. 777.
 
 Chapters 
 
 from 
 
 Some Unwritten Memoirs 
 
 BY 
 ANNE THACKERAY RITCHIE 
 
 AUTHOR OF 
 
 RECORDS OF TENNYSON, RUSKIN, BROWNING " ETC. 
 
 NEW YORK 
 HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS 
 
 1895
 
 Copyright, 1894, by HARPER & BROTHERS 
 
 All rights reserved.
 
 
 TO 
 GEORGE AND ELIZABETH MURRAY SMITH 
 
 These chapters out of the past (and how many 
 more that are not written here) are 
 
 affectionately 2>eDtcateD 
 
 BY THE WRITER 
 THE END HOUSE, WIMBLEDON 
 
 September 13, 1894 
 
 Le bonheur ma pr<*te plus d'tm lien fragile 
 Mais c'est adversite qui ma fait un ami
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 I. MY POET I 
 
 II. MY MUSICIAN 15 
 
 III. MY TRIUMPHAL ARCH 29 
 
 IV. MY PROFESSOR OF HISTORY 43 
 
 v. MY WITCHES' CALDRON 55 
 
 VI. IN KENSINGTON 83 
 
 VII. TO WEIMAR AND BACK IOI 
 
 viii. VIA WILLIS'S ROOMS TO CHELSEA 119 
 
 IX. IN VILLEGGIATURA 141 
 
 X. TOUT CHEMIN 165 
 
 XI. MRS. KEMBLE 185
 
 MY POET
 
 I 
 
 Mv father lived in good company, so that even 
 as children we must have seen a good many poets 
 and remarkable people, though we were not always 
 conscious of our privileges. Things certainly strike 
 children oddly, partially, and for such unexpected 
 reasons. They are so busy in early life with all that 
 is going on on every side, that one person or an- 
 other person, the visitor in the drawing-room, the 
 tortoise-shell cat on the garden wall, the cook's little 
 boy who has come in to partake of cold pudding, 
 all seem very nearly as important one as the other. 
 Perhaps I should not have been so much impressed 
 by my first conscious sight of a poet, if I had then 
 realized all the notabilities who came to our house 
 from time to time. My special poet was a French- 
 man. I first heard his name in London, at a class 
 which I attended in company with a good many 
 other little girls my contemporaries, which class, 
 indeed, still continues, and succeeding generations 
 receive the decorations, the flr/sidences and the sous 
 prc'sidcnccs, I fear I personally never attained to. 
 
 My poet was a hair-dresser by profession, and a
 
 4 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 barber as well. His name was Jasmin (Jaquou 
 Jansemin in the langue d'Oc}. He was born in 
 1798 at Agen, in the south of France ; " born," he 
 writes, " of a humpback father and a halting moth- 
 er in the corner of an old street, in a crowded 
 dwelling, peopled by many rats, on Holy Thursday, 
 at the hour when pancakes are tossed." The hump- 
 back father was also a poet in his way, and com- 
 posed songs for the itinerant players of the neigh- 
 borhood. So soon as Jasmin could walk he used to 
 accompany his father to the booths, but what he 
 liked better still was gathering fagots in the little 
 islands of the Garonne. " Bareheaded, barefoot- 
 ed," he writes, " we rowed across the stream. I 
 was not alone: there were twenty of us there 
 were thirty of us. We started at the stroke of the 
 mid-day hour, singing in choir." In the evening 
 the children returned as they had left " thirty 
 voices chaunting the same cadence, and thirty fag- 
 ots dancing on thirty heads." They were so poor 
 that Jacques felt it bitterly because his parents 
 could not afford to send him to school. One day 
 he was playing in the market-place when he saw 
 his grandfather carried by to the hospital. It was 
 there the Jasmins were in the habit of dying. But 
 a cousin taught him to read ; he became appren- 
 ticed to a barber ; he rose to be a hair-dresser, and 
 prospered in his vocation, so that he was able to
 
 MY POET 5 
 
 save his father from the usual fate of the Jasmins. 
 The hair -dresser christened his first poems Les Pa- 
 pillotcs, in honor of his profession ; which songs, 
 says he, brought a silver streamlet through his 
 shop, and upon this silver streamlet he floated to 
 better fortunes than were usual to the Jasmin 
 family. One day, in a fit of poetic ardor, he broke 
 the terrible arm-chair in which they had all been in 
 the habit of being carried to the hospital. Jasmin, 
 after he became celebrated, would never abandon 
 his home or his little shop, but from time to time 
 he went for a journey ; sometimes he would come 
 to Paris, where he was kindly recognized by other 
 authors more fortunate in their worldly circum- 
 stances, and he would be made to repeat his own 
 songs by the great ladies who took him up. Chief 
 among them was Lady Elgin, who lived in Paris 
 then, and who was a good friend to all literary as- 
 pirants. Longfellow was also among Jasmin's ad- 
 mirers, and translated some of his works. Much of 
 all this I have since read in the Biographic A r a- 
 tionalc. As children at our French classes we had 
 only learned some of his lines by heart. I used to 
 break down in utter confusion when my turn came 
 to recite, but at the same time I believe I took in 
 a great deal more than I had any idea of, as I sat 
 there incompetent, wool-gathering. In that long. 
 bare room, only ornamented by a few large maps and
 
 6 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 with a flowing border of governesses, there came 
 to one many of those impressions which are not 
 dates or facts, and which don't, alas ! count for good 
 marks, but which nevertheless are very useful and 
 agreeable possessions in after- days. We used to 
 have delightful French lessons in literature and 
 poetry, and I still remember the dazzling visions 
 of troubadours evoked by our teacher troubadours 
 amid the golden landscapes of the south of France, 
 as described in the Mysteries of Udolpho ; the po- 
 ems themselves as he quoted them almost seemed 
 to have wings and to come flying out of the 
 well-thumbed Rccueil ! We had lessons in morality 
 and in experience as well as in literature. I can 
 still hear M. Roche in his melodious voice quoting 
 " de tout laurier un poison est 1'essence," and 
 praising the philosophical aptness of the illustra- 
 tion, which seemed to me so splendid that I was 
 quite overpowered by it as I went home with my 
 governess along South Audley Street. There was 
 another heart-rending poem about an angel stand- 
 ing by a cradle and contemplating its own image 
 in the face of an infant, " reflected as in a stream." 
 The angel finally carries away the poor baby, and 
 the mother kneels weeping by the empty cradle. 
 It was a sort of Christmas-card of a poem well suit- 
 ed to the sentimental experience of a little girl of 
 twelve or thirteen years old, and I then and there
 
 MY POET 7 
 
 determined that Reboul was my favorite author, 
 after all. But there were many others besides Re- 
 boul. Poor Andre Chenier we were all in love with, 
 and Jasmin aforesaid held his own among the 
 worthy recipients of that golden flower of poesy 
 which played such an important part in our early 
 education, and which was (so we learned) yearly be- 
 stowed by the inhabitants of Toulouse upon the 
 most successful competitors in the art. I used to 
 picture the flower itself as a radiant, quivering ob- 
 ject covered with delicate, glittering workmanship. 
 Perhaps nowadays I realize that golden flowers of 
 poesy are also bestowed in the south of England 
 in Waterloo Place, or Bedford Street, Covent Gar- 
 den, shall we say? round golden tokens which 
 are not without their own special graces. 
 
 But to return to my memoirs. Our life was di- 
 vided between London and Paris, where our grand- 
 parents d\velt, and where we spent a part of every 
 year, and all my recent studies and experiences 
 rushed into my mind one day soon after our re- 
 turn to France, when my grandmother told me 
 that she had been asked to a party at Lady Elgin's 
 to meet a poet, that his name was Jasmin, and that 
 she was going to take me with her! My heart 
 leaped with excitement ; Jasmin the South gold- 
 en flowers prdsidences a grown-up party the 
 portals of life seemed to fly open with those of our
 
 porte-cochere as the carriage, containing my grand- 
 mother and me in our Sunday best, drove off into 
 the dark streets. We were escorted down-stairs by 
 the cook, with an extra lantern, I remember, and 
 my grandfather in his little black silk toque waved 
 farewell over the staircase. We started expectant, 
 rolling over the rattling stones ; we crossed the 
 bridge and saw the dark river below us reflecting 
 the lights I remember no stars, but a damp and 
 drizzly darkness overhead, which, for some reason, 
 added to my excitement. We reached the ancient 
 faubourg before very long, where the oil-lamps 
 swung by chains across the streets; we turned into 
 the Rue de Varennes, where Lady Elgin lived, and 
 the coachman rapped at the great closed gates of 
 the house, which opened with a grinding sound, 
 and we walked across the court-yard. The apart- 
 ment was on the ground-floor of a fine, melancholy 
 old house. 
 
 I followed my grandmother in her brown velvet 
 gown and her diamond brooch into the reception- 
 room. I remember being surprised to find the gay 
 world so dark on the whole, and talking in such a 
 confused and subdued murmur. I had expected 
 chandeliers, bursts of laughter, people in masks 
 and dominoes. I had taken my ideas from bon- 
 bon-boxes and crackers. But it was evidently all 
 right my grandmother looked greatly pleased and
 
 MY POET g 
 
 animated. I saw her speaking to one person and 
 to another in her dignified way; her manners were 
 true grandmother's manners kind, but distant and 
 serious. We considered our grandmother a very 
 important personage, and I remember feeling not 
 a little proud of her beauty and dignity as we 
 moved along. She was not one of your " remains ;" 
 she was a very noble-looking old lady, holding her 
 head high, and her diamond cap-pin flashed as she 
 moved across the room. 
 
 My grandmother looked pleased and animated, as 
 I have said, and when her friends came up to speak 
 to her she introduced me to some of them. Almost 
 the very first person she greeted, but to whom she 
 did not introduce me, was a handsome, rather ro- 
 mantic, fashionable - looking gentleman, with a^ 
 quantity of dark hair, and a glass in one eye, lean- 
 ing against the wall by the door as we entered. 
 She said a few words as we passed. I heard some- 
 thing about " Lady Charlotte," and then we walked 
 on, and presently we came upon another girl, 
 younger than myself and very distinguished look- 
 ing, in a plaid frock, with beautiful shining braids 
 of thick hair, who seemed quite at home and used 
 to the house ; she was with her mother, a regal- 
 looking little woman, with a fine profile and a gold 
 crown ; I can still see her in a long green velvet 
 robe slowly crossing the room ; she was a well-
 
 IO CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 known person Mrs. Chapman, the celebrated Abo- 
 litionist. The little girl was her youngest daugh- 
 ter. While Mrs. Chapman and my grandmother 
 were talking to one another, little Anne Chapman, 
 who seemed to know most of the people, began 
 telling me who they all were. A great many pages 
 out of M. Roche's Rccueil were present. There 
 were all sorts of notable folks murmuring to one 
 another in the big rooms. " Who was the gentle- 
 man in the doorway?" ''Oh, he is Mr. Locker," 
 said little Anne ; " he is married to Lady Charlotte 
 Lady Elgin's daughter; didn't I know? they 
 had only come over from England the day before." 
 "And which is the poet?" said I, eagerly. " There 
 he is, in the middle of the room," said the little 
 girl. " Oh, where?" said I. " Oh, not that T For 
 suddenly, just under the swinging chandelier, I see 
 a head, like the figure-head of a ship a jolly, red, 
 shiny, weather-beaten face, with large, round, prom- 
 inent features, ornamented with little pomatumy 
 wisps of hair, and a massive torso clothed in a mag- 
 nificent frilled shirt over a pink lining. ..." That 
 the poet? not that," I falter, gazing at Punchinello, 
 high-shouldered, good-humored ! " Yes, of course 
 it is that," said the little girl, laughing at my dis- 
 may ; and the crowd seems to form a circle, in the 
 centre of which stands this droll being, who now 
 begins to recite in a monotonous voice.
 
 MY POET II 
 
 I can understand French well enough, but not 
 one single word of what he is saying. It sounds 
 perfectly unintelligible, something like chi, chou, 
 cha, atchioii, atchiou, atchion ! And so it goes on, 
 and on, and on. The shirt frill beats time, the 
 monotonous voice rises and falls. It leaves off at 
 last, the poet wipes the perspiration from his brow ; 
 there is a moment's silence, then a murmur of ad- 
 miration from the crowd which closes round him. 
 I see the Punchinello being led up to somebody 
 to be thanked and congratulated ; my heart goes 
 down, down ; more murmurs, more exclamations. 
 The little girl is gone, I am all alone with my dis- 
 appointment, and then my grandmother calls me 
 to her side and says it is time to come away. As 
 we move towards the door again, we once more 
 pass Mr. Locker, and he nods kindly, and tells me 
 he knows my father. " Well, and what do you 
 think of Jasmin?" he asks; but I can't answer him, 
 my illusions are dashed. As we drive off through 
 the streets the rain is still falling, the oil-lamps are 
 swinging; we cross the bridge once more, but how 
 dull, how dark, how sad it all seems ! My grand- 
 mother, sitting upright in the dark carriage, says 
 she has spent a very pleasant evening, and that she 
 is delighted with Jasmin's simplicity and original- 
 ity. I who had longed to see a poet ! who had 
 pictured something so different! I swallowed down
 
 12 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 as best I could that gulp of salt-water which is so 
 apt to choke us when we first take our plunge into 1 * 
 the experience of life. " He didn't look much 
 like a poet, and I couldn't understand what he 
 said," I faltered. 
 
 " Of course you could not understand the patois, 
 but have you not enjoyed your evening?" said my 
 grandmother, disappointed. I had the grace to 
 try to speak cheerfully. " I liked the little girl 
 very much, and and and I liked talking to Mr. 
 Locker, but then he isnt a poet," said I. 
 
 I can't help laughing even now as I conjure up 
 the absurd little dream of the past and the bitterness 
 of that childish disappointment. How little do we 
 mortals recognize our good-fortune that comes to 
 us now and again in a certain humorous disguise. 
 Why, I had been in a world of poets ! A poet had 
 greeted me, a poet had sung to me, I had been 
 hustled by poets ; there in the crowd (for all I 
 know to the contrary) were Lamartine and Cha- 
 teaubriand and Girardin and Merimee so, at least, 
 some one who was present on this occasion re- 
 minds me. And as for Frederick Locker, does not 
 his caged music like that of the bird of Wood 
 Street echo along the arid pavements with sweet- 
 est and most welcome note to charm the passers- 
 by as the echoes of " London Lyrics " fall upon the 
 listening ear? And the red face was also that of a
 
 MY POET 13 
 
 true poet, born to sing his sweet, unpretending song 
 from a true heart, and to bring music into humble 
 places. " A poet of the people, writing in his dia- 
 lect, celebrating public occasions and solemnities," 
 says Sainte-Beuve, " which somehow remind one of 
 the Middle Ages; belonging" (so he continues) 
 "to the school of Horace and to the school of 
 Theocritus and to that of Gray, and to that of all 
 those charming studious inspirations which aim at 
 perfection in all their work."
 
 MY MUSICIAN
 
 II 
 
 ONE'S early life is certainly a great deal more 
 amusing to look back to than it used to be when 
 it was going on. For one thing it isn't nearly so 
 long now as it was then, and remembered events 
 come cheerfully scurrying up one after another, 
 while the intervening periods are no longer the 
 portentous cycles they once were. And another 
 thing to consider is that the people walking in and 
 out of the by-gone mansions of life were not, to 
 our newly-opened eyes, the interesting personages 
 many of them have since become ; then they were 
 men walking as trees before us, without names or 
 histories; noiv some of the very names mean for us 
 the history of our time. Very young people's eyes 
 are certainly of more importance to them than their 
 ears, and they all see the persons they are destined 
 to spend their lives with long before the figures 
 begin to talk and to explain themselves. 
 
 My grandmother had a little society of her own 
 at Paris, in the midst of which she seemed to reign 
 from dignity and kindness of heart ; her friends, it 
 must be confessed, have not as yet become historic,
 
 1 8 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 but she herself was well worthy of a record. Grand- 
 mothers in books and memoirs are mostly alike 
 stately, old-fashioned, kindly, and critical. Mine 
 was no exception to the general rule. She had 
 been one of the most beautiful women of her time ; 
 she was very tall, with a queenly head and carriage ; 
 she always moved in a dignified w r ay. She had an 
 odd taste in dress, I remember, and used to walk 
 out in a red merino cloak trimmed with ermine, 
 which gave her the air of a retired empress wearing 
 out her robes. She was a woman of strong feeling, 
 somewhat imperious, with a passionate love for lit- 
 tle children, and with extraordinary sympathy and 
 enthusiasm for any one in trouble or in disgrace. 
 How benevolently she used to look round the room 
 at her many proteges, with her beautiful gray eyes ! 
 Her friends as a rule were shorter than she was and 
 brisker, less serious and emotional. They adopted 
 her views upon politics, religion, and homoeopathy, 
 or at all events did not venture to contradict them. 
 But they certainly could not reach her heights, and 
 her almost romantic passion of feeling. 
 
 A great many of my earliest recollections seem 
 to consist of old ladies armies of old ladies, so 
 they appear to me, as I look back through the 
 larger end of my glasses to the time when my sister 
 and I were two little girls living at Paris. I re- 
 member once that after a long stay in England with
 
 MY MUSICIAN 19 
 
 our father, the old ladies seemed changed some- 
 how to our more experienced eyes. They were 
 the same, but with more variety ; not all alike as 
 they had seemed before, not all the same age ; some 
 were younger, some were older than we had re- 
 membered them one was actually married ! Our 
 grandmother looked older to us this time when 
 we came back to Paris ; we were used to seeing our 
 father's gray hair, but that hers should turn white 
 too seemed almost unnatural. The very first day 
 we walked out with her after our return, we met 
 the bride of whose marriage we had heard while 
 we were away. She was a little dumpy, good- 
 natured woman of about forty-five, I suppose shall 
 I ever forget the thrill with which we watched her 
 approach, hanging with careless grace upon her 
 husband's arm ? She wore light, tight kid gloves 
 upon her little fat hands, and a bonnet like a bride's 
 cake, i Marriage had not made her proud as it does 
 some people ; she recognized us at once and intro- 
 duced us to the gentleman. " Very 'appy to make 
 your acquaintance, miss," said he. " Mrs. C. 'ave 
 often mentioned you at our place." 
 
 Children begin by being Philistines. As we parted 
 I said to my grandmother that I had always known 
 people dropped their h's, but that I didn't know 
 one ever married them. My grandmother seemed 
 trying not to laugh, but she answered gravely that
 
 2O CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. C. looked very happy, h's or no h's. 
 And so they did, walking off along those illumi- 
 nated Elysian fields gay with the echoes of Paris in 
 May, while the children capered to itinerant music, 
 and flags were flying and penny trumpets ringing, 
 and strollers and spectators were lining the way, 
 and the long interminable procession of carriages 
 in the centre of the road went rolling steadily 
 towards the Bois de Boulogne. As we walked 
 homewards evening after evening the sun used to 
 set splendidly in the very centre of the great trium- 
 phal arch at the far end of the avenue, and flood 
 everything in a glorious tide of light. What indeed 
 did an aspirate more or less matter at such a mo- 
 ment ! 
 
 I don't think we ever came home from one of 
 our walks that we did not find our grandfather sit- 
 ting watching for our grandmother's return. We 
 used to ask him if he didn't find it very dull doing 
 nothing in the twilight, but he used to tell us it 
 was his thinking-time. My sister and I thought 
 thinking dreadfully dull, and only longed for can- 
 dles and Chambers 's Miscellany. A good deal of 
 thinking went on in our peaceful home ; we should 
 have liked more doing. One day was just like an- 
 other ; my grandmother and my grandfather sat 
 on either side of the hearth in their two accus- 
 tomed places ; there was a French cook in a white
 
 MY MUSICIAN 21 
 
 cap who brought in the trays and the lamp at the 
 appointed hour; there was Chambers on the book- 
 shelf, Pickwick, and one or two of my father's 
 books, and The Listener, by Caroline Fry, which 
 used to be my last desperate resource when I had 
 just finished all the others. We lived in a sunny 
 little flat on a fourth floor, with windows east and 
 west and a wide horizon from each, and the sound 
 of the cries from the street below, and the con- 
 fusing roll of the wheels when the windows were 
 open in summer. In winter time we dined at 
 five by lamp-light at the round table in my grand- 
 father's study. After dinner we used to go into 
 the pretty blue drawing-room where the peat fire 
 would be burning brightly in the open grate, and 
 the evening paper would come in with the tea. I 
 can see it all still, hear it, smell the peat, and taste 
 the odd herbaceous tea and the French bread 
 and butter. On the band of the Constitutional 
 newspaper was printed " M. le Major Michel Esch- 
 mid." It was not my grandfather's name or any- 
 thing like it, but he would gravely say that when 
 English people lived in France they must expect 
 to have their names gallicised, and his paper cer- 
 tainly found him out evening after evening. While 
 my grandmother with much emphasis read the 
 news (she was a fervent republican, and so was my 
 grandfather), my sister and I would sit unconscious
 
 22 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 of politics and happy over our story-books until 
 the fatal, inevitable moment when a ring was heard 
 at the bell and evening callers were announced. 
 Then we reluctantly shut up our books, for we 
 were told to get our needle-work when the com- 
 pany came in, and we had to find chairs and hand 
 teacups, and answer inquiries, and presently go to 
 bed. 
 
 The ladies Avould come in in their bonnets, with 
 their news and their comments upon the' public 
 events, which, by the way, seemed to go off like 
 fireworks in those days expressly for our edifica- 
 tion. Ours was a talkative, economical, and active 
 little society Cranford en Voyage is the impres- 
 sion which remains to me of those early surround- 
 ings. If the ladies were one and all cordially at- 
 tached to my grandmother, to my grandfather 
 they were still more devoted. A Major is a Ma- 
 jor. He used to sign their pension papers, admin- 
 ister globules for their colds, give point and sup- 
 port to their political opinions. I can see him still 
 sitting in his arm-chair by the fire with a little semi- 
 circle round about the hearth. Ours was anything 
 but a meek and disappointed community. \Ve 
 may have had our reverses and very important 
 reverses they all seem to have been but we had 
 all had spirit enough to leave our native shores and 
 settle in Paris, not without a certain implied disap-
 
 MY MUSICIAN 23 
 
 proval of the other people who went on living in 
 England regardless of expense. My father did not 
 escape this criticism. Why, they used to say, did 
 he remain in that nasty smoky climate, so bad for 
 health and spirits? Why didn't he settle in Paris 
 and write works upon the French ? Why didn't I 
 write and coax him to come, and tell him that it 
 was our grandmother's wish that he should do so ; 
 that the speaker, Mademoiselle Trotkins (or who- 
 ever it might be), had told me to write? I remem- 
 ber going through an early martyrdom at these 
 friendly hands, and bitterly and silently resent- 
 ing their indignation with any one who could pre- 
 fer that black and sooty place London to Paris. 
 At the same time they allowed that the layers were 
 becoming more exorbitant every day, and as for 
 the fruiticre at the corner, she was charging no 
 less than forty sous for her Isyngny. We always 
 talked in a sort of sandwich of French and Eng- 
 lish. Oddly enough, though we talked French, 
 and some of us even looked French, we knew no 
 French people. From time to time at other houses 
 I used to hear of real foreigners, but I don't remem- 
 ber seeing any at ours, except a past 'cur who some- 
 times came, and a certain Viscomte de B. (I had 
 nearly written Bragelonne), whose mother, I be- 
 lieve, was also English. Jcuncs fillcs, jcuncs flcurs, 
 he used to say, bowing to the young ladies. This
 
 24 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 was our one only approach to an introduction to 
 French society. But all the same one cannot live 
 abroad without imbibing something of the coun- 
 try, of the air and the earth and the waters among 
 which one is living. Breath and food and raiment 
 are a part of one's life after all, and a very consid- 
 erable part; and all the wonderful tide of foreign 
 sunshine and the cheerful crowds and happy voices 
 outside, and the very click of pots and pans in the 
 little kitchen at the back seemed to have a character 
 of their own. And so, though we knew nothing of 
 the French, we got to know France and to feel at 
 home there beneath its blue sky, and I think to 
 this day a holiday abroad is ten times more a holi- 
 day than a holiday at home. From mere habit, 
 one seems to be sixteen again, and one's spirits 
 rise and one's exigencies abate. Besides the dwell- 
 ers in the appartcmcnts and the regular customers 
 of the extortionate fruitiere, there used to be pass- 
 ing friends and acquaintances who visited us on 
 their way to other resorts to Italy, to the Ger- 
 man baths. Some stopped in Paris for a week or 
 two at a time, others for a few days' only. I re- 
 member three Scotch ladies, for whom my grand- 
 mother had a great regard, who were not part of our 
 community, but who used to pass through Paris, and 
 always made a certain stay. ... I was very much 
 afraid of them, though interested at the same time
 
 MY MUSICIAN 25 
 
 as girls arc in unknown quantities. They were 
 well connected and had estates and grand rela- 
 tions in the distance, though they seemed to live 
 as simply as we did. One winter it was announced 
 that they had taken an apartment for a few wee.ks, 
 and next morning I was sent with a note to one of 
 them by my grandmother. They were tall, thin 
 ladies, two were widows, one was a spinster ; of the 
 three the unmarried one frightened me most. On 
 this occasion, after reading the note, one of the 
 widow ladies said to the spinster, Miss X., who 
 had her bonnet on, " Why, you were just going to 
 call on the child's grandmother, were you not? 
 Why don't you take her back with you in the car- 
 riage?" "I must first go and see how he is this 
 morning," said Miss X., somewhat anxiously, " and 
 then I will take her home, of course. Are the things 
 packed ?" A servant came in carrying a large bas- 
 ket with a variety of bottles and viands and nap- 
 kins. I had not presence of mind to run away as 
 I longed to do, and somehow in a few minutes I 
 found myself sitting in a little open carriage with 
 the Scotch lady, and the basket on the opposite 
 seat. I thought her, if possible, more terrible than 
 ever she seemed grave, preoccupied. She had a 
 long nose, a thick brown complexion, grayish sandy 
 hair, and was dressed in scanty cloth skirts gray 
 and sandy too. She spoke to me, I believe, but
 
 26 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 my heart was in my mouth ; I hardly dared even 
 listen to what she said. We drove along the 
 Champs Elysees towards the Arc and then turned 
 into a side street, and presently came to a house at 
 the door of which the carnage stopped. The lady 
 got out, carefully carrying her heavy basket, and 
 told me to follow, and we began to climb the shiny 
 stairs one, two flights I think then we rang at a 
 bell and the door was almost instantly opened. It 
 was opened by a slight, delicate-looking man with 
 long hair, bright eyes, and a thin, hooked nose. 
 When Miss X. saw him she hastily put down her 
 basket upon the floor, caught both his hands in 
 hers, began to shake them gently, and to scold him 
 in an affectionate reproving way for having come 
 to the door. He laughed, said he had guessed 
 who it was, and motioned to her to enter, and I 
 followed at her sign with the basket followed into 
 a narrow little room, with no furniture in it what- 
 ever but an upright piano against the wall and a 
 few straw chairs standing on the wooden shiny 
 floor. He made us sit down with some courtesy, 
 and in reply to her questions said he was pretty 
 well. Had he slept? He shook his head. Had 
 he eaten ? He shrugged his shoulders and then 
 he pointed to the piano. He had been compos- 
 ing something I remember that he spoke in an 
 abrupt, light sort of way would Miss X. like to
 
 MY MUSICIAN 27 
 
 hear it? "She would like to hear it," she an- 
 swered, " of course, she would dearly like to hear 
 it ; but it would tire him to play ; it could not be 
 good for him." He smiled again, shook back his 
 long hair, and sat down immediately ; and then 
 the music began and the room was filled with con- 
 tinuous sound, he looking over his shoulder now 
 and then to see if we were liking it. The lady sat 
 absorbed and listening, and as I looked at her I 
 saw tears in her eyes great clear tears rolling 
 down her cheeks while the music poured on and 
 on. I can't, alas, recall that music ! I would give 
 anything to remember it now; but the truth is, I 
 was so interested in the people that I scarcely 
 listened. When he stopped at last and looked 
 round, the lady started up. " You mustn't play 
 any more," she said ; " no more, no more, it's too 
 beautiful " and she praised him and thanked him 
 in a tender, motherly, pitying sort of way, and then 
 hurriedly said we must go ; but as we took leave 
 she added, almost in a whisper with a humble 
 apologizing look " I have brought you some of 
 that jelly, and my sister sent some of the wine you 
 fancied the other day ; pray, pray try to take a 
 little." He again shook his head at her, seeming 
 more vexed than grateful. " It is very wrong ; 
 you shouldn't bring me these things," he said in 
 French. " I won't play to you if you do " but she
 
 28 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 put him back softly, and hurriedly closed the door 
 upon him and the offending basket, and hastened 
 away. As we were coming down-stairs she wiped 
 her eyes again. By this time I had got to under- 
 stand the plain, tall, grim, warm-hearted woman; 
 all my silly terrors were gone. She looked hard at 
 me as we drove away. " Never forget that you 
 have heard Chopin play," she said with emotion, 
 " for soon no one will ever hear him play any more." 
 Sometimes reading the memoirs of the great 
 musician, the sad story of his early death, of his 
 passionate fidelity, and cruel estrangement from 
 the companion he most loved, I have remembered 
 this little scene with comfort and pleasure, and 
 known that he was not altogether alone in life, 
 and that he had good friends who cared for his 
 genius and tended him to the last. Of their affec- 
 tion he was aware. But of their constant secret 
 material guardianship he was unconscious ; the 
 basket he evidently hated, the woman he turned 
 to with most grateful response and dependence. 
 He was to the very end absorbed in his music, in 
 his art, in his love. He had bestowed without 
 counting all that he had to give : he poured it 
 forth upon others, never reckoning the cost ; and 
 then dying away from it all, he in turn took what 
 came to him as a child might do, without ponder- 
 ing or speculating overmuch.
 
 MY TRIUMPHAL ARCH
 
 Ill 
 
 I BEGAN life at four or five years old as a fervent 
 Napoleon ist. The great emperor had not been 
 dead a quarter of a century when I was a little 
 child. He was certainly alive in the hearts of the 
 French people and of the children growing up 
 among them. Influenced by the cook, we adored 
 his memory, and the concierge had a clock with a 
 laurel wreath which from some reason kindled all 
 our enthusiasm. 
 
 As a baby holding my father's finger I had 
 stared at the second funeral of Napoleon sweeping 
 up the great roadway of the Champs Elysees. 
 The ground was white with new-fallen snow, and 
 I had never seen snow before ; it seemed to me 
 to be a part of the funeral, a mighty pall indeed 
 spread for the obsequies of so great a warrior. It 
 was the snow I thought about, though I looked 
 with awe at' the black and glittering carriages 
 
 o o o 
 
 which came up like ships sailing past us, noiseless- 
 ly one by one. They frightened me, for I thought 
 there was a dead emperor in each. This weird 
 procession gave a strange importance to the mem-
 
 32 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 ory of the great emperor, and also to the little 
 marble statuette of him on the nursery chimney- 
 piece. It stood with folded arms contemplating 
 the decadence of France, black and silent and re- 
 proachful. France was no longer an empire, only 
 a kingdom just like any other country ; this fact I 
 and the cook bitterly resented. Besides the statu- 
 ette there was a snuff-box, belonging I know not 
 to whom, that was a treasure of emotional awe. 
 It came out on Sundays, and sometimes of an 
 evening just before bed -time. At first as you 
 looked you saw nothing but the cover of a wooden 
 box ornamented by a drawing in brown sepia, the 
 sketch of a tombstone and a weeping willow-tree 
 nothing more. Then if you looked again, indi- 
 cated by ingenious twigs and lines there gradually 
 dawned upon you the figure, the shadowy figure 
 of him who lay beneath the stone. Napoleon, pale 
 and sad, with folded arms, with his cocked hat 
 crushed forward on his brow, the mournful shade 
 of the conqueror who had sent a million of other 
 men to Hades before him. 
 
 As we gazed we hated the English. It is true I 
 was very glad they always conquered everybody, 
 and that my grandpapa was a major in their army; 
 but at the same time the cook and I hated the 
 perfidious English, and we felt that if Napoleon 
 had not been betrayed he would still have been 
 rei^nincr over us here in Paris.
 
 MY TRIUMPHAL ARCH 33 
 
 Every day we children used to go with our 
 bonne to play round about the Arc de Triomphe 
 near which w r e lived, and where, alternating with 
 ornamental rosettes, the long lists of Napoleon's 
 battles and triumphs were carved upon the stone. 
 The bonne sat at work upon one of the stone 
 benches which surround the Arc, we made gravel 
 pies on the step at her feet and searched for shells 
 in the sand, or, when we were not prevented by the 
 guardian, swung on the iron chains which divide 
 the enclosure from the road. We paid no atten- 
 tion whatever to the inscriptions, in fact we couldn't 
 read very \vell in those days. We hardly ever 
 looked at the groups of statuary, except that there 
 was one great arm carrying a shield, and a huge 
 leg like the limb in the Castle of Otranto which 
 haunted us, and which we always saw, though we 
 tried not to see it. I never remember being very 
 light-hearted or laughing at my play up by the 
 Arc, a general sense of something grim and great 
 and strange and beyond my small ken impressed 
 itself upon me as we played. \Vhen I had night- 
 mares at night the Arc de Triomphe, with its 
 writhing figures, was always mixed up with them. 
 One day the guardian in his brass buttons, being 
 in a good humor, allowed us all to climb up with- 
 out paying to the flat lead terrace on the top. 
 There were easy steps inside the walls, and slits
 
 34 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 for light at intervals ; and when we climbed the 
 last steep step and came out upon the sum- 
 mit, we saw the great view, the domes and the 
 pinnacles and gilt weathercocks of the lovely city 
 all spreading before us, and the winding river, and 
 the people looking like grains of sand blown by 
 the wind, and the carriages crawling like insects, 
 and the palace of the Tuileries in its lovely old 
 gardens shining like a toy. But somehow the 
 world from a monumental height is quite different 
 from what it seems from a curb-stone, where much 
 more human impressions are to be found ; and that 
 disembodied Paris, spreading like a vision, never 
 appeared to me to be the same place as the noisy, 
 cheerful, beloved city of my early childish recol- 
 lections. 
 
 The first house in which we lived at Paris was an 
 old house in an old avenue enclosed by iron gates 
 which were shut at night. It was called the Av- 
 enue Sainte Marie and led from the Faubourg du 
 Roule to the Arc de Triomphe. The avenue was 
 planted with shady trees ; on one side there were 
 houses, on the other convent walls. At the door of 
 one of the houses an old man sat in his chair, who 
 used to tell us, as we passed by, that in a few 
 months he would be a hundred years old, and then 
 they would put him into the papers. I used to play 
 in the court-yard belonging to the house in which
 
 MY TRIUMPHAL ARCH 35 
 
 we lived. There was a pump and there was a wall 
 with a row of poplar trees beyond it. There was a 
 faded fresco painted on the wall, a dim fountain, a 
 pale Italian garden, a washed-out bird flying away, 
 with a blue tail, across long streaks of mildew that 
 had come from the drippings of the trees. Frescos 
 must have been in fashion at the time when the 
 Avenue Sainte Marie was built, for there was also 
 a dim painting on the convent wall opposite our 
 portc-cocJicrc, representing a temple in a garden, 
 and clouds, and another bird with outstretched 
 wings. From beyond this wall we used to hear 
 the bells and the litanies of the nuns. One night 
 I dreamed that I was walking in the convent garden 
 and that my father came out of the temple to fetch 
 me home, and that the bird flapped its wings with a 
 shrill cry. I used to dream a great deal when I was 
 a little child, and then wake up in my creaking 
 wooden bed and stare at the dim floating night- 
 light like a little ship on its sea of oil. Then from 
 the dark corners of the room there used to come 
 all sorts of strange things sailing up upon the dark- 
 ness. I could see them all, looking like painted 
 pictures. There were flowers, birds, dolls, toys, 
 shining things of every description. I have since 
 heard that this seeing pictures in the dark is not 
 an uncommon faculty among children. I had a 
 vague feeling that the pictures came from the
 
 36 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 house of the nuns. My sister being a baby, I had 
 only the porter's niece to play with. She was 
 older than I was, and used to go to school at 
 the convent. She used to wear a black stuff pin- 
 afore and a blue ribbon with the image of the 
 Virgin round her neck. As we played we could 
 hear other music than that of the nuns, the brilliant 
 strains of Monsieur Ernest's piano in the apartment 
 over ours. He was a kind young man, very fond 
 of children, who used to open the window and play 
 to us brilliant dances and marches, which we de- 
 lighted in. When he ceased we went back to our 
 games. 
 
 It was later in life that with the help, either of 
 Justine or another relation of the family, I tried to 
 polish up the stairs as a surprise for the porter on 
 his return from an errand. We got the long brooms 
 and sticks out of the lodge where there was nobody 
 to be seen, only an odd smell and a great pot sim- 
 mering by the fire. One of us carried a feather 
 broom, the other a brush with a strap to it, and a 
 great stick with a bit of wax at one end. Then 
 we set to work, not forgetting the hissing sound. 
 Justine flapped about with the feather broom and 
 duster; I tried to work my foot with the heavy 
 brush ; but the brush flies off, down I come on 
 my nose with a scream, the broom clatters echo- 
 ing down the stairs, the waxed stick falls over the
 
 MY TRIUMPHAL ARCH 37 
 
 bannisters, doors open, voices are heard, I have 
 thumped my nose, bumped my forehead, but I do 
 not mind the pain the disgrace,' the failure, are 
 what are so terrible to bear ! 
 
 I cannot clearly remember when I became an 
 Orleanist, but I think I must have been about six 
 years old at the time, standing tiptoe on the afore- 
 said curb-stone. My grandmother had changed her 
 cook and her apartment, and I had happened to 
 hear my grandfather say that Napoleon was a rascal 
 who had not been betrayed by the English. Then 
 came a day shall I ever forget it ? when a yellow 
 carriage jingled by with a beautiful little smiling 
 boy at the window, a fair-haired, blue-eyed prince. 
 It was the little Comte de Paris, who would be a 
 king some day, they told me, and who was smiling 
 and looking so charming that then and there I 
 deserted my colors and went over to the camp of 
 the Orleans. Alas! that the lilies of France should 
 have been smirched and soiled by base and vulgar 
 intrigues, and that my little prince should have 
 stepped down unabashed, as a gray-headed veteran, 
 from the dignified shrine of his youth. I remember 
 once hearing my father say of the Due d'Aumale, 
 " He has everything in his favor good looks, dig- 
 nity, fine manners, intellect, riches, and, above all, 
 misfortune ;" and with all of these I invested the 
 image of my o\vn particular little prince.
 
 38 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 One micareme, on that mysterious pagan feast 
 of the butchers, when the fat ox, covered with gar- 
 lands and with gilded horns, is led to sacrifice 
 through the streets of Paris, I also, to my great 
 satisfaction, was brought forth to join the proces- 
 sion by a couple of maids, one of whom carried a 
 basket. I remember finding my stumpy self in a 
 court of the Tuileries, the fairy ox having been 
 brought thither for the benefit of the king, and I 
 was hustled to the front of a crowd and stood be- 
 tween my two protectors looking up at a window. 
 Then comes an outcry of cheering, and a venerable, 
 curly-headed old gentleman, Louis Philippe him- 
 self, just like all his pictures, appears for an instant 
 behind the glass, and then the people shout again 
 and again, and the window opens, and the king 
 steps out on to the balcony handing out an old 
 lady in a bonnet and frizzed white curls, and, yes, 
 the little boy is there too. Hurrah, hurrah ! for all 
 the kings and queens ! And somebody is squeez- 
 ing me up against the basket, but I am now an Or- 
 leanist and ready to suffer tortures for the kind old 
 grandpapa and the little boy. Now that I am a 
 gray-headed woman I feel as if I could still stand 
 in the crowd and cry hurrah for honest men who, 
 with old Louis Philippe, would rather give up their 
 crowns than let their subjects be fired upon ; and 
 if my little prince, instead of shabbily intriguing
 
 MY TRIUMPHAL ARCH 39 
 
 with adventurers, had kept to his grandfather's 
 peacetul philosophy, I could have cried hurrah 
 for him still with all my heart. 
 
 I suppose we have most of us, in and out of our 
 pinafores, stood by triumphal archways put up for 
 other people, and moralized a little bit before pro- 
 ceeding to amuse ourselves with our own advent- 
 ures further on. As I have said, the Arc de Tri- 
 omphe seems mixed up with all my early life. I 
 remember looking up at it on my way to my first 
 school in an adjoining street, crossing the open 
 space, and instead of stopping to pick up shells 
 as usual, casting, I dare say, a complaisant glance 
 of superiority at the gods of war in their stony 
 chariots, who, after all, never had much education. 
 I was nicely dressed in a plaid frock, and wore two 
 tails of hair tied with ribbons, a black apron, and 
 two little black pantalettes. It was the admired 
 costume of all the young ladies of the school to 
 which I was bound. On this occasion the stony 
 gods witnessed my undue elation and subsequent 
 discomfiture unmoved. The triumphal arch was 
 certainly not intended for my return. I was led 
 home that evening, after a day mostly spent in the 
 corner, crestfallen and crushed by my inferiority 
 to all the other young ladies of the school in their 
 black pinafores and pantalettes.
 
 4-O CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 But the images round about the Arc are not all of 
 discomfitures and funerals and terrible things. There 
 were also merry-makings to be remembered. Did 
 not the Siamese Twins themselves set up their 
 booths in its shadow in company with various wild 
 Bedouins their companions? I thought it cruel of 
 the nurse not to take me in to see the show, and 
 indeed on one occasion I ran away from home to 
 visit it on my own account. The expedition was 
 not a success, but Siam has always seemed to me 
 an interesting country ever since. Besides the 
 twins and their booth, there were cafes and resting- 
 places in those days all round about the Arc, and 
 people enjoying themselves after their long day's 
 work with song and laughter. Wild flowers were 
 still growing at the upper end of the Champs 
 Elysees on a green mound called the Pelouse. 
 
 In the year '48, when we walked out with our 
 grandparents, the Pelouse had been dug up and 
 levelled, I think, to give work to the starving peo- 
 ple. It was a year of catastrophes and revolutions; 
 a sort of " General Post " among kings and gov- 
 ernments. Many of the promenaders (my grand- 
 parents among them) used to wear little tricolor ro- 
 settes to show their sympathies with the Republic. 
 Shall I ever forget the sight of the enthusiastic 
 crowds lining the way to see the President entering 
 Paris in a cocked hat on a curveting Arabian steed
 
 MY TRIUMPHAL ARCH 41 
 
 at the head of his troops? to be followed in a year 
 or two by the still more splendid apparition of Na- 
 poleon III. riding into Paris along the road the 
 great Emperor's hearse had taken a new emperor, 
 glittering and alive once more, on a horse so beau- 
 tiful and majestic that to look upon it was a martial 
 education ! 
 
 The pomp and circumstance of war were awak- 
 ened again, and troops came marching up the av- 
 enues as before, and, what is even more vivid to 
 my mind, a charming empress presently rose be- 
 fore us, winning all hearts by her grace and her 
 beautiful toilettes. My sister and I stood by the 
 roadside on her wedding-day and watched her car- 
 riage rolling past the Arc to St. Cloud ; the morn- 
 ing had been full of spring sunshine, but the after- 
 noon was bleak and drear, and I remember how we 
 shivered as we stood. Some years later, when we 
 were no longer little girls, but young ladies in crin- 
 olines, we counted the guns fired for the birth of 
 the Prince Imperial at the Tuileries.
 
 MY PROFESSOR OF HISTORY
 
 IV 
 
 OUR father was away in America, and we were 
 living once more with our grandparents. We were 
 children no longer, but were young ladies supposed 
 to be finishing our education. It will be seen that it 
 was of a fitful and backward description. Macau- 
 lay's Essays, Ivanhoe and the Talisman, Herodotus, 
 Milman's History of the Jcivs, and one or two stray 
 scraps of poetry represented our studies. Then 
 came a vast and hopeless chaos in our minds, reach- 
 ing as far back as the times of Charlemagne and 
 Clovis, and Bertha with the long foot, and Frede- 
 gonde who was always plunging her dagger into 
 somebody's back. The early Merovingians will for 
 me ever be associated with a faint smell of snuff 
 and a plaid linen pocket-handkerchief carefully 
 folded, with a little, old, short, stumpy figure, in a 
 black cap and dressed in a scanty black skirt. The 
 figure is that of my Professor of History. An old, 
 old lady, very short, very dignified, uttering little 
 grunts at intervals, and holding a pair of spectacles 
 in one hand and a little old black fat book in the 
 other, from which, with many fumblings and snuff-
 
 46 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 takings, the good soul would proceed to read to 
 us of murder, battle, rapine, and sudden death, of 
 kings, crowns, dynasties, and knights in armor, 
 while we, her pupils, listened, trying not to laugh 
 when she turned two pages at once, or read the 
 same page twice over with great seriousness. 
 
 My dear grandmother, who was always inventing 
 ways of helping people, and who firmly believed in 
 all her proteges, having visited our Madame once 
 or twice and found her absorbed in the said history 
 book, had arranged that a series of historical lect- 
 ures, with five-franc tickets of admission to the 
 course, should be given by her during the winter 
 months; and that after the lecture (which used to 
 take place in our sitting-room, and which was at- 
 tended by a certain number of ladies) we should all 
 adjourn for tea to the blue drawing-room, where 
 the Major meanwhile had been able to enjoy his 
 after-dinner nap in quiet. He refused to attend the 
 course, saying, after the first lecture, that he found 
 it difficult to follow the drift of Madame's argu- 
 ments. There used to be a class of four girls my 
 sister and myself, our cousin Amy, and Laura C., a 
 friend of my own age and then the various ladies, 
 in bonnets, from up-stairs and down-stairs and next 
 door. The lecture lasted an hour by the clock; 
 then the meeting suddenly adjourned, and by the 
 time the golden flower-vase pendule in the drawing-
 
 MY PROFESSOR OF HISTORY 47 
 
 room struck ten everybody was already walking 
 down the shiny staircase and starting for home. 
 Paris streets at night may be dark and muddy, or 
 freezing cold, but they never give one that chill, 
 vault-like feeling which London streets are apt to 
 produce when one turns out from a warm fireside 
 into the raw night. The ladies thought nothing of 
 crossing the road and walking along a boulevard till 
 they reached their own doors. Good old Madame 
 used to walk off with those of her pupils who lived 
 her way ; they generally left her at the bright 
 chemist's shop round the corner, where Madame 
 Marlin, the chemist's wife, would administer an 
 evening dose of peppermint-water to keep out the 
 cold so we used to be told by Madame. The old 
 lady lived in one of the tall, shabby houses at the 
 top of the Faubourg, just behind the Arc. We 
 used to find her sitting in a small crowded room, 
 with a tiny ante-room, and an alcove for her bed. 
 There she lived with her poodle, Bibi, among the 
 faded treasures and ancient snuff-boxes and books 
 and portraits and silhouettes of a lifetime; grim 
 effigies of a grim past somewhat softened by dust 
 and time. In the midst of all the chaos one 
 lovely miniature used to hang, shining like a star 
 through the clouds of present loneliness and the 
 spiders' webs of age and poverty. This was the por- 
 trait of the beautiful Lady Almeria Carpenter, the
 
 48 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 friend of Sir Joshua, with whom in some mysterious, 
 romantic way Madame was connected. Another 
 equally valued relic was a needlebook which had 
 been used by the Duchesse de Praslin on the day 
 when her husband murdered her. Madame's sister 
 had been governess there for many years, and had 
 loved the duchess dearly and been valued by her, and 
 many and mysterious were the confidences poured 
 into my grandmother's ear concerning this sad 
 tragedy. Our cheery, emphatic, mysterious old lady 
 was very popular among us all. One of her kindest 
 friends was my father's cousin, Miss R., who had 
 lived in Paris all her life, and whose visiting-list com- 
 prised any one in trouble or poor or lonely and 
 afflicted. I think if it had not been for her help and 
 that of my grandmother our good old friend would 
 have often gone through sore trials. When my 
 father himself came to Paris to fetch us away, he was 
 interested in the accounts he heard of the old lady 
 from his mother and cousin. And Madame is the 
 heroine of a little story which I have seen in print 
 somewhere, and which I know to be true, for was I 
 not sent one day to search for a certain pill-box in 
 my father's room, of which he proceeded to empty 
 the contents into the fireplace, and then, drawing 
 a neat banker's roll from his pocket, to fill up the 
 little cube with a certain number of new napoleons, 
 packing them in closely up to the brim. After
 
 MY PROFESSOR OF HISTORY 49 
 
 which, the cover being restored, he wrote the fol- 
 lowing prescription in his beautiful, even handwrit- 
 ing: "Madame P. ... To be taken occasionally 
 when required. Signed Dr. W. M. T." Which medi- 
 cine my grandmother, greatly pleased, promised to 
 administer to her old friend after our departure. 
 
 P.S. The remembrance of this pill-box, and of my 
 father's kind hands packing up the napoleons, came 
 to me long after at a time when misfortunes of 
 every kind had fallen upon the familiar friends and 
 places of our early youth, when the glare of burn- 
 ing Paris seemed to reach us far away in our Eng- 
 lish homes, and we almost thought we could hear 
 the thunders breaking on the unhappy city. We 
 thought of our poor old lady, alone with her dear 
 Bibi, in the midst of all this terror and destruction. 
 As we sat down to our legs of mutton we pictured 
 the horrible salmis and fricandeanx of rats and 
 mice to which our neighbors were reduced, the 
 sufferings so heroically borne. Every memory of 
 the past rose up to incite us to make some effort 
 to come to the assistance of our poor old friend ; 
 and at last it occurred to me to ask Baroness Mayer 
 de Rothschild, who was always ready with good 
 help for others, whether it would be possible to 
 communicate with my besieged old lady. 
 
 I do not know by what means perhaps if I knew,
 
 50 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 I ought not to say how communications had been 
 established between the English Rothschilds and 
 those who were still in Paris. Some trusty and de- 
 voted retainer, some Porthos belonging to the 
 house, had been able to get into Paris carrying let- 
 ters and messages and food, and he was, so the 
 Baroness now told me, about to return again. By 
 this means I was told that I might send my letters 
 and a draft on the bank in Paris so that poor 
 Madame could obtain a little help of which she 
 must be in cruel need; and this being accom- 
 plished, the letter written and the money sent off, 
 I was able with an easier mind to enjoy my own 
 share of the good things of life. Time passed, the 
 siege was raised, and then came a day when, urged 
 by^ circumstances, and perhaps also by a certain 
 curiosity, I found myself starting for Paris with a 
 friend, under the escort of Mr. Cook, arriving after 
 a night's journey through strange and never-to-be- 
 forgotten experiences at the Gare du Nord a de- 
 serted station among streets all empty and silent. 
 Carriages were no longer to be seen, every figure 
 was dressed in black, and the women's sad faces 
 and long, floating crape veils seemed strangely 
 symbolical and visionary, as I walked along to the 
 house of my father's cousin, Charlotte R., who had 
 been my friend ever since I could remember. She 
 was expecting me in her home to which she had
 
 MY PROFESSOR OF HISTORY 51 
 
 only been able to return a few days before. It is 
 not my purpose here to describe the strange and 
 pathetic experiences and the sights we saw to- 
 gether during that most eventful week; the sun- 
 shine of it all, the smoking ruins, the piteous his- 
 tories, the strange rebound of life even in the midst 
 of its ashes. The Arc itself was wrapped in sack- 
 cloth to preserve the impassive gods from the in- 
 juries of war. The great legs and arms we repacked 
 in straw and saw-dust to protect them. One of my 
 first questions was for Madame. " She is particu- 
 larly well," said my cousin, smiling. " She has added 
 many thrilling histories to repertoire, Madame Mar- 
 tin's escape from the obus, Bibi's horror of the 
 Prussians you must come and see her, and hear 
 it all for yourself." " I particularly want to see her," 
 said I. I was in a self-satisfied and not unnatural 
 frame of mind, picturing my old lady's pleasure 
 at the meeting, her eloquent emotion and satisfac- 
 tion at the trouble I had taken on her behalf. I 
 hoped to have saved her life ; at all events I felt 
 that she must owe many little comforts to my ex- 
 ertions, and that her grateful benediction awaited 
 me ! 
 
 Dear old Madame was sitting with her poodle on 
 her knees in the same little dark and crowded 
 chamber. She put down her spectacles, shut up 
 her book I do believe it was still the little black
 
 52 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 History of France. She did not look in the least 
 surprised to see me walk in. The room smelt of 
 snuff just as usual ; Bibi leaped up from her lap, 
 barking furiously. " Ah ! my dear child," said the 
 old lady calmly, " how do you do ? Ah, my dear 
 Miss R., I am delighted to see you again ! Only 
 this day I said to Madame Martin, ' I think Miss 
 R. will be sure to call this afternoon ; it is some day 
 since she come.' " Then turning to me, " Well, my 
 dear A., and how do you, and how do you all ? Are 
 you come to stay in our poor Paris ? Are Mr. and 
 Mrs. T. with you? Oh! oh! Oh, those Prussians! 
 those abominable monsters! My poor Bibi, he 
 was ready to tear them to pieces ; he and I could 
 not sleep for the guns. Madame Martin, she say 
 to me, 'Oh ! Madame, can you believe such wicked- 
 ness?' I say to her, 'it is abominable.' Oh, there 
 is no word for it !" 
 
 All this was oddly familiar, and yet strangely 
 thrilling and unreal as was all the rest. There is no 
 adequate expression for the strange waking night- 
 mare which seems to seize one when by chance one 
 meets a whole country suffering from one over- 
 powering idea, and when one hears the story of 
 each individual experience in turn repeated and re- 
 peated. 
 
 At last, my own personal interests rising up 
 again, I said, not without some curiosity : " And
 
 MY PROFESSOR OF HISTORY 53 
 
 now I want to ask you, did you get my letter, 
 Madame, and did you receive the money safely 
 from Messrs. Rothschilds' bank?" 
 
 " I thank you, my dear child. I received it I 
 was about to mention the subject I knew you 
 would not forget your old friend," said Madame 
 solemnly. " I needed the money very much," with 
 a shake of the head. " I was all the more grateful 
 that it came at the time it did. You will be grati- 
 fied, I know, to learn the use to which I put it. 
 They had come round to every house in the street 
 only that morning. Madame Martin was with me." 
 Here Madame took a pinch of snuff very seriously. 
 " She go to the banker's for me, and she took the 
 money at once and inscribe my name on the list." 
 
 "The list?" said I, much bewildered. 
 
 " I subscribe it," said Madame, " to the cannon 
 which was presented by our qnarticr to the city of 
 Paris." 
 
 "What, all of it?" said I. 
 
 " Yes, all of it," said she. " Do you suppose I 
 should have kept any of it back?"
 
 MY WITCHES' CALDRON
 
 V 
 
 IT happily does not always follow that one cares 
 for an author in exact proportion to the sale of his 
 books, or even to the degree of their merit ; other- 
 wise some might be overpowered by friends, and 
 others remain solitary all their lives long. It also 
 does not always follow that people who write books 
 are those who see most of one another. On the 
 contrary, authors as a rule, I think, prefer play- 
 mates of other professions than their own, and 
 don't keep together in the same way that soldiers 
 do for instance, or dandies, or lawyers, or members 
 of Parliament. Lawyers, politicians, soldiers, and 
 even doctors, do a great deal of their work together 
 in one another's company; but the hours don't suit 
 for literary people, and one rarely hears of five or six 
 authors sitting down in a row to write books. They 
 are generally shut up apart in different studies, with 
 strict orders given that nobody is to be shown in. 
 
 This was my father's rule, only it was constantly 
 broken ; and many persons used to pass in and out 
 during his working-times, coming to consult him, 
 or to make suggestions ; some came to call, others
 
 58 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 brought little poems and articles for the CornJiill. 
 . . . As I write on it seems to me that my memory 
 is a sort of Witches' Caldron, frpm which rise one 
 by one these figures of the past, and they go by in 
 turn and vanish one by one into the mist some 
 are kings and queens in their own right, some are 
 friends, some are dependants. From my caldron 
 rise many figures crowned and uncrowned, some of 
 whom I have looked upon once perhaps, and then 
 realized them in after-life from a different point of 
 view. Now, perhaps, looking back, one can tell 
 their worth better than at the time ; one knows 
 which were the true companions, which were the 
 teachers and spiritual pastors, which were but shad 
 ows after all. The most splendid person I ever re 
 member seeing had a little pencil sketch in his 
 hand, which he left behind him upon the table. It 
 was a very feeble sketch ; it seemed scarcely possi- 
 ble that so grand a being should not be a bolder 
 draughtsman. He appeared to us one Sunday 
 morning in the sunshine. When I came down to' 
 breakfast I found him sitting beside my father at 
 the table, with an untasted cup of tea before him ; 
 he seemed to fill the bow-window with radiance as 
 if he were Apollo ; he leaned against his chair with 
 one elbow resting on its back, with shining studs 
 and curls and boots. We could see his horse look- 
 ing in at us over the blind. It was indeed a si<jht
 
 MY WITCHES' CALDRON 59 
 
 for little girls to remember all their lives. I think 
 my father had a certain weakness for dandies, 
 those knights of the broadcloth and shining fronts. 
 Magnificent apparitions used to dawn upon us in 
 the hall sometimes, glorious beings on their way to 
 the study, but this one outshone them all. I came 
 upon a description in Lord Lamington's Book of 
 Dandies the other day, which once more evoked 
 the shining memory. Our visitor was Count 
 D'Orsay, of whom Lord Lamington says : 
 
 " When he appeared in the perfection of dress (for the 
 tailor's art had not died out with George IV.), with that 
 expression of self-confidence and complacency which the 
 sense of superiority gives, he was the observed of all ! In 
 those days men took great pains with themselves, they did 
 not slouch and moon thro' life. ... I have frequently ridden 
 down to Richmond with Count D'Orsay ; a striking figure 
 he was; his blue coat, thrown well back to show the wide 
 expanse of snowy shirt-front, his buff waistcoat, his light 
 leathers and polished boots, his well-curled whiskers and 
 handsome countenance; a wide-brimmed glossy hat, and 
 spotless white gloves." 
 
 Mr. Richard Doyle used to tell us a little story 
 of a well-known literary man who was so carried 
 away by the presence of the brilliant D'Orsay 
 at some city banquet that in a burst of enthusi- 
 asm he was heard to call aloud, above the din of 
 voices, " Waiter ! for Heaven's sake bring melted 
 butter for the flounder of the Count." The Count
 
 60 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 must have been well used to melted butter, as he 
 proceeded on his triumphant road, nor did his 
 genius fail him to the last. I have read some- 
 where a curious description of the romantic sar- 
 cophagus he finally devised for himself in a sort of 
 temple, a flight of marble steps leading to a marble 
 shrine where he was duly laid when he died, not 
 long after his return to his own country and to the 
 land of his fathers. He is of that race of men who 
 lived in the beginning of the century, magnificent 
 performers of life's commonplaces, representative 
 heroes and leaders of the scene. Byron belonged 
 to the brilliant company, and greatly admired 
 Count D'Orsay. There is a certain absence of the 
 florid, a frozen coldness in the fashion of to-day 
 which strikes those who remember the more flam- 
 boyant generation. 
 
 I remember a visit from another hero of those 
 times. We were walking across Kensington Square 
 early one morning, when we heard some one hur- 
 rying after us and calling, " Thackeray, Thackeray !"" 
 This was also one of Byron's friends a bright- 
 eyed, active old man, with long, wavy white hair, 
 and a picturesque cloak flung over one shoulder. I 
 can see him still, as he crossed the corner of the 
 square and followed us with a light, rapid step. My 
 father, stopping short, turned back to meet him, 
 greeting him kindly, and bringing him home with
 
 MY WITCHES' CALDRON 61 
 
 us to the old brown house at the corner where we 
 were then living. There was a sort of eagerness 
 and vividness of manner about the stranger which 
 was very impressive. You could not help watch- 
 ing him and his cloak, which kept slipping from 
 its place, and which he caught at again and again. 
 We wondered at his romantic, foreign looks, and 
 his gayety and bright, eager way. Afterwards we 
 were told that this was Leigh Hunt. We knew 
 his name very well, for on the drawing-room table, 
 in company with various Ruskins and Punches, lay 
 a pretty, shining book called A Jar of Honey from 
 Mount Hybla, from which, in that dilettante, childish 
 fashion which is half play, half impatience, and search 
 for something else, we had contrived to extract our 
 own allowance of honey. It was still an event to 
 see a real author in those days, specially an au- 
 thor with a long cloak flung over his shoulder ; 
 though, for the matter of that, it is still and always 
 will be an event to see the faces and hear the voices 
 of those whose thoughts have added something 
 delightful to our lives. Not very long afterwards 
 came a different visitor, still belonging to that same 
 company of people. I had thrown open the dining- 
 room door and come in, looking for something, and 
 then I stopped short, for the room was not empty. 
 A striking and somewhat alarming -looking person 
 stood alone by the fireplace with folded arms a
 
 62 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 dark, impressive -looking man, not tall, but broad 
 and brown and weather-beaten gazing with a sort 
 of scowl at his own reflection in the glass. As I 
 entered he turned slowly and looked at me over 
 his shoulder. This time it was Trelawny, Byron's 
 biographer and companion, who had come to see 
 my father. He frowned, walked deliberately and 
 slowly from the room, and I saw him no more. 
 As I have said, all these people now seem almost 
 like figures out of a fairy tale. One could almost 
 as well imagine Sindbad, or Prince Charming, or the 
 Seven Champions of Christendom dropping in for 
 an hour's chat. But each generation, however mat- 
 ter-of-fact it may be, sets up fairy figures in turn, 
 to wonder at and delight in. I had not then read 
 any of the books which have since appeared, though 
 I had heard my elders talking, and I knew from 
 hearsay something of the strange, pathetic, irration- 
 al histories of these by-gone wanderers searching 
 the world for the Golden Fleece and the Enchanted 
 Gardens. These were the only members of that 
 special, impracticable, romantic crew of Argonauts 
 I ever saw, though I have read and reread their 
 histories and diaries so that I seem to know them 
 all, and can almost hear their voices. 
 
 One of the most notable persons who ever came 
 into our old bow-windowed drawing-room in Young
 
 MY WITCHES' CALDRON 63 
 
 Street is a guest never to be forgotten by me a 
 tiny, delicate little person, whose small hand nev- 
 ertheless grasped a mighty lever which set all the 
 literary world of that day vibrating. I can still see 
 the scene quite plainly ! the hot summer evening, 
 the open windows, the carriage driving to the door 
 as we all sat silent and expectant ; my father, who 
 rarely waited, waiting with us ; our governess and 
 my sister and I all in a row, and prepared for the 
 great event. We saw the carriage stop, and out of 
 it sprang the active, well-knit figure of young Mr. 
 George Smith, who was bringing Miss Bronte to 
 see our father. My father, who had been walking 
 up and down the room, goes out into the hall to 
 meet his guests, and then, after a moment's delay, 
 the door opens wide, and the two gentlemen come 
 in, leading a tiny, delicate, serious little lady, pale, 
 with fair, straight hair, and steady eyes. She may 
 be a little over thirty ; she is dressed in a little 
 barege dress with a pattern of faint green moss. 
 She enters in mittens, in silence, in seriousness ; 
 our hearts are beating with wild excitement. This, 
 then, is the authoress, the unknown power whose 
 books have set all London talking, reading, specu- 
 lating ; some people even say our father wrote the 
 books the wonderful books. To say that we little 
 girls had been given Jane Eyre to read scarcely rep- 
 resents the facts of the case ; to say that we had
 
 64 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 taken it without leave, read bits here and read bits 
 there, been carried away by an undreamed-of and 
 hitherto unimagined whirlwind into things, times, 
 places, all utterly absorbing and at the same time 
 absolutely unintelligible to us, would more accu- 
 rately describe our states of mind on that summer's 
 evening as we look at Jane Eyre the great Jane 
 Eyre the tiny little lady. The moment is so 
 breathless that dinner comes as a relief to the so- 
 lemnity of the occasion, and we all smile as my fa- 
 ther stoops to offer his arm, for, genius though she 
 may be, Miss Bronte can barely reach his elbow. 
 My own personal impressions are that she is some- 
 what grave and stern, specially to forward little 
 girls who wish to chatter. Mr. George Smith has 
 since told me how she afterwards remarked upon 
 my father's wonderful forbearance and gentleness 
 with our uncalled-for incursions into the conversa- 
 tion. She sat gazing at him with kindling eyes of 
 interest, lighting up with a sort of illumination ev- 
 ery now and then as she answered him. I can see 
 her bending forward over the table, not eating, but 
 listening to what he said as he carved the dish be- 
 fore him. 
 
 I think it must have been on this very occasion 
 that my father invited some of his friends in the 
 evening to meet Miss Bronte, for everybody was in- 
 terested and anxious to see her. Mrs. Crowe, the
 
 MY WITCHES' CALDRON 65 
 
 reciter of ghost-stories, was there. Mrs. Brookfield, 
 Mrs. Carlyle Mr. Carlyle himself was present, so I 
 am told, railing at the appearance of cockneys 
 upon Scotch mountain-sides ; there were also too 
 many Americans for his taste ; " but the Americans 
 were as God compared to the cockneys," says the 
 philosopher. Besides the Carlyles, there were Mrs. 
 Elliott and Miss Perry, Mrs. Procter and her daugh- 
 ter, most of my father's habitual friends and com- 
 panions. In the recent life of Lord Houghton I 
 was amused to see a note quoted in which Lord 
 Houghton also was convened. Would that he had 
 been present ! perhaps the party would have gone 
 off better. It was a gloomy and a silent evening. 
 Every one waited for the brilliant conversation 
 which never began at all. Miss Bronte retired to 
 the sofa in the study, and murmured a low word 
 now and then to our kind governess, Miss Truelock. 
 The room looked very dark ; the lamp began to 
 smoke a little ; the conversation grew dimmer and 
 more dim ; the ladies sat round still expectant ; my 
 father was too much perturbed by the gloom and 
 the silence to be able to cope with it at all. Mrs. 
 Brookfield, who was in the doorway by the study, 
 near the corner in which Miss Bronte was sitting, 
 leaned forward with a little commonplace, since brill- 
 iance was not to be the order of the evening. "Do 
 you like London, Miss Bronte?" she said. Another
 
 66 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 silence, a pause; then Miss Bronte answers "Yes" 
 and " No " very gravely. My sister and I were much 
 too young to be bored in those days ; alarmed, im- 
 pressed we might be, but not yet bored. A party 
 was a party, a lioness was a lioness ; and shall I 
 confess it ? at that time an extra dish of biscuits 
 was enough to mark the evening. We felt all the 
 importance of the occasion tea spread in the din- 
 ing-room, ladies in the drawing-room. We roamed 
 about inconveniently, no doubt, and excitedly; and 
 in one of my excursions crossing the hall, towards 
 the close of the entertainment, I was surprised to 
 see my father opening the front door with his hat 
 on. He put his fingers to his lips, walked out into 
 the darkness, and shut the door quietly behind 
 him. When I went back to the drawing-room 
 again, the ladies asked me where he was. I vague- 
 ly answered that I thought he was coming back. I 
 was puzzled at the time, nor was it all made clear 
 to me till long years afterwards, when one day Mrs. 
 Procter asked me if I knew what had happened 
 once when my father had invited a party to meet 
 Jane Eyre at his house. It was one of the dullest 
 evenings she had ever spent in her life, she said. 
 And then with a good deal of humor she described 
 the situation the ladies who had all come expect- 
 ing so much delightful conversation, and how as 
 the evening went on the gloom and the constraint
 
 MY WITCHES' CALDRON 67 
 
 increased, and how finally, after the departure of 
 the more important guests, overwhelmed by the 
 situation, my father had quietly left the room, left 
 the house, and gone off to his club. The ladies 
 waited, wondered, and finally departed also ; and 
 as we were going up to bed with our candles after 
 everybody was gone, I remember two pretty Miss 
 L s, in shiny silk dresses, arriving, full of ex- 
 pectation. . . . We still said we thought our father 
 
 would soon be back ; but the Miss L s declined 
 
 to wait upon the chance, laughed, and drove away 
 again almost immediately. 
 
 Since writing the preceding lines, I have visited 
 Jane Eyre land, and stayed in the delightful home 
 where she used to stay with Mrs. Gaskell. I have 
 seen signs and tokens of her presence, faint sketch- 
 es vanishing away, the delicate writing in the beau- 
 tiful books she gave that warm friend ; and I have 
 also looked for and reread the introduction to 
 Emma, that " last sketch " and most touching chap- 
 ter in the never-to-be-written book of Charlotte 
 Bronte's happy married life. The paper is signed 
 " W. M. T. ;" it was written by the editor, and is 
 printed in one of the very earliest numbers of the 
 Cornliill Magazine. 
 
 I remember the trembling little frame, the little
 
 68 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 hand, the great honest eyes ; an impetuous honesty 
 seemed to me to characterize the woman. ... I fan- 
 cied an austere little Joan of Arc marching in upon 
 us and rebuking our easy lives, our easy morals. 
 She gave me the impression of being a very pure 
 and lofty and high-minded person. A great and 
 holy reverence of right and truth seemed to be 
 with her always. Such in our brief interview she 
 appeared to me. As one thinks of that life so no- 
 ble, so lonely of that passion for truth of those 
 nights and nights of eager study, swarming fancies, 
 invention, depression, elation, and prayer ; as one 
 reads of the necessarily incomplete though most 
 touching and admirable history of the heart that 
 throbbed in this one little frame of this one 
 among the myriads of souls that have lived and 
 died on this great earth this great earth ! this 
 little speck in the infinite universe of God, with 
 what wonder do we think of to-day, with what awe 
 await to-morrow, when that which is now but dark- 
 ly seen shall be clear ! 
 
 As I write out what my father's hand has writ- 
 ten my gossip is hushed, and seems to me like the 
 lamp smoke in the old drawing-room compared to 
 the light of the summer's night in the street outside. 
 
 I am suddenly conscious as I write that my ex-
 
 MY WITCHES' CALDRON 69 
 
 pcriences arc very partial ; but a witch's caldron 
 must needs after all contain heterogeneous scraps, 
 and mine, alas ! can be no exception to the rest. 
 It produces nothing more valuable than odds and 
 ends happily harmless enough, neither sweltered 
 venom nor fillet of finny snake, but the back of 
 one great man's head, the hat and umbrella of an- 
 other. The first time I ever saw Mr. Gladstone I 
 only saw the soles of his boots. A friend had taken 
 me into the ventilator of the House of Commons, 
 where we listened to a noble speech and watched 
 the two shadows on the grating overhead of the 
 feet of the messenger of glad tidings. One special 
 back I cannot refrain from writing down, in a dark 
 blue frock-coat and strapped trousers, walking lei- 
 surely before us up Piccadilly. The sun is shining, 
 and an odd sort of brass buckle which fastens an 
 old-fashioned stock, flashes like a star. " Do look !" 
 I say. " Who is that old gentleman ?" " That old 
 gentleman ! Why, that is the Duke of Welling- 
 ton," said my father. On another occasion I re- 
 member some one coming up to us and beginning 
 to talk very charmingly, and among other things 
 describing some new lord mayor who had been 
 in state to a theatrical performance, by which it 
 seemed he had been much affected. " I cried, I do 
 assure you," the lord mayor had said, "and as for 
 the lady mayoress, she cry too ;" and the gentle-
 
 70 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 man smiled and told the little story so dryly and 
 drolly that my sister and I couldn't help laughing, 
 and we went on repeating to one another after- 
 wards, " As for the lady mayoress, she cry too." 
 And then as usual we asked who was that. " Don't 
 you know Lord Palmerston by sight?" said my fa- 
 ther. 
 
 I have a friend who declares that Fate is a hu- 
 morist, linking us all together by strangest whims, 
 even by broad jokes at times ; and this vague little 
 humor of the weeping lady mayoress is my one per- 
 sonal link with the great Whig administrator of the 
 last generation. 
 
 Another miscellaneous apparition out of my cal- 
 dron rises before me as I write. On a certain day 
 we went to call at Mrs. Procter's with our father. 
 We found an old man standing in the middle of 
 the room, taking leave of his hostess, nodding his 
 head he was a little like a Chinese mandarin with 
 an ivory face. His expression never changed, but 
 seemed quite fixed. He knew my father, and spoke 
 to him and to us too, still in this odd, fixed way. 
 Then he looked at my sister. " My little girl," he 
 said to her, " will you come and live with me ? You 
 shall be as happy as the day is long; you shall have 
 a white pony to ride, and feed upon red -currant 
 jelly." This prospect was so alarming and unex- 
 pected that the poor little girl suddenly blushed up
 
 MY WITCHES' CALDRON 71 
 
 and burst into tears. The old man was Mr. Sam- 
 uel Rogers, but happily he did not see her cry, for 
 he was already on his way to the door. 
 
 My father was very fond of going to the play, 
 and he used to take us when we were children, one 
 on each side of him, in a hansom. He used to take 
 us to the opera too, which was less of a treat. Mag- 
 nificent envelopes, with unicorns and heraldic em- 
 blazonments, used to come very frequently, contain- 
 ing tickets and boxes for the opera. In those days 
 we thought everybody had boxes for the opera as 
 a matter of course. We used to be installed in the 
 front places with our chins resting on the velvet 
 ledges of the box. For a time it used to be very 
 delightful, then sometimes I used suddenly to wake 
 up to find the singing still going on and on as in a 
 dream. I can still see Lablache, a huge reverberat- 
 ing mountain, a sort of Olympus, thundering forth 
 glorious sounds, and addressing deep resounding 
 notes to what seemed to me then a sort of fairy in 
 white. She stood on tiny feet, she put up a deli- 
 cate finger and sent forth a sweet vibration of song 
 in answer, sweeter, shriller, more charming every 
 instant. Did she fly right up into the air, or was it 
 my own head that came down with a sleepy nod ? 
 I slept, I awoke ; and each time I was conscious of 
 this exquisite floating ripple of music flowing in 
 and out of my dreams. The singer was Mademoi-
 
 72 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 selle Sontag ; it was the " Elisire," or some such 
 opera, overflowing like a lark's carol. All the great 
 golden house applauded ; my father applauded. I 
 longed to hear more, but in vain I struggled, I only 
 slumbered again, waking from minute to minute to 
 see the lovely little lady in white still pouring forth 
 her melody to the thousand lights and people. I 
 find when I consult my faithful confidante and sym- 
 pathizer in these small memories of what is now so 
 nearly forgotten, that I am not alone in my admir- 
 ing impressions of this charming person. My con- 
 fidante is the Biographic Genera le, where I find an 
 account, no sleepy visionary impression, such as my 
 own, but a very definite and charming portrait of 
 the bright fairy of my dreams, of Mademoiselle 
 Sontag, Comtesse Rossi, who came to London in 
 1849 : " O n remarquait surtout la limpidite de ses 
 gammes chromatiques et 1'eclat de ses trilles . . . 
 Et toutes ces merveilles s'accomplissaient avec une 
 grace parfaite, sans que le regard fut jamais attriste 
 par le moindre effort. La figure charmante de Ma- 
 demoiselle Sontag, ses beaux yeux bleus, limpides 
 et doux, ses formes elegantes, sa taille elancee et 
 souple achevaient le tableau et completaient 1'en- 
 chantement." 
 
 It seems sad to have enjoyed this delightful per- 
 formance only in one's dreams, but under these hu- 
 miliating circumstances, when the whole world was
 
 MY WITCHES' CALDRON 73 
 
 heaving and struggling to hear the great singer of 
 the North, and when the usual box arrived for the 
 " Figlia del Reggimento," my grandmother, who 
 was with us, invited two friends of her own, grown 
 up and accustomed to keep awake, and my sister 
 and I were not included in the party. We were not 
 disappointed, we imagined the songs for ourselves 
 as children do. We gathered all our verbenas and 
 geraniums for a nosegay and gave it to our guests 
 to carry, and watched the carriage roll off in the 
 twilight with wild hopes, unexpressed, that perhaps 
 the flowers would be cast upon the stage at the feet 
 of the great singer. But though the flowers re- 
 turned home again crushed and dilapidated, and 
 though we did not hear the song, it was a reality 
 for me, and lasted until a day long years after, when 
 I heard that stately and glorious voice flashing into 
 my darkness with a shock of amazement never to 
 be forgotten, and then and there realized how fu- 
 tile an imagination may be. 
 
 Alas ! I never possessed a note of music of my 
 own, though I have cared for it in a patient, unre- 
 quited way all my life long. My father always loved 
 music and understood it too ; he knew his opera 
 tunes by heart. I have always liked the little story 
 of his landing with his companions at Malta on his 
 way to the East, and as no one of the company 
 happened to speak Italian he was able to interpret
 
 74 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 for the whole party by humming lines from various 
 operas, " ' Un biglietto Eccolo qua,' " says my fa- 
 ther to the man from the shore, " ' Lascia darem' la 
 mano,' " and he helped Lady T. up the gangway, 
 and so on. He used sometimes to bring Mr. Ella 
 home to dine with him, and he liked to hear his 
 interesting talk about music. Through Mr. Ella's 
 kindness the doors of the Musical Union flew open 
 wide to us. 
 
 My father used to write in his study at the back 
 of the house in Young Street. The vine shaded 
 his two windows, which looked out upon the bit of 
 garden and the medlar-tree and the Spanish jas- 
 mines of which the yellow flowers scented our old 
 brick walls. I can remember the tortoise belong- 
 ing to the boys next door crawling along the top 
 of the wall where they had set it, and making its 
 way between the jasmine sprigs. Jasmines won't 
 grow now any more, as they did then, in the gar- 
 dens of Kensington, nor will medlars and vine trees 
 take root and spread their green branches ; only 
 herbs and bulbs, such as lilies and Solomon's seals, 
 seem to flourish, though I have a faint hope that 
 all the things people put in will come up all right 
 some centuries hence, when London is resting and 
 at peace, and has turned into the grass-grown ruin 
 one so often hears described. Our garden was not 
 tidy (though on one grand occasion a man came
 
 MY WITCHES CALDRON 75 
 
 to mow the grass), but it was full of sweet things. 
 There were verbenas red, blue, and scented ; and 
 there were lovely stacks of flags, blades of green 
 with purple heads between, and bunches of Lon- 
 don-pride growing luxuriantly; and there were 
 some blush-roses at the end of the garden which 
 were not always quite eaten up by the caterpillars. 
 Lady Duff Gordon came to stay with us once (it 
 was on that occasion, I think, that the grass was 
 mowed), and she afterwards sent us some doves, 
 which used to hang high up in a wicker cage from 
 the windows of the school-room. The top school- 
 room was over my father's bedroom, and the bed- 
 room was over the study where he used to write. 
 I liked the top school -room the best of all the 
 rooms in the dear old house ; the sky was in it, and 
 the evening bells used to ring into it across the 
 garden, and seemed to come in dancing and clang- 
 ing with the sunset ; and the floor sloped so that if 
 you put down a ball it would roll in a leisurely way 
 right across the room of its own accord. And then 
 there was a mystery a small trap -door between 
 the windows which we never could open. Where 
 did not that trap-do'or lead to? It was the gate- 
 way of Paradise, of many paradises to us. We kept 
 our dolls, our bricks, our books, our baby-houses in 
 the top room, and most of our stupid little fancies. 
 My little sister had a menagerie of snails and flies
 
 76 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 in the sunny window-sill ; these latter, chiefly inva- 
 lids rescued out of milk-jugs, lay upon rose-leaves 
 in various little pots and receptacles. She was 
 very fond of animals, and so was my father at 
 least, he always liked our animals. Now, looking 
 back, I am full of wonder at the number of cats 
 we were allowed to keep, though De la Pluche, 
 the butler, and Gray, the housekeeper, waged war 
 against them. The cats used to come to us from 
 the garden, for then, as now, the open spaces of 
 Kensington abounded in fauna. My sister used to 
 adopt and christen them all in turn by the names 
 of her favorite heroes; she had Nicholas Nickleby, 
 a huge gray tabby, and Martin Chuzzlewit, and a 
 poor little half-starved Barnaby Rudge, and many 
 others. Their saucers used to be placed in a row 
 on the little terrace at the back of my father's 
 study, under the vine where the sour green grapes 
 grew not at all out of reach ; and at the farther 
 end of which was an empty greenhouse ornamented 
 by the busts of my father as a boy, and of a rela- 
 tion in a military cloak. 
 
 One of my friends she never lived to be an 
 old woman used to laugh and say that she had 
 reached the time of life when she loved to see 
 even the people her parents had particularly dis- 
 liked, just for the sake of old times. I don't know 
 how I should feel if I were to meet one agreeable,
 
 MY WITCHES' CALDRON 77 
 
 cordial gentleman, who used to come on horseback 
 and invite us to all sorts of dazzling treats and en- 
 tertainments which, to our great disappointment, 
 my father invariably refused, saying, " No, I don't 
 like him ; I don't want to have anything to do with 
 him." The wretched man fully justified these ob- 
 jections by getting himself transported long after 
 for a protracted course of peculiarly deliberate and 
 cold-blooded fraud. On one occasion, a friend told 
 me, he was talking to my father, and mentioning 
 some one in good repute at the time, and my fa- 
 ther incidentally spoke as if he knew of a murder 
 that person had committed. " You know it, then !" 
 said the other man. " Who could have told you?" 
 My father had never been told, but he had known 
 it all along, he said ; and, indeed, he sometimes 
 spoke of this curious feeling he had about people 
 at times, as if uncomfortable facts in their past his- 
 tory were actually revealed to him. At the same 
 time I do not think anybody had a greater enjoy- 
 ment than he in other people's goodness and well- 
 doing ; he used to be proud of a boy's prizes at 
 school, he used to be proud of a woman's sweet 
 voice or of her success in housekeeping. He had 
 a friend in the Victoria Road hard by whose de- 
 lightful household ways he used to describe, and I 
 can still hear the lady he called " Jingleby " war- 
 bling " O du schone Miillerin," to his great delight.
 
 78 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 Any generous thing or word seemed like something 
 happening to himself. I can remember, when David 
 Coppcrficld came out, hearing him saying, in his em- 
 phatic way, to my grandmother that " little Em'ly's 
 letter to old Peggotty was a masterpiece." I won- 
 dered to hear him at the time, for that was not at 
 all the part I cared for most, nor, indeed, could I 
 imagine how little Em'ly ever was so stupid as to 
 run away from Peggotty's enchanted house-boat. 
 But we each and all enjoyed in turn our share of 
 those thin green books full of delicious things, and 
 how glad we were when they came to our hands at 
 last, after our elders and our governess and our but- 
 ler had all read them in turn. 
 
 It is curious to me now to remember, considering 
 how little we met and what a long way off they 
 lived, what an important part the Dickens house- 
 hold played in our childhood. But the Dickens 
 books were as much a part of our home as our own 
 father's. 
 
 Certainly the Dickens children's parties were 
 shining facts in our early London days nothing 
 came in the least near them. There were other 
 parties and they were very nice but nothing to 
 compare to these ; not nearly so light, not nearly 
 so shining, not nearly so going round and round. 
 Perhaps so dear K. P. suggests it was not all as 
 brilliantly wonderful as I imagined it ; but most as-
 
 MY WITCHES CALDRON 79 
 
 suredly the spirit of mirth and kindly jollity was 
 a reality to every one present, and the master of 
 the house had that wondrous fairy gift of leader- 
 ship. I know not what to call that power by which 
 he inspired every one with spirit and interest. One 
 special party I remember, which seemed to me to 
 go on for years with its kind, gay hospitality, its 
 music, its streams of children passing and repass- 
 ing. We were a little shy coming in alone in all 
 the consciousness of new shoes and ribbons, but 
 Mrs. Dickens called us to sit beside her till the 
 long sweeping dance was over, and talked to us as 
 if we were grown up, which is always flattering to 
 little girls. Then Miss Hogarth found us partners, 
 and we, too, formed part of the throng. I remem- 
 ber watching the white satin shoes and long flow- 
 ing white sashes of the little Dickens girls, who were 
 just about our own age, but how much more grace- 
 ful and beautifully dressed ! Our sashes were bright 
 plaids of red and blue (tributes from one of our 
 father's Scotch admirers. Is it ungrateful to con- 
 fess now after all these years that we could not 
 bear them ?), our shoes were only bronze. Shall I 
 own to this passing shadow amid all that radiance ? 
 But when people are once dancing they are all 
 equal again and happy. 
 
 Somehow after the music we all floated into a long 
 supper-room, and I found myself sitting near the
 
 8o CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 head of the table by Mr. Dickens, with another little 
 girl much younger than myself; she wore a necklace 
 and pretty little sausage curls all round her head. 
 Mr. Dickens was very kind to the little girl, and 
 presently I heard him persuading her to sing, and 
 he put his arm round her to encourage her ; and 
 then, wonderful to say, the little girl stood up (she 
 was little Miss Hullah) and began very shyly, trem- 
 bling and blushing at first, but as she blushed and 
 trembled she sang more and more sweetly ; and then 
 all i\\Q jcuncsse dorcc, consisting of the little Dickens 
 boys and their friends, ranged along the supper-table, 
 clapped and clapped, and Mr. Dickens clapped too, 
 smiling and applauding her. And then he made a 
 little speech, with one hand on the table ; I think 
 it was thanking \\\z jcunesse dorc'e for their applause, 
 and they again clapped and laughed but here my 
 memory fails me, and everything grows very vague 
 and like a dream. 
 
 Only this much I do remember very clearly, that 
 we had danced and supped and danced again, and 
 that we were all standing in a hall lighted and hung 
 with bunches of Christmas green, and, as I have 
 said, everything seemed altogether magnificent and 
 important, more magnificent and important every 
 minute, for as the evening went on more and more 
 people kept arriving. The hall was crowded, and 
 the broad staircase was lined with little boys
 
 MY WITCHES' CALDRON 81 
 
 thousands of little boys whose heads and legs and 
 arms were waving about together. They were 
 making a great noise, and talking and shouting, 
 and the eldest son of the house seemed to be mar- 
 shalling them. Presently their noise became a 
 cheer, and then another, and we looked up and 
 saw that our own father had come to fetch us, and 
 that his white head was there above the others ; 
 then came a third final ringing cheer, and some one 
 went up to him it was Mr. Dickens himself who 
 laughed and said quickly, "That is for you !" and 
 my father looked up surprised, pleased, touched, 
 settled his spectacles, and nodded gravely to the 
 little boys.
 
 IN KENSINGTON
 
 VI 
 
 OURS was more or less a bachelor's establishment, 
 and the arrangements of the house varied between 
 a certain fastidiousness and the roughest simplicity. 
 We had shabby table-cloths, alternating with some 
 of my grandmother's fine linen; we had old Derby 
 china for our dessert of dried figs and dry biscuits, 
 and a silver Flaxman teapot (which always poured 
 oblations of tea upon the cloth) for breakfast, also 
 three cracked cups and saucers of unequal patterns 
 and sizes. One morning, Jeames de la Pluche (so 
 my father's servant and factotum chose to call him- 
 self when he wrote to the papers) brought in a 
 hamper which had just arrived. When it was un- 
 packed we found, to our great satisfaction, that it 
 contained a lovely breakfast array: A china bowl 
 for my father's tea, ornamented with his initials in 
 gold amid a trellis of roses; beautiful cups for the 
 young ladies, lovely gilt milk-jugs, and a copy of 
 verses, not written, but put together out of printed 
 letters from the Times. I quote it from memory: 
 
 "Of esteem as a token 
 Fate preserve it unbroken
 
 86 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 A friend sends this tea-dish of porcelain rare, 
 
 And with truth and sincerity 
 
 Wishes health and prosperity 
 
 To the famed M. A. Titmarsh of Vanity Fair." 
 
 We could not imagine who the friend was from 
 whom the opportune present had come. For many 
 breakfasts we speculated and wondered, guessing 
 one person and another in turn, while we sat at our 
 now elegant board, of which Dr. Oliver Holmes him- 
 self might have approved. Years afterwards, when 
 De la Pluche was taking leave of my father and sail- 
 ing for Australia, where he obtained a responsible 
 position, he said, reproachfully : "I sent you the 
 breakfast things; you guessed a great many people, 
 but you never guessed they came from me." 
 
 De la Pluche was devoted to my father, and next 
 to him he seemed the most important member of 
 the household. He was more than devoted. We 
 used to think he was a sorcerer. He used to guess 
 at my father's thoughts, plan for him, work for 
 him, always knew beforehand what he would like 
 far better than we ever did. I remember that we 
 almost cried on one occasion, thinking that our 
 father would ultimately prefer him to us. He used 
 to write to the papers and sign his letters, " Jeames 
 de la Pluche, 13 Young Street." (i Like to see my 
 last, miss?" he used to say, as he put down a paper 
 on the school-room table. He was a very good and
 
 IN KENSINGTON 87 
 
 clever man, though a stern ruler. My father had a 
 real friendship and regard for him, and few of his 
 friends ever deserved it more. He lived alone 
 down-stairs, where he was treated with great defer- 
 ence, and had his meals served separately, I believe. 
 He always called my father "the Governor." He 
 was a little man, and was very like Holbein's pict- 
 ure of Sir Thomas More in looks. I remember on 
 one occasion coming away from some lecture or 
 entertainment. As we got out into the street it 
 was raining. " It has turned cold," said my father, 
 who was already beginning to be ill. At that mo- 
 ment a voice behind him said, "Coat, sir? Brought 
 it down ;" and there was De la Pluche, who had 
 brought his coat all the way from Kensington, help- 
 ing him on with it. My father thanked him, and 
 then mechanically felt in the pocket for a possible 
 cigar-case. "Cigar? Here," says De la Pluche, pop- 
 ping one into my father's mouth, and producing a 
 match ready lighted. 
 
 I sometimes hear from my old friend, and I hope 
 he may not be pained by reading of these childish 
 jealousies long past. 
 
 When we were children attending our classes we 
 used to be encouraged to study large sheets with 
 colored designs, representing the solar system and 
 its various intricacies. One can understand the 
 pictures in the book while one is looking at them,
 
 88 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 but it is a very different thing from looking at pict- 
 ures to try to understand the reality as it exists 
 outside the print, and to stand on one's own door- 
 step trying to realize that the earth is turning one 
 way and the moon corkscrewing round it, and the 
 planets dancing their mighty course, and the fixed 
 stars disappearing all the time behind the opposite 
 roof, to say nothing of a possibility that one's feet 
 are up in the air and one's head hanging down below, 
 without any feeling of inconvenience, except, per- 
 haps, a certain bewilderment and confusion on most 
 subjects, which may, however, be peculiar to myself. 
 And so, looking back at one's own life, it is difficult 
 to fit all the events and chronologies quite accu- 
 rately into their places. If one tries to realize too 
 much at once, the impression is apt to grow chaotic 
 and unmeaning in its complexity ; you can't get 
 the proportions of events; and perhaps, indeed, 
 one of the compensating constituents of all our 
 various existences consists in that disproportion 
 which passing impressions happily take for us, arid 
 which they often retain notwithstanding the expe- 
 riences of years. 
 
 That little picture of Bewick's in which a 
 falling leaf conceals the sky, the road, the passing 
 gig and its occupants, has always seemed to me to 
 contain the secret of a philosophy which makes ex- 
 istence itself more possible than it would be if infin-
 
 IN KENSINGTON 89 
 
 ity held its proportional place in our finite expe- 
 rience. 
 
 Our London home was a happy, but a very quiet 
 home. One day my father said that he had been 
 surprised to hear from his friend Sir Henry Davi- 
 son how seriously our house struck people, com- 
 pared to other houses: "But I think we are very 
 happy as we are," said he, and so, indeed, we were. 
 We lived chiefly with him and with quite little chil- 
 dren, or with our grandparents when they came over 
 to visit us. There was certainly a want of initiation ; 
 in our house there was no one to suggest all sorts 
 of delightful possibilities, which, as we grew up, 
 might have been made more of; but looking back 
 I chiefly regret it in so far as I think he might have 
 been happier if we had brought a little more action 
 and sunshine into daily life, and taken a little more 
 on our own responsibility instead of making our- 
 selves into his shadows. 
 
 When my father had done his day's work he 
 liked a change of scene and thought. I think he 
 was always glad to leave the ink-blots for his be- 
 loved dabs of paint. Sometimes he used to drive 
 into town on the top of an omnibus, sometimes in a 
 brougham ; very often he used to take us with him 
 in hansoms (which we much preferred) on long ex- 
 peditions to Hampstead, to Richmond, to Green- 
 wich, or to studios in distant quarters of the town.
 
 90 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 There was Mr. David Roberts's studio; his welcome 
 was certain, and his sketch-books were an unfail- 
 ing delight to turn over ; indeed, the drawings were 
 so accurate, delicate, and suggestive that they used 
 to make one almost giddy to look at. Once or 
 twice we went to Mr. Cattermole's, who had a studio 
 among the Hampstead hills, hidden among ancient 
 walls and ivy-trees. Mr. Du Maurier was not yet 
 living there, or I am sure we should have driven 
 farther up the hill. As life goes on one grudges 
 that time and chance alone should have separated 
 people who would have been so happy with each 
 other. Sometimes we used to go to Sir Edwin 
 Landseer's beautiful villa in St. John's Wood, and 
 enjoy his delightful company. Among his many 
 stories, as he stood painting at his huge canvases, 
 I remember his once telling us an anecdote of one 
 of his dogs. He was in the habit of taking it out 
 every day after his work was over. The dog used 
 to wait patiently all day long while Sir Edwin was 
 painting, but he used to come and lie down at his 
 feet and look up in his face towards five o'clock; 
 and on one occasion, finding his hints disregarded, 
 he trotted into the hall and came back with the 
 painter's hat, which he laid on the floor before him. 
 Then we always enjoyed going on to the house 
 of a neighbor of Sir Edwin's, Mr. Charles Leslie, 
 who dwelt somewhere in that locality with a de-
 
 IN KENSINGTON 91 
 
 lightful household. To say nothing of the act- 
 ual members of that painter's home, there were 
 others also belonging to it who were certainly all 
 but alive. I can still see my father standing in 
 the South Kensington Museum, sympathetic and 
 laughing before the picture of Sancho Panza, in 
 which he sits with his ringer to his nose, with that 
 look of portentous wisdom and absurdity. As for 
 the charming duchess, whose portrait is also to be 
 seen, she, or her prototypes, must surely have dwelt 
 in the painter's own home. Mr. Dickens used to 
 be at the Leslies' sometimes, and though I cannot 
 quite account for it, I have a general impression 
 of fireworks perpetually going off just outside their 
 windows. 
 
 One day that we had come home from one of 
 these expeditions in a big blue fly, with a bony 
 horse it was a bright blue fly, with a drab inside 
 to it, and an old white coachman on the box my 
 father, after a few words of consultation with the 
 coachman, drove off again, and shortly afterwards 
 returning on foot, told us that he had just bought 
 the whole concern, brougham and horse and har- 
 ness, and that he had sent Jackson (our driver had 
 now become Jackson) to be measured for a great- 
 coat. So henceforward we came and went about in 
 our own private carriage, which, however, never 
 lost its original name of "the fly," although Jack-
 
 Q2 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 son's buttons shone resplendent with the Thack- 
 eray crest, and the horse, too, seemed brushed up 
 and promoted to be private. 
 
 I remember, or I think I remember, driving in 
 this vehicle to Mr. Frank Stone's studio in Tavi- 
 stock Square, and how he and my father began 
 laughing and talking about early days. " Do you 
 remember that portrait I began to paint of you 
 over the lady with the guitar?" Mr. Stone said, and 
 he added that he had the picture still, and, go- 
 ing into some deep cupboard, he brought out a 
 cheerful, florid picture of my father as I for one had 
 never seen him, with thick black hair and a young, 
 ruddy face. We brought it away with us, and I 
 have it now, and the lady's red dress still appears in 
 the background. It is perhaps fortunate that peo- 
 ple, as a rule, are well and happy, and at their best, 
 when their portraits are painted. If one looks down 
 the Academy list year by year, one sees that the 
 pictures represent gentlemen who have just been 
 made bishops, or speakers, or governors - general ; 
 or ladies who are brides in their lovely new clothes 
 and jewels. Sad folks hide their heads, sick folks 
 turn them away and are not fit subjects for the 
 painter's art ; and yet, as I write, I am also con- 
 scious that facts contradict me, and that there has 
 been a fine run of late upon nurses and death-bed 
 scenes in cncral.
 
 IN KENSINGTON 93 
 
 The happy hour had not yet come for us when 
 Mr. Watts came to live in Kensington at Little 
 Holland House, and built his studios there. This 
 was in later times, and after we had just passed 
 beyond the great pinafore age, which sets such a 
 stamp upon after-life, and to which my recollections 
 seem chiefly to revert. 
 
 He always said that he should like to paint a 
 picture of my father, but the day for the sitting, 
 alas, never came. And yet I can imagine what that 
 picture might have been a portrait, such as some 
 portraits, with that mysterious reality in them, that 
 present, which is quite apart from time and dates. 
 
 I am sure there was no one among all his friends 
 whose society my father enjoyed more than he did 
 that of John Leech, whom he first remembered, so 
 he has often told us with a smile, a small boy at the 
 Charterhouse, in a little blue buttoned-up suit, set 
 up on a form and made to sing " Home, Sweet 
 Home " to the others crowding round about. Mr. 
 Leech was anything but a small boy when I remem- 
 ber him in the old Young Street dining-room, where 
 De la Pluche was laying the cloth while Mr. Leech 
 and my father sat talking by the fire. He was very 
 handsome and tall, and kind and shy, and he spoke 
 in a husky, melodious voice ; we admired him very 
 much ; he was always beautifully dressed, and we 
 used to see him come riding up to the door on nice
 
 94 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 shining horses ; and he generally came to invite us 
 all to something delightful, to go there or to dine 
 with him and his wife at Richmond or elsewhere. 
 My father liked to take us about with him, and I 
 am surprised, as I think of it, at the great good-nat- 
 ure of his friends, who used so constantly to include 
 two inconvenient little girls in the various invita- 
 tions they sent him. We used to be asked early, 
 and to arrive at all sorts of unusual times. We used 
 to lunch with our hosts and spend long afternoons, 
 and then about dinner-time our father would come 
 in, and sit smoking after dinner while we waited 
 with patient ladies up-stairs. Mrs. Brookfield used 
 to live in Portman Street in those days, and thither 
 we used to go very frequently, and to Mrs. Proc- 
 ter's, as well as to various relations' houses, Indian 
 cousins of my father's coming to town for a sea- 
 son with their colonels and their families. Time 
 after time we used to go to the Leeches, who lived 
 in Brunswick Square. We used to play with the 
 baby, we used to turn over endless books of pict- 
 ures, and perhaps go out for a walk with kind Mrs. 
 Leech, and sometimes (but this happened very 
 rarely) we used to be taken up to the room where 
 John Leech himself sat at his drawing-table under 
 the square of silver paper which softened the light 
 as it fell upon his blocks. There was his back as he 
 bent over his work, there were the tables loaded
 
 IN KENSINGTON 95 
 
 with picture-books and drawing-blocks, huge blocks, 
 four times the size of any at home, ready for next 
 week's Punch ; but our entrance disturbed him (we 
 instinctively felt how much), and we used to hurry 
 quickly back to the drawing-books down-stairs, and 
 go on turning over the pencil sketches. I have some 
 of them now, those drawings so roughly indicated, 
 at first so vague, and then by degrees worked upon 
 and altered and modelled and forced into their life 
 as it were, obliged to laugh, charmed into kindly 
 wit ; as I look at them now, I still recognize the 
 aspect of those by-gone days and places, and I can- 
 not help thinking how much more interesting to 
 remember are some of the shabby homes in which 
 work and beauty and fun are made, than those more 
 luxurious and elaborate, which dazzle us so much 
 more at the time, where everything one saw was 
 only bought. But, after all, the whole secret of life 
 is made up of the things one makes, and those one 
 steals, and those one pays for. 
 
 My own children turn over Leech's drawings now, 
 as happily as we ourselves used to do, and it seems 
 to me sometimes as if they also are at play among 
 our own old fancies and in our old haunts. There 
 are the rooms again. There is Mrs. Leech's old 
 piano like an organ standing bolt upright against 
 the wall ; there are the brown-holland covers on the 
 chairs; there is the domestic lamp, looking (as the
 
 9 6 
 
 lamps of one's youth used to look) tall and disman- 
 tled like some gaunt light-house erected upon bare 
 mahogany rocks. Besides these things, I remember 
 with real affection a lovely little miniature portrait 
 of Mrs. Leech, which used to hang upon the wall, 
 and which was done at the time of her marriage. 
 It was indeed the sweetest little picture ; and when 
 I saw her one little granddaughter, Dorothy Gil- 
 lett, this old favorite picture of my childhood came 
 into my mind. It may be hallucination, but, al- 
 though the houses were so ugly in those days, I 
 still think the people in them looked almost nicer 
 then than they do now. 
 
 Madame Elise was the great oracle of the 'Fif- 
 ties, and she used to turn out floating, dignified, 
 squashy beings with close pearly head-dresses and 
 bonnets, and sloping, spreading draperies. They 
 are all to be seen in Mr. Leech's pictures still, and 
 they may be about to come back to life, crinolines 
 and all, for anything I know to the contrary. But 
 I hope not; I think this present generation 'of 
 women is a happier one than that one was. The 
 characters of the people I remember were certainly 
 different from the characters of their daughters of 
 the present, disporting themselves in the golden 
 Du Maurier age of liberty and out-door life. Mr. 
 Leech once drew our own green curtains for us in 
 a little picture of two girls asking a child what it
 
 IN KENSINGTON 97 
 
 had for dinner. The child says, " Something that 
 begins with a S " ; and when asked what that might 
 be, explains that it was cold beef. 
 
 A certain number of writers and designers for 
 PuiicJt used to dine at Mr. Leech's, coming in with 
 my father towards the close of the day. I remem- 
 ber Mr. Tcnniel there, and Mr. Percival Leigh, and 
 Mr. Shirley Brooks, and Millais in later days, and 
 an eminent member of a different profession, the 
 present Dean of Rochester. Sometimes, instead 
 of dining in Brunswick Square or at the house in 
 Kensington (to which they afterwards removed), 
 we used to be taken all away to Richmond, to en- 
 joy happy hours upon the terrace, and the light of 
 setting suns. 
 
 My father was pleased when some dozen years 
 later the Leeches came to Kensington, and he was 
 greatly interested in their pretty old house. Mr. 
 Leech was pleased too ; and at first he used to 
 describe with resigned humor what, alas, became 
 slow torture in the end to his strained nerves 
 the different noises as they succeeded each other 
 in what he had expected to find a quiet suburb 
 of London : the milkman, the carrier, the industri- 
 ous carpenter, all following in rotation one by one, 
 from the very earliest morning. But his nerves 
 were altogether overstrung. I remember hearing
 
 98 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 him once, in far, far back times, tell a little story, 
 scarcely perhaps worth retelling. He was looking 
 altogether ill and upset, and he told us that he 
 had hardly recovered from a little shock the night 
 before. Coming home late, and as he went up- 
 stairs, he had been annoyed by hearing the howl- 
 ing of a dog in a garden at the back of the house. 
 He did not know that one of his young sisters 
 had come to see his wife that evening, had been 
 persuaded to stay for the night, and put to sleep 
 in the very room into which he no\v turned, throw- 
 ing up the window to see where the noise came 
 from. The moon was shining, and happening to 
 look round he was quite overcome, seeing a fig- 
 ure lying motionless upon the bed, while the light 
 poured coldly upon a white marble profile. 
 
 I was going along the Kensington Road towards 
 Palace Green one fine morning, when I met my fa- 
 ther carefully carrying before him two blue Dutch 
 china pots, which he had just surreptitiously taken 
 away out of his own study. " I am going to see 
 if they won't stand upon Leech's dining-room 
 chimney-piece," he said. I followed him, hoping, 
 I am afraid, that they would not stand there, for 
 we were well used to lament the accustomed disap- 
 pearance of his pretty ornaments and china dishes. 
 People may have stared to see him carrying his 
 china, but that I do not now remember only
 
 IN KENSINGTON 99 
 
 this, that he was amused and interested, and that 
 we found the iron gates open to the court in front, 
 and the doors of the Leeches' house all wide open, 
 though the house itself was empty and the family 
 had not yet arrived. Workmen were coming and 
 going, busy hammering carpets and making ar- 
 rangements. We crossed the hall, and then my 
 father led the way into the pretty, old dining-room, 
 with its new Turkey carpet and its tall windows 
 looking to the gardens at the back. " I knew they 
 would stand there," said he, putting up the two 
 blue pots on the high narrow ledge ; and there to 
 my mind they will ever stand. 
 
 It was in the Quarterly Review that my father 
 wrote of Leech's pictures. " While we live we must 
 laugh," he says. 
 
 Do we laugh enough? Our fathers laughed bet- 
 ter than we do. Is it that we have overeaten of 
 the fruit of the tree of knowledge ? I cannot say. 
 The art of design, as practised by the successors 
 of John Leech who have followed in his steps, 
 still holds its own delightful sway ; but the kin- 
 dred arts of action, of oratory, of literature, have, 
 to some narrow-minded critics, taken most un- 
 pleasant forms of sincerity. Sometimes I wonder 
 how the moralist would write of us now, were he 
 still among us. I don't know how the present will 
 strike the new generation, when it has grown up
 
 100 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 to look back in turn upon this somewhat compli- 
 cated phase of civilization. Sheep's clothing is out 
 of date, and wolf -skins all the fashion now; but 
 they are imitation wolf-skins. The would-be Lion 
 affects the Donkey's ears ; the Pharisee is anxious 
 to be seen in the Publican's society for the good 
 impression it makes upon his constituency. It is 
 all very perplexing, and not very edifying to spec- 
 ulate on. And then I feel that any day, while one 
 is fumbling and probing and dissecting and split- 
 ting hairs, some genius such as John Leech silently 
 appears and touches commonplace things, and lo ! 
 here is a new light upon earth, a new happiness ; 
 here is another smile in the land. " Can we have 
 too much of truth and fun and beauty and kind- 
 ness?" said John Leech's Friend.
 
 TO WEIMAR AND BACK
 
 VII 
 
 I SUPPOSE the outer circuit of my own very lim- 
 ited wanderings must have been reached at the age 
 of thirteen or thereabouts, when my father took me 
 and my little sister for the grand tour of Europe. 
 We had, of course, lived in Paris, and spent our 
 summers in quiet sunny country places abroad with 
 our grandparents, but this was to be something 
 different from anything we had ever known before 
 at St. Germains or Montmorenci among the don- 
 keys. Switzerland and Venice and Vienna, Ger- 
 many and the Rhine ! Our young souls thrilled 
 with expectation. And yet those early feasts of 
 life are not unlike the miracle of the loaves and 
 fishes : the twelve basketfuls that remain in after- 
 years are certainly even more precious than the 
 feast itself. 
 
 \Ve started one sleety summer morning. My 
 father was pleased to be off and we were enchanted. 
 He had bought a gray wide-awake hat for the jour- 
 ney, and he had a ne\v sketch-book in his pocket, 
 besides t\vo smaller ones for us, which he produced 
 as the steamer was starting. We sailed from Lon-
 
 104 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 don Bridge, and the decks were all wet and slippery 
 as we came on board. We were scatter-brained 
 little girls, although we looked demure enough in 
 our mushroom hats and waterproofs. We had also 
 prepared a travelling trousseau, which consisted of 
 miscellaneous articles belonging to the fancy-goods 
 department of things in general, rather than to the 
 usual outfit of an English gentleman's family. I 
 was not without some diffidence about my luggage. 
 I remember a draught-board, a large wooden work- 
 box, a good many books, paint-boxes, and other 
 odds and ends ; but I felt that whatever else might 
 be deficient, our new bonnets would bring us tri- 
 umphantly out of every crisis. They were alike, 
 but with a difference of blue and pink wreaths of 
 acacia, and brilliant in ribbons to match, at a time 
 when people affected less dazzling colors than they 
 do now. Of course, these treasures were not for 
 the Channel and its mischances ; they were care- 
 fully packed away and guarded by the draught- 
 boards and work-boxes and the other contents of 
 our trunk ; and I may as well conclude the episode 
 at once, for it is not quite without bearing upon 
 what I am trying to recall. Alas for human ex- 
 pectations! When the happy moment came at last, 
 and we had reached foreign parts, and issued out of 
 the hotel dressed and wreathed and triumphantly 
 splendid, my father said : " My dear children, go
 
 TO WEIMAR AND BACK 105 
 
 back and put those bonnets away in your box, and 
 don't ever wear them any more ! Why, you would 
 be mobbed in these places if you walked out alone 
 with such ribbons !" How the sun shone as he 
 spoke ! how my heart sank under the acacia- trees ! 
 My sister was eleven years old, and didn't care a 
 bit ; but at thirteen and fourteen one's clothes be- 
 gin to strike root. I felt disgraced, beheaded of my 
 lovely bonnet, utterly crushed, and I turned away 
 to hide my tears. 
 
 Now, there is a passage in the life of Charles 
 Kingsley which, as I believe, concerned this very 
 time and journey; and I am amused, as I remember 
 the tragedy of my bonnet, to think of the different 
 sacrifices which men and women have to pay to 
 popular prejudice, casting their head-gear into the 
 flames just as the people did in the times of Ro- 
 mola. We had started by the packet-boat from 
 London Bridge, as I have said, and immediately we 
 came on board we had been kindly greeted by a 
 family group already established there an elderly 
 gentleman in clerical dress, and a lady sitting with 
 an umbrella in the drizzle of rain and falling smuts 
 from the funnel. This was the Kingsley family, 
 consisting of the rector of Chelsea and his wife and 
 his two sons (Charles Kingsley was the elder of the 
 two), then going abroad for his health. It will now 
 be seen that my recollections concern more histor-
 
 106 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 ical head-dresses than our unlucky bonnets asso- 
 ciations which William Tell himself might not have 
 disdained. Mr. Kingsley and his brother were wear- 
 ing brown felt hats with very high and pointed 
 crowns, and with very broad brims, of a different 
 shape from my father's commonplace felt. The 
 hats worn by Mr. Kingsley and his brother were 
 more like those well - known brims and peaks 
 which have crowned so many poets' heads since 
 then. 
 
 It was a stormy crossing ; the waves were curling 
 unpleasantly round about the boat. I sat by Mrs. 
 Kingsley, miserable, uncomfortable, and watching 
 in a dazed and hypnotized sort of way the rim of 
 Charles Kingsley 's wide-awake as it rose and fell 
 against the horrible horizon. He stood before us, 
 holding on to some ropes, and the horizon rose and 
 fell, and the steamer pitched and tossed, and it 
 seemed as if Time stood still. But we reached 
 those farther shores at last, and parted from our 
 companions, and very soon afterwards my father 
 told us with some amusement of the adventure 
 which befell Mr. Charles Kingsley and his brother 
 almost as soon as they landed, and after they had 
 parted from their parents. They were arrested by 
 the police, who did not like the shape of their wide- 
 awakes. I may as well give the story in Mr. Kings- 
 ley's own words, which I found in his Life, in an ex-
 
 TO WEIMAR AND BACK 107 
 
 tract from a letter written immediately after the 
 event to Mrs. Charles Kingsley at home. He says : 
 
 " Here we are at Treves, having been brought there un- 
 der arrest with a gendarme from the mayor of Gettesburg, 
 and liberated next morning with much laughter and many 
 curses from the police here. However, we had the pleasure 
 of spending a night in prison among fleas and felons, on 
 the bare floor. The barbarians took our fishing-tackle for 
 Todt-instrnmenten, and our wide-awakes for Italian hats, 
 and got it into their addle-pates that we were emissaries 
 of Mazzini. . . ." 
 
 Perhaps I can find some excuse for the " ad- 
 dle-pates " when I remember that proud and eager 
 head, and that bearing so full of character and en- 
 ergy. One can imagine the author of Alton Locke 
 not finding very great favor with foreign mou- 
 chards and gendarmes, and suggesting indefinite 
 terrors and suspicions to their minds. 
 
 Fortunately for the lovers of nature, unfortunate- 
 ly for autobiographers, the dates of the years as they 
 pass are not written up in big letters on the blue 
 vaults overhead, though the seasons themselves are 
 told in turn by the clouds and lights, and by every 
 waving tree and every country glade. And so, 
 though one remembers the aspect of things, the 
 years are apt to get a little shifted at times, and I 
 cannot quite tell whether it was this year or that 
 one followin"; in which we found ourselves still in
 
 I08 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 glorious summer weather returning home from dis- 
 tant places, and coming back by Germany and by 
 Weimar. 
 
 In common with most children, the stories of our 
 father's youth always delighted and fascinated us, 
 and we had often heard him speak of his own early 
 days at college and in Germany, and of his happy 
 stay at Pumpernickel-Weimar, where he went to 
 court and saw the great Goethe, and was in love 
 with the beautiful Amalia von X. And now coming 
 to Weimar we found ourselves actually alive in his 
 past somehow, almost living it alongside with him, 
 just like Gogo in Mr. Du Maurier's story. I sud- 
 denly find myself walking up the centre of an emp- 
 ty shady street, and my father is pointing to a row 
 of shutters on the first floor of a large and comfort- 
 able-looking house. " That is where Frau von X. 
 used to live," he said. " How kind she was to us, 
 and what a pretty girl Amalia was !" And then, a 
 little farther on, we passed the house in the sunshine 
 of a plaz in which he told us he himself had lodged 
 with a friend ; and then we came to the palace, with 
 the soldiers and sentries looking like toys wound up 
 from the Burlington Arcade, and going backward 
 and forward with their spikes in front of their own 
 striped boxes; and we saw the acacia-trees with 
 their cropped heads, and the iron gates ; and we 
 went across the court-yard into the palace and were
 
 TO WEIMAR AND BACK 109 
 
 shown the ball - room and the smaller saloons, and 
 we stood on the shining floors and beheld the clas- 
 sic spot where for the first and only time in all his 
 life, I believe, my father had invited the lovely Ama- 
 lia to \valtz. And then, coming away all absorbed 
 and delighted with our experiences in living back- 
 ward, my father suddenly said, " I wonder if old 
 Weissenborne is still alive? He used to teach me 
 German." And lo! as he spoke, a tall, thin old man, 
 in a broad-brimmed straw hat, with a beautiful Pom- 
 eranian poodle running before him, came stalking 
 along with a newspaper under his arm. "Good 
 gracious, that looks like yes, that is Dr. Weissen- 
 borne. He is hardly changed a bit," said my fa- 
 ther, stopping short for a moment, and then he, 
 too, stepped forward quickly with an outstretched 
 hand, and the old man in turn stopped, stared, 
 frowned. " I am Thackeray, my name is Thacke- 
 ray," said my father, eagerly and shyly as was his 
 way ; and after another stare from the doctor, sud- 
 denly came a friendly lighting up and exclaiming 
 and welcoming and hand -shaking and laughing, 
 while the pretty white dog leaped up and down, as 
 much interested as we were in the meeting. 
 
 " You have grown so gray I did not know you at 
 first," said the doctor in English. And my father 
 laughed and said he was a great deal grayer now 
 than the doctor himself ; then he introduced us to
 
 IIO CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 the old man, who shook us gravely by the finger-tips 
 with a certain austere friendliness, and once more 
 he turned again with a happy, kind, grim face to 
 my father. Yes, he had followed his career with 
 interest ; he had heard of him from this man and 
 that man ; he had read one of his books not all. 
 Why had he never sent any, why had he never come 
 back before? "You must bring your misses and 
 all come and breakfast at my lodging," said Dr. 
 Weissenborne. 
 
 " And is this your old dog?" my father asked, af- 
 ter accepting the doctor's invitation. Dr. Weissen- 
 borne shook his head. Alas ! the old dog was no 
 more ; he died two years before. Meanwhile the 
 young dog was very much there, frisking and career- 
 ing in cheerful circles round about us. The doctor 
 and his dog had just been starting for their daily 
 walk in the woods when they met us, and they 
 now invited us to accompany them. We called 
 at the lodging by the way to announce our return 
 to breakfast, and then started off together for the 
 park. The park (I am writing of years and years 
 ago) was a bright, green little wood, with leaves and 
 twigs and cheerful lights, with small trees not very 
 thickly planted on the steep slopes, with many nar- 
 row paths wandering into green depths, and with 
 seats erected at intervals along the way. On one 
 of these seats the old professor showed us an
 
 TO WEIMAR AND BACK III 
 
 inscription cut deep into the wood with a knife, 
 " Doctor W. and liis -dog." Who had carved it? He 
 did not know. But besides this inscription, on ev- 
 ery one of the benches where Goethe used to rest, 
 and on every tree which used to shade his head, 
 was written another inscription, invisible indeed, 
 and yet which we seemed to read all along the way 
 " Here Goethe's life was spent ; here he walked, 
 here he rested ; his feet have passed to and fro 
 along this narrow pathway. It leads to his garden- 
 house." 
 
 It was lovely summer weather, as I have said, that 
 weather which used to be so common when one was 
 young, and which I dare say our children still dis- 
 cover now, though we cannot always enjoy it. We 
 came back with our friend the doctor, and break- 
 fasted with him in his small apartment, in a room 
 full of books, at a tiny table drawn to an open win- 
 dow ; then after breakfast we sat in the professor's 
 garden among the nasturtiums. My sister and I 
 were given books to read ; they were translations 
 for the use of students, I remember; and the old 
 friends smoked together and talked over a hundred 
 things. Amalia was married and had several chil- 
 dren ; she was away. Madame von Goethe was still 
 in Weimar with her sons, and Fraulein von Pog- 
 wishe, her sister, was also there. " They would be 
 delighted to see you again," said the professor.
 
 112 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 " We will go together, and leave the young misses 
 here till our return." But not so ; our father de- 
 clared we also must be allowed to come. My rec- 
 ollections (according to the wont of such provoking 
 things) here begin to fail me, and in the one partic- 
 ular which is of any interest ; for though we vis- 
 ited Goethe's old house, I can scarcely remember 
 it at all, only that the doctor said Madame von 
 Goethe had moved after Goethe's death. She lived 
 in a handsome house in the town, with a fine stair- 
 case running up between straight walls, and lead- 
 ing into a sort of open hall, where, amid a good 
 deal of marble and stateliness, stood two little un- 
 pretending ladies by a big round table piled with 
 many books and papers. The ladies were Madame 
 von Goethe and her sister. Dr. Weissenborne went 
 first and announced an old friend, and then ensued 
 more welcomings and friendly exclamations and 
 quick recognitions on both sides, benevolently su- 
 perintended by our Virgil. "And are you both as 
 fond of reading novels as ever?" my father asked. 
 The ladies laughed ; they said " Yes, indeed," and 
 pointed to a boxful of books which had just arrived, 
 with several English novels among them, which they 
 had been unpacking as we came in. Then the sons 
 of the house were sent for kind and friendly and 
 unassuming young men, walking in, and as much 
 interested and pleased to witness their parent's
 
 TO WEIMAR AND BACK 113 
 
 pleasure as we were ; not handsome, with nothing 
 of their grandfather's noble aspect (as one sees it 
 depicted), but with most charming and courteous 
 ways. One was a painter, the mother told us, the 
 other a musician. And while my father talked to 
 the elder ladies, the young men took us younger 
 ones in hand. They offered to show us the cele- 
 brated garden-house, and asked us to drink tea there 
 next day. And so it happened that once more we 
 found ourselves being conducted through the little 
 shady wood. But to be walking there with Goethe's 
 family, with his grandsons and their mother, the 
 Ottilie who had held the dying poet's hand to the 
 last ; to be going to his favorite resort where so 
 much of his time was spent ; to hear him so fa- 
 miliarly quoted and spoken of, was something like 
 hearing a distant echo of the great voice itself ; 
 something like seeing the skirts of his dressing-gown 
 just waving before us. And at the age I was then 
 impressions are so vivid that I have always all my 
 life had a vague feeling of having been in Goethe's 
 presence. We seemed to find something of it every- 
 where, most of all in the little garden-house, in the 
 bare and simple room where he used to write. One 
 of the kind young men went to the window and 
 showed us something on the pane. What it was 
 I know not clearly, but I think it was his name 
 written with a diamond ; and finally, in the garden,
 
 114 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 at a wooden table, among trees and dancing shad- 
 ows, we drank our tea, and I remember Wolfgang 
 von Goethe handing a teacup, and the look of it, 
 and suddenly the whole thing vanishes. . . . There 
 was a certain simple dignity and hospitality in it all 
 which seems to belong to all the traditions of hos- 
 pitable Weimar, and my father's pleasure and hap- 
 py emotion gave a value and importance to every 
 tiny detail of that short but happy time. Even the 
 people at the inn remembered him, and came out 
 to greet him ; but they sent in such an enormous 
 bill as we were departing on the evening of the 
 second day that he exclaimed in dismay to the 
 waiter, " So much for sentimental recollections ! 
 Tell the host I shall never be able to afford to 
 come back to Weimar again." 
 
 The waiter stared ; I wonder if he delivered the 
 message. The hotel - bill I have just mentioned 
 was a real disappointment to my father, and, alas 
 for disillusions ! another more serious shock, a meet- 
 ing which was no meeting, somewhat dashed the 
 remembrance of Amalia von X. 
 
 It happened at Venice, a year or two after our 
 visit to Weimar. We were breakfasting at a long 
 table where a fat lady also sat a little way off, with 
 a pale fat little boy beside her. She was stout; she 
 was dressed in light green ; she was silent ; she was 
 eating an egg. The sala of the great marble hotel
 
 TO WEIMAR AND BACK 115 
 
 was shaded from the blaze of sunshine, but stray 
 gleams shot across the dim hall, falling on the 
 palms and the orange-trees beyond the lady, who 
 gravely shifted her place as the sunlight dazzled 
 her. Our own meal was also spread, and my sister 
 and I were only waiting for my father to begin. 
 He came in presently, saying he had been looking 
 at the guest -book in the outer hall, and he had 
 seen a name which had interested him very much. 
 " Frau von Z. Geboren von X. It must be Amalia ! 
 She must be Iicre in the hotel," he said ; and as 
 he spoke he asked a waiter whether Madame von 
 Z. was still in the hotel. " I believe that is Madame 
 von Z.," said the waiter, pointing to the fat lady. 
 The lady looked up and then went on with her 
 egg, and my poor father turned away, saying in a 
 low, overwhelmed voice, " That Amalia ! That can- 
 not be Amalia." I could not understand his silence, 
 his discomposure. " Aren't you going to speak to 
 her? Oh, please do go and speak to her !" we both 
 cried. " Do make sure if it is Amalia." But he 
 shook his head. " I can't," he said ; " I had rather 
 not." Amalia meanwhile, having finished her egg, 
 rose deliberately, put down her napkin and walked 
 away, followed by her little boy. 
 
 Things don't happen altogether at the same time ; 
 they don't quite begin or end all at once. Once 
 more I heard of Amalia long years afterwards,
 
 Il6 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 when by a happy hospitable chance I met Dr. 
 Norman MacLeod at the house of my old friends, 
 Mr. and Mrs. Cunliffe. I was looking at him, and 
 thinking that in some indefinable way he put me 
 in mind of the past, when he suddenly asked me if 
 I knew that he and my father had been together 
 as boys at Weimar, learning German from the same 
 professor, and both in love with the same beautiful 
 girl. " What, Amalia? Dr. Weissenborne?" I cried. 
 " Dear me! do you know about Amalia?" said Dr. 
 MacLeod, " and do you know about old Weissen- 
 borne ? I thought I was the only person left to 
 remember them. We all learned from Weissen- 
 borne, we were all in love with Amalia, every one 
 of us, your father too ! What happy days those 
 were !" And then he went on to tell us that years 
 and years afterwards, when they met again on the 
 occasion of one of the lecturing tours in Scotland, 
 he, Dr. MacLeod, and the rest of the notabilities 
 were all assembled to receive the lecturer on the 
 platform, and as my father came by carrying his' 
 papers and advancing to take his place at the 
 reading-desk, he recognized Dr. MacLeod as he 
 passed, and in the face of all the audience he bent 
 forward and said, gravely, without stopping one 
 moment on his way, " Ich licbc Amalia docJi" and 
 so went on to deliver his lecture. 
 
 Dr. MacLeod also met Amalia once again in
 
 TO WEIMAR AND BACK 117 
 
 after-life, and to him, too, had come a disillusion. 
 He, too, had been overwhelmed and shocked by 
 the change of years. Poor lady ! I can't help be- 
 ing very sorry for her ; to have had two such 
 friends and not to have kept them seems a cruel 
 fate. To have been so charming, that her present 
 seemed but a calumny upon the past. It is like 
 the story of the woman who flew into a fury with 
 her own portrait, young, smiling, and triumphant, 
 and who destroyed it, so as not to be taunted by 
 the past any more. Let us hope that Frau von Z. 
 was never conscious of her loss, never looked upon 
 this picture and on that. 
 
 Since writing all this, I have found an old letter 
 from my father to his mother, and written from 
 Weimar. It is dated 2Qth September, 1830. "There 
 is a capital library here," he says, "which is open to 
 me, an excellent theatre which costs a shilling a 
 night, and a charming petite socicte which costs 
 nothing. Goethe, the great lion of Weimar, I have 
 not yet seen, but his daughter-in-law has promised 
 to introduce me." Then he describes going to 
 court : " I have had to air my legs in black breech- 
 es and to sport a black coat, black waistcoat, and 
 cock-hat, looking something like a cross between a 
 footman and a Methodist parson. 
 
 " We have had three operas," he goes on; " 'Me-
 
 Il8 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 dea ' and the ' Barber of Seville ' and the ' Flauto 
 Magico.' Hummel conducts the orchestra [then 
 comes a sketch of Hummel with huge shirt-collar]. 
 The orchestra is excellent, but the singers are not 
 first-rate." . . . Amalia must have had rivals, even 
 in those early days, for this same letter goes on 
 to say : " I have fallen in love with the Princess of 
 Weimar, who is unluckily married to Prince Charles 
 of Prussia. I must get over this unfortunate pas- 
 sion, which will otherwise, I fear, bring me to an 
 untimely end. There are several very charming 
 young persons of the female sex here ; Miss Amalia 
 von X. and ditto von Pappenheim are the evening 
 belles." 
 
 " Of winter nights," says my father in the other 
 well-known letter which is printed in Lewes's Life 
 of Goethe, "we used to charter sedan-chairs in 
 which we were carried through the snow to those 
 pleasant court entertainments. I for my part was 
 fortunate enough to purchase Schiller's sword, 
 which formed a part of my court costume and still 
 hangs in my study,* and puts me in mind of days 
 of youth the most kindly and delightful." 
 
 * So he wrote in 1855, but a few years after he gave the sword to 
 a friend for whom he had a great affection, who carried it back to 
 America as a token of good-will and sympathy. This friend was 
 Hayard Taylor, a true knight, and worthy to carry the honorable 
 bloodless weapon.
 
 VIA WILLIS'S ROOMS TO CHELSEA
 
 VIII 
 
 ONE day Jackson drove the blue fly up to the 
 door, and my father, looking rather smart, with a 
 packet of papers in his hand, and my grandmother, 
 who had come over from Paris, and my sister and 
 I all got in, and we drove away, a nervous com- 
 pany, to Willis's Rooms to hear the first of the 
 lectures upon the English Humorists. My father 
 was of course very nervous, but as we drove along 
 he made little jokes to reassure us all ; then to- 
 gether we mounted the carpeted staircase leading 
 to the long, empty room, and after a time he left 
 us. I have no very pleasant recollection of that 
 particular half -hour of my life. I remember the 
 unoccupied chairs, and people coming in rather 
 subdued, as if into a church. Many of the win- 
 dows were open, the sky looked very blue over the 
 roof-tops, our hearts were thumping, the carriages 
 outside came driving up with distant rumbling 
 sounds growing louder and louder ; and I remem- 
 ber wondering at the time whether I should mind 
 very much if the day of judgment could suddenly 
 come upon us and thus put an end to this terrible
 
 122 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 ordeal, which desperate imagination was a real con- 
 solation to me at the moment. It is a happiness 
 to realize now who it was who came to my dear 
 father's help when all our emotion and sympathy 
 was, I fear, only a hinderance. I cannot help giv- 
 ing the passage out of Mrs. Kemble's records con- 
 cerning my father's lectures, although it may have 
 already been quoted by others. 
 
 " I met Thackeray at Miss Perry's at dinner, a few days 
 before he began his course of lectures on the English Hu- 
 morists, and he asked me to come and hear him, and told 
 me he was so nervous about it that he was afraid he should 
 break down. . . . 
 
 " He was to lecture at Willis's Rooms, in the same room 
 where I read ; and going thither before the time for his be- 
 ginning I found him standing like a forlorn, disconsolate 
 giant in the middle of the room, gazing about him. 'O 
 Lord !' he exclaimed, as he shook hands with me, ' I'm sick 
 at my stomach with fright !' I spoke some words of en- 
 couragement to him and was going away, but he held my 
 hand like a scared child, crying, ' Oh, don't leave me !' 
 ' But,' said I, ' Thackeray, you mustn't stand here. Your 
 audience are beginning to come in ' ; and I drew him from 
 the middle of the chairs and benches, which were begin- 
 ning to be occupied, into the retiring-room adjoining the 
 lecture-room, my own reading having made me perfectly 
 familiar with both. 'Oh,' he said, ' if I could only get at 
 that confounded thing [his lecture], to have a last look at 
 it !' 'Where is it?' said I. 'Oh, in the next room on the 
 reading-desk.' 'Well,' said I, 'if you don't like to go in
 
 VIA WILLIS'S ROOMS TO CHELSEA 123 
 
 and get it, I'll fetch it for you.' And remembering well 
 the position of my reading-table, which had been close to 
 the door of the retiring-room, I darted in, hoping to snatch 
 the manuscript without attracting the attention of the au- 
 dience, with which the room was already nearly full. I had 
 been used to deliver my readings seated at a very low ta- 
 ble, but my friend Thackeray gave his lectures standing, 
 and had had a reading-desk placed on the platform, adapt- 
 ed to his own very tall stature, so that when I came to 
 get his manuscript it was almost above my head. Though 
 rather disconcerted, I was determined not to go back with- 
 out it, and so made a half-jump and a clutch at the book, 
 when every leaf of it (they were not fastened together) 
 came fluttering separately down about me. I hardly know 
 what I did, but I think I must have gone nearly on all-fours 
 in my agony to gather up the scattered leaves, and retreat- 
 ing with them, held them out in dismay to poor Thack- 
 eray, crying, ' Oh, look, look what a dreadful thing I have 
 done!' ' My dear soul,' said he, 'you couldn't have done 
 better for me. I have just a quarter of an hour to wait 
 here, and it will take me about that to page this again, and 
 it's the best thing in the world that could have happened."' 
 
 And so while my father was paging the manu- 
 script, and we were waiting outside, the people 
 kept coming in more and more quickly and filling 
 up the places in front of us, behind us, all round 
 us, settling down, unfastening their wraps, nodding 
 to each other. I was gazing at a lady who had 
 taken off her bonnet and sat in a little Quaker cap 
 just in front of me, when suddenly, there stood my
 
 124 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 father facing this great roomful. Though we had 
 been waiting all the time, he came sooner than we 
 expected. His voice sounded strained and odd for 
 an instant, and I didn't recognize it. " In treating 
 of the English humorists of the eighteenth century, 
 it is of the men rather than of their works," so the 
 strange voice began, and then almost immediately 
 it softened and deepened and became his own, and 
 at the same time as he stood there I realized that 
 he looked just like himself : there was his waist- 
 coat and his watch-chain, and my vague youthful 
 spinnings and chokings and confusions began to 
 subside. 
 
 I was now glad the day of judgment hadn't come. 
 I don't remember taking in one word after the first 
 sentence, but sat staring and taking breath, and 
 realizing somehow that all was going well. Among 
 other things I did notice, and do remember, the 
 proud and happy look of light and relief in my 
 grandmother's face, and her beautiful gray eyes all 
 shining, when the people applauded, and the lect- 
 ure was all over just as unexpectedly as it had 
 begun, and the lady in the Quaker cap tied her 
 bonnet on again, and somebody said she was the 
 Duchess of Sutherland, and the people were all 
 talking and crowding up and shaking hands with 
 the lecturer. Then came the happy drive home ; 
 Jackson made the horse gallop, and my father
 
 VIA WILLIS'S ROOMS TO CHELSEA 125 
 
 laughed and made real jokes without any effort, 
 and we laughed and enjoyed every jolt and turn- 
 ing on the way home this time. 
 
 These lectures gradually became a part of our ev- 
 ery-day life, just as much as the books and the arti- 
 cles my father used to write, and the little printers' 
 boys waiting and swinging their legs in the hall. 
 Young men's institutes and provincial agencies 
 used to invite him to the north and to the south. 
 He came and he went ; sometimes he read in the 
 suburbs or at friends' houses, at Mrs. Procter's and 
 elsewhere ; once he read at home, at the request, I 
 think, of his well-loved Mrs. Elliot and Miss Perry. 
 Sometimes he took us with him when he was not 
 going very far from home. To this day I can en- 
 joy that glorious summer's day we first spent at 
 Oxford among the gardens and the gables, and 
 where, with our host St. John Thackeray, AVC stood 
 in the street outside watching the backs of the au- 
 dience pressing in to hear the lecture. 
 
 One year my father told us that he was going 
 away he was going to America to give his lect- 
 ures there ; he was going as soon as he had fin- 
 ished the book upon which he was engaged, and 
 we were to spend the winter in Paris during his 
 absence. " I must replace my patrimony," he said, 
 "and make some provision for your mother and for 
 you, and you must go to my mother's and spend
 
 126 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 the winter with her ; you must work as hard as 
 you can while I am away, and consider yourselves 
 at college in a fashion, and learn French and a lit- 
 tle music to play me to sleep of an evening when 
 I come home." Alas! we neither of us could ever 
 make enough music to send him to sleep, though 
 I have often sent him out of the room. My hair 
 used to stand on end, my fingers used to turn to 
 stone when I tried to play to him ; even the things 
 I liked best seemed to go off the rails in some gen- 
 eral catastrophe. 
 
 America was farther away then than it is now, 
 when a thousand Columbuses or Columbi (what- 
 ever the plural may be) cross the ocean week by 
 week with a parting nod and a return ticket. That 
 whole summer of 1854 seemed darkened by the 
 coming separation. It was a long and burning 
 summer ; even the shadows seemed burned up, and 
 so were the gardens at the back of the houses, and 
 the brown turf and the avenues of Kensington Gar- 
 dens, those gardens where that strange mist which 
 is not quite fog nor quite real nor even a fancy, 
 but which has always seemed to me to be the very 
 spirit of London itself, comes rising along the 
 straight and formal distances. My father was hard 
 at work finishing a book which some people still 
 say is the best of all his books. People read it 
 then, when it came out, and read it still and re-
 
 VIA WILLIS S ROOMS TO CHELSEA 127 
 
 read it. He used to write in his study with the 
 vine shading the two windows, and we used to do 
 our lessons, or sit sewing and reading in the front 
 room with the bow-window to the street ; and one 
 day, as we were there with our governess, my fa- 
 ther came in in great excitement. " There's a 
 young fellow just come," said he ; " he has brought 
 a thousand pounds in his pocket ; he has made me 
 an offer for my book ; it's the most spirited, hand- 
 some offer ; I scarcely like to take him at his word ; 
 he's hardly more than a boy ; his name is George 
 Smith ; he is waiting there now, and I must go 
 
 o o 
 
 back ;" and then, after walking once up and down 
 the room, my father went away, and for the first 
 time, a lifetime ago, I heard the name of this good 
 friend-to-be. 
 
 A great many arrangements were made for the 
 coming year's absence ; there was a talk of letting 
 the house, but it was only shut up with a couple 
 of old servants to keep it. My father's servants 
 rarely left him. His old publishers gave him a sil- 
 ver punch-bowl, and his new publisher (I am writ- 
 ing of nearly half a century ago) gave him a beau- 
 tiful despatch-box ; and this same good friend gave 
 to my sister and to me a noble drawing of our fa- 
 ther's head, by Samuel Lawrence, to look at while 
 he was away. Then we all set off and went abroad 
 to rejoin our grandmother and grandfather, and for
 
 128 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 a little while we travelled together, and then my 
 father had to leave us. I can see him now as he 
 stood beside a wooden column at some railway 
 junction Olten, I think it was and he stooped to 
 kiss us ; and then he put us into our railway car- 
 riage, and we were carried off with heavy hearts 
 while he stood looking at us fixedly, tall and 
 straight, and the train scudded off. Somehow we 
 never got used to these partings, though our father 
 returned each time safe and in good spirits, and 
 pleased with his journey and its results. 
 
 People can still walk through Kensington Square 
 and look up at the house, yet standing with its win- 
 dows facing westward, in which Rachel Castlewood 
 once dwelt, and where Colonel Esmond came, and 
 where the Pretender also came in his blond peri- 
 wig and blue ribbon, and threw away so Colonel 
 Esmond tells us a kingdom for a passing fancy. 
 In so looking they may well people the past with 
 figures all touched with its color, and yet so strange- 
 ly living still that as one reads one seems to have 
 known them all. But any one who may try to fol- 
 low the familiar shades out of the precincts of Ken- 
 sington Square and beyond Young Street, where 
 the porters with the chairs must have passed, into 
 the high-road which leads to London, must be im- 
 aginative indeed to conjure up their remembrance 
 any more. The King's Arms, where the conspira-
 
 VIA WILLIS'S ROOMS TO CHELSEA 129 
 
 tors were assembled when King George was pro- 
 claimed, has vanished out of sight ; its quiet gar- 
 dens are piled up high with bricks and stories rear- 
 ing like a new Babel to the sky. There are cities 
 spreading where the market-gardens were flowering 
 but yesterday, tram-cars passing, engines whistling. 
 I can scarcely imagine my father himself writing 
 Esmond in such a chaos. Novels of the future will 
 take place by telegram, in flats, in lifts, in metro- 
 politan railways they will whirl, Ixion-like, on per- 
 petual bicycles and wheels. It is difficult to imag- 
 ine devotion such as Esmond's continuing in this 
 present sequence of events; it seems as if new im- 
 pulses, both physical and mental, must arise in such 
 a multiplicity of impressions ; as if a new race must 
 people the earth. Beatrice, indeed, might belong to 
 these latter times ; but Esmond and Lady Castle- 
 wood would seem strangely out of place. * 
 
 * Some one has given me a map of Kensington in 1764, by which 
 one can see what lanes and green fields and gardens still lay be- 
 tween the village and London, more than a mile away. Nursery 
 gardens, wide open spaces, brick kilns on Campclen Hill, and gravel 
 pits. In the midst of green fields stood three or four houses called 
 " Bays Watering." The Serpentine was called the New River, 
 Kensington Gore consisted of rive houses. Ilogmore Lane and 
 Lobb's Field ran from the high-road towards Chelsea. Though I 
 have the map before me, I can hardly feel that it was ever true, and 
 yet I remember Hogmore Lane. And there was Love Lane beyond, 
 along which \ve used to go for straggling walks with our playfellows 
 the Coles, who lived in the Terrace close by. We used to start about 
 six o'clock on summer mornings, and come home with branches of 
 hawthorn flowers to decorate our school-room and to remind our- 
 selves that it was May-time. 
 9
 
 130 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 There is one part of London which, however, still 
 seems to me little changed since then, and that is 
 Cheyne Row, which used to be at the end of all these 
 hawthorn lanes, by the onward course of fashion 
 and events ; and that is Chelsea, whither we used 
 often to be sent as children, crossing the lanes and 
 fields, and coming by a pond and a narrow street 
 called Paradise Row into the King's Road, and 
 then after a few minutes' walk to Cheyne Row, 
 where Mr. and Mrs. Carlyle lived to the end of 
 their lives, and which seems to all of us made living 
 still by their dead footsteps. 
 
 The old house in Cheyne Row is one of the first 
 things I can remember when we came to London. 
 Its stillness, its dimness, its panelled walls, its carved 
 balusters, ancl the quiet garden behind, where at 
 intervals in the brickwork lay the tobacco-pipes all 
 ready for use ; little Nero, the doggie, in his little 
 coat, barking and trembling in every limb it all 
 comes before one with so much clearness that, al- 
 though so much has been said about that home, I 
 cannot omit all mention of a place which made so 
 vivid a part of my early life. 
 
 In the dining-room stood that enchanting screen 
 covered with pictures, drawings, prints, fashions, 
 portraits without end, which my father liked so 
 much; up-stairs was the panelled drawing-room 
 with its windows to the Row, and the portrait of
 
 VIA WILLIS'S ROOMS TO CHELSEA 131 
 
 Oliver Cromwell hanging opposite the windows. 
 But best of all, there was Mrs. Carlyle herself, a 
 living picture ; Gainsborough should have been 
 alive to paint her: slim, bright, upright, in her 
 place. She looked like one of the grand ladies our 
 father used sometimes to take us to call upon. She 
 used to be handsomely dressed in velvet and point 
 lace. She sat there at leisure and prepared for con- 
 versation. She was not familiar, but cordial, digni- 
 fied, interested in everything as she sat installed in 
 her corner of the sofa by one of the little tables cov- 
 ered with knick-knacks of silver and mother-of-pearl. 
 
 Almost the first time we ever went to see her 
 we had walked to Chelsea through the snow, and 
 across those lanes which have now become South 
 Kensington, and when we arrived, numb and chilled 
 and tired, we found in the dining-room below, stand- 
 ing before the fire, two delicious hot cups of choco- 
 late already prepared for us, with saucers placed 
 upon the top. " I thought ye would be frozen," said 
 she, and the hot chocolate became a sort of institu- 
 tion. Again and again she has sat by, benevolent 
 and spirited, superintending our wintry feasts, in- 
 viting our confidences, confiding in us to a certain 
 degree. 
 
 She used to tell us many of the stories which 
 have since come into print. She was never weary 
 of discoursing of "Carlyle," of his genius, his dys-
 
 132 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 pepsia, of quoting his sayings. "If you wish for a 
 quiet life," she used to say, " never you marry a 
 dyspeptic man of genius." I remember she used 
 to tell us, when he first grew a beard, how all the 
 time he had saved by ceasing to shave he spent 
 wandering about the house, and bemoaning that 
 which was amiss in the universe. As children we 
 did not have much of Carlyle's company; if he 
 came in and sat down in the arm-chair, which was 
 his on the opposite side to the sofa, we immediately 
 went away ; but the sense of his presence overhead 
 in the study distinctly added to our enjoyment so 
 long as he remained up-stairs. Mrs. Carlyle used 
 to tell us of her early life, of her love for study. 
 Many of her admonitions and friendly warnings 
 have remained in my memory. Once, looking ex- 
 pressively at me with her dark eyes, she began to 
 speak of self-control. " We have all," she said, " a 
 great deal more power over our minds than it is at 
 all the fashion to allow, and an infinity of resource 
 and ability to use it. There was a time in my own 
 life," she said, " when I felt that unless I strove 
 against the feeling with all my strength and might 
 I should be crazed outright. I passed through that 
 time safely; I was able to fight it out, and not to 
 let myself go. People can help themselves, that I 
 am convinced of, and that fact is not nearly enough 
 dwelt upon."
 
 VIA WILLIS S ROOMS TO CHELSEA 133 
 
 One day we went there; we were no longer chil- 
 dren. I was a grown young lady, keeping a diary 
 at the time, in which I find the following record of 
 a brown-paper parcel : " To Mrs. Carlyle's, where 
 we found Lady Stanley of Alderley just leaving the 
 room; then Mrs. Carlyle, taking up the talk again, 
 immediately began speaking enthusiastically about 
 Adam Bedc, which had just come out. She had 
 written to the author, she said ; she had received 
 grateful messages from her in reply. She said that 
 Mr. Carlyle quite declined reading the book, and 
 when she expressed a hope that it might be sent to 
 her, ' What should she send it to you for ?' he said. 
 'Why shouldn't she send it?' she answered; 'she 
 sent me the first.' ' You are just like all weemen,' 
 said he. (Mrs. Carlyle always says weemen.) 'You 
 are always forming unreasonable expectations.' " 
 
 We were going away, for we heard a ring at the 
 bell, which seemed to betoken fresh visitors. Then 
 the door opened, and in came, not visitors, but 
 Charly the maid, carrying an unmistakable pub- 
 lisher's brown-paper parcel. Mr. Carlyle, who had 
 followed her in, came and sat down upon the sofa. 
 Mrs. Carlyle exclaimed and started forward. We 
 opened our eyes in delighted partisanship ; the string 
 was cut, and there, sure enough, were the three 
 orange volumes of Adam Bede, sent with the au- 
 thor's compliments.
 
 134 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS, 
 
 Here are two notes addressed to my father in the 
 philosopher's handsome cramped handwriting : 
 
 "Chelsea, 24th May, 1860. 
 
 " Alas, dear Thackeray, I durst as soon undertake to dance 
 a hornpipe on the top of Bond Steeple as to eat a white- 
 bait dinner in my present low and lost state ! Never in my 
 life was I at such a pass. You are a good brother man ; 
 and I am grateful. Pray for me, and still hope for me if 
 
 you can. 
 
 " Yours ever, 
 
 "T. CARLYLE." 
 "Chelsea, 26th May, 1860. 
 
 " DEAR THACKERAY, The thing I contemplated just now 
 (or the nucleus of the thing) was a letter concerning that 
 anecdote about Fontenoy, ' Faites feu, j\fessiciirs,' on the 
 part of the English, with answer from the Gardes Fran- 
 Daises, 'Begin you, gentlemen; wouldn't do such a thing 
 for the world !' My letter is from Lord Charles Hay, Cap- 
 tain of the Scots Fusiliers, main actor in the business; it 
 was sent me last year by Lord Gifford ; and I could have 
 made a little story out of it which would have been worth 
 publishing. 
 
 " But on applying to Lord Gifford, he (what he is himself, 
 I believe, truly sorry for) cannot at present give me per- 
 mission. So the poor little enterprise falls to nothing 
 again ; and I may be said to be in a state of ill-luck just 
 now ! 
 
 " If I ever in the end of this book have life left, you shall 
 have plenty of things. But for the time being I can only 
 answer de proftindis to the above effect. 
 
 " Fair wind and full sea to vou in this hitherto so success-
 
 VIA WILLIS S ROOMS TO CHELSEA 135 
 
 ful voyage, for which the omens certainly are on all sides 
 good. Your people do not send me a copy (since No. I.) ; 
 but we always draw our purse upon it to the small extent 
 
 requisite. 
 
 " Yours ever truly, 
 
 "T. CARLYLE." 
 
 These notes were written when the CornJiill was 
 first started, an eventful time in our lives. 
 
 Some voices are those which speak to us; others 
 speak for us. The first belong to the immortals 
 who dwell apart somewhere beyond the boundaries 
 of common life and moods, and it is, perhaps, for 
 that very reason they are best able to give utter- 
 ance to oracles ; the others belong to humanity 
 itself, and among these latter voices, who would 
 not reckon Carlyle's ? 
 
 " I wish you could get Carlyle's miscellaneous 
 criticisms," wrote my father in 1839, m a letter to 
 his mother. " I have read a little in the book. A 
 nobler one does not live in our language, I am sure, 
 and one that will have such an effect on our ways 
 of thought and prejudices. Criticism has been a 
 party matter with us till now, and literature is a 
 poor political lacquey. Please God we shall begin, 
 ere long, to love art for art's sake. It is Carlyle 
 who has worked more than any other to give it its 
 independence." 
 
 I went out with my father one evening in the
 
 136 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 winter of 1863, and as we were driving along in the 
 dusk by the Serpentine we passed Carlyle walking 
 across the park, and my father, seeing him, leaned 
 forward and waved his hands. " A great, benevo- 
 lent shower of salutations," Carlyle called it, when 
 he spoke in after-days of this last meeting. 
 
 After Mrs. Carlyle's death, it was Carlyle that we 
 used to go and see in the old drawing-room, which 
 he took to inhabiting altogether. It was no sur- 
 prise, when his history was told, to realize that he 
 had been sometimes cross and often contrary ; but 
 that passion of tender love and remorse and devo- 
 tion came as a revelation all the more moving that 
 one had almost guessed it at times. It was when 
 my own father died that something was revealed to 
 us of his deep and tender feeling. 
 
 After Carlyle himself was laid to rest I went for 
 the last time to look at the house which I remem- 
 bered all my life ; my little boy was with me, and 
 he began crowing and pointing to the old screen 
 full of pictures, some of which his grandfather had 
 drawn. It still stood in its place in the dining-room. 
 From behind the old screen came Mrs. Alexander 
 Carlyle, carrying her little Tom, who, seeing a fel- 
 low-baby, uttered three deep notes, and in them 
 was some strange echo of the familiar voice that 
 had filled the house so long, and reached how far 
 beyond its walls !
 
 VIA WILLIS S ROOMS TO CHELSEA 137 
 
 P.S. It will be remembered in Lewes's Life of 
 GoctJic there is an account of a birthday gift sent by 
 fifteen Englishmen to Goethe. " The young Car- 
 lyle, who had been cheered through his struggling 
 sadness and strengthened for the part he was to 
 play in life by the beauty and the wisdom which 
 Goethe had revealed to him, conceived the idea 
 that it would be a pleasant and a fitting thing if 
 some of the few admirers of Goethe in England 
 forwarded to Weimar a trifling token of their ad- 
 miration. On reaching home Mrs. Carlyle at once 
 sketched the design of a seal to be engraved, the 
 Serpent of Eternity encircling a star, with the 
 words. ' Ohne Rast, ohne Hast " (Unhasting, un- 
 resting), in allusion to the well-known verses, 
 
 " ' Like a star unliasting, unresting be each one fulfilling his God- 
 given hest.' " 
 
 It was the remembrance of this little incident 
 which suggested long years afterwards another 
 small presentation at a time when Carlyle was liv- 
 ing in Cheyne Row with his niece. There had been 
 some alarm of house-breakers in Chelsea, which sac- 
 rilegious house-breakers, not content with robbing 
 ordinary people, broke into Mr. Carlyle's house and 
 ran away again without carrying off anything more 
 valuable than a dining-room clock. It was, as I 
 say, the remembrance of the little incident of the
 
 138 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 seal which suggested to some one the idea of re- 
 placing the stolen clock, and about fifteen of Car- 
 lyle's friends and admirers subscribed to purchase 
 one, a small sign of their respect and good -will. 
 Among the subscribers were his old friends Lady 
 Stanley of Alderley, Lady Airlie, Mrs. Oliphant, 
 and Mr. Lecky. Lady Stanley was asked to be 
 spokeswoman on the occasion, and to present the 
 little gift. It was Carlyle's birthday, and a dismal 
 winter's day;* the streets were shrouded in greenish 
 vapors, and the houses looked no less dreary with- 
 in than the streets through which we had come. 
 Somewhat chilled and depressed, we all assembled 
 in Lady Stanley's great drawing-room in Dover 
 Street, where the fog had also penetrated, and pres- 
 ently from the farther end of the room, advancing 
 through the darkness, came Carlyle. There was a 
 moment's pause. No one moved. He stood in the 
 middle of the room without speaking. No doubt 
 the philosopher as well as his disciples felt the in- 
 fluence of the atmosphere. Lady Stanley went to 
 meet him. " Here is a little birthday present we 
 want you to accept from us all, Mr. Carlyle," said 
 she, quickly pushing up before him a small table 
 upon which stood the clock ticking all ready for his 
 acceptance. Then came another silence, broken by a 
 knell, sadly sounding in our ears. " Eh, what have I 
 
 * 4th December, 1794.
 
 flA WILLIS S ROOMS TO CHELSEA 139 
 
 got to do with Time any more," he said. It was a 
 melancholy moment. Nobody could speak. The 
 unfortunate promoter of the scheme felt her heart 
 sinking into her shoes. Had she but had the wit 
 to answer him cheerfully, to assure him that any- 
 how Time had a great deal to do with him, the lit- 
 tle ceremony might have been less of a fiasco than 
 it assuredly was ; and yet I think afterwards the old 
 man must have been pleased, and liked to think he 
 was remembered. Few people could value sincer- 
 ity as he did, or better know the worth of love and 
 affectionate respect.
 
 IN V1LLEGGIATURA
 
 IX 
 
 I HAVE already mentioned my father's tour in 
 America when he went to deliver those lectures 
 which had been so successful in England. Saying 
 good-bye is the price one has to pay even for a 
 prosperous and fortunate expedition. I can still 
 see him as he stood on the platform of the raihvay 
 station at Olten, in Belgium, where we parted. He 
 stood by a slender iron column, looking very tall 
 and very sad as he watched the train go off in 
 which we were bound for Switzerland with our 
 grandparents. He himself was returning to Eng- 
 land through Germany. He had to correct the 
 proofs of Esmond before he left, and to give some 
 more lectures in the provinces, and to wind up 
 things at home. 
 
 My grandmother was very miserable and nervous. 
 She had brought him a life-belt for his cabin as a 
 farewell gift, and thoroughly frightened herself by 
 so doing. \Ve were too young to be nervous, but 
 we were very unhappy. Our dear old grandfather 
 did his best to cheer us all, and after we had parted 
 from my father he made out all sorts of pleasant
 
 144 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 little plans, and ordered various special compotes 
 and tartlets at the hotels suited to our youthful ap- 
 petites. He took us for walks and to visit muse- 
 ums, and he always consulted any fellow-travellers 
 and sight-seers as to our next movements. Indeed, 
 our journeyings greatly depended upon these chance 
 encounters and recommendations. The first night, 
 when we put up at some little inn, the waiter 
 brought us the traveller's book to write our names 
 in ; I forget all about the place, but I can see the 
 book and the table -spread, and what I do most 
 vividly remember is our despair when, instead of 
 the neat Mr. Thackeray and family, to which we 
 were used, we read the following announcement in 
 our grandfather's handwriting: " Sclimid Major, en 
 retraitc, avcc Madame sa c'pouse et scs deux Made- 
 moiselles." My grandmother, sad as she was, began 
 to laugh, and we all entreated our dear old major 
 to make some changes in the inscription, but he 
 stuck to it, and would not alter a single letter. 
 
 We reached Geneva after some days. There at 
 the postc rcstantc we found various letters waiting, 
 and news of our father. "As for the arrival at this 
 place [he was writing from Salzburg], it's like enter- 
 ing into fairyland, it is so beautiful; and the Tyrol 
 is delightful too, but not like our Switzerland. 
 And one Swiss cottage is uncommonly like another, 
 and with five or six days of rocks and pinewoods I
 
 IN VILLEGGIATURA 145 
 
 feel somehow as if I've had enough !" Then a little 
 further on he writes: " Give my love to my dearest 
 mother, and have her to understand that this blue 
 devil of which I complain is only an artistic blue 
 devil, and that he comes always before I get to 
 work, and that there is no other reason. . . . There 
 is bad music here, for a wonder, at the beer garden ; 
 though I amused myself very well there yesterday, 
 opposite a pretty little child of three years, who 
 ate three sausages with her fingers and without any 
 bread, all except a little bit which she gave out of 
 her mouth to her mamma. And I went up a hill to 
 a Capuchin convent and saw some of my favorite 
 dirty scoundrels with beards, and the town clinks 
 all over with Austrian sabres." 
 
 I never think of^ Geneva and of those particular 
 days without a curious feeling of terror and emo- 
 tion. We were in a tall hotel, with windows looking 
 towards the lake, and it was lovely summer weather, 
 but it was a dismal time. My dear grandmother 
 sought for sympathy among the people to whom she 
 was naturally drawn, the masters and teachers be- 
 longing to the Protestant Church in Geneva. They 
 were interesting and important personages, who in- 
 spired me with a curious mixture of respect and 
 discomfort, and to whom my grandmother had 
 brought various introductions from her friends the 
 French Protestant past curs at Paris.
 
 146 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 There was a garden to which she took me, not 
 far from our hotel, with beautiful shady trees and 
 spreading grass. In the garden stood a white 
 chapel clean, light, bare, decorous, with some black 
 and white marble ornamentations. A woman in a 
 black frilled cap showed us to our seats, and there 
 we waited, listening for some time to a clanging 
 bell. Then the service began. Only one or two 
 people came to it, but the place, although to others 
 it might speak of most fervent and passionate emo- 
 tion, seemed oppressive with chill and silent religion 
 to me. When all was over, my grandmother had 
 some low-voiced conversation with the woman in 
 the black cap, who beckoned to the bell-ringer, and 
 the result of the whispering was that, after a short 
 delay, we were led across the grass and under the 
 trees to a retired part of the garden, where in the 
 shade of some bushes sat an old man of very noble 
 aspect, with long white hair falling on his shoulders. 
 He looked to me like some superior being. Indeed, 
 to my excited imagination it seemed as if I were 
 being brought up to the feet of a prophet, to some 
 inspired person who was sitting there in authority 
 and in judgment on all the rest of the world. This 
 old man was M. Cesar Malan, the head of a section 
 of the Calvinist Church in Geneva, whose name was 
 well known and very widely respected. He had 
 built the chapel in his garden. Not a little to my
 
 IN VILLEGGIATURA 147 
 
 consternation, after a few words with my grand- 
 mother, he immediately, with the utmost kindness, 
 began asking me questions about myself, about my 
 convictions, my religious impressions, my hopes, 
 my future aspirations. He was very kind, but even 
 an angel from heaven would be alarming, suddenly 
 appearing to a girl of fifteen with such a catechism. 
 The more kindly he pressed me, the less able I was 
 to answer. Sometimes I said too much, sometimes 
 I was hopelessly silent, and in the midst of a ner- 
 vous discussion as to the ultimate fate of Judas 
 (I felt somewhat akin to him myself) the scene 
 ended in my bursting into tears of embarrassment 
 and hopeless confusion. I was consoled on our re- 
 turn to the hotel by my grandfather, who was most 
 sympathetic. "Those, my dear child," he said, 
 " who have studied deeply, who are able to read 
 the Scriptures in the original, are far more likely 
 than you or I to be able to judge correctly upon 
 such important subjects, and we had therefore 
 better leave all such speculations entirely to them." 
 That next winter, which we spent in Paris, we 
 used to attend the classes of a man even better 
 known than Cesar Malan Adolphe Monod, who 
 remains to me one of the most striking and noble 
 figures I have ever met; his face, his dark eyes, all 
 spoke as well as his eloquent voice, and, above all, 
 his earnest life and ways. To me he seemed the
 
 148 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 St. Paul of my own time; and those classes which 
 cost so many tears, and which gave rise to so much 
 agitated discussion, are still among the most touch- 
 ing and heart-reaching experiences of my life. I 
 can see the girls' faces now, as they listened to 
 their beloved pastcnr. Our hearts were in our 
 lessons, as his was in his teaching, undoubtedly; 
 we were all in earnest and ready to follow; only, 
 though I longed to be convinced, I could only ad- 
 mire and love the lesson and the teacher as well. 
 He warned, encouraged, explained in his earnest, 
 gentle voice. "Ah, mes enfants," I can hear him 
 saying, " fuyez, fuyez ce monde !" Fly the world ! 
 If ever the world was delightful and full of interest 
 it was then the daily task, the hour and its inci- 
 dents eventful and absorbing ; if ever our hearts 
 were open to receive, not to reject, it was then. 
 M. Monod himself was no unimportant factor in my 
 world. I once saw Faraday, who reminded me of 
 him. The pastcnr had come to see my grandmoth- 
 er on this occasion, and I met him on the staircase; 
 but he passed me by, and did not recognize me out 
 of my place in the second row of chairs, nor did I 
 venture to speak to him. I still remember the 
 strange thrill we felt, and which ran in a whisper 
 along the class, when we heard that Henrietta P. 
 had been refused her first communion for going 
 to a ball within a week of the event. She came no
 
 IN VILLEGGIATURA 149 
 
 more to the meetings. The girls sat in their places 
 on rows of straw chairs, and many of the parents 
 accompanied them. Sometimes in a corner by the 
 window holding up a small Bible, in which he fol- 
 lowed the references with attention, there sat an 
 oldish gentleman, who was (so we were told) the 
 great prime-minister, M. Guizot. 
 
 My father did not sail for America till the au- 
 tumn of that year, but we remained on at Paris with 
 our grandparents. The sun streamed into our apart- 
 ments all day long, for we had windows looking to 
 every side of the compass. When Paris was get- 
 ting intolerably hot, we started for the country, 
 where my grandfather had taken a country-house 
 on a lease for two or three years, in a village called 
 Mennecy, near Corbeil. Mennecy was a straggling 
 little village among peat fields, crossed by narrow 
 black streams, or canals, of the color of the peat. 
 Growing by the banks were long rows of stumpy 
 willow-trees, cut year by year for the sake of the 
 osiers, which were sold to the basket-makers. Here 
 and there, perhaps at the turn of the stream, some 
 single tree had been allowed to grow to its natural 
 dimensions, forming a sequestered nook where some 
 of us used to bathe on hot summer days'. Two 
 young friends of my grandmother's Laura and 
 Pauline C. were with us most of the time we were
 
 150 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 living in this villcggiatura, and Pauline especially 
 loved the water, and used to come home fresh and 
 smiling and pluming herself after her cool divings. 
 Mennecy was a rural spot among willow -trees, a 
 perfect retreat for hot weather. 
 
 There was an old paved place in the centre of 
 the village, leading to a fine old church well served 
 and well frequented, of which the Sunday bells 
 clanged far across the country. We used to see the 
 congregation assembling in cheerful companies, ar- 
 riving from outlying farms, and greeting each other 
 in the market-place before the mass began ; a con- 
 gregation with more of talk and animation than 
 with us, with blue smocks and white linen coiffcs, 
 and picturesque country cloaks and sabots. \Ye 
 used somewhat ruefully to wish to follow Pauline 
 and Louise (our cross maid-of-all-work) through the 
 swing-doors behind which the incense was tossing 
 and the organ rolling out its triumphant fugue. A 
 Roman Catholic service seems something of a high 
 festival, coming round Sunday after Sunday, a rite 
 bringing excitement and adoration along with it. 
 Our own village church -bells also ring out, calling 
 to the peaceful congregations; calling us to some- 
 thing more tranquil, more free, and more full of in- 
 dividual feeling to an aspiration rather than to a 
 rite. 
 
 My grandparents' house had once been a hunt-
 
 IN VILLEGGIATURA 151 
 
 ing-lodge belonging to Henry IV., who loved the 
 neighborhood, and frequented Compiegne long 
 years before the President Louis Napoleon, or 
 the Emperor Napoleon III. and his courtiers, and 
 their ladies in hunting-costumes, and with spirit- 
 ed horses and fanfarons, all followed the chase. I 
 don't remember ever seeing any of them, but we 
 had a general impression that those hunting com- 
 panies were about, and any day a gay procession, 
 not unlike something out of a fairy-tale, might 
 come riding past our old gates. They were old 
 creaking gates, which had once been green, now 
 gray and weather-stained ; our high walls, which had 
 once been white, were also green and stained and 
 overgrown by a vine. M. Roche had given \\sjoce- 
 lyn to read about a year before, and I used to think 
 of the description of the cure's home as I stood in 
 the old court -yard at Mennecy, with its well and 
 its vine-clad walls. There was an old well with a 
 wrought-iron top to it and a rope, and there was a 
 vine travelling along the margin and spreading be- 
 yond it, along the wrought-iron railing, to the pret- 
 ty old iron gate dividing the court -yard from the 
 old garden at the back, which, with its dainty, rusty 
 iron scrolls, excluded the cocks and hens that flap- 
 ped and picketed and strutted all day long in the 
 front court, and roosted at night in the great empty 
 stables opposite our house.
 
 152 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 The hunting-lodge, before it had become our 
 home, had been turned into a farm ; the knights 
 and cavaliers had made way for blouses and cow- 
 herds, and the hunters had given up their stalls 
 to heavy cart-horses, though, indeed, there was 
 room to spare for any number of either. But the 
 farmer died in time, and his widow married the 
 milkman, and she let the old place to my grand- 
 father, who had a special purpose in coming to 
 Mennecy. 
 
 A flight of stone steps led from the court-yard 
 to the house, just as one sees in Scotland, which 
 looks so like France in places. Our front windows 
 opened on to a garden, and the passages and the 
 sitting-rooms were panelled in some parts. We 
 could walk all round the drawing-room between 
 the panels and the walls ; nor was it dark within 
 the wainscot, for there were two little windows at 
 either end to give light to the spiders and the ac- 
 tive mice who chiefly frequented this passage. The 
 floors were all of brick, on which we had laid a. car- 
 pet, and my grandmother had brought a blue sofa 
 and chairs from Paris, and hired a piano in Corbeil. 
 
 " Qucl charmant.. meuble 1" our neighbor the 
 Maire used to say when he came in of an evening, 
 bowing politely to the piano and then to us. Pol- 
 ished rosewood! ivory keys! gilt handles ! He was 
 genuine in his enthusiastic admiration. To hear
 
 IN VILLEGGIATURA 153 
 
 him one would think there had never been such a 
 piano since the world began. It got very much 
 out of tune, but that did not shake our faith in it. 
 We gave parties on the strength of the charmant 
 uicublc. Piano company (so we considered our- 
 selves) was not so very common in the neighbor- 
 hood. Laura could play (as she still does) to the 
 delight of her listeners ; Pauline had a very sweet 
 mezzo soprano voice, and used to sing to the piano 
 and to us of summer evenings. M. le Maire was 
 also very fond of singing and of being accompanied. 
 His wife was not musical, but our young ladies were 
 very patient and kind, and used to repeat the more 
 difficult passages over and over again for him, and 
 try not to laugh when he went very much out of 
 tune. My sister and I used to find the panelled 
 passages a convenient retreat occasionally, when a 
 note went very wildly astray ; or we could always 
 run out through the French windows into the gar- 
 den, where the grasshoppers' concert would also 
 strike up of fine summer evenings, and seemed to 
 whistle and spread far, far beyond the corn-fields 
 and the poppy - heads. There was a terrace at the 
 end of the garden where a pavilion stood overlook- 
 ing the high-road, from which we could see the reg- 
 iments as they passed on their way to Corbeil, and 
 the dragoons watering their horses at the little vil- 
 lage inn. All along this terrace grew pumpkin
 
 154 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 plants, which we scarcely noticed when we first ar- 
 rived, although we were full of admiration for the 
 luxuriant vines hanging from all the walls, and of 
 which one charming tunnelled avenue ran right 
 across a corner of the garden. Pauline and I used 
 to sit there that summer-time under the green shad- 
 ows, making believe to learn Italian with Goldoni 
 and a dictionary that is to say, I was making 
 believe ; she not only learned the language, but 
 married a Milanese gentleman in after-years. Only 
 the other day, as we sat entranced by Madame 
 Duse's gracious inspirations, I seemed for the first 
 time to enter into the real spirit of those by-gone 
 and almost forgotten studies. Goldoni suddenly 
 came to life again, and I thought of the old green 
 vine avenue, and the books I had been bored by as 
 a girl began to speak to me for the first time. As 
 the autumn \vent on myriads of wasps appeared ; 
 the grapes swelled and turned to golden sweetness; 
 we used to go into the garden with hunches of 
 bread, and gather our own breakfasts and lunch- 
 eons growing on the walls. Along with the grapes 
 came the pumpkins, and they also grew. Cinder- 
 ella's were nothing to them ; the huge balls came 
 swelling and rolling down upon us, coloring and 
 rising in every direction. We got frightened at 
 last it seemed wicked to waste them ; we boiled 
 them, we passed them through sieves, we steeped
 
 IN VILLEGGIATURA 155 
 
 them in milk by the Maire's advice. At the end of 
 three or four days we absolutely loathed them. 
 The pigs of the neighborhood, already satiated 
 with pumpkin, refused to touch them any more. 
 On the fifth day a neighbor sent us in a great bas- 
 ketful as a present. We were literally bombarded 
 with pumpkins that year, but let us hope it was a 
 specially good year for fruit. 
 
 I said that my grandfather had a special purpose 
 in view when he brought us to Mennecy. Our dear 
 Colonel Newcome had a fancy that he could re- 
 habilitate the family fortunes by establishing a 
 manufactory for peat fuel, which was to be made 
 by the help of an ingenious machine. It had been 
 invented by an old friend, who had sold him the 
 patent for a certain sum, and as a special favor. 
 This same friend, who seems to have been ingen- 
 ious, though an expensive acquaintance, had also 
 invented a wooden horse, which was to supersede 
 the usual living quadrupeds. It had the great ad- 
 vantage of only eating coal and coke, but I believe 
 it was found all the same to be much more ex- 
 pensive than the real animal, and far less intelli- 
 gent. I remember seeing the ingeniously carved 
 hoofs of the wooden horse standing on the piano, 
 with a drawing for his cast-iron inside. I was only 
 once shown the peat-machine ; it looked something 
 like a stove, and used to be poked by an old woman,
 
 156 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 while a little boy with a barrow brought up the 
 peat, which was then and there turned into black 
 cakes. We never made our fortunes out of the 
 peat, but we burned a great stack of it, which glowed 
 bright and clear, and lasted through several winters, 
 and I believe the whole thing was finally handed 
 over to an experimentalist on the spot, who may 
 still be there for all I know. He was a short and 
 swarthy man, who used to come and bargain in the 
 dining-room at enormous length. 
 
 As my grandparents had spent several summers 
 at Mennecy, they had made acquaintance with the 
 two or three neighbors, and with the family at the 
 clidteau. We used to pass the chateau when we 
 walked along the high-road, which was divided from 
 the park by a wall. Here and there were iron gates, 
 through which we could see into the shady avenues 
 of poplar -trees and nut-trees, and in one place, 
 where an old bridge crossed a stream, we caught 
 sight of the old white house, with its shutters and 
 chimneys and high slated roof. There had been 
 another, a finer one, before this, we were told, stand- 
 ing in a different corner of the same park. A fine 
 old gateway still remained with its heraldic carvings 
 and mementos of the past, but the road had trav- 
 elled on elsewhere, and no longer passed under it, as 
 it did once long ago when the king's hunt used to 
 come along the avenue, which now led from noth-
 
 IN VILLEGGIATURA 157 
 
 ing to nowhere. There is a description of this very 
 place in Lucien Percy's delightful Memoirs of Pres- 
 ident Renault and Madame Du Deffand : 
 
 " The first chdtcau belonged to the early days of Louis 
 XV., and was inhabited by the great Marechal de Villeroi," 
 says the book. " Remy Renault had a pretty country- 
 house at Etioles [Etioles comes back to me with its willow- 
 trees and dark amber canals] ; it was the house that Ma- 
 dame de Pompadour afterwards lived in. Renault used to 
 spend part of the year there, and as his son was fond of 
 sport, he bought for him from the Marechal de Villeroi a 
 rangership and the place of Governor of Corbeil. The old 
 Marechal took a fancy to young Renault, and used to keep 
 him to stay at the chateau, and also at his little house at 
 Soisy, near Etioles. As ranger of the district Renault often 
 received the Dauphin, the Duke of Burgundy, and the Duke 
 of Berry, who used to come with a small suite to Ville- 
 neuve-Saint-Georges. The Dauphin used to hunt wolves, 
 accompanied by the ranger ; the young princes only shot 
 pheasants. It is curious nowadays to think of people hunt- 
 ing wolves at Villeneuve-Saint-Georges," continues Lucien 
 Percy, still conjuring up my past for me, and then he gives 
 a note, saying : " The remains of the Chateau de Villeroi 
 still exist on the right hand of the road from Corbeil to 
 Mennecy, a road which is always called in the country ' La 
 route de Villeroi.' " 
 
 And this was the road along which we used to 
 straggle of summer evenings. 
 
 The people who were living at the chateau when 
 we lived at Mennecy (the first ch&tcau, I believe, was
 
 158 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 burned down during the First Revolution) were 
 retired manufacturers who had given up business, 
 and who now dwelt at ease and in dignity, sheltered 
 by the high slated roofs and chimneys of the old 
 place. My grandparents had been introduced to 
 the family by our friend the Maire, and when we all 
 went up to call with him one day, the younger mem- 
 bers of the party were not without hopes of finding 
 some companions there, for we had seen a girl of 
 about our own age, who was, so the Maire told 
 us, an heiress, and the only daughter of the house. 
 As we walked up through the park we met the 
 gardener, who left his work to escort us to the 
 front door, calling loudly to a maid who sat darn- 
 ing stockings in the marble hall. She in turn put 
 down her work and disappeared through a tall 
 carved doorway, returning almost immediately to 
 ask us to go in. We found ourselves in a big draw- 
 ing-room with polished floors, and with many tall 
 windows opening to the garden ; some of them 
 were shuttered and curtained, and the room -was 
 rather dark. In it sat, in a semicircle with chairs 
 ready placed, the stout mother, the burly father, 
 and the broad-shouldered heiress in her plaid frock. 
 They received us very coldly, looking at us with cu- 
 riosity and aloofness, as if we had been specimens 
 of some strange, unknown race. I thought the 
 gardener and the sewing-maid also stared at us,
 
 IN VILLEGGIATURA 159 
 
 when they returned, almost immediately, with trays 
 of refreshment biscuits and glasses of beer, which 
 were handed round already poured out. I do not 
 know if this were a custom peculiar to the neighbor- 
 hood, or only to this particular family. The young 
 lady seemed surprised that we should refuse. 
 " What, English, and you do not take beer ?" she 
 said, placing her tumbler between her knees. Be- 
 tween her draughts she then went on to ask us 
 many questions about that strange country to 
 which we belonged, about our outlandish ways and 
 singular habits. It was a very different catechism 
 from M. Malan's. '' Did we ever go to church at 
 all ?" " Did we ever say any prayers?" " Did not 
 heretics fast every Sunday, instead of making it 
 a fete-day ?" " Had we ever heard of the Virgin 
 Mary [surprise expressed] and the saints [more sur- 
 prise] ?" Our friend the Maire saw with pain that 
 we young ladies were not getting on, and tried to 
 bring the conversation round to other more con- 
 genial topics than those fundamental differences 
 for which we should all have burned one another a 
 century before ; he therefore introduced the piano 
 by way of a diversion, the cJiannant mcublc from 
 Corbeil, and I could see that we slightly rose in our 
 host's estimation, but I came away all the same 
 very much put out. It is disagreeable to be both 
 damned in the future and looked down upon in the
 
 l6o CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 present, as one belonging to an ignorant and bar- 
 barous race. I felt as if all the Catholic saints in 
 Paradise, certainly all the French ones, were shrug- 
 ging their shoulders at us when we came away, and 
 I spoke quite crossly to M. le Maire when he asked 
 me what I thought of the chateau. 
 
 There used to be an odd stout figure walking 
 about Mennecy in a workman's blouse and loose 
 trousers, and with a cropped head of black hair and 
 an old casquette. We were told that it was a 
 woman ; and a wholly supposititious impression once 
 arose in some one's mind that it might have been 
 George Sand herself. I passed quite close by on 
 one occasion, when the mysterious personage looked 
 round and then turned away, and I thrilled from 
 head to foot. How odd those mysterious moments 
 are when nothing seems to be happening, but which 
 nevertheless go on all the rest of one's life. I saw 
 a face, stolid and sad, giving me an impression of 
 pain and long endurance which comes back still. 
 It seemed to be a woman's face, flabby and tanned, 
 not old. There was no gayety in it, no adventure 
 in the eyes; but expiation, endurance, defiance, I 
 know not what tragedy, was expressed by that thick- 
 set, downcast figure. I have now, alas, no doubt 
 that it was not George Sand. I had not read any 
 of her books then, but we had many things to read 
 besides in the old garden. There were various
 
 IN VILLEGGIATURA l6l 
 
 books my father had given us and told us to read 
 during his absence, Macaulay's Essays among them ; 
 and there was Pcndcnnis, which I had brought away 
 from home, and which has always seemed to me 
 more like hearing him talk than any other of his 
 books; and, above all, there were his letters which 
 came from time to time. He was giving lectures 
 at Manchester and elsewhere before sailing for 
 America, and there is one of his letters folded in 
 three, and addressed on the back to my sister at 
 Mennecy, Seine-et-Oise. 
 
 " You see here is the stuck-up hand as you like it best. . . . 
 I have not a great deal to say in the stuck-up hand. Ken- 
 sington is so gloomy that I can't stand it. ... How dismal 
 it must be for poor Eliza [Eliza was the housekeeper], who 
 has no friends to go to, who must stop in the kitchen all 
 day. As I think of her I feel inclined to go back and sit in 
 the kitchen with Eliza, but I dare say I shouldn't amuse her 
 much, and after she had told me about the cat, and how 
 her father was, we should have nothing more to say to one 
 another. Last week I was away at Manchester, when I 
 broke down in a speech before 3000 ladies and gentlemen. 
 I felt very foolish, but I tried again at night and did better, 
 and as there is nothing more wicked in breaking down in a 
 speech than in slipping on a bit of orange-peel and breaking 
 one's nose, why, I got up again, and made another speech 
 at night without breaking down. It's all custom, and most 
 people can no more do it than they can play the piano 
 
 without learning. I hope you and are learning hard 
 
 to play me to sleep when I come back from America. I
 
 1 62 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 believe I am going to Birmingham next week with the lect- 
 ures, and then to Manchester, and then Steward, bring 
 me a basin !" 
 
 Many years afterwards, long after I married, the 
 good and beautiful Lady Pease gave us the great 
 
 pleasure of meeting Mr. John Bright at dinner at 
 
 
 
 her house. I sat next Mr. Bright, and he began 
 speaking to me of my father, and of this very time. 
 " I remember," he said, " taking him to a meeting 
 at Manchester, just before he went to America with 
 his lectures. He broke down, and he was very 
 much annoyed, and he said to me : ' Who will ever 
 come and hear me lecture if I break down like this 
 before such a number of people ?' And I said to 
 him: 'Never you mind; very few people don't 
 break down at one time or another. You come 
 along with me this evening; I'm going to another 
 meeting; I'm not going to speak to fine fal-lal folks, 
 but to a set of good, honest wod<ing-men, and you 
 must try again.' And he spoke," said Mr. Bright, 
 in his downright way, "and I never heard a better 
 speech in all my life; it was a capital speech, and 
 they were all delighted with him." And then and 
 there Mr. Bright told me another little anecdote of 
 my father, whom he had met a short while before 
 his death at the Reform Club. He said that as he 
 was passing through the hall, he met him standing 
 in his way and he stepped back, took off his hat,
 
 IN VILLEGGIATURA 163 
 
 and stood with it in his outstretched hand. " What 
 is that for?" said Mr. Bright. "Why do you hold 
 your hat like that?" " Because I see the most con- 
 sistent politician I know going by," said my father, 
 " and I take off my hat to him." 
 
 When my father sailed for America, people were 
 very kind to us, and wrote to us with news of him. 
 Esmond came for my grandmother, and a box which 
 we received at Paris puzzled us very much, and de- 
 lighted us no less than it puzzled us. It contained 
 a magnificent iced cake, anonymously and carefully 
 packed with strips of many-colored paper. It was 
 not my father who had sent it, as we imagined, nor 
 was it till long afterwards that we discovered that 
 the sender was Mrs. Procter. Many things are re- 
 membered of her, but how many kind deeds there 
 have been of hers without a name to them ! 
 
 Once the letters began to arrive from America 
 we were all much happier, for we seemed in touch 
 with him once more, and to know what was happen- 
 ing. He was fairly well and in good spirits, and 
 making friends and making money. I remember 
 his writing home on one occasion and asking us to 
 send him out a couple of new stomachs, so hospi- 
 table were his friends over the water, so numerous 
 the dinners and suppers to which he was invited. 
 When the long summer and winter were over, 
 and the still longer spring, suddenly one day we
 
 164 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 heard that he was coming back much sooner than 
 he expected. I believe he saw a steamer starting 
 for home and could stand it no longer, and then 
 and there came off. 
 
 I can still remember sitting with my grandpar- 
 ents, expecting his return. My sister and I sat 
 on the red sofa in the little study, and shortly be- 
 fore the time we had calculated that he might ar- 
 rive came a little ring at the front-door bell. My 
 grandmother broke down ; my sister and I rushed 
 to the front door, only we were so afraid that it 
 might not be he that we did not dare to open it, 
 and there we stood until a second and much louder 
 ringing brought us to our senses. " Why didn't you 
 open the door?" said my father, stepping in, looking 
 well, broad, and upright, laughing. In a moment 
 he had never been away at all.
 
 TOUT CHEMIN
 
 X 
 
 AFTER his return from America my father took 
 an apartment in Paris for the autumn months, and 
 it was then that he told us he had made a plan for 
 wintering in Rome. It almost seems to me now 
 that all the rest of my life dates in some measure 
 from those old Roman days, which were all the 
 more vivid because my sister and I were still spec- 
 tators and not yet actors in the play. I was just 
 fifteen, my sister was still a little girl, but I thought 
 myself a young woman. I have written elsewhere 
 of Mrs. Kemble and Mrs. Sartoris and the Brown- 
 ings, who were all living at Rome that winter, with 
 a number of interesting people, all drinking, as w r e 
 were about to do, of the waters of Trevi. How few 
 of us returned to the fountain! But the proverb, I 
 think, must apply to one's spiritual return. For, 
 though one may drink and drink, and go back again 
 and again, it is ever a different person that stands 
 by the fountain, whereas the shadowy self by the 
 stone basin, bending over the rushing water, is the 
 same, and does not change. 
 
 We started early in December, my father, my
 
 1 68 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 sister, and I. He had his servant with him, for 
 already his health had begun to fail him. We 
 reached Marseilles in bitter weather late one night. 
 We laid our travelling plaids upon our beds to keep 
 ourselves warm, but though we shivered, our spirits 
 rose to wildest pitch next morning in the excite- 
 ment of the golden moment. The wonderful sights 
 in the streets are before me still the Jews, Turks, 
 dwellers in Mesopotamia, chattering in gorgeous 
 colors and strange languages ; the quays with their 
 crowded shipping and the amethyst water. I can 
 still see, in a sort of mental picture, a barge piled 
 with great golden onions floating along one of the 
 quays, guided by a lonely w r oman in blue rags with 
 a colored kerchief on her head. " There goes the 
 Lady of Shalot," said my father ; and when we 
 looked at him rather puzzled, for we knew noth- 
 ing of onions and very little of Tennyson in those 
 days, he explained that a shalot was a species of 
 onion, and after a moment's reflection we took in 
 his little joke, feeling that nobody ever thought of 
 such droll things as he did. Then we reached our 
 hotel again, where there were Turks still drinking 
 coffee under striped awnings, and a black man in a 
 fez, and a lank British diplomat, with a very worn 
 face, who knew my father, arriving from some out- 
 landish place with piles of luggage ; and we caught 
 sight of the master of the hotel and his family
 
 TOUT CHEMIN 169 
 
 gathered round a soup-tureen in a sort of glass con- 
 servatory, and so went up-stairs to rest and refresh 
 ourselves before our start that evening. All this 
 splendor and novelty and lux mundi had turned 
 our heads, for we forgot our warm wraps and half 
 our possessions at the hotel, and did not discover, 
 till long after the steamer had started with all of us 
 on board, how many essentials we had left behind. 
 The sun was setting as we steamed out of Mar- 
 seilles, and the rocky island of If stood out dark 
 and crisp against the rush of bright wavelets, across 
 which we strained our eyes to see Monte Cristo in 
 his sack splashing into the water of the bay. Then 
 we got out to sea, and the land disappeared by de- 
 grees. How the stars shone that night on board 
 the big ship ! The passengers were all on deck 
 talking in a pleasant murmur of voices, broken by 
 laughs and exclamations. Among them were some 
 people who specially attracted us, a very striking 
 and beautiful quartet from the north. There was 
 a lovely mother, oldish, widowed, but very beauti- 
 ful still ; the two charming daughters, one tall and 
 lovely, the other -a piquante brunette; there was the 
 son, one of the handsomest young men I have ever 
 seen. They were going to Rome, they told us, for 
 the winter. Christina, the eldest girl, was dressed 
 in white. She seemed to me some fair Urania, con- 
 trolling: the stars in their wondrous maze as she and
 
 170 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 I and my sister paced the deck till it was very late, 
 and some bell sounded, and my father came up and 
 sent us down to our cabin. Then the night turned 
 bitter cold, and, as we had left our shawls on the 
 shores of France, we made haste to get to bed and 
 to be warm. Though it was cold, we liked fresh air 
 and were glad to find that our port-holes had been 
 left open by the steward ; we scrambled into our 
 berths, and fell asleep. I lay at the top, and my 
 sister in the berth below. How well I remember 
 waking suddenly in a slop of salt-water ! The ship 
 was sinking, we were all going to be drowned, and 
 with a wild shriek calling to my sister I sprang from 
 the cabin and rushed up the companion-steps on 
 deck. I thought she called me back, but I paid 
 no heed as I reached the top of the companion- 
 ladder, dripping and almost in tears, with my fatal 
 announcement. There I encountered the steward, 
 who began to laugh, and who led me back crest- 
 fallen to our cabin, at the door of which my sister 
 was standing. The water was dancing in, .in a 
 stream, and the steward scolded us well as he 
 screwed up the port -holes and got us some dry 
 bedding. Next morning, to my inexpressible mor- 
 tification, I heard some people telling the story. 
 " She rushed on deck, and declared the ship was 
 sinking," said one voice to another. I didn't wait 
 to hear any more, but fled.
 
 TOUT CHEMIN 171 
 
 The wind went down again, but it was still bit- 
 ter cold, and we shivered without our wraps, as we 
 steamed up to Genoa along the spreading quays 
 with their background of gorgeous palaces and 
 cloud-capped towers. There were convicts in their 
 chains at work upon the great steps of the quay, 
 who stared at us as we landed. And the very first 
 thing which happened to us when we found our- 
 selves in Italy at last the land where citrons 
 bloom, where orange flowers scent the air was 
 that we drove straight away to a narrow back 
 street, where we were told we should find a shop 
 for English goods, and then and there my father 
 bought us each a warm gray wrap, with stripes of 
 black, nothing in the least Italian or romantic, but 
 the best that we could get. And then, as we had 
 now a whole day to spend on shore, and shawls to 
 keep us warm, we drove about the town, and after 
 visiting a palace or two took the railway, which 
 had been quite lately opened to Pisa. The weath- 
 er must have changed as the day went on, for it 
 was sunshine, not Shetland wool, that warmed us 
 at last ; but the wind was blowing still, and what 
 I specially remember in the open Piazza at Pisa 
 is the figure of a stately monk, whose voluminous 
 robes were fluttering and beating as he passed us, 
 wrapped in darkness, mystical, majestic, with all the 
 light beyond his stateliness and the cathedral in its
 
 172 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 glory and the Leaning Tower aslant in the sunlight 
 for a background. 
 
 Our adventures for the day were not yet over. 
 At the station we found two more of the ship's 
 passengers, young men with whom we had made 
 acquaintance, and we all returned to Genoa to- 
 gether. The train was late, and we had to be on 
 board at a certain time, so that we engaged a car- 
 riage, and drove quickly to the quay, where the 
 convicts clanking in their chains were still at work. 
 A boat was found, rowed by some sailors who cer- 
 tainly did not wear chains, but who were otherwise 
 not very unlike those industrious convicts in ap- 
 pearance. The bargain was made, we entered the 
 boat all five, and as we were getting in we could 
 see our great ship in the twilight looking bigger 
 than ever, and one rocket and then another going 
 off towards the dawning stars. " They are signal- 
 ling for us," said one of our companions ; " we shall 
 soon be on board." 
 
 We had rowed some twenty strokes from the 
 shore by this time, when suddenly the boatmen 
 left off rowing ; they put down their oars, and one 
 of them began talking volubly, though I could not 
 understand what he said. " What's to be done?" 
 said one of the young men to my father. " They 
 say they won't go on unless we give them fifty 
 francs more," and he began shaking his head and
 
 TOUT CHEMIN 173 
 
 remonstrating in broken Italian. The boatmen 
 paid no attention, shrugged their shoulders, and 
 waited, as if they were determined never to row 
 another stroke. Then the steamer sent up two 
 more rockets, which rose through the twilight, 
 bidding us hurry ; and then suddenly my father 
 rose up in the stern of the boat where he was sit- 
 ting, and standing tall and erect, and in an anger 
 such as I had never seen him in before or after in 
 all my life, he shouted out in loud and indignant 
 English, " D n you, go on !" a simple maledic- 
 tion which carried more force than all the Italian 
 polysyllables and expostulations of our companions. 
 To our surprise and great relief, the men seemed 
 frightened, and took to their oars again and began 
 
 o o o 
 
 to row, grumbling and muttering. When we got 
 on board the ship, they told us it was a well-known 
 trick the Genoese boatmen were in the habit of 
 playing upon travellers, and that they would have 
 sent a boat for us if we had delayed any longer. 
 
 We reached our journey's end next morning, and 
 landed at Civita Vecchia about mid-day. This land- 
 ing was no less wonderful than everything else, we 
 thought, as we looked in awe at the glorious blaze 
 of color, at the square Campanile with its flat tilted 
 roof, and at all that we were going to see, which 
 was there to meet us on the very shore. To begin 
 with, there was the chorus from the Opera waiting
 
 174 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 in readiness men with pointed hats and Italian 
 legs, women in fancy dress, with fancy-dress babies, 
 all laughing, talking in Italian, and at home in 
 Italy. We had some trouble in getting our luggage 
 through the dogana. Most of the other travellers 
 started before we did, and we were among the 
 last to start for Rome. My father was anxious 
 to get on, for there were unpleasant rumors about 
 brigands on the road. Another family (Russians) 
 with a courier and a great deal of luggage was to 
 follow us, and some one suggested we should wait 
 for their escort ; but, on the whole, my father de- 
 cided to start. The afternoon shadows were begin- 
 ning to lengthen, when at length we were packed 
 and ready. We had a mouldy post-chaise, with a 
 gray ragged lining, and our luggage on the top. 
 We hoped to get to Rome before dark. I remem- 
 ber thrilling as my father buttoned his overcoat 
 and told us he had put his hundred louis for safety 
 into an inner pocket. 
 
 The country is not very beautiful between 'Civita 
 Vecchia and Rome at least, I do not remember 
 anything to distract our attention from our alarms. 
 We were just frightened enough to be stimulated 
 and amused as we jolted past the wide fields where 
 the men were at work. We sat all three abreast 
 in the jolting old carriage. My father's servant 
 was on the box. We were reading our Tauchnitz
 
 TOUT CHEMIN 175 
 
 books, being tired of watching the flat horizons, 
 when suddenly the carriage stopped, and Charles 
 Pearman, with a pale face of alarm, came to the 
 window and said that one of the traces had broken, 
 and that there were a number of people all com- 
 ing round the carriage. We were surrounded by 
 people as if by magic satyrs, shepherds, strange 
 bearded creatures with conical hats, and with pitch- 
 forks in their hands. The sun was just setting, and 
 dazzling into our faces all the time. For some five 
 minutes we waited, looking at each other in silence, 
 and wondering what was going to come next. At 
 the end of that time, and after a good deal of con- 
 versation with the postilions, the satyrs and fauns 
 went their way with their pitchforks, leaving us, 
 
 to our inexpressible relief, to continue our journey. 
 
 * 
 Then came the dusk at last, and the road seemed 
 
 longer and longer. I think I had fallen asleep in 
 my corner, when my father put his hand on my 
 shoulder. " Look !" he said ; and I looked, and, 
 lo ! there rose the dusky dome of St. Peter's gray 
 upon the dark-blue sky. 
 
 Very soon afterwards some one with a lantern 
 opened the gates of Rome and examined our pass- 
 port, and let us in. We drove to our hotel in the 
 Via Condotti, and when we awoke it was to the 
 sound of countless church bells in the morning 
 light.
 
 176 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 When we leaned from the window of our entresol 
 sitting-room, with its odd yellow walls, we could 
 almost touch the heads of the passers-by. It was 
 Sunday morning; all the bells were flinging and 
 ringing, and they seemed to be striking and vibrat- 
 ing against that wonderful blue sky overhead. How 
 well I remember my first Roman contadina as she 
 walked majestically along the street below black- 
 haired, white-becapped, white-besleeved, and cov- 
 ered with ornaments on her way to mass. 
 
 The Piazza. d'Espagna, at the end of our street, 
 was one flood of sunshine, in which other contadi- 
 nas and bambinos and romantic shepherds were all 
 floating when we came out to look and to winder. 
 Wonderful as it all was, it seemed also almost disap- 
 pointing. We had expected, we didn't know what ; 
 and this was something- something tangible, appre- 
 ciable, and, so far, less than we expected. "Wait 
 a little," said my father ; " people are always a little 
 disappointed when they first come to Rome." 
 
 I remember long after hearing Mr. Ap'pleton, 
 that wise and witty American, say, " People expect 
 to taste the result of two thousand years of civili- 
 zation in a morning. It takes more than a morn- 
 ing to receive so much into one's mind . . a life- 
 
 o 
 
 time is not too long." Mr. Appleton was right 
 when he said it takes a lifetime to realize some 
 ideas. But now and then one certainly lives a
 
 TOUT CHEMIN 177 
 
 lifetime almost in a comparatively flying minute ; 
 and those two months at Rome, short as they were, 
 have lasted my lifetime. The people, the sights, 
 the sounds, have never quite ceased for me yet. 
 They have become an habitual association, and 
 have helped to make that mental standard by 
 which one habitually measures the events as they 
 follow one another. 
 
 The first evening in Rome, as we sat at dinner at 
 the table d'hote, in the dark vaulted dining-room, 
 all the people, I remember, were talking confused- 
 ly of an attack by brigands upon some Russians on 
 the road from Civita Vecchia the very vagueness 
 of the rumor made it the more impressive to us. 
 There is a letter from my father which he must 
 have written to his mother the very next day; it is 
 dated Hotel Franz, via Condotti, December 6. 
 " We have very comfortable quarters at the hotel 
 where I lived before," he writes, " except for some 
 animal that bit me furiously when I was asleep yes- 
 terday on the sofa. It can't be a bug, of course 
 the chambermaid declares she has never seen such 
 a thing, nor so much as a flea, so it must be a scor- 
 pion, I suppose," and he goes on to compare St. 
 Peter's to Pisa. " We agreed Pisa is the best," he 
 says. " The other is a huge heathen parade. The 
 founder of the religion utterly disappears under the 
 enormous pile of fiction and ceremony that has
 
 178 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 been built round him. I'm not quite sure that I 
 think St. Peter's handsome. The front is positive- 
 ly ugly, that is certain, but nevertheless the city is 
 glorious. We had a famous walk on the Pincio, and 
 the sun set for us with a splendor quite imperial. I 
 wasn't sorry when the journey from Civita Vecchia 
 was over. Having eighty or ninety louis in my 
 pocket, I should have been good meat for the 
 brigands had they chosen to come." 
 
 Very soon our friends began to appear Mr. 
 Browning, Mr. Sartoris, Mr. /Eneas Macbean. Mr. 
 Macbean was the English banker. He was the 
 kindest of bankers, and used to send us piles of the 
 most delightful books to read. Lockhart's Scott 
 and Bulwer's heroes and Disraeli's saint-like politi- 
 cians all came to inhabit our palazzo, when we were 
 established there. Zanoni and that cat-like spirit of 
 the threshold are as vivid to me as any of the peo- 
 ple who used to come to dinner. We met our late 
 fellow-travellers (who now also seemed like old 
 friends) hurrying about in search of lodgings ; w r e 
 stood under the great dome of St. Peter's; we saw 
 the Tiber rushing under its bridges ; then, no doubt 
 in consequence of the scorpions, we went about to 
 look for lodgings, and it was Mr. Browning who 
 
 O *_> ' O 
 
 told us where to go. One can hardly imagine a 
 more ideal spot for little girls to live in than that to 
 which he directed us to a great apartment over
 
 TOUT CHEMIN 179 
 
 the pastry-cook's in the Palazzo Poniatowski, in the 
 Via Delia Croce. We climbed a broad stone stair- 
 case with a handsome wrought-iron banister, we 
 clanged at an echoing bell, and a little old lady in 
 a camisole, rejoicing in the imposing name of Sign- 
 ora Ercole, opened the door, and showed us into 
 a dark outer hall. Then she led the way from room 
 to room, until we finally reached a drawing-room 
 with seven windows, at which we exclaimed in pre- 
 liminary admiration. Among the other items of 
 our installation were a Chinese museum, a library, 
 a dining-room with a brazen charcoal-burner in the 
 centre, and besides all these we were to have a bed- 
 room, a dressing-room, and a cupboard for my 
 father's servant. My father took the dressing-room 
 for himself. He put me and my sister into the big 
 bedroom to the front, and the man retired to the 
 cupboard in the hall. Signora Ercole, our land- 
 lady, also hospitably offered us the run of her own 
 magnificent sitting-rooms, besides the four or five 
 we had engaged. I have a vague impression of her 
 family of daughters, also in camisoles, huddled 
 away into some humbler apartment, but we saw 
 little of them. We established ourselves in one 
 corner of the great drawing-room, clearing an inlaid 
 table of its lamps and statuettes, its wax flowers, 
 and other adornments. Then we felt at home. A 
 stone-mason suspended at his work began to sing in
 
 l8o CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 mid-air just outside one of the windows, there came 
 to us the sound of the pfiffcrari from the piazza 
 down below, and the flutter of the white doves' 
 wings and their flying shadows upon the floor, to- 
 gether with a scent of flowers and sense of foun- 
 tains, and the fusty, fascinating smell from the old 
 hangings and bric-a-brac. I think the Ercoles must 
 have done some business as brocanteurs, for the fur- 
 niture was more like that of a museum than a hu- 
 man living-house ; all over the walls they had rows 
 of paintings in magnificent gildings, of which the 
 frames were the most important parts. All the 
 same, the whole effect was imposing and delightful, 
 and we felt like enchanted princesses in a palace, 
 and flew from room to room. 
 
 About luncheon-time my father sent us down to 
 the pastry-cook's shop, where we revelled among 
 cream tarts and pctits fours, and then we ordered 
 our dinner, as people did then, from a trattoria 
 near at hand. Then we went out again, still in our 
 raptures, and when dinner-time came, just about 
 sunset, excitement had given us good appetites, 
 notwithstanding the tarts. We were ready, but 
 dinner delayed. We waited more and more impa- 
 tiently as the evening advanced, but still no dinner 
 appeared. Then the English servant, Charles, was 
 called, and despatched to the cook-shop to make 
 inquiry. He came back much agitated, saying the
 
 TOUT CHEMIN l8l 
 
 dinner had been sent that they assured him it had 
 been sent ! It had apparently vanished on its way 
 up the old palace stairs. " Go back," said my 
 father, " and tell them there is some mistake, and 
 that we are very hungry, and waiting still." The 
 man left the room, then returned again with a 
 doubtful look. There was a sort of box came an 
 hour ago, he said : " I have not opened it, sir." 
 With a rush my sister and I flew into the hall, and 
 there, sure enough, stood a square, solid iron box 
 with a hinged top. It certainly looked very unlike 
 dinner, but we raised it with faint hopes, which 
 were not disappointed ! Inside, and smoking still 
 upon the hot plates, was spread a meal like some- 
 thing in a fairy-tale roast birds and dressed meat, 
 a loaf of brown bread and compotes of fruit, and a 
 salad and a bottle of wine, to which good fare we 
 immediately sat down in cheerful excitement our 
 first Roman family meal together. 
 
 When people write of the past, those among us 
 who have reached a certain age are sometimes apt 
 to forget that it is because so much of it still exists 
 in our lives that it is so clear to us. And, as I have 
 said before, there is often a great deal more of the 
 past in the future than there was in the past itself 
 at the time. \Ve go back to meet our old selves, 
 more tolerant, forgiving our own mistakes, under- 
 standing it all better, appreciating its simple joys
 
 182 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 and realities. There are compensations for the loss 
 of youth and fresh impressions ; and one learns lit- 
 tle by little that a thing is not over because it is not 
 happening with noise and shape or outward sign ; 
 its roots are in our hearts, and every now and then 
 they send forth a shoot which blossoms and bears 
 fruit still. 
 
 Early life is like a chapter out of Dickens, I think 
 one sees people then ; their tricks of expression, 
 their vivid sayings, and their quaint humors and 
 oddities do not surprise one ; one accepts every- 
 thing as a matter of course no matter how un- 
 usual it may be. Later in life one grows more fas- 
 tidious, more ambitious, more paradoxical ; one be- 
 gins to judge, or to make excuses, or to think about 
 one's companions instead of merely staring at them. 
 All the people we now saw for the first time vivid 
 but mysterious apparitions ; we didn't know what 
 they were feeling and thinking about, only we saw 
 them, and very delightful they all were to look at. 
 
 Meanwhile our education was not neglected: We 
 had a poetess to teach us a little Italian, a signora 
 with a magnificent husband in plaid trousers, to 
 whom I am sure she must have written many po- 
 ems. Once she asked us to spend an evening in 
 her apartment. It was high up in a house in a 
 narrow street, bare and swept, and we found a 
 company whose conversation (notwithstanding all
 
 TOUT CHEMIN 183 
 
 Madame Elconora Torti's instructions) was quite 
 unintclligble to us. We all sat in a circle round a 
 great brass brazier in the centre of the bare room. 
 Every now and then the host took up an iron bar 
 and stirred the caldron round, and the fumes arose. 
 Two or three of the elder people sat in a corner 
 playing cards but here also we were at fault. The 
 cards represented baskets of flowers, coins, nuts, un- 
 known and mysterious devices ; among which the 
 familiar ace of diamonds was the only sign we could 
 recognize. 
 
 After these social evenings our man used to come 
 to fetch us home, through moonlight streets, past 
 little shrines with burning lamps, by fountains 
 plashing in the darkness. We used to reach our 
 great staircase, hurry up half frightened of ghosts 
 and echoes, but, being too much alive ourselves to 
 go quickly to sleep, we opened Mr. Macbean's fasci- 
 nating book, read by the light of our flaring can- 
 dles long after we had heard our father's door shut 
 and till the bell of the Frate in the convent close 
 by began to toll.
 
 MRS. KEMBLE
 
 XI 
 
 MY father was a very young man when he first 
 knew the Kemble family. In 1832 he himself was 
 twenty -one, a couple of years younger than Mrs. 
 Fanny Kemble, who was born in 1809. The men- 
 tions of the Kemble family in a diary which he 
 kept about that time are very constant. " Called 
 at Kemble's. Walked with Kemble in the Park." 
 (Kemble was John Mitchell Kemble, Mrs. Fanny 
 Kemble's brother.) "We met the Duke looking like 
 an old hero," he continues. " Breakfasted with 
 Kemble. Went to see the rehearsal of the Easter 
 piece at Covent Garden, with Farley in his glory." 
 Again : " Called at Kemble's. He read me some 
 very beautiful verses by Tennyson." On another 
 occasion my father speaks of seeing a " Miss Tot, a 
 very nice girl. Madam not visible ; " and again of 
 " Miss Fanny still in Paris. . . ." 
 
 It was in the year 1851, or thereabouts, that my 
 own scraps of recollections begin, and that I re- 
 member walking with my father along the high 
 street at Southampton, and somewhere near the 
 archway he turned, taking us with him into the old
 
 l88 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 Assembly Rooms, where I heard for the first and 
 only time in all my life a Shakesperean reading 
 by Mrs. Fanny Kemble. I think it was the first 
 time I ever saw her. She came in with a stiff and 
 stately genuflection to the audience, took her seat 
 at the little table prepared for her, upon which she 
 laid her open book, and immediately began to 
 read. My sister and I sat on either side of our 
 father. He followed every word with attention ; I 
 cannot even make sure of the play after all these 
 years, but Falstaff was in it, and with a rout and 
 a shout a jolly company burst in. Was it Falstaff 
 and his companions, or were they 
 
 " Fairies, black, gray, green, and white, 
 You moonshine revellers "? 
 
 Suddenly the lady's voice rose, with some gen- 
 erous cheery chord of glorious fun and jollity. I 
 can hear the echo still and see her action as she 
 pointed outwards with both open hands, and my 
 father, with a start, bursting into sympathizing 
 laughter and plaudit, began crying " Bravo ! Bravo !" 
 and then again he sat listening and looking approv- 
 ingly through his spectacles. As we came away he 
 once more broke into praise. " Don't you see how 
 admirably she forgets herself?" he said ; " how she 
 throws herself into it all? how finely she feels it?" 
 My father was the best of audiences, a born critic
 
 MRS. KEMBLE 189 
 
 and yet an enthusiast ; and to the last he could 
 throw himself into the passing mood, into the spirit 
 of the moment, while at the same time he knew 
 what it was he was admiring, and why he admired. 
 
 Some years passed before we met Mrs. Kcmble 
 again, in Rome. It was at a very hard and difficult 
 hour of her life, so I have heard her say, a time 
 when she needed all her courage to endure her 
 daily portion of suffering. I was then a hobblede- 
 hoy, and (though she was no less kind to me then 
 than in later years) I only stared and wondered at 
 her ways, asking myself what she meant, and how 
 much she meant by the things she said ; but when 
 I, too, was an older woman the scales fell from my 
 eyes. 
 
 One had to learn something one's self before 
 one could in the least appreciate her. When the 
 gods touch one's hair with gray, then comes some 
 compensating revelation of what has been and still 
 is. Now I can understand the passionate way in 
 which Mrs. Kemble used in early times to speak of 
 slavery ; then I used to wonder, nor realize in the 
 least what she felt, when she would sometimes start 
 to her feet in agitation and passionate declamation ; 
 she who with streaming eyes and wrung heart had 
 walked about the plantations feeling more, perhaps, 
 than any slave could do what it was to be a slave. 
 To her free and ruling nature every hour of bond-
 
 190 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 age must have seemed nothing short of tort- 
 ure. In those far-back Roman days of which I 
 have been writing, she used to take us out driving 
 with her from time to time. " Where shall I drive 
 to?" asked the coachman. " Andate al Diavolo!" 
 said Mrs. Kemble, gayly. " Go where you will, 
 only go!" And away we drive through the streets, 
 and out by garden walls and garden gates to the 
 Campagna, and as we drive along she begins to 
 sing to us. I could box my own past ears for won- 
 dering what the passers-by would think of it, in- 
 stead of enjoying that by-gone song. 
 
 I can also remember Mrs. Kemble sitting dressed 
 in a black dress silently working all through the 
 evening by her sister's fireside, and gravely stitch- 
 ing on and on, while all the brilliant company came 
 and went, and the music came and went. In those 
 days Mrs. Kemble had certain dresses which she 
 wore in rotation whatever the occasion might be. 
 If the black gown chanced to fall upon a gala-day 
 she wore it, if the pale silk gown fell upon a work- 
 ing-day she wore it ; and I can still hear an Ameri- 
 can girl exclaiming with dismay as the delicate 
 folds of a white silk embroidered with flowers went 
 sweeping over the anemones in the Pamphili Gar- 
 dens. Another vivid impression I have is of an 
 evening visit Mrs. Kemble paid Mrs. Browning in 
 the quiet little room in the Bocca di Leone, only lit
 
 MRS. KEMDLE IQI 
 
 by a couple of tapers and by the faint glow of the 
 fire. I looked from one to the other: Mrs. Brown- 
 ing welcoming her guest, dim in her dusky gown 
 unrelieved ; Mrs. Kemblc upright and magnificent, 
 robed on this occasion like some Roman empress in 
 stately crimson edged with gold. It happened to 
 be the red-dress day, and she wore it. " How do 
 you suppose I could have lived my life," I once 
 heard her say, " if I had not lived by rule, if I had 
 not made laws for myself and kept to them ?" Out 
 of this stress of feeling, out of this passionate re- 
 bellion against fate, she grew to the tender, the 
 noble and spirited maturity of her later days. In 
 time, by habit and degrees, we learn to understand 
 a little more how to fit ourselves to circumstances, 
 and life begins to seem possible and to contain 
 certain elements of peace and of philosophy ; it is 
 in mid-life when we try to accommodate our own 
 wants and wishes to those of others that the strain 
 is greatest and the problem occasionally passes be- 
 yond our powers of solution. Indeed, very few so- 
 lutions are possible, though wise compromises exist 
 for us all. Some are more adaptable than others, 
 and not having very positive selves to manage, hav- 
 ing impressions rather than strong convictions to 
 act upon, they run fairly well along other people's 
 lines ; but when strong feeling, vivid realizations, 
 passionate love of truth and justice, uncompromis-
 
 192 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 ing faith exist, then experience becomes hard in- 
 deed. When Mrs. Kemble went to her rest only 
 the other day, few among the critics who spoke so 
 inadequately of that great personality, who wrote 
 their conventional praise or indiscriminating blame, 
 had come into touch with the magnetism of her 
 personal inspiration. One only, her own and her 
 daughter's personal friend, Mr. Henry James, to 
 whom she turned with confidence and love to the 
 very last, has found words to write that of her which 
 those who knew her best will best appreciate. " A 
 prouder nature never fronted the long humiliation 
 of life," he says, touching upon the more tragic side 
 of her history. 
 
 One should have a different language to speak 
 with of each of those one has loved and admired in 
 turn. Such a language exists in one's heart, but 
 how can one translate it into print ? Some people 
 seem like green places in the desert; one thinks of 
 them, and one is at rest. It is also true that there 
 exist a certain number who oppress one with name- 
 less discouragement, bores past and present. But 
 the Elect are those who put life into one, who give 
 courage to the faint-hearted, hope out of their own 
 hearts' constancy; to these Fanny Kemble be- 
 longed indeed. To the end she retained the power 
 of making new friends, of being loved by them and 
 of loving them. One member of my own family,
 
 MRS. KEMBLE 193 
 
 whom the elder lady was pleased to christen Rosa- 
 lind, only knew her when she was long past seventy 
 years of age, but what a true and spontaneous 
 friendship was that which sprang up between them 
 both, one which added, so wrote Mrs. Wister, to 
 the happiness of her mother's later years. Mrs. 
 Kemble returned love with love in full measure, 
 whether it came to her in the shape of beauti- 
 ful white azaleas from an old friend's hand, or of 
 music played so as to delight her fine taste, or even 
 as dumme Licbe with nothing to say, nothing to 
 show. 
 
 I once went out shopping with her one spring 
 morning when she thought her room would look 
 the brighter for muslin curtains to admit the light. 
 She carried a long purse full of sovereigns in her 
 hand. We drove to Regent Street to a shop where 
 she told me her mother and her aunt used both to 
 go. It may have been over that very counter that 
 the classic " Will it wash?" was uttered. The shop- 
 man, who had assuredly not served Mrs. Siddons 
 or he would have learned his lesson earlier in life, 
 produced silken hangings and worsted and fabrics 
 of various hues and textures to Mrs. Kemble's great 
 annoyance. I had gone to another counter and 
 came back to find her surrounded by draperies, sit- 
 ting on her chair and looking very serious ; distant 
 thunder seemed in the air. " Young man," she
 
 IQ4 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 said to the shopman, " perhaps your time is ot no 
 value to you to me my time is of great value. I 
 shall thank you to show me the things I asked for 
 instead of all these things for which I did not ask," 
 and she flashed such a glance at him as must have 
 surprised the youth. He looked perfectly scared, 
 seemed to leap over the counter, and the muslin 
 curtains appeared on the spot. 
 
 Mrs. Kemble once asked me suddenly what color 
 her eyes were, and confused and unready I an- 
 swered, " Light eyes." At the moment indeed they 
 looked like amber, not unlike the eyes of some of 
 those captive birds one sees in their cages sitting 
 alone in the midst of crowds. Mrs. Kemble laughed 
 at my answer. " Light eyes ! Where are your own? 
 Do you not know that I have been celebrated for 
 my dark eyes?" she said; and then I looked again 
 and they were dark and brilliant, and looking at 
 me with a half-amused, half-reproachable earnest- 
 ness. 
 
 It must have been in the early years of the cen- 
 tury that Sir Thomas Lawrence sketched that well- 
 known and most charming head of Mrs. Fanny 
 Kemble with which we are most of us acquainted. 
 The oval face, the dark eyes, the wise young brows, 
 the glossy profusion of dark hair, represent her 
 youth ; she was no less striking in her age, though
 
 MRS. KEMBLE IQ5 
 
 no great painter ever depicted it. She grew to 
 be old indeed, but it was only for a little while that 
 she was an old woman. Stately, upright, ruddy and 
 brown of complexion, almost to the very last; mo- 
 bile and expressive in feature, reproachful, mock- 
 ing, and humorous, heroic, uplifted in turn. This 
 was no old woman, feeling the throb of life with 
 an intensity far beyond that of younger people, 
 splendid in expression, vehement, and yet at times 
 tender with a tenderness such as is very rare. She 
 was indeed one of those coming from the moun- 
 tain, one of the bearers of good tidings. As a 
 girl I used to watch Mrs. Kemble stitching at her 
 worsted work, and so in later days we have all seen 
 her ; sitting in her arm-chair, dressed in her hand- 
 some black silk Paris dress and lace cap. She sits 
 upright by the window, with flowers on the table 
 beside her, while her birds are pecking in their 
 cage. For a long time she kept and tended cer- 
 tain American mocking-birds, letting them out of 
 their cages to fly about the room, and perch here 
 and there upon the furniture. " I have no right," 
 she used to say, " to inflict the annoyance of my 
 pleasures upon my servants, and therefore I attend 
 to my birds and their requirements myself." She 
 emphasizes her words as she sits at work, stitching 
 in the long colored threads with extra point as she 
 speaks, or again, when she is interested in what she
 
 196 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 says, putting down her tapestry and looking straight 
 into your face, as she explains her meaning directly 
 and clearly, and without fear of being misunder- 
 stood. I once complained to her of something said 
 by some one else. " I do not care what any one 
 thinks of me, or chooses to say of me " I can al- 
 most hear her speak ; " nay, more than that, I do 
 not care what any one chooses to say of the peo- 
 ple I love ; it does not in any way affect the truth. 
 People are at liberty to speak what they choose, 
 and I am also at liberty not to care one farthing 
 for what they say nor for any mistakes that they 
 make." What Mrs. Kemble did care for, scrupu- 
 lously, with infinite solicitude, was the fear of hav- 
 ing ever caused pain by anything that she had said 
 in the energy of the moment ; she would remem- 
 ber it and think over it after days had passed. 
 People did not always understand her, nor how 
 her love of the truth, as it appeared to her, did 
 not prevent her tenderness for the individual ; she 
 would also take it for granted that whoever it was 
 she was talking to also preferred the truth to any 
 adaptation of it. Her stories of the past were end- 
 lessly interesting and various. She had known ev- 
 erybody of interest. She had always detested ba- 
 nalities, preferring silence to commonplace. Even as 
 a girl she seems to have gone to the root of things, 
 and made others speak from their hearts. Her pa-
 
 MRS. KEMBLE 197 
 
 thetic story of Mary Shelley haunts one with the 
 saddest persistence, and seems to sigh back the cur- 
 tain of the past. " Bring up a boy to think for him- 
 self," she as a girl once said to Mrs. Shelley; and to 
 this came the mother's passionate reply, " Ah ! no, 
 no ; bring him up to think like other people." 
 
 Mr. Henry James instances among her social 
 gifts her extraordinary power of calling up the 
 representation of that which was in her mind, and 
 impressing others with her own impression. Those, 
 he says, who sometimes went with her to the play 
 in the last years of her life will remember the Juli- 
 ets, the Beatrices, the Rosalinds, whom she could 
 still make vivid without any accessory except the 
 surrounding London uproar. 
 
 I myself fortunately once happened to ask her 
 some question concerning "As You Like It, "which 
 had been her sister's favorite play. Suddenly, as 
 if by a miracle, her little room seemed transformed; 
 there were the actors, not even actors ; there stood 
 Rosalind and Celia themselves, there stood the 
 Duke, there was Orlando in the life and spirit. 
 One spoke and then another, Rosalind pleading, 
 the stern Duke unrelenting ; then we were some- 
 how carried to the Forest, with its depths and its 
 delightful company. It all lasted but a few mo- 
 ments, and there was Mrs. Kemble again sitting in 
 her chair in her usual corner ; and yet I cannot to
 
 198 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 this day realize that the whole beautiful mirage did 
 not sweep through the little room, with color and 
 light and emotion, and the rustling of trees, and the 
 glittering of embroidered draperies. 
 
 Mrs. Kemble told me that she herself had only 
 once heard her aunt Mrs. Siddons read. She said 
 the impression was very overpowering, though she 
 had been almost a child at the time. It was from 
 the witches' scene in " Macbeth " that Mrs. Siddons 
 read. She was very old and broken at the time, 
 and living in retirement ; but she forgot her suffer- 
 ing state in her theme. The sense of storm and 
 mystery and power was all round about, Mrs. Kem- 
 ble said. One can imagine the scene, the dark-eyed 
 maiden sitting at the feet of the great actress and 
 receiving the initiation from her failing hands. 
 
 The true dramatic faculty does not indeed de- 
 pend on footlights, or on a stage ; it is a special 
 gift from spirit to spirit. Fanny Kemble was al- 
 most the very last representative of the ruling race 
 to which she belonged, and in no small degree 'did 
 she retain to the very end their noble gift of illumi- 
 nation, of giving life to words and feelings. She 
 herself has defined this power. " Things dramatic 
 and things theatrical are often confounded togeth- 
 er " she writes. " English people, being for the 
 most part neither one nor the other, speak as if 
 they were identical, instead of so dissimilar that they
 
 MRS. KEMBLE 199 
 
 are nearly opposite. That which is dramatic in hu- 
 man nature is the passionate, emotional, humorous 
 element, the simplest portion of our composition ; 
 that which imitates it is its theatrical reproduction. 
 The dramatic is the real of which the theatrical is 
 the false. A combination of the power," she con- 
 tinues, " of representing passion and emotion with 
 that of imagining or conceiving it is essential to 
 make a good actor ; their combination in the high- 
 est degree alone makes a great one." 
 
 I remember Mrs. Sartoris once saying: "I do not 
 know if you will think it very conceited of me ; but 
 it always seems to me that no one I ever talk to 
 seems able to say anything clearly and to the point, 
 except myself and my sister Fanny. When she 
 speaks I know exactly what she means and wants 
 to say; when other people speak, I have to find out 
 what they mean, and even then I am not certain 
 that they know it themselves." As Mrs. Sartoris 
 spoke she looked at me with her searching glance ; 
 her beautiful head was like that of some classical 
 statue nobly set upon her shoulders. But no clas- 
 sical statue ever looked at you as she did ; her eyes 
 and mouth spoke before she uttered. She always 
 seemed to me an improvisatrice. Both these wom- 
 en had the rare power of stirring and stimulating 
 one's sleepy makeshift soul, suggesting, satisfying. 
 It was as if Mrs. Sartoris could at will compel the
 
 200 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 sound and the sense and the color into that in 
 which she was interested, so that we were all for 
 the time, and indeed for a lifetime since, illumined 
 by her. 
 
 Mrs. Sartoris was living in Paris in the Rue Roy- 
 ale, at one time, in a very stately apartment. It 
 seemed to suit her, as did all handsome and beauti- 
 ful things. I don't suppose the modern aesthetic 
 taste would have suited her. She liked glorious 
 things full of color, Italian, sumptuous, and she 
 liked them used for daily life and pleasure. She 
 made a home out of her lovely bric-a-brac and ta- 
 pestries and cabinets. Something, of course, must 
 be allowed for the grateful excitement of inexperi- 
 ence ; but to us in those days her houses seemed 
 like succeeding paradises upon earth. I can re- 
 member on one occasion gazing in admiration at 
 a glowing shaded lamp, the first I had ever seen, 
 reflected from one glass to another, and listening 
 to my hostess as she sang Oberon's " Mermaid 
 Song," from the far end of the room. Then came 
 dinner in an octagon dining-room at a round table 
 with pink wax candles and ices, and then a quick 
 drive to the theatre where our stalls were kept for 
 us. I remember neither the name of the theatre 
 nor of the play, only the look of the bright lighted 
 stage, and the pretty white house full of spectators. 
 Mrs. Sartoris was using a pair of turquoise eye-
 
 MRS. KEMBLE 2OI 
 
 glasses, through which she looked about, and pres- 
 ently she whispered to me, "There, to your left, in 
 the box on the first tier." I looked, expecting I 
 know not what, and my first impression was disap- 
 pointment. I saw some figures in the box two 
 men standing at the back, and a lady in a front seat 
 sitting alone. She was a stout middle-aged wom- 
 an, dressed in a stiff watered-silk dress, with a huge 
 cameo, such as people then wore, at her throat. 
 Her black shiny hair shone like polished ebony ; 
 she had a heavy red face, marked brows, great 
 dark eyes ; there was something how shall I say 
 it? rather fierce, defiant, and set in her appear- 
 ance, powerful, sulky ; she frightened one a little. 
 " That is George Sand," said Mrs. Sartoris, bend- 
 ing her head and making a friendly sign to the 
 lady with her eyeglasses. The figure also bent its 
 head, but I don't remember any smile or change 
 of that fixed expression. The contrast struck me 
 the more, for my hostess, as I have said, scarcely 
 needed to speak to make herself understood ; her 
 whole countenance spoke for her even if she was 
 silent. George Sand looked half -bored, half -far- 
 away ; she neither lighted up nor awoke into greet- 
 ing.* 
 
 * I like better to think of George Sand as I never saw her, with 
 gray hairs and a softened life, outcoming and helpful, and living in 
 later years among her plants and her grandchildren and her poor 
 people ; to imagine her as I have heard her described in her age,
 
 202 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 Mrs. Kemble once said she had heard George 
 Sand described half in fun as " unamiable, very em- 
 phatic, very dictatorial very like herself, in short"; 
 but perhaps the description was as superficial in 
 one case as it assuredly would have been in the 
 other. 
 
 Mrs. Kemble was dramatic rather than dictato- 
 rial. Her selection of facts was curiously partial 
 and even biassed; not so her uncompromising sense 
 of their moral value. When she sat with her watch 
 open before her, reading, writing, working to rule, 
 it was because time itself was of importance, in her 
 eyes, rather than her work. For her, life belonged 
 to time, rather than time to life. " Do you think 
 I could have borne with my life if I had not lived 
 by rule," she used to say. She carried her love of 
 method into everything, even into the game of pa- 
 tience with which she amused herself. Evening 
 after evening the table would be set and the ap- 
 pointed number of games would be played con- 
 scientiously, as she sat, whether she was tired or 
 not, inclined or not, as a beloved enchantress deal- 
 ing out past destinies to the pasteboard men and 
 women on the table before her. Mrs. Kemble once 
 
 beneficent, occupied, tending and prescribing, distributing the sim- 
 ples out of her garden, healing the sick, softened by time, giving to 
 others day by day what she had earned by her nights of persistent 
 work.
 
 MRS. KEMBLE 203 
 
 sent over for a neighbor to teach him patience; 
 one might moralize over the combination Mrs. 
 Kemble teaching patience in her grand -seigneur 
 fashion, and meekly subservient to its laws ! It was 
 indeed because she was so conscious of passionate 
 interests and diversities that she tried to shape her 
 life to one recurring pattern. A friend recalls an 
 anecdote of Frederika Bremer, who was not willing 
 to see Mrs. Kemble on one occasion, explaining 
 afterwards, " I could not see so many people as 
 you are when I had a headache." She was indeed 
 many people actors and musicians, philosophers, 
 teachers, and poets in one. She was eighty before 
 she attempted a novel, but her letters are models, 
 especially the earlier ones. Her poems are very 
 lovely. Her farewell to the Alps was written after 
 threescore years and ten had passed over her head, 
 and I heard her read it with tears. Once I asked 
 her why she so disliked the stage, loving all that 
 belonged to it as she did. She said that it was be- 
 cause she loved her own being even more than her 
 art ; that she found the constant stimulation of 
 emotion in time destroyed in herself the possibility 
 of natural feeling, and that she wished to keep the 
 possession of her own soul ; but I think she has also 
 written this somewhere in her Records. 
 
 Perhaps the most distinguishing stamp of her 
 character was her great and fervent piety. Her
 
 204 CHAPTERS FROM SOME UNWRITTEN MEMOIRS 
 
 convictions were very deep ; what she said of her 
 own religious faith was that it was " invincible, un- 
 reasoning." I have heard a friend describe how, 
 as they came along the mountain-pass from Rose- 
 laui, Mrs. Kemble made her bearers set her down at 
 the summit of the ascent. " I will lift up mine eyes 
 unto the hills," she said, breaking out into the 
 words of the psalm, and repeating verse after verse. 
 She used to go regularly to church when she was in 
 London, though I do not think any of the steeples 
 and pulpits which adorn South Kensington exactly 
 suited the deep and fervent spirit of her faith. She 
 was neither high church nor low church nor broad 
 church, and once after witnessing a Catholic cere- 
 mony, the Fttte Dieu, in some foreign city, she ex- 
 claimed to her man-servant, " Oh, Covert, what an 
 amusing religion you have !" But her faith was a 
 noble one, and her great reverence for what was 
 good and great seemed to make goodness and great- 
 ness nearer to us. 
 
 Of all possessions, that of the added power which 
 comes to us through the gifts of others is one of 
 the most mysterious and most precious. We are in- 
 adequate in a thousand ways, but the grace is there ; 
 we are disappointed and inefficient, and yet we can 
 be happy in a perfection which may be revealed at 
 any moment, in the twinkling of an eye. It is like 
 some secret link binding humanity together, some
 
 MRS. KEMBLE 205 
 
 fraction of the rainbow hidden among the clouds 
 and the tears of life. 
 
 Mrs. Kemble possessed to a rare degree the gift 
 of ennobling that to which she turned her mind. 
 Kindness is comparatively commonplace, but that 
 divine touch which makes others feel akin to qual- 
 ities greater than they are conscious of in them- 
 selves, was, I think, the virtue by which she brought 
 us all into subjection. 
 
 THE END
 
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