.,.. ■ 1^- 1 jr-#^ .^Vi ' ■ rm'tim W rf». ,xvv» r5V^« ^T*»i .\Xsv. irv^* i^/^ .■^^.-.■^ f THE ROBERT E. COWAN COLLECTION I'RESKNTlCn TO Tin; UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA C. P. HUNTINGTON JUNE, 18Q7. J 1 Recession \\o70 / A / Class No tJTtatrx. ^cli:lW'^%&r^ac<^'^■W1P^.^^^^^T^a#»^arr<>^^^Dc^:Ll<»->^ l£^*kJ'-=^-jC ijSjflB ^SjS^ Ki^^ fSS ^ B E ^ ^^ ^^ ^ ^ ^^ |^^^5 ^ V 0, 7* it I THRILLING /// EXPERIENCE WIMg^^ BORDER, — — ///M^^f/. ILLUSTRATED. • • • • 2D ^!^ "•* Vividly written in ONE. ^ ^ Utah, Arizona, California, Nevada, Idaho, Montana, Washington, Oregon, Alaska. By- NO OTHER ^oEO.w.^ BOOK LIKE THIS !^r/7MC£ «v ^1 ( l/Ul/^^^^-zA^ /L-v^ ,2^-1,^— u-^ CU, ' ' " I -M^^ THK STRUGGLES FOR LIFE AND HOME IN THE North -West. BY A PIONEER HOMEBUILDER. LIFE, 1865-1889. Geo. W. Kranck. NEW YORK: I. GoLDMANN, Steam Printer, 7, 9 & u New Chambers St. fe^ 1890. -^^■^' ^t^ 'J 01 ^ I Ml Copyright, 1890, by GEO. W. FRANCE. PREKACB. I do not claim for this book any literary merit, except tliat borrowed or quoted from others, for, when Gushing could mark 5000 mistakes in Webster's Unabridged Dictionary (say- ing that for the size of the book it had as few errors as could be expected), and when newspaper and other writers have to browse so largely from the genius and labor of others, that editorials are frequently copied bodily as their own (so that it is often difficult to know who produced some piece of intellect- ual work and the gems of genius that they print), it would therefore be presumptuous for an unlettered homebuilder on the border, alone to attempt anything very fine and glittering in building his book ; and though the most practical, valuable and expensive education in the world is that gotten by struggling hard and long against fiends and fate, for life, liberty and home, such a life permits of no leisure or condition of the mind for the culture of any of its latent literary genius. While, the mere kid-gloved hired critic will smile over the stacks of humbug effusions of his professional brethren, he will sneer at this ill-favored thing ; and ring-black-legs will detest it, as they do truth itself and equality before the law. But when my case was so cruelly lied about and I was so persistently and corruptly held in a secret bastile to be tortured, looted and maligned, (as I found it to be the case with others also), and was always denied any hearing, or defense, or trial, I was left no alternative by the mongrel gang, but was forced to write my life, and theirs also —wherein it imperils the life, liberty and homes of the people. (3) 4 Preface. As to its truth, every point and assertion of mine is (in one place and another) shown to be so very evidently and positively true, that none but brazen members or tools of the black con- spiracy will ever question it. In the language of Josephus : "Some apply themselves to this part of learning to show their great skill in composition, and that they may therein acquire a reputation for speaking finely ; others there are who of necessity and by force are driven to write history, because they were concerned in the facts, and so cannot excuse tliemselves from committing them to writing for the advantage of posterity. Nay, there are not a few who are induced to draw their historical facts out of darkness into light, and to produce them for the benefit of the public, on account of the great importance of the facts them- selves with which they have been concerned .... I was forced to give the history of it because I saw that others perverted the truth of those actions in their writings. However, I will not go to the other extreme out of opposition to those men who extol the oppressors, nor will I determine to raise the actions of my own too high ; but I will prosecute the actions of both parties with accuracy. Yet shall I suit my language to the passions I am under, as to the affairs I describe, and must be allowed to indulge in some lamentations upon the miseries undergone by my own "But if any one makes an unjust accusation against me when I speak so passionately about the tyrants, or the robbers, or sorely bewail the misfortune of our country, let him indulge my affections herein .... Because it had come to pass, that we had arrived at a higher degree of felicity than others, and yet at last fell into the sorest calamities again .... But if any one be inflexible in his censures of me, let him attribute the facts themselves to the historical part, and the lamentations to the writer himself only And I have written it down for the sake Preface. 5 of those that love truth, but not for those that please them- selves with fictitious relations." " Yes, I have lost the loved, the dear ! Yes, I have wept the bitter tear ! Have passed misfortune's darkest hour — Have known and felt the Tempter's power — Have bowed to scorn, unloved, alone, Longing for Fi'iendship's cheering tone ! Unhappiness ! I know thee, then — So can I help my fellow-men ! — Public Opinion. G. W. K. "If all the scoundrels who now bask in the smiles of San Francisco society were to receive their just deserts for their infamous deeds, the accommodations at San Quentin and Folsom would be entirely too re- stricted. We have before taken occasion to define the crime of "personal jour- nalism." It is never perpetrated except against a rich scoundrel. A journal may with perfect safety hold up to scorn the actions of water front biimmers, or the despised hoodlum. Turn to your paper any morning and evening and see how oftsn crime in low places is exposed and made odious in a hundred different ways. Does any one suppose that distinguished lawyers would be found to rail at the practice so long as it was confined within these limits? Bah! The inquiry excites a smile of derision. Any Tom, Dick or Harry in the city might be mentioned, and columns of contempt and derision hurled at them without a protest being raised. But, as we have said before, let a man with a million or two of money commit the most unpardonable outrages, and be referred to ever so gently, and the pack start out in full ciy yelping "personal journalism. " Without personal journalism vice and roguery would be sure to get the upper hand in modern times. Personal journalism is the bulwark reared against its encroachment. Personal journahsm is only another term for the "rascal's scourge." It will be a sorry day for society if the assassin's pistol or the rich man's coin ever prove effective enough to stop the hand engaged in the work of making crime odious by pointing out to the public their enemies. Crime cannot be checked with a parable. Its perpetrators must be held up to i^ublic scorn. " San Francisco ' 'Chronicle.^' "Walla Walla, Washington, Nov. 25th, 1889. TO WHOM IT 3IAY CONCERN:— " I have been personally acquainted with 3Ir. Geo. W. France for many years, and hioiv his general reputation and standing in this State to he good, and ivhile it is true that he was at one time convicted of murder in the second degree, it is now generally believed that he committed the homicide in necessary self-defence, and is innocent of any crime whaiever. I faJce pleasure in bear- ing testimony to his uniform good character, both before and since this imfortunate occurrence, as an honest, upright, orderly and laiv-abiding citizen. THOS. H. BRENTS." [Representative in Congress for two terms from Wasliiugtou Teirilorv ] (7) UNIVERSITY LIST OK ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. Author's Portrait -, - Frontispiece. Oil Works ----... 29 View of Salt Lake City, Utah - - - 43 The Mormon Temple, Etc. - - - - - 49 Pyramid Lake, Utah - - - - - 59 Los Angeles, Cal. , from the Hill - - 67 Mexican Herder ... - - . 69 Main Street from Temple Block, Los Angeles - - 71 Chinese Quarter, Interior of Chinese Temple (Josh House), Los Angeles - - - 73 Tropical Plants and Historical Buildings - - 75 Pi-Ute Indian Camp, Nevada . ... 79 A Canyon - - - - - - - 101 Shoshore Falls, Snake River, Idaho, 260 Feet High 103 "I Hauled Wood and Rails from the Blue Mountains" 113 Making Clapboards . . . . . 117 Multnoma Falls, Columbia River, Oregon - - 125 My First Outfit - - - - - - 131 My First House - - - - - - 139 Land Office Receipt . . . . . 144 United States Land Patent .... 149 An Indian Village - - - - - 157 An Indian Massacre - - - - - 179 School Land Lease ----- 21G School Land Receipt - - - - - 217 Defending My Life and Home - - - - 233 The Seatco Bastile - - - - - 249 A Sick Prisoner ------ 271 Prisoners at the Bastile Going to Work — Drunken Guard 277- Penalty for Exposing the Tortures of the Secret Bastile - - - - - - 283 City of Sitka, Alaska ----- 459 COKTKNTS. CHAPTER I. Striking out from home when a boy, — My object. — Ho ! For the Oil Regions in Pennsylvania. — My Chum. — Great Excitement. — Oil City flooded. — "Coal Oil Johnny." — Tools, etc., used iu bor- ing for oil. — All about finding oil. — And what the oil is. — My ex- perience for about a year. CHAPTER II. Leaving the OH Regions for a good time " Out West." — A period of travel, etc., of four-and-a-half months to the Missouri River — Then crossing the plains to Salt Lake with wagon train in 60 days. — Our train, etc.; my team, etc.; first camp in a storm. — Fording the Platte river with its quicksand bottom ; big teams, etc. My first drink ; delusion in distance ; game, etc. — Freighting; life and government on the plains. — A comprehensive account of the region from the Missoui-i River to Salt Lake Valley. CHAPTER HI. Salt Lake City and Valley. — Salt Lake ; cUmate and bathing. — Remained a month. — Then made a trip of a month on the plains. Caught in a blizzard. — Sixty-two frozen mules for breakfast, Oct. 14th. — A rough tramp in the snow, 180 miles back to Salt Lake. — Dreaming of home. — As to the hardships of trains snow-bound in the mountains. - Work for a Mormon dignitary. — The "Mighty Host of Ziou." — How they whipped Johnson's U. S. Army in 1861, etc., etc. — Mountain Meadow massacre, etc., etc. — Leave Salt Lake on horse-back for St. George, 350 miles south; takes a mouth. — Mormon farms and villages ; their system of settlement, etc. — CHmate, soil, mountains, etc. — A month in St. George as "Dodge's Clerk." — On an Indian raid. — Made a trip to the extreme southern settlements. — What for?— Cotton country.— Mountain of rock salt.— A true, comprehensive description of the Mormons; how they live and deal with each other and with Gentiles; their religion and government; as they really are iu practice; their virtues, crimes and danger. (11) 12 Contents. CHAPTER IV. Travelers I met in Utah.— Leave Utah for the Los Angeles, Cal., country.— The company I travel with. — Danites.— The In- dians on the road. — A Mormon "miracle." — Indian dialect. — Sand storm. A mine in the desert.— The region from St. George to California. — Arizona. — San Bernardino, Los Angeles, and that country. — Climate, soil, people and business in 1867 and 1884. — Land, titles, etc CHAPTER V. Leave Los Angeles for a new mining camp in Nevada.— The stock of a train captured by Indians. — "Death Valley." — Eighty- seven families, stock, etc., perish. — The surrounding region and its products. — How teamsters are revenged. — Comprehensive des- cription of the mining camp, etc. — Hurrah ! Hurrah ! ! We have struck it, Hurrah! ! ! — A big Indian. — How Mining Co's. officials steal.— Indian and white man hung, etc. — The mode of govern- ment and trial; wages, living, business, etc. — The geological formation of mineral lodes, veins, fissures, etc., and placer mines. Prospecting for and locating claims. — The right time to sell, etc. — Why mines are guarded with rifles. — How stock companies operate. — Why newspaper accounts of mines are not reliable. — The real prices paid for mines. - How stock, etc., is made to seU. — One-and-a-half year's experience. CHAPTER VI. The mines, continued. — Exciting reports from a distant moun- tain. — I outfit one of a party to go. —What he wrote me. — " Ho ! for White Pine ! " — The richest silver mine ever discovered. — The pure stuff. — I go, too, — Visit another camp on the way.— My horse and saddle " borrowed." - A big camp ablaze with excitement. — Belief that the stuff could be found anywhere by digging. — The many thousand "mines."— "Brilliant schemes." Blubbering in- vestors from the States. — Life : gambling, drinking, business and damnation. — Making big sales,. etc.; the outcome. — Another year and a half of lively practical experience in the mines. — The many smaller camps in the surrounding region. — Virginia City and Gold HiU — The great Comstock lode.— The Bonanza and other great stock gambling mines that we read of. Contents. 13 CHAPTER VII. Building the U. P. and Central railroads. — A general rugged prospecting tour of seven months in Nevada, Idaho and Montana. — On to Washington Territory. - The country, climate, soil, scenery, fishing, hunting, incidents, etc., etc. — Finding the true source of the fine gold in the Snake and Columbia rivers, — The more famous of the Idaho Placer mines. CHAPTER VIII. A comprehensive description of the WaUa Walla country; soil, climate and productions and the lay of the land. - Hire out on a farm for two months.— The secret of success and failure in government and coj-poration contracts. — Secret intrigue at military posts, etc. — Experience in work in the mountains.— Locate a land claim and get married — A year's experience. CHAPTER IX. Brief description of Eastern and Western Washington and of the various sections in each ; their industries and inducements, advantages and disadvantages. CHAPTER X. History of the settling of the Walla Walla country. — Report of government experts as to the soil. — Packing to the mines of Idaho, etc. — The market and opportunities. — The outlook in 1870 when I landed there. — The country grasped by its throat; the government prostituted. — 1000 miles of river navigation to the sea strangled, and the tribute that was levied. — The result. — The promised railroad, etc. — First land claim I located. — Life in the beginning of a home ; dangers and draw-backs. — My first outfit. — Sell my claim ; hunt for and locate another in a new wild section; description of it and the locality. — My Indian neighbors; how they treated the first white men they ever saw. — A homebuildei-'s land rights and what he must necessarily endure in carving a home in a wilderness. —Warned of the perplexities, conspiracies and treason to be planted in the way. — How we started out to build a good and spacious home; our first house, etc. — Travelling, moving and camping in the west. — 25 miles to blacksmith's shop, 14 Contents. etc. — The '' Egypt" for supplies. — Land claims located about us aud abandoned, are re-located by others time and again. — My first crop; big, black, hungry crickets, one hundred bushels to the acre. — So that we are left alone in the "France Settlement." — The section surveyed and I '' file my claim."— Raise hogs ; the result ; also get a band of cattle; experience on the range. —Getting roads opened, etc. — First railroad in Eastern Washington. - Struggling for a livelihood and home ; how I managed. — Other new settle- ments and people; how they done. — ''Land hunters." — "Prove up "; pay for and get j^atent for pre-emption claim and take a homestead claim adjoining. — Copy of United States patent. — How we just loped along and ahead of the country. — It settles up. — New county; towns, etc., built; settlers swindled; build school house, etc., etc. CHAPTER XI. An Indian war. — Neighboring Indians go on the warpath ; the reason. -Description of their domain; their horses and cattle. — A job on Uncle Sam. — How they plead for their country. —"Earth governed by the sun," etc. — Whom they killed. — How they marched and fought. — Settlers either stampede or gather in fortresses. — Efforts made by men to have other tribes break out. — For plunder. — What an Indian must do to become a citizen. — How Indian claims are jumped. — What the Indian was before the advent of the Whites. — Their government, pursuits, etc. — What fire-arms and whiskey done for them. — How they started fire, lived and died ; their religion, — How to improve the Indian. — "A cry ot the soul." CHAPTER XII. Indians, continued. — Joseph. — White Bird. — Looking glass and Indians generally. — The White Bird fight. — These Indians in early days ; their flocks, herds and fine farms. — The result of the war to the Indians. — "Cold-blooded treachery." — How Chief Joseph treated white prisoners. — " The glory of the West." — Col. Steptoe's defeat. — "For God's sake, give me something to kill my- self with." — The others saved by other Indians. — An Ingrate. — Col. Wright's victory ; G20 horses butchered.— How Wright treated Indian prisoners. — " The Chief Moses outrage." — " Mystery." —$70,000,000 squandered by the gang. Contents. " 15 CHAPTER XIII. Indians, concluded. — " The Waiilatpu massacre. — The thrilling story of one who, as a girl, was an eye witness, and then taken away as a prisoner. — Forebodings of the murderous outbreak. — Friendly warnings given. — The dying hours of Dr. and Mrs. "Whitman." — Mission life among the Indians. — As the Indians were in 1852 ; and then in 1856. — Death of Chief Kanaskat. — How Indians are preserved.— How ''civilization" was introduced to the natives of South and Central America. CHAPTER XIV. Home building narrative resumed. — Improve homestead claim as I had the other. — The market, etc. — My herds of cattle, horses, hogs, etc. — Great prosperity. — Railroads built from tide water; freights, etc. — Immigration. — Further enlargement of my home and business by leasing, fencing and breaking a quarter section of school land. — Copy of the lease and receipt for second year's pay- ment on the same. — The law and custom as to it. — Confirmed by Congress. — Serve as county road viewer and on first grand jury of Columbia County, and learn something.— Road supervisor of a twenty-mile district. — A review, and what I have learned about farming, etc. — The best economy while " serpents are at the udder." CHAPTER XV. Land jumping. — First serious case in the " France settlement." — Our graveyard started. — The '^ poor man's friend." — Street fight with a jumper. - "Hurrah for Whetstone Hollow." Public senti- ment as to such cases.— When the courts and press stand in with the people, and when against them. — Land sharks. — How petty thieves are shot down with impunity. — Home wreckers ; how my prosperity made me an object of envy and ravage.— A murderous conspii'acy by gentlemen with great influence at court to jump my pre-emption and school land portions of my well-earned, improved and stocked home. — The Ipng pretexts that were invented and used as a blind ; jump all the water, etc., on my place. — "If you want any water, dig for it ! " — Wanted to get me into their courts. — How I repossessed my own. — "Will fix you by helping H. . jump youi" school land ! " — How I had befriended them. — "Damned be he who first cries hold : enough ! " — Tries to drive me off Avith a gun, etc. — How we get better acquainted; get friendly and he 16 Contents. agi-ees to quit. — How I was performing my homage against a lurking foe. — His object. — Is set to resume the conflict. — "An out- rage for one man to own all the land, and the water too." — "WiU settle it with an ounce of lead," etc. — Boasts of his backing and influence. — "We will make it hot as hell for you now." — " I have taken your school land, E — , your pre-emption, and by G — d ! we will soon have a man on your homestead ! " — A man loans me his pistol for defense, and then eggs on the jumper. — The lying gang. — " But truth shall conquer at the last." — Jumper's many wicked threats. — Try to have him bound over to keep the peace. — My instructions from the peace officer. — " Be prepared to defend your- self and sow the ground." — He loans me seed for the purpose. — " There comes [Jumper] now with a gun! " — "Let us go out and see what he is going to do with it." — " I don't care a damn what he does with it." — How he followed me around the field with a cocked carbine in both hands. — Quits and has a secret conference with the man who did not care a damn what he done with his gun. — " I ask you as a friend and neighbor to quit sowing wheat and leave the field, for there is going to be trouble ! " — " Look out for him, now!" — Belches out at the end of a stream of profanity, " turn back ! leave the field ! and don't come back nary time ! " — "I will fix you!" crac/c, bang/ — "I wiU kill you!" crack, bang/ — I return the fire in rapid succession, thus saving my life. — Positive, certain, incontrovertible proof as to the same. — How he missed me by a scratch! — "There, France is shot!" — The lying gang. — "Where logic is invented and wrong is called right." — Am charged with murder! — The would-be assassin, home ravager and ravishfr is shielded, venerated and revenged by his gang. — " If by this means we further our cause, the private assassin deserves our applause." — Am thrown into jail without a hearing. — Held in jail near ten months begging and demanding a trial; can never get either a trial or hearing. — " Virtue distressed " could get no protection here. — Am betrayed, sold and given away. — " His glories lost, his cause Betrayed ! " — Shanghaied to the gang's Bastile in double irons. — "Oh ! 'twas too much, too dreadful to endure !" — "He jests at scars that never felt a wound ! " — " Is this then," thought the youth, "is this the way to free man's spirit from the deadening sway of worldly sloth ; to teach him while he lives to know no bliss but that which virtue gives ? " — Examples of other cases, and what the law is. — My case as established, and the law, etc., as to the same. Contents. 17 CHAPTER XVI. A pilgrimage throug'li hell ! — Seven years' experience in the Seateo contract bastile ; the kind of a hell and s-vdndle this was ; how 1 was taken there ; a three or four days joiu'ney by wagon, boat and rail. — How I was judged by people on the road. — Sym- pathy. — " Either innocent of crime or a very bad man." — The set questions asked by those who had suffered likewise. — Description of the bastile. — How I was impressed. — The land of jDCople I found the prisoners to be, and the officials. — Plow they were employed. — What they had done and what they had not done; their com- plaints, etc. — Jumping away. — The crooked and rocky road to liberty. — Who got there and how. — The inquisition of the mind. — How prisoners are driven to the frenzy of despair and death. — What they earned and were worth to the gang. — What it cost the people. — What they got to eat and wear. — How they were treated when well and when sick. — The punishments. — How I was engag- ed while in the midst of flaming desolation. — Crazy prisoners. — The good and bad qualities and conduct of the officials. — The re- deeming feature of the institution. — The different nationalities and occupations represented and their experiences. — One of the Polaris' crew; six months on an ice floe. — The good, bad and mixed; the innocent, guilty and the victims of circumstances, whiskey and accidents. — Inequality of sentences and treatment. — Robbing the cradle and the grave for seventy cents a day. — How they lived and died. — The censorship on correspondence and the real object of the same. — A secret prison. — Shanghaied prisoners trj^ to make their cases known to the public. — How the Governor stood in with the gang. — Letters smuggled by ministers, members of the Legislature, humane guards, etc. — Squelching letters of vital importance. — "Damn you, you can't j^^ove it." — Like abuses in the insane asylum. — The remedy. — A i)lea that any prisonei shall ai least he accorded a public hearing, and let the People judge. — The worst criminals not in prison, but in office ; their victims crushed. — A pet prisoner turned in with a bottle of whis- key and a pistol in his pockets. — The visiting preachers; what they thought of the prisoners and of the officials. — One that was a thorough-bred ; would fight the devil in any guise ; what he done for reform and how he was bounced. — Can wTite to him yourself. — Cruel deception. — False and cheating hopes. — "There is France, if he had not been so anxious about getting home, he would have been out long ago." — " Must keep still and not bore anybody." — 2 18 CONI ENTS. Eolo the sdll an(J mrel- Ia)iginshed and diid! — How other prisoners were shanghaied. — "Bad conduct." — My conduct; strikes, etc. — How officials are interested against a prisoner's justice. — How ''heaven is sometimes just and pays us back in measures that we mete." — How prisoners are robbed.— Women prisoners and how they were treated. — Visits of the legishiture, etc. — A ijrisoner makes a great speech and his teeth are pulled out for the trouble it makes the officials. — What the legislature said and what they did. — The pardoning power and how it was exercised. — The lie. — That "to hear prisoners talk they are all innocent." — Eeading matter, etc. — How to control prisoners. — How they get revenge. — HoAV prisoners should be treated. — Where they should be kei)t. — How a prison should be conducted to be self-supporting and to reform those who need reforming. — How to enforce the sacred right of petition and the sober second thought of the people. CHAPTER XVII. Prison experience, continued. — My personal efforts and that of my friends for my release from the Bastile, for some kind of a trial, and for only a respectful hearing. — The result, etc. — "Truth wears no mask, bows at no human shrine, seeks neither place nor applause, she only asks a hearing." — Letters of my Tvife ; governors, judges, and various other persons, and correspondence. — Petitions, recommendations, etc., etc., and how they were treated, etc., etc. CHAPTER XVIII. Prison experience, continued — An epitome of my life, ease and trouble addressed to Governor and people.— The only argument and summing up of my case that was ever made. — The frank but fruit- less wail for justice and humanitj^ by a victim ; shanghaied, ravaged and languishing in prison. — " Let thy keen glance his life search through, and bring his actions in review, for actions speak the man." — "While love and peace and social joy were there. Oh, peace ! oh, social joy ! Oh, heaven-born love ! Were these your haunts, where murderous demons rovef Distinction neat and nice, which lie between the poison'd chalice and the stab unseen." Contents. 19 CHAPTER XIX. Prison experience, concluded. — Efforts to get my case before the Supreme Court. — Copious extracts from my diary kept in prison. — "Considering my case." — "Seeing about it," etc., etc. — My appeals to Legislatures, the President, Congress, etc. — How changes in Governors, etc., are disscussed by prisoners. — Prisoners that were shanghaied and never convicU d. — How I established my good conduct against the lying gang. — The " good Judiciary." — Efforts of and for other prisoners, and results. — Removal to Walla "Walla. — My release, etc. CHAPTER XX. Tragedies. — Land jumping, etc. — Experience of other men. — More of real life and death in the Northwest. — What was transpir- ing with other people while and since I was languishing in prison for defending my life and home against the gang. — All of these were either acquitted of any crime, or not even indicted or troubled. — The glaring contrast. — "Uneasy settlers." — "A pro- tective association ;" "land jumping;" "put-up jobs;" "homes im- perilled;" " shooting affair;" "Vigilantes;" "murderous assault by a band of midnight assassins;" "high handed." — "With pride in their port, defiance in their eye, we see the secret lurking lords of human kind pass by." — "Lynching;" "people arming;" "a danger- ous man ;" "land troubles;" " a tramp boom ;" "killed for robbing sluice boxes ;" " laying in wait to kill ;" filled with shot ; killing three men for a few dollars. CHAPTER XXL Land troubles, etc., continued. — " The Riparian fight." — On Puget Sound. — Shooting for the tide lands. — A woman defending her claim. — Dynamite. — Vigilantes by the thousand. — Big money for the Court gang. — Lawyers instigating a fight. — Land jumping. — Coroner's inquests. — " Defective" land titles. — A trick of the Court gang. — "I tell you again to stop plowing." — Crack! Bang! — Why government lands are classified when they are all good for homes if good for anything. — The Court "bar" (gang) organizes trouble. " Be ready." — " Parasites." — " Citizens arming." — Who gets 90 per cent, of all plunder. 20 Contents. CHAPTER XXII. Sample tragedy cases in the Northwest, in brief, concluded. — What members of the gang can do to others with impunity. Vic- tims that were not venerated or sanctij&ed by the gang. — About Land. — " Shot him dead." — Stabbed him to the heart. — Stabbed him in tlie head. — Shot down in cold blood. — The Court burnt in effigy, and why. — '^A dark scheme." — "This is not the first time I have had to face lead to protect my rights." — "Served the fiend right." — Shooting a man down in cold blood for a few dollars. — Killing a man for alleged threats to burn his house. — " The hero of the hour." Etc., etc. CHAPTER XXIII. The courts and laws of Washington and Alaska. — Women as jurors, etc. — "The infamous decision," etc., etc. — "Complaints of Court." — "A novel ruling," etc. CHAPTER XXIY. The courts and laws of Oregon, Montana and British Colum- bia, etc, CHAPTER XXV. The courts and laws of California and the States, etc. CHAPTER XXVI. Big land steals in Washington. — "80 percent, of the entries in one district fraudulent." — How this is accomplished, and who can do it with impunity. CHAPTER XXVII. Big land steals in Oregon, California, etc. — How it is done there. — "In a valley, 30 miles long, ditches were dug from the stream, dams built, the land flooded, and then taken up by the gang as ' swamp land,' " etc. — This is why land is classified. — Brazen perjury, and nobody punished. — The reason. — Wagon road swindles, etc. — Sink artesian wells to irrigate " swamp land," etc. — "Three-fourths of the land titles fraudulent." — Murdering home- builders. Contents. 21 CHAPTER XXVIII. Railroads, big grants, etc., in the Northwest, etc. — How they are worked. What they cost the gangs. — What they control. — A servile and purchased press. — Advice to settlers. — What a " terri- torial pioneer" says. — WJiat the jjeojjle say. — ''Awake! arise! or be forever fallen I " CHAPTER XXIX. As to the martial law trouble in protecting highbinder China- men and white criminals on Puget Sound,when American citizens were pillaged, murdered and driven out with no troops to protect them. — Vigilance committee. — "Justice blinded with a vengeance." Judge Lynch, and how he judged. — Death from j)overty, etc. etc. CHAPTER XXX. The Tartaric horde vs. American Citizens. — "A crisis." — " To the thinking man," " even to those who do not think." — The Anti-Chinese Congress, etc., etc. CHAPTER XXXI. Anti-Chinese. — " A great demonstration at Seattle ; the larg- est ever seen in the teiTitory." — Making fish of one set of citizens and fowl of another, etc., etc. CHAPTER XXXII. The Tacoma trouble and the Exodus. — Statement of promi- nent citizens. — " Truth and justice buried, and fraud and guile succeed," etc., etc. CHAPTER XXXIII. Captain of the Queen's story as to the Seattle Exodus. — Ninety-seven Chinamen in court. — "The Government is strong and will protect" [secret highbinders with influence at court,] etc. CHAPTER XXXIV. "Home Guards" fire into the crowd ; five men wounded; one dies. — " Shot down in cold blood.'" — Charged with murder, etc. — 22 Contents. The City of Seattle under martial law. — Drive out white citizens and protect Chinese highbinders. — "Military headquarters," etc. — Unmeasured gall. — Blackstone on martial law. — " Treason doth never prosper, what's the reason ? Why if it prosper, none dare call it treason." — 'Truth forever on the scaffold, T^Tong forever on the throne." CHAPTER XXXV. Coui't Martial and a Military Commission with a Judge-Ad- vocate and Recot-der now under eight indictments for forgery and robbery. — Crime made respectable, and to tell the truth is made a crime. — "An authentic account." — It is the weakest, not the worst, that goes to the wall. — United States troops, etc., etc. CHAPTER XXXVI. The judgment of the people and of the Supreme Court. — The martial law "mere lawless violence" ; but " the trail of the serpent is over them all." CHAPTER XXXVII. A brief, comprehensive and practical history of Masonry, Knight Templars of Malta, St. John, Hospitalers, etc. — The Crusades to possess the Holy Land; Egypt, etc. — How Jerusalem and Acre were taken and re-taken. — Why the Holy Land was made a desert. — The practical workings of the Masonry and kindred Orders of to-day. — Mostly the testimony of others, as taken from books and the press. CHAPTER I. striking out from liome when a boy. — My object. — Ho ! For the Oil Regions in Pennsylvania. — My Chum. — Great Excitement.- — Oil City flooded. — "Coal Oil Johnny." — Tools, etc., used in boring for oil. — All about finding oil. — And what the oil is. — My experience for about a year. In the winter of 1864-65 I concluded to leave mj home in New York for an indefinite time ; not exactly to hunt buffalo and kill Indians on the plains, for killing- was never sport to me, and I was not 'wild,' nor to seek my fortune ; for at that time this did not appear necessary, though I expected to earn by work my living and travelling expenses, and more, if I run on to any great opportunity to do so. My object was to see and know more of the living, bustling, wild and wide world, than what transpired in the drowsy orthodox range in which I was confined. My parents tried to dissuade and divert me from my jDur- pose, but, as I had set my heart on it, they neither strenuously opposed me nor did they give any formal consent ; but left the field clear for my return as the prodigal son of old, which they prophesied I would soon do, for them to say "did I not tell you so, my boy," and to lessen the sting of adieu. Little did I then think I was never to see them any more in this world, or know the terrible pangs of grief I would suffer when we really kissed each other good bye, and that the thought of that sad event would haunt me, and make me sick at times, for many years to come. A young friend was to ramble with me, and we started March 13th, 1865. The oil regions in Pennsylvania was our first destination, as there were many fabulous stories afioat, and much excitement about oil at that time, to such an extent, that poor men at a distance were mortgaging their homes to buy stock in oil companies (or confidence games) then being worked and played to catch the unwary ; and wages and em- ployment there were reputed as high and abundant. At the end of the third day we arrived by rail at the end of the track — then about a mile from Oil City. We jumped off (23j 2-i Striking Out From Home. into the mud ana oil a foot or two deep, and waded through it in the dark to town and to a hotel (could have ridden for two dollars). The next day it was raining; teams were stuck in the street, loaded with but a few hundred pounds. Teaming (hauling oil, coal, lumber, machinery, etc.,) was a great business in the oil regions at that time. The price of single teams and wagon with driver was twenty dollars per day or more, and they made forty dollars per day in handling flat boats in and up Oil Creek. Drivers were rated at fifty dollars per month, and no one envied their pay or position. The vast amount of dead horses lying about or floating down the Creek, the number of broken wagons in sight, together with the high price of stable room, feed, etc., showed that it was not all profit. Yet there was big money in the business to those whom such drawbacks were not discouraging, but were taken as a matter of course. A scene on the road : — A team loaded with oil stuck in a mud hole full of big boulders and blocking the way for tAventy teams behind ; the driver asks the nearest ''what will you take to pull me out?" "Nothing for that, but two dollars and fifty cents for hitching on in the mud." In time roads were made, feed, stable room, etc., got cheap and handy, when, as there was nothing frightful in the business, everybody was willing to engage in it, and nobody made much in the business any more. Next came railroads, and then, in time, pipe-lines were added for conveying oil. Crowds of disgusted and home-sick men having failed to find employment, and short of money, told discouraging stories to us — they were discouraging to us then, to be sure, because of our inexperience in the world, otherwise we would have critically gathered useful and encouraging information instead. However, my chum concluded during the day that he had rambled far enough from his good old home and that we were ^,bout lost, too, and having now been absent for several whole days and nights, and remembering that his pet mare was liable to have a colt with none to caress them, and corn planting time would soon be on hand with his vacant place to fill, he reluct- The Oil Regions. 25 antlj left me to my self-willed fate and returned home to his mother — and he was about ri^^ht. As neither of us had any trade, and common labor appeared very rugged and abundantly supplied, and not having any money, letters of acquaintance, or other means by which we could engage in some one or another of the business opportun- ities, the outlook, indeed, was not brilliant or strewn with roses. But I had not expected it would be ; I had not counted on getting a berth as conductor as we travelled along, as clerk at a hotel wherever we happened to stop for a few days, or as con- fidential agent for some big concern, on sight and application; nor yet the gift of a team, flat-boat, brewery or oil-well, as an inducement to stop a few months when we got there. Leaving my cumbrous valise at the hotel I struck out among the oil-wells to see what I could see, learn and discover. The rain storm continued, resulting in a flood ; Oil Creek rose to a river and with the Alleghany inundated the town of Oil City to the extent that those living in the business and lower portion had to move upstairs in the night, the street was over- flowed, and the public buildings, churches, etc., were occupied with those who were entirely drowned out. Returning the following day, I found my valise in five or six feet of water — all being confusion and havoc, as water was king, and he was mad. Millions of dollars in oil, barrels, tanks, flat-boats, rafts of lumber, buildings, merchandise, etc., etc., were carried away, destroyed, or damaged. When the water had subsided, I rolled oil barrels on the dock for a few days at sixty cents per hour, and then got a job with a surveyor as chain carrier at three dollars per da}', which I held until I had travelled over much of that region. I remember seeing old Indian camping grounds and hear- ing the stories of how they used to gather the "Seneca oil" with blankets on Oil Creek, and sell it for medical purposes to the pale-faced invaders. These were days of jubilee for the horny-handed farmers anywhere around here, as they could now sell their poor and rugged side-hill farms for five, ten and twenty thousand dollars to speculators and companies who were now minutely surveying 26 Stkiking Out Fiiom Home. them, with their springs and creeks to map and paint in glow- ing colors, to divide up and sell to strangers as oil lands rich in prospects. Many tricks were invented and used to effect sales of "oil lands," such as burying barrels of oil, slightly tapped, near some spring, so the oil would run in and flow from it, and as carrying a hollow cane — with a valve in the end — filled with oil to show an investor, oil "most anywhere around here just by pushing a stick in the ground, you see." But it was at a distance, on pasteboard and paper, that "oil lands" and "town lots" for sale appeared the most enchant- ing, as bluflfs and craggy hills appeared as level land then, and the streams and springs were often only in the mind and picture. However, in time it transpired that surface indications proved little or nothing anyway, as wells that were sunk in, or near real oil springs, seldom, if ever, produced in paying quantities, and the high lands — at first considered worthless- proved as good as any, except the inconvenience or inaccessi- bility in working it. And altogether only one well in perhaps a hundred pro- duced any oil, and it was more apt to yield but one barrel per day than two or three hundred ; very few outside investors who kept their stock or interests got their money back. Man}' original owners of the land held on to it and allowed others to sink wells on it — the owner to receive one-third of what oil might be produced. This is what the widow McClintoc did, and which made "Coal Oil Johnny" — her adopted son — so rich for a time and notorious as a prodigal son of fortune. While he was scattering his wealth to the wild winds, he declared to his friends, who tried to divert him from his down- ward course, that "he had driven a team on Oil Creek for a living and could do so again," and substantially this he after- wards had to do in other places. Though he spent much of his fortune in reckless dissipation and sport, he also gave away a great deal from a most noble impulse and kindly feeling. But perhaps more than either or both amounts was gotten from him by "real nice and respected" gentry, by chicanery of the The Oil Eegions. 27 most contemptible and villainous type, — such as setting up banks to "fail" after catching his large de230sits. He knows more of human and inhuman characters now ; ■what a pity for him and his, that he had not learned it in his youth, either in his own efforts for a living, or it had been taught to him by the wider and deeper experience of others, educated by struggling with the real masked and brazen world. Much has been said and sung about the prodigality of ^'Johnny Coal Oil," but somehow we never hear of any great good flowing from those who got two barrels of oil, whenever John Steel got one. It was customary in the oil regions to keep a pail of petroleum in the house for making fires, and in this way Mrs. McClintoc was burned to death. I was at and over the place. Others lost their opportunity to gain a competency by thus allowing their places to be prospected or tested, instead of sell- ing on faith and hope, at a time when it was universal and strong. When the whole country had been prospected, it then transpired that the oil lands lay in narrow belts without regard to creeks, hills, or other surface formation, and in these, oil had not been always found. Crude petroleum is as thick or heavy as lard oil ; but the color is a deep green ; it emits an odor like the petroleum axle grease sold throughout the country. I shipped a barrel of it home, as a curiosity and for lubricating machinery. It appears to be a sort of fish oil, the sand-stone in which it is confined being sometimes the bed of a sea, and by its up- heaval, turned off the water and gave the whale-like animals their death in the sand, this sand drifting or otherwise receiv- ing and holding from evaporation their carcasses and oil, when the sand hardens into a strata of sand-stone, retaining and confining the oil with the gases. My next emploj-ment was in running an engine for a pump- ing oil well at four dollars per day ; board being from six to eight dollars per week, (the Pennsylvania Dutch are exception- ally good livers); and then I worked as driller in boring other wells at the same wages ; and at one of these employments or the other— sometimes sharpening and repairing the tools being 28 Striking Out From Home. included — I was engaged during the most of my sojourn in the Oil Regions, which time was nearly eleven months. I thus worked at different wells and localities. At one place (Franklin) I sunk a well, with one helper, from five hundred to about a thousand feet deep ; and as there was but the two of us (they generally run night and day, re- quiring four men) we put in as much time as we desired, which was sixteen hours per day and eighteen on Saturdays. This well was sunk four or five hundred feet deeper than others, as an experiment, but found no oil. A humbug oil " smeller " had traced several veins of oil to a junction at the very spot we bored through, he " could (and did) give the depth " also. The average oil well was five inches in diameter. The average boring tools consist of a bit, or drill, two and a half feet long, which is screwed into a round bar, twenty-two feet long ("anger stem "), which is screwed into one end of a pair of heavy links ("Jars") five feet long, the other end of the jars being screwed into a round bar ("sinker bar") eight feet long, which is screwed into the end of a roj)o socket, three feet long, all made of three inch round iron, and weigh eleven or twelve hundred pounds. The end of a one and a half inch rope is wrapped and riveted into the rope socket ; the other end of the rope is passed up over a pulley at the top of the derrick and down to and wound around the shaft of a windlass-like wheel ("bull wheel"), which is attached by a a rope belt to a ten horse power engine, and used to lower and raise the tools in the well whenever the bit is dulled or the sediment (drillings) needs to be pumped out, which is as often as every two and a half feet is gone down. The tools are now suspended just over the hole, which is about full of water. The rope belt having been thrown from the bull-wheel, the driller, with a brake on the wheel, lets the tools run, or nearly drop, to the bottom of the hole (the engine being used in raising them out). Next the rope at a few feet above the mouth of the hole is clasped tightly to a screw arrangement ("temper screw"), the screw itself being two and a half feet long, the upper end of which is a swivel and hook, which is hooked under the end of a walking beam, say thirty feet long, the other end of it being attached to the engine with a O (29) 30 Striking Out From Home. pitmen; then slack is given the rope above by turning the buli- uheel back, thus causing the tools to hang suspended to the ■walking beam; when the engine is started, the tools being simply raised and dropped two or three feet at every turn of the walking beam, which is made to go slow or fast according to the depth of the hole and length of the rope; as can be imagined, the deeper the hole, the slower the stroke. The w^eight of the bit, the twenty-two feet "anger stem" and the lower link, or half of the " jars," being the downward or drilling force, or weight ; while the weight in the upper link, or half of the jars, wath the eight feet "sinker bar," jars the bit loose as it jerks it up. Little or much "jar" being given, ac- cording to how much the bit sticks. If the hole be deep and no "jar" is given, the walking beam will play on the stretch of the rope, without raising the tools from the bottom. If the hole be shallow (so that the rope is short) and the jar is allow- ed to run entirely out, then the bit, sticking much, stops the engine or breaks something ; while too much jar lessens the fall of the bit and lower part of the tools, making it drill slow in proportion. The driller, sitting on a stool, turns the screw and rope on the swivel above a little at each downward stroke, and as the drill works down, so the jar feels slight, indistinct, or, if the bit sticks, he unscrews the temper-screw, giving more rope and more jar. When he has thus unscrewed the length of the screw (two and a half feet), or the bit is sooner dulled, the tools are hoisted out and another tool ("rimmer") is substituted for the two and a half feet bit, which is to cut or rim the hole one inch larger than the bit (the cut of the bit being but four inches) and is done to keep the hole round. This done, the tools are again hoisted out, and a sharpened bit replaces the rimmer to make another two or two and a half feet. But before the tools are let down again, the sediment or drillings must be pumped out with the "sand-pump." This tool is simply a zinc pipe, five feet long and three and a half or four inches in diameter, with a valve in one end and a bail on the other ; to this bail is tied the end of a half-inch rope which is reeled on a wheel ; the pump is dropped into the hole, and when it reaches the bottom the driller works it up and down a, The Oil Kegions. 31 /ew times by the rope, tlius working the mud or drillings up vhrough the valve into the pipe or ]5ump, then the engine reels 'jt up very quickly when it is emptied and the same simple process repeated three or four times, at the completion of every two or two and half feet. Before drilling is commenced on a well, heavy seven-inch iron pipe — in seven feet sections — is driven with a ram to the bed rock, or else an ordinary well is dug down to it and a plank bos pipe set up in it, the upper end being at the surface and is the top of the well. Solid rock is desired and generally had the rest of the way. The exceptions being in mud veins and cavities, which frequently cause trouble by pieces of rock working out and falling on the tools, to the extent sometimes that the tools and hole are abandoned. Five or six feet per day — of twelve hours — is about the average work in boring a 600 feet well. In the Oil Creek section, three stratas of sand-stone are found and gone through, each thirty or forty feet thick, in which the oil is. Little or none is found in the first strata (at about 225 feet), more is apt to be found in the second (at about 425 feet), but never, I believe, in paying quantities, so that little notice is given to any prospects found here either ; but when the third strata is reached and gone through, which is at a depth of nearly 600 hundred feet, then the boring is finished ; as here in the third sand-stone is where oil is expected to be found, if at all, and worked. The kind of rock between the stratas of sand-stone is mostly granite, slate or soap-stone, with- thin stratas of a harder nature, sometimes flint. In one well, in say a thousand, oil is struck which immedi- ately flows and spurts out ; but whether this be the case or not, the well is next piped to within a few feet of the bottom with a two and a half inch gas or water pipe, having a pump valve in the bottom section, and a leather bag the size of the well (five inches) and two feet long is tied at each end around the pipe or tubing, so it will be just above the third sand-stone ; this "seed bag" having been filled with flax seed, which, swelling, shuts off all the water above it to the surface, thus allowing any pressure of oil and wat^r wK^ch may be below it in the OF THB 32 Striking Out From Home. third sand-stone to flow np the tubing without incumbrance from the veins of Avater for 500 feet or more above. But unless a strong force of gas is tapped, neither oil nor water is apt to be very pressing to get up. In any such case, however, it generally flows or spurts out at intervals, sj)asmod- ically, with gas enough to run an engine and more. Usually no oil has yet appeared when "sucker rods," with a pump valve at the end of the first section, are let down into the tubing to the bottom, and the upper end attached to the walking beam, and pumping commenced and continued — night and day and Sundays— for about six weeks. When if nothing but water, or water and gas appears, the well is abandoned, which, of course, is generally the case. The water may be salt at the start, or get to be such after pumping a few days or weeks. Salt water is a favorable sign, it frequently being followed by oil, and oil is not found without it. I believe petroleum was first struck in boring for salt. The Indians of the oil regions had gone to their happy hunting grounds, or had been removed, or fables as to their supposed knowledge of oil springs, etc., might have been in- vented and they thus utilized by rings of men— with the aid of their press— and the oil excitement prolonged, as is done in other mining regions. Moreover, it was too accessible to the outside world, by rail and the Alleghany River, for, with slight expense, time and inconvenience, those who were furnishing the cash, for the operators to invest and steal, could see and learn for them- selves the business and properties in which so many were wildly investing. This is the reason the Pacific railroads and Gen. Crook (who settled the Indians beyond question for a time in Arizona) were such a curse to the mining and tributary interests in the far west, causing whole districts to be abandoned, and so they are yet. Many with money to invest then learned, in ad- vance of investment, not to expect returns from investments in ring companies on account of songs sung of a comparative few lucky strikes ; so times in the mining and oil camps became very hard. And as many of the games were being closed for a change of base and operations, away from lines of travel, many The Oil Kegions. 33 of the common herd of men were swindled out of their wages, deposits or savings, and with the outside investors were settled with in stocks of experience, in knowledge they should have gained in their youth. "For such is the temper of men that before they have had the trial of great afflictions, they do not understand what is for their advantage : but when they find themselves under such afflictions, they then change their minds, and what it had been better for them to have done before they had been at all damaged, they choose to do, but not until after they have suffered such damage." — Josephus. A few months or years as a news-boy, or spent in sweeping, or doing errands in offices or dens of lawyers, ring companies or other gangs, so he hears the talk that goes on there, with practical moral lessons at home, is for a boy the best bequest, the best endowment, the most wise foundation, stock in trade and security for fortune and favor, and to keep one "unspotted in the world" — though he may spot others. I was present at the dying scenes of those plays, so skill- fully painted in oil, and years afterwards at others, galvanized in silver and gold, I left the oil regions on February lltli, 1866, having earned nearly one thousand dollars ; had many enjoyable times and others not so pleasant ; had been at all the towns and sections from Franklin and below to Titusville, and from Oil Creek to Pit-hole. Had lost various sums in loaning and in simple con- fidence and folly, had disposed of other sums in friendship and favor and pleasure, and got away with about five hundred dollars ; had I remained a little longer, a bank would have got away with most of that, as it was near the time set to close their deals, done in the name and guise of security (?) and by the protection of the courts. Courts grind the poor, and rings rule the courts. CHAPTER II. Leaving the oil regions for a good time ' ' out West. " — A period of travel, etc., of four and a half months to the Missouri river. — Tlien crossing the pLains to Salt Lake Avith wagon train in sixty days.- — Our train. — My team. — First camp in a storm. — Fording the Platte river with its quick-sand bottom. — Big teams. — My first drink — Delusion in dis- tance. — Game. — Freighting, etc. — Life and Government on the plains. — A comprehensive account of the region from the Missouri river to Salt Lake Valley. OTHEES have said before that a doHar's worth of pure pleasure is worth more than a dollar's worth of auythiug else in the world — that working is not living, but only the means by which we win a living ; that money is good for nothiug, except for what it brings of comfort and culture. Believing in this philosophy, I next started out to live and to enjoy the pleasure and culture I had won, devoting the ensuing four and a half months to travel by rail, water and stage (tramping was not much in vogue then), and in visiting relatives and others of my acquaintance, who had settled "out West," in Ohio, Illinois Michigan and Nebraska. This was a season of enjoyment, unalloyed by cares, hard- ships or perplexities of any kind, and to which my mind often reverts, and always with the utmost pleasure and satisfaction. Of the pleasant homes and happy families, of the genuine lios- pitalit}^ affection, friendship and good times I enjoyed on every hand, I should like to dwell on. And also of the cities and many places and objects of interest I saw to admire ; but as there was nothing rugged or strange blended in my experiences here, I must thus pass them over, which brings me to the 20th of June, 1866, when I found myself at Nebraska City in charge of a foiir mule team and wagon, loaded with improved rifles, and bound over the plains for Salt Lake City. "Joy bounds through every throbbing vein — Dear world ? where love and pleasure reign." None of the Pacific railroads had yet been built, but the TJ. P. and Central was commenced that summer ; consequently all the freight required to supply Denver, the Mines, Salt Lake, (34) Life on the Plains. 35 the Military Posts and the whole region between the Missouri river and the Pacific ocean and our northern line and Mexico, with the slight exception of some river navigation near the coast, M^as then transported in wagons by mule and ox teams. For safety and convenience these travelled in companies or trains of say twenty to forty wagons. An average ox team was six yoke and that of mules run from four to fourteen animals. I think the Government standard of six is the most practicable team for teaming ; most any one can handle and care for such a team ; a load can be gotten on one wagon without the risk of sid- ling and soft roads, and the leaders of the team don't need to swing all over the country in making a few miles, as do large teams and trail or high-loaded wagons. Freighting on the plains was an extensive and usually a profitable industry, but the fortunes were mostly acquired by ring favorites of Government ofiicials, on account of Govern- ment transportation, and they, usually, sub-letting to others who did the work at half the cost to Uncle Sam. This western region — marked on the old maps as the "Great American De- sert," or the "Plains," as the unsettled portions are called in the west — in the days I speak of were much like the ocean in many respects, and in this, that there were no courts and lawyers to murder justice. Everybody was expected to defend and protect himself and his own, and consequently was always more or less jjrepared and ready to do so. And it transpired that the results of this simple and taxless mode of Government (anarchy) as j^ractised on the plains by the many thousands and mottled throngs during those many years — though not above all desirable— yet that it was far superior to that of any ring-ridden lawyer gang infested community. Bad Indians and just as bad white men would murder and plunder to some extent, to be sure, but not to the extent one would imagine, considering the isolation and the large and en- ticing opportunities, and nothing in comparison to that com- mitted in the states in the name of one thing or another. This is true, notwithstanding the pretty true saying, that "Everybody quarrels in crossing the plains." But the com- panionship is often close in travelling, camping and working 36 Out West. together, and the necessary hardships and aggravations are often trying, and test to the quick all of the traits of the human disposition. Be this as it may, nobody was imprisoned, but few ever killed or hurt, and losses of property, or peace of mind, seldom occurred there from trouble with each other ; and it was such an active life, too. Plains' people usually refrained from practising tricks and confidence games in their dealings with one another, or even to take the advantage of ignorance, or necessity, (because there ■were no laws and courts to protect them in such devihy), there- fore they seldom had or made any trouble, and when any did occur, it was short and decisii'e, instead of a lingering, never- ending agony of suspense, expense and often of unjust torture, as is the result at rotten courts. A New York business man with his family, desiring to make a visit to Utah (his wife being a Mormon lady, strange though it may seem) and to increase his wealth, bought twenty- four new w^agons, harness, etc., and over a hundred mules, which were also mostly new, loaded up with his own goods (general merchandise), and all for the Salt Lake City market. I was to drive one of his teams through at twenty dollars per month. Teamsters on the plains had usually been getting from forty to eighty dollars per month, but now so many were anxious to emigrate west to the mining regions, that hundreds were willing to drive even big ox teams for their board and passage — and they walked. On a Sunday we drove the band of mules from their open range - then but a few miles from Nebraska City — into town and corralled them. Outside of the towns especially, it was very unusual to ob- serve the Sabbath anywhere west of the Missouri river, and we church-going, praying puritans, who would shudder in holy horror at such desecration at home, now took to the ways of the country, and the theory that "the Sabbath was made for man, and not man for the Sabbath." A part of our mules were unbroken and wild ; in order to mix them, the wagon-master or captain of the train — who by the way got a hundred and fifty dollars per month — allowed us Life on the Plains. 37 drivers to pick one pair for our team, when he wouki select the other. I happened to get possession of perhaps the best pair in the band ; observing this, he said that " he reckoned, he could match them " (rather mimatch), and this he did; I had to lasso and choke them to a wagon wheel to be harnessed, and throw them to be shod. In the first half mile they had the end of the wagon well splintered, so to save the splinters I put them on the lead, and, in trying to get back, they broke off the tongue. I had never driven four animals before, but thought, by locating a few wagons behind the lead wagon in the train, I could herd them along after the others in some way, though they icere wild ; but they started me out on the lead, just as if I knew anything about leading a heavily loaded wagon train. Had on about 4000 pounds to the w^agon, including four or five hundred pounds of corn for feed, which was very heavy loading for the plains. Got out a mile or two the first day and camped ; took a week to make the first ten miles. There were two men to herd the mules at night, and one to drive the extra stock ; there were also two wagons belonging to the wagon master and his brother, who were Mormons, and one of our drivers was a Mormon preacher just returning from a foreign "mission." So there were about thirty of us, divided into four messes, well provided with grub for the trip, also with tents, but we seldom bothered to use them. Having bought blankets for the trip only, as I supposed, but found that the average man was expected to furnish his own bed most anywhere on the Pacific coast, and that a hay mow or straw stack is considered first- class lodging. I made my "bed" under my wagon, as it was raining, and turned in with my clothes and boots on, as though I had been used to camping all my life and liked it. It was a pouring rain with thunder and forked lightning. When the water ran into my "bed" I awoke, and took a stroll around camp to see how others did, to get fun out of this sort of living ; this was simple enough. Those who were drowned out had put up a tent in the mud, and with "Fiddler Jim" were having a concert. After we got our corn fed up, we had room to sleep in the 38 Out West. wagons ; however, it did not rain mucli more, nor is tliere any dew on the plains. Only this simple lack of rain causes so much desert and desolate country', and lack of soil and timber. Some freight trains had been manned with drivers in their necessity without any wages, and they had struck on the plains and compelled the highest to be paid them, and there had been other trouble, though justice prevailed. So now our proprietor called us together to confirm our understanding and to sign some sort of written agreement. Some were in favor of this, others against it, and the rest did'nt care. The young black- smith, however, settled the question ; he was in favor of sign- ing a contract, and a strong one, "for," said he : "I signed one once, the only one in my life, that I would stay with a black- smith three years, and I stayed three months." The wagon master said : "He would just as soon take the boys' words for it, as was usual with him, and did not apprehend any trouble of any kind." Then after the proprietor had in- formed us as to the amount of work he could do, and the number of wagons he himself could drive, if necessary — six, I believe— the matter was dropped. In the West there are many good men who are afraid to put their names to any writing whatever, even to promises they are able and intend to fulfill ; they having learned that no one could know what the meaning might be construed to be, and the expense of the same, should it ever get into a court of justice (?). There were a few improved farms at and for a few miles beyond our first camp, which, I believe, was the last that we saw till we got to Salt Creek, which was rudely settled. Now Lincoln, the State Capital, and a railroad centre, is here. Mosquitos were thick and as blood-thirsty as the members of a "charitable" brotherhood, and this was about the last place we were annoyed by insect pests during the trip. The country from the Missouri Eiver to this longitude is a beautiful and rich rolling prairie, and is now about all in culti- vation ; but west of this, or say the 98tli longitude to the coast range, the rainfall is insufficient or too uncertain", to farm suc- cessfully without irrigation (except in spots), and this is largely impracticable, because of the lack of soil or its being inacces- sible to water. Life on the Pl.\ins. 39 We struck the Platte river forty miles east of Fort Kerney, aud then travelled up its sandy bottom about 240 miles to where at that time was Julesburgh — a dilapidated military and stage station, 400 miles from the Missouri river. There were a great many dead oxen lying along the road, a great many Antelope were in sight, and owing to the rarefied air, were apparently close by, but really so far, that with all the shooting none were killed, and all we got was bought of the Indians. My first experience in the delusion of distance in a dry atmosphere occurred one afternoon on the Platte river. We having camped earl}', three of us thought we would walk out to and climb some hills, apparently half a mile from camp, to enjoy a better view ; we travelled a mile or two, and as they did not appear any nearer my chums turned back. I continued on about as much further, and seeing but little difference yet, gave it up, and in returning in the dark brought up at the camp fires of another train, half a mile from our own. At Julesburgh we forded the Platte; they called it half a mile wide here ; I would now have believed them had they said it was three miles wide. The river bed is quick-sand, and there appears to be about as much sand as water rolling along to add to the countr}^ in the Gulf of Mexico. It is dangerous for a wagon to get stuck in the river, as it would sink or settle in the sandy bottom, and so would a mule ; therefore our teams were doubled up to twelve animals, and the wagon beds were raised to keep the goods dry. Here they started me out — or in — with the first wagon again. I declared that I could not get through with such a team, but with another driver with me, and our Moses insisting, that "I could as well as anybod}^ if I only thought so," and by him leading out until his mule floundered in the treacherous sand, which is drifted in waves and heaj)s, we did come out on the opposite side — about three-quarters of a mile the way we took ; but in returning, having no wagon to steady them, the mules, chains, harness and doubletrees got in a tangled mess, so it seemed that half of the team was down or off their feet about all the time ; had all I could do to hang on to the harness ; so we finally landed — the wheelers ahead — a quarter of a mile 40 Out West. from the right landing place in the dark, as night had over- taken US. I thought I deserved hanging, or else songs of glory, but others considered it about the proper and usual perform- ance of a tenderfoot — only a needed bath for man and mules. The other teams got along better, being kept in the "track" where it was somewhat packed and less miry, as I did after- wards. An ox train loaded with a quartz mill for Idaho was cross- ing the same time we did. Hitched to one of the wagons, loaded with a large boiler, were thirty-eight yoke of cattle - they said forty-eight, but I am willing to knock off the difference as I did not count them. The boss of the train would take no un- necessary chances, and could afford to move slow, as he would get twenty or perhaps thirty cents a pound freight. However, it might have been a God-send to the outside stock holders had the whole thing and business been sunk in the sand. As to the large teams, the idea is, that a good portion of the animals need not be pulling at all, can be entirely off their feet, and there would be enough besides to pull them up and along, and thus keep the wagon moving. Some of the drivers rode the cattle while others were on horseback. Here, on the north bank of the Platte, I took my first drink, tasted liquor the first time in my life. Being taken with a bad chill, they rolled me up in blankets by the camp fire, and fed me on brandy from a tin cup ; it, however, did not prove fatal, as I have never taken a pint altogether since. We now took up Poll Creek, and travelled the general route since taken by the U. P. R. R., leaving the stage route for a time, as it went around by Denver ; arrived in Salt Lake City in sixty days from the Missouri river — about twenty miles a day, which was unusual fast time for a loaded train. As to the country between the Platte and Salt Lake, we saw a few moist, contracted bottoms, where wild hay was being made to supply the overland stage stock ; there is a good deal of bunch grass country besides, which, if the grass was cut, would yield about seven hundred pounds of hay to the acre, or less ; so when occupied as a grazing country, as it has since been, it could easily be over-stocked. There is much land covered with sage brush, which indicates more soil and moist- Life on the Plains. 41 ure, and where it pjrows rank, and the ground can be irrigated. Anything agreeable to the climate can be grown in profusion, if not destroyed by grasshoppers or other insect pests. There is timber on the mountain ranges and s-purs, but often so distant and scrubby, that it is said, in some localities telegraph poles cost twenty dollars, or more, each. Saw quite a number of wagon trains and of Indians ; met quite an emigration from California and Oregon to the states ; saw some prairie dogs, wolves, jack-rabbits and sage-hens, and heard of buffalo and other large game. We took turns at cooking, while others brought the water and fuel — which is generally buffalo or cattle " chips," or sage brush. A couple at a time relieved the regular herders, by herding the mules mornings and evenings ; and one at a time guarded the train at night — though he often slept all the same, so that one of the boys offered to take the whole job, declaring "it did not tire him any." The same degree of daring and low cunning necessary in successfully stealing a single horse in the states, or in robbing a store, a customer, or client, if displayed here on the plains by a secret gang of a dozen men, could have captured our whole train most any night, notwithstanding we were all armed with rifles and revolvers. Moreover, the fact that train animals are seldom molested, though feeding a mile or two from camp, and perhaps 300 from even a military post, shows the Indians to be more honest, or else more cowardly, than is generally repre- sented. Suppose the working masses in the states should rise in their necessity and might, strip off their ill-gotten possessions, and banish to the plains by themselves the "charitable" tribes among them, who live chiefly by their wits, tricks and hidden vices off of other men's toil, with none to labor, earn, produce for them, or to watch and make them afraid ; they thus being compelled to work, steal, or starve, and the country was their own! Could a train, as inviting as ours, pass through their country without tribute or plunder ? Not much ! And instead of an occasional grave with a head-board rudely marked," killed by Indians," etc., whole grave yards would appear. The trip to me was a novel and, on the whole, a pleasant 42 Out "West. one ; an agreeable enougli company : nobody striving for trouble or imposition, never a figlit, or even a hand on a pistol for protection or for crime, and I disremember hearing the captain or j^roprietor speak scarcely an angry or insolent word — certainly not to me. Oiir journey ended. Mr. White told our Moses (Geo. Striugham) to " take the boys to the best hotel in town," where he boarded us at three dollars a day, while un- loading, etc., in a storehouse he had procured to dispose of his goods ; he having left us several days back to be here in ad- vance. This was also his first experience in the West. (43) CHAPTER III. SaltLake City and Yalley. — Salt Lake. — Climate and bathing.— Eemained a month. — Then made a trip of a month on the plains. — Caught in a blizzard. — Sixty-two frozen mules for breakfast, Oct. 14th. — A rough tramp of 180 miles in the snow. — Back to Salt Lake. — Dreaming of home ! — As to the hardshijis of trains snow-bound in the mountains. — Work for a Mormon dignitary. — The "mighty Host of Zion." — How they whijjped Johnson's U. S. Army in 1861, etc. — Mountain- Meadow massacre, etc. — Leave Salt Lake on horseback for St. George, 350 miles south. — Takes a month. — Mormon farms and villages. — Their system of settlement, etc. — Climate, soil, mountains. — A month in Si". George as '"Dodge's Clerk." — On an Indian raid. — Made a trip to the extreme southern settlements. — What for ! — Cotton country. — Mountain of rock salt. — A true, comprehensive description of the Mormons. — How they live and deal with each other and with Gentiles. — Their religion and government, as they keally ake in practice. — Their virtues, crimes and danger. oALT Lake City, witli its gardens, trees and rippling brooks, spread out in a spacious valley, made fruitful and charming by a cheerful climate, water and industry, presented a beautiful, pleasing appearance to us, having seen little else than bleak, burnt, craggy desolation for twelve hundred miles and sixty days. — The valley to the north extends about a hundred miles and is about eight or ten miles wide, on an average. This is water- ed mostly by Bear and Webber rivers, which empty in Salt Lake. To the south the valley reaches about seventy miles, averaging, say, two miles in breadth, is watered and fertilized by the river Jordan, also emptying into Salt Lake, where the waters of this and Bear river, besides other streams, evaporate, leaving their salts in the lake ; it, like the dead sea, ha^-ing no outlet. The country is alkaline or salty, and the atmosphere is very light and dry ; the former accounts for the vast amount of salt in the lake, and the latter for the evaporation in excess of that in a moist climate. Is 4200 feet above the sea, 90 miles long, 20 to 25 miles broad, 15 to 20 feet deep. Six pails of water are said to make one of salt. Health seekers should note that here is a mild, dry mountain climate with sea breeze, and bathing in cold brine or warm sulphur, C44) All about the Mormons. 45 I bathed in the famed warm sulphur springs, where Dr. Robinson was assassinated for desiring to own them by the U. S. laws, when the brethren wanted it ; attended the theatre and church meetings ; — remember hearing Vice-President Kimbal from the pulpit tell the choir to "sing something lively, as he enjoyed that kind of music best even at a theatre." Ate apri- cots, peaches and other fruit from the acre gardens that adorn nearly every residence in town. There being a stream of mountain water flowing on either side of every street for irri- gation, etc. Talked with men from the mining and stock regions of the surrounding country, who come for hundreds of miles on business, to winter, and spend their money in enjoy- ment here, as a place, that surely has many attractions, even as a permanent place of residence. Remained here about a month, part of the time driving team about town ; then for another month drove a six mule team in a grain supply train for the Overland Stage Company at forty dollars a month, until caught, the 13th of October, in a blizzard on the plains ; were confined to our beds in the wagons for two nights and a day ; nor could we scarcely move on account of the cold and the snow drifting in and over us. When the storm abated we crawled out, broke up feed boxes for fires, and went to look for the stock — 124 heads; were in the brush (on Green river), where we had left them, but just half of them, 62, were frozen to death, and in all the ghastly attitudes of cruel agony. Left the wagons where we had camped, drove the remainder of the mules to a valley, six or seven miles away, where it was quite warm, but little snow had fallen, and left them for the winter in care of providence, who never tempers the winds for an unfortunate and abused mule. Three or four Mormon teams were engaged to take us with them to Salt Lake — 180 miles ; but had to walk, camp and sleep out in the snow, a foot or two deep. There is nothing terrible about sleeping in the snow or a snow storm for a night or two, with plenty of blankets, no matter how cold it is ; but to continue doing so and travel, the blankets get wet or damp, so that one dreams of home, s^veei home ! In accordance with the custom of the country, as a sub- stitute for taxes, prisons, courts and lawyer gangs, I had a 46 Salt Lake City and Utah. navy-revolver up to this time ; but never having needed it, and it being cumbersome, disposed of it, and have never owned a fire-arm since, except a shot gun ; though on a few occasions have found it necessary to carry a pistol for protection in kind. There is scarcely any necessary occasion to lose horses or mules by cold or starvation in the far West. If they are not over-worked, they will stand any oue storm. And there are geuial valley's of sunshine, and grass in sight or accessible from most anywhere ; also rabbits and other game are quite plentiful for parties short of rations. Therefore, the heroism (?) of men in command, for living on starved and frozen mules and for other hardships endured in the mountains, is a humbug and out- rage. The mules should have been rollicking in a friendly vale, and the party living on jack-rabbits and venison. Found the weather warm and pleasant when we got to Salt Lake Valley again. Being acquainted with a young man (working for Gen. D. H. Wells) who wanted a vacation for a week or two, I took his place— hauling lumber from a saw- mill to town. Wells was third in authority in the Mormon Church and Masonic Order ; had two wives (sisters), at this, his principal home, where they lived in good style, and several others in other parts of town. His appearance to an unadvised outsider was that of a clever gentleman. He commanded the Mormon Militia, which were now having their annual training. I had bought a horse and saddle — to travel on my own hook to learn more of this famed secret brother- and sisterhood of masons — loaned it to one of the boys to attend the training near town, and the saddle blanket being a fancy one, the General himself did not disdain the use of it from a wandering Gentile, in com- manding the "mighty host," the same that "whipped the United States" under the renowned Albert Sidney Johnson, President Buchanan and company, in 186L Or rather, "God did it,"' the secret brethren say. To an inexperienced outsider, it is a real mystery how Brigham Young and secret brethren out-generalled, out-dip- lomated, out-witted and stripped our Government agents, and people in that squabble. They had done it before, and have done it ever since. All about the Mokmons. 47 Those who worship secrecy, tact and success alone, should plant flowers on his grave and revere the name of Brigham Young. They had committed many excesses and horrible crimes against outsiders in their secret order and tribal ways ; openl}^, as well as secretly, dominated, repudiated and defied the Government, while Brigham Young was made Governor of the Gentiles in Utah, (being already chief of the Mormons), John T>. Lee, Indian Agent, etc., etc. They having more influence at Washington than full-fledged American Citizens, because they had brother masons there — sent by thoughtless outsiders. At last to appease public sentiment, by throwing dirt in its eyes, and to blindly aid and assist the secret brethren, an army of near 10,000 men, richly equipped with wagon and pack trains and supplies for fe7i years, was sent out to Utah ; with the usual catering claptrap and out-cry of "enforcing the laws and crushing the Mormons." Then all was turned over ~ almost given to the before declared enemy, but now "repenitent and industrious citizens," who, meanwhile, among other outrages, butchered in cold blood 130 men, women and children, appro- priating entirel}^ the wealthy emigrant train, stock and fortunes of their victims. All this with the utmost impunity and almost in sight of a court-house of justice (?). That was a white man's secret order, tribal tribute, led by a ring favorite of the Government— John D. Lee. And right there to-day is one of the "grave yards ! " Wagons, mules, harness and fire-arms were most needed by the brethren at that time in their business. They worked diplomacy, tact and treachery on the Kentucky-California- bound emigrants, thus disarming them, but could not secure their property in peace without killing them, so they could not be "revengeful and make trouble." But they could get the Government trains securely by dip- lomacy and secret intrigue, without killing a man, woman or child, though they paid a trifle of the money, meanwhile filched from the Government in the deal. The army was disbanded at Camp Floyd when the sup- plies had been brought to their doors, where they were "sold" to the brethren, whom Ofiicials are secretly sworn to assist 48 S.\LT Lake City and Utah. and befriend, and whose secrets they are sworn to "ever conceal and never reveal." Wagons worth two hundred and fifty dollars there then sold for fifteen dollars. Arms worth twenty dollars for two dollars, etc., etc. Brigham "bought" $30,000 worth of pork at one cent a pound, and then re-sold it to Gentiles at sixty cents a pound, etc., etc. Much of the supplies had just previously been bought here of the Mormons at fabulous prices. Great quantities of leather, harness, cavalry equipments, clothing, blankets, small stores, etc., etc., etc., were likewise turned over to the secret brethren, who dominate and direct the action of Government and Courts within their influence. I was told that they were even allowed to run off Govern- ment mules by the band, and then sell them back to the Govern- ment thus prostituted, which then turned them over to the brethren for a song. The Mormons were thus greatly assisted in their business at the expense of the people, and their era of prosperity began at these fruitful victories over the Govern- ment. Mormons believe this out-come to have been secretly fixed, when the expedition was gotten up and sent to them. The matter of the Mountain-Meadow massacre, and other like tributes to secrecy, they postponed with secret influence at court, for twenty years, until Eoyal Master Lee had gotten in bad standing in the order, and his life was about run out anyhow, when the brethren consented to give what was left of him alone up, as a sacrifice to appease and blind the people ; as if they had lost their secret influence at court, and justice now prevailed. This was to be a receipt in full for such cowardly, treacherous, brutal murder for plunder of hundreds of disarmed men, women and children by well-knoivn masons under the shadow of Court-houses of Justice (?) and the United States flag. That company of emigrants could successfully defend themselves against the Indians, but could not do so against a gang of secret ring favorites in the Government. Nor can any- body when the courts are thus subverted. About November first, started on my travels, horseback, to Q Hi d o « o 50 Salt Lake City and Utah. the Soutli. Weather in the v;illey was Avarm and delightful, while snow could be seen drifting and Hying high up on the mountain peaks. One of these, Mt. Nebo, was said to be over 11,000 feet above the sea. A hundred miles, and I was out of Salt Lake Yallej, over the summit into a mountainous desert region (with some watered spots) sloping towards the Colorado river, some four hundred miles to the South. Salt Lake Valley is the only farming country of any mag- nitude between the 98th longitude and California, except far to the North. This valley is thickly settled by the Mormons, with a considerable number of Gentiles at and to the North of Salt Lake City. The Mormons live in villages with extensive lots for gar- dens and fruit purposes ; have their farming and pasture lauds fenced in common, and dig and own their water ditches like- wise. They adopted this system of living in towns as a protection against the Indians ; but as they are confined to small farms of say, twenty-five acres, of which there are ten to fifteen thousand, the disadvantage in living apart from them is off-set by the saving in fencing, and social and school advantages gained. "Wherever a body or spot of soil is susceptible of irrigation, there is a Mormon village. The principal ones of these settle- ments, for some 75 miles after leaving Salt Lake Valley, are Filmore— once the capitol — and Beaver, on Salt Creek and twenty-five miles from the Mountain-Meadow graveyard. St. George is 350 miles from Salt Lake and on the Kio Virgin ; there being some small settlements between Beaver and St. George. Wandering along leisurely, reached St. George in about a month from Salt Lake ; found it a fruitful oasis in the desert, nicely situated and laid out and of considerable importance and population. Snow seldom lays on the ground ; a climate semi- tropical and as salubrious as can be found most anywhere ; en- joyed the best appetite here I ever had. The soil is mostly a bed of sand, cleared off sage-brush, and water brought on it at an expense in labor of twenty to thirty dollars per acre. All about the Mormons. 51 Remained here a montli with and working for an intelligent Yankee Saint, and they called me " Dodge's Clerk." This is how I clerked : Hauled lumber and wood from a mountain, twenty to thirty miles off; Avent on an Indian raid of a few days with a local company, commanded by a General ; anyhow, he was a clever and agreeable man for the occasion, as were also the others of the company. Stock had been stolen from the range by the Navajoes, and the company went to overtake them, but did not succeed. Took a load of grape roots, cuttings, fig trees, and other things, to sell in the then extreme southern settlements on the Muddy Creek, 130 miles away, and twenty from the head of navigation on the Colorado river. Cotton was being raised here. Sold out mostly on Sunday, as the saints had gathered to worship and do business. Remember their singing, " Hard times come again no more." Sunday is the principal business or trading day in mining camps and other new settlements with the Gentiles also. The religious phase of the Sabbath or Sunday question, as to a particular day or date, is a tangled muddle anyway. About every day in the Aveek is claimed as such by some numerous sect or people. In studying the question we find, that the changes in official calendars and the difference in time, on account of the motion of the earth, makes it too difficult to solve, to be honestly certain as to time, so it seems captious for people to quarrel as to the same. Let the general govern- ment name the day, as one of rest for man and beast, and en- force its reasonable observance. An island and longitude in the Pacific Ocean, according to our official calendar, has two Sundays together for any vessel sailing West, and none for those sailing East. They must drop or gain a Sunday in passing this longitude. I also got a load of rock salt at a mountain, or mount, of salt there. Much of it is so clear, one can read print through it some inches thick. Is mined with drill and powder. "Salt Deposits in Nevada. — Vast Fields of Pure Rock Salt to be Found in Lincoln County. In Ijincoln County, on the Rio Virgin, is one of the most remarkable deposits of rock salt on the continent, says the Dayton News Reporter. It 52 Salt Lake City and Utah. is found in hUls 500 feet above the level of the valley, and chemically pure. Blocks of it over a foot square are so transparent that one may read a pajjer through them. So solid is this suit that it must be blasted out the same as if it were rock. This deposit of salt lies about three-quarters of a mile west of the Rio Virgin and three miles south of the Mormon village of St. Thomas. There a body of this salt is exposed for a length of nearly two miles, which is about half a mile wide and of unknown dejjth. The dejjosit runs north and soxith and is seen on the surface for a distance of over nine miles. In places the canons have cut through it to a dej^th of sixty feet. At these jjoiuts the Hiko company formerly blasted out the salt required in workiug tlieir ores. This great deposit of salt is situated at an altitude of 1,100 feet above the level of the sea. It is undoubtedly very ancient, as in one place it has been covered by a flow of basaltic rock. In other places it is covered to a depth of from one to five feet with vol- canic tufa. At Sand Springs, in Churchill County, besides the salt that may be shoveled up from the surface, there is found a deposit of rock salt fourteen feet in dtpth. This salt is as transparent as the clearest ice and does not contain a particle of any foreign or deleterioiis substance. It may be quarried the same as if it was marble. It is said that one man can quarry and wheel out five tons a dny of this salt. It is only necessary to grind it to render it fit for table or dairy u^e. Sixty or seventy mUes north of this, at the eastern base of the Dun Glen range of mountains, is the great Humboldt salt field. This is about fifteen miles long and six wide. In summer, when the surface water has evaporated, salt to the depth of three or four inches can be scraped up from the surface. Beneath the surface is a stratum of pure rock salt of unknown depth. This rook salt is so hard, that in order to get it out rapidly it is necessary to blast it. Were a branch railroad to run to one of these deposits, salt woi;ld soon be a cheaj) article in the United States. As there are in the same localities great quantities of soda, borax and other valuable minerals, it is probable that the day is not far distant Avhen some of them will be tapi^ed by branch railroads, which could be cheaply laid down through the level districts. " My route to and from the Muddy settlements and Salt Bank lay mostly along the Kio Virgin " river " (as most an}- stream is called in sections where water is scarce), the road crossing it in the quick-sand many times. The Indians (Piutes) had in cultivation a fcAv patches on this stream, and the Saints had started a settlement, or two. But the bottom is too narrow to till, except in garden patches. With the exception of bunch-grass, very wide apart, some sage and grease brush, the surrounding country is a barren, dreary, rocky waste. There is no soil on the highlands, even All about the Mormons. 53 if there was water. — The principal Avagon route from Salt Lake to Los Angeles, Cal., leaves the Rio Virgin by the most rugged hill I have ever seen to be travelled over much with wagons. It is two or three miles to the top, steep, and crossed with ledges of rock. While I was passing it, gazing at one of a train, high up on the hill, as the wagon was being tugged along with a well doubled up team ; it broke loose, tumbled back, scattering itself between there and the bottom. I passed over the same route afterwards. The Mormons, as a people, are as prosperous, contented and happy, perhaps, as any other people, who have to earn by toil about all they get, and their government is so administered that they come very near getting, holding and enjoying all they make ; unless the tenth of what they produce, that goes for their general protection, welfare and enlargement, be excepted. Inasmuch, as they would need no costly protection, if polygamy was not openly practiced by the few, so long as similar secret order governments of oath-bound brotherhoods (called " masons" etc., instead of "church") are tolerated by the people. The most of the Mormons dislike polygamy, and it may die. But it is not the worst feature of the system of Mormon- ism, as to the general government and the full-fledged citizens of the same, if the government is to be supreme and un- controlled by secret alien kingly governments within. There are but few salaried officials in the Mormon govern- ment — even the bishops draw no pay. The more able and am- bitious frequently acquire considerable and exceptional fortune, but it is made by rugged industry, or filched from Gentiles. They are not permitted to trick or rob each other of their property, under any pretext. Lawyers are kept from poAver entirely —they are treated as pests, as grass-hoppers and chine- bugs ; except sometimes in dealing with outsiders. It is the business of the officials and dignitaries of the order to counsel, advise and protect any faithful brother in ordinary business pursuits and in their troubles with each other and with out- siders. In case of trouble with outsiders, assistance is extended in usual and natural ways, and also by machinery of the secret order, which is worked in the dark. 54 Salt Lake City and Utah. They are a secret masonic order of various degrees, and boiiud together with masonic oaths, although there is nothing secret, sly, or mj'sterious in the first degree, whereby any per- son, and Indians in large numbers, are taken into the "church" or order Avithout hesitation. They constitute a secret, mystic and complete government within, and distinct from that of the state ; an irresponsible and foreign government, to ivhich fhey sivear, with masonic oaths, supreme allegiance. But yet they are allowed to join in maintaining the forms and pomp of courts and government of the Gentiles, for use in dealing with and filching the outsider, and as a fortress of pro- tection against them. Making of it a cat's-paw, a tool, a trap, a blind, a handy machine, worked and controlled by their secret, oath-bound obligations in the dark, where five men may overcome and override five thousand true citizens, which is vevj fine for the secret brethren. But the Gentile, or outsider, must suffer accordingly, for he has no assurance of security or justice, when treated or done for by either of the courts and governments thus managed and controlled in the dark. The)' are the power behind the throne, though it may be played so fine that, if the victim be ignorant, he does not understand it, and will blindly vote to sustain it. About the only verdicts rendered by the courts of Utah against Mormons in good standing and influence in the order, are secured by special legislation of Congress, which would be overridden were Utah a state; and even in these comparative few cases, they have frequently beaten the cases against them by their secret influence in appeals, just as other masons do. Polygamy is but a red rag of masonry, the spears and knives to stab the government are hid behind it. The Chinese, Jews and Indians, in the United States, also cherish, maintain, and are governed by, a distinct alien govern- ment of their own; a state within the state. But they have the modesty to refrain, at least openly, from taking part in the government of the Republic. They do not intrigue and scheme for office under it, or to judge and govern anybody but them- selves, which they do by their own alien governments. They love their big sun-flower titles, and pagan pomp and "mysteries" of idolatry, and worship the shades of Mogul Kings. All about the Mormons. 55 Tbougli such people be naturalized or boru iu this country, they are not real citizens at heart of the Republic, but are practically foreigners, aliens, owing first allegiance and belong- ing to their own peculiar, secret, class and tribal governments, ivherein is their supreme authority and laic, tvhich they are sworn by horrible, blood-curdling, masonic oaths and penalties, to clierish and obey! What then becomes of our Government with these masons in office ? Where is there any standing room for it with them in command ? They cut it up and prostitute it as they do the marriage relation, and wave it as another red rag — iu another phase of their play —to divert the sight and sense of the people, where- by they are thus shaded to get in their deadly work in the dark, thus working for universal conquest. The religious phase and the polygamy rag of Mormonism is but lightly considered by the more intelligent Mormons. It is their Government that interests and attaches them. The}' do not conceal this in individual discussion. They know the cor- ruption and jjrostitution of our Government so well, that, instead of joining to reform and cl-ean it, they declare it an "ignominious and hopeless failure." And we must honestly concede that this is j^artl}' true. For, with the boundless natural wealth from ocean to ocean, the country even already stocked with buffalo, elk, deer, fish and turkey, — the mass of the people ought not to be mere slaves to unrequited toil, corruption and tyranny. And could not have been much less prosperous under any other form of government. The Mormons, indeed, even under their masonic-pagan theocracy or kingdom, have been more prosperous than the mass of real American citizens that have surrounded them. This is also true of other secret masonic gangs elsewhere, and among the people surrounding them. But they have stabbed, drawn, sucked and fattened on the heart's blood of the Government and the people. In.deed, the prosperity of many an individual of the gang 56 Salt Lake City and Utah. represents the downfall, ravage and misery of hundreds of the people, — men, women and little children. Such "prosperity'' (?) need not be boasted of to be be- lieved. There are too many victims who too keenly feel and suffer the/act of such "prosperity" continually At heart they do not like or respect even the form, or the great and beautiful sentiment of our government, which is the religion of real liberty loving Americans, who, in the face of all history and suffering, will fight to maintain it, work and vote to reform it, as their only hope for liberty and justice, and will never give it up for any gang, though they irrigate the ground with their blood ! Disdaining and detesting both the spirit and form of our government, as not secret, selfish, pagan and kingly enough for them, therefore, whenever they take part in it, it is not for it to work evenly, or to reform it, or clean it of the gang ; but to secretly conspire to corrupt, debauch and use it for a cat's- paw to filch the people, and for a fortress to shield them against their victims. But while scheming and playing for place and power in it, with brazen sarcasm, they sing patriotic songs and wave the American flag. A strong, centralized government like England or Germany might, if any, safely tolerate various foreign secret government rings within their own, as they cannot exert as much influence and power there as in a republic. Yet these governments have had to watch and keep down all secret, alien govern- ments and rings within their own, in order to keep their own power supreme and from being defied and overthrown. I believe, that belonging to any secret sworn brotherhood, disqualifies a person for the holding of any public ofiice in Germany and other governments in Europe, Central and South America. Consequently Jews and other masons belonging to secret alien governments, are punished for their crimes like other people. This has to he so in republics if ilicy are to endure. All who vote or hold office under the general or state govern- ments, should be dependent on that government alone for protection, justice and government ; so that all would be All about the Mormons. 57 interested in its reform and purity; making the one govern- ment simple, safe, supreme and evenly just to all aliJce. Let those who are so selfish, clannish, crafty, sly-sneaking in the dark, grasping pagan and kingly as to not be satisfied with this, live and do as other and legal aliens do. For, aliens and often traitors they are. "When bad men combine [even by blood-curdling oaths in the dark], the good must associate, else they will fall one by one, an unpitied sacrifice in a contemptible struggle." "A monarchy may be free, whilst a repubUc maybe a tyranny." "When "servile millions kiss the spoilers' rod, crouch at their feet and tremble at their nod." As to the Mormon wing or phase of this vital subject, let us not forget that, like other communities, multitudes and orders, there are good, bad and indifferent people among them. A Gentile might live and deal with them for years without any trouble, if himself be just, and he does not oppose their system. Being friendly towards them, should he get into trouble with another Gentile or a Mormon ; the Mormon courts, as well as the other, are open to them. As they are both controlled by the masons, they stand a better show for justice in the more simple Mormon court, and if justice is what they want, both being Gentiles, they are quite surely satisfied with the result therein, which is not delayed, and they do not have to hinj it ' there being no " bar." But if one is outspoken, or otherwise earnestly opposes their secret order system of government, he does not stand the ghost of a show for justice in Utah. In the case of a Gentile against a Mormon, or a Mormon against a Gentile, the outsider stands just the same show for justice that he does outside of Utah in a court or courts con- trolled by members of secret order brotherhood governments. Any observer can know, and all voters should know, the kind of a show that is, without learning by hard and miserable experience. " The whole machinery of the state, all the apparatus of the system of government, and its varied workings, end in simply bringing twelve good men into a box." As a rule, the Mormons deal honestly among themselves ; 68 Salt Lake City andUtah. sometimes, however, they have to kill or imprison one of their number for horse stealing, betrayal, or other crimes against a brother. Thoy transact their business and run their courts ivithout lawyers or other vermin, to which they owe much of their prosperity and peace. But this could he done just as well by the 2)cople under our form of government. No honest court re- quires a lawyer in or about it. And the same price paid for their scalps by the state, as that now paid for more human and less destructive vermin, would make them harmless. The Mormons have no orthodox or salaried preachers. Everybody is expected to be able to render something of a moral speech in meeting, and, being raised to it, they are more apt and able in that way than other congregations. They ab- hor profanity, and think about all Gentiles to be immoral and profane. It was said by some, that I was the only Gentile they knew, who was not profane. They tell of mules, gotten of Gentiles, that could not be managed, or made to pull, unless swore at by note. Their poor and distressed are liberally provided for from a general fund ; there are none of them beggars. A large portion of them are emigrants from other countries and their children ; there are some from every section of the United States and Canada. The foreigners are principally English, Danes, Welsh, Norwegians, etc. As the Mormons settled in Utah in 1848, and were quite a body before in Mis- souri and Illinois, a majority of them were " born in the church" or order, and on American soil. They are masons therefore more of necessity than of choice, —which cannot be said of Gentile masons, etc. They are now about 300,000 strong. The founders, chiefs, etc., were and are Yankee free-masons. They can pay to their brethren in Congress, courts and army big sums of money for bribery purposes and their ^mutual masonic obligations, and death penalties for betrayal insures secrecy and safety ; and they are bound to assist their brethren without pay. The Mormon endowment house ceremonies, oaths, obliga- tions, penalties, etc., etc., are masonic. The founders of the church-order set themselves up as an- other Moses or Mohammed, and their Sunday school books ill '„i'i>': P W Eh P w Ph (69) 60 Salt Lake City and Utah. teacli it as truth as to Moses. Their secret order " church " is, like other speculative or spurious masonry, founded on hum- bug pagan "mysteries." Their bible being discovered and attached with about the same silly legend as that of the "Great- est jewel and mystery" of speculative masonry. They have the "mystery" bible of their own, but use ours principally, in which they are well versed. They have much of it memorized. They are much given to j^rayer, and always pray for salvation through Jesus. Not all of their dignitaries practice polygamy, and, according to the records of the "courts of justice," there are but few cases of polj^gamy in Utah. But according to my observations and more reliable information than ring-ridden courts, about one married man in ten of them is a polygamist. Though, for saying this of any one of them, he could prosecute me for libel at the people's expense, and say, " Damn you, prove it," and I could not establish the plain fact in the courts. Such is their secret influence and power at court. And it is as wide and extensive as masonry. The greatest comfort and protection a polygamist's wife has is in her children (they call the other wives of their father "aunt"). A boy will not see his mother abused or discarded if he can help it, which they often do. Still several sisters will frequently marry one man, one after the other, and the latter ones ought to know pretty near what they are about— as near as you or I could tell them. Those of the saints who have travelled about and abroad, preach of the immorality and depravity, and dangers of the outside world, and — like in other secret lodges — picture Utah and the folds of the order as the only place where virtue and truth is regarded and protected. They also make it appear, that all those who have taken an active part against them at any time, have been accursed by God and man ; that many of them have repented, and beg of them in humility and tears for mercy and forgiveness. If according to the courts there is so little polygamy in Utah, or if it be no crime ; nor a crime to make an occasional killing and tribute against outsiders — as is done by the gang everywhere with imj)unity — then the Mormons are an except- ionally moral, virtuous, civil, cheerful, industrious and prosper- All about the Mokmons. 61 ous people. By the court records tliey are most exception- ally virtuous. And if these questionable deeds are the work of a small element only, which I believe to be the case, then they are that anyway, and in truth. In four respects the Mormons are as far in advance of the Gentiles, as John Brown was of the republican party. First. — In that they permit no gangs of parasites or artful tricksters to practice among them, so they all know and understand their laws alike ; cases are judged and decided on their merits ; and not being so many middlemen, they get the profit of their labor. Second.— They first made woman suffrage universal, and they were no more "insulted" at the polls in Utah than at the post-offices. Those who would keep politics too secret, corrupt and unclean for their wives, sisters and daughters to know or touch, when their welfare and happiness is so greatly depend- ent on its purity, and who think it more out of place for an American woman to vote, than for an English woman to be chief ruler and make political speeches, should not complain when they reap the result. Third. — They carry out and enforce their temperance principles and laws, without flaws, quirks or foolishness. There are hardly any saloons, gambling, or prostitution known in their community. Fourth. — In their management of the Indians. And yet, an outsider really has not equal security or even justice anywhere where their alien government or secret in- fluence controls the government or courts, as could be vividly shown by the miserable experience of many falsely imprisoned, or robbed of their property, and by the bleached bones of so many others that have been " run over the ridge." Having, b}^ secret intrigue, conquered the United States Army, etc., when in their infancy, and Congress and the courts ever since, they have strong hopes of complete control and of universal conquest. Polygamy is their red rag in the conflict. CHAPTER IV. Travellers I met in Ftah. — Leave Utah for tlie Los Angeles, Cal., countrv. — The company I travel with. — Danites. — The Indians on the road. — A Mormon "miracle." — Indian dialect. — Sand storm. — A mine in the desert. — The region from St. George to California. — Arizona. — San Bernardino. — Los Angeles, and that coi;ntry.— Climate, soil, people and business in 1867 and 1884:. — Land, titles, etc. On the roads, or by the ways in Utah, I met, or fell in with — besides the local travel — wandering Gentiles like myself, army deserters — who were aided by the Mormons, as they hate and detest the Government they prostitute — companies of miners on horse- and mule-back, with camping outfits, from Montana, Idaho, Arizona, Mexico and other sections, bound for other fields abounding in riches for them, in their imaginations and faith. Years afterwards I again met some of the very same in other places, they were still prospecting. Soon after returning to St. George with my load of salt, in January 1867, I left the Mormon country for Los Angeles, Southern California, 450 miles distant from St. George, and 800 miles from Salt Lake Cit}", much of which is wagon-wheel measurement. The company I travelled with was composed of three Mormons with their families, going to join another wing of the church which is presided over by a son of the prophet Joseph Smith, and is gathered principally at St. Bernardino, Cal., — the}' do not practice polygamy, which, I may here state, is not taught in the teachings of Joseph Smith, their founder. They considered it prudent to call their departure "a visit," until they got well on their journey, on account of the Danites of masonry. Also a wandering Canadian; a mining expert — on his way to report to his company at San Francisco as to the mines recently discovered in south-eastern Nevada ; and Mr. Clark, with a hand, as he had two wagons with six-horse teams. He was chief of the party : a Mormon and polygamist, a clever man of exceptional large and wide practical intelligence and experience in the West and the world. Was going to Los Angeles for some stores and general store-goods for himself (62) California. 03 and neighbors. Had made the round trip to Los Angeles from Salt Lake or other settlements over this route twenty times on the same kind of business. The Indians living on the road, knowing him as their friend and customer, were glad to see him and called him "Dan." He left corn with them— giving them a portion — to feed on his return ; as we were now travelling over a vast mountainous, never to be reclaimed desert waste, destitute of soil, grass and even sage-brush in large portions of it for 250 miles, and very destitute of water, so each wagon was provided with a barrel for carrying water, and the animals had sometimes to do with corn or barley, without water or grass. At the springs and camping places are living or camping little bands of the most destitute and degraded Indians I had or have ever seen. They live mostly on a species of cactus, roots, snakes, lizards, etc. The shelled corn we gave them they would but slightly roast in the aslies, and flour they would make into a half cooked mush, and the whole group, big and little, eat it hot out of the kettle with their delicate fingers, which they apparently never wash. Are composed largely of renegades from different regular tribes, they being in bad standing and more or less out-lawed. Whenever we made a camp where there was some grass anywhere near, "Dan" would have the Indians turn over their bows (backed with sinew) and arrows (their only weapons) to him, and then turn our stock over to them to take out to grass, herd, and bring them in in the morning, saying, that if they wanted to run them off, they would do so anyway, and were more apt to steal them if he acted more distrustful towards them by the little guarding that we could do in a part of us going with them ; besides, they valued him as an old friend and regular customer. He had always thus trusted even these renegades, and they had never betrayed him. And it was their country — all they had in the world. After leaving St. George we forded the Kio Virgin river twenty-eight times — sometimes following in the quick-sand bed of it for a road— before we left it to climb the big hill to the west. This done, we had to return the stock way down back to the river for grass and water, as it was twenty-five miles 64: Utah to Arizona. to the next water and grass, over a rocky waste, which camp was on the stream Mudxhj, that was settled on far to the south-east by the Mormons. Forty or fifty hard looking and nearly naked Indians gathered about us here, as was the case at the camping places beyond. The next stretch to water was about seventy miles to Vagas creek. Then water got so plenty that there was a little spring every twenty or thirty miles, till we got to a forty-five mile stretch, and there was no feed for three or four miles around the end of it. The next dry stretch was fifty miles, followed by one of only thirty-five, which brought us down to the Mohave creek, where it was called the "fork of the road." (160 miles from Los Angeles). One fork leading south into Arizona to Camp Cada, Prescot, etc. It being travelled by big freight teams, with five hundred dollar wagons, having high wheels and tires four or five inches wide for the burning sands of this Colorado desert, and often loaded with even hay for government stock hundreds of miles away in Arizona; government trains and troops, to rob the Indians out of such a country, and to enrich the gang ; a stage-coach and the mail, prospectors' outfits, etc. We took the other fork leading to the sea shore. We passed — about a hundred miles back in the desert— an abandoned barren quartz mine, that had been extensively prospected with shafts, tunnerls, etc. ; and this without an expensive quartz mill. In order to sell mining stock, it is usually necessary to buy and be at work on a big mill — the bigger the better — as an assurance that the thing will pay to work. While the Sheriff was returning to San Bernardino from attaching the mine (?) for labor and supplies - as is also the usual thing — he was killed by the Indians. A child in our party was taken sick so bad, we thought it would die on the road ; so the brethren gathered around it and performed their sacred rite of " Laying on of hands " with prayer ; and as in a day or two the little saint was running about, their faith was kept whole. This "miracle" may be in their Sunday-school books now, and highly colored, to strengthen the faith of future generations. California. 65 One of the party had an iron ex-wagon, and of course on a rough road an axle was broken off at the shoulder. But these western mountaineers are never put back much by a mishap of that kind. In this case an unnecessary bar of iron was soon taken off the wagon, run through the wheel, and lashed to the axle. These people will set wagon tires on the road, shoe stock, make and fit most any part of a wagon without tools, except an ax, bit, chisel and monkey-wrench. Some Piute Indian words :— crovio — horse ; murat — mule ; nepute or ninnie — little ; kawit— not any ; tu-wich — very much; tiri — tired ; sco-ri — cold ; shangry — hungry ; pe-up — big ; wino — good ; spits — spring ; congaroo — run or go fast ; shot-cup — food ; muggi — give me ; pe-nacka — mineral ; camusha — another; napeas — money ; oma — you. The bottom of the Mohave (moharvey), along which we travelled for many miles, was settled in a rude way by hard looking citizens, who kept some little accommodations, canned fruits and other goods for sale, as are usually found at frequented camping places on the much travelled roads in the West. The atmosphere was now more humid, mellow, and on ac- count of the change, which in itself is invigorating, it was more bracing, and was so delightful and spring-like from here on to the coast, that I have often regretted that my lot was not cast in such a lovely clime and country. "Wild budding grape vines, green grass, — in places all over the ground, — flowers, trees, and even flowing water and singing birds could now be appreciated by us and enjoyed. No wonder Mohammed had the Moslem heaven well sup- plied with beautiful shaded rivers, green grass and flowers. A sand storm on the Mohave clouded the picture for a day, so we had to lay over on account of it. A few days travel now and we had reached and passed over the Sierra Nevada mountain range, and were in San Bernardino, where we tarried a day or two. This place contained (1867) about four thousand inhabit- ants, of Mormons, Gentiles and Mexicans, the latter being Gentiles also. It is in a valley made fertile and enjo3'able by a semi-tropical climate and a good supply of water. Wood and 5 66 Utah to Arizona. saw timber is also plentiful on the mountain near by, which is a rare advantage over most other places in this climate. It has the " wood water and grass," that the miner and camping traveller so often inquires about, also the soil necessary for independent homes. This site was included in a Mexican grant, and was bought by the Mormons in early days, for a settlement of their own. But at the time the army entered Utah to fight the Mormons and enforce the United States laws, — as was supposed by out- siders — and the Mountain-Meadow massacre, and other tributes were levied against outsiders by the secret government, of which these Mormons were subjects, the anger of the Gentiles here-abouts, together with a call or order from the Grand Worthy head of their government, made them abandon their homes here and travel in haste to join their brother subjects in arms, at Salt Lake and beyond. Notwithstanding the great disparity in numbers, arms and equipments at that time, they say " we thought that we might have to loUp the United States Army." However, the Mormons luould fight, if diplomacy, secret influence and intrigue failed in securing their enlargement ; which is not probable, so long as they can meet on their level so many secret brethren in the United States Government and courts, who are secretly sworn to befriend them. I met and talked with parties on the road, here, and at Los Angeles, who had had experience in Arizona. Many of them would praise that country as rich in minerals (and perhaps it is in a few little spots) and in fertile valleys, saying, they would soon return to their valuable prospects or interests there, etc. But on close acquaintance they would curse and swear and paw the ground, declaring that any one who could be deluded to think of living, or making anything legitimately in such a God- forsaken, howling, burning wilderness — "where it rains only sand, and the only vegetation is thorns and thistles, which differ only in variety" — should be assisted in their going, and learn their folly as they had done. And the phrase "Arizona liar" was a common one. Instead of giving the lie direct, one need only ask the gentleman "if he had been to Arizona." I now comprehended the enticing tales like that of the «a . Ma ^ ^1 ■ i, / '/ f ,\B V- fi .1 " MK)?, ", I)! A \ 1 I \ ' w \ c (67) 68 California. "bullets of gold shot by the Apaches," — the "rich mines worked and left by the Aztecs," or later by others " driven out by Indians," etc., etc. Afterwards I knew different parties, well equipped with animals, arms, provisions, money, etc., to spend many months in prospecting there, but they always left it, dead-broke, disgusted and often on foot. It seemed there was no way to learn the truth of that section, except by experience or instinct alone. How would I know that the army officers, other officials, editors, judges, and other prominent and respected men in the West, were "Arizona liars." Our parents and books did not teach it ; our lecturers and preachers did not preach it, and the papers would deny it. It seems there should be somebody, to write plain, practical and truthful accounts of places, men and things, even if they are ridiculed and stabbed and nobody care. " Truth ever lovely since the world began, The foe of tyrants and the friend of man." I noticed much good country between San Bernardino and Los Angeles — sixty miles — but little of it was then in cultiva- tion. Much of this land could then be bought for ten, fifteen or twenty dollars per acre, now it is from one to two hundred dollars an acre. The soil is mostly a bed of sand, but with water it can be made to blossom as a Moslem paradise. There are some spots, however, where corn and other grain and fruits are grown in great abundance without irrigation. A few miles East of Los Angeles I remember riding over a level sage-brush and cactus stretch of several miles in extent, and also over the roll- ing hills between town and the sea, which were thickly covered with a kind of wild rank clover ' up to my knees,' which, how- ever, would be dried up in April or May. The streets of Los Angeles (Lost Angels) follow the wind- ings of old stock trails, but there were some fine brick buildings and residences with tropical trees and gardens, that are lovely, indeed. Los Angeles was an old Mexican town of six or seven thousand inhabitants. I think a majority in the county was then (1867) Mexicans, Indians, Chinamen, etc., and that the sheriff was a Mexican. The moneyed men were Jews and secret-ring army contractors, who were making big fortunes 70 C.AilFORNTA. out of the people in their contracts for cavahy horses and all kinds of supplies, and the freighting of it into Arizona and else- where (the government spent about 4,000,000 dollars in this way, at this point, each year) ; and they acquired large bodies of land and other valuable properties accordingly. Common labor was twenty-five dollars a month. At some out-of-the-way places and at the saw-mills near San Bernardino labor was from forty to fifty dollars a month, and the favored contractors would sometimes allow outside freighters to make a few dollars by sub-contract and doing the work. The Mexican population were mostly engaged in cattle, horses and sheep. Mustangs — the common horses of the country — were sold by the band for about seven dollars a head. Large droves were being driven to the territories and the states ; were worked in- to the government service at round prices, and stage companies all over the coast were using them largely. In exceptional dry seasons the poorest of the horses have been driven over bluffs into the sea by the thousand, to save the feed for other stock. At such times, where the ranges are over-stocked, cattle, horses and sheep die by the many thou- sand in summer ; the same as they more frequently do in winter on the ranges of the north-west. '' Los Angeles, January 11th, 1884. Southern California, owing to its climatic position, being midway between the temperate and tropical, is known as Semi- Tropic CaHf ornia. It has about 280 miles of sea coast, with an average of 40 miles in width. This city is the commercial center of Southern California There are three things that soon at- tract the attention of new comers. They are, the nuld, salubrious climate, the wonderful productions of the soil and the beauty of the scenery. In speaking of the first, we notice from the signal service record that the average temperature of winter for six years was 52 degrees; for summer 67 degrees. The average difference between winter and summer is but 15 degrees. The temperature seldom gets to the freezing point in winter, or to 100 in summer. The cool sea breeze in summer gives an eveness to the temperature. There is really neither winter nor summer here but year in and year out is one continual season, similar to the o ^- O w" c Hi o I H 02 1^ 72 Califoknia. Indian snmmer of the Eastern States. Flowers bloom in pro- fnsion all the year; and, as an evidence that but little cold weather is experienced, we see sub-tropical plants growing out doors in the yards and hedges ; geraniums and French roses bud and bloom all through the year. Tomatoes bear all the year and for two or three years on the same vines. Castor beans continue to grow and bloom from year to year, until the stocks get to be as much as six inches in diameter. Sorghum continues to grow from the same stock for years. Ripe strawberrys are gathered every month in the year. All kinds of garden vegetables grow all the year. *' Spring chickens" are a misnomer here, for they are raised all the year round. The lawns, fields and bluffs are greenest in the winter months, and more hay is fed in the summer, when the earth is diy and parched, than in the winter The larger tracts of land are being subdivided into five, ten and twenty acre lots, and sold to settlers for fruit raising piu'poses. In this way the coimtry is settling up very thickly. The lands within five miles of the city sell, unimproved, for 1 00 to 300 dollars per acre ; when improved and set in trees or vines, and having had five or six years' cultiva- tion, with good dwelling and nice surroundings, they will sell at from 800 to 1000 dollars per acre Evergreen trees grow here all the year. The range of rugged mountains to the north or northeast, with their peaks covered with snow, and the blue ocean and magnificent sunsets to the south and southwest, is a fitting margin to the intervening picture. Upon a high eminence in the city we get a view of the suiTounding country. A circle of three miles in each direction from the court house will almost take in the city limits, — not all built up yet, but within that radius are 25,000 inhabitants. The sight is a lovely one. Many fine, palatial residences, with surroundings lovely as an idea, and thousands of acres stretching far away, thickly studded with orange, lemon, lime, olive, palm, cedar and cypress trees, with numerous semi- tropical plants, flowers and vines, make the scene one of rare beauty Large orchards of the English walnut, almond and other nut-bearing trees are quite common. A part of the city is built upon the bluffs, from whence a grand view of the surround- ing country can be had. The transfers of real estate within the city and county for the last two years foot up about 20,000,000 dollars. J. S. F." 74 CA.LIFORNIA. There are now many smaller towns, but similar to Los Angeles, throughout this section. Wells are bored and dug, and wind mills largely used in irrigating the land. And all the running water is appropriated for the same purpose. Notwithstanding the apparent and real natural advantages of this section of countrj^ the people, as a rule, were not pros- perous and contented. Secret gangs of lawyers in conjunction with brethren in office in the State and at Washington, had con- spired to cloud, mix, disturb and shatter the regular and legal titles to the greater part of the lands in the State; and to then, with the courts (composed of themselves), wring tribute on tri- bute from every man, woman and child who would own and till the soil. " Yes," some said to me, " one can buy land here, but he never knows when he is done buying it, or when the title is settled for certain ; that is all with the lawyers and courts, and is never really settled." " Doubt, insecurity, retarded progress, litigation without end, hatred, destruction of property, expendi- ture of money, blood-shed, all these have resulted." If ever is truly written a complete history of but the land troubles in California alone, it will be wondered that lawyers are not outlawed and destroyed — not as men but as snakes, wolves and pests to society. " The man of law Cunningly could he quibble out a flaw, And scratch men's scabs to ulcers." ics rnoM los *"GCLES,fOuNi)rri IT'S MAm stager, lis tnm.». CQUnoEo igaa. ^^jS^l^^^^j^ MISSION SAN JUAN C/(PlSIRAUS.J0MllESSOUIK.FW»l)E0l7T6. SAN LOUIS REYMISSIONHO MILES SOUTH, fOUNOtO liSS- Tropical Plants and Histoeioal Buildings. (75) OF THE UNIVERSITlf CHAPTER V. Leave Los Angeles for a new mining camp in Nevada. — The stock of a train cajitured by Indians. — "Death Valley." — Eighty-seven families, stock, etc., i^erish. — The siu'rounding region and its products. — How teamsters are revenged. — Comjjrehensive descri lotion of the mining camp. — " Hurrah ! hurrah ! we liave struck it, hurrah ! ! " — A big Indian. — How Mining Co. oflBcials steal. — Indian and white men hung. — The mode of government and trial. — ^Wages, living, business, etc. — The geological formation of mineral lodes, veins, fissures, etc., and i^lacer mines. — Prosj^ecting for and locating claims. — The right time to sell, etc. — Why mines are guarded with rifles. — How stock companies operate. — Why newspaper accounts of mines are not re- liable. — The real prices paid for mines. — How stock, etc., is made to sell. — One and a half year's experience. A.T Los Angeles I formed the acquaintance of an agent of a mining company ; lie was forwarding by freight wagons a quartz-mill and supplies to their "rich and extensive mines" at Pah Ranagat in south-eastern Nevada. This was a new and glowing mining district then— at a distance, and he easily in- duced me to go to the mines with the train having the machinery. I was to run the engine of the mill at eight dollars a day. Mr. Agent remained behind a few days to start and ac- company an outfit of four wagons, four men, and thirty-five or forty mules and horses, with mining supplies. When on their journey, having camped for the night at an alkali spring on the desert, about 250 miles out from Los Angeles, two of the men being out with the stock, some Indians swooped in on them and run them off, to eat them ; except two that struck for camp (as is quite usual), and one that was tied to a wagon. Then three of the party stayed with the wagons, while the other two returned and procured other animals. " Yet happier those we name (nor name we wrong), Who the rough seas of stormy life along Have sailed contented ; by experience taught Those ills to suffer, which their errors (or their fate) had brought. With placid hopes each torturing pang beguile, And welcome every sorrow with a smile.'' (76J Mining Camps. 77 We travelled a different road part of the way to San Ber- nardino, then took the same I have described, for about 250 miles, when we turned north for about 200 miles (wagon wheel measurement), to the mining camp of "great possibilities." After leaving the Mormon road, we found water at from twenty-five to forty-five miles travel — one of the stretches being thirty-five miles. Passed along the border of Death Valley, said to be below the sea level. "The Valley op Death. — A spot almost as terrible as the prophet's * valley of dry bones/ lies just north of the old Mormon road to California - a region thirty miles long by thirty broad, and surrounded, except at two points, by inaccessible mountains. It is totally devoid of water and vegetation, and the shadow of a bird or wild beast never darkens its white, glaring sands. The Kansas Pacific raih-oad engineers discovered [?] it, and some papers, which show the fate of the "lost Montgomery train,'' which came south from Salt Lake in 1850, guided by a Mormon. "When near Death Valley, some came to the conclusion that the Mormon knew nothing of the country, so they appointed one of their number a leader, and broke off from their party. The leader turned due west, and so, with the people and wagons and the flocks, he travelled three days and then descended into the broad valley, whose treacherous mirage promised water. They reached the center, but only the white sands, bounded by scorching peaks, met theu' gaze. And around the valley they wandered, and one by one the men died. And the panting flocks stretched them- selves in death under the hot sun. The children, crying for water, died at their mothers' breasts, and, with swollen tongues and burning vitals, the mothers followed. Wagon after wagon was abandoned, and strong men tottered and raved and died. After a week's wandering, a dozen survivors found some water in the hollow of a mountain. It lasted but a short time, when all perished but two, who escaped out of the valley and followed the trail of their former companions. Eighty-seven families, with hundreds of animals, perished here ; and now, after twenty-two years, the wagons stand still, complete, the iron-works and tires are bright, and the shrivelled skeletons lie side by side." This region produces many varieties of cactus ; some being a foot in diameter and about twenty feet high, and in spots like a thick forest. The dead trunks made good camp fires. 78 California to Nevada. There is alkali and soda in extensive banks and quite pure, so that, when it rains, the water running from it looks like milk. There is also petrified wood, chalk hills, vulcano craters and lava flows, and dry lakes, five to ten miles in extent, smooth and hard as a floor. Lizards, centipedes and Indians bask in the sunshine, each apparently contented with his lot, and sometimes there are vast swarms of grasshoppers, but they fly away. It was said, that the freighter who brought the mill, had the faculty of tricking his men out of their wages, so that on reaching Salt Lake they stole the burrs from his wagons in revenge, I found a mining district, and a county (Lincoln) had been organized, embracing the mountain spur, containng the mineral bearing quartz rock, — the highest peak (which was composed of barren quartz) being some 9000 feet above the sea— a small watered valley, fit for farming and stock raising, ten or twelve miles away, having large flowing hot sulphur springs, and enough of the adjacent country for an extensive grasshopper and lizard range, and to show big on a map. There were five little camps ; three being in the mountain, and two in the valley, — one of which was the county seat and the other had wanted to be. They each having water — both hot and cold. One of the three camps in the mountain was supplied with water from a spring, three or four miles away, at ten cents a gallon ; each of the other two had small springs. There was some timber (pine) on the mountain, and lum- ber was whip-sawed for $150 a thousand feet, also a good deal of scrub-mit-pine for fuel and producing food for the Indians. The district contained a migratory, ever changing popu- lation of about 250 men, from every quarter and station; less than a dozen women and children, and the usual complement of Indians. These Indians are simple as children, and degraded in their habits, but as proud, patriotic and jealous of their posses- sions and fame, as a subject of the white Mormon secret state. Their chief had recently met the Governor of the State (Nevada), and to impress him with their equal importance, 1-1 P I 1 79 80 California to Nevada. addressed him tlms:— "You big cliief: il/e big chief too; You own Virginia City, Austin, Carson, etc., etc. : il/e own all of this, that, and the other mountain, and all of these valleys, waters, etc., etc. ; You heap big son of a b — h : il/e all the same." There were now three quartz mills in the district, with more to follow, and most everybody had "feet" in mining claims. One had sold for $50,000, and they were singing, " hurrah ! hurrah ! ! we have struck it, hurrah ! ! ! the Gentiles have struck it in southern Utah." It was at first thought to be in Utah. Miners' wages were sis dollars a day, mechanics' eight dollars, and boss mill builders' twenty dollars. But there was not much employment to be had ; there being always an ov^" supply of men, and the pay was mighty uncertain. Merchants charged, on an average, about 300 per cent, profit on their goods, expecting this to be somewhat reduced by bad debts, as credit is seldom refused. There was no smaller change than twenty-five cents, which was the price of drinks, etc. Board, fourteen dollars a week, though "baching" was the rule at an expense of about one dollar a day. Flour, thirteen dollars a hundred pounds. Sugar, butter, coffee, at seventy-five cents a pound. Boots, thirteen dollars a pair. Grain and potatoes, ten cents a pound. Hay, fifty dollars a ton. Wagon spokes and ax handles, one dollar to one dollar and a half each. Hard lumber, one dollar and a half per square foot. There were similar mining camps, 150 miles and more away ; and Mormon settlements as near as 175 miles, which sent in their produce. The Mormons like to have mining camps spring up around them, for the market they afford them. They thus got six dollars a bushel for all their surplus wheat for several years, other produce in pro- portion. The mines, and the California and Oregon bound emigration trains, and United States troops constituted their markets. The Mormons never mine themselves, except for wages. The counsel of the order being against investing any money in mines •, knowing, that as a business it does not begin to pay, except with other people's money. There being no home influences or comforts In mining Mining Camts. 81 camj^s, the saloons are the universal place of resort, for com- pany, business and pleasure. Stores and saloons are frequently- connected. And all men are expected, as good citizens, to con- tribute towards making things lively and times good for those who do not work, by spending their money for whiskey, in gambling, and at the stores. Those who would do so freely, and in advance, stood the first show for employment, — as good as those who were secret ring brethren. An employer could thus throw money into the pockets of brethren behind the counters and tables. Men seeking employment, on going to such places, should be broke and forthwith run saloon and board bills, and let them hustle up jobs for them. Mining superintendents get a salary of about $5000 a year, and what they can safely steal ; which is in proportion to the amount of business done and money handled. They are usually ring brethren of the chief men of the company, with no business ability or character necessary for legitimate success ; but they must be cunning in their stealing and trustworthy in dividing. Expenses incurred are largely increased in the books, this is one of their ways. I knew the bookkeeper of a management that had him add one hundred per cent, to all expenses, or so it would average that. $100,000 expended in a quartz mill, can be made to blossom into $376,911.09 in the books to the out- side stock holders ; other expenses likewise. There were state and county ring machines of government here, but they were discarded by the people for the government of the plains — carried in every man's pocket, or swung to his belt. For examj)le : — an Indian having killed a white man, was, with others, captured, tried without lawbooks or lawyers, and hung ; the others being acquitted. A white man, of considerable eminence in the states, murdered another for his money ; he was likewise given a fair, open trial and hung. An employer undertakes to trick his men out of their money; knowing that he has it, one of them presents a pistol at his head, with the proposition to pay or die — he pays. A boisterous desperado undertakes to " run the town," runs against some quiet little man, who kills him in his disgust at the cowardice of the famed bullies and toughs of the camp. 6 82 CALiForiNiA TO Nevada. The people were not afraid of, or prejudiced against the professional gambler and sharp, but thej had no use for the mysterious midnight trickster and confidence man. I have noticed that the more frank, generous and honorable of men, who have had experience with the different govern- ments, prefer this government " by the people, for the people," to that of gangs of lawyers ; because secret gangs do not protect what honest industry procures. While the selfish, grasping, criminal natures, who would get on by secret intrigue and the misery they make, are wed- ded to the lawyer gang system. '^ They are never happy, except when they destroy The comfort and blessing which others enjoy." As to the geological formation of mineral lodes, veins or deposits, let the curious, as to this, imagine a mountain in a molten state ; then towards and at the surface it has become cool and hardened, with a seething, blubbering mass of molten quartz, mingled with mineral, shaken, settled or run together, still in a state of volcanic action underneath in the bowels of the mountain ; the volcanic action, being now more confined, becomes more violent, and the mountain above cracks open, in one or more fissures or cracks ; the seething, blubbering mass of quartz-rock and mineral boils and spurts up into the fissures or cracks, till their sides (" wall rock ") are smooth as glass ; it finally cools and hardens there into solid mineral-bearing quartz-rock. If it is pressed, spurted, or flows out at the sur- face of the cracks, then out-croppings are formed, and bowlders and bodies of this mineral-mixed lava are mingled with the surrounding surface of the mountain ; perhaps, in time, this is partly or completely covered with other rock, soil and vegeta- tion. Usually it appears that nearly, or all of the mineral-bear- ing rock had thus flowed out and scattered about, and the fissures or cracks had then settled back or closed from beneath, or else filled up with ordinary rock or lava, which may crop out and be scattered about also. Or the fissures, cracks, may be filled with quartz, barren of mineral ; nearly so, or except in spots (called " bonanzas " or " pockets "), or except in perpen- dicular streaks (called "chimneys"). There are plenty of ledges, fissures, etc., in quartz and mining districts that are not loded Mining Camps. ■witli metal. But gold and silver is usually formed or mixed with the character of rock, called quartz. These cracks, fissures or lodes may be very deep, farther down than has ever been reached by man, (about 4000 feet). "When deep, they are called true fissure veins, and trend in direction with the range of mountain - usually northerly and southerly. But they usually contract with depth, " pinch " or "peter out" at a short distance below the surface ; this is most always the case, if rich in the precious metals, otherwise they would not be precious. If there is no out-cropping to a ledge or lode, and it is. covered with the country or common rock, or with ground, it is called a " blind ledge " or lode. Imagine again, that the mountain, on cooling, had many surface cracks or seams (which, when leading to or springing from a main or larger one, are called " spurs ") and also cavities, caves and pockets, and that a portion of these are filled with the flowing and rolling quartz, more or less mixed with mineral. In lead districts, molten lead and rock seems to have flow- ed for many miles, filling up the holes and low places in the way. Afterwards, other flows of lava have more or less covered these deposits and formed stratas of rock over them. After- wards, earth-quakes and the wear of water may have changed the lay of the land. In a mineral district, the ledges or veins of quartz-rock — either barren or containing valuable mineral, such as gold, silver, copper, lead, etc., — also all of the bowlders, scattered bodies, filled cracks, holes, deposits, etc., showing signs of mineral, are, when discovered, each located as a mining claim and recorded. A mining claim may (in late years) embrace as much as twenty acres of gi'ound. The richest rock is, as a rule, found at or near the surface of the ledge ; though richer pockets may be found deeper down. The rich rock of the " bonanzas " struck deep in the great com- stock, was very low grade, compared with that found at the surface of the ledge. When one has a quartz claim and can find a man with money, who thinks the rock will improve, or that the ledge will widen out as depth is attained, sell it to Mm, quick. However, if the rock will pay to work, he and his partner 84 Califoknia to Nevada. can blast it out and sell it ou the dump ; have it worked by some one of the mills that are already, or will be, built, if there is a prospect of much pay rock anywhere around. Or, if it is rock that is not diflScult to work, they can put up an erasta, hitch their horses to it, and work a ton or two of rock a day themselves. But a claim that has really good prospects in sight, can be sold, for more than it is worth to work, to some gang of mining sharps who will work it off for a yet larger sum, with a " half interest " or stock game, to " raise money to develop or work it," etc. A good mine, or a good prospect even, does not need to be advertised or puffed in newspapers to find a customer. It would he foolish to ^nit up ten dollars on any- thing that might he loritten in a oieiospaj^er ahout a mine. If it is a big bargain, do not think that the owner will hunt up strangers to favor with it, or permit them to enjoy it at all. If a mine is really rich and is to be honestly worked, it is to the interest of the owners, in various ways, to keep its value hid as much as possible, and they never fail to do so. Persons that have never owned enticing property, have no idea of the midnight conspiracies, that set to work to rob the owner of such properties. The gang conspires to have the courts in the hands of secret brethren, with whom they can secretly and safely deal, and then, by hook or crook, some little technical error (?), done for the purpose to get the pro- perty in the hands of the courts. Or the gang may "jump " it, when, if they are not killed, the court comes to their assistance, by taking and keeping the case in court until the mine is work- ed out— twenty or thirty years, if necessary. For example, a clerical error (?) of, I believe, but a single luord, done in the patent to McGarahan, was excuse enough for the courts to take his mine, give it to some brethren, and keep it in court as long as the owner lived — about thirty-five years. Besides, taking all the means he could raise meanwhile. So that it is necessary to defend such property with rifles and shotguns, which is often expensive. And there are other reasons, as can be imagined, why rich strikes are concealed and not advertised. In prospecting a new locality for quartz mines, one rides through the gulches and ravines, looks for pieces of quartz or "float'' rock, which may have been washed by the elements Mining Cajvips. 85 from ledges or other bodies of it above. If any promising pieces of rock are found, the hills and mountains above where it was found are carefully looked over, to find where or what the " float " was detached from. The distance it has travelled is judged by the amount it is worn. Frequently the out-croppings, bowlders and other surface quartz, as heretofore described, have decomposed and been washed, with their gold, down into the gulches and streams, with gravel, and other dirt washed over ii-thus forming the Placer mines. There were, perhaps, one thousand mining claims located and recorded in the Pah-Ranagat district. Iliad first seen speci- mens from some of them at Salt Lake ; they were highly colored, and enticing to look at. This is one way of advertising a mining camp and particular mines : I mean, to exhibit rich pieces of ore. But the ore in this district was base ; that is, it contained besides silver, sulphur, antimony, copper, iron, lead, etc.; it being therefore refractory and costly to mill, separate and work. It was also very hard to drill and blast. Then it was a low grade ore, say ten dollars to thirty dollars in silver to the ton of rock. Pieces could be selected that would assay very high, while much of it was quite barren. There is generally one principal or main ledge in a mining district, and one only ; the rest being smaller cracks, spurs, bowlders and other little bunches of quartz. The principal ledge in this district cropped out boldly, ten or fifteen feet high in places, was two to ten feet thick, and was traced more than half a mile in length, certainly a fine prospect for a true fissure vein ; but it did not prove to be so. The country or common rock was limestone, in which formation I believe there is hardly, if ever, any true fissure veins. Granite is the most favorable formation, it being composed, in part, of quartz. Still this ledge had depth enough to produce a great deal of ore, and so had various others. But the distance to water, to which the ore and wood had to be hauled, the high price of freight and labor, and the incompetent and swindling manage- ment would not allow such rock to be worked at a profit. The discoverer of the main ledge secured the greater part of it, and sold it to a stock company for $50,000, which did 86 California to Nevada. the usual thing in expending perhaps $1,000 a day, for two years, in salaries, etc., building mills and furnaces, blasting tunnels and shafts, producing a few hundred dollars in bullion and selling stock. Suppose the management sold three and a half tons of stock to outsiders for $1,500,000, and their actual expenditure to have been $500,000, then they made $1,000,000 in two years. Moreover, had they developed a valuable mine, or struck it rich, they would have shut down just the same so as to buy the three and a half tons of stock back for about the cost of the paper and printing, and would not allow the mine to pay until this was accomplished. This done, the "bonanza" would be uncovered, bullion produced, and so magnified and adver- tised as to re-sell the stock for ten times the real value of the bonanza. Think not, that they would sell the stock or mine or any portion of it at a good bargain to strangers ! Much less that they would spend money like water in advertising and hunting up strangers to favor thus. A smaller claim (400 feet long), supposed to be of the same vein, was discovered to a man by an Indian for about fifty dol- lars, who sold it for one hundred and fifty dollars, which then went into a stock or share company. Don't know, how many "ten thousand" dollars were written in the deed, nor does a seller care. Another claim, located as an extension to this, was sold by an intelligent and practical miner for a saddle horse ; which claim also went into an eastern stock or share company, with its big-salaried officers — ignorant as Indians as to legitimate business and management. They each bought mills, etc., the first thing, as though their rock would pay to work and their saddle horse claims had been developed into true fissure veins. One of them produced three or four hundred dollars in bullion. How much these masons made by selling stock, shares, "half, quarter or tenth interest," depended on how many idiots of outsiders they found willing to trust their money to secret gentry of a charitable (?) order, thus leaping into the dark, — and how well they were fixed with money. It was the agent of one of these latter companies that I met at Los Angeles, and one or the other of them I worked for the greater part of my stay of about a year and a half in the district. Mining Camps. 87 I and another man had a contract to furnish the greater part of the timber and joice for the buikling of their quartz- mills and furnaces. It had to be sawed or squared with whip- saws. The price was one hundred dollars per 1000 feet in the woods. We could saw about 300 feet a da}-. Gave a man with three joke of oxen thirty dollars a day to snake the logs together. Then I worked in the mines at six dollars a day, and for two or three months was night watchman at the mill, etc., at seven dollars a night. The mills, etc., being completed, spoiled the sale of stock, as the rock would not pay to work, and the companies, being in debt for labor and supplies, let the property go, and the agents skipped out. They owed me about one thousand dollars, for which I had their notes, which I placed in the hands of an ex-Chief Justice of Utah for collection from the company in New York. I also corresponded with its president and agent ; got some encouragement for several years, but never got any money. There were other companies besides those noted, that operated, more or less, on other ledges in this district ; but what I have given is a fair illustration of the others and of quartz mining generally in the many other quartz districts. A few other persons besides those alluded to, made some money by selling their claims, and some others got away with a few hundred dollars, made by working for wages or on contracts. But the most of the money, made by selling claims, working for wages, or otherwise, that was not sj^end for Avhis- key, etc., was squandered in prospecting, in one way or another, as I did. There were prospecting parties out for hundreds of miles in all directions all the time, in some of which I was always in- terested. One of these went into Death Valley and beyond, thinking that it ought to contain lots of mineral, if it was "very good" for anything, as it lacked in everything else but sun- shine and sand. They found but slight prospects and returned, riding and packing the shadows of death. If artesian water can be got, and it is not salt, this valley can be made very productive, there being plenty of sand and climate. 88 California to Nev.\da. The Pah-Ranagat mining camps were entirely deserted (tlie population going to White Pine), and the county organiza- tion was abandoned, when the taxable properties would no longer sell for the salaries. It was never of any use to the people. The little watered valley now supports a small Mormon settlement. Yet there is much silver-bearing quartz in the mountain, which, with improved facilities in working the ore and in trans- portation, with honest and intelligent management, will pay to work, as a legitimate business, and pay welL This is a fair sample and example of many other districts with which I became acquainted ; so to describe them would be but to substantially repeat, what I have written as to this one. But as White Pine was " heap big " c-h-i-e-f, as to fame, excitement, population, richness of its ore, big swindles, fond hopes and regret, and as I was there from its rise till it tumbled down, I will give my information and experience briefly, concerning the same. CHAPTER VI. Tlie mines, continued. — Exciting reports from a distant mountain. — Outfit one of a party to go. — What he wrote me. — "Ho ! for "WTiite Pine ! " — The richest silver mine ever discovered. — The jjure stuff. — I go, too. — Visit another camp on the way. — My horse and saddle "borrowed." — A big camj) ablaze with excitement. — Belief that the stuff could be found any^vhere by digging. — The many thousand "mines," — "Bril- liant schemes." — Blubbering investors from the states. — Life: gamb- ling, drinking, business and damnation. — Making big sales, etc.; the outcome. — Another year and a half of lively practical exijerience in the mines. — The many smaller camps in the surrounding region. — Virginia City and Gold Hill. — The great Comstock lode. — The Bonanza and other great stock gambling mines that we read of. When stories, that the since famous Eberhardt mine (then, and yet declared, and perhaps truly, to be, and to have been the richest in silver ever discovered in the world) had been struck at White Pine, I outfitted one of a party to go and prospect the mountain in its vicinity. It succeeded in locating a claim as near as one hundred feet of the Eberhardt itself, besides others, as enticing ; and with glowing prospects or faith, forthwith blasted a hole forty feet deep into the former. Somehow it was believed, that the stuff could be struck, as lead is often found, with little or no surface indications, most anywhere in that vicinity. My partner embraced an opportunity to send me a letter ; he wrote, "We have one first-rate lead and continue to work on our shaft. Shall know this week whether we are in or out of luck. They are striking it all around us. If we do raise the color it will be rich, sure." On my way to White Pine — 150 or 200 miles distant — I stopped a few days in "Grant district," with a prospecting party, with whom I was likewise interested. They had formed this district. Had discovered and were prospecting some quartz ledges, and the prospects and outlook were such, as to induce parties owning a ten-stamp quartz mill to contract to move it there, set it up, and give and take a half interest in each. The mill was then on the way, one of our party having gone out on the trackless desert to meet the train and pilot (89) 90 The Mines of Nevada. them into the mines. The rock, however, was refractory to work and not rich enough to pay at that time — or so it was made to appear. But some 3'ears afterwards I read that these mines were being worked. I was riding a horse and saddle, for which I had paid $150, (having other animals with pros- pecting parties) and on apjDroaching White Pine left them in the care of an old friendly acquaintance, who was then keeping a horse ranch, — that is, herding horses for the miners and others who were stopping up in the mountains, where there was no grass or water — where the winds beat against the bleak and barren cliffs, and the birds never sing. I told him, as a friend, to use my outfit as his own, on any needful occasion. He after- wards did so ; having sold out, he rode it out of the country — not even calling around or sending word to thank me, or say good-bye. Found White Pine ablaze with excitement. The hills and mountains (9000 feet high), quite thronged with men, eagerly and confidently at work with pick and drill, hunting for the precious ore. The Eberhardt mine was at its best, turning out, with common rock, nearly pure virgin and horn silver by the ton. Bowlders of which one could bore an auger through. A guard of several men, armed with rifles, guarded the mine at ten dollars a night each, to keep it out of the courts. A Governor of Colorado was killed by mistake, by his own men, who were thus guarding a mine of his. And Uncle Sam likewise guards his silver at the treasury, and with grape and canister, wherein he decides not to be robbed — having no con- fidence in his own courts. I note these only as prominent examples of a common custom and necessity, to stand ready to kill men in defence of mere property. Why should not other classes of robbers, those who pillage by secret intrigue and treason, be likewise killed in the act ? Deposits or bodies of ore, more or less rich in silver, were found in various places, some of which lay flat like coal. This, with the magnified flaming stories and rich strikes, that were continually flying in the air, increased the excitement to such a pitch, and as the Eberhardt itself was but an irregular body of ore at or near the surface, that it was the general im- Thrilling Experience in the Mines. 91 pression that this district was nature's freak, so that silver could be found for a mile or two of the Eberhardt, as readily as lead is found in galena districts; and that it was "rich, sure." Moreover, there were many small lead deposits in the "base mettle range," in the district close by, which always carried silver. There were also many well defined ledges of quartz (but which were prospected in vain). So tunnels and square holes were being blasted by the hundred. In many cases without any surface indications whatever, or other pros- pects, except that had by some other claim in the vicinity. Shafts were so thick on "Chloride Flat," and in the vicinity of the Eberhardt, that the flying rock, from the numerous blasts in the lime-stone, made it dangerous to be about them ; this with labor at five dollars coin a day, or by contract at twenty dollars per foot. Thousands of such claims were located by private parties and companies such as ours, who would largely bond and sell to speculating mining sharps, who are expert business men. As " great successful lawyers " win with their secret power in packing juries and buying judges, so the expert business miner effects his sales by selling stock and buying other experts and agents. They making the most of the far reaching, wide spread excitement ; newspaper articles, (often in editorials, as though the editor was a practical man, had made a personal examination, had written the thing himself and was telling the truth) and in various devices of the profession, often succeeded in effecting fabulous sales to the good people in the states and in Europe. As it is easier to get a big swindle through Congress or a legislature than a little one, so it is easier to sell a worthless mine for a big sum, than a small sum, as enough is thus afford- ed to buy the thing through, and leave a surplus. Such were the " mines," in which so many, at a distance, hopefully invested (and so did we who were there). Sometimes mining companies, forming at a distance, would not bother about the little matter of any claim at all, except in the mind, as not needing them in their business ; to the great surprise of an occasional troublesome investor, who happened to come out to visit the famed (at a distance) " silver king," etc., the idol of 92 The Mines of Nevada. his heart and purse, and could not find or even hear of it in the district. These men made a great deal of trouble now, since they could travel mostly by rail ; when in former times they were just as useful in "developing the country " and were not in the way. I was told of such imaginary claims, and others of mere bowlders or holes in the limestone, that were stocked for from §500,000 to $2,500,000, and that by working famed and titled gentlemen's names as directors, etc., and have them and editors puff up the scheme, the stock would sell at a " discount " so as to leave a large surplus. If the expert business men in Nevada and their brethren in the big cities had had their way, these meddlesome, wailing lambs would have been snatched up and buried in prison, a censorship placed over their correspondence, and the railroad ripped up. But they were somewhat off-set and put down by other visitors, such as a famous "select party of Chicago merchants." They travelled in a special train and stage coaches, were met with a brazen band ; made enticing, flaming reports as to the general richness of the mines, predicted that " the world would be amazed at the wonderful and immense streams of silver that would flow from White Pine to enrich the people of the earth," and, no doubt, made money in the business. Of course, the entire press in the U. S. would gladly publish, unquestioned, the reports from such " good authority " and attend them with flattering editorials ; when they would spurn to notice, except to kick and condemn, the stories of the bank- rupt, "blubbering, revengeful investors, who would make trouble and injure gentlemen in their business." Yet some- how they would get in their work, so that foreign capital had to be invited, and even it got too shy and expensive to leave any profit. Besides quartz-mills, furnaces, etc., that were building, there was Shermantown, Treasure City and Hamilton, populous mining towns, that were springing up rapidly, with lumber $400 or $500 per 1000 feet, etc., carpenter wages eight dollars a day, (board fourteen dollars a week), and lots selling for four, five and six thousand dollars, and often with titles badly clouded. Thkilling Experience in the Mines. 93 Men were pouring in from every camp, section, state and clime. Every store included a bar, to graciously assist men in tlieir joy at selling a claim or town lot, and in their many disappoint- ments and sorrows— for two bits (twenty-five cents) a drink. Spacious gambling houses, etc., with all sorts of games and en- ticing coin stacked high on the tables, to accommodate the lucky and the luckless in breaking them both. Rich strikes and big sales were daily reported, most everybody was in high spirits and expectations, many being wild and some crazed with the flaming excitement with which the very air seemed charged. Many who had sold claims were wildly spending the money, always expecting to sell others for a stake to go away with and keep. One who was a card-sharp, gambled off $30,000 in a little while. The mine recorder and assistants were kept busy filing the 15,000 or more claims that were recorded, and business generally went on the jump. Yet hundreds were hunting for employment or to borrow a few dollars. Two or three daily and weekly papers were soon being published. All the water at Treasure City and the mines cost ten cents a gallon, while works were being constructed to bring it up from a small stream three miles away, at a cost of $250,000, only to be abandoned or torn up soon after its completion. In about a year and a half all this faith, bustle, business and surging wave of eager men had changed to disappointment, disgust and desertion. The prevailing question was now, how to get out of the country and where to go to, as this state was now blistered by the light of the outside world, and a railroad was running as near as 120 miles, and wires were stretched into the camp. Not a single extensive paying mine or fissure vein of ore had been discovered, and but a few small paj'ing deposits, not any containing a fortune, except the cause of all the flattering tales, rush and conflict of men, — the Eberhardt. And it was now virtually worked out, sold, and incorporated to sell again and again to Englishmen, by its fame. Shermantown, from a population of 4000, Treasure City of 7000, besides the many hundreds of outside cabins and small 94: The Mines of Nevada. camps for many miles around, were now, in a few months, al- most entirely deserted. But Hamilton with its 5000 inhabitants, being the county seat and capital of a region extensive enough for a state, held on to a few hundred. This district and the sur- rounding regions are strangely marked with numerous deserted quartz mills, roasting and smelting furnaces, shafts, tunnels and habitations, — lasting monuments of ill-spent time and wealth. Still there is a great deal of mineral-bearing rock in the mountains of Nevada, that will be worked in the future. Having acquired interests in different claims at White Pine, some of which appeared quite promising, which were bonded to sell for various large sums (the poorest one — near the Eber- hardt — for enough to make us each a fortune) and being still at work in prospecting others, I felt, like so many others, greatly encouraged as to the outcome. Once a telegram came from San Francisco that a big sale had been accomplished, and our money would be deposited that day. But it transpired that in a succession of agents, ex- perts, etc., sent by different members of the company formed to buy, there was one, and only one, and the last one to report, that was not convinced by those in charge of the business at the mine. His unexpected adverse telegram meanwhile, was a fatal blister on the mine and sale. If he had given them any warning, they could have cut the wire and secured the coin. And as the reaction and collapse of the camp came almost as sudden as the blaze was kindled, none of our big sales were effected. I therefore shared with the thousands of others in the general disappointment. Way back in the wild, cannibal infested, fever-stricken jungles of South America or Africa, is the best place to locate gold and silver mines. However, I made some money by small sales, by sinking shafts and running tunnels at twenty dollars a foot. In one claim we had a body of ore that appeared to be quite extensive, it being solid ore fifteen feet deep, as far as we sunk in it. But on having a few tons of it milled, it produced but about thirty dollars a ton, which would not pay at that time. Some of it Thrilling Expeeience in the Mines. 95 assayed at the rate of one liunclred dollars a ton. As it had not the appearance of a regular vein we abandoned it. Doubtless it was afterwards worked out by others. This was the "Union Standard," at the base of a high rock bluff, about three-quarters of a mile north of the Eberhardt. Virginia City and Gold Hill were built up during a similar excitement ten years before White Pine. But there proved to be there one mammoth, true fissure vein — 400 or 500 feet thick and more than two miles long — the Comstock lode. In this are the "Bonanza" and other famous stock gambling mines of Nevada, some of which are being or have been pros- pected to a depth of 3,500 feet, and to drain it to about 1900 feet down, the Sutro tunnel was run 20,178 feet. But even in this great fissure lode — the greatest gold and silver vein in the world — there are many mines that have never payed to work as a legitimate business. One of these has ex- pended millions of dollars in prospecting, without finding any pay rock. I believe it has never produced a dollars worth of bullion, though "Bullion" is its name. "Record of Assessments and Dividends op the Comstock Mines. Fifty mines have each collected [1881] more than $100,000 in assessments, and eighteen more together have collected $735,000. In this estimate is not included the assessment by companies which have been dissolved or incorporated in others. These fifty mines have levied $58,723,000- in assessments. Of these Yellow Jacket leads off with $1,878,000; Savage with $4,809,000 ; Sierra Nevada, $4,200,000 ; Bullion, $3,850,000 ; Hale and Norcross, $3,409,000; Belcher, $2,208,000; Ophir, $2,988,000; Gould and Curry, $3,206,000; CrowTi Point, $2,423,000; and so on through the Hst, there being seven- teen mines which have gathered in over $1,000,000 in assessments. Of the seventy-one mines on the Comstock, seventy have levied assessments, amounting in all to $59,458,000, and only 96 The Mines of Nevada. fourteen have paid any dividends. These fourteen are as follows, with their dividends : Con. Virginia, $42,930,000 California, 30,950,000 Belcher, 15,307,200 Crown Point, 11,688,000 Savage, 4,460,000 Gould and Curry, 3,825,000 YeUow Jacket, 2,184,000 Hale and Norcross, 1,598,000 Ophir, 1,594,000 Kentuck, 1,252,000 Con. Imperial, 1,125,000 Sierra Nevada, 102,200 Confidence, 78,000 Darney, 57,000 Succor, 22,800 Total, $117,173,200 An examination of this list will show, that only six mines have paid their stockholders more than lliey have taken from them. These are Belcher, California, Consolidated Virginia, Crown Point, Gould and Curry, and Kentuck. One who is familiar ^\T.th the Comstock, will see at a glance that all these mines have been largely owned and controlled by the Bonanza firm. So, when you say Consolidated Virginia, California and Belcher have paid $89,277,200 in dividends, you may also add, that three- quarters of this amount has gone directly into the pockets of Flood, Mackay and Fair. The outside investors have always come in just as the dividends ceased, and have invariably been on hand to pay assessments. California never levied an assessment. Con- soHdated Virginia only $411,000. The bulk of this stock has always been held by the Bonanza firm, and its $74,000,000 of dividends represent a good part of their colossal wealth, gained in the last ten years. The army of small speculators have put their money into other mines, and have been allowed the pri^nlege of paying for working ore, whose chief value lay in the elaborate analysis of well-paid experts. An illustration of the methods employed on the Stock Ex- change is f ui'nished in the recent rise and decline of Alta. It was Thrilling Experience in the Mines. 97 selling at one dollar and sixty cents, and was a comparatively dead stock. Suddenly mysterious rumors spread around, that the diamond drillings had shown a rich ore body. Soon these rumors were confii-medby the superintendent and others in control, and they privately advised their friends to buy up all the Alta they could lay hands on. Of course, this reached the street in a few hours. Alta bounded up to five dollars, then on to ten, and, within a week, twenty dollars, and afterwards to twenty dollars and fifty cents. A vast amount of stock was bought. Suddenly it was hinted, that a gigantic ' deal' had been made by the management who, in turn, tried to make it appear that the superintendent had ' salted ' the drillings and thus got good indications. Confidence was shattered ; there was a wild rout, and the stock fell rapidly from twenty dollars to three dollars and fifteen cents. When there was talk of an official investigation of the mine, the lower levels were conveniently flooded with water. This is but an example of many other swindles. A short time before a very bad ' deal ' was made in Belcher, and it was found necessary to flood the mine, when the outsiders had all been fleeced. There is a growing sentiment among the people, which demands that some check be placed upon the lawless schemes of those who, for years, have fleeced the credulous by swindles that would make a faro-dealer blush, and have driven thousands to suicide and crime. '' 1882. — We [committee] consider the management [of Bullion] recklessly extravagant and characterized by a total dis- regard of the rights of stockholders. With reference to the Belcher and Crown Point mines, the Belcher mine has produced from May, 1881, to December, 1882, 28,154 tons of ore, the value of which we are unable to determine [it being a ring secret]. Such evidence as we could obtain placing the value at from thirty to forty dollars per ton. This ore was sold in the mine for fifty cents per ton, and the parties [brethren] buying said ore were allowed to use the company's shaft and works to raise the ore to the surface. We find, the Crown Point mine produced from March, 1881, to December, 1882, 68,457 tons under similar con- ditions, and it was also sold for fifty cents per ton [to brethren]. These mines are still producing about 5000 tons per month on the terms as before stated. These two mines are managed badly and with a total disregard of the rights of stockholders. 7 98 The Mines of Nevada. The proxy system enables people who do not own any stock, to control mines and run them in their own interest. ^^'Tu sad, but ^ lis ivell. — 1883. — There is something peculiarly sad about the decline of Virginia City. The story of its rise and its character in prosperous days, reads like a brilliant flight of imagination. No other city in the world was ever like it. Its business, its wealth, its prodigality, its wickedness— each, in its Avay, was peculiar. And the desolation which now so contrasts with the rush and glitter of the palmy time, is a desolation the like of which has never before been seen on the American continent. Eight years ago Virginia City and Gold Hill, adjoining each other, had 35,000 population. It was the largest community between Denver and San Francisco. There were merchants doing business with a million capital. There were private houses that cost $100,000. There were stamp mills and mining structures that cost $500,000 each. There were three daily newspapers, and a hotel that cost $300,000. Among the people were a score or more men, worth from $300,000 to $30,000,000. Mackay and Fair both lived there. There were three banks, a gas company, a water company, a splendid theatre and a costly court house. Eight years have passed and the town is a "vyreck. The 35,000 people have dwindled to 5000. The banks have retired. The merchants have closed up and left ; the hotel is abandoned ; the gas company is bankrupt, and scores of costly residences have either been taken to pieces and moved away, or given over to bats. Real estate cannot be given away for taxes. Nothing can be sold that will cost its worth to move away. The rich men have aU gone. Those who remain are the miners, their superintendents, and the saloon men and gamblers. The latter are usually the first to come to a mining town and the last to leave. The cause of this decadence, which has swallowed up millions of capital and wrecked the worldly ambition of thousands of persons, is the failure of the Comstock mines to turn out additional wealth. Since its discovery, in 1860, there have been taken from that single vein, in a space of less than 3,000 lineal feet, no less than $285,000,000 of gold and silver, and of this about $110,000,000 came from the Bonanza mines alone. Exclude Flood, Mackay, Fair and Sharon from the list, and those who have preserved the fortunes, made on the Comstock, may be counted on one's fingers. But the millions upon millions that have been sunk in the whirlpool of speculation are almost incalculable. San Fran- i^ -'-'I I VERS J Thrilling Experiences in the Mines. 99 Cisco is to-day full of financial, physical and moral wrecks, by the treachery of the great Comstock and the illusive hopes of the gambling multitude." And the Comstock was the great gold and silver lode of the known world, having yielded, it is said, about $500,000,000 to date. CHAPTER VII. Building the U. P. and Central railroads. — A general rugged prospecting toiir of seven months in Nevada, Idaho and Montana. — On to Wash- ington Territory. — The country, climate, soil, scenery, fishing, hunt- ing, incidents, etc., etc. — Finding the true source of the fine gold in the Snake and Columbia rivers. — The more famous of the Idaho Placer mines. It was February, 1870. The U. P. and Central Pacific Eail- roads were completed a few months previously. As the Government had given these companies more money and other means than was required to build the roads, they could afford to, and they did spent it with an open hand in rushing them through. This made times good and lively along the route, so that money was made rapidly in various ways and channels of trade, by live men, with but little money capital. For example: one with a few pony teams could make a stake in a short time, in grading or teaming on or along the road. The wages paid were high — five dollars or more per day for a fifty or sixty dollar team, and driver, to scrape, etc., and the wages were doubled for night and Sunday work. Several of my acquaintances had left the mines for the railroad, and had done far better than we, who remained to dig it out of the ground. The Northern Pacific railroad had now been chartered by Congress, with a land grant more than sufficient to build and equip it, with a provision, that the road had to be built immedi- ately, or the Empire of land would revert to the people. There- fore, it was the talk and general belief that it would be pushed through at once, and that the opportunities for earning money on the N. P. would be good, if not equal, to that on the U. P. and Central. The glittering prospects in the mining regions were blasted since the railroad was built, but I was not yet quite satisfied to give up the chase ; mainly, because of my love of travel and adventure, and I would now have the advantage of my previous three years' active experience in quartz, making me somewhat expert in the business. (100) (101) A Canyon. 102 Idaho and Montana. So I concluded to now make an extensive, general prospect- ing tour through the wild mountain ranges to the north, for both quartz and placer diggings, and for the pleasure of travel; and if unsuccessful in finding any ground enticing enough to cling to, would terminate my travels at Puget Sound, or else where near the proposed route of the Northern Pacific railroad. Accordingly, during the succeeding seven months, I visited several mining districts and camps in Nevada, Idaho and Montana, and prospected, more or less, the mountain ranges intervening. Was in the Owyhee, Upper Snake and Salmon river regions, and in the mountains at the source of the Jeflfer- sor. Fork of the Missouri river. I noticed some spots of pretty good farming land on the Humboldt river in Nevada, about the northern line of the state, and in Idaho, also in Lemhi and Bitter-root valleys, near the summit of the Rockies in Montana, also much good grazing country. But I saw far more that is i agged, shaggy, barren and forbidding. I talked with immigrants from good localities in the Western States, and on asking one why they chose to leave what I considered fairer sections of country to live in, to settle in such a wild region, he answered: that these valleys were like the places they had left — very enticing at a distance ; or in his own words, "they are hell a good ways oflf." Neither had filled the pictures of their imaginations. Was at the two great falls of Snake river, 175 and 260 feet fall, and enjoyed some beautiful scenery, but the most of it is dreary and distressing. Had good fishing sometimes, — in the upper Snake there were plenty of salmon trout, weighing ten or fifteen pounds, and very fat. Game— including bear, wild- cat, etc., — was likewi«e quite plentiful, though not by any means as much so as we usually read about, and is generally supposed. Climbed over snow-clad mountains— wading and plunging in the snow in July, and the next day or two would be suffer- ing with heat in some valley below. Generally found plenty of company in various prospecting parties. Many of these men were highly learned and experi- enced in the world, and of fine feelings, while even the others (1U3) 104 Idaho and Montana. are agreeable companions for a time, to one who knows how to take them. I will note a little incident of many, I would like to give, in illustration of the generous traits possessed by many who despise the selfish, sign- and grisp-machine charity (?). Meeting a party of miners with their pack animals on their way to a settlement and store for supplies, (they being settled and working a Placer claim) I borrowed a pocket knife of one of them, as we stopped for a moment to talk, as I had lost my own. He would not receive it back or any pay for it, " as he would soon be where he could get another," he said. It was a fancy one, worth three dollars. They also furnished some of our party with provisions in the same way. We had never met before, and never expected to again. If we should go with them to their rough cabin home, we could see gold dust in a segar box on a shelf, or in a powder keg, and as long as it lasted no one would be allowed to pass them by in need. Those who experience in themselves and appreciate in others the pure pleasure in these unguilded, unselfish, genial traits, should be judged in kind whenever they fall among pro- fessional " charitable " brethren, as they are pretty sure to do sometime, being neither cunning nor cruel. Having a good outfit, permitting nothing to worry me, and having no great expectations to be shattered, that season of travel was mostly a picnic. The rugged side was in fording rapid and rocky streams, and others having deceitful bottoms of mire ; crossing steep, rocky gorges, and through African jungles, woven with fallen timber. My horses became so accustomed to climbing, jumping and sliding, that they were so reckless of danger, that their often superior judgment could not be trusted. Sometimes, however, they would pick their way and somehow get over or through places, where one could not see any possible way, when often a mis-step would send them tumbling to roaring waters in the rocky gorges, hundreds of feet below, and when weary, would jump at the opposite side of a ditch or against a ledge, or fallen trees, when they knew they must fall back. Sometimes flies and mosquitoes were so thick and masonic, that we had to blanket our horses for a slight protection ; so it The Idaho Placer Mijses. lOo was no wonder they would leave us alone with strange Indians, to take up with their horses that were free. But a sinall number of horses, if their leaders are kindly treated, are not apt to leave a camp unless they know of better company near by. And a single animal will hardly ever leave its rider in a strauge and lonely place. My pack-horse was no more trouble in travelling, than a dog — being as sure to follow. Once on the side of a deep gorge he fell, rolled over a time or two and landed against a log. After he had climbed back, I, with my foot, started the log tumbling to the bottom, which I could not see. While more lost and separated than usual, I was twenty- four hours without water ; the day was hot, got past being thirsty and became sick, so the water did not taste good when I found it, which I did by my horses scenting it at a distance. Found beaver quite plentiful in places. In their work is displayed a reasoning faculty equal to that of some men. In felling trees for dams, they cut them so as to fall where they want them. One night we were all awoke by the rumbling sound and three distinct shocks of an earthquake, but could hear nothing about it on reaching habitations. Ice sometimes formed at night at our camps, in July and August. My whereabouts that season were so uncertain, that I re- ceived letters which had been re-mailed half a dozen times. As to the golden object in that season's prospecting: — Found several prospects in quartz, about equal to that I had left in Nevada, and in placer diggings many places that would yield one to two dollars a day, but none that would probably pay to work at that time. The whole country had been pretty closely prospected, and the paying ground worked. I was now satisfied as to this, and tired of the business, of the mountains, and of rambling about in this way. I learned, that times were pretty good in Washington Territory, and horses were cheap in the Walla Walla section. So I decided to go there and work at whatever I found to do, and buy as many horses as I was able, to work with on the N. P. railroad, whenever its construction was commenced in earnest. 106 Idaho and Montana. Arriving at Fort Owens, in Bitter-root valley, Montana — which valley was then being settled and improved — I found myself on one of the proposed routes of the N. P. E. R. With a single companion struck West through the mountains by the Lo Lo Indian trail for Lewiston, Idaho, and the Walla Walla, Washington Territory country, fifty or one hundred miles beyond it. Lewiston being situated on the western verge of the pan-handle of Idaho, near the head of navigation on Snake river, 400 miles from Portland, Oregon, and 495 miles by water from the mouth of the Columbia river. On the way to Lewiston, we fell in with a couple of rail- road surveying parties, who were hunting for a route ; also numerous Nez-Perce Indians, ou their way home from hunting buffalo and fighting the Sioux on their own or neutral hunting grounds in the Yellowstone country. The Grouse, or "fool hen," is a bird of the same family, it appears to me, as the partridge and pheasant. They differ from each other in about the same degree as do the Chinamen, Esquimaux and Indians. Inhabiting different climates, and compelled to live by different modes and food, may account for all the difference found in them. As to the difference in dialect, this can be comprehended and accounted for by observing the same in different local districts among the same race of white men — in those of the East, South and West— after so short a time and with such comparative free and frequent communication and mingling with each other. We found this bird so plentiful and tame at many places on this trip, that we could kill most any amount of them with sticks, as .we rode along. Camped by a hot sulphur flowing spring on this Lo Lo trail, and enjoyed a bath in its blue waters where it formed a pond, cool enough for comfort. These mountains are craggy, but thickly wooded with much good timber of fir, tamerack, spruce, cedar and pine. On the western slope are some fertile prairie valleys, and on approaching Lewiston (twenty-four miles east from where I finally settled to make a home) found ourselves in a good prairie farming country, though not inhabited, except by Indians. Here we found a Government Indian Agency, also a The Idaho Placer Mines. 107 military post and the American flag. We called at the post for information as to our whereabouts. Afterwards I sold grain here that I liad raised. There is fine, light gold in the bars of Snake river, any- where from near its source to its confluence with the Columbia (150 miles below Lewiston), also in the Columbia and Salmon rivers, which was supposed by many to come from some fabu- lous rich fountain or quartz deposits in the rugged mountains at the rivers' source. But we had found this not to be the case, but that the rivers flowing, as they do, through a gold- bearing country, where a color can be found most anywhere, got their supply from the natural washes and streams tributary to them, with the annual wash of sand, gravel, mud and drift. Hundreds of Chinamen and some white men mine, with rockers, on the bars of these rivers, during the low stage of water, mak- ing one or two dollars per day. Orofino, Warrens, and other rich placer camps, which created such excitement and brought Idaho into notice in the states, in 1860, are in these Salmon river and Clearwater moun- tains. Lewiston being their point of supply and wintering place. Its climate nearly equals that of the valleys of Cali- fornia. For a year or two the lowest price for supplies was one dollar a pound at the mines, and they created a splendid market for many years ; which started many into farming in the Walla Walla country, and gave it and them a good start in the world. The old Indian and packing trails to Walla Walla and beyond are ten or fifteen in width, and tramped deep in the fertile soil ; and mining is still going on at those famous camps, and pack trains are still trailing to and from Lewiston. I had been acquainted with different ones in Nevada, who had travelled through this country from California and Oregon, and dug gold in these mines, so I had in advance quite an accurate idea as to each. CHAPTER VIM. A compreliensive descriptiou of tlie Walla "Walla country; soil, climate and productions, and the lay of the land. — Hire ont on a farm for two months. — The secret of success and failure in government and corpo- ration contracts. — Secret intrigue at military posts, etc. — ExjDerience in work in the mountain. — Locate a land claim and get married. — A year's experience. A.EEIVED in Lewiston about the middle of September, 1870. Crossed the river into Washington Territory, and travelled north-west for eight miles over a somewhat sterile grazing country near the river ; when I came onto a wooded creek with narrow bottom (the Alpowa), inhabited and farmed somewhat by Indians, for a few miles, and by an old Yankee bachelor who kept a hotel and stage station, and raised cattle. Said, he had found it to be the best economy to provide flour, instead of other feed, for his stock, when the weather was such that they needed feeding. (It was at the head of this creek, to the south- west, that I afterwards built my home). Leaving this creek by a big hill, and riding for ten miles over a level bunch-grass prairie (destitute of water and wood, but a belt of timber was plainly to be seen twelve to fifteen miles to the south), when I went down another big hill on to another creek (the Pataha), having a bottom quite destitute of wood, and about a quarter of a mile wide for twenty-five miles to Snake river. The upper portion, reaching back into the Blue mountain about thirty miles, being still more contracted and more wooded. All of it, from its source to its mouth, is quite fenced in by high, abrupt hills on either side, and so is the Alpowa. From the top of these hills, vast, thickly-planted bunch grass prairies extend north to Snake river some fifteen miles, and south to the timber of the Blue mountains about the same distance away. These prairies, however, are more or less cut up with ravines and gulches, are scantily watered and com- pletely destitute of wood. I found this creek bottom, or the most of it that was fit for cultivation (the lower portion), settled up and farmed, but the adjoining prairies were entirely unoccupied, except by a few bands of cattle and horses belong- (108) Locate a Land Claim and get Married. 109 ing to the creek settlers. The farmers here were threshing their grain with a ten or twelve horse power machine. Thej had to collect and change work with each other for a distance of ten or fifteen miles to form a threshing crew. They being short of help, and I having but a few dollars left, stopped and worked for them a few days, at two dollars a day, which seemed very small wages to me then. The yield of wheat, oats and barley was thirty to sixty bushels to the acre, and the up-prairie land appeared equally as fertile. The nights being always cool, this is not a good corn country. Following this creek for eleven miles, it changed its course to the north, while the road and old Indian and pack trails left it by winding up a hill 700 or 800 feet high, thence over a level prairie for a mile, when I looked down into a Canyon (Tu-Canyon) 1200 to 1500 feet deep, having a stream with wooded bottom, a few hundred yards wide. The wood on these streams is mostly cotton-wood, birch, alder and pine. A few spots on this stream were being farmed for hay, by men with stock, as a safe winter retreat. Crossing this Canyon, I found, spread out as far as I could see, another similar vast rolling fertile prairie country, with richer hollows, coves or bottoms, and blessed with an occasion- al spring or stream of good water; but wood still to be seen only in the one direction — many miles away to the south. After about eight miles of unbroken prairie, I found the hollows and choice spots by the road settled, and more or less farmed, according to the time, means and energy of the settler in haul- ing fencing and other wood, fifteen to twenty miles — there being no barbed wire then. On approaching Walla Walla, the country was more thickly settled and improved, there being streams Avith more extensive bottoms, bordered by less abrupt hills, and Avooded sufficient for immediate fencing and domestic use. Though much of the soil along these streams was not as productive as that of the hollows, or even the extreme upland j^rairies, until made so by irrigation. Near Walla Walla the lay of the land becomes less broken by ravines ; but to speak of this Walla Walla country as a 110 The Walla Walla Country. valley, is misleading. The stream Walla Walla has a little narrow valley to be sure, but it don't amount to much, except in rare spots. The same is true of even the Columbia, Snake and other rivers at a distance from the coast. They might have had broad fertile valleys or bottoms, like the Sacramento, Mississippi, Ohio and the Mohawk, but they hav'nt. I mean to give a true and comprehensive, though brief description of Eastern Washington, and the settling thereof, such as may also give an accurate idea of that north of the Columbia and Snake, as well as of that portion of Idaho adjoining, as these sections are similar. With their fertile soil, each has its deeply embedded streams, narrow vales and ravines, steep and long hills and sections of rocky waste land, or suited only for graz- ing. Each having its mountain range, for timber and wood supply, to tap the rain clouds and giving variety of climate and scenery. Singular though it may seem, during the most severe winters the mercury sinks lowest in the lowest altitudes, and snow falls there quite as deep at such times as elsewhere. Stock have wintered with less loss in hard %/inters, on some opening back in the mountains, than others on the Columbia and Snake rivers. The best lands are usually found near the mountain ranges, and the lighter, dryer and poorer soil as the Columbia and Snake rivers are approached, though irrigation would, and sometimes does, where practicable, make this the best, and the springs are a month or more earlier here than at the higher altitudes, and less snow usually falls. But it gets ten to fifteen degrees hotter than on the upland prairies ; it being sometimes one hundred degrees and more. And it is covered with a bank of cold fog for several weeks in the winter, while the sun is shining bright and warm on the high prairies. Every four or five years there is a hard winter, when the mercury sinks to twenty or thirty degrees below zero for a few weeks. But where there is an open range that has not been over-stocked, horses that are not worked will winter all right without feeding ; and cattle need to be fed but a month or two, and some winters not any. The warm trade or "chinook" winds from the South- Pacific are a great blessing to this country in winter ; they Locate a Land Claim and get Married. Ill come with black clouds — as a thunder shower comes, and sometimes bare the ground of a foot of snow in a day or night; but they cannot be counted on. The winter winds from the opposite direction are stinging cold. I continued my journey from Lewiston for about sixty miles, to near where Dayton was afterwards built and become the county seat of a new county (Columbia), composed of a part of Walla Walla county, which before embraced all the region between the Columbia and Snake rivers and the Oregon line. Since, Garfield and Asotin counties have been formed out of Columbia. Dayton is on the Tou-Chet (Tii-she) stream, and this section was then known as the "Upper Tou-Chet." I hired to work for a farmer for two months, at $35.00 a month. — This was the first and only good farming country I had seen since leaving Eastern Nebraska, over four years before, except that in Salt Lake valley and in Southern California. Here I found improved farms with orchards, barns, colts, calves, lambs, geese, chickens, women, children and girls in their teens, with an occasional buggy or side-saddle to be seen. So considering me having been raised on a farm and at home, and then having been for about five years roving about — a homeless wanderer, in wild, unsettled desert regions, unblessed with the innocent prattle of children or the voice of women — is it any wonder that having become tired of such a life, I was impressed, as the plains-tired traveller is on reaching Salt Lake and Los Angeles, with their fruitful trees and vines, mead- ows, flowers, singing birds and flowing streams, and as Mohammed was when he beheld Damascus and exclaimed, that "man can enter but *ne paradise." I worked with a threshing machine, as it changed about for the man I hired to, for a couple of weeks, and was impressed with the bountiful yield of grain, the ground being new and only the choice spots in cultivation. I then put in the most of the remainder of the two months in hauling rails and wood from the mountain for him. My employer was related to one who had recently been a Government Indian agent, and himself had been engaged at an agency and military post ; and I having before and since be- come intimately acquainted with Government contractors, etc., 112 The Walla Walla Countky. and also with intelligent agency Indians (one of wliom wrote for me the story of his life, which I may give), together with my personal observations, enabled me to become informed con- cerning affairs at such places and the mode by which ring favorites get fortunes and outsiders are crushed in dealing with Government secret ring agents or officers. I will give a few points for the information of those who are curious to know how it is, that one man can take a Government contract for supplies and make money out of it, while his neighbor, possess- ing superior business abilities, would lose money. For example, will consider the grain, hay, wood and horse supply. The allowance of these, as with other supplies also, is usually greater than is necessary for the service. Proposals are duly advertised for a certain quantity or amount of either, (it being the full amount allowed or to be suffered for a certain time), the same to be of "the best quality," or "per sample," and to be delivered by or during a stated time, or at the pleasure of the Grand Master, as the case may be. Now this time may be while the roads are almost impassable, and while the outsider will be required to fulfill the contract to the exact letter, the secret brother, who can be relied on as to " division and secrecy," under the obligations and penalties of the ring, knows that the time will be modified to suit his (their) inter- ests, and that the quantity, with him, need only be such as is barely necessary for the service ; though the full amount allow- ed is receipted, booked and paid for. Thus are favorite con- tractors and their gangs enriched by government and corpora- tion contracts, even when the figures are heloiv the market 2)yice. In the West but comparatively little forage is necessary or really used, as the stock usually runs out to grass on the ranges all the year. In buying horses and mules, none but those fully up to the standard will be received from a full-fledged citizen of the Government, while from some one who is a sworn subject of a lurking, foreign, pagan-government, most anything in horse or mule shape is often taken. I have known several men who were badly bitten by count- ing on some of the concessions always accorded to secret sub- jects. The difference in the cost between a favorite and out- sider in filling a contract is often twenty-five to fifty per cent. CQ w o p Q O O W Hi The W.\lla Walla Country. An example giveu me b}' the party who furnished the wood, and who had occasion to procure full proof of the following ex- amples of loyalty : For the post, and the year alluded to, the Government allowed and paid for 575 cords of wood, at $5.50 per cord, equal to §3,162.50 ; while all that was really bought or paid for was 350 cords, at S2.50 per cord, equal to $875.00. What per cent, of loyalty is that ? They also received from the Government, that is not good enough for them, pay for 500 rations at a time, supposed to be issued to the Indians, when the highest number was really but forty-five, and this of condemned stores. What per cent, of loyalty is this ? Now take the annual appropriations of Congress, and see what SAvorn secrecy-under-horrible-penalties in office is costing Uncle Sam in money alone ! My informant as to these mere examples, said, he reported these facts, with the indisputable proof thereof, to two city editors, but the}', being subjects of the same secret government, would not publish them. That he also reported the same to the Government at Washington, to find that the influence of their secret government extended there also and was supreme. And jobs were put up against his life, and the courts were prostituted to get him out of the way, so he could not make any more trouble with their " mysteries." When extra transportation and supplies are required, as in case of an Indian outbreak — which is often purposely induced by the lurking subjects themselves — they get contracts to supply it at fourteen prices, and then sub-let it to others, who do the work and furnish the supplies for small pay. After a gang has made such a raid against the Government in the name of the Indians, and has the plunder divided up and secured, then a few journals, as a cloak for their servility, come out of the dark as follows, but they dare not strike at the root and secrecy of the evil; and they are brazen in the assumption, that the officials at Washington do not know the " true inward- ness " of these jobs in advance, if ter forty years' experience u'ith the same game. "The Government has finally begun to see the Hrue inward- ness ' of the Arizona ' Indian war,' and peace may be looked for Locate a Land Claim and get Married. 115 now any day. Not a solitary Indian was killed, not a single pioneer, miner, or any other man who minded his own business, was molested, but several enterprising [?] men made a million, or so, a piece, out of the scare ; and it was started for no other pnr- pose. Crook broke the Apaches' backbone years ago; the poor wretches haven't vim enough left to fight a coyote." When my two months' job expired, the most profitable work I had learned of was that of making rails and clap-boards in the mountain for the- farmers living out on the streams and hollows. Eails were worth twenty dollars, and clap-boards fifteen dollars per thousand at the stump, and the timber — tamerack, fir and pine— split well. There was a small company of men thus engaged, who tried to discourage me, saying, that on account of the scarcity of money there was only a small cash demand for such work. I, however, found that it could be readily traded for stock, especially horses, which was good enough pay for me. So I bought an outfit and six months' supply of grub and went to work in the timber, where I split my first rail and clap-board. Shingles were also being made there, by hand, at four dollars and fifty cents per thousand. I worked here the most of the ensuing ten months, and though not very rugged, and unable to do as much hard work as other men, I made 8000 rails and 55,000 clap-boards, which was more, than was done by any other man about me or whom I knew of, though to hear many of them talk, they could do and did more work in one day, than I could in three ; and may be they could, but, somehow, they had not much to show in re- sults for their superior ability, and those who had farms had poor fences, and their shelter was like that noted in song by the "Arkansan traveller." I cleared by that ten months' work eight hundred dollars worth of horses and other property, and had spent more in living than any of them. Besides this, I meanwhile located a land claim on the prairie, fourteen miles away, and built on it a twelve by fourteen feet lumber cabin, which claim I sold for a hundred dollar mule and fifty dollars. Had also spent many pleasant Sundays and other days with hospitable farmer friends living in the valleys, and in riding 116 The Walla. Walla Country. over the prairies and iu shaded vales iu yet more congenial company. I kept a saddle horse with me in summer, and as I put on a clean shirt once in a while, rode about more than my timber companions; did not boast of fabulous amounts of work that I had not and could not do, or even what I did, and asked so many fool questions in friendly satire, and as though I hardly knew what timber, laud, and work really was ; was therefore looked upon by some of the innocent settlers with an air of sus- picion, or of ridicule, that was amusing in its crude simplicity in judging human character. Having been out and about in company with a timber com- panion, he came to me one day in great trouble and vexation of spirit, saying there was a " terrible story out about us." "Why !" says he, " they take me for a Mghivayman and call you the gentle- man rail-maker," and he felt that we were fatally slandered and should weep and wail, or else curse and fight together in putting the stigma down. Once I had 4000 clap-boards to make in a trade for a horse, when one of the boys told me that it would please my customer to make them very thick ; so I made them very thick. Then he reported to him that I "had made a lot of wide staves for him, instead of thin clap-boards, the kind he wanted." So he spent a day in coming to see about it, but was satisfied when I promised to suit him entirely ; which I did by simply splitting each one into two in a little while, which he himself could have done at home, making twenty dollars a day in doing it. While I afforded some amusement to my generous com- panions in toil, I (being incompetent, an orphan and stranger in a strange land) — was also a subject of anxiety and care to some, who kindly made my business and social genial welfare their ardent concern. This brings my story to the fall of 1871. The prospect of the early building of the N. P. railroad had waned, as it Avas not to be built until other railroads were built without any subsidy and the country was settled up, so it would be a paying investment at once ; thus having the great land grant as a clear gift, if, through secret intrigue with brethren in office, they could hold it against the law. Fire had destroyed the manufacturing business of my (117) 118 The Walla Walla Country. father, and he and my mother had died, so the scenes of my boyhood, thus saddened, had less attraction for me than when I left them; and finding here apparently as favorable an opportun- ity to settle down and prosper, as would be afforded elsewhere, I concluded to remain, get married, make as good a home as I was able to carve out of the wilderness, and grow up -with the country. Was married the same fall, a year after my arrival in the country. CHAPTER IX. A brief description of Eastern and Western Washington, and of the various sections in each. — Their industries and inducements. — Their advantages and their disadvantages. Washington is the most north-western territory, or state, belonging to the Union, with the exception of Alaska. It lies about ten degrees north of Washington City, D. C. Yet the eastern part is not as cold in winter as New Jersey, the ground seldom being frozen as much as six inches deep ; and the west- ern part is not as cold in winter as it is at Washington City on the Potomac, and it is more healthy. Irrigation is not absolutely necessary anywhere in the state, to raise crops ; but some sections in the eastern part get very dry and very dusty, and most anywhere more or less irri- gation is, or would be, if water was accessible, very beneficial, and so it would be in the states. Though it rains more in summer in the states, than it does here, or anywhere else on this coast. But the soil is such that in unusual dry seasons half a crop is raised without any rain or irrigation. The state, as a whole, is separated into two natural divisions, known as Western and Eastern Washington, the Cascade range of mountains intervening. It contains, besides the mountainous regions, which are covered with timber and wood, nearly 50,000 square miles of pasture and agricultural lands. About four-sevenths of these are classified as timbered, two-sevenths as bunch-grass prairie, and one-seventh as alluvial bottom lands. Over half of the timbered and nearly all the bottom lands lie in the western section ; while the bunch-grass prairie lands are all in the eastern part. The annual rainfall in Western Washington is about seventy inches, and in Eastern Washington about thirty inches. Extending far inland from the Pacific ocean into Western Washington is Puget Sound. Although sufficiently narrow to admit of both shores being seen at the same time, it is in all parts of sufficient depth to accommodate the largest ocean- going steamers, and in places it is a hundred fathoms deep. It (119' 120 Eastern and Western "Wasuington. has a shore line about sixteen hnndred miles in length, and in- cludes a series of laud-locked harbors, in which the " navies of the world " might anchor in safety. Emptying into it on every side are numerous streams, some of which are navigable for many miles into the interior. The bottoms of these streams are very fertile, and some are spacious, nor are they unhealthy, as is so usual in the states. These, as well as the bottoms on the streams that empty into Grays Harbor, Shoal Water Bay and the lower Columbia river, are the best tame-grass sections on the Pacific coast, if not in the United States. These bottoms are from, say, one to six miles wide, and fifteen or twenty of these streams are navigable— the Chehalis for sixty miles at all seasons of the year. But these bottoms are mostly covered with a dense growth of brush, vine-maple, alder, cedar, spruce and other timber. Nearly the whole of Western Washington is covered with a dense forest, composed of fir, cedar, spruce, with some oak, vine and curley maple, alder and other vegetation, belonging to a warm, humid climate. Between the Sound and the ocean are the Olympic mountains, with snow-capped peaks ; and between it and the ocean is the best unsettled section of country that I know of at this time (1889). Mount Rainier, or Tacoma, in the Cascade range, is near 15,000 feet high, and its top is always white with snow. The " Sound Country " has numerous thriving towns, Seattle, Tacoma, Port Townsend and Olympia being the largest. The country bordering upon the Sound and extending back to the mountains, is rich in coal and lumber, and the soil, when cleared, is more or less productive for hay, grain and vegetables, also fruits and berries. There are sections that are most excellent for apples, pears and plums. Coal is shipped in large quantities to San Francisco. There is quite a variety of fish in the Sound, and they are abundant ; and so are clams on the beach. Cedar trees are frequently 200 feet in height, and firs some- times 300 feet, and 100 feet to the first limb. Spars and other rare ship timbers are conveyed from Puget Sound to all parts of the world. Common lumber is shipped principally to Cali- fornia, Central and South America, Australia and the Sandwich Islands. It is a great lumber region, if not the greatest in the Eastern and Western Washington. 121 world. Some of the mills cut about 500,000 feet a clay, each. — The Sound hawks will ride on hogs' backs while they root up clams on the beach, then snatching one will fly high in the air, and directly over some rocky spot, letting the clam drop, to break it open. The climate of Western Washington is warm and wet, the average winter temperature being about thirty-three degrees above zero, with lots of rain. During the summer season it rains less and the temperature is milder, but the climate is quite even the year round. Flowers are often seen blooming in the gardens in the midst of winter. The scenery is grand, especially in summer when the air is free of fog and smoke. Eastern Washington is as different from Western Washing- ton as one country could well be from another. Generally speaking, it is an open, or timberless region, and is therefore chiefly useful as a farming and grazing country. Its chief rivers are the Columbia and Snake, which have their junction near the center of the state. Besides these rivers are numerous smaller streams, that have their sources in the mountain ranges — some of them flowing eastward from the Cascades, some from the Blue mountains, which lie to the south-east, and some from the Coeur d'Alene mountains in northern Idaho. These streams, with the exception of the Columbia and Snake, are more or less wooded. They are all more or less deeply im- bedded below the farming country, the upper portions being deep canyons. The Columbia and Snake are bordered with sand and gravel, and rocky bluffs ; the small streams with rich alluvial bottoms and rocky bluffs. Taking one's position upon some elevated point, and look- ing over this vast region of Eastern Washington, the general appearance is that of an endless contiguity of grass-covered, gently waving hills. Thus viewed at a distance, the color of the landscape is that of a dull gray. The scene is monotonous; grand, but not beautiful, and it makes one feel lonesome. These timberless hills are covered with bunch-grass or grain. This grass and a mild, dry climate, made Eastern Washington, Eastern Oregon and Idaho a good stock country. Passing through the country, especially through the settled portions, the scene is .more interesting, as it has lost its sameness and 122 Eastern and Western Washington. gained in variety. Nestled in among these timberless liills and jflats, on one stream or another, are towns and villages, and cities of non-producers ; they are about one quarter of the population of the country ; are organized into secret charitable (?) gangs, and thrive by ruling and filching the producer, home-builder and immigrants — they earn almost nothing, but steal almost everything — the courts being in their control. They are to the people, what the English and German trader is to the natives of countries they have conquered. "For knaves to thrive on — mysterious enough: Dark, tangled doctrines, dark as fraud can weave." " They linked their souls By a dark oath in hell's own language framed." These towns and villages are surrounded with fertile and productive farms. The soil is generally a rich, ashy loam, which is easily plowed and cultivated, and grain, vegetable and fruit are produced with much less labor, than in most other countries. But for the reasons heretofore and hereafter given, over eighty per cent, of the farms are mortgaged, and the whole country is held under tribute that would make the Egyptian, the Hottentot, the Sepoy, or the Chinaman rebel in his own country. Therefore, farms can be bought cheap. " ExCept the virtuous, men ought to he slaves, because they are either Avicked themselves, or are ready to crouch before the wicked. A feeble herd, happy to crouch to a master." Eastern Washington is divided up into numerous large or small districts or sections, usually bearing names which they have derived from streams passing through them. The oldest of these is the Walla Walla country, which surrounds a city of the same name. North of this — across the Snake river — is the Palouse country, the Spokane country, and the Big Bend countr}-, all lying east and south of the Columbia river, and west of Idaho. West of the Columbia river and east of the Cascade mountain is embraced the remainder of Eastern Washington. This region is divided into two large districts, known as the Klickitat country and the Yakima country. "The Yakima country lies north of the Klickitat, and in- cludes an area of nearly ten thousand square miles. . The western Eastern and Western Washington. 123 boundary being the Cascade range of mountains. The Yakima country is penetrated from that direction by numerous long spurs which trend eastward in the direction of the Columbia. Between these long hills or spurs are numerous fertile valleys. By some freak of nature the Yakima river, which runs southward and eastward, cuts through these long hills at nearly right angles, and in this way crosses the several valleys comprising the Yakima country. The first, and one of the largest of these valleys through which the river passes, after it flows from the Cascade mountains, is the Kittitas valley, which is the centre of a county, with Ellensburg as the county seat. Fifteen to twenty miles to the north of Ellensburg is an extensive coal region, perhaps the best in the state. And to the north of this are gold, silver and other mines. Further down the river, from Ellensburg, south and east of Kittitas, are numerous smaller valleys, including the Wenas, Selah, Natcheez and the Ahtanum. In the latter valley, at the junction of a little stream, known as Ahtanum, with the Yakima river, is the town of Yakima. Opposite this town (being like an extension of the Ahtanum valley) is a level, fertile tract of country known as the Moxee. Immediately south of town, the river' cuts throuth another of the long hills above mentioned, and enters another valley, the greater portion of which unfortunately is included within the Yakima Indian reservation. This is the finest valley or tract of land in Eastern Washington, and if it was available for settlement, would be one of the most ]3roductive [for tribute] sections in the West. [Of course] an effort is being made to acquire such portion of it as the Indians do not need [?j for their own use [?], and if the movement is successful, Yakima City wiU at once become an important inland city." [There are also other people who have more land (that they have s/ofe/*), and also more money (that they have stolen) **than they need for their own use." Why not take or rather recover these fii-st?] " Opposite this reservation is an immense country. From the Yakima river it slopes back and rises gently until it reaches the summit of a long range of hills, and then the slope is in the opposite direction and toward the Columbia. The general name given to it is Sunnyside. Below the reservation and on the opposite side of the Yakima river from Sunnyside, is a somewhat similar tract of country known as ''Horse Heaven.'' It being a good range and largely occupied by horses. The Cascade branch of 124 Eastern and Western Washington. the Northern Pacific railroad is constructed up the Yakima river, and, like the stream itself, passes through the numerous valleys. This section yields large crops of grain, hay, hops, vegetables and fruits, also tobacco, flax, broom-corn and sugar-cane. It has a mild climate and fertile soil." The Palouse, the Spokane and the Colville countries are, in one way and another, equal to the Yakima. The Palouse will produc3 much more grain, but less fruit, and so will the Spokane. And the Colville country is quite rich in lead and silver, with some gold, and has much fertile soil, with a superior stock range. But the Walla Walla country is naturally the best of all the sections, it being hardly surpassed anywhere in the world as a general farming and fruit country. In the foothills of the Blue mountains the soil was equal to the virgin soil of Illinois, and the climate generally much more congenial in winter. About six weeks is the average time that the ground is too much frozen to plow. ' It catches more of the warm chinook winds than any other section. Apple and peach trees bear in three years from the seed, and there are localities where corn, melons, tomatoes and other vines grow and bear in great abundance. The Umatilla section in Eastern Oregon is considered as belonging to the Walla Walla country. The Grand Ronde valley, in the Blue mountains in Eastern Oregon, will compare favorably to the Palouse country in Washington. And the Boise country in Idaho is similar to the Yakima in its climate, soil and productions. Western Oregon is very similar, though larger and superior to Western Washington as a farming country. But it is older, and its timber and mineral resources are not as great as those of Western Washington. Oregon originally embraced the whole region from California Nevada and Utah to Alaska, and from the Pacific ocean to the Bocky mountains, and the Columbia river was named " Oregon." The water may be said to be universally good throughout the whole Northwest. '* Where rolls the Oregon, and hears no sound, Save his own dashings." MuLTNOMA Falls, Columbia riveii, Oiiegon. (125) CHAPTER X. History of settling of the Walla Walla country. — Keport of Government experts, as to the soil. — Packing to the mines of Idaho. — The market and opijortiinities. — The outlook in 1870, when I landed here. — The country grasped by its throat ; the Government prostituted — 1000 miles of river navigation to the sea strangled, and the tribute that was levied. — The result. — The j)romised railroad. — First land claim I located. — Life in the beginning of a home. — Dangers and drawbacks. — My first outfit. — Sell my claim. — Hunt for and locate another in a new wild section. ^Description of it and the locality. — My Indian neighbors; how they treated the first white men they ever saw. — A homebuilder's land rights, and what he must necessarily endiire. — Warned of the perplexities, consiDiracies and treason to be jslanted in the way. — How we started out to build a good and spacious home. — Our house, etc. — Travelling, moving and cam^jing in the West.— 25 miles to blacksmith shop, etc. — The "Egypt "for suijjjlies. — Land claims located about us and abandoned, are re-located by others time and again. — My first crop. — Crickets one hundred bushels to the acre. — So that we are left alone in the "France Settlement."' — The section surveyed and I "file my claim." — Kaise hogs. — The result. — Get a band of cattle.— Experience on the range. — Getting roads opened. — First railroad in Eastern Washington.— Strugglmg for a livelihood and home. — Howl managed. — Other new settlements and people. — How they did. — "Land hunters." — Prove up, jjay for and get jaatent for pre-emption claim, and take a homestead claim ad- joining. — Copy of U. S. patent. — How we just loped along and ahead of the country. — It settles up. — New County ; towns, etc., built. — Settlers swindled. —Build school-house, etc., etc. 1 HE first settlements in the Columbia and Snake river basin were at, or near Fort "Walla "Walla- afterwards the town of "Walla Walla ; and then on the through-road and pack-trails leading from Fort Walhda — on the Columbia river— to Walla- Walla, and thence easterly— by the way of Lewiston — to the mining camps and military posts in Idaho. The ferryage for crossing Snake river at Lewiston was six dollars for wagon and single team, and one dollar each for rid- ing and pack animals. And during the rush to the mines the travel was so great, that a single boat could hardly carry it ; at times hundreds had to wait their turn. These western ferry-boats are propelled by the current of (126) The "France Settlement" 127 the stream, by keeping them diagonally against the current and in a direct course by guy ropes, attached to pulleys rolling on a wire cable, stretched high across the river. This travel, emigration and military operations afforded the early settlers of the Walla Walla country a home market for many years, that was perhaps never surpassed in the West. They also secured the most desirable spots in the country for permanent homes — that of wooded streams with prairie bottoms. Some of these first settlers got their start by digging it out of the rich placers of Idaho or British Columbia ; others, by working at such, as teaming or packing to the mines, either on their own account, or by wages, at sixty to one hundred dollars a month ; while others again brought it with them across the plains, or from Oregon. Found their farm wagons worth here $200 or $300, cows $50 to $100, and good horses and mules also very high, and a good new range. There being large numbers of Indian horses already here, such and half-breeds were cheap. Up to the time I came here (1870), Government land was offered at private sale to anybody, at $1.25, greenbacks, per acre, and as much as they wanted and could pay for. On account of the proximity to and richness of the mines, money was plenty; a good market was afforded (about one dollar a pound at the mines), so a settler with a broken leg made a stake out of an onion patch he tended in a season ; wages were high ; all kinds of business applicable to the country and situ- ation, gave large returns, and the mines did not begin to fail till 1865. And, until it became thickly settled around them, they had a very healthy climate. Never before, or since, did home seekers have such splendid opportunities as the Walla Walla country afforded to its first settlers. Yet, famed and titled, high-flown Government experts, with big pay and pomp, had officially reported, after expensive examination, that this whole Columbia river basin was worthless for agriculture. When I came here, about all the land that had been taken up in the Walla Walla country was a tract adjacent to and east of Walla Wa;ila ; that which bordered on the streams, where it was fertile and otherwise suitable, and the hollows and level 128 Building a Home. spots containing springs of water and situated on the road from "Wallula to Lewiston. There were but two villages — Walla "Walla and Waitsburgh - and but four Post Offices in all the region of Washington, that lies south of the Columbia and Snake rivers, now compris- ing four quite populous counties, but then all belonging to Walla Walla county alone. So there was yet plenty of vacant land to choose from. But the fruitful neighboring mines were quite worked out, and valleys near them had been settled and put in cultivation to supj)ly their wants ; so these markets and sources of money supply were mostly gone ; river freights were so high, that no produce could be shipped down to the sea ; the great Columbia and Snake river basin was without a market, and times were getting hard when I settled in the country. This Columbia and Snake river basin is quite barred in from the sea by the Cascade mountains. But the Columbia river gorges through it, making a good natural outlet and inlet to and from the sea, which could have been made available and almost free to the people at a comparative slight expense, by Washington or Oregon, or both, in overcoming some rapids which obstruct navigation. The available ground by these rapids was soon acquired by a close company of secret brethren, who — by building eighteen miles of narrow-gauge railway — were allowed to hold the whole country between the Rocky and Cascade mountains by the throat, and levy a tribute of untold millious on its j)eople. They were thus taxed fifty to one hundred dollars per ton on all their imports, except what was hauled in over the mountains on wagons. And a like tribute on all exports to the full amount each kind of produce could pay, and continue to be produced. To own or control the transportation of a country, is to virtually own the whole business of it ; because such owners can thus reap all of the profits in the production of all of its produce. What more could they get if they ivere made (hunts and Dukes and sole j^roprietoi's of the land and j^eople? The tribute paid to these brethren by the United States Government alone, for the passage through their custom house The "France Settlement." 129 gate, of military supplies, etc., would have more than built these eipjhteen miles of narrow-gauge railroad, worked a great saving to the Government, and afforded to the inhabitants of the country the utility of about 1000 miles of navigable rivers; which would be better than the same number of miles of rail- road built and given to the people. And the money overpaid to this charitable (?) ring in but a few (of the many) years by the people, would have thus opened these rivers, and besides have grid-ironed the country with narrow-gauge railroads to them. But the people, not being advanced beyond the claptrap- catchwords of " Democrat " and "Republican" (both meaning the gang), allowed brethren in the ring to hold office to the extent that nothing was ever accomplished against its interests and for the people's general welfare. Finally (1876) to hold out false hopes to the people — so they would not rebel and would continue to vote for the brethren, and to further fill their pockets — the general Govern- ment was caused to commence a $5,000,000 or $6,000,000 lock- canal around the obstructions, which has been used as a blind for big appropriations by Congress to enrich the gang, — there being comparatively little work done to open the river. There has never been an editor in all this upper country, who dared to give the true secret inwardness of this nefarious job of clutching by the throat and choking off from the people, for one or two generations, a thousand miles of navigable rivers that drain a fertile grain and mineral producing country, that in its natural resources is only surpassed by that drained by the Mississippi and its tributaries. And when the Govern- ment frequently spent as much money as was needed to utilize all this on single wagon roads and trails that were of little use. And the Washington and Oregon Legislatures (of brethren) squandered away as much at single sessions. When the markets of the mines failed to be equal to the supply, and the natural channel of trade to the sea and the world being still in the hands and power of a foreign — " mogul king" — secret government, that had its custom house in the only pass of the country, and was stabbing our Government into submission, the settlers had to do as the Indians had done 9 130 Building a Home. before — go into stock raising. This demand for stock cattle kept their price up, until the time I came here, (1870) when, there being a surplus, they gradually fell to half or one-third of the former price. A man bought a lot of yearlings at that time at twenty dollars a head, and sold them three or four years later for the same price — their growth just equalled their decline. The country was on this downward turn when I settled in it. Though the people were hopeful that they would dislodge the mystic pirates on the river ; that the N. P. railroad, or some other would be speedily built to Puget Sound, and the people be permitted to prosper. " Where every prospect pleases and only man is vile." The land claim I had located, was a mostly level and fer- tile one-quarter section of prairie, with a good spring and building site by it, and it was adjacent to the Walla Walla and Lewiston road noted before. But it was fourteen miles from timber and wood ; on which account my means were scant to do the necessary fencing, building, breaking, etc., to afford a living without working for others at least fourteen miles away; as nothing could be raised on the place for a year or two, and perhaps no profit the third or fourth. There are many expenses to meet all the time in making a home, though no help be employed, and accidents will occur. One little one is enough to break a settler all up^ if it throws him into the hands and power of a lawyer or doctor. It being secretly fixed with the courts of justice (?), that either can get or spoil all that the victim has, though known to be guilty of inhuman deceit and malpractice. Thus do so many blacklegs thrive and homebuilders fail. And the necessary outfit of team, wagon, harness, plow, harrow, feed, seed, tools, grub, etc., to work with, costs quite a sum. Of course, one expects to get along for years with the kind of a house, furniture, out-buildings, etc., that he can build him- self, by perhaps exchanging work with his neighbor, if he has any, wherein one cannot work to advantage alone. Nor can he spend much time in them either, as he has so much other work, such as breaking, fencing, hauling, etc., etc., that must be (131) 132 Building a Home. pushed ahead, or he will be overtaken by the hounds, and never make a living on the place. The situation must be looked in the face, and fully com^ prehended without blinking, and any regard for fashion or appearance to others spurned. My first team was of wild, half-breed Indian horses ; would have to catch them with a lasso, and they would snort, buck and kick to a wagon. And such a wagon ! It was like those scattered about to adorn (?) the lawn of a blacksmith shop. But I built 3000 rails for it all the same ; not on account of its beauty, but to put off the greater expense of two hundred dollars for a new one, —the secret charitable (?) pirates at the river charging a tariff of fifty or seventy-five dollars on a wagon ; and so a plow cost thirty or forty dollars ; and on hard wood, so that an axle tree, tongue, etc., cost ten or fifteen dollars each. A man paid eighty-five dollars to have a common farm wagon repaired. Remember going to a fourth of July celebration and on other business, and when I went to hitch up, found the double and whiffle trees had been used and left at a distance, when with an ax, piece of a rail and picket rope, I made another set in a very few minutes for the occasion. Such was the outfit we went about with to keep ahead of the hounds, when not on horseback, in building a home and competency, and it took two packs of ravenous, blood-thirsty bloodhounds, and the prosti- tution of the Government, to hound, intrigue, stab_and ring us down. We would jest and ridicule with those so disposed at our outfit, or anything of the kind, and hold it to be a new fashion, soon to be imitated by all ; which happened to be about so, when, ha\'ing cut the bush of my horses' tails square oft' for an attractive mark I had never seen or heard of, that I would more surely hear of them when they strayed away ; for after- wards this mark became the fashion of the world, and men adopted it for its beauty, who had ridiculed it to me as ugly and detestible. Not having means enough to go ahead to advantage on a claim so distant from timber and wood, and hearing of a fertile prairie and timber country at the head of the Alpowa, about The "France Settlement." 133 twenty-five miles away, where " there were natural meadows of clover," and situated nearer Snake river (the prospective market) and Lewiston (the best present market), and through which were I adian trails and a shorter route for a through-road from Walla Walla to Lewiston and beyond, I went to see about it. Passing over an extensive stretch of unsettled, rich, up- land prairie, bordering on Padet creek to the west and Tu-Can- yon to the east - striking the Indian trails — then going down into the big, deep Canyon, crossing its wooded bottom and stream up towards the mountain ; then up and over the brakes on the trails ; over another stretch of high in altitude, but pro- mising prairie, reaching south to the mountain, and east and north to the breaks of the Pataha (Pa-tah-ha prairie). Settle- ment on both of these up-land sections had lately been com- menced, and two or three houses built on each. You see now, that the " sections " and settlements are separated by canyons and gorges, and the rough, rocky breaks bordering thereon. Following the Nez-Perce trails (as did Lewis and Clarke the same in 1804) down and across the Pataha gorge and creek, where it forks ; then on a ridge, between the Pataha and breaks of the head of the Alpowa, for four miles, and here lay the spot I was looking for. It is likewise high in altitude, but is interspersed with belts and groves of timber — of pine, intermingled with fir, tamerack and cottonwood, (giving this tract of country a pleas- ing, park-like appearance, in striking contrast with the treeless expanse on three sides, as far as the eye can reach — a view of fifty miles), with prairies intervening, that are unlike in ex- tent, evenness and fertility ; they being partly arable, and partly pasture lands. Of course, there were no roads across the gulches ; it was as scantily watered as other sections ; the clover meadows were a delusion ; no post-office, school-house, blacksmith shop, sawmill, grist-mill, or store nearer than twenty-four to thirty miles by trail, and forty to fifty by wagon road. And there was nothing of the kind this side of the big Tu-Canyon or Snake 134 Building a Home. river — with its six dollars ferriage to Lewiston. And there was no grist-mill at Lewiston, " Alpowai " is Indian for " Spring Creek." It empties into Snake river. Two missionaries— Dr. Whitman and Spaulding — stopped a short time at the mouth of this stream on their arrival from the States to this coast, in 1837, when they planted some apple seeds here for the Indians. From these seeds have grown some very large, fruitful and famed trees — living monu- ments of good men, and the oldest mark of civilization in the Walla Walla country, if not in the North-west. Twenty-five or thirty Nez-Perce Indians still (1889) live, farm and raise stock on the lower creek. But the " Old Indian Orchard " is not theirs anymore. They long ago renounced their tribal relations and are good citizens. At one time they loaned some horses to volunteers, to fight hostile Indians, for which they never got any pay or even the animals back. And when Colonel Steptoe and his force got whipped by hostiles beyond the river — in 1858 - old Timothy led them out of a death trap, and, with the other creek Indians, ferried them across the river in the night — thus saving the lives of over a hundred men, and for which the cowardly-ingrate Steptoe never even said " thank you." Timothy's wife died recently (1889), aged ninety-five years; she remembered Lewis and Clark quite well, and how well they were entertained by her people. The oldest Nez-Perces revere the memory of Lewis and Clark, as the first white men they ever saw (1804). At the time of this land hunting trip (1871), when I located my place, there were five or six white men living on the Asotin creek, twelve to twenty miles to the south-east, — only one of whom had a wagon — but there was not a white woman in what is now Asotin county. Jerry McGuire, Noble Henry and Wm. Hopwood were the first settlers, I believe. Joseph Harris and Dan Faver lived on the Alpowai creek, Dudley Strain on the Alpowa-ridge-prairie (which lies between the Alpowa and Pa- taha). The latter was soon joined by Mr. Harris, who had a band of cattle to help them out. They and their families (eight miles away) were our nearest permanent neighbors for The "France Settlement." 135 several years, and, happily, they were good and useful ones in times of need. The foregoing, with the fifteen ol* twenty men living on the Pataha creek and prairie to the north-west, constituted the po- pulation of the region between Tu-Canyon, Snake river and the Oregon line — now forming two quite populous counties. There was, indeed, a branch Indian trail route — up the Pa- det creek through this park-like tract (at the head of the Alpo- wai) - to Lewiston and the Asotin country, and no practical route across the Alpowa between this and the other one, (that I travelled sixty miles on when I came to the country and stopped in the " Upper Tou-chet " section), and to the south are the Blue mountains. But to make a wagon road across Tu-Canyon and the Pataha required a great deal of work, which could not be done until the country along the route was some- what settled up. And there was road work to do in crossing the wooded gulches here. In one of these gulches, where the trail crossed it, there flowed, for a quarter of a mile or more, the principal spring, or springs of water for several miles around, and fertile prairie land lay more adjacent to this spring, than to any other, that would afford water for so large a band of stock and for other business. Here was " water, wood and grass," with a good sheltered building place, joined to land ready for the plow ; which is joined by enough more laud that is destitute of water, so as not to be valuable to others, on which I could lay my other land rights, or buy, so as to have enough for a spacious home and business, to justify the pioneering and toil necessary to under- go in the building of a home alone in a wilderness. The Government justly gave to the pioneers of Oregon and Western Washington claims of 640 acres of rich bottom and prairie lands, bordering on rivers flowing unfettered to the sea; and it was death to a jumper. Patents to 8000 such "donation claims '' were issued. Yet, when I had more surely earned, and obtained by subsequent and more exacting laws, a less tract of land in a back wilderness, bottled up and strangled from the sea by the gang, the grasping, black-leg, midnight, blood-suck- ing hounds held it to be death-deserving, to hold and enjoy it. 136 Building a Home. This I will prove in one place and another so plain and posi- tively, that none but a contemptible, villainous thief will dis- pute it. After looking around, I laid the customary " foundation," (four poles in a square) by the big spring of my hopeful desire, and posted a notice that I hereby claimed it, with a quarter section of land about it, October, 1871. This land being then unsurveyed, it could not be designated and filed on at the Land office, which was at Walla Walla. Nor could one tell, within forty rods, where his lines would be, till it was surveyed. As the claim I had located before was also on unsurveyed land, I therefore had not used, or lost any land- right in locating and disposing of it. So I had the pre-emption and homestead rights to use here, and the timber culture and desert land rights left to use elsewhere, if I so desired. There were a few other claims taken in this locality about this time by others, and more the following summer, but they were all abandoned in a year or two, after more or less work. For this locality was so far away from supplies, that had to be hauled by such a round-about way, or packed in by the Indian trail, and there being no one anywhere near, who was able to give employment to those short of means, necessary to meet expenses and go ahead with their improvements ; with every- thing to buy at big prices, and nothing to sell, it was a hard struggle to get along. There was a surplus produced on the Pataha creek, along the road ; but oats, barley and potatoes were two or three cents a pound ; hogs, eight cents gi'oss, and wheat, one dollar a bushel. And this in the face of a limited and declining market. Prices got less towards Walla Walla— which was the Egypt of the new settlements - and greater towards the mines of Idaho and British Columbia. A future market depended on a river or rail outlet to the sea, and on a numerous immigration, that must consume before they could produce. The prices of merchandise were between that of a settled farming country and a mining camp. My store bills for seven years, after we were married, run from $150 to S350 a year. However, thinking that what by our ability, industry and The "France Settlement." 137 economy we honestly earned, we could hold and enjoy in peace, we concluded to go to work and build a good and spacious home here, and we went at it full of hope and ambition, to succeed in the face of both ridicule and earnest advice. One who did not toil or spin, yet gathered in other people's barns and things, impressed me with other and easier ways to get a competency, than such a hard and homely way. "There are other ways for you to get along, better than by work — whatever you do, let such work be the very last thing to think of doing," he said. And he warned me of the tangled meshes of perplexity, and the treacherous, deadly mire of grim con- spiracy and treason, that is masked and planted in the way, to stab, bleed, ravage and murder the homebuilder ; examples of which will be given in other chapters. True, I had some business ability and experience in the real and living world, and by linking in with the gang that prostitutes the courts, could have acquired larger tracts of land and ready made homes without any toil, as so many charitable brethren do. There were others with ridicule or advice, who had not ability enough to make a living for them- selves. But no one questioned our rigJit to build, hold and enjoy a home here if we could; and certainly no one then envied the prospect or place. Some declared they " would not settle in that neck of woods for a deed to a township of land." But, having no responsible guardian, I went ahead and laid in a supply of necessary implements, tools, etc. ; grain for feed and seed ; a few hundred feet of lumber ; a year's supply of grub, clothing, etc. ; settled up my accounts ; gathered up my stock — in which our start thus far mostly consisted ; parted from what little civilization there was, and went to work on the place. Our house was a log cabin, neither spacious nor elegant, but being the best we had ever owned, it seemed to us to be both spacious and elegant. And the furniture would have sold for not more than $2.50 in a town. But, " the house and home of every one should be to him as his castle and fortress, as well for his defense against injury and violence, as for his repose. " 138 Building a Home. " The true test of liberty is in the practical enjoyment of protection in the right. Where the same laws extend to all the citizens of differ- ent denominations ; where the poorest claims obtain redi'ess against the strongest ; where his person and property is secure from every insult within the limits assigned to him by the known laws of his country." Thus we started out on the rugged road — that not one in fifty travels over successfully — without pomp or assistance, but full of love and hope, agreeing in all things, truly in earnest to succeed, and asking no favors of men. Nor were we at all dismayed by any such stumbling blocks as the first, cast in our way at the critical outset — the worse than stealing of a few hundred paltry dollars in property, that was an absolute gift and heritage to a child from her grand- mother, greatly enlarged by her own skillful endeavors. In travelling in the West, as in moving, etc., one carries picket-ropes, grain, grub and blankets and camp out, because money can be more easily saved in this way, than made by working ; and, except an occasional ranch on a main road for such accommodation, houses of any kind are not often available, even in a storm. But with a good outfit and agreeable com- pany, camping out can be made enjoyable. The plows in the west are of steel, and must be frequently sharpened by a blacksmith. The nearest one for me during the first season was twenty-five miles away. He used bark, not having time to burn coal ; he was a skillful mechanic, and Sam Miller was a good man. After this there was a black- smith but eight miles away. When my plow got dull, would hitch on two more horses— making five or six — to stave off such trips. But the hauling of supplies from the nearest ' Egypt,' over long and often bridgeless and otherwise almost impassable roads, to a new settlement, is a great drawback. And when this is prolonged by failure of crops, by insect or other pests, it is so costly and discouraging, that many fall back. The claims about us that had been abandoned were soon relocated by other men, who added somewhat to the improve- ments on the same. But in the following spring these settlers (139) OF THE TT -NT T VF: -R c; T T Y" 140 Building a Home. took spells of gazing intently at the ground. An old prospector —passing through on the trail for a season's prospect in Idaho, with his pack mule following like a dog— inquired of one of these gazing homebuilders, " have you struck a color, pard ? " But he gets no reply or notice ; and no wonder, the ground is indeed " lousy." The homebuilder from Kansas — as he gazes at, kicks and stamps the fertile soil — is heard to mutter " Grasshoppers, by G-d!" His past experience loomed before him like a hideous dream. Heretofore he could mortgage his home for a little of something that was portable, and skip to the trackless West. But there was nobody to invest anything in such a prospect, as was here, and the trackless West was about run down. A company of Nez-Perce Indians rode carelessly and happily by on the trail ; they were well-mounted, also well fed and clothed, and had as good a home as the homebuilder. They were going to some camas or koivsh ground, where a sort of wild potatoe grows in abundance and variety, and where fresh meat could be had for the killing. In a month they would take a fishing excursion, and it was all a pic-nic. As they pass along, the Indians, perhaps, discuss the white man's boasted civilization, and point out examples to their children. Be this as it may, the Kansas and Washington homebuilder looks up at them and wonders why he never had the common sense of an Indian. The hoppers turned out to be big, black crickets, though as destructive as grasshoppers, and often more so, many men wasting a great deal of time in ditching and otherwise fighting against them. This was in 1873. That spring I had twenty acres into grain — on land I had broke the spring before — and a big garden. My first crop. Had also a good start of expensive stock-hogs ; 8000 rails into fence ; and had set out an orchard of about 200 trees ; and had done a good deal of road work. I commenced to ditch against the crickets, but finding it useless, gave up my whole crop to them without a whimper. Some people haven't sense enough to know when they are whipped. They overcrept the land more or less, for fifty miles The "France Settlement." 141 around, taking the gardens, except peas and potatoes, and the small crops of the new settlers. The large fields of grain of the old settlers, being more than a supply for them, were only partially destroyed. While I went straight to breaking twenty acres more prairie for a bigger crop next year. I was the only one in this section that did so ; and in a few months was the only man living on his claim, in the now known as the " France Settle- ment." And nobody yet envied me my possession. The crickets left us potatoes and peas, that they did not like, and enough grain to winter the thirty-five head of hogs, that promised to give us a lift the following year. The pest was an all summer's feast to them. I cradled over all of the twenty acres, and hauled and stacked the grain alone. The same summer and fall this section of country, 6x12 miles — two townships— was sur- veyed, as near as essential, into forty acre-square tracts. So now I could lay my place definitely by the lines, and file my claim to it at the land office, after some months, when the office got ready for it. A portion of my field turned out to be on a "School section," (there being two such in each township) but having settled before the survey, could therefore hold my claim as it was, except that I must draw in or push out to the survey lines. Could take four forty-acre tracts, but they must be con- nected and butt square against each other. Could do this and form the claim either in a half mile square ; a mile long and one-quarter wide ; in the shape of a T, L, or Z : whichever would take in the most desirable land. However, as there was a law — that was being generally availed of in the old settlements — for leasing such school sections, in whole or in part, at a nominal sum ; and as this tract was entirely destitute of water, so that it would be of little comparative value to others, I did not file on any of it, thinking that hereafter I could lease, and afterwards buy — if it 142 Building a Home. was sold — such portion as I might need in my business, and was able to pay for according to present and future laws. I could get a few acres of land in the garden of California, on a clam beach on Puget Sound, or in the Sandwich Islands — enough for a bare living. But, of course, I wanted land enough for a desirable home and a profitable business and for my children. What else was I here for ? What other induce- ment was there to pioneer in a back wilderness while it would produce nothing but big, black, hungry crickets — a hundred bushels to the acre ! Nobody wanted to murder me then for my possessions ! Even the Indians looked on me with com- passion as I struggled along, and they never did us any harm, with all their opportunities to do so. While I was thus earning a competency, members of the charitable (?) gangs were conspiring to steal school and other lands by the section and township, as will hereafter appear. And that they were held up for admiration by high officials who conspired to murder me by inches in cold blood ! Not finding it profitable to raise crickets and grain at the same time, I thought I would try to make something out of the famous bunch grass range. So that summer (1873) I got a band of over 100 stock cattle to keep on shares for half the in- crease. But learned by the following spring that the range for cattle was greatly over-rated, except for those having secret influence at court, so they can make their losses good from other people's bands with impunity. I had provided feed on the range where the cattle were running, and fed those that were unable to rustle. Though it was a moderate winter, and there was grass in sight all the time, but few of them did well on the range. So I traded the business off for six good milch cows with calves, and having two, made eight cows, or sixteen head of my own. The man I traded with made nothing out of the band. Whenever a snow storm set in I straddled a horse and struck out over the range — five to fifteen miles away — to see to the cattle. The "France Settlement." 143 It is a pitiful sight one sees in riding over these western stock ranges in winter. Cattle gather in on streams and ravines for shelter and water, where they will stay and starve for feed rather than strike out and climb for the bare wind- ward side of the hills, or when they are on the leeward side of a hill or gorge, where the sun strikes with good effect and keeps the grass pretty bare of snow, they will stay here and starve for water, and then go to the, perhaps frozen-up, creek, where, if the water happens to be open, they will drink to excess, and then stop in the brush and trees — if any there be — and starve for grass. If no water, they moan and die for a drink. The feed near watering places is always eaten off close in summer. It is here that cattle largely pine, are cast, and die ; here they battle the fates and each other like men ; half a dozen big, long-horned steers gore a single crippled, weakly animal down or fast in a drift of snow or wood, because it does not belong to their band or clan. I found a cow thus wedged into a clump of trees and hanging by the hips with her knees down the bank on the ice, and her calf bleating pitifully near by. One sees many calves bleating in despair, pining and dying by their cast, dying and dead mothers, while clans of wolves are barking and feasting on their quivering misery, like clans of human kine. Cattle gather in on the Columbia, Snake and other rivers, inflamed and crazed with burning thirst, crowd out on the ice for an opening in the stream, when the ice breaks and they are drowned— whole bands at a time. Early in the spring, before many owners know what the winter has left, cattlemen of the clan that rules th« court, strike out and gather up about everything that can travel, drive them out of the country - often to British Columbia — and sell out, to do it again and again. But when one, who has been but a hired hand for these gentry, steals but a few head on his oivn account, he is branded as a " cattle thief," his prop- erty divided among the court gang, and he is sent to the peni- tentiary for five or ten years. The survey plats being received at the local land office, from Washington, I filed my Pre-emption claim and received the following receipts : (lU) The "France Settlement." 145 I had from six to thirty-three months from date of settle- ment to pay $200 for this claim and get a patent for it, when I could take a homestead claim. It being uncertain as to the time I would need to do this, my settlement was dated only about a year before I filed. The word " Unoffered " means that the land was not for sale out- right, as it had been about Walla Walla up to 1870. I had been working to get a county road laid out from near Dayton, up Padet creek, through this section to Lewis- ton. And with the assistance of Messrs. Stringer & Whaley (then living on Tu-Canyon) it was viewed out, surveyed, mile posts set and granted — fifty-two and a half miles — October, 1874. But there was yet much work to do to open it, which cost me — first and last — much time, labor, and other expense. And afterwards I likewise secured the cross roads that are in this section. The cricket pest was still (1874) in the land, and besides, it was a dry, hot season. I had sown 60 bushels of grain — mostly wheat — that I had hauled fifty miles ; did not make enough out of the forty acre crop to pay for the seed. The Mogul pirates, still having control of the rivers of the country, and the immigration being the wrong way, my ex- pensive hogs were only worth two and a half cents a pound. So the crickets were of no more use than the River Clan. Some of the clan about this time relieved the county treasury of about $20,000 in cash. Theii an error (?) was "discovered" in the security bonds. All the officials were sworn brethren, so nobody was punished, and the people paid for the charity ! A man built a wooden and strap-iron railroad from Walla Walla to the Columbia river, thirty miles. He got $5 and up- wards per ton for freight, though much was hauled on wagons as before. But the river tariff was so high that it did not pay to ship grain anyway. There were not even any grain shipping facilities on Snake river in 1874. Up to this fall, with all my hard work and farming and expenses I had had nothing to sell 10 146 Building a Home. but some horses and cattle from my little herd, and was $200 in debt. But had manaj^ed to yet have a good start of horses, cattle, hogs, hens, etc., and had pushed my improve- ments way ahead : yet, nobody envied the place. All the places about us were now again either abandoned for good by the owners, or for an indefinite time, and we were alone in the settlement. Even our staid neighbors — Harris and Strain — were about to leave the " damned country." I was berated and my sanity questioned — more than usual, and in no uncertain sound — ^because I did not join in cursing the country and leave it when others left. But such rebukes of fortune— as natural pests or accidental injury — not being due to conspiracy, treachery, or breaches of trusty caused in me no bitter sorrow or any loss of sleep, and we were not unhappy. Moreover, I had quit prospecting for an undiscovered, ready-made fortune, had settled down to earn at least a liveli- hood ; did not expect a picnic and had not found any. And the other new settlements before noted could be bought entirely by the claim for much less than the costs of the improvements, and some of them were now deeded land. Many who had got in debt, and most all had that could, had to sell their places for what they could get to other home-seekers, who were able and willing to take their turn. Money was very scarce and hard to get. Old settlers left their families and went 200 or 300 miles away to work for money, to pay for their land and to meet other expenses. Those who had bands of cattle, horses or sheep, and were out of debt, could hold their own and more, with good manage- ment and no bad luck. I had made some money by working and hauling for others, etc., and bought a better wagon, harness, plow, etc. And now sold all of our cattle except two, also a horse, hogs, potatoes, chickens and butter ; paid up what I owed, bought seed for another year— still fifty miles away — and laid in a full year's supply of provisions, clothing, etc., and some cash in hand for another siege. Plowed ten acres in December, when it set in cold, for a very hard winter. And we made a The "France Settlement." 147 visiting tour of six weeks as far as Walla Walla and beyond. Then I hauled and cut up my regular year's supply of wood for stove and fire-place- spring of 1875. The country between the Snake and Columbia rivers — known as the "Palouse" and "Spokane" sections — through which the Northern Pacific railroad had been located, had been more or less settled up. But on account of the tariff extorted by the river pirates, and failure of the other charit- able clan to build the promised railroad, almost all of these settlers, except those well provided with stock, had starved out and were now leaving the country for Oregon, California, and the States. Immigrants came in and took their places. Others who held their own, or did even better — in spite of the adverse situation - were set upon and pillaged more di- rectly by brethren with influence at court, and their places also were taken by others. Some left the route of the railroad to settle nearer Snake or the Columbia river, thinking it would be opened first. But it is still fettered by the sworn clan. The cricket pest was now past, but the hard winter, to- gether with the bottled condition of the country and other afflictions, further discouraged settlers, and during this sum- mer of 1875, many also left this division. But others came in to take their places and continue the struggle on both sides of the river, until their successors should come. And a few of the claims that had been abandoned about us were re-located. I spent much valuable and often thankless time in riding about and otherwise assisting these migratory land hunters. My house and grain stacks were always open to them without charge, as well as to all travellers passing through on the trails. As my place was widely known and often the only convenient place to stop at, many availed themselves of it ; were frequently crowded in this way. Besides farming, in 1875, 1 worked with my four horse team in hauling for others, including freight from Walla Walla to the Lewiston stores. It was five years this fall that I had worked hard and put it mostly into this place. And having it improved enough for practical use, I wanted to prove up and 148 Building a Home. get a patent for it, so as to add to it au adjoining quarter section below, that was vacant. I asked a man to lend me the necessary $200 at one and a half per cent, a month for the purpose. " Yes,'' he said, " but I must have other security besides a mortgage on the place." Yet I had done $600 to $700 worth of fencing and breaking, and $200 or $300 of other work on it. It is about the usual thing with homebuilders to have to face a lawyer or doctor's bill of $250 or more — for a week's service of mal-practice, backed by the ring courts — at this stage of the struggle, or before, when it takes $5 worth of hard earned property to get one dollar in money. Pause and reflect. I had escaped this, though I had sacrificed $350 at one time, and $250 at another to thieves, rather than undertake to buy justice of the court gang. So was able to borrow $200 (of another money-lender) to prove up and deed the land, which I did and filed a homestead claim. Then, having built a log house, 16x22 feet, corral, sheds, hen-house, etc., on the best building place, at the lower spring in the spring gulch before noted, and just on this homestead claim, we moved there September, 1875. The 320 acres contain 160 acres of arable land, the rest being either timber, steep or rocky, but all good for pasture. What good rail timber was handy had mostly been cut and hauled many miles away, so I had to go as far as six or seven miles back in the mountain for my future supply. But I had good teams now and wagon, was practically free of debt, had means to employ help, was otherwise so much better fixed lo get along than at the outset, and there being no more insect pest, that we just loped right along and ahead of the country. Columbia County was formed out of Walla Walla County this fall. And as there was now about 200 settlers this side of Tu-Canyon, they started a town in it (" Marengo "), made an effort to build and own a grist-mill, and vote the county seat to this place. They lacked the votes necessary to get the capital, but money and work was generally subscribed by these poor 1 H in I ^ H OQ 1 Q s o ^ H o HH ** ^ U> &« W w &H (149) 150 Building a Home. half-housed, mortgaged settlers to build the costly mill as a joint stock concern. Here was a chance for some brethren having secret influ- ence at court, to get control and engage in a swindle. Of course they did, and did nothing but manage the business against the victims, and grasp for money. The mine was equal to what would be a moderate lawyer or doctor's fee for each outside investor. Fbom the Press, Seven or Eight Years from the Beginning. " The Marengo mill difficulty lias at last been arranged. The remaining indebtedness of the concern has been raised among the unfortunate ones who signed the notes, although it will nearly break up a number of our best farmers to pay the amount subscribed." Also. — "Mrs. "W. S is very sick. It is doubtful if she will recover. She is destitute, all her means of support having gone to furnish whiskey and other luxuries for some of the Marengo mill thieves." Some got very indignant at me for refusing to take any stock in, and for ridiculing this scheme. One of whom after- wards skipped across the British line and started a masonic newspaper with his plunder. After the hard winter of 1874-5, common stock cows fell to $10, and the remnants of bands left by the winter were sold very cheap. Even stock men were breaking up now and leav- ing the country in disgust. Horses, however, were more re- garded, so one was no longer laughed at in reply to an offer to trade them for cattle. I thought this the time to buy cattle, and in the following winter bought twelve good milch cows at $20 each, making 15 in all besides their calves, and soon had a fine band of cattle. In 1876 I threshed 1,000 bushels of wheat and barley (and had lots of other produce) being the first grain I threshed with a machine. It was the first time I could get one, or a thresh- ing crew ; and now had to go eight miles to do so after em- ploying every settler and land hunter in my settlement. And had to take a ten horse power outfit that took three and a half days time a,nd pay, all around, to do the one days work, and leave one-third of the grain in the straw. The ground yielded thirty to fifty bushels to the acre. The "France Settlement." 151 And for the ensuing six or eight months A-No 1 wheat and barley would not sell for more than 25 cents a bushel any- where in the county, or in Walla Walla county either. " Never before have I heard so much talk about hard times. The general question now is, is your grain attached ? There having been several attachments in this part. Cannot the merchants avoid heajung costs [say $150 each] on the already overburdened farmer until he can market his wheat ? " Later. — "It is asserted by some of the inhabitants that there is not money enough in the county to pay its territorial tax, and we noticed four dei3uty sheriffs rustling for county taxes. One of these rustlers, but a short time since, was loud in his denunciations against having the stock sacrificed to get tax money, but he struck a happy thought, so he wrote to the sheriff for a dejjutyship and obtained the same. About the first man he struck shamed him off of his place. Property must be sold for taxes if buyers are to be fonnd, and if not, then the county will have to collapse. We were told that one of the county commissioners said it was impossible for him to pay his taxes. " However, I was fixed to pay my harvest and other ex- penses without selling my grain for 25 cents a bushel, and found a market at Lewiston that winter for the wheat at 45 and 50 cents a bushel, and barley at $1.25 per hundred pounds ; the latter delivered at Fort Lapwai, twelve miles beyond. Don't know what it cost the Government, lohich should buy direct from the producer. I induced the ferryman (Mr. Piercy) to cross my four-horse outfit over the river for $2 a round trip. I believe this was the first crop of grain ever ferried across Snake river. There was no one living on the road at the time from one and a half miles beyond my place to Lewiston, or between that place and Fort Lapwai. I had before made the first wagon tracks from my place to within five or six miles of Lewiston. During the summer and fall of 1876 there was quite a large immigration in this country, and the vacated claims about us were again taken and many new ones located. And settlement to farm was commenced in the "Dead- man," " Meadow Gulch" and " New York Gulch" sections, lying west of the lower Alpowa and south and east of Snake river, and north of the stage road and the Pataha creek. I believe 152 Building a Home. the first grain raised in this section was in 1878, after which time it was mainly settled. Two miners on the way from the Idaho mines had perished from the cold, or been killed for their dust at the head of Deadman hollow and creek near the road— hence the name of " Deadman." The gulch and stream are about 25 miles long. And settlement to farm was commenced in the Asotin country to the south-east. As it was also on the bench or plateau lands about Lewiston, 1876. With this immigration and these settlements, a town-site ("Columbia Centre ") was located four and a half miles west of my place, on this new road, at the forks of the Pataha, and a steam saw-mill, grist-mill, store and blacksmith shop set up. And the towns of Pomeroy and Pataha City on the creek lower down were started — each with a grist-mill, store and blacksmith shop, 1876-7. All of these places were between our place and Tu-Canyon, which up to this time had to be climbed over on the way to the mills, stores, graneries, etc., of " Egypt." A grist-mill was also built at Lewiston, 1876-7. Asotin City was laid out at the mouth of Asotin creek on Snake river, 1878 ; is now the capital of Asotin county. Sometimes immigrants settle in family or little contracted sectarian groups, each grovelling close within, averse to each other, the people and the world — as in a strange and foreign land, so that a full and general neighborhood meeting and greeting of a Sunday is never seen. While others of a more travelled and expansive turn, yearn to encompass broader fields. The one as insects whose world is but a single leaf. The other as comprehensive man, whose visions see and com- prehend the whole tree and forest. Yet by the sting of an insect, man may die, and by their multitude forests be destroyed. In the spring of 1877 the settlers in this " France Settle- ment" had a schoolhouse meeting, at which we agreed on a location for the proposed school house ; subscribed the neces- sary lumber, other material and work. And afterwards met from day to day, and built the best school house except one, I believe, then in the county. CHAPTER XI. An Indian war. — Neighboring Indians go on the war-path. — The reason. — Description of their domain. — Their horses and cattle. — "A job on Uncle Sam." — How they plead for their country. — "Earth governed by the sun, " etc. — Whom they killed. — How they marched and fought. — Settlers either stampede or gather in fortresses. — Efforts made by men to have other tribes break out. — For plunder. — Wliat an Indian must do to become a citizen. — How Indian claims are jumped. — What the Indian was before the advent of the Whites. — Their government, pursuits, etc. — What fire-arms and whiskey did for them. — How they started fire, lived and died. Their religion. — How to improve the Indian. — "A cry of the soul " i HE summer of 1877 Chief Joseph and his band of Nez-Perce Indians, joined by White Bird and Looking Glass with their bands of the same, went on the warpath against Gen'l Howard and his army, assisted by Generals Gibbons and Miles with their troops. The Indians numbered less than three hundred men, besides their women and children. They were non-treaty Indians, and each band owned separate tracts of country. Their country had been bartered to the Government many years before by a chief, who was not, however, recognized as such by this portion of the tribe. They denounced the trans- action as fraudulent, and could never be induced to receive any portion of the stipulated annuities or pay. The Government had built a grist- and saw-mill, and established an agency, and fenced and broke for them patches of land. But they were not to be deljided into civilization, and be governed by ring agents in any such way. They could see nothing in the mode and vexation of living, as practiced by the ignoble poor and ignorant of the Whites, to cause in them any desire to become similarly situated. They believed white men and their agents to be vile, grasping, treacherous, tricky and mighty uncertain. And the chiefs de- clared, that their people could not be educated to successfully compete with them, and combat their whiskey and contagious and loathsome diseases. As it was, they were healthy, well to do in their way, happy (153) 154 An Indian War. contented and free, and liad leisure from toil. They could not see more for them in civilization. They could not expect to achieve for their race, that which a great majority of the white race were ever struggling and toiling for, but failed to possess and enjoy. Joseph's band consisted of eighty or hundred men, besides their women and children. I had seen him, and talked with many others of his band ; and was well acquainted with several of his tribe. One of whom had been to Washington, when they were bartering off their country, of which distinction he was very proud. It can easily be imagined, how the more simple of the Indians could be deluded, and the more vicious other- wise managed, by experts, employed but to succeed. I suppose the records at Washington show that every foot of land now, or ever, claimed by the Government, was honor- ably treated for and bought of the Indians. But, if the race was to-day strong, enlightened, and had a newspaper press, to work against diplomatic liars, they could, with any acknowl- edged standard of honor and law in one hand, and a rifle in the other, burst into flinders enough of such titles, to give each tribe a city and a good-sized bank account, — amid the plaudits of the whole world ; when, perhaps, they would take more kindly to civilization. A part of Joseph's coveted domain lay in my county, and, extending into Oregon, where it mainly consisted in the high, frosty Willowa valley, containing about enough arable land for each of his band a farm, less in extent than that allowed to citizens under the homestead, pre-emption and other acts. This section they used for a sifmmer range for their herds of horses and cattle, just what it was best calculated for. The rest of their country was steep, rocky, wild and craggy ; consisting principally in a canyon, about 2500 feet deep, through which runs the rapid Grande Bonde river, which empties into Snake river. Here is where they lived in the winter with their stock; this canyon affording a good winter range for them. There is no river bottom or arable land in it, except a patch here and there of a few acres, some of which the Indians fenced and cul- tivated. But it was all a good game country, and there was also good fishing. One could see bands of deer feeding a mile The Truth about Indians. 155 away, but it might take half a day to ride to them, on account of some deep, steep, rocky ravine intervening. There were also mountain sheep, elk, bear and other game. I was through this portion of Joseph's domain, hunting out a route for a through road from opposite Lewiston to the WU-low-a country for the county. Others with me, who alike indignant and impressed with the ruggedness of it, declared that " Joseph must be putting up a job on Uncle Sam, to get him to buy the waste, and move him and his people to a country more suitable even for Indians." But with its good winter and summer grazing, its good hunting and fishing grounds, its rapid, laughing waters, and it being an inheritance from their fathers for many generations, it therefore just suited Joseph and his band. Joseph portrayed and supplicated with much feeling, in exhortation to the grasping invaders, how his grand father Joseph had, on his death bed, exhorted and obligated his father Joseph with a solemn injunction, to " keep, cling to, and hold with his people this their country," and how, in turn, his father had laid the same injunction on him. But they exhorted and supplicated in vain. These Indians excelled most others in ability, appearance, living, dress and wealth. And they were peacefully disposed towards the Whites. I never heard of them stealing anything from even those who were encroaching on their domain. But the time had come, when they must forsake their country, go on to the reservation, and live as the poor, ignoble and ignorant white man lives, or fight ! In pleading their cause, one of them said, that " the Earth was governed by the sun," and taking a piece of earth in his fingers, crumbled it fine, letting it fall to the ground, saying, that " rather than be ruled by the treacherous, grasping Whites, he would become as that piece of earth;" — dust to dust. And he died, fighting for his liberty and country. When war had been declared against them, they first killed the men they could find who had taken action for their removal from their country, about six. When with the bulk of their horses and their families on the travel with them, they combatted, out-generalled and out- 156 An Indian War. fought over 1000 soldiers, citizens and officials, who were en- gaged against them, in one way or another, all summer. Old soldiers, who followed them all through the campaign to the surrender in Montana, say, that they were better trained and did fight and charge more bravely and desparately than our re- gular or irregular troops ; that their horses were trained to stand alone under fire, while they dismounted and charged the soldiers among the rocks and cliffs ; and that their systematic manoeuvering and horsemanship was unequalled anywhere. They would shoot under their horses' bellies, etc., while riding. An Indian of another tribe told me, that some of themselves had horses trained to drop down behind a bush, rock, fallen timber, or other obstruction, when under fire ; that he had a horse " that had more sense than himself." And these Indians never saw West Point. Joseph sternly opposed the committing of any outrages, usual in war, against persons or property, except as to those, who had or were actively engaged against them ; for which, it is said, the more vicious of them became rebellious. That this element had a captive woman with them, and, after some of their own women had been killed, they killed her in revenge, or that their squaws did it— the same, however, of whom white men frequently marry wives, and, 'tis said, they are good and true. That, after several of their own wives and children had been killed, Joseph saved, mounted on his horses, and sent away out of danger, women of his enemies, and for which some of his men called a counsel to kill him. At the outset it was unknown which way the Indians would go when attacked, to drive them to an equality with the ring- ridden Whites, or what depredations they would commit in re- venge. It was thought by many that they would raid through our and adjoining settlements ; a few soldiers were stationed at a pass back in the mountain, and for a time nearly everybody in the section about us, and to the south-east, either left this part of the country, or gathered into fortresses. Some were warned by Indians to leave. I was busy with my work all the time and did neither. I would sooner trust my home and family to Jo- seph and his tribe, than to many white men with more secret, self- ish and hellish tribal relations; as they are more vile, cruel and 158 An Indian War. treacherous than the worst of savages, as will be made manifest to the most careless understanding. On account of their superior generalship and training, had the different Indian tribes of this upper country been so mind- ed, they could have laid waste all the settlements in the country, as Sheridan did the Shenandoah valley. And secret ring-men tried to instigate and goad them into a general out- break, so as to feast in the blood and destruction. While a peaceable chief (Moses) with good record and principle, was continually riding from one of his bands to an- other, to pacify, prevent and hold them from rising to join Joseph, White Bird and Looking Glass in their revenge, jobs were put up on him, and he was thrown into prison by the gang, backed by a servile press ; just as they do with other outsiders who are in their way, or to grasp their money. It does not appear that either General Howard or the Secretary of the Interior were in with this job ; as to which I herewith give an extract from the official report of the Secretary of the Interior at Washington, dated 1879. " There never was any trustwortliy information in possession of this department, to justify any suspicion as to the conductor intentions of this Indian chief (Moses), on the contrary, he is known to have rendered good service during the Bannock trouble, in maintaining peace and good order among the Indians under his influence. But the efforts to take his life, or at least his liberty, or drive him into hostihties, appeared to be so per- sistent, that it required the most watchful and active interposition on the part of the Government to prevent a conflict. On several occasions I requested the Governor and General Howard to personally interfere and protect Moses." And it is further declared that by Moses' efforts a general Indian war was prevented. In Indian campaigns the transportation and supply accounts are immense, (though the common soldier often fares no better than the Indian warrior without any paid quarter- masters' department), and the plunder therein is a big object to secret brethren. " General Crook was asked if the present campaign would put an end to Indian outbreaks in Arizona. He answered with a smile: *I know and you know that a great many people make The Truth about Indians. 159 money out of Indian troubles. These same people exercise con- siderable influence in control of the Indians.' " The Nez-Perce Indians were rich in horses and cattle, and in land to sustain and enlarge them. Some of them owned one or two thousand horses. And among them were race horses, equal to those bred by their white neighbors, and which they would frequently beat on a track for coin. Several companies of volunteers went to assist General Howard and Co. in fighting these Indians, and they captured a good many horses and cattle. Every few days during the cam- paign some of them would pass my place with a band of Indian horses, and all covered with glory and dust. These bands numbered from a dozen to 150 head. Three men stayed at my place one night with 125 of Joseph's cattle. They thought the Indians had more stock and land than they needed. And men who had never earned a dollar by work in their lives, and would steal and ravage before they ever would work, exclaimed, that " the Indians should he made to ivork ! " To know and comprehend human character of each sort correctly, it must be realized that there are widely different elements and dispositions in each race, tribe and even family. That there are but individuals, or a comparatively small element of the Indians, that will flay alive a captive because he belongs to a hostile, grasping race. And we should show them that there are but individuals, or a small element of Whites, who glory in killing their women of any tribe, and in dashing out the brains of their children on the rocks, or who kill Indians whenever they find them alone and defenseless, just because some other of their race had, perhaps, committed a similar out- rage on some one dear to them long before. And let us look to those of virtuous pretentions, in high station, who directly and indirectly practice, with impunity, heartless cruelties and traitorous prostitutions — deeds of dark- ness that would make a savage blush ! " To become a citizen, the Indian must make affidavit before some qualified person, that he has severed his tribal relations. He must also bring two witnesses, to testify that he has severed such relations." 160 An Indian War. Why is it that they are denounced, plundered and killed for clinging to their tribal relations and government, and re- quired to renounce that first, before they can be citizens with us in our Government ; while, at the same time, we sufi'er sworn subjects of more secret and selfish tribal governments to pass as full-fledged citizens, and to hold office and prostitute our Government, to rob us and the Indian with impunity ? " Sitting Bull is evidently a very observant Indian. He de- clares, that, if affairs continue on in the same groove, the Indians wlQ not have ground enough left, upon which to stretch their tepees and rest their limbs, and that they will have to pay taxes and be as poor and ragged as pale-faces." As follows. — " A delegation of Indians came up, on their way to Fort Walla Walla, for a conference with the commanding officer, concerning the jumping of theii* land The Indian whose land has been confiscated is very intelligent. It seems that he had a small place under cultivation, with fence, house and stable. The jumper has filed on the land, and now requests the dusky Sis- Mow to hiack datawa, or he will blow off the top of his head. Siskiow remarks that he is not as young as he used to be, or he should not allow the jumper, or any other man, to scare him out of house and home. He has concluded to have a talk with the commanding officer and the land agent at Walla Walla, and fijid out whether he has any rights a Boston man is bound to respect." *' This place was the scene of the misunderstanding last spring between the Whites and Indians, which looked as if it might prove serious. It seems but little encouragement for Indians to try and adopt the habits of their ' civilized ' brothers, by locating and cul- tivating their land, if they are liable to lose it any time their im- provements are worth the taking." While we are enjoying the fame, glory, plunder and victory over these poor, damned, friendless Indians, let us at least con- cede to them the skill and the bare, fruitless sentiment of patriotism and valor that is due them. " Slowly and sadly they climb the distant mountain and read their doom in the setting sun." Intelligent old Indians, of different tribes, tell me that they were very numerous in the north-west before the advent of the The Truth about Indians. 161 Whites. That they were healthy, vigorous, and endowed with fine constitutions, and were not on the decline. The principal trouble with them was that they gloried in war and plunder, one tribe with another, and battles in which 1,000 or more Indians were killed, are related. The smaller tribes would often combine to fight a stronger one, such as the Sioux, as do civilized nations. And their great war chiefs were glorified as those of the Whites are to-day. It does not aj^pear, however, that they were quarrelsome or criminally disposed within the tribes, and jDeace and justice were maintained without prisons or taxes, or much trouble or pain. They cultivated no habit or taste that could not be easily supplied to all. They enjoyed and had leisure for the hunt, as much as an English lord. They appear to have been more happy, and have gotten as much good out of life as do the ring- ridden, toiling masses of the Whites. The introduction of fire- arms among them, first by the Hudson Bay Fur ComjDany, in- augurated a more peaceful era among the Indians, as the more destructive war machines have done among the civilized nations. But the whiskey, diseases and vices of the Whites have proved far more fatal to them than their wars. Con- sumption, deadly fevers, diphtheria, small-pox, measles, scro- fula, and more loathsome diseases are said to have been un- knoicn to tJie Indian until they had hioion civilization. Nor did they have any medical colleges or dollar-a-mile doctors. A steam bath in their " sweat house " was a remedy for about all their illness. They had no taste for salt and used none ; nor tobacco, opium, etc. They Parted fires with punk and friction. The whirling of a hard stick set on to punk, by looping the stick in a bow string, will soon produce fire. The greater part of the country west of the Missouri river is more adapted to the raising of buffalo, deer, elk, goat, bear, rabbit, and other game, and horses, than for anything else. And before the advent of civilization — that slaughtered them off for their pelts, and the sport (?) of hunting down, maiming, killing, and seeing God's beautiful creatures suffer, quiver, and die — there was a great abundance of such food supply. Deer was as easily caught as sheep are now, and destroyed the 11 162 An Indian War. crops of the first settlers on Puget Sound. This great natural food supply — together with the fish, clams, berries, roots, and seeds that made a rich flour, afforded food in great abundance, more healthy and better than that had by millions of the children of boasted, flaunted civilization, with all their endless toil, diseases, vexation, sorrow and vices. And by a little care and regulation this natural God-given food and clothing supply could have been increased to support a population — dressed in seal-skin and martin, instead of calico and dungaree — as dense as in the present toiling, vexatious and vicious way. It seems that even in Europe it has been found the best economy to raise game instead of grain. Grasshoppers, un- seasonable weather, fashion, the prosperity of others, had no terrors for the Indians, and they knew not suicide or insanity. Thus did the red man live— able to spurn common toil like a prince, enjoying the sports of the chase like a nobleman, the glories of war like a Bonaparte, Hannibal, and Grant. And had leisure for study and that rest, that the "Whites can only hope and pray for in heaven. This thing, called civilization indeed! has proved to be a humbug to every people in the history of the world that have tried it very long, so that they either calLed a halt, like the Chinese, or perished like the Indian under the ban. As to the religion of the Indian before the advent of the Whites, it appears to have been similar to that of the Chinese from whence the race is believed by themselves to have come (crossing Behring Strait, or by the Islands). It is a sort of Spiritualism — that all animals have immortal spirits. It is in accordance with the same that they had their favorite or attached horses, etc., killed at their death, believing that the attachment and association of these spirits —man and horse, etc. —before death would continue after death in some form if freed of the body by its death. They worshipped the sun, etc., as great sources or main- springs of life and goodness, as some Christian people do the " harvest moon." They say as to their belief in an intelligent supreme ruling power, a living God, " great spirit," " happy hunting ground," The Truth about Indians. 165 or any comprehensive future existence, that this is all an in- vention of the Whites. Like so many of the Whites, the religious belief of most of the Indians is very vague, and they are ready to change it for anything else that will give them cash or in- creased happiness in hand. If the Indians are to be benefitted by the better element of civilization, they must be dealt with more honestly by the Government, and protected against the depravity of the worst elements, masonic agents, etc., or else be permitted to protect themselves against the lurking serpents. And the same can well be said as ifco the simplest and artless of the white race also. A CRY OF THE SCUL. " I have read in tlie lore of long ago How a symbol of our life below Is a boat with palsied men to row, And a blind man at tlie rudder ; Or a pensive, mild-eyed moiher of kine That roots and grubs in the ground like swine, With a serpent at the udder. O shaven priest, that pratest of souls, Knowest thou not that men are moles That blindly grope and burrow ? The field that is gray shall be green again. Biit whether with grass or whether with grain He knoweth who turns the furrow ! It is only a stop from ci'adle to grave. And the step must be taken by kuight and knave. By stuiiid alike and clever ; For sleep is a death that lasts but a night. And death is a sleep when the lips are white. And open no more forever. O poet, be still, with thy maudlin verse ; For singing of love, when love is a curse, Neither mars the thing nor mends it ; And sure as death and sleej) are twins, So life in mystery begins. And another mystery ends it ! 164 An Indian War. And lie wbo only sleejss for a night, Though never before were his dreams so bright, Shall surely awaken wilh the light To another day of sorrow ; So better by far the sleep of the dead, For the sleeper that sleeps it need not dread, Though hard be the pillow beneath his head, The doom of a sad to-morrow. Ah, life is a riddle that none can guess ; And whether it curse, or whether it bless. Depends on no endeavor ; For the spider of fate, with a thousand eyes. Sits weaving its web for human flies ; And the flies buzz ou forever ! And the wolf of hunger, gaunt and grim, Full often stojjs at the door of him Who was cradled in bliss and splendor. And the wolf of sin and the wolf of woe Lie iu wait for souls that are white as snow, For the spider of fate is theii* sender. And the king, who lifted his hand to slay. And the priest whose blue lips tried to pray, And the beggar in rags, who begged his way, All beaten and brown with the weather ; And the poet, who sang his song so sweet That the maiden knelt and kissed his feet. While he wi-apped her about with her winding sheet, They are all rank grass together. And the greener the grass on graves, 'tis said. The surer its roots to be damp and dead, For both have a common mother ; And death is a rest, and death is a spell; And life is heaven, and life is hell, But each completes the other. Ah, true was the myth of long ago, That a symbol of our life below Is a boat with palsied men to row, And a blind man at the rudder ; For life is a pensive mother of kine. That roots and grubs in the ground like swine, With a serpent at the udder." OF CHAPTER XII. Indians, conlinued.—Ch.iei Joseph.— White Bird.— Looking Glass, and In- dians generally.— The Wliite Bird fight.— These Indians in early- days. — Their flocks, herds and fine farms. — The result of the war to the Indians. — "Cold-blooded treacheiy.'" — How cJiief Josej^h treated white prisoners.— "Tlie glory of the West."— Col. Steptoe's defeat.— "For God's sake, give me something to kill myself with." The others saved by other Indians.— An ingrate.- Col. Wright's victory.- 690 horses butchered. — How Wright treated Indian prisoners. — "The Chief Moses outrage."— $70,000,000 squandered by the gang. Will resume as to the Nez-Perce, or Joseph, White Bird and Looking Glass outbreak, and Indian affairs generally, by condensing from the press. The White Bird Fight, near Fort Lapwai, Idaho, ]877. '' When the Indians attacked Col. Perry with about fifty men, they expected to be repulsed, and then fall back about a mile where was their reserve force of about sixty, entrenched for the purpose of receiving the troops, as they pursued the advance skirmish on their retreat. But their advance never had \o retreat, for Col. Perry and the troops fled in precipitancy almost at the first fire, and never did stop until they had gone four miles up the canyon. The Indian reserve never came into the fight, except a few old squaws, who, on seeing the soldiers in flight, followed close up, to plunder the dead. They were frightened at the first volley discharged in their direction, and Col. Perry was determined to save his own scalp by flight. So demoralized was he, that he said, he kept one charge in his revolver in order to shoot himself, in case the Indians were about to capture him. He had rode down one horse and took another, belonging to a soldier; and had* not W. B. Bloomer, a citizen, notified him of his danger of annihila- tion, he would have rushed into Rocky canyon and been slaughter- ed. Bloomer called to him to stop, when Perry says to him,-"then ■you lead the way out of this." But Lieutenant Theller gathered six or eight soldiers around him, and stood off the Indians and fought them until every man of his squad, including himself, was shot down. And for eleven days Col. Perry's dead soldiers lay mortifying in the hot sun on the field of battle, while the Colonel [a mason] and his fleeing (165) 166 Indians, Continued. force were at Cottouwood in good quarters, and tlie Indians had left and gone to Salmon river and across. The citizen volunteers buried Perry's dead. Manuel lay concealed in the brush near by, and personally saw the Indians, when the}' made their breast works of rails, the number who were there, and the number who sallied out to meet the soldiers ; and he says that not more than fifty of the Indian warriors left the breast works, and that there were not at anj' time more than 200 Indians in the hostile party at the time of the White Bird fight, and from fifty to sixty of these were women and children. After the fight, when they had their revelry over the victory they had gained over the soldiers, Manuel was within a few yards of the x>arty, concealed in the brush, and could see and hear all that was done and said. He is willing to make oath that at that time not more than 200 men, women and children were in the hostile party. Such are some of the facts that [Mason] the pretended histo- rian should have embodied in his pretended history, instead of ex- cusing the commander [Mason], who held the key position on the hill, when the fighting commenced, and could have easily held it." — ^'Lnvisiton Telltr." "Why should the people support a horde of such loafers to command real citizens of the Government in time of war ? "Chief Joseph. — By his performances became entitled to be recognized as one of the remarkable men of the age. One more day's march would have placed him inside the British dominions. For four months he had eluded his pursuers, having travelled more than 1500 miles through the wildest, i-ockiest and most mountainous region in i^merica. He had crossed ranges, leaped canyons, and swam mountain torrents; all this while carrying with him, on this remarkable flight, the women, children and property of his tribe. He had been pursued altogether by several armies, any one of which far outnumbered his force. He had fought five battles against an enemy, supplied with all the re- sources of modern warfare, and each time he had been practically victorious. Had he had the least suspicion of Miles' approach, it is evident that his fertile genius would have eluded his enemies once more, and have been able to laugh at all their toil." "A Black Page of History. — In the fine address delivered before the Oregon Pioneers' Association by Col. Geo. H. Curry, Indians, Continued. 167 we find the following : On the third day from seeing the signal smoke [while immigrating to Western Oregon in early days], we arrived at the rim of the Grande Ronde valley. Looking down upon this, the most beautiful valley in Oregon, we could see large numbers of Indians riding over the plains. No choice was left us, friendly or warlike, we had to pass through that valley, and down the hill we started. Reaching the foot, we soon learned that the Indians we had seen were a large band of Cayuses and Nez- Perces, who, following a custom taught them by Dr. Whiteman, had come this far, to meet the immigrants, trade with them, and protect them from the Snake Indians. Here, for the first time in several months, we felt safe, and went to sleep without guard, leaving our hungry stock to feed at will among the abundant herbage of the Grande Ronde. The smoke which had caused so much apprehension was the Nez-Perces' signal of aid. It was the fiery banner of friendship and succor, sent aloft by these dusky people to proclaim their presence and good will. The sad reflection, consequent upon reading this passage, is, that these friendly Indians, who protected the weary and famish- ing Oregon pioneers, should have subsequently been the object of the most outrageous, unjust and inhuman persecution that our Government ever inflicted upon the Indians. Generals Howard, Gibbons and Miles, who were obliged, under the orders of the Government, to execute Secretary Schurz's inhuman orders for the ejection of the Nez-Perces from their homes, unanimously testified, that these Indians had reached a comi^aratively high stage of civilization ; they had fiocks and herds, had fine farms j were a brave, manly, spirited race of men, and so humane, that they forebore to murder, scalp, or otherwise torture our wounded, that fell into their hands. In their retreat through our settlements they did not mur(?Ier or rob ; they paid for their supplies and only asked a peaceful passage in their flight. Gen. Gibbons describes Chief Joseph as a man of high intelligence, and of superior military talent, whose men were equal, man for man, to our soldiers, and who out-gene- ralled and out-fought us in every fight, [Why should not such In- dians be given commands in the army, over the masons, in times of war'?] When Chief Joseph surrendered to General Miles on honorable terms, which stipulated that his people should not be removed to Indian territory. Secretary Schurz disgraced the 168 Indians, Continued. Government by violating the terms of surrender, [but was the masonic President dead ?] and General Miles ijever ceased to pro- test against this outrage. But Schurz persisted in removing them to a district in Indian territory, where the tribe died of disease, like sheep with the foot rot. The only excuse for the Nez-Perce war was that greedy men wanted the splendid grazing and farming lands of the tribe. [There was plenty of just as good and better land that was vacant at that time ; it was more for the plunder of the Indians of their other property, and the Government, in the furnishing and trans- portation of supplies by the gang that had so much evil influence at court, and are sworn subjects of their secret mogul govern- ment that prostitutes ours.] So these Indians, who had pro- tected the Oregon pioneers, who had offered an asylum to settlers fleeing from the savages in the Indian war, who had laid aside the inhuman practices of scalping and torture of captives, [even while the Government hired and armed other Indians who did this against the Nez-Perc^s], who were rising steadily in the scale of industrial and agricultural civilization ; these Indians were lashed and goaded into rebellion, and fought a heroic fight against our soldiers, who heartily sympathized with these brave men whom they were ordered by the cold-blooded [tools of the gang] to shoot down and evict from their homes. It is the blackest picture in the whole history of the dealings of the Government with the Indian [but it is not very far from a fair sample of the whole], and we have no doubt, that the Oregon pioneers who were aided in the Cayuse war by these Nez-Perees, agree with General Gibbons, who to this day pronounces the Nez-Perce war as a cruel outrage, contrived by [the gang] and executed by a secretary of the interior, who was as cold-blooded and treacherous as the meanest savage that ever wielded the tomahawk and the scalping knife." — Portland Oregonian. Yet he was a pretty good Christian compared to brethren who were appointed to high offices out here. ^'Arkansas City, Kan., March 26, 1885. — Information is received here that the remaining members of the Nez-Perce Indian tribe, with the noted Chief Joseph, are to be transferred from their present reservation in Indian territory, where they are dying by the score from broken hearts, to their old reserva- tion in Idaho. In 1877, when Joseph and his men went to war Indians, Contini-ed. 169 with the Whites, he conducted one of the most wonderful marches and succession of fights in the annals of Indian warfare, and when, at last, he surrendered to General Miles at Bear Paw moun- tain, Montana, in the fall of 1877, he was over 900 miles from his reservation. Chief Joseph, at last, would only throw down his arms upon the promise that he and his tribe should be returned to their old reser- vation. And so well were they intrenched behind stone fences and breastworks, that Miles' men could not dislodge them, and at one period of the fight, when General Miles asked his command if they could not drive them out by assault, they replied, ' Charge hell ! We are not Sioux ! ' it being generally known that the Sioux were the only Indians that would charge the Nez-Perces. The tribe are to be transferred to the land of their forefathers. Of the 600 men, women, and children, who surrendered, over 300 have died of broken hearts, and the only flourishing spot within 100 miles of their present reservation is their graveyard, where newly made graves are to be seen on all sides. Chief Joseph has cheered up his tribe by the words that some time the Great Father at Washington [with the permission of the gang] would keep his word and let them return to their own huuting grounds near the setting sun." "Chief Joseph, the Nez-Perce, who. with his tribe, 800 strong, of the best fighters the United States troops ever met in field, canyon or ambuscade, broke out in June, 1877, and after a march of nearly 2,000 miles, were finally captured at Bear Paw mountain, near the British line, in November, the same year, are now on their way back to the home they love so well in Idaho. Of the 800 who left but 250 are left, and of these 119, with Chief Joseph, -^tII be taken to the Colville reservation, and the re- mainder will be taken to Lapwai. With the single exception of Joseph himself, the Chiefs of the outbreak are all dead, jliooking Glass was killed by General Miles' troops at Bear Paw, Rainbow we saw lying dead with a bullet through his brain and his face up- turned to the sky on the Big Hole battle-ground ; he was the fii'st Indian killed as he was going out at daybreak to gather in his horses. Tool-hool-hool-suit was killed on the same field and his body dug up by Howard's Bannock scouts, scalped, and a general war dance and corrobboree held over his carcass. Caps-caps, who was prominent in the Salmon river massacre [?] is also dead, 170 Indians, Continued. having been killed in one of the numerous engagements. On the surrender, General Miles gave his word to Jose[)h that he should be returned to his own country, but such has been the opposition of the white people [who had stolen their property and had influ- ence at court] it has not until now [when their property is secured beyond their reach so they cannot " make trouble "J deemed ad- visable to allow them to return, and, hence, Joseph will be phiced on a reservation far remote from the scene of his depredations. Whenever he had the opportunity, he spared the lives of the prisoners who fell into his hands, and caused to be delivered, safely and unharmed, two ladies, who with their party were at the time in Yellowstone Park. Joseph interceded and sent them on their way rejoicing, when they had been condemned to death. [I wonder whether these ladies did anything for Joseph's justice when he was in distress.] He has paid dearly for his crimes [?] the vengeance of aU should be glutted by this time.'' [Having got away with their homes and herds, and robbed the Government out of big piles of money ; yes, these gentlemen, who " lashed and goaded them into an outbreak " for plunder, might forgive them now, if they will forget it all and say nothing about it.] ''At last, after waiting nearly eight years, the remnant of the Nez-Perce tribe, which was transported to Indian territory, after the surrender of Chief Joseph, is to be brought back. Of over 500 persons that left, less than half remain, the others filling graves in the land of their exile. The story of this exile is a l^itiful one, and that they have amply atoned for their crime [?] as a tribe few will deny. Since their departure great changes have taken place in their old homes, and their return need cause no alarm, for ii^ will be a broken-hearted, broken-spirited band, filled only with the desire to live at peace with their surroundings, and lay their bones in the soil their ancestors have claimed for generations past." March, 1885. " The Nez-Perces and Cayuses were, by all means, the great- est tribes west of the Rocky Mountains. "Why, they used to roam as far east as the Missouri liver on their hunting expedi- tions, and if they chanced to meet a war part}^ of any tribe, they were ready and prepared to uphold by strength of ai-ms the glory of the West. An officer who fought in the rebellion, told me that some of the fiercest and most valiant fighting he ever engaged in was with Indians, Continued. 171 the Xez-Perces. They, he said, maintained a solid front in battle, and fired and mauoeuvered as if they had been drilled by a gradnate of West Point." But they o«f-manoeuvered and ivhipped such j^raduates. "Story of Col. Steptoe's Defeat by the Spokane Indians. And Col. Wright's Victory over the Same and THEIR Horses. By L., in '■Oi'egonian." In the spring of 1858, some Palouse Indians stole some stock belonging to the Government from the vicinity of Fort Walla Walla, of which Lieutenant-Colonel Steptoe was in command, at the same time certain complaints of disturbances and dangers caused by Indians, and suffered by miners in or proceeding to the Colville mines, were also brought to the same officer's notice. Two miners coming overland from Thompson river, British Columbia, to Colville, had fallen victims to the savage ferocity of some natives, of what tribe it is impossible to say. Such being the case, Steptoe judged it proper to conduct an armed expedition to Colville to inquire into the matter, and punish the murderers and restore order. On his return he " allowed " (Steptoe was a Southerner) to stop in at the home of the Palouses and see about the stock they had lifted. The Palouses were not, on the whole, very desirable neighbors. If there ever existed a people to which they might fairly be compared, it must have been the ancient Scotch borderers, whose business was theft, and whose numbers, as iu the case of the Indian tribe, were recruited from the worst and most desperate individuals of all the neighboring nations. Notice must here be taken of the beginning of the trouble — the proposed government military road from Walla Walla to Fort Benton, on the upper Missouri. [This road alone cost the Govern- ment more than would haA^e opened 1,000 miles of river naviga- tion free to the people, doAvn to the sea. And it was not half built. And the Government spent ten times as much on each of other roads that were never even open to travel, j The military and topographical engineers had pronounced it practicable, and the secretary' of war had ordered the survey. Lieutenant Mullan was ordered to perform the work, and was to have an escort of soldiers from Walla Walla. He was to set out in May, 1858, but so slow were the motions of the authorities that the Indians heard 172 Indians, Continued. of it, and immediately concluded that it was but a move designed for taking away their country. They became nervous, and their spirits being preyed upon bij designing men, they combined for resistance. It is proven by good evidence that when Steptoe and his 150 men set out on ]May 6, 1858, to march north-east from Walla Walla, the supply of ammunition which was intended to be taken, was taken back to the magazine because there was no room for it in the packs of the 100 mules. So the men set out with only the ammunition carried in their cartridge boxes. Hence occurred the disaster. The force consisted of two howitzers, five company officers, and 152 men. The line of march led through what are now Columbia and Garfield counties, and the Snake river was reached at Alpowa creek, where a small band of Nez-Perces resided, whose chief, Timothy — a Christian Indian — was a firm friend of the Whites, and who still continues to live at the spot. Timothy, with three warriors, joined the command — a circumstance upon which de- pended the lives of all. Marching north, the expedition ap- proached four lakes, (the medical lakes) where a great body of Indians were met, who threatened violence if the troops did not at once turn back and get out of the country. It was resolved to return to WaUa Walla. They broke camp at three o'clock in the morning, followed by aU the noisy horde of savages, who seemed intent on fighting, and only waited for the troops to strike the first blow. Saltees, a Cour d'Alene chief, appeared, accompanied by Father Josef, the missionary to that tribe, and held a conference with Steptoe, the missionary interpreting. The chief then shouted something to his followers, when Levi, of the Nez-Perces, struck him on the head with a whip handle, exclaiming, " What for you tell Steptoe you no fight, and then say to your men, wait awhile? You talk two tongues.'' [Getting civilized like a Governor.] Tlie fight began as the command approached Pine creek. Ap- proaching this creek, the command passed down a ravine, and on reaching the stream the Indians commenced firing from the brush on the south side and from various elevated points near by. Lieutenant Gaston charged forward and cleared a way to the highlands southward, and the entire force gained a commanding position. The howitzers were unlimbered and opened on the foe, and one or two charges were made. Two privates were wounded and a blundering soldier killed a friendly Nez-Perce, mistaking Indians, Continued. 173 him for an enemy. Again the retreat was resumed and continued through the forenoon, the Indians following closely and fighting with the troops in the rear. As long as their ammunition held out they were kept at bay, but Gaston's men having fired their last cartridge, he (Gaston) sent to Steptoe requesting him to halt long enough to procure ammunition. The request was not granted. On airiving at Cache creek, word was passed that Lieutenant Gaston was killed, and the order to halt was given. A violent struggle took place over his body, the Indians securing it. Tay- lor was killed there and two privates, Barnes and DeMay, were kiUed or mortally wounded, and another one was wounded by an arrow from a dying savage. Lieutenant Gregg called on the main body of troops for volunteers to relieve the rear guard, but only ten men responded. He ordered them to fall in behind him, but looking back directly after, found himself all alone. The heroic rear guard repulsed the Indians, however, and the com- mand went into camp on the spot. Pickets were thrown out, and such of the dead as could be found were buried here. The howitzers were also buried, but the pack train and provisions it was decided to leave for the Indians, in order to dela}- theii* pursuit. The savages were encamped in plain sight in the bottom waiting the morrow, when they would make a last onslaught and end the contest with a general massacre. Their sentinels had surrounded the camp, and were guarding all the avenues of exit save one, which it was not supposed the soldiers could traverse. But this became their salvation, for the pass was known by the Nez-Perce, Timothy, and through it he led the troops to safety. But for him, probably, not one of the command would have escaped. The night was dark and cheerless, and when the proper time arrived the entire force mounted and followed the chief in single file, as noiselessly as possible, through the unguarded pass. Two wounded soldiers, McCrossen and Williams, the one shot through the hip, the other mth his back broken, who, tied upon horses, begged to be killed at once rather than be tortured by such a ride, and becoming untied, were left alive on the trail, a prey to the Indians — a fearful fate, too horrible to contemplate. " For God's sake, give me something to kill myself with," they cried, as the troops disappeared in the darkness. Through the night the rapid trot or gallop was kept up, fol- lowing the faithful Nez-Perce. 174 Indians, Continued. The wounded were left to take care of themselves, and the line of demoralized and frightened troops passed southward, put- ting whatever of distance they might between themselves and the enemy for twenty-four hours. They rode ninety miles, and reached the Snake river four miles below where they crossed it on the march northward. Going up to Timothy's village, that de- voted chief summoned his own men and put them on guard, while the exhausted cavalcade was ferried across to their haven of refuge, the south side of the Snake. On the 24th of September, Steptoe's force reached the Pataha, where he was joined by Captain Dent, who brought supplies and reinforcements. Here, too, came Chief Lawyer, with a formid- able war party of Nez-Perces, who begged the defeated troops to return with him and try the fortunes of war again with the Northern Indians. But was rejected. Considering the gallant beha\dor of the Nez-Perces, two of the four only escaping alive from the fight, and the services they rendered subsequently, their treatment by the Whites was contemptible. And Steptoe, in an official letter, to swell the number (500 to 600) of enemies which had been encountered, falsely stated that some of the Nez-Perces were engaged in the attack, and omitted to mention then- offer of reinforcements. Then Steptoe was promoted, and then he joined the Southern Confederacy." ''General Clarke at once sent up four companies from San Francisco to re-inforce the troops at Walla Walla. Keyes came up in charge of the expedition, with orders to report to Col. Geo. Wright at Walla Walla. The march of 177 miles over land from the dalles [rapids of the Columbia river] was very exhaustive, as it was late in June. At that time (1859) the sound of a steam- boat whistle had never been heard above Celilo. He built a small fort near the mouth of Tu-Canyon, where he left one company of artiUery, under command of F. O. Wyse. The party, numbering about 900 men in aU, crossed Snake river in boats on the 25th of August, and five days later met the red foe at the Four Lakes, where a battle was fought, which showed the Indians that Hudson Bay muskets were no match for the long-range rifies of the troops. This battle, which is known as the battle of Spokane Plains, ended about fourteen miles from where it began, and was fought in the smoke of burning gi*ass. Not a soldier was kiUed or wounded. The Indian loss was over ninety. [May be so.] On the 8th of September, Col. Grier captured a band of 900 Indians, Continued. 175 horses. These he drove into camp. The officers and the quarter- master were allowed to select a certain number ; two were given to each friendly Indian; and, on the following day, the remaining 690 horses were driven into a high enclosure, and shot down as fast as they entered Toward the last the soldiers seemed to ex- ult in the bloody task, for such is the ferocious character of men. "While the work of destruction was going on, I saw an Indian approaching our camp, carrying a long pole with a white flag on it, and in the cleft end of the pole was a letter from Father Josef, S. J., at the Cour d'Alene mission. He informed Col. Wright that in consequence of our victories, the hostiles were greatly east down, and wished him to be their intercessor for peace. The father added in his communication, that the friendly Indians were delighted at our victories, as they had been threatened by the hostiles for not fighting. On the 22d the command camped on the Nedwall, a tributary of the Spokane, and in came old Owhi, who had been wOunded on the Spokane plains. Wright ordered him to be put in irons at once. That afternoon six Indians were hanged, in squads of three, each. A messenger was then sent in search of Qualchin, the son of Owhi, who came into camp on the 24:th. He asked to see his father, and CoL Wright answered : 'Owhi mitlite yawa.' (Owhi is over there.) As he said this a section of the guard sprang upon Qualchin and disarmed him. He had the strength of a Hercules, and notwithstanding he had an unhealed wound in his side, it took six men to tie his hands and feet. Within an hour, from his entry into Col. Wright's camp, he was hanged, by order of that stern, old warrior." Yet, he had no more right in their country with an armed force, than Bismarck has against the natives of the Samoan Islands at this time, 1889 ; or the English to force rum into Africa, or opium into China, in the name of Christ and civili- zation. ''The Chief Moses Outrage, 1883. The Oregonian has contained an account of the arrival of chief Moses at Fort Van Couver, to protest against the action of the Government in restoring to the public domain a portion of the re- servation, gi'anted to Moses and his people a few years ago. By orders, dated April 9th, 1879, and March Gth, 1880, Presi- dent Hayes set apart for chief Moses and his people, Avhat is known as the Chief Moses Indian Reservation in the big bend of 176 Indians, Continued. tlie Columbia river. It contains about three million acres, and some mining districts, supposed to be valuable. It will be re- membered, that the reservation was set apart after a long con- ference with Moses, who "sdsited Washington and came back with the assurance, that he would never in future be dispossessed of the grant. On the 23rd of February last. President Ai'thur issued an order, restoring a tract about 15 miles wide and 100 miles long to the public domain. The strip is at the northern boundary of the reservation. "^Tiat influence brought about this action by the President, is not known here. That he should have taken such a step, when the faith of the Government was pledged, that the re- servation would not be disturbed, and that step, too, without con- sulting Moses' tribe, is a [masonic] mystery. It is a part of the gi'ievance of chief Moses, that he was not consulted in the matter of taking away his land. Even to this time he has not received official notification of the President's action. His first hint of the order was the presence on his re- servation of miners and squatters, [themselves, or in the interest of a gang of masons, having big influence at court,] who staked out claims, selecting in many instances lands occupied by Indian families. A better scheme to excite the anger of the Indians could not have been devised, and it is surprising that the outrage did not result at once in bloody warfare. And, in truth, only the pro- mise of Moses, to have the matter fixed to their satisfaction, re- strained his people from summary measures. The country has seen, in the case of the Musell slough settlers in California, [that were plundered of their homes by a gang of masons, having con- trol of the courts,] how white men feel under similar provocation, and from that can, perhaps, understand the spirit which Moses had, and has still, to combat. For a long time past it has been known, that rich gold and silver bearing ledges existed in the mountains within the limits of chief Moses' reservation, but it has not been so ivell known, that men [masons], owning immense wealth, have an interest in these mines, and that to their influence, and solely for their benefit, has such a large slice been taken from the Indians, without a why or wherefore, [and given to the gang. Practical miners and real citizens could never have thus acquired valuable property. — Here- after, when the people were trying to repel a fraudulent invasion of Chinese, it mil be seen, how these charitable brethren wrung Indians, Continued. 177 their hands in horror at 'Wiolatiug the plighted faith of the Government," as they were making money out of them, and how they made money out of the Chinese war, as they do in that of the Indian.] The country so thrown open contains fifteen hundred square miles of territory, and, outside the mineral bearing region, con- tains land of very little value. It is known that the Indians are deeply dissatisfied with the act of the Government. That this act of bad faith rankles in their hearts as a most inexcusable and wanton injury. They cannot but intei'prete it as a further declaration, that the Indians have no rights, which the white man or his government is bound to re- spect. They cannot look upon it in any other light, than as a most perfidious violation of the plighted faith of the Government. Moreover, they look upon it merely as an initial encroachment, which will be followed by others, until their lands are wholly taken away, leaving them no dwelling place they can call their own. What has heretofore happened in similar circumstances need not be recited in detail here. The Indians are not numerous. They can muster perhaps 600 men. But a less number of Modocs and a less number of Nez-Perces fought with a courage that won the admii'ation of the country, while they made its army mourn the loss of great numbers of its best officers and men, terrorized the country for hundi*eds of miles, and cost the Government tre- mendous exertions and millions of money [for the gang] to sub- due them. The causes of these risings bear a close parallel to the complaints now made by Moses and his people. In each case it was an attempt to deprive the Indians of their dwelling place without their consent. It is not to be supposed that the President has acted in this matter upon his own motion. By whom were the representations made which led to the order ? In case of an outbreak on the part of these Indians somebody will have to answer this question, [on the contrary, they are sworn to '' ever conceal and never reveal'' these masonic mysteries]. It may be that the delegate from Washington territory could tell about the influence that secm-ed the executive order. [But he was a mason himself]. The [masonic] policy of perfidy and robbery is as poor in point of expediency as it is poor in point of morality. We have paid for these things hitherto in murdered families, depopulated 12 178 Indians, Continued. settlements, men slain in battle, and nntold sums of money ex- pended in Indian wars. The Indian is a strange compound of hasty spirit and stubborn fatalism. He acts from an impulse, dismissing prudence, and taking no thought of consequences ; and when overcome, he accepts his fate with indifference or forti- tude. He reasons that he might as well die at once as to be stripped of his home, have no abiding place and no means of living ; and hence the motive from which he acts is a mixture re- sulting from a sense of injury, a desire of revenge, and a feeling of despair. But the weakness of these Indians let no one despise. "Weak, indeed, they are ; but the poor reptile, trodden upon, has the in- stinct of self-preservation, and may fatally sting. If it was deemed so necessary to get back a part of Moses' reservation, the honest way would have been to open a negotia- tion with him and his people, and satisfy them for the land. The [linked] politicians who shared in the attempt to rob Moses and his people of their land, the crowd who hoped for profit from this crime, and those who from principle, or the lack of it, or from habit, cry down the red man [and the white] without re- gard to the merits of his cause, have attempted to justify the careless [f] act of the President. Unable to make out a case which could demand respect, with the simple truth, they have not hesitated to misrepresent the facts — in other words, they have lied. It is the opinion of officers now on the reservation, that if the old chief should begin hostilities, he would be joined by the disaffected living near him, and that he could muster a force suf- ficiently strong to spread desolation over the whole of north- eastern "Washington, [which would be a mint for the gang]. But warfare on Moses' part has never been feared, unless, forced by the passions of his people, he shoiild have to abandon them oi* lead them." " During the past ten years the Government has expended nearly $70,000,000 in caring [?] for the Indians [?]. The total number attached to agencies is only 246,000, and of these 60,000 in Indian Territory, 7,700 in "Wisconsin, and 5,000 in New York, are supposed to be at least partially self-supporting." CHAPTER XIII. Indians, concluded. — "Tlie Waiilatpu massacre." — The thrilling story of one who, as a giii, was an eye witness and then taken away as a prisoner. — Forebodings of the ninrderons outbreak. — Fiiendly warn- ing given. — The dying hours of Dr. and^ Mi-s. TMiitman. — Mission hfe among the Indians. — As the Indians were in 1852 and then in 1856. — Death of chief Kanaskai— How Indians are preseiTed. — How " ci^ih- zation " was introduced to the natives of South and Central America. The Waiilatpu Massacre. [Mrs. Clark Pringle, whose maiden name was Catherine Sager, and who was one of the children adopted by Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, was 13 years old at the time of this notable massacre. She was an eye witness to all that preceded it, as well as to much that occurred. Her experience was dreadful in the extreme. The f ollo^\^ng article was written by her and sent to Mr. S. A. Clarke, as a contribution to his history of " Pioneer Days, " and by him furnished to The Oeegonian. Some new facts are learned from her account, although, even were not this the case, the narrative it- self would jarove of sufficient interest to attract the reader. Mr. Clarke says: "I consider this the most valtiable description of that sad and terrible affair that ever has been written. Mrs. Piingie possesses rare abihty as a writer, as all must concede."] in the year 1836 Dr. Marcus Whitman and his wife, in com- pany with Rev. H. H. Spalding and wife, crossed the Rocky mountains and settled among the Nez-Perces and Cayuse Indians as missionaries. Dr. Whitman's location was among the latter tribe, in the Walla Walla valley. He and his bride had left civi- lization immediately after their marriage and settled among savages, with the intention of raising them from their degradation. For eleven years they toiled with pleasing success, and were led to think that ere many years should pass their dreams would be realized, that the heathen tribe would be a Christian people. Their only child, a daughter, was drowned when two years old, but they had filled their house with children whom they had adopted. These children were as follows : A nephew of Dr. Whit- man; three half-breeds, named Mary Ann Bridger, Helen M. Meek and David M. Cortez. In 1844 my parents died crossing the plains on their way to Oregon, leaving seven children, the eldest 14 years old, and the youngest a babe of six months. We were at their request taken to the station of Dr. Whitman, and he and his (180) Mission Life among the Indians. 181 wife adopted the seven. Here we lived the happy, careless life of childhood. It mattered not to ns that our associations were con- fined to members of the family ; there were enough of ns to keep the house ringing with mirth from morning until night. Three years this life lasted, and then a storm began to gather and cast its shadow over this happy home. First it was but a small cloud, in the distance ; then was heard low, muttering thunder; finally the whole horizon was overcast and the storm broke with a fury that wrecked and scattered the household forever, castiug a gloom over all coming time to those who survived its ravages. SOME OF THE CAUSES. In the fall of 1847 the emigration over the mountains brought the measles. It spread among the Indians, and owing to their manner of living it proved very fatal. It was customary for emi- grant families who arrived late, to winter at the station, and some seven or eight famihes had put up there to spend the winter of 1847. Among the arrivals was a half-breed named Joseph Lewis, who had joined the emigration at Fort HaU. Much against his will, the doctor admitted this person into his family for the winter. None of us liked him; he seemed surly and morose. There was also a Frenchman named Joseph Stanfield, who had been in the doctor's employ since the year 1845. Up to the year 1847 the Protestant missions had been the only religious influence among the Indians. In the fall of this year the Catholic church established missions among them, and the teachings of the two clashed. The Indian mind is so constructed that he cannot re- concile the different isms, consequently they became much worked up on the subject. Many long talks occurred between them and Dr. Whitman, in reference to the two religious systems. Owing to the sickness, and these other causes, the natives began to show an insolent and hostile feeling. It was now late in the season and the weather was very inclement. Whitman's large family were all sick and the disease was raging fearfully among the Indians, who were rapidly dying. I saw from five to six buried daily. The field was open for creating mischief and the two Joes im- proved it. Jo Lewis was the chief agent ; his cupidity had been awakened and he and his associate expected to reap a large spoil. A few days previous to the massacre Mr. Spalding arrived at the station, accompanied by his daughter, 10 years old. She was the second child boru of white parents west of the Rocky mountains, 182 Indian Massacre. Dr. Whitman's child being the fii'st. She had lived her ten years of life among the natives and spoke the language fluently. Saturday, after his arrival, Mr. Spalding accompanied Dr. Whitman to the Umatilla, to visit the Indians there and hold a meeting for wor- ship with them upon the Sabbath. They rode nearly all night, in a lieav}^ rain. Dr. Whitman spent the next day visiting the sick, and retui'ned to the lodge, where Mr. Spalding was staying, late in the afternoon, nearly worn out mth fatigue. The condition of his family made it imperative that he should return home, so arrangements were made for Mr. Spalding to remain a few days on the Umatilla, to visit among and preach to the Indians. A CONSPIRACY UNFOLDED. As Dr. Whitman was mounting his horse to leave, Stickas, a friendly Christian Indian, who was the owner of the lodge, came out and told him that "Jo Lewis was making trouble ; that he was telling his (Stickas') people that the doctor and Mr. Spalding were poisoning the Indians, so as to give their country to his own people." He said : " I do not believe him, but some do, and I fear they wiU do you harm ; you had better go away for awhile, until my people have better hearts. " Doctor Whitman arrived at home about ten o'clock that night, having ridden twenty-five miles after sundown. He sent my two brothers, who were sitting up with the sick, to bed, saying that he would watch the remainder of the night. After they had retired he examined the patients, one after the other. (I also was lying sick at the time,) Coming to Helen, he spoke and told his wife, who was lying on the bed, that Helen was dying. He sat and watched her for some time, when she rallied and seemed better, I had noticed that he seemed to be troubled when he first came home, but concluded that it was anxiety in reference to the sick children. Taking a chair, he sat down by the stove and requested his wife to arise, as he wished to talk with her. She complied, and he related to her what Stickas had told him that day ; also that he had learned that the Indians were holding councils every night. After conversing for some time, his mf e retired to another room and the doctor kept his lonely watch. Observing that I was restless, he surmised that I had overheard the conversation. By kind and soothing words he allayed my fears, and I went to sleep. I can see it all now, and remember just how he looked. Mission Life among the Indians. 183 The fatal 29th of November dawned, a cold, foggy morning. It would seem as though the sun was afraid to look upon the bloody deed the day was to bring forth, and that nature was weeping over the wickedness of man. Father's (Dr. Whitman) brow was serene, with no trace of the storm that had raged in his breast during the night. He was somewhat more serious than usual. Most of the children were better, only three being danger- ous ; two of these afterwards died. We saw nothing of mother (Mrs. Whitman). One of the girls put some breakfast on a plate aud carried it to her. She was sitting with her face buried in her handkerchief, sobbing bitterly. Taking the food she motioned the child to leave. The food was there, untouched, next morning. LAST HOUR AT WHITMAN'S STATION. An Indian child had died during the night and was to be brought to the station for burial. While awaiting the coming of the corpse, Dr. Whitman sat reading and conversing with his assistant, Mr. Rodgers, upon the difficulties that seemed to sur- round him, the discontent of the Indians, the Catholics forcing themselves upon him, and the insinuations of Jo Lewis. He made plans for conciliating the natives and for improving their condition. He said that the bishop was coming to see him in a few days, and he thought that then he could get the Indians to give him leave to go away in the spring, adding : " If things do not clear up by that time, I will move my family below." Being informed of the arrival of the corpse, he arose, and after calling his wife and giving her directions in regard to the sick children, he wended his way to the graveyard. A beef had to be killed for the use of the station, and my brother Francis, accompanied by Jo Stanfield, had gone early to the range and driven it in, and three or four men were dressing it near the grist-mill, which was running, grinding grist for the Indians. Upon the retui-n from the funeral the doctor remarked that none but the relatives were at the burying, although large nmn- bers were assembled near by ; but it might be owing to the beef being killed, as it was their custom to gather at such times. His wife requested him to go up stairs to see Miss Bewley, who was quite sick. He complied, returning shortly with a troubled look on his countenance. He crossed the room to a sash door that 184 Indian Massacre. fronted the mill, and stood for some moments drumming upon the glass with his fingers. Turning around, he said : " Poor Lorinda is in trouble and does not know the cause. I found her weeping, and she said there was a presentiment of evil on her mind that she could not overcome. I will get her some medicine, and, wife, you take it up to her, and try and comfort lier a little, for I have failed in the attempt." As he said this he walked to the medicine case, and was making a selection. His wife had gone to the pantry for milk tor one of the children; the kitchen was full of Indians, and their boisterous manner alarmed her. She fled to the sitting room, bolting the door in the face of the savages who tried to pass in. She had not taken her hand from the lock when the Indians rapped and asked for the doctor. She said, " Doctor, you are wanted." He went out, telling her to fasten the door after him ; she did so. Listening for a moment, she seemed to be reassured, crossed the room and took up the youngest child. She sat down with this child in her arms. Just then Mrs. Osborn came in from an adjoining room and sat down. This was the first time this lady had been out of her room for weeks, having been very ill. THE STORM BURSTS ON WAIILATPU. She had scarcely sat down when we were all startled by an explosion that seemed to shake the house. The two women sprang to their feet, and stood with white faces and distended eyes. The children rushed out doors, some of them without clothes, as we were taking a bath. Placing the child on the bed, Mrs. Whitman called us back and started for the kitchen, but changing her mind, she fastened the door, and told Mrs. Osborn to go to her room and lock the door, at the same time telling us to put on our clothes. All this happened much quicker than I can write it. Mrs. Whitman then began to walk the floor wring- ing her hands, saying, '' Oh, the Indians ! the Indians ! they have killed my husband, and I am a widow ! " She repeated this many times. At this time, Mary Ann, who was in the kitchen, rushed around the house and came in at a door that was not locked ; her face was deathly white ; we gathered around her and inquired if father was dead? She replied, ''Yes." Just then a man from the beef came in at the same door, with his arm broken. He said : " Mrs. Whitman, the Indians are killing us all." This roused her to action. The wounded man was lying on the floor Mission Life among the Indians. 185 calling for water. She brought him a pitcherfiil from another room, locked all the doors, then unlocking that door she went into the kitchen. As she did so, several emigrant women, with theu* small children, rushed in. Mrs. Whitman was trying to drag her husband in ; one of the women went to her aid, and they brought him in. He was fatally wounded, but conscious. The blood was streaming from a gunshot wound in the throat Kneeling over him, she implored him to speak to lier. To all her questions he whispered " Yes," or " No," as the case might be. Mrs. Whitman would often stej) to the sash door and look out through the win- dow to see what was going on out of doors, as the roar of guns showed us that the blood-thirsty fiends were not yet satisfied. At such times she would exclaim : " Oh, that Jo Lewis is doing it all ! " Several times this wretch came to the door and tried to get into the room where we were. When Mrs. Whitman would ask, *' What do you want, Joe"?" he would run away. Looking out we saw Mr. Rodgers running toward the house, hotly pursued by Indians. He sprang against the door, breaking out two panes of glass. Mrs. Whitman opened the door and let him in, aud closed it in the face of his pursuers, who, with a yell, turned to seek other victims. Mr. Rodgers was shot through the wrist and tomahawked on the head ; seeing the doctor lying upon the floor, he asked if he was dead, to which the doctor replied, " No." MRS. WHITMAN FALLS ! The school teacher, hearing the report of the guns in the kitchen, ran down to see what had happened ; finding the door fastened, he stood for a moment, when Mrs. Whitman saw him, and motioned for him to go back. He did so, and had reached the stairs leading to the school room, when he was seized by a savage, who had a large butcher knife. Mr. Sanders struggled, and was about to get away, when another burly savage came to the aid of the first. Standing by Mrs. Whitman's side I watched the horrid strife, until sickened, I turned away. Just then a bullet came through the window piercing Mrs. Whitman's shoulder. Clapping her hands to the wound she shrieked M-ith pain, and then fell to the floor. I ran to her and tried to raise her up. She said, " Child, you cannot help me, save yourself." We all crowded around her and began to weep. She commenced praying for us, " Lord, save these little ones." She repeated this 186 Indian Massacre. over many times. She also prayed for her parents, saying : '' This will kill my poor mother." The women now began to go up staii's, and Mr. Rodgers pushed us to the stairway. I was filled with agony at the idea of leaving the sick childi'en, and refused to go. Mr. Rodgers was too excited to speak, so taking up one of the children he handed her to me, and motioned for me to take her up. I passed her to some one else, turned and took another, and then the third, and ran up myself. Mr. Rodgers then helped mother to her feet and brought her up stairs, and laid her on the bed. He then knelt in prayer, and while thus engaged, the crashing of doors informed us that the work of death was accomplished out of doors, and our time had come. The wounded man, whose name was Kimball, said that if we had a gun to hold over the bannisters, it might keep them away. There happened to be an old broken gun in the room and this was placed over the railing. By this time they were smashing the door leading to the stairway. Having accomplished this they retired. All was quiet for awhile, then we heard foot- steps in the room below, and a voice at the bottom of the stairway called Mr. Rodgers. SAVAGE TREACHERY. It was an Indian, who represented that he had just come ; he would save them if he would come down. After a good deal of parleying he came up. I told mother that I had seen him killing the teacher, but she thought I was mistaken. He said that they were going to burn the house, and that we must leave it. I wrapped my little sister up, and handed her to him with the re- quest that he would carry her. He said that they would take Mrs. Whitman away and then come back for us. Then all left save the children and Mr. Kimball. When they reached the room below, mother was laid upon the settee, and carried out into the yard by Mr. Rodgers and Jo Lewis. Having reached the yard, Jo dropped his end of the settee, and a volley of bullets laid Mr. Rodgers, mother, and brother Francis, bleeding and dying, on the ground. While the Indians were holding a council, to decide how to get Mrs. Whitman and Mr. Rodgers into their hands, Jo Lewis had been sent to the school room to get the school children. They had hid in the attic, but were ferreted out and brought to the kitchen, where they were placed in a row to be shot. But the chief relented, and said they should not be hurt; but my Mission Life among the Indians. 187 brother Francis was killed soon after. My oldest brother was shot at the same time the doctor was. Night had now come, and the chief made a speech in favor of sparing the women and children, which was done, and they all became prisoners. Ten ghastly, bleeding corpses lay in and around the house. Mr. Osborn's family had secreted themselves under the lloor, and escaped during the night, and after great hardships reached Fort Walla Walla. One other man escaped to this fort, but was never heard of again. Another fled to Mr. Spalding's station ; Mr. Kimball was killed the next day ; Mr. Spalding remained at Umatilla until Wednesday, and was within a few miles of the doctor's station when he learned the dreadful news. He fled, and after great suffering reached his station, which had been saved by the presence of mind and shrewdness of his wife. Mr. Canfield was wounded, but concealing himself until night, he fled to Mr. Spalding's station. HOW DR. WHITMAN FELL. The manner of the attack on Doctor Whitman I learned afterwards from the Indians. Upon entering the kitchen, he took his usual seat upon the settee which was between the wall and the cook stove ; an Indian began to talk with him in reference to a patient the doctor was attending. While thus engaged, an Indian struck him from behind on the head with a tomahawk ; at the same moment two guns were discharged, one at the doctor, and the other at brother John, who was engaged in winding twine for the purpose of making brooms. The men at the beef were set upon ; Mr. Kimball had his arm broken by a bullet and fled to the doctor's house. Mr. Hoffman fought bravely with an ax ; he split the foot of the savage who first struck the doctor, but was overpowered. Mr. Canfield was shot, the bullet entering his side, but he made his escape. The miller fell at his post. Mr. Hall was laying the upper floor of a building ; leaping to the ground he wi'ested a gun from an Indian and fled to the fort. He was never seen or heard of afterwards, and it is surmised that he was murdered there. The tailor was sitting upon his table sewing, an Indian stepped in, shot him with a pistol and then went out ; he died at midnight after great suffering. Night came and put an end to the carnival of blood. The November moon looked down, bright and cold, upon the scene, nor heeded the groans of the dying, who gave forth their 188 Indian Massacre. plaiuts to the chill night air. Mr*. Osborn's family was concealed where they could hear Mr. Rodger's words as he prayed to that Sa\dour whom he had loved and served for many years. His last words were, " Come, Lord Jesus, come quickly ! " The clock tolled the midnight hour ere death came to the relief of these victims of savage brutality. The dead bodies lay where they fell, from Monday night until "Wednesday, when the Christian Indians, among whom the doctor and his wife had labored for eleven years, and from whom the natives have received nothing but kindness, gave consent to have them buried, but not one of them would help in the task. Jo Stanfield was set at the work. A grave three feet deep and wide enough to receive the eleven victims was dug, and the bodies placed in it. Wolves excavated the grave and devoured the remains. The volunteers who went up to fight the Indians gathered up the bones, placed them in a wagon box, and again buried them, and this is all the burial these martyrs of Americanism in Oregon have ever received. A monument is now being built to their memory. Catharine S. Prindle. Pioneer Days. A brief history of the Whitman mission-life at "Waiilatpn. — The murderous tribe of Cayuse Indians and their ideas of treachery. The final scene of massacre. . [Written for the Sunday Oregonian.'\ Endowed with a pure religious devotion, Marcus Whitman, a physician of good repute, and Narcissa, his wife, in the prime of a life of activity and usefulness, devoted themselves to missionary work among the Indians of Oregon. There was something above the ordinary demands for such service in the circumstance that attended this act of devotion on their part. A story that bordered on romance, and partook of the old crusaders' spirit, called for recruits to go to the far Columbia, and attempt to Christianize the heathen tribes that had lived so many ages in ignorance upon the farthest waters of the great river of the West. A message sounded on the Missouri frontier that resounded through the United States like the Macedonian cry for help. A small company of Flatheadsand Nez-Perces found their way across the intervening wilderness and arrived at St. Louis one half century ago, who said they came to ask that some Mission Life among the Indians. 189 man competent to teach the true religion of the Whites should come to make their people acquainted with the Saviour that the Christians worshipped. One of them had died on the journey to the East. It is hardly possible to imagine how this little com- pany of seekers of the light made up their minds to take this journey, and finally accomplished it. There must have been careful selection of the most competent for the mission ; much advice as to the methods to be followed, and much caution as to the best course to be pursued. Certain it is that this embassy was entitled and commissioned for this purpose, and found its way as far east as St. Louis. They probably accompanied some returning party of fur traders, and made themselves useful on the way. St. Louis was the metropolis of the fur trade, and they naturally reached that city in such company. It was like an electric shock to the Christian people there to know that from the farthest "West there had come to them this message and demand for Christian teaching for the tribes beyond the Rocky moun- tains. A CHRISTIAN FUR TRADER. Among the few fur traders who found their way to the Pacific, there were a very few who were zealous Christians and lived lives of fervent piety, surrounded though they were by men whose impiety was proverbial. One of these was Jedediah Smith, the partner of Sublettes, himself one of the best known men be- yond the Western frontier. Jedediah Smith spent much time among the Flatheads, which tribe was very closely related, it is said, with the Nez-Perces. The language spoken is the same, or similar. During his association with these tribes Smith gave them some information of the Christian religion, and of Christ, the Saviour. These teachings fervently impressed the minds of both tribes, for they had traits of character readily impressed by religious instruction. They were by nature far superior to most of the natives of Oregon of that day. It is said that it was in consequence of the words and work of Jedediah Smith that they finally equipped and sent eastward the embassy that asked for Christian teachers to expound to them the true story of the white man's God. So this word reached the frontier and thence tra- versed Christendom, and resulting in the sending hither the several missions first established among Oregon Indians. When Jason Lee and his company came, they intended to locate among 190 Indian Massacre. the Flatheads, but concluded to winter here in the Willamette. The result was that they located here permanently. But the first Methodist mission came in response to the appeal we have men- tioned, and was turned from that purpose after arrival in Oregon. Whitman came for the same purpose, and his associate went to the Nez-Perces, whilst he planted the standard among the Cayuses. It is related of the four who came on this wonderful mission to the East, only one finally returned to his home and his people. Two were taken iU and died while at the East, and another died on the way home. Their mission was one of peace, but it was fraught with unseen and unapprehended danger to those who bore it. They ventured far from home, and laid down theii* lives in the service of theii* people, and in the cause of true religion. They sounded the cry from a far country for help, and did not live to see the realization of their hopes. ANSWERING THE CALL. Dr. Whitman, in company with Rev. Samuel Parker, com- menced the journey to Oregon in the spring of 1835. They journeyed as far west as the American rendezvous, on Green river, where they found a party of Nez-Perce Indians, who hailed their coming joyfully. They agreed to take Mr. Parker with them to the Columbia, and meet Dr. Whitman on his return the next year, with reinforcements strong enough to do good work. A young Nez-Perce, who was called "Lawyer," heard of their presence, and went to see them at their rendezvous. Dr. Whit- man took back with him two Indian boys to be educated at the East. As the tribe was well represented at the rendezvous, the missionaries were able to make arrangements of a satisfactory nature for the establishing of missions in their country. In 1836, Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, and Rev. and Mrs. Spalding, with W. H. Gray, as financial agent of the missions, crossed the plains to Oregon. They journeyed with fur traders to Green river, where they found their Nez-Perce allies in waiting. The Indians proposed making quite a detour to carry out their plans for buffalo hunting, and as Whitman found a party of the Hud- son's Bay Company going direct towards the Columbia, he accepted an invitation to accompany them. One of the Nez-Perc6 chiefs went with them as an honorable escort. So they reached the Columbia, where the Whitmans located Mission Life among the Indians. 191 a mission on the Walla Walla river, five miles below the city that now bears that name. Mr. and Mrs. Spalding went a hundred miles east and made a station at Lapwai, in the heart of the Nez- Perce country. It is not necessary to fm-nish particulars of their journey across the continent. Enough has been said on that sub- ject in reciting the adventures of many others. They were warmly welcomed and immediately went to work to build stations and erect mills and establish schools. It was a great event to these native tribes to have Christian teachers, as well as civilized workers, among them. They, for a while, appreciated their ad- vantages, but in time became accustomed to them as a matter of course. This was especially true of the Cayuses, who were, among the most savage and barbarous of all savages. They constantly imposed upon the good nature and forbearance of their teachers and made life distressing to them. locating the mission stations. Dr. Whitman lived and labored among these people for eleven years, from 1836 to 1847. He taught many of them the rudiments of education and the arts of civilized life. They were instructed in the use of tools to some extent, furnished lumber, and were received and entertained at the mission. Much pains were taken with the young, and much kindness shown the older ones. In 1838 another mission was established in the vicin- ity of Fort ColviUe, among the Spokanes. In 1839 a print- ing press was at work at Lapwai, and a number of books and pamphlets were published for the use of different Indian schools. Still another mission station was establislied farther up the Clearwater, at Kamiah. So the natives of that region had efficient teachers and good schools. Only at Wliit- man's station was there ever any serious trouble or iU feeling. Individual cases of rudeness or misconduct occurred, but there was fair appreciation and good feeling, except among the Cay- uses, whose religious sentiments and convictions never overcame their savage natures to make them reliably peaceful, and con- sistently kind and honest. difficulties and dangers. From 1836 until 1841, for five years, there was no opposition to the Protestant missions or outside interference with the mission work. The Hudson Bay Company was in full accord. 192 Indian Massacre. Thougli liimseK a Catholic, Dr. MeLougliliu was truly a Christian man, and treated Whitman with the truest sympathy and person- al kindness. [Dr. McLoughlin was the Father of Oregon.] The two men naturally accorded in their personal relations, and the officers of that company generally were friendly. But about 1841, the disturbing cause that was to be so potent for harm, be- came established among the natives on the Upper Columbia in the presence of Catholic priests, who seciu'ed a hold, and left no means untried to increase it. Among Cayuses there were not only differences of belief in the tribe, but some families were of divided allegiance. Up to this time there had been no serious trouble, but now the record we have shows that these in- famous Cayuses forced indignities upon Dr. Whitman that he could not resent. His Christian character was at stake. He must bear and forbear, and some of these wretches took advantage of this fact to impose upon him fearfully. At one time he was struck, or had his ear pulled, b}' a man he had taught the Christian virtue of forbearance. He tui-ned the other ear and the savage pulled that also. It was one man and a defenseless family, among a horde of miscreants. It would seem that the confidence shown by coming there, so defenseless, with no object but their good, would impress even the soul of a savage, but not so with Cayuses. I cannot believe that the presence and teachings of a rival religion had not some part to account for these indignities and massacre towards which they culminated. DISTURBANCE IN THE FOLD. The history of missions proves the weakness of human nature. Differences occur even among those who devote their lives to the elevation of humanity. This is especially true of missions in far- off places, where the missionary is altogether removed from the influences of society. Thus it happened in this Indian mission that at an early day disagreements occurred. In 1841, A. B. Smith and wife left for the islands. Letters had gone home to the American board, derogatory of the working force. The natives very possibly saw that differences existed among theii' religious teachers, and that fact may have worked to a disadvantage. There is no reason to believe that these differ- ences lasted longer than when several who were dissatisfied had withdrawn. You have published already a letter from Rev. E. Walker to the board that treats boldly and plainly of the dis- Mission Lite among the Indians. 193 turbing- cause. It is not necessary to repeat it now. The Cayuses were veritable savages. They would at times become enraged for some cause and be dangerous to all at the mission. Whatever irritated them made them ferocious and long for blood. After a war trip towards California, where they murdered many of their old enemies, they returned home to dance around their bloody scalps, and threaten death promiscuously. At that period the mission party was in great fear, but time passed and the Indians became good tempered. At one time they were much impressed, because one of their chiefs on his death bed professed Christian faith, and in his last hours experienced an ecstacy of joy, and gave them good counsel. CAYUSE ILL NATURE. In all the upper country there were in 1840 to 1850 only a few trading posts and a few mission stations, with no settlers and no military posts. The missions were defenseless, save as the Hudson Bay Company's agents bravely espoused their cause. Mr. Gray had built a new house ; an Indian one day came in and placed himself between the cook and the fire, and would not leave. Mr. Gray very properly put him out, after kindly asking him to stand aside. Then he went to the corral and took a horse. When Whitman was appealed to he supported Gray. This led to an angry talk ; Telonkait, an Indian chief, pulled the doctor's ear ; the man of peace turned the other, and he pulled that. He threw the doctor's hat three times in the mud and struck him on the breast. Having been unable to force Whitman to some resist- ance that would be an excuse for a massacre, he desisted. Arch- ibald McKinlay was chief trader at Wallula. He called the Indians there, shortly after this occurrence, under pretense of wishing to buy horses, and gave them a terrible overhauling for this treatment of one who came among them only for their good. He said it was the conduct of *' dogs," which they bitterly re- sented. They finally admitted they had done wrong. McKinlay threatened that a force should come up from Vancouver to punish them if they did any harm. They had gone to the fort at this time with the apparent intention to capture it. They had made threats to that effect that Whitman reported to McKinlay by a coui'ier. This trouble was tided over, and for some years there was no particular cause for complaint. In 1842, Whitman went East, making the midwinter journey heretofore related. He 13 194 Indian Massacre. returned in the summer of 1843, with the large emigration that permanently settled the status of Oregon as an American country. He found his mill burned, and that his wife had been obliged to take refuge at Vancouver from the insolence of the Cayuses. The Indians were doubtless disturbed by the interest Whitman took in peopling the country with white settlers. They looked with alarm on this great invasion of Americans, and their preju- dice against Whitman was somewhat effected for that reason. So the three years passed, from 1844 to 1847, and whilst their prejudice was more confirmed. Whitman was unwilling to aban- don the field. He saw, and frequently spoke of, this hostile senti- ment, and expressed an intention to abandon Waiilatpu, but unhappily did not make the movement. DISAFFECTION INCREASES. At this time a change had taken place in the officer in charge at Fort Walla Walla. McKinlay, Whitman's fast friend, was living at Oregon City, and his successor at this post was Wm. Mc- Bean, who was also a Catholic. Both at Whitman's and Spalding's stations there had been considerable improvement among the In- dians in their occupations, and a number had joined the church. But in 1847 disaffection became more manifest among the Cayuses, and Whitman thought seriously of submitting the question of his leaving or staying to their popular vote. He felt, however, that to leave would be to abandon the field to the Catholics, and that was something his pride could not submit to. This season was unfortunate, because disease spread among the natives and many died of it. Whitman, in his capacity of physician, did all he could for them, but their habits of life were such that he could not treat them satisfactorily. Whitman's place was on the line of travel taken by the emigrants, and was a place of general rest for the weary sojourners fresh from the plains. The presence of so many Americans there and the fact of so many others passing through to occupy the country, may have had an unfavorable effect. A VIEW OF WAIILATPU. It is necessary to take a view of the mission and its occupants in the autumn of 1847 to understand the situation, as well as to appreciate what the mission had accomplished for the practical welfare of the Indians. The mission was a resting-place, refuge Mission Life among the Indians. 195 or hospital for emigrants or Indians alike who might need its care. Here was the church where the principles of religion were taught and schools were established to educate white and Indian children, besides which every effort was made to teach the Cayuses and WaUa Wallas the common arts of civilization and the best methods for cultivating the soU. For their benefit not only church, school and library were sustained, but there were labor lessons given, and saw- and grist-miUs, shops and granaries had been erected. A valuable cabinet of specimens of natural history had been collected at the superintendent's residence. There was a spacious building for the Indians, another for travellers. The saw-miU was eight miles up Mill creek. On the 5th of September, 1847, seventy-two persons occupied these premises, consisting of the Whitmans and Rodgers, the mis- sionary, with ten adopted children, waifs from the plains, whose parents had perished by the way. Seven of them were the Sager family, and there were three half-breed children. Twenty-two persons occupied the superintendent's house. Joseph Stanfield was a Canadian and Joseph Lewis was a half-breed Indian who had crossed the plains from Canada the preceding year, and had received employment after he recovered from a serious illness. He was a wretch, who should have had some love for his benefac- tors instead of being the fiend he soon proved. There was Miss Bewley and her brother ; Mr. Hoffman, Mr. Soles and Eliza Spal- ding, daughter of the missionary. There were fifty others of the last immigration resting there on their way to Western Oregon. Bewley and Sales were sick patients. Ten of the emigrants also were sick patients. Such was the composition of the mission family. whitman's work. It can be seen that Whitman's work was most beneficient and useful to all mankind. Here, in the midst of savages, Dr. Whit- man had lived through eleven years and had patiently endured privations and hardships to benefit a race that could not appreciate his devotion. To them he brought civilized life and its comforts without any resulting benefits to himself or to his family. His character commended him so greatly to Dr. McLoughlin that the great chief factor felt for him the warmest friendship. Differing in religion, they respected each other; strongly differing in all political and national purposes, they were more than friends. While the Hudson's Bay Company was bringing over colonies to 196 Indian Massacre. people Oregon and make it British by occupancy, Dr. Whitman went East to lead back a great emigration that should make this country distinctively American. In all things, save personal re- gard, these men were at swords' points and antagonized. It shows the nobility of soul that each possessed; that, laying aside these points of difference, they met as something more than friends. McLoughlin invited Whitman to Vancouver when the troubles of 1841 occurred, and recommended that he should withdraw from Waiilatpu for some time until the Indians should feel his absence and ask his return. This was sound advice. A few weeks before the massacre Dr. Whitman was at Oregon City and visited his friend Archibald McKinlay. When he told the latter that a chief had jestingly said to him that '' the Cayuses had con.sidered whether they ought not to kill off all the medicine men, and that as he was greatest among doctors, if they did so they should be- gin with him," McKinlay was alarmed. He told Whitman that behind a savage jest there was always deeper meaning; that he was in great danger if such a remark had been made. But Whit- man answered that he knew it was only a jest, though he did not like his position and did not intend to long retain it. When re- turning from that trip, after receiving the deepest warning Mc- Kinlay could give, Dr. Whitman met a company of emigrants on the way down to The Dalles and was invited to talk to them over the evening camp fire. He did so, and Judge Grim remembers well that he spoke very plainly of his danger among the Cayuses and said it was his intention to remove before many months. A TREACHEROUS VILLAIN. Joe Lewis was employed by Dr. Whitman as an act of kind- ness, and was therefore about the house and with the family. So the Indians found it' convenient to believe the various stories he told them of what he saw and overheard. It is not easier to ima- gine a blacker soul than this wretch possessed, and less easy to depict in words the vileness and blackness of the treachery and falsehoods he proved capable of. He had been the recipient of kind treatment during illness, and when able to work was furnish- ed employment. All the instincts of common humanity would have been roused to appreciate this kindness, but Joe Lewis had no such capacity. He was in a position to do the greatest possible harm. As an inmate of the mission house he was privileged to hear the ordinary conversation that occurred there. As a half- Mission Life among the Indians. 197 breed Indian he could and did ingratiate himself with the Cayuses and obtained not only their confidence, but a certain power over their minds that came from his acquired abilities among the "Whites. Lewis insidiously repeated to these credulous and prejudiced be- ings who could not hear a story they were not mlling to believe, conversations that he pretended to have overheard in the doctor's house. It was a time of terrible trial among them all. At the mission there was a hospital of sick patients and many of the Cayuses were sick ; thirty had died and the voice of lamentation and mourning was all around them. CAYUSES IN council. After the massacre occurred. Gov. Ogden, of the H. B. com- pany, came up in the interest of humanity to secure the safety and return of the numerous captives held by the Cayuses. Before his arrival on December 20th, the Cayuse murderers held a coun- cil at Umatilla, where Bishop Blanchet was present. He said their object was to prevent war, and if they had met in council before the massacre, most likely it would not have occurred. Several In- dians made speeches and explained their various complaints. The Chief Telan-Kaiht spoke for two hours. He recounted the killing of the two Nez-Perces who went east with Mr. Gray in 1837. (They were killed by the Sioux.) Also that the young Chief Eli- jah was killed by Americans in California. He claimed that as the Indians forgot these things so the Whites could forget the massacre at Waiilatpu. They sent word to Gov. Abernethy "that a young Indian (Joe Lewis) who understands English and who slept in Dr. Whitman's room, heard the doctor, his wife and Mr. Spalding express their desire of possessing the land and animals of the Indians; that Mr. Spalding said to the doctor: 'Hurry giving medicine to the Indians that they may soon die;' that the same Indian told the Cayuses : 'If you do not kiU the doctor soon you will all be dead before spring ;' that they buried six Cayuses on Sunday, November 24th, and three the next day; that the schoolmaster, Mr. Rodgers, stated to them before he died that the doctor, his wife and Spalding poisoned the Indians ; that for seve- ral years past they had to deplore the death of their children ; that, according to these reports, they were led to believe that the Whites had undertaken to kill them all, and that these were the motives that led them to kill the Americans." 198 Indian Massacre. THE MASSACRE. The morning of the massacre, matters were proceeding as usual at Waiilatpu, and there was no indication of unusual feel- ing on the part of the Cayuses. There had been numerous deaths among them from measles, caused greatly by their indiscretion and methods of treatment that made the medical advice of Dr. Whitman and his prescriptions of small avail. Many of the Whites at the mission were also in hospital, and only that native superstition was roused and controlled reason, they should have seen that they had no cause for suspicion that Joe Lewis told the truth when he said that he had overheard Mr. and Mrs. Whitman and Mr. Spalding plan their wholesale poisoning. They believed Whitman possessed supernatural powers, and were incensed that he did not exercise them for their benefit. Early in the afternoon of November 29, 1847, school had been called, an ox had been slaughtered and was being dressed at a little distance from the house, and quite a number of Indians came about the same, as was their custom when an animal was slaughtered and a carcass cut up. This unusual number attracted the attention of Dr. Whitman, but caused no alarm. The con- spirators assembled in this manner, with arms concealed under their blankets. One of them called the doctor out, complained of iUness and demanded medicine. When the doctor was attending to this man, Ta-ma-hos came behind and felled the doctor with two heavy blows of a tomahawk. This initiated a general butch- ery, and once let loose, the demoniac nature of the Cajoises had full sway. They killed Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, Missionary Rod- gers. Schoolmaster Saunders, two Sager boys, Messrs. Marsh, Kim- ball, Gill, Gittern, Young, and the two sick men, Bewley and Sales. Mrs. Whitman was the only woman slain ; the lives of other women and childi'en were spared. Mr. HaU, Mr. Canfield, and Mr. Osborn and family, a child of Mr. Hayes, and two adopted children concealed themselves in the confusion and escaped in safety, after much suffering and anxiety, to Fort Walla Walla, twenty-five miles north. CHIEF TRADER M'BEAN'S LETTER. The families of Smith and Young were at the saw-mill, eight miles away, and were brought to the station the next day. The intercession of peaceable Nez-Perc6 chiefs was influential to save their lives. There were four men, including two grown up sons. Mission Life among the Indians. 199 The Cayuses had in their hands fifty-one prisoners. The young men of the tribe appropriated the women and girls among their captives to their own lust, and to a fate worse than death. On arrival of the fugitives at Fort Walla Walla, Chief Trader Mc- Bean sent an interpreter and man to Waiilatpu to rescue any sur- vivors, and forwarded letters to Fort Vancouver with a statement of the facts as he heard them, and wi'ote as follows : " Fever and ague have been raging here and in this vicinity, in consequence of which a great number of Indians have been swept away, but more especially at the doctoi*'s (Whitman's) place, where he attended on the Indians. About thirty of the Cayuse tribe died, one after another. The survivors eventually believed the doctor had poi- soned them, in which opinion they were unfortunately confirmed by one of the doctoi-'s party (Joe Lewis). As far as I have been able to learn this has been the sole cause of the dreadful butchery. In order to satisfy any doubt as to their suspicion that the doctor was poisoning them, it is reported that they requested the doctor to administer medicine to three of their friends, two of whom were really sick, but the third only feigning illness. AU of these were corpses the next morning." GOV. DOUGLAS' ACCOUNT. The leaders in the massacre were Telo Kaikt, his son, Tarn Sucky, Esticus and Tamahos. The Walla WaUa Indians were not implicated. Governor Douglas wrote thus to Governor Aber- nethy : " The Cayuses are the most treacherous and intractable of aU Indian tribes in this country, and had on many former occasions alarmed the inmates of the mission by their tumultuous proceedings and ferocious threats ; but, unfortunately, these evi- dences of a brutal disposition were disregarded by their admirable pastor, and served to arm him with a firmer resolution to do them good. He hoped that time and instruction would produce a change of mind, a better state of feeling towards the mission, and he might have lived to see his hopes realized had not the measles and dysentery, following in the train of immigrants from the United States, made frightful ravages this year in the upper country, many Indians having been carried off through the vio- lence of the disease, and others through their own imprudence. The Cayuse Indians of Waiilatpu, being sufferers in this general calamity, were incensed against Dr. Whitman for not exercising his supposed supernatural power in saving their lives. They 200 Indian Massacre. carried this absurdity beyond that point of folly. Their super- stitious minds became possessed with the horrible suspicion that he was giving poison to the sick instead of wholesome medicine, with a view of working the destruction of the tribe, their former cruelty probably adding strength to this suspicion. Still some of the more reflecting had confidence in Dr. Whitman's integrity, and it was agreed to test the effect of the medicines he had furn- ished on three of their people, one of whom was said to be in perfect health. They all, unfortunately, died. From that moment it was resolved to destroy the mission. It was immedi- ately after bui*}dng the remains of these three persons that they repaired to the mission and murdered every man found there. This happened at 2 o'clock in the afternoon. The Indians arrived at the mission one after another, with their arms hid under their blankets. The doctor was at school with the children. The others were cutting up an ox they had just killed. When the Indians saw they were numerous enough to effect their object, they fell upon the poor victims, some with guns and others with hatchets, and their blood was soon streaming on all sides. Some of the Indians turned their attention towards the doctor. He received a pistol shot in the breast from one, and a blow on the head with a hatchet from another. He had still strength enough remaining to reach a sofa, where he threw himself down and expired. Mrs. Whitman was dragged from the garret and mercilessly butchered at the door. Mr. Rodgers was shot after his life had been granted to hiTTi ; the women and children were also going to be murdered when a voice was raised to ask for mercy in favor of those whom they thought innocent, and their lives were spared. It is reported that a kind of deposition made by a Mr. Rodgers increased the fury of this savage mob. Mr. Rodgers was seized, was made to sit down, and then told that his life would be spared if he made a full discovery of Dr. Whitman's supposed treachery. That person then told the Indians that the doctor intended to poison them , that one night when Mr, Spalding was at Waiilatpu he heard them say that the Indians ought to be poisoned so that the Americans might take possession of their lands. That the doctor wished to poison all the Indians at once, but that Mr. Spalding advised him to do it gradually. Mr. Rodgers, after this deposi- tion, was spared, but an Indian who was not present, having seen him, fired at and killed him. An American made a similar de- position, adding that Mrs. Whitman was an accomplice, and de- Mission Lipe among the Indians. 201 served death as well as her husband. It appears that he con- cluded by saying that he would take the side of the Indians, and detested Americans. An Indian then put a pistol in his hand, and said to him, '4f you tell the truth, you must prove it by shooting that young American," and this wretched apostate from his country fired upon the young man shown to him, and laid him dead at his feet. It was on the evidence of that American that Mrs. Whitman was murdered, or she might have shared in the mercy extended to the other females and children." " Such are the details as far as known of that disastrous event, and the causes which led to it. Mr. Rodgers' reported deposition, if correct, is unworthy of belief, having been drawn from him by the fear of instant death. The other American, who shed the blood of his own friend, must be a villain of the darkest dye, and ought to suffer for his aggravated crime." A LITTLE CRITTCISM. In McBean's letter to Vancouver he gives the Indian version of their case, and alludes to Joe Lewis as '' one of the doctor's party." The letter of Douglas calls this infamous Joe Lewis re- peatedly " an American." The fact was that Joe Lewis was a Canadian half-breed, accidentally at the mission. He came there ill and was nursed in hospital. When he recovered he was furn- ished work. All the tenor of Mr. Douglas' letter is unfair, be- cause it gives the Indian version throughout. The Cayuses were too sharp to believe Joe Lewis' story that he was in the same room with Mr. Spalding and Dr. and Mrs. Whitman when they planned to poison the Indians. They knew better than to credit such a story. It is not probable that any well Indian would go up with two sick ones to receive medicine from Dr. Whitman and then tp-ke the medicine, as is related by both McBean and Douglas. That story is too thin for credence. The story of Mr. Rodger's deposition and treachery to the Whitmans is not even plausible. All these matters the Hudson Bay Company officials rei:)eat so confidently, could be easily manufactured as evidence by the Cayuses. Joe Lewis undoubtedly betrayed the mission, and told infamous lies to the Cayuses that led them to the massacre. Their own bad natures and the unhappy intrigue and rivalry of another religious party were the chief causes of the massacre. GOV. OGDEN TO THE RESCUE. On the 7th of December, Peter Skeen Ogden, associate chief 202 Indian Massacre. factor of the Hudson Bay Company, with a party of sixteen men, left Vancouver for Walla Walla, to rescue and ransom the fifty- one captives held by the Cayuses. It required until the 23d to collect a council of the Cayuses, and then several days were spent in talk and arranging preliminaries. They were anxious to avoid war, and afraid the Americans would come in force from Western Oregon to punish them, and that fear was soon realized. Mr. Ogden would make them no promises of peace, but did arrange for the ransom of their prisoners on December 31. He wrote as follows : " I have endured many an anxious hour, and for the last two nights have not closed my eyes, but thanks to the Almighty I have succeeded. During the captivity of the prisoners they have suffered every indignity, but fortunately were well provided with food. I have been able to effect my object without compromising myself or others. It now remains with the Amer- ican Government to take what measure it deems most beneficial to restore tranquility. This, I apprehend, cannot be finally effected without blood flowing freely. So as not to compromise either party, I have made a heavy sacrifice of goods, but these, indeed, are of trifling value compared to the unfortunate beings I have rescued from the hands of these murderous wretches, and I am truly happy." It is agreeable to find one ofl&cer of that great company who could wi'ite in plain Anglo-Saxon, and make no half way excuses for Cayuse savagery. The active interposition of the Hudson's Bay Company alone could have effected the noble object Governor Ogden so generously accomplished, and we must give Mr. Douglas full credit for his interest in the work ; even though we criticise the seeming unfairness of his relation of the massacre and at- tendant circumstances. The Nez-Perces remained peaceful, but their mission, as also that of Spokane, was broken up and never resumed their effi- ciency. All the property at Waiilatpu was destroyed, and the burning of Dr. Whitman's papers caused a loss to history that cannot be replaced. The faithful and earnest labor of many years was thus worse than lost. The tragic story that attaches to the Walla Walla river, will remain one of the many legends of the past, and it is hardly possible any other can ever equal it, as the history of the Cayuses is almost closed. S. A. Clarke. Mission Life among the Indians. 203 Indians of Puget Sound, in 1852. ''an inspired speculator. So pleased was Captain Sayward with the natural beauties of the country — the virginal beauties, yet unrifled by commerce— that he hired a canoe, with an Indian and his squaw as the propelling power, and set out down the Sound to Port Ludlow, a distance of one hundred miles from Olympia. He was in search of a mill site. In all these many miles there was not a white man to be seen. Only the Indian had ' A lodge in this vast wilderness. This boundless contiguity of shade.' One hundred and more miles of an unbroken forest of magni- ficent timber, running back to the Olympian range some fifty or sixty miles ! Although used to the pine forests of the Penobscot in Maine and the St. John in New Brunswick, the sight of so much unclaimed ligneous wealth affected our speculator's brain a trifle, and he could scarcely contain himseK. ' My God ! what a country,' he exclaimed, rising in the canoe at the same time, to the imminent danger of an upset. 'I'd like to turn all the people of the State of Maine in here, each man carrying a narrow axe.' With arms extended and eyes dilated, Sayward gave the Indians the impression that they had a crazy man for a passenger, and ex- changing a few words they rested on their paddles. But he soon got over his ecstasy and bade them go to work again. Simple savages ! Accustomed to look from Nature up to Nature's God, they did not know they were introducing to these magnificent scenes the pioneer of a race that only looked from Nature to a market, the indans on the sound. The site was chosen at Port Ludlow and the mill erected in March, 1853, the machinery for which was made by the brothers James and Peter Donahue, then in the foundry business in San Francisco. The Captain remained at the Sound tiU 1858. There were about 300 Chimicum and Clallam Indians on the site Sayward selected, but they gave no trouble. They moved away quietly when requested, especially as they were promised all the lumber they needed to build more substantial huts than those to which they had been accustomed. The testimony of Captain Sayward is interesting as to the habits and disposition of the Sound Indians 204 Indian Massacre. at this early period, before the Whites came in such numbers as to impinge upon their freedom and narrow hunting grounds, causing the famous war of 1855—56, when the redskins of "Wash- ington Territory held a grand powwow to consider the advisability of driving all the white invaders into the sea. At that time Gen- eral I. I. Stevens — afterwards killed at Ball's Bluff with Colonel Baker — was Governor of the Territory, and McCleUan was on his staff. General (then Lieutenant) Grant was in the field fighting the Indians, and so was Lieutenant Scott, son of Dr. Scott, long pastor of Calvary Church, in this city. But this is a digression. Captain Sayward had no trouble with the Indians. . He employed a gi'eat many in and about the mill, and always found them in- dustrious and trustworthy. They were singularly tenacious in fulfilling a trust. Often, when the supply of whiskey ran short — for it is next to impossible that a saw-mill can be run without the " Kentucky brew " — he would send a couple of his Indians with money to Olympia, by canoe, to get a barrel. This is about as severe a test as can be given an Indian. But they brought the whiskey home and delivered it intact. It is true, that if the Cap- tain's back was turned, after the trust was fulfilled, they would not hesitate to steal the liquor. They had but dim ideas of the law of meum and tuum. But they never broke their faith, no matter how strong the temptation, when intrusted with a mission. In the subsequent troubles, when the life of every white man on the Sound was in danger. Captain Sayward found the benefit of his kindness and confidence in the Indians during his early intercourse with them. The hostiles never menaced him, and his property re- mained undisturbed. In his opinion, so far as concerns the In- dians who came under his immediate observation in his experiences on the north-west coast, the poet spoke as much truth as poetry, when he said : I love the Indian ; ere the white man came And taught him vice and infamy and shame, His soul was noble. In the sun he saw His God, and worshipped him with trembling awe. RELIGIOUS PECULIARITIES. And this poetic expression leads naturally to the fact that the Sound Indians used to be very religious, in their way ; religion being defined as the observance of certain forms, whether Christian or pagan. Certainly, the Chimicums and ClaUams, simple sons of Mission Life among the Indians. 205 the forest and the sea, had their time pretty well divided between providing for their physical wants and worshipping deities, seen and unseen. The moon in its twelve changes represented to the Indian twelve gods, and, when it was fuU-orbed, a grand festival was held in honor of the deity of that particular month. The annual festival was in honor of the sun, that luminary being dignified by the name, in the Chinook jargon, ' Hyas tyee Tema- nowos,' or the god of all, the god of gods. At these festivals, monthly as weU as annual, all the Indians on the Sound gathered; there were thousands in 1852, where there are hundreds now. Each, squaws as well as bucks, was provided with a piece of split log called in the Eastern prairie States ' puncheon.' It was un- dressed and full of splinters. Seated in a circle, the size of which depended on the number of worshippers present, they waited in silence for the rising of Luna — to these savages a god, to the pagans of old a goddess. As soon as the silver disk showed above the horizon, the chief, or leader of the ceremonies, led off with a short, weird chant, which was taken up by the whole assemblage, until, from the exact time kept by beating on the 'puncheons,' a kind of rhythm resulted — not exactly as harmonious as that de- scribed by Milton, when he said of the heavenly host that they ' Sang hallelujahs as the sound of seas,' but a rude chorus, rising with each repetition till the eighth was reached, and then da cajw. Some of the notes were drawn out like the wail of a banshee, and others dropped on the ear like the stac- cato of musketry fire. It is impossible to describe the effect pro- duced by this chant as it rang through the solemn aisles of the stately forest, while the lapping waves (their circle was always formed on the seashore) at the feet of the dusky singers murmur- ed a subdued accompaniment. This kind of worship was a test of endurance. All night long it was sustained, all the next day, the next night and the day following, sometimes — no food passing the Indians' lips in the meantime — until one or more of the number were used up. THE NEW" BIRTH. It was at the grand annual festival of the Sun, held at Clal- lam Bay, that this interesting ceremony was witnessed. There were thousands of Indians present, and the chanting had lasted for two days, when one of the number succumbed to sheer ex- haustion, falling supine and apparently lifeless. Then the chant 206 Indian Massacee. ceased and he was taken to the sweat-house. After undergoing a hot air bath for some fifteen minutes, he was rolled in a blanket, and put on a shelf to dry. He remained in this state for hours, sometimes days — in fact it was doubtful if he could re\dve. From tests made, the cataleptic redskin was quite insensible to pain. One of the Indians, who spoke a little English, was asked: " Does the man ever die ? " " Sometimes," he replied ; " sometimes the spirit lose his way and cannot come back. Then Indian die." The present subject, when he did recover consciousness, was led forth by his friends to a position in the circle near the chief. And now another interesting part of the ceremonies began. The restored Indian looked about him for a while in a dazed sort of way, and presently spoke, at first in a low tone, raising his voice by degrees. There was a reverential hush throughout the circle, and every head was bent, eager to catch the words of the speaker. He was considered the favorite of the god of the month, and the communication he had to make was given him while he lay unconscious. Often his speech lasted an hour, and it was generally an exhortation or tribal lesson to his fellows on their simple duties, and whether the god was pleased or displeased with their conduct. As soon as he had ceased he commenced to part with his worldly possessions. To one he gave his canoe, to another his Hudson Bay Company gun or his bow and arrows, to another his wickiup, to a fourth his cooking utensils, his horses, etc. At last, stripped of all his goods, he stood with only the old blanket covering him ; then the principal chief advanced, and, withdraw- ing the fastening at the throat, let this drop about the heels of the messenger from the unseen, and he stood before his tribe naked as when he first came into the world. This was the new birth. He was considered as born again by the ordeal through which he had passed, and ready to commence life once more. After a pause the medicine man, taking a brand new blanket, approached the '' infant adult " and covered his nakedness, manip- idating his head with every sign of affection, and crooning a song of rejoicing at the same time. A mighty shout went up from the tribe as they also welcomed the new chief — the favorite of their god. Such was the scene to be witnessed at Port Ludlow, or Port Gamble, Olympia, or some other selected spot on the Sound, before the white man invaded the '' forests primeval." It is to be pre- sumed the '' noble red men" are too busy nowadays attending to Mission Life aiviong the Indians. 207 the slabs and scantling of the saw-mills ; and his chants to the moon, if he indulge in any, are drowned by the scurr of a thousand circulars, converting his forests into money for the pale-face. There is not much romance or sentiment, Indian or other, about a saw-miU. THE SQUAWS' LECTURE. There was another curious practice among the Indians on the Sound in the early days. It was the lecture or sermon that, at stated periods, was delivered exclusively to the Indian women. An important member of the tribe, the big chief or the medicine man, would select a promontory or island remote from the main- land, perhaps in the vicinity of Port Ludlow, and paddle himseK there, solitary and alone, on a fine day. Soon all the squaws would be seen following him, paddling vigorously toward the common point. No bucks were among them j they all remained on the mainland. The preacher, instructor, exhorter, or whatever he was, often stood in the water up to his knees for a full hour or more while he delivered his discourse ; but the Indian maidens aid squaws gathered as close around him as their canoes would permit, so as to catch every word that feU from his lips. Savona- rola was never more in earnest than this dusky preacher ; his face and action showed he realized the importance of his k. wor He was supposed to be instructing the women as to their proper duties in their savage life ; but whatever he said, they were eager to hear it all. There was no noise save the occasional chafing of one canoe against another as they moved with the slight swell of the water. It is an exciting spectacle to see the dusky women, when the service was over, start in an emulative race for the mainland, their dark sinewy arms plying the flashing paddle as the light canoe cut swiftly the placid waters of the Sound, until with laughing banter the prows touched the shore and they re- joined the bucks, who were idly awaiting them. Too grateful for the blessing lent Of simple tastes and mind content." Geo. E. Barnes. Indians of Puget Sound and Columbia River, in 1856. General Wool sent Keyes' company over to Steilacoom during the following week, where he found the inhabitants in a wild state 208 Indl\n Mass\cke. of alarm, as many families had been murdered by the Indians. On the fourth of December, Lieutenant Slaughter was killed by the Klickitat Indians, headed by the famous chief Kanaskat. DEATH OF KANASKAT. On the morning of the 25tli of February, 1856, at Lemon's prairie, about nine miles above Tacoma, on the Puyallup, Ser- geant Newton posted a private named Kehl and two others as a picket guard of Keyes' company. The cooks had already lighted the fires, and the watchful soldier saw a gleam of light reflected from a rifle barrel about a hundred yards up the trail beyond the bend. Then he saw five Indians in single file creeping stealthily down the hill, the one in front waving his hand backward to caution his followers. Kehl waited till the leader was nearly abreast of him, and then fired, when the great chief Kanaskat fell, shot through the spine, which paralized his legs, but his voice and arms were not affected. '' At the report of Kehl's shot," writes Greneral Keyes, " I ran out to the bridge, where I heard Sergeant Newton crying out, ' We've got an Indian.' " It took two soldiers to hold him as he tried to draw a knife, and as they dragged him across the bridge he continued to call out in a language I did not understand. Some one came who recognized the rounded Indian, and exclaimed, '' Kanaskat." " Nawitka ! " said he with tremendous energy, his voice rising to a scream — '' Kanaskat - Tyee — mameloose nika mika mameloose Bostons." He added, " My heart is wicked to the Whites, and always will be, so you had better kill me." Then he began to call out in his native tongue which none of us could understand. He appeared to be yelling for his comrades, and two shots were fired from the pickets on the hill when Corporal O'Shaughnessy, who was stand- ing by, placed his rifle close to the chief's temple and blew a hole through his head, scattering the brains about. Regarding the carcass of the dead chief as that of an unclean animal which men hunt for the love of havoc, we left it in the field unburied, and went on our way to fight his people. The death of their most warlike chief and the decisive victory we achieved, dismayed the redskins, and thereafter their energies were exerted to avoid battles with the regulars, though they afterwards fought mth the volunteers. We hunted them almost night and day, over hill and dale, and through the densest thickets. It rained more than half the time, and the influence of Mount Rainier and its vast covering Mission Life among the Indians. 209 of eternal snow upon the temperature made the nights excessively cold. Such was our liability to surprise that we were obliged to be ready to fight at all times. The hardships of that campaign, in which the pluck of Kautz, Mendell, Sukely, and others was tested, caused us later to regard the Wilderness battles as recreation. In the Indian war of 1856 Lieutenant Sheridan served under Col. George "Wright of the Ninth Infantry, whom he describes as an able officer. In this campaign he captured thirteen Cascade Indians, nine of whom were afterwards hanged for their participa- tion in the massacre at the ' blockhouse.' In illustration of the insane hatred of the Indians which per- vaded the people of Oregon at this time, Sheridan mentions the hanging in cold blood of the family of a friendly Chinook chief, Spencer, the interpreter of Col. Wright. His wife, two young boys, three girls and a baby were hanged by some white bar- barians. The babe was strangled by means of a red silk hand- kerchief taken from the neck of its mother. These poor creatures were killed in the spirit of aimless revenge by citizens who knew that their victims were the family of a notoriously friendly and peaceable chief, who had nothing to do with the ' Block House Massacre.' Spencers family had walked into the settlement under the protection of a friendly alliance, and Sheridan declares that this wholesale murder of innocent and helpless victims was the most dastardly and revolting crime he ever knew to be committed by Whites. Preserving the Indian in California. A gentleman explains tlie real cause of the recent Indian troubles at Mono Lake, California, 1889. ' ' A few days since a San Francisco dispatch stated that Indians in Mono county, California, had killed a settler and three Italians, and that trouble "was feared, and Governor Waterman had been asked to send troops there. A gentleman wiio has resided for several years in Mono county, in the Bodie section, and in the vicinity of Mono lake, has lately arrived here and gives an account of the origin of the trouble Avith the Indians, which goes to substantiate the saying of some of the old settlers of this state that every outbreak of the Indians has been brought on by outrages they have suffered at the hands of the Whites. The Mono lake region is a desolate, steidle section, much resembling the country around the Dead Sea. The waters of the lake are thoroughly impregnated with borax, salt and magnesia, and the only animal life found 14 210 Indian Massacre. iu it is a sort of a Avorm, about one-f oiii*tli of au iuch iu length, resembling in appearance a shrimp. This -svorm is of an oily nature, and forms, Avhen blown on the shore by the •\vinds, by comT)ining with the alkaline water a soapy mixture, and frequently a bank of this soapsuds several feet in depth is deposited along the shore of the lake. The Piute Indians, who live in the country around Mono lake are very fond of these worms or shrimps, which they call "kitcha%de" and eat all they can get of them ; in fact "kitchavie " and pine nuts are their food staples. On the western shore of Mono lake hved a settler named Louis Sam- man. He had resided there for over twenty years, raising cattle on the stunted pastiu-age around the lake, leading a lonely life. Occasionally he would kill a Piute and cast the body into the alkaHne w-aters of the lake, Avhere it would soon petrify. This fact was well known to the "Whites residing in that section, and the gentleman who gives this information says he has seen four of these bodies calmly reposing at the bottom of the lake. Samman's avowed intention was to use the bodies, as soon as they became sufficiently hardened, for hitching posts and door steps. The Indians, however, were ignorant of Samman's eccentricity, or at least had only heard unconfirmed stories of it. A few days before the kilhng above mentioned, a party of Piutes were fishing for " kitchaNde, " scooping them off the surface of the water with willow baskets. In the \dcinity of Samman's j^lace they saw the bodies of their murdered brethren lying on the gravelly bottom. Then the stories they had heard were confirmed. They became frenzied for revenge, and going to Samman's cabin took him out (he was alone) and shot him through the heart, carried the body into the cabin, laid it on the bed, and to make sure that he was dead, fired another shot through his brain. They then, went several miles to a jjlace where four Italians w^ere and killed three of them, one escaping to Bodie and alarm- ing the citizens, telling them at the same time not to go out there for a few days, as the Indians had sworn to kill any white man that came oiit. The Indians Avere very much excited, and eager to avenge the death of the petiified Piutes. A request Avas made on Governor Waterman for arms and ammunition, and he offered to send troo^js, but the offer w^as decHned. The request for arms and ammunition has since been countermanded, and things have quieted down considerably, biit still the \agilance of the jieople has not relaxed. An effort to arrest the guilty Indians will shortly be made." How ''Civilization'' was introduced to the Natives of South and Central America. The second volume on Central America just issued, is one of the most interesting of H. H. Bancroft's " History of the Pacific Natives of Central and South America. 211 States." It deals mainly with a period of which the simple recital of its eveuts reads like a romance. Mr. Bancroft has no sympathy with the Spanish method of colonization and he never neglects an opportunity to point out the greed and villainy which lies under the thin veneer of religious zeal in the Spanish- American con- querors. He also delights in laying bare the hypocrisy of the priestly chroniclers, who never fail to find a good excuse for the methods of the men who carried the cross with bloody hands among the ill-starred natives of Central and South America. He can see no redeeming qualities in Francisco Pizarro, Alvarado and the other Spanish conquerors, save their superb courage, which never faltered, even in the face of the most appalling dangers. He has none of that half -concealed fondness for these picturesque pirates which is shown by many writers. He gives the plain truth about them, stripped of all the glamor which the Church has cast over their cruelties. The single chapter devoted to Pizarro is an admirable review of the methods of one of the bravest and meanest of the great adventurers of the world. Of infamous origin and brutal instincts, his low cunning and unsurpassed courage placed him at the head of the lawless crew in Panama and made him surpass in Peru the crimes with which Cortez marked his bloody march through Mexico. Nothing in history is more cruel than the massacre of the natives and the captui*e of the Inca, which delivered into the hands of these freebooters the rich em- pire of Peru. In a haK-hour 5000 defenseless Peruvians were butchered, without the loss of a single Spaniard. The massacre was precipitated by the action of the Inca, who, when the Priest Vicente de Valverde was urging upon him the beauties of the Catholic faith, flung the Bible to the earth and trampled upon it. The effect was similar to that which would follow a curse on the religion of Mohammed uttered in an Arabian mosque. As the author says, ''To their brutal instinct was added a spiritual drunkenness which took them out of the category of manhood and made them human fiends. We wonder how men could so believej but greater stiU is our wonder that men so believing could so be- have." This massacre was followed by the usual sequence — a forced levy on the kingdom for treasure as the ransom of the captured monarch; the accumulation of treasure, which is estimat- ed as worth $20,000,000, in one day, and finally the farcical trial and condemnation of the captive Inca when no more gold and sil- ver and precious stones could be wrung from the people. The 212 Indian Massacre. trial aud tlie death scene of the unhappy Inca are told in these few words, made more impressive by their brexdty : The accusations and the trial would both be laughable were they not so diabolical. Pizarro and Almagro acted as judges. Among the charges were attempted insurrection, usm-pation and putting to death the lawful sovereign, idolatry, waging unjust warfare, adultery, polygamy and the embezzlement of the public revenues since the Spaniards had taken possession of the country. What more cutting irony could words present of the Christian and civilized idea of humanity and the rights of man then enter- tained, than the catalogue of crimes by which this barbarian must unjustly die, every one of which the Spaniards themselves had committed in a tenfold degree since entering these dominions. The opinion of the soldiers was taken. It is unnecessary to say that the prisoner was found guilty. He was condemned to be burned alive in the plaza. At the appointed hour the royal captive, heavily chained, was led forth. It was nightfall, and the torchlights threw a dismal glare upon the scene. By the Inca's side walked the infamous Father Vicente, who never ceased pouring into the unwilling ear of his victim his hateful consolations. Upon the funeral pile, Atahualpa was informed that if he would accept baptism he might be kindly strangled instead of burned. " A cheap escape from much suffering," thought the monarch, and permitted it to be done. The name of Juan de Atahualpa was given him. The iron coUar of the garrote was then tightened, the Christians recited their credos over the new convert, and the spirit of the Inca hied away to the sun. Thus one more jewel was added to the immortal crown of Father Vicente de Valverde ! Soon after Pizarro falls in a bloody brawl, a victim to the lust for gold and power of the man whom he had made rich and powerful. He was nearly eighty years of age when he met his fate, yet so great was his vigor and courage that he kiUed five persons and wounded others before he was subdued. In the succeeding chapters are i-elated the exploits of the Spanish conquerors in the various States of Central America, and on the Isthmus of Darien. The expeditions of Alvarado, the work of the ecclesiastics in Guatemala and Chiapas, of Herrera in Hon- duras, the raids of Drake and Oxenhun on the Isthmus, the descents of the buccaneers, the outrages of Morgan at Darien, and the exploits of other cut-throats, who dignified rapine and murder Natives of Central and South America. 213 by the title of exploration — these furnish the materials for a story as thrilling as can be found in the pages of romance. The history is brought down to the close of the eighteenth century and shows, with its wealth of detail, the stagnation which has always marked the colonies of Spain. Those of the natives who objected to the cruel domination of the Spaniards were killed. In Guatemala alone Las Casas estimated the number of those who were massa- cred or driven to death by this brutal treatment at between four and five millions. The aim of the invaders was to wring the uttermost farthing from the natives. Some of them glossed this mercenary motive under religious zeal, but this did not alter its character. Even a man of high character like Las Casas, whose soul revolted at the cruelties perpetrated in the name of religion, was responsible for the worst curse that ever befell this continent — African slavery. There are absolutely no redeeming features in the history, except the dauntless courage and iron endurance of the men who ravished and depopulated a fair territory in the holy name of the Church. " Twelve years after the discovery of Hispaniola, as Columbus himself wi'ites, six-sevenths of the natives were dead through ill- treatment." ' ' Born by the law that compels men to be, Born to conditions they could not foresee, Fashioned and shaj)ed by no "will of their own. And helplessly into life's history thrown." >*!**^\ BRA/? ' OF THK UNIVERS CHAPTER XIV. Home building narrative resumed. — Improve homestead claim as I had the other. — The market, etc. — My herds of cattle, horses, hogs, etc. — Great prosijerity. — Eailroads built from tide water ; freights, etc. — Immigra- tion. — Further enlargement of my home and business by leasing, fenc- ing and breaking a quarter section of school land. — Copy of lease and receijjt for second years payment on the same. — The law and custom as to it. — Confirmed by Congress. — Serve as county road viewer and on first grand jury of Columbia County, and learn some- thing. — Eoad supervisor of a twenty-mile district. — A re\dew, and what I have learned about farming, etc. — The best economy while "serpents are at the udder." FALL of 1877. — Having built an addition to our house, a cellar and a stable ; fenced a garden and potato field, and a pasture on homestead claim ; plowed most of the arable land on the same ; sowed it in fall wheat, and fenced it, and more, with a worm fence ; having a 120 acre crop under way or assured ; with plenty of grain, hay and straw for feed and to sell at good prices — barley and oats being worth one and one quarter cents a pound, and wheat 50 cts. a bushel at home ; eggs 20 cts., butter 30 cts. a lb., and hay $8 a ton in the stack — not that the rivers going down to the sea were made free to the people, but on account of the large immigration — and having good herds of cattle, horses and hogs ; virtually out of debt, and having means to employ help, I was ready to further enlarge my home and business. The river freights were still virtually prohibitory, but after a time railroads were built, from tide water reaching into the different sections of this upper country ; but the rivers are to this day (1889) held by the secret pirates of a Mormon govern- ment from being an opposition, independent and free line to the sea. I here give about the average freights to 1889, from the Press. — ' ' They now [1884] charge on up freight from twenty to forty dollars per ton, according as the goods will bear it. Anybody can see that is robbei-y on a line of 300 miles." "Freights from Portland [tide water] to Dayton are now [1884] twenty-seven to forty dollars j^er ton. From Dayton to this jioiut [seat of -Garfield county] twenty dollars more per ton is added. These rates bleed (214) Eanch Life in the West. 215 our people to death. None but tlie best country in tlie world could stand -'t. " 1884. — "The depression in the price of wheat still continues, and we hear of some sold as low as twenty-six cents Y>er bushel. We see the Portland market price is ^1.05, just think, seventy-five cents per bushel for trans- portation and handling from our county (Garfield) to Portland, river route almost all the way. It is shameful." "This county alone has about 2,000,000 bushels of grain to exijort." [And yet j^eople — who o>n/Jd to be slaves, and iliey are, — kept voting the Mormons into oflfice, and here is the result.] 1889. — "The Legislature cannot weU permit this bill [to open the river] to die of neglect, [but as usual the masons killed it.] The one great grievance of all Eastern Oregon [and Washington] is, and has for years been, the tax laid ujDon its resources by [masonic] corporations, that have held the key to the transiiortation business of that section through owning and operating the only portage facilities between the jDoints named in the biU. True, the general government undertook measures for a rehef of this grievance a number of years ago, but as one apjjropriation after another has been swallowed up [by the gang] in the undertaking, and the most formidable part of the vrork is yet to be done, the peojile have naturally grown tired and long for some measure that furnishes relief for themselves, as well as for their remote posterity. " But they still voted the brethren into office, who thus stran- gled the country's prosperity. Masomy is a wide spreading tree ; its roots are like that of a cancer; while among its boughs numerous traitorous insects are harbored and concealed, and under its protecting foliage the dead- ly night shade of conspiracy is reared and brought to maturity. And the people would unite to hang outsiders for stealing but a few head of stock ! To enlarge my home and business, I accordingly commenced to break up the arable land on the quarter section of school land adjoining my place above, having improved it somewhat before the laud was survej'ed, as before noted. As it was destitute of water and the ultimate cost when it should be sold so uncertain, all land hunters rejected it. So I was in no hurry about leasing it. With my experience in home- building I could see that if some one would take the land and improve it, I could then buy him out for less cost than to improve it myself. But nobody would have it. So the following Febru- ary, when other business called me to the far away county seat, 216 Kanch Life in the West. I went and leased it, as an enlargement to my home. And here following is a copy of the lease, also of receipt for the second year's payment on the same. Vlitiii AS, ilio Ooverniiicnl of the llniiw) Sum hts nw-rrcd cerMin bnils in Wisliir>.ton Terrilory fm.Scbool ind cd ucmioii.l puriwwej, ind. Whebeas. bj »n «n of the LegiilMitt Aiseiubly of Wishmgton Territory, psssed Novem- ber iJJ. 1*0, the County Comtaissionere of the seTeril Counliea in aaid Territory, nrc duly luthoriied and empow- ered to LEAS/! ur RtsT Mid lind«, or .ny portion thereof, for • term of ye»rs Dot exceeding »il. or until euch liudt ih»ll be wid I ted thi. the yZA. d»y of .^-^>=-<^^-'^V2-*^ of Columblft County. Washington Territory, party ofjbe said cotLDty and Territory of tlie second part. Sow. IlKHEEnut, Tins LvDlo-Tlnr., .Made and e A- 0- l»:^lKi'ejMthe ll«rd ol- CountT/oninm^ 6r« par., snd .M^F'TH, Thftt the said party of the 6rit part, purvaniu to said IftW, Tiu frvited, dciDJacd, aiid to ftrm let. Kod )fj ih^ prcscjits does pripr, demise, and w> fiiim let, with the aaid party of the secood p»n, all the ccrtaio lot piece .or parcel f the United Stjtcs Oovofpmcnt. wilh the nppurt^-n«iice»^fur the term of.i^ jeat^ fn.oi the ...^At. day of ..^?L«-^«^<-^<^.^?-^rA,'B", iSJ'^r unlifsaid rrsct ^ land shiill be sold by ttunpeleiit authority. 'jt lb? »nna«l rent or sum of ,.. K^4r,£,*Cr*idcd alw.-iys. nevertheless, thai if the rent above reserved or any portion ihercof, ^hall be In arrcirs of ilnp&id on any day of payment when the came ought to be paid as aforesaid ; or if default be made in any ..I the covcimili. herein ^Cwntaincd, on the parr or behalf of sjid party jf the second part, his executors, adntiuistralora or a.^al;.'^B. M be paid, kepi land performed, then it shall be lawful for the said Ctmnty L'ominiAshitlcra of said County to rc-eiiieT the aaid premises, '.tri'tliMut any legal process or warrant other than 'tf herein contained, and to remove, or cause to be rviiioved, all penons therrfroui. / nts pul ATnd thr> jaid party of the second part.'docS'hcre.by covenant, promise aud spree In pay the said rent at the time and tn^tic manner lierciiibefore specified, and not f> let or underlet the whole or aoy pjrt of said premises without the writ- .ICO cinscnl of the Board of County Commissioners, and shall and will, at his own proper cost and charges, pay all such tajca and assessments whatever, as shall or may. during tho said term hereby jjrsiiled, be charged, assc<,sed or imposed «pon the said premises i rnd not to cut or destroy any limber growing upon said laiidM. during said term. rAc Jomc htmi) hrrrl^ rrt.r-vcJ It) llie m.Vf pari,, of iKe fril pan ; and agreeing also that all the fencing and other imprnvtmi »0«n said land, during said term, shall attach to and become a part of the realty at ihc expiration of sjid term. And that on the last day of the said term, or other sooner dctenuinslion of tho Male hcieby graotod. the said party •f the second part, his executors, administrators and tssiens. shall and will peaceably and quietly, leave, surrender and Jicij up unto the aaid party of the 6rst part, all and .ingular tlic said promisea together with tho appurtenances. And Ihc said party of the first part does hereby covenant, promise and agree, that the ..id party of the «;rond pan, faying the said rent, and performing the coTonanls aforesaid, shsll and may peacefbly and quicly have, hold and enjoy Iht Mid premises for the term aforesaid. , In WiT.tESS WlltRlOf, the ssid parties have hereunto Kt their hands and seals; the Jay and year first above written SignecT scaled and delivered In presei,^,; f/?rriffc-t-* School Land Lease. (Beducetl to one half of the oiiginal s'.ze.) 2] 8 Ranch Life in the "West. " The organic act of Congress declares that 'all laws passed by the legis- lative Assembly and Governor of ' Washington territory, shall be submitted to Congress, and, if disapi^roved, shall be null and of no effect." "The act of 18G7, maldng the bi-annual sessions of the legislature be- gin two mouths earher in the odd year, waa not disapproved by Congress, but by vii-tue of the ride, ' silence gives assent,' was approved." And the legislature lienceforth acted accordingly — as though the act had been formally approved. As did the courts and people as to the other acts of the legislature. It ivas and is the universal custom/or laics, to be in/orce until congress, or the courts, or the legislature abrogates them. And so it was with this school-land act. It was forthwith made available and largely availed of. And on its being questioned, as all laws are for a price, the U. S. Attorney General wrote as follows, to the terri- torial Delegate in Congress. j Depaktment of Justice. I Washington, June 7th, 1880. Sm: It seems to me ujjon a careful reading of the law referred to, that the commissioners themselves, as representing the county, are invested with power to protect the interests of the county in sections 16 and 36, which were resei-ved by Congress for the benefit of the common schools therein. I infer this from the authority given them, to locate other lands in case sections 16 and 36 are occupied by actual settlers prior to the sul•^^ey there- of. Under this authority to locate, they may take possession, and so of sections 16 and 36, if not occupied by actual settlers prior to the sui-vey thereof. The statute gives to the temtory the title and the right of possession, and the proper rejjresentatives of the territory who for this jjurijose are, I laresume, the county commissioners, may institute proceedings to defend that possession, or to recover it as against trespassers. Very resjjectf ully. Your obedient servant, Chas. Devens, Attorney General." From the Press. — "WAiiLA WaliiA, Oct. 14th, 1882. For the infoima- tion of "Inquu'er" it is stated that many years ago the legislature of Wash- ington territory, by solemn enactment, authoiized the commissioners of the different counties to lease school lands, the rents to be added to the school fund of the county wherein the lands were situated. Does "Inquirer" wish to decrease the school fund by abohshing the practice ? If so he must either appeal to the legislature to rei^eal the law, or induce a court of competent jurisdiction to declare the act as unauthorized." Ranch Life in the West. 219 1885. — "The commissioners of King county, ["Western Washington] are doing considerable business in the way of leasing school lands. These lands are leased in tracts of IGO acres, or less, at ten dollars a year for each tract, the leasea running for six years. [Lurking brethren could, and did lease, irJ/ole sections and held them]. It is impossible to sell these lands before the Territory becomes a State. They, however, are in great request, and the leases are eagerly sought, it being understood that when the lands are sold, the occupants shall have the first right to purchase at the ap- praised price. The county is entitled to 75,000 acres, and if all leased even at the low price of ten doUars a year, a revenue would thereby be secured of ^5000 or more. With no effort made in the jsast, §450 a year is now obtained in this way. The school lands of King county will be worth millions of dollars in time to come." In 1888 there were 5000 sucli leases as mine held, and Congress formally approved the same as follows : — ''Washington Territory School Lands. The following is an act of Congress " for the relief of certain settlers upon the school lands of Washington territory: " Whekeas, Sections 16 and 36 of each townshii? of land in Washington territory was reserved unto that temtory for school pur^joses ; and Wheeeas, On December 2, 1869, the legislative assembly of that territory, by an act duly passed, authorized the county commissioners of the several counties in that territory to lease said lands for a term of years not exceeding six years, the money received therefore being placed in the school fund ; and Whekeas, The lands so leased are greatly enhanced in value by the cultivation thereof, and the lessees thereof have made valuable improve- ments thereon and incurred large expense in reducing such land to a state of cultivation, and will incur much loss if they are caused to abandon their said improvements and cultivations ; and Whereas, The vaKdity of the said leases is questioned ; therefore, Be it enacted, etc. , That the action of the county commissioners of the several counties of Washington territoiy under the authority siijjposed to reside in the act of the legislative assembly of said territory of December 2, 1869, entitled, ' ' an act to provide for the leasing of school land in Wash- ington territory , " when had in conformity to said act, be, and the same hereby is, confirmed, and that said act be, and the same is hereby, vali- dated and confirmed. Approved, August 6, 1888." I spent part of the following months of February and IVTarch, 1878, in viewing out and locating county roads in the Asotin country, being appointed with two others by the board of county commissioners to act in that capacity. 220 Ranch Life in the West. Then I hired two men to make rails at twenty dollars per thousand, one to help farm and break prairie on the school laud claim at thirty dollars a month, and one to attend to the cows, hogs, chickens, and assist about the house. Was road supervisor of this district, then over 20x20 miles in extent. That spring we got the through road to Dayton and Lewiston opened all the way for the first. In June I served on the grand jury of the first court session ever held in Columbia county; wherein I experienced that it is an easy matter to indict an outsider, while worse criminals (being in a charitable order) are secure against out- raged justice. Then, until harvest, I was engaged mostly in hauling over 10,000 rails from the mountains and fencing the school land I had leased and partly broke out, Some of the rails I bought at forty dollars per thousand, delivered on the ground. "Book" or Greeley farming is good in its place, but would not pay here ; and he who was educated in such a school and was bigoted, or could not bend to adverse circumstances or ex- ceptions to accepted general rules could do a thing in but one way, would break up very quick or fail in making anything to break. There are circumstances in which it is the best econ- omy for the settler to raise wheat, horses, hogs and calves together in the same field (though frequently done when not the best economy) and to raise potatoes by dropping the seed as he plows the ground, run over it with a harrow, let them go until fall, and then plow them up or turn the hogs in to harvest them. Sometimes good cultivation of a crop pays best, and then again no culture at all is the best economy. I can raise more truck with a team and plow than alone with a hoe. Horse flesh is cheaper than that of a man — if he be a man — and is more pleasant to wear off. I can ride over more ground than I can walk over. A farmer and his family should not be harder worked or fed than his cattle, and tliey should have leisure and plenty that is good, too. I have read expert testi- mony in agricultural papers and books until — like reading law books — I did not know anything for certain. I have experi- mented and closely observed in every branch and phase of work I ever pursued. Have plowed bodies of land up to the Banch Life in the West. 221 beam, and adjoining it have skinned the ground and skipped a foot at every furrow and turn for acres together. Have rolled grain before it was up, and when it was six to eight inches high with a heavy four-horse roller (which I had read would even kill Canadian thistles). Have rolled it in the dust ; in the mire ; and have not rolled it at all. Have sown it on foot, on horseback and out of a wagon ; in the spring, summer, fall and winter time ; and have just let it volunteer from the last crop. Have harvested it with cradle and rake; with reaper; header, and have turned stock in to do it. Have threshed with machine ; tramped it out with a bunch of horses, and have pounded it out with a club. And in potatoes and other truck have experimented as widely, and in their different varieties, and in each and every case have been both ridiculed and flattered by others. Have broke horses under the saddle; to the wagon, plow, harrow, and have more frequently just went to work with them without any breaking ; and have fed them on patent medicine, wheat, — until I foundered four at a time, until they learned better and could safely eat it from a pile on the ground, and have let them get their living on the range. Have killed hogs, planted gardens, and layed worm fence in all stages of the moon — in sunshine, moonshine, and in the shade. Have put salt and pepper in cows' tails to cure the " hollow horn," and have cut off pigs tails to make them weigh 411 pounds with but little feed. Have worked sixteen hours a day, and have followed the sensible eight hour system, of eight hours for ivork, eight hours for sleep, and eight hours for re- creation and study. And I have learned that the one of any of these ways is the best for the farmer, that is the easiest. Just so long as it is fixed that he is to get but a hard living anyway, and the profits of his toil goes to enrich mystic gangs of "serpents at the udder." CHAPTER XV. Land jumping. — First serious case in tlie "France settlement." — Our graveyard started. — The "poor man's friend." — Street fight "with a jumper. — "Hun-ah for Whetstone Hollow !" — Public sentiment as to such cases. — "When the courts and press stand in with the peoj^le, and when against them. — Land sharks. — How petty thieves are shot down with impunity. — Home wreckers. — How my prosi^erity made me an object of envy and ravage. — A murderous conspiracy by gentlemen Avith great influence at coui-t to jump my pre-emj^tion and school-land portions of my Avell earned, improved and stocked home. — The lying jjretexts that were invented and used as a blind. — Jump all the water on my place. — "If you want any water, dig for it!" — Wanted to get me into the gang's court. — How I repossessed my own. — "Will fix you by helping H — jump your school land ! " — How I had befriended them. — "Damned be he who first cries hold: enough!" — Tries to drive me off with a gun. — And we get better acquainted ; get friendly, and he agrees to quit. — How I was performing my homage against a lurking foe. — His object. — Is set to resume the conflict. — "An outrage for one man to own all the land and the water, too! " — "Will settle it -ftith an ounce of lead ! " etc. — Boasts of his backing and influence. — "We will make it hot as hell for you now." — "I have taken your school land, E — , jowr pre-emption, and by G-d ! Ave Avill soon have a man on your homestead ! " — A man loans me his jjistol for defense, and then eggs on the jumper. — The lying gang. — "But truth shall conquer at the last." — Jumper's many wicked threats.— Try to have him bound over to keej) the peace. — My instructions from the jjeace officer. — "Be l>rei3ared to defend yourself and sow the ground." — He loans me seed for the purpose. — "There comes [Jumper] now Avith a gan!" — "Let us go out and see what he is going to do Avith it !" — "I don't care a damn what he does Avith it ! " — How he followed me around the field Avith a cocked carbine in both hands. — Quits and has a secret confer- ence. — "I ask you as a friend and neighbor to quit soAving Avheat and leave the field, for there is going to be troiible ! " — "Look out for him noAV !" — Belches out at the end of a stream of profanity, "turn back ! leave the field ! and don't come back nary time ! " — "I Avill fix you ! " a-ack; h