DS 51 IC-NRLF DOCUMENTS DEPT. M71 er* K net LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OP CALIFORNIA KEPORT S M DOCUMENTS DhPAxTMENT JUN 28 1355 ,wv LONDON: PRINTED BY GEORGE E. EYRE AND WILLIAM SPOTTISWt'ODE, PRINTERS TO THE QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY. FOR HER MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICE. 1856. TABLE OF CONTENTS. REPORT. Geographical Description Political History Population, Turk Greek Jewish Armenian Roman Catholic Protestant - Languages Climate Medical Notes - Commerce - 5- 15 - 15- 20 - 20- 28 - 28- 42 - 42- 43 - 44- 46 - 46- 48 - 48 - 49- 54 - 54- 57 - 57- 73 - 73- 87 APPENDIX. Table of Exports - 89 Thermometrical Register - ... 90-102 Commercial Miscellanea : A. Wages and Prices for 1854, 1855 - 103 B. Fig boxes - 104 C. History of Aidin - 104-106 D. Wine and Raki - 106-107 E. Sources for Information on Commerce, with Spe- cimens - 107-110 Specimens from Greek Newspaper - 111-119 Botanical Memoir ..... 119-123 To the Right Hon. the Secretary of State for War* MY LORD, I HAVE the honour to submit herewith to your Lordship a Report on Smyrna, prepared by me in compliance with your Lordship's request, with the assistance of the Medical Officers composing the Civil Staff of the late Hospital at that Station. I have the honour to be Your Lordship's obedient Servant, GEORGE! ROLLESTON. L Nov. 1, 1856. 087 A2 REPORT ON SMYRNA. GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. UNLIKE Constantinople, and unlike Sebastopol, General view. Smyrna has no undulations in its surface which can cover a single house, either from the sea breeze or the guns of a vessel of war. Its houses are either ranged like the seats in an amphitheatre along the sides of a semicircular line of hills, or on the slopes and levels between those hills and the water edge. It has few open places or squares, and these are mostly planted with the sombre spike-like cypress, telling of graves beneath, but also obviating the glare and heat which would otherwise in this climate render an open space, surrounded by stone or brick buildings, quite insupportable in the summer heats. The narrowness of the streets, and the downward sloping and converging roofs, whatever disadvan- tages they may cause, and however they may impede traffic, have at least the merit of preventing the re- flection of heat, and securing a constant undercurrent of cool air. The bazaars, which are simply narrow streets of shops, with an awning or tiling stretched from the roof of one side to that of the other, pre- serve an equable and agreeable temperature in the very hottest weather. The town cannot in fairness be spoken of as dirty ; it possesses numberless open as well as numberless covered gutters, but the draught of water through them is rapid, and it is rare for the senses to be offended by foul smells or by the sight of putrescent matters. The water is brought in covered aqueducts from springs at some distance from the town, and at a considerable elevation in the hills, and thus freedom from organic impurities and rapidity of flow is at once provided for. 6 Particular description. Triangle formed by the town. Malarious region. The town of Smyrna, when seen at a distance from the deck of a vessel entering the bay, appears to be built partly upon a strip of level and partly upon sloping ground lying between the sea and a hilly background, partly to be creeping up and along the sides of these very hills. On a nearer view it is seen that at the southern extremity of the town, a little to the right of a large red building, lately the British barracks, a bar of hills of moderate elevation abuts upon the water edge at a point easily distinguishable by the pre- sence of a round tower. This point may be con- sidered as the apex of a triangle, one side of which is formed by the seaboard and the other by the hill range, while the base may be well represented by the Meles which flows close under the abrupt termi- nation of the line of hill. The hill side of this triangle, Mount Pagus, runs south-east ; its length may be estimated at one mile and a half; its altitude increases gradually from the round tower imme- diately overhanging the water edge at the apex of the triangle, where it is about 223 feet, to its other extremity, where it reaches 608 feet in height. This last point is marked by the Castle, at present a ruin of considerable size, though from the com- paratively recent epoch (A.D. 1225) of its construc- tion, of no great antiquarian interest. The hill range here breaks off abruptly, presenting a pre- cipitous face towards the Meles, which flows round its base and begins here to form the base of the triangle. The world-wide fame of the Meles is not due to its depth or commercial importance ; in summer it forms but a series of pools connected by- small ankle-deep sheets of running water, and it is due to the absence of the protecting hill barrier, not to any inconvenience occasioned by the presence of the stream, that the town does not extend across further northwards. It has been found that houses built so far out in the plain, which stretches for seven miles beyond the Meles, as to lie outside the shelter, or, as one might say, beyond the shadow of Mount Pagus, are all but uninhabitable from malaria. A house was lately built upon a knoll a little to the right of the Meles, and about 100 feet above the level of the stream ; the prospect was beautiful, the drain- age easy, and in every other respect the site appeared advantageous. But it was exposed to the full draught of air which rushes down the narrow gorge beyond and beneath Mount Pagus, through which winds the Meles, and so unhealthy has it proved itself that in spite of the great expense he had incurred in build- ing a large house there the owner has been obliged to leave it uninhabited. In their proper place the sanitary conditions of the several localities will be considered, they have been alluded to here because they have so powerfully influenced the geographical distribution of the town. It is sufficient here to say that the obstacle opposed to the further outgrowth of the town in this direction has been found as im- passable though it be invisible as that created on the one side by the sea and on the other by the moun- tains. The Meles flows down to the sea through a succession of gardens and vineyards, enclosed, most of them, by high mud walls, and save when swollen in the rainy season, it percolates its way through the sand and gravel into the bay at a spot about equi- distant from its most inland extremity on the right hand, and from a point called "the Point" on the left, where the seaward boundary of Smyrna com- mences. This side of the triangle is the longest of the three, being about two miles and a half in length ; the excellent Admiralty maps, however, obviate the necessity of giving a detailed description of it ; it Seaward possesses several excellent piers and quays, and ships aspect of such draught as H.M.S. " Terrible " may often be seen within 100 yards of the land. But there are no docks, wet or dry, no yards for shipbuilding, nor even any cranes to be found along the whole length of the seaboard of this the most important emporium of the Turkish empire. Having thus given a sketch of the immediate boun- Quarters of the daries of the town, we next proceed to describe the town * town itself. The different nations have different quarters of the town allotted to them ; there is a Turk, an Armenian, a Greek, a Jewish, and an European quarter. On a bird's-eye view, these quar- 8 Turkish quarter. The " long shore " houses. ters map themselves out unmistakeably to the spec- tator. The Turkish quarter is recognizable by the uniform dinginess of its roofs, which contrast by their dull ensemble with the tall white and elegant minaret which rises out so frequently from the midst of their sombre mass side by side with the tapering cypress ; the Armenian quarter contrasts with the other quarters surrounding it by the whiteness of its walls and houses ; and the Frank quarter is unmis- takeably pointed out by the numerous flagstaffs of its several consulates. The Turkish quarter begins at the south-eastern extremity of the town, and stretches along the bank of hills forming its south-eastern boundary. The Turks have built their houses tier after tier up the hill side, until in some places they seem to be placed as it were on shelves ranged along the face of a perpendicular embankment. They seem to have tacitly recognized by their choice of locality their unfitness for maritime pursuits ; they have clung to the hill side, and relinquished the water edge to more energetic and enterprising races. Most of the Turkish houses have an open gallery on their upper story, into which their several upper rooms open. It is generally supported upon arches decorated with painting and inscriptions, and con- stitutes a characteristic feature in the Turkish do- mestic architecture. The streets in this quarter are narrow, overhung by projecting windows and con- verging roofs ; they have often an open gutter running down their centre, and a raised causeway on either side paved in the same way as the street itself. The excessive steepness of the streets in this quarter renders the absence of covered drains less injurious to the inhabitants than one might have supposed. Along the water edge the same character of build- ing prevails as is usual everywhere in similar situa- tions. As we proceed from the large barracks in a north-westerly direction, we pass by the Turkish custom-house and a battery, which has been lately rebuilt, and has twenty-four embrasures ; further on we find the ruined walls of the castle, once occupied by the Knights of Rhodes (see page 19), now in- habited by an entirely Turkish population within, 9 and having a Turkish guard-house in one of its outer angles. Passing on through a vegetable, and then through a fish, market, we come upon a second, the European, custom-house, in which imports are re- ceived ; and after three quarters of a mile of marine store shops and drinking bouses, the esplanade opens upon us, where the British and several other consular agencies are situated. Parallel to this portion of the water edge, and about 200 yards from that line, runs the Frank street ; the street containing most of Frank Street. the shops, and, as its name would imply, most of the dwelling-houses of the Europeans. This street, with the space between itself and the sea, constitutes the Frank quarter. Still following the water line we come, at the end of this handsome esplanade, upon a block of ill-built closely aggregated houses, a fragment of the Greek quarter, interposed between two portions of the European. Its streets are mere alleys ; the houses are either the dwelling houses of the " long shore " Greek boatmen, or drinking houses of an almost exclusively Greek character, as the pictures on the walls show. It contains a second fish market and vegetable market ; and part of the neighbourhood is appropriated to a colony of Maltese, chiefly boatmen. Along this part of the shore we may observe several wooden piers running out ten or twelve yards into the sea. After this we come a second time upon well-built European houses. A long handsome but ill-paved street leads us parallel to the water's edge, and for a considerable distance, the limit of which is marked by the French hospital and a Turkish guard-house, the houses on either side are of a superior character, both as regards external appearance and internal comfort. Here are the French, Austrian, Prussian, Portuguese, and Greek consulates. As the street runs further north the character of its houses deteriorates, and before it terminates, and with it the town, at " the Point," a spot marked by a windmill some way short of the embouchure of the Meles, it loses most of its pleasing features. There is at this the northern, as at the southern, extremity of the town, a Turkish 10 The Armenian quarter. The Greek quarter. barrack. It is capable of holding 115 men. Besides the windmill there is at the farthest extremity of the promontory, on the water edge, a large steam corn mill. The town reaches no further in this direction, but a creek runs up inland for about a mile and a half, and on the Smyrna side of it there is an establish- ment for the repairing of ships ; whilst opposite we see, at some distance inland, the village of Bournabat, where many of Europeans live in the summer time. Returning back along the same route we find the Greek quarter on our left, between the street just described and the Mount Pagus, forming, in fact, a considerable portion of the base of the triangle, and stretching from north to south for nearly a mile and a half. The Armenian quarter also abuts upon the base of .the triangle, and lies between the Greek quarter seawards and the Turkish towards the land for about three quarters of a mile, so that advancing from " the Point " inland south-east to the Castle Hill, we pass first through the Greek, next through the Armenian, and lastly through the Turkish quarter. At the south-west end of the Armenian quarter stands their large new church, which forms a striking object from all points. This portion of the town suffered very considerably from a fire in 1845, and when it was rebuilt after that event considerable attention was paid to the widening of the streets and other improvements. Though traces of the fire are to be recognized even now in the ruins of many houses, yet on the whole the quarter presents a pleas- ing and creditable appearance ; the drainage is good, and in respect of cleanliness, it may well compare with any save an English town. The streets strike the attention by their great regularity and straight- ness, and the houses by the large size of their doors and windows. These are conditions rarely to be seen in an Asiatic town, and, though realized in the quarter allotted to an Asiatic race, show clearly that foreign models were followed in the reconstruction of this part of Smyrna. The Greek quarter lies between the Armenian quarter, towards the land, and the Frank street and its northward continuation, looking seawards. The pavement in the Greek, as in the other quarters, differs from that in the Turkish, by possessing no causeway ; as in the Turkish quarter, stones of all sizes are placed promiscuously in all parts of the roadway, but no attempt is made at any distinction in the Greek quarter between the middle and the sides of the street. A covered drain runs under the middle of most of the streets, and a stream of water rushes through it with considerable rapidity and volume. The roofing of these drains is often allowed to fall in, and it is surprising for how long a period the dangerous hole thus formed is allowed to remain unrepaired. In many parts of this quarter, however, especially in those towards its northern boundary, we find in place of a covered stream of sharply-flowing water, a sluggish broad uncovered drain, as offensive to the senses of the by-passer as deleterious to the health and vigour of those who live upon its banks. It is remarkable that many of the houses in the Greek quarter are one storied only; but it would be erroneous to suppose that houses of this description were occupied universally by mem- bers of the poorer classes. Many of these one- storied houses are built round a marble-floored court, which is generally of oblong form, with a fountain in the centre, and surrounded by a corridor, and they possess internal arrangements corresponding fully with the appearance of ease and comfort their ex- terior presents. The appearance of the whole quarter speaks of a general state of well-being and comfort amongst the restless stirring population it contains ; the principal defects (besides those already men- tioned) are the tortuosity of its streets, and the lack of uniformity in size and structure in the houses composing them. The Romaic population, though possessing this quarter to the almost entire exclusion of other races, is also to be found occupying patches of ground in the very centre of the quarters allotted to other nationalities. We have already mentioned one instance of this, where a block of Greek houses is wedged in between two portions of the Frank town along the seaboard. On the opposite boundary 12 of the town, we find an exactly analogous arrange- ment. High up on the hill side, which we have described as girdled by the Turkish quarter, we find a colony of Greeks clustered round their church of St. John, and thus breaking into what would other- wise be a continuous belt of Turkish houses. The Jewish The Jewish quarter interdigitates with the Turkish, quarter. Armenian, and Greek at a point marked by the large Armenian church already mentioned, and within a few yards of that building the peculiar features, buildings, and dresses of these four races may be found and studied in complete distinctness. The Jews occupy a considerable area, which is bounded on the west by the Greeks, and on the east by the Turks ; whilst the southern extremity of their quarter stretches some way up the hill side, and is entirely surrounded by Mussulman habitations. To the passing traveller this quarter is the least pleasing of all, and a more close examination will only confirm the impressions made by first appearances. Its characteristics are those presented by overcrowding and poverty, filth in the roadway, discomfort in the houses, and cachectic appearance in the inhabitants. Surrounding The lower hills in the immediate vicinity of k P Smyrna are rocky, and to a considerable extent uncultivated. Patches, however, of various sizes, varying from an acre to an acre and a half, are every here and there redeemed from waste, and bear corn, wheat and barley, crops ; and the olive grows where nothing else does, braving the heat with its polished leaves, and supplying itself with moisture in the midst of aridity. Long horizontal bands of green, of which the large-leafed fig forms a consider- able part, may be observed girdling these hills, telling of the watercourse below. The water runs in a channel formed of stones strongly fastened together, and covered internally with cement. It is supplied from the mountain springs, some of which are perennial, and are, so long as the higher moun- tains are covered with wood to the extent they are at present, likely to remain so. Some of these aqueducts run a very long course, and speak of a time when a wealthier and stronger government than 13 the present ruled in Asia Minor. The arches on which they cross and recross the valleys are, in several instances, works of considerable magnificence. They contain a large volume of water, six inches deep by eighteen inches broad, with a very rapid flow. They subserve three principal purposes. They (i) turn numerous corn mills, (the windmill, the inven- tion of Asia Minor, is not common nearer than Vour- lah, but the commonest kind of all is the mill turned by horses, &c.); they furnish (ii) water for irriga- tion ; and lastly, they are (iii) the chief and best source of water the town itself, with its numerous fountains, possesses. The loftier hills, which are at a somewhat greater Mountains, distance from the town, and range from 2,800 to 3,500 feet in height, are, in most cases, covered with vegetation to their very summit. This is an im- portant fact, as it both indicates the character of the climate, which indeed it also goes some way to con- stitute, and the supply of water which the country enjoys. The trees which clothe these mountains are not calculated for shipbuilding purposes, as the large trees are principally pine and fir; and the oaks, which are even more numerous, are almost entirely of the dwarf species. Both kinds of wood, however, are extensively used for charcoal, of which the Levant possesses an unlimited supply, and the pine and fir furnish rafters for house building ; whilst the Quercus infectoria and Quercus segilops produce galls and valonea, all of them products of great local or general interest. The several plains within a few hours' journey of The Plains. Smyrna, and that which borders the city itself, present every variety in the degrees to which culti- vation is carried. In some places we meet with large blocks of cultivated ground, the vineyard and fig garden alternating with the corn field, each and all enclosed with a stone or mud wall, and a ditch : bor- dering upon them we may find an equally extensive space of ground wholly waste and untilled, yet differ- ing in no naturally conferred condition from its more productive neighbours. The valleys of the Cayster and its tributaries, the " pinguia prata Caystri," are at 14 present, owing possibly to their distance from the pro- tection of any large Turkish town, and their consequent exposure to the depredations of robbers, who are to be found in any quantity in the islands lying close off the coast, in an almost entirely uncultivated state. A rich alluvial loam, of from four to six feet in thickness, bears nothing on its surface but the vitex agnus castus, and feeds nothing but a few sheep and multitudes of the ferae naturae. This, however, is not the case with the valleys of the Hermus and Maeander, for a sketch of the latter of which, see Appendix, p. 105. An Englishman has within the last few years taken into his hands a large quantity of ground, under the classic ridge of the Tmolus, which separates the plain of Sedikioi and Boudja from that of the Cayster ; and the rich green of his thickly standing crops contrasts pleasingly with the sun-burnt aspect of the surround- ing untilled grass land. TheGuiphand The town is built at the bottom of a gulph thirty- Bay - six miles long, the navigation through which is com- paratively easy, and does not require the services of a pilot. There is a wide passage and deep water for the whole distance save at one point. This spot is marked by the point and Castle Sanjac on the south side of the bay, about five miles distant from the town. Towards this point, on the south side, there runs out a long spit from the northern side and the embouchure of the Hermus, and the clear interval between the two Shoal at en- is little more than half a mile. It is not uncommon Bay * to see steamers and other vessels stuck fast upon this shoal, which is however free from rock, as being in great measure the deposit of the Hermus. During our residence in Smyrna this disaster never befel an English vessel. The increase of the shoal is not so considerable as to affect more than very remotely the future prospects of the port. It is as well to state See pages is that the name of the castle on this point is Sanjac, and not St. James' (St. Jacques) nor St. John's, as some of the best English maps have, somewhat amusingly, put it down. The name of the point is, like the castle upon it, of Turkish origin, and signifies Flag Point, Sanjac Bournou ; but though the Turkish flag is, as the name 15 implies, very commonly flying on this point, and though extensive barracks are contained within the enceinte of its enormously thick walls, it is un tenanted, save by one or two men, so malarious is its situation. Mount Sipylus (3,205 feet in height) and the Two Brothers (2,920 feet), on the south of the straits, stand opposite to each other, like the portals of a large gate- way. From these two points a horseshoe of mountain sweeps round and encloses Smyrna, and a maritime plain, of varying breadth and of almost unvarying fertility, within a wall of hills, in most places of less elevation than the two points at either end of the semicircle. POLITICAL HISTORY. We possess historical records of the western coast sketch of early of Asia Minor for a period of about 3,000years. During histor y- this period we meet with several epochs of great material prosperity, but with one only of political independence and free institutions. At the date B.C. 1000, we find the whole of the western coast of Asia Minor, and the islands immediately adjacent, occupied by Greek colonies, and we have reason to believe that they maintained an independent existence for the 500 years following. The Cyclopian walls, still to be seen in this country, Era of Greek testify to the existence of the kindred Pclasgic race, s > 50 who were in possession of the soil previously to the Greek immigration ; but we have no information as to their modes of life or government. The 500 years of independence, from 1064 B.C. to 560 B.C., the era of Croesus, are marked by the names of Homer and Thales, of Sappho and Anaxagoras, and the language they spoke has ever since maintained its ground in the country in which they flourished. The trade and commerce of Asia Minor was of great importance even at this early period ; the wool manufactures (Milesia vellera), and the luxurious habits of the Ionian merchants (iwv^ rp^), are subjects of constant allusion in the classical authors. Croesus, the King of Lydia, made (B.C. 560) the whole of the Greek 16 Ruin under Croesus. Eevival under Alexander. colonies in Asia Minor his tributaries, realizing thus an object at which his dynasty had been ineffectually aiming for 150 years, and inaugurating for the Asiatic Greek ages of unvarying political subordination under various political masters. It seems that jealousy and want of union amongst themselves was the cause of the subjugation of the Greeks of B.C. 560, as of the Greeks of 1453 A.D. Theognis, the aristocratic exile of Megara, alluding to the fall of these independent Republics, has the following lines : xoCi Mayvrjraj Kai ]Ejaupvav. Theognis, 1104. For some reason unknown to us, Smyrna was treated with unusual severity, the city was razed to the ground and was not rebuilt till the time of Alexander the Great. Hence it is that, save a passing notice in Herodotus, who mentions the transfer of Smyrna from the ^Eolian to the Ionian federation, we read nothing about its history in the writings of the great Greek authors. Alexander, however, seeing how advantageous a site for a large city was to be found on the shores of the Gulph of Smyrna, collected together such Greeks as still claimed to be Smyrniotes, though their city had lain waste for 200 years, and founded it anew at a distance of about two miles from the ruins of the ancient town. The site of the ancient town is marked at present by a paper mill belonging to the Turkish government, and lies considerably to the right of the Meles, whose situation is identified by the words of the oracle which was obtained to sanction the removal, and which bid the Greeks "cross the sacred Meles, and dwell on Mount Pagus." Under the successors of Alexander, Smyrna enjoyed, as we learn from inscriptions on coins and passing notices in contemporary writers, a pre- eminence amongst the cities of Asia, and a high degree of material prosperity. The same remarks will apply to the ages of Roman supremacy, during which Smyrna was celebrated for its schools of science and medicine, for its magnificent buildings and general opulence. It suffered several times during the epoch of the two 17 empires from earthquakes, which it is said have in- variably, in ancient as in modern times, taken place in the month of June. An earthquake, which threw down a large portion of the whole town in 1 77 A.D., gave Marcus Aurelius an occasion for the display of that munificence which the Roman government so em P ire8 - often displayed, and which not improbably contri- buted somewhat towards inducing the conquered Greeks to adopt the name, Pco^a^, though not the language, of their Italian masters. Smyrna was one of the seven churches of Asia to which St. John addressed his warnings, and in the later days of Leon the Wise, it was placed in the position of metropolis to six other bishoprics. In the year 1084 A.D. began that series of struggles between the Greek and the Turk which, after lasting 335 years, ended in the final establishment of the Turkish supremacy under Sultan Mahomet I., in the year 1419. A Turkish pirate, Tsachas, at the head ^ c k k lsh hordes of a considerable horde of his countrymen, established himself in this part of Asia Minor in the year 1084 A.D., and held his ground against all the forces of the Greek empire for about thirteen years. Though driven out in the year 1097 by John, the brother-in- law of the Emperor Alexius Commenus, he again obtained possession of Smyrna, and, after being ex- pelled from it a second time, he seems at last to have perished by treachery on the part of Alexius and his kinsman, Asian, the Turkish Sultan. Alexius and his immediate successors, taught by experience, fortified Smyrna and the other towns more immediately exposed by their vicinity to the seaboard, (at that time entirely Greek,) to the attacks of the Turk, who was then, it would appear, more competent than at present to maritime enterprise. Whilst Constantinople was in the hands of the Latins, A.D. 1202-1261, Smyrna formed part of the Greek Empire of Nice. Under the heroic Theo- dore Lascaris I. and the statesmanlike John Ducas Vataces (Bara-r^c) Asia Minor appears to have enjoyed a season of prosperity and repose, a period of calm and lull preceding the tempest of rapine 18 and destruction which the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries brought with them. It was in the thirteenth century that the castle, whose ruins still overlook the Town of Smyrna, and the Palace at Nymphi, the favourite residence of John Vataces, were built, each of which, by their parallel and horizontal rows of flat tiling interposed between stone masonry, shows, did we know it from no other sources, the comparatively recent epoch of its erection. [We may observe, that a totally dif- ferent style of building is observable in the castle opposite the mouth of the Hermus at the entrance of the bay. This fort is of Turkish construction, and was erected at the times of the Venetian wars, A.D. 1656.] Era of Turkish In the fourteenth century Asia Minor was parcelled out by different Turkish chieftains into separate principalities, which maintained an independent ex- istence as such until the days of Bajazet, A.D. 1400. The whole of the maritime country from Rhodes to Scutari came at this time finally into the hands of the Turks. A band of Catalans were invited by the Greek Emperor Andronicus, A.D. 1303, to lend their aid towards averting the catastrophe, but the Greeks have left it on record, that they found the friendship of the Catalans more hurtful than the enmity of the Turks. In 1313 Aidin, one of the Seepages Turkish emirs, possessed himself of Tralles and Smyrna, and his name is still borne by the former of these two places in one of the fairest valleys in the world. After a reign of twelve years Aidin trans- mitted the government of his principality to his son Held by Omar. But whilst Omar was absent with his fleet Rhodes! on an expedition in aid of Cantacuzene into the sea of Marmora, the Knights of Rhodes made a descent upon Smyrna and seized the castle on the water's edge, from which all the attempts made by the Turks to dislodge them were ineffectual for a period of fifty-seven years. When we consider that this build- ing is completely commanded by the fort on Mount Pagus, which was in the hands of the Turks, and that it is scarcely elevated at all above the level of the sea, which also was from time to time in the 19 power of the enemy, and that enemy under the orders of such Princes as Amurath I., the organiser of the janissaries, and Bajazet, the fortifier of Galli- poli, we are compelled, even after making all allow- ance for the difference between the artillery of the fourteenth and fifteenth, and that of the nineteenth centuries, to pay no scanty praise to that band of heroes who held such a post for more than half a century. The Knights of Rhodes, after a fourteen days' seige, A.D. 1402, fell, as their old antagonists the Turks had fallen, under the destroying sword of Tamerlane, who is said to have erected at Smyrna, as elsewhere, a hideous monument of his triumph in the shape of a pyramid of human skulls. Though the Turkish empire might have been thought wounded to death on the field of Angora, owing to the divisions of Western Europe and the imbecility of the Eastern empire, its deadly wound was healed, and in 1424, little more than twenty years after that Final cession to event, we find the Turks in final possession of Smyrna. With the exception of a threatening demonstration on the part of a Venetian fleet in A.D. 1694, and a few outbreaks on that of the Romaic population at periods of great political excitement, Smyrna has remained exempt from the scourge of war from the times of Amurath II., A.D. 1424, down to those of Abdul Medjid. But though unscathed by war for the last 400 years, Smyrna has within that period suffered severely on two occasions from earthquakes. In 1688 little was left standing in the city, save the castle on Mount Pagus ; all the archives and public records were destroyed : and in 1778 the earthquake was accompanied by a fire, which proved itself most destructive. From this latter scourge the city suf- fered considerably so recently as the year 1845. It is obvious from this short sketch that no con- clusion can be drawn from the present condition of a town which has suffered so much from the destroying influence of the elements and the more desolating fury of man, as to the appearance it presented in its several eras of happiness and prosperity. But from the medals and other antiquities which, Dr. Chandler B 2 Turks A.D. 1424. 20 says, Smyrna has contributed in greater abundance than any other Greek city, we are justified in infer- ring that its ancient importance as a commercial emporium and seat of government was not inferior to that which it at present holds. The advantages of its position have enabled it to rise again and again from its ashes, and nothing can speak so strongly for its admirable situation as its repeated recovery from calamities which were suffi- cient to destroy finally and for ever its neighbours and rivals Clazomense and Ephesus.* POPULATION. The population of Smyrna may be estimated as amounting to 150,000 souls. Such was the result come to by the last census, which was taken in 1849, and no material change either for increase or decrease has since been effected in the whole mass of the population. Nearly 100,000 of the inhabitants, i.e. two-thirds, are either Greeks or Turks, whose num- bers were till lately all but equal, though now the numerical superiority is with the Greeks. The rest of the population is made up by Arme- nians, Jews, Roman Catholics, generally of European extraction, and European settlers. There are few other towns in the world with a fixed and resident population consisting of so many distinct and dis- tinguishable elements. Turkish. The Turks. The dominant race numbers about 45,000 souls, this at least was their number when the last census was taken ; but poverty and the conscription for the war have since then acted as a check upon the increase of the poorer classes, and the richer classes have suffered a diminution in their numbers, owing to their practice of procuring abortion, a habit to * Our authorities for the political history of Smyrna have been (i.) (Economus: Atmxr^eSjo? Ar^j/3>] Trstn %fj,ugvYj$. Malta 1831. (ii.) The several historians to whom he refers, (iii.) Gib- bon's Roman Empire, chapters 59, 61, 62, 64. 21 which the poorer classes are likewise addicted. The rich Turks form but a very small portion of the whole nation, and the sources of their wealth are few. The rich man is either a government employe or a landed proprietor ; the Turk of the present day seems in most cases incompetent either to successful manu- facture or speculation. The morality in vogue among Turks in the first of Turks as offi ' these lines of life has given rise to the proverb com- mon in the East, u Aocrs TOV Toupxov p^^ara xai TvQXcuve" " Bribe the Turk, and blind him." It is more pleasing to contemplate the other prin- Turks as ex- cipal source of Turkish wealth, the export of raw por produce, for which branch of commerce the country is so well fitted, that neither the export duties of the government nor the extortion of its officials have been able materially to diminish it. The staple products are grain (Tsw^ara in the Greek returns), fruits (oTToocaj), wool (ftaAAia), and drugs. Details upon these subjects are given elsewhere in this Report, under the head of Commerce, see pp. 73-87, and Appendix, p. 89- Such Turkish capital as is invested Turks in trad^ in trade we find flowing principally in the following channels : the manufacture of saddlery and horse trappings, and clothing for domestic use exclusively and of Asiatic pattern ; of camel bells, horse shoes and nails, and a few of the coarser productions of hardware, such as locks, chains, &c. and the drums for packing figs. All these trades serve to employ the poorer Turkish population, but are of compara- tively little importance to foreign nations, and in this point of view they differ from the carpet trade, a branch of commerce as yet entirely in Turkish hands. The upper class Turks have to a great extent Cress, adopted European costumes, though they still retain the fez as a mark of their nationality. The lower orders still wear the turban and the loose breeches, almost as large and flowing as a petticoat, fastened just below the knee. This dress sets off to great advantage the sturdy proportions so commonly to be met with among the Turkish labouring classes, and it contributes also not a little to give dignity to the exterior of their priests and moollahs. The Euro- 22 Manners and habits. Wages. Labour, chiefly agricultural. peanised Turk seldom appears to advantage in his new dress, though he is diligent in striving to copy his model as exactly as possible. He has, however, borrowed as little of real value from the European civilization which is now in full life around him, as he has done from that whose ruins are to be seen at every turn in the country his sword won for him. The Turk has unfortunately adopted from the western nations the habit of drunkenness, the only sensual indulgence expressly discountenanced by his religion, and it is somewhat strange that this, a vice especially of colder climates and of more lively races, should to some extent have superseded here the practice of opium eating, a habit more congenial to the dreamy temperaments and burning sky of Asia. The leisure time of the upper classes is not employed in active sports or exercise ; they either dream it away by the aid of their chibouque, or spend it in lounging walks and unprofitable visits. The working Turk spends his evenings at houses of entertainment closely analogous to the continental cafe, where coffee and tobacco furnish him with a solace within easy reach of the poorest. His wages have varied from 7 to 8 gr., I4d. to l6d. per diem, in 1853, to 12 gr., 2s. per diem, in 1856; and bread has varied at the same periods from Id. to l^d. 9 If d per lb., and meat from 4d. to 6d. per Ib. Fish and vegetables of all kinds are so exceed- ingly cheap here as only to be estimated by the para, a coin equal to one-fifth of a farthing in value, and they are in this country most important articles of diet. A comparison of these several prices would lead one to infer, what an inspection would show, the existence of a well-nourished poor population. It is in agricultural labour of one sort or other almost exclusively that the poor Turk is employed ; he is scarcely ever set to perform any operation more complex than that of picking and sorting the raw pro- duce which more skilled labourers will one day elabo- rate. We will here, however, enumerate the exceptions to this rule, the instances, that is, in which the Turk appears as a manufacturer, however unimportant they may appear. 23 Many of the poor Turks get their living by the Also manu- manufacture of the circular drums so familiar to us as fig boxes. For further particulars, see under " Commerce," p. 104, in Appendix. There are in Smyrna many Turks employed as nail And of nans and lock manufacturers. The general order of things and locks * seems to be here reversed. Bar iron and pig iron are exported from England, and made up into nails and horseshoes in Asia Minor. The means at the dis- posal of the Turk for working up the raw material are of the very simplest description ; such an appa- ratus as would be thought inadequate by a roadside blacksmith in England, a pair of bellows, a few bricks, an anvil, and a charcoal fire. These forges, such as they are, are not massed together as we find them in Constantinople, but are scattered about in the Turkish quarter, and are generally placed in the yard of a private dwelling-house. A tolerably good lock, of rough construction but of considerable strength, from one of these forges may be bought for 15 piastres = 2s. 6d. Thirdly, the porterage of Smyrna is almost entirely And town em- performed by Turks. As this is an employment for P which no talent and no capital, save that of a strong body, is required, one would expect to find an excess of candidates for it, and a minimum of remuneration ; and, were the porters not protected by their posses- sion of a monopoly, and being formed into a guild, such undoubtedly would be the case. As it is the Smyrna porters pay heavy taxes to the Government, and in return have the monopoly of the conveyance of goods from the sea shore secured to them. They are divided into sections, and each of these is organised under one head, who receives a certain share of the profits, and manages the payment of their taxes to Government. There are 3,000 porters in Smyrna, most, if not all of them, Turks, who come from the interior to Smyrna at the age of from eighteen to twenty, and continue here till they have accumulated a considerable sum of money, after which they with- draw again to their homes. Iconium is the place whence most of them come. They have fixed rates of charges (4 piastres anywhere within the town for one bale of goods), and they do not generally make 24 Gravestones worked by Greeks Turkish women. As manufac- turers. See Commerce, p. 85. Religion and education. any attempt at extorting more than this. The loads they carry are enormous, as much as 300 Ibs. being frequently placed upon one of them ; and their physi- cal development is indicative of their great strength, great labour, and temperate life. We may note in passing, the apparently merely curious but yet not altogether insignificant fact, that the gravestones of the Turks, which are not unfre- quently covered with inscriptions in their somewhat complex caligraphy, and consequently demand some skill in their workmanship, are entirely made by Greeks. The same account may be given of the female part of the Turkish population in Smyrna as in other cities of the empire. Infanticide and prostitution are rare, but the Turkish woman, with a view of retain- ing her hold on her husband's affections, very com- monly procures the abortion of her unborn child. A larger proportion of Turkish women than is generally supposed possess the accomplishments of reading and writing, but beyond this degree their education has not advanced. The Turkish women make linen and silken textures of various degrees of fineness for the use of their own households, and within their own houses, but the manufacture of the Turkey carpet and the richly embroidered and flowery praying carpet is also almost entirely carried on by female hands. For the con- struction of these fabrics, and also of others intended for display by the Oriental, and purchased as curio- sities by the European, no other machinery than the very simplest is employed. The Turkish empire is in idea a theocracy, or perhaps we should rather say a prophetocracy, and in practice we find that their religious sentiments and beliefs exercise a most decided and tangible influence over the most trivial as well as the most important actions of Mussulmen. Religious and educational institutions, more or less closely connected in most countries, are in the Turkish mutually independent, and as if by logical sequence no education is thought necessary to be provided publicly for the Turkish woman. Their schools are schools for boys only. These institutions are attached 25 to the mosques, of which there are eighteen in Smyrna, and which are all more or less richly endowed. The fees for instruction are very small and the scholars are of the lower and middle classes ; the richer Turks providing themselves with private instructors. The Imaums are the teachers in the Turkish schools, the Koran and the writings of the commentators upon it are their class books; and, difficult though their language be both to read and write, a very large proportion of the poorer Turks can do both. So much of arithmetic is taught as is necessary for the simple business transactions of the Mussulman popu- lation. The cheapness of these schools and the absence of any manufacture where children's labour might be turned to account, explains the compara- tively wide diffusion of this somewhat scanty educa- tion. Few of the Turkish officials in Smyrna could speak any Western language, one only, Ali Effendi, who held the post of Sanitary Commissioner, could both speak French fluently, and English enough for the common purposes of life. The proportion of wealthy Turks who have received an education in Paris, is much smaller than that of the corresponding class of Greeks. Lastly, there is no Turkish news- paper in Smyrna. The priests know little beyond the dogmas of their Priests, religion, and the influence they possess is trifling, though their wealth is not inconsiderable when esti- mated by a Turkish standard. Certain revenues designed for the relief of the poor and indigent are attached to the mosques, and of these the priests are the dispensers, but they cannot be said to take any active interest in the objects of this benevolence. Such attempts as have been made in Smyrna conversion, towards converting Mahomedans have met with no success. A mission was founded in the place by the Church Missionary Society of Great Britain, twenty-four years ago ; but at that time a law was in force which assigned the penalty of death to any Mussulman who forsook the faith of his forefathers, and this circumstance co-operated powerfully, with others, towards deterring any one from taking such a step. Books, however, and tracts in the Turkish language have been distributed amongst the Turks, 26 Government of the Turks. Pasha and Council. Tribunals, cri- minal. but the most successful field of labour has been found by the missionary to be among the Christian popula- tion. The consideration of the government of the country will naturally fall under the head of the Turkish population, as that population is the dominant or ruling race, and, till lately, occupied that position almost to the entire exclusion of all others. What follows, however, was written previously to the promulgation of the Hatti Scheriff of February 1856. The government of Smyrna is vested in a pasha and his council. For the office of pasha in this, the second city of the Turkish empire, a man of some note has generally been selected, and the present pasha has occupied posts of importance at the courts of Western Europe. Within the last twelve years Smyrna has had no less than six pashas, so short is generally their tenure of office, a fact at which we should not wonder when we think that they often have to contend at once with intrigue from without on the part of the representatives of some European power, and from within on the part of their private enemies, to whom their own misconduct has not unfrequently given a handle. The council associated with the pasha for the administration of justice in civil and criminal cases, consists of a cadi, the chief of the police, and the representatives of the several communities of Greeks, Armenians, Jews, and Roman Catholic Rayas. The final decision rests with the pasha, who has not, how- ever, the power of life and death. In every instance where a sentence of death is passed it is forwarded to Constantinople for the Sultan's approval, and before it is carried into execution it is necessary that the signature of the chief priest be also affixed to it. These formalities, and especially the latter of them, have frequently tended to defeat the ends of justice ; their existence has opened a door for the practice of bribery and the procuring of delay in behalf of notorious criminals, though it may have occasionally prevented the perpetration of a judicial murder. Most of the cases brought before this tribunal are petty, and we may remark that there are no female prisoners to be seen in their prisons. There is another council for mercantile cases. This Mercantile, council awards the punishments in cases of fraudulent bankruptcy and other varieties of dishonest dealing. The punishment consists in imprisonment for a longer or shorter period, and it is to be remarked that after the expiration of the term of his sentence the debtor is still held to be liable for the amount of the debt he has incurred. Imprisonment is the punishment awarded to every Punishments, variety of crime, except to such cases as, by their agrant character, or by their affecting some indivi- dual under European protection, compel the authorities to inflict capital punishment. Criminals condemned to death are decapitated, and this punishment is, if possible, inflicted near the place where the offence was committed. If the offender be a Greek it is sometimes found necessary to execute him by night for fear of an outbreak on the part of his countrymen. There are two places for the imprisonment of Prisons, criminals, exclusive of those attached to the several consulates for the confinement of offenders under their protection. One, the Turkish, is in the pasha's residence, and was formerly the only establishment of the kind in existence in Smyrna. It consists of three or four small rooms, and is used for the confine- ment of offenders before they are tried, for the punish- ment of debtors, and of petty criminals. There is no arrangement apparently for separating criminals guilty of one order of crime from those guilty of another, but it is seen that the richer offenders generally contrive to obtain either complete privacy or the company of men of their own rank in life. The second prison is on a more extensive scale, and can contain 100 prison- ers. It was formerly a khan, and when the want of increased prison accommodation made itself felt, the strong doors and walls of that kind of building made its conversion to that use easy and obvious; most of See Commerce, the prisoners here are homicides of one sort or another, r and by nationality Greeks. In some cases the sentence of death has been Punishments, awarded, but has been commuted, as the Turkish law allows for a five years' imprisonment on the payment of a certain sum of money to the murdered man's 28 Greeks. Numbers. Identity with old Greek race. Three argu- ments. family or friends. Political offenders are also con- fined here, and we saw one large and tolerably com- fortable room allotted to three Mussulmen, wearing however heavy chains, who had organized a rising of some thousand men at Aidin, in the interior. A certain ration of bread is allowed each prisoner from the Government, and, with the exception of spirits, they are permitted to purchase anything they please. The poorer prisoners provide themselves with bags, which they let down from their windows to receive such charity as the- passers by may bestow upon them. Sentences are awarded and carried into exe- cution in a manner that leaves much to be desired. As regards the carrying of a sentence into execution, it is often found that a prisoner who has wealthy friends has disappeared in an unaccountable manner, and has resumed his old practices in a new field. And it is impossible wholly to discredit the stories in every one's mouth, which go to show that money has nearly as great an influence with witnesses and judges previously, as with the jailors subsequently to the passing of a sentence. Greek. At least one-third of the inhabitants of Smyrna are Greeks by blood, language, and religion ; their numbers may be estimated as amounting to 50,000, thus exceeding slightly those of the Turkish popu- lation ; and the events which have occurred within the last two years will be found to have increased their relative majority. Several considerations in- duce us to consider the Greek of Smyrna as a genuine representative and descendant of the ancient Hellene. First, the creations of ancient Greek art are strikingly reproduced in the living Greek. The characteristic bearing and expression of the old models are constantly brought before our minds as we meet the modern Greek in the streets. A most striking illustration of our meaning is furnished by a comparison of the Ulysses of the ancient artists with the seafaring Greek of the present day. But not only do we trace a correspondence between the tout ensemble of the sculptured marble and the general expression of the living individual, but we also 29 observe a close resemblance in the details of limb and feature in the two subjects of comparison. It is sufficient to specify the lips, nose, eyes, hair, and forehead as points of coincidence. Secondly, Romaic has always been the language of the Asiatic Greek, even when Albanian was spoken in Athens, and ^uo-a >j EAX^ lo-xXa/S&uSrj. Thirdly, The Greek of modern Hellas will allow that his race has suffered less from the intermixture of foreign blood in Asia Minor than in Greece Proper itself. We append his own words : " Kara TOV Mscraiwva xai jw,5T7rera r) EAAr,vj>t^ (pvXYj ipuAap$y] jtxaAAov a^iKTOs Iv rrj Mxp#cna xaj ra vrjcroij >j sv n=Ao7rovvr;(7w. From a work published at Syra, 1855, entitled nveAA>]v<V, p. 138. Of the 50,000 Smyrniote Greeks, the great majority Baya, and pro- are subjects of the Porte, and are now to be governed * according to the provisions laid down by the Hatti Scheriffof 1856. A few are Greek subjects, and are governed by Greek law ; whilst from 2,000 to 3,000 are British subjects, and are under the jurisdiction of the British consul, and are governed by Ionian law. The Smyrniote Greek has regular features of the Appearance. classical model, a stature above middle height, and an expression of vivacity and restlessness in his coun- tenance contrasting strongly with the acquiescent somnolence of the Asiatic races surrounding him. The upper classes have universally adopted the European dress, but the labouring population have a costume peculiar to themselves, they wear large and very loose breeches of blue calico fastening below the knee, and serving thus as a means for supporting the stocking. The fustanella, or multi- fold petticoat of the Albanian is not worn by the Anatolian Greek, though it is becoming the national dress of the Hellenic. A Guernsey shirt and sailors blue jacket, with shoes and stockings, sometimes complete their dress. But the Greek who is a little above the very poorest class, wears generally a white shirt, and over it a braided waistcoat in addi- tion to the jacket. All Greeks who have not adopted * In the Middle Ages and subsequently, the Greek race kept itself more free from intermixture with other races in Asia Minor and the islands than in the Peloponnesus. 30 Greek mer- chants. Commercial character of Greeks. the European costume were a distinctive fez. This fez is taller than that worn by the Turks, and more nearly resembles what is known in works of ancient art as the Phrygian bonnet, but it differs from it too, in not being pointed at the extremity, and in having a long silken tassel appended. The colour of the fez itself is red, and to obtain this colour cochineal is largely imported from England and from Greece. As a whole, this dress is both sensible and be- coming. In every occupation and profession the Greek is to be found. There are Greek merchants, Greek lawyers, Greek doctors, each in the very highest walks of his calling. The business of exporting and importing goods to and from Europe is becoming more and more mono- polised by the Greek merchants day by day. They are compelled by the conditions of the insurance companies to employ European bottoms and sailors to transport their freight, and they have a line of English steamers in their employment, several of them reaching a tonnage of 1,200 tons, and num- bering already five or six vessels named after the several countries of ancient Hellas, the " Arcadia," the " Laconia," &c. It is in great measure their local knowledge and connexions which enable them to compete with merchants of other nations at so great an advantage in this particular branch of busi- ness. There are many instances to be pointed out in Smyrna of Greek merchants who have raised themselves by their own exertions and industry from a very poor condition to one of opulence, and on the other hand it is said that their very wealthiest merchants are in the habit of furthering their own interests by methods which, though not positively dishonest, are yet such as none but the pettiest tradesman of another race would condescend to em- ploy. The charge, however, of positive dishonesty is one very frequently brought against the Greek mer- chant, and to a certain extent our own investigations and experience have satisfied us of the truth of it. It is not a little remarkable that in the rules for the election of a managing committee for the Greek College, a special proviso exists declaring the ineligi- 31 bility of fraudulent bankrupts for the office. That such a rule should be necessary shows two things : I. The frequency of the offence. II. The scanty amount of public reprobation awarded to it. The Greek physicians and lawyers receive their Greek phy- professional education in the schools of continental Europe, and especially in those of Paris and Athens. We have found the younger Greek members of the medical profession in Smyrna quite on a level with the theory and practice of the present day, and though no restriction or regulation exists as to the indispensability to the practitioner of a diploma from some respectable source, considerable regard is paid by the public to the possession of proper qualifica- tions. The largest income made by any practi- tioner in Smyrna is made by a Greek physician, and amounts to 1,500^ per annum. The fee for each visit is 15 piastres = 2s. 6d., but we believe it is usual for the Smyrniote practitioner to make several visits where one would be held amply sufficient in Europe. As a standard of comparison, we may men- tion that the head master (Aeu0uvnj$) of the large school in Smyrna in which the Greek professional man receives his non-professional education has a salary of 2,000 (grosia) piastres per month, i.e., a little under 200 /. per annum. The Greek is to be found in all the employments Trades and of humble life, whether as a small tradesman, artisan, boatman, or day labourer. The profits of the small tradesman cannot easily be estimated, but in several instances we have found the master of a shop of very humble pretensions to be the owner and occupier of a house in some other part of the town, the rent of which in Smyrna would have been 35 /. to 40/. per annum. The wages paid to day labourers during the time that we were in Smyrna varied from 8 piastres = 16</., up to 12 piastres = 2s. per diem. Previously to the war 7 piastres = I4d., was the amount usually paid. The condition of the labouring population Was at this time one of well-being, as the price of bread was 2 piastres per oke = 4d. for 2^1bs., and a whole sheep might be purchased for 80 piastres, 32 Mental state of poor. i.e., about 13s. Indeed, squalid visages and ragged clothes are seldom, if ever, to be seen among the Greek population. As regards the intellectual condition of the lower class Greek, he is to be considered as intelligent and tolerably well informed ; as regards his moral cha- racter, he is distinguished by his desire to better his condition and rise in the world, while, on the other hand, his aspirations are frequently counteracted by his own turbulence and volatility. Drunkenness prevails to a considerable extent amongst this class of the population ; and this vice is encouraged by the great cheapness of intoxicating drinks, wine ranging from 4 to 5 piastres per oke, i.e., 8d. to lOd. for as much as will fill two English quart bottles, and raki, a strong spirit, selling at from Is. to I4d. for the same quantity. Much time is spent in drinking and smoking in cafes by the lower orders ; and though these establishments are closed comparatively early in the evening, they are, while open, invariably crowded. Their walls are almost invariably hung thickly with prints of scenes and heroes of the Greek war of independence ; and we may here pass by an easy transition to the consideration of that enmity to every- thing Turkish which is so universally found in all classes of Greeks, and so deeply imbedded in each in- dividual heart as to be rightly viewed as constituting apart of the moral nature of the entire race. The passing traveller in Turkey cannot fail to become ac- quainted with the existence of this bitter feeling, and from what he sees of the easy going, uninterfering regime of the Turks, he is often puzzled how to ac- count for it. Much of this hatred is to be ascribed to the comparatively recent occurrences of the war of independence, when the vilest passions and the vilest characters had freedom and abundant oppor- tunity for the perpetration of every kind of cruelty, but much also is 'due to other causes. Every one who has formed even a passing acquaint- ance with a Greek will have had several stories of ii. Extortion on wrong and extortion which he has suffered at the Turk - hands of the Turk related to him. Should this acquaintance ripen into confidence, the Greek will Hatred to Turk three causes. i. Reminis- cences of War of Independ- ence. communicate how the Turk has been induced in many instances to commute a system of irregular and occasional exaction for one of organized and regular receiving of bribes. This plan was carried out to perfection, and on the grand scale, in Chios previous to the massacre. At the present time, when the eyes of Europe are turned towards Turkey and along the seaboard, where the protection or mediation of an European consul is easily procurable, instances of extortion are not now so exceedingly common as they are said to be, but a day's journey into the interior will still furnish the inquirer with numerous and well-authenticated cases. But there is a third cause, besides these two, which * Personal has operated more powerfully than both of them combined to imbue the whole Greek nature with the principle of hatred to the Turk. This cause is the insolence of the Turk in the daily transactions of common life, and his proneness to inflict personal outrage. Much exaggeration would naturally find place in the relation of cases of this kind, but the general truth of the assertion is unassailable. A Greek in the distinctive dress of his race could never enter the Turkish quarter of the town in which he lived without running great risk of suffering per- sonal violence ; and even in other parts of the town it was not unusual, until the time of the occupation of Turkey by the Allies, for a Greek to be saluted with the appellation " Giaour," and a blow at the same instant from an uneducated fanatical Turk ; and to find on appealing for redress to one of the higher class of the same race that none was to be had. In numberless other ways the Turk has been wont to remind the Raya of his subordinate position by methods which, while they envenomed and alien- ated the feelings of his subject for ever, served to gratify his own splenetic impulse only for an instant. Distinctions and restrictions as to dress and other externals seem trifling and easy to bear only to those who are not subjected to them. The existence of this evil, as well as of the other evil of oppression and extortion, is recognized and condemned in the Decree of February 18, 1856, by which the Turk 34 Intensity of hatred to Turks. Dislike of Eoman Ca- tholics. Russian sym- pathies. has publicly declared, what was already widely known, that when left to himself neither justice induces him to respect the rights nor policy the feelings of his subjects. But whatever the causes which may have en- gendered it, there exists in the Greek towards the Turk a feeling of hatred and bitterness, the very physical expression of which on the countenance of its possessor it is painful to contemplate. It is common alike to young and old, to both sexes, and all ranks. A strong feeling of dislike and distrust exists between the Greek and the Roman Catholic popu- lation, which is fostered by the priests of either persuasion, and embittered by the difference of the two religious systems. The Greeks accuse the Roman Catholics of having joined with the Turks in the barbarous massacre of Chios ; and, whether this be true or false, there is no doubt that on numerous occasions the Roman Catholic population has some- what ostentatiously put itself in opposition to the in- terests of the Greek. At the present moment the Greek dislike for Rome is not wholly unmingled with fear, as great exertions are being made throughout the Levant at the present juncture by Roman Catholic emissaries of several orders, who are acting under the sanction and with the patronage of the French Government, and have at all events succeeded in causing great suspicion to attach itself to the in- tentions of what the Greeks call y $1X08^x0; woAmx^. See p. 47. The attachment of the Greek to the Russian interest has been somewhat exaggerated. It has at all times been pronounced rather on its negative than on its positive side ; it has been rather a com- munity of enmity to the Turk than a complete union of feelings and interests, the "idem nolle" without the " idem velle " necessary to make up a " firma amicitia." The upper class Greek, who is not much in- fluenced by the priests, looked to Russia with the hope that by her means the Turkish Empire would be brought to an end ; but he always felt and ex- 35 pressed a firm determination never to live under such a system of despotism as the Czar's. The lower class Greek, on the other hand, is considerably under the influence of the priest, and these indivi- duals again are firmly attached to Russia through fear and jealousy of the rival Catholic Church, and have, in consequence, instilled into their flock attach- ment to their co-religionists (fy^^rxw) as one of their first duties. The Greeks, however, whatever aspirations they made for the success of the Russian arms while the event was yet doubtful, had always a shrewd suspicion that under another form of govern- ment they might be forced to curb somewhat their vaporing and volatile tempers ; and, when free from the maddening influence of fanaticism and raid, they were not slow to confess the distrust they felt for their future friends. The better educated Greeks are in the habit of Feeling toward* expressing great admiration for the political insti- the En g lish - tutions of England, with the working of which, travel in England has familiarized many of them. Amongst all classes the English have a reputation for truth- fulness and straightforward dealing, and though slow to follow the example, the Greek is not slow to respect the character. An act of brigandage on the part of a Greek band had for its object, in June 1855, an English medical practitioner, resident per- manently in Smyrna. Though the matter seemed to wear another aspect at the time, several reasons conspire to make us believe that an Englishman was selected then principally because it was thought that under the circumstances he would fetch a better ransom than an individual of any other nation. Fanatical and political reasons may have exercised influence over the making of the selection ; but it is well known that the same band had been in the habit of pillaging persons of every variety of faith and politics indiscriminately. To a certain extent, the political aspirations of the Political aspi- Greek are at one with those of the Roman Catholic rations - and the Armenian ; all alike feel the evils of living under a weak government, and all alike desire a government capable of enforcing order, and ensuring c 2 36 justice and security to its subjects. So that this end be attained the Roman Catholic and Armenian are to a great extent careless under whose government it be brought about. It is not so with the Greek. An element of nationality enters into all his calcula- tions. In his day dream of the future he reverts to the past, and sighs for the days when the Turk reigned in the inland city of Iconium, and the whole of the seaboard of the Archipelago and Asia Minor belonged to the Greek emperor in Byzantium The daily increasing monied and numerical majority of his race in the seaport towns of the Levant makes his hopes appear not wholly chimerical, but it is to be feared that his political education is not yet suffi- ciently advanced to allow of his assuming and retain- ing such a position to his own credit and the lasting advantage of the general commonwealth of nations. The Greeks in Smyrna have for the management and support of their own institutions, such as their schools, hospitals, &c., formed themselves into a municipal body called the T^MKIKYI xoivonj?, the Greek community, to the common fund of which every Greek is obliged to contribute according to his means. Education. No educational institution in Smyrna bears the The Greek name of university (navsTnerr^iov). The aim of its large school (called Ewayyexix^ <TX Q ^-) is expressly stated in its own programme to be the preparation of its pupils for the university. But a view of the curri- culum of study pursued at the Greek college in Smyrna will show, that in communicating liberal as opposed to special, general as opposed to professional instruction, it more nearly approaches our notion of university than the universities of Athens and Syra themselves, whose especial aim it is to qualify men for the exercise of the three learned professions. From this programme, as given on the next page, we see that though no attempt is made at commu- nicating the special knowledge, or at giving the special preparation necessary for the practice of any Course of study one profession, the course of study here prescribed at the college. . r . ~ , , , J n ,., r , , contains every one of the branches of a liberal educa- tion mathematics, language, history, and moral and 37 i. Year. 1st Class in Hellenic School." Programme of the Seven Years Curriculum in the " Evangelical School " of Smyrna. C i. Practical arithmetic up to fractions, ii. Greek gram- I mar. Etymology up to irregular verbs, iii. First volume of I a book called "'Elementary lessons in Greek :" Contents, <J Grammatical Exercises ; JEsop's Fables ; Sayings of the j Wise Men. iv. Ancient history in epitome, v. Sacred history of Old Testament. vi. Exercises written. [_vii. Writing, viii. Drawing. i. Practical arithmetic to the end. ii. Greek grammar, etymology, irregular verbs. Derivation and compound words, iii. Second volume of " Elementary lessons :" Contents, Plutarch's Lives, Xenophon's Hellenics, and Thu- cydides. iv. Epitome of Mediaeval history, v. Political geography, vi. New Testament history, vii. Exercises, viii. Writing, ix. Drawing. C i. Practical geometry, ii. Greek grammar. Syntax. I iii. Third volume of " Elementary lessons in Greek :" Contents, Xenophon's Memorabilia ; Plato's Crito ; certain ^ passages from his other dialogues ; Plutarch's Ethics. iv. Elements of French, v. Political geography to the end. vi. Epitome of modern history. vii. Grecian history. viii. Sacred instruction, ix. Exercises, x. Drawing. i. Theoretical arithmetic, ii. Greek syntax. Construc- tion and idioms, iii. Isocrates, with the speeches of Lysias and Demosthenes, especially the Philippics and Olynthiacs, with reading aloud, iv. French, v. Natural history of man. vi. Mathematical and physical geography, vii. An- cient history not epitomised, viii. Sacred instruction up to end. ix. Exercises, x. Latin. ii. Year. 2nd Class in " Hellenic School." iii. Year. 3rd Class in " Hellenic School." iv. Year. 1st Class in the " Gymnasium." v. Year. " Gymnasium." vi. Year. Lower 6th Class in " Gymnasium." vii. Year. Upper 6th Class in " Gymnasium." i. Conclusion of arithmetic and algebra, ii. Syntax- second part. iii. Ancient Greek. Demosthenes De Corona. Speeches of Thucydides. Muses of Herodotus, 2nd Class in the ^ with reading aloud. Specialties of Ionic dialect, iv. Com- position, v. French, vi. Physics, vii. History of Middle Ages not in epitome, viii. Church history, ix. Exercises. x. Latin. i. Algebra to end, and geometry, ii. Metrical instruc- tion, as in heroics, &c. iii. Ancient Greek : Homer's Iliad and Odyssey; Theocritus, Idylls and Epigrams, with viva voce reading. Specialties of Doric dialect, iv. Composi- tion, v. French, vi. Psychology, vii. Roman history, viii. Ecclesiastical history, ix. Exercises, x. Latin. C i. Geometry up to end. ii. Metrical instruction : Iambic 1 metre, &c. iii. Ancient Greek tragedies of ,/Eschylus, I Sophocles, and Euripides ; one or two odes of Pindar ; remains of Alcaeus, Sappho : reading aloud. Specialties of the JEolic dialect, iv. French, v. Modern history in extenso. vi. Epitome of logic, vii. *O>jyr)T/?c;fj rf Hponai- viii. Christian ethics, ix. Exercises, x. Latin. 38 physical science. The course extends over seven years, and no pupil is admitted until he can read and write correctly from dictation, and work sums in the first four rules of arithmetic. The school has two divisions : the upper division is called the " Gymna- sium," and is intended for pupils in the last four years of their course ; the lower is called the " Hellenic School," and corresponds with the first three years of study. The whole school collectively is called the " Evangelical School " of Smyrna. With the excep- tion of a registration fee of two francs for the lower and four for the upper school, the education is gratuitous. The institution is supported partly by the endowments it possesses in the shape of houses and landed property, partly by an annual allowance from the above-mentioned common fund of the Greek community. The head master (Ateufluvrrjc) receives a salary of 2,000 piastres per month, i.e. nearly 200/. per annum. The two masters next in rank to him are required to possess certificates, from the Gymnasia in the kingdom of Greece, of having passed through the entire course of study there and the final exami- nations. In all there are seven masters, and a general rule forbids them to take any of the scholars as their private pupils ; the number of pupils is upwards of 250. There is a good library in connexion with the school, which is provided with all the Greek news- papers and periodicals, and is at all times open to the stranger either to inspect or use. Considerable pro- minence is given, as a reference to the programme will show, to the study of the ancient Greek writers, and this, in combination with other causes, is rapidly bringing back the spoken language to the purity of the ancient standard. The best modern editions of the old authors are used in the school, and a con- siderable demand exists for them, as the booksellers' shops will show. It is right to add that owing to the general interest felt for and the eagerness to obtain education prevalent among the Greek population, this institution is in a creditable state of efficiency, and may bear a comparison with analogous establish- ments in other countries. It is under the protection of the British Government, and Her Britannic Majesty's **.* 2 consul is the ultimate referee in all disputes which may arise. Within the same walls as the Greek college and other schools the richly endowed church of St. Photeina, with hich all these institutions are connected, there are veral other schools of more humble pretensions. There is a girls' school and two infants' schools, all of which are in good working order. In all there are within the precincts upwards of 1,000 scholars of one age or another receiving gratuitous instruction. There is an infant school for boys attached to the church of St. John, in which there are 150 pupils of the age of from 5 to 12. The education here also is gratuitous, and the revenues of the school are fur- nished from those of the church of St. Photeina. The black-board and chalk is in use there as elsewhere pretty universally in Greek schools. The 'EAA>JVIXOV (r^oAstov attached to the church of St. John was shut up when we visited the place ; the necessity for it having been superseded by the Evangelical school. The firls' school in the precincts of St. John's Church had 'om 72 to 100 pupils at the times of our visits ; they were mostly under the age of 14. The mistress received 300 piastres per month, 20/. per annum, from the revenues of St. Photeina. There is another school for boys within the walls of the Greek hospital. All these schools are open to all classes. Many of the daughters of the richer Greeks go to a school kept by some Prussian lay sisters, whose instructions are of great value, and who educate many of the upper classes of the various nations in Smyrna. As a general rule the Greek lady is tolerably well informed, and can converse with spirit and intelligence upon many topics, but almost invariably she is animated and interesting when the prospects or past history of her nation are made the subject of discussion. Though many of the villagers can neither read nor write, it is rare to find a Greek born in Smyrna destitute of these accomplishments. It is common to see an announcement in the Greek newspapers, to the effect that such and -such a Greek merchant or lady resident in London, Marseilles, or 40 Greek news- papers. Newspapers. Manchester, has left or presented so many thousand pounds to this or that school. The Greek of the present day emulates the munificence so largely dis- played towards educational institutions by the Turk in his early days of greatness. Of the educational development of the middle class of any population, the character of their favourite journals may be taken as a tolerably good indication. Of the four newspapers published in Smyrna, three are Greek, and one French. Of the three Greek, one, the " Amalthea," is a journal of considerable pretensions ; the other two, the " Star of the East " and the " Prometheus," the latter only recently set on foot, are inferior in size, execution, and respectability. They are all weekly papers, but the " Amalthea " generally publishes a supplement on some interme- diate day, giving any fresh intelligence which may have arrived. It is of the same size as most of the Parisian daily papers, and as literary compositions and as political essays, its leaders are much more nearly on a level with those of the French papers than these are with those of their contemporaries in London. The first page is generally nearly entirely filled with leading articles alone. The paper devotes a large portion of its space to long extracts from the different European journals to which we frequently find the titles, 'O Xpovos, or 6 c Eco9<vo 5 - Ta^u^o//^, for the English ; 6 Myjvurcop, Ol* >j 'E<prj/Jt,=p$ TMV ^t/^rrja-f^v, for the French ; and rj "Apxros and >j AveafT>j<r/a B=Ayj*>;, for the Belgian newspapers. It has its own correspondents in the Levantine towns, but for other news it depends upon foreign journals. It always furnishes a very complete summary of the news of the week, and in this, as in every other particular, is far superior to any other paper published in Turkey. Every number of the " Amalthea " contains the commercial intelligence of the week, and also advertisements of certain English quack medicines ; considerable, though not entire, liberty of the press is allowed. The price of the paper varies from 2 piastres (4J.) without, to 3 pias- tres (6</.) with a supplement. We have given extracts from this paper in the Appendix, p. 111-119, which will at once illustrate the character of the 41 journal, and afford information on several topics of interest in the East. We shall estimate still higher the intellectual Books. activity of the Smyrniote Greek, if we take into our consideration the number of Greek books which are imported into Smyrna from Syra and Athens, as well as those which are printed in Smyrna itself. Of this latter class many are volumes of original poems or plays, or translations from the French or other novelists ; the former furnishes us with specimens of books of every class, and on every subject. There are several founts of Greek type in Smyrna, and amongst them there is one which may vie for clear- ness and beauty with the founts of Leipsic, Zurich, or Oxford. There is a large club belonging to the Greek com- Greek club. munity, which is called the Greek casino, or rpuixixy but which exactly corresponds in purpose and intenton to the English " club." It has a fine suite of rooms, and is much frequented throughout the winter months. There are six Greek churches in Smyrna, and an Churches. archbishop and bishop. The priests have consider- Hierarchy. able influence over the lower classes, who are tolerably scrupulous in the performance of what they hold to be their religious duties. The Greek hierarchy does much to foster the feelings of dislike which their flock entertains towards the Turk and the Roman Catholic, but their influence does not extend to the better edu- cated portion of the population, nor their exertions to any attempt at really elevating the religious feel- ings of the lower orders. There are many scandalous instances of immorality to be found amongst the Greek clergy, and as a body it is exceedingly illiterate and ignorant. The Greek calendar contains a great number of Saints' days. saints' days, and all of them are kept as holidays. As their calendar does not correspond with that of the Roman Catholics, who also have many feast days, and observe them as such, suspension of business, more or less complete, for the purposes of recreation, is more common in Smyrna than perhaps in any other town in the world. 42 Their churches, as buildings, have an unimposing exterior, but their interior is covered with offerings and resplendent with gold and silver gilding. They contain numerous pictures of the Trinity, of the Virgin and the Saints, especially St. George ; but no images nor any musical instruments. A considerable number of Greeks belong to the Roman Catholic, but scarcely any to the Protestant Church. Jewish. Numbers. There is a numerous colony of Jews in Smyrna, as many, it is not improbable, though uncertain, as 1 7,000 ; and, owing to the comparative liberty and immunity from oppression which they here enjoy, their numbers are rapidly increasing. The Smyrniote Jew is easily distinguishable from the other races with which he is here intermingled, his personal appearance being most marked, though it is different from that with which we are familiar in his brethren Appearance. m England. He is generally tall, almost always fair- haired, with light and frequently blue eyes, a straight Expression. nose, and an effeminately white skin. The expres- sion in his countenance, though not suggestive of oppression, yet denotes acquiescence in subordina- tion ; he seems to have bowed his shoulder to bear, and his mind to the adoption of slavish thoughts and artifices. Jews are to be seen in every town in the Mediterranean, and it is worthy of remark, that though they differ very much in physical development, as their Polish, Italian, or Spanish origin would lead us to anticipate, their physiognomical expression is every- where the same. The Jew in Jerusalem is a Polish Jew ; he is short of stature, and wears long curls of black hair, forming thus a very complete contrast to the Smyrniote Jew ; yet so truly identical is the ex- pression on the countenances of the two representa- tives of the race, that a stranger, familiar only with the Smyrniote variety, would on entering Jerusalem instantly recognize the nationality of the first Jew he met. The same remarks may be applied to the cases of the Jews of Egypt and Morocco. The identity extends, however, deeper than the expression of coun- 43 Ot( fail *. tenance ; the moral character and hygienic condition character. of the Jew is the same in all the different parts of the Levant. The vilest trades and the filthiest portions of each town are always in the hands of Jews. They as prone to deceit and fraud as the most deceitful f other nations, but they lack their enterprise and il of attaining their success. There are in Smyrna Poverty. few wealthy Jews ; the rich Jews are not very rich, whilst the poor are very poor. The condition of the poorer Jews in Smyrna is more abject than that of the poor of any other nationality residing here ; their wellings are more crowded, their streets more dirty, ,nd their diet worse. Yet in Smyrna considerable indemnities have been secured to the Jew by certain firmans granted him when he was driven out of Spain by the persecution of the Inquisition. He is not molested by the Turk, and is on the same footing, as regards taxation, with the dominant race. But what- ever insults the Greek receives at the hand of the Turk are transmitted by him to the Jew, and at seasons of religious excitement, such as the Greek Easter, it is unsafe for a Jew to be seen near the Greek quarter. Their means for education are small ; they possess Educational here a few wretched schools, and it is our experience deficienc 3 r * that the proportion of Turkish women who can read and write is larger than that of the Jewish. Their wants in this respect are so great throughout the Levant as to have attracted the attention of their wealthier brethren in Europe, and within the present year, 1856, we have met with Jewish agents travelling with the view of inspecting and reporting upon the condition of their schools in the East. They speak among themselves a mixture of Turkish and Spanish. Many, however, of the Jews act as brokers to the English merchant vessels which enter this port, and they speak English more fluently and with a better accent than any other race of foreigners in the Levant. They have not adopted European costumes to any great extent, and they possess here absolutely no political consideration or influence. 44 Resemblance to the Jews. Unlike them in other points. Appearance. Numbers. Merchants. See pp. 30 and 86. Armenian. The Armenian nation resembles the Jewish in several particulars. Both nations have for ages acquiesced in political subordination to a variety of masters ; both are almost always found employed as merchants, bankers, or tradesmen ; botrl are scattered throughout a large portion of the globe in pursuit of these callings ; and, lastly, both have alike obtained a character for chicanery and unfair dealing while thus employed. In the East the Armenian contrasts with the Jewish nation by its greater material prosperity and mercantile importance, by its adoption of Euro- pean costumes and manners, and by its physical peculiarities. In external appearance, the Armenian more nearly resembles the European races than any other Asiatic people does, and occasionally it is difficult even for a practised eye to distinguish an Armenian of the upper classes from a Greek in the same rank of life. The Armenian face is slightly more oval than the Greek, and the nose is elevated somewhat beyond the line of the frontal bone, and is not unfrequently arched. The development of their limbs, hands, feet, and lips, agrees with the European type. There are in Smyrna 10,000 Armenians, who have been settled here for 250 years ; the greater part are Turkish subjects, but there are amongst them a few Russians. In Smyrna there are very few poor Armenians, and as a general rule they are well edu- cated and intelligent. The quarter of the town in which they live contrasts favourably with most of the others by the cleanliness and straightness of its streets, the whiteness of its houses, and the large size of its doors and windows. Mercantile enterprize, both as regards exports and imports, distinguishes the Armenian race, and in con- junction with Greek merchants, they employ a con- siderable number of English steam ships, which make up what is called " the Greek line," and ply between Liverpool, Constantinople, Smyrna, and Alexandria. 45 Banking also is a branch of commerce very commonly carried on by Armenians, and those thus occupied are frequently amongst the richest subjects of the Turkish empire. The political sympathies of many of the Arme- Sympathy "with nians are with Russia, in whose territories the head Russla - of their church, and a large proportion of their fellow countrymen reside. But it is to be observed, this predilection is not founded on any aspirations after political independence, but merely on a natural preference of security and ease to the reverse state of things. In origin, therefore, at least, the Armenian's liking for Russia contrasts strongly with the Greek's. The Armenians, however, particularly distinguished themselves by the rejoicings they made on the occa- sion of the illuminations after the taking of Sebas- topol, and though they have a well-earned character for deceitfulness, it is difficult to disbelieve them they say, that they love best the nation which rill best secure them from insult in social, and injustice in commercial dealings. Their wishes are not patriotic, but self-interested ; they desire merely a change of masters, a civilized in the place of a barbarous one, a strong in the place of a weak government. A very rancorous feeling exists between the ni-feeiing to Armenian and the Greek populations, springing, so far Greeks - as we have observed, from commercial jealousies, and not from religious antipathy. We have found in places such as Magnesia, where the Armenian is far outnumbered by the Greek race, that the Armenian will often disown his nationality before a stranger, and strive to pass himself off as a Greek or Roman Catholic Raya. Though this is a common occurrence in the interior, it never came under our observation in Smyrna or any other seaport town, where the Armenians form generally an important fraction of the moneyed world. The great mass of Armenians here belong to Church and their own national church ; there are, however, a few education - Roman Catholics among them, and the missionaries of the Protestant churches have been more successful with this than with any other nationality in Smyrna. 46 The Armenian church has an archbishop in Smyrna, and they have nearly completed the building of a large church, which forms a conspicuous object even amongst the numerous mosques of the town. As a body they are well educated. They have several schools in Smyrna, and a college in which the modern languages and other branches of a liberal education are taught gratis. They have printing presses in many of the chief towns of Europe, though not in Smyrna, and their maps and books possess every typographical excellence. They have recently established a school for girls, in addition to their previously existing boys' schools. Numbers. Political in- fluence. French support lent to Catholic institutions. Roman Catholic. There are in Smyrna from 7,000 to 8,000 Roman Catholics ; some are Rayahs, but a large pro- portion enjoy the protection of some one of the European consuls. There are few of them in the labouring class. Most of the shops in the Frank street belong to Roman Catholics, either themselves emigrants, or, what is more common, the descendants of emigrants from France and Italy. Many, also, of the chief mercantile houses in Smyrna belong to members of the same class. Theypossess considerable political influence, as assiduous attention is paid to their interests by the representatives of the two great Catholic powers. Considerable sums of money are contributed by the French Government towards the support of the numerous Roman Catholic schools here. It is owing to this that the French language has become so much more generally spoken here within the last two years, but, though a Smyrniote Catholic will generally address a stranger in French, he much more commonly, not only in business, but also within his own family, makes use of the Romaic language. Besides their large Propaganda College, the Catholics possess several other schools where the education is gratuitous, and all forms of faith are admitted. The teachers are French monks, and on festival days the French flag is hoisted over most of these institutions. 47 The monks of Syria and Palestine are, it may be remarked, on the contrary, generally Italians. The general scope and aim of the Catholic seminaries and Object aimedat, religious establishments in the East may be illustrated y the following notice of one of their institutions in Alexandria, which we quote from a handbook to the coasts of the Mediterranean issued at a steam-boat office : " Les Soeurs de la Charite, ces dignes filles de Saint Vincent de Paul, possedent a Alexandrie une maison de leur ordre ; elles elevent gratuitement une grande quantite de jeunes filles indigenes, auxquelles outre les travaux de leur sexe, elles apprennent d aimer la France en leur en enseignant le langage. La devouees comme partout, elles ont cree un hopital, dans lequel elles admettent sans distinction de religion tout etre soufFrant ; c'est un veritable apostolat qu'elles exercent, et la France est peutelre appelee un jour d recueillir le fruit de leur devou- The conduct of the Roman Catholic priests con- Romish priests trasts favourably with that of the Greek, both as and churches. regards the discharge of his duties and his own private morality. There are several Roman Catholic churches in Smyrna, and two of them are conspi- uous and striking edifices. The poorer class of Catholics do not possess so Poor, fine a physical development as the Greeks, and the upper classes copy as closely as they can Parisian costumes and manners. It is rare for a Catholic to intermarry with a Greek family, and the priests employ all the means in their power to prevent such unions from taking place. The Levantine Casino is a club of similar character to the Greek, and its members are principally Catholics. There are two or three hotels in Smyrna kept by Hotels and Catholics. At one of them the daily charge was Lod s in s s - two Spanish pillar dollars (colonnatas), i.e. a little over 9s. The town is also sufficiently Europeanized to possess several boarding houses, one of which at least contrasts favourably with the hotels both in charges and comfort. 48 Furnished apartments are also to be got both in the Frank and Greek quarters, and for these the English paid sums varying from I/, to 21. 10s. per month. In these points Smyrna contrasts with most towns in Turkey, but she differs from every other in having every house in every street numbered. Protestant. Wealth of Pro- The number of Protestants in Smyrna is about 2,000. Many of them are English, but some are Dutch, and some Americans. To this class many of the wealthiest commercial houses in Smyrna be- long. The greater number of the Protestant popula- tion are of European birth, and all are under the protection of the British, or Dutch, or American consulates. Like the Roman Catholics, the Protes- tant races have chapels and hospitals in connexion with the several consulates, but as there are few poor amongst them, the hospitals are chiefly devoted to the use of the mercantile marines of the different nations. Club. A club, the European Casino, is in great measure supported by this, as the Levantine by the other sec- Country houses, tion of European settlers. The richer merchants of all the nationalities in Smyrna have country houses in the villages in its neighbourhood, but a larger proportion of them belongs, perhaps, to the members of the Protestant races than of any others. The villages of Bournabat and Boudja are the principal centres for the summer residences of the Smyrna merchants, but some are also to be found at Sedikioi. The merchants come into the town eveiy morning from these places throughout the summer months and return in the evening. The arrangements in these summer residences are copied exactly from the models furnished by houses built for analogous purposes in Europe. 49 LANGUAGES. Turkish is spoken by a large proportion of the Turkish.^ inhabitants of Smyrna ; the Turks, who by themselves form nearly one-third of the entire population, speak it, with few exceptions, even amongst the highest classes, almost exclusively ; and a knowledge of, and familiarity with, the language, is generally possessed by every business man of the other races. For commercial purposes the Italian and French French and languages are much employed ; but the use of I French is becoming more, and that of Italian less general. The "Lloyd Smyrneen " appears three days a week, but the " Nunzio Commerciale " only three times a month. See Appendix, p. 107- There are many families in Smyrna who have immigrated from the coasts of the Adriatic, and to whom Italian is consequently the most familiar tongue ; but we never met with any Smyrniote who could speak Italian and Italian only, although it is easy to find either a Frenchman or a Greek or a Turk, who speak nothing but their own native dia- lects. This will illustrate the relative preponderance of the several languages. The use of French is be- coming more general, owing in great measure to the numerous Roman Catholic schools under the patronage of the French Government in which French is taught gratuitously. It is to be remarked that though an European will almost invariably find him- self addressed in French whenever he enters a shop in Smyrna, the shopman, even though he be a Roman Catholic, and only one generation removed from a native born Frenchman, will give all his orders to his assistants in Romaic. The same thing is con- stantly to be observed in Roman Catholic families ; though to the European visitor French is spoken, the affairs of daily life are all carried on by means of Greek. English is spoken by a considerable number of the English not merchants of all nationalities, but by very few of the lower orders. There is in Smyrna no school for the poor. poorer classes in which English is taught. There is D Eelation of Romaic to ancient Greek. The languages as written. an institution of this kind in Jerusalem supported by voluntary contributions, and small as the population of that city is, it contains a more numerous native population speaking English than Smyrna, which is about fifteen times larger. There are, however, a, considerable number of Jews who hang about the bazaars and act as brokers to the English merchant ships, who speak English with a fair accent and pos- sess a vocabulary quite sufficient for all common purposes. Amongst themselves the Jews speak a corrupt mixture of Spanish and Turkish. The Armenian language is spoken by very few who do not belong to that nationality. It will be useful to the great mass of educated Englishmen to know in what way their somewhat toilsomely acquired knowledge of ancient Greek may help them towards speaking, writing, and under- standing the modern Romaic. An acquaintance with a language spoken along nearly the whole extent of the Mediterranean and Black Sea coasts by an enterprising mercantile nation will be seen at once to be a valuable accomplishment, and by no one can it be acquired at a less cost of time and trouble than by the Englishman of average education. Closely related as Italian is to the ancient Latin language, Romaic is much more nearly identical with the ancient Greek. The inflexions of the modern Greek are the same, with a few exceptions, as those of the ancient; the accents are the same ; and there is no doubt in our minds that Greek as spoken by the educated Athenian of 430 B.C. would at once be understood by the upper classes of the modern Romaic population. As regards the languages as written, we may take the official translation of the late Hatti Houmayoum, of February 1856, as an authoritative document and standard for the comparison of the two. Now the whole of this document is perfectly intelligible to the scholar who is moderately familiar with ancient Greek, and the differences as seen from his point of view are merely the few following : i. For the old word ou, oux, oux="not," we use in 51 modern Greek the word 0ev, shortened from ouSev, but, whilst employing ouSsv thus, with a force somewhat different from its ancient usage, we substitute a fresh word, xaveis, xa^ufa, xavlv, for it in its pristine employ- ment as = " none." ii. The word va, from the ancient <W, is employed nearly as extensively as the conjunction "that" in English, more extensively therefore than *m in the old Greek, which = " that " when denoting a purpose, and to a certain extent coinciding in use with the infinitive as employed in that language. iii. The use of auxiliary verbs in the futures and perfects where we have inflexions in the old language: *X M yp4>** y 'y a( P*j I have written ; 0e'xsi x>j^>j=r XYJ^O-STM. It is in this combination almost exclusively that the old infinitive survives ; the dual number has wholly vanished, and in the Hatti ScherifF, as in common conversation, no trace of a dative case is to be found. iv. Lastly, the following words and combinations of words which we find in this official translation are from one reason or another alien to the ancient Greek idiom : (,) pi with an accusative, as=" with," like with a genitive in the old language, ps TW c-uvfyopjv = ' with the concurrence." (|3.) TTO with an accusative instead of a genitive. This is not universal, though general ; we find ano Yipepotf el$ rj/xlpav in the Hatti Scheriff, as Well as a?ro T>/V xu/3=pv>j"nxrjv yX(i(r<rav. (7.) The word axo'pj= u encore," <tyjxaviQv==" fir- man," xAa<n$ = " class," x^xu&o=" codify." The differences between the two varieties of the Greek language will seem to be very few when they are referred to this standard for comparison ; -but that it is a fair standard, and authoritative at least in this point of view, will be clear when we consider,. 1st. Its length. 2nd. That it was written expressly for the Greeks and read aloud publicly to them in all parts of the Turkish empire, and that no other trans- lation than this, the official one, was allowed to be published. D 2 52 There are, however, a few other points of contrast between the Greek and the Romaic as written, which we cannot illustrate from this document. (.) The constant use of diminutive forms in modern Greek :" 4/ovwov " = "bread;" " T yp/ov"= "cheese." A modern Greek grammarian, while noticing this peculiarity, quaintly enough connects it with the diminution of political influence under which his race has so long suffered. (/3. ) A slavish following of western turns of thought Borrowing and expression, as well as of western words. Everyone western idioms, w yj gee t k at ^^ ag ex p ress } n g the results and the working of the PRINTING machine, is a more vivid and better word for the thing than wiso-r^ta, the PRESSING machine, where we have merely its mechanical struc- ture brought before us. Yet, save among the better educated Greeks, the latter word is used by prefer- ence. In numberless instances where the western languages employ to express a certain idea a phrase infinitely less apt than that furnished by the old Greek, the modern Greeks have chosen to follow the inferior and foreign idiom, so that, in reading the Romaic, one is often reminded of the unidiomatic literal translations which the schoolboy makes with the aid of a lexicon. In cases, again, where the western languages have only one word to express several different ideas or different modifications of one idea, whilst the ancient Greeks had separate words corresponding to each variation in the thought, the modern Greeks have frequently chosen one of these words and widened its application until it has become co-extensive and equally inaccurate with the western expression. rwp/$a>, in modern Greek, is used as equivalent both to yvp%oo and c-rptpco in ancient Greek ; the modern Greek thus copy- ing the western nations in having only one word to express the several meanings of the word " turn." Romaic as written has borrowed fewer words than Western words. Romaic as spoken from the foreign languages. These words are borrowed from the Latin, the Italian, and the Turkish principally, but the better educated writers make day by day less use of them, and, under the influence of the purist reaction (xaflapio-jao? 7% at present at work, they will shortly become 53 obsolete. We give the following instances :- = " house," from the Latin hospitium ; a&upict. = "avaries," injuries, from the French ; <rsipiav%a> "to go into the country," from the Turkish. Romaic as spoken may be compared with the ancient Romaic as Greek either as spoken in ancient Greece or as pro- spohen ' nounced and read "in the modern fashion introduced by Erasmus. To guide us as to the ancient pronun- Ancient Greek ciation of ancient Greek, we have : { Greece"^ (i.) The writings of Greek grammarians, who, however, seldom refer to any other language than their own. (ii.) The alliterations and imitations of unchange- able sounds to be found commonly in Aristophanes, and also scattered through other writers, as, e.g., the oracle given, Thucyd. ii. cap. 54. for 01 and . (iii.) The adaptation of Greek words into other languages, and vice versa, as, e.g., the transformation of the Greek Aufllvt*]? into Effendi. Such an investigation would be misplaced here, but we have said enough to indicate the line of research which will lead to the conclusion, probable also on geographical and historical grounds, that the language spoken by the ancient Greeks was pronounced much in the same way as that spoken by their descendants inhabiting the same countries. But leaving a comparison where we may be thought Romaic as to be explaining obscurum per obscurius, we will ^^ ka state the differences between the Greek pronounced pronounced^ by the English scholar and the Greek uttered by England. the modern Greek himself. There are practically no diphthongs in Romaic, and deference to the accents, and not to quantity, regulates the pronunciation of each single word. In a Greek letter written by one of the ill-edu- cated, no diphthong (save ou=" oo" in " good") will ever be found; w="af" or " av," and eu="ef" or "ev," see above (iii.), and the rest being pronounced as in French, will be found represented by or I or r. Taking bad spelling a second time as an index to pronunciation, we can show from it the predominance that considerations of accent have over considerations of quantity. The half-educated Greek spells yp>jTe, 54 the second person plural of the subjunctive, in the same way as yp<p=Tc of the indicative, and he pro- nounces both words as we pronounce the latter of the two. And it is not very easy to catch the difference between the two words, even when uttered by a well- educated Greek, as it lies in an almost imperceptible dwelling upon and lengthening out of the second syllable. The rules of accentuation are the same for a Romaic as for the ancient Greek, and a thorough acquaintance with accents, and a pronunciation strictly in accordance with them, will enable any Greek scholar who knows the modern force of the letters of the alphabet, to make himself understood by any Greek of the upper classes, and to understand their replies to him. The same would not be the case were he to address himself to one of the lowest classes ; but the reasons for this would be analogous to the reasons which prevent the upper classes of the south of England from understanding the dialect of the Yorkshire miner; and it would not be because the two extremes of society used a radically different language. In two classes of words only is there any deviation from the ancient system of accentuation to be observed, and this deviation is confined to the uneducated; the aorist active is occasionally pro- nounced by the poorer Greeks as it is pronounced by the English schoolboy ; " e7ra.x>jo-"= a I sold," is pro- nounced as if it were written I^K^OL ; and the same is the case with nouns like a\tfsia and euyeWa ; they are occasionally pronounced as though they were written aAvj^/a and ^ysvWa, and belonged to the same class of nouns as SoyXs/a and CLIMATE. Smyrna lies in lat. N.38 25' 36", long. E. 27 6' 45". Conditions more forcibly affecting its climate are furnished by the character of the mountains surround- ing it, and the extent of cultivated soil and of forest land in its immediate neighbourhood. 55 There are no mountains in the neighbourhood of Mountains not Smyrna like those which run along the whole of the mmoca PP* southern coast of Asia Minor, and preserve on their summits a covering of eternal snow. The highest peak within two days' journey of Smyrna does not attain a height of 3,500 feet, and it is seldom, even in winter, covered with snow for more than two days together. Immunity from those sudden alternations to snow- chilled mountain winds from blazing heat, which are so common and so injurious, not only in the parts of Asia Minor just mentioned, but in places like Florence and Montpellier in southern Europe, is in conse- quence enjoyed in Smyrna. The valleys in this part of Asia Minor are very cultivation, generally cultivated and covered with verdure during wide * the spring, autumn, and winter months, though con- siderably burnt up and parched from the middle of June to the end of August. But at all times the eye finds abundance of vegetation to rest upon in the green foliage of the fig and pomegranate, and the glaucous leaves of the olive, the cultivation of which contributes, though in a less degree than that of corn crops, to the opening and breaking up of the soil. Extensive sheets of wood land are to be seen in Abundant the vicinity of Smyrna, either stretching along the WOO<L sides or clothing the summits of the mountains. This condition, however, is common to the greater part of Asia Minor, in spite of the extensive use made of charcoal, and it is a most important co-efficient in the constitution of climate. The hot season in Smyrna commences with the Hot season. month of June, and begins to lose its intensity towards the end of August. At this time the ther- mometer will often indicate a heat of from 80 Fahr. to 90 Fahr. in the shade, whilst on the other hand, we have often found it a difficulty, within the period from the middle of January to the middle of March, to keep up a constant temperature of 60 Fahr. in a sick room day and night. In the open air the thin ice formed during the night generally thawed before 10 A.M., and the thermometer never indicated so low 56 Thermometric register in Appendices, pp. 90-102. The Inbat. a temperature as 32 for the whole period of the twenty-four hours. A thermometrical register will be found in the Appendix pp. 90-102, extending from March 6, 1855, to August 20. In it the winter months January and February are not included, and the lowest tempera- ture it records is 53^, March 17, 1855. As the mention of ice already made would lead one to infer, a much lower temperature than this is not unusual, and we have seen the thermometer remain nearly stationary at 45 for some days together, even at milder times. The greatest variation which this register records for any one day is one of 6f, March 25, 8 A.M., from 60| to 67^ at 2.30 P.M. The same amount of variation is recorded for the succeeding day also, from 63^ at 8 A.M. to 70 at 4.45 P.M. The month of April is remarkable for the small amount of variation in the amounts recorded for each day, whilst the temperature of the whole month varies from 55^, the lowest, to 65, the highest temperature. Rapid changes of temperature, as may be seen from the notices of the weather appended to the several records, foretell at Smyrna as elsewhere the coming of a storm ; 70 is recorded from March 26th, but does not occur again until May the 6th, when we find 73^ recorded ; 80 occurs only once in the month of May, and that on the last day of the month, where we find 82|, and though not attained on any day between June 5 and 15, it is a common number for the rest of that month. 90 we find on the following days; July 13, July 24, 90; July 25, 90^; July 26, 91 August 4, 90f . The heat of the season appears to culminate about the second week in August, and the heat of each day between 4.0 and 5.0 P.M. The sea, which in all places and in so many ways influences climate, especially favours that of Smyrna by the breeze here called the Inbat, which springs up every afternoon during the hot season. So soon as the heat of the sun has had time to produce the difference, which by the laws of heat it does, in favour of the atmosphere covering the land, the cooler and 57 denser sea breeze rushes in upon the hotter and more rarified land air, bearing with it freshness and moisture. This breeze is popularly called " The Doctor of Smyrna," so universally are its vivifying powers recognized. In the hot weather it is very seldom that a day passes in which the Inbat fails, and this great regularity is to be ascribed possibly to the peculiar disposition of the mountains around the gulph, which, standing on either side the bay's entrance like two great portals, sweep away and enclose in a semicircular wall the town, the mari- time plain, and the inland expanse of the bay itself. The land breeze, on the other hand, blows frequently in the night time, and is a dry shrivelling wind. It further resembles the bise of Southern France by the quarter, the north, from which it blows. Whilst on the subject of climate, we may take Abundance of occasion to say that, though snow is never to be seen covering the tops of the mountains in the hot weather, it nevertheless can be preserved there in pits properly covered over and protected from the external air by layers of brushwood, &c. A large store of snow is compressed and hardened in these pits during the winter, and throughout the summer it is sold in Smyrna at a price which puts it within the reach of the poorest ; 1 piastre per oke = 2^ Ibs., for 2rf. ice in summer. MEDICAL NOTES. Whatever prejudices may exist as to the health!- Prejudices ness of Smyrna, a residence in it for more than a a 9 ainst Smyrna twelvemonth enables us to speak of it as a place favourable to the preservation of the mental and bodily vigour of the European immigrant and his descendants, and as possessing an indigenous popu- lation as well conditioned as regards both longevity and physical development as any other town of equal size. It cannot be said that any one season of the year is especially unhealthy, nor that this country is obnoxious to the influences of special disease not to be found elsewhere in the Levant/ 58 The plague now The plague has not made its appearance here t* tingany ~ since the year 1836-1837, and it is believed not to exist at present in any part of the world. It may not unreasonably be hoped that this fearful scourge will never again be met with ; for in all the cases of its visitation it seems to have pursued the course of those specific poisons which propagate themselves by contact, which spread rapidly under favourable con- ditions, but which are not generated sporadically by malaria, miasma, nor decomposing organisms ; which, in one word, are incapable of spontaneous generation. There is no doubt in our minds that this disease, when devastating this part of the world, spread itself from person to person by corporeal contact only, and not by any gaseous exhalation from sources of infection. For, Contagious at (i.) Those Europeans who shut themselves up in Smyrna not their own houses, and maintained a strict quarantine, invariably escaped the pest. And we have been told that during the whole visitation of 1836 and 1837 only three Europeans fell victims to the plague, (ii.) Those whose avocations led them to the town, which at that time was almost deserted, so long as they avoided actually touching a compromised per- son, even though they came within a few feet of a man dying of the disease, still enjoyed an entire immunity from it. (iii.) The Turks and Jews who neglected all these precautions suffered out of all proportion more than the Franks. This is the more remarkable when we find that no such comparative immunity was enjoyed by the Franks in the several visitations of cholera. (iv.) The oil-carriers, whose skins are thoroughly imbued with oil, and consequently less apt to imbibe poisons, were, though Turks, and as such fatalisti- cally negligent, exempted from the disease. A similar observation has been made in Egypt as to the cases of soap-boilers and chimney-sweepers, whose exemption would be ascribed to the same causes as that of the oil-carriers. We may remark that the history given in books of the plague in Egypt differs in several particulars from the account we gathered on the spot of the plague in Smyrna. pe (v.) Though we ourselves have had no experience of the disease, we are acquainted with many persons well competent to form an opinion on the matter, who, coming to this country with the prejudices of non-contagionists, have seen reason to adopt the opposite tenets, and to hold that, however impotent against other pests, quarantine regulations were of real use while such a disease as the plague existed. It has been observed that the epidemics of plague in Smyrna always ceased before a certain day in June, thus illustrating the general law (to which, however, exceptions are to be found) that a sustained tempera- ture of a certain height is incompatible with the exis- tence of diseases communicable from person to rson. Typhus is not indigenous in Smyrna. It was unknown to the resident practitioners until imported hither from the Crimea, and w r hen imported it did not spread beyond the walls of the British hospital. We have, however, seen reason to believe that that peculiar form of typhus fever which is called " ty- phoid," and is common in England, commoner in France, and commonest perhaps of all fevers in camps, may be generated here under an accumu- lation of conditions favourable to its birth. These conditions are those furnished by decompos- ing animal matters, especially night soil ; and, in this part of the world, are occasionally coupled with and intensified by malarious or terrestrial influences. We do not hold this form of fever to be as easily com- municable from person to person as its twin brother typhus is, and it contrasts with the same disease by its tendency to assume something of a remittent type, by its longer duration, by a peculiar rash, and by its superinducing special local lesion. It lasts as a fever for three weeks, that is to say, while on the one hand it is rare to observe any decided amelioration before that time has elapsed, on the other it is not uncommon to observe cases in which the patient sinks under the influence of the fever as opposed to the influence of its complications, even in the very last days of that space of time. And standing distinct in this particu- lar from typhus, it is easily distinguishable in the Continued fever. Typhoid not 60 same point of view from the other form of continued fever met with in this country, which is known as the bilious or the Mediterranean fever, and which often runs a fatal course within the short space of from four to five days. Of this form of fever as, though not remittent in form, yet arising from malarious influ- ences, we shall treat of under that head. A large per-centage of the deaths which occurred among the soldiers of the British Swiss Legion, whilst stationed at Smyrna, was due to " typhoid fever." This fever principally affected men of the battalion which came out in the steam transport " Ripon," which had been for a considerable time employed, without intermis- sion, as a troop ship, and which was, whatever the attention paid to cleanliness, somewhat overcrowded. Smallpox, Sfc. The exanthems, small pox, measles, and scarlet fever, are to be met with in Smyrna. Their character is, generally speaking, milder than that they bear in England. An epidemic of small pox has occurred this winter in Smyrna, the wide spread of which would lead one to infer that vaccination, though pretty general, had not been so extensively carried out as it ought to have been. No great mortality, however, was caused by the disease amongst the inhabitants of Smyrna ; we were told that three only had died in the Greek hospital, which is the largest in the town, and which had had a very large number of admissions. Out of the many cases of small pox which occurred among the soldiers of the British Swiss Legion, only one death took place. Malarious The diseases peculiar to this country are dependent diseases. upon malarious influences, and are not communicable from person to person. They vary in intensity from the intermittent up to that form of bilious fever which resembles the yellow fever of the West Indies in some points, and wears an entirely continued form. Locality. Places especially amenable to the influence of malaria are found to be the beds of streams, ravines, and situations exposed to land, and covered from sea breezes. But the most malarious of all localities are those where the sea has retired from the coast, and left in the place of shallow water a block of flat marshy wi T tl I 61 ,nd interposed between itself and a mountainous background. Such conditions are found to exist at Ephesus, where it is said that no European can sleep without contracting a fever; at Mersina, the seaport of "arsus, and Alexandretta, the seaport of Aleppo, whose reputation is, and deservedly, much worse than even that of Ephesus. By comparing the histories of the endemics in these three places, Ephesus, Mersina, nd Alexandretta (Scanderoon), we shall be able to ihow that the one effective condition for the genera- tion of malarious fever is not abundant vegetation, is not heat, is not marshy soil, nor any one season of the year, but marshy ground in the process ofdesicca- Efficient cause. tion under the influence of solar heat. At Ephesus, he worst season of the year is the spring and autumn ; at Mersina and Alexandretta, the months of July and August. At these two latter places, no one who can possibly avoid it, remains in the town for these two months, but retires, either inland to the moun- tains, or crosses to the island of Cyprus. This com- parison eliminates from our consideration the condition of the season of the year; and mere heat, Ephesus being as hot in July and August as either of the two others, and the condition of vegetation are likewise put out of the consideration, Ephesus being remarkably desti- tute of vegetation, and the other two pi aces remarkably rich in it. Mersina and Alexandretta, being under the snow-clad Taurus, have till the very middle of summer a plentiful supply of water from the thawing of the snow ; towards the end of May 1 856, May 22-23, we why is the un- found the streams in those localities to possess the health y season strength, volume, and muddiness of the Alpine torrent; "* Ephesus, on the other hand, has no such store of moisture to have recourse to, as her stock of winter and early spring rain evaporates under the rays of the returning sun, and. in consequence, she becomes un- healthy earlier in the year than they do. These three places, then, are differently conditioned, at the time of their producing one common effect, as to vegetation, season of the year, and temperature ; and the one con- dition common to all three is the existence in them of marshy ground nearly or quite exhausted of its 62 Parts of Smyrna Geography, pp. 9 and ,0. San Demetri na S ae healthy. So St. Anne. moisture by solar heat. The following story will serve to illustrate our meaning: At Tripoli in Syria, May 24th, 1856, we were cautioned by the Consul of a considerable European State, to avoid the mulberries which were just then ripening. His reason was not that they caused diarrhoea, or any other such disease, but that they produced the pernicious fever, and that the experience of every inhabitant showed that they did so at that time of the year. Logically viewed, this was an instance of that commonest of fallacies, " Post hoc, ergo propter hoc ;" scientifically interpreted, the popu- lar saying contains, as most popular sayings do, a certain amount of truth, and should be thus read. The sun has just got power enough to ripen the mulberries ; the marshy ground will be now just on the point of complete drying, and malaria, conse- quently, just in the prime of its strength. The part of Smyrna which is especially liable to malarious disease is that part which lies between " The Point" and the Caravan Bridge at the Northern Mount Pagus, which forms, in fact, the base of the triangle made up by the town, and comprehends the two region s known as San Demetri and San Catherjna> ' This we might have been led to expect, as this P art of Smyrna n 'es lower than any other, and is occasionally covered with water for a considerable extent of its surface, which is subsequently dried up by the sun's rays. The valley, however, through which the Meles flows as it winds under Mount Pagus, and before it reaches the Caravan Bridge, is more unhealthy than any part of Smyrna. There are only a few houses scattered here and there along its banks in this part of its course, and a residence in one of them, either in the spring or autumn, is nearly certain to superinduce an attack of fever. The men whose business it is to tend the leech ponds in this, the valley of St. Anne, are almost all of them obliged to be constantl} 7 on the spot day and night, and at all seasons of the year, to protect that valuable property from thieves, and they are in con- 63 14 sequence almost without an exception sufferers from country fever. The valley of St. Anne being a ver- dant and picturesque ravine, is at first sight as different as possible from such localities as Ephesus or Mersina, but a little consideration shows us that one common property exists in all these nests of malaria. The generalization made by the sufferers from ravine- bred fevers is, that fever and vegetation go together. This one is constantly told in such places. It admits of being explained in the same way as the equally empirical observation we have recorded as made to us at Tripoli. The Castle of Sanjac at the entrance So Castle of the bay is so thoroughly malarious, that the j Turkish Government have found it necessary to leave its fine barracks wholly unoccupied. It is built on a bar of gravel which lies between the sea on one aspect, and the alternately advancing and retreating edge of a marsh on the other, and it is therefore con- stantly exposed to the full action of the products of desiccating marshy ground. The times of the year at which the malarious Malarious fevers are most prevalent and powerful in Smyrna, times ' are the end of the summer and the autumn ; the spring fevers possess a milder character. Exposure in the open air during the hours of sleep to the land breeze which generally blows then, is a very common occasion for the development of the disease. People sleeping on a ground floor are observed to suffer from the fevers in a much greater ratio than those whose sleeping apartments are raised above the level of the ground. At Alexandretta, the inhabitants sleep in wooden cages elevated on poles to a height of from 10 to 12 feet above the earth. The badly nourished and clothed portion of the Subjects of population suffer to a greater proportional extent attack - from these as from most other diseases. In some of the guardhouses in the interior specimens of the most thorough malarious cachexia are to be found. The cavasses are wretchedly paid and fed, and at the same time are exposed in all seasons and in all locali- ties. They bear every mark of confirmed anaemia and persistent imperfection in hgematopoiesis. They have oedematous legs, cardiac murmurs, and that 64 peculiar dead-leaf yellow stain in certain parts of the skin which is invariably associated with spleen disease. i. intermittents. The intcrmittents of this country are controllable by quinine even in their most intense form ; but it is to be regretted that the great expense attending the use of this medicine in the large doses it is found necessary to give in malarious disorders, makes the poor, who need it most, least able to avail them- selves of it. A decoction of olive leaves (jij to Oij of water, to be boiled down to Oj), has been found to possess febrifuge properties of a certain value, and this remedy is in Asia Minor within reach of the poorest. All the vegetable bitters possess a certain efficacy in diseases of this class ; even centaury and cascarilla have been employed with some advantage in such cases. But it is by virtue of a certain chemical principle which it con- tains, the alkaloid quina, that the cinchona bark exercises its special control over malarious disorders, and of this the other vegetable bitters are destitute, and are, in consequence, to be regarded, not in the Remedies. light of specifics, but merely in that of palliatives to the disease, arid adjuvants to the vis medicatrix naturae. It has been supposed, or perhaps we should rather say, it has been hoped, that a chemical sub- stance analogous to quinine may be discovered in the leaves and bark of the olive tree, but as yet no decisive evidence has been brought forward on this point. The doses in which quinine is given by the practitioners of the country are gr. iv. gr. vi. every hour for four or five hours, or occasionally in 9j. doses. They have informed us that they do not give quinine until they see a well-marked intermission, and that they are confident of the wis- dom of their practice in giving such large quantities of the remedy from repeated experience of the utter inefficiency of smaller doses. Pernicious There is one variety of intermittent sometimes seen as an epidemic, especially after the rains of autumn, but also to be met with in the spring and summer, which bears the name of pernicious fever. In it there are three several accesses, the first and second com- paratively mild, but the third of such intensity as frequently to cause death either in the cold or hot stage of the fit. If, however, the patient be got under the influence of quinine while in the intermissions, we are told that he generally escapes with his life. The remittent is produced by the same causes which produce the intermitent when operating less, or a continued fever when operating more forcibly, and standing midway between the two, they both not unfrequently verge into it. Persons of all ages are liable to its attacks, but whilst middle aged persons are most liable, it is observed' here, as also elsewhere, that infantile ailments are very prone to take on a remittent type. The several races living together in Smyrna are found to suffer from it in the same pro- portion, and the rich only suffer less from its influence than the poor in so far as they are less exposed within its sphere of action. Cases of remittent fever occur at all periods of the year, but are most common in the spring and autumn. We are informed by the resident medical practitioners that they do not employ quinine to combat this form of fever when existing in full vigour as such, and in this point our own views are in complete accordance with theirs. The line of treatment which we think to be at once justifiable on rational grounds, and confirmed as bene- ficial by actual experience, is the following: The general inflammatory symptoms and the special local determinations are to be combated by depletory or evacuatory measures, and when this object is attained, and an alleviation of the symptoms amounting to an intermission observed, then we may make use of qui- nine to neutralize the special malarious poison which has produced the evil. But quinine is worse than useless until the constitutional disturbance and the local determinations met with in the remittent fever have been reduced to comparative tranquillity. We have reason to think that the condition of the nerve centres in the early stages of the remittent is such as to contra-indicate the use of quinine, even were the absorbing surface of the bowels in a fit state for taking up that medicine into the system. An intermittent fever is not generally complicated with special local Remittents. Remedies. 66 Complications. Continued fever of malarious origin. Called yellow fever, but not identical. i. Liability to dysentery after fever. lesion until the disease is of some standing, but in the remittent fever, where a much larger quantity of malarious poison may be supposed to be working within the system, complications of one kind or another are generally to be met with early in the course of the disease. Of these the most common is liver congestion and jaundice, and the Mediterranean remittent has, in consequence, got the name of" bilious remittent." The irritability of stomach so often to be met with in this fever points to a similar condition of that organ also. The more serious cases of remittent fever are prone to assume a continued form, especially those which are complicated with jaundice. Cases of this kind are sometimes called by the same name as the more virulent and more widely diffused fever of the West Indies, and it is the absence (which is not universal) of the black vomit and other results of hsemorrhagic action in a system where the blood is disorganized which principally distinguishes the yellow fever of the Mediterranean from that of the New World. The greatest number of cases of this kind which have occurred in one year in Smyrna is sixty, and in this point, that of the number of its victims, it contrasts strongly with its namesake. It occurs in the autumn, and seems to be produced by malarious influences, exasperated into peculiar malignancy by heat and other external conditions, and favoured by the previous operation of debilitating causes upon the subject they attack. Some of the resident medical practitioners hold this form of fever to be identical with the yellow fever of America, and to have been imported hither in American ships. They support their position by the assertion that this particular form of fever was unknown here till within the last thirty years, since which period the American trade has come into being here; we doubt alike premises and conclusion. There are two points of interest to be remarked upon as to the period of convalescence from these diseases. On recovery from any one of these several species of malarious fever, the patient is especially liable to attacks of dysentery, to which his imprudent indulgence of the calls of an appetite the more vigorous after a lengthened period of dormancy often .contributes not a little. It is often remarked that an eruption breaks out ii. Herpes laii- round the lips (herpes labialis) of a patient who has a ^' just recovered from a malarious fever. This pheno- menon is observed at the close of other than malarious disorders, but never after typhus or any other fever than those of malarious origin. We may here remark that we have observed a ten- Abuse ofqui- dency, not only in the practitioners who may be nme ' permanently resident in a malarious country, but also in those who may be temporarily stationed in such districts, to make use of quinine as if it were a panacea, and a remedy which may be safely employed in cases whose exact nature is for the moment obscure ; as if all disease occurring in a malarious country owned invariably a malarious origin. And besides the evil produced by the indiscriminate use of the drug, we would also notice the mischief which his faith in a specific often brings about, by causing the practitioner to be neglectful as to the carrying out of two most important indications, viz., strictness in diet and removal from the malarious locality. Lastly, it is a matter of vulgar remark here, as in Drunkards - most other countries, that the habitual drunkard, c $l a whatever other diseases he may bring upon himself, at all events escapes malarious fevers, even in spots the most notorious for the constancy and virulence of their pernicious influence. It is the popular belief that the regions of the Lung diseases. Mediterranean enjoy an almost total immunity from lung diseases ; and that it is much to the advantage of a phthisical subject from Northern Europe to change his residence for one in the sunny countries bordering this sea. The first of these propositions is the exact converse of the truth, and the same remark may be made with but a slight modification of the second. To deal with the latter of the two propositions 1. The Mediter- first. Some patients in whom consumption has been JBJJJST detected, while yet in an early stage, may have for consumptive received benefit from a sojourn in the Mediterranean pai countries, because, by such a course, they have secured to themselves the co-operation of the three E 2 68 most powerful coadjutors which nature can have in her efforts at restoration, constant change of air, constant diversion by change of scene, and freedom from mental anxiety. On the other hand, we have on several occasions found that "the summer heats," as it was once expressed to us at Smyrna, " drive on phthisis furiously ;" and it is our invariable experience that regulation of the patient's diet, which is to a considerable extent efficient elsewhere towards check- ing the disease, at all events in its outset, is carried out with greater difficulty and subject to more fre- quent interruption from a variety of causes here than in England. To the scientific and statistical world this has been long known, and therefore needs no further comment ; but the real merits of the former of the two propositions have not been so clearly set forth as those of the latter. ii. phthisis com- It is true there are no trades in the Levant at all mon m natives. ana ] O g OUS i n their effects upon the pulmonary system to those which in England produce the grinder's rot or the stonecutter's asthma. But the statistics given in books, written by men with many years' experience of the East, such as " Die Krankheiten des Orients," by Dr.Pruner, agree with our limited observations in stating that the pro- portion of consumptive disease is as large among the indigenous population of this as of any part of the world. We have met with several cases in which the power this mysterious diathesis has of tainting a whole generation has been as well illustrated in Smyrna as it could have been by a family brought up in hardship and privation, cold, damp, and hunger, by parents themselves affected with the complaint, either in France or England. A single family has furnished us with examples of pulmonary phthisis in one brother, strumous ophthalmia in another, scrofulous cervical glands in one sister, and tabes mesenterica in another. Scrofulous diseases in the bones is likewise very common amongst the natives of this region. We may remark that a very short experience of the diseases of the East is sufficient to show that there at all events consumption and ague may co-exist at one time in the same individual. It is a noteworthy fact 69 at scrofula is especially common amongst the Ar- menian Roman Catholics, who are a small body of pie, and intermarry much among themselves. The ews, who live poorly, likewise suffer considerably un this class of diseases. Pneumonia and pleurisy are neither of them un- Pneumonia and common, yet the climate of Smyrna is not so well P leuris y- calculated to produce these affections as many other places in the Mediterranean which enjoy most unde- servedly a much higher reputation for salubrity. The invalid in Smyrna is not exposed to those sudden transitions from excessive heat to excessive cold which are so common in other places, where, leaving the blazing heat of an open promenade, you may turn all at once to meet an icy blast rushing down from some snow-capped mountain. Cancer is an exceedingly rare disease in this part Cancer. of the world. Diseases of the heart are not uncommon ; and we Heart disease. have met with many cases of functional disturbance of the organ in a certain class of Turkish officials, who are in a daily habit of over exciting themselves with raki. Dyspepsia is a common affection both amongst the Dyspepsia. Turkish and Jewish populations. Both are much given to the use, or rather the abuse, of sweetmeats and oil, to the exclusion often of almost every other article of food. And in certain Greek monasteries, where animal food is not allowed to be eaten, almost every inmate will have a series of dyspeptic symptoms to relate to any passing traveller whom he may sup- pose to be a physician. Bowel complaints are not so common as might be Bowel com- expected, considering that for three months in the pa year fruit of one kind or another is very largely con- sumed by all classes. The cholera in its visitation favoured no class or Cholera. nationality more than another, and in no respect, so far as we could learn from report, very few cases indeed having occurred during the year 1855-1856, the period of our residence in Smyrna, did this dis- ease assume a different character from that which it has manifested elsewhere. 70 The stress of the Mediterranean remittent falls occasionally upon the stomach, and under these cir- cumstances it assumes the name of gastric fever. It lasts often from fourteen to twenty-one days. Diarrhoea. The diarrhoea to which Europeans are so frequently subject on their first arrival in the east is produced in different cases by different causes, and requires different treatment. (i.) It may arise from a congested state of theportal system, and in this case it will yield to the influence of mild mercurials, followed by gentle purgatives. (ii.) It may arise from a relaxed state of the mucous membrane of the intestines, which should be remedied either by desiccating remedies, such as the aromatic chalk mixtures, &c., or in severer cases by astrin- gents, such as are tannin, catechu, or the ferri carbonas saccharata. (iii.) It does arise more frequently perhaps than from all the other causes combined, from the irri- tation produced by the retention in the intestines of faecal matter, which is due to the comparative atony often supervening in a hot season, and which is almost invariably removed by castor oil and opium. Diarrhoea may be due to tubercular, dysenteric, or malarious disease, but without taking these varieties into consideration, since they are to be appropriately treated by reference to the special disease of which they are but a part, it will be obvious that the diarrhoea of congestion, of relaxa- tion, and of irritation, are three entirely different dis- eases in their origin and in their therapeutics, and that the remedies for the one kind will, if applied in a case of either of the others, tend only to aggravate the evil. The reason why removal from one climate to another is so generally productive of diarrhoea may be in great measure, that under such circumstances the relations previously existing between the functions of the skin and the intestinal mucous membrane are disturbed, and the disease is the consequence of the loss of equilibrium. This principle is closely con- nected with the rationale of a great part of the suc- cessful treatment of dysentery. 71 eas far Circumcision does not appear to have conferred Syphilis. upon those who have submitted to that rite any immunity from the liability to contract syphilitic dis- ease, which, though not so rife as in Egypt, is yet from uncommon in Anatolia. Uterine diseases are common, and especially uterine. among the Jewish population, but amenorrhcea, dysmenorrhoaa, and menorrhagia are widely diffused amongst all the nationalities. Eye diseases of every variety are to be met with Eye. in Smyrna. The effects of two forms of ophthalmic affections strike the attention even of the passing and unprofessional observer by their frequency ; entropium, ectropiurn, and trichiasis, the sequelae of neglected ophthalmia, and the almost equally obvious products of old strumous eye disease. Diseases of the lachrymal sac are also common here. Each nationality in Smyrna has provided itself with its own hospital. The Turkish hospital (Hopital de la Ville) is capable of accommodating from 90 to 100 Hospital*. patients. It was employed in 1855 as a barrack for Turkish. Turkish soldiers ; subsequently it was given over to the English medical staff as quarters ; and, lastly, it was again employed as an hospital for the British Swiss Legion, when that force occupied as barracks the building which had previously been the British General Hospital. Besides this building, the Turks have a military hospital, containing sixty beds, somewhat too closely packed, and a quarantine establishment, capable of accommodating a very much larger number of men. Quarters for from 300 to 400 British soldiers were found there at different periods in 1855 and 1856. The Greeks have a large building which goes by Greek. the name of the Greek Hospital. But besides 150 beds for cases of disease, this institution provides accommodation of one kind or another for about 100 lunaucs and idiots, as well as for a small number of aged and helpless individuals of both sexes. On the several occasions of our visiting this insti- tution, we found always three beds where two should have barely been allowed, and we never saw any attempt made at isolating infectious diseases. This 72 was the case even in an epidemic of small-pox in the winter of 1855 and 1856, which of course propagated itself to all within its reach who were capable of receiving it. We were assured, however, that the mortality from beginning to end from this epidemic had been very slight, and only amounted to three deaths. We observed that the old-fashioned practice of smearing the face with blue ointment was still con- tinued in the case of small-pox patients. The phar- macopoeia employed, and the language used for prescriptions, was, though in a Greek hospital, Italian. The parts of the building devoted to the reception of cases of mental disease are a disgrace to a civilized community, and it is as disgusting to remember as it is useless to describe their condition. The poor-house part of the institution is in a more tolerable state, but leaves much to desire in the way of cleanliness and increased accommodation. The expenditure of the whole institution amounts to 3,000/. per annum ; of this 600/. is annually defrayed from the endowments it possesses, and the deficiency is contributed from the common fund of Seep. SG. the Tpotixtxi) Koivo'-nj?. To the institution are attached one surgeon and one physician, and one resident medical officer. The patients with mental diseases are only occasionally inspected. The others are visited daily at 8 A.M. Armenian HOS- The Armenian Hospital partakes rather of the character of a poor-house or refuge for the aged and destitute than of that of a hospital properly so called. As might have been expected from the comparatively small numbers and easy circumstances of that mer- cantile community, this institution was very nearly empty when we visited it. It had from 20 to 30 inmates, but could accommodate from 100 to 120. Jewish. The Jewish hospital is a quadrangular one-storied building ; its rooms are mere cabins opening into a corridor; they have wooden floors, but are totally destitute of every other means and appliance ; they have no beds and hardly any utensils for any purpose. The patient lies in his own rugs on a mat upon the . floor, frequently without even a water bottle, with or without companions as it may chance. The same 73 description will apply to the two Turkish hospitals at Magnesia, both that for insane and that for sick patients. The English, Dutch, and French hospitals, are each supported by their several governments, and are devoted to the reception of the subjects of the Power, who are generally sailors from the ships which have arrived in the port. COMMERCE. It is to the excellence of her port that Smyrna Advantages of owes her repeated recovery from disasters which were the Port ' sufficient to destroy for ever many of her neighbours not so advantageously situated. There is deep water along the whole length of the city, and ships can anchor close to the quays and custom houses. Unlike Alexandria and most of the other Levantine harbours, the harbour of Smyrna is secure from sudden squalls, and is of such extent that almost any conceivable number of vessels may lie in it at one time and in perfect safety. And secondly, it is the most con- venient " scala" or shipping port for the three great valleys of the Hermus (Magnesia), the Cayster (Ephesus), and Maeander (Aidin), and is connected by camel roads with all the principal towns of the whole continent. Doubly favoured thus in its geographical condition, Smyrna has been enabled to flourish, in spite of bad governments and desolating wars, and is and will in all likelihood continue an im- portant centre for exportation. No ships, however, are built at Smyrna, and her harbour does not pos- sess a single dock of any description, though such a convenience might, from the nature of the shore, be provided at a comparatively trifling cost. Every article of export, whether of raw produce, of Tax on Ex- which nature the great mass of export is, or manu- portSt factured goods, as silk or carpets, pays duty to the enormous extent of 22 per cent. This monstrous and impolitic tax is thus raised, 10 per cent, is paid as excise by all produce on the spot where it is pro- 74 duced ; 9 per cent, further is paid on all goods on their being deposited in the custom house, and 3 per cent, more on being shipped. On imports. The country whose exports can bear up against such taxation as this must possess great facilities for production. The taxes borne by imports are, how- ever, much more moderate, and amount in all only to 5 per cent., 3 of which is paid by the custom house and 2 by the retailer, and there are no differen- tial duties. Catalogue By reference to the resume of exports and imports (on the next page) for 1855, it will be seen that England both exports and imports more than any other country ; that Austria, and the German and Swiss States, come next to her in these points, as also in the number and tonnage of their shipping at this port ; that, not considering the Turkish ports, France and the United States come next ; and, fifth in rank, Holland, whose commerce here is but the shadow of what it was. figs. Figs are exported in larger quantity for America than for English consumption, but those intended for the English market are of a finer quality. A con- siderable quantity of the figs intended for America are shipped on board the Liverpool line of steamers for England, and are subsequently transhipped at that port. The certainty and expedition of this route to America has begun to cause a diminution in the number of clippers employed in the fruit trade between America and Asia Minor. Opium. Opium was exported to "America in a somewhat larger quantity than to England, 278 cases, value 3,000,010 piastres, having gone to America, 267 cases, value 2,882,265 piastres, having gone to England. A considerable quantity of opium is ex- ported to China and the East Indies by the overland route; in the year 1854 as much as 724 cases. Carpets. England takes more than two-thirds of the carpets manufactured in Anatolia. These carpets are made in the interior, and by the aid of very simple ma- chinery, manual labour entering largely into the . means employed. Women and children work the carpets ; the dyeing is done by men. Orders are 75 COMMERCE OF SMYRNA FOR THE YEAR 1855. The million of piastres = 8,000/. The pound sterling = 129 to 130 piastres. In the year 1855 goods were imported into Piastres. Smyrna of the value of - 257,004,700 In the same year goods were exported from Smyrna of the value of - 284,957,026 The whole value of exports and imports - 541,058,726 Piastres. Piastres. The imports were from Exports to England - - in value 80,105,328 83,447,620 England. Austria, Germany. Austria, Germany, Switzerland - 55,654,130 26,990,440 Switzerland. France - - 31,912,790 26,430,750 France. United States - 19,434,550 24,895,520 United States Holland - 10,520,140 2,604,780 Holland. Piedmont - 999,550 2,888,350 Piedmont. Tuscany - Malta Different places - 2,406,260 1,903,120 5,448,140 767,700 4,960,980 8,636,660 Tuscany. Malta. Different places. Turkish ports - 48,617,800 105,330,120 Turkish ports. Total imports - 257,004,700 284,057,020 Total exports. The English imports were coals, linen, iron, indigo, stuffs, hard- ware, other goods as manufactured hemp. French. Coffee, fezes, hats, nails, woollens, watches, precious stones, wrought hides, warm stuffs, paper, salted fish, hard- ware, silks. Austrian. Woodware, coffee, hemp, woollens, warm stuffs from Switzerland, paper, hardware. United States. Woven goods, coffee, flour, salted fish, hardware, rum, brandy, sugar, tobacco. The goods exported from Smyrna were figs, raisins, madder, valonea, galls, gums, opium, hides, leeches, silk, and carpets. From the more detailed tables given in the Appendix for Details from the commerce of the year 1854, we extract this list : Appendix, pp. 89. 1854. Piastres. Piastres. Export of Madder - total value Valonea - 18,497,970 17,512,270 18,133,270 15,300,850 = value to England alone Figs - 13,225,100 5,421,800 Raisins - 17,943,350 5,330,000 Opium - ,, 13,271,510 2,882,265 Sponges - 4,313,500 3,436,000 Carpets - 3,844,600 2,300,000 Sorted gums 3,139,700 1,093,500 " The articles in this list are the principal articles of export to England. It will be observed, that nearly the whole of the madder and valonea exported went to England alone. The pick- ing, sorting, and packing of these two articles of trade occupies a large number of hands in Smyrna. 76 given by an agent, and it is generally necessary for him, on account of the poverty of the workers, to advance a considerable sum of money to enable them to purchase materials. As much as two-thirds of the entire value of the carpet is thus advanced, some- times, previous to its completion. In some of the villages where this branch of industry is carried on the work-people can make carpets of one pattern only, but there are other villages in which numerous patterns are worked. As regards the dyeing of the carpet, the red colour in the Turkey carpet is gene- rally, and ought to be always, produced by madder. Logwood is also employed, and cochineal, but where the latter dye is made use of the colour of the carpet is apt to fade. Blue comes from the indigo, and the yellow from the yellow Persian berries. By a refer- ence to the tables of exports it will be seen that carpets, silk, paper, and spun cotton are the only manufactured articles the list contains ; and though the silk manufactures cannot be said to be in a declining condition, the carpet manufacture is the only one which has made some advances within the last few years. At the present time the carpet manu- facture of f Anatolia is competing successfully with that of Persia. Stft. Much of the silk exported from Smyrna is brought from Brusa and other places, at a distance of some days' journey into the interior ; but much has been within the last few years manufactured in Smyrna itself, in an extensive establishment, said, indeed, to be one of the largest of the kind in the world, the result of the enterprise of a French merchant of Lyons. Com Trade. In the year 1 854 the value of the corn exported to European and Turkish ports was as much in value as 4,563,850 piastres ; and nearly half as much as this quantity was consumed in the making of biscuit for the allied armies. Barley to the value of 162,050 piastres was exported to England alone within the same year. Owing to these circumstances the price of provisions rose 60 per 100 as compared with the average prices of the preceding years. Considerable quantities of corn were shipped for England in the early part of the year 1855, but towards the end of the summer of that year, the exportation of corn was prohibited, save to Turkish ports ; and this branch of trade, in consequence, fell into abeyance until the proclamation of peace, since which time it has again been resumed. The French Government had a biscuit bakery constantly at work in Smyrna so long as the war lasted. We may remark, that though the export of hares', Fur Trade, foxes', goats', and lambs' skins is considerable from this pott, none of the finer furs are native to the country, and that most of the fur which is so largely worn by the Orientals as to be almost a distinctive article of their dress, is imported from America. The history of coffee here is an analogous one. It Coffee. is universally drunk by the poorest Anatolian, often almost to the exclusion of any other beverage. It is yet an exotic ; consumed in the wildest and remotest districts of Asia Minor, it is produced in the West Indies. The total amount of olive oil exported from a country most favourable to the growth, and covered with multitudes of the trees, was, in 1854, only 1,718 quintals, value 452,600 piastres ; of this none went either to England or France. The latter country, indeed, imports oil into Asia Minor for culinary pur- poses, the exotic product, by a most complete inver- sion of the natural order of things, thus superseding the native in its own country. The difficulties of the transport affect injuriously the quality of the oil, by necessitating the salting of the olive, and thus intro- ducing impurities into the oil. Enterprise would find* a field in this as well as in the opium and grape and wine trades of this country. Drugs. Note de Drogues du Levant. Opium, l re qualite, un morceau 2nde 3 me ?> }> Salep, l re PIASTRES. 200 2 nde Carried forward 215 78 PIASTRES. Brought forward - 215 Mastic 95 Lotor - -" Amadou ---- Grains Jaunes Radix Saponaria - - - - ^ 40 Thus Encens, Egypt. Latron Soda Gomme Sandraque (Caramanie) -J Gomme Adraganth (sic) en feuilles, -\ l re qualite - - - I 4 , Idem, 2 nde qualite - ( Idem, naturelle, non travaillee - J Galle, noir - o vert V 10 blanche - - - -J 394 -i = i()8 Brokerage - 58 . 50 j piastres. 452.50 We have here given a list of the drugs which were to be found in the drug market of Smyrna in the spring of 1856. We have given this list in the shape of the bill unaltered, as presented to us by the broker (" fieo-mjr," "courtier") we employed, for large speci- mens of all these drugs, and for his own labour in purchasing them, as such a document may be of service to any one who wishes to make a similar col- lection on the same spot. This list is by no means co-extensive with the number of drugs to be found in the markets of Smyrna, still less with the multitude whose traditional commercial source is there. Having repeatedly surveyed the market, we directed no speci- mens to be taken of the drugs imported by sea, such as the sulphate of iron and the sal ammoniac from England, the senna from Egypt, or the gum benzoin, of such as the ruddle and other native products, which, though indigenous and plentiful, were of no pharmaceutical importance. We were not able to procure any specimens of the foetid gum resins, ammoniacum, assafoetida, &c., which, though not pro- duced in Anatolia, yet pass through it from Central Asia, scammony was scarce at that season of the year, and the liquid ^torax was not to be had in Smyrna. 79 There is no opium grown within several days' Opium. journey of Smyrna. It is incorrect, as we found by inquiry on the spot, to say that it is grown near Magnesia. We were assured when there that the opium country was a long way further inland, and the same answer was given to our inquiries when at Aidin, a whole day's journey further from Smyrna than Magnesia. Nor did we at either place observe any of the plants growing. The name of the place usually assigned as the source of opium by the dealers is Kara Hissar, which is also sometimes called " Afium Cara Hissar," or " Opium Cara Hissar." It is packed in hampers of matting, which again are packed within coarse haircloth, and it is thus transported on camels from the place of growth. Whatever adulterations it is subjected to, it undergoes previously to its arrival in Smyrna ; when it arrives there it is unpacked in the presence of an authorized person, and the process of sorting commences. The opium is in cakelike masses, seldom weighing more than 2 Ib. ; each mass is enveloped in a dry leaf, and covered thickly with the adherent achaenia of some species of dock. Lump after lump is handed to the assayer, whose process is more rough and empirical than any process in the How tested. world which is exercised on objects of such value. He seizes each lump as it is handed to him, and plunges a knife into its substance ; then, according to the odour evolved, to the appearance of its fracture, to the presence or absence of cretaceous, gummy, or amylaceous impurities, he tosses the lump, after one instant's examination, into one or other of three heaps, the first, second, and third qualities. The same process is repeated upon the rest of the lumps, and from beginning to end the knife is never wiped ; and thus the test of smell, the most valuable criterion furnished in the whole process, is rendered wholly nugatory. It is obvious that the decisions passed after such an examination as this must often be quite other than the value, i.e. the per-centage of morphia in each piece would warrant. Scammony is produced in great quantities and in the immediate neighbourhood of Smyrna. It is obtained from the Convolvulus Scammonia, as it grows wild on 80 the hills, its root is cut off in a slanting direction, so that the juice gravitates as it exudes into a shell placed beneath to receive it. This drug was exported to England in 1854, to the extent in quantity of 2,4Q5 okes, and in value of 776,500 piastres'. We believe that at present the difference between pure virgin and unadulterated scammony is well known andappreciated in England. We have been told by an English mer- chant in Smyrna that, upon first commencing business there, he collected, as anyone easily might, two boxes of the gummy resinous exudation as pure as it could possibly be, i. e. with the admixture of no other im- purities than those which might happen to attach to the gum in the course of exudation. These boxes he sent to one of the largest drug depots in the United Kingdom, and they were then returned to him as not coming up to their standard of purity. He then added to the two cases of pure scammony an equal quantity of various other substances, other gums, as guiacum, chalk, sand, &c., the sweepings in fact of a druggist's shop ; and he avers that his four cases of adulterated scammony were received as genuine by the very same persons who had rejected his two cases when free from all impurities. For the entire truth of this story we are not ready to vouch, but it is abundantly certain that nothing of even analogous import could happen at present. Salep is little if at all imported into England at present ; it has been superseded there by arrowroot, sago, and other such farinaceous articles in one direc- tion, and by tea, coffee, &c. in another of the appli- cations to which it was put. On the Continent it is still much used. In Smyrna itself there is a large consumption of it, and, when properly prepared, it is as palatable, nutritious, and unirritating as any article of the same class. Its use is not confined to the invalid, though it forms an admirable article of diet for many cases, and especially for those of bowel complaints, but it is also extensively used as an article of daily food. It is brought to Smyrna by camel caravans, and is said to be grown in the table land of Central Asia. Gum mastic. Great use is made in the Levant of mastic, and it is much employed by the western dentist and varnisher. 81 is the drug seen first and most frequently in the markets of Smyrna as it is produced in Chios, of which Smyrna is for a large portion of the year made prac- tically the port, by the arrangements of the steam- packet companies. Chewing mastic is one of the methods by which the Turks of both sexes strive to escape from the ennui of bodily and mental inaction, and, by its property of becoming ductile and tenacious when masticated, this otherwise brittle and transparent gum is admirably fitted for the purpose. From time immemorial it has been used as a dinner pill in Eng- land, and it is the distinctive ingredient in the spiri- tuous drink raki, so largely used and abused in Anatolia, which is euphemistically called " mastica." Amadou, when steeped in nitre, is used as tinder. Amadou. but the flint and steel is rapidly falling into disuse, being superseded, except in the opinion and employ- ment of the caravan drivers, by the lucifer matches which are abundantly imported from Austria. The giant boletus, from which it is manufactured, is indi- genous in the neighbourhood. The Lotor, contained in the list, is a substance not Lotor. unlike coarse canella, and it possesses strongly astringent properties. But we were unable to obtain in Smyrna any history of its origin or employment, and a high authority to whom we have had recourse in England was equally in the dark with ourselves. Storax and Saponaria are exclusively sent to storax and Austria. The Grains jaunes de Perse are to be ^ST found in the English market, but are exclusively p. ni. employed as dyeing substances. Leeches are reared Leeches. in ponds just outside the town, and are brought thither in leather bags from the interior for the most part, though some are bred upon the spot. Con- siderable difficulties beset this species of enterprise, but we were informed by the owner, M. Moraitini, an intelligent and courteous Greek merchant under Austrian protection, that at length, by a constant attention to the changing and purity of the water in the several ponds, and to the supply of proper food, he had succeeded in making his speculation answer. The leech is exceedingly susceptible of cold, and it is necessary to provide a thick bedding of mosses and water weeds to cover the bottom of 82 the ponds into which it is put. France and Austria took more leeches than England, whose demand for this article, M. Moraitini informed us, had somewhat decreased of late. This fact may be explained by the feeling which now exists in England pretty generally, that too free a use has been and may be frequently made of this article of the Materia Medica. Leeches of a smaller size, and therefore lower price, were required for the English market than by his customers of other nations. They are sold on the spot by weight, 500 gr. the oke,*4/. for 2 Ib. Orpiment. There is much orpiment to be found in the bazaars. It is said to come from Persia, and in combination with caustic lime it forms a depilatory powder much used by the Mussulman population. There are three subjects in connexion with the exports of Anatolia which yet remain to be noticed. They are, the methods for conveyance of goods from the interior to the towns on the seaboard, the places for stowing away goods, and the shipping which carries them to foreign lands, i.e., the roads, the khans and warehouses, and the commercial marine. i. Roads. The Turkish empire cannot be said to possess any roads or ever to have made any, or even attempted to preserve such as it found ready to its hand. Its internal communications are tracks formed by the passing traffic, uninterrupted where spared by the mountain torrent, impassable occasionally when this has not been the case, either covered with loose stones of all sizes and shapes, or consisting of deep and yielding sand. But it is not to be supposed that this has always been the case in a country once possessed by those greatest of road-makers, the Romans. In the very heart of the country, while toiling along a narrow, broken, and often dangerous path, it is not uncommon for the traveller to come upon a considerable stretch of broad stone-paved road, which, like the legible fragments here and there to be met with in a half destroyed manuscript, makes one feel the more bitterly the loss entailed upon us by the carelessness of man and the ravages of the elements. The roads of all mountainous countries are liable to be destroyed in places by the heavy and sudden downfalls of rain incidental 83 to such localities ; but besides this cause, another has conspired even more effectually throughout Anatolia to effect the destruction of its roads, viz., the practice the Turk has of providing himself with hewn stone for his own private purposes from whatever source he can with least trouble to himself and regardless of all other considerations. The camel is the principal beast of burden em- Camels. ployed in the transport of goods throughout Asia Minor. The use of mules, asses, and horses is, though not uncommon, yet much less widely dif- fused. Wheel carriages are entirely unknown, and with the roads in their present condition, they could not be made use of. It is not unusual to meet a string of as many as sixty or seventy camels all heavily laden ; the whole procession under the care of two or three men, and preceded almost invariably, possibly to secure an equable rate of progress, by a boy on a donkey, holding in one hand his own bridle, and in the other the halter of the leading camel. Three miles an hour is the usual rate of the camel caravan. It is not common to see a camel without a load, even when in a caravan bound inland. The superstitious reverence which the Turk pays to some of the lower animals, as, i.e. the stork, has been interpreted by the passing observer as an exem- plification of the character for kindness and humanity to the brute creation which writers have been pleased to attribute to that race. We have no hesitation in saying that the Turk is to his beast a hard and bad master, and that the unfortunate animal possessed by him suffers as much as one possessed by one of the lower orders in any other nation, not only from habitual neglect, but from sudden outbursts of bru- tality. It is a common thing to see a raw upon a camel's back of six inches in diameter, and other wounds elsewhere from the. friction of girths, &c. ; and, as might be expected, it is also exceedingly common to see a dead or dying camel lying by the roadside surrounded by dogs. The warehouses in which exports are stored pre- ii. Warehouses, vious to being shipped do not differ in any impor- and tant particular from similar establishments elsewhere. F 2 84 As buildings, they are generally long and lofty arcades, with small windows let in at a considerable height above the ground, and strong iron-plated doors, which are regularly locked and barred at sundown. The khan, as being an institution peculiar to the east, and one possessing several points for commen- dation, deserves a more lengthy description. The architectural idea expressed in the khan seems, like several other typical forms of eastern architecture, to have been transplanted into European soil in the middle ages, and to have served as a model for col- legiate buildings. Both classes of building are quadrangular, and both have one, or at most two points of entry capable of being closed by strong doors. The fountain in the centre, and the encir- cling corridor, go further to complete the resemblance, but the eastern building has seldom if ever more than two stories, and the corridor runs round the upper as well as the lower of them. All round each of the corridors are small rooms with very strong doors, small windows, and a raised dais to spread the tra- vellers' carpets and other sleeping apparatus upon, and generally for the upper story lofty dome-shaped roofs, whose external appearance reminds one, strangely enough, of the manufactories in England where sub- limation is carried on. The ground floor range is seldom employed as a sleeping place, though fre- quently as offices for the sale, and generally as depositories for the keeping of goods. Any traveller can enter this building, and on paying a trifling sum (45 piastres per month) can occupy one of these small and strong rooms, the key of which is handed over to him. From the moment of his entering the khan to the moment of his leaving it, his own expenses are within his own control, and he is as independent as if he were still in his own dwelling in the country. Coffee he can procure from the cafejee, who occupies a small room looking into the archway of the entrance, and analogous in position and other respects to the porter's lodge of the European col- lege. Bread, meat, and charcoal for firing, he must purchase for himself without the walls, but stabling, straw, and barley for his beasts of burden are pro- 85 vided for them within the khan. Within the four walls of his room the merchant from the interior has his goods, if they are in small compass, placed with him, and all the functions of his public and private life alike will be carried on within the same area. If his goods are bulky, the lower story has generally ample room for stowage. Merchants resident in the towns often make u^e of Khans used as the rooms in a khan as offices, whither they repair ^ ces ' during the day for the transaction of business. The Persian merchants have an entire khan appropriated to their exclusive use, and their representative or consul has within its precincts a court for deciding all disputes that may arise between its occupants. Some of these buildings are occupied by resident Khans used as artisans, the poorer ones living entirely in the khans, shcps ' the richer taking the room as a cheaply-rented shop. One khan is entirely occupied by shoemakers, the aggregation of dealers in the same wares serving here as in the bazaars to keep all parties informed as to the passing value of any article for the time being, in default of any more refined method of attaining the same end. Lines of steamers of the three nations Austria, m. steamers. France, and England call regularly at Smyrna, and it is seldom that a less number than two or three steamers is to be seen in the harbour at any one time. Every merchant steamer carrying either the Austrian or the French flag which came into Smyrna during our sojourn there of more than a year was with the exception of an occasional French transport, either in the Austrian Lloyd or the Messageries Imperiales Company. Both these companies are French and richly endowed by their respective governments, and Austriait - the latter of the two has for some time carried the Eng- lish mails, but, as a rule, their boats are ill-appointed and unpunctual, and they are small, brig-rigged, and propelled by paddles in the immense majority of cases. Each of these companies sends two boats to Smyrna every week one from Constantinople and one from the West ; and fortnightly each company has a line running to Alexandria, the boats of which call here also. Though these steam companies aim 86 especially at securing passenger traffic, they neverthe- less afford considerable facilities for shipping cargo, and goods of all kinds are weekly exported and imported by their agency. English. There are several lines of steam-ships between Smyrna and Liverpool, but no mail is carried by any of the English ships. These ships are all, without exception, propelled by the screw ; the majority are barque and a few ship rigged. Their average tonnage is much larger than that of the other two lines, and they direct their attention to the securing of good freights rather than passengers, who, though well pro- vided for in other respects, might be inconvenienced in these boats by the long stay which their waiting for cargo sometimes entails upon them in Smyrna and Alexandria. The Liverpool ships generally go to Constantinople first, and having discharged cargo there, they return to Smyrna. If they succeed in get- ting a full cargo there they return direct to Eng- land; but if not, they go round by Alexandria. Besides the English lines belonging to English houses, there is also, as already mentioned, a line of English steam-ships in the employ of a company of Greek and Armenian merchants. Though there is no regular line of steam communication between Smyrna and London, yet this means of intercourse between the two places does exist, and about once every month a steamer sails direct for London. Sailing ships. This profuse supply of steam ships has begun to affect the interests of sailing vessels engaged in the Smyrna trade. A good average passage for a sailing vessel, when favoured by the wind, from England to Smyrna, may be estimated at thirty days ; it is not unfrequently done in less time ; and we have heard of an instance in which a ship arrived in Smyrna in twenty-one days after leaving Cardiff. But these are all voyages performed under favourable conditions, and these favourable conditions are very frequently want- ing. The Liverpool steamers will, under the most unfavourable circumstances, reach Liverpool within seventeen days from the date of their leaving Smyrna. It is obvious that sailing vessels must compete with great disadvantage with these steamers, in all cases 87 where certainty and expedition are required ; and in the fruit trade it is said that steam will at no distant period enjoy almost a monopoly in freights. The merchant in America finds it answer his purpose better in many cases to have his cargo of figs shipped in a steamer at Smyrna for Liverpool, and subse- quently trans-shipped at the latter port, than to have them brought direct without any trans-shipment in a sailing ship from Smyrna to America. The same causes will operate still more powerfully upon the European fruit ships. In fact, the peculiarities of the Mediterranean navigation seem to require steam more than most other seas. The Mediterranean possesses no trade winds, and is, on the contrary, especially liable to sudden changes and dead calms. Schooners and brigs were the favourite class of vessels employed in the Smyrna fruit trade, but within the last few years a somewhat higher style of vessel has been introduced for this purpose. The tonnage of English steamers which entered Ush ship ~ the port of Smyrna was : In 1854, 31,580. The number was 52. In 1855, 46,868. The tonnage of English sailing vessels which entered the port of Smyrna was : In 1854, 28,923. The number was 118. In 1855, 28,611. The commerce of Smyrna represented the sum in piastres : In 1854 of 136,191,140 piastres. In 1855 of 257,001,700 piastres. The increase in the commerce is accompanied by a proportionate increase in the tonnage of the principal carrying marine ; and from the amount of tonnage that marine possesses in these parts, it will be seen that, though the " Levant Company " and " Smyrna Fleet " are now, as names, merely historical and of the past, the realities they represented are in as vigorous an existence as ever. 88 In conclusion, I must make full acknowledgments to J. W. Hulke, Esq., of King's College, and to Messrs. Wilkinson, Eddowes, and Atkinson, late my colleagues at Smyrna. They collected much infor- mation upon several of the subjects treated of in this report, and most liberally placed it at my disposal. Though they are not to be held responsible for any statement which this report may contain, they are well entitled to share in any credit which may accrue to it. Lastly, it is due to myself to say, that I am as well acquainted as any one else can be with the numerous shortcomings and deficiencies of this report, and that, though some might, many also could not have been supplied by greater diligence on my part. GEORGE ROLLESTON,. M.B.,M.A., . Fellow of Pembroke College, Oxford, and late Assistant Physician to the British Civil Hospital at Smyrna. APPENDIX. TABLE OF EXPORTS FROM SMYRNA FOR 1854. Piastres. Madder Roots | Almonds Quantity, total - - Quintals 72,628 Quantity, to England - 71,225 Quantity, total - 250 Value, total - 18,497,970 Value to England 18,133,270 Value, total - 114,980 Quantity, total - - Kilos 94,301 Value, total - 4,563,850 Corn - - -[ Quantity, to England - 23,290 Value, to U. K. - 861,800 Bronze - Quantity, total - Quintals 77 Value, total - 36,300 Quantity, total 36,230 Value, total - 3,157,580 Rags - -{ Quantity to England - 2,110 Value to England 145,700 Yellow "Wax Quantity, total 2,175 Value, total - 1,998,820 Cocoons Quantity, total - - 517. Value, total - 1,118,600 Cottons, raw Quantity, total - 870 Value, total - 219,340 Cottons, spun, Anatolia Chrcmate of Iron Quantity, total - - 626 All for England, from Izmid 11,808 Value, total - 268,650 Value - - 416,400 Old Copper Quantity, total - - 1,248 Value, total - 685,908 Quantity, total - 44,950 Value, total - 2,257,250 Emery - - -| Quantity to England - 38,360 Value to England 1,926,250 Sponges - | Otto of Roses - - { Quantity, total Bags and Cases 2,817 Quantity to England 1,715 Quantity, total - 32,500 Quantity to England 18,300 Value, total - 4,313,400 Value to England 3,436,000 Value, total - 552,600 Value to England 290,000 t Quantity, total - - Quintals 53,060 Value, total - 13,225,100 Pigs - -( Quantity to England - 18,070 Value to England 5,421,000 Olive Oil Quantity, total - - 1,718 Value, total - 452,600 Dried Pruits [ Quantity, total - - 2,223 Quantity to England 940 Value, total - 446,500 Value to England 235,000 < Quantity, total - . - 10,131 Value, total - 4,168,970 Galls - - -| Quantity to England 1,571 Value to England 643,810 Sorted Gums - - j Quantity, total - - 2,863 Quantity to England - 998 Value, total - 3,139,700 Value to England 1,093,500 Dried Vegetables Maize - Quantity, total - - Kilos 21,944 Quantity, total - - 22,471 Value, total - 627,520 Value, total - 573,010 Quantity, total - - 6,395 Value, total - 774,540 Nuts - -| Quantity to England - 5,311 Value to England 677,510 c Quantity, total - - Cases 1,538 Value, total - 13,271,510 Opium -j Quantity to England - 267 Quantity, total - - Kilos 162,050 Value to England 2,882,265 Value, total - 3,060,230 Barley - - -i Quantity to England 52,450 Value to England 162,050 Bones - -| Paper from Smyrna - Quantity, total - - 13,020 Quantity to England - 12,640 Quantity, total - Bales and Cases 808 Value, total - 186,370 Value to England 177,860 Value, total - 843,700 Dry Ox Hides - Quantity, total - - Quintals 3,738 Value, total - 956,980 Lambs and Goats'Hides Quantity, total - - Bales 887 Quantity to England - 830 Value, total - 1,015,500 Value to England 949,500 (" Quantity, total 98,670 Value, total - 9,404,250 r Red - - ^ Quantity to England - 41,060 Value, total - 3,895,000 K*. Black { Quantity, total 98,056 Quantity to England - ,, 8,900 Value, total - 4,906,000 Value to England 445,000 Quantity, total 13,014 Value, total - 3,573,000 1. Sultanas - \ Quantity to England 3,600 Value to England 990,000 Hare Skins Quantity, total - - Bales 383 Value, total - 1,046,100 Radix Saponaria Quantity, total - - Quintals 137 Value, total - 45,910 Salep Quantity, total 137 Value, total - 91,300 Leeches - - -| Quantity, total - - Okes 1,502 Quantity to England 5 Value, total - 1,384,150 Value to England 4,750 Scammony - - 1 Quantity, total 3,270 Quantity to England - 2,495 Value, total - 997,050 Value to England 776,500 Silk Quantity, total - - Quintals 483 Value, total - 2,806,700 Storax - Quantity, total - 139 Value total - 76,450 Carpets, Anatolia - ( Quantity, total 1,048 Quantity to England - 596 Value, total - 3,844,600 Value to E ngland 2,300,000 Valonea - - j Quantity, total - 243.999 Quantity to England - 218,674 Value, total - 17,512,270 Value to England 15,350,850 Box Wood - [ Quantity, total 26,826 Quantity to England - 12,785 Value, total - 858,110 Value to E ngl and 436,350 90 THERMOMETEICAL REGISTER. March 6 - March 7 { f' 5 P.M. 7.15A.M. 12.45 P.M. 5.15 P.M. 7.30A.M. 12.45P.M. 5.45 P.M. March 12 7.30A.M. 6.45 P.M. 9.15 P.M. 7.30A.M. 12 5.15 7.30A.M. --{ -{ {7.30A.M. 12.45 P.M. 5.45P.M. March 14 - 7.30A.M. March 15 - 11. P.M. March 16 March 18 - March 19 - March 20 - March 22 - March 23 March 24 ]\Jarch25 March 26 4.0 P.M. f 8.0 A.M. -<> 1.0 P.M. UO.O P.M. f 8.0 A.M. ~\ 2.30P.M. I. 8.30P.M. r 8.0 A.M. J 11.0 A.M. ] 4.45P.M. L S.SOp.M. Degrees. 60 58 ^ Forenoon sunny ; wind and 60 > rain in afternoon, with thun- 60 J der and lightning. 59 "^ ~~ I Stormy, thunder and lightning, ~q t and rain till late. ^g c Lightning and thunder in morn- ^Y < ing ; rain till afternoon ; rain L in night. > Fine day ; no rain. I Rain with gusts of wind in \ afternoon ; thunder and rain 61 58i 58i 58- ) , 2 > at night, with much wind. 59 ^ I Rain, much wind, and heavy / 59 } 60 J-Rain. 59 J 58 Heavy rain in the night. 55 Heavy rain all day. 55J- "1 Forenoon sunny ; afternoon 54 / one or two heavy showers. 55 2 | Fine clear day. - Fine day. - Fine day. - Fine day. 58 Fine day. /TO - I., > Fine weather. D 1 J g4 I The warmest day yet ; fine all 62 / da y- 60-^ i grj I Very hot; no rain for some 65 4 J days ; sundown 6.0 P.M. 63jh 69 (Hot; no rain; sirocco for last ^0 f 68 ) two days. 91 Degrees. March 27 8.0 A.M. 65 No rain ; hot. March 28 -{^** fiftl >Hot ; no rain. f 8.0 A.M. I 12 30 P M March 29 < o'/ir >V. 9.30P.M. 40 -\ fi7 ^ >Hot ; no wind ; no rain, bo ( 66 J r 6.45A.M. 1 9.0 A.M. Ci 30 -< 10.30A.M. I 6.0 P.M. ( 10.50P.M. 65 ^ 65 654 f No wind nor rain. 65 641 J r 9.0 A.M. 10.20A.M. March 31 -J g'Jj) 63 4 j 66 I xr j P fii >No wind, no rain. 5.30 P.M. .8.20 P.M. 66 2 I 64 ) r 8.0 A.M. A ! , J H.30A.M. "S 3.30P.M. I 5.45P.M. >No rain, cooliner wind. 60^ | {8.0 A.M. 11.0 A.M. 3.10P.M. 6.0 P.M. 10.25P.M. 60 \ 64 J >No rain. 64 631 I r 6.30A.M. A ., J 7.55A.M. April 3 -1 2.55P.M. I 7.30P.M. 60 -\ 63 (Cloudy morning ; rain in 64 [ shower. 621 J slight April 4 - 7.45A.M. 62 No rain. {1.0 P.M. 6.0 P.M. 8.10P.M. 64 61 61 {8.0 A.M. 11.15A.M. 2.0 P.M. 6.0 P.M. 8.30P.M. 61 63 64 641 631 f 6.0 A.M. A 'I T J 7.15A.M. April 7 -^ x pM I 6.0 P.M. 63 63 66 65 A -i o r 7 o A.M. Aiml 8 - < , , ^ r Cloudy in morning ; rain in 64-lJ afternoon; lightning and 63 ) thunder and heavy rain at night. 92 Degrees. {7.15A.M. 63 N 8.30A.M. 611 April 9 11.0 JL.M. 12.45P.M. 63 ^ Heavy rain and thunder, and 63^ | intervals of sunshine. 3.45P.M. 64" 11.30P.M. 61 J f 7. 45A.M. 62 -v 12.30P.M. 63 J April 10 3.0 P.M. 63 > Heavy rain and wind. 6.15P.M. 6U 8.30P.M. 61 J April 11 6.30A.M. 601 Heavy rain. r 9.30A.M. 60^ April 12 J 11.30A.M. ) 2.30P.M. QQ J>Very heavy rain and wind. I 6.0 P.M. 58 J r 7.30A.M. 57 -| April 13 -1 12.30P.M. L 5.0 P.M. 561 Y Cloudy. 55| J April 14 C 7-10A.M. -{ 1.40P.M. I 4.30P.M. 57 ^ 60 > Sunshine, gentle breeze. 621 J April 15 /12.0 I 6.20P.M. $} Sunny. r 7.15A.M. 581 April 16 J 12.0 ] 3 . 30 P.M. 59" 60 L 9.40 P.M. 58 r 7.30 A.M. 58 April 17 J 1.0 P.M. ~\ 4.45P.M. 59^ 60 1 10. 15 P.M. 58 April 18 f 8.0 A.M. -\ 12.0 I 7.0 P.M. 584 591 59 C 8.30 A.M. 581 April 19 -^ 1.0 P.M. 60-1 UO.O P.M. 58j April 20 r 6.45A.M.. 112.0 571 59 r 7.15A.M. 57 April 21 J 12.0 m \ 7.0 P.M. 59 61 UO.dOp.ic. 60 April 22 r 7.30A.M. J 2.0 P.M. '\ 7.0 P.M. 1 10.0 P.M. 59 611 611 93 Degrees. April 23 {6.30A.M. 8.0 A.M. 1.20P.M. 9.15P.M. 591 60 611 {7.0 A.M. 59| 9.0 A.M. 60} April 24 10.45A.M. 60 2.0 P.M. 61 6.30P.M. 601 (- 7.10A.M. ef April 25 J 10.30A.M. ") 1.0 P.M. 61 62 I 3.40P.M. 63 April 26 {7 . 30 A.M. 12.30P.M. 5.15 P.M. 60 62 2 r 8.20A.M. 61 April 27 J 11.15A.M. "S 1.0 P.M. 61 61 I 6.45 P.M. 60 April 28 r 8.0 A.M. J 1.0 P.M. "\ 6.10P.M. Lii.o P.M. 601 591 60 57 April 29 r 7.45A.M. I 1.30P.M. 59 601 April 30 r 9.0 A.M. -1 2.30P.M. Lll.O P.M. 61 ^| 62 >Hot, sunny. 61 J May 1 r 8.20A.M. -1 1.15P.M. 111. 30 P.M. 651 VHot, sunny. 61 J r 8.0 A.M. 62 -) May 2 J 1.30P.M. ) 5.15P.M. 63 1 Cloudy and showery, rain and 63^- i wind. 111. 30P.M. 63" J May 3 r 7 45 A.M. "112. 35 P.M. 631 } Bright sunny day. May 4 r 10.30A.M. -/ 7.0 P.M. 111. 30 P.M. 64 "i 6 g ^ Sunny clear day and moonlight 65 J ni ht - May 5 (- 8.0 A.M. J 12.30P.M. ") 5.30P.M. 111. 30 P.M. 66 ^ 68 ( 69 >Sunnyday. 68 J {7.30A.M. 67 11.30A.M. 701 May 6 12.30P.M. 71 3.0 P.M. 73J 10.30P.M. 69 94 Degrees. C 8.0 A.M. 691 May 7 J 10.20A.M. "S 7.0 P.M. 701 721 Ul.O P.M. 70 May 8 / 7.30A.M. "1 1.0 P.M. 691 73 May 9 {10.0 A.M. 12.0 6.20P.M. 70 69| May 10 r 8.0 A.M. J 12.0 ~\ 3.30P.M. I 6.0 P.M. 68 67| 68 68 May 11 {1.0 A.M. 7.30A.M. 12.30P.M. 67 ] 67 > Rainy. 68 J May 12 r 7.40A.M. I 3.15 P.M. 67 691 May 13 / 8.30A.M. I 1.30P.M. 68 70 May 14 {8.25A.M. 1.5 P.M. 7.0 P.M. 69| May 15 r 8.0 A.M. 112. 30 P.M. 69 71 May 16 - May 17 r 8.0 A.M. 1 12. 30 P.M. 701 72 {7.30A.M. 72 May 18 1.0 P.M. 4.30P.M. 8 7.30P.M. 74 10.5 P.M. 73 C 6.30A.M. 92 May 19 J 10.30A.M. } 12.45P.M. I 8.0 P.M. 731 70 fll. 10A.M. 701 May 20 -} 1.0 P.M. I 4.0 P.M. 72 931 May 21 - {7.30A.M. 71 ^ May 22 12.0 3.30P.M. 5.0 P.M. 72 1 lo_a (Cherries ripe. 74! f Report. 6.40P.M. 73 4 J May 23 r 7.0 A.M. -< 3.15P.M. I 5.25P.M, 71 74 See page 50, [ay 24 . ay 25 May 26 ay 27 May 28 May 29 - May 30 May 31 June 1 Degrees. ( 8.10A.M. 701 <J 12.45P.M. I 5.15P.M. 73 f 9.0 A.M. 1 1.0 P.M. I 5.0 P.M. 72 73 75 f 8.30A.M. <^ 12.0 I 3.0 P.M. 73 73 74| {7.0 A.M. 73 11.0 A.M. 73 12.0 731 1.0 P.M. 74 2.40P.M. 75 >. 10. 15 P.M. 74 {7.30A.M. 73| 11.30A.M. 12.0 74| 3.0 P.M. 77-J 5 . 30 P.M. 77i 8.0 P.M. 76 2 10.15P.M. 75 f 6.45AM. 74 ) 10.30A.M. * 74 \ 11.45A.M. 751 I 3.30P.M. 791 {7.30A.M. 74 8.45A.M. 74| 11.0 A.M. 751 12.45P.M. 98 3.0 P.M. 794 6.0 P.M. 9.50P.M. 76J C 7.30A.M. 76J 9.55A.M. 77 11.5 A.M. 12.50P.M. 801 3.20P.M. 821 5.0 P.M. 824- _ 5.45 P.M. 81 " 6.30A.M. 771 9.20A.M. 78| 10.25A.M. 12.30P.M. 8lJ 2.0 P.M. 81f 2.30P.M. 82 5.0 P.M. 82| 9.45P.M. 804 96 June 2 - June 3 - June 4 June 5 June 6 June 7 June 8 June 9 Juno 10 June 11 - Degrees !7.0 A.M. 781 8.45A.M. 78| 12.0 81 1.0 P.M. 81J 2.45P.M. 82 5.0 P.M. 82 (7.15A.M. 79 8.40A.M. 79 10.0 A.M. 80 11.0 A.M. 81 12.10P.M. 814 2.25P.M. 81} 7.15 A.M. 791 f 3.15P.M. I 4.45P.M. 82 82 (5.15A.M. 77 7.30A.M. 10.50A.M. 1.0 P.M. 76 781 79 2.20P.M. 79* . 5.5 P.M. " 7.30A.M. 77 1 9.45A.M. 761' 10. SO A.M. 76J 12.0 77 1.0 P.M. 77 ,' 2 . 30 P.M. 78 i 5.0 P.M. 1,11.0 P.M. 74|J f 8.15A.M. 74 1 10.0 A.M. 74 1.0 P.M. 73| ; 2.15P.M. 74 4.45 P.M. 731 7.0 P.M. 7^2" 111. 30 P.M. 73i f" 7.45A.M. 731 9.15A.M. 10.40A.M. 72^ ; 2.30P.M. j 3.45P.M. 7.0 P.M. LIO.O P.M. 74? 74| 73 73 ,-8.0 A.M. 71 10.5 A.M. 72 ) 2.30P.M. 73 i \ 4.30P.M. ^t> 6.30P.M. 74i UO.O P.M. 74 A short hurricane, with thifnder and lightning. 97 June 12 - June 13 June 14 June 15 June 16 June 17 June 18 - June 19 - June 20 - June 21 June 22 Degrees. ( 8.0 A.M. 73 1 2.50P.M. 75 S 5.30P.M. 75J L 7 . 45 P.M. 74J J8.0 A.M. 74i 9.50A.M. 75 4 11.15A.M. 77 12.50P.M. 79 3.20P.M. 80 4.50P.M. 791 9.15P.M. 77i !S.O A.M. 76 12.0 A.M. 83J 1.0 P.M. 851 2.30P.M. 861 10.0 P.M. 79" (9.30A.M. 76 11.0 A.M. 79 3.0 P.M. 831 6.45 P.M. 82 10.30P.M. 79 f 1.0 P.M. I 4.20P.M. 82 85 S9.0 A.M. 80 12.15P.M. 821 1.0 P.M. 84 2 . 30 P.M. 851 3.45P.M. 851 10.30P.M. 82 r 7.0 A.M. 11.0 A.M. ) 1.0 P.M. 941 82 84 1 3.0 P.M. f 5.30P.M. v. 10.15P.M. 851 85 80 r 9 . 45 A.M. 80 12.15P.M. 801 1.0 P.M. 81 4.45 P.M. 83 6.45P.M. 81 1 11. 30 P.M. 78 r 9.0 A.M. 79 10.0 A.M. 79 11.15A.M. 79 1.0 P.M. 81} 5.15P.M. 84i 9.0 P.M. 80- J2.30P.M. 77 G 98 Degrees. r 8.45A.M. 791 1 June 23 -J 10.0 A.M. 1.0 P.M. 82 2 1 ^ 9.45P.M. 821 17.0 A.M. 79 11.0 A.M. 82 12.0 A.M. 84 3.45P.M. 861 9.0 P.M. 83 I 7. 45A.M. 781 10.20A.M. 791 1.0 P.M. 81 6.0 P.M. 824 7.30P.M. 801 June 26 - r 9.50A.M. 75 1 June 27 -< 1.0 P.M. 4.30P.M. 76 c. 6.30P.M. 751 [10.45A.M. 75 1.0 P.M. 76 2.30P.M. 76 4.20P.M. 771 9.0 P.M. 76 * i - 7.30A.M. 751 1 9.45A.M. 76 June 29 -< 10.45A.M. 76 1.0 P.M. 79 1 ai.o P.M. 75 r 7.30A.M. 74 9.0 A.M. 741 10.30A.M. 75| 12.0 77 June 30 - - 1.0 P.M. 781 2.30P.M. 79| 3.30P.M. 80 . 5.15P.M. 79 _1 1.20 P.M. 75 --11. A.M. 76 i July 1 -< 1.5 P.M. 3.10P.M. 78} 80 1 96 July 2 -<; r 9.30A.M. 1.0 A.M. 2 . 30 P.M. k. 4.45P.M. 761 80 81} 83 [7.30A.M. 76 1.0 P.M. 79 3.30P.M. 81 4.45P.M. 80} 10.30P.M. 78$ 99 Degrees. July 4 - 9.20A.M. 79 " 0.0 A.M. 79 11.30A.M. 80 July 5 -< 1.0 P.M. 4 . 5 P.M. 81 83} 5.30P.M. 83 _ 9.40P.M. 80} " 9.0 A.M. 79 10.45A.M. 1.0 P.M. 801 82} July 6 -< 2.30P.M. 83 4.0 P.M. 851 5.15P.M. 841 10.0 P.M. July 7 .Tnlv R July 9 July 11 July 12 - 9.0 A.M. 80 12.10P.M. 82 1.0 P.M. 824- ' 2.15P.M. 84 3.45P.M. 83} .10.0 P.M. 81 f 5.0 P.M. 82 1 10. 45 P.M. 80} " 7.45A.M. 79J 9.45A.M. 79| 11.0 A.M. 80^- 2.40P.M. 84 5.45P.M. 831 9.10P.M. 83 _ 9.0 P.M. 81 f 7.45A.M. 80 1 1.0 P.M. 831 I 10.0 P.M. 82 Ln.o P.M. 82 7.30A.M. 81 9.45A.M. 81} 1.0 P.M. 841 3 . 30 P.M. 87 4.40P.M. 87 6 . 45 P.M. 86 9.10P.M. 851 ,11.30P.M. 84| " 7.45A.M. 82} 9.15A.M. 831 1.0 P.M. 87 3.30P.M. 89 4.25P.M. 89 9.0 P.M. 86 10.0 P.M. 85J 100 Degrees. f 9.45A.M. 86 11.10A.M. 881 July 13 j 1.0 P.M. } 2 . 30 P.M. 891 901 5.30P.M. L! 1.10 P.M. 89i 851 r 7.45A.M. 85 >| July 14 J 10.30A.M. '\ 11.30A.M. 86f f 1 12. 45 P.M. 87iJ r 9.15A.M. 81 >v July 15 J 12.0 "] 5.45P.M. 83 I 831 f 1 10. 30 P.M. 79iJ f 8.30A.M. 79|l 1 10.30A.M. 80f July 16 -<; i.o P.M. 82 y | 4.30P.M. Lii.o P.M. 84 1 80 J July 17 / 6.45A.M. "1 1.0 P.M. 8?} July 18 - July 19 - July 20 f 9.30A.M. -J 2.0 P.M. 1 10. 30 P.M. 83 871 841 r 7.45A.M. July 21 J 2.0 P.M. ] 3 . 30 P.M. I 4.0 P.M. m July 22 {9 . 45 A.M. 11.0 A.M. 12.20P.M. 83 84 851 {10.25A.M. 83 11.30A.M. 85 July 23 1.0 P.M. 4.0 P.M. 861 88 6 . 30 P.M. 871 10.15P.M. 85 {7.30A.M. 84 2.30P.M. 88} July 24 3.30P.M. 90 4.45P.M. 891 11.30P.M. 87~ f 9.20A.M. 891 11.25A.M. 89^ July 25 -<J 1.0 P.M. 89^ 3.0 P.M. 90 r L 4.45P.M. 89} 51 I Excessively stormy night, with north wind. I 83 (^Excessively stormy night again, with north wind- North wind. 101 Degrees. 11.20A.M. 891 July 26 -^ 12.45P.M. 891 L 3.25P.M. 91| July 27 - July 28 r 9.0 A.M. -J 2.40P.M. L 6.0 P.M. 85 -) 88 > Strong Inbat. 861 J flO.O A.M. 841 1 12.50P.M. 851 | tly 29 -<; 2.30P.M. 86| ^Inbat. 4.15P.M. 87 L 8.0 P.M. 85 J r 7.45A.M. 83 -N July 30 J 1.0 P.M. ~\ 4.30P.M. gg| Unbat. L 9.40P.M. 84 4 J July 31 ("12.30P.M. "1 3.30P.M. 8 g I Inbat. {7.30A.M. 82 -\ August 1 1.30P.M. 3.0 P.M. 85 ( 851 r 8.50P.M. 83 ) August 2 r 1.15 P.M. ~t 5.30P.M. ggf | North land breeze. August 3 - North land breeze. f 8.0 A.M. 11.0 A.M. 86 "1 87 August 4 J 12.30P.M. ~\ 2.45P.M. 88 I North wind from land, replaced 90f f by Inbat in the afternoon. | 5.20P.M. 9011 L 9.10P.M. 88 iJ ; 8. 15 A.M. 86 1 9.45A.M. 86 I August 5 11.20A.M. 1.15 P.M. 11* >Inbat. | 3.25P.M. L 5.0 P.M. 89| | 88 J r 7.30A.M. 84 % August 6 J 9.50A.M. "\ 1.15P.M. 841 1 851 r L 3.0 P.M. August 7 - 12.0 P.M. 841 August 8 3.20P.M. 861 North wind. August 9 {8.15A.M. 1.0 P.M. 3.15P.M. 84 ^1 851 V Inbat. 87" J flO.O A.M. 83^ August 10 J 10.49A.M. m \ 2.30P.M. 84 I 86 f lnbat - L 3.30P.M. 86 J 102 8.45A.M. August f .A.M. a J; I 2.30P.M. 7.45A.M. 9.30A.M. August 12 -<( 12.45 A.M. | 3.20P.M. L 5.0 P.M. {10.25 A.M. 1.0 P. 4. 10 P. P.M. P.M. August r 15 -< I lO.O A.M. 1.0 P.M. 9.0 P.M. AugnstlS { 12.0 A.M. 1 I 5.30P.M. August 1 9 -<J flO.O A.M. 12.0 A.M. 1.0 P.M. 1 3.25P.M. L 4.0 P.M. August 20 - 2.40P.M. Inbat. 84 ^ 87 Vlnbat. 83 84 84 10.0 A.M. 84 11.30A.M. 84 August 16 -<( 1.0 P.M. 85 2.30P.M. 3.45P.M. 8 {10.50A.M. 1 . 15 P.M. 2.20P.M. 4.0 P.M. wind. North wind. 103 COMMERCIAL MISCELLANEA. A. Wages and Prices in 1854-5-6. )uring the war the demand both for labour and pro- isions was very much increased. The price of corn alone 60 per 100, and other articles of food in Hke proportion. r ery many of the labouring population went to the Crimea to seek their fortunes in one line or another, and besides this the numbers of hands employed in Smyrna by the British Government contributed also to raise the scale of wages. In consequence, the rate of payments both for labour and provisions was much higher during the last two years than is usual in Anatolia. At Sedikioi, a village seven miles from Smyrna, and a place from which a great quantity of figs and grapes are brought into the town daily during the season, a labourer received 12 piastres (2s.) for his day's work in the year 1854-5. Previously, the rate per diem had been 7 piastres (Is. 2c.) At the close of the year 1855 the prices at Sedikioi ranged as follows : Piastres. Piastres. Bread of good quality 2 per oke = 2 Jib. Price of, 1854, 1J A sheep - - 80 A lamb - - 40-50 A goat - - 50-70 A kid - - 30-40 Best beef - 8 per oke =3 piastres (6d) per Ib. A yoke of oxen to plough with, 1,000 piastres (81) Close to Smyrna, at the leech ponds in the Valley of St. Anne (see page 60), we found the wages of some Abyssinian blacks to be 8 piastres per diem, and the salary paid the Turk who acted as overlooker, and lived day and night on the spot, was 250 piastres per month 24. per annum. It is obvious that with such prices as these the condition of the labouring population will be one of tolerable comfort, so far as the procuring the principal necessaries of life goes ; and every one may observe a general appearance of health and strength in the physical development of the labouring classes, whether his eye rest on the sturdy, round-limbed and short-jointed Turk, or the lithe, elegant, yet active and sinewy form of the Greek. Women are employed in out-of- door labour of the lighter kinds, such as weeding of vine- yards, &c., but not to the extent so painful to witness in Syria and Egypt. 104 B. Fig Boxes, Round and Square. Pig drums. Economy of labour is consulted, though economy of stow- age is not, by the construction of a circular box. The cir- cular form is thus attained : the piece which is to be of this form is of some pine wood ; this, when in the plane condi- tion, and not very exactly cut or squared, is placed before a chip and shaving fire, and warmed through and through, and it thus acquires some degree of pliancy and ductility. For the second part of the operation the following machine is employed : a bar of iron set all round with cogs is made to revolve by a hand crank, and there is at about the dis- tance of the thickness of the fig-box board a stout frame- work of wood just below this iron bar ; into the interval thus formed the warmed wood is introduced ; it is gradually pulled forwards by the cogs of the revolving bar, which, as it were, knead it into pliancy, and destroy any tendency to brittlen ess, and when it has passed through it has gained a circular contour, and lost all its resiliency. By this method a drum is made in a very short time. Square boxes. The square boxes are some of them made by Greeks, and these are of an inferior kind. The best square boxes come from Germany, and are destined by the exporters to con- tain a peculiar quality of fig. The shape of the fig box depends upon the orders of the exporter, and therefore it is incorrect to ascribe the persistence of the round shape to the obstinate and irrational preference for that which is old, simply because it is old, which the Turk really does show in so many instances. C. Valley of the Mceander. Toivn of Aidin, ancient Tralles. The Englishman, on looking down over the vast green and smiling valley of the Meander thinks, that in no other country except his own has he seen so large a space with so few uncultivated, unproductive spots. The valley and the town of Aidin are almost exclusively Turk ; and after the many comparisons which have been drawn in this report to the disadvantage of the Turk, it is only fair to say that the state of cultivation here leaves little to be desired. Favoured highly by nature, man's labour has ably availed itself here of the advantages it has found ready to its hand. The whole valley is surrounded by lofty wooded mountains ; it is intersected with streams, and irrigation is extensively carried out. Hedges of the English type are very generally to be found, and enclosures of one sort or other are universal. 105 3 Historical Notice. It is the boast of the inhabitants that they have a harvest Produce, for every month of the year, and by reckoning in of calves, lambs, and kids, the number is easily made out ; the nine other great and staple products are valonea, madder, wheat, barley, maize, tobacco, grapes, figs, olives. Throughout the war a considerable number of horned cattle, averaging about 100 per week, were exported from Smyrna to the order of the French Commissariat in the East. As there is no great quantity of grass land close to Smyrna, the depots for these cattle were formed at some distance from the place of embarkation, and many hundreds might be n grazing in the valleys of the Meander and its ibutaries. Within the valley itself there are tolerable roads, but its communication with the rest of the country is carried on by means of as bad roads as can be conceived. Aidin, the ancient Tralles, was, under the Roman empire, a Greek town of considerable note. Anthemius, the archi- tect of Santa Sophia, was a native of this place, and the remains of ancient buildings are very conspicuous there at the present day. The three greafe arches of the palace form an object visible at 20 miles distance, and on a nearer in- spection tolerably perfect .remains of a theatre are still to be seen. We found the marble remains in a rapid process of transformation into headstones for Jewish graves, and we saw several columns being scooped out into the form of stone drinking troughs. The immediate neighbourhood was the scene of a great victory gained by Conrad III., A.D. 1147, in the time of the second Crusade, over the Turks, who, by the perfidy of Manuel Comnenus, the Greek emperor, had been enabled to prepare a surprise for the Latin army. In the 14th century Tralles was seized upon by Aidin, a Turkish emir, at the head of a numerous horde, and its name was changed in honour of its conqueror. Aidin seized upon Smyrna at the same time, and held and handed down to his son a considerable and independent principality. At this time a large portion of Asia Minor was parcelled out into small kingdoms of this kind under Turkish emirs, who maintained an independent existence till the days of Bajazet and Mahomet II. At the present moment the Valley of Aidin contains a Present con- large population, principally Turks, who have within the dltlon - last few months taken occasion to show their dislike for their new reform bill by an outbreak against the Christian population. The Christians of this part of Asia Minor being in a small numerical minority, at a distance from the sea coast, and in consequence, from, effective protection on Turkish con- quest, A.D. 1313. Turks and Christians, Character of town. 106 the part of the European powers, and surrounded by a fanatical Mussulman population, are very constantly sub- ject to insult and injustice at their hands. The stories of this kind, though possibly somewhat exaggerated, are yet too general not to contain some considerable foundation of truth. It is a principal seat of government, and the Bey, who is at present a most intelligent and courteous Arab, has several towns subordinated to him. The Turkish character of Aidin is strongly marked by the large flocks of storks and vultures, which, secure of being unmolested in the centre of a Mussulman population, are nearly as tame as if domesticated. The town is remarkable for the extent of ground it is spread over, and when looked down upon from the top of the hill under which it lies, and upon which the ancient city once stood, its roofs contrast in two points with those of most Turkish towns, viz., 1st, by their excellent state of repair ; 2nd, by the wide interval of garden and orchard by which they are separated from each other. The popula- tion may be estimated at from 40,000 to 50,000, of whom the immense majority are Turks. There are two barracks in different parts of the town, both unoccupied, May 1856, and in some respects suffering from neglect. There is a large expanse of table land above the town, amounting to from 2,000 to 3,000 acres, covered for one-third of its extent with olive groves, but in the rest smooth grassy downs. D. Wine and Raid manufactured in Anatolia. Wine. Much wine is manufactured in Anatolia, and it is chiefly owing to the total want of care exercised in selecting the grapes and sorting the vines, that with its fine, equable, and reliable climate it does not export wine much more largely. A considerable quantity, however, was exported to Odessa and other Kussian ports previous to the war ; the great mass is made by Greeks, and a very great number of these manu- factories are to be found clustered together within a short distance of the great Greek church of St. Photeina. The better sorts of this wine, both white and red, but especially the former of the two, though not made to last more than five or six years, were preferred by many of the English stationed at Smyrna, 1855-56, to the wines of France, Sicily, and other parts of the Mediterranean, though these wines, as being largely imported, and paying scarcely any 107 duty, were exceedingly cheap, and country wine of one sort or other is the common drink in the houses of the richest families in the town, whether European or of other races. We were informed by M. Moraitini that wine intended Price. for an ordinary dinner wine cost him in the gross 50 paras (2Jd) the oke l^cL per quart, without reckoning any charges for transfer to casks, &c., and that wine of this quality and from this source was retailed in Russia at 5 piastres the oke 'i.e., 5d. the quart. There are numerous distilleries for raki in Smyrna. This R a ki. spirit is distilled off the dried carpels and stalks of an umbelliferous plant resembling anise, and called yAuxavio-ov, and subsequently as much of the gum mastic is added as the spirit will dissolve. It is a favourite drink with the Greek, and, being colourless, with the Turkish population, and its great cheapness favours much the habit of drunk- enness. Its price ranges from 6 to 7 piastres the oke 6d. to Id. for nearly a quart, English wine measure. E. Sources for Information upon Commerce of Smyrna. There are three returns published in Smyrna periodically, all of which we have consulted. 1. A return is printed quarterly at the office of the Austrian Lloyd Company for an association of the Smyrna merchants, giving lists of exports and imports of the ships which have entered arid cleared from the port, &c. A certain number only of these returns are printed, corresponding with the number of subscribers, and hence we are unable to affix a specimen of this as of the two other similar documents. 2. The " Nunzio Commerciale," a return appearing three times a month, in Italian, giving a resume of exports and imports, of the value of monies, &c., but not of shipping. We affix a specimen. 3. The " Lloyd Smyrne'en" was issued daily, but now appears only three days a week. Besides its other information, it gives the names of the captains of the vessels, which enable any one to see how few ships under the Turkish nag are commanded by Turks, the immense majority of their captains, as of their ships, having Greek names as well as Greek crews. Of this also we affix specimens. 7 Anno. 108 Smirne, 1 Marzo 1856. N 141 II presente foglio sorte regolarmente tre volte al mese giorno di Sabbato. NUNZIO COMMERCIALE. Si Abonnano alia Tipog. T. 31arco pulo. TUTTI QUELLI ARTICOLI CHE HANNO M. SIGNIFICA MANGA, C. CALMA, S. V. SENZA VENDITA, S. SOSTENUTI. IMPORTAZIONE. Pesi Piastre Anno IMPORTAZIONE. Pesi Piastre Anne Aceiajo Xo. O cant. 1G5 170 S Ferro ingl. in tavole di 1 a 13 _ 120 c OO . 170 175 S .ingl. in verghe 6 grossezze . _ 78 80 c Argentovivo oka 38 40 C Fil di Ferro assortito oka 4 } Arsenico bianco e giallo . cant. 130 140 C d'Ottone Xo. 12, 36 _ 15 c Bande stagnate ... casse 430 435 S d'Oro di Russia . . dram 360 e Biacca di Ilotterdara . cant. Garofali . . . oka 9 s di Genova . casse 170 200 m Gram di Tarsus . . kilo m Buttirro di Kussia . oka m di Alepo , _ Teneri m Berrette rosse ossia (fes) . c Indaco d'Olanda . . . oka 85 100 c in casse di Bengale 90 100 c Di Vienna uso 22 28 c Pelli maschi d'Andrianopoli . pa jo Leon Adutt Xo.l2a3 doz. 22 28 c Campegio . . cant 55 60 c Semo c Bosso . . 40 45 c Carta tre capelli assortiti . risma 27 37 c Mandorle dolci . , oka 9 I s Treluno 70 75 c Xoce moscate . . __ 55 CO c Straccia battuta e mercantile 10 i 11 c 180 190 Cocciniglia bianca ... oka 45 C5 c Pimento . . oka 9 10 Morrellona . _ m Palini di Trieste assort, uso inglese sacho 39 c Caffe di Moka le o/o _ m Pepe . oka 9 sv di America TR li per sacco . _ 750 JOO c Rum . . . gallo 13 13 J c Cassia lignea oka 22 24 c Riso di Europa . kilo 40 41 e Caviale nero . . _ m di Damieta . . 37 38 S Rosso . . _ m di Rosseto . . 35 36 S Cuoja di Francia . oka 22 23 s Salamoniaco d'Indie . oka 8 8 , " s Cotoni filati . _ Inglese . Water 12 a 20 13 i 13 ! Stagno in verghe . . cant. 880 890 s 16 a 21 _ 14 i 14 J Vitriolo inglese . . 45 50 c 20 a 30 15 i 15 1 di Trieste . . _ m Chiodi di Carintia assortiti Verde rame di Francia . oka 18 di Canal a 70 Tratte 210 Vitelli di Francia . . doz 500 550 s di Schizze di 9, 12,el8 250 200 Zatrano . oka 40 45 C di 30 e 40 baril. 246 270 Zenzero . cant 200 220 c TJso Trieste di Litre 3, 4,5, G, 7, 8 cant. Zolfo in canoli fine . _ 70 c 10,1410,20,26,30 120 25 Zuccheri di Avana 1 e 2 qual _ m Faro di Olanda oka 4 4 i c pesto di Anversa _ m Farina di America baril. 270 c in panni inglese . _ m Ferro di Russia in lame . cant. m di Americ i . . 295 305 1 inglese in lame assortiti . 73 75 c di Olanda 1 e 2 qual . 70 280 s VEXDITE DELLA SETTIMAXA. Oppio coffee 2 P. 115 Zucheri diOlhmda can. CAMBJ. MONETE. in beslik. L. Turque P. 108 -J Alix/.ari bid. 1000 298 } 310 L. Inglese 118 - Caffe sac. Londra 11 7 J Cecchini nuovi 21 J Valonealngl. cant. 2000 70 id. Trieste Setta Pajambol sac. Rum gal. Marsiglia 185} 186 Trieste 454 458 Livorno Olland i ., vechi 27 - MRhmudie 92 - Luigi di oro 98 - Pol Imperials 95 J Lana lavata cant. 250 600 505 id. brutta 2UOO 258 Costantinopoli caime 12} 13 o/o Colonati 27 - Rcgine 24 J- Gallu Mussur cant. 60 390 f Bavaresi j>3 ;* Cera gialla cant. 150 1020 1045 Oreo kilo Londra Dubloni 392 - Pezzi di 5 franchi 23 5 Pelletoni 2 qual i til tzechi 1000 20 Grano tii Anatolia kilo MarsiKlia . Trieste ,, di 5 drachmi 20 J Carbovaiitzi 18 I Grana gialla sac. 1P>2 6 7| Ollanda . Filik tzeki COO 55 J Costantinopoli . 109 ESPORTAZIONE. Pesi Piastre Anno ESPORTAZIONE. Pesi Piastre. Anno Alizari Bakir cant 305 300 8 Lana Lavata cant 500 C Kayagikl > . 302 303 a bianca d' Angora ossia filik 2 oke 55 55 1 s Ghiordes 1 ! . _ a Noccioli g t cant m Demirgik ] . 298 a Noce . . oka 1 J sv Tarabolus J 8 Oppio . . . dram 114 115 c Asfori di Persia] . oka 13 Olio di Me* lino e Adramiti fro. a cant 280 285 8 Alume .... cant 90 100 di Anatolia . . 270 310 C Cotoni Soubugia . m di Rosa . . mle 20 C Cassaba uso 320 330 8 Orzo . . kilo 24 20 8V Cbircagatzl m Pelo di Gambelo avoro inglese 2 oke 44 45 s Baindir . m Olandese _ m Axar m Biggio e rosso . 39 40 8 Kinick m Peletoni rossi e neri _ 29 30 8 Cera Gialla naturale 1 030 040 s Pelle di Lepre 100 pelle 1 qualita . C Ceci .... kilo 40 45 8 ' m 2e3 . C Seme dicanape 19 20 8 Pelli salate secchi t oka 7 } 8 6 Filati bianchi No. 10 a 11 oka m Radice Saponaria . . _ 1 } C detto Cantar . . m Rame Vecchio . . _ 18 m Fave I kilo 24 28 8 Seme d'Amst. 1 qualita 1 _ m Faggioli 43 44 s 2 qualita _ m Fighi sechi 1 e 2 qualita . cant m di Lino _ 3 c Elemo m di Giorjolina kilo 55 56 c Grano di Ussach 1 qual.T kilo 56 58 c Comino , oka 2 qual. |. - 48 50 c Seta di Brussa . oka . _ m Grauone J 20 22 c Pajambol . _ m ,, piccolo biaaco 16 17 c Sapone di Canea in casse . . cant 190 195 sv Grana di Persia oka 7 I 8 di Candia , _ 200 sv Mezza m di Metelino in casse 1 qual. 180 185 8V Gala di Aleppo nera cant m in sacchi . . _ m Verde m Tapetti grandi . . pik 31 32 c Bianca m piccoli di Persia . . _ 30 45 c Jerli nera 410 c diKulIa . luno 100 1000 c Verde . 220 c di Ghiordhes pik 40 c Bianca . 200 210 c Valonea uso Trieste cant a Zinchir . 170 c 2 qualital _ Gomma'Dragande fiore . oka 25 gv uso Ing. 1 qualita | franco 72 s Naturale 15 SV 2 qualita a G7 s Commune 11 8V mercantile Ibordo 8 Verrnicelle cant 22 SV Camatina' . C Arabica naturale . 300 :50 C Uva Sultanina Jerli ' oka m Giala . oka 100 m id Vurla cant c Salep 10 12 c id. sieltaZuplu _ c Scamonea . 200 400 a Naturale __ c ' Sandraca . 10 12 Cesme m Mastice . 100 200 8 De Nera _ m Incenso lagrime . cant 210 220 C Sultana Caraburnu _ c Assortito . . - 180 190 C Eleme id. _ c Lana sucida. brutta 258 8 Jerli rossa _ c Seconda qualita m id. nera __ c Nera Griggia m Beghlerge J _ c Sue. Brutta . m Nera Thira Baindir . 70 75 sv NOLLI DIVERSI. Commestibili 3} 4i Grani oliosi 100 braccia di Livor 86 100 di Berlino .. <i<; 4 INGHILTERA. TRIESTE. 100 di Vienna .. 113 Alizari S. 50 la ton. Valonea 40 Cotoni L. Lane 90 Frutta 100 Frutta ilcant C. 35 40 Valonea 50 55 Lana 120 Commestib Cera ,. 60 RAGUAGLIO DEI PESI. 1} dr. fa un moscale ossia nn xai di Vien. 180 fano un Rottolo e 100 Hot. un Cant. 400 fano una oka e 45 oke un cantaro. Grana giala S. 50 Comestibili 5 il quar. AMERICA. NOLLI DI RUSSIA. Taganrok Frutta cant. P. m Odessa id. m 58 kilogr. di Parigi 125 Libre di Londra 166 di Livorno Frutta L. 5} 6 la tunel. Grano Comma 180 di Genova ;, Lana S. Jim 130 di ^Vlarsi^lia OLANDA. RAGUAGLIO DELLE MISURE. 100 Fundi di Vienna, Frutta lasta F, 58 10 o/o Lana cant. ,, MARSIGLIA.: Cotoni franchi Lana 3i 4 Metre di Francia pichi 1 45i/o delBrabante 1 Arsin di Russia 1 J La yarda Inglese 1 2| pal di Genova ; 1 58} di Ollanda 3} Put di Russia ,. 1 kilo di Grano 22 24} 1 di Rizo 10 1 di Giorgiolina 16} 17.' 110 2 ANNEE. SMYRNE, 17 NOVEMBRE 1855. N 387. LE LLOYD SMYRNEEN. Feuille Maritime et Commerciale. LE LLOYD SMYRNEEN parait le Mardi, le Jeudi, et le Samedi de chaque semaine, il an- nonce les Arrivees et les Departs de tout espece de navire meme des plus petits, la qualite et quantitc de leur chargement, les Batimens sous Charge, le Cours des Monnaies, ainsi que les Changes de Smyrne et de Constantinople, etc. Le prix de 1'Abonnement est de 36 Piastres du G.-S. par trimestre, payables d'avance. On s'abonne a 1'imprimerie de MM. DAVERONI ET SOUGIOLLI, Quartier Franc, N 98, local G. Amic, Magasin N 3. ARRIVEES. Du 15 Novembre. SATALIE, en 10 jours, goel. ott.Polixeni, cap. N. Pasvani, de 25 ton. avec 900 k. ble, a 1'adr. de M. Peurdi. LIGNE de SYRIE, bateau a vapeur des Mes. Imp. Leoni- das, cap. Keraval, avec march, div. groups et passag. ALEXANDRIE, bat. a vapeur du Lloyd autr. Austria cap. Demattei. avec march, diverges groups et passagers. MARSEILLE, bateau a vapeur des Mes. Imp. Carmel, cap. Saflrey, avec march, div. groups et passagers. Dul6. CONSTANTINOPLE, en 6 jours, brick sarde Due Fra- telli, cap. H. P. Jarvino, de 160 ton. sur lest, a 1'adr. de M. D. Parodi. CONSTANTINOPLE, en 4 jours, brick autr. Vago, cap. F. Sutora, de 235 ton. sur lest, a ordre. CONSTANTINOPLE, en 8 jours, brick sarde Rosa, cap. B. Montobio, de 114 ton. avec 238 b. tabac, 1180 k. bid. 264 id mais et 39 sacs id a 1'adr. de M. A.,Iossif. METELIN, en 4 jours, tzer. ott. du cap. C. Saltapalanga, avec 350 k. ble, a 1'adresse de M. Amira. TENEUOS, en 6 jours, tzer. ott. du cap. G. Michali, avec 14000 ocques charbon. CONSTANTINOPLE, en 15 jours, bomb. ott. Arghino cap. Nicolas Sotiri, de 38 ton, avec 1000 pieces peaux, 20 b. chiffons et 27 id laines. SALONIQUE, en 10 jours, goel. ott. A. Gheorghios, cap. S..Christodhoulo, de 50 ton. avec 6500 pieces bois de construc- tion. DIKILI, tzer. ott. du cap. Hassan, avec 1000 pieces bois de construction. AIVALI, en 4 jours, tzer. ott. du cap. N. Triandafllo, avec 140 quint, valonee, ajTadr. de M. Hadji Elia. DARDANELLES, en 2 jours, goel. hell. Panaghia, cap. N. G. Manoli, de 33 ton. sur lest. DARDANELLES, en 2 jours, goel. hell. A. Athanassis, cap. D. Stamati, de 42 ton. sur lest. STANCHIO, tzer. ott. du cap. Ali Hassan, avec 8000 citrons. MARSEILLE, en 39 jours, brick hell. Evanghelistra, cap. Andreas Marco, de 148 ton. sur lest, a ordre. TENEDOS, en 7 jours, bomb. ott. Munissi Bahri. cap. Oeini Etem, de 113 ton. avec 1100 quint, valonee a 1'adr. de M. Balassanoglu. Du 17. CONSTANTINOPLE, bat. a vap. du Lloyd autr. Adria, cap. Benich, avec march, div. groups et passagers. CONSTANTINOPLE, bat. a vap. des M. Imp. Caire, cap. de Sommer, avec march, div. groups et passagers. Arrivdes par les bateaux de Cabotage : de Ourlac, 686 sacs raisin, de Carabournou, 30 id. id. DEPARTS. Du 15 Novembre. CONSTANTINOPLE, brick hell. A. Nicolaos, cap. A. Petroyani, avec 1000 sacs biscuits. SATALIE, goel. franc. Jean-d'Acre, cap. Bonot, allant prendre un chargement de graine ole"agineuse pour Mar- seille. ECHELLE-NEUVE,trois-mats franc. Trois-So2urs,cap. J. Pailloux, allant prendre un chargement de graine oleagi- neuse pour Marseille. SCODRA, goel. ott. Stella Diana, cap. Veli Mehemet, avec raisin, figues et galles. SALONIQUE, goel. ott. Eftichia, cap. I. Dhimitri, avec 500 k. sesame, 3 bar. cire, 150 quint, flgues, 100 id. fer, et 132 pieces marbres. CONSTANTINOPLE, bat. a vap. des M. Imp. Carmel, ap. Saffrey, avec march, diverges groups et passagers. Du 16. LONDRES, trois-mats aheliceangl. Arcadia, cap.Corbeth, avec 2077 sacs valonee, 1532 quint, id. 570 b. alizaris, 100 id. -chiffons, 93 sacs galles, 2039 bustes eultanine, 837 c. raisin rouge, 3244 bustes figues, 1929 boites id, 21 skelettes id. 18 c. fruits, 6c. gommes, 2 id. opium, 6 boites scamone'e et 2b. peaux. BOSTON, bark amer. Speedwell, cap. E. H. Hews, avec 537 b. laines, 14 id . tabac et 10 c. opium. TCHAM- ALTI, brick ott. Bahri Human Teki Hane", cap. Halil Hamet, allant prendre un chargement du sel pour Consple. ALEXANDRIE, troU-mats hanov. Rapid, cap. Pike, sur lest. CONSTANTINOPLE, bat. a vap. du Lloyd autr. Austria, cap. Demattei, avec march, div. groups et pass. CONSTANTINOPLE, bomb. ott. A. Nicolas, cap. D. Perlorenzo, avec 450 k. haricot, 440 id feves, 108 quint, raisin noir et 25 id miel. SALONIQUE, brick ott. Possidhon, cap. G. Pupuri, avec 600 b. peaux, 1300 pieces id. 260 sacs hene, 203 id. tumbeki, 18 id. cafe, 49 id. girofle et 70 id. encens. CONSTANTINOPLE, scho. angl. Zephyr, cap. Kelso, avec paille. CONSTANTINOPLE, bat. a vap. des M. Imp. Leonidas, cap. Keraval, avec march, div. groups et passag. TCHESME, tzer. ott. du cap. Mehemet, avec 250 quint, fer. 13 collis tabac et 18 id. manufactures. TCHESME, tzer. ott. du cap. Belali, avec 40 k. orge. TENEDOS, tzer. ott. du cap. Mehemet, avec 10 colis manufactures. CH^ Londres Paris Marseille Vienne Trieste Livourne Livre Turque LNGES 14 DE CONSTANTINOPLE. NOVEMBBE 1855. 3/m 145 .. 230 <Z99 d K3 d230J .. 516 .. 516 .. 199 CHANGES DE SMYRNE. 17 NOVEMBKE. (En livres turques a piastres 108.) Londres 115J d 116 Marseille Trieste .. Constantinople Ca'imte . . 183 d 183i 400 d 406 m a 21 p. o/o COURS DES MONNAIES. (En livres turques a piastres 108.) Livre Sterling . . Louis d'or Ptice de 5 francs Paul Imperial Carbovantz Pitce de 5 drachmes Ducats de Venise de Hongrie de Holland* Quadruple d'Espag Piastre forte d'JEsp, Tallari de la Seine Zvantzic Bavarois Livre Turque Mahmoudid Piece de 20 pic Agio sur les JBeshliks 117 93- ' '8 23- 94 \rnes 20 KJ* 21 rie OD 55 nde 54 pagne 392 Espagne 27 line 24f - 23? - . . . 108 . . . * 90 91 tres ancie:ine . 25J nouveau hliks . . 21J 11 p- 0/0 Ill SPECIMENS FROM THE GREEK NEWSPAPER. We here affix some specimens of the articles contained in the Greek Journal published in Smyrna. One of them will be observed to bear the title Mlgo? Ejtwrogixo'v. An article of this name appears weekly, and contains all the current com- mercial intelligence. The other extracts give useful infor- mation on other points, and all serve to illustrate the character of the paper in question. MEPO2 EMFIOPIKON. Ala TO.C, TTPQTs^slg eograj rou Hac^a, oA ra sT)j rrjj elcrayooyyjj Commercial si$ aSgaveiav. Mo'vov oil ^oi^a^sn; avsn/t^>j<rav coj ex T>j intelligence, rwv xa) l7rcoA)j0>jo~av a|U,e^<xvxa TT^OJ yg. 320 xai i ITTI TrgocrSox/a TT^OJ yg. 280. A4>IONIA. 'Emo^yjo-av oX/ya TT^OJ yg. 116. PIZAPIA. Mwax/gia yg. 302-303 ft6 oX/yaj wgatgei s . FPANAI. M*xgai Trgafsjj eyevav TT^O^ y^. 6-6 20. BAAANIAIA. EI ? aSgavsiav. Tijx^ yg. 60-70. KHPIA. Ka^^o-^sva yg. 950. 2ITHPA. 'ExTreo-fteva. ^Troj yg. 25-32' xg<0ij 14-12' a 50-110. 2TNAAAAFMATA Ms 'Odcoju-av<xj A/gaj Trgof 108. AONAINOT ...... 118 MA22AAIA2 ...... 186 464467. EMHOP1ON THS TPAHEZOTNTO^ KATA TO 1855. Ta aTr<a o(T xara TO 1854 e7rgv^y))<rav elj T^V auf>j(r<v TOU ou T^J Teair5?oOvTOj, Si^oxs<rav xai 81' oXow TOU STOW^ 1855. v \ \ * ~ t\ > \ KaTa TO TO TOUTO xTe7rXsyo"v sjj TYJV .- EeturnofCom- merceofTre- Disond for 1855. xeva. 'AyyXixa FaAAixa 45 2 47 28 8 36 2 2 2 2 2 2 36 4 40 73 50 6 129 73 15 34 122 112 'H 6A<x>) /a TWV el<rot^QevTcav xara TO STO$ roDro avs/3>) el gnrou 60 exaro^au^ja <ygocna;v, cwv. A/' auVT<axwv aTftOTrAo/wv Tre^/Troy 180,000,000 y ayyAixav 135,000,000 aOffT^jaxttV TfAo/av 480,000 2,160,000 IAA>JV<XV 2,470,000 8,000,000 12,000,000 EMHOPION THS AMI^OT S Return of Com- Avj/xoo-jsyou-sy eVraySa TttvaiKct TOV e&Trogiov T^C 'Aft.iO'OU (^ merceofSam- rJ/oCvroc) xard TO sroj 1855. 'O w/vaf ouroj elva; a soun for 1855. ''/5>\~p/ not <7VV:TCK.^f}Y) STTt TYj 6aO~Sl pS^OilMV 7T Arj^O^O^<COV. Kara TO 1855 Iroj eysivs TroXv |U,syaA^T=^ov s^ogiov y xaTa TO 1854, $|OTI xai >) eJcraywyi) xa rj /c TOU 7r^>o^ TO TWV 65;v Ssv eTTirgsTtsi TXyV Td%elctv xat v TCUV ^rouftfva>y TrgxypciTcHuv. Xa^ic ojaajc sij TX/V svvy]aaT;v, TO SCTCOTS^JXOV exjv^r^ 07ra;<7ouv. OI i sAaoov ex TWV psgwv Tourcav jasyaAvjv ro<TOT)jTa xal TO etiroiov TOVTO >'5:A= 15,000 ?wa. Twv u^ao-jU,aTcov lrsgtff(rOTeg6i sio-^fivjo-av xTa TO 1855 ? xaTa TO 1854* 7ravT 8s sTrcyArj^crav &<a TO'JJ g^j Ao /r youj' -TT^WTOV SioVt ol l YjUTTogovv, xafio Aa^oWsc ^gYjpoiTa ex T^J 7rcoA>j0"ea> TOJV y=v- ctvTcov bsvTegw 85 exa^trav 700 Sju,ara sij T^V i/Airo^xJjv v TOU ZiAs. Ata TauTa xa* 8<a T^V 7raoouo"/y TroAAciov TOV ' E ^ a y co y TJ. 27,867 go's? Af/aj y ? . 8,362,800 31,094 vgofaTet 2,238,768 3J547 alysj xa agvia 255,384 1,897 T^nroi 1,709,100 ]96 WIOVQI 70,560 1,000 xafMjXoi 11,440,000 4,605 XVT^ TT i v / y o 5 * 221,040 1,735 gooTwgov 916,080 4,480 av^axs; 161,280 6,000 xoAa pa>pj 108,000 687,758 O-ITO; 33,012,384 88 ; 612 aguGoa-iTOs Xeuxoj 2,126,904 113 400 X/TPIVOJ 512,000 KM 50,162 xavra^ia aAsupov 20,772 }> ^ogro^ xa a%U 22,324 65,100 5,892 /SaAAa* v^>oi(r^otTOi xat 48,000 21,504,204 4,414,568 1,096,592 650,400 1,562,400 5,656,520 4,176,000 62,880 12,512,330 725,040 1,426,000 375,480 11,995,200 1,718,400 E 1 <r a y T g T cr i a 29,000 xavra^a 1,048 16,043 1,007 8,500 894 24,990 /SaAAat 179 44 xicwna 5,312 xavraoja 665 418 596 622 3,623 16,769 330 7,784 215 715 4,595 To; 1855 eIcr^A5ov ei TOV AjW,sW 'Aj,t(7oD 446 TrAoTa, wv 56 a (45 arjoiox/vrjTa xai 11 icrTiox/yijra), 42 ^yaAAixa (23 ar- xa) 19 f<mox/vr]Ta), 169 ay^Aixa (70 ar/AOx/v^ra xa 99 *o"T<oxiv>]Ta), 150 o0cojw,av*xa (18 arjaox/yyjra xai 132 io~ro- x/vrjra), 25 o~^S<xa (2 aTjW/oxwjra xa< 23 iimoxivrjTa), 5 ve7ro- Aravixa (2 ar^ox/y>]Ta xai 3 <Vnox/vjTa)j xai 2 xai TnJAiva ayysTa, xrA. To oXov y<>. 119,887,714 21,120 1,912,320 635,900 50,160 1,072,808 1,126,800 1,079,116 16,095,560 67,200 470,400 387,000 256,400 2,203,600 To oAov ?> 25,578,184 H 114 "Leader" on Eastern ques- tion, Jan. 24, 1856. "Warlike tone of English Press. The " Times.' *' oA/ycov rr t v xara.vTa(nv rcuv Tr)V TT^O TOOV Trctoo&ofcow ayyAicov l cuv 6 xo'crjaoj vea? criiveAa/3ev lATr/Saj. 'H xaTa(7Ta(rjc aurrj slvai a<oo~y]|&/;TOc xai <a T' aAAa xal jW,aAjo~Ta xa0' oVov a<popa rijv o^ayccyyjv TOL) ayyAtxou TyVoy. f/ OA>) rj erratic aurou ^rov ecrp^aTcoj TroAejOuxcoTaTyj. Ms ap*/x,a- viov ^Aeja/jta xaT~o~xo'7Ty = <ryjU,7racrav TX/V paJO"(7<xrjv eTri/cpxreixv ctTro TrsptxTWV 5W$ Trsparcov, ava^Twv ra jU-aAAov euTrpoVira xa jCtffo>j aurrj;* a7rrjc/OjU, T 7raAa< xa) vsa TrAoTa xai (rrpaTs rrjj 5Aao-(7oxpaTOpo^ 'AyyA/aj, x) ctvstpsps Tracraj raj oVac >j ayyAix^ etJ^vt'a TrapsG'xsua^s *a TJJV Trpocrs^ xara exdrparc/av, TJ^V xpiVi^ov* ti^e5=<xvyV <f TCU xal vauap^oy; T^ <iv^poi^ioi$ TTOU xa) TTO;; w^siAov v xuipiwg T>JV ^Q^spav Apxrov* ore 85 QihavQpcoTro; TI$ crujx/3ouA=you(ra va sjxovoov, o Xpovof eAsy TTJV 8ia<popav eij eryvoSov Iv ^ r; 'Paxrcr/a eA= e(raj TTCCVTO- Sia T^J rj/^ou ritJv uTTOTsAcov xa va pv aAAa Travrore Aev fisAo/xsv i aWf, xat The " Morning Post." ayvooyvTej T* a7raiTi, xai yyyrj<7cov yjj EypcoTnjj." 'Ex TWV Aoycov oySgjj fiSyyaTO va eixao~>j OTI lyy<op/v ij TJJV elpiijvyjv AA 7Tpio~TaTixa rjcrav oyp^ T^TTOV 7r/<po/3a. 'H rip;o"<7/a V ^EArjcrc va TrapaBc^flrj aTroAyTcoj xa va y p/rj Iv HeTpoyTro'Ajt Taj TrpOTacrejj TOU xo'arjToj 'EcrT=p^a^yj* 6 Ss OpcoVvo? Tap^ySpOftoc, TO opyavov Toy TrpcoflyTroypyoy TW j 'AyyA/ac Aop^ou rTaAjaspaToov, ftr; 7ro"Tya;v OT< ^ *PJO~(7/a ScAsi TrapaSgp^^ Taj 7rpoTo-j X/vaj, aAA* yTroOsVwv OTI 7raAv fifiAf* aya/3aA=< T^V xpicriv TWV Trpay^aTwy Sja |5aSioyp'yiaJV, yTrgSs/xvygy coj <^0|Srpaj Topyovaj Taf vauTxao" xa* <7TpaTia)T*xaj yvajU,ij Trjj Aycrscoc, xai jU<aA<o~Ta yj7riA=i civwc TJJV Upwcrcriav, Aya)v OT* gyxoAa)T5pa T>]J Trpoj Tr)v Mocrp^av <vai r^ Trpoj TO BgpoATvov ayoycra <^ayepa TCO 6Tpw TCOV Siajxap^o^svcoy jU-spwv. EJc TayTa a7TxpJVTOj TpoTiov Tiva. TO opyavov Toy TrpawuTroypyoD Trj Hpwo~o~/aj OTI >j T^r / " llpcoo-o-ia, e Attitude ot Sweden and Denmark. va Trgp^povijar;, xa* OT< oA)j o-up,<Z>wvoL><ra pera Tr}$ 7ipo$ Taj aa~ei$ TOU 'AvaToAixoy ^r y Tr;/xaTOj, etvaj r /y,o~'y oAa*j SuvajO-scriv slj T>JV aTroxaTacTTacriV T 8*xa/cov xat jCteTp/wv. 'H ^oyrjbYa elp^s o-yvo/j(,oAoy)i(7 Trpoj Taj SyTixaj Ayva/Xij , TTJV OTro/av xoivcoj I3jcop>jo~av a>j /Sfibaiov ep) o~y/jt.jaap^/aj xai 7n/x,a^<aj xaTa T^ lxcrTpaT/av, xa) oA/ycv |x=Ta TayTa ayrjyyc'A\TO OTI xa< y; Aav/a 115 aurrj e\/U(T>j u<rTepov, xa* a>f Trpoj T>JV xai a> 7rpo T jU-sAXovra /SouAeujxara at)i%* aXAa Sev aju,<*/3oAa or* a TIJV |,Ta<rTa<nv rrjj Auvajotecoj rauryjj xare/3aA AOVTO TroAAai TRANSLATION OF SPECIMENS FROM GREEK NEWSPAPER, " THE AMALTHEA/' PUBLISHED AT SMYRNA. i. Commercial Intelligence. COMMERCIAL PART. n account of the nearness of the Easter holidays little business is being transacted in any of our various kinds of imports. In sugars alone, on account of the shortness of the supply, is a rise of prices to be noted, and American sugars went off at pi. 320 and French at 280 on account. Exports. Opium. A few sales were effected at pias. 116. Madders. At 302-303, with little doing. Grains (Dye). A little business transacted at 6-6, 20 piastres. Valonia. Inactivity. Prices, piastres 60-70. Waxes. Purified. Pias. 950. Cereals. A fall. Wheat, pias. 25-32. Barley, U-12. Flour, 50-110. Exchange of Smyrna. With the Turkish pound at 108 piastres. London ...... 118. Marseilles ...... 186. Trieste ...... 464467. ii. Return of Commerce of Trelisondfor 1855. The influence of the causes which contributed in the year 1854? to augment the commerce of Trebisond continued to to operate throughout the year 1855 also. In this year 1855, the entries inwards at Trebisond ^^ Steamers. Bailing vessels Sailing vessels , p } with cargo. without cargo. Austrian .45 2 47 English. .28 8 36 French 2 2 Greek 2 2 Norwegian .02 2 Turk . . 36 4 40 73 50 6 The outward bound 73 15 34 122 116 The total value of the imports of this year amounted to about 600 millions of piastres of which : Austrian steamers imported about 180,000,000 paistres value. English 135,000,000 Austrian sailing vessels 480,000 English 2,460,000 Greek 2,470,000 Norwegian 8,000,000 Turk 12,000,000 iii. Return of Commerce of Sams oun for 1855. We here publish a return of the commerce of Samsoun fbr t"he 1855. This return is trustworthy, as it was compiled from sources of undoubted authority. In the year 1855 much more business was transacted than in 1854, so much so that the amount of exports and imports was doubled. Speaking generally, the movements of the market were active, and would have been more so, had the means of communication with the interior been on a better footing. Unfortunately, the dangerous state of the roads does not allow of a speedy and regular transport of goods as required. Thanks, however, to the excessive prices offered for cereals, one was enabled to act upon the resources of the inte- rior to a certain extent. The allied armies drew from these parts a large quantity of beeves and other horned cattle, and this branch of commerce would have received a great develop- ment if the epidemic had not broken out and destroyed above 15,000 head of cattle. More woven stuffs were imported in 1855 than in 1854, and the whole quantity was disposed of owing to the opera- tion of the following causes : First, the abundance of money circulating among the natives who received it in exchange for the sale of their produce. Secondly, the destruction of 700 bales of stuffs by a fire at the commercial meeting at Zile. By these causes and by the presence of many buyers, prices were kept up. Here follows the table of exports and imports : Exports. 27,867 beeves value in piastres 8,362,800 31,094 sheep 2,238,768 3,547 goats and lambs 255,384 1,897 horses 1,709,100 196 mules 70,560 1,000 camels 11,440,000 4,605 quintals of iriviyoup 221,040 1,735 butter 916,080 4,480 coals 161,280 117 6,000 kilos, of oats 687,758 corn 88,612 white wheat 400 red wheat 512,000 barley 50,162 quintals of flour 20,772 hay and straw 22,324 fs/3/0ia 65,100 charcoal 5,892 bales, stuff, &c. 29,000 quintals of biscuit 1,048 ' ^Tracrroup/xa 16,043 plates of un wrought copper 1,007 chests of wrought copper 8,504 quintals of rice 894 suet 24,990 bales of tobacco 179 silk value in piastres 108,000 33,012,384 2,126,904 48,000 21,504,204 4,414,568 1,096,592 650,400 1,562,400 5,656,520 4,176,000 62,880 12,512,330 725,040 1,426,000 375,480 11,995,200 1,718,404 Total in piastres, 119,887,714 Imports value in piastres 44 chests of steel 5,312 quintals coffee 665 chests of paper 418 iron ware 596 bales of hides (leather?) 622 thread 3,623 quintals of iron 16,769 bales of woven stuffs, &c. 330 quintals of pepper 7,784 chests of soap 215 earthenware vessels, &c. 715 bales of canvas 4,595 quintals of sugar Total in piastres 25,378,184 In 1855 there entered inwards at the Port of Samsoun, 449 vessels ; viz. Steamers. 21,120 1,912,320 635,900 50,163 1,072,808 1,126,800 1,079,116 16,095,360 67,200 470,400 387,000 256,400 2,203,600 English Turk - Austrian French Sardinian - Neapolitan - Tuscan - 70 - 18 - 45 - 23 - 2 - 55 - 2 ig Vessels. Total. 99 169 132 150 11 56 19 42 23 25 3 5 2 Total 449 118 Warlike tone of English press. " The Times.' " The Morning Post." iv. " Leader " on " Eastern Question" Jan. 24, 1856. Let us take a short review of the condition of affairs which prevailed previously to the announcement of the unexpected intelligence from which the world has drawn fresh hopes. This condition was a remarkable one on many accounts, and especially so with reference to the tone and position assumed by the English press. Its whole bearing was to the last degree warlike. With the angry eye of an assailant, it surveyed the whole Russian empire from one end of the earth to the other, searching out its more accessible and vulnerable points. It kept reckoning over and over again the old and new ships and armies of maritime England, and recounting all the marvellous inventions which English ingenuity was preparing for the approaching, the decisive, campaign against Russia ; it pointed out to the Generals and Admirals of the allied forces where and how they were to inflict the fatal stroke on the formidable power of the north. But when any voice was heard to recommend in the interests of humanity that an end should be put to the great struggle by means of a Congress of the Powers, " The Times " said with warmth, " Rather than refer the decision of our differences to a Congress in which Russia will be all-powerful by means of the votes of her retainers and hirelings, we choose that the sword decide between us ; it is, it is true, an undiscriminating, but it is ever an impar- tial judge. We did not draw it without knowing what sacrifices it would demand, and we will not sheathe it without surer guarantees than such as the wisdom or sin- cerity of a Congress of European Princes can furnish." Certainly from language such as this no one could conjecture that we were on the eve of a peace ; and, besides these, there were other circumstances complicating the affair, which wore an equally threatening aspect. Prussia would not accept and support in St. Petersburg!! absolutely and without condition the propositions of Count Esterhazy, and " The Morning Post/' the organ of the Prime Minister of England, Lord Palmerston, not believing that Russia would accept those propositions, but supposing that she would again defer the settlement of the matter by her intrigues, held up in terrorem the naval and military forces of the Western Powers, and particularly threw out some threatening hints to Prussia, saying, that that power might one day learn that the road to Berlin was easier than that to Moscow, if it did not at last determine to range itself openly with one or other of the contending parties. The of the Prussian Prime Minister made some sort of 119 reply to this, saying, that Prussia remained true to the principles she had already once proclaimed, and that she had, in support of them, such a military force in readiness to take the field as no power could afford to despise ; and that the whole of Germany, not excepting Austria, was agreed with Prussia as to the basis of the Eastern question, and was ready to co-operate with all its forces towards the re-establishment of peace on a just and equitable basis. Sweden had concluded the celebrated treaty with the Attitude of Western Powers, which was commonly regarded as a rtain forerunner of another treaty for an offensive and de- nsive alliance, to be made in anticipation of the coming campaign ; and, shortly after this, it was announced, that Denmark proposed following Sweden's example. The truth of this announcement was subsequently denied, both with reference to the present views and future intentions of Denmark ; but there is no doubt that much exertion had been used to bring over this power to the side of the allies. BOTANICAL NOTES.* 1 . Since the general distribution of plants is as greatly affected by the character of the soil as by climate, light, heat, moisture, and other physical agents, it should be stated that the neighbourhood of Smyrna is characterized by three principal geological formations, viz. : 1, porphyritic rock ; 2, limestone ; 3, alluvial deposit. There are, however, not wanting examples of volcanic formations, and especially of a coarse conglomerate rock. 2. The higher ranges of hills which surround the Bay of Smyrna, and bound the fertile plains to the eastward, are all of limestone, a hard gritty limestone, containing organic remains sparingly. These hills, with their characteristic outline, form the principal feature in the landscape of the country. 3. But here and there, especially on the south side of the bay, the porphyry crops out, and takes an important part both in the geology and botany of the district. At the back of the city, to the S.S.E., and bearing part of the city on its foot, rises " Mount Pagus" to some 600 feet. This is a bold rocky height, almost isolated from the other hills, but sending out two great spurs to the west and south. The external characters as well as the vegetation of this tract of igneous rock contrast strongly with those of the limestone. * Communicated by Edward Atkinson, Esq., late assistant surgeon to tlie Hospital at Smyrna. 120 4. The alluvial soil of the plains would not require special notice were we speaking of the geology of the dis- trict alone ; but when regarded in connexion with its vegetation, it of course acquires a right to be considered par excellence. There are several extensive plains in the vicinity ; of these the two principal are those of Boudjah and Hadjilar. The former is elevated on a table of lime- stone hills, has but a shallow soil, which partakes much of the character of the rock, and its flora is determined accord- ingly. The latter is scarcely above the level of the sea, and seems to have been formed by the deposit of rivers, though there is now no stream traversing it of sufficient size to add materially to its present extent. It is covered with a deep and rich soil, whose produce is luxuriant in the extreme. 5. To attribute to each part of a district where the nature of the soil chanced to differ an entirely distinct flora, would undoubtedly be incorrect, but it is very true (and nowhere more strikingly than here) that those plants and shrubs which have the most decided elective property (if I may use the expression) almost invariably form the most prominent objects that meet the eye, and so characterize the spot at the first glance. 6. The granite or porphyry tract is much less clothed with shrubs than the limestone, and seldom produces any but a few stunted bushes of cratsegus oxycantha, pyrus communis, amygdalus communis (wild almond), and other rosaceous plants. In June and July, however, when almost all around is either fading or already destroyed by the voracious locusts, the shadier nooks of these rocks shelter the bright green of a beautiful asclepiad (schubertia multiflora}, whose sweet- scented flowers are well protected by their poisonous quality. This formation, however, though lacking plants of larger growth, is in no want of floral beauty. The delightful spring, which commences about the 15th of March, and lasts till the end of May, clothes the hill sides with hundreds of brilliant flowers among which the scarlet and blue ane- mones of our gardens, and some half dozen species of scilla, are the most conspicuous. 7. The flora of the limestone tract is much more varied and striking. In the lower parts of the hills, and in the valleys, there is abundance of evergreen oak (quercus ilex), and several members of the N.O. anacardiacese or terebinth family e. g., the pistacia terebinthus (yielding the famous Chian turpentine), the P. lentiscus, which, under favourable circumstances, yields the mastic of commerce. [The only place where it is now cultivated for this purpose is in a small part of the Isle of Scio. Numbers of similar localities 121 might perhaps be made available in the different islands of the Archipelago.] The Rhus cotinus also grows here to a height of eighteen or twenty feet. The barer parts of the hills have large tracts of low brushwood formed of the ilex, P. lentiscus, poterium spinosum, and other thorny or aromatic shrubs. Lavender, origanum, and many other dwarf woody herbs of the mint tribe are common. On the higher plains the wild olive, the myrtle, and the stone pine predominate while the still higher uplands and ridges are clad with a perfect thicket of arbutus unedo, A. andrachne quercus infectoria several ericee, &c. The course of the mountain streams is always indicated by a fringe of oleanders, as the salt marshes on the south side of the bay are invariably bordered by the feathery tama- risk. As might have been expected, the limestone district abounds in orchids and ophryds, some of which aie exceed- ingly singular. The high plains, too, are remarkable for their composite plants. 8. The flora of the alluvial plains is of course far more extensive, and embraces representatives of many more natural orders than the other two together. The hedges that bound the green lanes are composed chiefly of myrtle, yellow jasmine, laburnum, and ilex, overrun with clematis and honeysuckle. Here and there occur fine bushes of the paliurus australis or Christ's thorn, or else the rose-coloured masses of the circsea judaica or Judas tree. These plains abound chiefly in leguminous and solanaceous plants. To which I may add cruciferse and labiatse. The umbelliferous plants of this district are not numerous, though perhaps the frequency of some few species might mislead a superficial observer as to the number of species. The commonest of all is the Smyrnium olusatrum, which probably takes its name from the city. It overruns all the cemeteries, and seems to thrive best in the cypress shade. The momordica elaterium, or squirting cucumber, is a weed everywhere, but especially on the rocky hill used as a burial ground by the Jews. 9. As to timber, there is scarcely any but pine grown in the country, all other is imported from the Black Sea or elsewhere. There are, however, some large plane trees to be found in the neighbourhood, but not sufficient for build- ing purposes. There is no forest, properly so called, in the district. Native walnut and olive wood are used for cabinet-making, and the saplings of lemon, cherry, bay, apricot, hazel, jasmine, and wild-rose, are all used for the manufacture of pipe stems staple article of produce. Cypresses afford the tallest I 122 timber of any grown in the country ; but these do not appear to be ever planted out of the cemeteries, where they some- times attain a height of 120 feet, with a girth of 8 or 10 feet or more. I have, nevertheless, seen them occasionally felled and turned to account. In some places a tall poplar is cul- tivated for scaffolding poles, but they do not reach a great height near Smyrna. 10. In almost all countries there are some wild plants used as common food by the lower classes. So here the people eat the malva sylvestris, sinapis arvensis, taraxacum, and cichorium, &c. &c. But their greatest delicacy is a dish of the young shoots of tamus communis (the black briony)^ which they eat boiled, very much after the fashion of aspa- ragus. The young plant of papaver dubium is also eaten, uncooked, as a salad, and I have been told by several people that in the winter the Greeks of Smyrna boil and eat as a luxury the corms of the muscari glutinosum (a grape hya- cinth). Besides these the Turks, but more especially the Greeks, use a variety of seeds, roots, and leaves for food ; parched maize is a common article of diet among the poor Jews. I have tried, but without success, to discover from what species of orchids the salep of commerce is derived. It is brought from some miles inland, and may, therefore, belong to a plant I never met with. The leaves of Smyrnium olusatrum (alexanders) are stewed and eaten commonly, and the seeds are also used in condiments. The most ordinary vegetables which the Smyrna market supplies, are all of the solanaceous family [e. g., tomatoes (lycopersicum esculentum), brinjols (solanum melongena), capsicums], or of the cucur- bitaceous order, as all manner of gourds, pumpkins, and melons. The potato is not much cultivated near Smyrna, but is very largely imported. 1 ] . Medicinally there are many plants made use of, and indeed the people are, like all Orientals, most faithful herbalists ; but little comparatively can be known of their system, so long as the herb-doctors' craft is in vogue and their secrets therefore worth keeping. A few herbs, how- ever, I learned the use of. The marrubium vulgare, for instance, (the horehound,) is in great requisition for diarrhoea, and the plantago coronopus or buckshorn plantain for haemorrhoids ; Thalictrum vulgare (rue) for melancholia, or to avert an evil omen ; and aristolochia longa for uterine diseases and infantile convulsions. The vitex-castus was said formerly by Forskahl to be used in Smyrna for colic ; but though that aromatic shrub is exceedingly common there, I could not learn that it was a remedy in general use. This vitex is especially frequent on the plains of 123 Bondjah, Sedikioi, and the R. Cayster, and sometimes assumes the importance of a tree. 12. Among the many medicinal plants indigenous to this locality may be enumerated, momordica elaterium, cotyle- don umbilicus, carum carui, coriandrum sativum, sambucus nigra, anthemis nobilis, olea Europsea, erythrea centaurium, convolvulus scammonia, inula Helenium, valeriana officinalis, mentha viridis, &c. ; origanum, marrubium, lavandula, &c. ; ruta (thalictrum) graveolens, scilla maritima, laurus nobilis, pistacia terebinthus, and P. lentiscus ; foeniculum offic., amygdalus comm., solanum dulcamara, and datura stramo- nium. All the gum scammony exported from Smyrna, its only habitat as far as we are concerned, is collected from wild plants, which grow in thickets and hedge bottoms. There seems no sufficient reason why the cultivation of this ex- ceedingly costly drug should not be successful elsewhere ; it needs shade, support, a dryish light sandy soil, pure air, and little interference. But surely this would be worth an attempt, considering its present value. The mandragora officinalis or mandrake is said to be found near Smyrna, and is the subject there, as elsewhere, of all the old super- stitions. The sesamum orientale or sesame and the capparis spinosa or caper plant are both worthy of notice as common plants in the vicinity. LONDON: Printed by GBOKOE E. EYRE and WILLIAM SPOTTISWOODE, Printers to the Queen's most Excellent Majesty. For Her Majesty's Stationery Office. 642-256914 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED DOCUMENTS DEPT. This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. LD 21-20m-8,'61 (Cl795slO)476 General Library University of California Berkeley 34239