University of California Berkeley 
 
 From the Collection of 
 JOSEPH Z. TODD 
 
 Gift of 
 Hatherly B. Todd 
 
<~ 
 
 
<iu.\xn FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE AND OLD FArnmi. (IKYSKU. 
 
THE 
 
 Yellowstone National Park 
 
 HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE 
 
 Illustrated with Maps, Views and Portraits 
 
 BY 
 
 HIRAM MARTIN CHITTENDEN 
 
 CAPTAIN, CORPS OF ENGINEERS, UNITED STATES ARMY 
 
 CINCINNATI 
 
 THE ROBERT CLARKE COMPANY 
 1895 
 
COPYRIGHT, 1895, 
 BY HIRAM MARTIN CHITTENDEN. 
 
TO THE MEMORIES OF 
 
 AND 
 
 games 
 
 PIONEERS IN THE WONDERLAND 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Hello ro*tmi?. 
 
PREFACE, 
 
 Twenty -five years ago, this date, a company of gen- 
 tlemen were encamped at the Forks of the Madison 
 River in what is now the Yellowstone National Park. 
 They had just finished the first complete tour of explor- 
 ation ever made of that region. Fully realizing the im- 
 portance of all they had seen, they asked what ought 
 to be done to preserve so unique an assemblage of 
 wonders to the uses for which Nature had evidently 
 designed them. It required no argument to show 
 that government protection alone was equal to the 
 task, and it was agreed that a movement to secure 
 such protection should be inaugurated at once. So 
 rapidly did events develop along the line of this idea, 
 that within the next eighteen months the "Act of 
 Dedication " had become a law, and the Yellowstone 
 National Park took its place in our country's history. 
 
 The widespread interest which the discovery of this 
 region created among civilized peoples has in no de- 
 gree diminished with the lapse of time. In this coun- 
 try particularly the Park to-day stands on a firmer 
 basis than ever before. The events of the past two 
 
 (v) 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 years, in matters of legislation and administration, 
 have increased many fold the assurances of its con- 
 tinued preservation, and have shown that even the 
 petty local hostility, which has now and then men- 
 aced its existence, is yielding to a wiser spirit of 
 patriotism. 
 
 The time therefore seems opportune, in passing so 
 important an epoch in the history of the Park, and 
 while many of the actors in its earlier scenes are still 
 among us, to collect the essential facts, historical and 
 descriptive, relating to this region, and to place them 
 in form for permanent preservation. The present lit- 
 erature of the Park, although broad in scope and ex- 
 haustive in detail, is unfortunately widely scattered, 
 somewhat difficult of access, and in matters of early 
 history, notably deficient. To supply a work which 
 shall form a complete and connected treatment of the 
 subject, is the purpose of the present volume. 
 
 It deals first and principally with the history of the 
 Upper Yellowstone from the days of Lewis and Clark 
 to the present time. The main text is supplemented 
 by a considerable amount of appendical matter, the 
 most important features of which are a complete list 
 of the geographical names of the Park, with their 
 origin and signification ; a few biographical sketches 
 of the early explorers ; and a bibliography of the lit- 
 erature pertaining to this region. 
 
 The descriptive portion of the work contains a sue- 
 
PREFACE. Vll 
 
 cinct, though comprehensive, treatment of the various 
 scientific and popular features of the Park. While it 
 is sufficient for all the requirements of ordinary in- 
 formation, it purposely refrains from a minute discus- 
 sion of those details which have been, or are now 
 being, exhaustively treated by the scientific depart- 
 ments of the government. 
 
 In describing a region whose fame rests upon its 
 natural wonders, the assistance of the illustrative art 
 has naturally been resorted to. The various accom- 
 panying maps have all been prepared especially for 
 this work and are intended to set forth not only pres- 
 ent geography but historical features as well. The 
 folded map embodies every tiling to date from the 
 latest geographical surveys. It will bear careful study, 
 and this has been greatly simplified by a system of 
 marginal references to be used with the list of names 
 in Appendix A. 
 
 The illustrations cover every variety of subject in 
 the Park and represent the best results of photographic 
 work in that region. They are mostly from the studio 
 of Mr. F. J. Haynes, of St. Paul, the well-known 
 Park photographer, who has done so much by his art 
 to disseminate a knowledge of the woudera of the 
 Yellowstone. A considerable number are from views 
 taken during the Hayden surveys by Mr. William II. 
 Jackson, now of Denver, Colorado. A few excellent 
 subjects are from the amateur work of Captain C. M. 
 
Vlll PREFACE. 
 
 Gandy, Assistant Surgeon, U. S. A., who was stationed 
 for some year's on duty in the Park. The portraits 
 are restricted to the few early explorers who visited 
 the Upper Yellowstone prior to the creation of the 
 Park. 
 
 To any one who is familiar with the recent history 
 of the Pai*k, a work like the present would seem in- 
 (fbmplete without some reference to those influences 
 which endanger its future existence. A brief discus- 
 sion of this subject is accordingly presented, which, 
 without considering particular schemes, exposes the 
 dangerous tendencies underlying them all. 
 
 In the course of a somewhat extended correspond- 
 ence connected with the preparation of this work, the 
 author has become indebted for much information 
 that could not be found in the existing literature of 
 the Park. He desires in this place to return his 
 sincere acknowledgments to all who have assisted 
 him, and to refer in a special manner 
 
 To the Hon. K P. Langford, of St. Paul, whose 
 long acquaintance with the Upper Yellowstone coun- 
 try has made him an authority upon its history. 
 
 To Dr. Elliott Coues, of Washington, D. C., who 
 has contributed, besides much general assistance, the 
 essential facts relating to the name " Yellowstone." 
 
 To Captain George S. Anderson, 6th U. S. Cavalry, 
 Superintendent of the Park, for the use of his ex- 
 tensive collection of Park literature. 
 
PREFACE. IX 
 
 To Prof. Arnold Hague, and others, of the U. S. 
 Geological Survey, for many important favors. 
 
 To Prof. J. D. Butler, of Madisou, Wis., for bio- 
 graphical data relating to James Bridger. 
 
 To Dr. R. Ellsworth Call, of Cincinnati, Ohio, for 
 valuable assistance pertaining to the entire work. 
 
 To the Hon. D. M. Browning, Commissioner of 
 Indian Affairs, for important data relating to the 
 Indian tribes in the vicinity of the Yellowstone Park. 
 
 To the officers of the War and Interior Depart- 
 ments, the U. S. Fish Commission, the U. S. Bureau 
 of Ethnology, and of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic 
 Survey, for public documents and other information 
 of great value. 
 
 To R. T. Durrett, LL.D., of Louisville, Ky.; Mr. 
 J. G. Morrison, of the Library of Congress, Washing- 
 ton, D. C.; Mr. J. D. Losecamp, of Billings, Mont.; 
 Mr. George Bird Grinnell, of Forest and Stream., New 
 York City ; Major James F. Gregory, Corps of En- 
 gineers, U. S. A.; Lieutenant Wm. II. Bean, Second 
 Cavalry, U. S. A.; Hon. David E. Folsom, White 
 Sulphur Springs, Mont.; Washington Mathews, Ma- 
 jor and Surgeon, U. S. A.; Dr. A. C. Peale, of Phila- 
 delphia, Pa.; William Hallett Phillips, of Washing- 
 ton, D. C.; Dr. Lyman B. Sperry, of Bellevue, O.; 
 Mrs. Matilda Cope Stevenson, of Washington, D. C.; 
 Mrs. Sirena J. Washburn, of Greencastle, Ind.; Miss 
 Isabel Jelke, of Cincinnati, O.; Mr. O. B. Wheeler, 
 
XI 1 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. Flora of the Yellowstone 187 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. The Park as a Health Resort 193 
 
 CHAPTER IX. The Park in Winter 198 
 
 CHAPTER X. Roads, Hotels, and Transportation 201 
 
 CHAPTER XI. Administration of the Park 206 
 
 CHAPTER XII. A. Tour of the Park Preliminary 209 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. A Tour of the Park North Boundary to 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs 211 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. A Tour of the Park Mammoth Hot Springs 
 
 to Norris Geyser Basin 217 
 
 CHAPTER XV. A Tour of the Park Norris Geyser Basin to 
 
 Lower Geyser Basin 221 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. A Tour of the Park Lower Geyser Basin 
 
 to Upper Geyser Basin 228 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. A Tour of the Park Upper Geyser Basin 
 
 to Yellowstone Lake 237 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. A Tour of the Park Yellowstone Lake to 
 
 the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone 248 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. A Tour of the Park Grand Canon of the 
 
 Yellowstone to Junction Valley 260 
 
 PART III. THE FUTURE. 
 
 CHAPTER I. Hostility to the Park 267 
 
 CHAPTER II. Railroad Encroachment and Change of Bound- 
 ary 270 
 
 CHAPTER III. Conclusion 281 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 GEOGRAPHICAL NAMES IN THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.. 285 
 
 I. Introductory 285 
 
 II. Mountain Peaks 289 
 
 III. Streams 313 
 
 IV. Water-falls... . 324 
 
CONTENTS. Xlll 
 
 V. Lakes 327 
 
 VI. Miscellaneous Features 338 
 
 VII. Geysers 342 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS NOW IN FORCE ..FFECTING THE 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 345 
 
 APPENDIX C. 
 
 APPROPRIATIONS ON ACCOUNT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL 
 
 PARK 357 
 
 APPENDIX D. 
 
 LIST OF SUPERINTENDENTS OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL 
 
 PARK 359 
 
 APPENDIX E. 
 BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 361 
 
The Yellowstone National Park. 
 
 PART I. Historical. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 " YELLOWSTONE." 
 
 Lewis and Clark passed the first winter of their 
 famous trans-continental expedition among the Man- 
 dan Indians, on the Missouri River, sixty-six miles 
 above the present capital of North Dakota. When 
 ahout to resume their journey in the spring of 1805, 
 they sent back to President Jefferson a report of 
 progress and a map of the western country based 
 upon information derived from the Indians. In this 
 report and upon this map appear for the first time, 
 in any official document, the words " Yellow Stone " 
 as the name of the principal tributary of the Mis- 
 souri. 
 
 It seems, however, that Lewis and Clark were not 
 the first actually to use the name. David Thompson, 
 the celebrated explorer and geographer, prominently 
 identified with the British fur trade in the North- 
 west, was among the Mandan Indians on the Mis- 
 souri River from December 29, 1797, to January 10, 
 1798. While there he secured data, mostly from the 
 natives, from which he estimated the latitude and 
 
 (l) 
 
2 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 longitude of the source of the Yellowstone River. In 
 his original manuscript journal and field note-books, 
 containing the record of his determinations, the words 
 " Yellow Stone " appear precisely as used by Lewis 
 and dark in 1805. This is, perhaps, the first use of 
 the name in its Anglicised form, and it is certainly 
 the first attempt to determine accurately the geo- 
 graphical location of the source of the stream.* 
 
 Neither Thompson nor Lewis and Clark were 
 originators of the name. They gave us only the 
 English translation of a name already long in use. 
 "This river," say Lewis and Clark, in their journal 
 for the day of their arrival at the mouth of the now 
 noted stream, " had been known to the French as the 
 Roche Jaune, or, as we have called it, the Yellow 
 Stone." The French name was, in fact, already 
 firmly established among the traders and trappers of 
 the North-west Fur Company, when Lewis and Clark 
 met them among the Mandans. Even by the mem- 
 bers of the expedition it seems to have been more 
 generally used than the new English form ; and the 
 spellings, " Rejone," " Rejhone," " Rochejone," "Roche- 
 john," and " Rochejhone," are among their various 
 attempts to render orthographically the French pro- 
 nunciation. 
 
 * Thompson's estimate : 
 
 Latitude, 43 39' 45" north. 
 
 Longitude, 109 43' 17" west. 
 Yount Peak, source of the Yellowstone (Hayden) : 
 
 Latitude, 43 57' north. 
 
 Longitude, 109 52 X west. 
 Thompson's error: 
 
 In latitude, 17' 15". 
 
 In longitude, 8' 43", or about 21 miles. 
 
" YELLOWSTONE." 3 
 
 Probably the name would have been adopted un- 
 changed, as so many other French names in our 
 geography have been, except for the recent cession 
 of Louisiana to the United States. The policy which 
 led the government promptly to explore, and take 
 formal possession of, its extensive acquisition, led it 
 also, as part of the process of rapid Americanization, 
 to give English names to all of the more prominent 
 geographical features. In the case of the name here 
 under consideration, this was no easy matter. The 
 French form had already obtained wide currency, and 
 it was reluctantly set aside for its less familiar trans- 
 lation. As late as 1817, it still appeared in newly 
 English-printed books,* while among the traders and 
 trappers of the mountains, it survived to a much later 
 period.- 
 
 By whom the name Roche Jaune, or its equivalent 
 form Pierre Jaune, was first used, it would be ex- 
 tremely interesting to know; but it is impossible to 
 determine at this late day. Like their successor, 
 " Yellow Stone," these names were not originals, but 
 only translations. The Indian tribes along the Yel- 
 lowstone and upper Missouri rivers had names for the 
 tributary stream signifying " yellow rock," f and the 
 French had doubtless adopted them long before any 
 of their number saw the stream itself. 
 
 The first explorations of the country comprised 
 within the present limits of the State of Montana are 
 matters of great historic uncertainty. By one account 
 it appears that, between the years 1738 and 1753, 
 
 * Bradbury's- " Travels in the Interior of America." See Ap- 
 pendix E. 
 t The name " Elk River " was also used among the Crow Indians. 
 
4 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, the Sieur de la Veren- 
 drye,. and his sons, particularly the Chevalier de la 
 Verendrye, conducted parties of explorers westward 
 from Lake Superior to the Assinnaboine River, thence 
 south to the Mandan country, and thence to the very 
 sources of the Missouri. Even the date, January 12, 
 1743, is given for their first ascent of the Rocky 
 Mountains. But such is the dearth of satisfactory 
 evidence relating to these explorations, that positive 
 inferences concerning them are impossible. The 
 most that can be said is, that if De la Verendrye 
 visited these regions, as is generally believed, to him 
 doubtless belongs the honor of having adopted from 
 original sources the name of the Yellowstone River. 
 
 The goal of De la Verendrye' s explorations was the 
 Pacific Ocean ; but the French and Indian war which 
 robbed France of her dominion in America, prevented 
 his ever reaching it. Following him, at the distance 
 of nearly half a century, came the traders and trap- 
 pers of the North-west Fur Company. As already 
 noted, they were among the Mandans as early as 1797, 
 and the name Roche Jaune was in common use among 
 them in 1804. They appear to have been wholly ig- 
 norant of the work of De la Verendrye, and it is- 
 quite certain that, prior to 1805, none of them had 
 reached the Yellowstone River. Lewis and Clark 
 particularly record the fact, while yet some distance 
 below the junction of this river with the Missouri, 
 that they had already passed the utmost limit of pre- 
 vious adventure by white men. Whatever, therefore, 
 was at this time known of the Yellowstone could 
 have come to these traders only from Indian sources. 5 * 1 
 
 * An interesting reference to the name " Yellowstone," ui an. 
 
" YELLOWSTONE. O 
 
 We thus find that the name, which has now become 
 so celebrated, descends to us, through two transla- 
 tions, from those native races whose immemorial 
 dwelling-place had been along the stream which it 
 describes. What it was that led them to use the 
 name is easily discoverable. The Yellowstone River 
 is pre-eminently a river with banks of yellow rock. 
 Along its lower course " the flood plain is bordered 
 by high bluffs of yellow sandstone." Near the mouth 
 of the Bighorn River stands the noted landmark, 
 Pompey's Pillar, " a high isolated rock " of the same 
 material. Still further up, beyond the mouth of 
 Clark's fork, is an extensive ridge of yellow rock, the 
 " sheer, vertical sides " of which, according to one 
 writer, " gleam in the sunlight like massive gold." 
 All along the lower river, in fact, from its mouth to 
 
 entirely different quarter, occurs on Pike's'map of the " Internal 
 Provinces of Spain," published in 1810. It is a corrupt Spanish 
 translation in the form of "Rio de Piedro Amaretto del Missouri" 
 (intended of course to be Rio de la Piedra Amarilla del Missouri) 
 river of the Yellow Stone of the Missouri. No clue has been dis- 
 covered of the source from which Pike received this name ; but 
 the fact of its existence need occasion no surprise. The Spanish 
 had long traded as far north as the Shoshone country, and had 
 mingled with the French traders along the lower Missouri. Lewis 
 and Clark found articles of their manufacture among the Sho- 
 shones in 1805. There is also limited evidence of early intercourse 
 between them and the Crow nation. That the name of so im- 
 portant a stream as the Yellowstone should have become known 
 to these traders is therefore not at all remarkable. There is; how- 
 ever, no reason to suppose that the Spanish translation antedates 
 the French. It certainly plays no part in the descent of the name 
 from the original to the English form, and it is of interest in this 
 connection mainly as showing that, even at this early day, the 
 name had found its way to the provinces of the south. 
 
6 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 the Great Bend at Livingston, this characteristic is 
 more or less strikingly present. 
 
 Whether it forms a sufficiently prominent feature of 
 the landscape to justify christening the river from it, 
 may appear to be open to doubt. At any rate the 
 various descriptions of this valley by early explorers 
 rarely refer to the same locality as being conspicuous 
 from the presence of yellow rock. Some mention it 
 in one place, some in another. Nowhere does it seem 
 to have been so striking as to attract the attention of 
 all observers. For this reason we shall go further in 
 search of the true origin of the name, to a locality 
 about which there can be no doubt, no difference of 
 opinion. 
 
 Seventy -five miles below the ultimate source of the 
 river lies the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone, dis- 
 tinguished among the notable canons of the globe by 
 the marvelous coloring of its walls. Conspicuous 
 among its innumerable tints is yellow. Every shade, 
 from the brilliant plumage of the yellow bird to the 
 rich saffron of the orange, greets the eye in bewilder- 
 ing profusion. There is indeed other color, unparal- 
 leled in variety and abundance, but the ever-present 
 background of all is the beautiful fifth color of the 
 spectrum. 
 
 So prominent is this feature that it never fails to 
 attract attention, and all descriptions of the Canon 
 abound in references to it. Lieutenant Doane (1870) 
 notes the "brilliant yellow color" of the rocks. Cap- 
 tain Barlow and Doctor Hayden (1871) refer, in almost 
 the same words, to the " yellow, nearly vertical walls." 
 Raymond (1871) speaks of the "bright yellow of the 
 sulphury clay." Captain Jones (1873) says that " about 
 
" YELLOWSTONE." 7 
 
 and in the Grand Canon the rocks are nearly all tinged 
 a brilliant yellow." These early impressions might be 
 repeated from the writings of every subsequent visitor 
 who has described the scenery of the Yellowstone. 
 
 That a characteristic which so deeply moves the 
 modern heholder should have made a profound im- 
 pression on the mind of the Indian, need hardly be 
 premised. This region was hy no means unknown to 
 him; and from the remote, although uncertain, period 
 of his first acquaintance with it, the name of the river 
 has undoubtly descended. 
 
 Going back, then, to this obscure fountain-head, the 
 original designation is found to have been 
 
 Mi tsi a-da-zi* Rock Yellow River. 
 
 And this, in the French tongue, became 
 
 Roche Jaune and Pierre Jaune ; 
 
 and in English, 
 
 Yellow Rock and Yellow Stone. 
 
 Established usage now writes it 
 Yellowstone. 
 
 * Minnetaree, oue of the Siouan family of languages. 
 
THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 INDIAN OCCUPANCY OF THE UPPER YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 It is a singular fact in the history of the Yellow- 
 stone National Park that no knowledge of that country 
 seems to have been derived from the Indians. The ex- 
 planation ordinarily advanced is that the Indians had 
 a superstitious fear of the geyser regions and always 
 avoided them. Ho w far this theory is supported by the 
 results of modern research is an interesting inquiry. 
 
 Three great families of Indians, the Siouan, the Al- 
 gonquian, and the Shoshonean, originally occupied the 
 country around the sources of the Yellowstone. Of 
 these three families the following tribes are alone of 
 interest in this connection : The Crows (Absaroka) of 
 the Siouan family ; the Blackfeet (Siksika) of the Al- 
 gonquian family ; and the Bannocks (Panai'hti), the 
 Eastern Shoshones, and the Sheepeaters (Tukuarika) 
 of the Shoshonean family. 
 
 The home of the Crows was in the Valley of the Yel- 
 lowstone below the mountains where they have dwelt 
 since the white man's earliest knowledge of them. Their 
 territory extended to the mountains which bound the 
 Yellowstone Park on the north and east ; but they 
 never occupied or claimed any of the country beyond. 
 Their well-known tribal characteristics were an insa- 
 tiable love of horse-stealing and a wandering and pred- 
 atory habit which caused them to roam over all the 
 West from the Black Hills to the Bitter Root Mountains 
 and from the British Possessions to the Spanish Prov- 
 
INDIAN OCCUPANCY OF THE UPPER YELLOWSTONE. 9 
 
 inces. They were generally, although by no means 
 always, friendly to the whites, but enemies of the 
 neighboring Blackfeet and Shoshones. Physically, 
 they were a stalwart, handsome race, fine horsemen 
 and daring hunters. They were every-where encoun- 
 tered by the trapper and prospector who generally 
 feared them more on account of their thievish habits 
 than for reasons of personal safety. 
 
 The Blackfeet dwelt in the country drained by the 
 headwaters of the Missouri. Their territory was 
 roughly defined by the Crow territory on the east and 
 the Rocky Mountains on the west. Its southern limit 
 was the range of mountains along the present north- 
 west border of the Park and it extended thence to 
 the British line. The distinguishing historic trait of 
 these Indians was their settled hostility to their neigh- 
 bors whether white or Indian. They were a tribe 
 of perpetual fighters, justly characterized as the Ish- 
 maelites of their race. From the day in 1806, when 
 Captain Lewis slew one of their number, down to 
 their final subjection by the advancing power of the 
 whites, they never buried the hatchet. They were 
 the terror of the trapper and miner, and hundreds 
 of the pioneers perished at their hands. Like the 
 Crows they were a well-developed race, good horse- 
 men and great rovers, but, in fight, given to subter- 
 fuge and stratagem rather than to open boldness of 
 action. 
 
 In marked contrast with these warlike and wander- 
 ing tribes were those of the great Shoshonean family 
 who occupied the country around the southern, east- 
 ern, and western borders of the Park, including also 
 that of the Park itself. The Shoshones as a family 
 
10 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 were an inferior race. They seem to have been the 
 victims of some great misfortune which had driven 
 them to precarious methods of subsistence and had 
 made them the prey of their powerful and merciless 
 neighbors. The names " Fish-eaters," " Root-dig- 
 gers," and other opprobrious epithets, indicate the 
 contempt in which they were commonly held. For 
 the most part they had no horses, and obtained a live- 
 lihood only by the most abject means. Some of the 
 tribes, however, rose above this degraded condition, 
 owned horses, hunted buffalo, and met their enemies 
 in open conflict.. Such were the Bannocks and the 
 Eastern Shoshones tribes closely connected with the 
 history of the Park, one occupying the country to the 
 south-west near the Teton Mountains, and the other 
 that to the south-east in the valley of Wind River. 
 The Shoshones were generally friendly to the whites, 
 and for this reason they figure less prominently in the 
 books of early adventure than do the Crows and 
 Blackfeet whose acts of " sanguinary violence" were 
 a staple article for the Indian romancer. 
 
 It was an humble branch of the Shoshonean family 
 which alone is known to have permanently occupied 
 what is now the Yellowstone Park. They were called 
 Tukuarika, or, more commonly, Sheepeaters. They 
 were found in the Park country at the time of its 
 discovery and had doubtless long been there. These 
 hermits of the mountains, whom the French trappers 
 called " Us digues de pitie," have engaged the sympathy 
 or contempt of explorers since our earliest knowledge 
 of them. Utterly unfit for warlike contention, they 
 seem to have sought immunity from their dangerous 
 neighbors by dwelling among the inaccessible fast- 
 
f-A HISTORICAL CHART 
 
 '-\ or THE 
 
 LLOWSTONE NATIONAL 
 
 upp. page 11. 
 
INDIAN OCCUPANCY OP THE UPPER YELLOWSTONE. 11 
 
 nesses of the mountains. They were destitute of 
 even savage comforts. Their food, as their name in- 
 dicates, was principally the flesh of the mountain 
 sheep. Their clothing was composed of skins. They- 
 had no horses and were armed only with bows and 
 arrows. They captured game by driving it into 
 brush inclosures. Their rigorous existence left its 
 mark on their physical nature. They were feeble in 
 mind, diminutive in stature, and are always described 
 as a " timid, harmless race." They may have been 
 longer resident in this region than is commonly sup- 
 posed, for there was a tradition among them, appar- 
 ently connected with some remote period of geological 
 disturbance, that most of their race were once de- 
 stroyed by a terrible convulsion of nature. 
 
 Such were the Indian tribes who formerly dwelt 
 within or near the country now embraced in the Yel- 
 lowstone National Park. That the Sheepeaters ac- 
 tually occupied this country, and that wandering 
 bands from other tribes occasionally visited it, there 
 is abundant and conclusive proof. Indian trails,* 
 though generally indistinct, were every-\vhere found 
 by the early explorers, mostly on lines since occupied 
 by the tourist routes. One of these followed the Yel- 
 lowstone Valley entirely across the Park from north to 
 south. It divided at Yellowstone Lake, the principal 
 branch following the east shore, crossing Two-Ocean- 
 Pass, and intersecting a great trail which connected 
 the Snake and "Wind River Valleys. The other 
 branch passed along the west shore of the lake and 
 over the divide to the valleys of Snake River and 
 
 * See historical chart, opposite. 
 
12 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Jackson Lake. This trail was intersected by an im- 
 portant one in the vicinity of Conant Creek leading 
 from the Upper Snake Valley to that of Henry Fork. 
 Other intersecting trails connected the Yellowstone 
 River trail with the Madison and Firehole Basins 
 on the west and with the Bighorn Valley on the 
 -east. 
 
 The most important Indian trail in the Park, how- 
 ever, was that known as the Great Bannock Trail. 
 It extended from Henry Lake across the Gallatin 
 Range to Mammoth Hot Springs, where it was joined 
 by another coming up the valley of the Gardiner. 
 Thence it led across the Black-tail Deer plateau to 
 the ford above Tower Falls ; and thence up the Lamar 
 Valley, forking at Soda Butte, and reaching the Big- 
 horn. Valley by way of Clark's Fork and the Stinking- 
 water River. This trail was certainly a very ancient 
 .and much-traveled one. It had become a deep furrow 
 in the grassy slopes, and it is still distinctly visible in 
 places, though unused for a quarter of a century. 
 
 Additional evidence in the same direction may be 
 seen in the wide-spread distribution of implements 
 peculiar to Indian use. Arrows and spear heads have 
 been found in considerable numbers. Obsidian Clifl' 
 was an important quarry, and the open country near 
 the outlet of Yellowstone Lake a favorite camping- 
 ground. Certain implements, such as pipes, hammers, 
 and stone vessels, indicating the former presence of a 
 more civilized people, have been found to a limited 
 extent ; and some explorers have thought that a sym- 
 metrical mound in the valley of the Snake River, be- 
 low the mouth of Hart River, is of artificial origin. 
 Reference will later be made to the discovery of a 
 
INDIAN OCCUPANCY OF THE UPPER YELLOWSTONE. 1 
 
 rude granite structure near the top of the Grand 
 Teton, which is unquestionably of very ancient date. 
 
 Dr. A. C. Peale, prominently connected with the 
 early geological explorations of this region, states that 
 the Rustic Geyser in the Hart Lake Geyser Basin is 
 " bordered by logs which are coated with a crystalline, 
 semi-translucent deposit of geyserite. These logs 
 were evidently placed around the geyser by either In- 
 dians or white men a number of years ago, as the 
 coating is thick and the logs firmly attached to the 
 surrounding deposit/' * 
 
 More recent and perishable proofs of the presence 
 of Indians in the Park were found by the early ex- 
 plorers in the rude wick-e-ups, brush inclosures, and 
 similar contrivances of the lonely Sheepeaters ; and it 
 is not improbable that many of the arrow and spear 
 heads were the work of these Indians. 
 
 The real question of doubt in regard to Indian oc- 
 cupancy of, or visits to, the Park, is therefore not one 
 of fact, but of degree. The Sheepeaters certainly 
 dwelt there ; but as to other tribes, their acquaintance 
 with it seems to have been very limited. No word of 
 information about the geyser regions ever fell from 
 their lips, except that the surrounding country was 
 known to. them as the Burning Mountains. "With 
 one or two exceptions, the old trails were very indis- 
 tinct, requiring an experienced eye to distinguish 
 them from game trails. Their undeveloped condition 
 indicated infrequent use. Old trappers who have 
 known this region for fifty years say that the great 
 
 * Page 298, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. See Ap- 
 pendix E. It is more than probable that this was the work of" 
 trappers. 
 
14 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 majority of Indians never saw it. Able Indian 
 guides in the surrounding country became lost when 
 they entered the Park, and the Nez Perces were 
 forced to impress a white man as guide when they 
 crossed the Park in 1877. 
 
 An unknown writer, to whom extended reference 
 will be made in a later chapter, visited the Upper 
 Geyser Basin in 1832, accompanied by two Pend 
 d'Oreilles Indians. Neither of these Indians had ever 
 seen or apparently heard of the geysers, and " were 
 quite appalled " at the sight of them, believing them 
 to be "supernatural" and the "production of the 
 Evil Spirit." 
 
 Lieutenant Doane, who commanded the military 
 escort to the Yellowstone Expedition of 1870, says in 
 his report :* 
 
 "Appearances indicated that the basin [of the Yel- 
 lowstone Lake] had been almost entirely abandoned 
 by the sons of the forest. A few lodges of Sheepeat- 
 ers, a branch remnant of the Snake tribe, wretched 
 beasts who run from the sight of a white man, or 
 from any other tribe of Indians, are said to inhabit 
 the fastnesses of the. mountains around the lakes, 
 poorly armed and dismounted, obtaining a precarious 
 subsistence, and in a defenseless condition. We saw, 
 however, no recent traces of them. The larger tribes 
 never enter the basin, restrained by superstitious ideas 
 in connection with the thermal springs." 
 
 In 1880, Col. P. "W. Norris, Second Superintendent 
 of the Park, had a long interview on the shore of the 
 
 * Page 26, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appen- 
 dix E. 
 
INDIAN OCCUPANCY OF THE UPPER YELLOWSTONE. 15 
 
 Yellowstone Lake with We-Saw, " an old but remark- 
 ably intelligent Indian " of the Shoshone tribe, who 
 was then acting as guide to an exploring party under 
 Governor Hoyt, of Wyoming, and who had previously 
 passed through the Park with the expedition of 1873 
 under Captain "W. A. Jones, U. S. A. He had also 
 been in the Park region on former occasions. Colonel 
 Norris records the following facts from this Indian's 
 conversation :* 
 
 " We-Saw states that he had neither knowledge nor 
 tradition of any permanent occupants of the Park 
 save the timid Sheepeaters. . . . He said that 
 his people (Shoshones) the Bannocks and the Crows, 
 occasionally visited the Yellowstone Lake and River 
 portions of the Park, but very seldom the geyser re- 
 gions, which he declared were ' heap, heap, bad,' and 
 never wintered there, as white men sometimes did 
 with horses." 
 
 It seems that even the resident Sheepeaters knew 
 little of the geyser basins. General Sheridan, who 
 entered the Park from the south in 1882, makes this 
 record in his report of the expedition : f 
 
 " We had with us five Sheep Eating Indians as 
 guides, and, strange to say, although these Indians 
 had lived for years and years about Mounts Sheridan 
 and Hancock, and the high mountains south-east of 
 the Yellowstone Lake, they knew nothing about the 
 Firehole Geyser Basin, and they exhibited more 
 astonishment and wonder than any of us." 
 
 * Page 38, Annual Report of Superintendent of the Park for 
 1881. 
 
 t Page 11, Report on Explorations of Parts of Wyoming, Idaho 
 and Montana, 1882. See Appendix E. 
 
16 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Evidence like the foregoing clearly indicates that 
 this country was terra incognita to the vast body of 
 Indians who dwelt around it, and again this singular 
 fact presents itself for explanation. Was it, as is 
 generally supposed, a " superstitious fear " that kept 
 them away ? The incidents just related give 
 some color to such a theory ; but if it were really 
 true we should expect to find well authenticated In- 
 dian traditions of so marvelous a country. Unfor- 
 tunately history records none. It is not meant by this 
 to imply that reputed traditions concerning the Yel- 
 lowstone are unknown. For instance, it is related 
 that the Crows always refused to tell the whites of 
 the geysers because they believed that whoever 
 visited them became endowed with supernatural 
 powers, and they wished to retain a monopoly of this 
 knowledge. But traditions of this sort, like most In- 
 dian curiosities now offered for sale, are evidently of 
 spurious origin. Only in the names " Yellowstone " 
 and " Burning Mountains " do we find any original 
 evidence that this land of wonders appealed in the 
 least degree to the native imagination. 
 
 The real explanation of this remarkable ignorance 
 appears to us to rest on grounds essentially practical*. 
 There was nothing to induce the Indians to visit the 
 Park country. For three-fourths of the year that 
 country is inaccessible on account of snow. It is 
 covered with dense forests, which in most places are 
 so filled with fallen timber and tangled underbrush as 
 to be practically impassable. As a game country in 
 those early days it could not compare with the lower 
 surrounding valleys. As a highway of communica- 
 tion between the valleys of the Missouri, Snake, Yel- 
 
INDIAN OCCUPANCY OF THE UPPER YELLOWSTONE. 17 
 
 lowstone, and Bighorn Rivers, it was no thoroughfare. 
 The great routes, except the Bannock trail already 
 described, lay on the outside. All the conditions, 
 therefore, which might attract the Indians to this re- 
 gion were wanting. Even those sentimental influ- 
 ences, such as a love of sublime scenery and a 
 curiosity to see the strange freaks of nature, evidently 
 had less weight with them than with their pale-face 
 brethren. 
 
 Summarizing the results of such knowledge, con- 
 fessedly meager, as exists upon this subject, it ap- 
 pears : 
 
 (1.) That the country now embraced in the Yellow- 
 stone National Park was occupied, at the time of its 
 discovery, by small bands of Sheepeater Indians, prob- 
 ably not exceeding in number one hundred and fifty 
 souls. They dwelt in the neighborhood of the "Wash- 
 burn and Absaroka Ranges, and among the mountains 
 around the sources of the Snake. They were not 
 familiar with the geyser regions. 
 
 (2.) Wandering bands from other tribes occasionally 
 visited this country, but generally along the line of 
 the Yellowstone River or the Great Bannock Trail. 
 Their knowledge of the geyser regions was extremely 
 limited, and very few had ever seen or heard of them. 
 It is probable that the Indians visited this country 
 more frequently in earlier times than since the advent 
 of the white man. 
 
 (3.) The Indians avoided the region of the Upper 
 Yellowstone from practical, rather than from senti- 
 mental, considerations. 
 2 
 
18 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 The legal processes by which the vast territory of 
 these various tribes passed to the United States, are full 
 of incongruities resulting from a general ignorance of the 
 country in question. By the Treaty of Fort Laramie, 
 dated September 17, 1851, between the United States 
 on the one hand, and the Crows, Blackfeet and other 
 northern tribes on the other, the Crows were given, 
 as part of their territory, all that portion of the Park 
 country which lies east of the Yellowstone River; 
 and the Blackfeet, all that portion lying between the 
 Yellowstone River and the Continental Divide. This 
 was before any thing whatever was known of the 
 country so given away. None of the Shoshone tribes 
 were party to the treaty, and the rights of the 
 Sheepeaters were utterly ignored. That neither the 
 Blackfeet nor the Crows had any real claim to these 
 extravagant grants is evidenced by their prompt relin- 
 quishment of them in the first subsequent treaties. 
 Thus, by treaty of October 17, 1855, the Blackfeet 
 agreed that all of their portion of the Park country, 
 with much other territory, should be and remain a 
 common hunting ground for certain designated tribes ; 
 and by treaty of May 17, 1868, the Crows relinquished 
 all of their territory south of the Montana boundary 
 line. 
 
 That portion of the Park country drained by the Snake 
 River was always considered Shoshone territory, al- 
 though apparently never formally recognized in any 
 public treaty. By an unratified treaty, dated September 
 24, 1868, the provisions of which seem to have been the 
 basis of subsequent arrangements with the Shosho- 
 nean tribes, all this territory and much besides was 
 
INDIAN OCCUPANCY OF THE UPPER YELLOWSTONE. 19- 
 
 ceded to the United States, and the tribes were located 
 upon small reservations. 
 
 It thus appears that at the time the Park was 
 created, March 1, 1872, all the territory included in 
 its limits had been ceded to the United States except 
 the hunting ground above referred to, and the narrow 
 strip of Crow territory east of the Yellowstone where 
 the north boundary of the Park lies two or three 
 miles north of the Montana line. The " hunting 
 ground " arrangement was abrogated by statute of 
 April 15, 1874, and the strip of Crow territory was 
 purchased under an agreement with the Crows, dated 
 June 12, 1880, and ratified by Congress, April 11, 
 1882, thus extinguishing the last remaining Indian 
 title to any portion of the Yellowstone Park. 
 
20 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 JOHN COLTER. 
 
 Lewis and Clark passed the second winter of their ex- 
 pedition at the mouth of the Columbia River. In the 
 spring and summer of 1806 they accomplished their re- 
 turn to St. Louis. Upon their arrival at the site of 
 their former winter quarters among the Mandans, an in- 
 cident occurred which forms the initial point in the 
 history of the Yellowstone National Park. It is thus 
 recorded in the journal of the expedition under date 
 of August 14 and 15, 1806 :* 
 
 " In the evening we were applied to by one of our 
 men, Colter, who was desirous of joining the two trap- 
 pers who had accompanied us, and who now proposed 
 an expedition up the river, in which they were to find 
 traps and give him a share of the profits. The otter 
 was a very advantageous one, and, as he had always 
 performed his duty, and his services might be dispensed 
 with, we agreed that he might go provided none of the 
 rest would ask or expect a similar indulgence. To this 
 they cheerfully answered that they wished Colter every 
 success and would not apply for liberty to separate be- 
 fore we reached St. Louis. We therefore supplied 
 him, as did his comrades also, with powder, lead, and 
 a variety of articles which might be useful to him, and 
 he left us the next day." 
 
 To our explorers, just returning from a two years* 
 
 * Pages 1181-2, Coues' " Lewis and Clark." See Appendix E. 
 
JOHN COLTER. 21 
 
 sojourn in the wilderness, Colter's decision seemed too 
 remarkable to be passed over in silence. The journal 
 continues : 
 
 " The example of this man shows us how easily men 
 may be weaned from the habits of civilized life to the 
 ruder but scarcely less fascinating manners of the 
 woods. This hunter has now been absent for many 
 years from the frontiers, and might naturally be pre- 
 sumed to have some anxiety, or some curiosity at least, 
 to return to his friends and his country ; yet just at the 
 moment when he is approaching the frontiers, he is 
 tempted by a hunting scheme to give up those delight- 
 ful prospects, and go back without the least reluctance 
 to the solitude of the woods." 
 
 Colter seems to have stood well in the esteem of 
 his officers. Besides the fair character given him in 
 his discharge, the record of the expedition shows that 
 he was frequently selected when one or two men were 
 required for important special duty. That he had a 
 good eye for topography may be inferred from the fact 
 that Captain Clark, several years after the expedition 
 was over, placed upon his map certain important infor- 
 mation on the strength of Colter's statements, who 
 alone had traversed the region in question. In another 
 instance, when Bradbury, the English naturalist, was 
 about to leave St. Louis to join the Astorians in 
 the spring of 1811, Clark referred him to Colter, who 
 had returned from the mountains, as a person who 
 could conduct him to a certain natural curiosity on the 
 Missouri some distance above St. Charles. Colter had 
 not seen the place for six years. In the Missouri Ga- 
 zette, for April 18, 1811, he is referred to as a " cele- 
 brated hunter and woodsman/' These glimpses of his 
 
22 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 record, and a remarkable incident to be related further 
 on, clearly indicate that he was a man of superior 
 mettle to that of the average hunter and trapper. 
 
 Colter's whereabouts during the three years follow- 
 ing his discharge are difficult to fix upon. It may, 
 however, be set down as certain that he and his com- 
 panions ascended the Yellowstone River, not the Mis- 
 souri. Captain Clark's return journey down the first- 
 mentioned stream had made known to them that it 
 was better beaver country than the Missouri, and 
 Colter's subsequent wanderings clearly indicate that 
 his base of operations was in the valley of the Yel- 
 lowstone near the mouth of the Bighorn, Pryor's Fork, 
 or other tributary stream. 
 
 In the summer of 1807, he made an expedition, ap- 
 parently alone, although probably in company with In- 
 dians, which has given him title to a place in the his- 
 tory of the Yellowstone Park, and which was destined 
 in later years to assume an importance little enough 
 suspected by him at the time. His route appears upon 
 Lewis and Clark's map of 1814, and is there called 
 " Colter's route in 1807." There is no note or explana- 
 nation, and we are left to retrace, on the basis of a 
 dotted line, a few names, and a date, one of those 
 singular individual wanderings through the wilder- 
 ness which now and then find a permanent place in 
 history. 
 
 The " route," as traced on the map, starts from a 
 point on Pryor's Fork, the first considerable tributary 
 of the Yellowstone above the mouth of the Bighorn. 
 Colter's intention seerns to have been to skirt the east- 
 ern base of the Absaroka Range until he should 
 reach an accessible pass across the mountains of which 
 
COLTER'S ROUTE ix 1807. 
 
 Opp. page S3. 
 
JOHN COLTER. 23 
 
 the Indians had probably told him ; then to cross 
 over to the headwaters of Pacific or gulf-flowing 
 streams ; and then to return by way of the Upper Yel- 
 lowstone. 
 
 Accordingly, after he had passed through Pryor's 
 Gap, he took a south-westerly direction as far as 
 Clark's Fork, which stream he ascended for some dis- 
 tance, and then crossed over to the Stinkiugwater. 
 Here he discovered a large boiling spring, strongly 
 impregnated with tar and sulphur, the odor of which, 
 perceptible for a great distance around, has given the 
 stream its " unhappy name." 
 
 From this point Colter continued along the eastern 
 flank of the Absaroka Range, fording the several 
 tributaries of the Bighorn River which flow down 
 from that range, and finally came to the upper course 
 of the main stream now known as Wind River. He 
 ascended this stream to its source, crossing the divide 
 in the vicinity of Lincoln or Union Pass, and found 
 himself upon the Pacific slope. The map clearly 
 shows that at this point he had reached what the In- 
 dians called the " summit of the world " near by the 
 sources of all great streams of the west. That he dis- 
 covered one of the easy passes between "Wind River 
 and the Pacific slope, is evident from the reference in 
 the Missouri Gazette already alluded to and here re- 
 produced for the first time. It is from the pen of a 
 Mr. H. M. Brackenridge, a contemporary writer of 
 note on topics of western adventure. It reads : 
 
 "At the head of the Gallatin Fork, and of the 
 Grosse Corne of the Yellowstone [the Bighorn River], 
 from discoveries since the voyage of Lewis and Clark, 
 it is found less difficult to cross than the Allegheny 
 
24 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Mountains. Coulter, a celebrated hunter and woods- 
 man, informed me that a loaded wagon would find no 
 obstruction in passing." 
 
 The " discoveries " are of course those of Colter, for 
 no other white man at this time had been in those 
 parts. 
 
 From the summit of the mountains he descended to 
 the westward; crossed the Snake River and Teton 
 Pass to Pierre's Hole, and then turned north, re- 
 crossing the Teton Range by the Indian trail in the 
 valley of what is now Conant Creek, just north of 
 Jackson Lake.* Thence he continued his course until 
 he reached Yellowstone Lake,* at some point along 
 its south-western shore. He passed around the west 
 shore to the northernmost point of the Thumb, and 
 then resumed his northerly course over the hills arriv- 
 ing at the Yellowstone River in the valley of Alum 
 Creek. He followed the left bank of the river to the 
 ford just above Tower Falls, where the great Bannock 
 Trail used to cross, and then followed this trail to its 
 junction with his outward route on Clark's Fork. 
 From this point he re-crossed to the Stinkingwater, 
 possibly in order to re-visit the strange phenomena 
 there, but more probably to explore new trapping ter- 
 ritory on his way back. He descended the Stinking- 
 water until about south of Pryor's Gap, when he 
 turned north and shortly after arrived at his starting 
 point. 
 
 The direction of Colter's progress, as here indicated, 
 and the identification of certain geographical features 
 
 * For the names given by Captain Clark to these bodies of water, 
 see Appendix A, "Jackson Lake " and "Yellowstone Lake." 
 
JOHN COLTER. 25 
 
 noted by him, differ somewhat from the ordinary in- 
 terpretation of that adventure. But, while -it would 
 be absurd to dogmatize upon so uncertain a subject, it 
 is believed jthat the theory adopted is fairly well sup- 
 ported by the facts as now known. It must in the 
 first place be assumed that Colter exercised ordinary 
 common sense upon this journey and availed himself 
 of all information that could facilitate his progress. 
 It is probable that he was under the guidance of In- 
 dians who knew the country ; but if not, he frequently 
 stopped, like any traveler in an unknown region, to 
 inquire his way. He sought the established trails, 
 low mountain passes, and well-known fords, and did 
 not, as the map suggests, take a direction that would 
 carry him through the very roughest and most im- 
 passable mountain country on the continent. It is 
 necessary to orient his map so as to make both his 
 outgoing and return routes extend nearly due north 
 and south, instead of north-east and south-west, in 
 order to reconcile his geography at all with the modern 
 maps. With these precautions some of the difficulty 
 of the situation disappears. 
 
 Colter, it is therefore assumed, followed the great 
 trail along the Absarokas to the Wind River Valley, 
 and crossed the divide by one of the easy passes at its 
 head. His two crossings of the Teton range were 
 along established trails. He evidently lost his bear- 
 ings somewhat in the vicinity of the Yellowstone 
 Lake, but as soon as he arrived at the river below the 
 lake he kept along the trail until he reached the im- 
 portant crossing at Tower Falls. If he was in com- 
 pany with Indians who had ever been through that 
 
26 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 country before, he learned that it would be no advan- 
 tage to cross at Mud Geyser, inasmuch as he would 
 strike the great Bannock Trail at the next ford below. 
 Moreover, the distance below the lake to the point 
 where Colter touched the Yellowstone is clearly 
 greater than that to the Mud Geyser Ford. The 
 bend in the river at the Great Falls, and the close 
 proximity of the Washburn Range to the river, are 
 distinctly indicated. The locality noted on the map 
 as "Hot Springs Brimstone" is evidently not that 
 near the Mud Geyser, as generally assumed, but in- 
 stead, that of the now world-renowned Mammoth 
 Hot Springs. As will be seen from the map, it is 
 nearer the Gallatin River than it is to the Yellowstone 
 where Colter crossed. If Colter visited the Springs 
 from Tower Falls, as is not unlikely, a clue is sup- 
 plied to the otherwise perplexing reference to the 
 Gallatin River in the above extract from the Missouri 
 Gazette, for it would thus appear that he was near the 
 sources of both the GrOsse Corne and of the Gallatin. 
 The essential difficulties in the way of this theory 
 (and they exist with any possible theory that can be 
 advanced) are the following: (1.) There is no stream 
 on the map that can stand for the Snake River either 
 above or below Jackson Lake, although Colter must 
 have crossed it in each place. " Colter's River " 
 comes nearest the first location, and may possibly be 
 intended to represent that stream; but Clark's evi- 
 dent purpose to drain Jackson Lake into the Bighorn 
 River doubtless led to a distortion of the map in this 
 locality. (2.) The erroneous shape given to the Yel- 
 lowstone Lake will be readily understood by any one 
 who has visited its western shore. The jutting 
 
JOHN COLTER. 27 
 
 promontories to the eastward entirely conceal from 
 view the great body of the lake and give it a form 
 not unlike that upon Clark's map. (3.) The absence 
 of the Great Falls from the map is not easily ac- 
 counted for, although the location and trend of the 
 Grand Caflon are shown with remarkable accuracy. 
 (4.) The absence of the many hot springs districts, 
 through which Colter passed, particularly that at the 
 west end of the Yellowstone Lake, may be explained 
 by the same spirit of incredulity which led to the 
 rejection of all similar accounts for a period of more 
 than sixty years. It is probable that Clark was not 
 willing to recognize Colter's statements on this sub- 
 ject further than to note on his map the location of 
 the most wonderful of the hot springs groups men- 
 tioned by him. 
 
 The direction in which Colter traveled is a matter 
 of no essential importance, and that here adopted is 
 based solely upon the consideration that the doubling 
 of the trail upon itself between Clark's Fork and the 
 Stinkingwater River, and the erratic course of the 
 route around Yellowstone Lake, can not be well ac- 
 counted for on the contrary hypothesis.* 
 
 Such, in the main, is "Colter's route in 1807." 
 That he was the discoverer of Yellowstone Lake, and 
 the foremost herald of the strange phenomena of that 
 region, may be accepted as beyond question. He did 
 
 * In adopting, as Colter's point of crossing the Yellowstone, 
 the ford at Tower Creek, the author has followed the Hon. N. P. 
 Langford, in his reprint of Folsom's ' 'Valley of the Upper Yel- 
 lowstone." (See Appendix E.) All other writers who have 
 touched upon the subject have assumed the ford to be that near 
 the Mud Geyser. 
 
28 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 not, as is generally supposed, see the Firehole Geyser 
 Basins. But he saw too much for his reputation as a 
 man of veracity. No author or map-maker would 
 jeopardize the success of his work by incorporating 
 in it such incredible material as Colter furnished. 
 His stories were not believed ; their author became 
 the subject of jest and ridicule ; and the region of 
 his adventures was long derisively known as " Colter's 
 Hell." * 
 
 The story of Colter's subsequent experience before 
 he returned to St. Louis is thrilling in the extreme. 
 Although it has no direct bearing upon this narrative, 
 still, since it is part of the biography of the discoverer 
 of the Upper Yellowstone, it can not be omitted. The 
 detailed account we owe to the naturalist Bradbury, 
 already referred to. He saw Colter above St. Louis 
 in the spring of 1811, one year after his return from 
 the mountains, and received the story directly from 
 him. All other accounts are variations from Brad- 
 bury. Irving, who has made this story an Indian 
 classic, borrows it in toto. Perhaps in all the records 
 of Indian adventure there is not another instance of 
 such a miraculous escape, in which the details are 
 throughout so clearly within the range of possibility. 
 It is a consistent narrative from beginning to end. In 
 briefest outline it is as follows : 
 
 When Colter returned from his expedition of 1807, 
 
 * This name early came to be restricted to the locality where 
 Colter discovered the tar spring on the Stinkingwater, probably 
 because few trappers ever saw the other similar localities visited 
 by him. But Colter's descriptions, so well summed up by Irving in 
 his " Captain Bonneville," undoubtedly refer in large part to what 
 he saw in the Yellowstone and Snake River Vallevs. 
 
JOHN COLTER. 29 
 
 he found Manuel Lisa, of the Missouri Fur Company, 
 already in the country, where he had just arrived 
 from St. Louis. With him was one Potts, believed to 
 be the same person who had been a private in the 
 party of Lewis and Clark. In the spring of 1808, 
 Colter and his old companion in arms set out to the 
 headwaters of the Missouri on a trapping expedition. 
 It was on a branch of Jefferson Fork that they went 
 to work, and here they met with their disastrous ex- 
 perience. 
 
 One morning while they were in a canoe examining 
 their traps they were surprised by a large party of 
 Blackfeet Indians. Potts attempted resistance and 
 was slain on the spot. Colter, with more presence of 
 mind, gave himself up as the only possible chance of 
 avoiding immediate death. The Indians then con- 
 sulted as to how they should kill him in order to yield 
 themselves the greatest amount of amusement. Col- 
 ter, upon being questioned as to his fleetness of foot, 
 sagaciously replied that he was a poor runner (though 
 in fact very swift), and the Indians, believing that it 
 would be a safe experiment, decided that he should 
 run for his life. Accordingly he was stripped naked 
 and was led by the chief to a point three or four hun- 
 dred' yards in advance of the main body of the Indians. 
 Here he was told " to save himself if he could," and the 
 race began one man against five hundred. 
 
 The Indians quickly saw how they had been out- 
 witted, for Colter flew away from them as if upon the 
 wings of the wind. But his speed cost him dear. 
 The exertion caused the blood to stream from his 
 mouth and nostrils, and run down over his naked 
 form. The prickly pear and the rough ground lacer- 
 
30 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 ated his feet. Six miles away across a level plain was 
 a fringe of cottonwood on the banks of the Jefferson 
 River. Short of that lay not a shadow of chance of 
 concealment. It was a long race, but life hung upon 
 the issue. The Indians had not counted on such pro- 
 digious running. Gradually they fell off, and when 
 Colter ventured for the first time to glance back, only 
 a small number were in his wake. Encouragement 
 was now added to hope, and he ran even faster than 
 before. 
 
 But there was one Indian who was too much for 
 him. He was steadily shortening the distance between 
 them, and at last had arrived within a spear's throw. 
 Was Colter to be slain by a single Indian after having 
 distanced five hundred? He would see. Suddenly 
 whirling about, he confronted the Indian, who was 
 astounded at the sudden move and at Colter's bloody 
 appearance. He tried to hurl his spear but stumbled 
 and broke it as he fell. Colter seized the pointed por- 
 tion and pinned the Indian to the earth. 
 
 Again he resumed his flight. He reached the Jef- 
 ferson, and discovered, some distance below, a raft of 
 driftwood against the head of an island. He dived 
 under this raft and found a place where he could get 
 his head above water. There, in painful suspense, he 
 awaited developments. The Indians explored the 
 island and examined the raft, but Colter's audacious 
 spirit was beyond their comprehension. It did not 
 occur to them that he was all the time surveying their 
 movements from his hiding place under the 'timber, 
 and they finally abandoned the search and withdrew. 
 Colter had saved himself. When evening came he 
 .swam several miles down the river and then went 
 
JOHN COLTER. 31 
 
 ashore. For seven days he wandered naked and un- 
 armed, over stones, cacti, and the prickly pear, 
 scorched hy the heat of noon and chilled by the frost 
 of night, finding his sole subsistence in such roots as 
 he might dig, until at last he reached Lisa's trading 
 post on the Bighorn River. 
 
 Even this terrible adventure could not dismay the 
 dauntless Colter, and he remained still another year 
 in the mountains. Finally, in the spring of 1810, he 
 got into a canoe and dropped down the river, " three 
 thousand miles in thirty days," reaching St. Louis, 
 May 1st, after an absence of six years. 
 
 Colter remained in St. Louis for a time giving 
 Clark what information he could concerning the 
 places he had seen, and evidently talking a great deal 
 about his adventures. Finally he retired to the coun- 
 try some distance up the Missouri, and married. Here 
 we again catch a glimpse of him when the Astorians 
 were on their way up the river. As Colter saw the 
 well appointed expedition setting out for the moun- 
 tains, the old fever seized him again and he was upon 
 the point of joining the party. But what the hard- 
 ships of the wilderness and the pleasures of civiliza- 
 tion could not dissuade him from doing, the charms 
 of a newly-married wife easily accomplished. Colter 
 remained behind; and here the curtain of oblivion 
 falls upon the discoverer of the Yellowstone. It is 
 not without genuine satisfaction that, having followed 
 him through the incredible mazes of " Colter's Hell," 
 we bid him adieu amid surroundings of so different a 
 character. 
 
32 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE TRADER AND TRAPPER. 
 
 For sixty years after Lewis and Clark returned 
 from their expedition, the headwaters of the Yellow- 
 stone remained unexplored except by the trader and 
 trapper. The traffic in peltries it was that first in- 
 duced extensive exploration of the west. Concerning 
 the precious metals, the people seem to have had 
 little faith in their abundant existence in the west, 
 and no organized search for them was made in the 
 earlier years of the century. But that country, even 
 in its unsettled state, had other and important sources 
 of wealth. Myriads of beaver inhabited the streams 
 and innumerable buffalo roamed the valleys. The 
 buffalo furnished the trapper with means of subsist- 
 ence, and beaver furs were better than mines of gold. 
 Far in advance of the tide of settlement the lonely 
 trapper, and after him the trader, penetrated the un- 
 known west. Gradually the enterprise of individuals 
 crystallized around a few important nuclei and there 
 grew up those great fur-trading companies which for 
 many years exercised a kind of paternal sway over the 
 Indians and the scarcely more civilized trappers. A 
 brief resume of the history of these companies will 
 show how important a place they occupy in the early 
 history of the Upper Yellowstone. 
 
 The climax of the western fur business may be 
 placed at about the year 1830. At that time three 
 great companies operated in territories whose converg- 
 
THE TRADER AND TRAPPER. 33 
 
 ing lines of separation centered in the region about 
 Yellowstone Lake. The oldest and most important of 
 them, and the one destined to outlive the others, was 
 the world-renowned Hudson's Bay Company. It was 
 at that time more than a century and a half old. Its 
 earlier history was in marked contrast with that of 
 later years. Secure in the monopoly which its exten- 
 sive charter rights guaranteed, it had been content 
 with substantial profits and had never pushed its busi- 
 ness far into new territory nor managed it with ag- 
 gressive vigor. It was not until forced to action by 
 the encroachments of a dangerous rival, that it be- 
 came the prodigious power of later times. 
 
 This rival was the great North-west Fur Company 
 of Montreal: It had grown up since the French and 
 Indian "War, partly as a result of that conflict, and 
 finally took corporate form in 1787. It had none of 
 the important territorial rights of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, but its lack of monopoly was more than 
 made up by the enterprise of its promoters. With its 
 bands of Canadian frontiersmen, it boldly penetrated 
 the north-west and paid little respect to those terri- 
 torial rights which its venerable rival was powerless 
 to enforce. It rapidly extended its operations far into 
 the unexplored interior. Lewis and Clark found its 
 traders among the Mandans in 1804. In 1811 the 
 Astorians saw its first party descend the Columbia to 
 the sea. Two years later the American traders on the 
 Pacific Coast were forced to succumb to their British 
 rivals. 
 
 A long and bitter strite now ensued between the 
 two British companies. It even assumed the magni- 
 tude of civil war, and finally resulted in a frightful 
 
34 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 massacre of unoffending colonists. The British gov- 
 ernment interfered and forced the rivals into court, 
 where they were brought to the verge of ruin by pro- 
 tracted litigation. A compromise was at last effected 
 in 1821 by an amalgamation of the two companies 
 under the name of the older rival. 
 
 But in the meantime a large part of their best fur 
 country had been lost. In 1815 the government of 
 the United States excluded British traders from its 
 territory east of the Rocky Mountains. To the west 
 of this limit, however, the amalgamated company 
 easily forced all its rivals from the field. No Ameri- 
 can fur company ever attained the splendid organiza- 
 tion, nor the influence over the Indians, possessed by 
 the Hudson's Bay Company. At the tmie of which 
 we write it was master of the trade in the Columbia 
 River valley, and the eastern limit of its operations 
 within the territory of the United States was nearly 
 coincident with the present western boundary of the 
 Yellowstone Park. 
 
 The second of the great companies to which refer- 
 ence has been made was the American Fur Company. 
 It was the final outcome of John Jacob Astor's various 
 attempts to control the fur trade of the United States. 
 Although it was incorporated in 1809, it was for a 
 time overshadowed by the more brilliant enterprises 
 known as the Pacific Fur Company and the South- 
 west Fur Company. The history of Mr. Astor's 
 Pacific Fur Company, the dismal experiences of the 
 Astorians, and the deplorable failure of the whole un- 
 dertaking, are matters familiar to all readers of 
 Irving's "Astoria." 
 
 The other project gave for a time more sub- 
 
THE TRADER AND TRAPPER. 35 
 
 stantial promise of success. A British company of 
 considerable importance, under the name of the 
 Mackinaw Company, with headquarters at Michili- 
 macinac, had for some time operated in the country 
 about the headwaters of the Mississippi now included 
 in the states of Wisconsin and Minnesota. Astor suc- 
 ceeded in forming a new company, partly with 
 American and partly with Canadian capital. This 
 company bought out the Mackinaw Company, and 
 changed the name to South-west Fur Company. But 
 scarcely had its promising career begun when it was 
 cut short by the War of 1812. 
 
 The failure of these two attempts caused Mr. Astor 
 to turn to the old American Fur Company. The ex- 
 clusion Act of 1815 enabled him to buy at his own 
 price the Xorth-west Fur Company's posts on the up- 
 per rivers, and the American Company rapidly ex- 
 tended its trade over all the country, from Lake 
 Superior to the Rocky Mountains. Its posts mul- 
 tiplied in every direction, and at an early date steam- 
 boats began to do its business up the Missouri River 
 from St. Louis. It gradually absorbed lesser concerns, 
 such as the Missouri Fur Company, and the Columbia 
 Fur Company, and in 1823 was reorganized under the 
 name of The North American Fur Company. In 
 1834, Astor sold his interests to Chouteau, Valle and 
 Company, of St. Louis, and retired from the business. 
 At this time the general western limit of the territory 
 operated in by this formidable company was the 
 northern and eastern slope of the mountains which 
 bound the Yellowstone Park on the north and east. 
 Its line of operations was down the river to St. Louis, 
 
36 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 and its great trading posts were located at frequent 
 intervals between. 
 
 The third of the great rival companies was the 
 Rocky Mountain Fur Company, which originated in 
 St. Louis in 1822, and received its full organization in 
 1826 under the direction of Jedediah Smith, David 
 Jackson and William Sublette. Among the leading 
 spirits, who at one time or another guided its affairs, 
 was the famous mountaineer James Bridger to whom 
 frequent reference will be made. 
 
 This company had its general center of operations 
 on the head waters of Green River to the west of 
 South Pass. Unlike the other companies, it had no 
 navigable stream along which it could establish posts 
 and conduct its operations. By the necessities of its 
 exclusively mountain trade it developed a new feature 
 of the fur business. The voyageur, with his canoe and 
 oar, gave way to the mountaineer, with his saddle and 
 rifle. The trading post was replaced by the annual 
 rendezvous, which was in many points the forerunner 
 of the later cattle " roundups " of the plains. These 
 rendezvous were agreed upon each year at localities 
 best suited for the convenience of the trade. Hither 
 in the spring came from the east convoys of supplies 
 for the season's use. Hither repaired also the various 
 parties of hunters and trappers and such bands of In- 
 dians as roamed in the vicinity. These meetings were 
 great occasions, both in the transaction of business 
 and in the round of festivities that always prevailed. 
 After the traffic of the occasion was over, and the 
 plans for the ensuing year were agreed upon, the con- 
 voys returned to the States and the trappers to their 
 retreats in the mountains. The field of operations of 
 
THE TRADER AND TRAPPER. 37 
 
 this company was very extensive and included about 
 all of the West not controlled by the Hudson's Bay 
 and American Fur Companies. 
 
 Thus was the territory of the great West practically 
 parceled out among these three companies.* It must 
 not be supposed that there was any agreement, tacit 
 or open, that each company should keep within cer- 
 tain limits. There were, indeed, a few temporary ar- 
 rangements of this sort, but for the most part each 
 company maintained the right to work in any terri- 
 tory it saw fit, and there was constant invasion by each 
 of the proper territories of the other. But the prac- 
 tical necessities of the business kept them, broadly 
 speaking, within the limits which we have noted. The 
 roving bands of "free trappers" and "lone traders," 
 and individual expeditions like those of Captain 
 Bonneville and Nathaniel J. Wyeth, acknowledged 
 allegiance to none of the great organizations, but 
 wandered where they chose, dealing by turns with 
 each of the companies. 
 
 Nor did any company maintain an exclusive mo- 
 nopoly of its peculiar methods of conducting business. 
 The American Fur Company frequently held rendez- 
 vous at points remote from its trading posts ; and the 
 Rocky Mountain Fur Company in later years resorted 
 
 * A singular and striking coincidence at once discloses itself to 
 any one who compares maps showing the territories operated in 
 by these three companies, and those which belonged to the three 
 great families of Indians mentioned in a preceding chapter. By 
 far the larger part of the Hudson's Bay Company's territory, as 
 far west as the main range of the Rocky Mountains, was Algon- 
 quian. The American Fur Company's territory was almost en- 
 tirely Siouan, and that of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, 
 Shoshonean. 
 
38 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 to the Missouri River as its line of supplies. In fact, 
 the interests of the two companies finally became to 
 such an extent dependent upon each other that a 
 union was effected, in 1839, under the firm name of P. 
 Chouteau, Jr. 
 
 The records of those early days abound in refer- 
 ences to the fierce competition in trade which existed 
 between these great organizations. It led to every 
 manner of device or subterfuge which might deceive 
 a rival as to routes, conceal from him important trap- 
 ping grounds, undermine the loyalty of his emplo} 7 es 
 or excite the hostility of the Indians against him. It 
 often led to deeds of violence, and made the presence 
 of a rival band of trappers more dreaded than a war 
 party of the implacable Blackfeet. 
 
 The vigor and enterprise of these traders caused 
 their business to penetrate the remotest and most in- 
 accessible corners of the land. Silliman's Journal for 
 January, 1834, declares that 
 
 " The mountains and forests, from the Arctic Sea 
 to the Gulf ot Mexico, are threaded through every 
 maze by the hunter. Every river and tributary 
 stream, from the Columbia to the Rio del J^orte, and 
 from the Mackenzie to the Colorado of the West, 
 from their head waters to their junctions, are searched 
 and trapped for beaver." 
 
 That a business of such all-pervading character 
 should have left a region like our present Yellowstone 
 Park unexplored would seem extremely doubtful. 
 That region lay, a sort of neutral ground, between 
 the territories of the rival fur companies. Its streams 
 abounded with beaver ; and, although hemmed in by 
 vast mountains, and snow-bound most of the year, it 
 
THE TRADER AND TRAPPER. 39 
 
 could not have escaped discovery. la fact, every 
 part of it was repeatedly visited by trappers. Ren- 
 dezvous were held on every side of it, and once, it is 
 believed, in Hayden Valley, just north of Yellowstone 
 Lake. Had the fur business been more enduring, the 
 geyser regions would have become known at least a 
 generation sooner. 
 
 But a business carried on with such relentless vigor 
 naturally soon taxed the resources of nature beyond 
 its capacity for reproduction. In regions under the 
 control of a single organization, as in the vast do- 
 mains of the Hudson's Bay Company, great care was 
 taken to preserve the fur-bearing animals from ex- 
 tinction ; but in United States territory, the exigencies 
 of competition made any such provision impossible. 
 The poor beaver, as at a later day the buffalo, quickly 
 succumbed to his ubiquitous enemies. There was no 
 spot remote enough for him to build his dam in peace, 
 and the once innumerable multitude speedily dwindled 
 away. The few years immediately preceding and fol- 
 lowing 1830 were the halcyon days of the fur trade in 
 the United States. Thenceforward it rapidly de- 
 clined, and by 1850 had shrunk to a mere shadow of 
 its former greatness. With its disappearance the 
 early knowledge of the Upper Yellowstone also dis- 
 appeared. Subsequent events the Mormon emigra- 
 tion, the war with Mexico, and the discovery of 
 gold drew attention, both private and official, in 
 other directions ; and the great wonderland became 
 again almost as much unknown as in the days of 
 Lewis and Clark. 
 
40 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 EARLY KNOWLEDGE OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 On the west bank of the Yellowstone River, a 
 quarter of a mile above the Upper Falls, in a ravine 
 now crossed by a lofty wooden bridge, stands a pine 
 tree, on which is the oldest record, except that of 
 Colter, of the presence of white men within the pres- 
 ent limits of the Park. It is an inscription, giving 
 the initials of a name and the date when inscribed. 
 It was discovered in 1880 by Col. P. W. Norris, then 
 Superintendent of the Park. It is now practically il- 
 legible from overgrowth, although some of the char- 
 acters can still be made out. Col. Norris, who saw it 
 fifteen years ago, claims to have successfully deciphered 
 it. He verified the date by counting the annual rings 
 on another tree near by, which bore hatchet marks, 
 presumably of the same date. The time that had 
 elapsed since these cuts were made corresponded well 
 with the inscribed date. The inscription was : 
 
 Aug 19 1819 
 
 Efforts have been made to trace this inscription to 
 some of the early noted trappers, but the attempt can 
 hardly succeed. Even if an identity of initials were 
 established, the identity of individuals would still re- 
 main in doubt. Nothing short of some authentic 
 record of such a visit as must have taken place can 
 satisfy the requirements of the case. In the absence 
 
EARLY KNOWLEDGE OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 41 
 
 of any such record, the most that can be said is that 
 the inscription is proof positive that the Park country 
 was visited by white men, after Colter's time, fully 
 fifty years before its final discovery. 
 
 Col. Norris' researches disclosed other similar evi- 
 dence, although in no other instance with so plain a 
 clue as to date. Near Beaver Lake and Obsidian 
 Cliff, he found, in 1878, a cache of marten traps of an 
 old pattern used by the Hudson's Bay Company's 
 trappers fifty years before. He also examined the 
 ruins of an ancient block-house discovered by Freder- 
 ick Bottler at the base of Mt. Washburn, near the 
 Grand Canon of the Yellowstone. Its decayed con- 
 dition indicated great age. In other places, the 
 stumps of trees, old logs used to cross streams, and 
 many similar proofs, were brought to light by that in- 
 veterate ranger of the wilderness. 
 
 The Washburn party, in 1870, discovered on the 
 east bank of the Yellowstone, just above Mud Geyser, 
 the remains of a pit, probably once used for conceal- 
 ment in shooting water fowl. 
 
 In 1882, there was still living in Montana, at the 
 advanced age of one hundred and two years, a French- 
 man by the name of Baptiste Ducharne. This man 
 spent the summers of 1824 and 1826 on the Upper 
 Yellowstone River trapping for beaver. He saw the 
 Grand Canon and Falls of the Yellowstone and the 
 Yellowstone Lake. He passed through the geyser 
 regions, and could accurately describe them more than 
 half a century after he had seen them. 
 
 A book called " The River of the West,"* published 
 
 * See Appendix E. 
 
42 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 in 1871, but copyrighted in 1869, before the publica- 
 tion of any modern account of the geyser regions, 
 contains the record of an adventure in the Yellow- 
 stone three years after those of Ducharne. The book 
 is a biography of one Joseph Meek, a trapper and 
 pioneer of considerable note. The adventure to which 
 reference is made took place in 1829, and was the re- 
 sult of a decision by the Rocky Mountain Fur Com- 
 pany to retire from competition with the Hudson's 
 Bay Company in the Snake River Valley. In leaving 
 the country, Captain William Sublette, the chief 
 partner, led his party up Henry Fork, across the 
 Madison and Gallatin Rivers, to the high ridge over- 
 looking the Yellowstone, at some point near the pres- 
 ent Cinnabar Mountain. Here the party was dispersed 
 by a, band of Blackfeet, and Meek, one of its mem- 
 bers, became separated from his companions. He had 
 lost his horse and most of his equipment and in this 
 condition he wandered for several days, without food 
 or shelter, until he was found by two of his compan- 
 ions. His route lay in a southerly direction, to the 
 eastward of the Yellowstone, at some distance back 
 from the river. On the morning of the fifth day he 
 had the following experience : 
 
 " Being desirous to learn something of the progress 
 he had made, he ascended a low mountain in the 
 neighborhood of his camp, and behold ! the whole 
 country beyond was smoking with vapor from boiling 
 springs, and burning with gases issuing from small 
 craters, each of which was emitting a sharp, whistling 
 sound. "When the first surprise of this astonishing 
 scene had passed, Joe began to admire its efl'ect from 
 an artistic point of view. The morning being clear. 
 
EARLY KNOWLEDGE OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 43 
 
 with a sharp frost, he thought himself reminded of 
 the City of Pittsburg, as he had beheld it on a win- 
 ter morning, a couple of years before. This, however, 
 related only to the rising smoke and vapor; for the 
 extent of the volcanic region was immense, reaching 
 far out of sight. The general face of the country was 
 smooth and rolling, being a level plain, dotted with 
 cone-shaped mounds. On the summit of these mounds 
 were small craters from four to eight feet in diameter. 
 Interspersed among these on the level plain were 
 larger craters, some of them from four to six miles 
 across. Out of these craters, issued blue flames and 
 molten brimstone."* 
 
 Making some allowance for the trapper's tendency 
 to exaggeration, we recognize in this description the 
 familiar picture of the hot springs districts. The pre- 
 cise location is difficult to determine; but Meek's 
 previous wanderings, and the subsequent route of 
 himself and his companions whom he met here, show 
 conclusively that it was one of the numerous districts 
 east of the Yellowstone, which were possibly then 
 more active than now. 
 
 This book affords much other evidence of early 
 knowledge of the country immediately bordering the 
 present Park. The Great Bend of the Yellowstone 
 where Livingston now stands, was already a famous 
 rendezvous. The Gardiner and Firehole Rivers were 
 well known to trappers ; and a much-used trail led 
 from the Madison across the Gallatin Range to the 
 Gardiner, and thence up the Yellowstone and East 
 Fork across the mountains to the Bighorn Valley. 
 
 * Page 75, " River of the West." 
 
44 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 In Vol. I, No. 17, August 13, 1842, of The Wasp, a 
 Mormon paper published at Nauvoo, III., occurs the 
 first, as it is by far the best, of all early accounts of the 
 geyser regions prior to 1870. It is an extract from an 
 unpublished work, entitled Life in the Rocky Moun- 
 tains. Who was the author will probably never be 
 known ; but that he was a man of culture and educa- 
 tion, altogether beyond the average trader, is evident 
 from the passing glimpse which we have of his work. 
 He apparently made his visit from some point in the 
 valley of Henry Pork not far west of the Firehole 
 River, for, at the utmost allowance, he traveled only 
 about sixty or seventy miles to reach the geyser 
 basins. The evidence is conclusive that the scene of 
 this visit was the Upper Geyser Basin. It fits per- 
 fectly with the description, while numerous insuperable 
 discrepancies render identification with the Lower 
 Basin, which some have sought to establish, impossi- 
 ble. Following is this writer's narrative : 
 
 " I had heard in the summer of 1833, while at ren- 
 dezvous, that remarkable boiling springs had been dis- 
 covered on the sources of the Madison, by a party of 
 trappers, in their spring hunt ; of which the accounts 
 they gave, were so very astonishing, that I determined 
 to examine them myself, before recording their de- 
 scription, though I had the united testimony of more 
 than twenty men on the subject, who all declared they 
 saw them, and that they really were as extensive and 
 remarkable as they had been described. Having now an 
 opportunity of paying them a visit, and as another or 
 a better might not occur, I parted with the company 
 after supper, and taking with me two Pend d'Oreilles 
 (who were induced to take the excursion with me, by 
 
EARLY KNOWLEDGE OF TUB YELLOWSTONE. 4S 
 
 the promise of ail extra present,) set out at a round 
 pace, the night being clear and comfortable. We pro- 
 ceeded over the plain about twenty miles, and halted 
 until daylight, on a fine spring, flowing into Camas 
 Creek. Refreshed by a few hours' sleep, we started 
 again after a hasty breakfast, and entered a very ex- 
 tensive forest, called the Pine Woods ; (a continued 
 succession of low mountains or hills, entirely cov- 
 ered with a dense growth of this species of timber ;) 
 which we passed through and reached the vicinity of 
 the springs about dark, having seen several lakes or 
 ponds on the sources of the Madison, and rode about 
 forty miles ; which was a hard day's ride, taking into 
 consideration the rough irregularity of the country 
 through which we traveled. 
 
 " We regaled ourselves with a cup of coffee, the ma- 
 terials for making which we had brought with us, and 
 immediately after supper, lay down to rest, sleepy and 
 much fatigued. The continual roaring of the springs, 
 however, (which was distinctly heard,) for some time 
 prevented my going to sleep, and excited an impatient 
 curiosity to examine them, which I was obliged to de- 
 fer the gratification of until morning, and filled iny 
 slumbers with visions of waterspouts, cataracts, foun- 
 tains, jets d'eau of immense dimensions, etc., etc. 
 
 " When I arose in the morning, clouds of vapor 
 seemed like a dense fog to overhang the springs, from 
 which frequent reports or explosions of different loud- 
 ness, constantly assailed our ears. I immediately pro- 
 ceeded to inspect them, and might have exclaimed with 
 the Queen of Sheba, when their full reality of dimen- 
 sions and novelty burst upon my view, 'the half was 
 not told me.' 
 
46 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 " From the surface of a rocky plain or table, burst 
 forth columns of water, of various dimensions, pro- 
 jecting high in the air, accompanied by loud explo- 
 sions, and sulphurous vapors, which were highly disa- 
 greeable to the smell. The rock from which these 
 springs burst forth w T as calcareous, and probably ex- 
 tends some distance from them, beneath the soil. The 
 largest of these beautiful fountains projects a column 
 of boiling water several feet in diameter, to the height 
 of more than one hundred and fifty feet, in my opin- 
 ion ; but the party of Alvarez, who discovered it, per- 
 sist in declaring that it could not be less than four 
 times that distance in height accompanied with a 
 tremendous noise. These' explosions and discharges 
 occur at intervals of about two hours. After having 
 witnessed three of them, I ventured near enough to 
 put my hand into the waters of its basin, but with- 
 drew it instantly, for the heat of the water in this 
 immense chaldron was altogether too great for my 
 comfort ; and the agitation of the water, the disagree- 
 able effluvium continually exuding, and the hollow 
 unearthly rumbling under the rock on which I stood, 
 so ill accorded with my notions of personal safety, 
 that I retreated back precipitately to a respectful dis- 
 tance. The Indians, who were with me, were quite 
 appalled, and could not by any means be induced to 
 approach them. They seemed astonished at my pre- 
 sumption in advancing up to the large one, and when 
 I safely returned, congratulated me upon my 'nar- 
 row escape.' They believed them to be supernatural 
 and supposed them to be the production of the Evil 
 Spirit. One of them remarked that hell, of which 
 he had heard from the whites, must be in that vicin- 
 
EARLY KNOWLEDGE OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 47 
 
 ity. The diameter of the basin into which the waters 
 of the largest jet principally fall, and from the center 
 of which, through a hole in the rock, of about nine 
 or ten feet in diameter, the water spouts up as above 
 related, may be about .thirty feet. There are many 
 other smaller fountains, that did not throw their wa- 
 ters up so high, but occurred at shorter intervals. In 
 some instances the volumes were projected obliquely 
 upward, and fe'll into the neighboring fountains, or 
 on the rock or prairie. But their ascent was generally 
 perpendicular, falling in and about their own basins 
 or apertures. 
 
 " These wonderful productions of nature are situ- 
 ated near the center of a small valley, surrounded by 
 pine-covered hills, through which a small fork of the 
 Madison flows." 
 
 Here we have a description, as from the pen of some 
 earlier Doane or Langford, free from exaggeration and 
 true to the facts. No one who has seen the Upper 
 Geyser Basin will question its general correctness. 
 The writer then goes on to relate what he has learned 
 from others, but here exaggeration creeps in and this 
 part of his narrative is less reliable. It continues : 
 
 u From several trappers who had recently returned 
 from the Yellow Stone, I received an account of boil- 
 ing springs that differ from those seen on Salt River 
 only in magnitude, being on a vastly larger scale ; 
 some of their cones are from twenty to thirty feet 
 high, and forty to fifty paces in circumference. Those 
 which have ceased to emit boiling, vapor, etc., of 
 which there were several, are full of shelving cavities, 
 even some fathoms in extent, which give them, in- 
 side, an appearance of honey-comb. The ground for 
 
48 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 several acres extent in vicinity of the springs is evi- 
 dently hollow, and constantly exhales a hot steam or 
 vapor of disagreeable odor, and a character entirely 
 to prevent vegetation. They are situated in the valley 
 at the head of that river near the lake, which consti- 
 tutes its source. 
 
 "A short distance from these springs, near the mar- 
 gin of the lake, there is one quite different from any 
 yet described. It is of a circular form, several feet in 
 diameter, clear, cold and pure ; the bottom appears 
 visible to the eye, and seems seven or eight feet below 
 the surface of the earth or water, without meeting 
 any resistance. What is most singular with respect 
 to this fountain is the fact that at regular intervals of 
 about two minutes, a body or column of water bursts 
 up to the height of eight feet, with an explosion 
 as loud as the report of a musket, and then falls back 
 into it ; for a few seconds the water is roily, but it 
 speedily settles and becomes transparent as before the 
 effusion. A slight tremulous motion of the water, 
 and a low rumbling sound from the caverns beneath, 
 precede each explosion. This spring was believed to 
 be connected with the lake by some subterranean pas- 
 sage, but the cause of its periodical eruptions or dis- 
 charges, is entirely unknown. I have never before 
 heard of a cold spring, whose waters exhibit the 
 phenomena of periodical explosive propulsion, in form 
 of a jet. The geysers of Iceland, and the various 
 other European springs, the waters of which are pro- 
 jected upwards, with violence and uniformity, as well 
 as those seen on the head waters of the Madison, are 
 invariably hot." 
 
 The cold water geyser above described, although 
 
EARLY KNOWLEDGE OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 49 
 
 apparently a myth, may not have been so after all. 
 In many places along the west shore of the Yellow- 
 stone Lake there are visible protuberances in the 
 water surface where boiling springs from beneath 
 force the cold water upward. It is quite possible that 
 this spring was so connected with the lake as to keep 
 constantly filled with cold water to a considerable 
 depth ; and that the eruptive energy of the spring was 
 expended in lifting the superincumbent mass without 
 giving any visible indication of the thermal action 
 below. 
 
 The whole article forms the most interesting and 
 authentic reference to the geyser regions published 
 prior to 1870. It proves beyond question that a 
 knowledge of this region existed among the early 
 trappers, and confirms our previous deduction that the 
 wide range of the fur business could not have left it 
 unexplored. 
 
 In a letter addressed by General Bonneville to the 
 Montana Historical Society,* since the creation of the 
 Yellowstone Park, he states that, at the time of his 
 sojourn in the mountains, in 1831-4, the geyser regions 
 were known to his men, although he had not personally 
 seen them. He also remembered having seen the 
 trader Alvarez, referred to in the above article. 
 
 In 1844, a large party of trappers entered the Up- 
 per Yellowstone Valley from the south, passed around 
 the west shore of the Yellowstone Lake to the outlet, 
 where they had a severe battle with the Blackfeet 
 Indians, in a broad open tract at that point. The re- 
 
 * See Appendix E, " Transactions Montana Historical Society." 
 
50 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 of their old corral were still visible as late as 
 
 1870. 
 
 There are numerous other interesting, though less 
 definite, references to an early knowledge of the Yel- 
 lowstone ; but those we have given show their general 
 character. The important fact to remember is that 
 this knowledge was barren of result. For the most 
 part it existed only in the minds of illiterate men, and 
 perished with them. It never caught the public ear 
 and did not in the least degree hasten the final dis- 
 covery. Historically interesting these early adventures 
 will always be ; as are also the Norse voyages to 
 America; but they are very far from being the Col- 
 umbus voyage of discovery. 
 
JAMES BRIDGER. 51 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 JAMES BRIDGER. 
 
 Of the early characters whose names are closely 
 linked with the history of the Yellowstone, the most 
 distinguished is James Bridger, a sketch of w r hose life 
 is given in Appendix A, under " Bridger Lake." 
 That he had often been in the region of the Yellow- 
 stone Park, and was familiar with its unique features, 
 is now well known. His first personal knowledge of 
 them is believed to date from 1824, when he is sup- 
 posed to have been upon the upper Yellowstone. It 
 is certain that before 1840 he knew of the existence 
 of the geysers in the Firehole Valley, although at that 
 time he had probably not seen them himself. Be- 
 tween 1841 and 1844 Bridger was leader of a grand 
 hunting and trapping expedition, which for upward 
 of two years, wandered over the country from the 
 Great Falls of the Missouri to Chihuahua, Mexico. 
 At some time during this expedition he entered the 
 region of the upper Yellowstone and saw most of its 
 wonders. His descriptions of the geysers and other 
 remarkable features of that locality can be traced 
 back nearly to this period and present an accuracy of 
 detail which could come only from personal observa- 
 tion. 
 
 Among the records of these descriptions the earliest 
 is that by Captain J. W. Gunnison, of the Corps of 
 Topographical Engineers, who was associated with 
 Captain Howard Stansbury, of the same corps, in the 
 
52 TIIE YELLOAVSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Salt Lake Expedition of 1849-50. The record is 
 found in Gunnison's History of the Mormons,* and 
 dates back to this expedition. It reads : 
 
 "He [Bridger] gives a picture, most romantic and 
 enticing, of the head waters of the Yellow Stone. A 
 lake, sixty miles long, cold and pellucid, lies em- ' 
 bosomed among high precipitous mountains. On the 
 west side is a sloping plain, several miles wide, with 
 clumps of trees and groves of pine. The ground re- 
 sounds with the tread of horses. Geysers spout up 
 seventy feet high, with a terrific, hissing noise, at reg- 
 ular intervals. Waterfalls are sparkling, leaping and 
 thundering down the precipices, and collect in the 
 pool below. The river issues from this lake, and for 
 fifteen miles roars through the perpendicular canon at 
 the outlet. In this section are the ' Great Springs,' 
 so hot that meat is readily cooked in them, and as 
 they descend on the successive terraces, afford at 
 length delightful baths. On thre other side is an acid 
 spring, which gushes out in a river torrent ; and be- 
 low is a caye, which supplies ' vermillion ' for the 
 savages in abundance." 
 
 In this admirable summary we readily discover the 
 Yellowstone Lake, the Grand Canon, the Falls, the 
 geyser basins, the Mammoth Hot Springs, and Cin- 
 nabar Mountain. Prior to 1860, Bridger had related 
 these accounts to Captain "Warren, Captain Raynolds, 
 Doctor Hayden, and others, and although he seems to 
 have convinced these gentlemen that there was some- 
 thing in his stories, they still attributed less to fact 
 than to fancy. 
 
 * Page 151, Gunnison's History of the Mormons. 
 See Appendix E. 
 
JAMES BRIDGER. 53 
 
 In his efforts to disseminate a knowledge of this re- 
 gion, Bridger was as determined as Colter had been 
 before him, and with little better success. He tried to 
 have his narratives published, but no periodical would 
 lend itself to his service. The editor of the Kansas 
 City Journal stated editorially in 1879 that Bridger 
 had told him of these wonders fully thirty years be- 
 fore. He prepared an article from Bridger's descrip- 
 tion, but suppressed it "because his friends ridiculed 
 the whole thing as incredible. He later publicly 
 apologized to Bridger, who was then living at West- 
 port, Missouri.* 
 
 The persistent incredulity of his countrymen, and 
 their ill-concealed suspicion of his honesty, to say noth- 
 ing of his mental soundness, were long a cloud 
 upon Bridger's life; but, more fortunate than his pro- 
 totype, Colter, he lived to see himself triumphantly 
 vindicated. Whether from disgust at this unmerited 
 
 * Of interest in this connection is the following extract from a 
 recent letter to the writer by the present managing editor of the 
 Kansas City Journal : 
 
 "The interview had with Bridger was in the year 1856. He 
 told Col. R. T. Van Horn, Editor of the Journal, which was pub- 
 lished at that time, the story of the Park with the geysers, and at 
 the same time, drew with a piece of charcoal on a piece of wrap- 
 ping paper an outline of the route necessary to be taken by a 
 railroad should it ever cross the continent, which route is exactly 
 -on the line that is now crossed by the Union Pacific. 
 
 In this conversation, he told the Colonel about the mud springs 
 and the other wonders of that part of the country, or to use his 
 own expression, ' it was a place where hell bubbled up.' 
 
 The Colonel was much interested in the matter at the time and 
 took notes of the account, but did not print it because a man who 
 claimed to know Bridger, told him that he would be laughed out 
 -of town if he printed ' any of old Jim Bridger's lies.' " 
 
54 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 treatment, or because of his love of a good story,. 
 Bridger seems-finally to have resolved that distrust of 
 his word, if it must exist, should at least have some 
 justification. He was in fact noted for " drawing the 
 long bow to an unparalleled tension," and for never 
 permitting troublesome scruples of conscience to in- 
 terfere with the proper embellishment of his yarns. 
 These were generally based upon fact, and diligent 
 search will discover in them the " soul of truth " which, 
 according to Herbert Spencer, always exists " in things 
 erroneous." These anecdotes are current even yet 
 among the inhabitants of the Yellowstone, and the 
 tourist who remains long in the Park will not fail to 
 hear them. 
 
 When Bridger found that he could not make his 
 hearers believe in the existence of a vast mass of vol- 
 canic glass, now known to all tourists as the interest- 
 ing Obsidian Cliff, he supplied them with another 
 glass mountain of a truly original sort. Its discovery 
 was the result of one of his hunting trips and it hap- 
 pened in this wise. 
 
 Coming one day in sight of a magnificent elk, he 
 took careful aim at the unsuspecting animal and fired. 
 To his great amazement, the elk not only was not 
 wounded, but seemed not even to have heard the re- 
 port of the rifle. Bridger drew considerable nearer 
 and gave the elk the benefit of his most deliberate 
 aim ; but with the same result as before. A third and 
 a fourth effort met with a similar fate. Utterly ex- 
 asperated, he seized his rifle by the barrel, resolved to 
 use it as a club since it had failed as a firearm. He 
 rushed madly toward the elk, but suddenly crashed 
 into an immovable vertical wall which proved to be a. 
 
JAMES BRIDGER. 55 
 
 mountain of perfectly transparent glass, on the farther 
 side of which, still in peaceful security, the elk was 
 quietly grazing. Stranger still, the mountain was not 
 only of pure glass, but was a perfect telescopic lens, 
 and, whereas, the elk seemed but a few hundred yards 
 ofi', it was in reality twenty -five miles away ! 
 
 Another of Bridger's discoveries was an ice-cold 
 spring near the summit of a lofty mountain, the 
 water from which flowed down over a long smooth 
 slope, where it acquired such a velocity that it was 
 boiling hot when it reached the bottom.* 
 
 An account, in which the " soul of truth " is not so 
 readily apparent, is that of a mining prospector of 
 this region, who, in later times, met a unique and hor- 
 rible fate. He had for days been traveling with a 
 party toward a prodigious diamond set in the top of a 
 mountain, where, even at noonday, it shone with a lus- 
 ter surpassing the sun. He arrived at length on the top 
 of the mountain only to see the diamond on another 
 summit apparently as far away as ever. Disheartened 
 and weary, he thought to save the labor of descent 
 
 * This story, which is taken from the report of Captain \V. F. 
 Raynolds, was one of Bridger's favorites, and it is even said that 
 he did not regard it as pleasantry at all, but as plain matter of 
 fact. Mr. Langford, who often heard him relate it, says that he 
 generally described the stream as flowing over the smooth surface 
 of a rock, and reasoned that, as two sticks rubbed together pro- 
 duce heat by friction, so the water rubbing over the rock became 
 hot. In proof, he cited an instance where the water was hot only 
 in close proximity to the rock and not at the surface. Mr. Lang- 
 ford found a partial confirmation of the fact, but not of the the- 
 ory, in fording the Firehole River in 1870. He passed over the 
 smooth deposit of an active hot spring in the bed of the stream, 
 and found that the stream bottom and the water in contact with 
 it were hot. 
 
56 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 by taking advantage of an extremely smooth face of 
 the mountain, and accordingly sat down upon his 
 shovel, as upon a toboggan, and let slide. There was a 
 vacant place around the camp-fire that evening, and 
 next day the rest of the party, passing along the base 
 of the mountain, found an infusible clay pipe and the 
 molten remains of a shovel. "Warned by the fate of 
 their comrade, the superstitious survivors forbore any 
 further search for the diamond. 
 
 To those who have visited the west shore of the Yel- 
 lowstone Lake, and know how simple a matter it is to 
 catch the lake trout and cook them in the boiling 
 pools without taking them from the line, the ground 
 work of the following description will be obvious 
 enough. Somewhere along the shore an immense boil- 
 ing spring discharges its overflow directly into the lake. 
 The specific gravity of the water is less than that of 
 the lake, owing probably to the expansive action of 
 heat, and it floats in a stratum three or four feet thick 
 upon the cold water underneath. When Bridger was 
 in need of fish it was to this place that he went. 
 Through the hot upper stratum he let fall his bait to 
 the subjacent habitable zone, and having hooked his 
 victim, cooked him on the way out! 
 
 In like manner the visitor to the region of petri- 
 factions on Specimen Ridge in the north-east corner of 
 the Park, and to various points in the hot springs dis- 
 tricts, will have no difficulty in discovering the base 
 material out of which Bridger contrived the follow- 
 ing picturesque yarn. According to his account there 
 exists in the Park country a mountain which was 
 once cursed by a great medicine man of the Crow na- 
 tion. Every thing upon the mountain at the time of 
 
JAMES BRIDGER. 57 
 
 this dire event became instantly petrified and nas re- 
 mained so ever since. All forms of life are standing 
 about in stone where they were suddenly caught by 
 the petrifying influences, even as the inhabitants of 
 ancient Pompeii were surprised by the ashes of Ve- 
 suvius. Sage brush, grass, prairie fowl, antelope, elk, 
 and bears may there be seen as perfect as in actual life. 
 Even flowers are blooming in colors of crystal, and 
 birds soar with wings spread in motionless flight, while 
 _the air floats with music and perfumes siliceous, and 
 the sun and the moon shine with 'petrified light ! 
 
 In this way Bridger avenged himself for the spirit 
 of distrust so often shown for what he had related. 
 The time presently came, however, when the public 
 learned, not only how large a measure of truth there 
 was in his stories, but also how ingenious a tale he 
 could weave from very inadequate material. 
 
58 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 RAYNOLDS' EXPEDITION. 
 
 On the 13th of April, 1859, Captain W. F. Raynolds, 
 of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, U. S. A., was 
 ordered to explore " the region of country through 
 which flow the principal tributaries of the Yellow- 
 stone River, and the mountains in which they, and the 
 Gallatin and Madison Forks of the Missouri, have 
 their source." This was the first government expedi- 
 tion * directed to the precise locality which is now em- 
 braced in the Yellowstone National Park. It is inter- 
 esting to us, not for what it accomplished for it for- 
 tunately failed to penetrate the Upper Yellowstone 
 country but because it gives an admirable resume, 
 in the form of a report and a map, of the geographical 
 knowledge of that country down to the date of actual 
 discovery. 
 
 Captain Raynolds was in the field during the two 
 seasons of 1859 and 1860 ; but it was only in the sum- 
 mer of 1860 that he directed his efforts toward the 
 country in which we are particularly interested. In 
 May of that year the expedition left its winter quar- 
 ters at Deer Creek, Wyo., and marched to the junction 
 of the Wind River and the Popo Agie where these 
 streams unite under the name of Bighorn River. Here 
 
 * Accompanying this expedition as geologist was Dr. F. V. Hay- 
 den, whose name is so intimately connected with the history of 
 the Yellowstone Park. James Bridger was guide to the party. 
 
RAYNOLDS' EXPEDITION. 59 
 
 the party divided. One division under Captain Ray- 
 nolds was to ascend the Wind River to its source and 
 then cross to the head waters of the Yellowstone. This 
 stream they were to follow down to the Great Bend, 
 and then cross over to the Three Forks of the Mis- 
 souri. The other party, under Lieutenant Maynadier, 
 was to skirt the east and north flanks of the Absarokn 
 Range and to join the first party at the Three Forks, 
 if possible, not later than July 1st. 
 
 Captain Raynolds was charged with other instruc- 
 tions than those mentioned in his order, which must be 
 kept in mind in order properly to account for the final 
 outcome of the expedition. A total eclipse of the 
 sun was to occur on July 18th of that year, and its 
 line of greatest occupation lay north of the British 
 boundary. It was desired that Captain Raynolds 
 should be present in that locality in time to observe 
 the eclipse. This condition, rather than impassable 
 mountains or unmelted snows, was the chief obstacle 
 to a thorough exploration of the Upper Yellowstone. 
 
 The two parties separated May 24th. Captain Ray- 
 nolds, according to his programme, kept up the Wind 
 River valley, and with much difficulty effected a cross- 
 ing by way of Union Pass which he named to the 
 western slope of the mountains. He then turned north 
 seeking a passage to the head waters of the Yellow- 
 stone. When nearly opposite Two-Ocean Pass, he 
 made a strenuous effort to force his way through, 
 spending two days in the attempt. But it was still 
 June and the snow lay deep on the mountains. It 
 was a physical impossibility to get through at that 
 point, and the risk of missing the eclipse forebade 
 
60 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 efforts elsewhere. The Captain was deeply disap- 
 pointed at this result. He writes : 
 
 " My fondly cherished schemes of this nature were 
 all dissipated by the prospect before us ; ... and 
 I therefore very reluctantly decided to abandon the 
 plan to which I had so steadily clung." 
 
 It seems not a little singular that so experienced a 
 guide as Bridger should not have conducted the party 
 up the valley of the Snake River and thence over the 
 low divide between that stream and the Yellowstone 
 Lake a route which was perfectly practicable even as 
 early as June. But the plan does not appear to have 
 been entertained, and the expedition passed around 
 the Park region to the west, arriving at the Three 
 Forks on the 29th of June. 
 
 Lieutenant Maynadier wisely made no attempt to 
 cross the Absaroka Range, which rose continuously 
 on his left. Had he done so, the deep snow at that 
 season would have rendered his efforts futile. He 
 kept close to the flank of the mountains until he 
 reached the valley of the Yellowstone north of the 
 Park, and then hastened to join his commanding 
 officer at the appointed rendezvous. He reached the 
 Three Forks on the 3d day of July. 
 
 The expedition had now completely encircled the 
 region of the Upper Yellowstone. At one point Cap- 
 tain Raynolds had stood where his eye could range 
 over all that country \vhich has since become so 
 famous ; but this w r as the limit of his endeavor. The 
 Yellowstone wonderland was spared the misfortune of 
 being discovered at so early a day .a fact quite as 
 fortunate as any in its history. 
 
 It will be interesting now to survey this region as 
 
KAYNOLDS' EXPEDITION. 61 
 
 known at the time of the Kaynolds Expedition. 
 Nothing of importance occurred to increase public 
 knowledge of it until 1870, and Captain Raynolds' * 
 Report is therefore the latest authentic utterance con- 
 cerning it prior to the date of actual discovery. In 
 this report Captain Raynolds says : 
 
 " Beyond these [the mountains south-east of the 
 Park], is the valley of the Upper Yellowstone, which 
 is as yet a terra incognita. My expedition passed en- 
 tirely around, but could not penetrate it. ... 
 Although it was June, the immense body of snow 
 baffled all our exertions, and we were compelled to 
 content ourselves with listening to marvelous tales of 
 burning plains, immense lakes, and boiling springs, 
 without being able to verify these wonders. I know 
 of but two men who claim to have ever visited this 
 part of the Yellowstone Valley James Bridger and 
 Robert Meldrum. The narratives of both these men 
 are very remarkable, and Bridger, in one of his re- 
 citals, described an immense boiling spring, that is a 
 perfect counterpart of the geysers of Iceland. As he 
 is uneducated, and had probably never heard of the 
 existence of such natural wonders elsewhere, I have 
 little doubt that he spoke of that which he had actu- 
 ally seen. . . . Bridger also insisted that imme- 
 diately westfof the point at which we made our final 
 effort to penetrate this singular valley, there is a 
 stream of considerable size, which divides and flows 
 down either side of the water-shed, thus discharging 
 its waters into both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans." 
 
 * See Bibliography, Appendix E, " Explorations of the Yellow- 
 stone," etc. 
 T Actually north-east. 
 
62 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 The Captain concludes this particular part of his 
 report as follows : 
 
 " I can not doubt, therefore, that at no very distant 
 day, the mysteries of this region will be fully re- 
 vealed ; and, although small in extent, I regard the 
 valley of the Upper Yellowstone as the most inter- 
 esting unexplored district in our widely* expanded 
 country." 
 
 Lieutenant Maynadier also contributes a few inter- 
 esting observations upon this region. The vast im- 
 portance of that extensive mass of mountains, as a 
 reservoir of waters for the country round about, im- 
 pressed him deeply. He says, somewhat ostenta- 
 tiously : 
 
 "As my fancy warmed with the wealth of desola- 
 tion before me, I found something to admire in the 
 calm self-denial with which this region, content with 
 barren magnificence, gives up its water and soil to 
 more favored countries." 
 
 Of the Yellowstone River, he was told that it had 
 its source "in a lake in the impenetrable fastnesses of 
 the Rocky Mountains ;" and that for some distance 
 below the lake it flowed through a narrow gorge, up 
 which " no one has ever been able to travel." 
 
 But it is the map prepared by Captain Raynolds 
 that tells a more interesting story even than his writ- 
 ten report. It reveals at once to the eye what was 
 known as well as what was unknown of the Upper 
 Yellowstone. Extending in a south-easterly and 
 north-westerly direction, is a large elliptical space, 
 within which geographical features are represented 
 by dotted lines, indicating that they are put in by 
 hearsay only. In the midst of a surrounding 1 coun- 
 
MAP 
 
 OF TUB 
 
 SOURCES or THE YELLOWSTONE 
 
 AS KNOWN BETWEEN IBtit) AND 18TO 
 FROM THE MAP 
 
 Opp puge (JZ. 
 
RAYNOLDS' EXPEDITION. 63 
 
 try, which is already mapped with great accuracy, 
 there is a region wholly unknown to the geographer. 
 A cordon of mountains encircles it, and shows the 
 limit of official effort to gain a correct knowledge of 
 it. Within this enchanted inclosure lies the region 
 approximately defined by the 44th and 45th parallels 
 of latitude and the 110th and lllth meridians of 
 longitude, which now constitutes the Yellowstone 
 National Park. There one may catch glimpses, 
 through the uncertain haze of tradition, of the gey- 
 sers, hot springs, Lake, Falls, Grand Canon, Mam- 
 moth Hot Springs, and Two-Ocean Pass. This was 
 the net result of fifty years' desultory wandering in 
 and about and over this " mystic " region. 
 
 Raynolds' report, it must be remembered, was the 
 first official recognition in any form of the probable 
 existence of extensive volcanic phenomena in the re- 
 gion of the Upper Yellowstone. Had it been 1 pub- 
 lished immediately after the expedition, and had not 
 public attention been totally engrossed with other 
 matters of overshadowing importance, this region must 
 have become fully known in the early Sixties. But 
 within a month after the return of Captain Raynolds 
 to civilization there had taken place the national 
 election which was the signal for attempted armed 
 disruption of the Union. A year later found every 
 officer of the Army called to new fields of duty. 
 "Western exploration entirely ceased until 1865, and 
 was not vigorously resumed for some years thereafter. 
 Captain Raynolds' report did not appear until 1868, 
 although his map was published several years earlier 
 in order to meet a demand for it by the new settlers 
 
64 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 in western Montana* Nothing transpired in the 
 meantime to make the general public familiar with 
 this region, and the picture here given is therefore 
 substantially correct down to the date of the cele- 
 brated Washburn expedition. 
 
GOLD IN MONTANA. 65 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 GOLD IN MONTANA. 
 
 Perhaps the most fascinating pages of American 
 history are those which recount the annals of the dis- 
 coveries of gold and silver. No one can appreciate 
 the magnitude of those various movements by a 
 simple perusal of statistics of the mineral wealth 
 which they disclosed. .He must pass through the 
 mining belts and note how almost every rod of 
 ground, over vast tracts of country, is filled with pros- 
 pect holes that attest the miner's former presence. If 
 the trapper carried the tools of his trade to haunts 
 remote and inaccessible, the miner, with his pick and 
 shovel, certainly outdid him. One can readily under- 
 stand that, as soon as such a movement should be 
 directed toward the region of the Upper Yellow- 
 stone, the wonders of that region would speedily be 
 revealed. 
 
 The presence of gold in the mountains of Montana 
 was first noticed as far back as 1852. Later, in 1858, 
 the Stuart brothers, James and Granville, founders of 
 Montana, discovered gold in the Deer Lodge Valley; 
 but they were destitute of equipments, and so con- 
 stantly exposed to the hostility of the Blackfeet, that 
 they went to Fort Briclger in the south-west corner of 
 Wyoming, and did not return until late in 1860. 
 
 It was in 1860 and 1861 that the rich mines 
 on the Salmon and Boise rivers were discovered. 
 In 1862 the tide of discovery swept across the 
 
66 THE 1'ELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 mountains into Montana. The rich mines on Pioneer 
 Creek, the Big Prickly Pear, the Big Hole River, 
 Xorth Boulder Creek, and at Bannock and other 
 points, became known. Although there were scarcely 
 a thousand people in Montana in the winter of 
 1862-3, the news of the great discoveries marshaled 
 a host of immigrants ready to enter the terri- 
 tory in the following spring. These were largely 
 re-enforced by adventurers from both the northern 
 and southern states, who, with little credit to their 
 courage or patriotism, sought in these remote regions 
 exemption from the tributes and levies of war. The 
 immigrants were welcomed in the spring of 1863 by 
 the news of the discovery of Alder Gulch, the richest 
 of all gold placers. The work of prospecting, already 
 being pushed with vigor, was stimulated to an extra- 
 ordinary degree by this magnificent discovery. Pros- 
 pecting parties scoured the country in all directions, 
 often with loss of life through the Indians, but rarely, 
 after the first two or three years, with any substantial 
 success. Some of these expeditions have a partic- 
 ular connection with our narrative because they 
 passed across portions of what is now the Yellow- 
 stone Park. 
 
 The most important of them occurred in August and 
 September, 1863. It was led by Walter W. DeLacy, 
 an engineer and surveyor of some distinction in the 
 early history of Montana. The party at one time 
 numbered forty-two men, although this number did 
 not continue constant thoughout the expedition. Its 
 sole object was to "prospect" the country. Evi- 
 dently nothing in the line of topographical recon- 
 naissance was thought of, for Captain DeLacy says 
 
GOLD IX MONTANA. 67 
 
 *' there was not a telescope, and hardly a watch, iu 
 the whole party." 
 
 The expedition left Virginia City, August 3d ; 
 passed south into Idaho until it struck the Snake 
 River, and then ascended that stream to the region 
 about Jackson Lake. Near the mouth of Buffalo 
 Fork a halt was made, a corral was built to hold the 
 stock, and a miners' meeting held at which rules were 
 adopted to govern the miners in the contemplated 
 examination of the country. The party then broke 
 up into small groups and set out in different direc- 
 tions so as to cover as much ground as possible. The 
 last four days of August were spent in this search, 
 but with failure in every direction. This discourage- 
 ment led to the abandonment of the expedition. 
 Fifteen men set out for home by the way they had 
 come, while DeLacy and twenty-seven men resolved 
 to reach the Madison River and the settlements by 
 going north. A day later this party entered the ter- 
 ritory which is now the Yellowstone Park. 
 
 The route lay up the Snake River to its junction 
 with Lewis River where the hot springs of that lo- 
 cality were discovered. Here another separation oc- 
 curred. About half the party went back down the 
 river to re-examine a locality where they thought 
 they had found some fair prospects. They soon re- 
 turned, however, unsuccessful. The main party un- 
 der DeLacy ascended the hills to the west of the 
 river to seek a more practicable route. They soon 
 reached the summit of the plateau where they dis- 
 covered what are now Hering and Beula lakes, and 
 noted their divergent drainage. Thence they passed 
 north over Pitchstone Plateau until they struck the 
 
68 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 valley of Moose Creek. They descended this stream 
 for a few miles and came to a large lake, which they 
 supposed to be tributary to either the Madison or the 
 Yellowstone Rivers. To their great surprise they 
 found, upon rounding its southern point, that it 
 drained south into the Snake. This is what is now 
 called Shoshone Lake. 
 
 From the outlet of the lake, DeLacy sent a man 
 down stream to examine the river. This reconnais- 
 sance resulted in the discovery of Lewis Lake and the 
 hot springs basin there. "When DeLacy resumed his 
 route, he followed along the east shore of the lake 
 to its northern extremity, and then ascended the 
 beautiful open valley of DeLacy Creek. He crossed 
 the Continental Divide at the head of the valley, and 
 camped on the evening of September 8th some miles 
 beyond the Divide toward the Firehole River. The 
 next morning, September 9, 1863, he came upon the con- 
 siderable stream of hot water which flows down a moun- 
 tain ravine into the Lower Geyser Basin close by the 
 Great Fountain Geyser. The reader will learn with 
 some amazement that our party thought little enough 
 of this wonderful locality to pass directly through it 
 without halt or perceptible delay. Before the camp- 
 ing hour of the afternoon had arrived, they were 
 many miles away at the junction of the Gibbon and 
 Firehole rivers. 
 
 The other section of the party, which had gone down 
 the Snake from its junction with Lewis River, soon re- 
 turned, followed up the river to Lewis and Shoshone 
 lakes, passed around the western end of the latter 
 lake discovering its extensive geyser basin, and thence 
 crossed over to the Madison. This stream thev de- 
 
GOLD IN MONTANA. 69 
 
 scended through the geyser basins, and followed the 
 main party to the settlements. 
 
 DeLacy might have passed into history as the real 
 discoverer of the Yellowstone wonderland, but for the 
 fact that he failed to appreciate the true importance 
 of what he saw. In that, however, he was no exception 
 to the general rule of immigrants. The search for gold 
 with them so far overshadowed all other matters, that 
 it would have required something more than geysers to 
 divert them, even momentarily, from its prosecution. 
 Although DeLacy kept a daily journal of his expedi- 
 tion, and noted therein the various items of interest 
 along his route, he did not publish it until 1876, long 
 after public interest had been strongly attracted to 
 the geyser regions. He did, howeve'r, publish a map 
 of the country through which he passed, and on this 
 map he correctly noted the drainage of Shoshone Lake 
 something which the Folsom, Washburn, and Haydeu 
 (1871), expeditions all failed to do. He also noted the 
 various hot springs localities through which the party 
 passed. In a letter published in Raymond's " Mineral 
 Resources of the States and Territories West of the 
 Rocky Mountains," in 1869, before the date of the 
 Washburn Expedition, he called attention to the ex- 
 istence of geysers at the head of Shoshone Lake and 
 on the Madison River. 
 
 DeLacy's account, as finally published, is an inter- 
 esting early view of this region, and is remarkable for 
 its general correctness. That he failed to publish his 
 discoveries must be regarded as fortunate so far as the 
 Park is concerned, for the time had not yet come 
 when it was desirable that the real character of this 
 country should be made known. 
 
70 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 From 1863 to 1869 there were many other prospect- 
 ing parties in the region of the Upper Yellowstone. In 
 1863 one of these parties, numbering thirty or forty men, 
 ascended the Yellowstone and the East Fork to the 
 mouth of Soda Butte Creek, and thence crossed an in- 
 tervening ridge to the next northern tributary of the 
 East Fork. Here all their horses were stolen by In- 
 dians. There were left only one or two mules on which 
 was packed all the baggage they could carry, the rest 
 being concealed in a cache. The party then separated 
 into two portions and prospected the country for sev- 
 eral days in the vicinity of Clark's Fork. They finally 
 returned, emptied the cache, and descended to the Yel- 
 lowstone where they found fair prospects near the pres- 
 ent north boundary of the Park. The expedition has 
 no permanent interest for this narrative except that it 
 left the two geographical names, " Cache Creek " and 
 " Bear Gulch." 
 
 In 1864, a party of seventy-three men under James 
 Stuart passed from Deer Lodge, Montana, to the Yel- 
 lowstone Valley, and thence around the east base of 
 the Absaroka Range into the valley of the Stinking- 
 water. The object of this expedition was to punish 
 the Indians for outrages of the previous year, and also 
 to prospect the country for gold. At the Stinking- 
 water, Stuart was compelled to return home. The 
 party then separated into groups that gradually 
 worked their way back to the Montana settlements. 
 One of these small parties went as far south as the 
 Sweetwater River, then crossed to the Green and Snake 
 Rivers, and recrossed the Continental Divide at Two- 
 Ocean Pass. They descended the Yellowstone, past 
 the Lake and Grand Canon, and beyond the present 
 
GOLD IN MONTANA. 71 
 
 limits of the Park. Xorris found remnants of their 
 camp debris seventeen years afterward. 
 
 In 1866, a party under one George Huston left Vir- 
 ginia City, Montana, and ascended the Madison River 
 to the geyser basins. Thence they crossed to the 
 Yellowstone at Mud Geyser, ascended the river to the 
 lake, passed completely around the latter, discovering 
 Hart Lake on their way, and then descended the Yel- 
 lowstone by the Falls and Canon, to Emigrant Gulch. 
 Here they were interviewed by a newspaper reporter, 
 and an account of their travels was published in the 
 Omaha Herald. They had seen about all there was 
 to be seen in the whole region. 
 
 At least two parties traversed the Park country in 
 1867. One of these gave names to Crevice, Hell- 
 roaring and Slough Creeks. An account of the wan- 
 derings of the other party appeared in the Montana 
 Post of that year. 
 
 Many other parties and individuals passed through 
 this region during the Montana mining craze. Their 
 accounts appeared now and then in the local papers, 
 and were reprinted throughout the country. By 1869, 
 probably very few of the reading public had not heard 
 rumors of a strange volcanic region in the Far West. 
 In Montana, particularly, repeated confirmation of the 
 old trappers' tales was gradually arousing a deep in- 
 terest, and the time was fast approaching when ex- 
 plorations for the specific purpose of verifying these 
 rumors were to begin. 
 
72 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 DISCOVERY. 
 
 The discovery of the Yellowstone Wonderland by 
 which is here meant its full and final disclosure to the 
 world was the work of three parties who visited and 
 explored it in the years 1869, 1870, and 1871, respect- 
 ively. The first of these expeditions was purely a 
 private enterprise. It consisted of three men, and 
 was the first party to enter this country with the ex- 
 press purpose of verifying or refuting the floating 
 rumors concerning it. The second expedition was 
 of a mixed character, having semi-official sanction, 
 but being organized and recruited by private individ- 
 uals. This was the famous " Yellowstone Expedition 
 of 1870" the great starting point in the post-tradi- 
 tional history of the Park. The third expedition was 
 strictly official, under the military and scientific de- 
 partments of the government. It was a direct result 
 of the explorations of 1870, and was intended to sat- 
 isfy the public demand for accurate and official inform- 
 ation concerning this new region of wonders. It was 
 the final and necessary step in order that the govern- 
 ment might act intelligently and promptly for the 
 preservation of what was believed to be the most in- 
 teresting collection of wonders to be found in the 
 world.* 
 
 THE EXPEDITION OF 1869. 
 
 The question of setting definitely at rest the con- 
 stantly multiplying rumors of wonderful volcanic 
 
 * For diagram of routes, see Historical Chart, p. 11. 
 
DISCOVERY. 73 
 
 phenomena around the sources of the Yellowstone, 
 began to be seriously agitated among the people of 
 Montana as early as 1867. An expedition was planned 
 for that year but came to nothing. A like result at- 
 tended a similar effort the following year. In 1869, 
 the proposition came near materializing, but fell 
 through at the last moment owing to the failure to 
 obtain a military escort. There were three members 
 of this proposed expedition, however, who refused to 
 be frightened off' by any dangers which the situation 
 at that time promised. They had already provided 
 themselves with an elaborate equipment, and were de- 
 termined, with escort or without it, to undertake the 
 trip. The names of these men were David E. Fol- 
 som, C. W. Cook, and William Peterson, the last 
 named being a native of Denmark. Armed with " re- 
 peating rifles, Colt's six-shooters, and sheath-knives," 
 with a "double-barreled shot gun for small game;" 
 and equipped with a "good field-glass, pocket com- 
 pass and thermometer," and utensils and provisions 
 "fora six weeks' trip," they set out from Diamond 
 City on the Missouri River, forty miles from Helena, 
 September 6, 1869. 
 
 The route lay up the Missouri to the Three Forks ; 
 thence via Bozeman and Fort Ellis to the Yellowstone 
 River; and thence up the Yellowstone to its junction 
 with the East Fork inside the present limits of the 
 Park. From this point they crossed to the east bank 
 and followed up the river, passing through the many 
 groups of hot springs to be found east of the Grand 
 Canon. On September 21st, they arrived at the Falls of 
 the Yellowstone, where they remained an entire day. 
 
74 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Some distance above the rapids they re-crossed to the 
 west shore and then ascended the river past Sul- 
 phur Mountain and Mud Volcano to Yellowstone 
 Lake. They then went to the extreme west shore 
 of the lake and spent some time examining the 
 surpassingly beautiful springs at that point. Thence 
 they crossed the mountains to Shoshone Lake, which 
 they took to be the head of the Madison, and from 
 that point struck out to the north-west over a toil- 
 some country until they reached the Lower Geyser 
 Basin near Kez Perce Creek. Here they saw the Foun- 
 tain Geyser in action and the many other phenomena 
 in that locality. They ascended the Firehole River to 
 Excelsior Geyser and Prismatic Lake, and then turned 
 down the river on their way home. They were ab- 
 sent on the expedition thirty-six days. 
 
 It is said that these explorers were so astonished at 
 the marvels they had seen that "they were, on their re- 
 turn, unwilling to risk their reputations for veracity by 
 a full recital of them to a small company whom their 
 friends had assembled to hear the account of their ex- 
 plorations." But Mr. Folsom later prepared a most 
 entertaining narrative of his journey which was pub- 
 lished in the Western Monthly, of Chicago, in July, 
 1871.* This article deserves a high rank in the litera- 
 ture of the Park. It is free from exaggeration and 
 
 * It is only through- the undiminished loyalty of Mr. N. P. 
 Langford to every thing pertaining to the welfare of the Yellow- 
 stone National Park that this article has been saved from oblivion. 
 The office of the Western Monthly was destroyed by the great Chi- 
 cago fire of 1871, and all the files of the magazine were lost. Mr. 
 Folsom had lost or given away all copies in his possession. So 
 far as is known there is but one remaining copy of this issue and 
 that is owned by Mr. Langford. In 1894, Mr. Langford caused the 
 
DISCOVERY. 75 
 
 contains some descriptions unsurpassed by any subse- 
 quent writer. The article, and personal interviews 
 with the author and his companions, had a strong in- 
 influence in leading to the important expedition next 
 to be described. 
 
 THE EXPEDITION OF 1870. 
 
 The Yellowstone Expedition of 1870, more commonly 
 known as the Washburn-Doane Expedition, was the 
 culmination of the project of discovery to which fre- 
 quent reference has already been made. At this time 
 the subject was exciting a profound interest through- 
 out Montana, and the leading citizens of the territory 
 were active in organizing a grand expedition. Gen- 
 eral Sheridan, who passed through Helena just prior 
 to his departure for the scene of the Franco-German 
 War, spent some time in arranging for a military es- 
 cort to accompany the party. The project did not as- 
 sume definite shape until about the middle of August, 
 and when the time for departure arrived, Indian 
 alarms caused a majority of the party to repent their 
 decision to join it. Finally, their were only nine per- 
 sons who were willing to brave all dangers for the 
 success of the undertaking. These nine were : 
 
 General Henry D. Washburn, Surveyor-General of 
 Montana, chief of the expedition, and author of a 
 series of valuable " notes " describing it.* 
 
 Hon. Nathaniel P. Langford, who published a series 
 of articles in Scribners Magazine,* which gave general 
 
 article to be reprinted in handsome pamphlet form, with an in- 
 teresting preface by himself, and it will now receive the recogni- 
 tion which it justly deserves. 
 * See Appendix E. 
 
70 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 publicity to the news of discovery. He became first 
 Superintendent of the Park. 
 
 Hon. Cornelius Hedges, who first proposed setting 
 apart this region as a National Park. 
 
 Hon. Truman C. "Everts, ex-TJ. S. Assessor for Mon- 
 tana, whose experience upon the expedition forms the 
 most painful and thrilling chapter in the annals of the 
 Yellowstone. 
 
 Hon. Samuel T. Hauser, President of the First Na- 
 tional Bank of Helena, and later Governor of Mon- 
 tana. 
 
 Walter Trumbull, son of the late Senator Trumbull. 
 He published an account of the expedition in the 
 Overland Monthly for June, 1871.* 
 
 Other civilian members of the expedition were 
 Benjamin Stickney, Jr., "Warren C. Gillette, and Ja- 
 oob Smith. * 
 
 The personnel of this party is sufficient evidence of 
 the widespread interest which was being taken at the 
 time in the region of the Upper Yellowstone. 
 
 The party proceeded from Helena to Fort Ellis, one 
 hundred and twenty-five miles, where they were to 
 receive a military escort promised by General Han- 
 cock, at that time commanding the department in 
 which Fort Ellis was located. The post order detail- 
 ing this escort is dated August 21, 1870, and directs 
 Lieutenant Gustavus C. Doane, Second Cavalry, with 
 one sergeant and four privates, "to escort the Sur- 
 veyor-General of Montana to the falls and lakes of the 
 Yellowstone and return." There is a significant ab- 
 sence in this order of any reference to geysers or hot 
 
 * See Appendix E. 
 
DISCOVERY. 77 
 
 springs ; and the discreet post commander evidently 
 did not intend to commit himself to a recognition of 
 their existence on the strength of such knowledge as 
 was then available. His incredulity was indeed largely 
 shared hy the members of the party themselves. Mr. 
 Hedges subsequently said : 
 
 " I think a more confirmed set of sceptics never 
 went out into the wilderness than those who composed 
 our party, and never was a party more completely 
 surprised and captivated with the wonders of na- 
 ture." 
 
 Lieutenant Doane, than whom no member of the 
 expedition holds a more honorable place in its history, 
 has left on record a similar confession. 
 
 The party as finally organized, including two pack- 
 ers and two colored cooks, numbered nineteen indi- 
 viduals. Thirty-five horses and mules, thoroughly 
 equipped for a month's absence, completed the " out- 
 fit," and made altogether quite an imposing caval- 
 cade. 
 
 August 22, 1870, the expedition left Fort Ellis, 
 crossed to the Yellowstone, and ascended that stream 
 through the First and Second Canons, past the 
 ''Devil's Slide" and Cinnabar Mountain, to t the pres- 
 ent north boundary line of the Park at the mouth of 
 the Gardiner River. At this point they were within 
 five miles of the celebrated Mammoth Hot Springs 
 which are now the first attraction to meet the tourist's 
 eye on entering the Park. But the party kept close 
 to the Yellowstone, instead of taking the modern 
 route up the Gardinei, and missed this wonder alto- 
 gether. 
 
 It was August 26th when the expedition entered 
 
78 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 the present territory of the Park. Lieutenant Doane 
 and Mr. Everts,- with one soldier and two hunters 
 picked up on the way, rode in advance along the brink 
 of the Third Canon and across the high plateau be- 
 tween the Gardiner and Tower Creek, camping at 
 nightfall upon the latter stream. In the broad open 
 valley near the junction of the Yellowstone and East 
 Fork, a small tepid sulphur spring gave them the first 
 evidence of their approach to the regions of volcanic 
 activity. 
 
 !N"ext day, the remainder of the party arrived. Two 
 days were spent in examining the beautiful Tower 
 Falls, and to our tyros in geyser exploration the 
 wonderful hot spring formations to be seen at that 
 point. Here they also had for the first time glimpses 
 of the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone. 
 
 The party left Tower Creek on the 29th of August, 
 and followed up the river over the east flank of Mount 
 Washburn. As their progress lifted them rapidly 
 above the surrounding country, a marvelously beauti- 
 ful landscape unfolded itself to their view. Presently 
 an interesting incident occurred, which shall stand 
 here in Lieutenant Doane's own language : 
 
 " Through the mountain gap formed by the canon, 
 and on the interior slopes some twenty [evidently a 
 misprint] miles distant, an object now appeared which 
 drew a simultaneous expression of wonder from every 
 one of the party. A column of steam, rising from 
 the dense woods to the height of several hundred 
 feet, became distinctly visible. We had all heard 
 fabulous stories of this region, and were somewhat 
 skeptical of appearances. At first it was pronounced 
 a fire in the woods, but presently some one noticed 
 
DISCOVERY. 79 
 
 that the vapor rose in regular puff's, as if expelled 
 with great force. Then conviction was forced upon 
 us. It was indeed a great column of steam, puffing 
 away on the lofty mountain side, escaping with a 
 roaring sound audible at a long distance, even through 
 the heavy forest. A hearty cheer rang out at this 
 discovery, and we pressed onward with renewed en- 
 thusiasm." 
 
 The party then ascended the lofty mountain to their 
 right, now known as Mt. Washburn, and from its 
 summit looked around upon the vast panorama which 
 is now included in the Yellowstone National Park. 
 Had old James Bridger been present at that moment, 
 he would have received ample vindication for long- 
 standing injustice at the hands of his incredulous 
 countrymen. There were the Canon and Falls and 
 Lake of the Yellowstone, with evidence enough of 
 boiling springs and geysers ! The enthusiasm of the 
 party was unbounded, and Lieutenant Doane exult- 
 ingly declares that they were "more than satisfied 
 with the opening up of the campaign." 
 
 The pack-train continued its course along the side 
 of the mountain, and went into camp after a march 
 of only twelve miles. That evening, Messrs. Wash- 
 burn, Doane, and Hedges went on ahead of the main 
 party, discovering the extensive mud springs at the 
 southern base of the mountain, and finally reached 
 the verge of a cliff' beyond which yawned the stu- 
 pendous canon of the Yellowstone. It was the first 
 real view from near by, but darkness prevented fur- 
 ther examination. 
 
 The next day saw the arrival of the party at the 
 Falls of the Yellowstone, close by the mouth of Cas- 
 
80 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 cade Creek, which, with its Crystal Falls, received, 
 that day their present names. The remainder of this 
 day, August 30th, and the next, were spent in explor- 
 ing the canon and measuring the heights of the falls. 
 Messrs. Hauser and Stickney descended the sides of the 
 caflon to thebrink of the river about two miles below the 
 falls; and Lieutenant Doane and Private McConnell 
 accomplished the same difficult feat further down. It 
 needs not to be said that the members of the party 
 were profoundly impressed with the incomparable 
 scenery of the Grand Caflon, although their descrip- 
 tions of it are, perhaps, least satisfactory of any they 
 have left us. 
 
 From the Canon the party ascended the now placid 
 river amid ever-changing wonders. They passed Sul- 
 phur Mountain and the uncanny region around the 
 Mud Volcano and Mud Geyser, then crossed to the 
 east shore of the river, and finally went into camp, 
 September 3d, on the shore of the Yellowstone Lake. 
 Here our explorers were again in ecstacies, and not 
 without cause; for, seen under favoring conditions, 
 this " watery solitude " is one of the most beautiful 
 objects in nature. 
 
 After a day spent in this camp, the expedition con- 
 tinued by slow stages up the east shore of the lake. 
 Messrs. Doane and Langford scaled the lofty Absa- 
 roka Range just east of the lake, being the first 
 white men known to have accomplished this feat, and 
 their names now designate two of its noblest sum- 
 mits. 
 
 September 7th, the party forded the Upper Yellow- 
 stone and traversed the almost impassable labyrinths 
 of fallen timber between the several projecting arms. 
 
DISCOVERY. 81 
 
 on the south of the lake. It was on this portion of 
 the route, September 9th, that Mr. Everts became 
 separated from his party, lost his horse with all his 
 accouterments, and commenced those " thirty-seven 
 days of peril," which so nearly cost him his life. This 
 unfortunate affair cast a deep gloom over the little 
 party and seriously interfered with the progress of the 
 expedition. A week was spent in searching for the 
 lost companion, without other result than the discov- 
 ery of the hot springs basins at Hart Lake and on the 
 west shore of the Yellowstone Lake. 
 
 At length it was concluded that Mr. Everts had 
 either been killed or had wandered back home ; and 
 it was resolved to wait no longer. The party were 
 surfeited with sight-seeing, and believed that they had 
 now covered the whole ground. They therefore de- 
 termined to strike across the mountains to the Madison 
 and follow that stream to the settlements. They set 
 out on the morning of September 17th, over rugged 
 hills and through fallen timber, crossing the Conti- 
 nental Divide twice, and camping that night in an 
 open glade on a small branch of the Firehole. While 
 passing the second time over the Divide^ they caught 
 a glimpse of Shoshone Lake and erroneously thought 
 it to be the head of the Firehole River. 
 
 At 9 A. M., September 18th, the march was resumed. 
 The party soon reached the Firehole just above Kepler 
 Cascade and thence followed down the course of the 
 stream. Tourists who have visited the Park since 
 1891, when the new road from the Upper Basin to 
 the Lake was opened, will remember that immediately 
 after leaving " Old Faithful " they plunge into an un- 
 broken pine forest and see no other evidences of 
 
82 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 geyser action until they reach the Lake. The situa- 
 tion of our homeward-bound explorers can thus be 
 easily understood. They were traveling toward the 
 geysers. The dense forest concealed every thing be- 
 yond the radius of a few hundred feet. In unsuspect- 
 ing mood, bent only on getting home to tell their 
 wonderful story, and perhaps to find their missing 
 companion, they moved down the river, crossing it 
 considerably below the site of the present bridge 
 above the Upper Basin, and suddenly emerged from 
 the timber into an open treeless valley. It was 
 nearly noon of a clear, cool September day. Directly 
 in front of them, scarcely two hundred yards away, 
 a vertical column of water and steam was shooting 
 upward a hundred and fifty feet into the air. The 
 bright sunlight turned the clear water into a mass of 
 glittering crystals, and a gentle breeze wafted the 
 vast white curtain of steam far to the right across the 
 valley. Thus it was that " Old Faithful," as if fore- 
 warned of the approach of her distinguished visitors, 
 gave them her most graceful salutation ; and thus she 
 bowed out the era of tradition and fable, and ush- 
 ered the civilized world into the untrodden empire 
 of the Fire King. Little wonder that our astonished 
 explorers " spurred their jaded horses," and " gathered 
 around the wonderful phenomenon." 
 
 The party spent only the remainder of the day and 
 the following morning in the Upper Basin ; but in 
 that time saw seven of the principal geysers in action, 
 and gave them their present names.* They then 
 passed down the river through the Middle and Lower 
 Basins, but stopped to examine only such curiosities 
 
 See list of geysers, Appendix A. 
 
DISCOVERY. 83 
 
 as were close by the river. Their rations were nearly 
 gone, their lost companion was not found, and the de- 
 sire to tell what they had already seen was greater 
 than the desire to see more. They therefore made 
 haste for home, and on the evening of September 19th 
 encamped where the Firehole and Gibbon Rivers 
 unite to form the Madison. From this point the 
 party journeyed steadily homeward, conversing on 
 the expedition of the past month, and planning 
 how their great discovery might best be brought to 
 the attention of the world. 
 
 The news of this expedition created intense and 
 wide-spread interest throughout the country. Messrs. 
 Washburn, Hedges, Trumbull, and others, prepared 
 numerous descriptive articles for the local Montana 
 papers, many of them among the best that have ever 
 been written upon the Park, and these were repro- 
 duced in every important paper in the land. The 
 Helena Herald, of October 27, 1870, only a month 
 after the return of the party, refers to the extraor- 
 dinary interest aroused by these articles, so unlike 
 the sixty years' indifference which had marked the 
 history of this region. 
 
 These preliminary and hasty reports were followed 
 by more studied efforts. Lieutenant Doane's masterly 
 report was completed December 15, 1870. Besides its 
 intrinsic merit, it has the distinction of being the first 
 official report upon the Upper Yellowstone country. 
 It passed through the customary military channels 
 and was finally sent to Congress, February 24, 1871. 
 Prof. S. F. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution, also 
 presented the information gathered by Lieutenant 
 Doane to the Philosophical Society of Washington 
 during: the winter. 
 
84 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Messrs. Langford and Trumbull prepared entertain- 
 ing magazine articles, which, however, could not be 
 gotten to press until the following May and June. 
 But Mr. Langford in the meantime did effective work 
 from the lecture stand. In Helena, Minneapolis, 
 New York and Washington, he told the story of what 
 he had seen. In Washington, the Hon. James G. 
 Blaine, Speaker of the House, presided at the lecture, 
 and in the audience was Dr. F. V. Hayden, who was 
 destined to play a prominent part in the history of 
 the Yellowstone Park. 
 
 From whatever point of view considered, this expe- 
 dition is one of the most remarkable in our annals. 
 From Helena to the farthest point reached by the 
 party, the route passed over was nearly three hundred 
 miles long. The region of the Upper Yellowstone is 
 perhaps the most difficult of access in the entire 
 country. Even to-day, it is an almost certain place in 
 which to get lost, if one is not thoroughly familiar 
 with wilderness travel and happens to stray away 
 from the beaten path. In 1870, moreover, the danger 
 from hostile Indians was a constant and formidable 
 menace, and the party was more than once reminded 
 of it during the progress of the expedition. But in 
 spite of all these difficulties, the success of the enter- 
 prise was so complete, its incidents were so full of ro- 
 mance, and its results were so far-reaching and im- 
 portant, that it well deserves the wide attention it has 
 received. 
 
 THE JOINT GOVERNMENT EXPEDITION OF 1871. 
 
 The direct result of the expedition of 1870 was to 
 cause the U. S. Geological Survey to change its pro- 
 
DISCOVERY. 85 
 
 gramme for the season of 1871, so as to give attention 
 to the new wonderland ; and also to cause the military 
 authorities to send a well-appointed engineer party to 
 the same locality. These two expeditions, one under 
 Dr. Hayden and the other under Captains Barlow and 
 Heap, of the Engineer Corps of the Army, moved for 
 the most part together, camping near each other, and 
 accompanied hy the same military escort. Particular 
 attention will here be given only to such features of 
 these expeditions as pertain to new discoveries. 
 
 At the very outset of their journey, they branched 
 oft' from the Washburn route at the mouth of the 
 Gardiner River, and by ascending this stream, discov- 
 ered the wonderful formations now known as the 
 Mammoth Hot Springs. From this point, the parties 
 traveled eastward to Tower Creek ; thence over Mt. 
 Arashburn, and past the Canon and Falls, to Sulphur 
 Mountain, Mud Geyser, and the Lake ; thence by a 
 new route across the mountains to the Lower Geyser 
 Basin ; thence to the Upper Basin ; thence east, across 
 the mountains again, past Shoshone Lake to Yellow- 
 stone Lake; thence around the head of this body of 
 water to its outlet ; thence across the country, by sep- 
 arate routes, to the mouth of Soda Butte Creek ; and 
 thence down the East Fork to Baronett's Bridge 
 (which had been built only a few months before), and 
 out of the Park by way of Mammoth Hot Springs. 
 
 The original work done by these parties, besides 
 the discovery of the springs on the Gardiner, was the 
 opening of a route between the Yellowstone River 
 and the Lower Geyser Basin ; the exploration of the 
 Lower Basin ; the mapping of the shore line of Yel- 
 lowstone Lake, by Dr. Hayden ; the mapping of the 
 
86 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 head waters of the Snake River, by Captain Barlow ; 
 and some hasty explorations in the valley of the East 
 Fork of the Yellowstone, now called Lamar River. 
 
 The chief value of these explorations, however, was 
 riot in the line of original discovery, but in the large 
 collection of accurate data concerning the entire re- 
 gion. The photographs were of immense value. De- 
 scription might exaggerate, but the camera told the 
 truth ; and in this case the truth was more remarkable 
 than exaggeration. Unfortunately for Captain Bar- 
 low's collection, the great Chicago fire almost entirely 
 destroyed it. The same cause delayed the appearance 
 of his report until six weeks after the Park Bill was 
 passed. An interesting and complete summary, how- 
 ever, appeared as a supplement in the Chicago Journal 
 for January 13, 1872. The report and collection of 
 photographs and specimens by Dr. Hayden were 
 therefore the principal results of this season's work, 
 and they played a decisive part, m the events of the 
 winter of 1871-2. 
 
 With the close of the expeditions of 1871, the dis- 
 covery of the Yellowstone wonderland was made 
 complete. It remained to see what Congress would 
 do with so unique and valuable a possession. 
 
THE NATIONAL PARK IDEA, ETC. 87 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE NATIONAL PARK IDEA ITS ORIGIN AND REALIZATION. 
 
 The first steamboat to ascend the Missouri River as 
 far as to the mouth of the Yellowstone arrived at that 
 point on the 26th of June, 1832. By a happy coinci- 
 dence it bore the name Yellowstone. "We are indebted 
 for the conception of the National Park idea to a 
 passenger upon this boat who was destined to become 
 one of the most interesting characters America has 
 produced. Every one bears in memory those pictures 
 of Indian life which thrilled their youthful imagina- 
 tion with visions of camping-grounds, council fires, 
 exciting buftalo hunts, and the wild and picturesque 
 costumes of the red men. Very few, however, 
 realize how largely all that is best in these pictures 
 has flowed from a single source. The name of 
 George Catlin is by no means familiar except to the 
 specialist. His work reaches the public eye through 
 so many different channels, and so often without any 
 acknowledgment of its origin, that the origin itself 
 is very generally lost to view. 
 
 To no other individual does the Indian race owe so 
 much for the perpetuity in history and art of its life 
 and customs. From an early age he displayed an en- 
 thusiasm for every thing pertaining to the aboriginal 
 races which can be adequately described only by the 
 word worship. He abandoned the profession for 
 which he had been educated, and enlisted his whole 
 energy in the service of brush and pencil, apparently 
 
88 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 for the single purpose of indulging this passion of his 
 life. He once wrote : 
 
 " Unaided and unadvised, I resolved to use my art 
 and so much of the labors of my future life as might 
 be required in rescuing from oblivion the looks and 
 customs of the vanishing races of native man in Amer- 
 ica, to which I plainly saw they were hastening before 
 the approach and certain progress of civilization."* 
 
 This high purpose Catlin followed throughout the 
 remainder of his life with unwavering fidelity. He 
 visited almost every Indian tribe in North America, 
 gathering sketches and making descriptive notes. He 
 also visited South America, and afterward spent many 
 years in Europe exhibiting his work. The result of 
 his labors was a gallery of more than six hundred 
 pictures, now happily forever safe under the protection 
 of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, wherein 
 he delineated the portraits of famous chiefs and the 
 scenes and customs of Indian life. This work he 
 supplemented with the scarcely less valuable work of 
 his pen, leaving behind him probably the best popular 
 description of the native races that has ever been 
 written. His work is a perennial fountain to which 
 students of Indian themes will ever resort. Valuable 
 as it was considered in his lifetime, each passing year 
 makes it more valuable still. 
 
 Catlin's enthusiasm for every thing pertaining to In- 
 dian life, and the grief with which he beheld the cer- 
 tain fading away of it all before the rapid progress of 
 civilization, suggested to him the idea which was to 
 find partial fulfillment at the time to which our nar- 
 
 * Manners, Customs, etc., of the North American Indians. See 
 Appendix E. 
 
THE NATIONAL. PARK IDEA, ETC. 89 
 
 rativehasnow been carried. In order to preserve, at least 
 on a small scale, the native fauna of America, and a 
 remnant of the Indian races, he proposed that the gov- 
 ernment should set apart, in some suitable locality of 
 the West, a large tract of land, to be preserved for- 
 ever as a " Nation's Park, containing man and beast, 
 in all the wildness and freshness of their nature's 
 beauty." With his natural enthusiasm and vigor, he 
 unfolded his idea, concluding: 
 
 " I would ask no other monument to my memory, 
 nor any other enrollment of my name among the 
 famous dead, than the reputation of having been the 
 founder of such an institution." 
 
 In the report of the late Prof. Joseph Henry to the 
 Board of Regents of the Smithsonian Institution for 
 1871, it is stated that Catlin made a proposition to 
 the government in 1832 " to reserve the country 
 around these [the Yellowstone] geysers as a public 
 park." While it is more than probable, considering 
 the date, and the wide acquaintance of Mr. Catlin 
 with the traders and Indians of the West, that he had 
 heard of the geyser regions, still there is not sufficient 
 evidence attainable to justify our acceptance of the 
 above statement. But in every thing else except the 
 particular locality, and the plan of providing a reser- 
 vation for the Indians, Catlin's idea was the same as 
 that finally adopted by Congress. 
 
 Although the project of creating a vast National 
 Park in the West originated with George Catlin, it is 
 certain that. Congress could never have been brought 
 to act favorably upon it, except under the influence 
 of some extraordinarv motive. That motive was 
 
90 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 supplied when the innumerable unique and marvelous 
 wonders of the Yellowstone were made known. 
 Their preservation at once became a matter of high 
 public duty, which could be accomplished only by re- 
 serving from settlement the region around them. 
 
 Since the Park was created and has to such a 
 marked degree received the approval of the people, 
 numerous claimants have arisen for the honor of hav- 
 ing first suggested the idea. In truth, no special 
 credit for originality should attach to the matter. It 
 was a natural, an unavoidable proposition. To those 
 who first saw these wonders, and were not so ab- 
 sorbed with gold-seeking as to be incapable of appre- 
 ciating their importance, it was clear that, within a 
 few years, they must become objects of universal 
 interest. It was equally clear that the land around 
 them would soon be taken up by private parties, and 
 that the beautiful formations would be carried off* for 
 mercenary purposes ; in short, that the history of 
 Niagara and of the Yosemite would repeat itself in 
 the Yellowstone. To avoid such a calamity only one 
 course was open, and that was for the government to 
 retain control of the entire region. That the neces- 
 sity of such a course should have been set forth inde- 
 pendently by several different parties, as we find it to 
 have been, is therefore not in the least surprising. 
 
 But in as much as the development of the project 
 must have started from some one source, it is of in- 
 terest historically to determine what this source was. 
 We find it to have been the Washburn Expedition of 
 1870.* The subject was discussed by the party at the 
 
 * Mr. Folsom deserves mention in this connection. In the 
 
THE NATIONAL PARK IDEA, ETC. 91 
 
 first camp after leaving the geyser regions near the 
 junction of the Firehole and Gibbon Rivers. The 
 date was September 19, 1870. The members of the 
 party were sitting around the camp-fire after supper, 
 conversing about what they had seen, and picturing 
 to themselves the important pleasure resort which so 
 wonderful a region must soon become. The natural 
 impulse to turn the fruits of discovery to the personal 
 profit of the discoverer made its appearance, and it 
 was suggested that it would be a " profitable specula- 
 tion " to take up land around the various objects of 
 interest. The conversation had not proceeded far on 
 these lines when one of the party, Cornelius Hedges, 
 interposed and said that private ownership of that 
 region, or any part of it, ought never to be counte- 
 nanced; but that it ought to be set apart by the gov- 
 ernment and forever held to the unrestricted use of 
 the people. This higher view of the subject found 
 immediate acceptance with the other members of the 
 party. It was agreed that the project should be at 
 once set afoot and pushed vigorously to a finish. 
 
 As soon as the party reached Helena, a series of ar- 
 ticles appeared in the daily papers of that city describ- 
 ing the late expedition, and in one of these, written 
 by Mr. Hedges and published in the Helena Herald 
 November 9, 1870, occurs what is believed to be the 
 first public reference to the Park project. 
 
 manuscript of his article in the Western Monthly was a reference to 
 the Park idea ; but the publishers cut out a large part of his pa- 
 per, giving only the descriptions of the natural wonders, and this 
 reference was cut out with the rest. Mr. Folsom also suggested 
 the idea to General Washburn, of which fact Mr. N. P. Langford 
 is still a living witness. From Mr. Folsom's suggestion, however,, 
 as from Mr. C'atliti's, no direct result can be traced. 
 
92 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 The next mention of the subject was in Mr. Lang- 
 ford's lecture, delivered, as already related, in Wash- 
 ington, January 19, 1871 ; in New York, January 21, 
 1871; and at a later date in Minneapolis. At each 
 of these places he closed his lecture with a reference 
 to the importance of setting apart this region as a 
 National Park. The New York Tribune of January 
 23, 1871, thus quotes Mr. Langford: 
 
 " This is probably the most remarkable region of 
 natural attractions in the world ; and, while we al- 
 ready have our Niagara and Yosemite, this new field 
 of wonders should be at once withdrawn from occu- 
 pancy, and set apart as a public National Park for 
 the enjoyment of the American people for all time." 
 
 Such is the origin of the idea which has found re- 
 alization in our present Yellowstone Park. The his- 
 tory of the Act of Dedication, by which the Park was 
 created, may be briefly told. The general plan for a 
 vigorous prosecution of the project was arranged in 
 Helena, Montana, mainly by Nathaniel ^. Langford, 
 Cornelius Hedges, and William II. Clagett, who had 
 just been elected delegate to Congress from Montana, 
 and who had already^ himself independently urged the 
 importance of converting this region into a public 
 park. Mr. Langford went to Washington when Con- 
 gress convened, and he and Mr. Clagett drew the 
 Park Bill, except as to description of boundaries, which 
 was furnished by Dr. Hayden. The bill was intro- 
 duced in the House by Mr. Clagett, December 18, 
 1871. Senator Pomeroy, of Kansas, had expressed a 
 desire to perform a like service in the Senate, and ac- 
 cordingly Mr. Clagett, as soon as he had presented the 
 measure to the House, took a copy to the Senate 
 
THE NATIONAL PARK IDEA, ETC. 93 
 
 chamber and gave it to Senator Pomeroy, who imme- 
 diately introduced it. In each House it was referred 
 to the Committee on Public Lands. In the Senate no 
 formal report was prepared. In the House the Hon. 
 Mark H. Dunnell, of Minnesota, chairman of the 
 sub-committee having the bill in charge, addressed a 
 letter under date of January 27, 1872, to the Secretary 
 of the Interior, asking his opinion upon the proposed 
 measure. The Secretary replied, under date of Jan- 
 nary 29th, fully indorsing the project, and submitting 
 a brief report by Dr. Hayden, which forcibly pre- 
 sented all the main features of the case. 
 
 The bill, being thus before Congress, was put 
 through mainly by the efforts of three men, Dr. F. V. 
 Hayden, N. P. Langford, and Delegate William II. 
 Clagett. Dr. Hayden occupied a commanding posi- 
 tion in this work, as representative of the government 
 in the explorations of 1871. He was thoroughly fa- 
 miliar with the subject, and was equipped with an 
 exhaustive collection of photographs and specimens 
 gathered the previous summer. These were placed 
 on exhibition, and were probably seen by all members 
 of Congress. They did a work which no other agency 
 could do, and doubtless convinced every one who saw 
 them that the region where such wonders existed 
 should be carefully preserved to the people forever. 
 Dr. Haj'den gave to the cause the energy of a genuine 
 enthusiasm, and his work that winter will always hold 
 a prominent place in the history of the Park. 
 
 Mr. Langford, as already stated, had publicly advo- 
 cated the measure in the previous winter. He had 
 rendered service of the utmost importance, through 
 his publications in Scnbner's Magazine in the preceding 
 
94 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 May and June. Four hundred copies of these maga- 
 zines were brought and placed upon the desks of mem- 
 bers of Congress on the days when the measure was 
 to be brought to vote. During the entire winter, Mr. 
 Langford devoted much of his time to the promotion 
 of this work. 
 
 The Hon. "William H. Clagett, as delegate from the 
 Territory most directly interested in the passage of the 
 bill, took an active personal part in its advocacy from 
 beginning to end. 
 
 Through the efforts of these three gentlemen, and 
 others less conspicuously identified with the work, 
 this measure received perhaps the most thorough can- 
 vass of any bill that has ever passed Congress. All 
 the members were personally visited and, with few 
 exceptions, won to the cause. The result was a prac- 
 tical unanimity of opinion when the measure came to a 
 vote. This first took place in the Senate, the bill 
 being passed by that body January 30th. It was warmly 
 supported upon its passage by several members and op- 
 posed by one, Senator Cole, of California ; a fact the 
 more remarkable because that Senator had in his own 
 state in the preemption by private parties of the 
 Yosemite wonderland the most convincing example 
 possible of the wisdom of such a measure as that 
 proposed. 
 
 The Senate bill came up from the Speaker's table 
 in the House of Representatives, February 27th. Mr. 
 Dunnell stated that the Committee on Public Lands 
 had instructed him to ask the House to pass the Senate 
 bill. Hon. H. L. Dawes, of Massachusetts, warmly ad- 
 vocated the measure, which was then passed by a de- 
 
THE NATIONAL PARK IDEA, ETC. 95 
 
 cisive vote.* The bill received the President's sig- 
 nature March 1, 1872. 
 
 This subject has been treated somewhat in detail be- 
 cause there has long been a false impression among the 
 people as to who it was that first put forward this im- 
 portant project. To no individual is the public more 
 indebted for the creation of the Park than to Dr. F. V. 
 Hayden, who was long prominently connected with the 
 geological surveys of the government. But he did not, 
 as is generally supposed, originate the idea. His 
 statement in his report for 1878, Vol. II, p. xvii, 
 that, " so far as is now known, the idea of setting 
 apart a large tract about the sources of the Yellow- 
 stone River, as a National Park, originated with the 
 writer," is entirely erroneous; and there is the less 
 excuse for the error in that Dr. Hayden had himself 
 heard the measure advoqated by Mr. Langford in his 
 Washington lecture. In fact, he is known to have 
 said in later years, only a short time before his death, 
 while residing in Philadelphia, that when the project 
 was first talked of among the members of his party, 
 in the summer of 1871, he personally disapproved it 
 because he doubted the practicability of adequately 
 guarding so vast a region ; but that, upon further re- 
 flection, he became converted to the measure and was 
 thereafter its most ardent advocate. 
 
 But it is not so much actual facts, as what men be- 
 lieve these facts to be, that controls human action ; 
 and it is unquestionably true that the above quota- 
 tion correctly expresses the views of the great majority 
 
 * No yea and nay vote was taken in the Senate. The vote in 
 the House was yeas, 115: nays, 65; not voting, 60. 
 
96 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 of members of Congress when the Park measure was. 
 before that body. It is not too much to say that Dr. 
 llayden's influence, as the official representative of the 
 government, was a controlling factor in the passage 
 of that measure. 
 
 Perhaps no act of our national Congress has re- 
 ceived such general approbation at home or such pro- 
 fuse commendation from foreigners as that creating 
 the Yellowstone National Park. ' The lapse of twenty 
 years has only served to confirm and extend its im- 
 portance ; and to give additional force to the senti- 
 ment so well expressed by the Earl of Dunraven 
 when he visited the Park in 1874 : 
 
 "All honor then to the United States for having be- 
 queathed as a free gift to man the beauties and curi- 
 osities of ' Wonderland.' It was an act worthy of a 
 great nation, and she will t have her reward in the 
 praise of the present army of tourists, no less than in 
 the thanks of the generations of them yet to come."* 
 
 It was a notable act, not only on account of the 
 transcendent importance of the territory it was de- 
 signed to protect, but because it was a marked inno- 
 vation in the traditional policy of governments. 
 From time immemorial privileged classes have been 
 protected by law in the withdrawal, for their exclusive 
 enjoyment, of immense tracts for forests, parks and 
 game preserves. But never before was a region of 
 such vast extent as the Yellowstone Park set apart 
 for the use of all the people without distinction of 
 rank or w r ealth. 
 
 The example thus set by the United States has been, 
 
 * Page xi, " The Great Divide." See Appendix E. 
 
THE NATIONAL PARK IDEA, ETC. 97 
 
 widely followed. We have now the Yosemite and 
 Sequoia National Parks, and numerous parks upon 
 the sites of great battlefields. The State of New 
 York has a Niagara Park and contemplates setting 
 apart a portion of the Adirondae region. Minnesota 
 has the Itasca State Park, including the sources of 
 the Mississippi. Canada also has a public park at 
 Niagara, and a large reservation in the midst of the 
 finest scenery of the Rocky Mountains. New Zealand 
 has set a part for public use the region of her hot 
 springs and geysers. Finally the question is being 
 mooted of reserving a vast tract of Africa wherein 
 the large game of that continent may be kept from 
 annihilation. 
 
98 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 WHY SO LONG UNKNOWN? 
 
 There is no more singular fact connected with the 
 history of the Upper Yellowstone country than its 
 long immunity from the presence of white men. 
 From the date when Lewis and Clark first stood at 
 the Three Forks of the Missouri, less than one 
 hundred miles distant from this notable region, sixty- 
 five years elapsed before it was fully known. In the 
 meantime all the surrounding country had been 
 thoroughly explored. Cities, villages, farms and 
 highways had been established throughout the west. 
 A railroad had been built across the continent. But 
 around the head waters of the Yellowstone, the most 
 attractive region of all, it was still terra incognita. 
 A fact so remarkable requires adequate explanation. 
 
 The most difficult feature of the question is the 
 fact that no knowledge of this region appears ever to 
 have been derived from the Indians. Lewis and 
 Clark were told of the Great Falls of the Missouri, 
 and of other notable geographical features, long be- 
 fore they saw them. But of the far more wonderful 
 falls of the Yellowstone, of the great lake in the 
 mountains, or of the marvelous volcanic phenomena 
 in the same neighborhood, they received no hint. 
 There is not a single instance on record, so far as we 
 can discover, except in the meager facts noted in an 
 earlier chapter, where rumors of this strange country 
 appear to have fallen from the lips of Indians. And 
 
WHY SO LONG UNKNOWN ? 99 
 
 yet it was not a region unknown to them, for they 
 had certainly passed back and forth across it for a 
 long period in the past. Their deep silence concern- 
 ing it is therefore no less remarkable than mysterious. 
 
 But how was it that the long period of the fur trade 
 should have passed without disclosing this country ? 
 To this question a more satisfactory answer may be 
 returned. The Upper Yellowstone country was in- 
 deed, as we have seen, frequently visited in these early 
 years. But it was never favorite territory. Old trap- 
 pers say that, although it abounded in beaver, they 
 were not so plentiful as in lower altitudes, while on the 
 streams impregnated with mineral matter, the furs 
 were not so good. The seasons also were unpropi- 
 tious. The winter snows were so deep they came so 
 early and remained so late that little could be done 
 there except from the middle of June to the middle 
 of September. But furs taken during the summer 
 months are of inferior quality, and there was conse- 
 quently no inducement to trap. Moreover it was 
 generally at this time that the gatherings at posts and 
 rendezvous took place, and after these were over but 
 little time remained. Causes like these prevented ex- 
 tensive operations in this region, and doubtless only a 
 comparatively small number of trappers ever saw it. 
 
 Then, the interest of the trader was against the dis- 
 semination of any knowledge which might induce 
 immigration and hasten the certain ruin of his occu- 
 pation. The stress of competition also caused him to 
 remain silent concerning the places he had seen, lest 
 a rival should profit thereby. He took no pains to re- 
 veal the country, and the trappers were too illiterate 
 to do so had they wished. "With the one notable ex- 
 
100 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 ception which has been mentioned in a previous chap- 
 ter, no important press notice of these regions ap- 
 peared during the entire sixty-five years. 
 
 The fur business itself quickly ran its course, and 
 with it disappeared all probability of an early discovery 
 of the geyser regions from this cause. The war with 
 Mexico followed, with the vast cession of territory 
 which it secured. Then came the highly important 
 discovery of gold in California. Already the Mormon 
 emigration had taken place. These great events com- 
 pletely changed the character and purpose of western 
 exploration. The whole west was forgotten excepting 
 only California and the Salt Lake Valley, and the 
 routes leading to them. None of these led close to 
 the geyser regions. On the north were the British 
 fur trader's route, and the Missouri River route, both 
 of which led directly west to the Columbia. To the 
 south was the great thoroughfare along the Platte 
 River and though South Pass, leading to Utah, Cali- 
 fornia and Oregon. Still further south were the long 
 known routes near the border of Old Mexico. It was 
 hopelessly improbable that gold seekers bound to the 
 Pacific Coast along any of these routes would stray 
 into the mountain fastnesses about the sources of the 
 Yellowstone. 
 
 Finally the whole energy of the government in the 
 field of exploration was directed away from this re- 
 gion. In the period from 1804-6, the date of Lewis 
 and Clark's expedition, to 1870, the date of the real 
 discovery of the Park, there were no fewer than one 
 hundred and ten explorations in the country west of 
 the Mississippi, nearly all of which had government 
 authority, and were conducted on a scientific basis. 
 
WHY SO LONG UNKNOWN? 101 
 
 Of these, eighty four were in the territory lately ac- 
 quired from Mexico, and mostly in the far south and 
 west. Nineteen were east of the Bighorn Mountains, 
 five north of the Yellowstone, and only two in the 
 region about the Upper Yellowstone. Of these two 
 expeditions one was that of Lewis and Clark, and was 
 in no wise intended to explore the Upper Yellowstone 
 further than might be necessary to find a good route 
 to the Pacific. This leaves but a single expedition of 
 the whole number, that of Captain Raynolds, which 
 was directed to. this specific territory. How the pur- 
 pose of this expedition was defeated by the heavy 
 snow in the mountains and by the solar eclipse of 
 1860, has been elsewhere related. 
 
 And so it came about that it was the gold-seeker 
 who finally revealed the well-kept secret of the Yel- 
 lowstone. Itself destitute of mineral wealth, this re- 
 gion could not escape the ubiquitous prospector. It 
 was not, indeed, by him that it was publicly pro- 
 claimed to the world. He cared little for any coun- 
 try that was destitute of " color" or " pay." But the 
 hints he dropped put others on the track and opened 
 the door to real discovery. 
 
 This fact of long delay in the discovery of the Upper 
 Yellowstone is the most important in its history. Had 
 it been known at an earlier date, its fate would have 
 been deplorably different. The period of the fur 
 traders was too early for the interest of the people to 
 demand, or the power of the government to enforce, 
 its protection. If Captain Raynolds had discovered 
 it, all its most valuable tracts would have been pre- 
 empted long before the government would have been 
 :able to give it attention. Fortunately, the discovery 
 
102 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 was delayed until there was a considerable popula- 
 tion in the country near by, and the government waa 
 prepared actively to consider the matter. Before 
 settlers could establish a permanent foothold, the 
 Park was created, and all the vexatious obstacles, 
 which might otherwise have defeated the project,, 
 were avoided. 
 
LATER EXPLORATIONS. 103 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 LATER EXPLORATIONS. 
 
 As soon as the remarkable character of the country 
 about the sources of the Yellowstone became gen- 
 erally known, there was a rush of explorers to its 
 borders. Every expedition that could possibly ex- 
 tend the field of its labors in that direction did so, 
 and there was scarcely a summer during the next 
 twent}* years that the Park was not the scene of some 
 official exploration or visit. 
 
 By far the most important of these were the various 
 expeditions under the United States Geological Sur- 
 vey. Dr. Hayden was again in the country with two 
 parties in 1872, and very widely extended the range 
 of observations of the previous year. In 1878, survey 
 parties again entered the Park and resumed work 
 there on a much more minute and extensive scale. 
 The result of that year's explorations appeared in 
 1883 in the form of an elaborate report by Dr. Hay- 
 den and his co-workers, which entered with much 
 detail into the more important subjects of scientific 
 interest. It was embellished with a great number of 
 engravings and colored plates, and with an exhaustive 
 series of topographical and geological maps. The 
 work was again taken up in 1883, and was continued 
 for several years. All questions of scientific import- 
 ance were investigated more thoroughly than ever 
 before, and many valuable official reports and mono- 
 
104 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 graphs, together with a superb map, have been the 
 result. 
 
 In 1872, General John Gibbon, U. S. A., with a 
 considerable party, made a tour of the Park, passing 
 by the usual route from Mammoth Hot Springs via 
 Mt. Washburn, the Grand Canon, and the Lake, to 
 the Firehole Geyser Basins. On his way home he at- 
 tempted to ascend the north Fork of the Madison, 
 following an old trail ; but he abandoned the attempt 
 after going a few miles. His name, which was given 
 to the river, has also attached to many other features 
 along that valley. 
 
 In 1873, Captain William A. Jones, of the Corps of 
 Engineers, passed through the Park as part of a more 
 extended reconnaissance. He was the first to carry a 
 party through the "impassable barrier" of the Absa- 
 roka Range. Jones Creek, just east of the northern 
 portion of the Yellowstone Lake, shows where the 
 party entered the Park. From the Lake the expedi- 
 tion passed down the east bank of the river to the 
 valley of Junction Butte ; thence west to Mammoth 
 Hot Springs ; thence back over the usual trail via 
 Tower Creek, Mt. Washburn, the Grand Cafion and 
 Mud Geyser, to the Lower Geyser Basin ; thence via 
 the Upper Basin to the west shore of the Yellowstone 
 Lake ; thence to the Upper Yellowstone River ; thence 
 through Two-Ocean Pass and Two-Gwo-Tee Pass to 
 the valley of Wind River. The chief results of this 
 expedition, in the line of original discovery, were the 
 passage of the Absaroka Range, the verification of 
 the traditional " Two-Ocean Water," between Atlantic 
 and Pacific Creeks, in Two-Ocean Pass, and the dis- 
 
LATER EXPLORATIONS. 105 
 
 covery of the extremely easy pass (Two-Gwo-Tee*) 
 over the Continental Divide, between the Snake and 
 Wind Rivers. Prof. Theodore B. Comstock accom- 
 panied the expedition as geologist. A valuable report 
 of the reconnaissance appeared in 1875.f 
 
 In 1875, Captain William Ludlow, of the Corps of 
 Engineers, made a reconnaissance from Carroll, Mon- 
 tana, on the Missouri River, to the Yellowstone Park 
 and return. In the Park he followed the previously 
 traveled routes and developed little in the line of orig- 
 inal discovery. He succeeded, however, in obtaining 
 a very accurate measurement of the height of the 
 Yellowstone Falls, and his report f forms one of the 
 ablest brief descriptions of the Park extant. Among 
 his civil assistants was George Bird Grinnell, now 
 widely known as the editor of Forest and Stream, 
 and as one of the most steadfast and watchful 
 guardians the Park has ever had. 
 
 During the same season a distinguished party, con- 
 sisting of the Secretary of War, Gen. W. W. Belknap, 
 and several prominent officers and civilians, with Lieu- 
 tenant G. C. Doane, of National Park fame, as guide, 
 made a complete tour of the Park. An exceedingly 
 interesting narrative f of the trip was written by Gen. 
 W". E. Strong, who was a member of the party. 
 
 In 1877, Gen. W. T. Sherman and staff' made a tour 
 of the Park. His letters on the subject to the Secre- 
 tary of War, and the official report prepared by Gen. 
 O. M. Poe of his staff', form a valuable contribution to 
 the literature of the Park.f 
 
 * So named by Captain Jones for one of his Indian guides, 
 t See Appendix E. 
 
106 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 In the same year Gen. O. 0. Howard crossed the 
 reservation in pursuit of the Nez Perces Indians. 
 
 In 1880, the Hon. Carl Schurz, Secretary of the In- 
 terior, accompanied by Gen. Crook with a large num- 
 ber of officers and soldiers, and an immense pack 
 train, entered the Park from the valley of Henry Fork 
 and made an extended tour. 
 
 In 1881, Captain W. S. Stanton, of the Corps of En- 
 gineers, made a reconnaissance through the Park, enter- 
 ing by the way of SodaButte Creek, and passing out by 
 the Madison Valley. The most important result of his 
 work in the Park was a more accurate table of distances 
 over some of the routes than had previously been in use. 
 
 In July and August of this year, the Hon. John 
 W. Hoyt, Governor of Wyoming, with a military es- 
 cort under command of Major Julius W. Mason, TJ. S. 
 A., made an extended reconnaissance to discover a prac- 
 ticable wagon route, to the Yellowstone Park from the 
 south-east. He entered the Park by way of the Up- 
 per Yellowstone, passed through it byway of Yellow- 
 stone and Shoshone Lakes, the Pirehole Geyser Basins, 
 the Grand Canon, the lower end of Yellowstone Lake, 
 and left it along the route by which Captain Jones 
 had entered in 1873. 
 
 In the years 1881 and 1882, General Sheridan, with 
 parties of considerable size, twice crossed the Park 
 and visited its most important points. His expedi- 
 tions were of great value to the Park from the forci- 
 ble warning which he gave to the public concerning 
 the demoralized condition of its civil administration. 
 
 The most elaborate expedition that ever passed 
 through this region took place in August, 1883.* It 
 
 * The vear 1883 seems to have been the banner year for dis- 
 
LATER EXPLORATIONS. 107 
 
 included among its members the President of the 
 United States, the Secretary of War, the Lieutenant- 
 General of the Army, a United States Senator, and 
 several other distinguished officers and civilians. The 
 interesting part of the journey lay between Fort 
 Washakie, Wyo., and the Northern Pacific Railroad 
 at Cinnabar, Mont. The party traveled entirely on 
 horseback, accompanied by one of the most complete 
 pack trains ever organized in this or any other coun- 
 try, and escorted by a full troop of cavalry. Couriers 
 were stationed every twenty miles with fresh relays, 
 and by this means communication was daily had with 
 the outside world. The whole distance traveled was 
 350 miles, through some of the wildest, most rugged, 
 and least settled portions of the west. No accident 
 or drawback occurred to mar the pleasure of the ex- 
 pedition. The great pastime en route was trout fish- 
 ing, in which the President and Senator Vest were 
 acknowledged leaders. The phenomenal " catches " 
 of these distinguished sportsmen might pass into his- 
 tory as typical " fish stories," were they not vouched 
 for by the sober record of official dispatches, and the 
 unerring evidence of photographer Haynes' camera. 
 
 tinguished visitors to the Pr.rk. The list of arrivals for that year 
 includes the President of the United States and a member of his 
 cabinet; the Chief-Justice and an Associate Justice of the United 
 States Supreme Court; the General, Lieutenant-General, and a 
 large number of other distinguished officers of the army ; six 
 United States Senators; one Territorial Governor; a prominent 
 railroad president; the Ministers from Great Britain and Ger- 
 many; the President of the Admiralty Division of the High 
 Court of Justice, England ; three members of Parliament ; and a 
 considerable number of other eminent personages, both from this 
 country and abroad. 
 
108 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 The elaborate equipment of this expedition, the emi- 
 nent character of its personnel, and the evident re- 
 sponsibility resting upon those who conducted it, at- 
 tracted a great deal of attention at the time, and gave 
 it a prominent place in the annals of Western W} T O- 
 ming. 
 
 To these various expeditions must be added the ex- 
 tensive, though desultory, explorations of P. W. Nor- 
 ris during the five years that he was Superintendent 
 of the Park. 
 
 It has thus come about that the Yellowstone Na- 
 tional Park, though remote, inaccessible, and of great 
 extent, is about the most thoroughly explored section 
 of the United States. Within the territory bounded 
 by the 44th and 45th parallels of latitude, and the 
 110th and lllth meridians of longitude, there are 
 nearly four hundred geographical names. The names 
 of hot springs and geysers would probably double the 
 number. To appreciate this fact, it must be remem- 
 bered that there are no settlements in the Park, and 
 that counties, townships, cities, and villages, which on 
 ordinary maps form so large a proportion of the 
 names, are here entirely absent. That region has in- 
 deed been a paradise for the explorer, the topographer, 
 and the geologist ; and its splendid opportunities have 
 not gone unimproved. 
 
 Although not strictly in the line of original ex- 
 ploration, the few winter journeys that have been made 
 through the Park may nevertheless most appropriately 
 be considered in this place, reserving for a later chap- 
 ter a description of the difficult and hazardous nature 
 of these undertakings. The first of these expeditions 
 was in 1887, under the auspices of the New York 
 
 * See Appendix E "A Journey through the Y. N. P., etc." 
 
LATER EXPLORATIONS. 109 
 
 World, and was led by Frederick Sehwatka, the Arc- 
 tic explorer. It was organized on a grand scale, 
 " with Arctic ' sleeping bags,' the Norwegian ' ski,' 
 the Canadian ' web ' snow shoe, and toboggans to 
 carry supplies, photographic equipment, and astro- 
 nomical instruments." But the elaborate outfit proved 
 fatal to the enterprise, which quickly resulted in a 
 magnificent failure. The conditions were different 
 from those in Arctic travel, and the recent fall of 
 light snow negatived any attempt to move toboggans 
 through it successfully. The party consumed three 
 days in getting to Morris, a distance of twenty miles. 
 Here Lieutenant Sehwatka became ill and the expe- 
 dition was abandoned. 
 
 But Mr. F. J. Haynes, the well known Park photog- 
 rapher, who had accompanied the party, resolved to 
 continue the tour in order to secure a collection of 
 winter views. Three other members of the party joined 
 him. They abandoned the toboggan and strapped the 
 baggage on their backs. They went by way of the 
 usual route to the Upper Geyser Basin, where they 
 were snow-bound for five days in a fearful blizzard. 
 Thence they went to the Grand Canon, and from 
 that point over Mount "Washburn to Yancey's. On 
 this part of the trip the party nearly lost their lives, 
 wandering for three days in a blinding storm with- 
 out food or shelter. The circuit covered about two 
 hundred miles, and the temperature ranged from ten 
 to fifty-two degrees below zero during the entire trip 
 of twenty-nine days. 
 
 In March, 1894, two very important winter expedi- 
 tions were made in the Park. Mr. F. J. Haynes went 
 through for the purpose of extending his line of win- 
 
110 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 ter views, and also of photographing the Park game. 
 Accompanying him was Felix Burgess, government 
 scout. 
 
 Following this party by a few days, and joining it 
 at the Grand Canon, came another party with a staff' 
 correspondent of Forest and Stream This gentleman, 
 Mr. E. Hough, of Chicago, 111., made the entire round 
 of the Park, studying its game and other similar mat- 
 ters.* His narrative, published in Forest and Stream, 
 forms one of the most entertaining and valuable con- 
 tributions yet made to the literature of the Park. 
 These two expeditions played an important part in se- 
 curing the enactment of the National Park Protective 
 Act, in May, 1894. 
 
 * See Appendix E, " Yellowstone Park Game Exploration." 
 
AN INDIAN CAMPAIGN, ETC. Ill 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 AN INDIAN CAMPAIGN THROUGH THE YELLOWSTONE PARK. 
 
 Iii a letter dated at Fort Ellis, Montana Territory, 
 August 19, 1877, addressed to the Hon. George W. 
 McCreary, Secretary of "War, the writer, General W". 
 T. Sherman, then on a tour of inspection of the 
 " country north of the Union Pacific Railroad," tells 
 of his recent visit to the Yellowstone National Park. 
 This was about the period when our Indian wars in 
 the Far West were at their height. Only a year had 
 elapsed since the Ouster massacre. It was the crisis 
 of the Indian military question. There was at that 
 time scarcely a spot in the whole Missouri and Yel- 
 lowstone Valleys that was safe from Indian depreda- 
 tions. Naturally, therefore, General Sherman had his 
 mind upon this subject when his small party, com- 
 paratively unprotected, were traveling through the 
 wilds of the National Park. But he saw nothing 
 there to excite his fears, and in the letter above re- 
 ferred to, says : u We saw no signs of Indians and 
 felt at no moment more sense of danger than we do 
 here." It will presently be seen how delusive was 
 this fancied security, and by how narrow a margin it 
 escaped resulting disastrously to the General's party. 
 
 The tour from Fort Ellis to the Park and return 
 had taken from August 4th to August 18th. On the 
 latter date, the party met an ingoing company of 
 tourists from Helena composed of the following per- 
 sons : A. J. Weikert, Richard Dietrich, Frederic 
 
112 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Pfister, Joseph Roberts, Charles Kenck, Jack Stewart, 
 August Foller, Leslie Wilke, L. Duncan, and Ben- 
 jamin Stone (colored cook). The party followed the 
 usual route to the Grand Canon and Falls of the Yel- 
 lowstone, where they were in camp August 24th. 
 
 As they were entering the territory of the Park, 
 another party was on the point of leaving it after a 
 tour of about two weeks. This party was composed 
 of the following persons, most of whom were from 
 Radersburg, Montana : George F. Cowan and wife, 
 Frank and Ida Carpenter, brother and sister of Mrs. 
 Cowan, Charles Mann, William Dingee, Albert Old- 
 ham, A. J. Arnold, and a Mr. Meyers. They had 
 formed a permanent camp in the Lower Geyser Basin, 
 where the Fountain Hotel now stands, and from that 
 point had made daily short excursions to the various 
 localities of interest. They all visited the geyser 
 basins and some of the party crossed to the Lake and 
 Canon of the Yellowstone. They must have been 
 seen by Sherman's party, for they were directly in his 
 route. The party had completed their tour of the 
 Park, August 23d, and had arranged to set out for 
 home early on the following morning. 
 
 In order to understand the unfortunate turn which 
 the affairs of these two tourist parties were about to 
 take, it will be necessary to explain, in briefest out- 
 line, the cause and previous incidents of one of the 
 most remarkable Indian campaigns in our history. 
 
 From the time of Lewis arid Clark, the Nez Perce 
 Indians had dwelt in what are now the States of Ore- 
 gon, Washington, and Idaho. Their territory ex- 
 tended from the Salmon River on the south to the 
 Pelouse River on the north, and from the Bitter Root 
 
AN INDIAN CAMPAIGN, ETC. 113 
 
 Mountains westward into the present States of Idaho 
 and Washington. In 1855, they ceded to the United 
 States a part of their territory, and the principal chiefs 
 located in the several portions of the remainder. In 
 1860, gold was discovered on the reservation and the 
 usual gold rush followed. The danger of a conflict 
 with the Indians became so great that a temporary 
 arrangement, pending action by the government, was 
 made between them and their Indian agent, opening 
 a portion of the reservation " to the whites in common 
 with the Indians for mining purposes." 
 
 But the settlers did not stop with these concessions. 
 In defiance of law, they built the town* of Lewiston 
 on the reservation, and gave other proofs of their pro- 
 ject for permanent occupancy. It soon became nec- 
 essary for the government to take some decisive step, 
 and this was accomplished in 1863 by a new treaty in 
 which the Indians relinquished three of their most 
 important valleys, the Wallowa, the Alpowai, and the 
 Salmon River. 
 
 The treaty, however, was far from receiving the gen- 
 eral assent of all the chiefs. A formidable faction, 
 headed by Chiefs Joseph, Looking Glass, Big Thunder, 
 White Bird, and others, refused to be bound by it, and 
 were henceforth referred to in official reports as the 
 " Non-treaty Nez Perces." For a time the authorities 
 made no effort to enforce the new treaty, and the In- 
 dians were "tacitly permitted to roam" over their 
 ancient hunting-grounds. 
 
 This condition of affairs continued for thirteen 
 years \vith various efforts in the meantime to arrive 
 at some more satisfactory settlement. Finally, in 1876, 
 
114 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 a civil and military commission was appointed to visit 
 the Nez Perce Indians, to examine into their griev- 
 ances, and to determine what measures were necessary 
 for a permanent settlement of the question. The re- 
 port* of this Commission is interesting, both for the 
 facts it relates in regard to the tribal life and charac- 
 teristics of the Nez Perce Indians, and for the heroic 
 treatment of the long-standing troubles which it re- 
 commends. 
 
 These Indians were altogether a peculiar people. 
 The early missionaries had converted them to the 
 Christian faith, and, whether from that cause, or from 
 natural proclivity, they were among the most religious 
 of our Indian tribes. There is a general concensus of 
 authorities that, despite certain grave defects of char- 
 acter, they were, mentally and morally, far above the 
 average Indian. In later times, approaching the pe- 
 riod covered by this sketch, they fell under the influ- 
 ence of a class of mystics called " dreamers," who 
 taught a doctrine of land ownership which was the 
 immediate cause of all their subsequent troubles. 
 This doctrine was, in substance, that "the 'Creative 
 Power,' when he made the earth, made no marks, no 
 lines of division or separation, upon it, and that it 
 should be allowed to remain as it is;" that it "should 
 not be disturbed by man, and that any cultivation of 
 the soil, or other improvements, any voluntary sub- 
 mission to the control of government," were incom- 
 patible with the true purpose for \vhich it was made. 
 At bottom it was the broad principle that no man or 
 aggregation of men can take from other men the right 
 to enjoy what nature has made free for all. Why the 
 
 *See Report of Secretary of the Interior, 1877, part 1, p. 607. 
 See also Appendix E, " Nez Perce Indians," etc. 
 
AX INDIAN CAMPAIGN, ETC. 115 
 
 Commission should characterize this doctrine as "per- 
 nicious," unless a thing is pernicious whenever it is 
 impracticable, is not easy to understand. From the 
 point of view of the nomadic life of the redmen, it is 
 hard to conceive a theory of land tenure, or the want 
 of it, more nearly approaching a perfect ideal. 
 
 Unfortunately for such a doctrine, at the point at 
 which American history had now arrived, it was no 
 longer possible of realization ; and any attempt to put 
 it in force could not result otherwise than in failure. 
 So it was with Joseph and his followers. The gov- 
 ernment for a long time overlooked their infractions 
 of the Treaty of 1863, but finally was compelled to 
 interfere. The Commission recommended that the 
 existing treaty be enforced, by military aid if neces- 
 sary. The recommendation was approved, and to 
 General 0. O. Howard fell the task -of putting the 
 Indians on their proper reservation. 
 
 For a time it seemed that they would be induced to 
 submit without the employment of active force ; but 
 just as success was apparently assured, the Indians 
 murdered some twenty white men, women, and chil- 
 dren, in revenge for one of their number killed the 
 previous year. Peaceful negotiations came at once to 
 an end, and the military authorities assumed control 
 of the situation. This was June 13, 1877. 
 
 Between that date and July 12th, three battles 
 were fought, in which both sides suffered severely, 
 and the Indians displayed extraordinary fighting 
 ability. They then left their country as it proved, 
 not to return and set out across the mountains to 
 their oft-visited "buffalo country," in the Judith Ba- 
 sin, far to the eastward of the Upper Missouri. 
 
116 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 But their route lay too close to the military post of 
 Fort Missoula and to the towns in the more thickly 
 settled portions of Montana. They bore oft" to the 
 southward, through a country with whose people 
 they were well acquainted, and with whom they had 
 often traded in previous excursions to the buffalo 
 country. Here they found friends and obtained the 
 supplies they needed. 
 
 In the meantime, General Gibbon, with a small 
 force, which he had gathered from Forts Benton, 
 Shaw, and Missoula, and from volunteers among 
 Montana citizens, was in close pursuit. He overtook 
 the Indians on the Big Hole River, in South-western 
 Montana, where a desperate battle ensued, in which 
 his own force was severely handled. 
 
 The Indians then passed south into Idaho, with 
 Howard in pursuit, swung around to the east, and re- 
 crossed into Montana by way of Henry Lake. Near 
 Camas Creek, they had an engagement with the pur- 
 suing troops. 
 
 Howard arrived at Henry Lake at 8 A. M., August 
 23d, just as the Indians had left. The long marches 
 compelled him to halt at this point for three or four 
 days, to rest his men and replenish his supplies. This 
 gave the Indians a considerable start, of which, how- 
 ever, they took only a leisurely advantage. Their 
 route lay across the Yellowstone Park, which they en- 
 tered by Targhee Pass, and on the night of August 
 23d they encamped on the Firehole River, in the 
 Yellowstone National Park, a short distance from 
 where we left the Radersburg tourists, and less than 
 twenty miles from the camp of the Helena party. 
 The interest of the campaign for the next week cen- 
 
AN INDIAN CAMPAIGN, ETC. 117 
 
 ters chiefly upon the fortunes of these unlucky excur- 
 sionists. 
 
 Before sunrise on the morning of August 24th, 
 Arnold and Dingee, who had got up to prepare the 
 camp fire, saw Indians approaching. The rest of the 
 party were promptly aroused. The Indians at first 
 professed to be friendly and little alarm was felt ; but 
 the party nevertheless had no appetite for breakfast, 
 and immediately broke camp and started down the 
 river toward home. But they were soon surrounded 
 by the increasing number of Indians, who began to 
 give indications that trouble was at hand. They were 
 told that it would be unsafe to proceed down stream 
 further, that the only course was to turn back with the 
 Indians. This they were soon forced to do. After 
 traveling some two miles up Xez Perce Creek, it be- 
 came impossible to take the wagons further. The 
 horses were unhitched and the ladies mounted upon 
 them, and in this manner the march was resumed. At 
 this point Mr. Frank Carpenter was induced to hasten 
 to the front in search of Chief Looking Glass to see if 
 he could not secure the party's release ; but his sus- 
 picions becoming soon aroused, he refused to go 
 further, and returned. In fact, it turned out later 
 that Looking Glass was not in front at the time and 
 that the pretense that he was, was a mere subterfuge 
 to aid in scattering the party. The captives were 
 now taken up the East Fork of the Firehole (Xez 
 Perce Creek) to the foot of Mary Mountain, where 
 a consultation with the chiefs was had. Mr. Cowan 
 was spokesman for the whites, and Poker Joe, who 
 knew English well, for the Indians. The party were 
 
118 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 here set at liberty, their horses, guns and ammunition 
 were taken, they were given other horses instead, and, 
 just as the Indians were about to resume their march, 
 they were told to depart by the back trail. After 
 proceeding some three-fourths of a mile, they were 
 overtaken by some seventy-five young and war-painted 
 bucks, and were compelled to countermarch. It was 
 about this time that two of the party were given a hint 
 by a friendly Indian and made their escape in the brush. 
 The rest continued their way back to the point where 
 they had been liberated and some distance beyond in 
 the direction of Mary Lake. Just as they reached 
 the first sharp ascent of the mountain about 2 p. M., 
 in the midst of dense timber, the attack began. At 
 the first fire Cowan was struck in the thigh and fell 
 from his horse. His wife instantly rushed to his side, 
 threw her arms around his neck, and strenuously re- 
 sisted the Indians in their further attempts to kill 
 him. But they partially pulled her away and an 
 Indian shot Cowan again in the head. He was then 
 left for dead. 
 
 In the meantime, Carpenter had had a narrow 
 escape. A young Indian had drawn his revolver 
 upon him, when Carpenter, remembering his religion, 
 quickly made a sign of the cross. He was then hid 
 by the Indians in a clump of underbrush until the 
 trouble was over, and was assured that the ladies 
 should not be harmed.* 
 
 * The Indians denied that Carpenter was saved because of 
 making a sign of the cross although they remembered his making 
 it. The chiefs had strictly enjoined their followers that the 
 whites were not to be injured. When the few lawless bucks 
 
AN INDIAN CAMPAIGN, ETC. 119 
 
 The other members of the party scattered promptly 
 when the firing began. All of them escaped to the 
 brush, but one of them was wounded in the at- 
 tempt, and fell behind a log where he lay concealed 
 until the Indians had gone. 
 
 This left Carpenter and his two sisters captive. 
 They were taken along with the Indians, each being 
 lashed to a pony behind an Indian. The captives 
 became separated and did not see each other until ten 
 o'clock that night at the Indian camp near Mary 
 Lake. The next day, August 25th, the march was 
 resumed, and the party were taken across the Yellow- 
 stone at the ford near Mud Geyser. Here Carpenter's 
 fate was put to a vote of the chiefs and by a majority 
 of one he was given his life. In the afternoon, the 
 ladies were given each a pony, and, with Carpenter, 
 were escorted by Poker Joe back across the river. 
 They were then taken a mile down stream and told 
 to depart instructions which they obeyed with no 
 want of alacrity. 
 
 Strange to say none of the party had been killed. 
 Cowan, who had been twice shot, and stoned also by 
 the Indians, when they saw lingering evidences of 
 life, nevertheless survived. About five o'clock in the 
 afternoon he recovered consciousness, and drew him- 
 self up by the bow of a tree, when lo ! close behind him 
 was another Indian-with his rifle ready to fire. He 
 tried to get away, but the Indian fired and the ball 
 passed through his left hip. He now gave up hope 
 
 began the attack, some of the other Indians interferred. Poker 
 Joe was sent back by the chiefs for the same purpose when they 
 surmised what was going on. He succeeded in preventing further 
 trouble, and Carpenter's escape was due to this cause. 
 
120 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 as he fell again to the ground. The Indian, however, 
 did not come up. After waiting until every one had 
 apparently gone, Cowan, crawled along till about mid- 
 night, seeking a place of greater, safety, and then 
 waited for day. At daybreak he commenced crawling 
 back toward the old camp, a distance of eight or ten 
 miles. He passed the abandoned wagons on the way, 
 where he found a dog belonging to the party. It took 
 him four days to reach the old camp, but once there 
 he found matches, coffee, and some other articles 
 which helped him to keep alive. The day after his 
 arrival, he was picked up by Howard's scouts. 
 
 Arnold, who had escaped to the brush before Cowan 
 was shot, and had wandered for four days until finally 
 picked up by Howard's command near Henry Lake, 
 came along with the troops on the 29th, and remained 
 with Cowan until their arrival in Bozeman. They 
 were taken by Howard to near Baronett's Bridge, and 
 then sent down the river. 
 
 Already Carpenter and his sisters had made their 
 way down the river, passing close to the camp of the 
 other party of tourists near the Falls whom they 
 might have saved had they chanced to see them 
 and were met by a party of soldiers under Lieuten- 
 ant Schofield twelve miles from Mammoth Hot Springs. 
 They were escorted to the springs, whence they went 
 to Bottler's ranch, some distance below the Park, and 
 a short time afterward returned to Eadersburg. It 
 was about two weeks before Mrs. Cowan learned that 
 her husband was still alive. After all these miraculous 
 escapes, it is interesting to know that Mr. Cowan and 
 his wife survived to make another tour of the Park a 
 few years later under better conditions. 
 
AN INDIAN CAMPAIGN, ETC. 121 
 
 It will not be necessary to follow in detail the for- 
 tunes of the rest of the party. They all escaped, 
 though with much suffering, in their wanderings 
 through the wilderness. 
 
 When the captive members of the party were being 
 marched down the Yellowstone slope east of Mary 
 Lake, they heard considerable firing in the timber to 
 their right. This is thought to have been an attack 
 upon two prospectors who were known to have been 
 in the neighborhood at the time, and who have never 
 since been heard of. 
 
 The party of Helena tourists in camp near the Falls 
 of the Yellowstone on the night of August 24th, were 
 less fortunate than the Radersburg party. On the 
 morning of the 25th, they started up the river toward 
 the Mud Geyser. They had gone about a mile be- 
 yond Sulphur Mountain when they discovered moving 
 bodies of men, part of whom were fording the river. 
 Careful scrutiny showed them to be Indians, and the 
 party rightly divined that they must be the hostile Nez 
 Perces. They hastily retraced their steps and* went 
 into camp in the timber near the forks of Otter Creek, 
 about a mile and a half above the Upper Falls of the 
 Yellowstone. Here they remained undisturbed all 
 day and the following night. On the morning of the 
 26th, Weikert and Wilkie set out to scout the country. 
 They went as far as Sulphur Mountain, and finding 
 every thing clear, started back to camp to report. 
 When entering the timber just north of Alum Creek, 
 they suddenly met a band of Indians who promptly 
 opened fire on them. A flight and pursuit of consid- 
 erable duration ended in the escape of both men ; but 
 
122 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 not until Weikert had been wounded. This party of 
 Indians had just attacked and dispersed the group in 
 camp. They had stolen upon the camp as. dinner 
 was being prepared, and a volley of musketry was the 
 first warning the tourists had of their presence. There 
 w r as instant tflight and most of the party managed to 
 get away. But Kenck was soon overtaken and killed ; 
 and Stewart after being severely wounded, prevailed 
 on the Indians to spare his life. 
 
 Weikert and Wilkie, who had hastened back to. 
 camp after their own encounter, found every thing in 
 confusion, and all the party gone. They soon fell in 
 with several of them, and together they set out for 
 Mammoth Hot Springs. 
 
 And now began another series of wanderings through 
 the trackless wilderness of the Park. Two of the 
 party made their way by way of the Madison River, 
 where they were given food by soldiers, to Virginia 
 City and thence to Helena. The rest of the survivors 
 after much hardship reached Mammoth Hot Springs, 
 and spon after left the Park with the exception of 
 Weikert, Dietrich, the colored cook, Stone, and a man 
 named Stoner. 
 
 On August 31st, Weikert and one McCartney, owner 
 of the first hotel ever built in the Park, went to the 
 Falls of the Yellowstone in order if possible to learn 
 the fate of the missing members of the party. Shortly 
 after their departure from the Springs a band of 
 Indians prowled across the country from the Yellow- 
 stone to the Gardiner and went down the latter stream 
 as far as Henderson's Ranch near the present town of 
 Cinnabar. After a brief skirmish and a general pillage 
 here, they went back to Mammoth Hot Springs. Stoner 
 
AN INDIAN CAMPAIGN, ETC. 123 
 
 and the colored cook fled precipitately, but Dietrich, 
 believing the Indians to be friendly scouts, remained 
 behind and was shot dead in the door of the hotel. 
 Stone made a lucky escape by climbing a tree, and 
 his subsequent ludicrous recital of his experience be- 
 came a standing jest among the inhabitants of the 
 Yellowstone. 
 
 Weikert and McCartney went back to the old camp 
 on Otter Creek, where they buried Kenck's remains 
 and gathered up whatever of value the Indians had 
 left. On their way back, when on the head waters of 
 Black Tail Deer Creek, they met the band of Indians 
 who had just slain Dietrich at Mammoth Hot Springs. 
 A lively skirmish ensued, in which Weikert lost 
 his horse. The two men succeeded in finding refuge 
 in some neighboring brushwood. 
 
 Just as the Indians went into camp on the night of 
 August 23d, their first day in the Park, they captured 
 one Shively who was on his way to Montana from the 
 Black Hills. As Shively professed to know the coun- 
 try, which the Xez Perces had never seen before, they 
 impressed him into their service as guide. He was 
 with them thirteen clays and claims to have served 
 them faithfully, as well as to have received fair treat- 
 ment from them. At any rate he won their confidence 
 by his behavior, and was watched so carelessly that he 
 escaped one dark night just as the Indians were cross- 
 ing the north-east boundary of the Park. 
 
 As soon as the command at Henry Lake had be- 
 come recuperated, the pursuit was vigorously resumed. 
 Howard followed in the track of the Indians as far as 
 to the ford of the Yellowstone ; but instead of cross- 
 ing at this point, he descended the river by the left 
 
124 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 bank to the site of Baronett's celebrated first bridge 
 over the Yellowstone. From the Lower Geyser Basin 
 to this bridge a road had to be opened for the wagons. 
 It was a prodigious undertaking, but was performed 
 with astonishing rapidity under the direction of Capt. 
 W. F. Spurgin, Twenty -first Infantry. The bridge 
 was found partially destroyed by the Indians and had 
 to be repaired, after which the line of march was 
 continued up the Lamar and Soda Butte Valleys, and 
 across the divide to the valley of Clark's Fork. 
 
 The authorities had been widely warned of the 
 probable route of the Indians and were lying in wait 
 to intercept them. Gen. Sturgis expected to do this 
 as they emerged from the Absaroka Mountains; 
 but unfortunately he stationed himself in the wrong 
 pass and left the one which the Indians took un- 
 guarded. By this loss of time he fell in behind both 
 the Indians and Howard, who was now in close pur- 
 suit. The Indians crossed the Yellowstone September 
 12th. Here Sturgis overtook them with a company 
 of cavalry and a slight conflict ensued. The Indians 
 then struck north, apparently for the British line. 
 On September 23d they crossed the Missouri at Cow 
 Island and resumed their march north. But they 
 were intercepted by Geii. Miles in the Bear Paw 
 Mountains and a severe fight followed, at the northern 
 base of the range on Snake Creek, less than thirty 
 miles from the boundary. The Indians were utterly 
 defeated and Looking Glass was killed. Most of the 
 survivors surrendered unconditionally and the rest 
 escaped across the line. This was on October 5, 
 1877. 
 
 Since the first outbreak, June 13th, three months and 
 
AN INDIAN CAMPAIGN, ETC. 125 
 
 twenty-two days had elapsed. The flight and pursuit 
 had extended over 1,500 miles. There had been no 
 fewer than fifteen engagements. The whites had lost 
 6 officers and 121 soldiers and citizens killed, and 13 
 officers and 127 soldiers and citizens wounded. A 
 large part of the Indian losses could never be as- 
 certained, but their known losses were 151 killed, 88 
 wounded and 489 captured. 
 
 This celebrated campaign is well intended to elicit 
 the fullest sympathy for the unfortunate Nez Perces. 
 A vast deal of sentiment has been wasted upon the 
 cause of the red man. Opinions have ranged from 
 the extreme views of Catlin, who could see no wrong 
 in the Indian, to those of the rabid frontiersman 
 whose creed was " no good Indian but a dead one." 
 But, if there ever was a case where sympathy might 
 well incline to the side of the Indian, it is the one 
 under consideration. 
 
 The Nez Perces had always been friendly to the 
 whites, and it was their boast that they had never 
 slain a white man. They were intelligent, brave, and 
 humane. In this campaign they bought supplies which 
 they might have confiscated; they saved property 
 which they might have destroyed ; they spared hun- 
 dreds of lives which other Indians would have sacri- 
 ficed. If some of the more lawless element commit- 
 ted various outrages, they might justly reply that the 
 whites had fired into their tents where their women 
 and children were sleeping. In short, their conduct 
 in this campaign places them in all respects vastly 
 nearer the standard of civilized people than any other 
 of the native tribes of the continent. 
 
 In estimating the causes that led to the war, history 
 
126 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 can not fail to establish that the Indians were in the 
 right. It was a last desperate stand against the inev- 
 itable destiny which was robbing the Indian of his 
 empire ; a final protest against the intolerable en- 
 croachments of the pale face. In defense of this prin- 
 ciple, the Nez Perees staked their all on a single 
 throw.- They lost, and were irretrievably ruined. 
 They were transported to a distant territory, and the 
 land of their fathers they saw no more.* 
 
 The campaign of 1877 was the only one in which 
 tourists of the National Park were ever subjected to 
 serious danger from the Indians. It has left its mark 
 indelibly upon the Park. " Nez Perce Creek " will al- 
 ways remind the traveler of the terrible danger in 
 which another party of tourists was once placed upon 
 the borders of that stream. " Howard's Trail" will 
 not soon be effaced from the forests and mountains 
 where Captain Spurgin, with brilliant expedition, 
 built the first passable highway through that tangled 
 wilderness. 
 
 In 1878, there was a slight alarm in the Park 
 caused by an ephemeral raid of the Bannock Indians ; 
 but, beyond the loss of a few horses, no damage was 
 done. 
 
 * After the surrender, Joseph and a few of his followers were 
 sent to Fort Leavenworth, where they remained until July, 1878, 
 when they were taken to the Indian Territory. After languishing 
 here for seven years, they were established on the Colville Res- 
 ervation in Washington. 
 
ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY OF THE PARK. 127 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY Otf THE PARK. 
 
 The Act of Dedication of the Yellowstone National 
 Park indicates in clear terms the purposes for which 
 it was created. These are : 
 
 (1.) The preservation of its natural curiosities, its 
 forests, and its game. 
 
 (2.) The reservation of its territory from private oc- 
 cupancy so that it may remain in unrestricted freedom 
 " for the benefit and enjoyment of the people." 
 
 (3.) The granting of such leases and other privileges 
 as may be necessary for the comfort and convenience 
 of visitors. 
 
 One grave omission in the original act, and the long- 
 continued failure of Congress to remedy it by subse- 
 quent legislation, in a large degree nullified these im- 
 portant purposes. Strange as it may seem, for twenty- 
 two years, or until the spring of 1894, there was no 
 law defining offenses in the Park or providing a pen- 
 alty for their commission. Wanton vandalism, de- 
 struction of game, or burning of forests, could be 
 visited with no heavier punishment than ejection from 
 the Park and confiscation of " outfit." In the reports 
 of every Superintendent, for more than a score of 
 years, this condition of affairs was brought to the at- 
 tention of Congress. Meanwhile there were ex- 
 perienced all the evils of a license which at times 
 was wholly unchecked and which has never until very 
 recently been under proper control. 
 
128 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 This long-standing misfortune was aggravated by 
 another scarcely less serious the failure of Congress 
 for several years to appropriate funds for the pro- 
 tection and improvement of the Park. For this fail- 
 ure, however, no one can justly be held faultily re- 
 sponsible. The promoters of the Park project had 
 based extravagant expectations upon the results to be 
 derived from leases. They believed that the revenue 
 from this source would amply cover the expense of 
 opening the necessary highways and providing a 
 proper police force. They did not make due allow- 
 ance, for the fact that there was at that time no rail- 
 road within 500 miles ; that the new reservation was 
 an almost impassable wilderness, and that the con- 
 struction of roads and bridges must necessarily pre- 
 cede any profitable tourist business. Neither do they 
 seem to have realized that these leases could not, in 
 the nature of things, yield a revenue commensurate 
 with the work of opening up so wild and extensive a 
 country. The argument of self-support was a mis- 
 taken one. It did an important work, however, for it 
 is doubtful if Congress would have created this reser- 
 vation had it not believed that no additional public 
 burden was to be incurred thereby. 
 
 The subsequent results of this erroneous impression 
 were in every way unfortunate. It was several years 
 (1872 to 1878) before any money was appropriated for 
 the Park, which, in the meanwhile, was left wholly 
 without means for its improvement and protection. 
 The Secretary of the Interior might indeed publish 
 rules and regulations for its government, but they 
 could avail but little so long as there was no au- 
 thority to carry them into execution. In fact, the 
 
ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY OF THE PARK. 129 
 
 only valuable result of the creation of the Park dur- 
 ing these years was the exclusion of settlers from its 
 territory. 
 
 Shortly after the Park was created, the Hon. N". P. 
 Langford was appointed its first Superintendent. The 
 selection was in every sense an admirable one. Mr. 
 Laugford had been a member of the famous Wash- 
 burn Expedition, and an earnest worker in securing 
 the Act of Dedication. He was intimately acquainted 
 with all phases of western life, and was an enthusiast 
 upon the subject of his new charge. But, from the 
 first, his hands were completely tied. No money was 
 ever allowed him for his services, nor for any other 
 form of expenditure in the interests of the Park. He 
 was, therefore, powerless to accomplish effective work. 
 His office, which he held for about five years, was a 
 source of great annoyance to him ; for he was fre- 
 quently, and most unjustly, charged in the public 
 press with the responsibility for a condition of things 
 ' for which he was in no sense to blame. 
 
 In 1877, there appeared, as Mr. Langford's suc- 
 cessor, one of the most unique and picturesque, as 
 well as one of the most important, characters in the 
 history of the Park. This was Philetus W. Norris, 
 of Michigan. He was appointed immediately upon 
 the advent of President Hayes' administration, and 
 held office very nearly five years, or almost exactly the 
 same length of time as his predecessor. 
 
 Norris filled with varying capacity the roles of ex- 
 plorer, path -finder, poet, and historian in the Park. 
 He was a man of extraordinary energy, and, if not in 
 the fullest sense a practical man, he had at least the 
 invaluable quality of being able to produce results. 
 
130 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 He entered upon his new field of duty with a genuine 
 enthusiasm, and he was fortunate in receiving from 
 Congress substantial means with which to carry out 
 his plans. 
 
 The work of Norris' administration may be con- 
 veniently considered under three heads : his discove- 
 ries, his road building, and his reports. 
 
 He was pre-eminently an explorer. He not only 
 traveled repeatedly over all the known trails, but 
 he penetrated the unknown sections of the Park in 
 every direction. Though not the discoverer, he first 
 made generally known the geyser basin that bears his 
 name. He explored and reported upon the Hoodoo 
 region, and first called prominent attention to the no- 
 ble canon of the Middle Gardiner. But the most im- 
 portant feature of his explorations was the study he 
 made of the history and antiquities of the Park. "We 
 owe more to him than to any one else for evidence of 
 the former presence of white men in that region. 
 His discoveries also in the matter of prehistoric races 
 and of early Indian history possess scientific value. 
 
 In the role of road builder, Norris was a pioneer in 
 the Park. Before his time, wagons could get up the 
 Gardiner to Mammoth Hot Springs, and up the Mad- 
 ison to the Lower Geyser Basin. He opened the way 
 direct from Mammoth Hot Springs to the Upper 
 Geyser Basin, from the Lower Basin to the Yellow- 
 stone River, Lake, and Falls, and from Mammoth Hot 
 Springs to Tower Creek. He thus shortened the old 
 pack-train route by one-third, and foreshadowed the 
 general road system which Lieutenant Kingman later 
 formulated into a permanent project of improvement. 
 As a road engineer, he was not a distinguished sue- 
 
ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY OF T11E PARK. 131 
 
 cess. His work was ill-conceived and poorly exe- 
 cuted, but at the same time it gave access to many 
 places wholly inaccessible before. All the difference 
 between poor roads and none at all may justly be 
 placed to his credit. 
 
 The third and most important feature of Morris' 
 work was his official reports and other writings. As 
 he was always doing something, although seldom in 
 the best way, so he was always saying something, 
 with the same constitutional defect. Nevertheless, he 
 has left in his five annual reports a great deal of use- 
 ful information, which he supplemented by a long se- 
 ries of articles in the Morris Suburban, a paper at that 
 time largely read throughout the West. It is not too 
 much to say that he was a prime mover in the strong 
 awakening of public sentiment in regard to the Park 
 which began to show itself toward the close of hi:? 
 administration. 
 
 Xorris' work in the Yellowstone Park can not be 
 passed over without praise. It left its mark, as its 
 author did his name, in every quarter. But one 
 thing must be charged to his account an almost 
 
 o o 
 
 total failure to protect the Park. He did, indeed, by 
 his public utterances, denounce the vandalism and 
 game destruction that were then rampant; but he did 
 little in a practical way to prevent them no more, in 
 fact, than his predecessor, although he was given the 
 means. 
 
 Xorris was succeeded in February, 1882, by Patrick 
 H. Conger, of Iowa. Of this Superintendent, it need 
 only be said that his administration was throughout 
 characterized by a weakness and inefficiency which 
 brought the Park to the lowest ebb of its fortunes, 
 
132 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 and drew forth the severe condemnation of visitors 
 and public officials alike. This administration is an 
 important one, however, for it marks the period of 
 change in public sentiment already referred to, and 
 the commencement of reform in the government of 
 the reservation. 
 
 As if the unfortunate condition of affairs due to the 
 lack of suitable laws for the reservation were not 
 enough, there arose in the early part of Superin- 
 tendent Conger's administration a new and even more 
 formidable danger, under the euphemistic title of the 
 Yellowstone Park Improvement Company. Previous 
 to this time, there had been no regular leases in the 
 Park. Several informal permits for occupancy had 
 been granted, and a small number of inferior build- 
 ings had been erected. In 1880, there were nine of 
 these buildings, nearly all of them being plain log- 
 cabins, with earth roofs, of the common frontier pat- 
 tern. Only two, the headquarters building at Mam- 
 moth Hot Springs and Marshall's Hotel in the Lower 
 Geyser Basin, rose in dignity above the primitive 
 type. No one as yet thought of remaining in the 
 Park during the winter season. 
 
 But it finally dawned upon certain sagacious indi- 
 viduals that here was a rare opportunity 'to exploit 
 the government for their private emolument under the 
 generous guise of improving the Park, and catering 
 to the comfort of the tourist. A company was ac 
 cordingly formed, and a valuable ally secured in the 
 person of the Assistant Secretary of the Interior, who 
 granted a lease of 4,400 acres in tracts of about a 
 square mile at each of the great points of interest. 
 It was urged in defense of this sweeping grant, that 
 
ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY OF THE PARK. 133 
 
 it was hoped in that way to secure the protection 
 which had yet failed to be found by any other method. 
 It was thought that, if responsible parties could be 
 given exclusive control of these natural curiosities, 
 they would, at least from motives of self-interest, pre- 
 serve them. But such a monopolistic privilege was 
 clearly opposed to the spirit of the Act of Dedication. 
 Why set apart this region for the free and unrestricted 
 enjoyment of the people, if the Secretary of the In- 
 terior could give to private parties absolute control of 
 all its most important localities ? Was this a proper in- 
 terpretation of "small parcels of ground," as specified 
 in the act ? The danger involved in this action was 
 indeed a grave one, and it at once aroused a storm of 
 protest throughout the country. 
 
 It was about this time also that there began to ap- 
 pear those various railroad and segregation projects 
 which from that time to the present have been a for- 
 midable menace to the continued existence of the 
 Park. A more extensive consideration of this par- 
 ticular subject is reserved for a later chapter. 
 
 It thus became apparent as early as 1882, that im- 
 mediate and radical measures must be adopted if the 
 Park was to be preserved in its original condition. 
 General Sheridan who passed through that region in 
 1881, 1882, and 1883, gave forcible warning of the im- 
 pending danger, and urgently appealed to the public 
 sentiment of the country in favor of some action which 
 should avert it. The Governor of Montana made an 
 earnest appeal to Congress. Other influential voices 
 united in the same cause, and already it was broadly 
 hinted that the only salvation of the Park lay in turn- 
 ing it over to the militarv. The whole matter was 
 
134 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 brought prominently before the next Congress, and in 
 March, 1883, a clause in the Sundry Civil Bill contain- 
 ing the annual appropriation for the Park, forbade the 
 granting of leases of more than ten acres to any sin- 
 gle party, authorized the Secretary of the Interior to 
 call upon the Secretary of War for troops to patrol 
 the Park, and provided for the employment often as- 
 sistant superintendents who were to constitute a police 
 force. Thus was the bold scheme of the Improvement 
 Company frustrated, and the foundation laid for the 
 present administrative system. The Secretary of the 
 Interior, however, seems not to have wished to avail 
 himself of militauy assistance, and it was several years 
 before this provision of the law was put into opera- 
 tion. 
 
 It was in this same year that the killing of birds 
 and animals in the Park, and the taking offish by any 
 other method than by hook and line, were absolutely 
 prohibited. Previously, hunting had been allowed so 
 far as was necessary to supply the wants of camping 
 parties a concession that practically operated as an 
 unrestricted license. 
 
 The failure of Congress to enact needed legislation 
 at length became so nearly chronic that relief was 
 sought in another direction. Nearly all the territory 
 of the Park, and all its great attractions, were within 
 the limits of "Wyoming. Might it not therefore be 
 within the province of territorial legislation to fur- 
 nish the necessary legal protection? The subject was 
 agitated, and in the winter of 1884, an act was passed, 
 designed " to protect and preserve the timber, game, 
 fish, and natural curiosities of the Park," and for- 
 other purposes. The act was very stringent in its. 
 
ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY OF THE PARK. 135 
 
 provisions, and clearly indicated the deep-seated na- 
 ture of the disease which it has designed to cure. But 
 it totally failed of its purpose. The attempt at terri- 
 torial control of what was really a national institution 
 was in itself a grave blunder. Then, the officials 
 chosen to execute the law seem to have been poorly 
 qualified for the purpose, and to have displayed la- 
 mentable want of tact and moderation. Some of their 
 arrests were so tyrannical and inexcusable, as to create 
 universal protest. The spectacle of the assistant su- 
 perintendents federal officials sharing, as informers, 
 the tines levied by a territorial court, was not designed 
 to create respect for the new authority. At length 
 the unpopularity of the law became so extreme, that 
 it was repealed March 10, 1886. 
 
 Although so unwise a measure could not stand, the 
 first effect of its repeal was to advertise the fact that 
 the Park was practically without legal protection. 
 Matters became even worse than before. The com- 
 mon verdict, as gathered from official reports and 
 other sources, is that the body of police, styled assist- 
 ant superintendents, were notoriously inefficient if not 
 positively corrupt. They were, for the most part, 
 creatures of political favoritism, and were totally un- 
 used to the service required of them. Commissioned 
 as guardians of the rarest natural wonders on the 
 globe, they not infrequently made merchandise of the 
 treasures which they were appointed to preserve. 
 Under their surveillance, vandalism was practically 
 unchecked, and the slaughter of game was carried on 
 for private profit almost in sight of the superintend- 
 ent's quarters. Already some of the rarer species of 
 animals had suffered a depletion in numbers from 
 
136 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 which they have never recovered ; and the prediction 
 of Prof. Comstock, in 1874, seemed on the point of 
 realization, that " the zoological record of to-day " 
 was about to " pass into the domain of the paleontol- 
 ogist." 
 
 The difficulties that beset the administration of the 
 Park seem to have been too great for Superintendent 
 Conger to grapple with successfully, and he resigned, 
 July 28, 1884. It may at least be said in his favor, 
 that, weak as his management had been, no charge of 
 corruption or dishonesty was ever brought against 
 him. 
 
 In his place was appointed, August 4, 1884, Robert 
 E. Carpenter, of Iowa. Mr. Carpenter's views of the 
 requirements of his office were clear and positive ; and 
 he promptly set about to carry them into execution. 
 In his opinion, the Park was created to be an instru- 
 ment of profit to those who were shrewd enough to 
 grasp the opportunity. Its protection and improve- 
 ment were matters of secondary consideration. In- 
 stead of remaining at his post during the winter sea- 
 son, he went to Washington, and there, in concert 
 with a member of the Improvement Company, very 
 nearly succeeded in carrying a measure through Con- 
 gress by which important tracts upon the Reservation 
 were to be thrown open to private occupancy. So 
 confident of success were these conspirators that they 
 even located claims upon the tracts in question, and 
 their names appeared on claim notices posted to des- 
 ignate the localities. Fortunately the measure failed 
 of passage, but the scandal of Superintendent Car- 
 penter's conduct led to his prompt removal from 
 office. 
 
ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY OF THE PARK. 137 
 
 On the day of his removal, May 29, 1885, Colonel 
 David W. Wear, of Missouri, was appointed to the 
 vacancy. Colonel Wear appears to have been admir- 
 ably fitted for the place. He at once set out to reform 
 the administration of the Park, and his intelligent and 
 vigorous measures gave the highest encouragement to 
 those who had been familiar with the previous condi- 
 tion of affairs. But, as has often happened before, 
 and will often happen again, he was made to suffer 
 for the sins of his predecessors. The bad repute into 
 which the government of the Park had fallen was not 
 easily removed, and Congress finally declined to ap- 
 propriate money for a protection which did not pro- 
 tect. The Secretary of the Interior was thus com- 
 pelled to call upon the Secretary of War for assist- 
 ance. The regime of civilian superintendents passed 
 away, and that of the military superintendents began. 
 The change was bitterly opposed by the Secretary of 
 the Interior and by all who held or hoped to hold 
 places under the old order ; but the sequel quickly 
 proved the wisdom of this action of Congress. The old 
 order necessarily felt the evil of our patronage system 
 of officeholding; but no single act ever went so far to 
 eliminate this fruitful source of misfortune as the as- 
 signment of the administrative control of the Park to 
 the officers and soldiers of the army. 
 
 August 20, 1886, marks the turning point in the 
 administrative history of the Reservation. It was 
 upon that day that Captain Moses Harris, First U. S. 
 Cavalry, relieved the civilian Superintendent of his 
 duties, and soldiers supplanted the so-called assistant 
 Superintendents as a Park police. Henceforth an en- 
 tirely new order was to obtain. It was to be seen 
 12 
 
138 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 how much could be accomplished, even in the absence 
 of laws, toward a vigorous and healthful administra- 
 tion. Trespassers upon the Reservation were promptly 
 removed. The regulations were revised and extended, 
 printed upon cloth, and posted in all parts of the 
 Park ; and their violation was visited with summary 
 punishment to the full extent of the Superintendent's 
 authority. Abuses of leasehold rights were search- 
 ingly inquired into and reported to the department. 
 As soon as this show of real authority was made man- 
 ifest, and it became apparent that here was a man 
 who meant what he said, a great part of the difficulty 
 was over. Nothing in fact conduces so much to the 
 infraction of law as a belief in the incompetency or 
 dishonesty of those delegated to enforce it, and the 
 removal of this cause was a long step in the right di- 
 rection. 
 
 The Park was particularly fortunate in its first mil- 
 itary Superintendent. Captain Harris possessed in a 
 marked degree the qualities required for that position. 
 He was vigorous and uncompromising in suppressing 
 lawlessness, just and impartial in his rulings, and un- 
 tiring in his watchfulness for the public interest. 
 Although his immediate superior, the Secretary of 
 the Interior, had strenuously opposed the installation 
 of the military in the Park, he never failed to pay a 
 high tribute to the efficiency with which the new Su- 
 perintendent performed his duties. In fact, this high 
 opinion of Captain Harris' services was soon shared 
 by all who were familiar with the situation. Even 
 Forest and Stream, whose fidelity to the best interests 
 of the Park has been a distinguishing feature of that 
 journal for the past fifteen years, was fain to admit, 
 
ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY OF THE PARK. 139 
 
 although it had regarded the change as impolitic, 
 that under Captain Harris" guardianship "the Park 
 had been cared for as it never had been before." 
 
 Captain Harris remained in charge for nearly three 
 years, and was succeeded, June 1, 1889, by Captain 
 F. A. Boutelle, First U. S. Cavalry. That the evil of 
 political interference and private intriguing was not 
 yet wholly eliminated from the affairs of the Park be- 
 came manifest when Captain Boutelle undertook to 
 enforce the regulations against a prominent employe 
 of the hotel company. For causes not publicly un- 
 derstood, he was unexpectedly relieved from duty 
 January 21, 1891, and Captain George S. Anderson, 
 Sixth U. S. Cavalry, the present Superintendent, was 
 assigned in his place. 
 
 Going back now to the Yellowstone Park Improve- 
 ment Company, the history of that erratic concern 
 will be briefly traced. It is important first to state, 
 however, that the conduct of private business in the 
 Park has, until recent years, been most unsatisfactory. 
 The Park was long unfortunate in the men who 
 sought to carry on business within its borders, and 
 even yet it is not wholly free from the evil of un- 
 scrupulous and dishonest schemers. The strife, back- 
 biting, struggle to ruin each other, which seemed to 
 be the chief purpose of those who at first sought gov- 
 ernment favors on the Reservation, can be understood 
 only by those who have seen them, or have gone to 
 the trouble to examine official correspondence. More 
 than once has the government made these troubles the 
 subject of special investigation, although generally 
 with indifferent results. 
 
 The new hotel company had a meteoric career, 
 
140 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 promising great things, but effecting no permanent 
 improvement except the partial construction of the 
 Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. Its fortunes early col- 
 lapsed, and the opening of the tourist season of 1885 
 found the great building in the possession of unpaid 
 workmen, who held it under a kind of military guard 
 until their wages should be paid. 
 
 This company, and other lesser concerns, gradually 
 transferred their rights to a new company, called the 
 Yellowstone Park Association, which is still in opera- 
 tion. It is largely identified with the Northern Pacific 
 Railroad, and although it has a practical monopoly of 
 the tourist business, it has never subjected itself to the 
 charge of using that monopoly to the disadvantage of 
 the public. From the old and unsatisfactory condi- 
 tion of things it has built up a hotel system which, 
 though incomplete, is far ahead of what could be rea- 
 sonably expected in a region so remote from the great 
 centers of civilization. 
 
 It was in the early part of Conger's administration 
 that the government took up in earnest the question 
 of road construction. For some years, the public, 
 thoroughly weary of Norris' roads, had been urging 
 the necessity of sending an engineer officer to take 
 charge of that important matter. This agitation bore 
 fruit in 1883 in the assignment of Lieutenant D. C. 
 Kingman, of the Corps of Engineers, to the charge 
 of this work. His tour of duty ran through three 
 years, and revsulted in the greatest improvement to 
 the road system. He prepared the project which has 
 served as a basis of all subsequent work, arid he did 
 much toward carrying it into execution. His reports 
 were especially valuable, not only in matters con- 
 
ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY OF THE PARK. 141 
 
 nected with his particular work, but also those per- 
 taining to the general welfare of the Reservation. 
 He was among the first to lift a warning voice against 
 the grave danger of railroad encroachment, and no 
 one since his time has presented this matter in a more 
 convincing light. 
 
 The years 1894 and 1895 have brought a radical im- 
 provement to the administrative status of the Park. 
 May 4, 1894, the long desired code of laws was en- 
 acted. On August 3d of the same year, an act was 
 passed further regulating the question of leases and 
 removing the most serious defects of previous legis- 
 lation. In the autumn of the same year, the road 
 work was taken from the charge of a non-resident en- 
 gineer with headquarters in St. Paul, and placed in 
 direct charge of the Superintendent, thus bringing 
 the entire administrative control under a single head. 
 
 These two years have also witnessed a decided check 
 to the schemes of those who still persist in believing 
 that the Park was created for their personal aggran- 
 dizement. Strong adverse reports have been sub- 
 mitted, practically for the first time, by Congressional 
 Committees against the so-called Segregation project, 
 the admission of railroads into the Park, and the con- 
 struction of an electric railway therein. 
 
 With the exception of the lack of a sufficient force 
 of scouts properly to patrol that region, the condition 
 of affairs on the Reservation is now eminently satis- 
 factory far more so than at any previous period. 
 
142 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE NATIONAL PARK PROTECTIVE ACT. 
 
 One of the most important milestones in the history 
 of the Park has been so recently set that the public 
 is as yet not fully conscious of its existence. It has 
 already been stated that for more than twenty years 
 the Park was wholly without adequate statutory 
 protection ; and that this long-standing defect was 
 finally remedied by the enactment of a compre- 
 hensive measure in the spring of 1894. The circum- 
 stances attending the passage of this Act, and the 
 prompt manner in which a great misfortune was 
 changed into a lasting benefit, form one of those 
 singular instances of good fortune which have so 
 largely characterized the history of this region. 
 
 Bills providing suitable protection for the Park 
 were introduced at the First Session of the Fifty-third 
 Congress, just as they have been for the past twenty 
 years, and apparently with not much greater chance 
 of success. The wanton recklessness of those who seek 
 special privileges in the Park, and are unwilling that 
 any measure for its welfare shall pass unless coupled 
 with their own private schemes, threatened this time, 
 as hitherto, to defeat Congressional action. But an 
 unforeseen event, of such powerful bearing as prac- 
 tically to override all opposition, occurred in March, 
 1894, and quickly brought about the desired consum- 
 mation. 
 
 It is well known that the only herd of bison, now 
 
THE NATIONAL PARK PROTECTIVE ACT. 143 
 
 roaming in their native condition within the present 
 limits of the United States, is in the Yellowstone 
 National Park. There has always been a lively inter- 
 est in the preservation of this herd, and its extinction 
 would be regarded as a deplorable calamity. With 
 proper protection, it will undoubtedly nourish, but 
 there is no margin for carlessness or neglect. 
 
 During the winter of 1894, Captain George S. An- 
 derson, U. S. A., Superintendent of the Park, learned 
 that snow-shoe tracks had been seen along Astringent 
 Creek in the Pelican Valley east of the Yellowstone 
 River, in territory ranged over by the bufialo in 
 winter. The same tracks were seen near Soda Butte 
 station pointing toward Cooke City. Inquiry proved 
 them to have been made by one Howell, a well known 
 poacher and lawless character, who was evidently 
 driving his trade in the winter buffalo country. It 
 was apparent that he had left the Park for supplies 
 and would soon return. Captain Anderson accord- 
 ingly laid his plans for capture. 
 
 There has been given a brief account of the winter 
 expedition through the Park in the spring of 1894, of 
 which Mr. F. J. llaynes and Scout Burgess were 
 members. Burgess was instructed to examine the 
 country east of the Yellowstone and obtain, if possi- 
 ble, a clue to Ilowell's whereabouts. Early on the 
 morning of March 12th, he set out from the Lake 
 hotel with a single companion, Private Troike, of the 
 Sixth' Cavalry, and before it was scarcely daylight 
 struck a dim snow shoe trail in the valley of Astrin- 
 gent Creek. Soon after, he found the poacher's teepe 
 and a number of buft'alo heads hung up, by means of 
 a pulley, to the limb of a tree so as to be out of the 
 
144 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 reach of wolves. Every thing indicated that the 
 poacher was there for a business of some duration and 
 magnitude. 
 
 Leaving the teepe and following Howell's morning 
 trail for some distance. Burgess' attention was soon 
 arrested by six rifle reports. These six shots slew five 
 buffalo. Burgess soon discovered Howell, engaged in 
 skinning the head of one of the buffalo. His rifle 
 was leaning against another some fifteen feet from 
 him. A dog (but this Burgess did not know) was 
 coiled up under the leg of a buffalo. Burgess thus 
 had the dangerous duty to perform of crossing the 
 intervening space of some four hundred yards, where 
 there was no cover and where he might easily be seen 
 by Howell or the dog. Considering the desperate 
 character of these poachers, and the fact that Burgess 
 was armed only with a revolver as against Howell's 
 rifle, the peril involved in this capture may be easily 
 appreciated. But fortune was on Burgess' side. A 
 heavy storm was on, and the wind was blowing direct 
 from Howell to Burgess. This prevented the dog from 
 scenting approach, and Howell from hearing any 
 noise, from the leeward. Burgess did not stop to 
 reckon the chances of success, but promptly sallied 
 forth upon his intended victim. On his way he ran 
 upon an open ditch about ten feet wide. To make a 
 snow shoe jump on level ground is a feat of much 
 difficulty ; but Burgess managed to accomplish it. By 
 jjood fortune nothing happened to arouse Howell, and 
 Burgess got within fifteen feet of him before he was 
 aware that there was any one within as many miles. 
 With Burgess cocked revolver over him, he discreetly 
 surrendered. Private Troike was summoned, the rifle 
 
THE NATIONAL PARK PROTECTIVE ACT. 145 
 
 and accouterments were seized, and the party set out 
 at once for the Lake hotel. But such are the difficul- 
 ties of snow shoe travel in this region, that it was long 
 after dark before they reached their destination. 
 
 The Yellowstone Park Association keeps a* solitary 
 watchman at each of its hotels during winter, and has 
 a telephone line connecting each with Mammoth Hot 
 Springs. By virtue of this lucky fact, HowelPs cap- 
 ture, though made some sixty miles from the nearest 
 telegraph station, and in a region where winter travel 
 is impossible except on snow shoes, was made known 
 to the Superintendent before 9:30 p. M. that day. By 
 an other stroke of good fortune a representative of Forest 
 and Stream was at that moment present at Mammoth 
 Hot Springs. He had arrived but two days before and 
 remained a guest of the Superintendent prior to a tour 
 of the Park, which began two days later. The news 
 of Howell's capture was at once put on the wire, and 
 in less that twenty-four hours, Forest and Stream was 
 represented in Washington with a new and powerful 
 argument for the passage of the Offenses Bill. The 
 imminent danger of the speedy and entire extinction 
 of the only remaining herd of buffalo in the country 
 produced the desired effect in Congress, and on May 
 7, 1894, the bill became a law. 
 
 It was throughout a most fortunate combination of 
 circumstances that made this consummation possible. 
 A Superintendent thoroughly devoted to the care of his 
 important charge, and fearless in the execution of his 
 duty ; a scout who had the nerve to make an arrest 
 full of peril to himself; the existence of a winter 
 telephone line to the heart of that inaccessible region ; 
 
146 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 the presence at Mammoth Hot Springs of a repre- 
 sentative of that journal which holds first rank among 
 the protectors of the Park ; and uncommon good 
 luck in minor details, caused this important event to 
 cast its influence into the national councils almost be- 
 fore the echo of the poacher's rifle shots had died 
 away among the mountains. HowelPs act was a 
 misfortune a grievous misfortune to the game in- 
 terests of the Park; but its immediate result in leg- 
 islation will prove a benefit of far greater conse 
 quence. 
 
 Howell was brought to Mammoth Hot Springs and 
 was there imprisoned in the l^ort Yellowstone guard- 
 house, and his case reported to Washington. As 
 there was no law for his trial and punishment, the 
 Secretary of the Interior in due time ordered his re- 
 lease. He was accordingly put out of the Park and 
 forbidden to return without permission. But with his 
 habitual disregard of authority, he came back during 
 the following summer and was discovered by the Super- 
 intendent in ii barber's chair at Mammoth Hot Springs 
 Hotel. He was promptly arrested and tried under 
 the new law for violating the orders of the Super- 
 intendent in returning. He was convicted and sen- 
 tenced to one month's imprisonment and fifty dollars 
 fine. He thus became the Park Human first to be 
 hanged upon the gallows of his own building. 
 
 Howell appealed the case to the U. S. District Court 
 sitting at Cheyenne, Wyoming, and was released 
 upon the technical ground that, as the prohibition 
 against returning to the Park was merely an order 
 from the Superintendent, and not explicitly author- 
 
THE NATIONAL PARK PROTECTIVE ACT. 147 
 
 ized by the regulations of the Secretary of the Interior, 
 the offense did not come within the purview of the 
 law. This defect in the regulations has since been 
 remedied and the conviction of Howell, therefore, 
 notwithstanding his final release, has all the force of 
 precedent. 
 
148 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PAKK. 
 
 PART II. Descriptive. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 BOUNDARIES AND TOPOGRAPHY. 
 
 At the time when the bill creating the Yellowstone- 
 Park was before Congress there had been no detailed 
 survey of that region, and the boundaries, as speci- 
 fied in the bill, were to some extent random guesses. 
 The exploring parties of 1870 and 1871 had seen all 
 the more important points of interest. To include 
 these in the proposed reservation, the framers of the 
 bill passed two lines due east and west, one through 
 the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner Rivers, 
 and one through a point ten miles south of the most 
 southerly point of the Yellowstone Lake ; and two 
 lines due north and south, one through a point ten 
 miles east of the easternmost point of Yellowstone 
 Lake, and one through a point fifteen miles west of 
 the -most westerly point of Shoshone (then called 
 Madison) Lake. The nearly rectangular area thus re- 
 sulting was found to lie mainly in the north-west 
 corner of Wyoming, with narrow strips, two or three 
 miles wide, overlapping into the Territories of Mon- 
 tana and Idaho. The mean dimensions of the Res- 
 ervation were 61.8 miles by 53.6 miles, giving an area 
 of 3312.5 square miles. 
 
 By presidential proclamation, dated September 10, 
 1891, a large area to the east and south of the Park 
 
BOUNDARIES AND TOPOGRAPHY. 149 
 
 was set apart as a Forest Reserve, under the provisions 
 of an Act of March 3, 1891, and was placed in charge 
 of the Superintendent of the Park. By this action 
 the area reserved from settlement around the sources 
 of the Yellowstone was increased to about 5,000 
 square miles. It should be remembered, however, 
 that this additional reserve is not a direct creation by 
 Act of Congress, and it therefore does not stand upon 
 the same substantial footing as the original Reserva- 
 tion. 
 
 The chief topographical features of the Park are as 
 follows : 
 
 DRAINAGE AREAS. 
 
 Three great rivers receive the waters of the Yellow- 
 stone Park the Yellowstone, the Missouri, and the 
 Snake. The first two rivers are on the Atlantic slope ; 
 the third is on the Pacific slope. The areas drained 
 by them are approximately : 
 
 By the Yellowstone. 1,900 square miles. 
 
 By the Missouri, 730 square miles. 
 
 By the Snake, 682 square miles. 
 
 The Yellowstone River has its source in the snow 
 drifts of Yount Peak, twenty-five miles south-east of 
 the Park. It enters the Reservation six miles west of 
 the south-east corner ; crosses it in a direction some- 
 what west of north, and leaves it at a point about 
 nineteen miles east of the north-west corner. Near the 
 center of the Park it flows through the celebrated 
 lake of the same name, and further north passes 
 through two remarkable canons before it leaves the 
 Reservation. Its principal tributaries within the Park 
 are the Lamar River (commonly called the East Fork), 
 from the east, and Gardiner River from the west. 
 
150 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 TheLamar River rises nearly due east of the outlet 
 of Yellowstone Lake and flows north-westerly, joining 
 the main stream near Junction Butte. Its principal 
 tributary is Soda Butte Creek, which rises just out- 
 side the north-east corner of the Park and joins the 
 Lamar River near the extinct hot spring cone from 
 which it derives its name. 
 
 Gardiner River is the second largest tributary of the 
 Yellowstone, and drains the extensive area between 
 the Washburn and Gallatin Mountains. 
 
 The low-water discharge of the Yellowstone River, 
 as measured by the writer, in 1891, a little below the 
 lake outlet, is 1,598 cubic feet per second ; as meas- 
 ured by the United States Geological Survey, in 
 1886, 1,525 cubic feet. The discharge at the north 
 boundary of the Park can not be less than 2,000 
 cubic feet. 
 
 The Missouri River drainage flows into the Gallatin 
 and Madison forks of that stream. The Gallatin 
 drains only a small area in the extreme north-west 
 corner of the Park. The Madison is formed by the 
 junction of the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers, about 
 twelve miles east of the west boundary of the Park. 
 The Gibbon takes its rise a few miles west of the 
 Falls of the Yellowstone, and flows in a south-west 
 direction. The Firehole rises in Madison Lake, and 
 flows north to its junction with the Gibbon. Its 
 principal tributaries are the Little Firehole River and 
 Iron Creek on the west, and Nez Perce Creek on the 
 east. 
 
 The Snake River drains the south-west portion of 
 the Park. It rises about fifteen miles south of Yel- 
 lowstone Lake, just outside the Park. It then takes 
 
BOUNDARIES AND TOPOGRAPHY. 151 
 
 a northerly circuit into the Park, receiving the waters 
 of Hart and Lewis Rivers, and leaves the Reservation 
 just north of Jackson Lake. Its principal tributary 
 is the Lewis River, which drains Shoshone and Lewis 
 Lakes. Several large streams, Bechler and Falls Riv- 
 ers among them, cross the south-west boundary of the 
 Park and join the main Snake further south. 
 
 The line of separation between this water-shed and 
 those of the Yellowstone and the Missouri, is the 
 Continental Divide, the irregular course of which can 
 be readily understood by consulting the map. 
 
 In the entire Park there are about thirty-six named 
 lakes with a total area of nearly 165 square miles. 
 Of these lakes, twenty-one, with an area of 143 square 
 miles, are on the Yellowstone slope; eight, with an 
 area of perhaps two square miles, are on the Missouri 
 slope ; and seven, with an area of about twenty square 
 miles, are on the Snake River slope. The four prin- 
 cipal lakes Yellowstone, Shoshone, Lewis, and Hart 
 are clustered near the Continental Divide at its lowest 
 point, the first being on the Atlantic slope, and the 
 others on the Pacific. 
 
 There are upon the various streams of the Park no 
 fewer than twenty-five interesting water-falls, where 
 the streams descend from the Park plateau to the 
 lower surrounding country. 
 
 MOUNTAIN SYSTEM 
 
 As the Yellowstone River is the most important 
 stream in the Park, so the Absaroka Range, in which 
 it has its source, is the most important mountain sys- 
 tem. It extends north and south along the entire 
 eastern border. To the south it is prolonged under 
 
152 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 the name of the Sierra Shoshone Mountains as far as 
 the Wind River Valley, while north of Soda Butte 
 Creek it extends to the Great Bend of the Yellow- 
 stone under the name Snowy Range. The various 
 larger summits are remarkably uniform in elevation. 
 From. Index Peak on the north to Yount Peak on -the 
 south, there are more than thirty named mountains 
 with an average altitude of 10,400 feet. The varia- 
 tion from this mean is slight. The range, through- 
 out its length, is full of noble views, and, as seen 
 from across the Yellowstone Lake, is one of the 
 finest exhibitions of mountain scenery on the con- 
 tinent. 
 
 The next most important range is the Gal latin, situ- 
 ated in the north-west corner of the Park, at the head 
 of the Gallatin River. It has about seventeen named 
 peaks, with an average altitude of 9,800 feet. The 
 highest peak, Electric, is the loftiest mountain in the 
 Park. 
 
 The Washburn Range, a detached mountain system, 
 originally known as the " Elephant's Back," is situ- 
 ated between the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone 
 and the Gardiner River. It has seven christened 
 summits, with an average altitude of 9,800 feet. The 
 most conspicuous peak of the range, as well as the 
 most noted mountain of the Park, is Mt. Washburn. 
 
 The Red Mountain Range is a small, detached 
 group of mountains between Hart and Lewis Lakes. 
 Its principal summit, Mt. Sheridan, affords probably 
 the finest view to be had in that entire region. 
 
 The Teton Range lies mainly outside the Park, its 
 northern spurs barely touching the southern boundary. 
 It extends north and south along the west shore of 
 
BOUNDARIES AND TOPOGRAPHY. 153 
 
 Jackson Lake, and is a very noted range of moun- 
 tains. Its highest summit, the Grand Teton, has no 
 competitor for altitude nearer than Fremont Peak, 
 seventy-five miles distant. 
 
 The Big Game Ridge lies along the south boundary 
 of the Park, and is the source of the Snake River. It 
 has six named peaks, with an average altitude of 
 9,800 feet, 
 
 Besides these various groups of mountains, there 
 are a few detached peaks worthy of note, which can 
 not be conveniently classified with any of the princi- 
 pal ranges. 
 
 PLATEAUS. 
 
 A considerable portion of the Park area is com- 
 posed of what may be termed plateaus, elevated tracts 
 of land, not so high as the mountain ranges, but much 
 higher than the valleys. Ordinarily, these are to be 
 found along the divides between the larger streams. 
 The more important are the Pitchstone Plateau, be- 
 tween the Snake River and the head waters of the 
 Bechler and Fall Rivers, with a mean altitude of 8,500 
 feet ; Highland Plateau, between the Yellowstone and 
 the Madison Rivers, altitude 8,300 feet; Mirror 
 Plateau, between the Yellowstone and the Lamar 
 Rivers, altitude 9,000 feet ; Mt. Everts Plateau, be- 
 tween the Yellowstone and the Gardiner, altitude 
 7,000 feet; and the Madison Plateau, west of the 
 Lower Geyser Basin, altitude 8,300 feet. 
 
 VALLEYS. 
 
 These form an exceedingly important part of the 
 Park topography. The largest is Junction Valley, in- 
 cluding its branches along the Yellowstone and the 
 
154 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Lamar Rivers. It is an extensive, grassy tract, 
 stretching well back upon the mountain sides, and 
 forming a fine pasturage for game. For scientific re- 
 search, its fossil forests and other features make it an 
 extremely interesting section. 
 
 Hayden Valley is the next in size and importance, 
 and occupies an important tract along the Yellow- 
 stone River, between the Lake and Falls, mostly on 
 the west side, in the vicinity of Alum Creek. 
 
 The Madison Valley, and its extensions up the 
 Firehole and Gibbon Rivers, are chiefly noteworthy 
 as being the locality of the three great geyser regions 
 of the Park. 
 
 The Swan Lake Flats, Willow Park, the Shoshone 
 and Falls River Basins, are other important examples 
 of typical mountain valleys. 
 
 ALTITUDES. 
 
 The lowest point in the Park is at the junction of 
 the Yellowstone and the Gardiner Rivers, 5,360 feet 
 above sea level ; the highest is the summit of Electric 
 Peak, six miles distant, 11,155 feet. To give a general 
 idea of the altitudes of different points in the Park, 
 particularly of those which the tourist visits, the fol- 
 lowing list is presented :* 
 
 Gardiner, Mont 5,400 feet. 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs hotel 6,215 " 
 
 Glen Creek Bridge above Golden Gate 7,245 " 
 
 Indian Creek Bridge ' 7,275 " 
 
 Beaver Lake 7,360 " 
 
 * From profile of road system. 
 
 For additional elevations, see list of names in Appendix A. 
 
BOUNDARIES AND TOPOGRAPHY. 155 
 
 Norri.s Rond Junction 7,470 feet. 
 
 Gibbon Meadows 7,315 " 
 
 Gibbon and Firehole Rivers, junction of 6,780 " 
 
 Lower Geyser Basin (mouth of Nez Perce Creek). 7,125 " 
 
 Upper Geyser Basin (near Castle Geyser) 7,300 " 
 
 Mouth of Spring Creek 7,600 " 
 
 Isa Lake, Continental Divide 8,300 " 
 
 Yellowstone Lake. 7,741 '" 
 
 Road at Mud Volcano 7,705 " 
 
 Canon Hotel 7,850 " 
 
 Junction Valley near Yancey's 6,150 ' 
 
 Divide betweeu the Blacktail and Gardiner 6,550 " 
 
 SCENERY. 
 
 The mountain scenery of the Park is not so im- 
 posing as that of Colorado and some other parts of 
 the Rocky Mountain region ; but it is more varied 
 and beautiful. The eye is not wearied with the con- 
 stant sight of vast and bare mountain cliffs, but finds 
 relief in attractive lakes, streams, glades, parks, forests, 
 and every combination of effects that helps to produce 
 a beautiful landscape. 
 
156 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 GEOLOGY OF THE PARK. 
 
 Nature seems, from the first, to have designed this 
 region for a mountain park. In geological chronology 
 it was near the close of the Cretaceous Period, that the 
 lifting of the great mountain systems of the West into 
 their present positions was practically finished. In 
 the formation of these mountains, the general outline 
 of the Yellowstone Park was already marked out, 
 probably in much more striking features than at pres- 
 ent. A vast rim of mountains, visible now in the Ab- 
 saroka, Snowy, Gallatin, Teton, and Snake River 
 Ranges, hemmed in the extensive area which has 
 since become so famous. Subsequent events have 
 greatly modified its original form, but the grand out- 
 lines at first determined are still distinctly visible. 
 
 In the Tertiary Period, which was next in order of 
 time after the Cretaceous, changes of the greatest im- 
 portance occurred, consisting principally in the out- 
 pouring of enormous masses of volcanic material. The 
 origin of these lava flows has been traced to a few 
 craters, one of which was near Mt. Washburn, another 
 in the Red Mountain Range, and a third near the 
 sources of the Lamar River. Mt. "Washburn has long 
 been recognized as part of the rim of an ancient vol- 
 cano. Both it and Mt. Sheridan, the two mountains 
 which bore the principal part in working out the 
 present features of that country, still remain the most 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE PARK. 157 
 
 prominent peaks from which the modern visitor can 
 contemplate the work they have performed. . 
 
 The outpourings at first consisted of andesitic lavas. 
 They largely changed the appearance of the mountain 
 ranges and to some extent filled up the interior basin. 
 The flows were not continuous but were separated by 
 long intervals of quiet, during which vegetation and 
 the agencies of erosion were actively at work. 
 
 After the cessation of the andesitic eruptions, a qui- 
 escent period of great length ensued. Then came the 
 period of rhyolitic flows, the centers of volcanic activity 
 being as before Mts. Washburn and Sheridan. These 
 flows built up the present Park plateau, and constitute 
 the great bulk of the rocks which the tourist now 
 sees. 
 
 Following the period of rhyolitic eruptions, oro- 
 graphic agencies were active in producing extensive 
 faults or displacements, which in certain localities 
 radically changed the relative positions of the rocks. 
 
 The last exhibitions of volcanic energy were in the 
 form of basaltic eruptions. These took place in part 
 through ordinary volcanic craters, and in part through 
 cracks or seams in the rocks, where they may still be 
 seen forming extensive dykes. The basalt is of 
 relatively limited extent, but its striking and pictur- 
 esque forms wherever it appears make it more in- 
 teresting to the tourist than any of the other rocks. 
 
 The great variety of superficial appearances which 
 these volcanic rocks have assumed makes the Park 
 one of the best laboratories in the world for their 
 study. 
 
 The continuance of these various outpourings doubt- 
 less extended into Quartenary time. Then carne the 
 
158 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Glacial Epoch, the epoch of wide-spread ice-carving, 
 which still further modified the surface of the country. 
 The paths of the ancient glaciers have in several 
 instances been made out and their transported ma- 
 terial may readily be distinguished. One glacier 
 flowed from the Gallatin Range eastward across Ter- 
 race Mountain, where it joined another moving west- 
 wardly from the Absaroka Range. The united 
 streams continued down the Gardiner and Yellow- 
 stone Valleys, in which vast masses of drift still 
 mark their ancient route. 
 
 Glacial action and the common agents of denuda- 
 tion have given the Park country its present general 
 aspect. These later modifications have indeed been ex- 
 tensive, and the great variety of form now seen in the 
 valleys, canons and hills is the result of their com- 
 bined action. The Yellowstone Canon is a marked 
 example of erosion on a large scale. A direct result 
 of its formation was the partial draining of Yellow- 
 stone Lake, which had previously existed at a much 
 higher level than now, and spread over the entire 
 area of the present Hay den Valley. 
 
 Since the cessation of the basaltic lava flows there 
 seem to have been no further lava outpourings in this 
 region, The old volcanoes have been long extinct 
 and their craters have been modified almost beyond 
 recognition. But evidences of the power which once 
 worked beneath them are still abundant, although no 
 longer on so imposing a scale. It is the hot springs 
 and geysers still in existence which partly render this 
 region so widely celebrated. That this thermal action 
 originates mainly in the same source of energy which 
 once poured out the vast fields of lava, there is no 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE PARK. 159 
 
 reason to doubt. Many plausible explanations are 
 advanced to account for the existence of subterranean 
 heat, but whatever may be its real origin it is doubt- 
 less the same for both classes of phenomena. 
 
 The action which is now observable has continued 
 in an ever-decreasing degree since the close of the 
 lava period. Over vast tracts of the Park plateau, 
 the rocks are entirely decomposed to unknown depths 
 by the ascending superheated vapors. Some idea of 
 the extent of this action may be obtained at the 
 Grand Canon, which has cut its way a thousand feet 
 downward into the decomposed volcanic rock without 
 yet reaching its bottom. The infinite variety of 
 chemic products resulting from this decomposition 
 has given the Canon its wonderful coloration. 
 
 The same condition largely prevails over the Park 
 plateau. Where now are dense forests and no super- 
 ficial evidence of unusual conditions, there will fre- 
 quently be found, by digging beneath the surface, the 
 familiar proof that thermal activity once prevailed 
 there. In constructing the tourist route from the 
 Upper Geyser Basin to the Yellowstone Lake, where 
 for nearly the whole distance there is a complete ab- 
 sence of hot springs, the evidences of former volcanic 
 activity were found to be abundant. 
 
 Facts like these clearly demonstrate that, from a 
 geologic standpoint, thermal activity in the Park is 
 gradually becoming extinct; and many persons, taking 
 alarm at this evidence, imagine that the unique phe- 
 nomena of the Yellowstone are of an evanescent 
 character, and that the time is not far remote when 
 they will be known only as matters of history. There 
 is, however, no occasion for such misgiving. The 
 
160 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 present condition is the result of processes that run 
 back probably for millions of years; certainly for 
 periods of time compared with which recorded history 
 is insignificant. The same rate of progress would 
 produce no perceptible change in the lifetime of an 
 individual. 
 
 Some who have visited the geyser regions more 
 than once assert that, after an interval of several 
 years, they observe a marked diminution in thermal 
 activity. But this is probably because a second visit 
 ordinarily makes a less vivid impression than a first. 
 The weight of reliable evidence is certainly the other 
 way. Mr. David E. Folsom, leader of the Expedition 
 of 1869, made a tour of the Park during the present 
 season of 1895. He says : " I had a very vivid recol- 
 lection of all I saw twenty-six years ago, and I note 
 no important change." Professor Arnold Hague, prob- 
 ably the best living authority upon the scientific feat- 
 tures of the Park, has compared the hot springs and 
 geysers by means of authentic records covering inter- 
 vals of several years, and he declares that he finds " no 
 diminution in the intensity of action or in the amount 
 of discharge from the springs and geysers, since they 
 have been subject to careful observation." While it is 
 certain that springs are constantly becoming inactive, 
 it is no less certain that others replace them, and it 
 may be confidently assumed that the progress toward 
 ultimate extinction will be inappreciable in our time 
 or for many generations to come. 
 
 The distribution of thermal springs over the surface 
 of the earth is probably more general than is com- 
 monly supposed. Only one extensive area is practi- 
 cally without them, and that is the Continent of A us- 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE PARK. 161 
 
 tralia. Africa, also, has very few. But in other parts 
 of the globe they are found almost without number, 
 ranging from the Equator to the Arctic Circle, and 
 from sea-level to the lofty table lands of Thibet. 
 
 The three localities, however, in which they abound 
 in such numbers and magnitude as to attract marked 
 attention are, in the order of their discovery, Iceland, 
 New Zealand, and the Yellowstone National Park. In 
 extent, variety, and magnitude of accompanying phe- 
 nomena, and in geologic age, the above order is re- 
 versed. Iceland has probably the most famous geyser 
 in the world, principally because it was for a long time 
 the only known geyser, and consequently received a 
 great deal of scientific attention ; but judging from 
 published descriptions it is clearly inferior to several 
 now known in the Firehole Geyser Basin. 
 
 Three notable features of similarity in these geyser 
 regions are the presence of volcanic rocks of remote or 
 recent origin ; proximity to the earth's surface of active 
 sources of subterranean heat ; and the presence of a 
 great number of lakes. In all three cases, lava, heat 
 and water are the characteristic geologic and physical 
 accompaniments of those particular phenomena which 
 will now be described more in detail. 
 
162 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 GEYSERS. 
 
 The hot springs of the Yellowstone National Park 
 may be roughly divided into two classes, eruptive and 
 non-eruptive. To the first the term geyser is applied, 
 while the term hot springs is restricted to the second. 
 These two classes pass into each other by insensible 
 gradations and the line of demarcation it is not possible 
 to draw. The following description will pertain only 
 to those examples about which there is no doubt, and 
 which may be taken as types of their class. 
 
 A geyser may be defined as a periodically eruptive 
 hot spring. The name, as might be expected, is of Ice- 
 landic origin, and comes from the verb geysa, to gush. 
 The general characteristics of a true geyser, as illus- 
 trated by the most perfect example known, Old Faith- 
 ful in the Yellowstone Park, are the following: 
 
 (1.) There is an irregular tube descending from the 
 earth's surface to some interior source of heat. 
 
 (2.) The mouth of this tube may be either a self- 
 built mound or cone (as in the example), or simply an 
 open pool. 
 
 (3.) Into this tube meteoric water finds its way and 
 is subjected to the action of heat. 
 
 (4.) The result is an eruption and expulsion of the 
 water from the tube with more or less violence. 
 
 (5.) The eruption is generally preceded by slight 
 preliminary upheavals leading gradually to the final 
 outburst. 
 
GEYSERS. 163 
 
 (6.) After cessation of the eruption there is usually 
 a considerable escape of steam. 
 
 (7.) A quiescent period, generally of indeterminate 
 duration, follows during which the conditions neces- 
 sary for an eruption are reproduced. 
 
 Geyser phenomena have attracted a great deal of 
 scientific attention, and many theories have been ad- 
 vanced to explain them. Passing over for the present 
 the various less important views, attention will first be 
 given to Bunsen's theory, because it is, upon the 
 whole, the most satisfactory explanation yet advanced. 
 This theory was a direct deduction from observations 
 upon the Great Geyser of Icelandj and has been ex- 
 perimentally illustrated by artificial examples. 
 
 The fundamental principle upon which it is based 
 is the well known fact that the temperature of the boil- 
 ing point of water varies with the pressure to which 
 the water is subjected. At the sea level, under the 
 pressure of one atmosphere (fifteen pounds to the 
 square inch), the boiling point is about 212 degrees 
 Fahrenheit. Under a pressure of two atmospheres it 
 is 250 degrees; of three, 275 degrees; of four, 293 
 degrees, and so on. At an altitude like that of the 
 Park plateau, where the atmospheric pressure is much 
 less than at sea level, the normal boiling point is about 
 198 degrees, but the law of variation due to pressure 
 conditions applies exactly as in lower altitudes. 
 
 If water, subjected to great pressure, be heated to a 
 temperature considerably above that of its normal 
 boiling point, and if then the pressure be suddenly re- 
 lieved, it will almost instantaneously be converted 
 into steam; a fact which always operates to enhance 
 the danger from the explosion of steam boilers. Ap- 
 
164 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 plying this principle to the case of an ordinary gey- 
 ser, it will readily be seen that in the long irregular 
 tube descending to great depths there are present the 
 necessary conditions for subjecting the water to great 
 pressure. At the surface the pressure is that of the 
 weight of the atmosphere corresponding to the alti- 
 tude ; at a certain depth below (33 feet at the sea 
 level, but less at higher altitudes) it is twice as 
 great ; at double this depth three times as great, and 
 so on. 
 
 Suppose, now, that there is an interior heat at some 
 point along the geyser tube well below the surface. 
 The boiling point of water in the vicinity of the heat 
 supply will be higher than at the surface in definite 
 relation to its distance down. If the tube be of large 
 diameter and the circulation quite free, the water will 
 never reach this point, for it will rise nearer the top, 
 where the boiling point is lower and will pass off in 
 steam. The spring will thus be simply a boiling or 
 quiescent spring. But if the tube be comparatively 
 small and if the circulation be in any way impeded, 
 the temperature at the source of heat will rise until it 
 reaches a boiling point corresponding to its depth. 
 Steam will result, and will rise through the water, 
 gradually increasing the temperature in the upper 
 portions of the tube. After a time the water through- 
 out the entire tube becomes heated nearly to the boil- 
 ing point and can no longer condense the steam rising 
 from below ; which then rapidly accumulates until its 
 expansive power is great enough to lift the column 
 above and project some of the water from the basin 
 or cone. This lessens the weight of the column 
 and relieves the pressure at every point. In places 
 
GEYSERS. 165 
 
 -where the water had been just below the boiling point, 
 it is now above, and more steam is rapidly produced. 
 This throws out more water, still further lightens the 
 column, and causes the generation of more steam, 
 until finally the whole contents of the tube are ejected 
 with terrific violence. 
 
 From this explanation it is apparent that any thing 
 which impedes the circulation of water in the geyser 
 tube will expedite the eruption. The well-known ef- 
 fect of " soaping geysers " may thus be accounted for. 
 As oil thrown upon waves gives a viscosity to the 
 surface, which greatly moderates their violence, so 
 does the addition of soap or lye make the water of 
 the geyser tube less free to circulate, and thus hasten 
 the conditions precedent to an eruption. 
 
 The apparently contrary process of violently agitat- 
 ing the water of the geyser, as by stirring it with a 
 stick, sometimes produces the same effect ; but this 
 results from the sudden forcing upward of masses of 
 superheated water, instead of allowing them to rise 
 and gradually cool. 
 
 That Bunsen's theory really explains the phenom- 
 ena of geyser action there can be little doubt. It is 
 true that in no single geyser does one find a perfect 
 example of the theory. But it must be remembered 
 that typical conditions probably never exist. The 
 point of application of heat; the mode of application, 
 whether from the heated surface of rocks or from 
 superheated steam issuing into the tube.; the diameter 
 and regularity of the tube; the point of inflow of the 
 cold water : are all matters which influence the erup- 
 tion and determine its character. In the endless 
 variety of conditions in nature one need not wonder 
 
166 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 at the varying results. He should rather wonder that 
 in a single instance nature has produced a combina- 
 of such perfection as is found in Old Faithful, which, 
 for thousand of years has performed its duty with the 
 regularity of clock work. 
 
 There are various other theories, each with some 
 particular merit, which may be briefly referred to. 
 Sir George Mackenzie, who visited Iceland in 1810-11, 
 thought the geyser tube at some point beneath the 
 surface curved to one side and then upward, com- 
 municating with a chamber in the immediate vicinity 
 of the source of heat. The water in this chamber 
 becomes heated above the boiling point, and, expand- 
 ing, forces the water from the chamber into the tube 
 until the chamber is finally emptied to the level of the 
 mouth of the tube. Any further expulsion of water 
 lessens the weight of the column of water above. 
 Bunsen's theory comes into play, and with the ac- 
 cumulated pressure of the steam in the chamber, pro- 
 duces a violent eruption. 
 
 Prof. Comstock, who visited the Park in 1873, 
 thought that there were two chambers, the lower 
 being in contact with the source of heat, and the 
 upper acting as a sort of trap in the geyser tube. 
 After a sufficient force of steam has accumulated in 
 the lower chamber, it ejects the contents of the cham- 
 ber above. 
 
 S. Baring-Gould, who visited Iceland in 1863, ob- 
 served that if a tube be bent into two arms of unequal 
 length, the shorter of which is closed, and if the tube 
 be filled with water and the shorter arm then heated, 
 all the characteristic phenomena of geyser action re- 
 
GEYSERS. 167 
 
 suit, the water being finally ejected with explosive 
 violence from the longer tube. 
 
 Now, it is probable that in nature each of these 
 theories may find illustration, but it must still be 
 acknowledged that in all cases Buusen's theory is the 
 partial explanation, and in many the only adequate 
 one. 
 
 The most superficial examination of the geysers in 
 the Park will disclose two widely different character- 
 istics as regards their external appearance and mode 
 of eruption. On this basis they may be divided into 
 two classes the fountain geysers and the cone 
 geysers. 
 
 In the fountain geyser there is no cone or mound, 
 but in its place a considerable pool which in intervals 
 of rest bears perfect resemblance to the larger qui- 
 escent springs. The eruption generally consists of a 
 succession of prodigious impulses by which vast quan- 
 tities of water are thrown up one after another. 
 There is ordinarily no continuous jet. To geysers of 
 this class, Mackenzie's and Comstock's theories would 
 seem to find closer application than to any others. 
 Noted examples are the Fountain, the Great Foun- 
 tain, the Grand and the Giantess Geysers. 
 
 The cone geysers, on the other hand, have no pool 
 about the crater, and water is not generally visible in 
 the tube. There is always a self-built cone or mound 
 of greater or less prominence, ranging from a broad 
 gently-sloping mound, like that of Old Faithful, to a 
 huge cone like that of the Castle. The eruptions 
 from these geysers usually take the form of a continu- 
 ous jet, and are more in accordance with the theory 
 
168 
 
 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 of Bunsen. Prominent examples are the Giant, the 
 Castle, Old Faithful, the Lone Star, and the Union. 
 
 Terry Enyr. Co. 
 
 J7. S. Geological Survey of the Territories. 
 
 CONE OF THE GIANT GEYSEK. 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 First si-etch erfr made.*Trumbul/. 
 
 CONK op GIANT GEYSER. 
 
 An interesting and singular fact pertaining to this 
 
 * This sketch and a similar one of the Castle Geyser cone and 
 two of the Yellowstone Falls are the very first ever made of these 
 
GEYSERS. 169 
 
 region is that in most cases the springs and geysers 
 have no underground connection with each other. 
 Water in contiguous pools stands at different levels, 
 and powerful geysers play with no apparent effect 
 upon others near by. 
 
 It is another interesting question to know whence 
 comes the water for these geysers and hot springs. 
 Into the hidden caverns of " Old Faithful " flow nearly 
 a millon of gallons per hour. This is a large- stream, 
 but it is a mere trifle compared with the entire outflow 
 of hot water throughout the Park. The subterranean 
 ; passages by which the necessary supply is furnished 
 to all these thousands of springs, certainly constitute 
 the most intricate and extensive system of water-works 
 of which there is any knowledge. 
 
 Xot least wonderful of the features of the great 
 geysers are the marvelous formations which surround 
 them, more exquisitely beautiful than any production of 
 art. They are really much handsomer than those to 
 be found around the ordinary quiescent springs. The 
 falling or the dashing of the hot water seems to be in 
 some way essential to the finest results. To say that 
 these rocky projections simulate cauliflower, sponge, 
 fleeces of wool, flowers or bead- work, conveys but a 
 feeble hint of their marvelous beauty. It is indeed a 
 
 objects.- They were made in 1870 by Walter Trumbull, a member 
 of the Washburn Party, and by Private Charles Moore, one of 
 the escort under Lieutenant Doane. Moore was a man of excel- 
 lent education and considerable culture, and it was a matter of 
 comment among the members of the Expedition that he should 
 be content with the condition of a private soldier. His quaint 
 sketches of the Falls forcibly remind one of the original picture 
 of Niagara made by Father Hennepin in 1697. 
 
170 
 
 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 most interesting fact that nature here produces in 
 stone, by the almost mechanical process of deposition 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories. 
 
 SPECIMENS OF GEYSERITE. 
 
 from cooling water, the identical forms elsewhere pro- 
 duced by the very different processes of animal and 
 vegetable life. 
 
 These formations are all silica and are of flinty 
 hardness. Bunsen, and Prof. Le Conte following him, 
 assert it to be a rule that the presence of silica in the 
 water is essential to the development of a geyser. In 
 one sense this is true, and in another it is not. Should 
 the heated waters find a ready-made tube, like a fissure 
 in solid rock, this would serve for a geyser tube as 
 well as any other. The Monarch Geyser, in Xorris 
 Geyser Basin, seems to have originated in this way. 
 But in the general case, geyser tubes are built up, not 
 
GEYSERS. 171 
 
 found ready made. In such cases silica is an indis- 
 pensable ingredient of the water. A calcareous de- 
 posit, like that at Mammoth Hot Springs, would lack 
 strength to resist the violent strain of an eruption. 
 So it is found to be a fact that silica is the chief mineral 
 ingredient in the water of all important geysers. 
 
172 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 Under this general head will be included all thermal 
 pnenomena of the Park, except the geysers. The 
 term will cover the quiescent springs, the boiling 
 springs, the mud springs, or " paint pots," and the 
 steam vents and fumaroles. 
 
 The quiescent spring seems to stand at the opposite 
 pole from the geyser. The conditions are such that 
 the water nowhere reaches a temperature sensibly 
 above the boiling point. The surface therefore steams 
 quietly away, unruffled except by the passing breeze. 
 
 The great attraction of these springs is in the inimit- 
 able coloring of the water. It is not simply the 
 beautiful green or blue of great depths of clear water. 
 In no ordinary pool can one find all the colors of the 
 spectrum, flitting about, as though seen through a 
 revolving prism. Sometimes there is an irridescent ef- 
 fect similar to that of a film of oil upon water; but 
 there is no oil here. There are doubtless many con- 
 tributing causes that produce these remarkable effects. 
 There is first a great depth of clear water which always 
 presents a beautiful appearance. Then there are the 
 mineral deposits on the sides of the crater, producing 
 indefinite reflection, the effects of which are multiplied 
 by the refractive power of the water. The mineral 
 ingredients dissolved or suspended in the water doubt- 
 less add to the effect. 
 
 The hot springs on the Gardiner River are wholly 
 
HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 173 
 
 different in character from those in any other part of 
 the Park. The water of these springs holds carbo- 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 CLEOPATRA TERRACE. 
 
 Haynes, Photo., $5. Paul. 
 
 nate of lime in solution while most of the others con- 
 tain silica. To this fact must be attributed the pe- 
 culiar character of the formations at Mammoth Hot 
 Springs. Wherever the deposits of springs are cal- 
 careous, the character of the formations is the same, 
 and generally different from those produced by the 
 deposit of silica. They rise in terraces one above an- 
 other, and mold for themselves overhanging bowls of 
 transcendent beauty in form and color. In the tints 
 displayed by the water, however, these springs are not 
 unlike others in the Park. 
 
 The rims about the quiescent springs are often very 
 beautiful, and the observer is astonished to see how 
 they stand up above the general surface of the ground 
 so evenly built that the water has hardly a choice of 
 
174 THK YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 route in flowing away. Tyndall, however, makes this 
 puzzling phenomenon clear. He says : 
 
 " Imagine the case of a simple thermal siliceous 
 spring, whose waters trickle down a gentle incline; 
 the water thus exposed evaporates speedily, and silica 
 is deposited. This deposit gradually elevates the side 
 over which the water passes, until finally the latter 
 has to take another course. The same takes place 
 here; the ground is elevated as before, and the spring 
 has to move forward. Thus it is compelled to travel 
 round and round, discharging its silica and deepening 
 the shaft in which it dwells, until finally, in the course 
 of ages, the simple spring has produced that wonder- 
 ful apparatus which has so long puzzled and aston- 
 ished both the traveler and the philosopher." 
 
 The boiling spring is intermediate between the 
 quiescent spring and the geyser. The circulation is 
 sufficiently free to prevent a great rise of temperature 
 in the lower depths of the tube, and nothing more 
 than a surface ebullition, often extremely violent, re- 
 sults. These springs are generally objects of second- 
 ary interest. They are simply enormous caldrons; 
 any kettle placed over a brisk fire simulates their ac- 
 tion on a small scale. 
 
 The mud springs, or Paint Pots, as they are now al- 
 ways called, are extremely curious phenomena. They 
 are caused by the rising of steam through considera- 
 ble depths of earthy material. The water is just suffi- 
 cient in quantity to keep the material in a plastic con- 
 dition, and the steam operates upon it precisely as it 
 does upon a kettle of thick mush. Generally there 
 are various mineral ingredients, mostly oxides of iron, 
 which impart different colors to different parts of the 
 
HOT SPRINGS. 175 
 
 group. As the steam putts up here and there from 
 the thick mass, it forms the mud into a variety of im- 
 itative figures, prominent among which is that of the 
 lily. These figures immediately sink back into the 
 general mass, only to be formed anew by other puffs 
 of steam. The material is so fine as to be almost im- 
 palpable between the fingers. Lieutenant Doane, how- 
 ever, justly observes that "mortar might well be 
 good after being constantly worked for perhaps ten 
 thousand years." 
 
 Other phenomena very common throughout the 
 Park are steam vents or fumaroles in which there 
 is no water or only a very small quantity. They are 
 not ordinarily of much popular interest, although 
 there are a few remarkable examples. Among these 
 may be mentioned the Black Growler in the Norris 
 Geyser Basin, and Steamboat Spring on the east shore 
 of the Yellowstone Lake. 
 
 The hot spring areas of the Park are both numerous 
 and extensive. They abound throughout the valleys 
 of the Yellowstone, the Madison, and the Snake Riv- 
 ers, and the number of individual springs is several 
 thousand. 
 
176 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 FOSSIL FORESTS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 A region of great popular and scientific interest in 
 the Yellowstone Park, although as yet hardly known 
 to the tourist, owing to the incomplete condition of 
 the road system, is that of the Fossil Forests in the 
 north-east corner of the Park. The facts which have 
 been brought to light concerning the origin of these 
 forests are worthy of particular consideration. 
 
 The trees are found to occur in different planes or 
 horizons of growth, one above another, until the 
 whole series represents a thickness of many hundreds, 
 and possibly thousands, of feet. Going back to the 
 first of these growths, it is found to have been de- 
 stroyed by an outpouring of volcanic material, which 
 partially or wholly submerged it. After the flow had 
 ceased, the ordinary atmospheric and aqueous agen- 
 cies began work, eroding the surface in some places 
 and depositing the products of erosion in others, 
 while vegetation rapidly covered the newly-formed 
 soil. A subsequent flow destroyed this second 
 growth and gave a new horizon, on which the same 
 process was repeated. This continued until there 
 were at least nine, and probably twelve, of these con- 
 secutive growths. 
 
 The lava flows in this particular section do not 
 seem to have been characterized by great heat. They 
 were composed of volcanic agglomerate, in which 
 there was a large admixture of mud and water, with 
 
FOSSIL FORESTS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 177 
 
 
 Terry Jtlnyr. Co. V. S. Geological Survey of the Territories. 
 
 SECTION OF AMETHYST MOUNTAINS. 
 
 sufficient heat to destroy life, but not to char or con- 
 sume its products. The percolation of siliceous waters 
 gradually turned the arboreal vegetation into stone 
 
178 
 
 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 by the process of substitution, and tbus preserved in 
 these silent monuments a record of the events which 
 once transpired there. When the last of the erup- 
 tions had ceased, there existed in this locality a vast 
 depth of volcanic ejectamenta, composed of many 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 JIayntf, Photo., St. Paul. 
 
 PETRIFIED TREES NEAR YANCEY'S. 
 
 layers, on each of which was standing, buried in the 
 layer next above, the trunks of extinct forest growths. 
 After the cessation of volcanic activity, the eroding 
 agencies of the Quarternary Period carved out the 
 valley of the Lamar River through these accumulated 
 flows, and laid bare the remains of their vegetable 
 
FOSSIL FORESTS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 179 
 
 growths. To-day the tourist may see upon the slopes 
 of Specimen Ridge, side by side, the living and the 
 dead, the little conifers of present growth and the 
 gigantic trunks of unknown species which flourished 
 there eons ago. 
 
 Some of the petrifactions are very perfect. Roots, 
 bark, parts showing incipient .decay, worm holes, 
 leaves all are preserved with absolute fidelity. The 
 rings of annual growth may be counted, and these in- 
 dicate for the larger trees an age of not less than five 
 hundred years. Some of the stumps are fully ten feet 
 in diameter. Here and there the ponderous roots 
 stand imbedded in the rock face of the cliff', where 
 erosion has not yet undermined them. In one case, a 
 large tree that had fallen before petrifaction lies 
 partly exposed, both ends being still imbedded in the 
 rock. Some hollow trees show interiors beautifully 
 lined with holocrystalline quartz. 
 
 How long it took each growth to reach maturity ; 
 how long it flourished afterward before destruction ; 
 and how long the several lava flows suspended vegeta- 
 ble growth; are matters largely conjectural. But at 
 the very lowest estimate the time represented by these 
 various accumulations can not be less than five thou- 
 sand years. 
 
 That these early trees were of a different species 
 from those which now flourish there, need not excite 
 surprise, for climatic and other conditions are wholly 
 changed. But an equal difference seems also to have 
 prevailed between the successive growths, the trees of 
 which were not only unlike each other, but nearly all 
 were of species hitherto unknown to science. Fortu- 
 nately the rare perfection of some of the specimens, 
 
1*0 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 particularly of the leaves and bark, have greatly sim- 
 plified their classification, and have given valuable 
 clues to their geologic age. 
 
 The products of these petrifactions in time strewed 
 the surface of the ground with such an abundance of 
 specimens as to give the locality its present name. 
 Most of the lighter specimens, and some of the heavier, 
 have been carried away. 
 
 Besides the general interest of these old forests to 
 the casual observer, they are of great value to science, 
 for probably in no other part of the globe can a sim- 
 ilar chapter of its history be found more clearly re- 
 corded. 
 
FAUNA OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 181 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FAUNA OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 The universal curiosity of people to see what are 
 popularly called wild animals, especially those larger 
 species which never frequent the precincts of civiliza- 
 tion, is a fact of which it is not easy to give a 
 philosophical explanation. In this country the rapid 
 disappearance, amounting almost to annihilation, of 
 the large game is looked upon as a great misfortune ; 
 and in later years there has arisen a fixed purpose 
 that protection shall be secured fur the surviving rem- 
 nants of those species which once with the red man 
 held possession of the continent. The statutes of 
 nearly every state give evidence of the universality of 
 this sentiment. 
 
 As a means of accomplishing such a purpose, no 
 institution promises to be more effectual than the 
 Yellowstone Park. It ought, in this respect, to be a 
 complete realization of Catlin's dream. Its impor- 
 tance as a game preserve was recognized in the Act of 
 Dedication, and has become more and more pronounced 
 as acquaintance with it has increased. 
 
 The Park is fortunately better adapted for this pur- 
 pose than any other tract of similar extent in America. 
 It offers very little to tempt the cupidity of man. Its 
 mineral wealth is buried so deeply under the lava that 
 no miner will ever reach it. Its altitude and climate 
 unfit it for agriculture. Its forests, though excellent 
 for shade, are of little value for lumber. But as a 
 
182 
 
 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 home for the native species of the continent, it pos- 
 sesses unrivaled advantages. These are admirably 
 summed up in the following paragraph from the pen 
 of Prof. Hague : 
 
 " The broad expanse of forest incloses sequestered 
 nooks, and enticing grassy parks, with absolute se- 
 clusion in mountain recesses admirably adapted for the 
 homes of wild animals. It is the great diversity of 
 its physical features, ottering within a restricted area 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 PARK ELK. 
 
 Haynes, Photo., St. Paul. 
 
 all the requirements for animal life, which fits 
 it for the home of big game. Abundant food supply, 
 shelter from wind and weather in winter, cool resorts 
 on the uplands in summer, favorable localities for 
 breeding purposes and the rearing of young, all are 
 found here. The Park supplies what is really needed 
 a zoological reservation where big game may roam un- 
 
FAUNA OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 183 
 
 molested by the intrusion of man, rather than a 
 zoological garden inclosed by fences, and the game fed 
 or sustained more or less by artificial methods." * 
 
 It is a matter of profound regret that the many years 
 of lax administration in the Park to a great degree 
 nullified its purposes as a game preserve. Killing of 
 wild animals was not absolutely prohibited until 1883, 
 and the restricted license previously in force was 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 PARK BUFFALO. 
 
 Haynes, Photo., St. Paul. 
 
 shamefully abused. Some of the larger species were 
 greatly reduced in numbers, while in a few instances 
 they were practically exterminated. In later years, 
 the elk, antelope, deer, bear and beaver, have rapidly 
 regained their former numbers, and there is no reason 
 to apprehend their extinction. There are now no fewer 
 
 * " The Yellowstone National Park as a Game Preserve." See 
 Appendix E. 
 
184 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 than 30,000 elk in the Park. For the buffalo, mountain 
 sheep, and a few other varieties, the prospect is good, 
 though not so flattering. The number of buffalo does 
 not probably exceed two hundred, and the possibility 
 of their early extinction has led the Smithstonian In- 
 stitution to allot a sum of money for the construction 
 of a large inclosure in the Park, where at least a por- 
 tion of the herd can be kept and be thus more care- 
 fully protected. Of the moose, mountain lion, wolver- 
 ine, lynx, wild cat, marten, and otter the perpetuation 
 is more doubtful. They were too much reduced in 
 numbers during the game slaughtering era. The 
 smaller species, such as porcupines, foxes, gophers, 
 squirrels, woodchucks, and the like, flourish in great 
 numbers. 
 
 The tourist often feels a keen disappointment in 
 passing through the Park in that he does not see more 
 game, and he not infrequently expresses positive doubts 
 of its existence. He should remember, however, that 
 it is the nature of wild game to shun the haunts of 
 man. If he will remain for some time in the Park 
 and will frequent those regions remote from the tour- 
 ists routes he will see game in plenty. In one im- 
 portant instance he rarely goes away disappointed. 
 Bruin generally accommodates him. The fine in- 
 stincts of that intelligent brute have shown him that 
 it is much easier to get a living from the refuse 
 about the hotels than to forage for it in the wilds 
 of parsimonious nature. Nightfall, therefore, always 
 brings him about to the great delight of the game- 
 seeking tourist. The incidents of each season to 
 which these bears unwittingly give rise* are among the 
 amusing features of tourist life in that region. 
 
FAUNA OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 185 
 
 The herbivorous game generally seek the seclusion 
 of the hills in summer, but the deep snows of winter 
 will not permit them to remain there. At that season 
 they descend to the valleys, of which the most im- 
 portant are the Hayden, the Junction, and the Pelican 
 Valleys, and those about the headwaters of the Snake 
 River. The preservation of these tracts as a free 
 winter pasturage is absolutely essential to the per- 
 petuity of game in the Yellowstone Park. 
 
 Although an ornithologist, in passing through the 
 Park, would report a list of native birds so extensive 
 as to lead one to think that they abound in great 
 numbers, there is really a noticeable absence of the 
 winged tribes. There are birds, of course, but in 
 numbers, variety, and beauty not to be compared 
 with those in lower altitudes. The only varieties that 
 would attract attention from any but specialists are 
 the larger birds, which are often quite plentiful about 
 the lakes. There are great numbers of pelicans, gulls, 
 fish-hawks, and cranes, with now and then a wild 
 swan. Eagles are not uncommon, while hawks, wood- 
 peckers, and robins are frequently seen. The sharp- 
 tailed or willow grouse is common, and in the fall of 
 the year astonishing numbers of wild geese and ducks 
 frequent the marshes. There are many other varieties, 
 conspicuous mainly for their paucity of numbers. 
 
 Piscatorially speaking, the Yellowstone National 
 Park has no rival as a paradise for the angler. The 
 generous gift of nature and the admirable work of 
 the United States Fish Commission, supplemented by 
 the wise protection of the government, leave nothingto 
 be desired by even the most devout follower of Isaak 
 Walton. 
 
186 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Not all the streams of the Park were originally 
 stocked with fish. Where the waters leave the great 
 volcanic plateau and fall to the underlying forma- 
 tions, the cataracts form impassable barriers to the 
 ascent of fish. In the lower courses of all the 
 streams there were native trout, but above the falls, 
 with one exception, there were none. The exception 
 of the Yellowstone River and Lake is a most interest- 
 ing one. Why the Falls of the Yellowstone, the 
 highest and most impassable of all, should apparently 
 have proven no barrier, is at first a puzzling question. 
 But the solution is to be found in Two-Ocean Pass. 
 Across this remarkable divide fish may easily make 
 their way, and the Yellowstone Lake is unquestion- 
 ably stocked from this direction. We thus have an 
 example, probably without parallel, of an extensive 
 body of water on the Atlantic slope stocked by nature 
 with fish from the Pacific. 
 
 The trout of the Yellowstone Lake are to some ex- 
 tent infected with a disease which renders them unfit 
 for eating. In earlier times particularly, this condi- 
 tion was generally prevalent. But more recently the 
 disease seems to be disappearing, and in time it will 
 probably die out altogether. 
 
 In 1889 and 1890, the United States Fish Commis- 
 sion undertook to stock all the fishless streams in the 
 Park, and planted about 83,000 yearling trout in the 
 various streams and lakes. The varieties were Brook, 
 Lake, Lock Leven, and Von Behr trout. Recent ex- 
 amination of these plants shows that all have taken 
 decisive root, and that within a few years there will 
 not be a hidden stream or lake in the Park which will 
 be without its attractions for the sportsman. 
 
FLORA OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 187 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 FLORA OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 The most conspicuous feature of the Park flora is 
 the wide extent of forest growth which covers some 
 eighty-four per cent of its area. This is the more no- 
 ticeable because the surrounding country below the 
 mountains is practically treeless. The Park forests 
 consist almost exclusively of pine and fir. The trees 
 are generally tall and slender and of little use for 
 lumber. They are usually unattractive in appearance, 
 although in some places among the mountains the 
 spruce and fir attain a size, form and hue of foliage 
 that are exceedingly beautiful. 
 
 Among the several species may be noted the fol- 
 lowing : 
 
 Black pine (Pinus Murrayana) so called from the 
 dark hue of its foliage when seen in dense bodies. 
 
 Bed fir (Pseudotsuga Doaglasii) the largest variety 
 in the Park, sometimes attaining a diameter of five 
 feet. 
 
 Balsam (Abies subalpin.a). It flourishes near the 
 snow fields and is the beauty of the forest. 
 
 Spruce (Pinus Engdmanni). Like the preceding it 
 flourishes at high altitudes. It is tall and slender, 
 and is good for lumber. 
 
 Red cedar (Janiperus mrginiana) is found to a limited 
 extent. 
 
 Poplar or aspen (Populus tremuloides') flourishes 
 among the sheltered foothills. 
 
188 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Dwarf maple is occasionally found. 
 
 Willow thickets abound in great abundance. 
 
 Of these varieties the first is found more abundantly 
 than all the others combined. In many places it has 
 fallen down and strews the country to such an extent 
 as to be absolutely impassable on horseback. There is 
 very little timber of marketable value, and at first 
 thought it would seem that nature has here lavished 
 her energies in a most wasteful manner. 
 
 But the great value of these forest growths, is their 
 agency in the conservation of a water supply for the 
 surrounding country. A glance at the map will show 
 that the Park is in the midst of a vast arid region ex- 
 tending far into the surrounding states. The recla- 
 mation of these desert wastes, and their conversion 
 into productive lands, can be accomplished by irriga- 
 tion alone, and for this purpose the abundant streams 
 which descend from the mountains are the indispensa- 
 ble water supply. 
 
 From the summit of the Grand Teton, the range of 
 vision covers probably the most remarkable group of 
 river sources upon the earth. To the north rises the 
 Missouri which flows three thousand miles through 
 
 O 
 
 Montana, the Dakotas, Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas and 
 Missouri. To the east rises the Yellowstone, which, 
 after leaving the Park, flows four hundred miles 
 through southern and eastern Montana until it unites 
 with the Missouri. From the eastern foot-hills of 
 the Absaroka and Shoshone Ranges flow the Wind 
 and Big Horn Rivers through the extensive valleys of 
 the same names in Wyoming and Montana. South- 
 wardly, across the Wind River Range rises the Platte 
 which flows eastward eight hundred miles through 
 
FLORA OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 189 
 
 Wyoming and Nebraska. From the west flank of 
 these mountains issue the tributaries of the Green 
 River (afterward the Colorado) which flows through 
 Wyoming, Utah and Arizona into the Gulf of Cali- 
 fornia. Finally, interlaced with the sources of the 
 Yellowstone, and the Missouri, are those of the Snake 
 River which flows through Wyoming, Idaho and Wash- 
 ington into the Columbia, and thus reaches the Pacific. 
 
 Not only do these streams rise in this limited area ; 
 they derive from it most of their waters. In the arid 
 lowlands they receive but slight accessions, and often 
 actually shrink under evaporation. It is therefore 
 from a relatively small tract of country that the 
 future water supply must come for portions of ten 
 states in the great arid belt of the west. 
 
 The conditions which nature has established around 
 this remarkable fountain-head are admirably adapted 
 for the creation and maintenance of an unlimited wa- 
 ter supply. Over an area of more than 5,000 square 
 miles there prevails an average altitude of perhaps 
 7,500 feet ; sufficient to insure enormous annual snow- 
 falls, but not so great as to prevent their complete 
 melting in summer. But, that they may not melt too 
 rapidly, the whole region is covered with a thick for- 
 est growth cutting ofl* the intense rays of the summer 
 sun, and covering the ground with a vegetable mold 
 through whieh the surface waters filter but slowly. 
 It is a conservative estimate, based upon observations 
 in connection with road work in the Park, that these 
 forests prolong the melting of the snows from four to 
 six weeks. This condition greatly lessens the liability 
 to sudden floods, and maintains a generous supply of 
 water far into the summer. 
 
190 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 It has been estimated* that from the Park alone, at 
 low water, there flows per second 4,000 cubic feet of 
 water. If the time ever conies when this supply is 
 so far used as to threaten exhaustion, there will be 
 found in the basin of Yellowstone Lake the most 
 perfect facilities in the world for the construction of 
 an artificial reservoir of almost limitless capacity at a 
 comparatively insignificant cost. A dam could be 
 thrown across the gorge at the first rapids in the 
 Yellowstone below the Lake, and without injuring 
 the natural condition of that region, could easily be 
 made to quadruple the present capacity of the Lake. 
 
 The Park with its contiguous area thus presents 
 magnificent possibilities in the development of the 
 surrounding country possibilities of which its found- 
 ers little dreamed, but which they unconsciously fore- 
 shadowed when they declared that this region should 
 be forever set apart for the " benefit " as well as for 
 the " enjoyment " of the people. 
 
 Besides its wealth of trees, the Park produces other 
 interesting flora. Interspersed among the forests and 
 ornamenting the open glades are flowers and shrubs 
 in endless profusion. We quote from the description 
 of one of the early visitors : 
 
 " The choke-cherry, the goose-berry, the buffalo- 
 berry, and black and red currants, are found along 
 the streams and in moist places of the middle and 
 lower altitudes. The meadows and hill-sides are 
 spangled with bright-colored flowers, among which 
 may be noted the bee-larkspur, the columbine, the 
 harebell, the lupine, the evening primrose, the aster, 
 
 By Dr. William Hallock, United States Geological Survey. 
 
FLORA OP THE YELLOWSTONE. 191 
 
 the painted cup, the gentian, and various kinds of 
 euphorbia. It is not uncommon to find daises, but- 
 tercups, forget-me-nots, white-ground phlox, and other 
 field flowers flourishing in profusion near the melting 
 snow banks during the month of August. Scarcely 
 a night throughout the year passes without frost, even 
 though the temperature by day is over 80 F., so that all 
 forms of vegetation in the Park grow and bloom un- 
 der somewhat unusual conditions. Indeed, when ice 
 forms in the water-pails of camping parties during 
 the night, as often happens, and the petals of the 
 flowers become crisp with frost ; even then the blooms 
 are not harmed, but thaw out bright and fresh when 
 the hot sun touches them." 
 
 The flowers form a most attractive feature of the 
 Park, and give an interesting study of the way in 
 which altitude and temperature affect well known 
 varieties. It is only after a second look that one can 
 trace in the mountain dandelion, huckleberry, and 
 other species a resemblance to those of lower altitudes. 
 The extreme shortness of the season causes vegeta- 
 tion to mature quickly, and before the flush of spring 
 has disappeared from the leaves the palor of autumn 
 makes its appearance. 
 
 The mountain grasses are generally abundant in 
 the open country and even in many places among the 
 forests. The writer just quoted says: 
 
 "The pasturage on the many open spaces is excellent, 
 the mountain meadows being covered with a mat of 
 nutritious grasses. The predominating variety is the 
 bunch grass, upon which the horses of tourists gen- 
 erally subsist, keeping in good condition without the 
 need of oats. Among other kinds, are the blue joint, 
 
192 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 fescue, and beard grasses, as well as Alpine timothy r 
 all of which grow luxuriantly." 
 
 The early autumns tinge the foliage of the willow 
 parks and other groups of shrubbery with a wealth 
 of color not often seen elsewhere. Even the frost on 
 the grass upon sharp mornings seems to have a pecu- 
 liar beauty, and one may trace terrestrial rainbows in 
 all the perfection of those set in the sky. 
 
THE PARK IN WINTER. 193 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE PARK IN WINTER. 
 
 From the end of September to the end of May the 
 Park is closed to the tourist; that is, the hotels do not 
 receive guests, and camping is too precarious to be at- 
 tempted. It is generally possible, however, to get 
 .into the Park as late as the middle or end of Novem- 
 ber, very rarely as late as Christmas. In May, the 
 snowfalls are light, but the accumulations of the pre- 
 vious winter render traveling out of the question. 
 With great difficulty the hotel company reaches its 
 nearest hotels as early as May 16. Some of the roads 
 remain impassable fully a month later. 
 
 What the fall of snow is in the upper Park has 
 never been determined ; but at Mammoth Hot Springs, 
 altitude 6,200 feet, an average for six years, from 
 November to April inclusive, is ten feet per year, 
 with a maximum of fifteen feet and a minimum of 
 five. But on the Park Plateau, 1,000 to 1,500 feet 
 higher, the fall is certainly much greater. No doubt 
 its light depth aggregates twenty feet. The weight 
 of this snow often destroys the railing of bridges and 
 injures the buildings of the Park. 
 
 The drifts accumulate in phenomenal magnitude. 
 No matter how deep a ravine may be, the wind will 
 pile the snow up in it until it is level with the sur- 
 rounding country. Some of these drifts on the 
 mountain sides are hundreds of feet deep and never 
 entirely melt away. Even on the general plateau 
 
194 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 they last until the middle of July. The Canon 
 Hotel is almost buried every winter. The snow 
 actually reaches the second story windows, and the 
 drift behind the hotel would last throughout the 
 summer were its melting not facilitated by cutting it 
 in pieces with shovels. It verily seems that all the 
 conditions of climate here conspire to make this re- 
 gion one of the snowiest in the world. 
 
 Of course, general access to the Park under such 
 conditions is wholly out of the question. Only on 
 snow-shoes is it possible at all. The hotel company 
 has a watchman at each of its buildings, who drags 
 out a lonely existence through the two hundred days 
 from November to May. He can talk over the tele- 
 phone line with Mammoth Hot Springs, and at long 
 intervals he receives a call, and perhaps mail, from 
 " Telephone Pete," who travels the line to keep it in 
 order. In some places, also, small squads of soldiers 
 are stationed for the winter. 
 
 The art of traveling by snow-shoe is a thoroughly 
 interesting one, notwithstanding the fact that it is 
 about the most difficult method of travel known and 
 is rarely resorted to except from sheer necessity. 
 
 The instrument used in the Park for this purpose is 
 called a ski (pronounced skee). It is a long slender 
 strip of wood ash, Norway pine, or hickory some 
 twelve feet long, four or five inches wide, and just 
 thick enough to give needed strength. About mid- 
 way of its length is a strap through which the toe is 
 slipped and by which the foot pulls the ski along. 
 The bearing surface of the two skis is about eight 
 square feet, and holds the weight of the body even in 
 soft snow without sinking more than a few inches. 
 
THE PARK IN WINTER. 195 
 
 The bottom surface is polished smooth and then 
 rubbed with a mixture of tallow and beeswax to 
 make it free from friction. A pole is an important 
 accompaniment, aiding to slide the traveler along and 
 steady him on the skis. It also serves as a brake in 
 descending steep hills, the traveler sitting astride it 
 and bearing the rear end into the snow. 
 
 Down hill work is indeed glorious. No express 
 train can rival the ski for speed. Its only drawback is 
 danger of accident. On level country ski traveling is 
 simply walking on a board walk, except that the pe- 
 destrian carries the board with him, and makes and 
 unmakes the road as fast as he goes. This is hard 
 enough, especially if the snow is sticky, but when 
 it comes to up hill traveling it is a truly laborious 
 matter. If the hill is steep, there is danger of losing 
 one's grip on the snow and sliding backward down 
 the hill. Where the ascent is too steep to work up by 
 direct forward movement, "corduroying" is resorted 
 
 f CD 
 
 to. The traveler works up sidewise, stepping up a 
 foot or so with the upper ski and following with the 
 lower. Generally this sidewise movement is combined 
 with a slight forward movement, the skis being pointed 
 up hill at as steep an inclination as they will hold. 
 
 The dress and equipment of the snow-shoe traveler 
 are reduced to a minimum consistent with protection 
 from the climate. This protection is really needed 
 only at camping places, for the extraordinary exertion 
 of traveling keeps the body in a continuous glow of 
 warmth. Generally, warm woolen underwear, with can- 
 vas surface garments to keep out the wind and to 
 shed snow, are the essential features of the dress. No 
 overcoat is worn, but a tightly drawn belt takes its 
 
190 
 
 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 place. The feet are the weak point. "Natural wool 
 socks, then a pair of Indian moccasins, then a pair 
 of heavy gray army socks, then Arctic overshoes and 
 leggings," is the description of an equipment actually 
 used. A broad hat is frequently worn to keep snow 
 out of the neck, and colored glasses are indispensable 
 to prevent snow blindness. 
 
 Baggage is limited to the strictest necessities, and is 
 so packed that it will rest uniformly on the back from 
 the shoulders to the hips. 
 
 No eating of snow or drinking of water can be 
 safely indulged in while en route. The traveler must 
 go strictly " dry " between meals. 
 
 Of course traveling of this sort is attended with 
 much peril. A man must rely wholly on himself. No 
 wagon or saddle is available if he is injured or sick. 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 Haynes, Photo., St. Paul. 
 
 GEYSER BASINS IN WINTER. 
 
 Heavy storms may blind him and cause him to lose 
 his way. In short, a snowshoe trip through the Park 
 
THE PARK IN WINTER. 197 
 
 is an undertaking which requires a vigorous physique, 
 a determined will, and a good fund of courage. Very 
 few, except those whose duty has required it, have 
 ever made the attempt. But it is the unanimous ver- 
 dict of those who have, that, glorious as the Park is 
 in summer, it is even more glorious in winter. One 
 can readily understand this to be so. Evergreen for- 
 ests never appear to better advantage than when laden 
 with snow. Ice formations always enhance the beauty 
 of waterfalls.* The rolling open valleys of the Park 
 must be doubly beautiful when robed in drifted snow. 
 It is a pity that this silvery landscape should forever 
 remain excluded from the general view. 
 
 * For picture of Grand Canon in winter, see p. 257. 
 
198 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE PARK AS A HEALTH RESORT. 
 
 The climate of the Yellowstone National Park, to 
 any one with a fair reserve of health, is of the most 
 beneficial kind. The general public will be interested 
 in the subject only as it relates to that season when it 
 is possible to visit the Park. 
 
 For the six months beginning with May, the aver- 
 age temperature will not vary much from the follow- 
 ing figures, Fahrenheit : 
 
 Maximum. Minimum. Mean. 
 
 May 77 25 49 
 
 June 87 30 55 
 
 July 91 36 64 
 
 August 90 36 61 
 
 September 85 25 54 
 
 October 72 18 41 
 
 These temperatures are for Mammoth Hot Springs. 
 For the Park Plateau they should be diminished by 
 not less than ten degrees. No month of the year in 
 that region passes without ice-forming frosts. It will 
 be seen that during June, July, August, and Septem- 
 ber, the thermometer makes excursions to the neigh- 
 borhood of the nineties. This, however, is only in 
 the middle of the day, and is due to the direct in- 
 tensity of the sun's rays. No such heat pervades the 
 general atmosphere. As soon as the sun is near set- 
 ting, the temperature falls rapidly. The night tem- 
 perature rarely gets above 55 or 60, and averages 
 
THE PARK AS A HEALTH RESORT. 199 
 
 scarcely half as much. The Park is noted for its de- 
 lightful sleep-giving qualities, which constitute no 
 small part of its claim as a'health resort. 
 
 Summer in the Park is comparatively short. It 
 may not be strictly true that " the Park has only three 
 seasons, July, August, and "Winter," but it is true 
 that July and August are the only two months free 
 from the ordinary characteristics of winter. Snows 
 are frequent in June and September, while May and 
 October are well on the snowy side of the year. July 
 and August are the Park summer. The weather is 
 settled. The air is pure and bracing and not too 
 cold. The long imprisoned vegetation bursts sud- 
 denly into full life and beauty, and in a short period 
 take place all the changes which require months in 
 lower altitudes. 
 
 That there is life and health in that summer atmos- 
 phere, no one who has breathed it will deny. At the 
 same time, as has already been hinted, it is healthful 
 only for those who have some foundation to build 
 upon. Persons suffering from any form of heart 
 disease or advanced pulmonary trouble, or those 
 greatly reduced in strength from any cause, would 
 better stay away. The altitude and sharp air might 
 prove too severe. 
 
 A matter which has naturally attracted considerable 
 inquiry is the therapeutic value of the mineral springs 
 of the Park. The superstitious faith in the efficacy 
 of mineral waters to restore health, which has char- 
 acterized mankind in all ages, caused the physically 
 afflicted to hail the discovery of that region as the 
 promised fountain of new life. The first explorers to 
 .ascend the Gardiner in 1871 found " numbers of in- 
 
200 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 valids" encamped on its banks, where the hot waters 
 from Mammoth Hot Springs enter the stream ; and it 
 is recorded that " they were most emphatic in their 
 favorable expressions in regard to their sanitary 
 effects." 
 
 But this impression was very evanescent. No one 
 now goes to the Park because of its mineral waters. 
 Nevertheless, it would be wholly premature to assume, 
 that there is no medicinal virtue in them. Certainly 
 there is in the Park almost every variety of mineral 
 spring; there are abundant and luxurious waters for 
 bathing ; and it is not at all improbable that the op- 
 portunities afforded in this region may yet be utilized 
 to the great advantage of the public. 
 
 But for health-giving qualities, the Park will never 
 be dependent on its mineral waters. Its true value 
 lies in other and more potent influences. The pure 
 water of its snow-fed streams, the exhilarating atmos- 
 phere, the bracing effect of altitude, the wholesome 
 fatigue of daily rambles over the rough, mountainous 
 country, the fragrant odor of the pine boughs which 
 every-where pervades the atmosphere, and, above all, 
 the beautiful and varied scenery, which exalts the 
 mind and diverts the attention from cares that are 
 too often the real cause of physical ills these are the 
 true virtues of the Yellowstone Park as a health 
 resort. 
 
ROADS, HOTELS, TRANSPORTATION. 201 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 ROADS, HOTELS, TRANSPORTATION. 
 
 The Park, as is well known, is a very extensive 
 tract of country, and its various points of interest are 
 widely separated from each other. The question of 
 ways and means for getting comfortably through it is 
 an all-important one. If the roads are bad, the hotels 
 ill-kept, or the transportation uncomfortable, no 
 amount of grandeur of natural scenery can compen- 
 sate for these defects. In making a tour of the Park, 
 the visitor travels not less than 150 miles, sometimes 
 considerably more, and remains in the Park about 
 one week. He is thus quite at the mercy of those 
 who have the management .and control of those mat- 
 ters which form the subject of this chapter. 
 
 The road system of the Park, when completed, will 
 comprise a belt line, connecting the principal centers 
 of interest ; approaches, by which access may be had to 
 the Park from different directions; side roads, leading 
 from the main route to isolated points of interest ; 
 and trails, by which pack outfits can reach desired 
 points to which regular roads will never be built. 
 
 The belt line includes Mammoth Hot Springs, 
 Morris Geyser Basin, Lower Geyser Basin, Upper 
 Geyser Basin, the Yellowstone Lake, the Grand 
 Canon, and Junction Valley. A cross-road passes 
 from JsTorris to the Grand Cafion. 
 
 The approaches are not all yet selected, but in time 
 there will be at least one on each side of the Park. 
 
202 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Trails are important adjuncts of the Park road sys- 
 tem. They were long ago selected and opened up, 
 and they are of great importance in patroling the 
 Park. They are also much used by those tourists 
 who remain for a considerable time. 
 
 The mileage of the completed road system will be 
 about as follows : 
 
 Belt line 163 miles. 
 
 Approaches '. 105 " 
 
 Side roads... 22 " 
 
 Total mileage of Park system, exclusive of trails.. 290 " 
 
 In regard to construction, it is hardly necessary to 
 say that nothing but the best macadamized roads 
 should be built. The inherent difficulties of the work 
 are great. The soil in many places is of the most 
 wretched character. The country is exceedingly 
 rough. The streams are almost without number. 
 The snow lies on some of the roads until the mi'ddle 
 of June. The mud in the wet season is bad, and the 
 dust of the dry season is worse. The soft volcanic 
 rocks, which so generally prevail, make poor road 
 metal. But all these difficulties can be overcome, if 
 Congress will but provide for a systematic completion 
 of the project. At present, the annual allowance is 
 too small to promise any thing like good work, and it 
 will be many years before the hopes of the govern- 
 ment engineers in the matter will be realized. t 
 
 The work itself is as attractive as ever falls to the 
 lot of the road engineer, and it is doubtful if another 
 opportunity exists to develop a road system which, if 
 properly done, will reflect so much credit upon the 
 
ROADS, HOTELS, TRANSPORTATION 203 
 
 government building it. It is used by visitors from 
 all lands. It passes through every variety of scenery. 
 It presents every known problem of road engineering. 
 In short, it combines all the elements to make it, 
 when complete, one of the noted highways of the 
 world. 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. Gandy. 
 
 KINGMAN PASS. (Showing roadway along side of cliff.) 
 
 It is not impossible that the tourist may yet be car- 
 oied by boat from the west shore of the Lake to near 
 the head of the Falls, nor that a bridge worthy of its 
 surroundings an arch of the native rock so studied 
 as to simulate a natural bridge will span the river 
 near the Upper Falls and give access to the many 
 splendid views from the right bank of the Grand 
 Cafion. 
 
 The tourist transportation of the Park is done 
 mostly by coach, ordinarily with four horses each. 
 
204 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Surreys and saddle horses are also provided when de- 
 sired. The present system is the result of long de- 
 velopment, and is very satisfactory. With proper 
 roads, it would be all that could be desired. 
 
 Electric transportation in the Park has often been 
 suggested, but there are certain grave objections, to 
 be discussed in a later chapter, which will probably 
 always prevent its introduction. 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. Jfayntf, Phnto., St. Paul. 
 
 YELLOWSTONE PARK COACH. 
 
 When the hotel system of the Park is complete, 
 there will be no fewer than seven good houses and 
 three lunch stations along the belt line and approaches. 
 The hotels will be at Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris 
 Geyser Basin, Lower Geyser Basin, Upper Geyser 
 Basin, Yellowstone Lake, Grand Canon, and Junction 
 Valley. The present management of the hotels has 
 developed into a very efficient system. It is con- 
 ducted by a single company whose business head- 
 
ROADS, HOTELS, TRANSPORTATION. 205 
 
 quarters is at Mammoth Hot Springs, from which 
 point all supplies are shipped. A telegraph line con- 
 nects it with points in the interior and with the out- 
 side world. The manager of each hotel knows in 
 advance the number of guests he must provide for, 
 and the convenience of the tourist is thus carefully 
 arranged beforehand. With a reasonable extension 
 and development of the present system, the Park will 
 be admirably equipped in this respect. 
 
 Besides the regular tourists those who make the 
 usual trip, stopping at the hotels there are hundreds 
 who pass through the Park with camping outfits. 
 During the months of July and August and early 
 September, this is by no means an undesirable method. 
 It is less comfortable, to be sure, than the ordinary 
 method, but at the same time it is less expensive and 
 more independent. In the latter part of August, the 
 Park fairly swarms with these camping parties. They 
 give the authorities plenty to do, for the danger of 
 forest conflagrations from their camp fires is very 
 great. 
 
200 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 ADMINISTRATION OP THE PARK. 
 
 The administration of the Park is assigned by law 
 to the Secretary of the Interior, who delegates his au- 
 thority to a local Superintendent. By statute, also, 
 the Secretary of the Interior is authorized to call 
 upon the Secretary of War for such details of troops 
 as may be necessary to protect the Park. Owing to 
 the failure of Congress to provide for a civilian Su- 
 perintendent and police force, since 1886, the Secre- 
 tary of the Interior has found it necessary to avail 
 himself of this second statute, so that the present 
 working of the Park administration is on this wise : 
 
 An army officer, commanding the troops of the 
 Park, is the representative of the Secretary of the In- 
 terior, and is called the Acting Superintendent of the 
 Park, on the assumption that the old regime of civil- 
 ian Superintendents is only temporarily suspended. 
 The Superintendent is charged with the enforcement 
 of the rules and regulations provided for the govern- 
 ment of the Park. As to all such matters, he receives 
 his instructions direct from the Secretary of the Inte- 
 rior, and he annually submits to that official a report 
 upon the condition of the Park. For a police force, 
 he has two troops of cavalry, which he stations 
 throughout the Park as necessity requires. He has 
 also one civilian scout, paid for from the appropria- 
 tion for the army, whose duty it is to patrol the 5,000' 
 
ADMINISTRATION OF THE PARK. 207 
 
 square miles, more or less, in the original reservation 
 and the forest reserve ! * 
 
 The specific duties which form the burden of the 
 Superintendent's work are : 
 
 1. To see that all leases and privileges granted by 
 the Secretary of the Interior to private parties are 
 strictly observed, and that all business conducted in 
 the Park is in pursuance of government authority 
 and in accordance with specific conditions and limita- 
 tions. 
 
 2. The protection of the Park from vandalism. 
 This is a very important matter. The pardonable de- 
 sire to carry off specimens from the beautiful forma- 
 tions, and the unpardonable craze to cover them with 
 individual names, would, if unrestrained, soon quite 
 destroy what nature, through long ages, has so labori- 
 ously produced. 
 
 3. The protection of game. All around the Park 
 are hordes of law-breakers, who let pass no oppor- 
 tunity to destroy the surviving species. To avert this 
 calamity requires the utmost vigilance of the Park 
 police. 
 
 4. The preservation of forests. This has always 
 been the most onerous and trying duty of Park 
 officials. The importance of the forests is so far- 
 reaching that their destruction would be a public 
 calamity. No exertion can be considered too great 
 which may prevent it. 
 
 5. The construction of roads and bridges in the 
 Park. 
 
 * A portion of the latest appropriation for the Park is author- 
 ized to be expended in the employment of additional scouts. 
 This policy ought to be continued. 
 
208 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 
 
 Other functions which the Superintendent fills are 
 the social duties of his position, which at certain sea- 
 sons exact much of his attention. Official visitors de- 
 pend upon him entirely for pilotage through the Park. 
 Private parties bring letters soliciting favors, and on 
 the whole he finds his time well occupied with these 
 pleasant, though sometimes onerous, duties. 
 
 The office building of the Superintendent, who is 
 also commanding officer of Fort Yellowstone, is at 
 Mammoth Hot Springs. A pretty little garrison is 
 built upon the white formation opposite the hotel, and 
 in winter, the whole military force, except small de- 
 tachments in various places, is gathered at that point. 
 
 At Mammoth Hot Springs are also located the post- 
 office and jail, and at this point the judicial officers 
 of the Park hold court to try offenses against the 
 Park statutes and regulations. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 209 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 Preliminary. 
 
 In the following description there will be men- 
 tioned in succinct outline all the notable features of 
 interest in the Yellowstone National Park. For more 
 detailed information, the reader is referred to the list 
 of names in Appendix "A." 
 
 The necessary limit of space forbids any thing like 
 extended description, even if the inherent difficulties 
 of such a task would permit. Captain Ludlow has 
 well stated the nature of these difficulties : 
 
 " The Park scenery, as a whole," he says, " is too 
 grand, its scope too immense, its details too varied 
 and minute, to admit of adequate description, save by 
 some great writer, who, with mind and pen equally 
 trained, can seize upon the salient points, and, with 
 just discrimination, throw into proper relief the varied 
 features of mingled grandeur, wonder, and beauty." 
 
 Of the many who have attempted, with pen or pen- 
 oil, to reproduce the wonders of the Yellowstone, no 
 one has yet completely satisfied these important re- 
 quirements. The writer, for his part, will modestly 
 decline any such undertaking, and, like that pioneer 
 explorer, Folsom, will confine his descriptions " to 
 the bare facts." He will, however, occasionally call to 
 aid those who have seen and written of these won- 
 ders. To the early explorers, in particular, who en- 
 tered this region before it became generally known, 
 
210 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 its strange phenomena appealed with an imaginative 
 force which the guide-book tourist of to-day cat* 
 hardly realize. This may account for the fact that 
 some of these explorers, who have never, before or 
 since, put pen to paper with any literary purpose in 
 view, have left in their narratives strokes of word 
 painting which the most gifted writer would find it 
 difficult to excel. 
 
 The season selected for the tour will be the early 
 days of July. The rain and snow and chilly air, not 
 uncommon in June, are gone. The drought and 
 smoke of August and September are still remote. 
 Even mosquitoes, so amazingly plentiful at certain 
 seasons (Langford found them on the very summit of 
 the Grand Teton), have not yet made their appear- 
 ance. It is late enough, however, to call forth in their 
 richest glory the magnificent profusion of flowers 
 which every- where abound in the Park. The air is at 
 its best, full of life and energy, and so clear that it con- 
 founds distances and gives to objects, though far away, 
 a distinctness quite unknown in lower altitudes. The 
 skies, as they appear at this season, surpass the sunny 
 skies of Italy, and the tourist will find in their em- 
 pyreal depths a beauty and fascination forever lack- 
 ing in the dingy air of civilization. In short, the 
 open air stage trips through that rich mountain at- 
 mosphere will form one of the most attractive and 
 invigorating features of the tour. 
 
 Without further preliminary, the r6le of guide will 
 now be assumed, and the tourist will be conducted 
 through the wonders of this celebrated country, fol- 
 lowing, over most of the distance, the present general 
 route. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 211 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 A TOUR OF THE PARKi 
 
 North Boundary to Mammoth Hot Springs. 
 
 Distance five miles. The road for most of the way 
 lies in the valley of the Gardiner. The principal 
 points of interest en route are : 
 
 The Junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner Ewers 
 which determines the north boundary of the Park. It 
 lies in the State of Montana, the state line being two 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 GARDINER RIVER. 
 
 Gandy. 
 
 miles further south. The old prospector's route bore 
 oft' at this point and kept up the valley of the Yellow- 
 
212 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 stone. Folsom took this route in 1869 ; so did the 
 Wasburn party in 1870. Hayden and Barlow in 1871 
 kept along the Gardiner and thus saw the Mammoth 
 Hot Springs. 
 
 The Gardiner Canon is a precipitous valley of loose 
 gray walls suggestive of danger from falling rocks. 
 The nests of fish-hawks here and there crown de- 
 tached pinnacles. The most striking feature of the 
 canon is the river, a typical mountain torrent of such 
 rapid fall over its rocky bed that it is a continuous 
 succession of foaming cascades. 
 
 Some four miles up the river, at the point where the 
 road leaves it, the tourist gets his first sight of any 
 indication of subterranean heat. This is a large 
 stream of hot water, in early times called the Boiling 
 River, issuing from an opening in the rocks and 
 emptying directly into the river. It is formed of the 
 collected waters of Mammoth Hot Springs which find 
 their way to this point through underground passages. 
 It was here that "numbers of invalids" were en- 
 camped when Hayden and Barlow saw the spot in 
 1871. 
 
 From the last crossing of the Gardiner a winding 
 road, which rises 600 feet in its length of one mile, 
 brings the tourist to the world-renowned Mammoth 
 Hot Springs, and to the administrative and business 
 headquarters of the Park. 
 
 First in importance, among the many points of in- 
 terest accessible from this locality, are the Hot Springs 
 Terraces. These have been built one upon another 
 until the present active portion constitutes a hill rising 
 300 feet above the site of the Mammoth Hot Springs 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 213 
 
 Hotel. The formation about these springs, it will be 
 remembered, is calcareous, and to this fact is due its 
 distinctive character, so different from the silica for- 
 mations which prevail nearly every-where else in the 
 Park. The overhanging bowls which these deposits 
 build up are among the finest specimens of Nature's 
 work in the world, while the water which fills them 
 is of that peculiar beauty to be found only in thermal 
 springs. Speaking of this feature Dr. Hayden says : 
 " The wonderful transparency of the water sur- 
 passes any thing of the kind I have ever seen in any 
 
 U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories. 
 
 PULPIT TERRACE. 
 
 other portion of the world. The sky, with the 
 smallest cloud that flits across it, is reflected in its 
 clear depths, and the ultramarine colors, more vivid 
 than the sea, are greatly heightened by constant, 
 gentle vibrations. One can look down into the clear 
 depths and see, with perfect distinctness, the minutest 
 
214 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 ornament on the inner sides of the basins; and the 
 exquisite beauty of the coloring and the variety of 
 forms baffle any attempt to portray them either with 
 pen or pencil."* 
 
 Cleopatra Spring, Jupiter Terrace, Pulpit Terrace, 
 Minerva Terrace, the Narrow Gauge Terrace an in- 
 congruous name for a long fissure spring the White 
 Elephant, another fissure spring, and the Orange 
 Geyser, a very pretty formation, dome-shaped, with a 
 pulsating spring in the top, are among the most in- 
 teresting of the active springs. 
 
 Liberty Cap is the cone of an extinct spring and 
 stands forty-five feet high and twenty feet through 
 at the base. 
 
 Bath Lake is a warm pool of considerable size, 
 much used in bathing. 
 
 Scattered over the formation in every direction are 
 caves, springs, steam-vents, handsome deposits, and 
 curiosities without number to attract and detain the 
 visitor. Many of them, like Cupid's Cave, the Devil's 
 Kitchen, and McCartney's Cave, are of much interest. 
 In the last-mentioned cave, or, more properly, crater, 
 an elk fell one winter when the crater was level full 
 with light snow. His antlers caught between the 
 sides of the crater, holding him in a suspended posi- 
 tion until he perished. He was found the following 
 spring by Mr. McCartney. 
 
 Besides the hot springs features, there are other 
 important objects of interest in this neighborhood. 
 
 Lookout Hill is a prominent rounded elevation op- 
 posite the hotel. Upon its summit is a block-house, 
 
 Page 69 Hayden's Report for 1871. See Appendix E. 
 
Terra Kn:ir. <'<>. lloum'*, I'lu.tn., .S 
 
 GOLDEN GATE. 
 
Term Knar, f'n. Initi'i-.inll. 
 
 OSPREY FALLS. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 215 
 
 "built by Colonel Morris, in 1879, as a headquarters 
 building for the Superintendent. The awkward and 
 inconvenient location was selected for its defensible 
 qualities. It will be remembered that the two pre- 
 vious years, 1877 and 1878, had witnessed the Nez 
 Perce and Bannock incursions into the Park. 
 
 The Falls and Canon of the Middle Gardiner, distant 
 four miles from the hotel, are the finest scenery of the 
 kind in the Park, excepting only the Grand Caflon 
 of the Yellowstone. 
 
 Bunsen Peak is a conspicuous summit located be- 
 tween the Middle and West Forks of the Gardiner. 
 Its western face terminates in Cathedral Rock, a bold 
 cliff that overhangs the valley of Glen Creek. 
 
 Golden Gate, and Kinyman Pass are names applied 
 to the picturesque canon of Glen Creek. It is justly 
 considered one of the gems of the Park scenery. The 
 skillful engineering feat of carrying the tourist route 
 through this difficult canon was performed by Lieu- 
 tenant D. C. Kingman, of the Corps of Engineers, 
 U. S. A., in 1884-5. Rustic Falls is a handsome cata- 
 ract near the head of the pass. The best view in this 
 vicinity is to be had from above the pass, looking 
 through it toward Mt. Everts. 
 
 Besides Bunsen Peak, the tourist will find Terrace 
 Mountain, Sepulcher Mountain, and Electric Peak ever 
 ready to satisfy whatever ambition for mountain 
 climbing he ma} 7 possess. 
 
 The East Gardiner Canon affords some fine views, 
 and the falls and rapids at its head are extremely 
 beautiful. It is through this canon that access can 
 most easilv be had to the summit of Mt. Everts. This 
 last name is given to a feature which bears almost no 
 
216 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 resemblance to the ordinary conception of a moun- 
 tain. It is simply a broad table-land extending from 
 the Yellowstone south and terminating in the lofty 
 and conspicuous bluff just across the Gardiner from 
 Mammoth Hot Springs. The mountain derives its 
 chief popular interest from the Everts episode, which 
 is described in the Appendix under " Mt. Everts." It 
 is also of great interest to scientific inquirers. The 
 view from the prominent point opposite the forks of 
 the Gardiner is very fine. The whole Mammoth Hot 
 Springs formation and the group of buildings near 
 it ; the canons and falls of the three Gardiners ; and 
 the array of mountain peaks across the valley, form a 
 rare and attractive landscape. 
 
 Mt. Everts and the surrounding country are the 
 home of the Park antelope and mountain sheep. 
 
 As explained elsewhere, Mammoth Hot Springs is 
 the official and business headquarters of the Park. 
 The handsome garrison of Fort Yellowstone is built 
 on the white formation, and with the hotel and trans- 
 portation buildings, the post-oflice, and various other 
 structures, gives the place a village appearance not to 
 be seen in any other part of the Park. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 217 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs to Norris Geyser Basin. 
 
 Distance, twenty miles. The first object of interest, 
 after ascending the long hill above the Springs (four 
 miles), is the Gallatin Range of mountains, which 
 bursts into full view upon emerging from Kingman 
 Pass. Its various peaks Joseph, Gray, Bannock, 
 Quadrant, the Dome, Mt. Holmes, and others still re- 
 tain the heavy snow drifts of the previous winter. 
 Some of these peaks remain in sight for thirty miles 
 along the tourist route. 
 
 Swan Lake (4.5 miles) is a little pond on the right 
 of the road. 
 
 Willow Park (8 miles) comprises the valley of the 
 lower course of Obsidian Creek. It is a dense growth 
 of willows, and forms an attractive sight, either in 
 the fresh foliage of spring or in its autumnal coloring. 
 
 Apollinaris Spring (10 miles) is on the left of the 
 roadway, in a pine forest. Tourists generally stop 
 and try its water. 
 
 Obsidian Cliff (12 miles) is composed of a kind of 
 volcanic glass, black as anthracite, which abounds at 
 this point in enormous masses. The Indians once 
 quarried implements of war and the chase here, and 
 many fine arrowheads have been picked up by ex- 
 plorers. The building of the first road along the 
 base of this cliff has some historic celebrity, owing to 
 
218 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 the novel method employed. It was done by Colonel 
 Norris, who thus describes it: 
 
 " Obsidian there rises like basalt in vertical columns 
 many hundreds of feet high, and countless huge 
 masses ha.d fallen from this utterly impassable moun- 
 tain into the hissing hot spring margin of an equally 
 impassable lake, without either Indian or game trail 
 over the glistering fragments of Nature's glass, sure 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. Haync.s, Photo., St. Paul. 
 
 OBSIDIAN CLIFF AND BEAVER LA KB. 
 
 to severely lacerate. As this glass barricad s e sloped 
 from some 200 or 300 feet high against the cliff' at an 
 angle of some 45 to the lake, we with the slivered 
 fragments of timber thrown from the heights with 
 huge fires, heated and expanded, and then men, well 
 screened by blankets held by others, by dashing cold 
 water, suddenly cooled and fractured the large masses. 
 Then, with huge levers, steel bars, sledge, pick, and 
 shovels, and severe laceration of at least the hands 
 and faces of every member of the party, we rolled, 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 219 
 
 slid, crushed, and shoveled one-fourth of a mile of 
 good wagon road midway along the slope ; it being, 
 so far as I am aware, the only road of native glass 
 upon the continent."* 
 
 Beaver Lake has its outlet opposite the base of Ob- 
 sidian Cliff'. It is formed by ancient beaver dams, 
 now entirely overgrown with vegetation. The old 
 dam extends in a sinuous line entirely across the val- 
 ley, and, although apparently less than a yard thick, 
 is quite impervious to water. The lake is a great re- 
 sort for water fowl later in the year. 
 
 Roaring Mountain (15.5 miles) is a high hill on the 
 left of the road, with a powerful steam vent near the 
 summit. Nothing which can now be heard from the 
 road would suggest the name. 
 
 Twin Lakes (16 miles) are two exquisitely beautiful 
 ponds, if only seen in a good sunlight and with a 
 tranquil surface. The peculiar green of the water is 
 perhaps to be seen nowhere except in the National 
 Park. A most singular feature of these two lakes is 
 that, although so close together, they never simulta- 
 neously exhibit the same colors. 
 
 The Frying Pan (17.75 miles) is a small basin of 
 geyserite, on the right of the road, vigorously stewing 
 away in a manner which reminds one of a kitchen 
 spider in operation. 
 
 After passing Obsidian Clift' evidences of hot spring 
 action constantly increase, until they reach their climax 
 
 * Annual Report Superintendent of the Park, 1878. 
 
 The reader may now be inclined to take issue with our judg- 
 ment of Norris' practical turn for road building. He will at least 
 readily indorse our opinion of the old mountaineer's literary 
 ability. (See " Norris Peak," Appendix A.) 
 
220 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 in the Norris Geyser Basin. There are but few other 
 places in the Park where the odor of sulphur is so gen- 
 eral and offensive as on this portion of the tourist route. 
 
 Morris Geyser Basin is clearly among the more re- 
 cent volcanic developments of this region. Its rapid 
 encroachment upon the forest growth, and the frequent 
 appearance of new springs and the disappearance of 
 others, indicate its relatively recent origin. Compared 
 with the Firehole Geyser Basin it is of minor import- 
 ance; but coming first to the notice of the tourist it 
 receives a large amount of attention. It has only one 
 prominent geyser, the Monarch, which throws a col- 
 umn about 100 feet high. The Constant is visible 
 from the roadway in the bottom of a large tract of 
 geyserite which is unsafe for pedestrians. It makes 
 up in frequency of action what it lacks in power. The 
 most noteworthy feature of the basin has received the 
 appropriate name Hurricane. It is a prodigious steam 
 vent whose violent gusts bear a striking resemblance 
 to the driving blasts of a tempest. It also discharges 
 a large amount of water. The Black Growler, close 
 by the road side, is a similar phenomenon. 
 
 Among the less important features of this basin 
 may be mentioned the Congress, Constant, Arsenic, 
 Echinus, Fearless, Pearl, Vixen, Minute Man, and Mew 
 Crater, all geysers ; the Emerald Pool, a quiescent 
 spring; and the Locomotive and Mud Geyser, boiling 
 springs. 
 
 From the Norris Hotel a drive of three miles up 
 the Gibbon River, on the cross road leading to the 
 Grand Canon, carries the tourist to Virginia Cascade, 
 a unique and picturesque waterfall in a rocky canon 
 of considerable beauty. 
 
BLACK GROWLER 
 
 . 4'aul. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 221 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 Norris Geyser Basin to Lower Geyser Basin. 
 
 Distance, 20 miles. The road follows the Gibbon 
 River to within three miles of its mouth, then crosses 
 a point of land to the Firehole, and ascends the right 
 bank of the latter stream to the Lower Rasin. 
 
 Gibbon Meadows (3 miles) is a broad open bottom, 
 sometimes called Elk Park, just at the head of Gib- 
 bon Canon. 
 
 The Gibbon Paint Pots (4 miles) are on the left of 
 the road, near the head of the canon, and one-fourth 
 of a mile away. 
 
 Monument Geyser Basin (4.5 miles) is on the high 
 hill just west of the upper end of Gibbon Canon. It 
 is an interesting spot, but rarely visited owing to its 
 inaccessibility. It was discovered and named by Col. 
 Morris. 
 
 The Gibbon Canon (4.5 to 10.5 miles) affords the tour- 
 ist one of the pleasantest rides in the Park. The 
 mountains rise boldly from the river on either side, 
 and present several particularly fine views. The road 
 lies close to the river's edge, and the stream is an im- 
 portant adjunct to the scenery. 
 
 Beryl Spring (5 miles) is close to the road on the 
 side opposite the river. It boils violently and dis- 
 charges a large amount of water. The steam from it 
 frequently obscures the roadway. 
 
 The Soda and Iron Spring (7.5 miles), like Apolli- 
 
222 THE YELLOWSTON'E NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 naris Spring already mentioned, is a frequent stop- 
 ping-place for tourists. 
 
 Gibbon Falls (8 miles) is a water-fall of very 
 irregular outline, but withal one of much beauty. 
 The road hangs on the side of the cliff far above it, 
 and affords a lovely view of the forest-covered valley 
 below. 
 
 About half way between the point where the road 
 leaves the Gibbon River and that where it touches the 
 Firehole, is the junction of the belt line with the 
 western approach which enters the Park by way of 
 Madison Cation. A beautiful cascade, some distance 
 from the tourist route, may be found on the Firehole 
 River about a mile above its mouth. Just as the 
 road (the old Norris Road) commences to descend 
 from the high plateau between the Gibbon and the 
 Firehole, a glimpse is had of the Teton Mountains. 
 They are among the most striking in the entire 
 Rocky Mountain Region. For half a century after 
 the overland journey of the Astoriaris, they were the 
 chief landmarks in that trackless wilderness, and 
 long bore the name of Pilot Knobs. They are dis- 
 tinctly visible from every important peak in the Park, 
 although they are themselves outside its limits. As 
 seen from the point, at which we have arrived, 
 they are fifty miles away. They rise precipitously 
 from the west shore of Jackson Lake (also outside of 
 the Park) and with it form a scene of grandeur which 
 ought to be included in the reservation. In 1872, 
 Langford and Stevenson ascended the Grand Teton, 
 being the first white men ever to reach the summit.* 
 
 * Some doubt has been expressed in recent years as to the 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 228 
 
 They were astonished to find, on a point but little 
 lower than the main summit, a rude shelter of granite 
 slabs evidently put in place by human hands ages 
 ago. 
 
 Nez Perce Creek (18 miles) is the largest branch of 
 the Firehole, and is of historic interest from its con- 
 nection with the Indian campaign of 1877. It forms 
 the north boundary of the Lower Geyser Basin. Two 
 miles beyond it is the Fountain Hotel. 
 
 To attempt any thing like a detailed description of 
 the Firehole Geyser regions would be intolerable alike 
 to reader and author. Of the objects of interest, 
 any one of which in other localities would attract 
 marked attention, there are several thousand. In the 
 preaent description, therefore, only the more import- 
 ant features will be noticed those notable objects to- 
 see which is an indispensable part of any well ordered 
 tour of the Park. 
 
 The Fountain Geyser is a typical example of the 
 first class of geysers described in a previous chapter. 
 
 actual accomplishment of this feat. It probably arose from an 
 erroneous statement by Doctor Hayden in his report for 1872 
 that the granite inclosure was found " on the top of the Grand 
 Teton." As a matter of fact it was found on a point somewhat 
 lower, and is clearly so stated by Mr. Langford both in an official 
 report to Dr. Hayden (Hayden, 1872, p. 89) and in his ''Ascent of 
 Mt. Hayden" (Scribner's, June, 1873, p. 1-45). A subsequent ex- 
 plorer, who ascended the mountain to the site of this principal 
 object of interest, came to the conclusion, doubtless as a result of 
 the erroneous account given by Hayden, that this was what Lang- 
 ford and Stevenson called the summit. But the references above 
 given, and a more detailed and circumstantial account furnished 
 by Mr. Langford at the writer's request, effectually demolish, 
 this theory. 
 
224 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Its proximity to the hotel (one-fourth mile) causes it 
 to be much visited. 
 
 The Mammoth Paint Pots, a little way east of the 
 Fountain, are probably the most prominent example 
 of this class of phenomena in the Park. 
 
 The Great Fountain Geyser lies a mile and a half 
 south-east of the Fountain. It is the chief wonder 
 of the Lower Basin, and, in some respects, the most 
 remarkable geyser in the Park. Its formation is 
 quite unlike that of any other. At first sight the 
 visitor is tempted to believe that some one has here 
 placed a vast pedestal upon which to erect a monu- 
 ment. It is a broad, circular table about two feet 
 high, composed entirely of hard silicious deposit. In 
 its surface are numerous pools molded and orna- 
 mented in a manner quite unapproached, at least on 
 so large a scale, in any other part of the Park. In 
 the center of the pedestal, where the monument ought 
 to stand, is a large irregular pool of great depth, full 
 of hot water, forming, to all appearances, a lovely 
 quiescent spring. At times of eruption, the contents 
 of this spring are hurled bodily upward to a height 
 sometimes reaching 100 feet. The torrent of water 
 which follows the prodigious down-pouring upon the 
 face of the pedestal, flows away in all directions over 
 the white geyserite plain. No visitor to the Yel- 
 lowstone can afford to miss the Great Fountain 
 Geyser. 
 
 In this vicinity are several of the handsomest 
 springs in the Park. One in particular lies just across 
 the hot stream which flows a little to the south of the 
 Great Fountain. It is shaped like an egg set endwise 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 225 
 
 in the ground with the upper part of the shell broken 
 off. It is an exquisite trifle. 
 
 In a small valley, extending to the north-east from 
 the Great Fountain, are several objects worthy of 
 notice. One of these is an immense hot lake, by far 
 the largest in the Park. Steady Geyser and Young 
 Hopeful, near the head of the valley, are not remark- 
 able in this land of geysers. 
 
 The principal attraction of the locality is what has 
 come to be called the Firehole. It is at the extreme 
 upper end of the valley, difficult to find, and unsatis- 
 factory to visit when the wind agitates the water sur- 
 face. It is a large hot spring from the bottom of 
 which, to all appearances, a light colored flame is con- 
 stantly issuing, only to be extinguished in the water 
 before it reaches the surface. At times it has a dis- 
 tinct ruddy tinge and it always flickers back and forth 
 like the lambent flame of a torch. "When seen under 
 favorable conditions, the illusion is perfect, and the 
 beholder is sure that he has at last caught a glimpse 
 of the hidden fires which produce the weird phe- 
 nomena of this region. But it is only illusion. 
 Through a fissure in the rock gas or superheated 
 steam escapes and divides the water, just as bubbles 
 do on a smaller scale. The reflection from the surface 
 thus formed accounts for the appearance, which is in- 
 tensified by the black background formed by the sides 
 and bottom of the pool. 
 
 The Lower Geyser Basin has an area of thirty 
 square miles. Conspicuous among its topographical 
 features are the Twin Suites, two prominent peaks 
 west of the river which dominate the entire basin. A 
 
226 
 
 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 little way south of these is Fairy Fall, a pretty cas- 
 cade 250 feet high. 
 
 There will be included in this chapter, as more 
 properly belonging to it than to the next, a descrip- 
 tion of the Midway Geyser Basin. Its principal in- 
 terest lies in the stupendous character of its phe- 
 nomena. 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 EXCELSIOR GEYSER. 
 
 Haynes, Photo., St. Paul. 
 
 Ill 
 
 Excelsior Geyser, as a dynamic agent, has no equal 
 the Park. It is really a water volcano, and its 
 eruptions have nothing of the characteristic display 
 of a genuine geyser. Its crater is a vast seething 
 cauldron close by the brink of the Firehole River, 
 into which, in non-eruptive periods even, it pours 
 4,000 gallons of water per minute. The shape of the 
 crater is irregular. Its dimensions are about 330 by 
 200 feet, and 20 feet deep. It was not known to be a 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 227 
 
 geyser until 1878, and did not really disclose its true 
 character until the winter of 1881. During the re-, 
 mainder of that year and 1882, it gave continuous 
 exhibitions of its power. Its water column was more 
 than 50 feet in diameter, and at times rose to the 
 enormous height of 250 feet. At such times, it 
 doubled the volume of water in the Firehole River. 
 Its eruptions were frequently accompanied by the 
 ejection of large rocks. A' second period of activity 
 took place in 1888, since which time it has remained 
 inactive. 
 
 Prismatic Lake is the most perfect spring of its kind 
 in the world. It rests on the summit of a self-built 
 mound, sloping very gently in all directions. Down 
 this slope the overflow from the spring descends in 
 tiny rivulets, every-where interlaced with each other. 
 A map of the mound resembles a spider web, with 
 the spider (the spring) in the center. The pool is 250 
 by 300 feet in size. Over the lake hangs an ever- 
 present cloud of steam, which itself often bears a 
 crimson tinge, reflected from the waters below. The 
 steam unfortunately obscures the surface of the lake, 
 and one involuntarily wishes for a row-boat, in which 
 to explore its unseen portions. Wherever visible, 
 there is a varied and wonderful play of colors, which 
 fully justifies the name. 
 
 Turquoise Spring is another large pool, 100 feet in 
 diameter, and rivals Prismatic Lake in the beauty of 
 its coloring. 
 
 The Midway Geyser Basin contains hundreds of 
 other springs, some of them very beautiful, but the 
 Basin is mainly noted for the three features just de- 
 scribed. 
 
228 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 Lower Geyser Basin to Upper Geyser Basin. 
 
 Distance, nine miles. Road follows the Firehole 
 River. Midway Geyser Basin, already described, is 
 passed four miles out. No other object of interest is 
 met until the visitor actually arrives at the Upper 
 Basin. 
 
 This locality is probably the most popular with the 
 tourist of any in the Park. Its two rivals, the Grand 
 Canon and the Yellowstone Lake, are so unlike it as- 
 not to admit of any comparison. It is the home of 
 the genus yeyser, as seen in its highest development. 
 There are fifteen examples of the first magnitude 
 and scores of less important ones.* The quiescent 
 pools and springs are also numerous and of great 
 beauty^ 
 
 The first important feature en route is the Biscuit 
 Basin, which is reached by a side road leading to the 
 west bank of the Firehole River. It contains a fine 
 geyser and several beautiful springs. The most in- 
 teresting are the Jewell Geyser and the Sapphire Pool. 
 Near this locality is the Mystic Falls, a fine cascade, 
 on the Little Firehole River. 
 
 Artemesia Geyser comes next to the attention of the 
 tourist. It has been known as a geyser only since 1886. 
 
 * For list of names of geysers, with heights of eruptions, see 
 Appendix A, VII. 
 
SKETCH MAP 
 OF THE 
 
 UPPER GEYSER BASIN 
 
 HITE PYRAMID , 
 
 PUNCH BOWL 
 
 SLACK SAND BASIN 
 
 SLIFF GEYSER 
 
 
 CRATR CEYSERf 
 
 OLD FAITHFUL 
 
 Upp. page 2%8. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 229 
 
 It is on the right of the roadway, at a considerably 
 lower level. 
 
 The Morning Glory is a little further up stream. In 
 this beautiful object the quiescent pool is at its best. 
 Its exquisite bordering and the deep cerulean hue of 
 its transparent waters make it, and others like it, ob- 
 jects of ceaseless admiration. 
 
 The Fan Geyser is close by the Firehole on the east 
 bank, not far above the Morning Glory. The River- 
 side is also on the east bank at the point where the 
 road crosses the river. It is an inconspicuous object 
 when not in eruption, and one would scarcely suspect 
 it of being a geyser. It spouts obliquely across the 
 river, and not, like most geysers, vertically. 
 
 GROTTO GEYSER CONE. 
 
 Gandy. 
 
 Next in order, after crossing the river to the West- 
 bank, is the Grotto, remarkable for its irregular and 
 cavernous crater. A little further on, close to the 
 
230 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 river, stands the broken crater of one of the Park's 
 greatest geysers, the Giant. Lieutenant Doane com- 
 pared its crater to a " huge shattered horn." 
 
 A few hundred feet further up stream, still close 
 to the river, is the Oblong. Directly across the road r 
 but a short' distance away, is the Splendid, well worthy 
 of its name; and near it, sometimes playing simul- 
 taneously, is the Comet. 
 
 To the westward from the Firehole, nearly on the di- 
 vide between it and Iron Creek, is a lovely spring, called 
 the Punch-bowl. Across the divide in the Iron Creek 
 valley is the Black Sand Basin, a unique but beautiful 
 pool. Near it is another attraction, Specimen Lake, 
 so named from an abundance of specimens of partly 
 petrified wood. The limit of curiosities in this direc- 
 tion is Emerald Pool, which competent judges pro- 
 nounce to be the finest quiescent spring in the Park. 
 
 Returning to the Firehole by a different route, we 
 pass a large spring or geyser known as the Three 
 Crater Spring. Its three craters are connected by 
 narrow water ways, making one continuous pool, 
 though fed from three sources. 
 
 A thousand feet to the north, stands the most im- 
 posing crater in the Park, that of the Castle geyser. 
 It is frequently seen in moderate eruption, but rarely 
 when doing its best. As ordinarily seen, it throws 
 a column of water only 50 or 60 feet, but at times it 
 plays as high as 150 or 200 feet. 
 
 Crossing the river to its right bank, nearly opposite 
 the Castle, there are found within a narrow compass 
 three noted geysers, the Sawmill, Turban, and Grand. 
 Of these, the last is by far the finest, and ranks among 
 the very greatest geysers in the world. It was not 
 
CASTLE GEYSER. 
 
 ,'.ii' - -; 
 
 rtaynes, ftwto., Ait. 1'aul. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 231 
 
 seen by the Washburn Party, in 1870, but it seems to 
 have been the first geyser to welcome to the Upper 
 Basin the Hayden and Barlow parties in 1871. Cap- 
 tain Barlow says of its eruption : * 
 
 . 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. First sketch ever made, -f 
 
 CASTLE GEYSER CONE. 
 
 "This grand fountain continued to play for several 
 minutes. When dying down, I approached to obtain 
 a closer view of the aperture whence had issued such 
 a powerful stream. A sudden gush of steam drove 
 me away, following which the water was again im- 
 pelled upward and upward, far above the steam, till 
 it seemed to have lost the controlling force of gravity, 
 and that it would never cease to rise. The roar was 
 like the sound of a tornado, but there was no appar- 
 ent effort; a steady stream, very graceful and per- 
 fectly vertical, except as a slight breeze may have 
 waved it to and fro. Strong and smooth, it continued 
 
 * Page 25, " Reconnaissance of the Yellowstone River." See 
 Appendix E. 
 t See foot note, page 168. 
 
232 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 to ascend like the stream from a powerful steam fire- 
 engine. We were all lost in astonishment at the 
 sudden and marvelous spectacle. The proportions of 
 the fountain were perfect. The enthusiasm of the 
 party was manifested in shouts of delight. Under 
 the excitement of the moment, it was estimated to be 
 from three to five hundred feet in height." 
 
 Further up the fiver on the same side and at some 
 distance back, are the Lion, Lioness and the two Cubs, 
 an interesting group, including one notable geyser. 
 Half way up a high mound of geyserite which cov- 
 ers a large area on the north side of the river, is an 
 exquisitely beautiful formation called, from its appear- 
 ance, the Sponge. 
 
 On the top of the mound is another of the great 
 geysers, thought by the Washburn Party to be the 
 greatest in the world, the G-iantess. It belongs to the 
 class of fountain geysers, and when not in action 
 strongly resembles a quiescent spring. Its eruptions 
 are infrequent and irregular, but when it does play it 
 is a sight not to be forgotten. Mr. Langford thus de- 
 scribes the first eruption known to have been seen by 
 white men :* 
 
 " We were standing on the side of the geyser near- 
 est the sun, the gleams of which filled the sparkling 
 columns of water and spray with myriad rainbows, 
 whose arches were constantly changing dipping and 
 fluttering hither and thither, and disappearing only to 
 be succeeded by others, again and again, amid the 
 aqueous column, while the minute globules, into which 
 the spent jets were diffused when falling, sparkled 
 
 * " The Wonders of the Yellowstone." See Appendix E. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 233 
 
 like a shower of diamonds, and around every shadow 
 which the denser clouds of vapor, interrupting the 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. Haynes, Photo., St. Paul. 
 
 THE BEE HIVE GEYSER. 
 
 sun's rays, cast upon the column, could be seen a 
 luminous circle, radiant with all the colors of the 
 prism, and resembling the halo of glory represented 
 
234 THE YELOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 in paintings as encircling the head of Divinity. All 
 that we had previously witnessed seemed tame in 
 comparison with the perfect grandeur and beauty of 
 this display." 
 
 Between the Giantess and the river is the Bee Hive y 
 also one of the most prominent geysers. The symme- 
 try of its cone is only surpassed by the regularity of 
 its water column. From an artistic point of view it 
 is the most perfect geyser in the Park. Its slender jet 
 attains a great height and is vertical and symmetrical 
 throughout. 
 
 Crossing again to the west bank of the stream and 
 ascending to the very head of the basin, we come to 
 the last and most important of the geysers, Old Faith- 
 ful. Any other geyser, any five other geysers, could 
 be erased from the list better than part with Old 
 Faithful. The Giant, Giantess, Grand, Splendid, and 
 Excelsior, have more powerful eruptions. The Bee 
 Hive is more artistic. The Great Fountain has a more 
 wonderful formation. But Old Faithful partakes in 
 a high degree of all these characteristics, and, in addi- 
 tion, has the invaluable quality of uniform periodicity 
 of action. It is in fact the most perfect of all known 
 geysers. 
 
 To it fell the honor of welcoming civilized man to 
 this region. It w r as the first geyser named. It stands 
 at the head of the basin and has been happily called 
 " The Guardian of the Valley." 
 
 It is located in the center of an oblong mound, 145 
 by 215 feet at the base, 20 by 54 feet at the summit, 
 and about 12 feet high. The tube, which seems to 
 have originated in a fissure in the rock, has an inside 
 measurement of 2 by 6 feet. 
 
Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 I'. N. (I'rnliii/ii'al Xtu-ri'.H <it tin 
 
 OLD FAiTFrpn.. 
 
A TOUR OF T11E PARK. 235 
 
 The ornamentation about the crater, though limited 
 in extent, is nowhere surpassed for beauty of form 
 and color. In particular, the three small pools on the 
 north side of the crater and very close to it are speci- 
 mens of the most remarkable handiwork which Mature 
 has lavished upon this region. A singular fact is that 
 the waters in these three pools, although so close to- 
 gether as apparently to be subject to the same condi- 
 tions, are of different colors. Speaking of these mar- 
 velous appearances, Lieutenant Doane says : * 
 
 " One instinctively touches the hot ledges with his 
 hands, and sounds with a stick the depths of the 
 cavities in the slope, in utter doubt of the evidence 
 of his own eyes. . . . It is the most lovely in- 
 animate object in existence." 
 
 In its eruption this geyser is equally fascinating. 
 It always gives ample warning, and visitors have time 
 to station themselves where the view will be most 
 perfect. The graceful column rises, at first with ap- 
 parent effort, but later with evident ease, to a height 
 of 150 feet. The noise is simply that of a jet of water 
 from an ordinary hose, only in intensity correspond- 
 ing to the greater flow. The steam, when carried 
 laterally by a gentle breeze, unfurls itself like an enor- 
 mous flag from its watery standard. The water is of 
 crystal clearness and the myriad drops float in the air 
 with all manner of brilliant effects. To quote Lieu- 
 tenant Doane again : 
 
 "Rainbows play around the tremendous fountain, 
 the waters of which fall about the basin in showers of 
 
 * Page 29, " Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appen- 
 dix E. 
 
236 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 brilliants, and then rush steaming down the slopes to 
 the river." 
 
 The uniform periodicity of this geyser is its most 
 wonderful and most useful characteristic. It never 
 fails the tourist. With an average interval of sixty- 
 five minutes, it varies but little either way. Night 
 and day, winter and summer, seen or unseen, this 
 "tremendous fountain" has been playing for untold 
 ages. Only in thousands of years can its lifetime be 
 reckoned ; for the visible work it has wrought, and its 
 present infinitely slow rate of progress, fairly appall 
 the inquirer who seeks to learn its real age. 
 
 It is worth while, however, to note the enormous 
 work which this geyser daily performs. A conserva- 
 tive estimate, based upon an extended series of obser- 
 vations made in 1878 by the United States Geological 
 Survey, shows that the outpour for an average erup- 
 tion is not less 1,500,000 gallons, which gives 33,225,- 
 000 gallons per day. This would supply a city of 
 300,000 inhabitants. The combination of conditions , 
 by which the supply of heat and water, and the form 
 of tube, are so perfectly adapted to their work, that 
 even a chronometer is scarcely more regular in its ac- 
 tion, is one of the miracles of nature. 
 
itrry Enyr. <'<>. 
 
 <j. o. ijrutwyicul Survey <y the Xerritofiet, 
 
 KEPLEK CASCADE. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 237 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 Upper Geyser Basin to the Yellowstone Lake. 
 
 Distance, nineteen miles. The route ascends the 
 Firehole River to the mouth of Spring Creek, which 
 stream it follows to the Continental Divide. For 
 seven miles it then lies on the Pacific slope, after 
 which it descends the mountains to the Yellowstone 
 Lake. The drive is one of the most pleasant in the 
 Park, and the scenery is unconventional and wild. 
 
 Kepler Cascade (1.25 miles) is a fascinating water- 
 fall. Lieutenant Doane, who first wrote of it, says :* 
 
 " These pretty little falls, if located on an eastern 
 stream, would be celebrated in history and song; 
 here, amid objects so grand as to strain conception 
 and stagger belief, they were passed without a halt." 
 
 We counsel the tourist not to so pass them. 
 
 Half a mile up the Firehole, above the mouth of 
 Spring Creek, is the Lone Star Geyser (4 miles). 
 This geyser is conspicuous chiefly for its fine cone. 
 It plays frequently to a height of 40 or 50 feet. 
 
 Madison Lake, ten miles further up the valley, is 
 the ultimate lake source of the Madison River. This 
 lake, with possibly the exception of Red Rock Lake, 
 the source of the Jefferson, is further from the sea by 
 direct water-course than any other lake on the globe. 
 
 Returning down the Firehole, we enter the mouth 
 
 * Page 27, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. 
 
238 THE 1ELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 of Spring Creek Canon (3.5 miles), which the road 
 traverses for a distance of two and one-half miles. 
 This narrow, winding, rocky caflon, under the shadow 
 of the Continental Divide, is full of picturesque turns 
 and surprises. 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. Haynes, Plioto., ftt. Paul. 
 
 LONE STAR GEYSER. 
 
 The first crossing of the Continental Divide (8.5 
 miles) is through a narrow canon, Craig Pass, hemmed 
 in by precipitous cliffs, inclosing a lily-covered pond, 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 239 
 
 Isa Lake, which rests squarely upon the doubtful 
 ground between the two oceans. 
 
 Shoshone Point (10.5 miles) is in the center of the 
 large amphitheater-shaped tract which is drained by 
 the branches of De Lacy Creek. It overlooks Shoshone 
 Lake and the broad basin surrounding it, and gives a 
 second glimpse of the Teton Mountains. 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 ISA LAKE AND CRAIG PASS. 
 
 Shoshone Lake is a lovely body of water, with an 
 area of twelve square miles and a most picturesque 
 shore line. On its west shore is a geyser basin, second 
 in importance only to those on the Firehole. Among 
 its many interesting features may be mentioned the 
 Union Geyser, of which the middle crater plays to a 
 height of 100 feet ; and the Bronze Geyser, very strik- 
 
240 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 ing because of the perfect metallic luster of its forma- 
 tion. 
 
 From Shoshone Point, the road again ascends to 
 the Continental Divide, and then drops down the 
 Atlantic slope toward the Yellowstone Valley. 
 
 Lake View (18 miles) is at a point where a sudden 
 turn in the forest road brings the tourist, quite with- 
 out warning, in full view of one of the most striking 
 water landscapes in the world. The whole vista of 
 the Yellowstone Lake is spread out before him, still 
 300 feet below where he is standing. Far to the 
 right and left, along the distant eastern shore, extends 
 the Absaroka Range of mountains, many of its sum- 
 mits still capped with snow. Every-where the dark 
 pine forests come down to the water's edge, in fine 
 contrast with the silver surface of the lake. The 
 sparkling of the waves, the passage of the cloud 
 shadows, and, in sheltered coves, the tranquil mirror 
 of the waters, all combine to make the picture one to 
 be long remembered. 
 
 The Yellowstone Lake is about 7,741 feet, nearly a 
 mile and a half, above the level of the sea. It has a 
 shore line of 100 miles, and an area of 139 square 
 miles. Its maximum depth is 300 feet, and its aver- 
 age depth about 30 feet. It is fed almost entirely 
 from the springs and snow drifts of the Absaroka 
 Range. Its waters are icy cold, clear and transparent 
 to great depths, and literally swarm with trout. It is 
 subject to heavy south-west winds, and at times is 
 lashed into tempestuous seas. 
 
 The shape of the lake was compared by the early 
 explorers to the form of the human hand. The resem- 
 blance is exceedingly remote, and one writer has well 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 241 
 
 observed that only the hand of a base ball player who 
 has stood for years behind the bat could satisfy the 
 comparison. The " fingers" have now been generally 
 dropped from the maps and replaced by the usual 
 names; but "West Thumb" seems to have become 
 a fixture. 
 
 Surpassing the Yellowstone Lake both in area and 
 altitude there are but few lakes in the world. Lake 
 Titticaca, in Peru, and one or two others in the less 
 explored regions of the Andes ; and also a few lakes 
 on the lofty tableland of Thibet, comprise the num- 
 ber. 
 
 The Yellowstone Lake has been a theme of enthu- 
 siastic praise by all who have ever seen it ; but what 
 seems to us the most exquisite tribute it has ever re- 
 ceived is to be found in the farewell words of Mr. 
 Folsom, when, in 1869, he regretfully turned away 
 from its western shore into the deep forests which sur- 
 round it :* 
 
 "As we were about departing on our homeward 
 trip, we ascended the summit of a neighboring hill 
 and took a final look at Yellowstone Lake. Nestled 
 among the forest-crowned hills which bounded our 
 visions, lay this inland sea, its crystal waves dancing 
 and sparkling in the sunlight as if laughing with joy 
 for their wild freedom. It is a scene of transcendent 
 beauty which has been viewed by but few white men, 
 and we felt glad to have looked upon it before its 
 primeval solitude should be broken by the crowds of 
 
 * Page 20, Langford's reprint of the " Valley of the Upper Yel- 
 lowstone." See Appendix E. 
 
242 
 
 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 pleasure seekers which at no distant day will throng 
 its shores." 
 
 On the west shore of the lake is an extensive and 
 important hot springs basin. The principal features 
 are the Paint Pots, not inferior to those near the Foun- 
 tain Hotel; two of the largest and most beautiful 
 
 Terry Eng. Co. 
 
 FISHING CONK. 
 
 Gandy. 
 
 quiescent springs in the Park; the Lake Shore Gey- 
 ser, which plays frequently to a height of about 30 
 feet; an unnamed geyser of considerable power but 
 of very infrequent action ; and the celebrated Fishing 
 Cone where unfortunate trout find catching and cook- 
 ing painfully near together. 
 
 From the west shore of the lake a visit can be ad- 
 vantageously made to Hart Lake and Mount Sheridan. 
 The lake is probably the prettiest in the Park. Near 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 243 
 
 it, on the tributary Witch Creek, is a small but impor- 
 tant geyser basin. The principal features are the 
 Deluge, Spike and Rustic geysers, and the Fissure 
 Group of springs. The Rustic Geyser is remarkable 
 in having about it a cordon of logs, evidently placed 
 there by the Indians or white men many years ago. 
 The logs are completely incrusted with the deposits of 
 the springs. 
 
 Mt. Sheridan would rank with Mt. Washburn as a 
 popular peak for mountain climbers were it only 
 more accessible. No summit in the Park affords a 
 finer prospect. 
 
 From the west shore to the Lake Outlet the tourist 
 may travel either by stage around the border of the 
 lake, or by boat across it. If he does not want to 
 miss one of the notable features of the tour he will 
 not omit the boat ride. In fact, a steamboat ride, at 
 an altitude more than a quarter of a mile greater 
 than that of the summit of Mt. Washington is not an 
 every day diversion. From near the center of the 
 lake the view is surpassingly fine. To the south 
 and south-west the long arms of the lake penetrate 
 the dark forest-crowned hills, which are but stepping 
 stones to the lofty mountains behind them. Far 
 beyond these may again be seen for the third time the 
 familiar peaks of the Tetons. All along the eastern 
 shore stand the serried peaks of the Absaroka Range, 
 the boundary which nature has so well established 
 along the eastern border of the Park. A notable 
 feature of this range is the profile of a human face 
 formed by the superimposed contours of two moun- 
 tains, one several miles behind the other. The best 
 effect is had from points between Stevenson Island and 
 the Lake Hotel. The face is looking directly upward. 
 
THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 A similar profile, noted by the early explorers from 
 the summit of Mt. "Washburn, and nearly in the same 
 locality as this, although of course not the same 
 feature, was called by them the " Giant's Face," or 
 the " Old Man of the Mountain." 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 NATURAL BRIDGE. 
 
 Gcmdy. 
 
 On the north-east shore of the lake are Steamboat 
 Spring, and other thermal phenomena worth visiting. 
 From Bridge Bay at the north-west of the lake, a 
 trip of a mile will take the tourist to an extremely in- 
 teresting freak of nature in the form of a Natural 
 Bridge over a small tributary of Bridge Creek. The 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 245 
 
 arch is forty-one feet high with a thirty foot span. 
 As seen from the down stream side it is very regular 
 and symmetrical. 
 
 Some twenty miles ahove the head of the lake is the 
 celebrated Tiro-Ocean Pass, long known to the early 
 trappers. It is probably the most remarkable example 
 of such a phenomenon in the world. Although the fact 
 of its existence was asserted and stoutly maintained 
 by Bridger for many years prior to the discovery of 
 the Park region, it was generally disbelieved until 
 Captain Jones crossed the pass in 1873. It has since 
 been visited and described by Hayden in 1878, by 
 Hague in 1884, and by Prof. Evermann of the United 
 States Pish Commission in 1891. The following facts 
 and map are taken from Prof. Evermann's report: 
 
 -'''* -, , > ' 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 SKETCH OF TWO-OCEAN PASS. 
 
246 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 The pass is in a nearly level grassy park hemmed 
 in by the surrounding hills, and is 8,150 feet above the 
 level of the sea. Its extreme length is about one mile 
 and its extreme breadth about three-fourths of a mile. 
 From the north a stream issues from a canon, a, and 
 divides at 6, part flowing to Atlantic Creek and part 
 to Pacific Creek. A similar stream, <?, with a similar 
 division, d, comes from the south. At extreme low 
 water, these divisions may possibly disappear and all 
 the water flow either one way or the other. But at 
 ordinary and high stages the water flows both ways. 
 These streams are by no means insignificant rivulets, 
 but substantial water-courses capable of affording 
 passage to fish of considerable size. 
 
 Here, then, we have the very interesting phenome- 
 non of a single stream upon the summit of the con- 
 tinent dividing and flowing part one way and part the 
 other, and forming a continuous water connection be- 
 tween the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans over a distance 
 of nearly 6,000 miles. 
 
 A most singular and interesting acoustic phenome- 
 non of this region, although rarely noticed by tourists, 
 is the occurrence of strange and indefinable overhead 
 sounds. They have long been noted by explorers, but 
 only in the vicinity of Shoshone and Yellowstone 
 Lakes. They seem to occur in the morning, and to 
 last only for a moment. They have an apparent mo- 
 tion through the air, the general direction noted by 
 writers being from north to south. The following de- 
 scriptions are from the pens of those who have given 
 some study to these strange sounds. Prof. S. A. 
 Forbes says : 
 
 " It put me in mind of the vibrating clang of a harp 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 247 
 
 lightly and rapidly touched high up above the tree 
 tops, or the sound of many telegraph wires swinging 
 regularly and rapidly in the wind, or, more rarely, of 
 faintly heard voices answering each other overhead. 
 It begins softly in the remote distance, draws rapidly 
 near with louder and louder throbs of sound, and dies 
 away in the opposite direction ; or it may seem to 
 wander irregularly about, the whole passage lasting 
 from a few seconds to half a minute or more." * 
 
 Mr. Edwin Linton thus describes it : 
 
 " It seemed to begin at a distance, grow louder over- 
 head where it filled the upper air, and suggested a 
 medley of wind in the tops of pine trees, and in tele- 
 graph wires, the echo of bells after being repeated sev- 
 eral times, the humming of a swarm of bees, and two 
 or three other less definite sources of sound, making 
 in all a composite which was not loud, but easily 
 recognized, and not at all likely to be mistaken for 
 any other sound in these mountain solitudes." * 
 
 No rational explanation has ever been advanced for 
 this remarkable phenomenon. Its woird character is 
 in keeping with its strange surroundings. In other 
 lands and times it would have been an object of super- 
 stitious reverence or dread, and would have found a 
 permanent place in the traditions of the people. 
 
 * " Overhead sounds in the vicinity of Yellowstone Lake." 
 See Appendix E. 
 
248 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 The Yellowstone Lake to Grand Canon of the Yellow- 
 stone. 
 
 Distance seventeen miles. The road follows the 
 Yellowstone River along the west bank all the way. 
 
 Just after the tourist leaves the Lake Hotel, he will 
 see on the right of the roadway a small monument. 
 It was placed there, in 1893, by the United States 
 Corps of Engineers to mark a position accurately de- 
 termined from astronomical observations by the 
 United States Coast and Geodetic Survey in 1892. It 
 is of value as a point of reference in surveys and other 
 similar work.* 
 
 Mud Volcano (7.5 miles) is a weird, uncanny object, 
 but, nevertheless, a very fascinating feature and one 
 which the tourist should stop and examine. It is an 
 immense funnel-shaped crater in the side of a consid- 
 erable hill on the west bank of the river. The mud 
 rises some distance above a large steam vent in the 
 side of the crater next the hill, and chokes the vent 
 until the steam has accumulated in sufficient force to 
 lift the superincumbent mass. As the imprisoned 
 steam bursts forth, it hurls the mud with great vio- 
 lence against the opposite side of the crater, making 
 
 Latitude, 44 33' 16.1" north. 
 Longitude, 110 23" 43.1" west. 
 Magnetic variation about 19 east. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 249 
 
 a heavy thud which is audible for half a mile. These 
 outbursts take place every few seconds. 
 
 A striking example of the strange commingling of 
 dissimilar features in the hot springs districts is found 
 in the Grotto, a spring of perfectly clear water, not far 
 from the Mud Volcano. It is acted upon by the 
 steam in a manner precisely similar to that of the 
 Mud Volcano, but its waters issue directly from the 
 rock, and are entirely clear. 
 
 Mud Geyser, now rarely seen in action, was an im- 
 portant geyser twenty years ago. As it became in- 
 frequent in its eruptions, and tourists rarely saw them, 
 the name was unconsciously, but mistakenly, trans- 
 ferred to the Mud Volcano, which has none of the 
 characteristics of a geyser. 
 
 The locality where these objects are found has con- 
 siderable historic interest. The ford just below the 
 Mud Volcano was long used by the hunters and trap- 
 pers who passed up and down the river. Folsom 
 crossed it in 1869, and the Washburn party in 1870. 
 The Nez Perces encamped here two days, in 1877, and 
 here transpired a part of the episode elsewhere re- 
 lated. Hither came General Howard, in pursuit of 
 the Indians, although he did not cross the river at 
 this point. 
 
 Trout Creek (9.5 miles) has a most peculiar feature, 
 where the tourist route crosses it, in the form of an 
 extraordinary doubling of the channel upon itself. 
 It was this stream which Mr. Hedges, in 1870, called 
 "a lazy creek coiled up like a monster serpent under 
 a sand bluff." 
 
 Sulphur Mountain (11.5 miles) is half a mile back 
 from the main route. At its base is a remarkable 
 
250 
 
 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Sulphur Spring, always in a state of violent ebul- 
 lition, although discharging only a small amount of 
 water. This is highly impregnated with sulphur, 
 and leaves a yellow border along the rivulet which 
 carries it away. The best time to visit Sulphur Moun- 
 tain is on a clear sharp morning. The myriad little 
 steam vents which cover the surface of the hill are 
 then very noticeable. 
 
 Hay den Valley is a broad grassy expanse extending 
 several miles along the river and far back from it on 
 the west side. It was once a vast arm of the lake. 
 It comprises some fifty square miles, and is an im- 
 portant winter range for the Park buffalo and elk. 
 
 Terry Knur. do. 
 
 RAPIDS ABOVE FALLS. 
 
 Gaudy. 
 
 The river along the lower portion of this valley is 
 the most tranquil and lovely stream imaginable 
 broad, deep, transparent, flowing peacefully around 
 its graceful curves, disturbed only by the splashing 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 251 
 
 trout which inhabit it. There is little here to suggest 
 the mad turmoil into which it is soon to plunge. At 
 a point fifteen miles below the lake, the river and road 
 are forced by the narrowing valley close together. 
 The stream becomes suddenly broken into turbulent 
 cascades as it dashes violently between precipitous 
 banks and among massive bowlders. 
 
 The road also becomes decidedly picturesque. Hung 
 up on the almost vertical clift' overlooking the rapids, 
 it forms a short drive unsurpassed for interest any- 
 where else in the Park. At one point it crosses a 
 deep ravine over the highest bridge on the road sys- 
 tem. Just to the left of this bridge, in the bottom of 
 the ravine, still stands the tree upon which some 
 white man carved his initials away back in 1819. 
 
 Half a mile below the head of the rapids, the river 
 suddenly contracts its width to less than fifty feet, 
 turns abruptly to the right, and disappears. It is the 
 Upper Fall of the Yellowstone. In some respects, 
 this cataract differs from almost any other. Although 
 the ledge over which it falls is apparently perpen- 
 dicular, the velocity of flow at the crest of the fall is 
 so great that the water pours over as if on the surface 
 of a wheel. Visitors at Niagara have noticed the dif- 
 ference in this respect between the almost vertical 
 sheet of water 011 the American side and the well- 
 rounded flow at the apex of the Horseshoe Fall. The 
 height of the Upper Fall of the Yellowstone is 112 
 feet. 
 
 From this point, the character of the scenery is wild 
 and rugged. A ride of a few hundred yards brings 
 the tourist to a sharp bend in the road, which at once 
 unfolds to him the whole vista of the Grand Canon of 
 
252 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Terry Eng. Oo. 
 
 ORIGINAL SKETCH.* 
 
 the Yellowstone. The sight is so impressive and ab- 
 sorbing that the chances are he will cross the ravine 
 
 * See foot-note, page 108. 
 
''. - v . >i''<i!o.iic tl Fitrrfy i,f int 
 
 CAXON OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 I.i>:ikiivi down probalily from L<.>ku;U I'oint. 
 
n-rrii J-.IKJI: 'Cn. Haynex, Photo., St. 1'aul. 
 
 ORAXD CASON OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 From Inspiration Point looking up stream. Lower Fall in the distance. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 253 
 
 of Cascade Creek without even noticing the lovely 
 Crystal Falls almost beneath his feet. 
 
 The Canon Hotel is half a mile beyond Cascade 
 Creek, in an open park, a little way back from the 
 brink of the Canon. From its porch, the crest of the 
 Upper Fall can be seen, and the roar of both cata- 
 racts is distinctly audible. This hotel and that at the 
 lake are the most desirable in the Park for a pro- 
 tracted stay. 
 
 The Grand Cafion of the Yellowstone is acknowl- 
 edged by all beholders to stand without parallel 
 among the natural wonders of the globe. Other 
 cafions, the Yosernite, for example, have greater 
 depths and more imposing walls ; but there are none 
 which, in the words of Captain Ludlow, "unite more 
 potently the two requisites of majesty and beauty." 
 The canon itself is vast. A cross-section in the largest 
 part measures 2,000 feet at the top, 200 feet at the 
 bottom, and is 1,200 feet deep, giving an area of over 
 three acres. But such a gorge in any other part of 
 the world would not be what it is here. Its sides 
 w r ould soon be clothed with vegetation, and it would 
 be simply an immense valley, beautiful, no doubt, but 
 not what it is in the Yellowstone National Park. 
 
 There are three distinct features which unite their 
 peculiar glories to enhance the beauty of this canon. 
 These are the canon itself, the waterfall at its head, 
 and the river below. 
 
 It is the volcanic rock through which the river has 
 cut its way that gives the Grand Cafion its distinctive 
 character. It is preeminently a canon of color. The 
 hue has no existence which can not be found there. 
 " Hung up and let down and spread abroad are all the 
 
254 THE. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 colors of the land, sea, and sky," says Talmage, with- 
 out hyperbole. From the dark, forest-bordered brink, 
 the sides descend for the most part with the natural 
 slope of the loose rock, but frequently broken by ver- 
 tical ledges and isolated pinnacles, which give a castel- 
 lated and romantic air to the whole. Eagles build 
 their nests here, and soar midway through the vast 
 chasm, far below the beholder. The more prominent 
 of the projecting ledges cause many turns in the gen- 
 eral course of the cafion, and give numerous vantage 
 places for sight-seeing. Lookout Point is one of these, 
 half a mile below the Lower Falls. Inspiration Point, 
 some two miles farther down, is another. The gor- 
 geous coloring of the cafion walls does not extend 
 through its entire length of twenty miles. In the 
 lower portion, the forests have crept well down to the 
 water's edge. Still, it is every- where an extremely 
 beautiful and impressive sight. Along the bottom of 
 the canon, numerous steam vents can be seen, one of 
 which, it is said, exhibits geyseric action. In places, 
 the canon walls almost shut out the light of day from 
 the extreme bottom. Lieutenant Doane, who made 
 the dangerous descent several miles below the Falls, 
 records that " it was about three o'clock p. M., and 
 stars could be distincly seen, so much of the sunlight 
 was cut off from entering the chasm." 
 
 The Lower Fall of the Yellowstone must be placed 
 in the front rank of similar phenomnena. It carries 
 not one4wentieth the water of Niagara, but Niagara 
 is in no single part so beautiful. Its height is 310 
 feet. Its descent is very regular, slightly broken by 
 a point of rock on the right bank. A third of the fall 
 is hidden behind the vast doud of spray which for- 
 
'&?%&$ 
 
 Terry Knur. < b. j/,nmes, I'lioto., ,V. J'aul. 
 
 LOWER FALL OF THE YELLOWSTONE FROM BELOW. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 255 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 ORIGINAL SKETCH.* 
 
 ever conceals the mad play of the waters beneath ; 
 but the mighty turmoil of that recess in the rocks 
 may be judged from the deep-toned thunder which 
 
 * See foot-note, page 168. 
 
256 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 rises in ceaseless cadence and jars the air for miles 
 around. 
 
 To many visitors the stream far down in the bottom 
 of the canon is the crowning beauty of the whole 
 scene. It is so distant that its rapid course is dimin- 
 ished to the gentlest movement, and its continuous 
 roar to the subdued murmur of the pine forests. Its 
 winding, hide-and-seek course, its dark surface when 
 the shadows cover it, its bright limpid green under the 
 play of the sunlight, its ever recurring foam-white 
 patches, and particularly its display of life where all 
 around is silent and motionless, make it a thing of 
 entrancing beauty to all who behold it. 
 
 It is not strange that this canon has been a theme 
 for writer, painter, and photographer, from its dis- 
 covery to the present time. But at first thought it is 
 strange that all attempts to portray its beauties are 
 less satisfactory than those pertaining to any other 
 feature of the Park. The artist Moran acknowledged 
 that "its beautiful tints were beyond the reach of hu- 
 man art;" and General Sherman said of this artist's 
 celebrated effort: "The painting by Moran in the 
 Capitol is good, but painting and words are unequal 
 to the subject." 
 
 In photography, the number of pictures by profes- 
 sional and amateur artists, that have been made of 
 this canon is prodigious. But photography can only 
 reproduce the form, it is powerless in the presence of 
 such an array of colors as here exists. 
 
 The pen itself is scarcely more effective than the 
 pencil or camera. Folsom, who first wrote of the 
 canon, frankly owned that " language is entirely in- 
 adequate to convey a just conception of the awful 
 
".'" ' " //</.ve.>, I'/toto., fit. 1'uul. 
 
 LOWER FAI.I, OK THE YELLOWSTONE FROM ABOVE. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 257 
 
 grandeur and sublimity of this masterpiece of nature's 
 handiwork." Time has shown this confession to be 
 substantially true. From the clumsy work of the cas- 
 ual newspaper scribe, to the giddy flight of that emi- 
 nent clergyman, who fancied he saw in this canon a 
 suitable hall for the great judgment, with the nations 
 of the earth filing along the bottom upon waters " con- 
 gealed and transfixed with the agitations of that day," 
 all descriptions do injustice to their subject. They 
 fall short of their mark or overreach it. They are not 
 true to nature. We shall therefore pass them by, with 
 one exception, and shall commend our readers to a 
 study of this great wonderwork from the pine-clad 
 verge of the Grand Cafion itself. 
 
 The exception to which reference is made relates to 
 the Grand Canon in winter. It has been explained 
 in another place why it is that the winter scenery of the 
 Park must ever remain a sealed book except to those 
 few hardy adventurers who are willing to brave the 
 perils of winter travel in that region. It is a pleasure, 
 therefore, to give at first hand what one of those in- 
 trepid spirits felt as he stood upon Lookout Point less 
 than two years ago, and saw the famous canon clad in 
 its annual mantle of white. He says :.* 
 
 " I suppose thousands have stood grasping the stem 
 of that same sturdy, ragged tree, and have looked in si- 
 lence as we did. They have seen the canon in summer, 
 and I wish they might all see it also in the depth of win- 
 ter. Now the glorious colors of the walls were gone, 
 but the peaks and crosses and pinnacles were there, free 
 of all color, but done in clean, perfect white. It 
 
 * E. Hough, in Forest and Stream, June 30, 1894, p. 553. 
 
258 
 
 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 was " frozen music " the diapason of nature's might- 
 iest and most mysterious anthem all congealed in 
 white, visible, palpable, authentic. No thinking man 
 could stand there and not feel the exalted and com- 
 pelling theme go thrilling to his heart." 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. 
 
 TJ. S. Geological Surrey. 
 
 GRANITE BLOCK, NEAR INSPIRATION POINT. 
 
 Back perhaps a quarter of a mile from Inspiration 
 Point, but within fifty yards of the brink of the canon, 
 is a huge rectangular block of granite which rests 
 alone in the woods, a most singular and striking ob- 
 ject. It is evidently an intruder in unfamiliar ter- 
 ritory, for there is not a particle of granite out- 
 crop known to exist within twenty miles. It must 
 have been transported to this place from some dis- 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARJC. 259 
 
 tant quarry by the powerful agencies of the Glacial 
 Epoch. 
 
 To the eastward from the Grand Canon are several 
 interesting hot springs districts, and there is one 
 notable group at the southern base of Mount Wash- 
 burn. 
 
260 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 A TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 The Grand Canon of the Yellowstone to Junction Valley. 
 
 Distance twenty-two miles.* From the Grand 
 Canon north lies the true scenic portion of the tourist 
 route. Hitherto, the main attractions have been the 
 geyser basins, the Yellowstone Lake, and the Grand 
 Canon. The tourist has probably frequently expressed 
 his disappointment at not finding as much rugged 
 mountain scenery as he had expected. But from this 
 point on he will have no cause to complain. 
 
 ML Washburn (12 miles) is the most celebrated 
 peak in the Park, and the first to receive its present 
 name. Its prominence justifies its notoriety, but the 
 real cause of it is the fact that for eight years the 
 main tourist route lay across it. From its summit the 
 Washburn party received the first definite confirma- 
 tion .of the truth of the rumors that led them into 
 this region. All reports and magazine articles which 
 first gave a knowledge of the Park to the world were 
 written by persons who had crossed this mountain. 
 As the view from its summit is comprehensive and 
 grand, covering almost the entire Park, it of course 
 figured prominently in all narratives. Tourists fell 
 into the custom established by the first explorers, of 
 
 * The distances given in this chapter are only approximate, the 
 surveys for a wagon road from the canon to Mammoth Hot Springs, 
 via Mt. Washburn, not being yet completed. 
 
'/'(//// Klllll- 
 
 TOWER FALLS. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 261 
 
 leaving their cards in a receptacle for the purpose on 
 the summit. Many eminent names are to be seen 
 there. It is a matter for congratulation that the prog- 
 ress upon the road system will soon restore this moun- 
 tain to its former place in the tourist route. 
 
 Tower Falls (20 miles) is perhaps the most graceful 
 cataract in the Park, and should never be passed with- 
 out a visit. It is on Tower Creek only a short dis- 
 tance back from the Yellowstone. Lieutenant Doane 
 says in his report : * 
 
 " Nothing can be more chastely beautiful than this 
 lovely cascade, hidden away in the dim light of over- 
 shadowing rocks and woods, its very voice hushed to 
 a low murmur, unheard at the distance of a few hun- 
 dred yards. Thousands might pass by within a half 
 mile and not dream of its existence ; but once seen, 
 it passes to the list of most pleasant memories." 
 
 Near this point on both banks of the river are 
 numerous sulphur fumaroles, the last evidence of sub- 
 terraneous fire which the tourist will encounter on his 
 trip. A little way above the mouth of the stream is 
 the old Bannock Ford, the same by which Colter 
 crossed in 1807. It is the only practicable ford within 
 twenty miles in either direction. 
 
 Junction Butte (22 miles) is on the right bank of the 
 Yellowstone in the angle between that stream and the 
 East Fork. It stands not only near one of the most 
 important stream junctions in the Park, but also near 
 a not less important road junction. It is a very strik- 
 ing object. Its summit is nearly flat, and its sides 
 
 * Page 8, "Yellowstone Expedition of ]870." See Appen- 
 dix E. 
 
262 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 near the summit are perpendicular. Below this is a 
 steep slope composed of enormous masses of finely 
 broken stone disengaged from the cliff by the force 
 of the elements. It is a fitting landmark for its im- 
 portant situation. 
 
 Terry Engr. Co. U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories. 
 
 FIRST BRIDGE OVER THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 Baronetfs Bridge crosses the river immediately 
 opposite Junction Butte. It is the first and only 
 bridge yet (1895) built across the Yellowstone within 
 the limits of the Park. It was built by the well 
 known mountaineer, J. H. Baronett, in the spring of 
 1871, for the convenience of Clark's Fork miners. It 
 was partially destroyed by the Nez Perces in 1877, but 
 was repaired by Howard's command, and still further 
 repaired the following year by Baronett and Norris. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 263 
 
 In 1880, it was replaced by a more substantial struc- 
 ture. At present it enjoys the unique distinction of 
 being a private toll bridge on a government reserva- 
 tion. 
 
 Junction Valley* described elsewhere, is a name 
 properly applicable to the valley inclosed by Crescent 
 Hill, Mt. Washburn, Specimen Ridge, and the moun- 
 tains north of Lamar River. This valley, and those 
 of tributary streams, form the largest treeless tract in 
 the Park. 
 
 Amethyst Mountain, Specimen Ridge, and the Fossil 
 Forests are names at once suggestive of the action of 
 geological agencies which have been described in an- 
 other chapter. Amethyst, limpid quartz, milky quartz, 
 chalcedony, carnelian, prase, chrysoprase, banded 
 agate, flint, jaspers of all colors, semi-opal, calcite, and 
 many other varieties abound. The forest petrifactions 
 present one of the most interesting scientific problems 
 in the Park. 
 
 The Lamar River Canon (7 miles above Junction 
 Butte) is a gorge about half a mile long, the chief 
 characteristic of which is the enormous number and 
 size of boulders which have fallen into it. These are 
 almost spherical in shape, and, in many instances, are 
 as smooth as if from the hand of a stone glazier. 
 They are piled up like billiard balls, to such a depth 
 
 * The popular name for this locality is " Yancey's," from John 
 Yancey, who has long held a lease in the Valley of Lost Creek at 
 the foot of Crescent Hill. He has kept a sort of hotel or stop- 
 ping place for the convenience of travelers to Cooke City, as well 
 as for tourists between the Grand Canon and Mammoth Hot 
 Springs by way of Mt. Washburn. 
 
264 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 that the stream flows entirely out of sight beneath 
 them.* 
 
 Soda Butte (15 miles above Junction Butte) and 
 Soda Butte Canon, extending from Soda Butte to 
 Cooke City, are worthy of much attention. The 
 canon in particular is as wonderful a bit of scenery as 
 any mountains afibrd. It is every-where rugged, ma- 
 jestic and imposing, and there is no point in its 
 twelve miles length that does not present a landscape 
 deserving of the tourist's careful study. Mr. "W. H. 
 Weed, who has done much work in the Park, and 
 particularly in this section, says of this valley : 
 
 " To the eastward Soda Butte Valley penetrates the 
 heart of the rugged Sierra, whose high peaks rise in 
 castellated forms. The visitor, disappointed perhaps 
 in the mountain scenery of the Park, after traveling 
 the usual route over the dusty roads of the Park pla- 
 teau, will here find mountain views that are sure to 
 fulfill his expectations, while the neighborhood is not 
 lacking in curiosities that in another land would at- 
 tract visitors from far and wide."f 
 
 Cooke City is a small mining camp just outside the 
 north-east corner of the Park in the midst of the 
 Clark's Fork mining district. It is of interest in this 
 connection only on account of its notorious hostility 
 to the Yellowstone National Park. 
 
 Death Gulch, reputed to exist in the valley of Cache 
 Creek, is like Bridger's Glass Mountain, mostly a 
 product of the imagination. It seems that some 
 
 * Above the head of this canon are the remains of what seems 
 to have once been a bridge, but no record concerning it has come 
 to the writer's notice. 
 
 t Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. See Appendix E. 
 
A TOUR OF THE PARK. 265 
 
 animals were once poisoned there, and that later, cer- 
 tain explorers, finding them, attributed their death to 
 an escape of carbonic acid gas from the earth. The 
 name has found its way into maps and reports of 
 highest authority, but the object itself has no exist- 
 ence. 
 
 The Hoodoo Region is near the head of Miller Creek 
 just outside the original reservation, although within 
 the Forest Reserve addition. This mysterious region 
 furnishes probably the most striking example in 
 existence of the effects of erosion and wind action 
 upon masses of moderately soft rock. The region 
 was discovered by miners in 1870, but was first ex- 
 plored and reported upon by Colonel Norris in 1880, 
 who thus describes it : * 
 
 " Nearly every form, animate or inanimate, real or 
 chimerical, ever actually seen or conjured by the im- 
 agination, may here be observed. Language does not 
 suffice to properly describe these peculiar formations; 
 sketches may probably do something, and photographs 
 more, to convey a conception of their remarkable 
 character, but actual observation is absolutely neces- 
 sary to adequately impress the mind with the wild, 
 unearthly appearance of these eroded Koodoos of the 
 Goblin Land. These monuments are from fifty to 
 two or three hundred feet in height, with narrow, 
 tortuous passages between them, which sometimes are 
 tunnels through permanent snow or ice fields, where 
 the big-horn sheep hide in safety ; while the ceaseless 
 but ever changing moans of the wild winds seem to 
 
 * Page 8, Annual Report, Superintendent of the Park, for the 
 year 1880. 
 
266 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 chant fitting requiems to these gnome-like monuments 
 of the legendary Indian gods." 
 
 Returning to Junction Valley, and following down 
 the Yellowstone, the tourist soon arrives at the Third 
 Canon (the third above Livingston, the Grand Cation 
 being fourth), which extends from the eastern limit 
 of Junction Valley to the north boundary of the Park. 
 Located anywhere else, away from the overshadowing 
 splendor of the Grand Canon, it would become cele- 
 brated. Some of the views, particularly from the 
 high ground north of Mt. Everts, overlooking by 
 nearly 2,000 feet the vast chasm through which the 
 turbulent river flows, are among the most impressive 
 in the entire region. 
 
 From the immediate vicinity of the Third Cafioii, 
 the road crosses the plateau of Black Tail Deer Creek 
 to the valley of the East Gardiner. The tour termi- 
 nates at Mammoth Hot Springs. 
 
HOSTILITY TO THE PARK. 267 
 
 PART III. The Future. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 HOSTILITY TO THE PARK. 
 
 From what has been thus far set forth the reader can 
 not have failed to observe how fortunate have been the 
 events, both in prehistoric and in recent times, which 
 have made the Yellowstone National Park what it is 
 to-day. In the course of long ages Nature developed 
 this region into its present attractive form, and filled 
 it with wonders which will never fail to command the 
 admiration of men. She placed it upon the very apex 
 of the continent, and made of it an inexhaustible re- 
 servoir of water for a perennial supply to the parched 
 and rainless desert around it. She interspersed among 
 its forests an abundance of parks and valleys, where 
 the native fauna of the continent, elsewhere fast pass- 
 ing away, may find protection in all future time. With 
 infinite foresight she made it unfit for the gainful oc- 
 cupations of men, so that every motive to appropriate 
 it for private use is removed. 
 
 For many years after the white man first looked 
 within its borders, a rare combination of circumstances 
 prevailed to keep it from becoming generally known 
 until the time had arrived when the government could 
 effectually reserve it from settlement. Finally, since 
 its formal erection into a public park, the same good 
 fortune has attended it, in spite of many adverse in- 
 
268 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 fluences, until it has become thoroughly intrenched in 
 the good opinion of the people. 
 
 So fully has the experience of the past quarter cen- 
 tury confirmed the wisdom of setting apart this region 
 for public uses, that it ought no longer to be necessary 
 to say a word in favor of its continued preservation. 
 To most people it will seem impossible that there 
 should be any one who would seek the mutilation or 
 destruction of this important reservation. Unfortun- 
 ately there are many such. No session of Congress 
 for twenty years has been free from attempted legisla- 
 tion hostile to the Park. The schemes to convert it 
 into an instrument of private greed have been many, 
 and strange as it may seem, they are invariably put 
 forward by those very communities to whom the Park 
 is, and must ever remain, the chief glory of their sec- 
 tion. It is a lamentable proof of the dearth of patri- 
 otic spirit that always betrays itself whenever the in- 
 terests of individuals and of the public come into 
 collision. Nevertheless it is a great satisfaction to 
 know that this spirit of hostility is confined to an in- 
 finitesimal portion of the whole people. Excepting a 
 few mine owners and their following, a handful of 
 poachers, one or two railroad corporations, and a few 
 greedy applicants for special franchises, the people of 
 the country are a unit in favor of the strictest preser- 
 vation of this great national pleasure ground. No 
 better proof of this can bo had than the fact that the 
 Park has successfully withstood for so long a period 
 every attack that has been made upon it. 
 
 It will not do, however, to assume that, because 
 these schemes have hitherto failed, they will always 
 
HOSTILITY TO THE PARK. 
 
 continue to fail. Since they have their origin in spec- 
 ulative ventures, they will be put forward so long as 
 they otfer the least pecuniary inducement. The cer- 
 tainty of this, and the danger of their ultimate success, 
 justify the assignment of a brief space to a considera- 
 tion of this subject. 
 
270 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 RAILROAD ENCROACHMENT AND CHANGE OF BOUNDARY. 
 
 Nearly all of the enterprises that have, been put 
 forward in opposition to the true interests of the 
 Reservation partake of the nature of railroad en- 
 croachment. Without entering into the merits of 
 particular projects, it will be sufficient to explain in 
 general terms the reasons why the government has 
 always opposed them. 
 
 Railroads in the Yellowstone Park are objection- 
 able because : 
 
 (1.) They will mar, and in places destroy, that nat- 
 ural condition which is one of its greatest charms. 
 From the first it has been the wish of those who know 
 any thing of the Yellowstone that it should remain 
 as nature made it. The instructions of the Interior 
 Department to the first Superintendent of the Park, 
 two months after the Act of Dedication became a 
 law, thus announced the policy of the government 
 upon this subject : 
 
 " It is not the desire of the Department that any 
 attempts shall be made to beautify or adorn this 
 reservation, but merely to preserve from injury or 
 spoliation the timber, mineral deposits, and various 
 curiosities of that region, eo far as possible, in their 
 natural condition." 
 
 It requires no argument to show that nothing would 
 so interfere with this natural condition as the con- 
 struction of a railroad through that country ; and the 
 
RAILROAD ENCROACHMENT, ETC. 271 
 
 danger involved in these projects early became ap- 
 parent to all who were well acquainted with the 
 situation. As early as 1883, Lieutenant Kingman 
 thus refers to this subject in his annual report, 
 wherein he describes his proposed road system for 
 the Park : 
 
 " The plan tor improvement which I have submit- 
 ted is given in the earnest hope and upon the suppo- 
 sition that it [the Park] will be preserved as nearly as 
 may be as the hand of nature left it a source of 
 pleasure to all who visit it, and a source of wealth to 
 no one. If the Park ever becomes truly popular 
 and national, it will be when the people come to 
 know and appreciate its delightful summer climate, 
 the wonderful efficiency of its baths and its mineral 
 waters, as well as the natural wonders, beauties and 
 curiosities to be seen there. Then, if there are nu- 
 merous small, quiet hotels scattered here and there 
 throughout the Park, wh^ere visitors can have plain 
 and simple accommodations at moderate prices, the 
 overworked and the sick, as well as the curious, will 
 come here, not to be awed by the great falls and as- 
 tounded by the geysers, and then to go away, but will 
 come here and will remain for weeks and months, 
 and will find what they seek, rest, recreation and 
 health. But if it ever becomes the resort of fashion, 
 if its forests are stripped to rear mammoth hotels, if 
 the race-course, the drinking saloon and gambling-table 
 invade it, if its valleys are scarred by railroads, and 
 its hills pierced by tunnels, if its purity and quiet are 
 destroyed and broken by the noise and smoke of 
 the locomotive ; . . . then it will cease to belong 
 to the whole people, and will interest only those that 
 
272 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 it helps to enrich, and will be unworthy the care and 
 protection of the National Government." 
 
 The history of the twelve years since the above was 
 written confirms in every point this forcible presenta- 
 tion of the case. 
 
 (2.) Railroads will unavoidably seriously cripple 
 the present tourist routes. They must of necessity 
 occupy the valleys. But it is through these that the 
 tourist route passes, and it is frequently the case that 
 they are not wide enough for both. In many cases 
 'the roadway would be forced back upon the hills, 
 and in others its present location would have to be 
 changed. It is certain that the admirable system of 
 roads, which the government is slowly working out, 
 would receive irreparable injury at the hands of any 
 railroad which might be built through that region. 
 
 (3.) Railroads would mean the inevitable destruc- 
 tion of the large game. The winter snows are too 
 deep among the hills for game to subsist there. It is 
 necessary to come down into the valleys, where there is 
 more grass and less snow. But, as already stated, it 
 is through these valleys that railroads must pass if at 
 all. The trains would frighten the animals back into 
 the hills, where starvation would await them. More- 
 over, the loss of game from poaching would be greatly 
 aggravated by the increased facility of clandestine ac- 
 cess to that regio.n. 
 
 (4.) Railroads would destroy the Park forests. Dur- 
 ing July, August, and September, there are always 
 long periods of dry weather when the dense bodies of 
 fallen timber, the impenetrable tangles of underbrush, 
 and the luxuriant prairie grass are a mass of inflam- 
 mable tinder. A spark converts it into a conflagra- 
 
RAILROAD ENCROACHMENT, ETC. 273 
 
 tion. A railroad winding its way through this coun- 
 try would render protection against fires, even now a 
 matter of great difficulty, wholly out of the question. 
 Referring to this subject in his annual report for 1894, 
 the Superintendent of the Park says : 
 
 " Six months from the entrance of the first locomo- 
 tive within the limits of the Park, there will not be 
 one acre of its magnificent forests left unburned." 
 
 What such a catastrophe would mean to the future 
 development of the surrounding country may be ap- 
 preciated by a perusal of our chapter on the Flora of 
 the Yellowstone. 
 
 (5.) As a matter of public policy, the granting of a 
 railway franchise in the Park is objectionable because 
 it necessarily creates a perpetual monopoly of a public 
 privilege. There is no practicable way to avoid it. 
 It has been proposed to compel the railroad to share 
 the advantage of this monopoly with the public, by 
 paying a certain percentage of earnings on its Park 
 business to constitute an improvement fund. With 
 Union Pacific history fresh in the public mind, the 
 government will not be likely to enter into a partner- 
 ship of that precarious nature. 
 
 From the foregoing exposition, it is clear that only 
 the most cogent reasons should ever sanction the con- 
 struction of railroads in the Yellowstone Park. These 
 reasons, from the standpoint of the railroad com- 
 panies, as set forth by the promoters of a recent bill 
 before Congress, fall under two heads. 
 
 In the first place, it is speciously urged that a rail- 
 road would render the Park more accessible, cheapen 
 the cost of visiting it, and make it fulfill more per- 
 fectly its original design as a park for the people. To 
 
274 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 all this it may be replied that the people do not want 
 the improvement at the price they must pay for it. 
 By an almost unanimous voice they oppose it. It is 
 true that the Park is not as accessible as one might 
 wish it to be, or as it soon will be. But to make it 
 easily accessible, it is by no means necessary that a 
 railroad should pass through it. A line touching the 
 southern boundary and communicating with the cen- 
 tral portions of the country would answer every prac- 
 tical purpose. The pretext that a railroad across the 
 Reservation will greatly aid the tourist is erroneous. 
 The points of interest are so scattered about that a 
 coach would be in any case a necessity, and all the 
 railroad would really save to the tourist would be the 
 distance from the boundary to the belt line. 
 
 Neither will such a railroad materially lessen the 
 cost of a visit, which has always been, and will always 
 be, in the main, getting to that region. The Reserva- 
 tion is 1,500 miles from the center of population of 
 the country, and it is this remote location that makes 
 visiting it cost. The outlay after getting there is 
 trifling in comparison with that of coming and going. 
 Whether a railroad pass though the Park, or simply 
 touch its southern border, will not appreciably affect 
 this principal item. 
 
 In the second place, it is urged that the Park stands 
 directly in the path of the railroads and so " acts as a 
 blockade to the development of three large states." 
 As this will always form the staple argument for 
 granting a right-of-way for railroads across the Reser- 
 vation, it will be well to scrutinize it somewhat care- 
 fully. 
 
 It is not at all a question of whether the country 
 
RAILROAD ENCROACHMENT, ETC. 275 
 
 about the Park is at present sufficiently supplied with 
 railroads. The important question is : Will any 
 portion of this territory be better served by a rail- 
 road that may be built across the Reservation than 
 by one coming from another direction? The most 
 superficial examination of the map, even by one not 
 personally acquainted with the country, will answer 
 this question in the negative. The Yellowstone Val- 
 ley on the north, the Bighorn Valley on the east, the 
 Jackson Lake country on the south, and the Madison 
 and Henry Fork Valleys on the west, find their nat- 
 ural outlets by routes not passing through the Yel- 
 lowstone Park. A railroad entering the Park on one 
 side through a lofty wall of mountains, and leaving it 
 on the other through a similar wall, after traversing 
 the inclosed plateau for a distance of perhaps seventy- 
 five or one hundred miles, would be almost as much 
 lost to the country outside as if for this whole distance 
 it were built through a tunnel. In fact, the true wel- 
 fare both of the Park and of the surrounding country 
 would be best served by a line passing through the 
 Wind River Valley, across one of the easy passes into 
 the Valley of the Snake, and thence along the south- 
 ern border of the Park, past Jackson Lake and the 
 northern spur of the Teton Range, into the valleys of 
 Idaho and Montana. This would give the Park a 
 needed southern approach, and would directly serve a 
 vast tract of territory. Tributary either to this line, 
 or to one north of the Park, or to both, another would 
 soon be built along the extensive Valley of the Big- 
 horn. No imaginable route across the National Park 
 <;ould so well subserve both local and public interests. 
 
276 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 From an engineering point of view, the Yellowstone 
 Park is poor railroad country. It could be crossed, 
 to be sure, but not easily, and not at all except by 
 monopolizing portions of the tourist route. The long 
 winter season of nearly seven months would interpose 
 an almost insuperable obstacle to the successful opera- 
 tion of any line which might be built. "We quote 
 again from the report of the Park Superintendent for 
 the year 1894 : 
 
 " The great amount of moisture furnished by the 
 lake and its numerous tributaries gives a mantle of 
 snow that will average fifteen feet in depth, and with 
 the strong winds prevailing in this mountainous coun- 
 try-no railroad could be kept running during the six 
 months of winter without being entirely inclosed in 
 snow sheds, which would prove destructive to the nat- 
 ural beauty of the Park." 
 
 In short, it is certain that, were it not for the special 
 inducements which a monopoly of Park travel offers, 
 no railroad could afford to locate its line across that 
 territory. 
 
 Closely related to this general subject is that of build- 
 ing an electric line for tourist transportation within 
 the Park. It is at once apparent that the objections 
 to such a railroad are much less formidable than to 
 one operated by steam locomotives. The danger of 
 fire is eliminated. The unsightly character of an or- 
 dinary railway outfit is exchanged for attractive tour- 
 ist cars. The power plant, being located in canons 
 and operated by water, would give no outward evi- 
 dence of its existence. There being no long trains 
 of cars, no smoke, no screeching of locomotives, the 
 game would not be much more frightened by it than. 
 
RAILROAD ENCROACHMENTS, ETC. 277 
 
 by the stage coaches. In winter, traffic would be 
 suspended and the game would be undisturbed on the 
 ranges. The line, by its greater speed, would be a 
 convenience to tourists having but a short time at 
 their disposal, and also to those, infirm in health, who 
 find the long stage rides fatiguing. 
 
 Such are the merits of an electric railway for tour- 
 ist transportation in this country. If the people really 
 desired it, and if it could be built and operated by the 
 government, so as to exclude as far as possible all cor- 
 porate management of Park business, there would be 
 no serious objection to the project. Of course it 
 should never be permitted, as some times proposed, to 
 use the present wagon roads. These must not in any 
 event be interfered with. 
 
 The question then is, Do the people desire this 
 kind of transportation ? Fortunately we can answer 
 this question with authority. In 1892, a vote upon it 
 was obtained from the tourists of that season. The 
 result was a majority of more than five to one against 
 it. In giving their votes, tourists frequently went be- 
 yond the specific question at issue to express their 
 emphatic disapproval of the construction of any kind 
 of railroad in the Park. The whole result was a 
 gratifying proof of the deep-seated interest of the 
 people in this Reservation, and of their unalterable 
 wish that it remain forever free from the handiwork 
 of man. In fact, to almost every body in these days, 
 a coaching tour like that through the Yellowstone, is 
 a decided novelty. There is no other place in this 
 country, probably not in the world, where one ap- 
 proaching it can be had. The people enjoy it. They 
 wound prefer to see it developed and perfected, rather 
 
278 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 than replaced by the noisy car, to get away from which 
 they have come so far. 
 
 In the long and fruitless struggle to secure rights- 
 of-way for railroads, the promoters of these projects 
 have resorted to various indirect methods the most 
 noteworthy of which is a proposal to change the 
 boundary line of the Park. We have elsewhere ex- 
 plained how this boundary was originally determined. 
 For a random line, which of necessity it largely was, 
 it was a most excellent one. JSTo one would have been 
 dissatisfied with it were it not that it was subsequently 
 found to stand in the way of certain private enter- 
 prises. 
 
 When it became apparent that the government 
 would never consent to the construction of a railroad 
 within the Park, it was sought to compass the same 
 end by cutting oft' all that portion of the Reservation 
 lying outside of, and including, the proposed right-of- 
 way. 
 
 In accordance with the proverbial policy of indi- 
 rection which characterizes schemes of this sort, the 
 real purpose of this proposition is always veiled under 
 a beneficent guise, intended to make its promoters 
 appear as zealous guardians of the Park, rather than 
 what they really are conspirators for its destruction. 
 The proposed change of boundary is ostensibly based 
 upon the alleged necessity of having a natural bound- 
 ary that is, a boundary along the courses of streams. 
 The present line, it is urged, is unmarked and no one 
 knows where it is. A stream is a definite, visible line,, 
 seen and known by every one.* 
 
 It is of course unnecessary to point out that an artificial line 
 
RAILROAD ENCROACHMENTS, ETC. 279 
 
 The pernicious fallacy that lurks in this argument is 
 plainly visible if we look a little beneath the sur- 
 face. Never permit the boundaries of the Yellowstone Park 
 to be brought down into the valleys. Nature has indeed 
 built the proper boundaries ; but they are mountain 
 ranges, not valleys. A thousand Chinese walls heaped 
 together would not form a barrier like the Absarokas 
 on the east, the Snowy Range on the north, the Gal- 
 atin Range on the west, and the Tetons and the Big 
 Game Ridge on the south. Along the present bound- 
 ary line there are very few places where it is possible 
 to build human habitations. No poacher or law 
 breaker can there fix his stealthy abode ready at a 
 favorable opportunity to dash across it. But if it were 
 in the bottom of the valleys, a whole colony of these 
 dangerous individuals would soon infest every border 
 of the Park. Police surveillance, in any case ex- 
 tremely difficult, would then be well-nigh impossible. 
 No ! "Whatever changes may be made in the bound- 
 ary of the Park, let it always be kept among the 
 mountain tops. 
 
 What the success of any of these projects to cut off, 
 or segregate, portions of the Park would mean, may be 
 judged from a single instance that, namely, of the 
 north-east corner of the Park. In this strip of terri- 
 tory are some of the finest scenery and most interest- 
 can easily be marked so that there shall be no uncertainty about 
 its location. The hollowness of purpose on the part of those who 
 propose this argument is disclosed by the fact that-, of the 280 
 miles, more or less, in the proposed boundary, they provide a nat- 
 ural line for only about 50 miles or along that precise portion 
 where they want to build a railroad. All the rest of the way an 
 artificial line is good enough ! 
 
280 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 ing scientific curiosities to be found upon the Reser- 
 vation. It is the great winter grazing ground for the 
 elk, and by estimate based upon actual count no fewer 
 than 20,000 of these noble animals find their winter 
 subsistence here. That all of this game would be al- 
 most instantly annihilated by the segregation of this 
 strip goes without saying. More than this, the ad- 
 mission to the very heart of the Park of that class 
 of reckless characters, who even now are its greatest 
 source of danger, would vastly enhance the difficulty 
 of protecting the remaining portions. 
 
 It is well to emphasize by repetition the few im- 
 portant facts pertaining to this question : 
 
 (1.) There are no private interests on the borders 
 of the Park whose development is jeopardized by the 
 refusal of the government to give access to them by 
 a railroad across the Reservation. They can all be 
 reached from the outside without encountering greater 
 obstacles than have been overcome in scores of other 
 places throughout the West. 
 
 (2.) There is no need of a railroad in the Park so 
 far as the comfort or advantage of the tourists is con- 
 cerned. A line along the southern border would an- 
 swer quite as well, and would serve the surrounding 
 country better. 
 
 (3.) There is no occasion to construct an electric 
 line in the Park. Nearly all of those who visit that 
 region oppose it. 
 
 (4.) There is no necessity for changing the present 
 boundaries of the Reservation. 
 
CONCLUSION. 281 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 It is in respect of the foregoing matters that the 
 Yellowstone National Park has most to fear. The 
 general public, although always in favor of its preser- 
 vation, knows nothing of the merit of these various 
 projects. A bill is introduced in Congress in the in- 
 terest of some private enterprise. It is supported' by 
 representations and statistics gotten up for the occa- 
 sion. There may be no one at hand to refute them, 
 and they are the only information upon which Con- 
 gress can act. More than once these bills have been 
 reported favorably from committee, when every essen- 
 tial statement in the committee's report was contrary 
 to fact. Unless some friend of the Park is present, 
 ready and willing to devote time, and perhaps money, 
 to its' defense, there is only too much danger that 
 these measures will eventually prove successful. 
 
 Thus far, the Park has never been lacking in such 
 friends; and there is no more encouraging fact in its 
 history than this, that some one has always been on 
 guard against any thing which might w T ork to its in- 
 jury. Men like Senator Vest in official position, or 
 William Hallett Phillips in private life, and journals 
 like Forest and Stream, have stood for years, in a 
 purely public-spirited manner, without remunerative 
 inducement of any sort, and often in face of the bit- 
 terest vituperation and abuse, against the designs of 
 selfish and unscrupulous schemers. In like manner, 
 
282 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 government officials connected with the Park have 
 always, with one or two exceptions, earnestly opposed 
 these dangerous projects. It is plain to any one who 
 is familiar with its inside history, that, but for the 
 agencies just mentioned, there would not be to-day 
 any Yellowstone Park at all. It is equally plain, that 
 so long as friends like these are forthcoming, the Park 
 has little to fear from its enemies. 
 
 In still another respect, the Park has been unfortu- 
 nate where it had a right to expect better things. 
 Prior to the admission of Montana, Wyoming, and 
 Idaho into the Union of States, its interests were 
 looked after in Congress, particularly in the Senate, 
 by a few members who took great pride in promot- 
 ing its welfare. But when the above territories were 
 admitted to the Union, these gentlemen very natu- 
 rally turned over the charge, which they had volun- 
 tarily assumed, to the members from the new States, 
 as being thereafter its proper guardians. It was, of 
 course, believed that in them, if in any one, the Park 
 would find needed championship and protection. It 
 is a matter of great regret that these very reasonable 
 expectations have not been realized. A glance at the 
 list of bills pertaining to the Yellowstone National 
 Park, w r hich have been presented to Congress in the 
 past six years, will show that nearly every objection- 
 able measure has been fathered by the very men 
 whose first duty would seem to have been to oppose 
 them. In a speech opposing the Segregation Project, 
 delivered in the Senate in the winter of 1892-3, Sen- 
 ator Vest referred to this subject with justifiable indig- 
 nation. He said : 
 
 " When those States [Montana, Wyoming, and 
 Idaho] were territories, and not represented in the 
 
CONCLUSION. 283 
 
 Senate, I considered it the duty of every Senator, as 
 this Park belonged to all the people of the United 
 States, ... to defend its integrity, and to keep 
 it for the purposes for which it was originally de- 
 signed. Since Senators have come from those States, 
 who, of course, must be supposed to know more 
 about that Park than those of us who live at a dis- 
 tance, and since they have manifested a disposition to 
 mutilate it, I must confess that my interest in it has 
 rather flagged, and I feel very much disposed, in plain 
 language, to wash my hands of the whole business. 
 If the constituencies, who are more benefited than 
 any others can possibly be in the Park, are willing to 
 see it cut off', the best disposition of the matter would 
 be to turn it open to the public, let the full greed and 
 avarice of the country have their scope, let the geysers 
 be divided out and taken for the purpose of washing 
 clothes, ... let the water of that splendid water- 
 fall in the Yellowstone River be used to turn machin- 
 ery, let the timber be cut off'; in other words, destroy 
 the Park,' and make it a sacrifice to the greed of this 
 advanced age in which we live." 
 
 It is only fair to say that generally these members 
 do not personally favor the measures to which they 
 lend official countenance and comfort. One can find 
 a practical, if not a morally justifiable, excuse for their 
 course in the exigencies of political life which too often 
 constrain men to official action not in accordance with 
 their private judgment. Unquestionably, a majority 
 of the people of these young and enterprising states 
 are immovably opposed to any thing which may tend 
 to mutilate or destroy this important reservation ; and 
 it is not believed that their broader patriotism will 
 
284 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 ever be overridden by the narrow and perverted wishes 
 of a few straggling constituencies.* 
 
 Finally, the effect of a single evil precedent upon 
 the future of the Park must be kept constantly in 
 mind. The door once opened, though by never so 
 small a degree, can not again be closed; but will 
 sooner or later be thrown wide open. A privilege 
 granted to one can not be denied to another. If one 
 corner of the Park is cut off, other portions will share 
 the same fate. If one railroad is granted a right of 
 way across the reservation, another can not be refused. 
 The only way to avoid these dangers is to keep the 
 door entirely closed. 
 
 There is now but little real need of further positive 
 legislation. Some provision should of course be made 
 for an adequate police force, and ample means should 
 be provided to perfect the system of roads. . Happily 
 this duty involves no appreciable burden. It requires 
 no continuing outlay to " beautify and adorn." And 
 when it is done, the further policy of the government 
 toward the Park should be strictly negative, designed 
 solely to preserve it unimpaired, as its founders in- 
 tended, for the "benefit and enjoyment" of succeed- 
 ing generations. 
 
 * The almost prophetic warning of Captain Harris in his last 
 report as Superintendent of the Park has a peculiar force in this 
 connection : 
 
 "In my experience in connection with this National Park, 1 
 have been very forcibly impressed with the danger to which it is 
 subjected by the greed of private enterprise. All local influence 
 centers in schemes whereby the Park can be used for pecuniary 
 advantage. In the unsurpassed grandeur of its natural condition, 
 it is the pride and glory of the nation ; but if, under the guise of 
 improvement, selfish interests are permitted to make merchandise 
 of its wonders and beauties, it will inevitably become a by-word 
 and a reproach." 
 
APPENDIX A. 
 
 GEOGRAPHICAL NAMES IN THE YELLOWSTONE 
 NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 In common experience, the importance of geograpnical 
 names lies in their use as a means of identification, To de- 
 scribe an object there must be a name, and for this purpose 
 one name is as good as another. But if the reason be sought 
 why a particular name happened to be selected, it will gener- 
 ally be found to arise, not from this practical necessity, but 
 from some primary fact or tradition, or from some distin- 
 guished character, in the annals of the community where it 
 occurs. In its mountains and valleys, its lakes and streams, 
 and in its civil divisions, the cradle history of a country may 
 always be found recorded. 
 
 In newly-discovered countries, the naming of geographical 
 features is the dearest prerogative of the explorer, as it is also 
 the one most liable to abuse from personal vanity or egotism. 
 The desire to attach his name, or those of his personal friends, 
 to the prominent land-marks of the globe, where the eye of 
 posterity may never escape them, is a weakness from which 
 no discoverer has yet shown himself free. 
 
 In a region like the Yellowstone National Park, destined 
 for all time to be a resort for the lovers of science and pleas- 
 ure, this temptation was quite irresistible ; so much so, that, 
 when the expeditious of 1870 and 1871 left the field, they 
 
 (285) 
 
286 APPENDIX A. 
 
 left little worth naming behind them. And yet the honor 
 thus gained has not, we venture to say, been all that its vota- 
 ries desired. Small is the number of tourists who stop to in- 
 quire for whom Mary Lake, DeLacy Creek, or Stevenson 
 Island was named. Fewer still are aware that Mt. Everts 
 was not christened in honor of a distinguished American 
 statesman of similar name, but in commemoration of one of 
 the most thrilling individual experiences in American history. 
 So with all these personal names. The lively satisfaction 
 with wh'ich they were given finds no counterpart in the lan- 
 guid indifference with which the modern visitor mechanically 
 repeats them. 
 
 In as much as it fell to the lot of the United States Geolog- 
 ical Survey to originate a great many of the names in our 
 western geography, it is interesting to know from official 
 sources the principles which governed in this important work. 
 Writing upon this point, Dr. Hayden says:* 
 
 "In attaching names to the many mountain peaks, new 
 streams, and other geographical localities, the discovery of 
 whicli falls to the pleasant lot of the explorer in the untrod- 
 den wilds of the West, I have followed the rigid law of pri- 
 ority, and given the one by which they have been generally 
 known among the people of the country, whether whites or 
 Indians ; but if, as is often the case, no suitable descriptive 
 name can be secured from the surroundings, a personal one 
 may then be attached, and the names of eminent men who 
 have identified themselves with the great cause, either in the 
 fields of science or legislation, naturally rise first in the 
 mind." 
 
 In the more recent and thorough survey of the Park by the 
 United States Geological Survey, it became necessary to pro- 
 vide names for those subordinate features which, in a less re- 
 stricted field, the early explorers had thought unworthy of 
 
 *Page 8, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
INTRODUCTORY. 287 
 
 notice. Professor Arnold Hague, upon whom this work has 
 principally fallen, thus states the rule which he has followed : * 
 
 " In consultation with Mr. Henry Gannett, geologist in 
 charge of geography, it was agreed that the necessary new 
 names to designate the unnamed mountains, valleys, and 
 streams should be mainly selected from the beasts, birds, 
 fishes, trees, flowers, aud minerals found within the Park or 
 the adjacent country." 
 
 The christening of the hot springs and geysers of the Park 
 has been singularly fortunate. The names are in all cases 
 characteristic. They are not studied efforts, but are simply 
 the spontaneous utterances from first impressions by those 
 who had never seen, and had heard but little of, similar 
 phenomena. It is doubtful if the most careful study could 
 improve them, aud tourists will agree with General Poe who 
 referred as follows to this subject when he visited the Park in 
 1877 :f 
 
 "The region of these geysers has been rightly named Fire 
 Hole, and one almost wonders that in this country, where the 
 tendency is to name natural objects after men who have a 
 temporary prominence, this interesting place and its assem- 
 blage of wonders should have so completely escaped, and in 
 general and in particular received names so very appro- 
 priate." 
 
 In the race for the geographical honors of the Park, the 
 prize fell neither to the United States Geological Survey nor 
 even to Colonel Norris, though each was a close competitor. 
 It was won by that mythical potentate of whose sulphurous 
 empire this region is thought by some to be simply an out- 
 lying province. Starting with " Colter's Hell," the list grew 
 until it contained "Hell Roaring Creek," "Hell Broth 
 
 * Page 152, Part I, Annual Report United States Geological Sur- 
 vey for year ending June 30, 1887. 
 
 t Page 79, " Inspection made in the Summer of 1877, etc." See 
 Appendix E. 
 
288 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Springs," "Hell's Half Acre," "Satan's Arbor," and the 
 Devil's "Den," "Workshop," "Kitchen," "Stairway," 
 " Slide," " Caldron," " Punch Bowl," " Frying Pan," " Well," 
 " Elbow," " Thumb," " Inkstand," etc., etc. It is some satis- 
 faction to know that this rude and fiery nomenclature is grad- 
 ually falling into disuse. 
 
 In a measure from sympathy with the purpose of the early 
 name-givers, and to help those who take an interest in such 
 matters to know when, by whom, and why the geographical 
 names of the Park were given, a complete list of these names, 
 with a few from adjacent territory, has been prepared. The 
 letters and numbers immediately after the names (except 
 those in parentheses) give marginal references on the map to 
 facilitate identification. The date of christening and the 
 name of the christening party next follow. When these can 
 not now be determined with precision, the work is credited 
 to the authors of the map upon which they first appear. 
 Next comes whatever account is discoverable of the origin of 
 the names, authority being quoted, as far as possible, from 
 the writings of whoever bestowed them. Wherever an object 
 was named from some natural characteristic, as its form, color, 
 composition, or other peculiarity, or from the birds, beasts, 
 fishes, insects, trees, flowers, shrubs or minerals of the Park, 
 the single word "characteristic" denotes the fact. The ab- 
 breviation "U. S. G. S." is for "United States Geological 
 Survey." 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES, ETC. 289 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 II. 
 
 MOUNTAIN RANGES, PEAKS, BUTTES, RIDGES, HILLS. 
 
 [The numbers in parentheses denote elevations. These are 
 taken from the latest map by the United States Geological Sur- 
 vey, and are the same as that of the one hundred foot contour 
 nearest the summit. The true elevation of the ultimate peak is 
 in each case slightly greater, lying somewhere between the figure 
 given and an altitude one hundred feet higher.] 
 
 Abiathar Peak (10,800) C : 14 1885 U. S. G. 8. For 
 Charles Abiathar White, Paleontologist, U. S. Geological 
 Survey. 
 
 Absaroka Range, A-X : 12-16 1885 U. S. G. S. This range 
 of mountains has had an unfortunate christening history. It 
 was first known as the Yellowstone Range, from its close re- 
 lation to the Yellowstone River, of which it is the source. 
 The original name dates from as far back as 1863, and was 
 adopted by the first explorers of the Park country. It was 
 officially recognized in 1871, by both the Corps of Engineers 
 and the United States Geological Survey. When the Park was 
 created this range became its real eastern boundary, and many 
 of its peaks were named for those who had borne prominent 
 parts in its history. The name had thus an added claim to 
 perpetuity. It passed into general use, and appears in all the 
 writings of the United States Geological Survey down to 1883. 
 
 In 1873, Captain W. A. Jones, of the Corps of Engineers, 
 led an expedition through these mountains the first that ever 
 crossed them. He gave them a new name, " Sierra Shoshone." 
 Except for the fact that he was violating the rule of priority, 
 
290 APPENDIX A. 
 
 his action in giving this name, as well as his judgment in its 
 selection, were of unquestionable propriety. It was a tribe of 
 the Shoshouean family who alone dwelt in the Park, or among 
 these mountains, and it was entirely fitting to commemorate 
 this fact in a distinct and permanent manner. The name 
 passed rapidly into public use, and by 1880 had practically 
 supplanted the original name. 
 
 For reasons that can hardly be made to appear satisfactory, 
 the United States Geological Survey, in 1883, or soon after, 
 rejected both these names and adopted in their place Absaroka, 
 " the Indian name of the Crow nation " (Hague). Of course 
 this action can have no pretense of justification from the stand- 
 point of the " rigid law of priority." There are very few in- 
 stances in American geography of a similar disregard for 
 the rights of previous explorers. Unfortunately, not even the 
 argument of appropriateness can be urged in its defense. 
 These mountains, except that portion north of the Park, were 
 never properly Crow territory, and the name is thus distinctly 
 an importation. Its future use is now unhappily assured on 
 account of its formal adoption (for reasons wholly inadequate, 
 it is true,) by the United States Board on Geographical 
 Names. Against the influence of the government, with its 
 extensive series of publications, even though committed to 
 the perpetuation of an error, it is idle to contend ; but it is 
 greatly to be deplored that a feature of the Park scenery of 
 such co.mmanding prominence should not bear a name at least 
 remotely suggestive of some natural or historical association. 
 
 Amethyst Mountain (9,423) F : 11 1872 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Antler Peak (10,200) E : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Atkins Peak (10,900) N: 14 1885 U. S. G. S. For 
 John D. C. Atkins, Indian Commissioner, 1885-1888. 
 
 Avalanche Peak (10,500) L : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES, ETC, 
 
 291 
 
 Bannock Peak (10,400) D : 4 1885 U. S. G. S From 
 the name of a tribe of Indians who inhabited the country to 
 the south-west of the Park, and were finally settled on a res- 
 ervation in southern Idaho. What is known as the Great 
 Bannock Trail, passed along the valley of Indian Creek, some 
 distance south of this mountain. The spelling here giveu is 
 that which custom seems finally to have settled upon ; but 
 Bannack would more nearly express the original pronuncia- 
 tion. The various spellings, some 
 sixteen in number, come from the 
 original Panai'hti, or Bannai'kti, 
 meaning southern people. 
 
 Barlow Peak (9,500) Q: 10 
 1895 U. S. G. S. For Captain 
 (now Colonel) J. W. Barlow, Corps 
 of Engineers, U. S. A., leader of the 
 military expedition which entered 
 the Park region in 1871. His name 
 was first applied to the upper course 
 of the Snake River, but was re- 
 cently transferred to a neighboring 
 mountain peak. 
 
 Baronett Peak (10,300) C : 13 1878 U. S. G. S. For 
 C. J. Baronett, " Yellosvstone Jack," a famous scout and 
 guide, closely connected with the history of the National 
 Park, and builder of the first bridge across the Yellowstone 
 River. 
 
 Baronett's career was adventurous beyond the average man 
 of his class. He was born in Glencoe, Scotland, in 1829. 
 His father was in the British naval service, aud he early be- 
 gan to follow the sea. In his multitudinous wanderings we 
 find him on the coast of Mexico during the Mexican War; 
 on the Chinese coast in 1850, where he deserted his ship and 
 fled to San Francisco ; in 1852, in Australia after gold ; the 
 
 COLONEL J. W. BARLOW. 
 
292 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 next year in Africa, still on a gold hunt; then in Australia 
 again and in San Francisco ; next in the Arctic seas as 
 second mate on a whaling vessel ; back in California in 1855 ; 
 courier for Albert Sidney Johnston in the Mormon War; 
 
 later in Colorado and Califor- 
 nia searching for gold ; scout in 
 the Confederate service until 
 1863 ; then in Mexico with the 
 French under Maximilian, who 
 made him a captain ; back in 
 California in 1864, and in Mon- 
 tana in September of the same 
 year, where he at once set out 
 on a prospecting trip which 
 took him entirely through the 
 region of the Yellowstone Park ; 
 c. j. BARONETT. later in the service of Geu. Cus- 
 
 ter as scout in the Indian terri- 
 tory; then in Mexico and finally back in Montana in 1870; 
 finder of the lost Everts ; builder of his celebrated bridge 
 in 1871 ; in the Black Hills in 1875, where he slew a 
 local editor who had unjustly reflected upon him in his 
 paper; scout in the Sioux, Nez Perce, and Bannock Wars, 
 1876-8; Indian trader for many years; engaged in innu- 
 merable prospecting ventures ; and still, at the age of 
 sixty-six, searching with his old time ardor for the elusive 
 yellow metal. 
 
 Big Game Ridge Q-T : 9-11 1895 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Birch Hills (7,300) R : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Bison Peak (8,800) D: 12 1878 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES ETC. 293 
 
 Bobcat Rid'je (9,500) T: 9 1895 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Bunsen Peak (9,100) D: 6 1872 U. S. G. S. For the 
 eminent chemist and physicist, Robert Wilhelm Bunsen; in- 
 ventor of the Bunsen electric cell and of the Bunsen Gas 
 Burner; co-discoverer with Kirchoff of the principle of 
 Spectrum Analysis; and the first thorough investigator of 
 the phenomena of geyser action. (See Chapter III, 
 Part II.) 
 
 Cathedral Peak (10,600) J : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Ghittenden, Mi. (10,100) K: 12 1878 U. S. G. E. 
 " Of the prominent peaks of this [the Absaroka] range may 
 be mentioned Mount Chittenden, named for Mr. George B. 
 Chitteuden, whose name has long been identified with this 
 survey." Gannett.* 
 
 Oinnabar Mountain (7,000) A : 5 Named prior to 1870. 
 "So named from the color of its rocks, which have been 
 mistaken for Cinnabar, although the red color is due to iron." 
 Hayden. The Devil's Slide (also named before 1870) is 
 on this mountain. 
 
 Colter Peak (10,500) O : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. For 
 John Colter. (See Part I, Chapter III.) 
 
 Crags, The (9,000) E : 3 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Crescent Hill (7,900) D : 9 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Crow Foot Ridge (9,700) D-E : 3 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Doane, Mt. (10,500) M : 13 1870 Washburn Party 
 For Lieutenant, Gustavus C. Doane, 2d Cavalry, U. S. 
 Army, commander of the military escort to the celebrated 
 Wasburn Expedition of 1870. 
 
 * Page 482, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
APPENDIX A. 
 
 CAPTAIN GUSTAVUS C. DOANE. 
 
 Lieutenant Doane was born in Illinois, May 29, 1840, and 
 died in Bozeraan, Mont., May 5, 1892. At the age of five 
 he went with his parents, in wake of an ox team, to Oregon. 
 
 In 1849 his family went to 
 California at the outbreak 
 of the gold excitement. 
 He remained there ten 
 years, in the meanwhile 
 working his way through 
 school. In 1862 he en- 
 tered the Union service, 
 went east with the Cali- 
 fornia Hundred, and then 
 joined a Massachusetts cav- 
 alry regiment. He was 
 mustered out in 1865 as a 
 First Lieutenant. He join- 
 ed the Carpet-baggers and 
 is said to have become mayor of Yazoo City, Mississippi. 
 He was appointed a Second Lieutenant in the Regular Army 
 in 1868, and continued in the service until his death, attain- 
 ing the rank of Captain. 
 
 Doane's whole career was actuated by a love of adventure. 
 He had at various times planned a voyage to the Polar re- 
 gions, or an expedition of discovery into Africa. But fate 
 assigned him a middle ground, aud he became prominently 
 connected with the discovery of the Upper Yellowstone coun- 
 try. His part in the Expedition of 1870 is second to none. 
 He made the first official report upon the wonders of the 
 Yellowstone, and his fine descriptions have never been sur- 
 passed by any subsequent writer. Although suffering intense 
 physical torture during the greater portion of the trip, it did 
 not extinguish in him the truly poetic ardor with which those 
 strange phenomena seem to have inspired him. Dr. Hayden 
 says of this report: "I venture to state, as my opinion, that 
 
MOUNTAIN KANGES, ETC. 295 
 
 for graphic description and thrilling interest it has not been 
 surpassed by any official report made to our government since 
 the times of Lewis and Clark."* 
 
 Lieutenant Doane and Mr. Langford were the first white 
 men known to have ascended any of the higher peaks of the 
 Absaroka Range. From the summit of the mountain so as- 
 cended, Mr. Langford made the first known authentic sketch 
 of Yellowstone Lake. This sketch was used soon after by 
 General Washburn iu compiling an official map of that sec- 
 tion of country, and he was so much pleased with it that he 
 7j .7- ..^ n ^ "" ' A " ; ' n frr >m which it was taken, Mt. Langford. 
 
 n . - December 14, 1895. a neighboring peak, 
 
 S. G. S.-Charac- 
 raven called upon Lieut. Gen. Philip H 
 
 'U. 8. G. S._Cha, 
 the fa 
 
 .i,. s. G. s._..Th is 
 
 f *e Earl of Du,, 
 
 loiie 80 r" tow f d 
 
 tter be given him to the commanding office of cer across the water. "- 
 
 
 that on his coming over to OhiVae-o characteristic poem. 
 
 S u. s. . s.- 
 
 . to. IT, o- Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 * Page 8, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden.- 
 tPage 478, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
294 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Lieutenant Doane was born in Illinois, May 29, 1840, and 
 died in Bozeraan, Mont., May 5, 1892. At the age of five 
 he went with his parents, in wake of an ox team, to Oregon. 
 
 In 1849 his family went to 
 California at the outbreak 
 of the gold excitement. 
 He remained there ten 
 years, in the meanwhile 
 working his way through 
 school. In 1862 he eu- 
 
 December 14, 1895. 
 
 
 mentioned in such a forcible manner by G e : 
 
 his report as commanding General of the Arm'v 
 
 Forts of Gen. Miles will doubtless result at least in 
 
 nmng being made by Congress upon the per n" 
 
 -fensive works so urgently needed upon both th< 
 
 CAPTAIN GUSTAVUS c. DOANE ntic and Pacific coasts. 
 
 to have become ma^ 
 
 He was appointed a Second If our exchanges showing how Assistant 
 
 in 1868, and continued in tlf War Doe got the better of the General in regar 
 
 ing the rank of Captain. le . latt er's view that two entire years of service 
 
 Doane's whole career was ," ploughs, must be rendered by an enli 
 
 tan going up for a commission. All the same howe 
 
 He had at various times plr e notice that par. 30. Army Regulations/1895 
 gions, or an expedition of cw governs, directs that "an applicant will not be 
 assigned him a middle grou ered for the Preliminary examinations unless it is 
 
 connected with the discovery ";,?? * h&t> D - th . e lst f Se P tei ber next following, 
 
 J ill have served honorably not less than two years I 
 
 try. His part in the Expensive of technical service due to furlough or other 
 He made the first official r !nce from duty in his own interest" 
 Yellowstone, and his fine d 
 passed by any subsequent wr 
 
 physical torture during the y , ,, 
 
 not extinguish in him the truly poetic ardor with which those 
 strange phenomena seem to have inspired him. Dr. Hayden 
 says of this report: " I venture to state, as my opinion, that 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES, ETC. 295 
 
 for graphic description and thrilling interest it has not been 
 surpassed by any official report made to our government since 
 the times of Lewis and Clark."* 
 
 Lieutenant Doane and Mr. Langford were the first white 
 men known to have ascended any of the higher peaks of the 
 Absaroka Range. From the summit of the mountain so as- 
 cended, Mr. Langford made the first known authentic sketch 
 of Yellowstone Lake. This sketch was used soon after by 
 General Washburn in compiling an official map of that sec- 
 tion of country, and he was so much pleased with it that he 
 named the mountain from which it was taken, Mt. Langford. 
 At Mr. Langford's request, he named a neighboring peak, 
 Mt. Doane. 
 
 Dome, The (9,900) E : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Druid Peak (9,600) D : 12 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Dunraven Peak (9,700) F : 9 1878 U. S. G. S. "This 
 I have named Dunraven Peak in honor of the Earl of Dun- 
 raven, whose travels and writings have done so much toward 
 making this region known to our cousins across the water. "- 
 Gannett.f 
 
 Dunraven visited the Park in 1874. In 1876, he published 
 his " Great Divide," describing his travels iu the West. The 
 irrepressible Colonel Norris named this peak after himself, 
 and coupled it with Mt. Washburn in a characteristic poem. 
 But the United States Geological Survey decided otherwise, 
 and transferred the colonel's name to the north-east corner 
 of the Park. (See " Mt. Norris.") 
 
 Eagle Peak (10,800) O : 14 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Echo Peak C9.600) E : 4 1885 U. S. G, S Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 * Page 8, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden.- 
 t Page 478, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
296 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Electric Peak (11,155) B : 4-5 1872 U. S. G. S. From 
 the following circumstance, described by Mr. Henry Gannett, 
 who ascended the mountain with surveying instruments, July 
 26, 1872 : * 
 
 "A thunder-shower was approaching as we neared the sum- 
 mit of the mountain. I was above the others of the party, 
 and, when about fifty feet below the summit, the electric cur- 
 rent began to pass through my body. At first I felt noth- 
 ing, but heard a crackling noise, similar to a rapid discharge 
 of sparks from a friction machine. Immediately after, I 
 began to feel a tingling or pricking sensation in my head and 
 the ends of my fingers, which, as well as the noise, increased 
 rapidly, until, when I reached the top, the noise, which had 
 not changed its character, was deafening, and my hair stood 
 completely on end, while the tingling, pricking sensation wa 
 absolutely painful. Taking off my hat partially relieved it. 
 I started down again, and met the others twenty-five or thirty 
 feet below the summit. They were affected similarly, but in- 
 a less degree. One of them attempted to go to the top, but 
 had proceeded but a few feet when he received quite a severe 
 shock, which felled him as if he had stumbled. We then re- 
 turned down the mountain about three hundred feet, and to this 
 point we still heard and felt the electricity." 
 
 Elephant Back (8,600) J : 9 1871 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. " On account of the almost vertical sides of this 
 mountain, and the rounded form of the summit, it has re- 
 ceived the name of the Elephant's Back." Hayden.f 
 
 This name, as now applied, refers to a different feature from 
 that originally designated by it. Many years before the Park 
 was discovered, it was used to denote the long ridge of which 
 Mt. Washburn is the commanding summit, and which was 
 distinctly visible from beyond the present limits of the Park r 
 both north and south. It so appears upon Raynolds' map of 
 
 * Page 807, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 TPage 98, Fifth Aiinual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES, ETC. 297 
 
 1860, and was so used by the Washburn Expedition (1870), 
 by Captain Barlow (1871), and by Captain Jones (1873). 
 The United States Geological Survey, however, in 1871, 
 transferred the name to an inconspicuous ridge more than 
 a thousand feet lower than the surrounding mountains. 
 Whether the change was made by accident or design does 
 not appear. Captain Ludlow, as late as 1875, refers to it 
 and deplores the fact that it had taken place. 
 
 Everts, 3ft. (7,900) C : 7 1870 Washburn Party. For 
 Hon. Truman C. Everts, member of the Expedition of 1870, 
 whose terrible experience is elsewhere alluded to. The fol- 
 lowing succinct account is from the pen of Lieutenant Doane, 
 and is in the main correct : * 
 
 "On the first day of his absence, he had left his horse stand- 
 ing unfastened, with all his arms and equipments strapped 
 upon his saddle ; the animal became frightened, ran away into 
 the woods, and he was left without even a pocket knife as a 
 means of defense. Being very near-sighted, and totally un- 
 used to traveling in a wild country without guides, he became 
 completely bewildered. He wandered down to the Snake 
 River Lake [Hart Lake], where he remained twelve days, 
 sleeping near the hot springs to keep from freezing at night, 
 and climbing to the summits each day in the endeavor to 
 trace out his proper course. Here he subsisted on thistle- 
 roots, boiled in the springs, and was kept up a tree the greater 
 part of one night by a California lion. After gathering and 
 cooking a supply of thistle-roots, he managed to strike the 
 south-west point of the [Yellowstone] Lake, and followed 
 around the north side to the Yellowstone [River], finally 
 reaching our [old] camp opposite the Grand Cafion. He was 
 twelve days out before he thought to kindle a fire by using 
 the lenses of his field-glass, but afterward carried a burning 
 brand with him in all his wanderings. Herds of game 
 
 * Page 37, " Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. 
 
"298 APPENDIX A. 
 
 passed by him during the night, on many occasions when he 
 was on the verge of starvation. In addition to a tolerable 
 supply of thistle-roots, he had nothing for over thirty days 
 but a handful of minnows and a couple of snow-birds. Twice 
 he went five days without food, and three days without water, 
 in that country which is a net-work of streams and springs. 
 He was found on the verge of the great plateau, above the 
 mouth of Gardiner's River. A heavy snow-storm had extin- 
 guished his fire ; his supply of thistle-roots was exhausted ; 
 he was partially deranged, and perishing with cold. A large 
 .lion was killed near him, on the trail, which he said had fol- 
 lowed him at a short distance for several days previously. It 
 was a miraculous escape, considering the utter helplessness of 
 the man, lost in a forest wilderness, and with the storms of 
 winter at hand." 
 
 On the thirty-seventh day of his wanderings (September 
 9th to October 16th), he was discovered by Jack Baronett 
 and George A. Pritchett, near the great trail on a high moun- 
 tain a few miles west of Yancey's. Baronett threw up a 
 mound of stones to mark the spot He carried Everts in his 
 arms the rest of that day, and passed the night on a small 
 tributary of Black-tail Deer Creek. The next day he was 
 taken on a saddle to near the mouth of the Gardiner. 
 
 The commemoration of this adventure in the naming of Mt. 
 Everts was an awkward mischance. The mountain which 
 should bear the name is Mt. Sheridan. It, was named for Everts 
 by the Washburn Party the night before he was lost, in recog- 
 nition of his having been the first white man (except Mr. 
 Hedges, who was with him) known to have visited its summit. 
 In the writings of the Washburn Party after their return, it 
 is so used ; one very interesting article, by Mr. Hedges, with 
 this name as a title, being published iu the Helena Herald be- 
 fore it was known that Mr. Everts had been found. But the 
 name, Mt. Everts, was finally given to the bmad plateau be- 
 tween the Gardiner and the Yellowstone, a feature which is 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES, ETC. 
 
 299 
 
 not a mountain at all, and which is ten miles from where 
 Everts was found. The actual locality of the finding was 
 erroneously supposed to be near " Rescue Creek." 
 
 In 1871, Captain Barlow ascended the mountain which 
 should have borne the name of Everts, and called it Mt. 
 Sheridan, in ignorance of its former christening. 
 
 Factory Hill (9,500) O : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. The term 
 " factory" has at various times been applied to several differ- 
 ent localities in the Park, because of their striking resem- 
 blance on frosty mornings to an active factory town. The re- 
 semblance was noted as far back as 1829. The name has 
 now become fixed, as above indicated. 
 
 Flat Mountain (9,000) N : 9 1871 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. This mountain had already been named by the 
 Washburn Party Yellow Mountain, from its color. 
 
 Folsom Peak (9,300) 
 E : 8 1895 U. S. G. S. 
 For David E. Folsom, 
 leader of the Expedition 
 of 1869, and author of the 
 first general description of 
 the valley of the Upper 
 Yellowstone. 
 
 Forellen Peak (9,700) 
 T : 5 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 From the German name 
 for Trout. 
 
 Oallatin Range A-F : 
 1-4 Name in use prior DAVID E FOLSOM 
 
 to 1870. Raynolds has 
 
 "Mt. Gallatin" on his map. Gallatin River (see name) 
 rises in this range. 
 
 Garnet Hill (7,000) C : 9 1878 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
300 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Giant Castle (10,000) K : 14-15 1873 Jones Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Gibbon Hill (8,600) H : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. From the 
 Gibbon River. 
 
 Gravel Peak (9,600) T : 11 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Gray Peak (10,300) C-D : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Qrisdy Peak (9,700) L : 12 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Hancock, Mi. (10,100) R : 10 1871 Barlow For Gen- 
 eral W. S. Hancock, U. S. Army, who, as commanding officer 
 of the Department of Dakota, had lent his active aid in the 
 prosecution of the Yellowstone Explorations. 
 
 Hawk's Rest (9,800) R : 14 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Hedges Peak (9,500) G : 9 1895 U. S. G. S. For Cor- 
 nelius Hedges, a prominent member of the Washburn Expe- 
 dition, author of a series of descriptive articles upon the trip, 
 and first to advance and publicly advocate the idea of setting 
 apart that region as a National Park. 
 
 Holmes, Mt. (10,300) F : 4 1878 U. S. G. S. For W. 
 H. Holmes, Geologist, U. S. Geological Survey. This peak 
 had been previously called Mt. Madison. 
 
 Horseshoe Hill (8,200) E : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Hoyt, Mt. (10,400) L : 13 1881 Norris For the Hon. 
 John W. Hoyt, then Governor of Wyoming. 
 
 Huckleberry Mountain (9,700) S : 7 1885 U. 8. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Humphreys, Mt. (11,000) N : 14 1871 BarlowFor 
 General A. A. Humphreys, then Chief of Engineers, U. S. A. 
 
 Index Peak (11,740) C : 16 This mountain, and Pilot 
 Knob near it, received their names from unknown sources 
 prior to 1870. 
 
 " One of them [the peaks] derives its name from its shape, 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES, ETC. 301 
 
 like a closed hand with the index-finger extending upward, 
 while the other is visible from so great a distance on every 
 side that it forms an excellent landmark for the wandering 
 miner, and thus its appropriate name of Pilot Knob."- 
 Hayden.* 
 
 Joseph Peak (10,300) C : 4 1885 U. S. G. 8. For 
 Chief Joseph, the famous Nez Perce leader in the war of 1877. 
 He deservedly ranks among the most noted of the North 
 American Indians. His remarkable conduct of the campaign 
 of 1877 and his uniform abstinence from those barbarous 
 practices which have always characterized Indian warfare, 
 were a marvel to all who were familiar with the facts. No 
 Indian chief ever commanded to such a degree the respect 
 and even friendship of his enemies. 
 
 Junction Butte (6,500) D : 10 When or by whom given 
 not known. The name arose, of course, from the fact that 
 this butte stands at the junction of the two important streams, 
 the Yellowstone and Lamar Rivers. Barlow records that the 
 Butte was known as "Square Butte" at the time of his visit 
 in 1871. 
 
 Lake Butte (8,600) K : 11 1878 Characteristic. 
 
 Landmark, The (8,800) F : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Langf&rd, Mt. (10,600) M: 13 1870 Washburn Party 
 For the Hon. Nathaniel Pitt Langford, first Superintendent 
 of the Yellowstone National Park. 
 
 Mr. Laugford was born August 9, 1832, in Westmoreland, 
 Oneida County, New York. His early life was spent on his 
 father's farm, and his education was obtained by winter at- 
 tendance at district school. At nineteen, he became clerk in 
 the Oneida Bank of Utica. In 1854, he went to St. Paul, 
 where we find him, in 1855, cashier of the banking house of 
 Marshall & Co., and in 1858, cashier of the Bank of the State 
 
 Page 48, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
302 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 of Minnesota. In 1862, he went to Montana as second in, 
 command of the Northern Overland Expedition, consisting of 
 130 men and 53 wagons drawn by oxen. In 1864, he was 
 
 made Collector of Internal 
 Revenue for the new terri- 
 tory. In 1868, he was ap- 
 pointed by President John- 
 son Governor of Montana, 
 but as this was after the 
 Senate's imbroglio with the 
 President and its refusal 
 to confirm any more presi- 
 dential appointments, he 
 did not reach this office. 
 He was one of the famous 
 Montana Vigilantes, a 
 member of the Yellowstone 
 Expedition of 1870, and 
 first Superintendent of the 
 newly created Park. In 
 1872, he was appointed National Bank Examiner for the 
 Pacific States and Territories, and held the office for thir- 
 teen years. He now resides in St. Paul, Minnesota. He 
 is author of a series of articles in Scribner's for 1871, de- 
 scribing the newly-discovered wonders of the Yellowstone, 
 and of the important work, " Vigilante Days and Ways," 
 the most complete history in existence of that critical period 
 in Montana history. 
 
 The notable part which Mr. Langford bore in the discovery 
 of the Upper Yellowstone country, and in the creation of the 
 Yellowstone National Park, has beeu fully set forth elsewhere. 
 He has always been its ardent friend, and his enthusiasm upon 
 the subject in the earlier days of its history drew upon him 
 the mild raillery of his friends, who were wont to call him 
 
 NATHANIEL PITT LANGFORD. 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES, ETC. 
 
 303 
 
 " National Park " Langford *a soubriquet to which the initials 
 of his real name readily lent themselves. 
 
 For the circumstance of naming Mt. Langford, see " Mt. 
 Doane." 
 
 Mary Mountain (8,500) J : 7 Probably so named by 
 tourists from Mary Lake, which rests on the summit. 
 
 Moran, Mt. (12,800) W : 5 1872 U. S. G. S. For the 
 artist, Thomas Morau, who produced the picture of the Grand 
 Canon now in the Capitol at Washington. 
 
 Needles, The (9,600) E : 14 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Nvrris, Mt. (9,900) 
 E: 13 1878 U. S. G. S. 
 For Philetus W. Norris, 
 second Superintendent of 
 the Park, and the most 
 conspicuous figure in its 
 history. 
 
 He was born at Palmy- 
 ra, New York, August 17, 
 1821. At the age of eight, 
 he was tourist guide at 
 Portage Falls on the Gene- 
 see River, New York, and 
 at seventeen he was in 
 Manitoba in the service of British fur traders. In 1842, he 
 settled in Williams County, Ohio, where he founded the village 
 of Pioneer. Between 1850 and 1860 he visited the Far West. 
 At the outbreak of the Civil War, he entered the army and 
 served a short time as spy and captain of scouts. He was 
 then placed in charge of Rebel prisoners on Johnson's Island. 
 He next entered politics as member of the Ohio House 
 of Representatives, but being later defeated for the State 
 Senate, he joined the United States Sanitary Commission 
 
 PHILETUS W. NORRIS. 
 
304 APPENDIX A. 
 
 and went again to the front. He soon returned and be- 
 came trustee of certain landed property near the City of 
 Detroit belonging to officers and soldiers of both armies. 
 These lands he reclaimed at great expense from their original 
 swampy condition, and built thereon the village of Norris, now 
 part of Detroit. In 1770, he went west again and undertook 
 to enter the Park region in June of that year, but permitted 
 the swollen condition of the streams to defeat his project. 
 He thus missed the honor which a few months later fell to the 
 Washburn Party a misfortune which he never ceased to de- 
 plore. In 1875, he again visited the Park, and in 1877, be- 
 came its second Superintendent. In 1882, he returned to 
 Detroit, after which he was employed by the government to 
 explore old Indian mounds, forts, villages, and tombs, and to 
 collect relics for the National Museum. He died at Rocky 
 Hill, Kentucky, January 14, 1885. He is author of the fol- 
 lowing works : Five Annual Reports as Superintendent of 
 the Park ; " The Calumet of the Coteau," a volume of verse, 
 with much additional matter relating to the Park ; and a long 
 series of articles on " The Great West," published in the Nor- 
 ris Suburban in 18768. 
 
 The above sketch sufficiently discloses the salient charac- 
 teristic of Norris' career. His life was that of the pioneer, 
 and was spent in dealing first blows in the subjugation of a 
 primeval wilderness. He was " blazing trails," literally and 
 figuratively, all his days, leaving to others the building of the 
 finished highway. It is therefore not surprising that his work 
 lacks the element of completeness, which comes only from 
 patient attention to details. Nowhere is this defect more ap- 
 parent than in his writings. A distinct literary talent, and 
 something of the poet's inspiration, were, to use his own 
 words, "well nigh strangled" by the "stern realities of bor- 
 der life." His prose abounds in aggregations of more than 
 one hundred words between- periods, so ill arranged and bar- 
 barously punctuated as utterly to bewilder the reader. His 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES, ETC. 305 
 
 verse we have searched in vaiu for a single quatrain that 
 would justify reproduction. Nevertheless, his writings, like 
 his works, were always to some good purpose. They contained 
 much useful information, and, being widely read throughout 
 the West, had a large and beneficial influence. 
 
 Perhaps no better or more generous estimate of his charac- 
 ter can be found than in the following words of Mr. Langford 
 who knew him well: " He was a good man, a true man, 
 faithful to his friends, of very kind heart, grateful for kind- 
 nesses, of more than ordinary personal courage, rather vain 
 of his poetical genius, and fond of perpetuating his name in 
 prominent features of scenery." 
 
 Concerning which last characteristic it may be noted that three 
 mountain peaks, one geyser basin, one pass, and an uncertain 
 number of other features of the Park, were thought by Col- 
 onel Norris deserving of this distinction. With inimitable 
 fidelity to this trait of his character, he had even selected as 
 his final resting-place the beautiful open glade on the south 
 side of the Grand Canon, just below the Lower Falls. 
 
 Observation Peak (9,300) G : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Obsidian Cliff (7,800) F : 6 1878 Norris Characteris- 
 tic. 
 
 Paint Pot Hill (7,900) H : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Pelican Cone (9,580) I : 12 1885 U. S. G. S. Near 
 source of Pelican Creek. 
 
 Pilot Knob (11,977) C : 16 See " Index Peak." 
 
 Pinon Peak (9,600) S : 10 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Prospect Peak (9,300) D-E : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Pyramid Peak (10,300) J : 14 1895 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
306 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Quadrant Mountain (10,200) D : 4 1878 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Red Mountain Range P: 7-8 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Reservation Peak (10,600) M : 14 1895 U. S. G. S. 
 - Characteristic. 
 
 Roaring Mountain (8,000) F : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 " It takes its name from the shrill, penetrating sound of the 
 steam constantly escaping from one or more vents near the 
 summit." Hague. 
 
 Saddle Mountain (11,100) H : 15 1880 Norris Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Schurz ML (10,900) N : 14 1885 U. S. G. S. For 
 Carl Schurz, Secretary of the Interior during President 
 Hayes' administration. This name was first given by Colonel 
 Norris to the prominent ridge on the west side of the Gibbon 
 Cafion. 
 
 Sepulcher Mountain (9,500) B-C : 5-6 The origin of this 
 name is unknown. The following remarks concerning it are 
 from the pen of Prof. Wm. H. Holmes : * 
 
 " Why this mountain received such a melancholy appella- 
 tion I have not been able to discover. So far as I know, the 
 most important thing buried beneath its dark mass is the se- 
 cret of its structure. It is possible that the form suggested 
 the name." 
 
 Sheepeater Cliffs (7,500) D : 7 1879 Norris From the 
 name of a tribe of Indians, the only known aboriginal occu- 
 pants of what is now the Yellowstone Park. (See Chapter II, 
 Part II.) It was upon one of the " ancient and but recently 
 deserted, secluded, unknown haunts "of these Indians, that 
 Colonel Norris, " in rapt astonishment," stumbled one day, and 
 was so impressed by what he saw, that he gave the neighboring 
 cliff its present name. He thus describes this retreat : f 
 
 * Page 15, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
 t Page 10, Annual Report Superintendent of the Park for 1879. 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES, ETC. 307 
 
 " It is mainly carpeted with soft grass, dotted, fringed, and 
 overhung with small pines, firs and cedars, and, with the sub- 
 dued and mingled murmur of the rapids and cataracts above 
 and below it, and the laughing ripple of the gliding stream, 
 is truly an enchanting dell a wind and storm sheltered refuge 
 for the feeble remnant of a fading race." 
 
 Sheridan Mt. (10,250) P : 8 1871 Barlow For Gen. 
 P. H. Sheridan, who actively forwarded all the early ex- 
 ploring expeditions in this region, and, at a later day, twice 
 visited the Park. His public warnings at this time of the 
 danger to which the Park was exposed from vandals, poachers, 
 and railroad promoters, and his vigorous appeal for its pro- 
 tection, had great influence in bringing about a more efficient 
 and enlightened policy in regard to that reservation. (See 
 "Mt. Everts.") 
 
 Signal Hills (9,500) M : 12 1871 U. S. G. S. A ridge 
 extending back from Signal Point on the Yellowstone Lake. 
 
 Silver Tip Peak (10,400) K : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Specimen Ridge (8,700) E : 11 Name known prior to 
 1870. Characteristic. (See Chapter V, Part II.) 
 
 Stevenson, Mt. (10,300) M : 13 1871 U. S. G. S. For 
 James Stevenson, long prominently connected with the U. S. 
 Geological Survey. 
 
 " In honor of his great services not only during the past 
 season, but for over twelve years of unremitting toil as my 
 assistant, oftentimes without pecuniary reward, and with but 
 little of the scientific recognition that usually comes to the 
 original explorer, I have desired that one of the principal 
 islands of the lake and one of the noble peaks reflected in its 
 clear waters should bear his name forever." Hayden.* 
 
 Mr. Stevenson was born in Maysville, Ky., December 24, 
 1840. He early displayed a taste for exploration and natural 
 history, and such reading as his limited education permitted 
 
 Page 5, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
308 APPENDIX A. 
 
 was devoted to books treating of these subjects. At the age 
 of thirteen he ran away from home and joined a party of 
 Hudson's Bay Fur Company's traders, bound up the Missouri 
 
 River. Ou the same boat 
 was Dr. F. V. Hay den, 
 then on his way to explore 
 the fossiliferous region of 
 the Upper Missouri and 
 Yellowstone Rivers. No- 
 ticing Stevenson's taste for 
 natural history he invited 
 him to join him in his 
 work. Stevenson accept- 
 ed; and thus began a re- 
 lation which ed for 
 more than a quarter of a 
 century, and which gave 
 JAMES STEVENSON. direction to the rest of his 
 
 life. 
 
 He was engaged in several explorations between 1850 and 
 1860, connected with the Pacific railroad surveys, and with 
 others under Lieutenants G. K. Warren and W. F. Ray- 
 nolds. In 1861 he entered the Union service as a private 
 soldier, and left it in 1865 with an officer's commission. 
 After the war he resumed his connection with Dr. Hayden. 
 He was mainly instrumental in the organization of the 
 United States Geological Survey of the Territories in 1867, 
 and during the next twelve years he was constantly engaged in 
 promoting its welfare. When the consolidation of the various 
 geographical and geological surveys took place in 1879, under 
 the name of the United States Geological Survey, he became 
 associated with the United States Bureau of Ethnology. He 
 had always shown a taste for ethnological investigations and 
 his scientific work during the rest of his life was in this direc- 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES, ETC. 309 
 
 tion, principally among the races of New Mexico and Arizona. 
 He died in New York City July 25, 1888. 
 
 In the paragraph quoted above from Dr. Hayden there is 
 more than any but the few who are familiar with the early 
 history of the geological surveys will understand. It rarely 
 happens that a master is so far indebted to a servant for his 
 success, as was true of the relation of Dr. Hayden and James 
 Stevenson. Stevenson's great talent lay in the organization 
 and management of men. His administrative ability in the 
 field was invaluable to the Survey of which Hayden was 
 chief, and his extraordinary influence with Congressmen was 
 a vital element in its early growth. His part in the Yellow- 
 stone Explorations of 1871 and 1872 is second to none in im- 
 portance. It will not be forgotten that he was the first to 
 build and launch a boat upon the Yellowstone Lake, nor that 
 he, and Mr. Langford who was with him, were the first white 
 men to reach the summit of the Grand Teton. 
 
 Storm Peak (9,500) E : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Survey Peak (9,200) T : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. This 
 mountain was a prominent signaling point for the Indians. 
 It was first named Monument Peak by Richard Leigh who 
 built a stone mound on its summit. 
 
 Table Mountain (10,800) O : 14 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Terrace Mountain (8,100) C : 6 1878 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Teton, Grand (13,691) Not on Map. This mountain has 
 borne its present name for upward of four score years. 
 Through more than half a century it was a cynosure to the 
 wandering trapper, miner and explorer. The name has 
 passed into all the literature of that period, which will ever 
 remain one of the most fascinating in our western history. 
 Indeed, it has become the classic designation of the most in- 
 teresting historic summit of the Rocky Mountains. That it 
 
310 APPENDIX A. 
 
 should always retain this designation in memory of the name- 
 less pioneers who have been guided by it across the wilder- 
 ness, and thousands of whom have perished beneath its 
 shadow, would seem to be a self-evident proposition. Individ- 
 ual merit, no matter how great, can never justify the usurpa- 
 tion of its place by any personal name whatever. An at- 
 tempt to do this was made in 1872 by the United States 
 Geological Survey who rechristeued it Mt. Hayden. The 
 new name has never gained any local standing, and although 
 it has crept into many maps its continued use ought to be dis- 
 couraged. It is greatly to the credit of Dr. Hayden that he 
 personally disapproved the change, so far at least, as very 
 rarely, if ever, to refer to the mountain by its new name. 
 
 Three Rivers Peak (9,900) E : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 Branches of the Madison, Gallatin and Gardiner Rivers take 
 their rise from its slopes. 
 
 Thunderer, The (10,400) D : 14 1885-U. S. G. S. 
 Seemingly a great focus for thunder storms. 
 
 Top Notch Peak (10,000) L : 13 1895 U. S. G. S.- 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Trident, The (10,000) Q-R : 14 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Trilobiie Point (9,900) F : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Turret Mountain (10,400) P : 14 1878 Characteris- 
 tic. Called by Captain Jones " Round-head or Watch 
 Tower." 
 
 Twin Buttes (8,400) K : 14 1870 Washburn Party. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Waxhburn, Mt. (10,000) F : 9 1870 Washburn Party. 
 For General Henry Dana Washburn, chief of the Yellow- 
 stone Expedition of 1870. 
 
 General Washburn was born in Windsor, Vt., March 28, 
 1832. His parents moved to Ohio during his infancy. He 
 received a common school education and at fourteen began 
 
MOUNTAIN RANGES, ETC. 
 
 311 
 
 teaching school. He entered Oberlin College, but did not com- 
 plete his course. At eighteeu he went to Indiana where he 
 resumed school-teaching. At twenty-oue he entered the New 
 York State and National 
 Law School, from which 
 he graduated. At twenty- 
 three he was elected audi- 
 tor of Vermilion county, 
 Indiana. 
 
 His war record was a 
 highly honorable one. He 
 entered the army as pri- 
 vate in 1861 and left it 
 as brevet brigadier-general 
 in 1865. His service was 
 mainly identified with the 
 Eighteenth Indiana, of 
 which he became colonel. 
 He was in several of the 
 western campaigns, nota- 
 bly in that of Vicksburg, in which he bore a prominent part. 
 In the last year of the war he was with Sherman's army, and 
 for a short time after its close was in command of a military 
 district in southern Georgia. In 1864, he was elected to 
 Congress over the Hon. Daniel W. Voorhees, and again, in 
 1866, over the Hon. Solomon W. Claypool. At the expira- 
 tion of his second term he was appointed by President Grant, 
 surveyor-general of Montana, which office he held until his 
 death. 
 
 It was during his residence in Montana that the famous 
 Yellowstone Expedition of 1870 took place. His part in that 
 important work is perhaps the most notable feature of his ca- 
 reer. As leader of the expedition he won the admiration and 
 affection of its members. He was the first to send to Wash- 
 ington specimens from the geyser formations. He ardently 
 
 GEN. HENRY DANA WASHBURN. 
 
312 APPENDIX A. 
 
 espoused the project of setting apart this region as a public 
 park and was on his way to Washington in its interest when 
 his career was cut short by death. The hardship and expos- 
 ure of the expedition had precipitated the catastrophe to 
 which he had long been tending. He left Helena in Novem- 
 ber, 1870, and died of consumption at his home in Clinton, 
 Indiana, January 26, 1871. 
 
 General Washburn's name was given to this mountain by a 
 unanimous vote of the party on the evening of August 28, 
 1870, as a result of the following incident related by Mr. 
 Langford : 
 
 " Our first Sunday in camp was at Tower Creek. The for- 
 est around us was very dense, and we were somewhat at a loss 
 in deciding what course we needed to follow in order to reach 
 Yellowstone Lake. We had that day crossed a fresh Indian 
 trail, a circumstance which admonished us of the necessity of 
 watchfulness so as to avoid disaster. While we were resting 
 in camp, General Washburn, without our knowledge, and un- 
 attended, made his way to the mountain, from the summit of 
 which, overlooking the dense forest which environed us, he 
 saw Yellowstone Lake, our objective point, and carefully noted 
 its direction from our camp. This intelligence was most joy- 
 fully received by us, for it relieved our minds of all anxiety 
 concerning our course of travel, and dispelled the fears of 
 some of our party lest we should become inextricably involved 
 in that wooded labyrinth." 
 
 White Peaks (9,800) F : 4 1895 U. S. G.S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Wild Cat Peak (9,800) T : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Yount Peak (Hayden, 11,700; Hague, 12,250) Not on 
 map. 1878 U. S. G. S. Source of the Yellowstone. 
 Named for an old trapper and guide of that region. 
 
STREAMS. 313 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 III. 
 
 STREAMS. 
 
 [Map locations refer only to outlets, or to points where streams 
 pass off the limits of the map. Altitudes refer to the same 
 points, but are given only in the most important cases.] 
 
 Agate Greek E : 10 1878 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Alum Creek H : 9 Name known prior to 1870 Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Amethyst Creek E : 12 1878 U. S. G. S. Flows from 
 Amethyst Mountain. 
 
 Amphitheater Greek D : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. From form 
 of valley near its mouth. 
 
 Antelope Creek E : 10 1870 Washburn Party Charac- 
 teristic. This name is often applied locally to a tributary of 
 the Yellowstone just above Trout Creek. 
 
 Arnica Greek L, : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Aster Creek P : 7 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Astrigent Creek J : 12 1885 U. S. G. S. Character- 
 istic. 
 
 Atlantic Creek S : 13 1873 Jones Flows from Two- 
 Ocean-Pass down the Atlantic slope. 
 
 Badger Greek P : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Basin Greek Q : 9 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Bear Creek B : 7 1863 Party of prospectors under one 
 Austin. " On the way they found fair prospects in a creek 
 on the east side of the Yellowstone, and finding also a hair- 
 less cub, called the gulch " Bear." Topping. 
 
314 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Bear OreekK : 11 1885 U. S. G. S.- -Characteristic. 
 
 Beaver Creek O : 9 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Beaver Dam Greek O : 12 1871 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 BecUer River R : 1 1872 U. S. G. S. For Gustavus 
 R. Bechler, topographer on the Snake River Division of the 
 Hayden Expedition of 1872. 
 
 Berry Creek \3 : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Black-tail Deer Creek B : 8 Named prior to 1870 Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Bluff Creek ft : 10 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Bog Creek H : 10 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Boone Creek T : 1 Named prior to 1870 For Robert 
 Withrow, an eccentric pioneer of Irish descent, who used to 
 call himself "Daniel Boone the Second." 
 
 Bridge Creek K : 9 1871 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 "At one point, soon after leaving camp, we found a most 
 singular natural bridge of the trachyte, which gives passage 
 to a small stream, which we called Bridge Creek." Hayden. 
 
 "Natural Bridge" is really over a branch of Bridge 
 Creek. 
 
 Broad Creek F : 10 1871 Barlow Characteristic. 
 
 Buffalo Creek D : 11 Prior to 1870 Naming party un- 
 known Characteristic. 
 
 Burnt Creek E : 10 1885 CJ. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Cache Creek F : 13 1863 Prospecting party under one 
 Austin were in camp on this stream when they were surprised 
 by Indians, and all their stock stolen except one or two mules. 
 Being unable to carry all their baggage from this point, they 
 cached what they could not place on the mules, or could not 
 themselves carry. From this circumstance arose the name. 
 
 Calfee Creek F : 13 1880 Norris For H. B. Calfee, a 
 photographer of note. 
 
 " Some seven miles above Cache Creek we passed the mouth 
 of another stream in a deep, narrow, timbered valley, which. 
 
STREAMS. 315 
 
 we named Calfee Creek, after the famous photographer of the 
 Park. Five miles further on, we reached the creek which 
 Miller recognized as the one he descended in retreating from 
 the Indians in 1870, and which, on this account, we called 
 Miller's Creek." .Norris.* 
 
 Canon Creek I : 5 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Carnelian Creek E : 9 1885 U. S. G. S. Character- 
 istic. 
 
 Cascade Creek G : 8 1870 Washburn Party Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Chalcedony Creek E : 12 1885 U. S. G. 8. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Chipmunk Creek O : 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Clear Creek L, : 11 1878 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Cliff Creek Q, : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Clover Creek G : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Cold Creek H : 14 1885 TJ. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Columbine Creek M : 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Conant Creek T : 1 Prior to 1870 By Richard Leigh 
 for one All Conant, who went to the mountains in 1865, and 
 who came near losing his life on this stream. 
 
 Cotton Grass Creek H : 9 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Cougar Creek G : 2 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Coulter Creek R : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. For John M. 
 Coulter, botanist in the Hayden Expedition of 1872. 
 
 Crawfish Creek R : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Character- 
 istic. 
 
 Crevice Creek C : 7 1867 Prospecting party under one 
 Lou Anderson. 
 
 "They found gold in a crevice at the mouth of the first 
 Stream above Bear, and named it, in consequence, Crevice 
 
 * Page 7, Annual Report Superintendent of the Park for 1880. 
 
316 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Gulch. Hubbel went ahead the next day for a hunt, and 
 upon his return he was asked what kind of a stream the next 
 creek was. " It's a hell roarer," was his reply, and Hell 
 Roaring is its name to this day. The second day after this, 
 he was again ahead, and, the same question being asked him, 
 he said : " T was but a slough." When the party came to it, 
 they found a rushing torrent, and, in crossing, a pack horse 
 and his load were swept away, but the name of Slough Creek 
 remains." Topping. 
 
 Crooked Creek U : 10 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Crow Creek K : 15 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Crystal Greek D : 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Oub Greek L : 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Deep Creek E : 10 1873 Jones Characteristic. 
 
 De Lacy Creek M : 6 1880 Norris For Walter W. De 
 Lacy, first white man known to have passed along the valley. 
 (See "Shoshone Lake.") First named Madison Creek by 
 the Hayden party in 1871. 
 
 Duck Creek G : 3 1895 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Elk Creek D : 9 Named prior to 1870 Characteristic. 
 
 Elk Tongue Creek C : 12 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Escarpment Creek Q : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Fairy Creek J : 4 1871 Barlow From "Fairy Falls," 
 which see. 
 
 Falcon Greek R : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 Falls River S : 1 1872 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Fan Creek C : 2 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Fawn Creek G : 5 1873 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Firehole River I : 4 This name and " Burnt Hole " have 
 been used to designate the geyser basins and the stream flow- 
 ing through them since at least as far back as 1830. Captain 
 Bonueville says it was well known to his men. The term 
 " Hole " is a relic of the early days when the open valleys or 
 parks among the mountains were called " holes." The de- 
 
STREAMS. 317 
 
 scriptive "fire, naturally arose from the peculiar character 
 of that region." 
 
 Firehok, Little L : 4 1878 U. S. G. 8. From maiiv 
 stream. 
 
 Flint Creek F : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Forest Creek Q : 7 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Fox Greek R : 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Gallatin River A : 1 1805 Lewis and Clark For Al- 
 bert Gallatin, Secretary of War under President Jefferson. 
 
 Gardiner River (5360) B : 6 This name, which, after 
 "Yellowstone," is the most familiar and important name in the 
 Park, is the most difficult to account for. The first authentic 
 use of the name occurs in 1870, in the writings of the Washburn 
 party. In Mr. Langford's journal, kept during the expedi- 
 tion, is the following entry for August 25, 1870 : "At nine- 
 teen miles from our morning camp we came to Gardiner River, 
 at the mouth of which we camped." As the party did not 
 originate the name, and as they make no special reference to 
 it in any of their writings, it seems clear that it must already 
 have been known to them at the time of their arrival at the 
 stream. None of the surviving members has the least recol- 
 lection concerning it. The stream had been known to pros- 
 pectors during the preceding few years as Warm Spring 
 Creek, and the many " old timers" consulted on the subject 
 erroneously think that the present name was given by the 
 Washburn Party or by the Hayden Party of 1871. What 
 is its real origin is therefore a good deal of a mystery. 
 
 The only clue, and that not a satisfactory one, which has 
 come under our observation, is to be found in the book " River 
 of the West," already quoted. Reference is there made to a 
 trapper by the name of Gardiner, who lived in the Upper 
 Yellowstone country as far back aa 1830, and was at one time- 
 a companion of Joseph Meek, the hero of the book. In an- 
 other place it is stated that in 1838, Meek started alone from 
 Missouri Lake (probably Red Rock Lake) " for the Gallatin, 
 
318 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Fork of the Missouri, trapping in a mountain basin called 
 Gardiner's Hole. . . . On his return, in another basin 
 called Burnt Hole, he found a buffalo skull, etc." As is well 
 known, the sources of the Gallatiu and Gardiner are interlaced 
 with each other, and this reference strongly points to the pres- 
 ent Gardiner Valley as " Gardiner's Hole." The route across 
 the Gallatin Range to Mammoth Hot Springs, and thence 
 back by way of the Firehole Basin, was doubtless a natural 
 one then as it is now. It is therefore reasonable to suppose 
 that this name came from an old hunter in the early years of 
 the century, and that the Washburn Party received it from 
 some surviving descendant of those times. 
 
 Geode Creek C : 8 1878 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Geyser Creek -H : 6 1878 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Gibbon River I : 4 1872 U. S. G. S. For Gen. John 
 Gibbon, U. S. A., who first explored it. 
 
 "We have named this stream in honor of Gen. John Gib- 
 bon, United States Army, who has been in military command 
 of Montana for some years, and has, on many occasions, ren- 
 dered the survey most important services." Hayden.* 
 
 Glade Greek S :.6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Glen Creek C : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Gneiss Creek G : 1 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Gravel Creek U : 10 1895 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Grayling Creek -F : 1 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Grouse Creek O : 10 1885-U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 HarebeU Creek R : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Hart River Q : 9 1872 U. S. G. S. From Hart Lake, 
 of which it is the outlet. (See " Hart Lake.") 
 
 Hell Roaring Creek C : 91867" See Crevice Creek." 
 
 Indian Greek -E : 6 1878 U. S. G. S. See "Bannock 
 Peak." 
 
 Iron Greek L : 4 1871 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Jasper Creek D : 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 * Page 55, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
STREAMS. 319 
 
 Jay Creek S : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Jones Creek K : 15 1880 Norris For Captain (now 
 Lieutenant-Colonel) W. A. Jones, Corps of Engineers, U. S. 
 A., who first explored it. Captain Jones was leader of an im- 
 portant expedition through the Park in 1873, and has since 
 been largely identified with the development of the Park road 
 system. 
 
 Juniper Creek J : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Lamar River (5,970) D : 10 1885 U. S. G. S. For 
 the Hon. L. Q. C. Lamar, Secretary of the Interior during 
 the first administration of President Cleveland. The stream 
 is locally known only by its original designation, the " East 
 Fork of the Yellowstone." 
 
 Lava Creek D : 7 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Lewis JftiKT R : 7 1872 U. S. G. S. From "Lewis 
 Lake," which see. 
 
 Lizard Creek \J : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Lost Greek D : 9 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Lupine Creek D : 7 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Lynx Creek Q : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Madixon River G : 1 1805 Lewis and Clark For James 
 Madison, Secretary of State to Thomas Jefferson. 
 
 Magpie Ci-erkJ : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Maple Creek G : 2 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Mason Creek L : 16 1881 Norris For Major Julius W. 
 Mason, U. S. A., commander of escort to Gov. Hoyt, of Wy- 
 oming, on the latter's reconnaissance for a wagon road to the 
 Park in 1881. 
 
 Meadow Creek M : 11 1885 U. 8. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Middle Creek L, : 15 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Miller Creek G : 13 1880 Norris For a mountaineer 
 named Miller. See " Calfee Creek." 
 
 Mink Creek T : 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Mist Creek I : 14 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Moose Creek N : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
320 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Moss Greek G : 10 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Mountain Creek P : 13 1885 U. S. G'. S. Character- 
 istic. 
 
 Mountain Ash Creek R : 3 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Nez Perce Creek (7,237) J : 4 1878 U. S. G. S. The 
 Nez Perce Indians passed up this stream on their raid through 
 the Park in 1877. It had previously been called " East Fork 
 of the Firehole." Prof. Bradley, of the U. S. Geological 
 Survey, christened it Hayden's Fork in 1872. (See Chapter 
 XIII, Part I.) 
 
 Obsidian Creek E : 6 1879 Norris Characteristic. 
 
 Opal Creek. E : 12 1885 U. S. G. S.- -Characteristic. 
 
 Otter Creek H : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Outlet Creek P : 9 1895 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Owl Creek T : 5 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Pacific Creek W : 11 1873 Jones Flows from Two- 
 Ocean Pass down the Pacific slope. 
 
 Panther Creek D : 5 1878 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Pebble Creek D : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Pelican Creek K : 10 Probably named by the Wash burn 
 Party in 1870. Hayden and Barlow, in 1871, use the name as 
 though it were already a fixture. Mr. Hedges says of this 
 stream : 
 
 "About the mouth of the little stream that we had just 
 crossed were numerous shallows and bars, which were cov- 
 ered by the acre with ducks, geese, huge white-breasted 
 cranes, and long-beaked pelicans, while the solitary albatross, 
 or sea-gull, circled above our heads with a saucy look that 
 drew many a random shot, and cost one, at least, its life." 
 
 Phlox Creek Q : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Plateau Creek C : 12 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Polecat Creek S : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Quartz Creek E : 10 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Rabbit Creek K : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
STREAMS. 321 
 
 Raven Creek J : 12 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Red Creek Q : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Rescue Creek G : 7 1878 U. S. G. S. Where Everts 
 was not found. (See " Mt. Everts.") 
 
 Rocky Creek O : 12 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Rose Creek T> : 12 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Sedge Creek K : 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Senecio Creek S : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Sentinel Creek J : 4 1872 U. S. G. S. "The two cen- 
 tral ones [geyser mounds] are the highest, and appear so much 
 as if they were guarding the Upper Valley, that this stream 
 was called Sentinel Branch." Bradley. 
 
 Shallow Creek F : 11 1895 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Sickle Creek Q : 10 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Slough Creek D : 10 1867 See "Crevice Creek." 
 
 Snake River (6,808) W : 8 1805 Lewis and Clark 
 From the Snake or Shoshone Indians, who dwelt in its 
 valley. 
 
 Soda Butte Creek E : 12 Probably named by miners 
 prior to 1870. From an extinct geyser or hot spring cone 
 near the mouth of the stream. 
 
 Solfatara Creek G : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Solution Creek M : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. The outlet of 
 Riddle Lake. 
 
 Sour Creek H : 9 1871 Barlow Characteristic. 
 
 Spirea Creek E, : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Spring Creek M : 5 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Spruce Creek J : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Squirrel Creek -N : 5 1878 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Stellaria Creek G : 3 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Stinkingwater River L : 16 1807 John Colter From 
 an offensive hot spring near the junction of the principal forks 
 of the stream. A most interesting fact, to which attention 
 was first publicly called by Prof. Arnold Hague, is the occur- 
 rence on the map, which Lewis and Clark sent to President 
 
322 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Jefferson in the spring of 1805, of the name " Stinking Cabiu 
 Creek," very nearly in the locality of the river Stinkingwater. 
 Prof. Hague, who published an interesting paper concerning 
 this map iu Science for November 4, 1877, thinks that pos- 
 sibly some trapper had penetrated this region even before 
 1804. But with Lewis aud Clark's repeated statements that 
 no white man had reached the Yellowstone prior to 1805, it 
 seems more likely that the name was derived from the In- 
 dians. 
 
 Straight Creek E : 5 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Sulphur Creek G : 9 1878 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 Locally this name is applied to a stream which flows from the 
 hot springs at the base of Sulphur Mountain. 
 
 Surface Creek G : 9 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Surprise Creek P : 9 1885 U. S. G. S. Its course, as 
 made known by recent explorations, was surprisingly different 
 from that which earlier explorations had indicated. 
 
 Tangled Creek J : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 A hot water stream which flows iu numberless interlaced 
 channels. 
 
 Thistle Greek J : 10 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 TJioroughfare Creek R : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Its valley 
 forms part of a very practicable route across the Yellowstone 
 Range. 
 
 Timothy Creek G : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Tower Creek D : 10 1870 Washburn Party From 
 " Tower Falls," which see. 
 
 Trail Creek O : 12 1873 Jones From an elk trail 
 along it. 
 
 Trappers' Creek P : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. A great 
 beaver resort. 
 
 Trout Creek I : 9 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Violet Creek 1 : 8 1872 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 " We named the small stream Violet Creek, from the pro- 
 fusion of violets growing upon its banks." Peale. 
 
STREAMS. 323 
 
 Weatel Creek K : 9 1895 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Willow Creek H : 14 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Winter Creek E : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Witch Creek O 8 1878 U. S. G. S. Probably from 
 the prevalence of hot springs phenomena along its entire 
 course. 
 
 Wolverine Creek R : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. Character- 
 istic. 
 
 Yellowstone River (8,100 and 5,360) U : 16 (enters map) ; 
 A : 5 (leaves map). See Part I, Chapter I. 
 
324 WATER-FALLS. 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 IV. 
 
 WATER-FALLS. 
 
 [Figures in parentheses indicate approximate heights of falls in feet. 
 These in most cases are not to be relied upon as strictly ac- 
 curate, there having been no published record of actual meas- 
 urements, except in the case of the Yellowstone Falls.] 
 
 CoUonade Falls P : 3 1885 U. S. G. 8. Characteristic. 
 
 Crystal Falls (129) G : 8 1870 Washburn Party. 
 Characteristic. The total fall includes three cascades. 
 
 Fairy Fall (250) K : 4 1871 Barlow. -Characteristic. 
 
 Firehole Falls (60) I : 4 Takes name from river. 
 
 Gibbon Falls (80) I : 5 Takes name from river. 
 
 Iris FaUsP : 3 1885 U. S. G. 8. Characteristic. 
 
 Kepler Cascade (80) L : 5 1881 Norris. For the SOD 
 of Hon. John W. Hoyt, Ex-Governor of Wyoming, who ac- 
 companied his father on a reconnaissance for a wagon road to 
 the Park in 1881. Norris speaks of him as " an intrepid 
 twelve-year old " boy who " unflinchingly shared in all the 
 hardships, privations, and dangers of the explorations of his 
 father," which included many hundred miles of travel on 
 horseback through that difficult country ; and in admiration 
 for the lad's pluck, he named this cascade in his honor. 
 
 Lewis Falls, Upper (80) P : 7 Takes name from river. 
 
 Lewis Falls, Lower (50) Q : 7 -Takes name from river. 
 
 Moose Falls R : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Mystic Falls L : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
WATER-FALLS. 325 
 
 Osprey Falls (150) D : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 
 Ouzel Falls P : 3 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Rainbow Falls (140) R : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. Height includes total of three falls. 
 
 Rustic Falls (70) D : 6 1878 Norris Characteristic. 
 
 Silver Cord Cascade G : 9 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Terraced Falls R : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. -Characteristic. 
 
 Tower Falls (132) D : 10 1870 Wash burn Party- 
 Characteristic. 
 
 "By a vote of a majority of the party this fall was called 
 Tower Fall." Washburn. 
 
 "At the crest of the fall the stream has cut its way through 
 amygdaloid masses, leaving tall spires of rock from 50 to 100 
 feet in height, and worn in every conceivable shape. . . . 
 Several of them stand like sentinels on the very brink of the 
 fall." Doane. 
 
 Undine FaUs (60) D : 7 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Union Falls Q : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Characteristic. 
 
 Virginia Cascade (60) H : 7 1886 By E. Lamartine, 
 at that time foreman in charge of government work in Park. 
 For the wife of the Hon. Chas. Gibson, President of the 
 Yellowstone Park Association. 
 
 Wraith FaUs (100) D : 7 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Yellowstone Falls (Upper 112; Lower 310) H : 9 From 
 the river which flows over them.* 
 
 * Record of the various measurements of the Upper and Lower 
 Falls of the Yellowstone River. 
 
 Folsom (1869) Upper Fall, 115 feet. Method not stated. 
 Lower Fall, 350 feet. Method not stated. 
 
 Doane (1870) Upper Fall, 115 feet. Line. 
 
 Langford (1870) Lower Fall, 350 feet. Line stretched on an in- 
 -line. 
 
326 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Moore's Sketch (1870) Lower Fall, 365 feet. Method not 
 stated. 
 
 Hayden (1871) Upper Fall, 140 feet. Method not stated. 
 Lower Fall, 350 feet. Method not stated. 
 Gannett (1872) Upper Fall, 140 feet. Barometer. 
 
 Lower Fall, 395 feet. Comparison of angles sub- 
 tended by Falls and by a tree of known height. 
 Jones (1873) Upper Fall, 150 feet. Barometer. 
 Lower Fall, 329 feet. Barometer. 
 Ludlow (1875) Upper Fall, 110 feet. Line. 
 Lower Fall, 310 feet. Line. 
 Gannet (1878) Upper Fall, 112 feet. Line. 
 
 Lower Fall, 297 feet. Line stretched on an incline. 
 U. S. G. S. (Recent) Upper Fall, 109 feet. Method not stated. 
 
 Lower Fall, 308 feet. Method not stated. 
 
 Chittenden (1892) Upper Fall, 112 feet between point of first 
 descent and level of pool below. Measured by means of a transit 
 instrument. Width of gorge at brink of fall, and a few feet above 
 water surface, 48 feet. 
 
LAKES. 
 
 327 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 V. 
 
 LAKES. 
 
 [Figures in parentheses denote elevations.] 
 
 Beach Lake (8,150) K : 8 1885 U. S. G. 8. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Beaver Lake (7,415) F : 6 1879 Norris Characteristic. 
 
 Beula Lake (7,530) R : 5 1872 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Bridger Lake (7,900) R : 13 Name a fixture prior to 
 1870. For James Bridger, the Daniel Boone of the Rockies, 
 
 JAMES nRTTIfJER. 
 
328 APPENDIX A. 
 
 and one of the most remarkable products of the trapping and 
 gold-seeking eras. 
 
 He was born in Richmond, Va., in March, 1804, and died 
 in Washington, Jackson Co., Mo., July 17, 1881. He 
 must have gone west at a very early age for he is known to 
 have been in the mountains in 1820. Niles Register for 1822 
 speaks of him as associated with Fitzpatrick in the Rocky 
 Mountain Fur Company. Another record of this period re- 
 veals him as leader of a band of whites sent to retake stolen 
 horses from the hostile Bannocks. In 1832, he had become a 
 resident partner in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. 
 That he was a recognized leader among the early mountaineers 
 while yet in his minority seems beyond question. He be- 
 came " The Old Man of the Mountains" before he was thirty 
 years of age. 
 
 Among the more prominent achievements of Bridger's life 
 may be noted the following: He was long a leading spirit in 
 the great Rocky Mountain Fur Company. He discovered 
 Great Salt Lake and the noted Pass that bears his name. 
 He built Fort Bridger in the lovely valley of Black Fork of 
 Green River, where transpired many thrilling events con- 
 nected with the history of the Mormons and " Forty-niners." 
 He had explored, and could accurately describe, the wonders 
 of the Yellowstone fully a quarter of a century before their 
 final discovery. 
 
 In person he was tall and spare, straight and agile, eyes 
 gray, hair brown and long, and abundant even in old age; 
 expression mild, and manners agreeable. He was hospitable 
 and generous, and was always trusted and respected. He 
 possessed to a high degree the confidence of the Indians, one 
 of whom, a Shoshone woman, he made his wife. 
 
 Unquestionably Bridger's chief claim to remembrance by 
 prosterity rests upon the extraordinary part he bore in the ex- 
 ploration of the West. The common verdict of his many em- 
 ployers, from Robert Campbell down to Captain Raynolds, is 
 
LAKES. 329 
 
 that as a guide he was without an equal. He was a born 
 topographer. The whole West was mapped out in his mind 
 as in an exhaustive atlas. Such was his instinctive sense of 
 locality and direction that it used to be said that he could 
 " smell his way " where he could not see it. He was not only 
 a good topographer in the field, but he could reproduce his 
 impressions in sketches. " With a buffalo skin and a piece of 
 charcoal," says Captain Gunnison, " he will map out any por- 
 tion of this immense region, and delineate mountains, streams, 
 and the circular valleys, called ' holes,' with wonderful ac- 
 curacy." His ability in this line caused him always to be in 
 demand as guide to exploring parties, and his name is con- 
 nected with scores of prominent government and private ex- 
 peditions. 
 
 His lifetime measures that period of our history during 
 which the West was changed from a trackless wilderness to 
 a settled and civilized country. He was among the first who 
 went to the mountains, and he lived to see all that had made 
 a life like his possible swept away forever. His name sur- 
 vives in many a feature of our western geography, but in 
 none with greater honor than in this little lake among the 
 mountains that he knew so well ; and near the source of that 
 majestic stream with which so much of his eventful life was 
 identified. 
 
 Delusion Lake (7,850) M : 9 1878 U. S. G. S. This 
 lake was long supposed to be an arm of the Yellowstone Lake, 
 and, in the fanciful comparison of the main lake to the for.rn 
 of the human hand, occupied the position of the index finger. 
 The delusion consisted in this mistaken notion of a permanent 
 connection between the two lakes. 
 
 Dryad Lake (8,250) K : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Duck Lake (7,850) M : 7 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
330 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Fern Lake (8,150) H : 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Frost Lake (7,350) I : 14 Unknown Characteristic. 
 
 Gallatin Lake (9,000) E : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Source 
 of the Gallatiu River. 
 
 Goose Lake (7,100) K : 4 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Grassy Lake (7,150) R : 5 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Grebe Lake (7,950) G : 8 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Grizzly Lake (7,490) F : 5 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Hart Lake (7,469) P : 9 According to Hayden, " long 
 known to the hunters of the region as Heart Lake." Named 
 prior to 1870 for an old hunter by the name of Hart Hunney 
 who in early times plied his trade in this vicinity. He was 
 possibly one of Bonneville's men, for he seems to have known 
 the General well and to have been familiar with his operations. 
 He was killed by a war party of Crows in 1852. 
 
 The spelling, Heart, dates from the expeditions of 1871. The 
 notion that the name arose from the shape of the lake seems 
 to have originated with Captain Barlow. It has generally 
 been accepted although there is really uo similarity between 
 the form of the lake and that of a heart. Lewis Lake is the 
 only heart-shaped lake in that locality. 
 
 Everts named Hart Lake, Bessie Lake, after his daughter. 
 
 Henry Lake (6,443) A noted lake outside the limits of the 
 Park passed by tourists entering the park from the west. It 
 is named for a celebrated fur trader, Andrew Henry, who 
 built a trading post in that vicinity in 1809. 
 
 Bering Lake (7,530) R : 5 1878 U. S. G. S. For Ru- 
 dolph Hering, Topographer on the Snake River Division of 
 the Hayden Survey for 1872. 
 
 Indian Pond J : 11 1880 Norris. An ancient, much- 
 
LAKES. 331 
 
 used camping-ground of Indians. " My favorite camp on 
 the Yellowstone Lake (and it evidently has been a favorite one 
 for the Indian) has ever been upon the grove-dotted bluff, 
 elevated thirty or forty feet above the lake, directly fronting 
 Indian Pond." Norris. 
 
 Isa Lake (8,250)-L : 6- 1893 N. P. R. R. For Miss 
 Isabel Jelke, of Cincinnati. 
 
 Jackson Lake (6,000) U-W : 6 Date unknown. For 
 David Jackson, a noted mountaineer and fur trader, and one 
 of the first three partners of the Rocky Mountain Fur Com- 
 pany. This lake was discovered by John Colter and was 
 named by Clark Lake Biddle, in honor of Nicholas Bid- 
 die, who first gave to the world an authentic edition of the 
 journal of the celebrated Lewis and Clark Expedition. 
 
 Jenny Lake South of Leigh Lake and off the map. 
 1872 U. S. G. S. For the wife of Richard Leigh. She was 
 a Shoshone Indian. 
 
 Leigh LakeW : 5 1872 U. S. G. S. For Richard 
 Leigh (" Beaver Dick"), a noted hunter, trapper, and guide 
 in the country around the Teton Mountains. The nickname 
 " Beaver Dick" arose, not from the fact that Leigh was an 
 expert beaver trapper, but on account of the striking resem- 
 blance of two abnormally large front teeth in his upper jaw to 
 the teeth of a beaver. The Indians called him " The Beaver." 
 
 Lewis Lake (7,720) O : 7 1872 U. S. G. S. For Cap- 
 tain Lewis of "Lewis and Clark " fame. 
 
 "As it had no name, so far as we could ascertain, we de- 
 cided to call it Lewis Lake, in memory of that gallant ex- 
 plorer Captain Meriwether Lewis. The south fork of the Col- 
 umbia, which was to have perpetuated his name, has reverted 
 to its Indian title Shoshone, and is commonly known by that 
 name, or its translation, Snake River. As this lake lies near 
 the head of one of the principal forks of that stream, it may 
 not be inappropriately called Lewis Lake." Bradley.* 
 
 * Page 249, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
332 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Lorn Lake (o,400) R : 3 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Lost Lake (8,500) M : 7 1885 U. S. G. S. Character- 
 istic. This is probably Norris' Two-Oceau-Pond, and is 
 doubtless also the lake referred to by Hayden iu the following 
 paragraph from his report for 1871 : 
 
 " We camped at night on the shore of a lake which seemed 
 to have no outlet. It is simply a depression which receives 
 the drainage of the surrounding hills. It is marshy around 
 the shores, and the surface is covered thickly with the leaves 
 and flowers of a large yellow lily." Hayden. 
 
 Madison Lake (8,250) N : 4 1872 U. S. G. S. 
 Head of the Madison River. 
 
 "A small lake, covering perhaps sixty acres, occupies the 
 southern end of the [Firehole] valley, where it bends to the 
 eastward ; and as the ultimate lake source of the Madison 
 River, is the only proper possessor of the name ' Madison 
 Lake.'" Bradley.* 
 
 Mallard Lake (8,000) L : 5 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Mary Lake (8,100) J : 7 1873 Tourist Party. Cir- 
 cumstance recorded by Rev. E. J. Stanley, one of the 
 party, and author of the book " Rambles in Wonderland," 
 describing the tour. The following extract is from his book : 
 
 " We passed along the bank of a lovely little lakelet, sleep- 
 ing in seclusion in the shade of towering evergreens, by which 
 it is sheltered from the roaring tempests. It is near the di- 
 vide, and on its pebbly shore some members of our party un- 
 furled the Stars and Stripes, and christened it Mary's Lake, 
 in honor of Miss Clark, a young lady belonging to our party." 
 
 This lake appears on Jones' map for the same year as Sum- 
 mit Lake. Everts is said to have passed it in his wanderings, 
 but there is no reliable evidence to that effect. 
 
 * Page 243, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
LAKES. 333 
 
 Mirror Lake (8,700) G : 12 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Obsidian Lake (7,650) E : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Riddle Lake (7,950) N : 8 1872 U. S. G. S. 
 
 " ' Lake Riddle ' is a fugitive name, which has been located 
 at several places, but nowhere permanently. It is supposed 
 to have been used originally to designate the mythical lake, 
 among the mountains, whence, according to the hunters, 
 water flowed to both oceans. I have agreed to Mr. Bering's 
 proposal to attach the name to this lake, which is directly 
 upon the divide at a point where the waters of the two oceans 
 start so nearly together, and thus to solve the unsolved ' rid- 
 dle' of the ' two-ocean-water.'" Bradley.* This was a year 
 before Captain Jones verified the existence of Two-Ocean- 
 Pass. 
 
 Shoshone Lake (7,740) M-N : 5-6 1872 U. S. G. S. 
 From Shoshone, or Snake River, which here finds its source. 
 This lake was first named De Lacy Lake, after its discoverer. 
 The Washburn Party (1870) appear to have named it after 
 their leader. In 1871, Doctor Hayden. failing to identify its 
 location, and believing it to be tributary to the Madison River, 
 renamed it Madison Lake. It is this name which appears on 
 the first map of the Park and in the Act of Dedication, where 
 the west boundary of the Park is described as being " fifteen 
 miles west of the most western point of Madison Lake." In 
 1872, when the correct drainage of the lake was discovered, 
 the name "Madison Lake" was transferred to its present lo- 
 cation (See "Madison Lake"), and its place supplied by 
 "Shoshone Lake." The Act of Dedication is therefore mis- 
 leading, and it is necessary to know that " Madison Lake" of 
 the Act, is " Shoshone Lake " now, in order to understand the 
 true location of the west boundary of the Park. 
 
 * Page 250, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
334 APPENDIX A. 
 
 In changing the name from " De Lacy" to " Shoshone," 
 Prof. F. H. Bradley, of the United States Geological Survey, 
 took occasion to reflect severely and unjustifiably upon 
 De Lacy's work in mapping the country.* 
 
 De Lacy felt deeply wronged by this action, and Dr. Hay- 
 den promised him that he would set the matter right ; but 
 nothing was done. At a later day, Colonel Norris endeavored 
 to do De Lacy tardy justice by placing his name on the 
 stream which enters the lake from the north and drains the 
 beautiful valley now crossed by the tourist route. This name 
 remained for several year's, when it also was removed by the 
 United States Geological Survey, and its place filled by 
 " Heron Creek." During the past year, however, the name 
 " De Lacy Creek" has been restored. 
 
 Summit Lake (8,450) M : 3 1885 U. S. G. S. Near 
 Continental Divide. 
 
 Swan Lake (7,200) D : 6 1879 Norris Characteristic. 
 
 Sylvan Lake (8,300) L : 13 1878 U. S. G. S. Char- 
 acteristic. 
 
 Tern Lake (8,150) I: 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Trout Lake (6,850) D : 13 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Turbid Lake (7,800) K : 11 1878 U. S. G. H. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Twin Lakes (7,450) G : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. Character- 
 istic. 
 
 Wapiti Lake (8,500) H : 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 White Lake (8,150) I : 11 1885 U. S. G. S. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Woods, Lake of the (7,550) F : 6 1885 U. S. G. S. 
 Characteristic. 
 
 Yellowstone Lake (7,741) K-O : 8-12 From the river 
 
 * Page 244, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. 
 
LAKES, ISLANDS, BAYS. 335 
 
 which flows through it. This lake was named, on the map 
 showing " Colter's Route in 1807," Lake Eustis, in honor of 
 William Eustis, Secretary of War to President Madison, 1809 
 to 1812. . 
 
 Later it appears as Sublette Lake, in honor of the noted 
 fur trader, William Sublette. It is even said at one time to 
 have borne the " fugitive name," Riddle Lake. But it early 
 became known by its present name. 
 
 The islands of this lake are seven in number. They seem 
 to have all been named by the United States Geological 
 Survey largely for the employes of the survey. They are : 
 
 Carrington Island. For Campbell Carrington, zoologist. 
 
 Dot Island. A mere dot on the map. 
 
 Frank Island. For the brother of Henry W. Elliott, a 
 member of the Hayden Expedition of 1871. This Island 
 was renamed Belkuap Island in 1875 by the members of 
 Secretary Belknap's party, who passed through the Park in 
 that year. The name, however, never came into use. 
 
 Molly Island. For the wife of Mr. Henry Gannett. 
 
 Peale Island. For Dr. A. C. Peale, author of the elaborate 
 report on thermal springs which appears in Hayden's report 
 for 1878. 
 
 Pelican Roost Characteristic. 
 
 Stevenson Island. For James Stevenson. See " Mt. 
 Stevenson." 
 
 The bays are also seven in number, of which only the fol- 
 foling merit notice : 
 
 Mary Bay. Named by Henry W. Elliott for Miss Mary 
 Force. 
 
 Thumb. From the old fancy that the form of the lake re- 
 sembled that of the human hand. 
 
 Bridge Bay. From Bridge Creek. See "Bridge Creek." 
 
336 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 The capes are thirteen in number. We need notice only 
 Signal Point, which was much used in signaling by the early 
 explorers; Steamboat Point, named from the Steamboat 
 Springs near by ; and Storm Point, so named because it re- 
 ceives the full force of the prevailing south-west winds from 
 across the lake. 
 
 " The Annie" The first boat on the Yellowstone Lake was 
 a small canvass craft 12 feet long by 3^ feet wide. Dr. Hay- 
 
 "THE ANNIE." 
 
 den records that, it was, christened The Annie, "by Mr. 
 Stevenson, in compliment to Miss Anna L. Dawes, the ami- 
 able daughter of Hon. H. L. Dawes." 
 
LAKES, ISLANDS, BAYS. 337 
 
 The boat was extemporized by Mr. James Stevenson from 
 such materials as could be picked up. In the classic picture 
 of this historic craft, the persons in the boat are James Ste- 
 venson and Henry W. Elliott. An original photograph of 
 the boat now adorns the cabin of the Zillah, the small steam- 
 boat which conveys tourists about the Lake. 
 
338 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 VI. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS FEATURES. 
 [Numbers in parentheses indicate altitudes.] 
 
 Craig Pass (8,300) L : 6 1891 From the maiden name 
 of Mrs. Ida Craig' Wilcox, the first tourist to cross the pass. 
 
 Hayden Valley (7,800) H-J : 8-10 1878 U. S. G. S. 
 For the eminent American geologist, Ferdinand Vandiveer 
 
 Hayden, M. D., LL. D., 
 whose important part in the 
 history of the Yellowstone 
 National Park has been fully 
 set forth in previous pages. 
 The following condensed 
 sketch of his life is from the 
 pen of Dr. A. C. Peale : * 
 
 "He was born at 
 Westfield, Mass., September 
 7, 1829. ... His father 
 died when he was about ten 
 years of age, and about two 
 years later he went to live 
 with an uncle at Rochester, in 
 Loraiu County, Ohio, where 
 
 he remained for six years. He taught in the country district 
 schools of the neighborhood during his sixteenth and seven- 
 
 FERDINAND VANDIVEER HAYDEN. 
 
 * Bulletin Philosophical Society of Washington, Vol. VI, pp. 
 476-478. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS FEATURES. 339 
 
 teenth years, and at the age of eighteen went to Oberlin Col- 
 lege, where he was graduated in 1850. 
 
 " He studied medicine with Dr. J. S. Newberry, at Cleve- 
 land, and at Albany was graduated Doctor of Medicine in the 
 early part of 1853. After his graduation, he was sent by 
 Prof. James Hall, of New York, to the Bad Lands of White 
 River, in Dakota. The years 1854 and 1855 he spent explor- 
 ing and collecting fossils in the Upper Missouri country, 
 mainly at his own expense. From 1856 until 1859, he was 
 connected as geologist with the expeditions of Lieutenant 
 Warren, engaged in explorations in Nebraska and Dakota. 
 From 1859 until 1862, he was surgeon, naturalist, and geolo- 
 gist with Captain W. F. Raynolds, in the exploration of the 
 Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers. In October, 1862, he was 
 appointed acting assistant surgeon and assistant medical in- 
 spector until June, 1865, when he resigned, and was bre- 
 vetted lieutenant-colonel for meritorious services during the 
 war. He then resumed his scientific work, and in 1866 made 
 another trip to the Bad Lands of Dakota, this time in the in- 
 terest of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia. 
 In 1865, he was elected professor of mineralogy and geology 
 in the University of Pennsylvania, which position he resigned 
 in 1872. From 1867 to 1879, his history is that of the or- 
 ganization of which he had charge, which began as a geologi- 
 cal survey of Nebraska, and became finally the Geological 
 Survey of the Territories. . . . From 1879 until Decem- 
 ber, 1886, he was connected with the United States Geologi- 
 cal Survey as geologist. His health began to fail soon after 
 his connection with this organization, and gradually became 
 worse, and he lived only a year after his resignation. 
 
 "In 1876, the degree of LL.D. was conferred upon him by 
 the University of Rochester, and in June, 1886, he received 
 the same degree from the University of Pennsylvania. He 
 was a member of seventeen scientific societies in the United 
 States, among them the National Academy of Sciences, and 
 
340 APPENDIX A. 
 
 was honorary and corresponding member of some seventy 
 foreign societies. A bibliography of his writings includes 158 
 titles. 
 
 ". . . The gentleness and diffidence, approaching even 
 timidity, which impressed his fellow-students at Oberlin, 
 characterized Dr. Hayden throughout his life, and rendered 
 it somewhat difficult for those who did not know him inti- 
 mately to understand the reasons for his success, which was 
 undoubtedly due to his energy and perseverance, qualities 
 which were equally characteristic of him as a boy and student 
 and in later life. His desire to forward the cause of science 
 was sincere and enthusiastic, and he was always ready to 
 modify his views upon the presentation of evidence. He was 
 intensely nervous, frequently impulsive, but ever generous, 
 and his honesty and integrity undoubted. The greater part 
 of his work for the government and for science was a labor 
 of love." 
 
 Jones Pass (9,450) K : 12 1880 Norris For its discov- 
 erer, Captain W. A. Jones, Corps of Engineers, CJ. S. A., 
 who passed through it in 1873. 
 
 Kingman Pass (7,230) D : 6 1883 U. S. G. S. The 
 pass of which Golden Gate is the northern entrance. For 
 Lieutenant D. C. Kingman, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., 
 who built the road through the pass. 
 
 Norris Geyser Basin (7,527) G-H : 6 For P. W. Norris, 
 who first explored and described it, and opened it up to tour- 
 ists. It was, however, discovered iu 1872 by E. S. Topping 
 and Dwight Woodruff, who were led in that direction by no- 
 ticing from the summit of Bunsen Peak a vast column of 
 steam ascending to the southward. The day after this dis- 
 covery, a tourist party, including a Mr. and Mrs. H. H. 
 Stone, of Bozemau, Montana, visited it from Mammoth Hot 
 Springs, and then continued their course, by way of the gen- 
 eral line of the present route, to the Firehole Geyser Basin. 
 Mrs. Stone was the first white woman to visit the Park. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS FEATURES. 341 
 
 Norris Pass (8,260) M : 6 1879 Norris For its discov- 
 erer. 
 
 Raynolds Pass (6,911) Not on map. Crosses the Conti- 
 nental Divide to the northward of Henry Lake, and connects 
 the valley of Henry Fork with that of the Madison. Named 
 for Captain W. F. Raynolds, who led his expedition through 
 it in 1860. 
 
 Sylvan Pass (8,650) L : 13 1895 U. S. G. 8. Charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Targhee Pass (7,063) Not on map. Crosses the Continen- 
 tal Divide to the eastward of Henry Lake, and leads from the 
 valley of Henry Fork to that of the Madison. The origin 
 and orthography of this name are uncertain. In Hayden's 
 Report for 1872, occur three spellings, Targhee, Tyghee, and 
 Tahgee. The weight of evidence is in favor of the form 
 here adopted. There was an impression among the Hayden 
 Survey people, in 1872, that the name was given in honor of 
 some distinguished Indian Chief; but that there was no defi- 
 nite information on the point is evident from the following 
 statements, taken from Hayden's Report for 1872. On page 
 56, it is stated that Tahgee Pass "was named years ago for 
 the head chief of the Bannocks." On page 227, it is said 
 that Tyghee Pass " was named for an old Shoshone chief who 
 was wont to use it." The real origin is thus left somewhat 
 obscure, but it is probable that the notion that the pass was 
 named for an Indian chief may have some foundation in 
 fact. There was living among the Bannocks within the 
 present memory of white men a chief whose name was pro- 
 nounced Ti-gee. 
 
342 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 vir. 
 
 LIST OF THE PROMINENT GEYSERS. 
 
 The numbers in the third column are the highest recorded 
 eruptions. The numbers in the fourth and fifth columns are 
 not to be taken as indicating the correct duration or period- 
 icity of eruptions. The prevalent notion that geysers exhibit 
 uniform periodicity of action, is erroneous. There is only 
 one geyser of importance in the Park that can be depended 
 on, and that is Old Faithful. The figures for the other 
 geysers are merely rough averages, true, perhaps, as the mean 
 of a year's observations, but not at all to be relied upon in 
 predicting particular eruptions. 
 
 The following abbreviations are used: " M. H. S.," for Mam- 
 moth Hot Springs; " N. G. B.," "L. G. B.," " M. G. B.," " U. G. 
 B.," "8. G. B.," and "H. G. B.," for the Norris, Lower, Middle, 
 Upper, Shoshone, and Hart Lake, Geyser Basins respectively; 
 " E. S. Y." and " W. S. Y." for the East and West Shores respect- 
 ively of the Yellowstone Lake; " s." for second; "m." for 
 minute ; " h." for hour; and " d." for day. 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Loca- 
 tion. 
 
 Eruptions. 
 
 Authors of Names. 
 Remarks. 
 
 Height. 
 
 Dura- 
 tion. 
 
 Inter- 
 val. 
 
 Arsenic 
 
 N. G. B. 
 
 
 
 
 U. S. G. S. 
 
 Artemesia 
 Atomizer. . 
 
 U. G. B. 
 U. G. B. 
 L. G. B. 
 
 U. G. B. 
 U. G. B. 
 
 150 ft. 
 20ft. 
 
 220ft. 
 
 10m. 
 10 in. 
 
 8 m. 
 
 2d. 
 20 h. 
 
 U. S. G. S. 
 Unknown. 
 Has a "beautifully 
 beaded tube." Corn- 
 stock. 
 Washburn Partv. 
 U. 3. G. S. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 
 Bead 
 Bee Hive 
 
 Bijou 
 
 Bulser . . . 
 
 U. G. B. 
 
 5ft. 
 
 
 
LIST OF THE PROMINENT GEYSERS. 
 
 343 
 
 
 
 Eruptions. 
 
 
 
 T nnt% 
 
 
 Authors of Names. 
 
 NAME. 
 
 .Loca- 
 tion. 
 
 Height. 
 
 Dura- 
 tion. 
 
 Inter- 
 val. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Castle 
 
 U. G. B. 
 
 100ft. 
 
 25m. 
 
 24 h. 
 
 Washburn Party. "From 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a distance it strongly 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 resembles an old feu- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 dal castle partially in 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ruins." Doane. 
 
 Catfish 
 
 L. G. B. 
 
 
 
 
 U. 8. G. 8. 
 
 Chinaman 
 
 U. G. B. 
 
 
 
 
 U. S. G. 8. Really a qui- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 escent spring. Some- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 times called a geyser 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 from the circumstance 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 that a Chinaman who 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 had used it for a wash- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 tub caused an eruption 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 by the soap put in the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 spring, thus initiating 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the practice of "soap- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ing geysers." 
 
 Clepsydra 
 
 L. G. B. 
 
 50ft. 
 
 10s. 
 
 3 m. 
 
 " Like the ancient water- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 clock of that name, it 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 marks the passage of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 time by the discharge 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 of water." Comstock 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (1873). 
 
 Comet 
 
 U. G. B. 
 
 60ft. 
 
 1 m. 
 
 
 U. S. G. 8. 
 
 Congress 
 
 N. G. B. 
 
 
 
 
 Came into existence in 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the winter of 1893. Like 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the memorable 53d 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Congress, for which it 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 is named, its perform- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ance is sadly incom- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 mensurate with its 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 promises. 
 
 Constant 
 
 N. G. B. 
 
 40ft. 
 
 10s. 
 
 1m. 
 
 Norris. 
 
 Cubs 
 
 U. G. B. 
 
 
 
 
 See ' Lion." 
 
 Deluge. . . .... 
 
 H G. B 
 
 15ft. 
 
 
 
 U. S. G. S. 
 
 Echinus 
 
 N G B 
 
 20ft. 
 
 
 
 U. S. G. 8. 
 
 Economic 
 
 U. G. B. 
 
 
 
 
 No water lost in erup- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 tion ; all falls back into 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 crater. 
 
 Excelsior 
 
 M. G. B. 
 
 300 ft. 
 
 
 1 to 4 h. 
 
 "A geyser so immeasur- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ably excelling any 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 other ancient or mod- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ern known to history 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 that I find but one 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 name fitting, and here- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 in christen it the Ex- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 celsior." Norris. The 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sheridan parties in 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1881 and 1882 called it 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the Sheridan Geyser. 
 
 Fan 
 
 U. G B 
 
 60ft. 
 
 10 m. 
 
 8 h. 
 
 Washburn Party. 
 
 Fearless 
 
 N. G. B. 
 
 
 
 
 Norris. 
 
 Fissure 
 
 N G. B 
 
 100ft. 
 
 20 in. 
 
 2 h. 
 
 U. S. G. S. 
 
 Fitful 
 
 L. G. B. 
 
 3ft. 
 
 
 
 Comstock. 
 
 Fountain 
 
 L. G B 
 
 60ft 
 
 15 m. 
 
 4 h 
 
 U. S. G. S. 
 
 Giant 
 
 U. G. B. 
 
 200ft. 
 
 90 m. 
 
 6d. 
 
 Washburn Party. 
 
 Giantess 
 
 U. G. B. 
 
 250ft. 
 
 12 h. 
 
 14 d. 
 
 Washburn Party. 
 
 Grand. 
 
 U. G. B. 
 
 200 ft. 
 
 20m. 
 
 20 h. 
 
 U. S. G. S. 
 
 Gray Bulger. . . 
 
 L. G. B. 
 
 1ft. 
 
 30s. 
 
 1m. 
 
 U. S. G. S. 
 
 Great Fountain.. 
 
 L. G B. 
 
 100 ft. 
 
 
 
 U. S. G. S. Called Ar- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 chitectural Fountain 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 in 1871. 
 
344 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 t 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Loca- 
 tion. 
 
 Eruptions. 
 
 Authors of Names., 
 Remarks. 
 
 Height. 
 
 Dura- 
 tion. 
 
 Inter- 
 val. 
 
 Grotto 
 
 U. G. B. 
 L. G. B. 
 U. G. B. 
 U. G. B. 
 
 U. G. B. 
 
 M :5. 
 
 N. G. B. 
 U. G. B. 
 
 40ft. 
 15ft. 
 50ft. 
 60ft. 
 
 80ft. 
 60ft. 
 
 40ft. 
 
 30 m. 
 
 i m. 
 8 m. 
 
 10m. 
 10m. 
 
 20s. 
 
 4h. 
 
 50 m. 
 24 h. 
 
 24 h. 
 40 m. 
 
 90s. 
 
 Washburn Party. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 U. S. G. 8. 
 With Lioness and Cubs, 
 called "The Chim- 
 neys" by Barlow in 
 1871; renamed "Trin- 
 ity " Geysers by Corn- 
 stock in 1S73;' most 
 isolated cone called 
 "Niobe" by U.S. G. S. 
 in 1878; present name 
 given by Norris in 1881. 
 See "Lion." 
 Unknown. First called 
 "The Solitary" by the 
 U. S. G. S. in 1872. 
 Morris. 
 Peyser on a small scale. 
 Norris. 
 " Resembles in its erup- 
 tion the particular 
 piece of ordnance from 
 which it derives its 
 name." Havnes Guide 
 Book. 
 Morris. 
 Washburn Party. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 Washburn Party. 
 U. S: G. S. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 Barlow. 
 U. S. G. 8. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 Norris. 
 From appearance of its 
 crater. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 
 U. S. G. S. "From the 
 fancied appearance 
 of some of the large 
 globular masses in its 
 basin to a Turkish 
 head-dress." Peale. 
 U. S. G. S. in 1872. So 
 named " because of its 
 combination of the 
 various forms of gey- 
 seric action." Peale. 
 No. 1 is North Cone: 
 No. 2 Middle Cone; 
 and No. 3 South Cone. 
 Norris. 
 U. 8. G. S. 
 Earl of Dunraven. 
 U. S. G. S. 
 
 Jet 
 
 Jewell . 
 
 Lioness 
 
 Lone Star 
 
 Minute 
 
 Model 
 
 
 N. G. B. 
 N. G. B. 
 
 N. G. B. 
 I : 9 
 U. G. B. 
 U. G. B. 
 N. G. B. 
 N. G. B. 
 L G B. 
 
 125ft. 
 60ft. 
 
 10ft. 
 30ft. 
 40ft. 
 150 ft. 
 
 50ft. 
 
 20m. 
 6 m. 
 
 5 m. 
 20m. 
 4m. 
 4^m. 
 
 12h. 
 8h. 
 
 20 m. 
 3h. 
 8h. 
 65 m. 
 
 75 m. 
 
 8h'." 
 15m. 
 
 
 Mud Geyser. . . . 
 Mud Geyser. . . . 
 Oblong 
 Old Faithful .,. 
 Pearl 
 Pebble . . 
 
 
 Restless 
 Riverside 
 Rosette 
 
 U. G. B. 
 U. G. B. 
 L. G. B. 
 H. G. B. 
 U. G. B. 
 U. G. B. 
 S. G. B. 
 
 80ft. 
 30 ft. 
 47ft. 
 35ft. 
 20 ft. 
 
 15m. 
 4 m. 
 
 Rustic 
 
 
 Sentinel 
 
 
 
 Shield 
 
 
 
 
 U. G. B. 
 H.G. B. 
 
 5ft. 
 
 
 
 Spike 
 
 Splendid 
 
 U. G. B. 
 U G. B. 
 
 200 ft. 
 
 10m. 
 
 3h. 
 
 Steady 
 
 L. G. B. 
 U. G. B. 
 U. G. B. 
 
 S. G. B. 
 
 30ft. 
 100 ft. 
 20 ft. 
 
 114ft. 
 66ft. 
 3ft. 
 
 "'i'i'ft'." 
 
 20ft. 
 20ft. 
 
 
 
 Surprise. 
 
 2 
 
 25m. 
 
 60m. 
 
 
 Turban 
 
 5h. 
 
 Union (1) ... 
 
 (2) .. 
 
 (8) ... . 
 
 
 
 
 Vixen.. 
 White Dome .. 
 Young Faithful. 
 Youne Hooeful. 
 
 N. G. B. 
 L. G. B. 
 U G.B. 
 L. G. B. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS. 345 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS NOW IN FORCE 
 AFFECTING THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL 
 PARK. 
 
 THE ACT OP DEDICATION. 
 
 AN ACT to set apart a certain tract of land lying near the head- 
 waters of the Yellowstone River as a public park. 
 
 Be it enacted by the Senate and Souse of Representatives of the 
 United States of America in Congress assembled, That the tract 
 of land in the Territories of Montana and Wyoming lying 
 near the headwaters of the Yellowstone River, and described 
 as follows, to wit: commencing at the junction of Gardiner's 
 River with the Yellowstone River and running east of the 
 meridian, passing ten miles to the eastward of the most east- 
 ern point of Yellowstone Lake ; thence south along the 
 said meridian to the parallel of latitude, passing ten miles 
 south of the most southern point of Yellowstone Lake; 
 thence west along said parallel to the meridian, passing 
 fifteen miles west of the most western point of Madison 
 Lake ; thence north along said meridian to the latitude of 
 the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner's Rivers; 
 thence east to the place of beginning, is hereby reserved and 
 withdrawn from settlement, occupancy, or sale under the 
 laws of the United States, and dedicated and set apart as a 
 public park or pleasuring ground for the benefit and enjoyment 
 of the people ; and all persons who shall locate, or settle upon, 
 or occupy the same or any part thereof, except as hereinafter 
 
346 APPENDIX B. 
 
 provided, shall be considered trespassers and removed there- 
 from. 
 
 SEC. 2. That said public park shall be under the exclusive 
 control of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall 
 be as soon as practicable, to make and publish such rules and 
 regulations as he may deem necessary or proper for the care 
 and management of the same. Such regulations shall pro- 
 vide for the preservation from injury or spoliation of all tim- 
 ber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or wonders within 
 said park, and their retention in their natural condition. 
 
 The Secretary may, in his discretion, grant leases for build- 
 ing purposes, for terms not exceeding en years, of small par- 
 cels of ground, at such places in said park as shall require the 
 erection of buildings for the accommodation of visitors ; all of 
 the proceeds of said leases, and all other revenues that may 
 be derived from any source connected with said park, to be 
 expended under his direction in the management of the same 
 and the construction of roads and bridle-paths therein. He 
 shall provide against the wanton destruction of the fish and 
 game found within said park and against their capture or de- 
 struction for the purposes of merchandise or profit. He shall 
 also cause all persons trespassing upon the same after the pas- 
 sage of this act to be removed therefrom, and generally shall 
 be authorized to take all such measures as shall be necessary 
 or proper to fully carry out the objects and purposes of this 
 act. 
 
 Approved March 1, 1872. 
 Signed by : 
 
 JAMES G. ELAINE, Speaker of the House. 
 
 SCHUYLER COLFAX, Vice-President of the United States 
 fnd President of the Senate. 
 
 ULYSSES S. GRANT, President of the United States. 
 
LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS. 347 
 
 MILITARY ASSISTANCE AUTHORIZED FOR PRO- 
 TECTING THE PARK 
 
 SUNDRY CIVIL BILL FOB 1883. 
 
 . . . The Secretary of War, upon the request of the Secre- 
 tary of the Interior, is hereby authorized and directed to make 
 the necessary details of troops to prevent traspassers or intruders 
 from entering the park for the purpose of destroying the 
 game or objects of curiosity therein, or for any other purpose 
 prohibited by law, and to remove such persons from the park 
 if found therein. 
 
 Approved, March 3, 1883. 
 
 ADMISSION OF THE STATE OF WYOMING. 
 
 SEC. 2. . . . Provided, That nothing in this act con- 
 tained shall repeal or affect any act of Congress relating 
 to the Yellowstone National Park, or the reservation of 
 the park as now defined, or as may be hereafter defined 
 or extended, or the power of the United States over it ; 
 and nothing contained in this act shall interfere with 
 the right and ownership of the United States in said 
 park and reservation as it now is or may hereafter be defined 
 or extended by law : but exclusive legislation, in all cases 
 whatsoever, shall be exercised by the United States, which 
 shall have exclusive control and jurisdiction over the same; 
 but nothing in this proviso contained shall be construed to 
 prevent the service within said park of civil and criminal pro- 
 cess lawfully issued by the authority of said state ; and the 
 said state shall not be entitled to select indemnity school lands 
 for the sixteenth and thirty-sixth sections that may be in said 
 park reservation, as the same is now defined or may be here- 
 after defined. 
 
 Approved, July 10, 1890. 
 
348 APPENDIX B. 
 
 THE NATIONAL PARK PROTECTIVE ACT. 
 
 AN ACT to protect the birds and animals in Yellowstone Na- 
 tional Park, and to punish crimes in said park, and for other 
 purposes. 
 
 Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the 
 United States of America in Congress assembled, That the Yel- 
 lowstone National Park, as its boundaries now are defined, or 
 as they may be hereafter defined or extended, shall be under 
 the sole and exclusive jurisdiction of the United States; and 
 that all the laws applicable to places under the sole and 
 exclusive jurisdiction of the United States shall have force 
 and effect in said park ; provided, however, that nothing 
 in this Act shall be construed to forbid the service in 
 the park of any civil or criminal process of any court having 
 jurisdiction in the States of Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. 
 All fugitives from justice takiug refuge in said park shall be 
 subject to the same laws as refugees from justice found in the 
 State of Wyoming. 
 
 SEC. 2. That said park, for all the purposes of this Act, 
 shall constitute a part of the United States judicial district of 
 Wyoming and the District and Circuit Courts of the United 
 States in and for said district shall have jurisdiction of all 
 offenses committed within said park. 
 
 SEC. 3. That if any offense shall be committed in said Yel- 
 lowstone National Park, which offense is not prohibited or the 
 punishment is not specially provided for by any law of the 
 United States or by any regulation of the Secretary of the 
 Interior, the offender shall be subject to the same punishment 
 as the laws of the State of Wyoming in force at the time of 
 the commission of the offense may provide for a like offense 
 in the said State ; and no subsequent repeal of any such law 
 of the State of Wyoming shall affect any prosecution for said 
 offense committed within said park. 
 
 SEC. 4. That all hunting, or the killing, wounding, or 
 
LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS. 349 
 
 capturing at any time of any bird or wild animal, except 
 dangerous animals, when it is necessary to prevent them from 
 destroying human life or inflicting an injury, is prohibited 
 within the limits of said park ; nor shall any fish be taken 
 out of the waters of the park by means of seines, nets, traps, 
 or by the use of drugs or any explosive substances or com- 
 pounds, or in any other way than by hook and line, and then 
 only at such seasons and in such times and manner as may 
 be directed by the Secretary of the Interior. That the Secre- 
 tary of the Interior shall make and publish such rules and reg- 
 ulations as he may deem necessary and proper for the manage- 
 ment and care of the park and for the protection of the property 
 therein, especially for the preservation from injury or spolia- 
 tion of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or 
 wonderful objects within-said park ; and for the protection of 
 the animals and birds in the park, from capture or destruc- 
 tion, or to prevent their being frightened or driven from the 
 park ; and he shall make rules and regulations governing the 
 taking of fish from the streams or lakes in the park. Posses- 
 sion within the said park of the dead bodies, or any part 
 thereof, of any wild bird or animal shall be prima facie evi- 
 dence that the person or persons having the same are guilty 
 of violating this Act. Any person or persons, or stage or ex- 
 press company or railway company, receiving for transporta- 
 tion any of the said animals, birds or fish so killed, taken or 
 caught, shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall 
 be fined for every such offense, not exceeding three hundred 
 dollars. Any person found guilty of violating any of the 
 provisions of this Act or any rule or regulation that may be 
 promulgated by the Secretary of the Interior with reference 
 to the management and care of the park, or for the protection 
 of the property therein, for the preservation from injury or 
 spoliation of timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities or 
 wonderful objects within said park, or for the protection of 
 the animals, birds and fish in the said park, shall be deemed 
 
350 APPENDIX B. 
 
 guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be subjected to a fine of 
 not more than one thousand dollars or imprisonment not ex- 
 ceeding two years, or both, and be adjudged to pay all costs 
 of the proceedings. 
 
 That all guns, traps, teams, horses, or means of transporta- 
 tion of every nature or description used by any person or per- 
 sons within said park limits when engaged in killing, trapping, 
 ensnaring, or capturing such wild beasts, birds, or wild animals 
 shall be forfeited to the United States, and may be seized by 
 the officers in said park and held pending the prosecution of 
 any person or persons arrested under charge of violating 
 the provisions of this Act, and upon conviction under this 
 Act of such person or persons using said guns, traps, teams, 
 horses, or other means of transportation, such forfeiture shall 
 be adjudicated as a penalty in addition to the other punish- 
 ment provided in this Act. Such forfeited property shall be 
 disposed and accounted for by and under the authority of the 
 Secretary of the Interior. 
 
 SEC. 5. That the United States Circuit Court in said dis- 
 trict shall appoint a commissioner, who shall reside in the 
 park, who shall have jurisdiction to hear and act upon all 
 complaints made, of any and all violations of the law, or of 
 the rules and regulations made by the Secretary of the Inte- 
 rior for the government of the park, and for the protection 
 of the animals, birds, and fish and objects of interest therein, 
 and for other purposes authorized by this Act. Such com- 
 missioner shall have power, upon sworn information, to issue 
 process in the name of the United States for the arrest of any 
 person charged with the commission of any misdemeanor, or 
 charged with the violation of the rules and regulations, or 
 with the violation of any provision of this Act prescribed for 
 the government of said park, and for the protection of the 
 animals, birds, and fish in the said park, and to try the per- 
 son so charged, and, if found guilty, to impose the punish- 
 ment and adjudge the forfeiture prescribed. In all cases of 
 
LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS. 351 
 
 conviction, au appeal shall lie from the judgment of said com- 
 missioner to the United States District Court for the district 
 of Wyoming, said appeal to be governed by the laws of the 
 State of Wyoming providing for appeals in cases of misde- 
 meanor from justices of the peace to the District Court of 
 said State; but the United States Circuit Court in said district 
 may prescribe rules of procedure and practice for said commis- 
 sioner in the trial of cases, and for appeal to said United 
 States District Court. Said commissioner shall also have 
 power to issue process as hereinbefore provided for the arrest 
 of any person charged with the commission of any felony 
 within the park, and to summarily hear the evidence intro- 
 duced, and, if he shall determine that probable cause is 
 shown for holding the person so charged for trial, shall cause 
 such person to be safely conveyed to a secure place for con- 
 finement, within the jurisdiction of the United States District 
 Court in said State of Wyoming, and shall certify a transcript 
 of the record of his proceedings and the testimony in the case 
 to the said court, which court shall have jurisdiction of the 
 case ; provided, that the said commissioner shall grant bail in 
 all cases bailable under the laws of the United States or of 
 said State. All process issued by the commissioner shall be 
 directed to the marshal of the United States for the district 
 of Wyoming; but nothing herein contained shall be con- 
 strued as preventing the arrest by any officer of the govern- 
 ment or employe of the United States in the park, without 
 process, of any person taken in the act of violating the law or 
 any regulation of the Secretary of the Interior; provided, 
 that the said commissioner shall only exercise such authority 
 and powers as are conferred by this Act. 
 
 SEC. 6. That the marshal of the United States for the dis- 
 trict of Wyoming may appoint one or more deputy marshals 
 for said park, who shall reside in said park, and the said 
 United States District and Circuit Courts shall hold one ses- 
 sion of said courts annually at the town of Sheridan, in the 
 
352 APPENDIX B. 
 
 State of Wyoming, and may also hold other sessions at any 
 other place in said State of Wyoming, or in said National 
 Park, at such dates as the said courts may order. 
 
 SEC. 7. That the commissioner provided for in this Act 
 shall, in addition to the fees allowed by law to commissioners 
 of the Circuit Courts of the United States, be paid an annual 
 salary of one thousand dollars, payable quarterly, and the 
 marshal of the United States, and his deputies, and the attor- 
 ney of the United States and his assistants in said district, 
 shall be paid the same compensation and fees as are now 
 provided by law for like services in said district. 
 
 SEC. 8. That all costs and expenses arising in cases unaer 
 this Act, and properly chargeable to the United States, shall 
 be certified, approved, and paid as like costs and expenses in 
 the courts of the United States are certified, approved, and 
 paid under the laws of the United States. 
 
 SEC. 9. That the Secretary of the Interior shall cause to be 
 erected in the park a suitable building to be used as a jail, 
 and also having in said building an office for the use of the 
 commissioner, the cost of such building not to exceed five 
 thousand dollars, to be paid out of any moneys in the Treas- 
 ury not otherwise appropriated, upon the certificate of the 
 Secretary as a voucher therefor. 
 
 SEC. 10. That this act shall not be construed to repeal ex- 
 isting laws conferring upon the Secretary of the Interior and 
 the Secretary of War certain powers with reference to the 
 protection, improvement, and control of the said Yellowstone 
 National Park. 
 
 Approved, May 7, 1894. 
 
 LEASES IN THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL 
 
 PARK. 
 
 AN ACT concerning leases in the Yellowstone National Park. 
 
 Be it enacted by the Senate and Souse of Representatives of the 
 
 United States of America in Congress assembled, That the Secre- 
 
LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS. 353 
 
 tary of the Interior is hereby authorized and empowered to 
 lease to any person, corporation, or company, for a period not 
 exceeding ten years, at such annual rental as the Secretary 
 of the Interior may determine, parcels of land in the Yellow- 
 stone National Park, of not more than ten acres in extent for 
 each tract, and not in excess of twenty acres in all to any one 
 person, corporation, or company, on which maybe erected ho- 
 tels and necessary out-buildings; provided, that such lease or 
 leases shall not include any of the geysers or other objects of 
 curiosity or interest in said park, or exclude the public from 
 free and convenient approach thereto, or include any ground 
 within one-eighth of a mile of any of the geysers or the Yel- 
 lowstone Falls, the Grand Canon, or the Yellowstone River, 
 Mammoth Hot Springs, or any object of curiosity in the 
 park ; and provided, further, that such leases shall not con- 
 vey, either expressly or by implication, any exclusive privilege 
 within the park except upon the premises held thereunder 
 and for the time, therein granted. Every lease hereafter 
 made for any property in said park shall require the lessee to 
 observe and obey each and every provision in any Act of 
 Congress, and every rule, order, or regulation made, or which 
 may hereafter be made and published by the Secretary of the 
 Interior concerning the use, care, management, or government 
 of the park, or any object or property therein, under penalty 
 of forfeiture of such lease, and every such lease shall be sub- 
 ject to the right of revocation and forfeiture, which shall 
 therein be reserved by the Secretary of the Interior; and pro- 
 vided, further, that persons or corporations now holding leases 
 of ground in the park may, upon the surrender thereof, be 
 granted new leases hereunder, and upon the terms and stipu- 
 lations contained in their present leases, with such modifica- 
 tions, restrictions, and reservations as the Secretary of the 
 Interior may prescribe. 
 
 This Act, however, is not to be construed as mandatory 
 
354 APPENDIX B. 
 
 upon the Secretary of the Interior, but the authority herein 
 given is to be exercised in his sound discretion. 
 
 That so much of that portion of the Act of March third, 
 eighteen hundred and eighty-three, relating to the Yellow- 
 stone Park, as conflicts with this Act, be, and the same is 
 hereby, repealed. 
 
 Approved, August 3, 1894. 
 
 RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR THE GOVERN- 
 MENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL 
 PARK. 
 
 1895. 
 
 [Promulgated by the Secretary of the interior.] 
 
 RULES AND REGULATIONS OF THE YELLOW- 
 STONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 1. It is forbidden to remove or injure the sediments or in- 
 crustations around the geysers, hot springs, or steam vents; 
 or to deface the same by written inscription or otherwise ; or 
 to throw any substance into the springs or geyser vents ; or to 
 injure or disturb, in any manner, or to carry off any of the 
 mineral deposits, specimens, natural curiosities, or wonders 
 within the park. 
 
 2. It is forbidden to ride or drive upon any of the geyser 
 or hot spring formations, or to turn loose stock to graze in 
 their vicinity. 
 
 3. It is forbidden to cut or injure any growing timber. 
 Camping parties will be allowed to use dead or fallen timber 
 for fuel. 
 
 4. Fires shall be lighted only when necessary, and com- 
 pletely extinguished when not longer required. The utmost 
 care should be exercised at all times to avoid setting fire to 
 the timber and grass, and any one failing to comply therewith 
 shall be peremptorily removed from the park. 
 
LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS. 355 
 
 5. Hunting or killing, wounding, or capturing of any bird 
 or wild animal, except dangerous animals, when necessary 
 to prevent them from destroying life or inflicting an in- 
 jury, is prohibited. The outfits, including guns, traps, 
 teams, horses, or 'means of transportation used by persons en- 
 gaged in hunting, killing, trapping, ensnaring, or captur- 
 ing such birds or wild animals, or in possession of game 
 killed in the park under other circumstances than prescribed 
 above, will be forfeited to the United States, except in cases 
 where it is shown by satisfactory evidence that the outfit is 
 not the property of the person or persons violating this regu- 
 lation, and the actual owner thereof was not a party to such 
 violation. Firearms will only be permitted in the park on the 
 written permission of the Superintendent thereof. On arrival 
 at the first station of the park guard, parties having firearms 
 will turn them over to the sergeant in charge of the station, 
 taking his receipt for them. They will be returned to the 
 owners on leaving the park. 
 
 6. Fishing with nets, seines, traps, or by use of drugs or 
 explosives, or in any other way than with hook and line, is 
 prohibited. Fishing for purposes of merchandise or profit is 
 forbidden by law. Fishing may be prohibited by order of 
 the Superintendent of the park in any of the waters of the 
 park, or limited therein to any specified season of the year, 
 until otherwise ordered by the Secretary of the Interior. 
 
 7. No person will be permitted to reside permanently or to 
 engage in any business in the park without permission, in 
 writing, from the Department of the Interior. The Superin- 
 tendent may grant authority to competent persons to act as 
 guides, and revoke the same in his discretion, and no pack 
 trains shall be allowed in the park unless in charge of a duly 
 registered guide. 
 
 8. The herding or grazing of loose stock or cattle of any 
 kind within the park, as well as the driving of such stock or 
 cattle over the roads of the park, is strictly forbidden, except 
 
356 APPENDIX B. 
 
 in such cases where authority therefor is granted by the Sec- 
 retary of the Interior. 
 
 9. No drinking saloon or bar-room will be permitted within 
 the limits of the park. 
 
 10. Private notices or advertisements shall not be posted or 
 displayed within the park, except such as may be necessary 
 for the convenience and guidance of the public, upon buildings 
 on leased ground. 
 
 11. Persons who render themselves obnoxious by disorderly 
 conduct or bad behavior, or who violate any of the foregoing 
 rules, will be summarily removed from the park, and will not 
 be allowed to return without permission in writing from the 
 Secretary of the Interior or the Superintendent of the Park. 
 
 Any person who violates any of the foregoing regulations 
 will be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and be subjected to 
 a fine, as provided by the Act of Congress, approved May 7, 
 1894, "to protect the birds and animals in Yellowstone Na- 
 tional Park, and to punish crimes in said park, and for other 
 purposes," of not more than one thousand dollars or imprison- 
 ment not exceeding two years, or both, and be adjudged to 
 pay all costs of the proceedings. 
 
 HOKE SMITH, 
 
 Secretary oj the Interior. 
 
APPROPRIATIONS. 357 
 
 APPENDIX C. 
 
 APPROPRIATIONS FOR THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Act June 20, 1878. To protect, preserve, and improve 
 
 the Park $10,000 00 
 
 " Mar. 3, 1879. To protect, preserve, and improve' 
 
 the Park 10,000 00 
 
 " June 16, 1880. To protect, preserve, and improve 
 
 the Park 15,000 00 
 
 " Mar. 3, 1881. To protect, preserve, and improve 
 
 the Park 15,000 00 
 
 " Mar. 3,1881. Deficiency for 1880 8976 
 
 " Aug. 5,1882. " " 1881 15500 
 
 " Aug. 7, 1882. For protection and improvement 
 
 of Park 15,000 00 
 
 " Aug. 7, 1882. To reimburse P. W. Norris for 
 
 salary and expenses, April 18, 
 
 1877, to June 30, 1878 3,180 41 
 
 " Mar. 3, 1883. For protection and improvement 
 
 of Park 40,000 00 
 
 " July 7, 1884. For protection and improvement 
 
 of Park 40,000 00 
 
 " Mar. 3, 1885. For protection and improvement 
 
 of Park 40,000 00 
 
 Joint Resolution of 
 July 1 and July 
 15, 1886 Compensation of Superintendent 
 
 and employes for month of 
 
 July, 1886 934 25 
 
 Act Aug. 4, 1886. For construction of roads and 
 
 bridges 20,000 00 
 
 " Mar. 3, 1887. For construction of roads and 
 
 bridges 20,000 00 
 
358 APPENDIX C. 
 
 Act Oct. 2, 1888. For construction of roads and 
 
 bridges $25,000 00 
 
 " Mar. 2, 1889. For construction of roads and 
 
 bridges 50,000 00 
 
 " Aug. 30, 1890. For construction of roads and 
 
 bridges 75,000 00 
 
 " Sept. 30, 1890. Reimbursement of Superintend- 
 ent Conger 169 37 
 
 " Mar. 3, 1891. For construction of roads and 
 
 bridges 75,000 00 
 
 " Aug. 5, 1892. For construction of roads and 
 
 bridges 45,000 00 
 
 " Mar. 3, 1893. For construction of roads and 
 
 bridges 30,000 00 
 
 " May 4, 1894. For erection of court-house and 
 
 jail 5,000 00 
 
 " Aug. 18, 1894. For construction of roads and 
 
 bridges 30,000 00 
 
 " Aug. 18, 1894. For salary of Commissioner pro- 
 vided by Act of May 4, 1894.. . 1,000 00 
 
 " Mar. 2, 1895. For construction of roads and 
 
 bridges 30,000 00 
 
 " Mar. 2, 1895. For salary of Commissioner 1,000 00 
 
 " Mar. 2, 1895. For. reimbursement of John W. 
 
 Meldrum.. 385 75 
 
 Total $596,914 54 
 
 Receipts from leases $8,358 94 
 
 Expenditures from same 4,053 45 
 
 Balance 4,305 4& 
 
 Outlay for 23 years $592,609 05 
 
 Average annual outlay less than 25,000 00 
 
LIST OF SUPERINTENDENTS. 
 
 APPENDIX D. 
 
 LIST OF SUPERINTENDENTS OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL 
 
 PARK. 
 
 Name. 
 Nathaniel P. Langford. 
 
 Philetus W. Norris. 
 
 Patrick H. Conger. . 
 
 Robert E. Carpenter... 
 
 Length of Service. Compensation. 
 
 Appointed May 10, 
 1872 ; removed April 
 18, 18'77 No compensation. 
 
 Appointed April 18, 
 
 1877 Do. 
 
 Commissioned July 5, 
 1878; removed Feb- 
 ruary 2, 1882 $1,500 per annum. 
 
 Commissioned Febru- 
 ary 2, 1882; resigned 
 July 28, 1884 $2,000 per annum. 
 
 Commissioned August 
 4, 1884; removed May 
 
 29, 1885 Do. 
 
 David W. Wear Commissioned May 29, 
 
 1885. Congress failed 
 to appropriate for of- 
 fice from August 1, 
 
 1886.' Do. 
 
 Acting Superintendent 
 of Park. August 10, 
 
 1886, detailed by Sec- 
 retary of War, in pur- 
 suance of Act March 
 3, 1883 (22 Statutes, 
 627). Relieved from 
 
 duty June 1, 1889. . .No compensation 
 other than army 
 pay. 
 
 Capt. Moses Harris. . 
 
360 APPENDIX D. 
 
 Name. Length of Service. Compensation. 
 Capt. F. A. Boutelle. . . . Acting Superintendent 
 of Park ; assigned 
 June 1, 1889, reliev- 
 ing Capt. Moses Har- 
 ris No compensation 
 
 other than army 
 pay. 
 
 Capt. Geo. S. Anderson. Acting Superintendent 
 of Park ; assigned 
 January 21, 1891, re- 
 lieving Capt. F. A. 
 Boutelle.. . Do. 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY, tiTC. 361 
 
 APPENDIX E. 
 
 BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE LITERATURE OF THE YELLOWSTONE 
 NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 The following bibliography is intended to contain the names 
 of such books and magazine articles in the English language 
 as treat in whole or in part of the Yellowstone National Park. 
 It does not include references in encyclopedias or school text- 
 books, nor, with few exceptions, articles from the daily or 
 weekly journals. Those who desire to consult the more gen- 
 eral literature relating to the geysers and hot springs of the 
 world are referred to the excellent work of Dr. A. C. Peale, 
 published in 1883, in the Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. 
 Hayden, pp. 427-449. 
 
 The present list is carefully indexed under the more promi- 
 nent words of the titles and under the names of the authors; 
 but the full title of each work is given only once. To pass 
 from any other reference to the corresponding full title, note 
 the number following the reference and look for the title 
 which is preceded by the same number. The abbreviation 
 " Y. N. P." is for " Yellowstone National Park." 
 
 1. Action of Geysers. Westmiiuter Review, vol. Ixvii, 
 p. 207. 
 
 Allen, C. J., 6. 
 
 2. American Big Game Hunting. The Book of the Booue 
 and Crockett Club, vol. i. Editors, Theodore Roosevelt 
 and George Bird Grinnell. New York. Forest and Stream 
 Publishing Company. 1893. Contains numerous references 
 
362 APPENDIX E. 
 
 to the Y. N. P. and an article entitled "The Yellowstone 
 Park as a Game Preserve," by Arnold Hague. 
 
 3. Among the Geysers of the Yellowstone. E. .Roberts. 
 In his Shoshone. New York. Harper Brothers. 1888. pp. 
 202-245. 
 
 4. Analyses of some Geyser Deposits. By Henry Leffmaun. 
 Chemical News. London, vol. xliii, p. 124. 
 
 5. Analyses of the Waters of the Y. N". P. By Frank A. 
 Gooch and James E. Whitfield, Bulletin No. 47, U. S. 
 Geological Survey, Washington : Government Printing Of- 
 fice. 1888. 
 
 Anderson, G. S., 8, 24, 61. 
 
 6. Annual Reports of Officers of the Corps of Engineers in 
 charge of the Construction of Roads and Bridges. Including, 
 to the present time, reports by Lieutenant (now Captain) D. 
 C. Kingman, Captain (now Major) C. B. Sears, Major Charles 
 J. Allen, Lieutenant W. E. Craighill, Major (now Lieutenant- 
 Colonel) W. A. Jones, and Lieutenant (now Captain) H. M. 
 Chittendeu. Washington: Government Printing Office. 
 
 7. Annual Reports of Secretaries of the Interior, from 1871 
 to the present time. Washington : Government Printing 
 Office. 
 
 8. Annual Reports of Superintendents of the Park. In- 
 cluding, to the present time, reports by N. P. Langford, P. 
 W. Norris, P. H. Conger, D. W. Wear, Captain (now Major, 
 retired) Moses Harris, Captain F. A. Boutelle, and Captain 
 George S. Anderson. Washington : Government Printing 
 Office. 
 
 9. Annual Report (Fifth : 1871) of the U. S. Geological 
 Survey of the Territories. By Dr. F. V. Hayden, with 
 sub-reports by A. C. Peale, Joseph Leidy and T. C. Porter. 
 Washington : Government Printing Office. 1872. 
 
 10. Annual Report (Sixth : 1872) of the U. S. Geological 
 Survey of the Territories. By Dr. F. V. Hayden, with sub- 
 reports by Dr. A. C. Peale, F. H. Bradley, C. H. Merriam, 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY, ETC. 363 
 
 Henry Gannett, J. M. Coulter and N. P. Langford. Wash- 
 ington : Government Printing office. 1873. 
 
 11. Annual Report (Twelfth: 1878) of the U. S. Geologi- 
 cal and Geographical Survey of the Territories. By Dr. F. 
 V. Hay den, with sub-reports by W. H. Holmes, Dr. A. C. 
 Peale and Henry Gannett. Washington : Government 
 Printing Office. 1883. This report contains Dr. Peale's 
 exhaustive treatise upon the thermal phenomena of the park; 
 his general treatise on the hot springs and geysers of the 
 world, and his elaborate bibliography pertaining to these 
 subjects. 
 
 12. Annual Reports of the United States Geological Sur- 
 vey. The serial numbers of these reports begin with June 
 30, 1880, the first report being for the year ending at that 
 time. Nearly all these reports contain valuable references to 
 the Park, most of them being from the pen of Prof. Arnold 
 Hague. One article of great importance, by Walter Harvey 
 Weed (Ninth Annual Report, 1888, pp. 613-676), on the 
 formation of hot springs deposits through the agency of 
 vegetable growth, deserves particular notice. Washington : 
 Government Printing Office. 
 
 13. Aquatic Invertebrate Fauna of the Y. N. P., Pre- 
 liminary Report upon. S. A. Forbes. Bulletin United States 
 Fish Commission for 1891, p. 215. Washington : Govern- 
 ment Printing Office. 1893. 
 
 Arthur, Chester A., 66. 
 
 14. Ascent of Mt. Hayden. N. P. Langford. Scnbner's 
 (Old) Monthly, vol. vi, p. 129. 
 
 15. Astoria. Washington Irving. Chapter xv contains 
 a reference to John Colter. 
 
 Attractions of the Y. N. P. , 96. 
 
 16. Attractions of the Y. N. P. Kansas City Review. 
 April 1880, p. 743. 
 
 17. Autumn in the Yellowstone Park. L. Rutgers. In 
 
3t>4 APPENDIX E. 
 
 his On and off the Saddle. New York: Putnam, 1894, 
 pp. 1-19. 
 
 Barlow, Captain J. W., 94. 
 
 18. Battle of the Big Hole. G. O. Shields. Chicago and 
 New York: Rand, McNally & Company. 1889. Con- 
 tains an account of the Nez Perce Campaign. 
 
 Beam, Wm., 21. 
 
 19. Bicycle Tour of the Y. N. P. First. W. O. Owen. 
 Outing, vol. xviii p. 191. 
 
 20. Black Hills, The, and American Wonderland. H. N. 
 Maguire. The Lakeside Library, vol. iv, p. 298. 
 
 21. Bonneville, Captain, The Adventures of. Washington 
 Irving. Chapter xxiii contains a reference to John Colter, 
 the Stinkingwater River, and to " Colter's Hell." 
 
 22. Botanical Observations in Western Wyoming. C. C. 
 Parry. American Naturalist, vol. viii, pp. 9, 102, 175,211. 
 
 Boutelle, Capt. F. A., 8. 
 Brackett, W. S. , 63. 
 Bradbury, J., 115. 
 Bradley, F. H., 10. 
 Brockett, G. P., 152 
 Brown, R., 125. 
 Bunce, O. B., 83. 
 Butler, J. D.,65. 
 
 23. Calumet of the Coteau. P. W. Norris. Philadelphia : 
 J. B. Lippincott & Co., 1883. 
 
 24. Camping in the Y. N. P. Captain Geo. S. Anderson. 
 Youth's Companion, October 17, 1895, p. 488. Gives exhaust- 
 ive directions for those desiring to camp through the Park. 
 
 Catlin, George, 62. 
 Chittenden, H. M., 6, 98. 
 
 25. Chronicles of the Yellowstone. E. S. Topping. St. 
 Paul: Pioneer Press Company. 1883. 
 
 Commissioner of Fish and Fisheries, Report of, 91. 
 Comstock, T. B., 45, 90, 118, 141. 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY, ETC. 365 
 
 Conger, P. H., 8. 
 
 26. Congressional Reports (only the more important) : 
 
 To accompany House Bill 764 (Act of Dedication), 
 42d Cong., 2d Session. 
 
 Report of a Special Committee of the House of Rep- 
 resentatives appointed by the Speaker on the 4th 
 day of March, 1885, to investigate, among other 
 things, the Y. N. P. House Report No. 1,076, 
 49th Cong., 1st Sess., pp. 245-270. 
 
 Report of the Committee on Public Lands on the 
 administration of the Y. N. P. in compliance with 
 House resolution of April 8, 1892. House Re- 
 port No. 1,956, 52d Cong., 1st Sess., pp. 295. 
 
 Adverse Repport on the admission of steam railways 
 within the Park. House Report No. 1,386, 53d 
 Cong., 2d Sess. 
 
 Adverse Report on the admission of electric railways 
 within the Park. House Report No. 1,387, 53d 
 Cong., 2d Sess. 
 
 Adverse Report on Segregation project and change 
 of boundaries. House Report No. 1,763, 53d 
 Cong., 3d Sess. 
 
 27. Contributions to the Geological Chemistry of the Y. 
 N. P. Henry Leffmann and Wm. Beam. American Journal 
 of Science. 3d series, vol. xxv, p. 104. 
 
 28. Cooke City versus the National Park. New York : 
 Forest and Stream, December 8, 1892, p. 16. 
 
 Cope, E. D., 145. 
 
 Corps of Engineers, Officers of, Annual Reports of, 6. 
 
 Coues, Elliott, 57. 
 
 Coulter, J. M., 10. 
 
 Craighill, W. E., 6. 
 
 Dana, E. 8., 89. ^ 
 
 De Lacy, W., 72, 114. 
 
 De Vallibus, 132. 
 
366 APPENDIX E. 
 
 Don ne, G. C., 136. 
 Donaldson, T., 87. 
 Driscoll, C. F., 142. 
 Dudley, W. H., 159. 
 Dunraven, Earl of, 53. 
 
 29. Earth, The, and its Inhabitants. Elisee Eeclus. Vol. 
 iii. New York : D. Applet >n & Co. 1893. Contains 
 numerous references to the Y. N. P. 
 
 Eccles, James, 70, 99. 
 Eldridge, G. H., 44. 
 
 30. Elk Hunt, An, at Two-Ocean Pass. Theodore Roose- 
 velt. The Century, vol. xliv, p. 713. 
 
 Ellsworth, Spencer, 86. 
 
 31. Enchanted Land, The, or an October Ramble among 
 the Geysers, etc., of the Y. N. P. Illustrated. 8vo. pp. 48. 
 Paper. R. E. Strahorn. Omaha. 1881. 
 
 Evermanu, B. W., 91. 
 Everts, T. C., 110. 
 
 32. Expedition through the Big Horn Mountains, Y. N. 
 P., etc., in 1881. Report by Lieutentant-General P. H. Sheri- 
 dan, with sub-reports by Lieutenant-Colonel J. F. Gregory, 
 A. D. C., Surgeon W. H. Forwood, U. S. A., and Captain 
 S. C. Kellogg, U. S. A. Washington : Government Print- 
 ing Office. 1882. 
 
 33. Expedition to the Yellowstone. Ancdectic Magazine, 
 vol. xv, pp. 293, 347. 
 
 34. Exploration of Parts of Wyoming, Idaho, and Mon- 
 tana, in 1882. Report by Lieutenant-General P. H. Sheri- 
 dan, with sub-reports by Lieutenant-Colonel J. F. Gregory, 
 A. D. C., and Surgeon W. H. Forwood, U. S. A. Wash- 
 ington : Government Printing Office. 1882. 
 
 35. Exploration of the Yellowstone and the Country 
 drained by that River. W. F. Ray n olds, Brevet Brigadier- 
 General U. S. A. Sen. Ex. Doc. No. 77, 40th Cong., 1st 
 Sess. On page 10 is a reference to the geyser regions. 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY, ETC. 367 
 
 36. Falls of the Yellowstone. Howard O'Neil. Southern 
 Magazine, vol. ix., p. 219. 
 
 37. Falls of the Yellowstone. Moses Thatcher. The Con- 
 tributor. Salt Lake City. Vol. v, p. 140. 
 
 Ferris, G. T., 84. 
 
 38. Fifth Avenue to Alaska. Edward Pierrepont. New 
 York : G. P. Putnam Sons, 1884, p. 237. Printed for 
 private circulation only. 
 
 Folsom,D. E., 119. 
 
 Forbes, S. A., 13. 
 
 Forest Reservation, The Y. N. P. as a, 157. 
 
 Forwood, W. H., 32, 34. 
 
 39. Fossil Forests of the Volcanic Tertiary Formations of 
 the Y. N. P. W. H. Holmes. Bulletin United States Geo- 
 logical Survey, vol. v, p. 125. Washington: Government 
 Printing Office. 1879. 
 
 40. Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. Walter Harvey 
 Weed. School of Mines Quarterly, vol. xiii, no. 3. 
 
 41. Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. Prof. Samuel E. 
 Tillman. United States Military Academy. Popular Science 
 Monthly, vol. xliii, p. 301, July, 1893. 
 
 42. Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. Prof. Frank H. 
 Knowlton, P. H. D. The Epoch, vol. i, no. 1, p. 18. April, 
 1895. 
 
 Francis, E., 49. 
 Frankland, E. ? 143. 
 Game Exploration, Y. N. P., 158. 
 Game Preserve, The Y. N. P. as a, 2. 
 Gannett, H., 10, 11, 153. 
 Geike, A., 48. 
 
 Geological Chemistry of the Y. N. P. Contributions to 
 the, 27. 
 
 43. Geological History of the Y. N. P. Arnold Hague. 
 Transactions American Institute of Mining Engineers, vol. xvi, 
 1888. Also in Smithsonian Report for 1892, p. 133. 
 
368 APPENDIX E. 
 
 44. Geological Reconnaissance in North-western Wyoming. 
 George Romans Eldridge. Bulletin 119, United States Geo- 
 olgical Survey. Washington: Government Printing Office. 
 1894. 
 
 45. Geology of Western Wyoming. Theo. B. Comsiock. 
 American Journal of Science. 3d series, vol. vi, p. 426. 
 
 Geyser Deposits, Analyses of, 4. 
 Geyserland, Pilgrimage to, 86. 
 Geysers, Action of, 1. 
 
 46. Geysers and how they are explained. Joseph Le Conte. 
 Popular Science Monthly, vol. xii, p. 407. 
 
 47. Geysers, Comparisons of. A. C. Peale. Science, vol. 
 ii, p. 101. 
 
 48. Geysers of the Yellowstone. Archibald Geike. Mac- 
 millan, vol. xliv, p. 421. Same article, Appleton's Journal, 
 vol. xxvi, p. 538 ; and Eclectic Magazine, vol. xcviii, p. 124. 
 
 49. Geysers of the Yellowstone. E. Francis. Nineteenth 
 Century, vol. xi, p. 369. Same article in Living Age, vol. 
 cliii, p. 31, and Eclectic Magazine, vol. xcviii, p. 598. 
 
 Geysers of the Yellowstone, Among the, 3. 
 Geyser Regions, The World's, 134. 
 Geysers, Soaping, 102, 103, 104. 
 
 50. Gigantic " Pleasuring Ground," A. Nature, vol. vi, 
 pp. 397, 437. 
 
 51. Glacial Phenomena in the Y. N. P. W. H. Holmes. 
 American Naturalist, vol. xv, p. 203. 
 
 52. Gold Hunt on the Yellowstone, A. Edward B. Neal- 
 ley. Lippincott's, vol. ix, p. 204. 
 
 Gooch, F. A., 5. 
 
 53. Great Divide, The. Earl of Dunraven. London : 
 Chatto and Windus. 1876. 
 
 54. Great West, The. A Journal of Rambles over Moun- 
 tain and Plain. P. W. Norris. A long series of articles un- 
 der the above title appeared in the Norris Suburban in 1876, 
 '7, '8. They deal largely with the Y. N. P., and contain 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY, ETC. 369 
 
 much of historic value. Norris subsequently rearranged and 
 extended these articles with a view to publication in book 
 form ; but death interrupted his purpose. The manuscript is 
 now in the possession of William Hallett Phillips, of Wash- 
 ington, D. C. 
 
 Gregory, J. F., 32, 34, 66. 
 
 Grinnell, G. B., 2, 61, 89. 
 
 55. Grotto Geyser, The. F. V. Hayden. Washington : 
 Government Printing Office. 1876. 
 
 56. Guide Books of the Y. N. P. The guide books of the 
 Park are numerous ; but as they are all similar in character, 
 and generally supplanted by the latest issue, it seems unnec- 
 essary to give a full list of them. Among those who have 
 prepared guides or manuals of the Park, of practical value to 
 the tourist, may be mentioned H. J. Norton, P. W. Norris, 
 Henry J. Winser, G. L. Henderson, W. W. & S. K. Wiley, 
 W. C. Riley, F. J. Haynes, A. B. Guptill, and the Northern 
 Pacific and Union Pacific Railway Companies. The leading 
 authorities at the present time are Haynes' (St. Paul) Guide 
 Book and O. D. Wheeler's (N. P. R. R.) " Wonderland" Se- 
 ries. See " Wonderland Series." 
 
 Guunisou, J. W., 77. 
 Guptill, A. B., 56,148. 
 
 Hague, Arnold, 2, 12, 43, 67, 102, 154, 156, 157. 
 Harris, Moses, 8. 
 Harrison, Carter, 107. 
 
 Hayden, F. V., 9, 10, 11, 55, 59, 60, 117, 127, 128, 140, 
 160. 
 
 Hayden, Mt., Ascent of, 14. 
 Haynes, F. J., 56, 66, 162. 
 Heap, D. P., 94 
 Hedges, C., 137. 
 Henderson, G. L. , 56, 161. 
 Heizman, C. L., 90, 108. 
 
 57. History of the Expeditions under the Command of 
 
370 APPENDIX E. 
 
 Lewis and Clark, to the Sources of the Missouri River, thence 
 across the Rocky Mountains and down the Columbia River to 
 the Pacific Ocean. Performed during Jhe Years 1804-5-6, 
 by Order of the Government of the United States. Elliott 
 Coues. 4 vols. New York: Francis P. Harper. 1893. 
 Pages 283, 1153, 1154, 1181, and 1182 contain references to 
 the Y. N. P. 
 Holmes, \V. H., 11, 39, 51, 82. 
 
 58. Horseback Rides through the Y. N. P. H. J. Norton. 
 Virginia City, Mont. 1874. The first real guide book of the 
 Park. 
 
 59. Hot Springs and Geysers of the Yellowstone and Fire- 
 hole Rivers. F. V. Haydeu. American Journal of Science, 
 vol. ciii, pp. 105, 161. 
 
 60. Hot Springs of the Y. N. P. F. V. Hayden. In 
 The Great West, Philadelphia: Franklin Publishing Co 
 1880. 
 
 Hough, E., 158. 
 Howard, O. O., 79, 81. 
 Hoyt, J. W., 93. 
 
 61. Hunting in Many Lands. Book of the Boone and 
 Crockett Club. Vol. ii. Editors, Theodore Roosevelt and 
 George Bird Grinnell. New York: Forest and Stream Pub- 
 lishing Company. 1895. Contains an article by Captain G. 
 S. Anderson, 6th U. S. Cavalry, on "Protection in the Y. 
 N. P., and one by the Editors on "The Yellowstone Park Pro- 
 
 , tective Act." 
 
 Iddings, J. P., 156. 
 
 62. Illustrations of the Manners, Customs, aud Condition 
 of the North American Indians. George Catlin. 2 vols. 
 London: Henry G. Bohn. 1857. Pages 261-2 contain 
 reference to Catlin's Park project. Published also in New 
 York. 1841. 
 
 63. Indian Remains on the Upper Yellowstone. William 
 S. Brackett. Smithsonian Institute Report for 1892, p. 577. 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY, ETC. 371 
 
 64. Inspection Made in the Summer of 1877 by Generals 
 P. H. Sheridan and W. T. Sherman. Contains letters from 
 General Sherman to the Secretary of War, and reports by Gen- 
 eral Sheridan, Colonel O. M. Poe, and other officers. Wash- 
 ington : Government Printing Office. 1878. 
 
 Irving, Washington, 15, 21. 
 
 65. John Colter. Professor J. D. Butler. Magazine Amer- 
 ican History, vol. xii, no. 1, p. 83. 
 
 Jones, W. A., 6, 90. 
 Jones, W. P., 153. 
 Jordan, D. S., 92, 150. 
 Joseph, Nez Perce, 81. 
 
 66. Journey through the Yellowstone National Park and 
 North-western Wyoming. 1883. Photographs of Party and 
 Scenery along the Route Traveled, and Copies of the Asso- 
 ciated Press Dispatches sent whilst En Route. Washington : 
 Government Printing Office. 
 
 This book, of which only twelve copies were ever made, is 
 the record of the journey of President Arthur through the 
 Park as the guest of Lieutenant-General Sheridan in 1883. 
 The dispatches were mostly written by Lieteuant-Colonel M. 
 V. Sheridan, Military Secretary, and by Lieutenant-Colonel 
 James F. Gregory, Aide-de-Camp ; but at least one dispatch 
 was written by each of the other members of the party, ex- 
 cept the President. All the dispatches were read to and ap- 
 proved by the President before being sent. No newspaper 
 correspondent accompanied the expedition. The photographs, 
 which form an important feature of the book, were taken by 
 F. J. Haynes, who accompanied the party. 
 
 Kellogg, S. C., 32. 
 
 Kingman, D. C., 6. 
 
 Knowlton, F. H., 42. 
 
 Koch, Peter, 144. 
 
 Langford, N. P., 8, 10, 14, 119, 120, 129, 137. 
 
372 APPENDIX E. 
 
 Le Conte, Joseph, 46. 
 
 Leffmann, Henry, 4, 27. 
 
 Leidy, Joseph, 9. 
 
 Lewis and Clark, 57. 
 
 Liederkranz Expedition to the Y. N. P., 159. 
 
 Liiiton, Edwin, 85. 
 
 Ludlow, William, 89. 
 
 Maguire, H. N., 20. 
 
 67. Map of the North-west, An Early. Arnold Hague. 
 Science, vol. x, p. 217. 
 
 68. Map of the Y. N. P. Science, vol. xi, p. 255. 
 
 69. Marvels of the Yellowstone. Leisure Hour, vol. xxi, 
 p. 134. 
 
 Merriam, C. H., 10. 
 
 70. Microscopical Character of Vitreous Rocks of Montana. 
 Frank Rutley and James Eccles. Quarterly Journal Geological 
 Society, London, vol. xxxvii, p. 391. 
 
 71. Military Road from Fort Walla Walla to Fort Benton, 
 Report on Construction of. Captain John Mullan, U. S. A. 
 Washington : Government Printing Office. 1863. Pages 
 19 and 53 refer to geysers and hot springs near the Upper 
 Yellowstone. 
 
 72. Mineral Resources of the States and Territories. Ros- 
 siter W. Raymond. Washington: Government Printing 
 Office. 1869. Page 142 quotes W. W. De Lacy in regard 
 to hot springs on the Firehole and Snake Rivers. 
 
 73. Mineral Springs of the United States. A. C. Peale. 
 Bulletin No. 32, United States Geological Survey. Wash- 
 ington : Government Printing Office. 
 
 74. Mineral Springs of the United States. A. C. Peale. 
 Popular Science Monthly, vol. xxx, p. 711. 
 
 75. Mineral Springs of the United States and Canada. G. 
 E. Walton. Popular Science Monthly, vol. iii, p. 515. 
 
 76. Mineral Waters of the Y. N. P. A. C. Peale. 
 Science, vol. xvii, p. 36. 
 
^ BIBLIOGRAPHY, ETC. 373 
 
 Mitchell, S. W.,112. 
 
 Montana Historical Society, Transactions of, 114. 
 
 77. Mormons or Latter Day Saints, A History of. Captain 
 J. W. Gnnnison, U. S. A. Philadelphia : Lippincott, 
 Grarabo & Co. 1852. Also Philadelphia: J. B. Lippiu- 
 cott & Co. 1856. Page 151 contains a reference to Bridger's 
 knowledge of the geyser regions. 
 
 Mullan, John, 71. 
 
 National Park, Our Great, 83. 
 
 Nealley, E. B., 52. 
 
 78. New North-west, The. The Century, vol. xxiv, p. 504. 
 79. Nez Perce Campaign, The, Reports of General Howard 
 
 and other officers upon. Vol. i, Reports of Secretary of 
 War for 1877. Washington : Government Printing Office. 
 1877. 
 Nez Perce Campaign, The, 18, 79, 80, 81. 
 
 80. Nez Perce Indians, Report of Civil and Military Com- 
 mission to inquire into Grievances of. Vol. i, Report of Sec- 
 retary of the Interior for 1877, p. 607. Nez Perce War- de- 
 scribed on pp. 405-409, same volume. Washington : Gov- 
 ernment Printing Office. 1877. 
 
 81. Nez Perce Joseph. History of the Nez Perce Cam- 
 paign of 1877. General O. O. Howard. Boston. Lee and 
 Shepard. 1881. 
 
 Norris, P. W., 8, 23, 54, 56. 
 Northern Pacific Railway Co., 56, 126. 
 Norton, H. J., 56, 58. 
 
 82. Notes on an Extensive Deposit of Obsidian in the Y. 
 N. P. W. H. Holmes. American Naturalist, vol. xiii, p. 247. 
 
 Obsidian in the Y. N. P., 82. 
 O'Neil, H., 36. 
 
 83. Our Great National Park. O. B. Bunce. In Picturesque 
 America; or, the Land we Live in, vol. i, p. 292. New York : 
 D. Appleton & Co. 1872. 
 
 84. Our Native Land, or Glances at American Scenery 
 
374 APPENDIX E. 
 
 aud Places. George T. Ferris. New York : D. Appleton 
 &Co., 1886, pp. 148-178. 
 
 Overhead Sounds in the Vicinity of the Yellowstone Lake. 
 S. A. Forbes. Page 215, Preliminary Report on Aquatic In- 
 vertebrate Fauna, in the Y. N. P., 13. 
 
 85. Overhead Sounds in the Vicinity of the Yellowstone 
 Lake. Edwin Linton. Science, vol. xxii, No. 561, p. 244. 
 
 Owen, \V. O., 19. 
 
 Parry, C. C., 22, 90. 
 
 Peale, A. C., 9, 10, 11, 47, 73, 74, 76, 109, 134. 
 
 Peck, J. K., 155. 
 
 Pierrepont, Edward, 38. 
 
 86. Pilgrimage to Geyserland. Spencer Ellsworth. Lacon, 
 111. 1883. 
 
 Poe, O. M., 64. 
 
 Porter, R. P., 153. 
 
 Porter, T. C., 9. 
 
 Protection in the Y. N. P., 61. 
 
 Protective Act, Y. N. P., 61. 
 
 87. Public Domain, The. Its History with Statistics. 
 Thomas Doualdsen. Washington: Government Printing 
 Office, 1884, p. 1294. 
 
 88. Rambles in Wonderland. Edwin J. Stanley. New 
 York : D. Appleton & Co. 1873. 
 
 Raymond, R. W., 72, 104, 105, 106, 130. 
 Raynolds, W. F., 35. 
 Reel us, lis6e, 29. 
 
 89. Reconnaissance from Carroll, Montana, to the Y. N. P. 
 Captain (now Lieutenant-Colonel) Wm. Ludlow, Corps of En- 
 gineers, U. S. A., with sub-reports by George Bird Grinnell 
 and Edward S. Dana. Appendix N N, Chief of Engineers' 
 Report for 1876. Washington : Government Printing Office. 
 1876. Also published separately in quarto, 155 pages. 1876. 
 
 90. Reconnaissance of North-western Wyoming, including 
 the Y. N. P., made in the summer of 1873. Captain W. 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY, ETC. 375 
 
 A. Jones, of the Corps of Engineers, with sub-reports by 
 Prof. Theo. B. Comstock, Dr. C. L. Heizrnan, U. S. A., and 
 Dr. C. C. Parry. Washington: Government Printing 
 Office. 1875. 
 
 91. Reconnaissance of the Streams and Lakes of Western 
 Montana and North-western Wyoming. Barton W. Ever- 
 mann. In Report of the United States Commissioner of Fish 
 and Fisheries. Washington : Government Printing Office, 
 1892, pp. 1-58. 
 
 92. Reconnaissance of the Streams and Lakes of the Yel- 
 lowstone National Park, Wyoming, in the interests of the 
 United States Fish Commission. David Starr Jordan. 
 Bulletin United States Fish Commission, vol. ix, pp. 41-63. 
 Washington : Government Printing Office. 1890. 
 
 93. Reconnaissance for a Wagon Road to the National 
 Park. Gov. John W. Hoyt, of Wyoming. In Annual Re- 
 port of Secretary of the Interior, 1881. Vol. ii, p. 1074. 
 Washington : Government Printing Office. 1881. 
 
 94. Reconnaissance of the Yellowstone River in 1871. 
 Captains Barlow and Heap, of the United States Corps of 
 Engineers. Sen. Ex. Doc. No. 66, 42d Cong., 2d Sess. 
 
 95. Report upon United States Geographical Surveys 
 West of the One Hundredth Meridian. Captain George M. 
 Wheeler, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A. Washington : Gov- 
 ernment Printing Office. 1889. Vol. i contains a memoir 
 upon the Voyages, Explorations, and Surveys pertaining to 
 that portion of the United States west of the Mississippi River 
 from the year 1500 to 1880, including an epitome of a Memoir 
 by Lieutenant G. K. Warren, covering the period from 1800 
 to 1857. 
 
 96. Resources of Montana Territory and Attractions of the 
 Y. N. P. R. E. Strahorn. Helena, Montana : Montana 
 Legislative Assembly. 1879. 
 
 Richardson, James, 131. 
 Rilev, W. C., 56. 
 
376 APPENDIX E. 
 
 97. River of the West, The. Frances Fuller Victor. 
 Hartford, Conn.: Columbian Book Company. 1871. Pages 
 75 and 76 contain a description of some of the hot springs 
 districts of the Park as seen in 1829. 
 
 99. Roads in the Y. N. P. Lieutenant H. M. Chitteuden, 
 U. S. A. Good Roads, vol. v, no. 1, p. 1. 
 
 Roberts, E., 3, 146. 
 
 99. Rocky Mountain Region of Wyoming and Idaho. 
 James Eccles. Alpine Journal, London. Vol. ix, p. 241. 
 
 Rollins, A. W., 111. 
 Roosevelt, Theodore, 2, 30, 61. 
 Rutgers, L., 17. 
 Rutley, F., 70. 
 Saltus, J. S., 123. 
 Sanitarium, A Winter, 124. 
 Sargent, C. S., 149. 
 
 100. Scorodite from the Y. N. P. J. Edward Whitfield. 
 Bulletin U. S. G. S., No. 55. Washington : Government 
 Printing Office. 1889. 
 
 Sears, C. B., 6. 
 
 Secretaries of the Interior, Annual Reports of, 7, 80, 93. 
 
 Sessions, F. C., 147. 
 
 Sheridan, M. V., 66. 
 
 Sheridan, P. H., 32, 34, 64, 66. 
 
 Sherman, W. T., 64. 
 
 Shields, G. O., 18. 
 
 101. Siliceous Pebbles from the Geyser of the Yellowstone 
 Canon. A. P. Townsend. American Chemist, vol. iii, p. 
 288. 
 
 Siliceous Sinter, Formation of, 12. 
 
 102. Soaping Geysers. Arnold Hague. Science, vol. 
 xiii, p. 382. Also in Smithsonian Report for 1892, p. 153. 
 
 103. Soaping Geysers. Popular Science Monthly, vol. 
 xxxvii, p. 139. 
 
 104. Soaping Geysers. R. W. Raymond. Transactions 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY, ETC. 377 
 
 of the American Institute of Mining Engineers, Buffalo 
 Meeting, October, 1888. 
 Stanley, E. J., 88. 
 
 105. Statistics of Mines and Mining. Rossiter W. Ray- 
 mond. Washington : Government Printing Office. 1870. 
 Page 312 contains references to the geysers of the Yellow- 
 stone. 
 
 106. Statistics of Mines and Mining. Rossiter W. Ray- 
 mond. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1872. 
 Pages 213-216 contain a reference to the geysers from the 
 pen of General Washburn. 
 
 Strahorn, R. E., 31, 96. 
 Strong, W. E., 116. 
 
 107. Summer's Outing, A, or, The Old Man's Story. 
 Carter Harrison. Chicago : Dibble Publishing Company. 
 1891. 
 
 Superintendents of the Y. N. P., Annual Reports of, 8. 
 Tetons, The Three, 111. 
 Thatcher, M., 37. 
 
 108. Therapeutical Value of the Springs in the Y. N. P. 
 Dr. C. L. Heizmann, U. S. A. Philadelphia. Medical 
 Times, vol. vi, p. 409. 
 
 109. Thermal Springs of the Y. N. P., Report on. A. C. 
 Peale. Popular Science Monthly, vol. xxiii, p. 515. 
 
 110. Thirty-seven Days of Peril. Truman C. Evert?. 
 Scribner's Monthly, vol. iii, p. 1. 
 
 111. Three Tetous, The. Allice Wellington Rollins 
 Harper's, vol. Ixxiv, p. 869. 
 
 112. Through the Yellowstone Park to Fort Ouster. Dr. 
 S. Weir Mitchell. Lippincotfs, vol. xxvi, p. 29. 
 
 113. Through the Yellowstone Park on Horseback. G. 
 W. Wingate. New York : Orange Judd. Co. 1886. 
 
 Tillman, S. E., 41. 
 Topping, E. S., 25. 
 Townsend, A. P., 101. 
 
378 APPENDIX E. 
 
 114. Transactions Montana Historical Society, vol. i. 
 Helena, Montana: Rocky Mountain Publishing Company. 
 1876. Contains numerous references to the Upper Yellow- 
 stone, the most important of which is an article entitled 
 " Trip up the South Snake River," by Walter W. De Lacy. 
 
 115. Travels in the Interior of America in the years 1808- 
 10-11. John Bradbury. Liverpool: 1817. 
 
 Travertine, Formation of, 12. 
 
 Trip up the South Snake River in 1863. Walter W. 
 De Lacy, 114. 
 
 116. Trip to the Y. N. P., iu July, August and September, 
 1875. Gen. W. E. Strong. Washington. 1876. 
 
 Trumbull, Walter, 121, 137. 
 
 117. Two-Ocean Pass, The So-called. Dr. F. V. Hayden. 
 Vol. v, Bulletins United States Geological Survey of the 
 Territories, p. 223. 
 
 Two-Ocean Pass, 30, 91, 117. 
 
 118. Unexplained Phenomena of the Geyser Basins of the 
 Y. N. P. Theodore B. Comstock. Popular Science Monthly, 
 vol. xii, p. 372. 
 
 Union Pacific Railroad Company, 56. 
 United States Geological Survey, Annual Reports of, 9 
 to 12. 
 
 119. Valley of the Upper Yellowstone. David E. Folsom. 
 Western Monthly, vol. iv, p. 60, July, 1870. Reprinted by 
 Mr. N. P. Langford, with an interesting preface by himself. 
 St. Paul, Minn. 1894. 
 
 Vegetation of Hot Waters, 12. 
 Victor, F. F., 97. 
 
 120. Vigilante Days and Ways. N. P. Langford. St. 
 Paul: D. D. Merrill & Co. 1893. Contains numerous 
 references to the Park. 
 
 Walton, G. E., 75. 
 Warren, G. K., 95. 
 Washburn, H. D., 106, 137. 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY, ETC. 379 
 
 121. Washburn Yellowstone Expedition, The. Walter 
 Trumbull. Overland Monthly, vol. vi, pp. 431, 489. 
 
 122. Wasp, The. Vol. i, No. 17, August 13, 1842. Con- 
 tains the article quoted on pp. 44-49, stated to have been an 
 extract from an unpublished work entitled "Life in the 
 Rocky Mountains." Author unknown. The Wasp was a 
 Mormon paper, published at Nauvoo, 111. 
 
 Wear, D. W., 8. 
 
 Weed, W. H., 12, 40, 156. 
 
 123. Week in the Yellowstone, A. J. San ford Saltus. 
 New York : Knickerbocker Press. 1895. Printed for pri- 
 vate circulation. 
 
 Wheeler, G. M., 95. 
 Wheeler, O. D., 56, 126. 
 Whitfield, J. E., 5, 100. 
 Wiley, W. W. andS. K., 56. 
 Wilson, 8. A., 135. 
 Wingate, G. W., 113. 
 Winser, H. J., 56. 
 
 124. Winter Sanitarium for the American Continent. Pop- 
 ular Science Monthly, vol. xxvii, p. 290. 
 
 125. Wonderland of America. Robert Brown. In the 
 Countries of the World, vol. iv. London, Paris, and New 
 York. 
 
 Wonderland, American, The Black Hills and, 20. 
 Wonderland, Rambles in, 88. 
 
 126. Wonderland Series. O. D. Wheeler. Annual Pub- 
 lication of Northern Pacific Railroad Company, describing 
 the country along the line of that railroad. These books ;ill 
 contain valuable articles on the Park. They include " 6,000 
 Miles through Wonderland," 1893, " Indianland and Won 
 derland," 1894, and " Sketches of Wonderland," 1895. 
 
 127. Wonders of the Rocky Mountains. The Y. N. P. 
 How to reach it. F. V. Haydeu. In Williams' Illustrated 
 
380 APPENDIX E. 
 
 Guide to the Pacific Railroad, California, etc. New York. 
 1876. 
 
 128. Wonders of the West. More about the Yellowstone. 
 F. V. Hayden. Scribner's Monthly, vol. iii, No. 4, p. 388. 
 
 129. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. N. P. Langford. 
 Scribner's Monthly, vol. ii, pp. 1, 113. 
 
 130. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. Rossiter W. Ray- 
 mond. In his Camp and Cabin. New York : Fords, Howard 
 & Hulburt. 1880. 
 
 131. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. James Richard- 
 son. New York: Scribner, Armstrong & Co. 1872. 
 
 132. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. De Vallibus. 
 Contributor, Salt Lake City, vol. v, pp. 5, 47, 86. 
 
 133. Wonders of the Yellowstone Region. Chambers' Jour- 
 nal, vol. li, p. 315. 
 
 134. World's Geyser Regions, The. A. C. Peale. Popu- 
 lar Science Monthly, vol. xxvii, p. 494. 
 
 Wright, G. M., 156. 
 Yellowstone, Chronicles of the, 25. 
 Yellowstone Expedition, 121. 
 
 135. Yellowstone Expedition of 1863. S. A. Wilson. 
 Magazine Western History, vol. xiii, pp. 448, 668. 
 
 136. Yellowstone Expedition of 1870, Report upon. Lieu- 
 tenant Gustavus C. Doane. Sen. Ex. Doc. No. 51, 41st 
 Cong., 3d Sess. 
 
 137. Yellowstone Expedition of 1870. A Series of Arti- 
 cles in Montana Papers, describing the Expedition. These 
 consisted of articles by Mr. Langford in the Selena Herald; 
 "Notes" by General Washburn in the same paper; a series 
 of articles, including " Sulphur Mountain and Mud Volcano," 
 "Hell-broth Springs," "Yellowstone Lake," " Mt. Everts," 
 and others, by Mr. Hedges, published in the Herald; and a 
 similar series in the Helena Gazette by Walter Trumbull. 
 These articles appeared between September 26, 1870, imme- 
 diately after the return of the Expedition, and November 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY, ETC. 381 
 
 12th, the date of the banquet given to Mr. Everts after his 
 miraculous escape from his terrible adventure. 
 
 Yellowstone, Expedition to the, 33. 
 
 Yellowstone, Exploration of the, 35. 
 
 Yellowstone, Falls of the, 36, 37. 
 
 Yellowstone, Fossil Forests of the, 39, 40, 41, 42. 
 
 Yellowstone, Geysers and Hot Springs of the, 3, 31, 48, 
 49, 59, 60. 
 
 Yellowstone, Gold Hunt on the, 52. 
 
 Yellowstone, Indian Remains on the, 63. 
 
 Yellowstone Lake, Overhead Sounds in the Vicinity of, 
 13, 85. 
 
 Yellowstone, Marvels of the, 69. 
 
 138. Yellowstone National Park. Scribner's Monthly, voL 
 iv, p. 120. 
 
 139. Yellowstone National Park. Manhattan Illustrated 
 Monthly, vol. iv, No. 2, p. 129, August, 1884. 
 
 140. Yellowstone National Park. F. V. Hayden. Amer- 
 ican Journal of Science, vol. ciii, p. 294. 
 
 141. Yellowstone National Park. Theo. B. Comstock. 
 American Naturalist, vol. viii, pp. 65, 155. 
 
 142. Yellowstone National Park. Charles F. Driscoll. 
 American Architect, vol. xiii, p. 130. 
 
 143. Yellowstone National Park. E. Fraukland. Popu- 
 lar Science Monthly, vol. xxvii, p. 289. 
 
 144. Yellowstone National Park. Peter Koch. Magazine 
 American History, vol. xi, p. 497. 
 
 145. Yellowstone National Park. E. D. Cope. American 
 Naturalist, vol. xix, p. 1017. 
 
 146. Yellowstone National Park. E. Roberts. Art Jour- 
 nal, vol. xl, pp. 193, 325. 
 
 147. Yellowstone National Park. F. C. Sessions. Maga- 
 zine Western History, vol. vi, p. 433. 
 
 148. Yellowstone National Park. A. B. Guptill. Outing,. 
 vol. xvi, p. 256. 
 
382 APPENDIX E. 
 
 149. Yellowstone National Park. C. G. Sargent. Garden 
 and Forest, vol. vii, p. 131. 
 
 150. Yellowstone National Park. D. S. Jordan. Around 
 the World, vol. i, p. 148. 
 
 151. Yellowstone National Park. (Anon.) Nature, vol. 
 v, p. 403 ; vi, pp. 397, 437. 
 
 152. Yellowstone National Park. G. P. Brockett. In 
 Our Western Empire, chap. xxii. Philadelphia, 1881. 
 
 153. Yellowstone National Park. Robert P. Porter, Henry 
 Gannett, and W. P. Jones. In The West from the Census of 
 1880. Chicago : Rand, McNally & Co. 1882. 
 
 154. Yellowstone National Park. Arnold Hague. Ex- 
 tract from the proceedings of the Fifth Session of the Inter- 
 national Congress of Geologists. Washington, 1891. 
 
 155. Yellowstone National Park. J. K. Peck. In his 
 Seven Wonders of the World. New York : Hunt and Eaton, 
 p. 71. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Analyses of Waters of, 5. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Aquatic Invertebrate Fauna 
 of, 13. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Attractions of, 16, 96. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Autumn in, 17. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Camping in, 24. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Cooke City versus, 28. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Expeditions to or through, 
 32, 34. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, First Bicycle Tour of, 19. 
 
 156. Yellowstone National Park Folio. (In preparation.) 
 A publication by the United States Geological Survey, con- 
 sisting of four geological and four topographical maps; a de- 
 scriptive text by Prof. Arnold Hague, of the United States 
 Geological Survey ; and a geological text by Prof. Hague as 
 Geologist in Charge, assisted by Messrs. J. P. Iddings, W. 
 H. Weed, and G. M. Wright. It is understood that this Folio 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY, ETC. 383 
 
 is presently to be followed by an exhaustive Monograph upon 
 the Park. 
 
 157. Yellowstone Natioual Park as a Forest Reservation. 
 Arnold Hague. Nation, vol. xlvi, p. 9. 
 
 158. Yellowstone National Park Game Exploration. E. 
 Hough. Under the above title a series, of thirteen articles ap- 
 peared in Forest and Stream in the summer of 1894, the first 
 article appearing in the issue of May 5, and the last in that of 
 August 25 of that year. These articles are of great interest 
 and value as forming probably the most complete discussion of 
 the game question in the Park that has yet appeared. Their 
 descriptions of snow-shoe traveling and of the winter scenery 
 of that region are well worthy of perusal. The graphic nar- 
 rative of the arrest of the poacher, Ho well, is an important 
 feature. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park as a Game Preserve, 2. 
 Yellowstone National Park, Geological Chemistry of, 27. 
 Yellowstone National Park, Geological History of, 43. 
 Yellowstone National Park, Glacial Phenomena in, 51. 
 Yellowstone National Park, Guide Books of, 56. 
 Yellowstone National Park, Horseback Rides through, 58. 
 Yellowstone National Park, Hot Springs and Geysers of 3 
 31, 48, 49, 59, 60. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park. How to reach it, 127. 
 
 159. Yellowstone National Park from the Hurricane Deck 
 of a Cayuse ; or, The Liederkranz Expedition to Geyserland. 
 W. H. Dudley. Butte City, Montana. 1886. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Journey through, 66. 
 Yellowstone National Park, Map of, 68. 
 Yellowstone National Park, Mineral Waters of, 76. 
 
 160. Yellowstone National Park and the Mountain Regions 
 of Portions of Idaho, Nevada, Colorado, and Utah. F. V. 
 Hayden. Boston. 1876. Large folio. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Obsidian in, 82. 
 
 161. Yellowstone National Park, Past, Present, and Future. 
 
384 APPENDIX E. 
 
 Facts for the Consideration of the Committee on Territories for 
 1891, and Future Committees. G. L. Henderson. Wash- 
 ington : Gibson Brothers. 1891. 
 
 162. Yellowstone National Park in Photogravure. F. J. 
 Haynes. Fargo, North Dakota. 1887. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Protection in, 61. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Protective Act, 61. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Reconnaissance to, 89, 90. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Reconnaissance of Streams and 
 Lakes of, 91, 92. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Reconnaissance for a Wagon 
 Road to, 93. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Roads in, 98. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Scorodite in, 100. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Therapeutical Value of Springs 
 of, 108. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Thermal Springs of, 109. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Through the, to Fort Custer, 
 112. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Through the, on Horseback, 
 113. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, A Trip to, 116. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Unexplained Phenomena of, 
 118. 
 
 Yellowstone River, Reconnaissance of, 94. 
 
 Yellowstone, Valley of the Upper, 119. 
 
 Yellowstone, A Week in the, 123. 
 
 Yellowstone, Wonders of the, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Appendices A and E being carefully arranged alphabetically, names found in 
 them are not included in this index unless they also occur in the main body 
 of the work. The few abbreviations used are self-explanatory.] 
 
 Absaroka, Indian name for Crow Tribe, 8. 
 Absaroka Range, name considered, 289. 
 
 described, 152, 240, 
 
 first ascent of, 80, 295. 
 
 first crossed, 104. 
 
 profile of human face in, 243. 
 Act of Dedication becomes a law, 95. 
 
 comments upon, 96, 97. 
 
 history of, 92-5. 
 
 provisions of, 127. 
 
 text of, 345. 
 
 vote ou, 95. 
 
 Act of 1883, Military Assistance in pro- 
 tecting Park, 134, 347. 
 Act of 1890, admitting Wyoming, 347. 
 Act of 1894, National Park Protective 
 
 Act, 141, 145, 348. 
 
 Act of 1894, regulating leases, 141, 352. 
 Adirondacks, proposal for reservation 
 
 in, 97. 
 
 Administration of the Park, 206-8. 
 Administrative History of the Y. N. P., 
 
 127-141. 
 Adverse reports on railroad projects, 
 
 etc., 141. 
 Africa, preserve for big game in, 97. 
 
 thermal springs of, 161. 
 Alder Gulch, discovery of gold in. 66. 
 Algonquian family ol Indians, 8. 
 
 territory, 37. 
 
 Altitudes in the Y. N. P., 154. 
 AiVarez, Spanish trader, 46, 49. 
 American Fur Company, historical 
 
 sketch of, 34-5, 38. 
 American Fur Company, territory of, 
 
 35, 37. 
 Amethyst Mountain, 26.3. 
 
 Anderson, Captain G. S., eighth superin- 
 tendent Y. N. P., 139. 
 
 plans capture of Howell, 143. 
 
 quoted. 273, 276. 
 
 Andesitic lava flows in Y. N. P., 157. 
 "Annie," first boat on Y. Lake, 336. 
 Antelope, habitat of, in Y. N. P., 216. 
 Apollinaris Spring, 217. 
 Appropriations for the Y. N. P., 357. 
 Area of the Y. N. P., 148. 
 Arnold, A. J., member of Helena tourist 
 
 party, 112, 120. 
 Arsenic Geyser, 220. 
 Artemesia Geyser, 228. 
 Arthur, Chester A., visits Y. N. P., 107, 
 
 371. 
 
 Assistant Superintendents, Y. N. P., 135. 
 Astor, John Jacob, and the American 
 
 fur trade, 34. 
 Astorians, The, 21, 23. 
 
 departure of, for Pacific coast, 31. 
 
 surrender to N. W. Fur Co., 33. 
 Astringent Creek, 143. 
 Atlantic Creek, 246. 
 Atmosphere of the Y. N. P., 199, 210. 
 Australia, thermal springs of, 161. 
 Autumn foliage in the Y. N. P., 192. 
 
 Baird, S. F., presents Lieutenant Doane's 
 report to Phil. Soc. of Washington, 83. 
 Bannock Indians, 8, 10. 
 incursion of, into Y. N. P., 126, 215. 
 territory of, 10. 
 Bannock Peak, 217. 
 Bannock Trail, 17, 24, 43. 
 Baring-Gould's theory of geyser action, 
 166. 
 
 1385) 
 
386 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Barlow, Captain J. \V., expedition of, 
 85-6, 291. 
 
 quoted, 6, 231, 344. 
 
 report of, 86. 
 
 Baronett, C. J., biographical sketch, 292. 
 Baronett's Bridge burned, 124. 
 
 history of, 261. 
 
 Basaltic lava flows in Y. N. P., 157. 
 Bath Lake, 214. 
 Battle of trappers and Indians near Y. 
 
 Lake, 49. 
 
 Battle of the Big Hole, 116. 
 Bays of the Y. Lake, 335. 
 Bears and tourists, 184. 
 Bear Creek, 70. 
 Beaver Lake, 219. 
 Bechler River, 151. 
 Bee Hive Geyser, 234. 
 Belknap, W. \V., visits Y. N. P., 105. 
 Beryl Spring, 221. 
 Bibliography of the Y. N. P., 361. 
 Biddle Lake, first name for Jackson 
 
 Lake, 331. 
 
 Big Game Ridge, 153. 
 Big Hole, Battle of the, 116. 
 Bighorn River, Lisa's fort on, 29, 31. 
 
 source of, 188. 
 
 Big Thunder, Nez Percfe chief, 113. 
 Birds in the Y. N. P., 185. 
 Biscuit Basin, 228. 
 Blackfeet Indians, 8, 9. 
 
 territory of, 8, 9, 18. 
 
 treaties with, 18, 19. 
 Black Growler, 175, 220. 
 Black Sand Basin, 230. 
 Elaine, J. G., introduces Langford at 
 Washington lecture, 84. 
 
 signs Act of Dedication, 346. 
 Block house, ancient, in Y. N. P., 41. 
 Boat, first on Y. Lake, 337. 
 Boat ride on Y. Lake, 243. 
 Boiling River, 212. 
 Boiling Springs in Y. N. P., 174. 
 Bonneville, Captain, 37. 
 
 refers to Firehole River, 49, 316. 
 Bottler's Ranch, 120. 
 Boundaries of the Y. N. P., 148, 278-280, 
 
 333. 
 
 Boutelle, Captain F. A., Seventh Super- 
 intendent of the Park, 139. 
 Bradbury, John, 3, 21. 
 
 Bradbury, John, interviews Colter, 28. 
 
 Bradley, F. H., quoted, 321, 331, 332, 333. 
 
 Bridge, Baronett. See Baronett's Bridge. 
 
 Bridge Creek. 244. 
 
 Bridge, Natural, 244. 
 
 Bridge over the Y. River, 203 
 
 Bridger, James, ability of as guide, 328. 
 
 biographical sketch, 327. 
 
 acquaintance of with Park country, 
 51, 52, 61. 
 
 disbelieved by the public, 53, 57. 
 
 guide to Captain Reynolds, 59. 
 
 his stories, 54-56. 
 
 partner in Rocky Mountain Fur Com- 
 pany, 36. 
 
 and Two-Ocean Pass, 61, 245. 
 British Fur Companies, strife between, 
 
 34. 
 British Fur Traders excluded from U. S. 
 
 Territory, 34. 
 Bronze Geyser, 240. 
 Buffalo Of Y. N. P., 143, 184. 
 Buildings at Mammoth Hot Springs, 209, 
 
 216. 
 
 Buildings in Y. N. P. in 1880, 132 
 Bnnsen Peak, 215. 
 
 Bunsen's theory of geyser action, 163-5. 
 Burgess, Felix, government scout, 110. 
 
 arrests Howell, 143, 144. 
 " Burning Mountains," 13, 16. 
 
 Cache Creek, name of, 70. 
 
 Calcareous Springs in the Y. N. P., 173. 
 
 California, discovery of gold in, 39, 100. 
 
 Camas Creek, Battle of, 116. 
 
 Camping in the Y. N. P., 205. 
 
 Canadian National Park, 97. 
 
 Canadian Niagara Park, 97. 
 
 Cafion Hotel, 253. 
 
 Capes of the Y. Lake, 336. 
 
 Carpenter, Frank and Ida, members of 
 
 Radersburg tourist party, 112. 
 experiences of, with Nez Perc6s, 117-19. 
 Carpenter, R. E., Fourth Superintendent 
 
 Y. N. P., 136. 
 
 removed from office. 136. 
 Cascade Creek, 180, 253. 
 Castle Geyser, 167, 230. 
 Cathedral Rock, 215. 
 Catlin, George, biographical sketch of, 
 
 87-8. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Catlin, George, Indian Gallery of, 88. 
 originates Park idea, 89. 
 quoted, 88-9 
 Chittenden, Lieutenant, H. M., measures 
 
 height of Upper Fall, 326. 
 Chouteau, Valle & Co. buy out Astor, 35. 
 Clagett W. H., his work for Park bill, 
 
 92. 94. 
 Claimants for credit of originating Park 
 
 idea, 90. 
 
 Clark's Fork Mining District, 264. 
 Clark, Wm., gives names to Y. Lake and 
 
 Jackson Lake, 24. 
 mentioned, 5, 21, 22. 
 receives information from Colter, 27, 
 
 31. 
 
 Cleopatra Spring, 214. 
 Climate of the Y. N. P., 189, 198. 
 Coast and Geodetic Survey, monument 
 
 of, near Y. Lake, 248. 
 Cold-water geyser, 48. 
 Cole, Senator, remarks of, on Park bill, 
 
 94. 
 
 Colfax, Schuyler, signs Act of Dedica- 
 tion, 346. 
 Color of rock in Grand Cafion, 253. 
 
 water in Hot Springs, 172, 213. 
 Colter, John, adventure of, with the 
 
 Blackfeet, 28-31. 
 character of, 21. 
 
 declines to join the Astorians, 31. 
 discovers Grand Caflon of the Y. 27. 
 discovers Jackson Lake, 24. 
 discovers Mammoth Hot Springs, 26. 
 discovers Tar Spring on the Stinking- 
 water, 23 
 
 discovers Y. Lake, 24, 27. 
 gives Clark information, 31. 
 marries, 31. 
 receives discharge from Lewis and 
 
 Clark, 20. 
 
 returns to St. Louis, 31. 
 whereabouts of, in winter of 1806-7, 22. 
 "Colter's Hell, "28, 31. 
 ."Colter's River," 26. 
 " Colter's Route in 1807," 25-7. 
 Comet Geyser, 230. 
 Commission to examine into grievances 
 
 of Nez Perce Indians, 114, 115. 
 Comsiock, T. B., member of Captain 
 Jones' party in 1873, 105. 
 
 Comstock, T. B., his theory of geyser 
 
 action, 166. 
 quoted 342, 343, 344. 
 Conant Creek, trail along, 12, 24. 
 
 Cone Geysers, 167. 
 Conger, P. H. Third Superintendent of 
 
 Y. N. P., 131. 
 resigns, 136. 
 Congress abolishes civilian police force 
 
 in Park, 137. 
 Congress Geyser, 220. 
 Congressional Reports on Y. N. P., 141. 
 Constant Geyser, 220. 
 Continental Divide, 151, 238. 
 Cook, C. W., Member of Folsom Party in 
 
 1869, 73. 
 
 Cooke City, 264. 
 
 " Corduroying " on snow-shoes, 195. 
 Cost of visiting Y. N. P., 274. 
 Cowan, Mr. and Mrs. Geoge F., members 
 
 Radersburg tourist party, 112. 
 experiences of, with Nez Perces, 118- 
 
 120. 
 
 revisit Park, 120. 
 Craig Pass, 238, 338. 
 Cretaceous Period in Y. N. P. 156. 
 Crevice Creek, 71. 
 
 Crook, General George, visits Park, 106. 
 Crosby, Schuyler, appeals to Congress 
 
 for protection to Y. N. P., 133. 
 member of presidential party, 1883, 107. 
 Crow Indians, territory of, 8, 18. 
 treaties with, 18, 19. 
 tribal characteristics, 8. 
 Crystal Falls, 80, 253. 
 Cubs, The, 232. 
 Cupid's Cave, 214. 
 
 Danger to future existence of Y. N. P.,281. 
 Dawes, Hon. H. U,94, 336. 
 Dawes, Miss Anna L., 336. 
 Death Gulch, 264. 
 De Lacy Creek, 239. 
 De Lacy, W. W., discovers Lower Geyser 
 
 Basin, 68. 
 
 discovers Shoshone Lake, 68. 
 history of his expedition, 67-69. 
 Deluge Geyser, 243. 
 Denudation and erosion, work of, in Y. 
 
 N. P., 158. 
 
 "Devil," frequency of name in Y. N. P.,. 
 287,388. 
 
388 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Devil's Kitchen, 214. 
 
 Diamond, The, Bridger's story of, 35. 
 
 Dietrich, Richard, member of Helena 
 
 tourist party, lit. 
 killed by Nez Perces, 122. 
 Dingee, William, member of Helena 
 
 tourist party, 112. 
 Discovery of gold, 65, 66. 
 Discovery of the Y., 72. 
 
 long delay in, 101. 
 Dgane, Lieutenant G. C., ascends Absa- 
 
 roka Range, 80, 295. 
 biographical sketch, 294. 
 commands escort to Washburn Expe- 
 dition, 14, 76. 
 
 descends Grand Cafion, 80. 
 guide to General Bel knap 105., 
 measures height of Upper Falls, 325. 
 quoted, 6, 14, 78, 175, 235, 237, 254, 261, 297, 
 
 325,343. 
 report of, upon Washburn Expedition, 
 
 83. 
 
 Dome, The, 217. 
 Drainage areas of Y N. P., 149. 
 "Dreamers " among the Nez Perces, 114. 
 Du Charne, Baptiste, upon the Upper Y. 
 
 in 1824, 41. 
 Duncan, L., member of Helena tourist 
 
 party, 1877, 111. 
 
 Dunnell, M. H., and Park bill, 93. 
 Dunraven, Earl of, 9. 
 publishes "Great Divide," 295. 
 quoted, 96. 
 visits Y. N. P., 295. 
 
 Early knowledge of the Y.,50, 60. 
 
 East Gardiner Cafion and Falls, 215. 
 
 Echinus Geyser, 220. 
 
 Elephant Back, original name for Wash- 
 burn Range, 152, 296. 
 
 Electric Peak, 152, 215. 
 
 Electric railways in Y. N. P., 204, 276,277, 
 280.365. 
 
 Elk in Y. N. P., 184. 280. 
 
 Elliott, H. W., 336, 337. 
 
 Emerald Pool (Norris Geyser Basin), 
 
 220. 
 (Upper Geyser Basin), 230. 
 
 Equipment for snow-shoe traveling, 195. 
 
 Erosion, work of, in Y. N. P., 158. 
 
 Eustis Lake, first name for Y. Lake, 
 335. 
 
 Eustis, William, 334. 
 
 Evermann, B. \V., describes Two-Ocean 
 Pass, 245. 
 
 Everts, Mt., 153, 215, 216. 
 
 Everts, T. C., experience of, in 1870, 81,297. 
 member of Washburu Party, 76. 
 
 Excelsior Geyser, 220. 
 
 Expedition of 1869. See Folsom Expedi- 
 tion. 
 of 1870. See Washburn Expedition. 
 
 Explorations by U. S. Government, rela- 
 tion of to Y. N. P., 100. 
 
 Explorers, rush of, to Y. N. P., 103. 
 
 Face, profile of in Absaroka Range, 293. 
 Fairy Fall, 226. 
 Falls River, 151. 
 
 Basin, 154. 
 
 Falls of the Yellowstone described, 251, 
 254. 
 
 measurement of, 80, 105, 325-6. 
 
 not on Colter's map, 27. 
 Fan Geyser, 229. 
 Fauna of the Y. N. P., 181. 
 Fearless Geyser, 220. 
 Firehole Cascade, 222. 
 
 Spring, 225. 
 
 River, 43, 150. 
 Fish Commission U. S., work of, in Y. N. 
 
 P., 186. 
 
 Fishes of the Y. N. P., 185, 186. 
 Fishing Cone, story of, 56. 
 Fishing Cone, west shore Y. Lake, 242. 
 Fishless streams of the Y. N. P., 186. 
 Flora of the Y. N. P., 187. 
 Flow of water from Y. N. P., 190. 
 Flowers of the Y. N. P., 190. 
 Foller, August, member of Helena tour- 
 ist party, 112. 
 Folsom, D. E.,73. 
 
 article by, in Western Monthly, 74. 
 
 measures Falls of the Y., 325. 
 
 quoted, 160, 241,256. 
 
 suggests Park idea, 91. 
 Folsom Expedition, 72-4. 
 Forbes, S. A., quoted. 246. 
 Ford of the Y. River at Mud Geyser, 26, 
 249. 
 
 at Tower Creek, 261. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 389 
 
 Forest and Stream, 145, 281, 383. 
 Forest Reserve, 148. 
 
 Forests of the Y. N. P., economic value 
 of, 188. 
 
 effect of railroads upon, 272. 
 
 extent of, 187. 
 
 preservation of, 207. 
 Formations about geysers, 169. 
 Fort Yellowstone, 208, 216. 
 Fossil Forests of the Y., 177-180, 263 
 Fountain Geyser, 167, 223. 
 Fountain geysers, 167. 
 Fountain Hotel, 223. 
 " Free trappers," 37. 
 French name for Y. River, 2, 7. 
 French and Indian War, 4. 
 Friends of the Y. N. P., 281. 
 Frying Pan, 219. 
 
 Funds for the Y. N. P.; lack of, 128. 
 Fur companies, growth and history, 
 32-36. 
 
 territory controlled by, 37. 
 Fur trade, climax in, 32, 39. 
 
 competition in, 38. 
 
 decline of, 39, 100. 
 
 in its relation to western exploration, 
 32, 99, 100. 
 
 Gallatin Range, 152. 
 Gal latin River, 26,150. 
 Game preserve, the Y, N. P. as a, 181. 
 Game in the Y. N. P., destruction of, 
 183. 
 
 killing of, prohibited, 134. 
 
 present condition of, 184, 383. 
 
 protection of, 181, 207. 
 
 tourists and, 184. 
 Gandy, Captain C. M., photographic 
 
 work of, in Y. N. P., vii. 
 Gannett, Henry, measures heights of 
 Falls, 326. 
 
 quoted, 293, 295, 296. 
 Gardiner's Hole, 317. 
 Gardiner River, 150, 212. 
 
 early known to trappers, 43, 318. 
 Geographical names, importance of, 285. 
 
 policy of the U. S. G. S. in regard to, 
 286. 
 
 in the Y. N. P., 108, 285-6. 
 Geologic activity diminishing, 159. 
 Geology of the Y. N. P., 156-16L 
 
 Geyser action, theories concerning, 163-6. 
 "Geyser," etymology of, 162. 
 Geyser regions of the world, 160-161. 
 Geysers, description of, 162. 
 
 formations about, 169. 
 
 Soaping, 165. 
 
 underground connection, 169. 
 
 water supply for, 169. 
 Giant Geyser, 167, 230. 
 Giantess Geyser, 167, 232. 
 "Giant's Face, "244. 
 Gibbon Cafion, 221. 
 Gibbon Falls, 222. 
 Gibbon, John, 104. 
 
 battle of, with Nez Perces, 116. 
 Gibbon Meadows, 221. 
 Gibbon Paintpots, 221. 
 Gibbon River, 104, 150, 221. 
 Gillette, W. C., member of Washburn 
 
 Party, 76. 
 
 Glacial Epoch in Y. N. P., 158. 
 Glaciers, channels of, 158. 
 Glass Mountain, Bridger's story, 54. 
 Gold, discovery ef, 65. 
 
 in California, 39, 100. 
 
 in Idaho, 65. 
 
 in Montana, 65, 66. 
 
 in the Nez Perce Reservation, 113. 
 Golden Gate, 215. 
 
 Gold-seekers on the Yellowstone, 101. 
 Government officials and protection of 
 
 Y. N. P., 282. 
 
 Grand Cafion of the Y., colors in, 6, 
 254. 
 
 Colter discovers the, 27. 
 
 description of, 253-8. 
 
 in winter, 257. 
 Grand Geyser, 167, 231. 
 Grand Teton, 153. 
 
 ascent of, 222, 309. 
 
 granite blocks near summit, 12, 222, 
 223. 
 
 name considered, 323. 
 Granite Block near Grand Cafion, 258. 
 Granite Blocks near summit of Grand 
 
 Teton, 12, 222, 223. 
 
 Grant, U S., signs Act of Dedication, 346. 
 Gray Peak, 217. 
 Great Bend of the Y., 6, 43. 
 Great Fountain Geyser, 167, 224. 
 Green River, 188. 
 
390 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Grinnell, G. B., 105. 
 Grotto Geyser, 229. 
 Grotto Spring, 249. 
 Gunnison, Captain J. W., and James 
 
 Bridger, 52. 
 quoted, 52, 329. 
 
 Hague, Arnold, quoted, 160, 182, 286, 290, 
 
 306, 321. 
 referred to, 245, 322. 
 
 Hancock, Gen. W. S., 76, 300. 
 Harris, Captain Moses, quoted, 284. 
 
 Sixth Superintendent Y N. P., 138. 
 Hart Lake, 151, 242 
 
 Geyser Basin, 243. 
 Hauser, S. T., descends Grand Cafion,80. 
 
 member of Washburn Party, 76. 
 Hayden and Barlow discover Mammoth 
 Hot Springs, 85. 
 
 route of, 85, 86. 
 Hayden Expedition of 1871, 85, 86. 
 
 results, 86. 
 Hayden Expeditions of 1872 and 1878, 
 
 103. 
 
 Hayden, F. V., biographical sketch, 338- 
 340. 
 
 connection of, with Park bill, 86, 92, 
 93, 95. 
 
 explorations of, in Y. N. P., 85, 103. 
 
 geologist to Captain Raynolds, 59. 
 
 quoted, 6, 95, 213, 286, 293, 294, 296, 301, 
 
 307, 314, 317, 330, 332, 341. 
 referred to, 245. 
 
 Hayden Valley, 154, 250. 
 
 Haynes, F. J., accompanies Presidential 
 
 party, 107, 371. 
 
 winter tours of Y. N. P., 109. 
 work of, in Y. N. P., vii. 
 Health resort, Y. N. P. as a, 199. 
 Heap, Captain D. P., with Captain Bar- 
 low, 1871, 85. 
 
 Hedges, Cornelius, member of Wash- 
 burn Party, 76, 83. 
 quoted, 32, 76, 249, 320. 
 originates National Park project, 91. 
 Helena Berald, and Washburn Expedi- 
 tion, 83. 
 
 Helena tourists, 1877, 111. 
 experiences of, with Nez Perces, 121, 
 
 122. 
 Hell Roaring Creek, 71, 287. 
 
 Henry, Andrew, fur trader, 330. 
 
 Henry, Joseph, quoted, 89. 
 
 Henry Lake, 330. 
 Howard's command at, 116. 
 
 Highland Plateau, 153. 
 
 Holmes, Mount, 217. 
 
 Holmes, \Vm. H., quoted, 306. 
 
 Hoodoo Region, 265. 
 
 Hostility to the Y. N. P., vi., 267-9. 
 
 Hotel system of Y. N. P., 204. 
 
 Hot Spring, color of water in, 172, 213. 
 
 Hot Springs of the Y. N. P., 162, 172-5. 
 
 Hot Springs and Geysers, water supply 
 for, 169. 
 
 Hot Springs in Grand Cafion, 254. 
 
 Hough, E., connection of, with the How- 
 ell episode, 145, 383. 
 quoted, 258. 
 
 winter tour of, through Y. N. P., 110, 
 145. 
 
 Howard, General O. O., and Nez Perc6 
 campaign, 106, 115, 116, 123. 
 
 " Howard's Trail," 126. 
 
 Howell the Poacher, capture and con- 
 viction of, 144-6. 
 
 Hoyt, J. W., expedition of, 15, 106. 
 
 Hudson's Bay Fur Company, historical 
 
 sketch 33-5. 
 territory of, 34, 37. 
 
 Hurricane, The, 220. 
 
 Huston, George, crosses Park country, 71. 
 
 Iceland, thermal springs of, 161. 
 Idaho, admission of, to Union, 282. 
 Indians and name Yellowstone, 3, 7, 16. 
 
 implements of, in Y. N. P., 12. 
 
 knowledge of, concerning the geyser 
 regions, 8, 13-17, 98. 
 
 title of, to Y. N. P., 19. 
 
 traditions of, concerning Y. N. P., 16. 
 
 trails of, in Y. N. P., 11, 12, 13. 
 
 treaties with, 18, 19. 
 
 tribes of, near Y. N. P., 8. 
 
 visits of, to Park country, 17. 
 Inscription on pine tree near Grand 
 
 Cafion, 40, 251. 
 Inspiration Point, 254. 
 Invalids at Mammoth Hot Springs in 
 
 1871, 200, 212. 
 
 Irving, Washington, quotes Bradbury, 28. 
 Isa Lake, 238. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 391 
 
 Islands of Y. Lake. 335. 
 Itasca State Park, 97. 
 
 Jackson, David, fur trader, 36. 
 Jackson Lake, first named by Wm. 
 Clark, 24, 331. 
 
 discovered, 24. 
 
 mentioned, 152,222. 
 Jackson, W. H., photographer in Y. N. 
 
 P., vii. 
 
 Jefferson Fork, scene of Colter's adven- 
 ture, 29. 
 
 Jefferson, Thomas, 1. 
 Jewel Geyser, 228. 
 Jones Creek, 104. 
 
 Jones, Captain W. A., discovers and 
 names Two-Gwo-Tee Pass, 105. 
 
 discovers Two-Ocean Pass, 104, 245. 
 
 expedition of, 15, 104. 
 
 first to cross Absaroka Range, 104. 
 
 measures Y. Falls, 326. 
 
 names mountains east of Park, 289. 
 
 quoted, 6. 
 
 Joseph, Non-treaty Nez Perc6 chief, 113, 
 126. 
 
 estimate of his character, 301. 
 Joseph Peak, 217. 
 Junction Butte, 261. 
 Junction Valley, 154, 2G3. 
 Jupiter Terrace, 214. 
 
 Kansas City Journal, editor of, rejects 
 
 Bridger's statements, 53. 
 Kenck, Charles, member Helena Tourist 
 
 Party, 112. 
 
 killed by Nez Perces, 122. 
 Kepler Cascade, 237. 
 Killing of game in Y. N. P. prohibited, 
 
 134. 
 Kingman, Lieutenant D. C., prepares 
 
 project for Park road system, 140. 
 quoted, 271. 
 reports of, 140. 
 Kingman Pass, 215. 
 
 Lake Shore Geyser, 242. 
 Lake View, 240. 
 Lakes of the Y. N. P., 151. 
 Lamur River, 150. 
 Caflon of, 263. 
 
 Langford, N. P., 27, 55. 
 
 advocates Park project, 92. 
 
 ascends Absaroka Range, 80, 295. 
 
 ascends Grand Teton, 222, 309. 
 
 biographical sketch of, 302. 
 
 first Superintendent Y. N. P. 129. 
 
 lectures on the Washburn Expedition, 
 84. 
 
 measures height of Lower Fall, 325. 
 
 member of the Washburn Expedition, 
 75. 
 
 publishes articles on Washburn Expe- 
 dition, 84. 
 
 quoted, 92, 232, 305, 312, 317. 
 
 reprints Folsom's article, 74. 
 
 work of, for Park Bill, 92-3. 
 Laws for Y. N. P., lack of, 127. 
 Leases, Act of 1894 regulating, 141, 352. 
 
 of land to Y. N. P. Improvement Co., 
 132. 
 
 and privileges in Y. N. P., 132, 207. 
 
 revenue from, 128. 
 Lewis and Clark among the Mandans, 1. 
 
 expedition of, 101. 
 
 give Colter his discharge, 20. 
 
 and North-west Fur Co., traders, 33. 
 
 use name "Yellow Stone," 1, 2. 
 
 quoted, 20. 
 
 return journey of, 20. 
 
 send report to President Jefferson, 1. 
 Lewis Lake, 151. 
 
 Lewis, Meriwether, kills a Blackfoot In- 
 dian, 9. 
 
 Lewis River, 151 . 
 Liberty Cap, 214. 
 
 " Life in the Rocky Mountains," referred 
 to, 44. 
 
 quoted from, 44, 48. 
 Lincoln Pass, 23. 
 Linton, Edwin, quoted. 247. 
 Lion Geyser, 232. 
 Lioness Geyser, 232. 
 Lisa, Manuel, at mouth of Bighorn 
 
 River, 29. 
 
 Locomotive Spring, 220. 
 Lone Star Geyser, 167, 237. 
 "Lone Traders, "37. 
 Looking Glass, Nez Perce chief, 113. 
 Lookout Hill, 214. 
 Lookout Point, 254. 
 
392 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Louisiana, cession of to U, S., 3. 
 Lower Fall of the Y., described, 254. 
 
 recorded measurements of, 325-6 
 Lower Geyser Basin, 223. 
 Ludlow, Captain William, explorations 
 of, 105. 
 
 measures Fulls of Y., 105, 326. 
 
 quoted, 209. 253, 297. 
 
 report of, 105. 
 
 Mackenzie, theory of geyser action, 166. 
 
 Madison Lake, 237, 333. 
 
 Madison Plateau, 153. 
 
 Madison River, 150. 
 
 Madison Valley, 154. 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs, buildings at, 209, 
 
 216. 
 
 described, 173, 212. 
 discovery of, 26, 85. 
 
 Mandan Indians, 1, 2, 4. 
 
 Mann, Charlos, member of Radersburg 
 Tourist party, 112. 
 
 Map of Y. N. P., vii. 
 
 Map, Raynolds', 63. 
 
 Marten traps, discovery of cache of, 41. 
 
 Mason, Major J. W., commands escort to 
 Governor Hoyt, 106. 
 
 Maynadier, Lieutenant, commands de- 
 tachment of Raynolds Party, 59, 60. 
 quoted, 62. 
 
 McCartney, C. J., attacked by NezPerces, 
 123. 
 
 McCartney Cave, 214. 
 
 Meek, Joseph, adventures of, 42. 
 
 Members of Congress from States near 
 Park, 282-3. 
 
 Mexico, war with, 39 100. 
 
 Middle Gardiner Kails and Cafion, 215. 
 
 Midway Geyser Basin, 226. 
 
 Mileage of Park Road System, 202. 
 
 Miles, General N". A., intercepts and cap- 
 tures Nez I'erces, 124. 
 
 Mineral Springs of the Y. N. P., thera- 
 peutic value of. 199 
 
 Minerva Terrace, 214. 
 
 Minnetaree, Indian dialect, 7. 
 
 Minute Man, 220. 
 
 Mirror Plateau, 153. 
 
 Missouri Fur Co., 29, 35. 
 
 Missouri Gazette, extract from, 21, 23. 
 
 Missouri River, 1, 4, 150, 188. 
 
 Missouri River, fur trade along, 35. 
 Mi tsi a-da-zi, Indian name for Yellow- 
 stone, 7. 
 
 Monarch Geyser, 220. 
 Montana Territory, becomes a state, 288. 
 
 early explorations in, 3. 
 
 emigration to, 66. 
 
 population of, in 1862, 66. 
 Monument Geyser Basin, 221. 
 Monument, survey, 248. 
 Moore, Charles, sketches by, 168. 
 
 records height of Falls, 326. 
 Moran, Thomas, painting by, 256. 
 
 quoted, 256. 
 
 Mormon emigration, 39, 100. 
 Morning Glory, 229. 
 Mound, artificial in Y. N. P., 12. 
 Mountain sheep of Y. N. P., 216. 
 Mountain stream of hot water, Bridger's 
 
 story, 55. 
 
 Mountain Systems of the West, forma- 
 tion of, 156. 
 
 of the Y. N. P., 151, 152. 
 Mud Geyser, Norris Geyser Basin, 220. 
 
 Y. River, 249, 
 Mud Volcano, 248. 
 Mystic Fall, 228. 
 
 Names of Hot Springs and Geysers, 287. 
 Narrow Gauge Terrace, 214. 
 National Park project, origin of, 87-92 . 
 National Park Protective Act, 110, 141-5, 
 
 348. 
 National Parks on sites of battle-fields, 
 
 97. 
 
 Natural Bridge, 244. 
 Navigation of Y. Lake and River, 203. 
 New Crater Geyser, 220. 
 New Yotk Tribune quotes Langford on 
 
 Park project. 92. 
 
 New Zealand, thermal springs of, 97, 161. 
 Nez Perce Creek, 126, 150, 223. 
 Nez Perce Indians attack Y. N. P. tour- 
 ists, 118, 121. 
 
 cede territory to U. S., 113. 
 
 characteristics of, 114. 
 
 fate of, 126. 
 
 impress white man as guide, 14. 
 
 incursion of, into Y. N. P., 117-123, 215. 
 
 surrender to Miles, 124. 
 
 territory of, 112. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 393 
 
 Nez Perces Indians, treaties with, 113. 
 Nez Perce War, beginning of, 115. 
 
 causes of, 112, 115. 
 
 criticism upon, 125. 
 
 statistics of, 125. 
 
 Niagara Falls compared with the Falls 
 of the Y., 251, 254. 
 
 original sketch of, 168. 
 Niagara Park, Canadian, 97. 
 
 New York State, 97. 
 Non-treaty Nez Percys, 113. 
 Norris, P. W., biographical sketch of, 303. 
 
 builds road of volcanic glass, 218. 
 
 criticism of his work, 131. 
 
 discoveries of, 40, 41, 108, 130. 
 
 names Dnnraven Peak after himself, 
 295. 
 
 quoted, 15, 218, 265, 307, 314, 324, 331, 343. 
 
 road work of, 130. 
 
 second Superintendent Y. N. P., 14, 129, 
 130. 
 
 writings of, 131. 
 Norris Geyser Basin, 220, 340. 
 
 discovery of, 340. 
 
 North-west Fur Company and name 
 " Yellowstone," 4. 
 
 sketch of, 33. 
 
 Oblong Geyser, 230. 
 Obsidian Cliff, 217. 
 
 first road past, 218. 
 
 Indian quarry at, 12, 217. 
 Old Faithful, 167, 234-6 
 
 discovery of, 82. 
 Oldham, Albert, member Radersburg 
 
 tourist party, 112. 
 "Old Man of the Mountains," 244. 
 Orange Geyser, 214. 
 Original sketches of Park scenery, 168, 
 
 169. 
 Orographic gencies, work of. n Park, 
 
 157. 
 Overhead sounds near Y. Lake, 246. 
 
 Pacific Creek, 246. 
 Pacific Fur Co., 34. 
 Paintpots described, 174 
 
 on west shore Y. Lake, 242 
 Peale, A. C.. quoted, 13, 323, 344. 
 
 work of, in Y. N. P., 361, 363. 
 Pearl Geyser, 220. 
 
 Pend d'Oreilles Indians in geyser basins, 
 
 14,45. 
 Peterson, W., member of Folsom party, 
 
 73. 
 Petrifactions in Y. N. P., Bridger's story, 
 
 56. 
 
 perfection of, 179. 
 Pfister, Frederick, member of Helena 
 
 tourist party, 112. 
 Phillips, W. H., connection of, with Y. 
 
 N. P., 281. 
 
 Photography of Grand Cafion, 256. 
 Pierre Janne. See Roche Janne. 
 Pierre's Hole, 24. 
 Pike, Z. M., gives Spanish translation of 
 
 Pierre Janne, 5. 
 
 Pine, prevalence of, in Y. N. P., 188. 
 Pine tree inscribed with date 1819, 40, 251. 
 Pitchstone Plateau, 153. 
 Plateaus of the Y. N. P., 153. 
 Platte River, 188. 
 Poe, General O. M., 105. 
 
 quoted, 287. 
 Pompey's Pillar, 5. 
 Potts, companion of Colter, 29. 
 Precedent, effect of, upon future of Y. 
 
 N. P , 284. 
 
 Presidential Party of 1883, 107, 371. 
 Prismatic Lake, 227. 
 Private interests and Y. N. P., 280. 
 Prospecting expeditions in the Upper 
 
 Y., 7, 66-71. 
 Prospectors, unknown, slain by Nez Per- 
 
 cfis, 121. 
 
 Protection of game, 181, 207. 
 Protective Act, Y. N. P., 110, 141. 
 Public business in Y. N. P., 139. 
 Pulpit Terrace, 214. 
 Punch bowl, 230. 
 Pryor's Fork, 22. 
 Pryor's Gap, 23, 24. 
 
 Quadrant Mountain, 217. 
 Quiescent Springs, 172-3. 
 
 Radersburg tourist party, 1877, 112. 
 experiences of, with Nez Percfis, 117- 
 
 120. 
 Railroads and the Y. N. P., 133, 270-6, 
 
 280, 365. 
 Rapids of the Y. River, 251. 
 
394 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Raymond, R. W., quoted, 6. 
 
 Raynolds, Captain W. F., expedition of, 
 
 58, 59, 101. 
 map of, 62. 
 quoted, 60, 61,62. 
 report of, 63. 
 
 Red Mountain Range, 152. 
 Rendezvous in the fur trade, 36. 
 Reservoir, Y. Lake as a, 190. 
 Rhyolitic rocks in Y. K. P., 157. 
 " River of the West," 42. 
 
 quoted from, 42, 317. 
 River sources in and near Y. N. P., 188. 
 Riverside Geyser, 229. 
 Road system of the Y. N. P., 140, 201-7. 
 Roberts, Joseph, member of Helena 
 
 tourist party, 112. 
 Roche Janne, French name for Y. River, 
 
 2, 3, 7. 
 Rocky Mountains ascended by De La 
 
 Verendrye, 4. 
 Rocky Mountain Fur Company sketch, 
 
 of, 36, 38. 
 
 territory of, 36, 37. 
 Routes from the east to the Pacific 
 
 Coast, 100. 
 Rules and Regulations for the Y. N. P., 
 
 354. 
 
 Rustic Falls, 215. 
 Rustic Geyser, old logs around, 13, 243. 
 
 Sapphire Pool, 228. 
 
 Sawmill Geyser, 230. 
 
 Scenery of the Y. N, P., 155, 209. 
 
 in winter, 197. 
 
 Scenic portion of tourist route, 260. 
 Schemes to destroy the Y. N. P., 268. 
 Schofleld, Lieutenant, meets Radersburg 
 
 tourists, 120. 
 
 Schurz, Carl, visits Park, 106. 
 Schwatka, Frederick, attempts winter 
 
 journey through Y. N. P., 108. 
 Seasons in the Y. N. P., 193, 199 
 Secretary of the Interior applies for 
 
 military aid, 137. 
 instruction of, to first superintendent, 
 
 270. 
 
 Segregation projects, 133,278, 280, 365. 
 Sepulcher Mountain, 215. 
 Sequoia National Park, 97. 
 
 Sheepeater Indians, 8, 18, 306. 
 
 characteristics of, 10, 11. 
 
 ignorant of geyser regions, 15. 
 
 number of, 17. 
 
 original occupants of park country, 
 10, 11, 13, 14, 17. 
 
 relics of, 13. 
 Sheridan Mt., 15, 152, 242. 
 
 an extinct volcano, 156. 
 Sheridan, General P. H., aids exploration 
 and discovery, 75. 
 
 gives public warning of dangers to 
 Park, 106, 133. 
 
 quoted, 15. 
 
 visits Park, 106, 107. 
 
 Sherman, General W. T., quoted, 111, 
 256. 
 
 visits Park, 105. 
 Shively, Nez Perce guide, 123. 
 Shoshonean family of Indians, 8. 
 
 territory, 37. 
 Shoshone Indians, 8, 18. 
 
 characteristics of, 9, 10. 
 
 Spanish articles among, 5. 
 
 treaty with, 18. 
 Shoshone Geyser Basin, 239. 
 Shoshone Lake, 151, 239, 333. 
 Shoshone Point, 239. 
 Sierra Shoshone Range, 152. 
 Silica, its function in geyser formation, 
 
 170. 
 Siouan family of Indians, 8. 
 
 territory, 37. 
 
 Ski, Norwegian snow-shoe, 194. 
 Slough Creek, 71. 
 Smith, Jacob, member of Washburn 
 
 Party, 76. 
 
 Smith, Jedediah, fur trader, 36. 
 Snake Creek, battle of, 124. 
 Snake River, 26, 150. 
 Snowfall in Y. N. P., 193. 
 Snow-shoe traveling in Y. N. P., 194, 195. 
 
 196. 
 
 Snowy Range, 152. 
 Soaping Geysers, 165, 343. 
 Soda Butte, 264. 
 
 Cafion, 264. 
 
 Creek, 150. 
 Soda Spring, 221. 
 Solar eclipse of 1860, 59. 
 South-west Fur Co., 35. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 395 
 
 Spanish traders and name " Yellow- 
 stone," 5. 
 
 Specimen Ridge, 179, 180, 263. 
 
 Spike Geyser, 243. 
 
 Splendid Geyser, 230. 
 
 Sponge, The, 232. 
 
 Spring Creek Caflon, 238. 
 
 Spurgin, Captain W. F., builds road for 
 Howard across Y. N. P., 124, 126. 
 
 Stage rides in Y. N. P., 277. 
 
 Stanley, E. J., quoted, 322. 
 
 Stanton, Captain W. S., makes reconnais- 
 sance through Y. N' P., 106. 
 
 Steady Geyser, 225. 
 
 Steamboat, first to reach mouth of Y. 
 River, 87. 
 
 Steamboat Spring, 175, 244. 
 
 Steam vents, 175. 
 
 Stevenson, James, ascends Grand Teton, 
 
 222, 309. 
 
 biographical sketch, 307-308. 
 builds first boat on Y. .Lake, 337. 
 
 Stewart, J., member of Helena party of 
 tourists, 112. 
 
 Stickney, Benj., member of Washburn 
 
 party, 76. 
 descends to bottom of Grand Caflon, 80. 
 
 Stinking Cabin Creek, 322. 
 
 Stone. Benj., experience of with Nez 
 
 Percys, 123. 
 member Helena party of tourists, 112. 
 
 Stone, Mrs. H. H., first white woman to 
 visit Park, 340. 
 
 Streams of N. Y. P., fish in, 186. 
 
 Strong, Gen. W. E., accompanies Secre- 
 tary Belknap to Y. N. P., 105. 
 
 Stuart, James, 65, 70. 
 
 Sturgis, General S. D., attacks Nez Perces, 
 
 124. 
 fails to intercept Nez Perces, 124. 
 
 Sublette Lake, early name for Y. Lake, 
 335. 
 
 Sublette, William, fur trader, 36. 
 
 Subterranean heat, origin of, 158. 
 
 Sulphur Mountain, 249. 
 Spring, 250. 
 
 Superintendents of the Park, duties of, 
 
 206, 207. 
 list of, 359. 
 
 Swan Lake, 217. 
 Flats, 154. 
 
 Talmage, T. DeWitt, quoted, 253, 257. 
 
 Temperatures in Y. N. P., 198. 
 
 Terraces, formation of, 173, 212. 
 
 Terrace Mountain, 215. 
 
 Tertiary Period in Y. N. P., 156. 
 
 Teton, Grand. See Grand Teton. 
 
 Teton Pass, 24. 
 
 Teton Range, 152, 222, 243. 
 
 Therapeutic value of springs in Y. N. P., 
 199. 
 
 Thermal activity in Y. N. P. not dimin- 
 ishing, 160. 
 
 Thermal springs, geographical distribu- 
 tion of, 160. 
 
 Third Canon of the Y., 266. 
 
 Thompson, David, and name " Yellow- 
 stone," 1, 2. 
 and source of Y. River, 2. 
 
 Thumb of Y. Lake, 241, 335. 
 
 Topping, E. S., quoted, 313, 315. 
 
 Tour of the Y. N. P., best season for, 210. 
 
 Tourists and wild animals in Y. N. P., 
 184. 
 
 Tourists' season in Y. N. P., 193. 
 
 Tower Falls, 261. 
 discovered, 78. 
 
 Transportation in the Y. N. P., 204. 
 
 Trappers ignorant of geyser regions, 99. 
 
 Treaties with Indians, 18, 19. 
 
 Tree inscribed with date 1819, 40, 251. 
 
 Trees of Y. N. P., 187. 
 
 Trout Creek, serpentine course of, 249. 
 
 Trout in Y. Lake, 186. 
 
 Trumbull, Walter, member Washburn 
 
 Party, 76. 
 
 publications by, 83, 84. 
 sketches by, 169. 
 
 Tukurika, native name for Sheepeater 
 Indians, S, 10. 
 
 Turban Geyser, 230. 
 
 Turquoise Spring, 227. 
 
 Twin Buttes, 225. 
 
 Twin Lakes, 219. 
 
 Two-Gwo-Tee Pass, 105. 
 
 Two-Ocean Pass, 59, 105, 245. 333. 
 crossed by fish, 186. 
 discovered, 104, 245. 
 
 Tyndall, John, quoted, 174. 
 
 Union Geyser, 167, ^M. 
 Pass, 23, 59. 
 
396 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 U. S. Geological Survey, explorations 
 
 under, 103. 
 measurements by, of height of Falls, 
 
 326. 
 
 names by, in Y. N. P., 286. 
 Unknown visitor to geyser basins in 
 
 1833, 14, 44. 
 
 Upper Fall of the Y., 251. 
 Upper Geyser Basin, 228. 
 discovery of, 82. 
 visited in 1833, 44. 
 
 Valleys of the Y. N. P., 153. 
 Vandalism in the Y. N. P., 207. 
 Verendrye, Chevalier de la, explora- 
 tions of, 4. 
 
 Vest, Senator G. C., connection of with 
 Y. N. P., 281. 
 
 member Presidential party, 1883, 107. 
 
 quoted, 282. 
 Virginia Cascade, 220. 
 Visitors to Y. N. P. in 1883, 107. 
 Vixen Geyser, 220. 
 Volcanic rocks in Y. N. P., 157. 
 
 War of Rebellion, 63. 
 War with Mexico, 100. 
 Washburn Expedition of 1870, history of, 
 75-84. 
 
 organization of, 75-7. 
 
 results of, 84. 
 
 revives Park idea, 90. 
 Washburn, General H. D., biographical 
 sketch, 311. 
 
 chief of Washburn Expedition, 75. 
 
 "notes" of, upon Washburn Expedi- 
 tion, 83. 
 
 quoted, 325. 
 Washburn, Mt., 152, 260. 
 
 an extinct volcano, 156. 
 Washburn Range, 17, 152. 
 
 original name of, 152. 
 
 on Colter's map, 26. 
 Wasp, The, 48. 
 
 Watchmen at Park hotels in winter, 194. 
 Water-falls of Y. N. P., 151, 324. 
 Wear, D. W., Fifth Superintendent Y. N. 
 
 P., 137. 
 
 Weed, W. H., quoted, 264. 
 Weikert, A. J., member of Helena tour- 
 ist party, 111. 
 
 Weikert, A. J., experience of, with Nez 
 
 Perces, 123-6. 
 
 We-Saw, Shoshone Indian, 15. 
 West Shore geyser basin, 242. 
 White Bird, Nez Perc6 chief, 113. 
 White Elephant, 214. 
 Wilkie, Leslie, member Helena tourist 
 
 party, 112. 
 
 Willow Park, 154, 217. 
 Wingate, G. W., quoted, 190. 
 Winter journeys through the Y. N. P., IDS. 
 Winter in the Y. N. P., 197, 198. 
 Witch Creek, 243. 
 Wyeth, Nathaniel J., 37. 
 Wyoming, admission of, to Union, 282,347. 
 Wyoming Territory attempts to proiect 
 ' Park, 134, 135. 
 
 " Yancey's," 263. 
 
 "Yellowstone," origin of name, 1-7. 
 
 Spanish translation of, 5, note. 
 Yellowstone, first steamboat at mouth of 
 
 Y. River, 87. 
 Yellowstone, discovery of the, 72. 
 
 early knowledge of the, 40, 50, 60. 
 
 fossil forests of the, 177-180, 263. 
 
 gold-seekers on the, 101. 
 
 Grand Cafion of, colors in, 6, 254. 
 
 Third Cafion of the, 266. 
 
 Upper, prospecting expeditions on the, 
 66-71. 
 
 Upper, why so long unknown, 99, 101. 
 Yellowstone Falls, compared with Ni- 
 agara, 251, 254. 
 
 Lower, 251,254. 
 
 measurement of heights, 80, 325-6 
 
 Upper, 261. 
 Yellowstone Lake, 151, 240, 241. 
 
 bays of, 333. 
 
 boat ride on, 243. 
 
 capes of, 336. 
 
 compared with other lakes. 241. 
 
 discovered, 24, 27. 80. 
 
 first boat on, 337. 
 
 form of, 240. 
 
 islands of, 335 . 
 
 monument on shore of, 248. 
 
 names of, 334. 
 
 navigation of '203. 
 
 overhead sounds near, 246. 
 
 reservoir possibilities of, 190. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 397 
 
 Yellowstone Lake, thumb, of, 241. 
 
 trout of, 186. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, administra- 
 tion of, 206. 
 
 administrative history of, 127-148. 
 
 altitudes in, 154. 
 
 area of, 148. 
 
 Assistant Superintendents of, 135. 
 
 atmosphere of, 210. 
 
 autumn foliage of, 192. 
 
 basaltic lava flows in, 157. 
 
 birds, 185. 
 
 boundaries of, 148, 278-280. 
 
 buffalo of. 143, 184. 
 
 buildings of, in.1880, 132. 
 
 calcareous springs of, 173. 
 
 camping in, 205. 
 
 Climate of, 189, 198. 
 
 Congressional Reports on, 141. 
 
 cost of visiting, 274. 
 
 Cretaceous Period in, 156. 
 
 danger to future existence of, 281. 
 
 drainage areas of, 149. 
 
 economic importance of, 190. 
 
 electric railways in, 204, 276-280. 
 
 elk in, 280 
 
 exploration of, 103, 108. 
 
 fauna of, 181. 
 
 fishes of, 185-6. 
 
 flora of, 187. 
 
 flow of water from, 190. 
 
 flowers of, 190. 
 
 forests of, 187, 188. 
 
 fossil forests of, 177-180, 263. 
 
 friends of, 281. 
 
 funds for. 128. 
 
 game in, 134, 181-4. 207. 
 
 geographical names in, 108, 285-6. 
 
 geology of, 156. 
 
 Glacial Epoch in, 158. 
 
 healthfulness of, 199. 
 
 hostility to, vi, 267, 269. 
 
 hotel system of, 204. 
 
 hot springs of, 172-5. 
 
 Indian knowledge of. See "Indian." 
 
 lakes of the, 151. 
 
 laws for, 127. 
 
 leases in, 141, 207. 
 
 mineral springs of, 199. 
 
 mountain systems of, 151-2. 
 
 nature of country in, 16, 17. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Nez Perce 
 incursion into, 117, 123, 215. 
 
 petrifactions in, 56, 179. 
 
 plateaus of, 153. 
 
 private interests and, 280. 
 
 Protective Act, 110, 141. 
 
 public business in, 139. 
 
 railroads and. See Railroads. 
 
 rhyolitic rocks in, 157. 
 
 road system of, 201. 
 
 rules and regulations for, 354. 
 
 scenery of, 155, 197, 209, 260. 
 
 schemes to destroy, 268. 
 
 season for tour of, 210. 
 
 seasons of, 199. 
 
 snow in, 193. 
 
 snow-shoe traveling in, 194-6. 
 
 source of great rivers near, 188. 
 
 stage rides through the, 277. 
 
 Superintendents of, 206-7, 359. 
 
 Tertiary Period in, 156. 
 
 thermal springs of, 161. 
 
 tour of, 210, et seq. 
 
 tourist transportation in, 204. 
 
 trees of, 187. 
 
 valleys of, 153. 
 
 vandalism in, 207. 
 
 visitors to, in 1883, 107. 
 
 volcanic rocfcs in, 157. 
 
 water falls of, 324. 
 
 winter in, 193, 197, 198. 
 
 winter journeys through, 108. 
 Yellowstone Park Association, 140. 
 Yellowstone Park Improvement Com- 
 pany, 132, 139, 140. 
 Yellowstone River, 149, 250, 256. 
 
 bridge over, 203. 
 
 color of banks, 5, 6. 
 
 flow of, 150. 
 
 fords, 26, 249, 261. 
 
 Great Bend of, 6, 43. 
 
 junction of, with Gardiner, 211. 
 
 navigation of, 203. 
 
 source of, 2, 188. 
 
 Yosemite Wonderland, 90, 94, 97, 253. 
 Young Hopeful, 225. 
 Yount Peak, source of the Y. River, 2, 
 149. 
 
 Zillah, The, tourist boat on Y. Lake, 336.