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 33acton t in &oxiolk. 
 
 BY CHARLES GREEN. 
 
 NORWICH : 
 
 JOSIAH FLETCHER, UPPER HAYMARKET; 
 LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO. 
 
 1842.
 
 When the proposal for the present work was issued, 
 announcing its price at 4s., it was not the author's intention 
 to give any engravings ; but, feeling convinced that the work 
 would be more complete with illustrations, he has been in- 
 duced to give those which now accompany it ; and in order to 
 defray the expense, ventures to charge an additional sixpence, 
 which he trusts will meet with the general approbation of the 
 subscribers.
 
 
 P RE FACE. 
 
 The following pages have been drawn up in compliance with the 
 suggestions of many friends, who wished to be possessed of a 
 succinct and authentic history of the village of Bacton to which 
 they refer. This history the writer has endeavoured to give, as 
 far as time and materials would allow. 
 
 The notices of Bacton and the Priory of Broomholme hitherto 
 published have been somewhat beyond the reach of many indi- 
 viduals, being generally distributed through various voluminous 
 and expensive works. From these works the writer has gleaned 
 whatever appears to be of importance ; and these gleanings, com- 
 bined with original materials, he trusts, will be useful in bringing 
 further into public notice a village, hitherto but little known, and 
 antiquities but too little valued. 
 
 The Geology of this district has been glanced at but partially 
 by Mr. Lyell ; and to the statements of that gentleman the 
 writer feels happy in being able to make some interesting addi- 
 tions, which he hopes may, at a future period, serve as the basis 
 of a more extended work. 
 
 The illustrations are all original, and were drawn expressly for 
 this work. The sketch of the Section of Cliffs from Happisburgh 
 to Trimmingham is given to show the immediate connection of 
 the chalk with the superimposed strata ; evidencing the probabi- 
 lity of its being the immediate bed on which the strata rests. 
 
 2976;
 
 IV PREFACE. 
 
 No apology is made for the space taken up in the appendix 
 with the History of the Cluniac Monks. The writer did not 
 know where to abridge, and therefore thought it best to give the 
 facts entire. 
 
 The theory inserted in the Geological portion of the work 
 must not be considered as perfect ; it is given as open to amend- 
 ment, and future investigations may possibly overthrow the con- 
 jectures which, with great caution, have now been formed. 
 
 To the kindness of many friends the author feels himself in- 
 debted, to whom, through this medium, he wishes to return his 
 sincere thanks; particularly to Charles Lyell, Esq., President of 
 the Geological Society, to Professor Owen of the Royal College 
 of Surgeons, to Professor Mann of Buxton, and numerous others 
 who have kindly assisted in the compilation of this work. 
 
 Bacton, 1842.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 HISTORY 
 
 Invasion and seizures of Edric, the Dane — Division of the village 
 at the Conquest — Ravages of the plague — Present estimate 
 of land — Number of inhabitants — Parishes included in the 
 village — Fairs — Trade — Tumulus — Description of the church 
 — Font — List of vicars — Encroachments of the sea upon the 
 village — Mansions in the outskirts — Keswic Page 1 — 19 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 BUOOMHOLME PRIORY. 
 
 Founded for Clunial monks — Its famous cross — Pilgrimages — 
 Henry HI visits the priory — Miracles — Controversy respecting 
 the election of a prior — List of priors — Number of monks 
 inhabiting the priory — Its dissolution — Description of the 
 ruins — Arms of the priory — Architecture — Dimensions of the 
 various buildings — Privileges and grants . . Page 20 — 49 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 GEOLOGY. 
 
 Description of the cliffs — Division of the strata — Chalk the im- 
 mediate bed on which the strata rests — Origin of the term till 
 — Fossils of I he till — Crag— Fossils of the crag— Position of 
 lacustrine beds -Fossils — Animal allied to anoplotherium —
 
 VI CONTENTS. 
 
 Opinion of Professor Owen respecting the animal — Description 
 of the bones — Saurian — Opinion of Agassiz upon the Mun- 
 desley fish — The prevalence of lignite — Blue clay and red 
 gravel- — Containing everywhere the same fossils — Mammalian 
 remains found in them — Changes the cliffs have undergone — 
 Opinions of Woodward — Taylor — Lyell, &c. — Inferences 
 drawn from these opinions Page 50 — 86' 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 (A.) 
 
 Page 
 
 History of Clunial monks 87 
 
 (B.) 
 
 Examination of the opinions of Speed and Weaver respect- 
 ing two monasteries at Broomholme 96 
 
 (c.) 
 Original deed relating to Broomholme 98
 
 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 The Right Honorable Lord Wodehouse 
 
 The Right Honorable Lady Wodehouse 
 
 The Right Reverend Dr. Stanley, Lord Bishop of Norwich, 
 President of the Linnjean Society 
 
 The Reverend Dr. Buckland, F.R.S., and Professor of Mine- 
 ralogy and Geology in the University of Oxford 
 
 The Reverend Adam Sedgwick, M.A., F.R.S., Woodwardian 
 Professor in the University of Cambridge 
 
 Charles Lyell, Esq., F.R.S., President of the Geological So- 
 ciety, 2 Copies 
 
 Dawson Turner, Esq. A.M., F.R.S., F.L.S., &c. &c. 
 
 Sir William J. Hooker, K.H. 
 
 Sir Francis Palgrave, K.H. 
 
 The Reverend William Jacobson, M. A., Vice Principal of 
 Magdalen Hall, Oxford 
 
 Edward Charlesworth, Esq., F.G.S., and Editor of the Maga- 
 zine of Natural History, London 
 
 Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton, Bart., 2 Copies 
 
 Adams Rev. R., Edingthorpe 
 Aggs Miss, Norwich 
 Allen Mr., Buxton 
 Alexander Captain, South wold 
 Alexander Rev. John, Norwich 
 Atkinson Rev. Hen., A.M., Bac- 
 
 ton, 7 copies 
 Atkinson Robt, Esq., Walcote 
 Athill Mr. A. J., Ruston 
 Auf'rere Rev. G. J., Ridlington 
 Aufrere Rev. P., Seaming 
 
 Barton Mr., Threxton 
 Barclay Capt. R. N., Mundesley 
 Barnard J. II., Esq., Norwich 
 Balls II. J., Esq., Norwich 
 Barcham Mr. Ezra, Edingthorpe 
 Barcham Mr. Jed., Antingham 
 Banyer Mr. Robinson, Ridlington 
 Bacon N., Esq. North Walsham 
 Bensley Mr. A. M., North Wals- 
 ham 
 Bignold Thomas, Esq., Norwich, 
 
 ■'> copies 
 Birkheck II. Esq., F.G.S., Cromer 
 Bond Mr., Bacton 
 Bowerbank J. S., Esq., F.G.S., 
 
 London 
 Blake Rev. William .lex. Lammas 
 Brightwell Thomas, Esq., I'.L.S., 
 Norwich 
 
 Brightwen Mrs., Yarmouth 
 Brightwen John, Esq., Yarmouth, 
 
 5 copies 
 Blyth Mr., North Walsham 
 Brown Rev. Jno., North Walsham 
 Brown John, Esq., F.G.S., Stan- 
 way, Suffolk 
 Brock Rev. Wm., Norwich 
 Bush Mr. George, Swardeston 
 Buxton Edm. C, Esq., 2 copies 
 Bulver Rev. James 
 
 Cannon Mr. James, Bacton 
 
 Cannon Mr. Benjamin, Bacton 
 
 Clarke Mr., Bacton 
 
 Clowes Rev. T., A.M., Norwich 
 
 Clowes Mr., Neatishead 
 
 Cook Mr., Horstead 
 
 Cooke Mr., Honing 
 
 Cooke Mr. William, Stalham 
 
 Cooke Rev. S., Knapton 
 
 Cooke Thos., Esq., F.R.S., Croy- 
 don, Surrey, 2 copies 
 
 Collings Mr. J. Wm., Bacton, 
 2 copies 
 
 Colk Wm., Esq., North Walsham 
 
 Colk Mr., Aylsham 
 
 Coleby J., Esq., North Walsham 
 
 Cozens John, Esq., Sprowston 
 
 Cdiiliiifj licv. Samuel, London 
 
 Collyer Rev. .1. 15., Hackford
 
 Vlll 
 
 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 Colls D. C, Esq., R.N., Norwich 
 Copeman Mr., Norwich 
 Cowell Mr. Edward, Mildenhall 
 Cubitt Mr. W., Bacton, 2 copies 
 Cubitt Mrs. Wm., Bacton 
 Cubitt Mr. Thomas, Bacton 
 Cubitt Mr. John, Bacton 
 Cubitt Mr. Thomas, Ridlington 
 Cubitt Mr. Robert, Ridlington 
 Cubitt Mr. Thomas, Witton 
 Cubitt Mr. George, Norwich 
 Cubitt Mr. G., North Walsham 
 Cubitt Mr. Robert, Waxham 
 Cubitt Mr., Neatishead, 2 copies 
 Culley Mr. Roger, Bacton 
 distance Rev. John, Blickling 
 Cross Mr. G., North Walsham 
 
 Debana Miss, North Walsham 
 Dibole Mr. J. W., Yarmouth 
 Docking Wm., Esq., North Wals- 
 ham 
 Doyle Mrs. Elizabeth, Crimples- 
 
 ham Hall 
 Durrant Mr. Wm., Sandringham 
 
 Easy Mr. J., North Walsham 
 Elliott Mrs., Buxton Surrey 
 Ewing W. C, Esq., Eaton 
 
 Farquier Rev. G. L. W., A.M., 
 
 Bacton, 2 copies 
 Fenn Mr. M., Stalham 
 Fish Mr., Hevingham' 
 Fitch Mr. Robert, Norwich 
 Flavel Rev. J. W., Ridlington 
 Foster Sampson, Esq., Norwich 
 Forster Wm., Esq., Norwich 
 
 Gardiner Mrs., North Walsham 
 Gaze Mr., Mundesley 
 Gann Mr. J. W., London 
 Gee Mr., Bacton, 2 copies 
 Gedge Mr. R., North Walsham 
 Gedge Mr. R., Honing 
 Geldart Joseph, Esq., Norwich 
 Geldart Mr. Thomas, Norwich 
 Geldart Mr. Robert, Norwich 
 Girling Mr. John, Bacton 
 Gibson C. M., Esq., Norwich 
 Glover, The Ven. Archdeacon 
 Gostling Mr., Horstead 
 Gotts Miss, Bacton 
 Gotts Mr. John. Bacton 
 
 Grigson Rev. William, Saham 
 Groves Mr., Northwold 
 Gunn Rev. John, Irstead 
 Gurney John Jos., Esq., Earlham 
 Gurney Miss Anna, Northrepps, 
 
 4 copies 
 Gurney Hudson, Esq., 2 copies 
 Gurney J. II., Esq., 2 copies 
 
 Hastings Mr., Mundesley 
 Hanbury Mrs., Poles, Herts, 2 
 
 copies 
 Harris Mr. Charing 
 Hall Mr. T. B., Coggeshall 
 Hewitt William, Esq., Stalham 
 Hewitt Mr. J. W., Walcote 
 Higgins W. M., Esq., F.G.S., 
 
 London 
 Hickling Mrs., Cawston 
 Howes Mr. Wm., Happisburgh 
 Howes Mr. J., Mundesley 
 Hoare Samuel, Esq. 
 Hust Mrs., North Walsham 
 
 Image Rev. T., Whepstead, Suf- 
 folk 
 
 Johnson Goddard, Esq., Marsham 
 Jackson Lieut., R.N., Bacton 
 Jarvis Rev. George, Buxton 
 Juniper Mr., Mundesley 
 
 Kirk Mr., Paston 
 
 King Mr., Norwich 
 
 King Captain, R.N., Cromer 
 
 Keed Mr. James, Lynn 
 
 Larter Mr., Mundesley 
 Laver Mr. James, London 
 Lloyd George, Esq., M.D., Lea- 
 mington, 2 copies 
 Love Mr. W., North Walsham 
 Lonsdale Mr., London 
 Lubbock Edw., Esq., M.D., Nor- 
 wich, 4 copies 
 
 Mason Mr., Bacton 
 Marshall Mr., Bacton 
 Marshall Mr. Wm., Bacton 
 Maris Mr. Henry, Bacton 
 Mattison Mr. W., Dilham 
 Mackrel Mr., London 
 Mann R. J., Esq., Buxton 
 Marsham Robert, Esq., Stratton
 
 LIST OK SUBSCRIBE Us. 
 
 IX 
 
 Marsh Rev.. William 
 
 Morse Miss Emily, Norwich, 2 
 
 copies 
 Morse Arthur, Esq., Swaffham 
 Mug-ridge Edward, Esq., Lynn 
 Mills Mr. R., Norwich 
 
 Nash Wm., Esq., Witham, Essex 
 
 Nash Mrs., Bacton 
 
 Norfolk and Norwich Literary 
 
 Institution 
 Nurse Mr., Lessingham 
 
 Palmer Mr., Bacton 
 Partridge Mrs., North Walsham 
 Paroissien Rev. Challis, Harding- 
 ham, 2 copies 
 PestellMiss, Bacton 
 Pollock Mr., London 
 Pratt Mr. James, Yarmouth 
 Press Mr. J. 
 Primrose Mrs., Trunch 
 Pull Mrs., East Ruston 
 Purdy Mrs., Tunstead 
 
 Riches Mr., Walcote 
 Rix Mr. B., Yarmouth 
 Rose C. B., Esq., F.G.S., Swaff- 
 ham 
 Rudd Ash, Esq., East Ruston 
 
 Sadler Mr. Richard, North Wals- 
 ham 
 Sayer Mr., Wramplingham 
 Seeker Miss, Aylsham Burgh 
 Sewell Mr. P., Brighton 
 Silcock Mr. C, East Ruston 
 Silcock Mr. J., Stalham 
 Sihley Mr., London 
 Simons Mr. S., Cromer 
 Shipley Mr., North Walsham 
 Sheppard M., Esq., North Wals- 
 ham, 2 copies 
 Shuckhurgh Rev. R., Aldbro' 
 Smith Mr. G., North Walsham 
 Smith Mr. G., Witton 
 
 Smith Jas., Esq., F.G.S., Malta 
 Spratt Mr. W., East Ruston 
 Springhall Mr. John, Norwich 
 Springhall Mr. James, Norwich 
 Spelman Wm., Esq., Norwich 
 Spurdens Rev. Wm., North Wals- 
 ham 
 Sturgess Mr. Wm., Bacton 
 Stranshum Miss, North Walsham 
 Stark Wm., Esq., Norwich 
 Squires Mr. John, Ingham 
 Swann Mrs. M., Worstead 
 
 Taylor J. O., Esq., Norwich 
 Taylor Mr. H., Colchester 
 Thomas Mrs., Trunch 
 Trivett Mr., North Walsham 
 Turner Dawson W., Esq., M.A., 
 
 Oxford 
 Turner Mr. Jos., Witton, 2 copies 
 Turner Miss, Yarmouth 
 Turner Mr. W. H. N., Norwich 
 
 Watts Mr., Witton 
 Warnes T., Esq., Trimmingham 
 West Charles John, Esq. 
 Wells Mr. W. H., Dilham 
 White Mr. E., North Walshim 
 Wiseman Mrs., Bacton 
 Wiseman Miss, Trunch 
 Wiseman W., Esq., R.N., Bacton 
 W T igham J. B., Esq., Norwich, 2 
 
 copies 
 Wilkinson Rev. W. T., North 
 
 Walsham 
 Wiseman Mr. Sam., Norwich, 3 
 
 copies 
 Woodrowe Mr. J., North Wals- 
 ham 
 Woodward Mr. S. P., London 
 Wood S. V., Esq., F.G.S., London 
 Wodehouse Hon. and Rev. Ar- 
 
 mine 
 Woolsey Miss, North Walsham 
 Wright Mrs., Bacton, 3 copies 
 Wright J., Esq., Buxton, 5 copies
 
 HISTORY OF BACTON. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 EARLY HISTORY. 
 
 Bacton, or Backton, written in Doomsday, Bake- 
 tnna, is a parish of considerable extent in the 
 hundred of Tunstead, in the county of Norfolk, 
 bounded on the east by Walcote and Happisburgh, 
 on the south by Witton, on the west by Eding- 
 thorpe and Paston, and on the north by the German 
 ocean ; it is distant four miles and a half from the 
 town of North Walsham, twenty-seven from Yar- 
 mouth, seventeen from Norwich, and twelve from 
 Cromer. 
 
 This village has long been celebrated for its ex- 
 tensive Norman ruins, called Broomholme Priory, 
 or Bacton Abbey. 
 
 But little appears to have been known of this place 
 previous to the Norman Conquest. During the time 
 of the Romans, it remained probably in a wild and 
 uncultivated state. In a map published by the 
 Society of Antiquaries, entitled Roman Norfolk, 
 mention is made of Happisburgh as a Roman 
 
 B
 
 2 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 station, but no notice whatever is taken of Bacton, 
 or any of the villages at present existing between 
 that place and the town of Cromer. It seems, 
 however, to have been in a state of cultivation 
 during the period of the Saxons, and came early 
 into the possession of Edric, a noted Dane, who, 
 in the reign of King Edward III, invaded and 
 seized on this and other lands in the neighbour- 
 hood, and to some distance around, including the 
 villages of Brunstead, Eccles, Happisburgh, Ing- 
 ham, Waxham, Hickling, and Walcote, with lord- 
 ships at Sutton and Blakeney, and two manors in 
 Stalham. 
 
 At the Conquest, Edric was deprived of them by 
 William, who distributed them among his barons. 
 This Edric was a Thane, or nobleman of the first 
 rank, and is supposed to have borne some relation 
 to Edric the Traitor of King Edmund, surnamed 
 Ironside. After the custom of the Normans he 
 assumed the name of Edric de Laxfield, from a 
 town of the name of Laxfield, in Suffolk. William 
 Earl Warren is mentioned as having had in Bacton, 
 in the Confessor's reign, sixteen acres valued at 
 2s. The abbot of St. Bennet had the Soc, which 
 went with the lordship of Paston, and the Bishop 
 of Norwich's manor of Paston extended into it. 
 No statement is given of its extent during the time 
 it was held by Edric, nor of its population ; but 
 the possibility is, the inhabitants w T ere tenants, who 
 held the lands under him as lord. William the
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTOX. 3 
 
 Conqueror, on his accession to the crown of Eng- 
 land, at the general distribution of lands by him, 
 made a grant of this village and manor to Robert 
 Mallet, one of his principal barons, and lord of 
 the honor of Eye, in Suffolk, who held it as a 
 tenant of the crown, or tenant in chief, as the 
 barons were then called ; previously to this it was 
 held of this honor by Rodbert. In 1121 it was in 
 the possession of William de Bachetuna, who pro- 
 bably derived his name from the parish. The 
 first description we have of the extent of the 
 village of Bacton is in Doomsday book, where it 
 is mentioned as consisting of lands, &c. valued at 
 110s., and held by fourteen free men at 40s. It was 
 one leuca long, and one broad, and paid 15d. gelt. 
 Very soon after the Conquest the ancient family of 
 De Glanville became enfeoffed of it by the Lord 
 Mallet. On the death of Geoffrey de Glanville in 
 the beginning of the reign of Henry III, the 
 inheritance was left to his five sisters and co- 
 heiresses, among whom this lordship was divided. 
 Upon the marriage of four of these sisters, it was 
 separated into four distinct manors, viz. the Earl of 
 Cornwall's, Huntingfield's, Latimer's, and Peche's. 
 Agnes became the wife of Baldwin, a Norman, on 
 or before whose death Henry III seized on his 
 part, forming the Earl of Cornwall's and gave it to 
 his brother Richard, Earl of Cornwall. Edmund, 
 his son, inherited it in the 15th of Edward I, and 
 had wreck at sea, assize of bread and beer, frank- 
 
 b 2
 
 4 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 pledge, free warren, waif, &c. and a gallows. On 
 his death, 28th Edward I, it was extended to 
 £\2 IDs. 7|d., and was enjoyed by Margaret his 
 widow, on whose decease it came to the crown, and 
 was granted 6th Edward II to Broomholme priory. 
 Emma married John de Gray, by whom she had a 
 daughter, Emma, who by marriage brought the 
 part, called Hnntingfield's manor, to William de 
 Huntingfield, of Huntingfield, in Suffolk. This 
 William de Huntingfield, 15th of King John, was 
 sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, and an accountant 
 with Alberic de Vere, Earl of Oxford, &c. for the 
 customs of Norfolk and Suffolk. 
 
 In 1271 Sir Roger de Huntingfield was lord, 
 and had a chapel in his manor house here, which 
 the prior and convent of Broomholme had granted 
 him leave to erect. Every tenant of the crown 
 was bound, whenever the king went to war, to 
 furnish an armed soldier, and to maintain him in 
 the field forty days for each knight's fee that he 
 possessed. The said Sir Roger de Huntingfield 
 having sent to the assistance of Henry III, in 
 Gascoign, And. de Gayzi his knight, who performed 
 laudable service, the sheriff of Suffolk had an order 
 that the demand of sixty marks, due from him to 
 the king, should be excused. 
 
 In the 3rd of Edward III Roger de Huntingfield 
 held of Queen Isabel half a see in Racton, and also 
 half a see in the honor of Eye in Suffolk ; and 
 in the 17th of that king Richard de Keleshull
 
 AM) GEOLOGY OF 11 ACTON. 
 
 conveyed by tine to Sir Thomas de Sywardeby the 
 moiety of several messuages, land, See. with £4 
 rent in Bacton, Broomholme, Paston, &c. to be 
 enjoyed after the death of Alianore, widow of Roger 
 de Huntingfield, by Richard for life, the remainder 
 to Sir Thomas and his heirs by Elizabeth, sister 
 and co-heiress of Roger. 
 
 John de Norwich, citizen and draper of London, 
 39th of Henry III, conveyed the moiety of Hunt- 
 ingfield hall, in Bacton, to John de Somerton ; 
 after this it was conveyed to John de Pieshale, &c. 
 
 36th Henry VI, Elizabeth late wife of William de 
 Sywardeby of Sywardeby, in Yorkshire, released to 
 Agnes Paston, and John Paston, Esq. her son, the 
 manor of Huntingfield hall and all the lands late 
 Roger de Huntingfield's and William her husband's 
 here, in W'itton, &c. and in the said year Jeffrey 
 Pigot and Margaret his wife, daughter and co- 
 heiress of William Sywardeby conveyed to them 
 their right. In the family of Paston it continued, 
 Sir William Paston dying seized of it in 1611. 
 Basilia, the third daughter and co-heiress of Jeffrey 
 de Glanville, left a daughter and heiress, who 
 brought her interest in Latimer's hall to William 
 de Bovvill. From the Bovvills it came to the 
 Latimers, and Thomas de Latimer was lord 9th 
 Edward III. 
 
 34th Edward III, Thomas de Wingfield and 
 Margaret his wife conveyed the manor of Latimer's 
 ball to William Attcfen, with the homages and
 
 6 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 services of divers persons. 6th Henry VI, Thomas 
 Attefen conveyed it to William Paston, Esq., Peter 
 Savage, and Christiana his wife, widow of Hugh 
 Attefen then holding it for life. 
 
 Elizabeth, fourth daughter and co-heiress, brought 
 by marriage her part, called Peche's hall to Almaric 
 Peche ; Thomas Peche, his descendant, was living 
 5th Edward II. Julian, the fifth daughter and 
 co-heiress, is said to have lived a single life; but 
 it appears that she married Simon Peche, a rela- 
 tion to Almaric. His heirs were seized of a manor 
 in Bacton, held of the honor of Eye by the service 
 of sixpence at the end of every thirty-two weeks, 
 and valued at £7 12s. 8d. per annum. This came 
 to the Pastons by the marriage of Cecily, daughter 
 and heiress of Sir Simon Peche and Julian his 
 wife, with Walter de Paston ; the late Earl of 
 Yarmouth died possessed of it. In 1603 the 
 manors of Paston, Peche, Latimers, and Hunting- 
 field were valued in the whole at <£238 13s. 7d. 
 with 172 combs 2 bushels of barley, &c. and out 
 of these there were £3 9s. lOfd. per annum to 
 the manor of Gimingham by Sir William Paston. 
 
 24th Henry III, Jeffrey, son of Bartholomew de 
 Glanville, conveyed by fine to Thomas de Baketon 
 free lands in Bacton. 
 
 From the appearance of their having been much 
 wood at the west end of the parish, the mention 
 made of a wood here in olden time may be correct. 
 A spot, for some time bearing the appellation of
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 7 
 
 Bacton Wood, has lately been reduced to arable 
 land, but there still remains some brushwood be- 
 tween Bacton and Witton heath. 
 
 By the number of burials registered in the church 
 book from 16*25 — 1650, the plague appears to have 
 made extensive ravages in the village. 
 
 PRESENT STATE. 
 
 The present estimate of land in the village of 
 Bacton is about 1600 acres, which is very rich and 
 fertile. 
 
 In 1811 the number of inhabitants was stated at 
 314. 
 
 Inhabited houses ... 57 
 
 Uninhabited .... 3 
 
 60 
 In 1821 the inhabitants amounted to 388, and 
 in 1829 the census was 498. 
 In 1841 they were as follows : 
 
 Male 240 
 
 Female ..... 273 
 
 513 
 
 making an increase of only fifteen since 1829. 
 The number of houses was 121, being sixty-one 
 added since the year 1811. 
 
 In the parish are included the several hamlets of 
 Bacton, Bacton Green, Keswic, and Broomholme, 
 distant about a quarter of a mile from each other.
 
 8 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 A narrow part extends three miles and a half to 
 the south-west, where there are two farms called 
 the Wood, also a mill known as Bacton Wood 
 Mill. Lord Wodehouse is the principal land 
 owner and improprietor. 
 
 Two fairs are mentioned as annually held here ; 
 one on the first Monday in August, the other Nov. 
 30. This last has become obsolete, and the other 
 scarcely merits the name, being chiefly a pleasure 
 mart. Bacton Green, about a quarter of a mile 
 east of the church, is a fishing hamlet near the 
 beach, having three curing houses, with six large 
 and several small fishing boats. By the discovery 
 of extensive oyster beds in the offing in 1821, the 
 prosperity of this hamlet was greatlv increased ; 
 but these beds have for some years been exhausted. 
 The principal trade at present carried on is in 
 crabs, shrimps, herrings, and other fish, which are 
 caught by the fishermen in great quantities, and 
 despatched to various markets. 
 
 On the cliff is a station house for a coast guard, 
 consisting of a commander and five men ; and in 
 consequence of the dangerous nature of sands, 
 called Happisburgh sands, a life boat has been 
 purchased by the inhabitants. 
 
 In a field belonging to Mr. Thomas Cubitt, at 
 the north-west of the village, is a hill which has 
 excited some interest from its supposed resemblance 
 to a tumulus or sepulchral mound ; tradition asserts 
 that, in olden time, it was the scite of a wind mill,
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 9 
 
 to which purpose the tumuli of our ancestors have 
 not unfrequently heen applied ; from this circum- 
 stance it has derived the name of Mill Hill. 
 Again, it has been said, that the materials of which 
 the mound is composed were brought from Bacton 
 Green, and that it was raised in its present form 
 for cannon, at the time the priory suffered a siege ; 
 but being found too near for service, and informa- 
 tion having been conveyed to the besiegers by an 
 old woman, who had been an inmate of the abbey, 
 that the weakest part of the building was to the 
 west, they removed their cannon to a place about 
 a quarter of a mile further off, called Butt Hill, 
 whence the abbey suffered some injury and was 
 taken. To the right of this hill is a lane known, 
 at the present day, as Blood Slat Lane, so called 
 from a tradition that the party belonging to the 
 abbey and the besiegers met here, when a desperate 
 engagement took place, and blood flowed in such 
 profusion, that the parties fought in it up to their 
 ancles ; but during the troublous times when this 
 priory existed in its glory, the probability is that 
 in one of the numerous rebellions, some fugitives 
 might have taken shelter there, which coming to 
 the knowledge of the assailants, occasioned a 
 skirmish near this place, and gave rise to the 
 before-mentioned tradition. Human bones and 
 cannon balls have been occasionally disinterred 
 whilst plowing up the ground in this direction. 
 The more probable conjectures, however, are, either
 
 JO THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 that the mound was raised originally for the purpose 
 of erecting a cross upon it, that mariners passing 
 along the coast might see it, and pay their devo- 
 tions, or that it was a Roman tumulus, or barrow, 
 as the Romans had a station at Happisburgh, not 
 more than two miles and a half distant. 
 
 The Rev. Henry Atkinson, A.M., has a residence 
 at the west end of the village, called the Grove, 
 built in the old style, and is of about two centuries 
 standing ; it is encompassed with groups of lofty 
 trees, which completely secure the house from the 
 sea breezes during the winter months. At the 
 back is a well arranged garden, from which is a 
 fine prospect of the sea. 
 
 THE CHURCH. 
 
 Bacton Church, which stands on an elevation 
 above the village, about a quarter of a mile from 
 the sea, is a neat single pile of squared flint and 
 free stone, covered with lead, having a thatched 
 chancel, adorned with a lofty square tower, with 
 one bell. From the style of its architecture the 
 whole building appears to be of the sixteenth 
 century. The tower has been built since 1486, for 
 in that year we find a legacy left expressly for the 
 purpose. On the south-east buttress are the Paston 
 arms, and on the steeple windows those of Paston 
 and Mautby. The original entrance to. the church 
 appears to have been to the west, the door in the 
 plain Gothic style having been blocked up in the 
 centre of the tower.
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTOX. 1 I 
 
 At the north and west corners of the tower are 
 niches in the ornamental Gothic style, hut in a 
 very dilapidated state, in which apparently statues 
 have once stood. At the bottom of each niche are 
 shields, probably at one time bearing arms, but 
 they are entirely obliterated by the hand of time. 
 The arch at the porch of the present entrance 
 appears to have been richly ornamented, but is 
 greatly disfigured from continued whitening. 
 
 The steeple water spouts are adorned with 
 curious heads, some of which may have been 
 intended by the regulars to intimate the enmity 
 which, in early times, they had against what are 
 termed the seculars. 1 
 
 1 The secular clergy were the parish priests, who were much 
 hated by the monastic, or regular clergy, as they called them- 
 selves. The latter, by their continued encroachments upon the 
 former in getting the parochial churches appropriated to themselves, 
 and thus rendering the seculars wholly subservient, and obliged 
 to take what they chose to allow them for the service of cures, or 
 otherwise obtaining dispensations to serve themselves, soon drew 
 down that deep-rooted antipathy which was the cause of the 
 reflections which these various ornaments were intended to con- 
 vey. Their covetousness soon becoming manifest to the world, led 
 the people to join with the parish priests ; and the monasteries 
 and churches appropriated to the monks, or regular clergy, soon 
 became ornamented with representations of lions, wolves, foxes, 
 &c. as emblems of their craft and rapine, fixed with leaden 
 spouts to their mouths. The parochial churches in which the 
 secular interest prevailed were, in like manner, adorned with the 
 representations of monks in their cowls pouring water out of 
 their mouths ; every shower being an indication of their excess 
 in gluttony, &c.
 
 12 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 The interior of the church presents nothing to 
 attract particular notice. The arms of Harsick 
 are conspicuous, and those of Paston, Delapole, 
 and Wingfield quarterly, and Berry were upon the 
 roof. 
 
 The font is English art shortly before the 
 Reformation. The pedestal is richly wrought with 
 canopy work, and rests on four beasts' heads. The 
 basin is octagon, its sides bearing angels holding 
 blank shields, alternating with the symbols of the 
 evangelists. 
 
 The altar-piece is a print of very old date, with 
 full length figures of Moses, Aaron, and Joshua, 
 the ten commandments and Lord's prayer being 
 in the centre. 
 
 To the left of the gallery stairs is an ancient 
 carved figure in the wall, represented in robes, 
 holding a scroll in one hand, which was removed 
 to its present position some years back when the 
 church was repaired. 
 
 The interior of the church can boast of no 
 splendid monumental piles, but there are several 
 neat stones to record departed worth. 
 
 In the church was the guild of the Holy Cross. 
 
 The church at Bacton was a rectorv dedicated 
 to St. Andrew, and granted to the prior of Broom- 
 holme by William de Glanviile, the founder, who 
 had it appropriated to his house, valued at twenty- 
 five marks, and a vicarage was appointed. The 
 prior, in the time of Edward I, held forty acres
 
 AMI GEOLOGY OF BACTO.V. 13 
 
 with the rectory, and the vicar had competent 
 edifices, with one earn cat e of land valued at two 
 marks, and paid two marks per annum to the 
 prior, and the prior had two parts of the wax at 
 the purification of the blessed Virgin. In 1780 
 its value was estimated at <£5 2s. lid., ob. and is 
 discharged. It is valued in the King's Book at 
 £5 3s. Hd. In 1746 it was augmented with 
 £200 in land, given by Miles Branthwayte, Esq.; 
 and in 1747 and 1792 with ^400 of Queen Ann's 
 bounty. 
 
 King Henry VIII, on June 5th, in his thirty- 
 seventh year, granted this rectory, appropriated to 
 the aforesaid priory, with the presentation of the 
 vicarage to Sir Thomas Wodehouse, of Waxham ; 
 and in 1603 the vicar returned 197 communicants. 
 
 The patronage was afterwards in the Berneys, 
 and since in the Branthwavtes, who were also lords 
 of Broomholme priory. 
 
 Miss Norris, a minor, daughter and heir of the 
 late John Norris, Esq. of Witton, who died Jan. 
 1777, was for some years patron and lady of a 
 considerable part of the town including Broom- 
 holme priory, and also lands in several of the neigh- 
 bouring parishes. From this lady it came into the 
 possession of Colonel, now Lord Wodehouse. 2 
 
 2 This family derive their descent, with little intermission, 
 through a succession of knights from the time of Henry I. In 
 that reign Sir Constable Wodehouse married Isabel, daughter and 
 heiress of the Botetorts. John Wodehouse was a gentleman of
 
 14 
 
 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 VICARS. 
 
 Ralph occurs in . . • 1257 
 John de Wode (Instituted vicar, presented 
 
 by the prior of Broomholme) . . 1325 
 William de Barkere . . .1331 
 
 John Benne .... 1349 
 
 Edmund . . . . 1349 
 
 John Trice .... 1376 
 
 Sim Moysie .... 1400 
 John Sutton . . . .1401 
 
 Ad. Aron .... 1420 
 
 William Snelling . . . 1436 
 
 James Smith .... 1446 
 
 John Seyve .... 1472 
 
 Robert Norwich (by the bishop) . . 1498 
 
 William Benet .... 
 
 Cuthbert Smith (by John Boyce, assignee 
 
 of the prior) . . . 1530 
 Robert Linley (by Thomas, Earl of Wilt- 
 shire) .... 1539 
 Stephen Triket (by the bishop) . . 1554 
 William Foster (by Sir Thos. Wodehouse) 1569 
 
 the privy chamber to Henry V, and attended that monarch into 
 France. At the battle of Agincourt he so much distinguished 
 himself, that the king granted him an augmentation to his arms, 
 with leave to bear, as a motto, Agincourt, and appointed him 
 steward of the duchy of Lancaster, in the county of Norfolk ; 
 with a salary of £10 per annum. Sir John Wodehouse, having 
 represented two parliaments, was created baron in 1797.
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 1 5 
 
 Thomas Randall (by Sir Henry Wodehouse) 1597 
 
 William Cook (by John Smith, Esq.) . 1614 
 
 William Gough . . . .1663 
 
 Nicholas Pollard (by Thomas Berney, Esq.) 1667 
 
 John Hobbys (by William Branthwayte) . 1675 
 
 Henry Francis .... 1681 
 
 On a mural tablet, in the south side of the outer wall 
 of the church, is the following, to the memory of this 
 individual. 
 
 Near this place is interr'd 
 
 Henry Francis, M.A. 
 
 Vic r - of this Parish, who 
 
 died y e 3 d of Sepf- 1711. 
 
 Aged 52. 
 
 Charles Buck (by Julian Branthwayte, being 
 
 lord of Broomholme priory) . . 1711 
 
 To his memory, and that of his family, is the following, 
 in the chancel of the church. 
 
 H. S.J. 
 
 Carolus Buck. A.M. hujus 
 
 Ecclesiae per triginta quatuor Annos 
 
 Pastor, Vir Ingenio acer, Literis 
 
 egregius, ast Moribus pene divinus. 
 
 Obiit 16 t0 Mar. 1745. iEt. 79. 
 
 Jacet item Maria, Uxor pientissima ; 
 
 provida, humana atq: benevola. 
 Obiit 25 to Jul.: 1745. Mt. 64. 
 
 Jacet & Georgius, Filius obsequentissi- 
 
 mus, Indole suavi bonaq: adolescens. 
 
 Hunc, dum Patriis Artibus bene instruc- 
 
 tus per arduum Virtutis iter fausto 
 
 ascendebat Omine, abstulit ante 
 
 Diem atra mors 
 
 17 mo Dec. 1743. iEt. 21.
 
 16 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 Jaces et Tu Samuel, Natorum om- 
 nium maxime ; Vir prisca Fide, Benevolen- 
 tia larga & insigni pietate. Tabe caeca diu 
 laborasti, tandem anhelans moriebaris, 
 22 d0 Aug. 1748. JEt. 38. 
 
 Metyer Reynolds (by Miles Branthwayte, 
 
 Esq.) . . . 1746 
 
 Thomas Hewitt, A.B. (till April 2) . 1791 
 
 In the chancel is the following, also to this individual. 
 
 To the memory of 
 
 the Reverend and learned 
 
 Thomas Hewitt, A.B. 
 
 a man of most exemplary piety 
 
 and worth 
 
 Who died April 2, 1791. 
 
 Aged 76 years. 
 
 Ewen 1792 
 
 Phillip Aufrere . . . . 1806 
 
 George J. Aufrere . . .1811 
 
 George L. W. Farquier, the present incum- 
 bent . . . . .1823 
 
 The temporalities of Bacton, with Broomholme 
 and Cas wick, were £8 17s. 8d., deducting £1 17s. 8d. 
 
 Bacton has suffered much from the encroach- 
 ments of the sea. In the description of lands 
 appropriated to the Priory of Broomholme are the 
 names of many places which are now quite obso- 
 lete, the sites on which they once stood being now 
 occupied by the ocean. 3 
 
 3 The sea has been gaining considerably for many years upon 
 the whole coast.
 
 AND GEOJLOGY OF BACTON. 17 
 
 The outskirts of the village present a great di- 
 versity of scenery, and the extensive prospect which 
 is enjoyed of the sea, as it meets the view from 
 various eminences, contributes much to its pleasant 
 and healthful situation. 
 
 MANSIONS IN THE OUTSKIRTS. 
 
 Witton hall, late the seat of Lord Wodehouse. 
 This noble quadrangular mansion, built of white 
 brick, with entrance tower in the east front, and 
 demi-octagonal centre, was begun in 1770 by the 
 late John Norris, Esq., who encompassed it with a 
 large park, and fine plantations, but died before its 
 completion. 
 
 To the north-west of Bacton is Paston hall, the 
 residence of John Mack, Esq. The mansion is a 
 neat building of white brick, of modern date, and 
 
 The greater part of Eccles, with the manor of Gilham hall 
 and Whimpwell, are said to have been swallowed up by an inun- 
 dation of the sea. The cliffs at Happisburgh are continually 
 wasting by the agitation of tides and storms, and it is calculated 
 the church will be engulphed in the ocean before the close of the 
 present century, the sea having encroached upwards of one hun- 
 dred and seventy yards during the last sixty years. 
 
 The old church at Overstrand, between Mundesley and Cromer, 
 has been also swallowed up by the sea, as in the last year of 
 Richard II, John Reymes alienated half an acre of land for a 
 churchyard to bury the dead, and in the first year of Henry IV, 
 a patent was granted to build the parish church thereon. 
 
 The village of Shipden, with its church, dedicated to St. Peter, 
 which laid between Cromer and the sea, has wholly disap- 
 peared 
 
 c
 
 18 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 is embowered in wood. The old hall, long the 
 seat of the Paston family, no longer exists ; it 
 originally stood near the church, and had two 
 courts ; in the inner court was a well. The buttery 
 hatch, with the hall, was standing in 17.39 ; but 
 the chambers over it, and the chapel, were in ruins. 
 Over the door of a great staircase the arms of Berry 
 were carved. 
 
 KESWIC. 
 
 Time has so effectually cast his mantle over this 
 once rising hamlet, that but little can be gathered 
 as to its former extent, population, or importance. 
 Its situation was to the east of Bacton, and was 
 generally called Keswic, or Casewic, and appears 
 to have been part of the great manor of Bacton, 
 which extended into this place and Broomholme. 
 
 The Court Rolls of Bacton Manor are styled 
 "Bacton cum Broomholme and Keswic." 
 
 This place was granted by William de Glanville 
 to his priory, on the founding of it, by which it 
 appears to have existed anterior to the date of that 
 building. Bartholomew de Glanville, his son, con- 
 firmed the church to the said priory. 
 
 In 1382 the church was standing, dedicated to 
 St. Clement, but when it became extinct cannot be 
 determined ; extensive ruins remained for many 
 years, and one wall, the northern, is still visible, 
 about a furlong north-east of the priory, support-
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF B ACTON. I J) 
 
 ing the walls of the parish houses. The church- 
 yard is now a garden, in the occupation of Mr. 
 Francis Marshall, who in digging frequently finds 
 human bones. The road to the beach is also cut 
 through a part of it, and at the time of making, 
 many cart loads of bones were removed. A con- 
 siderable part of the parish of Keswic is now in 
 the sea, from the gradual falling of the cliffs. 
 
 There is an ancient prophecy respecting the 
 church which runs as follows : — 
 
 When Keswic church becomes a barn, 
 Broomholme Abbey will be a farm. 
 
 A barn in the occupation of Mr. W. Sturgess 
 now stands on a part of the scite of the old church ; 
 and Broomholme Abbey is a farm, in the occupa- 
 tion of Mr. W. Cubitt. 
 
 c 2
 
 20 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES.. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 BROOMHOLME. 
 
 The parish of Broomholme, or Broomholm, was 
 a beruite, or hamlet, to the town and manor of 
 Bacton, and not mentioned in Doomsday, as it was 
 included in the account of the survey of that place. 
 Nothing in history is said about its extent or popu- 
 lation, but it has been renowned for its priory, the 
 history of which we now proceed to give. 
 
 THE PRIORY. 
 
 The Normans surpassed almost every other na- 
 tion, in any period of history, in the taste they 
 manifested for magnificent buildings. * 
 
 The early part of the eleventh century was to 
 them an interval of comparative peace and tran- 
 quillity, and from this period we may date the com- 
 mencement of that mania which led the nobility to 
 emulate each other in erecting churches and found- 
 ing monasteries on their domains in Normandy. 
 
 Upon the subjugation of England, by their arms, 
 a general diffusion of their arts immediately fol- 
 lowed, and edifices vastly superior to those erected 
 on the continent, soon began to rise in every part of
 
 AM) GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 21 
 
 this country, and when the lands were distributed 
 by the Conqueror among- his barons, monasteries 
 were endowed, and the various sees and religious 
 establishments were filled with Norman bishops. 
 
 Such was the activity and zeal manifested in the 
 building and restoration of ecclesiastical buildings, 
 and the foundation of these monasteries, that 
 before the end of the eleventh century they were 
 scattered extensively over the kingdom, while many 
 of those already existing were refounded, and the 
 buildings demolished for the purpose of restoring 
 them on a more extensive scale. 
 
 To the south, on entering Bacton, situated upon 
 a rising ground about a quarter of a mile from the 
 sea coast, are some extensive ruins called Broom- 
 holme Priory, or more commonly known as Bac- 
 ton Abbeyj the remains of which are yet more 
 entire than those of most others. In the legendary 
 tale of Broomholme priory, or the loves of Albert 
 and Agnes, its situation is thus described : — 
 
 This cumb'rous fabric near the village stood, 
 Broomholme by name, its turrets saw the flood 
 That polish'd bright the pebbly fretted floor, 
 Which bound the margin of the neighbouring shore. 
 Whilst stately barks, borne by propitious gales 
 Upon the main, displayed their whit'ning sails, 
 Proud in prosperity would smoothly glide, 
 As murm'ring waves would feel their loves divide. 
 This hallowed fane, with reverential awe, 
 Was reared by him who studied virtue's law, 
 Mi Hugh De Plaiz his name, when England's crown 
 Destin'd by fate, adorned the brows of John :
 
 22 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 To the bless'd Virgin sacred was it made, 
 To many a saint due homage here was paid. 
 Here in his wand'rings at devotion's voice, 
 The unshod pilgrim tarrying would rejoice; 
 This sacred shrine witness'd the culprit's sigh, 
 And blest the incense from contrition's eye ; 
 The pealing anthem at the break of morn, 
 Was to the traveller's ear at distance borne ; 
 The vesper's hymn would chaunt the solemn lay, 
 As Cynthia beckoned the expiring day ; 
 Around this pile in many a heap were laid, 
 The simple swain and rustic village maid ; 
 Here oft the organ caught the list'ning ear, 
 Check'd the quick step, and drew the list'ner near ; 
 The solemn chaunt would linger on the gale, 
 And fill with mystic sounds the distant vale. 
 
 This priory is situated in the deanery of Waxton 
 and Archdeaconry of Norfolk. 
 
 About the middle of the village stands the en- 
 trance gate, with the porter's lodge, by which the 
 ruins are approached. Within the wall which sur- 
 rounded the scite is now a farm house, and many 
 of the religious buildings are converted into offices. 
 
 With feelings approaching somewhat to the sub- 
 lime, the lover of antiquity beholds the ruins of 
 former days, he muses on the remnants of departed 
 glory, while his thoughts unconsciously breathe the 
 language of the poet who has thus sweetly moral- 
 ized : — 
 
 How many hearts have here grown cold, 
 That sleep these mould'ring walls among ! 
 How many beads have here been told ! 
 How many matins here been sung !
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF B ACTON. 23 
 
 On this rude stone, by time long- broke, 
 I think I see some pilgrim kneel ; 
 I think I see the censor smoke, 
 I think I hear the solemn peal. 
 
 But here no more soft music floats, 
 No holy anthems chaunted now ; 
 All hush'd except the ringdove's notes, 
 Low murmuring from yon beachen bow. 
 
 Yes ! where silence now reigns undisturbed, the 
 voice of devotion has oftentimes resounded, and 
 vibrated sweetly upon each passing breeze. Im- 
 mured in each lonely cell, the secluded monks have 
 muttered many a prayer, when driven by the in- 
 fluence of superstition to seek a shelter within these 
 walls, thus to obtain temporal fame, or vainly to fit 
 themselves for heaven. 
 
 Couldst thou proud pile but bear testimony to 
 the past, what cruelties practised in the way of 
 penance would be revealed, what vices brought to 
 light, what tales of woe might pierce the ears of 
 those who gaze with wonder and admiration on 
 thy now faded splendour. 
 
 Time was when kings and conquerors sought a 
 refuge within thee, and thy walls were made to 
 echo with princely mirth. The banners of royalty 
 were suspended around thy halls, and many a 
 worthy knight rehearsed the tales of chivalry. 
 
 " Many days have pass'd since then, 
 Many changes thou hast seen."
 
 24 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 Kings and princes now pass thee by, and conn- 
 tries read thy name with unconcern, for " Time has 
 reduced all thy glory to nought !" 
 
 The gothic arches, mouldering to decay ; the 
 moss-grown stone ; the ivied walls ; all produce a 
 feeling of awe, and add to the solemnity which 
 pervades this proud but drooping remnant of Nor- 
 man grandeur. 
 
 This priory was founded in 1113, by William 
 de Glanville, 4 in the reign of Henry I, for monks 
 
 4 Monasteries, when first instituted, were considered simply 
 as religious houses. To them persons retired that they might 
 escape the noise and clamour of the world, and thus spend their 
 time in solitude by a strict attention to the duties of devotion. 
 But like most institutions they were open to abuse, and accord- 
 ingly we find that they soon degenerated from their original 
 purpose, and piety and devotion gave way to the amassing of 
 large privileges, exemptions, and riches. 
 
 The institution of these houses is generally attributed to St. 
 Anthony, and took its rise some time during the fourth century. 
 
 These religious houses prevailed greatly in Britain before the 
 Reformation, and in no part of England were they, perhaps, 
 more numerous than in the county of Norfolk, which possessed 
 the astonishing number of one hundred and twenty-two. 
 
 The greater part of these monasteries, there is just reason to 
 fear, were built and endowed by those who, having acquired 
 wealth by force or fraud, were anxious to pacify their consciences 
 by devoting part of it to such pious purposes. Others were 
 induced to take such steps, thinking by that means to expiate 
 their sins and obtain admission into heaven. So deplorably 
 ignorant and depraved were even the wealthy portion of the 
 community of that age, and they were made the easy dupes of 
 a wicked and designing priesthood.
 
 AM) GEOLOGY OF HACTON. 25 
 
 of the order of Cluni, 5 and was dedicated to St. 
 Andrew, and constituted a cell to Castle Acre. 6 
 Bartholomew de Glanville, who was sheriff of 
 Norfolk and Suffolk in the 16th and 22nd of 
 Henry II, confirmed the priory of Castle Acre 
 to this priory. 7 
 
 This priory was remarkable for the possession 
 of a famous relic in the shape of a "little cross," 
 stated to have been made by St. Helena out of that 
 part of the Saviour's cross to which his hands and 
 feet were nailed ; particularly the part where it was 
 most sprinkled with his blood, which she gave to 
 her son Constantine, and it was preserved by his 
 successors till it came to Baldwin the emperor, who 
 kept a chaplain to say daily mass before it. 8 This 
 
 5 Appendix A. 
 
 6 Cells were originally houses belonging to large monasteries, 
 where the monks sent their junior brethren, when too much 
 crowded at home, or refractory monks, to do penance for non- 
 compliance with monastic rules. 
 
 7 Appendix B. 
 
 8 The empress Helena, mother of Constantine, appears to have 
 been the first to bring the cross into notice, and to make it an 
 object of adoration. Having found a cross in Palestine, which 
 was believed to be the one on which Christ suffered, she conveyed 
 a part of it to Constantinople. Standards and weapons were from 
 that time ornamented with it. This holy relic soon became 
 multiplied. Numberless churches became possessed of it, the 
 miraculous power of which was said to have been proved by the 
 
 I astonishing facts, and many persons actually believed it 
 could be infinitely divided without decreasing. 
 
 The famous cross of Broomholme was probably made from 
 the pieces which St. Helena thus conveyed away.
 
 26 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 chaplain dying, one Hugh, a priest, born in Nor- 
 folk, was preferred to his place. Baldwin, as long 
 as he had this cross with him in the field, ever pre- 
 vailed, but forgetting it he was slain. After the 
 death of Baldwin, Hugh stole away with the cross, 
 and gave it to the monastery of Broomholme, 
 where, in gratitude for the gift, he and his two sons 
 were maintained during life. Such is the purport 
 of the story as related by Matthew Paris ; Hist. 
 Angl edit 1684, p. 268. 
 
 This cross being set up in the chapel of the 
 monastery, soon acquired to the house great honor 
 and wealth, through the successive pilgrimages that 
 were made to it, and which were continued till the 
 year 1223, or most probably till its dissolution, 
 but in that year we find them expressly mentioned. 
 In fact, it is stated that "there was so great a con- 
 course of persons from all parts to reverence it, 
 that the monastery became abundantly rich by the 
 gifts and offerings made." 
 
 Edward II held this relic in peculiar veneration, 
 and confirmed a previous grant to this priory " in 
 honour of God and out of his special devotion to 
 the holy cross." 
 
 Henry III was a distinguished visitor to the 
 priory during the time it retained possession of 
 this cross, and in his thirteenth year granted the 
 prior and convent a fair on the feast of the "ex- 
 altation of the holy cross," and two days after. In 
 the eighteenth year of his reii?n we find mention
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 27 
 
 of his being at Broomholme, with his mother and 
 nobles, viz. Peter, Bishop of Winchester ; William 
 Earl Warren ; Roger le Bigot, Earl of Norfolk ; 
 Philip de Albini ; Hugh de Spencer ; Godfrey de 
 Crawecumb ; John Fitz Philip ; Thomas de Herme- 
 grave ; Bartholomew Peche, &c. 
 
 This cross is made frequent mention of in the 
 history of those times. Piers Plowman alludes to 
 the pilgrimages to it in his vision : — 
 
 " But wenden to Walsingham, an my wif Alis, 
 And byd the roode of Broomholme bring me out of dete." 
 
 Fuller says : — " Amongst all others, commend 
 me to the crosse at the priory of Bromebolme, in 
 Northfolke." 9 
 
 Oblations to the holy cross were returned in 
 Valor Eccles. 1534, at £5 12s. 9d. ; p. 344. 
 
 The middle ages Avere pre-eminently the dark 
 periods of the church, and were marked for the 
 
 9 The adoration of relics was the occasion of continual pil- 
 grimages, and when we recollect that every means by which the 
 people might become enlightened were kept from their reach, we 
 are not surprised that such marks of deceit were practised upon 
 them with impunity. The prevalent belief in the doctrine of 
 purgatory, and the virtue there was said to be in the masses to 
 redeem souls out of it, or to relieve their pains whilst there, 
 became a pretext for extortion of every kind. Thorpe, who 
 lived at the time when these practises were abundant, says : — 
 " Examine, whosoever will, twenty of these pilgrims, and he 
 shall not find the men or women that know surely a command- 
 ment of God, nor can say their Pater nostcr and Ave Maria, nor 
 their Credo readily in any manner of language.
 
 28 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 prevailing effects of ignorance and idolatry. The 
 holy cross at Boomholme was not without its as- 
 cribed virtue, as numerous miracles 1 are said to 
 have been performed upon the devotees at its 
 shrine. Capgrave says that no fewer than " thirty- 
 nine were raised from the dead, and nineteen blind 
 persons recovered their sight by it." 
 
 In this priory were also preserved the "girdle 
 for Zona, and milk of the Blessed Virgin, and 
 fragments of the crosses of St. Peter and St. An- 
 drew." 2 
 
 1 There is no evidence which would lead to the placing of any 
 dependence upon the reality of these miracles. But when the 
 state of society is considered, the ignorance of the people and 
 the power of the church at the time they are stated to have been 
 performed, they appear but as an addition to the list of extensive 
 forgeries which too deeply stain the annals of the church of 
 Rome, — forgeries effected in those dark ages, to deceive the 
 people, and pour into the treasuries of her priests the abundance 
 of their wealth. It is worthy of remark — the monastery of 
 Broomholme did not become rich till miracles were said to be 
 performed by the holy cross. 
 
 • The abuses of the church of Rome with respect to relics, 
 have in every age been notorious. Such was the rage for them 
 at one time, that Father Mabillon, a Benedictine, complained 
 that the altars were loaded with suspected relics ; numerous 
 spurious ones being every where offered, to the piety and devo- 
 tion of the faithful. He states too, "that bones were often 
 consecrated which, so far from belonging to saints, probably 
 never belonged to christians!" To show how far this fraud 
 extended, it may only be added that the " girdle" of the Virgin 
 Mary, said to have been possessed by the monastery at Broom- 
 holme, was shown, to the visitors appointed by Henry VIII, in 
 eleven different places.
 
 \\U GEOLOGY OF BACTON. L n > 
 
 In the year 12*29 it appears that a controversy 
 arose between the priors of Lewes, in Sussex, and 
 Acre and the prior of Broomholme, respecting the 
 appointment of a prior to this abbey. Pope Gre- 
 gory, to put an end to the controversy, referred the 
 matter for determination to the abbot of Ossulves- 
 ton, in Leicestershire, and the deans of Stamford 
 and Rutland, who, among other things, decreed 
 that the prior of Acre should nominate six monks, 
 three of Acre, and three of Broomholme, out of 
 whom the monastery of Broomholme should choose 
 one for their prior. This decree was made in the 
 church of St. Mary, near the bridge in Stamford, 
 and dated the Wednesday before Palm Sunday, 
 1229. Pope Celestine V, by a bull dated in his 
 fourth year, granted this priory to be free from any 
 subjection to that of Castle Acre. 
 
 Respecting the subjection of the monks to the 
 priory at Castle Acre, it appears that at an early 
 period it was agreed between the convents that the 
 former raising the rents of the fee farm at Witton, 
 which they held of the monks at Acre, ten shillings 
 a year, the latter should remit and quit all other 
 claims whatsoever which they had upon the monks 
 of Broomholme in the form of aids or recognitions. 
 
 By an original and unpublished deed, in the 
 possession of Dawson Turner, Esq., of Yarmouth, 
 dated 2 Henry VIII, 3 it appears that an agreement 
 
 Appendix C.
 
 30 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 was entered into between the priors of Castle Acre 
 and of Broomholme, stipulating that for the fol- 
 lowing five years the latter should pay to the former 
 only twelve pounds, in lieu of the accustomed an- 
 nuity of fifteen pounds, six shillings, and eightpence, 
 the reduction being made in consequence of the 
 dilapidated state of the buildings and the weight 
 of their debts. This deed proves that the priory 
 of Broomholme was not altogether freed from a 
 certain dependence upon Castle Acre up to this 
 
 period. 
 
 Of the individuals who filled the office of prior, 
 we have mention of Vincent, the first prior, induct- 
 ed to the abbey in the reign of Henry I. Philip 
 about 1210. Vincent, 21 Henry III. Clement, 42 
 Henry III. This appears by a fine, then levied 
 between him and William de St. Omer, of forty 
 shillings in arrear due to the prior. John, 53 
 Henry III, and 1 Ed. I. William de Totington, 
 died prior 6 Ed. I, upon April 4th, in which year 
 William de Wytton received confirmation as prior. 
 Lawrence de Reppe, 9 Ed. II. John, 11 Ed. III. 
 Robert, 14 Henry VI. John Tytleshall, 14(30. 
 John Macham. John Underwood, 1509, suffragan 
 bishop to the bishop of Norwich, by the title of 
 John, bishop of Chalcedon. William Lakenham, 
 22 Henry VIII. This individual appears to have 
 been the last prior. 
 
 This priory appears to have been, when first 
 established, inhabited by seven or eight monks from
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 31 
 
 Castle Acre, but in 14(>() the number is stated at 
 ten, including the prior. 
 
 It appears from the " Pas ton Letters," vol. ii, 
 p. 81, that John Paston, heir of Sir John Fastolfe, 
 was buried at Broomholm, and some curious details 
 are preserved relative to the funeral and funeral 
 procession. These particulars are given in full by 
 Blomefield ; 2 but the following abridged account is 
 extracted by permission from a work 3 about to be 
 edited by Dawson Turner, Esq., of Yarmouth, 
 whose kindness the author rejoices thus gratefully 
 to record. 
 
 ' The body of the Lord of Caister was conveyed 
 from London into Norfolk in sumptuous state ; 
 priests, dirge-singers, and torch-bearers attending 
 all the way. The latter, twelve poor men, who each 
 received a groat per diem during the six days em- 
 ployed upon the journey, were escorted by thirty- 
 nine children, in surplices, to the church of St. Peter 
 at Hungate, 4 in Norwich, where the corpse lay a 
 considerable time exposed in state. During all 
 this period, the bells incessantly tolled, the priests 
 
 - Vol. iii, p. 692. 
 Sketch of the History of Caister Castle, near Yarmouth, 
 &c, 8vo., 1842. — A book at present unpublished, but which may 
 shortly be expected to issue from the press. 
 
 4 " The name of this church is derived from its vicinity to one 
 of the gates of the Episcopal Palace, near which the Bishop of 
 Norwich kept his hounds; and they, in the first instance, im- 
 parted their name to the Houndyate, and then to the churcli of 
 St. Peter, adjoining it." Hist. Caister Castle.
 
 32 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 chaunted, and the four orders of friars watched 
 near the coffin, and read alond. Nor were gratuities 
 wanting ; for a sum of £8 was distributed amongst 
 the monks that performed the service ; while the 
 thirty-eight priests received 12s. 8d.; and twenty- 
 three? nuns, a groat a-piece. Still farther, twenty 
 shillings' worth of wine was given to the singers ; 
 and even the surpliced boys, ' within the scurche 
 and without,' (as the document expresses it,) had 
 .'3s. 4cl. to divide among them. Sweeping along, 
 with equal state and cost, the procession held the 
 even tenor of its way to Broomholm Priory, its 
 final resting-place. There, within the walls of that 
 noble monastery, they deposited the object of their 
 care; and then indeed the revelry and banqueting 
 began. It can hardly fail of appearing to those of 
 the present day wonderful, when they learn the 
 scale upon which this system of rioting — for such 
 it cannot but have been — was conducted. For 
 three continuous days, one man was engaged in no 
 other occupation than that of flaying beasts; and 
 provision was made of thirteen barrels of beer, 
 twenty-seven barrels of ale, one barrel ' of beer of 
 the greatest assyze,' and ' a roundlet of rede wine of 
 xv gallons.' All these, however, copious as they 
 seem, proved inadequate to the demand ; for the 
 account goes on to state, that five coombs of malt 
 at one time, and ten coombs at another, were brewed 
 up expressly for the occasion. Meat, too, was in 
 proportion to the liquor: the country round about
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 33 
 
 must have been swept of geese, chickens, capons, 
 and ' such small gear,' all which, with the thirteen 
 hundred eggs, the twenty gallons of milk and eight 
 of cream, ' forty-one pyggs, forty-nine calves, and 
 ten nete' slain and devoured, give a fearful picture 
 of the scene of festivity the abbey-walls at that time 
 beheld. Amongst such provisions, the article of 
 bread bears nearly the same proportion as in Fal- 
 staff's bill of fare. The one 'half-penny worth' 
 of the staff of life to the " inordinate quantity of 
 sack,' was acted over again in Broomholm Priory ; 
 but then, on the other hand, in matter of consump- 
 tion, the torches, the many pounds' weight of wax 
 to burn over the grave, and the separate candles of 
 enormous stature and girth, form prodigious items. 
 On such an occasion, it is pleasant to find that 
 almsgiving had not been omitted ; and that, 
 amongst all the above-enumerated goods ' which 
 perish in the using,' some better treasure had been 
 laid up in store. The opportunity was not let slip 
 for enriching the churches of Bacton, Paston, 
 Gresham, and other places in the vicinity ; and not 
 those alone, but twelve at a distance — amongst 
 them, Reedham steeple, which, at that time, was 
 needing repairs, and halting for lack of funds. 
 Indiscriminate largesses, too, however little calcu- 
 lated to do real good, were even more abundant : 
 no less a sum than £20 was changed from gold 
 into smaller coin, that it might be showered amongst 
 the attendant throng; and twenty-six marcs in 
 
 D
 
 34 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 copper had been used for the same objact in Lon- 
 don, before the procession began to move. 
 
 A few of the remaining items are rather amusing 
 as well as curious ; for, that a barber should have 
 been occupied five days in smartening up the monks 
 for the ceremony, affords a glimpse of earth and its 
 vanities, which it could hardly be expected would 
 have been seen within the convent's world-excluding 
 precincts. Nor could any one, unaided, have 
 imagined, that ' the reke of the torches at the 
 dirige' should, to such a degree, have filled the 
 church and beclouded its atmosphere, as to require 
 that the glazier should remove two panes from the 
 windows, to give the mantling fumes opportunity 
 to escape. 
 
 At length, having committed the body to the 
 earth amidst all this encircling pomp, and having 
 provided for the spirit's weal, by founding com- 
 memorative services in perpetuity, they remunerated 
 the vicar of the neighboring parish of Wood-Dalling 
 with 8s. 4d. for a pardon fetched from Rome, and 
 gratified him, in addition, with the present of a 
 black gown and cope, technically called a ' frogge 
 of worstead.' "
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 35 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE RUINS. 
 
 From the very deranged state of the ruins, it is 
 scarcely possible to form a decided opinion of the 
 particular purpose to which each part of the abbey 
 was applied. 
 
 The principal gate is to the north, and appears 
 to have formed a noble gothic arch, a great part of 
 which has fallen into decay. At each corner of 
 this entrance is a shield of finely cut flint. On 
 either side of the gate stood the porters lodge. 
 
 Another gate to the west, on the east side of 
 the bridge, over the moat, is of smaller dimensions, 
 but the arch is fallen. The lodges here seem to 
 have been of the same kind as at the principal gate. 
 
 The north transept of the church, now converted 
 into a granary, commonly termed the dove-house, 
 remains nearly entire ; the entrance doorway form- 
 ing a circular Norman arch, is destitute of archi- 
 tectural ornament. The other parts of the church 
 are in ruins ; but its extent is marked by the 
 remains of large circular arches, which overhang 
 many parts, and by a wall, in which there is a 
 niche, where probably was deposited the basin for 
 the holy water. 
 
 In 1838 a skull was discovered, supposed to have 
 belonged to a corpse buried in the church. This 
 church was one hundred paces (gressus) long, and 
 twenty-five broad. In it was the guild of the holy 
 
 d 2
 
 36 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 cross. The Lady chapel was probably to the east. 
 
 The chapter-house adjoined the church. Its 
 ruins present a noble relic of the venerable pile, 
 with its large gothic window to the east, and cas- 
 tellated walls, commanding a fine view of the sea. 
 Next to the chapter-house came the refectory, 
 with the large hall, or dining apartment. A room, 
 probably the kitchen to the monastery, must have 
 existed where the large fire-place stands. 
 
 The quadrangle and cloister to the south of the 
 church adjoined the transept, and extended west- 
 ward. Over the cloisters was probably the dormi- 
 tory, or sleeping apartment of the monks. 
 
 No exact traces can be gained of the precise 
 place where the prior's apartments were situated, 
 but it is conjectured they were to the west. 
 
 The priory precinct, partly walled and partly 
 moated, occupies about thirty acres. The walls 
 were about twelve feet in height, but part of them 
 have been taken down, and others have fallen into 
 decay. 
 
 The burial ground is situated to the east of the 
 ruins, in a field now styled the Dove-house close. 
 Whilst ploughing, some years back, in this field, 
 several stone coffins were met with a little below 
 the surface. 
 
 The nave and transept of the church (except the 
 west front) may have been of the original edifice. 
 The west front, the choir, and most of the conven- 
 tual buildings, are presumed to be of a later date,
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 37 
 
 perhaps erected when an addition was made to the 
 fame and revenues of the house by the acquisition 
 of the holy cross. 
 
 Whilst digging, in 1840, for gravel, to the west 
 of the church, an entrance was discovered a few 
 feet below the surface, which appeared to lead to 
 some vault connected with the building ; it was 
 approached by steps paved with freestone. About 
 the same time, a font was found amongst some 
 old rubbish, but I regret to state that it was very 
 soon destroyed ; it appears to have been of a 
 circular form, and quite plain. 
 
 Several pieces of money have at various times 
 been picked up about the ruins, but they have 
 thrown no light whatever upon the history of the 
 place, being chiefly what are termed Abbey 
 counters. 
 
 The register belonging to the priory was in 
 bishop Moor's library, and is now in the library of 
 the University of Cambridge. 
 
 Tanner and Edmonson give the arms of Broom- 
 holme priory, Arg. a cross voided sable, double 
 cottised of the last, all within a border Or. 
 
 BlomefiVld says : Arg. a cross, gu. upon a pedes- 
 tal of three steps, with a greater and less transverse 
 at top. 
 
 Le Neve in his MS. states : Arg. a cross, sable, 
 fimbriated Or. upon a pedestal of one step within 
 a border ( )r.
 
 38 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 ARCHITECTURE OF THE PRIORY. 
 
 At the period from which we may date those 
 magnificent and ancient buildings, whose ruins still 
 attest their grandeur, arts, sciences, and learning, 
 were principally confined to the clerical order. 
 There is great reason to believe, says the editor of 
 the Pictorial History of England, that it was their 
 architectural skill which produced the designs, 
 which their wealth contributed to carry into execu- 
 tion. 
 
 The share which the clerical architect took in the 
 work was probably confined to the general dimen- 
 sions, outline, and character of the building ; the 
 actual construction was the business of the master 
 mason ; while the subordinate parts, with their vari- 
 ous details, were confided to a class of operative 
 artists, unknown in the present age, whose minds, as 
 well as hands, were occupied upon the mouldings 
 and decorations which they invented as well as exe- 
 cuted ; each man's province being extremely limited. 
 It is difficult, upon any other theory, to account for 
 the combination and unity of design, with the vast 
 variety of detail, of the works of the middle ages. 
 
 The architectural style of the priory of Broom- 
 holme appears to be that of the Norman and the 
 early or lancet gothic united. 
 
 The editor of the General History of the County 
 of Norfolk says: "A part of its architecture is so
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTOX. 69 
 
 entirely of the same style as Norwich Cathedral, 
 that it can scarcely be doubted but they are of the 
 same era." "They may probably," says Mr. Cot- 
 man, "be of the same hand." 
 
 The north transept, with its triforium arches, 
 many of which still remain, bears some resemblance 
 to those of Norwich Cathedral and the church of 
 St. Nicholas, Yarmouth. 
 
 The churches generally were built in the form 
 of the latin cross, terminating at the end in a semi- 
 circular apsis. The internal elevations consisted of 
 three divisions, the lower arches — the triforium, 
 occupying the space between the vaulting and ex- 
 ternal roof of the side aisles — and the clerestory. 
 
 The circular arched entrance, north of the tran- 
 sept, appears to be built of Caen stone, and though 
 plain, attests the origin of at least this part of the 
 building. To the east a very lofty arch presents 
 itself, of the early gothic. 
 
 The chapter-house has a very large window, of 
 the early pointed gothic, supposed to have been 
 added in the reign of Henry VII, but it appears 
 of a much earlier date. 
 
 The arcades on the face of the interior walls are 
 very plain and simple ; and are intended to take off 
 the effect of a large extent of plain surface, as the 
 windows are but small. This appears to have been 
 usual in all Norman architecture. 
 
 The chimney is very modern, as the builders of 
 the middle ages gave the preference to warming
 
 40 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES 
 
 their halls by a central hearth, leaving the smoke 
 to blacken the roof and escape as it best might by 
 an open lantern. 
 
 The niche in the dove- house, which bears traces 
 of the ornamented gothic, was probably added, with 
 other parts of the building, as the abbey increased 
 in fame and opulence. 
 
 The following are the supposed dimensions of 
 
 the various buildings, &c. 
 
 The church . . . 1 12 feet 
 
 Pigeon house (north transept) 22 feet by 18 feet 
 Chancel . . . .23 feet 
 Quadrangle . . .73 feet by 47 feet 
 
 Cloister .... 76 feet by 21 feet 
 Large hall . . . 100 feet by 24 feet 
 
 PRIVILEGES AND GRANTS. 
 
 The prior and monks of Broomholme enjoyed 
 many privileges and had extensive grants of land 
 in the country round, among which the following 
 may be enumerated. 
 
 William de Glanville, the founder, endowed the 
 priory with lands in Bacton, Keswick, &c. This 
 grant was confirmed by his eldest son Bartholomew, 
 by deed, after his father's death, and included " the 
 land of Stanard, the priest, and the church of 
 Keswick, and the appurtenances in Broomholme, 
 the church of Dilham, with its appurtenances, the 
 whole tithe of his lordship of Bacton, and two parts 
 of the tithe of Stainges, Horham, Arleton, Langho, 
 and Brug, belonging to his lordship ; also of
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 41 
 
 Sneseling, with all the tithe of his mills in Bacton 
 and Wilefort, two parts of the tithe of the mill 
 of Honing, and one mill at Mundesley, with the 
 land of Herfrid, the priest, and part of his wood 
 in the mill way to Takesgate ; two parts of the 
 tithe of various homages or tenants of Roger de 
 Baketon, Geffrey, the priest of Honing, Walter 
 Utlage, &c ; all the tithe of Richard, son of Ketel, 
 and the whole tithe of the paunage of Bacton and 
 Horham, and of the turbage, or turfs, of Swathe- 
 field, two parts." 
 
 At his death, the said Bartholomew also be- 
 queathed to the priory, Gristoinb, and all that he 
 possessed in the fields there, with his villains, to 
 be free and quit from all customs, except the king's 
 dane-geld. He also gave them the church of Pas- 
 ton, with its appurtenances, with all his wood and 
 land there, with his, land at Gurieho, ancfcat Briges 
 at Aldehithe, and Lawceland, and of Editha de 
 Briges ; thirty acres by the sea, and a meadow at 
 Brereholme ; the tithe of what was provided for 
 his own house, a marsh by Broomholme, ten other 
 acres by the sea, and the tithe of Richard, the priest 
 of Bachetuna, all in honour of God, the Virgin 
 Mary, and St. Andrew the Apostle, for the health 
 of his own soul, his father's, and all his friends, 
 living and dead. 
 
 On the death of Robert Lord Mallctt, his son 
 
 , w — 
 
 Robert being in rebellion against Henry I, was 
 deprived of all his possessions in England, and this
 
 42 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 manor, which he held (hi capite) was granted to 
 Stephen, Earl of Moreton, and Boulogne, in France, 
 (son of the Earl of Blois) who, by his praecipe to 
 his justiciary of Suffolk and Norfolk, and all his 
 faithful men, without date, let them know that he 
 granted to the monks of Acre, at Bacton, and con- 
 firmed " whatsoever William de Glanville, their 
 founder, had given ; also, all the land and men 
 which he had at Gueneholme, with sixteen shillings 
 and one penny rent, and orders and commands that 
 they may enjoy peaceably in all his lordship what 
 they possess." 
 
 From the register of this monastery it appears 
 also, that King Henry I gave to Vincent the manor 
 of Burgh, which Ralph, the son of Roger de Burgh, 
 or Burgo, held of him in Burgh, in Lothingland, 
 by serjeanty, which serjeanty Ralph granted to 
 William de Wesenham, and he afterwards regranted 
 to the king, and the king confirmed the manor free 
 to the convent, reserving" the advowson to the 
 crown, and the dower of Alice, widow of Roger de 
 Burgo, for her life ; and in consideration of this 
 grant, the convent released to the king a rent 
 charge of five marks per annum, from the ex- 
 chequer, which the king had granted in the 29th 
 year of his reign. 
 
 Sarah, widow of Joceline de Burgo, gave eight 
 shillings and eightpence, rent in Yarmouth. 
 
 John de Annok, and Milesentia his wife, gave 
 their land, with certain buildings in Yarmouth, &c.
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 43 
 
 Agnes de Rollesby gave an annual rent there of 
 eighteen shillings and eightpence. 
 
 Elsten Kemp gave fourpenee in Lodoweystoft, 
 or Lowestoft. 
 
 Walter de Blundeston gave Lambcote, and a 
 marsh there. 
 
 Richard, son of Ralph de Paston, gave twelve- 
 pence, rent in Paston. 
 
 Gilbert, son of Nicholas de Repps, gave twelve- 
 pence, rent in Repps. 
 
 These grants were confirmed by Henry III, in 
 the eighteenth year of his reign. 
 
 After this it fell as an escheat to the crown, and 
 Richard, Earl of Cornwall, son of King John, and 
 brother to Henry III, held it (in capite) and was 
 patron of the priory. On his death it came again 
 to the crown, Margaret, his wife, having some 
 dower in the said capital lordship. 
 
 Edward II, in his sixth year, in honour of God, 
 and out of his special devotion to the holy cross 
 of this priory, and for one hundred marks paid to 
 him, confirmed to the priory the manor of Baketon, 
 with wreck at sea, and all other privileges, on the 
 payment of twenty pounds per annum into the 
 exchequer as a fee farm rent for ever. 
 
 William de Crostweyt, son of Godfrey deSkyton, 
 gave two parts of his tithe to this priory. The 
 <\vc(\ is undated. 
 
 Gilbert, son of Thomas, knight of Ilketeshall, 
 gave them his tithes in Hedenham, in 1252; these
 
 44 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 consisted of two garbs from the demesnes of Gil- 
 bert, two garbs of the demesne of Roger de 
 Mohaut, in Cressingland, and two from the de- 
 mesne of Roger de Colville, of Ca..ton. 
 
 15th Henry VI. In this year an agreement was 
 made between William Delapole, Earl of Suffolk, 
 and Robert, then prior, that whereas the said prior 
 and convent held the fifth part of the manor of 
 Bacton, called the king's part, paying yearly to the 
 said earl and his heirs male, twenty pounds, and 
 by virtue of that part had a certain leet and view 
 of frankpledge belonging to it, valued at 34s. 4d. 
 per annum, — the prior, granted to the said earl 
 the aforesaid leet, 34s. 4d., wreck at sea, &c, 
 belonging to it for his life, and the said earl cove- 
 nanted to pay the sum of 34s. 4d. to the prior, out 
 of i;20 annual fee farm payable to him by the prior. 
 
 In the reign of Henry VII it was possessed by 
 the widow of John Delapole, Earl of Lincoln. 
 
 William, prior of Castle Acre and his convent, 
 granted, for ever, to Broomholme, the church at 
 Witton, with the tithe of the manor land, upon 
 condition of their paying 40 . . . per annum to Acre. 
 
 Sir John la Veile, or Velie, knight of Witton, 
 and Lettice his wife, released all their right in the 
 church of Hanninges for twenty marks in the 1st 
 of Ed. III. Also in the church at Witton, and the 
 mediety of Ridlington. 
 
 The prior and convent of Broomholme held 
 lands in fee farm of the prior and convent of Acre,
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 45 
 
 at the annual rent of fourteen marks, 5s. 4d., pay- 
 able at three terms by the year, viz. at the feast of 
 St. Michael, 64s., at the Purification, 64s., and at 
 Pentecost, 64s. 
 
 15th Ed. I. The prior had view of frankpledge, 
 a pillory, tumbrel, and wreck at sea, from Milkel- 
 ham, to the nieer that divides the hundreds of 
 Tunstead and Happing. 
 
 Pope Celestine, in the first year of his pontifi- 
 cate, confirmed to this house the churches of Bac- 
 ton, Casewyk, Paston, Witton, and Dilham. 
 
 Pope Gregory, in his thirteenth year, confirmed 
 Hanninges church, appropriated to them, but a 
 vicarage was reserved. 
 
 King Edward II granted to the monks here the 
 manor of Blaketon, to hold in fee farm, at the 
 yearly rent of twenty pounds. 
 
 Besides the churches before mentioned, license 
 was granted, in the 30lh of Ed. Ill, to appropriate 
 the church of Warham, in Norfolk, and a similar 
 license was given, in the 8th of Richard II, to 
 appropriate that of Bardwell, in Suffolk. 
 
 14th Richard II. Roger Crispin, of Sprowston, 
 surrendered, by fine, Felthorpe, to John Aslakc, of 
 Broomholme. 
 
 In the register of Broomholme, fol. 4.'3, it appears 
 that there was a controversy between Sir William 
 de Gyncy and the prior, about the advowson of the 
 church at Dilham, and Sir William covenanted 
 to release and levy a fine, the prior paying him
 
 46 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 forty-five marks of silver, and to deliver a deed, 
 under seal, dated at Crostvvick, 2 Ed. I, reserving 
 to himself the right to his chapel there, and the 
 services of the prior's tenant. 
 
 In the 9th Ed. II, Lawrence de Reppe, prior of 
 Broomholme, had a lordship at Edingthorpe ; and 
 in the 16th year of the same reign Lawrence died, 
 possessed of a manor held by the Earl Warren, 
 by the service of ten shillings per annum, and 
 valued at one hundred shillings per annum, and 
 left two daughters and co-heiresses, one of whom 
 brought it to John de Wilby, or Willoughby, in 
 the 18th year of the said reign. In 1302 the prior 
 of Broomholme was rector impropriate. In 1318, 
 Francis de Trois, instituted rector, having a right 
 to the tithes of certain lands in this parish, which 
 were detained from him by the prior, on a suit, 
 recovered his right to them. 
 
 In the register of the priory is an entry of a deed 
 of agreement, about the 14th Edward 1, between 
 Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, and John de Honing, 
 whereby the earl releases all his right of the lands 
 of the said John, that they shall not be amerced 
 at his court-leet at Bacton for breach of assize, &c. 
 
 In the reign of this king the prior was obliged 
 to pay to the abbot of St. Bennet of Holme 
 £4 10s. per annum, for two parts of the tithe of 
 the demesnes of John de Veile, in Honing, and 
 for tithes in Paston. 
 
 15th Edward III, a license in Mortmain was
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 4J 
 
 granted for the priory to purchase a fifth part of 
 the manor of Thomas Peche in Baketon, of Henry 
 de Sidestrand and Robert de Walesham, the manor 
 beinj? held by the king in capite as of his honor of 
 Eye. Robert de Skelton, clerk, and John de Hap- 
 pisbnrgh, rector of 43erd\vell, conveyed another part 
 of the same manor to the monks, to found a 
 chantry in the priory church for a monk to pray 
 for their souls. 
 
 20th Edward III, Robert Ufford, Earl of Suffolk, 
 was capital lord. 
 
 51st Edward III, Reginald de Dunham, heir of 
 John de Veile, gave to the abbey of Broomholme 
 eight acres of land in Ridlington and Broomholme, 
 and the advowson of a moiety of the church which 
 he held, with his manors of Fishley and Witton, 
 of the king, by keeping a goshawk for him. In 
 the reign of this king he was impleaded for stop- 
 ping the water course at Ridlington bridge, between 
 Witton and Ridlington, and ordered to let it have 
 its usual course. 
 
 The prior of Broomholme had a lordship in 
 Witton of the priory of Castle Acre, in the reign of 
 Richard I, when a controversy arose; the priory 
 of Broomholme used to pay to that of Castle Acre 
 thirteen marks, 8s. 8d. per annum for the same ; 
 but having improved the said farm and lordship, 
 it was agreed that, for the future fourteen marks 
 and five shillings and four pence should be paid to 
 it per annum. To this agreement William de
 
 48 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 Glanville, patron of the priory of Broomholme, 
 set his seal. 
 
 Ralph, son of Richard de Witton, gave by deed, 
 without date, several lands here. 
 
 Lawrence Attehill de Witton released to the 
 said prior all his right with certain free tenants, 
 and a piece of common. 
 
 Roger Baxter of Witton gave lands also to the 
 said prior, who was retained, 9th Edward II, as 
 lord; and the temporalities were £9 2s. 9d. 
 
 Besides the before mentioned grants, &c. the 
 priory had temporalities of the following parishes : 
 Crostwick, (near Hainford) Felthorpe, Barton 
 Turf, Dilham, Paston, Sloley, Tunstead, North 
 Walsham, Westwick, Fishley, Brumstead, Hap- 
 pisburgh, &c. 
 
 Blomefield mentions amongst the benefactors 
 Henry I after 1113, and Sir John Fastolf in 1459. 
 
 Hearne, in his preface to Adam de Dornerham, 
 p. 58, has printed a grant from Richard de Paston 
 to the priory of Broomholme of certain rents for 
 keeping their books in repair : — copied from an old 
 ledger book pertaining to the priory, which Feb. 8, 
 1726, was in the hands of Mr. Paston of Pauntly, 
 in Gloucestershire. 
 
 At the time of the Norwich taxation, 1291, it 
 had rents in 56 parishes in Norfolk and Norwich. 
 
 £ s. d. 
 Norfolk, 56 parishes . . 74 1 7 7 
 Suffolk, 16 parishes ... 54 18 4
 
 AND GEOLOGY OK BACTON. 49 
 
 The endowment before the Dissolution com- 
 prised the impropriation of nine churches in Nor- 
 folk, and four in Suffolk, ten manors and possessions, 
 lands and interests in fifty-eight parishes. 
 
 In the 26th year of Henry VIII, the gross revenues 
 of this priory were rated at .£144 19s. Ofd., the net 
 income at £100 5s. 3|d. 
 
 K
 
 i() THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 GEOLOGY, ETC. 
 
 The village of Bacton is situated in a valley, 
 encompassed on both sides by rising land. Its 
 cliffs do not extend to a greater height than 
 twenty feet above the surface of the beach ; while 
 those of Happisburgh, Paston, and Mundesley rise 
 from fifty to one hundred feet. 
 
 The cliffs generally consist of clay, sand, and 
 loam. By some writers they have been termed Mud 
 Cliffs, from their dark colour and general appear- 
 ance. Mr. Lyell includes them in a series called 
 the Boulder Formation. 
 
 Mr. Woodward, in his Outline of the Geology 
 
 of Norfolk, considers them to be of diluvial origin, 
 but upon close inspection they are found to contain 
 strata and fossils which partake of the characters, 
 and may be ascribed to various parts of the tertiary 
 period. 
 
 The cliffs form part of an extensive series extend- 
 ing from Happisburgh lighthouses to Weybourne, 
 north-west of Cromer, comprising a distance of 
 about twenty miles, and are supposed continuously 
 to rest upon chalk. 

 
 Fi 9 .1. 
 
 i a 
 
 References to Tig. 1 and 0. 
 
 1. Beach, blue clay and lignite 
 
 2. Fresh water 
 
 3. Ferruginous gravel 
 
 4. Crag 
 
 5. Chalk beach 
 
 
 r^2 
 
 Sac ton Coal 6a/> 
 
 Hxston Hid 
 
 FyU
 
 Flake 2. 
 
 -ea 
 
 Walcct 6a/> 
 
 Bacton . friorf 
 
 am M m n 
 
 JCundsley „ A 
 
 Trimminpham. 
 
 Fi?5 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 K 
 
 r— ^r 
 
 ^ 
 
 A 
 
 
 c 
 
 
 V s 
 
 i 
 
 i\ 
 
 /7?<p-
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTOX. 51 
 
 In some places the cliffs are very regularly strati- 
 fied, presenting, at various parts, immense layers 
 of red and white sand ; but in other places they 
 are wholly devoid of stratification, exhibiting one 
 continuous mass of till. 
 
 The till prevails extensively near Happisburgh 
 and Mundesley, and occupies often nearly the 
 whole extent of the cliff. 
 
 The following division will give a pretty correct 
 idea of the position of the various strata. 
 
 s 1 Brown clay, containing bones of the 
 Diluvial ^ horse, ox, &c. 
 
 (2 Till 
 
 Newer J 3 Crag 
 
 Tertiary [ Pliocene { 4 Fresh water, lacustrine, lignite, &c. 
 
 Older ( 5 Blue clay ) containing the bones of 
 
 Pliocene j 6 Red gravel j £ephants, rhinoceros, 
 
 Eocene - r, , <j with bones of extinct 
 
 7 Green sand, < ,. 
 
 ' ( mammalia 
 
 Secondary 8 Chalk 
 
 The entire series of these cliffs bears evidence of 
 great and successive changes. The strata in many 
 places are folded and bent, 1 and superimposed upon 
 others which have undergone no dislocation what- 
 ever. On the till, with an even horizontal surface, 
 beds of laminated clay and sand are seen to repose, 
 succeeded by vertical, bent, and contorted beds, 
 having a covering of coarse gravel and flints. 
 
 Small pits or furrows may be seen between 
 Bacton and Mundesley, at various distances from 
 
 i Section 6, (d.) 
 
 E 2
 
 52 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 the top of the cliffs, filled with fragments of white 
 chalk; regular strata being superimposed. 2 Many 
 of these furrows are several feet in width and 
 depth. In the till to the east of Bacton these 
 furrows are again largely developed. 
 
 The till and marl, layers of which are met with 
 towards Mundesley, frequently present grooved sur- 
 faces, 3 and at different places appear to dip into 
 the beach, the grooves left being filled with super- 
 imposed sand. The gravel also takes a like dip. 
 
 While, on the one hand, there are evidences 
 which prove the slow deposition of some of these 
 strata, on the other there are proofs of great con- 
 vulsions and derangement. 
 
 Before proceeding to a regular description of 
 the separate strata it may be interesting to inquire, 
 
 IS CHALK THE IMMEDIATE BED ON WHICH THE 
 
 STRATA RESTS ? 
 
 It is very probable that chalk is the immediate 
 bed. 
 
 First. About half a mile north-west of Mundeslev, 
 about low water mark, the chalk is met with, and 
 for upwards of a mile ; forms the beach. Near 
 Trimmingham are three very remarkable protuber- 
 ances which rise up and form a part of lofty cliffs. 4 
 
 Further northward masses of chalk are included 
 in the drift, or crop out in the interior at a short 
 
 "- Section 7, (cc.) s Section 8. 4 Section 2, (fig. 5.)
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. f>.^ 
 
 distance from the shore, as at Overstrain!, near 
 Cromer, where a pit has been worked, in which 
 the chalk is in a very disturbed and shattered state. 
 
 At Cromer the chalk has been again detected, 
 and is everywhere the fundamental rock lying about 
 the level of low water, and rising on the north of 
 that town to the height of some yards above that 
 level. At Sherringham it ascends above high water 
 mark, and enters largely, from thence to Weybourne, 
 into the strata of the cliffs. 
 
 From the appearance then of so much chalk in 
 the immediate neighbourhood, and some of it 
 apparently in an undisturbed state, as may be seen 
 by its horizontal layers of flint at Sherringham, 
 beyond doubt its existence may be concluded both 
 to the east as well as the north. 
 
 Secondly. In the year 1H36, the humerus bone, 
 probably of the Great Mastodon, was found at 
 Bacton after a very high tide, one side of which, 
 from the appearance it presents, must have reposed 
 upon the chalk. This bone was discovered in the 
 red gravel, which, in many places, is the nearest 
 bed to the chalk. Fragments of chalk are attached 
 to the bone. 
 
 Having offered the facts upon which my opinion 
 of this probability is based, I proceed to a descrip- 
 tion of the strata at Bacton, as they occur in the 
 order of superposition, and commence with the
 
 54 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 TILL. 
 
 This term is a provincial word, widely used in 
 Scotland for similar masses of unstratified matter, 
 which contain boulders, and the same term has 
 been applied by Mr. Lyell to this part of the Nor- 
 folk strata. 
 
 The till is of a dark blue colour, somewhat 
 resembling that of the London clay, and has been 
 classed bv some writers with that formation, because 
 of the boulders in which it abounds. Mr. Wood- 
 ward calls it blue clay. Between this and the 
 regular blue clay, however, a positive distinction 
 must be made. 
 
 This till forms a large portion of the cliffs between 
 Happisburgh and Mundesley, rising in some places 
 from twenty to nearly eighty feet in perpendicular 
 height. The whole of its organic remains appear 
 to have been washed from other formations to be 
 deposited in it, and it contains, mingled with them, 
 fragments of almost every rock of the secondary 
 and primary series ; comprehending immense blocks 
 of granite, porphry, greenstone, oolite, lias, chalk, 
 pebbles, trap, micaceous chist, sandstones of various 
 kinds, chert, marl, &c. &c. 
 
 Amongst the fossils found in the till, the follow- 
 ing may be mentioned. 
 
 Littorina littorea from the Crag 
 
 Cardium 
 
 um ~i 
 
 Y fragrm 
 
 rp !!■ t nients
 
 AXD GEOLOGY OF 13ACTOX. 
 
 55 
 
 Gryphea .... 
 Pholas crispata 
 Pholadomya murchisoni 
 Cardium hillanum 
 Isocardia tener 
 Avicula inaequivalvis . 
 
 — ovalis . 
 
 — media . 
 Plagiostema punctatnni 
 Terebratula crumena 
 Ammonites jaculates . 
 
 — rotiformis 
 
 — maculatus 
 
 — heretophylla 
 
 — taylorii 
 
 — serratus 
 Hamites gigas . . 
 Belernnites electrinus 
 
 — mucronatus 
 Pyrites 
 
 Lias 
 
 Clay 
 
 Inferior oolite 
 
 Green sand 
 
 Kelloways rock 
 
 Inferior oolite 
 
 Coral rag 
 
 London clay 
 
 Lias 
 
 Mountain limestone 
 
 Lias 
 
 Chalk 
 
 Limestone 
 
 Chalk 
 
 Echinus 
 
 Fragments of wood probably from the forest bed 
 
 Jet 
 
 Teeth and bones of Ich- 
 thyosaurus .... Lias 
 
 In consequence of the peculiarity which has 
 been already named as relating to the origin of its 
 organic remains, the till cannot be distinctly referred 
 to either the fresh water or marine formations. 
 Near Happisburgh it is much intermixed with 
 chalk.
 
 56 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 The next stratum, as we descend beneath the till, 
 is the 
 
 CRAG, 
 
 A layer of which, between the watch-house and coal 
 gaps, has been termed by Mr. Lyell hard ferruginous 
 crag. It consists of several thin plates containing 
 compressed wood, fragmentary and whole shells, 
 intermixed with clay, gravel and white sand. This 
 bed forms a kind of dip towards the north-west, 
 having a support of red sand on the one side, and 
 green sand on the other. 
 
 This layer I met with in my researches during 
 the year 1839, and on communicating the result of 
 my labours to Mr. J. B. Wigham of Norwich, for 
 whose inspection I sent some of the shells, &c. 
 that gentleman pronounced it to be a section of 
 the crag which is more largely developed at Cromer, 
 Runton, and Weybourne. 
 
 The section marked 4 will illustrate its position. 
 
 1. Green sand, i, containing shells from the beach 
 upwards. 
 
 2. Red sand, j, on the opposite side. 
 
 3. Hard crag, g, first layer beginning in the red 
 sand. 
 
 4. Green sand, i, dividing the upper from the 
 lower crag. 
 
 5. Red sand, f, h. 
 
 6. Upper crag, g, dividing the red sand, f, h, and 
 containing shells, bones, and seed vessels. 
 
 7. White sand, veined with clay, d, e.
 
 AND GEOLOGY OK BACTON. 5/ 
 
 8. Purple clay, c. 
 
 9. Brown clay, b. 
 
 The whole height of the cliff is about twenty feet. 
 
 I have seen this section very low after high tides, 
 and noticed beneath the green sand the red gravel 
 which contains the elephant remains. 
 
 The shells obtained from the crag are 
 
 1. Littorina littorea 6. Fusus contrarius 
 
 2. Mytilus antiquorum 7. — striatus 
 
 3. Scalaria greenlandica 8. Cardium, fragments 
 
 4. — minuta 9. Turbinolia 
 
 5. Astarte plana 
 
 With these shells were vertebrae of fish, corres- 
 ponding with those found in the crag at Sutton in 
 Suffolk, and at Norwich ; also scales of fish, bones 
 and teeth of fish, and bones, teeth, and jaws of 
 rodenta. Mr. Lyell mentions the rodenta as being 
 found at Norwich, and names it "Arvieola ?" In this 
 deposit also occur the bones of larger mammalia, 
 probably a species of deer, with the remains of birds. 
 
 The vegetable remains consist of wood, grass, 
 reed, fir cones, seed vessels and fruit. One of the 
 seed vessels resembles in share that of Ceretophyl- 
 lum demersum, figured by Mr. Brown, (English 
 Botany, 197) but is without the lobes. 
 
 The green sand contains but two species of shells. 
 
 This bed of fossils seems to extend to some dis- 
 tance inland ; for I have been informed that, when 
 excavating a well near Bacton green, about 300 
 yards from the beach, this same crag was met with.
 
 58 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 Between Bacton coal gap and Mundesley, ver- 
 tical layers of crag occur, 5 composed of thickly 
 cemented fragments of shells. 
 
 Immediately beneath the crag occur those for- 
 mations which are generally termed Fresh Water, 
 consisting of lignite and lacustrine deposits. 
 
 LACUSTRINE. 
 
 At several spots between Happisburgh and 
 Mundesley these deposits may be examined. They 
 contain many species of shells, with fish and bones 
 of mammalia. 
 
 The first of these occurs at a place called Ostend, 
 between Happisburgh and Bacton, about half a 
 mile from the latter place. It is composed of 
 bluish mud, with occasional patches of brown 
 clay, and extends several hundred yards along the 
 beach. This formation I discovered in August, 
 1841. 
 
 I have obtained from this place the following 
 shells : 
 
 1. Cyclas cornea 6. Planorbis vortex 
 
 2. — pusilla 7. Cypris 
 
 3. Succinea intermedia 8. Unio or Anodon 
 
 4. Paludina 9. Ancylus lacustris 
 
 5. Valvata 
 
 Under this bed a greenish kind of mud occurs 
 intermixed with sand, containing various mamma- 
 
 5 Section 5, (d.)
 
 - -^
 
 1 
 
 «-*. 
 
 
 >tf 
 
 ■• 

 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 5i> 
 
 lian and other remains. The following may be 
 particularly named. 
 
 Elephas primogenus, — teeth and jaws. 
 . Deer, — bones and horns of two kinds. 
 
 Rodenta, — bones, jaws, and teeth of four species, 
 (probably arvicola, shrew, hedgehog, and mole.) 
 
 Sauria, — bones and jaws. 
 
 I also here met with the remains of birds, fish, 
 seed vessels, and fragments of wood. Some of the 
 seed vessels belong to the Ceratophyllnm demersum. 
 
 In this mud I discovered, in the month of Sep- 
 tember, 1841, the group of bones given in the 
 accompanying plate. A little above the ordinary 
 low water mark, I had observed two ridges of blue 
 clay several feet apart, commencing to run out into 
 the sea at right angles to the line of coast. They 
 are marked from the surrounding surface of the 
 beach, by an irregular elevation of from one to two 
 feet, and include between them a hollowed space 
 which is only uncovered when the ebbing of spring 
 tides, and the prevalence of north westerly winds, 
 combine to repress the waters of the ocean beneath 
 their usual bounds. It is in this space that the 
 richest mine of organic deposit occurs, and it was 
 here that under peculiarly favourable circumstances 
 this particular group of bones was exposed. They 
 were surrounded by fragments of wood, grass, and 
 leaves, and were lying in all probability as they 
 had been originally deposited, excepting that the 
 many deficient bones which would be needed to
 
 60 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 complete the skeleton had been washed away 
 from them by the waves, which were but just 
 ceasing to break over them, and would have 
 returned in the course of a short hour to sweep 
 them also from the sphere of human observation. 
 None of them bear any traces that would lead to 
 the inference that they had been drifted to the 
 spot, but on the other hand all their grooves and 
 processes are perfect, as they would have been had 
 the animal been gently entombed soon after it had 
 ceased to live. A lower jaw, precisely analogous 
 to that of the animal, but not corresponding with 
 that of the plate in its articular process, although 
 of the opposite side, was removed from the same 
 place a short time after. It is worthy of remark, 
 that the scales and jaws of fishes are abundant 
 here, in the same deposit with the mammalian 
 bones. It would be difficult to determine whether 
 the latter may not have been received and deposited 
 here by the waters of some stream, in which the 
 former were fulfilling the purposes of life. Frag- 
 ments of cylindrical bones have also been found in 
 this locality, which, to all appearance, have belonged 
 to allied species. 
 
 On communicating the discovery to Professor 
 Owen, of the Royal College of Surgeons, and send- 
 ing a tooth for that gentleman's inspection, he 
 stated, that " there is sufficient to prove the tooth 
 to have belonged to a vegetable feeder : more allied 
 to anoplotherium than to any ordinary ruminant."
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON, ( > 1 
 
 The following is a description of the animal 
 as it appeared after restoration. 6 
 
 The inferior maxillary bone is perfect from the 
 sixth molar tooth to the alveoli of the incisor teeth, 
 the incisors themselves are wanting, and also the 
 angle and ramus of the zone. The entire length 
 of the fragment is five inches, and in front a smooth 
 surface, one inch and a half long, intervenes 
 between the first molar tooth and the irregular 
 termination. There is no trace of the canine 
 teeth ; the first molar tooth is but just rising from 
 the surface of the alveolus. The fifth consists of 
 three irregular cylinders united together, each con- 
 taining a hollow crescentric space on its grinding 
 surface. The structure being thus perfectly analo- 
 gous to that described by Cuvier, as belonging to 
 the seventh molar of the inferior jaw of the palo- 
 setherium. 
 
 Of the superior maxillary bone there are only a 
 \'q\v fragments. The third molar tooth, consisting 
 of a single irregular cylinder, and the fourth, fifth, 
 and sixth molars are each marked into double lobes 
 by a longitudinal furrow; these are all separate 
 from each other with irregular fragments of the 
 alveolar processes attached. Anteriorly is a frag- 
 ment marked by a smooth border, about an inch 
 and a half long, without any teeth, like the describ- 
 ed portion of the lower jaw. 
 
 '• For this description and restoration of the skeleton I am 
 indebted to tin kindness of Mr. R. J. Mann, of Buxton.
 
 62 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 Of the skull there are, the occipital protuherance, 
 one parietal bone, and a small fragment of the 
 second. The frontal bone divided by a mesial 
 suture, and terminating anteriorly in the nasal 
 spine. The perrous portions of both temporal 
 bones, and also the squamous portion of one 
 marked by the root of the zygoma. 
 
 Of the cervical vertebrae the atlas and axis are 
 wanting. The fourth and fifth are connected 
 together, their conjoined length being about two 
 inches ; the rest are deficient, excepting an irregular 
 fragment of the body of the last cervical or first 
 dorsal. 
 
 Of the dorsal vertebrae, there are only a few 
 imperfect fragments. 
 
 Of the ribs. The first is nearly perfect, marked 
 by its flatures ; also three others nearly perfect, 
 probably the fourth, fifth, and sixth. Portions of 
 the seventh and eighth, the groove being present, 
 but the heads wanting. Two or three fragments 
 of the lower parts of others. 
 
 Of the lumber vertebrae. There are four joined 
 together, the entire length of the four being six 
 inches, and the depth of each, from the tip of the 
 spinous process to the inferior edge of the body, 
 two inches and a quarter. The articulating and 
 transverse processes are nearly all perfect. The 
 bodies are cylinders flattened from above down- 
 wards. 
 
 Of the caudal vertebrae, there are six ; their
 
 AND GEOLOGY OP BACTON. t>3 
 
 conjoined length being four inches, and the last 
 appearing to be almost the termination of the tail. 
 
 The anterior extremity. The scapula has its 
 spine nearly perfect, its posterior termination only 
 being wanting with the posterior superior angle. 
 The glenoid cavity and supra spinous fcesa are 
 perfect. The infra spinous fcesa wants a portion 
 of its posterior border. The length from the 
 glenoid cavity to the posterior inferior angle is six 
 inches and a half. 
 
 The humerus. The head and liccipital groove 
 are perfect, the shaft is broken into several frag- 
 ments ; the inferior articular surface and fossa for 
 olecranon and coronoid processes are perfect. Its 
 probable length was nine inches, and the diameter 
 of his head two inches. 
 
 The ulna is perfect — nine inches long. Its ole- 
 cranon process being one inch in length. The 
 coronoid process is very slightly marked ; its shaft 
 is very slender, barely measuring a quarter of an 
 inch at its smallest portion. 
 
 The radius is flattened transversely and slightly 
 arched ; its length is eight inches, and its upper 
 and lower end are distinctly separated from the 
 shaft of the bone as epiphyses ; thus offering an 
 indication that the animal had not reached that 
 adult age when the epiphyses (originally centres of 
 ossification) are consolidated with the shaft of the 
 long bones. 
 
 Of the carpus, there are only two irregular
 
 64 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 fragments, with one or two pieces somewhat resem- 
 bling sesamoid bones. 
 
 Of the metacarpal bones, there are two nearly 
 perfect, three inches and a half long, with some 
 irregular fragments, appearing like portions of 
 another metacarpal bone, mixed with phalangeal 
 fragments. The paloeotherium of Cuvier is mark- 
 ed from the anoplotherium, by the presence of 
 three metacarpal bones in each extremity. 
 
 Of the pelvis, there is only the ilium and a 
 portion of the ischium, the acetabulum being 
 entirely wanting ; the length of the piece is four 
 inches and a half. 
 
 The posterior extremity. Of the femur. The 
 head is wanting, and the shaft is shattered to frag- 
 ments. The condyles are perfect, and measure 
 one inch and three quarters transversely. There 
 is a groove anteriorly for the tendon of the patella, 
 and a pit inferiorly for the crucial ligament. 
 
 Of the tibia. The head is separated as a dis- 
 tinct epiphysis, its transverse diameter is one inch 
 and three quarters. There is an irregular fragment 
 of the shaft about an inch long beneath the epi- 
 physis ; the rest is wanting, except three or four 
 inches, which are attached to the inferior articular 
 surface. This is marked by a transverse groove 
 anteriorly for the astragalus, and an inclined sur- 
 face posteriorly. 
 
 The patella is a curved elongated bone, about an 
 inch and a half long.
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTOX. 6"5 
 
 The fibula is entirely wanting. 
 
 Of the tarsus, there is only one distinct bone, 
 the fragment lying by it being probably a portion 
 of some larger bone. 
 
 Of the metacarpal bones, two are nearly perfect, 
 measuring four inches in length. There are also 
 fragments of other small cylindrical bones with 
 one perfect phalanx. 
 
 The bones described all appear to belong to the 
 same side. The head of the tibia is the only por- 
 tion of the opposite side that was found. 
 
 The shaft of another cylindrical bone, measuring 
 seven inches and a half, in length, was taken from 
 the same spot, but it appears not to have been a 
 portion of the same animal. 
 
 From the dimensions of the bones of the extre- 
 mities, it is probable that the height of the animal, 
 from the arch of the back to the ground, might have 
 been something less than three feet." 7 
 
 The fish accompanying these bones appear to 
 have suffered very little, if any, violence, scarcely a 
 scale being disarranged. 
 
 At no other spot along the coast have I been 
 able to find formations similar to that in which 
 these bones were found ; and from the vast quanti- 
 ties of chalk-flints deposited near it in an uninjured 
 state, and the great masses of chalk occurring here 
 in the till, the probability is that it may rest imrae- 
 
 7 It was probably distinct from the genus pulonotliorium, but a 
 pachyderm, and nearly allied to thai genus. 
 
 i
 
 ()G THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 diately upon the chalk, and belong to the eocene 
 period of the tertiary strata. 
 
 The skeleton of the Saurian, given in the an- 
 nexed plate, was found in this same deposit. 
 
 About 200 yards from the forest peat at Bacton 
 the second lacustrine bed occurs. 8 It is confined 
 to occasional patches about the middle of the cliff, 
 near the Watch house gap. The shells are de- 
 posited in thin layers of sand and blue clay, con- 
 taining much wood, which appears as if bored by 
 some insect. 
 
 The following shells I have been able to extract 
 in a pretty perfect state. 
 
 1. Limnea palustris 6. Paludina 
 
 2. Bulimus 7. Planorbis vortex 
 
 3. Planorbis 8. Cypris 
 
 4. Cyclas 9. Succinea intermedia 
 
 5. Valvata 
 
 Fir cones are met with in this bed, but in a very 
 decayed state. 
 
 The following is the section of the cliff from the 
 beach upwards : 
 
 1. Red gravel, containing bones of 
 
 elephants, &c. . . .3 feet 
 
 2. White sand . . . .3 feet 
 
 3. Brown clay . . . .4 feet 
 
 4. Blue clay and sand with patches of 
 
 shells . . . ... 7 feet 
 
 5. Brown clay . . . .5 feet 
 
 8 Section 3, (c.)
 
 
 ¥> 
 
 2
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 67 
 
 The whole height of the cliff is about twenty- 
 three feet. 
 
 I have not yet been able to detect any bones, or 
 scales of fish, nor elytras of beetles in this bed. 
 
 The third and last lacustrine formation is at the 
 village of Mundesley, and is distinguished from 
 the other cliffs by its dark muddy appearance. Its 
 height is about twenty feet, and it extends one 
 hundred yards along the beach. 
 
 Mr. Lyell, referring to this bed, says: "It con- 
 sists of brown, black, and grey sand, and loam, 
 mixed with vegetable matter, sometimes almost 
 passing into a kind of peaty earth, containing much 
 pyrites." It abounds with shells, elytras of beetles, 
 also scales and bones of fish. 
 
 The shells are, 
 
 1. Paludina impura 10. Planorbis leovis 
 
 2. — minuta 11. — nitidus 
 
 3. — Orbicularis 1'2. Cyclas pusilla 
 
 4. Valvata cristata 13. — Cornea 
 
 5. — piscinalis 14. Ancylus lacustris 
 
 6. Limnea palustris 15. Cypris 
 
 7. — glutinosa 16. Anodon anatinus 
 
 8. Planorbis albus 17. — Cygneus 
 
 9. — Vortex 
 
 These shells all belong to living freshwater 
 species. 
 
 The elytras of beetles are very common, some 
 of which belong to two species of Donacia, a tribe 
 which inhabit marshy grounds, and are the same 
 
 f 2
 
 ()8 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 as those found in the Lignite at Bacton. Others 
 belong to the Elator, Harpalidse, (H. Ophomis, or 
 H. Argutor) and Copris lunaris. 
 
 The scales and remains of fish are distinct from 
 living species, with the exception of those recog- 
 nized as belonging to a perch. 
 
 From a paper sent me by Mr. Lyell, I extract 
 the following, relative to these remains, which 
 were seen by M. Agassiz during his late visit to 
 England, from whose examination of them it 
 was apparent that they belonged to species not 
 identical with any European freshwater fishes 
 hitherto described, but they nevertheless belong to 
 an ichthyological fauna more modern and more 
 nearly resembling the recent than any other with 
 which M. Agassiz is acquainted in a fossil state. 
 It is a question, therefore, whether these unknown 
 fishes may not still inhabit the rivers and lakes of 
 the more northern parts of Europe or America, 
 especially as M. Agassiz is at present unacquainted 
 with the freshwater fishes of Norway, Sweden, 
 Spitzbergen, Iceland, Greenland, Labrador, and 
 Canada, and even the northernmost parts of Scot- 
 land and the Shetland Isles. 
 
 The mammalian remains which have been found 
 here, are the bones and horns of the Irish elk, 
 Cervus giganteus, and the head of the wild boar. 
 
 Of the vegetable remains the most common and 
 best preserved are the seed vessels of Ceretophyl- 
 lum demersum.
 
 • \ l> GKOLOGY OF BACTON. 69 
 
 LIGNITE. 
 
 This name has been given to extensive forest 
 beds containing much carbonized wood. 
 
 The deposit prevails very generally along the 
 Norfolk coast, and may be instructively examined 
 at Happisburgh, Bacton, Mundesley, Trimming- 
 ham, and Cromer. 
 
 At Bacton, extensive sections are laid bare after 
 high tides. They are mostly formed of black 
 peatv earth, which may be separated into thin 
 layers, and has generally an aluminous taste, and 
 abounds with pyrites. 
 
 At Bacton the depth of these sections, from the 
 top of the cliff, is about five feet, at Ostend, be- 
 tween Bacton and Happisburgh, about thirty, and 
 at Mundesley one hundred feet. 
 
 These deposits are occasionally mixed with masses 
 of red sand, containing pipes of hard clay. 
 
 This formation presents every appearance of a 
 wood having been overthrown and crushed in situ, 
 for after strong north-west winds, the stumps of 
 trees may be seen really standing, with the roots 
 strong, spread abroad, and intermingling with each 
 other. In the winter of 1840-41, I measured some 
 of these trunks, which were then exposed about a 
 loot from the root. One measured live feet eleven 
 inches round, and another live feet.
 
 70 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 At Ostend some of these trunks are several 
 yards round, and are thrown down indiscriminately 
 in the strata. Some measure as much as nine or 
 ten feet in length. Branches, leaves, crushed grass, 
 fir cones, and numerous seed vessels occur. Those 
 of the oak and fir are distinguishable. 
 
 In some parts, as at Bacton, elytras of beetles, 
 with mammalian remains, occur. The principal 
 elytras are of the tribe Donacia. When first 
 removed from the earth they are very brilliant, but 
 the colours soon fade upon exposure to the air. 
 
 The mammalian remains include bones and teeth 
 of the 
 
 Deer Ox and 
 
 Horse Arvicola. 
 
 Whilst, at Bacton, this bed is formed of black 
 peaty earth, at Ostend it is mixed with a greenish 
 sand. Mr. Lyell speaks of that at Happisburgh as 
 " laminated blue clay, about one foot and a half in 
 thickness, part of the clay being bituminous, and 
 inclosing compressed branches and leaves of trees." 
 
 Mr. R. C. Taylor, in his Geology of Eastern 
 Norfolk, observes of the deposit generally : — " It 
 consists of forest peat, containing fir cones and 
 fragments of bones ; in others, of woody clay ; and 
 elsewhere, of large stools of trees, standing thickly 
 together, the stems appearing to have been broken 
 off about eighteen inches from the base. They are 
 evidently rooted in the clay, or sandy bed, in which 
 they originally grew, and their stems, branches,
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 7 1 
 
 and leaves, lie around them, flattened by the pres- 
 sure of from thirty to three hundred feet of diluvial 
 deposits. It is not possible to say how far inland 
 this subterranean forest extends ; but that it is not 
 a mere external belt is obvious, from the constant 
 exposure and removal of new portions at the base 
 of the cliffs. 
 
 The Rev. James Layton, cited by Mr. Fairholme 
 in his Geology, states in a letter, " the line of 
 crushed wood, leaves, grass, &c. frequently forming 
 a bed of peat, extends just above low water mark. 
 About this stratum, numerous remains of mammalia 
 are found, the horns and bones of at least four kinds 
 of deer, the ox, the horse, hippopotamus, rhinoce- 
 ros, and elephant. These fossil remains are found 
 at Happisburgh, and its neighbourhood, on the 
 denuded clay shore : at Mundesley they are found 
 in the cliff." 
 
 This forest appears to extend far inland, for I have 
 been credibly informed, that when the river Ant 
 (North Walsham canal) was cut, a bed of peat was 
 met with, precisely the same as that before described, 
 containing fir cones and nuts, with bones of the 
 deer and other animals. 
 
 A section of the same kind of strata may be seen 
 at that part of the river which passes Mr. Partridge's 
 mill, on the North Walsham road, and is distin- 
 guished by its black colour, and by its containing 
 wood, seed vessels, leaves and grass.
 
 72 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 This stratum may be seen as the underlying- 
 formation along the whole line of beach from 
 Happisburgh to Mundesley. 
 
 Mr. Lyell mentions this forest bed as having 
 been seen also at Sidestrand, about a mile and a 
 half north-west of Trimminghatn, where the cliff, 
 composed of drift, is one hundred and twenty feet 
 high. It consists of beds of laminated blue clay 
 and sand, six or seven feet thick, in which are some 
 stumps of trees three feet in diameter, broken off 
 to within a few inches of the roots, which spread 
 for a distance of several feet on all sides. At one 
 point near the bottom of this cliff, a stratum of 
 clay has been seen, in which freshwater shells, of 
 the genus Unio, abound, apparently Unio ovalis. 
 
 At Cromer Mr. Simons has observed beneath 
 the drift, several feet below high water mark, a 
 bed of lignite, in which were found the seeds of 
 plants, and the wing case of a beetle. This lig- 
 nite contains coniferous wood and cones of the 
 Pinus abies, or spruce fir, a northern species not 
 indigenous to Britain. 
 
 Mr. Simons also saw at Cromer ten or more 
 trees, in the space of half an acre, exposed below 
 the cliffs eastward of that town, the stumps being 
 a few inches, or all less than a foot, in vertical 
 height, some of them no less than nine or ten feet 
 in girth, the roots spreading from them on all sides 
 throughout a space twenty feet in diameter.
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 7-* 
 
 Mr. Richard Taylor believes this bed, as visible 
 at Happisburgh, to be an extension of the well- 
 known stratum at Watton cliff, and Harwich. 
 " There is," he says, " evidence sufficient to prove 
 that it extends more south than Palling, even as 
 low down as Winterton, and Caister, also at Low- 
 estoft." 
 
 The last two strata nearest the chalk are the 
 
 BLUE CLAY AND RED GRAVEL. 
 
 These two beds seem to have been deposited con- 
 temporaneously, as they are much intermixed, and 
 everywhere contain the same species of mammalian 
 remains. From the unusual quantity of bones con- 
 tained in these strata, they have been provincially 
 termed the Bone Rocks, but from the immense 
 quantity of elephants' bones annually exhumed, 
 they may, for the sake of distinction, be denomi- 
 nated the Elephant Beds. 
 
 The blue clay, in some places, is regularly de- 
 posited upon the red gravel. 
 
 The red gravel is composed of rolled materials, 
 which no doubt have been brought to this place 
 from some distance. It comprehends a mixture 
 of red sand and gravel, ferruginous and ochraccons 
 nodules, blue clay, peat, sulphur, loam, flints, peb- 
 bles, masses of granite, porphry, fragments of, ami 
 whole bones, and is much mineralized by iron.
 
 74 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 Mr. R. Taylor describes it " as varying in appear- 
 ance from a red ferruginous sand to an ochraceous 
 coarse gravel, cemented by iron, and often divided 
 into septa by a coarse ferruginous kind of crystal- 
 lization, accompanied by thin flattened and circular 
 cakes of very hard argillaceous red coloured stone. 
 
 This formation varies from one and a half to 
 two feet in thickness, and has been traced to some 
 distance out, beneath the sea, off Happisburgh, by 
 the teeth and bones which have from time to time 
 been brought up while dredging for oysters. This 
 oyster bed was discovered in the year 1820, and 
 during the first twelve months many hundreds of 
 the molar teeth of elephants were found here and 
 destroyed by the fishermen. 
 
 The Rev. James Layton states that he had 
 seventy grinders in his possession, also a fine tusk 
 of the Elephas primogenus, the finest this coun- 
 try has yet produced, which was dredged up in 
 1826, from this spot. It measured nine feet six 
 inches along its curvature, and weighed ninety- 
 seven pounds. This great mine, however, has for 
 some years been closed up, by a large bank of sand 
 formed by the sea. 
 
 These rocks are traceable to a considerable dis- 
 tance beyond Cromer. 
 
 The following mammalian remains have been 
 found in them.
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. /5 
 
 RUM IN AT A. 
 
 1. Bos taurus 5. Cervus dama 
 
 '2. — urus 6. — elephas 
 
 3. Cervus giganteus 7. Anthracotherium 
 
 4. — alces 
 
 RODENTIA. 
 
 8. Castor fiber 9. Arvicola 
 
 PACHYDERMATA. 
 
 11. Sus 10. Rhinoceros leptorhi- 
 
 12. Aper mus 
 
 13. Equus caballus 17. Elephas primogenus 
 
 14. Mastodon 18. — asiaticus 
 
 15. Hippopotamus 19. — africanus 
 Great quantities of the bones of these animals 
 
 are annually destroyed by the action of the waves 
 of the sea, and by the carelessness with which they 
 are extracted by individuals eager to obtain speci- 
 mens. 
 
 In a section of this stratum, west of the coal 
 gap, was found in the year 1836*, an enormous 
 humerus, probably of the Great Mastodon, after 
 a very high tide. This magnificent bone is now in 
 the possession of Miss Anna Gurney, of North- 
 repps Cottage, near Cromer. To the kindness of
 
 7 ( > THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 this lady I am indebted for the measurement and 
 mention of it in the present work. 
 
 This bone measures in length . 4 ft. 4 in. 
 
 Its dimensions round the left end are 3 ft. in. 
 
 Right end .... 3 ft. 3 in. 
 
 Middle . . .. . . 2 ft. 3 in. 
 
 It is in a remarkable state of preservation. 
 
 In the month of February, 1841, the portion of 
 a tibia, belonging, probably, to the same animal, 
 was also found, and is in Miss Gurney's posses- 
 sion. About the same time a tooth was extracted 
 from the same layer, which, from the description 
 given me, I suppose to have belonged to this animal. 
 
 In the red gravel I met with seed vessels, and 
 elytras of beetles, but in a very imperfect state ; 
 also fir cones and fruit. The fir cones differ some- 
 what from those found in the lignite. 
 
 At Mundesley, large roots and stools of trees, 
 standing erect, with others thrown down, occasion- 
 ally present themselves in this stratum. 
 
 In concluding this geological sketch of the neigh- 
 bourhood of Bacton, a few remarks upon the pro- 
 bable changes which the cliffs have undergone, 
 and of whfch the appearances they at present offer 
 may be taken as indications, may not prove unac- 
 ceptable to my readers. 
 
 Various writers on the geology of Norfolk have 
 attempted to account for those appearances of 
 mighty changes and evidences of derangement 
 which are everywhere visible in its strata ; but still
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 77 
 
 no correct theory appears to have been established. 
 Recent investigations overthrow the past, and that 
 which seemed to be " goal to-day, is starting post 
 to-morrow." 
 
 Mr. Woodward's opinion is that the chalk, 
 which has been traced as. the substratum of nearly 
 all Europe, emerging from the waters of the ocean, 
 became inhabited by herds of elephants, together 
 with the mastodon, and other tenants of the forest ; 
 during this period an estuary existed a sufficient 
 period to silt up its bed to the level of the adjacent 
 country, and that its residuum may be seen in the 
 brick earth of the crag district, and to a consider- 
 able extent on each side of the same. That the 
 changes effected by the deluge, were the disruption 
 of the then surface, and the filling up and levelling 
 its inequalities by the detritus ; by which catastrophe 
 the eastern side of the country was covered with a 
 large quantity of the wreck of the lias, and the 
 western with a similar portion of the oolite series. 
 That at a subsequent period, and prior to the sepa- 
 ration of this country from the continent, there 
 existed large lakes in different parts of that which 
 is now the county of Norfolk, and probably in that 
 part occupied by the German ocean, lying between 
 Norfolk and Holland. These were surrounded by 
 extensive forests ; these forests were inhabited by 
 herds of deer, oxen, &c. The chalk was subse- 
 quently disrupted, separating this country from the
 
 78 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 continent, at the same time forming the valleys of 
 eastern Norfolk and the drainage of the country. 
 These valleys were aftenvards occupied by the 
 waters of the ocean ; and lastly, that the waters 
 retreated from these valleys about the time of the 
 Norman conquest, leaving the country as it now 
 appears. 
 
 Mr. R. Taylor, in the Philosophical Magazine 
 for April, 1827, supposes that these accumulations, 
 with all their imbedded bones, took place before 
 the dispersion of the diluvial detritus. 
 
 Mr. Lyell makes the following remarks: "It is 
 evident that the entire formation of the mud cliffs, 
 whether freshwater or drift, belong to the latest 
 part of the tertiary period, the only doubt being 
 whether it should not rather be considered as post 
 tertiary, or referrible to a class of deposits which 
 contain exclusively shells of recent species." 
 
 Speaking of the perplexing state of the strata, 
 that gentleman continues : "In no other part of 
 our island, or perhaps in Europe, are there evidences 
 of local disturbances on so great a scale, and of an 
 equally modern date." The age of the crag agrees 
 with that of Norwich in the species of marine shells, 
 &c, which it contains. The freshwater deposits 
 agree very nearly in age with those of Sutton in 
 Suffolk, Grays in Essex, Cropthorn in Worcester- 
 shire, and others ; which contain nearly the same 
 species, with fossil bones of extinct quadrupeds.
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 7$ 
 
 The drift is proved to be newer than the Nor- 
 wich crag and some of the freshwater beds. The 
 section at Mundesley seems to prove, that in some 
 places the deposition of the drift was going on 
 contemporaneously with the accumulation of the 
 freshwater beds. The fluvio-marine contents of 
 the Norwich crag, imply the former existence of 
 an estuary on the present site of Norfolk and Suf- 
 folk, including the eastern coast of Norfolk. Into 
 this estuary, or bay, one or many rivers entered, 
 and in the strata then formed, were imbedded the 
 remains of animals and shells of the land, river, 
 and sea. Certain parts of this area seem at length 
 to have been changed from sea into low marshy 
 land, either because the sea was filled up with sedi- 
 mentj or because its bottom was upheaved, or by 
 the influence of both these causes. Two conse- 
 quences followed. 1st. Trees grew on some places 
 gained from the sea. 2ndly. In other spots fresh- 
 water deposits were found in ponds, or lakes, and 
 in the channels of sluggish rivers, or grounds oc- 
 casionally overflowed by streams. Next succeeded 
 a period of gradual subsidence, by which some of 
 the lands supporting the forests were submerged, 
 the trees broken down, and their roots and stumps 
 buried under new strata. At the same time the 
 freshwater beds, whether resting on crag or imme- 
 diately on chalk, became covered with drift, except 
 in certain places, such as Mundesley, where, for a 
 small space, the accumulation of drift seems to have
 
 80 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 been entirely prevented, perhaps by a continued flow 
 of a small body of fresh water. 
 
 The gradually stratified arrangement of a large 
 part of the drift, and the different materials of the 
 alternating strata, clearly demonstrate that it was 
 formed gradually, and not by any single or sudden 
 flood. The boulders it contains seem to imply, 
 that while a great proportion of the mass may have 
 been derived from neighbouring regions, part at 
 least has come from a great distance. 
 
 Similar formations occur in Cambridgeshire, 
 Scotland, Sweden, Denmark, Holstein, &c. " It 
 may be said,' 1 says Mr. Lyell, " to extend uninter- 
 ruptedly from Sweden, through the Danish islands, 
 Holstein, and the countries, of Hamburgh, Bremen, 
 and Osnabruck, to the borders of Holland,, and 
 then to appear again with the same characters in 
 Norfolk and Suffolk. 
 
 Throughout this track, however, the average 
 number and dimensions of the included erratic 
 blocks, especially those of granite, porphry, gneiss, 
 and other crystalline rocks, diminish sensibly on 
 proceeding from north to south. 
 
 " Coast ice," continues Mr. Lyell, " and icebergs 
 have been instrumental in transporting much of 
 the large and small detritus in Scandinavia, at the 
 same period the effects of the same agency was 
 extended to the British seas, although on a smaller 
 scale."
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTON. 8] 
 
 Mr. Lyell further supposes these formations to 
 
 have been brought into their present contorted and 
 dislocated position by three kinds of mechanical 
 movement. 
 
 1. By ordinary subterranean movement, a gene- 
 ral subsidence took place over a considerable area. 
 Upon this supposition is explained the submerg- 
 ence and burial of the trees, the stools of which 
 are found in situ ; and this forest bed could not 
 have been brought up again, together with the in- 
 cumbent drift, to the level of low water, without 
 a subsequent upheaval nearly equal in amount to 
 the present subsidence. But such a depression and 
 re-elevation of a large tract may have taken place 
 slowly and insensibly, and without any derange- 
 ment of the stratification. A question would still 
 remain, whether such protuberances of chalk as 
 those at Trimmingham, and the inclination or ver- 
 tically of the associated drift should be attributed 
 to a local and violent movement from below, frac- 
 turing the chalk, and thrusting up portions of it 
 above the ordinary level of that formation. 
 
 2. By landslips and slides. We may imagine that 
 banks of sand and mud existed beneath the sea, in 
 which channels were occasionally excavated by 
 currents. If the cliff's of loam or sand bounding 
 this new channel give way, large masses may 
 descend bodily, and assume a vertical or curved 
 position. They may easily escape subsequent de- 
 nudation, because the direction of the currents is 
 
 G
 
 82 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 constantly shifting. Thus strata which have as- 
 sumed a vertical position, may be forced laterally 
 against the opposite sides of the channels, where 
 the beds have remained horizontal. Both the juxta- 
 position of vertical and horizontal beds, and the 
 super-position of disturbed to undisturbed strata, 
 may be caused in this manner. 
 
 3. By pressure of drift ice. " So many facts," 
 says Mr. Lyell, " have come to my knowledge, of 
 the manner in which masses of ice, even of mode- 
 rate size, in the Baltic, and still more in the gulf 
 of Sto Lawrence, push before them large heaps of 
 boulders, that I can scarcely doubt that lateral 
 pressure, exerted under favourable circumstances, 
 by drift ice on banks of stratified and incoherent 
 sand, gravel, and mud, is an adequate cause for 
 producing considerable flexure and dislocation. The 
 banks on which icebergs occasionally run aground, 
 between Baffin's Bay and Newfoundland, are many 
 hundred feet under water, and the force with which 
 they are struck will depend not so much on the 
 velocity, as the momentum of the large floating 
 islands. The same berg is often carried away by 
 a change of wind, and then driven back again 
 upon the same bank, or in other cases it is made 
 to rise and fall by the waves of the ocean, and may 
 thus alternately strike the bottom with its whole 
 weight, and then be lifted up again until it has 
 deranged the superficial beds over a wide area. 
 On these beds new and undisturbed strata may 
 afterwards be thrown down."
 
 AND GEOLOGY OK HACTON. 88 
 
 The geologist, roused from the sleep of indiffer- 
 ence by these indications of mighty convulsions 
 which have shaken the earth's surface long ages 
 hefore he had commenced to be, sees with astonish- 
 ment a mass of hard enduring chalk, where once 
 the ocean rolled its living waves, affording happi- 
 ness to countless myriads of sentient creatures ; 
 a desolating flood covers its surface, presenting an 
 immense Golgotha of mammalian remains ; upon 
 the subsiding of its waters, forest trees grow and 
 animals of various kinds sport in vast numbers 
 beneath their luxuriant shades ; in this forest lakes 
 abound, and many rivers pour their waters down to 
 give life and beauty to the scene. Again, by the 
 agency of some mighty stream, these animals are 
 deprived of existence, and their pleasures over- 
 whelmed in death. Over this, at various places, once 
 more rolls the great deep ; again it retires, leaving 
 as a record of its existence multitudes of its former 
 occupants contained in its debris ; then by the 
 action of some volcanic or other subterranean force, 
 these strata are variously bent and folded ; here 
 thrown in a slanting position ; there resting per- 
 pendicularly ; then presenting various grooves, and 
 now dipping deeply and lost altogether from the 
 eye. Upon the surface of the whole arc brought 
 extensive masses from the various rocks forming 
 the earth's crust ; showing that all have contributed 
 to throw a veil of mystery over these great catas- 
 trophes, so perplexing to the mind of man, but 
 
 g 2
 
 84 THE HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 clear to the mind of that Great Being who exists 
 as the very essence of intelligence itself. 
 
 And when, with feelings thus suggested, and 
 without any other aid than the simple observation 
 of what he sees, conjoined to calm reflection upon 
 what he has read and heard, his mind dwells upon 
 special facts, such as have been now presented in 
 this little work, although he may feel that he wants 
 depth of generalization and extent of research, to 
 enable him to mature anything like a perfect scheme, 
 still theory will rise before him and endeavour to 
 lead him from results to their cause. Such being 
 the nature of things, I may perhaps be allowed, 
 without attaching to them any undue weight, to 
 throw out the following suggestions, in the hope 
 that some trifling portions of them may be yet 
 found to annex themselves in the future to the 
 results of more matured observation. 
 
 1st. The chalk having been caused by some cen- 
 trifugal force to emerge from the ocean, was swept 
 by an extensive land flood, bringing with it from a 
 distance the pebbles, flints, blue clay, gravel, and 
 bones, which form the Elephant Bed. 
 
 2ndly. The flood having disappeared, the beds 
 which it had deposited became the pabulum of 
 vegetable life, and at last forest trees grew, some 
 portions still remaining as swampy spots, into 
 which running waters drained, so that here and 
 there lakes were formed. In these, and in the 
 streams, the fish and shells found a home, whose
 
 AND GEOLOGY OF BACTOX. 85 
 
 remains are now so abundant in the freshwater 
 formations, and into them were also swept at times 
 the deer and oxen of the forest. 
 
 3rdly. By a sudden subsidence, the forest was 
 partially overthrown and entirely submerged be- 
 neath the waters of the ocean. 
 
 4thly. While thus beneath the water, by some 
 uncertain mode of transport, the till, partially de- 
 rived from a distance, and partially from the neigh- 
 bouring formations, was deposited upon it, tilling 
 up some of the rivers and lakes, and leaving others 
 from some uncertain causes unoccupied. 
 
 othly. The cliffs were then elevated by subter- 
 ranean agency, being stamped by the action of 
 landslips, and by other means, with those disrup- 
 tions, contortions, furrows, and foldings, which are 
 now so clearly exhibited in their stratification. 
 
 The following are facts, bearing some relation 
 to these views. The mammalian remains found in 
 the red gravel and blue clay, are most of them 
 rolled and broken, appearing to have been trans- 
 ported from some distant locality. No perfect 
 group of bones, belonging to one animal, has been 
 yet found in the stratum. The rock is generally 
 composed of water-worn materials. Many of the 
 organic remains must have belonged to animals 
 inhabiting tropical climates, and no tropical seeds 
 or fruits have been discovered with them. The 
 bones arc accompanied by vertebrae and remains 
 of fish. One vertebra is of immense size, and may
 
 86 GEOLOGY OF BACTOX. 
 
 have belonged to a whale. In the red gravel I 
 found a spatangus, and a small species of gryphea. 
 The teeth and jaws of the arvicola, and seed 
 vessels, fir cones, and fruit, appear to have been 
 washed from the forest beds, like those at Bacton, 
 into the hard ferruginous crag. The author has 
 also found in the crag the scale of a fish which 
 bears a strong resemblance to the scales of the 
 perch, occurring in the freshwater formations of 
 Mundesley and Ostend. The probable inference, 
 therefore, is, that the lignite and freshwater form- 
 ations are the productions of an earlier period than 
 crag.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 HISTORY OF CLUNIAC MONKS. 
 
 St. Bernon of the family of the Earls of Burgundy and 
 Abbot of Gigni, seeing that the progress of corruption 
 Mas reducing the level of monastic sanctity, to save the 
 reputation of the system, founded this order, which, 
 although of the stock of St. Benedict, from their observ- 
 ing a different discipline, claimed a specific distinction. 
 
 In the year 910 he built a monastery for the reception 
 of Benedictine monks, in the town of Clugni, situated in 
 the Massonnois, a little province of France on the river 
 Garonne. 
 
 This monastery, by the conditions of its erection, was 
 put under the immediate protection of the holy see, with 
 a prohibition to all powers, both secular and ecclesiastical, 
 to disturb the monks in the possession of their effects, or 
 in the election of their abbots. In virtue hereof they 
 pleaded an exemption from the jurisdiction of the bishop, 
 and extended this privilege to all the houses dependent 
 on Cluny. This made the first congregation of several 
 houses under one chief immediately subject to the pope, 
 so as to constitute one body, or, as it is now called, one 
 religious order. Till then each monastery was independent 
 and subject to the bishop.
 
 88 APPENDIX. 
 
 Amongst those who also may be termed the fathers and 
 improvers of its discipline Father Mabillon mentions St. 
 Odo, St. Mayeul, St. Odillo, and St. Hugh ; but to St. 
 Odo principally is referred the advancement and progress 
 of the order. 
 
 Bernon began and governed it for several years, and St. 
 Odo, in the eleventh century, perfected and increased it. 
 
 The monks of Clugni, or Cluni, were remarkable for 
 their sanctity and discipline, which soon spread its fame 
 in all parts, and very soon new monasteries were built for 
 their reception in France, Germany, Spain, England, and 
 Italy. They also passed into the east, and there was 
 scarcely a place in Europe where their order was not 
 known. 
 
 They were strict in their imitation of ancient excellence, 
 rigid in their profession of poverty, industry, and piety. 
 They every day sung two solemn masses, at which a monk 
 of one of the choirs offered two hosts, though only five 
 communicated on Sunday ; or but three on ferias or com- 
 mon days. The other did, before dinner, and by way of 
 thanksgiving, receive the host which had not been conse- 
 crated, but only blessed. But at the solemn masses for 
 the dead, and on the three rogation days, both choirs 
 offered the hosts t On solemn festivals the deacon com- 
 municated of the host of the priest that said mass, and 
 the subdeacon of the others ; but on the three days before 
 Easter all the monks received the communion. If any 
 one would celebrate mass on Holy Thursday, before the 
 solemn mass was sung, he made no use of light, because 
 the new fire was not yet blessed. 
 
 In their regular exercises they so strictly observed 
 silence, as well by day as by night, that they would rather 
 have died than break it before the hour of prime. During 
 the hours of silence they made use of signs instead of
 
 APPENDIX. 89 
 
 words. After the 13th of November the elders staid in 
 the choir when matins were ended, and the young ones 
 went to the chapter-house to learn to sing. 
 
 When they were at work they recited the psalms. The 
 public declaring of their faults was in use amongst them. 
 •After complin they received no gifts, nor were the monks 
 ever permitted to eat any thing after that time. Ulclaric 
 gives us an instance in the person of a cellerer, who, though 
 he had been employed the whole day in receiving the wine 
 that was laid in for their store, yet could not obtain to eat 
 after complin. 
 
 After the 13th of September they had but one meal 
 allowed, except on festivals of twelve lessons, and within 
 the octaves of Christmas and the Epiphany, when they 
 had two. The remains of the bread and wine that were 
 served in the refectory were distributed among poor travel- 
 lers. Besides this, one year at the beginning of lent, they 
 distributed salt meat and other alms among 7000 poor. 
 
 The preparation they used for making the bread which 
 was to serve for the sacrifice of the altar, is worthy to be 
 observed. They first chose the wheat grain by grain, and 
 washed it very carefully, and being put into a bag appointed 
 only for that use, a servant, known to be a just man, 
 carried it in the bag to the mill, washed the grind stones, 
 and covered them with curtains above and below; and 
 having put on himself an alb covered his face with a veil, 
 nothing but his eyes appearing. The same precaution was 
 used with the meal ; it was not boulted till it had been 
 well washed, and the warden of the church, if he were 
 either priest or deacon, finished the rest, being assisted by 
 two other religious men, who were in the same orders, 
 and by a lay brother particularly appointed for that busi- 
 ness. Those four monks, when matins were ended, washed 
 their faces and hands. The first three of them put on
 
 90 APPENDIX. 
 
 albs, one of them washed the meal with clean water, and 
 the other two baked the host in the iron moulds ; so great 
 was the veneration and respect the monks of Cluny paid 
 to the Holy Eucharist. 
 
 Such was the point of honourable reputation in which 
 the order of Cluni, during the time of its prosperity, was 
 held, that, in the eleventh century, a bishop of Ostia, (the 
 future Urban II,) being officially present at a council in 
 Germany, suppressed in his signature his episcopal dignity, 
 and thought that he adopted a prouder title when he 
 subscribed himself Monk of Cluny and Legate of Pope 
 Gregory. 
 
 This institution was also much praised for its zealous 
 and active orthodoxy, and its devotion to the throne of 
 St. Peter; hence it nourished far and wide in power and 
 opulence, and numbered, in the following age, above 2000 
 monasteries which followed its appointed rules and adopted 
 principles. 
 
 These religious men lived under the rule of St. Benedict, 
 and wore a black habit. 
 
 The monastery of Cluni realized a reflected splendour, 
 from the fact, that Hildebrand within its walls fed his 
 youthful spirit on those dreams of universal dominion 
 which he afterwards attempted to realize ; it was there too 
 that he may have meditated those vast crusading projects 
 which were accomplished by Urban, his disciple. This 
 order was also raised much by the books of dialogues 
 written by Gregory the Great. 
 
 In this order was also trained Peter, abbot of Cluny, 
 surnamed the Venerable, who takes great pains to vindicate 
 the manners and customs of his monastery against objec- 
 tions, but whose writings seem to indicate, that the essence 
 of Christianity is placed more in frivolous punctilios and 
 insignificant ceremonies. This is he who received Peter
 
 APPENDIX. 91 
 
 Abelard in his afflictions with great humanity, and who 
 consoled Eloisa after his death by sending her, at her 
 request, the form of Abelard's absolution which that 
 unhappy woman inscribed on his tomb. 
 
 The principal monasteries in which the discipline and 
 rules of Cluni were observed, were those of Tulles in the 
 Limousin, Aurillac in Auvergne, Bourgdien and Massay 
 in Beni, St. Benet on the Loire in the Orleonis, St. Peter 
 le Vil at Lens, St. Allire of Clermont, St. Julian of Tours, 
 Sarlat in Pengon, and Roman Mourier in the country of 
 Vaux. This order was divided into ten parts ; viz. Dau- 
 phine, Auvergne, Poictiers, Santonge and Gascony in 
 France, Spain, Italy, Lombardy, Germany, and England. 
 
 All the monasteries of this order in England were 
 governed by foreigners, had more French than English 
 monks in them, and were not only subject to the foreign 
 houses of Cluni, La Charite, Sin Loire, and St. Martin 
 des Champs at Paris, but could be visited by them only. 
 None of their priors were elected by the respective con- 
 vents, but named by the above mentioned foreign house. 
 They could not receive the profession of novices in 
 England, nor could so much as any of their differences be 
 determined here ; but they were obliged in almost all cases 
 to go to their superiors beyond sea, by which means the 
 greatest part of their revenues were carried to those foreign 
 houses, and upon that account, during the wars with 
 France, the different establishments of this order were 
 generally seized into the king's hands as alien priories. 
 But after the petition to parliament at Winchester 4 Ed. 
 Ill, these inconveniences were by degrees removed : some 
 of their houses were in that and the following reign made 
 denizen. Bermondsey was made an abbey; and all of 
 them at last discharged from all manner of subjection and 
 obedience to the foreign abbeys: "but perhaps," says
 
 \)2 APPENDIX. 
 
 Tanner, "not till 36th Hen. VI, or A.D. 1457," when 
 three monks were sent from Cluni to desire restitution of 
 those possessions which had long been detained from 
 them, with leave to enter all places depending upon their 
 houses : but instead of obtaining what they desired, they 
 were deprived of the subjection of all houses of their 
 order in England. 
 
 Stevens dates the cutting off of these monasteries from 
 their obedience to the abbot of Cluni, as early as Henry 
 V, in consequence of the wars between the kings of France 
 and England : " Whereupon some of them," he says, " as 
 Lenton and Daventry, took out new foundation charters 
 and united themselves to the chapter and congregation of 
 the Black monks ; others, however," he adds, " remained 
 under the title and discipline of the order of Cluni, but 
 not under their subjection ; and all the priors subscribed 
 by the title of the Cluniac order to the deeds of their 
 surrender." 
 
 The houses of Cluni had pensions from the houses of 
 their order in England, called apportions, which probably 
 amounted in the whole to a large sum. For Cotton, in 
 his abridgment, p. 51, says, "The abbot of Cluni had a 
 pension from England of £2000 per annum;" and according 
 to Rymer, old edit. vol. 3, p. 1009, and Prynne's Records, 
 vol. 3, pp. 358 — 386, the foreigners sometimes demanded 
 occasional supplies from their houses here ; and even ran 
 them into debt. 
 
 Tanner says, there were twenty-seven priories and cells 
 of this order in England. But the monks who were 
 deputed to King Henry VI in 1457, complained that they 
 had been deprived of the obedience of thirty-eight. Dug- 
 dale, in his Monasticon Anglicanum, however, gives an 
 account of forty-two, exclusive of three cells, whose exist- 
 ence is not very distinctly described. These were Hitcham
 
 APPENDIX. 93 
 
 in Norfolk, Bablew in Somersetshire, and Man ton in 
 Rutlandshire. Stow mentions a hospital in the parish of 
 St. Andrew, Holborn ; another in the street without Al- 
 dersgate ; and another near Cripplegate : cells to the house 
 of Cluni in Florence, which were suppressed 3 Hen. V, 
 among the priories alien. Tanner says : " If there were 
 such, probably they were founded before the reign of King 
 Edward III, whose seizure of all estates belonging to the 
 French abbeys discouraged all foundations of that kind. 
 
 The greater part of the houses of the Cluniac order 
 were founded prior to the reign of Henry II. Slevesholm 
 in Norfolk was the last founded, about A.D. 1222. 
 
 Yet is there a sorrowful reflection which attends the 
 spectacle of this prosperity. Through all the parade of 
 wealth and dignity, we penetrate the melancholy truth, 
 that the season of monastic virtue and utility was passing 
 by, if indeed it was not already passed irrevocably ; and 
 rapidly the close embrace of the pontifical powers was 
 converting to evil the rational principles and pious purposes 
 of the original institution. 
 
 This order declined according to the course of human 
 institutions, through wealth, into indolence and luxury. 
 In the space of about two centuries it fell into obscurity. 
 Besides the riches which had rewarded and spoiled its 
 original purity another cause is mentioned as having con- 
 tributed to its decline, — the corruption of the simple rule 
 of St. Benedict, by the multiplication of vocal prayers, 
 and the substitution of new offerings and ceremonies for 
 the manual labour of former days. The ill effect of this 
 change was admitted by the venerable abbot in his answer 
 to St. Bernard. 
 
 Hovvbeit no flagrant immoralities had yet disgraced the 
 establishment of Cluni ; only it had attained a degree of 
 sumptuous refinement very far removed from its first
 
 94 APPENDIX. 
 
 profession. This degeneracy furnished a reason for the 
 creation of a new and rival community in its neighbour- 
 hood, who adopted the title of the Cistercian order. 
 
 The introduction of the Cluniac monks into England, 
 in the year 1077? arose from the following circumstance. 
 William de Warren, the first Earl Warren, Earl of Moreton 
 and Surry, and son-in-law to William the Conqueror, who 
 came into England with him, being on a pilgrimage to St. 
 Peter's at Rome with his countess the Lady Gundreda, in 
 their passage through France and Burgundy visited many of 
 the monasteries to make their orisons ; but understanding 
 in Burgundy that they could not in safety proceed with 
 their purpose, on account of the war which was then 
 carrying on between the pope and the emperor, they took 
 up their abode in the great monastery of St. Peter at 
 Cluni in that country, and there paid their devotions to 
 the saint. The appearances of sanctity, religion, and 
 charity which they met with in that abbey were great 
 beyond their expectation; and these together with the 
 special respect shown to them by the prior, in the abbot's 
 absence, and the whole convent, who admitted them to 
 their fraternity, charmed them, and raised their esteem 
 both for the order and house of Cluni above all others. 
 And having long before determined (by the advice of La- 
 franc, Archbishop of Canterbury,) to found some religious 
 house to make atonement for their sins, and for the 
 welfare of their souls, came to a resolution to found it for 
 the order of Clunial monks. Accordingly they soon after 
 sent over their request to Hugh abbot and the convent of 
 Cluni, that they would favour them with two, three, or 
 four monks out of their flock : and the intention was to 
 give them the church of St. Pancras, and to endow it 
 with lands and possessions for the support of twelve 
 Clunial monks, and to confirm the same to them by
 
 APPENDIX. 9") 
 
 charter. The abbot at first made great difficult}* in the 
 affair, and seemed unwilling to comply, as the proposed 
 place of abode for his monks was to be a long way off in 
 another land, and especially as the sea would be between 
 them and the parent convent ; but understanding at length 
 that the earl had obtained licence from King William to 
 introduce monks of their order into England, and having 
 himself applied to the king on that behalf, and being 
 satisfied of his approbation thereof, he became reconciled 
 to the proposal, and agreed to send them four monks of his 
 convent, one Lanzo being chief. Whereupon the earl did 
 immediately by his charter grant and confirm what he had 
 before so designed and promised ; and remitted the deed 
 to the abbot and convent of Cluni. For the abbot and 
 convent of Cluni would by no means send over the monks 
 till they had in their hands a sure confirmation, both from 
 the earl and the king, of the possessions they were to be 
 endowed with on their arrival. Not long after, so great 
 was his devotion and attachment to this order, that he 
 annexed the church of Castle Acre, and manor given him 
 by the Conqueror, with two carucates of land, to the 
 monks of St. Pancras, and determined on founding another 
 monastery at Castle Acre, which should be subordinate to 
 that at Lewes. This he accomplished accordingly, and 
 dedicated it to God, St. Mary, and the holy apostles St. 
 Peter and St. Paul, giving the monks the name of the 
 Clunial monks of St. Pancras at Lewes, serving God at 
 Acre. Herbert, Bishop of Norwich, constituted the church 
 and monastery here, and placed therein Clunial monks, 
 under the rule of St. Benedict.
 
 9G APPENDIX. 
 
 B. 
 
 Dugdale says, " Bishop Tanner, in his Baronage, vol. i, 
 p. 423, makes Broomholme and Baketon distinct priories, 
 which they certainly were not; but it is not clear" he 
 adds, " whether William de Glanville did not settle the 
 Castle Acre monks in Baketon town, and his son Bartho- 
 lomew removed them to the extremity of the parish, or 
 rather into the then neighbouring parish, and now united 
 parishes of Keswick, to the place called Broomholme, 
 where they continued till the Dissolution." 
 
 These opinions, however, cannot be supported ; for, in 
 the first place, William de Glanville is beyond dispute the 
 reputed founder of Broomholme, which could not have 
 been the case if the monks were removed from Baketon 
 town by his son Bartholomew. 
 
 Secondly. The said William de Glanville is stated as 
 lying buried at Broomholme, so that the priory must have 
 been built during his life time, and there is therefore the 
 greatest probability that William de Glanville, and not his 
 son Bartholomew, was the individual who placed the 
 Clunical monks at Broomholme. 
 
 Speed and W r eever mention two priories at Broomholme, 
 but Taylor, in his " Index Monasticus," states that they 
 confound Broomholme with that of Broomhill in Weetinsr. 
 Nor is there the slightest reason which would lead to the 
 belief that such an assertion is true, as no traces of any 
 other ruins are to be met with in any direction in the 
 parish, which no doubt would have been the case if another 
 monastery ever had existed there. I have been informed 
 that, without the present walls of the priory precinct, 
 when plowing deep, the traces of other buildings have 
 been met with. These are, however, too near the present
 
 APPENDIX. 97 
 
 monastery to confirm such an opinion. These ruins, if 
 any there he, stand more in the parish of Keswick, and 
 towards the sea, and may probably be some of the fallen 
 remains of the walls of Broomholme. 
 
 Near the church at Bacton some years back some walls, 
 apparently of the same date as those of the abbey were 
 standing, but these were situated far away from Broom- 
 holme, and at the western extremity of Bacton, and if 
 conjecture may be ili wed, were probably the remains of 
 the castle of William de Glanville, as they stood upon 
 elevated ground, which spots were generally selected for 
 the feudal castle in the middle ages, and must have joined 
 the church. This therefore cannot throw any light upon 
 the existence of the other monastery. 
 
 Speed and YVeever state also that one of these monas- 
 teries was built for Cluniac monks, dedicated to St. Sepul- 
 chre, and the other of Benedictines dedicated to St. 
 Andrew. 
 
 There appears to me to be some confusion here, as the 
 order of Cluni was one branch of St. Benedict, so that 
 Speed and Weever make a separation where no separation 
 ought to exist. 
 
 The priory of Broomholme was dedicated to St. An- 
 drew, and therefore contradicts the assertion of its being 
 dedicated to St. Sepulchre, and was inhabited by monks 
 of the Cluniac order, and not regular Benedictines. 
 
 The seal of the prior will also contradict this. I have 
 casts of two of these seals now before me. The one 
 belonging to the prior is round and large, about four 
 inches in diameter; the original is of red wax, the impress 
 is the west end of the priory church ; under an arch in 
 the centre is the figure of St. Andrew seated, a glory 
 round his head, his right hand elevated, and holding a 
 cross, supposed to represent the cross or rood of this 
 
 H
 
 grg APPENDIX. 
 
 priory, his left hand sustaining a book, and in an arch 
 over this the bust of the Virgin, with the infant Jesus in 
 her arms. The legend is somewhat broken, but what 
 remains is as follows : 
 
 " Sancti Andree de Brom" 
 
 It will, therefore, be seen, that sufficient remains per- 
 fectly intelligible to prove the dedication of this priory to 
 St. Andrew, and not as Speed and Weever state, St. Sepul- 
 chre. 
 
 Booth in his History of Norfolk states respecting this 
 seal, " The legend was, but it is somewhat broken, 
 
 ' Sigillum prions et conventus, Scj. Andree de Bromhold.' ' 
 
 In English thus : The seal of the priory and convent of 
 St. Andrew at Broomholme. 
 
 The smaller seal, which is oblong, has in the centre the 
 Virgin with the child Jesus in her right hand. The 
 legend is nearly obliterated. 
 
 If another convent ever had an existence here, it is 
 matter of surprise that nothing has been left by way of 
 history, nor in the shape of ruins to ascertain its site. 
 
 This indenture, made the 20th day of September, in the 
 2nd year of the reign of King Henry VIII, between John 
 Winchelsea, prior of the monastery of our blessed Lady 
 of Castleacre and the convent of the same place on the one 
 part, and the Right Rev. father in God, John Bishop of 
 Calcedony, prior of the monastery of St. Andrew of 
 Bromeholme, and the convent of the same place on the 
 ther part, Witnesseth that, whereas the predecessors of 
 the said prior of Castleacre, peaceably time out of mind,
 
 APPENTJIX. 99 
 
 have been seized and possessed by the hands of the pre- 
 decessors of the said prior of Bromeholme of and in a 
 certain pension or annuity of £15 6s. 8d., grounded and 
 made by an old composition bearing date the year of our 
 Lord God 1229, pridie idus Aprilis, between the prede- 
 cessors of the said priors of Castleacre and Bromeholme 
 and the convents of the same, as by the same composition 
 more plainly it may appear. Which annuity or pension 
 one John Amfles, late prior of the said monastery of 
 Castleacre, by the name of John prior of the monastery 
 of our Lady of Castleacre, late recorded by a writ of 
 annuity against John Marsham, then prior of the said 
 monastery of Bromeholme, by the name of John prior of 
 St. Andrew of Bromeholme, as more plainly it may appear 
 by the same record. Nevertheless the said John Winchel- 
 sea, prior of Castleacre and the convent of the same, 
 considering the great ruinous decay of the said monastery 
 of Bromeholme, as well in the falling down of the houses as 
 in debts and other dangers wherewith the said prior of 
 Bromeholme now standeth charged, by the reason whereof 
 the said prior of Bromeholme is not able to pay all the said 
 annuity or pension according to his duty, and at the in- 
 stance, mediation and consent, as well of the Rev. father 
 in God John Ashdown, now prior of the monastery of St. 
 Pancras of Lewes, ordinary immediate of the said place of 
 Castleacre as at the mediation of the friends of the said 
 priors of Castleacre and Bromeholme with the assent and 
 consent of the convent of the said place of Castleacre, hath 
 given and granted, and by this indenture dischargeth and 
 granteth for him and his successors to the said prior of 
 Bromeholme, and his successors priors of Bromeholme, 
 63$. Bd., parcel of the said annuity of £15 6*s. Sd., to have 
 mid to retain to him and his said successors yearly during 
 the time of ti\( years from the feasl nl the nativity of Nt
 
 100 APPENDIX. 
 
 John Baptist, which shall be in the year of our Lord 
 God 1511, unto the said feast of the nativity of St. John 
 Baptist, which shall be in the year of our Lord God 1517 ; 
 provided always that the said prior of Bromeholme and 
 his said successors truly do content and pay to the said 
 prior of Castleacre and his successors and assigns, yearly 
 during the said five years, the residue of the said annuity 
 of £15 6s. 8d., that is to say, £12 of lawful English 
 money in manner and form following ; that is to say, at the 
 feast of the nativity of St. John Baptist which shall be in 
 the year of our Lord God 1511, £6, and at the feast of St. 
 Martin the Bishop in Winter next following that other, and 
 so from thenceforth from year to year at the feasts of the 
 nativity of John Baptist and St. Martin the Bishop in 
 Winter £ 1 2 of lawful money of England by even portions 
 during the said five years, and at the feast of the nativity of 
 St. John Baptist, which shall be in the year of our Lord 
 God 1516, £7 13s. 4d., and at the feast of St. Martin the 
 Bishop in Winter next following £7 13s. 4d. and so forth 
 from year to year at the said feasts £15 6s. Sd. by even 
 portions, according to the said record and old composition ; 
 the which annuity of £12 parcel of the said annuity of 
 £15 6s. 8d. during the said five years, and the said 
 £15 6s. Sd. after the end of the said five years to be paid 
 by the said prior of Bromeholme and his successors and 
 assigns within the space of twelve days after any of the 
 said feasts. And if it happen the said annuity of £12, 
 residue of the said annuity of £15 6s. 8d. during the said 
 five years, or the said annuity of £15 6s. 8d., after the 
 term of the said five years to be behind in part or in all 
 and unpaid to the said prior of Castleacre or to his suc- 
 cessors after the space of twelve days ensuing any of the 
 feasts as is above specified, then the said prior of Brome- 
 holme with the assent of the convent of the same place
 
 APPENDIX. 101 
 
 granteth by this indenture for him and his successors to 
 the said prior of Castleacre, and his successors, assigns, 
 &c, that it shall be lawful to him and his successors and 
 assigns to distrain in the manors of Witton, Caisewick, and 
 Bacton in the county of Norfolk, and also in Burgh Castle 
 in the county of Suffolk, and in all other lands and tene- 
 ments of the said prior of Bromeholme in the said counties 
 of Norfolk and Suffolk. And the distresses so taken to 
 lead and carry away, impound and retain unto such time as 
 the arrears of the said annuity of £ 1 2 during the said five 
 years, and the arrearages of the said £15 6's. 8d. after the 
 end and term of the said five years and any parcel thereof 
 so being behind and not paid to the said prior of Castle- 
 acre and his successors and assigns with their expenses 
 and costs of the same for that occasion had unto the said 
 prior of Castleacre and his successors and assigns be 
 fully paid and content. And if any resistance be made, or 
 any replevy be sued against the said prior of Castleacre 
 or his successors or assigns, or against any of their tenants 
 for any distress, that hereafter shall be taken by them or 
 any of them, for the arrearages of the said annuity of £12 
 parcel of the said annuity of £15 6s. 8d. continuing the 
 time of the said five years or for the arrearages of the said 
 annuity of £15 6's. 8d. after the time of the said five years 
 or that a sufficient distress be not found in the said 
 manors, lands, and tenements, or any parcel of them, then 
 the said prior of Bromeholme, by the assent of his said 
 convent, giveth to the said prior of Castleacre and his 
 successors £10 in the name of a pain for every such default 
 of payment as afore is rehearsed, and that it shall be lawful 
 to the said prior of Castleacre and his successors to dis- 
 train in all the said manors, lands, and tenements for the 
 same pain as often as it shall happen to be due. Moreover 
 it is agreed between the said priors and their convent that
 
 102 APPENDIX. 
 
 this indenture or any thing contained in the same shall not 
 be prejudicial nor hurt to the said old composition concern- 
 ing the nomination and making of a new prior of the said 
 place of Bromeholme as often as it shall hereafter happen 
 or fortune the same priory of Bromeholme to be void, but 
 that the said old composition concerning the nomination 
 and making of a new prior of Bromeholme to be effectual 
 and stand in his full strength and virtue this indenture in 
 any thing notwithstanding. In witness whereof to the one 
 part of this indenture remaining with the said prior and 
 convent of Bromeholme the said prior and convent of Cas- 
 tleacre have set their convent and common seals, and to the 
 other part of this indenture remaining with the said prior 
 and convent of Castleacre the said prior and convent of 
 Bromeholme in their chapter-house of Bromeholme have 
 set their convent and common seals the day and year above 
 written. 
 
 NORWICH : PRINTED BY JOSIAH FLETCHER.
 
 ^Z J*o 
 
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