THE ART MODERN LACE-MAKING, PRICE: FIFTY CENTS OR TWO SHILLINGS. PUBLISHED BY THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING Co. (LIMITED). LONDON AND NEW YORK. PRINTED DNTRODUGTION. OWING to the growing popularity of the fascinating art of lace- making and the appeals of our readers to place it within their reach, we have prepared this pamphlet. In making it a perfect instructor and a reliable exponent of the favorite varieties of lace, we have spared neither time nor expense, and are mos: happy to offer to our patrons what a celebrated maker of Mod- ern Lace has pronounced as " the finest book upon lace-makiner to be found on either continent." The illustrations, in the main, are direct reproductions from genuine, hand-made modern laces, such as any lady may make who masters the instructions found upon these pages. The beauty of these laces is beyond question, their durability all that can be desired, and their textures may be varied from an extreme delicacy to a sumptuous opposite. In introducing the art of modern lace-making into the realms of our readers, we feel all of the pleasure we are sure we thus convey. THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING Co., Limited. CONTENT^. Pages 5 to 9 LACE-MAKING, ANCIENT AND MODERN METHODS. Pages 9 to 19 STITCHES USED IN MODERN LACE-MAKING. Pages 19 to 22 FANCY BRAIDS CORDS, RINGS AND BUTTONS. Pages 22 to 96 DESIGNS, LACE ARTICLES, EDGINGS, ETC., ETC., IN MODERN LACE. Pages 96 to 125 DARNED NET SAMPLES, KERCHIEFS, TIDIES, EDGINGS, INSERTIONS, ETC., ETC., WITH DESIGNS FOR THE SAME AND OTHER ARTICLES. ANCIENT AND A00ERN AEtHODS. HE art of making lace in one form or'another has existed from the earliest ages. There are Scriptural references to various web-like fabrics, which were of rude construction, no doubt, but whose general characteristics were identical with those productions of modern skill which have for centuries been known as lace. Homer and other ancient writers constantly mention net-works of fancifully embroidered materials ; gold thread-work was known to the Romans ; and as Egyptian robes of state are depicted upon the tombs of the earlier dynasties as being fashioned from a looped net-work or crochet, it is probable that the Israelites learned the art from the Egyptians. Museums contain specimens of lace dating back to periods that to .us of the present day seem mere dreams of reigns and eras, and history includes a scattered literature of lace which proves that the art must have been practised almost from the beginning. Up to the Sixteenth Century, however, open work embroidery was the favorite decoration, and from it the tangible origin of lace seems derived. During the Renaissance period the first book of embroidery patterns and lace-work appeared. The earliest volume bearing a date was printed at Cologne in 1527 ; and it was during the reign of Richard III. of Eng- land that the word lace was first used in the descriptions of the royal wardrobe. At first the best known laces were those of Venice, Milan and Genoa. The Italians claim the invention of point or needle-made lace ; but the Venetian point is now a product of the past, and England and France supply most of the fine laces of the present time. Lace-makers in the various European countries are trained to the work from child- hood ; but it is said that the makers of Honiton lace, the fabric of which Queen Victoria's wedding gown was made, are rapidly decreasing in numbers, so that there are few persons now living who understand the construction of this exquisite " pillow " lace. The costly point and Honiton and the dainty Mechlin and Valenciennes of bygone clays can only be produced by trained lace-workers, whose skilful fingers weave bobbins of cobweb-like thread to and fro over the "pillow" necessary to antique methods; and for this reason fine lace-making is practically beyond the skill of the amateur. Besides, some of the threads in the very filmy laces are so fine that they cannot be successfully manipulated except in a THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. moist atmosphere, such as that of Great Britain ; and even there some of the more exquisite specimens must perforce be made in underground rooms, since it is only there that the proper degree of moisture can be obtained. In dry climates these gossamer-like threads would roughen and break at almost the slightest touch. Referring to the known origin of some of the earlier laces, a writer upon the subject says : "They say it was a woman, Barbara Uttmann, who invented pillow lace in the i6th century. Women have ever been patrons of lace-making. Victoria has kept the Honiton laces in fashion, and it was the Duchess of Argyle who introduced lace-making in Scot- land. The Countess of Erne and Lady Denny and Lady Bingham began it in Ireland, and Lady De Vere gave her own Brussels point for patterns when the first Irish point was made at Curragh. It was Elizabeth of Denmark who introduced lace-making in that country, and the Archduchess Sophia who started lace schools in Bohemia. " Now at least I can have laces," said Anne of Austria, when Louis XIII., her husband died, and her court was famous for its cleanliness aaid its Spanish point. Colbert had three women as coadjutors when he started lace-making in France. It was because Josephine loved point d'Alengon that Napoleon revived it. Eugenie spent $5,000 for a single dress flounce, and had $1,000,000 in fine laces." Victoria's favorite, Honiton, is not considered a particularly beautiful lace, although its weaving is so tedious and difficult. " Real Honiton laces," so says an authority, " are made up of bits and bits fashioned by many different women in their own little cottages here a leaf, there a flower, slowly woven through the long, weary days, only to be united afterward in the precious web by other workers who never saw its beginning. There is a pretty lesson in the thought that to the perfection of each of these little pieces the beauty of the whole is due that the rose or leaf some humble peasant woman wrought carefully, helps to make the fabric worthy the adorning of a queen or the decoration of an altar, even as the sweetness and patient perfection in any life makes all living more worthy and noble. A single flower upon which taste and fancy were lavished, and which sustained and deft labor brought to perfection, represents the lives of many diligent women workers. It has become so much the fashion to worship all things ancient that most lovers of fine lace would prefer to have it a century old ; and yet there never was a time when laces were more beautiful, more artistic and more unique in design than just at the present'day ; for modern laces preserve the best features of the laces that have gone before them, and have added so many new inspirations that except for the sentiment, the romance or the history connecting this scrap with a title, that with a famous beauty, and another with some cathedral's sacred treasure, the palm would certainly be given to the gauze-like production of the poor flax thread spinner of the present day." Not all people know the difference between point lace which is made with the needle, and pillow lace which is made with the bobbins but much of the beautiful point lace of the present day is made with the needle, and its beauty stands a favorable comparison with the more costly pillow lace. Strictly modern lace-making is a result of American ingenuity, and it has so simple a basis and is so easy to learn that any woman of average skill may, with little difficulty, pro- THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. duce by its different processes, laces that are really magnificent and quite as substantial and useful as they are exquisitely beautiful. In America modern lace-making has been developed to a high degree of perfection by its pioneer, Mrs. Grace B. McCormick, in whose designing rooms at No. 923 Broadway, New York, may be seen specimens of modern laces of every variety, from dainty needle-point to a very elaborate kind known as the Royal Bat- tenburg. This English name for an American production was selected in honor of the Battenburg nuptials, which occurred about the time a patent for making the lace was applied for at Washington. Only a few years have elapsed since this plucky little woman made a single piece of lace edging from common braid as an experiment, and sold it for a tri- fling sum. Love for the work and perseverance have enabled her to overcome obstacles that would have discouraged a woman of ordinary energy, and she has gradually improved upon her earlier methods until modern lace occupies a front rank among the numerous dainty forms of needle-work of the day. One of the finest specimens lately placed on exhibition is a table-cloth intended for use at elaborate dinners. It is made of the finest table linen and Royal Battenburg lace. The cloth is, of course, very large, and the lace, in the form of wide insertion, is let in above the border and is also arranged to divide the center into three squares. An outside border of edging to match completes this exquisite production, which has been two years in course of construction, and is valued at four hundred and seventy-five dollars. The same style of lace may be made by any one who studies the art and in any width or form, and it may be produced in many textures, although really intended for heavy effects. The making of such lace possesses a great charm for womankind in general, and will undoubtedly retain favor as long as needlecraft remains a pastime and employment with the gentler sex. MATERIALS. The requirements of modern lace-making are few. The products are classed as Honi- ton, Point, Duchesse, Princesse, Royal Battenburg or Old English Point, etc., etc. ; but all are made with various braids arranged in different patterns and connected by numerous kinds of stitches, many different stitches often appearing in one variety of lace. The materials required are neither numerous nor expensive. The following is a com- plete list : Tracing cloth, leather or toile ciree, lace braids of various kinds, linen thread, two or three sizes of needles, a good thimble and a pair of fine sharp scissors. For each kind of lace there is a special sort of braid in various patterns, and the selection of the thread depends entirely upon the variety and quality of lace to be made. This selection should be left to the decision of the teacher or the skilled maker of laces, as she knows from experience the proper combinations of materials. Thus, in making Honiton and point lace, thread in twelve different degrees of fineness is used; and as the braids also vary in size, the thread must always be adapted to the braid. For Battenburg lace the thread is in eight sizes, the finest being used only for " whipping curves " or drawing edges into the outlines required. The " Ideal Honiton " is a new lace made with fancy Honiton braid and wash-silk floss in dainty colors, and is exquisite for doilies, mats, table scarfs and center-pieces. Designs sold by lace-makers are usually drawn upon tracing cloth, as this is flexible THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. and much more agreeable to work upon than any other material. The tracing cloth, when the braid is arranged, is basted to a foundation of leather or toile dree; or smooth wrap- ping-paper may be basted under the design and will furnish all the support that is neces- sary, while being lighter than the toile dree. It must be remembered that the work is really wrong side out while in progress, so that it will not show its true beauty until finished and removed from the foundation or pattern. According to the braid and thread selected, these laces may be made of fairy-like fineness or of massive elegance general results being dainty enough for the gown of a bride or sumptuous enough for the adornment of an altar. Lace-making establishments will furnish designs of any width or shape desired, and will also originate designs for special articles for which there are only occasional calls. Regular edging designs are ordinarily made in four widths from quite narrow to very wide ; and not infrequently a handkerchief design is enlarged sufficiently to form a square for a table or a fancy stand. In filling in the spaces of any design or pattern, the worker may choose the stitches that please her best, if she does not like those accompanying the design that she has selected or that has been sent her. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. STITCHES USED IN A0DERN As in all fancy work which has a set of foundation stitches pecu- liar to it that may be varied accord- ing to the proficiency and ingenuity of the maker, so has Modern Lace a series of primary stitches from which may be evolved many others. A large number of illustrations of stitches, some of which are primary or foundation stitches, while others are combinations, are here pre- sented, with full instructions for making ; and the entire series given will make perfectly plain to the student the ease with which she may combine or invent stitches, when those of the design she is to work are not to her likiru No. i. POINT DE BRUXELLES (BRUSSELS POINT). No. 2. POINT DE BRUXELLES WORKED IN Rows. No. 3. POINT DE VENISE (VENICE POINT). No. 4. PETIT POINT DE VENISE (LITTLE VENICE POINT). The first stitch given is the main foundation stitch. PLAIN POINT STITCHES. Nos. i AND 2. POINT DE BRUXELLES OR BRUSSELS POINT. Among the stitches most used in lace-making is Point de Bruxelles or Brussels point. It is simply a button-hole stitch worked loosely, and it must be done with regularity, as the beauty of the work depends almost wholly upon the evenness of the stitches. Brussels point is occasionally used as an edge, but is more frequently seen in rows worked back and forth to fill in spaces, or as a ground work. The illustrations clearly represent the method of making this stitch. No. 3. POINT DE VENISE, OR VENICE POINT. This stitch is worked from left to right, like Brussels point. Work i loose button-hole stitch, and in this stitch work 4 button-hole stitches tightly drawn up, then work another loose button-hole stitch, then 4 more tight button- hole stitches in the loose one ; repeat to the end of the row, and fasten off. No. 4. PETIT POINT DE VENISE, OR LITTLE VENICE POINT. This stitch is worked in the same manner as point de Venise, but one tight stitch only is worked in each loose button- hole stitch. This is a most useful stitch for filling in small spaces. No. 5. ITALIAN LACE STITCH. Commence at the right side and pass the thread to the left. First row. Make a loose button-hole stitch into the braid to form a loop, then pass the needle under the line of thread, making the loops an eighth of an inch apart. Second row. Pass the thread back to the left, make a button- hole stitch in every loop, and pass the needle under the line of thread after each button-hole stitch. No. 5. ITALIAN LACE STITCH. No. 6. COBWEH LACE STITCH. (For Directions see next Pag?.) 10 THE ART OF LIODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 6. COBWEB LACE STITCH. Commence at the right side, pass the thread to the left, work 3 button-hole stitches, miss the space of 3, which will leave a small loop, and continue these details to the end. Second row. Pass the thread back to the left side, work 3 button-hole stitches in each loop, taking up the line of thread with the loop, as seen in the engraving. No. 7. POINT BRABANCON. This stitch is worked as follows from left to right : First row. Make i long, loose point de Bruxelles, and i short loose one alternately, to end of row. Second ww.-Make 7 tight point de Brux- elles in the i long, loose stitch, and -2 short, loose point de Bruxelles in the f Hpjjj ^^\ short, loose stitch on I previous row, and re- peat across the jow. No. 7. POINT BRABANCON. No. 9. POINT r>' ESPAGNE (SPANISH POINT). Fourth row. Make 5 close, i short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, i short, 5 close, i short, 2 close, i short, and repeat. Con- tinue the rows until sufficient of the pattern is worked. No. 9. POINT D'ESPAGNE, OR SPANISH POINT. This va- riety of stitch is worked from left to right as follows : Insert the needle in the edge of the braid, keeping the thread turned to the right, and bringing it out inside No. 8. POINT DE VALENCIENNES Third (VALENCIENNES STITCH). No. 8. POINT DE VALENCIENNES, OR VALENCIENNES STITCH. This stitch appears complicated, but is really easy to work. Begin at the left hand and work 6 point de Bruxelles stitches at unequal distances, every alternate stitch being the larger. Second row. Upon the first large or long stitch, work 9 close button-hole stitches, then i short point de Bruxelles stitch under the one above, then 9 close stitches, and so on to the end of the row (right to left). Third row. Make 5 close button-hole stitches in the 9 of previous row, i short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, in the Brux- elles stitch, i short point de Bruxelles, 5 close, i short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, i short, 5 close, i short and repeat. No. io. GENOA LACE STITCH. No. ii. FLEMISH LACE STITCH. (For Directions sec next Page.) the loop formed by the thread (see illustration No. 9) ; the needle must pass from the back of the loop through it. Pass the needle under the stitch and bring it out in front, thus twice twisting the thread, which produces the cord-like appearance of this stitch. At the end of each row fasten to the braid and sew back, inserting the needle once in every open stitch. No. io. GENOA LACE STITCH. Commence at the right side, and work as follows : THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. First row. Work 4 button- hole stitches, miss the space of 3, work 3, miss the space of 3, work 4. Continue to the end. Second row. Work 9 stitches close together, 3 into the spaces of the 4, and 3 more into the loop at each side of it. Miss the 3 stitches, and make 9 as before. Third row. Make 9 close stitches, 3 into the last 3 spaces of the 9, 3 into the loop, and 3 into the first spaces of the 9 next, and so on to the end. Fourth row. Repeat the first, loop, and the 4 into the center No. ii. FLEMISH LACE right side, and work as follows : hole stitches close together, miss space of 8 ; this will leave a large Second row. Make 8 button- and 2 in the small ones, row, making 2 stitches in each No. 12. POINT DE FILLET, This stitch is also represented method of making the knot is ground-work where Brussels net No. 12. POINT DE FILLET (NET GROUNDWORK STITCH). No. 14. POINT TURQUE (TURKISH STITCH). No. 13. POINT DE REPRISE. making the 3 stitches into the spaces of the nine. S T i T c H. Commence at the First row. Work 2 button- the space of 2, work 2, miss the loop and a small one alternately, hole stitches in the larger loops Third row. Repeat the first loop of the second row. OR NET GROUNDWORK STITCH. at No. 21, on page 13, but the here illustrated. It is used for is not imitated, and is very It is begun in the corner or effective wherever it is used, crossswise of the space to be filled. A loose point de Bruxelles stitch is first taken and fastened to the braid, then passed twice through the braid as shown in the illustration, and worked in rows backward and forward as follows: i point de Bruxelles stitch, then before proceeding to the next stitch, pass the needle under the knot, over the thread, and again under it, as shown in the illustration. This stitch is very quickly worked. No. 13. POINT DE REPRISE. This stitch is worked by darning over and under two threads forming a triangle. The space is filled by parallel and crosswise bars placed at equal distances, and on the triangles thus produced point de reprise is worked. No. 14. POINT TURQUE, OR TURKISH POINT. This easy and effective stitch is very appropriate for filling either large or small spaces ; the thread employed should be varied in thickness according space to be filled, a loop into the braid, from right to left, through the twist and engraving), draw up Second row. i right to left, the same as first, us- thread in place of the the needle through vious row, as shown No. 15. TREBLE POINT D ESPAGNE. (.For Directions NO. l6.-^PO!NT D'ESPAGNE. (CLOSE.) Page 12.) to the size of the First row. Work bringing the thread passing the needle through the loop (see tight and repeat, straight thread from Third row. Work ing the straight braid, and passing the loop of the pre- in the illustration. No. 17. POINT DE GRECQUK (GRECIAN POINT). No. 18. POINT DE CORDOVA. No. 15. TREBLE POINT D' ESPAGNE. This stitch is worked in exactly the same way as the open and close varieties just mentioned, as follows : 3 close stitches, i open, 3 close to the end of each row. Sew back, and in the next row make i open, 3 close, i open, 3 close to the end ; repeat the rows as far as necessary, taking care that the close and open stitches follow in regular order. Diamonds, stars, squares, blocks and various other pretty patterns may be formed with this stitch. No 1 6. POINT D' ESPAGNE (CLOSE). This stitch is worked like open point d'Espagne (see No. 9, page 10) but so closely as to only allow the needle to pass through in the next row. It is also worked from left to right, and is fastened to the braid at the end of each row. No. 17. POINT DE GRECQUE OR GRECIAN POINT. Point de Grecque is made from left to right, and is worked backward and forward. It is begun by i stitch in loose point de Bruxelles and followed by 3 of close point d'Espagne ; then i Bruxelles, 3 point d'Espagne, to the end of the row ; in returning work in the same manner. No. 18. POINT DE CORDOVA. This stitch is useful as a variation, and resembles the point de reprise of Guipure lace making. It is worked in a similar manner, over and under the sides of squares formed by intersecting straight lines of the thread. No. 19. POINT D'ALENCON. WITH TWISTED STITCH. This stitch is used to fill in narrow spaces where great lightness of effect is desired, and is usually seen along the sides of insertions and the tops of edgings. Plain point d'Alengon is worked over and under in bars in a sort of herring-bone pattern, and a twisted stitch is made as seen in the engraving, by twist- ing the thread three times around each bar and knotting it at the angles as pictured. The effect is similar to one of the drawn-work hem-stitches. No. 20. POINT D'ANGLETERRE. This lace is worked as follows : Cover the space to be filled in with lines of thread about an eighth of an inch apart, then form cross-lines, inter- secting those already made and passing alternately under and over them ; work a rosette on every spot where two lines cross by working over and under the two lines about 16 times round ; then twist the thread twice round the ground-work thread, and begin to form another rosette at the crossing threads. No. 21. POINT DE FILLET AND POINT DE REPRISE. The net-work seen in this engraving is the first stitch mentioned, while the block-work is the second. Both are clearly illustrated and need no written explanation of the methods employed in mak- ing them. No. 22. POINT DE TULLE. This stitch is used as a ground-work for very fine work, and is worked in rows backward and forward in the same WITII -, - WIS ,- KI> ,,, RPAn No. ao.-Po.NT D'ANGLETERRE. No. 19. I'olNI I>'.\U.NO>\, WITH TWISTKD THREAD. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. stitch as open point d' Espagne. When this is completed the work is gone over a second time by inserting the needle under one twisted bar, bringing it out and inserting it at -f- and bringing it out again at the dot. This produces a close double twist which is very effective. No. 23. FAN LACE STITCH. Commence at the right side, and work as follows : First row. Make i button-hole stitch and miss the space of 8, which will leave a long loop. Second row. hole stitches in Third row. into the spaces and so decrease until only one be seen by re- lustration. POINT LACE foundation o f crossing them to squares. Work No. 21. POINT DE FILLET AND POINT DE REPRISE, No. 22. POINT DK TULLE. (For Directions see Page 12.) a button-hole stitch at each crossing to make it firm. Make 8 button- each loop. Make 7 stitches between the 8, one in every row remains, as may ferring to the il- No. 24. ROSE STITCH. Make a single threads, form the large Now begin at the top, at the right side and fill the first square with Brussels net stitches, finishing at the lower left corner. Fill eve;y alternate square in the same way as seen in the picture. Now cross the open squares diagonally with two threads, twisting each thread around the adjoining one as represented. (Carry one thread across all the squares from corner to corner first, then twist back, fastening at the corner started from ; cross these threads in the same way from the opposite direction). When twisting the thread back from the last set of crossings, make, a rosette at each center crossing as follows : Keep the space open with a pin and trace round it with a darning movement five or six times ; commence at the single thread and work a close button-hole stitch over the tracing entirely around, and then twist along the single thread to the center of the next square. This is a very effective design for spaces. WHEELS AND ROSETTES. (For Illustrations see next Page.) Wheels and rosettes are used to fill up spaces, or in combination, to form lace. No. 25. ROSETTE IN RAISED POINT D'ANGLETERRE. This rosette is worked in a man- ner similar to the English wheel, the difference being that after each stitch is passed round and under the bars, the thread is passed loosely around in the reverse direction, as shown in the illustration before proceed- ing to make the ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^__^^^^^^^_ next stitch. MECHLIN LACE one of the pret- No. 26. WHEELS. This is tiest stitches in also one of the work correctly. Work a number of button-hole stitch in one direc- at the opposite point lace, but most difficult to It is made thus : diagonal bars in on a single thread tion, then begin side in the same way, and work 5 No. 23. FAN LACE STITCH. No. 24. ROSE POINT LACE STITCH, or 6 stitches past the spot where the two lines cross ; pass the thread round the cross twice, under and over the thread to form a circle. Work in button-hole stitch half of one-quarter, make a dot by putting a fine pin in the loop in- stead of drawing the thread tight, and work 3 button-hole stitches in the loop held open by the pin, then take the pin out and continue as before. Beginners will do well to omit the THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. dot, leaving the loop only on the wheel. Mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizon- tal and parallel lines of thread. No. 27. ENGLISH WHEEL. This is worked in the same manner as Sorrento wheels, but instead of winding the thread over and under the bars, the needle is inserted under each bar, and brought out again between the thread and the last stitch; this produces a kind of but- ton-hole stitch, and gives the square, firm appearance possessed by this wheel. Nos. 28 AND 30. SORRENTO WHEEL. This is worked by fastening the thread in the pat- tern to be filled up, as indicated by the letters. Fasten it first to the place , then at place b, carrying it back to the middle of the first formed bar by winding it round ; fasten again at c, carry- ing it back again to the center by winding it around the bar, and so on to all the letters ; then work over and under the bars thus formed. No. 25. ROSETTE IN RAISED POINT D'ANGLETERRE. No. 26. MECHLIN LACE WHEELS. No. 27. ENGLISH WHEEL. No. 29. CLOSE ENGLISH be used in open spaces and the engraving. They are much work indeed, many of the lical with those used in drawn- WHEELS. These wheels may may be very easily made from like the wheels used in drawn stitches used in lace are iden- work. No. 28. SORRENTO WHEEL. No. 29. CLOSE ENGLISH WHEELS. (For Directions /or all of the above illutt, No. 30. SORRENTO WHEEL. ns see this Page and the preceding one.) THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. BARS AND PICOTS. The word " Bar " is stitches used to connect point lace, and the depends greatly upon and its suitability to the Nos. 31 AND 32. bars are much used in lace and are very effec- over a foundation or thread, and are twisted will more easily fall into By following the to 21, in No. 31, a easily filled, and por- ment applied to form shape desired. Upon point de Bruxelles the dot worked upon following ways : First Method. Make 5 stitches, i loose point needle under the loop as shown in point de 47, on page 18, and small, open loop as in point de Bruxelles Second Method. Pro- but instead of continu- work two or three tight formed and repeat. Work 4 tight point de loose, through which wind the thread three point (see No. 48, page tightly on this, and draw through the twists. This making the picot, and the real Spanish lace, shows how this stitch a regular ground-work, point ground-work bars form. No. 31. NET-WORK FOR WORKING KALEIGH BARS. applied to the many the various parts of beauty of the work the class of bar selected lace stitches used. RALEIGH BARS. These making Battenburg tive. They are worked net-work of coarse in places so that they the desired form, numbering from i square place may be tions of this arrange- ground-work of any this ground-work tight stitches are made, and these in one of the DOT OR PICOT. tight point de Bruxelles de Bruxelles ; pass the and over the thread, Venise bars at No. draw up, leaving a tatting. Work 5 tight stitches, and repeat, ceed as above directed, ing the tight stitches, stitches in the loop thus Third Method. Bruxelles stitches ; i pass the needle point, or four times round the 18), press the thumb the needle and thread is a quick mode of imitates most closely Illustration No. 48 may also be applied as but the beauty of old consists of variety in No. 32. RALEIGH BARS. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. NO. 33. 1 T A L I A N GROUND STITCH. Com- mence at the left side, and work as follows : first row. Make a loose button-hole stitch to form a loop a quarter of an inch wide, and then make a plain stitch into the loop to twist it, and continue to the end. No. 33. ITALIAN GROUND STITCH. No. 34. OPEN LACE BARS. Second row. Make two plain stitches into each loop, working back to the left. Third row. Repeat first row. No. 34. OPEN LACE BARS. Pass a thread from right to left. Make it firm by working a second stitch into the braid ; work 2 button-hole stitches on this line of thread, close together. Then work i button-hole stitch on the No - 35- SORRENTO BARS. lower thread at the left hand side, and draw it close to the 2 stitches on the line of thread. Miss the space of 2 and repeat. Nos. 35 AND 36. SORRENTO BARS. Each of the bars is worked from right to left, a straight thread being carried across and fastened securely with a stitch. The return consists of a simple twist under and over the straight thread ; three of these bars are usually placed close together at equal distances between the groups. The thread is sewn carefully over the braid in passing from one spot to another. Nos. 37 AND 38. VENETIAN BARS. The bar at No. 37 is so simple that it really needs no description. It is worked over two straight threads in reverse button-hole stitch. No. 38 shows the Venetian bar used as the veining of a leaf and worked upon Sorrento bars. No. 36. SORRENTO BARS No. 37. VENETIAN BARS. No. 38. VENETIAN BARS THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 39. POINT D'ANVERS BARS. Two upright bars form the foundation. The thread is carried over and under them as seen in the engraving, the side loops being added by the method depicted at the top of the point. The over and under work in point d'Anvers bars, without the side loops, is often used for plain bars for filling in odd spaces or wheels in heavy lace. No. 40. POINT GRECQUE BARS. These bars are so simply made that they are great favo- rites with beginners. They are begun at the top of the point, one straight thread being carried to the bottom ; then the cross bars are worked after the method seen in the illustration. No. 41. BARS OF POINT D'ANGLETERRE. These bars may be worked singly or to fill up a space, as in the illustration. Work rosettes as in point d'Angleterre ; when each rosette is finished twist the thread up the foundation thread to the top, pass it under the parallel center and over into the each side of each rosette, seen in the illustration. VENISE BARS (EDGED). and stretch a line of the braid, fastening it with de Bruxelles. Upon this tight point de Bruxelles third stitch work one No. 39. POINT D'ANVERS BARS. No. 40. POINT GRECQUE BARS. fasten with one stitch, then line running through the opposite braid ; repeat on inserting the threads as No. 42. POINT DE Begin at the right hand thread to the left side of one tight stitch of point line work a succession of stitches. Then in every point de Venise stitch. No. 43. D'ALENCON AND SORRENTO BARS. At Nos. 35 and 36 (page 16), a description of the method of making Sorrento bars is given, while at No. 19 (page 12), is a description of plain and fancy d'Alengon stitches. The two methods are combined in the work seen at No. 43 where the process is so clearly illustrated that a mere novice in lace-work could not fail to produce it perfectly. The combined stitch is used in filling in spaces, etc., etc. No. 41. BARS OF POINT D'ANGLETERRE. No. 42. POINT DE VENISE BARS (EDGED). No. 43. D'ALENCON AND SORRENTO BARS. 18 THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 44. PICOT OR DOT ON SORRENTO KAR. No. 44. PICOT OR DOT ON SORRENTO BAR. This dot is worked between rows of point de Bruxelles, 3 twisted stitches being worked into the loop left by the twisted thread ; this forms a picot resembling satin stitch in appearance. No. 45. D'ALENCON BARS. These bars are worked upon point de Bruxelles edging, and are only applied to the inner part of a pattern, never being used as ground-work bars. The thread is merely passed three times over and under the point de Bruxelles stitches, the length of these bars being regulated by the space to be filled ; when the third bar is completed a tight point de Bruxelles stitch fastens off the bars, and the thread is passed through the next point de Bruxelles stitch. No. 46. PLAIN VENETIAN BARS. These bars are worked so as to form squares, triangles, etc., in button-hole stitch upon a straight thread. The arrow jn the illustration points to the direction for working the next stitch. No. 47. DOTTED POINT DE VENISE BARS. These pretty bars are worked as follows : Stretch the thread from right to left ; on this work 5 tight stitches of point de Bruxelles, then insert a pin in this last stitch to hold it open and loose, pass the needle under the loose stitch and over the thread, as clearly shown in the illustration, and in this loop work 3 tight point de Bruxelles stitches. Then work 5 more stitches and repeat to end of row. The making of the dots or No. 45. D'ALENCON BARS. No. 46. PLAIN VENETIAN BARS. purls before mentioned as picots, is an important feature in bar work. All three names are employed for the same class of stitch. No. 48. THIRD METHOD OF MAKING PICOTS OR DOTS. This method has been fully described in connection with the making of Raleigh Bars at Nos. 31 and 32 (page 15), and requires no further description at this point. All dots and picots render work much 'more effective, and may be introduced at will by the worker. In making modern lace, the various kinds require appropriate braids. There are three classes of these braids those for Battenburg lace, those for plain Honiton and point, and those for the newest kind of lace, which is called the " Ideal Honiton." Each class of braids contains many de- signs and widths, and a large number of them, to- Xc. 47. DOTTED PUINT DE VENISE BARS. No. 48. THIRD METHOD OF MAKING PICOTS OR DOTS. gether with various cords, buttons and rings also used are illustrated on following pages. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. FANCY BRAIDS, GOR0S, RINGS AND BUTTON^. BRAIDS. THE braids, cords, rings and buttons illustrated upon the following two pages are all used in modern lace-making. They are all made of pure linen thread, and according to the fancy, the lace including them may be heavy or light. Royal Battenburg lace, as originated, was heavy in some cases massive ; but at present many lighter varieties are made, as will be sur- mised upon an inspection of the braids for its manufacture which are represented on the pages mentioned. As shown by No. i, these braids are about a third narrower than their actual width, and the picot edges numbered 16 and 17 are plain tatting made for the purpose, as the picot edges woven for lighter laces are not heavy enough for Battenburg lace. The numbers opposite the specimens are simply for convenience in ordering, if the order is sent the lady mentioned in another part of the book as the Pioneer of Lace-Making in America ; but in ordering from other lace-makers or manufacturers of braids, these numbers will be of little use, as every lace-maker or manufacturer has his or her own individual identifications for materials. Almost any of the braids, or those very similar, may be found at large fancy stores, but in buying them at such stores, be careful to get linen braids, as cotton braids do not make pretty lace, neither do they wear or launder well. In ordering these braids from other lace-makers or from fancy stores, it will be necessary to forward the illustration of the kind wanted, as the braids cannot be described with sufficient accuracy to obtain the desired varieties. Some are sold by the yard, some by the dozen yards and others by the piece, according to the position to be occupied in the work. The point, Honiton and Princess braids are represented full size, and are much daintier in texture than the Battenburg braids. Of this class of braids (see No. 2) are made the plain Honiton and point laces, and the braids for these two laces combined produce the Princess lace a creation whose beauty fully entitles it to its royal name. The braids seen at No. 3, page 21, are those which are used in making the new "Ideal Honiton " lace represented in another portion of the book. As illustrated, these braids are three-quarters of their proper widths, the top braid, No. 38, being just one inch wide in the fabric itself. The " Ideal Honiton " is one of the prettiest laces made, and is very appropriate for tidies, doilies, squares and scarfs. It is daintily secured to the finest of lawn in charming designs, and then the lawn is cut out from beneath it. (See doily, page 33). The cords seen at No. 4 are used in making Battenburg laces, and greatly increase the beauty of the work in addition to forming a distinctive species of lace. After the ordinary Bat- tenburg is worked with quite thick braid, the cord, in any size desired, is used to follow one edge of the design, as will be seen from illustrations upon other following pages. RINGS AND BUTTONS. The rings and buttons illustrated, are made throughout of linen thread in layers of button- hole stitches, and are sold by the dozen or gross. Buttons arranged as grapes (see No. 50, page 21), add greatly to the sumptuous effect of a heavy lace, and may be purchased already ar- 2 ranged as illustrated, or they may be arranged by the purchaser of a quantity of them. The lat- < ter method is a good plan if spaces are to be filled with clusters which must be of a certain shape. a*MMMQA^^**CMntf9*^*PWVW^^*V " ET^ No. i. BRAIDS USED IN MAKING BATTENBURG LACE. No. 2. BRAIDS USED IN MAKING HONITON, POINT AND PRINCESS LACR, THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. 39 40 42 43 44 45 46 47 5 4 3 21 No. 4. CORDS, RINGS AND BUTTONS USED IN MAK- ING BATTENBURG LACE. 49 No. 3. BRAIDS USED IN MAKING " IDEAL HONITON " LACE. DESIGN^, LACE ARTI(LE$, EDGING^, IN$ERTION$, eT(\, IN AODGRN LA(6. OF necessity, most of the designs and specimens given on this and the following pages are smaller than the articles they represent, but they afford a correct idea of the method of making and the beauty of, Modern Lace, and also its adaptability to dainty accessories of the toilet and the household. As before mentioned any design desired can be obtained from any lace-making establishment in any size, width or shape, according to the requirements of the article or lace to be made, and individual taste. Ingenious students will no doubt be able to adapt for themselves the designs offered, but it is not advisable for those who have no talent in the mat- ter of drawing or designing to undertake an elaborate adaptation, though they may easily accomplish a simple one. Besides, a professional designer will furnish the design for a mod- erate sum, perfectly outlined upon tracing cloth, with ink, and with the proper filling-in stitches perfectly delineated ; and if the student wishes it, will select the thread and braid appropriate for the design ; or the student may select the braid she fancies, and the designer will then select the thread suitable for the braid. DESIGN FOR A LACE HANDKERCHIEF. This design is suitable for point lace braid, but is of course very much reduced in size, in order to show the effect and arrangement of a design ready for working, as sent out from the lace-maker's. By a reference to the various stitches illustrated on preceding pages, the stitches shown in one corner of the design may be readily identified. The following engraving shows how braid is applied to a design before the stitches are begun. NQ. 2. METHOD OF PLACING BRAID UPON DESIGNS. This illustration shows the method of arranging braid upon designs for modern lace, and how, after the braid is basted along the pattern, the tracing cloth is basted to toile dree or to smooth, light brown wrapping paper to provide sufficient firmness for working. The following instructions apply particularly to engraving No. 2, but their principle should be observed and applied to any design decided upon, as good results in lace-making largely depend upon the arrangement of the braid. Run on a straight line of braid for the lower edge, with fine stitches, working as shown, from left to right. Take another piece of braid, or the other end of the same piece, and begin to lay the braid by " running" stitches in its center, keeping it as smooth and even as possible. The outer edge presents no difficulty, but the inner edge will not lie evenly without being drawn in by a needle and thread, as follows : Fasten whipping thread securely, and insert the needle in and out of the edge of the braid, as if for fine gathering; this thread when drawn up will keep the braid in its place. Two or three fastening-off stitches should be worked when each circle, half circle, or rounded curve of a pattern is finished, as the drawing or gath- ering thread remains in the work, and forms an important, though unseen, part of its structure. Before cutting off the braid run a few stitches across it to prevent it from widening. Joins should be avoided, but when a join is indispensable, stitch the braid together, open and turn back the ends, and stitch each portion clown separately. When passing the thread from one part to another, run it along the center of the braid, allowing the stitches to show as little as possible. In commencing, make a few stitches, leaving the end of the thread on the wrong side and cutting it off afterwards. In fastening off, make a tight button-hole stitch, run in three stitches, bring the needle out at the back, and cut off. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. i. DESIGN FOR A LACE HANDKERCHIEF. Xo. 2. METHOD OF PLACING BRAID UPON DESIGNS. Na. 3. ROYAL BATTENBURG LACE BUREAU-SCARF. The engraving on the opposite page represents the article above mentioned, and shows the effectiveness of this magnificent and durable lace. In actual size the scarf is about a yard and one-half long and one-half yard wide, and is made of a heavy Battenburg braid, having a fancy edge (See Nos. 5 or 7, on page 20) and cord, rings and buttons. The main part of the design is outlined with the braid, cord is used as a veining for the leaves, and the rings and buttons are introduced here and there over the surface, as seen in the picture. Raleigh bars with picots connect the border and center designs, while the palms along the border as well as other small spaces are filled in with point Turque and point de Grecque stitches. Sorrento bars are also used in some of the long leaf-like spaces, while in a few of the circular spaces point d'Angleterre rosettes are introduced. These rosettes are also frequently called " spiders," and are made, according to the space, large or small ; and according to the require- ments of the braid selected, heavy or light. For convenience in giving the name of this lace, the full title is rarely used " Battenburg Lace " being considered sufficient to identify the fabric from the other and lighter laces. Battenburg lace is made both heavy and light, according to personal taste or the object for which the lace is intended, but it was originally designed for heavy work only. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 3. ROYAL BATTENBURG LACE BUREAU-SCARF. N0. 4. POINT LACE DOILY FOR A TOILET CUSHION. This dainty doily may be made of the point lace braids illustrated at Nos. 30 and 31, to- gether with the picot edging No. 36, seen on page 20. In filling in the spaces, thread suitable for the braid is used, and the stitches are point de Valenciennes, point d'Espagne, Sorrento bars, point de Bruxelles, open rings and " spiders." As all of these stitches, with many others are illustrated in that section of this book devoted to stitches, it will be unnecessary to repeat the details for making, as they are fully given in the department mentioned. It will also be understood that most of the articles illustrated are not of full size, but in some instances are nearly so. The doily just described is illustrated about three-quarters of its actual size ; but by using a fine braid a doily of fairy-like texture, and just the size of the engraving may be produced. Any one accustomed to drawing may enlarge this or any of the designs given, but only clever fingers should try this experiment. No. 4. POINT LACK DOILY FOR A TOILET CUSHION. Me. 5. BATTENBURG EDGING', WITH CORD. This is a very elegant looking lace, though simply made after the regular Battenburg method. A plain braid (No. 10, page 20) is chosen to form the outlines, and after the stitches are filled in, cord of a suitable size is carried around the petals and foliage of the design, and rows of it are also used to indicate the vine, though the latter may be outlined with the tape and then with the cord. The petals of the blossoms are filled in in point de Bruxelles and point de Venise stitches, while point d'Espagne and point Brabangon are used for the foliage and vine. Point Grecque and d'Alengon bars are also used at the very heart of the blossom, and Raleigh net-work bars connect the design to the edge and are dotted here and there with " spiders." He. 6. BATTENBURG INSERTION, WITH CORD. This insertion matches the edging or lace above described, and is, therefore, made in exactly the same way, except that the design is double. Both the edging and insertion may be made of any width desired ; and the design will be found very pretty for fancy-edge or plain braids without the cord. Buttons or rings may be used in place of the " spiders " seen in the engravings if preferred. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING No. 5. BATTENBURG LACK, WITH CORD. No. 7. DESIGN FOR A HONITON LACE CAP. The design illustrated is, of necessity, much smaller than the cap it is intended for ; but the clever student may easily enlarge it to, or design one for herself of the size required. Lace- makers will duplicate designs in any size desired for a moderate sum, thus saving the amateur much work and at the same time putting her to little expense. The design here illustrated might also be used for handkerchief corners, scarf-ends, etc., etc. ; and any of the stitches illustrated on preceding pages may be selected for filling-in purposes. He. 5. DESIGN FOR A CORNER IN BATTENBURG, POINT, OR HONITON LACE. According to the article to be decorated, this design will be found appropriate for either of the braids used for the laces above mentioned. For table scarfs, tidies, heavy borders, etc., etc., the Battenburg braids should be selected ; but for handkerchiefs or doilies, the point or Honiton braids are the proper ones to choose for this design. Raleigh bars, Brussels point and- any other stitches preferred, may be used in filling in the spaces. When a design is procured from a lace-maker a portion of it is always marked with the stitches to be used ; but this is not an arbitrary matter, since the one who is to make the lace, may desire to and may insert other stitches in preference to those indicated. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 7. DESIGN FOR A HONITON LACE CAP. No. 8. DESIGN FOR A CORNER IN BATTENBURG, POINT, OR HONITON LACE. 32 THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. N6. 9. DOILY IN "IDEAL HONITON" LACE-WORK AND LINEN LAWN. One of the prettiest and the very newest of the modern laces is here illustrated. It is made of two of the many varieties of Honiton braids, wash-silk floss and linen lawn. The braid is, basted smoothly upon a square of lawn in the design illustrated (though individual taste will no doubt suggest many other equally pretty designs), after which the inner edges of the braid are permanently secured by a " short and long stitch." This is merely a short and long button- hole stitch reversed so that the cross loops are on the edge of the braid, while the stitches them selves extend beyond the braid, into the lawn, as seen in the engraving. Two short stitches alternate with single long ones throughout this part of the work. The outer edges are then fastened to the square by tiny button-hole scollops. Then the lawn is cut from under the squares formed by the braid, and the openings are button-holed through the lawn and braid so that the edges of the lawn will not fray. When this is done the spaces are filled in with fancy stitches, and when they are completed the lawn is cut away from the edge-scollops with a pair of fine sharp, scissors. In the doily illustrated " spiders " and point de Venise stitches are used for filling in the spaces. The floss used may be white or tinted, the latter washing as well as the white ; but as a rule, white or yellow flosses are selected in preference to other colors. " Ideal Honiton " scarfs, tidies, doilies, pillow shams, tray cloths, etc., etc., may be purchased with the braid already basted on in a pretty design and with the necessary threads or floss, or they may be designed at home, and by either method will result in a beautiful variety of modern lace. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 9. DOILY OF " IDEAL HONITON " LACK AND LINEN LAWN. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. NB. 10. DESIGN FOR A CORNER IN BATTENBURG LACE. Although this design is intended for Battenburg lace, and may be made up of any of the braids used for that kind of lace, it will also be found suitable for the finer point or Honiton braids for handkerchiefs, doilies, mats, etc., etc. As illustrated it would be suitable for a handkerchief. Enlarged and followed in Battenburg braid it would make a very handsome border for a table-scarf, curtains or draperies, or a substantial decoration for a gown of wash fabric or other goods. Raleigh bars, " spiders " and point de Bruxelles stitches are used for filling in, and a dainty picot edge is sewed to the outer line of the braid. Plain or fancy braid may be used for this design. If fancy loop-edge braid is selected, the picot edge will not be needed, the loops taking its place. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 10. DESIGN FOR A CORNER IN BATTENBURG LACE. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. NQ. 11. BATTEN BURG EDGING. The edging here illustrated is represented about one-third less than its actual width, but the design is so distinctly brought out that its beauty in any width may be readily conceived. It is formed of fancy Battenburg braid, but may be made from a plain variety if preferred. The design is known as the fern leaf and is easy to follow. Sorrento bars are used to connect the work, and "spiders" are made here and there to add variety to the work. Point de Bruxelles stitches are used to fill in the spaces at the sides of the leaves, and, with the fancy braid, pro- duce a very dainty, delicate effect. No. 12. BATTENBURG INSERTION. This insertion is made to match the edging seen above it, but is much wider than the edging, though formed of the same braid. Either design could be varied so as to result in an edging and insertion of equal width, or the edging could be arranged for an insertion, and the inser- tion illustrated changed into an edging. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 1 1. BATTENBURG EDGING. No. 12. BATTENBURG INSERTION. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. N0. 15. FINGER-BOWL DOILY OF PRINCESS LACE AND LINEN LAWN. Princess lace, (also known as Duchesse lace) as elsewhere mentioned, results from com- bining Honiton and point lace braids in one design ; and a charming specimen of this lovely lace is here illustrated. The doily is pictured only a trifle smaller than its actual size, and even in its full size is a very dainty affair. After the braids are basted along the design, they are then connected by twisted bars that are an adaptation from the point d'Alengon bars with the twisted stitch ; and the spaces are filled in in small d'Angleterre rosettes or " spiders." As few bars as possible are employed for the spiders, in order to produce a very delicate effect. The lawn center is added last. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 13. FINGER-BOWL DOILY OF PRINCESS LACE AND LINEN LAWN. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. He. 14. DESIGN FOR INSERTION, OR A CENTER-PIECE, IN BATTENBURG LACE. As suggested by the title, the design here presented may beused for insertion, or for a center to a table cloth or scarf, or a handsome spread. As represented it is intended for a center- piece, and the lace from which the engraving was made is about half-a-yard long and one- fourth of a yard wide. The ground-work is formed of Raleigh bars made with picots, and the loops of braid are filled in with twisted point d'Alengon bars. This center-piece is very pretty made of ribbon with silk thread for the bars, and in this event it may be made of any color desired, and added to a spread or scarf of surah silk or fine cloth, for which a border to match may be mad QUEEN ANNE TRAY-CLOTH OF BATTENBURG LACE AND LINEN. This pretty cloth is intended for a Queen Anne tray,' and its lace edges curve upward and just over the rim of the tray when it is laid upon it. The center is of fine table-linen, while the edge is formed of Battenburg braid, buttons and fancy stitches. As will be seen, the corner spaces are filled in with point d'Angleterre rosettes or " spiders , " the large border spaces and corresponding corner ones are filled in with picot bars, while the very fine work seen in the triangles and square spaces are point cle Venise stitches, and half-spiders are made in the other triangles. The narrow, straight inner border is composed of bars and tiny buttons arranged as represented. The cloth is hem-stitched before the braid is laid on, and the cor- ners are cut out from underneath after the work is otherwise completed. No. 14. DESIGN FOR INSERTION,OR A CENTER-PIECE, IN BATTEN BURG LACE. 3. ! 5 . QUEEN ANNE TRAY-CLOTH OF BATTENBURG LACE AND LINEN. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. He. 16. DESIGN FOR A BUTTERFLY IN POINT LACE. (FULL SIZE). Butterflies for the corners of handkerchiefs, scarf-ends and the points of caps or coiffures are favorite designs in point and Honiton laces. The one illustrated is very dainty and ex- ceedingly simple to execute. The upper portion of each wing has a point de reprise ground- work, but the solid sections are tiny spiders instead of point de reprise triangles. The outer tips of the wings are filled in with Raleigh bars, while similar bars, point de Bruxelles stitches and a point d'Angleterre rosette complete the lower wings. Any of the fine point or Honiton braids may be chosen for the outlining of the butterfly, and a fine over-and-over stitch or fine cord may be used to mark the lines extending from the head. N0. 17. DESIGN FOR A DOILY OR HANDKERCHIEF OF POINT OR HONITON LACE. This design, as illustrated, is of course too small for either a doily or handkerchief, but an expert lace-maker can enlarge it to any size desired ; and the clever amateur will find no diffi- culty in doing the same thing, as the outlines are not at all intricate, and may be easily fol- lowed. In sending for the braid for this, or similar designs, it is advisable to permit the lace- maker addressed to select them, and of course, the thread, since her long experience ena- bles her at once to correctly judge what materials are appropiate for the articles you wish to make, especially if she knows the size the article is desired to be. The stitches, as here indi- cated, are point d'Angleterre rosettes, and point de fillet, with small " spiders " on the latter. A dainty picot-braid edges the design. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. 4.-; No. 16. DESIGN FOR A BUTTERFLY IN POINT LACE. (FULL SIZE). No. 17. DESIGN FOR A DOILY OR HANDKERCHIEF OF POINT OR HONITON LACE. (HALF SIZE.) THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. N0. IS. "CARDINAL'S POINT" LACE. This engraving represents a modern adaptation of an ancient lace which may be made of fancy Battenburg braid and plain Raleigh bars. The design is not especially definite in its outlines, and may be imitated with any variations which may seem pleasing to the copyist. The picots are made after the method directed at the illustration of point de Venise bars in the department devoted to stitches. " Cardinal's point " of genuine make is of Italian origin, and in the earlier eras, was largely used for the decoration of church vestments and draperies. rfW^W^t THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. fclos. 19 and 20. BATTENBURG EDGING AND INSERTION, WITH CORD. These two engravings show a very pretty design for Battenburg lace made with a cord finish. The application of the cord has been fully described elsewhere, where a different design of the same kind of work is given. In the present instance the spaces are filled in with twisted bars, " spiders " and rosettes in point d'Angleterre. The specimens from which the engravings were made are a trifle wider than seen in the pictures ; but the width is a matter of indi- vidual taste, and also a result of the braid selected. A professional lace-maker will enlarge or adapt the design to accord with personal requirements. t x_^x-rx*V* THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 19. BATTENBURG EDGING, WITH CORD. No. 20. BATTENBURG INSERTION, WITH CORD. NG. 21. TAPE-GUIPURE DESIGN, FOUND IN AN OLD CHURCH. The design here illustrated was found in the old church of Santa Margherita, in Italy. It was drawn on parchment,, and was undoubtedly intended as a design -for altar lace. It was mentioned in a book of accounts for the year 1592, found in the archives of the church des- ignated and is therefore of antique origin; but it may be easily adapted to modern methods of lace-making, and could be appropriately filled in with either Italian or Genoa lace stitches or with a combination of both, and twisted bars. Done with fancy Battenburg braid, Jt would be quite similar in effect to the " Cardinal's Point " illustrated on another page. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 21. TAPE-GUIPURE DESIGN, FOUND IN AN OLD CHURCH. Na. 22. BATTENBURG CHURCH LACE. The engraving opposite illustrates a magnificent specimen of Modern Church Lace made of Battenburg braid with a limited introduction of Honiton braid. The specimen itself is considerably wider than represented, but as the width is a matter of individual taste, the engraving will serve as a design for a narrow church lace. Sorrento bars are used to connect the braids and to form foundations for the spiders or rosettes here and there inserted, and the lace is delicately bordered with a dainty picot-braid. The fancy stitches in the main portions of the cross are point de Valenciennes, while those in the minor sections are point de Bruxelles. Point de fillet is used for the central portion of the large T-shaped symbol, while the stitch forming the other symbol is one never used except for church lace, and consists of two or three sets of fine stitches so interlaced as to seem to form one solid stitch. In making church lace any insignia desired can be introduced by a professional designer an accomplishment that is usually beyond the inventive powers of the novice in lace-making. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 22. BATTEN BURG CHURCH LACE. 52 THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. Me. 25. ENGLISH NEEDLE-POINT. This is a very handsome design combining the lily and the rose. The foundation work is made with unbleached linen braid having an ornamental edge, and the filling-in is done with fine and coarse linen thread in various stitches. Raleigh bars with picots define the upper edge of the edging, and Sorrento bars on which buttons are worked form the ground work. Point de Grecque, point d'Angleterre, d'Alengon bars plain and twisted, point de Bruxelles and " spiders " are also used in making this lace, as will be seen from a close inspection of the engraving. This specimen of lace is very handsome when developed in black silk braids and silk thread, for black costumes. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 23. ENGLISH NEEDLE-POINT. Ns. 24. PUNCH-GLASS DOILY OF POINT LACE AND LAWN. As represented this doily is about three-fourths of its actual size. It is made of fine linen lawn, and a set generally comprises a dozen. Fine point lace braid is used to outline the design, and then rosettes in point d'Angleterre, and " spiders " or small rosettes are made in the openings as represented. The alternate outer scallops are filled in with point cle Bruxelles stitches, and a dainty picot-braid is added to the edge by the usual over-and-over stitch. NQ. 25. POINT LACE COLLAR AND CUFF. A very handsome point lace set is here illustrated, and may be easily followed by an expert lace-maker ; but it will be wiser for the novice to obtain a pattern or design of the shape and size desired, from a professional lace-maker. Point de Grecque, point de Bruxelles, point de Venise, Sorrento bars, and rosettes and rings are all employed in carrying out this design. As elsewhere mentioned, any fine stitch preferred may be used for filling-in purposes when those suggested or marked out upon a design are not admired. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 24. PUNCH-GLASS DOILY OF POINT LACE AND LAWN No. 25. POINT LACE COLLAR AND CUFF. Na. 26. DESIGN FOR TABLE SCARF IN BATTENBURG LACE. The scarf-end from which this design was copied is about ten inches deep, and it is about fourteen or fifteen inches wide. It will be seen from these dimensions, that it is impossible to produce a full-size design of it on these pages, but one of any size desired may be obtained at any lace-makers ; or, a clever student of lace-making may enlarge the design to suit her own requirements. According to the size of the scarf-end, wide or narrow braid must be selected, with thread to correspond. The stitches used in filling in are point de fillet, point de Bruxelles and point d'Angleterre, and Raleigh, Sorrento and d'Alen^on bars, and rosettes and " spiders." N0. 27. APPLE DESIGN FOR A CORNER IN BATTENBURG LACE. This design is for the corner of a scarf, spread, tidy or pillow-sham and is very popular, as it is effective though simply made. The fine stitches are point de Bruxelles, while the others are Raleigh, Sorrento and point Grecque bars. Plain or fancy braid, or a combination of both may be used in this design with a charming effect. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 26. DESIGN FOR A TABLE SCARF IN BATTENBURG LACE. No . 27. APPLE DESIGN FOR A CORNER IN BATTENBURG LACE. 58 THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 28. ROMAN PUNCH-CLASS DOILY IN POINT LACE. Doilies of this description are generally made about four inches square. The engraving opposite pictures the doily mentioned as somewhat smaller, but the design is sufficiently large to enable the student to make her doilies as large as she desires them to be, as it easy to fol- low. The corner spaces are filled in with twisted bars and rings worked at the same time ; but rosettes or spiders may be worked in place of the rings if preferred. The corner spaces are filled in in point Brabanc.on, and for those at each side point de Bruxelles is used. The doily is edged with a fine picot-braid that finishes it daintily, and very sheer linen lawn is used for the center. He. 29. MODERN RUSSIAN LACE. The design illustrated may be followed in Battenburg braid or plain lace tape, and any of the fancy stitches mentioned and described among the rosettes, bars and picots may be em- ployed for filling-in purposes. Cream white or unbleached braids or tapes are prettier for Russian lace than pure white. Russian lace is a very durable as well as effective trimming for household draperies, and also for gowns of wash fabrics or those of cotton fabrics which will not need renovating. No. 28. ROMAN PUNCH-GLASS DOILY IN POINT LACE. ^ . 29. MODERN RUSSIAN LACE. He. 30. RUSSIAN LACE. This engraving represents a specimen of genuine Russian lace made of fine braid, and wrought with bars similar to Raleigh bars, except that they have no picots. The Russians have always been noted for their exquisite needle-work, but as a nation they have never had any established lace manufactory. The workers of the small amount of lace produced are scattered about at their own houses, and many of them are poor ladies of gentle birth. Most of the laces, however, are made by the peasantry, who bring them to St. Petersburg where sale for them is found. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 30. RUSSIAN LACE. BOW-KNOT DESIGN FOR MODERN LACE. This fashionable design may be developed in various widths and braids as an insertion, or as an applique* on lawn. The ground-work may be formed of Raleigh bars, or of twisted bars made like the net-work for Raleigh bars. The loops of the bows may be filled in with point de Brux- elles or any fine stitch preferred. The design is pretty for bordering table scarfs, tidies, valances and curtains when heavy braids are selected. The finer braids render the design appropriate for handkerchiefs and dainty trimming laces. He. 32. PRINCESS LACE DOILY DESIGN. The design here illustrated may be enlarged or simplified to please individual taste, and it may be made of Honiton braid as well as point. The connecting stitches may be point de Bruxelles, Raleigh and Sorrento bars, "spiders" or any of the fine stitches described and illustrated in the department devoted to stitches. A dainty picot braid follows the outer edge of the doily. This design, enlarged sufficiently, would form an elegant pattern for a lace handkerchief. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 31. BOW-KNOT DESIGN FOR MODERN LACE. No. 32. PRINCESS LACE DOILY DESIGN. 04 THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. fek 33. ALTAR LACE (BATTEN BURG). This very elegant specimen of altar lace is, in reality, about nine or ten inches deep ; but, for want of space the engraving represents it as only about half as wide. The design, however, is perfect in detail, and the illustration fully displays its effectiveness, and discloses the variety of connecting and filling-in stitches used. A delicate Battenburg braid is chosen for the founda- tion, and in addition to regular lace stitches, those from drawn work are here and there inter- spersed. The cross is filled in in point de Venise, (or side stitch as it is sometimes called), and the same stitch is seen in the central design at each side of the cross. Drawn-work effects are seen also in these central figures and along the borders. Sorrento bars are here made and knotted at the center like drawn strands, or are connected by rosettes or "spiders" made in drawn-work style. At the center of the cross is a large drawn-work wheel, while small Maltese crosses and half-crosses are made elsewhere in the work by the drawn-work method, Sorrento bars taking the place of the usual strands. The central section of the border at the right of the cross is done in point de Bruxelles which is afterward button-holed as in bar-work, and a button-hole picot edge follows the lower outlines of the pattern. Raleigh bars with picots form the connecting ground-work throughout the work. This beautiful specimen shows two distinct methods of filling in the sections between the crosses. Either may be used alone, or the two may be used alternately with the crosses. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 34. BATTENBURG OR POINT LACE COLLAR AND CUFF. These engravings represent a very graceful design for a lace collar and cuffs. As suggested in the title, the set may be made of point or Battenburg braid. The leaf-points are all filled in with d'Alenc,on bars in the twisted stitch, while the centers are completed with rosettes or small open " spiders," and the latter are distributed elsewhere as will be seen by inspecting the en- graving. Point cle Grecque is also introduced into some of the spaces, and Raleigh bars are used for the ground-work. Any of the stitches previously described may be used in making such a collar if those mentioned are not admired ; and the addition of buttons or rings will improve the work greatly. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 34. BATTENBURG OR POINT LACE COLLAR AND CUFF. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. NO. 35. FLOUNCE IN BATTENBURG LACE. A very elegant flounce of Battenburg lace may be made after the design represented on the opposite page. The picture shows the flounce just one-half its actual width ; but even this width would be very handsome as a band for the bottom of a dress. By a close inspection of the stitches seen and a reference to these illustrated in the department devoted to stitches, the various kinds here used may be easily identified. They consist of point de Venise, point de Bruxelles, Sorrento and Alenc,on bars and " spiders." A fine picot braid edges each side of the flounce. The design can be obtained in any width desired from a reliable lace-maker. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. 35. FLOUNCE IN BATTENBURG LACE (ONE-HALF THE ACTUAL WIDTH). THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. NQ. 56. BUTTERFLY DESIGN FOR POINT LACE. This design is for point lace braid, and is very easily made. Fancy bars made after an adaptation from the d'Alen9on bars, and point de Venise stitches are used for filling in. The butterfly may be used as a portion of an edging design, or as a corner or center for any small article to be decorated. The lines extending from the head are made with a fine over-and-over stitch, or a fine cord. No. 37. VENETIAN POINT LACE. This is a design containing many of the features of antique lace patterns, and is made of narrow tape and fine cord combined with fancy stitches. The lace from which the engraving is made is about twice as wide as the picture represents it, but as the pattern differs in its sections for several inches at a time, the design could not be given full size. It will be seen that in the section illustrated no two figures are alike. The filling-in stitches consist of com- binations and groupings of many of the stitches previously illustrated and described. NG. 38. BUTTERFLY DESIGN FOR FINE BATTENBURG LACE. This design, developed in Battenburg lace with d'Alen9on and Sorrento bars and small "spiders " or dots, makes a pretty ornament for centers or corters, or is effective when intro- duced as a part of an edging design. Point or Honiton braids may also be made up by this design. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. 71 V v ,,^'" No. 36. BUTTERFLY DESIGN FOR POINT LACE. No. 37. VENETIAN POINT LACE. No. 38. BUTTERFLY DESIGN FOR FINE BATTENBURG LACE. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. NG. 39. DESIGN FOR INSERTION. A very pretty design for insertion is here given. The braid may be basted as seen in the picture, and then the bars may be made of single threads, and of single threads overwrought with button-hole stitches. Or, any of the bars or other stitches described, may be used to con- nect the braid and fill in the spaces. Tiny " spiders " are already used to fill in the circles. Na. 40. DESIGN FOR A LACE BORDER AND CORNER. A great deal must be left to the ingenuity of the worker in filling in this design, which is not of the orthodox modern variety but may be readily transformed into that class by an adaptation of modern stitches. With the methods of the latter well mastered, the worker will have no trouble in bringing out the design just as it is illustrated ; but she may also by the exercise of a little judgment and taste substitute many other pretty filling-in stitches for those here pic- tured. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 39. DESIGN FOR INSERTION. No. 40. DESIGN FOR A LACE BORDER AND CORNER. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. N8. 41. DESIGN FOR A BUTTERFLY IN POINT LACE. Another butterfly design is here given for point lace, though it may also be developed in in a larger size in Battenburg braid for decorative purposes. The filling-in stitches are d'Alenson and Raleigh bars, point de Venise and point de Bruxelles, and point d'Angleterre rosettes. No. 42. ITALIAN LACE. This lace is of a conventional Italian pattern, and is filled in with the Italian lace and ground- stitches, and Sorrento bars. The lower edge is very daintily completed with a button-hole effect. The design is simple, elegant, and popular, and may be wrought in Battenburg or the finer braids, and in any width desired, the braid selected and the width decided upon deter- mining the use to which the lace shall be put. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING No. 41. DESIGN FOR A BUTTERFLY IN POINT LACE. No. 42. ITALIAN LACE (HALF SIZE). THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 43. MODERN VENETIAN POINT. The engraving shows a reduced representation of a very elegant specimen of modern lace the reduction in size being necessary in order to present the whole design. In making the lace, narrow braid and cord are used for the foundation of the design, and then the filling-in stitches are made and at the same time rings and buttons and bars and picots are introduced. Some of the filling-in stitches are combinations as in the figures with very open bars where point d'Espagne and point Brabangon are combined, and at the middle section of the central figure where point de Valenciennes and point Brabangon are combined. Other stitches used are d'Alengon bars, Raleigh bars, church stitch, point de Bruxelles, " spiders," Sorrento bars, and picots. The greater the variety in the filling-in stitches, the more beautiful the lace. A picot edge finishes the lace in a very dainty manner along its lower outline, while a cord forms the upper edge. Ne. 45. DESIGN FOR MODERN LACE. This design may be made up in Battenburg braid, or of point or Honiton braid according to the texture of the lace desired. In making it for garments or articles that are to be renovated occasionally, the Battenburg braids are advisable ; but for daintier uses, point or Honiton may be chosen. The Raleigh-bar stitch, point de Bruxelles, and " spiders " may be used in follow- ing the outlines given for stitches. He. 44. CORNER IN MODERN LACE. The suggestions given above will also apply to this design, which may be used for a table spread, or a handkerchief, according to the braid selected. As illustrated, the design is of pretty dimensions for a doily or a toilet-cushion cover, or for a handkerchief. All of the bar work seen may be done with single threads instead of the complete Raleigh method, and the rosettes or " spiders " may be larger or smaller as preferred. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 44. DESIGN FOR MODERN LACE. No. 45. CORNER IN MODERN LACE. Ne. 46. PILLOW-SHAM OF BATTENBURG LACE AND LINEN. A very elaborate pillow-sham is here illustrated. It is made of Battenburg braid and appro- priate thread, together with an intermingling of rings, and forms one of the most elegant appointments of a handsomely furnished bed-room. The pattern is very distinct and is called the " rose and leaf " design. The ground-work is formed of rings and Raleigh bars, while the centers of the roses and their leaves are filled in in various fancy stitches which include the crosses and rosettes used in drawn-work, Sorrento bars, points de Venise and Bruxelles, d'Alen. on bars, etc., etc. If desired the linen square may be made larger, and the lace but one row of blossoms in width. The square is made of the finest household linen and is completed with a broad hem-stitched hem before the lace is added. The lace design may be obtained in any width desired by sending to a professional lace-maker ; or, a clever student may be able to en- large the design herself. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 46. PILLOW-SHAM OF BATTENBURG LACE AND LINEN. N0. 47. DESIGN FOR PRINCESS OR DUCHESSE LACE COLLAR AND CUFFS. Although this design is represented very small, it is sufficiently clear to convey a good idea of its outlines, and enable a student of average ability to adapt it to collar and cuffs of any size desired. Raleigh bars are used in connecting the various portions of the braids, while any of the fine stitches preferred may be chosen to fill in around the loops of the blossoms and foliage. A fine picot braid finishes the edge. NG. 48. ENGLISH NEEDLE-POINT LACE. This engraving illustrates a very beautiful specimen of modern-point lace in a design com- bining the lily and the rose. Raleigh bars and buttons render the heavy part of the work effective, while the daintier point stitches and bars are used to fill in the floral sections coarse and fine thread being used in the work. This lace, like any of the varieties now fashionable maybe made wide or narrow, or fine or coarse by designs furnished as required by lace-makers in general ; and the patterns may also be developed in silk or ribbon needle-point, which is a style of ornamentation appearing extensively as a decoration for scarfs, piano and table covers, mantel valences, etc., etc. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. LACE COLLAR AND CUFFS. No. 48. ENGLISH NEEDLE-POINT LACE. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. NG. 49. ROYAL BATTENBURG LACE. This design was among the first ones of this lace to appear, and is fully entitled to its royal name. Fancy Battenburg braid was selected for the foundation, and various stitches chosen for filling-in purposes. Among the stitches are point de Bruxelles, made similarly to the Italian lace stitch, point de fillet, plain Raleigh bars, point d'Alenc.on, rosettes, rings and point de Grecque. The central figure conveys a hint of the outlines of the royal crown, and the lace is really sumptuous in design and texture. In 1883, Mrs. Grace McCormick, the originator of the design and lace \vas awarded a diploma for her work which was forwarded from Washington, where she applied for a patent for her specimens of Royal Battenburg lace, of which this is one. No. 49. ROYAL BATTENBURG LACE. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. N0. 50. ROMAN LACE (CORAL PATTERN). The design here given is for a lappet or scarf-end, and will afford a suggestion for the mak- ing of larger articles or edging in similar arrangements of braid. It will be observed that the braid forms irregular lines that recall the branchings of coral, and it will be a very easy matter for an amateur lace-maker to similarly arrange* her braid for any purpose she desires. Fine Raleigh bars form the connecting work, and a button-hole picot-finish is made along the edge of the braid which forms the border. In making an edging, a definite outline could be kept for the lower edge, and above this an irregular or indefinite outline arranged. r THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. 87 No. 50. ROMAN LACE (CORAL PATTERN). Ha. 51. TIDY OF BATTENBURG LACE. The tidy here illustrated is made entirely of Battenburg lace, and is a beautiful specimen of this kind of work. The border design is the same as the one previously described for a pillow- sham, except that but one row of the blossoms and foliage is used. The center is composed of rows of braid crossed to form squares or open spaces that are filled in with rosettes in point d'Angleterre. This center is attached to the braid at the inner edge of the border by a series of bars arranged in d'Alengon style and then wrought with the thread after the method used in d'Anvers bars. This tidy, enlarged, forms an elegant design for a pillow-sham. When laid over a tinted silk spread or pillow, a sham of this design shows its full beauty. When the braid is basted on in the outlines desired, the remainder of the work will be a pleasing pastime, as none of it is so tine as to require very close attention. 51. TIDY OF BATTENBURG LACE. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 52. MODERN LACE. A handsome specimen of lace is here illustrated. It will be observed that the braid from which it is made is woven like fine binding braid, and in this respect differs from any of the lace-braids herein illustrated. It will also be seen that no two figures of the design are alike, and that various stitches are used in completing them, many being combinations of or adaptations from the stitches illustrated at the beginning of this pamphlet. The engraving is sufficiently plain to enable the worker to decide which stitches are used alone or in combina- tion, and to guide her correctly in their application. The picot-edge is done in point de Venise stitch. He. 53. MODERN-POINT LACE EDGING. This is an easy design to follow and is simply made. Heavy Sorrento bars with picot loops form the ground-work, while the filling-in stitches are of the same class done in fine thread in regular squares and also a combination of point de fillet and point de Grecque. A dainty picot-finish is added at the lower edge. This edging is pretty for bordering draperies or deco- rating dresses, and may be made as fine or as coarse as desired. r W THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 54. SQUARE IN MODERN-POINT LACE. In this design will be observed a favorite combination the rose and the butterfly. Close inspection will also disclose that the filling-in stitches are of a diverse character, and that to this diversification much of the beauty of the work is due. As most of the stitches are easily recognized, and as the copyist can easily adapt methods for the combinations seen, it will not be necessary to definitely describe them. The square may be used for a scarf-end in connection with the edging No. 53 seen on page 91, if the braid selected is sufficiently fine. When coarser braid is chosen, the square will be pretty for doilies, tidies or the center of a table spread. The design may be daintily made up of ribbon, with silk for the stitches. In this event it may be set into a scarf or drapery of China or Surah silk with charming results. %-^vrvwww THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. No. 54. SQUARE IN MODERN-POINT LACE. He. 55. LOUIS XIV. CURTAIN-LACE. This is a very popular decoration for curtains and vestibule doors and is made of heavy dcru 01 white net and braid. The design selected is generally a border with a corner piece, and sometimes a center piece. The specimen here given is simply a square of the net deco- rated as illustrated to convey an idea of this at present fashionable curtain lace. The design is first traced on tracing cloth that is then underlaid with brown paper to hold it stiffly in place. The net is then laid over this and smoothly basted down so that the tracing shows through plainly. Then dcru or white Battenburg braid is used to follow the design, and is shaped into the leaves and flowers seen, rings being used for the centers of the blossoms and e'cru or white cord for the stems. The net is cut from under the rings at the centers of the large roses, and each opening is filled in with point de fillet and English wheels. The effect is very rich and the work is not difficult to do. When a curtain is thus embroidered or decorated with braid, it is bordered the same as the square illustrated, or upon that principle, with rows and points of Battenburg braid. Ribbon is often used in this way for tidies, bureau scarfs and various other little household decorations, and in this event the flower and foliage tints may be carried out in the design. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. 95 No. 55. Louis XIV. CURTAIN-LACE. THE ART OF MODERN LACE-MAKING. DftRNED-NET S(ftRF^, rtER(HieF$, TlDl6$, iNseRTiON$, et(., eT(., ^ITH DESIGNS FOR, THE