARRY G. WILLIAMS, 
 
 Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 VINCENT COLYER, 
 
 Special United States Indian Commissioner. 
 
 APPENDIX B 3. 
 Letter from Leon Smith. 
 
 WRANGEL ISLAND, A. T., October 30, 1869. 
 
 DEAR SIR : In answer to your questions of yesterday, permit me to say the number of 
 Indians at this point is estimated to be about 500. 
 
 Since my arrival here, the 1st of March, 1869, I have found them to be quiet, and 
 seem well disposed toward the whites. 
 
 They live on fish (smoked salmon) and game, and they provide themselves with 
 clothing from the furs they gather, either by trade or trapping. 
 
 Twice a year most of the Indians make a trip up the Stikine River to Talyan, at 
 which place the Stick tribe reside, and trade with them for interior marten, mink, 
 beaver, bear, wolverine, lynx, laud otter, and some other skins. They take up salmon, 
 
568 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 fish-oil, blankets, domestics, red cloth, beads, molasses, flour, and ill fact every other 
 article suitable for Indian trade. They give about ten yards of print for one prime 
 marten ; three and a half pounds of salmon, three gallons of molasses, for the same, and 
 for other skins in proportion. 
 
 The Stick tribe are a very honest tribe, and partial to the whites. I Avill now start 
 from this point and go with you to Talyan, on the North Fork. We leave here and go 
 about seven miles to the mouth of the Stikiiie with, say, five Indians in my canoe. 
 The current is rapid at all seasons. We reach the glacier, thirty-five miles from the 
 mouth, in two days ; from there we proceed to the Hudson's Bay Company's post, two 
 miles above the boundary line between Hudson's Bay Company and Alaska, a distance 
 of thirty miles, in two days four days from the mouth. From here We find the cur 
 rent very rapid, and we tow our canoe along the two banks ; we send three of our men 
 on shore to tow, and keep one in the bow and stern. We tug along about ten miles a 
 day until we reach Shakesville, named after the chief of the Stikine tribe, with 
 whom you are acquainted. We reach Shakesville in about five days, about fifty miles 
 from the Hudson's Bay Company, being about one hundred and thirty miles from the 
 mouth. From here we tug along twelve miles to Buck's Bar, at which point, or in its 
 vicinity, some eleven miners are at work on surface digging. They average about three 
 dollars a day, and generally come to the mouth to winter. The men do some trading in 
 furs. They here find silver, copper, coal, and iron, but, with the exception of coal, not in 
 large quantities. The coal near the North Fork is of good qaiality, the vein being- 
 some thirty feet. We noAV leave Buck's Bar, bound to Talyan, a distance of twenty 
 miles. We work hard for three days, and at last make fast to the banks at Talyau. 
 We are received kindly by the chief, Nornuck, and by all the tribe. The tribe remain 
 away from home, and at their hunting grounds, about six months out of the year. 
 They do their trading with the Stikines ; the Hudson's Bay Company sends goods up, 
 and* in fact do most all the trading. ******** 
 
 I spoke to you of Mr. Charles Brown's farm and waterfall. He tells me that he has 
 raised about fifteen tons of potatoes, two tons of cabbage, four tons of turnips, and a 
 large quantity of beets, lettuce, peas, carrots, &c. He has a turnip weighing six 
 pounds. Potatoes average well ; some came aboard yesterday. 
 
 The lake is about one mile wide, and two and one-half long ; the fall is about forty 
 feet, with water enough to run forty saw-mills. Mr. Brown has been living at that 
 point about two years ; it is about ten miles from here. 
 
 Out of six pounds of seed Mr. Brown tells me he raised four hundred and fifteen 
 pounds of potatoes. 
 
 Mr. Hoglan, a miner at Buck's Bar for two years, tells me that the altitude of the 
 country will not permit them to raise vegetables ; the country is broken, mountainous, 
 and swampy. 
 
 Of the other tribes of the Territory I know nothing. 
 
 Hoping you will excuse this hurriedly penned memorandum, I am, sir, very re 
 spectfully your obedient servant, 
 
 LE.ON SMITH. 
 
 Hon. VINCENT COLYER, 
 
 Special Indian Commissioner. 
 
 APPENDIX B 3. 
 Letter from W. Wall. 
 
 FORT WRANGEL, A. T., November 8, 1869, 
 
 DEAR SIR : The Stikine Indians live at present on a small bay, near the northern 
 extremity of Wrangel Island, and within about seven miles from the mouth of the 
 river Stikine. They number altogether about three hundred, and are divided into nine 
 tribes, each tribe having a chief, and all subject to one chief. 
 
 The present chief is Shakes ; he does not possess by any means the authority and 
 influence which his predecessor did ; the principal reason is he is very poor, and an 
 other is he reports to the commanding officer all the misdeeds of the village. He is 
 well disposed, and his only fault is his fondness for whisky, which is the cause of his 
 poverty. 
 
 The majority of these Indians are very industrious, and are always anxious to get 
 employment, but, like all the Indians on the coast, are passionately fond of whisky. 
 Such is their desire for it that they will dispose of their most valuable furs at a most 
 extraordinary sacrifice to obtain it. However, since the country came into the posses 
 sion of the United States they have not as many opportunities as formerly of gratifying 
 their passion. 
 
 It is a well known fact, that the sale of whisky to Indians on this coast, (and to the 
 interior Indians through these on the coast,) has reduced their numbers, caused petty 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 569 
 
 feuds, idleness, theft, and predisposes them to disease and mortality, reducing them to 
 the level of the lowest brute. They are artful and cunning, and to gain a point will 
 tell lies in a most bare-faced manner ; at the same time they look upon a respectable 
 white man as incapable of telling an untruth ; and if a white man once deceives them 
 by telling an untruth, or otherwise, they look upon him as below caste, and will avoid 
 as much as possible all future dealings with him. 
 
 It is also a well known fact that immorality among the Indian tribes is not so gen 
 eral as when they associate with the white population. Both male and female seem to 
 suffer alike by the association, and the natural consequence is quite evident disease 
 and a remarkable decrease in population. 
 
 The principal sustenance of these Indians is fish, berries, fish oil, seal oil, venison 
 and mountain sheep. Potatoes and turnips they are very fond of, and buy them in 
 considerable quantities from the Hydahs, who live further up, and seem to understand 
 their cultivation. 
 
 The soil and climate here are well suited for the growth of potatoes, turnips, cab 
 bage, carrots, parsnips, beets, &c.; but both from the want of knowledge and of imple 
 ments, the Indians never make an earnest attempt ; they simply cultivate a few pota 
 toes in a most indifferent manner. 
 
 The fur-bearing animals on the coast are numerous, and good of their kind, viz., 
 bears, mink, and hair seal ; and it is strange how these Indians neglect, in a great 
 measure, this very important source of wealth. I can account for it in this way : their 
 appliances for procuring the means of subsistence are so indifferent, and their total 
 neglect of raising any vegetables leaves them in that condition that they really have 
 neither the time or the independence to go out for a two or three months' trapping 
 expedition. However, there are some exceptions which go to prove the statement 
 which I make. I know one Indian who last winter killed twelve large and eight small 
 bears, about thirty minks, and a number of hair seals ; he had besides a small patch of 
 potatoes ; this Indian had only his wife to assist him. In conclusion, I have no hesi 
 tation in stating, (after nearly three years' experience in their means and ways,) that 
 these Indians, if properly instructed, and advantage taken of the resources of the 
 country, they might not only become comfortable, but by the sale of furs and their 
 other produce become comparatively wealthy. 
 
 I have much pleasure in offering you these hurried remarks, hoping you might find 
 them useful in assisting you in the good work you have undertaken. 
 I am, sir. yours, most respectfully, 
 
 W. WALL. 
 
 Hon. VINCENT COLYER, 
 
 United States Special Indian Commissioner. 
 
 APPENDIX B 4. 
 
 Mr. William H. Dalla's general description of Southeastern Alaska is so full of valu 
 able information that I append it to Mr. William H. Smith's and Mr. Wall's account of 
 this district : 
 
 * THE 6lTKAN DISTRICT. 
 
 "This district extends from the southern boundary to the peninsula of Alaska, in 
 cluding the island of Kadiak. 
 
 "The surface of this portion of the Territory is rugged and mountainous in the ex 
 treme, the northern part only affording any appreciable amount of level and arable 
 lauds suitable for cultivation. Small patches occur here and there where small farms 
 might be located, but, as a rule, the mountains descend precipitously into the sea, with 
 their flanks covered with dense and almost impenetrable forests. These rise to the 
 level of about fifteen hundred feet above the sea. Here and there a bare streak shows 
 where an avalanche has cut its way from the mountain top to the waterside ; and oc 
 casionally the shining front of a glacier occupies some deep ravine, contrasting curiously 
 with the dense foliage on either side. 
 
 "The canals and channels of the Alexander Archipelago form the highways of the 
 country, and so intricate and tortuous are they, that they afford access to almost every 
 part of it without setting foot on shore. 
 
 " Soil. The soil is principally decayed vegetable mold, with substrata of gravel or 
 dark-colored clay. 
 
 "The soil of Kadiak and Cook's Inlet is of a similar character, but from an admixture 
 of volcanic sand thrown up by the waves, and abundant sandstone strata, it is lighter, 
 drier, and better adapted for cultivation. 
 
 " Climate. The climate of the southern portion of this district is intolerably rainy. 
 The annual rain-fall at Sitka varies from sixty to ninety-five inches, and the annual 
 
570 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 number of more or less rainy days varies from one hundred and ninety to two hundred 
 and eighty-five. In Unalaska the annual number of rainy days is about one hundred 
 and fifty, and the annual fall of rain (and melted snow) is about forty-four inches. 
 This last estimate is probably not too low for the island of Kadiak and the eastern part 
 of Cook's Inlet. The annual means of the temperature about Sitka are by no means 
 low, in spite of the rainy summers. The following table will indicate the means for the 
 severe seasons during the year ending October 31, 1868, from the United States Coast 
 Survey observations : 
 
 "SITKA METEOROLOGICAL ABSTRACT. 
 
 Season. 
 
 Mean 
 Temp. 
 
 Rain 
 fall. 
 
 Fair 
 days. 
 
 Cloudy 
 days. 
 
 Rainy 
 days. 
 
 Snowy 
 days.' 
 
 Sprin f 
 
 Fahr. 
 42.6 
 
 Inches. 
 14.64 
 
 22 
 
 70 
 
 33 
 
 15 
 
 Summer 
 
 55.7 
 
 10.14 
 
 21 
 
 71 
 
 36 
 
 
 
 
 45.9 
 
 28.70 
 
 19 
 
 72 
 
 44 
 
 5 
 
 Winter 
 
 31 9 
 
 14 50 
 
 44 
 
 47 
 
 21 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Year 
 
 44.07 
 
 68.07 
 
 106 
 
 260 
 
 134 
 
 26 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Minimum temperature 11, maximum temperature 71, for the year. 
 
 "It will be noted that the average temperature of the winter is hardly below the 
 freezing point, the greatest degree of cold being eleven above zero. The average of 
 many years observation places the mean winter temperature about +33 Fahr., which 
 is about that of Manheim, on the Rhine, and warmer than Munich, Vienna, or Berlin ; 
 and about the same as that of Washington, (one thousand and ninety-five miles further 
 south,) and warmer than New York, Philadelphia, or Baltimore. The cloudiness and 
 rain of the summer season, however, prevents it from being nearly as warm as at any 
 of the places above mentioned. Very little ice is made at Sitka; the harbor is always 
 open, and the island is noted for the abundance of a small species of humming bird. 
 
 "Inhabitants. These are principally Indians in the Alexander Archipelago. Treated 
 with firmness and decision they are harmless ; but if vacillation or weakness mark the 
 dealings of Americans, as they did the policy of the Russian American Company, mas 
 sacres and other exhibitions of Indian virtue and courage will be the inevitable result. 
 North of the archipelago on the shores of Prince William Sound, and the north shore of 
 Cook's Inlet, and on the whole of Alaska Peninsula and the islands south of it, the in 
 habitants are of the Esquimaux stock, intelligent, ingenious and docile. 
 
 "Natural productions. In the southern part of this district, from an agricultural point 
 of view, there is little beside the timber. Near Fort Simpson, Dr. Kellogg describes 
 timothy, white clover, and inedick, or burr clover, as flourishing with great luxuriance. 
 Dr. Rothrock says the same of the native grasses in the interior. But south of Prince 
 William Sound there is so little low land, or prairie, that there is no good opportunity for 
 raising fodder, and the climate would render its preservation extremely precarious. The 
 character of the country is so rugged that it would .hardly be advisable to keep many 
 cattle; and grain-raising, on account of the moisture, is not to be thought of. At Sitka 
 some vegetables do very well. Turnips, beans, peas, carrots, beets, lettuce, and rad 
 ishes succeed well. Potatoes are small and watery from want of sun and excess of mois 
 ture. Cabbages are luxuriant, but will not head. Cereals fail. The milk and cream 
 from a few cows are very good. Pork has a disagreeable flavor from being fed on fish 
 entrails, &c. 
 
 " To the northern portion of this district the above remarks do not apply. Kadiak 
 and Cook's Inlet, northeast of Fort Alexander, have comparatively colder winters and 
 drier and warmer summers than the islands and coast to the west or south of them. 
 Haying can be successfully carried on, the native grasses being valuable for fodder, 
 green or dry, while the cultivated grasses succeed very well. Barley and oats have 
 been successfully raised near the settlement of St. Nicholas, on Cook's Inlet. There is 
 no want of wood ; while it does not encroach on the lowland, which is clear of trees 
 and underbrush. Dr. Kellogg says of Kadiak, ' Various herbs and grasses clothe the 
 mountains to their summits. The summer climate here, unlike Sitka, is sufficiently 
 fair for haying. We saw many mown valleys from which a good supply of hay from 
 the native grasses had been secured. The cattle were fat, the milk abundant. The 
 butter was yellow and appeared remarkably rich, though of a disagreeable flavor, 
 which might be owing to the manner of making.' The potatoes are better than at 
 Sitka, but do not attain a very large size. It has been mentioned that the cattle dis 
 tributed to the natives by the Russian American Company did very well in Cook's 
 Inlet. 
 
 " Timber. The agricultural staple of the southern Sitkan district is timber. I name 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 571 
 
 the forest trees iu the order of their value. The yellow cedar (C. Nuikcensis, Spach.) is 
 the most valuable wood on the Pacific coast. It combines a fine, close texture with 
 considerable hardness, extreme durability, and pleasant fragrance. For boat-building 
 it is unsurpassed, in addition to its lightness, toughness, ease of workmanship and 
 great durability. 
 
 " After ascending some distance the mountain sides of the island of Sitka, the wood, 
 which appears in increased denseness before us, consists particularly of a noble Thuja, 
 (T. excelm, C. NutJccensis.) This is the timber most valued here. It occurs frequently 
 further down, but the more predominant spruce trees conceal it from view ; but here it 
 constitutes almost the entire timber. From its agreeable perfume, it is known to the 
 Russians as chishnik, or scented wood. This is the wood formerly exported to China, 
 and returned to us as "camphor wood," &c., famous for excluding moths. In repairing 
 old Fort Simpson, a stick of this wood, among the pine timbers used for underpinning, 
 was found to be the only sound log after twenty-one years' trial. A wreck on the 
 beach at Sitka, originally constructed of this timber, was found thirty-two years after 
 as sound as the day it was built ; even the iron bolts were not corroded. 
 
 "Sitka spruce, or white pine, (Abies Sitkensis.) This tree, well known in the lumber 
 trade of the coast, attains a large size, and is noteworthy from its invariably straight 
 and slowly tapering trunk. The wood is not so durable as the last species, but is 
 
 pine." It is much larger in its growth than the next species, 
 sider it a variety of the balsam. Balsam fir, (Abies Canadensis, Mich.) The wood of 
 this species is almost valueless, but the bark, as well as the bark of the last named, is 
 used in tanning. Scrub pine, (Pinus contorta, Dougl.) This species seldom grows more 
 than forty feet clear trunk and eighteen inches in diameter. It passes as far north as 
 the junction of the Lewis and the Pelly rivers in the interior, but no further. 
 
 " Other trees, such as the little juniper, wild pear, and the like, may be of some use, 
 but from their small size or scarcity are of little economical value. 
 
 "In Kacliak Dr. Kellogg found the growth of timber (Abies fiitkensis) confined to the 
 eastern valleys and slopes of the island. The largest seen were three feet in diameter, 
 and ninety to one hundred feet high. In the governor's yard were masts and spars 
 over one hundred feet in length, scarcely tapering two inches in thirty or forty feet. 
 These were from Kadiak ; but many are brought in rafts from Spruce Island, ten or 
 fifteen miles off. 
 
 " The wooded district comprises the whole Alexander Archipelago, and the mainland 
 north to Lituya Bay ; from this point to Prince William Sound little is known of the 
 character of the timber ; but in the latter locality fine timber abounds, and also in the 
 interior. 
 
 " GENERAL SUMMARY. 
 
 "While in the Youkon territory we cannot look for self-supporting agricultural 
 districts, nor reasonably expect any one to obtain a sustenance by farming alone ; still 
 the settler called there to develop the resources of the country, be they lumber, fish or 
 furs, may have milk in his tea, and many vegetables on his table, if he possess the 
 energy and knowledge to make the most of his opportunities. It will not be necessary 
 for him to rely 011 the products of the chase alone, if he will but take the necessary 
 care to provide shelter for his cattle, and to cut the perennial grasses which cover the 
 prairies and lowlands for their fodder during the winter. 
 
 " In the Aleutian district is situated the larger proportion of arable lands, and in 
 this and the northern part of the Sitkan district the climatic conditions are the most 
 favorable in the Territory. Their resemblance to the conditions which prevail in North 
 western Scotland and its islands has been already demonstrated at length ; and the 
 capability of this district for agriculture may therefore be reasonably inferred. Oats 
 and barley, possibly wheat and rye, may succeed on these islands. Their abundant 
 capacity for producing root crops of good quality, except possibly potatoes, may be 
 considered as settled. That cattle will do well there is no doubt ; and the Pacific coast 
 may yet derive its best butter and cheese from the Aleutian and Northern Sitkan dis 
 trict. Sheep, goats, and swine have not been thoroughly tried as yet, but the infer 
 ence is that they also would succeed. 
 
 " Most of the berries found in the Youkon territory are common to the Aleutian 
 district, and the climate, except from its moisture, presents no obstacles to the success 
 of some kinds of fruit trees. It is to be hoped that some one will try the experiment. 
 These islands, with the country around Cook's Inlet, are unquestionably the best agri 
 cultural region in our new possessions. 
 
 " The resources of the southern Sitkan district lie apparently entirely in its timber. 
 This is unquestionably needed on the Pacific slope, and is a most valuable acquisition. 
 No better lumbering district could be imagined with water transportation everywhere, 
 and mountain sides so steep that a slide, easily made of comparatively worthless 
 timber, will conduct the more valuable logs directly to the water-side. 
 
572 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 " Some vegetables will be raised in the future as in the past, and some stock will be 
 kept in this part of Alaska, but expectations should be moderate. To the northern 
 part of this district the remarks on the Aleutian district will apply. 
 
 " Many reports may be found in circulation, even in official documents, in regard to 
 Alaska, which have very little foundation. It is believed that in this report nothing 
 is asserted which is not susceptible of easy proof. It may be said that Massachusetts 
 has never exported any native productions except granite and ice. Alaska, on the 
 contrary, if we dismiss the fabulous stories of fossil ivory, and gold and silver, may be 
 able in course of time to give not only ice, marble, coal, and ship timber, but butter 
 and cheese, mutton and beef. Perhaps more palatable fruit may take the place of the 
 cranberries which have already found their way to San Francisco markets. 
 
 APPENDIX C. 
 Report from F. K. Louthan on the Indian tribes of Alaska. 
 
 ALASKA, October 28, 1869. 
 
 DEAR Sm : A residence of nearly two years at Sitka, intimately associated with the 
 trade of the country, and in daily communication with the Indians, has afforded me 
 some advantages for observing the habits and wants, manners and customs, of these 
 people. 
 
 I need only refer you to the Sitkas, whose history and character afford an example 
 that pertains, in a peculiar degree, to all of the tribes on our coast, from Fort Tongas, 
 near our southern boundary line, to Copper River, away to the northward .and west 
 ward, about six hundred miles. 
 
 The village of the Sitkas consists of fifty-six houses, well built and comfortable, ad 
 joining the town of Sitka, or " New Archangel," being separated only by the palisade, a 
 rude defensive line of upright logs, placed by the old Russian American Company. 
 The village contains a population of about twelve hundred souls all told. They have 
 been, and are now, governed by one great chief, aided by sub-chiefs, all of whom are 
 elected by the tribe. It is impossible for me to give the number of the latter, their 
 position being neither arbitrary nor perpetual, as is that of the great chief or u tye." 
 They live by fishing and hunting, each in their proper season, the men devoting a 
 large portion of their time trading with the interior Indians for furs, giving in ex 
 change their dried salmon and halibut, cotton goods, printed and plain, blankets, guns, 
 powder, balls, &c. 
 
 They are industrious and ingenious, being able to imitate admirably almost anything 
 placed before them. Of their industry, I need only to refer to the fact that for the quar 
 termaster and myself, in a few days' notice, they supplied, under great disadvantages, 
 both of weather and means, one thousand cords of wood, Russian measure, of 216 cubic 
 feet each. This large amount of wood was cut from one to four miles away from our 
 town, and delivered and corded by them as well, if not better, than would have been 
 done by the same white labor under similar disadvantages. 
 
 Our Indians are shrewd traders, readily understanding prices and values, easily un 
 derstanding both our coins of different denominations, and our " greenbacks." They 
 are tractable and kind when kindly treated, but vindictive and exacting full compen 
 sation for wrongs inflicted, -come from what quarter they may. All difficulties, even 
 that of killing one of their number, is measured by an estimated value, " so many 
 blankets," or the equivalent in money, or what they may elect. The failure to 
 promptly pay for a real or supposed injury is at once the signal for retaliation. I can 
 but look with great favor upon the system on the part of the government, of adapting 
 itself to the one idea, immediate settlement with their people for all wrongs of magni 
 tude, (whether on the part of the military or the individual,) entirely upon estimated 
 value. This is the time-honored custom of the red man in Alaska, and pertains to all 
 alike, wherever dispersed throughout the vast Territory. 
 
 At present it is more than folly to attempt to induct him into any other way of 
 looking at a wrong or injury. Authority, with definite instructions to our rulers, 
 whether civil or military, to in this way settle all disputes, especially when life has 
 been taken, will always keep him (the Indian) peaceable and friendly, and in the end 
 save to the government many notable lives and a large expenditure of treasure. 
 
 I am led to these reflections by observing that in this way the Hudson's Bay Company 
 and the Russian American Fur Company have, for nearly 'a century, lived in compara 
 tive security among the Pacific coast Indians, failing in but few instances, a confidence 
 betrayed, property taken, or life endangered. 
 
 Again, my own personal experience is a powerful example of the system of such a 
 course. Last New Year's eve a difficulty occurred at the market-house in Sitka, 
 between a Chilkaht chief and a soldier, a sentinel, which resulted in the imprisonment 
 
EEPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 573 
 
 in the guard-house of the chief, and through some unaccountable manner the death 
 by shooting, in a day or two afterwards, of three Indians. Fora full account of these 
 early difficulties I refer you to a report of General J. C. Davis, made about that time. 
 
 Among the Indians killed was one Chilkaht, one Kate, and one Sitka. The Kates very 
 promptly sought the usual remedy, but, failing to satisfy -themselves, adopted their 
 extreme remedy, " an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth ;" meeting two white men 
 near their village, promptly dispatched them, thereby lost all of their village^burned 
 by order of the general commanding ; hence the so-called " Ka1& war." 
 
 "For nearly five months no coast or interior Indians appeared among us, to the great 
 detriment of trade, the Chilkahts especially keeping themselves aloof from us all winter. 
 Well knowing the chief and most of his people, I determined to pay them ayisit for 
 purpose of trade and to restore friendly relations. *^*^a small schoonerreached 
 their village in May last, aid found them sullen and listless, and effected but little in 
 any shape for several days. At the end of the fourth day our little vessel was suddenly 
 boarded by about seventy-five well-armed men, bent on satisfaction either in 
 property or life, for the man killed at Sitka nearly five mouths previous. The exi 
 gencies of my situation required prompt and immediate action. Asking, from our 
 closed cabin, an audience, it being granted, I stepped out among them with my inter 
 preter, an Indian, and whilst protesting against their wish that I should pay for what 
 had been done by our military chief at Sitka, satisfied them by giving them a letter to 
 the general commanding, asking him, for the sake of trade and security to life, to pay 
 for the man killed, giving my promise to the Indians to pay for the dead man if the 
 general refused. 
 
 The general refused to listen to the delegation waiting on him with my letter. I re 
 turned with my vessel again to Sitka and to Chilkaht, when I promptly paid the 
 price asked thirteen blankets and one coat, amounting in value, all told, to about 
 fifty dollars, coin. I feel quite sure that in this simple settlement I arrested serious 
 trouble to myself and probably to the government. 
 
 I made afterward a similar settlement with the Chilkahts in Sitka, for one of their 
 men killed by a young man in my employ. I can safely say that dealt with in this 
 way, there need never be any serious complication of Indian affairs in this Territory. 
 Many irregularities and immoralities exist among our Coast Indians. Like their 
 brothers of the plains, they are great lovers of whisky, and will barter their all to 
 get it. They should be prohibited its use, but how to effect this is a problem I am 
 unable to solve, unless the importation is entirely prohibited. That our Indians are 
 susceptible of a high standard of cultivation there can be no possible doubt. This can 
 only t>e done by the aid of industrial and educational schools. The missionary is 
 working to good advantage at Vancouver among the Hydahs, and at Fort Simpson 
 among the Chemseans. In these two tribes can be found men and women of high 
 culture and refinement, fit to " grace almost any position in life." 
 
 The Kajojshen, our own Indians from Tongas to the Copper River, are quite as intelli 
 gent and easy of culture, needing only the same liberal system of education to, in a 
 very short time, fully utilize them for every purpose of government and usefulness. 
 
 The inhospitality of the country, differing as it does so widely from the usual fields 
 of civilized men, must for a long time make the Indians the nucleus of population of 
 Alaska ; and if so, how very essential that he be at once advanced through education 
 and example to his high destiny. 
 
 While the manners and customs are the same of the whole Koloshen race, there is 
 a marked difference in the wealth and condition rof those tribes living on the mainland 
 coast over that of the islander. Position, custom, and numbers have given to the former 
 the entire control of the valuable trade with the interior, in .pome five of the great 
 mainland tribes, each warlike and powerful, and equally jealous of any encroach 
 ments on their peculiar privileges. djP 
 
 Beginning north we have the Copper River Indians, variously estimated from three 
 to four thousand strong j but little is known of this people. They are, however, known 
 to be very rich in furs. 
 
 The early Russians told fabulous stories of the existence of both gold and copper on 
 this river, which is proved by the fact that the Indians are at times seen to use these 
 metals in their ornaments. 
 
 Next in order, south, are the Klahinks, about one thousand strong. They live in the 
 great basin or park known as Behring Bay, between Mount St. Elias and Mount Fair- 
 weather, and have a splendid communication with the interior by means of two long, 
 fine rivers emptying into the bay. These Indians are gentle, hospitable and kind, but 
 are poor, having been neglected by the traders for the last three years. They are in 
 quick communication with a splendid fur-bearing country, and only require a market 
 to develop splendid resources. 
 
 Next in order are the Hoonid, or Gross Sound Indians, two thousand strong. They 
 live on the eastern bank of the sound for a distance of sixty miles, and are the oil mer 
 chants of the coast, taking enormously large quantities of seal, dog-fish, and ulican 
 
574 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 oil, which they barter to their brethren along the coast. These oils are used largely by 
 our Indians as an article of food ; it is used by them as we use butter. 
 
 At the head of the Chatham Straits, almost due north from Sitka two hundred and 
 twenty miles, are the Chilkahts, at least ten thousand strong. They are a brave and war 
 like people, " more sinned against than sinning." I have had much to do with them, and 
 ever found them honest, faithful and kind. Their villages extend from the mouth to a 
 distance of seventy-five miles up the Chilkaht River. Coal and iron abound in inex- 
 
 
 the mountain passes of 
 every hand can be seen quartz cropping boldly out from a width of from one to twenty 
 feet. Nothing is known of its character or value. These Indians are among the richest, 
 if not the wealthiest, of our Coast Indians. Large quantities of the most valuable furs 
 
 annually gathered and sold by them. They are in every way independent. 
 , _ wenty miles north of Sitka, and east of Admiralty Island seventy-five miles, are the 
 Takoos, living at the head of Takoo Inlet, on the Takoo River. These Indians claim to 
 be richer in furs than any of the tribes around them. About the same quantity can be 
 got here as on the Chilkaht. Some idea may be gathered of the large trade at one 
 time done with them when I state but a short time ago the Hudson's Bay Company 
 made their trade lease from the Russian-American Company's furs taken in a single trip 
 of their steamer over five thousand marten skins, and other valuable skins in proportion. 
 
 The Takoos number about the same as the Chilkahts, and are a proud and haughty 
 race. Gold is well known to exist anywhere along this river, but the Indians have 
 steadily refused to permit any development. Coal is also found here in large quanti 
 ties ; indeed it is found throughout the coast and islands of our inland waters. Of 
 salmon it would be invidious to particularize ; they are found in endless numbers any 
 where in our fresh-water streams. The largest and best are found in the Takoo, Chil 
 kaht, Behring's Bay and Copper Rivqr, reaching an enormous size, many of them weigh 
 ing seventy pounds. 
 
 Give Alaska a market and she will soon develop a second New England. 
 
 The conformation of our mountain ranges are not unlike those of Washington, Ore 
 gon, and California. They form our coast and are iron-clad a greater portion of them 
 iron. A distance of twenty or thirty miles will pass one through this range, where is 
 found an almost level plateau well covered with timber. This plateau extends inland 
 for a distance of from seventy-five to one hundred and fifty miles, when another chain 
 of mountains is reached, answering to what is known as the Cascade Range in Oregon, 
 or the Blue Range in California. 
 
 There can be no doubt, from what the Indians tell us, in this plateau, between the 
 two ranges, the prospects will at no distant day develop a field as rich in the precious 
 minerals as any found in the southward. 
 Very respectfully, 
 
 F. K. LOUTHAN. 
 
 Hon. VINCENT vCoLYER, 
 
 Fort Wrangle, A. T. 
 
 ' 
 APPENDIX C 2. 
 
 Letter from Frank Mahoney on the Indians and their trade in Eastern Alaska, 
 
 SITKA, A. T. 
 
 DEAR SIR : In compliance with your request I give you my views in relation to the 
 various Indian tribes of this Territory as far as my observation goes. In regard to the 
 population and number of some of the tribes I have no data ; of others I can speak 
 from observation ; that is to say, from Cook's Inlet to the southern boundary. 
 
 From what I can learn of the extreme northwest, in the Behring Sea to the Straits, 
 the Indians lead a wandering life, and are variously designated as the " Kochuiisky," 
 " Onossky," " Cagatsky," and " Colching." These tribes are estimated from four thou 
 sand to five thousand. During the winter months, say from October to April, they will 
 wander over immense tracts of country in bands of from fifty to one hundred, sometimes 
 undergoing great privation ; and it has'been said that they will sometimes sacrifice one of 
 their number to save the rest from starvation. Their occupation is trapping and hunt 
 ing the reindeer. They will travel during this season of the year from the valley of 
 Youkon to Copper River, stopping for short periods where game and furs are plenty. 
 They will sometimes touch the shores of Prince William's Sound, Cook's Inlet, and also 
 the western shore, in Behring Sea. The skins they collect are fine marten, mink, silver 
 and black fox. The few natives the writer has seen, shows them to be a peaceable 
 race and respectful to the white man, looking upon him as a superior ; there is no 
 doubt but they could be shaped into useful citizens in time. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 575 
 
 To the south, on the Aleutian chain of islands and on the peninsula of Unalaska, are 
 the Aleutes, a very quiet race, and nearly all Christians. Their number is said to be 
 about seven thousand. Those living on the islands are engaged in fur-sealing, sea - 
 otter hutting, and trapping the fox, of which there are the silver, cross, and red. They 
 are found employed at the different trading posts in the Territory. 
 
 The Indians of Cook's Inlet and adjacent waters are called " Kanisky." They are 
 settled along the shore of the inlet and on the east shore of the peninsula. A very so 
 ciable race of Indians, their number is from five hundred to eight hundred. During 
 the winter months they leave the shores for the purpose of hunting and trapping, 
 when in the spring they return to their summer homes, dispose of their winter pro 
 ducts to traders for tea, sugar, tobacco, sheeting, prints, clothing, flour, hardware, such 
 as knives, axes, hatchets, &c. The spring and summer, till the latter part of June, is 
 passed in idleness, when the salmon season commences, and lasts until August, when 
 they dry large quantities of salmon, weighing from forty to one hundred pounds each. 
 
 East of Cook's Inlet, in Prince William's Sound, there are but few Indians ; they 
 are called " Nuchusk." There may be about four hundred in all, with some few Aleutes. 
 
 Hutchinson, Kohlo & Co. have a post on the south end of Heuenbrooke Island, which 
 is the depot for the furs that come down the Copper River, although they collect many 
 sea-otter, for which the shore about the mouth of Copper River and around Middleton 
 Island is famous. 
 
 Every year, the middle of June, three or four large skin-canoes, capable of carrying 
 five tons each, are sent up Copper River, loaded with trading goods, done up in one- 
 huiidred-pound packages, covered with water-tight skins, so that should accident hap 
 pen, which not unfrequently occurs, the goods are portable to handle. It takes about 
 eighty days to make the trip ; the canoes are hauled most of the way on the ice, on 
 their ascent of the river. On the return, the winter collection of furs are brought 
 down, the river then being clear of ice. The magazine is about eighty miles up the river. 
 The Indians about Copper River are called " Madnussky," or Copper Indians, and may 
 be classed with the wandering tribes. To the east, along the coast, about one hundred 
 and fifty miles from the mouth of Copper River, we come to Behring Bay. The most 
 northern of the Kolosh Indians, of which there are numerous tribes, extending to Port 
 land Canal, all speak the same language with a little difference in dialect. They 
 are a savage and piratical race, and as a general thing are not to be trusted. Fear of 
 punishment for outrages keeps them in order. 
 
 I herewith add a list of the tribes from Behring Bay to the southern boundary : 
 
 Residence. 
 
 Name of trihe. 
 
 Number. 
 
 Behrin" 1 Bay 
 
 Yucatat 
 
 300 
 
 Behring Bay 
 
 Stikine 
 
 1 200 
 
 Behrin" 1 Bay . . ... 
 
 
 600 
 
 Cross Sound 
 
 Whmega 
 
 500 
 
 Cross Sound 
 
 Whinegi (Interior) 
 
 800 
 
 Chilkaht Inlet 
 
 Chilkaht ' 
 
 2 500 
 
 Chilkaht Inlet 
 
 
 300 
 
 Stephen Passage 
 
 Takon 
 
 2 000 
 
 Stephen Passage 
 
 Sitka 
 
 1 000 
 
 Admiralty Island 
 
 
 1 000 
 
 Admiralty Island 
 
 Kake 
 
 750 
 
 Admiralty Island 
 
 Auk 
 
 750 
 
 
 
 
 Of the Yucatat tribe, they have but few furs in the winter ; they do nothing in spring. 
 They trade and trap with some Indians to the south of them, who live on some small 
 streams that empty into the ocean. I could get no information from them respecting their 
 neighbors, respecting their numbers and language. All they said was, that they were 
 more numerous than themselves, and they made good trade with them for marten, mink, 
 fox, bear, wolverine, and lynx, for which they gave them tobacco, brown sheeting, 
 needles, thread, knives, buttons, beads, &c. 
 
 The Yucatats have been in the habit of trading with the Sitkas and Chilkahts, who 
 in the summer season pay them visits, taking from Sitka such articles as dry goods, 
 powder, shot, knives, and trinkets, bringing back furs. 
 
 The Whinegas have but few furs ; they are chiefly employed in hair-seal fishing, of 
 which they get abundance ; they get in trade about eight cents apiece for them. They 
 also get some marten, mink, fox, and bear from Cross Sound. 
 
 We go north to Chilkaht, at the head of the inlet so named, where there is a river on 
 which there are three villages ; each village is presided over by a chief. 
 
 The Chilkahts are the most numerous of all the Kolosh tribes. They catch some furs 
 about their own grounds, but the greater portion comes from the interior, or where 
 they go to trade twice a year, spring and fall. There is no doubt but they make a big 
 profit on the skins they bring down. 
 
576 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 Nothing is known of these interior Indians, only what the Coast Indians say, that 
 they are called " Si-him-e-na, or Stick Indians." They will allow no whites to pass up 
 the rivers. The trade which the Coast Indians take into the interior consists of dry 
 goods, blankets, tobacco, powder, shot, and light flint-lock muskets, if they can get them. 
 Although the ammunition and muskets are a prohibited trade in this Territory, still 
 the Indians get them from the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Simpson. Steel traps, 
 knives, hatchets, needles and thread, and little cheap jewelry, form their principal 
 trade, for which they get in exchange, marten, mink, silver, cross, and red fox, black, 
 brown, and grizzly bear^ lynx, wolverine, ermine, beaver, land otter, and some inferior 
 skins. The price they give may be represented thus : Marten, 50 cents ; mink, 25 cents ; 
 lynx, 20 cents ; silver fox, $1 25 ; cross and red fox, from 25 cents to 50 cents ; wolver 
 ine, 37-J- cents ; bear, black, 50 cents to $1 50 ; bear, grizzly, 50 cents to $1 50 ; bear, 
 brown, 50 cents ; beaver, 20 cents to 40 cents ; land otter, 50 cents. 
 
 These they exchange Avith the trader at an advance of from two hundred to four hun 
 dred per cent, for such articles as they require. The traders' tariff may be quoted : For 
 prints and sheeting, 25 cents per yard ; tobacco, $1 50 per pound ; molasses, $1 per gal 
 lon; powder, $1 50 per pound; shot, 50 cents per pound ; blankets, (assorted,) $3 to $6. 
 Steel traps, knives, vermilion, flour, hard bread, beans, rice, and some few articles in 
 the way of clothing, pants, shirts, (cotton and woollen,) blue cloth caps with glazed 
 covers, shoes, and some minor articles. 
 
 The trading prices for skins are : Marten, $2 to $3 ; mink, 25 cents to $1 50 ; bear, 
 black, $1 50 to $3 50 ; bear, grizzly, $1 to $3 10 ; bear, brown, 50 cents to $2 50 ; fox, 
 silver, $4; fox, cross, $1 50 to $2; fox, red, 75 cents to $1 ; beaver, 80 cents to $1 per 
 pound ; land otter, $1 50 to $2 ; hair seal, 8 cents to 10 cents ; deer skins, 15 cents to 20 
 cents. 
 
 The above may answer for the Indians from Chilkaht to Portland Inlet. Of the Ta- 
 koos, the same may be said as of the Chilkahts and tribes above Stephen's Passage. 
 
 On the east of Admiralty Island are the Koot-se-noos. They have but few furs, but 
 collect considerable hair seal and deer skins. They also raise quantities of potatoes of 
 good quality and fair size. 
 
 Coming east through Pearl Straits to Sitka are the tribe of that name. They are 
 employed in trading with the other tribes, hunting, and fishing, and are employed as 
 porters and laborers about the town of Sitka. They also cut nearly all the cord wood 
 that is used by the citizens. They may be considered very useful adjuncts of the town 
 citizens, as they are the chief purveyors, supplying them with all kinds of fish and 
 game, such as ducks, geese, venison, grouse, &c. 
 
 Going south around Baranof Island, and up through a portion of Chath.am Straits, 
 we come to the Rat tribe on Kyro and Kespriano Islands. They catch some furs, such 
 as lynx, bear, and hair seal, besides trading with some of theirneighbors. Their trade 
 has fallen off considerably since the occupation of the Territory by the Americans. 
 They formerly were in the habit of getting their trading goods from small crafts from 
 Victoria, but at present the Indians north, south, east, for two hundred miles, either 
 come to Sitka or get their wants supplied from small crafts that load or are owned by 
 Sitka merchants. 
 
 Passing east and south through Frederick's Sound, we come to Wrangle Island and 
 the mouth of the Stikine River, where are the villages of the Stikine tribe. They 
 were some years ago a numerous tribe, but liquor and its concomitant vices materially 
 lessened their numbers. They collect considerable marten, mink, bear, and lynx. 
 They have formerly carried on considerable trade with the interior tribes, but since the 
 discovery of gold in 1862, the competition of the whites has lessened their trade. 
 
 The furs that are collected in this section are principally disposed of at Fort Wrangle. 
 
 To the west and south of Prince of Wales Island is an off-shoot of the Hydah or 
 Queen Charlotte Island Indians. They number some three hundred and are called 
 An-e-ga. They, it may be said, are the onlylndians from Behring Bay to Portland 
 Inlet that speak a different language from the rest. They raise considerable quantities 
 of potatoes, trap mink, bear, and beaver. They also go up the Naas River in March 
 for the collection of the hoolicon or candle-fish oil, which, when pressed, is as well 
 flavored as leaf lard. 
 
 In Clarence Straits and adjacent islands they are the connecting link between the 
 Kolosh race and Simpsians on the British side. They speak the Kolosh, Simpsian, and 
 Hydah tongue. They catch considerable mink, bear, beaver, wolverine, and some sea 
 otter. The Ari-e-gas collect large quantities of candle-fish oil or grease. It is put up 
 in tight cedar boxes, from fifty to eighty pounds, and taken north as far as Chilkaht, and 
 brings good prices in furs. 
 
 The Indians from Puget Sound to the northwest catch and dry large quantities of 
 salmon ; the further north the better the salmon. 
 
 In Cook's Inlet the salmon commence running in June and deteriorate in quality as 
 they go south. July and August are the months about the latitude of Sitka, and grad 
 ually later as they go south, so that at Puget Sound in September and October they 
 are the most plentiful, and not as good flavor. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 577 
 
 Take the Indians of the coast of the Territory they are as well supplied with the 
 necessaries of life as the aborigines of any country in the world. The forests are filled 
 with game, the waters with fish, and the heach and rocks with clams and muscles. 
 They are a healthy and vigorous race ; both men and women can back very heavy loads. 
 The men and women are more on an equality than the Indians of Puget Sound and 
 east of the Cascade range. They are steady and good workers for a short time say 
 one month when they like to knock oif for about the same time. The writer thinks 
 that it would be an impossibility to turn the Indian from his vagabond life. , The change 
 to order, with laws and schools, might last for a short time, but the novelty would wear 
 oif, and they would fall back into their old ways. They soon pick up the vices with 
 none of the virtues of the whites. It is the opinion of the writer that it would take a 
 generation to shape them into useful citizens, although a partial success has been ob 
 tained by Mr. Duncan a short distance below Fort Simpson with the Chimpsians, and 
 still they fall off. 
 
 The writer is not at all prejudiced against the Indians. Wherever he has come in 
 contact with them, which has been much in the last sixteen years, he has endeavored 
 to show them the bad policy of their predatory ways ; show them advantages which 
 can accrue by industry, that this may act as a stimulant. 
 Respectfully yours, 
 
 FRANK MAHONY. 
 
 Hon. VINCENT COLYER, 
 
 Special United States Indian Commissioner. 
 
 APPENDIX D. 
 
 Inquiry as to causes of violation of liquor laic. 
 
 SITKA, ALASKA, September 14, 1869. 
 
 DEAR SIR : I find that a large quantity of whisky gets into the hands of the Indians 
 in Alaska. In a conference with several of the chiefs this morning I learn that this 
 was the cause of a riotous disturbance in their village at this place last evening, and 
 these chiefs earnestly requested that its introduction might be stopped. Of course you 
 are aware that the traffic in this article is interdicted by special act of Congress. Will 
 you inform me what in your opinion is the reason that so much of this pernicious poison 
 escapes the vigilance of the revenue officers and finds its way into the Territory ? 
 Very respectfully yours, 
 
 VINCENT COLYER, 
 Special United States Indian Commissioner. 
 WILLIAM KAPUS, Esq., 
 
 Collector of Customs, District of Alaska. 
 
 Eeplij of Collector Kapus. 
 
 CUSTOM-HOUSE, SITKA, ALASKA, September 14, 1869. 
 
 SIR : I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of to-day, requesting 
 me to inform you what, in my opinion, is the reason that so much spirituous liquors seem 
 to escape the vigilance of the revenue officers and finds its way into this Territory. 
 
 In answer, I would state that great inducements are offered to unprincipled men for 
 bringing liquor into this country, as they can purchase from the Indians for one bottle 
 of whisky more furs than five times the value of the whisky in money would procure. 
 The Indian's fondness of intoxicating liquor is well known, and white men, actuated 
 by the desire of making all the money they can, and not caring about the means by 
 which they reach this end, take advantage of this unfortunate taste, visit their villages 
 and fisheries and deal out to them the poison, which has almost in every instance been 
 at the bottom of our Indian difficulties. 
 
 The question arises, how is this liquor brought into this Territory without the knowl 
 edge of the revenue officers? On your trip to this port you will have noticed the pecu 
 liar formation of the coast all the way from Puget Sound it is one continued archipel 
 ago, the island being separated by narrow but mostly deep channels ; small vessels 
 can run through these channels and into the numerous bays making into the coast, and 
 land their cargoes without running hardly any risk of being caught by the revenue 
 officers. These small vessels, schooners, and sloops go to Fort Simpson, Queen Char- 
 lott's Island, and other English trading posts, and smuggle liquor across our line. The 
 cutter Lincoln is now in pursuit of a man by the name of Charles Stevens, who has 
 
 37 I A 
 
578 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 been reported to me as being in our waters with a full cargo of liquor on board of bis 
 vessel But tbis traffic is not confined to wbite men ; Indians, too, visit, in tbeir canoes, 
 our Englisb neigbbors ; they will travel hundreds of miles to procure a supply of this 
 liquid fire. Another mode of introducing it into this district is to smuggle it into this 
 port, and from thence ship it to the different points where it is wanted for purposes of 
 trade with the Indians. Only day before yesterday I discovered such an attempt, and 
 seized ninety-two cans of alcohol, of five gallons each, which had been packed in coal- 
 oil boxes, and was sought to be landed as coal oil. 
 
 What is wanted in this district is a small steam cutter of say from twenty-five to 
 fifty tons burden, of light draught, but great speed ; a vessel that would be able to run 
 through all the channels and into all the bays ; with such a vessel I could intercept all 
 the crafts engaged in smuggling liquor, and follow and arrest all traders violating any 
 of the laws pertaining to, and intended to prevent, this traffic. With the means now at 
 my command I am almost entirely helpless. The cutter Reliance, being a sailing ves 
 sel, is unable to make her way through the islands with any degree of speed or safety, 
 and the steam cutter Lincoln is prevented by her size and draught of water from being- 
 effective in this service. 
 
 Since I entered upon the discharge of the duties of my office, July 1 last, I have made 
 numerous seizures of liquors brought into the Territory in violation of law ; but I am 
 satisfied, had I had a vessel of the above description under my control, my success 
 would have been greater. 
 
 I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 WILLIAM KAPUS, Collector. 
 
 Hon. VINCENT COLYER, 
 
 Special U. S. Indian Commissioner, Sitka, Alaska. 
 
 APPENDIX G. 
 Letter from Captain Selden on evasions of liquor law. 
 
 UNITED STATES REVENUE CUTTER RELIANCE, 
 
 Sitka, Alaska, September 14, 1869. 
 
 DEAR SIR : I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of this date, 
 requesting me to inform you what, in my opinion, is the reason that so much spirituous 
 liquor gets into the hands of the Indians in Alaska, and escapes the vigilance of the 
 revenue officers. 
 
 In answer I must confess that large quantities are brought into the Territory and 
 peddled to the Indians along the whole extent of water-line of this Territory, and I 
 feel assured it will continue so until we are furnished with small steam-vessels for the 
 inland channels. I have every reason to believe that the most of this liquor is brought 
 to the Territory by small vessels, trading all the way from Victoria, Vancouver Island, 
 to some point near this port. What we want to break up this traffic is two steam-tugs 
 or launches of light draught of water, so arranged that they can burn either coal or wood. 
 They would not require a large force to man them, and they would be found very 
 effective in protecting the revenue. 
 
 At the present time we have two cutters in this district : the Lincoln, a steam-ves 
 sel of four hundred tons, kept cruising through the season in Behring's Sea, and to the 
 westward; the Reliance, a sailing-vessel, which cannot cruise inland, owing to the 
 strong tides and intricate channels ; and in fact a sailing-vessel is of no earthly use in 
 these waters. With such force as we have at our command it is unreasonable to ex 
 pect us to prevent illicit traffic. 
 
 I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 J. M. SELDEN, 
 
 Captain United States Revenue Marine. 
 Hon. VINCENT COLYER, 
 
 Special United States Indian Commissioner. 
 
 Letter from Collector Kapus on the sale of liquors ly auction, at Sitka, in Alaska. 
 
 CUSTOMS DISTRICT OF ALASKA, COLLECTOR'S OFFICE, 
 
 Port of Sitka, October 25, 1869. 
 
 SIR : I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 18th of Sep- 
 eniber, 1869, making certain inquiries concerning the recent illegal importation of spir- 
 tuous liquors into this Territory, and in reply, that the alcohol referred to in my letter 
 of the 14th of September last was brought here in the United States steamer Newbern. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 579 
 
 As the value of this liquor exceeded $400 I seized the entire invoice of the shippers 
 Messrs. Kirikead & Louthan, amounting, according to the appraiser's report, to $6,664 50> 
 and have reported the case to the honorable Secretary of the Treasury for his orders. 
 
 Messrs. Kinkead & Louthan have offered, in addition to the forfeiture of their goods, 
 to pay to the government the sum of, $500 as a fine, in full discharge of all liabilities they 
 may have incurred in the premises. I have recommended that this offer be accepted, 
 as it is the full penalty of the law, and I ani satisfied that nothing would be gained by 
 throwing the case into court. 
 
 Colonel Frank N. Wicker, the special agent of the Treasury Department for this dis 
 trict, has joined me in this recommendation. I did not seize the ship, because she was 
 a United States transport, and it would have been a mere farce for the government to 
 have confiscated its own property ; but I did arrest the captain, W. Freeman, jr., and 
 placed him under $10,000 bond to appear before, and deliver himself up to, any court of 
 the United States that may be designated by the Secretary of the Treasury. 
 
 In regard to the probable disposal of this liquor I will quote from my report to the 
 department of September 18, 1869 : " I would also ask, in case the course above recom 
 mended be adopted, that I be authorized to send the alcohol and spirituous liquors to 
 San Francisco and have them sold at public auction. To sell and deliver this class of 
 goods here would virtually be an evasion of the law ; and if they are sold on condi 
 tion that they be shipped out of the Territory, they would not bring near their true 
 value." 
 
 The liquors that were seized by me in the month of August from on board the steam 
 ship Active were sold at this port on the 14th instant, but were delivered to the pur 
 chasers only in limited quantities for the use of the white inhabitants, and, as the law 
 requires, upon the written permits of the general commanding the department. 
 
 Wishing you safe journey to your home in the eastern States, and earnestly request 
 ing that you will use the influence of your position to bring the many disadvantages 
 under which we are laboring in this remote corner of the Union to the attention of the 
 proper authorities, 
 
 I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 WILLIAM KAPUS, 
 
 Collector. 
 
 Hon. VINCENT COLYETI, 
 
 Special United States Indian Commissioner, SitJca, A. T. 
 
 VIOLATION OF LIQUOR LAW. 
 
 UNITED STATES REVENUE STEAMER LINCOLN, 
 
 SitJca, August 30, 1869. 
 
 SIR: Upon leaving the vessel on the 17th of July, 1869, in Bristol Bay, accompanied 
 by Dr. Mclntyre, special agent, I proceeded to the' settlement on the Neuchegac River. 
 We boarded and examined on the way up the schooner General Harney, M. Levi, mas 
 ter. -Captain Levi was then at the settlement. We landed at the village about 5 p. in., 
 and found three persons grossly intoxicated; two Russians (traders) and native, 
 (acting priest.) >We accused Captain Levi of having sold liquor to the natives; he 
 said that he had sold nothing more than nine (9) bottles of ale, at the same time he 
 had a bottle of whisky in his possession, which he said was for his own use. 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 M. A. HEALY, 
 
 Second Lieutenant, United States Revenue Marine. 
 Captain JOHN H. MENRIGUES. 
 
 Official : 
 
 SAMUEL B. McINTYRE, 
 
 First Lieutenant Second Artillery and Bvt. Capt. U. S. A., 
 
 Acting Assistant Adjutant General. 
 
 VIOLATION OF LIQUOR LAW BY COAST TRADERS. 
 
 UNITED STATES REVENUE CUTTER LINCOLN, 
 
 SitJca, Alaska Territory, August 30, 1869. 
 
 SIR : This steamer in cruising during the present summer visited Neuchegack River, 
 Bristol Bay, arriving at that place July 17. 
 It became a necessity to obtain a pilot for the navigation of Bristol Bay and Neuch- 
 
580 EEPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 gack River, and a boat was accordingly dispatched under an officer to obtain one the 
 vessel being at anchor in bay, and not arriving at anchorage in Neuehgack River until 
 morning. Second Lieutenant M. A. Healy was the officer in charge of boat, Special 
 Agent Dr. H. H. Mclntyre accompanying him. They went up to trading post, and 
 remained until arrival of steamer, coming on board the following day. I am informed 
 by these parties that three persons were found drunk on shore, two being Russians, 
 the third a native, (officiating priest.) This liquor I am satisfied was furnished by the 
 schooner General Harney, Marquis Levi, master, lying at anchorage iu the river. I 
 have every reason to think Captain Levi traded with these people while in this condi 
 tion. It is quite certain that no liquor was in the place until the arrival of the General 
 Harney, and Captain Levi has admitted that the persons named did get drunk on his 
 vessel, saying, however, it was by accident, he inviting them on board as guests, and 
 they getting drunk at his table. 
 
 I respectfully submit the above for your consideration and action. 
 I am, sir, very respectfully, yours, 
 
 JOHN A. HENRIQUES, 
 Captain United States Revenue Marine. 
 Major General J. C. DAVIS, 
 
 Commanding Department of Alaska. 
 
 Official : 
 
 SAMUEL B. McINTYRE, 
 
 First Lieutenant Second Artillery and Bvt. Capt. U. 8. A., 
 
 Acting Assistant Adjutant General. 
 
 VIOLATION OF THE LIQUOK LAW BY THE AMERICAN-RUSSIAN ICE COMPANY'S SHIPS. 
 
 UNALASKA, August 19, 1869. 
 
 In the month of May the ship Casarowhitz landed at Bilkofsky, in Alaska Territory. 
 The day after its arrival there were brought ashore two small kegs of five gallons 
 whisky ; the inhabitants were assembled and were made drunk. Then Captain Sand 
 man snowed them a paper with a large seal affixed, and told the natives that it was a 
 permit from General Davis to land the whisky, and furthermore told them that they 
 were not to trade with any company but his. A day or two after that about forty 
 gallons of whisky and eight casks of California brand were landed from the same ship 
 Casarowhitz ; during the night-time there was a ball and the natives again had a drunk. 
 The day before its departure the ship landed about forty gallons more of whisky. I 
 am certain that he told those Aleutes that for each sea otter brought to the store of that 
 company a bottle of brandy would be given. He bought for a bottle of brandy a 
 small sea otter from a certain Kandrat of Kazutin. Every feast day he gives the 
 Taye (chief) a bottle of brandy, as also to others, and one may see any day drunken 
 Aleutes about the store. 
 
 In May, 1868, the brig Olga came to Bilkofsky, and got the Aleutes drunk. The 
 Taye was told that the Russian company would punish him if he traded with any 
 other concern, (than his,) and the natives believe that they will be punished. 
 
 CARL OSCHE. 
 
 True translation of original : 
 
 S. C. KELLOGG, 
 Brevet Lieutenant Colonel U. S. A., Aide-de-Camp. 
 
 HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF ALASKA, 
 
 SitJca, Alaska, September 17, 1869. 
 
 A true copy : 
 
 SAMUEL B. McINTIRE, 
 First Lieutenant Second Artillery and Brevet Captain U. S. A., A. A. A. G. 
 
 APPENDIX E. 
 Medical Director Bailey on intemperance and debauchery. 
 
 SITKA, ALASKA TERRITORY, October 25, 1869. 
 
 MY DEAR SIR : I inclose for your information the report of Acting Assistant Surgeon 
 John A. Tonner, United States Army, in medical charge of the Indians iu this vicinity, 
 in conformity to instructions given him by me. A copy of the same is inclosed. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 581 
 
 This report is instructive and contains important suggestions which, if carried out, 
 would go far towards improving their condition. 
 
 I am satisfied that little or nothing can be done until they are placed under better 
 and more favorable influences. A greater mistake could not have been committed than 
 stationing troops in their midst. They mutually debauch each other, and sink into that 
 degree of degradation in which it is impossible to reach each other through moral or 
 religious influences. 
 
 Whisky has been sold in the streets by government officials at public auctions, and 
 examples of drunkenness are set before them almost daily, so that in fact the principal 
 teaching they at present are receiving is that drunkenness and debauchery are held by 
 us, not as criminal and unbecoming a Christian people, but as indications of our 
 advanced and superior civilization. 
 
 These Indians $re a civil and well-behaved people ; they do not want bayonets to 
 keep them in subjection, but they do want honest, faithful, and Christian workers 
 among them ; those that will care for them, teach and instruct them in useful arts, and 
 that they are responsible beings. I look upon the different military posts in this 
 department as disastrous and destructive to their well-being ; they are not, and can 
 never be, of the least possible use; they are only so many whisky fonts from whence it- 
 is spread over the country. If we ever have trouble with them and become involved 
 in war, it will be found to arise from these causes. From the nature and character of 
 the country, posts never can render the least influence afford protection against contra 
 band trade ; this can only be done by armed vessels, in command of choice men. To 
 go into detail on all points would require pages ; you have seen enough to satisfy your 
 self; and in giving you the inclosed report I only want to add my testimony against 
 what I conceive to be a most grievous error in the management of the Indian affairs 
 in this Territory. 
 
 When you go home send us honest, faithful, Christian workers; not place-seekers, but 
 those who want to do good work for Christ's sake and kingdom. Send men and women, 
 for both are wanted. 
 
 When you can do away with the evils spoken of, and which are so evident, and 
 adopt this latter course, then there will be hope, and not until then. 
 Sincerely your friend. 
 
 E. J. BAILEY, 
 Surgeon U. S. A., Medical Director Department of Alaska. 
 
 Hon. VINCENT COLYER. 
 
 ORDERS ESTABLISHING HOSPITAL AND MEDICAL ATTENDANCE. 
 
 HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF ALASKA, 
 
 MEDICAL DIRECTOR 's OFFICE, 
 SitJca, Alaska Territory, September 15, 1869. 
 
 DOCTOR : In taking medical charge of the Indians, in accordance with the instructions 
 given you, you will ascertain as near as possible and report to this office the number 
 of males, females, and children ; their present sanitary condition ; whether any efforts 
 have been made or are being made to improve it ; what has been the nature of the 
 medical assistance they have received heretofore ; nature and character of disease 
 among them, in tabular statements, giving percentage, character of their clothing 
 and food, their means of procuring it, to what extent liquor has been and still is being 
 introduced among them ; kind and condition of the houses they occupy. You will 
 report what provisions and arrangements you have made to carry out your instructions. 
 On every Tuesday you will forward to this office a report of the previous week, 
 giving the number treated, (males, females and children,) with disease, and where treated. 
 You will also report upon all points of interest touching their condition, with such sug 
 gestions as you may think proper and practicable that will advance their improve 
 ment. 
 
 As you have been chosen for this duty it is hoped you will appreciate its importance, 
 and enter upon it with your usual energy, and in a true Christian spirit. 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 E. J. BAILEY, 
 Brevet Lieutenant Colonel and Surgeon U. S. A., 
 
 Medical Director Department of Alaska. 
 
 Dr. Tonnei j s report on sanitary condition of the Sitka Indians and their village. 
 
 SITKA, ALASKA TERRITORY, October 20, 1869. 
 
 SIR : In compliance with your instructions of September 15, I have the honor to 
 make the following report : 
 After waiting until now the return of the Indians engaged in fishing I have taken 
 
582 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 the number of those now here, and find three hundred and sixty-five men, two hundred 
 and ninety-six women, and two hundred and sixty children, making a total of nine 
 hundred and twenty-one now in village, while they state there are three hundred and 
 thirty still absent fishing. These all live in forty-four houses, built of plank set upright 
 and roofed with bark. The floors are planked, except a bare place in the center where 
 the fire is built, the smoke passing through an opening in the roof. The buildings 
 average forty feet in width and sixty in depth and twenty in height to 'the ridge. 
 Small sleeping apartments line the sides, and measure generally, six by eight feet. 
 Some have bedsteads and feather beds ; a blanket serves the majority. Cleanliness and 
 neatness is generally wanting in their abodes, although there are a few who in both 
 respects are excellent models for the rest, and also the majority of the Russians now 
 here, who live much worse than these Indians. The latter claim as an excuse for their 
 want of cleanliness, the worse condition of the Russians and the want of interest shown 
 in them previous to our arrival and possession of the couutry. The chief has displayed 
 a very commendable spirit in improvement of his own house and person, and urging 
 uponliis tribe to do likewise ; but more he was unable to do, as his authority is merely 
 flomiual. A very filthy practice prevails among them of blacking their faces simply to 
 conceal other traces and protect from the effects of the sun. I have been able to lessen 
 the practice by requiring clean faces on all those prescribed for. 
 
 Medical attendance has been furnished them by the post surgeon ever since the arrival 
 of our troops here, but without compensation, while the labor at times was greater 
 than that required by the troops, and at all times more trying. The diseases most 
 common among them are syphilis, rheumatism, and conjunctivitis. The first is much 
 aggravated and diffused by unrestrained intercourse with the troops, and affects both 
 sexes equally. Its constitutional form is more rare than among the troops, partially 
 owing to the implicit obedience to instructions given them for cure. 
 
 Rheumatism is confined to those past middle age, who, too old for active exercise, 
 suffer from the natural effects of this climate upon those so situated. 
 
 Conjunctivitis and corneitis are very common, owing to the constant atmosphere 
 of smoke in their houses. Those able to come are prescribed for daily at nine a. m. 
 at the post hospital dispensary ; those unable, at their houses. For the latter a hospital 
 is necessary in order to treat them properly ; but there being no provision for feeding 
 or nursing'such, I am unable to take them in. There are two rooms at the post hos 
 pital which by a little labor could be soon arranged comfortably for them ; then the 
 authority to issue a ration to each patient, and provisions made for the payment of a 
 nurse, their needs in that direction \vould be supplied. 
 
 A blanket supplies the unchanging article of dress, although the females now gene 
 rally wear calico, and the men drawers and shirts, besides others in our dress when 
 procurable. Most of them have money from the sale of wood and basket work, besides 
 supplying the market with venison, fish, and berries, for which they obtain twice as 
 much as when the Russians held the country. Their food consists chiefly of smoked 
 venison, salmon, with candle fish oil, and salmon berries ; they are now acquiring a 
 ta^te for rice, beans, and biscuit and molasses. 
 
 It is impossible to prevent their obtaining liquor ; although its sale to them is prohib 
 ited here, still the low Russians obtain it without hindrance, and retail to them by the 
 drink ; yet I have seen very little drinking among them, and no disturbance caused 
 by it. 
 
 Their moral condition is low, and rendered worse by the proximity of the whites, as 
 evidenced by the superiority of the tribes in other parts of the Territory whose rela 
 tions have been less intimate with us. This is at the lowest ebb here, being near the 
 largest town. Some efforts were made by the Russians for their improvement, by 
 building a church and school-house. They have services in the former monthly, but 
 the latter is closed since our occupancy, as no provision or teacher was furnished for 
 its maintenance. It is a good building, and only wanting a competent soul-loving 
 teacher to fill it at once with as bright, apt children as can be found anywhere. At 
 least one hundred and fifty are of the proper age, and with these only can we hope to 
 improve their condition ; those who have attained maturity being too fixed in their 
 habits and vices to make much impression, (or improvement,) while the other material 
 is plastic, and being very imitative are adopting our evil courses, without a knowledge 
 of our good ones. An eminent, devoted chaplain or missionary at this place, who will 
 take an interest in these beings as immortal souls, with one or two equally devoted 
 teachers, are needed ; the latter for these neglected ones, the former for all of us. 
 
 Trusting that God will bless your efforts for good in this community, I remain, very 
 respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 J. A. TONNE R, 
 Acting Assistant Surgeon United States Army, Post Surgecm. 
 
 Brevet Lieutenant Colonel E. J. BAILEY, U. S. A., 
 
 Medical Director Department of Alaska. 
 
EEPOET OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 583 
 
 APPENDIX F. 
 Letter from O.B. Carlton. 
 FISHERIES OF SOUTHEASTERN ALASKA. 
 
 UNITED STATES QUARTERMASTERS' STEAMER NEWBERN, 
 
 November 15, 1869. 
 
 DEAR SIR : I will reply to your inquiries concerning the fisheries of Alaska Territory 
 in the order in which you presented them. 
 
 KINDS OF FISH. 
 
 The most of my experience in the fisheries of Alaska have been in the vicinity of 
 Sitka, and as far as this enables me to judge, and from what I hear, salmon are the 
 most numerous. Halibut are common here, large nutnbers are taken by the Indians 
 with their rude apparatus. With more improved implements the halibut could be 
 taken in sufficient quantities to make the pickling of the napes and fins very profitable. 
 Herring of the choicest quality are found throughout the Territory ; in the month of 
 April can be caught by the hundreds of barrels with the usual herring nets. I also 
 think mackerel will be caught in these waters by following the same course pursued 
 on the Atlantic coast. 
 
 I, with others, in 1857 proceeded to Cape St. Lucas, Lower California, where, from 
 a passing school, we caught some ten barrels ; thence to South Barbara shores, where 
 we caught five hundred barrels ; thence to St. Craps Island, two hundred barrels, and 
 from thence north to Point Reys, fifty barrels, when, from a combination of circum 
 stances, the enterprise was abandoned. I have not resumed it since, being otherwise 
 employed. 
 
 But from the fact that they are found in the south, as also the case on the Atlantic 
 coast, and I have seen in Alaska waters such other fish as usually school with them, I 
 am confident they may be found here. 
 
 BY WHOM TAKEN. 
 
 Last season I employed American labor, but found it to be expensive both in trans 
 portation and wages to make it pay. This year I employed Russians mostly, and find 
 the expense about one-half of last season, but find them too indolent to employ to ad 
 vantage. Next season I shall employ Indians altogether, except coopering, and I have 
 no doubt but they can also be taught that trade. I found them willing and industrious, 
 and kind when properly treated. They will work for less pay than Americans or 
 Russians. 
 
 ARTICLES REQUIRED. 
 
 The usual outfit, such as barrels, salt, nets, and cans for curing them fresh ; these 
 have been taken from San Francisco, but the barrels may be made on the fishing-ground, 
 as there is plenty of lumber for that purpose. 
 
 THE BEST MARKETS 
 
 Are San Francisco, Sandwich Islands, and New York. The price of salmon (with 
 cod, halibut, and mackerel have had nothing to do of late) ranges from five dollars to 
 ten dollars a barrel, owing to quality and quantity in market at time of sale. I have 
 had nothing to do with canning, but salmon preserved in this way are a great delicacy 
 and an important article of commerce. Salmon are taken near Sitka in June, July, 
 and August, and some few in September. 
 Very respectfully, 
 
 O. B. CARLTON, 
 
 Superintendent of Company's Fisheries, 
 
 VINCENT COLYER, Esq., 
 
 Special United States Indian Commissioner. 
 
 THE FISHERIES OF ALASKA. 
 [From the Sitka Times.] 
 
 Among the many industries natural to the coast of Alaska none is more prolific of 
 wealth to the enterprising merchant of the Pacific or eastern slope than the fisheries 
 the cod, halibut, salmon, and herring, which abound in immense quantities from Ton 
 gas in the south, to Behring Strait in the west. It was one of the strong reasons set 
 
584 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 forth for the purchase by Mr. Sunmer in his magnificent speech "on the cession of 
 Alaska." Notwithstanding the fabulous statements made by him in relation to the 
 fisheries, statements which many affected at least to disbelieve, the truth of all has 
 been proven, and testimony is ample, derived since the transfer, and by our own peo 
 ple traders, who have engaged in the fur seal and other fur interests. 
 
 We who live at Sitka, and thence down by way of the Stikine, Cassan, and Tongas, 
 know the prolificness of the salmon fisheries, and its ultimate importance and value. 
 
 The American-Russian Commercial Company, one of the few associations of men 
 who have shown enterprise, have an extensive establishment, Ozersky employing some 
 twenty men in constant service from March to October. Last season, owing to bad 
 nets and nets unsuitable for the catch, they only put up eight hundred barrels of 
 salmon. This year, although the season is not ended, they have put up and prepared 
 for the Atlantic market about one thousand barrels of salmon. Baronovitch, at Cassan, 
 last year, with the aid of only four men, put up, in splendid order, seven hundred bar 
 rels of salmon, and had to cease the catch ere the season was half over, he having no 
 more barrels to fill. On the 7th of August, last year, the Saginaw, Captain Mitchell, 
 called at this place. Baronovitch had ceased work some three weeks before, but at 
 Mitchell's request he took his two boats and seines to catch a supply for the ship, and 
 in fifteen minutes returned with them loaded to the guards with beautiful salmon. 
 
 He felt confident that had his barrels not failed he could have packed seven hundred 
 more. 
 
 A new method of putting up salmon has recently been experimented on by the Co 
 lumbia River fishermen, and this year we understand they are putting up great quan 
 tities of them in cans, the same as oysters, lobsters, &c. 
 
 This course might be pursued here with great advantage, and the facilities for its 
 successful prosecution are abundant. We hope some of our citizens will engage in ife 
 another season. Fish are plenty, labor is abundant and cheap, transportation below is 
 low, and the price of fish remunerative. It will help the prosperity of the town, give 
 work to our needy Russian population, and will give still more character to the worth 
 of the Territory. 
 
 There are besides a hundred other fisheries of salmon, where, added to splendid loca 
 tions for buildings, are good anchorages for vessels. Hundreds of fresh-water rivers 
 come leaping down the mountains into the sea, and into these in the summer the salmon 
 run, and so thickly, that often they blacken the water. Let us make known these facts 
 to the world, for once known and believed, capital will surely seek an investment and 
 acquire in this honest pursuit the reward it merits. 
 
 Again, the halibut fishing is immense. Westward from Sitka to Kadiak, Kenai, and 
 even to the Peninsula of Alaska, these fish abound, and they are immense. Every per 
 son who comes down from the coast speaks of this fishing. As yet there are none that 
 we know of engaged in this pursuit, but if there be a way of preserving these fish for 
 the San Francisco market, an enterprise of that kind must prove a success. The ex 
 perience of our own people prove that, with ordinary precaution, all work of drying or 
 pickling can be done as well on the adjacent islands as further below. 
 
 But the cod fisheries of Alaska are of the most moment and importance to us as a peo 
 ple and a nation. 
 
 It is a fact well known that for years the cod fisheries of the Atlantic coast have 
 been failing, until now that branch of industry is merely nominal. More than one- 
 half of the great fleet of vessels formerly engaged in it are now lying idle in the harbors 
 of Boston, Salem, Lynn, Newburyport, and Marblehead, or they have gone into the busi 
 ness of carriers. There is to-day a hardy population of fishermen who are cast adrift 
 upon the world, earning a livelihood in ways illy suited to them, and all because 
 Othello's occupation is gone. The vessels have proved, and are proving, a ruinous in 
 vestment to their owners, not earning enough to pay a reasonable interest on their 
 cost. Again, this industry has been invaluable to Massachusetts. It was one of her 
 great sources of wealth, and it built up nearly all her seaport towns. Lately the 
 question of procuring some treaty stipulations with Great Britain has been urgently 
 pressed by those immediately interested whereby the United States can have the right 
 of fishing for cod on the coast of Labrador, and it is confidently expected by many that 
 this right will be soon secured. 
 
 But why obligate ourselves to a foreign nation to secure that which we already have 
 at home ? As fine cod fishing banks as exist in the known world lie all along the coast 
 of Alaska, from the Peninsula of Unalaska through Norton's and Kotzebue's sounds 
 into Behring Strait. One great difficulty which always existed on the Newfound 
 land banks is the great depth of water, which ranges from seventy to ninety fathoms. 
 The banks along our coast only average from thirty to fifty fathoms. The fish, too, are 
 of equally as fine a quality, and of good size. 
 
 There are, we believe, this season some or twelve vessels, formerly Cape Ann fisher 
 men, which have been brought around the Horn, engaged in the cod fisheries along 
 the coast of Alaska. We know they will do well. Recently one little vessel has ar 
 rived at Port Townsend from the East. There is no reason why the idle fleets on the 
 
EEPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 585 
 
 eastern coast cannot be profitably employed on this coast. They are generally calcu 
 lated for a freight capacity of one hundred to two hundred tons, and can easily load 
 with freight at Boston or New York for San Francisco, and thus earn enough to pay 
 running expenses ; starting in the summer or early autumn they can reach San Fran 
 cisco' iri season to procure an outfit, and proceed on their cruise by March or April. It 
 is only changing the base of operation. Instead of the East supplying the West, it 
 will be vice versa. The price of fish shipped by steamers will be but nominally increased, 
 while we shall, as a people, have the satisfaction of being independent of all foreign 
 powers for a supply of one of the great staples of food. 
 
 We trust that the eastern fishermen will make up to the importance of the industry 
 and exhibit that energy which has always characterized New England, by sending out 
 to Alaska a fleet of vessels to engage in this certainly lucrative business. The market 
 is the world. We are on the highway of the Eastern and Western hemispheres. Not 
 only is the United States to be supplied, but China and Japan, with their millions of 
 people, stand ready to buy. 
 
 All hail, then, to the speedy inception of this enterprise. Then will not only Alaska 
 prosper, and the country in general be benefited, but we shall feel proud that we are 
 so opulent in our own resources of strength, and have oil the Pacific coast, as well as 
 on the Atlantic, a brave set of inen ready to man our naval fleets in case hereafter 
 there be another insurrection or a foreign war. 
 
 APPENDIX H. 
 
 ACT OF CONGRESS REGULATING THE INTRODUCTION OF LIQUOR, FIRE-ARMS, &., INTO 
 
 ALASKA. 
 
 The law governing the sale of spirituous liquors is as follows : 
 
 " SEC. 4. And be it further enacted, That the President shall have power to restrict and 
 regulate or to prohibit the importation and use of fire-arms, ammunition, and distilled 
 spirits into and within the said Territory. And the exportation of the same from any 
 other port or place in the United States when destined to any port or place in said 
 Territory, and all such arms, ammunition, and distilled spirits exported, or attempted 
 to be exported, from any port or place in the United States and destined for such Ter 
 ritory, in violation of any regulations that may be prescribed under this section ; and 
 all such arms, ammunition, and distilled spirits landed or attempted to be landed or 
 used at any port or place in said Territory, in violation of said regulation, shall be for 
 feited ; and if the value of the same shall exceed four hundred dollars the vessel upon 
 which the same shall be found, or from which they shall have been landed, together 
 with her tackle, apparel, and furniture, and cargo, shall be forfeited; and any such 
 person willfully violating such regulation shall, on conviction, be fined in any sum not 
 exceeding five hundred dollars, or imprisoned not more than six months. And bonds 
 may be required for a faithful observance of such regulations from the master or own 
 ers of any vessel departing from any port in the United States having on board fire 
 arms, ammunition, or distilled spirits, when such vessel is destined to any place in 
 said Territory, or if not so destined, when there shall be reasonable ground of suspicion 
 that such articles are intended to be landed herein in violation of law ; and similar 
 bonds may be required on the landing of any such articles in the said Territory from 
 the person to whom the same may be consigned." 
 
 APPENDIX HI. 
 
 * 
 
 LIQUOR AT GOVERNMENT POSTS. 
 
 A writer in the Washington Morning Chronicle, of February 6, says : 
 "Fifteen miles from Simpson is the federal Fort Tongas, situated on Portland Inlet, 
 the dividing water between British America and our own Territory, the latter consti 
 tuting the most southern portion of Alaska. At Tongas are stationed a company of 
 troops, who have already had several quarrels with the Indians. The Hudson's Bay 
 Company have never had a soldier at one of their posts, and up to a very late date 
 have had no trouble with the Indians. Mr. Cunningham says he has had considerable 
 difficulty with some of the Indians since the erection of Fort Tongas, on account of their 
 procuring liquor from the United States troops. From Fort Tongas to Fort Wrangel 
 it is seventy miles. Wrangel is also garrisoned by a company of troops, who have had 
 serious difficulties with the Indians upon several occasions. It is situated at the mouth 
 of the Stikine River." 
 
586 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 APPENDIX I. 
 
 Summary of winds and iveather from January 1, 1868, to August 31, 1869, at Sitka, Alaska 
 
 Territory. 
 
 Months. 
 
 "Warmest days. 
 
 Coldest days. 
 
 Amount of 
 rain. 
 
 Number days 
 cloudy. 
 
 Number days 
 fair. ' 
 
 Number days 
 rain. 
 
 Number days 
 snow. 
 
 1868. 
 January 
 
 36 
 50 
 45 
 51 
 
 58 
 60 
 62 
 58 
 57 
 58 
 52 
 48 
 
 47 
 43 
 48 
 48 
 58 
 56 
 57 
 56 
 
 46 
 51 
 53 
 60 
 64 
 71 
 68 
 61 
 60 
 59 
 52 
 53 
 
 41 
 
 47 
 53 
 56 
 70 
 69 
 69 
 68 
 
 39 
 45 
 49 
 44 
 
 48 
 59 
 57 
 61 
 60 
 59 
 48 
 47 
 
 51 
 
 59 
 45 
 51 
 54 
 55 
 61 
 57 
 
 14 
 
 11 
 32 
 32 
 35 
 50 
 52 
 52 
 38 
 38 
 25 
 20 
 
 29 
 24 
 29 
 39 
 41 
 47 
 48 
 52 
 
 30 
 28 
 35 
 49 
 41 
 54 
 54 
 51 
 57 
 42 
 31 
 34 
 
 32 
 40 
 37 
 38 
 49 
 50 
 53 
 57 
 
 17 
 12 
 
 32 
 36 
 36 
 49 
 50 
 52 
 46 
 36 
 26 
 22 
 
 37 
 
 25 
 41 
 36 
 40 
 45 
 49 
 50 
 
 7.00 
 4.35 
 5.72 
 1.37 
 7.55 
 1.93 
 4.20 
 4.01 
 6.81 
 7.27 
 9.38 
 6.69 
 
 10.14 
 14. 80 
 6.30 
 8.99 
 6.87 
 4.99 
 3.20 
 3.84 
 
 12.33 
 20.00 
 26. 33 
 21.33 
 22. 00 
 18.33 
 28.00 
 24.33 
 20.00 
 27.66 
 25.00 
 20.00 
 
 18.66 
 9.00 
 4.66 
 8.66 
 9.00 
 11. 66 
 3.00 
 6.66 
 10.00 
 3.33 
 5.00 
 11.00 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 5 
 3 
 12 
 4 
 10 
 9 
 11 
 14 
 16 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 February 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 May.. 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 
 September 
 
 October 
 
 November 
 
 December 
 
 \ 
 1869. 
 January 
 
 275. 31 
 
 100. 63 
 
 109 
 
 7 
 
 28.66 
 24.33 
 21.66 
 24.33 
 25.66 
 24.33 
 24.66 
 22.33 
 
 2.33 
 3.66 
 9.33 
 5.66 
 5.33 
 5.66 
 6. 33 
 8.66 
 
 10 
 13 
 6 
 
 8 
 6 
 7 
 5 
 6 
 
 1 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 [February 
 
 March 
 
 April . . 
 
 May . . . 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 Au "list 
 
 
 APPENDIX L. 
 General Davis* s account of tlie Kalce war. 
 
 The following is General Davis's account of the same affair. He says in his report 
 of the 5th of January last : 
 
 " The Indians within the last few days have exhibited some signs of growing trou 
 ble, but I think I have succeeded in checkmating them in their designs, at least for 
 the present. The principal chief of the Chilkahts has been here for some weeks with a 
 party on a trading visit. He is a very haughty and imperious man, and has been ac 
 customed to having things his own way heretofore, wherever he went, both among 
 the whites and Indians. This is his second visit here, during both of which he has 
 been treated with kindness and consideration ; but this kind of treatment he seems to 
 have evidently misconstrued into fear or timidity on our part, and became more imper 
 tinent from day; to day, until New Year's day, when he and a minor chief undertook to 
 disarm the sentinel at the main entrance into the Indian village. I ordered the guard, 
 under an officer, to follow him into the village and arrest him and his party. He re 
 sisted by opening a fire upon the guard. The guard returned it, but finding the In 
 dians too strong for them retreated back into the garrison. As the chief himself was 
 reported probably killed in the melee, and the whole tribe of Sitkas, among whom he 
 was staying, was thrown |into a great state of excitement, I thought it prudent to 
 order a strong guard out for the night,' and to take no, further action until morning, as 
 the night was very dark, thus giving them time to reflect. 
 
 " I called the principal Sitka chiefs together and they disclaimed any participation 
 in the affair, and said they did not desire to fight either the troops or tlie'Chilkahts, and 
 that they had already hoisted white flags over their cabins. I then demanded the sur 
 render of the Chilkaht chief, who, after considerable delay and some show of fight on 
 the part of about fifty of his warriors, came in and gave himself up. A few minutes' 
 talk with him sufficed to convince me that he was bent on war, and I would have had 
 to fight but for the Sitka's refusing tojoin in his design. I confined him and his princi 
 pal confederates in the guard-house, where he still remains. Cholckeka is known as 
 the most powerful and vindictive chief on this coast. Knowing his history and power, 
 I have watched and treated him accordingly. No one tribe of the Indians in Alaska 
 can endanger the safety of the troops or the citizens here ; united, of course it would be 
 different, but we must look out and prevent, if possible, such a union of tribes. There 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 587 
 
 were two Indians killed in this affair ; one soldier was very severely wounded, but will 
 recover. The steamer Saginaw arrived in due time here and rendered all the assistance 
 which I desired. The revenue cutter Reliance (which is commanded by Captain Heu- 
 riques) was lying out in the harbor at the time ; he and his officers were very prompt 
 and efficient in giving assistance. 
 
 "Thinking the general commanding would like to learn all the particulars of this 
 our first .difficulty with the Indians in this department, I have gone more into details 
 than would otherwise seem necessary. 
 
 "JEFF. C. DAVIS, Commander." 
 
 APPENDIX M. 
 Letter from William S. Dodge, ex-mayor of Sitka, on affairs in Alaska generally. 
 
 ON BOAKD UNITED STATES STEAMER NEWBERN, 
 
 November 10, 1869. 
 
 SIR: Your communication of the 1st ultimo, making certain inquiries of me, was duly 
 received, and I will now answer them in detail, so far as I am able, either from per 
 sonal knowledge or from information deemed by me reliable, received from others. 
 
 1. " What is the number of Indians in Alaska, as far I know ?" 
 
 Personally, I know nothing as to number with certainty. Prince D. Metrooskoff in 
 formed me, when I first came to Alaska, that their records, compiled from time to time, 
 place the Indian population proper at about fifteen thousand, covering the territory 
 from Portland Canal on the south to Mt. St. Elias on the north, and embracing all the 
 Indians on the islands and the coast of the main land, as well as the upper tribes of the 
 Stachines, Chilkaht, and Tarken within the borders of Alaska. From Mt. St. Elias west 
 ward along the coast to Kollzertra and Norton Sound, and thence up to the Polar Ocean. 
 The Russian American Company consider the people as Esquimaux, with, of course, 
 various tribal differences. These people are considered very numerous, being estimated, 
 upon statistics gathered as a basis, at from fifty to sixty thousand. 
 
 The islanders are considered as a distinct race of people, purely Mongolian in origin, 
 and are denominated Aleutians. These people, including the Creole element, have been 
 determined by actual census to be between seven and eight thousand. All these people 
 were considered by the Russian government as civilized, they being for the greater part 
 members of the Greek church, living like civilized people, and all, or nearly all, being 
 able to read and write the Russian language. 
 
 Of this latter statement I have the truth, personally having seen more than two 
 hundred of them in my official capacity write, and with a remarkable degree of nicety 
 in penmanship. These distinctions are not recognized by the military authorities in 
 the department of Alaska without distinction. I do not coincide with this opinion, and 
 deem it unjust as well as unsound. 
 
 As to the " tribal names," your second inquiry, I know very few, and will not trouble 
 you with a repetition of names which I know you now possess. 
 
 3. Their general character ? 
 
 I can speak generally from actual observation ; and, in brief, none of the tribes in 
 that section of the country, which I consider Indian, are at all to be compared with 
 any of the tribes inhabiting the interior of our country, or even with those bordering 
 the great lakes. One peculiar characteristic of the Alaska tribes, such as the Hydahs, 
 Stikines, Sticks, Kakes, Kootznov, and Sitkas, is their individual intelligent inde 
 pendence. It is true they live to a great extent on fish and game, but these are to their 
 taste, the crops of grain and corn, &c., to the former. For half a century educated into 
 traders by the Russian American and Hudson's Bay Companies, as well as by small 
 traders, who trade contraband, they have become keen, sharp-witted, and drive as hard 
 and close a bargain as their white brothers, and since the federal occupation of the 
 country this feet is more apparent. 
 
 They are of a very superior intelligence, and have rapidly acquired many of the 
 American ways of living and working. Their houses are universally clustered into 
 villages very thoroughly and neatly built, and far more substantial and pretentious 
 than the log-houses usually constructed by our manly backwoodsmen. The Coast 
 Indians do not themselves, and out of their own local resources, furnish much commer 
 cially. The Sitkas supply Sitka with its game, beets, and radishes. They, as well as 
 the other coast tribes, kill a goodly number of the hair-seal, selling to the white traders 
 the peltries and the oil which they extract from them. But as a rule they stand as the 
 immediate agents between the white traders and the interior Indians, and in this 
 exhibit a jealousy worthy the Jews. Many purchase from the whites hard bread, rice, 
 shoes, blankets, &c., and take these together with salmon, which they cure themselves, 
 up the various rivers to the interior tribes, with whom they in turn trade for mink, 
 
588 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 martin, lynx, fox, bear, and other skins. Returning to the whites, these Indians again 
 exchange for articles of traffic. 
 
 They never allow the upper country Indians to come to the white settlements to trade 
 with the Chilkahts and Tarkens; death would follow the attempt. Hence is evinced a 
 monopoly powerful and extensive in character. Nor will the Coast Indians permit any 
 white man to pass to the upper country to trade the penalty they threaten is the same. 
 All trade must be made with and through them. 
 
 As to the next inquiry, "What means have been undertaken, if any, by the military 
 or other United States authority for their improvement ?" I need say but little. No sys 
 tem has as yet been adopted by any of the United States authorities tending to the 
 improvement of the Indian tribes. 
 
 General J. C. Davis has frequently, in intercourse with the Indians, explained to the 
 chiefs the American ideas of justice and right, and how practically they are carried 
 out, calling their attention to the fact that the good would be protected, and the wrong 
 doer punished, exemplifying the teaching by illustrating it in this way : When a soldier 
 does wrong they would know it, as he was worked on the roads and guarded by another 
 soldier with a bayonet on his gun. If a Russian did wrong they would see he was put 
 in prison. If an Indian did wrong he would be punished the same. 
 
 The Indians for a time observed this, and often said the " Boston man" was just, for 
 everybody fared alike. 
 
 One day a soldier, Russian, and Indian, all in prison together ; no favor shown ; 
 white man treated same as Indian. This teaching, faithfully carried out, could not 
 but have had a beneficial effect, and for a time it did. But, unfortunately, an event 
 occurred on last New Year's day which somewhat shook their faith. The military au 
 thorities, following in the footsteps of the Russian American Company, have from time 
 to time continued to instill into their minds a love for labor and general usefulness, 
 and have encouraged them in it by giving them contracts for wood, &c. 
 
 General Davis did much at one time to induce the Sitkas to abandon their custom 
 of killing a slave to supply the wants of a departed chief, an occasion of that kind 
 having arisen. I believe his influence was sufficient to save the victim, although it 
 was done by freeing the condemned slave and bringing him into the town. We have 
 always understood that no other was killed in his stead. 
 
 Beyond this, and a few other similar examples and counsels, nothing has been done 
 to ameliorate or better their condition up to the present time. The example set by 
 the navy has never been favorable, but generally unfavorable ; especially during the 
 cruise of the Sagiuaw, under a commander now dead, positively demoralizing. 
 
 The custom authorities never exercised any influence, either for good or bad. 
 
 To your last and most important question : " What causes are operating at the pres 
 ent time, or may have been used in the past, to demoralize them I" much may be said. 
 
 As a citizen of Alaska, I feel a delicacy in writing upon this subject, inasmuch as it 
 compels me to tread upon unwelcome ground, and may be characterized as the prompt 
 ings of hatred, jealousy, and strife. However, as in this question lies the weal or woe, 
 not only of the Indian, but the white race within this Territory, I shall express clearly, 
 impartially, and frankly my views of the whole subject in all its bearings as they have 
 been presented to me by observation and reflection. And here I am compelled to say 
 that the conduct of certain military and naval officers and soldiers has been bad and 
 demoralizing in the extreme ; not only contaminating the Indians, but in fact demor 
 alizing and making the inhabitants of Sitka what Dante characterized Italy: "A 
 grand house of ill-fame." I speak only of things as seen and felt at Sitka. 
 
 First. The demoralizing influence originated in the fact that the garrison was loca 
 ted in the heart of the town. 
 
 Secondly. The great mass of the soldiers were either desperate or very immoral men. 
 
 Thirdly! Some of the officers did not carry out military discipline in that just way 
 which the regulations contemplate. They gave too great license to bad men ; and the 
 deepest evil to all, and out of which other great evils resulted, was an indiscriminate 
 pass system at night. Many has been the night when soldiers have taken possession 
 of a Russian house, and frightened and browbeaten the women into compliance with 
 their lustful passions. 
 
 Many is the night I have been called upon after midnight, by men and women, Rus 
 sian and Aleutian, in their night-clothes, to protect them against the malice of the 
 soldiers. In instances where the guilty party could be recognized they have been 
 punished ; but generally they are not recognized, and therefore escape punishment. 
 
 Fourthly. The conduct of some of the officers has been so demoralizing that it was 
 next to impossible to keep discipline among the soldiers. Within six months after 
 the arrival of the troops at Sitka, the medical director informed me that nearly the 
 whole of the Sitka tribe, some twelve hundred in number, were suffering from vcne- 
 rial diseases. Many have died. 
 
 This has engendered a very deep feeling among the Indians here, but the extent of 
 it is only known to those traders with whom they can converse. Officers have carried 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 589 
 
 on with the same high hand among the Russian people, and were the testimony of citi 
 zens to be taken, many instances of real infamy and wrongs would come to light. 
 
 For a long time some of the officers drank immoderately of liquor, and it is telling 
 the simple truth when I say that one or two of them have been drunk for a week at a 
 time. The soldiers saw this, the Indians saw it ; and as " Ayas Tyhus" or " big chiefs/' 
 as they called the officers, drank, they thought that they too must get intoxicated. 
 Then came the distrust of American j ustice when they found themselves in the guard 
 house, but never saw the officers in when in a like condition. 
 
 ORIGIN OP THE KAKE WAR. 
 
 The Kake war arose out of a pure case of drunkenness. A soldier was on guard ; the 
 
 chief passed out; the soldier kicked him as he passed out. That soldier's name is ;.-. 
 
 A little Russian girl told me she saw the soldier kick the Indian. He was a Chilkaht 
 chief, and it being New Year's day, he had been to General Davis's house and "potlatched" 
 (treated) to a bottle of whiskey. He naturally felt insulted at a kick, and resented it by 
 seizing the soldier's gun. Trouble ensued. Orders were given to prevent the escape 
 of all Indians from the village, and a demand was made for the surrender of the chief. 
 
 They declared for war, but the general did not wish this, and used commendable 
 moderation. During the next day after, a parley ; the chief, together with an In 
 dian named Sitka Jack, surrendered. General Davis then issued an order counter 
 manding the previous one of ne exeat. The post commandant, who was drunk, either 
 did not promulgate the order or afterward reissued the first order on his own respon 
 sibility, I know not which. Lieutenant C. P. Eagen, of the Ninth Infantry, was that 
 day officer of the guard, and can tell exactly which occurred. I think the latter is the 
 truth. At all events, the next morning, a canoe with some Indians started to leave 
 the village to go wood-chopping, and the sentry on the wharf killed two of them. 
 
 They had not been informed that they could not leave the village. The order re 
 voking the ne exeat had been communicated by General Davis to Captain Mead, of 
 the United States naval steamer Saginaw, and Captain Henrique, of the United States 
 revenue cutter Reliance ; so they paid no attention to the Indians until they saw the 
 firing by the sentry. Thinking the same new trouble had arisen, they made chase for 
 the canoe. Afterward the (Kakes) Indians killed two white men in retaliation for 
 the murder of the two ; hence the war with them. 
 
 I do not know if the military reports of General Davis detailed these facts as I have 
 stated them, but I do know that the officer through whose culpable action two white 
 men met their death was never punished. He boasts u that there is not power enough 
 to dismiss him from the army, let him do as he likes." This is all wrong, and such 
 conduct is not calculated to ennoble any one, whether white or Indian. 
 
 It is but justice to say, however, for the last four months, to my knowledge, the con 
 duct of officers has greatly improved in this respect. New officers have, to a great ex 
 tent, supplied the places of the old, and others, stinging under the smarting sensation 
 caused by articles which have appeared in print, have reformed, at least outwardly. 
 
 It is clearly of my opinion that troops in Alaska are to a great extent needless. At 
 Sitka they should be stationed at Japanica Island, away from the town and the Indian 
 villages. At Kadiak and Kenai there is no earthly use for them. At Tongas and 
 Wrangle the causes of evil are at work. 
 
 It seems to me if troops are needed anywhere they should be near Sitka, and per 
 haps near Chilkaht or Youkon ; but with two good efficient gunboats carrying out the 
 policy of British Columbia, punishing summarily and justly any outrage committed 
 by the Indians, the Territory would be far better off, and the country, as a whole, 
 advanced in prosperity. These vessels, too, could serve a double purpose as well, sur 
 veying our island channels, bays, and harbors ; thus would be accomplished a two-fold 
 object, the preserving of peace and promotion of science. 
 
 So far as I know the Indians have a keen sense of justice, and they approve all their 
 actions by the rude code which exists among them. Let the policy of the government 
 be such as to insure this, and trouble will be seldom indeed. 
 Very respectfully, 
 
 WILLIAM S. DODGE, 
 
 Late Mayor of Sitka. 
 
 Hon. VINCENT COLYER. 
 
 APPENDIX N. 
 Letter from Thomas Murphy on citizenship for the Indians, 
 
 KADIAK, ALASKA TERRITORY, 
 
 September 27, 1869. 
 
 MY DEAR SIR : On last Thursday I made nine citizens in this town of men who 
 are known as half-breeds, or, as we call them, " Creoles," and immediately the news 
 
590 KEPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 spread all over the town, and it was not long before a large number came after me to 
 make American citizens of them also, and among the number of applicants was an In 
 dian chief who lives about one and one-half miles below this place. He told me 
 he had got some considerable property well improved; and he also told me he wanted 
 to be made a citizen, because he said he was afraid that if he was not a citizen, other 
 parties would come and jump his ground. I iufomed him that as the law was now he could 
 not become a citizen, and tried to convince him that there would be no danger of any 
 one interfering with his property. This he seemed to be very doubtful about. 
 
 I am told by those who know this chief in question, that he is quite intelligent, is a 
 Christian, as is the case with all Indians up as far as Atou Island, which is the most 
 western island in Alaska. This Indian keeps his house as clean as any poor man's 
 house you can find even in your own State. True, their stock of furniture is but limited ; 
 still it suits their immediate wants, arid if he were to be made an American, he 
 would be the proudest man in the country. I was sorry I could not gratify the poor 
 man; but if I had my say on the subject, I would make him a citizen by all means, for 
 I am satisfied he would be no disgrace to any American. 
 
 This is only one case out of thousands we have got here in Alaska, and no doubt 
 you will bear me out in what I state, as it is the truth. 
 I have the honor to remain, yours, respectfully, 
 
 THOS. G. MURPHY, 
 
 Editor of the Alaska Times. 
 
 Mr. VINCENT COLYER. 
 
 APPENDIX O. 
 Hon. William S. Dodge on citizenship. . 
 
 Of the Aleutian islanders and their prospective rights under our government, Mr. 
 Dodge says : There are, as statistics from the Russian records fully show, seven thousand 
 Aleutian and three thousand creole population. But, say our enemies^ "the Aleutians 
 are Indians, and not entitled to citizenship." Let us see : 
 
 The treaty of cession between Russia and the United States guarantees, in article 
 third, that " The inhabitants of the ceded territory, according to their choice, reserving 
 their natural allegiance, may return to Russia within three years; but if they should 
 prefer to remain in the ceded territory, they, with the exception of uncivilized native 
 tribes, shall be admitted to the enjoyment of all the rights, advantages, and immunities 
 of citizens of the United States, and shall be maintained and protected in the free enjoy 
 ment of their liberty, property, and religion." 
 
 Then again, in the same article, it says : " The uncivilized tribes will be subject to 
 such laws and regulations as the United States may, from time to time, adopt in regard 
 to aboriginal tribes of that country." 
 
 Thus, in the treaty, it is clearly manifested that a distinction in government was to 
 be made, and it shows that the Russian government observed jealous care in securing 
 to all but the savages the rights -of American citizenship. 
 
 And the distinction between the civilized and uncivilized is most positively indicated 
 in the "Russian memorandum marked A, A," draughted by Mr. Seward at his request of 
 August 6, 1867, by the Russian minister of foreign affairs at St. Petersburg, August 31, 
 1867. 
 
 The Aleutian population, who are mostly inhabitants of the islands of Alaska, are of 
 Asiatic origin. The Asiatic race is always classed among the civilized nations. These 
 people reside in towns, and live principally from the products of the fur-seal, sea-otter, 
 and fox. They have a language of their own, but from long association with the em 
 ploy e"s of the Russian-American Company, they nearly all talk the Russian tongue. 
 They have schools and churches of their own. Nearly all of them read and write. 
 Around their homes, in their churches and schools, are seen many, if not all, the con 
 comitants of ordinary American homes. Many among them are highly educated, even 
 in the classics. The administrator of the fur company often reposed great confidence 
 in them. One of their best physicians was an Aleutian ; one of their best navigators 
 was an Aleutian ; their best traders and accountants were Aleutians. Will it be said 
 that such a people are to be deprived of the rights of American citizenship ? The Rev. 
 Bishop of the Greco-Russian church has kindly furnished me with the information that 
 there were in Alaska, up to January 1, 1869, 12,140 Christians. During the years of 
 1867-'68, there were confirmed in the rites of the church 2,384 men and 2,191 women, 
 making a total of 4,575. There were also professors of the Greek faith, but not then 
 confirmed 82 men and 23 women. The number of professing children is quite large, 
 773 boys and 716 girls. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 591 
 
 APPENDIX P. 
 Letter from Captain C. W. Raymond, U. S. A., on the YouJcon River and tribes. 
 
 BRIG COMMODORE, 
 Unalaska Harbor, October 6, 1869. 
 
 DEAR Sm : I Lave just received yonr letter of this date, asking information concern 
 ing such of the Indian tribes of Alaska as have fallen under my observation. 
 
 I arn compelled to write wholly from memory, as my notes are inaccessible, and I feel 
 that, under the circumstances, any information which I may be able to give you will be 
 very meager and imperfect ; nevertheless, I will attempt to answer your inquiries. 
 
 With the exception of the Kalkurh Indians of Sitka, and the Aleutes of Unalaska 
 and the Seal Islands, (tribes with whose customs, manners, and condition you are un 
 doubtedly much more conversant than myself,) the Indians of Alaska who have fallen 
 under my observation may be divided into two classes the Indians of the coast and 
 the Indians of the interior. 
 
 INDIANS OF THE COAST. 
 
 Of the first of these classes, those concerning whom I can speak from personal knowl 
 edge, are all situated between Behring Straits and the Upper Aphron, mouth of the 
 Kvichpak, or Youkou River. 
 
 The general name of Malernute seems to be applied to all the Indians on this por 
 tion of the coast, but more correctly there are several large tribes of which the Male- 
 mute is one. 
 
 The principal tribes seem to be the Kaviacks, the Malemutes, the Unalachlutes, and 
 the Magamutes. 
 
 The Kaviacks inhabit that portion of the coast which is situated between Behring 
 Straits and Sound Galovniu ; the Malemutes are situated between this sound and the 
 Unalachlute River ; the Uualachlutes at the mouth and along the banks of the river of 
 that name, and the Magamutes are found from the Unalachlute River to the mouth of 
 the Kvichpak. These Indians are often called after the names of the villages which 
 they inhabit, but this nomenclature seems to be merely accidental, and has no connec 
 tion with their condition, character, or habits. 
 
 They intermingle with each other to a great extent, having been brought together, dur 
 ing many years, by their trading interests at St. Michael's, and consequently there is a 
 great similarity in their language, customs, character, and appearance. 
 
 It is almost impossible to form an estimate of the number of their people, as they 
 continually travel up and down the coast and are rarely met with in large parties. 
 A Russian trader of long experience informs me that, in his opinion, they number about 
 five thousand. During the winter these tribes live in their villages, trapping for skins 
 in the vicinity, and making occasional visits to St. Michael's for trading purposes. In 
 the summer they are more scattered, collecting stores of food for winter use. 
 
 The Kaviacks and Malemutes, in their skin canoes, hunt the walrus and the hair-seal, 
 and making then into the villages between the low Coast range, they kill the reindeer 
 in great numbers. 
 
 The Unalachluts during the summer are engaged in fishing for the salmon, and the 
 Magamutes seek the lower waters of the Kvichpak for the same purpose. This fish is 
 found in these rivers in enormous quantities. 
 
 Most of these Indians seem to be vigorous and healthy, and among them are many very 
 fine looking men. In these respects, the Kaviacks and Malemutes are far superior to 
 the others, as might be expected from their more active and hazardous pursuits. Never 
 theless, I found among them many of the diseases incident to reckless exposure. Con 
 sumption, colds, asthma, and croup, were by no means uncommon ; of the last named 
 disease great numbers of their children die yearly. 
 
 The food of these Indians consists of fish,* fresh and dried, reindeer meat, walrus, and 
 seal meat and oil. In the summer they trade in their bark and skin canoes, but in the 
 winter their only means of transportation is by their dogs and sleds. These dogs they 
 possess in great numbers, and the necessity of providing dried fish for dog food forms 
 no small addition to their summer labor. 
 
 Their villages contain from two or three to a dozen families, and consist of rude, low 
 houses built of logs and slabs, and covered with earth. The door is simply a small 
 round hole, placed near the ground, so that it is impossible to enter except on the hands 
 and knees. The fire is placed in the centre of the building, and the smoke makes way 
 through a hole in the roof. Rude as these houses are, they are nevertheless tight and 
 warm, and on more than one occasion, while making my way through this country, I 
 have been glad enough to obtain their shelter. Their winter houses are completely 
 under ground. 
 
 These Indians are very unclean in their habits, but they are, nevertheless, much supe- 
 
592 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 rior in this respect to the Kvichpak Indians, of whom I shall speak hereafter. Many 
 of their habits are too disgusting even to mention. They have no idea of comfort, few 
 artificial wants, and consequently little industry. 
 
 Such a thing as virtue is unknown among their women. They are all more or less 
 acquainted with the use of intoxicating liquors, and the northern tribes obtain quan 
 tities of spirits from the whalers, and trade with them along the coast ; but, as in all 
 my experience I did not observe a single case of intoxication, I do not believe them 
 to be intemperate. Indeed I am often told that they resold spirits to the Russians, 
 among whom the use of intoxicating liquors was carried to a great extent. 
 
 HOSPITALITY. 
 
 Finally, these people are kind, peaceable, generous, and hospitable without an excep 
 tion. Their guests can ask no favor which they deem too great. The warmest bed, 
 the most comfortable corner by the fire, the largest dishs are always for the stranger, be 
 he white man or red. One day, while my little party was making a portage from the 
 Auvic River to the coast, we came upon a hut of a Malemute Indian hunter, who had 
 made his camp in one of the numerous villages. He was very sick with the inflama- 
 tory rheumatism, and, with his wife, was awaiting the coming of some of his own peo 
 ple to remove him to his own village. We were wet, cold, tired, and entirely out of 
 provisions, and had eaten nothing for a day. He gave us all we desired from his 
 stock of reindeer meat, and would have crawled from his bed in order to provide us 
 with skins to sleep upon, had we permitted it. When we departed we offered to pay 
 him for his meat, for we had taken by far the greatest portion of his store ; but he 
 replied : u No ; this is a present. To-day you are my guest, some other time we will 
 buy and sell." 
 
 Other and equally beautiful instances of the untaught courtesy of these people I 
 would willingly enumerate, if time permitted. The Indians all wear skin clothing both 
 in summer and" winter. The paxa is a sort of long shirt of reindeer skin, the hair being 
 worn outward in dry weather and inward in wet. It has a hood attached which forms 
 a covering for the head, and which is usually trimmed with the cacayon or wolverine 
 skin. In the summer they wear leggins and boots of reindeer skin, with " moclock," and 
 are made with so much skill that they are completely water-tight. 
 
 The under lip is usually perforated under the corners of the mouth, and through these 
 holes pieces of bone, or bits of round stone, or metal are inserted. The women tattoo 
 their chins in vertical parallel lines. These and the wolverine trimmings are the only 
 attempts at ornaments I noticed among these people. The dress of the women so much 
 resemble that of the men that it would be almost impossible to distinguish them from 
 each other, were it not for the tattooing before mentioned. 
 
 TRADE. 
 
 Very little fish is sold by these Indians ; their trade with the whites consists almost 
 exclusively of furs. The valuable skins that are found in this portion of Alaska are, 
 as is well known, those of the marten or American sable, the mink, and the beaver. In 
 the interior the black and silver gray fox must be added to this list. 
 
 I am unable to state the amount of trade with the coast Indians, but it is small com 
 pared with the trade in the interior. The Indians in these parts of Alaska have no 
 idea of a currency. For all skins they take goods in exchange. The price depends upon 
 the quality of the skins, and is very valuable ; the goods which are in the most demand 
 among them are useful articles, such as needles, buttons, knives, kettles, axes, guns, 
 lead, powder, caps, blankets, &c. ; tobacco and tea they have learned from the Russians, 
 are also much sought for. 
 
 Concerning the influence of the Russians and their church upon these people, I shall 
 speak hereafter. The tribes which I have classed generally as Indians of the interior 
 are all situated on the banks of the Kvichpak or Youkon River and its tributaries. It 
 has been my fortune to travel for a distance of about fourteen hundred miles upon the 
 waters of this grand and magnificent stream. The Indian tribes are so numerous and 
 varied in habits and character, that I am at a loss to do the subject any sort of justice 
 in this brief article. 
 
 INDIANS OF THE LOWER KVICHPAK. 
 
 The Indians inhabiting that portion of the river and those tributaries which are 
 situated between Nulato and the mouth may, perhaps, for a general description, be 
 classified with sufficient accuracy under the head of the Indians of the Lower Kvichpak. 
 Nulato is a small trading post, situated about six hundred miles from the mouth of the 
 river. Beyond this point the Russian influence and trade extends but little. 
 
 The principal tributaries which empty into this part of the river are the Auvic, 
 whose mouth is about two hundred miles below Nulato, the Shagelook, which empties 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 593 
 
 into a large slough of the same name, about thirty miles above Auyic and Sakaitski, 
 which enters the main river about one hundred and fifty miles above the Auvic. 
 
 The Indians of this part of the river rn/iy be subdivided into two great tribes, the 
 Magamutes or Prinoski people, who extend from the mouth of the river to within 
 about fifty miles of the Auvic, and the Ingeletes, who inhabit the remaining part and 
 the tributaries; All these people much resemble the Magamutes of the coast in appear 
 ance, manners, dress, and mode of life. Drawing their entire subsistence, however, 
 with little labor from the waters of the great river, they are much less active and 
 energetic than the Coast Indians. They are cowardly and degraded to the lowest 
 extent, and live in constant dread of the highland Indians, who inhabit the higher 
 portions of the river. They are filthy in the extreme. Their persons and houses reek 
 with grease, and swarm with vermin. Nevertheless, they are extremely honest, kind, 
 good natured, hospitable, and generous. 
 
 To the above remark I must except the Indians of the Shagalook River. These 
 Indians I had no opportunity to observe personally, but I am informed that they are 
 a very much superior race ; that they are warlike, enterprising, and intelligent, and 
 that hunting is their chief means of livelihood. My remarks with reference to trade 
 with the Coast Indians apply as well to all these people. 
 
 The language spoken by the Ingeletes is totally different from that of the Coast 
 Indians, Prinoski and Magamutes, and closely resembles that of the Kuyakunski, whom 
 I next notice. From Nulato to the mouth of the Tunana River, a distance of about 
 three hundred miles, the Indians have been by the Russians called by the general 
 name of the Kuyakinchi. This name, however, properly belongs to the tribe which 
 inhabit the banks of the Kuyaknk River, a large tributary, which enters the Kvichpak 
 about twenty-five miles above Nulato. These people are more warlike, more treacher 
 ous, in brief,' more like the traditional red man than the Indians which I have pre 
 viously described. No trouble has been experienced from them during late years, 
 but in the year 1850 they made a descent upon the Russian trading post at Nulato, 
 killed nearly all the garrison, and completely exterminated an inoffensive tribe of 
 Ingelets, whose village was near the forts. Among those who lost their lives in this 
 massacre was Lieutenant Barnard, an officer of the English navy, who was engaged in 
 the search for Sir John Franklin. 
 
 In their habits, appearance, and trade, these people mu6h resemble the Ingeletes. 
 They are, however, great hunters. At the mouth of the great Tanana River, on -the 
 left 'bank of the Youkon, is a large level plain, called Nuducayette. This is the trading 
 ground of the Tauana Indians. The Tanana deserve more than a passing notice. It is 
 by far the largest tributary of the Youkon. No white man, I think, has yet ascended 
 it, but it is believed that, making a large bend to the eastward, its head waters lie 
 near those of the great river ; at its entrance into the Yukon it is at least half a mile 
 wide, and its current is tremendous. The tribes on this river must be very numerous ; 
 they assemble at Nuducayette every spring, when they meet the white traders. I esti 
 mate the entire yield of furs of the Youkon and its tributaries to be about twenty thou 
 sand skins yearly, and more than a third of these, I believe, come from the banks of the 
 Tanana. 
 
 Of these people I know little. They are a fine looking race, and are said to be active, 
 intelligent, and enterprising ; they are much addicted to the use of ornaments, such as 
 beads and feathers, and their clothing consists almost entirely of tanned moose skins. 
 These Indians, and the Indians of Fort Youkon, are occasionally met with between the 
 Tanana and the Rumparts, a point where the banks of the river rise into mountains, 
 and the current becomes extremely rapid. Beyond this point there are no Indians 
 until we arrive at Fort Youkon. 
 
 TRIBES AROUND FORT YOUKON. 
 
 Fort Youkon has been, up to this time, the most western post of the Hudson's Bay Com 
 pany. The principal tribes which have been accustomed to trade at this post are the 
 Kotch a Kotchins, (or lowlanders,) who live between the Porcupine and Youkon Rivers, 
 near their junction; the Au Kotchins, or Gens-de-fine, and the Tatanchaks, or Gens-de- 
 wiz, who inhabit the Upper Youkon and the Porcupine, or Gens-de-ralt, who live upon 
 the banks of the Porcupine, or Rat River. These tribes are composed of the finest 
 Indians I have ever met. The women are virtuous, the men are brave, intelligent, and 
 enterprising. 
 
 Their clothing is of moose skin, with the exception of a few articles which they 
 obtain by trade. They fish little, and are almost exclusively engaged in hunting the 
 moose, which abound in these parts, and in trapping for skins. In trading, they de 
 mand useful articles ; but beads, bright-colored scarfs, and other articles of ornament 
 are much sought. All the dealings of the Hudson's Bay Company with the nations seem 
 to have been fair and equitable. The Indians are much attached to this company, and 
 do not look with favor upon their departure. 
 
 38 I A 
 
594 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 MORAL AND MISSIONARY EFFORTS. 
 
 Although well aware that they were violating a treaty, the agents of this company 
 have been for a number of years accustomed to trade as far down the river as Nuclu- 
 cayette, and have thus drawn great quantities of valuable skins from the Russian ter 
 ritory. The Russian trade on the lower part of the river must have been large ; but it 
 was never prosecuted with that energy and vigor which distinguish the great English 
 company. Neither company gave or sold ardent spirits to the Indians. Toward Chris 
 tianizing and civilizing the nations of northern Alaska little has been done. On the 
 coast, and at different points on the lower Kvichpak, the Greco-Russian church has 
 had for years its establishment and its priests, but I could see no traces of a good in 
 fluence, beyond a few Indians who had been in the service of the Russian company. 
 
 But if this church has done little toward Christianizing this people, it must, never 
 theless, be confessed that there is among them a most remarkable absence of super 
 stition. They seem to me to present the astonishing appearance' of a people totally 
 without a worship and without a God. 
 
 The Indians situated between the Nudota and the Ramparts have never been 
 brought under missionary influence. Their superstitions are endless. Every tribe has 
 its "medicine man," but I have never been able to obtain any correct idea of their be 
 liefs or worship. 
 
 At Fort Youkon the case is far different. Here, for some years past, there has been 
 a missionary of the Church of England. I cannot say that much has been accom 
 plished toward educating the natives, but to me the effect of Gospel teaching was 
 very striking. By tradition these people seem to have been a warlike and quarrelsome 
 race, but of late years they have lived at peace with the whites and among them 
 selves. The missionary preaches to them, and they worship in the native tongue. 
 Of course, much of superstition mingles with their religion ; but the influence of the 
 Gospel, as far as it has been extended, has been for their great good. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company has ever pursued an enlightened policy with regard to 
 the encouragement of missions among the Indians with whom they trade. Now that 
 fhey are about to withdraw from our Territory, the English mission will doubtless be 
 broken up. I cannot refrain from expressing the hope that, while American enterprise 
 is so rapidly developing this new country, American religion will not permit its people 
 to relapse into their original darkness, and allow a great work, so well begun, to 
 cease. 
 
 TRADERS. 
 
 There are but two companies engaged in the Indian trade to any extent in northern 
 Alaska. Hutchison, Kohle & Co., a large firm of San Francisco, have a number of 
 posts at various points of the river, and another large company, which has no name, 
 but is backed by one of the wealthiest capitalists of San Francisco, is established 
 along the river and on the coast. This latter company have already placed a small 
 steamboat on the Youkon, the first that has ever traveled in these waters. 
 
 I regret that my limited time compels me to bring this letter to a close. The subject 
 opens up as I write, and I would gladly continue. But although this outline sketch is 
 eo brief and imperfect, I hope that it may be of some slight service to the commission. 
 Very respectfully, your most obedient servant, 
 
 CHARLES WALKER RAYMOND, 
 
 Captain of Engineers. 
 Hon. VINCENT COLYER, 
 
 United States Special Indian Commissioner. 
 
 Mr. William H. Dall, in his interesting report to the Commissioner of Agriculture, 
 1869, says of the Youkon territory : 
 
 SURFACE. 
 
 The character of the country in the vicinity of the Youkon River varies from 
 rolling and somewhat rocky hills, generally low, that is, from five hundred to fif 
 teen hundred feet, and easy of ascent, to broad and marshy plains, extending for 
 miles on either side of the river near the mouth. There are, of course, no roads ex 
 cept an occasional trail, hardly noticeable except to a voyageur. The Youkon and its 
 tributaries form the great highway of the country. This streamthe Missouri, as the 
 Mackenzie is the Mississippi, of the northwest is navigable in our territory through 
 out for vessels drawing not over four feet of water, and for many hundred miles for 
 boats needing much more than that. The smaller rivers are not so deep, but many of 
 them may be navigable for considerable distances. There are no high mountains, 
 properly so called. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 595 
 
 SOIL. 
 
 The underlying rocks in great part are azoic, being conglomerate, syenite, and 
 quartzite. The south shore of Norton Sound, and portions of the Kaviak Penin 
 sula, are basalt and lava. Trachytic rocks are found at several points on the Youkon. 
 There are, on the northeast shores of Norton Sound, abundance of sandstones', and 
 clay beds containing lignite. Sandstone is abundant also on the Youkon, alternating 
 with azoic rocks. The superincumbent soil differs in different places. In some locali 
 ties it is clayey, and in such situations quite frequently covered with sphagnum, 
 which always impoverishes the soil immediately below it. In others it is light and 
 sandy, and over a large extent of country it is the richest alluvial, composed of very 
 tine sand, mud, and vegetable matter, brought down by the river, and forming deposits 
 of indefinite depth. 
 
 u In some localities fresh-water marl is found in abundance, and is used for mortar 
 or plaster, to whiten the walls of log-houses. 
 
 " The soil is usually frozen at a depth of three or four feet in ordinary situations. 
 In colder ones it remains icy to within eighteen inches of the surface. This layer of 
 frozen soil is six or eight feet thick ; below that depth the soil is destitute of ice, ex 
 cept in very unusual situations. 
 
 " This singular phenomenon appears to be directly traceable to want of drainage, 
 combined with a non-conducting covering of moss, which prevents the soil from being 
 wanned by the scorching sun of a boreal midsummer. In places where the soil is well 
 drained, and is not covered with moss, as in the large alluvial deposits near the Youkon 
 mouth, I have noticed that the frozen layer is much further below the surface, and in 
 many places appeared to be absent. I have no doubt that in favorable situations, by 
 draining and deep plowing, the ice could, in the course of time, be wholly removed 
 from the soil. 
 
 "A singular phenomenon on the shores of Kotzebue Sound was first observed by 
 Kotzebue and Chamisso, and is described in the narrative of the voyage of the Rurik, 
 and afterward by Buckland in the appendix to the voyage of the Herald. This con 
 sisted of bluffs or high banks, (thirty to sixty feet,) apparently of solid ice, covered with 
 a few feet of vegetable matter and earth, in which a luxuriant vegetation was flour 
 ishing. 
 
 " Kotzebue's description of this singular formation is highly colored ; but the main 
 facts were confirmed by Dr. Buckland and his companions, who made a careful exam 
 ination of the locality, "although Captain Beechy had previously reported that Kotze 
 bue had been deceived by snow drifted against the face of the banks and remaining, 
 while in other localities it had melted away. 
 
 " It is reported by Buckland and later observers that the formation is rapidly disap 
 pearing, and the water in the sound is becoming shoaler every day, from the fall of the 
 debris which covers the ice. 
 
 " No explanation having been offered of this singular phenomenon, I venture to sug 
 gest that it may be due to essentially the same causes as the subterranean ice layer, 
 found over a great part of the Youkon Territory. 
 
 " It is quite possible to conceive of a locality depressed, and so deprived of drainage, 
 that the annual moisture derived from the rain-fall and melting snow would collect 
 between the impervious clayey soil and its sphagnous covering ; congeal during the 
 winter, and be prevented from melting during the ensuing summer by that mossy cov 
 ering, which would thus be gradually raised ; the process annually repeated for an 
 indefinite period would form an ice layer which might well deserve the appellation of 
 an ' ice cliff/ when the encroachments of the sea should have worn away its barriers, 
 and laid it open to the action of the elements. 
 
 " The lesson that the agriculturalist may learn from this curious formation is, that 
 a healthy and luxuriant vegetation may exist in immediate vicinity of permanent ice, 
 bearing its blossoms and maturing its seed as readily as in apparently more favored 
 situations ; and hence that a large extent of northern territory long considered valueless 
 may yet furnish to the settler, trader, or fisherman, if not an abundant harvest, at least 
 a very acceptable and not inconsiderable addition to his annual stock of food, besides 
 fish, venison, and game. 
 
 CLIMATE. 
 
 "The climate of the Youkon territory in the interior differs from that of the 
 sea-coast, even in localities comparatively adjacent. That of the coast is tempered 
 by the influence of the vast body of water contained in Behring Sea, and many south 
 ern currents bringing warmer water from the Pacific, making the winter climate ' 
 of the coast much milder than that of the country, even thirty miles into the interior. 
 The summers, on the other hand, are colder than further inland, and the quantity of 
 vain is greater. The following table shows the annual temperature at St. Michael's 
 Redoubt, on the coast of Norton Sound, in latitude 63 28' north; at the mission of the 
 
596 
 
 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 Russo-Greek church, on the Youkou River, one hundred and fifty miles from its mouth 
 in latitude 60 47' north ; at Nulato, about six hundred miles from the mouth of the 
 river, in latitude 64 40' north, or thereabouts ; and at Fort Youkon, twelve hundred 
 miles from the mouth of the river, and about latitude 67 10' north : 
 
 
 ! St. Michael's. 
 
 Mission. 
 
 Nulato. F't Youkou. 
 
 Mean for spring 
 
 o 
 +29 3 
 
 o 
 +19. 62 
 
 
 
 _i_29 3 +14 22 
 
 
 +53 o 
 
 + 59 32 
 
 +60 0" ' +59 67 
 
 Mean for autumn 
 
 +26 3 
 
 -i 36 05 
 
 +36 0? +17 3V 
 
 Mean for winter 
 
 : -f 8. 6 
 
 + 0.95 
 
 14 23 80 
 
 Mean for year 
 
 _j 29 3 
 
 -f26 48 
 
 +27 8 ! +16 92 
 
 
 
 
 
 "The mean temperature at Uiialaklik, on the east shore of Norton Sound, for the 
 winter of 1866-'67 was 0.33 ; but for that of 1667-'68 it was only about +9. The mean 
 annual temperature of the Youkon territory as a whole may be roughly estimated as 
 about -f-25. The greatest degree of cold ever known in the territory was seventy de 
 grees below zero, but such cold as this is very rare, and has little effect on the vege 
 tation covered with eight or ten feet of snow. Running water may be found open on 
 all the rivers, and in many springs throughout the year. 
 
 " The real opportunity for agriculture in a cold country cannot be deduced from an 
 nual mean temperatures alone, but is dependent on the heat of the summer months 
 and the duration of the summer. 
 
 " At Fort Youkon I have seen the thermometer at noon, not in the direct rays of the 
 sun, standing at 112 ; and I was informed by the commander of the post that several 
 spirit thermometers, graduated up to 120, had burst under the scorching sun of the 
 arctic midsummer, which can only be thoroughly appreciated by one who has endured 
 it. In midsummer, on the Upper Youkon, the only relief from the intense heat, under 
 which the vegetation attains an almost tropical luxuriance, is the two or three hours 
 while the sun hovers near the northern horizon, aiid the weary voyager in his canoe 
 blesses the transient coolness of the midnight air. 
 
 "The amount of rain-fall cannot be correctly estimated, from want of data. At 
 Nulato the fall of snow from November to April will average eight feet, but often 
 reaches twelve. It is much less on the seaboard. Partly on this account, and also 
 because it is driven seaward by the winds, there is usually, even in spring, very little 
 snow on the coasts near Norton Sound. 
 
 " In the interior there is less wind, and the snow lies as it falls among the trees. 
 Toward spring the small ravines, gulleys, and bushes are w r ell filled or covered up, and 
 transportation is easy and pleasant with a good sled and team of dogs. The warm sun 
 at noon melts the snow a little, forming a hard crust. Over this the dog-sleds can go 
 anywhere, making from thirty to fifty miles a day, carrying full one hundred pounds to 
 a dog, and requiring for each dog only one dry fish per diem, which weighs about a 
 pound and a half, and which you can buy for two leaves of tobacco. Seven dogs are 
 the usual number for one team. 
 
 "The rain-fall, as has previously been remarked, is much greater on the coast than 
 in the interior. Four days in a week will be rainy in summer at St. Michael's, although 
 the months of May, June, and part of July ab.ound in sunny weather. The last part 
 of July, August, and most of September are very rainy. October brings a change ; the 
 winds, usually from the southwest from July to the latter part of September, now are 
 mostly from the north, and though cold, bring fine weather. 
 
 " The valley of the Lower Youkon is foggy in the latter part of the summer, but as 
 we go up the river the climate improves, and the short summer at Fort Youkon is dry, 
 hot, and pleasant, only varied by an occasional shower. The great pests in the spring, 
 all along the river, are the mosquitoes, the numbers of which are beyond belief ; but 
 they retire about the middle of July. On the coast they are not so numerous, but lin 
 ger until the fall. 
 
 INHABITANTS. 
 
 "The native inhabitants, curiously enough, are divided by the same invisible 
 boundary that marks the vegetation. All along the treeless coast we find the Es 
 quimaux tribes; passing a few miles inland we come to trees and Indian lodges. 
 This holds good all over the Youkon territory. The Esquimaux extend all along the 
 coast and up the principal rivers as far as there are no trees. The Indians populate tho 
 interior, but seldom pass the boundary of the woods. In regard to habits, neither per 
 form, any agricultural labor whatever, and the only vegetables, besides berries, used 
 for food, are the roots of Hedysarum Mackenzii, Polygonum viviparum, and a species of 
 Archangelica, and the leafstalks of a species of Rheum or wild rhubarb. 
 
 "A great delicacy among the Esquimaux is the stomach of the reindeer, distended 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 597 
 
 with willow sprigs, well masticated, and in a half-digested state. This ' gruesome 
 mass' is dried for winter use ; when it is mixed with melted suet, oil, and snow, and 
 regarded by the consumers much as we regard caviar, or any other peculiar dainty. It 
 is, no doubt, a powerful antiscorbutic. The Russian settlements in the Youkon terri 
 tory were few in number. There were four on the Youkon, one on the Kuskoquim 
 River, two on Norton Sound, and one on Bristol Bay. All of these were formerly 
 provided with gardens. The number of Russians in the territory at no time exceeded 
 forty, with double the number of half-breeds, assistants, or workmen. They were all 
 in the employ of the Russian- American Company. Many of them left the country after 
 the purchase, but the greater number remain in the employ of different American trad 
 ing companies. The Russian-born inhabitants were a very degraded class, almost 
 without exception convicts from Siberia or elsewhere. The Creoles or half-breeds are 
 a more intelligent and docile race, but lazy, and given to intoxication whenever stim 
 ulants are within their reach. 
 
 " Natural productions. The first need of traveler, hunter, or settler, in any country, 
 is timber. With this almost all parts of the Youkon territory are well supplied. 
 Even the treeless coasts of the Arctic Ocean can hardly be said to be an exception, as 
 they are bountifully supplied with driftwood, brought down by the Youkon, Kusko 
 quim, and other rivers, and distributed by the waves and ocean currents. 
 
 "The largest and most valuable tree found in this territory is the white spruce, 
 (Abies alba.) This beautiful conifer is found over the whole country, but it is largest 
 and most vigorous in the vicinity of running water. It attains not unfrequently 
 the height of sixty to one hundred feet, with a diameter of over three feet near 
 the butt ; but the more common size is about thirty or forty feet high, and about 
 eighteen inches at the butt. The wood of this tree is straight-grained, easily cut, 
 white and compact, and while very light, it is also very tough, much more so than 
 the wood of the Oregon pine, (Abies Douglasii.) For spars it has no superior, but it is 
 rather too slender for large masts. The bark is used for roofing by the Hudson's Bay 
 Company at Fort Youkon, and the roots, properly prepared, for 'sewing their birch 
 canoes and dishes, by the Indians. I have seen log-houses twenty years old, in which 
 many of the logs were quite sound. The unsound logs were said to be those which had 
 been used without being seasoned. These trees decrease in size and grow more spar 
 ingly toward Fort Youkon, but are still large enough for most purposes. The unex 
 plored waters of the Tananah River bring down the largest logs in the spring fresh 
 ets. The number which are annually discharged from the mouth of the Youkon is 
 truly incalculable. It supplies the shores of Behring Sea, the islands, and the Arctic 
 coasts ; logs of all sizes lie in winrows, where they are thrown upon the shore by the 
 October southwesters. 
 
 " The wood is put to manifold uses : houses, Indian lodges, &c., are all constructed 
 of spruce. Soft, fine-grained, and easily cut, the Indians of the Lower Youkon spend 
 their leisure, during the short winter days, in carving dishes, bowls, and other utensils 
 and ornamenting them with red oxide of iron, in patterns, some of which, though far 
 from classical, are very neat. 
 
 " Sleds, frames for skin boats, fishing rods, &c., are made by the Esquimaux from 
 spruce, and all their houses and casinos, or dance-houses, are built of it. One of these, 
 en Norton Sound, about thirty by forty feet square, had on each side shelves or seats 
 formed of one plank, four inches thick and thirty-eight inches wide at the smaller end. 
 These enormous planks took six years to make, and were cut out of single logs with 
 small stone adzes. 
 
 " The next most important tree is the birch, (Betula glandulosa.") This tree rarely 
 grows over eighteen inches in diameter and forty feet high ; on one occasion, however, 
 I saw a water-worn log about fifteen feet long, quite decorticated, lying on the river 
 bank near Nuklukahyet, on the Upper Youkon, which was twenty-four inches in diam 
 eter at one end and twenty-eight at the other. This is the only hardwood tree in the 
 Youkon Territory, and is put to a multiplicity of uses. Everything needing a hard and 
 tough wood is constructed of birch. Sleds, snow-shoes, standards for the fish traps, 
 and frames of canoes, which are afterwards covered with its bark, sewed with spruce 
 or tamarack (Larix) roots, and the seams calked with spruce gum. The black birch is 
 also found there, but does not grow so large. The soft new wood of the birch, as well 
 as of the poplar, is cut very fine and mingled with his tobacco by the economical Indian. 
 The squaws at certain periods wear birchen hoops around their necks ; and neck-rings 
 and wristlets of the same wood, with fantastic devices scratched upon them, are worn 
 as a token of mourning for dead friends by the Tananah Indians. 
 
 " Several species of poplar (Popnlus balsamifera and Populus tremnloidcs) abound, the 
 former along the water-side, and the latter on drier uplands. The first-mentioned species 
 grows to a very large size. The trees are frequently two or three feet in diameter and 
 iroin forty to sixty feet high. The timber is of little value, but the Indians make small 
 boards, for different purposes, out of the soft wood, and use the feathery down from the 
 catkins for making tinder, by rubbing it tip with powdered charcoal. 
 
 " Willows are the inovst abundant of trees. They are of all sizes, from the slender 
 
598 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 variety on the Lower Youkon, which grows seventy or eighty feet high while only six 
 inches in diameter at the butt, and with a mere wisp of straggling branches at the 
 extreme tip, to the dwarf willow, crawling under the moss, with a stem no bigger than 
 a lead pencil, and throwing up shoots a few inches high. Willows are almost inva 
 riably rotten at the heart, and are only good for fuel. The Kutchin Indians make bows 
 of the wood to shoot ducks with ; as its elasticity is not injured by being wet. The 
 inner bark is used for making twine for nets and seines by the Indian women, and the 
 Esquimaux of Behring Straits use willow bark to color and tan their dressed deer 
 skins. It produces a beautiful red-brown, somewhat like Russian leather. The inner 
 bark or cambium of the alder (Alnus rubra) is used for the same purpose. 
 
 " The other species rising to the rank of trees in this district are the larch, (Larix 
 dahurica ?), which is 4 found on rolling prairies, of small size ; a small birch, (Betula nana,) 
 and several alders, (Alnus viridis and incana,) a species of Juniper, (Juniperus,) and 
 numberless willows, (Salicce.) A species of june (Pinus cenibra) has been reported from 
 Kotzebue Sound, I cannot but think erroneously, as I saw no true pines in the Territory 
 during a two years' exploration. The most northern point touched by the Pinus con- 
 torta, at the junction of the Lewis and the Pelly Rivers, at Fort Selkirk, in latitude 
 63 north, longitude 137 west (approximate.) The Hudson's Bay men at Fort Youkon 
 call the white spruce " pine." 
 
 FODDER. 
 
 " The treeless coasts of the Youkon territory are covered, as well as the low-lands 
 of the Youkon, with a most luxuriant growth of grass and flowers. Among the 
 more valuable of these grasses (of which some thirty species are known to exist in 
 the Youkon territory) is the well known Kentucky bine-grass (Poa pratensis,) which 
 grows luxuriantly as far north as Kotzebue Sound, and perhaps to Point Barrow. 
 
 " The wood meadow-grass (Poa nemoralis) is also abundant, and furnishes to cattle 
 an agreeable and luxuriant pasturage. 
 
 "The blue-joint grass ( Calamagrostis Canadensis) also reaches the latitude of Kotzebue 
 Sound, and grows on the coast of Norton Sound with a truly surprising luxuriance, 
 reaching in very favorable localities four or even five feet in height, and averaging at 
 least three. Many other grasses enumerated in the list of useful plants grow abun 
 dantly, and contribute largely to the whole amount of herbage. Two species of Elymus 
 almost deceive the traveler with the aspect of grain fields, maturing a perceptible ker 
 nel, which the field mice lay up in store. 
 
 "The grasses are woven into mats, dishes, articles of clothing for summer use, such as 
 socks, mittens, and a sort of hats, by all the Indians, and more especially by the Esqui 
 maux. 
 
 " In winter the dry grasses, collected in summer for the purpose, and neatly tied in 
 bunches, are shaped to correspond with the foot, and placed between the foot and the 
 seal-skin sole of the winter boots worn in that country. There they serve as a non 
 conductor, keeping the foot dry and warm, and protecting it from contusion to an ex 
 tent which the much-lauded moccasins of the Hudson's Bay men never do. In fact, I 
 believe the latter to be, without exception, the worst, most uncomfortable, and least 
 durable covering for the foot worn by mortal man. 
 
 " Grain has never been sown on a large scale in the Youkon territory. Barley, I was 
 informed, had once or twice been tried at Fort Youkon, in small patches, and the grain 
 had matured, though the straw was very short. The experiments were never carried 
 any further, however, the traders being obliged to devote all their energies to the col 
 lection of furs. No grain had ever been sown by the Russians at any of the posts. In 
 the fall of 1867 I shook out an old bag, purchased from the Russians, which contained 
 a handful of mouse-eaten grain, probably wheat : the succeeding spring, on examining 
 the locality, quite a number of blades appeared, and when I left Nulato, June 2d, they 
 were two or three inches high, growing rapidly. As I did not return I cannot say 
 what the result was. Turnips and radishes always flourished extremely well at St. 
 Michael's, and the same is said of Nulato and Fort Youkon. 
 
 " Potatoes succeeded at the latter place, though the tubers were small. They were 
 regularly planted for several years, until the seed was lost by freezing during the win 
 ter. At St. Michael's they did not do well. Salad was successful ; but cabbages would 
 not head. 
 
 " The white round turnips grown at St. Michael's were the best I ever saw anywhere, 
 and very large, many of them weighing five or six pounds. They were crisp and 
 sweet, though occasionally a very large one would be hollow-hearted. The Russians 
 preserved the tops also in vinegar for winter use. 
 
 CATTLE. 
 
 " I see no reason why cattle with proper winter protection might not be success 
 fully kept in most parts of the Youkon territory. Fodder, as previously shown, is 
 abundant. The wild sheep, moose, and reindeer abound, and find no want of food. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 599 
 
 " A bull and cow were once sent to Fort Youkon by the Hudson's Bay Company. 
 They did well for some time, but one day, while the cow was grazing on the river 
 bank, the soil gave way, and she was thrown down and killed. Due notice was given 
 of the fact, but for a year or two the small annual supply of butter in the provisions 
 for Fort Youkon was withheld on the ground of there being " l cattle" (to wit, the bull) 
 at that post. Finally the commander killed the animal, determined that if he could 
 not have butter, he would at least have beef. . It will be remembered that this point is 
 north of the Arctic Circle, and the most northern point in Alaska inhabited by white 
 men. 
 
 FRUITS. 
 
 " There are, as might be supposed, no tree fruits in the Youken territory suitable 
 for food. Small fruits are there in the greatest profusion. Among them may be 
 noted red and black currants, gooseberries, cranberries, raspberries, thimbleberries, 
 salinonberries, blueberries, killikinik berries, bearberries, dewberries, twinberries, ser 
 vice or heathberries, mossberries, and roseberries ; the latter, the fruit of the Rosa 
 tinnamomea, when touched by the frost, form a pleasant addition to the table, not be 
 ing dry and woolly, as in our climate, but sweet and juicy. 
 
 "All these berries, but especially the salmonberry or " morosky" of the Russians 
 (Rubus chamaemorus,) are excellent anti-scorbutics. They are preserved by the Esqui 
 maux in large wooden dishes or vessels holding five gallons or more ; covered with 
 large leaves, they undergo a slight fermentation, and freeze solid when cold weather 
 comes. In this state they may be kept indefinitely ; and a more delicious dish than a 
 plateful of these berries, not so thoroughly melted as to lose their coolness, and 
 sprinkled with a little white sugar, it would 'be impossible to conceive. 
 
 " The Russians also prepare a very luscious conserve from these and other berries, 
 relieving the sameness of a diet of fish, bread, and tea, with the native productions of 
 the country." 
 
 APPENDIX Q. 
 Report of L. A. Lagrange, on Unalaska. 
 
 SIR : In reply to your inquiries concerning the Aleutes of Unalaska and their sur 
 roundings, I will answer in the order you have presented them. 
 
 UNALASKA, 
 
 the most important of the Aleutian Islands, is in about latitude 166 and longitude 54. 
 Like the rest of this group it is of volcanic origin. Its surface, devoid of trees, is 
 mountainous, interspersed with valleys, which I think, with proper culture, would 
 yield good crops of roots and some of the cereals. There are many small lakes and 
 streams of sweet water in the island, most of them inhabited by trout, and frequented 
 by wild fowl ; and the priest of the Russian-Greek church told me of a lake over the 
 mountains, about two days' journey from Iliouliouk, around which the Aleutes used to find 
 amber, but he said no one "had visited it lately, and that the Russians collected and 
 sent away all that had ever been found. I have been told that in one arm of the bay 
 is a bed of copper, but have never been able to locate it. This may some day be traced 
 to the shore and worked to advantage. 
 
 ILALUK, 
 
 the chief settlement, is situated on a narrow level spot of land, which is formed by 
 the bay or one side and a considerable stream of water on the other, which empties 
 into the bay a short distance below the village. Back of the river the hills rise 
 abruptly. The village, mostly of sod houses, contains about three hundred native in 
 habitants, three stores or trading posts, and a handsome Greek church. The place has 
 been visited several times by earthquakes, and one, a number of years ago, destroyed 
 a greater part of the village, which has been rebuilt further up the spit. The same 
 convulsion deepened, or rather formed the inner harbor, which prior to that time ex 
 isted only as a shoal, but is now an excellent anchorage for vessels of every class. 
 
 STORES, 
 
 three in number, all find something to do. Two of them, belonging respectively to 
 Messrs. Maylor and Bendel, and Hutchinson, Kohl & Co., have established branches in 
 other settlements at different points of the island. The third^ with a small stock of 
 goods, was opened by the schooner General Harney in August last. That of Taylor 
 and Bendel was opened May, and Hutchinson, Kohl & Co. have had a post there since 
 1867->68. 
 
600 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 AGRICULTURE, 
 
 as practiced by the Aleutes, without any beasts of burden, is in a small way quite suc 
 cessful. Small potatoes are grown without any care whatever except planting and 
 gathering them. The dirt is thrown up in ridges or beds with shovels, holes made 
 with sticks, potatoes dropped in singly and covered up, then left undisturbed by hoe 
 or spade until harvest time. The planting is done during the latter part of May and 
 the first of June, and the digging in September and October. With a little more care 
 turnips of a superior quality are grown. The priest told me that the former bishop 
 brought rye and barley to maturity near the village, but that wheat would not thrive. 
 In the rich valleys before mentioned many grasses grow with a wild luxuriance and de 
 velop fully, but, owing to the mists which prevail, it would be difficult to cure large 
 quantities of hay before the grasses were too old and strong for a prime article. 
 
 This difficulty could be easily overcome, however, as there is a way of curing hay 
 with salt known to farmers. 
 
 The priest has two cows and a bullock, and the agent of Messrs. Hutchinsou, Kohl 
 & Co. a number of sheep and swine; these animals, all in fine condition, provide fer 
 themselves in summer, and receive but little care in winter. 
 
 INDUSTRY OF NATIVES. 
 
 The Aleutes are frequently employed as sailors, and are of great service to vessels 
 loading or discharging cargo. They work faithfully and intelligently for a moderate 
 compensation, the current wages being a dollar a day in coin. 
 
 The men perform the outdoor labor, leaving the women to look after the house and 
 children. The traders employ them to prepare their furs for market. They are uni 
 formly kind, friendly, and honest. Locks and keys, when sold among them, are more 
 for ornament than security. 
 
 INTEMPERANCE. 
 
 Like most other Indians, most of them have an appetite for ardent spirits, and be 
 fore our government prohibited the importation of liquor into the Territory great bar 
 gains in furs were made with them for all manner of oil compounds by those who boast 
 of this now. I do not think they obtained any liquors from traders during my resi 
 dence in Unalaska ; but each " prasnik " or holiday many men and women were drunk 
 from the effects of quass. This quass is a fermented liquor made by themselves from 
 flour, sugar, and a kind of whortleberry which grows on every hillside. In winter 
 dried apples and raisins are used in place of the berries. This has a sour and, to me, nau 
 seating taste. Those who use it drink it by the quart and get very drunk, but I am glad 
 to say this intemperance is by no means universal, there being many sober, steady men 
 among them. Having already mentioned prasniks I will here say a word concerning 
 their 
 
 RELIGION. 
 
 All the Aleutes, as far as I have seen, are devoted members of the Greek church. 
 Many of them come fifteen or twenty miles in their bidarkas, or skin canoes, (the uni 
 versal means of transportation,) to attend church service on certain holidays. The 
 priest at Iliouliouk, an educated Aleute, pays an annual visit to all the islands of the group, 
 and also to those of St. Paul and St. George. In former times these voyages were per 
 formed in bidarkas, five or six of which, lashed together like a raft and propelled by 
 oar and sail, he informs me made a safe but not always convenient means of convey 
 ance. During the remainder of the year resident or "second" priests on the various 
 islands attend to the pastoral duties". Latterly he has paid his annual visits in the 
 vessels of the Russian- American Fur Company, and still later, in those belonging to 
 Hutchinson, Kohl & Co. 
 
 EDUCATION. 
 
 I am not aware of any effort being made in Unalaska in this direction at present, 
 except in individual cases. The Russians had an established system for the education 
 of the Aleutes, but it has fallen into disuse. Most of them read and write, (Russian,) 
 and many are good arithmeticians. 
 
 The Aleutes generally learn very readily. One that I employed as house servant soon 
 acquired enough English to act as interpreter on many occasions. He also displayed 
 great skill in teaching me the rudiments of the Russian language. Give them to un 
 derstand American institutions, and they are better fitted to exercise all the rights of 
 American citizens than many who are admitted daily to citizenship. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 601 
 
 FURS. 
 
 The only articles of commerce at present obtained in and exported from Unalaska 
 are the skins of the sea-otter, fur-seal, and fox. Foxes, however, are not very plenti 
 ful, and are, I believe, of the uniform races. They are captured in winter. But few of 
 the fur-seal are taken, either. Some of them come into the bay every year during the 
 months of October and November and are captured. They have no "rookeries" or 
 landing places on this island, and when in the bay seem to have lost their reckoning 
 while on their way from St. Paul or St. George to no one knows where. The well- 
 known imperial fur of Russia, r the sea-otter, is the chief export of Unalaska, and, in fact, 
 of all the Aleutian isiands. These animals are captured during the summer and autumn. 
 Hunting parties of from ten to forty men go out in bidarkas and are gone from three 
 to eight wrecks. When a party comes up with an otter, if he is not asleep, (when he 
 is killed at once,) they dispose of their forces in such a manner as to keep him under 
 water as much as possible. This is effected by throwing darts (or spears) at him every 
 time he appears on the surface. These darts are so arranged that the point readily 
 loosens from the staff, but is still fast to it by a long strong cord. By this arrange 
 ment when the animal is struck the staff acts as a buoy when he dives and much em 
 barrasses his movements]; when at last he is so worried as to lie passively on the sur 
 face he is dispatched by a stroke on the head with a club. I know of one man of a 
 party of twenty who returned from a three weeks' excursion with fifteen skins, for 
 which he received from fifteen to fifty dollars coin each. He was one of their most 
 skillful hunters, and owing to the opposition in trade in Iliouliouk his twenty-one days' 
 work paid extremely well. 
 
 FISHERIES. 
 
 Fish of many kinds are abundant, the most important of which are the cod and sal 
 mon, but they have not yet become an article of commerce. 
 
 The Aleutes have only been accustomed to labor under the direction of white men, 
 and so far the whites have found the fur trade more profitable than the fisheries ; but 
 when the fur trade begins to be overdone, and the Aleutes Americanized, the fisheries 
 are bound to be developed, and to rival, if not surpass, those of the Atlantic coast. 
 
 " Salmon are the commonest of common food" with the Aleutes. At one draught of 
 the United States revenue cutter Lincoln's seine, while she lay in the harbor last June, 
 two thousand five hundred salmon and herrings were taken. The herrings of this place 
 are pronounced by judges to be of a superior quality, but I am told the salmon are 
 inferior to those found in many parts of the Territory. A party of Americans attempted 
 the cod fishing last summer, but owing to a lack of proper appliances, and the great 
 distance of the/' banks " from Iliouliouk, they abandoned the undertaking when they 
 had caught about two tons. The fish were excellent. 
 
 During the months of June, July and August whales of the variety known as the 
 humpback come into the harbor in great numbers. Nine were killed last summer by 
 the natives, in their frail bidarkas, with glass pointed lances. These points are 
 chipped from broken bottles, and the lance is made after the manner of the otter spear, 
 though somewhat heavier and minus the cord. They pull close to the whale and throw 
 the lance into him with great force, near his vitals ; the point quits the staff as soon 
 as it strikes, and they trust to the action of the whale's muscles to drive it home. 
 One that has been well struck will (to use a whaleman's expression) turn flukes in two 
 or three days. Besides those killed by the natives five more were taken by a part of 
 the crew of the barque Monticello, as she lay at anchor in the harbor, without a prac 
 tical whaler among them. Understand that certain parties in San Francisco intend 
 to put up try-works near Iliouliouk, next summer, and make a business of whale fishing 
 in the harbor. The enterprise will be a paying one. 
 
 HARBOR COMMERCE. 
 
 Iliouliouk, with the best harbor in Alaska Territory, and its not severe ciimate, lying 
 in the direct route from San Francisco to all the important islands, bays, and rivers of 
 the north, is the true commercial centre of the Territory. The commodious harbor, 
 sheltered on all sides by lofty mountains, affords a secure anchorage to all kinds of 
 shipping. At one time last summer eight vessels lay at anchor, and there was still 
 room for twice as many more. More custom house business was done there last sum 
 mer than all the rest of the ports of the Territory together. Every sea captain whom 
 I met there wondered that Sitka, which is one hundred and ten miles out of the line of 
 trade, and has no harbor at all, should be preferred before Iliouliouk as the port of 
 entry for the new collection district. 
 
 With many good wishes for the future prosperity of Iliouliouk and its inhabitants, 
 I am, sir, very respectfully, 
 
 L. A. LAGRANGE. 
 
 Hon. VINCENT COLYER, 
 
 United States Special Indian Commissioner. 
 
602 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS 
 
 THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 Mr. William H. Dall, in his account of these Aleutian Islands, says : 
 " These islands are merely the prolongation of the Alaskan range of mountains. 
 Many of them contain volcanic peaks, some still in a state of moderate activity. Slight 
 shocks of earthquake are common, but many years ha\>e elapsed since any material 
 damage was done to life or property by volcanic action. Most of the islands have har 
 bors, many of them safe and commodious. The soil is much of it rich, consisting of 
 vegetable mold and dark-colored clays, with here and there light calcareous loam, 
 formed by the decomposition of tertiary strata rich in fossils. In many places the 
 growth of sphagnum, indicating want of drainage, x>revails over the perennial grasses 
 natural to the soil, but the remedy is self-evident. 
 
 " On some places the soil is formed of decomposed volcanic products, such as ash and 
 pumice. Much of this is rich and productive. 
 
 " CLIMATE. 
 
 " The climate of the islands is moist and warm. The greatest cold recorded in five years 
 by Father Veniaminof in Unalaska was zero of Fahrenheit. This occurred only once. 
 The greatest height of the mercury was seventy-seven degrees of Fahrenheit. The 
 following table will show the range of the thermometer and the relative frequence 
 of good and bad weather : 
 
 " Thermometer. 
 
 Year. 
 
 7 a. m. 
 
 Ip. m. 
 
 9 p. m. 
 
 Extreme 
 heat. 
 
 Extreme 
 cold. 
 
 Range. 
 
 1830 
 
 35 
 
 38 
 
 34 
 
 77 
 
 o 
 
 77 
 
 1831 
 
 38 
 
 40 
 
 34 
 
 64 
 
 7 
 
 57 
 
 1832 
 
 39 
 
 42 
 
 38 
 
 77 
 
 7 
 
 70 
 
 1833 
 
 38 
 
 41 
 
 36 
 
 76 
 
 5 
 
 71 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Average five years 
 
 37 
 
 40.5 
 
 36 
 
 77 
 
 
 
 77 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 11 Weather, average of seven years. 
 
 
 Jan. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 Mar. 
 
 3 
 112 
 
 102 
 
 Apr. 
 
 4 
 104 
 
 102 
 
 May 
 
 2 
 105 
 
 104 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 2 
 107 
 
 101 
 
 Oct. 
 
 2 
 115 
 
 100 
 
 Xov. 
 
 3 
 
 88 
 
 119 
 
 Dec. 
 
 6 
 116 
 
 95 
 
 Total. 
 
 53 
 
 1263 
 
 1235 
 
 Days all clear 
 
 11 
 111 
 
 95 
 
 9 
 
 86 
 
 103 
 
 6 
 95 
 
 102 
 
 
 118 
 
 99 
 
 5 
 106 
 
 106 
 
 Days half clear, half cloudy 
 Days all cloundy or foggy, with 
 or without enow, rain, or hail. 
 
 " These observations were taken in Iliouliouk by Rev. Father Innocentius Veniaminof, 
 now or lately bishop of Kamschatka. He notices that, from October to April, the pre 
 valent winds are north and west ; and from April to October, south and west. The 
 thermometer is lowest in January and March, the highest in July and August. At this 
 point it may not be superfluous to insert, as a means of comparison, a few statistics in 
 regard to a very similar country, which has, however, been under cultivation for cen 
 turies. It will serve to show what human industry and careful application of experi 
 ence may do with a country colder and more barren and nearly as rainy as the Aleutian 
 and northern Sitkan districts of Alaska. I refer to the highlands of Scotland, and the 
 Hebrides, whose ' Scotch mists ' have become proverbial. 
 
 "Aiton* has ascribed the more rainy and cold climate of Scotland to the accumula 
 tions of sphagnum : ' Thirty-two and a half ounces of dry moss soil will retain without 
 fluidity eighteen ounces of water ; while thirty-nine ounces of the richest garden 
 mold will only retain eighteen and a half ounces. Moss is also more retentive of cold 
 than any other soil. Frost is often found to continue in deep mosses (in Scotland) 
 until after the middle of summer. Hence the effect of mossy accumulations in ren 
 dering the climate colder.' 
 
 " Dr. Graham, of Aberfoyle, referring to the western district of Scotland, says that 
 Ayrshire is very moist and' damp, with a mild and temperate climate. 
 
 " Renfrewshire is visited with frequent and heavy rains. Dumbartonshire has the 
 same character. Argyleshire is considered the most rainy county of Scotland. 
 
 " ' The vapors of the ocean are attracted by its lofty mountains, and the clouds dis 
 charge themselves in torrents on the valleys.' t ' The winters are for the most part 
 mild and temperate, but the summers are frequently rainy and cold. The climate of 
 the Zetland Isles resembles in most respects that of the Orkneys. Though the sky is 
 inclement and the air moist, it is far from unhealthy. The rain continues not only for 
 
 * Treatise on Peat-moss, &c. See Edinburgh Encyclopedia, p. 738, vol. xvi. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 603 
 
 hours but for days ; nay, eveu for weeks if the wind blow from the west,' &c. Substi 
 tute Alaska for Scotland, and the description would be equally accurate. 
 
 " Mean temperature of Inverness* 
 
 
 Year. 
 
 Winter. 
 
 Spring. 
 
 Summer. 
 
 Fall. 
 
 1821 
 
 47.83 
 
 39.59 
 
 44.93 
 
 55.34 
 
 49.90 
 
 1822 
 
 48. 02 
 
 39.44 
 
 47.22 
 
 57.79 
 
 47 59 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 "At Drymen, in Stirlingshire, the average for fourteen years was two hundred and 
 five days, more or less rainy, per annum ; the average on the island of Unalaska was 
 one hundred and fifty for seven years, according to Veniainiuof. The average rain-fall 
 in Stirlingshire was about forty-three inches; in Unalaska, was forty-lour inches, (ap 
 proximate.) 
 
 " Let us now examine the productions of this country, so nearly agreeing in temper 
 ature and rain-fall with what we know of the Aleutian district. It may reasonably 
 prove an approximate index to what time may bring to pass in our new Territory.! 
 
 " Agricultural statistics of the Highlands of Scotland, and islands, in 1854 and 1866. 
 
 
 Occupants. 
 
 Bushels of wheat. 
 
 Bushels of barley. 
 
 Bushels of oats. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 Argyle 
 Arran 
 
 1,620 
 152 
 504 
 740 
 262? 
 39 j 
 873 
 141 
 
 7,315 
 4,373 
 4,644 
 
 47, 573 
 
 180, 
 
 220, 179 
 10, 183 
 
 13, 394 
 
 4,688 
 5,607 
 37, 814 
 
 393 
 
 233, 018 
 
 8,885 
 
 56, 795 
 1,974 
 9,549 
 93, 100 
 
 5,727 
 
 264, 112 
 51, 936 
 
 46, 819 
 619 
 7,609 
 64, 957 
 
 2, 746 
 
 204, 417 
 35, 759 
 
 806, 395 
 49, 139 
 
 748, 215 
 437, 584 
 
 238, 728 
 
 620, 035 
 93, 637 
 
 705, 375 
 42, 154 
 613, 799 
 363, 176 
 
 258, 789 
 
 493, 042 
 80,136 
 
 Caithness 
 
 Inverness 
 
 Orkney 
 
 Zetland 
 
 Boss and Cromarty 
 
 Sutherland 
 
 Total 
 
 4,340 
 
 294, 447 
 
 303, 799 
 
 483, 193 
 
 362, 726 
 
 2, 993, 733 
 
 2, 557, 871 
 
 
 ! 
 
 Bushels of rye. 
 
 Bush, of beans 
 and peas. 
 
 Cwt. of turnips. 
 
 Cwt. of potatoes. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 Argyle 
 
 65,144 
 
 7,086 
 98, 924 
 23, 068 
 
 ( 108, 168 
 
 4,604 
 1,065 
 
 59, 093 
 
 4,655 
 56, 292 
 22, 206 
 
 105, 525 
 
 6,167 
 
 2,693 
 
 15, 147 
 4,403* 
 
 "2," 572" 
 342 
 
 8,273 
 
 21, 641 
 3,525 
 
 "5," 227" 
 
 84, 907 
 6,497 
 143, 416 
 
 84, 984 
 
 39, 230 
 
 160, 145 
 32, 052 
 
 103, 444 
 4,344 
 120, 787 
 73, 948 
 
 42, 536 
 
 163, 834 
 
 29, 767 
 
 10, 504 
 671 
 8,310 
 6,519 
 
 6,532 
 
 17, 281 
 1,540 
 
 26, 412 
 1,493 
 5, 931 
 12, 176 
 
 6, 261 
 
 20, 876 
 1,633 
 
 Arran 
 
 Caithness 
 
 __ 
 
 Inverness 
 
 Orkney 
 
 I 
 
 Zetland 
 
 Uoss and Cromarty 
 
 21, 834 
 114 
 
 52, 339 
 
 Sutherland 
 
 
 Total 
 
 308, 059 
 
 256, 631 
 
 30, 737 
 
 551, 231 
 
 528, 600 
 
 51, 357 
 
 74, 782 
 
 
 
 Acres of Swedish 
 turnips. 
 
 Acres of carrots. 
 
 Acres of cabbage. 
 
 Acres of flax. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 Argyle 
 
 2ft 
 22 
 28 
 10 
 
 33 
 10 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 1 
 4 
 
 17 
 4 
 
 "a 
 
 4 
 1 
 1 
 4 
 
 23 
 7 
 10 
 35 
 30 
 6 
 9 
 3 
 
 28 
 5 
 9 
 26 
 35 
 7 
 5 
 2 
 
 26 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 3 
 1 
 
 ^Arran 
 
 Caithness 
 
 Inverness 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 Orkney 
 
 Zetland i 
 
 Ross and Cromarty 
 Sutherland 
 
 23 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 Total 
 
 
 
 
 111 
 
 77 
 
 433 
 
 33 
 
 123 
 
 117 
 
 49J 
 
 36 
 
 
 * Lat. 57 30' Kadiak is precisely the same. 
 t These statistics are official, from tha Transactions of the Highland and Agricultural Society of 
 Scotland, vol. xv, 1856. 
 
604 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 
 Acres of grass and hay. 
 
 Horses. 
 
 Cows and 
 oxen. 
 
 Sheep. 
 
 . 
 Swine. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1855. 
 
 Argyle . . . 
 
 36, 151 
 3,002 
 19, 043 
 15, 313 
 4. 954 
 232 
 19,641 
 3,936 
 
 40, 303 
 
 2,588 
 18, 076 
 14, 226 
 8,297 
 535 
 20, 491 
 4,446 
 
 8,512 
 2,367 
 801 
 3,485 
 
 } 2,437{ 
 4,414 
 914 
 
 60, 378 
 3,010 
 14, 659 
 24, 061 
 8,128 
 1, 250 
 16,190 
 3, 642 
 
 814, 029 
 25, 630 
 60, 447 
 567, 694 
 10, 815 
 5,845 
 288, 015 
 200, 553 
 
 3.458 
 360 
 1,149 
 1,667 
 1,337 
 50 
 4,557 
 550 
 
 Arran 
 
 Caithness 
 
 Inverness .... 
 
 Orkney . . 
 
 Zetland 
 
 Ross and Cromarty 
 
 Sutherland 
 Total . 
 
 102, 272 
 
 108, 962 
 
 22, 930 
 
 131, 318 
 
 1, 973, 028 
 
 13,128 
 
 
 " It will be noted from these statistics that the quantity of potatoes and also the 
 quantity of wheat is small, when compared with the other root crops or cereals. 
 
 "The small Highland cattle are well known, and, like the small Siberian stock, 
 admirably suited to such a climate and country. They produce tender, well-flavored 
 beef, and extremely rich cream and butter. 
 
 " The climate of Scotland furnishes a very complete parallel with that of the Aleu 
 tian district of Alaska. The eastern coast, defended from the vapors of the Atlantic 
 currents by its sheltering mountains, is much drier, and the extremes of temperature 
 are greater than on the western coast and the islands, resembling the eastern part of 
 Cook's Inlet in this respect, and the interior of Alaska generally. 
 
 "Veniaminof states that in Unalaskathe greatest number of perfectly clear days are 
 in January, February, and June, and usually follow a northerly wind. The barometer 
 ranges from 27.415 inches to 29.437 inches, and, oh the average, is highest in December 
 and lowest in July ; rising with a north and falling with a south wind. 
 
 INHABITANTS. 
 
 " The inhabitants of these islands are the Aleutes ; true Esquimaux by descent but 
 altered by an insular life, isolated from other tribes, and changed by long contact with 
 the Russians. They all nominally belong to the Greek Catholic faith, and practice 
 the rites of that religion. Many can read and write the ecclesiastical or old Slavonic 
 characters, which they have been taught by the priests. 
 
 " They are faithful, docile, enduring, hardy, but lazy, phlegmatic, and great drunk 
 ards. They make good sailors but poor farmers, and chiefly occupy themselves in hunt 
 ing and fishing. There are, perhaps, in all, fifteen hundred of them, male and female ; 
 and it can be said, to their credit, that for honesty they far surpass the majority of 
 civilized communities. 
 
 VEGETATION. 
 
 " There is no timber of any kind larger than a shrub on these islands, but there 
 does not appear to be any good reason why trees, if properly planted and drained, 
 should not flourish. A few spruces were, in 1805, transplanted from Sitka, or Kadiak, 
 to Unalaska. They lived, but were not cared for, or the situation was unfavorable, 
 as they have increased very little in size since that time, according to Chamisso. 
 The grasses in this climate, warmer than that of the Youkon territory and drier than 
 the Sitkan district, attain an unwonted luxuriance. For example, Unalaska,* in the 
 vicinity of Captains' Harbor, abounds in grasses, with a climate better adapted for 
 haying than that of the coast of Oregon. The cattle were remarkably fat, and the 
 beef very tender and delicate ; rarely surpassed by any well-fed stock. Milk was 
 abundant. The good and available arable land lies chiefly near the coast, formed by 
 the meeting and mingling of the detritus from mountain and valley with the sea sand, 
 which formed a remarkably rich and genial soil, well suited for g'arden and root crop 
 culture. It occurs to us that many choice sunny hillsides here would produce good 
 crops under the thrifty hand of enterprise. They are already cleared for the plow. 
 Where grainlike grasses grow and mature well, it seems fair to infer that oats and 
 barley would thrive, provided they were fall-sown, like the native grasses. This is 
 abundantly verified by reference to the collections. Several of these grasses had 
 already (September) matured and cast their seed before we arrived, showing sufficient 
 length of season. Indeed no grain will yield more than half a crop of poor quality, 
 (on the Pacific slope,) when spring-sown, whether north or south. 
 
 * See report of Dr. A. Kellogg on the Botany of Alaska, H. Ex. Doc. 177, 40th Congress, second ses 
 sion, page 218. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 605 
 
 " Tlie Russians affirm, with, confirmation by later visitors, that potatoes are culti 
 vated in almost every Aleutian village ; and Veniaminof states that at the village in 
 Isanotsky Strait, they have raised them and preserved the seed for planting, since the 
 beginning of this century ; the inhabitants of this village by so doing having escaped 
 the effects of several severe famines, which visited their less provident and industrious 
 neighbors. 
 
 "Wild peas grow in great luxuriance near Unalaska Bay, and, according to Mr. 
 Davidson, might be advantageously cultivated. This species, the Lathyrus maritimus of 
 botanists, grows and flourishes as far north as latitude 64. The productions of all the 
 islands to the westward resemble those of Unalaska. 
 
 " In September, says Dr. Kellogg, the turnips here were large and of excellent quality ; 
 carrots, parsnips, and cabbages lacked careful attention, but were good. Wild parsnips 
 are abundant and edible through all these islands. 
 
 " From the reports of Dr. Kellogg and others there appears to be no doubt that cattle 
 can be advantageously kept in the Aleutian district, providing competent farmers will 
 take the matter in hand. Hogs were placed on one of the islands near Chamobour 
 Reef in 1825, and fattened on the wild parsnips and other native plants, multiplying 
 rapidly. They were afterwards destroyed." 
 
 APPENDIX R. 
 
 Report of a board of officers held at Sitka, Alaska, ~by virtue of the. following order, viz : 
 
 COURT-MARTIAL TRIAL OF JAMES C. PARKER FOR THE MURDER OF A CHILKAHT INDIAN. 
 
 " Special Order No. 22. 
 
 " HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF ALASKA, 
 
 " Sitka, Alaska Territory, April 1, 1869. 
 
 " A board of officers, to consist of, first, Brevet Lieutenant Colonel G. H. Weeks, cap 
 tain and assistant quartermaster United States Army ; second, Brevet Major W. H. 
 Bell, captain and commissary of subsistence United States Army ; third, Captain G. 
 H. A. Dimpfel, storekeeper United States Army, will assemble at the post of Sitka at 
 11 o'clock a. m. to-morrow, the 2d instant, or as soon thereafter as practicable, for the 
 purpose of investigating the circumstances attending the shooting of a Chilkaht Indian 
 at that post on or about the 17th day of March last. 
 
 " The board will determine, if possible, the parties doing the shooting, all the cir 
 cumstances which led to the same, and whether or not the act was justifiable. 
 
 " The board will examine all the witnesses under oath, and make a full report in wri 
 ting to these headquarters. 
 
 " By command of Brevet Major General Davis : 
 
 - ' "SAMUEL B. McINTIRE, 
 
 " l8t Limt. Second Artillery and Brevet Captain U.S. A., A. A. A. G." 
 
 SITKA, ALASKA TERRITORY, 
 
 April 2, 1869. 
 
 The board met pursuant to the above order. Present : first, Brevet Lieutenant Col 
 onel G. H. Weeks, captain and assistant quartermaster United States Army ; second, 
 Brevet Major W. H. Bell, captain and commissary of subsistance United States Army ; 
 third, Captain G. H. A. Dimpfel, military storekeeper United States Army. 
 
 Brevet Lieutenant Colonel W. H. DENNISON, commanding post, called, who having 
 heard the order convening the board read, was duly sworn. 
 
 By the board : 
 
 Question. State your name, rank, and station. Answer. William H. Dennison, brevet 
 lieutenant colonel United States Army, commanding post of Sitka, Alaska. 
 
 Q. Please state whether you know anything of the circumstances connected with 
 the shooting- O f a Chilkaht Indian at the post of Sitka on or about the 17th day of March, 
 1369.-A. I do. 
 
 Q. Please state all the circumstances of the case so far as you know. A. Between 
 two and three weeks ago, in the day, an Indian was shot at this post. I was in the 
 sutler's store at about 4 o'clock in the afternoon. Mr. Parker, who is employed in 
 the store, came in very much excited, and asked Mr. Southan where his rifle was. Mr. 
 Southan asked Mr. Parker to the purport as to whether he had seen the Indian. Mr. 
 Parker replied that he had. While Mr. Parker was looking around for the rifle and 
 changing his shoes, Mr. Southan told him two or three times not to take the rifle. 
 
606 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 Some one else sitting by the stove told Mr. Parker to take the pistol instead of the rifle. 
 Mr. Parker said the pistol was not sure enough ; "Iain going to take the rifle to bring 
 the Indian back." He took the Henry rifle, went out of the front door, and walked up 
 toward the Indian market-house, and came back in about ten minutes. Mr. Southan 
 askedhim if he had gotten the Indian. Mr. Parker replied that "that was a very hard 
 question to ask a man." Sitka Jack told me during that afternoon that it was a Chil- 
 kaht that was shot. 
 
 Q. Did you hear the report of the rifle ? A. I did not hear the report of the rifle 
 during the time of Mr. Parker's departure from the sutler's store. 
 
 Q, Did you understand, from the tenor of Mr. Parker's remarks and his manner in 
 the store, that he intended killing the Indian, or that he merely wished to use the 
 Henry rifle to intimidate the Indian with, so as to cause him to come back with him ? 
 A. From Mr. Parker's actions and language I was under the impression that he would 
 shoot the Indian if he got an opportunity. 
 
 Q. Do you know what was the original cause of Mr. Parker's excitement and appa 
 rent animosity against the Indian, which it has been said he was after with the Henry 
 rifle ? A. The cause, as I understood it at the time, was the fact that the Indian hav 
 ing broken a glass in the showcase at the sutler's store. 
 
 Q. Did you leave the store between the time Mr. Parker left the store with the Henry 
 rifle and the time he came back and made the reply to Mr. Southan's question as to 
 whether he (Mr. Parker) had got the Indian or not ? A. I did not. 
 
 Q. Were you in the store when the glass was broken in the showcase ? A. I was 
 not. 
 
 Q. Do you know whether any one but Mr. Parker was after the Indian who has been 
 reported to have been shot ? A. None to my knowledge. 
 
 Q. Did you as commanding officer take action in this case j if any, what ? A. I took 
 none more than to investigate and satisfy myself that no soldier of my command was 
 engaged in the shooting. 
 
 Q. Was the case ever reported officially to you ; if so, at what time ? A. The case 
 was never reported to me officially. 
 
 Mr. SOUTHAN was called, who having heard the order convening the court read, was 
 duly sworn. 
 
 Question. State your name, occupation, and residence. Answer. T. K. Southan, mer 
 chant, Sitka, Alaska. 
 
 Q. Please state whether you know anything of the circumstances connected with 
 the shooting of a Chilkaht Indian at the post of Sitka on or about the 17th of March, 
 1869. A. I do not ; I know nothing whatever about it. 
 
 Q. Please state if any damage was done at your store, on or about March 17, by an 
 Indian or Indians ; what such damage was, if any, and the amount of the same. A. 
 About that time I was absent from the store, and on coming in was told that an Indian 
 in attempting to steal had broken a showcase ; the actual damage to the showcase 
 was trifling. 
 
 Q. Was any action taken by you or any of your employe's with a view to punishment 
 of the Indian who did this damage? A. None by myself/ nor none by my employes, 
 with a view to punishment, that I am aware of. 
 
 Q. Is there a man in your employ by the name of Parker ? A. There is. 
 
 Q. Did Mr. Parker ask you for your Henry rifle at any time during the day on the 
 17th of March last, for the purpose of going after an Indian with it ? A. He did. 
 
 Q. What Indian did he say this was ? A. He said he was in pursuit of the Indian 
 who had broken the showcase. 
 
 Q. Did he, as you understood it, take the rifle with him for the purpose of punishing 
 the Indian when he found him, or in order to force him by intimidation to come back 
 with him ? A. I understood him to take the rifle for self-protection in making the 
 arrest, as he would probably be compelled to go to the village to make the arrest. 
 
 Q. Did Mr. Parker take the responsibility of making the arrest himself, or had he 
 instructions to do so. A. He took the responsibility himself. 
 
 Q. Do you know that Mr. Parker shot the Indian referred to? A. I do not. 
 
 Q. Were you out of the store from the time you say you came in and were told 
 about the showcase, until Mr. Parker came back to the store after going away with 
 the Henry rifle ? A. I was not. 
 
 Q. Did Mr. Parker tell you after he came back, that he had shot the Indian that he 
 was after ? A. He did not. 
 
 Q. If it was deemed proper to arrest this Indian, why was not the military authority 
 called upon to make the arrest ? A. I cannot answer the question. I do not know. 
 
 Q. Do you recollect who were in the store at the time Mr. Parker came after the 
 rifle ? A. Colonel Deunison, and, I think, Charles Kinkead. 
 
 The board adjourned at quarter past twelve o'clock p. m., to meet again at eleven 
 o'clock a. m. to-morrow, the 3d instant. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 607 
 
 SITKA, ALASKA TERRITORY, 
 
 April 3, 1869 11 o'clock a. m. 
 
 The board met pursuant to adjournment. Present : First, Brevet Lieutenant Colonel 
 G. H. Weeks; captain and assistant quartermaster United States Army; second, Brevet 
 Major W. H. Bell, captain and commissary subsistence United States Army; third, 
 Captain G. H. A. Dimpfel, military storekeeper United States Army. 
 
 The proceedings of yesterday having been read, Private JOHN McKENZiE, Company 
 F, Ninth Infantry, called, and having heard the order convening the board read, was 
 duly sworn. 
 
 Question. State your name, residence, and occupation. Answer. John McKenzie, 
 Company F, Ninth United States Infantry, Sitka, Alaska. 
 
 Q. Do you know anything of the circumstances connected with the shooting of a 
 Chilkaht Indian on or about the 17th of March, 1869 ? A. I don't know anything more 
 than I saw a man chasing an Indian with a gun. 
 
 Q. State all the circumstances of the case so far as you know. A. I saw a man about 
 half a month ago, about four o'clock in the afternoon James C. Parker. I saw him 
 chase the Indian, and heard him singing out to the sentinel to stop him, and saw him 
 come back and go up stairs, take his rifle and go out ; where to I don't know. 
 
 Q. Which direction did Mr. Parker take when you saw him go away with his rifle ? 
 A. Back towards the garden. 
 
 Q. Was any one with Parker at this time ? A. No, sir. 
 
 Q. Where did you next see Parker, and what were you about in the mean time ? A. 
 I saw him about twenty minutes afterward laying the foundation of a kitchen at the 
 time, 
 
 Q. Did you hear any shot fired after you saw Mr. Parker go out with his rifle ; and if 
 so, in what direction ? A. I heard a shot fired ; I thought it was outside the stockade 
 here. 
 
 Q. After hearing the shot, did you see Mr. Parker returning to the store, and did you 
 hear him make any remarks ? A. I saw him return to the store ; I heard him make no 
 remarks. 
 
 Q. Did Mr. Parker return to the store from the direction from which the rifle was 
 fired, and from what yon could judge of the distance from you to where the rifle was 
 fired, did sufficient time elapse for Mr. Parker to come from there to the store ? A. 
 Yes, I should judge so. 
 
 Q. Did you hear any expression of opinion from any one as to who shot the Indian ; 
 and if so, state who told you of it ? A. I first heard that a soldier, and then heard that 
 J. C. Parker shot the Indian, but can't tell who. 
 
 Q. Have your heard of any one who saw the shot fired that killed the Indian? A. I 
 have not. 
 
 Private JOHN FERRITER, Battery H, Second Artillery, called, who having heard the 
 order convening the board read, was duly sworn. 
 
 Question. State your name, rank, and station. Answer. John Ferriter, Battery H, 
 Second United States Artillery, Sitka, Alaska. 
 
 Q. State whether you know anything of the circumstances connected with the shoot 
 ing of a Chilkaht Indian at the post of Sitka on or about the 17th of March, 1869 ; and if 
 so, what are they ? A. I was sentinel on post over the magazine at about four o'clock 
 in the afternoon of the 17th of March last. While I was walking my post an Indian 
 ran past me toward the stockade, and Mr. Parker, an employe" of the post trader of the 
 post of Sitka, who was running after the Indian, called to me to stop the Indian. I called 
 to the Indian to stop, but he ran on, when Mr. Parker said let him go. He then went back 
 toward the store. Shortly after I heard two shots fired, apparently from the opposite 
 of the stockade, and in a few moments saw Mr. Parker coming from that direction. I 
 asked him if he had shot the Indian. He said, " O no, that would not do." I did not 
 see Mr. Parker go out with the rifle, but saw him come back ; neither did I hear any 
 one call out after the shots. I could not see from my post to where the shots appeared 
 to be fired. 
 
 ABEL G. TRIPP called, who having heard the order convening the board read, was 
 duly sworn. 
 
 Question. State your name, occupation, and residence. Answer. Abel G. Tripp, car 
 penter, Sitka, Alaska. 
 
 Q. State whether you know anything of the circumstances connected with the shoot 
 ing of a Chilkaht Indian at the post of Sitka on or about the 17th of March, 1869 ; and if 
 so, what are they ? A. On or about the 17th of March I was in the sutler's store ; was 
 shown the showcase, and was told an Indian had just broken it and run out. I went 
 ont, and on returning toward the store, a few minutes after, I saw Mr. Parker going off 
 toward the Indian market at a quick gait with a gun on his shoulder. Circumstances 
 
608 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 led me to think that he was after the Indian. I was anxious to see what the result 
 would be, and went into the store to learn, about ten or fifteen minutes afterward. I 
 asked him, " Jim. did you find him ?" He said " yes." Said I, " Why didn't you bring him 
 in?" He replied " he never did bring one in." I asked him, " What did you do ?" He 
 said, " I gave him a damned good kicking." That is all I know about the matter. 
 
 AChilkaht Indian, KATWOUSEEK, the brother of the Indian killed on or about the 17th 
 of March, 1869, being called made the following statement : 
 
 I heard shots fired and went into the sutler's store to find my brother, who I sup 
 posed might be there, as I wanted to purchase something ; not finding him there, I 
 went to the Indian village, where I found my brother lying in one of the Indian 
 houses, shot. He asked whether I had met a man with a red beard, and carrying a 
 rifle ? I said I had. I met him near the store coming in with a rifle on his shoulder, 
 sweating very much and blowing as if he had been running or had been exerting himself 
 very much. He said, that is the man who shot me. This man I recognized to be the man 
 who is in the sutler's store, Mr. Parker. I never went to the place where my brother 
 was shot, as there is a soldier on guard within plain sight, who I was afraid might 
 shoot me. My brother said that the shots were fired at him in rear of the Greek church 
 on the hill near the stockade, and that he had come there after having been pursued 
 by Mr. Parker, before he had any gun, to rest, and as he was sitting on some boards 
 resting, Mr. Parker came around the end of the church ; that he started to run and was 
 shot while again attempting to escape, and was struck at the first fire, the two other 
 shots missing. No Indians know more than this, but all of the Indians in the village 
 know as much ; as my brother told them all about it after he was shot. I did not see 
 the shot fired nor do I know of any one who did. 
 
 KATEESATIN, another Indian, corroborated the statement of Katwouseek. 
 
 Dr. A. H. HOFF, United States Army, called, who having heard the order convening 
 the board read, was duly sworn. 
 
 Question. State your name, rank, and station. Answer. Alexander H. Hoff, captain 
 and assistant surgeon United States Army, Sitka, Alaska Territory. 
 
 Q. Was there a Chilkaht Indian brought to your hospital (hospital of the post of Sitka) 
 wounded by gunshot some time in the month of March last f A. There was ; said to be 
 a Chilkaht. 
 
 Q. State as nearly as you can the date of said admission of Indian. A. About the 
 18th of the month ; by reference I can give you the exact date. 
 
 Q. Was this the only Indian suffering from gunshot wound admitted into the hospi 
 tal after the 17th day of March last up to the present time ? A. Yes. 
 
 Q. Did this Indian express to you, through any interpreter, how he was wounded I 
 A. He did not. 
 
 Q. What became of the wounded Indian ? A. He died on the 29th of March. 
 
 Q. Did he die from the effects of the gunshot wound ? A. He did. 
 
 Question. Do you know if this was the Indian said to have been shot at this post on 
 or about March 17th ? A. Yes ; I heard an Indian had been shot at this time and sup 
 posed this to be the one. 
 
 Private ALONZO RAMSEY, battery H, Second Artillery, called, who, having heard the 
 order convening the board read, was duly sworn. 
 
 Question. State your name, rank, and station. Answer. Alonzo Ramsey, battery H, 
 Second Artillery, Sitka, Alaska. 
 
 Q. State whether you know any of the circumstances connected with the shoot 
 ing of a Chilkaht Indian at the post of Sitka, on or about the 17th of March, 1869 ; 
 and if so, what are they ? A. Same day the Indian was shot, I saw the Indian running 
 through the garden out toward the magazine. Parker was running after him, or 
 appeared to be ; he hallooed to the sentinel at that post to stop him. The sentinel did 
 not stop him, and Parker came back to the sutler's store. The next I saw of Parker 
 he was going into the sutler's store ; the last I saw Parker was outside the stockade. 
 About fifteen minutes after he started off from there toward the lake ; he disappeared 
 behind the hill going in that direction ; a few minutes afterward I heard three shots 
 fired and saw the smoke. 
 
 Q. What called your attention to Mr. Parker outside of the stockade ? A. I happened 
 to be looking over that way. 
 
 Q. Where were you standing when you lost sight of Parker and heard the shots ? 
 A. I was standing just outside of the fence, inside of Major Bell's kitchen. 
 
 Q. Was the smoke that you saw to the right or left of the church ? A. To the right 
 of the church. 
 
 Q. Did you suppose from the direction of the smoke that Parker had discharged his 
 rifle ? A. Yes, sir. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 609 
 
 Q. Did you see Parker coming back to the post trader's after you heard the shots 
 referred to ? A. No, sir. 
 
 The board adjourned at a quarter past four o'clock p. m., to meet again on Monday 
 the 5th instant, at half past ten o'clock a. m. 
 
 Smu, ALASKA TERRITORY, 
 
 April 5, 186910.30 o'clock a. in. 
 
 The hoard met pursuant to adjournment. Present : 1st. Brevet Lieutenant Colonel 
 G. H. Weeks, captain and assistant quartermaster United States Army ; 2d. Brevet 
 Major W. H. Bell, captain and commissary subsistence United States Army ; 3d. Captain 
 G. H. A. Dimpfel, military storekeeper United States Army. 
 
 The proceedings of Saturday, April 3, 1869, having been read, Mr. CHARLES KINKEAD 
 called, who having heard the order convening the board read, was duly sworn : 
 
 Question. State your name, occupation, and residence. Answer. C. A. Kinkead, mer 
 chant, Sitka, Alaska. 
 
 Q. Do you know whether there was a showcase broken by an Indian in the sutler's 
 store of the post of Sitka on or about the 17th day of March last ? A. I do. 
 
 Q. Was it in your opinion broken accidentally, or for the purpose of stealing from it t 
 A. It was evidently broken intentionally, as an iron bar was sticking in it, inserted 
 between the wood and glass, and it must have taken some time to work at it and break 
 it. 
 
 Q. Do you know if it was done by the Indian who was afterward shot on the same 
 da-y ? A. No ; I can't tell you that. 
 The investigation here closed. 
 
 After a careful examination of the witnesses who have been called before the board, 
 the board has not been able to determine, further than through the inferences of cir 
 cumstantial evidence, who shot the Chilkaht Indian referred to in Special Order No. 22, 
 Headquarters Department of Alaska, April 1, 1869. 
 
 This circumstantial evidence points to an employe" of the post trader, Mr. Parker, as 
 the person who did the shooting ; the breaking of a 'showcase for the purpose of stealing 
 being, as far as the board cau'determne, the circumstance which led to the shooting, 
 and the board is of the opinion that if there were no more reasons for shooting than 
 those brought out in evidence, that the act was not justifiable. 
 
 GEO. H. WEEKS, 
 
 Bvt. Lieut. Col and Ass't Quartermaster U. S. A. 
 W. H. BELL, 
 
 Bvt. Maj. and C. S. U. S. A. 
 GEO. H. A. DIMPFEL, 
 Captain and M. S. K. U. S. A. 
 
 There being no further business before it, the board adjourned sine die. 
 
 GEO. H. WEEKS, 
 
 Bvt. Lieut. Col. and Astft Quartermaster U. S. A. 
 W. H. BELL, 
 
 Bvt. Maj. and C. S. U. S. A. 
 G. H. A. DIMPFEL, 
 
 Captain and M. S. K. 
 
 APPENDIX S. 
 UNRELIABILITY OF THE CHARTS OF THE SEAS OF ALASKA. 
 
 ON BOARD THE STEAMER NEWBERN, 
 
 MERRY ISLAND, ALASKA TERRITORY, 
 
 November 1, 1869. 
 
 SIR : I find you using charts of three different nationalities for your guidance on the 
 coast of Alaska : American, English, and Russian. 
 
 Which of these three is the most reliable ? Answer. The English, though these are 
 taken from Vancouver's survey and from the Russian charts. 
 
 I have an American chart issued from the Hydrographic Office of Washington, called 
 sheet No. 2, published in 1868, purporting to be " from the most recent British and 
 American surveys," but I find it to be incorrect, as for example : in latitude 59 26', 
 longitude 146 05' west, there is an island named " Mi ddleton" on the English Admiralty 
 chart of the Arctic Ocean published in 1853, and on the Russian chart, published in 
 1847, which is wholly omitted on the American chart ; the island is about ten miles 
 long and live miles wide, and lay directly in our course from an anchorage south of 
 Montague Island to Cape Edgecombe, Sitka Harbor. On my recent voyage if- I had 
 39 T A 
 
610 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 had the corresponding sheet, with Sitka on it, I should have used the American chart, 
 thinking it was published officially by my government in 1868 it was to be relied on. 
 If I had done so I should have lost the vessel, as the island lays low and the night 
 was dark. \ 
 
 Queston. Are the Russian or English charts sufficiently accurate for safe navigation 
 in these seas ? Answer. They are not as accurate as other charts on well-surveyed 
 coasts. With caution they can be used successfully. The English charts are chiefly 
 taken from Vancouver's survey in 1792, corrected from the Russian charts. 
 
 W. FREEMAN, JR., 
 
 Commanding U. S. Quartermaster Steamer Newbern. 
 W. FREEMAN, JR., 
 
 Captain U. S. Quartermaster Steamer Newbern. 
 
 APPENDIX T. 
 
 THE RESOURCES OF ALASKA, 
 
 The Hon. William S. Dodge, ex-mayor of Sitka, said in a recent speech delivered by 
 him at that place : It is a needless task to detail or expatiate on the resources of Alaska, 
 either in its minerals, fisheries, furs, or timber. It is enough to say that the whole 
 Territory is one vast forest of yellow cedar, pine, hemlock, and spruce, the greatest 
 portion of largest growth, and almost everywhere accessible for commercial purposes. 
 The fur trade alone has been for more than half a century a prolific source of wealth 
 to the Russian- American Company, and its importance is now more than ever manifest 
 when we remember the fact that upward of fifty vessels have been engaged in it the 
 present year. And it is still more manifest when we recall the excitement which has 
 agitated the people of San Francisco, through its board of trade, and Congress, in con 
 tentious which have arisen ont of the protective legislation to be given the fur-seal 
 interests on the islands of St. Paul and St. George. The commerce in this source of 
 revenue alone is estimated from two hundred to five hundred thousand dollars a year. 
 
 The fisheries are immense. Nowhere on the face of the globe are they excelled in 
 number, variety, or quality. The fiords of Norway, the banks of Newfoundland, or the 
 shores of Labrador otter no comparison. Those great staples of commerce and main 
 stays of subsistence, the cod, the halibut, the salmon, and the herring, are on this coast 
 myriads. The fishing stations already established in this Territory, the immense quan 
 tities caught by the Russians and the Indians, demonstrate how abundant is the sal 
 mon. And lately additional testimony comes to us from numerous persons affirming 
 as solemn truth that at Cook's Inlet the salmon average in weight sixty pounds, and 
 many of them weigh one hundred and twenty pounds. From two to four fill a barrel. 
 And Mr. T. G. Murphy only last week brought down from there on the Newbern a 
 barrel full, containing only four. This must satisfy the most incredulous. 
 
 San Francisco, the great metropolis of the Pacific coast, imitating New York, has 
 become Argus-eyed and Briserian-armed, and is rapidly drawing into itself the wealth 
 of this Territory. Her capitalists are already engaged in the ice and fur trades. This 
 present season she has had more than fifty fishing boats off Behring Straits in the 
 cod fishery, and all of them have returned home or to the Sandwich Islands, loaded 
 down. So plenty are they that three and four are often caught on one hook. The 
 halibut and the herring fisheries have not been entered into ; but the testimony of 
 their prolificness is ample, and the statements made by reliable men are astonishing. 
 And speaking of the cod fisheries, one fact is important to be remembered. The banks 
 extending all along the coast from Kadiak to Behring Straits and to the frozen ocean are 
 shallow as compared with those of Newfoundland, the water on the Alaska banks aver 
 aging only irom twenty to fifty fathoms, while those of the former average from sixty to 
 one hundred and twenty fathoms. And here is another fact, just reported to me, which 
 I cannot forbear mentioning. At Kadiak, Henry Richard and Thomas Bache, fishermen, 
 caught alone, with hook and line, within the last six months, twenty-two thousand 
 cod. This statement is undeniable, and it speaks a volume. And now I dismiss this 
 branch of the subject, remarking merely that the whole coast of Alaska to Portland 
 Canal in the south to the Polar Ocean in the north, embracing, including the islands, 
 twenty-six thousand miles of sea frontage, is one grand reservoir of fish, sufficient to 
 employ thousands of men in supplying the demand constantly growing, and soon to 
 increase immensely, by the peopling of Washington Territory, Oregon, and California, 
 and the embryo States now upbuilding all along the great continental highway, from 
 the west to the east, as well as the Sandwich Islands, China, and Japan. 
 
 Of minerals, I can only say that, from the earliest history of this Territory to the 
 present day, the existence of gold, silver, copper, iron, marble and coal has been con 
 stantly attested. We have the undeniable authority of eminent scientific officials and 
 the statements of strangers temporarily visiting this coast. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 611 
 
 Since the Territory has been within American jurisdiction, we have occular proof of 
 the existence of all these minerals, and that, too, in almost every part of the country. 
 Close to Sitka are mountains of marble, and good specimens of cinnabar have been 
 found here. Back of Sitka, at Kake and Kootznov, are coal mines, no one knows how 
 extensive. At Tarkow and Chilkaht the coal crops out in abundance, and to the west 
 ward of Sitka it is the testimony of all the traders that coal can be found almost at 
 any place one chooses to land. 
 
 Almost every week miners or Indians bring in samples of gold. It has come from 
 Prince William's Land, the Stikine, the Chilkaht, the Tarkow, and the Copper rivers, 
 and from Cook's Inlet and Kenery. 
 
 Professor Davidson, of the Coast Survey, while at Chilkaht making observations of the 
 eclipse, on the 7th of last August, found that the needle to his compass pointed con 
 stantly wrong, and soon learned the fact that he was near a mountain of iron some two 
 thousand feet high, which attracted the magnet wherever used, from its base to sum 
 mit. And a further examination showed that this mountain was only one of a range 
 similar in character, and extending fully thirty miles ; and, as if nature had anticipated 
 its uses to man, a coal mine was found near by. 
 
 And so I might continue, but I must hasten to a close. Howevei, before leaving 
 this portion of my remarks, I desire to give you an exhibit of our commerce since the 
 18th of October, 1867, as furnished by the custom authorities at this port. You will re 
 member that it does not by any means give a full statement, as, since the passage of the 
 custom act of July 28, 1868, vessels bound to the westward have been permitted to clear 
 direct from ports below, to Kadiak, Cook's Inlet, and Unalaska. Therefore, a traffic 
 very considerable in value is omitted. 
 
 Number of vessels arrived from date of cession to August 6, 1869. 
 
 From 
 
 Vessels. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Victoria 
 
 28 
 
 4 495 
 
 Portland, Oregon 
 
 2 
 
 390 
 
 Port Town send * 
 
 2 
 
 48 
 
 San Francisco ... 
 
 :?3 
 
 6 726 
 
 Sandwich Islands 
 
 3 
 
 828 
 
 Asiatic coast *. 
 
 3 
 
 852 
 
 
 
 
 Total 
 
 71 
 
 13 339 
 
 
 
 
 Number of vessels cleared from date of cession to August 6, 1869. 
 
 For 
 
 Vessels. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Victoria, British Columbia .... .... 
 
 26 
 
 6,778 
 
 San Francisco 
 
 25 
 
 8 939 
 
 London 
 
 2 
 
 2,638 
 
 Port Townsend 
 
 5 
 
 2,170 
 
 Portland, Oregon 
 
 c> 
 
 391 
 
 Asiatic coast 
 
 5 
 
 941 
 
 Whaling 
 
 
 514 
 
 
 
 
 Total .. 
 
 67 
 
 22, 371 
 
 
 
 
 Imports, from October, 1867, to August, 1869, $34,672 99. Exports, same time, $582,756 32. 
 Furs exported, as near as can be ascertained, $450,000. 
 
 The records of the custom-house show that more than three-fourths of this commerce 
 transpired during the first year of our occupation of the country. 
 
 APPENDIX U. 
 
 The Chamber of Commerce of San Frandsco on the fur-seal and other commercial interests in 
 
 Alaska Territory. 
 
 The Chamber met last evening in their room in the Merchants' Exchange building. 
 
 President Otis in the chair. , 
 
 Mr. Wise, chairman of the Committee on the Alaska Fur Trade, reported as follows : 
 " The committee appointed by the Chamber of Commerce, on the 17th of February, 1869, 
 
 to consider what legislation by Congress is necessary to protect the fur-seal trade of the 
 
612 REPORT OP THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 islands within the Territory of Alaska, have had the same under consideration, and beg 
 leave to submit the following report : 
 
 " Your committee find that the Russian-American Fur Company reported to have taken, 
 during the years 1866 and 1867, from the islands of Unalaska, Omega, St. Michael, 
 Atkha, Alton, Kadiak, and Cook's Inlet, 7,970 muskrats, 558 lynx, 6,738 martens, 226 
 bears, 18,476 beavers, 6,738 foxes, 2,765 land otters, and 3,905 sea-otters, which we havo 
 valued at $350,000. They took from the islands of St. Paul arid St. George 137,943 fur- 
 seals and 3,657 foxes, which we have also valued at $900,000, based upon the admission 
 of those who are largely interested in the fur trade, and upon the recent sales in the 
 European markets. We find, then, the total value of the furs taken by the Russian- 
 American Fur Company from the islands named during the years 1866 and 1867 to bo 
 $1,250,000, an annual average of $625,000 ; besides, the seal oil, in the opinion of your 
 committee, is worth, at the very lowest estimate, $75,000 per annum after leaving seals 
 enough to supply food for the natives, to say nothing aboiit the very rich fertilizing 
 deposits from the decomposed bones and flesh of the seals for more than forty years. 
 
 "We have been informed by more disinterested testimony that these furs are worth 
 more money, but wo have been guided by those who are interested, and you will ob 
 serve that, under the most favorable aspect, this is a very important trade, which can 
 doubtless bo increased under American enterprise and fair competition without dimin 
 ishing the number of the fur-bearing animals. 
 
 " The fur trade is the only wealth of the country at present available, and should, 
 therefore, be carefully guarded, and left open to all American vessels, under proper re 
 strictions, to encourage the development of other interests. The fisheries, for instance, 
 are very extensive, and a voyage for furs, if unsuccessful, might prove profitable on the 
 fishing banks. The fur trade is the stimulant to go there, and once there other inter 
 ests would attract attention. But without some inducement ship-masters would hardly 
 undertake the hazards of such a tedious voyage, and often a v,ery perilous one. 
 
 "The protection of the fur-seals and other fur-bearing animals can be afforded with 
 out any such monopoly as is proposed by the bill reported to have passed Congress. 
 
 " So far as we have been able to learn, fur-seals only require special protection, though 
 some provision is necessary to prevent the use of fire-arms in taking sea-otters, and to 
 define the seasons for taking any and all fur-bearing animals. Fire-arms must not be 
 used either in killing seals, for they will leave and not return ; nor will it do to kill 
 them near their rookeries, where the carcass would be exposed, for the same result 
 would follow. They must be driven in the cool f the evening to the interior, and 
 taken with clubs the following morning, with as little noise as possible. 
 
 " The seals arrive at the islands early in the spring, and should not be interfered witli 
 until the end of the breeding season the last of summer or the beginning of fall. 
 The sealing season should, therefore, commence in September, and continue until they 
 leave, early in November. The only legislation, therefore, necessary is to define the months 
 in which seals may be taken, to prohibit the use of fire-arms on the islands or upon, 
 the waters adjacent, and to prohibit the killing of females at any season of the year 
 and the young under one year old. 
 
 " With such good regulations and restrictions we can see 110 good reason for limiting 
 the number of seals that may be taken annually to one hundred thousand, (100,000,) as 
 proposed. The limit creates a monopoly, which appears to bo the object of the bill 
 alluded to. If more than one hundred thousand ( 100,000) males over one year old can be 
 taken, why not allow it, for we cannot see how it would diminish the seals. Besides, 
 it is much easier to enforce a law protecting the young and the females with compe 
 tition than without it. An inspector, with only one company to deal with, would be 
 less apt to attend strictly to his duties than if he had the eye of a large fleet of vessels 
 upon him. If competition were allowed, all would be interested in having the law 
 complied with ; but, monopolize the trade, and every vessel not interested, visiting 
 those waters, would have to be watched, which would be almost impossible, and would 
 use ill-got means, if any opportunity offered, of taking furs without sparing either the 
 young or the females. If there were no opportunity, how easy it would bo to fire guns 
 in the vicinity of the islands to frighten away the 'seals ; and who doubts the result ? 
 
 "The seals originally frequented the islands of Behring and Copper, still under the 
 jurisdiction of Russia, and were driven from them to the islands of St. Paul and St. 
 George by some such action as we have indicated, and might return or go elsewhere if 
 disturbed in their present rookeries. 
 
 "The bill before Congress (reported to have become a law) prohibits the use of fire 
 arms, and killing females, and males less than one year old, under regulations to be 
 made by the Secretary of the Treasury. But it provides that the Secretary shall divida 
 the island of St. Paul into three sections and St. George into one section, and that the 
 exclusive right of taking seals from either section for a term of years shall be sold to 
 the highest bidder, designating, too, what class of bidders shall have the rights to com 
 pete for this trade, viz : managing owners of American vessels, and only those whom 
 the Secretary may deem competent; to fulfill their engagements. Now, it is well known 
 that there are four organized companies, and that one or all of them have made con- 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OP INDIAN AFFAIRS. 613 
 
 tracts with the natives for a period of three years. The Secretary would be virtually 
 limited, under the terms of the bill, to consider their bids, because they would be 
 deemed more competent to carry out their contracts. 
 
 " We have ascertained, howe ver, that Americans can easily learn in a very short time 
 how to take seals as well as the natives ; but if the bill in question becomes a law, the 
 Secretary would very likely look to existing contracts with the natives, and an act of 
 Congress would virtually give the monopoly of the fur trade of the islands of Alaska 
 to a single company, or, what we rather suspect, four companies in combination. The 
 effect would be to render the trade of no value to San Francisco or any other American 
 port. It would give a few individuals the control of the market of furs who could, at 
 pleasure, increase the cost to consumers. 
 
 " The manufacturing monopoly has heretofore been enjoyed by parties in England, 
 through a permanent arrangement made many years ago with the Russian-American 
 Fur Company, to purchase all their fur-seal skins taken from year to year. This same 
 condition would very likely continue with the lessees of the government, both on 
 account of their superior skill in manufacturing, acquired by long experience through 
 the arrangement alluded to, and because monopolists can afford to pay a higher price 
 for the skins. The skins would then, in all likelihood, be shipped directly to England 
 or to this port only in transit, and no opportunity offered to the enterprise and skill of 
 cur citizens to engage in the manufacture of such luxuries, upon which enormous profits 
 are always realized. We must submit to have them exported and to pay foreign labor 
 & large profit upon all we consume. 
 
 "We have been told that we have not the skill to manufacture fur-seal skins in thii 
 country, which can only be exported to find a market. The fact is, we have had no 
 opportunity to acquire skill during the monopoly enjoyed in England through the ar 
 rangement with the Russian- American Fur Company. The same result will again fol 
 low if the government leases the islands, and no market will be found in the United 
 States, and we will be obliged to import manufactured furs from England at a heavy 
 cost and expense, besides the addition of our import duty. 
 
 " View this as we may, we must feel the ill effects of such a policy ; and for what pur 
 pose ? To enrich a few and keep back the development of the country for an indefinite 
 period. The only inducement now to go there is the interest in question ; and, if open 
 to competition, many vessels will be fitted out at this and other ports, and the furs in 
 return exposed for sale in our home markets, and eventually the entire and very im 
 portant trade of that country will be enjoyed by our own citizens. We are, therefore, 
 deeply interested in securing the passage of a law allowing public competition, which 
 can be done under instructions amply protecting the seals. 
 
 '' The Territory of Alaska was acquired by purchase at a cost of $7,000,000 to the fed 
 eral government, and we do not deem it just to our citizens generally to give a single 
 company, or any number of companies, the control of this trade, valued at $700,000 
 annually, which, in our judgment, can easily be increased double the amount. This 
 trade is really the key to the whole country, and controls the fur trade on the main 
 land, which is also very valuable, and about which we have said nothing. The object 
 of our government should be to develop the country, and to encourage our citizens to 
 go there, by all means in its power ; and the unrestricted competition in this trade would 
 best promote that object: any other policy would retard or prevent all enterprises con 
 nected with Alaska. We recommend, then, the abolition of all restrictions not neces 
 sary to protect the young and the female seals ; and with this end in view we submit, 
 as a part of this report, the draught of a bill which will afford ample protection at the 
 same time open trade to American enterprise and industry. 
 
 " We regret, in conclusion, that our limited time would not allow an extended inquiry 
 into the undeveloped resources of Alaska ; though, from the incidental knowledge 
 which we have acquired in our investigations relative to the fur trade of our islands, 
 we are persuaded that its resources are far more extensive and important than gener 
 ally believed. We think that the government ought to extend its aid to encourage 
 emigration ; and we therefore recommend the Chamber to evoke Congress to establish, 
 at an early day, a territorial government over that country. And we would also ad 
 vise the appointment of another committee to collect information, and to report as soon 
 as convenient, for the purpose of attracting public attention to a territory which, if 
 properly developed, will prove to bo a very valuable acquisition." 
 
 The report is signed by the committee, consisting of J. H. Wise, C. T. Fay. L. Ever- 
 ding, 1. P. Rankin, and Washington Bartlett. The report was received and the com 
 mittee discharged. 
 
614 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 APPENDIX V. 
 
 THE FUR TRADE AT SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO, GAL., October 21, 1869. 
 
 DEAR SIR : In reply to your note, with inclosed letter from the Hon. George S. Bout- 
 well, Secretary of the Treasury, at Washington, I will try and give you full and reliable 
 information on the subject, to the best of my knowledge and belief. 
 
 The collection of furs at Alaska and the Aleutian Islands so far has been very lim 
 ited, on account of the scarcity of population the necessities of the natives being few 
 and easily supplied. This immense territory, extending from (the 56th to the 76th par 
 allel) Fort Wrangel to Kotzebue Sound, is so full of fur-bearing animals that, in the 
 course of a few short years, an enterprising white population will find profitable em 
 ployment in developing its great and, at the present, unknown wealth. The fur trade 
 of this territory, when properly prosecuted by competent parties, will yield boundless 
 wealth, and will amount to millions upon millions in the aggregate, increasing from 
 year to year. 
 
 Answer to question No. 1. a. Fur seals salted at St. George's and St. Paul's islands have 
 been entirely under the control of Messrs. Hutchinson, Kohl & Co. (A very limited 
 number came down in the hands of other traders.) They, Hutcbinson, Kohl & Co., 
 paying to the natives twenty to forty cents per skin in trade that is, in groceries and 
 provisions. The season 1869, no definite price can be quoted. Outside traders are 
 excluded from these islands ; the only parties permitted on these islands are the said 
 Hutchinson, Kohl & Co. and Williams, Havens & Co. 
 
 1). Sea otter are paid for in trade, (groceries, provisions, &c., at the traders' prices,) 
 at from twenty, thirty, and in some instances forty, dollars, per skin. 
 
 Answer to question No. 2. a. Fur-seals proper classification: wigs, middlings, 
 emails, large pups, middling pups, small pups are not bought or sold in San Fran 
 cisco as per classification, but in bulk or lot at so much per skin, on an average. 
 This classification is for shipping, none being manufactured here. 
 
 6. Sea otter proper classification : large prime, silver-pointed, $40, $50, and $60 
 per skin, gold prices; large prime, without silver points, $35 and $40 per skin, 
 gold prices ; middlings, $30 and $25 per skin, gold prices ; good cubs, $15 and $20 per 
 ekin, gold prices ; pups, 35 to 50 cents per skin, gold prices for shipping purposes 
 entirely, none being used here. 
 
 Ansiver to question No. 3. a. Fur-seals prices realized at London, the only market 
 for fur seals : wigs, about 40 shillings sterling per skin ; middlings, 36 to 40 shillings 
 sterling per skin ; smalls, 30 to 33 shillings sterling per skin ; large pups, 25 to 30 
 shillings sterling per skin ; small pups, 15 to 20 shillings sterling per skin ; average 
 of different shipments, 20. 21 to 29 shillings 6 pence sterling, being the highest prices 
 paid in London. 
 
 Exportation from 1868 to 1869. 
 
 Shipped by Hutchinson , Kohl & Co. to London ........................... 190, 000 
 
 Shipped by Williams, Havens & Co. to London, via Honolulu and Bremen. 41,000 
 
 Shipped by Captain R. Waterman to London ............................. 10, 000 
 
 Shipped by Adolph Muller & E. S. Tibbey to London ...................... 10, 100 
 
 Shipped by A. Waterman & Co. to London ................................ 11, 000 
 
 Shipped by Adolph Muller to London ..................................... 1,600 
 
 Shipped by Russian-American Ice Co. to London ............. . ............. 700 
 
 Shipped by Hntchinson, Kohl & Co. to London, S gSffiStaS'Sd we" I *' 
 Shipped by CaptainBurnstoLondon, \ fh^ef Got 14, 1^ \ 
 
 Total shipment from this port ....................................... 269, 400 
 
 Dry fur-seals from 6ape Flattery are full as good as those from St. Paul's and St' 
 George's islands, and were bought here at $4, $4 50, $5, gold coin. 
 
 N. B. Fur-seals have since declined in Europe considerably, 15 shillings sterling 
 being the outside limit for buying. 
 
 &. In March, 1869, 548 sea otter were sold and realized at the London sales, on an av 
 erage, $35 gold coin per skin. In September, same year, 1,065 sea-otter skins were 
 offered for sale, but most of them were withdrawn on account of the low prices ruling* 
 Sea otter are very low at present ; $20 to $25, gold, per skin is already a large price to 
 pay for it. The Old Russian Fur Company have sold the balance of sea-otter on hand 
 (7,000 skins) at St. Petersburg, and in consequence the Russian government has enacted. 
 a law prohibiting the importation of sea otters ; hence the decline in London and Leip 
 zig. Since the above-mentioned time 750 sea otter have arrived by the steamer Alex 
 ander, and also 150 more in the hands of others, all to be shipped to London and 
 Leipzig. 
 
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS. 615 
 
 c. General assortment of furs from Alaska aud the Aleutian islands : 
 
 Average value per akin in 
 San Francisco, in gold. 
 
 Beaver, very few manufactured here, inest all sent to Europe $1 00 to $2 00 
 
 Marten, very few manufactured here, most all sent to Europe 2 00 to 6 00 
 
 Mink, very few manufactured here, most all sent to Europe 1 00 to 1 50 
 
 Lynx, very few manufactured here, most all sent to Europe 1 00 to 1 50 
 
 Bears, very few manufactured here, most all sent to Europe 3 00 to 6 00 
 
 White fox, very few manufactured here, most all sent to Europe 1 00 to 2 00 
 
 Land otter, all shipped to Europe 1 00 to 3 50 
 
 Fisher, all shipped to Europe 2 00 to 4 00 
 
 Silver fox, all shipped to Europe 5 00 to 25 00 
 
 Cross fox, all shipped to Europe 2 00 to 4 00 
 
 Red fox, all shipped to Europe 1 00 to 1 50 
 
 Hair-seals, all shipped to Europe 25 to 50 
 
 I remain yours, most respectfully, 
 
 ADOLPH MtJLLER. 
 J. T. McLEAN, Esq. 
 
 APPENDIX V. 1. 
 The fur trade at Sltka. 
 
 Owing to the lively competition that has sprung up since the " transfer," all kinds 
 of furs press very closely upon San Francisco figures, if not even a shade above. Most 
 of the peltries offered here are of an inferior quality, but as the opinion prevails that 
 anything coming from Sitka must be good, a ready sale is found for all kinds. The 
 natives have learned many " Yankee tricks," and resort to all of them to effect a trade- 
 patching, coloring, sewing parts of two skins together. The following may be given 
 as the current rates here, according to the quality : 
 
 Marten from $1 25 to $5 00 
 
 Mink from 25 to 1 50 
 
 Ermine from 
 
 Fur-seal from 
 
 Sea otter from 
 
 Land otter from 1 50 to 3 50 
 
 Cross fox from 2 00 to 5 00 
 
 Redfoxfrom 75 to 150 
 
 Silver fox from 5 00 to 15 00 
 
 Black bear from 2 00 to 6 00 
 
 Bro from . 1 50 to 4 00 
 
 MOUTH OF THE TACCOO AND CHILKAHT COUNTRY. 
 
 It is very well known that the fur trade of that locality is the richest throughout this 
 Territory, and we consider it to be to the interest of the country to develop its wealth. 
 Reports are current that gold has been found along the Taccoo, but the Indians would 
 not allow the parties who left here to ascend the river. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company appear to manage things far better than we do, and in 
 spire more confidence, from their general treatment of the Indians. 
 
 The Chilkaht country is one of the most interesting and important portions of this 
 Territory. The Indians are very numerous, and set down as a very warlike tribe. 
 There is a very large trading business carried on there, chiefly in furs and skins ; the 
 market, however, is not accessible to every one. 
 
 APPENDIX W. 
 
 The Editor of the Alaska Times says : 
 
 That Alaska abounds in resources of vast wealth we are satisfied. This Territory is 
 no barren country, nor is its climate as uninviting as it has been represented. 
 
 OUR RESOURCES. They are numerous ; 1st. Our forests of timber are not perhaps 
 to be surpassed in the world. 
 
 2d. Our fisheries are not to be equalled in any country on the globe. 
 
 3d. Our fur and seal skin trade and facilities cannot be surpassed or equalled out- 
 
616 REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF INDIAN AFFAIRS, 
 
 side of Alaska. It is true that the Russian-American Company were behind the age m 
 the art of modern inventions. They knew but little about the implements used by our 
 American fishermen, trappers, or miners ; yet, in their rude way of managing their 
 affairs, the Russian- American Company sent millions of dollars from Alaska to the dif 
 ferent parts of the world. 
 
 In inventions, in implements, in competition, and we might add, of every under 
 taking, they were far behind the times. 
 
 APPENDIX X. 
 
 LAW OF CONGRESS CONCERNING THE FUR-SEALS. 
 
 SEC. C. And be it further enacted, That it shall be unlawful for any person or persons 
 to kill any otter, rniuk, marten, sable, or fur-seal, or other fur-bearing animal, within 
 the limits qf said Territory, or in the waters thereof; and any person guilty thereof 
 ^hall, for each offense, on conviction, be fined in any sum not less than two hundred 
 dollars nor more than one thousand, or imprisoned not more than six months, or both, 
 at the discretion of the court ; and all vessels, their tackle, apparel, furniture, and cargo 
 found engaged in the violation of this act shall be forfeited : Provided, That the Secre 
 tary of the Treasury shall have power to authorize the killing of any of such mink, 
 marten, sable, or other fur-bearing animals, except fur-seals, under such regulations a 
 he may prescribe ; and it shall be the duty of the said Secretary to prevent the killing 
 of any fur-seal, and to provide for the execution of the provisions of this section until 
 it shall be otherwise provided by law : Provided, That no special privileges shall be 
 granted under this act. 
 
 APPENDIX Z. 
 
 Census of the Indian village (Stikine) at Wrangel, Alask 
 
 Houses. 
 
 8 
 H 
 
 "Women. 
 
 OJ 
 
 1 
 
 
 O 
 
 Houses. 
 
 i 
 a 
 
 Women. 
 
 ft 
 
 | 
 
 O 
 
 First . 
 
 ^ 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 Seventeenth 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 Second 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 Eighteenth 
 
 5 
 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 Third 
 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 Nineteenth 
 
 ~) 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 [Fourth 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 I 
 
 Twentieth 
 
 4 
 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 Fifth 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Twenty-first 
 
 
 r t 
 
 1- 
 
 
 
 Sixth 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Twenty-second .... 
 
 4 
 
 ' 3 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Seventh 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 Twenty-third 
 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 Eighth 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 Twenty-fourth 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Ninth 
 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Twenty-fifth 
 
 H 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 Tenth 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Twenty-sixth 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 Eleventh 
 
 
 5 
 
 o 
 
 4 
 
 Twenty-seventh 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 Twelfth 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Twenty-eighth 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 'A 
 
 Thirteenth 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Twentv-niuth 
 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Fourteenth 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 Thirtieth 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 Fifteenth 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 Thirty-first 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 Sixteenth 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 Thirty-second 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Total 
 
 159 
 
 183 
 
 77 
 
 89 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Men 159 
 
 Women and children 349 
 
 Total... 508 
 

..