^ C'CC ( - CSX^<3tjcg CKCKOC SSO cae c--- r HISTORY OF THK NORTH MEXICAN STATES. WORKS OF HENRY L. OAK VOL. I. ANNALS OF THE SPANISH NORTHWEST NOETH MEXICAN STATES (Vol. X. of the Bancroft History of the Pacific States. AUTHOR'S COPY 1884 PREFACE. THIS collection of my historical writings is not, in its pres ent form, published, offered for sale or criticism, or even printed for private distribution. The volumes, purchased from the publishers for the purpose, are bound in this form for preservation as a family relic. These works originally formed a part of the series in thirty- nine volumes, published under the titles of Bancroft's Works, or Bancroft' s Native Races and History of the Pacific Spates. Eight volumes as they stand here are complete in the original form, with no change except in the title-pages and binding. Two volumes are made up of fragments in the form of com plete chapters ; and one volume, containing only one such chapter, includes a duplication of the Pioneer Register from Vols. II V of the History of California, several chapters on the Annals of Nueva Galicia, originally written by me for the North Mexican States, but transferred to the Mexico, and used as material, with considerable change, by another writer, so that I make no claim to the authorship ; and, finally, an un published statement, entitled Literary Industries in a New Light. My part of the original series was almost exactly ten vol umes in the aggregate. This collection does not include quite all of the matter written by me, lacking many fragments of chapters, including nearly one hundred pages in Vol. II of the Native Races, which could not be conveniently bound in this form, or, at least, were not among the portions purchased by me for preservation. Respecting the authorship, and various relevant matters, I have much to say elsewhere, and a few words will suffice here. Of the ten volumes I was the legitimate and sole author. The plan of treatment in each topic, the study of authorities, the conclusions reached, and the language in which they were ex pressed, were entirely mine. There is no editorial re vision by me of others' work, and no revision of my work by others. Nearly all of my manuscript after completion was read by Mr. Bancroft ; but his reading was hasty, and his penciled sug gestions were few and superficial. Moreover, in nearly every instance the manuscript was returned to me, and the final revision in manuscript or proof was my own. True, my work, like that of all my associates, was founded largely on index notes and references made by many other men, and representing the labor of many years. But these notes were used by me as guides to the sources, and they sim ply enabled me to accomplish in ten years the portion of my eighteen years' labor devoted directly to the writing of these volumes what in the ordinary way I could not have accom plished, even much less thoroughly, in thirty years. As this collection is not for the public or the critic, my pre face is directed solely to the few relatives and friends who may see it ; and to them I offer no apology for preserving my writings in this form. In my view, it is a natural and par donable egotism on the part of a writer, to be not ashamed but proud of his life-work. The Bancroft series in late years rests under a cloud of dis approval and distrust ; and, of course, the cloud covers all its parts, since the public is ignorant in detail of possible grounds for discrimination. Condemnation, however, is not founded to any great extent on the intrinsic qualities of the work as a whole, but rather on those of a certain small portion, and mainly on certain deservedly unpopular characteristics and methods of the publisher. So far as my Annals of the Spanish Northwest is concerned directly, no critic of presumable competency has attempted to controvert any record or conclusion ; several of high authority have commended the work heartily ; and the only unfavorable criticism the well-founded one that, by reason of its bulk, excess of detail, and mechanical arrangement, it is unreadable, except by topics and sections might, perhaps, not have been urged had the work been published separately for just what the author intended it to be a reference book of provincial, local, and personal records. Therefore, in the distant future, when current prejudices shall have died out, I have some faith that my conscientious labor of many years, with an exceptional wealth of document ary resources, may be decided to have produced creditable results of some real value, as a fairly accurate, comprehensive, and impartial record of the beginnings in a broad and impor tant section of our country. HENRY L. OAK. SEIGLER SPRINGS, May, 1893. PREFACE. THE territorial basis of the present work, fourth in the completed series, and entitled HISTORY OF THE NORTH MEXICAN STATES, corresponds to the modern Texas, Coahuila, Durango, Chihuahua, New Mexico, Sinaloa, Sonora, Arizona, and the two Californias; but the history of New Mexico, Arizona, and Upper California is here given only in the briefest outline, because fully treated in separate works. To the eastern provinces of Texas and Coahuila much less space proportionately is devoted than to regions fur ther west; somewhat more to Chihuahua and Sonora than to Durango and Sinaloa in the south; and Baja California, by reason not only of its geographic posi tion but of its historic importance, receives more attention than its rank in modern times alone would justify. These provinces are variously grouped at successive epochs as is required for clearness arid con venience of presentment; but of each it is the author's aim to portray in all desirable detail the earliest annals of discovery, exploration, conquest, and conversion; while later periods of routine development are not neglected, though treated on a different scale. Maps are introduced somewhat more plentifully than else where to show the advance of Spanish dominion north ward; and as usual a large amount of statistical, de- (v) vi PREFACE. scriptive, bibliographic, and explanator}^ matter is added to the references in foot-notes. The work con sists of two volumes, of which the first brings the ' O record down to the end of the eighteenth century. This territory has been treated on a general scale, as part of a great nation, in a preceding work of the series; but the plan requires a more minute treat ment of the northern regions ; and it is deemed better to add two volumes of provincial annals than to cor respondingly increase the bulk of such matter in a national HISTORY OP MEXICO. It is not, however, solely to meet the requirements of an arbitrary plan that the north receives more attention than the south. The history of the former is not only more interesting and important, but it has left records much more complete. And so nearly in parallel grooves ran the current of affairs in different Hispano- American com munities that southern provincial history, unrecorded for the most part, may in many phases be studied in directly yet with profit in that of the north. Even here it is not possible to form an uninterrupted chain of events in each province and for each period; nor is it desirable, for such a record would be bulky, weari some, and unprofitable an almost endless repetition of similar petty happenings under like conditions. But the i riter-provincial likeness noted, while it ex cuses the historian from following the thread of minor occurrences in all the provinces, also suggests the de sirability of such minute treatment in one of them at least, in order that the record of one may reflect that of the rest, just as northern history in a sense throws light upon the south. The suggestion is followed, but for this purpose a country still farther north is PREFACE. vii chosen, Upper California, for which original data are beyond all comparison most copious, and whose his tory will be extensively supplemented by local annals. Thus it is intended that the subdivisions of the his torical series shall not only be complete each in its own sphere, but that each shall be so connected with the others as to make of all a symmetrical whole. From the beginning these regions attracted special attention from the Spaniards. Thence came to eager ears never-ceasing reports of great cities, civilized peoples, inexhaustible wealth, interoceanic straits, and all the marvels of the Northern Mystery. Thither stretched the broadest field for exploration and ad venture; and here were found the richest deposits of natural treasure. It was a country of bitter warfare and bloody revolts; but there were tribes that made an enviable record for honor and good faith as well as for bravery; and even the conquerors in most parts marked their advance with atrocities somewhat less fiendish than in the south. This was preeminently the mission field of America, where the Jesuits and Franciscans made their grandest efforts with the best results, and where their system may be studied under the most favorable conditions. The deeds of explorer, soldier, and missionary advancing side by side against a receding frontier of barbarism furnish material for a story of rare interest. And the fascination of the topic to Anglo-Saxon readers is enhanced by the con tiguity of the region under consideration to the great northern republic, from which a new industrial and peaceful conquest is. being pushed southward on iron routes. That the international bonds may be drawn closer for mutual benefit without taint of unreasoning viii PREFACE. prejudice on one side, or of filibustering encroachment on the other, should be the desire of every good citi zen of the two republics. The author's resources for writing this part of the history are exceptionally ample, as is shown by the list of authorities prefixed to this volume. His Library contains all the standard missionary chronicles on which foundation the general structure must rest, together with a very complete collection of govern ment reports, Spanish and Mexican, and practically all the general and special works relating to the ter ritory that have been printed in any language. There is moreover hardly an epoch in the annals of any North Mexican State for which important information has not been drawn from original manuscripts never be fore consulted. The field is also in all essential respects a new one; for while certain limited periods in the annals of several parts of the territory have been worthily presented in print, there is no work extant in any language which includes the entire history of any one of the seven provinces; much less a compre hensive history of the whole country. That the con ception of the work and its introduction here as a connecting link between the national history of the south and local annals of the farther north will be approved is the hope and belief of the author. CONTENTS OF THIS VOLUME. CHAPTER I. CORTES OX THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. 1521-1530. PAGE Motive of North -western Discovery Cosmographical Theories of the Early Spaniards Secret of the Strait Ideas of Hernan Corte"s Extracts from his Letters Resume" of Events Following the Con quest Panuco and the Gulf Coast Rival Conquistadores The Chichimec Country Conquest of Michoacan Subjection of Colima and Chimalhuacan Expeditions of Alvarez Chico, Avalos, and Fran cisco Cortes Exploration to Tepic Northern Wonders A Town and Ship-yard at Zacatula Cortes on the Pacific Coast His Projects of South Sea Discovery His Letters to the Emperor Delays and Obstacles Down the Coast, Northward Identity of Vessels Lo- aisa, Guevara, and Saavedra First Voyage up the Coast to Colima New Vessels New Persecutions Discouragement 1 CHAPTER H. NUNO DE GUZMAN IN SINALOA. 1530-1531. Guzman's Plans and Motives A Grand Army Names of Officers Murder of a King March through Michoacan and Jalisco Crossing the Rio Grande Mayor Espana At Omitlan and Aztatlan Au thorities Advance to Chametla Map Quezala Province Piastla Ciguatan, Province of Women On to Culiacan Town of Colombo ' Local Explorations Samaniego Reaches the Petatlan Search for the Seven Cities Lopez Crosses the Sierra to Durango Founding of the Villa de San Miguel de Culiacan Site and Transfers List of Pobladores Guzman's Return to Jalisco Founding of Chametla Nueva Galicia Compostela the Capital Guzman Governor His Downfall > 26 fix) x CONTENTS. CHAPTEE III. CORTES, GUZMAN, AND CABEZA -DE VACA. 1532-1536. PAGE Voyage of Hurtado de Mendoza^Instructions and Mishaps Guzman's Version A New Fleet Voyage of Becerra and Grijalva Mutiny of Jimenez Discoveries Expedition of Hernan Cortes March through Nueva Galicia Colony at Santa Cruz Failure Events at San Miguel de Culiacan Vaguely Recorded Explorations Onate and Angulo Expedition of Diego de Guzman To the Rio Yaqui Indian Troubles at San Miguel Raids for Plunder and Slaves Spaniards Found in the North Narvaez in Florida Cabeza de Vaca in Texas Wanderings across the Continent Route Did not Reach New Mexico Arrival on the Yaqui and at San Miguel Subsequent Career 40 CHAPTEE IV. NIZA, ULLOA, CORONADO, AND ALARCON. 1537-1542. Governors Torre and Coronado in New Galicia Mendoza a Rival of Cortes Expedition of Marcos de Niza Discovery of Cfbola Fact and Fiction Cortes Again in the Field Rival Claims Voyage of Francisco de Ulloa California Castillo's Map Expedition of Fran cisco Vazquez de Coronado Through Sonora To Zuni, Moqui, Colo rado Canon, New Mexico, and Quivira Failure and Return Settle ment in Sonora San Ger<5nimo de los Corazones Melchor Diaz Crosses the Rio del Tizon His Death Indian Hostilities San Ger6nimo Abandoned Voyage of Hernando de Alarcon to Head of the Gulf Up the Buena Guia in Boats Cortes Gives Up the Struggle Pedro de Alvarado on the Coast Mixton War New Galicia to End of the Century 71 CHAPTEE V. ANNALS Off NUEVA VIZCAYA. 1554-1600. Zacatecas Mines Mercado's Silver Mountain Ibarra's Private Explora tions Mendoza and the Franciscans Ibarra as Governor Province of Nueva Vizcaya Expedition At San Juan Founding of Nombre de Dios and Durango To Copala or Topia Grand Reports Inde" and Santa Barbara Mines March to Sinaloa Villa of San Juan- Tour in the Far North City of Pagme San Sebastian de Cha- metla Death of Ibarra Progress in Durango List of Governors Annals of Sinaloa Murder of Friars Villa Abandoned Montoya's Expedition Bazan's Entrada San Felipe de Sinaloa Franciscan Convents Four Martyrs Arlegui's Chronicle Jesuit Annals In Sinaloa The Anuas Martyrdom of Father Tapia In Topia Tepe- huane Missions Santa Maria de Parras Exploration and Conquest of New Mexico 99 CONTEXTS. xi CHAPTER VI. VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. 1540-1600. PAGE Introductory Remarks Maritime Annals Voyage of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo and Bartolome" Ferrelo Death of Cabrillo Discovery of Alta California Results Ruy Lopez de Villalobos Discovers the Philippines Legaspi Crosses the Pacific Padre Andre's Urdaneta Opens the Northern Route Arellano's Trip from the "West The Manila Galleons Piratical Cruise of Francis Drake in the Mar del Sur Voyage of Francisco de Gali Cruise of Thomas Cavendish Capture of the Galleon 'Santa Ana' Apocryphal Expeditions to - Strait of Anian by Lorenzo Ferrer Maldonado and Juan de Fuca Cermeilon's Voyage The 'San Agustin' in San Francisco Bay Sebastian Vizcaino Explores the Gulf Unsuccessful Attempt to Settle California A Battle and a Romance Old Maps 130 CHAPTER VII. MARITIME EXPLORATIONS. 1601-1636. Vizcaino's Second Expedition Outer Peninsula Coast Up to Latitude 43 Later Projects California an Island Interest in the North west Vizcaino's Third Voyage Onate at the Head of the Gulf Cardona's Contract and Voyages Juan de Iturbe Pichilingues on the Coast Spilberg's Cruise Memorial of Padre Ascension Dutch Map Arellano's Claim Private Pearl Voyages Melchor de Le- zama Petition of Bastan Views of Salmeron Three Expeditions by Francisco de Ortega Third Colony at La Paz Original Records First of the Jesuits EsteVan Carbonel in the Gulf D'Avity's Map 153 CHAPTER VIII. EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. 1636-1769. Porter y Casanate and Botello y Serrano Memorials and Contracts Pretended Discoveries of Fonte Cestin de Canas Casanate's Efforts and Misfortunes Two Trips to California Piuadero's Pearl-fishing Expedition Lucenilla in the Gulf Royal Enthusiasm A New Contract Settlement of California by Otondo and the Jesuits Fourth Failure at La Paz Colony at San Bruno Buccaneers and Privateers Swan and Townley Dampier Woocles Rogers, Court ney, and Cooke Victory and Defeat Frondac's Voyage,- -Shel- vocke at the Cape Ansou's Voyage 177 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTEE IX. ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. 1600-1650. PAGE Coast Provinces Chametla, Copala, Culiacan, Sinaloa, Ostimuri, Sonora, and Pimeria Villas of San Sebastian and San Miguel San Juan de Mazatlan San Felipe de Sinaloa Commandants or Governors The Jesuit Annas Captain Hurdaide's Rule The Guazaves Defeat of the Suaquis Chiefs Hanged Expedition to Chinipa Sinaloas Put to Death Tehueco Campaign Ocoroni Revolt Conversions Fuerte de Montesclaros Spaniards Defeated by the Yaquis Treaty of Peace Bishop's Visit Tepahue Campaign Mayo Missions Con version of the Yaquis Chinipa Missions District of San Ignacio Distribution of Padres Death of Hurdaide Perea in Command Murder of Padres Pascual and Martinez Sonora Valley District of San Francisco Javier Division of Province Nueva Andalucia Jesuits versus Franciscans Padres and Statistics Ribas' Triumphs of the Faith Condition of the Missions 202 CHAPTER X. ANNALS OF SONOEA AND SINALOA. 1650-1700. Kulers in Sinaloa Coast Events Tajo Mine Spanish Settlements Missionary Annals in_ the South Minor Items, Statistics, and Names of Jesuits The Old Sonora Districts The Name Sonora Tables of 1658, 1678, and 1688 Troubles with the Bishop Chinipas District Labors of Salvatierra Revolts of 1690 and 1697 Map- Conquest of Pimeria Alta Father Kino and his Labors At Bac and Caborca, 1692-3 Jironza in Command Mange's Diaries Kino on the Gulf Coast, 1694 Boat-building Trip to the Gila, 1694 Revolt, Murder of Father Saeta, and Massacre of Pimas Kino in Mexico Second, Third, Fourth, and Fifth Entradas to the Rio Gila, 1697-1700 Vain Efforts to Obtain Missionaries for the Far North Missions of Dolores, San Ignacio, Caborca, Tubutama, and Cocuspera Military Operations in Apacheria Don Pablo's Revolt Pimas Defeat the Apaches Seris and Tepocas 237 CHAPTER XI. JESUIT OCCUPATION OF BAJA CALIFORNIA. 1697-1700. Discouragement from Past Failures Kino's Efforts Salvatierra En listed Brighter Prospects at Last Begging Alms Foundation of the Pious Fund License from the Viceroy Full Control in Jesuit Hands Venegas, Clavigero, and their Followers Salvatierra's Jour ney to the North Voyage across the Gulf Casting Lots At San Dionisio Founding of Loreto Conch6 Linguistic Studies The Por- CONTEXTS. xiii PAGE ridge Question Leads to Hostilities A Battle Coming of Piccolo Salvatierra's Letters A New Fort New Church for Christmas The New Year Movements of Vessels The Native Priests Make Trouble A Second Fight A New Ship Pearl-fishery A Miracle Expedition to Londo Vigge Biaundo Mendoza Succeeds Tortolero as Captain View of the Pacific Indian Policy New Mission of San Javier Misfortunes Loss of the ' San Fermin ' Salvatierra Visits the Main Vain Appeals to Government for Aid Distrust of the Jesuits Mendoza and the Garrison- Discharged Salvatierra Again Crosses the Gulf 276 CHAPTER XII. ANNALS OF NUEVA VIZCAYA. 1GOO-1G40. Government List of Rulers See of Guadiana Bishops Geographical Lines and Districts Progress in the South-east Superstition, Famine, and Righteousness at Parras Acaxee Missions of Topia Revolt The Sabaibo Bishop Conversion and Revolt of the Xixi- mes Governor's Campaigns The Tepehuane District Revolt of 1G1G-17 Massacre of Ten Missionaries and Two Hundred Span iards Peace Restored Humes and Hinas Vfrgen del Hachazo Chihuahua Districts Jesuit Beginnings in Tarahumara Baja Fran ciscan Establishments Report of 1622 Concho Mission Parral Founded Coahuila .... 305 CHAPTER XIII. NUEVA VIZCAYAN HISTORY. 1641-1700. List of Governors and Bishops Southern Districts A Tierra de Paz Topia Zapata's Visita Laguna Region Secularization and De struction Tepehuane Missions Tarahumara Map Franciscan Territory Toboso Raids Concho Revolt Murder of Friars Cerro Gordo Taralmmare Revolt Campaigns of Carrion, Barraza, and Fajardo Villa de Aguilar New Rebellion Martyrdom of Godinez and Basilio Spanish Reverses Peace Third Outbreak Extension of Jesuit Missions Franciscan Progress Casas Grandes Junta de los Rios El Paso del Norte Jesuits versus Franciscans Statistics of 1678 Presidios Border Warfare Tarahumare Revolt of 1690 Martyrdom of Padres Forouda and Sanchez 337 CHAPTER XIV. NEW MEXICO, COAHUILA, AND TEXAS. 1600-1700. Annals of New Mexico Prosperity, Revolt, and Reconquest Coahuila Entries of Salduendo and Larios The Earliest Missions Found- xiv CONTENTS. PAGE ing of Monclova Hulers Franciscans from Quere*taro and Jalisco Mission Changes Texas Resume" for Sixteenth Century Expedi tions from New Mexico Ofiate in Quivira The Jumanas Rio Nueces Captain Vaca Martin and Castillo Country of the Tejas Penalosa's Pretended Entrada Efforts of Lopez and Mendoza Father Paredes' Report North-eastern Geography The Name Texas French Projects Peiialosa Again La Salle's Expedition Fort St Louis Disastrous Fate of the Colony Pestilence and Murder Spanish Efforts Barroto's Voyages Leon's Expedition Second Entrada Father Masanet and his Friars Missions Founded Expedition of Governor Teran de los Rios Nueva Montana de Santander y Santillana Abandonment of Texas 373 CHAPTEE XV. ANNALS OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 1701-1717. Salvatierra's Return Coming of Ugarte Change of Captains Progress at San Javier Hard Times at Loreto Piccolo's Efforts in Mexico Padres Basaldua and Minutili Minor Explorations Revolt Basal- dua in Mexico Royal Promises No Results Pedro Ugarte Liv ing on Roots Salvatierra Called to Mexico And Made Provincial No Government Aid Troubles with the Garrison The Provincial in California Jaime Bravo Founding of San Juan Bautista de Ligui Santa Rosalia de Mulege" Explorations A Miracle Salva tierra Returns A Lady at Loreto Padre Mayorga Founding of San Jose" de Comondii Padre Peralta Ravages of Small-pox Mari time Disasters Drowning of Padre Guisi Arrival of Padre Gu- Illen Favors from the New Viceroy Piccolo's Tour Padre Tama- ral Salvatierra Summoned to Mexico His Death at Guadalajara The Jesuit Mission System The Pious Fund 407 CHAPTEE XVI. JESUIT ANNALS OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 1717-1750. Interest at Court A Junta in Mexico Bra vo's Efforts Ugarte Rector A Storm Founding of Purisima ' Triunfo de la Cruz ' Guillen's Exploration Founding of Pilar de la Paz Helen Founds Guada- lupe Ugarte's Voyage to Head of the Gulf Sistiaga on the West Coast Guillen Founds Dolores Napoli Founds Santiago Locusts and Epidemic Luyando Founds San Ignacio Death of Piccolo Visit of Echeverria Founding of San Jose" del Cabo Death of Ugarte Taraval Explores the North-west Founding of Santa Rosa Touching of the Manila Ship Revolt in the South Martyr- clom of Fathers Carranco and Tamaral Yaqui Reinforcements Governor Huidrobo's Campaign A Presidio at the Cape Reoccur CONTEXTS. xv PAGE pation of the Missions A Decade of Troubles Epidemic Death of Captain Este"van Lorenzo Changes in Padres Consag's Exploration of the Gulf Map Royal Orders No Results End of Venega's Record 435 CHAPTER XVII. LOWER CALIFORNIA JESUITS AND FRANCISCANS. 1750-1769. Revival of Industries Calumnies Meagre Records Consag on the Pacific Founding of Santa Gertrudis Rivera y Moncada Com mandant Coast Exploration Hurricane Venegas' Map Found ing of San Francisco de Borja Changes in Missionaries Link's Explorations Founding of Santa Maria Troubles in the South Demand for Women and Secularization Expulsion of the Jesuits Arrival of Governor Portola Works of Baegert and Ducrue Map Parting Scenes List of Jesuit Missionaries Coming of the Fran ciscans Observantes and Fernandinos Names of the Sixteen Distribution of the Friars A New System Coming of Visitador General Galvez Reforms Introduced Mission Changes Towns and Colonization Regulations Mining Trade Preparations for the Occupation of Alta California The Four Expeditions Secu larization of Santiago and San Josd Founding of San Fernando de Velicata The Old must Support the New 467 CHAPTER XYIII. SONORA AND SINALOA. 1701-1730. Kino's Labors in Pimeria Exploring Tour with Salvatierra Map Sixth Trip to the Gila and across the Colorado Last Tour in the North Final Efforts and Disappointments Death of Kino Explorations by Campos Ugarte on the Coast Moqui Projects Seris and Te- pocas Mission Decline Statistics Jesuits versus Settlers Polit ical and Military Affairs Rule of Saldana and Tuiion Sinaloa Provinces Conquest of Nayarit 492 CHAPTER XIX. ANNALS OF SONORA AND SINALOA. 1731-1751. Coast Provinces Detached from Nueva Vizcaya Huidrobo as Governor Revolt of Yaquis and Mayos A Decade in Pimeria Alta Keller and Sedelmair Bolas de Plata, or Arizonac Vildosola's Rule Letters and Quarrels Gallardo as Visitador General Proposed Re forms Parrilla Appointed Governor Presidio Changes Seri War Moqui Scheme Revived Expeditions to the Gila Sedelmair's Ex- xvi CONTENTS. PAGE plorations Royal Orders Salvador's Consultas Secularization, Penal Colony, Colonization Jesuit Catalogue of 1750 Pima Revolt Martyrdom of Rhuen and Tello Items on the Sinaloa Provinces. 520 CHAPTER XX. LAST OF THE JESUITS IN SONOfcA. 1752-1767. A War on Paper Jesuits versus Governor Investigations Disculpa- tion of the Missionaries Rule of Governors Arce and Mendoza War with the Seris Mendoza Killed Apache Warfare Raids of Savages and Soldiers Missions of Pimeria Alta in the Last Years No Progress Padres, New and Old Final Statistics Rule of Cuervo and Pineda From Bad to Worse Campaigns Recom mended Reforms Various Reports Captain Cancio and his Let ters Elizondo's Expedition Coming Resume 1 of Correspondence and Events A Period of Suspense Mission Statistics, 17GO-7 Expulsion of Jesuits List of Jesuits Who Served in Sinaloa and Sonora 548 CHAPTER XXI. .NUEVA VIZCAYA, OR DURANGO AND CHIHUAHUA. 1701-1767. Government and List of Rulers Presidios and Indian Warfare Rivera's Tour Berrotaran's Report Presidial Changes Mission . Annals Repartimientos The Jesuit College Secularization of the Durango Missions Statistics Expulsion of the Jesuits List of Mission aries The Franciscans Secularization Custody of Parral Mis sions at Junta de los Rios Ecclesiastical Affairs and List of Bishops Tamaron's Visita and Report Statistics of Population Local Items in the South and North San Felipe el Real de Chihua hua and Mines of Santa Eulalia 581 CHAPTER XXII. TEXAS, COAHUILA, AND NEW MEXICO. 1701-1800. A Glance at New Mexico Coahuila or Nueva Estremadura Government and Rulers General Progress and Statistics Local Items Chrono logical Record Military and Mission Affairs Texas, or Nuevas Filipinas Operations of St Denis Ramon's Expedition Missions Refounded Governor Alarcon Founding of Bt'jar and San An tonio French Invasion Expedition of Governor San Miguel de Aguayo Villa of San Fernando Reduction of Military Force CONTEXTS. xvii PAGE Quere"taro Friars Transfer their Missions French Boundary Ques tion Succession of Governors Apache Warfare Penitent Lipanes Troubles of the Friars Missions of San Javier Rabago's Ex cesses Contraband Trade San Saba Presidio and Mission Zeal of Conde de Regla A Massacre Parrilla j s Campaign Rule of Oconor and Ripperda Northern Establishments Abandoned Bucareli and Nacodoches Quare"taro Friars Retire Efforts of Mezieres Morfi's Work Local Affairs Condition of the Province Last Decades of the Century G02 CHAPTEK XXIII. NUEVA VIZCAYA, PROVINCIAS INTERNAS, INTENDENCIA OF DURANGO. j 1768-1800. Government Organization of Provincias Internas Caballero de Croix Neve, Rengel, and Ugarte in Command Viceregal Jurisdiction Division of the Provincias The East and West General Pedro de Nava Reunion and Independence Governors of Nueva Vizcaya Intendencia of Durango Rule of Intendentes and Subdelegados Indian Affairs Reglamento de Presidios Changes in Sites In structions of Galvez A New Policy Results See of Durango List of Bishops Division of the Diocese Controversies Bishop versus General Missions Under Franciscans and Secular Clergy Condition of the Establishments Local Items Reports of Guardian, Provincial, and Viceroy Annals of Chihuahua Annals of Durango Pestilence War on the Scorpions , 636 CHAPTEE XXIV. SONORA AND SINALOA. 17G8-1800. Elizondo's Military Expedition Nueva Andalucia Noticia Breve Original Correspondence Unsuccessful Movements on the Cerro Prieto Depredations of the Savages Arrival of Galvez Pardon Offered Revolt on the Rio Fuerte New Advance on the Rebel Seris Change of Policy Final Success of Negotiations The Coun try at Peace Discovery of Gold Mines New Presidio Regulations Mission Annals Secularization Franciscans of Quere"taro and Jalisco Fate of the Establishments Garce"s on the Gila Murder of President Gil Reyes' Report of 177*2 List of Governors Pro vincias Internas Arizpe the Capital Bishopric List of Bishops Apache Warfare Peace at Last More Revolt Destruction of Magdalena Anza's Expeditions to California The Colorado River Missions Transfer of Sonora Missions Custodia de San Carlos Arricivita's Chronicle Local Items, List of Padres, and Statistics . . 660 HIST. N. HEX. STAIES, VOL. I. 2 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXV. FRANCISCANS AND DOMINICANS IN THE PENINSULA. 1769-1774. * PAGE The Visitador's Plans for Loreto Departure and Report of Galvez Chappe d'Auteroche Governor Armona Gc*izalez and Toledo Epidemics Dissatisfaction Ramos Sent to Sonora News from Monterey Moreno in Command Basterra's Memorial New Friars Governor Barri A Bitter Feud Palou Appeals to Guardian and Viceroy The Dominican Claim Iriarte's Efforts Royal Orders Guardian and Vicar-general Amicable Agreement Franciscans Sur render the Peninsula Motives of the Two Orders More Trouble with Barri Arrival of the Dominicans Departure of the Fernan- dinos Palou's Final Preparations Troubles with President Mora Reglamento of Presidios Barri Succeeded by Felipe de Neve In structions Arrival 692 CHAPTER XXVI. ANNALS OF BAJA CALIFORN A. 1775-1800. Neve's Rule Reforms Troubles with Padres Rosario and Santo Do mingo Rivera y Moncada in Command Indian Troubles Domin ican Records San Vicente Small-pox Hidalgo President Neve's Reglamento Rivera's Death Custodias Threatened Fages Gov ernor Hard Times Arrillaga in Command Explorations San Mi guel Mission Reports Padre Sales' Noticias Governor Romeu President Gomez Santo Tomas New Friars San Pedro Martyr Borica Official Changes Arrillaga 's Tour Santa Catalina War with England President Belda A British Fleet Governor Arri llaga Financial Items List of Dominicans Local Affairs 714 CHAPTER XXVII. OCCUPATION OF ALTA CALIFORNIA. 1 709-1800. -Discovery and Coast Exploration Knowledge of California in 1769 Motives for the Conquest Portola's Expedition At San Diego : To Monterey and San Francisco by Land Founding of Missions Juni- pero Serra as President Results in 1773 Fages, Rivera, and Anza Disaster at San Diego San Francisco Mission and Presidio Governor Neve at Monterey Statistics for the First Decade Trouble on the Colorado Governor Fages Pueblos Lasuen as President La Perouse New Foundations A Decade of Prosperity Romeu, Arrillaga, and Borica Vancouver Yankee Craft Fears of Foreign Aggression End of the Century Elements of Progress . . 743 AUTHOEITIES QUOTED IN THE HISTORY OF THE NOETH MEXICAN STATES. Aa (Pieter van der), Naaukeurige Versameling. Leyden, 1707. 30 vols. Abert (J. W.), Report of his examination of New Mexico, 1S4G-7. Wash ington, 1848. Acosta (Josef), Historia Natural y Moral de las Yndias. Sevilla, 1530; De Natvra Novi Orbis. Salman ticse, 1589. 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MOTIVE OF NORTH-WESTERN DISCOVERY COSMOGRAPHICAL THEORIES OF THE EARLY SPANIARDS SECRET OF THE STRAIT IDEAS OF HERNAN CORTES EXTRACTS FROM HIS LETTERS RESUME OF EVENTS FOLLOW ING THE CONQUEST PANUCO AND THE GULF COAST RIVAL CONQUIS- TADORES THE CHICHIMEC COUNTRY CONQUEST OF MICHOACAN SUBJECTION OF COLIMA AND CHIMALHUACAN EXPEDITIONS OF ALVAREZ CHICO, A.VALOS, AND FRANCISCO CORTES EXPLORATION TO TfiPIC NORTHERN WONDERS A TOWN AND SHIP-YARD AT ZACATULA CORTES ON THE PACIFIC COAST His PROJECTS OF SOUTH SEA DISCOVERY His LETTERS TO THE EMPEROR DELAYS AND OBSTACLES DOWN THE COAST, NORTHWARD IDENTITY OF VESSELS LOAISA, GUEVARA, AND SAAVLDRA FIRST VOYAGE UP THE COAST TO COLIMA NEW VESSELS NEW PERSECUTIONS DISCOURAGEMENT. FROM the day when Mexico Tenochtitlan submitted to the arms of Spain, an idea often uppermost in the mind of the conqueror, Herrian Cortes, and hardly less prominent in the minds of his companions and those who succeeded him in power, was that of west ern and north-western discovery, the exploration of the South Sea with its coasts and islands, and the finding of a northern passage by water from the Atlantic to the Pacific. The realization of this idea, or the progress of more than three centuries toward its realization, involving the exploration by land and VOL. I. 1 2 CORTES ON THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. water, the conquest and conversion, the settlement and permanent occupation by Europeans of the great north-west, is the subject to which the present and later subdivisions of this history are devoted. In order to comprehend clearly, and consistently to ac count for the idee fixe alluded to, we have to glance briefly at the geographical notions prevalent at the time respecting the regions which have been finally named America. Thus may be readily dispelled the shade of mystery which, in the popular mind at least, has ever obscured this matter. When Columbus undertook his grand enterprise, the learned few, cosmographers, navigators, and merchants engaged in foreign trade, had a vaguely correct knowl edge of the Asiatic coast, of India, China, and even of Japan. This knowledge was derived from over land trips of traders and priests, directed to the east in quest of merchandise and proselytes, especially from the travels of Polo and Mandeville. The Asi atic coast was laid down on maps of the time, and that with a degree of accuracy in its general features. The Portuguese were straining every nerve to reach India by water by way of Cape Good Hope, a project in which they succeeded a little later. The spherical form of the earth was understood; the feasibility of reaching Asia by sailing westward was maintained by some; Columbus became an enthusiastic believer in the theory, and resolved to apply a practical test. By reason of imperfect methods of computing longitude, Columbus, like others of his time, greatly underesti mated the distance across the Atlantic to Asia; but he started, sailed about as far as he had expected to sail, and found as he had anticipated a coast trending south-westward in fact, as he believed and as all of his time and of much later times believed, he reached the Asiatic coast. The discovery of land where all knew before that land existed excited little surprise or enthusiasm; it was the finding of a new route to that land that gave the admiral his earlier fame, the SECRET OF THE STRAIT. 3 only fame lie had during his lifetime. He died with out a suspicion that he had done more than to make known a new route to Asia, The first discovery of lands before unknown was in what is now known as South America, at a point much farther east than could be made to agree with the trend of the Asiatic coast as laid down in the maps and described by travellers. Had Australia been included in the old knowledge there would have been perhaps no surprise, no thought of a new dis-- covery even yet; as it was, navigators had now a new aim for exploration, in ascertaining the extent of the newly discovered island, an aim which resulted in the expedition of Magellan into the Pacific in 1520. This new aim, however, by no means diverted attention from the primary design, that of coasting Asia south- westward, sailing of course between the main and the new-found island, and finally arriving at India. The firm belief on the part of Columbus, and of those who followed him, that they had reached the Asiatic coast, and had only to follow that coast to reach India and the Spice Islands,, together with their idea and a very natural idea it was that in passing down the coast they must sail through the strait, or channel, between the island and the main, furnishes us a key to all that is mysterious in the subsequent progress of north-western exploration, as well as to the "secret of the strait," which the Spaniards so zealously sought to penetrate. 1 The effort to solve the mystery was not at first nor for many years a search for a passage through a new continent to the South Sea, but a passage between new lands and the well known Asi- 1 1 am aware that there is nothing original in the statement that Columbus thought he had arrived in Asia. Most writers state the fact; but few if any in subsequent speculations speak as if they really believe it, or fully under stand how elowly this idea of Columbus was modified, how closely it was connected with the * secret of the strait,' how loath were navigators to give up the views of the ancient cosmographers, how slightly the idea of Columbus had been modified in the time of Cortes, or how many years passed before the idea was altogether abandoned. For more details, with copies of old maps, see Hist. Cent. Am., i. chap, i., Summary of Voyages, this series. 4 CO&TES ON THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. atic main. This ignis fatuus of navigators did not originate in wild cosmographic theories, 2 but in natu ral conclusions from what were deemed accurate reports of prior discoveries. On making the attempt, however, from both direc tions, to sail down the China coast, no passage was found, but only land instead of a strait an isthmus, which was crossed by Vasco Nunez de Balboa in 1513. This unexpected result caused not a little confusion in cosmograpliical reckonings; but it left to thinking men, acquainted with the progress of maritime discovery, only three theories or reasonable conjectures. Charts of this and subsequent periods 3 agree with one or another of these conjectures, which are the following: first, that the passage actually existed in the region between Cuba and South America, but being narrow had escaped the attention of navigators; second, that the newly found regions were all a south-eastern pro jection of the Asiatic continent, not separated from the main by any body of water; and third, that the passage was to be found north of the explored regions, those regions all belonging to a hitherto unknown continent, distinct, but not distant, from Asia. Such were the geographical theories .prevalent in 1521 when Cortes first had leisure to give his attention to new discoveries; but the tendency of the times was strongly in favor of the third, or that of a northern passage. Cortes deemed it yet possible that the strait which was to admit his Majesty's vessels to the Indian Spice Islands might be found in the south. This is shown by his expeditions in that direction, either car- 2 'European scholars could not believe, that Nature had worked on a plan so repugnant, apparently, to the interests of humanity, as to interpose, through the whole length of .the great continent, such a barrier to communication between the adjacent waters.' Prcscott's Hist. Conq. Hex., iii. 272. These ideas if understood literally must be applied to a period considerably later than that of CorteV earlier efforts at north-western-exploration. 3 Of course I refer to official charts and to such as show some ruling idea on the part of the maker. I made no attempt to account for the vagaries of the many compilers who drew liberally on their imagination for geographical data, whenever needed to promote the sale of their maps. Copies of many of the earlier charts are given elsewhere in my work. GEOGRAPHICAL CONCLUSIONS. 5 ried out or projected, and especially by his instructions to Cristobal de Olid in the Honduras expedition. Still his faith in a southern strait was slight and of short duration. The natives of Andhuac had an accurate knowledge of the South Sea and the trend of the Pacific coast, a knowledge which Cortes was not long in acquiring and verifying through the agency of Spanish scouts. The result established the following facts : That if Mexico was a part of the Asiatic conti nent, the point where the coast turned westward must be sought not in the south just above Nicaragua, the > northern limit of Espinosa's voyage in 1819, but north of the latitude of Anahuac; that the a"clual discovery of a southern strait in the region of Darien would still leave a south-eastern projection of Asia wholly irrec oncilable with the old authorities, whose general accuracy men were loath to call in question; and finally that only the finding of a passage in the north could establish the correctness of the old maps and narra tives. 4 4 In thus making Cortes the representative of the cosmographical ideas of his time there may be an apparent exaggeration, but I believe it is at least not calculated to mislead. The view I have given of the tendency of the period is sustained by the facts in the case, and Cortes was a shrewd observer and quick to take practical advantage of the reasonings of his contemporaries, even if his mind did not grasp in logical sequence all the conclusions to be drawn from the results of maritime discovery since the day of Columbus. The following literal translations from his letter to Charles V. are conclusive as to his ideas on the subject: 'I hold these ships (those built at Zacatula) of more importance than I can express, for I am sure that with them, by the will of Our Lord, I shall be the cause that your Csesarean Majesty be in. these regions ruler over more kingdoms and seigneuries than are yet known in our nation; and I believe that when I have accomplished this your Majesty will have nothing more to do to become monarch of the world.' ' I saw that nothing more remained for me to do but to learn the secret of the coast which is yet to be explored between the Bio Panuco and Florida . . . and thence the coast of the said Florida northward to Bacallaos (Newfound land); for it is deemed certain that on that coast there is a strait which passes to the South Sea; and if it should be found, according to a certain map which I have of the region of the archipelago discovered by Magellan by order of your Highness, it seems that it would come out very near there; and if it should please God that the said strait be found there, the voyage from the spice region to your kingdom would be very easy and very short, so much so that it would be less by two thirds than by the route now followed, and that without any risk to the vessels coming and going, because they would always come and go through your own dominions, so that in any case of necessity they could be repaired without danger wherever they might wish to enter port.' ' I have determined to send three caravels and two brigantines on this 6 CORTES ON THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. Thus we account for the efforts of Cortes and his companions constantly directed toward the north west; for the never-failing reports of natives respect ing ever receding marvels in that direction, for there can be but little doubt that the wish of the Spaniards was father to the tales of the Indians; the famous Amazon isles, golden mountains, bearded white men, broad rivers, and populous cities; the island of Califor nia "on the right hand of the Indies;" the fabled strait of Anian through which fictitious voyagers and ad venturers sailed; the more modern search for a north west passage through the frozen zone; and not improb ably even the traditions of an ancient migration of the native races from the far north. The conclusion toward which the reasonings of Cortes tended proved a correct one; but the illustrious conquistador and his contemporaries were far from dreaming how very far away, and in how cold a region, the long-sought strait would at last be found. Having landed on the coast of Yera Cruz in April 1519, the Spaniards received the surrender of the Aztec capital in August 1521. Before the latter date search (this refers particularly to the search in the North Sea via Florida) . . . and to add this service to the others I have done, because I deem it the great est, if, as I say, the strait be found; and if it be not found, it is not possible that there should not be discovered very large and rich lands where your Ccesareaii Majesty may be much served, and the kingdoms and seigneuries of your royal crown be greatly extended . . . May it please Our Lord that the armada accomplish the object for which it is prepared, which is to discover the strait, because that would be best; and in this I have strong faith, since hi the royal good fortune of your Majesty nothing can be hid. . .Also I intend to send the ships which I have built on the South Sea, and which, if the Lord wills, will sail at the end of July 1525 up the coast' the writer says por la costa abajo, literally ' down the coast;' but by this expression he doubtless means what we now call ' up the coast, ' that is north-westward. See on this point note at end of this chapter 'in search of the said strait; because if it exists, it cannot be hidden to these in the South Sea or to those in the North Sea; since the former in the South (Sea) will follow the coast until they find the strait or join the land with that discovered by Magalhaens (India); and the others in the North (Sea) as I have said, until they join it to the Bacallaos. Thus on the one side or the other the secret will" not fail to be revealed.' He goes on to assure the emperor that his own personal interests call him to the rich provinces of the south, but he is willing to sacrifice his interests to those of the crown. Cortts, Cartas (letter of Oct. 15, 1524), 307-8, 314-15. CONQUEST OF MEXICO. 7 Cortes had already brought into subjection most of the towns in the vicinity of the lakes; had somewhat extended his conquests southward toward the borders of the Miztec and Zapotec realms; and had made him self master of nearly all the region stretching east\vard from the central plateau to the gulf coast. Many of the native chieftains had been subdued only by deeds of valor on hard-fought battle-fields; others, moved by admiration for Spanish prowess, by terror of Spanish guns and horses, by supernatural warnings, and by a bitter hatred toward the tyrants of Andhuac, had voluntarily submitted to the new-comers, whom they looked upon at first as deliverers. During the years immediately following the fall of Mexico voluntary submission was the rule, armed resistance the excep tion. Such resistance was met for the most part only beyond the limits of the region permanently subjected in aboriginal times to the allied monarchs of Mexico, Tezcuco, and Tlacopan; or, if met nearer, it was only in the form of revolt in provinces that had at first submitted but were driven by oppression to a desper ate though vain effort to retrieve their error and O regain their freedom. Cortes was kept busy in preparations for building a magnificent Spanish city on the site of the demolished Tenochtitlan ; in apportioning the conquered villages as encomiendas to his associates; in establishing a form of local government adapted to the needs of the court, and especially the treasury, of Spain, as well as of the new Spanish subjects; in despatching warlike expeditions to quell revolt in the provinces or to ex tend his power over gentile tribes yet unsubdued; and finally in watching the movements and striving to baffle the schemes of his foes both in Mexico and at the court of Charles. In the first impulse of thankfulness for large domains, or perhaps of a politic craving for a still further extension of his trans atlantic realms, the emperor made Cortes governor, captain-general, and chief-justice of New Spain, with 8 CORTES ON THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. full powers to administer the government arid press forward free from trammels in his ambitious schemes of conquest. This was in October 1522. By the end of the year Tehuantepec had been conquered by Pedro cle Alvarado; the South Sea had been discovered and formal possession of it taken at several points; active preparations had been set on foot for the building of a fleet on the Pacific for the further exploration of its mysteries; and a little later myriads of swarthy workmen under the guidance of European architects were restoring to its original splendor the capital of the Montezumas. Soon the whole country from the isthmus of Tehuantepec to Ptinuco and Colirna owned allegiance to the conquerors; several Spanish settle ments were founded in different parts of the conquered territory; colonization was encouraged by liberal grants of land and of native servants under the pre vailing system of repartimientos; missionaries were sent for, to convert and instruct the natives; the native faith was uprooted and the ancient teocallis were demolished; the aborigines were forced to wear out their bodies in servitude, but they were rapidly learning just how much it would profit them, having lost the whole world, to save their own souls. In 1523 Alvarado was sent again southward to cross the isthmus and conquer Guatemala. Early in 1524 Olid was despatched by water to invade Hon duras, and twelve Franciscan friars arrived to begin their holy work of conversion and instruction. In October of the same year Cortes was forced by Olid's treachery to leave temporarily his northern schemes, and go in person to Central America, not return ing until the middle of 1526. His departure from Mexico was the occasion of serious complications in the colonial government. The royal officers left by him in charge were either unfaithful to their trusts or failed to agree among themselves. Other officers sent from the south to heal differences committed still greater irregularities, abused their usurped power, and THE CONQUEROR'S TROUBLES. 9 finally gave out the report that the captain-general was dead. Meanwhile his foes at court had renewed their hos tile efforts and had filled the mind of Charles with fears that Cortes would go so far in his ambitious schemes as to deny allegiance and set up an independ ent sovereignty. The remedy usual in such cases was resorted to; an investigating commissioner, orjuez de residcncia, was sent to supersede the governor and bring him to trial on charges preferred. The arrival of this commissioner was in July 1526, just after the- governor's return from Honduras. The position had been given to Luis Ponce de Leon, reputed to be a just man and an impartial judge; but by his death and that of his successor, the treasurer, Alonso de Estrada, a bitter personal enemy to Cortes, came into power; and the period that followed during 1526 and 1527 was one of continual mortification, annoyance, and insult to the conqueror and his friends. His enemies having gained control in Mexico, worked the more effectually at court; but early in 1528 Cortes went in person to Spain, just in time to escape being forcibly sent or treacherously enticed across the Atlantic by the royal audiencia appointed to supersede Estrada. While his trial was in progress at Mexico during his absence, at court Cortes received marked honors from the emperor. It was deemed expedient to con tinue the audiencia in their civil power; but in all else the feted conquistador was triumphant. In July 1529 he was made marques del Valle de Oajaca, with large grants of land and vassals; during the same month he was appointed captain -general of New Spain and of the South Sea, with full powers to continue his dis coveries and to rule over such lands as he might explore and colonize ; later he was granted in full pro prietorship one twelfth of all his new discoveries. He returned to the New World in July 1530, to the great joy of the natives, whose friend and protector he had been so far as practicable under the system to 10 COKTES ON THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. which he was subjected, and who now after several years of oppression under royal officers and audiencia, more fully than before realized the good will of the chieftain who had forced upon them Spanish sover eignty. But the return of Cortds was productive of but little good to himself, to the country, or to his friends, whether natives or Spaniards. In view of the services he had rendered he was little disposed to brook interference or opposition from a tribunal with which he soon became involved in quarrels respecting his powers, titles, property, and vassals. He soon left the capital in disgust to live in retirement at Cuer- navaca until ready to resume his operations in the South Sea, of which more hereafter. This brief sketch will serve to recall a few needed dates, and thus introduce the topic matter of this chapter, itself introductory to the general subject of north -western exploration and settlement. Full de tails are before the reader in an earlier volume of this history. 5 It is well, however, before following Cortes to the Pacific to review somewhat more fully, but still in the briefest resume, the course of events in the coun tries immediately north and west of Mexico during the years following the conquest. These events occurred for the most part without the territorial limits of this volume, that is in the provinces that now make up the states of "Vera Cruz, Tamaulipas, San Luis, Queretaro, Guanajuato, Aguas Calientes, Michoacan, Colima, and Jalisco; but they were never theless the beginning of the north-western movement, and have a bearing on what is to follow. Ponce de Leon in 1512 sought the ' fountain of youth' in Birnini, or Florida, whither he returned to die nine years later. Grijalva from the south reached Panuco in 1518. The intermediate gulf coast was explored in 1519-20, and the following years by Pineda 6 See Hist. Mex., vol. i. this series. ON THE GULF SHORES. 11 and Narvaez for Garay under the patronage of the conqueror's foes, Velazquez in Cuba and Fonseca in Spain. A leading incentive was the erroneous idea that the Tarn pi co region afforded a good harbor. Cortes shared this belief and was able to defeat Garay 's projects by obtaining the voluntary submission of the Paiiuco chieftains; and when the latter were driven to revolt by the outrages of his foe, he marched to subdue the province by force of arms, founding the REGION NORTH AND WEST OF MEXICO. town of San Estevan del Puerto in 1522. Garay came in person with a governor's commission in 1523; and though he accomplished nothing, his men provoked a second rising in which some two hundred and fifty Spaniards were slain. Sandoval restored peace by a bloody campaign, and took terrible vengeance by burning and hanging hundreds of leading Huastecs in 1524. Next year the province under name of Vic toria Garayana was separated from the jurisdiction of Mexico, but no actual change was effected till 1528. Then came Panfilo de Narvaez and Nuno de Guzman, of the clique so bitterly hostile to Cortes, each with a governor's commission. Narvaez was to rule Las Palmas stretching northward from Panuco. He landed on the west coast of Florida with a large 12 CORTES ON THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. force, and attempted to coast the gulf by land and water. The whole company perished miserably one by one, except four, of whose wanderings across the continent I shall have much to say elsewhere in this volume. 6 Guzman was ruler of Panuco, the other name not surviving, and his administration of about six months at San Estevan was marked, after profit less attempts to make conquests and find riches in the territory of Narvaez, by never ending raids for slaves, by which the province was depopulated. He was always in trouble, with authorities of adjoining provinces invaded, with his Spanish subjects whose encomienclas were destroyed by his policy, or with the Huastec chieftains now nearly helpless; but he was a shrewd lawyer, and so skilfully did he parry the con stant complaints at court that instead of being dis missed from office and hanged, as he richly deserved, he was sent to Mexico, still retaining his governorship as president of the audiencia. We shall soon enougli meet him again. Before 1530 there was no Spanish settlement on the northern gulf coast except at San Estevan, or Panuco. To the west and inland was the territory coni- g rising the present states of Queretaro, Guanajuato, an Lufs, and Aguas Calientes; the home of the wild Chichimecs, never permanently subjected to the Aztecs. The Chichimec country proper extended indefinitely northward, as elsewhere noted, but the name was applied commonly to this region as the home of the only Chichimecs with whom the Aztecs or earliest Spaniards came in contact. Richer prov inces and pueblos, more accessible for purposes of plunder and conversion, at first called the Spaniards in other directions. Converted native chieftains, however, furnished with ammunition, material and spiritual gunpowder and crucifixes set forth to christianize their rude brethren on several occasions between 1521 and 1525. In 1526 Cortes was niedi- 6 See chapter iii. of this volume. CHICHIMEC COUNTRY AND MICHOACAN. 13 tating an expedition against the Chichimecs who, if they showed no fitness for civilization, were to be made slaves. Two Otomi chiefs, baptized as Fernando de Tapia and Nicolas Montaiiez de San Luis, were leaders of proselyte armies which effected the conquest of Queretaro and parts of Guanajuato. The former founded a pueblo at Acambaro in 1526; and in 1530 one or both won a marvellous victory near the spot where the town of Queretaro was founded, probably in 1531. About this time it is reported that Lope de Mendoza, left in command at Panuco, made an expe dition into the interior to San Luis Potosi, and as some say to Zacatecas. Records are vague, but the subject is not an important one in this connection. The region attracted little notice until about 1548, when rich mines were found in Guanajuato. Michoac^b, the land of the civilized Tarascos, was a province that early fixed the invaders' attention. It is said that a messenger sent thither in 1521 was O never heard of again; but he was followed by one Parrillas, with a few comrades, who reached Tzin- tzuntzan, the capital, returning with glowing reports of western wealth, specimens of which were brought by native envoys back to Mexico. Next Montano and a larger party, generously provided with trinket gifts, were received at Tzintzuntzan with great cere mony and some caution, bringing to Cortes precious gifts with new stores of information, and accompanied on their return by eight Tarascan nobles. Later the king's brother visited Mexico with much pomp and treasure to see for himself the power and magnificence of the newly arrived children of the sun. And then King Tangaxoan came in person to offer his allegiance to the Spanish sovereign, promising to open his king dom and extend his protection to Spanish colonists. Accordingly Olid was sent with a large force to inves tigate the country's resources, and to found a settle ment. All this was before the end of 1522. He met with no resistance, save such as was provoked at 14 COHTfiS ON THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. Tangimaroa by the actions of his men; but the out rages were continued at the capital, where temples were burned, private dwellings plundered, and the adjoining region raided in the search for treasure. The Spaniards quarrelled among themselves when Olid tried to stop the plundering; and when no more treasure could be found they became discontented and uncontrollable, so that the settlement was abandoned by order of Corte's. But the occupation was soon resumed; the timid native authorities were reassured; Franciscan friars began their work; and from 1524 Michoacan never faltered in allegiance to Spain, though the Tarascan nobles and people secured noth ing but oppression in return for their submission and good faith. In connection with Olid's expedition to Michoacan in 1522, a force sent to Zacatula turned aside on the way to conquer Colima, where great riches were said to be. Part of this force under Alvarez Chico was defeated by the natives; but another division under Avalos, forming an alliance with disaffected chiefs, extended this raid through the region just north of the modern Colima line, known for many years as the Avalos province. Next Olid entered the province and defeated in a hard-fought battle the ruler and his allies; a town of Coliman was founded; and Avalos was left in charge of the colony. When many of the settlers had deserted, the natives revolted, but San- doval was sent to subdue them, and did his work so effectually that the province thereafter remained sub missive. This was before the end of 1523. In 1524 Francisco Cortes, a kinsman of Don Hernan, and alcalde mayor of Colima, made an entrad-a, OT incur sion, to the northern regions of Chimalhuacan, corre sponding to western Jalisco. Most of the towns submitted without resistance; but at Tetitlan and at several other points battles were fought. The north- . ern limit was the town of Jalisco, near Tepic. Gold was not found in large quantities, but of course was FRANCISCO CORTES IN JALISCO. 15 reported plentiful toward the north. During Don Francisco's absence Avalos also advanced northward to the region round the modern Guadalajara. Many of the northern pueblos were distributed as encomi- endas at this time, but it does not appear that either encomenderos or garrisons were left in the country. Don Francisco's return was along the coast, and the Yalle de Banderas was named from the little flags attached by the natives to their bows. Not^ only did the Spaniards hear marvellous reports of northern wealth, but on the coast south of Banderas they found in the dress and actions of the natives traces of Catholic influence, and heard of a ' wooden house' from over the sea that had been stranded on the rocks many years ago. Fifty persons from the wreck taught the natives many things, but were killed when they became overbearing. Writers have in dulged in speculations on the origin of this tale, won dering if the strangers were Englishmen who came through the strait of Ariian, or if they belonged to some Catholic nation. After exhausting conjecture respecting probable error or falsehood on the part of natives or Spaniards, the credulous reader is still at liberty to believe that the wreck on the Jalisco coast of a Portuguese craft from India before 1524 is not quite impossible. I now come to the actual operations of Cortes on the Pacific coast between 1521 and 1530, a series of failures and bitter disappointments, though followed by partial success in later years. The aim of his efforts in this direction, his grand scheme of sailing north and then west, and finally south until he should reach India discovering in the course of this navigation the " secret of the strait," or proving all to be one continent, and in any event making rich additions to his Majesty's domain has been clearly set forth at the beginning of this chapter; it only remains to pre- - 16 CORTES ON THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. sent the record of the efforts made to carrj r out his aim. 7 In his third letter to Charles V., written May 15, 1522, Cortes relates all that had transpired up to that date respecting South Sea discovery. Through friendly natives, before the final surrender of Mexico, he had heard of that sea; and before the date of his letter had sent to Spain certain petitions touching the matter. 8 The first Tarascan messengers who came 9 were closely questioned on this point and requested to take back with them two Spaniards to visit the coast from Michoacan. They stated that a province lying between their own and the sea was hostile, and it was therefore impracticable at the time to reach the Pacific; nevertheless the two Spaniards did accom pany them to Michoacan at least. Learning by his inquiries that the coast was twelve or fourteen days 7 journey distant according to the direction taken, Cor tes was glad, because, as he says, " it seemed to me that in discovering it I should do your Majesty a very great service, especially as all who have experience and knowledge in the navigation of the Indies have held it certain that with the finding of the South Sea in these parts, there must also be found rich islands, with gold and pearls and precious stones, and many other secrets and marvellous things; and this has been affirmed and is still affirmed by men of letters and learned in the -science of cosmography." He conse- 7 The best, and in fact almost the only authority for this record, is the let ters of Cortds himself, which, when carefully examined, are tolerably complete and satisfactory on the subject. Later writers have presented but versions always incomplete and often incorrect of that given by the conquistador. Some of them wrote without having all the letters before them; others used carelessly those that they had; no one so far as I know has added anything from trustworthy sources. 8 ' Antes de agora teniendo alguna noticia de la dicha mar, yo aviso" d los que tienen mi poder de ciertas cosas que se habian de suplicar a V. M. para la mejor y mas breve cxpedicion del dicho descubrimiento . . .aquel aviso mio no s6 si se habra rccibido, porque* fu<5 por diversas vias.' Cartas, 1GO. 'Tenia noticia de aquella Mar de tiempo de Motec9uma.' Gomara, Crdnica, in Bar da, Hist. Prtm., ii. 154. 9 With Parrillas or Montano, probably the latter, and in any case shortly after August 1521. DISCOVERY OF THE PACIFIC. 17 quently sent four Spaniards, " two by certain provinces and other two by others," accompanied by a few friendly Indians, with instructions not to stop until they reached the sea, and once there to take possession in the name of Spain. One party went one hundred and thirty leagues through many and rich provinces, took possession of the ocean by setting up crosses on its shores, and returned with samples of gold from the region traversed and a few natives from the coast. The other party went- farther, one hundred and fifty leagues according to their report, and were absent a~ little longer; but they also reached the coast and brought back natives. The visitors from both direc tions were kindly treated and sent back muy contentos to their homes. All this occurred before the end of October 1521, at which time Code's sent out an expe dition 10 which, within a month or two, subjected a province of Oajaca, but not on the coast. For a time following this expedition Cortes was busied in selecting a site and preparing to rebuild the city of Mexico; but in the mean time the lord of Tehuantepec, on the South Sea, "where the two Spaniards had discovered it," sent chieftains as am bassadors with gifts and an offer of allegiance to Spain. About this time also the two Spaniards who had been sent to Michoacan returned accompanied by King Caltzontzm's brother. It is nowhere stated that these two reached the coast, and it is not prob able that they were identical with either of the two parties already mentioned as having taken possession of the South Sea. These events took place before the end of 1521, because they were followed as Cor tes tells us by the transactions with Cristobal de Tapia, who arrived in December. In January 1522 Pedro de Alvarado started south ward, added the force already in Oajaca to that which he took from Mexico, and on March 4th wrote that 10 'Acabados de despachar aquellos Espaiioles que vinieron de descubrir la mar del sur ' he sent the expedition south on Oct. 31st. HIST. N. MEX. STAIES. VOL. I. 2 13 CORTES ON THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. he had occupied Tututepec on the coast, 11 pacified the province, and taken formal possession of the southern ocean. Whatever else had been accomplished before May 15, 1522, is stated by Cortds in his letter of that date as follows: "I have provided with much diligence that in one of the three places where I have discovered the sea, 12 there shall be built two caravels of medium size and two brigantines, the former for discovery and the latter for coasting, and with this view I have sent under a competent person forty Span iards, including master-builders, carpenters, smiths, and marines. I have also provided the villa with all articles needed for said ships; and with all possible haste the vessels will be completed and launched; which accomplished, your Majesty may believe it will be the greatest thing since the Indies were discovered." In an introductory note of the same date he repeats the substance of what I have quoted respecting the importance of this discovery and the building of the vessels "near the coast ninety leagues from here;" and adds that he has already a settlement of two hundred and fifty Spaniards on the coast, including fifty cavalry. So far Cortes' own narrative. The additions or variations by later writers require but brief notice which may be given in a note. 13 11 About midway between Acapulco and Tehnantepec. 12 That is at Zacatula. - The other two points referred to were Tehnantepec and Tututepec. ls Carta*, 1G9, 258-69. Also same letter (3d) in the editions of Barcia, Lorenzana, etc. According to Cortes, Residencies, ii. 118-19, Juan de Umbria was commander of one of the South Sea parties. Herrera, dec. iii. lib. iii. cap. xvii. , says that Cortes sent Francisco Cliico with three Spaniards and some Indians to explore 'all the southern coast,' and seek a fitting place for ship-building. These went to Tehuantepec, to Zacatula, and to other pueblos. This agrees well enough with Cortds, although Herrera seems to imply that the four went together, visiting Tehuantepec and Zacatula. Navarrete, Sutil y Hvx. Viage, introd. vii.-x., follows Herrera, implying, however, still more clearly that all the four went together in one party. This is not probable, for it directly contradicts CorteV statement that the parties took separate routes and that the sea had been discovered in two places only; besides the expedition against Tututepec was undertaken at the request of the lord of Tehuantepec who complained of hostilities on the part of those of Tututepec, whose cause of offence was that the Spaniards had been allowed to reach the coast Therefore it is unlikely that the four Spaniards had traversed the whole coast from Tehuautepec to Zacatula or vice versa, passing directly SHIP-YARD AT ZACATULA. 19 It is certainly remarkable that we have no further details respecting the establishment of a settlement of two hundred and fifty Spaniards at Zacatula noth ing beyond the bare statement that such a villa had been founded before May 15, 1522; yet it is not likely that there is any error, except perhaps an exaggera tion of the force, since the reenforcement on the abandonment of Tzintzuntzan could hardly have ar rived so early; for as we have seen the military expe dition had not yet been sent by way of Michoacan to. the coast, and it is expressly stated that that expedi tion was intended not for the foundation, but the pro tection of Zacatula. It appears that Juan Rodriguez Villafuerte, the commander, had first been sent with some forty mechanics to found a settlement and begin the work of ship-building, many native workmen, chiefly Tescucans, coming a little later; and large numbers of carriers being employed to bring material from Vera Cruz and Mexico. With the town except as a ship-building station we are not concerned here. 14 Writing October 15, 1524, just before starting for Honduras, Cortes reports what progress had at that date been made in his South Sea enterprise. He through the hostile province of Tututepec. Beaumont, Cr6n. Mich., iii. 155-7, and a writer in the Dice. Univ. , viii. 29, give the same version, the latter adding that in consequence of this expedition Acapulco was discovered by Gil Gonzalez Davila in 1521! Herrera in another place, dec. ii. lib. ix. cap. i., gives the name of Gonzalez de Umbria to the man who first brought samples of gold to Cortes from Zacatula. Ilcrrera and Navarrete, ubi supra, also speak of a party, not mentioned by Cortes, which was sent via Jalisco but was never heard of. The reference is probably to the doubtful expedition of Villadiego sent to Michoacan before that of Parrillas. The same authors state further that Guillen de Loa, Cas tillo, and Roman Lopez, with two others, passed through the country of the Zapotecs and Chiapas to Soconusco, and back by water to Tehuantepec. It is not unlikely that such a trip was made, but if so it must have been several years later than is implied by these writers. Prescott, Conq. Afex., iii. 237, erroneously states that one of the two first detachments sent to the coast reached it through Michoacan, and continues without any authority that I know of, 'on their return they visited some of the rich districts towards the north since celebrated for their mineral treasures, and brought back samples of gold and California pearls' ! 11 See Hist. Mcx., ii. 54 et seq. It appears that Simon de Cuenca was associated with Villafuerte in the command; and according to some authori ties the latter did not come until the time of Olid's expedition. The Indiana were somewhat insubordinate on several occasions. 20 CORTES ON THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. speaks of the expedition of Olid to Michoacan in the middle of 1522; the subsequent sending of a part of Olid's force to Zacatula, where he had and still has four vessels on the stocks ; the foundation of the villa of Segura at Tututepec, its subsequent abandonment, and the revolt and reconquest of the province; the conquest of Colima in 1523-4, resulting in the reports of Amazon isles rich in gold and pearls, and the discovery of a good port doubtless Manzanillo or Santiago; and finally the departure of Olid and Al- varado for the conquest of Central America. For the delay in completing and launching the ves sels he offers good excuses to the emperor, explaining the extreme slowness and difficulty of transporting all needed articles except timber across the continent from Vera Cruz, arid stating further that the tedious work of transportation when once completed had to be begun anew on account of the destruction by fire of the warehouse at Zacatula with all its contents "except a few anchors which would not burn." 15 A new stock of supplies was ordered and arrived at Vera Cruz about June 1524. The work was now in a good state of advancement, and Cortes believed that if pitch could be obtained the vessels might be ready by the end of June 1525. Neither does he omit to state that they will have cost him over eight thousand pesos. Here he expresses more extensively and more enthusiastically than elsewhere his ideas of the gran deur and importance of his schemes, stating clearly what his plans were in words that have already been translated in this chapter. 16 His intention was, in brief, to despatch his fleet at the end of July 1525, with orders to follow the coast north-westward until the strait should be found, or, by 15 By ce'dula of June 1523 the king had enjoined Cortds to hasten the search for a strait. Pacheco and Odrdenas, Col. Doc., xxiii. 3G6. In the later trial of Cortes there was an absurd theory broached that the delays were intentional, the ships having been built really as a means of escape from the country with embezzled millions. Cortes, Residentia, i. 27. 16 See note 4. PLANS FOR THE NORTH-WEST. 21 arrival at India, New Spain should be proved a part of the Asiatic continent as had been at first supposed. His hope was, first, to discover the strait and thereby shorten by two thirds the route to India; second, to find and conquer for his king rich islands and coasts hitherto unknown; and third, at the least, to reach India by a new route and open communication between Spain and the Spice Islands via New Spain. 17 By an inaccurate but natural conception of one passage in this letter of Cortes, 'Venegas and Navarrete, the lat ter a most able and painstaking writer, generally regarded as the best modern authority on Spanish voyages, as well as other writers of less note who have copied their statements, have been led to believe that Cortes intended with the Zacatula fleet to sail south ward toward Panama" in search of the strait. 18 Again in letters of September 3d and llth, 1526, after his return from Honduras, Cortes says: "Long ago I informed your Majesty that I was building cer tain vessels in the South Sea to make discoveries; and although that is a very important enterprise, yet on account of other occupations and occurrences it has 17 Cortis, Cartas, 275-8, 287-9, 304, 307-8, 314-15.' ls Navarrete, in Sutil y Mex. , Viayes, introd. , x. ; Venegas, Not. Col. , i. 142-8. In the passage alluded to, Cortes, Cartas, 315, the writer says the vessels 'will sail at the end of July 1525 down the same coast, 'por la misma costa abajo.' This at first caused me some trouble, since it seemed to conflict more or less directly with the view I have presented of the geographical ideas held by Corte"s and others of his time. That Cortds should still have a slight hope of finding a narrow strait in the south would not be very strange, though he implies on the same page that he had given up such hopes; but that he could expect by coasting southward, in case the strait were not found, to reach India and prove it all one continent with New Spain, seemed altogether absurd if his geographical ideas were such as I have attributed to him, such as he and others seemed to hold, and such as could be consistently held at the time. I had devised various means more or less ingenious and satisfactory of surmounting the difficulty, when I discovered that Cortes habitually used the term costa abajo or 'down the coast' to indicate what we term 'up the coast,' that is northward. For instances of this use of the term where there is no possible doubt as to his meaning, see the instructions to Francisco Cor tes in Icazbalceta, Col. Doc., i. 466, and also two cases in Cortes, Cartas, 491. I suppose this use of the term 'down the coast' may be accounted for by the fact that from the first the main Asiatic coast was ever present to the eyes of navigators; their great aim was to sail down that coast to India; and the dis tance to be sailed from New Spain before they could turn in that direction, a distance utterly unknown and always underestimated, was left out of the account! 22 CORTES ON THE SOUTH SEA COASTS. been suspended until now, when the vessels are ready. I send as captain Diego de Ordaz ... I believe he will sail during the month of ." ia He still has in view the same schemes of discovery as before, and is as enthusiastic as ever in his hopes of success. He even proposes, in case the emperor will grant him certain emoluments, to go in person to conquer for Spain all the Asiatic main and islands, pledging his word to get the best of the Portuguese in one way or another. 20 The vessels are represented as being at Zacatula and muy pronto para partir. There is nothing to indicate that they were not the same vessels he has been writing of before and the only ones yet built on the coast, although their number and class are not mentioned. Nayarrete, followed by Prescott, says that the brigantines originally built at Zacatula were burned when ready to be launched. 21 If such was the case the vessels referred to by Cortds must have been built since that date and during his absence in the south. This would seem strange; and especially so is the fact that Cortes says nothing of either burning or rebuilding. Not knowing the authority for Nav- arrete's statement, I regard it as erroneous. Whatever vessels these may have been, they were soon despatched, though in a direction somewhat different from that originally intended. In July 1526, Guevara's vessel, which had started from Spain with Loaisa's fleet bound to the Moluccas, but which had become separated from the consorts after entering the Pacific through the strait of Magellan, arrived on the coast below Zacatula, being thus the first to reach this 19 A blank in the original. 20 During Cor'teV absence Albornoz had proposed to rise his fleet for a voy age to the Moluccas. Carta, in Icazbalcda, Col. Doc. , i. 498-7. And Ocana urges that Cortes ought not to be trusted with such an expedition. ' If Cortes goes to make it he will die with a crown.' Letter in /(/., i. 532. ' 21 Sutil y Mex., Viaye, introd., x. ; Preco't's Illit. Coiiq. Mcz., iii. 270. Navarrete refers in a general way to a manuscript in the Royal Academy of Madrid, as containing much information on these matters; perhaps he gets this fact from that manuscript. The same statement is made in Dice. Univ., viii. 29. Venegas. Not. Cat., i. 140-9, says it is not known whether the ves sels sailed or not probably not. See note 24. SAAVEDRA'S VOYAGE. 23 coast by water direct from Europe. 22 In his Septem ber letters, Cortes says be lias sent a pilot to bring Guevara's vessel to Zacatula, and lias proposed to tbe captain, as bis own vessels are nearly ready to sail and for the same destination, namely, the Spice Islands, that all four vessels go together. 23 But very soon there came from the king to Cortes an order, dated June 20, 1526, to despatch an expedition to the relief of Loaisa at the Moluccas. As the order was impera tive and haste essential, the idea of following the coast round to India bad to be given up temporarily, and % three vessels under Alvaro de Saavedra were sent from Zacatula October 31, 1527, direct to tbe East Indies, where one of them arrived safely in March 1528, the others being lost. 24 Before starting across the Pacific, Saavedra's fleet made a trial trip up the coast to the port of Santiago in Coliina. It merits notice as the first navigation of the waters above Zacatula. The vessels left the lat ter port on July 14th and reached Santiago tho 24th. The voyage is not mentioned in the regular narra tive of tbe Molucca expedition; but the diary of one of the three vessels has been preserved, containing more geographical details than can be utilized here. 25 Between the date of the letter last referred to and 22 The original documents on this voyage are to be 'found in Navarrt te, Vlrtjcs, v. 170-81, 224-5. See also Pachecoand Cardenas, Col. Doc., xii. 488; Men-era, dec. iii.-iv. ; Gomara, Hist. Mex., 280-1. 23 Cortes, Cartax, 372-5, 489-90. zi Xavarrete, Col. Viatjes., v. 95-114, 440-86. See also Hist. Mex., ii. 258- 9, this series. The port from which this expedition sailed is called Siguata- iiejo or Cihuatlanejo, in the province of Zacatula. This name is given on modern maps to a point on the coast a few leagues south of the Zacatula River. It is but fair to state that Saavedra's three vessels arc spoken of as two navios and a beryantin, which would not agree in class with those originally built at Zacatula, namely, two brigantines and two caravels. Yet there was great want of care in writing these terms. It may also be noticed that if the two brigantines were burned, the two caravels with Guevara's vessel may have made up Saavedra's fleet of three if we disregard the class. In a later docu ment, Cartas, 543-4, Cortt-s says this expedition cost him over 60,000. 25 Saavedra, Relation de la derrota que hizo un bergant'in que scdid el 14 de Julio del aito 1527 del puerto de Zacatnla en N"iteva Espaiia, juntamente con dos tiarios, a las 6r ii. 198-9; TutldWs Hist. Col., 7. CHAPTEE II. NUftO DE GUZMAN IN SINALOA. 1530-1531. GUZMAN'S PLANS AND MOTIVES A GRAND ARMY NAMES OF OFFICERS MURDER OF A KING MARCH THROUGH MICHOACAN AND JALISCO CROSSING THE Rio GRANDE MAYOR ESPANA AT OMITLAN AND AZTAT- LAN AUTHORITIES ADVANCE TO CHAMETLA MAP QUEZALA PROV INCE PlASTLA ClGUATAN, PROVINCE OF WOMEN ON TO CULIACAN TOWN OF COLOMBO LOCAL EXPLORATIONS SAMANIEGO REACHES THE PETATLAN SEARCH FOR THE SEVEN CITIES LOPEZ CROSSES THE SIERRA TO DURANGO FOUNDING OF THE VILLA DE SAN MIGUEL DE CULIACAN SITE AND TRANSFERS LIST OF POBLADORES GUZMAN'S RETURN TO JALISCO FOUNDING OF CHAMETLA NUEVA GALICIA COMPOSTELA THE CAPITAL GUZMAN GOVERNOR His DOWNFALL. THE first exploration of the far north was destined to be by land and not by sea. We have seen Nufio de Guzman sent to Mexico in 1528 from Panueo as president of the audiencia and governor of New Spain. The year during which he held these positions at the capital, like every other year of his New World life, was one of dissensions. By the end of 1529 he had made himself thoroughly hated by nearly all classes. This fact did not trouble him seriously; but the signs of the times portended for him clanger and downfall. Cortes, his foe, but lately an absent crimi nal on trial before a bitterly hostile tribunal, was now being feted in Spain as a mighty conqueror. His popularity and prospective return signified for Guz man not only removal from office, but a residencia, exposure of crimes, persecution by foes maddened with long-continued wrongs. He realized that ab sence was his best policy. But a mere running-away (26)' PLANS OF CONQUEST. 27 from present dangers was by no means all of the crafty lawyer's plan. His departure should be with flying colors, and in its ultimate results a grand triumph. Victory was to be wrested from the jaws of defeat and disgrace. Cortes owed his success to his having won a new kingdom for Charles: Guzman might also triumph; might atone most effectually in royal eyes for past offences, humble a hated rival, and win for himself wealth, power, and fame by adding to the Spanish domain a mightier realm than had yet been conquered in the New World. Where should he seek for such a field of conquest? Nowhere assuredly but in the north-western land of mystery. Guzman was well acquainted with the geographical ideas of navigators and scholars of his time, ideas which I have noticed in the preceding chapter; and there is some evidence that he had thought of an expedition to the north even in the days of his high est prosperity. 1 He had just presided at the trial of Cortes, and from the voluminous testimony offered had become familiar with the great captain's schemes. He now resolved to make those schemes his own, to execute them in person, and to reap the resulting benefits. A nobler nature might have hesitated at taking so mean an advantage of his rival's absence; to Guzman such an advantage but brightened his visions of success. ^Having once determined on the expedition, Guz man, in view of the expected return of Cortes, lost no time in his preparations; nor did he neglect any of the advantages afforded by his high position. De tails of these preparations, however, and of Guzman's 1 It is also said that Guzman had some special information which made him the more sanguine. An Indian in his service from the country north of Punuco, and whose father had visited, the regions of the far north-western interior, told of rich and populous towns. Castaneda, in Ternaux-Compans^ serie i. torn. ix. 1-5, repeated in Davis" El Gringo, 58-9; Schoolcrafi's Arch., iv. 22; Domenech''* Deserts, i. 1G7-8, and other modern works. This seems to have been the beginning of the reports respecting the Seven Cities, so famous a little later. Whether the tales were founded on a knowledge of the Pueblo towns of New Mexico, or were pure inventions, the reader can judge perhaps as well as I; either foundation is perfectly possible and satisfactory. 28 NUfrO DE GUZMAN IN SINALOA. march through Michoacan and Jalisco have already been presented. 2 In December 1529 he marched from the capital at the head of five hundred Spanish sol diers and ten thousand Aztec and Tlascaltec allies, the most imposing army in some respects that had yet followed any New World conqueror. Peralrmndez Chirm os and Cristobal de Onate were his chief cap tains, and Pedro de Guzman, a kinsman of the presi dent, bore the standard, a golden virgin on silver cloth. Forty are said to have been hidalgos of Spain, gentleman-adventurers, exempt from all military ser vice except fighting. 3 The native warriors were decked in all their finery, Aztecs and Tlascaltecs vying with each other in display as the army marched proudly from the capital. The route lay through Michoacan and down the Rio Grande de Lerma to the region of the modern Guadalajara. This first stage of the advance was sig nalized by the brutal and unprovoked murder of King Tangaxoan Caltzontzin, after he had been forced by torture to furnish thousands of servants for the north ern expedition, and to relinquish all the little wealth that remained to him. Later progress was in keep ing with the bloody beginning. In May 1530 the several divisions of the army were reunited after having overrun the whole of what is now southern and eastern Jalisco. Some detachments seem to have penetrated as far northward as the sites of Lagos, 2 See Hist. Hex., ii. 293-5, 341 et seq., this series. 3 The names of officers mentioned in the different narratives of the expedi tion are: ' Jose' Angulo, Francisco Arzeo, Barrios, Crist6bal Barrios, Francisco Barren, Hernando Perez de Bocanegra, Diego Vazquez de Buendia, Juan de Burgos, Juan del Camino, Hernari Chirinos, Pedro A. Chirinos, Cristobal Flores, Francisco Flores, Hernando Flores, Nuno de Guzman, Pedro de Guz man, Juan Fernando de Hi jar, Miguel de Ibarra, Lipan, Gonzalo Lopez, Francisco de la Mota, Juan Sanchez de Olea, Cristdbal de Otanez, Cristobal de Oiiate, Juan de Onate, Juan Pascual, Garcia del Pilar, Diego Hernandez Proafio, Lope de Samaniego, Hernando Sanniento, Juan de Samano, Cristobal de Tapia, Torquemada, Francisco Verdugo, Juan de Villalba, Francisco de Villegas, Villaroel, and Zayas. Two chaplains and a Franciscan started with the army. Frcjes, Hist. Breve. Friars Juan de Padilla and Andre's de Cordoba were with the army in Sinaloa, and Brother Gutierrez became cura there. Beaumont, Cr6n. Mich., in. 422-3; Tetto, Hist. N. Gal, 355. AT AZTATLAK 29 Aguas Calientes, Zacatecas, and Jerez. Guzman's advance was marked everywhere by complete devasta tion, and few pueblos escaped burning. No attention was paid to the rights of the former conquerors, Avalos and Francisco Cortes, but the policy was to make it appear that the country had never been con quered, and that the present conquest was not an easy one; therefore such Indians as were not hostile at first, were soon provoked to hostility, that there might be an excuse for plunder and destruction and carnage, and especially for making slaves. This chap- ~ ter of horrors continued to the end of the expedition, but outrages were considerably less frequent and ter rible in the far north than south of the Rio Grande. A garrison was left at Tepic, the germ of the later Compostela, and on May 29th Guzman crossed the Rio Tololotlan into unexplored territory, of which he took formal possession under the name of Greater Spain, a title designed to eclipse that of New Spain applied to the conquest of Cortes. Passing on up the coast, and spending forty days at Omitlan, on what is now the San Pedro River, where Guzman heard of Cortes' arrival and the downfall of the first audiencia, the army in July went into winter quarters at Aztatlan, probably on the River Acaponeta, 4 where they remained until December, suffering terribly from flood and pestilence, and being obliged to send back to Michoacan for supplies arid for Indians to fill the place of the thousands that had perished. 5 4 On the location of Omitlan, see Hist. Mex. , ii. 358-9, this series. I find in Ponce, Relation Breve, Iviii. 62-72, some additional information which seems to put the doubt as to Aztatlan between the Acaponeta and the stream next south instead of the one next north, or Canas. He travelled in the country in 1587, and says: ' Half a league beyond San Juan Omitlan was the Rio San Pedro, which used to run farther south past Centipac one league from the Rio Grande; eight leagues beyond the San Pedro was the Rio Santa Ana, after passing two arroyos, and two leagues farther was the Acapoueta River and pueblo. Between the two rivers, or on the Sta Ana (not quite clear), was San Felipe Aztatlan.' 5 The leading authorities on Guzman's expedition are as follows: Guzman, Relation; Id., Relallone; Id., Relationes Andnimas (Ira, a,sra, fla) ; fd^ Ynformation sobre los Acontccimientos de la Guerra. In Pacheco and Cdrdenas, Col. Doc., xvi. 363-75; Lopez, Relation; Filar, Relation; Sdmano, Relation; 30 NU&O DE GUZMAN IN SINALOA. Forced to leave Aztatlan lest his whole army should perish, for men were dying every day, Guzman sent an exploring force under Lope de Samaniego, who brought back a favorable report of a place called Chametla where the natives were friendly and had furnished a supply of food for the army. This was the first entry, November 1530, of Europeans into the territory since called Sinaloa, the first crossing of the line which marks the territorial limits of this volume. After Samaniego's return Pilar was sent southward in search of Lopez, who had long been expected with supplies. Then Verdugo and Proano were sent for ward to make preparations; and in a few weeks Guz man advanced with the main army, leaving Cristobal' de Onate at Aztatlan with a few men. Lopez and Pilar soon came up from Jalisco with reinforcements and stores, and all proceeded northward to join the governor. The province and town of Chametla were on the river next above that now known as the Canas, the boundary of the present Sinaloa. The river still re tains the name of Chametla, and an anchorage at its mouth long bore the same name. 6 It is the region of Carranza, Relation sobre la Jornada qne hizo Nv.no de Guzman. In PacJieco and Cardenas, Col. Doc., xiv. 347-73. The preceding are narratives of men who took part personally in the expedition. The most important general references are Oviedo, iii. 501-77; Hen-era, dec. iv. lib. vii. cap. viii. ; lib. viii. cap. i.-ii. ; lib. ix. cap. ix.-xii.; Beaumont, Cron. Mich;, iii. 266-7, 352-422; Mota Pa- dilla, Conq. N. Gal., 23-66; Tello, Hist. N. Gal; Frejes, Hist. Breve, 41-68, 118-21. For additional information about these authorities, and for list of many more, see Hist. Max., ii. 373-4, this series. 6 Humboldt's map and some others, however, locate the port of Chametla at the mouth of the Canas. In locating rivers and towns visited by early explorers on this part of the coast, I have in every case carefully compared the statements of the original authorities with the best modern maps. The result in nearly every instance is satisfactory, although I have not the space to lay before the reader the steps by which it has been reached, and although it would be easy in most cases to find statements in some document not con sistent with my conclusion. The original chroniclers often wrote from mem ory after a lapse of time, and were careless and contradictory in their statements of time and distance. The expedition halted usually at several towns in a province and the army was often divided along the route; hence each writer in estimating distances between two provinces bases his estimate on a different pueblo. Moreover no account was taken of the several branches of a stream or of several crossings of the same stream. It was always 'un rio' and 'otro rio.' The maps of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries with PROVINCE OF CHAMETLA. 31 the present Rosario. The natives, hospitable from the first, had sent back food for the famishing army, and had furnished a thousand carriers to bring their luggage from the southern camp; but they were un- MAP OF GUZMAN'S EXPEDITION, 1531. used to such labor, and their temporary masters inca pable of leniency even to voluntary servants; therefore many of the eighteenth, some 25 or 30 of which are before me, aid but little in the task, since they were evidently made from some of the documents we are considering, and consist for the most part of a series of parallel rivers running into the sea in the order mentioned, their number being much greater than that of the streams actually existing. Taking into consideration these sources of confusion, together with the imperfection of the best modern maps, 1 deem it remarkable that Guzman's route can be so satisfactorily located, and that writers have been BO much perplexed and disagreed so widely. 32 NU5TO DE GUZMAN IN SINALOA. the carriers ran away. The native chiefs, moreover, became impatient at the prospect that the Spaniards would remain in their province as long as they had in Aztatlan. Lopez soon arrived, as we have seen, from the south with warrior's, carriers, slaves, and hogs; the carriers from Michoacan were distributed among the Spaniards, and the slaves from Jalisco sold at one dollar a head. Guzman was again master of the situation, now that his army was restored to something like its original strength; and finally it was easy to provoke acts of hostility sufficient to afford the slight color of justifi cation required for robbing and burning. Yet the work was much less complete in Sinaloa than in north ern Jalisco, and several caciques kept up their friendly relations, furnished guides, and opened roads for the northern advance undertaken late in January 1531, after a stay at Chametla of about a month. 7 The 16th of January Guzman had written to the king announc ing his intention to start within eight days for the ' province of women' said to be not far distant. If not prevented by excessive cold he would continue his march to latitude 40, believing Chametla to be in 25; then he would turn inland and cross to the other sea. He had heard of five vessels which sailed up this coast four or five years ago, and suspects they belonged to Sebastian Cabot's East Indian fleet. 8 A march of four or five days brought the army to a province of Quezala seven or eight leagues beyond 7 From 20 days to two months according to different narratives. Accord ing to Tello, Hi$t. N. Gal., 351-5, an army of natives between Aztatlan and Chametla made a show of resistance merely, as they explained later, to see the 'big deer,' or horses run. This author, followed by Navarrete, ignores all resistance of the natives of Sinaloa and also for the most part all outrages committed on them. His narrative is largely rilled with a description of re ception ceremonies at each pueblo. No hens were found north of Chametla. Guzman, Ira Rd. Anon., 288-9; Lopez, JKeL, 444. The start was about Jan. 24th, according to Guzman's letter. 8 Jan. 16, 1531, Guzman to king, in Pacheco and Cardenas, Col. Doc., xiv. 408-14. The letter is chiefly filled with complaints of the way he is being treated by the authorities in Mexico, and charges against Cortds. He has discovered three large islands named Conception. Another letter of Jan. 15th, Id., xiv. 406-8, is to the Consejo de Indias on legal matters. QUEZALA AND PIASTLA. 33 Chametla on a smaller stream. It was apparently the region about the modern Mazatlan. 9 The people were different in language, dwellings, and in other respects from those met farther south, but they made little or no opposition, though Herrera says several towns were destroyed. The country before them was barren, mountainous, or obstructed by lagoons, and explorers were sent forward from each halting-place. The army moved on from Frijolar, the last Quezala village, in the first week of February. 10 Piastla was the next province, ten or twelve leagues farther up the coast on a river that still retains the name. The inhabitants were hostile and several en counters occurred with the uniform result that the natives were defeated and their towns destroyed. The auxiliaries here became clamorous to return home; several were hanged and one burned in the attempt to quell insubordination. One squadron escaped but were killed by the natives in attempting to reach Jalisco, except one man who returned to camp to tell the story. 11 Here the houses for purposes of defence were built round interior courts; horrid masses of snakes with intercoiled bodies and protruding heads lay in the dark corners of the dwellings, where they were tamed, venerated, and finally eaten; and it was noted that the women were more comely here than elsewhere. Ash Wednesday, February 22d, was passed at Bayla village, and about the first of March the army Amoved on. Ciguatan, "place of women/' was a province of eight 9 Cazala, Culipara or Colipa, Quezala, and Frijolar, or Frijoles the latter so named from the abundance of beans were the rancherias passed, none of which names seem to have been retained. Puimos is also named by Lopez. Relation, 440. 10 Three Spaniards died at Culipara and two at Quezala. Two Spanish offi cers were degraded in rank here for an attempt to desert. Guzman, S ra ReL, An6n. t 449; Filar, Relation, 258; Guzman, # ReL Anon., 474; Sdmano, ReL, 11 The Piastla towns in the order visited were: Piastla, Pochotla, La Sal, Bayla, and Rinconatla; but Samaniego, sent to explore, found both banks of the river lined with pueblos down to the sea. La Sal, so named from heaps of salt found there, was probably on the northern branch of the river. HIST. N. MEX. STATES, VOL. I. 3 34 NUftO DE GUZMAN IN'SINALOA. pueblos on a river of the same name, also called in Spanish Bib de las Mugeres, and apparently to be identified with the stream now known as Bio de San Lorenzo. The name Quild, used in the narratives is still applied to a town on that river. The rich and mysterious isles of the Amazons had been from the first one of the strongest incentives to north-western exploration in the minds of both Cortes and Guzman. The cosmographer by his vagaries had furnished the romancer with sufficient foundation for the fable; the tales of natives from the first conquest of Michoacan had seemed to support it; and as Guzman proceeded northward and drew nearer to Ciguatan his hopes were greatly excited. Natives along the route were willing to gratify the Spanish desire for the marvel lous, or perhaps the interpreters' zeal outran their linguistic skill; the women of Ciguatan were repre sented as living alone except during four months of the year, when young men from the adjoining prov inces were invited to till their fields by day and rewarded with their caresses at night. Boy babies were killed or sent to their fathers ; girls were allowed to grow up. These details with some variations are repeated by each writer as having been told before they arrived, and as corroborated more or less com pletely by what they saw and heard at Ciguatan, where they found many women and few men. But, as several of them admit, it was soon discovered that the men had either fled to avoid the Spaniards or to make preparations for an attack. 12 The Amazon bub ble had burst; but the soldiers were by no means in clined to forget the marvels on which their imagina- 12 Lopez, Rd., 443, says only three males and 1,000 women were found in one town. Armienta, Apuntes para la Hlstorla de Stnaloa, says: ' Estos pueblos se hallaban en la e"poca habitados por mugeres solas, en cumplimiento de un voto religiose que las oblige d, vivir separadas de los hombres por un periodo de 20 anos Aztecas.' He calls the Amazon towns Abuya and Binapa at the base of the Tacuchamona range, on the other side of which was Qnezala, confounded with the later and more northern Cosala. He also describes the reception at Navito by 60,000 natives. This narrative, written for a Sinaloa newspaper, seems to be mainly taken from Tello's work. CIGUATAN AND CULIACAN. 35 tions had so long feasted ; they continued to talk long after they returned to Mexico of the wonderful City of Women. 13 About the middle of March Guzman left Ciguatan, where a conspiracy of the Spaniards had been revealed and the ringleader hanged, and passing Quila, Aqui- mola, or Quimola, and Las Flechas, passed on to the southern branch of the river next northward, that now known as the Rio Tamazula, arriving at a town called Cuatro -Barrios* 1 * Thence the army marched down the river, crossing at Leon and passing Humaya, a name still applied to the northern branch of the river, until they reached Colombo, which seems to have been one of the largest towns in the Culiacan province, and was perhaps not far from the junction of the two rivers or the modern site of Culiacan. The inhabitants had fled, but were pursued and de feated, first by Sarnaniego and then by Guzman, who took many captives, including a brother of the pro vincial ruler. 15 Colombo was the head-quarters of the army during the stay of seven months, and but little is said of the town of Culiacan, which seems to have been a little farther down the river. From Colombo the Spaniards marched down the river nearly to the sea, passing many native towns; but, finding no satisfactory prospect of farther advance north-westward by the coast, they returned, and after some additional explorations meagrely and confusedly described, celebrated holy week, 2d to 9th of April, at Colombo. After easter, Lopez, the maestre de campo, was sent to explore, 'by another way,' perhaps up the 13 Oviedo, iii. 576-7, heard these tales from the soldiers in Mexico; but meeting Guzman later in Spain was told the truth. This author says the chief pueblo was a well-built town of 6,000 houses. He also names Orocomay as another Amazon pueblo. Herrera, dec. iii. lib. viii. cap. iii., calls the town Zapuatan. u Armienta, Apunteft, speaks of Cuatro Barrios as now called Barrio y Moras. He also speaks of a spot on the way thither still called Vizcaino for a native of Vizcaya who died there. 15 Lopez, Relaclon, 446-8, implies that military operations in this part of the expedition were chiefly under Cristobal de Onate and himself. He gives many details. 36 KUJsO DE GUZMAN IN SINALOA. Rio Humaya 16 to a village- of Cinco Barrios, whither Guzman marched and waited twenty days, while Lopez penetrated some fifteen leagues northward into the mountains; but no further pass being found all re turned again to Culiacan. Samaniego was sent again to attempt the coast route, and succeeded without much difficulty in reaching the Rio cle Petatlan so called from the petates, or mats, with which the natives covered their dwellings now the Rio cle Sinaloa. But he found no large towns or rich provinces, only a comparatively barren tract inhabited by a rude people, and returned to join his commander. As a matter of fact the country north of Culiacan was by no means impassable; nor were the difficulties much greater than had already been overcome; but after the disappointment respecting the Amazon coun try, of which so much had been expected, the north west had no charms that could rekindle the hopes of Guzman and his men. Two destinations had been talked of when the expedition left Mexico, the Ama zon isles and the Seven Cities. Disappointed in his search for the former,* Guzman now determined to seek the latter by crossing the sierra eastward. Dur ing Samaniego's absence two exploring parties had been sent out, and one of them had found a pass. In May the army set forth, and marched some twenty- five leagues, much of the way up the Mugeres River, the headwaters of which they also crossed far up in the mountains later, to a town of Guamochiles. Lo pez was sent forward, and after twenty clays sent back a message that he had crossed all the sierras, had reached a town, and was about to start for a large province three days distant. Guzman at once despatched Captain Sarnano to join the maestre, and soon started himself, although so ill that he had to be 16 But possibly the Tamazula. The way in which the narrators speak of 'a river,' 'the river,' 'another river,' Rio de Mugeres, Rio cle Pascua, etc., is simply exasperating. Samano, however, Relation, 285, says the explora tion was up a river flowing into that of Culiacan; and Lopez, Relation, 450-3, also mentions a junction of streams. ACROSS THE SIERRA. 37 carried in a litter. For many days the Spaniards and allies pursued their toilsome way over difficult moun tain passes, forty leagues in all, as Garcia del Pilar estimates it, and when almost across the range met Lopez returning with the report that a march of seventy leagues across the plains had led to nothing. The country afforded no supplies, and to advance was sure destruction. Slowly and despondently Guzman retraced his steps, with great hardships and losses, especially of horses, to Culiacan, or Colombo, where he arrived on Santiago day, or July 25th. Exactly what regions Lopez had explored it is impossible to say, since no points of the compass are given and the distances are evidently much exaggerated. In a gen eral way we may suppose that he ascended the Tama- zula, crossed the sources of the Mugeres, or San Lorenzo, reached a branch of the Elo Nazas, and advanced nearly to the eastern limit of Central Du- rango. 17 Back in Culiacan Guzman occupied himself with the foundation of the Villa de San Miguel, also send ing out several minor expeditions in different direc tions to keep the natives in subjection and obtain supplies. 18 Captain Diego de Proano was made al- 17 Lopez, Relation, 455-60, gives a somewhat detailed account of his trip, which is briefly as follows, and may be compared with the map in this chap ter: Ouate had found a pass in the region where Lopez had been before. From Guamochiles (there are some indications that this town was near that of Cinco Barrios) crossed the Rio de Mugeres near its source, over a range 4 leagues up and G down to a pueblo; 8 or U days up and down to some plains, a fine river, and a pueblo; had a battle on the river near a great bend; somo explorations up and down the river; a messenger sent back to Guzman. Then 'east as before' nearly GO leagues through a Chichimec country, to a river ' very large for one flowing inland;' it flowed sometimes east and sometimes south; down it a short distance; then left it and went south 3 days with nothing to eat to a river and a settlement of 50 houses. Left Hernau Chirinos and re turned with 5 men by a different route through great valleys in 3 days to the river where the fight had occurred. Here met Samano with news that Guz man was coming. Lopez went to meet Guzman, who against Lopez' advice resolved to recall the men and give up the exploration. 18 It is not impossible that the explorations of Ofiate and Angulo to be mentioned in a subsequent chapter and represented by most authors as having been made after Guzman's departure, should be included in these expeditions. In one of them Samaniego visited the coast, and according to Guzman, 3 rcl Rel. Antfn., 459, discovered a fine bay which he named San Miguel, formed by an island eight leagues in circumference and about one league from the 38 NUftO DE GUZMAN IN SINALOA. calde mayor of the new villa, and one hundred sol diers, fifty cavalry, and fifty infantry were left as vecinos, Brother Alvaro Gutierrez being the curate in charge. Land was allotted to each citizen with such swine and cattle as could be spared from the army. Many of the surviving carriers from the south were obliged to remain much against their will; by a system of repartimientos each settler was entitled to the services of a certain number of natives; and authority was granted to enslave all hostile Indians. Large stores of beads and other trifles were also left to be bartered with the natives for food. It is diffi cult to determine the exact site which was chosen for the villa, or that to which it was transferred in this or the following year, and from which it was at an unknown date again moved to or near the spot now occupied by the city of Culiacan. It is prob able, however, that the original location was on the Rio de Mugeres, or San Lorenzo, near its mouth. 39 Having completed his arrangements for the new settlement, Guzman with his army started southward in the middle of October, and returned to Jalisco by the same route he had come, without incidents calling ' O for mention. On the way, however, or very soon after main. Herrera, Descrip. de las Ind., cap. xx. ii.(ed. 1730), not only describes such an island under the name of Guayabal, but locates it on his map as ex tending nearly the whole distance from the Rio de Culiacan (Pascua) to the Petatlan (Nra Senora). This is remarkable, as 110 such island exists. 19 Lopez, Rel., 461, says it was on the Rio de Mugeres. In Guzman, 3 a Rel. An6n, 459, it is located on the Rio de Aguatan (Ciguatan?). Herrera, dec. iv. lib. ix. xi., says it was near the Mugeres. Tello, Hist. N. Gal., 355, and Beaumont, Cr6n. Mich., iii. 421-2, say it was at Navito, which is near the mouth of the San Lorenzo. According to the IraRel, Antfn., 292, and #l Marqute, 346, says that Hurtado, a negro, and an Indian slave were killed for their outrages on the natives. BECERRA, GRIJALVA, AOT) JIMENEZ. 45 later, and the 'wooden house' in which the strangers came was driven ashore and broken up at the mouth of the Rio Petatlan, now the Sinaloa. Cortes attrib uted the failure of this expedition to the hostility of Guzman, preventing his landing for supplies and re pairs. 17 Assured that the San Miguel was lost, and receiving no tidings of the San Marcos, Cortes had still left two other vessels on the stocks at Tehuantepec. He went in person to the coast to superintend their completion and out-fitting. 18 The command was given to Diego Becerra, like Hurtado a relative of Cortes/ 9 who sailed on the Conception as capitana with Fortun Jimenez 20 as piloto mayor. Hernando de Grijalva commanded the San Ldzaro with Martin de Acosta as piloto. 21 They set sail from Tehuantepec on the 29th or 30th of October 1533. 22 The second night out of port the vessels were sepa rated and never met again. Captain Becerra was an arbitrary and disagreeable man, disliked by all under his orders, and it is more than probable that Grijalva had no desire to rejoin his commander. The official 11 Real Provision, 1534, 35. 18 Cortes states that he lived for a year and a half in a small house on the shore and even aided personally in the work. Heal Provision, 1534, 35-G. See also Hist. Mex., ii. 422, this series; Pacheco&nd Cardenas, Col. Doc., xii. 541-51. 19 Ib. The hidalgo Diego Bezerra de Mendoza, one of the Bezerras of Bada- joz or Merida. Denial Diaz, Hist. Conq. Mex., 232-3. 20 ABiscayan, whose name is written Fortunio, Ortuiio, and Ortun. 21 Romay, Cncnta de lo que ha rjastado el Marques del Voile, Armada de 1533, in Pacheco and Cardenas, Col. Doc., xii. 298-313, names also the following officers: Juan Ochoa, escribano; Francisco Palazuelos, surgeon; and padres Martin de la Coruiia, Juan de San Miguel, and Francisco Pastrana. Military officials besides Becerra and Grijalva: Bernaldino de Hinojosa, treasurer; Pedro de Fuentes, alguacil mayor; Juan de Carasa, contador; Antonio de Ulloa, maestre de campo; and Fernando de Alvarado, veedor. Juan de los Pinos, maestre, and Martin Perez de Lescano, contra-maestre, of the Concep tion-, Juan Garcia, maestre of the San Ldzaro. There were 43 sailors and maritime officials, to whom was paid 7,499 pesos. 22 From the 'puerto de Jucatan (Jucutlan?), llamadola Bah fa de Santiago de Buena Ksper-anza, donde se fabricaron los navios,' Grijalca, Relation. Probably the modern San Diego in 10 1'. Navarrete, in SittU y Mex., Vw/c, xiii.-xvii. ; Venegas, Not. Ceil., i. 52-4, and Loreuzana, Cortes Hist., 323-4, say that the expedition sailed in 1534. 46 CORTES, GUZMAN, AND CABEZA DE VACA. diary of Grijalva's voyage has been preserved, 23 but unfortunately it is of slight importance for my purpose, as it only records, for the most part, a series of nautical minutiae of adventures in open sea, of courses and lati tudes not to be depended on, and all apparently south of the latitude of Cape Corrientes. In the course of his wanderings, however, Grijalva discovered the islands now known as the Revilla Gigedo group, landing on Socorro, and naming it Santo Tomas from the day of that saint, Dec. 20th. The northern islands of this group were styled Los Inocentes. From a point on the Colima coast the San Ldzaro sailed southward in February 1534 to Acapulco, where after refitting she was sent on another expedition in a vain search for islands in the south and south-west. Grijalva, it appears, was not the only one in the fleet who desired to be rid of Captain Becerra; but the pilot Jimenez and his companions accomplished their purpose in a more criminal manner. Soon after parting with the San Ldzaro they murdered Becerra while asleep, 24 wounded the few who cared to oppose their acts, and at the earnest request of two Franciscan friars on board landed both padres and the wounded on the Colima coast at Motin, 25 whence some of the party brought the news to Cortes. 23 Relation de la Jornada que hizo a descubrir en la Mar del Sur el Capitan Hernando de Grijalva, etc., in Florida, Col. Doc., i. 1G3-72; also in Pacheco, Col. Doc., xiv. 128-42. I have also the MS. copy made from the original in Spain by Mr Buckingham Smith. This belonged to the valuable collection of the late E. G. Squier, added to my own since that gentleman's death. Some drawings in this manuscript, representing mermaids, or ' men-fish' seen on several occasions during the voyage, have been published as above, and in the atlas of Sutll y Mex. Viage. Herrera, dec. v. lib. vii. cap. iii-iv., doubtless saw this document. 24 ' Decretando en el cruel tribunal de su alevosa intencion, apagar las luces de sus sentidos con la funesta mano de su atrevimiento, ' etc., is the flowery style in which Salazar tells the story. Hist. Conq. Mex., 442-4. Bernal Diaz says some of Becerra's men were also killed. In Proceso del Marques del Voile, 301, the murderer is called Martin Ruiz de Bertincloua, and this in a legal document by the representative of Cortes. 25 The name Motin was not, as might be supposed, given at the time. A Cape Motin is mentioned in the diary of the first voyage between Zacatula and Santiago. Saavedra, Relacion, 89. Taylor, L. Ceil., 14-15, thinks it was in the vicinity of Mazatlan. Beaumont, Cron. Mich., iii. 485-6, 490, says P. Martin de Jesus was one of the friars. He was one of the most prominent of early Franciscans in Michoacan. See note 21. DISCOVERY OF SANTA CRUZ. 47 Some time later we have no exact dates three or four sailors brought the Conception into the port of Chametla, or perhaps Matanchel, 26 and their brief tale is all we can ever know of their companions' fate. It seems that the wicked Jimenez, freed from uncongenial authority, sailed on in accordance with the dead cap tain's instructions till he reached a bay on an island coast as he supposed. Attempting to land and take possession, he was killed with over twenty of his com panions, and the few left took advantage of a favorable wind to bring the vessel to Chametla. 27 Nuno de Guzman at once conceived the idea of refitting the O craft thus providentially thrown into his hands, and undertaking a voyage of discovery on his own account. The sailors brought from the new island reports, and perhaps samples, of pearls, which proved an additional incentive. He at once seized the vessel and by a pretence of trial and legal formalities tried to detain the surviving sailors and thus keep Cortes in ignor ance of his plans, but they managed to escape and were not long in acquainting the captain-general with what had occurred. 28 2G Gomara, Conq. Mex., 288-9, says two sailors. Cortes, Icazbalceta, Col. Doc. , ii. 33-6, says that two started to come to him to report, but were arrested by Guzman. In Icazbalceta 's introduction to torn. ii. xxv.-vi. it is stated that 20 men escaped to Jalisco. Salazar, Hist. Conq. Hex., 442-4, makes them re turn to the port of Jalisco instead of Chametla. Guzman, Proceso del Mar ques, 34G-7, says the vessel grounded at Espiritu Santo. See, also, Oviedo, iv. GOT, on this voyage. 21 Guzman testified, Proceso 'del Marques, 346-7. that two men came across from the island before the massacre -to Purificacion, and thence by land to Compostela, one being killed on the way and the other arrested by Oiiate on arrival. (See note 26. ) One man on shore escaped the massacre and swam off to the vessel, on which were four or five men. 28 It appears that the report which first reached Corte"s was to the effect that Jimenez had with his men joined Guzman against the captain-general. Pacheco and Cardenas, Col. Doc., xii. 430. According to theNoticiadeEvpe- diciones, 670, this expedition consisted of three vessels under Barrera and Gri- jalva. They went up to 26, saw rivers which they named Santiago, San Pedro, and Clota, when they heard that Hurtado was yet sailing along the coast. Parted by a hurricane, Barrera returned to Acapulco, while Grijalva took refuge behind a small island which he called Ballenas, between 28 and 29 ! Mr Jarves founds his romance of Kiana on the theory that two of Gri- jalva's ships were never heard of except in the Hawaiian Islands, where the arrival of Spaniards in olden time is recorded in native tradition. Unless his information respecting the tradition is more correct than that on the voyage, I fear his theories will not be generally accepted. 48 CORTES, GUZMAN, AND CABEZA DE VACA. Other vessels must have been far toward comple tion when Becerra's fleet sailed from Tehuantepec, for as early as September 1534 Cortes stated to the audiencia that he had four large ships ready to con tinue the exploration. No sooner was the result of Becerra's voyage known from the sailors who had landed at Chametla, than complaint was made to the audiencia of Guzman's acts. Consequently that tri bunal the 19th of August ordered the governor of New Galicia to give up the vessel he had seized and by no means to undertake any expedition to the island discovered by Jimenez; but again the 2d of Septem ber another order was issued enjoining Cortes also from undertaking a voyage to that island, on the ground that Guzman was understood to have already sent a ship thither and ' scandal ' was feared in case the two hostile leaders should meet. This was made known to the marquis on the 4th, and the next day he presented a long protest against that order, recapitu lating his past services and the sacrifices he was mak ing at an advanced age in the emperor's service. He called attention to the great cost of the vessels that had been lost and of those now ready to sail, alluding to his direct authority from the government to under take voyages of discovery, and finally declared that Guzman neither had sent nor could send an expedition, as he had neither men nor vessels, the Conception being stranded on the coast. 29 Respecting the action taken by the audiencia on this protest we only know that Gonzalo de Ruiz was sent to New Galicia to investigate Guzman's acts and arrest other offenders, restoring any property that might have been taken from Cortes. 30 But, either disgusted with the slowness of that tribunal to do him 29 The documents referred to are given in the Real Provision solre Descu- brimientos en el Mar del Sur. 30 Commission and instructions to Ruiz dated Sept. 14th, 22d, in Pacheco and Cardenas, CoL Doc., xii. 429-39. Herrera, dec. v. lib. vii. cap. iv., says the audiencia informed Cortes it could do nothing, Guzman's province being a separate government not under the jurisdiction of the Mexican tribunal. EXPEDITION OF CORTES. 40 justice, or more probably fortified by some document ary authority from its oidores, Cortes resolved not only to despatch a third expedition, but to command it in person. Volunteers .were called for, including families for the permanent occupation of the new island. The prestige of the great conqueror, the ap parent confirmation of his well known views respect ing the South Sea islands, and the current report of the pearl discovery were all-powerful; Cortes soon had more applicants than he could accommodate. A large store of supplies was prepared, 31 and late in 1534 or at the beginning of 1535 three vessels were despatched from Tehuantepec for Chametla, probably under Her- nando de Grijalva. They were the San Ldzaro, Santa Agueda, and Santo Tomds, and arrived safely at their first destination, no particulars of the voyage being known. A little later, in the spring of 1535, 32 Cortes started for Chametla by land at the head of a large force, 33 not at all averse as we may well believe to a conflict with the governor of New Galicia. But Guzman, too weak to make a successful fight, kept out of the way, being called to the valley of Banderas by Indian diffi culties, and afforded the cap tain -general no pretext for hostilities. There was, however, some correspond ence between the two rivals. The 20th of February Guzman, at Compostela, commissioned Pedro de Ulloa to go and meet Cortes, and to serve on him a legal warning not to enter his jurisdiction, or if he had already done so to retire. Ulloa found Cortes four days later at Iztlan, and at Ahuacatlan on the 25th 31 But Mendoza in hjp letter to Carlos V. says the expedition was composed of ' quelques faiitassins et un petit nombre de cavaliers assez mal pourvus des objets necessaires.' Tenaux-Compans, Voy., sr., i. 189-93; Helps' Span. Conq., iii. 375; Davis' El Grhic/o, 61, 70-1; 80; Barreiro, Ojeada, 5; Montanus, Neue Welt, 234-5; Montanm, N. Weercld, 207-9; Frost's Half Hours, 122-8; Barber's Hist. West. St., 546-8; Larenau- dicre, Mex. Guat., 145; Iml. Aff. Rcpt. 1863, 388; Murray's N. Amer., ii. 69-72; Hutching*' Mag., i. Ill; Lardner's Hist. Mar. Discov., ii. 98; Laet, JVb/vx Orbis, 292, 297-9; Taylor, in CaL Farmer, June 12, 1863; Mayer's Mex. Aztec, i. 145; Urintfs Hist. Voy., 374. 7 CorteY memorial of June 25, 1540, in Icazbalceta, Col. Doc., ii. xxviii.-ix. ; CortcK, Escritos, 299-304; Navarrete, Col. Viages, iv. 209, etc. Cortes states that with a view of enlisting Niza's services, he had imparted to him what he had learned from the natives during his voyage. The friar treacher ously disclosed the information to the viceroy and on it founded his narrative. It is stated that Xiza had been guilty of like dishonorable conduct in Guate mala and Peru. 8 "\Vhipple, Pac. R. R. Repts., iii. 104, conjectures that the eastern settle ment heard of was that now represented by the Casas Grandcs of Chihuahua. For a description of those ruins see Native. Races of the Pac. States, iv. 604-14, this series. Whipple also locates Vacupa at Magdalena on the Rio de San Miguel. This is nothing but a conjecture, but perhaps as accurate a one as could be made. It 13 adopted by some other writers. 76 NIZA, ULLOA, CORONADO, AND ALARCON. sending native messengers to the coast, and also de spatching the negro in advance and arranging a system of signals by which he might report his discoveries. Four days after his departure there came messengers with a large cross, the sign agreed upon to indicate that Estevanico had discovered or heard of a country larger or richer than New Spain; and also a verbal message of such wonderful things that even the credu lous friar hesitated to believe them. The Indians sent to the coast also returned and brought back natives with reports of thirty-four inhabited but bar ren isles, the people of which were large and strong, wearing ornaments of pearl-oyster shells, and bearing cow-hide shields. Three Indians of a tribe called Pintados, from the east, and claiming to know some thing of Cibola, together with two of the islanders, set out with Niza to overtake Estevanico, who had sent a second cross. In three days he came to the people who had told the negro of Cibola and its seven cities, thirty days' journey beyond, where they had been to get turquoises. They also spoke of the prov inces, or kingdoms, of Marata, Acus, and Totonteac. For five days the party went on through settlements, the last of which, well watered and pleasant, near the site of Tucson as Whipple thinks, was not far from the borders of a desert crossed in four days. Details of Niza's subsequent adventures, observa tions, and falsehoods, with conjectures for nothing more definite is possible respecting the route fol lowed, belong to another part of my work. 9 It suffices here to say that he continued his journey until late in May when he looked from a hill upon Cibola, which he regarded as larger than Mexico, though said to be the smallest of the seven cities. A cross being raised, possession was taken of the country as New San Fran cisco. Fray Marcos could not enter the town, as the people were hostile and had killed the negro and sev- 9 See Hist. New Mex. and Ariz., this series. NEW EFFORTS BY CORTES. 77 eral of his native companions. In latitude estimated as 35 it was understood that the coast opposite turned abruptly westward. The return was by the same route "with more fear than food;" and Niza reached Compostela at the end of June, accompanying Coro- nado to Mexico late in August. There seems to be no good reason to doubt that the friar really went from Culiacan through Sonora, across the Gila Val ley, and thence north-westward to Cibola, one of the Zuiii pueblos. Despite the gross exaggerations result ing from Niza's credulity and lively imagination, it is evident enough that his story may have been remotely founded on the true state of things at that time. Ex cept the so-called turquoises there was no foundation for the tales of great wealth to which this explorer's reports gave currency in Mexico. Though bitterly disappointed at the failure of his colonization scheme of 1535-6, the marques del Valle was by no means ready to give up all the brilliant hopes which had so long filled his heart; or, if he had such an inclination at first, the reports of Alvar Nunez kindled his enthusiasm as they did that of Mendoza. So long as northern conquest promised but slight re ward, relations between captain-general and viceroy were somewhat friendly; but with reports of great cities causing renewed popular interest, serious hos tility was developed between the two. Cortes claimed the exclusive right to make explorations in the north. In September 1538 he wrote to the council of the Indies that he had nine good vessels ready for a voy age, only lacking pilots. 10 Mendoza's act in despatch ing Niza, to whom Cortes had confided all he had learned about the north, was strenuously but vainly opposed by the captain-general, who, on hearing the friar's marvellous tales, became alarmed lest another should reap the fame and wealth for which he had 10 Col. Doc. Incd., iv. 193; Cortes, Escritos, 280-1. 78 NIZA, ULLOA, CORONADO, AND ALARCON. toiled so earnestly, and resolved to get the start of his rival by sending out a fleet at once. 11 The Santa Agueda, Trinidad, and Santo Tomds, of one hundred and twenty, thirty-five, and twenty tons respectively, were put under the command of Fran cisco de Ulloa, and having on board sixty soldiers and 11 In his memorial of June 28, 1540, Cortes, Escritos, 303-4; Col. Doc. Ined., iv. 213, says that Mendoza hearing of Ulloa's departure sent men to the ports where the fleet might touch to prevent the voyage: and also on the return to hear what had been accomplished. Thus a messenger sent from Santiago to Corte"s was seized and tortured with a view of obtaining informa tion. The viceroy also ordered that no person be allowed to leave New Spain without his permission, so that no aid could be sent to Ulloa. Bernal Diaz, however, Hist. Verdad., 234, says the expedition was sent by the express order of the audiencia. In his memorial of 1539 Cortes announces that Ulloa is ready to sail, and asks that no restrictions be placed on his sending expedi tions to the countries he had discovered. Escritos, 294-5. The state of feeling between the different would-be conquerors after the receipt of Niza's reports is best shown by legal proceedings in Spain in 1540-1. Proceso del Marques, 300-408. Cortes, Guzman, Alvarado, and Soto each by an attorney urged upon the royal council his title to Cibola. Each had a license for northern discovery, obtained in the hop,e that in the vague northern somewhere was a mighty nation, etc., to make the finder famous, powerful, and rich. Now this prize had been found by a fifth party, the viceroy, through Niza, and Men doza was said to be preparing to follow up the discovery. Something must be done. Soto was authorized to conquer and govern 200 leagues on the Florida coast, and was at the time engaged in active explorations. That Cibola was included in his territory was a fact known to all the world, so clear that a child might comprehend it. As yet his obtuse adversaries had the assurance to deny that Cibola was in Florida. Cortes, who in general terms would admit the right of no other to make northern discoveries at all, had authority to explore and conquer on the South Sea coasts toward the Gran China; he had spent large sums of money, had sent several armadas, and had another ready; indeed he had already dis covered Cibola, or the lands immediately adjoining. It was doubtful Avhetlier Niza had found anything, but he had probably merely repeated the reports obtained from Cortes. Had it not been for Guzman's opposition he would now be in full possession of Cibola and the country far beyond. Everybody knew that Soto's claim was absurd, Florida being a long way off. As for Don Nufio, he was simply governor of New Galicia, and would do well to attend to his own business. Guzman, for his part, was also licensed to make northern conquistas, and had done so for many leagues. Both the lands discovered by Cortes (Santa Cruz) and Cibola were notoriously in his jurisdiction, just ad joining in fact his actual settlements. Corte"s never had any right to go north, his license being for the west, or toward India; but if he had any such right he had forfeited it by not retaining possession of the island he claimed to have discovered. He could not have made the voyage anyway without Guz man's aid; nor could Niza have gone so far north but for Guzman's earlier conquest. Alvarado figured less prominently, but he too had a license for South Sea exploration, and thought it well to keep his claim alive before the consejo. All agreed on one point, that Mendoza had 110 right to continue his efforts. The fiscal rendered an opinion that each party, being so strongly opposed, was probably wrong ! and the council at last gave 30 days to prove where Cibola was, the decision being practically in favor of the viceroy as representing the crown. ULLOA'S VOYAGE. 79 three friars in addition to the crew, sailed from Aca- pulco July 8, 1539. 12 Just before reaching Santiago the Santa Agueda broke her mast in a storm and the fleet did not leave this port till the 23d of August. The details of Ulloa's voyage have for the most part no geographical importance, as but very few of the points mentioned can be identified; yet as the first exploration of the gulf to its head, the voyage has a certain degree of historic value, and I therefore con dense the details in a note. 13 The Santo Tomds having been lost on the Culiacan coast, the other two vessels 12 There is no doubt about this date. The many errors of different writers need not therefore be noticed here. 13 Sailed from Santiago Aug. 23d; Sto Tomds lost Aug. 27th-8th, and the others driven to Guayabal; thence across to Sta Cruz, which they left Sept. 12th. Two days across to Rio S. Pedro y S. Pablo, having an island in front 4-5 miles out; 15 leagues up the coast to two large rivers two 1. apart; 18 1. to large lagoons and shallows; 171. passing a bay of 4-5 1. ; 161.; at noon next day a cape of white sand on a level coast in 29 45' named C. Rojo; near by was a river forming a lagoon, and several other rivers; next day a fine port with two entrances in a fine country (Guaymas?); two days and a half or 40 1. to many islands on the left, also Cape Llagas; 30 1. to where the coasts were only 121. apart with two islands in the middle 4 1. apart; a river seemed to enter here; 50 1. of sandy and barren shores; water chalky white, high mount ains to be seen in the N. w. ; 10 1. to where the water was black and turbid and only 5 fathoms deep; crossed over to western shore where depth w r as still less; a strong flux and reflux of the waters every six hours, the sea appearing to flow into and from a lagoon, or else there was a great river; viewed from the mast-head the shores seemed to unite at a distance of 1 league; posses sion was taken, apparently on the California side. Down western coast a few leagues to a large port on a mountainous coast, having an island in front; passed between a mountainous island and the coast into port S. Andre's (Gomara and Venegas seem to locate this port at the head of the gulf); between coast and another island over 180 1. in circumference 1 or 2 1. out; Oct. llth, another large island (Tortuga?) on left and a great bay on right; Oct. 13th in a fine bay surrounded by mountains, with two small islands and rivers; Oct. 16th, a cape with high mountains near Sta Cruz (La Paz); Oct. 18th, entered Sta Cruz; sailed Oct. 29th; Nov. 10th, they were 54 1. from California (from Sta Cruz?) and saw the Pearl Island; vessels separated 3 clays; Nov. 18th, 70 1. from Sta Cruz; Nov. 24th, vessels sepa rated; land seen in the N. w. ^ Nov. 26th they met near a lagoon 30 1. in circumference (Magdalena B., Navarretc] with a deep narrow channel, near a mountain; fight with Indians Nov. 29th (or Dec. 2d); Dec. 4th, sailed 8-10 1. to a fine port S. Abad with rivers (Magdalena B., Burney Sta Marta B., Navarrete); 20 1. farther lost anchors, and driven back to the lagoon (or to S. Abad); Dec. 17th, to Pt Trin idad (on Margarita Isl., Navarrete) and thence to where the anchors were lost, 35 1. from the lagoon; 63 1. farther by Jan. 1, 1540, to a point in front of several high mountains; 35 1. in five days to Cedros Isl., large and inhabited, the chief of the S. Stephano group of three, possession taken Jan. 22d; ad vanced 18 1. but driven back; several vain attempts to go farther north until Mar. 24th; Sta Ayueda sent back April 5th; April 18th arrived at Santiago. These details are from Preciado's account in Ramusio. 80 NIZA, ULLOA, COEONADO, AND ALARCON. after crossing over to Santa Cruz followed up the Sonora coast, entering probably the port now called Guaymas, noting the numerous islands a little above, and finally reaching a point near the mouth of the Colorado where the low sandy shores seemed to unite about a league off. It was the opinion of most of the officers that they did so unite, forming a gulf and making Santa Cruz a part of the main. 14 The 18th of October, having passed down the peninsula coast, the fleet anchored in Santa Cruz Bay. Rounding the cape in November, Ulloa con tinued up the outer coast, entered probably Magda- lena Bay, was wounded in a battle with the natives, and remained from January to April at or near Cedros Island, since known as Cerros. Thence he made sev eral ineffectual attempts to sail northward, but accord ing to the diary 15 the farthest point reached was only about eighteen leagues above the island. The map made by Domingo Castillo in 1541, from the results of this voyage only, so far as the outer coast is con cerned, names the northern limit Cabo del Engano, or Cape Disappointment, as does also the historian 14 Below on the California coast some are said to have been disgusted at the idea of making so long a voyage without positively settling the question; but this doubt was in relation to an inlet just above Sta Cruz which it was thought might be a strait. Ramusio, Navig., iii. 343. 15 Ulloa, Eelatione dello Scoprimento che nel nome di Dio va & far Varmata dcirilluttrissimo Fernando Cortese, etc. In Ramusio, Viaggi, iii. 339-54; Hakluyfs Voy., iii. 397-424. The writer was Francisco Preciado, perhaps one of the friars, but I think not, from the part he took in the fighting. Full accounts from the same source, or exhibiting a few variations of unexplained origin, are given mllerrera, dec. vi. lib. ix. cap. viii.-x. ; Sutll yMex., Viaje, xxi.-v., app. 15; Laet,Novvs Orbis, 293-7. See also Navarrete, Viaj(sAp6c., 28-9; Bernal Diaz, Hist. Verdad., 234; Gomara, Conq. Mex., 292-3; Vene- gas, Not. CaL, i. 158-60; Burners Chron. Hist. Discov., i. 193-210; Clavigero, Stor. CaL, 151; Cortts, Hist., 324; Cortes, Escritos, 280-1, 294-5, 303-4; Mofras, Explor., i. 93-4; Purchas, His Pilgrimes, v. 856; Galvano, in Voy. Select., 43; Cavo, Tres Siglos, i. 123, 128; Beaumont, Cr6n. Mich., iv. 142-3; Salazar y Olarte, Hit. Conq. Mex., 450; Broicne's L. CaL, 15-16; Greenhow's Mem., 26-7; Id., Or. and CaL, 56-7; TuthUVs Hist. CaL, 9; Gotffriedt, Neive Welt, 605-7; Montanus, N. Weereld, 205-7; Id., N. Welt, 232-4; Mora, in Soc. Mex. Geofj., ix. 311; Gordon's N. Amer., 92; Gleeson's Hist. Cath. Ch.. i. 68-9; Hiiies* Voy., 349; Findlay's Directory; DomenecJi's Deserts, i. 225-6; Farn- ham's Life in CaL, 124-5; Fedix, rOregon, 55; Forbes' CaL, 9; Larenaudiere, Mex. Guat., 151; Hutching* 1 Mag., iii. 4CO; Murray's Hist. Trav., ii. 68; Poussin, rOregon, 18-19; Ruschenbcrger, Voy., ii. 424; Taylor, in CaL Farmer, April 18, 1864; Tytler's Hist. Discov., 70-3; Frost's Half Hours, 110-19. FATE OF ULLOA. 81 Gomara. 16 At last, on April 5th, the vessels parted company, the Santa Agueda, the weaker of the two, being sent back under command of the chief pilot to report to Cortes. She arrived at Santiago April 18th, remained a few days, and then went south. 17 Of Ulloa's voyage on the Trinidad after the separa tion absolutely nothing is known. It is probable that he never returned, the only original evidence to CASTILLO'S MAP, 1541. the contrary being the statement of Bernal Diaz that he came back to Jalisco, where he was soon waylaid and killed by one of his own men. 18 16 Map published by Lorenzana in Cortes, Hist., 328. The author also went with Alarcon in 1540, but did not in that voyage visit the western coast of the peninsula. 17 This must have been the occasion already referred to (note 11 of this chapter) when the messenger to Cortes was tortured by Maldonado acting under Mendoza's orders. Cortes states further, Escrltos, 303-4, that the vessel, having lost her boat and anchors, was obliged to enter the port of Guatulco, when the crew were seized and the vessel was lost. ls //i.s'. Verdad., 234. Mofras, Explor., i. 83-4, says Ulloa came back to Acapulco in May 1540. HIST. N. Mzx. STATES, VOL. I. 6 82 NIZA, ULLOA, CORONADO, AND ALARCOtf. It should be noted here that the name California was first applied to the region before known as Santa Cruz in the narrative of Ulloa's voyage. It was ap plied to a locality, probably that of Santa Cruz itself, though this is not quite certain; and it was soon ex tended to the whole peninsula. The origin of the name afforded grounds for much conjecture, no evi dence beyond conjecture being adduced, until the truth was known. The most plausible theory was that the name was a corruption of some imperfectly understood native Avords; another being that it was deliberately formed by Cortes and his associates from Latin or Greek roots. In 1862 Edward E. Hale dis covered the source from which the name was obtained in an old romance, the Sergas de Esplandian by Or donez de Montalvo, popular among the adventurers of the time of Cortes, and in which was mentioned an island of California "on the right hand of the Indies, very near the terrestrial paradise." There is no evidence respecting the circumstances under which the name was given, nor is any likely ever to be found. It was given between 1535 and 1539, and not by Cortes, for he never even used the name. It will be remembered that Ulloa was left on the peninsula in command of the colony in 1536; and I hazard the conjecture that the place of their sufferings, or pos sibly one of the islands in the vicinity, was named California by the disgusted colonists on their depar ture, as a term of ridicule. This may be the reason that Don Hernan never wrote the name. I treat the general subject somewhat more fully elsewhere. 19 Governor Coronado received Niza's report, de spatched Melchor Diaz and Juan de Zaldivar with fifteen men to verify it, and hastened to Mexico to raise an army for the conquest of Cibola and its seven cities. At the capital the friar scattered his marvellous tales broadcast; he was made provincial of 19 See Hist. Cal, i. 64-8, this series. VAZQUEZ DE CORONADO. 83 the Franciscans and thus was secured the earnest cooperation of that order. Coronado affected secrecy and mystery the better to excite popular interest. Mendoza, no less enthusiastic, lent to the scheme the full aid of his influence and authority. The response was as immediate and satisfactory as had been those to the calls of Guzman in 1529 and of Cortes in 1539, notwithstanding the disastrous termination of both expeditions. Three hundred Spaniards, including many gentlemen of good family and high rank, with ei< r ht hundred Indian allies were enlisted without O difficulty. Mendoza wished at first to take command in person, but the state of affairs in Mexico making this impracticable Coronado was made cap tain -general of the expedition. He had the entire confidence of the viceroy, and was at this time popular with his men; though it appears that he had no real military authority over many of his gentleman officers, who were bound only by their promise. Mendoza went to Cornpostela, and cheered the army by a parting address in February 1540. A maritime expedition under Pedro de Alarcon was to cooperate with the army, but as there was no communication between the two branches, the voyage will be noticed later. At Chametla, Lope de Samaniego, the maestre de campo, who it will be remembered had served under Guzman and had been first to reach the Petatlan River, having imprudently entered a pueblo with but few companions, was killed by the natives. His death was much regretted, and was terribly avenged by the hanging of such inhabitants of the town and vicinity as could be caught. Here also Diaz and Zaldivar joined the army, coming back from a preliminary ex ploration undertaken from San Miguel in the preced ing November by Coronado's order. They had followed Niza's route and reached Chichilticale, perhaps on the Gila River, but had found little or nothing to justify the padre provincial's glowing statements. Their report was made secretly, but its purport leaked out, 84 NIZA, ULLOA, COROXADO, AND ALARCON. and it required all Coronado's zeal and renewed assev erations by Niza to revive the hopes of the army. 20 After fifteen days of rest and preparation at San Miguel, 21 the general, taking with him fifty horsemen, a few foot-soldiers, his best friends, and all the friars, started northward about the middle of April, leaving the main army under Captain Tristan de Arellano with instructions to follow fifteen or twenty days later and to await further orders at the valley of Corazones. The advance was slow, difficulties of the way being much greater than they had been rep resented, although the natives were always friendly. Late in May he reached the valley of Corazones, where he learned that the coast was five days distant, that seven or eight inhabited islands lay opposite, and that a ship had been seen to pass. Next he marched to Chichilticale, the "red house," probably the structure since known as the Casa Grande on the Gila, then as now a roofless ruin. 22 The 23d of June 20 Mendoza, in a letter dated Jacona (Mich.), April 17, 1540, Ter>;aux-Com~ pans, Voy., surie i. torn. ix. 291-8, says that Diaz was stopped by extreme cold more than 100 leagues beyond Culiacan, and found it impossible to reach Cibola, but acquired much information from the Indians about that province, and sent back Zaldivar with a letter to the viceroy which was received March 20th. Both Diaz and Zaldivar doubtless returned to Chametla, whence the latter was sent south with the letter. Mendoza's return to Mexico was de layed by an attack of fever in Colima. The standard and original authorities on Coronado's expedition are: Gets- taneda, Relation du Voyage de Cibola; Coronado, Relation del Suceso de la Jornada, by an unknown writer; Jarami/lo, Relation que did el Capitan; and several printed letters of Coronado and Meiidoza. Mota-Padilla gives some unimportant details from unknown sources not the preceding; most of the early chroniclers devote considerable space to the subject; and many modern writers have given their versions and comments. Interest in the expedition, however, centres in the far north, and for bibliographical details and a list of authorities I refer the reader to Hist. N. Max. and Ariz., this series. 21 According to Frcjes, Hist. Breve, 115-17, Coronado sent troops from Culiacan to S. Sebastian de Coras (?) and hanged 150 natives for no offence. This may be a reference to the affairs at Chametla. The author is very bitter against Coronado. 22 Jaramillo gives more details of the route: From the Rio Sinaloa (Fuerte), five days to Cedros Creek; three days to the Rio Yaqui; three days to a creek on which were straw huts; two days to the creek and pueblo of Corazones. Through a kind of pass to the valley of Seiiora (Sonora), on the same creek; one clay along the creek to Ispa; four days through a desert to Nexpa Creek (Sta Cruz River, tiimpson, 325. Gila River, Squier in Amer. Rev., Nov. 1846, 6); two days down this creek, turned to right and followed Chichilticale Mts. for two days, N. E. ; crossed the mountains to a stream in a deep cauada; CORONADO'S EXPEDITION. 85 lie entered the country beyond and directed his course north-eastward. Fifteen days later he was on the Rio Vermejo, or Rio cle Lino, now the Colorado Chiquito; and about the 10th of July he came in sight of the famous towns of Cibola. The one first approached, and named Granada, was built on a high rocky mesa accessible at one point only. It doubtless stood where now are seen the ruins of Old Zuiii. Particulars of Coronado's further explorations, though interesting, important, and somewhat com plicated, belong obviously to the annals of Arizona* and New Mexico. An outline is all that is required here. 23 During his stay of five months at Cibola with his advance guard, Coronado sent Captain Tobar to Tusayan, or the Moqui towns, Captain Cardenas to the great canon of the Colorado farther west, and Captain Alvarado far east to Cicuye, or Pecos, in New Mexico. In December, the main army under Arellano having meanwhile arrived from the south to join him, Coronado marched east and went into winter quarters in the province of Tiguex, or country of the Tiguas, in the valley of the Rio Grande del Norte, near the mouth of the Puerco. The natives were well disposed at first, but outrageous oppression soon made them hostile, and the winter was spent in war. The natives of Tiguex were defeated, but left their pueblos and would not submit. In May 1541 Coro nado crossed the river and started out into the plains north-eastward in search of great towns and precious metals reported to exist in that direction. One divi sion of the army returned to Tiguex in July and Coronado himself in September. He had penetrated as he believed to 40, and had very likely reached Kansas between the Arkansas and Missouri rivers. The limit was a province called Quivira, and though three days N. E. to Rio S. Juan (June 24th); two days N. to Rio de las Bal sas; two short days N. E. to Barranca Creek; one day to Rio Frio; one day, through a pine forest, to a creek; two days N. E. to Rio Vermejo; two days to Cibola. 23 See Hist. N. Mex. and Ariz., this series, for full details. 86 NIZA, ULLOA, CORONADO, AND ALARCOK he found a populous country and large villages of wigwams, there were no gold and silver, no powerful kingdoms, no advanced civilization. It should be noted, however, that popular belief in the wealth of Quivira increased notwithstanding Coronado's failure, so that the place played a prominent part in later con jectures and reasonings about what must exist in the far north. Moreover by a strange error, apparently of the historian Gomara, Quivira and most of Coro nado's discoveries were soon transferred to the northern Pacific coast, where they figured on maps for many years. Meanwhile expeditions were also sent far down the Rio Grande and up as far as Taos. In the spring of 1542, when ready for a new campaign, Coronado was seriously injured in a tournament, and on con valescence determined, against the will of his officers, to give up the expedition. Some friars were left behind, who were afterward killed, and in April the return march was begun. At Chichilticale Captain Gallego was met, with a small reenforcement from Mexico and Culiacan. His march had been through hostile tribes who resisted every step, and his exploits gave him great fame as an Indian-fighter. The chronicler believes that with his little company of twenty-two men Gallego would have gone on and penetrated the rich country de scribed by El Turco. Here the gentlemen renewed their requests for a further prosecution of the con quest; but neither the leader nor the army would listen to their pleadings; at least the latter would not, for Coronado seems to have lost all real control. The march homeward through Sonora was marked by several encounters with the natives, and by the dis covery of an antidote for the poisoned arrows. At Culiacan the army arrived in a sad state of insubordi nation. Coronado, still unwell, was unable to make his authority respected either as commander or as gov ernor of the province, and it was only with much diffi culty and by a lavish distribution of gifts and promises SETTLEMENT OF SAN GER6NIMO. 87 that the army was induced to accompany him to Mexico.' 24 This last stage of the return was begun late in June, and after a difficult march, during which the soldiers were constantly deserting, the sick cap tain-general arrived in the capital with barely a hun dred men. 25 He was coldly received at first by the viceroy, who was naturally much disappointed at the failure of his grand scheme of conquest; but his explanations seem to have been finally accepted as satisfactory, he was honorably discharged from his command, and as soon as his health would permit' resumed his duties as governor of New Galicia. I have now to note the progress of events in the territory since called Sonora, during Coronado's stay in New Mexico from 1540 to 1542. Arellano in com mand of Coronado's main force had left San Miguel in April 1540 and marched to Corazones Valley. 28 Here he began the foundation of a town to be named San Ger6nimo; but the site was soon changed to the vaWey of Senor, or Senora, perhaps the original form of the name Sonora, still applied to the valley as to the state. The site was probably in the region be tween the modern Hermosillo and Arizpe, but all details of exact location in the different authorities are hopelessly confused. Captain Maldonado was sent 24 From' Culiacan each one went where he pleased. Coronado, Relation, 154. 25 Gomara, Hist. Tnd., 274. Venegas, Not. Cat., i. 167-9, and others date the arrival in Mexico as March 1542. 26 ' My idea is, that the town of Corazones on the Sonora River, was Sonora, so called because it was eminently the town of the province of corazones, in which it was situated; that San Hieronimo de los Corazones was situated ac cording to Coronado 10 or 12 1. from the sea, and. . .401. from Sonora, on the Suj-a River; which would place it. . .on a river which is now called S. Ignacio.' Simpson, in Smithsonian Kept., 1869/325. Possibly the above was clear to Mr S. San Ger6nimo, 12 1. from the later town of Sonora. Mota-Padilla, Conq. N. Gal., 163. The valle del Senor was that of the San Miguel River. Whippfe in Pac. /?. R. Re.pt., iii. 108-12. Corazones Valley probably on Mulatos Rio, where Yecora lies. Alegre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, i. 237. Senora Valley 10 1. beyond Corazones. Coronado, Relation, 147-8. Corazones in the lower part of Senora Valley. Castaneda, 157. According to Benavides, Re- qveste, 109-10, Corazones was the first pueblo in Seuora Valley, and 6 1. beyond was the larger pueblo of Agastan, a name which I find nowhere else. 88 NIZA, ULLOA, COROXADO, AND ALARCOtf. down the river to the gulf in the hope of finding a port or meeting Alarcon's fleet, but accomplished neither object. In October captains Diaz and Gal- lego arrived at San Geronimo from the north, having been despatched by Coronado from Cibola. Diaz was to remain in command at the new settlement with eighty men, and to put himself if possible in commu nication with Alarcon. Gallego was to proceed to Mexico with reports for the viceroy, and Arellano with the main force was to join the general at Cibola, as he did in December. Leaving Diego de Alcaraz in command at San Geronimo, Melchor Diaz soon started with twenty- five picked men, and Indian guides, in search of Alar- con. He probably went down the river to the gulf and thence proceeded north-westwardly, not far from the coast. We have no particulars of the march, esti mated at a hundred and fifty leagues, until he reached the region about the mouth of the Colorado, a river named by Diaz Rio del Tizon from the custom of the natives of carrying a fire-brand with which to warm themselves, and which was perfectly understood by the Spaniards to be the same river discovered nearer its source by Cardenas from Cibola and the Moqui towns. The natives were so large and strong, it is gravely stated, that one of them easily bore upon his head a burden which six Spaniards could not move. On reaching the river, Diaz heard that the vessels had been seen below, and after travelling three days to a point which he considered fifteen leagues from the mouth, he found letters from Alarcon, buried at the foot of a tree. The letters announced the voyager's return to New Spain and his discovery that California was not an island. The party then went up the river for five or six days in search of a ford. They finally crossed on rafts in the country of a hostile tribe who plotted their destruction, but whose plans were dis covered and circumvented. There is no evidence that Diaz went above the mouth of the Gila. After cross- MELCHOR DIAZ. 89 ing ho proceeded down the river and coast for an un known distance, reaching a region where the ground is said to have been so hot and trembling as to be impassable. Finally, in attempting to drive away a dog which was worrying the sheep brought for food, he threw his lance, and, his horse still running, was pierced in the thigh by the weapon which had stuck point uppermost in the ground. He was carried back toward San Geronirno for twenty days, but died before his party arrived there early in 154 1. 27 Alcaraz at once sent to Coronado the report of Diaz's death, with the further information that the natives were hostile, the soldiers mutinous, and the prospects of the colony bad. Captain Tobar was sent south from Tiguex, and on his arrival caused the arrest of some of the worst native chieftains; but Alcaraz freed them for a ransom of cloth. As soon as their chiefs were released the Indians attacked the Spaniards and killed seventeen with poisoned arrows before they could regain the settlement. Tobar now changed again the site of San Geronimo, transferring it forty leagues northward to the valley of Suya, perhaps identical with the Rio San Ignacio of modern maps, in the vicinity of Magdalena. About August 1541 Tobar returned to Tiguex, and is said to have taken with him the best of the soldiers, leaving the most unmanage able at San Geronimo. In the spring of 1542, when Captain Cardenas arrived from the north he found the town empty. Before its final abandonment most of the remaining force had deserted and fled toward Culiacan under Pedro de Avila. Of the deserters some were killed by the savages, others were detained by Saavedra at San Miguel, and the rest fled toward Mexico. The natives took advantage of the colony's 27 Mota-Padilla, Conq. N. Gal, 158-9, says that Diaz after crossing the river travelled four days, found no people, and resolved to return; on the re turn he was wounded by the shaft and not the point of the lance; and died Jan. 18th. According to Coronado, Relation, 149, he crossed the river 30 1. from its mouth, travelled westward 5 or 6 days, returned for want of water, and was killed during the return. 90 NIZA, ULLOA, COROXADO, AND ALARCON. defenceless condition to renew their hostilities. One morning they suddenly attacked and took the town, killed Alcarazand several other Spaniards, with many native servants, cattle, and horses, and retired laden with booty. The survivors 28 started on foot next day for Culiacan, where they finally arrived after having been succored on the way by the ever faithful natives of Corazones. Coronado on his return march found the natives still hostile, but disposed to keep out of the way, and he seems to have made no stop at the deserted San Geronimo. Thus unfortunate were the earliest attempts to settle the territory of Sonora. In connection with Coronado's expedition, Her- nando de Alarcon, chamberlain of the viceroy as Bernal Diaz asserts, w r as ordered to proceed up the coast by water, to carry supplies and otherwise coop erate with the army. Alarcon's instructions were made with a knowledge of Ulloa's explorations, and of the probability of having to ascend a river in order to reach the prescribed latitude of 36. Still, as no river had been seen and nothing whatever of its course was known, it is somewhat remarkable that so much confidence was felt in the meeting of the land and sea forces. With the San Pedro and Santa Catalina, the latter in command of Marcos Ruiz de Rojas, Alarcon sailed, probably from Acapulco, 29 May 9, 1540. At San tiago, in Colima, having repaired the damages result ing from a gale, he took on board additional men waiting there and directed his course to Guayabal, or the port of San Miguel. Here he learned that Coro nado had already left Culiacan, and also found the San Gabriel, laden with provisions for the army. Hence the fleet of three vessels sailed up the coast, 28 Alegre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, i. 237-8, says that of 40 only a priest and four men escaped; also that the revolt was caused by the outrages of Alcaraz. 29 The port is not named in the dia^y. Simpson, Smithsonian Kept., 1869, 315-16, says Natividad, but this is not consistent with his touching later at Santiago. VOYAGE OF ALARCON. 91 noting, as is claimed, several harbors not seen by Ulloa, to the shoals near the head of the gulf where Ulloa had turned back. Alarcon's men wished to return, also the shoals seemed impassable, but he sent out the pilots Nicolds Zamorano and Domingo del Castillo, who found a passage, through which, after grounding and narrowly escaping wreck, the vessels were brought and anchored at the mouth of the river. August 26th two boats, one of them having on board Alarcon, Rodrigo Maldonado the treasurer, and Gaspar del Castillo the contador, with twenty men, started up the river, towing being necessary at times by reason of the rapid current. The natives soon made their appearance in constantly increasing numbers; at first hostile and menacing, so that Alar- con had often to retire to the middle of the stream, but gradually becoming appeased and consenting to an exchange of gifts. After a few days, persuaded that the Spaniards were children of the sun, they brought food in great abundance, volunteered to aid in towing the boats, and finally consented to make Alarcon their chief if he would remain. The narra tive of the voyage is for the most part filled with unimportant particulars of attempted conversations with the Indians, and efforts to learn something of Coronado. Most of Marcos de Niza's names were unknown to the natives, who nevertheless gratified their visitors with not a few tales of grand rivers, mountains of copper, powerful chieftains, and tradi tions of bearded white men, which they or their ancestors had heard of some time and somewhere. One or more 'old men' usually accompanied Alarcon in the boat, keeping him supplied with these vagaries; and they talked also of an old woman, Quatazaca, who lived without eating on a lake, or near the sea, or by a mountain, in the country where copper bells were made. Natives were met who had been at Cibola, and 92 NIZA, ULLOA, CORONADO, AND ALARCON. who seemed to have some knowledge of Niza's visit and the fate of the negro Estevanico. At one place the natives were found to be greatly excited because two of their number had brought fr >m Cibola the news that white men had again made their appear ance there. Alarcon calmed their fears by the assur ance that those at Cibola were like his own men, children of the sun, and would do the Indians no harm. It was proposed to send messengers to Cibola, the distance, or rather that part of it lying in an uninhabited country, being represented as only ten days' journey; but none of the officers would volun teer to make the attempt, and the natives excused themselves from furnishing supplies and guides, wish ing the Spaniards to remain and help them conquer their foes of Cumana. Quicama, and Coana are the only places named on the river, and respecting their location nothing definite is stated. Early in September the boats started down the river, reaching the ships in two days and a half. There is absolutely nothing in the narrative, beyond the last statements, on which to found an opinion as to how far Alarcon went up the Colorado on this trip; but after some preparations for careening and repair ing the San Pedro, he started again, thinking that Coronado might in the mean time have heard of his presence in the country. He started September 14th and went up again to Quicama and Coana. At the latter place he met a Spaniard who had been left there in the first trip, and who had been kindly treated. Farther up an enchanter from Cumana planted reeds on the banks, which by their magical power were to stop the progress of the boats, but failed to do so. At the home of the last ' old man ' who served as guide, Alarcon erected a cross, buried at its foot letters for Coronado or others who might find them, and having received a message from tfre chief of Cumana declining to visit the Spaniards, started to return to the gulf. ON THE COLORADO RIVER. 93 Before turning back Alarcon says he passed a place where the river flowed between high mountains; he states also that he went eighty-five leagues which may mean any distance from 100 to 250 miles up the river; and further that he advanced four degrees beyond the latitude reached by Ulloa. The mountain pass with a medium estimate of distance would seem to indicate a part of the Colorado above the Gila and below Bill Williams Fork; but Melchor Diaz found Alarcon's letters two months later at a distance which he estimated to be only fifteen leagues from the mouth, so that if these were the only letters deposited, Alarcon's statement of distance is grossly exagger ated. It may also be noted that he mentions no stream corresponding to the Gila, as he would natu rally have done had he passed its mouth. 30 The name Buena Guia was given to the river from a part of the motto on Mendoza's coat-of-arms, and on the shore, near the mouth, at a place called La Cruz, a kind of chapel was built and dedicated to Our Lady of Buena Guia. The return was in Octo ber or November probably, and the fleet touched at several points on the coast during the voyage south ward. At the port of Colima, probably Natividad, 31 Pedro de Alvarado was found with his fleet. He attempted to exercise some authority over Alarcon, who, after delivering to Luis de Castilla and Agustin Guerrero his narrative of the voyage, 32 sailed away in the darkness of the night "to avoid scandal." 30 Venegas, Not. CaL, i. 170-1, and other writers say that Alarcon reached 36. This comes from his instructions or from the statement that he went 4 farther than Ulloa. 31 Venegas, Not. CaL, i. 170-1, says Purificacion. 3 -This narrative, Alarcon, Relations delta Naviaatione < Scoperta che fece il Capitano Fernando Alarcone, etc., sent to the viceroy from Colima, seems to be the only original authority on this voyage. It was translated and published in Ramusio, NavKj., iii. 363-70; Maklui/t's Voy., iii. 425-39, and Ternaux-Compans, Voy., se"rie i. torn. ix. 299-348. Herrera, dec. vi. lib. ix. cap. xiii.-xv., also gives the narrative nearly in full. Alarcon in tended to write a more complete account, but probably never did so. Alarcon and Ulloa, Relation del Armada, in Col. Doc. Incd., iv. 218, is a brief and un important narrative of both expeditions. For copy of the map made by Cas tillo, one of Alarcon's pilots, see p. 81 of this volume. Other references are as 94 NIZA, ULLOA, CORONADO, AND ALARCON. Most writers state that Mendoza was exceedingly displeased at Alarcon's want of success, though it is not easy to understand in what respect he failed to carry out the spirit of his instructions. Torquemada affirms that one cause of Mendoza's dissatisfaction was that fuller reports of the voyage were sent to the king than to himself, and that Alarcon claimed the honor that was due to the viceroy. He says further that Alarcon retired in great disgrace and sorrow to Cuer- navaca, where he fell sick and died. But the current statements on this subject are doubtless erroneous, for there are extant, and bearing date of May 31, 1541, instructions 33 from Mendoza to Alarcon for a second voyage and a new attempt to communicate with Cor- onado and with Melchor Diaz, whose departure from San Geronimo was already known. In the document 34 Alarcon is spoken of as the discoverer of the Buena Guia, of which river he is ordered to make further explorations, as also of an estero said to exist at the head of the gulf. 35 Another proposed voyage is men tioned, probably to be directed up the outer or Pacific coast, under Zuniga, with whom Alarcon was to com municate if possible. From another document 36 we follows: Torquemada, i. 608-9; Bernal Diaz, Hist. Verdad., 235-6; Vene- yas, Not. CaL, i. 170-1; Salmeron, in Doc. Hint. Mex., serie iii. torn. iv. 6; Purchas, His Pilgrimes, v. 856-7; Cavo, Tres Sirjlos, i. 129; Cortes, Hist., 325; Florida, Col. Doc., i. 1-6; Beaumont, Cron. Mich., iv. 318; Calle, Not. Sac., 108; Galvano, in Voy. Select., 46; Sutil y Mex., Viaje, xxviii.; Gall at in, in N. A. Voy., cxxxi. 255-8; Camarr/o, in Id., xcix. 187-8; Whipple's Report, 112-13; Simpson's Coronado's March, 315-16; Burners Chron. Hist., i. 211- 16; Browne's L. CaL, 16-17; Greenhoiv's Mem., 29; Id., Or. and CaL, 58-9; Bartlelfs Pars. Nar., ii. 168-82; March y Labores, Marina Espan., ii. 222-7; Montanus, N. Weereld, 210; Meline's Two Thousand Miles, 138; Taylor, in CaL Farmer, Feb. 21, 28, April 4, 18, 1862; Findlarfs Directory, i.; Frifjnet, La CaL, 7; Poussin, VOregon, 235; Gleeson's Hist. Cath. Ch., i. 66-70; Ives* Col. Riv., 19; Laet, Novvs Orbis, 305-6; Marchand, Voy., i. viii.; Mofrax, Explor., i. 95; MMlhausen, Reisen, i. 113; Id., Tacjebuch, 405-8; Murray's Hist. Trav., ii. 73-8; Payno, in Soc. Mex. Geog., ii. 199. 33 Florida, Col. Doc., i. 1-6. 31 Taylor, BroivnSs L. CaL, 16-17, seems to have noticed this document, but becomes very much confused in its use. applying it to the first voyage which he represents as having begun May 31, 1541. 35 This is doubtless the Brazo de Miraflores laid down on Castillo's map though not mentioned in Alarcon's narrative. It perhaps corresponds with the slough extending northward from the Port Isabel of modern maps. 36 Visita d Mendoza in Icazbalceta, Col. Doc., ii. 110. PEDRO DE ALVARADO. 95 learn that three vessels were made ready for this sec ond voyage, which was prevented by the breaking-out of the Guadalajara revolt, of which more elsewhere, and during which Alarcon was stationed with thirty men at Autlan. As we have seen, Niza's reports broke off all friendly relations between Mendoza and Cortes. The latter sent out Ulloa against the viceroy's wishes. He pro tested against the fitting-out of the expeditions under Coronado and Alarcon, and prepared a new fleet after Ulloa's return. He struggled hard to maintain his prestige and authority as captain-general, and called upon the emperor to prevent Mendoza's interference with his plans. 37 His efforts proving fruitless he de termined to go in person to lay his grievances before the throne. He started early in 1540, and spent three of his remaining seven years of life in vain efforts to obtain redress. Formal courtesy at first, followed by cold neglect, was all* the satisfaction he received at court. Great injustice had been done him in the New World, and the emperor was basely ungrateful; yet in his last quarrel Cortes had an opponent in Mendoza, against whom his oft-repeated and frivolous charges are to be regarded for the most part as the ravings of a soured and disappointed old man. 33 Before Cortes went to Spain a new rival to both cap tain -general and the viceroy had entered the field of South Sea conquest in the person of Pedro de Alva- rado. His operations in the south and in Jalisco, with his licenses and plans, have been noted in suffi cient detail elsewhere. 39 In 1539 he made ready in 37 In 1539 Cortes sent commissioners to Spain with the statement that he had five vessels ready to continue Ulloa's explorations under his son D. Luis Corttfs, and that he was building four other vessels. He demanded that Men doza's expedition be prevented by royal order. Cortes, Escritos, 29G-9; Pa- checo and Cardenas, Col. Doc., xv. 317. 38 Cortes, Mem. al Emp., in Cortes, Escritos, 299-309; Id., 319-21; Cortes, Petition contra Mendoza, in Icazbalceta, Col. Doc., ii. 62-73; PrescotCs Hist. Conq. Mex., iii. 338-45; Venecjus, Not. CaL, i. 164-7. See also Hist. Mex. t ii. 474 et seq., this series. 39 See Hist. Cent. Am., ii. and Hist. Mex., ii. this series. 96 NIZA, ULLOA, CORONADO, AND ALARCON. the Guatemalan ports a fleet of a dozen vessels, the largest and most costly yet seen in the Pacific, and brought it with a large force of men to the Colima coast in 1540. Whatever his intentions at first, after Niza's reports he resolved to direct his course to the north. Mendoza instead of quarrelling with Alvarado opened , negotiations with him, which resulted in an agreement signed in November 1540, for a joint prose cution of northern discovery and conquest. Mendoza became owner of one half the fleet; Alvarado received one fifth of all profits and advantages accruing from the viceroy's expeditions under Coronado and Alarcon, while for twenty years expenses and profits were to be equally shared. 40 Don Pedro returned to the coast to superintend preparations for departure; but in the early summer of 1541, in response to an urgent appeal for aid from Acting-governor Onate, he landed his men and marched inland. He lost his life during the campaign, and his men after doing garrison duty in Jalisco during the war were disbanded and 'scattered. The death of Alvarado's wife without heirs left the entire fleet in Mendoza's possession. The Mixton war, in which Alvarado lost his life as just mentioned, raging from 1540 to 1542 during Coro- nado's absence in the far north, was the most formid able and wide-spread struggle for liberty ever made by the native races in any part of Mexico. The Jal isco tribes killed their encomenderos, abandoned their towns, and took refuge on fortified penoles, or cliffs, believed to be impregnable. At the end of 1540 Gua dalajara, already moved, to the Tacotlan Valley, was the only place north of the river and east of the sierra still held by the Spaniards. Strong forces of soldiers under different leaders were repeatedly repulsed by the native warriors. Alvarado marched rashly inland only 40 Alvarado and Mendoza, Asiento y Capttulationes. Signed in Michoacan November 29, 1540. In Pacheco and Cardenas, Col. Doc., iii. 351-62; xvi. 342-55; Mendoza, Instruc. dAyuilar. PROGRESS IN NEW GALICIA. 97 to be defeated and killed. Mendoza was alarmed for the safety not only of New Galicia but of all New Spain, and he marched north at the head of a large army. In a short but vigorous campaign he captured the peiioles one by one, by siege, by assault, by strata gem, or through the treachery of the defenders, end ing with Mixton, the strongest of all, and returned southward in 1542. Thousands of natives had been killed in battle; thousands cast themselves from the cliffs and perished; thousands were enslaved. Many escaped to the sierras of Nayarit and Zacatecas ; but the spirit of rebellion was broken forever. 41 There is little more to be said of New Galicia that concerns my present subject. The province was now explored and conquered, though there were occasional revolts on the northern frontier. The audiencia was established in 1548, and was moved with the capital about 1561 to Guadalajara, a town transferred to its modern site in consequence of the Mixton war. The president of the audiencia was governor of the prov ince, extending, after the separation of Nueva Vizcaya, to the northern lines of the modern Jalisco and Zaca tecas; and the jurisdiction of the body in judicial matters extended over the whole north. So did the bishopric founded in 1544, the see being with the capital transferred from Compostela to Guadalajara. The Franciscans had accompanied the conquerors in all their movements; and while they founded no missions of the regular type of more northern regions, they were actively engaged in the work of conversion before 1600, as were members of other orders to a slight extent. Agriculture made some progress, and stock-raising much more. Many new towns were built. Hich mines were worked, especially in Zaca tecas, where the town of that name was founded in 1548, and in favor of which region during the first excitement the rest of the province was well nigh 41 For details of the Mixton war and subsequent Nueva Galician annals see Hist. Mcx. , ii. chap. xxiv. this series. HIST. N. MEX. STATES, VOL. I. 7 98 NIZA, ULLOA, COE-ONADO, AND ALARCOK depopulated ; and again before the end of the century the southern Zacatecas mines were nearly, though temporarily, abandoned for the northern about Nom- bre de Dios, some of the explorers penetrating much farther north. Besides soldiers in active service, and miners in Zacatecas at certain times, it is not likely that there were more than five hundred Spaniards in New Galicia before 1600. CHAPTER V. ANNALS 0F NUEVA VIZCAYA. 1554-1600. y \ ZACATECAS MIXES MERCADO'S SILVER MOUNTAIN IBARRA'S PRIVATE EX PLORATIONS MENDOZA AND THE FRANCISCANS IBARRA AS GOVERNOR PROVINCE OF NUEVA VIZCAYA EXPEDITION AT SAN JUAN FOUNDING OF NOMBRE DE DlOS AND DURANGO To COPALA OR TOPIA GRAND REPORTS INDE AND SANTA BARBARA MINES MARCH TO SINALOA VILLA OF SAN JUAN TOUR IN THE FAR NORTH CITY OF PAGME SAN SEBASTIAN DE CHAMETLA DEATH OF IBARRA PROGRESS IN DURANGO LIST OF GOVERNORS ANNALS OF SINALOA MURDER OF FRIARS VILLA ABANDONED MONTOYA'S EXPEDITION BAZAN'S ENTRADA SAN FELIPE DE SINALOA FRANCISCAN CONVENTS FOUR MARTYRS ARLEGUI'S CHRONICLE JESUIT ANNALS IN SINALOA THE AN UAS MARTYRDOM OF FATHER TAPIA IN TOPIA TEPEHUANE MISSIONS SANTA MARIA DE PARRAS EXPLORATION AND CONQUEST OF NEW MEXICO. AFTER the Mixton war the wild tribes of the frontier, corresponding to the northern parts of the modern state of Zacatecas, continued their hostilities to some extent until their subjugation by peaceful means was authorized by viceroy and king. After several minor efforts by Oiiate and others, Juan de Tolosa with a few Spaniards, friars, and natives reached the Bufa mountain in 1 5 46, and soon succeeded in pacifying and converting the savage inhabitants, who in return revealed the existence of rich silver lodes. Tolosa was joined in 1548 by Onate, Banue- los, and Diego de Ibarra; the rich mines of San Bernabe, San Benito, Panuco, and others were dis covered and worked. The town of Zacatecas was founded, and a mining rush to this region well nigh depopulated other parts of New Galicia. In 1552 (99) 100 ANNALS OF NUEVA VIZCAYA. Gines Vazquez de Mercado marched into the regions to the north, but was defeated and wounded in a battle near Sombrerete, after Avhich for a time no entradas were authorized by the government. Two years after Mercado's failure, however, Francisco de Ibarra began a series of exploring and prospecting tours by which in eight years he brought to light the mineral deposits of Fresnillo, San Martin, Sombrerete, Nieves, and many others up to and beyond the line of the modern Zacatecas. So rich were these mines and so liberal the policy of Ibarra and his associates that before the end of the century the southern dis tricts in their turn were nearly abandoned for a time. 1 Mercado's entry in 1552 had been in search of a mountain of silver, which he did not find. The foundation of the reports which attracted him was not improbably the famous iron mountain still bearing the fortune-hunter's name near the city of Durango.' 2 The annals of the region beyond the line of the modern Durango begin with Ibarra's explorations of 155462, which covered a broad territory arid brought to light many mines, but which, being private enterprises, are not recorded so far as details are concerned. It does not appear that these private explorations, how ever, extended beyond the limits of what is now Durango. In one of Ibarra's earliest tours he was accompanied by the Franciscan Geronimo de Mendoza, who from the mining camp of San Martin went on with one sol dier into unexplored territory, and began missionary work on the Rio Suchil, meeting with much success, and soon calling upon his provincial for assistance. In 1 For further particulars on Zacatecas annals down to 1600 see Hist. ii., this series. ' 2 On this mountain a mass of magnetic iron ore 900 by 1,900 varas and C8G varas high, containing 460,000 tons of metal assaying 20 or 75 per cent of 5 u re iron see Ferreriade Dtiranfjo, in Dice. Univ.,im. 334-40; Mota-PcuWla, list. N. Gal., 203; Beaumont, Crdn. Mich., v. 231-2; Weidner in Soc. Max. GCOQ., Bol, vi. 60; Escudero, Not. Dur., 8-9; Frcjes, Hist. Breve., 127-9; Museo Mtx. y i. 28-34. IBARRA'S EXPEDITIONS. 101 155G Mendoza was joined by three friars, Pedro de Espinareda, Diego de la Cadena, and Jacinto de San Francisco, with a young donado, or assistant, named Lucas. About the same time Mendoza departed for Spain. Meanwhile, or a little later, there were troubles with the natives, but Ibarra came to the rescue, pre- NUEVA YIZCAYA, 1600. venting an abandonment of the work, and not only pacifying the Indians but collecting many of them into a mission community. The site was fixed after one or two transfers, and a church built w r here Nombre de Dios now stands; indeed the establishment was proba bly known as San Francisco del Nombre de Dios even at this early date. A few Spanish settlers seem to 102 ANNALS OF NUEVA VIZCAYA. have gathered here, and there are indications even of some irregular steps by Martin Perez, the alcalde of Zacatecas, toward the founding of a town. 3 It appears also that Father Cadena and Lucas, before 1562, ex tended their missionary labors northward to the Gua- diana Valley, where Durango was founded later, still working in connection with Ibarra's mining explora tions. 4 About 1561 Francisco de Ibarra, by reason of his past services, and by the influence of his uncle Don Diego of Zacatecas, who had married the viceroy's daughter, was commissioned as governor and captain- general to conquer and rule the northern regions not yet subjected to Spanish dominion. A reported wealthy province of Copala was the particular object of the viceroy's project, which he had entertained for some years, but had hitherto found no opportunity of carrying out.. But soon the name of Nueva Vizcaya. or New Biscay, was applied by Ibarra in honor of his native province in Spain. The original commission and other documents are not extant so far as I know ; therefore exact dates, names, and boundaries cannot be given. The line of Nueva Vizcaya, however, was practically that which now separates Jalisco and Zaca tecas from Sinaloa and Durango. It was probably intended to confine the new province to territory east of the main sierra; but Ibarra was able to extend his authority over the coast provinces as well, on the 3 1553 is given by some as the date of Mendoza's arrival at Ojo de Berros, but there is no reason to doubt that he came with the party that discovered San Martin, that the discoverer was Ibarra, or that his operations began in 1554. Ibarra, Relation, 464; Durancjo, Doc. Hist., MS., 97-103; Morfi, Diario, 340-1; Arkfjui, Crdn. Zac., 30-40; 'Beaumont, Cron. Mich., v. 503-4; Torque- mada, iii. 344. Father Mendoza was a native of Vitoria, Alava, Spain, and a nephew of the viceroy of the same name. He came with his uncle to Mexico, and was captain of the viceregal guard before he became a Franciscan. He came north in 1553, being sent to use his influence in quelling disturbances among the Zacatecas miners. He died at Madrid. Ramirez, Not. Hist. , 10-1 1 ; Arlegui, Crdn. Zac., 22, 257-64. 4 Arlegui, Cr6n. Zac., 35, says Cadena founded a town there which attracted many Spaniards; though on p. 58 he credits the founding to Juan, de Tolosa. There is a tendency on the part of missionary chroniclers to claim everything for their order; and among most authorities in the early annals of these regions there is hopeless confusion of dates. FOUNDING OF DURANGO. 103 ground that they were for the most part unoccupied, and not provided with Christian instructors. 5 The governor fitted out his expedition at Zacatecas and the San Martin mines, enlisting about one hun dred Spaniards besides many native auxilaries. 6 Mar tin Gamon, an intimate friend of the governor, joined the army with twelve trusted comrades and was made maestre de campo. 7 Four Franciscans, Fray Pablo Acebedo, Brother Juan Herrera, and two whose names are not known, accompanied the force, which in June 1562 arrived in the San Juan Valley ^appar ently the site of the later San Juan del Rio, which was for a long time a kind of head-quarters. Here some of the men became mutinous and deserted; and Gamon for insubordination and insolence was sen tenced to death. The sentence being approved by the viceroy, the maestre de campo, who had escaped to San Martin, was brought back and executed. The rest of the year was passed in camp at San Juan, and in various minor explorations not recorded. Here the force was considerably increased by recruits from the different mining camps. In 1563 was formally founded the town of Durango, in the Guadiana Valley, near where Father Cadena, as already related, had formed a settlement of natives called apparently San Juan Bautista de Analco. Alonso Pacheco was sent from San Juan in the 5 Beaumont, Cr6n. Mich., v. 525 et seq.; Mota-Padilla, Hist. N. Gal, 107. Before this Alonso de Zurita, Memorial, in Icazbalceta, Col. Doc., ii. 333; Id., introd., xlvi.-vii., had asked the king to give him authority to form a new province in the north. Ibarra himself, Relation, 468, says he was made gov ernor of ' toda la tierra adcntro de las minas de San Martin en adelante. ' Beaumont, 'gobernador de la gran laguna de Copala en la tierra adentro, entre donde sale el sol y el norte, y que no se arrimase al norte y poniente (que era de Tzibola que Coronado anduvo) y que asimismo no fuese hacia el sur ni a. la mar de (51 que era Chiametla, Topia, y Tzinaloa. ' He was to use force only after exhausting mild means. Galeriade Vireyes, 214-15. 6 Expedition de la Nueva Vizcaya, 1563, MS., 13, is an account in Aztec, with Spanish translation by Prof. Galicia, of the part taken in the expedition, by the Aztec auxiliaries. 7 Beaumont, Cr6n. Mich., v. 467 et seq., represents Gamon as having been the first to plan the enterprise. Morfi, Diario, 354, tells us that the 12 under Gamon were famous as criminals, and that a place in Durango bears Gamon 'a name. 104 ANNALS OF NUEVA VIZCAYA. spring 8 with live-stock, seed, implements, and authority to distribute lands to settlers; and in July Ibarra came to organize a municipal government. He called the town Durango in memory of the Basque city; but for a century it was better known as Guadiana. It was intended as the capital of New Biscay, and to the task of promoting its prosperity the governor devoted much attention. To this end he not only pursued a most liberal policy in other respects, but having opened rich mines in the Aviiio district, he threw them open to all who wished to work, on the sole condition that they were to build houses and remain in the country. Bartolome Arriola was left at the capital as lieuteuant-governor, and was suc ceeded in 1565 by Martin Lopez de Ibarra. There were at first thirteen vecinos. 9 It was also in 1563 that the villa of Nombre de Dios was formally founded and its municipal govern ment organized by Governor Ibarra. 10 But it will be remembered that this was not the actual beginning of the settlement, and that there may have been an alcalde appointed before. 11 At any rate the alcalde mayor of San Martin soon claimed jurisdiction over the citizens of the new villa who disputed his author ity. Oidor Orozco, being in Zacatecas, took upon himself the defence of the jurisdiction of his audiencia of New Galicia, while Ibarra, called back in haste from 8 April 14th is given as the date of foundation in Dos Republicas, Feb. 8, 1879. 9 Some particulars in Ramirez, Not. Hist., 17-19; Id., Hist. Dur., 12. See also Ibarra, Relation, 472-4; Beaumont, v. 531-8; Durango, Dof. Hixt., MS., 6-7; Frcjes, Hist. Breve, 219-21; Escudero, Not. Dur., 7-11; llerrera, dec. viii. lib. x. cap. xxiv. ; Laet, Novvs Orbis., 289-90. Arlegui, Cron. Zac.. 58, names Tolosa as the founder; and others writers give various dates from 1551 to 1563. 10 Ibarra, Relation, 468-9; cabildo records as cited in Durango, Doc. Hist., MS., 83-104; Oct. 6, 1563. viceroy's decree authorizing the foundation. Id.; N ombre de Dios, Description de la villa, 1G08, 331. 338; the alcalde seems to have been Alonso Garcia, one of the earlier settlers. 11 Mota-Padilla, Hist. N. Gal, 107, says the town was founded in 1562 by Diego de Colio, alcalde of San Martin. Others say that Martin Perez, alcalde of Zacatecas, was the founder in about 1558, and that Colio was alcalde of Nombre de Dios. But it appears that Colio (Celio or Celis) was alcalde of San Martin, and the one whose claim made the trouble. See Frcjes, Hist. Breve, 129-31; Escudero, Not. Dur., 9-10; Beaumont, v. 501-8. IBARRA IN TOPIA. 105 his explorations, insisted that the villa belonged to his province. Open warfare was at one time imminent, but was prevented by the influence of Diego de Ibarra, and the matter in dispute was referred to the viceroy of Mexico. He settled it by ruling the disputed ter ritory himself until about 1611, when by royal order Nombre de Dios was restored to Nueva Vizcaya. 12 Before founding the two towns as just recorded, Ibarra marched with all his force from the San Juan fortified camp in March 15G3, bent on the conquest of Copala, 13 Topiame, or Topia, in the mountains north-westward. On reaching the San Jose Valley, some thirty leagues distant, it was suspected that the natives were plotting to lead the Spaniards, by tales of great cities, to destruction in the labyrinth of sierras. Martin de Renteria was sent in advance to explore, and returned in six days reporting a bad country with no settlements for thirty leagues. Ac cordingly the army turned back, discovering on the way rich mines in the valleys called Santa Maria 14 and San Geronimo. At the latter place a native woman offered to guide the Spaniards to Topiame, and Ibarra with thirty or forty men followed her, sending the rest of the army back to San Juan. He marched rapidly for eight days from April 15th to a place eight leagues beyond Renteria's limit. Here from the summit of a lofty range they looked clown upon a large settlement of people, clothed like the Mexicans, and living in flat-roofed houses of several stories. They did not enter the town, but at night approached so near as to hear the beating of Aztec teponastlis. They understood from the guide that u Durango, Doc. Hist., MS., 84-7; Beaumont, v. 559-60; Frejes, 217-19. In 1590 a transfer of the town to the Santiago mines was authorized. 13 This name is used by Beaumont and others; but I think that its appli cation to Topia is doubtful. It is probable that Copala was a province vaguely reported to exist in the far north and which furnished one of the chief motives for the general movement at first; but that the report of Topiame" was a dis tinct and later one heard by Ibarra, and which led to this special expedition. Of Copala and its lake we shall hear much later. 14 Written Sant Matia, perhaps San Matias. 106 ANNALS OF NUEVA VIZCAYA. there were many other such towns ; and they marched back to San Juan at the beginning of May, enthusi astic in the belief that they had discovered a new Mexico. 15 At least such was the report sent to viceroy and king. It is difficult, however, to see in this report anything but intentional exaggeration with a view to reward for past services and aid for new explorations. Topia was a region on the head waters of the Tama- zula River, where there is still a town of the name. It will be remembered that Coronado had heard won derful reports about a province of Topira, or Topiza, in 1540, which was probably the same. The people of that region were intelligent, and like other tribes of Nueva Vizcaya practised agriculture to some ex tent; but there was never any foundation for the wealth or civilization of the first reports. From his camp at Sari Juan Ibarra next sent Cap tain Rodrigo del Rio with men and supplies to settle the mines of Inde, 16 where a town of the same name still stands; and a little later, but still apparently in 1563, the same officer was despatched to settle the mines of San Juan and Santa Barbara some twenty leagues to the north, in the region of the modern Parral, Allende, and Jimenez, or southern Chihuahua on the Rio Florido, also called in these earliest years San Bartolome Valley. This was the limit of Spanish occupation in Ibarra's time. The mines were very productive, and soon attracted quite a large popula- 15 Velasco, Relation de lo que descubritf Diego (Francisco) de Ibarra en la provincia de Copala llamada Topiamti; describiendo muy por menor su viaje y descubrimiento, etc. In Pcwheco and Cardenas, Col. Doc., xiv. 553-61. This account is a letter of Viceroy Velasco to the king, of May 26th, to which are added an unsigned narrative giving more details, a short note of Francisco Ibarra from San Juan May 3d, and a note of Diego Ibarra to the viceroy from San Martin May 9th. In his Relation, 476-7, written after a second visit, though written with a view to set forth his great services to the king, Ibarra says nothing about the grandeur of the settlement or civilization of its people. Beaumont, v. 531, erroneously puts this first visit to Topia in 1562, and says Ibarra went on to Sinaloa at this time. He also states that in Topia he found on a fig-tree an inscription : ' This pueblo belongs to Diego Guevara. ' Arlegui, Cr6n. Zac., 35-7, 65-6, 222-5, makes the first entry in 1555-9, crediting everything as is his custom to the friars. is "Written also Ende, Endec, and Indehe". ACROSS THE SIERRA TO SINALOA. 107 tion. Some writers erroneously credit Ibarra with having penetrated to the region of the modern city of Chihuahua, and some give too early a elate for the occupation of San Bartolome. 17 At San Juan during the winter the Indians became troublesome, killing over four hundred horses and mules, and obliging the governor not only to send to the south for more live stock, arms, and ammunition, but to build a new fort. In the spring of 1564 Ibarra marched again into the mountains of Topia, finding nothing apparently of the wonders before reported, but pacifying the natives, establishing a garrison, and probably opening some of the mines discovered in the previous trip. At any rate the mining camps of San Andres and San Hipo- lito soon became somewhat flourishing in this region. Instead, however, of returning to San Juan in Du- rango, Ibarra continued his march across the sierra until he reached the Hio Suaqui, or Sinaloa, now the Fuerte. Of the coast provinces above Jalisco for the past twenty years and more, since Coronado's return in 1542, we know nothing except that the little town of San Miguel had managed to maintain its precarious existence, being the only Spanish settlement in all that region, 18 and that outside of Culiacan the natives were independent and hostile. The results of Guzman's conquest had been well nigh obliterated, except the memory of his outrages. The state of things enabled Ibarra to extend his authority as governor of Nueva Vizcaya over the coast provinces, and on reaching the Suaqui River he 17 Ibarra, Relation. He calls the mines Santa Bdrbola, or at least the printer does. See Hcrrera, dec. viii. lib. x. cap. xxiv. ; Cavo, Tres Siylos, i. 164; Escudero, Not. Chih., 88; Conde, in Soc. Mex. Geoy., Bol, v. 272. Ar- legui, Cr6n. Zac., 37-8, talks of the occupation of San 'Bartolomd Valley by friars in 1 559-63. Ibarra left garrisons in many forts in Chihuahua before he went to Sinaloa. Monumentos Domin. Esp., MS., no. 2, p. 243; Frejes, Hist. Brew, 217, 219. 18 Herrera, however, dec. viii. lib. vi. cap. xvi., speaks of a Christian pueblo on the Omitlan River as resisting the savages with the aid of a few Spaniards in 1 550. Chametla may not have been abandoned all the time. Mota-Padilla, Hist. N. Gal., 112-13, mentions outrages committed on the natives far north of San Miguel between 1540 and 1550, but his meaning is not clear. 108 ANNALS OF NUEVA VIZCAYA. proceeded to found there a town named San Juan de Sinaloa, or San Juan Bautista de Carapoa as Ribas calls it. Pedro Ochoa de Garraga or Estevan Mar tin Bohorques was put in command; Hernando de Pedroza was made curate; and before the governor's final departure two Franciscans were left to labor among the adjoining tribes. Antonio de Betanzos, the maestre de campo, was sent to San Miguel where he obtained supplies for the new settlement from Pedro de Tobar, whose relations with Ibarra seem to have been most friendly. 19 After the founding of San Juan, and perhaps after a trip down to Chametla, 20 Ibarra made a tour of ex ploration to the far north, of which in detail little can be known. The governor himself says he " went three hundred leagues from Chametla, in which entracla he found large settlements of natives clothed and well provided with maize and other things for their sup port; and there were many fertile tracts fit for wheat, corn, and other grains, parts of which might be con- 19 The town is called San Juan de Sinaloa in Ibarra, Relation, 481; Beau mont, Cr6n. Mich. , v. 533 et seq. ; Herrera, dec. viii. lib. x. cap. xxiv. ; and Mexico, Informe, in Pacheco and Cardenas, Col. Doc., xv. 460-1. This name probably means simply San Juan in Sinaloa, or the Sinaloa San Juan, as dis tinguished from the camp in Durango. The proper name was probably San Juan Bautista de Carapoa, as it is called in Sinaloa, Doc. Hist., MS., 10; Id., Mem. Hist., MS., 12-13; Alegre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, i. 238; fiibas. Hist. Tri- umphos, 28; and Albieuri, Hist. Mis., MS., 65-70. Alegre and the Sinaloa Doc. say that the town was on the south bank of the Suaqui on a fine penin sula between that river and the Ocoroni flowing into it. This is not very intelligible, and applies better to the Rio de Sinaloa farther south; but there seems to be no doubt that the town was on the Fuerte. Albieuri calls it the Sinaloa, but that name was also applied in early times to the northern stream. The commander is also called Larraga. See, also, Buelna, Compendia, 11-12; Dice. Univ., x. 401. Many writers date this settlement from 1554 to 1556, but this simply means that it was made by Ibarra, who began his northern operations in 1554. See Mendieta, Hist. Ecles., 759-60; Mordli, Fasti Nov. Orb., 25; 0 pueblo de Tovoripa, MS. See also, Ribas, Hist. Triumphos, 52; Alegre, i. 287-95; Gonzalez Ddvila, Teatro Edes, i. 252-3. PRESIDIO OF SAN FELIPE. 123 had built and decorated a fine adobe church and resi dence at San Felipe. The year 1597 was marked by one or two minor revolts, and by fierce conflicts between different native tribes, but great progress in conversion was also made. In 1598 by the vice roy's orders a reenforcernent of twenty soldiers was sent to the presidio of San Felipe. It would appear also -that many new settlers came about this time ; and in 1599 with the capture and execution of Tapia's murderer the spiritual conquest took a new start, success being great. Finally in 1600 Captain JDiego Martinez de Hurdaide, of whose valorous deeds much will be said in later chapters, assumed command of the garrison, made permanent allies of the hitherto troublesome Guazaves, and penetrated to the moun tain region of Chinipas. I have already mentioned the little that is known of Franciscan operations in the Topia mountains, where were the mining camps of San Andres, San Hip6lito, and Parpudos. As early as 1592 Father Tapia, from Sinaloa, had visited the Acaxees of that region, find ing them well disposed. Other visits were made from time to time by the Sinaloa Jesuits, who obtained there in 1597 a contribution of twelve hundred dollars from the miners for their San Felipe church. In 1599 Father Santaren made an extended visit and found the natives so desirous of conversion at Jesuit hands that he had to depart secretly by night from some of the districts. Finally in 1600 the same missionary with Father Alonso Ruiz entered the province, and they began their permanent work in earnest. They were accompanied by Diego de Avila who was com missioned by the viceroy as "capitan pacificador y juez protector" of the natives. 55 63 Duarte, Testimonio juridico de las poblaciones y conversiones de los Serra- nos Acaches, hechas por d Capitan Diego de Avila y el venerable padre Her- nando de Santaren por el afio de 1600. In Doc. Hist. Hex., serie iv. torn. iv. 1 73-207; also MS., in Sinaloa, Mem. Hist., 159-340; also r6sum< in Duranvo, .Doc. Hist., MS., 14G-50. This lengthy account was written by Martin Du- 124 ANNALS OF NUEVA VIZCAYA. In this pious raid they taught the natives to kneel and kiss the padres' hands at their approach, to build churches, and to say doctrina. They whipped some who were refractory about receiving the new faith, and broke up, united, or reestablished the villages ac cording to their own ideas of convenience or policy. They appointed alcaldes and other officials as usual, and especially directed their attention to breaking or burning all stones and bones worshipped as idols. The records show the Spaniards to have been hardly less superstitious than the Acaxees, since accounts of idols speaking or eating are accepted apparently without the slightest doubt. At Durango, or Guadiana, twenty-two thousand pesos having been contributed by Governor del Bio and others, the Jesuit college was founded in 1593-4, and at the end of the century had eight priests and two hermanos in its fellowship. Two padres worked at the college among the Spaniards and other inhabitants of the city and vicinity, while two were stationed at each of the three missions that had been founded. Of these Santaren and Ruiz, as already noted, were in the mountains of Topia. Two others of the eight Jesuits were fathers Geronimo Ramirez and Juan de Fonte engaged in converting the great Tepehuane nation, which occupied a large part of what is now Durango from Papasquiaro northward. Ramirez began the arte, the escribano of the expedition, who minutely describes and swears to every petty detail of each day's acts, each movement and word of captain, padres, and natives, each idol destroyed. More words to less purpose could hardly be written. The pueblos, as left after this entrada were: Santa Ana, San Martin, San Pedro y San Pablo, San Diego, San Juan Napeces, 'San Ger6nimo, San Telmo, Cuevas, Aibupa, Otatitlan, Acapu, Matenipa, San Miguel de los Reyes, Tocotlan, and San Juan de Cubia, having from G8 to 320 inhabitants each. The real de San Andre's was already under the care of a curate. A regulation was made forbidding outsiders to visit the Indian pueblos or to entice away the inhabitants under penalty of 100 pesos if the offender were a Spaniard, or 200 blows if an Indian. Alegre, i. 378-82, gives some details of Santaren's experience in 1599. Mota-Padilla, Hist. N. Gal., 250, mentions a revolt quelled by Bishop Mota in 1599 after the military had failed. According to Dice. Univ., i. 31; x. 619 et seq., the name Topia came from an old woman transformed into a stone, still venerated in the form of jicaras. See also Ribas, Hist. Triumplios, 471-8. JESUITS IN DURANGO. 125 work in 1596 at Sauceda and Ubamari, or Santa Cruz. Fonte entered the field several years later, and down to the end of the century the harvest was found more plenteous than there were laborers to reap. A town at Zape and that of Santa Catalina in Atotonilco Valley are said to have been founded during this period. Meanwhile padres Francisco Ramirez and Juan Agustin de Espinosa preached in the region of Cuen- came in 1594, and passing on to what is now south western Coahuila, founded in the lake region the mis sion of Santa Maria de Parras. The Laguna Indians were friendly from the first, and not averse to salva tion, although somewhat disinclined to live in villages. Many of them spoke Aztec dialects, which was a great help to the missionaries. The devil often appeared here, taking the form of a horrible beast; but on the other hand divine assistance was not withheld, and the success of the padres was flattering. In 1600 there were fifteen hundred converts in this mission, and three flourishing towns dependent on it. Among the many proofs of the Jesuits' efficacious teaching the chroniclers point with pride to the fact that a young convert sub mitted to torture and death rather than sacrifice her chastity. In addition to the statements of Ribas and Alegre, several of the anuas, or yearly reports of work, accom plished under this Jesuit college of Durango have been preserved, together with several letters of the missionaries. They are filled for the most part with petty details of remarkable conversions and cures, showing all to have been couleur de rose in the prog ress of the good work at this early time, but noticeable for an almost entire absence of all facts, figures, or names of historic value. 56 56 Nueva Vizcaya, Documentos para la Historia Eclesidstica y Civil. In Doc. Ilixt. Mex., series iv. torn, iii.-iv. The matter preceding 1GOO extends to p. 60 of torn. iii. This collection is torn, xix.-xx. of the Arckivo Gen. de Mex. I have also the MS. copy from the Andrade-Maximilian library. A large portion is also in the Sinaloa, J\fem. Hist.. MS., 817 et seq. See also 126 ANNALS OF NUEVA VIZCAYA. I may here glance briefly at the few events to be noted in sixteenth -century annals of the territory since known as Coahuila, then a part of Nueva Viz caya. Saltillo has already been named in the list of Franciscan convents. It was founded as early as 1582 57 by Padre Lorenzo Gavira; but the natives after a time became intractable, the little church was destroyed in a revolt, and finally Gavira was forced to seek a new field of labor. In 1586 the villa of Saltillo was founded under a regular municipal gov ernment. 58 It is not quite clear whether this was before or after the revolt alluded to; but either that revolt or other hostilities endangered the safety of the town about 1592 and caused the inhabitants to call upon the viceroy for succor. In response Captain Francisco Urdinola was sent north with a colony of four hundred Tlascaltecs, who, under the direction of Buenaventura de Paz, were settled in a town called Nueva Tlascala close to the villa but independent of Spanish control. The Franciscan establishment was also revived at this time. 59 The settlement thus pro tected was subsequently quite prosperous, but there is no further record of its progress until after 1600. In connection also with the Jesuit mission at Parras 60 a settlement of Spaniard and Tlascaltecs from Saltillo seems to have sprung up about 1598. This colony was welcomed by the mild Laguna tribes as a protection from their fierce foes the Tobosos and Cocoyomes of the north. It prospered for a time by reason of the Alegre, i. 283-7, 319-23, 354-6; Kibas, 669-710; Tamaron, Visita de Dur., MS., 41; Orozco y Berra, in llustradon Mex., 269; Durango, Doc. Hist., MS., 139-40; Albieuri, Hist. Mis., MS., 140-8. 57 Arlec/ui, Cr6n. Zac., 77. Torquemada, iii. 341, also favors this early date. Arlegui, pp. 224-5, speaks of the murder here at a still earlier date of a Franciscan who was preaching to the Guachichiles at Santa Elena. 58 Two alcaldes and a sindico were elected annually, but the office of regidores and clerk were sold at auction. Arispe, Memorial, 10; Avila, in Museo Hex., ii. 73; Dice. Univ., vi. 262. 59 It is not impossible that the revolt of 1592 was the same that drove out Gavira. Morfi, Diario, 404-6, followed by Orozco y Berra, Geog., 301, so represents it. 60 The name comes from the wild grape-vines in the vicinity. See also Tamaron, Visita, MS., 41. ANNALS OF NEW MEXICO. 127 soil's remarkable fertility ; but in the following century its progress was seriously retarded through the op pression of the poorer classes and especially the natives by rich monopolists of land and water. 61 The annals of New Mexico are fully presented in another volume; 62 hence an outline only is required in this connection, the province being one of the North Mexican States though never belonging to Nueva Vizcaya. The first visit of Europeans was that of Vazquez de Coronado from the west in 15402 as already recorded. Before the end of the century the country was several times revisited and finally occu pied by Spanish forces from the south, the various expeditions being voluminously and for the most part satisfactorily recorded in documents yet extant. In 1581 Father Agustin Rodriguez, moved by a perusal of Cabeza de Vaca's narrative and by certain reports brought by natives from the north, set out from San Bartolome Valley in southern Chihuahua, accompanied by two other Franciscans and a few sol diers under one Chamuscado. They went down the Conchos and up the Rio Grande to the province of the Tiguas, Coronado's Tiguex. They called the country San Felipe, perhaps San Felipe de Nuevo Mexico. The soldiers soon returned; but the friars remained, and after working for a while were killed by the natives. Late in 1582 Antonio Espejo with Father Beltran and fourteen soldiers went by the same route in search of Rodriguez and his comrades. Their fate was learned at one of the Tigua pueblos; and Espejo also 61 Morfi, Dlario, 390-2, relates that Capt. Urdinola began a ditch to monopolize the water for irrigation, but the governor of N. Vizcaya stopped the work. Later, however, the governor married into Urdifiola's family and the difficulties were thus effectually removed and the ditch completed. This writer states that the mission at Parras was founded by P. Espinosa at the same time as the villa, which must be an error. See also Dice. Vniv., vi. 2G2-3. 62 See Hist. JV. Mex. and Ariz., this series, for a full presentment of details and authorities. 128 ANNALS OF NUEVA VIZCAYA. heard of Coronado's ravages in this province. He extended his explorations eastward to the border of the buffalo-plains, northward to Cia and Galisteo, and westward to Zufri and the region of the modern Prescott. He heard of a great river in the north west, and of a wealthy province on a great lake; which reports in connection with the popular estrecho and Ibarra's Copala did not fail to be utilized as ele ments of the Northern Mystery. The return was from Coronado's Cicuic down the Rio Pecos in 1583. Espejo was disposed to call the country Nueva Anda- lucia, but the name New Mexico soon became preva lent. The king in consequence of the reports brought by Chamuscado's companions authorized the viceroy to make a contract with some suitable person for the conquest and settlement of the province. This was in 1583. Many deemed themselves fitted for the enter prise, and became enthusiastic after Espejo's reports were received. Espejo himself, Cristobal Martin, Francisco Diaz de Vargas, Juan Bautista de Lomas, and Francisco Urdinola were among those who in the next few years made earnest efforts but without suc cess on account of their character, poverty, or extrava gant claims to secure the conqueror's contract. Meanwhile Gaspar Castano de Sosa, governor of Nuevo Leon, started in 1590, without authority as it would appear, with a colony of nearly two hundred to take advantage of Espejo's discoveries. He went up the Pecos and crossed to the Rio Grande ; visited and received the submission of thirty-three pueblos in 1591, and then he was arrested and taken back to Mexico in chains by Captain Morlete, who had been sent with fifty soldiers and Father Juan Gomez to arrest Sosa for having undertaken an illegal entrada. The colonists soon retraced their steps southward. About 1595 Bonilla and Humana, sent by the gov ernor of Nueva Vizcaya against some rebellious natives in the north, extended their expedition with- OftATE'S CONQUEST. 129 out license to New Mexico. They marched far out into the north-eastern plains in search of Quivira; Humana murdered his chief in a quarrel; and was himself killed with nearly all his men in a fight with the savages, only one or two surviving to .tell the tale. At last in 1595 Juan de Onate, more fortunate per haps than other claimants, was commissioned as gov ernor and captain-general to effect the conquest. He raised a large force of soldiers and colonists, and left Mexico in 1596. Vexatious complications hindered his progress and exhausted his funds; but he reached the southern part of his province with several hun dred men and took formal possession in the region of El Paso in April 1598. All the pueblos submitted, most of them without resistance; Franciscan mission aries were stationed in the pueblos of six nations; Onate visited all the towns and penetrated far west of Zurii ; and the rebellious, or patriotic, warriors of the Acoma penol were reduced to submission after a series of hard -fought battles. All this was before the sum mer of 1599. San Juan de los Caballeros was made the capital. Santa Fe was not founded until consid erably later. There is no foundation for the popular idea that the latter is the oldest town in the United States. HIST. N. Mzx. STATES, VOL. I. 9 CHAPTER VI. VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. 1540-1600. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS MARITIME ANNALS VOYAGE OF JUAN RODRIGUEZ CABRILLO AND BARTOLOME FERRELO DEATH or CABRILLO DISCOVERY or ALTA CALIFORNIA RESULTS RUY LOPEZ DE VILLALOBOS DISCOVERS THE PHILIPPINES LEGASPI CROSSES THE PACIFIC PADRE ANDRES UR- DANETA OPENS THE NORTHERN ROUTE ARELLANO'S TRIP FROM THE WEST THE MANILA GALLEONS PIRATICAL CRUISE OF FRANCIS DRAKE IN THE MAR DEL SUR VOYAGE OF FRANCISCO DE GALI CRUISE OF THOMAS CAVENDISH CAPTURE OF THE GALLEON 'SANTA ANA' APOC RYPHAL EXPEDITIONS TO STRAIT OF ANIAN BY LORENZO FERRER MAL- DONADO AND JUAN DE FUCA CERMENON's VOYAGE THE 'SAN AGUSTIN* IN SAN FRANCISCO BAY SEBASTIAN VIZCAINO EXPLORES THE GULF UNSUCCESSFUL ATTEMPT TO SETTLE CALIFORNIA A BATTLE AND A RO MANCE OLD MAPS. TURNING again to the coast, I take up the thread of maritime discovery in the Mar del Sur where it was dropped in a preceding chapter at the failure of Pedro de Alvarado's schemes in 1541. So slight is the connection between the progress of exploration by water and the course of events on land in the coast provinces, that it is found most convenient to treat the two subjects separately down to the last years of the seventeeth century. I therefore describe in this and the two following chapters all voyages in the north-western waters of ocean or gulf during the period named, with the motives actuating and circum stances attending them, and the results accomplished, including of course the history of the temporary set tlements effected by some of the explorers on the Californian peninsula. (130) NORTHERN MYSTERY. 131 Many details of local geography and adventure connected with these voyages belong obviously to the history proper of Alta California, and of countries to the north, possessing little or no interest in connection with the present subject in its general aspects. Such details will therefore be briefly but none the less I hope judiciously disposed of here, to be treated in full when I come to narrate the annals of more north ern regions in a future volume, where in their turn generalities of the yarious expeditions may be in like manner presented en resume*. Still another phase of the subject may be. advan tageously left for fuller treatment elsewhere. I allude to fictitious narratives of voyages, or authentic narra tives of fictitious voyages, to and into and through the fabulous strait of Anian. Three only assumed definite form of date or detail those of Maldonado, Fuca, and Fonte each of which will be mentioned briefly in its chronological order; but the minutise of these expeditions and of others more vaguely recorded, as well as the endless variety of tales growing out of them, which were told and listened to in Mexico and Europe, I defer with all the annals of impossible ad venture and imaginary geography for future considera tion in chapters devoted to the Northern Mystery. 1 It is well, however, to understand at the outset that the fables and fancies alluded to had an element of reality, inasmuch as they were implicitly believed at the time, and exercised a marked influence on every expedition despatched. But for this influence it may almost be doubted that Spanish occupation at the end of the seventeenth or even the eighteenth century would have extended above Colima on the Pacific and Panuco on the Atlantic side. I have already ex plained how faith in a northern strait uniting the oceans was gradually and naturally developed from early cosmographical ideas respecting America as a part of Asia. During the later period, now to be ^ee Hist. Northwest Coast, i. chap, i.-iv. this series. 132 VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. considered, when expeditions by land and water were greatly multiplied, both soldiers and sailors, imbued with the prevalent expectation of wonders in the north, shaped their reports as far as possible by what they were desired to see rather than by what they saw. The aborigines were not slow to comprehend the ruling desire of the Spaniards and accordingly to fash ion their stories of great rivers, and lakes, and straits, always a little farther on, thus supplying explorers with all the basis they needed for their marvellous re ports. Sailors found from time to time at the northern limit of their voyage the mouth of a river, bay, or inlet, and on each occasion doubted not they had at last discovered the estrecho. It were a pity that be cause circumstances did not permit them just then to pass through to the other ocean, others should do so a little later and thus rob them of a merited honor; consequently their reports were made to include what they would have seen, had weather, or health, or sup plies allowed them to sail farther east or west. The influence of this all-pervading geographical dogma of Anian must be kept always in mind by the reader. The voyages treated in this chapter have been already put before the public many times in many forms, often with accuracy and completeness. Both individually and collectively they were in former years the subject of much more research than the inland annals of the same period, and later researches in the Spanish and Mexican archives have brought to light comparatively little new material. Hence it is that here to a greater degree than elsewhere in my work, I must be content to repeat an oft-told tale ; yet patient investigation is none the less a duty and a pleasure to the historian because comparatively barren of results or not easily made apparent to the reader. The threatened perils of a general uprising of native American nations having been averted by a success- CABRILLO'S VOYAGE. 133 ful issue of the Mixton campaign, Viceroy Mendoza was again at liberty to turn his attention northward. Coronado had abandoned the conquest of Cibola, Tiguex, and Quiriva, and was returning homeward with the remnants of his grand army. By the voy ages of Ulloa and Alarcon the gulf coasts had been explored and California proved to be a peninsula. Such results had evidently done much to cool Men- doza's ardor for northern enterprise; yet he had a fleet on his hands and one route for exploration still re mained open the continuation of that followed by Ulloa, up the outer coast beyond Cedros Island. Two vessels of Alvarado's former fleet, the San Salvador and Victoria, w r ere made ready and despatched from Natividad on June 27, 1542, under the command of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese by birth, and an experienced and adventurous navigator in the vice regal service. 2 2 Cabrillo, Relation del df'scubrimiento que hizo Juan Rodriguez navegando por la contracosta del Mar del Sur al norte, hecha por Juan Paez, published in Pacheco, Col. Doc., xiv. 165 etc., is the original diary of Cabrillo's voyage. The same document had been before published in Florida, Col. Doc., i. 173- 89, under the title Relation, 6 diario, de la navegacion que hizo Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo con dos navios, al descubrimiento del paso del Mar del Sur al norte. In this edition it is stated that a copy in the Munoz collection has the name Juan Paez written several times upon it. Thus there is some uncertainty about the authorship. Possibly the later editor has no better authority than this for putting it under that name. This diary seems to be the source of all that is known about the voyage, though Herrera, dec. vii. lib. v. cap. iii.-iv. (followed by Marina Espanola, ii. 244-7), and Navarrete, Sutil y Mex., introd. xxvii.-xxxvi., show a few slight variations of unexplained origin. Evans 1 and Henshaw's Translation from the Sj>anish of the account by the pilot, Ferelo of the voyage of Cabrillo along the west coast of North America in 1542 is the latest and best English version, with critical notes. Navarrete's version was translated by Alex. S. Taylor, and published in San Francisco, 1853, under the title, The First Voyage to the Coast of California. A MS. translation of the original diary from Buckingham Smith's Florida collection, also by Taylor, is in the library of the California Pioneers. Other references are: Mofras, Explor., i. 96, 328; Taylor's Hist. Sum., 18-20; Id., in Cal. Farmer, May 4, 1860, April 18, 1862, Aug. 14, 21, 1863; Clavigero, Stor. Gal, 154-5; Lorenzana, in Cortes, Hist. N. Esp., 325-6; Venegas, Not. Cal., i. 180-3; Burners Chron. Hist., i. 220-5; Torquemada, Mon. Ind., i. 693-4; Cavo. Tres Siglos, i. 135; Humboldt, Essai Pol, 329; TuthiWs Hist. Cal., 12-13; Greenhoiv's Or. and Cal., 61-3; Twiss' Or. Quest., 22; Capron's Hist. Cal., 2, 121-2; Farnham's Life Cal, 127; Cronise's Nat. Wealth, 5; Laet, Novvs Orbis, 306-7; Payno, i\\Soc. Mex. Gcog., BoL, 2daep. ii. 199-200; Dome- nech's Deserts, i. 226; Foster'* Hit. Voy., 448-9; Montanus, N. Welt. 210-11; Gleeson's Hist. Cath. Ch., i. 70-2; Findlatfs Directory, i. 314; Forbes' Cal., 9; Frignet, La CaL, 9-26; Morelli, Fasti, 24; Mines' Voy., 352; Hist. Mag., Lx. 134 VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. The diary presents, at least in that part which now concerns us, but a dry record of dates and of names applied to points visited along the coast, most of which have not been retained, and some cannot with any degree of certainty be identified. I append in a note a full list corresponding to the Lower California!! coast, with equivalents in 1802 and 1879 as identified by Navarrete and Evans. The former has, however, done little more than adopt the names given by Viz caino sixty years later, some of which are as hard to find on modern maps as the originals. It will be noted that the two commentators differ in identifying points north of Canoas Bay; but without being very positive as to details I prefer to follow Navarrete and to iden tify Cabrillo's San Miguel with San Diego for reasons that will be somewhat more fully given in another volume of my work. 3 Reaching the southern point of the peninsula, now 148; Hutching*' Mag., iii. 146; iv. 116, 547; v. 265; Muhlenpfordt, Mtj., ii. 451; Murray's N. Amer., ii. 79-80; Norman's Hist. Cal., 26-7; Saint- Amant, Voy. Cal., 393; Fedix, I'Orfyon, 55; Marchand, Voy., i. viii. ; Rouhard, Regions Nouv., 26; Weik, Californie.n. 5; Ty tier's Hist. Discov., 78-9; Mayer's Mex. Aztec., i. 142; Poussin, Puissance, i. 343. 3 See also next chapter for Vizcaino's names : Date. Cabrillo''s Names. Dist. Lat. Navarrete^s Names. [Evans' names in brackets.] July 6. Port San Lftcas 23 S Jose [B S Lucas] 8. Pt and Port Trinidad Port San Pedro 6? 25 25^ Isl. Margarita. [C. Tosco Sta Ma rina B.] [Magdalena B.] 19. Port Madalcna Pt Sta Cat'Uina 61. 27 Magdalena B. [Pequena B.] 25. 171. 27^ Habre Ojo 51. [Abreojos shoals.] Port Sta Ana 181. 28 Isl. Asuncion [Hipolito Pt]. July 27. Port Fondo 61. [B. east of Asuncion Isl.] Aug. 1. Port S. Pedro Vincula Isl S Est'van 181. 28i^ San BartolomS. [Id.] Natividad. [Id. and Pt Eugenio ] 5. Isl . Cedros 29 Cerros. [Id.] 11. Port Sta Clc'ira . . . 10 1 ? 30 [PlayaMariaB.] 15. Pt Mai Abrigo so y, Canoas. [Id.] 19. 20. Isl. S. Bernardo Pt Engafio 101. 7 1. 30i| 31 S. Ger>".nimo. [Id.] C. Bajo [no name]. 21. Port Posesion 101. 31 /^ Virgenes [S. Quintin]. 27. Isl . S. Agustin S. Martin. [Id.] Sept. 8. C. S. Martin 32]/j S. Quiutin. [No name, past Todoa C Cruz 171. 33 Santos.] [Evans omits 6 1. of distance.] 17. Port S Mateo Cl. 00 1/0 lodos Santos [S. Diego]. 27. Isl Desiertas 34 6 " Los Coronados [S. Clemente and Sta 28. Port S. Miguel 61. 34}xf Catalina]. San Diego [S. Pedro]. DISCOVERY OF UPPER CALIFORNIA. 135 Cape San Lucas/ on the 3d of July, Cabrillo followed the coast in his two frail vessels until on August 5th he arrived without accident at Cedros Island, the northern limit of Ulloa's voyage. 5 Formal possession was taken of the country on the 22d at what was per haps the bay of Virgenes of modern maps, and here the first natives were met, who claimed to have seen other Spaniards in the interior, and were intrusted with a letter for them. Nothing worthy of note oc curred until the voyagers anchored at San Miguel, or what is now San Diego harbor, on the 28th of Sep tember. Here again the natives spoke of Spaniards and their hostilities inland, and like reports were received at other points on the coast and islands above, doubtless founded on rumors of Diaz and Alarcon which had reached the tribes of the coast. Cabrillo's voyage derives its greatest importance from the fact that it was the first exploration by Euro peans of Alta California from San Diego to Cape Mendocino, and perhaps beyond. A close examination of this pioneer navigator's adventures and discoveries will, therefore, be more appropriately given in a subse quent volume on the earliest annals of California. During the month of October the coast and islands between San Diego and Point Concepcion were vis ited at various points, observations of latitude were made, and notes were taken of the country and its inhabitants, intercourse with the latter being frequent and friendly. In November, against contrary winds,, Cabrillo continued his voyage, but without landing, to a wooded point which he located in latitude 40, and then returned to the islands of the Santa Barbara Channel. He had broken his arm before leaving the islands, and from the effects of this accident, aggra vated by subsequent exposure, he died after his return. 4 Herrera and Navarrete say that he visited the port called by Cortes La Cruz, and the latter adds that it was probably San Jose* (del Cabo). 5 Unless, according to Castillo's map, that limit be Cape Engafio, which. Cabrillo locates 2 farther north. 136 VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. on January 3, 1543, leaving the command to his chief pilot, Bartolome* Ferrelo. In February the new captain started again north ward, and after being tossed about for some days by the ever changing winds and sighting again the cape in 40, the vessels were, according to observations made on the 28th, in latitude 43. Subsequently they were put in great peril by a storm, and seem to have been driven still farther north. The land was hidden by a dense fog, but the navigators thought they ob served signs of a great river entering the sea in this northern region. It seems indeed to have been im possible for any northern navigator to return without a report of something that could be interpreted to mean the strait of Anian. Returning, the fleet passed on the 5th of March the island where Cabrillo had died, named for him Isla de Juan Rodriguez, and the two vessels were separated, to be again united at Cedros Island on the 26th, the capitana having touched on the way at San Miguel and other ports. The almi- rante had been in imminent peril at one time, but on a solemn promise from the sailors to go naked to church, Our Lady had delivered them, though why she fancied such a costume is 'not told. Sailing from Cedros April 2d they anchored at Natividad on the 14th. As Cabrillo's latitudes are all from 1 30' to 2 30' too high, he may for his present purposes be supposed to have passed Cape Mendocino, which, however, he did not name; or even to have reached the present line between California and Oregon ; but more of this in other volumes. 6 Neither large cities, powerful nations, nor rich islands were brought to light as had been hoped. The only practical result was to make known the general trend of the coast for some eight hundred miles beyond the limit reached before. To the few thinking men who knew this result it must have given a comparatively accurate idea of the con- 6 See Hist. Cal, i. 69 et seq.; Hist. N. W. Coast, i. 137 et seq. VILLALOBOS AND LEGASPL 137 nection between America and Asia, especially when studied in connection with the voyages made before and immediately after, across the broad Pacific to the Asiatic Islands. If the two continents were joined it must be in the far north; but the "secret of the strait" remained yet unrevealed. During Cabrillo's absence two ships and three smaller craft, also- remnants of Alvarado's fleet, were despatched by order of Mendoza from the western coast, and probably from the port of Natividad? These vessels, sailing in November 1542 7 under the com mand of Ruy Lopez de Villalobos, bore a large force destined for the islands of the South Pacific. With the discoveries and misfortunes of this expedition I have nothing to do here. Suffice it to say that by it Spain acquired no foothold in the East Indies. To gain such a foothold was regarded as of primary importance; but more than twenty years passed before anything was accomplished in this direction; and this period was also a blank in the annals of north-western exploration by water, as also in the record of events on the land, but for the continued existence of the settlement at San Miguel de Culia- can. In 1559 Viceroy Velasco organized an expedition under Miguel Lopez de Legaspi. Andres de Ur- daneta, now an Austin friar, but formerly a skilful navigator and companion of Loaisa and Saavedra, was entreated and directed by a royal order to accom pany Legaspi as councillor. There were many delays, and Velasco died just before the preparations were completed; but the fleet of four vessels, with four hundred men, sailed from Natividad in the autumn of 1564. It is unnecessary here to say more of this expedition than that it accomplished the desired 7 Juan Fernandez de Ladrillero declared in 1574 that he and a company were in California until called back to join Villalobos' expedition. Navarrcte, Sutil y Mex., introd., xlii.-iv. This, if not pure invention, may be a vague allusion to Ulloa or Alarcon. 138 VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. object, the permanent occupation of the Philippines for Spain. The orders of the audiencia required that as soon as a settlement had been effected in the islands, Ur- daneta should attempt with a part of the fleet to find a practicable route back to the coast of America. This return voyage had never yet been made by rea son of the very winds that made the westward voyage so easy, and it was regarded by the king and his ad visers as an achievement by no means less important than the conquest of the islands. Urdaneta had his theories on the subject, which he had doubtless ex plained to the authorities, and the accuracy of which he was ordered to test. Accordingly the San Pedro, capitana of the fleet, was made ready and sailed from the island of Zebu on the 1st of June, 1565. Felipe Salcedo, a grandson of Legaspi, only sixteen years old, was in command, though instructed to be guided entirely as to the route by Urdaneta, who took with him as a companion Padre Andres de Aguirre. After sailing eastward to the Ladrones, the course was O 9 north to the coast of Japan, and still northward to the latitude of 38, whence the prevailing winds bore the vessel across to New Spain. 8 We have no further particulars of the route, but passing Natividad, said to have been found abandoned, the San Pedro arrived at Acapulco early in October. It had been a long and hard voyage. The vessel had been short-handed at the start; the pilot and master died at the beginning of the voyage, and fourteen others before it was ended; and so weak were the rest from sickness that on arrival at Acapulco there was not force enough to cast anchor. To Urdaneta, "aquel famoso argonauta," with his friar companion, had fallen the great work of the voyage, and right bravely 8 This is Grijalva's statement, Crdnica, fol. 122, and he adds, speaking of this as a route followed by later navigators, that if the wind is not found in 38 they keep on to 40, or even 43, where they are sure to find it. Burney, Cron. Hist. , 270, followed by many other writers, states that Urdaneta him self reached these higher latitudes. URDANETA'S VOYAGE. 139 > had they done it, steering the vessel, caring for the sick, performing the last rites for the dying and dead, making frequent and careful observations, and pre paring a chart by which the Manila galleons sailed for many a year. The worthy friar is entitled to all the honor of having been the first to cross the Pacific eastward. 9 He died in Mexico in 1568. The route once found, the voyage eastward, though long and tedious, and cold in its northern parts, pre sented no great difficulty, or risk save that of scurvy, short supplies, and a little later attacks of freebooters. Each year one or more vessels laden with the rich products of the east were wafted down the coast before the winds, but we have no information about any particular voyage. 10 They were no longer voy- v Yet such is the blind injustice of fate that as it seems, Survey's Hist. Chron., i. 270-1, and Grijalva, Cron., fol. 117, he did not actually make the first passage. Alonso de Arellano deserted the fleet in command of the San Lucas, made the trip from the Philippines across to the region of cape Men- docino, and arrived at Acapulco three months before Urdaneta. The two met at the court of Spain, whither each had gone to report his success. Are llano reported the rest of the fleet as lost, and claimed a reward for his own achievement. It is satisfactory to know that he was immediately sent back westward to be tried as a deserter. Torquemada, Mon. Ind. , i. 693-4, states that Mendoza sent a fleet to the Philippines which in returning came in about 42 to a point which they named cape Mendocino, following the coast down to Natividad. The viceroy sent vessels again, to explore, but they could not go beyond Magdalena in 25. Here is evidently confusion both of voyages and viceroys. It is not stated that Urdaneta reached that point, and the statement that Arellano did so is not entitled to great weight. In the absence of any positive evidence it is more probable that the name was applied in Mexico to a nameless cape of Cabrillo's narrative, or that the cape was named later by one of the galleons in honor of the second Mendoza. Taylor, in Browne's L. CaL, 20, takes his account apparently from Burney and not with sufficient care. Anson, Voyage, 235, tells us that the Philippine trade was first carried on from Callao, but the winds were unfavorable for the return, which sometimes lasted a year, and therefore the route was changed and trade diverted to Acapulco by the advice of a Jesuit, who persuaded naviga tors to take the northern route. This is all erroneous. Torquemada, i. 690, also speaks of Natividad as the port of the Philippine vessels before Acapulco was opened. This is true, however, only of western voyages. Venegas, Not. Cal. , i. 183, repeated in Sntil y Mex., p. xli., says that Viceroy Velasco sent the San Arjmtin to establish a station for the Philippine trade on the outer coast of California. The reference is doubtless to the later voyage of 1595. Nav- arrete, Sutil y Mex., Ixxxvi., speaks of Urdaneta's voyage only to correct the . impression given by Forster and others, that he discovered a passage from the north to the south sea; for this voyage, like every other of the period, was made to bear on the all-absorbing topic, about which Urdaneta was indeed called upon to testify in Spain. 10 Burney, Chron. Hi#t. , i. 270-2, notes the sailing of a ship, the San Gero- nimo, for the Philippines in 1566; also the San Juan for New Spain in 1567, 140 VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. ages of discovery, and there was no occasion that the log-books or diaries should be made public; on the contrary it was the policy of the government to shroud the movements of the galleons with every possible mystery. There were fears of foreign inter ference. The Spaniards' fears were not unfounded; they were not to be left undisturbed in their South Sea exploits; an English navigator appears upon the scene. English navigators a better sounding term than ad venturers, freebooters, privateers, or pirates had for some years made themselves a terror to all the Span ish main on the Atlantic side. The two governments were still at peace ostensibly; but Spain in her haughty arrogance showed no liberality or tolerance to foreign traders in her Indies, treating all such as intruders. The commercial spirit of England could ill brook this monopoly of western wealth, and trad ers came to regard the Spanish policy as a personal wrong and insult to each one of themselves, to be avenged upon the persons, and above all on the prop erty of any Spanish subject wherever found. The British government found that to leave the adven turers to right their own wrongs was an easier way to restore commercial equilibrium than to waste time in appeals to King Philip. Moreover the Spaniards were Catholics, and there was a prevalent sentiment in England at this time that the poor deluded vic tims of popery might be righteously robbed, and killed if not altogether submissive to the robbing. Thus does a holy faith ever prompt to grand efforts freebooters no less than missionaries. Francis Drake, at the time but little over thirty years old, had already distinguished himself in mari time exploits. He had several times visited the West the arrival of two vessels from New Spain the same year, and orders to one of the vessels in 1572 to take a course farther north than usual for purposes of exploration. He takes these items from standard works on the Philippines. FKANCIS DRAKE. 141 Indies in a subordinate position as a slave-trader, and had been instrumental in the sacking of divers towns on the coast. The unholy papists had, however, pre vented the complete success of some of his schemes for gain, thus incurring his hatred and justifying, as he thought, a life-long warfare on all that was Spanish. In 1573, from a hill on the Isthmus, he had looked upon the broad Mar del Sur, and kneeling had prayed that he might be the first to navigate those waters in an English bottom. His prayer was not quite literally answered, for John Oxenham, another pirate, by cross ing the Isthmus and stealing the bottom, gained for himself the honor; still Drake cherished his scheme and attached no more importance to his compatriot's achievement than has the world since accorded it. In 1577 he fitted out a fleet of five vessels, with a force of one hundred and six by- four men, and sailed from Falmouth on the 13th of December. ' His plans and the destination of his expedition were kept secret from even his own men, both for fear of rivals and of precautions on the part of his intended victims. Yet his designs were well matured; he would explore the Pacific for England, would either circumnavigate the world or return by the long sought northern pass; would attack Spanish commerce in a new and unpro tected spot, and would return laden with booty and honors. There is no reason to doubt that his scheme was secretly supported by the favor and purse of Queen Elizabeth. 11 Drake's operations on the coasts of South and Cen tral America have been mentioned elsewhere. 12 With one vessel, the Golden Hind, so laden with booty that a continuation of his piratical cruise seemed a fool hardy risk, a return to England by a southern route being for several reasons hazardous, Drake at last determined to seek a northern passage. With this 11 The Hakluyt Society's edition of Drake's World Encompassed contains practically all that is known of this expedition; and is the only authority that need be referred to in this connection. 12 See Hist. Cent. Am., ii. this series. 142 VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. view, after refitting on a southern island and taking one or two additional prizes, he anchored at Guatulco in Oajaca in search of supplies. After some further outrages here, the freebooter, now adopting the role of explorer, sailed in April 1579 out into the Pacific north-westward. He did not touch the territory treated in this volume ; yet the bearing of his expedi tion on rny present subject is obvious. Details of achievements in the north are fully treated in later volumes. 13 The Golden Hind in June anchored in a bad bay somewhere between latitudes 42 arid 48 according to different versions. Here it was resolved to aban don the attempt to find the northern strait. Excessive cold was the obstacle which mainly forced the navi gators to this course; and it was grossly exaggerated with a view not only to account for their failure, but to show that they had reached a very high latitude and to deter others from similar attempts. Then they fol lowed the coast southward until between latitudes 37 and 38 they found " a conuenient and fit harborow," respecting the identity of which I shall have much to say in the proper place, and where they remained six weeks refitting. Drake also took possession of the country for Elizabeth, and named it Albion, and then started homeward across the broad Pacific, doubled Good Hope in June 1580, and, having accomplished the first circumnavigation of the globe, arrived at Plymouth in November, to be soon made Sir Francis for his achievements. One effect of this expedition was to confine English researches for the northern strait for a long time to the Atlantic side of the continent. In Mexico it was long before any even approximatively accurate idea was formed of Drake's doings; but on the contrary the most extravagant rumors were prevalent, and it was for years supposed that the Englishman had 13 See Hist. CaL> i. 81 et seq.; Hist. Northwest Coast, i. 139 et seq. FRANCISCO DE GALL 143 actually passed through the strait of Anian. Among the popular tales of the time was that of a pilot named Morena who claimed that, being sick and nigh unto death, he had been put on shore by Drake either In the strait or just before he entered it on his way to England, that he had recovered and had wandered through the country for four years until he came to Santa Barbara in Nueva Vizcaya by way of New Mexico. On the way, over five hundred leagues from the starting-point, the wanderer reached an arm of the sea separating New Mexico from a great -western land where there were great towns and a nation of white men using horses. Thus did all these narrators of northern marvels unthinkingly "give themselves away" for the distant future. Morena told his story at the Sombrerete mines to Governor Rio, a man who was deeply interested in the Northern Mystery and therefore a credulous listener. 14 By chance a record has been preserved of a. Philip pine voyage made a few years after Drake's departure. Francisco de Gali, having sailed from Acapulco in March 1582, left Macao on his return July 24, 1584. Following the usual northern route he sighted the American coast in latitude 37 30', and followed the coast without anchoring to Acapulco. Gali made some observations respecting the currents and winds in the North Pacific; noted on reaching the coast a high and fair land covered with trees and free from snow; and in his course southward passed several islands, among which may be identified perhaps San Martin, Cedros, and the Tres Marias. The only im portance of this voyage in the eyes of historical students has resulted apparently from an error of translation, by which the latitude given was trans posed to 57 30', thus involving the question of pri- 14 Salmeron, Relaciones, 50-1, obtained his information from P. Ascension. Drake's voyage is often confounded with that of Cavendish by Mexicans, as in Cavo, Tres Siylos, i. 214^15. 144 VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. ority of discovery by Spain of a long stretch of coast. 15 Another English voyage is next to be noted, simi lar to that of Francis Drake in every respect save that open war between England and Spain covered with a kind of legal sanction many of the privateer's least outrageous acts. Thomas Cavendish after a long series of ravages on the southern coasts as far as Colima, arrived at Mazatlan, so called at the time, late in September 1588 with two ships well armed. Here the British obtained fruits, and repaired their craft at the islands near by, watched the while by a party -of Spanish horsemen from the villa of San Sebastian de Chametla. Then Cavendish crossed over to Aguada Segura, later called San Bernabe, or Puerto del Cabo; lying off and on near Cape San Lucas in wait for the galleon. That unfortunate vessel, the Santa Ana of seven hundred tons, - com manded by To ma's de Alzola, and laden with rich silks and other goods from the Indies besides 122,000 pesos in gold, hove in sight the 4th of November. After valiant defence the Spaniards were forced to yield; and the prize was towed into the cape harbor to be stripped of all her cargo that was worth the taking. The surviving victims, nearly two hundred in number, were put on shore while the Santa Ana was set on fire; but enough of her hulk remained unburned to carry the company to Acapulco. Meanwhile the victors went on their way rejoicing, and one of the ships being lost the other completed her voyage roumd the world. 16 The apocryphal voyage of Lorenzo Ferrer de Mal- 15 The original Spanish diary not being extant, our only knowledge of the voyage comes from a Dutch translation published in Linschotcn, Reys-Ghech- rift, of which the first edition appeared in 1596 according to Brunet. See also Jlist. Col., i. 94, this series. 16 Pretty's Admirable and Prosperous Voyage of the Worshipfull Master Thomas Candish. In HaUuyfs Voy., iii. 803-25. Cavendish's exploits are fully described in Hist. Hex., ii. 746 et seq., this series. MALDONADO AND FUCA. 145 donado is entitled chronologically to brief mention here under date of 1588; although the claim seems not to have been made publicly until 1609, and its effect on the popular imagination with the discussions it provoked the only reality connected with it should perhaps be placed much later. Maldonado professed to have entered the strait on the coast of Labrador; to have followed its windings up to 75, and down again to its Pacific mouth in 60; to have followed the Pacific coast south-east to 55; to have crossed the Mar del Sur westward one hundred and twenty leagues until he saw land; and finally to have returned by the same route. There was evidence to prove the man a liar and his story a pure fabrication long before actual exploration had demonstrated the non-existence of the strait he describes. Now that northern geography is no longer mysterious in navi gable latitudes the voluminous reasonings of the past respecting Maldonado's pretensions merit attention only as a curiosity of literature. The narrative will, however, claim some notice with other northern fables in another volume. 17 The story of Juan de Fuca was similar to that of Maldonado in many respects; but there have been those in recent times who believed in its truth. As told to Michael Lok at Venice in 1596 it was in sub stance as follows: Fuca had long served Spain as sailor and pilot, and had been on board the Santa Ana when captured by Cavendish, losing $60,000 at that time. Later he went as pilot in a fleet of three vessels, with three hundred men sent by the viceroy to find the strait of Anian and fortify it against the English; but mutiny prevented success, and the fleet returned from the California coast. A little later, however, in 1592, he was sent out again by the viceroy with two vessels manned by sailors only. He fol- 17 See Hist. N. W. Coast, i. 92 et seq. ; Maldonado, Relation. See also for a good statement of the subject Navarrete, Viages Ap6crifos, HIST. N. MEX. STATES, VOL. I. 10 146 VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. lowed the coast northward until between 47 and 48 he found a strait about a hundred miles wide at the mouth, through which he sailed in various courses until he came to the Atlantic. Then having effected his purpose he returned after ascertaining the coun try on the strait to be rich in gold, silver, and pearls to Acapulco in the same year. Failing to obtain a reward for his services from Spain, he was willing to give England the benefit of his great discovery, to which end negotiations were opened but came to nothing. 18 There is some evidence that Fuca was, like Mal- donado, a real personage; but not a word respecting either of the voyages described, though both are said to have been fitted out by the authority of the vice roy, has ever been found in the Spanish archives, or elsewhere except in Fuca's own statement. Circum stantial evidence is all against the truth of that state ment. Similar tales were very common among Spanish pilots at the time, when few doubted the existence of a strait north of 43. Each desired an opportunity to search for the strait and for fame at public expense, and few hesitated at falsehood to gratify their ambi tion. Fuca, old, poor, and disappointed like the rest in this respect, was fortunate enough to fall in with a man interested in promoting English discoveries. To him he could make the claim, absurd to Spanish ears, that he had discovered the strait in an official expedition ; and shrewdly affirm that Spain was keep ing the discovery secret through jealousy of England. He had manifest advantages over his confreres in New Spain, who had to invent stories of mysterious shipwrecks on the Atlantic coast; but there is not the slightest reason to suppose that this tale was any thing but pure fiction. I shall be obliged, however, to present the argument in full elsewhere. 19 The pilot's fiction was in one respect a brilliant success; for "Lok's note in PurfJias, Hi* Pilgrimes, iii. 849-52. 19 See Hist, Northwest Cocutt, i. 78 et seq. , this series. CERME^OX AND VIZCAINO. 147 has it not immortalized his name by attaching it to an inlet of the Northwest Coast? It is remarkable that, with one or more vessels following each year the Philippine route and coming regularly in sight of the California coast, more ener getic efforts were not made to find an available port. Nevertheless we have but one record of such an attempt, that of Sebastian Rodriguez Cermefion, de spatched from Manila in 1595 for the express purpose of exploring the coast. Of the result we know only that his vessel, the San Agustin, ran ashore in what was named at the time San Francisco Port, since known as Drake Bay. Whether the ship escaped after being lightened of her cargo or was accompanied by a tender on which the crew escaped is not recorded; but Cermeiion's pilot Bolafios lived to visit the port again with Vizcaino in 1603, and his statement is all there is extant on the voyage. It is not impossible that some additional results of the expedition were intentionally kept secret by the government; at any rate no record has ever come to light in the archives. 20 After the capture of the Santa Ana by Cavendish the urgent necessity of occupying California for the protection of the Manila trade became more than ever apparent to the Spanish government. Not only were measures adopted, as we have seen, for the exploration of the northern coast, resulting in the voyage of the San Agustin, but in 1594 Viceroy Velasco, probably by royal instructions, contracted with Sebastian Viz caino to explore anew and occupy for Spain the Islas Californias. Velasco's successor, the count of Mon-. terey, ratified the contract and despatched the expedi tion in 1597. 21 20 Torquemada, i. 717-18; Ascension, Pel. Breve, 558; Cabrera Bueno, Nav. Espec., 303. See Hist. CaL, i. 96, this series. 21 According to Vizcaino, Relation del Viaje, 1611-14, 101-2, Don Sebas tian was a son of Viceroy Velasco. Torquemada, followed apparently by all other writers, states that in 1596 the king ordered Viceroy Monterey to send 148 VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. Vizcaino sailed from Acapuleo with three vessels, a large force, and four Franciscan friars. 22 He touched at Salagua, where a part of his men were taken on board, at San Sebastian, and at the Mazatlan isles. 23 At the latter place fifty men deserted, thinking the supplies inadequate; and here also Father Balda turned back, ill and dreading the voyage and prospective ex posure. 24 Five days farther up they left the coast and next clay sighted California, their land of promise. A little later one hundred men were landed and were well received ; but the spot did not seem suited to the requirements of a colony, and the fleet passed on apparently northward to a port named San Sebastian, where a stay of fifteen days 25 was made, and where after deliberation by a junta of officials it was deter mined to take formal possession of the country. A multitude of aborigines witnessed the hoisting of the Spanish flag, and listened to an artillery salute. One of the friars was sent with thirty soldiers to explore the interior, finding the people well enough disposed though unwilling that the strangers should enter their dwellings, many of which were observed to be underground. They furnished food and a few pearls, and the rancherias near the camp showed no signs of hostility while the Spaniards remained; but fresh water was not plentiful, and it was deemed best not to settle permanently at San Sebastian. Neither Vizcaino to California, and that the expedition was made the same year. All the evidence I have to the contrary is a royal cedula of Aug. 2, 1628, in Doc. Jlist. Afex., series ii., iii. 442-3, in which the king states the facts as I have given them, adding that Monterey ordered Vizcaino to fulfil his contract, ' no em- bargante que en la sustancia y capacidad de su persona, hallo algunos incon- venientes.' Greenhow, Or. and Cal., 89-91, tells us without any known authority that Vizcaino had been on the Santa Ana captured by Cavendish. 22 Padres Francisco de Balda (comisario), Diego Perdomo, Bernardino Zamu- dio, Nicolas de Saravia, and Br. Nicolas (or Cristobal) Lopez. Salmeron, R<-la- ciones, 12-13, says all were Franciscans by royal order. Alegre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, i. 311, tells us that both the viceroy ami Vizcaino preferred Jesuits, but missionaries of that order were scarce and could not be obtained. A Franciscan Cronira, in Icazbalceta, Col. Doc., ii. xlviii.-ix., includes P. Tello, the historian, in the number. 23 Niel, Ajjwit., GO, puts Matanchicr (Matanchel) in place of Mazatlan. 21 He was succeeded as comisario by Padre Perdomo, and later by Padi-e Zamudio. 25 Torquehiada mentions both 15 and 8 days. VIZCAIXO IX LOWER CALIFORNIA. 149 the women nor the horses were landed at all, and after some preliminary explorations by one of the vessels, the fleet moved on to a port named from the peaceful character of the natives La Paz, a name it has since retained, being also identical probably with the Santa Cruz of Cortes, since a tradition of former visitors was retained, and even some material relics were found in the shape of iron fragments and traces of an encamp ment. 26 Immediately on landing temporary dwellings were built of branches, and a little church, all projected by a rude barricade of trees. The encampment was sol emnly proclaimed capital of the new province, and the work of permanent occupation was begun. The natives came in great numbers and were kindly treated by the friars, who succeeded in obtaining many of their chil dren for instruction. The soldiers, as was not unusual in these expeditions, were disliked and feared by the people, whom, and especially the women, they took but, little pains to treat with justice. Not much prog ress was made in the work of conversion, since the time, only two months, \vas too short to master the language. The almiranta with her boat was sent up the gulf coast and is said to have advanced nearly one hundred leagues. 27 The explorers landed frequently and were for the most part kindly received, but at a few points were threatened. At one landing about fifty leagues above La Paz 23 arrows were discharged at the Span iards, who replied with musket-shots, killing two or three natives. The rest fled to the woods and the navigators proceeded to reembark, one boat-load 26 Some suspected that the relics were left by Englishmen. The presence of any Englishman at La Paz before this date is, however, very doubtful, and the same remark may be made respecting all rumors of visits from Pichilin- gues save those specially noticed in this and the next chapters. 27 Salmeron tells us that Lope de Argiielles (Qui nones) was in command and that he reached 30. Niel, Apunt., 77, says he did not go beyond San Bruno and the Coronados Isles. 28 Xavarrete and others imply that the fight was at the highest latitude reached. 150 VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. going off safely to the ship ; but the remaining twenty- four men just as they had entered the boat were attacked by five hundred natives; nineteen of the soldiers perished, the boat having been capsized in the melee, while five, badly wounded with arrows or stones, escaped by swimming to the ship, the crew of which for want of a boat had been unable to render any aid. 29 During this northern trip no better country was found than that in the region of La Paz, although some fertile isles, and good ports, and very rich come- deros, or pearl-beds, were reported. The explorers returned for want of food, and they found Vizcaino and his men also living on short rations. There being no reliable source of food-supply in the country, a junta of officers advised a return to Mexico. Not a few opposed this measure, probably willing to risk hunger in view of the pearl prospects, 30 but before the question was definitely settled there came a norther and a fire which laid the camp in ashes and left barely food enough for the return voyage. 31 Vizcaino sent the capitana with most of the colony to Acapulco, the vessel touching at Chametla and Colima on the way; while he with a few men set sail in another direction with a view to further discoveries; but he arrived at Acapulco only a few days later than his companions. 32 Thus failed the second at- 29 According to Ortega, Relation, 438, the Indian attack was caused by the act of one Gines, who seized a large pearl from the breast of a native girl. He was afterward hanged in Mexico for other crimes. 30 Padre Zamudio told Salmeron, Rdaciones, 12-13, that the men secured many pearls until Vizcaino forced them to show their gains that the king's fifth might be separated, after which they refused to search further. 31 Aparicio, Conventos, 284-98, says the Spaniards were forced to evacuate La Paz by the natives, who were rendered hostile by the act elsewhere attrib uted (see note 29) to the troubles farther north. This author, moreover, adds the charms of romance to his version. It seems that Don Lope, a page of the viceroy, loved Dona Elvira, who at last promised him her hand if he could re place a magnificent pearl she had lost. With this in view Lope joined Viz caino's expedition, and at last saw the pearl which would bring him happiness in the lip of a chieftain's daughter. Entreaties availed him nothing and he took the treasure by force. By this act California was for the time lost to Spain, but the lover gained his bride, who after the marriage naively con fessed she had lost no pearl at all ! 32 Taylor, Hist. Summary, 23-4, says the return was in October. THE PENINSULA. 151 tempt to settle the arid peninsula, which, however, lost by this voyage none of its mysterious and at tractive attributes ; for the reports .of great riches in pearls assumed more definite shape than ever before, while the starved-out adventurers still talked of maize in immense quantities a little beyond the limit of their navigation. 33 Thus end the maritime and inland ?^&^^^ LOK'S MAP, 1582. annals of the first century of north-western conquest. It is to be noted that, notwithstanding the frequent use of the term Islas Californias, the country was re garded as a peninsula from the time of Ulloa and Alarcon down to the end of the century and consider ably later. Castillo's map of 1541 has been repro- 33 The standard authority for Vizcaino's voyage is Torquemnda, Mon. Ind., i. 682-6. Navarrete, Sutily Hex., lvii.-x., adds nothing, although he claims to have seen some original papers. Authorities which show some slight variations have been mentioned in preceding notes; those who follow lorquemada, giving his version in full, are: Veneyas, Not. CaL, i. 183-9; Cla^gcro, Stor. CaL, 155-7; March y Labores, Marina Espanola, 488-91; Zt' > ' : Es P afla ^ 326 5 Mofras, Explor., i. 100-1; Cavo, Tres Sighs, i. 227;/>oc. Hist. Mcx., series iv., v. 8-9; Calle, Not., 108-9; Bumnjs Chron. Jhst.ii. 182-5; Footer's Hist. Voy., 452-3; TuthUCs Hist. CaL, 28-9; Glee- sons Hist. Cath. Ch., i. 78-80; Shea's Cath. Miss., 88. 152 VOYAGES TO THE NORTH-WEST. duced in an earlier chapter. 34 Michael Lok's map of 1582, reproduced on the next preceding page, 35 con nects the peninsula to the main by a narrow isthmus, turning the coast abruptly eastward just above the junction ; but the Wytfliet-Ptolemy map of 1597, with WYTFLIET-PTOLEMY MAP, 1597. a variety of curious geographical developments, leaves no doubt as to the author's intention to make Cali fornia a peninsula. 36 34 See p. 81 of this volume. 35 Ilakliiyt's Divers Voyayes, 55. 36 Wytfliet (Com.) Discriptionis Ptolemaicce Avgmentum. CHAPTER VII. MARITIME EXPLORATIONS. 1601-1636. i VIZCAINO'S SECOND EXPEDITION OUTER PENINSULA COAST UP TO LATI TUDE 43 LATER PROJECTS CALIFORNIA AN ISLAND INTEREST IN THE NORTH-WEST VIZCAINO'S THIRD VOYAGE ONATE AT THE HEAD OF THE GULF CARDONA'S CONTRACT AND VOYAGES JUAN DE ITURBE PICHJ- LINGUES ON THE COAST SPILBERG'S CRUISE MEMORIAL OF PADRE As- CENSION DUTCH MAP ARELLANO'S CLAIM PRIVATE PEARL VOYAGES MKLCHOR DE LEZAMA PETITION OF BASTAN VIEWS OF SALMERON THREE EXPEDITIONS BY FRANCISCO DE ORTEGA THIRD COLONY AT LA PAZ ORIGINAL RECORDS FIRST OF THE JESUITS ESTEVAN CARBONEL IN THE GULF D'AVITY'S MAP. SEBASTIAN VIZCAINO had failed to found a permanent settlement in California, yet he was deemed the best man to put in command of the new expedition up the outer coast, ordered by the king by cedula of Septem ber 27, 1599, the special object being to search the coast for a harbor, where the Manila galleon might anchor and her scurvy- stricken crew find relief. 1 No ex pense was to be spared in the effort; accordingly more than ordinary care was exercised in the selection of vessels and men. The fleet consisted of two navios obtained from Guatemala, &fmgata built for the voy age, and a lancha. Vizcaino as capitan general sailed on the capitana, San Diego; Toribio Gomez de Cor- van as admiral on the Santo Tornds; 2 while the Tres 1 According to cedula of Aug. 2, 1628, in Doc. Hist. Mex., series ii., iii. 443, and that of Aug. 19, 1606, in Ve.necfas, Not. Cat., i. 194-4, Vizcaino was strictly forbidden to enter the gulf. Ascension, litlacion, f,4"2, says that he had orders to explore the gulf on his return. 2 The vessels are usually spoken of as the capitana and almiranta, and not a few modern writers have evidently mistaken these terms for their names. (153) 154 MARITIME EXPLORATIONS. Reyes was under Alferez Martin Aguilar and Pilot Antonio Flores. The force was nearly two hundred picked men, many of whom were skilful sailors, and also soldiers. 3 Three barefooted Carmelites had charge of religious interests, padres Andres de la Asuncion, Tomds de Aquino, and Antonio de la Ascension, 4 the first serving as comisario and the last charged with keeping the diary and serving with Palacios as cos- mographer and map-maker. The leader having been directed by the viceroy to consult his officers on all matters of moment, and duly admonished respecting his duties and responsibilities in other directions, left Mexico on March 7th, and sailed from Acapulco under the patronage of Our Lady of Carmen on Sunday May 5, 1602, at 4. p. M. 5 3 Other officers were Capt. Alvaro, Este"van Peguero (Pesquero or Piquero), Capt. Gaspar (or Pascual) de Alarcon, Capt. Geronimo Martin Palacios, cos- mograplier; alfe"reces, Juan Francisco Suriano, Sebastian Melendez, and Juan de Acebedo Tejeda; pilots, Francisco Bolanos, Baltasar de Armas, and Juan Pascual; sergeants, Miguel de Legar and Juan de Castillo Bueno; corporals, Este van Lopez and Francisco Vidal. * Called also Asuncion in his own narrative as printed, but this is probably a typographical error. 5 The most complete narrative is that given in Torquemada, i. 694-726, probably almost identical with the original diary of Ascension. The only printed account in the friar's words is Ascension, Relation Breve en que se da noticia dd descubrimiento, etc., in Pacheco, Col. Doc., viii. 539-74. This is dated Oct. 12, 1620, and was sent to the king in December of the same year. It is an essay on the geography, people, and products of the Californias, written with a view of promoting further attempts, but contains information about the voyage itself. The author says he wrote a complete narrative and made a map, besides a short account for the king. Casanate, Carta Rel., 27, says Ascension wrote three papers on the subject besides one that was printed. Navarrete found in the archives certified copies of the following original papers: Record of the councils held during the voyage; a circum stantial diary; an itinerary made in 1602 by Palacios, approved by pilots and by Ascension (doubtless the one sent from Monterey), and 32 maps of the coast explored. Considering his advantages this writer, Sutil y Mex. , introd. , Ix.-lxviii., gives an account which is hardly satisfactory, containing some errors, and very far from being complete; but he has published a reduction of the charts, Atlas No. 4, which Burney has reproduced and which I give herewith. Salmeron, Relaciones, 14-21, was personally acquainted with Ascension and with others of Vizcaino's companions. In his ce"dula of Aug. 2, 1628, Doc. Hist. Alex., se"rie ii., iii. 443, the king gives some points con nected with the voyage, and speaks of Vizcaino's letter from Monterey dated Dec. 28, 1602. Venegas, Not. CaL, i. 193-201, gives a royal order of Aug. 19, 1606, which contains original information. And finally Cabrera Bueno, in his Navegacion Especulativa, Manila, 1734, 302-13, has a Derrota de*de el Cabo de Mendocino hasta el puerto de Acapulco por la Costa, which contains the results of this expedition. The above are the original authorities; the following accounts, more or SEBASTIAN VIZCAINO. 155 Explorations were to begin at the point of Cali fornia, and the fleet anchored June llth in the port of San Bernabe, 6 or Puerto del Cabo. Here began the marvels inseparable from northern voyages. A miraculous lighting-up of the air saved them from wreck off the cape in a dense fog; the natives, pleased to see a negro on board, said they were accustomed to intercourse with people of that race; the country was most fertile, the climate all that could be desired, and indications of wealth were abundant. It is remarka ble what charms the sterile peninsula had in these times for all save such as were called upon to settle there. The devil, to adopt the chronicler's opinion, was averse to the Spaniards' departure, involving as it did the invasion of his northern realms; but after three vain attempts, a fourth was more successful, and the long-boat having been abandoned, the three vessels set sail on the 5th of July. The outer coast of the peninsula having been already explored by Ulloa and Cabrillo, arid the separation of Vizcaino's vessels during a greater part of the voyage causing no little confusion, I refer the student of geographical details to a note and to Vizcaino's map which accompanies this narrative. 7 A few well less extensive, were taken from Torquemada, either directly or through Vene- gas or his followers, a few writers having also consulted Navarrete: March y Labores, Marina Espaucla, ii. 491-506; Vet/eyas, Not. CaL, iii. 22-139; Claviyero, Stor.- Col., 157-9; Espinosa, in Soc. Mex. Geog., v. 429-46; Cavo, Tres Stylos, i. 238-9; Cal. Estab. y Prog., 9-10; Navarrete, Viajes Apoc., 45; Lorenzana, in Cortes, Hist., 326-7; Taylor's Hist. Summary, 24-7; Barney's Chron. Hist., ii. 236-59; Mofras, Explor., i. 100, etc., 328; HumboUlt, Ess. Pol., 330; Greenhow's Or. ami CaL, 44-6; Times' Or. Quest., 63; Forster's Hist. Voy., 452-3; TuthUVs Hist. CaL, 29-38; Friynet, La CaL , 13; Gleeson's Hist. Cath. Ch., i. 80-1; Lardncr's Hist. Mar. Discov., ii. 285-6; Cronise's Nat. Wealth, 6-9; Bartlett's Pers. Narr., ii. 88, 98-100; Shea's Cath. Miss., 88; Walpole's Four Years, ii. 212; Robinson's Life CaL, 2; Arner. Quart. Reg., ii. 150; Cal. Past, Present, etc., 53-4; Campbell's Span. Amer., 84; Farn- ham's Life CaL, 127-48; Sammluny der Reise, xvii. 159. 6 So named from the day. On the way they had stopped for repairs at Natividad May 19th-22d, sighted Cape Corrientes May 28th, passed Mazatlan June 2d, and arrived off C. San Lucas June 9th. Taylor, Hist. Summary, 24-5, makes the arrival at S. Bernab6 June 14th. 7 The points are given as nearly in the order in which they were visited as possible, according to Torquemada 's text. The names italicized do not appear on the map: Cape San Lucas. 156 MARITIME EXPLORATIONS. VIZCAINO'S MAP, 1603. EXPLORATIONS OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 157 known points may be identified; but the imperfections of the best modern charts, frequent changes and con sequent confusion in names, and the vagueness of Torquemada's text render futile any attempt at geo graphical exactitude. In doubling the cape the fragata was separated from her companions and was forced back to San Bernabe; SierraddEnfado(\tl. a. E. | E. from B. Marinas in 23. Cabrera Bueno). 13. Enganosa de Sta Marina, the southern entrance to Magdaleria B. (24. Cabreri&os, Hist. Triumphos, 159-62, followed by A legre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, ii. 77-8, and Ortega, Relation de la Entrada, 437-40. The last very nearly agrees with Cardona's account. 166 MARITIME EXPLORATIONS. Cardona to his almiranta performed, he went to Acapulco and to Mexico with his pearls, most of them spoiled by roasting, but many valuable, and one worth forty-five hundred pesos. 17 It remains to notice briefly in this connection the voyage of George Spilberg and his pichilingues. This Dutch freebooter, having passed through the Strait of Magellan in April 1615, and having ravaged the coast of South America much after the fashion of Drake and Cavendish, anchored October 10th before Acapulco, and under a truce with the governor exchanged his Spanish prisoners for provisions. Leaving Acapulco on the 18th for the north-west the Dutchman captured on the 26th a small pearl ship from California, doubtless Cardona's capitana. She carried six guns, and yielded only after a fight, part of the Spaniards escaping, but two friars and a number of soldiers remaining as cap tives. Spilberg subsequently had a battle with the Spaniards at Salagua, a name applied to the bay of Santiago, or to a part of it, in which several were killed on both sides. 13 From Navidad he sailed No- 17 There are, however, some minor differences among the writers who give substantially this version. Iturbe'a presence on the Sinaloa coast 13 note; I in the Jesuit Anna of 1616. Siiialoa, Mem. Hist., MS., 569. See Veiicyas, Not. Cal., i. 202-4, withref. to Acension's Relaciones; Claviyero, Stor. ('al.,i. 101; Cal. Estab. y Prorj., 10; Lorenzana, in Cortts, Hist., 327; Esteva, in So:: Hex. Gcoy., x. 674. Navarrete, in Sutil y Mex., lxix.-x., followed by Taylor, Hist. Summary, 27, makes the date 1616, and the latitude reached SB , but this probably means nothing more than that it was at the head of tlio gulf. Pdbas, Hist. Triumphos, 159-62, implies that Iturbe's ships came from abroad into the Pacific. He says the voyage up the gulf was in the spring of 1G15; gives some particulars of Iturbe's arrival at Ahome; states that when he went after the pirates he took with him Capt. Suarez and some soldiers; and finally that before going to Acapulco he returned, built another vessel, and made a new voyage for pearls, going up to 32. Ortega, Relation, 437-40, agreeing with Cardona in many points, says that Iturbe had two ships, ll> negro divers, and 50 soldiers and sailors; that he visited La Paz; that near the head of the gulf the negroes refused to dive and the men mutinied; that "the larger vessel came down to Salagua and was taken by pirates, the men escaping in boats; that Iturbe remained in Sinaloa with the long-boat after his ship was sent to the Philippines, and made another pearl voyage; and finally that although only 14 marks of pearls were registered, yet, he, the writer, saw large quantities in the hands of persons named. 18 Cardona, Mem., 46, says Sebastian Vizcaino was in command atSr.lagua, was aided by himself, and that five Dutch men were captured and sent to Mexico. Mota-Padilla, Conq. N. Gal., 272-3, names Vizcaino, calls the corsairs Eng lish, the prisoners seven, and the date 1617. VIEWS OF PADRE ASCENSION. 16T vember 20th, intending to watch off Cape San Lticas for the Manila ship; but the winds were unfavorable, and at the beginning of December he left the coast at Cape Corrientes and steered for the East Indies. 19 Thus Cardona's narrative is corroborated, save in the precise date in the autumn of 1615 when his vessel was taken, by excellent authority, as is the other account by Bibas. Some errors are evident in each version, but the differences are irreconcilable and the exact truth out of reach. Cardona relates that after the return of Iturbe's vessel from seekmg the galleon, he repaired her at great expense; but the viceroy seized her for a trip to the Philippines, and the captain was thus ruined. He, however, went to Spain, formed ne\v contracts, obtained more money, and subsequently made extensive preparations at Panamd for another expedition to the gulf; but being delayed to aid in that town's defence, he was too late for the season; his capitana sprang a leak; two vessels were burned at Chiriquiri; another was wrecked at Tehuantepec. After setting about the building of two more vessels, he was summoned to Habana, and thence went to Spain in 1623. It was in 1620 that Antonio de la Ascension, at the Carmelite convent of San Sebastian in Mexico, wrote his memorial on northern topics already referred to in connection with Vizcaino's voyage. In it he gave his views on the best methods to insure a permanent occupation of the Californias. Two hundred soldiers, also skilled as mariners, under virtuous- captains and a general of Christian principles, and under the guid ance of barefoot Carmelites, should, he thought, found the first pueblo to be defended by a fort at San Ber- nabe as the most accessible site. From this nucleus the conquest would extend up the outer coast to San 19 Nicola, Neweund WarkafffeRel, 17-38; Purchas, His Pilgrimts, i. 20-6; Gottfriedt, N. Welt, 472-5; (Boss), Leben der See-Helden, 393-402. Purchas says the pearl-ship was on her way to California. 168 MARITIME EXPLORATIONS. Diego and Monterey by land on account of the winds, but on the gulf coasts by water. On the main near the mouth of the Rio del Tizon a station was perhaps needed for the benefit of the New Mexican enterprise, with a view also to the acquisition of the Seven Cities; and opposite in California there should be another station. Of course the kingdom of Anian across the strait was not to be neglected, offering as it did a broad enlargement of God's domain and that of Spain. Pearl-diving, mining, and the working of the salinas being encouraged, the royal quintets would doubtless pay all outlay and perhaps leave a surplus with which new colonists might be sent over. Kindness must be the Indian policy, and no encomiendas or repartimien- tos were on any plea permissible. The whole scheme being thus practicable and easy, the good friar "knows not what security the king finds for his conscience in delaying the conversion of the Californians." 20 This document was forwarded to the king on De cember 21st of the same year by Francisco Ramirez de Arellano, who sent with it papers setting forth his qualifications and past services, and asked that the new conquest be intrusted to him. He seems to have preferred a like request some three months earlier. Arellano was, however, poor and could offer but his person and earnest zeal to serve his sovereign; per haps it was for that reason that no attention, so far as appears, was given to his proposal. 21 From this time California began to be commonly regarded as an island. Lok's map of 1582, as we have seen, had connected it to the main by a very nar row isthmus; Ascension's theories from 1603 tended to favor an eastern turn of the coast and a northern outlet to the gulf; Onate's reports of 1604 were still 20 Ascension, Relation, 560-74. The author alludes to another treatise written by him 'on the mode of preaching to the pagans;' and Casanate, Memorial, 27, says the same friar sent three different informes to the king besides one that was printed. 21 Pacheco and Cardenas, Col. Doc., viii. 537-8; Id., vi. 564-6. One copy makes the date Sept. 21st. CALIFORNIA AN ISLAND. 169 more positive; Cardona in 1615 believed himself to have reached a latitude of 34 in the gulf, and openly declared his belief in the insular theory; and now a rumor became current that certain adventurers in ^feft ji&Lr *<&^-4*&rr (.(k'STLmUi LASMARIAs-^Cuth tiau SJCuthuacau DUTCH MAP, 1624-5. 1620 had sailed through the passage. From this time for more than a century most maps followed this idea, but not all. I reproduce here a Dutch map of 1624-5 from Purchas. 170 MARITIME EXPLORATIONS. That there were pearl voyages undertaken during this and later periods by private individuals, of which no record has been preserved,, if any was ever made, is not unlikely. On account, however, of the difficulty of obtaining vessels and of fitting them out in secret, such private voyages could not have been very nu merous until the Sinaloa coast was more thickly peopled, and small boats were found to suffice under favorable circumstances for crossing the gulf waters. At any rate we hear of no new efforts in this direc tion until 1627, when the contador Melchor de Le- zama, with the viceroy's permission, attempting to build a vessel in the region of the modern San Bias; but on account of mosquitoes and other inconveniences lie abandoned the scheme and returned to Mexico, leaving his men in the lurch. 22 Next year Captain Antonio Bastan went to Spain and applied for a royal license to undertake the conquest at his own cost; and the consejo went so far as to refer the matter on August 2d to the vice-regal authorities for further investigation. 23 About the same time Padre Geronimo Zdrate de Salmeron wrote his Jtelccciones, intended to awaken new interest in northern enterprises. Although pro fessing to write of New Mexico, where he had served as missionary, he still included all that was known and much that was only conjectured of all the north, in cluding California. His only practical suggestion, however, respecting that province was that the entrada should be made with small vessels inside the gulf rather than- with large ones outside.' 24 When Lezaina, as already related, abandoned his men on the Jalisco coast, Francisco de Ortega, prob ably one of the company, took up the enterprise on his 22 Ortega, Relation, 440-1. The locality named was the mouth of the To- luca river in 22 probably the Tololotlan or Santiago. 23 Vent-gas, Not. Gal., i. 205; Doc. Hist. Mex., serie ii. torn. iii. 442-5. ' M Salmtron, JRelaciones, passim. ORTEGA'S EXPEDITION. 171 own account, and, making but slow progress by reason of his poverty, completed and fitted out the Madre Luisa de la Ascension of seventy tons in 1631 at a cost of 12,000 pesos, and came to Mexico to apply for a license. Having received the king's order of August. 1628 asking for information, and being assured that Ortega proposed to pay his own expenses, Viceroy Cerralvo readily granted the desired permission, which included authority to trade for pearls on condition that no violence be done to the natives. With a cap tain's commission, and instructions to" acquire all pos sible information about the country, 25 Ortega returned to the coast at the end of the year. It took yet three months to put the new craft in sailing condition ; but finally, after a formal inspection by the alcalde mayor of Acaponeta, the expedition sailed from San Pedro, at the mouth of the river of that name, 26 on February 27, 1632. The priest Diego de Nava was sent by the bishop of Guadalajara to say mass; Estevan Carbonel de Valenzuela was master with nine sailors; Alferez de Castro Tenorio com manded six soldiers; and there were three servants. Twice the Madre Luisa was obliged to return to San Pedro for repairs, but made her final departure the 20th of March. She took in supplies at San Juan de Mazatlan from the 1st to the 26th of April; crossed over from Culiacan the 1st of May; and on the 4th touched the peninsula opposite Cerralvo Island. Two days were spent here, and twelve at a large bay above, supposed to be San Bernabe in 24. Landings were frequent for religious and exploring purposes, the na tives showing no hostility. The 10th of June Ortega entered the bay of Sacramento, supposed to be iden tical with La Paz, and in the following days made an examination of Espiritu Santo and Salina islands, 25 The viceroy's license and instructions are given under date of Nov. 22, 1G31, in Doc. Ili.^t. Mcx., se"rie ii. torn. iii. 445-S; also repeated several times in the MSS. to be noticed presently. 26 She had been built at the mouth of the Toluca, or Tololotlan; and had lain for a while at Matanchel. 172 MARITIME EXPLORATIONS. naming ports Gato, San Francisco, and Espiritu Santo. Subsequently he continued his voyage up the coast to latitude 27, discovering and naming many rich pearl- beds; but on June 24th the vessel was driven by the wind across to the port of Babachilato near the mouth of the Sinaloa River. Here on July 3d a detailed narrative of the trip was sworn to by the officers and rnen; and the possession of this original narrative I was fortunate enough to secure. 27 Nava was sent to Mexico with the report, carrying also a quantity of pearls for the king. Meanwhile preparations w r ere made for a new voyage ; but orders came to send the ship under Carbon el on a trip to warn the Manila galleon of danger. This service completed, new preparations were made at Mazatlan, where at different dates from April to August 1633, various legal formalities were attended to by the alcalde mayor Juan de Arriaran. Then the Madre Luisa sailed the 8th of September and on October 7th arrived at La Paz. 28 The natives were most friendly and pearls plentiful; therefore twenty-eight men were left here under Diego de Canedo, with Brother Juan de Zuniga to say mass, while Ortega, Nava, and the sailors sailed northward. An island named San Ilde- fonso was the limit of the voyage, 29 from which, after the discovery of rich comederos of pearls, the com mander returned in less than a month to La Paz. Here the natives were boasting of their Christianity, and it was learned that Zuniga had baptized one 27 Orteya, Primera Demarcation de las Idas California^, hecJio por mi el Capitan, etc., 1632, MS., fol. 10 1. This is an original certified copy made in Mexico Nov. 22, 1C36. It includes not only the sworn account of July 3, 1632, but the viceroy's license, and a full record of the inspection at Sail Pedro before starting, with a full list of the company. The printed account Ortega, Relation de la Entrada, 449-53, is a brief re'sume' from the same source. 28 The route was, Cerralvo Island, Port San Miguel, La Paz, Espiritu Santo Island, San Francisco Javier Bay, San Ignacio Loyola Bay, San Pedro Bay, and La Paz. 29 The islands named are: San Simon y Judas, San Jose 1 , Las Animas, San Diego, Santa Cruz, Alcatraces, San Carlos Borromeo, Nra Sra de Monser- rate, Nra Sra del Cdrmen, 29, Pitahayas, Coronados, San Ildefonso, and on the return Nra Sra del Rosario. COLONY IN CALIFORNIA. 173 hundred of them, an act not approved by either Ortega or Nava. After the erection of a fort the Mad re Luisa was sent over to Sinaloa with de spatches and to bring supplies. All was couleur de rose with the little colony for a time. King Bacari and his son Prince Conichi were among the earliest and hungriest converts, baptized as Don Pedro and Don Juan respectively. Early in December, Conichi, while on a fishing expedition, was killed, with his wife, son, and thirty companions, by the hostile Guaicuri. The Spaniards took an active part in the burial, and as all Bacari 's subjects from far and near assembled to witness the ceremonies, an excellent chance was afforded to establish the most friendly relations. After this all of the nation deemed themselves under the especial protection of the Span iards, of God, and of the guns on the fort. They were docile, submitting to chastisement for offences, free from idolatry, content each with one wife, manifesting real affection for their children "and for their food" in fact model converts. Thus successful at La Paz, Ortega wished to extend his operations, and in February 1634 started westward with Nava and twenty soldiers, leaving Hernando Ortega in command, and intending to reach the Pacific and to make friends of the Guaicuri. King Bacari approved the expedition, but had, it seems, his own views in connection with it; for no sooner had Ortega reached the Guaicuri country, than the king joined him with two hundred warriors, and insisted on attacking his foes, slaying a large number of them, despite the Spaniards, who could only save a few children and baptize some of the wounded. Ortega immediately returned to La Paz, where the natives celebrated the victory and were thereafter more ardent friends of the Spaniards than ever. On the 8th of April 1634, soon after the events just noted, a detailed account of all that had been done was pre pared and sworn to by Ortega and sixteen of his 174 MARITIME EXPLORATIONS. companions. This original document as before is my authority. 30 Nothing more is known of this La Paz settlement or of the circumstances under which it was soon aban doned. The authorities, other than the one I have followed, give but a bare outline of Ortega's two trips, and tell us that the settlement was abandoned for want of food. 31 It is very likely that even pearls and affable natives may have lost some of their charms both to the secular and ecclesiastical branches of the enterprise when there was no longer anything to eat; but it must also be remembered that Ortega's purpose at this time was exploration rather than permanent colonization. It is remarkable, however, that noth ing is known of his operations for more than a year. It is said that he made some efforts to have the pre sidio of Acaponeta transferred to California, and also to obtain funds for a renewal of his enterprise; but without the original record writers have hitherto known nothing of his third survey. In January 1636 Ortega appears at the port of Santa Catalina de Sinaloa, refitting the Madre Luisa for a continuation of his explorations. Cosme Lorenzo was now his sailing-master; Roque de Vega, a Jesuit, his chaplain; and Gabriel Figueroa the clerk. His force was about a dozen men. The visita, or inspec tion, was made by Captain Francisco Bustamante of the San Felipe presidio; and the vessel sailed on the 30 Ortega, Description y Demarcation de las Yslas Calif ornias, sondas y catas de los comcderos de Pcrlas que ay en d'has Yslas, hecho por mi el Capstan Francisco de Ortega, etc., MS., 91. This is the certified original record of Oct. 11, 1G36. The title is meant to apply to the three expeditions. It con tains not only the sworn statement of April 8, 1634, but the viceroy's instruc tions and the documents connected with the inspection at Mazatlan in April- August 1633. The latter documents and an abridged narrative, more complete than that of the first voyage, are given in Ortega, delation, 452-71. 31 Venegas, Xot. CaL, i. 205-7; Clavigero, Stor. CaL, i. 162-3; Gal., Estab. y Prog., 10; Calle, Not., 109-10; Payno, in Soc. Mex. Geog., 2da ep., ii. 200; Lorenzana, in Cortes, Hint., 327; Gleeson's Hist. Cath. Ch., i. 81; Taylor's Hint. Summary, 27-8. Taylor calls the priest's name Nuna. Otondo, accord ing to Lockman's Trav. Jesuits, i. 419, found in a cave near La Paz the wreck of Ortega's vessel, or what was supposed to be such. Greeiihow, Or. and CaL, 95, mentions Vicuna in connection with the voyage. ORTEGA'S THIRD VOYAGE. 175 llth of January. Three days later the explorers anchored in a bay formerly called Pla}^a Honda, four leagues below La Paz. A terrible storm lasting eleven days drove the ship on the shore a complete wreck. The men escaped to land on a fragment of the wreck; and enough of the church utensils floated miraculously to enable Father Vega to say mass regu larly. A boat was made from pieces of the wreck and such new timber as could be found, and the 27th of February the adventurers set sail and went to La Paz. Here they found fort, church^ and everything as they had been left in the former visit. The natives wished them to remain, which was of course imprac ticable, and after Vega had baptized a few dying Californians, the boat sailed on the 10th of March. In this frail craft Ortega in about two months ex plored the gulf up to what he deemed latitude 36 SO 7 , 32 but what was in reality perhaps 29 45'. Then adverse winds prevented further progress and drove the boat southward. On the 15th of May they anchored at Santa Catalina; where next day a sworn statement of the voyage with many details, especially of pearl-deposits found, was made and duly wit nessed. 33 Nothing more is known of Ortega as an explorer. It is stated also that Estevan Carbonel, Ortega's former pilot, secured a license in some underhanded way and made a trip to the gulf in 1536. He had a theory that Ortega had failed because of the sterility of La Paz; and that there were fertile sites to the north where a colony must prosper. Of his voyage 32 The route was: Cerralvo Isl.; San Ildefonso, March 20; Tortugas Isl. and Port San Andres, 33 15', March 22d; B. San Juan, 34; Pt Caiman, 34 45', April 4th; San Sebastian Isl., 40 leagues in circumference, 36 scant, April 14th; Pt Buen Viaje, 35 30', May 4th. If we suppose S. Ildefonso and Tortugas to be the islands still so named, S. Sebastian was probably one of the two large islands, Tiburon or Angel de la Guarda, and Pt Buen Viaje may have been Cabo Final. 23 0rteya, Copia de la Demarcation qne yo cl Capitan. . .salcjo d hacer de este puerto de Santa Catalina Provincia de Sinaloa d las Yslas California-'?, 1636, MS., G 1. Similar in character to the accounts of the first and second survey. As I have said this part of the expedition has been entirely unknown. 176 MARITIME EXPLORATIONS. we only know that lie failed to find the place sought and returned to Mexico in disgrace, perhaps as a pris oner, not a little comforted nevertheless by the pos session of certain pearls he had collected. In his scheme Carbonel was aided by Francisco de Vergara, who also obtained a license, and is said to have worked in the interest of a French company. 34 .1 annex a D'AviTY's MAP, 1637. map of 1637 from D'Avity's cosmographical work of that year, to show that not all even yet accepted the insular theory, or rather it shows that the author simply followed old models long out of fashion. s *Navarrete, Viajes Ap6c., 221-4; Cardona, Memorial, 28; see also refer ences in note 31. Car bonel's license bore date of Dec. 1, 1635; and Vergara 's, transferred to Francisco Carbonel, that of Jan. 16, 1636. California*, Descubri- miento, MS. In his royal ce"dula of Feb. 20, 1638, it is stated that when it was known that Vergara had sold his license to the Frenchmen, a confisca tion of his property was ordered by the king. Baja CaL, Cedulas, MS., 61. CHAPTEE VIIL EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. 1636-1769. PORTER Y CASANATE AND BOTELLO Y SERRANO MEMORIALS AND CONTRACTS PRETENDED DISCOVERIES OF FONTE CESTIN DE CAN AS CASANATE'S EFFORTS AND MISFORTUNES Two TRIPS TO CALIFORNIA PI^ADERO'S PEARL-FISHING EXPEDITION LUCENILLA IN THE GULF ROYAL ENTHUSI ASMA NEW CONTRACT SETTLEMENT OF CALIFORNIA BY OTONDO AND THE JESUITS FOURTH FAILURE AT LA PAZ COLONY AT SAN BRUNO BUCCANEERS AND PRIVATEERS SWAN AND TOWNLEY DAMPIER WOODES ROGERS, COURTNEY, AND COOKE VICTORY AND DEFEAT FRONDAC'S VOYAGE SHELVOCKE AT THE CAPE ANSON'S VOYAGE. IN 1635 Captain Pedro Porter y Casanate, an ex perienced naval officer, was authorized by Viceroy Cerralvo to make a survey of South Sea coasts with a view to the preparation of accurate charts for the council of Indies; but when about to sail from Aca- pulco, his ship was seized through the influence ap parently of parties interested in the Vergara and Carbonel schemes. 1 But he persevered in his enter prise; and in 1636 renewed his offer to undertake the work of northern exploration. On September 17th of the same year, in connection with Captain Alonso Botello y Serrano, he presented an elaborate report intended to show how little was really known of the north-west, notwithstanding too many rumors arid theories afloat ; and to urge the importance of putting an end to the prevalent uncertainty. It was a more sensible view of the matter than was generally offered 1 Royal order of Feb. 20, 1C38, in Saja Cal, Cedillas, MS., 61; Navarrete, in trod., Ixxi.-iii. It is said that Casanate had printed in 1034 ail account of former services. HIST. N. HEX. STATES, VOL. I. 12 (177) 178 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. in memorials on the Northern Mystery. 2 Offering to undertake the enterprise at their own cost a license was granted by the viceroy under date of September 2 3d. 3 It was also about this time that Cardona re turned from Spain and presented his memorial, giving his views, dwelling on his own past losses and mis fortunes, and offering for the service his person and the money of his friends. 4 Probably there were other applicants attracted by the recent reports of pearls in the gulf. Thus in 1636 there were four persons who had licenses for Californian exploration, Ortega, Carbonel, "Vergara, and Casanate. From this state of things trouble was sure to result. Ortega desired to continue his expeditions and protested against other licenses being granted in view of what he had actually accom plished. The matter was brought before the authori ties in Mexico, and the original expediente, or transcript of record in the case, has furnished my authority for Ortega's voyages, as it gives me also authority for the final settlement. 5 The decision, contained in a decree of Viceroy Cadereita of November 11, 1636, was to the effect that Ortega's last expedition had been made without legal authority, since Cerralvo's license had expired with that viceroy's term of office; and that all the other licenses should be considered as revoked, pending new investigations and royal orders. Casanate was thus obliged to suspend preparations on which he and his friends had expended some eighteen thousand pesos. On his way to Spain with complaints he was captured by Dutch pirates and kept a prisoner for six 2 Botello y Serrano, and Porter y Casanate, Declaration que hitieron de las convenicn'cias que seguiran de descubrir como se comunica por la California d Mar del Sur con el del N. 1636. See Hist. Northwest Coast, i. 107, this series. 3 Calif orniasy Descubrimiento. MS. 4 Cardona, Memorial, 40-7. 6 Calif ornias, Descubrimiento, MS., 28 1. This contains the royal regula tions on discoveries of July 13, 1573, bearing among others the autograph signature of F. Antonio de la Ascension ; a report of Alvarez Serrano, fiscal of the audiencia, dated Oct. 30th; a decree of the audiencia dated Nov. llth; and the final order of the viceroy of the same date. CASANATE'S MEMORIAL. 179 months in 1637; but after his escape he obtained the royal order, which I have already cited under date of February 20, 1638, requiring haste on the part of the viceroy in forwarding papers and reaching a definite settlement. Meanwhile, with a view to secure or hasten the royal approval, a new memorial was pre pared and presented, perhaps in 1638. In it the author amplified all the points previously urged and exerted all his ingenuity to suggest new ones. 6 In this document he eulogizes in the most enthusiastic and exaggerated terms California, its people, and its pro ducts; its mineral, commercial, and spiritual wealth, which can be lost to Spain only by the most inexcusa ble negligence. All statistics of gold, silver, pearls, coral, amber, and salt which were accessible in the archives as supplemented by a lively imagination were laid before the king. The need of a harbor for the relief of the galleons; the ease with which the voyage may be made from Sinaloa; the lessened cost of for warding supplies to New Mexico by way of the gulf; the impulse to be given to the Culiacan trade; the geographical enigmas to be solved; the rumors of grand cities, of golden lakes, of mighty rivers, of giants, of white men, to be verified; facilitated intercourse with Anian, Japan, Tartary, and China; the necessity of precautions against foreigners; the avarice and incom petence of former navigators; all are elaborated in a series of twenty-seven articles, resting on the author ity of all who have made expeditions to California. 7 The arguments employed were sufficiently forcible to convince the king, and in 1640 Casanate received the requisite commission with the exclusive right to navi- 6 Casanate, Memorial del Almirante D. Pedro Porter Casanate al Rey, recom- endando una nueva espedicion d la California, etc., in Pacheco, Col. Doc., ix. 19-20. The original was a printed document in the Biblioteca Nacional. 7 Besides those already referred to in connection with different voyages, there are named the following who have expressed their views: Capt. Juan Lopez de Vicuiia, Gonzalo de Francia, Capt. Alonso Ortiz de Sandoval, Se bastian Gutierrez, and several Mexican officials. It must riot be supposed that all these made separate voyages to California. Perhaps all were simply companions of the leaders that had been removed. 180 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. gate the gulf. 8 No limit of time was fixed, and the admiral was detained for several years in Spain on other service. It was in 1640 that Bartolome' de Fonte. admiral of New Spain and Peru, made his famous voyage to the north, starting from Callao on April 3d, according to the narrative first made public in I708. d He had four ships, but one of them, the Santa Lucia under Diego de Penalosa, was detached to explore the gulf, while the admiral went on up to the Rio de los Reyes in 53. Above this point the continent seems to have been a complicated net-work of islands, straits, lakes, and rivers, where the navigators had but to choose a route, and where they continued their explorations in ships or boats from June to September. They did not pass through into the Atlantic; in fact none of the channels they tried would permit such a passage to ships; but pressing on in boats they met a Boston ship from the other side. They reached a latitude as high as 86, and .they had on board Jesuits who had previously established missions as high as 66! In all the voluminous discussions on the authen ticity of this narrative there never was produced the slightest evidence in its favor. It rested entirely on the prevalent ignorance of northern geography, not withstanding which ignorance the best writers pro nounced it a fabrication. The expedition demands no farther consideration in a chapter of historical annals; the narrative like that of Maldonado's achievements will receive elsewhere some notice as a bibliographical curiosity. 10 8 License dated Aug. 8th. Casanate also received the order of Santiago, and space for eight tons of private merchandise. Galle, Mem. y &ot. Sac,* 110-12; Raja Gal., Cedulas, MS., 65. tt Fonte, Letter from Admiral, in Monthly Miscellany, or Memoirs for the Curiout, Lond., 1708. 10 See Hist. Northwest Coast, i. 115 et seq., this series. There are some slight indications in the use of Pefialosa's name and a scrap of evidence given by Navarrete that the London perpetrator of the hoax may have based it re motely on a Spanish original. CESTIN DE CAfrAS. 181 Viceroy Escalona in 1642 ordered Luis Cestin de Canas, spoken of as governor of Sinaloa, but really comandante of the presidio, to cross over and explore California. He sailed from Babachilato in July, passed the port of San Ignacio, noted a farallon some twenty leagues from the latter port, and landed at the port, or island, of San Josd. From this point he explored the Calif ornian shore for forty leagues to La Paz, and then returned, the voyage having taken but a month. Canas was accompanied by Padre Jacinto Cortes, the second Jesuit, not the first as has been supposed, to visit the land his order was destined to occupy. There was nothing of the marvellous in the reports brought back either to viceroy or provincial. The natives were well disposed, some pearls were obtained, but the country was sterile and altogether unpromising. 11 In 1643 Porter y Casanate was ordered to fulfil his contract in the New World. 12 With some men and families he left Cddiz in June and arrived at Vera Cruz in August, setting to work with zeal and much success to gain friends, money, and recruits, greatly aided by the ecclesiastical authorities who desired the salvation of Californian souls. At the end of Novem ber Alonso Gonzalez Barriga was sent with a force of sailors and carpenters to build two vessels on the coast of Nueva Galicia, one fragata, the Rosario, hav ing been previously chartered. The intention was to sail the next spring. 11 A letter of Padre Cortes in Ribas, Hist. Triumphos, 441-2, seems to be the original of all that is known of this voyage. Venegas, Not. Cal. , i. 209- 11, says the cause of this voyage was the loss of the journals and maps of preceding ones. Alegre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, ii. 236-7, states that the results caused Escalona to advocate in Spain the conquest of California. Lorenzana, Cortes, I/ixt., 327, says that Cortes founded the mission of San Jose", evidently confounding this M'ith a later expedition. Clavigero, Stor. Cal., i. 1G3-4, and Cavo, Tres Siglos, ii. 12, make the date 1640, and the latter calls the leader Luis Cestinos. See also Cal., Estab. y Prog., 19; Mofras, Explor., i. 102; Burners Chron. Hist.,iv. 357 ; Browne's L. Cat., 28; Shea's Cath. Miss., 89. 12 The leading authority from this point is Casanate, Carta Relation, in Pacheco and Cardenas, Col. Doc., ix. ,5-18, which is a fragment of a private letter to a friend narrating the course of events down to May 1644, the whole having extended down to June 24, 1649. 182 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. Now came news that the pichilingues were ravaging the coast of Chile, and would soon come north to lie in wait for the Manila galleon. To warn and protect the galleon there was no craft available but the Rosario which lay at the mouth of the Rio de San Pedro. Casanate therefore hastened to the coast in December, with the cosmographer Perez de Soto and the chap lain Luna, to fit out the fragata for a cruise of three months under Barriga. She passed out over the bar on January 3, 1644, took ballast at Matanchel, 13 and sailed on the 9th by way of Mazatlan and the Rio Navito to Cape San Lucas, where she anchored on the 25th probably in San Bernabe Bay. Sentinels were posted on the hills to watch for the galleon, for whose benefit signals of smoke or fire were constantly displayed; but she passed without seeing or being seen, and passed unmolested to Acapulco. 14 Barriga also made a short trip of five days up the outer coast. Like other visitors to the peninsula, he found friendly natives greatly in fear of the Guaicuri, a few pearls, and what were thought to be good mineral prospects. The return was from the 21st to the 25th of February to the mouth of the Rio Santiago. The chaplain arrived in Mexico only fourteen days after having said mass in California. After despatching the Rosario Casanate located his dock-yard with all his stores in six leagues up the Rio Santiago, or Tololotlan, in a spot deemed secure from pichilingues, but exposed to bats and mosquitoes and Hoods, where he built dwellings and warehouses, set his men to felling timber for the vessels, and returned to Mexico. Soon after Padre Luna's arrival with the notice of Barriga's return, there came news that cer tain men had run away from the ship-yard with a boat and such valuables as they could carry. A little later came the more serious tidings that vessels, tim- 13 Navarrete says she sailed from Sintiqnipac (Centipac), an unknown port, and was forced into Matanchel by the weather. 44 Several writers state that Casanate convoyed the galleon to Acapulco. CASANATE'S MISFORTUNES. 183 ber, stores, and everything at the Santiago station had been burned on April 24th. A Portuguese, jeal ous of Casanate's exclusive privileges, was the insti gator of the deed, himself instigated, as the admiral piously exclaims, by Satan. From the devil's oppo sition, however, Casanate argued his fear and the danger of his realms, and was therefore not discour aged though his losses were twenty thousand pesos. He renewed his preparations and by a third memorial tried unsuccessfully to get the appointment of cornan- dante of Sinaloa as a means of facilitating the con- O quest of the contra costa. 15 Meanwhile the king on October 11, 1645, had sent his thanks through the viceroy for the zeal displayed by Casanate; and after hearing of the latter's mis fortune he sent orders November 10, 1647, that every possible aid and encouragement should be afforded for a resumption of the enterprise. With a letter from Sinaloa dated April 13, 1649, Casanate sent a narra tive of his voyage which I have not been able to find ; announced his intention of continuing his efforts the following summer; and asked for the office of alcalde mayor of Sinaloa. The king's reply of August 6, 1650, was a recommendation that the explorer's schemes should still be favored and his demands granted if there was no serious objection; but he also desired an explanation of the long delays, reminding Casanate that his license was not unlimited in respect of time. This is the last definite record I find on the subject. Respecting the unfortunate admiral's voyage and subsequent operations, we are told by Venegas, Alegre, and others that he finally succeeded in com pleting two vessels on the Sinaloa coast, 16 and with 15 Here ends the fragment of Casanate's letter. Navarrete says he ob tained the desired comandancia with orders to the viceroy to aid his scheme, but that the orders were not carried out. Introd. Sutil y Mex., Ixxiv.-v. Alegre, I lift. Comp. Jevus, ii. 328-30, implies that the burning was the re sult of carelessness rather than malice. Calle, Mem. y Not. Sac., 110-12, says that Casanate notified the king of his misfortune in letters of Feb. 20th, 25th, and 20, 1G25, and that the king's order for his relief was dated April llth. 10 Alegre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, ii. 328-30, copied also in Dice. Univ., viii. 184 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. them made a trip to California in 1648, accompanied by the Jesuit friars, Jacinto Cortes and Andres Baez, originally named by the provincial for the service. After seeking in vain on the peninsula coast a suitable site for their colony the voyagers returned, the ves sels were perhaps ordered again to act as convoys to the Manila ship, and the enterprise was thus finally abandoned. 17 After a blank of nearly twenty years in maritime annals, two vessels were built at Valle de Banderas, and in them Bernardo Bernal de Pinadero undertook the reduction of California under a commission from Felipe IV. Once in the gulf, however, he gave his exclusive attention to the search for pearls, cruelly ill-treating the natives, who were forced to serve as divers, and thus well nigh destroying the favorable impression left by some of the earlier Spaniards. The harvest of pearls is said to have been rich, and in dividing the spoil the adventurers quarrelled, with some loss of life. Pinadero was not well received in Mexico, but was nevertheless required to repeat his voyage in fulfilment of his contract, as he did in 1667 with two new vessels built at Chacala, without any practical results that are known. 18 The voyage of Captain Francisco Lucenilla y Torres was made in 1668. Two Franciscan friars, Juan Caballero y Carranco and Juan Bautista Ramirez, accompanied the expedition, besides a chaplain who did not cross the gulf. The two vessels sailed on May 633-4, is very enthusiastic over Casanate's pure life and pious example during his stay in Sinaloa. He showed the greatest respect for the padres, aided in decorating the streets for processions, and washed the feet of the poor. 17 Royal orders of Oct. 11, 1645, Nov. 10, 1647, and Aug. 6, 1650, in Baja Cat., Cedilla*, MS., 63-6. See also ftibas, Hist. Triumphos, 162, 750; Cavo, TresSiglos, ii. 33; CorMs, Hist., 327-8; Clavigero, Stor. Gal, 164-5; Gal, Estab. y Prog., 10-11; Mofras, Explor. , i. 102; Browne's L. Gal., 28. 18 Venegas, Not. Gal., i. 216-7, seems to be the original authority, refer ring, however, to a MS., by Padre Kino. Others follow Venegas in a mere mention of the voyage: A leqre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, ii. 437-8; Gal. , Estdb. y Prog. , ii.; Cavo, Trcs Stglos, ii. 47-8; Navarrc.te, Sutil y Mex., Ixxxiv. ; Browne's L. Gal., 28; Payno 'in Soc. Mex. Geog., 2da e>, ii. 200; Dice. Univ., x. 136-7; JZamacois, Hist. Mej., v. 394. LUCEXILLA AND PIftADERO. 185 1st from Chacala, and on the 13th touched at Maza- tlan. Crossing over a few days later they touched at La Paz, Port San Bernabd, and one or two other points, finding the natives well disposed; but as the country seemed barren and inhospitable Lucenilla decided to return, or possibly was driven to the main in a storm. At any rate the usual sworn statement of the trip was dated the 4th of July. The license seems to have required a settlement in California; but there are indications that Lucenilla's real aim was pearl-fishing. 19 It is probable that several unrecorded expeditions in quest of pearls were made in these years. The government required each would-be conqueror to fit out his fleet at his own cost, and imposed such condi tions in connection with settlement, survey, and treat ment of natives that the venture was deemed risky notwithstanding the rich comederos. It was safer to make private unauthorized trips in smaller vessels. Pinadero's misdeeds in connection with his Cali fornia trips depend mainly upon the statement of Venegas, whose authority was Father Kino. Perhaps they were exaggerated, as there was trouble between the navigator and the Jesuits. At any rate they were not made public for several years. Down to 1678 Pinadero considered his contract still in force, and continued his efforts to carry out his schemes of 19 The most definite account is that in Robles, Diario, 61-2. The same writer, 109, says this attempt of the Franciscans to obtain the Calif ornias was one of the causes of a reprimand from Spain to the commissary in 1671. Lorenzana, in Cortts, Hist. , 328, followed by Payno in Soc. Mex. Gcog. , 2da p., ii. 200, attributes the failure to the opposition of the Jesuits. Clavigero, Stor. CaL, i. 165-6, pronounces this a calumny,- as there were no Jesuits in California at the time; but Lorenzana probably did not refer to Jesuits in California. Clavigero gives scarcity of food as the cause of failure. Cavo, Tres Siglos, ii. 48, adds the barrenness of the coast. Alegre, Hist. Comp. Jesm, ii. 49-50, says the efforts of the friars were counteracted by the avarice of the Spaniards. The padres passed from the Yaqui to Nayarit. Niel, Apunt. , 70, says Lucenilla explored from Conception B. to Cerralvo Island. Taylor, Hist. Summary, 28-9, calls the name Lucinella; andGleeson, Hist. Cath. Ch.,i. 82-3, Luzan villa. See also Navarrete, Introd., Ixxxiv. ; CaL, Estab. y Proy., 11; Dice. Univ., ix. 750-1; Greenhow's Or. and Col., 95; Zamacois, Hist. Alfj., v. 413; Vetancvrt, Chr6n. Sl Evan., 117. 186 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. conquest, professing at different times to have vessels in readiness. In 1671 he petitioned for the coman- dancia of Sinaloa for a series of years, and for author ity to found two Jesuit missions, one on the peninsula and the other on the main, using for that purpose the funds bequeathed to the company by Alonso Fernan dez de la Torre. The king looked favorably on the proposition; but the Jesuit provincial reported that the Torre estate was in litigation and not likely to yield funds for the proposed missions, though the company would gladly furnish missionaries; and some officials doubted the practicability of effecting the permanent occupation of the peninsula by private enterprise. The king, however, manifested increasing interest in the matter; ordered the viceroy to make new investigations; and insisted that a contract should be made, if not with Pinadero, then with some other responsible man, the expense to be borne if possible by the contractor, but otherwise by the royal treasury. In the investigations that followed in Mexico it was decided by the audiencia not only that Pifiadero's de mands were excessive and his sureties insufficient, but that he deserved punishment for past irregularities that had now come to light. But the project was kept in view, and under the new financial conditions it was not difficult to find an empresario to undertake the conquest of California at government expense. Late in 1678 a contract was made with Isidro Otondo y Antillon, receiving the royal approval at the end of 1679. Details of the contract are not extant, but Otondo was not burdened with a large part of the cost. 20 20 The best authority on these transactions is a series of four royal orders, dated Nov. 11, 1G74, May 20, 1676, June 18, 1676, and Dec. 29, 1679, with frequent allusions to other documents in Baja CaL, Ctdulas, MS., 67-75. See also Montemayor Svmarios, 2, for a ccklula of Feb. 26, 1677; Veiiefjas, Not. CaL, i. 218 et seq. ; Alcr/re, Hist. Comp. Jcsits, iii. 41-57, repeated in Dice. Univ., viii. 278-81; Clavigero, Stor. CaL, i. 167-74. Some of the best authori ties call the empresario Atondo; but the probabilities seem to favor the other form. Niel, Apunt., 20, calls him Hondo. Burney, Citron. Hist., iv. 345-50, followed by Taylor, says he was governor of Sinaloa. OTONDO'S EXPEDITION. 187 A fleet of three vessels was fitted out at Chacala on the Sinaloa coast. It was expected to be ready in the autumn of 1681; but delays were caused by the necessity of transporting many needed supplies from Mexico and Vera Cruz. 21 The Jesuits were intrusted with the spiritual conquest, and the provincial named for the duty, fathers Eusebio Kino, Juan Bautista Copart, and Pedro Matias Goni, the first being supe rior and also cosm6grafo mayor. Goni did not go to California, however, at first, and Father Jose Guijosa of the order of San Juan de Dios seems' to have made the trip in his stead. 22 The Limpia Conception, capitana, and the San Jose y San Francisco Javier, almiranta, with about one hun dred men under captains Francisco Pereda y Arce, and Bias de Guzman y Cordoba, and Alferez Martin de Verastegui, sailed from Chacala on January 18, 1G83. 23 A sloop was to follow with supplies, and did start, but never joined the fleet nor reached California. Winds were at first contrary, and Otondo was forced to touch February 9th at Mazatlan, and March 18th at the mouth of the Sinaloa. But finally he crossed over from San Ignacio and sighted Cerralvo Island after one night's voyage. After three clays they were able to approach the coast, which they followed north westward for some eight leagues, and on March 30th entered the bay of La Paz, 24 where they anchored on 21 King's Letters of Aug. 15th and Dec. 31, 1681, in Baja CaL, Ccdulas, MS., 75-8. 22 According to Ale^jre, iii. 27-8, a secular chaplain for the expedition had been appointed in 1681 by the bishop of Durango, but at the request of the Jesuits this act was overruled by the government. P. Goni's name is* also written Gogni, Gony, and Coqui. It is not unlikely that Gogni was the original name. Mofras, Explor., i. 103, adds Salvatierra! 23 Royal communications of June 16, 1683, and March 28, 1684, in Baja Cal., Cedulas, MS., 78-9. Several authorities make the date Jan. 18th; and Venegas, followed by several, March 18th. 21 Otondo, Nouvflle Descente des Espacjnols dans VIsle de Califomie, at the end of Voyages de C Empereur de la Chine, 81-110. This was doubtless the first published account of the voyage, having been taken from Otondo's let ters and printed in 1685. Otondo, Delation d'une Descente das Esjiagnofs dans la Cal'ifornie en 1683. Traduite de Castillan, in Voiarjes au Nord, iii. 288-300, is the same narrative; and the same appears in substance in Lockman's Trav els of the Jesuits, i. 408-20. 188 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. the 1st of April, landed next day, and on the 5th set up the holy cross, and the royal standard saluted by a volley of musketry, while all the company shouted Viva Carlos II.! The province was named Santisima Trinidad de las Californias, and the locality Nuestra Sefiora de La Paz, the document of possession being signed by the officers and padres before Diego de Salas, the royal escribano. 25 No natives had been seen, a'nd this fact, considered in connection with former hospitality, seemed strange, and even suggested doubts as to the identity of La Paz, about whose exact latitude authorities differed. The bay was, however, the veritable La Paz; neither had the people, as w T as feared, been annihilated by the fierce Guaicuri; but the acts of pearl-seekers had cooled the native friendship for Spaniards and made the harbor no longer the Bay of Peace. Still the site was deemed favorable, being well watered, and here the camp was .fortified. The natives began to appear in small numbers and in hostile attitude, expressing by gestures their wish to be rid of the intruders. Trivial particulars of the process by which very gradually the good will of the natives was gained through appeals to their palates are given at considerable length, and with a few unimportant discrepancies in Otondo's ver sion and that of the friars, 26 but require no extended notice here. The inhabitants soon became so friendly as to come freely to the camp, to accept gifts, and even to steal such articles as struck their fancy ; but it does not appear that they returned as a trite to the shores of the bay. Wholesome fear was promoted by a pub lic test of the musket as compared with the bow; a church and cabins were built; the friars, after putting 25 The document is given in full in Aleyre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, iii. 43-5, and from it the dates are taken, differing slightly from those given by other authori ties. Otondo, Nouvelle Descente, states that possession was taken April 1st. Kino, Diario, 440, afterward speaks of March 25th as the anniversary of the arrival in California. 26 As represented by Venegas. Otondo naturally exaggerates, as the padres underrate, the hostile movements of the Indians. OTONDO IN CALIFORNIA. 189 themselves in communication with the natives, devoted themselves to the acquisition of the language; and, all ?>ing smoothly, the Conception w.as sent over to Bio aqui for supplies. 27 Two expeditions were made for short distances into the interior, the first south-west to the home of the Guaicuri, hostile to the end, and the second eastward to the territory of the Coras, a gentle but very avari cious people. On June 6th the former people ap peared in arms before the fort at La Paz, bent on carrying out their oft-repeated threats to drive out the Spaniards; but the admiral sallied out and scattered the assailants with shouts and wild gestures causing much terror but no bloodshed. Peace reigned nomi nally for a time, but later a mulatto ship-boy ran away and the Guaicuri were charged by the Coras with his murder. Their chief was therefore imprisoned, not withstanding the entreaties, protests, and threats of his subjects, who in their fury planned a general attack for July 1st and invited the Coras to join them, but were betrayed by that politic people, who desired nothing more than the defeat of their foes. Extra precautions were taken, and at the first appearance of the hostile band, ten or twelve of their number were killed by a volley from the pedrero and the rest fled in terror. 23 This act of Otondo, like many later ones, was not approved by the Jesuits, and subsequent misfortunes were looked upon as a retribution. The soldiers, who before the attack had shown a spirit of timidity almost amounting to cowardice, now became more panic- stricken than ever, insisting that the whole country would be aroused to fall upon arid destroy them, and tearfully praying the admiral to take them away even 27 Here, with a vague allusion to explorations inland, which may or may not be those referred to by the padres, Otondo's narrative, the Nouvelie 2)e- scen'e, ends abruptly, giving no information about subsequent troubles. 2b ln Salvatierra's report to the viceroy of May 25, 1705, it is stated that Otondo killed some Guaicuri while eating boiled maize at a feast to which .they had been invited. Venegas, Not. Cal., ii. 155. 190 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. if it were only to land them on a desert island. The remonstrances of officers and padres availed nothing; supplies were becoming scarce from the non-arrival of the vessels; and on July 14th the settlement was abandoned. The Conception was met near the mouth of the gulf, and the two vessels crossed together to the main. Otondo refitted his vessels in Sinaloa, largely at his own expense it is said, and recrossed the gulf a few months later, arriving on October 6, 1683, at a bay north of La Paz, 23 which from the day was named San Bruno. Here a site was chosen for the camp some what less than a league from the shore, where there was a supply of not very good water, in a sterile coun try. A fort, church, and the required dwellings were built with the aid of the natives, who were friendly from the first, and were willing to work or to learn the doctrina for a small daily allowance of pozole. Ten days after landing the San Jose sailed with despatches for the viceroy, reporting progress and asking for men and money. A little later the Conception made a trip to the Yaqui and returned November 20th with food and some live-stock, including goats, horses, and mules. The San Bruno settlement was kept up about two years, the admiral and his men occupying the time in protecting the camp and in exploring the country, while the padres devoted themselves to conciliating the natives, learning their language, and the usual routine of missionary duty. Padre Kino in his diary 30 details most conscientiously the to us petty occurrences of each day, and a more uneventful record 29 Possibly Ensenada de San Juan about 151. north of Loreto. Taylor, Hist. Sum., 29-SO, incorrectly identifies it with Loreto. On Aug. 3cl, news had reached Mexico of the former safe arrival in California. Robles, Diario, 381. s Kino, Tercera Entrada (de. los Jesuitas en California), in Doc. Hist. Mcx., se"rie iv. torn. i. 408-C8, although evidently but a fragment of the original, is acomplete diary of events at San Bruno from Dec. 21, 1683, to May 8, 1G84. Venegas refers to a MS. J/ixtoria de Sonora by Kino, referring perhaps to the letters embodied in the Aposttilicos Afanes. Alegre also refers to Kino's jour nal for some dates not included in the diary as printed. EVENTS AT SAN BRUNO. 191 it would be Lard to imagine. Prominent events were the first rain on January 5th, a frost, and a temblor; also the gathering and eating of the first corn, beans, and melons of California production. The stocks were continually brought into play to punish runaway ser vants or thieving Californians. Difficulties of the latter class usually resulted in a withdrawal from camp of all the Edues or Didius, according to the nationality of the unlucky culprit; and on such occa sions there was great, terror among the Spaniards, who, as we have seen, w T ere conquistadores of a very mild type. But all these troubles terminated uni formly in the return of the penitent and hungry prod igals to prayers and pozole. In all their doings the were mere children, crying to sleep in the same room with the padre, sorrowful because the painted virgin would not give them her baby to hold, begging for a ride on the padre's mule, delighted with the move ments of a rubber ball, and filled with wonder at the coming to life of half-drowned flies, by the aid of which the friars explained the resurrection. There were, moreover, industrial agitations in those primitive days, and on divers occasions the conflicting claims of capital and labor had to be conciliated by concessions a handful of maize wa added to a week's rations. The food distributed was for the most part from the stores given by the missionaries across the gulf, and on one occasion the padres refused to dis tribute gifts of clothing offered by Otondo in the king's name. They were often displeased at what they termed the admiral's needless severity; but for an officer in those days to please the missionaries was almost impossible. He must be a mere machine for the preservation of order, an object of terror, like a pedrero, feared but not loved by the natives, com pletely under the control of the padres, and to be conciliated only through their influence. Then we read of the weather, and of the day when the sickness of the tortillera cut off the supply of tortillas for the 192 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. officers; of minor expeditions to neighboring ranche- rias, to the shore for fish, or to a distant spring for water needed by the sick; of the falling of the cross on the shore of the bay, and of the day when one of the padres found it necessary to take physic. On the whole the missionaries were content with, the country, their progress, and the prospects. Four hundred converts were ready for baptism, but only to the dying was the rite administered, for the danger of having to abandon the country was foreseen. Of the many trips into the interior, or up and down the coast for short distances, we have no information that seems of any geographical importance. One at tempt was made to reach the South Sea, but the roughness of the country and scarcity of food pre vented success. Kino also speaks of two expeditions to the south in search of the bay of San Dionisio and of the Danzantes, both of which were seen from a distance. 31 The admiral with his men was very much less pleased with the prospect than w r ere the Jesuits. Their exploration had revealed but a rough and sterile country, with no mines, poor water, an unhealthy cli mate, and unreliable, inefficient, though gentle, in habitants. There was some suffering from want of food and from sickness, before the San Jose arrived on August 10th, bringing Padre Copart, twenty sol diers, fresh supplies, and eleven months' pay for the whole force. Kino, a little later, went over to the Sonora coast, 32 and his absence doubtless accounts for our limited information about subsequent events. Copart and Goni continued their labors with great zeal, but the Spaniards became daily more and more disgusted with a land that promised neither fortune sl Kino, Tercera Entrada, 411. The same writer describes a trip made by him with Alfe"rez Nicolas Contreras and eight men to the N. and N. w., in which some names of localities perhaps merit a record 3 leagues along, or over, the Sierra Giganta to S. Isidro, 3 1. to San Pablo, 6 1. N. to Rio de Sto Tomas, up the river w. and s. w. to the summit of the sierra, C 1. in the valley of S. Fabiano in the Didiu country, rancheria of S. Nicolas, and return by a different route to S. Bruno. This journey was made in December 1683. *' z Aleyre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, iii. 56. ANOTHER FAILURE. 193 nor pleasure. Fate seems to have opposed the Jes uits, for the season was unusually dry even for this arid country. Otondo finally despatched the Conwp- cion to the north with orders to find, if possible, a better site, while he in the San Jose, after carrying the sick to Sinaloa, sailed to make a more thorough search for pearl comederos. Before his departure, however, the question of remaining at San Bruno had been discussed in a general junta, and the conflicting views of the two parties were put in writing, and sent to the viceroy. In September 1685 the viceroy's reply was received by Otondo at San Ignacio. Its purport was that no additional settlements were to be formed, though the establishment at San Bruno must be sustained if pos sible until a more suitable site could be found; but the capitana had returned without having been able to find such a site; the survey of the almiranta for pearls had been equally unsuccessful; provisions failed again, and Otondo had to transfer his whole company to Matanchel, probably at the end of 1685. Here he received the order, so familiar to west-coast voyagers of the period, and perhaps not altogether unwelcome in this case, to escort the pichilingue-threatened gal leon; 33 one more was added to the list of failures to conquer California, a failure which in this instance cost the government 225,400 pesos. 34 Subsequently, during the same or the next year, although the gov ernment refused pecuniary aid to Lucenilla, who was disposed to renew his attempts, yet it retained confi dence in Otondo, and ordered an advance payment of 33 Dec. 18, 1685, news reached Mexico from Acapulco that the China ship had arrived on the 14th in company with Otondo's two vessels, which had joined her on Nov. 28th. Robles, Diario, 442-3. 34 See also on Ortega's operations in addition to preceding references : Navarrete, Sutil y Mex., lxxxiv.-v.; Cortes, Hist., 328; Cavo, Tres Siylo*, ii. 63; Col-., JSvtdb. ?/ Prog., 11-12; Lassepas, B. Gal, 165; Vetancvrt, C/irou. Sto Evan., 117-18; Mofras, Explor., i. 103; Gordon's Hist. Mex., 92; Doyle's Hist. Pious Fund, 2; Forbes' Gal, 12-13; Gal, Hist. Chret., 23-31; Dice. Univ., i. 350; iv. 547; Ewudero, Not. Son., 12; Alvarez, Estudios, iii. 282-7; Winterbotham'* Hist. Geog., iv. 109; Gleeson's Hist. Cath. Ch., i. 83-4; Tut- hill's Hist. Cal. , 37-40. HIST. N. MEX. STATES, VOL. I. 13 194 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. 30,000 pesos for a new voyage under that leader. On account of the Tarahumara revolt, however, and other pressing needs for money, the payment was never made. 35 In 1685 two vessels under Swan and Townley, separating themselves from the fleet of freebooters in southern waters, came north for a plundering cruise, the main purpose being as usual to capture the Manila galleon. Their varied experiences and disasters between Acapulco and Jalisco were not within the territorial limits of this volume, and have been else where noted. 36 In January 1686, however, Captain Swan sailed north ward from Banderas Valley and his ship reached a point just above Mazatlan, the explora tion being continued in boats farther north in search of Culiacan, which was not reached. Swan turned about at the beginning of February to meet with fresh disasters in the south, losing fifty men at the Rio Tololotlan. After this discouragement to British enterprise, the ship sailed for Cape San Lucas but was driven back by the winds after passing the Maza tlan Islands ; and at the end of March sailed from Cape Corrientes for the East Indies. William Dampier, historian of the expedition, does not quit the coast without having his say about Californian geography and the strait of Anian. I reproduce his map of this region, and add in a note some geographical items from his text. 37 Venegas, followed by later writers, barely mentions a voyage to the gulf undertaken at his own expense in 1694 by Francisco de Itamarra, who it seems had been one of Otondo's companions. He accomplished 35 Gal, Estdb. y Prog., 12; Venegas, Not. Gal, L 238-9; Akfjre, Hist. Gomp. Jesus, iii. 60; Clavif/cro, Stor. Gal, i. 175-6; Browne's L. Gal, 30-1; Burners Ghron. Hist., iv. 350-1. * 6 See Hist. Mex., iii., this series. 37 Dampier's New Voyage round the World, i. 237-78. See also Hist. Northwest Coast, i. 112, this series. He puts C. Corrientes in 20 28'. The northern point of Valle de Banderas is called Pt Pontique in 20 50'. Two PRIVATE VOYAGES. 195 nothing beyond ascertaining that the natives of San Bruno had not forgotten the taste of pozole, arid were clamorous for conversion. 38 This was the last expedition of the century save those by which the actual occupation of the peninsula was effected, and which with subsequent explorations of the gulf will be included in the annals of Baja California and So- nora in future chapters. Private individuals it must be supposed continued to despatch small craft from the contra costa manned chiefly by Yaqui crews to seek pearls, often with profitable reslilts; but it was now well understood that more formal and extensive expeditions including in their plan the settlement of the country could not be undertaken except at a serious loss. There were, however, several foreign expeditions into these waters during the first half of the eigh teenth century, which require brief mention in con nection with this subject, and which may be more small "barren isles 1 1. west called Isle of Pontique (Las Marietas); Isl. of Chametly, 6 small isles in 23 10' and 31. from main. (There are no such islea off Chametla; by the map they must be the Mazatlan group.) Six or seven 1. N. N. w. from Chametly Isles, in 23 30', is the mouth of a lake which runs about 12 1. parallel with the coast, and is called Rio de Sal, Landing at the N. E. of this lake they marched to Massaclan. (The lake must be that at the mouths of the Canas and San Pe dro, but this does not agree with either text or map.) Rosario, on a river of same name, whose mouth is in 2251',having near its mouth a hill called Caput Cavalli. (This would seem to be Rio Chametla, and Rosario has preserved its name.) Rio Oleta, eastward of Rio Rosario, but not found (San Pedro or Cauas) ; Rio St lago in 22 15'; Santa Pecaque, 5 1. up the river and four hours' march from the bank; Santiago 3 1. off, and Com- postela 21 1. DAMPIER'S MAP, 1G99. 3ri }'<>n<>r}a*, Not. Cat., i. 230-40; Ategre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, iii. 81; Clavi- ge.ro, Star., CaL, 176; Gal., Estab. y Prog., 13. 196 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. conveniently noticed here than elsewhere: those of Dampier, Rogers, Frondac, Shelvocke, and Anson. Captain William Dampier, a companion of Swan eighteen years before, in 1704 entered northern waters HARRIS' MAP, 1705. on the St George with sixty-four men. On the Co- lima coast in November and December he took several prizes, one of them a bark from California carrying a few pearls. On December 6th Dampier sighted and attacked the Manila galleon; but the guns of that DAMPIER AXD ROGERS. 197 craft proved too strong for the St Georc/e, and the A O -/ ' discomfited British had to withdraw from the conflict and lose the golden treasure they had come so far to seek. This expedition did not reach the Sinaloa or California coasts; but the author of the narrative introduced some unimportant geographical material from Swan's observations, 39 and a careless examina tion perhaps of some Spanish authority. I reproduce on the preceding page a map of 1705 from Harris' collection of voyages. 40 Yet a third time Danipier returned to the coasts of New Spain, on this occasion as pilot on Woodes Kogers' fleet. The DuJze, of 320 tons and 30 guns, with 117 men under captains Rogers arid Thomas Dover famous for "Dover's powders" rather than for his skill as a seaman and the Duchess of 260 tons, 26 guns, with 108 men under captains Stephen Courtney and Edward Cooke, duly commissioned as privateers, left England in August 1708. A year later, having doubled Cape Horn, rescued from the island of Juan Fernandez Alexander Selkirk of Robinson Crusoe fame, and met with many adventures, the two vessels with a companion prize, the Marquis, under Captain Cooke, and a bark as tender, left Central America and sighted Cape Corrientes on October 2,. 1709. Most of October was passed at the Tres Marias,, where a supply of wood, water, and turtles was ob tained. The point of California was decided by a majority vote and all movements of the fleet were uniformly decided upon by vote in full council, the record being preserved in the narrative to be the best cruising-ground for the expected galleon, and therefore in the first days of November the vessels took the positions assigned them in a line stretching from Cape San Lucas to the south-west, having dur- Fnnneirs Voyacje round the World, Lond., 1707, 79-93. The author was Dampier's mate. His reputation for accuracy is not good. The map makes* California an island, but is on too small a scale to furnish details. Harrix, Naviyalium. 198 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. ing the next five or six weeks occasional communica tion with the natives, described as a naked, miserable people, without the slightest trace of missionary influ ence. The galleon, however, seemed to have escaped the blockade, or else was much later than usual, and the hope of meeting her was at last abandoned. The 1 5th of December the Marquis was sent into Puerto Seguro, or San Bernabe, to refit; and on the 20th it was decided to refit the fleet and sail for the Ladrones, supplies being barely sufficient for the voyage. First a calm and then a gale prevented them from entering the port, most fortunately for them, since next day the Manila ship hove in sight, and on the 22d was taken after a sharp fight, for which the men were fortified in the absence of liquors by a kettle of chocolate and by prayers, which were interrupted by the foe's first shot. The prize was the Nuestra Senora de la Encarnacion del Desengano, commanded by Cap tain John Pichberty, carrying twenty large guns and the same number of pedreros, and manned by 193 men, of whom nine were killed and ten wounded. The Englishmen had two wounded, one of whom was Cap tain Rogers. From the captives it was learned that the Desen gano had sailed with a consort of still larger size; consequently it was determined on the 24th that the Duchess and Marquis should cruise for eight days in the hope that she had not yet passed. They were so fortunate as to see the intended prize and attacked her at midnight of the 25th, keeping up the battle at intervals until the next night, when the Duke came up, and next morning all three united their efforts against the monster foe, which was the Bigonia, 900 tons, carrying 60 brass guns, and as many pedreros, with a force of 450 men. She was so strongly built Manila ships were always superior to those built on the Mexican coast that the 500 small balls poured into her from the light guns of the buccaneers had no apparent effect on her hull, although some damage DEFEATED BY THE GALLEON. 199 was done to her rigging. Besides her complement of 450 men there were among the Bigonias passen gers 150 " European pirates, who having now got all their wealth on board were resolved to defend it to the last." The battle was continued until just before noon of the 27th, when the attacking squadron, finding them selves fast becoming disabled without making any impression on the enemy, 41 drew off for a council, at which it was decided to keep near the enemy until night, to lose her in the darkness, and then to give their whole attention to saving themselves and their first prize. Rogers had again been wounded, as had ten of his companions, and a still greater number on the Duchess, where eleven were also killed. It was Rogers' opinion that had all three vessels gone out to the attack together, as he had wished but had been overruled by the majority, the prize might have been taken by boarding, though after her 'netting-deck' and ' close-quarters' were made ready the attempt would have been madness. The buccaneers submitted with as good grace as possible to the decrees of a kind providence which had given them one rich prize. The fleet hurried back to Puerto Seguro, whence the prisoners from the Desengano with others taken as hostages in South America, were sent away in the bark, Captain Pichberty, a French chevalier, having given as a ransom bills of exchange on London for 6,000 dollars. The prize, was renamed the Batclielor, manned from the other vessels, and, after a long 1 paper war' of argument and protest, put under the nominal command of Captain Dover, but really under the control of captains Frye and Stretton, with Alex ander Selkirk as master. Cape San Lucas was last seen on January 12, 1710, and the fleet arrived at 41 Rogers, however, afterward met in Holland a sailor who had been on board the galleon and who said she was much disabled, and that the fight had been kept up only by the gunner who went into the powder-room and swore he would blow up the ship if she were surrendered, p. 331. 200 EXPLORATIONS TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. the Ladrones in March. The profits of the voyage are said to have been nearly 400, OOO. 42 Of the many French voyages made to the South Sea during this period there are but two which call for mention here; and indeed there is nothing beyond a mere mention of either extant. In the summer of 1709 Captain Frondac in the Saint Antoine crossed from China by the northern route. He went to 45, a higher latitude than usual, and he also touched on the California coast in 31, shortening his passage by the former change and refreshing his men by the lat ter, so that he suffered comparatively little from scurvy, the scourge of these waters. 43 In 1721, as Anson learned from what he deemed good authority, another French vessel made the passage in less than fifty days, but only five or six of the crew survived the plague. 44 It was in 1721 also that Captain George Shelvocke, after one of the typical privateering cruises on the central coasts, came northward in the Sacra Familia, a prize taken at Sonsonate. He had left England in 1719 in company with John Clipperton and the Suc cess, but had soon parted from his consort, meeting her again two years later on the Mexican coast, where the two cruised for a time together off Aca- pulco, hoping to intercept the galleon at her departure for the west; but the two commanders were not on good terms, and Shelvocke, when no longer needed, was treacherously deserted by Clipperton. It was chiefly with the hope of again meeting the Success that he came so far north on his return to India, fall ing in with Cape Corrientes early in August. Find ing neither consort nor a supply of water after a three days' search of the Tres Marias, the Sacra Familia & Rogers' Cruising Voyage round the World, 266-312, 356-7. This is the commander's own narrative. Capt. Cooke also seems to have written an ac count which wag. consulted by the editor of Voyages, Hist. Acct., ii. 1-90, and in Voyages, New CoL, iii. 122-335. The voyage is noticed in many collec tions and in most of the general works referred to in this chapter. & Burnerf* Chron. Hist., iv. 487; Venegas, Not. CaL, iii. 210-17. Voyage, by Walter, ed. of 1756, 326. GEORGE ANSON. 201 crossed over to California, and on August 13th anch ored in Puerto Seguro. Here they remained five davs, watering, and sailed on the 18th for the south- */' O ' west, to the great sorrow of their native friends, who had come in large numbers to the shore and even to the ship, and had been feasted with unlimited quanti ties of sweetmeats and hasty-pudding. The soil about the port when "turned fresh up to the sun appears as if intermingled with gold-dust." Thus did each suc cessive visitor contribute his mite to the fund of pop ular marvels respecting California. 45 - Captain George Anson, later Lord Anson, cruised in the Pacific from 1740 to 1742 with a fleet of pri vateers duly commissioned by the British government. He waited a long time off Acapulco for the westward bound ship, but becoming discouraged, he crossed the ocean and succeeded in capturing a rich galleon at the Philippines. He did not reach the coasts which form the territorial basis of these chapters. 46 Padre Cavo tells us that a Dutch ship was driven by stress of weather to the port of Matanchel in 1747, eighteen of the officers and men were invited on shore to dine by the alcalde mayor of Huetlan, who had been enter tained on shipboard, and then treacherously arrested and sent to Guadalajara. There, however, they were released as soon as the treachery was known, and hospitably entertained by the leading families until an opportunity' occurred to send them home. 47 During this century the Manila ships frequently touched on the peninsula coast, chiefly at the cape port, as I shall have occasion to mention in connection with the mis sionary annals of Baja California. 45 Shelvoclx'a Voyage .round the World, 337-99. The author gives quite a long account of California and its people, which Betagh, } 7 oyaf/e, 215-21 \vho accompanied Shelvocke, and writes chiefly to contradict and ridicule his commander pronounces absurdly false where not plagiarized from Woodes Kogers. The narrative more or less abridged from these two authorities is given in most of the collections published. Ansorix Voynrie, round the World, compiled by Richard Walter. 47 Cavo, Tres Sifjlos, ii. 159-GO. In some papers left by Ignacio Vallejo the date of the arrival is given as March 1747, and the leader's name is Wilhelm Maal. Vallejo, Hist. CaL, MS., i. 228-9. CHAPTEK IX. ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. 1600-1650. COAST PROVINCES CHAMETLA, COPALA, CULIACAN, SINALOA, OSTIMURI, SONORA, AND PlMERIA VlLLAS OF SAN SEBASTIAN AND SAN MlGUEL SAN JUAN DE MAZATLAN SAN FELIPE DE SINALOA COMMANDANTS on GOVERNORS THE JESUIT ANUAS CAPTAIN HURDAIDE ? S RULE THE GUAZAVES DEFEAT OF THE SUAQUIS CHIEFS HANGED EXPEDITION TO CHINIPA SINALOAS PUT TO DEATH TEHUECO CAMPAIGN OCORONI REVOLT CONVERSIONS FUERTE DE MONTESCLAROS SPANIARDS DE FEATED BY THE YAQUIS TREATY OF PEACE BISHOP'S VISIT TEPAHUE CAMPAIGN MAYO MISSIONS CONVERSION OF THE YAQUIS CHINIPA MISSIONS DISTRICT OF SAN IGNACIO DISTRIBUTION OF PADRES DEATH OF HURDAIDE PE*REA IN COMMAND MURDER OF PADRES PASCUAL AND MARTINEZ SONORA VALLEY DISTRICT OF SAN FRAN CISCO JAVIER DIVISION OF PROVINCE NUEVA ANDALUCIA JESUITS VERSUS FRANCISCANS PADRES AND STATISTICS RIB AS' TRIUMPHS OF THE FAITH CONDITION OF THE MISSIONS. THE geography of the regions corresponding to the modern Sinaloa and Sonora was in some respects not clearly defined during the seventeenth century. Yet while I shall name pueblos whose exact location cannot be fixed, the prevalent uncertainty respecting precise boundaries of provinces and districts, arising often from the fact that they had no precise boundaries, will interfere but little with the narrative of events, as most of the confusing subdivisions of territory had no real existence politically or ecclesiastically, being simply geographical names in common and often care less usage. Many of the difficulties would moreover be removed did such a thing exist as an accurate modern map. Glancing at the coast provinces in their order from south to north, we find the names Cha- (202) GEOGRAPHY. 203 and Rosario applied to the region lying between the rivers Canas and Mazatlan. 1 Chametla was the aboriginal name when Guzman arrived here in 1530; was long applied to the port, to the river, and to a real de minas; and it is still found on modern maps. A small province east of Chametla on the slope of the sierra was sometimes called Maloya. Next northward, between the rivers Mazatlan and Piastla, was Copala, comprising parts of the Quezala and Piastla of Guzman's lime. The name rarely appears in the annals of the country, and was represented in later times by a mining camp in the mountains. 2 Cu- liacan, the ancient Ciguatan, Land of Women, ex tended from Piastla to the Rio Culiacan. It included the site of San Miguel and the name is still retained for city and river. Next we find Sinaloa, often described as lying be tween Culiacan and Rio Mayo, but whose limit was more properly the Rio del Fuerte, or possibly the Alamos. The name was originally that of a tribe dwelling on the stream called Rio del Fuerte far from the sea; thence it was extended from tribe and river to province and capital; then from the capital over several provinces within the governor's jurisdiction as far north as the Rio Yaqui or even beyond; and it has finally remained in use not only for city and for a river south of that on which the Sinaloas lived, but for the state extending from the Canas to the Ala mos. 3 The provinces thus far named, or at least up to the Rio Mocorito, or fivora, were confined to a very narrow strip of coast, having on the east the mountains of Topia, the annals of which I have in- 1 The latter stream is oftener called Hio del Presidio. Rio de las Caiias was probably named for the reeds growing on its banks, but possibly in honor of Gov. Canas. Torquemada says the province of Mazatlan was called Aca- poneta or Chametla. See chapter xi. for map of southern provinces. 2 The Rio de Piastla was sometimes called Rio Elota, Rio de la Sal, and also far up in the mountains Rio Humase. 3 Sinaloa was also called La Calimaya and Pusolana, and sometimes, in connection with Culiacan and Ostimuri, Nuevo Reino de Aragoc. The Rio del Fuerte was also called Tamotchala, Santiago, Ahome, Suaqui, and even Sinaloa. The Rio de Sinaloa was originally the Petatlan. 204 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. eluded in those of Durango. North of Sinaloa was Ostimuri, which reached from the Alamos to the Rio Yaqui, and up its eastern bank to the latitude of Nacori or Sahuaripa.* A small pueblo bore, and per haps originated the name, which in modern times was still applied to the partido of Alamos. This province and those to the north were separated on the east from Nueva Vizcaya, or Tarahumara, or Chihuahua, by the Sierra Madre. All the country north of the Yaqui was sometimes called Sonora 5 even at this time, a name which, aug mented by Ostimuri on the south and deprived of Arizona on the north, it still retains. Yet it was more common among the Jesuits to restrict the name to the valley where it originated; and the terms Pimeria Baja and Pimeria Alta, 6 divided by a rather vague line just below the rivers Altar and San Igna- cio, w r ere the terms perhaps in most common use. The provincial divisions thus indicated, except Sina loa and Sonora in their broadest application, will occur but rarely in the annals, and may for the most part be disregarded. Throughout nearly the whole century Sinaloa is the best general name for the whole territory; 7 that is, there is no other single name that can be properly applied to the whole terri- 4 Some writers give the Rio Mayo as the line between Sinaloa and Osti muri; but Ostimuri evidently included Alamos. According to Orozco the province extended across in the latitude of Nacori to the Rio de Oposura, or west branch of the Yaqui. The Rio Mayo was called by Guzman in 1533 San Miguel; and the Yaqui, San Francisco; but the latter was also termed by the Jesuits Espiritu Santo. Moto-Padilla in 1742 speaks of 'Ostimuri or Alamos. ' 5 Of the origin of this name more hereafter. It was also called for a few years only Nueva Andalucia. 6 According to AiiostoVicos Afanes and Arricivita, Pimeria Baja extended from mouth of the Yaqui to Tecora mission; and Pimeria Alta from Caborca east to Terrenate, and San Ignacio north to Rio Gila. New Mexico is often named as the northern bound. 7 On the geography of the coast see Villa Seilor, Theatro, ii. 338, 385-93; Mota-Padilla, Cong. N. GaL, 520-2; Calk, Mem. Noticias, 97; fiibcui, Hist. Triumphos, 1, 2; Doc. Hist. Hex., serie iii. pt. iv. 494, 625, 703; Arricivita, Cron., 396; Apostolkos Afanes, 230-1; Alegre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, 92-3; Orozco y Bcrra, G'eofj., 328-9, 337-8; Mange, Hist. Pirn., 392-3; Torqncmada, Monarq. Lid., i. 697; America, Descrip., 120; Sinaloa, Mem. Hist., MS., 523. COAST PROVINCES. 205 tory, which was under one government; yet in view of later divisions, and of the fact that even then Sinaloa was commonly regarded as extending only to the Yaqui, I have deemed it best to use the double term Sinaloa and Sonora in the heading of this chap ter. It is to be remembered, however, that the coast provinces were still in an important sense a part of Nueva Vizcaya, being in this century as from the first subject to the governor of that country residing at Durango. Yet, as the original idea had been to restrict Vizcaya to the region east of the Sierra Madre, as the sierra still formed a natural bound and barrier rendering communication difficult, and espe cially as the governor's authority on the coast was delegated to a military comandante, often spoken of as governor of Sinaloa, it became a common usage to apply the name Nueva Vizcaya to the eastern country corresponding to the modern Durango and Chihuahua; and this usage I find it most convenient both for writer and reader to follow in the present record. The southern provinces from Chametlato Culiacan, inclusive, a narrow strip of territory along the coast not including the mountainous Topia district which I have found it most convenient to include in Durango for historical purposes, though a large part of it was west of the sierra summit came as near having no recorded history as is possible in a country where some civilized men lived and where each year may be supposed to have had its complement of days. There \vere no missions proper here; but missionaries from the adjoining districts on the south and east and north made occasional visits, as did the bishop, for the spir itual edification of the Spanish inhabitants and na tives, all of whom were nominally Christians since the early years of Franciscan efforts. The villa of San Sebastian de Chametla seems to 206 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. have maintained its existence under an alcalde mayor and curate, with a presidial guard for defensive pur poses. Of mining operations absolutely nothing is known, though there are indications that the mines were not altogether abandoned. In 1603 the explorer Vizcaino touching at Mazatlan found a mule-train on the road between Culiacan and Chametla, and obtained aid from Captain Martin Ruiz de Aguirre, described as alcalde mayor of the province. 8 At an unknown date between this time and 1633 a town of San Juan de Mazatlan was founded. Juan de Arriaran was alcalde mayor of the town and military commandant of the Rio Piastla at the time of Ortega's visit in the year mentioned. 9 The name Mazatlan was originally that of a native town on the river; and navigators had several times touched at the port, but I find no record of any Spanish settlement before Ortega's visit; 10 and the later visits of gulf navigators recorded in earlier chapters have left no information about the place for a century and more. Calle tells us that in 1646 there were in this southern region four alcaldes may ores all appointed by the governor of Nueva Viz- caya; those of Piastla and Mazatlan, of Chametla and Salinas, of the Maloya mines, and of San Sebas tian, where was a presidio and captain. 11 At the north still existed the ancient villa of San Miguel de Culiacan. Its alcalde mayor, unlike those of other settlements, was appointed by the audiencia of Guadalajara, at a salary of six hundred and ninety- six pesos. There was also a curate in charge of the parochial district. We have no names of officials, no 8 See p. 159 of this volume. 9 Orteya, Description. MS. Pedro de Pdbera is named as curate ; and Alf. Juan Pardo, Martin Fernandez, and Francisco Martin were vecinos. 10 According to Mazatlan, JDatos Eslad., in Soc. Mex. Geog., 2da e"p., iv. 65, there are no records extant on the earliest history of Mazatlan. 11 Calle, Mem. Not., 97-101. This author also names 16 corregimientos yielding from 20 to 200 pesos of tribute in the province of Culiacan y Natoato. They are Istlaxe y Guzmanilla, Tecurimeto, Navito y Naboato, Nabolato, Chilobito, Cuspita y Tolobato, Cobota y Cocala, Culaca y Ognane, Vizcaino y Tecolinuocimala, Acala y San Este"van, Alicama Abanito y Dato, Apacha y Baila, Soloneto, Lauroto, Loto, Auilameto la Galga, Mobolo y el Nueyo y Viejo Tepuche. All this is unintelligible to me. GOVERNORS. 207 record of local happenings, and no statistics of popu lation. There were, perhaps, from thirty to fifty Spanish families, besides a few Aztecs and Tlascal- tecs. Nearly every year the Jesuits came down from the north for a mission tour among the natives, by whom they were always well received. At San Felipe y Santiago de Sinaloa on the Rio Petatlan was stationed a garrison of from thirty to forty men, besides, a little later, a fort on the Rio Fuerte farther north. The captain of the garrison was appointed by the viceroy; but 'from the gov ernor of Nueva Vizcaya he received the appointment of alcalde mayor, and, as already stated, was often called governor of Sinaloa. From 1600 to 1G26 the position was held by Captain Diego Martinez de Hurdaide; then by Pedro de Perea to 1641, ex cept in 1636, when Francisco Bustamante held the place; by Luis Cestin de Canas to 1644; and by Juan Peralta y Mendoza perhaps for the rest of the half century, he being succeeded by Porter y Casanate. 12 San Felipe had a population of some eighty families de razon in the middle of the century, their spiritual necessities being attended to by the Jesuits, whose central establishment, or college, was here, and who had also a school for native boys. By the missiona ries the citizens are highly praised for their good char acter and marked devotion to religion; but of events and men from a secular point of view, we know prac tically nothing. Indeed, were it not for the Jesuit missionary annals, the record for the north would be almost as meagre as that of the southern provinces. Fortunately the Jesuit annals, especially in the early years, are quite complete. In addition to the standard chronicles of Ribas and Alegre, with occa sional aid from other sources, I have before me the regular anuas, or annual records of the provincial, made up from the letters of the missionaries them- 12 Some slight references for dates of succession, etc., will be given later. 208 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONOKA. SlNALOA AND SoNOEA IN THE SEVENTEETH CENTURY. JESUIT ANNAIA 209 selves. These are very bulky and minute, but as in the case of similar records for an earlier period already noticed, only a small portion can be profitably util ized for historical purposes. The primary object of the missionaries was to convert gentiles f to the faith; the struggle between divine and diabolic influences in the case of some poor sick Indian girl must be re corded in full. Other matters affecting events and institutions and men were of secondary importance, to be mentioned incidentally, if at all, and there were as yet no controversies with secular" authorities or settlers to claim space in their correspondence. 13 In 1600 five Jesuit missionaries, Perez, Velasco, Yillafane, Orobato, and Mendez, had founded eight missions with substantial churches, and were at work in some thirteen towns on and near the rivers Sina- loa and Mocorito, having also visited the tribes on the Rio Tamotchala and beyond, but without found ing as yet any mission there. Certain disturbances in 1599 had caused Captain Alonso Diaz to send Hurdaide his lieutenant to Mexico with a request for reinforcements and for the comandante's relief from office. At the end of the year Hurdaide came back as comaridante with ten soldiers, thus increasing the presidial force to thirty-six. He proved a model captain in every respect, no less noted for the piety and justice which endeared him to Jesuit and convert than for the activity and valor which made him a terror to unruly savages, to keep whom in subjection by the aid of his small force, was a duty that left him but little rest during his rule of nearly thirty years. 14 The new captain's first task was to quiet the Gua- zaves, who had burned their church and fled to the "The anuas are contained in Sinaloa, Mem. Hist., MS., 340-803. They are for the years 1601-2, 1604, 1610-17, 1619-26, 1628-9. u He conquered, according to Ribas, Hist. Triumphos, 85-6, over 20 nations and not one of his soldiers ever fell into the hands of the foe; but he spent all his private fortune in the work, dying in debt. He had a peculiar way of sending his orders, four seals of wax on a paper without writing forming the token borne by his messenger, who wore it in a reed stuck in the hair. It was un derstood that any interference with a messenger bearing this credential would HIST. N. MEX. STATES, VOL. I. U 210 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. woods. The offenders were hanged, but the chief, Don Pablo, ordered his people back to Christian life, and was pardoned. Both chief and subjects became noted later for their faith, and the former once had his sight miraculously restored. New and fine churches of adobe -replaced the burnt structures, but were de stroyed by floods a few years later. The Guazaves quieted, the valiant captain deemed the time a fitting one to humble the hostile Suaquis, who had exhibited a threatening indifference to the salvation of their souls by Spanish methods. He did it in an original way. Wild cattle had, it seems, greatly multiplied in the north since the abandonment of Carapoa, and Hurdaide ordered a grand hunt for meat. Reaching the Suaqui country he produced shackles and ropes, explaining to his astonished company of twenty-four that each man was required to seize and bind two of the foe. The natives coming to make inquiries were informed of the projected hunt and promised a share of the meat; then the common people were sent to gather wood for a grand barbecue, while the haughty chiefs remained. At the word 'Santiago!' forty-three were seized by the hair and secured with some diffi culty, except two who escaped. The plebeians soon came up with bows and arrows, but without leaders could do nothing, and were finally persuaded through a Christian woman, Luisa, that they would be much better off without chiefs, and that no harm would be done to them if they kept quiet. The masses retired to their towns ; but the wives of the captives remained and bravely attempted a rescue, attacking the Span iards with stones. Fathers Menclez and Velasco came up to prepare the victims for death; all but two be came Christians; and all, save two killed in the skir mish with the women, were hanged on two trees. Dona Luisa was sent to the towns with the admonition to be promptly and terribly avenged, and before long the seals were respected by even the most distant and hostile tribes. A bloody knife was also sent occasionally as a threat of punishment. See also Id., 81-2, 93, 97, 100; Alegre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, i. 387-8; Mange, Hist. Pimeria, 398. CHINIPAS AND TEHUECOS. 211 the people to be good Indians, and on no account to take down the suspended bodies. 15 The viceroy had ordered an exploration of the Chi- nipa country in search of certain rich mines reported to exist there, and Hurdaide seems to have started immediately after his exploit among the Suaquis in the spring of 1601. Father Mendez accompanied him in search of spiritual treasure, and Sinaloa guides were taken who proved to be treacherous. The Spaniards were attacked April 10th in a difficult pass and a part of the company was besieged for a' day or two in a mountain refuge ; but no lives were lost, and the pros pectors were able to reach a Chinipa rancheria called Curepo, where silver ore was indeed found, but not so rich as had been expected. A native woman was taken back for later use as a messenger or interpreter, and on the return march the treacherous Sinaloas were punished by having their fields ravaged and four teen of their number put to death. 16 The Ahomes now complained that the Tehuecos had come down the river to usurp their lands and to maltreat their women. Hurdaide of course started at once, desiring to encourage the friendly spirit of the Ahomes; but on the way was opposed by the united Suaquis and Sinaloas, who had apparently forgotten their late chastisement. Taxicora, chief of the Sinaloas, was seized at the first approach by the captain's own hand, and his men retreated, fearing to kill their leader. Again the Spaniards were attacked in a forest where the horsemen could not operate. Taxicora's orders had no effect to make his men desist, but when Hurdaide rushed out single-handed, cap- , 87-92. Mange, Hist. Pimeria, 398-9, says that 24 leaders of the Suaques and inciters of revolt were hanged. 3 Velasn, Carta al Padre Provincial, 1601, MS., in Sinaloa, Mem. Hist., t3-50. There was a pestilence this year which killed many, chiefly old people, at Ocoroni and Nio. There were many marvellous cures. Of 128 adults baptized 58 died. The natives at first captured a few pack-mules, the sacred utensils carried by the padre, and a copper kettle which they used as a drum in the premature celebration of victory. The Chinipas lived within the limits of the modern Chihuahua. Ribas, 95-9; Alegre, i. 388-9. 212 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. tured one of the savages, and hanged him to a tree, the rest retired. Advancing to the Matava Valley, he drove the Tehuecos to the woods and captured two hundred women and children, who were given up on the promise of the tribe to return to their home and let the Ahomes alone. The latter people were not only grateful but clamorous for missionaries. Not yet done with the Suaquis the comandante stopped on his return at their town of Mochicavi. The war riors fled, but sent by Luisa their apologies that the Sinaloas alone had been to blame. Their lives and town were spared, but they had to make certain pres ents to the native allies, and, as a still more humili ating penance, to lose their war-locks, the mark of honor most prized by the braves. Taxicora was con demned to the gibbet at San Felipe, and died a good Christian. 1 ' There were now in the field four priests, Father Orobato having disappeared from the list, and one lay brother Francisco Castro. Baptisms in 1602 were 850, two thirds of which were in the new Gua- zave district. The boys' school at San Felipe had now thirty native pupils. Padres and mission paraphernalia were needed in order to take spiritual advantage of recent military successes, and Hurdaide accordingly made a trip to Mexico, apparently in 1603-4, with a party of native chiefs. His requests were granted by Viceroy Montes- claros. His Indians were feted and given fine clothing and swords, and he brought back two new missionaries, Cristobal de Villalta and Andres Perez de Kibas, the latter subsequently famous as the chronicler of his order in Nueva Vizcaya. At Zacatecas, on the re turn, four of the native traders ran away and hastened 17 See Native Races, L, this series. In the Annas of 1602, 378-408, Taxi cora is said to have had a compact with Satan, and to have been the inciter of the attack of 1601. In a trip of the captain and Bro. Castro to the Suaqui country for corn, the people are said to have been found friendly. Another apostate native was put to death for inciting a revolt on the Evora River. Two tours to Culiacan Valley this year, and Padre Santaren from Topia also spent some time there. Alegre, i. 410-11, writes the names in Hurdaide's entrada Matahoa Valley and Mochicauis pueblo; see also Ribas, 100-5. HURDAIDE'S CAMPAIGNS. 213 home, after committing three murders on the Topia frontier, to preach revolt among the Tehuecos, some of whom fled to join the Tepahues, fearing punish ment for the crimes of their chiefs. At the same time the Christians of Ocoroni and Bacoburito re volted, not without provocation it is said, and burned their churches. It was also during Hurdaide's ab sence that the country was visited by floods which destroyed crops, undermined adobe churches, did some damage even in the villa, and drove neophytes and in some cases even padres to the momitains. Father Mendez was kept up in a tree for a day and night, while Father Velasco was imprisoned for four days in his sacristy. Hurdaide heard the bad news at Topia on a day when he had taken a purge, but he felt that providence was on his side and he could not be de terred from hastening homeward. After a sharp fight he defeated the Bacoburitos, put the leading rebels to death, and forced the rest to rebuild their church. The Tehuecos were easily quieted and induced to pursue the four murderers, who were executed on the very spot where their crime had been committed. The Ocoronis gave more trouble; some young men at school under Padre Mendez refused to join the revolt; but the rest, four hundred strong, tied from their pueblo and were scattered among wild tribes, some forty families of the number taking refuge in the far north among the Yaquis. By 1604 the Jesuits are said to have baptized 40,000 natives, while Velasco had prepared a grammar and vocabulary of one of the leading languages. 18 The nations of the Rio Tamotchala wanted padres, and as their promises were all that could be desired, the superior, Padre Perez, announced the following distribution: Ribas was to take charge of the Ahonies "According to the Anna of 1004, 408-14, however, the total number of baptisms is given as 10,000. Baptisms for 1604 were 1,000. Escudero, Not. Son., 43, and Calle tells us that Queen Margarita sent golden tabernacles for the new churches. See Ribas, 97-9, 105-9, 125-6; Alegre, i. 424-6; Mem. Not., 98. 214 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. and Suaquis, Mendez of the Tehuecos and allied bands, and Villalta of the Sinaloas, all the tribes being thus provided for in the order of their respective homes from the coast up the river. 19 Ribas went to his sta tion at once and seems to have met no obstacles from the first. The Ahomes had always been peaceful and friendly, and within a year every man, woman, and child, two thousand or more, had been baptized, and all were living in two towns, where handsome adobe churches had taken the place of temporary jacales and enramadas. The mountain Batucaris and the fish- eating Bacoregues of the coast were induced to come and join the Ahomes; while the wild Comoporis, speak ing the Ahome dialect, were converted within two years, although not willing to quit their old home. Even the Suaquis kept their promises, built fine churches in their three towns, and experienced a rad ical change of character, largely through the influence of Dona Luisa. Mendez went among the Tehuecos probably in 1606 and met with equal success, although there had been some fear about this people on ac count of their polygamous customs. The padre took with him no military escort and no attempt was made to interfere with the civil powers of the native chief tains. The Bacabachis were among his converts. At the same time Villalta went up the river among the Sinaloas, baptized four hundred children the first day, and within a year reduced the whole tribe to Christi anity and to village life in three towns. A deadly epidemic caused a temporary relapse into superstitious rites; but the reaction when these rites proved un availing helped the new faith and the implements of sorcery were burned. Suicide by poisoning is men tioned as one of the worst habits of the Sinaloas, but it was gradually abandoned with the old beliefs. 20 19 The river at this period was called most commonly Rio Ahome, Suaqui, Tehueco, and Sinaloa, according to the tribe living in the territory referred to. v!0 Alegre, i. 426-8, 460, says the Ahomes and Suaquis numbered over 1,000 vecinos each, the Tehuecos 5,500 warriors, and the Sinaloas over 1,000 fami lies. See also Dice. Univ., x. 506-8. The Annas are missing for 1605-9. PADRES AND A FORT. 215 In 1607 some six thousand souls of the hostile rancherias of Chicoratos, Cahuimetos, and Ogueras, living in the mountains south-eastward from San Felipe, were induced by Father Velasco to embrace Christianity after Hurdaide had visited their country and bought from their neighbors land for their towns and milpas. Bibas also speaks of certain Toroacas who revolted and took refuge on an island to which the captain crossed on rafts, bringing back the fugi tives, hanging seven leaders, and scattering the rest among the Guazave towns, where they became the best of Christians. 21 In these years, 1607-9, several new missionaries were sent to Sinaloa, including per haps Pedro Velasco, Laurencio Adauie, Alberto Cleri- cis, Juan Calvo, and Luis de Bonifacio; at least these names appear within a few years without other record of their arrival. Several of them arrived by way of Topia at the end of 1609. Padre Velasco was a rela tive of the viceroy of that name, and in three years he baptized 1,900 converts. 22 Another Jesuit of this period, whose name I do not find in the annual records, was Vicente de Aguila. 23 In 1610 the Fuerte de Montesclaros named for the viceroy who had ordered its construction but had ceased to rule in 1607 was built on the south bank of the river called from this fort Rio del Fuerte. It was built of adobes with a tower at each corner, and located on a hillock surrounded on three sides by a 21 Alegre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, ii. 9-10, perhaps alludes to the same affair when he speaks of coast Indians under P. Alberto Clericis, not before named, who retired to a mountain nearly surrounded with water, and were coaxed back by the padre. This was in 1608, and 3,238 persons were baptized that year. Hibas, 125. -Anna, 1610, 414-37. There are some letters from Velasco, who seems to have come in 1607; also a letter from another of the new-comers not named. According to a biographical sketch in Dice. Univ., i. 654, Padre Bonifacio was a native of Jaen, born in 1578, who became a Jesuit in 1598. came to America in 1602, and served 20 years in Sinaloa. He afterward became provincial, and died at the college of Valladolid in 1644. '-' Who, as will be seen later, died at Ahome in 1641, after 35 years of ser vice in Sinaloa. He wrote several artes, vocabularies, sermones, doctrinas, etc., in native dialects. 216 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONOKA. broad grassy plain, which furnished food for the soldiers' horses, and prevented secret attacks by the natives. Here were stationed ordinarily a corporal and a few soldiers. The site was in the Tehueco country and almost identical with that of the ancient San Juan Bautista de Carapoa. 24 It was also in 1610 that peace was made with the Yaquis after several serious reverses. Some years before the Ocoronis had revolted, and forty families under the apostate chief Lautaro seem to have taken refuge among the Yaquis. Lautaro, and Babilomo a Suaqui cacique, attempted without success to arouse the Mayos, who were hostile to the Yaquis, and for that reason, perhaps, well disposed toward the Span iards. Hurdaide pursued the Ocoronis in 1609 up to the country of the Yaquis, who made no attack, but strong in spirit and number, there being thirty thou sand in eighty rancherfas, they disregarded alike threats of punishment and offers of pardon, absolutely refusing to give up Lautaro and his party. Unpre pared for war the captain returned to Sinaloa. It seems, however, that there was a party in favor of peace, for the chief Anabailatei soon came to San Felipe 25 with an offer to make peace and give up the fugitives if Christian Indians were sent to receive them. A party of Tehuecos was therefore sent with two converted Yaqui women; but the latter were seized and the former plundered, and with few excep tions killed, Anabailatei having been treacherous, or perhaps having been overpowered by Lautaro in the savage councils. Again Hurdaide hastened northward with forty soldiers and two thousand allies, including some gentile Mayos. The army reached the river, encamped, and had even received some overtures for peace, when the 24 Some description in Anna, 1610, MS., 428; Ribas, 178-9; Alegre, ii. 30; Beaumont, Cr6n. Mich., v. 534; Dice. Univ., ix. 88G-7. 25 Or to Hurdaide's camp on theYaqui according to Alegre, who represents these events as having occurred before his return southward, as is perhaps more likely. WAR WITH THE YAQUIS. 217 camp was assailed at daybreak by eight thousand warriors. The battle raged nearly all day and the loss of life was great among the Indians on both sides. Hurdaide took a few prisoners, but many of his sol diers were badly wounded, and he was forced to order a retreat. 26 The Yaquis were naturally exultant and continued their preparations and drill under the in struction of Lautaro, who claimed ability to teach the most effective tactics against horses and muskets. The Spaniards at Sinaloa and in the missions were correspondingly despondent; but Hurdaide fitted out a third expedition, obtained aid from San Miguel de Culiacan, and marched northward at the head of fifty mounted Spaniards and four thousand allies, the largest army that had trod the soil since the days of Guzman and Coronado. Again was the brave co- mandante attacked at dawn, and again after a battle of several hours was he forced to retreat, losing most of his supplies and this time hotly pursued by the Yaqui warriors. Fighting as they retreated the Spaniards were hard pressed in a difficult pass, where the savages were protected by trees and horsemen could not op erate advantageously. With a view to gain time and to prevent a threatened panic among the allies, Hur daide with the vanguard charged back upon the foe, who yielded a little at first, but then rallied with such effect that the allies broke and ran away, while the rear-guard, panic-stricken, fled also southward to re port the death of all their companions. The captain had five arrow wounds, and most of his twenty-two men were wounded, as were most of his horses; but after prodigies of desperate valor they reached a high bare hill, which they held till night fall in spite of attempts of the savages to burn or smoke them out by firing the grass and shrubbery. The situation was critical; but at night many of the 2G The Anna of 1609 with a detailed account of the earlier transactions is missing; but in that of 1G10, p. 429-34, is given a re"sume\ In this account, however, this second expedition and defeat are not mentioned. 218 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONOKA. foe withdrew to defend their rights in the distribution of the spoils, when the Spaniards by an ingenious ruse and much good luck were able to escape. They let loose a band of wounded horses, which as was expected stampeded for the river; and while the Indians gave their whole attention to the capture of these animals and their supposed riders, the soldiers gained a start which enabled them to reach the Mayo country and finally the San Felipe. The Spaniards who had abandoned their leader in the Yaqui country were pardoned at the intercession of the padres and by the advice of the comandante, though the governor was disposed to deal severely with them. 27 This disastrous defeat seems, in some manner not quite clear, to have been as effectual in promoting the objects of the Spaniards as a victory could have been. Ribas tells us that Hurdaide was much troubled at his failure, knowing that his campaign was not approved by the governor, and that he could not renew his efforts without aid from the viceroy; but he caused reports to be circulated of three grand expedi tions being organized, expeditions which had no existence save in the boasting, but which frightened the Yaquis into suing for peace. . Alegre on the other hand claims that the Yaquis were impelled to submit by their admiration of Spanish valor in the last campaign; 23 while Mange's theory is that God humbled gentile obstinacy in this instance by a miracle, causing the report of fire-arms, whizzing of balls, and all the noise of conflict to haunt the ears of the savages until frightened and worn out they were forced to yield. However this may be they soon opened negotiations for peace, first through 27 'God forgive the men who forsook me and put the whole province in such jeopardy,' wrote Hurdaide in his letter to the padre from the Mayo. Some of the soldiers died from the effects of their wounds. Alegre says that some Indians remained with the captain, of whom about 100 escaped. 28 This is also the view taken in the Jesuit A nua, except that Hurdaide's defeat is not admitted. After all his allies and half his soldiers had deserted him, he won a glorious and miraculous victory. Why under these circum stances he retreated is not explained. TREATY WITH THE YAQUIS. 219 female ambassadors and the Mayos, and later through a deputation of chieftains. They agreed to deliver the fugitives who had in a measure caused the late troubles, to return all plunder, and to remain at peace with the Mayos and all other tribes who were friendly to the Spaniards. This treaty was ratified with great festivities on April 25, 1G10, and very soon the Yaquis were asking for padres, sending also fourteen children for instruction. Lautaro and Babilomo were condemned to death. . The submission of the Yaquis led to the establishment of friendly" relations with many other tribes, and eighty thousand souls were this year brought to the very doors of salvation. 29 Bishop Juan del Valle of Guadalajara in a tour through his diocese visited Sinaloa in 1610, accom panied by Father Juan Gallegos. On his arrival he was entertained, and perhaps somewhat terrified as well, by hordes of natives who went through the manoeuvres of a sham attack on the episcopal party. The bishop was at San Felipe for five days at Christ mas, and in that time confirmed over eight thousand persons, Spanish and natives. He subsequently ex pressed himself as delighted with the condition of affairs in this country, and with the Jesuit manage ment. 30 On account of the new fort, the Yaqui treaty, and the bishop's visit, the missionaries regarded their pros pects as in every way encouraging; baptisms were over seventeen hundred for the year ; but the destruc tion of certain idols by Padre Mendez aroused the native sorcerers and caused a revolt among tlxe Tehue- 29 On the Yaqui wars see R'tbas, 283-301; Alegre, ii. 31-8; Mange, Hist. Pimeria, 398-9; Stone's Sonora, 15. Urreain5oc. Mex. Geoff., ii. 42-4, gives a curious and for the most part fictitious narrative of Hurdaide's campaigns in 1025-30, full of particulars, and involving the massacre of a padre and a body of troops. There are a few slight indications that the story is based on the Yaqui wars of earlier times. Ribas implies erroneously that the conquest was as late as 1615 and that Iturbe's arrival had an influence in subduing the Indians. Anua, 1611, MS., 449 et seq.; Alegre, ii. 53; Ribas, 175-6; Calle, 98. 220 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. cos in 1611. Enough of the neophytes, however, remained faithful to save the life of the padre until a guard of four men was sent up from Sinaloa. The padre, old and feeble, was transferred to Ocoroni, re tiring next ^year to Mexico. Laurencio Adarne took his place; but the troubles could not be checked, the church was burned, other towns, as Nacori and Siviri- joua, joined the revolt, the Tehuecos took refuge with the Tepahues of the sierra, and Father Adame retired to San Felipe in 1612. What the garrison of Fort Montesclaros was doing all this time does not appear. Captain Hurdaide after vain efforts to bring about a friendly settlement marched to the Tepahue country with his forty soldiers and two thousand allies. To such of the latter as were not yet Christians Hur daide had to grant the privilege of beheading or scalping the foe; yet in the interests of humanity he offered a horse for each living captive. 31 This was in 1613, and Padre Hibas went with the army. The foe counted on having to resist only a short campaign, and were much disconcerted by a message from Hurdaide that he was coming prepared to spend a year in their country if necessary. Accord ingly the Spaniards on entering Tepahue territory deliberately encamped to wait for the natives to devour their accumulated supplies. This course, with Hur- daide's discovery and disregard of a plotted ambush, induced the Conicaris, one of the hostile bands, to sue for peace. Soon after the captain moved forward, and met the fugitive Tehuecos returning en masse to beg for pardon. He was very severe at first, threatening flogging for the women and more bloody retribution for the men; but finally Father Bibas interceded as had been agreed upon beforehand, and the rebels, burning their weapons and giving up certain leaders, were pardoned and sent home. The Spaniards en- 81 The statement that some encomenderos were required to join the expe dition or to arm for the protection of the villa is the only indication that the encomienda system was in vogue here at this date. TEHUECO REVOLT. 221 camped again near the Tepahue strongholds, were reduced for a week to the terrible hardship of eating beef though it was Lent, and allowed the allies to ravage the enemy's cornfields. All overtures for peace were rejected with scorn. A series of well contested battles ensued, in which the allies took many Tepahue heads for their bloody orgies, and the Spaniards were uniformly victorious, despite unusual obstacles in the shape of sharp and poisoned stakes concealed in the grass- over which they had to march. The country was devastated and seven chiefs, some of them apostate Christians, were taken and executed. The foe did not formally surrender, and Hurdaide retired when his provisions were nearly exhausted; but the surrender, together with the usual petition for missionaries, the best means of conciliation as the wily savages well knew, arrived at San Felipe but little later than the army. The Tehuecos, eight thousand in number, were reduced from three villages to two, and soon became exemplary Christians. A padre was sent to the Tepahues, who came down and settled in a town on the Rio Mayo, where they built a fine church and remained quiet for more than thirty years. 32 The conversion of one tribe was tediously like that of another in these years. To feel a deep interest in such missionary annals one needs, whether he be historian or reader, all the padres' faith in the incalculable benefit conferred by conversion on each savage. It was about 1612 that Father Villalta, from his station among the Sinaloas, added the Huites and Zoes to the list of con vert tribes, without incident requiring notice. There were also at this period disorders, burning of churches, abandonment of towns, and killing of several natives, 32 Amias, 1611-13, 437-80, where the Tehueco expedition is described in a letter of Padre Andre's Perez. Padre Calvo also writes of another slight revolt jit San Iguacio. Four new churches were completed in 1612. Alegre, ii. 46-7, 55, 60-2, gives a letter from Ribas describing the campaign somewhat less fully than in his Hist. Triumphs, 180-91. See, also, Rivera, Gob. de Mex., i. 103; Dice. Univ., x. 530. 222 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONOBA. vaguely recorded as having occurred among the Chi- coratos and Cahuimetos south of the Rio Sinaloa, who were in charge of Father Calvo and Juan Bautista Velasco. The latter, a pioneer in this field, where he had served for over twenty years, died in 1613. 83 The Tepehuanes are said to have had some influence in fomenting these disorders. In 1613 also a mission was founded among the Mayos, who, thirty thousand in number according to Ribas' estimate, lived on the river of the same name, their country being bounded on the north by that of their foes, the Yaquis. They had always been friendly to the Spaniards; had done good service as allies against hostile tribes ; and had of late been clamoring for padres. The matter was referred to Viceroy Gua- dalcazar, and the venerable Padre Mendez,.who had retired to Mexico but was tired of inaction, was sent again into the field. With a guard of thirty men under Hurdaide, he entered the Mayo territory where his success was immediate, extraordinary, and perma nent. Seven large towns with a population of twenty thousand, or nine thousand as Alegre states, were founded within a space of eighteen leagues, while three thousand one hundred children, to say nothing of the sick and aged, were baptized within fifteen days. A famine raging at the time contributed to the padre's success, and his influence was felt beyond Mayo limits among the Nevomes and Nuns. Thus 1613 may be. regarded as the date when missionary work began in the modern Sonora. 34 33 Juan Bautista Velasco was a native of New Spain, and was 29 years of age when he came to Sinaloa. Though always delicate he was a zealous worker. He excelled all the other Jesuits in his knowledge of the native languages, and prepared several grammars and vocabularies for the benefit of his associates. It was his pride that he had never sinned carnally and never told a lie. His illness was a slow fever lasting three months, and he died on July 29, 1613. His body was carried to the villa eight leagues from his mis sion, escorted by all his neophytes, and received with unusual honors by the citizens and soldiers under Captain Hurdaide. Father Luis Bonifacio gives a sketch of Velasco's life and a eulogy of his character in a letter to the provin cial. Anna, 1613, 474-80. Zi Anua, 1613-J4, MS., 480-522. Letters of Padre Mendez and Capt. Hur daide about the Mayo mission. Nine thousand registered, 3,000 baptized, MISSION PROGRESS. 223 It would seem to have been in 1615 that mission aries first visited the Nevomes and Nuris, and a large party of the former came down from their northern home to join their countrymen who had been settled at Bainoa since the time of Cabeza de Vaca's arrival. 35 In the same year also the pearl-seeking craft of Iturbe or Cardona arrived on the coast, the presence of their crews having a salutary effect on the natives. 36 The revolt of the Tepehuanes in Durango caused much uneasiness in Sinaloa from 1616 to 1618, the great fear being that the rebels would effect an alliance with the Yaquis ; but nothing of the kind occurred, and the only open disturbance was experienced in the south on the Topia frontier, where Padre Calvo's pueblos of Chicorato, Cahuimeto, and Yecorato were repeatedly threatened. The neophytes, however, resisted temp tation and even went so far as to cut off the heads of certain Tepehuane emissaries. The unconverted but friendly Tubaris also refused all aid to the apostates, and soon embraced the new faith. 37 According; to the o annual record of 1616 there were now eleven priests and three brothers in the Sinaloa field, working in nine partidos. The fourteen have been named in the text and notes, besides Father Aguila, a doubtful seven churches. See also Ribas, 113, 200, 237-53; Alegre, ii. 55, 62-3, 69- 72, 78-9. In the Anua of 1614, 481, the missionary force is stated to be 3 priests and 4 brothers, working in 8 partidos; but this is unintelligible as there must have been at least 12 men instead of 7. 83 Letter of Padre Diego de Guzman in Anna. 1615, MS., 522-39. One hundred and sixty-four Nevomes came down at this time. Sec also Alegre, ii. 79; Ribas, 119-21, 162, 241, 299, 369-70. The Nevomes are said to have been of Tepehuane race. Alegre, ii. 72-3, speaks of the reduction at this time of the Yamoriba natives. 36 See p. 165 of this volume. Cardona says he touched at Rio Mayo where Mendez was serving, and where his companion padre had been lately killed and eaten by the natives (as was not true); but others, including Ribas, say that Iturbe's vessel was relieved by Ribas at Ahome. 37 Anua, 1616, MS., 539-79. It is said, however, that Hurdaide made a tour to the Cahuimeto sierra, recovering 1,500 fugitives. P. Diego de la Cruz in a letter describes a visit to the Tepahues. A chapel was completed this year on the spot where Padre Tapia was killed. Baptisms of the year were 1,800 children and 2,332 adults. Hernandez, Comp. Geog. Son., 14-15, says the Tepehuane revolt extended to Sinaloa, but that after two years some com panies of marines were sent there and restored order. See also, Ribax, 115/- 18, 303; Dice. Univ., x. 539-43; Alegre, ii. 82-92. 224 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. name. Which was the third lay brother with Castro and Martin Ugarte is not apparent. Not only did the Yaquis abstain from Tepehuane alliance, but in 1617 they received missionaries in their own territory. Ribas had gone down to Mexico on this business the year before, and now he came back with Padre Tomas Basilio. In May he started with Father Perez from the Mayo towns escorted by four Suaquis and two Yaqui caciques. Four thousand children and five hundred adults were baptized during this first tour, very slight opposition and no open hostility being encountered, though for years the padres in this district were deemed in constant danger, and once at Torin a plot to kill Ribas was frustrated by a faithful Indian. The missionaries remained among the upper Yaquis, who were more docile than those nearer the coast. Eight large towns were founded, and a very large part of the nation were converted within a few years by the two pioneers and by padres Juan de Cardenas, Angel Balestra, and others who were sent later to the Yaqui field. 33 The Nevomes who lived above the Yaquis, chiefly in the towns of Comuripa, Tecoripa, Suaqui, and Aivino, part of which tribe had previously gone south to live on the Rio Sinaloa, received padres in 1618-19. Padre Diego de Guzman first made a successful tour of baptism, and was followed by Diego Vandersipe, Mar tin Burgesio, Francisco Olinano, and Bias de Parecles, the latter dying six days after taking charge, probably at a much later date. 39 It will be remembered that at the beginning of the century Captain Hurdaide visited the Chinipa region in search of mines. About 1620 the Chinipas came down of their own accord with a store of maize for z * Anna, 1617, MS., 579-86. Letter of P. Andres Perez narrating his tour of 40 days to the Yaquis. Sec also Ribas, 301-40; Alegrc, ii. 92-4, 113- 14. Stone, Notes, Sonora, 15-16, says the Yaquis always respected the padres but disliked other white men. Anua, 1619, MS., 586-606. Baptisms of the year in all Sinaloa 5,096 .children, 1,506 adults. Great prosperity. Ribus, 301-72; Alegre, ii. 117. CONVERSION OF CHINIPAS. 225 the starving Sinaloas, and to ask in return for padres. On their return they built a church and made other preparations for the expected change of faith. One chief, as a proof of zeal, having shot a female relation in a drunken brawl, bared his back publicly in the church and received two azotes from each prominent man of the tribe as a penance. The next year Padre Pedro Juan Castini visited this field, baptizing four hundred children, and taking back with him for in struction several of' the tribe. Other visits were exchanged, and the Guazapares and Varohios adjoin ing the Chinipas on the south and north, together with the Ternoris and Hios of the same region, seemed to join in the enthusiasm of their neighbors, making peace among themselves and giving their children for baptism. Whether or not Castini ever came here to live is not clear, but six or seven years later Padre % Julio Pascual came, and in four years reduced two thousand families, it is said, of Chinipas, Guazapares, and Varohios to three towns called by the tribal names. The same padre worked also among other tribes, the Hio and Temori converts being included perhaps in the towns referred to. It was in 1620-1 that Padre Miguel Godinez entered among the Coni- caris, reducing also the bands known as Basiroas, Tehatas, Huvagueres, and Tehuicos; and Father Men- dez founded a mission among the Sisibotaris, or Sa- huaripas, who had been visited before by Guzman, including also in his conversion the Batucos and suc ceeded finally by Bartolome Castano.^ 4 a Father Bibas retired in 1620 after sixteen years of service in Sinaloa, to accept the office of provincial in Mexico, being succeeded at the Yaqui mission of Torin by Father Villalta. Mendez went with him, but returned the next year to resume his labors, being *Anua, 1620-2, MS., 606-95. Baptisms of 1620-21, 17,182. Alf. Lucas Valenzuela is named as a resident and benefactor of San Felipe. Also ltibas t 179, 216-17, 254-6, 384-92; Alegre, ii. 31, 121-4. HIST. N. HEX. STATES, VOL. I. 15 226 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. received with great festivities. In 1G21 converts numbered 86,340 in fifty-five villages ; seven new mis sionaries had come in 1619; and it was deemed best to organize the northern missions into a new district called now or a little later San Ignacio, under Father Villalta as superior. The district embraced in round numbers 21,000 Mayos, 30,000 Yaquis, and 9,000 Nevomes, each including kindred bands under other names, and was put in charge of eleven missionaries. 41 For five years the records show a missionary force of twenty-seven priests, sixteen of them in the south, and four lay brothers. Of the thirty- one I have named twenty-nine, but have no clue to the others. Baptisms in 1621 were over nine thousand. In 1622, the Aivinos were led by their sorcerers to apostatize, and in the trouble Padre Basilio received , an arrow wound. Captain Hurdaide came north and found the rebels fortified in an adobe house furnished with port-holes, from which protection they sallied out two thousand strong, but were driven back after a bloody fight. Many were suffocated by fire thrown in through the ports at Hurdaide's command, but at last the famous seals were thrown in as a token of peace, and surrender followed as did conversion, for Basilio and Olinano within a few days baptized four hundred children at Matape and Teopari. 42 Villalta, superior in the north, died in 1623 while on his way to accept the rectorate of the Guatemala college. 43 Varela seems to have become superior in his stead. Pestilence and famine were prevalent and 41 The distribution seems to have been: Yaquis and Sisibotaris; Villalta, Mendez, Burgesio, Basilio, and another. Mayos in three partidos; 1st, or eastern, including Tepahues, Miguel Godinez; 2d, or central, Diego de la Crux; 3d on coast, Juan Varela (or Barera) and Juan Angel: Nevomes, Olinano, and Vandersipe. The distribution in the south is not given; but Padre Oton is mentioned in the Anna of 1621 as among the Tehuecos; and also the name of Gasper de Varela appears. ** Anita, 1622, MS., 671-95; Ribas, 371-80; Alegre, ii. 139-40; Mange, Hist. Pirn., 399. i3 It is because of his death not having occurred in Sinaloa I suppose that there is no mention of it in the Anua. His successor is later called Julio (instead of Juan) Varela. There may have been such a padre. A NEW GOVERNOR. 227 deadly; yet in 1624 the number of Christian natives is estimated at over 100,000. 44 In 1626 Martin Perez died, the pioneer Jesuit of Sinaloa, having come with Tapia in 1591. For ten years he had been unable to rise from his chair without help, ar\d he is said to have left a manuscript narrative of events down to 1620. 45 In 1626 Sinaloa was also called upon to part with the valiant, pious, and popular comandante and alcalde mayor Captain Hurdaide, 48 who was succeeded by Captain Pedro de Perea, said to have been a relative of the viceroy. During Perea's rule at San Felipe and -Fort Mon- tesclaros the records become meagre after the first few years, and are confined for the most part to the north ern district. The new captain's first act was to detain on suspicion certain Nevome chiefs, who had come to offer allegiance to the successor of Hurdaide. This caused a revolt among the Nevomes, who threatened Father Olinano, and inflicted upon Vandersipe a wound with a poisoned arrow, that afflicted him dur ing the rest of his life. It was also in 1526-7 that the Cliinipas missions were founded by Father Pas- cual as already related. In 1628 the Huites were converted by Padre Castini; a new pueblo of Hios was added to the Cliinipas mission; mines began to be worked in the same region; Captain Perea made a tour with sixty soldiers and two thousand allies to restore order in the northern district; the Ai vinos, 44 Annas, 1623-4, MS., G95-710. Villafafie was now rector. Brother Martin Ugarte died in 1624 after 20 years' service in Sinaloa. Hurdaide also had occasion to make one of his raids this year. Also Alcgre, ii. 141, 143, 153. Cavo, Tres Siglos, i. 297, says the pestilence was in 1625 and killed 8,500. * 5 Martin Perez was born February 2, 1560, at the villa of San Martin, his father being a rich mine owner, and was educated in Mexico. He became a Jesuit in 1577, and had a varied experience as teacher and pi'eacher before he came to the north. He died April 24, 1626, at San Felipe. A detailed sketch of his life and many virtues is given in the Anna, 1625, MS., 711-29. See also Ribas, 341; Ato/rc, ii. 169-70; Ramirez, Hint. Duranqo, 70-1. *Anua, 1626, MS., 750. According to Ribas, 362-3, and Mange, Hist. Pirn,, his death was several years later. See Urrea, in Soc. Mex. Geoy., Bol. y ii. 42-4. 228 ANNALS OF SIKALOA AND SONORA. Toapas, Matapes, Batucos, and Sisibotaris were clam orous for padres; and finally the conversion of the latter was undertaken by the veteran Mendez. The Anna of 1629, consisting of a letter from Padre Guz man on the Nevomes and their ninety rancherias, is the last of the original records in rny collection. 47 In 1630 fathers Martin Azpilcueta and Lorenzo Cardenas went to live among the Aivinos and Batu cos, where Basilio and Olinano had already baptized children. The Christian ardor of the Aivinos had 'cooled somewhat through the influence of apostate Nevomes. Cdrdenas increased the spirit of hostility at first by removing a vault containing the body of a dead chief, and frequented by the people as a shrine for their protection against lightning. Almost im mediately a woman was struck by. the dreaded thun derbolt; still, as a baptized child in her arms escaped injury, and as another woman at the point of death recovered on the reception of the rite, the padre was able to restore quiet. Azpilcueta was not well received either at Batuco; but by patience and kind ness as usual gained the good will of the people. Home troubles once overcome, a new danger threat ened from abroad in the form of a hostile band from Sonora Valley, who thought to frighten all padres from their country by killing this one. Azpilcueta was, however, equal to the emergency, adopting a policy almost unheard of in Jesuit annals. He sent a message to the foe, asking" them to make haste as he was ready and would soon behead them all, and then, surrounded by a murderous array of machetes and fire-arms, coolly awaited their approach. This novel attitude on the part of a missionary surprised and disconcerted the savages to such an extent that when the padre discharged a musket and brandished a machete they turned and fled, and troubled the *Anua, 1626-9; MS., 730-803; Baptisms in 1625-6, 8,530; Kibas, 362-3; Alc.rjre, ii. 172*-6; Mange, 399. CHINIPA REVOLT. 229 mission no more; on the contrary they soon became the best of converts. 43 The revolt of 1631-2 in the Chinipa region was the most notable event of the period. Here, where we left Father Pascual toiling with flattering success in his three towns, the Guazapare chief Camabeai fell from grace, gained a following, and plotted to take the missionary's life. The faithful Chinipas, finding that Pascual would take no precautions, obtained from the fort a guard which for a time impeded the rebel designs; but the malcontents were so fervent in their pretended devotion as to disarm all suspicion until the soldiers were sent back, when they resumed their plottings and gained adherents from the Varo- hios. On January 23, 1632, Padre^ Manuel Martinez arrived as a co-laborer with Pascual; on the 31st the two, with a small band of neophytes, were attacked at Varohio; arid next day, after their house and church had been burned, were killed. Brutal indig nities were offered to their bodies, which were recov ered and buried at Conicari by P. Marcos Gomez on the 14th of February. Fifteen Indians perished with their martyred masters. Captain Perea made a raid into the mountains, and with the aid of native allies is said to have killed eight hundred of the rebels. New padres were sent here, apparently Juan Varela and Francisco Torices, and the Chinipas were victo rious in several encounters with their apostate neigh bors; but it was soon deemed best to abandon the mission, and the Chinipas, with many faithful families of Varohios and Guazapares, came to live in the country of the Sinaloas, being distributed among the different towns. The surviving rebels fled to the mountains, resumed their wild life, and mingled to a considerable extent with the Tarahumares, although 48 Alcyre, ii. 185-8. Mange, Hist. Pimerta, 400, speaks of an apostate who entered a church with two knives to kill P. Mendez, and who, after being shot, was quartered by Capt. Perea for his sacrilege. 230 AX1STALS OF S1NALOA AXD SONORA. many years later, as we shall see, the Spaniards found them back in their old homes. 49 During this period also the conversion was extended over into Sonora Valley, the region of the modern Ures and of the ancient and ill-fated San Geronimo. Padre Bartplome Castano first came here to live among the Opatas in 1638, though Mendez may have visited the country some years earlier, and Madre Maria de Jesus Agreda is supposed to have extended her miraculous tour of about 1630 up through this country to the Rio Colorado. 50 Within a year three or four thousand of the natives were baptized and settled in three towns with fine churches. Early in 1639 Padre Pedro Pantoja came to aid Castano, and new towns were founded. 51 The Opatas never gave the Spaniards any^t rouble in later years. In 1639 a new mission district was formed in the north by the visitador Leonardo Jatino, acting in the name of Ribas the provincial. It was called San Francisco Javier, and embraced the missions, or partidos, of Comuripa, Aivino, Batuco, Ures, and Sonora. This left to the central district of San Ignacio the Yaquis, Mayos, Tepahues, Conicaris, Onabas, and Mobas. 52 Brother Francisco Castro, said to be a relation of Viceroy Villamanrique, died in 1527 after thirty-four years of service in Sinaloa. 53 Bishop Hermosillo of Durango visited the province in 1631, going as far north as Nacori among the Tehuecos. He confirmed some twelve thousand persons at San Felipe, where he said the first pontifical mass; but he died soon after setting out on his return and his body was carried ^ Mange, Hist. Pimeria, 399-400; Rdadon de la Nueva Entrada, 77'9-80; Alegre, ii. 190-3; Bibas, 256-68. 50 Stone, Sonora, 9-10, says erroneously that P. Mendez established a mis sion at Ures in 1635. 31 S. Pedro Aconchi, Concepcion Babiacora, Remedies Banamichi, S. Ig nacio Sinoquipe, and Rosario Nacameri are named, some of them not founded probably before 1646, or even later. In Sonora, Estadistica, 627, it is stated that P. Gastaiio entered in 1640 and was soon joined by P. Lorenzo Flores. ^Alcgre, ii. 222-3; iii. Ill; Ribas, 392-7; Mange, 400; Alccdo, Dice., iv. 574; Hernandez, Comp. Geoff. Son., 15-16; D'Avity, Descrip., ii. 85^7. ** Alee/re, ii. 173-4; Hibas, 231-5. MISSIONARY CHANGES. 231 back to San Felipe for burial. 5 * About 1632 Father Pedro Zambrano is named as one of the missionary force, and in 1633 Padre Juan de Albieuri was at the mission of Bamupa, where he completed his history of Father Tapia's life and services. 55 In 1634 Villa- fane who had come to the country before 1595, but had been absent several times on visits to Mexico and Europe, died at his old post. 56 This death left Father Pedro Mendez the oldest pioneer; but he retired in 1635 weighed down with age and infirmities, 57 leaving Father Vicente de Aguila the oldest resident mission ary. In 1636 the province had to lose by death four of its Jesuits, Paredes, Azpilcueta, and the brothers Varela. 58 Floods in 1639 afflicted the country, and a pestilence in 1641, strengthening according to the Jesuit version the hold of the padres on the natives. In 1641 also the veteran Father Aguila died at the age of seventy years. 59 All the deceased of the period receive from the chroniclers eulogies which it is to be hoped were entirely deserved; but it is to be regretted that Jesuit eulogies are so like one another as to be of comparatively little use to the historian. Captain Perea seems to have held the command from 1626 to 1640. Captain Francisco Bustainante signed himself in 1636 lieutenant-governor and captain of San Felipe presidio; 60 but this is all we know of , 177-8; Calk, Mem. Not., 95, 98; Gonzalez Ddvila, Teatro Ecles., i. 248; Alcgre, ii. 176. The last author implies that the visit was earlier, but is in error. , 281 ; Albieuri, Hist. Mis., MS., 12-13. , 349-57; Alegre, ii. 201. Villafaue was a native of Leon, Spain, and the son of noble parents. He was serving in Michoacan when the news of Tapia's martyrdom called him to Sinaloa. He was rector at San Felipe for years; and also served a term as rector in Mexico, subsequently visiting Koine as procurador. His service in Sinaloa amounted to thirty years. He wrote an arte of the Guazave language. ^Alcgre, ii. 209. Mendez had come before 1595 and had once before re tired for a time to Mexico. 58 Alcgre, ii. 188, 203-4. l!iba$, 397-402; Alegre, ii. 235. Aguila came to Sinaloa about 1606, being a Spaniard by birth, and having served a few years at San Luis de la Paz. He left several MS. works. Backer, iv. 4. W 0rteya, Copia de la Demarc., MS. Another captain, Matias Lobo Pe- 232 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. his rule, and the records are in other respects some what confused. In 1640 or 1641 Luis Cestin de Canas succeeded Perea; 61 whereupon the latter ob tained from Viceroy Escalona, with royal approval, a division of the province and a new command for him self. This temporary division was the most important event of the decade, but little is known about it. Perea obtained half of the presidial force, agreed to pacify and convert the natives *north of the Yaqui, and established himself in the Sonora Valley, styling his new province Nueva Andalucia and his capital San Juan Bautista, 62 It is possible that he began ^opera tions here several years earlier, and that the confusion already noted respecting rulers at San Felipe pertains to the officers left in temporary command. 63 Perea seems also to have visited Mexico, or at least to have reached his province from Parral through the Tara- humara country in the autumn of 1641, taking with him at first Padre Geronimo Figueroa. Dissensions ensued between the two comandantes, the particulars of which are not known, but during which Perea had to submit to a reduction of his force and obtained twelve men from New Mexico to fill up the number to twenty-five. His rule was also marked by a quarrel with the Jesuits and a consequent at tempt to put the spiritual interests of Nueva Anda lucia, or Sonora, into the hands of another order. Four or five Franciscans under Padre Juan Suarez were brought in for 'this purpose. According to Mange's statements these friars were stationed among reira, is named by Niel, Apnnt., 67-8, as having conquered Sonora in 1636. I have no idea what this can mean. 61 Alegre, ii. 235-6, implies that the change was in 1641. Zamacois, Hist. Mej. , v. 326, calls the new ruler Luis Cestinos. Nothing seems to be known of his rule except his trip to California mentioned elsewhere in this volume. Mange, Hist. Pirn., 481-2, tells us that Peralta y Mendoza succeeded Perea in 1640; and even Alegre, ii. 244, speaks of Padre Canal about 1644 having a commission to investigate the acts of the ' defunct governor Peralta. ' Gz According to Zapata, Relation , 363, San Juan was a mining town seven leagues from Oposura and was still called capital in 1678. 63 Rivera, Gob. Mex., i. 183, says Perea made a contract for northern re duction with Viceroy Cadereita in 1636. He was to obtain from the governor of Nueva Vizcaya the titles of justicia mayor and capitan u guerra. PEREA'S GOVERNMENT. 233 different tribes and raneherias, 64 where they did good service as missionaries for some years; but this au thor's narrative on the subject ends here vaguely and abruptly. According to Alegre, however, the only other writer who speaks of the matter at all, when the Franciscans arrived and the comandante attempted to station them, particularly in the Cumupas Valley, the Jesuit visitador Pantoja protested and sent Padre Geronimo Canal to Mexico with a report to the pro vincial and viceroy. Pending a decision Perea en deavored to locate his friars in the valleys of the wild Imuris, by whose warriors he was forced back. His disappointment -laid him on a sick-bed. Recovering somewhat he started from Banamichi to Toape, but died on the way, October 4, 1644. A little later Padre Canal returned with a decision favorable to the Jesuits. He brought an order for the Franciscans, waiting at Babispe, to relinquish all claims to the mission field, 60 and perhaps for Perea to quit his office and his province, thus putting an end to the exist ence of Nueva Andalucia as a separate province. Rivera tells us, however, that after Perea's death Simon Lasso de la Vega was appointed to succeed him as alcalde mayor and comandante of Sonora, and becoming involved in quarrels with the comandante of San Felipe, was treacherously killed and succeeded by Juan Fernandez de Morales. This officer's au thority was also disputed by Admiral Casanate, who had succeeded to the command of Sinaloa. 63 This 64 Potlapigua, Babispe, Baseraca, Guazava, Optito, Techico de Guachi, Batepito, Teuricachi, Cuquiarichi, Arizpe, Chinapa, Bacuachi (Bacatu de Guachi), Cucurpe, and Toape are named, the orthography being somewhat modified by me. Mange, JJist. Pirn., 401-2. The same writer gives a cer tificate of P. Suarez at Chinapa, without date, to the effect that Francisco Perez Granillo, teniente de justicia mayor y capitan d guerra de esta nuestrct conversion y de otra* de la Compailia de Jesus, had served for five years, and that by his aid the Franciscans had baptized over 7,000 souls, running great risks in the Potlapigua valleys, at Teuricachi, and at 'our convent' at Chinapa; 63 Hist. Comp. Jesus, ii. 242-4, 235-6. Yet the some author, 404, speaks of disturbances among the Franciscans of Teuricachi district in 1049-50, caused by the disgraceful retreat of the Sinaloa comandante who marched against the Sumas with a strong force. Jfoera, Gobernantea de Mex., i. 183. 234 ANNALS OF SINALOA AND SONORA. must have been as late as 1650; 67 and between the terms of Canas and Casanate at a date not exactly known Juan Peralta y Mendoza seems to have held the position. About the middle of the century, how ever, it is certain that the two provinces were practi cally reunited under the authority of the captain at San Felipe; yet the "captain of Sonora" was still vaguely mentioned, a garrison being generally main tained at San Juan for the protection of the Sonora Valley. ' Father Luis Bonifacio retired in 1640 to succeed Ribas as provincial in Mexico, dying in Michoacan four years later. Pedro Caslini retired about 1644 after twenty-four years of service, and Jose Collantes after twelve years. The same year occurred the death of Miguel Godinez and of Angel Balestra. Bartolome Castano, the pioneer missionary of Sonora proper, retired about 1645 after serving twenty-five years. Baltasar Cervantes was another of the Jesuit band, about whom nothing appears, except that he died at Mexico in 1649. Pedro Velasco, who held the post of provincial in 1646, also died in 1649. He had probably retired long before, as the term of his service is given as fourteen years. 63 The only hostil- 67 It was in a e